Under five reigns

' CORNELL
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Cornell University Library
DA 565.N52A5 1910

Under five reigns /

3 1924 028 344 319

The original of tliis book is in
tlie Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

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UNDER FIVE REIGNS

A PAGE FROM THE PAST

UNDER FIVE REIGNS

BY

LADY DOROTHY NEVILL

V ')-VXV BV HER SON

W'T2! 'ii.rTRSJt !'J.03T«JITJOKS

FOURTH EDITION

METHUEN & CO. LTD.

1 * E -'> S \i \ S T R E E 1 W.C.
I ON DON

UNDER FIVE REIGNS

BY

LADY DOROTHY NEVILL

EDITED BY HER SON

WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS

FOURTH EDITION

METHUEN & CO. LTD.

36 ESSEX STREET W.C.

LONDON

First Puhltsked . . . Sepiemder zsnd igio

Second Edition . . . September 28th igro

Third Edition . . October 6th 1910

Fourth Edition . . . October igio

INTRODUCTORY NOTE

THIS volume has been written in the hope that
it may prove of interest to the many readers
who welcomed my Reminiscences published
four years ago.

Since that time I have come across further notes
and letters connected with the social life of the
Victorian and Edwardian eras, a number of which
it seemed to me might not prove unacceptable to
that indulgent public which accorded my previous
effort such an encouraging and kindly reception.

CONTENTS

Old days in Dorsetshire — Children of the past — Amateur
authors — Sir John Mitchel— Mr. Bellendon Ker —
Coaching dajre — ^Puddletown Church — Ruthless re-
storation — Election humour — ^A cool tailor — ^The
butler's mistake — ^Anecdotes — Old country life — ^The
" Grand Duke " — Old-fashioned Radicalism — Political
turncoats — ^The Peerage — "L'appetit vient en
mangeant " . . . . . . i

II

The last post-boy — ^The Derby Dilly — Steam packets —
TraveUing abroad — A silent duke — Pretty customs —
— Picturesque Bavaria — An appropriate punishment
— ^Anecdotes — An unfortunate inscription — ^Thiers
and his schoolmaster — Prince Demidofi — "The
common lot " — Lady Strachan's villa — Rome under
Papal rule — II Conde Halifato ... 34

III

The cult of gardens — ^A sensible baiUfi — Old Hampshire
ways — Cardinal Manning — Bishop Wilberforce — ^His
son — ^Mr. Cobden — Letters — A scandal about Lord
Palmerston — Samuel Warren — Letter " franks " —
Dicky Doyle — Some unpublished drawings — Geology
and botany — Digging for the ipfinite — ^Mr. Edmund
Gosse — Letters from Mr. Darwin . . -79

IV

A South African letter — Australian Walpoles — A link
with the past — Old days in Sussex — Deal luggers
and Hastings Gospel ships — Sussex pigs — Black sheep

viii UNDER FIVE REIGNS

PAGE

; — Mormonism in Sussex — ^Trugs — A romantic relic —
Chicken-fatting— The last carrier's cart— Shingling
— ^The convent at Mayfield . • ■ • "3

The conquest of the West End— Two favourite topics^
Thi "Smart set" — Its Characteristics — ^The social
life of to-day — Successful financiers — Anecdotes —
Bibulous butlers— The end of " Society " — Prominent
figures — Conversationalists — General Gallifet — Un-
changing woman — Lady Cardigan and her Recollec-
tions—Lord Ward — Maria, Marchioness of Ailesbury —
Anecdotes of social celebrities .... 140

VI

The uses of the season — Extravagance of the Present
compared with the Past — Pleasant dinner givers —
Lord St. Heliers — ^Lord Russell of KiUowen — ^Mr.Choate
— Lord James — Invercauld — A real harvest home
— Some friends — Anecdotes — ^Two great soldiers^-
Sir Henry Wolff— Dr. Wolfi— Anecdotes . .172

VII

PoUtical friends — Lord Iddesleigh — Mr. Chamberlain —
Letters — ^His charming wife — Lady Chesterfield —
Mr. Bright — Victorian Radicalism — Two great leaders
— ^Lord Beaconsfield — Letters — ^Mrs, Brydges WiUyams
— Favourite flowers — Lord Sherbrooke — Mr. John
Bums — Sir George Dibbs .... 205

VIII

Some clever Victorians — Thackeray — The first Lord
Lytton. — His son — Letters — Muscovite Russia — ^Lady
Dorchester — Lord Lovelace — Anecdotes — Matthew
Arnold — Renan's quotation — Ouida^-Her letters^
Recollections of plays and players — La Grande Duchesse
— Mario — A forgetful composer — A graceful tribute to
the memory of Madame Sontag . . . 237

CONTENTS ix

IX

PAGB

Horace Walpole's opera ticket — Mr. Montagu Guest —
Print collectors — ^A wanted museum — Unconsidered
trifles — Lord Clanricarde — The late Mr. Salting — A
Sussex gentleman — Some well-known judges of art
— Old glass — Anecdotes — ^Mr. Whistler — Victorian
art — A real Red Lion Square — A discouraging
sweep — Itahan image-men .... 280

X

A relic of Queen Victoria — Old cards and menus — Anec-
dotes—My sister. Lady Pollington — The Aerhedon —
Boring the Admiralty — Changes of last sixty years —
Pekinese dogs — A bored Pasha — English Burgundy —
Lord Wemyss — Blue coats and brass buttons — Lord
Brougham's trousers — Shawls and crinolines — ^Lady
Charlotte Lyster — Some old letters — Llandrindod in
1 8 13 — Setting out for the wars — ^A Pedagogue's epistle
— Under five reigns — Conclusion . . . 306

Index . .... . . . 351

viii UNDER FIVE REIGNS

PAGE

— Mormonism in Sussex — Trngs — ^A romantic relic —
Chicken-fatting — ^The last carrier's cart — Shingling
— ^The convent at Mayfield . . • • "S

The conquest of the West End — Two favourite topics —
Th6 " Smart set " — Its Characteristics — ^The social
life of to-day — Successful financiers — ^Anecdotes —
Bibulous butlers — ^The end of " Society " — Prominent
figures — Conversationalists — General Gallifet — Un-
changing woman — Lady Cardigan and her Recollec-
tions — Lord Ward — Maria, Marchioness of Ailesbury —
Anecdotes of social celebrities .... 140

VI

The uses of the season — Extravagance of the Present
compared with the Past — Pleasant dinner givers —
Lord St. HeUers — Lord Russell of Killowen — ^Mr.Choate
— Lord James — Invercauld — A real harvest home
— Some friends — Anecdotes — Two great soldiers —
Sir Henry Wolff— -Dr. Wolfi— Anecdotes . . 172

VII

Pohtical friends — Lord Iddesleigh — ^Mr. Chamberlain —
Letters — His charming wife — ^Lady Chesterfield —
Mr. Bright — Victorian Radicalism — ^Two great leaders
— ^Lord Beaconsfield — ^Letters — ^Mrs. Brydges WiUyams
— Favourite flowers — Lord Sherbrooke— Mr. John
Bums — Sir George Dibbs .... 205

VIII

Some clever Victorians — Thackeray — The first Lord
Lytton — His son — ^Letters — ^Muscovite Russia — ^Lady
Dorchester — Lord Lovelace — Anecdotes — Matthew
Arnold — ^Renan's quotation — Ouida — ^Her letters —
Recollections of plays and players — La Grande Duchesse
— Mario — A forgetful composer — A graceful tribute to
the memory of Madame Sontag . . . 237

CONTENTS ix

IX

PAGB

Horace Walpole's opera ticket — Mr. Montagu Guest —
Print collectors — A wanted museum — ^Unconsidered
trifles — Lord Clanricarde — ^The late Mr. Salting — A
Sussex gentleman — Some well-known judges of art
— Old glass — Anecdotes — ^Mr. Whistler — Victorian
art — A real Red Lion Square — A discouraging
sweep — Italian image-men .... 280

X

A relic of Queen Victoria — Old cards and menus — ^Anec-
dotes — My sister, Lady Pollington — ^The Aerhedon —
Boring the Admiralty — Changes of last sixty years —
Pekinese dogs — ^A bored Pasha — EngUsh Burgundy —
Lord Wemyss — Blue coats and brass buttons — Lord
Brougham's trousers — Shawls and crinolines — ^Lady
Charlotte Lyster — Some old letters — Llandrindod in
1 81 3 — Setting out for the wars — A Pedagogue's epistle
— Under five reigns — Conclusion . . . 306

Index

351

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Page from the Past

Taken from one of Lady Dorothy Nevill's Albums

Reginald Nevill

From a Water-Colour Sketch made at Eiidge in 1814

Letter from Mr. George Cadogan

Letter from Richard Doyle
Sketches by Richard Doyle

Frontispiece

FACING PAGB
• 36

74

94
100
108
112
122

Memorial to Mrs, Atkyns in Ketteringham Church .

Two OF the Old School (the Second Duke of Welling-
ton AND Lord Leconfield) . . . .190

Mr. Chamberlain and his Grandson, Xmas 1908 . 212

Lord Beaconsfield as a Young Man . . .222

Lady Dorothy Nevill and Mr. John Burns at the

Opening of the Victoria and Albert Museum . 234
(By permission of The Taller)

Lady Dorothy Nevill in 1865 . . . -336

UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Old days in Dorsetshire — Children of the past — Amateur
authors — Sir John Mitchel — Mr. BeUendon Ker — Coaching days
— Puddletown Church — Ruthless restoration — Election humour

— A cool tailor — The butler's mistake — Anecdotes — Old
country life — The "Grand Duke" — Old-fashioned Radicalism

— Political turncoats — The Peerage — " L'appetit vient en
mangeant."

MUCH of my childhood was spent in Dorset-
shire, at Ilsington House, a fine old place,
with a porch and walls on each side down
to the road. The Walpoles had long owned this
estate, though they had seen very little of it. For
years before we went to live there it had been let to
a General Garth — a great friend of King George iii,
and here was brought up the General's adopted son,
Thomas Garth, of sporting celebrity.

Those were the days when bad taste reigned
supreme — poor satin-wood furniture enjoyed a great
vogue. There was a great upholsterer, called
Dowbiggin, who must have profited hugely by this,
for most of the splendid old furniture in number-
less country houses was either consigned to the
attics or sold, its place being taken by tasteless

2 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

satin-wood suites. My father shared the prevailing
craze, though he abstained from discarding some
very beautiful French tapestry chairs and sofas at
Wolterton, our Norfolk home. Well do I remember
pondering over the designs from ^Esop's Fables
which ornamented the seats and backs. This was
the suite"which fetched some six thousand guineas
at the Amherst sale last year — Lord Amherst had
bought it at my father's death about fifty
years ago for something under five hundred
pounds.

At Ilsington my father conducted his operations
in much the same way as in Norfolk, but there he
could not do. so much harm, as, with the exception
of three magnificent pieces of tapestry, there was
little of value to discard. Eventually, however, he
did remove these tapestries, evidently designed for
the room in which they hung, to Norfolk. They
are now, I must add, in the possession of Colonel
Walpole, of Heckfield Place, Hants. EmbeUished
with an ornate border, and bearing the Walpole
arms, the designs represent various phases of
the battle of Solebay, the ships engaged in that
sea-fight being most artistically depicted. These
tapestries are English, and, I beheve, were woven
at Mortlake, being signed Poyntz, as is a similar
piece of tapestry, which does not bear the Walpole
arms, at Hampton Court. This latter piece, I may
add, is the only other tapestry of this kind of which
I have ever heard.

Ilsington had once been famous for its many
gardens, but as I remember the place as a child,

ILSINGTON 3

there was but one dear little garden surrounded by
a box hedge. The estate, together with another
at Heanton, in Devonshire — sold long ago — had
come into our family through a marriage with
Baroness Clinton and Trefusis, and had been rather
neglected by the Walpoles, who were always more
attached to Norfolk. The eccentric Lord Orford,
who sold the Houghton gallery, never saw his
property in Devonshire at all — he did once deter-
mine to make an expedition to these domains, and
ordered his seats in the West country to be aired
and prepared for his reception, his lawyer, Lucas,
being dispatched to notify his arrival and invite
the neighbouring gentry to the ceremony of in-
auguration. Lord Orford himself followed, but
never got any farther than the town of Puddletown,
where he changed his mind and returned to his
favourite abode, a parsonage hovel in the fens at
CrisweU, in Suffolk. The Devonshire property ceased
to belong tb our family long ago, but Lady Chnton
told me that relics of the Walpoles, in the shape
of coats of arms and the like, stiU remain there.
Ilsington my brother sold to the late Mr. Br5mier,
and so ended our connection with a county which
has always been very dear to me.

My brother parted with this property for no
pressing reason. He did not share my sentimental
attachment to the place. As a matter of fact, not a
few owners of old domains seem to set less value
upon the associations connected with them than is
generally supposed. Many even, when forced to
sell, bear the loss of their ancestral acres with

4 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

considerable fortitude. Perhaps, as was once wittily
said, they have a lively sense of how little they have
done for their estates, and in consequence part with
them with a proportionate degree of indifference.

Our main amusements at Ilsington consisted in
long and delightful rides, which my sister and I
took with my father all over the lovely wild
country, as it was in those far-away days before
it had been defiled by horrible villas and worse
cottages — lovely breezy rides they were, and fuU
of interest to us children, who loved to explore
the spots frequented by smugglers in the good old
days.

How beautiful Dorsetshire seemed to us, with
its breezy commons and heaths purpled over with
the bloom of the heather, or shining with the
golden blossoms of that English furze, before
which Linnaeus fell down in admiration on his
knees, when he first beheld what had been to
him an unknown plant, " to thank God for its
beauty."

One of our greatest pleasures, I remember, was
to ride over to Frampton, a charming old house,
formerly belonging to Sir Colquhoun Grant, whose
only daughter had married Mr. Sheridan. The
latter, a most delightful, courtly-mannered man,
was the brother of the three beautiful sisters who
became the Duchess of Somerset, Lady Dufferin,
and Mrs. Norton, all three of them most gifted
women.

Children at that time were kept in great order,
and generally forbidden to do an5rthing they par-

SEVENTY YEARS AGO 5

ticularly liked — more, I think, on general principle
than for any sufficient reason. Their books were
then of a totally different sort from those of to-day ;
most of them contained poetry, or rather versifica-
tion, inculcating good behaviour, especially with
regard to that moderation which childhood usually,
and perhaps not unnaturally, abominates. The
highly salutary precepts enjoined in books such as
Mrs. Turner's Cautionary Stones, were in great
favour with parents. Some of the lines in this
volume with regard to gluttony are highly char-
acteristic of infantile education as it was understood
in the past —

" Mamma, why mayn't I, when I dine.
Eat ham and goose, and drink port wine ?
And why mayn't I, as well as you,
Eat pudding, soup, and mutton, too ? "

Then comes the quiet dignity of the reply —

" Because, my dear, it is not right.
To spoil the youthful appetite."

The daily Ufe of a chUd seventy years ago or so
was of a far simpler description than at present,
when even quite small children are in something
of touch with public events. UnUke the young
people of to-day, who regard their elders with good-
humoured toleration, if not with a feeling of positive
superiority, we stood in awe of our older relatives ;
as for our parents, their wishes were regarded more
or less as irrevocable decrees.

My father was an autocrat, whose rule over his
family was absolutely unquestioned. Well do I

6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

remember how, at breakfast (which all of us were
always expected to attend), my mother would on
certain days catch my eye and significantly look
down at her plate where her knife and fork had been
carefully crossed — a sign to the family that its
head was*in no mood for conversation. My father,
though a most good-natured man, was at times
easily roused to temporary fury by anything which
clashed with his mood. How angry he got, for
instance, when Sir John Mitchel (a neighbour of ours
in Dorsetshire, and married to our cousin) sug-
gested that he should purchase a copy of a historical
novel which he had just published, Henry of Mon-
mouth, or the Field of Agincourt. It was in three
volumes, which cost a guinea and a half, a price
which aroused in my father the most excessive
expressions of indignation. In those days amateur
authors, who wrote books, did all they could to
seU them amongst their friends, who were, much
to their disgust, coerced into bupng them. At
Ilsington we used to see something of a Mr.
Bellendon Ker, who in 1837 pubhshed a work
which Lord Brougham described as being either
a dream or a miracle. Mr. Ker, though a most
amiable and good-natured man, was from a social
point of view something of an infliction, for he was
so deaf that it was painful to converse with him.
However, this disturbed him little, for what he
liked best was for others to sit and listen. One of
his favourite theories was that aU Dr. Johnson's
derivations were wrong, and that in consequence of
his researches an entirely new dictionary of the

A LOVER OF THE TURF 7

English language must be written. He also made
considerable researches into the history of nursery
rhymes, as to the origin of which he held some very
original theories.

Though fond of everything connected with his
estates, my father cared little for a rural existence.
He was full of superabundant nervous energy, which
found httle outlet in the country, and therefore took
the form of house alteration, building, or cutting
down or planting trees — he was never at rest. A
great deal of his time, when not engaged in carrying
out some new plan, was passed with my sister and
myself — his babies, as he called us — with whom he
constantly went for long rides, and whose studies he
supervised — a somewhat queer occupation for one
whose principal interest really lay in the racehorses
which proved so disastrous to his pocket. His
thoughts were always running on the turf, and
pleading some excuse or other, he would, fuU of
eagerness, dash off by the coach on his way to London
and to Newmarket, the ever-delusive Mecca of his
dreams. Here, as a general rule, alas ! his race-
horses failed to win. This, however, he bore with
cheerful equanimity, though at times he had very
bad luck, being second in a great many races. So
much so was this the case, that when one of his
horses did win a big race, he made the remark,
"I see I am out of my place." This cheerfulness
about his horses was, however, more conspicuous
abroad than at home, and his love of the Turf
caused us aU some very gloomy moments — in
fact, so vivid are my recollections of the unpleasant

8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

impressions produced by his racing defeats, that I
have ever since retained a great dislike for this
very costly sport, which has been the ruin of so
many old families. My father, I must add, owing
to the vivacious originality of his disposition, did
not give hipiself the best possible chance of proving
a successful owner. At times he would even go so
far as to run his horses when they were quite out
of condition, whilst, when in the mood, he would
back very indifferent animals, provided they were
his own, for sums quite out of proportion to their
chance of winning. Nevertheless, he had his
occasional triumphs — he won one or two classic
races, and was only just beaten for the Derby.

Like most people fond of excitement he took
care not to remain in the country for any length
of time, though he thought it an admirable place
for his famUy. In spite of the failings I have
described we were devoted to him, and looked for-
ward to his coming. How carefully we studied
the time of the Magnet coach's arrival in order to
rush across the fields to greet him ! At that time
the glories of the road had not entirely departed,
though coach proprietors had ceased to make large
sums of money, as in the days when the old Wey-
mouth Union left London at three o'clock in the
afternoon and snailed it down to Weymouth at
three the next day, a rate of progression which
caused the stock to last for years. At one time
a stage or two of a coach was a regular little
fortune, and it was notorious that a certain
Mayor on the Western Road got about forty

GORGEOUS DRAGOONS 9

miles of an old coach's journey as his wife's
dowry.

My father was very unconventional in his ways,
and never troubled to move his household during
the constant alterations which he Uked making
in his country houses. At Ilsington he set afoot
a veritable internal reconstruction, and took away
all the old windows, through the unglazed frames
of which the wind used to blow clouds of dust.
The only reception room for a time was our school-
room, and here he received Colonel Chatterton
and his wife, who came over from Dorchester, where
the former commanded the 6th Dragoon Guards
(now the Carbineers). The gallant soldier in ques-
tion must have been considerably astonished at
the sort of house to which a noble Earl invited
them. Well do I remember how delighted we
children were when we rode into the old Dorset-
shire town to see the red coats of the soldiers, for
in those days (1836) these Dragoons were not dressed
in blue, which they only assumed some twenty
years later for the purpose, it was said, of putting
money into the pockets of some mihtary tailor
who managed to influence the authorities. The
of&cers' fuU dress at that time was gorgeous — huge
golden epaulettes and crested Roman helmets.
It is sad to think that of all these magnificent
warriors who so pleased my childish eyes not one
can be alive now.

The neighbourhood round Ilsington was very
primitive in its ways at that time, many of the
villagers being employed in the button industry —

10 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

"buttony," of which I spoke in my former volume.
Within recent years some attempt has, I believe,
been made to revive button-making near Bland-
ford, but the modem hand-made buttons cannot,
of course, be compared with the old ones produced
by workerg who were carrying on artistic traditions
bequeathed to them by their ancestors of hundreds
of years ago.

Not very far from Ilsington is the quaint old
town of Puddletown, which, I believe, took its name
from the de Pydeles, one of those Norman families
which came into England with the Conqueror.
The church is particularly interesting, being one
of the very few imrestored ones in Dorsetshire — a.
county which has suffered terribly at the hands of
the restorer.

But a short time ago I was pained to hear a
rumour that this dear old church, with its old-
fashioned oak seating and pews (in one of which,
belonging to Ilsington House, I sat as a child
over seventy years ago), was about to undergo
restoration, and I trembled for the quaint gallery
bearing the Royal arms in which, as I perfectly
remember, sat the village talent which contributed
the music. I was, however, somewhat relieved to
learn that the proposed alterations were to consist
merely in the prolongation of the chancel and side
aisle to their (supposed) original length. The
ancient interior fittings, I was told, would be left
practically tmtouched, whilst the sounding-board
which was formerly suspended over the pulpit is
to be replaced. At the time I am writing I have

THE RUTHLESS RESTORER ii

still some hope that the hand of the restorer may be
altogether stayed — amongst others my friend Sir
Frederick Treves, the author of a most delightful
book about Dorsetshire, has publicly protested
against what seems in reaUty to be an uncalled-for
alteration. How much harm, alas ! has been done
to English village churches by weU-meaning people,
only too frequently clergymen, animated by the
desire of setting their mark upon some ancient
building, where the handiwork of successive genera-
tions conveyed the impression of an unbroken
continuity.

If only because Puddletown Church is the church
of Mr. Hardy's Far from the Madding Crowd, it
should be left untouched.

Nothing is more deplorable than the havoc
which has been wrought by restorers upon village
churches, and as a rule they have been absolutely
ruthless as regards the quaint old inscriptions,
many of them no doubt the work of an unlettered
muse, which nevertheless possessed an old-world
charm of their own which caught the attention
and perhaps served their purpose of teaching the
rustic moralist to die. ,

There is indeed much truth in the saying that
when the restorer comes in by the door good taste
and sense generally fly out of the window.

Restorations generally entail the destruction of
much that recalls the life of the past ; too often,
indeed, woodwork of the highest artistic value is
ruthlessly discarded, — witness the case of the fine
panelling in the Winchester College Chapel, which

12 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

some thirty years ago was ruthlessly discarded in
favour of modern so-called Gothic work. The fine
old panelling in question is now one of the principal
art treasures of Hursley Park, not very many miles
away from Winchester. The memory of the
vandahsm. displayed by the College authorities in
this matter should be kept green as a warning to
all restorers.

In Puddletown Church is the tomb of the last
of the Martins, a family founded by " Martin of
Tours/' which occupies the south-west corner of
the chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, known as the
Athelhampton aisle. Within recent years the chapel
in question^ which had been sadly neglected by
successive generations, has been once again placed
in thorough repair by the owner of Athelhampton
Hall, Mr. de La Fontaine, who has enriched it by
a beautiful window of stained glass. The tomb
of Nicholas Martin, with its three monkeys or
" martins segeant," bears this epitaph, " Nicholas
ye first and Martin ye last. Good-night, Nicholas."
A somewhat humorous but sad contrast to the
pious inscription on the brass to an earlier member
of the family.

Churches are often restored in memory of some
celebrated person who attended service there, the
main object, as a rule, seemingly being to obliterate
everything connected with the individual somewhat
dubiously honoured. Thus St. Nicholas's Church,
Brighton, was entirely transformed in memory of the
great Duke of Wellington, and the church at Burn-
ham Thorpe presents quite a different appearance

A PICTURESQUE MANSION 13

to that which it did in Nelson's day. In most cases
the very pew in which some celebrated individual sat
has been cut down or removed — surely a strange and
inappropriate way of honouring the illustrious dead ?

Athelhampton Hall, not very far away (now,
owing to its owner's good taste, again one of the
most picturesque and beautiful houses in Dorset-
shire), was for a time the property of the fifth Earl
of Mornington, great-nephew of the " Iron Duke."
This house, it is curious to note, has only changed
hands three times through purchase since it was
built at the end of the fifteenth century. As a
child I remember it a deserted and seemingly ruined
building used as a farm. The garden was a wilder-
ness, through which cattle roamed right up to the
door. The whole of the ancient structure, however,
was then in existence, and as lately as the year
1862 the house and quadrangles seem to have
remained practically untouched. In that year,
however, the chapel gatehouse, together with the
enclosing walls of the two front quadrangles, and
part of the house were pulled down — the present
stables being built from the stones of the gatehouse.

During my childhood at Ilsington the vicar of
Puddletown was of the fox-hunting sort, quite
different to the modern conception of a clergyman.
He was popular enough with his parishioners,
though I suspect he never saw half of them tiU
they came up to be buried.

Country Ufe was very different in those days.
The whole time and attention of the country
gentry and farmers were absorbed in local affairs.

14 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

to them a source of pleasure as weU as of profit.
It was a prosperous period, and the leisure which
prosperity engendered had not yet begun to give
that taste for luxuries which is such a feature of
the present age. The men fished, shot, hunted,
raised and sold stock, sowed and reaped, and in
their own " way looked after their f amiUes ; this,
with a little parish business, and an occasional
county election, made up their life. On the whole,
though party feeling ran high, faint interest was
taken in pohtics as compared with now. Elections,
however, were lively enough, so hvely, indeed, that
they often degenerated into a sort of saturnalia.

The rough humour which was such a prominent
feature of old-time elections is how more or less a
thing of the past, politics being taken more seriously
than of yore. Occasionally, however, a humorous
incident enlivens party warfare. We have all heard
of the old lady who, attending a funeral, and being
told Mr. Gladstone was present, said, " Oh, I do
hope he won't make a disturbance ! "

At Ipswich during the present elections (January
igro) curiously enough an old lady also distinguished
herself in somewhat the same way. Great crowds
having assembled, she was convinced that this was
caused by the opening of the Quarter Sessions.

" They are only waiting for Mr. Balfour," said
an acquaintance.

" WeU," rephed she, " I suppose if the poor man
has done anything wrong he'll have to suffer for
it now."

Great famihes used formerly to regard certain

THE INDIVIDUALISM OF THE PAST 15

seats in Parliament almost as their own property,
and Peers often forced their eldest sons into politics
against their wiU.

Directly my father determined that my eldest
brother should stand for the division of Norfolk
over which he exerted considerable political in^
fluence, the latter wrote from Dresden, where he
then was, that Ulness prevented his return to
England. This caused considerable annoyance to
an impatient electorate, anxious to catch a glimpse
of their new member, who, himself hating politics,
was not at all eager to see them. My brother was
not the only unwilling aspirant for parliamentary
honours. At that time the sons of peers were
often practically forced to stand by their fathers
for constituencies which they had never visited,
for which reason the Tories were often twitted by
the Whigs for electing, what they called, " in-
visible members."

Such men of the people who took any serious
interest in political matters were generally self-
educated — strong, rugged individuals, personalities
of which the type has to-day become extinct.
When the State left children to themselves — and a
great many parents followed the example of the
State — there was, no doubt, a great deal of ignorance
and a large tract of brain lay fallow. Here and
there, however, as if to compensate for this, a
boy or man took the work into his own hands, and
educated himself; and of aU modes of education
this, if not the best, is the most fruitful in results.
The spirit of the age favoured individualism

i6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

far more than is the case to-day, and independence
of character was to be found amongst every class.

A conspicuous example of this was the tailoi
who, after a great pohtical meeting in a country
town, pushed his way up to Sir WiHiam Harcourl
and Mr. CardweU, both of whom had for some
reason exhibited nervousness in the course of their
speeches, and said^

" You thought too 'ighly of 'em, gentlemen.
When I speaks to such a crowd, I treats them just
as so many cabbage stalks."

The landowners in Dorsetshire lived on very
pleasant terms with the peasantry in old days,
and mutual sympathy prevailed, which is now,
I fear, somewhat rare. Only a short time ago I
heard that the present owner of a certain country
house had created a most unfavourable impression
in the district. In former days a number of aged
women of the village close by were allowed, after a
storm, to collect the wood and sticks which had been
blown down in the garden. This kindly permission
has now been revoked, and when, after a gale,
the aged dames arrived according to custom,
they were roughly ordered away by the new squire,
who declared that he was not going to have any
widows on his lawn. It is by acts such as this
that socialists are created, and the good feeUng
formerly prevailing between landlord and tenant
destroyed.

There was a good deal of originality, which
sometimes merged into eccentricity, amongst the
county gentlemen of the Victorian Age. One of

A BUTLER'S MISTAKE 17

these, an old baronet, noted for his contempt of
convention, arrived from a visit to London one
autumn evening to find that the temperature was
distinctly low. Seized with a bright idea, he bade
the coachman, who had come to meet him in a dog-
cart, take off his livery greatcoat, which the baronet
put on, and drove off, the coachman being told
to remain in the waiting-room tiU the trap and his
greatcoat were sent back to fetch him. Arrived
at his mansion, the owner, who, it should be added,
had on a top-hat, was greeted by the butler at the
door with "Well, what have you done with the
old devil ? I suppose he's missed the train." " I
am the old devil," was the reply, " and you go
to-morrow." Knowing the pompous character of
the baronet, the incident amused me very much —
a good deal more than it did a friend of mine, a
rather straitlaced peer, at whose luncheon table
I once mentioned it, with the result that my host
and his family seemed very shocked — the only
person, indeed, who showed any signs of amusement
was the French governess, whose eyes twinkled as,
following the example of her very-weU-brought-up
charges, she looked down at her plate.

There were many queer characters v^ho lived
in the country in those days, and some of the in-
dividuals who had, owing to their worldly means,
contrived to push through the barriers with which
at that time the aristocracy still fenced themselves
in, were absurdly pompous. Such an one was a
certain landowner who, himself of plebeian descent,
had married the daughter of a peer — he was so
2

i8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

proud of this that he made it an invariable rule to

speak of his wife as Lady . If a neighbour

asked him, " How's your wife ? " it was weU known

that the reply would be, " Lady , I thank you,

is in perfect health," or " Lady , I thank you,

is shghtly indisposed," as the case might be; but
one thing* was certain, he would never speak of her
as " she" or " my wife," for her title was sacrosanct
to this gentleman, who was a good deal of a dandy,
always wearing lavender kid gloves and rather
affecting to despise country ways and habits, for
which reason the countryside was vastly amused at
a great rebuff which he received.

Having business to transact in the local town,
this gentleman deigned to take lunch at the local
hostelry, an old inn presided over by a landlord
of considerable character, who was by no means
prepared to regard this visit as the great conde-
scension which his fine visitor considered it to be.

Drawing off his lavender gloves he somewhat
disparagingly surveyed the room, and after a few
inquiries for dishes which could not be provided,
ordered a pint of wine and a chop. When, how-
ever, this arrived he found it anything but to his
taste, and, sending for the landlord, told him it was
execrable. The latter, who was in no way impressed
by his guest, declared that aU the local squires had
lunched at his inn, and were satisfied with what was
served to them. " As, however," he added, " you
don't appear to like our cooking, and kick up such
a fuss about this chop, I shan't charge you anything
— I make you a present of it."

OLD-WORLD WAYS 19

Completely horrified at the man's assurance, the
visitor was about to make a dignified reply, when,
to his horror, a bumptious old waiter entered and
said, " Your missus 'as called for you," an an-
nouncement which filled the poor dandy's cup of
sorrow to the brim.

In the vanished past, not only did all classes
below the highest aristocracy mix and mingle much
more easily than they do now, but the trading
classes in country towns, at least, and the working
class approached very closely to each other, an
association which is unheard of at the present day.
There was, indeed, no great social gap between a
weU-to-do merchant and his housemaid or shop
boys. They all dined together in the kitchen, and
often passed the evening in the same apartment.
The middle class in the country had not yet taken
that upward bound which has carried it to the very
top of the tree, and the labouring classes had not yet
begun a descent which has brought the great mass
of them to a condition perpetually verging upon
pauperism. The old-fashioned agricultural labourer,
though receiving a very scant wage, lived happily
enough — ^his wants were few, and landlords were kind
to him in many small ways, which were highly
appreciated. A number of these labourers working
for small farmers were fed in the houses of their
employers, who were not much superior to them in
manners or in education. It was the period,
perhaps, when the relations of the farmer and the
labourer were closest to each other. The time was
yet to come when they were to drift into the present

20 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

condition of latent antagonism. The farmer of
to-day has a hard struggle to maintain his position,
and the more enterprising spirits eventually relin-
quish agriculture for some more profitable calling
which enables them to rise in the social scale. The
agricultural labourer, on the other hand, tends to
sink into apathetic pauperism, for he has little chance
of laying by a sufficiency for his old age, though
in recent times his wages have become larger, whilst
the conditions of his existence have been greatly
improved.

Many things, however, have occurred to make
him discontented with his lot, and the hfe of cities
attracts him as a candle does a moth.

Formerly the countryman rather despised town
life, and owing to various causes his existence was
more satisf3dng than it is to-day, when the unexciting
news of the countryside has ceased to arouse
anything but a languid interest amongst the well-
to-do. Every Httle country town was formerly a
real centre of vitality, and its shops did a thriving
business, which enabled their owners to live and die
weU assured of their own and their children's
moderate prosperity. In a great measure, of course,
they depended upon the local gentry for support,
who in turn depended upon the land. To-day the
local gentry, when able to reside on their estates,
procure most of their supplies from the huge
emporiums in town, and the village shops generally
find considerable difficulty in maintaining a mere
existence. Many of these modest establishments
had passed for generations from father to son, bi;t

AN OLD LETTER 21

this state of affairs, except in rare instances, has also
ceased, for young men of intelligence are naturally
eager to go out into the world and attempt to snatch
a prize from the lucky-bag of urban toil and excite-
ment.

In the thirties and forties of the last century
there was a good deal of poverty amongst the
labouring classes. The following letter, written to
my mother-in-law about 1839, touches on this
question, and suggests a remedy which a certain
number of landed proprietors were already trying
to adopt —

AsHGROVE Cottage
February 25th

Your letters are always most welcome to me,
dear Mrs. NeviU, as they never fail assuring me of
his Lordship's good health, which we drank last
Thursday, I don't doubt in unison with many who
must be praying for its longest possible continuance.
Certainly there are few whose power extends so far
and wide as Lord Abergavenny, in employing great
numbers of people upon his estates, but if aU Pro-
prietors of Land would do the same in Proportion
we should not be stunned by such lives of poverty
as at present, and which I fear are in general but
too weU founded. At the same time I am always
sorry to read our neighbour. Lord Stanhope's,
inflammatory speeches on the subject, which are
indiscreet and dangerous. His temper is so violent,
that if he begins right he is sure to end wrong.
We had a letter from his Lady a while ago to
announce their Expectation of an Heir Lady Mahon

22 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

is in the way to produce, which they have been in
anxious Hopes and Fears about for some time.
People are looking out now for Lord Essex's marriage
with Miss Stephens which has been so long pre-
dicted and they say will certainly take place.
If she shduld produce him an Heir it will be a terrible
Blow upon the Capels. I saw him last year at
Cashiobury and he really does not appear as old
as the Peerage makes him by a dozen years at least.
Miss Stephens was staying in the House. She has
very pretty pleasing Manners and I daresay has
good sense enough to make her way very well in
the great World. Lord Essex was very kind to my
poor crazy Cousin Sir John Lade, and particularly
so in helping forward his Petition for a Continuation
of his Pension, which he was in the utmost Anxiety
about the last Time I saw him in Town just before
I came here the End of October and both Lord
Anglesea and Lord Sefton were always kind Friends
to him.

Poor Creature, his Case indeed was truly de-
plorable ! Reduced by Vice and FoUy to a state of
actual Poverty, for the last five-and-twenty years
of his Life, or even more — after coming into the
World with a Strength of Constitution and a Splendor
of Fortune that it took nearly sixty years of his mad
Career to destroy ! This very severe Winter has
carried off a great many in delicate Health, both of
young and old,

Henry, Earl of Abergavenny, spoken of in this
letter, was a weU-known character in Sussex. As

THE " GRAND DUKE " 23

an old man he seldom left the precincts of Eridge
Park, and when he drove out did so in the old style
of a coach and four. A confirmed valetudinarian, he
was nevertheless of autocratic character, which had
procured him the nickname of the "Grand Duke."
He thoroughly realised the responsibilities which a
large landowner should undertake, and took the
greatest interest in the affairs of the country, as
the following, written by a cousin, Mr. Edward
Walpole, shows —

You did not teU me on what day the Ash-
burnham dinner was to take place. I am well
pleased, for the credit of the Grand Duke, that he
screwed up his courage to send the invitation,
tho' as we say at the theatre, on a very short
notice, because, as he has ridden the race over a
course 82 years long Hke a perfect gentleman,
one would be sorry he should flag, when (as in
the course of nature he must be thought to be)
he is within a distance of the winning post. I
rather regret the prophet was not of the party :
for I am sure he merits every mark of grace and
attention from the Grand Duke. I think I should
have substituted his name for that of Dr. Thomp-
son, but I suppose the Grand Duke resembles
another celebrated Governour, namely, Sancho
Panza, and cannot dine, unless his physician be
present.

The steam engine first roused the countryside
from its old condition of not unprosperous torpor.

24 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

and now the motor car is completing the work, and
soon in all England no sleepy hollow will be left.

The opposition to railroads was not confined
to any particular class, and agriculturists were
particularly violent against them. At first there
were a good many cases of cattle straying on to
the line, 'which produced violent denunciations
from local papers, one of which once became so
excited that it said that, owing to the new-fangled
invention, an inoffensive cow had been cut into
calves !

The staunch old Tories of the past who looked
askance at the progress of steam were in some
respects not so short-sighted as they seemed — they
maintained that railways would destroy the old
EngUsh country life which, with but sKght change,
had endured for generations, and time has proved
that they were right. The pleasant relations which
formerly existed between landlord and tenant
are now, except in a few instances, things of the past,
whilst the time seems rapidly approaching when
class will regard class with feelings of disUke on
the one side, and hatred on the other. The good
fellowship formerly prevailing between high and
low is gone.

Some sixty or seventy years ago Radicals were
looked upon by the county gentry as dangerous
and ferocious men, with principles nearly allied
to Atheism and Repubhcanism. The local con-
ception of a Radical had been formed in the early
days of the nineteenth century, when Crown and
Church and Aristocracy were aU-powerful, and the

THE OLD-FASHIONED RADICAL 25

excesses of the French Revolution had created such
a strong feeling against popular concessions that a
group of men had arisen who had been driven into
the opposite extreme of thinking that liberty
could only be secured by a Republic, and that
Monarchy was another name for despotism. Never-
theless, such Radicahsm was of quite a harmless
kind, it was often merely academic and literary,
rather than political. It showed itself in quotations
from MUton, and, above aU, from Shakespeare
and the classics, to which no one would probably
listen in these days.

On the other hand there were a certain number
of fighting stalwarts who Hved almost isolated
lives in an unsympathetic age.

Such Radicals as these remembered times when
their forefathers had to contend with real dangers
to hberty, of which a later generation remembered
little, and were prepared to " champion " their
principles to the bitter end. Exile and imprison-
ment, if not worse, were always in the probabilities
of the " old Radical." No wonder they were a
little stern and sour, and looked with a certain
contempt on the Radicals of a later age, who had
never known a Pitt or Castlereagh, nor faced an
Ellenborough.

The old Tories would have regarded some of our
modern Conservatives as violent revolutionaries.
Compromise was not a popular word with them,
and to do them justice they were thoroughly in
earnest when they defended their somewhat narrow
political convictions. Those who did change their

26 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

principles did not dp so in the cynical manner of
some latter-day politicians.

Within the last few years a certain number of
Conservatives, perhaps inspired by the not very
edifying example of Mr. Winston Churchill, have
changed pamps and become active workers for the
Radical cause. The wife of a peer of this sort, now
as ardent an admirer of the principles of Mr. Lloyd
George as she had once been of those of Lord
Salisbury, canvassing amongst her husband's tenants,
met an old farmer to whom she expressed the hope
that he was going to vote for the right side. " And
what be that, my lady ? " inquired the old man.
"Why, the Liberals, of course," was the reply.
" Well, my lady," said he, turning back the lapel of
his coat and showing a Primrose badge, " twenty
years ago you told me to vote for the Conservatives,
and Conservative I be going to remain. I can't
keep changing sides as easily as some people."

For a few political turncoats there is real excuse.
One can hardly blame those whom one ministry have
seen fit to throw overboard for having the strength
to swim to the other side.

Then as now, of course, there were people who
changed their pohtical convictions on occasion, but
they were more exposed to hearing unpleasant reflec-
tions upon their behaviour than is the case to-day.

Lord Alvanley once administered a ratlaer
crushing rebuke to Sir Francis Burdett, whose
political views had changed. The liveries of both
were light blue and silver, and one day Lord Alvanley
said —

THE PEERAGE 27

"We're always mistaken for each other.
Couldn't we hit on a way to prevent it ? " " I'm
willing," replied the baronet, " if I only knew how."
" Then I'll tell you," said Alvanley. " Make your
people foUow your own example and turn their
coats — that will do it."

Much is heard as to the not very reputable origin
of the large properties belonging to certain peers
and dukes whose ancestors are supposed to have
obtained them by no very scrupulous methods.
As a matter of fact, most of the founders of wealthy
families amassed their fortunes in quite respectable,
if prosaic, trade, having been merely shrewd
investors. The great Grosvenor fortune is a con-
spicuous instance of this.

To cite some other examples, the families of
CornwaUis and Coventry, the Earls of Radnor,
Essex, Dartmouth, Craven, Warwick, TankerviUe,
Pomfret, are respectively descended from a City
merchant, a London mercer, a silk manufacturer,
a City alderman, a member of the Skinners' Com-
pany, a merchant tailor (the " Flower of wool-
staplers " GreviUe was called, from whom the Earl
of Warwick is lineaUy descended), a mercer, and a
Calais merchant, for such was Fermour, the ancestor
of the Earls of Pomfret. He it was who had Will
Somers in his service before the latter became fool
to Henry the Eighth. This Ust might be enlarged
to a very large extent, for good plain London citizens
have been the ancestors of many peers of compara-
tively ancient creation.

Peerages have sonaetimes been acquired in

28 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

curious ways. When the head of a weU-known
West country family was raised to the Upper House
a good deal of surprise was expressed at such a
distinction Ijeing conferred upon him, for he had not
rendered any particular services to his party, having
lost practically every election he had contested.
Lord Beaconsfield furnished me with the key
to this enigma. " Well," said he, " we really did
not know what to do with him, for he was
positively doing us 'harm. Wherever he stood he
was beaten, so at last we thought the best way
to get rid of him would be to send him to the
Upper House."

Many political peers have gone somewhat un-
willingly to the Upper Chamber. Mr. Lowe was a
case in point.

There was, I think, something of the Louis
Quatorze spirit about Mr. Gladstone, and with
a certain amount of reason he believed him-
self to be different from the ordinary run of
humanity.

At the end of his career, before Mr. Lowe was
made Lord Sherbrooke, Mr. Gladstone said to him,
" You are too old to be in the Government ; not
but that you are younger than I — but then I am
an exception ! "

I fancy a good many politicians got their peer-
ages because they were considered past work.

During the latter years of the Victorian Era a
tendency to regard the Second Chamber as a place
of retirement for politicians whose work was done
began to increase, and it gradually became recognised

THE HOUSE OF LORDS 29

as a convenient retreat for men who were deemed
ripe for the shelf.

After all, as an optimistic member of the House
of Commons once remarked, the House of Lords is
but a political long home, and we can aU comfort
ourselves that, though peers cannot return to us, we
may aU go to them.

Science and learning, though represented in
the House of Lords, have not, some people think,
obtained their due share of recognition. In aU
probability, in the case of the latter, this has done
no great harm, for very learned men are not always
fitted to exercise rule. In the case of science,
however, it is a different matter, for the whole pro-
gress of the modern world reaUy rests upon scientific
discovery, invention, and organisation, the latter
especially being of the highest importance, and surely
a great biologist or authority on pubhc health is
fully as worthy of having a voice in the affairs of
the nation as a successful manufacturer or employer
of labour.

Of late years, however, I think the creation of
certain peerages has impaired the prestige which
was formerly attached to membership of the
Upper House.

Some of the comments as to prospective peerages
passed in modern days are instructive as to the way
in which such matters are regarded. " I hear so-
and-so is to be made a peer," we hear some one say.
" Impossible," repHes another, " he is really too
bad ; why, he can hardly speak EngUsh. Still, he
has lots of money, and I am told is quite a nice

30 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

man. Besides, he is no worse than lots of others,
and at any rate his wife is charming ! " *

Unquestionable qualifications, perhaps, for social
popularity, but scarcely defensible credentials for
being accorded a perpetual vote in deciding ques-
tions which may affect the destinies of the English
people. •

In old days there were occasional murmurings
(and worse at the time of the first Reform BiU in
1832) against the House of Lords ; but at heart
the spirit of the country, with a certain number of
fanatical exceptions, was scarcely hostile to the
existence of such an institution. A great propor-
tion of the peers were large landowners, and through
various channels thoroughly in touch with the
ideas of the inhabitants of certain tracts of country.
To-day, except in a limited number of instances,
aU this is changed, and a totally different class has
gradually assumed the functions of hereditary
legislators. The enormous increase in the number
of peers within the last hundred and fifty years is
very striking.

In 1778 there were but two hundred and three,
increased to two hundred and seventy-j^ve by 1798,
which caused a contemporary cynic to say that, at
a period when scarcity was becoming general, there
was at least one great reason to be thankful — ^the
absolute impossibiHty of its extending to ti\e
members of the House of Lords.

Since then the list of peers has been gradually
further augmented, till at the present time there
are more than eight hundred upon the roll.

A SCANDAL 31

Bath political parties, it is to be feared,
have favoured the bestowal of an honour which
should be reserved only for really distinguished
men upon those who, in not a few instances,
could show but weU-filled money-bags as their
credentials.

Except from the point of view that party funds
must be kept in a flourishing condition at all costs,
many creations of the last fifty years must seem
totally unjustifiable, especially during an epoch
which has boasted that it ever set worth before
wealth.

There is some excuse, perhaps, for rewarding
conspicuous services to one or other of the two
great political parties with a peerage. A man who
has fought many elections, and given his health
and strength to such campaigns, may perhaps
justly be considered worthy of being accorded a
place in the gilded chamber as a reward for a
strenuous career ; but the bestowal of a peerage
upon some rich millionaire of small attainments,
or of no attainments at aU, must seem to thoughtful
people little short of a disgraceful scandal. With-
out doubt, it is the not infrequent occurrence of
this sort of thing which has produced a certain
feeUng that the whole constitution of the Second
ChaJTiber requires revision.

If peerages are to be bought, as some have been,
merely by money, the transaction should be openly
tolerated, and a regular tariff set up, so that rich
manufacturers, newly naturaUsed millionaires, and
successful business men might, if they desired some

32 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

form of distinction, pay their money and take
their choice.

" L'appetit vient en mangeant," and this apphes
to titles as well as other things. Years ago, when
I was in close touch with a good many people
wielding some influence in the political world, the
wife of a friend of mine (a very clever man I should
add, now dead) came to me, and time after time
besought me to use any influence I might possess
to obtain a knighthood for her husband. " Not,"
said she, " that he cares for such a very ordinary
distinction, but, as you know, a title of any kind
is likely to do him great good in the business circles
in which he is now getting on so well." In course
of time, though I fear not through any efforts of
mine, the knighthood was obtained. A few years
passed, and once more my friend's wife began to
speak of the good which a tactful word might do
in assisting to get her husband a baronetcy. " The
fact is," said she, " he regrets having ever accepted
a knighthood, for so many nobodies get this sort
of thing nowadays that he finds it a positive
disadvantage. As you know, we are above the
vulgarity of caring for distinctions of rank, still,
at the same time, when so many people, much inferior
to my husband, have been given baronetcies, it
seems hard that he should be left out in the cold " ;
and he was not, for he got his baronetcy, and
eventually becoming a baron, would no doubt have
ended as an earl had he hved, for he was very, very
rich.

I must in justice, however, add that the peer

THE STORY OF A TITLE 33

in question, a man of high ability, thoroughly
deserved the honours which his wife had worked so
hard to obtain for him. He left no successor, so
there is as Uttle harm in this anecdote as there was
in his peerage.

II

The last post-boy — The Derby Dilly — Steam packets — Travelling
abroad — A silent Duke — Pretty customs — Picturesque Bavaria
— An appropriate punishment — Anecdotes — An unfortunate in-
scription — Thiers and his schoolmaster — Prince DemidofE — "The
common lot " — Lady Strachan's villa — Rome under Papal rule — II
conde HaUfato.

A SHORT time ago I read that the oldest and
really the last post-boy — John Wilson, of
Dartford — had died at the age of ninety-six
in Dartford Workhouse. He was described as having
been a quaint figure, standing scarcely five feet,
upon legs much bowed from many years of riding,
during which he had been post-boy to the late
Queen on several occasions on journeys from
Dover to London. He worked at the Bull Hotel
in Dartford, the famous old coaching house,
stiU standing, I believe, with a gallery round the
courtyard

Ultra Conservatives Hke Lord Brougham con-
sidered posting an agreeable relaxation. ' ' Formerly, ' '
said he, " I could go eight or ten miles an hour along
excellent roads, stay at excellent inns, could stop
when convenient, and sleep when convenient." Had
he survived to the present age of motor cars, this
nobleman would have found all his requirements

THE 3EGINNING OF RAILWAYS 35

once more realised, with the exception of excellent
inns, of which there is indeed a sad lack in small
country towns. It is curious that English hotel-
keepers in general have not grasped the great
opportunities for making money which modern
accommodation and good, simple food would
afford. Motorists in general, I fancy, would be
prepared to spend a good deal more if their
requirements were attended to in an attractive
manner.

The last of the regular mail coaches would seem
to have been the old Derby maU, which made its
final journey out of Manchester in 1858. When
the rivalry of rails and steam had run aU other
coaches off the road, the " Derby Dilly " still held its
own, and the well-known route through Buxton and
Bakewell to Rowsley could still boast its " four-in-
hand," though the " team " was hardly equal to what
had been seen when coaching was in its best days.
It was thought that railways would not find their
way through the Peak, but the Midland line pene-
trated as far as Rowsley in a short time, and
in due course the London and North - Western
reached Whaley Bridge on the other side, leaving
but a short Hnk to be filled up, when the last of
the old four-in-hand mails succumbed to the com-
petition of the iron horse.

In the early days of railways the population
generally mistrusted the new mode of conveyance.
Some of the poetical effusions which figured on
triumphal arches during Royal visits in the early
days of railways expressed this feeling. An

36 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

enthusiastic Birmingham tradesman, for instance —
probably with a painful recollection of his own
railway experiences — put up the following distich
outside his shop —

Hail to Prince Albert, the pride of the nation !

May l|ts journey be safe when he goes from the station !

Looking through an old chest of letters some
time ago I came upon one which brought vividly to
my mind those far-away days when railways hardly
existed, and when travellers were exposed to in-
conveniences and adventures quite undreamt of
at the present time. It was sent by my father to
my sister and myself, at that time enjoying the
delights of Ilsington, the sweet Dorsetshire home,
which has now, alas ! passed out of the possession
of our family. The letter ran thus —

Aix LA Chapelle
5th July 1838
My Dearest Babies, — You wiU be sorry to
hear that I have lost everything brought with me
from Dresden. My old family repeater, seals, £2$
in gold and notes, several trinkets, all my papers
and letters, plans of Ilsington estate, etc., with a
good many clothes ; they were in a portmanteau
strapped behind, and safe tiU within a quarter of
an hour from this town, when a peasant was seen
to cut the straps about 5 o'clock in the day;
since which nothing has been heard of them—
numerous carts were passing and many persons
at work on and near the roads. It is a very serious

REGINAI,D NEVILL

(from a water-colour sketch made at ekidge in 1814)

STEAM PACKETS 37

loss to me, and added to a slight tendency to cholera
has much annoyed me.

The loss of my things will perhaps detain
me here for a few days, and delay my arrival in
London ; and what with illness, and these annoy-
ances, I am quite unequal to any exertion.

Should anything be heard from Munich of
the Countess of Richtberg's servant, Schmidt,
let me know, for it is useless having such a fool as
Newstead ; the former ought not to have more than
i6, or at most 17 florins per month with clothes
and board. My best love to all. — Yours affection-
ately, Orford

In the early days of steam people regarded
voyages in vessels propelled by the new method as
hazardous in the extreme. In 1838 my future
husband, Mr. Reginald Nevill, set out on a voyage
in one of the new steam packets. His relatives were
quite alarmed for his safety, as the following extract
from a letter written by his uncle, Mr. Edward
Walpole, shows. He wrote —

To tell the truth, before Reginald started, I
was rather fidgety at the thought of his crossing
the Bay of Biscay in a steamer, and am now the more
thankful at his having done so with safety, as it
appears a steam vessel called the Royal Tar, which
lately sailed from Falmouth for Gibraltar, met with
a violent storm in the bay and was all but lost. . . .

Passports were the curses of the traveller on the

38 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Continent in old days. No one can imagine the con-
stant inconvenience andwony caused by the necessity
of having these somewhat cumbersome certificates of
respectabiUty signed and countersigned by pompous
and often none too civil officials. Only in the late
fifties did the very stringent regulations as to pass-
ports begin to be relaxed, but for years afterwards
travellers were obUged to carry them, and even after
all pressing need for taking passports had ceased,
old-fashioned people continued to carry them, and
this lasted in some cases up to the early eighties of
the last century.

What discomfort travellers suffered at inns. One
of the most unpleasant experiences of this sort I
remember was when travelling on the Continent
with my parents in the early forties of the last
century. In the course of our wanderings we had
to stop at Rastadt, in Bavaria, at which town we
arrived at two in the morning, when there was not a
hving creature in the streets. Having groped our
way up the staircase of the inn, the landlord appeared
half-dressed at the top, looking angry and fierce,
said he had but two rooms, and seemed Ul-disposed
to bestir himself about supper. He was probably
offended at the evident disgust with which we shrank
back from the first room he threw open, smelling
strongly of mice, and the beds ready made up with
sheets that had doubtless served many a traveller.
The second room was so far better that the beds were
not sheeted. On the outside of these we lay down
in our clothes until six, and then, still fasting, except
a piece of bread since breakfast the day before, we

A DUKE'S ADVENTURE 39

resumed our journey. How glad we were to get
away, and how pleased to reach the next stopping-
place, where we were able to obtain bread, butter,
and eggs, which sustained us until we arrived at
Salzburg in the evening.

The greatest carelessness prevailed in most
German inns as to bedroom accommodation, which
was occasionally worse than scandalous.

At Salzburg we stayed at the Goldener Schiff,
having failed to obtain rooms at the best inn next
door, called the Herzog Karl. Every apartment here
was occupied by two famiUes, that of a young
Hungarian Countess two months married, and the
PoUsh Potoskas, who were waiting the arrival of the
Minister of Naples to complete the marriage of their
daughter. In due course the bridegroom arrived,
and we saw the fair young bride in her wreath and
flowing veil returning with a party of gaily-dressed,
smiling, congratulating friends, from the private
chapel in the Cardinal- Archbishop's palace, where the
marriage ceremony had just been performed. While
the wedding feast was spread in one part of the inn,
the corpse of the scarcely older bride was laid out in
another. After four days' iUness the young Hun-
garian lady had died, at the age of eighteen,
and one day, at noon, we saw her carried to the
cemetery, a long train of the townspeople, male and
female, following the hapless stranger to her foreign
grave. Death apparently was Ughtly regarded by
innkeepers.

The father of the fourth Duke of Devonshire,
like his brother. Lord George Cavendish (great-grand-

40 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

father of the present duke), was a very silent man.
When travelling through Germany, on stopping at
an inn, they were told that they could only be
accommodated with a chamber containing three
beds, one of which was already occupied. They
made no reply, but quietly retired to the apartment.
They, however, felt some curiosity, and drawing
aside the bed curtains, each took a momentary
peep. They then immediately got into bed and
slept soundly. Next morning, after they had
breakfasted and paid their biH, the duke merely said
to his brother, "George, did you see the dead body?"
" Yes," was the reply, and they both got into their
chaise and proceeded on their journey without
another word.

Bavaria, notwithstanding unpleasant experiences
hke the one I have described, was at that time a most
interesting country, retaining cis it did many features
connected with a past age.

The difference between travelling in those days
and now can hardly be realised by the present
generation. Railways scarcely existed, and there
were no huge hotels, one exactly like another,
filled with Germans, English, and Americans.
You saw the country through which you passed
in its every-day natural state, the people living
their own hves in repose, unspoilt as yet by a
constantly moving herd of travellers. Everything
then seemed full of its own identity, and Europe
was not ground down to one general level. For
the most part the peasantry in the country districts
were honest and simple, very religious, and very

THE CULT OF JASMINE 41

fond of their country and local traditions. In
Switzerland and Bavaria the spirit of TeU and
of Hofer still lived. Life seemed to afford endless
variety, for every district seemed to differ. The
table d'hote, now everywhere a copy of a pre-
tentious meal, was literally what it professed to be :
the master of the house presided, gave you the best
he had, and told you aU the news of the country
round. Occasionally his wife or children were
there, and often when one drove away flowers and
fruit were put into the carriage. The traveller's
arrival was a great excitement, and his departure
a regret. Instead of the pecuUarly ugly, common,
and ill-dressed figures which one now sees working
in the fields, every creature, man, woman, or chUd,
generally wore some more or less picturesque
dress. In Switzerland you could teU whenever
you got into a new canton by a complete change
in the costume.

How pretty were many of the customs of the
peasantry all over the Continent in old days,
especially in Italy. The Tuscan girls, for instance,
invariably wore a nosegay of jasmine on their
wedding-day ; they had a proverb which said that a
bride worthy of wearing such a nosegay was rich
enough to make the fortune of a good husband.

This cult of jasmine arose, it is said, from a Duke
of Tuscany who was the first possessor of the jasmine
in Europe, and he was so jealously fearful lest
others should enjoy what he alone wished to possess,
that strict injunctions were given to his gardener
not to give a slip, nor so much as a single flower,

42 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

to any person. To this command the gardener
would have been faithful, had not love wounded
him by the sparkling eyes of a fair but portionless
peasant, whose want of a little dowry and his
poverty alone kept them from the hymeneal altar.
On the bifthday of his mistress he presented her
with a nosegay, and to render the bouquet more
acceptable, ornamented it with a branch of jasmine.
The girl, wishing to preserve the bloom of this new
flower, put it into fresh earth, and the branch
remained green all the year. In the following
spring it grew, and was covered with flowers. It
flourished and multiplied so much under the fair
one's cultivation, that she was able to amass a
little fortune from the sale of the precious gift
which love had made her, when, with a sprig of
jasmine in her breast, she bestowed her hand and
wealth on the happy gardener of her heart.

In Bavaria the peasantry stUl adhered to their
old dress, which was picttuesque in the extreme
in the case of the men, who wore long-tailed coats
reaching to their heels, cocked hats, and Hessian
boots. The postilions in particular caught our
fancy ; they had a gay and clean appearance rare
among foreign post-boys, being dressed in bright
Bavarian blue, trimmed with silver lace, their
shiny hats decked with a taU blue and white
feather. Alas ! I fear all this has long ceased to be
— such things have no place in the practical German
Empire of to-day.

During this journey we passed some time at
Munich, a town inseparably connected in my

A CURIOUS WEDDING 43

mind with the recollection of a very curious wedding
which we attended between an EngHsh lady and
a Bavarian^ celebrated according to the rites of
the English Church. The bridegroom was quite
ignorant of English, on account of which Mr. Lons-
dale, an attache at the Legation, stood by him
during the service, repeating his responses for him,
while the bridegroom kept murmuring " AU dis I
say," the only words of our language which he
knew.

At Munich we saw a good deal of Mr. Hallam
and his family, with whom we visited the Palace,
which had only recently been finished.

The old King of Bavaria, in spite of some faults,
amongst which, I suppose, the chief was his in-
fatuation for Lola Montez, was a kindly old man.

One day a woman fainted in one of the streets
of Munich. An elderly gentleman who approached
the spot where she was lying requested some of
the persons present to go and fetch a medical man.
They aU replied that they knew not where to find
one. " WeU, then," said he, " I wiU go myself,"
and in a few moments he returned with a doctor,
who applied the proper remedies to the poor woman.
The kind-hearted old gentleman was King Louis of
Bavaria.

I think that the following act of generosity was
also supposed to have been performed by this
monarch — it was either he or the King of Prussia.

Resolving to relieve the needs of one of his poor
but brave aides-de-camp he sent him a small portfolio,
bound like a book, in which were deposited five

44 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

hundred crowns. Some time afterwards he met the
officer, and said to him, " Ah, well, how did you
like the new work which I sent to you ? " " Exces-
sively, sire," replied the colonel ; " I read it with such
interest that I expect the second volume with
impatience." The king smiled, and when the
officer's birthday arrived, he presented him with
another portfolio, similar in every respqct to the
first, but with these words engraved upon it —
" This book is complete in two volumes."

Even at that time the pubUc gardens in Germany
were well kept up, and great care taken to preserve
their amenities.

At Frankfort, for instance, some mischievous
wretch shot a nightingale in the beautiful public
gardens, and was caught in the act. His punishment
was characteristic : his hands were tied behind him,
and a label setting forth his crime was fixed on his
breast. In this guise, with a poUce officer on each
side, he was marched all round the gardens, and made
the circuit of the city, pursued by the hisses of the
populace and the abhorrent looks of the upper
classes. He was not otherwise punished; but he
never again made his appearance in the town.

During our travels we made the acquaintance
of the young Duchess of Nassau. Six months after
we had met her, we learnt with sorrow of her death.
When we had said good-bye she had been rejoicing
in the prospect of an heir, though occasionally
indulging in melancholy presentiments as to her
confinement. They were unfortunately reahsed.
When the time drew near the young duke was in

HOTEL LIFE 45

high spirits, sa3ang repeatedly, " Our baby will soon
be born now." It was born, but dead, and soon
afterwards, to his extreme consternation, he was told
his beloved wife was dying too. She herself had no
idea of danger, and when the Greek priest entered to
prepare her for death, she said, " Why do you come
now ? I never sent for you." The poor man was so
overcome that he fainted away, and had only just
time to administer the last sacraments to the expiring
duchess. She made but one request in dying, that
her body might never be put underground. The
poor husband was at first inconsolable. He visited
her corpse and the infant's every day ; and said
to a favourite attendant, pointing to them, "There
lies aU my happiness."

Though many modern hotels are, I behave, most
luxurious palaces, my early experiences have always
made me disUke the idea of people hving anywhere
but in a house of their own.

Anyone hving in an hotel is Hke a grape-vine in a
flower-pot — movable, carried round from place to
place, docked at the root, and short at the top.
Nowhere can any individual get real root-room, and
spread out his branches till they touch the morning
and the evening, but in his own house.

We went to some queer places during our travels.
Once we crossed the Brenner Pass in carriages by
the old road — a new one which was then being made
was fast progressing — and before reaching Landeck
encountered a terrible storm . Continuing our j oumey
we breakfasted at St. Anthon, where we found fleas
in the butter, fleas in the mUk, and dirt everjrwhere.

46 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

but a very good new piano ! This was a wretched
post-house in Vorarlberg, where the Kellnerin assured
us Herrschaft never came. We afterwards com-
menced the ascent of the Adlersberg ; the view
from the snow-clad summit was magnificent. Our
postiUon v^as one of the merriest creatures imagin-
able. As he walked beside his horses up the hiU he
whistled, sang, and trumpeted by turns. When we
had reached the top he set off full trot, never stopping
tiU he reached the post-house at the bottom, looking
round into the carriage at every sharp turn of the
winding descent to see how far his reckless speed was
approved of. I remember my father enjoying this
immensely, nodding and laughing in answer to the
postilion's triumphant "Sind sie jetzt zufrieden/'
thereby encouraging him to greater daring.

The crossing of the Splugen Pass was another
adventure.

The master of the post assured us the road
was perfectly good and safe, and that though the
carriages must be put on sledges, they would not
be required for more than half an hour. How he
deceived us ! Some of us went in a britschka ; I
myself, however, chose the coach. We had eleven
men with us, besides the postilions, and three sent
forward to clear the road. About half an hour
after quitting the village they began to remove the
wheels of the carriages, and put them on sledges,
so narrow and apparently insufficient that my
father remonstrated, and thought we could do better
without, but the post-master, who had himself
come with us to see all rightly done, insisted ; and

CROSSING THE SPLUGEN 47

one of the men gravely told us that higher up we
should find the snow no joke. They were right:
the zig-zags began, and for a time all went on well ;
but the higher we got, the deeper became the snow,
and the narrower the httle track which alone
remained to show the direction of the road. The
snow, half-way up the mountain, was higher than the
tops of the tall posts that marked the line of road.
The heavy boxes had aU been taken off the carriages
and put on sledges, but the carriages themselves
requiring all the attention of the eleven men, there
were none to attend to the luggage sledges, and
the first disaster occurred by one of the horses
turning a corner too sharply, and tumbhng over
the boxes with two of the menservants, who were
seated on them, into the snow. This accident only
excited a laugh ; but a minute or two afterwards
the fourgon was overturned — a far more serious
affair. AU the men ran to assist in raising the
ponderous vehicle. The next alarm was given
by the heavy coach, which was so nearly overturned
that my mother durst no longer remain in it. She
got into the britschka, and I and she sat upon the
sledges convejdng the boxes. Every moment, as
we wound higher, the road grew more dangerous ;
aU track was soon lost, for it seems snow had
fallen in the night, and obliterated it towards the
summit. Our guides haUooed to the men who were
gone before, and to those who Uved at the top of
the mountain to keep the road, to be quick, and
clear away the snow. They owned to us there was
danger, but promised to do their utmost for our

48 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

safety, and so I believe they did. The heat of the
sun softened the snow so much that the men at the
sides, holding up the carriages, sank frequently up
to their knees ; yet they jumped from side to side,
being sometimes obliged to hang on with all their
weight to. pre vent the carriage from rolhng over —
so active and invaluable that I blessed them for their
care. Many a vow we made never to cross a high
pass again, many a silent prayer we breathed for our
preservation. We did not feel safe tiU we had gained
the summit, 6814 feet above the sea, and 1800 above
the village from which we started in the morning.

In descending we met the sledges conveying the
dihgence, and lower down a long train of mules
laden with wine, bales of goods, and the like. A
Uttle beyond the Austrian frontier, which we passed
without any delay, the carriages were again put
upon wheels, and during the operation I heard a
distant roar, and the guides pointed to a lofty rock
from which an avalanche was falling. Afterwards
I saw several — small ones, and at a safe distance.
And now the wonders of the road began. We passed
in a rapid but safe descent through many galleries,
some more than a thousand feet long, cut out of the
sohd rock ; some hghted by arched openings, some
supported on pillars, some with shelving roofs to
conduct the avalanches into the gulf below. Emerg-
ing from these we looked down some thousand
feet upon the village of Isola, in the vaUey under
our very feet, and here we passed the lovely cascade
of the Medessino, which leaps down perpendicularly
800 feet, one of the finest in the Alps.

WIESBADEN 49

In the course of our wanderings we stayed some
time at Wiesbaden, where we were invited to see
Sir Frederick Trench's sketches, all of which had
some little story connected with them. An inde-
fatigable worker, he sketched everything, even to
curious cliimney-pots and grotesque extinguishers.
He also showed us his plans for improving Piccadilly,
the Royal Academy, and the banks of the Thames.
Lady Ashbrook, who came to see us, also brought
some beautiful sketches on the Moselle done by
her daughter. Altogether our six weeks' stay was
most agreeable, for there were many nice English
people in the place. After this we spent a month
at Mayence, where I went a good deal to the theatre
with my dear governess. Miss Redgrave. We went
alone, but never experienced any inconvenience.
Once, on entering a box, there was one front place
vacant — a gentleman and lady occupied the others
— the gentleman immediately resigned his place to
leave two front seats for us. Another time, when
the house was very full, aU the back seats in the box
we sat in were occupied by officers of the Prussian
garrison, but nobody molested us, nor attempted
to occupy the vacant place in the front row beside
us. We ever found the Germans a most weU-bred
people. They still retained, however, a hatred of
the French, for many who remembered the invasion
of Napoleon's troops were aUve. Some of his
generals had been very ruthless in their proceedings,
especially General Vandamme, who, during the
march of the grande armee to Russia, had had the
garden of his house at Cassel surrounded by iron
4

50 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

railings of different patterns taken from German
churches, and he had levied contributions on
various German convents to fiU his cellars with
wine.

During the same campaign the French had erected
a monument in the market-place of Coblentz on
which wa's placed the following inscription —

Anno 1 8 12.

Memorable par la Campagne centre les Russes,

sous le Prefecture de Jules Douzan.

Two years later, when the historic retreat from
Moscow had taken place, the following biting
addition was subjoined —

Vu, et approuve, par nous. Commandant Russe
de la Villa de Coblentz, le i Janvier, 1814.

How benighted the condition of most of the little
Continental towns would seem to the up-to-date
traveller of to-day. The inhabitants, for the most
part, were entirely absorbed in their own affairs, and
even local interests stirred them but little. As for the
outside world, what happened there did not matter
to them a jot. Even some of the larger cities knew
little of men famous in the political world. This
is well shown by a story of M. Thiers, stopping at
Luxemburg whilst on a journey. The burgomaster
came forth to do him honour, and by way of com-
plimenting him, mentioned that an old man, a
MarseUlais, had performed the functions of school-
master in the town for about twenty years. The
ex-Minister desired to be introduced to him, when
the following dialogue ensued. Thiers commencing —

THIERS AND HIS SCHOOLMASTER 51

" Do you know me ? " " No, sir." " You don't
remember little Adolphe Thiers, one of your scholars
at Marseilles ? " " Wait, wait — ^yes, I do recoUect
such a name ; a sly little monkey who used to play
such pranks." " Just so." " Ah ! it is you ? I am
very glad to see you. Have you succeeded ? Have
you made your fortune ? " " Sufficiently so, I
thank you." " So much the better — so much the
better ! Pardon my curiosity ; I should like to know
what you have been doing. Are you a notary,
banker, merchant ? " "I have retired from business,
but I have been a minister." " Protestant ? "
asked the old man. " And this is glory ! " said
Thiers. He had never heard of Thiers, Minister oi
the Interior — Thiers, Minister of Commerce^
Thiers, Minister of Foreign Affairs — or of Thiers,
author of the History of the Consulate and Empire !

Those were the days when picturesque ceremonial
was very conspicuous abroad. The public attend-
ance of the military at High Mass, for instance, is in
France and Italy at least a thing of the past. This
function I saw at Bologna in 1843.

Walking about noon towards the Piazza di
Nettuno, it was evident, from the open, draperied
windows and the throngs of people, that some-
thing was going on. Just as I reached the front
of S. Petronio a discharge of musketry startled
me : the Piazza was crowded with soldiers, and
full of smoke ! Inside the church High Mass was
being performed, the organ pealing, and a thousand
voices joining in the anthem. The immense church
was f uU : down the side aisles were ranged, in files of

52 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

four deepj five or six hundred soldiers — ^these were
unarmed and bareheaded : the centre aisle was
lined also with soldiers, but fully equipped. On the
elevation of the Host, at the loudly uttered word of
command (how strange it sounded in the house of
God !) down dropped all the soldiers on their knees,
grounded their arms, and touched their hats. The
muskets in the Piazza were discharged simultane-
ously — and every head bowed, every knee bent. It
was impossible not to be moved ! When the service
was ended, the authorities of the town, of&cials and
ofi&cers of the regiment, defiled down the centre aisle.
The order to " March " again resounded through
the church, the soldiers' regular tramp succeeded,
and after them the crowd poured out to hear the
martial music which immediately struck up. It was
the celebration of the Feast of the Purification.

Military ceremonial in particular was especially
dignified and impressive. I remember hearing of a
most striking funeral of this kind — ^that of a French
vivandiere belonging to one of the regiments of the
Garde Imperiale. The cof&n was covered with a
black paU, on which was embroidered a white crucifix.
On the bier were placed her miUtary coat and red
petticoat, a poniard, and a small round hat orna-
mented with a plume of feathers. This young girl
was greatly beloved and respected in the regiment.
She had accompanied the corps all through the
Crimean campaign. Her kind attentions to the
wounded, her benevolence, and many good qualities
had endeared her to aU. She was carried to her last
home with the same military honours as if she had

A FUNERAL AT VERONA 53

been a comrade, amidst the tears and regrets of
many a veteran soldior.

In the old Italian cities much of the Middle Ages
still survived. For instance, when we were at
Verona, I remember the coffin of a poor man's child,
attended by two or three little boys bearing torches,
was carried into the church close to our inn. A few
minutes after, the deep sounds of the bassoon, and
the solemn funeral h5niin, attracted us again to the
window. The child of a rich man was now carried
past, and laid beside the other little corpse. A long
train of white-robed priests and torch-bearers at-
tended. The coffin was covered with a paU of green
and gold, with wreaths of artificial flowers upon it,
and four boys walked at the four corners of the
bier, wearing helmets with gaudy plumes, and a pair
of immense wings flapping at their backs ! Scarcely
had we ventured to our seats, and begun to com-
ment on what we had seen, when a third procession
approached the church with all the pomp and
pecxoliarities of the second, and a third corpse was
laid in the chamber of the dead. The effect was
solemn, almost alarming; it seemed as if we were
in a city of the plague.

At some Italian cities travellers on arrival were
greeted by a band of blind performers playing on
stringed instruments.

At Florence, where we passed many happy days,
enjoying the many delights of the beautiful city,
elaborate festivals were common. June 23rd, 24th,
and 25th were (and I suppose still are) great f 6te days.
The chariot races which formerly took place in the

54 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Piazza S. M. Novella were very interesting. Every
house was hung with damask of brilUant colour, the
centre of the Piazza opposite the church being
occupied by a stand for the Corps Diplomatique.
This, filled with brilliant uniforms and draped with
silk hangings of crimson and gold, presented a
brilliant appearance. The circuit of the Piazza
was formed into an amphitheatre, with seats reach-
ing up to the first-floor windows of the surrounding
houses, every upper window and roof being also
crowded with spectators. Guards cleared the way
for the race in a quaint manner. Advancing
slowly in a hue, the crowd receded as slowly before
them, till it was compressed into a very narrow
space, when it was finally dispersed into the adjacent
streets and avenues by the prancing and whirling
round of the horses; everything, however, was
very gently done and with good-humour. Four
chariots, shaped like those of the Greeks of old,
then appeared ; these were gilded and painted, each
drawn by two gaily caparisoned and befeathered
horses, driven by a charioteer with two appro-
priately dressed attendants. We were told that
the winner was selected beforehand, the prize being
divided among the competitors. At the start the
first chariot, the driver in pale pink and silver, was
much behind the others, but, gradually gaining
ground, appeared to win very fairly at the end of
the third round, upon which the victor was crowned
with laurels and a flag hoisted in his car. The crowd
then surged into the Piazza, and the chariots
triumphantly defiled before the Court Pavilion or

A CHEERFUL CONVENT 55

stand. In the evening fireworks, largely consisting
of fire ballons with fiery parachutes, were sent up.
There were also many ceremonies, one of which
consisted in the Grand Duke offering tapers before
the silver shrine. I remember also a convent near
the Porta San Frediano, where the nuns were
dressed in purple and wore white veils, the superior
of which was over eighty, and was treated with the
greatest respect, especially by the younger nuns,
who knelt when they received her orders or spoke
to her. A holy family in Court suits, given by the
Grand Duchess, was a great treasure of this convent !
The nuns were amiable and cheerful to excess,
laughing at everything. There were several pianos
for the use of pupils, and I was asked to play on one.
I said I knew none but worldly tunes, but they
wUlingly listened to some waltzes of Strauss.

Our house — the Palazzo St. Clemente — at
Florence, Hke many of the Palazzi of the Florence of
that day, was situated in the filthiest of streets ;
where groups of dirty and half-naked children
played about, and where, without great care, you
stumbled over cabbage stalks, or heaps of sweepings,
and lumps of horrid hair thrown out of a barber's
shop, and threatening to attach itself and its
inhabitants to your petticoats. Enter the house,
which towards the street presented no remarkable
exterior, walk up to its saloons or terraces, and
there burst upon you a sense of loveliness indeed !
A garden of park-like size, graced with noble trees
in spring's own richest, brightest fohage, whole
banks of clustering roses, oUve-crowned hills

56 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

covered with white villas, and a distant glimpse
of the snow-capped Apennines in aU their purple
softness. Our landlord, the Marquis Torregiani,
was above eighty years old. TaU, thin, and per-
fectly erect, he was to be seen early every morning
walking aijaong the groves of his own planting,
sheltered by a green silk parasol. Local rumour
said that in his youth he had loved a country girl,
but pride had prevented a marriage. She died ;
and her noble lover btult in his grounds a lofty
tower, from the battlements of which he could see
the distant village, doubly interesting to him as
containing her home, and her grave.

Amongst other social amusements we often met
to hear recitations from Dante at Lord Vernon's
and Colonel Lindsay's.

At Florence we used to see a good deal of Prince
Demidoff, in his way a most original character, and
a confirmed wag, never able to resist playing practical
jokes. So great was his reputation for this form of
amusement, that when his wife received the news
of his death, she treated it as a hoax— another of
the Prince's pleasant jokes — but it was no joke this
time. The Prince had often made sport of death,
but now death had made sport of him. He once
made a number of doctors in Vienna absolutely
furious by an extraordinary prank. He sent to
each of the doctors separately, requesting them to
visit him and report upon some disease under which
he laboured. About a score of them obeyed the
summons, and each gave him a written opinion on
his complaint. As he expected, they were all

THE COMMON LOT 57

different, no two of them agreed. This was exactly
what he wanted. He called all the doctors together
in a body, read their conflicting opinions to them,
set them aU by the ears, and laughed in their faces.
How happily the days passed amidst a round
of amusements, diversified by pleasant rides with
dehghtful people, for Florence was then the gayest
of cities. Every one was very kind to me, and as
was the fashion, a number of people wrote verses in
a little book which I kept, and which I still retain.
Looking through it the other day I found the fol-
lowing verses — dated 23rd March 1843 — signed
Montgomery. Alas ! I cannot now recall who
this Mr. Montgomery was. I do not think that it
could have been Mr. Alfred Montgomery, though he
was clever man enough. The lines are so pretty
that I give them —

THE COMMON LOT

Once in the fliglit of ages past
There lived a man — and who was he ?
Mortal, howe'er thy lot be cast,
That man resembled thee.

Unknown the region of his birth.
The land in which he died, unknown.
His name has perished from the earth.
This truth survives alone.

That joy and giief, and hope and fear
Alternate triumphed in his breast ;
His bUss and woe — a smile — a tear,
ObUvion hides the rest.

The bounding pulse, the languid limb.
The changing spirit's rise and fall.
We know that these were felt by him.
For these are felt by all.

58 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

He sufiered — but his pangs are o'er ;
Enjoyed — ^but his delights are fled ;
Had friends — his friends are now no more ;
And foes — his foes are dead.

He loved — but whom he loved, the grave
Hath lost in its unconscious womb.
Oh, she was fair — but naught could save
He/ beauty from the tomb.

He saw whatever thou hast seen.
Encountered all that troubles thee ;
He was — whatever thou hast been;
He is — what thou shalt be.

The rolling seasons, day and night,
Sun, moon, and stars, the earth and main,
Erewhile his portion, life and Ught,
To him exist in vain.

The clouds and sunbeams o'er his eye
That once their shade and glory threw.
Have left in yonder silent sky
No vestige where they flew.

The annals of the human race.
Their ruins since the world began.
Of him afiord no other trace
Than this — there lived a man.

Florence was, I remember, full of rather scan-
dalous gossip, much of which concerned the priests
and monks, who in those days were much more in
evidence than is now the case.

One story I remember of a certain priest in a
rich abbey in Florence, who had been a fisherman's
son. It had been his habit to cause a net to be
spread every day on a table in his apartment in
order to put him in mind of his origin, and when
his abbot died this dissembling humility was the
means of his being chosen abbot: The net was

AN ECCENTRIC MONK 59

now used no more. Some one who knew the story
asked the new abbot why he had altered his habits.
" Oh," replied he, " there is no occasion for the net
now the fish is caught."

There was also another story about a some-
what eccentric monk who, on St. Stephen's day, was
appointed to pronounce a long eulogium upon the
saint. As the day was pretty well advanced, the
priests, who were getting hungry, and were appre-
hensive of a tedious paneg5nic, whispered to their
comrade to be brief. The monk mounted the
pulpit, and, after a short preamble, said — " My
brethren, it is only about a year since I told you
aU I knew about St. Stephen. As I have heard
nothing new with regard to him since that time, I
shall add nothing to what I said before." And so,
making the sign of the cross, he walked off.

Amongst other places in Italy we stayed some
time at Padua, from which I paid my first visit to
Venice, going as far as Mestre by the railroad, and
across the Lagune in a boat. The arches which
were to support the railway bridge across the
lagoon were already finished, and the romantic
isolation of the Queen of the Adriatic was soon to
come to an end.

Venice, beautiful, wonderful, strange, more than
answered my expectations ! Paintings and views
have not exaggerated its brilliant beauty. Its
gorgeous colouring, grand and picturesque archi-
tecture, the noiseless gliding of its luxurious
gondolas, its historic interest, and romantic legend-
ary fame, all conspired to dazzle and deHght. It

6o UNDER FIVE REIGNS

was like a glimpse of Fairyland. On returning to
our inn at Padua we found the Duke of Bordeaux
and a small suite had arrived ; he was on his way
to the mud baths of Albano, recommended for his
lameness. He passed once or twice through the
common sitting-room, which we, while the only
guests, had appropriated. I would gladly have
thought him princely, but he looked only amiable.
Twelve days passed very pleasantly at Padua.
We rode generally every evening, and found the
surrounding country rich and fertile, though not
pretty. Near the baths of Albano it improves in
beauty by the background of blue, sharply defined
hiUs beyond. We had several days of intense
heat, and many thunderstorms. To the others of
our party it was a wearisome place, but the facility
of admission to draw in the churches made it very
agreeable to myself and my dear governess. During
the burning heat of noontide it was pleasant to sit
in St. Antonio, opposite some favourite fresco or
interesting monument, enjoying the dolce far niente,
and long- reveries occupied the hours when exertion
was, or seemed, impossible. \\Tien a storm, or the
approach of evening, had cooled the air we rode
forth to explore the fiat and dreary suburbs. The
town always looked empty, as the few inhabitants
walked under the arches ; but we used to see the
students taking their evening exercise on the
ruined ramparts, like a flight of c^ows on the wedls
and heights.

Primitive ways and customs prevailed in the
Italy of those distant days.

A DUKE OF NORFOLK 6i

On the outside of the Church of San Zaccaria,
at Venice, a curious handbill was posted, which,
after lamenting the prevalence of the sin of swear-
ing in Venice, invited aU the devout to pray for the
repentance of those addicted to this grievous sin
against their own souls, fixing the hour of prayer
at three daily, when the church bell, toUing for
vespers, would remind all who heard it, wherever
they might be, and however employed, to pause
and offer a petition for their erring brethren.

At Venice we saw a great deal of Mr. Rawdon
Browne, a great authority upon art and anti-
quities.

He gave a veryinteresting account of hisrecovery,
after great labour and difficulty, and his successful
removal, of the gravestone with armorial bearings
which once covered the bones of Thomas Mowbray,
Duke of Norfolk, banished by our Richard ii for
his quarrel with BoUngbroke, who, after much
fighting

Against black Pagans, Turks, and Saracens,
And toil'd with works of war retired himself
To Italy, and there at Venice gave
His body to that pleasant country's earth.
And his pure soul unto his captain, Christ,
Under whose colours he had fought so long.

About two hundred and fifty years after the death
of the exUe his bones were claimed by a descendant,
who, it is said, was of a parsimonious turn, and
drove a hard bargain for their transport to England.
Mr. Browne, looking over some heraldic emblazon-
ments of the tablets in St. Mark in an old book.

62 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

saw one which he immediately recognised as the
arms of the Dukes of Norfolk. Conjecturing that
this was the tombstone of the exiled duke, and that
the parsimony of the transporter of his remains had
not been willing to pay for the carriage of it along
with the j3ones, he began a search for it, and when
nearly in despair, luckily obtained a clue in some
accounts of the reparation of the pavement, and
found the tombstone at last, broken, but not other-
wise injured, with the inscription downwards,
forming part of the restored pavement. He ob-
tained leave to remove it, on substituting a new
stone in its place, and afterwards sent it, on their
earnest request, to the Howards of Corby Castle.

When at Naples we went to see the viUa of
Lady Strachan, called, from her ItaUan possessions,
Marchesa di Salsa. It was on the Strada Nuova,
or at least the entrance was there. We had a winding
descent to follow for a quarter of an hour, among
rocks carpeted with flowers and canopied with
vines, before we reached the Httle dwelling on the
sands of the seashore. The high road passed over
the garden, carried across an immense arch, through
which was a lovely view of the sparkUng sea and
distant mountains, with a foreground of aloes and
pines. Lady Strachan met us in the garden, and
showed us first the interior of her villa, or cottage,
as she persisted in calUng it. All the arrangements
had been made with a view to coolness : the floor
with painted tiles, and furnished with hght chintzes.
The Villa-Rocca Matilda, as it was called, after one
of the owner's daughters, was washed on three

LADY STRACHAN'S VILLA 63

sides by the sea. From her bed Lady Strachan
could see the sun rising behind Vesuvius, or watch,
at night, the flickering flames on its truncated cone ;
a balcony in the drawing-room actually overhung
the sea ; from the dining-room windows we looked
at several caves, accessible dry-shod in summer, and
at the spot where, tradition says, LucuUus fed the
muraense with the flesh of his slaves. Here we
were refreshed with some Leman's biscuits and
claret, before beginning our walk over the grounds.
Two years before, this beautiful spot had been a
wild, neglected vineyard, and the cottage a roofless
ruin. The taste of its owner planned the restora-
tions and improvements. In the picturesque
garden, where was every variety of rock and cave,
flowery bank and verdant deU, roses, geraniums,
verbena, mignonette, jasmine, and myrtle, with
many exotics whose names I did not know, were aU in
blossom ; and the gardener, at her desire, gave each
of us a bouquet of flowers, growing in the open air,
close to the seashore, in December. The view of
Naples from some points of this garden was perfect.
My dear governess. Miss Redgrave, who was a very
talented artist in water-colours, and myself, each
made a Httle sketch of the villa, through the arch.
I had seldom seen so lovely a place. It was
about half an hour's drive from the Chiaja, where
Lady Strachan had her town residence, and she
told us she came nearly every day, in winter, to
watch the progress of her flowers. The viUa and
its grounds formed a deUghtful retreat of quite a
unique kind.

64 ' UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Sixty or seventy years ago Italy, or rather the
various states which were afterwards unified into
the present kingdom, was thought of by EngUsh
people in a totally different way to that which
prevails to-day, when the political intrigues
which formerly abounded there have long become
things of the past. Much has been written of the
greater figures who moulded modern Italy, but many
of the minor poUticians of a past epoch are now
forgotten. Amongst these is that curious character,
Baron Ward — the Yorkshire groom — who in the
fifties of the last century played such a conspicuous
part in Italian poHtical life, and became Prime
Minister of Parma. Ward left Yorkshire as a boy in
the pay of Prince Lichtenstein of Hungary, and
after a four years' successful career on the turf at
Vienna as a jockey, he was employed by the then
reigning Duke of Parma. He was at Lucca pro-
moted from the stable to be valet to the Duke, in
which comparatively humble position he remained
up to 1846. About that period he was made
Master of the Horse to the Ducal Court, and eventu-
ally became Minister of the Household and Minister
of Finance, which office he held when the Duke
abdicated in 1848. Ward then became an active
agent of Austria during the revolution. As Austria
triumphed he returned to Parma as Prime Minister,
and negotiated the abdication of Charles 11, and
placed the youthful Charles iii on the throne, who
met with a tragic fate, being assassinated before his
own palace in 1854. It should be observed that, as
soon as Charles iii came to the throne, the then

BARON WARD 65

Baron Ward was sent to Germany by his patron
as Minister Plenipotentiary, to represent Parma at
the Court of Vienna. This post he held up to the
time of his royal patron's tragical end. When a
new Duchess-Regent assumed state authority. Ward
retired from public hfe, and took to agricultural
pursuits in the Austrian dominions. Without any
educational foundation he contrived to write and
speak German, French, and Italian, and conducted
the affairs of state with considerable cleverness, if
not with remarkable straightforwardness. Baron
Ward was married to a humble person of Vienna,
and left four children. Perhaps no man of modern
times passed a more varied and romantic life than
Ward the groom, statesman and friend of
Sovereigns. From the stable he rose to the highest
office of a Uttle kingdom, at a period of great
European political interest. He died in retirement,
pursuing the rustic occupations of a farmer, and
carried with him to the grave many curious State
secrets which wiU now never be revealed.

Italy in former days was frequented by numbers
of painters and architects. Many of the former had
studios, where they spent much time copying the
works of the old masters to seU to rich EngUsh
travellers, then highly addicted to spending money
on this kind of art.

As for the architects, they roamed about the
country taking sketches of buildings and bits of
buildings in order to incorporate ornamental details
in their own designs and plans. Too often,
alas ! the methods some of the EngUsh architects
5

66 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

pursued produced very incongruous effects, for
adaptations of ornate Italian fagades are rarely
satisfactory in our own country. In some instances,
however, the result has been good. I have been told
that for the design of the river front of the Houses
of Parliament Barry borrowed largely from the
Spedale Maggiore at Milan, founded by Francesco
Sforza and his Duchess Maria in 1456, the centre of
which immense building is beautifully ornamented
with terra-cotta and red brick.

My father and mother were both somewhat
artistic in their tastes, and consequently we visited
a great many studios in the course of our wanderings.
The most agreeable of these, I think, was at Antwerp,
where we went to see the atelier of Keyser, who
lived in a large and handsome house a la vieilh
bourse. A long, cool passage led from the porte
cochere into a square court filled with flowers,
and a broad marble staircase of mosaic to the living
rooms. After waiting a few minutes, while my
father sent in his name, in a pleasant parlour
decorated with fine engravings and a number of
good water-colour sketches, collected within a
large frame, a pretty, civil maidservant pointed
out the atelier in the court. It was a large, lofty
room with an open chimney, hung with many
fragments of rich tapestry, and the bare parts of
the walls covered with armour, pictures, casts,
curious old utensils, handsome pieces of antique
furniture, chairs, and cabinets. The painter ad-
vanced from his easel to receive us, a handsome
young man of good address, his hair and beard

A CHARMING STUDIO 67

trimmed after the fashion of Vandyke, and his
dress rather fanciful, without being affected. He
was employed on a picture representing Rubens
in the midst of his family and friends. One of the
party, with an old clasped volume resting on his
knees, was reading aloud, as was the custom in the
domestic circle of the great painter, the others in
various attitudes of attention. The faces were all
portraits. Among them was the famous " Chapeau
de faille." Two figures only were finished; but
the rest of the picture was forward enough to
enable us to see its great merit. The grouping
was good, the colouring rich. The painter, in an
easy, fluent manner, explained his ideas and inten-
tions, then reverted to the state of the arts in
England, inquired after our exhibitions and institu-
tions, and mentioned several fine private collections
with which he was acquainted. He seemed much
pleased with my father, and showed his sketches
very willingly. For the picture he was painting
he was to have 10,000 francs. We comphmented
him on the tasteful arrangement of his painting-
room, and he described to me how it was his
intention further to decorate it with gilt leather
hangings, so as to give it the appearance of an
atelier of the Middle Ages. " He is a man of taste,"
we mutually agreed, as we retraced our steps
through his cool court of flowers, and passed again
at the foot of the marble staircase, and near the
pleasant parlour, " well-born, no doubt, from his
graceful manners and perfect self-possession before
strangers, and highly educated, as his classic know-

68 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

ledge, general information, and fluent, elegant
French plainly showed." Not at all! Our guide
told us his history as we went along. He was
like Giotto, a shepherd boy, and tended his sheep
in the Polders, when some painter of animals came
to study cattle from nature. The yet undeveloped
artist watched the progress of the painter, and
when he was absent, tried to imitate what he had
done. He succeeded so well that another painter,
chancing to see the sketches he had made, took
him to Antwerp, introduced him to the Academy,
where in two years he carried off all the prizes, and
soon attained the excellence we saw.

We also went to see the works of Overbeck, the
German painter, who only received visitors on
Sundays or saints' days. We found his rooms
thronged with people, examining a number of
cartoons, and one or two designs in chiaroscuro.
The painter was present— a thin figure, past the
middle age, and looking as if he himself had walked
out of a frame, so quaint and picturesque was his
costume. It was difficult, on account of the crowd,
to examine attentively any of the subjects, but
they seemed to be fuU of religious feehng, and a
serious majesty that was very pleasing. A cartoon
of The Wise and FooHsh Virgins represented an
old subject treated in a very original manner. A
large sketch in brown of a picture (I think sent to
Dusseldorf) contained portraits of the most cele-
brated old masters.

One of the most curious collections we visited
was at Pesaro, where we went to see the Cavaliere

A JOYLESS COLLECTOR 69

Massa's Urbino porcelain, or Raphael ware. The
plates were nailed against the waU hke pictures,
some of them framed. The whole suite of apart-
ments was decorated in this manner. The owner,
a man of ninety-four, sat motionless and soUtary in
one of the rooms, with his back to the waU, in a
melancholy state of helplessness and imbecility.
How sad to outlast one's faculties, still sadder to
outUve wife, children, friends, and be thus, in the
extremity of old age, alone ! I felt almost dis-
gusted with collections of art and virtu, thus power-
less to amuse, serving only to expose the joyless
possessor to the pity of strangers.

At Rome we, of course, went to numberless
studios. Well do I recall that of Flatz, a painter who
had a studio at the top of the Sala Palace. He
was a most sympathetic man, and told us his simple
history. In his younger days he had been a father,
but wife and children were all dead, and he now
lived only for his beloved art. on which, together
with his pupU — Fink, a Ti^plese — he bestowed
aU his affections. He was painting an enormous
pictiure for a convent in Schwatz, in the T3n:ol, for
which his remuneration was to be very sHght, for
the monks were poor. Deeply imbued, however,
with reUgion and love of art, he preferred making
an offering of his very best to sending work merely
proportionate to his pay. The whole appearance
of his studio, so orderly and clean, with his few
cartoons and studies, his shelf of grave and well-
worn books, his neat and plain dress and furniture,
betokened the hermit-like character of the man.

70 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Here was no air of fashion or vestiges of lounging
amateurs avid of sketches of favourite models
or fashionable beauties. His was an art which
sprung more from mind and feeling than from
Hving nature — intellectual and spiritual rather than
physical beauty was his aim.

Other studios which we frequented were those
of Macdonald (who had just completed a pleasing
bust of Mrs. Somerville, the paragon of female
learning of her day, whom, as a great privilege, I
was taken to see), Rinaldi, a pupil of Canova, Finelli,
and Gibson, who was at work on a bust of Queen
Victoria, preparatory to making a whole-length
figure. From Roerich, a German caster in bronze,
my father ordered a cast of the celebrated Dancing
Faun. Blaise, a Tyrolese artist, painted my
mother's portrait ; he had done some pretty
sketches of spots in the grounds of the Villa
Borghese, and was considered a good artist.

Tenerani was another sculptor who enjoyed a
great vogue. He had just finished a colossal
statue of the Angel of the Last Judgment for the
tomb of the Duchessa di Lanti ; and another
colossal statue of the King of Naples, to be put up
at Messina, had just returned from Munich, where
King Ludwig had desired it might be sent to be
cast in bronze at his foundry.

Buckner, then a very young man, drew my
portrait. He possessed the talent of beautifying
his sitters amazingly, and therefore enjoyed an
assured popularity.
, Very unattractive was Lord Compton's studio,

CARDINAL GUISEPPE ZACCHiEA 71

which was disappointing by its bareness and lack
of taste. There were, however, signs of talent,
which were perhaps more to the purpose. His
rough sketches of scenes in Sicily were clever,
though they showed lack of study.

At that time we had apartments in the Palazzo
Valiambrini. The works of art in the Vatican
were a never-faiUng source of dehght to us, and my
youthful attention was, I remember, particularly
drawn to the Minerva Pudicitia, whose face bears
a stern and proud expression. The drapery is
beautiful. It had an especial interest for us on
account of the statue of Lady Walpole in West-
minster Abbey being modelled after it.

Especially did we admire the statue of St.
Bruno, by HoudoUj in the vestibule of the Church
of Santa Maria degU Angeli. This statue, much
larger than life, was a great favourite with Clement
XIV, who used to say it would speak if the rules of
the Order did not forbid.

At that time, of course, the Pope was actual
ruler of the Papal States. The Governor of Rome,
Cardinal Guiseppe Zacchaea, was very kind to me,
and gave me some relics, amongst others one of
St. Dorothy, which I still have. A sketch of this
governor, in his quaint costume of a past age, is
also amongst my treasured possessions, recalling as
it does many happy days amidst old-world surround-
ings and customs, now for ever passed away.

Under Papal rule, aU the of&cial personages
of the Holy City were priests of some grade or
other. Not a few resembled certain of our modern

72 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

politicians in one respect, which was that they
would fill any office tendered to them, even to the
command of the Roman navy, if such a force had
existed.

In the course of our sojourn we were intro-
duced to mpst of the English who were more or less
permanent residents. The best known of these was
General Ramsay, a rather portly old gentleman,
who exercised a sort of absolute rule amongst
English visitors to the Eternal City. He was
always accompanied by a favourite poodle, which
never left him. So much so was this the case that
people habitually spoke of General Ramsay and
his dog as if they were one entity. Of original
character, the general had a peculiarly designed
visiting card, on which his poodle was represented
near a portfolio bearing his owner's name, the
background filled with fragments of some ruined
edifice of classical design.

The Eternal City was then a very different place
to what it is to-day, when practical and utilitarian
alterations have robbed it of much of its charm.
Besides this, nearly aU the state and elaborate
ceremonial of the days of Papal rule have dis-
appeared.

After Easter Day the illumination of St. Peter's
was a particularly beautiful sight. All the outlines
of the building and colonnades were first illuminated
with paper lanterns ; and we were early enough
to see this gradually done as the twilight deepened
into darkness. On the striking of the great bell
to announce the second hour of the night, a

ST. PETER'S BY NIGHT 73

thousand torches, dispersed over the edifice, burst,
as if by magic, into a blaze, as if noonday had
suddenly succeeded to the pale light of the stars.
Nothing could be more startling and beautiful. We
afterwards drove to the Pincio, to see St. Peter's
from thence. It had the appearance of a fairy
palace. I thought the effect most beautiful from
the Ponte St. Angelo, whence the paper lanterns
looked like an outline of burnished silver sur-
rounding the golden light of the torches. To
illuminate the baU and cross was a work of so much
danger that the workmen confessed and took the
sacrament before they went up, and, we were told,
were persuaded that if they should be kUled in so
holy a work, they would go straight to Paradise.
Accidents, however, seldom occurred; but it was
very nervous work watching the placing of the paper
lanterns by men hanging to ropes, and looking no
larger than spiders at the end of their threads.

Of course we went to see the Colosseum by
moonlight, and a large party we were. On our
way we found all the chandlers' shops illuminated
very brilliantly, the bacon adorned with strips of
coloured paper and coarse gilding, the butter
moulded into various devices, one of which was
an extremely well executed Pieta — the Virgin
being in pale butter, the dead body in yellower.
The group was tastefully placed on a mound of turf,
besprinkled with daisy-roots in blossom. We had
torches to ascend the ruins, and got as high as
the plebeian range of seats, a giddy eminence
now that no railing or breastwork exists, where

74 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

in many places large holes startle the unwary, and
great masses have fallen down, leaving but a
narrow footing. The oval shape of the amphi-
theatre, and its immense size, showed well from
above. Parts of it are in wonderful preservation,
and I have no doubt it would have remained
nearly perfect to this day had man left it alone.

Altogether, what with excursions to ancient
monuments, visits to studios, and pleasant friends,
I passed many happy days in the "Eternal City,"
then little touched by the modernising hands which
have since so altered its aspect. One of our great
friends was M. de la Tour Maubourg of the French
Embassy. Cardinal Guiseppe Zacchsea and General
Ramsay, of whom I spoke before, were everything
that was nice to me — so much so was this the case
that my cousin, George Cadogan, drew Uttle pictures
of them on a letter which is reproduced. The top-
most climber of the design, I should add, represents
Dwarkanauth Tagore,^ a distinguished Indian well
known in society years ago. He took a great fancy
to my sister and myself, and I still treasure a coral
necklace which this agreeable Oriental gave me
shortly before he died.

The people of Rome used to be very fond of
pleasure, but highly superstitious.

At the end of the carnival the Corso was one
long blaze of moving lights with the " moccoli " —
small waxen tapers — which every one carried, whilst
at the same time trying to extinguish those of
others, and keeping their own alight.

' The subject of one of Count D'Orsay's most successful portraits.

XE C'OifT^ ^fi

9,

% .V

A PRETTY LETTER

►Cairijiof.

THE SWISS GUARD 75

During one of our daylight visits to the Colos-
seum a monk was preaching with great gesticulation.
He reproached the people, gathered in numbers
in the large area, with their negligence in refusing
to avaU themselves of " the bath of our Saviour's
blood," a homely but powerful expression. Then,
holding up a crucifix, every one of his hearers fell
on his knees on the damp ground, and the men
uncovered their heads. In the subsequent pro-
cession from altar to altar the large black cross
was carried by a very weU dressed woman.
We walked round the galleries of the Colosseum,
saw the spot where HeUogabalus was murdered,
traced the imperial entrance, and saw many a
beautiful fragment of piUar and pUaster with
its green crown of ivy and the dehcate leaved
finocchio.

Though the Pope has ceased to leave the Vatican
since he was stripped of his temporal power, within
the precincts of his voluntary prison things are
much as they were of old, and the Swiss Guard
still keep watch and ward in their beautiful old-
world costume, in' which but slight modifications
have been made. I beUeve, however, that they
no longer wear a hat with feathers, which formed
part of their equipment at the time of our visit
some sixty-fiye years ago.

Many a happy hour did we spend in St. Peter's,
enjoying its delicious temperature, which never
varies, whether the Tramontana chiUs or the
Sirocco burns without. Wandering among the
grand monuments of the popes, lost in pleasing

76 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

reverie, one realised the impressive nature of
this marvellous building, so fuU of varied details,
and forming so perfect a whole ! So vast is it,
that however numerous the concourse of people
(on ordinary days), one may always find a place to be
alone. Tiie groups we saw were curious enough.
Here a procession of priests in their rich dresses —
there a train of youths in white surplices, kneeling
round the tomb of St. Peter, where lights are ever
burning. At some favourite altar men and women
in picturesque costumes, kneehng and telling their
beads; on the steps of another a man making
brooms ; farther off, on a bench, two or three more
asleep; parties of EngUsh, with the never-failing
handbook, listening to the music, and talking
loud, or a solitary amateur in raptures before the
masterpiece of Canova, the glorious tomb of
Clement xiii. There is a great deal of miser-
able sculpture in St. Peter's — monuments in bad
taste, and faults in the architecture, which even
an unlearned eye can detect ; but as a whole it is
a glorious place.

EngUsh tourists were great offenders in the
way of chipping off portions of old monuments,
and writing their names in all sorts of inappropriate
places. One individual created a most unplea-
sant impression in Norway. He took the trouble
to be rowed out to beneath a certain famous cUff
in an indiarubber boat, and, when he arrived there,
the man with him held the boat tight with a rope
while the Briton paddled over the pool. Without
looking at the stupendous column which rose from

AN IMPUDENT SCOTCHMAN 77

where he was to the clouds, he pulled out of his
pocket a small pot of white paint and forthwith
commenced painting his initials on the rock, to
prove, as he said, that he had been there !

Probably, however, a Scotch tourist afforded
the greatest instance of impudence on record.
This man, whilst in an ItaUan city, stopped a re-
ligious procession in order to Ught his cigar from
one of the holy candles. Before the procession
had recovered from its astonishment the audacious
smoker had disappeared.

The dignified and impressive surroundings which
are connected with the audiences given by a Pope
not infrequently completely disconcert visitors who
are accorded such a privilege. A weU-known
piUar of society, noted for his self-possession in
ordinary life, being at one of these audiences, did
not answer a single word when addressed
by Leo xiii. " Why did you not make any reply
to his Hohness ? " inquired a friend as they were
leaving the precincts of the Vatican. " To teU
you the truth," was the avowal, " I could not for
the hfe of me remember whether I ought to say
saint pere or sacri. pere, and so thought it best to
hold my tongue."

When Sir WiUiam Harcourt, at that time
Chancellor of the Exchequer, was on a visit to Rome,
he was shown over the Vatican Library by an
Enghsh student who had perpetual permission to
make researches there. As they were leaving,
one of the Vatican of&cials inquired who the dis-
tinguished stranger might be. " The EngUsh

78 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Minister of Finance," was the reply. " Ah, I under-
stand," said the Itahan, " II Conde HaUfato."
He took Sir William, staunch pillar of Protestantism
as he was, for Lord Halifax, whose name was well
known at the Vatican.

Ill

The cult of gardens — A sensible bailiff — Old Hampshire ways —
Cardinal Manning — Bishop Wilberforce — His son — Mr. Cobden —
Letters — A scandal about Lord Palmerston — Samuel Warren
— Letter " franks " — Dicky Doyle — Some unpublished drawings
— Geology and botany — Digging for the infinite-^Mr. Edmund
Gosse — Letters from Mr. Darwin.

DURING the mid-Victorian Era the cult of
gardens had fallen somewhat into decay,
horticulture being then regarded rather
from a utilitarian point of view, whilst little effort
was made to produce colour effects such as are now
so thoroughly understood. The herbaceous border,
except in rare instances, was unknown, whilst
carpet bedding with squares, stars, cubes, and
triangles of differently coloured flowers, was in
high favour. Altogether gardening from an artistic
point of view was little understood. Nevertheless,
there were a number of very interesting gardens,
one in particular, at Carshalton, belonging to
Mr. Smee, and another near Weybridge, to which a
clever friend of mine, Mr. Wilson, devoted much
care and study. These, however, were gardens
belonging to scientific men, and the general run
of people troubled themselves little about their
flowers, being well content if their gardeners fur-

8o UNDER FIVE REIGNS

nished them with a sufficient supply — pergolas,
rock gardens, and the like were caviare to such as
these.

The general popularisation of gardening in its
best form has been principally due to the admirable
books on the subject written by experienced people
like Miss JekyU, clever Mrs. Earle, and Mr. Robinson.
Women in particular seem to have developed a real
aptitude for artistic horticulture, several of them,
like Lord Wolseley's daughter at Glynde, being
thoroughly practical gardeners, able to give most
valuable and expert instruction. For this reason
the garden has come to be looked upon rather as a
special province of woman, who, as a matter of fact,
can scarcely be better occupied than in the cultiva-
tion of flowers, which have ever been associated
with feminine charm.

Personally I always appreciated the herbaceous
border, and I introduced something of the sort into
our garden long before it had become generally
popular. Other of my delights were our hot-
houses, which were celebrated in Hampshire. So
much so was this the case that parties of people used
to come specially to view them, who were formed into
groups, and conducted round by gardeners specially
detailed for the purpose. Most of the prominent
horticulturists of the day either came to see the
rare plants we had gathered together, or corre-
sponded with us about them. Amongst others,
Mr. Darwin wrote me many letters, some of which
wUl be given in this chapter.

Besides my garden I had many other things

A SENSIBLE MAN 8i

with which to pass my time, including a model

farm with a Dutch dairy, situated amidst the lovely

surroundings. In a little wooded hoUow, not far

from the house, stood a fair-sized cottage, and

here I estabhshed a model laundry, where a certain

number of poor girls were trained for domestic

service, not always, I am bound to say, with very

satisfactory results. The recollection of one

matron, who was anything but fond of supervision,

lingers with me yet. She was always anxious as to

when we were going to return to London, and in

honeyed though anxious tones would inquire, " I

hope we are not going to lose your ladyship yet ? "

Our baihff was a fine specimen of the English

yeoman of other days. He lived tiU about a year

or two ago. After Mr. Nevill's death, when our

estate was sold, he set up farming on his own

account. Much is heard of agricultural depression,

but it does not seem to have affected him, for he

left a very comfortable fortune when he died

not so very long ago. UnHke many others, he

adhered to the simple mode of life which he had

practised when he first came to us more than half

a century ago.

When we first went to live in Hampshire, the

beautiful country close to us on the borders of

Surrey was far more wild and rural than is to-day

the case. Liss, where now are mtiltitudes of villas,

was quite a tiny place, and parts of the district

remained in much the same condition as they had

been in for centuries. On the other side of us

loomed the restful outlines of the South Downs,
6

82 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

between which and our home, called Dangstein,
the gently undulating country abounded in peace-
ful-looking homesteads, well-farmed fields, and
delightful woods, here and there intersected by the
swift flowing Rother, in places the most picturesque
of streams. The countryside was wrapped in the
peaceful semi-slumber which had prevailed with
but short interruptions since the advent of the
Conqueror's knights, many of whom slept their
last long sleep beneath the stones of the quaint
old village churches, as yet little affected by the
destructive craze for the most part miscalled
" restoration."

Alas ! as the nineteenth century began to wane,
sinister signs of destruction began to manifest
themselves in most of the village churchyards,
which became encumbered with sheds and tool
huts, whilst workmen hammered and hacked the
old churches according to the whims and fancies of
iconoclastic architects.

Rogate Church near us (in its untouched
condition an ideal old Enghsh village church) was
almost completely stripped of its picturesqueness
by such vandals, who, in addition to robbing the
church of much that was interesting to the lovers
of the past, also contrived to mingle the grave-
stones of those buried in the churchyard in such
inextricable confusion that the tombstones of one
family were in some cases either re-erected over
the graves of others or, worse stOl, lost altogether.
This gross carelessness naturally produced much
irritation amongst surviving relatives of the dead.

THE STOCKS 83

Many old ways and customs still prevailed in
the neighbourhood, and as late as June 1859 the
town of Midhurst witnessed the somewhat brutal
sight of " a man in the stocks " for six hours, for
non-pajrment of the trumpery fine of five shillings
for being drunk. The culprit was rather noisy
at the commencement of his durance vile ; but,
as the hours wore on, his enjoyment of exposure
— forced and fixed — to an easterly wind, although
accompanied with sunshine, did not increase.
The stocks, were placed in the market-place, in
order that the exhibition should be as public as
possible. In justice to the occasional bystanders,
it was reported that they appeared to enjoy the
spectacle as little as the offender himself.

The clergy, though many were kindly and earnest
men, were quite different to the energetic clerics
of to-day. They had, however, very queer parish-
ioners to deal with in those days, before universal
education was thought of. A certain vicar, whom
I remember, whose spiritual activity was rather
ahead of his age, was upbraiding one of his rustic
parishioners for lax attendance at church, whilst
holding up another yokel who chanced to be
standing by as an example.

"You always come to church. Tommy, don't
you ? " said the good man.

" Yes, sir, indeed I do. It's just beautiful, for
when I gets there I puts my feet upon the bench
and thinks a nothing."

A good many people thought practically of
" nothing " in those days, but not a few thought

84 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

a very great deal. Such a one was Cardinal
Manning, who used to Uve near us when rector of
West Lavington Church, in the churchyard of
which Richard Cobden lies. This church was
originally built in order to supplement the older
Lavington Church, close to the walls of which
his brotfier-in-law. Bishop Wilberforce, is buried.
It was in West Lavington Church, on the Sunday
after Cobden' s funeral, that Thorold Rogers, then
a clergyman of the Church of England, preached
a sermon in memory of his friend. In the same
church, some fifteen years before. Manning had
preached his last sermon in Anglican orders.

The grandfather of Cardinal Manning, I have
heard, lived within a few doors of Mr. Basevi, the
grandfather of Lord Beaconsfield, in BiUiter Square,
and there is a tradition that the ancestors of the
great statesman and of the Cardinal were friends.
William Manning himself, a bank director by
profession, is said to have had Jewish blood in his
veins. Anyhow, he had not Jewish shrewdness,
for he failed in business. His firm, originally
Manning & Vaughan, was highly respected, and
much sympathy was expressed at its failure. The
house in which Mr. Manning lived was at No. 8
BiUiter Square, a typical City merchant's abode,
and had been built in the early part of the
eighteenth century. It was puUed down about
1877, when the mahogany doors, panelling, and
chimney-piece were removed to a mansion in
South Audley Street, where possibly they stiU
remain.

" ABIDE WITH ME " 85

It is rather a curious fact that Cardinal Manning
it was who administered the last consolations of
religion to Mr. Lyte, author of the beautiful hymn,
" Abide with me." Mr. Lyte was at Nice at a
time when there was no English clergyman or
chaplain, but as it happened, Mr. Manning, then
Archdeacon of Chichester, happened to arrive in
the place, and soothed the latt moments of the
author of what is, perhaps, the most appealing
hymn ever written.

I knew the good Cardinal pretty weU, and
used sometimes to go and see him in his last days
in London. He asked me to find out from Lord
Randolph Churchill some details of a BiU in which
he was interested. I obtained a copy of the
draft of this for him, and in return received the
following —

Archbishop's House
Westminster, S.W.
zyth January 1890
Dear Lady Dorothy, — I thank you for your
kindness in sending me Lord Randolph ChurchiU's
draft Bill ; and I would ask you to thank him in
my name.

He has evidently given great attention to
the subject, which is one of the most vital to the
welfare of the people. The Drink Trade and bad
housing have destroyed their domestic Ufe. And
when this is gone, neither Criminal Law nor Edu-
cation can save us : for the domestic life of the
people is the foundation of the Commonwealth.

86 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

I wiU do my best to understand the Bill. — Believe
me, yours faithfully,

Henry E., Card. Archbp.

Having known Cardinal Manning in his self-
sacrificing life, I went to pay a last tribute of
respect at his funeral service, which was celebrated
at the Brompton Oratory. Unfortunately it was
disturbed by a most disgraceful incident, which I
witnessed with much pain — a well-dressed woman
being in such a state of intoxication that she had
to be removed by two policemen, after making
herself most disagreeable to two ladies, close to
whom she had insisted upon taking up her position.
The scandalous interruption in question seemed
the more distressing, owing to the fact that, during
the good Cardinal's lifetime, the cause of temper-
ance had been one of those social reforms for which
he had fought with strenuous fervour.

Curiously enough, both Cardinal Manning and
Bishop Wilberforce, whom I also knew, were
connected through their wives with a Sussex
tragedy, which in the past had created great
stir.

In the early part of the last century a highway-
man, or rather a footpad, infested the roads be-
tween Arundel and Chichester, and eased the
farmers of their purses as they returned home from
market, with the result that he became a terror
to the western part of the county. This man's
name was Allen, and he had been a footman in the
service of the Lennox family. His robberies

BISHOP WILBERFORCE 87

became so frequent that eventually the militia
were called out to effect his capture, and at last
he was pressed so closely that he took refuge in a
pond at Graffham, near Midhurst. His pursuers,
however, discovered him, and a young Mr. Sargent,
a son of a neighbouring landowner, who was a fine
young man, and a captain in the gth Regiment of
Foot, called upon the man by name to give himself
up. The reply was a shot from Allen's pistol,
which laid the unfortunate officer dead on the
spot, after which a volley from the soldiers
killed the robber. The nieces of young Sargent
were co-heiresses of the Lavington estate, and it
was their fate to become the wives of Samuel
Wilberforce, Bishop of Oxford and of Winchester,
and of Henry Manning, in latter years a Cardinal of
the Church of Rome.

Bishop Wilberforce was a man of most con-
ciliatory spirit, and the grace with which he held
a sort of balancing pole on the tight-rope of widely
divergent views earned for him the nickname of
Soapy Sam. For a time he would appear to tend
towards Ritualism, and then with a spring reseat
himself in public favour, at that time not too
favourable to the High Church movement. On the
whole the good Bishop leaned towards the latter,
but, as I have said, held the scale most evenly
between High and Low as an ecclesiastic of his
high sense of justice should do.

As a friend the good Bishop was one of the
most charming and agreeable personalities I ever
met, whilst his powers as a preacher were extra-

88 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

ordinary. These have in some degree been in-
herited by his son, the present Archdeacon of
Westminster, who is also a friend of mine, and I have
passed very pleasant hours as a guest at his hospit-
able board, which have by no means been impaired
by the complete absence of every form of alcohol
from his table, for the Archdeacon is a teetotaller
of the most staunch description. Once when he
was at death's door he resolutely declined the
entreaties of doctors to imbibe a little stimulant,
and much to their surprise triumphantly recovered.

Within the last year a great grief has clouded
the Archdeacon's life, his beloved wife having
been taken from him, to the great sorrow of many
friends, who appreciated the bond of mutual love
by which this sympathetic couple were bound.

There were not many Radicals in Hampshire in
the days when we lived in that county, or if there
were, most of them kept pretty quiet. The lot of
those of independent views in the past was not a
very happy one, for they had to contend against
circumstances and the jealousy of neighbours, and
the doubts and indifference of friends and relations ;
above all, against the pride and superciliousness of
the local gentry, which set its face against their
principles.

Mr. Cobden, for instance, though not as
extreme as these, was practically boycotted by
the squirearchy who lived in his neighbourhood.
He was, however, a man of most independent char-
acter, and cared nothing at all for this. In later
years when his high-minded character and single-

COBDEN'S AMUSEMENTS 89

ness of purpose began to be recognised> the Duke of
Richmond offered to make him a Deputy Lieutenant,
but this he refused to accept. With old Lord Lecon-
field, known as the King of West Sussex, he was on
better terms, and the latter used to send him game.

For shooting, or indeed for sport of any kind,
he cared not at all, nor did he take any interest in
games. The practical side of gardening also had
no attractions for him, but he loved Sussex, and
enjoyed the country as a place of rest from the
turmoil of political life. About the only amuse-
ment for which I think he manifested the slightest
liking was billiards, and he was fond enough of an
occasional game, in which he resembled Mr. Lowe.

Though Mr. Cobden, owing to his pohtical
opinions, was perhaps hardly popular in his own
county, he loved everything connected with it,
and even regarded an opponent, provided he were
a Sussex man, with a feehng of cordiaUty. There
was, for instance, a good deal of kindly feehng
between him and Lord Henry Lennox.

The following letter alludes to this —

DuNFORD, zoth November 1867

My Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — Some
friends are coming to stay with me on Friday for a
few days, and I am sorry that my wife and I can't
accept your kind invitation. There is one of your
expected guests with whom I should have hked
very much to have had a quiet gossip about things
in general at Dangstein. My friend, who is coming
with his quaker wife to see me, is a member of this.

go UNDER FIVE REIGNS

good-for-nothing government (Mr. Gilpin of the
Poor Law Board), and therefore must not join the
t6te-a-t6te with Lord Hy. Lennox, but pray tell
the latter that if he can contrive to ride across the
county, to call on me, we wiU contrive to have a
little treason together. He and I have generally
voted in opposite lobbies, as you know, but yet
there has been a certain geniahty between us, — I
suppose because we are Sussex men ; for in these
days of " nationalities," people of the same county
become in a certain sense partisans. My wife sends
her kind regards and thanks. — With best comph-
ments to Mr. Nevill, I remain, very truly yours,

R. COBDEN

With Mr. Nevill and myself he was on the best
of terms, and we used to see a good deal of him, for
he came often to visit us, and I used to go to Dun-
ford. In my former volume of reminiscences
I have given several of his letters — these, however,
were more or less serious in tone, whereas the
following is in a different vein —

DuNFORD, 2()th October 1863

My Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — Many
thanks for your kind present of a hare and a brace
of pheasants, which reached whilst I was absent
in London, filling for the first and last time in my
life the post of chairman at a pubhc dinner at the
City of London Tavern. Otherwise I should have
thanked you sooner.

I suppose you have heard of the extravagant

A SCANDALOUS RUMOUR 91

and incredible scandal about which, everybody is
talking in London — no less than a charge of crim
con against old Lord P. — just as he enters his
8oth year ! The account that I hear is as follows,
but, of course, I don't believe a word of it —

It is said there is a suit commenced in the Divorce
Court, in which the wife of an Irish parson named
O'Kane is respondent and Lord P. co-respondent, —
that letters from Ld. P. to the Lady are in the hands
of the plaintiff, and that bank notes which have
passed from him, Ld. P., to her have been traced, — ■
that the damages are laid at ^£20,000, — that the
affair is so recent as the last three months, — and
the name of the plaintiff's solicitor is given ; — aU
this and a great deal more was told me when I
was in London, by a highly credible person, who
said he got his information from a clerk in the
Divorce Court through whose hands all the papers
had passed. If Bernal Osborne is in London, he
ought to teU you all about it. The most knowing
people in the Clubs say there is something in it. But
it is too monstrous ! — Ever yours truly,

R. COBDEN

As a matter of fact, there was nothing in this
scandalous rumour. It is characteristic of Mr.
Cobden's generous character that though he was
in every way opposed to Lord Palmerston, he would
not for one moment credit the reports circulated by
malicious rumour, and, thinking it monstrous, would
not believe a word.

Though from time to time attacks of aU sorts

92 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

were levelled against Lord Palmerston and his
ways, there was one thing connected with him which
every one agreed to be above all criticism, and this
was his knowledge of good cooking.

A distinguished diplomat, it was said, after a
dinner at Cambridge House, once very much
astonished some one who had dehvered a violent
tirade against Palmerstonian methods, by quietly
remarking, " Peut-6tre, mais on dine fort bien chez
lui," whilst one of his most violent parliamentary
opponents wrote, "Lord Palmerston is redeemed
from the last extremity of political degradation by
his cook."

I weU remember Lord Palmerston, and the de-
Ughtful parties which he and his most clever wife
used to give at the mansion in Piccadilly, which is
now the Naval and Military Club. He was pos-
sessed of a faculty for apt phrases, and I think
was the author of the famous definition of dirt, as
being only "matter in the wrong place."

Lord Palmerston had such an objection to
smoking that he wrote a sharp rebuke to the
young attaches at Constantinople because their
dispatches smelt of tobacco, and desired the
Ambassador to have the notice stuck up in
the office, and to see that its injunctions were
attended to.

An extraordinary hatred of tobacco character-
ised many great men of the past.

Goethe hated tobacco. Balzac, the great French
romantic writer, could not bear it under any shape
or form — pipes, cigars, and snuff were equally

NON-SMOKERS 93

abhorrent to his feelings. He, however, took
coffee to excess. Henry Heine did not smoke, but
Byron did. Neither Victor Hugo nor Alexandre
Dumas ever smoked ; while, on the other hand,
Alfred de Musset, Eugene Sue, George Sand,
Merim^e, Paul de St. Victor, and others, smoke or
did smoke. It is said that it was one of Balzac's
mysterious and fair friends who imposed upon him
this supposed antipathy to tobacco.

On the other hand, Lord Clarendon and the
first Lord Lytton were both great smokers ; the
latter, it was said, a far more inveterate smoker
than any character described in his works.

Smokers of another age often used china cigar-
holders. My cousin, Lord Abergavenny, remembers
having seen my father-in-law, the Hon. George
Nevill, born 1760, smoking a cigar through a china
holder, about the most uncomfortable method of
smoking possible. These old-fashioned china cigar-
holders were often elaborately painted. I fancy
that they have now become rare.

Except Mr. Cobden, as far as I remember, not
very many politicians lived near us in the country,
but Samuel Warren (the author of Ten Thousand
a Year, which in its tirne created such a sensation),
whom I knew very well, once stood as a red-hot
Conservative for Midhurst, and got in. A Mr.
Davis had been a most active worker in his interest,
and when Warren was triumphantly elected, he
said, " Well done, Davis, you shall have my first
frank."

At that time members of Parliament and

94 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

peers had the right of franking letters, that is to
say, they wrote their names upon the envelopes,
which then went through the post free. As far
as I remember, they were limited to a certain
amount a day, but I fancy they often exceeded
this. My father was always being bothered to
frank letters for economically-minded or impe-
cunious people, and I remember that on one
occasion, when we were in Norfolk, he being
away, a member of the household actually went
so far as to copy his handwriting and produce a
fraudulent frank which, as a matter of fact, was,
I believe, an offence which made the pepetrator
liable to very severe punishment. People had a
positive mania for getting their lelters franked. I
once thought of making a collection of old franked
envelopes, and I have a few stUl. My great friend.
Lady Chesterfield, however, formed a very large and
interesting collection, which I suppose is at Bretby.

Samuel Warren is chiefly remembered for his
literary work; but he was a clever barrister, and
very effective as a cross-examiner, especially on
one occasion. A case as to the presumed forgery
of a wiU was being tried, and the highly respectable
individual who was to profit, were the will declared
valid, put in the box. Taking up the will and
placing his thumb over the place where such docu-
ments have a seal, Warren said —

" I understand you saw the testator sign this_
will, and acted as a witness ? "

" I did."

" Was it sealed with red or black wax ? "

DICKY DOYLE 95

"With red."

" You saw it sealed with red ? "

"Yes."

" The testator was, I understand, in bed when
he signed and sealed this will. Pray how long
was the piece of sealing wax he used ? "

" About three inches long."

" And who gave the testator the piece of wax ? "

" I did."

In reply to further questioning the witness
averred that he had, from the drawer of the
testator's desk, obtained the wax which had been
melted by a candle out of a cupboard in the room,
lit by a match from the mantelshelf. The candle,
he said, was four or five inches long.

Mr. Warren now paused, and holding up the wUl,
recapitulated the evidence, ending up with : " Once
more, sir, upon your solemn oath you did all this?"

" I did," was the reply.

" My lord," said Warren, turning to the judge
and removing his thumb, " you will observe this
will is sealed with a wafer.

Mr. Richard Doyle — Dicky Doyle, as he was
familiarly called — ^the well-known artist, was a
frequent guest at our Hampshire home. On one
occasion, when he had set out with Sir William
Harcourt to catch a train at Petersfield station,
a wheel of his fly broke, in consequence of which
he and his fellow-traveller were considerably de-
layed on their journey to town. Shortly afterwards
he sent me some humorous pen-and-ink sketches of
his adventures, together with the following letter —

96 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Thursday, April i8th, 1867

Dear Lady Dorothy, — I must send you
some account of our adventures on Monday last
after leaving Dangstein. Our fly broke down, and
we did not reach Petersfield tUl long after the
train had gone, and had to wait two hours at the
station. *But there is always a compensation in
things — on the one hand we both wished to get
to London early, and were disappointed, but then
we had time to inspect the town of Petersfield,
its Church and its equestrian statue, we were
able to purchase no end of newspapers ; and another
extenuating circiimstance was that the Holfords
arrived for the next train and came with us to
town. — Yours very sincerely,

Richard Doyle

As a rule, when we had visitors stajdng with us,
much time was spent in the gardens, where I had a
special enclosure for the Ailanthus silkworm, in
which I took great interest, besides many horti-
cultural curiosities interesting to scientific people.
During such walks the air would resound with
mysterious music produced by my pigeons, to
whose tails Chinese pigeon whistles had been
attached. The late Professor Owen was much
struck with these, as the following shows —

^yd November 1874
Dear Lady Dorothy,— So far from forgetting
you, it was but yesterday I was describing your
grove of Ailanthus and your magic music of the

DRAGONS 97

air, and somewhat sadly thinking such ephemeral
visits, with glimpses of your paradise, must soon
pass away from the memory of the Mistress-creative
genius of the place !

I pass daily, pendulum-wise, between Sheen
and Bloomsbury, Uving two Uves, my vegetative
one in the elm-shaded cottage, my intellectual Hfe at
the British Museum. Most of my sunny holidays are
memories and hopes. WiU a grateful country ever
pension me off ? Shall I ever be free to go whither
I would ? More than doubtful, experiencing as I
daily more and more do the strong puU of dragons.

But I will bear the truly kind and hospitable
wish of Mr. NeviU and yourself in grateful memory,
and show my sense of it by fulfilling those wishes :
trusting, some April or May day, I may see you
both as well as when I last was at Dangstein, and
be in as good condition as I was when I enjoyed its
hospitahty. — Most truly yours,

Richard Owen

Professor Owen used to talk much to me of
the prehistoric dragons in which he took such
an interest, and had some years before sent me a
carefuUy executed drawing of one of these queer
Pterodactyls —

Sheen Lodge, Richmond Park
^th August 1869
Dear Lady Dorothy, — The dragon was de-
spatched to teU of my return home before I received
the evidence of your prompt and kind action in
returning the spectacles, which reached me safely,
7

98 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

but it is hardly fair that you should be fined for
my carelessness.

You will have another instance of the need of
flappers for Laputans when you go to church next
Sunday ; only, as the Httle prayer-book has been
worn out, in my service, I would ask that it might
be bestowed on any little boy or girl of that end of
the parish who may think it worth acceptance.

I would tell Mr. Nevill, in relation to economy
of numbers in " half-time " teaching, that in
Switzerland the children are collected at the
practicable ends of the valleys in a large light sort
of wagonette, and returned within easy or practic-
able reach of their homes in the same " Cantonal
vehicle." It is probable that the results to the
morality and intelligence of the rising generation of
a parish might make an " Omnibus " for conveying
children to and from a central school (for a 150)
not a bad investment. — Sincerely yours,

Richard Owen

I beg to be kindly remembered to Miss Nevill.

Both Sir William and Sir Joseph Hooker were great
friends of mine, and Sir William did me the honour
of dedicating a volume of the Botanical Magazine
to me, at which time he wrote a charming letter —

Royal Gardens, Kew
Nov. nth, 1857
My Dear Lady Dorothy, —

I think I must claim to myself something of a

A SIAMESE REQUEST 99

prophetic spirit in dedicating that particular volume
of the Bot. Magazine to you, which contains the figure
of the Aralia papyxifera, thereby indicating that you
also would soon have the honour of flowering it.
When I penned the httle dedication I knew you
deserved the trifling compliment, but I am much more
conscious of that now that I have seen Dangstein. And
what I admire in your Ladyship more even than your
love of plants, is your great desire that others should
partake in the pleasure of seeing these beauties of
nature's creating, improved by the art of man.

I am afraid it is the case that only fruits are
admitted into the horticultural shows at this
season — but I have written to ask. If you do not
hear further from me in a day or two you will take
for granted that flowers are not admitted. If they
are I will write to say so.

I was to have dined to-day with the Duchess
of Orleans and the Comte de Paris ; but last night
on my return from paying my respects to the
Siamese ambassadors I found a note from the
Marquis de Beauvois giving me the astounding
news of the death of the Duchesse de Nemours.
How terribly that family is tried with sorrow.

You will smile at the appUcation of the
premier ^ King of Siam for a plant from our Gardens
— the Lombardy Poplar ! ! which would neither
bear the voyage, nor grow with their awful heat.
I beUeve too he expects a full-grown one. — Most
truly and faithfully, my dear Lady Dorothy, yours,

W. J. Hooker

1 There was then a dual kingship in Siam.

100 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Sir William took much interest in my method of
preparing skeleton leaves, and also in the cult of
silkworms, which was once my especial hobby —

Royal Gardens, Kew
^ April xgth, 1861

My Dear Lady Dorothy, — Our poor friend
Henslow is still lingering on, and we are in daily,
I may truly say hourly, expectation of hearing
of his decease.

You have excelled in preparing skeleton leaves,
I know, and I have seen, I think, some foliage in
the early stage of the operation, in vessels of soft
rain-water, to remove by a putrefying process the
pulpy substance. A lady friend of mine wants to
know the further process for removing all the
decaying matter and leaving the fern in the beauti-
fully clean state when the operation is finished ?

Is it chloride of lime, or some bleaching fluid ?

I have at length a goodly number of cocoons
sent out by the French Govt., to the Ionian
Islands, of the new Chinese silkworm. Your
nephew, I think Mr. Drummond Wolff, Civil
Secretary there, and President of the " Ionian
Association," I presume for the culture of this
insect, has done me the honour to make me an
" honorary Vice-President " of the Society, — I hope
with the understanding that I am never required
to act in that capacity. M. Guerin Meneville, too,
in return for a little service rendered him, has sent
me a most beautiful case with the preserved insects
in all their various stages, and samples of the

^f;-M^^

y^y dJ^aH-^vi^q IV- Ji. £1^1^ KJi: U J-tJL'^ ea't-^xa

y

9

DWARF TREES loi

silk, raw and manufactured, and begged me to
ascertain if our Queen would accept a similar one.
I showed her mine, and she is so charmed that she
has commanded me to inform M. Meneville that
she will graciously accept his offer. I believe
small sets are sold in Paris, and they are extremely
interesting.

I have just sent off another Collector to Japan.
He goes out with Mr. Oliphant, and under the most
favourable auspices. — Yours my dear Lady Dorothy,
most faithfully, W. J. Hooker

A few years later, when some of the first dwarf
trees ever sent from Japan had arrived in this
country. Sir William wrote me a description of
them —

Royal Gardens, Kew
February xst, 1881

My Dear Lady Dorothy, — You are most
generous to me with your game, and your present
just now reminds one of the last Rose of Summer,
only in the Game line.

I have been interested to-day in opening
three Waidian cases, which have come for the
Queen from Japan, and they are to go to the Isle
of Wight. There are some curious dwarfed things
among them, especially Thuja dolabrata with
variegated leaves, and a most remarkably new
Damarra, also with variegated leaves, very singular.
The trunk is thicker than a man's arm, and the
whole tree not a foot and a half high, quite covered
with its handsome foliage and innumerable little

102 undE;r five reigns

crooked branches, the trunk is everywhere grafted,
and every branch grafted again and again, and
every one tied into its place with wire, in such a
manner that no trunk can be seen. Some of the
pines thus dwarfed have died on the passage, and I
wonder everjrthing is not kUled, for scarcely a
pane in the three cases remained unbroken.

Mr. Veitch junr. was at Jeddo when these
came away, and he recommended to the Consul
General what should be sent.

I suspect he has sent home to Exeter and
Chelsea a fine set of things, and he is now himself
on his way home by way of the Philippine
Islands.

I hope neither you nor your plants have
suffered this very severe winter. Many of our
tenderest shrubs look very brown, but I do not
think we have lost much.

With kind regards to Mr. Nevill, believe me, my
dear Lady Dorothy, faithfully yours,

(Signed) W. J. Hooker

Another of our scientific visitors was Sir
Roderick Murchison, who was ever the most
welcome of guests. He was, however, terribly
hard worked, and could get away but little.

Torquay, April 26th, 1859

Dear Lady Dorothy, — I have just got your

kind letter re-inviting me to pay you a visit at

Dangstein, and I am really quite mortified at being

compelled by dire necessity to decline your proposal.

SIR RODERICK MURCHISON 103

I am (as you know, perhaps) President of the
Geographical Society, and it is my business to
prepare a long discourse, etc. — ^the progress of
geography all over the world in the last year, scarcely
one word of which is now written.

In coming here I hoped to do a little in the
holidays, whilst on a visit to Miss Burdett Coutts ;
but my hostess is so hospitable, that what with
dinners and sight-seeing and caverns with fossil
bones, I see that I shall return empty-handed as
regards my geographical concerns. In short I
must slave continuously to get ready for the 23rd
May.

Besides this oppressive nightmare I have to
prepare for the press a long paper on the geology
of the North of Scotland.

You will see from the mere mention of these
hors d'ceuvres (to say nothing of my official duties
as Director of the Geographical Survey), that I am
too much oppressed with work to be able to enjoy
another holy day in the Spring.

With many thanks and my compliments to
Mr. NevUl. — Yours very devotedly,

RODK. E. MURCHISON

Sir Roderick Murchison was, as is after aU but
befitting in a great geologist, a most serious man,
and one who understood no jokes about science.
When Darwin's theory of the origin of species was
arousing great discussion, some one flippantly
remarked that, as far as he could see, there seemed
no particular reason why a jelly-fish, after passing

104 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

through various stages, and transformations,
should not become Archbishop of Canterbury.
Sir Roderick gravely assured him that it was
utterly impossible that any such development
should take place.

The great men of the Victorian Era were, many
of them, very much more serious in their demeanour
than the moderns. They seemed to consider that
any relaxation would impair their dignity. They
were, indeed, so absorbed in their own particular
subjects that even their children became permeated
with the phraseology which was constantly ringing
in their ears.

Some ladies, walking in the garden of an eminent
divine classed amongst the transcendentaUsts, saw
his little boy scraping up the gravel path with
an old spoon. " What are you doing, my little
boy ? " inquired one of the ladies. " Oh," said
the young offshoot of transcendentalism, " I'm
digging after the Infinite."

My friend Mr. Edmund Gosse has given a most
admirable picture of the relations between a clever,
serious father and an equally clever son, though
of a totally different disposition, in his book
Father and Son, one of the most interesting
volumes I ever read.

It has often been remarked how much the
sons of distinguished men differ from their parents ;
and the son of a certain eloquent and philanthropic
leader of the Ten Hours' Movement was no
exception. Before canvassing the electors at Hull,
he was brought forward as a candidate by the

ORCHIDS 105

Church and State interest, who supposed that he
would be as pious as his father. Several clergymen
accompanied him in his canvass, when one of the
electors asked him if he did not think it wrong
of Lord Palmerston to sanction the bombardment
of Canton ? To which the youthful aspirant for
parliamentary honours replied —

" Why, hang it, what could he do ? "
The shock which this gave to his clerical
companions can easily be imagined.

Formerly people in general troubled themselves
very little about horticulture, and great ignorance
prevailed. When orchids first began to be the
rage, there was an amusing story of a traveller
who pretended to have spent some time in Mexico,
and happening to visit a famous private garden
in Florence, the owner, who had a very fine
collection of plants, talked of cactuses, until the
visitor's knowledge, which appeared to be limited,
was totally exhausted. Suddenly, the old
gentleman remarked, " I suppose you must have
seen a great many of the 'Orchids' in Central
America ? " " Why, no," was the reply, " I
didn't go much into society there — in fact, merely
passed through." " Eh ! what ? " inquired the
deaf man, holding his hand to his ear. "No!"
stammered the traveller, " I did not meet any; I
did not go into society at all ! " " Society ! "
screamed his host, " why, bless your soul, you
don't find orchids in society; they grow on
trees ! " This was very much in the style of the
lady who, about the time the first camelopards

io6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

were brought over, was asked by a friend, " Have
you seen the giraffes ? " " No," said she, '' I
don't know them at all ; they are a French family,
I believe ! "

Orchids, insectivorous plants, some of them of a
rare kind» were our especial hobby at Dangstein,
and owing to this I was able to furnish Mr. Darwin
with a good many specimens, which I hke to think
were of use to him in his wonderful researches.
He took a great interest in the contents of our
hothouses, and for years kept up an intermittent
correspondence with me, though I never could
induce him to pay us a visit — he very rarely left
his Kentish home at Down.

Darwin was a man of the utmost simplicity of life,
and his household was a very haven of tranquillity.
On one occasion, when there was a question of my
paying the Darwins a visit of some days, Mrs. Darwin
wrote to me, saying that she understood that those
who moved much in London society were accustomed
to find their country-house visits enlivened by all
sorts of sports and practical jokes — she had read
that tossing people in blankets had become highly
popular as a diversion. " I am afraid," her letter
ended," we should hardly be able to offer you any-
thing of that sort."

I did pay Darwin a visit at Down, but as ill-
luck would have it he was just at this time suffering
from a violent attack of the malady — for it amounted
to that — which he had contracted during his
voyage on the Beagle, when he had become a
martyr to sea-sickness, which never afterwards

MR. DARWIN 107

entirely left him, and throughout his tireless life
of investigation intermittently rendered his exist-
ence a burden.

I carried on a correspondence with Mr. Darwin
for some years, and later on, when I left Hampshire,
he used occasionally to come and see me during visits
to London. Our gardens at Dangstein contained
many curious plants, which were of use to the great-
evolutionist in his researches, and I was only too
proud to furnish him with anything he might require.

Most of Mr. Darwin's letters dealt with his
horticultural research . As, however, everything con-
nected with this great man is now of interest, I
subjoin a few of the letters in question.

The following referred to Venus' Sun Trap
(Dionea) and to the Sun Dew, of which English
and tropical spfecies exist —

Down, Beckenham, Kent
2rd September 1874
Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I am much
obliged for your Ladyship's extremely kind letter. I
have nearly finished my work On Dionea, and though
a fine specimen would have been of much use to
me, I shall manage pretty well with some poor
plants which I have.

" I have never seen Drosera dichotoma, and
should much like to make a cursory examination
of it. Will you be so good as to tell your gardener
to address it to

C. Darwin, Orpington Station, S.E.R.
To be forwarded immediately by a foot messenger

io8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

I will return the plant as soon as my observa-
tions are finished, and I hope it will not be injured.

I have so often heard of the beauty of the gardens
of Dangstein, that I should much enjoy seeing
them ; but the state of my health prevents me
going an5Avhere.

Pray believe me, your Ladyship's truly obliged,

Charles Darwin

As Mr. Darwin said, his indifferent health kept
him practically a prisoner within his own grounds.
So much so was this the case that for many years
after he had taken up his residence in Kent he
remained unknown to many of his neighbours,
who, at last, seeing him on the road, asked who
the new arrival might be.

The following refers to the insectivorous plants,
a number of which we kept in our hothouses.
They had, I remember, curious tastes, manifesting
a violent repugnance to cheese, and not at all
averse to alcohol —

Down, Beckenham, Kent
September i8th, 1874

Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I am so much
obliged to you. I was so convinced that the blad-
ders were with the leaves, that I never thought
of turning the moss, and this was very stupid of
me. The great, solid, bladder-like swellings almost
on the surface are wonderful objects, but are not
the true bladders. These I find on the roots
near the surface, and down to a depth of 2 inches
in the sand. They are very transparent under glass,

V

':Li: (^La/\.C of /AjL ^'ra^)^. U/AjLjIlL

INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS 109

— from ^ to T^ of an inch in size, and hollow. They
have all the important points of structure of the
bladders of the floating English species, and I
felt confident I should find captured prey. And
so I have to my delight in two bladders, with clear
proof that they absorbed food from the decajmig
moss. For Utricularia is a carrion-feeder and not
strictly carnivorous, like Drosera, etc., etc. The
great solid bladder-like bodies, I believe, are
reservoirs of water like a camel's stomach. Mr.
Cook and I have made a few more observations.
I mean to be so cruel as to give your plant no water,
and observe whether the great bladders shrink
and contain air instead of water. I shall then,
also, wash all earth from all roots and see whether
these are true bladders for capturing subterranean
insects down to the very bottom of the pot. Now
shall you think me very greedy if I say the suffer-
ing to species is not very precious and you have
several, will you give me one more plant, and if so,
please to send it to " Orpington Station, S.E.R.,
to be forwarded by foot messenger."

I have hardly ever enjoyed a day more in my
life than this day's work ; and this I owe to your
ladyship's great kindness.

The seeds are very curious monsters : I fancy
of some plant allied to medicep ; but I will show
them to Dr. Hooker. — Your Ladyship's very
grateful, C. Darwin

In former days there was generally an aviary
in large gardens, and we kept a good many birds

no UNDER FIVE REIGNS

in ours, amongst them love-birds in a large, covered
wire enclosure, carefully shielded from draughts.
We were very successful with them, and one pair
produced no less than twenty little ones, which
much interested Mr. Darwin to hear. In the
following .letter he referred to this —

Down, Beckenham, Kent
2gth December, 1874

Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I thought
that I had reported on the Utricularia, and I
certainly ought to have done so. The large
swellings on the roots or rhizomes certainly serve
to store up water, and it is wonderful how long
the plant can exist in quite dry earth, these swel-
lings or tubers gradually yielding up their water.
But the minute bladders have interested me most.
I have found in four of them on your plant minute
decayed animals ; and in the dried bladders of
plants from their native country a much larger
number of captured creatures, commonly mites.
The bladders are lined with quadrified processes,
consisting of most delicate membrane ; these are
empty and transparent in ^:he bladders which have
caught nothing, but are filled with granular,
spontaneously moving protoplasm in those which
have lain for some time in contact with decayed
animal matter. Therefore I feel sure that the
plant is adapted for catching live animals, and feeds
on their remains when decayed.

I am much obliged to you for telling me the
very curious anecdote about the love-birds.

CRUEL NATURE iii

When in London during the winter I hope that
I may be so fortunate as to have the honour of
seeing your Ladyship. — I beg leave to remain,
yours faithfully and obliged,

Charles Darwin

My son, who has written this from my dicta-
tion, is pleased that you were interested by his
article.

Mr. Darwin paid me several visits when he came
to London, which was seldom, for town was little
to his taste, his mind being entirely absorbed by
those studies which have rendered his name
illustrious throughout aU time.

In the later seventies he devoted much time
to investigating the habits of insect-catching plants,
and again I afforded him some shght assistance,
which he acknowledged as follows —

Down, Beckenham, Kent
j^th January 'L%'jy
Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I am much
obhged for aU the trouble which you have so kindly
taken. One of your references relates to the
Apognice catching Lepidoptera, and this is the
most gratuitous case of cruelty known to me in
a state of nature, for apparently such captures are
of no use to the plant, and assuredly not to the
wretched butterfly, or moth, or fly. — Your Lady-
ship's truly obliged, Charles Darwin

Alas ! there is much suffering and cruelty in

112 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

the world which seems to us meaningless and
unnecessary ; but after all, human intelligence is
but finite, and in aU probability everything is
designed for the best.

The last note I got from the famous evolutionist
was one in answer to my request that he would
inscribe his name upon a httle birthday book of
mine which contains the signatures of most of
the great Victorians —

Down, Beckenham, Kent
(Railway Station Orpington, S.E.R.)
Nov. 2gth, 1881
Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I have had
much pleasure in signing the httle book. I rarely
come to London, but on the two last occasions, I
had hoped for the honour and pleasure of calling
On you. Time and strength, however, failed me,
I am glad that you have been at all interested by
my book on earthworms. — I beg leave to remain,
your Ladyship's faithfully and obhged,

Charles Darwin

I never heard from him again.

CL i-<ryy,& h^tcK-Cf-cJi ^ U-iA. -^TU Lcl^(^ ^^'"'"^^
^Wv/m-^^^^. . etc- ^^"'^-^^ '^t

VI r£Rsrjri,D pTAnoH,

r.^JU t' St^KJL (rf ^^ i^Jl^U to-UytJiJ. MjAtoryf.

IV

A South African letter — Australian Walpoles — A link -with the
past — -Old days in Sussex — Deal luggers and Hastings gospel
ships — Sussex pigs — Black sheep — Mormonism in Sussex — Trugs
— A romantic relic — Chicken-fatting — ^The last carrier's cart —
Shinghng — The convent at Majrfield.

AFTER the publication of my Reminiscences I
received a number of letters. One was from
a lady in Grahamstown, Cape Colony.
I believe, wrote she, it was to an ancestor of
yours that my mother's uncle, Benjamin Randall,
owed his start in life, being sent out (in what
capacity I know not) to India, where he was in the
H.E.I. Company's service. There he made a
large fortune, but dying so far away from friends,
everything fell into the hands of his comfradore, or
whatever the man was called, and my grandmother,
Mrs. Norgate, and the other relations got nothing.
My sister. Miss S. P. Hawes, still has a number
of most interesting pictures of Indian subjects,
which poor old Uncle Ben sent home to his sister
(my grandmother).

When I was young and stayed at my grand-
mother's house at Hethersett, there was an oil
portrait of one of the Walpoles in one of the rooms.
After my grandfather's death in 1859 I believe it
8

114 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

was bought by one of that family, and probably
is at Wolterton still.

My mother's first cousin, Mrs. Hastings-
Parker, born Randall (daughter of Major Charles
Randall), only died in March 1907, being in her
loist yeg.r. I wonder if you knew her. She lived
at Swannington Hall, and was, like ourselves,
descended from the Bladwells.

Another link is on my father's side. A
distant cousin of his, many years ago now, told us
that Sir Robert Walpole (or his agent) tried to win
over my great-grandfather, a surgeon or apothecary
of Bury St. Edmund's, by a very heavy bribe to
vote in the Tory interest. The bribe was not only
to himself, but to his children as they came of age,
and he had thirteen ! So it is no wonder that he
got the name of " Honest Robert Hawes " by his
refusal. He was not a rich man, but must have
been one of some influence, for so large a sum
(I forget how much) to have been offered him.

We left Norfolk when I was quite little, and
went to live in the Weald of Sussex, where my
father bought a farm, so I know the very part of
which you speak, Horsham and Petworth, and I
remember being told about iron being formerly
worked there, and wondered if it was on our land.
I have never seen the term hammer ponds explained,
and sometimes think that a very black-looking
pond, amidst trees, not in pasture land for cattle —
which I recollect on a farm near, was one of these.

Then, too, the Christmas mummers came to
sing, men dressed in some queer, gay-coloured,

HAMMER PONDS 115

fancy garments, and we children were much dis-
appointed at their being sent away.

It was during the time of our residence in
Sussex that the parish stocks at Rudgwick, a village
two or three miles from us, were renewed ! Not,
of course, that their use was then legal, but I suppose
the wisdom of the place thought they would serve
as a warning to evil-doers. This must have been
in the early fifties, I think.

We left Sussex in 1865, after my dear father's
death, and went to live at Springfield, near Chelms-
ford, where the county gaol is — I mention this,
because I think you have made a mistake as to the
date at which public executions ceased. We lived
very near the gaol, and my mother certainly over-
looked the fact that they were still public, when
she took a house in such a situation. There had
been one shortly before, at which great crowds
were present. The Act which required them to be
carried out within the building was passed very
shortly afterwards.

I was amused to see the story of the old
woman and the bustling part of Ditchling — I heard
it nearly twenty years ago, while staying with my
sisters at that village.

" Jacob's Post," where a murderer had been
hung in chains, we saw on Ditchling Common.
The wood was considered a specific for toothache
when applied to the face !

My husband says that Mr. Cobden was quite
mistaken about the so-called " Opium- War."
Neither Lord Macartney nor Lord Amherst ever

ii6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

went to Pekin. He lived in China many years
before we were married, and is most unusually
well-informed upon things Chinese.

One of his early recollections is being taken
by his mother, M""'. Dulcken, to see Jenny Lind,
in the ho^^se to which a tablet with her name has
lately been af&xed.

Some time ago a volume concerning Mrs.
Atkyns of Ketteringham Hall, in Norfolk, a lady
who spent her fortune in attempts to rescue Marie
Antoinette and the Dauphin from imprisonment,
aroused considerable attention. Mrs. Atkyns had
been a Miss Charlotte Walpole, an actress of Drury
Lane Theatre — I could never discover whether or
not her family had been connected with ours. I was
therefore much interested to receive the following
letter from a young lady who seems to have known
one who could have cast some light upon the history
of this remarkable woman — old Mr. Glover.

Melbourne, Victoria
gth September 1909

Dear Lady Dorothy, — I have just read your
Reminiscences, and enjoyed them so much that I am
taking the Hberty of writing to you.

Now please don't take me for a lunatic, only
just a very curious woman. Ever since I grew up,
I've been deeply interested in trying to see how
we were related to Horace Walpole of Letter-
Writing fame. Unfortunately, my grandfather
died when I was eleven, and was a man who spoke
very little of his English relatives. He ha4 a large

A MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE 117

family, and what usually accompanies it, small
means. So had plenty to occupy his attention,
and his inquisitive Grandchild was too young to
care. Otherwise I would not write to you. Now,
to teU you what I have managed to find out. My
grandfather — Edward Atkyns Walpole — was the
youngest son of Blayney Cadwallader Walpole.
He had two elder brothers and one sister. His
mother's maiden name was Peach, and she lived
in Dublin. His father was in the army, and was
moving about a good deal. The three sons were
educated in England, and the only daughter hved
with her grandmother, Mrs. Peach, in Dubhn.
Of the two elder brothers, one was with Lord
Nelson, and in a sea fight was on a prize frigate,
which was sunk by the enemy and all on board
were drowned. The other disappeared from school
in a very mysterious manner, and though all in-
quiries were made, was never heard of again. The
youngest son, Edward Atkyns Walpole (my grand-
father), spent a great deal of his childhood with
his godmother, Mrs. Atkyns, at Ketteringham
Hall, in Norfolk. She always said, at her death, it
would be his. She was in France a great deal, and
when away, he was left in charge of two old French
ladies who kept a school. Mrs. Atkyns' mother
hved with her, and while she was very cross, Mrs.
Atkyns spoilt my grandfather. He spoke French
fluently, and I believe Mrs. Atkyns hoped to have
him made a page at the French Court. She was a
relative of his as weU as being his godmother. He
called her aunt. When Edward Atkyns Walpole

ii8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

was two years old his father, Captain Blayney
Cadwallader Walpole, died. He was in the 33rd
Regiment, and was sent to Sierra Leone as Governor.
However, he got yellow fever soon after his arrival,
and died. The Duchess of Gloucester took an
interest in»him, and I beheve had something to do
with his appointment to Sierra Leone. His wife
married soon after his death — a Captain Glover,
and had a second family. Edward Atkjms Walpole
was born in 1809 in the Isle of Wight, and his
father died about 1811. When Edward was
fifteen years old his stepfather (Captain Glover)
and mother decided to come to the Colonies. She
wished to bring her two surviving children, by her
first husband, with her. So Edward and his sister
came out with them in 1824. Mrs. Atkyns was
angry at Edward being taken from her. She
wrote to him sometimes, but he was heedless,
and letters took a long time to reach their destina-
tion, so the correspondence ceased. At her death
he found she had sunk her money in an annuity,
and he got nothing. Now what I really want to
know is — How was Bla3niey C. Walpole related to
Horace Walpole ? My aunts here vaguely think
he was his cousin, and the Duchess of Gloucester
was his aunt. He could not possibly have been
related in that way, as the Duchess of Gloucester
and Horace Walpole were niece and uncle. Oh
dear ! it's aU so vague, and I do want to know so
badly. I'm the only one who cares to. If my
father knew I was writing to you he wotdd think me
stark staring mad. Please don't shrivel me up,

OLD MR. GLOVER 119

with a scathing reply. I would rather be treated
to a scornful silence — much. My grandfather died
in Tasmania in 1889. Of course I know his father
was long before your time, but when I saw you
had lived in Norfolk where my grandfather lived,
with Mrs. Atkyns, thought perhaps you might
have heard who she was. My aunts thought my
grandfather spoke of her as Lady Atkyns, but old
Mr. Glover (my grandfather's step-brother) is still
alive, and when I was in Tasmania lately, I tried to
gain some information from him. However, he
was only nine years old when they left England,
and aU he knew was that she was not Lady but
Mrs. Atkyns, on that point he was most decided.
He said if she had a title it was only one of courtesy
at the French Court. He said he remembered
Edward telling him she had shown him a handker-
chief stained with Marie Antoinette's blood. It
was old Mr. Glover who told me "Edward" always
called Mrs. Atkyns aunt, though he did not think
the relationship so close, and that was all he could
or would tell me. He's much over ninety, but
very touchy as to his age, and thinks you want to
find out, so won't say he can remember much.
We have a statement of Blayney Cadwallader's
services in the Army, and he seems to have been
in two or three different regiments. In 1780 to
1785 he was second heutenant in the 23rd Regi-
ment of Foot or Royal Welsh Fusihers. From
1795 to 1802 as lieutenant in the Armagh Regi-
ment of Irish Militia, and during the Rebellion was
actively employed. From 1802 to 1805 he was

120 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

lieutenant in the late Royal 3rd Lincoln Militia,
and when he died was captain in the 33rd Regi-
ment. Some of us have a lovely miniature of him
in the uniform of the Royal Welsh Fusiliers. He
has large blue eyes, a big nose and powdered hair,
but who he was the son of, seems a mystery. If
you have ever heard of him or any of the names I
have mentioned, will be deeply grateful. I'm not
a bit wanting to be connected with the present
family, I love everything old. It's rather sad I
should have been born in a country where every-
thing is new. Oh, I do envy you for having
actually been in Strawberry Hill. I have read all
Walpole's Letters to Mann and other odd ones.
You will think I inherit his love of writing letters if
nothing else, so will stop. Hoping you will pardon
me for troubling you, if, indeed, you get as far as
this. — Ever yours sincerely,

Angel Ida Walpole

Some inquiries which were made established
the fact that the writer's family were an Irish
branch of the Walpole family who settled in
Ireland in the seventeenth century. In reply
to an earnest request that Mr. Glover might be
further interrogated as to his personal recol-
lection of Mrs. Atkyns, in whom students of the
Revolution have of late taken so much interest, a
letter was received saying that his voice was now
for ever still. He had died three months before.

The subject of Mrs. Atkyns ^ and the Dauphin

1 A tablet recently erected to her memory in Ketteringham
Church is|reproduced.

A CURIOUS STORY 121

reminds me of the Pretender Naundorff, whose
descendants, I beheve, still maintain their claim to
descent from Louis xvi. A sort of cousin of mine,
the Rev. Mr. Percival; was a staunch believer in
Naundorff's claims, and I believe gave him material
assistance. The question as to who Naundorff
reaUy was seems never to have been cleared up.
Possibly the following may be the true explanation —

In 1858 an old woman who died in a hospital at
Berlin was reported to have left amongst her posses-
sions an old, richly decorated arm-chair (said then to
be Gothic in style), which, at auction, realised five
hundred f fanes. It was purchased by a foreigner,
who afterwards declared that he had bought it on
account of its important history, which he knew.

Originally given by the States of Moheren to
the Empress Maria Theresa, it had been in her
boudoir till her death, upon which instructions
were found to send it to Marie Antoinette, and in
course of time it became one of the principal pieces
of furniture allowed to Louis xvi in the Temple.
The King's valet-de-chambre, Fleury, afterwards
became possessed of the chair, and took it to
England, where it became the property of the
Prince Regent, and afterwards of the Duke of
Cumberland. The latter took it to Berlin, and
there it was given to an upholsterer to repair. The
workman charged with the job found secreted in
it a diamond pin, a portrait in pencil of a boy, and
a number of small sheets of paper filled with very
small writing. These things he appropriated ; the
pin he sold, and the portrait and papers he gave to

122 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

a watchmaker, a friend of his. Although the
writing was in a foreign language, the watchmaker
succeeded in making out that it consisted of a series
of secret and very important instructions drawn up
by Louis xvi for the Dauphin, his son, the portrait
being that of the latter. The watchmaker, whose
name was Naundorff, some years after gave him-
self out as Louis xvii, and produced the papers and
portrait in question to prove his allegation.

It should be added that the arm-chair was
purchased to be sold again in Austria, where it
probably stiU is.

The county of Sussex has always been very dear
to me. For years I lived near its western border,
and later on, after Mr. Nevill's death in 1878,
I went to hve in East Sussex, not very far from
Heathfield, then still a remote old-world district,
which seemed to have been wrapped in slumber
ever since the furnaces of the old Sussex iron-
masters had been extinguished some hundred
years before. In this part of the country a good
deal of Sussex iron work, log tongs, fire . dogs,
rush-holders, and the like, was still to be obtained.
The cottagers, in many cases, had discarded such
relics of the past, which were thrown out into the
fields, or lay covered with rust on their garden
rubbish heaps. Consequently I added considerably
to the collection which I had begun to form when
living near the other side of the county, where
I had purchased a good deal of old iron work,
principally from Newman of Chichester, a great
character in his way, and a staunch believer in

MEMORIAL TO MRS. ATKYNS IN KETTERINGHAM CHURCH

PEACEFUL SUSSEX 123

matrimony, who once told me that a man might
as well do without mustard as without a wife.

People used to laugh at what they called my
craze for old iron. However, my collection, now
loaned to the Victoria and Albert Museum, has, I
believe, become of some value.

The quiet, peaceful Sussex of to-day, gradually,
alas ! owing to the increase of viUas, losing something
of its sweet rural character, is very different from
the county which furnished the guns and shot
of the ships with which Drake, Hawkins, and
Frobisher harried the invincible Armada of Spain.

The forty-two forges and iron mills which once
sent forth culverins, falconets, firebacks, andirons,
ploughshares, spuds, and many other implements
and ornaments, including the railings of St. Paul's
Cathedral, have now long ceased to work. With
the close of the eighteenth century the Sussex
ironmasters saw that the end of their industry
was near. The growing scarcity of wood, and
the opening of coal mines in Wales and other
parts of the kingdom, where iron ore was in close
proximity to them, were fatal to the Sussex works,
which gradually grew fewer and fewer, until the
last of them, at Ashburnham, was closed in 1809,
the immediate cause of it being the failure of the
foundry-men, through intoxication, to mix chalk
with the ore, by reason of which it ceased to flow,
and the blasting finally ended.

Kent and Sussex in old days produced a race
of seamen of peculiar daring, and the Deal lugger
was a regular institution of the place. These

124 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

luggers were famous in life-saving exploits, and
figure largely in the annals of the old smuggling
days. At the end of 1909, however, only one (the
Cosmopolite) of the famous pilot fleet of Deal
luggers remained, and that was in danger of being
broken up. The local authorities, I believe, were
anxious to preserve this relic of the past, but I am
unaware whether the necessary sum was raised.

The mention of Deal brings to mind a rather
quaint story which used to be told at the time
when Dover Pier was being built. Diving bells
were employed to further the work of laying the
foundations, and during the progress of the work it
was observed that they remained down for some-
what long periods of time, which eventually aroused
the attention of the contractors. Eventually it
was ascertained that the men in the diving bells
had invented a new diversion, which accounted for
their remaining such a time at the bottom of the
sea. This consisted in catching crabs, the backs
of which they marked and then caused them to run,
or rather crawl, from one end of the bell to the other,
betting on the result.

Though, when I hved in Sussex, shipbuilding
on a large scale was already a thing of the past,
Messrs. Tutt & Sacree of Hastings still built rowing
boats for all the south coast pleasure resorts
and for the Thames, as weU as model yachts such
as are sailed upon the Serpentine. Another kind
of miniature vessel was also constructed in their
-yard, designed for an excellent purpose which,
it is to be feared, it seldom successfully fulfilled.

SUSSEX PIGS 125

This was the " Gospel ship " or " Jerusalem vessel,"
designed to serve the two-fold purpose of bringing
before sailors at sea the Gospel text, " Jesus came
into the world to save sinners," and to receive into
their secure hold messages from sinldng ships.
These httle ships were more capacious, and at the
same time less hable to fracture, than the traditional
bottle, and the text, inscribed on an oilskin sail
in luminous paint, was, moreover, so long as it
remained whole, more calculated to attract atten-
tion, while at the same time carrying the marine
letter-box faster across the waves.

Occasionally mariners viewed these httle Gospel
ships with suspicion, taking them for floating mines
or some form of torpedo. Not a few travelled
great distances. One set afloat 300 miles S.W.
of the Scillys was once safely landed on the Irish
coast. Another did service in the South Pacific.

Amongst the things I used to collect were the
Sussex pigs, the best of which were made at Rye,
that dehghtful old-world town from which the sea
has receded. The exact origin of the Sussex pig
may perhaps be the stubborn obstinacy of the
Sussex rustic, which is traditional. In allusion to
this a wag once declared that the county arms
should be a pig, with the motto, "Won't be druv,"
beneath. Whether such a crest is really appropriate
or not, the old " Sussex pig " has been popular
with local potters from time immemorial, probably
as an emblem of plenty coupled with content.

I collected a number of pigs of various sizes.
They appear to have originally been designed to

126 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

hold beer, and they usually figured as presents at
wedding feasts. The head of the pig, which is
somewhat insecurely fastened by means of a taper-
ing peg inserted in two corresponding holes, made
respectively in the head and the neck, takes off,
and as the snout is perfectly flat, and capable of
serving as a rest for the inverted head-piece, it is
qualified to do service as a mug, the idea being
that the new couple and their guests should drink
" a hogshead of beer." Meanwhile the body serves
as jug or larger receptacle, discharging the hquor
out of the neck.

Though the pigs I kept were only of pottery, I
had some real sheep — black sheep — which, in accord-
ance with the usual idea, gave us an immense
amount of trouble, running away all over the
country. When they were first sent to me I had
them turned out Uke ordinary sheep, being under
the impression that no especial precautions were
needed to prevent their straying. Gifted with
most extraordinary powers of jumping, they hopped
over ordinary hurdles and fences with the very
greatest ease; every night, indeed, one or two
would be missing, and the dark forms of the truants
leaping hedges, ditches, and streams frightened
many a Sussex rustic on his homeward way in the
dusk, who thought that the fiend, who had once
bearded St, Dunstan at Mayfield, was now again
on the warpath.

So difficult was it to keep these sheep from
playing their pranks, that eventually I was per-
suaded to let them appear in the only form in

SUSSEX MORMONS 127

which I could be assured that they would give no
further trouble, and one by one they were converted
into the most excellent and tender mutton.

A Sussex village was in former days almost as
remote from the great movements of life at the
centres of civilisation as Greenland is to-day, and
those who lived in it seemed to concern themselves
little about any movements beyond paying taxes,
and occasionally giving a vote at county elections.

Thirty years ago, when I knew the district well,
the country folk around Heathfield were extremely
unsophisticated, and probably for this reason
Mormon missionaries from Utah carried on a
regular propaganda, which was attended with a good
deal of success. In some cases whole families,
stirred by their preaching, migrated to Salt Lake
City, a place which the majority of Sussex converts
found an5rthing but the earthly paradise which had
been described to them. The consequence was
that owing to their piteous epistolary lamentations
and entreaties they were generally repatriated at
some one else's expense, for these emigrants to the
land of Brigham Young, having sold up their
homes in order to pay for their journey to the
promised land, flowing with milk and honey, more
often than not were completely destitute on
arrival in America, where they had to eke out a
precarious livelihood by menial service.

From time to time, owing to this state of affairs,
great indignation was manifested in this part of
the Weald of Sussex against the Mormon mission-
aries, some of whom were roughly handled, and

128 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

given sound duckings in the village horse-ponds.
I am, however, not at all sure that the forces of
Mormonism have yet been entirely routed in this
district, where the children of the soil, after many
centuries of comparative isolation, are a strange
and obstinate people, often of a most unreasonable
turn of mind.

How pretty are the old Sussex cottages, with
their little gable-ends, open timber-work fronts,
and shelving thatched roofs, coming down at one
end nearly to the ground, and little lattice-windows
that look out cosily from the eaves. Such cottages
were generally built standing back from the road-
side, amidst an informal orchard of apple, cherry,
plum, and pear trees. Inside, for the most part,
they were as clean and neat, and as carefuUy
tended as the gardens without ; the shelves bright
with coloured cups and saucers, and mugs and
ornaments of quaint design, and on the walls
engravings illustrating the adventures of Joseph
and his brethren, or some other Scriptural incidents,
often in close proximity to some gaily coloured
picture of sport. Such cottages, however, were
seldom comfortable, for the brick floor was gener-
ally damp and uneven, the ceiling, as a rule, formed
of massive oak beams, strong enough to support a
church and heavy enough to pull it down, the only
place free from draughts full of rheumatism being
the innermost corner in the huge open chimney —
the place, according to immemorial usage, of the
male head of the family.

There were few county houses of much interest

LADING 129

in this particular part of Sussex, though Heathfield
Park is interesting as having been the country seat
of General Elliott, the defender of Gibraltar, and the
victor in the glorious action of September 1782,
who took from it his title of Lord Heathfield. A
tower raised in his memory on a spot commanding
a view embracing more than forty churches, and
embellished with the dedicatory inscription Calpes
Defensori, is not very far removed from the spot
where the General, before proceeding to Gibraltar,
practised in company with the village blacksmith —
a man with a turn for scientific gunnery — a man-
oeuvre which proved of decisive use in his contest
with the French and Spanish fleet, namely, the
firing of red-hot shot. He had some cannon in
the park, and by the practice spoken of became an
expert at ladling the red-hot shot into their muzzles.
This part of Sussex is intersected with numbers
of small streams, tributaries of the Cuckmere, which
join the main river somewhere above Hellingly.
Most of these streams,besides minnows and lamperns,
contain trout, which occasionally attain a weight
nearly approaching a pound. They are excellent
eating. Fishing with a fly is for the most part out
of the question, owing to the number of boughs and
bushes which protrude from the bank, often almost
shutting in the streams ; occasionally, however,
the trout were fished for and caught with a worm.
The bigger fish haunt their own particular holes, and
these used to be caught in Sussex by what can only
be called a somewhat unsportsmanlike, if effective,
manoeuvre. This was called " lading," and con-
9

130 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

sis ted in a number of men damming up the stream
with boards and earth just in front of a hkely hole,
the water from which was then ladled or laded out,
a net being stretched across to prevent the escape of
any fish which might be there. As a rule two or
three fair-sized trout are secured in each hole,
together with a number of smaller fry. The process
of lading was carried out by the use of Sussex
" trugs," which are peculiarly suitable for such a
task, the closely set wooden bottoms and basket-
like shape being admirably adapted for holding the
water, which is either thrown on to the bank or over
the net down the course of the stream.

The trug in question seems to be entirely a
Sussex product.

The inventor of Sussex trugs, at least in their
present form, was Mr. Thomas Smith of Hurst-
monceux, who was in the habit of making a sort
of " rude contrivance," something like the modern
trug referred to, about a hundred and twenty-five
years ago. One day it struck him that this might
be turned to account, with a little attention, for
agricultural purposes, and his first improvement
was to make a sort of basket of chestnut, ash, or
oak wood, bound together with hazel bands. Such
trugs were serviceable, but heavy, and in the
course of time, Mr. Smith discovered that wiUow-
wood was both more pliable and lighter, and at
the present day trugs are made almost exclusively
of this, except some of the larger sizes, which, for
strength, are made of ash. A trug can be made by
a single man alone. The man who begins the trug

AN ENGLISH GENTLEMAN 131

also finishes it. No doubt the variation of labour
thus supplied to each hand breaks the monotony
of the work, and as a good deal is done by piece-
work, and every man works on his own particular
account, there is no inducement to apportion the
various operations to distinct sets of hands. Trug-
making would not appear to be very laborious or
difficult, though no doubt it requires a knack only
to be acquired by practice. A man can turn out,
according to size and his own ability, from four to
twelve dozen a week ; the usual average is from
five to eight dozen.

Another Sussex industry was rope-making, for
which the market town of Hailsham used to be
locally known. This employed some hundreds of
hands, a local character being imparted to it by
the manufucture of haircloth for drying hops in
the oast-houses. I am unaware whether this
industry still continues.

Near my house in East Sussex was Horeham
Manor, an old house which had rather deteriorated
since the days of the eighteenth century, and re-
tained little except some panelling to remind visitors
that it had once been a fine country house. Let to a
farmer, it belonged, and still belongs, to Sir William
Hart Dyke, an old friend of mine, and one of the
last really typical old English gentlemen. A staunch
Conservative, Sir William for years played a con-
siderable part in politics. He acted as whip, and his
thoroughly sterling and honourable character was
appreciated alike by friend and foe in the strife
of party warfare, from which he has now withdrawn.

132 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Of late years, since his retirement from active
political life, Sir William has been seen less in London
than before, preferring, as he does, the rural delights
and retirement of his beautiful old mansion, LuUing-
stone Castle, one of the few English country houses
the picturesque charm of which has not been
impaired by injudicious restoration. Here is re-
ligiously preserved a family relic of a most interesting
and romantic kind — a purse known as the "Luck"
of the Dykes. Into this on marrying every succes-
sive heir to the estate puts a coin (a usage still
regularly observed), and as Lullingstone has be-
longed to the Dykes for many centuries, there is
a good deal of money of various reigns, forming
quite an interesting collection. A family super-
stition, never yet broken, decrees that though the
coins may be taken out of the curious old purse-bag
in which many a dead and gone Dyke has deposited
them, they must never be counted, and, conse-
quently, the exact number to this day remains
unknown.

Heathfield is in the centre of the chicken-fatting
and " higgling " district — ^higgling would seem to
be an essentially local calling. As the chicken-
f atters conducted their operations on an extensive
scale, the supply of home-raised fowls was in-
sufficient. Accordingly, the f atters were compelled
to employ " higglers," who went as far as fifty
miles (the farther away the better they liked it, for
the birds were cheaper) to collect young chickens.
These higglers were each in touch with a particular
fatter — some fatters employed several ; as a rule,

CHICKEN-FATTING 133

they were bound to a limit of price, and allowed a
commission of something like two shillings a dozen.
The chickens had to be from eight to thirteen weeks
old, so as to answer the varying requirements as
to size, some breeds being greater favourites than
others. Arthur Young called the green linnet the
ideal breed, and the Dorking as next nearest to it
in absolute perfection. Dorkings continued up to
the time I lived near Heathfield to be highly
popular among Sussex fatters, but the familiar
barn-door fowl also held its own as a capital fatter,
a touch of Bramah blood in any breed being valued
as securing strong chicks. The chickens were
cooped up in sizes, generally all coops in a row, at
a height above the ground convenient for feeding and
handling, and fed out of a crib which ran alongside
the coops. In some places there were several
tiers of coops, one above the other, mostly under
shelter, in sheds — fowls liking warmth. Some suc-
cessful fatters, however, kept a number of their birds
sheltered by nothing but a roof and a wattle screen,
and declared that the fowls did as well there as in
sheds, even in winter. In the Heathfield district
the usual food consisted of ground oats, suet, and
milk — skimmed or unskimmed — to which some-
times a little linseed oil was added, especially in
winter. At first chickens have to be fed carefully,
if not charily. Their greediness is so intense that
they are apt to choke or overfeed themselves^
and then there is an end of fatting. They were
in general kept on oatmeal made into gruel one week,
suet added the second week, and the last week

134 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

they were crammed. Some of the principal
crammers were exceedingly prosperous — one used
to be known as the king of the chicken-fatters.

Cramming is a peculiar process, being something
of an art, but it would seem to be utterly free from
the inhuman cruelty of the Alsatian foie gras
production. The object of the fatter is not to
make the chickens bilious, but to keep them healthy.
Their crop is filled with food, which was originally
done by hand, as in Alsace, a ball being forcibly
thrust down the fowl's throat. Small fatters still
adhered to this process, but machinery is also
employed, which saves much time. The apphance
in use is a sausage-making machine, to the mouth
of which a gutta-percha tube is attached. This
tube must be inserted in the crop — not too far, but
just far enough not to choke the chickens or injure
their crop. One man turns the wheel ; another
holds the chicken till the crop is filled — the process
takes hardly a minute. In this manner the chickens
have their crops filled twice a day. After a time
it is said the chickens get so used to this artificial
feeding as actually to await the morning and even-
ing gorging with something Uke eagerness, and the
fatting process is continued for about a week.

No doubt since the time when I lived in Sussex
the whole system of chicken - fatting has been
improved, and the industry brought up to the level
of modern requirements.

Killing and preparing the fowls for the market
were operations as important as cramming.
Carriers sent their carts round to the various

THE LAST CARRIER'S CART 135

farmhouses to collect any fowls that might be
ready, and conveying them to market, conducted
the sale, and brought the proceeds home to the
fatters after pa5dng themselves for carriage.
Modern facilities of conveyances have greatly
assisted the trade. In old days, when means of
communication were difficult, carriers' vans used
to take the fowls right into London, and " journeys "
were restricted to one or two days a week. When,
however, the South - Eastern Railway was built,
Ticehurst became the collecting station, from
which the chicken-crates were conveyed by raU.
After the opening of the new branch of the London,
Brighton and South Coast Railway, some twenty-
seven years ago, Heathfield became the head-
quarters of the traffic, and in order to accommodate
customers the railway company provided special
cars which carried only Sussex poultry.

The heavy carriers' carts, which were formerly
such familiar features of English country roads,
have now long disappeared. The last journey of
a famous Sussex carrier's (Bourner) vans between
Lewes and London was made in 1859. Bourner
had been preceded by other well-known carriers —
Shelley, for instance, whose carts, drawn by eight
horses, had broad wheels, the tyres being near a
foot and a half in width, going at a steady pace of
two mUes an hour, and occupjdng four days in
the journey from London. Next came Jarrett's
van, doing the journey in fifteen hours. This
was a revolution, and it was regarded with suspicion
as an innovation. The proprietor dying, it fell

136 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

into the hands of Mr. Bourner. After the railway
to Lewes was opened, however, it became a struggle
to keep it going, for most of the Lewes traffic went
to the railway, and this van depended for support
mostly upon the rural districts eastward.

Delightful features of the Sussex landscape are
the shingled roofs and spires, so gratifying to the
lover of the picturesque. Certain disadvantages,
however, attach to such a form of roofing. In the
first place, it is not cheap, and in the second, in case
of fire, it is so dangerous that foreign governments
have actually forbidden its use. A shingle roof on
fire is like a "cascade" of rockets or fireworks,
scattering burning timber in all directions, and to a
considerable distance. When properly fixed and
watched, shingles, which in modern days have been
exclusively made of oak, wear well enough. The
shingles on church spires become worn " thread-
bare " after a century or so of service, when they
begin to show the texture of the hard fibre in
silvery sheen, and still protecting the roof after
all the soft woody matter has been washed away.
For some three centuries the " town " of Rother-
field was the home and centre of Sussex shinghng.
Shinghng is a craft quite distinct from ordinary
builder's or carpenter's work, and runs in a family.
It requires skill, indifference to danger, and a cool
head. The workman does not make his own
shingles, but buys them, as a rule, from the timber
yard, though they are also made in the forest or in
carpenters' shops. The butt-ends of sound oak
trees supply the best material. Where timber is

THE FIEND'S REVENGE 137

cleft, not sawn, these remain, so to speak, as refuse.
Their wood is of the longest wear. The shingles
are cut green, all by hand, with the axe, and are
made of uniform length, thirteen inches, but of vary-
ing width. All of them taper towards the end. When
cut, they are stacked crossways so as to keep one
another straight, and prevent warping. They are
not really fit for use till after some years' keeping.

Near Rotherfield is Mayfield, with its Roman
Catholic Convent, which I often visited, for I had
made great friends with some of the nuns, kindest
and best of women, devoting their peaceful and
unselfish lives to the service of the poor and sick.
Here are preserved the tongs with which St.
Dunstan is said to have seized the devil by the
nose when the fiend had appeared to tempt him
in the guise of a beautiful woman. According to
tradition, the Evil One was thoroughly dismayed
by his rough reception, and flew away over the
Weald of Sussex, dropping his blood over the
sweet woodland country way, the streams of which
in consequence run red- to this day A misfortune
which some years ago happened to the Mayfield
community is, perhaps, his revenge. The nuns,
finding some difficulty in securing a sufficient supply
of water, engaged a water-finder, who, in due course,
indicated a spot where he declared boring would
certainly be successful. At considerable expense
a weU of great depth was sunk, water being duly
discovered. When, however, the poor nuns came
to drink it, they discovered that, owing to the vast
quantity of iron which it contained, it was absolutely

138 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

useless for household purposes, and some thousan(
pounds had been expended in vain, a circumstano
which no doubt caused the fiend great satisfaction
and served as some small compensation for the nose
pinching of centuries before.

After. I left East Sussex I took a cottage a
Haslemere, which I had known years before as {
mere village, in days when the lovely surrounding!
were quite unappreciated by a less cultivated am
less luxurious generation. My cottage there wai
really two old cottages, which had been mosi
artistically united by Mr. Beresford Pite, who hac
contrived an extremely pretty and even commodious
little house, which retained every attractive feature
of the old cottages, including an old chimney cornei
and ceilings crossed by huge beams. It is onlj
within the last twenty years that architects have
learnt how to blend old and new with effective anc
comfortable results.

The original cottage, I believe, had once beer
the residence of a tanner who carried on his trade
in what had been made part of a very nice Uttle
garden.

Haslemere abounds in pretty cottages, a numbei
of which, like the one I had, are old ones tranS'
formed. But the High Street is somewhat diS'
figured by the architecture of a certain number o:
modern erections built for shops.

Tradesmen in the country, alas ! are too ofter
quite devoid of taste, and seem to take an especia
delight in tearing down the quaint old shop- window;
composed of small panes of glass, which, on the

HASLEMERE 139

other hand, London architects now not infrequently
copy.

When I first went to Haslemere, a well-known
character was Mr. Elwin, whose httle house was
filled with a most heterogeneous collection of an-
tiquities, including a number of quaint old chemists'
jars. For years he had been gathering together all
kinds of odds and ends. Some of them had consider-
able local interest. I used much to enjoy a chat
with this original old man, and was very sorry when
he died.

A great friend of mine at Haslemere was Mr.
Montagu White — before the Boer war representa-
tive of the Transvaal Republic in England.

Not very long ago he married another Haslemere
friend of mine — a lady who owns a considerable
property there, and also a charming house filled
with interesting things, which I often went to
admire.

The conquest of the West End — Two favourite topics — The
"smart set" — Its characteristics — The social life of to-day —
Successful financiers — Anecdotes — Bibulous butlers — The end of
"Society" — Prominent figures — Conversationalists — General Galli-
fet — Unchanging woman — Lady Cardigan and her recollections^
Lord Ward — Maria, Marchioness of Ailesbury — Anecdotes of social
celebrities.

WHILST the English aristocracy were un-
doubtedly well advised to profit by the
lesson of the ruling caste across the
Channel, whose complete downfall at the time
of the Revolution was largely brought about by
their indiscriminating exclusiveness and insolence
towards all not of noble birth, it would seem
an open question whether they have not gone too
far in the direction of welcoming and pandering
to wealth, no matter how acquired. In the early
days of the financial invasion into the West End,
society, which then really existed, unconsciously
aspired towards absorbing the newcomers into their
own class, and thus still retaining social power under
the new conditions which were beginning to prevail.
Unfortunately, as matters have turned out, a
quite opposite state of affairs has come to pass,
and the forces of mammon have absorbed and are
stiU gradually absorbing the influence which rank
and long lineage once enjoyed. Birth to-day is of

TWO FAVOURITE TOPICS 141

small account, whilst wealth wields an unquestioned
sway. It would indeed seem that society — aristo-
cratic society that is — might have made a better
bargain if it had exercised a greater amount of
discrimination and reserve, whilst extending a less
enthusiastic welcome to millionaires shrewd enough
to despise those whose ends they easily divined.

The conquest of the West End by the City has
brought about a complete change of tone, for
whereas in former days little was heard of stocks
and shares, money-making (or rather money-losing,
which is generally the result of speculation) has
become an ordinary subject of conversation. The
older generation rarely spoke of two things — their
financial affairs and their digestions. Both are now
favourite topics.

Many of the old school regarded anything but
serious investments (generally carried out for them
by their family solicitors) with extreme suspicion,
and some held ultra-scrupulous views as to specula-
tion of any kind whatever.

This was surely pushed to an exaggerated
pitch by Lord Churston, who, in the fifties of the
last century, declined to take shares in the Dart-
mouth and Torbay Railway, on the ground that no
Member of Parliament should hold shares in any
railway on which he might have to legislate.

All this, however, is now ancient history, and
a large part of so-called society — ^women as much
as men — spend their time eagerly watching for
what they hope may prove to be a good thing.
Too often, however, they have cause to regret such

142 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

speculations, which not infrequently plunge them
into considerable difficulties.

Though there have, of course, always been
different groups in London society, there was
formerly nothing at all approximating to the coterie
known as. the "smart set," a name which, I sup-
pose, particularly refers to the clothes worn by its
members, most of whom, it may with justice be
said, can lay Uttle claim to the possession of brains,
whilst somewhat contemptuously tolerant of them
in others.

The adjective "smart," which has now come
into such extended use, was not in former days, I
think, much heard outside the servants' hall. I
cannot imagine what the great ladies of other days
would have thought and said had some one been
introduced to them, and, on making inquiry, been
told, " She is quite smart ! "

According to their old-world ideas such an
expression would rather convey the idea of some
kitchen-maid dressed up in her Sunday best — they
would certainly not have regarded it as a flattering
description of a lady or of a gentleman.

The exact qualifications for admission into the
" smart set" (to which birth or talent are certainly
no passports) would appear to be rather obscure.
Wealth judiciously applied would seem to be the
most necessary qualification to ensure the pos-
sessor's entry into a circle which is nothing if not
extravagant. It should, however, be added that,
on the whole, these people do little harn^ for their
amusements are generally more silly than vicious,

THE "SMART SET" 143

and their Kfe, in spite of the obloquy to which
it is occasionally exposed, is probably no worse
than the rest of the world. Card-playing, dining,
and chatter, varied with practical jokes — or what
pass as jokes — are, after all, not crimes. Con-
versation, in the true sense of the term, the " smart
set " neither likes nor understands, though not a
few of its members are very apt and quick at their
own kind of personal banter and somewhat vapid
repartee. To do them justice, they are, to a man
and to a woman, hero-worshippers of a most
enthusiastic kind, the object of their adoration
being generally one of their own number who, for
the time being, has attained to an especial degree of
" smartness," in which case ever57thing connected
with him or her becomes a topic of absorbing interest.
This curious clique may be defined as consisting
mainly of little people, that is to say, little in intelli-
gence, though some of its members (most of these
men) have shown great shrewdness in accumulating
money. It is not surprising that an individual
whose early existence has been a strenuous
struggle to pile up wealth, should wish to soar
out of the somewhat dull atmosphere of commercial
Ufe into what to him seems the most exclusive
of circles, and bask in the smiles of those who, to
his dazzled gaze, represent the highest in the land.
Many such natures find relaxation in frivolous
gossip, whilst their eye is pleased and their senses
soothed by attractive surroundings which they
find ready to hand. The really great men of the
past, however, would not, I think, ever have cared

144 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

for the " smart set " — there was nothing little
about most of them.

As for the rank and file, consisting of beauties,
or supposed beauties, cosmopolitans of fortune,
and various grades of hangers-on, most of them
have excellent reasons for setting a high value upon
the position which, in many cases, it has taken
them infinite pains to reach, and which it is possible
may bring them very substantial advantages.

To the independent and original, however,
the joys of such an existence can make but a
limited appeal. The "smart set," for its part,
does not want them, for it sets little value upon
mere intelligence without wealth.

A clever financier they can understand, for
some mundane benefits are pretty certain to follow
in his wake.

Mere originality and wit, however, not put to
any financially beneficial use, are apt, in the opinion
of most of such people, to degenerate into bore-
dom, whilst at heart they well know that the
possessors of such very unprofitable qualities, in
nine cases out of ten, would regard the whims and
fancies — ^the poor chatter and total lack of ideas —
with feelings of pity, or at best, of amused contempt.

Now and then some fairly intelligent individual
strays into this heterogeneous assemblage, and by
the careful suppression of personality becomes,
quite popular, prattling with the best of them of
scandals, clothes, and the thousand and one Httle
trifles which are the pivots on which the existence
of such an ephemeral group mainly revolves.

UNCONSCIOUS FATALISM 145

One of the most pleasant things about the
" smart set " is its complacency — many of its
members are as happy as the day is long, serenely
confident that they, and they alone, represent the
elect of the human race destined by some turn of fate
which they have no desire to understand to lead
a life of lotus-eating and amusement. Curiously
enough when the ruthless destiny, which comes to so
many human beings quite irrespective of wealth or
class, happens to overwhelm people of this sort,
quite a number (contrary to what one might reason-
ably suppose) display the greatest courage. Not
a few have faced the loss of fortune with a cheerful-
ness which finer characters may well envy, whilst
others, stricken down by disease and pain, exhibit
a rare fortitude of quite an extraordinary character.

As a matter of fact, a large number of people
who spend their time toying with the trinkets ol
life are unconscious fatalists, avoiding every form
of trouble or of sorrow much as they do a bad
dinner. " Eat, drink, and be merry, for to-morrow
we die," is their motto — one of an uninspiring and
even low character. Nevertheless it is but just
to remember that if many of them have acted up tc
the first part of it to the full, not a few have exhibited
great courage and character when put to the test

London society (an expression which means

nothing now) demands very different credentials

of newcomers from those formerly asked. As 2

matter of fact, any one prepared to entf r tain lavishlj

can soon become one of its leaders, provided it ij

managed in the proper way.
10

146 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

A curious feature of modern social life is the
way in which a provincial family possessing great
wealth made in trade enters into London society.
The sons of some rich manufacturer (very often a
Nonconformist, much given to good works and
philanthropy), in nine cases out of ten entertain
social ambitions, which they soon begin to attempt
to gratify, once their worthy parent has departed.

In all probability one or other of the brothers
will have a fairly presentable wife, remotely, at least,
connected with some one in society who willingly
undertakes the necessary piloting. Dinners, parties,
and balls are given, and these, combined with rumours
of enormous wealth, which so powerfully attract
the modern world, soon effect their purpose. The
Nonconformist friends of other days are soon
forgotten or dropped, for such people would not at
all suit the " smart set." The sons are sent to
Eton, and in due course frequent the cover side
and the racecourse, whilst the daughters go through
the most expensive forms of instruction, such as
are supposed to constitute a modern young lady's
education. The whole family are both mentally and
physically transformed, very often with the result that
in two generations its various members are obliged by
force of circumstances to recommence the laborious
life led by the maker of the original fortune.

In some cases, however, one of the brothers^
whilst partially dazed by the lights of London,;
still adheres to some of the ideas of his youth,
and, though the possessor of a great mansion in the
West End, goes through the daily round of obser-

THE SUCCESSFUL SPECULATOR 147

varices so dear to the evangelical or Low Church
provincial, in whose existence the spirits of rehgion
and money-making are so curiously combined.
Though frankly condemning the joys of the world,
he, nevertheless, gives dinners and parties, gener-
ally, alas ! not seldom of a most dismal description.
The social enterprises of such a one as this are of
Necessity perpetually hampered by the provincial
scruples, which, of course, run exactly counter to
the ways of a society mainly engrossed with un-
thinking pleasures. His sons, educated at a pubhc
school, find the gloom of their solemn home over-
whelmingly depressing, and, unless they make a
successful marriage, too often fall into habits which
bring them into constant friction with their father.
His daughters either take to good works or contrive
to keep away altogether, so that the poor man in
the end leads a far more miserable existence than
he would have done in his native city, full of men
of the same austere views as himself.

A totally different class of rich man is the
successful speculator, who, by some lucky coup,
suddenly finds himself welcome in houses where
formerly he would scarcely have been allowed in
the servants' hall. There is a self-confidence and
swagger about some of the individuals which
irresistibly reminds one of the little boy who,
having soaked his handkerchief in eau-de-Cologne,
proudly announced to a party of friends, " If any
of you smells a smell, that's me."

A certain number of the nouveaux riches are
amusing owing to the freshness of phrase which

148 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

they import into West End -drawing-rooms. Of
this kind was Mrs. Hudson, the wife of the great
raikoad speculator, who for a time flourished in the
last century. She was somewhat shrewd in her
own peculiar way, and had a trenchant manner of
hitting ofi people's characteristics.

Speaking of an individual of unreliable disposi-
tion, she said —

"He is like a pat of butter on a hot plate —
you never know when you have got him 1 "

Another millionaire, a man who had made his
fortune by hard work, and risen from the lowest
rung of the ladder to the top, indulged in a peculiar
vein of rugged humour. A lady telling him that
she was going to call her son Peter, he startled her
by exclaiming, " Not Peter, but Salt Peter you should
caU him, for I never yet knew a man called Peter
who could earn his salt."

Many enormously rich men of the present day
are very kindly and good-natured ; in fact, I fancy
the whole class has vastly improved in the matter
of consideration for the world at large. In old
days a good many of the wealthy had no more
heart than a stone peach on a lodging-house chimney-
piece. Their servants were also on occasion very
pompous and insolent.

A cousin of mine, who lived in a large house
with many servants and many friends, was always
being told that they called and were never ad-
mitted. On expostulation with the butler (a
Frenchman who had come from some millionaire),
the latter said —

AN EXACTING BUTLER 149

" Madame, est-ce que je peux prendre les gens par
les epaules et les faire entrer si ils ne veulent pas ? "

This conclusive reply procured him his im-
mediate discharge.

The same butler left a grand situation because
the lady, when on a hoUday to her country house,
would use the Times newspaper for a tablecloth,
thereby offending the feeling of the Frenchman.

In former days intemperance was, without
doubt, more prevalent than is now the case.
Servants in particular gave much trouble in this
respect, and a cousin of mine — George Cadogan —
used often to deplore the ruthless fate which
seemed to deUght in causing him to come across
bibulous butlers. One of these men being especially
obstreperous in his cups, I received the following
letter —

13 Park Place, St. James's
September J.6th

Dear and Perennially Fair Coz, — In the
midst of cares compared to which those which beset
Job were a hght pastime, I send you a line to ac-
knowledge the receipt of the maid Honoria, whom I
found on my arrival, from Hampsted Marshall,
a renovated specimen of the human kind, and I
wish to thank you and Nevill for all your kindness
to her — indeed, you have done a great deal more
for her and us than appears on the surface, for
she seems to have rubbed off amongst you a
sauvagerie that I was beginning to be anxious
about. She seems to have been perfectly happy,
and has got fat on your flesh-pots. In the mean-

150 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

time E. and I have been disporting ourselves at
the Donegalls with a party of young men, six of
us, including Lord D., whose united ages I calculate
at three hundred and ninety. On coming up to
town I found my butler (second of his dynasty
within (?ne month) drunk on his bed — it took
twenty-four hours to get him as far as the door,
outside of which I beUeve him to be still extended,
with a Bobby della rnisericordia to watch over
his slumbers — such is hfe, and many happy returns
to you.

• ■•••■•

I have left E. with her mother. She will have
to seek for me on her return under Waterloo Bridge
— ^but a butler shall go with me ! — Your unfortunate
though still affectionate G. C.

Amongst vanished customs of society must be
reckoned the meals called breakfasts, but in reality
luncheons, which were formerly a great feature of
social life.

I remember so well going to breakfasts at Mrs.
Lawrence's — charming affairs, where flowers and
the gay world mixed. Amongst them were Lord
and Lady Harrington. He had married Miss
Foote. Lord Harrington was always dressed most
eccentrically. A long coffee-coloured cloth coat
down to his heels, braided all over, and a wonderful
beaver hat trimmed with brown. A witty cousin
of mine used to say — " When I see Lord H., I
always feel I have gained a shilling," — ^meaning
he had seen a sight without paying for it.

LADY MARY CRAVEN 151

Lord Harrington's servants and his horses
also wore a wonderful livery.

In those days there were many of these afternoon
breakfasts, but now, alas ! where these delightful
feasts took place all is built over and destroyed.

A lovely woman, who was a great beauty of
mid- Victorian days, was Lady Mary Craven. I
nicknamed this brilliant lady " the Bomb," because
whenever she entered a room, no matter how
beautiful or attractive the other women in it
might be, she instantly caused every one's attention
to be centred upon her. She was a very great
friend of mine, and I retain the most pleasant
recollections of her charming personality.

Society, in the old sense of the term, may be
said, I think, to have come to an end in the "eighties"
of the last century.

Many great men were still surviving in the
early years of that decade, and dinner parties were
often enlivened by their presence. Looking through
old letters I find a list of the guests at one of these.
Amongst them were three Gladstones, including,
of course, the Grand Old Man, the Duchess of St.
Albans, the Tavistocks, the WUliam Harcourts,
Matthew Arnold, Bright, and Herbert Spencer ;
an assemblage containing much intellect and no
extraordinary amount of wealth — the day of the
millionaire had not yet come.

At this dinner Mr. Gladstone spoke much of
Lord Beaconsfield, over whose loss Matthew Arnold
grieved to his neighbour, whilst contrasting the
two great men, much to the lost one's advantage.

152 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

In the eighties many well-known figures dis-
appeared for ever from the social world in which
they had exercised real sway. Bernal Osborne
and poor Jim Macdonald died the same day.
Society was beginning to lose much of its charm,
for alreadj^ it was apparent that there were no
young ones coming on to replace those pleasant
men of the world. There was something more
worthy in the latter than that which came first
before the eyes of people in general. In Jim Mac-
donald there was the best heart that ever breathed,
and he was the most thorough gentleman. Bernal
Osborne was a philosopher, and had great talents,
which most unfortunately missed their mark. He,
like many other of his contemporaries, thoroughly
understood the art of conversation, though he would
have been considered too trenchant, I think, at
the present day, when no particular licence is
extended to any one, no matter how good a talker
he may be. ,

A lady who lived through the entire Victorian
Era was the Baroness Burdett - Coutts. In
old days her wealth was reputed to be fabulous,
and all sorts of rumours prevailed as to whom she
was about to marry. One of these declared that
King Leopold of Belgium, the monarch who died
but a short time ago, was about to lead Miss Burdett-
Coutts, as she was then, to the altar.

Another link with the past was the late Sir-
Eyre Massey Shaw, who in his last years was con-
stantly to be seen in a bath-chair in the Park,
attended by his daughter.

SIR MASSEY SHAW 153

I take it that few are aware that Sir Eyre Shaw
was originally intended for the Church, and only
escaped ordination by the very skin of his teeth.
Indeed, he even attended the ordination service,
but, after listening to the preliminary sermon
preached by the officiating bishop, he left the
church, and decided upon embracing a secular
career.

With the disappearance of the older Victorians
the conversation of society has totally altered its
character — some say disappeared altogether.

As regards conversation in general, there is a
good deal more of it than formerly, though the
quality has, I think, deteriorated. In old days
a number of people kept practically silent and
listened ; now every one talks, or tries to talk, and
no one seems to devote any particular attention
to what is said, their main endeavour being to
get in a word themselves. At the same time it
must be acknowledged that the range of subjects
discussed is far wider, and people have a greater
number of interests than in old days, when collecting
and artistic tastes, now so popular, were looked
upon, more or less, as being highly eccentric
fads.

The real art of conversation is not only to say
the right thing in the right place, but, far more
difficult still, to leave unsaid the wrong thing at
the tempting moment.

The professional conversationahst of the past
was at best rather a contemptible figure — when I
say professional conversationahst, I refer to people

154 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

who were asked out to dine on the tacit under-
standing that they should amuse the other guests. I
am not speaking of conversationaUsts of the type
of Bernal Osborne, whose flow of talk sprang from
his own natural vivacity. Up to about forty or
fifty yea»s ago there stiU survived a class which
somewhat approximated to the jesters of the Middle
Ages, who were expected to amuse the company.

Many of these men were in reahty miserable
mortals, with their domestic affairs in a wretched
state, and harassed to death by pecuniary worry.
To retain this position they were obliged to fawn
upon society, which patronised them whilst their
amusing powers lasted, and shook them off when
they began to fail. About the middle of the last
century, however, a better state of affairs began
to prevail. Charles Dickens, for instance, entirely
refused to be trotted out, having the courage and
good sense to prefer friendship to patronage, and
congenial spirits to aristocratic connections.

The amusements of society seem rather to have
changed of late, principally, I suppose, owing to the
advent of the now ubiquitous motor. Bazaars —
fancy and otherwise — seem to have gone out of
fashion. They were formerly very popular, though
I do not know that the charities in aid of which
they Were generally organised benefited to any
considerable extent — the expenses were so large.
Wheedling visitors into buying aU sorts of useless
articles for a time became a favourite pastime of
certain ladies, some of whom became great experts
in this form of brigandage.

AN INGENIOUS STRATAGEM 155

One of the most ingenious stratagems ever
employed at a bazaar was probably that devised
by the famous writer, George Sand, when holding
a stall at a charitable sale in favour of distressed
Poles. Baron James de Rothschild happening to
pass, the fair saleswoman addressed him with the
usual request to purchase something. " What
can I buy ? " said the Baron ; " you have nothing
that I can do anything with. But stay ; an idea
strikes me. Give me your autograph ; sell me
that." Madame Sand took a sheet of paper, and
wrote the following words : — " Received from
Baron James de Rothschild the sum of one thousand
francs for the benefit of the distressed Poles. —
George Sand." M. de Rothschild read it, thanked
her, and presenting a note for the sum mentioned,
passed on with the autograph.

A great bazaar in which I took part was held
at Orleans House, at the time of the marriage of
the Comte de Paris with the Princess Isabelle
d' Orleans, which had brought to this country a
large number of foreigners of distinction. The Due
d'Aumale threw open his grounds and salons at
Twickenham for a fSte in aid of the funds of the
French Benevolent Society, founded in 1842 by
the then French Ambassador at this Court, the
Comte de St. Aulaire, for the reHef of poor French
residents in London, irrespective of reUgious creed
or poUtical opinions, and which counted among its
benefactors King Louis Phihppe.

On the lawn immediately on the river front
marquees were erected for the stalls, at which the

156 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

several lady -patronesses presided, dispensing at
royal and, indeed, at imperial prices, wares which
had been gratuitously contributed from all parts
of Europe for the benevolent purposes of the
charity. The first stall was occupied by her Royal
Highness the Duchesse d'Aumale, who, having
secured a large portion of her stock for nothing
(for it is believed her Royal Highness was positively
encumbered by a wealth of presents from all the
female branches of the royal houses of Europe),
sold it at a price utterly irrespective of aU notions
of political economy.

I knew the Comte and Comtesse de Paris. The
former, I think, never stood any real chance of
becoming King of France.

The Orleanists have always been rather back-
ward in taking active steps to estabUsh their
claims, and the Comte de Paris, though personally
a man of high courage, was no exception, though
from time to time he made energetic declarations.
At a meeting of adherents in London in 1858 he
was especially vehement, saying — " Better to die
sword in hand on French soil than languish with
disappointment and disease in exile." The only
comment made by Thiers upon the speech was
this — "We must get this fine lad out of the
atmosphere of resignation and submission to Pro-
vidence which surrounds him at Claremont — it will
ruin his spirit ! "

In later years the Comte de Paris made a fatal
mistake in associating his cause with that of
General Boulanger. However, many very able

BOULANGER 157

men believed in the star of this cafe concert hero.
Amongst them Lord Lytton, who wrote me —

Boulanger is the coming man here. All the
women are on his side and all the priests (two
great powers), and both are working for him in
their different ways. He already gives himself the
airs of a royal personage, and spends money Uke
water. Everybody is wondering where the money
comes from, and nobody knows. But I beheve
he presents to the churches aU the bouquets and
embroideries sent him by his fair adorers of the
demi-monde — and this so delights the old devotes
of the Faubourg that they send him daily cheques
on their bankers. I am to meet him at dinner
next week at a royaUst deputy's.

Some time after, when the " brave general "
was an exile in London, I too met him at a dinner
at Sir William Gregory's. Neither his manner nor
appearance impressed me favourably. As a matter
of fact, I thought him common-looking and rather
vulgar. Indeed, I could not conceive how such
a man could have ever produced such a stir. I
beheve his mother had been a Welshwoman, which
perhaps accounted for his having been able to set
all France by the ears.

Another French soldier of a very different kind
was my friend the charming and gallant General
GaUifet, whose pet aversion was the hero of the
Longchamps review just mentioned.

In April 1889 he wrote me the following semi-

158 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

humorous letter, which is very severe upon the
soldier whose political campaign was then creating
such a commotion —

Jour de PAques

Madame, — Je prenais la plume pour vous
demander si vous visiteriez bientot Paris et son
exposition, lorsque j'apprends que Boulanger,
cedant aux soUicitations de toute la haute Societe
anglaise, se decide a habiter Londres — ^je crains
bien que cette "exhibition" imprevue ne fasse
beaucoup de tort a 1' Exhibition de La France.

Je ne saurais trop vous recommander le General
Boulanger. II est un homme doux, n' ay ant aucun
parti pris sur n'importe quelle question politique,
mUitaire, industrieUe, et financiere. II a quitt^
la profession des armes parce qu'elle ne convenait
pas a son temp6rament pacifique. II pouvait
tuer Floquet en duel, mais il a pref^re recevoir
une blessure. II pouvait esperer la main de la
Duchesse d'Uzes, mais ayant constate que cette dame
n'aimait pas le savon, il n'a pas accepte sa main.

II pouvait habiter la Belgique, mais il lui
prefera I'Angleterre. Je ne sais m^me pas s'il
consentira a rencontrer le Comte de Paris ou les
grands personnages qui voudront s'instruire au
son de sa parole melodieuse ; je ne sais meme
pas s'il consentira a donner sa signature et a laisser
sa photographic en vente ! ! ! II sera probable-
ment accompagne de quelques personnes vraiment
distinguees. M. Henri Rochefort, qui a toujours
ecrit avec respect sur le compte de S. M. La Reine
d'Angleterre, — M. Naquet, qui a toutes les bosses,

GENERAL GALLIFET 159

— un Comte Dillon, qui ne doit son titre qu'a
lui-mSme, et quelques autres d'aussi haute con-
sideration. Neanmoins, chere Lady Dorothy, si
vous venez en France, veuiUez m'en avertir afin
que je m'efforce pendant votre sejour a Paris de
vous faire un peu oublier I'incomparable Boulanger.
Je mets a vos pieds Thommage de mon pro-
fond respect, ainsi qu'a ceux de Mademoiselle
votre fiUe, Gallifet

So bitter were the feelings of General Gallifet
against the Pretender, that any one who was on
friendly terms with his pet aversion at once fell
into his bad books. For this reason he even regarded
the late Lord L5rtton with some distrust —

En Manceuvres au Camp de ChAlons
LE 29 Aoilt 1889

Madame, — Je suis desole de ce que vous
m'apprenez de votre arrivee a Paris. Je serai
retenu ici et aux environs jusqu'a 11 'f'"- ce
que m'enleve toute chance de me mettre a votre
disposition pendant votre excursion a Paris.

Je vous recommande apres le tour Eiffel et
le galerie des machines, les galeries de peinture, —
vous serez a juste titre fiere de 1' exposition de
peinture anglaise qui est fort belle. Je crois bien
que " notre ami " ! ! ! le General Boulanger est
une connaissance dont nous ne nous vanterons
pas quoiqu'il lui arrive.

Je me dis au disespoir de ne pouvoir vous
6tre de quelque utilite a Paris. Merci beaucoup

i6o UNDER FIVE REIGNS

de votre lettre et des bonnes nouvelles que vous
me donnez du prince de Galles.

On me dit que Lord Lytton est reellement
tres menace des suites de la maladie pour laquelle
on I'a opere. Ceux que le connaissent beaucoup
disent qu'il est un charmant homme. J 'en suis
r^duit a les croire sur parole, car son penchant
pour le General Boulanger m'a prive du plaisir
de cultiver sa connaissance. II est certain que
Boulanger a du lui paraitre beaucoup plus " dram-
atique " que moi — c'est bien naturel.

Sur ce je me mets a vos pieds en vous priant
de me croire votre tres respectueux adorateur,

Gallifet

Though there were a certain number of great
hostesses and grandes dames in other days, I do
not think that woman generally played such a
prominent part in social matters as now ; the wives
of most of the great men were often content to
efface themselves. As a matter of fact, not a few
of the latter were mated with somewhat humdrum,
easy-going, good-natured women of small mental
attainments, and apparently liked them all the
better for their deficiencies. In past ages this
was even more common. How happily Racine
lived with his wife, and what an angel he thought
her, and yet she had never read his plays ! Goethe,
I believe, never troubled his wife, who called him
"Mr. Privy Councillor," with whims or stiff meta-
physical problems such as abound in the second
part of Faust. Probably these geniuses realised

UNCHANGING WOMAN i6i

that, as compared with themselves, there was
Uttle difference between the clever woman and
the humdrum one, and therefore, merging all minor
distinctions, relinquished attempts which could
but prove unsatisfactory to obtain their sympathy
in intellectual matters. Madame Talleyrand was
another case in point — a very fine woman, but
so very ignorant, that when she was introduced
to the celebrated French traveller, Denou, by her
husband, she thought he was Robinson Crusoe, and
inquired very particularly after his man Friday.

Nothing is more striking than the advance of
woman in the direction of taking the lead in social
matters, in having acquired a certain capacity
for organisation, and finally, in having completely
abandoned the affectation of feminine weakness
and sensibility which prevailed during early
Victorian times. Nevertheless, in spite of this
pose, they were much the same then as to-day in
the essential qualities of their sex. Then, as now,
man was their quarry. A cynic said —

" I have seen women so delicate that they
were afraid to ride, for fear of the horse running
away ; afraid to sail, for fear the boat might upset ;
afraid to walk, for fear that the dew might fall;
but I never saw one afraid to be married ! "

Even the exaggerated trappings of woe in
which custom formerly forced a widow to appear
were often powerless to conceal a desire for a fresh
alliance, and not a few widows were like the Chinese
lady who, being found fanning the tomb of her
deceased husband, was asked the cause. She
II

i62 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

accounted for this strange conduct by explaining
that he had made her promise not to marry again
while the mortar of his tomb remained damp ;
and as it dried but slowly, she saw no harm in
aiding the operation.

Perhap§ one of the greatest instances of philo-
sophy and good sense was exhibited by a husband
who, while leaving his wife a handsome sum,
provided in his will that, in case she again married,
the sum was to be doubled !

Of late doubts have been expressed as to
whether society of the Victorian age, outwardly so
decorous and dignified in comparison with that of
to-day, was not in reality somewhat lax. This is
owing to revelations which some declared cast an
entirely new light upon the past. As a matter of
fact, people were then in all probability much as
they are now, and the storms by which London
society was perturbed were mostly produced by
two causes — people not minding their own business,
and the betrayal of secrets which caused mischief.
A cynic used to say that only on one occasion in
his life had he seen people scrupulously minding
their own business — a remarkable occurrence which
happened at sea — the passengers being too ill to
attend to each other's concerns.

As for secrets, most of them, as was once said,
are kept in the street. With regard to the number
of persons who may safely be trusted with a secret,
there is no proverbial authority for believing it to
exceed two. We are told, in several languages,
that " The secret of two is God's secret, the secret

KEEPING A SECRET 163

of three is all the world's " ; and the Spaniards
say, " What three know, all the world knows."

A gentleman who had gained possession of a
valuable commercial secret confided it to a friend
who appreciated its value. A short time after-
wards this friend came to ask permission to com-
municate it under oath of eternal secrecy to a
friend of his who would be likely to assist in utilising
the secret to the best advantage.

" Let me see," said the original possessor of
the secret, making a chalk mark on a board at
hand. " I know the particulars — that makes one."

" One," said his friend.

" You know it," continued he, making another
mark by the side of the one already made, " that
makes ? "

" Two," cried the other.

" Well, and if you tell your friend, that will
be^ ? " making a third mark.

" Three only," said the other.

" No," was the reply. " One hundred and
eleven ! " (iii).

What harm has been produced by repetition,
with embellishments, of quite innocent secrets
thoughtlessly confided to people of little discretion,
and what scandal is caused by the publication of
ordinary gossip, in nine cases out of ten based upon
no solid foundation. The result of this was very
clearly demonstrated by the impression produced
by Lady Cardigan's book, which a short time ago
created so much commotion and surprise. It was
indeed declared that her volume of Recollections

164 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

threw an entirely new and rather unpleasant light
upon the ways of the leisured classes dtuing the
mid- Victorian Era, a period generally reputed to
have been remarkable for decorous adherence to a
high standard of life.

As a matter of fact, the vivacious Recollections
in question proved nothing at all, except that their
writer was possessed of a singularly imaginative
memory, particularly retentive of scandal such as
always has, and ever will be, talked.

I remember Lady Cardigan, as a girl, dancing
the cachuca with great verve, and this accomplish-
ment she has kept up, I believe, tiU quite recent
years; indeed, from the vivacity displayed in her
Recollections, she very likely dances it still. In
after years I saw but little of her, though Lady
Chesterfield, who was very friendly to her, told me
a good deal of her doings. I remember Lady
Chesterfield describing to me how she had extricated
the hostess of Deene from an awkward predicament,
into which she had been plunged by her irrepres-
sible vivacity. Lady Cardigan, as far as I remember,
was little seen after her girlhood in society, which
in her case sympathised with what she terms the
unkind and inconsistent pecuHarities of Queen
Victoria, who ever, according to her own account,
was prepossessed against her.

Lady Cardigan no doubt saw a good deal of a
certain kind of racing society — her uncle was Admiral
Rous — and it is hardly surprising that some of the
lively spirits with whom she consorted sneered at
and retailed scandals about those whom they

LADY CARDIGAN 165

deemed overbearing and self-righteous. In every
society since the world began there has always
existed a certain number of individuals who have
in some measure flouted the general standards of
life, and these invariably maintain that their more
rigorously behaved brethren are in reality no
better than themselves, and are delighted to retail
scandal about them.

This probably was the origin of many of the
stories with which Lady Cardigan filled her very
lively book. By a curious coincidence hardly
any (I do not indeed think there is one) of the
people about whom rather impish anecdotes are
told are alive. The stories in question certainly
cast a new and surprising light upon many who,
during their lifetime, did not seem to be the
rather despicable characters which they are here
painted.

Lord Ward, for instance (afterwards Lord
Dudley, and the father of the present Earl), notori-
ously behaved with the greatest consideration
to his first wife — ^his behaviour under certain
rather trying circumstances could not possibly
have been more gentlemanlike or generous. It
is, therefore, impossible to place any credence
in the ghastly story which Lady Cardigan retails
with such gusto.

As a matter of fact, the present Lord Colville
found a notebook of his father's which accounted
for every day during the month of November 1851,
and proved the impossibility of the horrible incident
which Lady Cardigan narrates, whilst the papers

i66 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

exist of the undertaker showing that the coffin
containing Lady Ward was brought straight from
Schwalbach to Himley, and never opened. This is
also vouched for by a sub-agent on Lord Dudley's
estate, who was a young clerk in the estate office
at the tinie.

I remember Lord Ward at Florence in the
forties, when, during the miserable carnival which
did anjrthing but enliven that picturesque town,
he created quite a sensation by throwing out
red-hot money to the boys and jugs of cold water
on the masks — ^practical jokes which procured him
a visit from the police.

Again, the memory of Maria, Marchioness of
Ailesbury, is very roughly handled in these sprightly
Recollections, where the writer teUs a story of having
abashed this lady of many ringlets by a reference
to her supposed peccadilloes. In case any one
should have taken this story seriously, I can only
say that, as one who knew Lady Ailesbury very
well, whatever her faults may have been, an ille-
gitimate family was certainly not amongst their
number.

Maria, Marchioness of Ailesbury, had been a
handsome woman in her youth, but retained
few traces of good looks towards the end of her
hfe, being then chiefly remarkable for a profusion
of ringlets and her deep bass voice. At one time
she had been bent upon marrpng Lord Wilton,
and this was so weU understood in society that
whenever she went out to dinner she was taken in
by him, even though this entailed her going in

AN ECCENTRIC DUCHESS 167

after people of inferior rank to herself. This
arrangement continued up till the time when,
much to Lady Ailesbury's disgust. Lord Wilton
married someone else.

. The depressing news was announced to her
by Lord Clanricarde, the father of the present
Marquis, upon which Lady Ailesbury at once told
him that under the altered circumstances she
should now expect to be given her proper place.
She afterwards proceeded to try and capture the
Duke of Newcastle, with a like ill success. Though
a very worldly woman^ there were many good sides
to her character, and as an old friend of hers I
feel sorry that her memory should have been
assailed.

Maria, Marchioness of Ailesbury, was hke several
other great ladies of the past, somewhat uncon-
ventional in her ways and appearance. An even
more striking instance of this was one of the
Duchesses of Cleveland, at a time when there were
three aUve. She was especially proud of her small
feet, her great object being to display them as
much as possible, whilst everything in her hall
was arranged to attract attention to the smallness
of her foot, shoes of all shapes and sizes being
prominently displayed. Besides this she was always
making a fuss about her foot-gear, which needed
constant attention in the way of lacing up or un-
lacing. At one time this old lady took a fancy
to going in a boat on the Serpentine, with her
footman to row her ; and she used often to go
to sleep, leaving the poor man, who did not dare

i68 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

to wake her up, watching her slumbering peace-
fully, while he ruefully contemplated the prospect
of losing his dinner.

This old Duchess had a doctor living with her,
in constant attendance, though his chief function
appeared tp be cautioning her guests against
indulging in side-talk at the table, as the old lady
did not like there being any conversation in which
she was not a principal speaker.

This is very illustrative of the despotic rule
exercised by certain ladies in old days. To-day
no one would stand such behaviour.

The last Duchess of Cleveland — Lord Rosebery's
mother — was an extremely clever woman. To the
end of her life she retained many old-world usages
unknown to a modern generation. In an invita-
tion to dinner sent me when she was over ninety
years old, she mentions eight as the hour " in
which we have the habit of dining."

Of a totally different kind was Caroline,
Duchess of Montrose, a lady who in her day was
one of the most prominent owners on the turf.
The youngest of three daughters, her father was
Lord Decies, and her mother a Northumberland
lady. Miss Horsley by name. This Lord Decies,
who was a grandson of Lord Tyrone and son of the
Archbishop of Tuam, was a wit and raconteur. A
favourite story of his described an amusing incident
which occurred between himself and a Radical
kitchen-maid. The latter, being dissatisfied with
the seat allotted to her in church, on one occasion
flounced into the family pew, where, seating herself

A UNIQUE FIGURE 169

beside him, she remarked in an audible voice,
" Anyhow, we are all equal here."

Through Lord Decies the Duchess inherited the
good looks of the Beresf ords, for which, in her youth,
she was celebrated. At a ball given at the British
Embassy in Paris, about i860, she created a great
sensation. To the end of her life she retained a pecu-
liarly fascinating voice, and except when provoked,
was possessed of a singular charm of manner. The
Duchess, perhaps, was wrong to have been so closely
connected with the turf, a form of sport not very
suitable for women, by nature creatures of impulse,
and besides prone to suspicion. Her stud of race-
horses used annually to cost her about £16,000 a year,
and altogether her racing expenses were very large.

In early youth the Duchess and her sisters had
been brought up in a hardy and even eccentric
manner ; the result, however, was not unsatisfactory,
for she never had but one illness in her life — ^the one
that killed her.

Another great social personality was the late
Mr. Alfred Montgomery, who was quite a unique
figure, and a survivor of another age. He was
a delightful companion, full of most amusing stories,
generally composed by himself.

He was at a large, fashionable wedding in a
cathedral town, and when all was over a friend said
to him —

" What sort of a woman is this lady ? "

" She is a nice, kind woman," answered Mr.
Alfred Montgomery, " but a fool, or she would
not be here ! "

170 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

A true saying, as the sequel proved.

A very different type of man who died some
years later, though equally known in society, was the
late Mr. Kenneth Howard, who has become quite a
permanent London institution, for during the last
thirty years* of his life I do not believe he ever left
London at all. Most of his day was spent going
from one club to the other, for he belonged to
several. For many years he had been in the Foreign
Office, and at one time went out a very great deal.
To hostesses he was invaluable, for by nature the
most suave, gentle, and courteous of men, he was
ever ready to assist them, and none better than he
knew know to furnish a list of the most eligible
young men for dances. Mr. Kenneth Howard
always spoke of himself as a poor man, and lived a
life singularly free from ostentation. Nevertheless
he left a good deal of money.

The late Miss Helen Henniker, another London
institution, did precisely the same thing ; for though,
during her lifetime, she was supposed to have but a
tiny fortune, she left a considerable number of
thousands, to the surprise of her friends, who were
legion. She was a most attractive and good-
natured woman, with a considerable sense of humour,
and very fond of amusement, though this did not
prevent her tending an invalid sister with the most
loving care. The sister in question. Miss Mary
Henniker, was confined to her bed for some years
before her death. She took a great interest in East
Anglia, and had for a time edited a publication
which dealt with that part of England.

TIRED AFTER POICTIERS 171

Confirmed invalids who have not left their room
for along period of time are subject to entertaining
all sorts of queer fancies, and Miss Mary would at
times speak of extraordinary dreams, so vivid that
they appeared to her to be realities.

" How are you, dear ? " asked her sister. Miss
Helen, one morning.

" Very, very tired," was the reply.

" Tired ? "

" Yes ; I want rest."

" Well, I should have thought that you had had
plenty of that, since you have never got up for two
years ! "

" That's all very well; but you'd be tired if, like
me, you had been at the battle of Poictiers all night."

VI

The uses of the season — Extravagance of the present compared
with the past — Pleasant dinner givers — Lord St. Heliers — Lord
Russell of Killowen — Mr. Choate — Lord James — Invercauld— A
real harvest home — Some friends — Anecdotes — Two great soldiers
—Sir Henry WolfE— Dr. Wolff— Anecdotes.

FROM time to time London society is attacked
for its luxurious ways and for spending so
much money on its pleasures. As a matter
of fact, the success of the London season is of
immense importance to a number of poor people
whose Ufe does not, at first sight, seem connected
with it, A bad season is a calamity to be deplored.
If a diminution in social gaieties merely affected
the well-to-do and the frivolous, there might be
some reason for deploring the sums spent on
entertainment, but a far wider circle of individuals
than is generally supposed suffer from a bad season,
for the money expended in the West End during
the summer months distributes itself far and wide
amongst the poorer classes of the town, and a dull
season, therefore, entails much disappointment
and even distress. That which affects Belgravia
is unfortunately sure to react upon Whitechapel.
For this reason those whose circumstances permit
them to entertain should do so, even at some

DRESS 173

sacrifice to themselves, in order to benefit their
humbler and more dependent neighbours. Not-
withstanding the plausible theories of political
economists, experience proves that thousands of
meritorious and industrious people procure an
honest UveUhood through ministering directly or
indirectly to pleasure and amusement.

The vast increase of luxury which has taken
place during the last twenty years has without
, doubt helped to save large numbers of people from
poverty, besides affording employment to hundreds,
even thousands, of girls, milliners and the like, who
have largely profited by the enormously increased
attention bestowed upon female dress. The in-
crease of extravagance as regards ladies' dress and
personal expenses may be realised from a com-
parison of the allowances made to girls sixty or
seventy years ago, and the sums they are permitted
to spend to-day. When my sister and I first came
out, our father gave her £50 a year, and to me (the
younger), £45. My mother spent on dress, etc.,
about £300, which was then considered very ample
dress expenditure for the wife of a peer such as my
father, who was a rich man according to the
standard of those days, and even to-day would not
have been considered a poor one.

At that time, when a man married a rich heiress,
it was the usual thing for him to take command
of aU her money, out of which he would make her
an allowance, which arrangement more or less
continued to prevail tUl the passing of the Married
Woman's Property Act some twenty-eight years

174 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

ago. The majority of husbands, however, who made
such matches were generous enough to their wives
(out of their own money), but in certain cases they
gave the poor women hardly anything at all. In
modern days this situation is only too often exactly
reversed, fQr numbers of wives now spend their
husband's money, whilst an impecunious man
married to a rich heiress is not infrequently reduced
to something of the status of a first footman.

As for the wife of a rich man of high social position,
fond of society, being content to spend only three
hundred a year on her clothes in these extravagant
times, I fear three thousand would in a great many
cases be below rather than above the correct figures.

Queen Victoria, as a young woman, was always
simply dressed. At a great ball given in her
honour at Stafford House, the Duchess of Suther-
land, gUttering with diamonds, wore a most mag-
nificent dress, whilst the Queen went in a simple
muslin embroidered in colours, and on shaking
hands with the Duchess, she said, " I come from
my house to your palace."

From her earUest years Princess Victoria seems
to have realised the responsibilities of her position,
and the necessity for preserving the dignity of the
Crown under all circumstances. As illustrating
this, an old Court official used to tell a story of the
young Queen on her return from the opening of her
first Parliament. Very much impressed by the
quiet dignity of her manner while crossing the
rooms in the Palace of St. James's, as she passed
through a door which led up a staircase to her own

A COSTLY CLAUSE 175

apartments, a wish came across him to know
whether this stately dignity would be maintained
after she had passed out of the sight of others. He
managed to satisfy his curiosity, and, at the foot
of the staircase, saw her roll her train round her arm,
then take up her dress all round, and like a girl, as
she was, run up two steps at a time, calling loudly to
some pet dogs, which were her especial favourites.

Though half a century ago comparatively small
sums were spent on costume. West End dress-
makers then, as now, sometimes made large fortunes.
Miss Jane Clarke^ for instance, the celebrated Court
milliner of Regent Street, who died in 1859, left
property which, including pictures, was estimated
at £80,000, the principal portion of which is said
to be left to the various charities of the metropohs.
A clause in Miss Clarke's will directed that she
should be interred in point lace.

Entertaining is now far more expensive than
was formerly the case, for to-day, besides the money
spent on first-class cooking, large sums are expended
upon various decorative accessories, such as flowers,
whilst things which were considered luxuries in
other days are quite common features of even
unostentatious dinners. Frequently, indeed, far
more attention is devoted to the dinner and
decorations than to the selection of the guests.

I do not think that the composition of dinner-
parties to-day is so carefuUy thought out as was
the case in the past. In these days of motors and
telephones, guests can of course be far more easily
got together, and therefore invitations are not

176 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

sent out so long beforehand as was formerly the
case. Still there exist hosts and hostesses who
leave no stone unturned to make their dinners
successful. High amongst these stands my dear
friend, Lady Hahburton, under whose hospitable
roof in Lowndes Square I have had the pleasure
of meeting most of the interesting and agreeable
people still remaining in London society. No one
better than she understands how to give dinners,
which is a very different thing from the mere
assembhng together of a heterogeneous collection
of people asked at random, without any reflection
as to how they will get on with another. Like
the great contractor who boasted that he himself
could perform aU the duties of any one of his
myriad of employees, I beUeve Lady Hahburton
to be so thoroughly versed in dinner-giving and the
intricacies of la haute cuisine, that, if put to it,
she could herself cook an excellent dinner, as well
as entertain her guests in the most perfect manner.
One note of sadness, alas ! lingers at her agreeable
board — the absence of my dear friend. Lord Hah-
burton, who, since I wrote the first part of my
reminiscences, has, to the sorrow of his numerous
friends, passed away, leaving a void which only
those who knew this kindly, genial, and clever
personahty can realise.

A frequent guest at Lady Hahburton' s is Mr.
George Russell, probably by far the best and most
cultured conversationalist left to us. To those
accustomed only to the vapid chatter which passes
for talk at so many modern parties, Mr. Russell's

LORD ST. HELIERS 177

admirably turned phrases and amusing anecdotes
must come as a veritable revelation. In his own
particular line he may be said to stand in relation
to the ordinary diner-out as Paganini stood to a
fiddler of the streets.

Another giver of pleasant dinners, where one
is sure to meet interesting people of all sorts, is my
friend, Mr. Charles Lawrence, a man of unbounded
energy, whose bright and vivacious nature makes
the lavish hospitahty dispensed by his wife and him-
self one of the most pleasant features of social hfe.

As regards parties, no one who was in the habit
of being asked to them will ever forget the deUghtful
assemblages of interesting people collected together
by clever Lady Jeune, now Lady St. Heliers.
Her husband, the late Lord St. Heliers, a great
friend of mine, was as fond of society as his wife,
and society in its turn ever welcomed his genial
personaUty. Lord St. Hehers, whilst the most
good-natured of men, could be trenchant enough
on occasion. Sitting one day next a gushing lady,
she somewhat wearied him by rambhngs of romance
and love, in which she declared herself passion-
ately interested. In particular did she vaunt the
Platonic form of that affection, at last saying,
"And you. Lord St. Heliers, I am sure, agree with
me that Platonic love really exists."

" I have heard a good deal about it," said he,
" but remember no case of its coming before me in
the discharge of my duties " — Lord St. Heliers
presided over the Divorce Court.

His wife, who, as I have said, was almost better

12

178 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

known by her former title of Lady Jeune, possessed
a peculiar faculty for discovering all sorts of in-
teresting people, who were to be met at the parties
of which I have spoken. The widely divergent
types of guest who assembled at her house gave
rise to many amusing stories. For instance, it
was said that an explorer who had penetrated into
a particularly wild and hostile region, having been
captured by its savage and cannibal inhabitants,
was bound to a tree by them preparatory to being
roasted and eaten. At this very critical moment,
however, their chief appeared, who, on seeing the
unfortunate explorer, addressed him in faijr
English.

" I know your face," said he, " we have met
at my friend. Lady Jeune's, and so instead of
dining off you, I shall ask you to dine with me and
tell me all the London news."

Another prominent figure of the legal world
who passed away many years before Lord St,
Heliers was Baron Huddleston, whose death
created a very sensible void in London society. A
witty, clever conversationahst, gifted with singu-
larly prepossessing manners. Baron Huddleston
devoted much of his energy to social advancement.
His marriage with the beautiful Lady " Di "
Beauclerck materially assisted him, it must be
admitted, both in this respect as also in his public
career. At one time on the most intimate terms
of friendship with the late Lord Chief - Justice
Cockburn, for certain reasons the friendship
altered into disUke, Sir Alexander Cockburn ever

BARRISTERS 179

after, it is said, persistently opposing Mr. Huddle-
ston's promotion to the Bench.

The barristers of old days were generally a good
deal rougher and more severe in manner than is the
case to-day. Some of the Old Bailey counsel were
little short of blustering bullies. Witnesses were
treated as if they were prisoners, and when at last
they could hardly speak from trepidation, the
judge would bellow out, " Why don't you speak up,
sir ? Speak up, or I'll not allow your expenses."
An unfortunate fellow, the conductor of an onlni-
bus, had been in vain entreated by the presiding
judge to exalt his voice. The enraged big- wig at
length laid down his pen, and turning on the witness
a furious countenance, exclaimed, " If you trifle
with the Court, witness, I shall commit you. Speak
out, man, as if you were on the steps of your own
omnibus." The effect was instantaneous, the
witness burst his trammels asunder, and his sten-
torian replies echoed through the court, till the very
walls rang again. The judge looked aghast, and at
the conclusion of the examination said to him, with
his hands upon his ears, " Witness, I shall allow your
expenses this time, but I hope you wUl never have
occasion to enter this court again ; and depend on
it, I'll never enter your omnibus."

Lord Brampton, better known, perhaps, as Sir
Henry Hawkins, was very stern on the bench, as were
many judges of the old school. One of these — very
deaf — ^who was the terror of prisoners, added to his
deafness by drawing his bushy wig well over his ears,
perhaps, as a roguish wag once suggested, to hide

i8o UNDER FIVE REIGNS

their length. When a witness was called into the
box, he would suddenly interrupt the counsel with
" Stop a moment " ; and then fixing his great boiled
gooseberry eyes full on the doomed individual, he
burst upon him with a furious " Now speak up, sir,
or I'll not allow your expenses." So much did this
habit grow upon him that, being somewhat given to
abstraction, he on one occasion replied to a whispered
observation of his brother judge with the usual
threat, whilst the general titter that ran through the
court scarcely seemed to convince him of his error.

There was a good deal of rough repartee amongst
counsel. " Now, sir, I give you fair warning," said
one of these to another, " that after the way you
have treated my witnesses, I intend to handle
yours without gloves." "That's more than any
one would care to do with yours, my friend," was
the retort.

The law, though great prizes await the successful
barrister, is probably one of the most overcrowded
professions in the world, though, of course, a number
of barristers never practise at all. Too many, indeed,
live without causes and die without effects. Many
barristers who have been brilliant men at the
bar are comparative failures on the bench, and
it has often been said that the qualities requisite
to constitute a good advocate and a good judge
are essentially different. Lord Russell of Killowen
was an example of the exact contrary, for his
acumen, strict impartiality and impressive dignity,
combined with good-humour, raised him to the
highest place in the estimation of all who knew him

LORD RUSSELL i8i

in his legal capacity, whereas in private life he
occupied a position of almost unequalled popularity.

Lord Russell's success at the bar was in a large
measure due to his striking personality. An3rthing
but a book-worm, he possessed a wonderful capacity
for turning his knowledge of men, acquired at first
hand, to good account in his profession. Instinct-
ively he knew what points he should seize. As an
advocate he could handle a witness with the greatest
gentleness or fly at him like a bull-dog. A member of
the bar once said that he produced the same effect
upon a witness as a cobra produces upon a rabbit.

One who had seen much of Lord Russell in his
legal capacity said : " Some men hammer in a bit of
a nail, and then leave it hanging loosely about tiU
the judge or some one else pulls it out."

When, however. Lord RusseU was practising at
the bar, and had got in a bit of the naU, he never
stopped tiU he had driven it right home, and no one
ever got that nail out again at aU.

Many anecdotes were told concerning Lord
Russell of KiUowen's partiality for the turf.

In his younger days, for instance, it was said that
at an Ascot meeting the wife of the Lord Chancellor
begged him to give her a good tip. Mr. Russell did
so, for the horse he had selected won, and the lady
delightedly exclaimed, " What a first-class judge
you would make ! " " Please tell the Lord Chan-
cellor that," was the clever barrister's reply.
Lord Russell was a most fascinating man in private
life, and well understood how to combine dignity
with wit. At a dinner-party one of the guests.

i82 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

who was of a facetious turn of mind, jokingly said,
" I am sure that if any of us were tried by the Lord
Chief-Justice he would be kind to them." " I
should certainly see that they obtained the justice
they deserved," said Lord Russell, whilst he looked
at the wag in*such a way as effectually to silence him
for the rest of the evening.

Amongst great lawyers whom I have known, one
of the most charming was Mr. Joseph Choate, who,
as American Ambassador, became such a popular
figure in London society. I have always had a
great liking for the clever men whom the great
Republic has from time to time sent us, and it was
with real sorrow that I learnt this most agreeable
and clever personality was to leave us. On coming
to say good-bye he brought me his photograph,
which hangs among those of some great men, Cobden,
Disraeli, Bright, and others whom it has been my
privilege to call friends. Mr. Choate was especially
clever and witty in conversation. As a lawyer,
many of the chief triumphs of an uninterruptedly
successful career had been achieved by his fascinating
humour and winning methods of persuasion, which,
it was said, caused even a defeated side to leave the
court in a state of mental exhilaration. Mr. Choate,
indeed, possessed the rare quality of communicating
the kindly geniahty which was such an essential
part of his nature, to all he met, and when he
smiled even the most soured individuals who might
chance to meet him, as a rule, could not help smiling
too.

Another dehghtful personahty who was a great

LORD JAMES 183

friend of mine was the late Lord Morris, full of
Irish wit and humour like the late Sir Frank Loek-
wood, — unforgotten by aU who knew him weU.
He served to bring a ray of sunshine with him
wherever he went. Lord James, known to a former
generation as Sir Henry James, was another great
lawyer who was a most popular figure in society.
Of late years he has lived much in the country. I
shall never forget his pleasant shooting parties, to
which so many agreeable people were asked. As
regards sport, however, on each of these occasions
an evil fate in the shape of the most atrocious
weather — who the Jonah can have been I do not
know — but practically without cessation storms of
wind and torrents of rain seemed to pursue poor Lord
James. This, I remember, was especially the case
once when he had a most brilliant and interesting
party of guests, which included the present King,
then Prince of Wales, and that most delightful of
men the late Sir John MiUais. So rough was the
weather that the front door could hardly be opened
at aU, Though the ladies gained by it, the enforced
abandonment of the sport was naturally very
annoying to the host.

Lord James stiU, I am glad to say, with his fine
intellect and health unimpaired as of yore, is
probably one of the kindest and most generous-
hearted men alive. I know of cases where he
has taken infinite trouble to relieve distress,
acting with almost Quixotic generosity ; and there
are those ahve whose declining days would have
been passed under the most poverty-stricken con-

i84 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

ditions, had it not been for this strong and sjTm-
pathetic nature, ever ready to lend his aid to any
one connected with his old friends.

In old days I used to go a regular round of
country-house visiting. Every year, for instance, I
went to stay a fortnight with Lord and Lady
Bradford (the parents of the present Peer) at Weston
Shifnal. Like myself, they were great friends
of Lord Beaconsfield, and he wrote constantly
to Lady Bradford. A very great number of these
letters are stiU preserved, but wUl probably never
be pubhshed. How much I used to enjoy going
to see Boscobel, with its associations of the Merry
Monarch, and Dilston, the home of the last Earl of
Derwentwater. After leaving I once paid a most,
pleasant visit to the Archdeacon of Durham,
married to the daughter of my great friend. Sir
Henry Thompson — they have two daughters of
exceptional cleverness, who greatly distinguished
themselves during their university career. Whilst
at Durham I was much interested in the tombs of
the Nevills, and in other memorials of their past
history, such as Brancepeth Castle, now, alas ! long
passed into other hands.

In particular do I remember a most delightful
visit to Invercauld, when the late Lord Glenesk had
it — the scenery seemed to me quite Alpine. The
roads were deep in snow, but instead of the merry
peasant traditionally associated with such scenes,
they were strewn with queens and princes and
fashionable folk.

Queen Victoria came over and had tea, and

A HARVEST HOME 185

Madame Albani stayed for three nights, on one of
which she sang divinely, and Wolff, the great
violinist, played. The Comte de Paris also came,
and was very nice — very eager about a new French
league I remember — the Rose League, to imitate our
Primrose organisation. We had indeed all sorts and
conditions of men on this occasion at Invercauld,
which was just like a vast hotel, with no trouble and
nothing to pay — added to which, of course, was the
delight of a most thoughtful host and delightful
hostess.

Of late years I have passed some very agreeable
days in Huntingdonshire, and more or less explored
that county by motor from Gaynes Hall, near St.
Neots, where my friend Mrs. Duberley dispenses a
charming hospitality. At Gaynes, in 1906, I
witnessed a real old-fashioned harvest home.
Following the old English custom, which I was
deUghted to see so thoroughly kept up by my
hostess, the last waggon — the last load home —
decorated with corn and boughs, drove up to her
front door. It was filled with thirty labourers of
the estate, who arrived singing, the oldest worker
of all afterwards contributing a quaint country
song, in the chorus of which aU the others joined.
The men were given presents of tobacco and a good
tea, my cousin, Lord Abergavenny, and I helping in
the arrangements. Lord Sandwich, who had come
over from Hinchinbrooke, was also present. It was
a picturesque scene, which brought back to our minds
the harvest homes of long past days, more than
seventy years before.

i86 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

When all was over the crowd dispersed, bathed
in the soft light of a glorious golden sunset, which
accorded well with the characteristically English
scene which had given all of us so much pleasure.

A very charming and clever young lady. Miss
Olga Montagu, who was present on this occasion,
wrote a most delightful little account of the scene
for a weekly paper.

Whilst on a recent visit to Gaynes Hall I had
the great pleasure of renewing an acquaintance
begun some sixty-five years ago at Munich, motor-
ing some twenty miles to pay a visit to Lady
Caroline Duncombe, now ninety-one years of age.

Though I had not seen her for such a length of
time, I recognised her in a minute; indeed, it
seemed to me that she had changed surprisingly
little since we had last met in the Bavarian capital,
in days when the modern world, as we see it now,
had scarcely come into existence. Lady Carohne
showed considerable pleasure at seeing me, and it
is needless to say that I was delighted with my
visit, which recalled so many pleasant recollections
of long past days.

Though the vast majority of my old friends
with whom I used to stay are now gone, in several
instances a pleasant connection with past days is
maintained, for me, by their children or grand-
children. Lord Glenesk's able daughter. Lady
Bathurst, who devotes so much of her life to th6
direction of the great paper which her late father
practically created, extends her charming hospi-
tality to me at Cirencester, and I often pay most

SOME FRIENDS 187

agreeable visits to Lord and Lady Burghclere, the
latter a clever daughter of Lady Carnarvon, one
of the sweetest women I ever knew, and a grand-
daughter of Lady Chesterfield, one of my intimate
friends of other days, who, before her marriage to
Lord Chesterfield (of racing fame), rejected two
suitors, both of whom, during their careers, became
Prime Ministers — ^these were the fourteenth Lord
Derby and Lord Beaconsfield, the latter of whom,
I believe, proposed several times. In a very great
number of instances, indeed, sons, daughters, and
grandsons are just as great friends as their elders.
A particular case in point is that clever literary
man, Mr. Austin Harrison, an intimate friend
of mine, like his highly talented father, Mr.
Frederick Harrison, whose delightful letters deal-
ing with current events are a great epistolary
delight.

Sir Herbert Thompson, the son of Sir Henry
Thompson, maintains the friendship which existed
for so many years between his father and myself.
Sir Herbert's interests are different from those of
his father, who never, I think, devoted his atten-
tion to Egyptology, which is the favourite study of
his son. Collecting blue china, writing, etching,
cookery, and dinner-giving (his dinners of eight,
which he called octaves, were celebrated), were
the favourite relaxations of the great surgeon in
whose society I passed so many delightful
hours.

Sir Henry was an interesting letter-writer, as
the following wUl show —

i88 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Farncombe Hill, Nr. Godalming
August 2yth
My Dear Lady Dorothy, — I am glad indeed
to hear you had so enjoyable a visit to Bruges.
It has always been a favourite resort of mine.
The little JBospital Saint Jean, with its Memlings,
which are all gems, attracts me immensely. And
you fell among your friends the priesthood, and
found one of that well-known and excellent t3rpe —
possibly now growing scarcer (?) — ^but I think it
must be so — a man of culttire, polished, a lover of
the arts — a man of the world, sympathetic —
blended with, or rather grafted upon, the " common
stock " furnished by the ordinary priest of the
Romish Church, common enough, indeed, most
frequently, and wholly unsuitable for the rare
products in question. And it was very pleasant
to come in for one of the great festivals of the
Church, and see it in aU its completeness, as you
would be sure to see it under the conditions de-
scribed. I am very sorry to hear of the decay of
the old place, and of its industry. I thought that
this could be scarcely possible, since lace is certainly
much appreciated by your sex, and they have more
money to spend in personal adornments than ever
they had ! The workers are making old and
discarded patterns and styles, certainly that must
be the reason, for with the knowledge and long
practice of the craft they might surely be able
to supply the kind now most in vogue. The
Venetian lace workers have greatly changed, and
have retained much of their employment in con-

STRATHFIELDSAYE 189

sequence. I think Lady Layard has helped them
in that way greatly at different times, and she took
personal interest in the matter, being there so
many years.

I am glad you seem pleased with the new
book. It is much more complete than the last
edition, and is attracting notice in the journals. I
saw there was a whole column in the Daily News
yesterday — I want to get all the notices I can. My
very best wishes. Kind regards to Meresia, and
hope she wiU profit by her country quiet life. —
Always sincerely and affectionately,

(Signed) Henry Thompson

In the time of the second Duke of Wellington
I was a constant visitor at Strathfieldsaye. I have
described the interesting parties given there in my
previous volume.

What delightful times I have passed in this
house, full of pleasant and intellectual people.
The second Duke always used to dine in a sort of
low passage room, the walls of which were covered
with illustrations cut from Boydell Shakespeare.
These were pasted upon the wall in a regular pattern
which produced a not unpleasant effect, the
simphcity of which the third Duke rather altered
by surrounding the edges of the engravings with
borders of gold. In the second Duke's time a splen-
did dessert service, beautifully painted with views,
which had once been the property of Napoleon,
was always used, for he carried on the household
exactly as in the time of his father, the victor of

igo UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Waterloo, and would make no change in anything.
Though entertaining no objection to tobacco him-
self, he would allow no smoking whatever in the
house itself, except at night after the ladies had
retired to bed. He would then inform the gentle-
men that those who wished to smoke could do so
in the servants' hall, where they would find every-
thing prepared for them, and to the spacious
apartment in question would then adjourn the
various notabilities of which his parties generally
consisted. Here, seated on plain, old-fashioned
wooden chairs, great statesmen, diplomatists, and
soldiers would often sit puffing their cigars tiU a
late hour in the morning, just as contented and
happy as their more luxurious successors of to-day,
many of whom would probably despise such
homely surroundings. If the old walls of this
servants' hall could speak, what interesting
secrets and recollections they should be able to
tell, for it was a brilliantly intellectual circle which
often gathered there.

The old Duke was exceedingly blunt on occasion,
and sternly repressed any pretensions not based
upon truth. On one occasion a literary man, who
had been asked to Strathfieldsaye for the first
time, talked much of his knowledge of the great
foreign statesmen of the day, with a view to showing
the intimate terms which subsisted between him
and them. At first he spoke of Bismarck, till
every one wished the Iron Cha;icellor had never
been born, and the following day it was evident
that Gambetta was to be rendered equally hateful.

o
o

K
u

to

n
o

K
H

fa
O

O

A GLORIOUS DAY 191

" A good-natured man this Frenchman," said the
irrepressible talker, " and fond of sending little
souvenirs to those he likes. He sent me this cigar-
cutter only the other day" (showing a trinket on
his watch chain). " Then I suppose," broke in
the Duke, " that Bismarck gave it to him, for
yesterday it had belonged to the Chancellor. You

are becoming confused, Mr. , you are becoming

confused." For the rest of the visit we heard no
more of either Bismarck or Gambetta.

The third Duke made many alterations. For
instance, he hung in the hall one of the flags which
the Dukes of Wellington annually present to the
sovereign in memory of Waterloo. A certain
presentation of this banner was, according to
current report, connected with a very dramatic
incident.

The flag, which is presented to the reigning
monarch on every i8th of June by the Duke of
Wellington as an act of homage and service to the
Crown, whereby he holds his estates, was, as usual,
forwarded to Windsor, and by Lord Munster
placed before his dying father. WiUiam iv lightly
grasped its folds, and almost with his last words
uttered, '' Ah, that was a glorious day for England."

I was on terms of firm friendship with the
second Duke for nearly thirty years, till his death.
Full of quaint sayings, he was especially trenchant
as regards women, and used to say, " There is a
Devil in everybody all owing to Eve's apple."
He maintained that men should recognise that
women were not perfect, and not be too severe upon

192 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

their wives — a blind husband never had any
quarrels. As he once wrote me, "Eyes are some-
times in the way, and I have always thought your
blind brother's wife most fortunate, for more
reasons than one."

He often said that match-making was a murder-
ous respoWbility, and that he, like Rostopkin,
could boast that whatever had been his crimes he
had never recommended a wife or a doctor or a
cook !

The Duke was very ready in some of his replies.
Before he became Lord Lieutenant of Middlesex
some one wrote to him asking for the Coronership
of the county. The answer was characteristic —

My Dear Johnson, — Your clock goes too fast.
Watkins is in perfect health, and I am not yet
made Lord Lieutenant. — ^Wellington]

The late Lord Lytton, like myself a great
admirer of the Duke, wrote me one of his delightful
letters at the time of the latter' s death in 1884.
Rightly, I think, he deemed our old friend to have
been fortunate in his death, " How sudden and
startling it seems to have been," he wrote. " Yet
I do not think one could wish for oneself or one's
friends a last voyage more free from the usual
discomforts. It is just the sort of death I should
desire for myself — sudden, short, and painless. For
he cannot, when the moment came, have suffered
at all. I suppose, however, that no one has ever
shuffled off this mortal coil, or been shufiSed

A FAITHFUL FRIEND 193

out of it, without enduring some of the thousand
sufferings inseparable from the instinctive effort
to live. To be snuffed out quickly while the flame
of life is still burning clear and steady, how much
better this seems than the long slow guttering and
sputtering of the wasted candle choking in its
socket, and all the painful paraphernalia of the
sick room ! These he escaped ; yet, after all, it
seems to have been only by a distribution of the
preliminaries of death over the closing years of
life — the gradual loss of sight and hearing — ^the
pertinacious cough, the repeated operations, and
those tormenting allies in the struggle for life, the
doctor and the surgeon. He had bravely won
his last painless moment. I have thought much
of you since I heard this sad news, knowing that
you have lost a faithful and a charming friend.
Who wUl inherit the wit of your departed friend,
or preserve amongst us the features of the hero of
Waterloo ? "

The Duke had a great affection for the memory
of his father's war-horse, which had, for sixteen
hours, carried the victor of Waterloo during the
fateful battle, after which little Copenhagen gaily
kicked up his heels. This grandson of Eclipse
was remarkable for both his gentleness and his
spirit, and passed his old age in honoixred retire-
ment at Strathsfieldsaye, where visitors were
accustomed to feed him over the rails with bread.
When Copenhagen died in 1836, the great Duke
ordered a salute to be fired over his grave, and so
the good horse was buried as he had lived, with
13

194 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

military honours. In after years the second Duke
moved the grave, and erected a stone with an
epitaph written by himself — the story of this
I gave in my former reminiscences. The Duke
was fond of writing scraps of verse, and on the
occasion of the reburial of the old horse sent me
the following —

A crowd of victories attest his toil.

And traced his footsteps on the gory soil.

But Waterloo, where set the Tyrant's star,
To horse and rider gave release from war.

The stuffed skin of Copenhagen was kept for
some time in the Tower of London, from which I
believe it was afterwards transferred to the Royal
Victoria Hospital at Netley, in the museum of
which institution it may still be.

I have known all the Dukes of Wellington and
all the Duchesses, except the Iron Duke's wife, whom
I never saw. Only recently I have been dehghted
to make the acquaintance of a Duchess of Welling-
ton who is to be — Lady Douro, a most charming,
unaffected, and clever young lady, to whom I was
at once much attracted. It is a great pleasure to me
to think that this name, associated as it is with some
of the most glorious pages of English history, is to
be borne by one who seems to me to possess brains
as well as beauty.

I remember being introduced to the Iron Duke.
As is well known, he was the bluntest of men, and
particularly intolerant of fussiness of any kind.
When, for instance, a question arose as to whether
the military salute should be given to a Protestant

THE IRON DUKE 195

bishop in Canada, his Grace rephed that the soldiers
were to pay no attention to an37thing about the
prelate but his sermons.

Lady Katherine Pakenham, the wife of the great
Duke, was married to him after a lengthy engage-
ment. During his absence in India illness had much
impaired her looks, and she offered to release him ;
but a man of unflinching determination as regards
his honour, he stuck to his engagement — perhaps
it would have been happier for both had he not done
so. The Duchess once told some one (the conver-
sation having turned upon keeping resolutions),
" When I was a girl I made three resolutions.
First, I determined that I would never marry a
soldier ; secondly, that I would never marry an
Irishman ; and thirdly, that I would not be long
engaged. And all those three resolutions I broke.
I married the Duke of Wellington, a soldier and an
Irishman, after an engagement of twelve years."

The statue of the Iron Duke, which now stands
surrounded by four soldiers in the dress of Waterloo
days (a good idea), though much care was taken by
the sculptor, can hardly be deemed satisfactory.

According to the few who had known the Duke, it
was purely an imaginary likeness. One of them
exclaimed on seeing it : " That man (the sculptor)
can never have seen Wellington ! There is not a line
in that form, nor an expression in the whole figure,
which recalls to me for one moment the Duke as I
remember him, and he was a man whom, once seen,
you could never forget, for there was something
about him so unUke other people ; he was the Iron

196 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Duke, and no one else," It seems a pity that such
a likeness should be allowed to stand in the capital
of the country, to give a wrong impression to future
generations. The grotesque statue at the top of the
Arch at Hyde Park Comer, now at Aldershot,
though a gross caricature, was far more like him,
besides which, the Duke himself approved of it.

The present Duke and Duchess do not care to
live at Strathfieldsaye, and the quaint old mansion
stands empty and deserted. It is to be hoped,
however, that it will some day once more renew the
traditions of hospitality which cling about its walls,
though, of course, the old house (originally the
abode of that great lover of coursing. Lord Rivers)
would need some alterations to bring it into a con-
dition suitable to the more luxurious requirements
of modern days.

Lord Wolseley used to stay a good deal with the
Duke, who had a great admiration for him. As a
thoroughly modern soldier, eager for ef&ciency at
the cost of the time-worn routine to which the old
school clung with iron tenacity. Lord Wolseley was
at times, I believe, bitterly worn out by the opposi-
tion of reactionary officials and old officers who,
without the least knowledge of war, meddled in
matters merely because they had the power to do so.

The state of the army, indeed, much resembled
that of a patient who, having sent for a great
physician of tried ability, is persuaded by injudicious
old friends to aUow them to argue with him about
his treatment, and finally to rely upon their amateur
and obsolete remedies.

TWO GREAT GENERALS 197

Lord Wolseley had made war the study of his
life, had had great personal experience in it ; never-
theless, dealing with military matters; he was
badgered and hampered by a pack of Secretaries of
State, Surveyor-Generals, and the like, who thwarted
and opposed him in many directions. However,
he did effect many reforms and anticipated many
more which have now long been recognised as
absolutely essential to the efl&ciency of a modern
fighting force.

He wrote me some very entertaining letters
when abroad. At Berlin he was, I remember,
once very much amused at a statement made by the
Hereditary Prince of Saxe- Weimar (a nephew of my
dear friend Prince Edward, who died some years ago).
The Prince in question insisted that all English
officers when in full uniform either do, or at least did,
carry umbrellas. On this occasion Prince Bismarck
sent to say he wished to see Lord Wolseley, which the
latter declared was the greatest compliment ever
paid to him.

Lord Roberts is another soldier who links the
best traditions of the old school with modern times.
As I reminded him a short while ago, the first
occasion on which I was asked to meet him I was
disappointed, for he never appeared. This was after
his return to England, when he had become such a
hero owing to his Afghan campaign. My old friend
Sir Henry Rawlinson had issued invitations to a
dinner which he was going to give in honour of Sir
Frederick Roberts, and his guestswere aU lookingfor-
ward to meeting the general who had made the famous

igS UNDER FIVE REIGNS

march to Candahar. It was the year of the pheno-
menal snowfall, and I remember a path had to be dug
across the street in which Sir Henry Rawlinson and
I both lived in order to enable me to reach his house
a few doors off. The late General Hamley, who
came to fetoh me, had real difficulty in getting to my
door, and our journey of a few hundred yards was
quite an adventure. When we did reach Sir Henry's
we were much disappointed to find that the guest
of the evening could not come — he was at Croydon,
and so deep was the snow that communication with
London was blocked, so our evening reminded us of
Hamlet with the Prince of Denmark left out.

In the eighties I used to see much of the
politicians of the day. Lord Randolph Churchill,
Sir John Gorst, and Sir Henry Drummond-Wolff —
three of the Fourth Party — were constant guests of
mine at luncheon on Sundays, for in those days
people did not go out of town for the end of the
week very much. It was indeed at my house
that Sir Henry first discussed the formation of the
Primrose League, which afterwards developed into
such a successful organisation. He was sanguine
about it from the very first, as he usually was about
any new idea of his. However, in this case his con-
fidence was justified. The son of my aunt. Lady
Georgiana Walpole, and Doctor Wolff, the great
traveller and missionary, Sir Henry was a most
amusing man, and he inherited none of his father's
more serious characteristics.

He had entered the Foreign Ofi&ce in the days
when (as he told us in his Recollections) the young

A LOVER OF FUN 199

gentlemen employed there were not obliged to live
a very strenuous life, eventually becoming Com-
missioner for the Ionian Isles. He then went
in for politics, sitting as member for Christchurch
and Portsmouth, and distinguishing (if such a word
is applicable) himself by violent opposition to
Mr. Bradlaugh's being allowed to take the oath,
though, as a matter of fact. Sir Henry himself
was not an extraordinarily religious man. After-
wards returning to diplomacy, he became Minister
at Teheran and then Ambassador at Madrid. Sir
Henry was full of fun, and one of the best raconteurs
of the day. A most kindly and generous man in
business matters, he was his own enemy, for,
having bought a large tract of property at Bourne-
mouth in the days before that resort had developed,
he made absolutely nothing out of it; and died a
poor man.

To the end of his life he retained a great love
of fun, and his lively conversation abounded in
quips and jokes.

Owing to his talents in this direction the Re-
colledions which I have mentioned were expected
to contain many amusing stories, and they certainly
did, though of course Sir Henry's own particular
form of wit — ^bright, sparkling, and evanescent — was
essentially of that spontaneous and ephemeral
kind which seldom bears being transferred to
paper. An irrepressible lover of fun, it is rather
remarkable that this did not seem to stand in
his way — he joked with everybody, even the late
Lord Salisbury, I beheve, who was not at all fond

200 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

of frivolity. In any case, he placed the greatest
confidence in Sir Henry, with whom he was always
on the best of terms, and allowed him to telegraph
more words than any other English diplomatist
has ever probably done; for, as was well known.
Sir Henry, especially when Minister in Persia, had
a positive 'craze for telegraphing home. This,
of course, cost a great deal of money, and it was
said that no one else but "Wolff" would have
been allowed to do it. Never was there a more
open-handed man, for he expended every penny
of his salary entertaining in the most lavish manner —
altogether, as I have said, quite different in char-
acter from his queer old father.

Dr. Wolff's history had been very adventurous.
He had gone twice to Bokhara in the days when
such an expedition was highly dangerous, his second
journey being to ascertain whether Stodart and
ConoUy, who had been made prisoners there, were
still alive, and if so, to try and negotiate for their
release. He found they had both been murdered,
and that his own life was in considerable danger ;
he was plundered by a band of robbers, deprived
of everjrthing he possessed, left without food or
clothes, and was almost unable to move, having
been cruelly bastinadoed.

As a missionary in the East he had many
adventures. He is said to have owed his safety,
whilst travelling in Bokhara and the surrounding
regions, to the respect which the inhabitants of
that part of the world have for mad people, for
the doctor's entry into the town of Bokhara in a

DR. WOLFFS DIARY 201

surplice and college cap reading, I believe, the
English Church service; fully convinced the Bok-
harans that he was insane, and consequently must
not be touched as a holy man.

Those were the days of great missionary en-
thusiasm, though many wicked stories were told as
to conversions.

Polygamy prevailed in New Zealand, and a
chief with ten wives was told that he could not
be baptized unless he confined himself to one.
At the end of about two months he repaired to the
nearest missionary, and stated that he had got rid
of nine. " What have you done with them ? " was
the natural interrogatory. " I have eaten them,"
was the unhesitating reply.

Dr. Wolff once published a book of recollections
— a sort of diary, as far as I remember — which was
very original in character and singularly out-
spoken. In this he constantly spoke of himself in
the third person, and Biblical phrases, such as
" the Lord said unto Wolff," were abundant.

Several people were very severely criticised in
its pages, some being bluntly called fools, which
caused remonstrances to be made to the author,
with the result that he promised to make altera-
tions in a subsequent edition. When this appeared,
however, things were found to have been made
rather worse, for where a man had been called a
fool before. Dr. Wolff had added a note saying —
" I am informed that the expression is out of
place. I therefore hasten to alter it — ' stupid fool '
is what should have been put."

202 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Sir Henry, I believe, did all he could to buy
up aU copies of this book he could find, being for
some reason or other (for there was really no par-
ticular harm in it) desirous of blotting out its
memory altogether.

Dr. Wolff had been successively a Jew, a
Catholic, and finally a Protestant, after joining
which faith he became a clergjrman of the Church
of England, and a good one. When he was a
student at Weimar in 1811 he pursued his studies
under Director Ling, son-in-law of the celebrated
Saltzmann; who carried on a college for foreigners
near Gastein. Johannes Falk, the satirical
poet, took much interest in young Wolff, who
told him of his desire of becoming a Christian,
when Falk said, " Wolff, let me give you a piece
of advice : remain what you are, for, if you remain
a Jew, you will become a celebrated Jew ; but, as
a Christian, you will never be noted, because there
are so many other clever Christians in the world."

On one occasion Falk and Wolff, walking together,
met Goethe, who disagreed with Falk's advice, and
said to Wolff, " Young man, follow the bent of
your own mind, and don't listen to what Falk
says." He was a very happy-go-lucky sort of a
man, always losing his way.

He used to wander round and round his house,
which astonished people ; when his wife would say,
" Oh ! it's only Dr. Wolff trying to find his way."
It was wonderful how such a man had ever found
the road to Bokhara.

As a Catholic Dr. Wolff had been in a Swiss

A CURIOUS COURTSHIP 203

monastery, where he resolved to submit to the
discipKne — flagellation included. About this he
said : " I set to work, and it was in the dark that
I gave myself the first lash, which I did not Uke
at all. Consequently I turned round to see how
my fellow-monks got on ; when I saw, by the
hght of the moon, one of the monks flogging, not
his own back, but the wall. ' The hypocrite ! '
said I to myself, ' I will give you something ! ' on
which I applied my own whip to his shoulders."

Wolff was for this, I believe, turned out of the
place, which led to his becoming a Protestant.

He had a great opinion of himself and of the
clever race to which he belonged, and when he
talked of his marriage with my aunt, Lady Geor-
giana, would say, by way of teasing her, "I, a
Rabbi, and the son of a Rabbi, demeaned myself
by marrying the little Shentile woman ! "

My aunt, I believe, was first captivated by
Dr. Wolff at an Exeter Hall meeting, where he was
delivering an address. She happened to sit quite
close to him on the platform, and during a vehement
piece of declamation the doctor, gesticulating
and waving his arms, struck her lightly on the eye.
Pausing for a moment to apologise; he surreptitiously
inquired who she might be. " Lady Georgiana
Walpole/' was the reply, upon which Wolff re-
marked, " That woman shall be my wife," and
went on with his speech. It was some little time
before the two met again.

A wicked story used to be told as to how their
courtship began. Lady Georgiana at the time was

204 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

well over thirty years old, and not at all a beauty.
Dr. Wolff was just then being lionised after his
return from Bokhara, and the couple sat next one
another at a luncheon party. As fate would have
it. Lady Georgiana chanced to drop her fork on the
floor, wh^;h the distinguished traveller picked up,
and while doing so pinched her foot. The caress in
question, entirely novel to Lady Georgiana, made
such an impression upon her that she fell in love
with its giver, and very soon they became engaged.

At first Lady Georgiana' s family were very
averse to such a match, my father in particular
was for a time violently opposed to it ; eventually,
however, he relented, and arranged to have an
interview with Dr. Wolff. My father, one of
the old school, thought a good deal of his family,
and said so ; Wolff, however, was in no way im-
pressed. " Our children, Lord Orford," said he,
" will be of glorious lineage, for in them will be
united the holy blood of David with the illustrious
blood of Walpole."

Dr. Wolff was anything but an Adonis in
appearance, and his wife, as I have said, was not
at aU remarkable for beauty. My father, I re-
member, who at times had a sharp tongue, used
to say if WombweU (a famous menagerie keeper of
the day) could get hold of those two, his fortune
would be made.

VII

Political friends — Lord Iddesleigh — Mr. Chamberlain — Letters —
His charming wife — Lady Chesterfield — Mr. Bright — Victorian
Radicahsm — ^Two great leaders — Lord Beaconsfield — Letters —
Mrs. Brydges WUlyams — Favourite flowers — Lord Sherbrooke —
Mr. John Bums — Sir George Dibbs.

AMONGST my political friends I always remem-
ber the late Lord Iddesleigh, such a gentle
and charming man, better known as Sir
Stafford Northcote, who, when he was in the House
of Commons, had a good deal of trouble with the
more turbiilent members of the Conservative party.
They thought his methods too pacific. His whole
nature indeed was peaceful, and one of the reasons
he left behind him hosts of sorrowing friends, one
of whom was the late Duke of Cambridge, who,
at the time of Lord Iddesleigh's death, wrote —

Gloucester House, Park Lane, W.
Thursday Evening
My Dear Lady Dorothy, — ^This is indeed a
most sad catastrophe that has befallen us, the death
of dear Lord Iddesleigh, and so painfully sudden, a
great shock I should imagine to Lord Salisbury,
and a great blow moreover to the Government. I
am so grieved about it, but do teU me what caused

2o6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

all the misunderstanding that has taken place. I
cannot quite make it out, and probably you may
know. I am so glad you liked your stay at Sand-
ringham. I have always said their dear R.H.'s
are the most charming couple, and the most de-
lightful hosts it is possible to conceive, and all
who know them must love and like them. I will
try to see you either to-morrow, Friday, or Sunday
at tea-time, to talk matters over with you. What
think you of Bismarck's speech ? I think it mag-
nificent, and only wish we could have him over here
for a few months, when he would soon dispose of
our Irish difficulties, which to my mind are not
progressing at all favourably. — I remain, yours most
sincerely, George

Another very old friend of mine is Mr.
Chamberlain, whom I have known and admired
for so many years. Mr. Chamberlain has been a
far-seeing man. Twenty-seven years ago he saw
the advisability of a measure which I believe wiU
form part of the next Conservative programme.

Highbury, Moor Green, Birmingham
Jan. 4th, 1883
Dear Lady Dorothy, —

Have you read two books lately published — Pro-
gress and Poverty, by H. George, and Land National-
isation, by A. Walton ? They come to the same
conclusion, "I'ennemi c'est le proprietaire," and they
advocate the same remedy, namely, confiscation of
property in land. I am told that these books are

PEASANT PROPRIETORSHIP 207

being eagerly read by the working classes in London,
and that the feeling in favour of drastic measures is
growing.

In aU seriousness, if I were a large landowner
I shotild be uneasy. They are so few, and the
landless are so many. There is only one way of
giving security to this kind of property, and that
is to multiply the owners of it.

Peasant proprietorship in some form or other,
and on a large scale, is the antidote to the doctrines
of confiscation which are now making converts. —
Believe me, yours very truly,

J. Chamberlain

At the time when Mr. Chamberlain wrote,
a feeling of resentment against great wealth, and
especially wealth drawn from land, prevailed. This
was very similar to that exhibited by the extreme
Radicals during the last two years — the resentful
attitude towards the dukes was also prevalent.
In 1885, for instance; a prominent Liberal politician,
a prof OS of the Duke of Bedford of that day, who
had just left his party, wrote to me —

I sympathise with the poor Duke of Bedford —
at least I should do so, if he had not been mean
enough to take a Lord-Lieutenancy just before he
announced his conversion.

I suppose he is dreadfully straitened — not
more than £300,000 or £400,000 a year left. I do
not understand, however, what he is going to
invest in. Does he flatter himself that the Radicals
will be satisfied with confiscating land ? I advise

2o8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

him to emigrate to the United States, which will soon
be the only country where a rich man will be safe.

Another letter of that date, written by the same
hand, contains a very accurate forecast of what has
actually come about —

The Whigs as a Party are played out, and the
next great fight will be between the Tory Democrats
and the Democratic Radicals. It will never do for
the latter to be out-bidden, so you must prepare for
something very drastic.

Mr. Chamberlain, as I have said, has politically
always looked far ahead. Before the defeat of the
Unionists in 1906, he deplored the timidity which
permeated the party. Attack, not defence, he saw,
was the best chance of success, and with respect to
this he wrote —

40 Prince's Gardens, S.W.
June 21st, 1904

Dear Lady Dorothy,— Many thanks for your
note. The Primrose League is as timid as the other
wire-pullers. They do not see that the best policy
is to take the offensive, and they allow their op-
ponents to force them to fight on the defensive
against Chinese Slavery, Education, Licensing, and
aU the rest of it, whereas their true policy would
be to carry out a flank attack with Fiscal Reform.

However, they must go their own way to
destruction !

Market Harborough and Devonport have turned
out exactly as I predicted. If they do not take

AN IDEAL HOME 209

care, Chertsey will be the same. Good Lord !
What fools they be ! — Yours very truly,

J. Chamberlain

It was once rather wittily said that politicians
make fools of themselves — lawyers of others —
women of both. If the latter be true, how vexed
many of the poor ladies must be to find how often
nature has forestalled them !

In his home life Mr. Chamberlain has been
peculiarly fortunate, for no pne ever had a more
perfect wife than he. Mrs. Chamberlain's devoted
care for her husband during his recent illness, with-
out doubt, has been the cause of his restoration to
comparative health. She is the most charming
woman imaginable, and I only wish more American
brides were like her. I had once expressed my
doubts as to the complete success of marriages
between Enghshmen and damsels from across the
Atlantic, for which reason Mr. Chamberlain wrote
me the following when he married —

Highbury, Moor Green, Birmingham
yd November 1888.
Dear Lady Dorothy, — I shall not have the
pleasure of seeing you during the autumn session
for a reason which I am sure you will recognise
as a good one. When this reaches you I shall be
half-way across the Atlantic, and I do not expect
to return home tiU Christmas.

I am going to the United States to marry Miss
Endicott — one of those American girls whose
14

210 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

importation into this country you once depre-
cated so strongly in my hearing. You said, " I
Hke the Americans very well, but there are two
things I wish they would keep to themselves —
their girls and their tinned lobster."

I am rgady to give up the lobster, so you must
be prepared to like the girl. — Believe me, yours very
truly, (Signed) J. Chamberlain

Whilst it seemed to me that some of the mar-
riages between Englishmen and American girls
were to be deplored, I always had a liking for
Americans generally, and did not agree with my
friend, Lady Chesterfield, who once wrote —

I cannot see why people go over to America.
The changes from heat to cold are so sudden it
does not suit an EngHsh temperament.

She also entertained a feeling of resentment to-
wards the Irish, and in the same letter she said —

Ireland appears worse than ever, they are not
firm enough, the Government allowing ParneU to
speak the trash he does, in Dublin itself. The
Irish require losing a little blood, they would find
it best in the end. The loyal Irish and the poor
police are the great sufferers, both here and in
England. The last three days have been beautiful.
I should think a great amount of corn must have
been got in, and the corn, if not sprouted, has this
year been abundant.

Some of the Conservative ladies of the old

THE IRISH PROBLEM 211

school were very capricious. The wife, for instance,
of one of the most prominent men in the party,
being asked to lend her carriage to assist in con-
veying voters to the poll, declared that she would
only do so if she could be fully assured that the Con-
servative candidate would be successful. " We do
not care," said she, " to be associated with failure ! "

Like Lady Chesterfield, most of them regarded
Ireland as a country requiring very stern treatment,
for they had been brought up in such an idea.
Poor Mr. Forster, when Irish Secretary, had perhaps
the most difficult task ever set an Enghsh politician,
being roundly abused, and even threatened, during
his term of office. Mr. Forster, playing whist one
night at the club with a very exacting partner,
happened to revoke. His partner's look of indig-
nation impressed him with such remorse that he
exclaimed, " CaU me any name you like, call me
Buckshot," — alluding, of course, to the nickname
which had been fastened upon him by the Irish
Nationalists.

At that time the Irish problem before the Govern-
ment seemed well-nigh hopeless, A large number of
souls squatting on poor mountain patches, quite
incapable of supporting in health one-tenth of the
people, trying to exist on their little holdings, who
would not emigrate. One well acquainted wrote to
me : " Are we to feed them whilst they live in idle-
ness ? They won't even enlist. They are a hopeless
people, full of wit, humour, and politics, but without
any wish beyond that of having to pay no rent, and
allowed to continue in their dirt, idleness, and

212 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

squalor." Since those days, however, the land
purchase legislation inaugurated by Mr. George
Wyndham seems to have produced a happier
state of affairs, and Ireland, in all probability,
will become a thriving, prosperous, and contented
country pf peasant proprietors,

I visited Mr. Chamberlain but a short time
before the last election, when I was delighted to
find him much stronger and better, and doing more
political work than at any time since his illness.
Inundated as he was, owing to the election^
with requests for messages from candidates all over
the country, it had become a matter of consider-
able difficulty to deal with so many,- for even though
such messages be short, their composition must
of necessity take time and thought. Both of his
sons were fighting in the political fray, speaking
every night. Mr. Chamberlain's second son —
Neville — of whom not very much has hitherto
been heard, is a man of extraordinary abUity and
cleverness. Though he has not entered the House
of Commons, he takes the keenest interest in the
cause for which his father has been such a splendid
fighter. The whole Chamberlain household, in-
deed, had thrown themselves heart and soul into
the fight, with the exception of the great Tariff
Reformer's grandson — dear little Joe, who had not
yet taken to the stump, and stayed at home, an
infinite joy and source of pleasure arid amusemoit
to his grandfather, by whom he is adored.

Mr. Chamberlain talked of politics, upon which,
as ever, all his interests are concentrated, and we

a
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fa

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JOHN BRIGHT 213

discussed the prospects of the Unionists at the
coming elections. In general appearance he was
little changed, but I noticed that he wore no orchid.

I think it was at the house of Lord James of
Hereford, -then Sir Henry James, that I first met
the other great politician whose career was so much
connected with Birmingham — John Bright. After
this he used to come and see me from time to time,
and we had many an interesting talk together, though
I never got to know him as well as Mr. Cobden.
Bright always struck me as "being of a much rougher
and more rugged nature than the latter, who,
besides his great gifts as a politician, possessed
much social charm, as was universally recognised
by those privileged to be his friends. Mr. Bright,
I think, lived almost exclusively for politics,
whilst Mr. Cobden could on occasion entirely detach
himself from them.

What a fine speaker Mr. Bright was. Alas ! there
is no one like him to-day; and of most political
speeches it may be said that one hears the humming
of the wheel whilst never able to perceive any thread.

From time to time Mr. Bright used to come
and see me, but his time was so occupied with
politics that social matters of necessity played
quite a minor part in his life.
He wrote me in 1884 as follows —

132 Piccadilly
22nd July '84
Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I am going
down to Rochdale on Thursday morning, having

214 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

to preside at an enormous gathering of Reformers
at Manchester on Saturday. I must have one
day at home before I go to the meeting. It is
rather unlikely that I shall come back to London
during the rest of the session, of which I am
weary, and therefore I fear there is no chance of
my being able to have the pleasure of another call
upon you, which, I hope I need hardly say, I much
regret.

Your leader has given us much trouble. Arro-
gance in a statesman damages statesmanship.
I hope our Party will do further good to our oppon-
ents, tho' they have not shown much gratitude
to us for our past services. We try to serve our
country and must therefore serve them. — Believe
me always, sincerely yours,

John Bright

The Lady Dorothy Nevill

45 Charles Street, Berkeley Square

A short time later Mr. Bright became separated
from his party on the question of Home Rule.
As a matter of fact, it is probable that had Mr.
Gladstone been a younger man at the time when
he introduced the Bill he might eventually have
seen it passed into law. His powers, however,
were not what they had been, and during the debates
some thought that the great Liberal leader was
an5rthing but at his best. One who was present
wrote to me —

The G.O.M. certainly did not play his cards
well last night, and must have added considerably

VICTORIAN RADICALISM 215

to his opponents by his line of argument, and
" General" Hartington seems to have done extremely
well, and much credit is due to him for his honest
and manly speech. I can't help thinking that
with this Bill the G.O.M. will also be disposed
of. His vexation will not be beneficial to him in
any respect.

This forecast came true, for, with the rejection
of the Home Rule Bill, Mr. Gladstone's great
political career was virtually ended.

The Radicalism of the Victorian Era, or at
least Radicalism as it was understood in the West
End of London, was nothing like as fierce as
that of to-day, being a good deal tempered by
that mild Whiggism which is now but a political
memory. Nevertheless Radicals of a type which
to-day would be considered moderate, were any-
thing but welcome to many who classed them as
being persons vaguely dangerous and likely to
produce uncomfortable changes. Radicals, for
some reason or other, were said to be partial to
wearing beards. As a matter of fact, Mr. Muntz,
a Radical, charged with Chartist associations, is
supposed to have been the first member of Parlia-
ment to have worn a beard.

At heart most of the aristocracy considered
themselves as the bulwark of the nation, and could
not conceive England without a hereditary ruling
class.

Ardent Conservatives used jokingly to pretend
to regard Mr. Gladstone as a terrible revolutionist,

2i6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

and lost no opportunity of showing their dislike
for his political principles. On one occasion, when
I had sent to a famous nurseryman of Maidstone for
particulars of some new apple trees which I wanted
to obtain, he forwarded a list with " The Gladstone "
at the top^. When I wrote back enclosing my
selection, I could not help saying that I was sorry
to see that the place of honour amongst his apples
had been given to one bearing a name likely to
upset all good Conservatives. The pomologist was,
however, quite equal to the occasion, for he replied
that he was just as good a Tory as myself — they
only grew the apple that they might devour it.

As a matter of fact, though Mr. Gladstone was
regarded as a sort of revolutionary monster by
many old-fashioned p'eople, by no means a few
Conservatives would be only too pleased to see
him back in power once more in the place of the
present leaders of the Liberal party, for without
doubt he would curb the extravagant utterances of
some of the wilder spirits^ whose main object appears
to be to promote hatred between high and low.

Mr. Gladstone, whatever might be said against
his policy, was always courteous and dignified,
besides which he was undoubtedly sincere. It
used, however, to be wickedly said that when he
had doubts about the real merits of any measure
which it seemed advisable to bring forward, he
always set out to convince himself first, and, in-
variably succeeding in the task, was then able to
support it with all the strength of unwavering
conviction.

THE LAST PRE-REFORM M.P. 217

Looking back, one realises what great person-
alities Mr. Gladstone and Lord Beaconsfield
possessed — their very names sounded like trumpet
calls to their adherents, and the picture of one or
the other hung in cottages all over England. I do
not think the portraits of any of our modern
politicians, except Mr. Chamberlain's, inspire any
particular enthusiasm amongst the people.

The great difference between the politicians of
the past and those of to-day would seem to be
courage, common enough amongst the former,
rare amongst the latter. With respect to this,
hard things have been said about some of our
modern statesmen, one of these having been
characterised as having the temper of a pirate
and the courage of a nurserymaid, whilst a witty
Irish member described another as a bad man to
go tiger-shooting with.

I have known many different kinds of political
men, from the old Pre-Reform member to the
Socialist of to-day.

My sister's husband, the fourth Earl of Mex-
borough, was, I think, the last survivor of the Pre-
Reform M.P.'s. As Viscount PoUington he had,
in 1831, sat for the now long disfranchised borough
of Gatton. Lord Mexborough died in 1899, when
in his ninetieth year. The Duke of Northumber-
land, also a survivor of Pre-Reform parliamentary
life (he had sat for the now extinct borough of
Beeralston in 1831), died also in this year, seven
months before my brother-in-law.

The politicians of the past took, I think, a more

2i8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

serious view of the world in general than, those of
to-day, who are far more apt to trim their sails in
order to run before the various currents which
modern Democracy produces. The older school
were generally cautious as regards any new de-
parture in politics, and their utterances were
inspired by considerations of the grave responsi-
bility which attaches to public speech. The
modern politician, on the other hand, seldom
hesitates to voice, no matter how startling, any
opinion which for the moment it may suit him to
possess.

Self-advertisement at any cost would appear to
be the aim of many. Such people remind one of
the apt definition of a certain type of pubhc men
once given by a schoolboy. The lad was an inmate
of the Northern Counties Asylum for the BUnd at
Carlisle. Being asked at a meeting of the Governors
to describe the exact meaning of the word " poli-
tician," he described it as meaning an ignorant,
noisy fellow, who busied himself about public
matters of which he knew nothing ; but the con-
trast, he added, was the man who devoted his time
and talents for the public good, and for the benefit
and enlightenment of his country.

The modern Radical probably is more eager
to see various reforms effected than the Liberal
politicians of the past. " Good gracious ! " ex-
claimed (it is said) an old Radical stalwart, noted'
for his cynicism and humour, on hearing of some
of the doings and proposed doings of the present
Government — "why, these people are actually

PARLIAMENTARY CUSTOMS 219

trying to carry out some of the things which we
contented ourselves with promising ! "

In spite of the progress of Democratic ideas,
many old mediaeval forms are still retained in
Parliamentary procedure. As is well known, the
Sovereign's consent to Acts of Parliament is still
given in the old Norman French — " Le Roy le
veult."

The ofi&cial record of the assent of one House
to a BiU passed or amended by the other is also
in the same tongue, whilst a BiU sent up to the
Lords is endorsed " Soit bailie aux seigneurs."

If the latter approve it, their assent is expressed
by the words " A cette bille evesque des amende-
mens les seigneurs sont assentus."

The Royal assent in the case of a Supply Bill,
where the Commons vote money to the Crown,
is as follows — " Le Roy remercie ses bons sujets
accepte leur benevolence et ainsi le veult."

I believe also that traditional customs as to
wearing the hat and the like still continue in the
House of Commons.

Mr. Chamberlain wore his hat in the House a
good deal, but Mr. Balfour, I believe, does so rarely.

Lord Beaconsfield, when Mr. Disraeli, it is
said, was one of the first distinguished members
of the House of Commons never to wear his hat
at aU there. Mr. Gladstone certainly never wore
his, and on one occasion when he had need of one,
in order to comply with a curious rule (which
compels a member whilst speaking seated after a
division has been called to wear his hat), he was

220 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

obliged to borrow that of the SoUcitor-General —
Sir Farrer Herschell as he then was — ^whose hat
turned out to be much too small for the Grand
Old Man, which vastly amused the House.

On the other hand, Mr. Asquith has introduced
an entirely new fashion at political parties, the
practice of the Prime Minister assisting a hostess
in receiving her guests, and shaking hands with
those she has invited, being quite an innovation,
which irresistibly recalls the receptions given in
the past by the Siamese twins, or the famous
dwarf, General Tom Thumb, at which every
visitor was entitled to a handshake from the
attraction of the evening. The great fault of this
social departure seems to me to be, that the host and
hostess who, of all present, should be accorded
the greatest consideration in their own house, are
of necessity overshadowed and practically ignored
owing to the star of the evening being pushed so
prominently forward. I cannot imagine the
Prime Ministers of the past playing such a part
in other people's houses. Neither Mr. Gladstone
nor Lord Beaconsfield would probably have cared
for such an innovation.

Lord Beaconsfield's whole career was an extra-
ordinary exemplification of what cleverness, com-
bined with energy, can effect in the face even of
powerful and apparently insurmountable diffi-
culties. In the earlier, and even in the middle
portion of his political life, he was scarcely taken
seriously by some of the shrewdest judges — ^like
Bernal Osborne, they thought there was "too

LORD BEACONSFIELD 221

much tinsel about Dizzy." He had enormous
difficulties to contend against, and was at one
time much hampered by financial worries, which
I know preyed heavily upon a mind far above
money. His mental gifts, to triumph as they did
against so many disadvantages and against so
many highly gifted opponents, must have been far
greater than can be realised to-day, when political
life abounds in mediocrities not to be compared to
the politicians of the great days of the Victorian
Era.

Lord Beaconsfield was, above all, practical in his
aims, and when unable impressively to convince or
sarcastically to confute his opponents, he would
peld to the force of popular reasoning, and throw
up the defence with a smile, perhaps just tinged
with contempt. Imbued with an almost eastern
liking for romance and splendour, as his writings
show, he never allowed such a tendency to obscure
the more serious objects of his life — indeed, the
proclamation of Queen Victoria as Empress of
India, in a great measure the reaUsation of an
almost Oriental dream, has now been universally
recognised as a wise, practical, and far-seeing Act.

At the beginning of his career Lord Beacons-
field had had to face very bitter opposition, arising
not only from political reasons. This, however,
he practically quite overcame when his high quaU-
fications had become recognised ; nevertheless there
were individuals who retained a bitter antipathy
to everything connected with the name of Dis-
raeli. When D' Israeli Road, Putney, was built

222 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

in the seventies of the last century, one resident
manifested the greatest objection to the name,
which he showed by obHterating it. Pohce court
proceedings ensued. He was summoned by the
Board of Works, and made to pay a fine.

Lord Beaconsfield, in his House of Commons
days, was ever very self-confident and not un-
assertive. Once, however, when addressing the
Speaker, he said —

" Mr. Speaker, I have some modesty, I hope ! "
A voice from under a hat below the gangway snuffled
out, " Your hope teUs a very flattering tale, I'm
afraid."

Lord Beaconsfield could not, I think, be called
a good correspondent, but there was always a
characteristic touch in his letters. Witness the
descriptive allusion at the end of the following —

iith April 1858
Dearest Dorothy, — I am afraid you wiU
think, from the date of this, that I am almost as
bad as Lord Macaulay ; but, indeed, from some
indisposition, and great business, it is the only
moment I have had to thank you with my own
hand, for aU your profuse and sweet recollection
of me.

The strawberries were as fresh, and as de-
licious, as yourself, and came to me at a welcome
moment, when I was spiritless and feverish. Their
arrival was a reviving touch of nature in one of
her most popular and agreeable forms. Accept,
dearest Dorothy, a thousand thanks from me, for

LORD BEACONSFIELD AS A YOUNG HAN

A CIRCUMSPECT WRITER 223

all your unceasing recollections of your friend,
whose affection for you requires no proof.

There are the Duke and Duchess of Aumale,
Lord and Lady Hardwicke and their daughter,
and Lord Sandwich, staying here until to-morrow,
like myself ; and the neighbours dined here also
yesterday, in the shape of the Duchess of Kent, the
Van de Weyer, and Sir Ed. Codrington.

The sun is very bright to-day, and the Castle
and its broad demesne look very brilliant. The
masonry glitters, and the trees are sparkling with
the burst of spring ; but when you get out of doors
the illusion vanishes, and the east wind cuts you in
two.

Now, I am going to Chapel ; I wish it were
St. George's Cath. ; but, alas ! no. My kind
regards to Mr. Nevill. — Your affectionate,

D.

In his letters Lord Beaconsfield rarely alluded
to politics. I think he had trained himself to avoid
dwelling upon this subject, being probably of the
opinion that one in his position should be highly
circumspect as to committing to paper intimate
details as to matters of State. Occasionally, how-
ever, he referred to passing pohtical events.

On 24th April 1861, for instance, he wrote to
me —

We are at the commencement of a great
struggle. On Monday I executed a reconnaissance
in force, which will probably be continued for a
week, and during that process I expect to find

224 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

out the weak point in the enemy's position, and
shall in due course give them battle. Every night
I come home from a most anxious and exhausting
field.

Again, on 3rd May 1871, he wrote —

We have a very stirring session and very
amusing, but I trust it will not be more than that.
Humpty-Dumpty has had a great fall, but I hope
we shall get him on the waU again.

Though a writer of short letters, there was
always a characteristic note about what he wrote,
and often a descriptive touch, quite in accordance
with the style of the author of Lothair. This is
noticeable at the end of the following —

HUGHENDEN MaNOR

^th December 1862
Dear Dorothy, — Maryanne has requested me
to be her secretary, and tho' I am a bad letter
writer, it is always agreeable to write to you.

In your last letter, which had no date, you talk
of being in town the beginning of November, and
speculate on the chance of meeting us there — but
the post-mark of your letter is November 17th,
and it reached us, of course, two days afterwards.
Is it possible that it was mislaid ?

Hughenden is now a chatDs, for Maryanne is
making a new garden. She never loved her old
one, and now she has more than twenty navvies
at work, levelling and making terraces.

LETTERS 225

We have as many workmen inside of the house,
for altho' I always thought that, both from form
and situation, I was safe from architects, it turns
out that I was wrong, and Hughenden House will
soon assume a new form and character.

In a week we go to Devonshire, and you will
justly say, full time to do so. After a fortnight at
Torquay, we are going on for a few days to the
Normanbys, who are dwelling in Lord Mount-Edg-
cumbe's winter viUa. Then we shall pay a visit to
our Lord Lieutenant, who lives at Gayhurst, fifty
miles and more from this, a very different country,
in the land of Cowper, and lowing kine and pastoral
meads, whereas we dwell in beech-clad hills and
among trout-streams and water-cresses — then wiU
come Parliament !

Adieu, dearest Dorothy. Nevill, I hope, is
well. — Your affectionate, D.

He generally made use of some curious expres-
sion. In a letter written to me about my brother's
portrait, for instance, he speaks of languishing
for it —

Hughenden Manor
August ^rd, 1873
Dearest Dorothy, — Mr. Buckner says the
picture is quite finished, and is in its frame, but
that he has received no positive instructions from
Lord Orford as to sending it. He presumes,
however, he may venture to do so, if I wish
it, etc.

But this would be an unwarrantable liberty,
15

226 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

and Walpole might be justly offended by such a
step on my part.

Nevertheless, I languish for the portrait,
which I delight in, and as I want to give it a place
of honour in my gallery, it prevents my definitely
arranging, its fellows.

Where is Walpole ? and cannot you com-
municate with him ? by telegraph ? Help me,
dear Dorothy. — Your affectionate D.

The cause of the shortness of Lbrd Beaconsfield's
communications was, no doubt, the immense
amount of correspondence which he was obliged
to undertake. This occasionally, as he says in
the subjoined note, made him forget whether he
had written or not —

ID Downing Street, Whitehall
November i^ih, 1877

My Dear Dorothy, — I really am quite at a
loss to remember whether I wrote to you or not
about the Ch. Excelsa, which you so kindly sent
to Hughenden, and which, I know, safely arrived
there. I shaU soon see it, for I hope to be home
in a few days. Then, too, I will make a search
for the " New Republic," which they assure me is
there. I wish all its characters were, for Hugh6nden
would then be amusing.

Did I, or did I not write to you about it
when I returned from Eridge ? I have to write
so many letters that I can't decide, and my con-
science would prick me, if I had neglected to tell
you how very pleased I was with the book ; very

MRS. BRYDGES WILL YAMS 227

witty and rather wise ; and almost unequalled
as a first effort. — Your affectionate

Beaconsfield

We used to correspond a good deal about
horticultural matters, for he was fond of his garden
at Hughenden. Curiously enough, however, I
never heard him express any particular admiration
for the primrose, which it is always said was his
favourite flower. Nevertheless, it is quite possible
that it was. An old lady, Mrs. Brydges Willy ams,
of Torquay, who was a great admirer of his, used
every spring to send him bunches of this flower
from her Devonshire garden.

For years this lady was a great reader of Mr.
Disraeli's works, and one day she wrote to him
stating her intention of leaving him all her pro-
perty. At first he thought this was nothing but
a joke, but soon afterwards a second letter arrived,
containing a cheque for a thousand pounds, and
an invitation to Torquay. Mr. Disraeli went,
and more than confirmed the favourable impression
which his writings had produced. He paid several
other visits before Mrs. Willyams' death in 1856,
when she left him her house and property, amount-
ing together, I think, to some thirty thousand
pounds. She had for years been a well-known
character at Torquay, where she never went out
for a walk without two very ugly but perfectly
inoffensive bulldogs. Mrs. Brydges Willyams, as is
weU known, was buried in Lord Beaconsfield's vault
in Hughenden Churchyard.

228 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Most great men have been allotted some flow
so it is only fitting that Lord Beaconsfield shot
have his.

Bismarck's favourite floral emblem is said
have been the shamrock. Not that the Iron Cha
cellor had the least sympathy with the ev(
turbulent peasantry of the Emerald Isle, whoi
had he had them to deal with, he would probat
have treated with Cromwellian rigour.

Mr. Gladstone, it is said, manifested a stroi
predilection for the blue cornflower, though tl
old-fashioned sweetwilliam was often facetious
associated with his name. The cornflower,
believe, was also the favourite blossom of the o
Emperor of Germany, Kaiser Wilhelm the First

The Napoleonic violet originated from tl
great Emperor, on his departure for Elba, havu
promised his intimate friends that he would retui
in the violet season. Corporal Violet becan
their favourite toast, and they wore gold rin;
bearing violets in enamel, with the motto, " El
reparaitra au printemps." The violet has neve
theless be6n an unlucky flower to the Buonaparte
The Empress Eugenie wore some violets in hi
wreath at her wedding, which at the time cause
some people to prognosticate misfortunes, whic
eventually did happen.

Never very much given to conversation, Loi
Beaconsfield in his later years talked little whe
in society — men of his stamp, although they posse:
the gold of conversation, seldom have its sma
change. To me, however, he was always a deligh

MR. LOWE 229

ful companion, for I had known him ever since I
was a girl, in the days when I remember meeting
Count D'Orsay at his house.

With the lapse of time Lord Beaconsfield's
political reputation seems to have in no way de-
creased.

How really great he was, time alone can decide.
In private life his friends remember that he was
an attractive and lovable man in his own peculiar
way, possessed of a gentleness and kindness some-
what rare in a rougher age than the present.

His end was such as he himself could have no
reason to regret. England had had time to show
its love to him, and he had suffered no sensible
diminution of power and prestige. Thus it is
that great men must wish to depart.

Another great friend of mine was Mr. Lowe,
afterwards Lord Sherbrooke, who once played a
considerable part in English politics.

Though a strenuous politician, he was facetious
enough in private life, and wrote very bright
letters.

On one occasion, when I had not written to him
for a long time and then asked for his photograph,
Mr. Lowe sent me the following chaffing epistle —

A truly Christian spirit has at last enabled me
to forgive you for your abominable treatment of
me, in proof whereof I send you a photograph,
which I understood you to ask for, though I can't
conceive how it can be that you have not one
already. In fact I believe that you have, and have

230 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

given it away. I hope you will be warned by the
grand spirit of revenge which I have shown on this
occasion not to trespass too far on the lamblike
sweetness of my nature, which certainly deserved
from you much better treatment than it has re-
ceived. JMy wife is certainly much better, less
pain and less sickness, but I have been obliged to
give up my visits to Drayton and to Highclere,
and am kept here in fog and solitude, unable to see
anything and to speak to any one, for there is no
one here. I know no news, and can't even get up
an excitement about the Fenians, who don't even
understand their own detestable trade. They are
always found out before the time comes. As
Curran said of them, they make d — d bad subjects,
but worse rebels. You see Abyssinia has come to
grief already. Just as I thought. These siUy
people planned the thing as if it was an ordinary
country they had to deal with, and now are ludic-
rously unable to deal with the very first obstacles
which present themselves. They have not fore-
sight or energy enough to push themselves on into
the far greater difficulties that await them. How
they think they are going to live, to shelter, and
to feed many thousand men in the interior during
the rainy season, I can't conceive.

Mr. Lowe, as wiU be observed, was bitterly
hostile to the Abyssinian campaign, which he
always declared would end in disaster. Fortu-
nately, bis vaticinations did not prove entirely
accurate.

A TRENCHANT CRITIC 231

When the photograph did arrive, it turned out
to be a little larger than the ordinary carte-de-
visite size popular in the sixties, for which reason
Mr. Lowe wrote, " I send you my photographed
self. The picture has been magnified, and a little
distorted in the process, like the sins of the original."

During his political career Mr. Lowe occasionally
met with much hostility. When, for instance, he
stood for the borough of Colne, in Wiltshire, there
was great hostility, which lasted for several days,
and on one occasion he had to escape through the
back window of the Lansdowne Arms, whence he
got away from the mob to Chippenham.

He was a most amusing, though rather trenchant,
critic. For instance, after reading Mr. Mundella
on arbitration, he wrote me that it only seemed to
prove that when you quarrel it is better not to
fight — " a sentiment to which," he added, " I
entirely subscribe." In the same letter he wrote
about a mutual friend —

Somebody, perhaps you, has told her she was
like Gil Bias. She has read the book, which she
never read before, to see what sort of a chap he
was, and is very angry.

Lord Sherbrooke, in his House of Commons
days, was cynically bitter about his opponents, the
Conservatives, whom he used to accuse of being
ready to adopt any tactics likely to further their
ends. At the time when the question of the Irish
Church was very acute he wrote to me —

233 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

I rather think that last Friday was the death-
blow of the Government, though I know them fai
too well to suppose for a moment that they mean
to resign. Indeed there was an article in the
Standard yesterday using very bad language
towards the Irish Church, which seems as if they
were, as I* said, not so much anxious to save the
criminal as to have the hanging of him themselves.
But this policy comes, I think, too late. We cannot
always be executing volte-face rnovements, and
the very attempt shows a poverty of invention
not creditable to Dizzy.

Owing to his wife's ill-health, Mr. Lowe travelled
a good deal to foreign health resorts. He was at
Carlsbad in 1867, when he wrote to me as follows—

Mindful of your desolate and afflicted state,
I write you a line to keep up your spirits by telUng
you how miserable I am, which wiU, I doubt not,
be a source of solid consolation to you in your own
distress. Our journey here was nothing short oi
infernal. The heat was tremendous, and we were
reduced to beg at every station between Coblentz
and Wiesbaden for water, which one often did not
get. At Wiesbaden there is gambling, and conse-
quently rather pleasant society — Lord Clarendon,
Lord and Lady Derby, Lord Cadogan, and so on.
I spent a nice day there. I went to Frankfort the
day the King of Prussia came, and the Cathedral
was burnt down — the Cathedral, I suppose, in
which Gretchen had her celebrated dialogue with

CARLSBAD IN 1867 233

der bose Geist. The next day it rained, and I
thought my miseries — heat and glare which I hate
above all things — ^were over, but the heat has
returned with redoubled force, and I don't know
how to breathe. My bedroom is cooler than the
rest of the Polar Star, but it is within 6 feet of the
door of a noisy estaminet which poisons and dis-
tracts me, but I prefer it to the heat of the front
room. Ben Stanley and Mrs. B., the Bernstoffs,
Mr. Rouher, the Grand Duchesses Helena and
Marie, and divers Princesses are here. Not a very
promising programme. There is no table d'hote,
and no society except stopping and talking in the
street. As people come here really for health,
there is not a pretty woman in the place. On the
other hand, the doctor assures me that Carlsbad
is quite as much needed for me as for my wife (to
whom it don't seem to be doing much good as yet),
and that it will save me a painful disorder. I try
to believe it, but you know how difficult it is for
me to believe anything. The place is really very
pretty, only it is so hot that one can hardly crawl
about to see the beauties. While I write the
sky is clouding over, and " Hurrah for a good
thunderstorm." Write to me and teU me how you
are and what you are doing. — Yours,

R. L.

Lord Sherbrooke used often chaffingly to abuse
me ■ for my lack of political principle, for I have
ever been good friends with both Liberals and
Conservatives, placing cleverness far above all

234 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

political differences. One of the most agreeal
men I have met during recent years is Mr. Jo
Burns, for whom I entertain the very high(
admiration. I remember him as being consider
a terrible revolutionary. I have, however, knoi
a good rriany of such revolutionaries, who are p(
sonal acquaintances, turn out to be the most deligl
ful of men. Such a one was the late Sir Geoi
Dibbs, who, when he came to England, was suppos
to be very Radical — some said almost republic
— in his ideas. This may or may not have been t
case, but I feel pretty certain that he left th(
shores with no hostile views as to what are vulgai
known as the Upper Classes. During his visit
became most popular with those whom he m^
and I know that his experiences of English 1
imbued him with the warmest admiration and lo
of the mother country.

He was an indefatigable worker, and had cc
fronted many difficulties with indomitable ener
and unsparing toU, as the following letter shows-

Chief Secretary's Office, Sydney
15th June 1893
My Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I have ji
closed my talking shop after a session of ten montl
which would have kUled even old Gladstone — a
his Home Rule Bill. Just fancy having surviv
thirteen votes of censure in nine months, a
stronger as a Government at the finish than wh
we started — ^and will see the end of this Pari
ment and perhaps the next one through.

LADY DOROTHY NEVILL AND MR. JOHN BURNS AT THE OPENING OF
THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM

A COLONIAL CRISIS 235

You ask me when I am coming to London
again. If I were my own master I would say to-
morrow, and be off the next steamer ; but I am at
anchor with a falling exchequer and big financial
difiiculties to surmount, but surmount them I will,
and my strength lies in the education I was put
through in London last year. I long to repeat it,
but at present the way is barred by the simple
word duty I

Our Colony has gone through a frightful crisis,
and I had to act boldly and promptly — here
again my London trip stood me in good stead.
Kindly read the enclosed clippings from one of
our daily papers, and you will learn what I have
done for these people. For six weeks I never left
my office to go home — but once — the storm is over
■ — the ship saved, and now the people are going mad
to testimonialise me. I pitched my own future
over to save my honour, and did it.

Gladstone was right when he said a young man
should avoid politics — ^but all the world's a stage,
and there must be politicians, and that is why
Gladstone is one and I another.

Our good old Governor and his dear wife left
us last February amid the tears of the whole popula-
tion ; we shall never see their like again. We have
Mr. Robert Duff and his wife as our new Vice-Regal
representatives. I hope I shall like them. Lady
Duff promises well, but they are not the Jerseys, and
I am strong on my old loves.

Win you kindly remember me to the members
of your family whom I had the pleasure to meet,

236 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

and will you permit me to kiss your hand at th
distance of 16,000 miles, in veneration and respect.-
Yours ever most sincerely,

George R. Dibbs

Some time after his return to Australia, S:
George Dibbs begged me through a mutual frien
to let him send an Australian painter, then i
England, to paint my portrait, which Sir Georg
said he desired to have as a souvenir of the pleasar
intimacy which had existed between us during hi
English visit. I am a very bad subject for artisi
to depict, and though I think the painter wa
clever enough, the results of his efforts culminate
in what I could not help telling Sir George wa
a monstrosity almost calculated to break the bond
of friendship which bound us across the seas.

VIII

Some clever Victorians — Thackeray — The first I^rd Lytton —
His son — Letters — Muscovite Russia — Lady Dorchester — Lord
Lovelace — Anecdotes — Matthew Arnold — Renan's quotation —
Ouida — Her letters — Recollections of plays and players— -La Grande
Duchesse — ^Mario^-A forgetful composer — A graceful tribute to the
memory of Madame Sontag.

I SUPPOSE that there is no one ahve now who
remembers so many of the clever people of
the Victorian Era as I do. A number I knew well,
but with others — amongst them Tennyson and
Thackeray — I had only a slight acquaintance.
Thackeray I used to see at various social functions,
and the memory of a coincidence is with me yet.

At a certain dinner where the great novelist was
one of the guests, I met also his school companion,
Mr. Venables, who, whilst at the Charter House,
had, in a fight, broken the great novelist's nose.
The latter, from a social point of view, I may add,
was nothing like as brilliant as Charles Lever,
whose overflowing spirits enlivened every one with
whom he was brought into contact.

In connection with Thackeray and Dickens,
I believe the fact of the former having, after Sey-
mour's death, offered to contribute some sketches
for Pickwick, has passed unnoticed. The offer was
rejected.

238 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Hepworth Dixon I knew pretty well. His was
a very buoyant nature. I remember being very
much surprised at meeting him at a dinner given
by the first Lord Lytton, who, I should have thought,
would have had very little in common with the
author of Spiritual Wives. I told my host this,
to which* he replied, " All the editors have been
attacking me — Hepworth Dixon didn't — ^that's why
he is here."

The first Lord Lytton was a great friend of
my brother's, and I used often to go and stay with
him at Knebworth — I believe that, except myself,
but one other of his guests in those days still
survives.

As is well known, there were very serious differ-
ences between this hterary peer and his wife, who,
like her husband, wrote novels, the vUlains of which
were generally pictured in a way to be identified
with him.

In the World and His Wife, for instance, Lord
Lytton figures as Lord Portargis, a man with "a
countenance in which the black sea of hypocrisy
is bounded by the black mountains of vice." His
teeth are " a mouthful of man-traps." He is made
up of " smaU vices and great talents " ; he is " a
manufacturer of popularity." In another place,
with reference to a character clearly intended for
Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton as he was then, " the
study was not a pleasing one, unless an artist
had been there gleaning illustrations for Faust,
and wanting a model Mephistopheles ; for, added
to his hooked nose, the sensual mouth, the arched

LORD LYTTON 23^

brows, — in brief, the satyr type was all there, hard,
seared, worldly lines — an intersected map of bad
passions." In view of these very bitter attacks.
Sir Edward can scarcely be blamed for having
entertained doubts as to his wife's sanity.

The child of this unhappy marriage, the second
Lord Ly tton, became a very great friend of mine . He
was one of the most cultured and intellectual men
I ever met. His was a dehghtful and attractive
personahty, for besides being possessed of great
mental gifts, he enjoyed life to the utmost extent,
and was a thorough man of the world. He wrote
to me frequently letters which were a great
delight.

Though much of his life was of necessity passed
abroad, he loved retiring to his country home, from
which, after his return from India, he wrote me the
following delightful letter —

Knebworth, Stevenage
2(^th March 1882
Dear Lady Dorothy, — Imagine the sensa-
tions of a hermit " far in a wild, remote from
public view," when an Angel unexpectedly flies
into his ceU, hangs up her rose-coloured wings on
the waU of it, sits down sweetly amongst his sombre
missals and relics, and begins to give him, with the
most charming comments, the last news of the
haute volee in Heaven. If you can imagine that
Hermit's sensations, I need not describe mine on
receipt of your last letter. But you are indeed
super-celestially angelic to remember such an eremite

240 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

as I am now become. I cannot say that I have fled
from town, in order not to

Bear about the mockery of woe

To midnight dances and the public show,

for I have no real woe to bear about, and the
mocker5f would be if I pretended that my present
sohtude is a sorrowful one. But the circumstance
which has put a black rim round this paper, whilst
excusing and dictating temporary withdrawal from
social and public engagements, has left me no
excuse for any longer postponing the fulfilment of
a long-deferred filial duty to the dearest friend
I ever had. My dear father, when I lost him, left
me all his literary and political papers, with the
request that I would use them as materials for a
biography of him, not to be written by any hand
but mine. My absence in India, and other cir-
cumstances, rendered impossible the earher com-
mencement of this long meditated task, but I feel
that continued delay would now be that worst of
sins for which the sinner does not forgive himself ;
and I am fretted by the thought that I may die
before any considerable portion of it is completed.
Life is so uncertain. My stock of energy and
industry was never large, and I have lost much of
it in India. And this biographical undertaking
requires a long preliminary collection and selection
of scattered materials. At present I am groping
my way, by clues which are but few and faint,
through an immense labyrinth of undated letters
and hterary remains. For the last fortnight I have

MATRIMONY 241

been living amongst ghosts in the land of the dead ;
and your delightful letter is like a fresh breeze from
the land of the living, — the earthly-living. For
though you are angelic, your news is decidedly
terrestial. In Heaven, I believe, there is no marry-
ing or giving in marriage ; and perhaps that will
be one of the heavenUest things about Heaven.
Obviously, however, the vast majority of the
Heavenly Host must have been married here below,
where matrimony has perhaps been divinely insti-
tuted as a sort of Competitive Examination for
admission to that Noble Army of Martyrs, who
doubtless constitute the crack Corps of the Celestial
Empire — with brevet rank, and the advantageous
position of Widows and Widowers ready-made. I
find that all the ladies, young and old, of
my " domestic circle " at Knebworth (from my
mother-in-law to my eldest daughter), are of
opinion that the Duke of Westminster is too old
for his bride. That is not my opinion, however.
Freedom of Contract is the safeguard of our liber-
ties ; and a man is never too old, nor a woman too
young, to abuse it. I own it is to me incompre-
hensible that a man should commit matrimony
twice ; and I admire the strength of- that moral
constitution which at the age of fifty-five can
digest new Wedding Cake. But I don't see why
this juvenile viand should be less unwholesome
when shared with " a person of suitable age."
I wonder whether you met amongst your legal
adorers at Mrs. Jeune's, my friend, and hers,
Fitzjames Stephen. He is a rare combination of
i6

242 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

intellectual, moral and physical magnitude, with
large mind, a large body, and a large heart, on whi
I fancy Mrs. Jeune has made a little inroad,
can't say how vexed I feel to have missed t
chance of meeting you at Strathfield Saye. I f(
quite sure, when the Duke so kindly asked us thei
that we 'should be your fellow-guests, and tl
increased the regret I felt at my inability to acce
his most attractive invitation. I was also loo
ing forward with great interest and pleasure to
better acquaintance with the Duke himself,
have rarely talked with him or heard him talk, b
never without carrying away the impression th
he is one of the cleverest, and substantially wises
men I have met.

Adieu, dear Lady Dorothy. I shall certain
run up to town to see you before you go : if I a
not unavoidably kept here by a man I am expec
ing to-morrow with sundry references he has bet
collecting for me in connection with my presei
employment. — Ever sincerely yours,

Lytton

Lord Lytton wrote to me frequently whe
Ambassador in Paris, and from him I used •
hear much news which never reached the paper
On one occasion, for instance, a well-know
member of the so-called " Smart Set " got ini
a great scrape. The French police having seize
her chattels for debt, she lost her head, and aimf
a revolver at them. Arrest followed, and si
was very nearly thrown into prison. Eventuall;

AN ATTRACTIVE BRIDE 243

iwing to a letter being sent to the Prefet de Police,
issuring him that the lady was not — as he sup-
)osed — a cocotte, and with the assistance of a
lever lawyer, she got off with nothing worse than
L bad fright.

In 1888, delighted with the charming American
jride of Mr. Chamberlain, he expressed his pleasure
IS follows —

Paris, 6th December 1888

My Dear Lady Dorothy, — Our letters must
lave crossed, and I had the best of the exchange,
tor yours was, as usual, full of interesting matter.

Chamberlain and his bride, who have passed
through Paris on their way to the Riviera, lunched
at the Embassy yesterday. The future Radical
Prime Minister was in excellent feather, and very
pleasant and interesting. The new Mrs. Chamber-
lain is really charming, very young, very pretty,
very ladylike, and no American accent or idiom.
Lord Sackville is here with his daughters, and does
not seem much afflicted by his banishment from
Washington.

Lord Lytton was not, I think, a very en-
thusiastic admirer of American institutions or
American literature. In an interesting letter, pub-
lished by his clever daughter Lady Betty Balfour
some years ago, whilst admitting that Hawthorne's
genius had such a fascination for him that he found
it difficult to speak of his works critically, he de-
clares that American humorists appeared to him

244 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

to represent the most thoroughly national origi
departments of American literature. Walt Wl
man seemed to him, he said, an impudent blat
impostor deserving of no serious considerati
Mark Twain he found antipathetic, but Arten
Ward ai^d Bret Harte gave him pleasure.

Lord Lytton was much interested in the sen
tional trial about the Parnell Letters. Referr
to this case he wrote to me —

I can't think what the Times has to ga
beyond a heavy bill, by spreading out its case
such length and in such detail, over ground wh
the public already knows by heart, and ca
nothing about. If it can prove its charge on 1
Parnell letters, it will smash Parnell, and, if it ii
to do this, it will have done no good to itself
any one else. I hear that the Parnellites will |
a Mr. Pigott into the witness-box to swear tl
he forged the Parnell letters, and produce i
drafts of them. But that the Counsel for 1
Times are aware of this, and not at all afraid
Pigott's evidence.

' Matters turned out according to this predictic
except that Pigott's confession and dramatic e
furnished a totedly unexpected denouement.

On the 27th February 1889 Lord Ljrtton wrc
to me —

I am in despair at the collapse of the Tin
case on the evidence of that scoimdrel Pigo
for whose arrest I have this afternoon been appl

RECONCILIATIONS 245

ing to the French Government. How could the
Times have been such a fool as to lean such a
heavy stake on such a rotten reed ? The im-
pression made by this scandal on the popular
mind wUl, I fear, do infinite harm to us Unionists,
whom it covers with confusion.

A warm admirer of Lord Salisbury, Lord Lytton
passed some time close to the former's abode on
the other side of the Channel at Dieppe, a retreat
from which I heard from him as follows —

Hotel Royal, Dieppe

2Sih August 1889
My Dear Delightful Lady Dorothy, —
Ten thousand thanks for your enchanting letter
from that hygienic guinguette ! It finds me in
a much duller locality, which, however, not having
ever been here before, I like. For the air is full
of ozone, and the place, tho' quiet, is cheerful.
Lady Salisbury, surrounded by a large Family
Group, is close by the Chalet Cecil, where they
are expecting my Chief next week. He is only
lingering now to put up the parliamentary shutters.
She tells me, however, that he was so disgusted
it the mismanagement of the Tithes Bill by his
lieutenants in the Commons that he would have
resigned the other day if the Queen had let him.
Dn the other hand, we are all in high spirits about
:he signal success of the German Emperor's visit
;o England. Everybody was reconciled to every-
)ody — there was shaking of hands aU round —

246 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

and on his return to Berlin the Kaiser telegraph
to his mother, " Hurrah for Old England ! " Tl
is a good job — entirely due to my Chiefs admiral
diplomacy — for the occasion was a critical or
and had the visit gone wrong it might have hi
many anxious consequences. I find the Chal
Cecil much excited about the Maybrick case
and warm partisans of the lady. Poor, de
woman, I am quite convinced she poison
her husband, and equally convinced that
deserved it^most husbands do) ; but I a
nevertheless very glad she is not to be hange
though, were I in her case, I think I shd. prei
hanging to Penal Servitude for life. Alexanc
Dumas and Family are also living near here
their chalet at Puys, and I see a good deal
them. He is finishing a new Play for the Franga
At the other end of the cliff, in another charmi
chalet, dwells Madame de Greffulhe — an acco:
plished, pretty little lady Ae la haute, and in t
town itself we have quite a constellation of artis
stars — famous theatrical ladies, rising painte
and brilliant writers, including Halevy. Ja
Hading acted here the other night very bad!
and the great Sarah, having embalmed 1
Damala, and restored him to his native land,
coming here next week in her widow's weeds-
act Francillon and Fedora. . . .

Boidanger is generally thought to be smashi
and your friend Gallifet is proportionately elate
for he was thirsting for the blood of the Bn
General. The weather here, alas! is dull — a

OLD AGE 247

so am I. — " So no more at present " from your
ever affect., Lytton

Lord Lytton deplored the approach of old age,
which, alas ! he never reached.

" Oh dear ! " he wrote me. " Why do we
grow old ? It would be so much nicer to grow
younger, and die at last in the arms of a wet-
nurse on the bosom of innocence. Apropos of the
bosom of innocence, Dufferin writes me that the
ladies at Rome consult him as to how much of that
commodity they shall show at the Court Balls,
and he gives them very good advice in accord-
ance with the quality of what they have to show ;
which reminds me of a motto I heard of the other
day for that portion of a lady's costume which

Mrs. is said to dispense with when she goes out

to dinner. Here it is — ' Je soutiens les faibles, com-
prime les forts, et ramene les egares."

Lord Dufferin was also a correspondent of mine,
and wrote me many pleasant letters. Most of these,
however, I gave in a former volume of remini-
scences.

Lord Dufferin was a man possessed of the
most charming and courtly manner. His person-
ality was essentially distinguished and intellectual,
while in private life he was full of humour. When
some quarter of a century ago a certain London
evening paper had undertaken to rouse the British
public to one of those violent outbursts of out-

248 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

raged morality to which it is prone, Lord Dufferin
was Viceroy of India, and wrote to me —

I am told that the Pall Mall Gazette is sending
out a representative to this country in order to
examine into the question of Anglo-Indian morality,
so I hope our grass widows will set their houses in
order before his arrival.

The morahsing mission in question was not
undertaken, and probably the whole story was a
canard. There was, however, an idea of some
such inquisition being set on foot in countries
nearer home than India, and a zealous, though
apparently somewhat impecunious, individual
actually volunteered to qualify as an investigator,
provided sufficient funds were furnished for him to
play the part of a man of pleasure.

At the time of the coronation of the late Czar of
Russia, I had several interesting correspondents in
Moscow, one of whom, a very distinguished and clever
man, sent me the following, which is of interest as
showing the state of affairs which then prevailed —

The Kremlin, Moscow
2$th May 1883
A feeling of positive despair seems to come
over me when I sit down to write a letter which I
know should contain something of an interesting
nature, or some little story epigrammaticaUy told.
I am aware that living here in an atmosphere of
conspiracy, with a strong dynamite smeU to be
sniffed at every street corner, one cannot say there

MUSCOVITE RUSSIA 249

s no material to stuff a letter with ; yet I have no
lotion of how to cover even this sheet of notepaper
50 as not to incur your denunciation as either a bore
3r a dunce. Although I live in what I may term
the centre of Muscovite Russia, mixing hourly
ivith its big people — they have smaU brains and
still smaller hearts — I know nothing of what is
^oing on around me. How our newspaper corre-
spondents fill their dispatches I have no idea;
however, an imaginative genius with a facile pen
at its command can do much. I asked one of
these " chaps " the other day how it was I did not
see him at the ceremony of blessing the new Czar's
standard. His answer was, " I could not get in ;
permission was positively refused me ; so I had to
pay a heavy bribe to the correspondent of a Russian
paper who was there to teU me all about it, and
from his description I telegraphed several columns
for my paper." You would be delighted with the
old churches here — such barbaric profusion of gold,
silver, and precious stones. I was to have been
taken round some curiosity shops yesterday by
Prince Bariatenski — a humble effort to write his
name phonetically — but, alas! although he was
appointed to take me about, the Czar saw him
riding in a saddle which was not in accordance with
their dress regulations the day of the State entry
into Moscow, and he has been in arrest ever since.
Considering that he is one of the Emperor's own
Aide de Camps, this is a rather curious illustration
of court life here. Bariatenski is a collector him-
self, and he tells me that in ordinary times one

250 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

can pick up curious enamels here, but at tl
present moment, he says, to buy anything would 1
ridiculous, as ten times the value is asked for ever
thing. I wish you were here to trot round t]
museums with me and explain to me what was be
worth admiring. Sunday is to be the grai
coronation day. We hear that no attempt w
be made to disturb the proceeding, as it is intend
to wait until aU this fuss is over. However, there
no disgmsing the fact that the officials who a
best acquainted with the state of things among
the people are extremely anxious.

Though so many of my clever friends ha^
passed away, some happily still remain, and at tl
head of these I must place Lady Dorchester, f
whose high intellectual attainments I have tl
very greatest admiration ever since I first kne
her, which I might say is almost as long as I ha^
known myself. The daughter of John Cam Ho
house, the friend of Byron, she knows much abo
the poet which has never appeared in print,
will be remembered that in the extracts from h
father's diary, ably edited by herself, which recent
appeared, the references to Lord Byron threw i
new light upon the life of the author of Chil
Harold. I believe she possesses a number of Lo
Byron's letters to her father, but she has nev
chosen to make public much about the poet which h
father must have known, and which, no doubt, for ve
sufficient reasons, she deems best kept unreveale

At Lady Dorchester's I used to meet the la

LORD LOVELACE 251

Lord Lovelace, the grandson of Byron, and son of
the poet's daughter Ada, " sole daughter of my
house and heart." Lord Lovelace was a clever
man, and though there was nothing Byronic about
his appearance, there was much that was Byronic
about his mind — witness the publication of Astarte,
which appeared in 1905. Printed by the Chiswick
Press practically for private circulation, very few
copies were sold at aU, the author's sanction hav-
ing to be procured before any such purchase. A
number, however, were given away by Lord Love-
lace to his friends, amongst whom I was flattered to
be included. Besides throwing a certain amount
of new light upon his poet grandfather's character,
this book had been written to form a complete
and effective vindication of Lord Lovelace's
mother, whose memory he worshipped with an
almost passionate adoration.

When sending me this book on December 31st,
1905, Lord Lovelace wrote —

The book is as an old friend writes — one to
read with a heartache, and the events recorded
have been a sorrowful inheritance for more than
one generation. The tragic secret — or half-secret —
was aU the more painful, for that sort of half-
mystery which combined the evils of a secret with
those of revelation. I always felt the facts should
have been made known by those who could have
done so at least forty years ago. The du1;y was
clear to me, but I could not Uke having to under-
take it myself. However, I am tharjkful that it has

252 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

been executed, and I hope as effectually as was
possible.

Lady Lovelace, the mother of the late peer,
was, I have heard said, somewhat poetical in her
appearancf. I do not exactly know what such
a description may have meant, but suppose there
was something of Bryon's romantic air about her.
Romantic or not, rumour used to declare that it was
her boast never to have read any of her f ather'sworks.

The late Lord Lovelace, while a most charming
and clever man, wasundoubtedly somewhat eccentric,
though his eccentricity never took the same whim-
sical form which it had assumed in his grandfather,
the poet, who sometimes behaved in such an extra-
ordinary mannner

Lord Bjnron, when he first dined with Mr.
Rogers, the banker-poet, to whose breakfasts I
have been when a girl, was asked if he would take
soup. " No ; he never took soup." Would he
take some fish ? " No ; he never took fish."
Presently he was asked if he would eat some mutton.
" No ; he never ate mutton." Mr. Rogers then
asked him if he would take a glassof wine. " No ;
he never tasted wine." It was then necessary to
inquire what he did eat and drink ; and the
answer was, " Nothing but hard biscuits and soda-
water." Unfortunately neither hard biscuits nor
soda-water were at hand ; and he dined upon
potatoes bruised down on his plate, and drenched
with vinegar. Some days after, meeting Hobhouse,
Rogers said to him, " How long will Lord Byron

MATTHEW ARNOLD 253

persevere in his present diet ? " He replied,
" Just as long as you continue to notice it."
Rogers subsequently ascertained that Byron, after
leaving his house, had gone to a club in St. James'
Street, and eaten a hearty meat-supper.

Of late years I have still kept up as far as
possible my connection with literary people — alas !
most of the Victorian writers are now gone. Then
Mr. Matthew Arnold used to be a constant guest of
mine at Sunday luncheons. He had a delightful
style, which manifested itself even in the shortest
notes, as the following reply to an invitation shows —

CoBHAM, Surrey
April iSth

My Dear Lady Dorothy, — Wednesday is
my day down here next week ; and even to lunch
with you I must not desert the first swallows and
the first nightingale.

How sad that the rulers of the religious world
should not better distinguish between their friends
and their enemies !

I am going once more to America for a few
months, to see where my daughter has established
herself in New York : then I hope to creep back
into my cottage here to pass the remainder of my
days. — Most truly yours,

Matthew Arnold

Winter in the country he loved, as it was, he
said, the season when the firs and the hoUies and
the woods were pleasantest . At that season he never
ran up to town.

254 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Mr. Matthew Arnold's daughter. Lady Sandhurst
I am glad to say, I still see sometimes. She is ;
delightful and clever woman, who has inheritec
much of her father's cultured intellect.

Speaking of replies to invitations, the foUowinj
from Mr. Froude is characteristic —

5 Onslow Gardens, S.W.
March 3rd
My Dear Lady Dorothy, — You are a grea
deal too good to me. It will be a very evil geniu
indeed which will prevent me from lunching wit!
yoii on the nth.

I see the Bishops are crying out against thes
innocent Sunday entertainments. Perhaps the;
have had something to do with it. I never like(
that venerable order, but I will be with you ii
spite of them. — Yours faithfully,

J. A. Froude

When, some years ago, I published a first volum
of Reminiscences, I mentioned that the late M
Renan wrote in my birthday book —

"Vouloir ce que Dieu veut est la seule scienc
qui nous met en repos."

I had no idea from whence this quotation came
indeed, I must confess that I rather thought tha
M. Renan himself had written it. This, howevei
was not the case.

Some time after the publication of the boo
I received the following letter, together with th
poem which is appended —

KENAN'S QUOTATION 255

January x6th, '07
Dear Madam^ — ^After the great enjoyment
I have found in reading your Reminiscences, I
venture to ask you to accept my thanks. Your
kind, vivid, and happy picture of early, mid; and
iate Victorian society makes it difficult to think
that everything modern is an improvement on
what it supersedes.

I venture to send you a copy of the poem of
which M. Renan quoted the last two lines. It has
very often pleased and soothed me,

CONSOLATION A M. DU PERKIER

La douleur du Perrier sera doac 6ternelle I

Et les tristes discours
Que et met en I'esprit ramiti6 patemelle

L'augmenteront toujours I

Le malheur de la fiUe au tombeau descendue.

Par un commun trepas,
Est-ce quelque dedale ou ta raison perdue,

Ne se retrouve pas ?

Je sais de quels appas son enfance dtait pleine ;

Et n'ai pas entrepris,
Injurieux ami, de soulager ta peine

Avecque son mepris.

Mais elle 6tait du monde oil les plus beUes choses

Ont le pire destin :
Et rose, elle a vecU ee que vivent les roses,

L'espace d'un matin.

La mort a des rigueurs a nuUe autre pareilles ;

On a beau la prier.
La crueUe qu'eUe est se bouche les oreilles,

Et nous laisse crier.

256 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Le pauvre en sa cabane, oil le chaume le couvre.

Est sujet k ses lois ;
Et la garde qui veille aux barrieres du Louvre,

N'en defend point nos rois.

De murmurer centre elle, et perdre patience,

II est mal a propos :
Vouloir ce que Dieu veui, est la seule science
Qui "nous met en repos.

F. De Malherbe
(1SSS-1628)

At one time I used to see a good deal of Ouic
whose novels were once so enormously populj
In latter days, however, her vogue as a writ
rather ceased, and, living in retirement in Ita]
little Was heard of her till the papers announc
that the authoress of Under Two Flags and oth
famous novels had died in comparative poverty,

At heart Ouida was a pessimist, especial
concerning the Victorian Era. On the occasi
of the Jubilee in 1887 she sent me a card on whi
were the following lines, entitled " Jubilee Epitapl

Full half a century of measures small.
Weak wits, weak words, weak wars, and that is all.

Ouida

Her severe judgment of a period remarkal
for many great and many splendid achievemei
can have merely been prompted by feelings
depression which, in this instance, certai]
obscured her judgment. Whatever may be s:
against the nineteenth century, there is at least
denying that it was the Golden Age of Scien
What other period of the world's history e
produced such men as Darwin, Huxley, Tynd

A PROGRESSIVE AGE 257

Lord Kelvin, to mention only a very few out of a
host of great scientists and thinkers ?

Within the last half-century surgery has made
immense progress, and many operations which were
formerly with good cause regarded as being highly
dangerous are now almost devoid of risk. The
discovery of the immense importance of antiseptic
precautions, the perfection of surgical instruments,
and the general progress of knowledge have brought
this about. Stone, once a much-dreaded scourge,
is now scarcely regarded as a dangerous ailment,
but cancer, alas ! obtains little but a temporary
alleviation of its worst features, and then only from
an early application of the surgeon's knife.

Medicine, on the other hand, unUke surgery, has
not made any gigantic strides, and indeed it would,
as was once rather bitterly said, appear that in
this instance no one can be certain of any definite
result following its cause tiU the doctor's brougham
precedes his patient's body to the grave.

From time to time I wrote to Ouida, and I like
to think that my letters were appreciated, as showing
that some in England stiU remembered her brilliant
talents. Her answers were written in a strain of
depression —

Dear Lady Dorothy, — If I had dreamed you
cared to hear of me, I should have written to you
long since. I often think of you, and of your
charming breakfasts, and I infinitely regret that
I did not see Lord Orford and the Venetian
dress..
17

258 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

The Poltimores are here, but I have not se(
them. I think the Duke of Norfolk is coming
me this month, and Mr. Mallock in March. T]
Windsors have taken a villa here, and come in
fortnight.

There has been snow, and if you had broug]
a bottle 'of Lourdes water here last month, yc
would certainly have had it cracked again. Yoi
H.R.H. and I never achieved our meetings. Pe
haps if you see Wyndham you will teU him I ha''
not forgotten his wish for a comedy from me. Ha''
you heard the strange story attached to my u:
published novel ? It was finished and paid for :
1886, and should have been published when I wi
in London, but the publishers don't bring it 01
until 1889, and I hear that when 1889 comes tht
wiU make some excuse not to bring it out at a
having received a large sum of money to suppre
it altogether. It is a very harmless novel, vei
Conservative, and containing an eulogy of Loi
Salisbury. But this is what I hear. Tell me
any tale of the sort reaches you.

Have you a photo you could give me ?
should value it so.

I have no news of the Duchess Dorothy.

With affectionate regards to Miss NevOl. — Ev
sincerely yours, Ouida

1.2th January 1888

The loss of popularity which Ouida suffered i
a writer no doubt arose from the changes whi(
modern methods of life and thought had intr

OUIDA 259

iuced into English life. Her heroes no longer
ippealed to a public less fond of romance than a
previous generation.

The success of novels depends upon many in-
definable qualities and even outside events. Illus-
trating this, a story used to be told about Lorna
Doone, Mr. Blackmore's famous book, which may
or may not be founded upon fact. Lorna Doone
was published in i86g, and it is said that the novel
did not at the time attract general attention. A
httle over a year later it was officially announced
that the Queen had sanctioned the marriage of the
Princess Louise to Lord Lome. The public took
it into its head that Lorna Doone was somehow
connected with Lord Lome, and the book at once
bounded into popularity.

When the motor-car began to threaten horse-
drawn carriages, Ouida was intensely indignant,
and wrote me that she dreaded automobiles and
the crush of the hideous motor-omnibuses. In
particular was she incensed with the King of
Italy for having sold three-quarters (as she said)
of his horses to buy motor-cars, a proceeding which
she denounced as being inconsistent with the
dignity of Royalty.

The last letter of all which this clever woman
sent me was a very sad one. She was then highly
indignant with the English Press.

Dear Lady Dorothy, — I cannot tell you
what joy it gives me to receive your letter, and
that I still hold a place in your memory is an

26o UNDER FIVE REIGNS

honour indeed, filled as that memory is by su
brilliant crowds, drawn from all which is best a
most illustrious in your time. I do think it
so very good of you to have remembered n
Often, indeed, do I wish to see you again, and it
the want* of means, not of will, which has kept i
away from England and aU the many dear frien
it holds for me. What an extraordinary thi

that publication by the of the portrait

the old peasant as me ! — ^because they could n
see me, they gave an old woman on a neighbouri
farm five francs to sit to them, and actually pu
lished her photo as mine. The Italian papf
meanwhile got a photo of my mother (who died
'94) and issued it as a recent one of me ! The
are the delights of having a public name ! I thii
no one would ever leave the shelter of private li
if they but knew what it meant to do so. But ^
know everything too late. When will you give
more memoirs ? I sigh when I think of all y<
must know and all you cannot tell !

Hoping that I may have some day the prh
lege and pleasure of meeting you. — I am, yo
sincere admirer, OuiDA

September 1.2th

Ouida, as is well known, was devoted to anima
I think that most literary men and women have kii
hearts. I remember how kind George August
Sala was about a charitable object in which I w
interested. He took great trouble for me once
connection with a charity. He wrote to me —

G. A. S. 261

46 Mecklenburgh Square, W.C.
Monday, Seventeenth Aug., 1886
Dear Lady Dorothy Nevill, — I am not an
Angel— not even an ange dichu — and I did not send
you any money for your protigee. But I told Mrs.
Jeune, whom I met at HoUy Lodge recently, that
I intended to ask you to accept a mite towards an
excellent object. Eccolo qua. I am ill, or I would
go out and see people and beg some more money
for you ; but I am sure that Labouchere, who,
apart from his politics (in which he does not
believe), has a heart of gold, will do his best for
you, and I am, very much yotir Ladyship's humble
servant,

G. A. Sala

Mr. Sala, who was also an artist, wrote the most
beautiful little hand possible, and I used to feel
quite ashamed of my own handwriting, which he
must have heartily despised.

Handwriting has never been my strong point.
I remember writing to a friend of mine whilst
travelling by train, and sending apologies for the
scrawl. In reply, he declared that I ought always
to write in a railway carriage, for the writing was
more legible, and he was complimentary enough to
add — ^the substance more electric.

During my life I have known and liked many
people belonging to the theatrical profession, and
even long before the days when absurd prejudices
against it still existed. How strong this was may be
judged when it is realised that the son of a great friend

262 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

of mine, Mr. Wigan the actor, actually had to be
withdrawn from a Brighton school, owing to the
distaste of parents to their children associating
with an actor's son. Queen Victoria, it was known,
highly disapproved of this monstrous persecution,
and sent» a kindly and sympathetic letter to my
friend.

Notwithstanding the unfair way in which the
stage was regarded by a considerable portion of
England, several actresses contracted aristocratic
marriages, one indeed made a Royal one.
This was Miss Louisa Fairbrother, who captured
the heart and hand of the late Duke of Cam-
bridge.

Miss Fairbrother acted at Covent Garden
Theatre from 1830 to 1843, with a break of two
years (1835 to 1837) when she was at Drury Lane.
Miss Fairbrother was not perhaps one of those
brilliant constellations of the theatrical firmament
the announcement of whose appearance ensures
crowded houses, but possessed a graceful and
winning personality, which lingers pleasantly in
the recollection. I believe she also appeared at the
Lyceum Theatre when it was managed by the
Keeleys, and when Mr. Alfred Wigan and Mr.
Samuel Emery were members of the company.
Her retirement from the stage took place in 1848,
and after many years of happy married Uf e with the
Duke, she died in January 1890.

The Duke never, I think, quite recovered from
the blow of his wife's death. A year later he
wrote me —

THE BANCROFTS 263

Gloucester House, Park Lane, W.
Wednesday

My Dear Lady Dorothy, — May every blessing
attend you even at this terrible period as you call it.
To me the time is a most painful one, for my
thoughts are entirely absorbed by the events of this
time last year, which you can well imagine cause
very sad reflections and give me so much sorrow
and grief. Friday next, 28th, was the sad day which
ended my happiness in this world. I shall not fail
to come and see you with pleasure after these sad
days are over, and when I can make myself a little
more agreeable, I hope, than I possibly could at
present. Your wish has been so far carried out,
that I have had a re-nomination made to the
Foundling Hospital in favour of the poor child
Lady B. Hozier brought to your notice. What
weather, mild certainly, for the time of year, but
also extremely depressing.

The political horizon appears to me also to be
an3rthing but cheerful or bright. — I remain, dear
Lady Dorothy, yours very sincerely,

George

One of the most interesting, though rather
sorrowful, theatrical performances I ever attended
was that given at the Haymarket on 20th July
1885, when my friends Mr. and Mrs. Bancroft,
as they then were, retired from management.
The programme and the counterfoil of my stall
ticket are amongst my treasures, in a book of which
one of the chief ornaments is a charming little

264 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

photogravure of Lady Bancroft, who wrote on it-
" When I was first a manager." Sir Squire ani
Lady Bancroft, though they do not now figur
on the stage, still occupy a very prominent plac
as public favourites, being ever ready to do a
they can ,to further any good object. The sum
realised for charitable purposes by Sir Squire'
readings are^ as is well known^ quite gigantic ; i
all probability no one else except this picturesqu
and sympathetic personality could ever hav
obtained anything like them.

The death of Sir Henry Irving came as
great blow to me. What a sympathetic, generous
hearted man he was, and how devoted to ou
mutual friend Mr. Toole. He was especiall;
pleased, I remember, with a picture of the lattei
concerning which he wrote to me —

15A Grafton Street, Bond Street, W.
4th March 1901

Dear Lady Dorothy, — May I hope to hav
the privilege one evening next week of welcomin
you and your friends at the Lyceum ? It wi
be a real dehght to do so.

I want particularly to show you a pictur
of my friend Toole by John Collier, and I thin
you will say that it displays a " striking and pn
possessing physiognomy," as I once heard Lor
Beaconsfield describe the face of another frien
of mine.

Any night next week would be equally cor
venient to me — excepting perhaps Wednesday-

THE OLD ADELPHI 265

for which I have given a half sort of a promise. —
Believe me to be, my dear Lady Dorothy, most
faithfully yours, H. Irving

Both as an actor and in private life I was very
fond of Mr. Toole, who was, I think, about the
last of the old school in his own particular Une.
Mr. Toole had acted with an old favourite of the
public, whom I still remember — Paul Bedford,
who for many years was intimately connected
with the screaming farces of the Adelphi. Alas !
his latter years were unfortunate, and in the
winter of his hfe he was reduced to making a
nightly appearance before the audience of Weston's
music-hall. Paul Bedford was perhaps not a
very great comedian, but there was something
hearty and genial about him, and he was the idol
of his own particular public.

The old Adelphi was pulled down in 1858.
Part of the excitement in going to this theatre of
other days was that you stood a fair chance of
being burnt to death when the inevitable barn
took fire in the melodrama.

The old theatre, the favourite haunt of Metro-
politan playgoers, was finally closed on Wednesday,
22nd May 1858, preparatory to the erection of a
larger and more commodious building. Originally
called the " Sanspareil," and built by a colourman
of the name of Scott, whose daughter had a taste
for melodramatic acting, and a fondness for the
tight-rope, the Adelphi was first known under
that name when it became the property of Messrs.

266 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Rodwell, by whom, in the year 1835, it was let
to Messrs. Terry and Frederic Yates. On Mr.
Terry's secession, Mr. Yates was joined in partner-
ship by Mr. Charles Matthews, the elder, at whose
death Mr. and Mrs. Yates went to Drury Lane,
leaving the management of the Adelphi to Charles
Matthews, by whom, after much loss, it was
eventually sub-let to a " gentleman connected
with the turf," a Mr. Bond. At this time it was
rapidly losing its prestige. Mr. Yates, however,
returned, and took upon himself the direction of
affairs ; and then it was that he gathered round
him a company, and produced pieces which have
never been equalled in their peculiar line. Mr.
and Mrs. Yates, Mrs. Keeley, Mrs. Fitzwilliam,
Messrs. John Reeve, Buckstone, O. Smith, Wilkin-
son, and others, appeared in melodrama, some of
which, such as Victor ine, The Wreck Ashore,
Isabella, The Rake and His Pupil, Henrietta, and
the like, were among the very best of their class.
On the death of Mr. John Reeve, Mr. Wright and
Mr. Paul Bedford joined the company. About
this time a dramatised version of Mr. Ainsworth's
Jack Sheppard was produced, and ran for upwards
of one hundred nights ; and renderings of The Old
Curiosity Shop, with Mr. Yates as Quilp and Mr.
Wright as Dick Swiveller, and of Nicholas Nickleby,
with Mrs. Keeley as Smike. After some further
vicissitudes the management of the theatre was
assumed by Mr. Webster, to whose benefit the last
night in the old house was very properly devoted,
on which occasion, in addition to his own company,

THE RIGHTFUL HEIR 267

many old favourites appeared. Mr. T. P. Cooke
threw his seventy-three years to the winds, and
danced his hornpipe, and shivered his timbers
in Black Eyed Susan with youthful vigour. Mr.
Buckstone appeared in the same piece. Mr. and
Mrs. Keeley played The Blessed Baby, and Miss
Woolgar (Mrs. A. Mellon) played her favourite
character of Mephistopheles.

In former days not very much attention was
paid to accuracy on the English stage.

When The Rightful Heir, by Lord Lytton,
was produced at the Lyceum in 1868, considerable
amusement was excited because Lady MonterviUe,
played by an admirable young actress, Mrs. Her-
mann Vezin, was supposed to be the mother of
two grown-up, about middle-aged, sons.

Mrs. Vezin had made little effort to obscure
her own youthful and attractive personahty, for
which reason a critic declared that " it was no
wonder that she had an aversion to her first-born —
an individual to whom she had given birth fourteen
years before she was born herself, whilst it was
but natural that she should regard with maternal
tenderness the youth she brought into the world at
a time she was herself entering her second year."

Another actress who, on the other hand, was
always making herself out to be very young, being
engaged in a lawsuit, said she was nineteen. Much
laughter ensued when her son, entering the witness-
box, replied in answer. to the usual questions, "six
months older than mother."

At Christmas Mr. George Conquest drew crowds

268 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

to the Grecian theatre. As a giant, a dwarf, or 5
monkey, his was a most original and daring repre
sentation. This theatre was celebrated as a nurserj
for talent. Robson came from the Grecian, so die
Miss Carlotta Leclercq, while for years all the
prettiest and most accomplished ballerinas at th(
Opera were recruited from Mrs. Conquest's pupils.

Though Drury Lane and one or two othei
West End theatres stiU keep up the tradition o;
pantomime, the gorgeous spectacles produced havf
little in common with the pantomimes of othei
days, full of rough-and-tumble fun, and culminating
in what to many was the best part of the enter-
tainment — the harlequinade.

Clowns are not what they were. The day oj
the clown is over ; his part in modern pantomime
is small, and when he is allowed to appear at al
he is but a feeble reflex of what he once presented
He is there only in name, not in spirit. Our olc
friend has been driven from the stage, and with hin
has gone the roaring fun and glorious buffoonerj
which evoked roars of laughter in the past. Ir
exchange we are now given very elaborate scenery
and ballets composed of several hundred coryphees-
whilst the singing is more refined and classical
and the transformation scene perfectly bewildering
in its gorgeousness. The expense of producing £
modern pantomime is enormous ; yet, howevei
much we may admire, we cannot laugh. A
pantomime ought to be a perfect carnival o:
humour. To-day it has become a mere vehicle foi
what are called " spectacular effects," and consist:

THE " GRANDE DUCHESSE " 269

mainly of elaborate mise-en-scene and magnificently-
attired crowds.

There were many clever and versatile pro-
fessionals in old days.. Such a one was Mr. Howard
Paul, an American by birth, who first came into
the notice of the London public as a comic writer
in 1852, in the then popular Diogenes (which,
for a time, successfully rivalled Punch), and to
which he was attached till its close. He then
produced, in conjunction with Mr. John Leech,
who furnished the engravings, a serial work, entitled
Dashes of American Humour, which achieved con-
siderable popularity, and which was subsequently
reprinted in the United States, where it
met with prodigious success. Mr. Paul also pub-
lished the first magazine devoted exclusively to
American Uterature produced in England, and
it was in its pages that Poe's celebrated Raven,
and the Bells were first introduced to British
readers.

Mrs. Howard Paul was also a clever woman.
At the time when the Grande Duchesse created such
a sensation, she took the principal part in the
EngHsh version which was produced at the
Olympic in 1868. Mr. Kenney was responsible
for the book, which was very severely criticised.
One critic said : " We have never met with sentences
so hard to make musical ; in fact, had we only heard
Miss Matthews sing them, we should have imagined
it was impossible to bring out Offenbach on
Mr. Kenney's shoulders. Mrs. Paul convinces us
that her talents can do a great deal, even with the

270 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

English libretto : we believe she could translate
it better herself."

Hortense Schneider, who had come over to
London to give some performances, went to see the
English Duchesse de Gerolstein, whom she ap-
plauded. A well-acted part in this opera-bouffe
was Baron* Grog, played by Mr. Odell.

Before leaving London, Mdlle. Schneider gave
some performances of La Belle HSl^ne at the
St. James' Theatre, and of course made a great
success in the name part. This talented artiste
in after years quite retired from the gay world
which she had so much enlivened, and took up her
abode at Asnieres, near Paris, where she lived in
comparative seclusion.

Few of the inhabitants of that suburb reaUsed
that the plainly-dressed old lady, who appeared
the very type of a good French bourgeoise, had
been the dashing Grande Duchesse de Gerolstein —
the incarnation of unrestrained gaiety and incom-
parable singer of Offenbach's sparkling music, which
had so delighted the frivolous Parisians of the
Second Empire.

Orfie aux Enfers was also given in EngUsh
at the Ha37market Theatre. No one, however,
could in any degree do justice to the composer
or the authors, and not one of the actors had an
idea of singing the music or of creating effect out
of the materials given them. The points were
missed, and the choruses damped to such a degree,
that there was no resemblance left to the original
piece whatever. It was a woeful failure. Barht

FIVE SHILLINGS A WEEK 271

Bleu met with much the same fate at the
Olympic.

Besides the Olympic version of La Grande
Duchesse, another was given at Covent Garden;
where no one performer approached his or
her Parisian prototype. Miss Julia Matthews, the
Grand Duchess (known as the Australian Nightin-
gale), was of the music-hall type of serio-comic
singers, and had not the sentiment necessary to
sing the music. Mr. A3msley Cook was declared to
be boisterous without being droU, and Mr. Frank
Matthews somewhat inadequate. Mr. Stoyle and
Miss Augusta Thomson were the only actors who
were at aU good.

The house was disappointed, and the stalls said,
" Is this what every one has been raving about in
Paris ? " But nevertheless there were considerable
excuses to be made for the actors and actresses,
who could not be expected to come up to the
standard of the Parisian company, who, besides
much natural entrain, were well accustomed to
play into each other's hands. Who, indeed, could
ever sing " Dites-lui " like Hortense Schneider ?

Though the acting in old days was good enough
in its own way, the performers often put little feeling
or life into their work. They were generally
miserably paid. As the country manager once
said to Kean in his younger days : " Feel, my
good fellow, feel — throw life into the part — ^be
angry." " Feel," replied Kean, " be angry ! Who
can be angry and feel upon five shillings a week ! "

The British public of the past were not so

272 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

eager for novelty as is now the case. A certai
sort of piece never failed to attract them.

" Succeed ! " said a disappointed author, on tl
day after a new play had been produced, "(
course it did." The same plot, the same cha
acters, the same language, had succeeded twent
times before, and wUl as oft again. Even watcl
makers get most by making repeaters.

I think it was the same man who, on anoth(
occasion, had reason to find fault with the strengtl
or rather the want of strength, of a company pei
forming a play of his.

The manager expostulated and said, " Whj
many of them have been bred on these boards.
" Cut out of them, you mean," was the reply.

Another weU-known writer, at the first perforn
ance of a domestic drama of which he was th
author, was much concerned at the liberties take
by the actors with his dialogue. The waits b<
tween the acts, as it happened, had been extra lonj
and after the second act, the orchestra havin
played for a long time, had at last come to a stanc
stUl. A saw was heard making some necessar
repairs behind the scene. " They seem," said th
author, at last showing his annoyance,. " to be cuttin
out the third act altogether."

In the late fifties some sensation was cause
in theatrical circles by the appearance at the Ha}
market Theatre of a titled amateur. This wa
after the secession of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Mathewi
when Mr. Buckstone was at a loss how to fill the:
places. The critics, however, werp not favourabl<

SOTHERN 273

One critic declared : " He was no more of an
actor than Ben Caunt, or the Tipton Slasher —
both of whom he surpasses in bodily dimensions —
but he is a real belted knight ; and to behold so
prodigious a member of the upper classes play
in a very small farce, without the slightest his-
trionic talent, is, it must be allowed, a rare attrac-
tion ; for which reason, or reasons, the famous
amateur excites great curiosity, and brings crowds
to the theatre."

Well do I remember the days of that remarkable
actor, Sothern, of Lord Dundreary fame. No one
who saw this talented actor in his best known
creation can forget the stutter, sneeze, and inane
laughter which; together with much other buffoonery
and a most comical appearance (including the
famous Dundreary whiskers), ihoved so many
thousands to laughter.

From time to time Sothern, however, played
parts of an entirely different nature. Such a one
was that of the jeune premier in A Hero of Romance
at the Haymarket in 1868.

To a man of Sothern' s talent it was no doubt
obnoxious to think that he had by one success
condemned himself to a Ufe-long career of one
part ; that he was to be perpetually going round
and round like a horse in a null ; each season to
bring with it a Dundreary in some new surround-
ings — Dundreary married and settled ; Dun-
dreary a father ; in fact. Dundreary in every
phase of social life ad infinitum.

When, however, Sothern deviated from his own
18

274 1 ] , ]MUNDER FIVE REIGNS

particular line he was not particularly successfi
On one occasion he appeared to little advantage ai
hero of romance — in this case, it should be adde
a hero who could never be met with out of
romance. The virtues, indeed, of this parag
were so numerous and striking, his conduct was
much above reproach, he possessed so much goc
ness, and was so extremely proper and circui
spect, that to an ordinary everyday mortal 1
angelic qualities became perfectly irritating, ai
one was in doubt as to whether he should
described as an Admirable Crichton or a contem
tible " prig." The play was also too long, its s
acts tiring out the audience, who, long before t
close, sighed for their favourite in one of his usi
and congenial parts.

Few probably now remember the beautiful M
Rousbyj who created such a sensation at the c
Queen's Theatre in 1869. Her maiden name w
Dowse, and her father had been Inspector-Genei
of Hospitals. He resided for some time at Jers
(the original home of another beautiful wom£
Miss Le Breton, who became Mrs. Langtry — ^t
Jersey Lily), where his daughter married li
Wybert Rousby, director of the theatre the
Tom Taylor, it is said, first discovered Mrs. Rous
whilst on a trip to the Channel Islands, the h
Mr. Frith, who had noticed her before, havi
mentioned her extraordinary beauty. She to
London by storm as Princess Elizabeth in T(
Taylor's famous drama of 'Twixt Axe and Crou
and also played in W. G. Wills's Mary Stuart

MRS. LANGTRY 275

the Princess's Theatre, and some other plays — in
particular, Joan of Arc. Mrs. Rousby then went
for a long tour in America, where she was very
successful, and on her return to England made her
last appearance in London at the Queen's in
Madeline Morel. This beautiful woman had a sad
end, for she died of rapid consumption at Wies-
baden in April 1879.

Jersey, as I have said, gave us another actress
of incomparable beauty — Mrs. Langtry. There was
an enormous sensation when it was announced
that she was going on the stage.

Her debut, perhaps, was not the decided success
that thoughtless people expected. Acting requires
considerable study, and she had not the stage
experience necessary to carry all before her. Since
those days, however, Mrs. Langtry has made much
progress in the profession which she chose to adopt.
At the time when she first decided to take to the
boards it was said that she was to receive eighty
pounds a week from Mr. Bancroft for her histrionic
performances at the Hay market.
^; : "Within the last few years the Opera has become
almost more of a regular society function than it
ever was before. Some of the great stars of the
past, however, certainly evoked much enthusiasm,
notably Madame Adelina Patti, who is happUy
stUl alive. She was married to the Marquis de
Caiux — her first husband — on July 29th, 1868, at
the Church of the Redemptorist Fathers on Clapham
Common ; the Prince de La Tour d'Auvergne, the
then French Ambassador in London, signing the

276 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

register as witness for the bridegroom, whilst tl
Duke of Manchester of the day did so for the brid
The bridesmaids were Miss Louisa Lauer, Mi
Maria Harris, and Miss Rita Mario — a daughter ^
the celebrated singer. At the time the Marquis <
Caux was Imperial Chamberlain to Napoleon ii
and the fatter refused to permit him to contini
in office so long as the Marquise remained on tl
stage, but generously did not withdraw h
salary.

The Marquis died in 1889, and with him bro]
another Unk with the brilliant days of the Secoi
Empire. At one time he had been the " factotum
of the Tuileries, the gay leader of Paris societ
and a European social celebrity. His marriai
with AdeHna Patti was at the time considered
great mesalliance, and he was forced, in consequenc
to resign his official post at the Imperial Coui
Then came his divorce from the Diva, necessitatii
revelations of a discreditable kind. Even his be
friends were unable to countenance his heartle
behaviour towards his pretty and talented wil
Since the fall of the Empire the Marquis de Cai
had been little heard of outside Paris. As a lead
of " cotillons " his equal has hardly since been foun
FuU of energy, resource, and good-humour, he invai
ably managed to make this occasionally invidio
dance a source of enjoyment to all who took pa
in it.

The only real leader of " cotillons " we ha
ever had in England was the late Mr. August
Lumley, and he, of course, was insignificant

MARIO 277

compared to the Marquis de Caux. Mr. Harry
Higgins was also facile frinceps in this direction
in his day. Of late years I have heard of no particular
gentlemen being distinguished as leaders.

A singer of the past who created a perfect
furore was Mario, who, in PariSj evoked extra-
ordinary enthusiasm^ which he scarcely deigned to
acknowledge even when encored, never choosing
to accede to the request. An old English lady,
his admirer of fifty years' standing, whose admira-
tion was maintained by her own fading sight to
the diapason of Mario's fading beauties, was always
ensconced in her box, armed with the lorgnon she
had made to the distance at which her box was
situated from the stage, in order to take in all the
perfections of which Mario was the bearer, and
stUl cried out, to the annoyance of her neighbours,
"Oh, la bel homme!" in spite of decency and
grammar, at the end of each of his solo songs. The
box once occupied by the solitary Yankee lady of
large fortune which used to be kept hermetically
closed save when Mario was on the stage, was after-
wards occupied by two English heiresses, sisters,
who have succeeded to the occupation of their
predecessor, that of admiring and exclaiming aloud
their admiration each time a note issues from the
harmonious throat of the favourite. The American
lady was burnt so severely at Rome, whither she
had followed the incomparable tenor, that after
lingering for awhile, she died last spring, leaving
the greater part of her large fortune, in token of
her platonic love, to the idol she had worshipped

278 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

for so many years. But the bequest was refusei
by Mario, who would not even accept a testimonia
in honour of his generosity from the lady's brothers
who returned to New York with their inheritano
intact, and their honest Yankee souls full o
wondermept at Italian disinterestedness.

A curious case of a composer forgetting his owi
music was that of Auber, who, on the completioi
of his eighty-seventh year, in 1868, was fited at hi
house in Paris in the Rue St. George, where par
of the opera orchestra gave him a morning serenade
After the overture to Masaniello had been played
a march was performed, which attracted the notic
of Auber so much that he asked for the composer'
name. Great was his surprise on learning that i
was an early effusion of his own. The leader c
the orchestra had it from General MeUinet, a:
amateur, who had found the MS. in a bookstall i
the Rue Mazarin, entitled A Sonata, and signe
Auber, 1798. Written seventy years before ! Thi
had been shown to Emile Jonas, the compose)
who had arranged it as a march for thi
occasion.

Great homage was paid to many of the operati
favourites of other days. So great, for instance, wa
the esteem in which the famous singer. Madam
Sontag, was held, that her death excited universi
sympathy. On her tomb, next that of her siste
Nina, the Duke of Mecklenburg-Strelitz placed
laurel crown of gold. The tomb in question is i
the chapel of the Convent at Marienthal, a viUa§
near Dresden. The crown bore this inscription-

AN ENTHUSIASTIC TRIBUTE 279

" To the best of wives and mothers, the most
faithful of friends, the most beautiful and amiable
of women, the greatest of songstresses, this crown
is dedicated by George, Grand Duke of Mecklen-
burg-Strelitz."

IX

Horace Walpole's opera ticket — Mr. Montagu Guest— Prin
collectors — A wanted museum — ^Unconsidered trifles — Lord Clanri
carde — ^The late Mr. Salting — ^A Sussex gentleman — Some well
known judges of art — Old glass — Anecdotes — Mr. Whistler-
Victorian art — A real Red Lion Square — ^A discouraging sweep-
Italian image-men.

THE maxim, tout vient a point li qui sai
attendre, applies particularly to collecting
Years ago, when Evans' was a flourishing resort
Lady Molesworth, Mr. Bernal Osborne, myself, anc
one or two others went in a party to see what th(
famous resort was like. Whilst there, Mr. Berna
Osborne brought the celebrated Paddy Green to se(
me, the latter having told him that he possessec
Horace Walpole's ticket of admission to the Opera
Paddy Green produced the ticket, and in a gaUan'
little speech declared that I should have it at hii
death, for he would leave it to me. This, however
was of course mere blarney, and when he died, no
very long afterwards, the ticket in question, togethei
with others, was sold at auction, being purchased b]
the late Mr. Hambro. During the present montl
(February 1910), however, I have, owing to a verj
obliging relative of this gentleman, acquired it, am
the ticket which I last saw in Paddy Green's hanc
forty years ago now lies before me.

eSo

MR. MONTAGU GUEST 281

It is of silver, and locket-shaped in form, slightly
chased in front. Within the chasing is inscribed
" Opera Subscription, King's Theatre." On the other
side is " Mr. Horatio Walpole, No. 21."

This ticket was lent for a time to the late Mr.
Montagu Guest in order to complete a collection
of old-time tickets and passes which he had formed.
These, I believe, he bequeathed to the BritishMuseum .
His tragic death, whilst walking with a shooting
party at Sandringham; came as a great blow to his
friends. As one who knew him well once said, Mr.
Guest exercised a refining influence upon every one
with whom he was brought in contact. As an art
connoisseur his great gift was the possession of a fine
sense of form ; a good drawing gave him real delight.

He belonged to the best type of collectors, for
he thoroughly understood the treasures which he
gathered together. Though very catholic in taste,
his particular bent lay in the direction of fine
engravings, with which his house at Brighton was
filled from floor to ceiling. I remember that when
he took me to see his treasures in London, I was
particularly impressed with a number of finely
engraved ball tickets, for which he said he had a
particular affection. Mr. Guest also collected
silhouettes, and had some fine examples of the
work of Myers (who lived near Exeter Change), of
Rosenberg, and of Field. Mr. Guest was a very
good judge of such things, having by many years of
collecting perfected a naturally cultured sense of art.
Like myself, he had learnt much from Mr. Pollard,
the well-known print expert.

282 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

A photograph of the latter was always on Mr
Guest's writing-table, and on the back of it wa
written, " The best judge of prints in London."

Every print collector in the West End knows thi
old friend of mine, with whom I love to discuss th
subjects of which he possesses such abundant an(
accurate knowledge. Though nominally a dealer, h
has never cared to push himself forward in thi
direction, print-selling in his case having ever beei
rather a hobby than a trade. Many an enjoyabl
chat have I had with him in his quaint old room
where we could hardly turn round for fear of touchinj
the numerous engravings with which it was crammed
He has now migrated to newer premises, better fitte(
to accommodate the immense number of print
constantly submitted to him by those desirous o
obtaining his most valuable opinion. He has man;
clients, who, in most instances, are also his friends
Mr. Pollard it was who assisted another friend o
mine, Mr. Behrens, to form his marvellous coUectioi
of coloured English prints.

Several other collectors, notably Major Coates
M.P., and Mr. Harland Peck, possess good coUec
tions, but for its size (for it is not a very large one
Mr. Behrens' is the finest existing^ and this is the mor
to his credit as he has not been collecting for an;
length of years. Major Coates began to buy print
in 1874. The rise in price of old English colour print
since then may be gauged, by the following :^In th
year when this gentleman first began to buy he pai
£15 for a fine example of Lady Hamilton as Nature
Fifteen years later he was offered — and declined — on

ENGLISH COLOUR PRINTS 283

hundred and twenty pounds for the same print.
Its present value, of course, far exceeds this.

When Mr. Behrens first resolved to begin a
collection, he formed one determination, whieJh was
only to buy the best and nothing but the best, and
probably owing to this it is that he now possesses
the finest specimens of English colour prints in
existence. It may not be generally known that the
original price of coloured examples was just twice
that of a proof ; that is to say, if an ordinary print
cost a potmd, the proofs and coloured impressions
cost two.

In some cases, of course, only one or two coloured
examples were produced. Mr. Behrens owns a
print of this sort which is absolutely unique. This
is a coloured impression of the beautiful Miranda
(Mrs. Michael Angelo Taylor), engraved by James
Ward, after the famous picture by Hoppner. It
is very curious that he should have executed this
one example in colour. Most likely it was done for
himself or for some intimate friend. Its tones, it
should be mentioned, are exquisite in their delicacy ;
and the print, besides being unique, is a matchless
work of art. Its value is well over four figures.

Other gems of this collection are an exquisite
impression, said to be the finest ever struck, of the
Countess of Oxford, by S. W. Reynolds, also after
Hoppner — this was originally in a scrap-book
belonging to Gorge iv — Lady Hamilton as Nature,
a magnificent example, and The Salad (spelt
SaUad) Girl, by W. Ward, after Hoppner, the model
for which was the wife of the painter. This print

284 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

came from the collection of Sir Wilfrid Lawson,
which was dispersed at Sotheby's a few years ago.
Another treasure is the original, very beautiful
coloured drawing by Benwell for "A St. James
Beauty," the pretty print which numerous modern
copies have popularised. BenweU was a most
refined worker in wet crayon, and his drawings
are very rare, as he died at the early age of twenty-
one. The engraving, it may be added, hardly
does justice to the original. The print of Lady
Rushout and her daughter — Mr. Behrens' first pur-
chase — is probably the most perfect known. The
colours harmonise delightfully. As a specimen of
stipple, it places Burke in the front rank of engravers.
Whilst Mr. Behrens possesses more than a
hundred examples of the finest and most beautiful
coloured English engravings in existence, he has
also some curiosities of the engraver's art. Such
are the two prints framed back to back of " News
of Peace" — a coach with six horses bearing the
tidings of the victory of Waterloo — and of "News
of Reform," for which, with some slight alterations,
the plate of 1815 was utilised at the time of the
passing of the great Reform Bill in 1832. Rare and
curious, also, is the set of ten prints representing
British Naval Costume in 1799, which, designed by
Rowlandson, were engraved by Merke. These were
originally purchased by a naval officer for presenta-
tion to one of the departments in the Admiralty.
The officials, however (so the story goes), who
presided over it decided after inspection that the
prints (which, it should be added, are of consider-

A WANTED MUSEUM 285

able value, both from an historical and artistic
point of view) were too frivolous to be accepted
by a Government office. Rather should they have
said that they possessed neither the knowledge,
taste, nor intelhgence to appreciate this most
attractive set, which, owing to their rejection,
came into Mr. Behrens' possession.

In the rooms which contain this fine collection
of coloured prints are several fine examples of
old English furniture, including what is probably
a unique Chippendale table of ornate design, with
ball and claw feet. Everything, indeed, indicates
the owner's cultured and refined taste.

Since the above was written. Major Coates,
the owner of a fine collection of English prints;
to which allusion has been made, has earned the
gratitude of all lovers of old London by purchasing
the Gardner collection.

This was a most patriotic act, for the collection
in question is quite unique, and had it gone to
America, which at one time seemed probable,
little short of a national loss would have been
sustained. What is really wanted is a London
Museum somewhat on the lines of the Musee Cama-
valet in Paris, which contains such priceless and
interesting rehcs, prints, and pictures of the city
from its earhest days. A museum of this kind
exercises an educational influence of the very
best kind, and it is to be hoped that before long
the need for such an institution will be recognised.
Why should London lag behind where Paris has so
successfully led ?

286 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

The late Mr. Gerald Ponsonby, another coUectoi
of great knowledge, was taken from a large circle
of devoted friends not very long ago. Whilst he
possessed many beautiful art treasures, of which he
was an excellent judge, his particular hobby was the
accumulation of unconsidered trifles, such as the
souvenirs Sold in the streets on public occasions-
royal weddings, funerals, thanksgivings, and the Uke
Of these he possessed a most extensive and curious
collection, ranging from the days of the eighteentl
century to the present time. His numerous albums
also contained various other trifles, characteristic
of the several epochs when they appeared. The
biU-heads of the past, some of which were finelj
engraved, greatly attracted him, and he possessed
many fine specimens of old accounts embellishee:
with quaint and attractive designs. I myseli
have a few of these old bill-heads, though I car
lay no claim to being the owner of a regular collec-
tion. The pretty custom of having some appropri
ate picture or design at the top of their biUs, whicl
was formerly followed by so many tradesmen
became practically obsolete some fifty or sixtj
years ago. Of late years, however, some of the
dealers in artistic wares have attempted its revival
Even the unembellished bills of the past were
often distinguished by the goodness of their papei
and the fineness of the copper-plate printing
Perhaps the old shopkeepers thought that finel]
designed bills would be more likely to be speedilj
met than common ones.

Mr. Ponsonby loved collecting exactly th(

A PARNELL PAGE 287

same kind of artistic trifles as I didj and Mr. Pollard
often used to say that he was sometimes consider-
ably puzzled, after having acquired something in
our line, to know which of us should be given the
first refusal, our tastes being practically identical.

Always fond of collecting, I have made a point
of obtaining as many as I can of the little souvenirs
connected with the illustrious dead, and, in conse-
quence, I possess quite a number of the little
memorials sold by street vendors at such a time.

When Parnell died, my friend Mr. Justin
M'Carthy did all he could to get me something
of interest in this way. He wrote to me —

October 30th, '91
My Dear Lady Dorothy, — I send you — at
last ! — the only souvenirs from Dublin of Parnell's
funeral. I received them this morning. One re-
presents the scene in the City Hall under the shadow
of O'Connell's statue, the other the grave in
Glasnevin. — With kindest regards, very truly yours,

Justin M'Carthy

The two souvenirs in question I placed on a
special Parnell page in one of my large scrap-books,
where they are accompanied by a green favour
memorial card and some curious covers of match-
boxes — one of them (green) called the Parnell
match, and another (with a picture of the great
leader), the Land League match.

A memorial card which I particularly value is
one relating to the unfortunate Prince Imperial, who
met with such an untimely fate in Zululand thirty-

288 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

one years ago. Upon this is inscribed, " He ii
gone, and has left a stainless name behind, honourec
and respected even by his adversaries " — ^wordi
which, unlike a number of epitaphs, were absoluteh
true.

A collector of very great discrimination
probably ttie finest judge of Dutch pictures liviag-
Lord Clanricarde — is still with us. His is an origina
figure whom there is no mistaking, owing to his ad
herence to the fashions of another age. I have knowi
Lord Clanricarde for many, many years, and hav
always found him a most agreeable and instructiv
talker. As a young man he was in the diplomat!
service, and his recollections of Italian hfe befqr
the unification are now probably unique, for h
is one of the last survivors of those who remembe
the days of the Italian States. His mental gifts
indeed, cultivated by omnivorous reading, are of th
very highest order, and, had he cared to ente
public life, there is no question but that he woul
have attained the highest distinction. His es
ceedingly original disposition, combined with
distaste for society, has, however, precluded an
career of this sort, his tastes lying entirely in th
direction of collecting and reading, to which h
life is devoted. In addition to his knowledge (
pictures. Lord Clanricarde is a fine judge of Sevrt
china. He has accumulated a small but exquisil
collection of blue Sevres, together with man
other objets d'art, such as snuff-boxes, rare medal
and the like, all purchased with discriminating tast'

The principal art treasure, however, which 1

LORD CLANRICARDE 289

possesses is the famous jewel, originally in the
Mogul's treasury at Delhi, and brought back by
Canning from India — the Hercules with the diamond
sword — one of the three great Cinquecento jewels
of the world. It should be added that Lord
Clanricarde has, on several occasions, afforded the
public an opportunity of inspecting this heirloom
by lending it to art exhibitions.

Much obloquy has at times been cast upon this
highly cultivated judge of art on account of his
alleged rapacity as a landlord. As a matter of
fact, such allegations are absolutely false, and
therefore unjust. Only a short time ago Lord
Clanricarde, having very kindly consented to allow
a transatlantic interviewer to see his art treasures
and hear his views upon American collectors, was
rewarded by finding himself branded in a Yankee
paper as a ruthless evictor — surely an ungrateful
return !

Lord Clanricarde, ever since his retirement from
the diplomatic service many years ago, has led a
life of what may be termed semi-retirement, that
is to say, he does not care for society generally,
nor does he ever participate in pubUc functions.
Nevertheless, he takes considerable interest in
current events, and on occasion attends the sittings
of the House of Lords : he chooses to lead his own
life. The fact of his being a great absentee Irish
landlord, his reputed enormous wealth, and his
unassuming and retiring mode of life, have been
seized upon by agitators as reasons for bitter attack.
He has been represented, indeed, as grinding down
19

290 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

an unfortunate tenantry, from whom he extract
the last farthing. As a matter of fact, nothinj
could be more untrue. On the contrary, he is
most just landlord, the proof of which is that ii
several instances the rents upon his estate hav
been actually proved to be lower than those fixe(
by the land courts. It should be added that th
subject of these attacks is profoundly indifferen
to such slanders, which he has always treate(
with contemptuous scorn, living his own life, an(
studying the history of the artistic treasures o
which he is such a consummate judge.

As a girl, I knew Lord Clanricarde's elde
brother. Lord Dunkellin, very well. He was ;
handsome and charming young man when
danced with him in the forties. His death in i86;
excited universal regret.

Of another member of this family, Lady Cork
who is happily still alive, I wiU only say that she com
bines all the qualities of a real grande dame with th
very highest intellectual attainments. To me sh
has always been a highly valued, good, and dea
friend.

The late Mr. George Salting was a friend o
mine. A most handsome figure he was. His was i
curious life, entirely given up to collecting. I thin]
he cared for little else. At the time of his deatl
some very severe comments were passed upon hi
method of interpreting life, nevertheless he bene
fited the country far more than many people wh
have perpetually prated of their solicitude for th
rest of the world. True it is that Mr. Salting wa

A GREAT COLLECTOR 291

entirely immersed in the pursuit of his hobby, but
what a hobby it was — collecting the finest works oi
art of various kinds in order to enrich the people
of England, to whom his collection is bequeathed.

In the course of time I got to know this con-
noisseur well ; indeed, I think I was one of the very
few people with whom he somewhat unbent,
knowing that I, too, had great sympathy with
collecting generally.

His late brother, Mr. William Salting, and his
wife lived close to us in Berkeley Square. We became
great friends with them, and so saw a good deal
of the elder brother whilst staying at Ascot, where
the Saltings had a house.

Mr. George Salting took me to see his rooms
over the Thatched House Club. These, contrary
to what has been asserted, were rather spacious
and quite comfortable, filled practically from floor to
ceiling with the most priceless works of art of all
kinds. I was very pleased to have obtained a view of
this retreat, for such it was, Mr. George Salting hav-
ing been a man of the most retiring nature, content
to live almost exclusively for his beautiful things.

Dignified (in his youth, as I said, he had been
a handsome man) and staid in demeanour, his
was a remarkable figure in the West End, where
he would sometimes walk, carrying his hat in his
hand. His flowing beard, and almost invariable grey
suit, were unmistakable, and, as he passed solemnly
on his way, people would point him out, sa5dng,
" There goes George Salting, the great collector."

I had heard of Mr. Salting years before I met

292 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

him from a great friend of mine, also a collecto:
and a most artistic and clever man — ^the late M:
Fisher of Hill Top, Midhurst. Mr. Fisher was
well-known judge of prints, and a man whose artisti
taste was considerably in advance of his time!
The dispergal of his collection after his death excite
a great deal of attention amongst connoisseurs.

Mr. Fisher was essentially the type of the olc
fashioned collector, studious, accurate, and no
carried away by anything unless the evidence c
its authenticity appeared to be absolutely unim
peachable. Cautious in giving an opinion, whe
given it was based upon a solid stratum of learnin
and research; the slip-shod judgments of moder;
days were quite alien to his nature.

Mr. Fisher's collection consisted principally c
early engravings and illustrated printed Ijooks
which he had gathered together with discriminatini
taste during a great number of years. It wa
richest in the works of the Italian and Germai
engravers, reaching back to an early date. On
of the original members of the Burlington Fin
Arts Club, he had been the intimate friend an(
afterwards the trustee of Mr. Felix Slade. Catholi
in ever5d;hing where art was concerned, Mr. Fishe
also possessed a fine collection of Japanese netsukes
of which he prepared a comprehensive catalogue
together with an historical essay, the outcome o
much research. As an expert authority on earh
Italian prints, Mr. Fisher was in 1881 entrusted b]
the trustees of the British Museum with the im
portant task of compiling a catalogue of th(

A SUSSEX GENTLEMAN 293

engravings of this school in our great National
Treasure-house.

In 1890, at the age of eighty-one, much to the
regret of those privileged to enjoy his friendship, the
enthusiastic, liberal-minded, and kindly Sussex gentle-
man (he came of a good county stock) passed away.

Mr. Fisher's son married one of Mr. Cobden's
daughters, and still lives near Midhurst, where I
have paid him many delightful visits. The in-
fluence of Cobden's political activity would still
appear to linger in this district, for, a short time
ago, this old-world county town was thrown into
quite a turmoil by suffragette and anti-suffragette
agitation. This, however, has, I believe, of late
considerably abated.

Though Mr. Fisher is a Liberal, as befits one
who married the great Free Trader's daughter, he
is a man of great moderation — a real Liberal, in
short. His clever letters, which show a real insight
into politics, are ever a delight to me. Like his
father, he is one of my most valued friends.

A conspicuous example of a judicious collector
was the late Mr. Justice Day, whose pictures fetched
such large prices at Christie's. Many stories have
been told about him. A severe man on the bench.
Judgment Day, as he was sometimes facetiously
called, showed little patience to barristers who
conducted their cases in a wearisome and lengthy
manner. On one occasion an advocate of this sort
was specially verbose about some bags connected
with the case which was being tried, and which he
very unnecessarily described at considerable length.

294 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

pointing out that they might have been fuU bags
half-filled bags, or even empty bags. " Or perhaps,'
dryly interpolated Mr. Justice Day, " wind bags.'
At Bristol the drastic sentences of this judg(
gained him the appellation of " Day of Reckoning,'
which, when on one occasion he was for a momen
observed to snooze on the bench, was changed t(
" Day of Rest."

Mr. Alfred Rothschild, most kindly and generou
of men, is an unrivalled judge of French art. JJi
has, however, never allowed his taste in this directioi
to obscure the many social interests which h
enjoys, and though a collector, is at the same tim
a clever man of the world.

The late Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild, ;
certain portion of whose collection was befc[ueathei
to the British nation, was another fine judge. H
filled Waddesdon with rare and beautiful things
a number of which still remain there. I do no
think, however, that its present possessor, Mis
Ahce de Rothschild, whom I have known for man
years, is herself a collector. She is, however,
very clever woman, and my visits to her ha^v
always given me the greatest pleasure.

Amongst collectors I must not forget that mos
genial of Radical peers, Lord Weardale, whose fir
house in Carlton Gardens contains many beautifi
specimens of theFrench art of the eighteenth centur
including some pictures by Drouais. No. 3 Carltc
Gardens has always been noted for the graceful an
cosmopolitan hospitality dispensed there by Loi
Weardale and his most charming of wives.

JiAliCKAl^JLJi AKi 295

The last century, whilst conspicuous for the
vast strides made in invention and commerce,
was, especially at its commencement, an age of
execrable art. Perhaps the most striking example
of this was the statue of a favourite Newfound-
land dogj executed for Lord Dudley by Mr. Wyatt,
for which nearly four thousand pounds was paid.

This statue, of life-size, was executed in various
marbles in order to imitate nature as nearly as
possible, both in colour and in form.

The animal was represented standing on a
cushion, with a snake between his legs, and was
placed on a marble pedestal enriched with mosaic
work and ormolu ornaments. The cushion was of
richly veined Sienna marble, and the animal of
statuary and Derbyshire black marbles united
together with much skill, after the same manner
as the black and whjte were distributed on his body.
His claws were of mother-of-pearl, and his eyes most
curiously formed of oriental topaz, lined with
sardonyx, very nearly approaching nature. The
snake beneath was in metal similar to bronze, and
its eyes formed of brillant diamonds. The effect of
the statue, with all the assistance these decorations
lend, was perhaps imposing, although not at all
consonant with the principles of sound taste.
Neither was the variegated effect altogether original,
for, during the Middle Ages, when the arts were at
their lowest ebb, a similar method was then used in
the decoration of statues.

In the seventies appeared s5rmptoms of the col-
lecting mania, which has since conquered so many.

296 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

I think I was one of the first people to appreciate
the old glass colour prints which are now so popular.
The first real collector of these in London was the
late Marquis d'Azeglio, a well-known figure in London
society, who was fond of artistic trifles long before
the majority of people gave much attention to them.
A glass print portrait of John Wilkes is one of my
treasures, and, whenever possible, I add to the
number of the pictures which I possess. The rarest
and earliest of glass coloured prints are of royal
personages; the authenticity of such portraits is,
perhaps, best determined by their frames. Earlj
examples are generally in carved and gilt wood, and
those after 1740 in black pear wood, with a golc
mount. The best and rarest of these glass prints
were coloured in a most artistic manner ; the olc
Dutch and French ones have the gold lace of th(
costumes indicated by touches of real gold, cleverly
laid on behind. This, however, is very rare ii
English examples. John Downman, the celebratec
artist, employed some of the methods used in makin|
glass prints, colour being applied behind the back
the paper of his beautiful portraits.

In these days almost every one is a collector
What a difference from former times, when so man;
things now highly prized were deemed worthless
Who would have ever thought that old English glas
would have realised the large prices which it doe
to-day, when even the old rummers formerly used i
public-houses, I believe, are eagerly sought for
Finely engraved glass, however, was, of cours(
always treasured. I possess a nice specimen in th

AUDENTIOR ITO 297

shape of a two-handled engraved cup, but, alas ! I
lent it for exhibition, and it got cracked in transit —
a warning for the future. I have also a very fine
Stuart wineglass which has been exhibited, and
attracted much attention. A lady wrote to me some
time ago describing a somewhat similar one in her
possession, about six inches high, taU stem, small
bowl, spiral threads running up inside the stem.

Its history was curious . When her father went to
live at Moor Court, Kingston, Herefordshire, left to
him by his great-uncle, James Davies, in 1857, he
found the glass in a drawer with some old curiosities.
It is antique, and beautifully engraved with the rose
(for England), the oak leaf (for the Stuarts), and the
Star of the Garter. Round the stand is the legend
Audentior ito roughly scratched with a diamond.
As far as her father could remember, the story
attaching to it was as follows : —

To an ancestor of his great-uncle residing in some
town near the sea-coast there came, soon after the
rebellion of 1745, a stranger, seeking shelter and a
hiding-place. This was given him, and, when he
left, he expressed his gratitude and the hope that he
might some day repay the kindness he had received.
Some months later a gentleman, who had taken a
prominent part in the rebellion, called on the
family and said that Prince Charles Edward had
commissioned him to visit them, and to beg their
acceptance of half a dozen glasses of the pattern
above described, in remembrance of their succour
when he so much needed it.

(Her great-great-uncle's mother was a Powell of

298 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Cromclyn, Brecknockshire, and his father, Williai
Davies of Bryrllys Castle, in the same county.)
The legend is clearly suggested by Virgil's lines-

Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito,
Quam tua te fortuna sinet. — Mn. vi. 95.

A few years ago some one had presented 1
Queen Victoria for her collection of Stuart relii
at Balmoral a toast-firing glass. The descriptic
given showed it to have been similar to this glai
in its ornament, except that it had additionally
full-length engraving of the Prince.

Some fine Stuart glasses were recently foun
in an old Norfolk country house by Mr. CharL
Edward Jerningham, the clever writer, who is sue
an authority upon collecting. A case of Englis
glass belonging to him is in the Victoria and Albei
Museum. Mr. Jerningham's family was close]
connected with the Stuart cause. The Pretende
indeed, is said to have made a surreptitious vis
to the home of this gentleman's ancestors. Durir
the exile of Prince Charlie a Norwich tradesma
of good standing was constantly employed i
Sir George Jerningham's, the head of the famil;
who, at the time of the rebellion, was viewed wii
suspicion in the country by his neighbour
After quiet was restored, and things were falle
again into their usual train, every one resumed h
usual emplo37ment, and the Norwich tradesma
was once more frequently at Sir George's, h
station being in the steward's room, where one ds
it was mysteriously whispered that a certain grei
personage was soon to arrive. Subsequently

VICTORIAN ARTISTS 299

solemn silence was observed, but upon inquiry
the steward acknowledged to the tradesman that
Charles Stuart had been there, and was gone away.
He added that when he came to the house a
principal member of the family had waited to
usher him to the apartment that was prepared
for him, in which he confined himself while he
stayed, so that he was never seen by any servant
of the family, except by the steward, who saw
him once for a few minutes. This unfortunate
stranger left the house in the same invisible manner,
and none but the principal members of the family
knew whence he came, or whither he went away.

The famous English artists of the Victorian
Era have now, without exception, all passed
away. Though this age has, with a good deal of
justice, been called inartistic, much that was pro-
duced in it will undoubtedly command the admira-
tion of future generations, especially, I think, the
tapestries designed by Burne Jones, whilst the finely
printed volumes, due to the interest taken by WiUiam
Morris in typography, wiU ever remain models of
what can be done in the way of artistic printing.

I have known a good many artists — Landseer,
Lord Leighton, MUlais, and others ; but the most
amusing and unconventional of all was undoubtedly
Mr. Whistler. At one time I used to see a good
deal of him, and I stiU retain some of the whimsical
pamphlets which he sent me. He was, as is well
known, most original in his ways, and punctuality
was not one of his strong points. On one occasion,
when asked to dinner by a somewhat punctilious

300 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

host, the party, after waiting for an unconscionab
long time, eventually sat down to dinner. Soi
and fish were served, and still no Whistler appearei
and when at last he arrived, the host was in an
thing but the best of tempers, as his countenan
showed. ^Whistler, however, was in no wise di
Concerted, for, cheerily grasping a somewhat Un
hand, he rattled out, " Don't apologise for havii
begun without me. I shan't be offended in tl
very least," after which, taking his seat, ]
became the life and soul of the party.

Punctuality was, I think, a virtue more gene
ally practised in old days than now, and being la
for church, in particular, was regarded as a sort
mild crime. A country clergyman, who was
well-known character, once administered an amu
ing rebuke to a congregation, rather given ■
coming late. In the course of the week he h£
heard of one of his parishioners who had sold a co
and a churn, and bought a new dress and bonne
On Sunday he perceived this woman was amoi
the first who arrived at the meeting, dressed oi
in her new costume. After he had commence
and had progressed some distance in the servic
he was interrupted by the arrival of several persoi
who lived near the church, and who might ha^
come before. With characteristic unconventionalii
he apostrophised the culprits as follows : " Are y(
not ashamed of yourselves to come in at this la
hour, and disturb the worship ? Here is a woman wl
has come two mUes this morning, with a cow on h
back and a churn on her head, and got here in time

MODERN ART 301

Mr. Boughton the painter was another American
friend of mine, but though American by birth, he
had become much of an Enghshman by choice.
London, he always said, was the most hospitable
city in the world, where mere social distinction or
riches did not ensure as much respect as cleverness
or talent. Whether, however, such a compli-
mentary estimate of English society holds good at
the present time is not entirely beyond question.
Interesting people, or those who had done some-
thing interesting, are now not lionised (as a phrase
very popular in the eighties of the last century ran)
to anything like the same extent as newly dis-
covered millionaires.

Society cares, I think, little about modem art.
It does not now rush to see the picture of the year
at the Academy as was once the case, notably in
1858, when the receipts amounted to an unpre-
cedented sum, more than £9000, taken in shillings
at the door, a result mostly due to the attractions
of Mr. Frith's " Derby Day," a picture that seemed
likely to make a fortune for artist, owner, and
engraver. Including copyright, Mr. Frith received
for it £3000. It gave the Royal Academy £2000
in excess of their best years.

Mr. Frith died only a year or two ago. He is
one of the few modern artists whose pictures have
to some degree kept their value. I believe he
continued painting to the end.

Many collectors of Victorian pictures have
suffered very heavily in their pockets for having
encouraged the artists of the last fifty years, in

302 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

many cases picttires for which four figures hai
been paid having scarcely fetched three. Picture
buying has always been a hazardous speculation.

Before Savage Landor, the poet, left England ii
1858, he sent his collection of pictures to Mr. Capes
of Manchester, for sale. His collection had acquire(
(falsely enough) a kind of reputation. He ha(
picked his pictures up in Italy, fanc5dng himself a
good a judge of art as another literary coUector-
Samuel Rogers. Rogers' collection brought nobl
prices ; Landor's collection sold (and not unjustly
for insignificant prices. In short, the average pric
of each picture — pictures bearing the noblest name
of art — was under ten shillings.

Alexis Soyer, the great chef, was a far bette
judge of art than Landor. A great admirer
beauty, he even carried his taste into the selectioi
of the female assistants in his kitchen. Lore
Melbourne, himself an. admirer of the fair sex, wa
one day inspecting the kitchen arrangements
the Reform Club, under the guidance of the grea
chef. Attracted by the beauty of the man;
females engaged in cooking operations, the veterai
peer turned round and complimented Soyer upo]
his taste in more senses than one. " Ah, my lord,'
was the quiet rejoinder, " it won't do to hav
plain cooks here ! " At one time Soyer was upoi
the point of being married to Cerito. At his owi
cost (and it was no slight expense) he had th
portrait of this celebrated danseuse painted an(
lithographed. A most versatile man, the inventiv
genius of Soyer was displayed in a thousand ways

AN ARTISTIC COOK 303

Amongst other whims of his, he used to cut out
patterns of his own clothing, with astonishing
results. One night he presented himself at the
door of the opera-house in morning dress. " Can't
admit you, sir," said the check-taker. " Why ? "

was the laconic inquiry. " Because " when,

looking again at Soyer, he saw that he was in dress
clothes. By the simple contrivance of pulling a
string Soyer had changed in an instant the cut
and fashion of his clothing, as comedians do in a
trick act.

A new generation scarcely remembers the name
of this famous cook, which, nevertheless, deserves
to be remembered as one of those who principally
contributed to break down the absurd and wasteful
system so common in English kitchens, and to
train up a class of cooks whose knowledge extends
farther than the common feat of boiling " a
thousand pounds of meat a hundred hours to make
one basin of broth."

Soyer, as I have said, was something of a con-
noisseur, and when he • died left the following
pictures to the National Gallery — "A Centen-
arian," " An EngHsh Ceres," " Young Israelites,"
" Young Bavarians," and a portrait of Madame
Soyer, who was an artist of some talent.

I do not fancy that at heart the British public
is really artistic. Certainly English taste in the
last century stood at a very low ebb. A so-called
Committee of Taste in 1858 recommended that the
lions of Trafalgar Square should be of stone, painted
red, which, as some one suggested, would make the

304 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

place a real " Red Lion Square." It was on
through the efforts of Mr. Disraeli that the ;^6o(
necessary for the completion of the Square in i
present form was voted.

The lower grades of the people in particul
entertained a profound contempt for art.

At the time when the Royal Academy was
Somerset House, Joseph Moser, nephew of the fir
keeper, who afterwards became a well-knov
police magistrate, had rooms there, where he work(
as an artist in enamel, in which branch of art ]
attained some proficiency. He used to tell
whimsical story of the public appreciation of art.

His studio was a very large room in the apai
ments that belonged to the Academy. It w
well furnished with plaster casts, with pictun
prints, and drawings, framed and glazed, besid
his furnace, and other matters that were connect^
with it. The way that led to it was through t
gallery of antiques. He had a chimney-sweep
to sweep his chimney, and attended himself to s
it done, that none of the numerous articles shot
be injured. When the operation was performs
the boy collected his tools, and before he plac
them on his back, stared with wonder round t
room for a long time in silence. Moser ask
what he was looking at.

" Pray, sir," said the boy, " do you make
these things ? "

" Yes," was the reply.

" Ah ! the Lord help your poor head," was 1
blackey's reply. " I always thought my tra

IMAGE-MEN 305

was a very hard one, but I am sure that yours is
a much harder ! "

In old days very few English people devoted
their attention to art, which was^ I think, mostly
associated in their minds with the wandering
Italians (formerly known as image-men) who used
to be seen about the streets bearing a number
of classical figures and busts made of some white
composition, who have now for some years ceased
to ply their trade. Nevertheless, these wanderers
in all probability greatly helped to improve the
public taste, and familiarised English eyes with
some of the masterpieces of the past. Previous
to their appearance, the English art, paraded
through the streets, was conj&ned to cats with
moving heads, green parrots, wooden lambs
covered with cotton wool, or, if the figure of a
man was attempted, a coarse boor holding a pot
of beer.

At the present moment the English school of
painting cannot be said to be in an entirely satis-
factory state. Not a few artists would do well to
alter their professions, like the one who became a
doctor, because he said he thought that then his
blunders would be hidden underground.

Though England, especially in the eighteenth
century, has produced some great painters, the
majority of our modern artists do not seem likely
to achieve a lasting reputation. Amongst the
exceptions is Mr. Mark Milbanke, the clever portrait
painter, who executed such an excellent picture of
my cousin. Lord Abergavenny, for the Carlton Club.
20

X

A relic of Queen Victoria — Old cards and menus — ^Anecdotes—
My sister. Lady Pollington — ^The Aerhedon — Boring the Admiralty
— Changes of last sixty years — Pekinese dogs — A bored Pasha-
English Burgundy — Lord Wemyss — Blue coats and brass buttons-
Lord Brougham's trousers — Shawls and crinolines — Lady Charlotte
Lyster — Some old letters — Llandrindod in 1813 — Setting out for the
wars — A pedagogue's epistle — ^Under five reigns — Conclusion.

LOOKING through some old papers, I came the
other day upon a relic of the late Queen in
the shape of a packet containing some dried
remnants of flowers, now almost dissolved into
powder. On the faded paper which holds these
blossoms of long ago is inscribed —

Given by the Princess Victoria at the age
of 7 years old, when she came to Eridge Castle,
being the only flowers her garden at Tunbridge
WeUs produced.

In all probability, the flowers in question were
given by the child Princess to my mother-in-law,
the Honourable Mrs. George Nevill, who passed
much of her time at Eridge.

The Duchess of Kent and Princess Victoria
were very fond of paying visits to country houses, a
fancy which King William iv did all he could to
discourage, highly disapproving of such progresses.

306

BRITANNIA'S VALENTINE 307

I used at one time to amuse myself by illumin-
ating skeletonised leaves which had been stretched
upon paper.

These skeleton leaves were those of the Ficus
religiosa, a species of fig tree which we grew in our
hothouse.

The leaves in question were first of aU skeleton-
ised by maceration, and coated with isinglass, which
rendered them capable of being painted on. The
delicate design was elaborated by minute illumina-
tion, which produced a very pretty effect.

One of my best skeleton leaves I illuminated
for Lord Beaconsfield, and this his executors, after
the great statesman's death, very kindly gave
back to me.

Illuminating verses of poetry, texts, and the like,
were favourite amusements of ladies in the days
before they had become emancipated.

This was the time when valentines were so
popular. To-day they are practically obsolete.
Not so very many years ago they used to be sent
in large numbers on February 14th, and in the
past they were largely utilised as a medium of
satire in publications such as The Hornet. An
especially amusing one appeared as a cartoon on
February nth, 1874. It represented Britannia,
with Gladstone and Disraeli kneeling at her feet.
Beneath is written —

Britannia's valentine

Neither of you is Choice of Mine :
Lord Derby is my Valentine.

3o8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

The central large cartoon of the same number
shows Disraeli as a triumphant gladiator, standing
above the prostrate forms of Mr. Gladstone and
Mr. Lowe. It is entitled " The Appeal to the
People." Curiously enough, he is facing a body
of women, whose thumbs are turned down, the
ladies in question, as an inscription in front of them
shows, being advocates of Women's Suffrage.

The Christmas card, I believe, is more modern
than the valentine.

The earliest Christmas card published was
issued from Summerly's Home Treasury Office,
No. 12 Old Bond Street, in the year 1846. The
design was drawn by Mr. J. C. Horsley, R.A., at
the suggestion of Sir Henry Cole, then Mr. Cole.
I possess one of these Christmas cards — a facsimile
reproduction sent me by Sir Henry and Lady Cole
in the sixties.

Though I have collected most things in my
time, I never thought of keeping Christmas cards
or valentines. A collection of old ones would now
be curious. On the other hand, I have a large
collection of menus, which dates back some forty
years or more. One of the most decoi;ative of these
is the menu of the dinner given to the old Shah
of Persia, Naser-ed-din, by the Corporation of
the City of London at the Guildhall in 1873. The
border of this card is Persian in character, and
of a highly decorative design.

The card of invitation to the reception given
by the Corporation to the same monarch was also
extremely artistic, being embellished with an ex-

MENUS 309

cellent portrait I of the Shah, the Persian arms,
and those of thaCity of London, and a view of
the town of Teheran, with Mount Demavand capped
with its eternal s1;iow in the background. The
card in my possession was given me by Lord Claud
Hamilton, whose name it bears.

I have also the menu of the lunch given to the
same Shah in the GuUdhall on his second visit in
1889. Though ornate, it is not of such an artistic
character as the one mentioned before,^ little
attempt being made at any characteristically
Persian decoration.

I have a large number of menus of royal dinner-
parties and the like, many of them given on special
occasions, such as royal betrothals. In many
cases the names of the guests have been written
in pencil on the backs, which imparts an additional
interest. Not a few collectors have made a practice
of this when dining out, and there was a somewhat
eccentric individual (who collected literally every-
thing) who, wherever he dined, persistently
noted down not only the names of the people
he met, but also any particulars of the dinner
which struck him as being worthy of record. Meet-
ing some one whom he had not seen for thirty years,
who said, " I suppose you don't remember me,"
the collector at once replied, " Oh yes, I do, for
the soup was so cold the last time that we had the
pleasure of dining together that I made a special
note of it." This character belonged to a dining
club to which he often went, and every evening
before leaving he made it a practice to inquire

310 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

of the steward, who had dined at the club ? care-
fully taking down the names. He was in conse-
quence able to recapitulate the diners for many
years back. Another of his manias, for they were
little else, was carefully to put away and keep
certain papers. The Daily Telegraph was his
favourite* and he possessed every copy of this from
its first appearance in 1855. Eventually, owing
to the enormous bulk of paper, he became seriously
embarrassed as to what to do, and was eventually
only extricated from his embarrassment (for he
resolutely declined to destroy any of the papers)
by a friend, who very kindly offered to store the
weighty mass in his country house, to which, with
considerable trouble, it was eventually removed.
It should be added that the collector in question,
besides gathering together a good deal of rubbish,
had many really valuable things, including some
good English furniture and clocks, of which he was
a judge At the sale held after his death a few
years ago good prices were realised.

In my scrap-books I have a few old ball pro-
grammes. How different were dances in the past
from those given to-day !

There were formerly few waltzes, quadrilles
being the principal dances, and these were very
popular. I myself have danced in a quadrille at
a fSte at old Vauxhall Gardens ; the late Lord
Mayo was my partner.

My sister Rachel, a very good dancer, was one
of the first young ladies to dance the polka in
London. At Mrs. Spencer Stanhope's ball in the

THE POLKA 311

late thirties of the last century a deputation of
ladies begged the hostess about three in the morning
to allow the polka to be danced, as there were six
ladies in the room who understood it. Permission
having been accorded, the six (one of whom was
my sister) stepped out with their partners, all of
them, curiously enough, dressed in black, which
caused people to say it was a chimney-sweep's
dance. Extraordinary excitement was created by
the innovation. Lady Jersey, the Duchess of Bed-
ford, and numbers of other fine ladies clambering
up on chairs and benches to get a good view. My
sister was then just out of the schoolroom, and had
recently married Lord PoUington, son of Lord
Mexborough. She adored dancing, her love of
which may be realised when I say that the night
before her only son, the present Lord Mexborough,
was born, she was at Lady Salisbury's dance in
Arlington Street tUl one-thirty — ^the child was born
an hour and a half later.

How different was the appearance of the London
streets in my young days, when the West End
consisted almost solely of the box-like Georgian
houses, which year by year are growing fewer in
number.

The lamplighters still went their rounds, carry-
ing ladders in order to reach their lamps, and the
picturesque-looking milkmaids, or rather mtlk-
Women, always with coloured shawls about their
shoulders, carried their paUs suspended from a
wooden yoke, such as, I fancy, has long gone out
of use.

312 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

As far as I recollect there were no German bands
in those days, though hurdy-gurdys, ground by
men who were usually accompanied by a monkey,
were not uncommon. Punch and Judy shows
were quite frequently met with in the West End,
where, I believe, one alone now survives, though a
more elaborate and pretentious form of the same
entertainment is a regular feature of children's
parties.

In the middle of the last century a good many
inventions, which have now been brought to per-
fection, were being vaguely foreshadowed.

As long ago as 1858, for instance. Lord Carling-
ford announced to the public that he had discovered
the secret of flight. Paragraphs appeared in the
papers to the effect that he had " clearly estab-
lished the principle of aerial navigation," that the
Aerhedon, or " aerial chariot," in the construction of
which his lordship had spent several years, " having
flown and proved the perfection of its principle,
and of the manner in which it has been carried out,
it is now a question of forming a company for the
purpose of bringing it out, and then for the whole
world to witness at last the long-sought-for dis-
covery, advancing civilisation, and administering
to the happiness and prosperity of nations."

During my youth the telegraph was unknown,
for only in 1844, after an experiment across the
Thames at Somerset House, did Professor Wheat-
stone, in conjunction with Mr. Cooke, lay down
the first working line on the Great Western Railway
from Paddington to Slough.

BORING THE ADMIRALTY 313

Some twenty years before, Ronalds, a clever but
unlucky inventor, had submitted a form of tele-
graphy to Lord Melville, then First Lord of the
Admiralty. The latter, however, had replied,
through Mr. Barrow, " that telegraphs of any kind
were wholly unnecessary, and that no other than
the one then in use would be adopted." " I felt,"
wrote Ronalds, with the spirit of a true philosopher,
which we can now thoroughly appreciate, " very
little disappointment, and not a shadow of resent-
ment on the occasion, because everybody knows
that telegraphs have long been great bores at the
Admiralty."

Things which are now ordinary features of
everyday life were unknown in my childhood.
Only in 1839 did lamps with sperm oil replace the
mutton-fat candles generally used in our Norfolk
home.

Tinder boxes were then not obsolete, whilst
rushlights and dip candles were stUl in general use.
The spring candlesticks of that day were the joy
of mischievous children, who used to revel in the
delight of letting the spring go, and thus shooting
the lighted candle up to the ceiling — a most
destructive and dangerous trick it was.

The original inventor of Lucifer matches was,
I believe, Mr. John Walker, of Stockton, a chemist,
who died in 1859. The discovery was made by
him whilst experimenting with various chemical
substances, and for a considerable time he realised
a handsome income from the sale of his matches
in boxes at one shilling and sixpence each. This

314 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

did not last long. Professor Faraday, being in the
north, heard of the invention, and in passing
through Stockton obtained a box, which he took
with him to London, and referred to in one of his
lectures.

Though the world in which I Uved as a child was
a totally dilferent one from that of to-day — in many
ways as different as that of prehistoric times — I am
not conscious of having witnessed any sudden
changes ; everything, indeed, seems to have evolved
by gradual steps, though of late years violently
Radical ideas seem to have made very quick
progress.

The world of my childhood knew neither the tele-
phone nor the electric light ; railways were in their
infancy, and the motor-car and airship undreamt
of as practical possibilities The aristocracy still
possessed real power, and enjoyed considerable
privileges ; whilst the Utopian conceptions of Social-
ism, if thought of at all, could have been pubhcly
preached only at considerable personal risk. The
cosmopohtan ideas which are now becoming so
widely spread, would have then been very unpopular
amongst the overwhelming mass of Enghshmen and
EngUshwomen, for dread and dislike of the foreigner
yet lingered from the not very distant time of the
Napoleonic wars.

In former days, when Ufe moved slowly, people
became very attached to the houses in which they
lived, and did not change from one to the other as is
at present the case. Now a house is purchased one
year and sold the next. Some persons possessed of a

HOUSES— OLD AND NEW 315

knack for doing up their houses in an attractive
manner have at times made almost a profession of
this. The idea of a permanent home seems to have
but slight attraction for those of the present genera-
tion well endowed with the good things of the
world; in all probabiUty the custom of making
frequent trips abroad, and staying in luxuriously
equipped hotels, has largely contributed to such a
state of affairs. Formerly, people troubled them-
selves little about artistic surroundings, and provided
a house was comfortable to live in, little more was
required, and they often spent the whole of their
lives in one house, for which, from habit, they felt a
sentimental attachment. To-day the vast majority
of those living in the West End appear ready to sell or
let their residence without the least feeling of regret,
provided they can secure advantageous terms. A
great number of the houses about Mayfair appear
to be quite new, but such is in a vast number of
instances not the case, the real truth being that the
old building still exists in a remodelled form, together
with an ornate facade, generally of a style somewhat
out of keeping with the staid Georgian spirit of the
locahty.

At the same time, it must be admitted that the
modern houses are generally far more bright and
comfortable than were those of half a century ago,
in which too often a dull uniformity of colouring
produced an inevitable feeling of depression.

One of the greatest changes is that which has
taken place in house decoration, and especially in the
adornment of rooms, which were formerly much

3i6 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

stiffer and less comfortable, in appearance at least,
than to-day. The rooms used by men were especi-
ally bleak, and any attempt at their artistic adorn-
ment, decoration by flowers and the like, would have
been branded with the stigma of effeminacy.
People had a sort of idea that a certain amount of
discomfort lortified and strengthened the character.
It is now difficult to decide whether they were right,
but without doubt the strengthening process, as
applied to delicate children, frequently led to their
untimely demise. Delicate boys, if not positively
forbidden by school regulations to wear greatcoats
except on certain stated occasions, were yet pre-
vented from doing so by the public opinion of their
schoolmates. This was the state of affairs at Eton
up to a comparatively recent period, and directly or
indirectly it produced, in all probability, a good deal
of illness.

Girls, now encouraged to take part in healthy
out-of-door pursuits, were the victims of all sorts of
prejudices as to what was and what was not proper
for a young lady to do, the result being that the
natural developement of their minds, as well as of
their bodies, was shackled and cramped.

On the whole, I should say the physical side of life
is far more natural and healthy to-day than ever
before since the days of primitive man, for it is now
pretty generally understood that fresh air, which our
ancestors generally tried to exclude by all the means
in their power, is as necessary to humanity as fresh
water to the fish. The stuffy atmosphere of rooms,
where windows were seldom opened and the rays of

ENTHUSIASTIC APPRECIATION 317

the sun scarcely allowed to penetrate, must have been
responsible for thousands of deaths, for, as we now
know, the germs of terrible diseases flourish best
under such conditions.

In former days many things which are accounted
quite ordinary now were considered great luxuries.
PdU de foie gras, for instance, was in England
not to be obtained so easily as is at present the
case, and a terrine from Strasburg was a gift highly
appreciated in most country homes. We all
remember the Rev. Sydney Smith's high apprecia-
tion of this delicacy. " My idea of heaven,"
said he, " is eating foie gras to the sound of trum-
pets."

Foreign truffles were also not to be obtained
in as fresh a condition as prevails at the present
time. Personally I have always been fond of the
somewhat neglected EngHsh truffle which grows
under beech trees, and is to be found in many
places in Hampshire. Pate de foie gras, without
its succulent truffles, has been aptly called a flower
without perfume. The French in particular have
always highly appreciated the esculent in question.
Of it a Frenchwoman once wrote : " Rien que le
voir les yeux rient et les coeurs chantent."

Besides taking a great interest in the English
truffle. Tuber cestivum, I at one time took up the
subject of edible fungi, to the study of which I
was prompted by a great muscologist, the Rev.
M. B. Berkeley. Most people regard anything
in this line, except mushrooms, as being poisonous
in the extreme, but this is not strictly true ; many

3i8 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

sO-called toadstools, indeed, are valuable, though
neglected, accessories of the table, capable of
accentuating and varjdng the flavour of many a
dish. The most dangerous fungi closely resemble
harmless species. Mushrooms are Hke men — the
bad most flosely imitate the good. Cup-shaped
toadstools, and the gorgeous ones which grow in
such profusion in shady spots, are also highly
dangerous. Puff balls, on the other hand, are said
to be fairly harmless, though hardly fit for eating.
Admirable are the quahties of the neglected Fairy
Ring, and also of the edible Boletus, so much liked
by Dumas ; the tall parasol mushroom is also one
of the most deUcious of edible fungi. The highly
poisonous Amanita, red, salmon, and yellow, with
white scales beneath, is no doubt largely responsible
for the ill-odour in which so-caUed toadstools are
held, some, hke the giant puff baU, quite unjustly.
Fried and shced this latter is harmless, and quite
palatable.

A great change in country houses has been
the introduction of bathrooms, formerly very rare
even in London, at a time when bathing conveni-
ences for the public at large were non-existent.
The first Turkish baths in London were estabhshed
in Jermyn Street, about forty years ago, by a Mr.
Urquhart. This gentleman, who had extremely
original views, was a peace advocate of the most
uncompromising kind. He actually put forward
a proposal that any unjust war should be prevented
by the leaders of the various schools of rehgious
thought, who should prohibit those over whom

GENERAL TOM THUMB 319

;y had influence from fighting. This was at a
le when trouble was brewing with Afghanistan,
d Mr. Urquhart went so far as to urge the
chbishop of Canterbury to excommunicate the
leen !

London formerly contained a number of curious
liibitions, some of them dating back to the eight-
ith century. The most important of these was
ss Linwood's exhibition of needlework pictures
Leicester Square, which was first opened to the
bhc in 1787, lasted well into my time, being closed
1846, when she died in her ninetieth year. Most

the pictures in question, which were skilfuUy
irked, were copies after famous masters. It would

interesting to know what has become of these
irks, which at one time were reckoned amongst the
hts of London.

People were much interested in curiosities,
dch now would provoke httle interest, though
observe that dwarfs still attract the public.
tiat a sensation the famous General Tom Thumb
;d to produce ! He was a very irascible little man,
d the following anecdote was told about him.

The General, having had an angry discussion
th his mother, in whose favour he had previously
ide his win, the dame menaced his little person
th a flogging unless he comphed with her wishes,
t Tom, notwithstanding, continued to hold out,
til, finding himself suspended in mid-air in one
ad, and the birch ready to be appKed in the
ler, he roared out at the top of his infantine
ice, " Mind what you are about, mothei: ; if you

320 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

hit me I'll change my will, you may depend on it,"
and the birch, as by enchantment, fell harmless
from the uplifted hand.

The introduction of many usages, now general,
gave rise to amusing incidents. Such a one was
the story told of an old-fashioned couple who
received a card of invitation to dinner from some
much gayer folks than themselves. At the bottom
of the card was the then new R.S.V.P. This
puzzled the worthy pair, who could not make out
what the mysterious letters meant. The old gentle-
man took a nap upon it, from which he was awakened
by his helpmate, who said, after shaking him up,
■ " My love, I have found it out. R.S.V.P. means —
Remember six, very punctual ! "

In former days there was a great deal more
etiquette as to certain social usages than is the
case to-day. The paying of calls, for instance,
was strictly regulated by a code, any breach of
which was seriously regarded. The leaving of
cards was also subject to well-defined social laws,
and usage decreed that, of two people, it should
always be the one of higher rank who first left their
visiting cards.

Visiting cards, it is probably not generally
known, originated from ordinary plapng cards,
which were used as such as late as the close of the
eighteenth century. A proof of this is that when,
some time ago, certain repairs were being made at
a house in Dean Street, Soho, a few playing cards
with names written on the back were found behind
a marble chimney-piece. One of the cards in ques-

PERCY VERE 321

tion was inscribed " Isaac Newton," and the house
had been the residence of his father-in-law, Hogarth,
in one of whose pictures of Marriage ct la mode —
Plate IV. — several 'playing card' visiting cards
may be seen lying on the floor in the right-hand
side of the picture, one of them inscribed, " Count
Basset begs to no how Lady Squander slept last
nite." As time went on specially devised visiting
cards, with somewhat ornate calligraphy, took the
place of playing cards, and these in time developed
into the small and simple pieces of pasteboard in
use to-day.

At one time there was a great mania for con-
cealing doors by all sorts of devices, and in the
libraries of old English country houses there was
generally a door contrived in the bookcases, one
side of which was covered with sham books to
match the rest of the room. The titles were
sometimes very amusing, the best instance being
in the library at Chatsworth, where the titles in
question were composed by Tom Hood for the
Duke of Devonshire of the day. Amongst them
is On cutting off Heirs with a Shilling, by Barber
Beaumont. There actually existed a gentleman
of this name, J. T. Barber Beaumont, F.S.A.,
Major of the Duke of Cumberland's Sharpshooters,
who wrote several real books. Percy Vere in forty
volumes (the latter an allusion to the forty volumes
of the Percy Anecdotes) is another good title ; so
is Annual Parliaments, a Plan for Short Commons.
Michau on Ball Practice is an allusion to my old
dancing mistress, Madame Michau, who was widely
21

322 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

known in the thirties of the last century, Debrett
on Chain Piers, Shelley's Conchologist, and Ude's
Tables of Interest, all aUude to well-known men.
M. Ude was a famous French cook in the royal
household, who afterwards was engaged by Mr.
Crockford,for his celebrated Temple of Chance in
St. James' Street. Perhaps the best of aU is
Chronological Account of the Date Tree, but Memoirs
of Mrs. Mountain, by Ben Lomond, and Boyle on
Steam, run it close. Mrs. Mountain, it should be
mentioned, was a celebrated singer who died in 1841.

At my Hampshire home we used to make a
particular feature of decorating the dinner-table
with flowers after a fashion which is seldom, if ever,
seen now. One or two of our gardeners were great
experts in the art of producing designs formed of
flowers and leaves, and when people were stajdng with
us, an hour or two before dinner these men would
set to work and convert the table into a verit-
able floral carpet. The effect they produced was
often quite beautiful, being chiefly composed of
elaborate tracery, often formed of petals and the
like, though, of course, far more artificial than that
conveyed by the modern fashion of flowers with long
stalks in bowls and vases.

With regard to dinners, within recent years a
considerable change has taken place as to the
number of dishes. Formerly a constant subject
of complaint with regard to dinner-parties was
that there were too many courses, but if things go
on as they have been going of late, guests will soon
begin to complain that they have had no dinner at

DINNERS BUT IN NAME 323

all, the fashionable modern tendency being to give
a very light entree in the place of a joint, which
now seldom figures on a menu. This, and
another entree, soup, a little fish, and a very
light sweet, seem considered sufficient dinner for
even a large party, and those guests who may
not care for the entrees practically get nothing
to eat at all. In addition to this, everything is
served at such lightning speed that it is as much
as one can do to swallow the few mouthfuls called
dinner before one's plate has been snatched away.
The whole system of these hurried modern meals is
uncomfortable and unhealthy.

Fashion in dogs, as in most things, has undergone
many changes within my experience. Formerly
comparatively little attention was devoted to the
breeds so popular to-day, which had not then been
brought to an3/thing like their present perfection.
Many people were quite content with clever little
mongrels, though a breed of very small black dogs
belonging, I think, to the great family of terriers,
were favourite pets with ladies thirty or forty
years ago. A number of men, strongly suspected
of being dog-stealers when opportunity occurred,
used to frequent Rotten Row, offering little mons-
trosities of this kind for sale. Many of these small
rats (for they were little else) were of mixed breed.
They were rather tiresome and mischievous
creatures, much given to eating up anything which
came in their way, from a ball of worsted to a box
of chocolates. Personally, though I have never
been without a dog as a pet, I have never bought

324 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

one in my life, having always had the offer of more
than I was able to accept from my friends.

The Pomeranians, which people are so fond of
now, were not in much request in past days, whilst,
as far as I recollect, the French bulldog was
unknown.. Amongst the dogs I have had I was
particularly fond of several lion dogs, or Pekinese
spaniels, given me by the late Duke of Richmond,
who used to breed them at Goodwood.

The lion dogs, I believe, originated from a cross
between the King Charles and a Chinese species
— ^they are generally something of the colour of
a Chow and possess great hunting instincts,
though I have never heard of one catching any-
thing. Nevertheless, they will roam about all day
perfectly happy, engaged upon what is surely the
most bloodless and inoffensive form of sport.
These dogs have very powerful paws, and when
necessity arises can jump from great heights with
extreme safety and ease.

The Duke of Richmond, I believe, was the first
to introduce the Pekinese into England, having
bred from some sent to him by a cousin from
China. To-day there are many breeders — Lady
Algernon Gordon Lennox, Lady Decies, Mrs.
Douglas Murray, and several other ladies being
noted for the perfection of their dogs. Mr. Charles
Davis, not content at being an expert in questions
of art, at one time also became a highly successful
breeder of these beautiftil little animals. Though
he never kept many of these dogs, he had the great
good fortune to breed an extraordinarily fine one

PEKINESE DOGS 325

called Kia-mien, for which he was once offered no
less than ;f6oo. He preferred, however, to keep his
pet, which died only a few years ago. I have often
envied him the possession of the lovely little
Pekinese, which I have seen luxuriously curled up
before his fire, according perfectly with the priceless
objets d'art, when I have gone to have a pleasant
chat with this most cultured and agreeable con-
noisseur of art.

It may interest some to know what the chief
points of a Pekinese should be. They are —

Lion-shaped body.

Flat skull, and large eyes— very wide between.

Black mask and jet-black nose, which must be
very short.

Long feathering on the ears and feet.

Short bowed front legs and broad chest.

Long bushy tail, turned over on to the back.

The usual weight of the Pekinese dog is about
8 to 10 lb., but some weigh as much as 16 lb.,
while others only weigh 4I lb., and then there is
what is called the sleeve specimen, which weighs
considerably under 4I lb., but these are very rarely
met with.

The colours most admired at the present day
are dark chestnut, sable, golden red, and black.
There are also many other colours, such as biscuit,
black and tan, black and white, brindle, chocolate,
and liver.

A dog which now seems completely to have dis-
appeared is the " Plum Pudding " variety, so many of
which used to be seen running under carriages.

326 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

These have now long vanished with the splendid
coaches, powdered coachmen and footmen in
gorgeous liveries, who were such features of the
West End in the days before bowler hats and cloth
caps had carried ever5rthing before them.

People of other days had far fewer amusements
than is now the case, and were often very embar-
rassed as to how to amuse distinguished visitors.

When Ibrahim Pasha was in England in the
late fifties of the last century, every effort was made
to make his time pass pleasantly. Amongst other
things, he was taken to see a cricket match at
Lord's. After staring weariedly for the space of
two hours at the strenuous exertions of the picked
players of England, he at length, in despair, sent
a message to the captains of the elevens, that he
did not wish to hurry them, but that when they
were tired of running about he would be much
obliged to them if they would begin their game.

In old days it was the custom at the proper
season for people to go and eat strawberries in
the market gardens, which then were quite easily
accessible from London. I frequently went.
Hammersmith not so very long ago, as is well
known, was noted for its strawberries and early
fruit, which the market gardeners of the locaUty
made a point of producing.

That old-world flower the fuchsia, which used
to be prominent in every cottage garden, was,
it is said, first introduced into EngHsh gardens
from Hammersmith, at the close of the eighteenth
century, when some nursery gardeners called

ENGLISH BURGUNDY 327

Lee were celebrated for the flowers which they
grew. The nursery garden of the Lees had once
been a vineyard, from the grapes of which tradition
asserted that large quantities of Burgundy were
made. In view, however, of the somewhat in-
different success which has attended modern at-
tempts to make wine from Enghsh-grown grapes,
one cannot help speculating as to who can have
cared to drink this Hammersmith Burgundy,
especially as I believe the nearest approach to
any successful manufacture of English wine has
been in the direction of light-coloured brands.
In all probability this so-called Burgundy con-
tained other ingredients besides grapes, and was
compounded of various mixtures such as went
to the making of the home-made wines, cowslip,
ginger, currant, and the like. Wine made from
beetroot was occasionally passed off upon unsuspect-
ing people, not used to French wines, as claret, and
a wine made from mangel-wurzels used to be
highly appreciated by English villagers, who de-
clared that its taste reminded them of sherry.

In the eighteenth century a Mr. Warner, who
had studied the history of the Enghsh vineyards
cultivated by the monks, made an attempt to
grow grapes for wine at Rotherhithe. He chose
Burgundy grapes, because he had observed that
they ripen early, and planted his vines as standards.
It is said that he occasionally made as much as a
hundred gallons of wine in a season, but history
is silent as to whether anyone Uked drinking it !

Horse-drawn carriages are now disappearing.

328 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

The first and original brougham, it may be added,
built for the Lord Chancellor of that name, after
whom the carriage is called, stiU existed some
years ago, and probably exists to-day. The pro-
perty of Lord Bathurst, it was exhibited during
the coaching exhibition which was held at the
defunct Westminster Aquarium. The brougham
was finished and dehvered to the clebrated Lord
Brougham upon May 15th, 1838.

Amongst the changes of the last sixty years,
that in the uniform of our soldiers is especially
conspicuous. The old coatee with epaulettes,
which they formerly wore, survives only in the
dress of such corps as the Gentlemen-at-Arms,
the Royal Scottish Archers, the officers of the
Yeomen of the Guard, the City Marshal, and in
a few other instances, such as the Lord and Deputy
Lieutenants, who, after being for some years
doomed to wear the modern tunic, were once more
accorded their old costume by the late King.
The sight of the Guards in coatees would seem
surprising to the present generation, yet, up to
about 1855, they, and all the British Infantry,
wore them, whilst the Guards also donned white
trousers in summer. At the same period policemen
and postmen both wore top hats, whilst some of
the early volunteers were wonderfully equipped.
I wonder if anyone remembers the " six foot guards,"
as some specially tall volunteers were called ?

The early days of the volunteer movement
excited great enthusiasm. The force in question
served a very good purpose in its day, although

THE VOLUNTEERS 329

it has been described as having been born in a
panic, nursed in neglect, and developed in its
maturity into a mihtary monstrosity.

The old volunteers, though occasionally sub-
jected to ridicule, if perhaps scarcely efficient, were
thoroughly patriotic. They went long marches
(principally, it was jokingly said) by train, attended
the meetings at Wimbledon and the Easter Monday
volunteer reviews. Whilst perhaps of no very
great value from a military point of view, it should
not be forgotten that in their day they were
utihsed for some really useful purposes, such as the
protection of armouries during a Fenian scare. ^

A great pillar of the volunteer movement,
Lord Wemyss, still survives. The years have
passed lightly over the dignified figure of this
"great gentleman," for whom I entertain the very
highest respect as the beau-ideal of what an Enghsh
peer should be. His wife, also a friend of mine
like her husband, is a clever and charming
woman.

In old days people were somewhat mistrustful
of the post. Some made a point of posting their
own letters, for greater safety they thought. Such
a one, a susceptible gentleman, who had written
a letter to a lady with whom he had fallen in love,
determined to do this, thinking the missive too
precious to be entrusted to a servant. Strolling
out of his club he walked leisurely along in the
hopes of finding a pillar or letter-box, musing on
his love, in the course of which meditation he
unconsciously dropped the precious document into

330 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

a solicitor's box near the Strand, In the hurry
of the moment the letter was opened, and, greatly
to the surprise of the man of law, it was found
to contain a great deal of what this worthy indi-
vidual termed " balderdash ! " The letter was at
once returned to its writer, with this laconic remark,
" Love, not law. Further communications to be
addressed to the Divorce Court." This untoward
event reminds one of a story told of a country
letter-carrier, who, to his avocation of postman,
combined that of an accoucheur, and upon whose
cards appeared the following eccentric information :
" Letters and Ladies safely delivered ! "

Perforated postage stamps first appeared in the
early fifties of the last century — as a matter of fact,
I believe, 1853 was the exact year. The process
of perforation was invented by a Mr. Archer, whose
patent was acquired by Government for £4000.
A claim to having originated a device for easily
separating postage stamps has also been made
for a Mr. Wilkinson of Yarmouth, but in any case
it was Mr. Archer's machine which, on the recom-
mendation of a Select Committee of the House
of Commons, was taken into use by the Post
Office. As late as 1854 unperforated penny
stamps were still in use — ^the remains of the old
stock.

It is difficult in these days to realise that
photography was only brought to perfection in
comparatively recent years. In the fifties a suc-
cessful portrait depended entirely upon the action
of the sun. The following illustrates this —

AN OLD LETTER 331

Science and Art Department

South Kensington, London, W.
igiA day of December 1859
Dear Lady Dorothy, — Upon inquiry I find
that the Sun has not done sufficient justice to
portraits of Mr. Redgrave and myself to justify
us in sending a copy of his performance.

When he resumes his operations, we shall be
very pleased to be placed in your gallery, and
will endeavour to have justice done to Nature's
hand5Avork.

Pray remember me to Mr. Nevill, and believe
me, always faithfully yours, Henry Cole

In the old days, when the children of a landed
proprietor married, there was always a concourse
of mounted tenantry to greet them on their return
home after the honeymoon. After my marriage to
Mr. Nevill we passed some days at Burnham
Thorpe, after which we returned to my father's
house. The following was written by my dear
governess a day or two before our return —

Wolterton, Wednesday
My Dearest Dorothy, — Don't think it un-
gracious if we beg of you to defer your return one
day, and not to come untU Friday ; as the tenants,
imagining your return was to be on that day, had
prepared to meet you at Itteringham and escort
you home, and it would be so great a disappoint-
ment to them and they cannot be ready before.
Lord Orford, though pleased with the attention

332 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

proposed for his darling, is sorry to lose one day
of your company, but he gives it up to please
others. Pray be at the Walpole Arms, Itteringham,
or near, about half-past two on Friday ; you will
come of course in your brougham, and we hope
the day will be propitious as before. There will be
a tenants' and servants' ball in the evening. I
was quite sorry to find that by a mistake in the
letter-box, a letter I wrote to you did not go until
several days after it was written. It was not
worth sending, but that I could not bear you
should think I had been so remiss as not to send
you one word of affectionate remembrance when,
in reality, I never for five minutes forget my
darling, and in the midst of storms rejoice that
you have found a haven of rest. The cart leaves
here this afternoon ; will you send as much luggage
as you can spare by it to-morrow. If you are
not able to get to Walsingham, Lord O. says you
can easily manage to visit it from Wolterton,
and that it would be a pleasant excursion for the
whole party here to join you in on a fine day —
such as this for example. It is much feared that
the Wests must leave us on Saturday, but it is
not quite a settled thing. You will hear of all
the events small and great when you return. Till
then and for ever, God bless you, dearest. With
best love from all here to you and Mr. Nevill. —
Believe me, ever your most affectionate,

Elizabeth Redgrave
Remember half -past two on Friday.

BLUE COATS AND BRASS BUTTONS 333

The last survivor of the Wests mentioned above
is my cousin, Sir Algernon West. Sir Henry
Drummond- Wolff, then quite a boy I remember,
was also at Wolterton at this time, where he was
much given to playing jokes. Throughout his life
he was of a very lively disposition.

The postilions with their quaint blue jackets,
with nosegays at the breast, and smart white beaver
hats, have now long ceased to figure at weddings.
I fancy, however, that the custom of throwing an
old shoe after the happy couple still continues.
This, it is said, originated from an occurrence at the
marriage of John ChurchiU, the great Duke of
Marlborough, who was assailed on his wedding day
by an angry aunt, who threw her old shppers at him.
His great good fortune was by some attributed to
this, which caused the custom to be generally
adopted. Whether there is any historical founda-
tion for this fanciful explanation I am unable to
say.

As late as the fifties quite a number of peers wore
blue coats and brass buttons. Lord Redesdale, for
instance, wore a swallow-tailed blue coat with brass
buttons, a white neck- tie, and shoes tied with a bow of
black silk ribbon. Nobody ever saw him in any other
suit except at a levee. On the whole there has been
comparatively httle change in gentlemen's dress
during the last half-century, though, of course,
minor variations have been frequent. Not so very
many years ago quite a number of men wore white
duck trousers with a frock-coat in summer. The
ducks seem now to have totally disappeared, whilst

334 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

I fear the frock-coat is in a fair way to follow them.
The hideous, though convenient, cloth cap is a quite
modern invention, as was the dinner jacket, which
appears after a hard fight to have been conquered
by the old swallow-tailed evening coat, which was
probably /lever so firmly established in public
favour as it is to-day. The top hat, though threat-
ened, still holds its own. A great change has taken
place in the shape of this headgear since the sixties,
when it was far higher than it is now, and thoroughly
deserved the appellation of " stove-pipe," which the
Americans, I believe, still call it. During the sixties
there was a craze amongst men for large and loud
checks and plaids. Some people carried this to a
great extreme.

Lord Brougham, for instance, was noted for his
shepherd's plaid trousers. It was said that once,
when he was at Edinburgh canvassing the electors,
a manufacturer of the neighbourhood presented him
with a large roll of a new design of tartan which he
had brought out. It was a piece of some twenty or
thirty yards. His lordship had it all made up into
trousers, and wore them ever after. People declared
that he had been heard to say that he had pairs
enough left to last him his hfetime.

The modern tendency would appear to be to
suppress all eccentricity of colour or cut in man's
dress. In fact, the whole object of a well-dressed
gentleman is now to escape notice by the unobtrusive
nature of his well-cut clothes. This was not always
the case in the past, when West End tailors permitted
themselves various extravagances.

THE SHAWL 335

It was the confusion and interchange of hats on
leaving parties (not always accidental) that led to the
fashion, now obsolete, of carrying opera hats in the
hand when entering the room.

A story used to be told of a gentleman who,
leaving a party about one in the morning, asked the
attendant to get him his hat. The man inquired the
description of hat. " A perfectly new one," was the
answer. " Ah ! " rejoined the other, shrugging his
shoulders, " your chance is hopeless. After eleven
o'clock we never have a decent hat left."

In the fifties the sleeves of men's coats began to
be made very full indeed. At last they became almost
gigot sleeves, which caused it to be said that the
" peg tops " (as the full trousers then fashionable
were called) were leaving the gentlemen's legs, and
taking shelter under their arms.

Woman's dress, of course, has varied very greatly
sincfe the days when the crinohne went out of
fashion. Within the last ten or fifteen years it has
become far more artistic, and a great deal of time,
thought, and money is now devoted to the designing
of costumes, which have, of course, enormously in-
creased in price.

One article of female dress, formerly highly
popular, has now completely disappeared. This is the
shawl, which, about forty-five years ago or so, was
in great favour with high and low. Many a young
lady spent the whole of her first quarter's allowance
in the purchase of a shawl. The Paris grisette and
the London dressmaker went to their work with a
little shawl pinned neatly at the waist. The lost

336 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

gin-drinker covered her rags with the remnant of
the shawl of better days. The peasant's daughter
bought a cotton shawl, with a gay border, for her
wedding ; and it was washed and dyed until, having
wrapped all her babies in it, it was finally dyed
black to signalise her widowhood.

The crinoline was an odious, hideous, and
dangerous affair. On one occasion I was as nearly
as possible burnt to death owing to one I was
wearing catching fire, and had I not had the presence
of mind to lie down and roU myself in the hearth-
rug, I should certainly have been burnt to death.
Even at the time when crinolines were in fashion,
it was generally admitted that they were monstrous
things, though some ladies defended them.

One of these, a silly woman, having archly
remarked that if crinolines had no other advan-
tage they at least kept men at a distance, added,
" That, at least, you will admit is a great blessing."
"To the men," growled an old bachelor who was
present. Feminine dress began almost imperceptibly
to inflate, as it were, until the change in the ten
years from 1851 to 1861 was almost as great and as
marked as in the palmy days of the hoop petticoat,
which were from 1700 to 1800.

So cumbersome and heavy did the distended
skirts become when the crinoline craze was at its
height, that an invention for mechanically raising
them was actually patented. The date of the
Patent, No. 158, was February 3rd, 1858, and the
specification was as follows : —

" Improved apparatus for raising and lowering

I.ADY DOROTHY NEVILL IN 1865

THE CRINOLINE 337

the skirts of ladies' dresses. This consists in the
use of a girdle, with cords united at one end in a
knot, whilst their other extremities are attached
to the garment. By drawing them up by hand
at the knot, the dress wiU be raised to the distance
required, uniformly all round. The cords are passed
over pulleys."

Owing to the amplitude of women's skirts, great
inconvenience was caused in churches, theatres, and
public places generally

A very embarrassing and somewhat amusing
instance of this once occurred at a fashionable
church. A gentleman sitting at the end of one
of the open seats had placed his hat upon the
ground, when his attention being directed to the
spot by the occupier of a seat opposite to him, he
discovered that his hat had suddenly vanished !
His consternation, which was great, was in no
way lessened by a whisper from his neighbour
that " the lady yonder has taken it away " ! The
" lady yonder " was a demoiselle attired in the
height of fashion and the fullest breadth of crino-
line, who was sweeping up the aisle to her accus-
tomed pew. "What! that lady taken my hat?
Impossible ! " But before verbal explanation could
be given, a sudden halt made by the fair one at
the entrance to the pew, a flutter of excitement,
and a shaking of the broad expanse of dress skirt,
made all manifest. The hat, over which the crino-
line had dropped en passant, and which had been
dragged, or swept, or carried, at the lady's heels,
was shaken off, the lady entered her pew suffused

22

338 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

with blushes, and the owner of the buffeted
hat had to make a grand tour up the aisle,
amidst the titters of several lookers-on, to regain
the sadly battered head - covering so strangely
spirited away.

Defenders of the crinohne enlisted aU sorts of
evidence to prove its advantages and beauty. A
great emporium which did a large trade in the
monstrosity drew support, indeed, from an unex-
pected quarter, and issued the following manifesto —
" The great art critic, Mr. Ruskin, has said that
the female dress of the present day is as near per-
fection as possible. Although we may wisely
remember that our ancestors probably thought the
same of garments which we now consider hideous,
it is difficult to look upon the costumes in the
picture before us without some feehngs of admira-
tion of the justness and propriety of his remarks.
The costumes of the men are exactly suited to
display their proportions, and leave them the
free use of their limbs ; whUst those of the
women continue the soft flowing lines of the
neck and bust in a graceful sweep, which is an
improvement on Hogarth's celebrated ' Une of
beauty.'

" Surely the author of the ' Enormous Abomina-
tion of the Hoop-Petticoat' would have found all
his shafts of ridicule or indignation fruitless as
against these present graceful articles of clothing.
His principal objections are at once removed;
the present hoop-petticoats in Kensington Gardens j
are guiltless of any ' creaking or rattling ' ; they

A CURIOUS PAMPHLET 339

at once resume their original shape if pressed out
of it, and do not ' sway ridicvilously from side to
side when the wearer walks.' If it were within our
province, we might dilate on the improvements
effected in the ' hoop,' not only in its external
appearance, but could perhaps weary, but certainly
astonish, our readers with an account of improve-
ments in its mechanical appHcation. Even now
we have before us an account of ' Gemma/ or
jewelled jupon (so-called, we presume, from some
poHshed rivets, to connect the steel bands, being
substituted for a band of metal). This jupon, with
aU its hangings complete, only weighs 14 oz. !
Surely this must be a boon to invalids and watering-
place belles ? The ' Sansflectum,' the ' Ondina,' or
waved jupon, have all their separate advantages,
and, no doubt, their individual advocates and
patronesses."

"Did the Vanessas, the Mary BeUingtons, the
Molly Lepels, wear pork-pie hats or sansflectum
skirts, which form such brilliant motes in this our
midsummer evening dream ? No ; the fact is too
plain. The extreme products of civUisatioh intrude
themselves upon us, and we awake to look upon
the excited iron age of England, and to be reminded
of its existence even in the dresses of England's
fairest daughters."

The last page of this pro-crinoUne tract is
occupied by descriptions beneath cuts of various
forms of dress distinctions, the cost of which varies
between ten and forty shillings. Most of these
have fanciful names, such as the " Gemma," the

340 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

" Sansflectum," or the patent " Ondina," or
" Waved J upon," which, an appended quotation
from a. newspaper of the day somewhat quaintly
says, " does away with the unsightly results of the
ordinary hoops, and so perfect are the wave-like
bands that a lady may ascend a steep stair^ lean
against a table, throw herself into an armchair,
pass to her stall at the opera, or occupy a fourth
seat in a carriage, without inconvenience to herself
or others, or provoking the rude remarks of the
observers, besides removing or modifying in an
important degree all those pecuUarities tending
to destroy the modesty of Englishwomen ; and,
lastly, it allows the dress to faU into graceful
folds."

Some ladies continued to wear the costume of
their youthful days weU into the seventies of the
last century. Such a one was Lady Charlotte
Lyster, a dear friend of the late Lord Rowton and
his sister. She entirely withdrew from the world
after the death of her husband, in whom she
was wrapped up to the exclusion of every other
thought. It was a curious, if somewhat pathetic
sight, to see her and Lady Forester — a great
friend — dressed in poke bonnets, crinolines, and
the widows' caps of thirty years before. Both
of these ladies refused to change a shred of their
old fashions.

Amongst old family letters I have found several
which are of interest as describing the life of a past
generation.

The following is an account of a visit to

LLANDRINDOD IN 1813 341

Wales in 1813, at which time Llandrindod seems
to have been a somewhat peculiar pleasure
resort —

Hardingstone

October the nth
My Dear Caroline, — ^Vade was so worn out
with the fatigue of preparing to quit Llandrindod
and travelling home by a circuit of 300 miles, that
he has hitherto been unable to dictate the sequel
of our history, but as such pleasant events are not
soon forgotten, I now write in continuation of the
subject : Our provisions (of which I think I have
yet said nothing), in point of quality, variety, and
cooking were not ill suited to our habitation ; of
Beef and Mutton (for veal and lamb it seems are
unknown in these regions), the former does not
attain the age of 2 years and being fed on the
common has much bone, little flesh, and no fat, and
the latter tho' of all ages, from an equal defect of
condition, has more the flavour of the goat than
the deer. Poultry of all kinds, there being no
buyers, is cheap, and when judiciously cooked, no
doubt good, but as this talent was not among the
numerous perfections of our hostess, it might,
when served up, be put on a footing with the Beef
and Mutton, being always burnt to a cinder or
boUed to a jelly ; in order to remedy this evil of
Mrs. Watkin's roasting, or rather toasting the meat,
for having no Jack, the spit was only occasionally
turned round. We once ventured to request
she would broil some steakes in the parlor, but

342 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

unfortunately, either never using, or at that time
not having a jiag, she substituted the natural
mouchoir instead of the artificial one, in the midst
of the process, which for ever deterred us from a
second experiment ; superadded to the flavor of
the mutton and beef, we for some time enjoyed
the addition of mustiness, it being usual in this
part of Wales to preserve meat from flies by closing
it up in a pan, as this evil was intolerable; the
meat, there being no other place, which freely
admitted air, was hung up at the entrance of the
house, the ceiling of which, being low, made it
necessary for those who entered to stoop lest it
should come in contact with their heads ; just
as this arrangement had taken place the weather
changed, which gave rise to fresh discoveries,
matts and scrapers not being among Mrs. Watkin's
list of furniture, the entry with the meat above
and the slippery dirt below, had now the air of a
slaughter house and the parlor from its condition
within, and the noise of the swine without, was
like a pig stye.

Picture to yourself our return from a walk
between the showers and finding each side of the
door ornamented with a child of the Landlady's
(who lately had twins), sitting in perforated chairs
and having to pass thro' such a vestibule, to such
a parlor, where, finding the fire at its last spark,
the servant girl makes her appearance with the
bottom of an old warming pan containing a few
small coals, and some turf, the effect of which fuel,
in conjunction, we found by experience would

A NATURAL SHOWER BATH 343

not burn, so that we should have had no fire unless
Vade had not obviated the evil by robbing the
hedges in our walks of all the rotten wood he could
find. During the dry weather our sleeping apart-
ment had often puzzled us by the capricious
appearance of the floor in respect to dirt and
cleanness, but the rain, which was very liberally
admitted by the dilapidated state of the roof, fully
explained the riddle and Vade is enclined to think
he might have saved himself the trouble of sending
for a shower bath, could he have depended upon
the continuation of weather, so favourable to the
purpose. Just before our leaving this earthly
paradise, we were much alarmed (as the same
complaint prevails here which does in Scotland,
and from the same cause), on account of an irrup-
tion which appeared upon Vade attended with
pain and irritation, but fortunately it turned out
to be nothing more than the bite of the harvest
bugs, which he thinks he must have got among his
cloaths in the stable, that being the place in which
William performed the Office of Groom of the bath.
In Wales, as well as England, they have base coin
and dirty notes ; I enclose you a specimen of each,
the former you may thro' into the fire, and the
latter, tho' I believe it is genuine, we could not
pass on account of its being from North Wales ;
the value is not great, viz. los., but if Mr. Jones
could forward it in a frank, to any acquaintance
who lives in those parts and get it changed, it will
be better than its remaining useless in Vade's
pocket book.

344 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Mrs. Mercier's note you will be so kind as to
forward. We hope Lord A. and Lady Harriet are
well. — Yours affectionately,

M. R. Vade

The Honourable John NevUl (who, as an officer
of the 23f d Royal Welsh Fusiliers, fought in the
Peninsula, where he was wounded) after his return
to England became a clergyman. In the course of
time, it may be mentioned, he succeeded to the
Earldom of Abergavenny. The following is a letter
from him written to his sister Harriett (mentioned
in Mr. Vade's letter) when he was setting out for
the wars —

Chichester
November 22nd, 1807
My Dearest Harriet, — A thousand thanks to
you for your very kind letter which I got on my
arrival here yesterday from Arundel. We march
to-morrow to Portsmouth, 18 miles, we don't know
wether they will send us on board as soon as we
get there, which they generally do, not having room
for many soldiers in the town, or else they send you
into Barracks made on purpose for troops going
to embark, untill the second division comes up,
which will be on Wednesday. We are still ignorant
what part of Ireland we are going to but first we
think to Cork and then proceed to Barracks in the
country. You may depend my dear Harriet that
you shall hear from me the moment I land, if it
should please God to let me, but don't be dis-

OFF TO THE PENINSULA 345

appointed if you don't receive a letter so soon
as you could wish, as the wind, and a thousand
different things may prevent you receiving it. I
tell you this that you may not think that anything
has happened. I am afraid that I shall be sick,
but a soldier must not mind that, as he must some
time or other go to sea and the sooner I get used to
it the better, now that I am eager for the profession.
This place is completely fiUed with Military,
marching in all directions. The 89th, General Witt-
loch's, 31st, 73rd, German Legion, 2nd Dragoon
Guards, and the 25th, are aU here this day — there
is nothing but quarrelling with them. It rains here
very hard. We are lucky in having this a halting
day. I am afraid you wUl have a bad journey to
Eridge. I hope that the Medicine that Dr. Arnold
has prescribed will be of service to you and that
when I come home I may be permitted to see you
all and that I may find you quite recovered and
enjoying better health.

I have wrote to my father to-day, whom I hope
is quite well, and also my Aunt and Uncle to whom
please to give my most affectionate love to them,
and please to tell them how very grateful I am for
the affectionate love and kindness they have shown
me, which I shall never forget. Give my love to
Nan and Reginald,^ whom I hope are quite well,
and tell Harry that I think of him very often and
that he must grow very fast and be a good boy and
then I will give him a Commission in my Regiment
when I get one, that's to say. You shall hear from

^ Mr. Reginald Nevill, my husband.

346 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

me at Portsmouth if I have time. You had better
not write if you do not get it by Wednesday or
Thursday at Portsmouth as we shall sail by that
time at farthest.

As I have no more to say and in a hurry as usual,
I must conclude with wishing God may give you
health, hajJpiness and every blessing and with best
love to yourself and all friends at Eridge, not
forgetting Mrs. Morgan, who I hope are quite weU. —
Believe me to be your ever affectionate brother,

J. Nevill

God bless you Harriet. Like an ass I forgot
to put this letter in father's.

The following is a good specimen of a school-
master's letter in the early nineteenth century. It
was written to my mother-in-law, the Honourable
Mrs. George Nevill, about my husband's brother
Henry, cousin of Lieutenant John Nevill.

Richmond
October 5th, 1822

Madam, — After I wrote to you about Mr. Henry's
foot, the Surgeon adopted a different mode of
treatment, which appeared to answer so well, that I
thought it unnecessary to take him to Town.

I entertain the highest opinion of the disposition
and principles of my Young Friend, and am quite
certain that had he been induced at the commence-
ment of his Education to be attentive and correct
in what he had to learn, his abiUties would have

TUTOR AND PUPIL 347

enabled him to make very considerable attainments,
notwithstanding the then state of his health. He is
at present perfectly aware that considerable exertion
wiU still be necessary to enable him to take his
Degree at the University with respectabihty, and
perhaps that impression may prove the best pre-
ventative against the effects of that disposition to
yield to imaginary difficulties, from which my
anxiety on his account solely arises.

Should the facility of his Disposition lead him
into an occasional error, I am satisfied that his good
understanding and right feelings wiU show him his
fault, and protect him from a repetition of it. Much,
however, must depend upon a choice of associates,
and I am happy to say, that he has at least
hstened attentively to what I have urged upon
that subject.

I flatter myself that the dissolution of our
relation as Tutor and Pupil, will not affect our
friendly feelings towards each other — which on my
part, I can very sincerely affirm amount to affection-
ate esteem.

Mrs. Gream desires I wiU assure you that she
wiU ever retain an affectionate recollection of our
Young Friend, and that she wiU never forget his
uniformly attentive and respectful conduct towards
her — and that his departure is regretted by every
member of our family. -

I cannot conclude without offering to you my
most sincere thanks for the kindness with which you
have continually treated me, and for the support you
have uniformly given to my authority with my

348 UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Pupil, without which my efforts must have been
unavailing.

Mrs. Gream unites with me in respectful Compli-
ments to Lord Abergavenny, Lady Harriet and Mr.
NeviU, and I remain, with great truth. — Madam,
your obliged and Obedient Servant,

Robert Gream

And now the time has come to bring these stray
notes to an end. They were begun under one reign
and finished under another, for during the last few
months our beloved King Edward has passed away.
From him, as from his best of Queens, I received
much kindness, and his death therefore was in my
case a personal, as well as a national, loss.

Born in the reign of " the first gentleman in
Europe," I have lived to see five monarchs on the
EngUsh throne. The reign of George the Fourth I
scarcely remember, for I was a mere child at the
time, but I perfectly recall how scandalized we aU
were when on the death of the sailor king —
William iv — my father, who, as I have before said,
was extremely unconventional, made little change
in his dress and continued to wear light-coloured
pantaloons. These, however, in London, very
much to our relief, were more or less concealed by
the rug over his knees when he went out in his
favourite conveyance — a cabriolet.

To-day yet another "Sailor King" sits upon
the throne of England.

May all prosperity and health ever be the lot of
our new Monarch and of his charming and gifted

FAREWELL 349

Queen whom, in former days, it was my privilege to
know as Princess May.

To the indulgent reader I will bid farewell by
paraphrasing the words of Mr. Gream on a pre-
ceding page, and offer to him my most sincere
thanks for the kindness with which he has con-
tinually treated me, and for the support without
which my efforts must have been unavailing.

INDEX

Abergavenny, Henry, Earl of, 21,
22, 23 ; the Marquis of, 93, 305

Adelphi, the old, 265

Ailesbury, Maria Marchioness of,
166, 167

Alexandra, Queen, 348

Alvanley, Lord, 26, 27

Amherst, Lord (of Hackney), 2

Arnold, Matthew, 151, 253

Ashbrook, Lord, 49

Asquith, Mr., 220

Astarte, by Lord Lovelace, 251

Athelhampton Hall, 13

Atkyns, Mrs., 117, 119-123

Auber, the composer, 278

d'AzegUo, the Marquis, 296

Balfour, Mr., 14 ; Lady Betty, 243

Bancroft, Sir Squire and Lady,
263, 264

Barry, the architect, 66

Basevi, Mr., grandfather of Lord
Beaconsfield, 84

Bathurst, Lady, 186

Beaconsfield, Lord, 28 (anecdote),
84, 151, 187, 217 ; recollections
and letters, 220-229

Bedford, Duke of, resentful atti-
tude of Liberal politicians con-
cerning, 207

Bedford, Paul, the comedian, 265

Behrens, Mr., his collection of
English coloured prints, 282-
285

Bill-heads, old, 286

Bismarck, Prince, 197 ; his
favourite flower, 228

Black sheep, vagaries of some

belonging to authoress, 127, 128
Book titles, sham, at Chatsworth,

321, 322
Bordeaux, Due de, 60
Boughton, Mr., the painter, 301
Boulanger, General, 157, 246
Bradford, Lord and Lady, 184
Bright, Mr. John, 213 ; letter

from, 214
Brougham, Lord, 6, 34
Bruges, letter concerning, 188
Brydges Willyams, Mrs., the great

admirer of Lord Beaconsfield,

227
Brymer, Mr., 3
Buckner, the artist, draws portrait

of authoress, 70
Burdett, Sir Francis, 26
Burghclere, Lord and Lady, 187
Burns, Mr. John, 234
Bsrron, Lord, anecdote of, 252

Cadogaji, George, letter from, 74,

149. 150

Cambridge, Duke of, letters from,
205, 206, 263 ; his marriage,
262

Cape Colony, letter from, 115-118

Cardigan, Lady, and her Recollec-
tions, 163-166

Card well, Mr., 16

CarUngford, Lord, his flying
machine, 312

Cart, the last carrier's, in Sussex,

137
Chairs, French tapestry, ^

352

UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Chamberlain, Mr. Joseph, letters,
etc., 206-212 ; his son Neville,

212

Chamberlain, Mrs. Joseph, 209,
243

Changes in daily hfe, 311-321

Chatterton, Colonel, 9

Chesterfield, Lady, the late, 94,
187 ; letter flpm, 210

Chicken-fatting in Sussex, 133-
136

Choate, Mr. Joseph, 182

Churchill, Mr. Winston, 26

Churston, Lord, his ultra-scrupu-
lous views, 141

Clanricarde, Marquis of, a fine
judge of art, 288-290

Cleveland, Duchess of, 168

Cleveland, Duchesses of, three alive
at same time, 167

Clinton and Trefusis, Baroness, i, 3

Coaches, Magnet and Weymouth
Union, 8 ; the Derby Dilly, 35

Coates, Major, 282, 285

Cobden, Richard, 84 ; letters
from, 90, 91, 118

Collectors and collecting, anec-
dotes, etc., 280-305

Cotillons, famous leaders of, 277

Coutts, Baroness Burdett-, 152

Craven, Lady Mary, 151

Crinoline, the, 330-340

Criswell, 3

Dangstein (Hampshire home of

authoress), 82, 107
Darwin, Charles, letters, etc.,

106-112
Darwin, Mrs., her ideas as to the

amusements of " society," 106
Davis, Mr. Charles, art expert and

successful breeder of Pekinese

dogs, 324, 325
Day, Mr. Justice, anecdotes of,

293. 294
Demidofi, Prince, amusing anec-
dote of, 56, 57 ;

Devonshire, Duke of, the fourth,

anecdote of, 39, 40
Dibbs, the late Sir George, 234 ;

letter from, 234-236
D'IsraeU Koad, objection of a

resident to its name, 221,

222.

Dogs, fashion in, 323-325
Dorchester, Lady, 250
D'Orsay, Count, 74 (note)
Douro, Lady, 194
Dover Pier, anecdote concerning

building of, 125
Dowbiggin, a famous upholsterer,

I
Doyle, Richard, the artist, 95, 96
Dragoons, 9
Drummond - Wolfi, the late Sir

Henry, 198-200
Duberly, Hon. Mrs., 185
Dufierin, the late Lord, 247,

248
Duke, the Iron, 194-196
Duncombe, Lady Caroline, the

authoress meets her after sixty-
five years, 186
Durham, Archdeacon of, 184
Dwarkanauth Tagore, 74
Dyke, Sir William Hart, 132
Dykes, Luck of the, a romantic

relic, 133

Earle, Mrs., her work in popularis-
ing gardens, 80

Edward vii, 348

Elwin, Mr., a Haslemere character,
139

Eridge, 23, 226, 306

Favourite floral emblems of great

men, 228
Fisher, Mr., the late, a studious

collector, 292, ; his son, 293
Flatz, painter, his studio, 69
Florence, 53-59
Forster, the late Mr., anecdote,

21Z

lIMJUilA

353

Frampton, 4
Franking letters, 94
Froude, Mr., 254

Gallifet, General, 157-160 ; letters,

346
Gardening, 79, 80
Garth, General, 1
Gaynes Hall, 185
George iii, i
George iv, 348
George v, 348
Gladstone, Mr., 14, 215, 216, 217,

219, 234, 235
Glenesk, Lord, 184, 185
Gospel ships, 126
Gosse, Mr. Edmund, 104
Grant, Sir Colquhoun, 4
Grefiulhe, Madame, 246
Guest, the late Mr. Montagu,

281, 282

Haliburton, Lady, 176

Halifax, Lord, 78

Harcourt, Sir William, 16 ; anec-
dote of, 77, 78

Hardy, Mr., the author, 11

Harrington, Lord, his eccentric
costume, 150

Harrison, Mr. Austin, 187

Harrison, Mr. Frederic, 187

Haslemere, 138, 139

Helton, 3

Heathfield Park, 130

Henniker, Miss Helen, 170 ; her
sister Miss Mary, 171

Hepworth Dixon, Mr., 238

Hooker, Sir Joseph, letters from,
98-102

Hornet, The, a satirical paper,

307
Houghton GaUery, 3
Houses of Parliament, origin of

design for, 66
Howard, Mr. Kenneth, 170
Howard Paul, Mr. and Mrs., 269
Howards of Corby Castle, 62
23

Hudson, Mrs., wife of the railway
Idng, her trenchant remark,
148

Hughenden, 225, 227

Iddesleigh, Lord, 205
Ilsington, i, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 13
Image-men, Italian, 303
Irving, Sir Henry, letter from,
264

James, Lord, 183, 184, 213
Jasmine, the cult of, 41, 42
Jemingham, Mr. Charles Edward,

author and collector, anecdote,

298, 299

Ker, Mr. BeUendon, 6
Keyser the painter, his studio,
66-68.

Langtry, Mrs., her dSbut, 275

Lawrence, the Hon. Charles, 177

Lennox, Lord Henry, 89

London Museum, the need for a,
285.

Lords, the House of, 27-33

Loma Doone, 259

l/ovelace, the late Lord, 251,
232

Lowe, Mr. (Lord Sherbrooke),
anecdotes, letters, 229-233

LulUngstone Castle, 133

Luxury and its increase, 172-175

Lyte, Mr., author of " Abide
with me," 85

Lytton, Lord, the first, 238

Lytton, Lord, the second, recollec-
tions of and letters, 192, 239-247

Macdonald the sculptor, his studio
at Rome, 70

Manning, Cardinal, 84-86

Mario, Signor, the singer, anec-
dote, 277, 278

Mary, Queen, Princess May, 349

Massa, the Cavaliere, 69

354

UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Hatches, the inventor of lucifer,

313

Majrfield, convent at, 138
M'Carthy, Mr. Justin, 287 ^

Melbourne, interesting letter from,

ixS-122
Men's dress, changes in, 333-335
Menus, collection of, 309
Mexborough, the fourth Earl, 217 ;

fifth Earl, 31 »
Michel, Sir John, 6
Midhurst, the stocks at, S3
Milbanke, Mr. Mark, a clever

portait painter, 305
Montagu, Miss Olga, 186
Montgomery, Mr. Alfred, 57, 169
Mormons in Sussex, 129
Morris, the late Lord, 1S3
Murchison, Sir Roderick, 102-104

NaundorfE, the pretender, theory
as to his identity, 123

NeviU, Lady Dorothy (the author-
ess), childhood, i-ii ; travels
abroad, 38-78 ; her views on
modern society, 140-147

Nevill, Hon. George, 93

Nevill, letter from Hon. John,
written before setting out for
the Peninsula (1807), 344-346

Nevill, Mr. Reginald (husband of
authoress), 37, 79, 81, 345

Norfolk, Thomas Mowbray, Duke
of, 61

Orchids, 105

Orford, the eccentric Lord, 3 ; the

late Lord, 225, 257
Osborne,! Mr. Bemal, 152, 154,

220, 280
Ouida, recollections of and letters,

256-260
Overbeck, a German painter, 68
Owen, Professor, letters from,

96-98

" Paddy Green," 280

PaJmerston, Lord, scandalous re-
port as to, 91 ; a diplomat's
opinion of, 92

Paris, the Comte de, 156

Pamell and the Times, 243, 244,
245 ; souvenirs of, 287

Patti, Madame Adelina, her
marriage, 275, 276

Peers, the descent of a number,
27

Pigott, 243

Pigs, Sussex (pottery), descrip-
tion of, 126, 127

Polka, when first danCed in
London, 310, 311

Pollard, Mr., the " best judge of
prints in London," 281, 282

Pollington, Lady (sister of the
authoress), 310, 311

Ponsonby, the late Mr. Gerald,
a collector, 286, 287

Pope, the, 75

Post-boy, tiie last, 34

Poyntz (tapestry maker), 2

Prince Imperial, 287

Puddletown, 3

Puddletown Church, 12

Ramsay, General, 72, 74
Rawdon Browne, Mr., 61
Rawlinson, the late Sir Henry,

197
Redgrave, Miss, 49 ; letter from,

331. 332
Renan, M., 254 ; poem'quoted by,

2SS. 256
Restoration of Churches, 10,

II, 12
Roberts, Lord, 197
Rogate Church, 82
Rothschild, Mr. Alfred, 294; the

late Baron Ferdinand, 294 ;

Miss Alice, 294 ; anecdote of

Baron James, 155
Rome, 69-78

Rousby, Mrs., the actress, 274
Russell, Mr. George, 176, 177

INDEX

355

Russell of Killowen, Lord, i8o-

182
Russia, a letter from, 249

Sala, G. A., letter from, 261
Salisbury, the late Lord, letter

from Lord Lytton about, 245,

246
Salting, the late Mr. George,

290, 291
Sand, George, 93 ; her strategem

at a bazaar, 153
Sandhurst, Lady, 254
Saxe- Weimar, Hereditary Prince,

his queer notions about English

officers, 197
Schneider, Mdlle., " La Grande

Duchesse," 270
Schoolmaster, quaint letter from,

written in 1822, 346-347
Shaw, Sir Eyre, 153
Shawl, former vogue enjoyed by

the, 335, 336
" Smart set," the, 142-145
Smee, Mr., his garden, 79
Society, 140-171
Sontag, Madame, tribute to her

memory, 278, 279
Sothem tiie actor, 273
Soyer, Alexis, the famous chef,

and his artistic tastes, 302, 303
Spiritual Wives, by Hepworth

Dixon, 238
St. Heliers, Lady, 177, 178
St. Heliers, Lord, 177
Strachan, Lady, her villa, 62, 63
Sussex, its charm and old-world

industries, 113-139

Tailor, anecdote of a political, 16
Tapestry, curious, 2
Tenerani, sculptor, 70
Thackeray the novelist, 237
" The Common Lot " (poem), 57,

58
Theatrical productions and per-
sonages, recollections of ,262-279

Thiers, anecdote of Monsieur, 50,51

Thompson, Sir Henry, 187 ; letter
from, 188

Thompson, Sir Herbert, 187

Thorold Rogers, the late Pro-
fessor, 84

Tom Thumb, Genetal, anecdote
of, 3ig» 320.

Toole, the late Mr., 265

Torregiani, the Marquis, his
romantic story, 56

Tourist, anecdote of impudent
Scotch, 77

Trafalgar Square, ludicrous pro-
posal as to lions in, 303, 304

Travel, old-time, 34-38

Treves, Sir Frederick, 11

Turner, Mrs., her Caittionary
Stories, 5

Urquhart, Mr., the first intro-
ducer of Turkish baths, 318

Venables, Mr., 237
Venice, 59-62

Verona, strange funerals at, 53
Victoria, Queen, 174, 184, 262,
306

Wales, letter describing visit to

in 1813, 341-343
Walpole Arms, the, 2
Walpole, Colonel, 2
Walpole, Horace, 119 ; his opera

ticket, 281 ; Edward Atkyns,

119 ; Blayney Cadwallader,

119
Walpole, Lady, statue of, 71
Walpole, Miss Angel Ida, letter

from, 118-122 ; Lady Georg-

iana, 203, 204 ; Charlotte, 118
Walpole, Sir Robert, i, 116
VVard, Baron, his remarkable

history, 64, 65
Ward, Lord, afterwards Lord

Dudley, 165 ; Lady Cardigan's

story about, 166

356

UNDER FIVE REIGNS

Warren, Samuel, 93-95
Weardale, Lord, his artistic tastes

and graceful hospitality, 294
Wedding, a curious, 43
Weisbaden, letter from Mr. Lowe

concerning, 232, 233
Wellington, second Duke of, 189,

192 (anecdotes)
Wemyss, Lord and Lady, 329
White, Mr. Msntagu, 139
Wigan, Mr., 262
Wilberforce, Archdeacon, 88
Wilberforce, Bishop, 86, 87

William rv, 191

Wilson, Mr., his garden near

Weybridge, 79
Wines, EngUsh, 327
Wolfi, Dr., 200-204 ; anecdotes,

his diary, 201 ; Sir Henry, 198-

200
Wolseley, Lord, 196, 197
Wolterton, 2, 114

Zacchaea, Cardinal
Governor of Rome in the days
of Papal rule, 71, 74

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Fiction

29

The Novels of Alexandre Dumas.

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Act*.

The Advbhtukib of CArruir PAHraiLS.

Ahaurv.

The Bixd or Fatb.

The Black Tuur.

The Castle of Efpsteik

Catherine Blum.

CfiCILE.

The Chatelbt.

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volume.)

Chicot the Jestee.

The Comtb sb Momtcouekv

Conscience.

The Convict's Son.

The Cossican Bkotheks ; and Otho the
Archer.

Crop-Eares Jacquot.

DoM GORBHFLOT.

The Fatal Combat.

The Fehcihc Mastek.

Fbrnahse.

Gabriel Lahbbkt.

Georges.

The Great Massacre

Henri db Navabre.

HiL^HE DB ChaVEBNT.

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Padlihe ; Pascal Bbvho ; and Bohtbkob.

P&RB LA RuiNE.

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Sylvandibb.

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Tales of the Supernatvral.

Tales of Strange Advbntukk

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Twenty Ybabs Aftbb. (Double volume.)

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The Wolf-Leadbb.

Hethuen's Sixpenny Books.

Medium ivt.

Albanesl (B. Hapla). LOVE AND

LOUISA.
I KNOW A MAIDEN.
Anstey (F.). A BAYARD OF BENGAL.
Austen (J.). PRIDE AND PREJUDICE.

Baeot (Rlehapd). A ROMAN MYSTERY.
CASTING OF NETS.
DONNA DIANA.

Balfoup (Andrew). BY STROKE OF
SWORD.

Baplng-Gould IS.). FUR2E BLOOM.

CHEAP JACK ZITA.

KITTY ALONE.

URITH.

THE BROOM SQUIRE.

INiTHE ROAR OF THE SEA.

NOEMI.

A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. Illustrated.

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WINEFRED.

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THE QUEEN OF LOVE

Methukn and Company Limited

Clelg (Charles). BUNTER'S CRUISE.
GRIMM'S

30

ARMINKLI.

BLADYS OF THE STKWPONKY.

Barr (Robert). JENNIE BAXTER.
IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS.
THE COUNTESS TEKLA.
THE MUTABLE MANY.

Benson (E. F.). DODO.
THE VINTAGE,

Bronte (Charlotte). SHIRLEY.

Brownell (C. L.). THE HEART
JAPAN.

Burton (J. Bloundelle).

SALT SEAS.

OF

ACROSS THE

Cuttyn (Mrs.).

ANNE MAULEVERER.
THE LAKE OF

Capes (Bernard).

WINE.

Clifford (Mrs. W. K.). A FLASH OF

SUMMER.
MRS. KEITH'S CRIME.

Corbett (Julian). A
GREAT WATERS.

BUSINESS IN
ANGEL.

Croker (Mrs. B- M.).

A STATE SECRET.

PEGGY OF THE BARTONS.

JOHANNA.

Dante (Allehleri). THE DIVINE
COMEDY (Cary).

Doyle (A. Conan). ROUND THE RED
LAMP.

Dunean (Sara Jeannette). A VOYAGE

OF CONSOLATION.
THOSE DELIGHTFUL AMERICANS.

Eliot (George). THE MILL ON THE
FLOSS.

Findlater (Jane H.). THE GREEN
GRAVES 6f BALGOWRIE.

Gallon (Tom). RICKERBY'S FOLLY.
Gaskell (Mrs.). CRANFORD.
MARY BARTON.
NORTH AND SOUTH.

Gerard (Dorothea). HOLY MATRI-
MONY.
THE CONQUEST OF LONDON,
MADE OF MONEY.
Glssinsr (G.). THE TOWN TRAVELLER.
THE CROWN OF LIFE.

Glanvllle (Ernest). THE INCA'S

TREASURE.
THE KLOOF BRIDE.

Grimm ' (The Brotheri),
FAIRY TALES.

Hope (Anthony). A MAN OF MARK.

A CHANGE OF AIR.

THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT

ANTONIO.
PHROSO.
THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.

DEAD HEN TELL
THE THRONE OF

Homung (E. W.).
NO TALES.

Ineraham (J. H.).
DAVID.

Le Queux (W.). THE HUNCHBACK
OF WESTMINSTER,

Levett-Teats (S.

WAY.
ORRAIN.

Linton (E. Lynn;
TORY OF JOS"

THE TRAITOR'S

THE TRUE HIS-
A DAVIDSON.

Lyall (Edna). DERRICK VAUGHAN.

Malet (Lucas). THE CARISSIMA.
A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION.

Mann (Mrs. M. B.). MRS. PETER

HOWARD.
A LOST ESTATE.
THE CEDAR STAR.
ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS.
THE PATTEN EXPERIMENT.
A WINTER'S TALE.

Marehmont (A. W.). MISER HOAD-

LEY'S SECRET.
A MOMENT'S ERROR.
Marryat (Captain). PETER SIMPLE.
JACOB FAITHFUL.
March (Richard). A METAMORPHOSIS.
THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE.
THE GODDESS.
THE JOSS.

Mason (A. E. W.). CLEMENTINA.
Mathers (Helen). HONEY.
GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT.
SAM'S SWEETHEART.
THE FERRYMAN.
Meade (Mrs. L. T.X DRIFT.
Miller (Esther). . LIVING LIES.
Mitford (Bertram). THE SIGN OF THE

SPIDER.
Montresor (F. F.). THE ALIEN

Fiction

3»

■orrison (Apthup). THK HOLE IN
THB WALL.

Nesblt (E.). THB RED HOUSI.

Noprls (W. K.). HIS GRACE.
GILES INGILBY.
THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY.
LORD LEONARD THB LUCKLESS.
MATTHEW AUSTEN.
CLARISSA FURIOSA.

Oliphant (Mrs.). THE LADVS WALK.
SIR ROBERrS FORTUNE.
THE PRODIGALS.
THE TWO MARYS.

Oppenhelm (E. P.). MASTER OF MEN.

Parker (GUbePt). THE POMP OF THE

LAVILETTES.
WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC.
THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD.

Pembepton (Max). THE FOOTSTEPS

OF A THRONE.
I CROWN THEE KING.

Phillpotts (Eden). THE HUMAN BOY.
CHILDREN OF THE MIST.
THE POACHER'S WIFE.
THE RIVER.

THE

•Q' (A. T. QuUIOF Coneh).

WHITE WOLF.

Ridge (W. Pett). A SON OF THE STATE.

LOST PROPERTY.

GEORGE and THE GENERAL.

ERB.

Russell (W. Clapk). ABANDONED
A MARRIAGE AT SEA.
MY DANISH SWEETHEART.
HIS ISLAND PRINCESS.

THE MASTER OF

Sepgeant (Adeline).

BEECHWOOD.
BALBARA'S MONEY.
THE YELLOW DIAMOND.
THB LOVE THAT OVERCAMlt.

Sldgwlek IMPS.
MAN.

Alfred). THE KINS-

Suptees (R. S.). HANDLEY CROSS.
MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR.
ASK MAMMA.

WaKOpd (MPS. L. B.). MR. SMITH

COUSINS.

THE BABY'S GRANDMOTHER.

TROUBLESOME DAUGHTERS.

Wallaee (Genepal Lew). BEN-HUR
THE FAIR GOD.

Watson (H. B.IHaPFlott).
TURERS.

THE AD YEN-

CAPTAIN FORTUNE.

Weekes (A. B.). PRISONERS OF WAR.

Wells (H. G.). THE SEA LADY.

White (Perey). A PASSIONATE PIL
GRIM.

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