Memoirs of Edward, earl of Sandwich, 1839-1916, ed

\^^^3V

DA

7^3

OlnrneU Hnioerattg Hibrary

3tljaca. JJetn fork

BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE

SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND

THE GIFT OF

HENRY W. SAGE

1891

The date shows when this volume was taken.

To renew this book conv the call No. and give lo
the librarian.

HOME USE RULES

All Books subject to recall

All borrowers must regis-

ter in the library to borrow

books for home use.

All books must be re-
turned at end of college
year for inspection and
repairs.

Limited books must be

returned within the four

wsek limit and not renewed.

'■ Students must return all

books before leaving town.
Offxers should arrange for
the return of books wanted
during their absence from

town.

Volumes of periodicals
and of pamphlets are held
in the library as much as
possible. For special pur-
poses they are given out for
a limited time.

Borrowers should not use

their library privileges for

the benefit of other persons.

Books of special value
and gift books, when the

giver wishes it, are not

allowed to circulate.

Readers are asked to re-
port all cases of books
marked or mutilated.

Do not deface books by marks and writing.

Cornell University Library
DA 565.S22A3

Memoirs of Edward, earl of Sandwich, 183

3 1924 028 345 357

The original of tiiis book is in
tine Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028345357

MEMOIRS OF
EDWARD, EIGHTH EARL OF SANDWICH

EDWARD. EIGHTH EARL OF SANDWICH
After a photograph

[Frontispiece

MEMOIRS OF EDWARD
EARL OF SANDWICH

1839—1916

EDITED BY MRS. STEUART ERSKINE

WITH PORTRAITS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W.

1919

Ali, Rights Reserved

PREFJ^CE

The Memoirs of Edward/sth Earl of Sandwich,
are compiled from the material that he collected from
old diaries, with a view to the publication of an
autobiography. He did not, unluckily, live to com-
plete this work, but the result of his labours is now
given to the public, with the addition of letters which
he had kept for the purpose.

The task was probably not a very congenial one
to Lord Sandwich, but he was urged to accomplish
it by many friends, amongst whom was the late
Lord Redesdale.

In the diaries and letters covering the early and
middle portions of his life, we find much that is of
interest. The writer reveals himself as a man of the
world, a lover of Society at home and abroad, a man
with a tender heart that is easily touched by any of
the tragedies of life, whether of poverty or illness,
but one who covered his rather sensitive nature with
a cloak of sarcasm. In everything that he writes
there is a personal note and very frequently a touch
of humour. Whether he is describing a Royal marriage
or an elusive tiger-hunt in which, unlike most sports-
men, he did not kill or even see the tiger, he has
always an eye for the comic side of things.

The serious side of his rather complex personality
showed a very simple and sincere religious faith and
a very human sympathy. These qualities deepened
as he advanced in years, and became conspicuous

V

vi PREFACE

towards the end of his life, when he took up, finally
and in earnest, the work of healing the sick.

The main object in publishing the Memoirs, besides
the very obvious one of fulfilling Lord Sandwich's
wishes, is that of presenting to the public some
account of his experiences in spiritual healing and of
his communications with one in the spirit world, who
was known to him as Dr. Coulter. The question will
naturally arise, " How far are we to believe in the
messages that he received and in the source of their
inspiration? "

It is a question that will be answered by each of
us according to our convictions and according to the
evidence that we can gather from the circumstances
in which the messages were delivered.

This is a vital point, and one that we may as well
consider at once.

Lord Sandwich himself, although he was given
inspired directions concerning his healing, did not
receive the messages direct ; he received them
through the American psychic, Mrs. Herbine, and
through his niece, Mrs. Scott-Gatty. All the messages
included in this volume were delivered to Mrs. Scott-
Gatty, who wrote them down as she received them,
word for word, in the exact form in which they are
given.

When these messages come, as I can testify by
personal experience, the words flow with lightning
rapidity and without a pause. It is therefore im-
possible that the messages should be an involuntary
composition of the brain, for no practised writer
could compose at such speed, keeping up the spirit
of the communication and the language in which it
is clothed.

Turning to the messages themselves, we find that
they are always couched in the same strain; the
prose is terse, dignified, with occasional relapses into

PREFACE vii

colloquialism. They are always wide in scope,
overflowing with love, high in morality, cosmic in
character. They never deviate in character or form,
and we can always discern a latent personality
inspiring them.

" I am only a humble guide, come to help you from
the Divine Master," Dr. Coulter says in the first
recorded message to Lord Sandwich, and we can but
admit that he has said nothing that could militate
against so high a mission.

As the Editor of these Memoirs, I have had little
to do beyond weaving together the mass of material
collected by Mrs. Scott-Gatty. To her intimate
knowledge of the personality of her uncle and to her
faculty for making the past live again is due any
merit that the book may possess as a " human
document."

Beatrice Erskine.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

I. EARLY YEARS

II. CONSTANTINOPLE .

III. AMERICA ....

IV. THE PRUSSIAN COURT .

V. TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN

VI. THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE

VII. A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA

VIII. A MISSION TO FEZ

IX. INDIA ....

X. THE WANDERER .

XI. LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE

XII. HERE AND THERE

XIII. THE FAR EAST. .

XIV. AT HOME AND ABROAD
XV. ON HEALING . . ,

XVI. BEFORE THE WAR

XVII. LAST YEARS
INDEX

I
19
37

57

103
120
134
152
178

193
209
227
247
263
277
286
293

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

EDWARD, EIGHTH EARL OF SANDWICH . Frontisptece

After a photograph.

FACING PAOB

VISCOUNT HINCHINGBROOKE, GRENADIER GUARDS 20

After a photograph.

MARY, COUNTESS OF SANDWICH ... 78

After an oil painting by Henry Graves.

{By kind permission of the Earl of Sandwich.)

H.M. KING EDWARD VII AND THE EARL OF

SANDWICH . . . . . , 212

Photographed at Hinchinghrooke.

MEMOIRS OF

EDWARD, EIGHTH EARL
OF SANDWICH

CHAPTER I

EARLY YEARS

Edward George Henry, eighth Earl of Sandwich,
was born on July 13th, 1839, at Uxbridge House,
Savile Row, the residence of his grandfather, Field-
Marshal Henry William, first Marquis of Anglesey.
His father was the son of John, sixth Earl of Sandwich,
and his wife. Lady Louisa Corry ; his mother. Lady
Mary Paget, was Lord Anglesey's second daughter
by his second marriage with Lady Charlotte Cadogan,
whose first husband was the first Earl Cowley.

On the eve of his birth. Lady Sandwich received
the following letter from Queen Victoria :

H.M. Queen Victoria to the Countess of Sandwich

Buckingham Palace,

July i2ih, 1839.

My dear Lady Sandwich,

It would afford me very great satisfaction
if you would accept the situation of Lady of the
Bedchamber, which is just vacated by the resigna-
tion of Lady Breadalbane.

Having known your family so long, and being
so well acquainted with your father and brothers
and sisters, it would give me sincere pleasure, if
the appointment would suit you. I hope you are

2 EARLY YEARS [chap. 1

well. It will, however, I fear, be some time before
I have the pleasure of seeing you.
Believe me always, dear Lady Sandwich,

Yours sincerely,

Victoria R.

Before leaving town after her confinement, Lady
Sandwich took her infant son to pay a visit to the
Queen at Buckingham Palace. The event is chroni-
cled in a letter to her husband.

" For his visit yesterday he wore a frock for the
first time, and his arms madfe a very respectable
appearance. He stared full at the Queen in a
most absurd manner and did not cry. The Queen
was very kind in every way, looked at the child
and kissed his hand."

The child was christened in the drawing-room at
Hinchingbrooke, Lord Sandwich's fine old Tudor
house in Huntingdonshire ; he received the names of
Edward George Henry — Lord Anglesey, Lord Temple-
ton, and the Dowager Lady Sandwich being his
sponsors.

While still a baby he used to be taken to Windsor
when his mother was in waiting. On one of these
occasions she wrote the following letter :

The Countess of Sandwich to the Dowager Countess
of Sandwich

Windsor,

Thursday.

My dear Lady Sandwich,

I seize the first five minutes I can to write
you a few lines to tell you that your little grandson
is quite well and so good. Directly I airrived the
Queen came up, and finding him on the floor, she
was on all-fours with him during her visit, and it

1839] A RENDEZVOUS TO GOSSIP 3

was ridiculous how good the child was, laughing
and talking all the time.

She brought up the Queen of the Belgians
yesterday morning, and they both were on the
ground playing with him, and he as good as
possible. He is a great pet. I assure you my
room is full of people all day long. It is the
rendezvous to gossip.

I don't at all make up my mind to this separation
from my dear husband, and I fear he is sadly dull,
poor dear, without us, but I trust he will come, at
any rate, to Cumberland Lodge.
Beheve me, my dear Lady Sandwich,
In haste.

Yours affectionately,

Mary S.

The following letter was written after Lady Sandwich
had concluded her waiting at Windsor.

The Countess of Sandwich to H.M. Queen Victoria

HiNCHINGBROOKE,

Optober 2ird, 1839.

Madam,

Matilda ' has written to me to-day express-
ing a desire from your Majesty to hear from me.
I hope it is no error on her part, or your Majesty
will think me very presumptuous in thus addressing
you. I can never forget your Majesty's extreme
kindness to my baby. He wakes every evening
about the time your Majesty went up to see him,
as if he expected the same honours every night.
Had he been a little older he must have been
spoiled by the kindness shown him.

Matilda boasts much of her frequent waltzes
with Prince Albert. I was sorry to hear Prince
Ernest had been ill. I look with great interest

The Hon. Matilda Paget, Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria.

4 EARLY YEARS [chap, l

every day to see that the hunting at Windsor
goes off without any accident.

Mr. Greville has sent me some duets for two
sopranos, which I will take the liberty of sending,
when I have selected those most worth your
Majesty's notice.

I have ,to thank your Majesty very much for
the beautiful brooches you sent to my nurses.
Mrs. Johnson has hers, and the other I have,
provided her conduct merits it.
I remain

Your Majesty's most devoted
and humble servant,

Mary Sandwich.

H.M. Queen Victoria to the Countess of Sandwich

Windsor Castle,

October 26th, 1839.

My dear Lady Sandwich,

Matilda was quite right in saying I wished
much to hear from you, and I can assure you that
your kind letter has given me great pleasure. I
am charmed to hear that the dear Baby is so
prosperous, and I wish I could dance him as I
used to do.

We have been very gay here, dancing every alter-
nate night, and I have become a great galloper.

I am sorry to say that my eldest cousin is very
much indisposed; he has got the jaundice, which,
though not alarming, is very tedious and plaguing.
Albert is in perfect health. I am quite grieved
to think that dear good Co ^ leaves me next week,
but I rejoice that it is only for a month. Pray
remember me to Lord Sandwich.

And believe me always, dear Lady Sandwich,
Yours very affectionately,

Victoria R.

» The Hon, Matilda Paget,

1841] QUEEN VICTORIA 5

H.M. Queen Victoria to the Countess of Sandwich

Dear Lady Sandwich,

I cannot let your father return to Hinching-
brooke without giving him a Una for you, to thank
you for the very kind wishes you expressed to the
Baroness on the occasion of my marriage. I know
how much you admired my dearest Albert, which
I think everybody who knows him must do. I
feel as assured of my happiness as I can be of
anything in this world, and I only hope I may be
able to make him as happy as he ought to be.

I hope you and dear Baby are well. I look
forward with pleasure to dear Go's coming on
Thursday.

Pray answer this note, as it gives me pleasure
to hear from you. Remember me kindly to Lord
Sandwich, and

Believe me always.

Yours affectionately,

Victoria R.

In 1841 Lady Sandwich found that her duties at
Court were incompatible with home ties, and she
resigned the office of Lady of the Bedchamlaer.

H.M. Queen Victoria to the Countess of Sandwich

Buckingham Palace,

December ist, 1841.

My dear Lady Sandwich,

I could not sooner answer your letter which
I received about ten days ago, but hasten to do so
now and to say how much I regret the determina-
tion you have come to of resigning the situation
you hold in my household ; tho' I cannot blame
your motives for doing so, as I should be sorry
that you should neglect your domestic duties for

6 EARLY YEARS [chap. I

my service. I shall ever look upon you as still
belonging to me to a certain extent, as you have
been about me for now two years and a half. The
Prince and I return you many thanks for all your
good wishes and kind expressions on the birth of
our httle boy, whom I shall have much pleasure
in showing to you, when you come to Windsor
for your waiting. We are going to Windsor next
week, which will, I trust, complete my recovery,
which only wants country air to make it a perfect
one. Regret to hear that my godson^ has been
so deUcate, but hope he is better now.
Pray believe me always, dear Lady Sandwich,

Yours affectionately,

Victoria R.

Lord Hinchingbrooke's childish days were chiefly
spent in Huntingdonshire, varied by visits to his
grandparents at Beaudesert and Cowes Castle, Lord
Anglesey was a great character ; he had lost a leg at
Waterloo, whilst riding with the Duke of Wellington.
" Egad, I've lost my leg," said he. " The devil you
have," replied the Duke, The leg was afterwards
buried and its resting-place shown to strangers who
went to inspect the battlefield.

Beaudesert was a typical EngUsh country house,
where great family gatherings were often held. As
both Lord Anglesey and his wife had been twice
married, these were numerously attended. Lady'
Anglesey was a charming woman, very affectionate
and lovable and with a great sense of humour. One
story that she was fond of relating concerned her
daughter, Lady Sandwich, who, when a child, was
present when Lord Anglesey told his stud-groom to
have a certain mare shot. The child asked why the
horse was to be shot, and was told that it was because
she was old and lame, " Oh, Papa, when are you
going to shoot Mamma ? " she asked calmly.

1 Lady Sandwich's second son, the Hon. Victor Montagu, born 1841

• 1842] LADY ANGLESEY'S LETTERS f

The Marchioness of Anglesey to the Countess of
Sandwich

Aix-les-Bains,
Saturday, July /^th, 1842.

My dearest Polly,

This will find you at Cowes — dear Cowes !
where we have spent so many, many happy
months together. Alas ! I do think I am too
unlucky to have missed you and Piggins ^ there ;
probably the only time you will go there ! I can
see Piggins in his hat and feathers looking too
lovely round the castle wall, everybody stopping
him ! Ah ! well-a-day — it can't be helped, but
we — poor Faddle * and I — have missed some
delicious months of his existence.

Emily says that the said Piggins is "much
more enchanting than ever," and so fond of her
that he kicks and jumps at the sight of her. Dear
Emily ! I do love her for her unselfish fondness
for that child, so unlike the mean envious conduct
of most women.

Ever yours,

Mum.

Oh ! the fleas at Aix — they distress me ! Just
Uke Italy. Just caught two !

The Same

Strathfieldsaye, _
June i6tk.

Yes, my beloved Polly,

This is your birthday, and for the first time
in your life you will pass it by without getting
a blessing from Mother, and what is the more
provoking is that it was not my fault. . . .

I am beginning to twaddle from old age and by

' Lord Hinchingbrooke.

' Lady Adelaide Paget., afterwards Lady Adelaide Cadogan

' Lady Emily Paget, afterwards Viscountess Sydney.

8 EARLY YEARS [chap, t

degrees to lose the very little sense that] I ever
possessed in my life ; but what I do retain as
strongly as ever is affection for my dearest children,
as this day proves, being the anniversary of the
birth of one of them among so many, but excelled
by none in. the list for the constant kindness
and aifection which she has never ceased to show
towards her poor old Mums, whose only pleasure
in this life left is derived from that source ! God
bless you, dearest of Poll5r's, best of children;
forgive this apparent neglect and accept (although
a day too late for the right moment) the very, very
best wishes of your old Mums, together with her
blessing and prayers to God for yourself and dear
children. One of them is now writing by my
side to you or his Papa, dear boy !

Your ;most affectionate

Mums.

One of Lord Hinchingbrooke's earliest recollections
was connected with Cowes. He was staying with
his grandparents at Cowes Castle, now the Royal
Yacht Club, when the Duke of Cambridge, the Queen's
uncle, was expected on a visit to Osborne. The boy
was taken to meet him on his landing, with strict
injunctions to keep off his hat during the proceedings.
The old Duke shook hands with him and said :

" Put your cap on, my boy."

The boy did as he was bid, reflecting on the
■ foolishness of his parents who had told him to keep
it off.

Lord Hinchingbrooke began his education at a
private school at Mortimer ; he then remained at
home with his brother Victor, under the tutorship of
Dr. Ferdinand MoUer, until he went toJEton in 1852.
These were happy years. He got on very well at
school and was able to go often to his home. This
delighted him, because of the ever-deepening devotion
to his mother, which became one of the great influ-
ences of his life. He was also often invited to Wind-

1852] THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON 9

sor, where he used to be the companion of the Prince
of Wales, thus laying the foundations of what was
to be a lifelong friendship.

The Diary

" In my childhood the journeys to Hinching-
brooke were made by road. Broxbourne on the
Eastern Counties Railway, now the Great Eastern
Railway, was the first station we used, and I
remember when Cambridge was our nearest rail-
way station. When the line was extended to
Huntingdon, a single carriage drawn by a horse
was for some time the means of locomotion on the
line between Huntingdon and St. Ives.

" The first time Queen Victoria travelled to
Scotland by the Great Northern Railway, we all
went to the station to receive her, my father as
Lord-Lieutenant, the Mayor and Corporation, and
great crowds. By some mistake the train ran
by without stopping, to our great consternation.
An apology was made to my father.

" On May 17th, 1850, my grandfather' s birthday,
a big dinner and reception was given at Uxbridge
House. I was standing in a corner of a room with
my mother and Lady William Powlett (afterwards
Duchess of Cleveland) , when a message came that
the Duke of Wellington wished to speak to me.
I remember my mother saying:
" ' Now, Hinch, you must never forget this ! '
" He was sitting in the middle of the room
with my grandmother. I remember his taking my
hand and shaking it sideways all the time he was
talking to me.

10 EARLY YEARS [chap, i

" We went to Brighton in October, and
travelled for the iirst time on the Great Northern
Railway.

"We visited the Great Exhibition of 1851 a
few days before the opening, and again in August,
and we spent a few days in London, visiting all
the principal sights from the Tower to Cremorne
Gardens !

" During a visit to the Sydneys' at Frognal,
October, we went to see the Royal Albert, 120 guns,
the largest man-of-war built up to that time,
and the Agamemnon, 91 guns, in Woolwich
Dockyard.

" On June nth, 1851, I left England for the
first time, and went with my father and brother
Victor and Bolton, my father's faithful servant,
for a fortnight to Paris, sleeping at Folkestone
and Boulogne on the way to visit my grandmother,
Lady Sandwich, who lived at No. i. Rue St.
Florentin, at the corner of the Rue de Rivoli,
and Count Walewski, my father's brother-in-law
and his second wife.

We did a great deal of sight-seeing in Paris and
Versailles, and visited the rooms at the Tuileries
from which Louis Philippe had recently fled. We
saw Prince Louis Napoleon driving in the Champs
Elysees. The Cirque and the Hippodrome were
our evening attractions."

In 1853 Lady Anglesey died. She had been
partially paralysed of late years, and used constantly
to sit in a chair given her by her brother-in-law, the
Duke of Wellington. Her death left a great gap in
the family circle.

This year saw the beginning of the Crimean War,

i853] OFF TO THE CRIMEA ii

and on February 14th Victor Montagu left home to
join, as a naval cadet, H.M.S. Princess Royal, 91 guns,
commanded by his uncle. Lord Clarence Paget. His
first cruise was to the Baltic with the Fleet under
Sir Charles Napier.

The following letter was written to Mr. Henry
Tillard, the son of a neighbour in Huntingdonshire,
who had become Lord Hinchingbrooke's most intimate
friend, although rather older than himself.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Lieutenant Henry
Tillard, R.Ay

My dear Henry,

The 41st started this morning, at least six
companies ; the rest go to-morrow and some went
yesterday. There was immense cheering and
bands playing, and crowds to see them go ; there
were such tender adieus, officers and men, women
cr5dng and kissing in all directions. I wish I had
been going with them instead of having the
monotony of an Eton life in winter. The bands
played French as well as English national airs.
There was an enormously long train ; they
embarked to-day at Woolwich, in the Prince.
Colonel Garrett commanded them. There must
have been forty or fifty carriages crowded with
soldiers. We expect Victor daily, but the Ad-
miralty knows no more of the St. George than we
do of Victor. I wonder if this letter will ever
reach you; they say that the post and surgery
are very badly managed. Has anybody any idea
when you are coming back ?

Good-bye. I must leave off.

Yours sincerely,
Hinchingbrooke .

Lord Hinchingbrooke continued at Eton, rather sore
that his younger brother should be out at the war
while he was still a schoolboy. His talent for musig

13 EARLY YEARS [chap, i

now developed, and he was allowed a piano in his
rooms. This taste of his appeared so strangely effemi-
nate to the Dowager Lady Sandwich that it was never
allowed to be mentioned in her presence.

Great military ardour prevailed among the Eton
boys at this time. It was brought to fever-pitch by
Lord Carrington marching his battalion of Bucks
militia into the playing fields, where the men drew
up and presented arms to the boys, in token of their
admiration for the heroes that had been given by
Eton to the Army.

Lord Sandwich appears to have wished his eldest
son to enter diplomacy, being possibly influenced by
the fact that his two brothers-in-law, Lord Cowley
and Count Walewski, were the representatives of
England and France in Paris and in London. This
career would probably have suited Lord Hinching-
brooke very well, but he had caught fire from the
military spirit that was abroad in the land and decided
for the Army.

The Diary : 1855

" The weather was very severe during January
and February. I learnt to skate at Eton during
a six weeks' frost. The Thames was frozen and
the ice bore in places. I remember skating above
Boveney Lock.

" My brother Victor sailed on March 24th, to
join H.M.S. Princess Royal in the Black Sea.

" The guests at Hinchingbrooke at Easter were
Lord and Lady Mandeville and their boy Kim,
Hedworth Jolliffe, Mr., Mrs., and Miss Thornhill
of Riddlesworth, Mr. and Mrs. Laurence, and
Miss Mary Boyle. Laurence was the First Secre-
tary of the American Legation. His wife was
very pretty and sang charmingly ; their American
home was in Boston.

i855] ETON 13

" Mary Boyle was an old friend of my mother's
whom she had recently met again at Burleigh.
She was the life and soul of our young days, and
continued a most intimate and beloved friend of
mine until her death in i8go. She was an intimate
friend of Charles Dickens, and was herself an
authoress. She was an excellent actress ; quite
the best amateur I have known.

" On my way back to Eton, I went to Co vent
Garden Opera and heard Angiolina Bosio, who
had made a great sensation as a singer ; she sang
the part of Elvira in Ernani, with Tamberli,
Graziani, and Tagliafico ; Cerito danced in the
ballet.

" I found the triumphal arches still standing
in Windsor which had been erected for the visit
of the Emperor Napoleon and the Empress Eugenie
to Queen Victoria.

" I spent the early part of the summer holidays
with my aunt Anne, Lady Montagu, and her niece,
Emily Leeds, at Ryde, and had my first experience
of society in dances, picnics, etc., and thoroughly
enjoyed myself.

" We went to see the Queen launch H.M.S.
Marlborough at Portsmouth. After moving a few
yards, the ship stuck, and there was great con-
sternation, but no further disaster.

'^' In November the King of Sardinia visited
Queen Victoria, and we Eton boys greeted him
from the mound of the Round Tower.

" My friend, Henry Tillard, who had been
promoted into the R.H.A., had returned from
the Crimea and was at home during the Christmas

14 EARLY YEARS [chap. I

holidays. He had written to me most interesting
letters from the Crimea since he went out in 1854.
He had been wounded and sick in hospital at
Scutari, and had been decorated with the French
Legion of Honour.

" We had the usual gay and happy times
which my 'mother always organised for us at
Christmas.

"Henry and I went together to the Sydneys'
at Frognal for shooting, and I stayed with him
in barracks at Woolwich, which, to an Eton boy,
was the acme of bliss.

" My grandmother had taken 46, Grosvenor
Square, and gave me two rooms there.

" I won what was called the Running — i.e.
the 100 yards' race at Eton. I ran third in
the first heat, and was lucky in pulling off at
the final.

" For the holidays I went with my mother to
stay with the Eburys at Moor Park, and afterwards
to Ryde, where my parents had taken a house.
The Fleets were assembled there, and I thoroughly
enjoyed a good time, with visits to the ships and
gaieties ashore.

" We were on board H.M.S. Colossus, Captain
the Hon. H. Keppel, when the Queen re-
viewed the Fleets, which were illuminated in
the evening.

" I went to London to see the fireworks in the
Green Park in honour of the Peace. I was at the
Sydneys' house in Cleveland Square, and after-
wards walked about to see the illuminations.

"On August 27th the Queen stopped at

i857] THE ONE-MILE RACE 15

9.15 a.m. at Huntingdon station ; this time the
train did stop. We all went down, the Mayor and
Corporation attended, Victor and I were presented
to her Majesty; four thousand people crowded
the station."

In 1857 Lord Hinchingbrooke left Eton. He took
with him many pleasant memories, one of the most
recent being that he won the One-Mile Race that
year. This was always a great event, and on this
occasion was made more interesting by the appear-
ance of the Prince of Wales on his pony, who galloped
along the whole course with the runners. Lord
Hinchingbrooke was first, the time being four minutes
and fifty-seven seconds.

On December i8th he was gazetted Ensign and
Lieutenant in the Grenadier Guards.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Lieutenant Henry
Tillard, R.A.

Hinchingbrooke, Huntingdon.

My dear Henry,

I must apologise for not having written
before, and I fear now it will be no good writing
to the Mauritius, as you must be nearly in
India. Indeed, I do not see how I could have
written there, as the letters must go round by
the Cape, and would not go any faster than you
yourself. '

Since you went I have done a good deal. On
November nth and 12th I passed my examina-
tion for the Army in Burlington House, London.
There were fifty-two up to pass, out of which
twenty-eight did not pass. I passed third, which
I think is pretty good out of fifty-two. We had
niathematics, fortifications, logarithms, Latin,

i6 EARLY YEARS [chap. 1

French, German, history, and geography ; and a
medical examination, in which we had to strip
entirely naked, except our shoes and stockings.
I stayed two or three days in London, and went
to the Opera Bouffe at St. James's Theatre, which
was not very good. I also heard a charming
opera, the Rose of Castile, by Balfe, at the Lyceum,
and such a' pretty play at the Haymarket, An
Unequal Match, in which all the actors were
perfect, particularly Miss Amy Sedgwick. Since
that I have been at Eton, which I only left on
Tuesday last, December 8th— alas ! for good. It
was a very jolly time indeed, and I am now so
unhappy to think I shall never go back as an
" Eton hoy."

It is the custom to get books from your
friends when you leave. I have got such a nice
lot of books; they will make my library quite
beautiful.

I went on Tuesday to Sir T. Lubbock's in Kent
(near Frognal) for the marriage of Miss Lubbock
with Mr. Birkbeck, which was a very grand affair.
I did not get there in time for the marriage, but
I saw them off, and a great breakfast of 150 people
afterwards ; then excellent glee-singing in a tent
and dancing till seven. Your (the Artillery) band
was there, and played beautiful selections during
the breakfast and charming waltzes to dance to
afterwards.

Then there was a large dinner and playing
pianoforte and smoking till one in the morning,
so I was pretty tired, having been up at eight in
the morning. Wednesday afternoon I came here,
and think I shall stay here till after Christmas.

I saw a good deal of the Prince of Wales at
Windsor ; he asked me constantly to dine or to
spend the day or ride with him. I like him very
much. The Princess Royal's marriage is to be

1857] LIFE IN LONDON i^

on January 25th, I believe, and London is to be
very gay.

Believe me,
Ever your most affectionate friend,

HiNCHINGBROOKE .

P.S. — Our last news from India is not reckoned
so good.

Guards' Club, London.

My dear Henry,

I have long intended writing again to you,
but somehow in London one has no time for
anything, and day after day goes by like lightning.
I am now quite an old soldier and getting on
capitally with my drill, and have to shout all day
with this beastly east wind down my throat out
on parade in our horrible barrack-yard. I always
have to command my company on parade, etc.,
as the other officers are absent, so 1 am getting
quite used to it. I expect to go on the Queen's
Guard very soon. I was presented at the last
Levee, so you see I am quite a swell. London is
very full, and has been very excited with all these
ministerial changes. My father is made " Master
of the Buckhounds," and kissed hands on his
appointment yesterday. In the event of Lord
Canning resigning, they say Lord Stanley will go
to India. I cannot believe they will send so
young a man ; at present he is Secretary for the
Colonies.

We heard from Victor yesterday ; he is gone to
' Gorruckpore, and very low at no prospect of
fighting. He was in that action the other day
as A.D.C. to Colonel Bowcroft, and mentioned
in the despatches. I often go to the opera — am
going to-night to hear Trovatore. It is the last
night for the present.

General Ashburnham got fearfully abused for

iS EARLY YEARS [chap. 1

coming home; however, they have ceased since
he got off so well in the House.

We remain at the Welhngton Barracks at
present, but I fear shall go down to Woolwich
or Aldershot in the spring. I suppose our differ-
ences with France will be amicably arranged and
the alliance not be broken. I don't think we are
ready to go to war at a moment's notice. They
say Lord Derby will remain in office at least a
' year, and they are very confident.

I have to attend all Court Martial Parades,
Inspections, etc., and the Orderly Room at present,
but I hope to have done with that in a day or two.
The cold east winds are too fearful just now, and
we are having dreadfully cold weather, with clouds
of dust ; the ground like iron.

My uncle Sydney returns from attending the
Princess Royal at Berlin next week ; they say
nothing ever equalled their enthusiastic reception,
and that they all think the Princess charming.

I hope to hear from you soon. I never get out
of barracks till about three or four in the afternoon.
There are some other officers living there, and we
breakfast together. Dormer, West, and I, which
makes a very merry little party. The afternoon
is generally spent in visits and the club, and the
evening in gaiety of every description. I was at
Frognal last Sunday.

Good-bye and success to you.

Ever your very affectionate friend,

HiNCHINGBROOKE .

CHAPTER II

CONSTANTINOPLE

On February 4th, 1858, Lord Hinchingbrooke joined
the 2nd Battalion of the Grenadier Guards at Well-
ington Barracks. He was now launched in London
society, and appears to have enjoyed the experience
with all the zest of his naturally gay temperament.

His first experiences of life in the Army are given
in an old diary.

The Diary : 1858

" We went to 26, Curzon Street in January, and
on February 4th I joined the 2nd Grenadier Guards
at Wellington Barracks.

" Colonel the Hon. R. Bruce was CO. ; F. Keppel,
Adjutant. I asked my Grenadier servant on
which shoulder the sash was worn. After con-
sideration he told me on the right. On my way to
barracks I saw officers in the distance with their
sashes on the left shoulder, and had to change my
sash in the Park, which was not easy in those days,
as the sash was loose. When I joined, my father
gave me his old bearskin as part of my outfit. The
bearskins of the men were supposed to last six
years, and my father had left the regiment more
than twenty years. It was speedily ridiculed and
condemned, and I had to provide myself with a
new one. I had to live in barracks at first, and

19

io CONSTANtlNOPLE [chap, ii

hearing a noise under my window one morning I
got up and looked out, and found a man in the
Coldstreams being flogged in the back yard. I
thought it a horrible and gruesome spectacle. I
am happy to think this barbarous practice has
been aboUshed. Very few cases have arisen in
my experience. Shortly after I became Adjutant
in 1864, a man by name Lewis refused to do
three drills which I had ordered. The CO. gave
him seven days' cells, which he also refused to
undergo. He was tried by District Court Martial
and sentenced to fifty lashes, which were inflicted
after I had read out the proceedings. If I had had
a little more experience, I think this might have
been avoided. Any non-commissioned of&cer had
the power of placing a private in the guard-room,
where he was kept until the following morning.
I gave an order that whenever a man was sent to
the guard-room a report was immediately to be
made to me, and similarly if he refused to obey
an order when in the guard-room.

" Many a time a word or two has brought the
man to his senses. I only gave them one chance,
but I venture to think that many years of im-
prisonment have been avoided thereby. Tact-
less, overbearing non-commissioned officers were
generally the cause of insubordination. I only
remember one case in which two men were ob-
durate to my advice. When they appealed to
me later I declined to interfere, and I am afraid
those two men, after a long period, regretted their
lost opportunity.

" I remember meeting the Duke of Cambridge,

VISCOUNT HINCHINGBROOKE, GRENADIER GUARDS
Aftsr a phokgraph

20]

1858] FLOGGING IN THE ARMY 2I

Commander-in-Chief, at dinner shortly afterwards,
when, in general conversation on the subject, the
Duke appealed to me, saying, ' There is an officer
of the Guards who will tell you how necessary it
is to keep up flogging in the Army.' I answered
with all deference that I highly approved of the
abolition. ^.

"It was interesting to consider what the opinion
of the men themselves was on the subject. Those
I asked about it generally replied that they
thought- the flogging should be retained for one
offence — i.e. stealing from a comrade, which in
effect was the only crime which affected them
personally.

" I very much enjoyed my first season in
London. Covent Garden Theatre had recently
been rebuilt after the fire. I went there for the
first time with my mother, who was invited by
the Duchess of Cambridge to the Queen's Box.

" I was highly delighted at being asked by Lord
Stratford de Redcliffe to go on his Staff in his
Special Embassy to Constantinople to take leave
of the Sultan. Just before starting I was reUeved
on the Queen's Guard, St. James's Palace, by
Philip Smith. This was our first meeting, the
foretaste of our life-long friendship.

." On.September 4th I started with Lord Strat-
ford de Redcliffe on his Special Embassy to
the Sultan of Turkey — Lady Stratford and her
daughters, the Hon. Catherine and the Hon.
Mary Canning, the Hon. George Waldegrave, the
Hon. John Warren, James Swinton, the painter.
Baron Mkrochetti, the sculptor.
3

22 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, ii

" From Paris I spent a night at Chantilly with
the Cowleys.

" At Marseilles we embarked on board H.M.S.
CuraQod, a frigate of 31 guns. Captain Mason.

"I was enchanted with the scenery of the
Straits at J\Iessina. We stayed the night there,
and we landed and drove up a mountain, whence
the view was splendid."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Countess of Sandwich

H.M.S. " CURA90A,"

Messina Harbour.

My dearest Mother,

We are just come in after a splendid run
from Marseilles ; the most lovely weather all the
way — lovely blue sky and the sea — such a colour !
We embarked at Marseilles about 2.30 p.m. on
Thursday afternoon, and were received with due
honours on board : manned yards, guards out,
etc., but the ship being in the harbour there were
no salutes. We got under weigh and left the
harbour about four, under steam, as the wind
was against us, which it has been nearly all the
way ; so we have been obliged to steam, which
is a great bother, owing to the noise and the
blacks. We made Corsica at an immense distance
off eajly on Friday morning, and passed through
the Straits of Bonifacio in the afternoon ; yester-
day we saw no land all day, but this morning
passed close to Stromboh and the Lipari Islands,
and came into this port about 12.30,

I have got a charming cabin, very good size,
with a 64-pounder in it. We have the whole of
the main deck, so do not turn out any of the
officers, their berths being all below. We have
our meals in the Captain's cabin. I have frater-
nised immensely with all the officers; they are

1858] FIRST IMPRESSIONS 23

a nice lot of fellows. Lady Stratford is such a
duck, and I am in love with Cathy ! In short, I
am perfectly happy, and never had such a jolly
trip in my life. I never felt so well in my life,
and wish I could exchange from the Guards to
the Navy. Everything is so beautiful from the
sea, and I must now go ashore.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

" We got our first sight of the comet off Cape
Matapan. The wind was always ahead, and we
steamed at a rate of from eight to nine knots.
We anchored off Tenedos, when I first touched
the Asiatic soil.

" The Turks granted permission for the Curagoa
to proceed to Constantinople ; but as it was against
the terms of the Treaty, we left the CuraQoa in
the Dardanelles for H.M.S. Caradoc, of Crimean
renown, as a despatch vessel, and had a very
rough passage up the Sea of Marmora.

" Sir Henry Bulwer, the Ambassador at Con-
stantinople, had sent Moore and De Norman to
meet H. E. at the Dardanelles.

" The view of Constantinople from the sea is
certainly very beautiful."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Earl of Sandwich

British Embassy, Consiantinople,

September 22nd, 1858.

My dear Papa, *

I think my last letter was from Messina,
where we arrived on the morning of the I2th.
We all went ashore in the afternoon, with several
of t^e officers of the ship, and went all over the

24 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, ii

town in carriages, and visited churches, gardens,
convents, etc. It was very hot, and the views
were lovely. We sailed on the evening of the
13th, passed Matapan on the evening of the 15th,
made the Doro Passage the next morning, anchored
off Tenedos. We all went ashore, and walked
through thq town into the country. I went up
to a ruin on one of the mountains, whence there
was a lovely view of the plains of Troy. We had
fruit and wine with the consul, and smoked pipes
and drank coffee with the governor. We left
Tenedos about one, and waited off the entrance
to the Dardanelles in order to ask if we were to
pass up. We passed the outer forts about four
and steamed up the Dardanelles, and anchored
off the town Dardanelles about six. The Caradoc
then steamed down and anchored near us, and
there was a conference as to whether we were to
go up that night or not. It ended in our staying
in the Cur ago a that night. We embarked the next
afternoon in the Caradoc, and after our salutes
steamed up the Dardanelles.

It was very rough in the Sea of Marmora, and
the Caradoc pitched a good deal. We anchored
jto breakfast off St. Stephano, and did not go •up
to Constantinople till about twelve, and anchored
9,t the entrance of the Golden Horn. They did
not expect us that day, and our preparations for
landing were not ready for some hours, but it
was accomplished in grand style in caiques. The
Sultan's carriage took us up through Galata and
Pera to the Embassy, where we arrived about
6 p.m. on Sunday last. There were crowds in
the streets ; we were, of course, shaken to pieces.
I came in a carriage with Lady Stratford, who
bore it wonderfully well, for I expected to upset
every minute. We had outriders and guards at
every corner of the street. Sir H. Bulwer had

1858] THE GOLDEN HORN 25

not prepared anything at the Embassy, and had
hardly told them we were coming. If we had
come as intended, the day before, the Sultan was
at the landing-place to receive us, besides deputa-
tions, etc.

Monday was devoted to 1 the reception of de-
putations, ambassadors, pashas, etc., and in the
afternoon we went in caiques up the Golden Horn
to see the tombs of the sultans and mosques, and
such lovely views.

To-day we have just returned from a state visit,
in full uniform, to the Grand Vizier at the Sublime
Porte. We all smoked pipes and drank coffee,
and he was much interested in my bearskin and
wanted to put it on, but it would not go on over
his fez. Of course everything was very gorgeous ;
enormous suites, mutes, etc. The Sultan lent his
carriage to us, and we crossed the Golden Horn
in magnificent caiques.

The mail is going and I must conclude. Have
you seen the comet ? It is seen very plainly here.
Yours very affectionately,

HiNCHINGBROOKE .

" On the 23rd I went with Swinton to see the
howling dervishes across the water at Scutari.
A weird entertainment, immense howling and
screaming and throwing themselves about, the
old dervish standing upon men and children.

" We visited the barracks and general hospital
occupied by our soldiers during the Crimean War.
The ladies met us at the cemetery with Marochetti,
whose monument was being erected to the memory
of our fellows who were buried there on a beautiful
spot overlooking the Sea of Marmora and Stam-
boul.

26 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, ii

" On the 124th I went with Maxochetti, Swinton,
and Warren to see the Sultan riding from his
palace to a mosque. The route was lined with
troops. He looked very seedy; his saddle-cloth
was ornamented with diamonds and precious
stones. ^

"In the afternoon we all went in caiques to
the Sweet Waters of Asia, where we saw crowds
of Turkish ladies sitting, walking, and driving at
their fashionable resort — a very pretty sight.

"On the 25th His Excellency was received
by the Sultan. We started at 12.30 p.m. in the
Sultan's carriages for the Palace of Dolmabatski
in full uniform. Captain Buckle, R.N., and two
naval officers, Moore and Sarrell (the dragoman)
of the Embassy. We were received at the entrance
with great ceremony by Mahmoud Pasha, the
Minister for Foreign Affairs, and his chief drago-
man, and went into a room, where we were given
pipes with beautiful amber, ornamented with
diamonds, and coffee in equally ornate cups.
We sat silent for a considerable time, and then
walked through a garden into the palace. Guards
lined the. halls and corridors. We went up a
staircase covered with red glass into the audience
chamber, which occupies the whole breadth of
the palace. The Sultan stood near a chair in the
middle of the room. Four of his suite were
standing at the end of the room. The Minister
for Foreign Affairs and the Master of the Cere-
monies conducted us, and the Queen's letter was
handed by His Excellency to the Sultan, arai we
were all presented. He asked me where the Queen

1858} VISIT TO THE SULTAN 27

was and questions about our journey. He had
a pleasing countenance, but looked feeble and
very lame,

" After about half an hour we all retired back-
wards and went into another room, where pipes
and coffee and sherbet were again offered, and
got home about 3 p.m."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Countess of Sandwich

British Embassy,

Pera, Constantinople,

September zSth, 1858.

My dearest Mother,

1 have not heard from you since your letter
of September 8th, although two or three mails
have arrived from England. One of them brought
me a letter from Victor of July 25 th, but I do not
doubt but that you have heard from him since.
He gives an account of the raies in camp, in which
he rode the pony first in the first heat, second in
the second heat, but, owing to some unfair play,
could not start in the last. They had heard that
we were going to war with France, and that the
Tower of London was being fortified and forts
erected on the Thames, which was rather good !
The Shannon Naval Brigade had returned, but
they had heard no more about themselves. He
was getting very tired of campaigning. As for
myself, I wrote to papa last Wednesday, when we
had just returned from our visit to the Grand
Vizier and Subhme Porte, which I shall never
forget in all my life — arriving at full gallop on such
pavements, guards of honour at every step, with
horses flying, coachmen holloaing, whips cracking,
and we bump, bump, bump from stone to stone
in the Sultan's carriages, with about ten outriders,
flunkeys running at the side and others standing
up behind the carriages, occasionally appearing

28 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, ii

over on our heads from a sudden jerk ; and then
the reception, with pipes, sweetmeats, and coffee
brought by slaves. It was the first time we had
gone in state, and I could not help choking with
laughter. However, since then we have done it
so often that I am quite used to it, and smoke my
pipe with the gravest composure.

Saturday we had an audience of the Sultan, who
was most courteous, and the magnificence of the
palace is astounding. The Minister for Foreign
Affairs, Mahmoud Pasha, received us, and we
smoked pipes ornamented with superb diamonds,
and had coffee-cups covered with diamonds and
precious stones, both before and after the audience.
The Sultan kept us standing a long time conversing
after the speeches were over. He is certainly not
pretty, but when he smiles he has a good counte-
nance. I saw him once going to mosque. His
saddle-cloth is covered with rubies and diaitionds.
His coat, too, is beautiful; collar and cuffs a
mass of diamonds, and belt and sword the same.
Ferouk Khan is here, and we have visited him.
I like him very much.

We went to the Scutari burial-ground the other
day, and I saw the tombs of all the officers and
men who died at the Scutari hospitals — a melan-
choly sight, I like the Asiatic side much better
than the European. I need not say that nothing
I ever saw was to be compared with the beauty
of this place. The views are too beautiful, and
the lovely dresses ; the houses of all colours dotted
about among the trees; and then that lovely
Bosphorus !

We have been to the bazaar to-day. I longed
tp buy everything, but things are so dear now,
and I have no money. I am afraid Baron Maro-
chetti is going home directly. We shall all be sorry
to lose him. We are a very jolly party here, and

1858] THE HOWLING DERVISHES 29

never dine less than twelve or fourteen, but there
is nothing so civilised as a theatre or any enter-
tainment at night. People are much earlier here
than in England. Visitors come before breakfast
is over, and there are hardly any after luncheon.
Believe me.

Your very affectionate

HiNCHINGBROOKE.

P.S. — We went to the howling dervishes the
other day, and I will give you some of their shrieks
when I get to England.

" We went in caiques to the Sweet Waters of
Europe, very pretty and like an English park.

" On the 25th, after church service at the
Embassy, I rode with His Excellency and Warren
to visit the Persian Ambassador, Ferouk Khan,
at the far end of Stamboul. Lord Strangford met
us and acted as interpreter. On our return my
horse attacked His Excellency's, and in the scrim-
mage fell."

Viscount HincMngbrooke to the Countess of Sandwich

British Embassy,

Constantinople,

October 6th, 1858..-

My dearest Mother,

I will tell you the little news I have here.
With visits and expeditions the days are got through
with wonderful rapidity. We go to see some-
thing every day, but what I really delight in
is flying about the Bosphorus in those charming
caiques. Then we land and lunch in the most
beautiful gardens, with terraces hanging over the
Bosphorus, and the views from those hills cannot
be surpassed. Yesterday we went in the afternoon

30 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, ii

to pay a visit on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus,
and the view from the garden was most magni-
ficent. One way there was Constantinople, with
the Sea of Marmora in the distance, and the other
the mountains along the Black Sea and the
distance, and,on either side the Bosphorus covered
with paiques and ships of all sizes ; the banks in
some parts dotted with villages and highly culti-
vated — in others wild and barren.

I deUght in the bazaars, not only for all the
pretty things, but for all the different Eastern
costumes — Persians, Armenians,Circassians,Turks,
Greeks, Jews, Araliians. I delight in chaffing
the Turks ; they are so jolly and good-natured,
and we have great fun.

Last night there was a large dinner here to
Sir H. Bulwer. I think he had some one of every
nation of Europe at dinner. Friday we have a
picnic up to Jherapia, and I think I shall spend
a day or two up the Bosphorus. Marochetti is
gone home, alas ! He could not stay, and we miss
him very much.

There is no political news, and there is no place
where there is so little exciteiiient and bustle as
at Constantinople. The Turks are much too lazy.
I have been reading The Interfreter . The chapters
about Constantinople are wonderfully good and
exactly as it is. We are quite flourishing, and I
shall be quite sorry to leave this beautiful place.
Ever your very affectionate

HiNCHINGBROOKE.

" On the 19th His Excellency laid the foun-
dation-stone of a memorial church, at which
ceremony speeches were made, and we went over
to Scutari for the celebration of Mahomed's
birthday, which commenced in glorious sunset.
Salutes were fired ; all the ships and minarets were

1858] PIPES AND COFFEE 31

illuminated. We went to the opera and heard a
moderate performance of Rigoletto.

" On the 20th I went with Hassim Bey, of the
Engineers, to the War Office at the SeragUo, The
Turkish Army consisted of seven divisions, each
of which comprised six regiments of infantry, four
of cavalry, and one of artillery. The peace estab-
lishment is 150,000 men, and in war 150,000
militia is added. A conscription exists of one in
every hundred for eleven years' service. This
service can be avoided by going to a military
college and receiving a commission as' officer.

" On the 21 st I went again with His Excellency
to a private audience of the Sultan. We were
received by Mahmoud Pasha and Arrifa Bey.
There was a long delay over the pipes and coffee,
during which His Excellency did not utter a word.
I then went in with His Excellency to the Sultan.
The audience was very long. The Sultan -was
much agitated, and did not disguise his fear of
His Excellency. I remember His Excellency
saying : ' Where a wise man gives orders, he
should see that his servants accomplish them.'
When the political discussion was ended, the
conversation turned to the general condition of
the British Empire, to the progress of steam power,
and to the Atlantic cable. His Excellency re-
ceived a letter from the Sultan to the Queen, and
then took leave of the sovereign over whom he
had exercised so paramount an influence for
many years. '

" Our stay in Constantinople came to an end
on October 22nd."

32 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, n

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Countess of Sandwich

October 22nd, 1858.

Dearest Mother,

A crowd of British inhabitants assembled
at the Embassy to wish good-bye to their Excel-
lencies, many «f whom accompanied us to the
shore, and some, amongst whom was Sir Henry
Bulwer, were on board the Caradoc. We weighed
anchor at 6 p.m., in a glorious moonlight ; our last
view of Constantinople was enchanting. The
Stratfords and their daughters were deeply af-
fected. We went on board H. M.S. Curagoa on the
following day in the Dardanelles.

On the 24th, after passing through the Straits
of Mitylene, I went to lie down in my cabin, when
I suddenly heard a tremendous row, all hands
rushing on deck. An Austrian brig had been
crossing our bows, which she could have done
safely, when she suddenly tried to go about and
ran into our starboard quarter, where were the
ladies' cabins. The brig's bowsprit was, of course,
carried away and she sprang a leak : the damage
to the Curagoa was very slight. When I got on
deck, the brig had drifted astern of us, and the
crew were on their knees — I presume in prayer.
We lowered boats and sent men on board the brig,
and after about an hour's delay put things square
and took her in tow. The sun had set and it
was getting dark. I was watching the brig when
suddenly I noticed the hawser slacken and the
brig running into us again. She carried away her
foremast, carried away our main studding sail-
yard, smashed the galley, and injured the stern.
I went below to comfort Lady Stratford. The
brig had again scraped outside her cabin. She
amused me very much by saying, " Really,
Hinch, this is too bad of that ship."

1858] AGROUND ON A SANDBANK 33

We had run upon a sandbank at the entrance
to the Gulf of Smyrna. The Turks had forgotten
to Hght the Kghthouse. Every effort was made
to get us off by laying out anchors, without avail.
Luckily it was very calm and a lovely night.
An Austrian steamer took the brig away with news
of our misfortune to Smyrna. Next day a French
despatch vessel, Edaireur, the American frigate
Macedonia, a Russian steamer, and a Turkish
man-of-war tried to tow us off. They lightened
the ship by taking off guns and ammunition.
After forty-eight hours we went up in a filthy
Turkish steamer which was conveying conscripts
from Egypt to Constantinople, and their Ex-
cellencies took up their abode at the consulate
with Mr. Blunt, the consul. I had very nice rooms
with the Abbots on the quay. The Curagoa got
off the next day and came up to Smyrna. I was
so devoured by mosquitoes that I took the first
opportunity of returning to the ship. His Ex-
cellency received many deputations, and laid the
first stone of the railway station, at which cere-
mony there was a large dinner in a tent and
speeches.

On November ist the ship was ready, and we
continued our voyage to Athens. We reached the
Piraeus at 4 p.m. on the 2nd, and drove up to call
on Sir Thomas Wyse, the British Minister, and
took up our abode at the Hotel d'Orient.

A large amphitheatre has recently been ex-
cavated. A dinner and evening party were given
at the Legation, and we dined with King Otho
and Queen Amelia. The King wore the Greek
national dress — a tall man and remarkably ugly.
They conversed in French.

The Kirtg asked many questions about my
regiment. One of them was concerning the
^strength of the regimept when it marched into

34 ■ CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, n

action and out ; but as he did not name the battle,
the answer was specially difficult to frame.

My leave is up, so I shall soon be back in Eng-
land.

f Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

In 1859 Lofd Hinchihgbrooke lost his great friend.
Lieutenant Henry Tillard, R.H.A., who died at
Mhow. This, the first real sorrow of his hfe, was
followed by the overwhelming grief caused by the
death of his mother. The end came so suddenly
that it found him quite unprepared. She was with
him on February nth in the Queen's Box at the
Haymarket Theatre. On the 20th of that month she
passed away in the presence of his father, himself,
and his sister, Lady Emily Montagu.'

It is not easy to exaggerate the effect this sudden
blow had on him. He adored his mother, who had
always given him the understanding love that he had
never had from his father, who was constitutionally
unsympathetic to him. At first his grief was almost
morbid in its intensity. Even after many years had
passed, he could never speak of her without emotion.
He treasured the last gown she wore, and he used to
keep her purse, scent-bottle, and card-case in a glass
case near his writing-table. When he died, fifty-
seven years after this date, the Bible she gave him
when he went to Eton was by his bedside.

The Earl of Sandtpich to Madame Lazier

Ryde,
April nth, 1859.

My dear Madame Lazier,

I have hitherto really felt quite unable to
answer your kind letter.

To indiffereiit persons it is easy to write, but
to those she loved and who loved her I have
found it a bitter trial, and to nobody more than

* Lady Emily married Siir William Hart Dyke, Bart,, M.P., on
May 31st, 187O.

i859] DEATH OF LADY SANDWICH 35

to yourself, to whom she was most tenderly
attached.

You may picture to yourself what this loss is
to me. Though very different in our natures, we
were most exactly suited. All her good quahties
of heart and mind had their influence over me,
and her good strong sense always showed its
superiority when called upon for action, and I
never repented having followed her advice. If I
thus miss her in a worldly point of view, how much
more the breaking up of home, her most affection-
ate disposition, and the charm she threw over all
the Uttle incidents of daily life ! As a mother,
who could come up to her in anxious, nay, over-
anxious care of her children? They have been
taught from their earliest years the knowledge
of their Saviour, and, thank God, I am now
reaping the fruits of their early training. My
poor boy, Victor, is, I fear, ignorant of his irre-
parable loss. What a bitter moment when he
arrives and receives, instead of the fond anticipated
embrace, the sad tidings of " gone for ever" ! Oh,
it is too hard, and yet God has bountifully sup-
ported me, and has given me, I trust, resignation
to His Holy Will. She was too good for me, too
good for this world, and is now enjoying that
heavenly rest " prepared for God's people."

Oh that we may all be there reunited !

Believe me.
Very sincerely yours.

Sandwich.

H.R.H. Princess Mary Adelaide, Duchess of Teck,
to Viscountess Sydney

St. James's,
February 23rd, 1859.

My dearest Lady Sydney,

Mamma desires me to send you the accom-
panying bunch of violets which your dear sister

36 CONSTANTINOPLE [chap, il

sent my mother on Friday, the i8th, as she feels
sure you will treasure up ariything which so lately
passed through her dear hands. The violets would
have been forwarded to you before this, had I not
thought you would prefer my drying them for
you. You, her bereaved family, and we, her
friends, havejost one we shall never see replaced.
I should feel grateful if you would let me have a
line to say when the last cerempny is to take place.
Poor Lord Sandwich ! what a terrible day for
him, and what a return to poor dear Hinching-
brooke after the happy days spent there !
God bless you, dear friend, and believe me
Affectionately yours,

Mary Adelaide.

CHAPTER III

AMERICA

In the following year Lord Hinchingbrooke was
chosen to be one of those who were to accompany
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales in his visit tb America.

The Diary

' ■ On August loth, i860, Charles Eliot and
I started on our voyage to America. It was
understood that we were to join the Prince of
Wales on arrival. His Royal Highness had sailed
from Devonport on July loth in H.M.S. Hero,
gi guns. Commodore Seymour, with H.M.S.
Ariadne, 26 guns. Captain Vansittart. The suite
comprised the Duke of Newcastle, Minister for
the Colonies ; the Earl of St. Germans, Lord
Steward ; Major-General the Hon. R. Bruce,
Governor to the Prince ; Major Teesdale and
Captain Grey, Equerries ; Dr. Acland; and G. D.
Engleheart, private secretary to the Duke of
Newcastle ; of which party I am the sole survivor.

" The Prince reached St. John's, Newfoundland,
on July 23rd, and had visited Sydney, Cape Breton
Island, Halifax, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick,
Prince Edward Island, the Saguenay River, and
Quebec before we joined him.

" We embarked at Liverpool in the Cunard
4 37

38 AMERICA [chap, hi

liner Arabia, then considered one pi the best —
slightly different from the Cunarders of to-day!
The voyage was rough, gales, heavy seas, and
fog. We were sometimes kept below, and I was
thoroughly miserable. The hours for meals were,
breakfast 8.3,0 to 9.30, luncheon at 12, dinner at
4, tea at 6, supper at 9 ; but mulled claret was
about the only thing I partook of until we reached
Halifax at 5 a.m. on the 21st an4 Boston on
the 22nd.

" We received an invitation from the Canadian
Government on our arrival to be their guests
during our visit to Canada.

" We spent two nights at the Tremont Hotel,
and arrived at Montreal on the 24th. This was
our only journey in an ordinary train, which
compared very unfavourably with the English
railways, both as to the comfort in the carriages
and the track of the line. The train constantly
slowed down to cross apparently unsafe bridges,
some of which were constructed on piles across
lakes.

" Our first function was the opening of an
exhibition at the Crystal Palace, where we met
the Prince, who had arrived that morning at
Montreal, and where we were introduced to the
Governor-General, Sir Edmund Head ; Lord Mul-
grave. Governor of Nova Scotia; Lord Lyons,
Minister to the United States; Sir Fenwick
Williams of Kars, Commander-in-Chief; and
other dignitaries.

" Thence to the opening of the bridge across the
St. Lawrence, where the Prince fixed the last stone

i860] THE PRINCE IN CANADA 39

at the entrance to the tunnel, and, mounting the
car, proceeded to the central arch, where the last
rivet was driven home by H.R.H. We crossed
to the further end of the bridge, and returned to
a luncheon at the station, where 800 guests as-
sembled, and H.R.H. gave the toast, 'To the
health of the Governor-General, success to Canada,
and prosperity to the Grand Trunk Railway.'
The great bridge and the whole city were illumi-
nated at night.

" The 27th was a strenuous day, including a
visit to the top of the mountain, attendance at
a game of lacrosse by Caughnawaga Indians, a
levee attended by 1,100 persons, a visit to H.M.S.
Valorona, where we met a detachment of the
Boston Fusiliers, who had come from the States
to do honour to the Prince, and the ball which
was held in a circular building of wood 275 feet in
diameter, built at a cost of 25,000 dollars, and
at which 4,000 pedple were present. The Prince
danced from 10.30 till 4.

" It was amusing at the balls we attended to
observe the anxiety of the young ladies to make
acquaintance with the dancing members of the
suite, as after the first two or three ceremonial
ladies the Prince generally danced with our
partners.

" The 28th was devoted to an expedition to the
Lachine and other rapids, on board the Kingston,
piloted by an Indian from the village of Caugh-
nawaga. In the evening we were present at a
concert in the great ball-room, where I first heard
Mad'elle Adelina Patti in a cantata composed
/

40 AMERICA [chap, hi

for the occasion. She was then a girl of about
sixteen.

" On the 29th there was a review of volunteers
and a luncheon with General Sir F. Williams (on
whose staff I after many years served at Gibraltar)
at Isle DorvaJ, where a procession of canoes manned
by Indians and Canadian boatmen, all attired
in scarlet and gaily decorated, afforded a striking
spectacle, and sang their wild songs with the
strokes of their paddles as accompaniment.

" On a very wet day, partly by rail, partly by
steamer, we travelled to Ottawa, where on Sep-
tember ist the ceremony took place of the laying
the first stone of the new Parliament House.

" Ottawa was then a small town, devoted to
the lumber trade, and there were grave doubts
as to the wisdom in selecting this site for the
Capitol.

" We left Ottawa with the Prince on Monday
morning, September 3rd, and travelled first by
road, then by steamer up the River Ottawa, then
in canoes over lakes and by portage ! Then the
Indians carried their canoes over falls and rapids;
then on foot through woods, and again by canoes
to Arnprior, where we had a splendid luncheon.
How it got there I cannot imagine. Then we
drove across country on a corduroy road (formed
by trees cut down and laid side by side) to Almonte,
and, finishing by railway to Brockville, slept
on board our steamer, the Kingston. We arrived
after dusk, and were escorted through the town
by a torchlight procession; fireworks went off
all round our carriages, and every house was

i860] TORONTO 41

illuminated — such a pretty sight, but, oh, such
mobs !

" One of the scenes most memorable in my life
occurred on our landing at Toronto. As the
Prince passed through a door from the landing-
stage on to a platform, from an amphitheatre of
tens of thousands of people, the National Anthem
was sung in perfect unison. The decorations were
splendid, and a setting sun gave a marvellous
effect to the whole display. This scene at Toronto
has always been memorable to me.

" The usual visits and inspections and cere-
monies concluded with a splendid ball at the
Crystal Palace. After visiting London there was
a great reception of Ojibway, Chippeway, and
other Indian tribes at Sarnia. These wild men
had come hundreds of miles to see the son of the
great Queen. They were most grotesque, covered
with feathers and war-paint. The chief shouted
a long oration, with violent gestures and dramatic
force, which -was duly interpreted, and they
received medals in memory of their reception. We
made an excursion on Lake Huron and returned
to London. London to Paris and other towns
occupied the next day. During the luncheon the
bands were taken off those who wore white hats.
Evidently the people desired to retain a relic of
the Prince, and, not being able to distinguish the
royal hat, had taken them all. And so we reached
by steamer the Great Falls, running into a siding
just above the Rapids.

"It was dark, and our first view of Niagara was
by the illumination of Bengal lights. I am not

42 AMERICA [CHAP, iii

one of those who are disappointed with their first
view of Niagara. I was amazed at the grandeur
of the scene and the roar of the waters. On the
following day we did the usual feat of walking
under the edge of the Horseshoe Fall and got
thoroughly drenched. After luncheon with Mr.
Street and a view of the Rapids, we went to the
Suspension Bridge and saw Blondin cross the
river on his rope, 1,700 feet long. Half-way across
he let himself down nearly to the water. He
afterwards carried a man over on his back, who
had to get ofE several times during the crossing
and stand on the rope. He told me he had never
been on the rope before! Blondin returned on
stilts. I thought the performance ghastly.

" Our three days at Niagara were very pleasant
after the daily ceremonies elsewhere. Of course
we visited Sable Back, Goat Island, the battle-field
of Lundislawe, and made the usual expedition in
the Maid of the Mist under the spray of the Falls.
On our way to Hamilton the Prince laid the first
stone of a monument to General Brock, where he
fell on Queenstown Heights, where the survivors
of his force in 181 2 were assembled.

" The reception at Hamilton was very fine. A
philharmonic concert, a levee, an agricultural
exhibition, where we were nearly suffocated by
the crowds, and a public luncheon, an excursion
on Lake Ontario, and a ball concluded the long
list of functions and entertainments given to the
Prince by the loyal Canadians. Fireworks and
illuminations greeted the Prince. The crowds
were so enormous that all possibility of landing

i860] .CANADIAN LOYALTY 43

was out of the question. One of the Canadian
ministers, Mr. Pennefather, who tried to arrange
a landing, was pushed by the crowd into the
river, and was only rescued from the rapid current
with great difficulty. After waiting some hours
we managed to get to the hotel by twos and
threes, unobserved by the crowd, ignoring the
great reception which had been prepared.

" Here Sir Edmund Head and all the Canadian
officials took leave of il.R.H., and there was
general satisfaction at the complete success of the
visit. There had been a general exhibition of
unbounded loyalty to the Mother Country and of
devoted respect for the Queen, intensifiLcd by the
personality, of the Prince, who gained the esteem
and affection of the multitudes with whom he
had come in contact throughout the Canadian
dominions.

" The Royal progress of the Prince of Wales
terminated here, and henceforth he travelled as
Lord Renfrew. The insufficient control of the
immense crowds at, Detroit had a salutary effect.
I presume the more populous cities we afterwards
visited were forewarned, and we had no repetition
of the contretemps at Detroit.

"Our journeys were always in special trains,
in which we could move from one end to the other.
A director's car or a specially built car was pro-
vided for H.R.H. ; a pilot engine preceded the
train ; all ordinary traffic was suspended and
every comfort provided. At all stations where
we stopped people jumped up to look into our
windows.

44 AMERICA [chap, m

" Chicago was then celebrated as the city of
the most rapid growth — twenty years old, with
a population of 140,000. We visited one of the
elevators where the flour is deposited in large bins,
and there are long shoots to send it down to the
ships below and the Court House. We saw an
entire house in process of being transported. The
original level on which the town was built was
liable to floods from Lake Michigan, and the houses
are screwed up to a safer position. In the after-
noon we went on about eighty miles by train to
Dwight, in the prairies of Illinois, for two. days'
shooting."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Earl of Sandwich

Dwight, on Grand Prairie,
September 23rd, i860.

My dearest Papa,

Here w6 are on the prairie, with the ther-
mometer upwards of 94 in the shade ; and, of
course, the only shade there is is what the cottages
give, for "there are no trees whatever or shrubs of
any kind. The prairies are very like the fens,
without dykes or water of any kind. They are
cultivated in parts about here, as we are in a small
hamlet, but in other parts it is grass or weeds and
perfectly fiat. We arrived here last night from
Chicago, and the Prince immediately went out
with his gun, but as there is no twiUght here, the
bag consisted of one owl, which a Yankee shot :
that is the extent of our sport hitherto. The
game is very abundant ; lots of prairie chicken,
quail, and cranes. There are usually duck and
snipe, but they have not had rain here for such
ages that they are driven away by the drought.
To-day it is blowing a hurricane, which is very

i860] reception IN AMERICA 45

unpleasant, with a burning sun, but we hope it
will bring rain to-night.

Wednesday we go to St. Louis, Friday or
Saturday to Cincinnati, Monday to Pittsburg,
Tuesday (via Huntingdon !) to Harrisburg, and
Wednesday to Washington ; thence to Richmond,
Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York, Albany, and
while the Prince is at Boston we shall probably
go to Quebec to meet him again at Portland to
embark for England.

You would be surprised to see the ball-rooms
here ; they are nearly all built for the occasion,
and are really wonderfully well got up, and of
gigantic size. On the 2'oth we had functions in
the morning, a very good luncheon at Sir A.
MacNab's, and at two o'clock started for the
United States. The enthusiasm in Canada was
wonderful ; crowds everywhere, and the anxiety
of the people to see the Prince wonderful. Every
town of any size was one mass of triumphal
arches, flags, and decorations. We arrived at
Windsor about eight, and rowed over the ferry to
Detroit, United States. Here the crowd was so
intense that we had the greatest difficulty in
landing, and had to sneak up to our hotel as we
best could. The Prince is Lord Renfrew in the
States, and every kind of demonstration is for-
bidden ; still there are torchlight processions
everywhere, and immense crowds and bands
serenading at all hours of the night, which is
mighty unpleasant. Things have been very well
managed hitherto, much better than in Canada.
Of Chicago there isn't much to say, except that
it is situated in a very flat country adjoining the
prairie, and is on Lake Michigan. It contains
120,000 inhabitants. Twelve years ago it was a
village, and twenty years ago it did not exist.
The streets are now wider than Regent Street,

46 AMERICA - [chap, ill

with houses four and five stories high, splendid
warehouses, and beautiful villas. The crowds in
the United States are nearly equal to those of
Canada; every station on the line is crowded,
whether the train stops or not, and they cheer
very well. They are wonderfully free and easy,
and jump up and look in at the windows of the
carriage, askiftg which is the Prince. They take
me for him very often, and put out very dirty
hands, asking me to shake hands with them.
Some enthusiastic people shouted to the Prince
at Detroit, " Come again in four years" — i.e. the
next Presidential Election.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

"At Springfield Abraham Lincoln, then a
candidate for the Presidency, was at the station.
_ " At Alton we went on board the City of Alton,
300 feet long and drawing only three feet, and
steamed by the junction of the Mississippi and
Missouri, and were able for a long way to dis-
tinguish between the clear water of the former
and the muddy water of the latter. The naviga-
tion was very dangerous, owing to the snags
formed by the trees which fall into the water.
We passed a big wreck."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Cincinnati,
September 30th, i860.

My dearest Aunt Emily,

I wrote to Papa a week ago from the
prairie, and will resume my account of our travels
from there. Monday was desperately hot, but
we started shooting at 6 a.m., and did not get back
until 7.30 p.m., in a broiling sun and without a

i860] on the MISSISSIPPI 47

tree or shade of any kind to be seen. We went
out in three parties, shooting prairie chicken, and
had very good sport, considering that this is a
bad season for game, the extreme heat and drought
having killed the young birds. It was fearfully
hot, and we spent a good part of the day marching
through the Indian corn, several feet over our
heads. There wasn't as much game as I expected,
and I enjoyed the second day more when we shot
quail, etc., in low brushwood and through occa-
sional woods, which was pretty and much better
sport. We killed upwards of 300 in two days.

On Wednesday we started at eight for St. Louis,
travelling by rail to Alton and tfience down the
Mississippi to St. Louis by steamer. We passed
the junction of the Mississippi and the Missouri,
and I must confess that I should not like to
perform a voyage on that river every day, as you
pass at every point and turn in the river some
wreck of a burnt or sunken steamer. The steamer
we were in is about the largest — she was 300 feet
long and drew three feet of water ! She has four
decks and no sides at all, so that from the outside
you can see any part of the ship at once. They
are all high pressure, and in the habit of blowing
up constantly. We stayed two nights at St. Louis,
where it was very hot. We went to a great fair
there, and saw some great trotting horses, and
they had races, which was rather good fun, in a
great amphitheatre. There were 60,000 people
present. The Prince and ourselves w;ere in a sort
of stand in the middle. Friday we came to
Cincinnati, arriving at twelve o'clock at night.
We were detained three hours on the road by an
accident which happened to the train before us ;
the cars were lying all over the track and had to
be removed. They only have one line on these
railways, and the trains go any pace round tr&-

48 AMERICA [chap, hi

mendous curves; no wonder that accidents are
of such frequent occurrence. We are fortunately
well off, being with the Prince, as we always have
special trains and pilot engines. To-morrow we
go fifteen hours on the rail to Pittsburg. We are
going towards home, as St. Louis was our western-
most point. Xhis is a very pretty town on the
banks of the Ohio.

• • • • •

Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

" The Prince visited the Governor at Harrisburg,
and was shown the original patent granted by
Charles II to Penn. We droye in procession
through Baltimore on our way to Washington,
where the President Buchanan and his niece. Miss
Harriet Lane, received the Prince at the White
House. The President appeared a kindly, genial
old gentleman, his niece most attractive in ap-
pearance and in manner.

" The Prince never liked being left alone for
long, so after the ceremonies were over I returned
to the White House — there was no guard, nor
could I find any servants. In trying to find his
room I met Miss Lane on the staircase, who showed
me the way. I was much struck by the difference
of etiquette between a presidential and a royal
palace.

"The following day at noon the President held
a levee in honour of the Prince at the White
House. Anybody came who liked ; there was no
order of any kind, no presentations; the people
scrambled by in the greatest confusion, many of
them not recognising the Prince or President. For

l86o] WASHINGTON 49

a time the Prince was immensely amused. We
visited the Capitol, Patent Office, and played
bowls with Miss Lane. A dinner of about forty
people, a reception, and a grand display of fire-
works concluded the first day.

" Our second day was occupied in an expedition
to Mount Vernon, the residence and grave of
Washington.

" The President and Miss Lane, General Cass,
the Premier, and all the Ministers and large
numbers of ladies and the Prince and all our
party were present. We embarked at the Arsenal
in the government steamer Harriet Lane, amid
salutes, and steamed on a lovely day twenty-five
miles down the Potomac. We landed in boats,
the Prince steering the President's. To witness
thfe descendant of King George III and the
successor of Washington standing together at this
spot was an interesting experience ; but the
solemnity of the scene was somewhat marred by
the band playing ' Ah che la Morte ' of the Trovatore
as a dirge for the occasion.

"In the evening Lord Lyons entertained the
President at dinner, and on the following morning
H.R.H. took leate of the President, who was
evidently much pleased with the impression
created by the dignity and geniality of the Prince.
The kindness of the President and the charm of
Miss Lane had made a most favourable impression
on us all. The. city of 'Washington stood in great
Contrast to all the other cities we had visited.
No life about it ; wide streets, mostly covered with
grass or weeds, it bore a mournful, desolate look.

50 AMERICA [chap, hi

" We' embarked again in the Harriet Lane for
Aquia Creek, where the Ministers left us, and we
took the cars for Richmond, the capital of Vir-
ginia, a slave state."

Viscount Hinchinghrooke to the Earl of Sandwich

Virginia,
October 6th, i860.

My dearest Papa,

We visited the slave market, but the sales
do not begin before lo a.m., and we started at
9 a.m. for Baltimore, which made the most
favourable impression upon me of all the American
cities. There was a military as well as civic
reception. We heard here of Winan's new ship,
shaped like a cigar, which attains great speed
and is intended to act as a submarine.

Thence to Philadelphia. The Republican can-
didate has been elected by a large majority as
Governor of Pennsylvania, which probably in-
dicates the result of the Presidential Election.

We visited Gerard' s College for Orphans, built of
white marble at a cost of 1,000,000 dollars, and the
Cherry Hill Prison, conducted on the silent system.
We saw a man sentenced to twenty years for
forging state warrants, of which he had only
completed sixteen months. I went alone into the
cell of a negro who had completed five years out
of six in a small cell with a tiny yard : his meals
were passed in through a hole in the wall; he
trembled terribly, and could not apparently speak
at first— a truly horrible, inhuman form of punish-
ment. The Lunatic Asylum for women, the race-
course, and two races made a varied day's expe-
'rience. In the evening we went to the opera,
where Adelina Patti, whom we had heard at
Montreal, sang in Martha. She was presented
to the Prince. I made her acquaintance, and re-

i860] the popular PRINCE 51

member telling her that if she came to Europe she
would make her fortune.

We travelled by train to Amboy, where the
Harriet Lane again awaited us with the deputation
from New York.

Innumerable craft accompanied us, and, the
arrival at New York was a very impressive scene
from the immense crowds on land and water.
The Prince reviewed 7,000 militia, and went to
the City Hall, where the troops marched past, and
reached the Fifth Avenue Hotel through miles of
streets crowded to their utmost extent.

Next morning we visited the University, Astor
Library, Cooper's Institute, the Free Academy,
the Central Park, recently planted ; lunched with
Major Wood; visited the Deaf and Dumb Asylum
on the Hudson River, a most successful institution ;
and went on board the Harriet Lane to see the
bridges and the .works on the banks of the East
River. We had great difficulty in getting back
to the hotel, in consequence of the enormous crowds
which had collected. This was the night of the
Great Ball, which was to eclipse all our previous
entertainments. It was held at the Academy of
Music, which was densely packed throughout.

A torchUght and firework procession of 6,000
firemen before the hotel was our entertainment
last night. The square was a living mass of
humanity, all gazing at the balcony where the
Prince stood. The enthusiasm is wonderful; it
couldn't be more were he come to be King of the
United States. I am just come in from seeing a
hospital. This morning we went to the great
church. People were admitted by ticket, and sat
there for hours " to have a look at the Prince" !

And now good-bye, best love to all.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

52 AMERICA [CHAP, in

"After a great service at Trinity Church, with
bishops and clergy innumerable, a luncheon at
the consul's, and a very wet afternoon, we left
New York on October 15th, and steamed up
the Hudson River, passing the ' Palisades ' (very
pretty scenery), to West Point, where General
Scott received the Prince, and there was a parade
of the cadets of the Military Academy and an
inspection of the barracks. Albany, the capital
of the State of New York, was our next halting-
place, where Governor Morgan received the Pfince
at the Capitol and the City Hall. At the banquet
in the evening I felt suddenly very unwell, and
to my horror found I had been eating frogs, which
were considered a delicacy.

"Boston gave a splendid reception; the chief
of the committee was Colonel Laurence, whom I
had known in England, v^here he was Secretary of
Legation.

" Our entry into the city was made in ten
barouches, each with four horses and an escort of
Lancers. There was a review of militia and a
concert of sacred music, in which 1,500 school
children took part, admirably performed. Dr.
Wendell Holmes composed the following verses
as part of our National Anthem :

" God bless our Fathers' Land,
Keep her in heart and hand.

One with our ovto !
Prom all her foes defend.
Be her brave people's friend.

Protect her throne I

" Father, in loving care.
Guard thou her kingdom's heir.
Guide all his ways ;

i8.6o] DR. WENDELL HOLMES 53

"Thine arm his shelter be,
From harm by land and sea.
Bid storm and danger flee.
Prolong his days.

" Lord, let war's tempest cease.
Fold the whole world in peace

Under Thy wings !
Make all the nations one.
All hearts beneath the sun.
Till Thou shalt reign alqne.
Great King of Kings !

" General Bruce, Dr. Acland, and I dined with
the club of the great savants of Boston. Dr.
Wendell Holmes, Dr. Wyman, Norton, Long-
fellow, Lowell, Schattock (Professor of Anatomy),
and Agassiz were our hosts. I fully felt my
responsibility as a specimen of English youth at
so distinguished a gathering.

" The ball was a great success, and edipsed all
similar entertainments we had witnessed. Society
at Boston seemed to be on a higher level than that
of other cities.

" The next morning, in a smart procession of
carriages and fours, we drove to Cambridge, visited
the Harvard College, its Library and Law School,
Dr. Agassiz' s Museum of Natural History, Pro-
fessor Bond's Observatory, and looked through the
great telescope, one of the largest in the world.
Luncheon at the college was served without liquor,
owing to the law of the State of Maine.

" Our last day. We left in splendidly fitted
special train at 10 a.m., accompanied by all
the principal authorities, for Portland, where we
embarked at 3 p.m. in H.M.S. Hero.

" Here we took leave of many Canadian and
5

54 AMERICA [chap, hi

American friends, and especially of Lord Lyons,
who had conducted somewhat unprecedented and
difficult negotiations with the most consummate
skill and tact.

" I think the Prince of Wales's visit to Canada
and the United States proved to be the greatest
success. The loyal demonstrations of the Cana-
dians to the Heir Apparent were natural and
obvious. The enthusiasm shown by the Repub-
licans to a Prince travelling incognito was un-
bounded, and there can be no doubt but that the
simple dignity and unfailing courtesy of H.R.H.
contributed in a very great degree to the successful
result of the tour.

" Thus in a rough sea we left Portland Harbour,
and we wished good-bye to America. With manned
yards and royal salutes. Admiral Milne and his
squadron parted company for Halifax. The
voyage lasted from 4 p.m., on October 20th, till
9.30 a.m. on November 15th, when we anchored
at Plymouth.

" I had a comfortable berth in H.R.H. cabin,
and for the first few days spent most of the time
in my berth. On the 24th we came in for a
strong gale. The wind was generally foul, and
we occasionally had recourse to steam or to being
towed by the Ariadne, when the hawser generally
carried away. H.R.H. occasionally succumbed.
I have known him to retire from luncheon and
return in a few minutes happy and well. We
often danced in the evening with the midshipmen
for partners. One of them was Dick Thorold,
who had been in the next room to me at Eton.

i860] return voyage OF THE HERO 55

Towards the end of this voyage the Duke of
Newcastle became so irate at the wind coming
always ahead that he vowed he would not go on
deck again until the wind changed. One evening
the Ariadne came so close alongside when the
ships were rolling in a heavy swell that there was
a terrible commotion on board, and I was told
that at a critical moment, if the ships had rolled
i'nward instead of outward and the yards had met,
one or both would have sunk.

" On November 6th we came in for another
heavy gale: the anemometer recorded eighty- two
miles. The Prince was the most long-suffering
of us. He was very little altered from the days I
spent with him when a boy at Eton. He had
never had the experience of school life, and had
recently gone to Oxford University. He read
little, but coming into continual contact with the
most enlightened men of the day, he acquired an
extraordinary amount of information, of which
he well knew how to take the best advantage.
He was straightforward and unassuming, although
fully alive to his high position, vivacious, and
greatly addicted to jokes and chaff. He disliked
being alone, and being about the same age and
without the restraint of a member of his household,
he very seldom allowed me out of his sight. He
sometimes was able to escape from the surveillance
of the suite, and naturally liked going about
incognito and unnoticed, but I was very indis-
posed to undertake the responsibility of such a
charge.

" We arrived at Windsor at 6.30 p.m., the

56 AMERICA [cJhap. m

Prince Consort met his son at the station, and the
Queen received us all in the corridor at the Castle.

" The Hero, being long overdue, several ships
had been sent out to look for her, and there was
considerable relief in the country when the safe
return of the Prince was announced.

" There was a good deal of political activity in
the States in view of the coming elections, but I
do not remember any anticipation of the gigantic
struggle between North and South ^yhich followed
so closely upon our visit to America."

CHAPTER IV

THE PRUSSIAN COURT

The Diary

" In i86i I took part in the mission to convey the
"Order of the Garter to King William of Prussia,
who had recently succeeded his brother on the
throne, and on February 26th left London for
Berlin. The Marquis of Breadalbane, General
Lord Frederick Paulet, the Hon. Crespigny Vivian
of the Foreign Office, Sir C. Young, Garter King-
of- Arms, with two officials, were the other members
of the mission. We slept at Ghent en route, and
were lodged at the Hotel de Rome at Berlin.
General F. Hamilton, Military Attache, met us,
and royal carriages conveyed us from the station.

" We were not received on the following day,
as it was a Royal birthday, but we paid a private
visit to the Princess Royal, Princess of Prussia,
who was most gracious, and heard Artot in the
Figlia del Reggimento at the Vittoria Theatre.

" After a visit to the Museum on the 2nd, we
had an audience of the King and Queen at 4.30
and dined with their Majesties at five. The Court
was, of course, in deep mourning for the late King.
Our party consisted of the Crown Prince and
Princess, Prince Albert (son). Lord and Lady

57

58 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

Augustus Loftus, and other members of the
Embassy, and the Royal household.

" The King gave us a box at the opera, where
a beautiful ballet, Ellinore, was performed, with
Marie Taglioni as 'premise danseuse. A party at
Count Redem's and a visit to Kroll's Casino
concluded the day. The leaving of cards and
official visits were wearisome, and occupied a
good deal of our time.

"On the 4th we had an audience of the Crown
Prince and Princess at 4.45, and dined with them
at five. Prince Louis of Hesse, the British
Embassy, and Baron Stockmar were the guests.
The Royal children came in during dinner. This
was my first acquaintance with the future Kaiser,
William II. The Princess Royal was extremely
gracious and friendly with us all.

" On the 5th we were received by the Prince and
Princess Frederick Charles, Prince George, Prince
Albrecht, and Prince and Princess Charles, with
whom we dined at four. He was the younger
brother of the King, and she the elder sister of
the Queen. I sat next to Marschall von Roon, the
Minister of War, and the Marchesa Lucchesini
at dinner. She and Countess Seidlewitz were the
ladies-in-waiting to Princess Charles, and were
considered the livelipst ladies of the Court. Prince
Charles put my bearskin cap on Countess Seidle-
witz's head.

" On March 6th the Investiture was held in the
Weiser Saal at theSchloss at 4 p.m. We were
conveyed in Royal carriages with six horses. The
King stood before the throne, and looked somewhat

i86i] GERMAN SHELLS 59

dicollett, in anticipation of the decorations with
which he was to be clad, among all the Court, who
were decked out in all their splendour. I carried
the Collar of the Order. After the ceremony there
was a banquet in the Great Throne Room.

" We, members of the Embassy, were seated
opposite their Majesties at a horseshoe table.
The healths of Queen Victoria and King William
were given, and Lord Breadalbane was decorated
with the Order of the Black Eagle.

" Queen Victoria would not allow any other
member of the Embassy to accept the decorations
offered, and the King gave me a bronze copy of
the statue of the Great Elector on the bridge at
Berlin. On the 7th, after an audience with Prince
Adalbert, we went in a Royal carriage-and-four to
Spandau, the Woolwich of Prussia, and saw the
process of making guns and shell^, 24-pounders
which smash 4|-inch plates. We visited the palace
of Charlottenburg and the mausoleum of King
Frederick William II. and Queen Louise by
Rauch.

" On the 8th, at 8 a.m., we went by train to
Potsdam with the King, all the Princes, Count
Adelberg, the Russian Military Attache, General
Hamilton, and a crowd of generals.

" The King inspected the ist Regiment of, Foot
Guards, and the recruits in manual and platoon
exercise and company drill, I made some remark
to the Crown Prince about the skirmishing drill,
upon which he called out Prince Louis of Hesse,
then engaged to Princess Alice of England, to put
his company through the drill, giving the cautions

6o THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

for my edification ! We visited the Cavaky
Riding House, the Palace of Sans Souci, with its
orangery and Ipeautiful gardens.

" On the gth Prince Antoine Radziwill took me
to visit the New Museum, the Houses of Parlia-
ment, etc. We dined with Count Redern, where
I made acquaiiiitance with Meyerbeer, the com-
poser, and Raube, the hisforian. After the opera
we supped with the Crown Prince and Princess :
their Majesties were present ; little round tables.
I sat between the Princess Royal and Countess
Perpoucher. The King was at the same table,
and spoke much of a speech recently made by
Prince Napoleon. '

"On the loth I went with the Crown Prince
and Princess to the Garrison Church service, and
we had an audience to take leave of the King and
Queen. They were most gracious, and showed
us all their private rooms in the Palace. We
afterwards took leave of the Crown Prince and
Princess.

" On the nth we went to tl^e artillery practice
ground, where Wahrendorf's rifled i2-pounders
were fired against earthworks at 1,200 yards, and
made very good practice. I ^ined with Tagou
of the ist Dragoon Regiment- of Guards, at their
mess at four o'clock ; the fare was very simple ;
we sat a long time at table after dinner ; and on my
suggesting that German officers remained longer
than English officers at mess, they intimated that
they were waiting for me to give the sign to rise.

" We left Berlin at 7.30 p.m. for Hanover,
which we reached at 2 a.m. After visiting the

i86i3 THE BLIND KING 6i

Royal Stables, the Palace, the magnificent plate,
the Palace and Gardens of Herrnhausen, we dined
with the blind King George at five : the Queen
did not dine, but received us before dinner ; the
King put his hands on my face and head when
presented to him. We went to the opera before
leaving at 2 a.m. The train brought a dachshund
for me from the Crown Princess as a present.
' Fritz ' was my beloved companion for years,
until he was killed by a fall from my phaeton in
Windsor. When Queen Victoria heard of the
accident through Madame de Weyer, she most
kindly gave me another.

" We spent two nights at Brussels: the King
and the Comte de Flandre were away. We
lunched with the Due and Duchesse de Brabant
and dined at the Legation with Lord and Lady
Howard de Walden, heard Jourdain in Massaniello
at the opera arid attended a party at Count
Redern's. So ended the Garter Embassy.

" The Duchess of Kent died this morning after
our return.

"In August I paid my first visit to Ireland with
my father and brother Oliver, at Tanderagee Castle,
the Duke of Manchester* s, in Co. Armagh. I had
a narrow escape of being killed ; I fell fifteen feet
foremost into an area from the terrafce in the
courtyard. The footman, smoking his pipe, heard
the fall, but went into the house to put on his
coat before he came to my rescue.

" We stayed at a filthy hotel in Limerick to
visit my father' s estates in that county and the
lovely Lakes of Kiilarney."

62 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

The Earl of Sandwich to Viscountess Sydney

Railway Hotel, Killarney,

September $th, 1861.

My dearest E.,

We arrived here yesterday from Limerick.
I had an expedition with my agent and the two
boys to look at the proposed drainage, and all
went off very peacefully. We all dined at the
inn and passed a lively evening. I am in fits of
laughing over Hinch and Oliver ; they have no
idea of ruffetting — or crowquetting* perhaps is
more correct — and imagine every speck a bug
and sigh over ill-made coffee. At Limerick I
found Hinch sleeping on the sofa in the sitting-
room because of some contretemps in his room,
and Oliver had rushed up to the attics, having
seen a mouse.' It is very nice to see the two boys
together ; it is a perpetual lark.

Well, here we are, having left Limerick yester-
day ; such a good hotel. What a lovely place this
is! I could stay here a month, and we have
lovely weather, which makes everything look well.
We got here about three o'clock, and took a car
immediately to drive round Muckross Abbey and
the Lakes. We dined at a capital table d'hote ;
everything very clean and good, which was a
comfort after some of the places we have put up at.

Hinch' s was the most miraculous escape I ever
came across. How he escaped breaking his neck
will always be a mystery, or indeed being in any
way the worse.

Ever your affectionate

S.

'• On October 8th I left London on the staff of
the Earl of Clarendon, who proceeded to Berlin
to attend the Coronation of King William as the

i86i] CORONATION OF KING WILLIAM 63

rejjresentative of Queen Victoria. Lady Claren-
don, Ladies Constance and Emily Villiers, Viscount
Dangan, Villiers Lister, and C. Stepney accom-
panied him on the mission.

" After a few days at Berlin we continued our
journey to Konigsberg on October 15th, when we
were lodged at the Hotel Prusse, and were received
by the King and Queen at the Schloss on the
following day at 1 p.m. — the ladies in evening
dress. We dined with the King at 5 p.m., and
went to a great ball given by the Province.

" On the i8th, which was a glorious day, we
went at 9.30 to the Schloss, where we were con-
ducted to the chapel and placed in the Royal pew
immediately in front of the altar. The chapel
was neither large nor beautiful, but the scene was
gorgeous — a Russian grand duke, an Austrian
archduke, and innumerable princes and princesses,
and embassies galore in all their splendour. An
amusing episode was the arrival of Lord Dudley,
renowned for his unpunctuality on all occasions.
When everybody was seated, in the pause before
the entry of their Majesties, a solitary figure
appeared, looking ashamed and confused, in the
form of Lord Dudley, the toilette of whose hair
had, it was supposed, caused the untimely contre-
temps. The service was simple and not very
long; the music wonderfully beautiful. The
King, taking the crown from the altar, placed it
on his head, and then crowned the Queen Augusta.
This example of Divine right caused much dis-
cussion throughout Europe.

" At one o'clock the King came out to the top

64 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

of the steps of the Palade and received addresses,
after which the Huldigung took place.

" Graf Puckler, the Lord Chamberlain, was the
great figure on all these occasions. Stiff as a poker
and the model of etiquette, his services must have
been invaluable to the Cburt.

" At 5 p.m. a great banquet was held at the
Palace, about 900 in the Great Saal and 300 in
other rooms ; the town was illuminated at night.

"On the 19th at twelve the 'Defiler' was
held by their Majesties in the Throne Room,
when we all marched past. The Grand Duke and
Puchess of S axe-Weimar received us in the
afternoon with great pomp. These small digni-
taries were much stiffer and more stand-off than
the more exalted personages. We dined with the
Bernsdorfs — he was Minister of Foreign Affairs;
and a concert given by their Majesties of German
music concluded the day's entertainment.

" On ^'he 22nd we repaired at noon to the
Schloss, and from the picture gallery witnessed
their Majesties make their triumphant entry info
Berlin.

" Their reception was most cordial and en-
thusiastic. The Princess Royal sat opposite to
the Queen, who bowed and waved her handkerchief
from side to side, and I fancied I could hear her
saying, ' Mein Volk, mein Volk.' The Queen had
a funny way of asking questions and answering
herself before one had time to speak. She was
always very friendly with me. One night at
Konigsberg I happened to be standing near the
door through which, after making her usual

i86i3 A KICKING MATCH 65

sweeping curtsy to the assembled guests, she f)ut
out her hand to me, and without a thought I shook
instead of kissing it before the crowd of royalties
and courtiers. When I realised my gaucherie, I
felt more than covered with confusion, but it was
too late to make amends.

" At these receptions the crowds of Royal and
distinguished personages were so great that we
were very much j ostled together. On one occasion
Lord Schomberg Kerr trod on the spur of Prince
Frederick Charles, nephew of the Emperor, and
considered the greatest general of the Prussian
Army. The Prince resented this approach by a
back kick, upon which a kicking match ensued
(both being of inflammable disposition), which
I with difficulty checked. I, of course, had to
explain that Schomberg did not recognise the
Prince, and it was all amicably settled the next
day.

, " On the 24th we dined with Prince and Princess
Frederick Charles and met the Austrian Archduke,
the Bavarian Crown Prince, the Prince of Anhalt-
Dessau — seventy guests — and went to a concert
at the King's Palace, conducted by Meyerbeer, at
which Trebelli and the sisters Marchisio sang
beautifully.

" On the 25 th we dined with the Crown Prince
and Princess — their Majesties and all the royalties
were present — and went to a great ball at the
Schloss. Amongst my partners were the Prin-
cess Alexandrine, Princess Frederick Charles, the
Duchess of Manchester, and Countess Hohenthal.

" On the 26th we dined with the King in the

66 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, rv

Weiser Saal at the Schloss, and went to a ball
given by Prince Charles.

" On Sunday, the 27th, Count Karolyi, the Aus-
trian Ambassador, gave a ball to their Majesties.

" On the 28th we dined with the Italian Envoy,
General Delia Rocca (the Austrians and Italians
did not meet 6n these occasions), and attended a
small concert at the King's Palace, and danced
after supper.

" On the 29th the French Envoy, Marechal
MacMahon, Due de Magenta, entertained their
Majesties at a ball. A huge supper-room was
built for the occasion, and it was a magnificent
entertainment.

" On the 30th Graf Redern gave a concert
at which the King and Queen were present ; and
on the 31st, after a dinner at the Palace, we took
leave of their Majesties. By this time I had
become weary of these incessant Court festivities.
We did not, however, leave Berlin until the 6th.

" My uncle. Lord Cowley, came to meet Lord
Clarendon in Brussels. "V^e dined twice with the
King, and met his son, the Due de Brabant, and
the Comte de Flandre at dinners of thirty. We
reached London on the gth.

" On November 30th I was sworn in as magis-
trate for Huntingdonshire. On December loth,
when quartered at Kensington Barracks, we
received orders that the ist Grenadiers and 2nd
Fusiliers were to embark for Canada in consequence
of the Trent Affair.

" On tlie 14th the dangerous illness of the Prince

i86i] SOCIAL WORK 67

Consort was announced, and his death took place
at 10.50 p.m., on December 14, 1861.

" On the 19th the two battaUons for Canada
paraded at Wellington Barracks at 6 a.m. I
attended as acting adjutant for the 2nd Grenadiers,
with a detachment of men ready to fill the
vacancies of absentees. One hundred and thirty
men of the ist Battalion were absent on parade ;
all turned up in time to start. I was at Waterloo
station when they started, and had great difficulty
in restraining my emotion at the cheers from our
draft of about 180 men of the 2nd Battalion."

Lord Hinchingbrooke was now only twenty-three,
but he was already a well-known figure in London
society. His character was now beginning to develop
along certain lines, and he was a man who easily made
his mark. Clever, amusing, an excellent mimic,
exceedingly sarcastic, but warmly affectionate and
very constant in friendship once his heart was en-
gaged, he had many friends and some enemies. He
loved gaiety, was an excellent linguist, and easily
made friends with foreigners ; he loved travel and
change of scene, and yet was perfectly happy at home.
He certainly possessed that gift of the gods which
made everything that came to him sparkle with the
joy of life ; and yet he had a very deep undercurrent
of religious sentiment, together with an inexhaustible
sympathy for the poor and downtrodden. In this
year, while plunged into the stream of London gaiety,
he became almoner to the poor of Shoreditch, and he
also began those systematic visits to prisons which
he continued until the end of his life.

In all his social work Lord Hinchingbrooke was
associated with his greatest friend, Mr. Philip Smith,
of the Grenadier Guards, and he used to say, in
after years, that he had received his first impulse in
that direction from him. However that may be, he
certainly worked with all the enthusiasm that was

68 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

natural to him. " I have been much occupied in
visiting prisons," he wrote about this date. " Mill-
bank one day and Coldfields the next : it is my new
mania."

In spite of the new mania he went out a great deal.
It was the year of the Great Exhibition, and London
was very gay. What with evenings at the opera,
to which he was passionately devoted, breakfasts in
the outskirts of London, which were much the fashion
just then, and the usual plethora of parties, dinners,
and dances, his timp was pretty well filled up.

On May 17th he was gazetted lieutenant and
captain.

The summer was spent at Windsor ; the autumn
brought him back to town again. In September he
visited the Prince of Wales just before he set off
for Denmark to propose to Princess Alexandra. In
January he was staying with his father at Hinching-
brboke.

Viscount Hinchinghrooke to Viscountess Sydney

HiNCHINGBROOKE, HUNTINGDON,

January gth, 1863.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

The Probys went to-day, and everybody
else goes to-morrow. We danced till 4 a.m. last
night at the ball; it was most successful — really
a capital ball. I need not say how it reminded me
of old days, but all these recollections are such
happy ones that there is nothing I like better than
to have them brought vividly before me.

We have been over the gaol this afternoon ;
yesterday we went out with the harriers all day.
I had a fall, my pony depositing itself in a ditch.
There was a capital run. I congratulate you on
winning the Kent election. The Duchess was
most active and energetic at the ball last night,
dancing everj^hing till four.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCHINGBROOKE.

i863] A VISIT TO PARIS 69

The Diary

" On January 22nd, 1863, I went abroad with
George Cadogan, afterwards Earl Cadogan. We
stayed at the Embassy in Paris with the Cowleys.
On the 26th we went to a small dance at the
Tuileries, where I was presented to the Emperor
and Empress, which was very gay and lively.
The penetrating eye of the Emperor in conversa-
tion impressed me, and the genial manner of the
Empress, a lovely woman, with whose beauty I
was much impressed. The Marquis de Caux, who
afterwards married Adelina Patti, led the cotillon,
and filled the place in society in Paris which
Augustus Lumley ocdupied in London. I saw a
good deal of the Walewskis. Count Alexandre
Florian Joseph Colonna Walewski, born in 1810,
was/the son of the Emperor Napoleon by the
Countess Walewska, with whom he became ac-
quainted at Warsaw, and with whom he was
intimately associated for many years. He married
in 1 83 1 my aunt. Lady Caroline Montagu, who
died in 1834. Their two children died in child-
hood. He married, secondly, the granddaughter
of Stanislaus Poniatowski, nephew of the last
King of Poland ; she was at this time a favourite
of Napoleon HI. He had distinguished services
as a soldier, diplomatist, and statesman, and I
remember him well as Ambassador in England,
Minister of Foreign Affairs, President of the
Congress in Paris in 1856, and Ministre d'fitat.
He died at Strasbourg in 1868. He bore a great
6

70 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

resemblance to his father, and was always very
kind and friendly with me."

Viscount Hinchinghrooke to Viscountess Sydney

British Embassy, Paris,

January 26th, 1863.

My dearest. Aunt Emily,

We went to the opera the night of our
arrival; the Emperor and Empress were there.
Saturday there was a dinner and reception here.
Think of my meeting the Ladies Villiers on Thurs- ,
day morning, walking from their cab to shop in
the Burlington Arcade — in a novel that would be
thought incredible. Probably it was the only
second it was possible for us to meet in eight or
nine months ! To-night we are going to a small
ball at the Tuileries. Having warm weather, and
Paris looking very gay and pleasant. Reception
on Saturday : hardly any fbreigners, and very
scrubby English people.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCHINGBROOKE.

" At this time I was much interested in prisons
and visited several of the prisons in Paris, as
well as all the usual sights. We also attended
a magnificent ball, given by the Pr^fet de la Seine
at the Hotel de Ville. Thence to Nice. The train
went only as far as Les Arcs, where we took the
diligence for eleven hours. Here I stayed with
Lord and Lady Stratford de Redcliffe in a lovely
villa. Nice was at that time a very popular
resort of English and Russian society. Amongst
many were the Hamiltons, Rokebys, and Count
Munster, who was courting Lady Harriet St. Clair,
whom he afterwards married."

i863] THE LOVELY EMPRESS 71

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

2 Villa Gastaud, Nice,

February 2nd, 1863.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

This place is too lovely ; my room looks
out on to the sea, with flowers and orange-trees in
full bloom underneath the window, and a lovely
view of town and bay. Everything looks like
summer, but the wind is cold when the sun goes
down. There is a bal costume to-night at the
Prefet's, where we shall meet everybody. I had
a very pleasant time in Paris. The Walewskis
were very civil — took me to the opera, and gave
me a box at the Opera Comique. I also paid
Madame D'lstrie a long visit. What a nice woman
she is ! We went to a small ball at the Tuileries,
at which I fell dangerously in love with the
Empress. I really think her the prettiest woman
I ever saw, and such a charming manner. The
young French ladies I also thought very nice, and
not at all the stiff, shy girls I expected to find. I
danced all night. Aunt Toby and the girls -have
left off crinolines, and their gowns lie two feet on
the ground behind, but I did not see any one
else like that — certainly not the Empress, who
was dressed beautifully and wore seven rows of
pearls.

Ever yours affectionately,

Hinchingbrooke.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Earl of Sandwich

2 Villa Gastaud,
February 18th, 1863.

My dearest Papa,

The weather has not been so warm lately,
and we have had continual winds. We had great
fun at the carnival yesterday. I had not seen one

72 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, iv

before, and enj oyed it immensely. I dined last
night at a very elaborate dinner with the Adolphus
Rothschilds, Hamiltons, Duke of Parma, Rokebys,
Lady Campden, Lady Peel, Countess Delanoff,
Prince Doria, Duke of Dinon, and any number of
princes were of our party. The Duke of Parma
knew my graijdmother at Paris and wished' me
to be presented to him. We have been doing a
great deal in the way of expeditions lately, and
had very good fun here.

Nice is very much grown, of course, since we
were here. The frogs have been disturbed by
new villas, and I have not heard them at all this
time.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCHINGBROOKE .

HAtel Grande Bretagne, Florence,

February 27th, 1863.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

I enjoyed my visit to Nice immensely, and
have since been to Genoa and Milan, and came
here across the Apennines from Bologna. What
a charming place this is ! so much to see and
such a climate. I long to go on to Naples and
Rome, and especially to Athens. It seems fated
that I am not to meet Victor in the Mediterranean.
People seem to think it odd that the Princess of
Prussia should hold a drawing-room in England.
What a mess my friend the King seems to be get-
ting into about Poland ! And now good-bye.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCHINGBROOKE .

" We crossed Mont Cenis by sledge and malle-
poste, and arrived in London on the 9th, in time
to attend the marriage of the Prince of Wales on
the following day.

i863] THE PRINCESS OF WALES 73

"The Duke of St. Albans, Lord Hamilton,
Charles Carrington, Henniker, and C. Wood and I
were invited as the friends of the Prince. We
were very well placed close to the altar, opposite
to where the Queen appeared in deep mourning
in the pew above the altar. I attended the
breakfast at the Castle and the departure of T.R.H.
for Frogmore. The crowds at the station on our
return were awful, and I remember assisting as
a bodyguard to Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, who,
covered with splendid jewels, was being shoved
about in the crowd.

" On March 20th the Prince and Princess held
a reception at St. James's Palace, and I was pre-
sented to the Princess.

" On the 28th my great-uncle and godfather.
Lord Templetown, died, and on April 13th Sir
George Cornewall Lewis, who made a never-to-
be-forgotten impression on my youthful mind. I
found myself next to him at dinner one night,
and wondered how I should get on with this grim-
looking philosopher and statesman. He was so
agreeable and placed me so at my ease that I have
always looked back upon it as the most pleasant
dinner I remember.

" I was very fond of the opera, and Mrs. Charles
Cust gave me an ivory, i.e. admission to her box,
whidh was on the pit tier nearest the stage on all
occasions, a present of which I availed myself for
many years.

" On April 27th I went to Hythe for a course
of musketry, my former attempt having been inter-
rupted by my brother Sydney s illness and death.

74 THE PRUSSIAN COURT [chap, nr

" On the 13th I dined with Lord and Lady
Palmerston (he was then Prime Minister) to meet
the Prince and Princess of Wales. This was their
first appearance in London Society.

" I remember going up to my cousin, Lady
Royston, who ^was then in the zenith of her ex-
quisite beauty, but very shy, and telling her I
was to take her,in to dinner and her exclaiming,
' Thank Heaven ! '

" On May 27th I dined with T.R.H., one of
their first dinners at Marlborough House. The
party consisted of the Duke and Duchess of Buc-
cleuch, Duke and Duchess of Sutherland, Prince
Reuss, Lord and Lady Hardwicke, Lord and Lady
Bessborough, Lord and Lady Proby, Lord and
Lady Foley, Mr. Gibbs, etc.. Lady Macclesfield,
Colonel du Plat, C. Knollys, R. Meade, and C.
Teesdale in waiting.

. Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Hythe,
May 28th, 1863.

Dearest Aunt E.,

The dinner went off beautifully, and the
Princess looked prettier than ever ; she was paler
than usual, which becomes her. I sat between your
friend the Duchess of Buccleuch and Lady Bury,
whom I did not know before.

What lovely weather at last ! I am getting on
all right, I hope, here. I am sorry Victor goes
abroad: It is great fun going out with him in
London, but I suppose it is the best thing for him.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

i863] BALL AT MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 75

" I left Hythe on June 26th, just in time to
attend the ball given by the Brigade of Guards
to the Prince and Princess of Wales at the Great
Exhibition in Hyde Park, which was beautifully
done. Their R.H. gave their first ball at Marl-
borough House on June 29th.

" On the 24th the Prince of Wales lent me his
box at His Majesty's, and I took the Stratfords to
hear Ristori in Medea."

CHAPTER V

TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN

TfifE Diary

" On May 19th, 1863, I took up the duty of
adjutant at St. George's Barracks, and thus began
what I have always considered the six happiest
years of my life.

" In those days the position of adjutant in the
Guards was very different from what it is now.
In the West End Barracks he and the quarter-
master and the orderly officer for the week were
the only officers who resided permanently in
barracks. The adjutant to a great extent fulfilled
not only his own duties, but those of all the
captains and sometimes of the commanding officer.
The latter as a rule came to barracks every day to
settle his reports, i.e. to punish offenders and to
issue his orders. The CO. as a rule was on duty
for eight months in the year ; the other four months
were divided between the senior captains and
lieutenant-colonels, called mounted officers, i.e.
majors of the battalion, who in' reality came rather
to learn their duties in command, and who obvi-
ously could not interfere with the regulations of
the CO. £ls administered by the adjutant.

" The regiment was commanded by the lieuten-

76

i863] DUTIES OF AN ADJUTANT 77

ant-colonel of the regiment, who was in the position
of a brigadier. His orderly room was at the Horse
Guards, with a regimental adjutant and numerous
clerks, who carried on the reci;uiting and general
office administration of the regiment and the
system of uniformity in the three battalions.
Double rank then existed throughout the Guards,
i.e. ensigns in the Guards were lieutenants in the
Army, lieutenants were captains, captains were
lieutenant-colonels. As I have said, the two
senior captains and lieutenant-colonels acted as
majors in the field when the whole battalion was
present, and at other times divided their periods
of command at the discretion of the G.O. in his
absence, The other eight captains and lieutenant-
colonels performed the duties of majors at other
times, two only being on duty at a time ; they
therefore had about eight months' leave in the year.
During the drill season at the West End, which
lasted from about May loth to the end of July, all
officers were available for field days. The adj utant
marched with the battalion to the Park, the
officers joining the battalion there. Generally
there was only one battalion parade in barracks
during the week, at which all officers doing duty
were present. Under these circumstances it will
readily be understood that the position of the
adjutant was very important and his influence in
the battalion very great.

" At stations other than the West End the
conditions were somewhat different, as of course
the officers doing duty lived in barracks or camp.
The adjutant had at all times the entire training

78 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

of young officers and the selection, training, and
promotion of the non-commissioned officers.

" On the 25th I went with my brother Oliver,
who was then quartered with the gth Lancers at
Dundalk, under very different circumstances from
my experience? of the journey by road in i860,
by rail to the Derby. We saw the race won by
Blair Athol from my uncle Lord Anglesey's stand
immediately opposite to the winning-post.

" On the 31st I dined with the Prince of Wales,
the party consisting of Prince and Princess Louis
of Hesse, Duke of Cambridge, the French Ambas-
sador, Buccleuchs, Spencers, Lady Constance
Grosvenor, Colvilles, etc.

" On June 25th I went with the Prince of
Wales to visit his brother Prince Alfred and my
brother .Victor in H.M.S. Racoon at Spithead. We
lunched on board and then steamed round the
Channel Fleet.

" On July nth I took part in tableaux at the
Rokebys'. Lady Feodore Bertie, Lady Ingestre,
Miss Montagu, Tyrone, Eliot Yorke, and I repre-
sented a scene in the time of Louis XV.

" On July 27th I went to stay at Goodwood for
the races."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

St. George's Barracks,

August 1st, 1863.

Dearest Aunt E.,

I enjoyed Goodwood very much — the
Waleses, Duke of Cambridge, Buccleuchs and
two girls, Chesterfield, all the racing men, three or
four young men, were the party — in all nearly
fifty people. Lovely weather and very pretty

MARY, COUNTESS OF SANDWICH

After an oil painting by Henry Graves
(By kind permission of the Earl of Sandwich)

78]

1863] , GOODWOOD 79

racing ; croquet and dancing in the evenings. I
fear the gentlemen were losers by the meeting ;
I won £5 from the Prince! The Richmonds
managed it all very well, and there was no more
fuss or stiffness than if there had been no Royalty.
The Duchess of Manchester in a pink gown covered
with white lace, standing under the green trees,
looked very beautiful and conspicuous — the
Marquis in incessant attendance.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCHINGBROOKE .

" We were encamped at Cove Common, Alder-
shot, during August, whence I managed to pay
flying visits to Cowes and Ryde for the regattas.

" There was a good deal of mess entertainment
in those days ; the most rowdy dinner I remember
was on August 28th, with the ist Royal Dragoons,
when we finished by all dancing on the mess table
and smashing everything that was breakable.

" On the 24th I stayed with my brother Oliver
and the gth Lancers at Brighton. He already
showed those social and military qualities for
which he was afterwards so well known.

" After a visit to Chevening, the family all
assembled at Hinchingbrooke to attend a dinner
given to my father by his tenants and friends on
.the occasion of the presentation of his portrait by
Lucas at the new Corn Exchange.' '

The Earl of Sandwich to Viscountess Sydney

Hinchingbrooke, Huntingdon,

November $th, 1863.

Dearest Emily,

Hinch has written you an account of our
proce edings yesterday ; everything went off satis-

8o TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

factorily, Hinch, Victor, and Oliver were on
their legs at different times. Oliver returned
thanks for the ladies in rather a facetious vein,
pointing to the gallery. " Look at them," quoth
he, " not at me." Victor returned thanks for the
Navy, very collectively. Hinch did not say much,
as he called op. a senior officer. I believe I got
through pretty well, but it was rather trying to
hear one's praises so constantly going, knowing,
as I do, how utterly unworthy I am of them.
However, it was most gratifyingf\to see so large a
party, and many of my friends, quite opposed to
me in politics, did me the honour to attend.
Ever yours affection^itely,

S.

In 1 864 Lord Hinchingbrooke undertook the duties
of almoner of the poor for Linlehouse, which gave
him less work than did his original district of Shore-
ditch. In his diary for this and the following year
there is little recorded except the dates of his various
visits and parties, with lists of the people he met.
Here and there some event is recorded, such as the
triumphal entry of Garibaldi into London in the Duke
of Sutherland's carriage and the entertainment held
in his honour at Stafford House. Interspersed with
other matters are notes on the actors of the day and
the operas he attended. On one occasion he mentions
Mario breaking down in La Favorita at Covent
Garden. In 1865 he paid a short visit to Paris. On
his return to London he went to see a prize fight,
which disgusted him because one of the competitors
fainted and his backers bit his ear to bring him
round 1

On November 27th, 1865, Lord Sandwich married,
for the second time, Lady Blanche Egerton, daughter
of the Earl of Ellesmere.

On February 22nd, 1866^ Lord Hinchingbrooke
wrote to his aunt, Lady Sydney, two days after the
anniversary of his mother's death :

i866] AN ANNIVERSARY 8i

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

February 22nd, 1866.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

Many thanks for your letter. The 20th
February brings always the most solemn and
sacred recollections for me, and I often think
what an influence over my life that day had. How
changed all is now ! But I feel sure this last change
is all for the best. As there is nothing to be looked
for but change in this world, we must accept it
with resignation and contentment. In consequence
of the Coldstream going to Ireland, we go to
Wellington Barracks instead of Chelsea, so we
shall be near neighbours from March ist.

I have nothing to tell you. We are thinking
of the steeplechase to-morrow, which will be an
excitement.

Ever yours affectionately,

H.

, August found him, as usual, at Cowes.
Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Castle Rock, West Cowes, Isle of Wight,
August ith, 1866.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

There are a great many people here, and
the regatta is in full swing. To-night there is a
dance at the Custs' and to-morrow the Club
Ball — Marlboroughs, Cardigans, Wiltons, Greys,
Lady A., Liddells, C. Barings, Skelmersdale,
and all the yachting people are here. I came
here from Goodwood with the Waleses, of whom
I have seen a great deal, and think her as near
perfection as any mortal can be. We went out
in the steamer on Saturday, and were to have
sailed in the yacht on Monday, but the weather

82 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

was too vile. I dined with them on Sunday and
played duets with the Princess in the evening .
Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

The Diary

" On December 4th I visited the Alfred Pagets
at Melford for shooting. We shot about 600 head
a day. There was a dance, at which most of the
youiig ladies hoped to have a turn with the Duke
of Edinburgh, who unfortunately preferred play-
ing his violin, and joined the band for the greatest
part of the evening.

" 1867 began with very cold weather and much
skating.

" I went to Titness (Annalys) for Ascot Races,
and with Philip Smith to Paris for a week for
the Great Exhibition. I stayed at the Embassy.
Lord Strathnairn was also there. I was present
on June loth at the great ball given by the
Emperor and Empress in the Salle des Marechaux
at the Tuileries to the Emperor of Russia and
the King of Prussia — a magnificent spectacle. A
lovely night, with full moon, and the Rue de
Rivoli and Champs lElysees illuminated up to the
Arc de I'Etoile.

" The Empress walked about alternately with
the sovereigns ; their sons and the Crown Prince
Humbert of Italy were also present. There was
an English charity ball at the Grand Hotel, and
a ball given by the Prussian Ambassador, Count
Golz. There was a dinner at the British Embassy
to the King of Prussia, when I met Bismarck for
the first time.

i867] A WEDDING 83

" Schneider was playing in the Grande Duchesse
de Gerolstein at the Vari6t6s. We spent much
time at the Exhibition, where Strauss' s band was
at its best and the valse ' An der Schonen blauen
Donau' was produced.

" On November 19th I shot with George New-
ton at Croxton. One day eight guns killed 1,263
head. And on the 26th went to Wimpole for my
brother Victor' s marriage.

" The marriage took place on the 28th in
Wimpole Church. Archdeacon Yorke and the
Rev. R. Liddell officiated. M/sister, Cha Cadogan,
Miss Yorke, and Miss Liddell were the bridesmaids ;
I best man. It was a fine, bright morning. The
bridal company left at three for Babraham, and
I returned to London with Willie Craven.

" On the 30th I went abroad with Charlie
Edgcumbe ' of the Grenadiers. At Avignon we
came in for a bitterly cold hurricane. The palace
of the Popes was a barrack occupied by the 76th
Regiment. We stayed at Cannes with the Mount
Edgcumbes at Villa Beaulieu. The Buccleuchs
occupied the Chateau de Garibondy, afterwards
the property of Lady Alfred Paget. My friend
Augustus Dalzell of the Scots Fusilier Guards was
here very ill.

" We went to Nice and by steamer to Genoa,
and thence via Leghorn to Rome, where we only
stayed the night, as Vesuvius was in eruption, so
went on to Naples. Our hotel was next door to
the Palace of the Duke and Duchess of San Arpino,

• Lieutenant- Colonel the Hon. Charles Edgcumbe, Grenadier Guards,
second son of the 3rd Earl of Mount Edgcumbe.

84 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chai». v

with their pretty daughter Therese Caracciolo.
They were very hospitable and kind. I met many
of the Italian Society at dinner on Christmas
Day."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Hotel Bristol, Pakis,

December 2nd, 1S67.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

It is bitterly cold here. I have seen hardly
any one I know, and the play I particularly wanted
to s^e— Robinson Crusoe — is not given till to-
morrow night, which is a sell. Charlie is in high
force, but as he is nearly as bad about making up
his mind as I am, I doubt our getting anywhere.

Genoa,
December 12th, 1867.

I am writing at midnight with my window open,
looking out on the harbour of Genoa, with a lovely
view and a bright moon. We arrived this even-
ing from Nice by steamer — glorious day, but a
very heavy swell. As we were in a long, very
small, and very narrow boat, we rolled like fun
all d3,y. We shall probably go on Saturday ,to
Spezzia and then straight to Naples. I fear the
eruption is over, but we shall see the remains of
it. We shall go back to Rome afterwards.

Naples,
December i8iA, 1867.

I had hoped to have found a letter here, but
have none from any relation. We left Genoa by
steamer, which rolled dreadfully all day in a heavy
swell. I was delighted with Genoa. We rushed
off at once to the opera on our arrival, but did
not find any one we knew. After passing a night

1867] VESUVIUS IN ERUPTION 85

at Leghorn, we came on here by rail, sleeping a
night at Rome ; so I can say that I have been at
Rome without seeing St. Peter's, the Coliseum, or
anything except the station and the hotel. My
experience of it, therefore, is of a very dull, ugly
town. Naples is quite charming. We are at a
capital hotel, with a magnificent room looking
on Chiaja and the sea. Yesterday we went to
Pompeii (a short visit), and then walked up
Vesuvius. It is very hot and very hard work,
and the cinders are very bad to walk upon —
worse than the lava and rocks. We got up to
the cone ; they would not let us go higher, as they
said it was dangerous. As there was afterwards
a cloud at the top, we did not insist, but walked
down to the lava, which was coming down in huge
red-hot torrents. It looked too marvellous. As
it gets underneath the cinders it looks as if it
moved the mountain down with it. A new crater
had formed two or three days before, and was
pouring forth immense volumes of steam and
smoke and throwing up rocks and stone, while
the mountain groaned and hissed away. We had
Pompeian guides, who wanted to get back to
Pompeii. P. Smith, whom we found here, took
us to an old crater and round the mountain. The
guides were frantic and would not come. After
some dreadful walking, we hit on the right path
up the other side of the mountain, and were even-
tually joined by our guides, who came down the
mountain in the dark. We had no ligljt, and
C. Edgcumbe had a lucky escape of not tumbling
over a precipice.

The Neapolitans seem quite content with the
new regime, and the society element does not
mind the absence of the old Court, as some
of the Royal Family come here every year to
entertain.

86 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

H6tEL DBS IlES BwTANNigUES, ROME,

December zgth, 1867.

Here we are in Rome, where we arrived on the
27th. I was very sorry to leave Naples. We
had charming rooms, and the weather had lately
become bright again. We had a tiresome journey
here — an engine off the line, and we had to wait
five hours, statving and shivering, for another
engine. They 'would not even allow us to walk
on to the next station where we were to feed, on
account of the Papal frontier. I have walked all
over the town, ahd am, of course, immensely struck
with St. Peter's, the Coliseum, etc. To-morrow
we begin doing the galleries. There are hardly
any English here, but Americans abound. The
ItaUans (at Naples) seemed bent on war with
France. They will hardly be able to contain
themselves, I fear, till the opportunity occurs.
There are no end of soldiers here — mostly smart-
looking men of all countries, but many almost
children. They really do not look more than
fifteen or sixteen.

Jatmary Sth, i868.

I am enjoying this very much, though the
weather is odious — rain nearly every day, cold,
wet, and muddy. In the galleries rain does not
matter, and we spend wet days there. To-day we
have been at the Capitol and Barberini. Think
of my finding myself at a Dominifcan convent
(Santa Sabina) the other day with a monsignore
and two Papal Zouaves ! We went to see George
Lane Fox, who is undergoing his novitiate there.
We found him — a brown monk — head nearly
shaved, hair grey, hollow cheeks : what a change !
But apparently quite happy. He never goes to
bed, and his whole time is spent in prayer, medi-
tation, study, and masses. He has hardly any

i868] A STATE OF SIEGE 87

food, commences his daily work at 3.30 a.m., is
never allowed out except walking, school fashion,
into the country once a week. He may, how-
ever, leave any moment he likes, and this is no-
thing, I hear, to the severity of the college he was
in before. These Papal Zouaves — who, by the bye,
dined with me last night — are young English
gentlemen come out here to fight and live as
private soldiers, for love of their religion and the
"Holy Father." They are such nice fellows;
they took me over a Papal barracks yesterday. I
should be sorry to sleep a single night there.
They enlist for two years. I went also to see the
Garibaldian wounded hospital ; some poor fellows
still lingering in agony, others recovering and
being sent home daily. They are treated as well
as possible, but nearly all said they were longing
to fight again for their " Papa Garibaldi." Mon-
signore Stonor is a most kind cicerone. He takes
us to-morrow to the top of St. Peter's, which no
one is allowed to go up now, the Government
being in such a fright of its being blown up. At-
tempts have been made by the Garibaldians, who
aire nearly as bad as the Fenians. I mean those
who are not under the control of either Garibaldi's
authority or the Italian Government. Rome is
still in a " state of siege," barricaded at the gates,
etc., but all seems as quiet as possible. We went
to a night fair a few evenings ago ; such shouting
and row, but all seemed as orderly as possible. I
believe the Roman middle classes are contented
enough. There is nothing going on ;in Roman
Society, so I have been to no parties. We few
English see a good deal of each other, but we do
not number more than twelve or fourteen in all.
I read the Times nearly every day at the library
here ; sometimes it is stopped, but not often.
The Romans don't seem to care for news ; they

88 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

only want to amuse themselves. We saw a young
Garibaldian yesterday of sixteen ; he had fought
in three campaigns, and had six wounds at Mon-
tana. He was recovering, and was as jolly as
possible.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCHINGBROOKE.

P.S. — Victor's iirst idea on arriving at Rome
was whether he was likely to get good snipe-
shooting in the Pontine Marshes !

" We had lost no time during our stay at Rome,
and I was thoroughly engrossed with all the
marvels of that wonderful city. We rea<;hed
Florence on the 22nd. This was then the capital
of Italy. My cousin Augustus Paget was Ambas-
sador. He and his wife were very hospitable. I
met Augustus Hare, the author.

" Thence by rail to Genoa and by Vetturino to
Cannes, sleeping at Finale and San Remo, and again
stayed with the Mount Edgcumbes at Villa Beau-
lieu. We had lovely weather for the drive along the
beautiful Corniche, and during my stay at Cannes
Mount Edgcumbe had a four-oared boat in which
we made expeditions to the islands, the crew con-
sisting of Mount Edgcumbe, Elcho, R. Hamilton,
and Henry Scott.

" I spent three days in Paris, and reached
London on February 9th. On February i8th I
went to hear the examination of the conspirators
to blow up Clerkenwell Prison for the release of
Fenian prisoners at Bow Street. I visited the
Fenian prisoners at Millbank, Barret & Co., whq
were shortly afterwards hanged.

i868] HOME AGAIN 89

" On the 20th I went with Colonel Stephenson
and Wilfred Seymour to Chatham to see the
Soldiers' Institute, the Monarch, a new turret
ship, and the Hercules. We lunched with Admiral
Sir Houston Stewart.

" On March 4th we changed quarters from
Chelsea to Wellington Barracks. The popular
concerts at this time were in full swing at St.
James's Hall — Joachim, Piatti, Norman-Neruda,
Halle, Madame Schumann, Arabella Goddard
being the principal performers."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Wellington Barracks,

April 5th, 1868.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

You must be boiled at Cannes. We are
having the most lovely weather. I have been
basking in Royal sunshine, and danced with
Princess Louise the other night, whom I think
very pretty and charming. She has lots to say
and is not at all stiff. The ladies were very angry
with the Queen for going away before the end of
the Drawing- Room ; she was supposed to be
ill, but went out driving directly. I believe she
is very angry with Gladstone and Lord Granville
for not having told her of their Resolutions.
Ever yours affectionately,
Hinchingbrooke.

" I had a catastrophe in a hansom on Monday
night. Lascelles and I, going up Waterloo Place,
found ourselves on our backs, heels in the air,
and the horse struggling above us. The glass was
down, as it was raining, so you may imagine that

90 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

for some minutes we were rather helpless. We
were fortunately extricated without any damage.

"I paid my annual visits to Cowes. We were
becalmed in Lord Stafford's famous yawl Lufra
in the race for the Queen's Cup. The race was
sailed again on Saturday. I was again on board
the Lufra with Henry Lennox, Dudley Carleton,
and C Leslie. We touched a buoy off Osborne,
and there were protests^ which were decided in
favour of the Lufra. I shall never forget our
rounding the Warner Light-ship in a strong south
wind, three yachts abreast and one half a length
_^stern, One could almost have j umped from yacht
to yacht, they were so close. The noise of the
sails, the shouting and swciaring, were prodigious.
I cannot imagine how a colUsion was avoided.
The Lufra won, Alice second, Egeria third.

" September ist saw the battalion again
quartered at the Tower, an odious place at any
time, and especially in a glorious September. I
escaped into the country most afternoons and
week-ends.

" On October 28th I visited Lord and Lady
Stanhope at Chevening. There I met the Dis-
raelis, Leveson-Gowers, Mahon, Monty Corry,
Lady Maud Lascelles, and Billy Dyke. I remember
being struck by the great attention paid by Mrs.
Disraeli to her husband. He never impressed me
by being very agreeable in Society.

" On January 9th, 1869, I went abroad with
Charlie Wynne-Finch, Scots Guards, to Paris,
Bordeaux, Bayonne, Burgos, where we found very
cold weather, a vile hotel, and a splendid cathedra.1.

1869] A SPANISH PRISON 91

" We reached Madrid on the 19th in fine sun-
shine, but very cold air. I was much impressed
by the beauty of the Picture Gallery. We visited
the Bull Ring. The performance began with two
young bulls with their horns tipped and young
matadors and picadors. An elephant then per-
formed tricks, after which the real business fol-
lowed with two big bulls, and at the conclusion
of these horrible entertainments, which are really
no more than the torturing the bulls to death,
thare was an amusing scene when a young bull
was led into the arena and all; the boys in the
place contended with him."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

. Madrid,
January 20th. 1869.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

Biarritz was charming — hot, and the Atlan-
tic roaring in with surf half a mile long under
my windows. We drove to Bayonne, a pretty
place, and, of course, full of historical interest ;
thence we crossed the frontier and went to Burgos.
On the line, troops everj^where and bands playing
them off at the stations. I thought we were in
for a row ; however, all is quiet as possible. We
had a horrible inn at Burgos, wher^ one woman
spoke execrable French. It is very cold, 3,000
feet above sea-level — mountains and vast plains
and cathedral, all very magnificent. I had a
pleasing episode there. When walking on the
quay, a Spaniard came and spoke to me. I said
" Non intendo" ; he gesticulated wildly. Then
another man came up, and they pointed to a
police station, to which I was walked off. They
could speak nothing but Spanish, but I made them

92 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

understand I could speak French, and I was
walkedoff to a tobacconist, who acted asinterpreter.
I swaggered a good deal and was very angry. It
turned out they had arrested me as a French-
man who had bolted with a lot of money. They
locked me up in a cell before the matter was cleared
up. Although the situation was not pleasant
at the time, ih a foreign country engaged in civil
war, I am since glad to have undergone the experi-
ence of imprisonment. It was fortunate that I
had my passport with me. I told them that I
was an officer of the Queen of England's Guards,
which was true ; that I was a peer of the realm,
which was not true ; and that if I were not released
England would go to war with Spain. They
finally apologised, bowed to the ground, and
retired.

Madrid is very gay and full ; bright hot sun, but
keen cold air. It is so high up. The hotel is
capital; no fires, but the sun makes one quite
hot. It is very noisy, and they never seem to go
to bed here. The theatres do not begin until
8.30. They expect a coup d'Stat ; troops are
constantly parading the street ; otherwise there
is nothing unusual going on. Most of the swells
have migrated to France, but the parade was
very full yesterday.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCHINGBROOKE.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Seville,
January 28th, 1869.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

Here I am in the balmy south, but cannot
say much for the weather in Spain. It is very
warm, but rains continually, and the place, always
dull I should imagine, is not made more lively

1869] A BULL-FIGHT 93

by a grey sky and drizzling rain. If the sun does
come out it will be very pretty, as I look out on a
square full of orange trees.

Madrid was very pleasant and the pictures
beautiful; a good hotel, though very noisy- — all
night boys selling newspapers and men singing
songs of liberty in the streets ; troops marching
about with their bands, and the eternal mules
covered with bells. I saw a bull-fight — a horrible
and curious sight to see the women waving their
handkerchiefs and shouting with excitement, when
most Englishwomen would scream and faint. We
saw Toledo and Cordova, with their magnificent
cathedrals, and then came on here. The trains are
vile. On one night journey we had nine indi-
viduals in our carriage, two of whom were babies
under a year old.

Gibraltar,
February Sth, 1869.

We left Seville for Cadiz— the nicest town I
have seen in Spain ; it has the great merit also
of not having too many lions. Murillo's last
picture, the situation of the town, the harbour and
the streets, are all that one need admire. We drove
from Cadiz to Tarifa in a sort of diligence, and
stayed there in a venta, the lowest class of inn.
The bedrooms were occupied, so I spent the night
in the 'dining-room. The next day at dawn we
started on horseback and rode among the moun-
tains by an almost impassable track to Algeciras,
and thence on the sands, round the bay, to
Gibraltar. It is delightful coming to a place
where there are quantities of pals. The first
fellow I met at the gate I knew, and the hos-
pitality of all here is unbounded. It is very hot
here, quite like summer, with geraniums growing
everywhere. Colonel Moberley has taken me all
over the galleries and fortifications.

94 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

Malaga,
February 15th, 1869.

I hope you got mine from Gibraltar. I en-
joyed my stay there immensely : glorious hot
weather, lots of fun, lots of friends. We dined
out every night, and sat out after dinner listen-
ing to the b|,hds. We basked in sunshine, wild
geraniums, orange blossom, and flowers of all
descriptions. We jpicnicked in Spain, hunted
with the Calpe hounds, went over the fortifica-
tions, and visited Africa. At Tangier I was much
interested to see the Sandwich Gate, called after
the first earl when he went to .take possession of
that town as part of the dowry of Catherine of
Braganza. This is a pretty place, but not much
to see — the Sierra Nevada close behind the town,
the Mediterranean before it. There are not so
many marks of the fighting here as at Cadiz,
although the town was bombarded for three hours
only six weeks ago. I Uke it far better than
Seville, with which I was much disappointed.
Last night we went to the theatre to see a play
called The Passion and Death of Jesus Christ.
We missed the first act, but came in for the second,
which began with the Last Supper, followed by the
Agony in the Garden, and all the different scenes
of the Passion, given in Biblical language with
many additions. The last scene of the fifth act
represented the Crucifixion ! Valses and polkas
between the acts — soft music during the most
pathetic scenes. I expected the gas to blow up
or a thunderbolt to arrive any moment. The
house was very full and as large as Drury Lane.
There was great shouting and noise at times, St.
Peter and Pontius Pilate coming in for the largest
share of applause.

.' Ever your affectionate

H.

i869] VISITS TO LUNATIC ASYLUMS 95

" I returned to London on March 2nd and
joined the battalion at Waterloo station en route
to Windsor. Colonel Higginsoi; went on leave
for a couple of days, leaving Napier Sturt in com-
mand, with orders to telegraph to hira if anything
extraordinary occurred. Napier sent him a tele-
gram, ' Nothing extraordinary has occurred,
except that Hinch has been confined of twins,'
Ames and Antrobus having joined ; they were
ever afterwards known in the battalion as the
Twins.

"I attended the Queen's first levee since her
widowhood at Buckingham Palace. About this
time I visited the Broadmoor Lunatic Asylum,
and went with Lily Wellesley, wife of the Dean
of Windsor, to the Hanwell Lunatic Asylum, and
found myself the only man amongst the female
lunatics. That evening the Windsor Strollers
gave a performance at the Windsor Theatre, fol-
lowed by a ball and supper given by the Life
Guards.

" I visited with Lily Wellesley the Hospital
and Home for Women at Clewer.

" On the 27th we occupied the new quarters
in Windsor Barracks. My sisters came to Ditton
Park (Buccleuchs) , so I stayed theje during Ascot.
The Prince and Princess of Wales gave a dance
at Cooper's Hill. I valsed with the Princess for
the first time since her illness. Her knee was
stiff, and I remember her saying, ' If you let me
fall, I shall never be able to get up again.'

"On July 8 th I met my sisters and the Victors
at Maidenhead; we rowed to Chveden and dined

96 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

at Franklin' s, Monkey I sland. When driving home
at night my beloved dachshund Fritz, given to
me by the Crown Princess of Prussia on my first
embassy to Berlin, fell out of my cart in Windsor
and was killed. He had been my companion for
eight years. Madame Van de Weyer told Queen
Victoria of my loss, and the Queen most kindly
gave me one of hers, but it never replaced Fritz.

" On August 29th I met the American Ambas-
sador, the historian Motley, at dinner with the
Van de ^Weyers.

" On September 2nd this most happy summer
at Windsor came to an end.

" On February nth, 1870, Garratt was ill ; no
officer was available, and I took off my spurs and
went on the Bank Guard, much to the amusement
of the men. In February there was again a hard
frost, and we had skating at Hampton Court.

" On March igth, after a dinner at the Tower,
I went with the police round the slums of London
in Shoredit'ch, Spital&elds, St. George' s-in-the-
West ; we visited the Standard Theatre, Blue
Anchor Tavern, where sparring was going on,
lodging-houses, private houses, St. George's Work-
house, opium-dens, brothels, etc.

" On the 28th Herbert Praed took me to see
the Working Men's Club in Bermondsey.

"On April 3rd I heard a magnificent sermon
at St. James' s Church by Canon Liddon on Prayer.

" On May 21st I dined with the German Am-
bassador, Bernsdorf, to meet the King of the
Belgians.

1870] THE FRANCO-PRUSSIAN WAR 97

" On May 28th I was Adjutant- in-Brigade-
Waiting at the Queen's birthday ceremony on the
Horse Guards Parade, which was attended by the
King of the Belgians.

" On the 30th we had a brigade field day at
Wormwood Scrubs under Prince Edward of
S axe- Weimar. It was very amusing to see the
Prince when the Duke of Cambridge, riding in
plain clothes, appeared on the scene on these
occasions. In order that there might be no
criticism, the Prince generally said, 'We will
now have a march past.'

" On July 6th the battalions went under canvas
at Cove Common, Aldershot. The Colonel, John
King, was very seedy, and put up at the Queen's
Hotel, where he died on the 9th.

" The Queen held a review of the troops on
the gth, and on my return to camp I heard of his
death. We were very intimate friends. I had
served under him as adjutant for three years.
I am sure that he had alt confidence in me, and I
had the greatest regard for him as my CO. and
my comrade. He had commanded a battalion
in the Crimea and lost a hand at the assault on
the Redan at Sebastopol, and was transferred
to the Grenadiers after the Crimean War. Owing
to his death I was promoted without purchase,
thereby gaining £5.500 ; £3.000 had been paid
for my former commission.

"On the 15th war was declared between
France and Prussia.

" On the 27th I did duty, as adjutant for the
last time, Colonel Higginson proposed my health

98 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

at rpiess. I shall never forget my sorrow at
giving up an appointment which I had held for
six years of the greatest happiness, and I am
bound to admit with general expressions of ap-
jproval from the authorities under whom I served.
- "I well remember the thought that, whatever
might be my future lot, I must always remember
that for over six years I had enjoyed a really
good time.

"At this time we were very much concerned
with the French disasters during the war. I had
been asked to go out as correspondent to the
Daily Telegraph with either army. I chose the
French Army, thinking that if taken prisoner I
should be well treated by the Prussians, whose
generals I knew so well from my embassies to
Berlin. However, the Duke of Cambridge would
not allow me to go at all.

" On the 1 6th I returned to duty, and, being
homeless, lived in Wellington Barracks. I took
my first duty as Captain of the Queen's Guard.
On the i8th my guests were Colonel Knox, Philip
Smith, G. Pakenham, and David Crichton. Paul
Methuen also dined with me on guard on the 2ist."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

2ND Battalion Grenadier Guards,
October 1st, 1870.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

^ There is a chance of my not going to India
^fter all. They are establishing schools for
ofl&cers of the reserve forces, and call for officers
to be instructors — i.e. to superintend their in-
struction and give certificates of qualification.
All advised me to go in for it, and I have sent in

1870] THE EMPRESS OF THE FRENCH 99

my name. I don't think I shall like it, but it may
lead to better things— and, with Europe in such
a state of excitement, I might regret going to
India this year.

Uncle Alfred has been to see the Empress at
Chislehurst. She was, of course, very low, but
would not admit that the French had behaved
badly to her. There were floods of tears at in-
tervals, especially when he told her that Stras-
bourg had fallen, which she had not heard, although
it was in the papers the day before. She said
that they were very poor and appeared to glory in
their poverty ; did not think that they could
stay long in England. She said that the Emperor
was much broken in mind and body by his mis-
fortune.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

" On the 24th I went on a few days' visit to
the Stratford de Redcliffes, who had taken Green-
lands on the river near Henley, where I met Count
Streletzki and Sir Travers Twiss. We visited
Medmenham Abbey, the haunt of the 4th Earl's
' HeMre Club,' and Bisham Abbey, where one of
my forefathers in Tudor times is buried.

" The officers of the MiUtia and Volunteers came
for a month's instruction and examination. They
were reported as being qualified in the rudiments
of drill, but when I called them out in succession
to prove the reports of their commanding officers
they were lamentably deficient, and I established
my authority by showing them their ignorance.
I sent one or two of them away. Boswall of
the Grenadiers was appointed my adjutant.

' ' On November 7th I saw D^j azet, aged seventy-

100 TRAVELS IN ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

four, play in the Marquis de Lanyan. The Ken-
dais were playing in My Uncle's Will at the Hay-
market. Titiens and Trebelli were at the opera.

" I spent Christmas at Port Eliot, where the
shooting is at all times rather dangerous : very
pretty coverts with rocks and very steep banks.
Admiral Codrington from Devonport was one of
the guns. It was remarked at luncheon that he
had not been very successful, and it was discovered
that he had been shooting with ball cartridges all
the morning, owing to a mistake of his marine
servant. Fortunately he had missed the guns
and the beaters as well as the game.

" The winter was very severe, and we had lots
of skating.

" In 1871 I embarked in my first London house,
33 Victoria Street, which consisted of the ground
floor, entresol, and basement. On January 27th
the news came of the surrender of Paris.

" Owing to a small- pox scare, I made arrange-
ments to be vaccinated by Porbford, and requested
him to provide an anaesthetic for the operation.
He laid bare my arm, and when I asked for chloro-
form he told me the operation had already been
performed !

" On May ist I resigned my post at the School
of Instruction. The monotony was very disagree-
able. Every month a new lot of officers beginning
the same course was wearisome.

"On June i st I received the offer of the miUtary
attacheship in Russia, which I accepted. But
after due consideration of the pros and cons, I

1871] VISIT TO FRENCH BATTLEFIELDS loi

changed my mind and declined. One objection
was the expense it entailed. All useful informa-
tion, I was told, could only be obtained by bribery,
and the climate of St. Petersburg was very repug-
nant. The Duke of Cambridge sent for me and
urged my going, but I was obdurate. Freddy
Wellesley, Coldstream Guards, was eventually
appointed, and I have sometimes regretted my
decision, as he gained such distiliction in his
opportunities during the Russo-Turkish War.
However, I might not have been equally successful.

" After the war he was appointed Secretary
of Embassy at Vienna. On July 7th I took com-
mand of the regular troops during the National
Rifle Association meeting at Wimbledon, with
E. Boscawen as my adjutant. Lord Ducie was
President tor the year. The Crown Prince of Ger-
many visited the camp on the nth, and was most
affable with me. He looked every inch a soldier.

" On the 13th, after dinner with the Cowleys,
I went to a ball given by Prince Arthur at the
Rangers' Lodge, Greenwich.

" On July 23rd I went with Philip Smith to
visit the battlefields in France. German troops
occupied the stations at Amiens, and we had
English railway carriages in our train. We put
up at the Hotel Westminster, Rue de la Paix.
The condition of Paris was deplorable. The
Tuileries, Hotel de Ville, Rue Royale, Rue Casti-
glione, corner of the Place Vendome, etc., de-
stroyed. We found the Palace at St. Cloud a ruin.
Guns were parked before the Palace at Versailles.
We saw the Communists imprisoned in the Oran-
8

I02 TRAVELS m ITALY AND SPAIN [chap, v

gery, and camps everywhere. - With Colonel Conolly
we went by train to Rosmy, and found Prussian
sentries stationed outside the enceinte ; walked
up Mount Avron, saw the remains of the French
batteries and the position of the Saxons on the
opposite hills, and the scene of the sortie near the
Marne; went up to Fort Nogent, still held by
Bavarians.

" Count Stoffel, who was French Military
Attache at Berlin when war was declared, and who
had warned the Emperor Napoleon of the great
strength and preparations of the Germans, took
us out through Vincennes to Champigny and
Curilly and over the battlefields of the sortie,
November 30th to December 2nd.

" We drove on to Noisy-le-Grand, Brie-sur-
Marne, and back over Joinville le Port and Charen-
ton. Prussians, Bavarians, and Wiirtembergers
occupied all these plac6s.

" The battlefield at Coulmiers was most interest-
ing. We came back by Les Ayles and Baunier,
the scene of the fight before the first capture of
Orleans. On our return to Paris we visited the
outworks of La Haute Bruyere via Ville Juif, a
magnificent position and view. Got, Febre, and
Favart were playing in Les Ouvners and Le Gendre
de M. Poirrier at the Frangais. We went on the
eastern battlefields, St. Quentin, where 1,500 of
the 4th Prussian Regiment were quartered. I
watched the men at drill, and noticed the brutal
manner in which the recruits were bullied on
parade. We went on to Amiens, Bapaume, Pont
Noyelle.and returned to London on August 9th."

CHAPTER VI

THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE

Lord Hinchingbrooke's " mania " for travel became
more pronounced as the years went on. He had an
inexhaustible curiosity, a love of doing something
new, of seeing fresh scenes, and of studying the
manners and custorAs of people of other nationalities.
He made a practice of talking to every one he met,
one of his favourite sajdngs in later years being,
" Now, I must go and flirt with the natives." This
remark applied equally to the inhabitants of an Indian
palace or a Dorsetshire village.

"rtie year 1871 had been an exceptionally active
one. He noted in the Diary that the average of con-
secutive nights spent in any place was under five.
In December of this year he writes from Port Eliot,
being naturally much concerned at the serious illness
of the Prince of Wales.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Port Eliot, St. German's, Cornwall,
December nth, 1871.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

How very sad about the Prince of Wales !
It is marvellous how we hear all at this distance.
We have telegrams every few hours. I fear that
he cannot have lived through the night. On these
occasions one returns to old recollections and to
our former intimacy. It is melancholy to think
that so young a man, with such a briUiant life
before him, should be so early and so unexpectedly
cut off. As for the Princess, it is too terrible to
think of her misery.

Ever yours affectionately,

HlNCH.

103

104 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

On December 19th, 1871, he started with Captain
Philip Smith, who was going overland to take up his
appointment as Military Secretary at Gibraltar. On
January 24th; in 1872, he embarked for Malta on the
P. & O. steamer Nyama, where he met Professor
Huxley and Herbert Praed. On February 17th he
embarked in the P. & O. Simla for Alexandria, in
company withJiis sister-in-law, Lady Agneta Montagu,
and Mr. Penrose Fitzgerald.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Cairo,
February 2.yd, 1872.

Dearest Aunt E.,

We stayed two nights at Alexandria and
came on here by rail : four hours of intense dust.
Cairo is much more Egyptian than I expected,
though part of it is very French. Nety is much
delighted; it is her first sight of the East,.and I
look forward with some amusement to our expedi-
tions on donkeys. I had thought of doing part of
the Nile, but Cook is hanging about, and I can't
stand that.

March ist, 1872.

We have had a very nice time here and have
seen all the sights. The bazaars are delightful —
thoroughly Oriental. We have had long expedi-
tions on donkeys to the tombs. The sacred bulls
recently discovered on the site of Memphis are the
most marvellous remains of antiquities I have
seen. The Pyramids are much as I expected, but
by no means difficult for a man to get up. I
climbed the biggest without any assistance easily
in a very short time. To-day we have been to the
Petrified Forest. I strolled off homewards after
luncheon and got some miles ahead of the party.
They scoured the wilderness in vain, and were
organising a search party when I turned up.
Yesterday we were at Heliopolis, where Jacob

1872] A GREEN VELVET HABIT loj

lived ! There is also the remains of the well where
the Holy Family rested in the Flight into Egypt.
The climate is too enchanting ; the air light and
invigorating. Nety is much agitated by the
'crowds of little naked Boys who beg from her.
When driving to Heliopolis, a fine Arab was
wading, stark naked, in a pool by the roadside.
I held the guide-book in front of her eyes, but she
pushed it away, exclaiming, " Well ! I have never
seen anything- like that before ! " She goes to
Malta with the Fitzgeralds on Monday^ to await
Victor's return. I go on to Syria with Alec
Yorke on the 5th.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

" From Suez we visited Moses' Wells, embark-
ing in a sailing boat with our donkeys, and saw
the place where the Israelites are supposed to
have crossed the Red Sea.

" On March nth we arrived at Jaffa, after a
smooth passage in a French steamer. Mrs. Thistle-
waite (Laura Bell) was on board, and we left her
at Jaffa trying her horse in a green velvet habit,

" Magro, our Maltese dragoman, and our camp
had preceded us, so we found all ready. It would
be difficult to land at Jaffa in rough weather, as
there are rocks all around the landing-place.
After seeing the house of Simon where St, Peter
lodged, we rode off through a flat cultivated plain
with orange groves, to Ramleh, where we had our
first night in camp ; Magro gave us a capital
dinner; the day was very hot, the night cold.
We had a dull windy day for our journey to Jeru-
salem.

io6 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

" Starting at 7.30 a.m., with an hour for lun-
cheon, we arrived at 6 p.m., a dismal ride across
bleak mountains. We encamped near the Jaffa
Gate, overlooking the Valley of Hinnom.

" The feeling aroused by the first sight of Jeru-
salem beats qjl description, and I do not attempt
to express it. Our first day there was very
bright and hot. We visited the House of the
Knights of St. John — the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre— the Via Dolorosa — the Houses of Pon-
tius Pilate and Herod — the scene of Dives and
Lazarus — St. Stephen's Gate. In the evening I
walked alone round the walls, across the Valley
of Jehoshaphat, by the Garden of Gethsemane, to
the Mount of Olives.

" The next day we went to the American Con-
vent, where was the Church of St. James the Less,
and where he was beheaded — ^to the House of
Ananias — through David's Gate to the House of
Caiaphas, where is shown the spot where St.
Peter denied Christ, and the cave in which he
afterwards hid himself — to the Tomb of David,
the Coenaculum, the house where the Virgin
Mary spent her latter days — by the lepers' houses,
through the Jewish quarter and bazaar, to visit
the English consul, Mr. Moore ; and returned by
the Damascus Gate and Cave of Jeremiah. In
the evening we went to the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre and the Pool of Hezekiah.

" On the 15 th we visited the tombs of Abraham
and Zechariah, the Virgin's Tomb, the ' Grotto
of Agony ' in the Garden of Gethsemane ; we went
up to the Mount of Olives to the site of the As-

i872] JERUSALEM TO THE DEAD SEA 107

cension, where there is a beautiful view from a
minaret — to the Tombs of the Prophets — the
Virgin's Well — the Pool of Siloam and the Holy
Sepulchre. I was for a time alone in the little
shrine which has been revered for mjany centuries
as the Tomb of Christ.

" On the i6th we visited the Tower of David,
where the Citadel and House of David are said to
have stood — the Mosque of Omar, on the site of
the Temple and the Golden Gate. We went to
stay at some lodgings lent me in the town.

" I have mentioned the various places as de- ,
scribed by the guides, who volunteer information
which is often ridiculous, but there can be no
doubt as to the identity of the principal^ points of
interest.

" On the 18th we visited Bethlehem, the Con-
vent, the Church of the Nativity, St. Jerome's
Cave and Tomb, Rachel's Tomb, and rode on to
Solomon's Pool, where we encamped.

" On the 19th we rode via Bethlehem to Mar-
saba, and visited the great convent in the wild,
rocky district.

" On the 2oth we crossed the rocky mountains
and through the wilderness of Judea to the
Dead Sea. We were about to bathe when some
Arabs were seen in the distance. We were told
that a short time ago a party was surprised when
bathing, and that a lady appeared in a neighbour-
ing village attired in a sheet of the Mormng Post,
and that the man was entirely devoid of cloth-
ing ; so we thought it wiser to continue our course
to the River Jordan, a rapid brown stream, and

io8 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

encamped near the village of Riba, the former
Gilgal.

"The 2ist was a very hot day. After visiting
the fbuntains and site of Jericho, we rode back
to Jerusalem — a long and steep ascent through a
barren country, a very hot day. I indulged in a
bottle of pale ale, which produced prickly heat,
from which I suffered for several days. We passed
through Bethany, where the House and Tomb of
Lazarus are shown.

" We encamped near the north-west corner of
Jerusalem." '

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Jerusalem,
March 22nd, 1872.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

We returned yesterday from the expedition
to Bethlehem, where we saw the Church of the
Nativity and the site of every incident, also the
Pools of Solomon up in the mountains when the
Temple was supplied with pure water. We went on
to Jordan, Jericho, by long rides over rocky moun-
tains or desert plains. Of coiirse it is all most
interesting, but I am not a little disappointed with
the country. Certainly we have been chiefly in
the "Wilderness of Judea, where it is all rocky
mountains, without trees or water. The country
is a mass of wild flowers and the sun is very over-
powering. Some of our days are very long.
Riding for ten hours, almost always at foot's pace,
over rocky tracks, is not easy work, but I am as
well as possible. We stay here to-day to enter-
tain the Yelvertons at luncheon, who joined us
lately, a party of six. It is unlucky that I have
missed Victor ; he met the Admiral at Jaffa, in-

1872] THE HOLY CITY 109

tending to come up here, but owing to a row
between the Turkish and Egyptian authorities at
Suez he was ordered off at once to Port Said.
The Yelvertons had a fearful ride up from Jaffa ;
they rode all day and night in torrents of rain
and gusts of wind; it was so dark that they
could see nothing.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

P.S. — After lunch we all went to see the Jews
waiting at the wall of the Temple. I went through
the Christian quarter of the city, the most filthy,
stinking place I ever visited. I have always
found that, where Christians and Mohammedans
live alongside, the former are of the most des-
picable kind, and Jerusalem was certainly no
exception to the rule. We also underwent the
process of being tattooed, so I have the five crosses
of Jerusalem and the Star of Bethlehem on my
arm!

" We left Jerusalem on the 23rd. Although
one is often irritated by the continual information
from the guides as to the identity and locality of
every incident related in the Bible, in all other
respects I felt deeply absorbed in the sanctity of
the city and the surrounding country, and have
never felt the same interest in any other place,
and more gratitude at having visited it under
primitive conditions and before the days of roads
and railways.

"Our first halt was at Ain el Haramiyeh, a

lovely place in the mountains. On the next we

passed by Jacob' s Well, Joseph' s Tomb, and arrived

at Nablus, the ancient Shechem. The town is

V3ry picturesque, with a good Oriental bazaar.

no THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

We went to the Samaritans' Synagogue, and saw
a copy of the Pentateuch, written by Abishua,
son of Phinehas, 3,500 years old ; to the site of
ancient Shechem, Jacob's town, between Mounts
Ebal and Gerizim, and the Well where Christ
met the woman drawing water. A three hours'
hot ride brought us to Samaria, where are the
remains of a Roman temple. The road thence is
mountainous and rocky to Jenin ; thence across
the plains of Esdraelon and Jezreel, by Mount
Gilboa and Mount Tabor, Nain, Endor, to
Nazareth on March 27th, where the scenes of the
youth of Christ are all pointed out.

" The weather was lovely and very hot, the
wild flowers beautiful. We passed the Mount of
Beatitudes, the place where the 5,000 were fed.
The battlefield of the Crusades 1187, when Raynold
of Chatillon was defeated by Saladin, and en-
camped about half a mile from Tiberias. We spent
two nights on the shore of the Lake of Genesareth,
and bathed in the lake.

" On the night of the 30th there was a tre-
mendous storm of wind and rain. We got up at
3.30 a.m., and they piled stones round the tents,
which stood it pretty well.

" We paid a visit to Mr. Jackson Eldridge, the
Consul-General of Syria, at the convent, and rode
along the lake where stood Magdala, Capernaum,
and Bethsaida, up deep ravines in the mountains
to Safed, >vhere there is a splendid view from the
ruins of the castle. The temperature was very
cool.

" Two days' riding in the mountains brought

1872] DAMASCUS III

us by the sources of the River Jordan to Banias —
the ancient Caesar ea-Philippi.

' ' We ascended the Mount of the Transfiguration.
Alec Yorke got very exhausted with all this
riding, and could not accompany us. When we
returned, he said he had killed sixty fleas in his
tent during our absence, and wanted to shift the
camp, which, of course, was then impossible.

" Our next halt was at Hasbreiya, a town of the
Druses. We skirted round the foot of Mount
Hermon to Rasheiya, and coming down the ravines
where the Turks lost many men in their recent
attacks on the Druses got on the French high-
road from Beyrout to Damascus, and riding along-
side the river of Abana arrived there on April 6th
and put up at a bad hotel, Dimitri's.

" The first view of Damascus is lovely and
the city thoroughly Oriental. We saw a fine old
triumphal arch, the street called ' Straight,' the
House of Judas, the House of Ananias, the wall
where St. Paul was let down, the scene of his
conversion, the tombs of the massacred Chris-
tians, the Tomb of St. George, the Tomb of the
head of St. John the Baptist. We rode round
the walls of the city, and spent much time in the
bazaars. I met Lady EUenborough, who had
married a sheikh and lives at Damascus. After
three days spent at this most attractive spot, we
rode up the splendid gorges of the Anti-Lebanon
Mountains, amid the grand waterfalls of the
Barada, and on the second evening arrived at
Baalbek, the ancient Heliopolis, with its mag-
nificent ruins of the Temples of Jupiter, Apollo,

112 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

and Venus, and the three gigantic stones, the
placing of which it is impossible to understand.
There are also ruins of statues and mosques.
Hence we attempted to reach the Cedars of
Lebanon ; but the weather became so bad, cold,
with mist and^snow, that, having discovered we
had all had enough of it, we determined to turn
back.

" My horse had got a sore back, so I had re-
course to a mule. We had a row at Baalbek, as
nothing would induce him to jump a little ditch.
He paid me off on our ride down the mountains.
He suddenly disappeared from under me, and I
slipped back over his tail into deep slush and
mud.

" We had a long day, as the village where we
should have stopped was inhabited by a hostile
tribe, and we had to push on to a Christian village,
Kerak Nu, where is the reputed tomb of Noah.

" Our tents were too wet to be pitched, so we
all got into a big room, which was very comfort-
able after the snow and slush, and got dinner at
midnight,

"After a short ride on the i6th we caught
the Damascus diligence at Shtdra, and crossing
Lebanon arrived at Beyrout, to find a delicious
change of climate, fine and warm, and put up
at a very good hotel.

" We remained at Beyrout until the 22nd. The
place is very pretty, and I enjoyed the quiet tiine
there. There is nothing so ideal, in theory, as
a riding tour; few things more disagreeable in
practice.

1872] CYPRUS AND RHODES 113

" We embarked in the very crowded and most
uncomfortable Austrian-Lloyd steamer Venus —
two meals a day at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Coffee at
6 a.m.; tea at 8 p.m. In twelve hours we got to
Larnaca in Cyprus, I landed to have a bathe.
I had to wade out a long way to get into deep
water, and was roused by people shouting at me
from the shore. The idea of sharks suggested
itself to me, and I got back as fast as I could, to
find that my fear was fully justified. The bay is
very open. We got to Rhodes at 4 a.m. on the
25th, a very pretty island.

" We visited the barracks of the Knights of
Malta and what is called the House of St. John.
We passed a delightful day — calm and hot; —
steaming through the Archipelago. We stopped
at Scio, the island I was afterwards to visit during
the terrible earthquakes, and the lightship placed
where we had run aground in H.M.S. CuruQoa in
1858.

" I had not been to bed since Beyrout. We
were five in a cabin six feet square, so I slept on
a couch in the saloon, and enjoyed a Turkish
bath when we landed at Smyrna on the 26th.
The hotel was closed, but we were comfortably
lodged.

" The next day the passengers engaged a
special train at 6 a.m. to visit Ephesus. We
stopped at Mitylene and Tenedos, and entered the
Dardanelles at noon on the 28th. We stopped
at Sultanieh and Gallipoli, and anchored at the
Golden Horn on the 29th, finding cold, wintry
weather."

114 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Constantinople,

April 30th, 1872.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

We arrived here yesterday, having had
the calmest of voyages, but, as I told you in my
letter from Smyrna, in a very good but very
crowded steamer. Our expedition to Ephesus
was very successful. There is not much to see
there in the way of ruins, considering what the
magnitude of the place must have been, as the
destruction has been inconceivably great. While
we were lunching on the grass there, an American
got up and said, "I guess these ruins are not
to be compared with our trees in the Yosemite
Valley"!

This place seems quite European after the more
really Oriental places we have been to lately. The
change, even since I was here in '58, is marvellous.
So much has been burnt down and European
houses and boulevards erected on the ruins of old
Stamboul. Instead of a few steamers starting
regardless of time when they happened to be full,
there are innumerable boats going off at regular
hours and discharging volumes of blackest smoke.

I went up the Bosphorus to Therapia with
Hobart Pasha one day, who is in charge of the
Turkish Fleet. We were in his steam yacht
Hawk, which ran aground opposite Therapia.
Hobart did not wish the Turks to see his mishap,
so we anchored and spent the night on board.
He insisted on my occupying the captain's cabin,
but as my sleep was disturbed by other inhabi-
tants I retired to the saloon for the night, much
to the Pasha's concern.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

i872] SOCIETY IN VIENNA 115

" We embarked on the 7th in the Austrian-
Lloyd paddle steamer Vulcan, reaching Varna in
fifteen hours. From thence we went by Rust-
chuk to Pesth, and then on to Vienna, where I
had the experience of the very exclusive Viennese
society, so different from that of London. One is
introduced to every one one meets at dinner or at
an evening party. The married ladies sit in one
rbom, the young ladies at a round table in an-
other. This rush into the vortex of society, after
our rough, rural life in the East, was rather try-
ing. I suppose I ought to look on it as very
complimentary to my required amount of qujkr-
terings.

" We returned to England via Paris, which was
almost deserted and still bore marks of the siege.

"On August 13th the 3rd Grenadiers went to
Blandford for the first army manoeuvres on a
grand scale.

" On September 15th I went to Scotland and
stayed with the Airlies at the Tulchan of Glenisla
and Lord Fife at Mar Lodge. The weather was
very wintry. On September 23rd Macduff was
to go at the head of the Mar Clan to meet the
Prince and Princess of Wales at the march of the
Mar Forest with Blair Athol, on their first visit
to Abergeldie, after H.R.H.'s severe illness. Mac-
duff was very shy in those days, and nothing would
induce him to go, and I had to start in snow in
charge of the Mar Clan, and receive T.R.H. at
the march. They arrived with Athole and his
clan, and were duly received.

" The romance of the scene was somewhat

Ii6 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

marred by two or three tourists, who, concealed in
the heather, shouted their welcome and drank
to the health of T.R.H. Athole and I walked on
either side of the Princess on her pony, the Prince
offering to carry my stalking coat on his saddle.
He was contiijually dropping it in the snow and
slush, which afforded occasion for his well-known
chuckle. It is curious after this episode that
Macduff should have become the husband of
Princess Louise of Wales.

" The weather continued very rough. On Sep-
tember 30th the Prince came over with Charlie
Beresford and Teesdale for a deer drive. The
Prince, Macduff, Dalrymple, Beresford, and I
were the guns. We shot seven stags, of which
I got two.

" On the 25th I went abroad, passing through
the Mont Cenis for the first time."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

January 24th, 1873.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

I got to Turin in twenty-four hours from
Paris on Wednesday, and David Crichton joined
me immediately afterwards. I passed Mont Cenis
very successfully; it is a wonderful thing —
twenty-eight minutes in the tunnel, going a good
rate. There are odd noises at times, and we*
stopped in the middle, which might have made
some people nervous !

Naples,
February lyth, 1873.

We came here on Saturday. Rome was very
pleasant. I saw a good deal again and some
new things. I dined out a good deal and went

1873] ATHENS 117

to a good many balls. I was able to endure the
cotillon, as I danced it with my agreeable Com-
tesse Wittgenstein, who knew everything about
everybody. Everybody thought Prince Arthur
most comme il faut; he flirted with the right
people and was most popular, thoroughly enjoy-
ing himself — all in the right way. I think Italy
has an ordinary climate in winter. We had a
very cold drive to Herculaneum and Pompeii
to-day, and were blinded with dust and a very
hot sun.

Athens,
February 28th, 1873.

I wrote you a line from Brindisi, which I left
the same night for Corfu. Nothing can be more
lovely than Corfu, which we left after a three days'
stay, coming here by sea round Cape Matapan.
It was very hot and the sea like glass, with lovely
scenery along the coast and through the Ionian
Islands. I found Victor looking well and Agneta
flourishing ; they had an evening party the night
I arrived — lots of music, whist, and cigarettes in
a second room.

The Victors have just returned from a dinner
where they were invaded in the evening by people
in masks and dominoes, which is the custom during
the carnival here. The beauty of the scenery,
before everything is burnt up, is too enchanting.
I had a long walk to-day with the guide who was
taken with poor F. Vyner and the others by the
brigands. He gave me a most detailed account
of it all. There are now no brigands in Athens,
and I intend going to Marathon next week.

Athens,
March 8th, 1873.

I have not much to tell you since I last wrote,
as we have done little beyond walking and driving

9

ii8 THE HOLY LAND AND GREECE [chap, vi

in the neighbourhood. Sometimes we spend a day
at the Piraeus and sail about the Bay of Salamis
in the ship's boats. I have dined out several
times, and have had some of the Rapid's ofi&cers
to dinner, so there is enough society, and whist in
the evening. The first time I went to the Palace
I was three h(iurs with the King and Queen. They
were most civil, showing me their rooms, children,
horses, etc., and asked me to spend the same
evening with them. He seems a capital fellow,
and the Queen is very pretty and full of fun.
The Palace is very fine and their rooms most
comfortable, but I imagine their lives must be
painfully dreary and monotonous. They seem
very devoted and happy and most domestic.

I start on the i6th with David Crichton for
Corinth and Corfu. We hope to kill a wild boar
in Albania.

When the Victors were at Corfu, the chaplain
complained to Victor of the flirtation carried on
between one of the officers of the Rafid and his
daughter. Victor wisely replied that he could not
exercise control over the love affairs of his officers.

One day the lieutenant, being unable to go
ashore, asked another officer to leave cards for him
on the captain's wife and on his young lady. On
the latter card was a message of love and a moon-
light rendezvous. The officer unfortunately left
the cards at the wrong addresses, and Agneta
rushed to Victor horrified at the advances of the
officer !

Corfu,
* March i&th.

My last week at Athens was very busy. On
Monday I went with the King and Queen, Victor,
and Prince and Princess Frederick in a char-a-banc,
the rest following in six or seven carriages, to Jatoe,
a place the King is making in the mountains for

i873] THE KING AND QUEEN OF GREECE 119

the summer. We had a great lunchedn in a tent
and lots of skylarking and walking abdut up in
the woods in the mountains.

On Tuesday I went with Victor in the Rapid
to the mines of Laurium ; we got back in time
to dine with their Majesties at Athens, Friday
N'ety and I drove to Marathon. We were obliged
to give notice to the Government that we were
going, but I kept it dark till the last moment, and
so the escort missed us and we drove off alone.
We had the same guide that F. Vyner, etc., had
when taken, and a mounted gendarme rode on to
warn the detachment of infantry stationed in that
part of the country. It was very sad, but most
interesting. Going home we had an escort of ten
cavalry, four in front, four at the rear, and two
on either side of the carriage, besides a body of
infantry who joined us at the place — rather a
contrast to our solitary drive out ! Saturday
afternoon I spent with the King and Queen, and
our leavetaking was quite affecting! I don't
think I was ever on such friendly terms with any
people after so short an acquaintance, and they
are both charming people — she is quite lovely. I
had a long conversation with the King ; he spoke
of the difficulties of his position with only one
chamber of Parliament.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

• CHAPTER VII

A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA

After his return from Gibraltar, Lord Hinchingbrooke
had an interval of London gaieties, and took part in
the reception of the Shah of Persia. He was present
at his arrival at Dover, was on the guard of honour
when he visited the Queen at Windsor, heard Patti
and Albani sing in the gala performance at Co vent
Garden, aiid witnessed the Naval Review at Spithead.
When the Shah took leave of the Queen, he mentions
an amusing incident. The carriage containing the
Shah and Prince Leopold drove off in state, but was
stopped after a few yards by the local photographer,
who " poked the Shah's face about " whilst arranging
him. The troops were convulsed with laughter, and
the Queen and her ladies, who witnessed the depar-
ture, were "immensely amused.

Shortly after Lord Hinchingbrooke won the hundred
yards officers' race at the battalion sports — an event
which ended his racing career.

In September he was at Hinchingbrooke, where
a merry party was assembled. Miss Mary Boyle
organised an exhibition of moving wax figures, in
which Lord Hinchingbrooke appeared as the Duke
of Marlborough. Miss Boyle made her figures laugh
so much that she brought down the curtain, saying
that something, had gone wrong with the machinery.

The Diary

"On January 13th, 1874, I started with Uncle
Sydney, Henry Byng, and Sir J. Cowell on the

Embassy from the Queen to represent Her Majesty

120

1874] BISMARCK ON RUSSIA 121

at the marriage of the Duke of Edinburgh with
the Grand Duchess Marie of Russia at St.
Petersburg.

" We stayed a night at Brussels and reached
Berlin at 7 a.m. on the 15th. The day was spent
in Royal visits and leaving cards. We dined at
five o'clock with the Crown Prince and Princess,
and I had a long talk with Bismarck about Russia.
He speaks very slowly, and at first I thought
that he had a difiiculty in expressing himself in
English. I soon found that I had nothing to teach
him in respect of the English language.

" The Emperor received me with the words,
' Ach, ein alter Freund ! ' The Empress had the
habit of always herself answering the questions
she addressed to you, so there were no pauses in
the conversation.

" The following day I visited the Crown Prince
and Princess. I sat between the future Kaiser
Wilhelm and his brother Prince Henry, and what-
ever the one said the other contradicted."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Berlin,
January lyth, 1874.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

We had the finest, calmest passage ever
known in January. The first evening that we
were here we dined with the Crown Prince at five,
and went to the French play in the evening.
Yesterday we had an audience of the Emperor
and Empress at 5.30. The dear old Emperor was
very civil and quite remembered me here in old
days. He has seen nobody since his illness, and

122 A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA [chap, vil

appeared for the first time in uniform. He is
wonderfully altered, thin and shrunken, and, I
expect, not long for this world. We had an
audience of the Empress afterwards in another
room and dined with her at six. Bismarck dined
both evenings and was very civil, telling me a
good deal abqjit St. Petersburg. It was the first
time he had dined at the Crown Prince's for years,
and it was considered quite an event. He was
very amusing at the Palace last night — arrived
late and behaved like a sort of royalty. They
say the Empress hates him, but that the Crown
Prince and Princess have come round to him.
They all seem to be worshipping the rising sun
(son!). They tell me that the policy is to unite
all German-speaking races into the Empire, that
the minor German powers, and even the Austrian
provinces, will be eventually absorbed into the
German Empire. They are not at all pleased
with the ease with which France has paid the
indemnity for the war — in short, that the atmo-
sphere is by no means peaceful for the future. At
present the three Emperors and their ministers
understand each other and are working together.
They are perfecting their armaments and organisa-
tion here, and the army can be mobilised and
ready for war in twelve days !

We go to the Crown Princess before dining with
the Odos to-night, and start at eleven for St.
Petersburg.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

" We arrived at St. Petersburg on January i8th
at 8 p.m. Uncle Sydney was lodged at the Winter
Palace; we were at the Bellevue Hotel, which
was taken for the suites. I found Lady Suffield,
Lady Emily Kingscote, Oliver, Arthur Ellis, C.

i874] "MONTAGNES RUSSES" 123

Teesdale, and Francis KnoUys, the suite of the
Prince and Princess of Wales.

" We each of us had our own carriage sledge
and Imperial servant ; mine fortunately came
from Riga and could speak German.

" On the 2ist I went with Prince Arthur to
inspect the Preobrajenski Regiment of Guards
under General Prince Oldenburg in their barracks,
and afterwards lunched with the officers. In the
afternoon we skated at the Taurinsky Palace,
which is outside the city, situated on the shore of
a large lake, where the ice is kept in splendid con-
dition for skating by the troops. Huge ' Montagues
Russes' are constructed, down which you are
taken in little sledges on the ice, with a man to
steer. The slide is very precipitous, and, on
reaching the bottom, the impetus takes you across
the whole lake and up to a hill of ice at the far end.
There are also hills of ice, down which my efforts
in skating usually found me on my back on
reaching the level. In the evening we went to
hear Patti in Dinorah.

" The marriage took place on January 23rd.
We assembled at twelve o'clock with the Corps
Diplomatique in the Alexander Hall of the Winter
Palace, and were conducted to the Greek Chapel.
The service, during which all stood, began ati.15.

" The Emperor led the bride and bridegroom
to the pfie-Dieu before the altar. Prince Arthur,
the Grand Dukes Serge, Vladimir, and Alexis held
crowns over their heads and marched three times
round the altar.

"The ceremony was very impressive; after

124 A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA [chap, vii

which we proceeded to a huge room, where the
EngUsh service was celebrated by Dean Stanley
of Westminster, the simplicity ' of which was a
great contrast to the gorgeous Greek ceremony.
Two hymns were sung in Russian.

" The banquet took place at 5 p.m. Covers
were laid for 927 in one hall. The admiral who
had charge of us took me to see the lighting of
the hall, which was very extraordinary. All the
candles in the candelabra were connected with
strings, along which the fire ran very rapidly. The
royalties sat at a high table, and were waited upon
by the chamberlains and courtiers. There was one
servant to every three guests. Patti, Albani, and'
Graziana sang during dinner from a gallery. There
were four toasts, at each of which loi-gun salutes
were fired. The dinner lasted one and a quarter
hours. At 8.30 there was a polonaise, i.e. a series
of processions, in each of which we had a new
partner, preceded by the Emperor and his partner
through all the rooms. At 11.30 p.m. the Duke
and Duchess started to spend their three days'
honeymoon at Tsarskoye S elo . I had'spent twelve
hours at the Palace for this Imperial function."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

St. Petersburg,

January 26th, 1874.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

To-day we have eight or ten degrees of
Fahrenheit frost and snowing most of the morning
and all last night ; so it is pretty deep. Break-
fasted in my room; drove in my sledge to the
islands north of the Neva — a more wintry aspect

i874] THE ROYAL WEDDING 125

you cannot imagine — nil nisi ice and snow — we
were wrapped in furs to the eyelids. After lunch
we sledged to the Taurinsky Palace to skate, where
we met the Prince of Wales, Uncle Sydney, and lots
of English. I came down the biggest ' Montagne
Russe' on a small iron seat — the Princess did
ditto in a chaise, but many people funked doing it
at all. We dined with Loftus at five o'clock ; all
the English there — about thirty-six. I sat be-
tween Lady Augusta Stanley and Aylesford. At
eight o'clock we assembled at the opera for the gala
performance. All the foreign suites were in boxes
close to the Royal Box, but Uncle Sydney was in
the Royal Box, where I fear he did not see well, as
the royalties were two deep. The Emperor led
in the bride and bridegroom, and there was a great
row of ' hoch,' or some such word. Everybody
was there by invitation ; the people in the stalls
and parterre were glittering with jewels and
covered with orders. The Corps Diplomatique
was on the opposite side to us pn the grand tier.
There was an adjournment to a sitting-down
tea, etc., between the acts, with the royalties,
and we seized the moment to be introduced to
the smaller fry of grand dukes, etc., who take it
as an insult if one js not presented. Yesterday
morning I went with Uncle Sydney to the Hermit-
age to see the pictures, and in the afternoon we
had a sort of ' court ' at the Palace and were
received by the Edinburghs. The Corps Diplo-
matique, the foreigners, and Russian ladies of the
first three grades (!) were received. Imagine this
after their three days' honeymoon : poor little
thing, she did it wonderfully well. In the evening
we dined with Gortschakoff . The Empress has not
appeared since the marriage, but I suppose she
will at the great ball to-morrow, when 1,800 are to
sit down to supper together. The magnificence

126 A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA [chap, vii

of the Court here is really astounding. Inter-
course with the Russians is rather unsatisfactory.
A few are charming, but one does not get beyond
civilities and handshakes. In some ways they
are very uncivilised, and I avoid their suppers,
where they force wine down your throat till
2 and 3 a.m. X have met the Princess of "Wales
and the Tsarevna two or three times lately to
speak to ; they are real ducks both together,
I like the Danish Crown Prince very much. One
never sees the Germans except in state.

St. Petersburg,

January 31st, 1874.

We are just come in from an expedition in
troikas {i.e. sledges with three horses). We went
round the islands, where people live in summer,
and down by the sea. Last night we were at the
Tsarevitch's ball. I liked it pretty well. You do
not engage partners for valses, but take a turn
with anybody. The ball principally consists of
two mazurkas — or cotillons — with other dances
introduced. I valsed with the Duchess of Edin-
burgh, Princess of Wales, and the Duchess of Olden-
burg, a very nice little woman who was in England
last year;

The time here is spent in sledging about, and
skating is one's only exercise. In the afternoon
I fly down ' Montagnes Russes.' Thursday I
went with the Prince of ^ales. Prince Arthur,
etc., to see the Fire Brigade, and afterwards to see
the Cossacks manoeuvre in the Manege — a sort of
gigantic Astley' s. There was a lot of firing and the
most marvellous equestrian feats, but both from a
military point of view.

Ever your affectionate

H.

"On the 31st we went, a large party in troikas,

1874] VISIT TO CRONSTADT 127

to the islands, and at night to a ball given by
the nobility, at which we looked on from a large
Imperial box.

" On February ist, after a service at the English
Church, I visited the Imperial Library with Uncle
Sydney. We dined with the Emperor : over two
thousand guests.

" Prince Arthur had invited me to go with him
to Cronstadt on the morrow, but told me that he
could not go, as he was invited to dine with the
Grand Duke Constantine. I happened to mention
my disappointment to Prince Orloff, one of the
Emperor's A.D.C.s. When I got home from
the opera that night, I received a note, with a
message from the Emperor inviting me to go' to
Cronstadt and saying that all arrangements had
been made, and that I was to be at the railway
station at 9 a.m. It was then too late to find any
others to come with me, and accordingly I found
myself alone at the station at 9 a.m. Received
by the railway authorities and escorted to a
saloon carriage, where I hoped to have one and
a half hour's peaceful repose on my journey to
Oranienbaum. I was settling down when I saw
a Russian officer saluting at the carriage door. I
invited him into the carriage. He introduced
himself as Captain 'N. Rikatoschaff, R.N., and
apologised for being in undress uniform, that he
was on leave in St. Petersburg, and that he only
received orders at 3 a.m. from the Emperor to
escort me to Cronstadt. On arrival at Oranien-
baum I was received by Rear-Admiral M. A.
Fedorowski and his staff, and we proceeded in

128 A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA [chap, vii

sledges, each with three horses, which galloped
across the sea to the Commander-in-Chief , Admiral
Kozakevisty, Government House, at Cronstadt.
We visited the docks, the ships Peter the Great
and Sebastopol in course of construction, the club,
and the librarj^. I lunched with the Governor,
a regular dinner with champagne, at which all the
heads of departments were present. Most of the
officers could speak either English, French, or
German. The Governor, next to whom I was
placed, could only speak Russian. After this
sumptuous repast I continued my tour with the
Admiral and his FlagXaptain Asloubegoff to
various ships and to the Arsenal, where amongst
the trophies I espied an English ensign. When
I recognised and inquired the history of the flag,
they told me it belonged to H.M.S. Tiger, which
the Russians took off Odessa during the Crimean
War. We walked on board the ships from the
ice, which is frequently broken all round the
ships to free them from the pressure.

"I was asked whether I should prefer to visit
some of the forts in the Gulf, or the barracks
where the sailors are quartered during the winter.
It was bitterly cold, and I preferred the latter.
On the chance of my visit everything was prepared
for a minute inspection : bands playing, drill,
schools, kitchens, rifle practice, and 2,000 sailors.
As I entered each room the officer in charge
reported in Russian, to which I had to make a
Russian reply.'

" I returned by sledge to Oranienbaum, and
train to St. Petersburg, after a very interesting day.

18743 THE BARING EMERALDS 129

'" After hearing Albani in the Linda di Chamonix,
I went to a ball at the British Embassy till
3 a.m. It was very cold sledging home at night,
and I was very grateful for the fur coat which
Revelstoke had lent me.

" When our sledges came in the morning, they
remained out until we finally went home at night.

"One day I did not want my sledge for the
greater part of the day, and told the driver he could
go home till the evening. He did not then turn
up, so I said I should report him. He and my
servant came imploring for mercy. They said he
would be sent for life to Siberia. I need hardly
say that I thought this punishment somewhat
excessive, and forgave him ; but I was told that
it was impossible to send them home when not
required, as they invariably got too drunk to
return, and that the mistake was mine.

" When Lady Suf&eld came home after one of
the balls, she left the famous Baring emeralds on
a table in the room adjoining her bedroom. In
the morning they were gone. We were told
that some one had called to see me, and that
this person, of whom I had no knowledge, was
supposed to be the thief. We were told by the
staff of the Emperor who were attached to us
that there would be no fear as to their not being
recovered. When Lady Suffield returned from
Moscow, she found them in a parcel on her table.
Nobody would tell us how this was brought
about. The Emperor of Russia exercises un-
bounded power.
" Our last day was devoted to farewell visits

I30 A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA [chap, vii

and the leaving of innumerable cards, and to a
leave-taking audience of the Emperor and Em-
press. We finally attended a great ball given by
the Grand Duke Nicholas in a magnificent palace,
at which I danced the cotillon with Countess
Schouvaloff.

" On February 4th the Emperor and all his
guests started for Moscow. To my great disap-
pointment. Queen Victoria ordered our return to
England, instead of going to Moscow.

" We arrived at Berlin at 6 a.m. on the 6th
and stayed at the Hotel Royal, We breakfasted
with the Odo Russells, had an audience with the
Emperor, whom we found much better, dined
with the Empress, and went in the evening to the
British Embassy.

" We arrived in England on February 9th. On
the 12th I was on duty in the Mall when the
Edinburghs made their entry into London with
the Queen and Princess Beatrice.

" On April 21st I attended the first meeting
of the Huntingdon Conservative Association and
was elected President.

" Political changes were rapidly developing.
In former days the Earl of Sandwich virtually re-
turned the two members for Huntingdon to the
House of Commons. Not very many years ago
he sometimes received remuneration for the
nomination to a safe seat in Parliament. In my
young days my father's choice of the two mem-
bers was not disputed. Latterly, when the repre-
sentation was reduced to one member, now Sir
John Karslake, the question of the choice of the

i874] IN THE LONG VALLEY I3i

candidate arose. The idea of a political associa-
tion came into prominence ; my father declined
as a peer to be president, but curiously enough
the electors were determined that I should accept
the post, and although I was adverse to taking
any part in politics I reluctantly accepted the
office, and I became president and chairman.

" On May 19th I acted as Quartermaster-
General to Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar at
the review of 15,000 troops at Aldershot by the
Queen in honour of the Emperor of Russia. The
Prince commanded the ist Division, consisting
of four battalions of Guards, four battaUons of
Fusiliers, four battalions of Highlanders.

"After the inspection and march past, the divi-
sion formed up in line in the Long Valley, while
the cavalry were manoeuvring before the Queen.
The review was to be as short as possible, and all
we had to do was to advance in line when the
coast was clear. Nothing would induce the Prince
to give the word. I begged him to do so.

"The three brigadiers came and implored him.
No, he was obdurate, with his well-known chuckle.
I nearly tumbled off from laughter. At last the
general in command galloped down from the
Queen and we got under weigh.

" On May 25th I commenced duty at Beggars'
Bush Barracks, Dublin. I had bought a Russian
horse, Alexis, as charger. General Holdich was
in command of the garrison.

" On the 30th we fired a /^m de joie in the Phoenix
in honour of the Queen's birthday. My horse
bolted at each round.

132 A STATE VISIT TO RUSSIA [chap, vii

" Mapleson's opera company was in Dublin. I
dined with the Edward Guinnesses to nieet Titiens,
De Reszke, and Mapleson. Titiens asked me to
accompany her in Gounod's Ave Maria, and I
have always regretted that I was too modest to
do so. I thin^ she was, on the whole, the finest
artist I have ever heard and so simple and un-
affected.

" On September 3rd I went via Belfast and
Greenock and the Crinan Canal to Arisaig, which
the E. Barings had taken with the B. Mildmays.
A charming house in a lovely country. I had
excellent stalking in a very easy forest, and de-
lightful expeditions in a steam yacht, and salmon
and trout fishing in the lochs.

" We went over to Skye to see Lady Macdonald
and her very pretty daughter.

" On the 22nd I went on to Mar Lodge. We
used to go up to the sheelings in the forest for
stalking. I stayed alone for some days at the
Beldie Sheeling and some days with Macduff at
the Derry Sheeling. The weather was very bad
and sport indifferent. I came to the conclusion
that there is a deal of truth in the old story as
to whether you are sent out for a stalk or a walk.
The great object of all stalkers is to keep the deer
in their own forest, and so to work the ground as
to afford the best sport to their own employers.
I think they act up to their principle, which, how-
ever praiseworthy, is sometimes detrimental to
the sport of visitors. They are apt to look upon
their own job as beyond the comprehension of
those they accompany, which is not surprising,

i874] A WALK OR A STALK 133

as their whole lives are devoted to the study of
the forest. Thoroughly to enjoy deer-stalking,
own the forest.

" While shooting with my father at Hooke, I
received the invitation from General Sir Fenwick
Williams of Kars to become his military secre-
tary at Gibraltar in succession to Philip Smith,
which I accepted. Edward Birkbeck, Victor, and
E. Antrobus were the other guns, Antrobus hav-
ing come on my invitation. This was the first
occasion of my being asked to bring a guest to
shoot with my father, and the consequences were
not very fortunate.

"The coverts are very hilly and the ground
very uneven. You sometimes shoot down at a
pheasant and up at a rabbit. My father's move-
ments were somewhat erratic, and he appeared at
the end of a beat with his face covered with blood,
caused by shot from Antrobus' s gun. Fortunately
the damage was very slight. On the following
day Antrobus was toucbed up by a shot from my
father, with equally mild consequences, but the
double event was luckily ridiculous instead of
serious. '

" On the 29th Agneta presented Victor with a
son, born in Halkin Street, and the family with
an heir presumptive."

10

CHAPTER VIII

»

a mission to fez

The Diary

"On January 14th, 1875, I left London for
Gibraltar. Philip came to Southampton to see
me off in the P. & O. Cathay. We had very-
rough weather and a heavy sea in the Bay, but
fine and calm along the coast of Portugal, and
reached Gibraltar at 9 p.m. on the 19th, where
the Governor's staff met me. I took up my
abode in the official quarters close to the Convent.
I brought out two dogs with me, Vi, a dachshund
and Rock, a retriever.

" I had known my chief, the Governor, Sir
Fenwick Williams of Kars, well in Canada, where
he was Commander-in-Chief when I was there
with the Prince of Wales. My earliest recollec-
tions of him were as one of the heroes of the
Crimean days in his gallant defence of Kars.

" His difficulties and disagreements with my
former chief at Constantinople, Lord Stratford de
Redcliffe, at that time, are matters of history, and
it is curious that I should have served under
both these distinguished men who were at such
variance with each other.

" The weather was delightful — like a fine Eng-
lish summer.

134

i875] THE START I35

" On March 29th I left Gibraltar to accompany
Sir John Drummond Hay on his mission to the
Emperor of Morocco.

" The officers from Gibraltar were Colonel
Laffan, C.R.E., Lake, R.A., Beamish, R.E., ancj
Dr. HoUoway. Lady and Miss Hay, Mr. and
Mrs. Brooks, and Moreland were also of the party.
My horse from Gibraltar did not arrive in time
for me to start with the others from Tangier, as a
strong levanter was blowing, and I remained at
Tangier with my cousin, George Paget, who was
domiciled there and enjoyed life among the Moors.

" The mission started on the 30th. I did not
get off till the ist, with my baggage 'on three
mules, two Moors and my Spanish servant, my
Moorish soldier, George Paget, and his interpreter
and servants."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Colonel Philip Smith

Fez,
April nth, 1875.

My DEAR Philip,

We hope to get the courier with the mails
to-day, so I send you a line, as he will return
directly, to report my safe arrival here yesterday
at 10 a.m. I started from Tangier two days after
the rest. It blew a hurricane and my horse did
not come, but Warde sent on my Spanish servant
and I hired a horse, which has turned out very
well. George Paget seemed very glad of the
excuse for an outing, and started with me, bringing
his tent, cooking furniture, and two Moorish
servants. I had my soldier servant and three
baggage mules. We started in a levanter hurri-

135 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viii

cane, blowing and raining so that one could
hardly sit on one's horse. We crossed a rocky
range of hills, two or three small rivers, and a long
plain, and camped for the night at about 5.30, as,
the Moors having no idea of time or distance, we
could not discover how far on the mission was.
It rained and* blew, and was by no means easy for
me to pitch a double bell tent, of a new pattern,
without any help, no one else having the least
idea how it was done. We could not get any
forage, but native sheikhs brought in sheep and
chickens, etc. Paget returned to Tangier the
next morning, and my soldier and I got foragte.
You would have been amused to see me having
bread and milk at a village alone with these
Moors. At about twelve o'clock we passed the
encampment of the mission of the night before,
and at four o'clock reached their camp, having
accomplished the four days' journey in two days —
about sixty miles. We have accomplished the
journey here in eight more days very successfully.
The country wonderfully fertile and rich ; a great
deal of it is cultivated, and, where it is not, it is a
mass of flowers. *

At each province the governor met us with a
large escort of cavalry. We travelled over an
immense plain, crossed some ranges of hills and one
large river, when our horses were swum across by
naked Arabs. We and our baggage were con-
veyed across in antediluvian boats. This was a
most extraordinary proceeding and very decolleti
for the ladies. They thought we should have
had to wade ashore, but the Moors overcame
their religious scruples and carried us. This was
the order of the day. Gunfire at 5.30, breakfast
at 6. go, off at 7.30. Sometimes we stopped for
luncheon, pitching a tent, or lunching with the
governor of a province. Sometimes we shot in

18753 ARRIVAL AT FEZ 137

the afternoon, but it is difficult to find the quail
and partridges in the high standing corn. Dinner
at 7.30, bed by ten, in very comfortable teiits.
I never found it too hot, though the sun was
broiling. We had a good many showers and some-
times the nights were bitterly cold, as we were
nearly always on a high plateau. The arrival
yesterday was one of the most extraordinary
sights I have seen.

We were met, some two or three miles from the
town, by all the great officials and a large cavalry
escort. The last mile and a half of the road was
lined with troops, very respectably dressed, the
infantry on one side, the cavalry on the other.
They fired a jeu de joie, carried their arms in every
sort of manner, and about a third presented at the
word of command. Nearly" the whole population
turned out and the crowds were immense. I rode
on Sir J.' s right hand and was presented to all the
swells. A holy man {i.e. half niad) had great
effect with the people, riding before us, to disarm
fanaticism. Soldiers ran on foot before us, and
whacked any one in the way most unmercifully.
Powder-play charged right at us ; the cavalry
did mounted police very well, but the heat and
noise were indescribable. Drums were stationed
at intervals, and, near the gates, was the Sultan's
private band, which , has never played before
except in his honour. All tlie women were
congregated in dense masses on two hills over-
hanging the road near the town. When we got
into the outer line of walls, there was a lull, the
streets there being so narrow that there was no
room for a mob. The houses, however, were full
of staring people and the roofs covered with
women ; and so we arrived at our Moorish house,
which is just like the Alhambra, with the usual
tiles, fountains, lace-work, arches, gardens full of

138 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viii

orange and lemon trees. There are no wdndows,
but enormous doors with muslin hanging across.
The view from the top of the house is lovely ;
one sees gardens and white houses surrounded by-
massive walls, with the mountains all round the
town, but the minarets are not so pretty as at
Damascus} nor does the country look so hot. I
have found the people very good-humoured and
civil, but some are fanatical, and we cannot go
out except attended by soldiers.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Fez,
April nth, 1875.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

We arrived here yesterday, all being well.
Sir John Hay has certainly very great power here.
The Sultan is in the habit of complying with all
his wishes, as far as he can, but you cannot
imagine what a country this is, or what a wretched
government it has. He has certainly unbounded
confidence in Sir John, and from the enthusiastic
reception we had yesterday, both he and the
people wish to do him honour. Not a Christian
lives in the country, except on the coast ; and as
the natives are the most bigoted and fanatical
Mohammedans, you can imagine what they think
of us. We are protected by guards at every turn,
and two soldiers sleep at my door. As you know,
I have seen Oriental countries, but never anything
as uncivilised as this. The Arabs evidently take
life exactly as they did in the times of the Patri-
archs. We have been fed all the way by the gifts
of the different governors, by order of the Sultan.
They bring in any amount of sheep, chicken,
butter, milk, bread, eggs, daily. The town is

1875] IN a'HE SULTAN'S GARDEN 139

beautifully situated in the ravine between two
hills, through which a river runs, which, like at
Damascus, is diverted into my house. There are
gardens and orange groves everywhere and in-
numerable fountains. We are of course stared
at like wild beasts. Our reception yesterday was
indescribable. I never saw such a scene ; all
the troops were out fully armed, and such a crowd.

Ever your affectionate

HlNCH.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Colonel Philip Smith

Fez,
April lyth, 1875.

My dear Philip,

I went yesterday to a kiosk in the Sultan's
garden where he was to be. After spending two
or three hours there he sent to say that he was
prevented coming. I amused myself very well
meanwhile, as I discovered two Germans and one
French deserter, and learnt a great deal by their
conversation. The Germans had deserted after
the war with France ; their details of the battle-
fields were very amusing, and so were their sub-
sequent adventures in Algiers and Morocco. They
are now in the Sultan's retinue, one ranking as an
officer and the other as his servant. They live
together on equal terms and share alike. I am
taking letters to their friends, who have not heard
from them since the war, and I hope to be able to
get them out of the country in time. The French-
man has lived here twenty years ; he is a native
of Var. He likes the free life, has lost one Arab
wife, and taken another aged seventeen, he being
sixty. He makes lots of money making bracelets,
etc., and seems to be in the employ of the Sultan.
They all had to declare themselves Mohammedans

140 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viii

and adopt the dress, but have not had to attend
any further ceremonies.

To-day we visited the Rabbi in the Jewish
quarter. The whole Jewish population turned out
in all their finery ; the women were dressed in
splendidly embroidered garments — one girl was
lovely. The Moors ill-use them out of their own
quarters, s6 they keep " themselves to them-
selves."

I have just had a most lovely ride with a Moorish
caid ; everything savouring muclh of the Arabian
Nights. We dined on Thursday with the Grand
Vizier ; Sir John was unwell, so I went as the
chief and squatted on a cushion next to that of the
Vizier. Miss Hay interpreted during dinner, and
afterwards the ladies went to the harem and the
men smoked in the court., We never ceased con-
versing through an interpreter, and I was much
amused. The Vizier was most ignorant of the
world in general, except that he had been to
Mecca. My travels in the East helped me im-
mensely.

We start on the 2oth for Mequinez.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Fez,
April iQth, 1875.

Many thanks for your letter, which came from
Tangier by a courier on foot, who accomplishes
the 160 miles in five or six days ; not bad going.
I feel rather like a prisoner, the house and garden
being surrounded by a high wall, which one cannot
see over without going on the roof, which men are
not supposed to do, as the women all appear on
the roof unveiled. I went up with my head dis-
guised as a woman, and they did not suspect me.

i875] A WONDERFUL SIGHT 141

We cannot move without a guard of soldiers.
The rides about are lovely beyond description.
Sometimes I go outside the walls and lie under the
trees, but have to go through part of the town to
get there, and the people stare and follow after in
great numbers. They are very civil, but it is a
bore in the dust and heat. This morning we have
seen an extraordinary sight. A great feast has
begun, which Christians at Tangier advised us to
avoid. However, the Sultan invited us to come,
and said that he asked all his people to i see the
honour with which he received us, in order that
they might be inspired with the same friendly
feelings. We went in full uniform, attended by
a guard of honour, and rode to a hill outside the
town. The Sultan said we were to go wherever
we liked, so we took up a position on a hill above
him and moved parallel with him as he gradually
advanced. Deputations from all the tribes of the
empire were received and blessed by him ; most
of them were mounted — the wildest conceivable
men — but some of the Riffs were on foot. They
shouted salutations as they left him and fired
their guns into the air. The whole scene was
beautiful. Below us was a long slope, on which
were the Sultan, his troops and their standards,
the court, the princes, the army — an enormous
crowd of people ; beyond was Fez, with its walls,
gardens and groves, and the minarets of the Sultan's
palace ; on our right, a vast plain, high tableland,
with hills beyond ; in the far distance, the Atlas
Mountain, with its highest peaks covered with
snow. All this in a bright, hot, still morning, with
a blazing sun.'

After the Sultan had received all the tribes, he
rode round the ground on a white Arab with purple
trappings ; his artillery, eight pieces of various
calibre drawn by a pair of horses, two mountain

142 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viil

guns on mules, the Royal Standard and innumer-
able banners, running soldiers, spearmen, execu-
tioners and slaves, followed after — he alone riding,
with the exception of the umbrella bearer, who
held aloft a huge green velvet umbrella ornamented
with gold. We took up a position in the centre
of the ground, and they all passed us, the crowd
being more intent on us than on anything else. I
did not see the slightest sign of incivility, although
I know some of them held their noses and spat as
we passed. Still, when you reflect that no Chris-
tian lives in the country (except at the coast)
and what their feelings towards us are, it is wonder-
ful to think what the Sultan's protection did for us.
Many of them would, no doubt, kill us as soon as
look at us. We have been to dine and breakfast
with the swells. The " Eyebrow" of the Sultan
— a slave who rules the Empire and makes the
ministers nonentities — entertained us one day and
the Governor of Fez another. There was tre-
mendous profusion, forty to fifty dishes, all
tasting of oil and bad butter, but only water to
drink. They give us a table, chairs, knives and
forks, so they cannot eat with us. The only excep-
tion was the Governor of Fez, an old man of
eighty-five, who sat at table and ate sponge cake
with a knife and fork. The best fellows here are .
soldiers, who are really intelligent and amusing.
With signs and scraps of Arabic I manage to hold
long conversations with them . To- day a madman ,
whom they revere as holy, rushed about in front
of us, dressed in red, yellow, and olive-coloured
garments, rolling his eyes about and hitting
people right and left. Walking into the town
the other day I noticed the heads of some eight
or ten executed rebels hanging on the gate. At
night these Moorish houses are like scenes at
Cremome or in a play, lanterns hanging about

18753 THE SULTAN'S "EYEBROW" I43

amongst fountains and orange trees. The Moors
sleep out of doors in the open air, all about the
courtyards.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

April 26th.

We are just come in from a curious sight. We
spent the afternoon at a garden of the Sultan's
out of Fez, and on our return went to see the
Sultan himself perform powder-play. It was
indeed well disposed of him to ask us, and the
whole scene was one of the most remarkable I
have ever witnessed. Coming back the crowds
pursued us awfully, lots of the wild tribes being
there. Our escort seemed very much excited
and galloped about to such an extent that I
could not make out if they were in a funk or
not. These fellows are always blazing away with
their guns, and one never knows if there is a bullet
in or not.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscount Sydney

Mequinez,

May jth, 1875.

Dear Uncle Sydney,

I went with Sir John Hay to take leave of
the Sultan, and he received us two quite alone —
the "Eyebrow," i.e. favourite slave, who rules
the country, and the " Lord Chamberlain" remain-
ing out of hearing in the garden. He is very
gentlemanlike in manner and appears to be anxious
for the improvement of his people and country.
To give you an idea of the Court of Morocco, while
we were there one of the principal officers of the
troops displeased the " Eyebrow." He was sent
for by him and then and there bastinadoed b"6fore
everybody. An eye-witness told me that two of

144 A MISSION TO FEZ - [chap, vin

the bodyguard flogged him — two at a time in
succession — till there was no strength left. He
had at least 500 lashes, and when he got up his
face was black and covered with blood. He was
then put in the common gaol, but will shortly
be released and given a command again. We
hope to be at Tangier on Tuesday and at Gib on
the 12th.

The last day we all received presents, — Sir John
a sword, gun, embroidered saddle, etc., and a
horse ; Lady Hay a mule, each of the ladies a
horse, and the men a sword of different values :
niine is a very good one.

We are all delighted to be on the way back
again after three weeks in Fez, where we began
to feel as if we were in prison.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

" On May 14th we Yeturned in the Hercules to
Gibraltar in a very rough sea, and heartily glad
I was to be back.

"In hot weather the troops wore white cap-
covers such as appear in the pictures of battles
in India of the eighteenth century. One of the
first changes it was my object to bring about was
to provide the troops with white helmets such
as are worn in India. The cap-covers were very
unsightly and unserviceable, and the washing of
them was a source of expense to the men. I
induced the Governor to apply for a supply of
/ helmets in lieu of cap-covers, stating that an
imrnediate reply was necessary. We received no
reply, so we ordered the helmets. We subsequently
received a letter from the Adjutant-General,
Lord Airlie, refusing the helmets. He had been

1875] WHITE HELMETS V. CAPS 145

Governor of Gibraltar and did not consider them
necessary. We replied that, not having received
an answer, we had served out the helmets instead
of the cap-covers. A letter then came from the
Adjutant-General, saying the Governor must pay
for them (the expense amounting to some four
figures) . When I had finished reading out to the
Governor the letter of remonstrance I had written
on his behalf in the verandah of the Cottage, the
only remark he made was, " Hinch, while you
have been reading that letter I have counted
no ships and boats in sight." The letter, how-
ever, carried the day, and that was the origin
of the Mediterranean garrisons wearing white
helmets."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Colonel Philip Smith

The Convent, Gibraltar,
June 15th, 1875.

My dear Philip,

I have drawn up a scheme for clothing
which is approved by all, and I cannot conceive
why some bright genius has not done it before.
The men would be clothed in helmets and clothing
suitable to the climate, free of expense to them-
selves, and with a saving of gd. per man to the
Government.

I recommend : Tunic trimmed serge (fresh
annually) , three pairs of trousers for two years, and
helmet. By the arrangement this year the men
are, for the most part, charged £1 $s., which I
consider iniquitous. I would aboHsh white j ackets
and cap-covers — also compensation. If they
must have white jackets, which no one considers
necessary, they should be serge and not the un-
healthy things they have worn and paid for

/

146 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viii

themselves i The cap- covers hitherto worn are
useless, as no protection to working parties and
very expensive for washing, as well as being
most unsightly.

His Excellency is wonderfully well and cheerful.
I think he is very quick at understanding a ques-
tion, and he always backs one up.

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

" The monkeys at Gibraltar were supposed to
be under the care of the Military Secretary. They
were said to number twenty-two in all. I once
saw twelve of them together. A report was sent
to me with great concern that one of the monkeys
chased by a dog had fallen into the sea. I never
divulged my suspicion that the dog belonged to
me.

" The heat became very intense in August, with
a frequent thermometer at 86°, and much as I love
sunshine and heat the cloudless skies 'became
rather monotonous.

" There had been considerable correspondence
oh Sir John Karslake's intention to resign his seat,
and the desire that I should succeed him as M.P.
for Huntingdon, the result being that I left
Gibraltar on August 25 th on leave to England;

" I had a good voyage in the P. & O. Indus ;
calm sea with a long swell. Philip met me on
arrival, and I was heartily glad to be back in
England.

" I went with Philip \p Huntingdon on the 31st
to attend a dinner of 250 and a meeting of the
Conservative Association.

1876] MEMBER FOR HUNTINGDON 147

" On October nth I went to wish the Prince of
Wales good-bye on his departure for India.

" I was shooting with my father at Hinching-
brooke when he received a telegram from Wimpole
that my brother Oliver had been shot in the eye,
partridge- driving, by Henry Lennox. My father
and I drove over at once to Wimpole and found
poor Henry mad with sorrow. Critchett, the
oculist, had arrived. Oliver wonderfully calm
and well.

" I took him to London the next day, and he
remained with me till December 13th. His visitors
were endless and the greatest sympathy was shown
by his innumerable friends.

" I was offered and accepted the post of Military
Attache at Vienna, but found on my arrival at
Hinchingbrooke that evening that it was impera-
tive that I should stand for Huntingdon."

Lord Hinchingbrooke was elected Member for
Huntingdon, without opposition, on February isth,
1876. On the 17th he took his seat in the House of
Commons, being introduced by his brother-in-law,
Sir William Hart Dyke, in after years to be the Father
of the House ; Lord Claud Hamilton, Disraeli, and
the Speaker, Brand, shook hands with him. One of
the debates that he mentions as causing very acri-
monious discussion and violent opposition was that
of the Queen's assuming the title of the Empress of
India. In the autumn he was paying visits in Scot-
land, and was present at a ball at Floors Castle,
when Prince Leopold had a fall while valsing. The
Duchess of Roxburghe was very much perturbed,
haying promised the Queen that he should not dance,
owing to his delicacy. However, he was none the
worse, to her great relief.

During October rumours of war with Russia were

148 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viii

rife, and there was a panic on the Stock Exchange.
On December 5th Lady Florence, Montagu was
married to Captain Alfred C. Buncombe, late ist
Life Guards, at St. Andrew's, Wells Street, the Dean
of Windsor officiating.

On the iith he went to Lathom to shoot, which
appeared to be a doubtful pleasure. " The coverts
are, so black that your clothes are ruined," he wrote
to Lady Sydney. " A man stands over you and
records all you kill, and the crowd, who look on, bet
on the shots you fire. We shot 1,250 head in one
day."

In January 1877 he went to Cannes to look after
his old chief. Sir Fenwick Williams, who was staying
at the Hotel de Provence, returning to London in the
following month.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Viscountess Sydney

Shornclipfe Camp,

March 2yth, 1877.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

My imprisonment over, here I am with
Philip in a very nice hut, breathing fresh air. . . .
There was a tremendous row in the H. of C. last
Friday. What a pity so important a question is
made so subservient to party politics and such a
debate degenerate into Home Rulers' squabble!
The Government side became very noisy and
drowned the voices of several speakers, but, on
the other hand, the Opposition showed great lack
of discipline to their leaders : in short, I don't
think it was a creditable performance. I fear
war is inevitable, and the Russians want a very
large bridge instead of a plank.

On April 24th war was declared between Russia
and Turkey ; on the 26th Lord Hinchingbrooke was
at Portsmouth, attending a lecture on the newly
invented torpedoes, with experiments shown by Cap-
tain Wilson of the Vernon .

1878] BISMARCK AND BEACONSFIELD 149

In spite of his military and political duties and
his manifold social engagements, Lord Hinching-
brooke found time to continue his work among the
poor, and was more and more interested in the hos-
pitals. He became visiting governor of Brompton
Hospital, and also of St. George's Hospital, in the
autumn of this year. In December he got up a con-
cert for the patients at Brompton Hospital, which
was quite a novelty in those days. In the Diary he
mentions meeting Gladstone at a country house and
having a long conversation with him about India,
which impressed him very much, on account of the
intimate knowledge of the country shown by the
statesman.

In January 1878 he met the Prince Imperial, and de-
scribes him as " a charming fellow, full of go and life
and very simple in manner."

Lord Hinchingbrooke was now Acting Adjutant-
General of the Home District.

The Diary

"On July 13th the Treaty with Berlin was
signed and all expectation of war with Russia
was at an end.

" Monty Corry [afterwards Lord Rowton] was
Private Secretary to Lord Beaconsfield, who with
Lord Salisbury represented England at the Con-
gress. He afterwards told me the following in-
cident. After a meeting the difficulties with
Schouvaloff on behalf of Russia seemed insuper-
able, and Lord Beaconsfield ordered a special
train to take him away on the following day.
Early that morning Prince Bismarck called on
Lord Beaconsfield and was received by Monty
Corry. The Prince, who presided at the Congress,
told Monty he should not detain Lord Beaconsfield
but a few moments. He came out very shojrtly.

150 A MISSION TO FEZ [chap, viii

having asked Lord Beaconsfield if England had
spoken her last word, to which Lord Beaconsfield
replied in the affirmative. A meeting of the
members of the Congress was speedily called and
the special train was countermanded.

" On July 29th there was a debate in the
Commons on the Eastern crisis, and the Govern-
ment had a majority of 145.

" On August 3rd I went to Cadlands (Edgar
Drummond's) on Southampton Water, where
amongst others I met my old friend Hobart
Pasha. We visited the wreck of H.M.S. Eurydice,
which was lying off Bembridge, a ghastly sight.
The Pearl and Rinaldo were still trying to lift her.
I went on to stay on board the Enchantress, Owen
Williams's 400-ton schooner, and dined with
the Prince and Princess of Wales in the Osborne :
very wet and stormy weather. I was on board
the Osborne at the Naval Review at Spithead.

" On the 19th I went via Southampton and
Havre to Trouville and joined Blount at Dieppe
in his yacht Sheila. The season was in full swing,
races and balls going on. I saw Chaumont in
Toto chez Tata. I had my first experience of
French bathing.

" On the 26th I went on to Paris and paid
daily visits to the Exhibition. I saw Judic and
Dupuis in Niniche at the Varietes, and went to
concerts at the Orangerie and Mabille.

"On the 30th I returned to England with the
Sydneys and the Villiers. It blew a gale, and we
crossed in the Calais-Douvres, a new type of boat
supposed to be very steady. Her reputation.

1878] OFF TO INDIA 151

however, had not been made, and I suppose she was
a failure, as I don' t think her type was repeated.
The Sydneys were very nervous, and Uncle Sydney's
conversation at the Calais Town station with the
oldest inhabitant was so long that he was nearly
left behind. Of course I had to get on to the boat
as soon as I could, and left the Sydneys hesitating.
When I returned I found them still in doubt.
However, at last my aunt exclaimed : ' Hinch ! I
will put my trust in God and go.'

"On October 15th Philip drove with me to
Folkestone, whence I started for India. I spent
three days at Paris again, visiting the Exhibition,
and embarked at Marseilles on board the Messa-
geries Maritimes steamer the Peiho, a magnificent
vessel of 3,173 tons, commanded by Captain
Pasqualini."

CHAPTER IX

INDIA

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Countess Sydney

"Peiho,"
October 30th, 1878.

Dearest Aunt Emily,

I don't think I half told you how I appre-
ciated finding your letter on board here at Mar-
seilles. It is very pleasant on those occasions
when there are crowds of people taking leave of
each other, confusion, etc., and one is alone, to
find one is remembered at home, and it quite
revived my spirits. Everything has gone on
perfectly hitherto, weather all that one could
wish, hot enough to sit about the deck day and
night in summer clothes. Every kind of human
being on board, lots of Japanese, lots of priests,
German, French, Italian, English hacks, etc. I
have made several friends, whom Emily would
say I talked to as^if I had known them all my life.
Amongst others, a French monk ! I sit next the
captain, and other French officials are about us.
This is rather a bore — no ladies near ! I introduced
myself to Mrs. Cameron to-day and a pretty
woman who was with her. My cabin is charming.
In spite of it all, howl dislike a sea passage! I

152

1878] CEYLON 153

don't think I have anything more to tell you,
and the sea always destroys all my ideas.

Your affectionate

HiNCH.

The Same

Colombo, Ceylon,

November i3ih, 1878.

Dearest Aunt E.,

After a most successful voyage — in the
best cabin of the best ship ever travelled in, with
an excellent agreeable captain, good company,
perfect food, no smells, and only one disagree-
able rolling oppressive day, when 1 felt quite torpid
and slept for twenty-four hours — we arrived here
on the nth at 9 a.m., and I landed in Ceylon
in tremendous heat, a glorious morning, and
found myself in the most beautiful tropical
country. No words can describe the beauty of
the vegetation^ — trees, houses, and people as
unlike anything I have ever seen before as possible
— and I am lost in enchantment which no words
could describe. As the ship anchored, I received
an invitation from the General to stay with him,
and here I am about two miles from the town on
the banks of a lake amongst trees, none of which
are seen in Europe — leaves of every description —
like the best in our hot-houses. Dark-red soil,
most picturesque and very decolletS (!) inhabitants.
There was a dance at the Governor's the night
I arrived, and with the thermometer at 90° I
valsed with Lady Longdon, the Governor's wife,
under a punkah ! which was the coolest moment of
the entertainment. Fancy a country where it
is always summer and the thermometer hardly
varies day or night, average 86°. I am most
comfortable here — a large suite of rooms, bedroom
with eight doors ! wood blinds instead of outer

154 INDIA [CHAP. IX

walls, and ventilation enough to suit you ! I
dined with the 57th Regiment last night, in a
thunderstorm and rain such as I had never seen
— ^buckets instead of drops; which makes the
island look as if it was watered regularly, like a
garden, and no dust. To-morrow I dine with the
Governor and on Friday go up to Kandy — then
to the cotton districts, and to a place in the
mountains, where it is cold at night. I intend
leaving this on the 22 nd for Tuticorin and travel
up the south of India to Madras. I have engaged
a most promising, servant, a very good-looking,
dark- brown fellow, who has travelled in India,
China, and England, and I trust will be invaluable.
I never was better in my life and am thoroughly
enjoying myself. Nothing makes one hotter than
writing, and you will get tired of my ecstasies. I
am sorry you will leave the world without having
seen how beautiful it can be ! Everybody is most
hospitable, and one's only difficulty is how to
refuse invitations. The General here has two very
nice daughters, quite young. I drive with on^
in the evening by moonlight through, cinnamon
gardens with innumerable fireflies hovering
around and by the sea^ with the phosphorescent
waves meeting with gorgeous lights on the shore ! !
A pretty girl of seventeen ! ! ! (I hear you saying,
" How like Hinch! ") My Swiss friend is here,
and we travel more or less together to Calcutta.
The telegrams from England to-day are very good,
Russia desiring a good entente with England and
Austria and the fulfilment of the Treaty : I trust
this is true. Tell Cha the bathing here is worse
than Dieppe. Hundreds of ladies bathing in
the lake by the side of the road daily without
garments.

Ever your affectionate

Hinch.

1878] KANDY 155

The Same

NUWARA ElIYA,

' November igtk, 1878.

Dearest Aunt E.,

Your letter of October 24th reached me
at Kandy ; it was a great treat, and gave me the
greatest pleasure. We left that loveliest of places
Colombo, on the 15th, by rail for Kandy. The
train full of naked black people in tropical scenery
was very curious. We had a saloon carriage,
and I came up the pass on the engine ; such pre-
cipices — the railroad is cut throu'gh the side of
the rock, which in many places hangs over the
train and has a precipice any number of hundreds
of feet down a few inches from the rails. There
is one place called Sensation Rock, but an enor-
mous cracked rock overhanging the line was to
me much more sensational. Kandy is lovely in
the mountains. We saw the famous Buddhist
temples, the magnificent botanical gardens, wild
bamboos like tall trees, and every variety of
tropical vegetation in perfection. Thence I went
twenty -five miles by train and drove twenty- seven
miles across a mountain pass to stay with the
Elphinstone brothers, with pretty wives, sons of
Sir J. Elphinstone and. great coffee-planters. On
starting, one of the horses kicked over the pole
and smashed it. Luckily it was in a village, and
I changed the carriage, a sort of light dog-cart. I
thought often of you in the drive, which is rather
narrow ; a watercourse between you and the
rocks on one side, precipices with no protection
whatever on the other. One horse j ibbed occasion-
ally, but the coolie who runs alongside pricked
him on always in time to save the precipice. We
reached Logie, which is 4,500 ft. above the sea, at
5.30 p^m., and I spent a most pleasant day there,
learning all about coffee. The scenery is lovely.

156 INDIA [CHAP. IX

but the jungle is all cleared for coffee, and you
see nothing but coffee, tea, and cinchona. The
weather was lovely ; we had no rain since Kandy,
which is lucky in these mountains. This morning
I came up here, where I have joined M. Favre
(my Swiss friend) again, and am staying at the
club. We drove part of the way and rode up
through the jungle amid lots of precipices, and
are here 6,500 ft. above the sea, in a sort of
English summer climate, thermometer only 69°,
with fires at night, windows again, and English
furniture. What surprises me most in Ceylon is
the extraordinary fertility and ever57thing looking
as if it was kept in order by thousanjis of gardeners.
One sees no decay, and the jungle is like a garden ;
rhododendrons are large trees, but otherwise
there are no trees or shrubs like an5rthing in
England.

I am enchanted with Ceylon and am in perfect
health and spirits.

Your ever affectionate

HiNCH.

From Viscount Hinchingbrooke to General Philip

Smith

Colombo,
November 23rd, 1878.

My dear Philip, *

I wrote to you from Nuwara Eliya, and so
take up my parable. I drove there to see the
Botanical Garden with a glorious view, and where
they are trying what variety of plants will grow
in this island. I believe everything will grow but
our flowers ; roses all grow in such luxuriance
and flower so incessantly that they soon become
exhausted. The swell of the gardens had a very
complete collection of serpents, snakes, butter-
flies, and some of the birds found in the island.

1878] IN THE JUNGLE 157

I have only met one big serpent in the jungle, and
he not of a dangerous kind, but the leeches at
Kandy were everywhere, and one had to 'lie care-
ful. The next morning, before sunrise, I started
up Pidurutalagala, the highest mountain in the
island, 8,300 ft. above the sea ; the ascent pretty
easy, all through jungle, a narrow path where
wild animals abound. I saw the marks of ele-
phants, pig, deer, but only met some jungle- fowl.
It was quite clear at the top and the view mag-
nificent. The thermometer 50° at the top at 8 a.m.
in the shade — not very cold for that height,
but it seemed very cold, and the natives shivered
awfuUy. Great rhododendron trees were in
flower a few feet from the top, and as soon as you
got into the jungle, some thirty yards from the
top, it was quite hot again. In the afternoon I
went to see an elephant working at road-making.
It was most curious to see him moving the big
stones about with his head and trunk ; they made
him knock a tree down and roll it about and go
through all his tricks. We left on the 21 st to
return to Colombo, first a drive in a one-horse
chaise for fifteen miles, then what they call a
coach, a sort of brake. We were crowded, four
inside and two children, one of which squealed
the whole way for twenty miles. The road de-
scended some 6,000 ft., so you may imagine it was
steep and precipices innumerable and splendid
scenery. In the train the heat was very great.
I am again at the General's, and am going to see
some coffee-mills, the breakwater works, and
native bazaar. To-morrow we embark for India.
I have had a most civil letter from a South Indian
swell, who has made every arrangement for me
between here and Madras. It has rained in the
night, and this morning everything looks green and
refreshed. What a lovely climate this is ! Plea,se

158 INDIA [CHAP. IX

send this on to my family. What with arrange-
ments for the future and thanks for the past, I
have much to write.

/

Your affectionate

HiNCH.

Madura,
November 2Sth.

My dear p.,

I am writing to you at 3 p.m. in my sit-
ting-room, forming part of my suite of rooms,
which from end to end are about 130 ft. long with
twenty windows. One side looks over a broad
river and banyan trees forming the vistas, with
cocoanuts and palms beyond the river and a
range of blue hills beyond. The other side looks
over a huge tank (artificial lake), which has an
island in the middle, with a beautiful pagoda
dedicated to the goddess Minakshi. There is a
good breeze, punkahs everywhere day and night,
so you see I am not roughing it. I must resume
my report from Ceylon. I was perfectly happy
there and very sorry to leave that lovely island ;
embarked on the 25th on a very hot day ; capital
cabin, but we had 500 coolies on board returning
to have a holiday in their own country and to
spend their money. It was most curious to see
them huddled about, but the night was odious,
very wet, very rough, the stench of the ship and
the coolies' food awful! We arrived five miles
from Tuticorin at 9 a.m., and luckily a merchant
had been warned to meet us, and came off in a
capital boat, for the sea was very high and the
crowds of huge native boats bumping up and
down unshipped our rudder and made it by no
means easy getting into the boat. We had either
to climb down the side by a rope ladder, or get
on a plank outside the port and spring into the
boat. I preferred the plank ! The native sailors

1878] HOSPITALITY IN INDIA 159

jumped into the rough sea and put our rudder
on, and we had a very rough sail into port. The
train was gone, but our friends, the cotton mer-
chants, put us up most comfortably. It was
interesting to see the cotton works. I came on
here yesterday by train. Arrangements are made
for me everywhere, and knowing nobody it is very
cheerful to find letters on arrival and telegrams
along the road and people to meet you at the
stations. This morning I was taken to see the
palace here, huge and very interesting, and to
the temple, which they say is one of the finest in
India. It is a most wonderful place, and we were
received by the priests and dignitaries, and gar-
lands of flowers put round our necks and fruit
given us, and were conveyed with crowds follow-
ing over the temple. And all this between 6 and
10 a.m. The long siesta in the middle of the
day is very agreeable.

November 30th.

Came on here yesterday morning (Trichinopoli) ;
went up the rock in the afternoon and to a garden
party of the residents. Am staying with the
judge, Mr. Brand, a charming fellow. This morn-
ing at 6.30 we drove to see the sacred temple,
which is enormous, but not so fine as Madura.

Madras,

December ^th.

All letters missed, and they only expected me
to-morrow ; the club and hotel were full up, and
for five hours I was wandering about trying to
find a house, when I met the Duke of Bucking-
ham's carriage and A.D.C., with invitation to
Government House. My letter had only just
' arrived, and nothing could exceed the kindness
and hospitality of the Duke and everybody. I
have been with the Duke in style to pay a visit

i6o INDIA [CHAP. IX

to the Prince of Arcot, the representative of the
Nawabs of the Carnatic ; he was received in
durbar with great ceremony. I walked up arm-
in-arm with his brother ; we then went to see the
arsenal and barracks in the fort — 43 rd Regiment.
Dinner of forty people, admirably done. The
next day we went at 6.30 a.m. to inspect a native
regiment on parade, and the barracks— hospital ;
after breakfast there was a great performance
of Indian jugglers, conjurers, snake-charmers, and
acrobats, I then went to see the surf, as it was
unusually high, and we saw a boat very much
broken and very nearly swamped coming ashore.
In the afternoon I drove ten miles with the Duke,
his daughters, and staff to Red Hill, where are the
remains of the famine camp, and huge tanks for
the irrigation of the country and water supply of
Madras : one tank nearly eight square miles !
Tea out there, carriage-and-four, escort, etc.
This morning at seven I went to see the museum,
the best in India, and most interesting. It is
wonderfully cool here now, and not so hot as any
other place I have been at ; cloudy and showery
to-day. You see I am travelling about en prince,
and it is most curious, leading so entirely new a
life among totally different people, customs, sights,
climate, and countries from anything one has
ever seen before. I don't mind the heat a bit,
and when most people have punkahs by day and
night I hardly ever use one in my own rooms.
Tlj.e publicity of life is remarkable — there is no
such thing as shutting oneself up in one' s room ;
and the multiplicity of servants everywhere is
astounding. It is droll, too, being always the
guest of people whom one generally has never seen.

December $th.

It would take volumes to tell you all I see and
do. This morning at 5.15 a.m. 1 started in four-

1878] VISIT TO A RAJAH 161

in-hand to see all the memorials of St. Thomas,
who was mart5n:ed here according to the imme-
morial legend ; then to the artillery barracks, to
Guindy Park, another place of the Governor's,
with beautiful garden and park : all this after a
dance here last night.

December 6th.

I am off to-day. A cyclone has passed north-
wards, and I have been watching the surf-boat in
a blazing sun. Yesterday afternoon I visited a
Rajah, which was very amusing. He sent a car-
riage-and-four for me, and another team to bring
me back ; he gave me a lot of presents. Singing-
girls, music, exhibition of tame birds, etc. There
was a dinner of forty here last night, and I went
to a ball, which, as it is virtually in the open air,
although hot, is not stuffy, like a London ball. I
suppose you will get this about Christmas time.
My best wishes and many Happy New Years!

Yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

The Same

British Residency, Hydexabad,
December loth.

My dear Philip,

I left Madras on the 6th, arriving the next
afternoon at Shahabad, my first journey alone, a
big carriage all to myself, but the heat and dust
were awful. I stayed the night at a comfortable
bungalow close to the station, belonging to a man
with an unpronounceable name. I was looked
after by a Brahmin, who spoke English perfectly.
It was quite a relief dining alone and having a
quiet evening, the first since I left you. The next
morning the Brahmin took me to see the gaol and
the pernfianent rest-camp, where troops remain

i62 INDIA [CHAP. IX

the night on their journey. There were some
R.A.s, and some Madras sappers en route to
the Front ; an old Irish pensioner in charge of
the camp had a grievance, and was very com-
municative. An eight hours' rail journey on the
Nizam' s railway brought me on here, where I am
staying with. Sir R. Meade, the Resident, in a
palatial residence — an enormous place, a mixture
of Moor Park and Blenheim. I am so glad I came
here ; it is quite unlike the Madras Presidency —
cjliiefiy Mohammedans, and the people more
clothed and nearly all armed. Yesterday I went
with Sir R. M. to the Nizam, who received us in
private durbar — quite a boy of about thirteen : he
wore a green and white striped silk coat over a
red and yellow striped petticoat, red socks, a white
turban with a gold fringe, and a few jewels. The
government is administered by Sir Sala Jung and
the Nawab, whose title is the Prince of the Nobles.
They were both there, and there was a great dis-
cussion about the two Princes here, who offered
to j oin the Army in Afghanistan. They have been
accepted, and now the ladies of the harem are
strongly objecting. I met the two fellows, who
seem very anxious to go. In the afternoon I rode
my first elephant through Hyderabad and paid
a visit to this afore-mentioned Nawab. There were
two guards of honour besides escort, etc. The
old fellow came to the foot of the steps to meet
me, and took me ^11 over his house, and showed me
all his curiosities, from his guns and swords to
ostriches. He gave me an Hyderabad-made
bamboo stick, which forms a breech-loading gun,
with silver handle and other things. The com-
bination of Oriental splendour, of huge mirrors
and chandeliers and the most tawdry French
prints and English photographs, is very funny.
I dined with Sir Sala Jung, i6o people, Moham-

1878] BOMBAY 163

medans and Christians, in a hall, one side of which
formed a colonnade overlooking an illuminated
garden. There was a nautch performance in the
evening, a very good band, and the ladies of the
harem were peeping through the lattices in the
galleries above. You will gather from my letters
that I am grateful to you for sending me out to
India. I feel already more than amply repaid.
It is extraordinary how little one realises in
England what India is really like. This place is
some 2,000 ft. above the sea, and the air is com-
paratively cool, but they have a good deal of
cholera, and people die of fever very freely.

Bombay,

December 15th.

I have arrived here, having stopped on the
way at Poonah, where I went over the military
gaol, where I trust I may be confined if I am ever
sentenced. The cells are very roomy, with iron
bars, and the prisoners have a magnificent view
for miles over the country and no hard labour.
The railway down the Ghauts is a wonderful work,
one in thirty-four, and they have one or two in-
clines for the trains to run up if they " run away " !
Here I am in a magnificent Indian tent on Malabar
Point, close to the sea, and nothing could be more
delightful. The mixture of races in Bombay is
remarkable. Parsees, A»abs, Africans, and natives
from all parts of India are to be seen, and there
is life, bustle, activity everywhere. I have done
the Elephanta Caves, Hog Island, seen the docks,
and been introduced to the elite of Bombay.
Yesterday I went to the slums of the native town,
to the cotton bazaar, the town hall, and to the
Apollo Bunder, the principal landing-place, where
the band plays and lines of carriages are drawn
up, the English barouche with Eutopean swells,.

i64 INDIA [CHAP. IX

the latticed brougham of the Parsee and Moham-
medan ladies, the native buggy, etc. Except for
the bands, there is a total dearth of good music
in India; amateurs are consequently very much
to the front at evening parties. Etiquette requires
the lady of highest rank to sing first, which is
sometimes rather painful, as the ladies' voices
do not always correspond to their husbands'
talents as officials! I leave here the 20th for
Mhow.

Yours ever affectionately,

HiNCH.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Countess Sydney

Government House, Allahabad.

Dearest Aunt E.,

I wrote last from Bombay, where I had a
very pleasant week. Some friends travelled with
me to Khundwa, where I got into Holkar's rail-
way, on which I had not got a carriage ordered,
luckily, as I fell in with a native swell of Indore.
The Resident, Sir H. Daly, was away, and I had
given up seeing that. However, 1 got into con-
versation with this native Brahmin, who turned
out to be brother of the late Prime Minister, and
he invited me to pay him a visit at Indore (Holkar' s
capital). At Mhow, the great military canton-
ment, I stayed with Colonel Blundell, 3rd Hussars.
My great object there was to see my great friend's
grave. I found the cemetery disused and greatly
neglected, and I hope to have that put to rights.
The next day I drove over alone, thirteen miles,
to Indore, and had a most deUghtful day quite
alone amongst the natives.

My friend " Sukharan Martand" met me in his
phaeton, drove me all over the town, and showed
me everything— the Maharajah's gardens, mena-
gerie, summer palace, native troops, and their

1878] NATIVE HOSPITALITY 165

barracks. He gave me luncheon in his own house,
where he had to have in Mohammedan servants,
as no Bra.hmin will cook or wait upon me. But
they sat by while I lunched ; and his brother then
took me to see the Rajah's eldest son, Holkar
himself being very ill. We were quite alone, and
had a very interesting conversation on politics,
Russian aggression, etc. He spoke English quite
well, and wore a magnificent diamond necklace.

As I was driving home to Mhow, two A.D.C.s
galfoped after me — one bringing his photograph
and the other escorting me back to Mhow. I
arrived here Christmas morning early, and am
staying with the Lieutenant-Governor of the
North-West Province^, Sir G. Cooper — charming
house and garden. We had a big dinner yester-
day, and to-day I have been over the public build-
ings, to the fort, to where the huge river Ganges
and the Jumna meet, to see temples, native town,
etc. Amongst the extraordinary sights in India
are the fakirs or holy men who have made vows.
I saw one to-day who has sat on the same stone
for fifty years, they say. At Bombay I saw one
having his arms over his head, which he has
vowed to do always ; they are quite withered, and
his nails were many inches, all intertwined — too
disgusting ! The war is the only public topic
here ; the troops are suffering dreadfully from the
cold. Ladies here are hard at work for the
troops, but we think the war is virtually over, and
wonder how the Government will deal with the
country. Everybody is anti-Russian, and most
regret we did not go to war last spring. Nothing
could exceed the kindness and hospitality of every
one, and it is pleasant to be made so much of.
I am as jolly as possible.

Your most affectionate

HiNCH.

12

i66 INDIA [CHAP. IX

Government House, Calcutta,
January 1879.

Dearest Relatives,

I wrote from Allahabad, and have only to
tell you I h^ve been at Benares since, which was
most interesting. The judge and a charming
wife were among my kindest hosts. Dinner parties
each night, expeditions all and every day. Benares
is the sacred city, the Mecca of the Hindoos :
temples innumerable, streets very narrow and
houses very high, thousands of pilgrims come to
bathe in and die near the Ganges, palaces of
rajahs of all parts on the banks, the dead being
burnt and their ashes swept into the sacred river.
I climbed to the top of the minaret of the great
mosque, steamed in a launch about the river and
landed at the ghauts where the people bathe and
are burnt side by side, crawled through the
narrow streets, saw tepiples where idolatry and
heathenism are indescribably revolting, in some
there were thousands of wild monkeys, in another
sacred bulls, wells where your sins can be blotted
out by a dip. After a pleasant stay I came on
here, and for the first time I am disappointed.
Calcutta is uninteresting ; this house is like a wil-
derness, and what I expected to be the climax of
perfection is rather the anti-climax — the native
town wretched and the people the worst I have
seen. But my disenchantment of Calcutta only
enhances my appreciation of every other place I
have been at. A Happy New Year to you all.
Your very affectionate

HiNCH.

1879] A LONELY RIDE 167

Viscount Hinchingbfooke to the Counfes's Sydney

Belvedere, Calcutta,

January 15th, 1879.

Dearest Aunt E.,

Many thanks to you for letters foulid here
on my return from Darjeeling, and I am realising
who has forgotten me during my absence and
who has not ! I left Barrackpore for Darjeeling,
twenty hours' rail, crossing the Ganges, some miles
broad, in a steamer, and then rode two days'
journey into the Himalayas, some forty miles.
You cross the Terai, a most feverish district, the
jungle alive with wild animals, and then ascend
the most precipitous mountains. I was rather
late, and was deserted by my guide, who said he
was ill, and rode up the last part in thick forest
ravines in the dark, trusting entirely to my pony
for the way and for avoiding precipices yawning
in every direction. I got to Kursiong at 8 p.m.,
where I found my first hotel since Paris, kept
by an old soldier sergeant and very clean. They
invited me to their drawing-room after dinner to
hear a buxom musical daughter ! My luggage
ponies arrived at lo p.m. The syces who looked
after the ponies had deserted them, but fortunately
they had sent a policeman to look after my thiiigs,
and he and my servant brought the ponies up.

, My lonely ride was rather exciting, as insects and
animals were making astounding noises all around,
and I did not quite like the idea of tumbling over
a precipice to be found by a tiger or a leopard
in the morning. The next day I rode along a
cart road in the most glorious scenery, fern trees
and every specimen of beautiful vegetation in the

, gorges, but gradually got into clouds, and some-
times could only see a few yards. Thus I reached
Darjeeling, between 7,000 and 8,000 ft. high. It
was marvellous how the population had totally

i68 INDIA [CHAP. IX

changed here. They are much lighter and of a
Mongolian type, and are Buddhists by religion.
Their prayers are written upon white flags outside
their huts and temples, and in the temples are
offered by turning wheels with the prayers written
in them. The sunset that evening was glorious —
the highest snows wrapped in pink, with a sea of
clouds round them, and the green precipitous
mountain-sides, with tea plantations below. The
next morning was perfectly clear, and I climbed
up Tiger Hill, some 9,000 ft. high, and had the
most sublime and glorious view it is possible to
conceive — the whole of the snows visible as far
as the eye can reach, ending in the north with the
three peaks of Mount Everest, the highest moun-
tain in the world, some 150 miles off, and right
in front the splendid Kinchinjinga, the second
highest, nearly 28,000 ft., a valley oi some
6,000 ft. immediately below you. It was worth
all the j ourney from England alone. I shall never
forget the stupendous qffect of the grandeur of
the scene. I had a very pleasant journey down.
One of my ponies, the best I ever rode, would have
liked to have galloped the whole way.

''1 came by a different route, and after leaving
the mountains had some fifteen miles through
jungle, alive with tigers, leopards, etc. As I
was alone on my pony, I am glad I met nothing
more ferocious than monkeys and coolies. I was
again much struck by the sharp line defining the
mountain races from the Hindoos of the plain —
totally distinct in colour, dress, religion, and
everything. Three days' journey brought me
here, where I am staying with Sir Ashly Eden,
Governor of Bengal, the most comfortable house
1 have been in and lovely gardens, and I am
enjo5dng a few days' rest, or rather comparative
rest. There was a dance last night at the General' s.

1879] CAWNPORE AND LUCKNOW 169

to-day a big dinner and dance at the Viceroys,
and to-morrow ditto here ; so you see Calcutta
is very gay. I attended a meeting of the Council
yesterday, and to-day have been over the prison
and the museum, where I was surprised to iind
the legends of the Buddhist religion on stone and
most similar to our Christian belief, and 500 years
older ! I fully appreciate your kindness in writing.
You have written every mail as much as all the
members of my family put together ! And when
one is away, living among strangers, this kindness
is felt to the fullest extent, and I am very grateful.
What is Cha about ? If not in love, tell her to
write more of her amusing letters. Best love.
Your most affectionate

HiNCH.

From Viscount Hinchingbrooke to General Philip

Smith '

Agra,
January 28th.

My dear Philip,

On my way here I stayed a day at Patna,
a large native city. I went over the great Govern-
ment opium factory, where every process was
minutely described. From there on to Cawnpore
and Lucknow, through all the scenes of the
Mutiny, details of which are unnecessary to de-
scribe to you, although intensely interesting, with
eye-witnesses to tell you all that happened. You
would have enjoyed it immensely, if you did not
sleep through it ! My hostess was the nicest I
have met with. I quite succumbed ! And as she
drove me to the station at 7 a.m. to see me off,
I trust the feelings were reciprocal! Here I am
with General Trevor in Mars vice Venus at
Lucknow, an old bachelor ! The Taj is beyond

170 INDIA [CHAP. IX

description, beautifully kept, and the gardens
there lovely. I sat on the terrace overhanging
the Jumna, with a wonderful view of Agra and
the fort one side, the river with cattle and natives
bathing and washing clothes, ruins on the oppo-
site bank — such a picture ! And the finest building
in the world,, the tomb of a beloved wife, below
which, in the river, was the corpse of a woman,
caught in the stream — a curious contrast ! The
fort containing the Palace of Akbar is magnificent,
an enormous block with huge red sandstone
walls. Imagine the Tower of London magnified
tenfold. In all respects by far the grandest mass
of building I ever saw, and the remains of the
palace inside, in perfect preservation, with the
ladies' boudoirs, all of marble inlaid and white
marble screens like lace, were very fine.

February 6th.

I returned here yesterday from a tour in the
district. Visited Futteypore-Sikri, Bhurtpore,
Muttra, Brindabun, all incomprehensible names
to you, but the usual sights here. My life at the
moment is one of such constant occupation, and
when I have a quiet moment I have so much to
write and to read, that one has little time to think,
but in writing to you the thought flashes across
me that I shall not be sorry when it is all over
and I find myself again in James Street, but it is
impossible to say how interesting my journey is
and how amply repaid I am for coming. I am
expecting a visit from a native swell, so good-
bye.

Your ever affectionate

HiNCH.

P.S. — My interview has been most interesting,
on Hindoo religion, rites and customs, govern-
mentj famine, etc., and lasted two hours.

1879] MARRYING TWO WIVES 171

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to the Countess Sydney

Delhi,
February igth,

Dearest Aunt E.,

I sometimes wonder if you care for my
accounts, which must be very egotistical; or if
you only care to know if I am alive and well !
Jeypore is a curious place, a native state-capital
city lighted with gas, beautiful broad streets,
quaint pink houses, and picturesque people, the
Paris of India in architecture and morality. One
morning before breakfast I saw the gaol, hospital,
waterworks, and tigers, and a leopard caught in
the garden a few days ago. We had some deer-
hunting with cheetahs, but I did not think it
amusing^-curious to see once. Then I went to
Ajrhere — a very pretty place among hills, with a
large lake, a rarity in India. Thence to Ulwar,
where I paid the Maharajah a visit, who was
starting off that afternoon to marry two wives in
distant states. We saw him leave the city, but
the Brahmins did not find the omens propitious
till after dark, so there was not much to see except
where the torches surrounded the Maharajah,
although the procession must have been a mile
long — camels, elephants, carriages, troops, horses,
and innumerable people, a great deal of banging
and big guns fired from camels' backs. From
Ulwar here nothing has interested me more than
the scene of the fighting. All is left as it was,
except that a great part of the dity has been razed,
and that trees have grown up between the Ridge
and the city walls. Considering the heat, the
rains, the daily fighting for three months, one
cannot realise how they lived through it, and the
enormous interests that were at stake during
the whole time I never before appreciated. The

172 - INDIA [chap- IX

monuments are magnificent, and there is much to
see. Best love to all.

Your ever affectionate

HiNCH.

Viscount Hinchinghrooke to General Philip Smith

The Dehra Doon,
March 5th.

My dear Philip,

I have enjoyed my camp life and shooting
immensely, although I have not killed a tiger.
Mr. Ross (my host) has done his best, but the time
of year is against us. I have been out daily and
all day on elephants ; nine in line crashing through
the jungle is a very fine sight. My first experience
of mounting an elephant by his tail is successfully
accomplished. One day within a hundred yards
of the foot of the Himalayas we came across a
bullock, which we found had been killed by a
tiger that day. They told me it was a thousand to
one I should get a shot if I remained, so we decided
to do so. The shikarees construct a perch on the
nearest tree with a few branches and leaves. At
5 p.m. we climbed from our howdahs into our
roost. The men and elephants were sent to some
neighbouring huts, to come at once if they heard
us fire. We hid ourselves carefully amongst the
branches, and settled down in anxious expectation :
not a whisper or movement ; sundown was con-
sidered the most likely time. A dove came to
roost close to us in our trees, j ackals came lurking
about below, and vultures sat on the trees around.
About 7 p.m., when it was nearly dark, we heard
a shot not very far off : Ross was evidently
annoyed at that sound. The moon would be all
right till II p.m. I watched the jackals warily
attack the- carcase ; they were not long left in
peace, as the vultures came down, and, from

1879] UP A TREE 173

their numbers, mobbed and got the better of the
jackals.

At 10 p.m. I asked if a cigarette was out of the
question, but Ross shook his head. I was getting
very hungry ; we had nothing with us but two
biscuits and a Uttle whisky and water. The moon
set about midnight, and Ross, who had kept a
keen look-out for six hours, said there was now
little hope ; that confounded shot had probably
done the mischief. We ate our biscuits ; it felt
chilly after the heat of the day, and the whisky
was by no means unacceptable. Still anxiously
intent on the entrance of the gully, I heard, to my
dismay, a snore from my neighbour, and realised
all hope was gone. I did not find my bed in the
tree very comfortable ; lying down, either my head
or my legs were hanging over the side. Ross, by no
means a little man, took up a good deal of room ;
there was nothing at my side to keep me from
slipping out, and I felt sure if I dozed I should
topple over, perhaps into the jaws of the longed-
for tiger ! The night was very long. At sunrise
we heard the welcome sound of our elephants
crashing through the jungle. Another day we
came upon either a tiger or a leopard in thick
jungle ; unfortunately it was met by an elephant
on which there was no gun. The beast roared and
the elephant ran forward furiously. It was only
about fifteen yards in front of me, but the jungle
was over our heads and one could not see into it.

I have succeeded in mounting my elephant by
the trunk, as the mahouts get up. They catch
hold of the elephant by his ears, and put one foot
on his trunk ; he then lifts them up and they step
on to his head. I must admit it was not accom-
plished without a few shoves from the natives, "
and great caution on the part of my sagacious
" AmeUa." This country is very sacred to the

174 INDIA [CHAP. IX

Hindoos, and you meet naked fakirs wandering
about, fancying themselves a sort of John the
Baptist, I suppose. The mode of proceeding on
the river is most curious. You know those paper
inflated animals which are sent up in England as
balloons — such is the appearance of the boats:
two cowhides inflated with a mat between them,
on which you lie, and two others unconnected at
each end, on which men lie on their stomachs,
holding on to your mat and propelling the whole
thing with their feet. You go down rapids on
these at any rate, but somehow you never upset.
In the quiet water we got some duck and teal.
One feels rather helpless when the boatmen paddle
away to pick up the birds, and one is left floating
on a cowskin alone in the middle of the river.

I am very sorry my happy time in camp is
over. It has been a delightful change after all my
sightseeing — excellent companions, capital sport,
in beautiful scenery and perfect climate.

Yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

Peshawur,
March 13th.

De;arest Relatives,

Here I am again at cities and sights. I
spent a day at Umritsar and saw the Golden
Temple and Sacred Tank of the Sikhs. Don't be
afraid I shall bore you all about India when I get
back. I promise never to mention the subject. I
feel you are saying already, " What a bore Hinch
will be about India ! " I promise to relapse into
the frivolities of London. At Lahore I was met
at the station by the Lieutenant-Governor of the
Punjab, with a char-£i-banc drawn by four camels,
an unusual mode of locomotion ! Government
House is charming ; it was constructed for a tomb.

1879] THE KHYBER PASS 175

supposed to have been buill; by a man during his
lifetime for himself, and never occupied. The
rooms are consequently of curious shapes. I left
Lahore Monday night — rail 100 miles to Jhelum at
ten miles an hour! — sixty-eight miles' drive to
Rawal Pindi in a dak gharry, a sort of box on
wheels, in which you lie down day and night and
gallop along — the road crowded with convoys,
carts, camds, native cavalry, British infantry,
looking very warlike, camps and convoys parked.
I arrived at 8 p.m. Left the next morning at
7 a.m., and did the 102 miles here in eleven hours ;
besides an hour spent at Attock, where you cross
a bridge of boats, a most picturesque hot place,
the scenery very pretty all the way ; you cross
several ridges and very broken ground, frightfully
difficult for an invading army, snowy mountains
in the distance. Dead bullocks, carcases of camels,
convoys, all betoken a state of war. Peshawur
is totally unlike Indian cities, and to-day of
course still more unlike. Quite a new people.

March i6th.

I have seen the famous Khyber Pass, well worth
the journey and the trouble. I cannot attempt
any description; I should not know where to
begin ! I climbed up the line of heights which the
Afghans defended, down and up again into the
fort of Ali Musjid, now held by Ghourkas, and
through the narrow gorge, which is wild and
magnificent. The camp below was a wonderful
sight — elephant batteries — Madras sappers —
natives of all kinds, and English R.A. men. Of
course I visited the field hospital, which was
admirably kept. On my return here I went for
a lovely drive round the town, through gardenfe
and orchards, a mass of peach blossom ; the moun-
tain views in every direction are magnificent.

176 INDIA [CHAP. IX

Hindoo Koosh towering over the lower naoun-
tainous regions.

Yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

Bombay,
* April 2nd.

Dearest Aunt E.,

Your letter of the 14th found here. I
must once more thank you for the great pleasure
your letters have given me. No one can tell
who has not been separated from every one he
knows, among ever - changing people, for six
months, what an inestimable^ satisfaction it is to
be sure of a letter by every mail. I am really
grateful to you. I am rather anxious to be off
now; it is very hot, and I have had enough of this
sort of life — just enough, not too much. I visited
the Nawab of Bahawulpore, and then came here
by steamer from Kurrachee. You would have
liked the pearls and emeralds the Nawab wore out
shooting, and still more the jewels he wore at a
sort of "Braemar" gathering for native sports.
From here I have been to Baroda, where I spent
a most delightful time in that most fascinating
of native states. Here His Excellency works
me hard. There is no public building — Govern-
ment office — hospital — college — school — library —
museum — garden — prison, that I have not
visited.

One night we had a reception of native swells.
I s'tood with the Governor on a " cloth of gold."
About 359 passed by as at a levee, and he gave the
history of most of them as they passed. It took
two hours, which in great heat after a hard day^ s
work was trying. You must be very careful how
you treat me when I get back. In the last six
months I have only had to express a wish or the

1879] NOTHING "IMPOSSIBLE" 177

slightest suggestion and everything has been done
in the most sumptuous manner. The words
"no" or ■' impossible" I no longer understand!
Yes ! perhaps my head is a little turned, but I
daresay the three weeks' voyage will set it straight.
Best love.

Yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

CHAPTER X

THE WANDERER

After his return from India, Lord Hinchingbrooke
plunged anew into his strenuous life of work and
play. In spite of his lack of interest in politics, he.
attended the House regularly ; ' his military duties
were always to him a labour of love. Society still
had charms for him, and he was as energetic as ever
in the pursuit of pleasure. Without having a very
connected account of his doings, we can follow him
in the notes he collected for his Memoirs and in his
letters to Lady Sydney. This lady, the " Dearest
Aunt /E." of the letters, was devoted to her nephew,
and had stood in the place of his mother ever since
her sister's death. Having no children of her own
and being possessed of a most affectionate disposi-
tion, she lavished her love on her nephews and nieces,
and was much beloved by them. She had a habit
of preserving every letter she received — a habit for
which Lord Sandwich had laughingly rebuked her,
saying that these would provide material for a " Paul
Pry of the future." It is curious that his son should
have kept them after Lady Sydney's death, with a
view to inserting them in his Memoirs.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Countess Sydney

Travellers' Club,

Pall Mall, S.W.,

August i4ih, 1880.

Dearest Aunt E.,

I must at once remove the wrong impres-
sion my badly expressed letter must have con-

178

'i88o] A GREAT DIPLOMATIST ' 179

veyed to you. I did not, for a moment, mean
that Lord Stratford's personal friendship with
Gladstone and Dean Stanley were reasons for his
being buried in Westminster Abbey, nor that,
because his relations were there, he should lie
with them as in a family vault. I meant that the
former was a reason why, for political and re-
ligious considerations, he should not have been
ignored or objected to, and that the latter made
it suitable. Although not so great a man as
George Canning, historically he is a far greater
man than Lord Canning, and there might be some-
thing sentimentally appropriate in the three
Cannings being buried together.

My idea, which I find generally shared, is that
he was the greatest British diplomatist of modem
times, and that, historically, he will remain the
most influential statesman in connection with one
of the most important European questions of the
century. However, there are two opinions on
every subject, vide unanimous articles in the
Times, Daily News, Standard, Telegraph, Morning
Post, etc., versus Vanity Fair.

Brantingham Thorpe,

Brough, Yorkshire,

October igth, 1880,

Dearest Aunt E.,

I finished my duty on Monday and came
up here. D. of Edinburgh, C. Beresford, Admiral
and Mrs. Duncombe, Sir A. Armstrong, Lady
Sykes, and naval men. Yesterday we started at
9 a.m. and were away nineteen hours. The music
was beautiful, but one can have enough of any-
thing ! The Leeds mob was very demonstrative
and the police regulations imperfect. To-day we
go to Hull and lunch on board H.M.S. Lively ;
to-morrow Leeds again. I saw Lady A. yesterday
and a large party from Mrs. Meynell Ingram' s. We

i8o THE WANDERER [chap, x

had Albani, Patey, Trebelli, etc., first-class soloists,
and a wonderful chorus. Yorkshire certainly
piques itself justly on its voices. Sullivan con-
ducted and gave us dinner. We had the Elijah,
Barnett's new cantata, Building of the Ships, and
miscellaneous.

Your affectionate

HiNCH.

On November 20th Lord Hinchingbrooke left
England for Switzerland, stopping at Paris for a few
nights on the way.

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Countess Sydney

La Grange, Geneva,

November 2$th, 1880.

Dearest Aunt E.,

It was awfully cold in Paris, and snow all
along the line, but here it is mild and still. Whilst
in Paris I went to see the Chamber of Deputies,
Gambetta beating his desk with a stick and ring-
ing his bell every instant. I was astonished at
the rapidity of their proceedings ; after a quarter
of an hour, he announced that there was no more
business : "la seance est lev6e." They were dis-
cussing the clauses of the Magistracy Bill. I paid
Lord Lyons a visit.

The interior of Swiss life is interesting. I have
several engagements to dinner, etc.

November y>th, 1880.

My friend and I have just been away on a three
days' cruise by steamer to the far end of the lake
to Chillon. As to our life here, we dijeuner at
eleven or twelve, dine at 6.30. In this house,
actually, they are " en grand deuil," so only one
or two people come to dine, and the evenings are
long, as they do nothing but causer. However,

i88i] THE EARTHQUAKE IN CHIOS i8i

it interests me to hear and learn all about the
country. I have dined out several times; the
people are very pleasant and civil. To-night I
dined with a Russian married to a Swiss, and we
went to their box at the opera. To-morrow I
breakfast with Lady Emily Peel. This is a capital
house, with what they call a campagne — a sort of
small park. There is a very small coterie here of
the best society. I am off on Thursday, direction
Poste Restante, Algiers.

Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

Lord Hinchingbrooke's stay at Algiers was not of
long duration, as he was summoned home to attend
the House of Commons, where he found Bright
speaking on the Irish Coercion Bill. News of CoUey's
defeat in the Transvaal came on January 29th, 1881,
and he was present in the House at the sitting which
lasted from 4 p.m. on January 31st to 9.30 a.m. on
February 2nd.

Winter in England had few attractions, however,
for the wanderer, and he was soon off again, this
time to Italy, where he found the railway track
wrecked by an avalanche near Modane. He came in
for a gay time in Rome, visited Naples and Syracuse,
and came to Malta in time for a fancy-dress ball.
" I had no time to arrange a fancy costume," he
wrote to Lady Sydney, " so I went in the scantiest
attire of a Neapolitan fisherman ; my legs were
terribly tickled by the ladies' dresses, which are still
rather extensive."

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Countess Sydney

Malta,
April 2^th, 1881.

On April 7th I left Malta at 2 a.m. on board
the Thunderer, which was ordered to Chios for the
relief of the sufferers in the recent earthquake. I

13

i82 THE WANDERER [chap, x

had very comfortable quarters in Captain Colomb's
cabin. We reached Castro, the capital of. Chios,
on the gth, and found the H.M.S. Bittern, H.M.S.
Antelope, and two Turkish gunboats. It would
be impossible to describe the horrors of the earth-
quake. The first shock had occurred at 2 p.m.,
luckily on ajioliday when many people were out-
side the towns, and after three-quarters of an
hour the people who had rushed from their houses
returned to look after the sick and those left
behind, when another severe shock overwhelmed
them. There were shocks daily while we were
there, which we felt on board the ship. Some
places were entirely destroyed. I visited a town
inland which was entirely deserted. There was
no difference between house and street, all a heap
of ruins. The people were not allowed to enter
the town, but were in huts or tents outside. An
earthquake is ruinous to life, fortune, trade, fdod
supplies, every interest and occupation. All
classes are equally involved. I remember a lady
who was with many other people in a very large
tent telling me she was expecting her confinement
daily and who begged to be removed into privacy.
It was extraordinary how different the effect was
on different buildings. Sometimes a tall minaret
remained upright where small dwellings were a
heap of ruins. We brought tents and supplies of
all kinds. The ships anchored off several places
in one island, and we walked about, bringing help
and relief to the sufferers.

We left Chios on the i8th, and practised various
experiments in speed and evolutions, also gun
and torpedo practice, on our way back to Malta.
I expect to sail for England in a few days.
Ever your affectionate

HiNCH.

i88i] COWES REGATTA 183

Viscount Hinchinghrooke to Countess Sydney

Government House, Portsmouth,
August nth, 1881.

Dearest Aunt E.,

I had no idea you were still in London, or
I should have gone to see you last Wednesday.
I went up to the H. of C. to oppose despotism on
Tuesday and Wednesday, but thought that you
had flown to Frognal. They insist on my staying
here till Thursday. Only Lady A. here, who is
like a girl of twenty, full of life and fun. We
went over to Osborne yesterday for the Corinthian
Yacht Club Regatta. Victor won the race, and
had Prince Henry of Prussia on board with him.
We all had tea on board the Osborne. I have been
over all the ships here, in which, as you know, I
am always much interested, and it is very plea-
sant.

Yours ever affectionately,

HiNCH.

I think it not unlikely that Lady A. will pro-
pose ! '

6, James Street, Buckingham Gate,
November ■zoth, 1881.

Dearest Aunt E.,

Our new housekeeper was supposed to be
"on the drink" last night — typified by her
smashing all the soup plates : so much for the
smart places she came from. We must fly lower.
Can your treasure recommend a woman ? Philip
likes them old and ugly, I middle-aged and comely.
Are all women either wanting in virtue or sobriety ?
If so, I prefer running the risk of virtue !

^ Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

i84 THE WANDERER [chap, x

On July 6th, 1882, Lord Hinchingbrooke went to
Windsor as a qualified instructor • in musketry to
exaipine the officers of the Scots Fusiliers. On the
31st he was present when the Prince and Princess of
Wales inspected the Blues, in which regiment his
brother Oliver was serving, before their departure to
Egypt. In August he went to Dublin to take over
the commancf of the 3rd Battalion of the Grenadier
Guards. Here he relates an amusing incident.

The Diary
" A cousin of mine of the Hunts Militia was
A.D.C. to Spencer. While we were smoking out-
side after dinner the sentry did not challenge us.
This was resented by my cousin, who asked me to
interfere. I told him the sentry was under the
authority of the officer of the guard, that I did
not know his orders, and that I could not inter-
fere — upon which he proposed to do so. I told
him that if he did so the sentry would probably
put him in his sentry-box until relieved. I had
forgotten the parole, and when I left at night I
asked him to give it to me. He declined. When
I got to the sentry in my Irish car, he would not
let me pass without the parole. So I had to
return to the Lodge and again ask my cousin.
Still he would not give it to me, but accompanied
me in the car to the sentry. When we got there,
the time for the countersign had arrived, so the
sentry would not let me pass. However, I had
had enough of this and told the sentry to call the
police, which he did, and I got home. The next
morning I sent for the man to the orderly room
and asked him, as he knew me, why he would
not let me pass. He answered, ' You' are the last;

1883] CHALLENGED BY THE SENTRY 185

man I would let pass without giving the parole.'
I appointed him lance-corporal. The same kind
of thing happened once at the Tower. I forgot
the parole when challenged by the sentry at the
steps of the officers' quarters, and nothing would
induce him to let me pass. I managed to dis-
tract his attention by suggesting there might be
a fire where a fire was very bright in one of the
windows, and while he was looking I dashed up
the steps. He reported me to William Earle,
who was the CO., and I was duly reprimanded.

" On October 20th the Blues, with Oliver,
made a triumphal entry into London after their
campaign in Egypt.

" I returned to London on November 2nd and
visited Victor on board his new command, H. M.S.
Garnet, fitting out at Sheerness.

" The autumn was partly spent in paying
visits. I was at Hinchingbrooke for Christmas
with the family party and went on to Frognal for
the New Year.

" On February 17th, 1883, I went with A.
Bingham to Paris, Bordeaux, and to Pau to see
Alice Corry, who was still very unwell and had
taken a villa there. Agnes Keyser came in while
Alice and I were playing chess, and I then made
acquaintance with the Keyser family, who were
spending the winter at Pau.

" I went on an expedition to Lourdes and
Argeles in the Pyrenees. On April 3rd we went
with Mr. and Mrs. C. Keyser, Fanny, and Agnes
into the Pyrenees, staying at Eaux Chaudes.

i86 THE WANDERER [chap, x

" We drove up to Gabas and walked over the
debris of an avalanche to a plateau under the Pic
du Midi, whence I made my first and last climb
up a snowy peak. Keyset was an accomplished
mountaineer, and I followed him, and can never
forget the strjiggle. Every step I sank above my
knees in the snow, half my body was scorched by
the pun, the other half frozen with cold. The next
day we walked to a grotto and some distance along
a stream underground into the mountain to a
waterfall. We all disliked the process very much,
but nobody dared to disclose his or her funk until
we got out again.

" On June 4th I went to stay with Prince and
Princess Christian at Cumberland Lodge for
Ascot. The guests were the Duke and Duchess
of Teck, Binghams, Newports, Calthorpe, Miss
Lock, and C. Eliot.

" The following week there was a State ball at
Buckingham Palace. An equerry came and told
me that the lovely Princess Elizabeth of Hesse,
granddaughter of the Queen, and now the widow
of the Grand Duke Serge of Russia, would dance
the next valse with me. Before the turn for the
dance came', the Duke of Albany told me over the
head of several people that Princess Beatrice
would dance the same valse with me. I was
unable then and there to explain my engagement
with Princess Elizabeth, so when the valse started
I walked across the open space to the dais, upon
which the two Princesses stood up. I was too
shy to explain the situation, and started dancing
with Princess Elizabeth. Of course, I took the

i883] THE CHAZALIE 187

first opportunity of explaining matters to Prin-
cess Beatrice, who most kindly said she would
dance the following valse with me.

" On the 9th I went with Falbe, the Panish
Minister, to join Mrs. Leigh in her yacht the
Chazalie at Harwich. Evelyn and Cecil Paget
were also on board. We steamed up the coast
for five hours, the course being nearly as crowded
as Piccadilly, and at midnight set sail for Holland.
I had just turned in, when I heard our whistle
blowing incessantly. Of course, I thought steamers
were running into us, and flew on deck to find that
one of the ropes had caught in the whistle and
set it going.

" We were off Rotterdam at the niouth of the
River Maas about 9 a.m., when the pilot came on
board and said there would not be enough water
for us to go into harbour until 5 p.m. I suggested
that as there was rather a rough sea on we might
find smoother water near the shore. Mrs. Leigh
overheard this conversation from her cabin, and
sent the steward up to say she wished the ship
to be kept perfectly steady, as she was feeling
very unwell. This was hardly practicable, but
we moored alongside the quay at 7.30 p.m.

" I very much admired this quaint, picturesque
town. We visited the Schiedam gin distillery.
We went by train to the Hague and went through
the picture galleries, drove to Scheveningen and
to the Queen of Holland's home and park. We
steamed on to Amsterdam through the North
Sea Canal, where we visited the picture galleries,
the Jews' quarters, and the Palace. In the after-

i88 THE WANDERER [chap, x

noon we drove to the exhibition, and in the even-
ing went to the park theatre. The next day we
went by river to Haarlem, heard the famous
organ in the Cathedral. On the i8th we went
in the steam launch into the Zuyder Zee and to
the Marken ^sland, with its houses built on piles
and its strange costumes, and to Peter the Great's
House at Saardam. On the 2oth we arrived at
Antwerp, and visited the Cathedral and saw
Rubens' picture of the Crucifixion, the Museum,
and the Printer's House. Falbe left us at Flush-
ing, and we went on to Ostend and visited Ghent.
We left Ostend on a glorious morning at 3 a.m.,
and I was surprised to find Mrs. Leigh's maid on
deck at that early hour. I mentioned this to
Mrs. Leigh ; she replied that her maid had told
her ' she got up, as she preferred being drowned
in her clothes.'

" While at Dover we went to see the works at
Shakespeare's CUff for the commencement of the
Channel Tunnel.

" On July 30th I attended the dear old General
Sir Fenwick Williams' funeral at Brompton Ceme-
tery. Philip and I had looked after him as best
we could, and often dined with him' at the Senior.
He had become very feeble in mind and body.
I found him sitting »up in his arm-chair one day,
and told him he ought to be in bed. He went to
bed and died. ^

"He was a most excellent and kind-hearted
man, had led a very distinguished life and held
important commands, and was at one moment
the idol of the British public as the hero of Kars.

i883] THE CHAZALIE TWINS 189

" I went down again to stay on board the
Chazalie at Portsmouth for Goodwood Races,

"'We went on to Cowes, The Prince and Prin-
cess of Wales and their daughters, and the Prin-
cess Charlotte of Saxe-Meiningen, niece of the
Prince, came on board several times.

"I sailed with Ned Baring in the Waterwitch
for the Queen's Cup. We steamed in the Osborne
round the island, about four miles off Egypt
House. It blowing very hard; we saw a little
cutter swamped and five men swimming for their
lives. The lifeboat was lowered and picked up
one ; the others were rescued by a launch
amid, considerable anxiety on board the Royal
Yacht.

" One afternoon the Princess came with us in
the launch to see the town regatta, and came
to tea with the Grand Duke of Hesse and Prince
Louis of Battenberg.

" On the 13 th there was a race between the
Chazalie, Czarina (Brasseys), and the Palatine
(Wolverton's). A nice breeze in the morning fell
to a calm before the end of the race, and the
Czarina drifted in, fifty seconds, not a length ahead
of us, but the Chazalie won the prize by time
allowance of two minutes, ten seconds. The
Palatine was many miles astern.

"It is extraordinary how little the owners of
yachts know about sailing. On this occasion,
while beating up to the Nab, Mrs. Leigh was
in despair because the Czarina was apparently
ahead of us, forgetting that she was far to leeward,
and while we were running before the wind back

igo THE WANDERER [chap, x

to Cowes she was very excited because we would
not all lie down under the gunwale.

" The Chazalie was an auxiliary steamer of
about 700 tons,

" Thence to Dartmouth, where A. Bingham
joined us. ^We visited th.Q Britannia training-ship
and steamed in the launch to Totnes. On the
course to Falmouth we landed at the Eddy stone
Lighthouse and went up to the top. The ascent
was bad enough, climbing tl^e iron rungs until
you reached the turret with the circular staircase
inside ; but coming down, when you reached the
platform and had to lie on your stomach trying
to find the rungs in the wall, was awful. Oliver
came out of the door during my attempt, and I
implored him to go back. Lady Virginia, with
a man on either side, accomplished the feat. The
recollection of the Eddystone has always remained
a kind of nightmare to me.

" We went on to the Scilly Islands and anchored
off St. Mary's. Dorrien Smith's steam launch
took us to Tresco, a very pretty place with its
sub-tropical gardens ; but I was rather disap-
pointed in the tame scenery of the islands.

" On November 5th I went to Sandringham.
The guests were Prince Eddy, the Duke. and
Duchess of Edinbtirgh, the Landgrave of Hesse,
Vicomte and Vicomtesse de Grefuhle, Comte
de St. Priest, Baron von Holzhausen, Captain
von Strahl, C. Vivian, C. Sykes, Oscar Dickson,
Lady Emily Kingscote, Francis and Miss KnoUys,
and A. Ellis in waiting. ^

" Tuesday and Thursday there was partridge-

18833 SANDRINGHAM I91

driving ; Wednesday, Commodore and Dersingham
Woods; Friday, Woodcock Wood.

" Friday, the gth, was the Prince's birthday,
and he received innumerable presents from all
sorts and kinds of people, and there was a ball,
which lasted till 4 a.m.

"In connection with this party I must giVe an
extraordinary instance of the Prince's memory.
Many years afterwards he was referring to the
death of Creppy Vivian, when he remarked on the
number of members of this party who had died,
and he really ran through the names of the people
I had met at Sandringham on this occasion. Con-
sidering the number of guests he entertained every
year at Sandringham, I remember telling him with
wonder of his marvellous memory.

"On the 21 st, while shooting at Frogpal, the
news came of Hicks Pasha' s disaster in the Soudan.' '

Viscount Hinchingbrooke to Couniess Sydney

Sandringham, Norfolic,

November 6th, 1883. ^

Dearest Aukt E.,

You have of course heard that Mrs. Leigh's
marriage with Falbe is settled. We had a very
jolly fortnight at Luton; he was there on and
off, and of course one saw tl^at it was imminent.
I came here yesterday. A good deal has been
added this year, including the new ballroom,
which is to be opened on Friday. The party
consists of Germans and French : German, the
Landgrave of Hesse and two men ; French,
Comte and Comtesse de Grefuhle, Comte de St.
Priest ; and a Swi&s, Oscar Dickson. All is very
" couleur de rose," and nothing could exceed

192 THE WANDERER [chap, x

their affability. We drove partridges to-day in
torrents of rain and much wind.
How nice and easy it all is !

Ever yours affectionately,

HiNCH.

" On the 17th I went to Panshanger, wliere the
Duke and Duchess of Albany were staying, and
where I first saw a house with electric light.

" I went on for Christmas to Hinchingbrooke,
where the family were assembled, and returned
to London on the 31st and attended a midnight
service at Wellington Barracks."

Oh March 2nd, 1 8S4, Lord Sandwich died, and his
son succeeded him in the family honours.

CHAPTER XI

LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE

After Lord Sandwich's succession, he dropped out
of London society to a great extent. He visited town
from time to time, he travelled still to a great ex-
tent, and he paid a certain number of visits, but his
real interest lay more and more at Hinchingbrooke,
where county work began to occupy a good deal of
his time, and where he delighted in offering hospi-
tality to his friends and relations.

" I had very great doubts as to whether I should
remain on in the Army," he wrote in his Diary,
" or whether I should devote myself to my new
duties, and decided,' I hope and think wisely,
that, as it would be impossible to combine the two,
my place could be easily filled in the Army, whereas
the management of my estates and my position
iif the county demanded my first attention, and
very reluctantly, on June 3rd, I decided to retire
from the Army. On April 30th I was gazetted
Honorary Colonel of the Hunts Militia, now
called the 5th K.R.R. ; on June 15th I was
gazetted out of the Army."

There is no doubt that Lord Sandwich was sin-
cerely grieved to leave the Service. It is equally
clear that he was delighted to be released from the
jroutine of Parliamentary duties. Party politics had

193

194 LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

no charms for a man of his independent views, and
he was looked on with some distrust by both parties.
Although he represented Huntingdon in the Con-
servative interest, he supported the Liberal candi-
date, Mr. Adeane, in 1900. He afterwards severed
his connection with that party, as he disapproved of
their views on finance.

The following letter is amusing as coming from
one who had just left Parliament, where he had sat
as a Conservative, to an aunt whose husband was a
staunch Liberal.

The Earl of Sandwich to Countess Sydney

HINCHINGBROOKE, HUNTINGDON,
August 2Qth, 1884.

Dearest Aunt E.,

As you are, as you say, " an old-fashioned
Tory," aiid I am a modern Radical with socialistic
tendencies, it is almost astonishing that in theory
I agree with you — but the subject is too wide for
a letter,

, I am much amused at your being unable to finish
your simile of chess to the quarrels of life ! Chess
is a game where right and reason prevail, and the
best man wins — very unlike real life, to my mind.
No, I recommend football as a better simile,
with its kicks and struggles — or, more technically,
with its rushes, shies, and shinAings. The hardest
knocks and most uncompromising kicks get the
mastery, whether fair or unfair.

Did I tell you that Huntingdon wanted to
entertain me at a public dinner ? But the Con-
servatives would have nothing to say to it, as the
Liberals originated the idea ; so it is postponed.
Yours ever affectionately,

HiNCH.

If politics did not interest Lord Sandwich over-
much, it canriot be said that he shirked his county.

1884] AN IDEAL CHAIRMAN 195

duties. As he gradually made himself looked up
to and respected in Huntingdonshire, he filled many
important posts and did much excellent work. He
was never a figurehead, and his keen common sense
and clear judgment made his work really valuable.
He was chairman of the County Council from its
inception, chairman of the Board of Guardians,
chairman of the County Tribunal, chairman of the
County Hospital : he was, as one of his nieces re-
marked,' ' chairman of everything ' ' in Huntingdon. He
was appointed Lord-Lieutenant of the county by Lord
Salisbury, and served as Mayor of Huntingdon for three
successive years. Although he led such a busy life,
he never missed a meeting, always .arriving with
military punctuality at the given hour. As a chair-
man he is said to have been ideal — quick to grasp a
situation, and equally quick to see t|ie advisability
of moving with the times and of adopting the demo-
cratic ideals of progress of the day.

He was an excellent platform speaker, always
holding his audience and having a happy knack of
turning to the light side of his subject. One example,
out of many, may be given to illustrate this habit.
In his opening address to the members of the Ladies*
Needlework Guild, of which, of course, he was presi-
dent, he caused much merriment by saying, " Per-
haps you think I am nervous, alone amongst so
many ladies ; but no ! with one I should be terrified,
but with many I am safe I "

Lord Sandwich was now forty-five years old ; he
was unmarried, his early engagement having been
broken off. His character, always original, some said
eccentric, had crystallised as the years went on. In
some respects he was a man who 'seldom did himself
justice and who was often much misunderstood.
Naturally warm-hearted and sensitive, he had got
into the habit of hiding his feelings under a joking
or sarcastic exterior. One who knew him well said
of him that " he had a habit of commanding which
inclined him to speak in an autocratic manner ; this
instilled a fear of him in his subordinates, and, except
for a few close friends, his character was too domineer-

196 LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

ing and self-assertive to be popular amongst men of
his own age and standing ; a mixture of pettiness
and greatness, he found it difficult to forgive and
certainly never forgot."

Although far from faultless, it was a character of
great strength and much charm. He had a heart
of gold, a very human sympathy for his fellow crea-
tures, an unfailing energy, and a joy of life that
often bubbled over into the most boyish of practical
jokes.

As a host he was perfect. No matter who the guests
might be, he set out to entertain them. He always
took trouble to make himself agreeable, and was only
dreaded when his sarcastic tongue got the better of
him, or, on some trying occasions, when, after care-
fully reading up a period of history, he would spring
difficult questions on to his unsuspecting and un-
prepared guests.

He was a great raconteur, and treasured any story
against his friends, often bringing it out beforfe
strangers, to the discomfiture of the victim : a saving
grace enabled him to enjoy one told against himself
with equal zest. One of his favourite stories related
to a certain door at Hooke Court, his Dorsetshire
house. This door was so invariably left open by the
servants that some one had placed a printed notice
on it, bearing the legend, " Everybody shuts the
door but you." One day Lord Sandwich caught a
footman in the act of leaving it open, so he called
him back and asked him to read the notice. " Every-
body shuts the door but you, my lord," was the
reply.

Lord Sandwich's attitude to his servants was
rather unusual. The butler had been with his father
for many years before he succeeded, and was already
a friend of the family. He always spoke to him as
Mr. Cooper, and addressed so much of his conversa-
tion to him at dinner that a friend once complained
that he addressed his conversation to his servants
at dinner and to his horses out driving ; consequently
it was no use going to stay with him. He used to
introduce his men-servants to guests as " the gentle-

i884] LOVE OF PRACTICAL JOKES 197

men of my household." He always knew the per-
sonal history of his servants, and took a real interest
in their welfare. He was usually very lenient to
them, but had his own way of correcting them when
necessary. On one occasion a small great-nephew
and his nurse were staying at Hinchingbrooke, and
he discovered that the nurse had had no supper
because it was nobody's " place " to take it up to
the nursery. That evening he left the dining-room
in the middle of his dinner, went down to the kitchen,
procured the supper, and took it up to the nursery
himself ; needless to say, the lesson had its effect.
Once only he was really angry with two of the men-
servants whom he discovered standing before a
window at his writing-table reading his letters. He
dismissed neither, but was really annoyed with their
stupidity in being found out.

" Mr. Cooper " was a great character and had a
ready wit. One day a young member of the family,
for fun, gave him a halfpenny for a tip ; Mr. Cooper
whipped a sovereign from his pocket and said,
" No mistake, I hope, miss ? " Lord Sandwich's
love of practical jokes was so well known in the
household that he never could get a servant to
answer his bell on April ist before twelve o'clock,
for fear of being made an April fool.

Lord Sandwich rarely invited the members of his
family to stay with him, preferring that they should
propose themselves. The oftener they came and the
, longer they stayed, the better he was pleased. He
had six nieces who were constantly at Hinching-
brooke and who indulged in a sort of friendly rivalry
amongst themselves. When asked which was his
favourite, he always tactfully replied that it was the
one who had last been with him. As he retained in
himself up to the end of his life a strain of youthful
spirits, he was always ready to amuse young people,
and many happy gatherings were held at Hinching-
brooke during his residence there. He was devoted
to music and the theatre ; he was an excellent mimic
and* was fond of private theatricals, making an
admirable coach. He used to relate with pride that

14

198 LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

Sir Henry Irving had said to him at their first meet-
ing, " I saw at once that you were an actor bom
by the way you walked into the room."

This love of the theatre, combined with a passion
for practical jokes, inspired him at times to arrange
surprises for his guests, which contributed not a
little to the gaiety of the moment. Once he invited
a neighbour tb bring in her house party to dance
after dinner ; what was their surprise to be received
by " Mr. Cooper " wearing a huge cat's head* on his
shoulders and the gentlemen of the household with
their powdered heads hidden under pantomime
masks. On another' occasion he hung the walls of
his dining-room with soap, candles, dustpans, and
brooms, to greet a niece in whose dining-room he had
observed an ancient warming-pan.

When bicycling first became the fashion. Lord
Sandwich was very much put out by tlie -bells that
the riders rang. He bought one of these torments
and used to amuse himself, when out driving, by ring-
ing the bell in order to make the cyclists clear out of
his way. After a time he caught the infection and
learnt to ride himself. He was never a very bold
peicformer, and it used to amuse the younger members
of the family to see him at the head of a party of
twelve or fifteen cyclists, riding through the town of
Huntingdon and calling out, " Don't come near me ;
go away, don't touch me ! " if any one approached
too near.

In the course of time the bicycling craze died out,
to be succeeded by that of motoring ; this proved
to be a lasting pleasure and one that he enjoyed to
the end of his life.

' Lord Sandwich had a great taste for architecture ;
during his residence at Hinchingbrooke he made an
addition to the house and was responsible for many
improvements. He was much amused at the com-
ments of the family on these alterations.

" My dear Hinch," Lady Sydney said, whilst on
a visit to Hinchingbrooke, " I think your taste in
the garden is excellent. You have lived in barracks
all your life, and how can you have learnt anything

i886] A FAMILY PARTY 199

about gardening ? You must be a born landscape
gardener, but you -yvill forgive me for saying I think
your taste in the house atrocious." The same after-
noon his brother, Admiral Montagu, said, " My
dear chap, I think you have wonderful taste in the
house, but you are hopeless out of doors."

Admiral Montagu had a certain caustic wit of his
own, which used to sparkle forth on unexpected
occasions. In 1886 the family met together at Lady
Emily Dyke's house, Lullingstone Castle, to celebrate
the reconciliation of the two brothers, who had not
spoken for some time, following on an estrangement
caused by their father's will. Lord Sandwich was
just going and the rest of the family were in the hall
waiting to see him off, when the Admiral said,
" Good-bye, Hinch ; I'm so glad to have met you ; I
knew your poor father so well " !

The Diary for the years following his succession has
little of interest ; it merely chronicled the events of
every day. He visits the Falbes at Luton " Hoo,
unveils a memorial to his father at the County
Hospital, holds a bazaar at Hinchingbrooke to pro-
vide an organ for Brampton Church, to which Oliver
Montagu brings down the band of the Blues. The
next day he is opening a bazaar in the Town Hall to
provide an organ for the Congregational Church in
Huntingdon. The following week he is staying at
Hatfield, which was then rented by the Duke of
Edinburgh, and notes that he played a game of
billiards with Prince George of Wales.

On December loth he dined with the Mayoi- of Hunt-
ingdon ; the dinner lasted for four hours, and thirty-
eight dishes were provided. On the 17th he was
appointed High Steward and an Honorary Freeman
of Huntingdon at a function in the Town Hall.

The Diary

" On January 4th, 1887, 1 went to stay with the
Duke and Duchess of Cleveland at Battle Abbey.
At the end of dinner the Duchess kindly said

200 XIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

that she supposed I should like to smoke, and
suggested that I should go to the servants' hall.
I thought that might be inconvenient to the
servants at their supf)er-time and said I could
go outside. However, it was snowing hard, and
the butler prpposed that I should go to his room,
which I readily accepted. I joined the dinner
table before the men had gone into the drawing-
room, but there was no question of any one else
being invited to smoke.

" The next morning the snow was deep on the
ground. We heard that the shooting was to
commence three miles away and that no convey-
ances were ordered. I ordered traps from the
town, and they were announced while I was talking
to the Duchess, but no notice was taken by her
Grace. When we reached the covert, there was
a magnificent array of keepers and beaters, but
to the best of my recollection two hours passed
before I fired a shot. There was hardly anything
to shoot,

" On February 19th I went to stay with the
Hoffmans at Chateau la Bocca, at Cannes. Minnie
Paget, Mr. and Mrs. Clark, and Sydney Herbert
were the other guests. Cannes was very gay : a
bal masquS at la Bocca, theatricals at thePrincesse
de Sagan's,and a ball at the Halfords' ; butthe prin-
cipal event was the earthquake at 5.50 a.m., fol-
lowed by another shock at 8 a.m. on February 23rd.
I awoke under the first impression that a train
had run off the rails into the garden, through
which the line passed between the castle and the
sea, but soon felt the reality. Little damage was

1887] EARTHQUAKE AT CANNES 201

done at Cannes, but with two or three people in
the house the effect and result was as if they were
on a rough sea ! Minnie Paget thought very
lightly of it until we went over to Mentone and
she saw the ruins there. Further east there was
considerable devastation."

The Earl of Sandwich to Countess Sydney

February 26th, 1887.

Dearest Aunt E., %

Thanks for yours and sorry you have been
so kindly anxious. There has been a great panic
and people are rushing away in thousands. If
I had not seen more terrible earthquakes at Chios,
when thousands were killed, I should take it more
calmly. As it was my own experience was this :
I suddenly awoke at 5.50 a.m., thinking some
dreadful accident had occurred on the railway
which runs between us and the sea. After a
second, however, judging from the rattling of
everything and the violent shaking of my bed,
I realised an earthquake ! It lasted nearly a
minute. When it was over I got up and looked
out of the window — it was a lovely dawn and
everything looked beautiful and peaceful. I went
to see Herbert, who is very ill, and went down to
look after Minnie, meeting people on the stairs.
I finally lit a cigarette and returned to bed and
went to sleep. I was woken by another shock
about eight o'clock, and we have had a few small
ones since. " Voila tout ! " In the small narrow
hotels people were terrified and rushed out — some
sans hair, sans teeth ! — into the gardens, and one
wonders now what any one talked of before the
earthquake. It seems to have been worse further
east, but it was q.lso felt far inland and as far
as Corsica. On Thursday 11,000 people passed

202 LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

through j Cannes station. In this house we are
very calm, and everything goes on as usual.
Yours ever affectionately,

HiNCH.

The Diary

" On July nth, 1888, I was gazetted to the
command of the South Midland Brigade, which
consisted of the volunteers in Northants, Rutland,
Lincolnshire, Worcestershire, and Warwickshire.

" General Sir Evelyn Wood, when he came to
inspect my militia battalion, suggested the idea
and recommended me for the post.

" The first week in August 1890 I was in camp
at Stoneleigh Park with the South Midland Volun-
teer Brigade. Lieutenant-Colonel D. Papillon
was my Brigade-Major and Gerald Fitzgerald
my A.D.C. The work was very hard while it
lasted : an inspection and a field day every day ;
generally a luncheon to the mayor and mayoress
of one of the principal cities in the command, and
in the evening a concert or entertainment of some
kind in the regimental recreation tents ; after a
dinner with each of the regiments.

" At the end we were inspected by the Lord-
Lieutenant of Warwickshire, Lord Leigh, and by
General Julian Hall in command of the district.

" The first day I was astonished, in walking
through the lines with the C.O.s, to see how
little attention was paid by the men to their officers.
I issued an order about salutes. The next day,
during a field day, I came across a sentry on out-
post duty, who not only presented arms to me.

1888] IN CAMP 203

but at the same time saluted with his hand : the
effect was too ridiculous, although the poor
fellow's zeal was unbounded.

" The men were on the whole very anxious to
learn and very surprised at the interest one was
naturally obliged to take in their comfort and
well-being. The large majority of the officers
were obviously most ignorant of military duty
and discipline. The con^manding officers differed
widely. One was about eighty years of age, and
the joke amongst my staff was that one A.DiC.
was generally employed in inquiries after his
health and fatigue. I relied entirely on the
adjutants, who were very efficient officers of the
regulars. The strength of the Brigade varied by
hundreds every day, as men were always coming
and going. The crowd who visited the camp and
watched the daily manoeuvres was enormous,
and there was great scope for criticism amongst
the many military onlookers.

" One day I sent an A.D.C. with an order to a
distant battalion which was making a grievous
blunder. I watched the delivery of the order
with no result. The A.D.C. returned and told
me he was very sorry but he had forgotten my
order when he reached the battalion. Papillon
came to the rescue.

" One day at luncheon the Mayoress of Leicester
told me across the table that she was surprised
at the language I allowed my C.O.s to use. I
was obliged to regret that a week was not sufficient
to reform the custom of many years.

" Lord Euston on a very fine charger, marching

204 LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

past at the head of his Northamptonshire BattaUon
of 1,200 men in quarter column, made as good a
miUtary exhibition as one could desire to see,
and, considering the material of the Brigade gener-
ally, time would undoubtedly have produced a
very useful force — but the C.O.s generally pre-
ferred bossing the show with their battalions
respectively in their own counties.

" These brigade camps entailed a good deal of
expense — the men preferred being nearer their
homes — and after various attempts during six
years to make the system of these volunteer
brigades more efficient and satisfactory according
to my lights, I resigned the command in 1896.

" After a short cruise in Brassey's yacht the
Sunbeam I went with my cousin Henry Cadogan
to see the Passion Play at Ober-Ammergau.

" We reached Munich on September 20th,
where I met the artist Lehbach and heard the
opera Gotterddmmerung — beautiful at intervals, as
a whole most wearisome.

" We went to Salzburg — to Burg — drove to the
chiteau of Count Arco, and Heilbronn with its
wonderful fountains and waterworks, to the
Carmelite Convent, and to Berchtesgarten, a
beautiful village in the mountains, where we went
to the salt mines and subterranean lake. Went
on the Konig See with its grand precipices, and to
Tegern See, where I met Princess Otto of Witt-
genstein, nee Countess Eleanor of Wittgenstein,
whom I had known many years ago in Rome
and in London, and who was certainly one of the
most agreeable, accomplished, and talented women

i888] THE PASSION PLAY 205

I have ever met. She was very intimate with
the ex-Queen of Naples, who was residing
close by.

" We took a long drive into the forest of Duke
Charles of Bavaria, where the scenery was very
grand, and we saw herds of deer. The Duke took
me over his hospital for diseases of the eye, where
he was renowned as an oculist. His patients
appeared to be devoted to him. He had just
come in from stalking. The only unusual pro-
ceeding which struck me was that he smoked a
cigar while going the round of the wards. He
was most friendly. He is the father of the
present Queen of the Belgians. Thence to Parten-
kirchen, where we stayed with Mr. and Mrs. S.
Dorrien and Clement Coke in a villa which Lord
Wilton had lent to them. Coke drove us in
Wilton's phaeton to Ober-Ammergau, where we
stayed the night at Mr. Lang's, the postmaster.

" On arrival we visited some of the principal
characters in the play, and Coke drove me to see
Lindenhof, the king's palace and garden and
grotto.

" The performance took place on Septem-
ber 28th, a glorious day, and lasted from 8 a.m.
to 12, and from 1.30 p.m. to 5.20 p.m. I was
immensely impressed by the sanctity of the per-
formance — the simple dignity of the actors and
the admirable arrangement of the mise en schne.
The only thing that jarred upon me was the
cry for the sale of "passion- sausages" in the
interval.

" We drove back to Partenkirchen in the even-

2o6 LIFE AT HmCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

ing, and spent the following days in lovely excur-
sions in the mountains and to the lakes Bader
See and Eib See, and to the wonderful gorge of
Partnackhamm .

" On October 3rd we drove through lovely
gorges and by the Plan See to Fiissen and saw
the fine castle of the Prince-bishops, and on the
4th to the castle of Hohen-Schwangau, the old
castle of the Bavarian kings, and to the new
Schwanstein castle built on a rock by King Ludwig
— a marvellous site and building, with a throne-
room where he evidently considered himself
divine.

"I went on January 22nd, 1891, to stay with
Sir John Halford, colonel of the Leicestershire
Volunteers, a great rifle shot, for a voluntee^r
function at Leicester, and on February 4th to
the Spencers at Althorp, where Spencer proposed
my health at dinner on my appointment as
Lord-Lieutenant of Huntingdonshire in succession
to the Duke of Bedford.

" In May I took the Hunts Militia to camp at
Colchester.

" On the morning after our arrival, while the
other regiments in camp were at drill at the goose
step, I took out the battalion to battalion drill.
I saw the General riding about in plain clothes.
I practised the men in the most difficult, ridiculous,
and now obsolete movement of marching to a
flank in oblique echelon to my, and I believe to
his, entire satisfaction.

" This summer I suffered from eczema in the
foot, and went with Cooper, who was also ailing.

1891] HOMBURG 207

to Homburg on September 7th and stayed at *
Ritter's Park Hotel.

" I dined on my arrival with the Prince of
Wales, who was leaving that night, at the Kursaal,
and met the Marquise Montagliari [nU Fuller)
and her husband. Lady A. and Miss Chandos-Pole,
Sir G. Lewis, Chester Arthur (son of th6 ex-Presi-
dent, U.S.A.), and Mr. Smalley. I went with
Lord and Lady Esher to Frankfort to see the
Electrical Exhibition and to hear the new opera
Cavalleria Rusticana, and another day with Prince
and Princess E. of Sax e- Weimar to dine with the
Oppenheimers and see the ballet Excelsior.

" I lunched and dined with the Empress
Frederick at the Schloss, and played lawn tennis
with her daughters, the Princess Victoria of
Schomberg-Lippe and Princess Margaret, now
the Princess Frederick of Hesse.

" I had long and many confidential conversa-
tions with the Empress on public affairs, on the
illness and death of her husband, on her relations
with her son, and on many subjects.

" She was very much occupied at the time with
the building of her new palace at Cronberg —
Friedrichs Hof : I spent a day with the Empress
there ; I was in the carriage with the Em-
press, Countess Perpoucher, and Sir J. Lubbock
(afterwards Lord Avebury). The conversation
turned towards Japanese insects, and I was
astounded how the Empress was competent to
discuss this and other abstruse subjects on even
terms with the philosopher. I have never met^
any woman endowed with such knowledge and

2o8 LIFE AT HINCHINGBROOKE [chap, xi

intellect, and very highly appreciated her gracious
kindness and courtesy.

" During my stay at Homburg I came across
the ivory ca^et on which is represented the
landing of King Charles II. and the first Earl of
Sandwich at Dpver. I gave £130 for this interest-
ing r^lic." »

CHAPTER XII

HERE AND THERE

The Diary

" In February 1892 Philip/ whose period of com-
mand of the Brigade of Guards and Home Dis-
trict would have expired on April ist, had some-
thing akin to a paralytic stroke at his of&ce at the
Horse Guards. He was taken to 4, Hobart Place,
where I visited him. He never entirely recovered
from this attack.

"In April I went to Wherwell for the launch
at Southampton of one of my brother Victor's
racing yachts. I think this was the occasion
when he got bored at a long luncheon and slipped
away without responding to the toast of his
health.

' ' My uncle, Lord Sydney, died on February 14th,
1890.

" My mania for building took a new turn in
April 1892. I had built so many cottages, farm
buildings, etc., that I determined to try my hand
in a more ambitious line, and I planned and erected
the ' Cottage ' at Hinchingbrooke, hardly realis-
ing how useful it would become to me, and how
many years of my life I should spend in it. One

^ General Philip Smith.
209

210 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

of my reasons for building it was that I contem-
plated extensive alterations at Hinchingbrooke,
and that it would be necessary for me to be on
the spot to supervise the work there.

" The cottage was finished in June 1893. I
have lived in it during nearly eight years, and it
has been occupied by the Walter Bagots, Lady
Sefton, G. Warburtons, C. Adeanes, Margaret
Bagot, Sir West and Lady Ridgeway, General Sir
R. and Lady Thynne, J. Cators, Minnie Lady
Hindlip, Edward Stonors, the Whites, K.R.R.,
R. Grosvenors, and Mrs. Villiers. So it has not
often been empty.

" At LuUingstone there were festivities at
Christmas for Percy val' s coming of age in October,
which were, however, dreadfully marred by the
distressing news we received from Cairo of my
brother Oliver's illness. My sister Emily and
Margaret Bagot hurried off during the party to
Egypt.

" He had had a bad attack of influenza in the
summer, after which he came to Hinchingbrooke
:^or the last time in June, and was still suffering
in his throat, but paid some visits in the autumn,
the last of which was, I think, to Sandringham.

"It was thought his lungs were affected, and
he was ordered to Egypt for the winter, but we
were not led to suppose that there was anything
serious.

" There was a great tenants' dinner in the Hall
at LuUingstone. I sat between father and son.
The former was dreadfully nervous about Perc5^s
speech, but he made an excellent reply to the

1893] DEATH OF COL. THE HON. O. MONTAGU 211

toast of his health, which I had the pleasure of
proposing.

" The reports of my brother were so unsatis-
factory that I started on January 13th, 1893, with
my niece, Lina Dyke, for Cairo. We caught a
horribly bad Messageries Maritimes steamer,
Senegal, at Marseilles. She could hardly steam
out of harbour and broke down two or three times
on the voyage. We were twenty-four hours late
at Alexandria.

" Emily met us at the station at Cairo on
January 20th, saying that Oliver's condition was
hopeless. He passed away at 5 p.m. on the
24th, at what was then the Hotel Continental.

" We held a funeral service, and his body was
carried by men of the Dorset Regiment and con-
veyed on a gun-carriage to the military hospital,
where it was embalmed and brought to England
in charge of his servant Young in the steamer Ar-
cadia, which reached Liverpool on February 20th.

"The Prince of Wales sent for me on the. 5th,
and showed the greatest sympathy and concern
in all details concerning my brother, and ex-
pressed many wishes with regard to the funeral,
which he desired to attend.

" On the loth the Princess of Wales received
me at Sandringham, and also made the tenderest
inquiries concerning all the circumstances of his
illness and death.

" Oliver had been on the most intimate terms
with T.R.H. for very many years, and they were
deeply grieved at his passing away.

" In the afternoon I spent a considerable time

212 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

with the Prii^cess in the room where Prince Eddy
had died a year ago. She recounted to me all
details of his life and death, and was still over-
whelmed with the loss she had sustained, and
from which I do not think she has ever recovered.
His room had not been changed in any respect.

" On February 23rd the funeral of my brother
Oliver took place at Brampton. The Prince of
Wales and Duke of York arrived by special train
at 11.30. I drove to the rectory garde'n, Bramp-
ton, with the Prince.

" After luncheon I took the Prince and the Duke
of York to see the building of the ' Cottage '
which was in progress.

" The early death of my youngest brother was
a great grief to me. On the following day I re-
ceived a bad account of my Aunt Emily, Lady
Sydney. She never recovered the shock of the
news of Oliver's death. It affected her mind even
more than her body. She died on March 9th,
aged eighty-three years, having survived her
husband just three years, and was buried at
Chislehurst, where she had erected a beautiful
recumbent statue to her husband.

" Thus passed away a very remarkable woman
and a great power in the family. Whatever hap-
pened, the general question was, ' What will
Emily — or Aunt Emily — say ? ' Her house in
London, at 3, Cleveland Square, was the great
rendezvous of all members of the family at all
times, and in earlier days of the elite clique of
London Society. In her youth she was considered
a great beauty and certainly possessed in an

^"■^

H.M. KING EDWARD VII AND THE EARL OF SANDWICH
Photographed at Hinchingbrooke

2 12]

1893] DEATH OF COUNTESS SYDNEY 213

eminent degree the ' talent de la society.' This,
however, failed signally on one occasion. She
was entertaining a large party of neighbours at
dinner at Frognal, and noticing that a man who
sat next to her did not speak at all to the lady

he had taken to dinner, she said, ' Mr. , I

don't think you know Mrs. ' {i.e. the lady

at his side) ; the ra^n replied, ' Oh yes, I do.
Lady Sydney ; she is my wife.'

" Her religious views were of the extreme Low
Church, and although very fond of music and the
drama she never went to a theatre. She ap-
proved of chess on Sunday, was doubtful about
draughts, but absolutely forbade the game of go-
bang. She was a law unto herself and was some-
what intolerant of the views of others. Her kind-
ness and hospitality knew no bounds. Like her
husband, she was supposed to hold politically
advanced views. I know no people who socially
were more conservative. My whole life was most
intimately and affectionately connected with her ;
the blank caused by her death could never be
filled, and I am thankful that I was of great ser-
vice to her in her latter days, and she left me, as
executor, all her and her husband' s correspondence.
Having been all his life intimately connected with
the Court of Queen Victoria, there was little
which could be published without indiscretion.

" Lady Sydney had kept all letters and gave
those of her relations back to them before she
died. I have several books of autograph letters
which she retained in my possession, and which
are very interesting.
15

214 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

" On September gth I took up my abode with
Philip at the Cottage, preparatory to the altera-
tions at Hinchingbrooke, which were begun on
March 5th, 1894.

"On February 24th, 1894, 1 j oined the Royal train
at Cambridge and went to Sandringham to meet
the Empress Frederick. The establishment came
down from Marlborough House for two nights.
I spent Monday driving with the Empress, the
Prince, and Count Seckendorf to visit the farms,
schools, cottages, and various other works which
the Prince had constructed or renovated on the
estate, in all of which he took the greatest interest,
and of which he had a wonderful knowledge, ex-
plaining every detail. I was very much amused
at seeing the Empress scrambling about farm-
yards, etc.

" On March 20th I received a telegram an-
nouncing the death of my stepmother Blanche,
in Charles Street, Mayfair. I had had a most
vivid dream during the night of lier death. It
was impressed upon me with such unique force
that I could not realise it was only a dream. I
went early into the garden to shake off the illu-
sion, wh6n the telegram was brought to me, and I
felt quite bewildered. I knew that she had been
unwell, but when the doctor saw her on the
morning before she died he told her she would be
able to get up on the morrow, so that there was
not the slightest idea of her condition being serious.

" She was buried at Brampton.

" On May 17th my cousin, Evelyn Paget, with

1894] A WONDERFUL ESCAPE ^5

whom I was very intimate, and who constantly
stayed with me, died unexpectedly while on a
visit to Brighton. She was Maid of Honour to
the Queen, and daughter of my uncle. Lord Alfred
Paget.

"In October I was going up the ladder to get
on to the roof of the Cottage when, in leaning
forward to open the door, the ladder slipped from
under me. I fell forward on to the landing and
then backwards on to the ladder, which was lying
on the floor below. Alfred Yorke and G. War-
burton, who were coming up the stairs, saw the
fall. My dog Jack was terribly perturbed and
came and licked me with all his might ; the maids,
who were adorning themselves for their Sunday-
afternoon walk, came on to the scene en des-
habille. My escape was wonderful, but I was
very much bruised.

" I had not been quite satisfied about Philip's
strength lately, and wanted that excellent fellow
Brigade-Surgeon C. E. Harrison, who had at-
tended him all along, to come down and see him.
He was, as usual, absorbed in his duties with the
Brigade, and said he would see Philip when he
returned to London. Philip, however, was con-
cerned about the effect of my fall and got him
down to look at my condition. He came down
on October 27th. Philip's brother Robert had
recently died, so we were alone, and thus, most
mercifully, Harrison was here when the final
attack came. Phihp was coming to church as
usual on Sunday, October 31st, when I dissuaded
him from doing so, not being happy about his

3i6 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

appearance, although Harrison had not noticed
any change, and when Harrison and I started I
desired a servant to watch him and send for us
at once if he obsei'ved anything unusual. We
were summoned from church within twenty
minutes. We found him insensible. He never
recovered cojisciousness, and passed away about
I a.m. on November ist. All Saints' Day.

" His body was removed to Wendover on the
3rd. On the 5th I attended a memorial service
at the Military Chapel, Wellington Barracks — his
work — which was crowded with his relations,
brother officers, and friends. The choir from St.
Paul's Cathedral attended, and sang more beauti-
fully than any other choir I have ever heard.

" In August 1858 I first met Philip. In the
following year he had become adjutant of the
2nd BattaUon, and then arose our devoted friend-
ship, which had never ceased and which has been
the best experience of my life.

" His one object in life was duty, and his aim
the glory of God. I erected the West Window
in Brampton Church to the memory of my friend
and comrade.

" On February 12th, 1896, 1 took lip my abode
in renovated Hinchingbrooke, and spent most of
the year in getting the house and garden in order.

"In November I was elected Mayor of Hunt-
ingdon in anticipation of the Queen' s Jubilee, and
served in that capacity for three years.

"In this year I built the steam laundry at
Huntingdon. I found that the work wa,s being

1897] THE DIAMOND JUBILEE 217

sent to other places, and thought that it would
give employment to many in the town. The first
stone was laid by my niece, Mary Montagu. I
had many difficulties at first. However, in the
flux of time all objections were overcome. It has
been a success, and, I believe, a benefit to the
town.

" I spent a week in London for the Queen's
Jubilee, and saw the procession from Devonshire
House.

" I attended the Queen's reception of the chair-
men of county councils, but did not march past
again as mayor.

" We went on the top of an omnibus to visit
the illuminations in the city. The progress was
very slow, on account of the gigantic crowds.

" An American widow, who lived in Paris, was
dining in Hill Street and asked me across the
table, relative to some joke, whether a lord-
lieutenant could confer titles in his county. I
answered that I could only confer one, i.e. that
of countess.

" For the benefit of the men of Huntingdon,
and in memory of my mayoralty, I built the
Montagu Club, in order that the working men
should have a place of resort and amusement
without the necessity of visiting public-houses. I
made no restrictions as to the regulations beyond
that I should be president and nominate the vice-
president, that the management should be in the
hands of an elected committee. The club has
been a great success, and I believe that it has been
of great benefit and very much appreciated. I

2i8 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

have had for many years an excellent vice-presi-
dent in Mr. John White and secretary in Mr.
Friend,

" On January nth, 1898, we had theatricals at
Hinchingbrooke : Barbara and Betsy Baker were
played, followfed by a dance.

" My nieces displayed great histrionic talent.

" On the 1 2th I started with George Montagu
for Egypt. We reached Port Said on the 19th,
where my former dragoman in 1892, Salah
Ahmed, met us.

" We spent a week in Cairo, during part of
which we had bitterly cold weather, and paid
Billy Dyke a visit at Helbuan.

"We met the Grenfells, Rennell Rodds, Sir
William Garstin, Lady D'Arcy Osborne, etc,

" On the 29th we sailed in the dahabieh Ahla
up the Nile.

" I cannot imagine a more delightful life if
desperately in love and the object is with you —
or if suffering from paralysis, as you would be at
no disadvantage with your companions ; other-
wise I think the life too wearisome for words.
You may start with a fine breeze and spin along
lustily, and arrive at a bend of the river where
the wind is foul and have to haul in to the bank ;
you may have a strong wind and expect a good
day's progress, and you stick on a sandbank.
When the wind is contrary, the towing and punt-
ing process is awful ; the men struggle for hours
to make five miles a day. Our best run was fifty-
one miles, our worst four. The flies are awful;

1898] DELIGHTS OF A DAHABIEH 219

sandstorms very disagreeable. The men roll
themselves in their blankets and are immovable.

" One day the reis (captain) had a row with
the mate, who seized the captain by the throat.

" We reached our highest point, Assouan, on
February 24th. It was very hot. We had a
very interesting day — visiting Philae before its
destruction, and returning by boat down the
cataract. Lord and Lady Loch and family were
at Assouan with us. We had also met the Smith
Barry s near the Naghamali railway bridge.

" We started on our return voyage on the 28th,
having met the engineers and contractors who
got the concession two days before to construct
the dam and locks at the cataract, to be finished
within five years. We occasionally passed
steamers towing barges with troops for the ^
Soudan. We landed and visited all points of
interest, of which Luxor is the most important,
where we spent three days. Coming down the
river is, of course, easier work — the men row at
times, at others we floated with the current.
On one occasion, at Gebel Abu Feda, the reis took
the wrong channel, and we stuck hopelessly on a
sandbank at 3 p.m. The sheikh of a neighbour-
ing village came to the rescue, and with his
twenty men and our crew, all naked on the bank,
struggled in vain to get us off. The sheikh
remained on board all night, and the villagers
returned early in the morning and continued their
struggles. The water in the river was ebbing,
and the reis alluded to the. possibility of the
dahabieh being permanently stranded. After

220 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

several hours I told the reis he would never get
his boat off. I saw how ridiculous their tactics
were, half the men working against the others,
and I took command. I got the boat clear in a
few minutes. The sheikh and reis cime and made
profound obeisance, and we got back into the
main stream. At the end of twenty-four hours
we were three miles back on our course.

" We got down to Rodah on the 2ist, and
determined to leave the boat and go on to Cairo
by train.

" Lord Cowpefs servant had recently been
murdered near the river, having gone ashore
from the dahabieh, and strict orders were given
to the dragomen on no account to allow Euro-
peans to land alone. It was a bore never being
allowed to walk about alone. George was always
accompanied by a Nubian — I by an Egyptian, by
name Mahmoud.

" The day before we left the boat we four were
lying together on the bank smoking cigarettes.
I gave one to the Nubian, upon which Mahmoud,
to whom I had of course given cigarettes, and with
whom I had, during three weeks, become very
friendly, asked me for a cigarette. I refused and
said he should be very grateful for those given
to him, but should not ask for more. Upon which
he came up to me by way of showing me his
tobacco pouch, and pulled the cigarette I was
smoking out of my mouth and began smoking
it. It was the funniest sensation. We were all
amazed at his cheek, but I am afraid I could not
help laughing. When we got back to the boat.

1898] PENITENT MAHMOUD 221

I called the dragoman, and without mentioning
what had happened told him and the crew that
I had never been treated with such familiarity,
and that Mahmoud ought to be bastinadoed, but
that I would pass it over with a severe reprimand.
In strict coniidence I told the dragoman in the
evening what had occurred. He was furious, and
I was afraid that he would visit it so harshly that
the next morning, before the crew, I told him that
I forgave him, and in token gave him a box of
cigarettes. The poor chap was very penitent, and
wept copiously as we parted at the railway station.

" We ho^da most interesting visit to the Museum,
which was then at Ghizeh, with Captain Lyon, R.E.,
but I have found it very difficult to arrive at any
definite conclusion as to the history of monuments
and antiquities of Egypt. Every authority differs
from the other.

" We intended to join the P. & O. China, but
she was wrecked at Perim, and we travelled on
March 26th, 1898, in the Austrian-Lloyd Cleopatra
to Venice. Lady Grenfell, Sir W. and Lady Eden,
Comte de Lonyay, and Baron Nicolas de Vay
were on board, as well as a cargo of 25,000 sacks
of onions !

" We stayed a night at Milan and arrived at
Hinchingbrooke on April ist.

" After a visit to the Bishop of Peterborough
and Lady Mary Glyn at Peterborough, to attend
a meeting of the Navy League, and to LuUingstone,
I started with Misses Fanny and Agnes Keyser for
a tour in Italy on March i6th, 1899.

" We visited Naples, Salerno, whence we visited

222 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

Poestum and its temples, Amalfi, an ideal spot,
whence we went to Rovello Cathedral. We drovq
along the coast road to Sorrento with its pre-
cipitous cliffs.

" We spent ten days at Rome during the Easter
celebrations, where there was a great contrast to
my previous experience. Instead of seeing the
Pope celebrating mass in the Sistine Chapel, there
was a howling crowd of Germans shouting
" Colossal." V

" We went on to Florence. I went early one
morning to the Santa Croce, where a man whom
I remembered well, but to whom I could not put
a name, came up and talked to me, when close
by I saw the Empress Frederick. Immediately
recognised him as Count Seckendorf. I had a
long talk with the Empress, and this was the
last time I met her.

" During the Boer War my friends Fanny and
Agnes Keyser turned their house in Grosvenor
Crescent into a hospital for sick and wounded
officers, and invited me to assist them in their
work. '

" I was a frequent visitor there during the war.
Their success was complete. So devotedly attached
to her work was Agnes that she assumed the name
of Sister Agnes, and later on founded the hospital
called Edward VII. Hospital, in Grosvenor
Gardens, to which as matron she devoted her
life and which continues to this day.

" I determined to assist as far as I could, and
Hinchingbrooke became a convalescent hospital.

igoo] HINCHINGBROOKE A HOSPITAL 223

I received officers from February 2nd, i960, to
June 6'th, 1902, many of whom came from the
Keysers, and I never had a doctor or a nurse in
the house during that ^^ time. I have a book at
Hinchingbrooke which contains their names and
their records.

" This was many years before I knew of my
gift, but I fully recognise now that I then pos-
sessed the power of healing.

" I was fully occupied all the summer with my
patients, one of whom was under my care on and
off from June 2nd to November 14th, his thigh
having been shattered at Colenso. For the first
three months he could not move without assistance.

" A Canadian was with me for six weeks suffer-
ing from an attack of sunstroke at Paardeburg,
which affected his mind and limbs. An officer was
with me who arrived on the understanding that he
was never to see a woman. I arranged accordingly.

" Madame Melba had proposed to .pay me her
usual visit, but I had told her that I was sorry I
could not receive her, as Hinchingbrooke was a
hospital ; upon which she most kindly said, ' Oh,
do let me come and sing to your officers ! ' I
accordingly asked a few friends to meet her, and
told the officer that he must have his meals, etc.,
alone for a few days. He very soon asked to be
allowed to join us, and I soon found him quite
serene, having got over his objection. The draw-
ing-room was a curious scene on these evenings,
with ladies in smart attire and the officers in
dressing-gowns with crutches and all variety of
hospital attire.

224 HERE AND THERE [chap, xii

" We were not free from practical jokes. Two
officers had been together at Brighton ; one had
written a letter to the other as from a young lady
desirous of making an appointment with him
on the pier. He went to meet her, and of course
there was no young lady. The joke was kept up
by correspondence, and a letter was written pur-
porting to come from the young lady, who had
come to Cambridge to be near him, and announc-
ing her intention to come over to Hinchingbrooke
to see me in order that she might make his acquaint-
ance. I thought it best to bring the matter to
an end, so it was arranged that in the presence of
both officers the arrival of the lady should be
announced to me by Cooper. I went to my room,
where the young lady was introduced to the ofiicer
in the form of the perpetrator of the joke. The
victim had been so horrified at the idea of the
young lady coming to see me that he was much
relieved instead of annoyed at the denouement.

" On September nth I went to Paris to stay
with Lionel Earle for the Exhibition, of which
he was one of the Royal Commissioners, which
was most interesting. I met the Alexander
Munsters and lunched with Melba and her sister
Miss Mitchell. I lunched with Colonel and Mrs.
Jekyll, who was in charge of the British Depart-
ment, and met the Devonshires, Crewe, and Con-
stant, who had recently painted a portrait of the
Queen. He told me that he asked Her Majesty
on two occasions her opinion of the picture ; the
only remark she made was that the ribbon of the
Order of the Garter was a little too pale. We

igoo] IN THE JUNGLE 225

went to the races at Longchamps. I dined with
my old friend the German Ambassador, Munster,
who was terribly anti^English on the subject of
the Boer War.

" On December 9th I started with Alfred Yorke
for Ceylon, embarking at Genoa in the Hamburg-
America steamer Hamburg. I was amused by
an American the first evening of the voyage.
Cruising along, we saw an island right ahead ; he
said to me, ' I guess that island had better get out
of our course, if it does not want to be cut in two.'
There was a very strong wind in the Canal, and
we stuck for fourteen hours.

" On the 31st we went by train to Kandy, and
stayed at the 'Pavilion' with the Governor,
Sir West and Lady Ridgeway. I was delighted
at being again in this lovely country. We re-
turned to Colombo on the 4th, to the hospitable
Judge Laurie's, and on the'iSth started to drive to
Amaradhapura through the jungle, sleeping three
nights on the way. It was very hot, but the
tropical vegetation was splendid and the animal life
most interesting. We visited the site of the
buried cities, the monastery, and tanks; we met
the Buddhist Lama of Siberia, and Mongolians
travelling with the Russian consul at Colombo.
We went on by road and rail to Nuwara Eliya
through glorious scenery, with Adam's Peak in
the distance, and again s,tayed with the Ridge-
ways at the Queen's Cottage.

" I took many drives with Lady Ridgeway in
this most beautiful country. The weather was
perfect and not hotter than in a fiife English

226 HERE AND THERE [chap, xn

summer. 6,200 ft. above the sea, the Hakgala
gardens are exquisite.

" On the 19th I visited the camp of the Boer
prisoners at Digatalama. I was met by the .
Commandant, Colonel Vincent, and was carried
about by coolies in consequence of my bad foot.

" I visited the Boer General, OUivier, and his
two sons. He described his fights with General
Gatacre at Stronberg, and also General Roux of
Huguenot descent. The 4,936 prisoners were in
huts, each containing sixty-four men. I found an
officer. Bruin, A.D.C. to General Druvet, who had
been captured by Arthur Paget. I visited the
hospital, where the matron was very disconcerted
at not having received notice of our visit, but was
reassured when I told her that I was also the
matron of a hospital (there were 150 cases of
enteric fever) ; also the recreation-rooms -and
kitchens. There was a special camp for new
arrivals and a censor's office. The prisoners
were for the most part a very rough, unattractive
crowd. A telegram arrived while we were in the
camp announcing the Queen's serious illness. I
drove with Lady Ridgeway to the Rambodda Pass
— the scenery quite magnificent.

" On the 22nd we returned by train to Colombo/
through a lovely country. My foot had become
very inflamed and was attended by Dr. Perry.

" On January 23rd, 1901, we heard of the death
of Queen Victoria at 6.30 p.m. on the 22nd. It
was astonishing how deeply affected the natives
were. Everywhere there were displayed signs of
mourning."

CHAPTER XIII

THE FAR EAST

" I MADE up my mind to go on to Japan in the
Hamburg- America s.s. Kiaoutschau, about ii,ooo
tons, a new steamer on her first voyage. Before
leaving I went with the Governor on board the
Boer hospital-ship Atlantis in harbour.

"We started at 7 p.m. on January 25th, 1901,
and had a very smooth and hot passage to Penang.
Among the passengers was Dr. Ballin, the boss
of the German mercantile marine, with whom the
German Emperor had dined on board on the eve
of the ship's departure.

" He was most urbane, and offered me his cabin
when he landed at Singapore, and ordered all
facilities for my future travels. There was also a
Miss Howard, who had been governess to the
German Emperor's children, who was on her way
to Japan to educate one of the principal families
in Japan.

"We spent a day at Penang and visited the
Botanical Gardens and the waterfall. I asked
the guardian whence all the splendid plants were
brought in the most luxuriant and splendid gar-
dens. His answer was, ' Chiefly from Kew.'

" About twenty- four hours between Sumatra
and the mainland brought us to the very narrow

227

228 ' THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

entrance into the harbour of Singapore. It is
wonderful how these huge ships are brought up
alongside the wharf. Our cabin windows were
far above the tops of the houses. We landed at
10 a.m. on the 31st and drove some three^ miles
to the town, agid thence some fifteen miles through
city and jungle, crossing the water in a boat to
Johore. We lunched at the hotel and had our
first experience of Chinese waiters. We visited
the Sultan's palace, mosques, Zoological Gardens,
and gambling-rooms. On our retulrn I called on
the Governor, Sir A. Swettenham, who had a
charming house in a park outside Singapore.

" The weathet was very hot and my foot became
very bad. We left Singapore on February ist
in gloriously fine weather, which rapidly changed,
and on the 3rd we came in for a gale of wind,
gloomy sky, and very rough sea. We had a very
bad time for twenty-four hours, and I was unable
to get about owing to my foot. The weather
improved as we approached Hong Kong, which
We reached on the 6th. Alfred, Specht, and I
landed and went about in rickshaws. I was very
much struck by the brilliant gaiety of the streets.
We endeavoured to explain to the coolies that we
wished to see all the sights of the place, but their
one idea seemed to be that I must be taken to a
hospital. We first went to a civil hospital, which
I declined to enter ; then to the military hospital,
with the same result, upon which we were taken
to the cemetery, where 1 also declined to be left.

"We left Hong Kong under, a fine, cloudless
sky, smooth water, and steamed along the coast

igoi] SHANGHAI 229

through crowds of fishing-boats in the Formosa
Channel. As we neared the Yang-tse-Kiang we
came into its yellow waters.

" The eczema now attacked my hands, which
were very bad for four or five days. We anchored
in the river at 3 p.m. Several men-of-war were
lying there — the Glory, Barfleur, etc. Alfred
Paget sent down a midshipman, Grubbe, in the
company's launch to meet me. We had an hour
and a half run up to Shanghai, when I went on
board Alfred's ship, Astrcsa, a second-class cruiser
of 5,000 tons. It was bitterly cold, with a pierc-
ing northerly wind — a terrible contrast to the
extreme heat eight days before.

" Shanghai is situated on a confluent of the
river and consists of a huge Chinese city and the
European quarter.

" I called on the Admiral, Sir James and Lady
Bruce, and drove to the Chinese city, through
which I was carried on a chair by coolies. The
streets are so narrow that I sometimes balanced
myself in the chair by touching the houses on
either side. They were very filthy and the
crowds immense.

" We visited the Tea-house (which gives the
pattern to many a tea-service), the temples, and
the Exchange.

"In the afternoon we drove out about six
miles on the Nankin road and saw masses of
graves where the bodies are scarcely covered with
soil, and camps where the foreign troops are
stationed. The country is flat and ugly.

" The Admiral and Captain Warrender of the
16

230 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

Barfleur and dthers dined, and we rejoined the
Kiaoutschau on the following day and started in
the evening. After twenty-four hours of bitterly
cold and rough weather with snow and squalls,
we got under the lee of Japan and anchored in
Nagasaki harbour on February 13th.

" The harbour is very long and narrow, and
was full of men-of-war and steamers. We visited
the town in rickshaws ; very muddy and a cold
thaw.

" We lunched at the hotel and three geishas
were produced, but they danced under difficulties,
as the paper walls were constantly blown down
and the snow drifted into the room.

" The harbour is surrounded by mountains,
which are covered with huge advertisements, but
the general scenery is very pretty. We started
again in the evening, and had a rough night be-
fore entering through the straits of Shimonoseki
into the Inland Sea, which was smooth and lovely
in spite of occasional snowstorms. The naviga-
tion must be very difficult, as islands and rocks
abound. We reached Kobe at 11 p.m. on the
15th, where Japanese doctors again inspected
all the passengers, as at Nagasaki. My servant,
Kimoto, sent by Consul Hall, came on board, and
we visited the town and a beautiful house full of
curios and gatrden belonging to a rich merchant.

" My foot was still too bad for me to leave the
doctor, so we continued our voyage by sea on the
Pacific Ocean to Yokohama, and thence one hour
by rail to Tokio.

" I had missed Sir Claude Macdonald's letter

igoi] JAPAN 231

at Kobe, so we stayed for the night at a big Euro-
pean hotel, where I found that the Japanese
were not all given to sobriety. Dr. Specht had
come up with me, and we went off to the German
doctor, Scriba, who, although at home, kept us
waiting so long that we went in search of the
Japanese doctor, Dohi, which was fortunate, as
he eventually cured when the English, American,
and German had failed.

" We took up our abode at the English Lega-
tion as guests of Sir Claude and Lady Macdonald,
who were most kind and hospitable.

" Her sister. Miss Armstrong, and the two chil-
dren. Ivy and Stella, were also there, all having
undergone that terrible experience during the
siege of the Legation at Pekin, during the Boxer
rising last year, and of which they gave us the
most interesting account.

" My foot gradually improved under Dr. Dohi,
who came daily to give it treatment. The blood
poison was so bad that, like the German doctor
at Homburg in 1891, he feared mortification
would ensue and that amputation would be neces-
sary, but after a week' s treatment the pain ceased
and there was a daily improvement.

" The shops were most attractive.

"On the 26th at 3 a.m. we had the experience
of an earthquake. The walls of my bedroom were
already cracked by former shocks, but beyond
the usual noise and tremor there was nothing
alarming on this occasion, and I soon went again
to sleep.

" On the 27th Macdonald and the Japanese

232 THE FAR EAST [chap, xni

secretary of the Legation took us to the House
of Peers. The debate on the Budget was opened
by the Vice-President. The Marquis Ito, Prime
Minister, spoke during the debate.

" The proceedings were apparently duller than
those of our House of Lords. There was no
symptom of applause, although the debate was a
very important one. The House of Peers would
not sanction the vote passed by the Lower House.
A deadlock ensued, which would be referred to the
Emperor for his decision.

" I met the Minister for Foreign Affairs, Kato,
and his wife. Baron Saunomija and his English
wife. Marquis Ito, Marquis Kuroda, and others.

" Owing to the mourning for Queen Victoria,
we could not ask for an audience of the Emperor,
but we paid a visit to the Palace, and were re-
ceived by the Grande Maitresse and the ladies of
the Court, and Saunomija, the Master of the Cere-
monies, who all spoke English. We were shown
all the state-rooms, which were full of lacquer
decorations, and were entertained with tea and
sweets.,

"On March ist the Macdonalds entertained
the leading members of the Corps Diplomatique
at dinner.

" On the 2nd I visited the 3rd Regiment of In-
fantry in their barracks. The regiment consisted
of three battalions. They were exercised at
company drill — the attack, bayonet exercise, gym-
nastics. I inspected the barrack-rooms, kitchens,
bathrooms, stores, which were very complete, and
the officers' mess, and was much struck every-

igoi] RELIGIOUS TOLERATION 233

where by the good order and complete organisa-
tion.

" We attended the English church on Sunday ;
a prayer against earthquakes is included in the
Litany, r

" All religions are regarded with equal rever-
ence in Japan. I believe the Emperor sent a
commission to inquire and report upon the
various religions observed in various countries of
the world, and as he was unable to pronounce
judgment on the subject he permits all religions
to be regarded on an equality.

" We visited all the principal temples in the
cities we stayed at in Japan, but I never saw any
religious ceremony being performed. I had a
conversation with a Shinto priest, but he did not
seem to be very cognisant of the doctrine of his
church.

" I visited the University with Macdonald and
Professor Dohi. Great attention is pafd to the
measurements of seismatic disturbances. It ap-
peared to me that more or less of an earthquake
was always in process in Japan.

" We were invited by Saunomija to the school
of fencing at the Palace, where the contests of the
Imperial fencers were very good.

" We paid a visit to Yokohama, which is cer-
tainly the most European city in Japan.

" Dohi paid me his last visit on the 5th, and I
was very grateful for his success in the treatment
of my foot at the cost of thirty-one pounds.

"On the 6th we left Tokio for Nikko, and I
wore a shoe for the first time. The weather was

234 ' THE FAR EAST [chap, xin

very wintry — hard frost, hot sun, and snow-
storms. The waiters at the hotel were charming
little girls ; the temples, the pagoda, the shrines,
the sacred bridge, the avenue of cryptomerias,
were splendid. We went to the waterfall, but
the slush and mud made a visit to Chanzenji
impossible.

" On the 8th we deft Nikko by train at ii a.m.
and reached Kamakura at 8.45 p.m., where we
found very fine, warm weather. Here is the huge
bronze Buddha, Dai Butsu, the Temple of Kwan-
non, the huge statue of the Goddess of Mercy,
of brown lacquer and much gilding, the Shinto
Temple of Hackiman, the God of War, and the
Avenue of Pines.

" We came across a crowd of men-of-war sailors
out for a march, and the beach was alive with
men collecting seaweed for manure. ''

" Macdonald and the Belgian Minister, Baron
and Baroness d'Anethan arrived from Tokio.

" We went on by train to Cotzu, then by electric
tram and eventually in rickshaws five and a half
miles up the mountains to Miyanoshita, 1,400 ft.
over the sea, and put up at the Hotel Fujiya,
which is built almost entirely of glass. The weather
was very wet and cold. I made acquaintance
with Mr. Chamberlain, the great authority on
Japan, who lives here. The country around is
quite lovely. We went up to Ashinoya, three
and a half miles, an ascent of 2,000 ft., where
there are sulphur baths. I found four Japs sit-
ting in one, at each corner of a square bath. We
went on to Hakone, where the Emperor has a
\

I

igoi] KYOTO 235

palace on a beautiful lake with a lovely view of
Fujiyama. I was carried up in a chair by four
men a great part qf the way. We stayed a night
at Shizuota and visited the fort and temple on
our way to Kyoto. The journey by rail passes
through a very pretty, interesting country. We
travelled in a long car on the state railway ; there
were four Japs in our carriage, who all sat on their
haunches on the seats. One sang the monotonous
Japanese songs without ceasing. I tried to rival
him with ' Ah non giunge' and other ditties with-
out avail. Kimoto told me he was a famous actor.

" At Kyoto a carriage, the only one I saw there,
sent by the master of our hotel, conveyed us some
miles to the Hotel Miyako, where we had charm-
ing Japanese rooms and were most comfortable.

" Kyoto is the most delightful, interesting town
I have ever stayed in. Our hotel was charmingly
situated, with lovely views over the city and the
surrounding hills. Lovely weather, the sun hot,
with a keen air. The shops most attractive.
The streets very lively. I went with Kimoto to
a theatre in the afternoon, which is totally unlike
anything European, and all the parts are taken
by men. In the evening we had a geisha enter-
tainment with the Dugdales at the hotel, and
were all photographed together by flashlight.

" March 21st was a national holiday for the
Equinox. The streets were all decorated with
flags and lanterns. Crowds everywhere and lovely
weather. We visited the china manufactory,
many temples, and many shops.

" On the 22nd we went two hours by rail to

236 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

Nara, a delightful place ; the park is full of tame
deer ; ^there are long avenues of lanterns— temples
— seven species of trees growing from one trunk
— the big bell cast a.d. 702 — the Dai Butsu, a
huge figure of Buddha with hands raised — the
museum of old relics and trophies of the Chinese
War; we saw a dance by eight girls called Kagura,
and visited the woods of Noyawa.

" My rickshaw-man, Kama, who waited at the
railway station while we were away, had taken
the opportunity of having his hair cropped; we
had become very friendly, and I found fault with
him for not having thereby improved his personal
appearance ; he answered that he hoped I would
remain at Kyoto until it had grown again.

" There was a very steep ascent from the street
to the hotel, up which I tried to insist on walking,
but he would never stop, and ran up it as hard as
he could.

" We went to the mouth of the canal, which is
carried through a mountain' in a tunnel, and made
delightful excursions to various temples in the
neighbourhood, amongst others to Kinkakuji,
which the Shogun in 1397 made his place of re-
treat from the world. We saw a pine-tree made
to grow in the shape of a ship, and had tea in the
Cha no yu style.

"On April ist we went by rail to a place
from whence we came down the rapids to Arashi-
yama. The scenery is lovely and the voyage very
exciting ; any mistake on the part of the boat-
man would be fatal. Kimoto took me in the
evening to all sorts of entertainments — a, conjufer.

igoi] ; OSAKA 237

/ swimming competitions, children acrobats — and
to the big theatre, where there was a play and
cherry-blossom dance.

" I visited the exhibition recently opened (the
Japanese do not excel in oil-painting), the fine
arts museum, and the garden of Yamagata. We
went by rickshaw, with two men to each, along
the Tokaido road to Otsu, a large town on Lake
Biwa.

" We left this most enchanting city on April 6th.
We had a great send-off from the hotel and at the
station by our Japanese friends. I had arranged
for Kama to come down with my dogs, Chibi and
Fuji, which I had bought at Tokio, to the steamer
at Kobe. Kimoto came to me in the morning to
say that Kama was in despair at not being
allowed to drag me to the station. I had thought
he would get so hot before his journey, as it is
about five miles from the hotel to the station,
and had accordingly arranged that he should be
conveyed with the dogs. I of course acceded.
The Japanese are very hard on these men, and
never think of getting out to walk up a hill ; their
lives are said to be short, and they generally die
early from consumption.

" We spent some hours at Osaka, the great
manufacturing town of Japan. The feudal castle
is a very strong place, with enormous stones in the
walls of the fortress, and the city very busy and
thriving. Kimoto' s house is at Kobe, and he
invited me to a Japanese dinner, and he gave me
a sword which had belonged to a Daimio with
' Oudakuniossi ' written over the blade.

238 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

" We had a lovely day for the voyage in the
Inland Sea, and passed the Japanese fleet. The
weather at Nagasaki was very different from what
it was when we arrived in Japan. Instead of
snow and cold, it was yery fine and warm.

" I was very glad to have had a glimpse of this
lovely country and delightful people, and have
always looked back with joy to the happy time
I spent in Japan.

" We left Nagasaki at 6 p.m. on the gth, and
were off the Shanghai River early on the nth,
where we spent two dayfe. Here also there was
a great change from cold to warmth.

" I met the Admiral, Sir Michael Seymour. We
left the Yangtse on the i3,th in foggy weather,
which continued to Hong Kong ; it was some-
times so thick that you could not see for more
than two or three yards. It was in this fog that
the Sobraon was wrecked. The fog lifted as we
approached Hong Kong through a huge fleet of
fishing-boats. Here I stayed at ^Government
House with Sir Henry and Lady Blake, and paid
a visit to the Gascoignes.

" Sir Henry took me to see the gaol, the Chinese
schools, the club, and the shops, which are very
attractive. The weather had become very hot.
We reached Singapore on the 2ist. The Duke
of York' s ship, the Ophir, occupied our berth along-
side the quay, and we had to remain in the harbour
until she cleared off at 6 p.m. We landed at 8.30
and went up to the town to look at the illumina-
tions, and found ourselves in a bazaar through
which their Royal Highnesses were to pass. A

igoi] H.R.H. THE DUKE OF YORK 239

Penang volunteer on duty tried to make us stand
back behind a barrier in the crowd of natives, at
which I remonstrated. He said, ' You will see
the Duke of York just as well behind the barrier.'
I replied that I did not want to see the Duke, but
that I wanted him to see me, and he was the
more staggered when they all came by and with
great surprise recognised me very warmly. The
illuminations were lovely and the whole scene
very pretty.

" The next morning I went up to Government
House to pay my respects to T.R.H. The streets
were crowded. I had difficulty in getting along
in my rickshaw pulled by a Chinaman, and when
I arrived at the gates of the park I was finally
stopped, as the entrance was closed.

" I sent my card to the O.C. ; the troops and
my Chinaman were fairly astounded when the
gates were opened and we went up the park
through crowds of school children drawn up along
the road.

" I found the Derek Keppels, Lady Catherine
Coke, Alexander of Teck, Roxburghe, Crichton,
sitting in the verandah, and spent a long time
with T.R.H. , who were very full of their experi-
ences during their tour, and much surprised at
seeing me in the crowd last night. When the
Duchess came in dressed for the function they
were about to attend, she was carrying a light
parasol. I told her it would be fatal to walk in
the open air with so little protection ; she said
it was so pretty, with which I agreed, and she
rather reluctantly went to get a more substantial

240 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

umbrella. The Duke told me he felt so awkward
walking alone following the Governor, who walked
in front with the Duchess. I suggested that in
his place I should let the Governor walk ahead
alone and follow with the Duchess, which he
thought a brilliant idea !

" On my return to the*ship, I think I experi-
enced the greatest heat I have ever felt. It was
so hot meeting the air in the rickshaw that I was
obliged to stop occasionally.

" My foot began again to give me trouble.

" We left Ceylon on the 29th. There was a
very heavy swell on. We met the CMna, which
had encountered very bad weather. We were
following a cyclohe. The Konig Albert was mar-
vellously steady; she did not seem capable of
rolling, but pitched a bit. It was impossible the
ship should remain steady in such a sea. I was
very anxious about my little Japs, who would
run in and out of the stanchiqns, and it was mar-
vellous that they did not tumble overboard. Off
Socotra we came in for the first whiff of the south-
west monsoon. We spent six hours at Aden, where
it was very hot.

" Sister Lucy, Miss Rutherford, whom I had
met as matron of the Boer Prisoners' Hospital in
Ceylon, was on board, and was much interested in
passing Perim, where she had been wrecked in the
P. & O. China. She was very devout, and one
day, while we were discqursing on prayer, I asked
her to pray for my foot, which was giving me
trouble. She said, ' I will pray for your soul.' I
was obliged to say, ' While you are about it, you

igoi] SANDRINGHAM 241

might as well pray for the whole of my foot.' It
unfortunately was very bad all the way home.

" We arrived in England on May i6th. Six
officers had been at Hinchingbrooke during my
absence, and I soon had new arrivals on my
return.

" On June 19th I was invited to Sandringham,
and paid my first visit to the King. I arrived
with Lady Esher and Arthur Paget. Queen
Alexandra came into the hall shortly after our
arrival. I did my best to kiss Her Majesty s
hand, but she would not allow it. I found the
King playing golf in the park. I made the sem-
blance of kneeling, for which the ground was
hardly suitable, and kissed his hand.

" The household was a combination of the late
Queen's and the former Prince of Wales's, and
did not work as smoothly as usual. I was not
told with whom I was to go in to dinner. There
was a pause, and I found Princess Victoria was
waiting for me.

" I found in my room a copy of the photograph
which was taken when we were in New York in
i860 of the Prince of Wales and his suite. In
thanking the King for it I asked him to write his
name. He said, ' I will sign it as I was -then,'
and he wrote the names of the others under their
pictures, some of which on Lord Lyons' staff I had
forgotten. I then asked him to write his present
signature, which he did. The picture is at Hinch-
ingbrooke, with his S'ignature as Prince and King.

" I went my first drive in a motor-car with the
King and Arthur Paget.

242 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

" The King showed me how fast the car could
go and how quickly it could be stopped. I was
of course astounded at the speed, and suggested
we should have to spend the night together in
Norwich Goal. It was amusing to see the various
receptions accorded to the King on the road. We
passed brewers' vans and were vociferously jeered
at, and on the other hand ladies jumped off their
bicycles and curtseyed. We went round by Hun-
stanton, and when we got back the King offered
me the car to visit the convalescent home, where
he was entertaining officers who had been wounded
in the war.

" I had a room on the ground floor, and while
dressing in the morning I saw Prince Edward of
Wales digging holes in the walk near my window.
I went out and suggested that his grandfather
might not approve. He said, ' I am waiting here
for the King.' I asked if he was coming out by
that door ; he answered, ' Sometimes he comes,
sometimes he don't, but he likes to find me here'
if he does come.' The children were staying with
their grandparents during their parents' absence
abroad.

" The King took me all over his gardens, and I
was astounded at his knowledge of horticulture,
and the great interest he took in all his works in
the garden and farm.

" On February 17th, 1904, I travelled with my
sister Emily to Chateau de Garibondy, Cannes,
and stayed with Lady Alfred Paget.

" We greatly enjoyed the new experience of

1904] A NEW EXPERIENCE 243

motor drives. Cook had managed the transit of
the car. We had to go to Nice twice to get the
necessary permits, and the French authorities
gave a good deal of trouble. The accounts of the
roads in Italy were so discouraging that I left the
car at Cannes and went on with Emily to Rome,
where we stayed at the Embassy with Frank and «
Feo Bertie. We revisited many of the sights of
Rome, and had a very enjoyable time. Emily
unfortunately became very unwell and was un-
able to come away with me.

" I returned to Cannes on the i6th, and started
in my motor on the 19th, travelling in this way
for the first time — a very novel and interesting
experience. I slept at Avignon, Lyons, Dijon,
and Fontainebleau. Near Laroche a working
man asked me to give him a lift. I asked him
what he proposed to pay. He said that if he '
had any money he would have gone by train. I
took him in^ and when we reached his destination
he asked to be dropped and begged to be allowed
to write my name and address, and said, ' Mon-
sieur, je prierai le bon Dieu pour vous tons les
jours de ma vie.'

" Near Tonnerre a flock of sheep driven by an
old man occupied the whole road, while there was
plenty of room for theni on either side. The car
just touched one of them, but could not possibly
have done any damage. While I was at dinner
at Fontainebleau two gendarmes asked to see me.
They were very civil, but said they had received a
di^peche that I had injured a sheep. They asked
innumerable questions as to my age, parentage.

244 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

domicile, etc^ etc. When I asked what damage
was claimed and what they proposed to do, they
had nothing to say. I asked that the sheep
should be sent -to me and that I would pay for
the mutton ; an(i so with much bowing and drink-
ing my health the matter ended.
*

"In 1905 I gave up my house in Albemarle
Street and took possession of 18, Buckingham
Gate (the street in which I had lived formerly as
James Street) on June loth for the remainder of
the lease."

On July nth, 1905, Lord Sandwich was one of
the very few invited guests at the double w6dding
of two of the Queen's Maids of Honour. One of the
brides was his niece, the Hon. Mary Dyke, who
married Captain Bell of the Rifle Brigade ; the other
was the Hon. Dorothy Vivian, who married Major-
General Douglafe Haig.

Queen Alexandra took much interest in this double
event, which took place, by her desire, in the private
chapel in Buckingham Palace. She superintended
the arrangements herself, and decided on the pretty
white satin favours with " Doris " and " Mary "
written in gold letters on the ribbon.

Lord Vivian gave away his sister, and Sir William
Hart Dyke was prepared to do the same office for
his daughter, but was spared the trouble owing to
the clause being accidentally omitted. After the
ceremony a breakfast was held, during which the King
proposed the health of the newly-married couples.

It was the first time that any one, outside the
Royal Family, had been married in the Palace, and
an amusing incident occurred when Captain Bell
went to procure a special licence. He was asked
where the ceremony was to take place, and wheh
he replied in Buckingham Palace, the official thought
that he had taken leave of his senses.

1906] ST. EDWARD'S HOME 245

That evening much amusement was caused by
the placard of a newspaper that appeared in the
streets of London, with the following sensational
headlines : " Double Tragedy in the West End.
The Queen's Maids of Honour married " I

The Diary

"St. Edward's Home, of which little Edward
Scott-Gatty had laid the first stone on Feb-
ruary 1 8 th, was completed and first occupied on
July 27th. I had been to Cambridge to open a
bazaar for the Waifs and Strays Society's Home
there, and was so interested in the boys that I
thought it would be a bright idea to establish a
similar institution under my own care, which I
venture to hope has been most successful. There
are beds for a matron, a cook, and twenty-one
boys at the home, and I have generally three or
four besides with me at Hinchingbrooke learning
house or garden or other work. I have had
sixty-six boys under my charge, thirteen of whom
are now serving in the Army or Navy.

" The home was honoured by a visit from King
Edward on July 1st, 1906, and by many distin-
guished people of many nationalities, whose names
are inscribed in the book of visitors. The two
persons who apparently have taken the greatest
interest in the boys are of very opposite types,
i.e. Madame Melba and Lord James of Hereford.
Madame Melba gave them a gramophone with
many of her songs. When Madame Calve visited
the home, she asked permission to sing to the
boys, and we were enchanted at hearing her lovely
17

246 THE FAR EAST [chap, xiii

voice in the recreation-room without any accom-
paniment. Many visitors have said a few words
to the boys, but by far the best and most appro-
priate speech was made by a private of the Grena-
diers, who was on furlough and to whom I showed
the home. The boys were taught a httle drill
by him, and they invited him to stay to tea.
Before leaving he asked me to allow him to say
a few words to them, and I was amazed at his
eloquence and good taste."

CHAPTER XIV

AT HOME AND ABROAD

The Diary

" In January 1906 I paid a visit to the George
Montagus, who had recently hired Chalfont Lodge
in Bucks.

" On February 23rd I stayed with the Rev. S.
Donaldson, Master of Magdalene College, Cam-
bridge, and Lady Albinia Donaldson, and attended
a dinner of the Pepys Society. I was very much
interested in the library and many memorials of
that celebrated secretary of my ancestor.

" On March 24th I went to stay with the Berties
at the Embassy in Paris. The Duke and Duchess
of Devonshire were also staying there. I went
to a concert at the Chatelet, where' I heard
Colonne's orchestra. That wonderful violinist,
Mischa Elman, took part in Beethoven's Concerto,
and Strauss conducted his Sinfonia DomesUca,
which was beyond my musical comprehension.

"I went by train to Bordeaux, where I found
my motor-car with Woodbine, and motored to the
Hotel du ^alais, Biarritz.

" King Edward was staying at the hotel, and

sent for me shortly after my arrival. Biarritz

was quite transformed since I was there in 1883.

247

248 AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xiv

Crowds of hotels and villas had sprung up, and
the golf-course was a great attraction.

" The weather was lovely, and we went many
expeditions, visiting San Sebastian, Fuenterrabia,
St. Jean de Luz, Bayonne, the cemetery of the
3rd Guards officers, etc. The King took me to
see the great Basque game of Pelota, and the
Cassels gave H.M. a luncheon at Bigorre in the
Pyrenees, to which they invited me.

" On June i8th I motored to Windsor Castle,
where H.M. had invited me for Ascot races.
Owing to the recent death of the King of Den-
mark, Queen Alexandra was not present, and all
the guests were men. The King gave me per-
mission to visit the Royal Mausoleum and the
house and gardens at Frogmore."

Lord Sandwich now returned to Hinchingbrooke
to prepare for the visit of the King. A notice in the
Press shows that his character was" beginning to be
more widely appreciated : " Lord Sandwich, who is
to be the King's host at Hinchingbrooke House, is
one of the most cultivated and agreeable of bachelor
peers. Nay, more, he is one of those who ' do good
by stealth and blush to find it fame.' "

It was during this visit that the King's favourite
dog Caesar rolled Lord Sandwich's ^og over and over
in the grass. " I am glad," said Lord Sandwich,
" that you don't do that to me, sir 1 "

The Diary

"'On June 30th the King honoured me by a
visit to Hinchingbrooke. He brought a consider-
able lot of attendants, servants, chauffeurs, tele-
graphists', detectives, etc. He attended Divine
Service at ^ All Saints', Huntingdon, and visited

I906] VISIT OF H.M. KING EDWARD 249

St. Edward's Home. The boys behaved very
well; but I was told, and believe, that they were
more interested in seeing me for the first time in
a tall hat and frock-coat than in Seeing the King !

"In the afternoon we were photographed ' by
a man who was most amusing ; before leaving he
holloaed out to the King, ' Good-bye, Majesty.'

" We motored over to Ramsey Abbey and had
tea with Lord and Lady de Ramsey. On Mon-
day morning we motored to Kimbolton Castle.
The King spent about one and a half hours look-
ing over Louise, Duchess of Manchester's (then
Duchess of Devonshire) illuminated book of
photographs. His extraordinary tnemory gave
the names of all except one, which I was able
to recognise as Emma, Queen of the Sandwich
Islands.

"The weather was fortunately lovely; the
King motored in the afternoon to Newmarket,
whither I followed him to stay with Sir Ernest
Cassel for the July meeting. A place of un-
bounded luxury, with a private band.

"On August' 4th I motored with W. Wood-
bine and Frank Abbott to Harwich. We crossed
to the Hook of Holland, and were delayed at
Rotterdam by punctures, and did not reach the
frontier near Nijmegen until about four o'clock.
The last few miles we passed through a fair, with
crowds of Dutch people enjoying themselves^ and
I did not notice the Dutch frontier custom-house,
and we suddenly found ourselves at the German
frontier. I had paid all deposits and had* my
papers all in order. The officer took a long time

250 AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xiv

perusing "and verifying all the documents, and
then said, ' You can pass, but you must pay five
marks for the permit for yOur chauffeur.' I had
no German money, but produced English and
Dutch money. He would take none of it ; he
must have, German marks. He told me I must
go back six miles through all those crowds to
Nijmegen and get German money.

" I told him it was four o'clock and Sunday, and
that the bank would be closed. I offered him an
English sovereign. No, he must , have his five
German marks. There was no help for it : I had
to return. On reaching the Dutch custom-house,
I was stopped as coming from Germany. Within
a few hundred yards of Germany nobody could
understand a word of German. Here I was at a
deadlock. I managed to make them understand
that I must see the boss, who eventually appeared,
and was good enough to exchange some Dutch
equivalent to five marks at one of the booths, and
at last I was enabled to proceed. Having had a
fine experience of German officialism, I told the
story to King Edward, and I believe it got to the
ears of the German Emperor.

" I don't like motoring on an unknown road
at night, so I had to give up reaching Diisseldorf
and slept at a village called Murs, having found
the people drunk at two or three previous places
where I had tried to stop.

" My other halts were at Bingen, WiirzbUrg,
and Bayreuth. The Wagner Festival was going
on and a performance of Tristan, but there was
no seat to be had which I could endure.

1906] DEATH OF COOPER 251

" I reached Marienbad on the gth, and had to
deposit £70 at the Austrian frontier for my car.
King Edward was staying at the hotel. I dined
with him on the night of my arrival.

" My first afternoon was spent at a farewell
entertainment given by Miss Mary Moore, the
celebrated actress.

" I returned to England on the 28th.

" On my arrival at Hinchingbrooke I was much
struck at the change in Henry Cooper. He began
his career in service with my father, and after
living with the Duke of Richmond, Lord Tanker-
ville, and others, he became butler to my father.
He had continued his service with me since the
death of my father.

" Dr. Bruce Porter came to stay with me on
September 8th, and took him up to London for
consultation with Sir A. Fripp. Their report to
me was that he was suffering from internal cancer,
and that no operation or remedy was possible. I
felt that his fate was sealed, and that all I could
do was to make his life as cheerful as possible.

" One night in October I awoke at 2 a.m. and
found him standing, candle in hand, by my bed-
side. He said, ' My Lord, I'm in agony.' I deter-
mined that from that time he should suffer as
little as possible, and he was more or less under
the influence of morphia until his death on Decem-
ber 12th. He was bui^ed in our cemetery at
Brampton on December 15th. Thus passed away
a dear friend, a most faithful and devoted ser-
vant, respected and beloved by all the family
and by all who knew him, inasmuch as I received

252 AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xrv

one hundred letters of sympathy in my loss. The
King had given him the Royal Victorian Medal
on July 2nd, after his visit to Hinchingbrooke, in
recognition of his long and faithful service in the
family.

" During all this sad time my bailiff, H. Chap-
man, was dying of cancer at his cottage in the
park, an excellent and devoted servant, who had
spent his whole life in our service. He prede-
ceased Cooper by only a few days, and on his death-
bed gave me what he most treasu^red — 'his Bible.

" I left Hinchingbrooke after Cooper's funeral
cm. December 15th, and did not return to live
there iill May 27th, 1908. The Cottage was my
abode during those eighteen months.
; ":My S^alet,_ George Andrews, of whom more
later oh, succeeded Cooper.
u,".'FiFank.Abbotti another Brampton man, be-
cawe*' my 'V4letahd^ secretary; and has been my
constant attendant and companion ever since.
I owe a great deal of my comfort and happiness
in life to the village of Brampton.

" I had always had ih mind the revision and
publication of some of the family records.

"In 1889 Murillier, son of my neighbour at
Gibraltar, an able and intelligent fellow, arranged
and tabulated the papers, but I had not the time
or the energy to continue the work, and on the
advice of Mr. Sydney Lee I engaged Mr. F. R.
Harris to assist me in writing the life of Edward,
ist Earl of Sandwich.

"He came to Hinchingbrooke for that purpose
in October 1906, and was constantly there for a

I

tgoS] GEORGE ANDREWS 253

year engaged in the work. - We found that many
of the records had apparently been lent at some
former time to the Bodleian Library at Oxford,
and had not been returned, and Harris subse-
quently went to Oxford to acquire the necessary
information.

'* The book was eventually published by Murray
in 1910..

"My niece, Lina Scott-Gatty, came to stay
with me this summer, and has made her home
with me ever since.

" I spent most of this year at the Cottage, with
occasional" visits to London.

"I went in the autumn to Hooke Cotirt.
Whilst there, my butler, George Andrews, who
had been unWell for sOme months, went up to
London to undergo an operation near the top of
his spine. My footman, who had been to see him,
told me that his agony was so great that he/could
not remain in the room with him. I went off
at once to see him and found him lying in a ward
adjoining the theatre. While I was talking with
Andrews about a visit he had received the day
before from the Duchess of Albany, he suddenly
said, 'Oh, my lord, this agony is returning! it'
is more than I can bear.' The intuition came to
me to say that he was not about to have the
retu^rn of his pain. I began talking to him of his
schooldays, etc. He remained free from pain
and had no return of it. The nurse was much
surprised, and told me that the suffering he had
experienced generally occurred after similar opera-
tions.

254 AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xiv

" This was my first direct experience of the
power I have since so constantly been permitted
to exercise.

"Before going abroad I left directions at the
hospital that when he was discharged, if he re-
quired special nursing, he was to be sent to a
home in London; if only ordinary attention, he
might return to Hinchingbrooke.

" I went abroad with Frank Abbott bn
January ist, 1908, and stayed two nights with
the Berties at the British Embassy in Paris, and
embarked at Marseilles in the HeliopoHs for
Alexandria.

"I stayed with Sir John and Lady Rogers at
Gezireh for a week, and went up to Assouan in the
tourist steamer Ger mania, where I found Percy
Dyke at the chg-rming hotel.

" Thence in the Nubia from Assouan to Wady
Haifa and by train to Khartoum. The hotel was
very indifferent and the food very bad.

" I made acquaintance with S latin Pasha, who
was delighted at having recently beeii made a
general in the British Army, an honour he ap-
peared to value more than any of the innumer-
able decorations and honours he had received.
He spoke very freely of all the horrors of the
experiences he had undergone, and entertained
me at a big dinner with the worst champagne I
have ever drunk.

"We visited the cjity, Omdurman, the scene
of the battle, the Gordon College, all of which was
very interesting. I was very much impressed with
the zeal and ability of the Government officials.

1908] ASSOUAN AND GEZIREH 255

" The Sirdar, Sir Reginald and Lady Wingate,
were very hospitable, and I went to a dance they
gave.

" The heat was very great. On our return
journey I was nearly devoured by sand-flies in
the train. We had a very severe westerly gale
at Assouan, and I had no idea it could be so cold
there.

" In old days' travelling one generally was some-
what oppressed by English fellow-travellers, who
were not always of the most attractive type of
our fellow-countrymen, but I found all this
changed; there were Germans everywhere, and
their loud shouts in donversation and the eternal
' Colossal ' were very distracting.

" I spent a week at Gezireh with Sir John and
Lady Rogers, returned in the HeliopoUs, and
arrived at the Cottage, Hinchingbrooke, on
March nth.

" On May 27th I took up my abode at Hinch-
ingbrooke. During this summer I went up occa-
sionally to London, paid two visits to the Arthur
Pagets at Coombe, where they had constructed a
beautiful villa and lovely garden. On the second
occasion the King and Queen came down from
London in the afternoon ; great preparations had
been intended for their entertainment ; the most
distinguished French and English actors were to
have given a performance; but it being Sun-
day objections were raised, and the idea was
abandoned.

" On February ist, 1909, I began the con-

256 AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xiv

struction of the new hall in the central court at
Hinchingbrooke .

" The firm of which I was chairman, Messrs.
Thackray & Co., were the builders. A good
many alterations were made in the interior of
the house, during which I discovered Serious
defects in parts of the building, which might at
anytime have brought about a conflagration.

" I also discovered the skeleton of a young
woman, probably a nun, only three feet under
the walk outside the Red Drawing-room.

" The hall was completed by June ist.

" I remained at the Cottage or in Buckingham
Gate, except for a Week at the British Embassy,
Paris, in April, until May 26th, when I returned
to Hinchingbrooke.

" On June 14th I motored to Windsor Castle and
was the guest of their Majesties for Ascot races.

" I drove on Tuesday and Thursday in the
Royal procession to the course.

"The most amusing part to me was the struggle
for invitation to the Royal luncheon, watching
the ladies who paraded in front of the stand in
competition.

." On Wednesday I received a message from the
King inviting me to motor with him to the course.
Before leaving he said, 'Shall you mind coming
with me to Virginia Water on "our way back ? I
want to visit old Captain Welch oil his eightieth
birthday; I gave him the C.V.O. this morning.'
I remember being terrified at the pace we motored
along the crowded high-road, and suggested that
he should have a flag on the bonnet of the car.

19,09] HIS SEVENTIETH BIRTHDAY 257

" On arrival at the cottage we found old Cap-
tain Welch and his nieces and a Swedish young
lady. They gave us tea. The Queen had been
there, but had left before our arrival.

" The King was like a boy chaffing old Welch,
who was full of anecdotes of old days often
connected with my uncle, Alfred Paget, and my
brother Oliver. He took great interest in the
garden and shrubs. We rowed on the lake and
boarded the frigate.

" We motored back through the park and Old
Windsor, arriving at the Castle about 8 p.m.

" On these occasions I was always surprised
how the King, with all his wonderful knowledge
of human nature, with all the vast experience of
life, with his unrivalled knowledge of all sorts and
kinds of men, could revert to the hilarity and
simplicity of his nature in boyhood.

" On June 19th the famous singer Madame
Calve spent two days at Hinchingbrooke arid
enchanted us with her beautiful voice.

" I was much interested in the great difference
betvfeen her and her great rival Madame Melba.

" On July loth a large family assembled at
Hinchingbrooke to, celebrate my seventieth birth-
day on the 13th: My brother Victor, with his
wife and three daughters ; my sister Emily, her
husband, and her daughters Lina and Sydney ;
my sister Florence, and her husband ; George
and Alberta Montagu, and their boys Victor and
Drogo ; Margaret and Marjorie Bagot ;. Bertie
Paget ; Alfred Yorke ; David Papillon ; Gerald
Bell; and G. F, Schweitzer.

258 AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xrv

" The entertainments consisted of a tenants'
dinner at the Fountain Hotel, a garden party at
Hinchingbrooke, a tea and dancing to all the em-
ployees on the estate, a parade of the Boy Scouts.

" At dinner Victor proposed my health, to
whidh I returned thanks, speaking down his
trumpet. The guests and household danced in
the new hall in the evening. I had many pre-
sents, amongst them a beautiful silver inkstand
from the members of the family. I made six
speeches during the course of the day.

" The county presented me with a bust of my-
self, executed by Mr. Tweed, on this occasion.

" On March 21st, 1910, I went to Paris with
my sister Emily and her daughter Sydney and
Gerald Bell; we joined our motor-cars at Bor-
deaux. We stayed a night at Mont de Marsan
on our way to St. Jean de Luz. We stayed a
fortnight at Pau and motored to Lourdes and to
Gavarnie in the Pyrenees just after the road was
open, a beautiful road with a wall of snow on one
side and a precipice on the other.

" Aviation was in its infancy at Pau. We saw
a dirigible, which contained twelve people, and
several aeroplanes at work.

"From Pau we motorecl via Agen, Limoges, and
Poitiers to Tours, whence we visited the Ch§.teaux
on the Loire, thence to Chartres, Rouen, and home
via Dieppe.

"On receiving the sad news of King Edward's
death on May 6th, I wrote to Queen Alexandra
to express my dutiful and profound sympathy.

igio] THE PASSING OF KING EDWARD 259

and received a telegram from Her Majesty in-
viting me to come to London to see her. I went
to Buckingham Palace, and was received by the
Queen in her sitting-room. She related to me all
the details as to the King's last days; she was
calm and brave in her great bereavement. After
a long interview she asked me to come with her
to the Throne Room, where the King's body was
l5dng. She said, ' There will be nobody there
except the Grenadiers, and you won't mind them.'
It was a very pathetic and solemn moment.
Alone with the widowed Queen and a sergeant
and four sentries of my old regiment, I knelt
beside the body of King Edward, the last of my
intimate friends since boyhood. I felt deeply the
great contrast between the little gathering in that
solemn peaceful room and the turmoil and excite-
ment which were agitating the world outside.

" I returned with the Queen to her room and
took leave of Her Majesty, deeply moved and
gratified by her gracious kindness.

" The Queen afterwards sent me the cigarette-
case and light-box which the King always used,
and the photographs of their Majesties taken at
their last opening of Parliament, with the follow-
ing letter :

Dear Lord Hinch,

I send you a small remembrance of the
King, which he always used, and also our last
photograph taken together, which I hope you
will like.

Yours very sincerely,
Alexandra.

26o AT HOME AND ABROAD [chap, xiv

" On June ist I went to Berlin and stayed at
the H6tel Esplanade. My niece Mary was also
in Berlin with Mrs. Leggett. We were invited
to luncheon with the Emperor and Empress at
Potsdam.

" The Emper9r received us on arrival, and after
some minutes' conversation the Empress came,
accompanied by her daughter and her son Prince
Oscar and the Court. The Emperor presented
me to the Empress, who was a very different
person from what I had expected. She was more
imperial and majestic in appearance even than
the Empress Augusta, beautifully dressed and
very' dignified in manner, •

''I, sat between the Empress and her daughter
at luncheon, and they were both full of lively
conversation. The Empress appeared interested
in all I could relate to her of my experiences dur-
ing the embassies to Berlin, on the Garter Mission,
and the coronation of Wilhelm I., and laughed
very much when I told her that I found all my
friends and acquaintances of those days converted
into statues.

■' The Princess was very attractive in appear-
ance and full of her delightful experiences of her
recent visit to England.

" After luncheon the Emperor took me aside,
and I had a long conversation with him alone.
He fepoke a godd deal of my long intimacy with
King Edward, and said the great drawback to
people in their exalted positions was the lack of
intimate friends who told them the truth. He
mentioned a recent visit he had had from Roose-

igio] THEN AND NOW 261

velt, and professed a regard for him as a man who
had spoken openly and unreservedly with him.
He spoke of the Jews and the power they exercised
over the Press in Germany, and regretted the
antagonism of the English Press towards his
country. His manner was so simple and easy
and friendly that it was difficult to realise the
great importance of his personality. It was evi-
dent that he wished to learn all that he could.
He spoke a good deal of my brother Victor, and
knew well of the friendly feelings between his
mother and myself.

" When we took our leave, I had had so much
conversation with the Empress about the former
Emperors that I understood her to say, ' I hope
you will live to see my son Emperor.' I was very
startled and said, ' Oh ! Madam, I hope not,' on
which she said, ' How do you mean, you hope
not ? ' I then explained what I had understood
her to say ; she laughed and said, 'No, what I
said was, I hope that you will make acquaintance
with my eldest son before you leave Berlin,' and
so with profuse apology the contretemps ended
happily.

" It is impossible for me to realise that this man
with whom I had this friendly interview in June
1910 should be the same as the German Emperor
of August 1914.

On June 30th my nephew George and his wife
Alberta came to Hinchingbrooke on their return
from their voyage round the world, and we gave
them a triumphal reception. Their children had
been committed to my charge during their absence.
18

262 AT HOME AND A*BROAD [chap, xiv

" Owing to the terms of the Budget and the
heavy taxes imposed by death and succession
duties, I determined, with the consent of my
brother, to hand over to my nephew and heir,
George Montagu, all estates as far as possible,
and accordingly in December he took possession
of Hinching6rooke and lived there for two months.
I was permitted to reside at the Cottage during
that time, and subsequently took Hinchingbrooke
on an annual lease.

" I venture to hope that since I became a landed
proprietor I had endeavoured to improve in every
way possible the estates which had devolved
upon me, by purchase and sale, in building, plant-
ing, draining, road- making, etc., and it is vexatious
to realise that the more money, time, arid labour
a man spends on improving the conditions of man
and beast on his estates, the more he is fined at
his death, whereas the proprietor who does no-
thing for his estates and squanders his money in
luxury and gambling gets off comparatively scot-
free, and in all probability those living on the
estate suffer proportionally with the owner. The
question is a very large one.

" We did not then foresee the enormous changes
which must be brought about by the War, but
at that time, accepting the resolution carried in
Parliament, I hope I did my best in sacrificing
my personal interest to the advantage of my suc-
cessors and of all residing on my estates."

CHAPTER XV.

ON HEALING

Lord Sandwich had reached this point in his Diary,
or rather in the statement that he had drawn up from
old diaries aijd which was to form the basis of his
Memoirs, when he was seized with the illness which
eventually proved fatal. . It is very much to be re-
gretted that he was not able to carry it on through
the years during which he devoted himself to heal-
"ing the, sick. Luckily, there is enough material
available to give a fairly detailed account of his
ministrations.

From time to time, in the pages of the Diary, we
see that he hints at possessing a healing power. The
most notable example is the account of- his visit to
his butler, George Andrews, when suffering great
pain after an operation.' After this date he went
abroad, but returned soon after to find Andrews at
Hinchingbrooke under the care of a hospital nurse.
He was in a wretched state, bodily and mentally.
The account of his after treatment is given in a little
book that Lord Sandwich published in 1915.*

" Through my cousin, Mrs. Villiers, I heard of a
Mr. Hickson, a so-called Faith. Healer. I went to
London in the hopes of inducing him to see Andrews.
I called with Mrs. Villiers on Mr. Hickson in Talbot
Square. He immediately, on my introduction, said,
' You have the same power that I have.' I was so
astounded that I asked no questions.

" Mr. Hickson shortly afterwards came for a nijght
to Hinchingbrooke. I was present on one occasion

1 See page 253.

' My Experiences in Spiritual Healing. Arthur Humphries, 191^.

263

264 ON HEALING [chap, xv

when he treated Andrews, and afterwards attempted
the same course. Andrews told me that he experi-
enced the same sensations from me as he had from
Mr. Hickson. This was on May nth, 1908. Some
time afterwards I asked Mr. Hickson how he had
known so quickly that the same power had been
given to me as to himself. His answer was : ' I can-
not tell you,;, except that I saw it at once in your
peuionality.'

" I continued' this treatment to Andrews daily for
about four months . His improvement was marvellous ;
he became comparatively cheerful and was able to
walk about alone. At this time I was suffering from
carbuncles, and was advised by my doctor to dis-
continue all treatment of patients for their sake as
well as for my own.

" Since that time it has become evident to me
that I had previously possessed the gift and exer-
cised it unwittingly, and I quote the following as one
instance of many.

" I alluded to the subject in an address I gave in
1912, and, while talking afterwards to some men,
asked one of them, a gardener in my employment,
if he had evy: heard of my gift. He answered me to
the following effect, and I quote his own words :

" ' HmCHINGBROOKE,

" ' February 3rd, 1914.

" ' About two years ago I heard an address Lord
Sandwich gave in Brampton. His Lordship asked
me afterwards if I had ever heard of his powers
of healing. I said "No" ; but I reminded him
of my going to him some years ago, when I told
him that I had been suffering great pain from
sciatica and was unable to do any work.

"'He took me into the Bothy and examined
me and put his hand on my thigh. The pain
left me, and I have never had it since.

"'William J. Lee.'"

Following medical advice, Lord Sandwich now gave

igii] DR. COULTER 265

up treating the sick, and he might never have exer-
cised his gift as he did in his latter years had not a
new and powerful incentive inspired him afresh.

How this new influence came into his life is best
told in the words of his niece, Mrs. Scott-Gatty, who
lived with him and who was his devoted and in-
separable companion : *

Statement by Mrs. Scott-Gatty

"When my uncle first found out he had the gift of
healing, his family and friends really thought that he
had gone off his head. I think we all thought he
was labouring under a delusion, until, as case after
case came before our eyes, we were forced to believe
in the efficacy of his power.

"Speaking entirely from my own personal point of
view, I honestly acknowledge I was absolutely scep-
tical of my uncle's gift until a few special cases
came under my individual notice, and I can only
say that any man or woman who had the close touch
and personal experience that I had could only believe
as I do.

" I remember a man who was doing business with
my uncle was entirely sceptical. My uncle took
him to one of his cases, which happened to be a
child ; he came away with tears in his eyes, and he
told me afterwards that he had no alternative but
to believe in his power. A clergyman once came to
me and said, * Now, Mrs. Scott-Gatty, you are a
sensible woman ; you don't believe in this healing
power of your uncle's, do you ? ' I said, ' Indeed
I do ; it is utterly impossible for me to do otherwise."
We had a long talk, and I believe I had some success
in convincing him that there might be something
in it !

"Early in the year 191 1 an American lady, Mrs.
Herbine, was introduced into the family and came
to stay at Hinchingbrooke. She has a remarkable
psychic gift, and has communicated with a spirit
calling himself Dr. Coulter ever since she was a child.
This spirit always told her that she would come to

266 ON HEALING [chap, xv

England, as he wished to get into touch with many
English people, amongst whom were my uncle and
certain members of our family.

" Almost from the first interview with Dr. Coulter,
my uncle became convinced of the truth of his words
and the importance of the message he had to bring.
One of the first requests made to him by Dr. Coulter
vvas that he ^ould continue his healing, assuring him
that it would have no bad results to his own health.
This my uncle readily consented to do, and from
that time to within four days of his death it was
seldom he had less than six or seven cases on his
hands. The cases were often sent to him by Dr.
Coulter, who would say, ' I am sending a man or
a woman to be healed by you,' describing the malady
and how the patient was to be treated. Within two
or three days my uncle would meet the person or
receive a letter asking for treatment, the patient
being easily recognised as the one described by Dr.
Coulter. He was told to remember, in his healing,
the spiritual, mental, and material condition of his
patients ; and although he was sometimes only
called on to relieve the suffering of a dying person,
he was also told that by his prayers he was able to
help them spiritually.

"The first case I can testify to was that of Mrs.
Woodbine, the chauffeur's wife. After seven years
of married life, this woman was expecting her first
baby in the following January. In November she
came to me in great distress ; a lump was rapidly
growing in her breast, and the doctor said that it was
a tumour and she must have an operation at once,
and of course lose the child. I took her to London
to see a specialist, and he gave the same opinion.
Then Dr. Coulter told my uncle that he was to cure
her. I remember he was most concerned, and felt
the responsibility of the woman's life lay in nis hands.

" From the first treatment the lump diminished in
size ; the baby was born and is now a healthy boy
of six years old, and the mother has never had a
return of the trouble.

" In my uncle's book. My Experiences in ^pirifuftl

I9I2] AN INTERESTING CASE 267

Healing, an account of this case is given in detail,
together with a letter from the patient, which I will
insert here :

" ' Motor Cottage,

" ' hinchingbrooke, huntingdon,

" 'May 1st, 1912.

" 'Last September I had a lump in my breast,
which was growing very fast. I went to a doctor
in Huntingdon, and he told me it was a tumour
and it would have to be taken out. I was very
much upset about it, and some ladies sent me to
London to see a doctor there ; he also told me
that it was a tumour and that it would have to
come out at once. I expected a child in January,
and I knew that an operation would mean the
loss of my baby.

"'The Earl of Sandwich came and offered to
treat me, and in a very short time I discovered
that my tumour had ceased growing, which was a
great comfort to me.

" ' My baby was born in due time and is quite
strong and well. Lord Sandwich treated me again
when I had recovered from my confinement. I
had faith and I knew I should get quite well. My
tumour is now very rrluch smaller and I feel no-
thing of it.

'"Rosa Mary Woodbine.'

I "August xsth, 1913.

" 'I am now happy to say that my tumour has
entirely disappeared and I feel no effects of it
whatever. My child and I are now quite well.

'"R. M. Woodbine.'

" The next case in which I had a personal interest
was that of my own boy, aged ten ; he was ill with
a bronchial chill, temperature 104°, and delirious. I
went to my uncle and asked him to treat him, which
he did. The boy fell into a calm sleep, and an hour

268 ON HEALING [chap, xv

later I noticed drops of perspiration on his forehead.
I took his temperature in about four or five hours ;
it was normal. When the doctor came the next
morning, he said that I must expect the temperature
to rise again, but it never rose, and in two dajrs he
was up and out and perfectly well.

" In India Mrs. Herbine was suddenly stricken with
.fever ; shewaS delirious, and I had to hold her down
to keep her in bed. My uncle was away for the day,
so I telegraphed for the nearest English doctor, who
lived a hundred miles away, and I sent for a native
woman doctor, who seemed quite unable to deal
with the case. I had* a most anxious four hours till
my uncle came in. After the first treatment she
became quite calm and her temperature went down
to ioo°. I then wired to stop the English doctor,
and the next day she was normal and well.

"My uncle also cured me of a feverish attack in
Calcutta. He put one hand on my forehead and
held one of my hands with his other hand. I remem-
ber, although he said he never pressed the hand on
my head, it felt very heavy. I also felt a strong
electric current down my arm to the hand he was
holding. He prayed out loud — prayers chiefly out
of the Prayer Book which he had learned by heart.
I was quite cured after two treatments.

" I must also mention that my uncle was successful
on several occasions in giving absent treatment by
prayer. One case was that of a soldier dangerously
ill of fever in Egypt ; his wife wrote and begged him
to give her husband absent treatment. Before she
received his reply, sajing that he had done as she
wished, she had a telegram from the hospital to say
,that the. patient was much better. Again, for two
years he constantly treated a man in Edinburgh by
prayer alone ; he never saw him and only knew him
as ' William. ' I can testify also to the innumerable
letters he received asking for treatment ; they came
from all parts of the world, and very many had to be
refused by means of a prin-^ed form, regretting his
inability to attend to so many patients. He used
sometimes to attend patients in London, and several

igi3] A HOLY MAN OR AN IMPOSTOR 269

cases were brought to Hinchingbrooke, where they
were given the best rooms with every comfort. One
lady who came in an ambulance was so much better
after a few weeks' stay that she walked away when
she left the house. He confined his cases to Hunting-
donshire as far as he could, so that he could continue
to fulfil his home duties.

" His chief object in speaking in public of his gift
was to help the men who had the same power and
who were forced to gain their livelihood by it, having
given up their former professions."

Here we have the straightforward testimony of an
eye-witness as to certain cases that came under her
own observation. Whatever view we may hold as
to the efficacy of spiritual healing, we must pause
here to note what effect all this work had on the life
of the healer.

In the first place, it is evident that as the cases
became more numerous they occupied much of his
time, and he must have exercised great self-denial in
order to treat them, " Your lordship treated me
almost daily for a period of two years," writes one
poor patient, who speaks of a " marvellous " improve-
ment in his health. In the case of one of his foot-
men, he treated him twice daily. And these are
only two out of hundreds of cases. In the second
place, we must realise that Lord Sandwich gained
no worldly advantage from his ministrations. Far
from this, he became an object of pity and even con-
tempt and lost some old friends, who began to look
on him as one suffering from delusions. " I have
been looked on as a ' holy man ' and as an impostor,
as a saint and as a rogue ; I aspire to neither descrip-
tion. I only hope that I have done my duty without
fear and without reproach." These words show the
spirit in which he approached what was to be the
great work of his life.

The most casual glance over the pages of the Diary
will show the writer to be possessed of a very nor-
mal, sane personality. His eccentricities were purely
superficial ; they came chiefly from a bubbling-over

270 ON HEALING [chap, xv

sense of humour and an absolute disregard for the
opinion of the man in the street. In the manage-
ment of his estate, in the public work to which he
gave up so much of his time, in his philanthropic work,
and in the amount of business he managed to get
into a crowded day, he showed himself to be abso-
lutely clear in intellect, cool and unbiased in judg-
ment, eminently practical. To the world in general
he appeared as a man devoted to society ; to his
associates in county work as one capable of con-
tinuous effort ; to the poor and destitute as a generous
and sympathetic friend. All sections of society
wete evidently amazed when he, quite coolly and
in the most matter-of-fact manner, announced,
" I can cure the sick."

The most obvious as well as the easiest way to
treat a man with such pretensions was that of ridi-
cule. Ridicule, luckily, had no effect at all on the
healer, who was delightfully impervious to such
attacks.

To those who knew Lord Sandwich well, there
were many underlying influences at work, which
now showed themselves very clearly. One was his
sense of duty ; duty had been a guiding star to him
all his life : once duty pointed the way, he was not
the man to turn back. Thfe other, which was indeed
the strongest influence of any, was that of his re-
ligious faith. Certain circumstances in his life had
contributed to this strong sense of religion. As
quite a young man he had been much influenced by
the writings of Dean Farrar, which had had the effect
of putting to flight those doubts and difficulties
which assail most people when they begin to think
things out for themselves. To his friendship with
Colonel Philip Smith, Lord Sandwich himself attri-
buted his sympathy for the poor. These two young
guardsmen worked together in the East End before
"slumming" became a fashion; and the habit ac-
quired so early was never put aside.

These mental qualities — a real, absolute, childlike
faith in religious matters, and a real, honest, sym-
pathetic interest in the sick and the suffering — made

igio] UNWAVERING FAITH 271

Lord Sandwich an ideal healer when he came, late
in life, into his spiritual kingdom. It is after con-
sidering this aspect of his character that we can best
understand his attitude towards his gift and towards
the communications that he received from the other
side. When he first heard of Dr. Coulter and his
messages, he was sceptical ; when Mr. Hickson first
told him that he possessed a healing power, he was
overcome with astonishment. When the latter was
proved to him by the cures he was enabled to per-
form, he naturally began to believe in himself. After
the first interview with Dr. Coulter he became con-
vinced that the communications he received emanated
from a Master whose directions he might follow with
confidence and security. Having once accepted
these facts', as earlier in life he had accepted the great
truths of religion, his faith never wavered. The
communications became more and more frequent,
until they formed an integral part of his daily life.

The treatment that he gave to his patients consisted
in the laying on of hands and of prayer. He used
to pray out loud, Mrs. Scott-Gatty has told us,
using very frequently prayers from the Book of
Common Prayer that he had learned to repeat by
heart. The treatment might last for months, it
might give almost immediate relief ; or it might
prove a failure. In any case it implied close atten-
tion to the subject on the part of the healer, an
absorption in prayer, a rendering of the human body
into a channel through which the Divine power
might pass. It is curious that a man like Lord
Sandwich, who threw himself into any interest with
such enthusiasm and perseverance, should not have
been swept off his feet by this new life. On one hand,
he had his communications with the Unseen ; on
the other, the procession of poor fellow-creatures
waiting for his healing powers. Far from becoming
a recluse or a crank of any sort, he enjoyed life with
all his old zest. He still loved travel and enjoyed
entertaining his friends at Hinchingbrooke ; he had
the old J oie de vivre that had always characterised
him, and he entered intp the occupations and accepted

272 ON HEALING [chap, xv

the responsibilities of his position with the old en-
thusiasm. It is quite evident that he must have
sysfematically put aside his own pleasures to attend
to his patients, and that the path he had now to tread
was no easy one ; but he accepted it with a high
courage, always egged on to do more work by the
Master. When we reflect that he was over seventy-
one years old*when he began to cure systematically,
we can but wonder at the vitality and energy he
displayed.

Here is one of the earliest messages that he re-
ceived from Dr. Coulter ' :

April nth, 191 1.

I am often with you, wishing you well. Your
patients are doing very well. Continue with
them with all patience and true faith. Take
heart and never despair at temporary failures.
Let love abound in you and round you at all times.
Remember, too, the hardest things to perform
procure the greatest reward, and, with a big
nature, much is expected of you. I am only a
humble guide come to help you from the Divine
Master. I place myself a tool in His hands, and
it is because I have gained a little more light
and knowledge on this side that I have a clearer
vision and can show you many things.

• On another occasion he said :

I would always spur you on to fresh endeavours.
The further you get along the path, the harder
does it become to tread, but look upward and
outward to the great ideal^ — the love of the Master.
Clothe yourself in love. The world will bring you
its troubles ; clothe yourself in love and you will
not feel the hurts of the world. Be proud of the
great truth you stand for. ...

' These messages were all taken by Mrs. Scott- (iatty, who wrote
them down as they were received.

I9I2] LOVE AND DUTY, 273

The keynote of Dr. Coulter's gospel is always
Love ; the goal he sets before his followers is always
work for humanity, work to the limit of mortal
powers and on beyond. " Healing and all such gifts
are treasures of God's love," he says, " given into
your care to use to the best of your ability. You
realise in a great measure the wonder of your gift.
You realise that, when patients are sent to you,
your first duty in life is to them." Dr. Coulter
makes no pretence of being infallible — ^he learns by
failure as men on this plane do ; he urges on his
pupil to greater effort and greater achievement,
bidding him never to be discouraged by apparent
want of success. " Love is all that lives through
all eternity," he says in one of the messages ; "all
else drops off as moulting feathers drop off a bird's
back. If you don't lose love, nothing is lost, and I
can see your large heart growing in love day by
day^ so I don't trouble about the hard way I treat
you." •

As time went on Lord Sandwich's healing powers
became widely known, and then arose a new duty,
that of testifying to the world his faith in the gift
he possessed. This he was quite willing to do, as he
had from the first spoken of it openly and with no
uncertain voice.

" To do this work best," Dr. Coulter says, " you
must stand fearless before the world, and that is
where I commend you."

There are many references in the messages sent
him from time to time by Dr. Coulter regarding
these public speeches on healing, discussing before-
hand the line he should take, commenting afterwards
on the accomplished fact.

On April 17th, 1912, the Bishop of Ely wrote to
Lord Sandwich asking him if he would. give the re-
sult of his experiences to a committee of clergymen
and laymen who were holding meetings to investi-
gate the truth concerning Spiritual Healing. Lord
Sandwich replied in the affirmative, and some corre-
spondence ensued between the Dean of Westminster,
Bishop Ryle, who was chairman of the committee.

^74 ON HEALING [chap, xv

and himself. In reply to a letter from the Dean,
Lord Sandwich clearly stated his conditions. " I
am not prepared," he writes, " to answer any cate-
gorical questions before the committee. I consented
to attend to give an account of my experiences and
of my faith, which admit of no argument or discus-
sion. Human understanding is imperfect, and the
members of t^e committee will not be able to under-
stand, nor can I explain what I do not understand."
The committee, which was composed of distin-
guished members of the clerical and medical profes-
sions, under the chairmanship of the Dean of West-
minster, met on June 28th, 191 2. On June 19th,
191 2, Dr. Coulter says :

Well, I want you to make my speech for me ;
I thought I would give you a short outline to-day.
The other speeches will be technical, and I wish
yours to have&the spiritual element. It is a great
opportunity, and I would like you to speak on the
lines of my teaching and appeal to the hearts of
your audience. Tell them life is just a progres-
sion and a teaching, and it is a question of evolu-
tion — of how far we have progressed.

Concentrate on the healing ; go calmly, quietly,
earnestly to work from the beginning. Your
great faith will make people realise that you are
^speaking the truth. Be very patient. It is the
first step of a great movement. Tell them that
you believe the material age is over and we are
on the brink of enlightenment.

In the Report of a Clerical and Medical Committee
of Inquiry into Spiritual Faith and Mental Healing
Lord Sandwich's evidence is given. He spoke simply
and clearly, stating that the power he used was a
Divine power operating through him, and declining
to analyse it or to differentiate between one method
of Spiritual Healing and another. He said that he
always worked with medical men whenever it was

1913-15] PSYCHO-THERAPY 275

[possible to do so, and he gave some interesting
details concerning his cases. He declined to furnish
the committee with medical evidence as to the result
of his treatments. In the Report of the Commission,
which was issued in 19 14, it is stated that " Faith or
Spiritual Healing, like all treatments by suggestion,
can be expected to be permanently effective only in
cases of what are generally termed ' functional dis-
order.' "

His comment is characteristic : " No finite under-
standing can define or explain the power of the
Infinite."

On November 5th, 1913, a meeting was held in
University College to inaugurate a medico-psycho-
logical clinic for the treatment of certain diseases
by means of psycho-therapy. Lord Sandwich, who
took the chair, had just returned from his tour in
India, during which he had spoken of healing con-
stantly, and had effected the most remarkable cures.
In his opening address he spoke of his power of
alleviating pain, and said that he had treated people
in palaces, ^cottages, and hospitals, a Hindoo monk
in a monastery, a Mohammedan in a mosque, and
an Indian princess who travelled six hundred miles
to consult him.

This speech attracted a great deal of attention and
was widely commented on in the Press.

On February 28th, 191 4, he spoke at the annual
meeting of the Huntingdon Hospital, of which he
was chairman, in these words : "To me, this ridicule
and contempt are a matter of supreme indifference.
What 'is hidden to-day is revealed to-morrow ; in
days to come the truth of this spiritual healing
power will be generally recognised. All great truths
in their inception have been ridiculed, but the truth
has prevailed *and always will prevail."

On November 2Sth, 191 5, Dr. Coulter speaks
about another meeting : " I understand that you are
speaking to a select company, who are all interested
in interesting subjects. I should tell them plainly
that your healing has been assisted by a friend in
spirit, with whom you communicate in a variety of

276 ON HEALING [chap, xv

ways, and that your firm belief is that the other
world is knit together with the earth, all bound up
in close ties of love and affection and unfailing in-
terest. They will understand."

On December 2nd, 1915, he says : " We had a
good meeting. I gave you one or two ideas towards
the end. You must surprise people or you cannot
rouse them fjrom their lethargy. Mentally, all the
time, you must remember that our world is so near
yours that people, without knowing it, receive im-
pressions thence ; it is like a sponge that sops up
water."

In all his utterances, public and private. Lord
Sandwich maintained a dignified attitude. He as-
serted his belief in his healing powers and his in-
difference to the opinion of the ignorant concerning
things they could not comprehend. He never spoke
against medical or surgical treatments ; on the
contrary, he always desired to act in concert with
medical men.

Speaking on this subject in 1914, he said : " The
truth of this power, as taught in the Bible and prac-
tised in all ages and, as I believe, possessed by men
to-day, will, in days to come, be generally recoghised.
The spiritual doctrine of religion and the physical
discoveries of science will become blended in har-
monious combination to the glory of God and for
the benefit of humanity."

In 191 5 he published a short record of his work,
entitled My Experiences in Spiritual Healing. It
was widely and generally sympathetically reviewed
in the Press.

CHAPTER XVI

BEFORE THE WAR

Lord Sandwich had an essentially orderly mind, with
a passion for detail. He made a point of dealing
with his large correspondence day by day, never
leaving a letter unanswered. It is hardly to be won-
dered at that some of these notes were of Spartan
brevity. A very usual reply to a proposed visit was
the following : '

Dear ,

Yes, delighted.

S.

His love of detail showed itself in the lists he
made of everything he possessed and of everything
that he did. He chronicled every guest who came
to the house, every mile he travelled by land, by
water, or by road. On one occasion, after looking
through the list of guests, he discovered that the
total was not far short of a thousand ; he immedi-
ately asked one of his family to invite a week-end
party, the only condition being that not one of the
guests should have visited Hinchingbrooke before.
When the party arrived, he put off the character of
host, and behaved as if he had been one of the in-
vited. He was not only amused, he had the satis-
faction of rounding off his list.

Motoring was one of his favourite amusements ;
he loved to settle himself in his car, prepared for a
long day out, and would constantly remark, " Now
we are off on our wild Career," as it started. On such
occasions be was always prepared to amuse and be
amused. One of his nieces was with him when

19

277

^7^ feiEFORE tHE WAR [chap. xVt

motoring through a Scottish deer forest ; he got out
of the car and crawled up a burn to illustrate the
way it would have to be negotiated out stalking.
As he was clothed in an immense fur motor-coat,
the effect can be imagined. They motored back
from Durham to Hinchingbrooke, a distance of 204
miles, on a Sunday, arriving at six o'clock in the
evening. It was characteristic of the man that he
was in his accustomed seat in church at half-past six.
Lord Sandwich was very much attached to the
church and village of Brampton. He read the lessons
every Sunday, and was wont to ask visitors if they
had noticed the good-looking curate who read them.
He took a great interest in the schools, and was never
too busy to come to the river-side to superintend a
swimming conlipetition or to give prizes to the children.
One of the great interests of his latter years was
connected with St. Edward's Home, which he men-
tions in his Diary. He founded and permanently
endowed this home for boys in 1905. From that
date untU the day of his death in 1916 seventy boys
passed through his hands.

Lord Sandwich was devoted to children, and would
often take much pains to teach them himself. He
was fond of telling a story concerning a small boy
to wiiom he gave a little talk on history. Having
told him about Henry VHI and his domestic arrange-
ments, he asked him, " Who was the mother of
Edward VI?" "Why, I suppose he had six
mothers. Uncle Hinch 1 " was the reply.

His system with regard to the boys in St. Edward's
Home has sometimes been criticised. The boys were
allowed to wander about the gardens and house
just as if they had been members of his own family. .
They were never allowed to be called " waifs " ;
they were just " his boys." His motto was, " I
was a boy myself." With all this indulgence, he
was very particular about their education ; he in-
sisted, on good manners, and he encouraged the boys
to write letters to him in order to learn how to express
themselves. He went to the Home every Sunday
after church to give them a Bible lesson ; his duty .

1015] METHODS WITH THE BOYS 279

was never shirked, however bad the weather might
be, or however many guests might be at Hinching-
brooke. The boys learned to look on him as a real
' friend and would confide all their little troubles to
him.

When the boys first came, they used to suffer from
chilblains. Lord Sandwich insisted on all boots and
stockings being taken off in the house, the result
being that the chilblains disappeared. When he
went down to spend an hour with them, he would
walk about barefoot in order to do as they did. One
of his favourite methods of education was to make
any misdemeanour appear ridiculous. When the
boys began to play cricket, it would sometimes
happen that one of them lost his temper when he
was bowled out and would roll about on the grass
and cry. Lord Sandwich went down one day to
play cricket at the Home, allowed himself to be
speedily bowled out, flung down his bat and rolled
on the grass, kicking and screaming. The lesson was
far more effective than a sermon or losing his temper
would have been-

The following letter which he wrote after one of
the boys had Kicked a football through a window
in the Home illustrates amusingly his method. It
was directed to :

The Football,
c/o Mrs. Warrington, St. Edward's Home,

HiNCHINGBROOKE, HUNTINGDON,

April i8th, 1915.

Dear Football,

I am sorry to hear that you have broken
one of the windows at the Home. Glass is very
expensive now, owing to the war, so you ought to
be unusually careful. However, you have always
been very good about my property, and, consider-
ing the number of boys who are always playing
with you, I think you have been very good and
careful.

I hear George Wheeler had been kicking you
just before it happened. The only thing will be

a8o BEFORE THE WAR [chap, xvl

for you, in the future, to avoid George Wheeler
and only allow the younger boys to play with you.
I hope you were not cut and hurt yourself, and
I hope Mrs. Warrington will not punish you this
time.

Yours affectionately,

S.

*

True to his usual practice, Lord Sandwich kept
a minute record of each boy. After their school days
were over a career was provided for them, and they
often spent the holidays at Hinchingbrooke. One of
these youths, George Mann, had a pretty tenor voice ;
he was taken to London and the best advice procured
as to his training. Mann enlisted in the Hunts
Cyclist Corps when it was inaugurated.

There is now a Roll of Honour at the Home con-
taining the names of twenty-six ' boys who have
served in the Army or Navy during the war ; one of
these lost his life in the service of his country.

The following letter will show the spirit of the
boys and the love they bear to the " Old Home " :

Rifleman E. Budden, 3790,
Inshellon, Coral Roap, East Sbbem, S.W.

My Lord,

As you will see, I am still in England, but
I expect to go to France next month about the
loth. We came out of canvas last Thursday,
and I think it is about time they took us out. It
was very cold and we only had three blankets.
I finished my course of ball-firing at Rainham
Musketry Camp last week. I am enclosing you a
list of my scores. I am pleased to say I am a
first-class shot, with ii8 points. I just failed
getting my marksmanship of twelve points. I
lost those on the 300 yards, fifteen rounds in one
minute — what they call the " mad minute."

Our company have the best results of any that
have been down here yet, and our CO. con-

1914] LETTERS FROM THE "HOME" BOYS 281

gratulated us on our excellent shooting. I am in
billets at the above address, and it is much better
than being under canvas. ,

I expect there are quite a lot of Home boys
out at the Front by now, and I often wonder if
I shall ever see any of them. I think, my Lord,
as a result of all the old Home boys joining up,
it goes to show that all your great kindness has
not been wasted, although we were such a great
trouble to you when the Home was first opened.
I expect you remember hbw I used to suUc and
go without my dinner on a Sunday. I shall be
very pleased, my Lord, to hear from you when
you have the time,

I remain, my Lord,

Yours respectfully,

Eric Budden.

G. Daisley, A.B.,
H.M.S. " Queen Elizabeth,"
Mess 30.

My Lord,

I again have the pleasure of writing a few
lines to you after such a long interval. I have
heard from Mrs. Warrington and George Wheeler
several times, so that Douglas Malcolm and
myself get most of the news from Huntingdon.
The next time that I get leave I must endeavour
to visit Huntingdon, as it is three years since I
last saw the dear '' Old Home." I am certain
that I benefited greatly by the instructions I had
at St. Edward's Home, and it has helped con-
siderably during my career in the Navy, especially
in the good education which I received there.

I must now close, thanking you for all you have
done.

I remain, my Lord,

Your humble servant,

George Daisley, A.B,

282 BEFORE THE WAR [chap, xvi

It is satisfactory to learn that the Home is still
being carried on and the boys being educated on
the lines laid down by Lord Sandwich. There is
probably no spot in all Huntingdon where his niemory
is kept greener than in St. Edward's Home.

The year 191 2 is one memorable in the annals of
Huntingdon as having been that in which the great
historic pageant was produced at Hinchingbrooke.
This event was brought about by a direct suggestion
from Dr. Coulter, who thought that it would bring
together all classes of the community and that it
would generally promote good feeling.

The pageant, which was produced in perfect
weather on July 6th, 191 2, was organised and re-
hearsed in two months — an arduous undertaking
which proved extremely successful from every point
of view.

The history of Hinchingbrooke provided ample
material for the five episodes, which were reproduced
on what was practically the ground on which they
had first been enacted. The stage consisted of a
wide expanse of grassland known as the Bowling
Green ; behind it, as a background, was the red
brick wall skirting the garden, over which could be
seen the mullioned windows and castellated roofs of
Hinchingbrooke — that " long, low, irregular build-
ing " erected by Sir Henry Cromwell after the ex-
pulsion of the Benedictine nuns. To the right stood
the ancient Norman gateway, with its quaint life-sized
statues of shaggy " wild men " guarding the entrance
to the Court, and through its arches could be seen
glimpses of the oldest part of the house, the " lodgings "
of the expelled nuns.

To and fro through this ancient gateway passed
processions on horseback and on foot. Generation
succeeded generation as one episode succeeded an-
other ; the charter presented to Huntingdon in the
reign of King John was followed by long processions
of black-robed nuns, to be succeeded in the next
episode by Queen Elizabeth riding upon her white
palfrey to pay a visit to " The Golden Knight," Sir

1912] VISIT TO INDIA 283

Henry Cromwell. After this event came King
James I, hunting all the way from Scotland to Lon-
don to take possession of the English crown, and he
in his turn was succeeded by the return of the first
Earl of Sandwich after the Restoration.

Lord Sandwich was his own stage manager, and
he spoke the prologue. During the rehearsals he,
together with his niece, Mrs. Scott-Gatty, super-
intended every detail — no light task when it was a
matter of six hundred performers.

In the autumn of this year Lord Sandwich started
again on his travels, but this time he was not bent
on pleasure or sightseeing. He had undertaken a
tour in India for the sole purpose of speaking on the
subject of Spiritual Healing and the teaching of Dr.
Coulter. The history of this very interesting exp^di-
tion^is best told in the words of Mrs. Scott-Gatty,
who accompanied him.

" At a request from Dr. Coulter, my uncle, accom-
panied by Mrs. Herbine and myself, went to India
in November, 191 2, to bring certain rajahs and their
people in touch with Dr. Coulter and Spiritual Heal-
ing. I must say, wherever we travelled, it made a
vast impression for good on the Indians that an old
gentleman of seventy-five years should leave his
comfortable home and travel all those miles to bring
them the message of Love and Unity and Healing.
I have no space here to go into details concerning
our journey ; a few incidents will suffice to show the
kind of work we accomplished. We left Marseilles
on November 29th in the ill-fated P. & O. Persia,
and had a successful journey, arriving at Bombay on
December 13th.

" Our first visit was to the Gaekwar of Baroda,
who was immensely interested in Dr. . Coulter. My
uncle treated the Ranee and the Princess of Indore,
who was staying at the palace. He spoke at several
meetings called together for the purpose. The
Gaekwar invited him to discuss theology with the
chief Brahmins of his state, and General Birdwood
called a meeting .of his native officers, at which he

284 BEFORE THE WAR [chap, xvi

spoke on Love and Unity ; Mrs. Herbine also ad-
dressed a few words at this meeting.

" From Baroda we went to Indore, where my uncle
continued hi§ treatments of the Maharajah's sister.
Both the Maharajah and the Princess of Indore had
long talks with Dr. Coulter. The Maharajah asked
my uncle to address two hundred of his subjects.
The meeting was presided over by Dewan, the Prime
Minister, and members of the Brahmin community
spoke. A garden party was given here in our honour,
which gave us an opportunity of holding interesting
conversations with the chief people of the state.

" From Indore we motored over to Mhow to visit
the grave of the friend of my uncle's boyhood, Mr.
Henry Tillardi

" On oiu- way to Gwalior we stayed a few days a&
the guests of the Begum of Bhopal, a most interest-
ing personality. In a conversation with her about
the evils of purdah, which she strictly observed, her
state being a Mohammedan one, she decidedly got
the best of the argument, when she said, ' Well,
but you in England ; look at your suffragettes 1
Purdah is better than having the windows of the
Begum's palace broken by women ! '

" Of course our journey was entirely controlled by
Dr. Coulter, who told us where to go, to whom he
wished to speak, and how long we were to stay at
any given place. I believe that he spoke, during our
stay in India, at great length concerning the coming
war and the turmoil that was threatening Europe.
This made a great impression, and was remembered
by those who heard it when the war actually broke
out.

" Our next visit was to Gwalior, where the same
success attended us. The Maharajah was most
kind and was much interested in our subject. My
uncle treated his brother with great success.

" Our presence was now much discussed in India,
and Indians made long journeys in order to talk to
us. Many of them tried to kiss the hem of Mrs.
Herbine's gown in token of their homage. After
stopping at several of the wonderful sightseeing

1914] VISIT TO INDIA 285

places, we found ourselves at Benares, where we
visited the Rama Krishna Mission Home of Service,
with the swamis or priests. My uncle was asked to
treat a rheumatic patient in their hospital, which he
did several times with marked success. Two of
the priests took us on the sacred river, where we
passed close to the burning ghats, where we could
see black legs and arms falling about. Very ghastly
it was, and I am afraid I rather squirmed, for which
I was reproved by the Indian, who said, ' Death
does not exist ; these are only the shells.' I quite
agreed, but confess that I did not enjoy contem-
plating burning shells.

" At Calcutta we had many interviews with
cultivated Indians, who were much interested in our
mission, and my uncle continued to exercise his heal-
ing powers for the benefit of both Indians and Euro-
peans. The Rajah of Morvi brought his wife, who
was in strict purdah, six hundred miles to be treated
by him whilst we were at Bombay."

After his return from India, Lord Sandwich re-
sumed his ordinary life. In the summer of 1914 he
was persuaded to allow the production of Elizabethan
revels at Hinchingbrooke ; they were very success-
ful. But pageants and revels had had their day ; a
month later the country was plunged into war.

CHAPTER XVII

LAST YEARS

Lord Sandwich regretted keenly that the w^r had
come at a period of his life when he was too old to
serve his country. " Just to think of those men in
the trenches," he would say night after night, " and
, I in this comfortable house."

Being unable to go on active service, he did what
he , could to help recruiting in the country and to
promote efficiency in the home forces. To this end
he worked hard, never sparing himself or recognis-
ing the burden of his increasing years. Without
neglecting his country work or his numerous patients,
he added to these duties those new ones that
arose out of the war. He was instrumental in rais-
ing two more battalions of the Hunts Cyclists, and
went out night after night to address recruiting
meetings, often speaking from a cart or improvised
platform, always emphasising the danger of unpre-
paredness and the greatness of the German menace.
As Honorary Colonel of the Hunts Cyclists, though
not in good health at the time, he motored all along
the coast of Yorkshire from Filey to Spurn Head,
visiting the eight posts of the battalion. At each
post he addressed the men and singled out those
known to him.

He was now chairman of the County Tribunal and
chairman of the Territorial Association. When the
new volunteers came into being, he was appointed
their county commandant. In September 1915
Mrs. Herbine, helped by some generous American
friends, founded the Coulter Hospital in Grosvenor
Square, in a house lent by Sir Walpole Greenwell for
that purpose. Lord Sandwich was the first president
and contributed largely to the funds. This hospital.

386

1915] DR. COULTER ON THE WAR 287

a primary hospital of 100 beds, had Lady Juliet Duff
for commandant and Miss Baxter as matron.

With the exception of cases treated in the Hon.
Mrs. Cavendish's hospital at her house at Sawtry,
Lord Sandwich never gave his services to the hos-
pitals during the war, on account of the opposition of
the medical profession. Some cases were treated by
him at Hinchingbrooke with remarkable success, as
the letters preserved by him testify.

When the Belgian refugees first came to England,
he was one of the first to offer them hospitality. He
was chairman of the Belgian Relief Committee in the
county, and personally visited every family that
settled in Huntingdonshire, going into every detail
concerning their comfort with the thoroughness that
characterised him.

Through all the dark days of the war Lord Sand-
wich was very much cheered and supported by the
communications received from Dr. Coulter. Dr.
Coulter had been very much exercised about the war
as far back as 191 2. In August 19 14 he says :

The carnage will be unprecedented and every
country's resources taxed to the full. ... Go
about and do all you can. It is a golden time to
get near to each and every one, women and men.
People can always get nearer to each other in
sorrow than in joy. Be cheerful ; remember that
God is in you and with you just the same. He
is ever shedding His love abroad in your hearts,
and He too gets nearer to His people in sorrow.
That may be one of the great lessons of the war.
People are crying in their hearts to God who
have not thought of Him for years. Take the
big line in all things, and God bless and comfort
you.

I think that Germany will make a better stand
than you think — at least that is just my opinion.
She has not taken on this war with any other
object than to save herself from herself , and she
won' t even succeed in that. There will eventually

288 LAST YEARS [chap, xvil

be a republic there. This great clashing of arms
must come to clear the world of war and to leave
the countries to reform internally. Germany is
the best organised country, because she has been
preparing the war for years.

Undated.

It is curiaus, the extremes of life. I come
straight from a battlefield with all its horrors
to your peaceful garden ; it seems hardly the
same plane. . . . The fighting men are all
advancing in learning and experience ; none of
that is thrown away. A soul might learn more
in one battle than in many lives. Nothing is
useless. Remember it is evolution, and remember
that God does not look on War and Misery in the
light of men's eyes. You don't think a butterfly
is in a worse position than a caterpillar, rather in
a better one. Well, that is the way God looks
on the souls that come over to our side. He sees
also that the bereaved ones are being harrowed,
but are gaining light and knowledge. Look at
it from that point of view. There is a mental and
spiritual state as well as a physical, and we think
the physical the least important.

Generosity and giving does people more good
than anything else, and war touches the heart-
strings and makes people feel that they rnlist do
something-rrpeople who have never had such a
thought before. So it is still a lovely world. It
is curious, but one day you will say to me,
" Thank God I lived through the big war," be-
cause it will count in the history of the Universe,
not only in that of Earth.

August 2isl, 1914.

Dear Brother,

You are going through a sad and anxious
time. We want you to realise that it is a won-
derful time to be livin^^ — that all thi? terrible

I9i6] HEARING THE END 289

trial will end for the good of humanity, however
hard it is to see it at the time. The earth-life
you are living will be of immense value, being
lived at such a climax in her history. I bring
you sure word that all will be for the best, just as
the sun still shines, although at times so fitfully ;
as it still warms and lights the earth, so also is
the love and spirit of God never lifted from the
hearts of His children, wander they never so far
from the fold. They will, all in good time, come
back to the fold and be held nearer the heart of
God than ever before, because in their wanderings
they will have learned much precious knowledge.
To all people on earth at this moment there
is a time of trial and anxiety ; the whole atmo-
sphere is disturbed, and all this tries the faith,
even of the faithful. Take heart, and when you
cannot understand let your faith stand out as a
pure light and testimony that all is well and
must be well for those who are living at their best
at all times, no matter how anxious and hard
may be their lot. .' . .

Lord Sandwich was now nearing the term of his
sojourn here on earth. He was as versatile and
energetic as ever, but people noticed that his char-
acter had become very much softened during the
past years. His constant communications with Dr.
Coulter, his constant efforts to heal the sick, involv-
ing as they did the habit of perpetual prayer, had
had a great effect on his mentality.

With regard to religion, he was essentially broad-
minded, one of his great objects being to bring
together the various churches in harmony. When a
friend came to stay at Hinchingbrooke after writing
to him to tell him that she had entered the Roman
Church, he invited the Roman Catholic priest, and
the Anglican vicar to luncheon to meet her, introduc-
ing her as "a pervert or a convert, whichever way
you like to look at it."

290 LAST YEARS [chap, xvii

For himself he used to say that he had three great
principles :

(i) Never miss an opportunity of helping another.

(2) The sins of omission are worse than the sins

of commission.

(3) The finite nature of man's brain prevents the

full uniderstanding of the infinite ; there-
fore it is best to leave all abstruse questions
to a future life.

These principles he certainly lived up to as far as
was humanly possible. He helped many struggling
fellow-creatures not only with money but with
actual friendship, enabling them to face life anew.
One of these brothers in distress was a convict in
whom he became interested ; after visiting this man
in prison for some months he became surety for him
and went himself to the prison to fetch him away.
When they arrived at the station he changed the
man's pass for a railway ticket, and sat with him.
smoking cigarettes until the train came that was to
bear him away to a new lease of life.

In the summer of 191 6 Lord Sandwich caught a
chill, which proved fatal after four days' illness. Up
to the end he was busy with his county work, arid
he died in harness, as he had always wished to do.
" This is the end for me," he said quite calmly to the
doctor; "no more tribunals and meetings."

Mrs. Scott-Gatty, who was staying away for a few
days at the time, was summoned home by telegraph.
She had been repeatedly warned by Dr. Coulter that
when the end came it would be very sudden, and she
had little hope of his recovery when she found him
suffering from double pneumonia. He was evidently
fully conscious of the gravity of his condition, but
was perfectly serene and calm. He passed away
peacefully in his sleep on June 26th. By his bed-
side was his Bible, in which a marker pointed to the
last passage that he had read and which he had
underlined in pencil : " In the way of righteousness
is life, and in the pathway thereof there is no death."
So passed away a man who had lived his life to

I9i6] THE FUNERAL AT BlRAMPTON 29I

the fullest extent and who had made a unique
position for himself. His funeral was made an occa-
sion of a public demonstration, as is testified in an
account in one of the local papers, headed " A
County in Mourning." Among the mourners were
the members of his family, the representatives of
H.M. the King and H.M. Queen Alexandra, the Mayor
and Corporation of Huntingdon, the representatives
of all the public bodies on which he had served,
as well as a great concourse of his neighbours, rich
and poor, from far and wide. Some officers of the
Grenadier Guards were among the pall-bearers and
his old regiment supplied a firing party.

The coffin, which was covered by a Union Jack,
was placed on a gun-carriage at Hinchingbrooke in
a shower of rain, but the sun shone brilliantly as the
procession neared Brampton, where he was laid to
rest.

The service was notable because there was not
only the tolling bell and the melancholy music of
the Dead March in Saul, but also the triumphant
strains of " Onward, Christian soldiers " and " When
morning gilds the skies " ; not only did the Grenadiers
fire three volleys at the conclusion of the service
and sound " The Last Post," but the church bells
rang out their chimes as the mourners dispersed.

In the beautiful Parish Church of Brampton a
" Jesse " window has been erected to the memory
of Lord Sandwich by his two sisters. Lady Emily
Dyke and Lady Florence Duncombe, by his niece
Mrs. Scott-Gatty, and by Frank Abbott ; and here,
on July 2 1 St, 191 8, the redecorated chancel was con-
secrated to his memory by the present Earl of Sand-
wich. On this occasion the Vicar of Brampton
preached a sermon which brought back vividly to
many of those present the image of one whose memory
will always linger in the place he loved so well.

THE END

INDEX

"A Lady" (Maria, Marchioness

of Ailesbury), 8i, 179, 183
Abbott, Frank, 249, 252, 254, 291
Acland, Dr., 37, 53
Adalbert, Prince, 59
Adeane, Mr., 194
Adelberg, Count, 59
Agassiz, Dr., 53
Airlie, the Earl of, 144, 145
Airlies, the, 115
Albani, Madame, 120, 124, 129,

180
Albany, H.R.H. the Duke of.

(H.R.H. Prince Leopold)', 186,

192
Albany, H.R.H. the Duchess of,

253
Albert, H.R.H. Prince Consort, 3,

4. 5. 56, 57. 67
Albrecht, Prince, 58
Alexandra, H.M. Queen, 241, 244,

248, 255. 256, 258, 259, 291 {see

Wales, Princess of)
Alexandrine, Princess, 65
Alexis, Grand Duke, 123
Alice, H.R.H. Princess, 59 [see

Hesse, Princess Louise of)
Ames, 93
Andrews, George, 253, 254^ 263,

264
Anglesey, Field-Marshal Henry,

I St Marquis, i, 2, 6, 9
Anglesey, Marchioness of (I^ady

Charlotte Cadogan), i, 6, 7, 8,

10
Anhalt-Dessau, Prince of, 65
Antrobus, 5, 95, 133
Arcot, the Prince of, 160
Armstrong, Sir A., 179
Armstrong, Miss, 231
Arrifa Bey, 31
Arthur, Chester, 207
Arthur, H.R.H. Prince, Duke of

Connaught, loi, 117, 123, 126,

127

20

Ashburnham, General, 17
AsloubegofE, Flag-Captaiu, 128
AthoU, the Duke of. 115, 116
Aylesford, 125

Bagot, Mrs., 257

Bagot, Miss Marjorie, 210, 257

Bakawulpore, the Nawab of, 176

BalUn, Dr., 227

Baring, Edward, 189

Barings, the, 81, 132

Baroda, the Gaekwar of, 283, 884

Baroda, the Ranee of, 283

Battenberg, H.S.H. Prince Louis

of, 189
Bavaria, Duke Charles of, 205
Baxter, Miss, 287
Beaconsfield, the Earl of (Rt.

Hon. Benjamin Disraeli), 147,

149. 15°
Beamish, R. E., 135
Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, 186,

187
Belgians, H.M. the King of the,

61, 66, 96, 97
Belgians, H.M. the Queen of the, 3
Bell, Captain, 244, 257, 258
Beresford, Admiral Lord Charles,

116, 179
Bemsdorf, Count, 64, 96
Bertie, F., 243, 247, 254
Bertie, Lady Feo, 243, 247, 254
Bessborough, the Earl of, ,74
Bessbotough, the Countess of, 74
Bhopal, the Begum of, 284
Bingham, A., 185, 190
Binghams, the, 186
Birdwood, General, 283
Birkbeck, Mr. E., 16, 133
Bismarck, Prince, 82, 121, 122,

149
Blake,| Sir Henry, 238
Blake, Lady, 238
Blondin, 42
Blount, 150

293

294

INDEX

Blundell, Colonel, 164
Blunt, Mr., 33
Bond, Professor, 33
Boscawen, E., 101
Bosio, Angiolina, 13
Boswell, 99
Bowcroft, Colonel, 17
Boyle, Miss Mary, 12, 13, 120
Brabant, H.R.H. Due de, 61, 66
Brabant, H.R.H. Duchesse de, 61,
Brampton, the Vicar of, 291
Brand, His Honour Judge, 159
Brand, Speaker, 147
Brassey, Earl, 204
Breadalbane, Marquis of, 57, 59
Breadalbane, Marchioness of, i
Bright, Bit. Hon, John, 181
Brook, Mr. and Mrs., 135
Bruce, Admiral Sir James, 229
Bruce, Lady, 229 *

Bruce, Major-General the Hon.

R.> 19, 37. 53
Buccleuch, the Duke of, 74, 78,

83
Buccleuch, the Duchess of, 74,

78. 83
Buchanan, President, 48, 49
Buckingham, the Duke of, 159,

160
Buckle, Captain, R.N., 26
Budden, Rifleman E., 280, 281
Bulwer, Sir Henry, 23, 24, 30, 32
Bury, Lady, 74
Byng, Henry, 120

Cadogan, George (afterwards Earl),

69
Cadogan, Lady Adelaide (Lady

Adelaide Paget), 7
Cadogan, Hon. Charlotte, 83, 154,

169
Cadogan, Captain the Hon. Henry,

204
Calthorpe, Lord, 186
Calve, Madame, 245, 257
Cambridge, H.R.H. George Duke

of, 8, 20, 21, 78, 97, 98, loi
Cameron, Mrs., 152
Campden, Viscount, 72
Canning, Eaxl, 17, 179
Canning, George, 179
Canning, Hon. Catherine, 21, 23,

32
Canning, Hon. IVfary, 21
Caracciolo, Signorina Th6r§se, 84
Cardigans, the, 81
Carleton, Dudley, 90

Carrington, Lord, 12, 73
Cass, General, 49
Cassel, Sir Ernest, "249
Cassels, the, 248
Caux, Marquis de, 69
Cavendish, Hon. Mrs., 287
Cerito, Mademoiselle, 13
Ceylon, the Governor of, 153
Chandos-Pole, Lady A., 207
Chandos-Pole, Miss, 207
Charles, Prince, 58, 66
Charles, Princess, 58
Chaumont, M,, 150
Chesterfield, the Earl of, 78
Christian, H.R.H. Prince, 186
Christian, H.R.H, Princess, 186
Clarendon, the Earl of, 62, 66
Clarendon, the Countess of, 63
Clark, Mr. and Mrs., 200
Cleveland, the Duke of, 199
Cleveland, the Duchess of (Lady

Wimam Powlett), 9, 199, 200
Coke, Clement, 205
Coke, Lady Catherine, 239
Colomb, Captain, 182
Colvilles, the, 78
Constant, Benjamin, 224
Cooper, Henry, 251, 252,
Cooper, Lt.-General Sir G., 165
Corry, Hon. Montagu, 90, 149
Corry, Hon. Mrs., 185
Coulter, Dr., 265, 266, 271, 272,

273, 274, 275, 282, 283, 284,

287, 288, 289
Cowell, Sir J., 120
Cowley, ist Earl, i, 12, 66
Cowleys, the, 22, 69, loi
.Craven, Willie (Viscount Uffing-

ton, Grenadier Guards), 83
Crewe, the Earl of, 224
Crichton, David, 98, 116, 118, 239
Cust, Mrs. Charles, 73
Custs, the, 8 1

Daisley, George, A.B., 281

Dalrymple, 116

Daly, Sir H., 164

Dalzell, Hon. Augustus, 83

Dangan, Viscount, 63

D'Arcy Osborne, Lady, 218

Dejazet, Madame, 99

Delanofi, Countess, 72

Delia Rocca, General, 66

Denmark, H.M. the King of, 248

Denmark, H.R.H. the Crown

Prince of, 126
de Ramsey, Lord, 249
de Ramsey, Lady, 249

INDEX

295

Derby, the Earl of, 18
de Resike, M. Jean, 132
de Vay, Baron Nicolas, 221
Devonshire, the Duke of, 224, 247
Devonshire, the Duchess of, 224,

247, 249
Dewan, Prime Minister of Indore,

284
Dhuleep Singh, Maharajah, 73
Dickens, Charles, 13
Dickson, Oscar, 190, 191
Dinon, the Duke of, 72
Disraeli, Rt. Hon. Benjamin, go

(see Beacousfield)
Disraeli, Mrs., 90
D'lstrie, Madame, 71
Dohi, Dr., 231, 233
Donaldson, Lady Albinia, 247
Doria, Prince, 72
Dorrien, Mr. Smith-, 190, 205
Dorrien, Mrs. Smith-, 205
Drummond, Edgar, 150
Drummond-Hay, Sir John, 135,

137. 138, 140
Drummond-Hay, Lady, 135
Drummond-Hay, Miss, 135, 140
Ducie, the Earl of, loi
Dudley, fee Earl of, 63
Duff, Lady JuUet, 287
Duncombe, Admiral and Mrs., 179
Duncombe, Captain Alfred, 147,

257
Duncombe, Lady Florence (Lady

Florence Montagu), 148, 257,

291
du Plat, Colonelj 74
Dupuis, 150
I>yke, Sir WilUam Hart, M.P.,

90. 147, 210, 218, 244, 257
Dyke, Lady Emily (Lady Emily

Montagu), 34, 199, 210, 211,

242, 243, 257, 258, 291
Dyke, Hon. Mary (Hon. Mrs.

Bell), 244, 245
Dyke, Miss Lina [see Scott-Gatty,

Mrs.)
Dyke, Miss Sydney, 257, 258
Dyke, Percjrval, 210, 254

Earle, Colonel, 185

Earle, Lionel, 224

Eburys, the, 14

Eden, Sir Ashley, 168

Eden, Sir W., 221

Eden, I-ady, 221

Edgcumbe, Lt.-Col. the Hon. C,

83, 84, 85
Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of.

78, 82, 121, 124, 125, 179, 190,

199
Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duchess

of, 121, 124, 125, 126, 190
Edward VII, H.M. King (see also

Wales, H.R.H. Prince of), 241,

242, 244, 245, 247, 248, 249,

250, 251, 255, 256, 258, 259,

260
Elcho, Lord, 88
Eldridge, Mr. Jackson, no
Eliot, Capt. the Hon. Charles, 37,

186
EUenborough, Lady,^ in
EUesmere, the Earl of, 80
Ellis, Major-General Sir Arthur,

122, 190 •
Elman, Mischa, 247
Elphinstone, Sir John, 155
Elphinstone, Lady, 155
Ely, the Bishop of, 273
Engleheart, G. D., 37.
Ernest, Prince of Coburg, 34
Esher, Viscount, 207
Esher, Viscountess, 207, 241
Eugenie, H.M. the Empress of the

French, 13, 69, 70, 82, 99
Euston, Marquis of, 203
" Eyebrow," the Sultan's, 142,

143

Falke, Monsieur, 187, 188, 191

Falkes, the, 199

Favart, 102

Favre, Monsieur, 156

Febre, 102

Fedoroweski, Rear-Admiral, M.

A., 127
Ferouk Khan, 28, 29
Fez, the Governor of, 142
Fife, the Duke of, 115, 132
FitzGerald, Captain Gerald, 202
FitzGerald, Mr. Penrose, 104
Flandre, H.R.H. the Comte de,

61, 66
Foley, Lady, 74
Frederick, Prince, 118
Frederick, Princess, 118
Frederick Charles, Prince, 58, 65
Frederick Charles, Princess, 58, 65
F'riend, Mr., 218
Fripp, Sir A., 251

Gambetta, 180
Garibaldi, 80
Garrett, Colonel, 11, 96
Garstin, Sir WilUam, 218
Gatacre, General, 226

296

INDEX

George, H.M; King, 291
Germany, Emperor William I of,

121, 122, 260 {see also Prussia,

King of)
Germany, Empress Augusta of,

121, 122, 260
Germany, Empress Frederick of,

207, 214, 222 (see Prussia,

Crown Princess of)
Germany, Emperor William II. of,

260, 261 •

Germany, Empress of, 260, 261
Germany, Prince Oscar of, 260
Gibbs, Mr., 74
Gladstone, Rt. Hon, W. E., 89,

149
Glyn, Lady Mary, 24
Goddard Madame Arabella, 89
Golz, Count, 82
Gortschakoff, Count, 125
Got, Monsieur, 102
Granville, the Earl of, 89
Graziana, Mile, 13, 124
Greece^ H.M. the King of, 118, 119
Greece, H.M. the Queen of, 118,

119
Grefuhle, Vicomte and Vicom-

tesse de, 190, 191
Grenfell, Lt.-General Lord, 218
Grenfell, Lady, 218, 221
Greville, Mr., 4
Grey, Captain, 37
Greys, the, 81

Grosvenor, Lady Constance, 78
Guinnesses, the Edward, 132
Gwalior, Maharajah of, 284

Haig, Major-General Douglas, 244
Halford, Sir John, 206
Halfords, the, 200
Hall, General Julian, 202
HaU6, Mr. Charles, 89
Hamilton, Marquis of, 73
Hamilton, Lord Claud, 147
Hamilton, R., 88
Hamilton, General F., 57, 59
Hamiltons, the,. 70, 72
Hanover, H.M. King George of, 61
Hanover, H.M. the Queen of, 61
Hardwicke, the Earl of, 74
Hardwicke, the Countess of, 74
Hare, Augustus, 88
Harris, F, R., 252, 253
Harrison, Brigade-Surgeon, 21^,

216
Hartington, the Marquis of {see

Devonshire, Duke of), 79

Hassim Bey, 31

Head, Sir Edmund, 38, 43

Henniker, 73

Herbert, Sydney, 200, 201

Herbine^JV&s., 265, 266, 284, 286

Hesse, Grand Duke of, 189, 190,
191 {see Hesse, Prince Louis of)

Hesse, Prince Louis of, 58, 59, 78

Hesse, H.R.H. Princess Louise of
(Princess Alice of England), 78

Hesse, Princess Margaret of, 207

Hicks Pasha, 191

Hickson, Mr., 263, 264, 271

Higginson, Colonel, 95, 97

Hinchingbrooke, Viscount {see also
Sandwich, 8th Earl of) ; birth
and parentage, i ; visit tp
Windsor, 2 ; meets the Duke of
Wellington, 9; wins the 100
yards race at Eton, 14 ; gazetted
into Grenadier Guards, 15 ;
frienaship with the Prince of
Wales, 16 ; goes to Constanti-
nople on Lord Stratford de
Redclifie's staff, 21-31 ; accom-
panies the Prince of Wales to
America, 37-56 ; takes part in
a mission to the King of Prussia,
57-61 ; attends his coronation,
62-66 ; social work, 67 ; visit*
Paris, 69 ; Nice, 71 ; present
at the marriage of the Prince
of Wales, 73 ; works for th«
poor, 80 ; ascends Vesuvius,
85 ; goes to Rome, 86, 87 ;
Spain, 90-93 ; Egypt, 104 ; to*
Holy Land, 106-112 ; Con-
stantinople, 114; Italy, 116;
Greece, 117-119; is present
at the marriage of the Duke of
Edinburgh, 120-130 ; appointed
Military Secretary at Gibraltar,
134 ; accompanies mission to
Fez, 138-144 ; elected Member
for Huntingdon, 147 ; visits
India, r52-i76 ; experience of
an earthquake at Chios, 182 ;
visits Sandringhapi, 191 ; suc-
ceeds his father, 192

Hobart Pasha, 114, 150

Hofimans, the, 200

Hohenthal, Countess, 65

Holmes, Dr. Wendell, 52, 53

Holzhausen, Baron von, 190

Howard, Miss, 227

Howard de Walden, Lord and
Lady, 61

Huxley, Professor, 10^

INDEX

297

Imperial, H.R.Ht the Prince, 149
Indore, Holkar, Dada Saheb c^,

164, 165
Indore, the Princess ol, 283, 284
Ingestre, Viscountess, 78
Irving, Sir Henry, 198
Italy, H.R.H. the Crown Prince

of, 82
Ito, fee Marquis, 232

James, Lord, ol Hereford, 245
Jekyll, Colonel and Mrs., 224
Jeypore, the Maharajah of, 171

{oachim, 89
oli£Fe, Hon. Hedworth, 12
Jourdain, Mr., 61
Jndic, Madame, 150
Jung, Sir Sala, 162

Karolyi, Count, 66

Karslake, Sir John, M.P., 146

Kato, Marquis, 232

Kato, Marchioness, 232

Kendals, the, 100

Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, 61

Keppel, Captain the Hon. H., 14

Keppels, the Derek, 239

Kerr, Lord Schomberg, 65

Keyser, Mr. C, 185, 186

Keyser, Mrs. C, 185

Keyser, Miss Agnes, 185, 221, 222,
223

Keyser, Miss Fanny, 185, 221, 222,
223

King, Colonel, 97

Kimoto, Baron, 236, 237

Kingscote, Lady Emily, 122, 190

Knollys, Hon. F. (afterwards Vis-
count KnollysJ, 123, I9cf

Knolljrs, Hon. Charlotte, 74, 190

Knox, Colonel, 98

Kozakevisky, Admiral^ 128

Kuroda, M^irquis, 232

Laffan, Colonel, R.E., 135
Lake, Captain, R.A., 135
Lane, Miss Harriet; 48, 49
Lane-Fox, George, 86
Lascelles, Viscount, 89
Lascelles, Lady Maud, 90
Laurence, Colonel, 52
Laurence, Mr. and Mrs., 12
Laurie, Judge, 225
Lazier, Madame, 34, 35
Lee, sir. Sydney, 252
Lee, William, 264
Leeds, Miss Emily, 13
Leggett, Mrs., 260

Leigh, Lord, 202

Leigh, Mrs., 187, 188, 189, 191

Lennox, Henry, 90, 147

Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, 120, 147

Leslie, C, 90

Letzen, Baroness, 5

Leveson-Gowers, the, 90

Lewis, Sir G. Comewall, 73, 207

Liddell, Rev. R., 83

Liddell, Miss, 83

Liddells, the, 81

Liddon, Canon, 96

Lister, VilUers, 63

Loch, Lord, 218

Loch, Lady, 218

Lock, Miss, 186

Loftus, Lord Augustus, 58, 125

Loftus, Lady Augustus, 58

Longay, Comte de, 221

Longdon, Lady, 153

Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth,

53 _

Louis Philippe, King of the French,

10
Louise, H.R.H. Princess, 89
Lowell, 53

Lubbock, Sir John, 16," 207
Lubbock, Miss, 16
Luccbesini, Marchesa, 58
Lumley, Augustus, 69
Lyon, Captain, R.E., 221
Lyons, Lord, 38, 49, 54, 180

Macclesfield, the Countess of, 74
Macdonald, Sir <ilaud, 231, 232,

233
Macdonald, I^dy, 132, 231, 232
MacNab, Sir A., 45
Magdalen College, the Master of,

247
Magenta, Due de, 66
MaSmoud Pasha, 26, 28, 31
Mahon, Viscount, 90
Malcolm, Douglas, 281
Manchester, Duchess of {see also

Devonshire, Duchess of), 65, 68,

79
Mandeville, Viscount and Vis

countess, 12
Mann, George, 280
Mapleson, !&., 132
Marchisio, the sisters, 65
Mario, 80
Marlborough, ^uke and Duchess

of, 81
Marochetti, Baron, 21, 25, 26, 28,

30
Martand, Sukharan, 164

INDEX

Mason, Captain, 22

Meade, Sir R., 74, 162

Melba, Madame, 223, 224, 245

Methuen, Paul (Lord Methuen),

98
Meyerbeer, 65
Meynell-Ingram, Mrs., J79
Mildmays, the, 132
Milne, Admiral, 54
Mitchell,- Miss, 222
Moberley, Colonel, 93
MoUer, Dr. Ferdinand, 8
Montagliari, Marquis and Mar-

'quise, 207
Montagu, Anne Lady, 13
Montagu, George (afterwards
George, gth Earl of Sandwich),
218, 220, 247, 257, 261, 262
Montagu, Mrs. George (afterwards
Countess of^ Sandwich), 218,
220, 247, 257, 261
Montagu, Colonel the Hon. Oliver,
61, 62, 78, 79, 80, 122, 147, '184,
185, 199, 210, 211, 212, 257
Montagu, Hon. Sydney, 73
Montagu, Admiral the Hon Vic-
tor, 8, 10, II, 12, 17, 27, 72, 74,
78, 80, 83, 88, 95, 108, 117, 118,
119, 133, 183, 185, 199, 257,
258, 261
Montagu, Lady Agneta, 95, 104,

105 ,117, 118, 119, 133, 257
Montagu, Lady Caroline, 69
Montagu, Miss Mary, 78, 217, 260
Moore, Miss Mary, 251
Moore, Mr., 106
Moreland, 135
Morgan, Governor, 52
Morocco, the Sultan of, 138, 141,

' 142. 143

Morocco, the Grand Vizier of, 140
Morvi, the Rajah and Ranee of,

285
Motley, John Lothrop, 96
Mount Edgcumbes, the, 83, 88
Mnlgrave, the Earl of, 38
Munster, Count, 70, 225 .,
Munsters, the Alexander, 224
-Muvillier, M., 252

Naples, the ex-Queen of, 205
Napier, Admiral Sir Charles, 11
Napoleon, Prince Louis, 10
Napoleon III, Emperor, 13, 69,

70, 82, 99, 102
Newcastle, the Duke of, 37, 55
Newports, the, 186
Newton, George, 83

Norman-Neruda, Madame, 89
Norton, 53

Oldenburg, General Prince, 123
Oldenburg, the Duchess of, 126
Olivier, General, 226
Oppenheimejs, the, 207
Orloff, Prince, 127

Packfenham, G., 98

Paget, Albert, 257

Paget, General Lord Alfred, 82, 99,

229, 257,
Paget, Lady Alfred, 82, 83
Paget, Rt. Hon. Sir Arthur, 241
Paget, Lord Augustus, 88
Pagets, the Arthur, 255
Paget, Admiral Lord Clarence, 11
Paget, Cecil, 187
Paget, the Hon. Evelyn, 187, 214,

215
Paget, the Hon. George, 136
Paget, the Hon. Matilda, 3, 4, 5
Paget, Minnie, 200, 201
Palmerston, Viscount and Vis

countess, 74
Papillon, Lt.-Colonel, 202, 203,

257
Parma, the Duke of, 72
Pasqualini, Captain, 151
Patey, Madame, 180
Patti, Mme. Adelina, 39, 50, 69,

120, 123, 124
Paulet, General Lord Frederick, 57
Peel, Lady, 72
Peel, Lady Emily, 181
Pennyfather, Mr., 43
Perpoucher, Countess, 60, 207
Perry, Dr., 226

Persia, H.M. the Shah of, 120
Peterborough, the Bishop of, 221
Piatti, Signer, 89
Porter, Dr. Bruce, 251
Praed, Herbert, 96, 104
Proby, Lord and Lady, 68, 74
Prussia, H.M. the King of, 57, 58,

59, 60, 62, 63, 64, 65, ,66, 72,
82

Prussia, H.M. the Queen of, 57,

60, 63, 64, 65, 66

Prussia, Crown Prince of, 57, 58,
59, 60, 65, loi, 121, 122 ,

Prussia, H.R.H. Crown Princess
of (see also Germany, Empress
Frederick of), 57, 58, 60, 61, 64,
65, 72, 96, 121, 122

Prussia, Prince Henry of, 121, 183

Prussia, Prince William of, 58, 121

INDEX

299

Puckler, Graf, 64
Punjab, the Lieutenant-Governor
of the, 174

Radzivill, Prince Antoine, 60

Raube, 60

Redern, Count, 58, 60, 61, 66

Rennell Rodds, the, 218

Revelstoke, Lord, 129

Reuss, Prince, 74

Richmonds, the, 79

Ridgeway, Sir West, 225

Ridgeway, Lady, 225, 226

Rikatoschaff, Captain, R.N., 127

Ristori, Madame, 75

Rogers, Sir John and Lady, 254,

255
Rokebys, the, 70, 72, 78
Roon, Marschail von, 58
Roosevelt, Theodore, 261
Ross, Mr., 172, 173
Rothschild, Baron Adolphus, 72 .
Roux, General, 226
Roxburghe, the Duke of, 239
Roxburghe, the Duchess of, 147
Royal, H.R.H. Princess, 16, 18

{see Prussia, Crown Princess of)
Russell, Lord and Lady Odo, 122
Russia, the Tsar of, 82, 123, 124,

125, 126, 127, 129
Russia, the Tsaritza of, 125
Russia, the Tsarevna of, 126
Russia, Grand Duke Serge of,

123
Russia, Grand. Duchess Serge of,

186
Russia, Grand Duke Vladimir of,

123
Rutherford, Miss, 240

Sagan, Princesse de, 200
St. Albans, the Duke of, 73
St. Clair, Lady Harriet, 70
St. Germans, the Earl of, 37
St. Priest, Comte de, 190, 191
San Arpino, Duke^of, 83
San Arpino, Duchess of, 83
Salisbury, the Earl of, 149
Sandwicji, Countess of (Lady

Blanche Egerton), 80, 214
Sandwich, Countess of (Lady

Mary Paget), i, 2, 7, 8, 14, 22,

2K 34
Sandwich, Dowager Countess 01

(Lady Louisa Corry), i, 2, 10,

12, 14
Sandwich, John, 6th Earl of, i
Sandwich, John William, 7th Earl

of, I, 4. 5. 17. 34, 35', 36, 6i,
79. 80, 133, 147, 178
Sandwich, Edward, 8th Earl of
(see also Viscount Hinching-
brooke), leaves the army, 193 ;
political opinions, 194 ; county
work, 195 ; character, 196-7 ;
visits Cannes, 201 ; the Em-
press Frederick, 207 ; Egypt,
218; makes a hospital at Hinch-
ingbrooke during the Boer War,
222; visitsCeylon, 225 ; Japan,
227 ; King Edward, 241, 242 ;
endows a boy's home, 245 ; the
King visits Hinchingbrooke,

248, 249 ; motor tour abroad,

249, 250 ; visits Egypt, 254 ;
celebrates his seventieth birth-
day, 257 ; death of King Ed-
ward, 258, 259 ; his ■ healing
power, 263-271; public speedies,
274, 275 ; pageant at Hinching-
brooke, 282, 283 ; visits India,
283-285 ; war work, 286 ; re-
ligious views, 289 ; last illness
and death, 290 ; funeral, 291

Sandwich, George, 9th Earl of,
291

Sardinia, H.M. the King of, 13

Saunomija, Baron, 232, 233

Saunomija, Baroness, 232

Saxe-Meiningen, Princess Char-
lotte of, 189

Saxe-Weimar, Grand Duke and
Duchess of, 64

Saxe-Weimar, Prince Edward of,
97, 207

Saxe-Weimar, Princess Edward
of, 207

Schattock, Professor, 53

Schomberg-Lippe, Princess Vic-
toria of, 207

Schumann, Madame, 89

Schweitzer, G. P., 257

Scott, General, 52

Scott-Gatty, Edward, 245

Scott-Gatty , Mrs. (Miss LinaDyke)
211, 253, 257, 265, 269, 271,
272, 283-285, 290, 291

Scriba, Dr., 231

Seckendorf, Count, 214, 222

Sedgwick, Count, 214, 222

Sedgwick, Miss Amy, 16

Seidlewitz, Countess, 58

Seymour, Admiral Sir Michael,

37, 238
Seymour, Wilfrid, 89
Skelmersdale, Lord, 81

300

INDEX

Slatin Pasha, 254

Smalley, Mr., 207

Smith, Barrys, the, 218

Smith, General Philip, 67, 82, 85,

98, loi, 104, 133, 134, 146, 148,
151, 183, 188, 214, 215, 216, 270

Smith, Mr. Robert, 270
Specht, Dr., 228, 231
Spencer, Earl, 206
Spencers, the, 78, 206
Stanley, Dean, 124, 179
Stanley, I^dy Augusta, 125
Stanley, Lord, 17
Stephenson, Colonel, 89
Stepney, C, 63

Stewart, Adnliral Sir Houston, 89
'Stockmar, Baron, 58
Stoffel, Count, 102
Stonor, MonsignoT, 87
StraM, Captain von, 190
Strangford, Viscount, 29
Stratford de Redcliffe, Lord, 21,
26, 29. 30, 31, 32, 33, 70, 74,

99, 134. 179

Stratford de Redcliffe, Lady, 21,

23. 24. 32. 70. 74. 99
Strathnaim, Xxnrd, 82
Street, Mr., 42

Sl3reletzki, Count, 99 ^

Sturt, Napier, 95
Suffield, 1-ady, 122, 129
Sullivan, Sir Arthur, 180
Sutherland, the Duke afld Duchess

of. 74
Swettenham, Sir A., 228
Swinton, Mr. James, 2, 25, 26
Sydney, Viscount (afterwards

Earl), 10, 14, 120, 122, 125, 127,

150, 151

Sydney, Viscountess (afterwards
Countess), 7, 10, 14, 35, 150,

151, 178, 181, 198, 212, 213
Sykes, C, 190

Sykes, Lady, 179

Tagliafico, 13

Taglioni, Mile Marie, 58

Tamberli, 13

Teck, H.R.H. Princess Mary,

Duchess of, 35, 36, 186
Teck, H.R.H. the Duke of, 186
Teck, H.R.H. Prince Alexander

of, 239
Teesdale, Major, 37, 74, 116, 122
Templetown, Viscount, 73
Thistlethwaite, Mrs., 105
Thomhill, Mr., Mrs. and Miss, 12

Thorold, Dick, 54

Tillard, Henry, ti, 13, 14, 15, i6,

17, 18, 34, 284
Titiens, Madame, 100, 132
Trebelli, Madame, 65, 100, 180
Trevor, General, 169
Turkey, the Sultan of, 25, 26, 27^
• 28, 31

Tweed, R., R.A., 258
Twiss, Sir Travers, 99
Tyrone, Earl of, 78

Van de Weyer, Madame, 96
Van de Weyers, the, 96
Vansittart, Captain, 37
Viceroy of India, the, 169
Victoria, H.M. Queen, i, 2, 3, 4,

5, 6, 9, 13, 14, 15, 56, 61, 73,

89. 95. 96, 97. 120. i47> 217,

224, 226
Victoria, H.R.H. Princess Royal,

Duchess of Fife, 241
Villiers, Lady Constance, 63, 70,

150
Villiers, Lady Emily, 63, 70, 150
VilKers, Mrs., 263
Vincent, Colonel, 226
Vivian, Lord, 244
Vivian, Hon, Crespigny, 57, 190,

191
Vivian, Hon. Dorothy, 244, 245
Vyner, F., 117, 119

Wager, Madame de, 61
Waldegrave, Hon. George, 21
Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, 9,
15. 16. 37, 38. 39, 40, 41. 42, 43,
44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 51. 54. 53.
56, 68, 72, 73, 74, 75, 78, 79, 81,
95, 103, 115, 116, 123, 125, 126,
134. 147. 15°. 184, 189, 191, 207,

211, 212, 214

Wales, H.R.H. the Princess of,

68, 73. 74. 75. 81, 82, 95, 103,

115, 116, 123, 125, ii6, 150,

184, 189, 211, 212
Wales; H.R.H. Prince Albert

Victor of, 190, 212
Wales, H.R.H. Prince Edward of,

242
Wales, H.R.H. Prince George of,

199
Wales, H.R.H. Princess Louise

of, 116
Walewski, Count, lo, 12, 69-71
Walewska, Countess, 69, 71
Warburton, G., 215
Warren, Hon. John, 21, 26, 29

INDEX

301

Warrender, C&ptain, 229
Warrington, Mrs., 280, 281
Welch, Captain, 256, 257
Wellesley, Hon. Frederick, loi
Wellesley, Hop. Mrs., 95
Wellington, the Duke of, 6, 9, 10
Westminster, the Dean of, 273,

274
Wheeler, George, 279, 280, 281
White, Mr. John, 218
Williams, Sir Fenwick, of Kars,

38, 40, 188, 133, 134, 144, 145,

146, 148
Wilson, Captain, 148.
Wiltons, the, 8i
Wingate, General Sir Reginald,

253
Wingate, Lady, 255
Wittgenstein, Comtesse, 117
Wittgenstein, Princess Otto of,

204

Wood, C, 73

Wood, General Sir Evelyn, 202

Wood, Major, 51

Woodbine, W., 249

Woodbine, Mrs., 266, 267

Wyman, Dr., 53

Wynne Finch, Charles, 90

Wyse, Sir Thomas," 33

Yelvertons, the, 109

York, H7R.H. the Duke of, 212,

238, 239, 240
York, H.R.H. the Duchess of

238, 239,-240
Yorke, Hon. Alexander, iii
Yorke, Alfred, 215, 228, 257
Yorke, Archdeacon, 83
Yorke. Eliot, 78
Yorke. Miss, 83
Young. Sir C, 57

PrinM if Haull, Vfttsan & Vinty(, Li., Lonion and AyUslmry, Sn^ni.

*