Historic spots in Newport

CORNELL

UNIVERSITY

LIBRARY

HISTORIC SPOTS
IN NEWPORT

Cornell University
Library

:%

The original of tiiis book is in
tine Cornell University Library.

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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028840219

HISTORIC SPOTS

IN NEWPORT

By
EDITH MAY TILLEY

Librarian Newport Historical Society

NEWPORT, R. I.
THE MERCURY PUBLISHING COMPANY

1914

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Historic Spots in Newport

Although it is not given to all to see visions and dream
dreams, yet to the true lover of Newport and its history the daily
walk about town, far from being prosaic and uninteresting, is rich
and glowing with scenes and people of the past. At every step
one is confronted by houses and localities concerning which anec-
dotes might be told, and these few are noted here in the hope that
in the knowledge of their significance the wonderful inner vision
may be secured to many.

There is nothing now to remind one of the beginnings of our
town, the first settlement of which was made in 1639, in the
vicinity of Marlborough and Farewell Streets, on both sides of a
stream which ran down through Tanner Street, now West Broad-
way.

Governor William Coddington's house stood in Marlborough
Street, nearly opposite Duke, and the old water mill for grinding
corn was near the present site of the jail.

On the corner of Farewell Street is still standing the Nichols
House, which about 1739 became famous as the " White Horse
Tavern."

The first English house here was that of Governor Nicholas
Easton, on the easterly side of Farewell Street. This was burned
by Indians April 4, 1641.

Near this spot was a very early Friends' Meeting House,
some of the materials of which, it is said, were used in building a
part of the present one.

Almost opposite is the Coddington Burial Ground, where lie
several governors of the colony : Nicholas Easton, William Cod-
dington, William Coddington, Jr., Henry Bull, John Easton and
John Wanton.

Washington Square

This was paved by the proceeds from a lottery in 1762. The
street leading up on the north was early called Queen's Street,
that on the south was Ann Street. On this square was the old
town school house, under which was the printing office of the
Widow Franklin, and in which a Latin school was established as
early as 1710. At the head of this square stands the building
formerly the State House, now used for a court house. This was
ordered built in 1738, on the site of the old Colony House, half of
which was removed to Broad Street, the other half to Prison
Street, now Colonial.

At the foot of the Square stands the old market house, de-
signed by Peter Harrison, on the land granted to the town by the
Long Wharf Trustees, on condition that the lower part be used
for a market, "and for no other use whatsoever imless it should
be found convenient to appropriate some part of it for a watch-
house," which was afterward done. At one time a theatre was
held here. Later this building was used entirely for city offices,
and is now rented out for business purposes.

The statue of Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, in the little
park, was dedicated September 10, 1885, and stands nearly oppo-
site the old Seixas mansion, which Perry purchased shortly before
his death. This house was from 1795 to 1820 the place of
business of the Bank of Rhode Island.

The house on the corner of Clarke Street was the residence
of William Ellery, Jr., son of one of the signers of the Declara-
tion of Independence.

The house at the head of the Square, known as the residence
of the late Hon. William P. Sheffield, stands on the site of the
house once occupied by the father and grandfather of Commodore
Stephen Decatur. This house was removed to Charles Street.

On the corner of Charles Street, where now stands Odd
Fellows' Hall, "James Brooks, from England," in 1759, adver-
tised a tavern, " at the sign of the Right Honorable William Pitt,
Esquire, head (the house lately improved by Dr. Ellis), to enter-
tain gentlemen travelers."

Washington Square has been the scene of all sorts of meetings,
celebrations and festivities. From the balcony of the State House,

in 1761, were proclaimed the death of George Hand the accession
of George III. There, in 1776, and again fifty years later, Major
John Handy publicly read the Declaration of Independence ; and
for many years the election of the Governor of Rhode Island was
declared from this balcony.

In 1769, the boats of the British sloop "Liberty" were
dragged up the Square to the other end of the town and there
burned.

The State House itself was used as a hospital during the
siege of Newport, and for various kinds of meetings, even as early
as 1695, when the Assembly ordered that it be used only for
" judicial and military affairs, and uot for any ecclesiastical pur-
poses oir uses of that nature."

In the old Senate Chamber is the well known Stuart portrait
of General Washington.

TOURO STiiEET

This was early called Griffin Street, and in many ancient
documents, "the street leading to the windmill." Here stands
the Jewish Synagogue, the oldest of its kind in America, dedi-
cated December 2, 1763. Rev. Isaac Touro, from whose family
this street received its present name, was the first rabbi who offi-
ciated there. His residence occupied the site of the present
Trinity Rectory. His sons Abraham and Judah were well known
philanthropists, and bequeathed large sums for the improvement
and support of the synagogue, Touro Park and the Redwood
Library.

The beautiful interior of the Synagogue is well worth seeing,
with its twelve Corinthian columns, the candelabra, and the sacred
ark, containing the ancient scrolls of the law. In 1780 the Gen-
eral Assembly met in this building.

Next to the synagogue are the rooms of the Newport Histor-
ical Society, open daily (except Sundays) from ten until four,
Saturdays until one. The Society is preserving the Seventh Day
Baptist meeting house, built in 1729, from whose pulpit in 1738,
Rev. John Callender preached the anniversary sermon, which was
published as " An Historical Discourse on the Civil and Religious
Affairs of the Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations
in New England in America from the First Settlement, 1638, to

the End of the first Centur)'." Beside a good reference library
and collection of valuable manuscripts, the Society has on exhi-
bition many antiques and relics pertaining to general and local
history.

The house next to the Historical Society was probably built
after 1730 by Benjamin Barney and is said to have been occupied
at one time by the artist, Robert Feke.

At the head of Touro Street, corner of Kay, is the beautiful
Jewish Cemetery, whose deed dates back to 1677. Here are
buried many of the ancient Hebrews who were once an important
part of the community ; men of the highest integrity and schol-
arship.

Beixevue Avenue

From the Jews' Cemetery to Mill Street, this was once called
Jews' Street. Here stands the building of the Redwood Library,
whose collection of books was started in 1747 by a generous gift
from Abraham Redwood. In 1750 the building was erected on
land given by Henry Collins, from a design by Peter Harrison.

Touro Park, extending on Bellevue Avenue, from Mill to
Pelham Streets, was opened in 1854 by the generosity of Judah
Touro and other philanthropic citizens. In the park is the famous
old stone mill, described in the will of Governor Benedict Arnold,
1677, as "my stone built windmill."

Here also is the statue to Commodore Matthew Calbraith
Perry, brother of Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, through whom
the ports of Japan were opened to America. Matthew Perry was
born in the house corner of Second and Walnut Streets, which is
marked by a tablet placed by the Newport Historical Society.

The statue of Rev. William EHery Channing was erected in
1881, facing the Channing Memorial Church, on Pelham Street,
and seeming to bless the people of his faith. Channing was born
in the house still standing on the corner of Mary and School
Streets, now the Children's Home. He married his cousin, Ruth
Gibbs, whose family resided in the mansion on Mill Street facing
the opposite side of the park, now the residence of Hon. Fred-
erick P. Garrettson. At the close of the Revolution, this house
was occupied by General Nathaniel Greene, who there entertained.
Baron Steuben and the Marquis de Lafayette.

On the corner of Bellevue Avenue and Pelhain Street stood
the Atlantic House, a popular hotel which was, from 1861 to 1865,
used as the United States Naval Academy. The graduates during
these four years have become the last Rear Admirals of the Navy,
many being prominent in the Spanish War.

Nearly opposite, in the Griswold House, Admiral Farragut
was once entertained.

Pelham Street

This street was paved by the proceeeds from a lottery in
1772. Just below Touro Park is the late residence of Governor
Charles Van Zandt, formerly owned by Augustus Littlefield, in
the rear of which are the neglected graves of Governor Benedict
Arnold and his family.

Charles Handy owned land between Pelham and Bowery
Streets, being a part of the estate of Abraham Redwood. It is
said that Handy laid out several streets through this land , naming
them for his four sons, John, Levin, William and Thomas.

On the corner of Spring Street is the United Congregational
Church, dedicated in 1857, the second building on this site. The
first was a wooden building, dedicated m 1834, and removed when
the present stone church was built. This church society was
formed in 1833, by the union of the First and Second Congrega-
tional Churches. Rev. Nathaniel Clap was preaching here as
early as 1695, in a little building on Tanner Street, now West
Broadway, near Tilden Avenue. Afterward the First Society
erected the church in Mill Street, later the home of the Unitarian
Church, and now an auction room. The second Church met in
the building on Clarke Street, now used for the Second Baptist
Church. Its most noted pastor was Rev. Ezra Stiles, who was
ordained in Newport, in 1755. In 1778, he became President of
Yale College, which office he held until his death, May 12, 1795.
Rev. Samuel Hopkins, a distinguished divine, in 1755 became
pastor of the First Congregational Church, remaining in Newport
until his death in 1803. Dr. Hopkins published many discourses,
and was probably the first American minister to propound a scheme
for African colonization. A noted pastor of the United Congre-
gational Church was Rev. Henry J. Van Dyke, who was here
'from 1879 to 1882, when he was called to the Brick Church, New
York.

On one of the corners of Pelham and Spring Streets stood the
old BHtish Guard House, and the Bannister house, on the north-
east corner, was occupied by General Prescott, in command of the
British Army during its occupation of Newport. John Bannister,
who owned this house, married Herraione Pelbani, daughter of
Edward, a grandson of Governor Benedict Arnold, from whom the
Pelham Street property, including the Old Stone Mill, was in-
herited. In 1756, a lookout was built upon the windmill, for the
use of which during the war the town paid ten pepper-corns a year.

On the southwest corner was Betsey Richards' candy shop,
dear to the hearts of the children.

Spring and a Few Cross Streets

Spring Street was at one time called Back Street, many of
the grounds of the early mansions extending back to this street.

In the house on the southwest corner of Mill Street, Jarties
Fenniniore Cooper wrote his " Red Rover," during a brief visit
here.

Trinity Church, on thfe corner of Church Street, or New
Church Lane, was built in 1726. The first rector who preached
in this edifice was Rev. James Honey man, for whom Church
Street was formerly called Honeyman's I,ane ; his residence being
at the foot, where Seabury's store now stands. Frank Street, on
the other side of the Church, was called Old Church Lane.
Among the famous divines who preached at Trinity Church was
Dean Berkeley, who came to Newport in 1728. Among its ben-
efactors were Nathaniel Kay , who lived next to the Jewish Ceme-
tery, and from whom Kay Street derives its name, and Jahleel
Brenton, of the family whose town estate extended from Spring
Street to the Harbor, and from Mary Street (then New Lane) to
Honeyman's property.

Church Street was opened after the erection of Trinity Church.
Not far from Thames, on the site of the house now numbered 32,
was the academy kept by John Fraser, a Scotchman, which for
many years ranked high as a classical school.

Farther up, where Kay Chapel now stands, was the old Mo-
ravian Church, called the Society of the United Brethren. Its
buiial ground was in the garden, north of the church, and accord-'
ing to the records, contained but five graves. Later, these re-

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From the old records of the town of Newport, taken away at the time of the British
Evacuation, and almost destroyed in a wreck at Hell Gate, October, 1779. Now being
restored under the direction of the Newport Historical Society.

10

mains were interred in the common burial ground on Farewell
Street.

Opposite this church is the Dr. David Olyphant house, once
occupied by Samuel Vernon, later by Rev. Thatcher Thayer,
pastor of the United Congregational Church for whom is named
the school building next door, long used for the Rogers High
School .

Still farther up, on the corner of Bellevue Avenue, where
the Reading Room now stands, was a boarding house kept by
William Potter, who had been the proprietor of the Bellevue
Hotel on Catherine Street, at which many distinguished guests
were entertained. The Bellevue house was once a Brinley man-
sion, and in 1826, before it was fitted for a boarding house, was
leased by Charles Windsor, an Englishman, who, with his wife,
opened a school for instruction in lace making. In the autumn
of 1826, a lace dress, made at this school, received a premium at
the State Fair in Pawtucket and was soon afterward purchased
by President Adams, during his visit to Newport.

Returning to Spring Street, near the corner of Mary Street,
was " Polly Tilley's Shop," also dear to the children, which
Gov. Van Zandt's poem has made familiar to later generations.
Just around the corner on Mary Street, was the Chesebrough
house, later called the Champlin House, being the residence of
Christopher Grant Champlin. This fine old mansion, built
probably after 1720, was torn down to make room for the modern
and commodious Young Men's Christian Association building,
recently erected through the generosity of Mr. Alfred G. Vander-

bilt.

Opposite, on the corner of Clarke Street, is the house best
known as the headquarters of the Comte de Rochambeau, in com-
mand of the French Army, 1780. A former owner was Metcalf
Bowler, a merchant of note, and, in 1774, Speaker of the Rhode
Island Assembly. William Vernon, the next owner of the house,
was, in 1777, a member of the Naval Board, having in charge the
American Navy, the fitting out of privateers, and the sale of their
captures, etc. He was a representative of an old Newport family
and a well known collector of works of art. His house was evi-
dently one of the finest private residences, since it was selected as
the headquarters of the highest officer of the French forces.

11

In March, 1781, General Washington visited Rochambeau at
this house, and there was planned that decisive campaign ending
with the surrender at Yorktown. This historic house has recently
been purchased and is preserved and used as a home for the Charity
Organization Society of Newport.

On the east side of Clarke Street, nearly opposite the church,
is still standing the parsonage of the Second Congregational
Church, occupied by Dr. Stiles from 1756 to 1776.

On the west side is the Armory of the Newport Artillery
Company, chartered February i, 1741. Under the command of
Col. Benjamin Fry, this company took charge of Fort Green, July
19, 1814, and there performed camp duty until February 23, 1815,
when the fort was turned over to the Government. In 1842,
during the Dorr Rebellion, the company twice responded to the
orders to proceed to Providence, and in 1861, when President
Lincoln called for volunteers, fifty-two of the sixty-five men in
the company enlisted.

The John Clarke Memorial Church, in Spring Street, is of
the Baptist denomination, named for its founder and first pastor,
John Clarke, who is also known as a founder of Newport, and
distinguished by his success in obtaining the charter of 1663 for
Rhode Island. John Clarke is buried in the little burial place on
Tanner Street, which was bequeathed by him to the Baptist
Church. The first Baptist meeting house in Newport was on
Tanner Street. This was sold in 1738, and a new edifice erected
on the Spring Street site, which since 1841 has been occupied by
the present building.

Nearby are the walls of the old Governor Bull house, which
for years was the oldest house standing in Rhode Island. This
was destroyed by fire December 29, 1912.

Polly Lawton, the Quaker Belle, lived on the corner of Touro
Street, now a fruit store.

Thames Street

This street extended from the head of the town, at first as far
as Cannon Street, and later to its present termination, which was
known as Mile End. At the head of this street, where it joins
Farewell, is the Liberty Tree Lot. In April, 1766, William Read

12

deeded this lot, with the "Large Button Wood Tree" thereon,
to certain trustees. This tree was cut down by the British during
the Revolution, and a second tree was planted to replace it. A
third tree was planted in 1876, which stood until about 1896,
when the present tree was planted, a fern leafed beech, like the
famous one in front of the Redwood Library. At that time the
viewport Historical Society was made the trustee of the lot and
tree, the original deed of which is in possession of the Society.

At the foot of Washington Square stood a large house which
was occupied, in succession, by several physicians. Dr. 'i'homas
Rodman, who came from Barbadoes in 1680 ; his son. Dr.
Thomas, Jr.; Dr. William Hunter, who in 1756 delivered the
first lectures in this country on surgery and anatomy ; Dr. John
Haliburton, a Tory, who left Newport when suspected of secretly
communicating with the enemy ; Dr. Isaac Senter, Surgeon-
General of the Army in Rhode Island, who with Dr. Jonathan
Easton, Jr., and Dr. Benjamin Mason, took charge of the inocu-
n lation for smallpox at Coaster's Harbor Island, in 1792. Dr.
Benjamin Case and Dr. Daniel Watson were the last physicians to
reside in that house.

In the house opposite was the office of the Newport ' 'Gazette, ' '
printed on the ' ' Mercury ' ' press by the British during their oc-
cupation of the town. After the evacuation, the publication of
the " Mercury " was resumed by Henry Barber, in the same house.
This newspaper was first printed in 1758 by James Franklin,
nephew of Dr. Benjamin Franklin.

The present Covell's block was the place of business of
Samuel Vernon, a prominent silversmith.

At the house of Jacob Richardson on Long Wharf, Talleyrand
spent several weeks, in the spring of 1794.

Not far below were the houses of the Governors Wanton,
William's, on the west side of Thames Street (now the Boston
Store), and John's, opposite, later occupied by James Horswell.

Christopher Champlin lived, in the house built by Samuel
Brenton, now a clothing store. His daughter " Peggy " was the
famous belle of Revolutionary days, who, with General Washing-
ton, opened the ball given in 1781 by the French officers, in Mrs.
Cowley's Assembly Room on Church Street. She afterward

18

married Dr. Benjamin Mason, and lived in the house on the east
side of Thames Street, formerly owned by Philip Robinson, now
occupied by a market. Here Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry
was married to Dr. Mason's daughter, Elizabeth Champlin, and
before this house some years later, the funeral procession of the
hero halted, to wait for the family to take their places.

Next to the Mason house was an old building occupied in
1801 by John Nicolai, an Italian, whose daughter. Miss Eliza,
taught school in one of the stores on the front. After the death
of Nicolai, the house was bought by Henry Potter, who kept a
grocery store in the Dean house, nearly opposite, formerly owned
by Capt. Charles Handy. Both Handy and Silas Dean were en-
terprisiiig'merchants.

Opposite the Mason house (now a bakery) was the post office,
and residence of the postmaster, Benjamin B. Mumford.

On the corner of Pelham Street was Townsend's Coffee
House. Here were entertained lawyers, doctors, merchants and
army and navy officers, and, during election week, the members
of the General Assembly. Every evening, before the cheerful
fireplace, the very best men of the town assembled to discuss
matters of public interest.

Just around the corner on Pelham Street was the home of
David Melville, whose experiments with illuminating gas resulted
in lighting not only his house but the whole street, before even
London had begun to use it. In 1813, exhibitions of the lighting
were given at his house, for which each person paid twenty-five
cents admission. Later he succeeded in lighting Beaver Tail
Light in the same manner, and left an interesting account in his
own handwriting of his experiments.

Another coffee house, the Black Horse Inn, was situated near
the present Bowen's Wharf.

Francis Malbone lived in lower Thames Street. He made
several voyages to the Isle of France, after which he was elected
a member of Congress and died at his post in Washington.

The hood from the doorway of the Taylor or Ayrault House,
which stood at the corner of Thames and Ann Streets, is now
being preserved by the Newport Historical Society.

Before the Revolution there were seventy wharves in New-
port, extending to the harbor, from Thomas Robinson's on the
Point to Overing's, which was farthest south.

14

At this time, too, there were sixteen manufactories of sperm
oil and candles, five rope-walks, four sugar refineries, (one of
which was Overing's) and twenty-two distilleries. Many business
places were situated on the wharves and nearby, on Thames
Street. In September, 1769, James Rogers had his tailor's busi-
ness at a shop in the house of Mr. Caleb Gardner, in Thames
Street, opposite to Dr. Hunter's, at the sign of the Freemason's
Arms. October 29, 1770, Nathaniel Bird had a store on Thames
Street, a little below Ferry Wharf, at the sign of the Golden
Head. August 15, 1774, Samuel Goldthwaite advertised his re-
moval from the Parade, to the house of Joshua Almy, in Thames
Street, adjoining John Bours, at the Golden Eagle, and opposite
New Lane. John and William Tweedy were the largest importers
of drugs in the American Colonies. Aaron Lopez, whose wharf
was nearly opposite the foot of Church Street, had thirty vessels...
Jonathan Nichols, whose wharf was near his house, on the
" Point," had at least sixteen. It is said that often a craft would
be forced to go the whole length of the range of wharves before
finding an empty berth at which to discharge its cargo ; and on
one day — a famous record day — eighteen West Indiamen arrived"
in Newport Harbor.

The Harbor of Newport has always been regarded as pecu-
liarly adapted for naval affairs, and, as long ago as 1764, a Britislr
navy yard was contemplated here. British engineers in 1773-4
made a minute survey of the bay and islands, with a view to es-
tablishing an extensive naval station, with ship yards, dry docks,,
hospitals and fortifications, but the completion of the work was
prevented by the commencement of the Revolution. In a letter
reporting favorably upon this project, the bay is spoken of as " an
excellent man-of-war harbor, affording good anchorage, sheltered
in every ' direction and capacious enough for the whole of His
Majesty's navy, were it increased four-fold."

In 1799, when the subject of a dockyard on the southern New
England coast was being discussed in Congress, Newport citizens
drew up a memorial setting forth the advantages of this port as a
naval station, and in 1800 representatives of the Government vis-r
ited the proposed site of the dockyard. At this time vessels of
the navy were frequently sent here for stores, and Newport mer-.

15

cliants recommended that a store should be built on Goat Island,
where Fort Wolcott was erected. On this island, where the
Naval Torpedo Station is now located , a fort was erected as early
as 1702. This had been recommended in a report made in 1700
by the Lords of Trade to his Britannic Majesty. It was stated in
this report that " Rhode Island, being the most important place
on the southwest side of Cape Cod, is so situated as to be a very
convenient harbor for shipping and security to that part of the
country in case it were put in a state of defense." This early fort
was named Fort Anne ; later it was called Fort George, in 1785
Fort Washington and afterward Fort Wolcott.

In 1776, a fort, which was called the North Batt'ery, was
built on the site of the later Fort Greene, at the end of Washing-
ton Street, now Battery Park. To make room for this, the house
of Daniel Austin was removed.

Washington Street

This street, once called Water Street, is situated on the
"Point," one of the most delightful parts of Newport. At
one time the street was crowded with stores and lined with
wharves, and ornamented with fine mansions. Here on the west
side lived Henry Collins, a well known patron of fine arts. His
estate afterwards belonged to that prince of entertainers, George
Rome, and was confiscated during the Revolution, when Rome
became a Loyalist and refugee.

The Hunter house nearby was designed by Peter Harrison
for Deputy Governor Jonathan Nichols. After his death, 1754,
the house became the property of Col. Joseph Wanton, Jr., who
went away during the war, being a Loyalist, and Admiral de
Ternay, of the French Fleet, was quartered in the house. While
living there, he died, quite suddenly, and was buried in Trinity
Churchyard. After Wanton's death the estate became the
property of William Hunter. In the rear of this house was one of
the best wharves, with many stores, all of which were built by
Gov. Nichols.

The old Thomas Robinson house is still standing at the foot
of Poplar Street, and has never been out of some branch of the
Robinson family.

16

The South wick house is interesting. Here died Solomon
Southwick, the patriotic publisher of the "Mercury," who, in
1769, adopted the motto, " Undaunted by tyrants, we'll die or be
free." At onetime there was a tradition that some of Captain
Kidd's money was buried in the cellar ; anotlier tradition says
that Kidd once lived in a house on Franklin Street.

Another interesting house is on the west side, where lived
Captain Thomas Brownell, who went with Commodore Perry to
Lake Erie.

Other streets on the "Point" are interesting. The "un-
fortunate Hannah Robinson," who married her music teacher,
Peter Simons, lived on the North side of Bridge Street, near
Thames.

A Few Historic Spots on the Outskirts

Near Tonomy Hill was the Godfrey Malbone mansion, which
in 1766 was destroyed by fire. His town house was in Thames
Street, the present Cottrell Block.

During the Revolution a line of intrenchments, some of
which were begun by the Americans, but strengthened by the
British, ran from Coddington's Cove to Bliss Hill, at Green End,
which latter is in Middletown, just beyond the Newport line.
The Bliss Hill and Coddington's Point forts are still in a remarka-
ble state of preservation, and remains of those on Honeyman's
and Tonomy Hills may still be seen. At the foot of the present
Narragansett Avenue, at the Cliffs, a strong redoubt was con-
structed, which has now entirely disappeared. Another line of
defense crossed Kay Street, not far from Rhode Island and
Cranston Avenues.

Many more historic spots might be noted, and countless tales
related. These have seemed to me worth while, and in these
hurried twentieth century days, when ancient landmarks are fast
disappearing, an occasional reminder may be needed, "Lest we
forget. "

Cornell University Ubrary
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