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DMC LIBRARY
Drawn
Thread Work
St
Series
ALBERi R. fVIAiv^
LIBRARY
TjRNELL UNIVFP'
EDITIONS TH. de DILLMONT
Societe a responsabilite limitee
MULHOUSE (France)
All rights reserved
538
openwork insertion with knotted clusters set contrariwise,
overcast bars and festoons in darning stitch.
Dra^vn Thread Work
The empty spaces produced in linen b}' grouping together
with stitches several threads, isolated by the drawing out of
warp or woof threads or both, constitutes what is known as
" drawn thread work ".
By grouping together and covering the isolated threads
with different stitches the most varied combinations and the
richest patterns can be produced, suitable either as sole
decoration or as a finish to cross stitch or other embroidery.
The simplest kind of drawn work is known as "hem-stitching"
which consists in drawing out a few parallel threads of the
material at the head of a hem and fastening up the upper and
last cross-thread to the folded hem above it, so as to prevent
its ravelling downwards ; thus leaving small open spaces
between each of the clusters of threads. The borders, inser-
tions and grounds, the Italian cut stitch, the different kinds
of American, Danish and Norwegian openwork (•*) and, finally,
the Reticella cut work of Italian and Greek origin, are all
more complicated and elaborate forms of drawn or openwork ;
the latter being a transition from openwork on linen to lace work.
The patterns of modern work of this kind are very similar
to certain lace patterns, they resemble the American ones and
contain, like these, stitches and figures often employed in the
Teneriffe lace.
(*) See, at the end of this album, the Ust of the pubUcations of the D-M-C library,
containing a great variety of patterns for every kind of work.
4 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
Viewed as regards the execution there are two kinds of
openwork on linen : the one is produced by drawing out a
certain number of either the warp or the woof threads, this is
known as drawn work (the ItaHan punto tirato) ; the other
requires the removal of both warp and woof threads and is
known as cut work (the Italian punto tagliato).
Materials. — Openwork on linen is done on woven stuffs,
the warp and woof threads of which should as far as possible
be of equal size so that the spaces left by the removal of
the threads may be regular in form. For table, bed and toilet
linen, all the different kinds of white, cream or ecru linens,
used for embroidery, are suitable : for decorative articles,
coloured linen known as English or Scotch linens are preferable.
The different kinds of tammj'- cloth serve for chair-backs,
curtains and blinds ; gauze and cambric, for dress trimmings.
For the openwork, when the threads of the stuff have been
removed, a strong, twisted thread should always be used, one or
other of the following articles, bearing the D-M-C trade mark;
D-M-C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) (*), D-M-C Alsatian twist
(Retors d'Alsace), D-M-C Alsatian cordonnet (Cordonnet
d'Alsace), D-M-C Cotton lace thread (Fil a dentelles), D-M-C
Crochet cotton 6 cord (Cordonnet 6 fils), D-M-C Special crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special), D-M-C Crochet cotton, bell mark
(Cordonnet a la cloche), D-M-C Alsatia, D-M-C Knotting cotton
(Fil a pointer), D-M-C Alsa, D-M-C Flax lace thread (Din pour
dentelles) or D-M-C Flax thread for knitting and crochet
(Din pour tricoter et crocheter). The working thread should,
generally speaking, be of the same size as the threads of the stuff
but for the raised parts which are to stand out in special relief a
coarser thread should be used. For all the fillings and decorative
figures in darning stitch, a loose pliable thread should be selected,
such as D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special), com-
posed of several strands, of which one or more can be used as
required, or else D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle), D-M-C Floss
flax or flourishing thread (Din floche) and D-M-C Rayon for
embroider}^ (Raj'onne a broder) all with a slight twist.
Openwork on linen is generally done in one colour only,
white on white, or in the same shade as the stuff ; but we should
recommend white thread for cream and ecru stuffs and a
(*) The French names, in brackets, are those stamped on the labels of the
DM-C articles.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 2. Another single hem-stitch.
slightly tinted thread for the coloured lines. Openwork on
linen in several colours is not often met with.
To facilitate the reproduction of our patterns, directions as
regards the course of the work and the materials to be used
are given, either beneath the engravings in the text or, in the
case of the plates, at the back of each plate.
Insertions (punto tirato).
Insertions are made, as we have
already said, by drawing out
either the horizontal or the ver-
tical threads. The openwork
hems form the starting point
of this kind of work.
These hems often take the
place of the ordinary hem when
a richer effect is desired. Wider
insertions are used as a trimming
for bed and table-linen instead
of embroidery or lace insertion.
Rows of hem-stitch wor-
ked with the machine. —
Rows of hem-stitch can be more
quickly worked by machine
than by hand.
Narrow rows can be worked
without being mounted on a
frame. In this case it is ad-
visable to stretch the shuttle
thread very tightly.
For the shuttle thread use
D-M-C Machine thread (Fil pour
machine) No. 150, for the top thread D-M-C Alsatian twist
(Retors d'Alsace), D-M-C Alsatian cordonnet (Cordonnet
d'Alsace) and D-M-C Alsa for the bands of hem-stitch.
Single hem-stitch (figs, i and 2). — Draw out two threads
beneath the foldover, then tack down the hem above the iso-
lated threads. P'asten in the working thread on the left, then
slip the needle from right to left under three isolated threads,
draw it out and pass it, upwards from below, under two threads
of the fold of the hem. (See fig. i.)
For the hem fig. 2, prepare it like the preceding one, and
Fig. 4. Serpentine hem-stitch.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Four-sided stitcli.
Fig. 6. Crossed back-stitch
Right side.
work as before from left to right, except that after having slipped
j^our needle under the two perpendicular threads j^ou insert
it into the hem, downwards froni above, over one thread, so
that it comes out exactly at the verj^ edge
of the fold. These stitches, which ma^^ also
be made on the wrong side of the work,
form a kind of cord beneath the hem.
Ladder hem-stitch (fig. 3). — After
making the first row of stitches, as shewn
in fig. I, draw out a few more threads, 5 in
all. Then turn the work and make a second
row of stitches like the first. You collect
the same threads as in the first row thus
forming vertical rungs or steps.
Serpentine hem-stitch (fig. 4). —
Here again the first row of stitches is
made as in fig. i, bj' taking up each time
an even number of threads. For the se-
cond row take up half the threads of two
clusters, so as to divide the rungs or steps
which will thus form a serpentine line.
How to secure the edges of the
stuff in openwork. — After drawing
out the threads for a hem or an insertion,
you must secure the threads of the stuff
on both sides of the openwork, so as to
keep them in their place and prevent their
slipping into the openwork part. This is
an indispensable precaution in the case of
wide hems or insertions ; for small articles
of fancy-work it is not so necessary.
The simplest way of securing the edges
is shewn in figs, i and 3, it can also be
done by straight and oblique stroke stitches,
set singly or grouped together in the shape
of scallops or squares (see plates I and IV).
For the openwork parts, combined
with embroidery in colours, use cross
stitch and plaited stitch (see plates XIII and XIX). In work
of a more minute description the edges are button-holed or
overcast, as has been done in the patterns represented in
Fig. 7. Crossed back-stiteh.
Wrong side.
Fig, S.
Fancy stitch worked in
one journey.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 9. Fancy stitch
worked in two journeys.
Fig. 10.
\MioIe clusters interverted
once.
plates II, III, VIII, IX, XI, XII and
XVIII, where the stitches are thickly
padded, thus producing a raised effect.
Figs. 5 to 9 also illustrate some
stitches that may be used for this work.
Four-sided stitch (fig. 5). — Draw
out one thread of the stuff, skip three
threads and draw out one.
The stitches are made in a row from
right to left. Begin with a vertical stitch
upwards over the three isolated threads,
then carry the needle on the wrong side
of the work three threads downwards
to the left, make one horizontal stitch
to the right which will touch the verti-
cal stitch at the top, and finally bring
out the needle below to the left of the
horizontal stitch. Then make a vertical
stitch again and so on. Bj^ drawing the
thread tight you get small square stit-
ches accompanied above and below by
little eyelet holes. In looselj' woven .stuffs
it is not necessar}^ to draw out a thread
top and bottom, the openwork effect
results of itself by the threads being
drawn closely together.
Crossed back-stitch (figs. 6 and 7). Divided clusters interverted
The right and the wrong side of this
stitch both serve for securing the edges
of the stuff. Leave a band of stuff,
three threads deep, then draw out one
thread above and below.
For the execution described by the
engraving, fig. 6, you insert the needle
as for ordinary back-stitch, .slip it under
the stuff, slanting it a little towards
the second outline of the drawing, and
bringing it out one thread beyond the Kg- i.^- Two whole clusters
^ ^ .... interverted once
first stitch. After making one back-stitch ,vith two haif-ciusters.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
over two threads of the stuff, sHp the needle upwards
again under the stuff and bring it out two threads further
on for a new stitch.
Fig. 13. Two whole clusters
interverted once with four
half-clusters.
Fig. 14.
Four clusters once interverted and
once crossed.
The intercrossing of the threads and the way this stitch
is worked on the wrong side are shewn in fig. 7.
Fig. 15-
Four clusters ouce interv^erted
and twice crossed.
Fig. 16.
Whole clusters once interverted
and three times crossed.
Fancy stitch worked in one journey (fig. 8). — Here
again the band of stuff is three threads deep, but two threads
of the stuff must be drawn out both above and below.
Beginning below on the right, make two back-stitches
from left to right over four disengaged threads, these are
followed by two stitches over three horizontal threads and
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
two vertical ones, sloped to the right ; after which you make
two horizontal back-stitches over four threads at the top to
come back to the first line with two slanting stitches over
Fig. 17. Two clusters
once iuterverted in two rows.
Fig. iS. Four clusters
doubly iuterverted in two rows.
three horizontal and two vertical stitches, sloped to the right.
Continue in this manner drawing the stitches very tight and
the open parts will come out very distinctly.
Fancy stitch k^'"-"^'
worked in two
journeys (fig. 9)
The stitchesare made
over five horizontal
threads, and one
thread is drawn out
top and bottom
The first row
consists of single
stitches, see figs, i
to 3, one of which
is worked upwards
and the other down
wards (see also the
explanatory
on the left side of
the engraving). In the second journey j^ou add a row of
oblique stitches in the middle of the band, set between
the stitches of the first row; in the engraving these stitches
are shewn by a dark thread.
Fie; 19 Three lowed mserti n
with diMded clusters once inter\Lrted and little
waved insertions between.
detail Materials : Coarse linen with double threads, in ecru,
and D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Corn yellow 712.
10
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Different ways of
openworking the bands
of drawn stitch. — The
openwork can be produced
in various waj^s :
1° By drawing the
li^teStii^ta^ffi^iiiffiliMiffl clusters of threads opposite
waj's ;
2°
Fig. 2o. Insertion with interverted
clusters in two rows.
llaterials : Coarse tammy cloth with double
threads, in ecru, and D-M-C Special crochet
cotton No. 3, in Snow-White.
By knotting the
clusters ;
3° Bj' embroidering over
the clusters ;
4° By linking the
clusters together with
small decorative subjects.
Different w^ays of
drawing the clusters
together interverted (figs.
10, II, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16,
17, 18). — You draw the
clusters together opposite
ways bj^ slipping a needle
and coarse thread under one
cluster which you then slip
over one of the next clusters.
To keep the clusters in their
new position you pass the
coarse thread between the clusters
that are interverted.
You can draw the clusters opposite
ways in one journey or in several
parallel lines, then you can take either
whole clusters, or divided ones, or
several clusters at once as will be
seen from the following examples.
We begin with the small strips made
ill one journej'; fig. 10 shews us the
plainest one, two whole clusters once
interverted.
For this you draw, as we have just said, the second cluster
over the first and the coarse thread passes over the second
Fig. 21, Insertion Mith interverted clusters
crossed three times and embroidered over.
^Materials : Coarse Unen, in ecru, and D-M-C
Flax thread for knitting and crochet Xo. R,
in white.
Fig. 22.
Triple clusters knotted
once with a vertical thread.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
II
Fig. 23. Triple clusters
knotted twice with two parallel
vertical threads.
cluster and under the first. For the stripe fig. 11 the clusters
are divided before they are interverted ; this pattern
presents a less open efiiect than the j
preceding one.
The engraving fig. 12 shews two
whole clusters interverted with two
half-clusters and fig. 13 a design
consisting of two whole and four
half clusters.
The patterns of figs. 14 and 15
are formed of four clusters inter-
verted at the same time. For fig. 14
you draw the third and fourth clus-
ters over the first and the second,
which gives a subject crossed once,
whilst for fig. 15 you intervert the
third and the fourth clusters and
the fourth and the second ; in this
way the clusters appear crossed twice.
Finally fig. 16 shews how to
execute in one journey a row crossed
three times. To get this effect you
intervert the fourth and first clusters,
the sixth and the third, the eighth
and the fifth and so on.
Two more patterns are added in
which the clusters are interverted in two
parallel rows. Fig. 17 shews a double row
of the motives of fig. 10, and fig. 18 a
double row of the motives of fig. 15. The
position of the needle shows the working
of the second row.
Three-rowed insertion ■with divided
clusters once interverted and little
waved insertions between (fig. 19). —
The following patterns are to shew the
uses to which the different crossed open-
work stitches just described can be put. For the three-rowed
insertion, fig. 19, repeat the stitch illustrated by fig. 3 six
times ; the first and sixth time for beginning and finishing
the insertion, the second and fifth time after having drawn
Fig. 24. Quadruple clusters,
divided, knotted twdce ^^'ith two
vertical threads.
Fig. 25. single clusters
knotted once in a serpentine
line without overcasting
stitches.
12
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 26.
Double clusters knotted once
in a serpentine line
with overcasting stitches.
Fig. 27.
Quadruple clusters once
knotted in a serpentine line with
overcasting stitches.
Fig. 28. Sextuple clusters
twice knotted with a pattern consisting
of button-holed squares.
out six threads of the stuff, the third
and the fourth time after drawing out
eight threads. All the clusters must
consist of four threads of the stuff.
The first and the third rows must be
worked after fig. 4, the middle row
after fig. 11.
Insertion with interverted
clusters in two rows (fig. 20). — After
drawing out twelve threads of the stuff
and securing the edges with the stitch
shewn in fig. 3 worked over three
disengaged threads, you make two
series of stitches interverting the
whole clusters as shewn in fig. 17.
Insertion with interverted
clusters crossed three times
and embroidered over (fig. 21).
Draw out twenty-five threads of
the stuff ; the isolated threads
on both sides are then secured
by oblique stroke stitches over
six threads.
The clusters are then crossed
in the middle of their height by
means of the stitch represented
m fig. 16, after which you
introduce another thread each
side of the first, following the
clusters proceeding from the
first assemblage. After draw-
ing the first threads through
you surround the clusters
with overcast stitches by
means of a second thread,
thus enclosing them between
two threads.
Different w^ays of knot-
ting the clusters (figs. 22,
23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31).
The insertions with knotted
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
13
Fig. 29.
Single clusters knotted with
the Turkish knot.
clusters constitute a second variety of drawn thread work on
linen. The knotted clusters can be made in one or more parallel
rows, and the auxiliary thread that
serves to make the knots, may be
visible and form at the same time
part of the pattern, or maj^ be used
only for the knots and pass more or
less invisibly from one cluster to
another. For a single row you connect
the clusters by a knot formed by an
interverted chain stitch, in more
elaborate patterns you can use both
overcasting and button-hole stitch.
We recommend all these kinds of
openwork being done on the wrong
side, in this way it will be found
easier to carry the thread invisibly
from one cluster to another and the
chain stitch will also present a
better appearance.
We begin our series of patterns by
those with knotted clusters worked
in one row and in which the auxiliary
thread is visible ; fig. 22 shows the
making of a knot with an interverted
chain stitch in an insertion formed
by triple clusters, once knotted. The
thread with which j'ou make the collect-
ing knots descends vertically and links
the clusters together.
In fig. 23 the clusters appear much
longer, they are knotted twice, which
forms a pattern with horizontal bars in
the middle of the insertion.
For fig. 24 you draw four clusters
together and these are afterwards divided
in the second row so as to form in
the middle a serpentine pattern.
In the next figures the thread that served to make the
knots is carried over the clusters without shewing in the
empty spaces between.
Fig. 30.
Double clusters knotted with
the Turkish knot.
Fig. 31. Clusters knotted
in serpentine line
by horizontal stitches.
14
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 32. Insertion formed
of two rows of triple clusters once knotted.
Materials : Coarse tamni}' cloth with double threads,
in ecru, D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread
No. 16, in Cream 579.
The little insertion fig. 25 is a specimen of single openwork
without the edges being overcast or secured in any way by
stitches, as in small articles of fancy-work. The clusters of
threads are knotted in a zig-zag line by means of single chain
stitches and without overcasting stitches between these latter.
Fig. 26 shews a si-
milar pattern but with
the edges secured against
fraying and the clusters
encircled in the middle
by an overcasting stitch.
For the insertion
illustrated by fig. 27
you each time knot four
clusters together ; the
serpentine bars in the
middle of the strip are
lightly overcast.
Fig. 28 shews an in-
sertion consisting of a
double row of sextuple
clusters, the middle bars
set in the shape of lo-
zenges are encircled with
fill button-hole stitches.
The single Turkish
I knot, fig. 29, is often
used when the edges of
a wide insertion are to
be ornamented with a
row of eyelet holes. After
drawing out two or three
threads of the stuff col-
lect three or five together
by means of the knot explained by the engraving, and
the result will be a row of small round holes.
Fig. 30 shews the use of the Turkish knot to collect two
clusters in a wider insertion. In this way small isolated crosses
are formed, the opposite to those in fig. 22, where the clusters
are visibly connected by the thread that served to make the
collecting knot.
Fig. 33. Insertion of knotted clusters
with vertical bars.
Materials : Coarse tammy cloth, in cream,
D-M-C Crochet cotton, special quality, No. 5.
in Cream 579.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Finall}', in fig. 31, we give a narrow serpentine insertion
where the pattern is formed solely by horizontal overcasting
stitches ; this work is not very strong and we cannot recommend
its use save in certain fancy articles not exposed to much wear.
The ensuing pattern of insertions will shew the use of
the stitches we have been
described.
Insertion formed
of twro rows of triple
clusters once knotted
(fig. 32). — Draw out twice
twelve threads of the stuff
with an interval of four
threads, and secure the
edges from frajdng by
stitches over 2 threads, as
in fig. 3. After fastening
in the thread, knot three
clusters together by means
of three interverted chain
stitches, see also fig. 22.
The thread that crosses the
middle of the empty spaces
between must always be
given a little play.
Insertion of knotted
clusters writh vertical
bars (fig. 33). — The
stitches to secure the edges
are to be worked over four
threads, you then draw out
twenty threads between the
edges. The pattern itself is
worked after fig. 23, only instead of knotting the clusters
together with only one chain stitch you do it with three.
Turkish insertion with two rows of isolated clusters
(fig. 34). — After securing the edges by stitches set over three
horizontal and four vertical threads, draw out for each band
sixteen threads of the stuff. The crossed figures of the second
band are interverted as regards those of the first band. Fig. 30
shows the working of the stitch.
Fig. 34. Turkis _
with two rows of isolated clusters.
Materials : Ivinen of medium coarseness, in white,
D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Golden yellow 782.
FiK 3 ^
Fig 36
Lorded isolated
Corded bars m
bars.
zig-zag line.
i6
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
^31
i^gt
TlStJkJ.^::^ =Na=^^^^H
i - K H K ►— -^V— s-^^^E^fc .CL
IMp-^^f^
Fig. 37. Bars covered
with darnine stitches.
Different ways of embroidering the clusters (figs. 35,
36, 37, 38). — The third class of drawn work comprises the
insertions with embroidered clusters ; this work requires more
trouble and patience than the preceding kind, for the
clusters of threads entirely disappear under the embroidery
that forms the pattern.
The stitch most frequently used for
this embroidery is darning stitch, together
sometimes with overcasting and button-
hole stitches.
Fig. 35 explains the making of the
little corded bars used either for orna-
menting a narrow hem or for making
latticed grounds in works of a larger size.
(See also the grounds figs. 72 to 78, and
the borders figs. 97 to 99.) — As seen in
fig- 35. tfie thread is carried downwards
from above in the middle of the cluster to be corded; be-
ginning at the bottom, you completely surround the cluster,
consisting in this instance of four threads of the stuff, with
overcasting stitches.
Fig. 36 shews the corded bars
placed in a zig-zag line. Here the
bars are worked alternately up-
wards and downwards, and over
clusters of three threads onh^ At
the junction of two bars you
connect them by two overcasting
stitches over the six threads they
are composed of ; in this way you
have an insertion of serpentine bars.
The bars covered with darning
stitches, fig. 37, always require
clusters made of an even nuinber
of threads. The bars are made from
right to left, to and fro, the needle
being always inserted in the middle of the threads of the cluster.
Insert the needle, eye foremost, the point turned against
the thimble, this facilitates the work and prevents you from
splitting the threads of the clusters. When the bar is finished,
turn the work round, so as always to work in the same
Fig. 38. Pyramids covered with
daruing stitches.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
17
direction, that is to say, having the finished part on the
right of your needle.
To shew how larger figures are worked in darning stitch,
we give in fig. 38 an insertion composed of pyramids in course
of execution and shewing the work in progress. The needle
travels to and fro over a settled number of clusters till all
the threads of the stuff are entirely covered.
Insertion in
darning stitch. — The
following patterns repre-
sent insertions of Slav or
Hungarian origin ; they
are executed in darning
stitch. These insertions
are employed as borders
for trimming house-linen
and wearing apparel
they are mostly executed
in white on ecru linen
more rarelj' in colourb
In the latter case, verj
bright decided colourb
are preferable : red, blue,
green and orange, some
parts are even embroide-
red in black. In addition 'i^SirMSSfMSS^^'i^MmiMvfi^^^
Fig. 40. Insertion with three rows of bars in
darning stitch in three colours.
Materials : Coarse tammy cloth with double threads,
in white, D'M-C Pearl cotton No. 5,
in Scarlet 304, Pistachio green 319 and
Mandarin j^ellow 741.
Fig. 39. Insertion with two rows of bars in
darning stitch in one colour.
Materials • Coarse linen in cream
D M C Crochet c ittou bell mark No =; m ecru
to these patterns we give
a series of Persian subjects
copied from the ancient
veils, which are famous
for their great beauty.
In these kinds of drawn work it often happens that the
embroidery stitches that cover the clusters fill up the whole
width of the insertion, it will therefore in these cases be
unnecessary to secure the threads of the edges by over-
casting stitches.
Insertion ■with tivo ro'ws of bars in darning stitch in
one colour (fig. 39). — Draw out 14 threads. Pass the working
thread so that it may disappear under the darning stitches
made to and fro over ten threads, in sufficient number to cover
the isolated threads to half their height.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 41. Insertion with three ro\^"S of bars
of different lengths in darning stitch.
Materials : Coarse linen with double threads,
in w-hite, D-]M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread
No. 8, in Golden bronze 5S8.
To reach the second cluster, reinsert the needle under the
last darning stitches, carry the thread under the isolated threads
and begin the second cluster by dividing the threads as the
figure indicates. Fig. 37 also explains the execution of the
^^!^4:i^^^L^u^L^u^L-^ bars in darning stitch.
Insertion with
three rows of bars in
darning stitch in three
colours (fig. 40). — After
drawing out 18 threads of
the stuff, collect the ver-
tical threads and work
the darning stitches over
the ten threads as in tig.
39, but in three colours
instead of one, using al-
ways the same colour for
.tp three clusters in a dia-
i^ gonal line.
Insertion Avith three
rows of bars of diffe-
rent lengths in darning
stitch (fig. 41). — vSecure
the edges with stroke
stitches set slanting over
four threads of the stuft",
then draw twenty hori-
.,v,x^ zontal threads for the
'^" openwork. The bars of the
Fig. 42. Insertion in darning stitch. . -u ■ v
Diagonalrowsof bars of two sizes form the pattern. ^WO exterior roWS, whlch
Materials : Linen of medium coarseness, in white, are longer than thoSC of
DM-C Flax lace thread No. i6, in white. ,1 -j n j 1
the middle row, take a
few more stitches to cover them than the middle ones which
are nearly square.
Insertion in darning stitch. Diagonal rows of bars of
two sizes form the pattern (fig. 42). — The edges are se-
cured by oblique stitches over four threads of the stuff and
28 threads are then removed for the openwork. The pattern
is composed of two diagonal rows of five bars covered with
darning stitches worked over two clusters of threads, which
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
19
alternate with one diagonal row of five squares worked over
3 clusters of threads.
Insertion in darning stitch writh pattern of pyramids
(fig 43) — Heie too the edges are first secured bv oblique
Fis: 43 liisLition m daminc; ^titeh \mUi p^ ItLiii oi juiiuud^
Materials Coaise linen, m white, D M C Floss flax or flounshm^ thread No 8,
in Golden bronze 588 or D-M-C Special stranded cotton, in Hazel-nut brown 423.
Li^\\i'Xj-^\
t5i?S \a U5ta ^liaSta^iiJi^ tirilid"3iai:iT5id&
Fig. 44. Insertion in darning stitch in three colours.
Materials : Einen of medium coarseness, in white, D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread
No. 8, in Indigo 311, Geranium red 349 and Saffron 725.
stitches over four threads ; the oi^enwork requires the removal
of thirty threads of the stufl".
The pyramids are worked over twelve clusters of threads,
the little squares placed in diagonal lines over two.
20
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
Insertion in darning stitch in three colours (fig. 44). — •
The pattern requires the removal of thirty threads and
the edges are secured by oblique stitches over three threads
of the stuff. One subject of this insertion takes twenty
clusters; you begin by the wide parts forming the pyramids,
iHiim4|a^^u^]lKgilg.M^^ ^J^i^^ ^ ^'^'^ . covered
5|!^iy;t_,;Ti^.^.^i-5-yn^^ with darning stit-
ches in dark blue
over three clusters.
The inside bars of
the pyramids are
worked in red,
the bars between
them in yellow,
the latter taking
two clusters of
threads.
Insertion in
darning stitch
with lozenge pat-
tern (fig. 45). —
^^ tj i^iH, For this figure draw
out 32 threads and
Fig. 45. Insertion in darning stitch with lozenge pattern.
Materials : Coarse linen with donble threads, in cream,
D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Royal blue 797,
("cranium red 340 and T^n-^crine yellow "4''
w w %p w "^w '^^''1^ ^Tr n'' ^'f-r
.-.=^ „<j_ „ ^.., ,.^„ _-iy . „.™ -vvith oblique stit-
T\u 4'' III *-rti n funned J; i olatcd clu ter
111 darning blitch.
Materials : Coarse tammy cloth witli double threads
in cream, D-M-C Special stranded cotton No. 25,
in Hazel-nut bro^vn 424.
ches over three
threads of the stuft".
One subject occu-
pies 22 clusters of
threads. The lo-
zenges are em-
broidered in blue ;
the intermediate
figures in red and the framing of the lozenges in yellow.
Insertion formed of isolated clusters in darning stitch
(fig. 46). — Draw out twenty' threads. The square stitches
that secure the edges are made over four threads, see fig. 5.
Three clusters secured and collected together at the edges are
covered, in the middle, with ten to twelve darning stitches.
The thread is fastened off after each bar.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
21
Insertion with the pattern in darning stitch worked
in four colours (fig. 47). — Draw out 28 threads. The
pjaamids take six clusters of three threads each, in a medium
shade and a dark shade of green. For centre figure, worked
in Dawn red, you collect three clusters on the right and three
on the left. The middle is in black.
Insertion in darning stitch and corded stitch (fig. 48).
Draw out twenty threads. Overcasting stitches, over three
threads in height and three in width, edge the insertion.
At the bottom a second row of overcasting stitches succeeds
to the first ; these, set parallel to the others, are made over
, three, six and nine threads. The first cluster of three threads
of the stuff must
be encircled six
times by the wor-
king thread, which
is then carried up-
wards to the edge.
Passing then to the
second and third
cluster you cover
them with six darn-
ing stitches, suc-
ceeded by twelve
stitches on the first
and the second
cluster until there UM-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Scarab green 3348 and 3345,
1 Dawn red 360 and Black fast dye 310.
remains only space
enough uncovered for the six overcasting stitches. The second
part is done in the same way only reversed.
Different w^ays of connecting the clusters by decora-
tive figures. — In this last series of insertions the clusters
of threads are connected by different combinations of stitches
made with the needle, admitting of great variety. Those
employed in Renaissance and Teneriffe lace and in embroidered
net are adaptable here.
The ones most frequently used are wheels or spiders, either
detached or connected by knotted lines, and next to these come
rounds and festoons, corded or embroidered in relief, picots
and rosettes in post stitch, &c.
Fig. 47. Insertion with the pattern in darning stitch
worked in four colours.
Materials : Coarse linen with double threads, iu white,
-22
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
i%m
Fig. 48. Insertion in darning stitch and corded stitch.
Materials: Coarse tamni}' cloth, in ecru,
D M C Spf-ial crochet cotton No 'i in ecru
Fig. 49. Insertion ^Mtn wheels.
Materials : Fine tammy cloth, in cream,
D-M-C Cotton lace thread No ^o in ecru
,'4*^1-^74 T
.4.4
Fig 50 In crlicn with h <_1 ml niii n ladder
inbLrtioiih, top and bottom.
Materials : Coarse linen, in ecru, D-M-C Flax thread
for knitting and crochet No. 8, in white.
Insertion with
wheels (fig. 49). —
The edges are secured
with cross stitch, see
fig. 7. You connect
four clusters for a
wheel. The thread
fastened on in the
middle of the inser-
tion jDasses alterna-
teh^ over and under a
cluster. You make se-
veral rows as in darn-
ing, stopping there
where the thread en-
tered to form the
wheel, and you pass
under the wheel to
reach the next four
clusters, see also figs.
81 and 82.
Insertion w^ith
wheels and narrow
ladder insertions ,
top and bottom (fig.
50). — Draw out 5
threads for the nar-
row insertions and
22 for the wide one.
P'or the exterior
borders connect four
threads of the stuff,
see fig. 3, the strips
of stuff are edged
with cross stitches,
see fig. 6. The middle
clusters are connected
on both sides by a
knotted back-stitch
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
m
represented in the
figure, then you
collect always four
and four at half
their length by
three interverted
chain stitches, see
fig. 22, and then
pass the thread at
the intersection of
the threads of the
two first rows of
stitches to form a
■wheel there, over
5 threads, before
going on to the
next bars.
Insertion with
whole and half-
wheels (fig. 51).
r'or the insertion
draw out 24 threads
of the stuff, the
edges are secured
by half- wheels ;
you begin by car-
rying the working
thread over the two
middle threads,
j'ou then advance
successively from
both sides until
3'ou have eight
threads in the half
circle. The whole
wheels are made
separately and over
the same clusters
of threads as the
half-wheels.
Fig 51 Insertion %Mth \Ahole and half wheels
Materials ; Fine tammy cloth, in cream,
D-M-C Special stranded cotton. No. 25, in Red brown 923.
Fi
T-i
'^ tT ^^ iHli:''^"''^^^'^
luscition %Mth barb m darnm,, stitch
and cuided eyelet-holeb.
Materials : Coarse linen with double threads,
ill cream D-M-C Flax lace thread No ''S in white
Fig. 53. Insertion with bars and rosettes ornamented
with winding stitch.
Materials: L^inen of medium coarseness, in white,
D-M-C Flax lace thread No. i6, in Cream 579.
24
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Insertion with bars in darning stitch and corded
eyelet-holes (fig. 52). — Draw out 28 threads. The edges are
secured by stroke stitches set vertically over two to five threads.
The pattern itself is begun in the middle, on nine threads of
the stuff with eight to nine corded stitches, then you divide
Fig. 54. How to cut and isolate
the threads at the corners.
Fig. 55. Securing the threads at a
corner by button-hole stitches.
Fig. 56. Turning down the threads on
the wrong side and fastening them off.
Fig. 57. How to form the corner of
the insertion lig. lo.
the threads into three equal parts and add, on each side of
the first stitches, twelve to fourteen darning stitches, thus
leaving at most only J inch of isolated threads uncovered.
When two bars in darning stitch are finished, you connect
them by four button-hole stitches — one loop stitch — then
you wind the single thread round several times more and cover
the ring closely with corded stitches.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
25
Insertion with bars and rosettes ornamented with
winding stitch (fig. 53). — Draw out 24 threads. The edges
are ornamented with vertical stroke stitches over two, three,
four and five threads. Count four threads for the corded bars,
eight for the bar in darning stitch ornamented with picots in
winding stitch, and sixteen threads for the ground of the rosette.
Collect the threads of the stuff for a wheel and then cover it
entirelj^ with winding stitch. The loop that connects one bar
with the other is made as you work. Having reached the desired
point, carry the thread towards the first bar and come back to
*■>'■*'- **v -
w to form the corner
of the insertion fig. 50.
Fig. 59. How to form the corner
of the insertion fig. 32.
finish it. As the engraving shews the pattern may also be
worked in two colours.
Arrangement of the insertions at the corners (figs. 54,
55. 56)- — When insertions form the borders to a square piece
of work, you begin by cutting the threads to within a | inch
of the edge of the hem or of the insertion itself, then you iso-
late them as fig. 54 shews. You introduce the isolated threads
into the foldover of the hem and fix them there with button-
hole stitches, fig. 55, or else if the hem stitching is not to be
interrupted, you turn the threads down at the back and sew
them down there with a few stitches, fig. 56.
Formation of the corners of insertions of one row^
(fig. 57). — By drawing out both the warp and the woof threads
you get an empty square at the corner which is then filled by
a small decorative figure. As an example we give, in fig. 57,
the small insertion with interverted clusters, fig. 10, the empty
26
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
^^^»^
,11'^^=^" IV" mi I
Fl-, 6o Cutting
out the threads inside the
square of stiiff.
square at the corner of which is ornamented by a wheel with
eight spokes, j^ou carry the thread of the first insertion to the
opposite edge, insert it into the hem, then carry it back to the
centre of the wheel that is to be made ; trace the five other
spokes, make the wheel on seven threads, fasten the thread on
the opposite side of the second insertion, pass it under the
wheel and make the eighth spoke by taking the thread across
to the second insertion.
Forming the corners of insertions
consisting of several rows (figs. 58
and 59). — In the case of insertions
consisting of several rows, you can
make the corners in two different ways ;
either you cut the threads right up
to each strip of stuff, or you draw out
all the threads up to the hem. We give
examples of both ways.
Fig. 58 shews the corner of inser-
tion fig. 50 for which the threads have
been cut up to each strip of stuff. The
small corners are filled with a small
wheel of four spokes, the big one with
a wheel of twelve spokes richly orna-
mented, see also fig. 84.
The corner fig. 59 of the insertion
fig. 32 is more troublesome to make.
For it, all the threads near the hem
have been cut ; the disengaged threads
from the middle strips of stuff are
Fig. 61. Drawing transformed into bars in darning stitch,
out the threads throughout the and the four empty corners are filled
whole surface of the stuff. .,, , , r ■ t j_ i
With wheels of eight spokes.
Cut stitch (Punto tagliato). — For cut stitch embroidery
you draw out both the warp and the woof threads.
The number of threads to be drawn out depends not only
on the pattern chosen, but also on the stuft' on which the
embroidery is to be done.
The threads remaining between the empty spaces then
serve as canvas for the different kinds of stuff. You must be
careful only to choose stuffs with the warp and woof threads
of equal size, so that the spaces left by the removal of the
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
27
threads may be exactly square ; otherwise the appearance of
the work, when finished, will suffer considerably.
Cut stitch done -with the machine. — As in the case
of the patterns done in drawn stitch those in cut stitch can
also be done with the machine. For their execution see
directions given on page 5.
Cutting out the threads inside the square of stuff
(fig. 60). — Often embroideries in cut stitch are framed in
other kinds of embroidery. In such cases, you cut the threads
to about one inch within the work, and only then isolate them
so as to preserve the inside edges of the stuff intact. You must
draw out an equal number of threads both ways. For most
Fig b- Fc^tconcd ed^L liir cut stitch
cnibr( ndcr\
Corded edge for ciit-stitch
embroidery.
patterns you have to leave as many threads as you remove.
Fig. 60 shews four threads removed and four left.
Drawing out the threads throughout the w^hole surface
of the stuff (fig. 61.) — In fig. 61, where the threads are drawn
out to the edge, you will observe four threads drawn out for
every three left. This difference is admissible when you want
to make the work more transparent than it would be by removing
and covering the same number of threads.
Festooned edge for cut-stitch embroidery (fig. 62). — To
prevent the cut edges of stuffs from unravelling they should be
festooned or button-holed, as shewn in the engraving fig. 62.
Corded edge for cut-stitch embroidery (fig. 63). — A
small cord or overcasting is almost better than festooning for
strengthening the edges in the more elaborate patterns. You
calculate, before cutting into the stuff, how many threads you
28
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
Fig. 64. First openwork ground.
^^^ith horizontal and vertical bars.
have to remove, then trace out your pattern with tacking
stitches ; this done you cut to within two threads of the tracing
stitches, the stuff to be removed, and immediately overcast
the cut edge with stitches made over one or two padding threads,
which gives a slight relief to
the edges.
Grounds. — The sixteen
subjects we are now going to
describe, designated "grounds",
are chiefly used to ornament
the openwork parts in pieces
of work of a certain importance
as regards size, see plate XVI ;
they can always be used as
insertions or scalloped borders,
as has been done for the
patterns illustrated by our
plates XI and XII.
The easiest subjects are
those in which the clusters are
only partly embroidered over
or merely knotted like those
of our first figures. They are
followed by patterns in which
the ground consists of corded
bars or bars worked in darning
stitch, copied from old pieces of
needlework of Italian or Persian
origin. These are rather long
and difficult to do but workers
will be rewarded for their
trouble by the solidity and
beauty of the result.
First openvrork ground. With horizontal and vertical
bars (fig. 64). — Cut three horizontal and three vertical threads,
leaving an interval of three threads between.
By drawing out the cut threads you get an open ground
resembling net. The isolated threads are overcast in diagonal
rows so as to make round bars. The intersections of the threads
are covered by an oblique stitch ; the bars, according to their
Fig. 65. Second openwork ground.
with clusters connected together :
diagonal rows.
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
29
Fig. 66. Third openworis: ground.
With interverted loop stitches.
direction, by two vertical or two horizontal stitches, as the
engraving shews.
Second openwork ground. With clusters connected
together in diagonal rows (fig. 65.) — In height and breadth:
cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads.
Here likewise the ground
is worked in diagonal rows ;
the pattern is formed by con-
necting the clusters together
by a single knot in a coarse
thread. The engraving ex-
plains how the knot is made.
Third openwork
ground. With interverted
loop stitches (fig. 66). —
In height and breadth : cut
four threads leaving an in-
terval of four threads. Here
the pattern is produced b}^
isolated loop stitches placed
in every alternate emptj^
space and which embrace
each way the four disen-
gaged threads of the net.
As seen in the engraving,
these stitches are worked in
diagonal rows, and the thread
in its passage from stitch to
stitch is hidden under the
little square of stuff.
Fourth openwork
ground. With loop stitches
set in lines (fig. 67). — In
height and breadth : cut six
threads leaving an interval
of six threads. This ground
is more covered than the foregoing one, each empty space is
filled by a loop stitch interlaced over only three disengaged
threads of the net and worked in vertical rows. By the
clusters being divided in this manner, you get oval eyelet
holes between the squares of stuff.
Fig. 67. Fourtli openwork ground.
With loop stitches set in lines.
30
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
Fig. 68. Fifth openworlj ground.
With diagonal net.
Fifth openwork grovmd. With diagonal net (fig. 68). — In
height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an interval of
four threads. Begin by making the diagonal net, for which
you lay a thread covered afterwards by overcasting stitches
set very wide apart.
In the engraving, all the
threads running from right to
left are laid and overcast,
likewise some of the threads
from left to right crossing
the first ones ; it shews too
how to lay the thread and
overcast it.
When the net is quite
finished, 5'ou frame each
square of stuff — which
seems covered with a thread
stretched across diagonally
— with square stitches to be
worked in horizontal rows.
Sixth openwork ground.
With knotted clusters and
filling of single spiders
(fig. 6g). — In height and
breadth : cut nine threads
leaving an interval of nine
threads. With the disengaged
threads form clusters con-
nected once horizontally or
vertically by means of a knot
described for the ground
fig. 65, or by an interverted
chain stitch.
When all the clusters are
knotted, stretch across the
diagonal threads that com-
plete the spiders. Here the thread passes — always diagonally
— over the ist, 2nd and 3rd, under the 4th, 5th and 6th,
and over the 7th, 8th and 9th of the nine threads of the
squares of stuff, which gives greater firmness to this openwork.
You begin by stretching the threads across from left to
Fig. 69. Sixtli opcnworl: ground.
With knotted clusters and filling of
single spiders.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
31
70. Seventh openwork ground.
With interverted clusters
right, and this layer iinished you stretch the threads across
in the opposite direction, taking care to connect them in
the middle by a knot and thus putting a small spider with
six legs in each empty space.
Seventh openwork
ground. With interverted
clusters and filling of
single spiders and wheels
in darning stitch (fig. 70).
In height and breadth : cut
twelve threads leaving an in-
terval of twelve threads.
The disengaged threads,
divided into three equal
clusters, are to be divided
and interverted in horizontal
and vertical rows. When all
the clusters are interverted,
you begin by stretching the ^nd eUmg of smgle spiders and wheels
J • 1 . 1 T in daruine stitch.
diagonal threads across,
passing them over the ist
to the 4th, under the 5th to
the 8th and over the 9th to
the I2th of the threads of
the squares of stuff.
Where the threads cross
each other you connect
them b}? a single knot, thus
forming spiders. Finally? the
squares of stuff are orna-
mented with a little wheel in
darning stitch, for which you
pass the thread four times
under the diagonal threads.
Eighth openwork
ground. With knotted
clusters, spiders in loop stitch and lozenges in flat
stitch (fig. 71). — In height and breadth: cut twelve threads
leaving an interval of twelve threads.
The disengaged threads are to be divided into two equal
groups and knotted in the middle by a single knot in a horizontal
Fig. 71. Eighth openw-ork ground.
With knotted clusters, spiders in loop stitch
and lozenges in flat stitch.
32
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
Fig. 72. Ninth ground.
Willi corded bars and little overcast
direction. The empty spaces are filled by a loop stitch
placed in the corners of the squares of stuff and connected each
time with the stretched threads by a single knot. I^astl^^ you
ornament the squares of stuff by a lozenge formed of stroke
stitches, alternately vertical
and horizontal.
Ninth ground. With
corded bars and little
overcast crosses (fig. 72).
In height and breadth : cut
four threads leaving an in-
terval of four threads.
Begin by the vertical rows
of corded bars, executed
according to the indications
given for fig. 35 ; on reaching
the middle of everj'' second
bar lay a horizontal thread
to form the overcast bars for
the little crosses. In making
the rows of horizontal bars,
lay the vertical threads which
are to intersect the horizontal
bars so as to form little crosses
(note the position of the needle
in the engraving).
Tenth ground. With
corded bars and squares
of little overcast crosses
(fig. 73). — In height and
breadth : cut four threads
leaving an interval of four
threads.
In this pattern four empty
spaces alternate regularly with
four which are ornamented
with little overcast squares.
This ground is worked like the preceding one : 3'ou begin by
making the rows of vertical bars with the overcast horizontal
ones, then in cording the horizontal bars you complete the
little crosses by the vertical bars.
1
M
™Ls
1 e
IMS
sit^ 1
Ifc^3
ud
M i^ iiwt*
111 ' IS ^ ^
r^-~— saj^-' ---4
sS^^^^^^^^~j
L t
i
^
^^^^
Fig. 73. Tenth ground.
With corded bars and squares of little
overcast crosses.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
33
Fig. 74. Eleventh ground.
With corded bars and interverted loop
stitches.
Eleventh ground. With corded bars and interverted
loop stitches (fig. 74). — In height and breadth: cut four
threads leaving an interval of four threads.
This pattern which is very like fig. 66, is also ornamented
with loop stitches. You begin
by finishing all the vertical
rows of corded bars, then
whilst working the horizontal
rows, you add a loop stitch
in every second emptj^ space,
beginning it alwaj^s in the
middle of a bar.
Twelfth ground. With
corded bars and diagonal
crosses of overcast bars
(fig. 75). — In height and
breadth : cut four threads
leaving an interval of four
threads. Our engraving iig. 75
represents a ground of corded
bars with diagonal crosses of
overcast bars which recalls
the pattern of fig. 68.
You first complete the
corded ground, then indepen-
dently of it you add the over-
cast crosses. For these crosses
3^ou begin by making all the
diagonal bars in every second
empty space, that slant from
right to left, then you com-
plete the crosses by adding
the rows of bars that slant
from left to right (note also
the position of the needle in
the engraving).
Thirteenth ground. With corded bars and overcast
diagonal bars (fig. 76). — In height and breadth: cut four
threads leaving an interval of four threads.
This ground looks rather more transparent than the preceding
one, for the empty spaces are only ornamented with overcast
Fig. 75. Twelfth ground.
\^'ith corded bars and diagonal crosses
of overcast bars.
34
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 76. Thirteenth ground.
With corded bars
and overcast diagonal bars.
bars. The corded ground is here worked in diagonal rows,
see tig. 64, then, starting from the middle of the little squares
of stuff, you make the overcast bars at the same time.
Fourteenth ground.
With corded bars and
oblique crosses formed
of bars in darning stitch
(fig. 77). — In height and
breadth : cut four threads
leaving an interval of four
threads.
This ground consists again
of four empty squares alter-
nating with four squares filled
with a cross of bars in darn-
ing stitch.
Having finished the ground
of corded bars, you make
diagonal rows, to and fro, of
bars in darning stitch over
the whole surface. For each
bar you lay two threads ; the
darning stitches are made as
indicated for fig. ■^'] .
Fifteenth ground. With
double corded bars and
spiders in single darning
stitch (fig. 78). — In height
and breadth : cut six threads
leaving an interval of six
threads.
For this pattern you begin
by completing all the double
rows of corded vertical bars ;
in course of doing which you
make two horizontal stitches
over three threads in the
middle of the little squares of stuft' that form themselves at
the intersection of the bars. As you make the horizontal bars
you set the two vertical stitches and at the same time the
spiders in single darning stitch.
^^
^
^fU#44^
iiU: Jj- J
m
g
i
^3/
1
1
up
S
E plf A .
L
1^
ft
'^j
I
i
1
IIMH
y
Fig. 77. Fourteenth ground.
\^^itli corded bars and oblique crosses
formed of bars in darning stitgh.
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIKS
35
Sixteenth ground. With bars in interverted darning
stitch and spiders in single darning stitch (fig. 79). — In
height and breadth : cut six threads, leaving an interval of
^
^^^^^
m
1 i(^^
^B
^^^
^ ^c^ii'^iii^^^^
K
aV^^ilV->'^
\^m
^^^
Mm
^^^^^^m
m
awi' i 1
^^
^^^^^^s
1
LwHH
Fiu;. 78. Fifteenth ground.
With double corded bars and spiders in
single darning stitch.
six threads. The ground of bars
in interverted darning stitch is
made in diagonal rows ; you
make alternately one liorizontal
and one vertical bar, see fig. 37.
^
i^
pw^^^
mm
'^^^^^
P
^CrTTTm?^
i/sM/'^^^m
lj^'jLlUjf^^lj^fflV^if;lJ,iJau '
^^^mIWB
MWfflSpffi
^ffl
k
^^^S
^
i
m
1^^ '
k|
jjaj^
Fit; 7<j Sixteenth ground.
With barb lu interverted darning stitch and
spiders in single darning stitch.
Fig So Jlcw to stretch and
overcLtst the ravs.
Fig. 81. How to make the spiders
in interverted darning stitch.
Fig S
bpidcr with eight legb or la^^b.
Completed.
36
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig.
83. How to stretch the rays
of single thread.
84. How to add tlie run
of knots.
5r
gllllllll
WW
:,::[
^i^^m^i
4
8
■'.''.
M'^^^^^^wp -
- - _i
^^a /i^sw^w^Sa^w*B/^^ " -
-ir
^^S^'^^yJ^^^^v^K^^'^ -
-CJ3 (i*^^ -^ li^-*. JXL "■" c
j:::
Sf
-EBl ^ ^ *3^''c'ES'i ^V "^
^^^8
1
Fig. S5. How to make the row
of Uttle spiders in single darning
stitch.
Various subjects. — It re-
mains for us to describe the
working of some of the subjects
frequently used for decorating the
corners in simple insertions, or
tilling the empty spaces in more
elaborate drawn thread work in
cut stitch. In the latter the warp
and woof threads are entirely re-
moved and the ornamental subjects
are executed in the vacant spaces
as in needle-made lace work ;
it is only in the case of large
pieces of openwork that clusters
of threads are sometimes left hj
means of which the vacant space
to be filled is subdivided into
equal parts.
Spider with eight legs
(figs. 80, 81, 83). — The simplest
subjects are wheels or spiders.
Fig. 80 explains the laying of the
overcast rays or spider legs : you
fasten on the thread on the left
at the bottom corner, then carrj'
it diagonally to the right to the
top corner and overcast it half-
wa3^ then stretch the horizontal
rays to the right and left, the
diagonal rays going to the left
towards the top and to the right
at the bottom, and lastly the
vertical rays.
The spider, properly speaking,
is worked in interverted darning
stitch ; you pass the thread alter-
natelj'' over all the diagonal rays
in one row and over all the
straight rays in the next row ■
always taking up two raj^s at
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
37
the end of each row, so as to get rows of interverted stitches.
Fig. 82 shews an eight-legged spider completed.
Rosette composed of one big and tvirelve little spiders
(figs. 83, 84, 85). — This figure requires a web of twelve
rays formed of a single thread.
Begin at the bottom on the left and carry the thread to the
Fig
Fig Sb
Spiral subject.
How to intLi\Lrt thi
threads ot the raj s.
(1( uble
mufimuimmmmmsi
^
\ yTyyp
g
vIy m
Mr W
^i
nK ^
S
/\ i
/^V^ 5
^^
Fig. 87. How to strctchi tlie rays
of double tlireads.
Fie: 89 Spider witii
raj s iiiter\ crted once, completed.
right to the top corner, bring the needle out in the top edge at
a third of the distance from the corner, lay the second ray
downwards, bring the needle out at the bottom at the same
distance from the corner on the right, lay the ray upwards,
then to the left corner and so on. The centre is ornamented
with a spider in interverted darning stitch ; at a very little
38
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
^g
m
^
^Sf
'^^^mM
^ES
iir^^^^
fife^
Fig. 90. Stretched web with spider in the middle.
How to add the row
of knots in intervcrted chain stitcli.
distance from the latter you make, over the rays, a row of
knots in interverted chain stitch, see fig. 84, over which in a
succeeding row you make
little wheels in single
darning stitch, see fig. 85.
Spiral subject
(fig. 86). — We meet
with this spiral subject in
works of American origin.
After laying sixteen rays
of single thread you con-
nect them in the middle
by a little spider in inter-
verted darning stitch and
with the same thread
continue to make rows
of spiral-shaped knots in
interverted chain-stitch,
until j'ou reach the edge
of the stuff.
Spider with rays in-
terverted once (figs. 87,
88, 89). — Here the rays
consist of double threads
stretched in the same
ways as in Tenerift'e lace
(see also the explanatory
engraving, fig. 87). The
spider itself in interverted
darning stitch is made
over the double threads.
I-'ig. 88 explains how to
divide the double threads
of the rays and inter-
vext them once, and
fig. 89 shows the subject
completed.
Quadruple subject with ornaments in darning stitch
(figs. 90 and 91). — Here the empty space is divided equally
into four little squares by six vertical and six horizontal threads,
that have been retained. In each square you stretch five ra3's
Fig. 91
How to add the triangles
darning stitch.
in interverted
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
39
of single thread, that meet in the middle where you make a
spider in interverted darning stitch. You further add, exactly
in the middle of the space between the wheel and the edge,
a circular row of knots in interverted chain stitch ; the clusters.
Fig 92
Ho^^ to festoon the
scallops
consisting of six threads of the stuff, are divided and knotted
together in two parts, the rays of stretched threads on
the contrary are collected together bj' a single knot, see
fig. 90. To complete the subject you add in each corner.
Fig. 93.
How to cord the
scallops.
outside the collecting knot, a triangle in interverted darning
stitch, see fig. 91.
Scalloped edge. — If you wish to finish off a piece of
drawn thread work with small scallops, the edges must be
carefully secured from fraying by a row of button-hole or
cording stitches, according to the engraving, and that before
you cut away the stuff beyond.
40
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
How to festoon the scallops (fig. 92). — Make a double
tracing of running stitches — the one completing the other —
in the middle of the stuff to be festooned and then simply
carrj^ the threads over the clusters of threads. The button-
hole or festooning stitches must be executed over each thread
of the stuff and are set in very close rows over the disengaged
clusters, see fig. 92. When the scallops are finished, you cut
away the stuff' beyond.
How to cord the scallops (fig. 93). — To make corded
scallops it is equally advisable to begin by making a tracing.
Moreover, to give greater relief to the edges, you should lay
Fig. 94. Border iu cut stitch and straight stitch.
Materials: I,inen of medium coarseness, in cream, D-M-C Flax lace thread
and D-M-C Special stranded cotton, in white.
down a coarse thread, strongly twisted, over which you make
the cording stitches. In the engravings figs. 92 and 93, the
button-hole and cording stitches are only made in the stuff
over four threads, but you cover six threads for the clusters of
disengaged threads ; at the corners you round the passing from
one part to the other by means of a few auxiliary stitches.
Border in cut stitch and straight stitch (fig. 94). — The
pattern, worked on the linen, is finished off top and bottom
by a row of square stitches openworked, fig. 5, on three threads
of the stuff' ; by means of the same stitch, executed in a diagonal
line, the inside of the border is divided into squares and triangles.
You begin by filling the triangles with a pattern in horizontal
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
41
Fig. 95. Border. Norwegian work "Hardanger".
Materials: Coarse linen with double threads, in cream, D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5
and the scalloped openwork in D-M-C Flax lace thread No. 25, in white.
straight stitch, then you cut out the
threads for the openwork figure and
overcast the edges, see fig. 63.
The clusters of threads are to be
overcast so as to form them into bars,
see fig. 35, then you ornament the inside
with a wheel in darning stitch, and in
the eight empty squares touching this
wheel you embroider little crosses, con-
sisting of two overcast bars intercrossed, J^^f ^^^ ^Snf tfctars
see also figs. 72 and 73. in darning stitch
., and the spiders in loop stitch.
With regard to materials, use a Detail of the border fig. 95.
3*
42
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
Fig. 97. Border in cut slilcli witli ground of corded bars
and pattern reserved in linen stitcli.
Materials : I^inen of medium coarseness, in cream,
D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread, in Indigo 334
and Corn yellow 711.
lightly twisted thread, D-M-C Flax lace thread (Lin pour
dentelles), for the cut stitch work; a loose thread, D-M-C
Special stranded cotton (Mouline special), for the straight stitch.
;:•.;;:;.;:- j: ■ . Border. Nor-
AA^egian work
"Har danger"
(figs. 95 and 96).
This border re-
presents the Nor-
wegian drawn
thread work
known under the
name of "Har-
danger". For the
ground take a
coarse cream-co-
loured linen, and
for the embroi-
dery in straight
stitch D-M-C
Pearl cotton (Co-
ton perle) No. 5,
in white ; for the
bars in darning
stitch and for the
loop stitch use
D-M-C Flax lace
thread (I^in pour
dentelles) No. 25.
Begin by embroi-
dering the out-
lin.es in flat stitch
with ornamental
stitches over four
threads of the
stuff ; then onlj^
when all the outlines are done, remove carefully with a sharp
pair of scissors, the threads for the openwork parts, contrary
to what is done in the case of drawn thread work on linen
properly speaking, where you cut the threads first and then
embroider the outlines. Fig. 96 shews how to make the bars
Fig. gS. AA'orking of the linen stitch
to reserve a pattern in the cut stitch.
(Detail of fig. 97.)
DRAWN THREAD WORK ~ 1st SERIES
43
Fig. 99. Border in cut stitch with ground of corded bars and pattern
reserved in darning stitch.
Materials: Fine linen, in white, DMC Pearl cotton No. 5, in Red brown 923
and D-M-C Special stranded cotton No. 25, in Grey blue 593.
in darning stitch and
to place the spiders
in loop stitch.
Border in cut
stitch with ground &
of corded bars and g^
pattern reserved
in linen stitch (figs
97 and 98). — There
are a great man},
embroideries in cut
stitch where the pat-
tern is what is ter-
med "reserved". This
means the pattern being left bare, in the midst of an em-
broidered ground. It is verj' difficult especially when the
t-^T^
Fit? 100 W orkmt, ct tHe dainiii^ ^titLh
to reserve a pattern in the cut stitch.
(DetaU of fig. 99.)
44
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
Fig. loi. Border in cut stitch. Italian Rctioella stj^le.
Materials : Fine linen, in white, D-M-C Flax thread for knitting and crochet,
D-M-C Alsatia or D-M-C Alsatian thread, in white.
pattern is at all elaborate and made up of little details to
cut away the threads of the linen without injuring the linen
foundation. It is best there-
fore in such cases to withdraw
the threads indicated by the
pattern throughout the whole
surface and after finishing all
the bars draw in with the
needle the threads that are
wanting in the stuff. The way
to remake the linen ground
is shewn in fig. 98, where,
more clearly to explain how
the threads intersect each
other, the threads of the stuff
are printed light and those
introduced for the linen stitch,
dark. If combined with cross-
stitch embroidery, the little
bars should be of the same
colour as the embroidery.
The actual pattern in linen
stitch may be worked in
white or in ecru, according
to the ground on which you
Fjg.
102. Detail for the -nurking
of border fig. loi.
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
45
are embroidering. As regards the execution of the ground
see figs. 35 and 72 to 77.
Border in cut stitch Avith ground of corded bars and
pattern reserved in darning stitch(figs. gg and 100). — The
stitch shewn in fig. 100 is easier and pleasanter to work than the
preceding one. It is done in the same way as the darning stitch
described in fig. 38, that is by taking up the bars of the stuff
Fig. 103. Border in cut stitch. Greek Reticella style.
Materials: Fine linen, in white, D-M-C Flax thread for knitting and crochet,
D-M-C Alsatia or D-M-C Alsatian thread, in white or ecru.
as many times as you have dropped them. Use a loose thread
in Grey blue for this filling and a more twisted coloured thread
for the bars, Red brown in this case. The way to make the
stitches may be clearly seen from the engraving. Here also the
bars must be made first and the pattern only filled in afterwards.
The details of fig. 100 render further explanations super-
fluous. If the work is done on a white ground and is to be
added to a white embroidery or stuff, a very refined effect will
46
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
be obtained by emplojdng cream thread for the bars and snow-
white thread for filling in the pattern which should shew up
very distinctly from the ground.
Border in cut stitch. Italian Reticella style (figs. loi
and 102). — The variety of stitches used in this work makes
it resemble lace; it is likewise known by the name of "Reticella
drawn thread work". The course of the work is explained in
.'^-;r ^
W^^''^^^''"^^^^£^^i^^'^.'^^^^^f4^tp} ' '''ri''&SE;V
Materials
Fig. 104. Small table-cloth. Mexican drawn thread work.
Fine linen, in white, D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread No.
D-M-C Alsatia No. 30 or D-M-C Alsatian thread ^.o. 30, in white.
30,
fig. 102. You draw out ten threads each way, leaving six threads
to serve as foundation for the bars. The threads of the cut
edges are covered by a close overcasting, as in fig. 63 and a
rolled hem borders the pattern top and bottom.
The rings in festoon stitch are made over three auxiliary
threads, stretched from one bar to the other when they
are half finished. You begin the wheels or spiders in the
corner of a square, and finish them, as the arrow indicates,
at the same place.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
47
Border in cut stitch. Greek Reticella style (fig. 103).
After all the preceding explanations, there can be no difficulty
in copying this classical design of Greek origin.
In the original we counted 48 threads drawn out for the
big squares leaving six for the bars.
For the narrow border we counted 21 threads removed
both ways. The cut edges are corded, between the two edges of
stitches four threads of linen remain forming a narrow insertion
over which a cross stitch seam is made as seen in fig. 6. The
long bars that cross
each other in the
second square are
made with a double
festoon, ornamen-
ted with picots (*).
Small table-
cloth. Mexican
drawn thread
work (figs. 104
and 105). — Our
engraving fig. 104
represents a parti-
cular kind of open-
work on linen very
popular in S. Ame-
rica, principall}^ in
the Spanish speak-
ing part of the
country. It is
commonly called
"Mexican drawn
thread work". The following is a descri23tion of our model.
After securing the inside edges by means of button-hole
stitches, see fig. 62, draw out seven times twenty threads
of the stuff both ways, leaving six intervals of twelve threads,
so as to get a web with large empty spaces.
Then begin the embroidery at the bottom in the left hand
corner, by a long diagonal stitch, to the centre of the first
square of stuff, returning to the starting-point with a second
05. Working of the openwork ground
of the small table-cloth fig. 104.
(*) See "Point lace", "Embroidery on Net, 1st and Ilnd Series", and
"Encyclopedia of Needlework" by Th. de Dillmont.
48
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st SERIES
diagonal stitch ; at tlie tliird diagonal stitch, you connect tlie
two stretched threads top and bottom by a festoon stitch. All
the empty spaces are successively filled in this manner by
three long diagonal stitches from left to right. The second row
is begun at the bottom in the right hand corner and worked
like the preceding row only that you connect the stitches
Fig. 1 06. Small table-cloth. Danish drawn thread work ,,Hedebo".
Materials: I^ineu of medium coarseness, in white, D-MC Flax thread for knitting
and crochet No. 30 or D-M-C Alsatia No. 40, in white.
together wherever the threads cross each other. (See the ex-
planatory detail, fig. 105.) When the whole ground is covered
with diagonal threads in this manner, you work the little leaves
in darning stitch, hiding the thread on the wrong side, at the
back of the squares of stuff. Lastly you add the rings made
of foundation threads and knots in interverted chain stitch.
Those that touch the little leaves in darning stitch are made
in a single row; the others, the larger ones that surround the
DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
49
squares of stuff without ornament, take two rows. For the
outside decoration, leave a strip of stuff about 2 inches
wide ornamented by an openwork insertion, see fig. 26, then
having edged the outside border of the linen strip with
the stitch fig. 3, draw out the horizontal threads to a
depth of il inches to form the fringes.
Fig. 107. A quarter of the small table-cloth fig. io6. Reduced by one third.
Small table-cloth. Danish drawn thread work
"Hedebo" (figs. 106 and 107). — This is a specimen of drawn
work of Danish origin, called "Hedebo", a small table-cloth
adorned with triangles of handsome openwork, bordered with
a narrow insertion and needle-made lace.
For the foundation for the triangles, cut twelve times
twenty-eight threads of the stuff, leaving eleven intervals of
50 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES
twelve threads, and then festoon the edges. The web of thread
is to be converted into bars in darning stitch, see also figs, "^y
and 79, and the actual pattern is to be executed bit by bit as
you complete the bars. The model shews three big stars ; the
two side ones consist of eight triangles in darning stitch, worked
over a thread stretched diagonally round a centre formed of
four spiders ; the corner star consists of four little pyramids
and semicircles in button-hole stitch ornarhented with picots,
besides different spiders formed by overcast bars.
For the small insertion draw out fifteen threads of the stuff ;
the disengaged threads are connected by overcasting stitches,
as shewn in the engraving. For the lace we refer our workers
to the chapter on Needle-made laces in the "Encyclopedia of
Needlework" by Th. de Dillmont, figs. 958 and 959.
In addition to the plates in this album, a large selection of
patterns for drawn thread work will be found in the following
publications of the D-M-C Fibrary : Drawn thread work, Ilnd
Series, Openwork Embroideries and Works of various kinds.
Those who wish for more complete instructions as regards the execution of the
patterns contained in DRAWN THREAD WORK
or the materials mentioned in the same, liave only to adress themselves
to the firm of
COMPTOIR ALSACIEN DE BRODERIE
anct TH. DE DILLMONT, MULHOUSE (France)
where the necessary information will be immediately supplied.
Drawn Thread Work
I St Series
Plates I to XX.
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate I:
Ground of wide and narrow stripes for curtains and window-
blinds, worked on coarse tamm}' cloth
with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3 and
D-M-C Knotting cotton (Fil a pointer) Nos. 10 and 20.
(vSee explanatory details, ligs. 10, 15 and 18.)
Count 9 horizontal threads for the single rows and 15 for
the double rows of scallops in flat stitch embroidered with
D-:M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3.
Draw out 10 horizontal threads in the big border for the
narrow insertions, 28 for the wide one and 16 for the insertion
in the narrow border.
The interverted clusters consist of three threads of the stuff.
The thread that is run through the wide insertions is a cord
of two threads of D-M-C Knotting cotton (Fil a pointer) No. 10,
twisted together, the one that runs through the narrow inser-
tions is a cord made of two threads of D-il-C Knotting cotton
(Fil a pointer) No. 20.
All rights reserved
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st Series
Tor working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODDFUS-MIECx & C'e, Societe anonyme
MTTLHUTTSE-BKLFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate II:
Ground with border for little table-cloths and traj'-cloths,
worked on linen of medium coarseness
with D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25
and D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) No. 25.
(See explanatory details, figs. 4, 6, 46, 50, 63, 84 and 85).
Embroider the straight outside lines over 3 threads of the
stuff with two threads of D-M-C Special stranded cotton
(Mouline special) No. 25.
Draw out 5 threads for the narrow insertions in serpentine
lines and 18 threads for the wide insertion ; the clusters are
formed of 4 threads of the stuff. In the inside of the sc^uares
draw out 4 threads both ways and leave twice 4 intermediate
threads.
Do the needlework with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. 20, with the exception of the connect-
ing together of the clusters which is done with D-]\I-C vSpecial
stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25.
All rights reserved
Plate II
DRAWX THREAD WORK — ist Series
>-v5«(,-:;~>5^
inr5::a:::;-.Tr
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOEEFUS-MIEG & C'^ vSociete anonyme
MULIIOUSE-BELFOKT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate III:
Border with knotted fringe for chamber-towels, dresser-cloths
and sideboard covers, worked
on linen of medium coarseness with D-!!M-C vSpecial crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) Nos. 3 and 20.
(See explanatory details, figs. 25, 50 and 84.)
Embroider the straight lines over 3 threads of the stuff with
D-]M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20.
Draw out 8 threads for the narrow insertions, the clusters
of which number 6 threads, and 24 threads for the wide in-
sertion in which the clusters are formed of 3 threads of the
stuff. The two rows of dots embroidered with D-M-C Special
crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3 take 12 horizontal
threads, the border turned to the fringe also takes 12 threads.
The needlework is done with D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. 20.
All rights reserved
Plate in
DRAWN THRPZAD WORK
1st .Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOLLFUS-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme
MULHOUSE-EELFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate IV:
Part of a sofa- veil, worked on coarse tammy cloth with double
threads with D-M-C v'^pecial crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Nos. i, 2 and 10.
(See explanatory details, tigs. 5, 30, ^J and 71.)
Embroider the rows of four-sided stitches over 3 threads
of the stuff with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) Xo. 10.
Draw out twice 7 threads for the little crossed insertions, and
leave 5 threads between for the strip of tammy cloth to be
covered with vertical stitches made with D-M-C Special crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) No. i.
Embroider the triangular frame with D-AI-C Special crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 2.
Draw out 14 threads for the empty squares and leave 6
threads for the intermediate bars.
Do the needlework with D-il-C .Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. 10.
All rii-hts l■ese^^■ed
PUac IV
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
l-l^i^^^^^^i^*'
11
< .! »
» . »
' « ,! r
• t , y
mMm
►i^,V»«>--v<^^:;'^;^.'',;'-'-''''^'' ''"''■'
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOLLFUv^-MIEG & C'^, .Societe anonyme
MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate V:
Border with corner, for table-napkins and tray-cloth,
worked on coarse tammy cloth with double threads with
D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special)
Nos. 2, 10 and 20.
(See explanatory details, figs. 8, '^'j , 90 and 91.)
Embroider the scalloped outside edge in darning stitch with
D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 2 over
7 threads of the stuff.
Draw out twice 16 horizontal threads leaving 6 threads of the
stuff between. Draw out 16 vertical threads leaving alternately
6 and 12 threads between.
Do the needlework with D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 10 and the connecting outlines in
Russian stitch with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) Xo. 20.
In the inside, leave an interval of 10 threads, draw out twice
2 threads leaving 3 threads between.
Make the openwork seam over clusters of 4 threads.
All rights reserved
Plate V
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st Series
mi
'-w; -»--T?t; : : ; : : :::;::;••■-::•:;::::•■;
^'SftW'^t ■ ,,. ,• ; . ,. ,■ .•; (; ;; ).. 1. ) >,
■:.:( f//->'}y''*''-Jq:-''m\'\>'" ;■•' ■■■■',> ','*(•' '■'.''■/.■.■I
9'
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODDFUvS-MIEG & O^ , Societe anonyme
.MULHOUSE-BELPORT-P.iRIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate VI:
Four rivieres for toilette articles, worked on coarse linen
with double threads with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle)
Xo. 3 and D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton
(Cordonuet special) Nos. 2 and 3.
(See explanatory details, tigs. 5, 6, 7, 10, 22, 27, 31, 37 and 38.)
First riviere — Draw out 8 threads in the middle, lea\-e
2 threads top and bottom for the two rows of crossed stitches
and draw out i thread.
Second riviere — Draw out 14 threads in the middle, leave
3 threads top and bottom for the rows of four-sided stitches
worked over 3 threads in height and 2 threads in width and
draw out I thread.
Third riviere — L~)raw out 10 threads in the middle, leave
2 threads top and bottom for the two rows of four-sided stitches
and draw oiit i thread.
I'ourth riviere — Draw out 18 threads in the middle, leaA'e
3 threads on each side, then draw out 3 threads at the top
and bottom, lea\-e 3 more threads and draw out i thread.
The crossed stitches are done over 2 threads in width and
3 threads in height.
Use the D-;\I-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special)
No. 3 for the lace stitches, the D-]\I-C vSpecial crochet cotton
No. 2 for the \^aA-ed line in the third riviere and the D-M-C
Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3 for the darned motifs in
the fourth ri\-iere.
All riss'hts reserved
I'latc VI
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
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^'■iri-»^**-t,4.-*** a.'«-«^»-*-*-** •^»'ih-|h|ri--t-*-«r»4. A-lKIMHt-ft-^-i-ft a.-*"«,»-»4"»-(M
ii.'V.' «:*■-«:» ••*.«.«.• *-• v.o « • V « V •'« « » 9 ■:«-•,•'« v.* «.« 4 9 f;* » « 9 v,«-v^ « v IT
t.-»HM. • *» * «-»#»"»*^ »«-»»**> «.«.♦» ». «-^ •'••.^i-*^** «»• »***«' <»l
(T;--;
tt^tt^'^
t.-^^ A-t^. S—t ^.^ »■
-J-*.*--*-^-* >-*--*..*-*-* .4-4..*-+ -V*-* *- 4- »-»^»^-fc.t,^*-t-4. *-*-»-*
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODU'UvS-MIEG & C'<", Societe anoiiyme
mUUKII'Sr.-BELFDRT-PARIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate VII:
Two borders for curtains and sash-blinds,
worked on coarse tammy cloth with D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Nos. 3 and 20 and D-M-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) No. 3.
(See explanatory details, figs. 22, '^'] and 38.)
First border — Draw out 24 threads for the wide riviere,
leave 10 threads, then draw out 12 threads top and bottom.
The clusters number 3 threads and are held together with
D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20.
Work aU the other stitches with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton
perle) No. 3.
Second border — Draw out 15 threads for the wide riviere,
leave 7 threads top and bottom, draw out 8 threads, leave
7 threads and draw out 9 more threads. The clusters consist
of 3 threads and are fastened with D-M-C Special crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20.
Work the wheels with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cor-
donnet special) No. 3, all the other stitches with D-M-C Pearl
cotton (Coton perle) No. 3.
All rights reserved
rune VII
DRAWN THREAD WORK — ist Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOU.FUS-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme
MULHUUSF.-BI'lLFORT -PARIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate VIII:
Three borders for table- and house-linen, worked on
linen of medium coarseness with D-]M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 3 and D-M-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) Xo. 3.
(See explanatory details, figs. 5, 22, 23, 37, 38, 63, 81, iiZ,
84 and 85.)
First border — \\'ork the rows of vertical and four-sided
stitches o\-er 3 horizontal threads. Draw out 35 horizontal
threads, then in the direction of the length leave alternately
28 threads and cut 8 threads.
Second border — Work the rows of vertical stitches over
4 horizontal threads, the rows of four-sided ones o^•er 3 hori-
zontal and 4 vertical threads. Draw out 45 horizontal threads,
then in the direction of the length, lea\-e alternately ^2 threads
and cut 20.
Third border — "Work the rows of \-ertical stitches over 4
horizontal threads, the rows of four-sided ones over 3 hori-
zontal and 4 \-ertical threads. Draw out 60 horizontal threads,
and then in the direction of the length, leave alternately 40
threads and cut 25.
Do all the work ^^■ith D-^M-C Special crochet cotton (Cor-
donnet special) X^'o. 3, excepting the thick parts in darning
stitch which are done with D-]\rC Pearl cotton (Coton perle)
Xo. 3.
All rights reserved
Plate VIII
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODDI'UvS-MIEG & C^^, Societe anonjaiie
IMULIIUUSE-BELFORT- PARIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate IX:
Two grounds for cushions, pincushions, chair-backs
and table-centres,
worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-M-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) No. 8 and D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. lo.
(vSee explanatorj' details, figs. 38, 63, 83, 84 and 85.)
First ground — Do the framing of the figures with D-M-C
Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8 over 3 threads of the stuff
and draw out 20 threads both ways inside the squares, leaving
an interval of 8 threads between the figures. Work the orna-
mental figures with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) No. 10.
Second ground — Do the framing of the figures with D-M-C
Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8 over 3 threads of the stuft".
For the big empty space in the middle, draw out 12 threads
both ways, leave 3 threads between and draw out 5 threads.
Do the ornamental figures with D-^M-C Special crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 10.
AH rights reserved
Plate IX
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st Series
f-^^^A
■^2S?^.- "^^^srEir- i?5*nF jEias-' .c"K-::' miy-cu- iS;^-3£-
iiasii
m
r-sffl^
?-i^kS^:vi
"ts,m^^
•^«#W»^'^
>'*"'~-"'""'''ii± « -SIa
^^
l'"or working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOLIJ<'UvS-MlEG & C'^ vSociete anonyme
MTTLirOITSE-BELFftRT- PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate X:
Ground for cushions and chair-backs, worked on coarse linen
with double threads with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. 3.
(See explanatory details, figs. 3, 6, 23, 37 and 38.)
!Leave 12 threads for the big squares of linen, draw out 3
threads for the narrow insertions, leave 3 for the strips of
stuff and draw out g for the wide insertions.
The clusters consist of 2 threads of the stuff.
Do all the embroidery with D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. 3.
All rights ruscrvud
Plate X
DRAWN THREAD WORK — ist Series
vtl
•■^4E."Cfc<.r.'^A*-.'
Mmmm
^p.<m0''-'
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODLI'UvS-MlEG & C'e, Societe anonyme
MULHODSE-EELFORT-PARIS
iL^
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate XI:
Border with corner for table-cloth and napkins,
worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-^I-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) Nos. 5 and S and
D-^I-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special)
Nos. I and 5.
(vSee explanatory details, tigs. 10, 35, 38 and 63.)
Do the rows of flat stitches that border the work with D-;\I-C
Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Xo. S o\'er 3 threads of the stuff.
Draw out 12 threads of the stuff both ways for the openwork
parts and leave 12 for the squares of linen in which you em-
broider the little squares with D-;M-C vSpecial crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 5.
Take D-^I-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. i
for the thread that runs through the interverted clusters, com-
posed of 4 threads each, and D-]\I-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 5 for the threads that form the skeleton
of the flowers in darning stitch, which are worked in D-M-C
Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Xo. 5.
All riehls reserved
Plate XI
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODLFUS-MIEG & C^e, Societe anonyme
MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate XII:
Insertion and scalloped edge for table-linen, worked
on linen of medium coarseness with D-^I-C Pearl cotton (Coton
perle) No. 8 and D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Nos. 3 and 10.
(See explanatory details, figs. 30, 35, 38, 63, 67 and 93.)
Insertion — ]*Iake the straight rows over 3 threads of the
stuff, with D-:\I-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8. Leave 24
threads for the squares in the middle of the border, then draw
out 24 threads abo\-e and below and leave 12 ; in length, leave
24 threads and cut 24 alternately.
Count 12 threads for the middle clusters and 6 each time
for the outside clusters.
Take I)-;\I-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special)
No. ID for the threads to be stretched across the empty spaces
and D-;\I-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8 for the parts in
darning stitch.
Scalloped edge — Work the right row o\-er 3 threads of the
stuff, leave b threads, then draw out 5 times 12 threads and
leave four times 12 ; in length, leave 12 threads and cut 12
alternately. Work the scalloped edge alternately over the
clusters of 6 threads and over 3 threads of the stuff, with D-M-C
Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8.
;\Iake the loop stitches o\-er the clusters of 6 threads with
I)-]M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3.
Pea^•e 18 threads at the top, then draw out 8 for the insertion
of little bars ; these latter are corded over 6 threads with
D-;\I-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 10.
All rii;lit^ reserved
Plate XII
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOLDFU.S-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme
MTTLHOUSr;-BF-LFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate XIII:
vScalloped border with knotted fringe for table-cloth and
chamber-towels, worked on coarse linen with double threads
with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5 and
D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 10
(vSee explanatory detail, fig. 30.)
Work all the lines of knotted stitch over a quadruple thread
of the stuff, the stars over 3 threads with D-M-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) No. 5.
Draw out 5 threads for all the openwork parts, leave 9
threads for the linen sc^uares and 3 for the big scallops of the
edge. Count 3 c|uadruple threads for the clusters which are
knotted with D-M-C .Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special)
No. ID.
All rights reserved
Plate XIII
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
^.
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOI.DFUS-MIEG & O'^ , Societe anoiiyme
MULHOUSr.-BKLFI )RT-P.\RIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate XIV:
Gromid for cushions, chair-backs and work-bags, worked
on linen of medium coarseness with D-]*I-C vSpecial crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. 5.
(See explanatory details, figs. 5, 22, ^'^, 82 and 86.)
Work the two rows of four-sided stitches over 4 threads of
the stuff.
Draw out both ways '^2 threads of the stuft' for the openwork
parts and leave 32 for the linen scpiares.
Do all the embroidery with D-;\rC Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 5.
All riiihts reserved
Plate XIV
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st vSenes
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOLDFUvS-MlEG & C'^, Societe anonyme
JIULHOUSE-BKLFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate XV:
\\'ide border for hangings and floorcloth,
worked on coarse linen with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 2 and D-M-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) No. 5.
(See explanatory details, figs. 3, 22, 2q, 38 and 62.)
Dra\\- out 6 horizontal threads of the stuff for the Greek
openwork, the clusters of which number 3 quadruple threads;
the whole border takes 30 \-ertical threads. Leave 6 threads on
each side, then draw out 2 for the little open rounds \Ahich
are also worked with 3 quadruple threads. Leave 4 threads,
draw out 3 and finish the edges by making clusters of 2
quadruple threads.
Use D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5 the same shade
as the stuff for finishing oft' the edges and for the little open
rounds, and D-;\LC Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special)
No. 2 for all the other stitches.
All rights reserved
Plate XV
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st vSeries
rf
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODDFUv'^-MIECt & C"5, Societe anonynie
MULIIOUSE-BELFORT-PAEIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate XVI:
Two borders with corners, for table-cover, worked
on coarse linen with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) No. i and D-M-C Pearl cotton
(Coton perle) No. 5.
(.See explanatory details, figs. 3, 29, 62 and 66.)
First border — Draw out twice 2 threads for the outside
and inside insertions, the clusters of which consist of 3 threads,
and leave 2 threads between.
Count 53 threads of the stuff for the inside of the border ;
in the openworked lozenges cut five times 3 threads, leave 6
times 3 threads, at the corners cut 2 threads more.
For the centre of the little ornamental figures cut 2 threads
both ways. Finish off the edges and knot the clusters in the
little insertions with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5,
the shade of the stuff.
Do the lace stitches and the embroidery with D-il-C Special
crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. i.
Second border — Draw out 3 times 5 cjuadruple threads
and leave twice 3 threads for the square figures with button-
holed edges.
The linen border numbers 10 threads.
Draw out 3 threads for the ladder insertions, the clusters
in which consist of 2 quadruple threads, there will remain 2
threads of the stuff between the 2 little insertions.
All rights reserved
Plate XVI
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st vSeries
®^^^|inimitiH!ini!ij5i!iiniiiiiii{»mii>i-iniinin5inminTi^
1 itr, ^•ffl^a^g^'^ sb**
; s*i^^4
For working, t:se the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODDFU.S-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme
MTJLHOUSK-BKLrORT-PARIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate XVII:
Two borders for trimming articles of dress,
worked on fine tammy cloth with D-^I-C Pearl cotton (Coton
perle) Nos. 5 and 8.
(See explanatory details, figs. 8, 9, 22, 38, 50, 81, 82 and 84.)
Narrow border — Work the two rows of finishing-off
stitches over 6 horizontal threads and 4 vertical ones with
D-]M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5.
Draw out 40 threads for the openworked insertion ; the
needlework is done with D-il-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8,
excepting the little horizontal bars in darning stitch, which are
worked with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5.
AMde border — Do the two rows of finishing-off stitches
and the supplementary row of the hem of 6 horizontal and 4
vertical threads, with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5.
Draw out 75 threads for the wide insertion and 8 for the
narrow ones, the intermediate strips of stuff number 12 threads,
the needlework is done with D-i\I-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle)
No. 8.
All rights reserved
Plate XVII
<4««<549«f««l«1l«lf«««4€€^
W4
.« I&i! £ ■•k'^ A^'A' ^< AS A -A- A?-&i a!' A« A ^ ^- ^ lA'-A'^ '^ "■^
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOIJJ'US-MIEG & C'f, v'^ociete anonyme
MULIIOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS
Directions for working the patterns
on Plate XVIII:
Border and square for table-linen, worked
on linen of medium coarseness with D-M-C v'^pecial crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3 and D-M-C Pearl
cotton (Coton perle) No. 5.
(See explanatory details, tigs. 22, 3S and 63.)
Border — Do the framing of the sc[uares over 4 threads of
the stuff and lea\-e 56 vertical threads between the figures.
In the inside, draw out each way three times S threads and
lea\-e twice 8 threads.
Beave 12 threads of the stuff abo\-e and below, draw out 3
threads for the narrow insertions, the clusters of which consist
of 4 threads.
vScjuare figures — A^'ork the framing of the squares over 3
threads of the stuff with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle)
No. 5 ; leave an interval of 8 threads between the squares.
Do the work with D-^BC Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) No. 3, excepting the parts in darning stitch which are
to be done in D-;\BC Bearl cotton (Coton joerle) No. 5.
All riyhts rL'Scrvcd
Platr xviir
DRAWN THREAD WORK
1st vSenes
LW^-'f
m
iiipiipippiisiii:
«*yi-«li:il!i!iili
1^^
•1,
'-■■■ : 'J.
a/:-
^wm^i^
f.^-
6 ';;;-:-?!*lB0r ■ S
W««T.;;t;.;;;|7 -
\M."f}^'^-y}
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODLFUS-MIEG c& C'^, Societe anonyme
mulhousi:-bi:lfort-paris
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate XIX:
Big ground for carpet, bed- and cradle-spreads, &c.,
worked on coarse linen with D-M-C Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) No. i and D-J\rC Pearl
cotton (Coton perle) Nos. i and 3 and D-M-C vSpecial stranded
cotton (Mouline special) No. 25.
(See explanatory details, figs. 87, 88 and 89.)
Draw out 14 threads for the large openwork parts and leave
28 threads for the linen squares, the edges of which are finished
off with D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25,
with stitches over 2 quadruple threads.
Work the edge of the little squares, for which you cut 6
threads inside both ways, in plaited stitch with D-M-C Pearl
cotton (Coton perle) No. 3, over a quadruple thread. Do the
leaves in darning stitch with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle)
No. I, the spiders in the middle of the figures and the isolated
loop stitches with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet
special) No. i, and the intermediate figures with 10 strands of
D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25 in the
same shade as the stuff.
AIJ rights reserved
Plate XIX
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DODDFUS-MIEG & O^, .Societe anonyme
MULHOUSE-BELPORT-PARIS
Directions for working the pattern
on Plate XX:
Triple border for table and bed-linen, worked on
linen of medium coarseness with D-]\I-C .Special crochet cotton
(Cordonnet special) Xo. 40.
(See explanatory details, figs. 35 and 38.)
Draw out 50 threads of the stuff for the wide insertion and
2^ for the two narrow insertions lea\-ing five times 13 stitches
between each.
Finish off the edges with button-hole stitches connecting
clusters of 3 threads each.
Do the whole of the work with D-M-C Special crochet
cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 40.
All rights restrved
Plate XX
DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series
For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads
DOIJJ'US-MIKG & Cie, Societe anonyme
MULIIOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS
D'M-C LIBRARY
In the endeavour to develop the taste for fancy needlework
and to make better known the use of the numerous articles
made especially for sewing, embroidery, crochet work,
knitting, &c., by the Societe anonyme Doi.i,Fus-MiEG & Ci",
the Company has published a series of works, which together
form a complete library of information dealing with every
known kind of needlework.
Although these publications surpass all that has ever been
done in this way before — by their artistic value, the choice
of the designs, and the attention applied to their execution —
yet, they are sold at a price quite inferior to their real value.
They could not have been produced at such favorable prices,
had it not been for the numerous editions published and the
aim they are intended to serve.
Each album is edited in several languages and is composed
of a series of unpublished and much varied designs accompanied
by explanatory texts.
Ladies who do not find in our assortment the languages
with which they are acquainted, will nevertheless be able to
use successfully the albums of the D-M-C Library. Owing to
the clearness as well as the perfection of the designs, the text
becomes a secondary question and it will always be easy to
execute most of the patterns shown in these albums without
having need of the text.
Further on will be found a description of these publications,
which can be obtained of booksellers, mercers and at needlework
depots or direct from the Comptoir AlsaciEn de BrodEriE,
anc* Th. dE Dielmont, Muehouse (France).
List of the publications
OF THE
D • M • C L.I BRARY
* Encyclopedia of Needlework. A handsome volume in-16^0
of about 800 pages, illustrated by 1107 engravings and
13 coloured plates. English binding. Gilt top.
* The ABC of sewing. Pamphlet in-8°, 12 pages of text,
23 explanatory illustrations and a plate of letters.
* The ABC of knitting. Pamphlet in-80, 16 pages of text,
17 explanatory illustrations.
Albums for Cross Stitch Embroidery, 1st, Ilnd and
Ilird Series (Albums de Broderies au Point de
Croix). 1st Series: 32 plates. Ilnd Series: 40 plates with
coloured designs. Ilird Series : 40 plates. In-4°.
* Cross Stitch • New Designs, 1st Series. Album in-8°,
containing 24 coloured plates, composed of grounds,
borders, &c.
* Cross Stitch ■ New Designs, Ilnd, Ilird and IVth Series.
Three albums in large octavo, each containing 20 coloured
plates.
* Cross Stitch ■ New Designs, Vth Series. Album in
large octavo, containing 16 coloured plates of borders,
backgrounds, &c.
* Marking Stitch, 1st Series. Album in-8° of 12 coloured plates.
* Marking Stitch, Ilnd, Ilird and IVth Series. Three
albums in-8° each containing 16 coloured plates.
(*) The publications marked with an asterisk (*) are edited in English.
IJST OF THE PUBI,ICATIONS OF THE D-M-C I<IBRARY
The Embroiderer's Alphabet. An album iii-8°, containing
82 coloured plates composed of alphabets, monograms
and patterns for counted stitch embroideries, followed
by ID plates of monograms and scallops with tracings
for white embroidery.
* The same album is also edited in-i6™°.
* Monograms and Alphabets for combination. Album in-8°,
31 plates of alphabets for combination and monograms.
Alphabets and Monograms , 1st Series (Alphabets et Mono-
grammes). Album in-4°, 60 plates with explanatory text.
* Alphabets and Monograms, Ilnd Series. Album in large
octavo, containing 17 plates and an explanatory text.
Motifs for Embroideries, 1st and ^ Ilnd Series (Motifs
pour Broderies). Two albums in-8°, each containing
32 coloured plates, composed of various designs for tapestry
and embroidery.
* Motifs for Embroideries, Ilird and IVth Series. Two
albums in large octavo, each containing 20 coloured plates
of various designs.
* Motifs for Embroideries, Vth Series. Album in large
octavo, 15 coloured plates, a text and a series of drawings.
-X- Motifs for Embroideries, 6th Series. Album in-8°,
containing 16 coloured plates, composed of various designs
in modern style.
* Colbert Embroideries. Album in large octavo, 16 plates
printed in colour and a series of drawings.
* Czecho-Slovakian Embroideries. Album in large octavo,
20 plates printed in colour and a series of drawings.
* Jugoslavian Embroideries, 1st and Ilnd Series. Two
albums in large octavo, each containing 20 plates printed
in colour.
•X- Turkish Embroideries. Album in large octavo, 24 plates
printed in colour, a text and a series of drawings.
* Bulgarian Embroideries. Album in large octavo, 16 plates
printed in colour, consisting of 88 patterns.
(*) The publications marked with an asterisk (^) are edited in English.
I,IST OF THE PUBLICATIONS OF THE D-M-C LIBRARY
* Morocco Embroideries. Album in large octavo, i8 plates
printed in colour, composed of 6i models of borders, grounds
and motifs.
* Assisi Embroideries. Album in-4°, containing 24 plates
printed in colour and a text with explanatory iigures.
* Ecclesiastical vestments and Altar linen. Album in
large octavo, containing, printed in colour, 10 plates and
various detailed figures for three sets of vestments, a
dalmatic with deacon's stole, a cope, a humeral veil, an
altar hanging and sacred linen, as well as an explanatory
text. 6 supplementary sheets, with plans, designs and
tracings for the execution of the articles.
* Irish Crochet Lace. Album in large octavo, 52 pages of
text, 7 plates of patterns and tracings on linen.
Crochet Work, 1st and Ilnd Series (Le Crochet). 1st Series :
8 plates composed of 64 patterns and explanatory text.
Ilnd Series : 8 plates composed of 57 patterns and
explanatory text. In-4°.
* Crochet Work, Ilird Series. Album in large octavo,
containing 13 plates, 70 pages of explanatory text and
numerous figures.
* Crochet Work, IVth Series. Album in large octavo,
containing 11 plates composed of 57 patterns and
65 pages of text.
* Crochet Work, Vth Series (Coarse crochet). Album in-4°,
9 principal plates, 13 supplementary plates and text.
* Crochet Work, Vlth Series. Album in-8°, 8 plates composed
of 60 models of lace edgings and narrow insertions.
Knitting, 1st and Ilnd Series (Le Tricot). 1st Series:
10 plates with 72 patterns and explanatory text. —
Ilnd Series : 10 plates with 63 patterns and explanatory
text. In-40.
* Knitting, Ilird Series. Album in-S°, containing 12 plates
composed of 46 knitting patterns accompanied by
56 pages of text.
(*) The publications marked with an asterisk (*> are edited in English.
I<IST OF THE rUBI^ICATIONS OF THE DMC I,IBRARY
-:«• Knitting, IVth Series. Album in-8o, containing 51 patterns,
with explanatory text. Additional leaflets showing finished
models.
French Net Work (Le Filet-Richelieu). Album in-40,
30 plates containing 171 patterns with explanatory text.
* Embroidery on Net (The Net Work), 1st Series. 26 pages
of text and 20 plates with various patterns. In-8°.
* Embroidery on Net, Ilnd Series. Album in-40, containing
59 models, a detailed text and explanatory figures.
* Filet-Guipure. Album in large octavo, containing 20 plates
with 68 patterns and a text with 17 explanatory figures.
Net Work Embroidery, 1st and Ilnd Series (La Broderie
sur Lacis). 1st Series: composed of 41 patterns. —
Ilnd Series : composed of 38 patterns. Both with explanatory
text. In-40.
((Macrame)) (Le Macrame). Album containing 32 plates,
composed of 188 patterns with explanatory text. In-4<'.
"■ Knotted Fringes. Album in-4°, containing upon 20 plates
20 patterns and a text with explanatory figures.
* Hardanger Embroideries, 1st Series. Album in large
octavo, containing 36 plates and a text with explanatory
figures.
-:j Hardanger Embroideries, Ilnd Series. Album in large
octavo, containing 25 plates and a text with explanatory
figures.
■H- Openwork Embroideries. Album in large octavo, composed
of 48 patterns and 10 pages of text.
-"- Drawn thread Work, 1st Series. Album in-8°, containing
50 pages of text with explanatory figures and 20 plates
of patterns.
* Drawn thread Work, Ilnd Series. Album in-80, consisting
of II pages of text with explanatory figures and 32 plates
of patterns.
Flat Stitch Embroidery (La Broderie au Passe).
Album in-4°, composed of 27 patterns, with tracings and
explanatory text.
(*) The publications marked with an asterisk (*) are edited in English.
LIST OF THB PUBI.ICATIONS OF THE D-M-C LIBRARY
* Embroidery on Tulle, 1st Series. Album in large octavo,
containing 24 plates, 8 coloured, and an explanatory text.
Motifs for Coptic Embroidery, 1st, Ilnd and Ilird Parts
(Motifs de Broderie copte). Each Part is composed
of 30 plates, one coloured, with explanatory text. In-4°.
Pillow Laces, 1st and Ilnd Series (Les Dentelles aux
Fuseaux). 1st Series, octavo volume, containing 184
pages of text, 8 plates with patterns of laces, and 55 tracings.
— Ilnd Series, album in large octavo, containing 58 pages
of text, 18 plates with 25 patterns, and 66 tracings.
* Needle-made Laces, 1st Series. Album in large octavo,
containing 15 plates, a series of patterns, and a text with
explanatory figures.
Point Lace (La Dentelle Renaissance). Album in-8°,
containing 76 pages of text with explanatory figures,
10 plates without text and 10 patterns.
* Teneriffe Lace Work. Album in-8°, of 20 plates of patterns
and a text with explanatory figures.
* New Patterns in Old Style. Work composed of 12 plates,
accompanied by an explanatory text and figures. In-4°.
* Tatting. Album in-8°, containing 8 plates presenting
38 models, and a text with explanatory figures.
Works of various kinds (Recueil d'ouvrages divers).
Album in-4°, containing 242 engravings with explan-
atory text.
I*) The publications marked with an asterisk (*) are edited in English.
List of special articles
IN COTTON, LINEN AND SILK
intended for embroidery,
sewing, knitting, crociet and for all kinds of needlework in general,
manufactured and put on sale under the trade mark
DMC
Cotton: 6 cord Alsatian sewing cottons (Fils d' Alsace). — 6 cord cotton I<ace
Thread (Fil ii dentelles 6 brins), — 3 cord Alsatian sewing cotton {Demi- Alsace). —
2 cord Alsatian sewing cotton {Tiers- Alsace). — Bell mark cotton (Fil a la cloche).
— Sewing and tacking cottons, bell mark {Cotons a coudre et a batir a la cloche).
— Special Threads for sewing machines {Fils speciaux pour machines il coudre). —
Alsa. — Embroidery Twist (Retors a broder). — Embroidery cotton (Coton k broder).
— Embroidery cottons, special quality (Cotons k broder, qualit(S speciale). — Pearl
cottons (Cotons perles). — Shaded pearl cotton (Perle ombre). — Special stranded
cotton (Coton mouUne special). — Special shaded stranded cotton (Mouline special
ombre). — Floss crochet (Crochet fioche). — Machine Embroidery cotton, special
quality (Coton a broder pour machines, qualite speciale). — Marking cotton (Coton
a marquer). — Marking cottons, special quaUty (Cotons a marquer, qualite speciale). —
Knotting cotton (Fil a pointer), — Crochet cotton 6 cord (Cordonnet 5 fils). — Crochet
cottons 6 cord, special quality (Cordonnets 6 fils, qualite speciale). — Crochet cotton,
bell mark (Cordonnet £1 la cloche). — Silky Cotton for fine Hosiery (Sole de coton pour
bonneterie fine). — Special Twist for fine Hosiery (Retors special pour bonneterie
fine). — Crochet cotton (Coton pour crochet). — Knitting Twist (Retors pour tricot).
— Knitting cotton, special quality (Coton A tricoter, qualite speciale). — Knitting
cottons, bell mark (Retors pour mercerie). — Knitting cotton, bell mark, special
quality (Retors special pour mercerie). — Alsatia. — Darning cottons (Cotons a
repriser). — Darning cottons, special quality (Repriser special). — Superfine
Darning cotton (Repriser superfin). — Stranded Darning cottons 8 threads (Cotons
mouhnes 8 fils). — Alsatian Twist, special quality (Retors d'Alsace, quality spdciale).
— Alsatian Cordonnet, special quality (Cordonnet d'Alsace, qualite speciale).
— Superfine Braid (I<acet superfin d'Alsace). — Cotton Braid first quaUty (I,acet-
Coton, premiere qualite).
Flax Thread: Floss Flax or Flourishing Thread (I^in floche). — Flax
Thread for knitting and crochet (I^in pour tricoter et crocheter). — Flax I,ace
Thread (I<in pour dentelles).
Pxire Silk: Persian Silk (Sole de Perse).
Rayon: Rayon for embroidery (Rayonne k broder).
These articles are supplied in all sizes in ecru, white, black and all colours.
They can be obtained at the drapers', needlework shops, &c. ; however, the variety
of articles bearing the D-MC trade mark is so great that it is impossible, even for the
best furnished shops, to keep them all in stock.
Nevertheless, merchants in touch with the manufacturers, the Societe anonyme
DoLLFUS-MiEG & C'e, Or their agents being able to procure any of these articles, even
in fairly small quantities, consumers can always be supplied through them with
what they require.
Printed by the Societe anonyme
DOI<I<FUS-MIEG & C'f
MuLHOtJSE (France)
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