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Full text of "The Picayune's Creole cook book"

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ALBERT H. MANN LIBRARY 
Cornell University 

Gift of 
Thomas Bass 





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From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans 
San Francisco, 1912. 



CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 




3 1924 073 878 708 




Cornell University 
Library 



The original of tiiis bool< is in 
tine Cornell University Library. 

There are no known copyright restrictions in 
the United States on the use of the text. 



http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924073878708 



The PICAYUNE'S 

Creole 
Cook Book 



FOURTH EDITION 



^^^^HE Qviestion of ' 'a good cook' ' is now be- 
t 1 coming a very vexing problem. The only 
^^^ remedy for this state of things is for the 
ladies of the present day to do as their 
grandmothers did, acquaint themselves 
•thoroughly with ,tlie art of cooking in all its im- 
portant and minutest details, and learn how to 
properly apply them. To assist the good house- 
wives of the present day in this, to preserve to 
future generations the many excellent and match- 
less recipes of our New Orleans cuisine, to gather 
these up from the lips of the old Creole negro 
cooks and the grand old housekeepers who still 
survive,;* ere they, too, pass away, and 'Creole 
Cookery, With all its delightful combinations and 
possibilities, will have become a lost art, is, in a 
measure, the object of this book. :: :: :: :: :: 



Retail Price at picayune office, , - $ 1 .00 

By Registered Mail, - - $1.25 



Copyright 1901, 1906 and 1910 by 
THE PICAYUNE, - NEW ORLEANS, LA. 



Picayune Job Print 



The PICAYUNE'S CREOLE 
COOK BOOK 




INTRODUCTION. 

/■■^^ HE universal favor with which the first editions of THE 
/j PICAYUNE'S CREOLE COOK BOOK were received 
^^J^ throughout the United States, the remarkably short 
time in which they were exhausted, and the numerous 
demands for copies that are continually coming in from all sec- 
tions, has impelled the publishers to issue a Fourth Edition of this 
work. 

The Revised Edition has been prepared with great care. 
Each recipe that has been added has been tried and tested and is 
^iven as the result of personal practical experience and success 
in the Cteole Kitchen. The topics have been more conveniently 
and systematically classified and arranged, . the niethods of prepa- 
ration and manipulation in many instances simplified, and the 
edition, in its entirety, will therefore be found far more complete, 
comprehensive and valuable than the first. 

With these explanations THE PICAYUNE sends forth the 
Creole Cook Book. Its name tells its story and bespeaks its 
value. It is 

THE ONLY BOOK OF THE KIND. 




I'm the Picayune's Weather Trophct, 

It's Froggie so faithful ami true ; 
"Xante Zoe'' has asked me to help her 

In serving so nicely to you, 
The dishes The Picayune bade her 

Prepare as a Creole cook can, 
That men might grow wiser and better, 

And happiness reign in the land. 



INTRODUCTION 

TO THE FIRST EDITION 



^MWr N PRESENTING to the public this Creole Cook Book, The Picayune 

II, is actuated by the desire to fill a want that has long been felt, 

|l not only in New Orleans, where the art of good cooking was long 

H ago reduced to a positive science, but in many sections of the 

country where the fame of our Creole cuisine has spread, and 

with slight modification incident to local supplies of food articles, many of 

our most delightful recipes may be adapted by the intelligent housekeeper with 

profit and pleasure. 

Time was when the question of a Creole Cook Book would have been, as 
far as New Orleans is concerned, as useless an addition to our local literature 
as it is now a necessity, for the Creole negro cooks of nearly two hundred 
•years ago, carefully instructed and directed by their white Creole mistresses, 
who received their inheritance of gastronomic lore from France, where the 
art of good cooking first had birth, faithfully transmitted their knowledge to 
their progeny, and these, quick to appreciate and understand; and with a keen 
intelligence and zeal born of the desire to please, improvised and improved 
upon the product's of the cuisine of Louisiana's mother country ; then came 
the Spanish domination, with its influx of rich and stately dishes, brought over 
by the grand dames of Spain of a century and a half ago ; after that came 
the gradual amalgamation of the two races on Louisiana sdil, and with this 
was evolved a new school of cookery, partaking of the best elements of the 
French and Spanish cuisines, and yet peculiarly distinct from either, a system 
of cookery that has held its- own through suceeodiug generations and which 
drew from even such a learned authority as Thackeray, that noted tribute 
to New Orleans, "the old Franco- Spanish city on the banks of the Mississippi, 
where, of all the cities in the world, you can eat the most and suffer the least, 
where claret is as good as at Bordeaux, and where a 'ragout' and a 'bouilla- 
baisse' can be had, the like of which was never eaten in Marseilles or Paris.'' 
But the Civil War, with its vast upheaval of social conditions, wrought 
great changes in the household economy of New Orleans, as it did throughout 
the South ; here, as elsewhere, she who had ruled as the mistress of yestei'day, 
became her own cook of to-day ; in nine cases out of ten the younger darkies 
accepted their freedom with alacrity, but in many ancient families the older 
Creole "negresse," as they were called, were slow to leave the haunts of the 



old cuisine and the families of which they felt themselves an integral part, 
Many lingered on, and the young girls who grew up after that period had 
opportunities that will never again come to the Creole girls of New Orleans. 
For one of J:he most significant changes and one of the saddest, too, in this 
old city, is the passing of the faithful old negro cooks — the "mammies," who 
felt it a pride and honor, even in poverty, to cling to the fortunes of their 
former masters and mistresses, and out of the scant family allowance to be 
still able to prepare for their "ole Miss' " table a "ragout" from a piece of 
neck. meat, or a "pot-au-poivre" from many mixturees that might grace the 
dining of a king. 

But the "bandana and tignon" are fast disappearing from our kitchens. 
Soon will the last of the olden negro cooks of ante-bellum days have passed 
away and their places will not be supplied, for in New Orleans, as in other 
cities of the South, there is "a new colored woman" as well as a new white. 
The question of "a good cpok" is now becoming a very vexing problem , and 
the' only remedy for this state of things is for the ladies of the present day 
to do as their grandmothers did, acquaint themselves thoroughly with the 
art of cooking in all its important and minutest details, and learn how to 
properly apply them. To assist them in this, to preserve to future generations 
the many excellent and matchless recipes of our New Orleans cuisine, to 
gather these up from the lips of the Old Creole negro cooks and the grand old 
houskeepers who still survive, ere they too, pass away, and Creole cookery, 
with all its delightful combinations and possibilities, will have become a lost 
art, is, in a measure, the object of this book. 

But far and above this. The Picayune, in compiling this book, has been 
animated by the laudable desire to teach the great mass of the public how to 
live cheaply and well. The moral influences of good cooking cannot be too 
forcibly insisted upon. There is an old saying that "the way to a man's heart 
is through his stomach." Every housewife knows the importance of setting a 
well-cooked meal before her husband if she' wishes him to preserve his 
equanimity of tempeii. Every mother should know the importance of pre- 
paring good, nutritious dishes for, her children in the most palatable and appe- 
tizing manner, if she would give them that most precious of all gifts "a 
healthy mind in a healthy body." People are the better, the happier and the 
longer lived for the good, wholesome, well-cooked daily meal. 

The introduction, then, of the art of good cooking into every household 
and a general, intelligent knowledge of the nutritive qualities of food sub- 
stances, are ends greatly to be desired, for the- best food often loses half its 
value through the faults displayed in preparation, while, on the other hand, 
simple and plain dishes may be so cooked that they will acquire a flavor and 
a nutritive value through special combinations that will please the most deli- 
cate appetities. Among all classes to-day there is a deplorable and constant 
waste. Among the rich, the sole aim, of what appears to be good cookery, 
seems rather an effort to tempt by a succession of highly-seasoned and savory 
food and to consume to excess ; while among the poor and middle classes living 
and cooking seem to go on as best they may, with little variety from day to 
day, and still less care and preparation, indeed, the food is often cooked in 
such a way that ready digestion becomes an impossibility, and a large portion 
of the nutriment is either wasted or destroyed utterly. 



It is proposed in this booli to assist the . housekeepers generally to set 
a dainty and appetizing table at a moderate outlay ; to give recipes clearly 
and accurately with simplicity and exactness, so that the problem of "how to 
live," may become easier of solution and even the most ignorant and inex- 
perienced cook may be able to prepare a toothsome and nutritious meal with 
success. The housekeeper is not told "to take some of this, a little of that," 
and "a pinch" of some other ingredient ; she is not left to the chance of 
guessing accidentally at the proper proportions of component parts of any 
dish, but the relative proportions of all ingredients are given with accuracy, 
the proper length of time required for cooking different dishes. In all the 
recipes the quantities are given for u, family of six.. The intelligent houses 
heeper will thus 6e aile to form a happy medium and increase or reduce 
proportionately according to the size of her family, the numler of invited 
guests, etc. r- * j ' 

The Picayune's Creole Cook Booh is not designed for chefs of cuisines ; 
it has! been prepared with special appreciation of the wants of the household 
and of that immense class of housekeepers who, thrown upon their own re- 
sources and anxious to learn, are yet ignorant of the simplest details of 
good cooking ; for young housekeepers who are left to "experience" for a 
teacher, and who often learn only after many disheartening failures arid a 
great outlay and waste of good material, and for the public generally, who, 
as a rule, have yet to learn that in a well-regulated kitchen nothing is ever 
wasted, but with careful preparation even the "rough-ends" of a beef steak 
may be made into a wholesome, tender and appetizing dish ; that "stale bread" 
may be used in the most delicious "desserts" and "farcies," and "left-over" 
food from the day before need not be thrown in the trash-box, but may be 
made into an endless variety of wholesome and nutritious dishes. 

Hence, especial care has: been taken to rescue from oblivion many fine 
old-fashipned dishes, and bring them back into general use — dishes whose 
places can never be equaled by elegant novelties or fancifully extravagant 
recipes ; special attention has been given to the siiiple, every-day home dishes 
of the Creole household, while those that tempted the gourmet and epicureans 
in the palmiest da^fs of old Creole cookery have not been omitted. The 
Picayune points with pride to the famous "soupes," "gumbos," "ragouts," "en- 
tremets," "hors d'oeuvres," "jambalayas" and "desserts," that in turn receive 
particular attention. A special chapter has been devoted to the science of 
making good coffee "a la Creole," and one to the modes of cooking Louisiana 
rice. The consumption of rice has increased enormously Of late, and it will 
continue to become more and more popular as. an article of food when the 
people in the North and West learn how to cook it, and understand how 
largely it enters into a variety of delightful and dainty combinations. Our 
"Galas," our "Pralines," and "Pacane Amandes," our "Marrons Glaces," and 
Ices, and our "Meringues," and our delicious ways of serving Louisiana 
oranges peculiar to ourselves alone, are given in respective order. The history 
of many dishes is also given, thus affording a glimpse into old Creole hospi- 
tality, customs and traditions. Commendable features are the series of menus 
for holidays and daily suggestions for the table, as also the thoroughly classi- 
fied list of seasonable foods. 



Throughout this ' work The Picayune has had but one desire at heart, and 
that is to reach the wants of every household in our cosmopolitan community ; 
to show the earnest houskeeper how the best food may be prepared at the 
least cost, and how it is possible for every family, from the palace to the 
cottage, to keep a good taole and at the same time an economical one. 

"Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well." If this is true of 
other things, how much more of cooking, upon which the life and health of the 
family depend. The kitchen should not be looked upon as a place of drudgery ; 
a poet once sung of 

"Making drudgery divine j 

Who sweeps a room as to God's laws. 

Makes that and the action fine." 

The benefits that will ultimately accrue to every family, morally and 
physically, from paying greater attention to the proper preparation of food 
cannot be overestimated ; the fact that good cooking operates to the greatest 
extent in the preservation of the domestic peace and happiness of a family 
cannot be gainsaid. That this Creole Cook Book may find its way to many 
hearths and homes, and that the life of the household may be the better, 
healthier and happier for its advent, is the wish of 

THE nCAYUNE. 



tCbe jpiicaisune'e Creole 
Cook Book. 



(Fourth Edition) 



CHAPTER I. 
CREOLE} COFFBQ. 

Cafe a. la CrSole. 



A good cup of Ci-eole Coffee. 
Is there anything liif the whole 
range of food substances to be com- 
pared with it? And is there any 
city in the world where coffee is so 
delightfully concocted as in New Or- 
leans? Travelers the world over 
unite in praise of Creole Coffee, 6r 
••Caf§ a la Creole," as they are fond 
of putting it. The Creole cuisini- 
eres succj^edea far beyond even the 
famous chefs of France in discover- 
ing the secret of good coffee-making, 
and they have never yielded the palm 
of victory. There is no place in the 
'world in w^hicb the use oX coffee is 
more general than in the old 
Creole city of New Orleans, where, 
from the famous French Market, 
with its world-renowned coffee 
stands, to the olden homes on the 
Bayou St. John, from Lake Pontch- 
artrain to the verge of SouthpdTt, 
the cup. of "Caf§ Noir," or -"Caf6 au 
X.ait," at morning, at noon and at 
night, has become a necessary and 
delightful part of the life of the 
people, and the wonder and the joy 
of visitors. 

The morning cup of CafS Noir i« 
an integral part of the life of a Cre- 
ole household. The Creoles hold as 
a physiological fact that this custom 
contributes to longevity, and point, 
day after day, to examples of old 
men and women of fourscore, and 
over, who attest to the powerful aid 
they have received through life from 
a good, fragrant cup of coffee In the 
early morning. The ancient resi- 
dents hold, too, that, after a hearty 
meal, a cup of "Cafg Noir," or black 
coffee, will relieve the sense of op- 
pression so apt to be experienced, 
and enables the stomach to perform 
Jts functions with greater facility. 
Cafg Noir is known, too, as one of 



the best preventives of infectious 
diseases, and the ancient Creole phy- 
sicians never used any other deodo- 
rizer than passing a chafing dish 
with burning grains of coffee through 
the room. As an antidote for poison 
the uses of coffee are too well known 
to be dilated upon. 

Coffee is also the greatest brain 
food and stimulant known. Men of 
science, poets and scholars and jour- 
nalists, have testified to its benefi- 
cial effects. Coffee suppo^rted the 
old age of Voltaire, and enabled Fon- 
tenelle to reach his one hundredth 
birthday. Charles Gayarre, the il- 
lustrious Louisiana historian, at the 
advanced age of eighty, paid tribute 
to the Creole cup of "Cafe Noir." 
Among advanced scientists it is rap- 
idly taking the place of digitalis in 
the treatment of certain cardiac af- 
fections, and the basis of black, oaf- - 
fee, "cafffeine," enters largely into 
medicinal compositions. Coffee is 
now classed by physicians as an aux- 
iliary food substance, as retard- 
ing the waste of nerve tissue and 
acting with peculiarly strengthening 
effect upon the nervous and vascular 
system. 

How important, then, is the art of 
making good coffee, entering, as it 
does, so largely into the daily life of 
the American people. There is no 
reason why the secret should be con- 
fined to any section or city^ but, with 
a little care and attention, every 
household in the land may enjoy its 
morning or after-dinner cup of cof- 
fee with as much real pleasure as the 
Creoles of New Orleans and the thou- 
sands of visitors who yearly migrate 
to this old Franco-Spanish city. 

It is, therefore, with pardonable 
pride that the Picayune begins thla 
Creole Cook Book by introducing ita 



10 



readers into a typical Creole kitchen 
where "Tante Zo§," in the early 
morning hour, in her quaint, guinea- 
blue dress and bandana "tignon," is 
carefully concocting the morning cup 
ot 

' CAFfi NOIR. 

And the first she will tell you, this 
old CrSole NSgresse, as she busies 
herself parching to a beautiful brown 
the jiiorning portion of green coffee, 
that the secret of good coffee lies in 
having 

Tlie Best Ingredients and in tlie 
^ Proper Making. 

By the best ingredients she means 
mose delightful coffees grown on 
well-watered mountain slopes, such , 
as the famous Java and Mocha cof- 
fees. It must be of the best quality, 
the Mocha and Java mixed producing 
a. concoction of a most delightful 
aroma and stimulating effect. She 
will tell you, too, that one of the 
first essentials is to "Parch the Cof- 
fee Grains jTJst Before Making the 
Coffee," because coffee that has bee.i 
loiig parched and left standing loses 
its flavftr and 'strengthi The coffee 
grains should "Be Roasted to a Rich' 
Brown," and never allowed to scorch- 
or burn, otherwise the flavor of the 
coffee is at once affected or de- 
stroyed. Good coffee should never be 
boiled. Bear this io- mind, that the 
GOoD. CREJOL.B COOK NEVER 
B9P..S COFFEE; but insists on -drip- 
ping it,,in- at,<foyered strainer, sWwly, 
slowly— iPRIE, DBIPjDRJP^.till .al-l 
the flavor is extracted. •'■ 

To reach this desired end, immedi- 
ately after the coffee has been 
roasted and allowed to cool in a 
covered dish, so that none of the 
flavor will escape, the coffee is 
ground — neither ■ too fine, for that 
will make the coffee dreggy; nor too 
coarse, for that prevents the escape 
of the. .full strength of ;the coffee 
Juice — but a careful medium pro- 
portion, --which will not allow the 
hot wa-ter pouring to- run rapidly 
through, but which will admit o£ 
the water percolating -slowly through- 
and through the grounds, extracting 
ever^y bit -of the strength ..a.iid aropa, 
and falling steadily wifela ""a drip! 
drip!" into the coffee pot. 

To make good coffee, the water 
must be, : "freshly boiled," and must 
never, be- poured upon the grounds 
until it has reached the good boil-- 
ing point, otherwise the flavor is de- 
stroyed, and subsequ.*n;t:'pourings of 
boiling-.-water can -never quite suc- 
ceed .in. 'extracting- the superb 
strength and aroma -which disting- 
uish the., good cup of coffee. 
. It. is of the .greatest-. Importajjce. 
that "The Coffee. Pot" Be Kept iPsr-' 
fectly Clean," and the good cook 



will bear in mind that absolute clean- 
liness is as necessary for the in- 
terior" of the coffee pot as for the 
shining "exterior." This fact is one 
too commonly overlooked, and-, y^t 
the coffee pot .Requires more .than, or- 
din-ary care,- for -the reason .that the 
chemical action 'of the coffee upon 
the tin or agate tends to create a 
substance wh|eh collects and clings 
to every crevice. and seam, and, natu- 
rally, in the course of time will af- 
fect the flavor of the coffee most 
peculiarly and unpleasantly. Very 
often the fact that the coffee tastes 
bitter or muddy arises from this 
fact. The "inside" of the coffee pot 
should,- therefore, be washed as 
carefully "every day" as the outside. 
Having observed these conditions, 
proceed to make the coffee according 
to the following unfailing 

Creole Rule. 

Have the water heated to a good 
boil. Set the coffee pot in froiit Of 
the stove; never on top, as the coffee 
will boil, and thert th'e taste is de- 
stroyed. 

Allow- one cup,' or the ordinary^ 
mill, of coffee to' mak6 four" ■ '4:o'3J'^ 
cups of the liquid,- grounij and 'put' 
in the -strainer,' being-.. earefuV"' to" 
keep both the strain^r'-atid the' spout ' 
of the coffee-pot covered; to ptJSV6nt 
the flavor from escaping. Pour,-flr-st, 
about two . tablespoonfuls- of the 
boiling water on the .coffee groiitids, •■ 
or, according to th«- quantity of coffee 
used, just sufficient - to ' settle -the' 
grounds. Wait about five minlUtBX^f-' 
then pour a-, little .more-^-waiter, -anfl" 
allow it to -drip sloiWy'.thisottgh.i-but' 
never pour water the .-second ti-me3 
until the grounds have ceased to puff 
or bubble, as this- is an indication 
that the grounds have settled. Keep 
pouring slowly, at -intervals, a-littie 
boiling water at -a time, until the 
d-elightful aroma of the coffee. begins' 
to escape from the closed spout PS- 
the coffee- pot. If the coffee dyes 
the- cup, it is a little too strong; but 
do not go far beyond this, . or thft, 
coffee will be too weak. "When you 
have produced a rich, ."fragrabt.. con- 
coction, whose delightful arora,a;/;fill-, 
ing thfe rootn,'.is. ,a -Cdnst^At, te-iipting, 
iVlYit'aitloh. to'.'ta.stfi.'it, ^?,erve"iiai';.tine; 
china cups, u.s'irig n'n' preferghc.e TttaA" 
sugar for sweetening. Ypii '^a've! 
then a real cup of the faraoifs i;>^di# 
Cafe Noir, . so.^_ ext,en.3ively usad,' at," 
morning .d.aiS^n, 'at breaktast,, and'.as 
the ."afterdinner cup."" 
. If the .coffee appears/m-ud'ijjc, or^n'ot. 
clear, some, of the old- Creoje^ "drDP 
a piece qf charcoaVaij. .i.nch-thi'oi.'in- 
to. the, water, w-hioh s^t.tles7it'.^n,4 ^t. 
once- makes it clear. Oem^igtra^ions 
prove that" strength rema(:;}s'.;,i'n. the' 
aoffee grounds. A ma1;ter of e'^ynonjy' 
in making coffee is to save the 



11 



grounds from the meal or day before 
and boil these, in a half gallon of 
water. Settle the grounds by drop- 
ping two or three drops of cold wa- 
ter in, &,nd pour~The water over the 
fresh grounds. This is a suggestion 
that rich and poor might heed with 
profit. 

CAF;e AU LAIT. 

Proceea in the same manner as in 
the making of "Cafe Noir," allowing 
the usual Quantity of boiling water 
to the amount of coffee used. Wlien 
made, pour the coffee into delicate 
china cups, allowing a half cup of 
coffee to each cup. Serve, at the 
same time, a -small pitcher of very 



sweet and fresh cream, allowing a 
half cup -of cream to a half .cup of 
coffee. The millt should always be 
boiled, and the cream very hot. If 
the cream is not fresh and sweet, it 
will curdle the coffee, by reason of 
the heat. Catg au Lait is a great 
breakfast drink in New Orleans, 
while Cafg Noir Is more generally 
the early morning and the afternoon 
drink. 

Having thus bid its readers "Good 
morning," and- drank with them a 
cup of Cafe Noir, the Picayune will 
proceed to discuss Creole Cookery 
in all its "forms, frofn soup "a, la Cre- 
ole," to "paoandes amandes" anJ 
"praliii«s." 



CHAPTER II. 



:-.-.i SOUPS. '- 

General Directions for Makjng Soup — The Pot-ia,.u-Feu, -tlae Bouillon 
" - and the (^onsdnimfc' '' ■"- >:' ■'■ 



Uncooked meat is the .base of all 
soups, except such as- tlie Creoles 
call "Mai-gre," or fast-day soups. 
These ■■ delightf-al •^'Creatrf SoupB;' or 
Purges, will be sp'SblSiry trfekted la- 
ter. They enteV largely into the do- 
mestic life of New Orleans, as also 
more particularly the Pot-au-Feu, 
the Bouillon and the -!p6ns6mm6. 
These three are the "mother-soups," 
for upon their careful preparation, 
depend, taste, .flavor and the entire 
problem pf good soup-making. 

The, ancient Creoles preserved with 
few mbdlAeatjons many of the cus- 
toms of " their French ancestors. 
Among .these, was, " the daily plate 
of soup. . .'■„ 

In- France soup, enters far more, 
largely into the l,ife of the people 
than-^t\, this.- old French city o^ New 
QrlealijIlThe mprning cup of bouillon 
lS,Be,r'{jf^in the" jjnost , exclusive homeis, 
A-c)i(^^,ftf cla,r,et,g.iid-.,a-plat6 of .good., 
soup is the essential morning portioiijr 
of _ the peasantry. Soup is always 
served at dinner from palace to h3Vri 
«*1, Ap'.i.in,. the "dfiliceus^' cup of 
^.r»M iioLi' , is served ,a.t teas and. 
soirees ;n old France just-a^ served 
to-day in .its ancient colony pp jtl^e 
hanks . of , i'ne , Mississippi. The Cre- 
oles relegated the. morning cup of 
bouillon,, biii retained ,' the, daily sery.- 
ing of sous atdi,nner, ajj,,,tin:ve" intro- 
ducing, as .i^'l.trequent sujjstitute tha,t, 
exclusive, Cr^flle Gflncpjtion, , ,pj^ml)o. 
No dinne'-V is ,cpnsi.dered., cc^mplete 
without cither. The custom" has-been 
sustairijca. .<gnd , jidopte(J by. A'niei;fean 
residetits ,^f N^fv;s.Qrieans.,. , The,,Qre- 
ole- . hous«wi^e«„\lays the. grea.f^est 
stress unon two' great essentials In 



the making .of good souj),;din the first 
I plai'e, the soup must never stop boil- 
i ing one instant until done; secondly, 
I once the soup. is started; water must 
I rte^^far be adtfcd, 'Neither, on the other 
; handii mus.t.'.the' 59UP- -be allowed;. tOi 
I boil rapidly, or it will bemULddy and, 
; lose; much of its flavor anJ strengihf 
'■ by,:.eiVa.piorationi The. "soup bone,"i 
or',"bou111ii" as we call it down Jhere.- 
in New Orleans, must be -,put on in, 
cold water, without salt, and must- 
heat slowly-,-: . The pot must be kept 
well covered, and no ,salt must be 
added until the meat is. .thoroughly- 
; cooked, as the addition of salt tends 
' to harden the fibers of the moat and 
prevents the free flow of the juices, 

■ At no stage of the proceeding must 
the soup be allowed to boil fast. If 
the bone has been fractured every 
inch of its^ length,' the soup will be 
ai,l tjje stronger and more nutri- 
tious, The^-beef .shouja b^ selected 
fQ,r ?fts,'';duality,'';as •.f'r^'^Tly' ^iUed as 
possible, and' prefefabl3^.;o.f 'the' eiit,' 
known by butcliers" as' "Tlib Htjrse-' 
shoe,"', Tp be ^inost nutritious the 
soup , sho'illd bpir a long time. The 
Creoles, jj^'ver ■ .feerve soUp that .lia's; 
been, cbb'kiri'g, less than five or seven 
hours,', , according , to the' quantity' to 
be served. In a well-regulate'cl 
household, the soup is put on at 
br^e^fa^t time, in the rear o£ the 
stove,.,^hd allow'p'4 .to .cook slowly f,6r 
-fp.tir, pr_'^,fiye. ^.JiOu^, until , the. tirne' 
cpnie's' fo'r , piittitj^_'ijjl ,-the dinnej-' 
proper. ., In 'th'e ipea,nt,ithe, the fire 
has,, 'tq^^ rep,lenJshed ;|lPwly ,frbrh 

! tj'm'q to time,' ;'sp, , that ^hen the 'mo- - 

■ nxenj.jto'r', add.i'n_g', the, vegetables^ 'dr 
' other ' ingredients arrives, the 



strength oJ.^,the meat has been nearly 
or quite extracted. 

The two suggestions, "Never al- 
low the soup to cease boiling when 
once it has begun, and never to add 
water after the ingredients are once 
put together and begin to boil," 
have been called the "Golden Rule" 
of soup-making. The housekeeper 
should take them to heart, for upon 
their strict observance depends that 
boon to poor, suffering humanity — 
a good plate of soup. It these rules 
are learned and reliably followed, 
the first step has been taken to- 
wards setting a good dinner. 

It might be added here that while 
soup stock is of general use in colder 
climates, and can be made and kept 
for several days, the warm tropical 
climate of New Orleans precludes 
this, as the stock would become 
sour; the soup broth must, therefore, 
be prepared fresh every day. 

Rice flour, arrowroot or corn- 
starch , mixed .''T*ith aC little water 
are often used to thicken soups; 
but every good Creole cook knows 
that the soup that Is properly made 
needs no thickening. Salt should be 
used sparingly, as also spices, which 
should always be us«d whole. 

To be palatable, soup must be 
served very hot. 

It Is generally estimated that In 
preparing soups a pound of meat 
sirouid be allowed for every «(«art o£ 
water. In the following recipes the 
Ingredients must be increased pro- 
portionatelyi according to the num- 
ber of Tpesseits to bc-iseTved. The In- 
telligent housekeeper can readily du- 
termine the exact measurements 
needed in her family, increasing pro- 
portions when guests are expected 
at the family table. 

The Every-DHy Pot-au-Feu, or 
Simple Bouillon. 

The Pot-au-Feu, or Bouillon, is 
made by boiling a good soup bone 
which has been carefully selected 
for its nutritive qualities in water 
a certain length of time, by means of 
which the nutriment is extracted. 
Bouillon of the best quality can only 
be made from good meat, which 
should be chosen from the fleshy. 
Juicy part of the thigh. Meat from 
the, breast or lower ribs makes- gt>oct 
Pot-au-Feu, but of a lighter quality, 
and is preferred by some Creole 
cuisiniSres. 

The vegetables used are found in 
the "soup bunch" sold by every New 
Orleans butcher, and carefully ar- 
ranged. The bunch comprises pieces 
of cabbage, a turnip or two, carrots, 
parsley, celery and onion. Many of 
the most famous Creole cooks add 
garlic and cloves, thyme, bay leaf 
and allspice. But this is a matter of 



taste. The " every day SSuillon is 
made by boiling the soup bone for 
four or five hours, skimming care- 
fully as the scum rises; and adding, 
as it starts boiling well, the vegeta- 
bles contained in the "soup bunch." 
If vermicelli, macaroni or other soup 
is desired, such as can be made from 
the simple Bouillon, or Pot-au- Feu, 
these ingredients are added In the 
proportions mentioned in the special 
receipt for these soups, and the soup 
is boiled an hour or so longer. 

The Herb Bouquet. 

Every good Creole cook keeps on 
hand an "herb bouquet," made of a 
spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
celery, parsley and bay leaf. These 
are tied together, and constitute the 
"bouquet." It will flavor a gallon 
of soup. If cooked for an hour. 

POT-AU-FEUvA LA ORfiOLE. 

4 Pounds of Leah Beef. 

6 Quarts of CJoId Water. 

2 Small Turuips. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 

1 Parsnip. 1 Cup of Cut-up Tomatoes. 

2 Whole Cloves. 

1 Bay Leaf. IClove of Garlic. 5 Allspice. 

2 Irish Potatoes. 

Small Piece of Lemon Peel. 

Small Piece of Red Pepper Pod. 

Buuch of Celery Leaves (Chopped.) 

Bunch of Parsley (Chopped.) 

Pinch of Salt^. Pinch of Black Pepper. 

Sprig of Cabbage. 

This Pot-au-Feu, properly made, 
is truly delicious, savory and dell- 
caiely odorous. The best cut for 
this is from the round low^er end of 
the beef. It is important to have 
good beef, and that it be as freshly 
killed as can be had. Many of the 
Creoles add the beef spleen or 
brisket to the soup. This Is rich and 
juicy, and gives nutritive value to 
the dish. If -delicacy is preferred to 
richness in the soup, the marrow 
bone is omitted. Put the meat into 
cold water, heating by slow degrees 
in order that it may gradually pen- 
etrate the meat, softening It and dis- 
solving the non-nutritive portion, 
which rises to the top of the liquid 
as a scum. As the scum becomes 
thicker remove it. After having 
skimmed well, set the soup back 
where it can be kept on a, gentle 
but steady, boil; when the soup is 
well skimmed, add the vegetables, 
which have been cut to proper fine- 
ness, and a little salt to suit the 
taste, and let the soup continue to 
boil from five to six hours, remem- 
bering strictly the two essential 
rules given. By following this recipe 
you will have an excellent soup for 
family use. 

The Creoles often serve the Pot- 
au-Feu with small squares of dry or 
toasted bread, put Into the tureen 



and the hot soup is poured over thein 
at the moment'-of serving, 

Should the-ilaV*r of the garlic, 
allspice, cloves or bay leaf be disa- 
greeable, they may be omitted. But 
they are essential ingredients of tlie 
Creole Pot-au-Feu. 

A particularly delicate flavor is 
often obtained by adding to the beef 
some pieces of raw fowl, or the re- 
mains of a cooked fowl, more espe- 
cially the carcass. But never add 
remains of mutton, pork or veal, as 
these meats impart an acrid odor, 
detracting from the perfection of 
the Pot-au-Feu. 

BOUILi,ON. 

To make a good Bouillon is an art 
in itself. It is the soup that most 
frequently, after the Pot-au-Feu, en- 
ters Into the economy of the Creole 
household. It is not only used in the 
daily menu, but on occasions of fam- 
ily reunions and soirfies, is served 
cold or warm in cups. It is always 
prepared in a concentrated form for 
the use of invalids. In illness, where 
the quantity administered is required 
to be as nutritious as possible, the 
round steak should always be chosen 
for the Bouillon, and It is decidedly 
better -not to clear the soup, as the 
pi-ocess of clearing not only destroys 
a great deal- of ttte-i delicate flavor, 
but also of tfier-nutriment contained 
In the BoUilloW/r- 

Select good fi5gs-h beef, and where 
intended for arf' invalid allow two 
pounds of beef to every quart of wa- 
ter. The B(j^lon should always 
boil from six ito seven hours. For 
dinners, luncheons, etc., the follow- 
ing proportions may be used: 

6 POiinda of Beet, without Bone or Fat. 
6 Quarts of Cola Water. _ 
4 Cloves. Allspice. 
A Small Cup of Fresli or Canned Tomatoes. 
1 Teaspoon of Salt. 
1 Spoon of Celery Seed. 
I Bay Leaf. 
A Piece of Red Pepper I'od, without Seeds. 
(Omit for the Sick.) 
1 Clove of Garlic (omit for the Sick.) 

Put these ingredients into the soup 
kettle, after the Bouillon has been 
brought to a boil. Then set aside 
and let it simmer gently, but never 
allow the soup to rack. After two 
and a. half hours add 

A Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Onion cut - In pieces. 

1 Small Bunch of Celery, If you have not 

used tbe seed. 

1 Medium-Sized Carrot, chopped fl^e. 

Replace the cover and let ' tlie 
Bouillon boil gently for two and one- 
half hours more, making flve hours of 
actual boiling when not intended for 
Invalid use. At this stage, from the 
quantity of ingredients used in the 
above recipe, the Bouillon will meas- 



13 



ure about three quarts for. family 
use. If you decide not to clarify the 
soup, set it aside and let It settle, 
then carefully pour off the upper 
portion, but do not shake the bowl or 
disturb the sediment. Tlie Creoles 
then add about a tablespoonful ol 
celery and a little cayenne. Th's 
soup requires no artificial coloring, 
its own strength and long boiling 
producing a beautiful tint. Should 
a greater quantity be required, the , 
housekeeper will guide herself ac- 
cording to the proportions given in 
this receipt. 

To Clarify Bouillon. 

To clarify Bouillon, remove the fat 
and pour the broth into a clear ket- 
tle. Add the crushed shells of two 
eggs. Stir this into the cold soup 
until well mixed. Set it on the fire, 
and from the moment it begins to 
boil let it cook steadily ten minutes 
longer. Set it back on the stove or 
hearth for four or flve minutes to 
settle. Then strain it through a 
towel. Allow the Bouillon to drip, 
remembering never to squeeze the 
bag. A very clear soup is never a 
very nutritious one. 

CONSOMME. 

6 Pounds of Lean Beef. 

2 Laige-Sized Onions. 

2 Carrots. 2- Stalks Celery. 

1 Piece of Obbage.,^ 

Salt and Cayenne tn Taste." 

A Consommg is a clear soup. 

Select six pounds of leh.n beef, 
rump of beef and some bones, and cut 
the meat into small pieces, the bones 
also being mashed. Put this on in 
about six quarts of cold water, and, 
when it comes to a boil, skim well. 
Then add a teaspoonful of salt tJ 
help the scum rise more thoroughly, 
and skim as • it rises. Take 
two large sized onions, two 
carrots, a piece of cabbage and two 
pieces of celery; chop fine and add 
to the soup, and let it boil six hours, 
or until the broth is reduced about 
one-half the quantity. By this time 
the meat should be cooked into rags. 
Pass all through a colander and then 
strain through a coarse flannel cloth. 
Season highly with Cayenne pepper 
and salt to the taste. If the meat is 
good, the soup will be perfectly 
clear. If it is cloudy or muddv be- 
fore straining, crush the shells of 
two eggs and put them into the soup 
and let it come to a good boil. Set 
it back about ten minutes and then 
strain. Add vermicelli, or -macaroni, 
br pat§s,-'=a;cooTding to' taste. Th-:s 
soup will require no artificial col- 
oring. ., 

'' ',-$'j Colorings for Soap, 

Having given the recipes for the 
"mother soups," which are the bases 



u 



of all soups, a word must be said 
about colorings for soup. While 
colorings bave been extensively 
used in New Orleans, the good old 
Creoles long ago found out that 
coloring matter,, whether in liatiid 
form or in balls or tablets, detracted 
.from the. good flavor of the soup, 
and that a properly made soup need- 
ed no coloring. The good Bouillon 
has a color peculiar to itself — a red- 
dish yellow, which comes from the 
juice of the meat. The absence of 
.natural color In the soup indicates 
that too small an amount of meat 
has been used in proportion to th; 
water, a poor quality of meat, or 
there has been a too rapid process 
of boiling. Still, if colorings are 
desired, the foUowijlg recipe, which 
is free from the deleterious co.n- 
pounds sold in siores, has long been 
used by the .Creoles for coloring 
gravies, and may be used with good 
e.tfect.'in soups.' It. is ca.lled by the 
preoles . ,r. . 



Caramel. 

Take about a half pint of brown 
sugar, put it in a pan, on a slow me, 
and let it burn or parch, slowly 
stirring all the time. When it turns 
a dark brown, add two pints of wa- 
ter and stir well, and then bottle. 
Put it away and use a. few drops at 
a time to color and thicken gravies 
and soup broths. Or. take a large 
raw onion, skin and all, and thrust 
into the burning coals. When it be- 
gins to brown well, take out of the 
coals, dust off all the ashes and 
throw into the soup- or gravy. This 
will give all the coloring that is 
needed. 

More simple or satisfactory recipes 
cannot be .found. Nevertheless, th^e 
Creoies jnaintain', and. demonstrate 
that' the best ooltjring for soups is 
that .prb'dueed iry good material and 
long boiling. . 



CHAPl'lSRIII. 
MEAT SOUPS. 



Julienne Soup. '^ 

Potage "it la JuU'enrtfe. 

5 rounds of Lean Beef. 5 Quarts tit Water. 

2 T'Jl'Uips.' 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 

2 Leelis. A Suaall Stalk- of Culery. 

3 Tomatojes. 
A Small nalf-Heaa of Wliite Cabbage. 

1 Gill of areen Peas., 
The shin of the beef is tli'e best to 

make a good Julienne ss'up. Set the 
beef and water in a close vessel 
where they will heat gradually. Af- 
ter boiling five or six hours add the 
fol-lowing vegetables, which have 
been carefully prepared according to 
these directions: Cut the vegetables 
into long, thin shreds. Take a table- 
spoonful of lard, heat and add the 
vegetables, letting them fry or 
smother until a'golden brown. Then 
add to the ■ boiling broth. If fresh 
peas are used they must be boiled 
apart. If canned peas, simply add to 
the broth, after throwing in the veg- 
etables. Let them cook in the broth 
one hour longer- and serve hot with 
the 'vegetables. 

, Verjnicelll Soup. 

G-onsonlmg, ou Potage au Vermicelle. 

'-■% Pint of Broth to Each Person."" 
1 Oiiijce of Vermicelli to Each Person. 

Prepare a good Bouillon, or Pot- 
au-Feu, or Consommg, according to 
the taste of the household, the sim- 



ple Pot-au-Peu being most generally 
lused.' ■ A half hour before -serving 
add the vermicelli to the broth, and 
serve hot. 

nincnroni Soup. 

Potage au Macaroni. 

2 Quarts of Broth. 
14 Pound of Macaroni. 

Prepare a good Pot-au-Feu, or 
Bouillon, according to directions giv- 
en, and allowing a quarter of a pound 
of macaroni to- two q.uarts of broth. 
Break the macaroni into two-inch 
length pieces and add to the boiling 
broth about a half hour or so before 
serving. Some housekeepers cook the 
macaroni seperately in salted boiling 
water about ten or fifteen minutes 
draining thoroughly, and dropping 
into the boiling broth about fifteen 
minutes before serving. The soup is 
often served with Parmesan cheese, 
grated. But this is not necessary. 

Tapioca Soup. 

Potage au Tapioca. 

4 Ounces of Tapioca. 3 Quarts of Broth. 

To three quarts of broth add, about 
forty minutes before serving, four 
ounces of tapioca. ' The tapioca 
should be previously soaked a few 
hours. Stir frequently in the broth 
while boiling, and serve hot. 



Sngo Soup. 

Potage au Sago. 

3 rints of Eroth. 
2 OLnues of Sago. 

The sago should always be soaked 
overnight. Allow two ounces to 
every three pints of broth or Con- 
somme. Boil for one hour before 
serving, stirring occasionally. 

Rice Soup, 

Potage au Riz. 

1 Half Cup of Rice. 
3 Piuts of Bi-otu oi- Consomme. 

Prepare the clear Pot-au-Feu or 
ConsommS. Wiren nearly done add 
one naif cupful of rice, whicli has 
been thoroughly washed and dried. 
Cooki for about twenty-five minutes 
longer, or until done, and serve. 

Barley' soup is prepared after the 
same style, using a Clear Bouillon or 
Consommg. 

Okra Soup. 

Potage au P-6vi. 

■ H- 

2 Ppunds of Beef -vvitliout.fat or bone. 

2 Cup" jf Okra, cliopped fine. 

Vi Pound of Butter. 4 Quarts of Cold Water. 

1 Onlpu, ..sliced and cjiopped. 

I ^ Salt and Pepper. 

Cut the beef into small pieces, and 
.seaso,n well with butter, pepper and 
sajt. I'j^y^.it in the soup- kettlie with 
tjie. onion gknd butter, until very 
brown. Then add the cold water and 
let it simmer for an hour and a half. 
Add the okra and let it simmer gent- 
ly for three or four hours longer. 

Ox-Tail Soup. 

Soupe de Queue de Boeuf. 

■ ■ ■ 1 Ox Tall. 

A Bunch of Soup Herbs. 1 Head of Celery, 
4 (Juarta of Boilins Water. 1 Large Oniuu. 
2 Carrots. 3 Cloves. 
' A Mpris of Parsley. 

A Small Slice of Lean Ham or Beef. 
Salt and Pepper. 
Cut the tail in pieces trom the 
joint, - and then cut again into the 
size' of a peanut, or one inch and a 
half in length. Chop the onions 
verj^ fine. Put the onion and a 
tablespoonful of lard into a frying 
pan and add the ox tail. Cook slow- 
ly until it begins to brown, then add 
the carrot, cut in pieces about the 
size of a green pea, and about a 
sauare inch of ham, chopped very 
fine. Let this brown, and. when it 
begin.s . to, brown nicely, add the 
thyme, ■' bay leaf,- three cloves, one 
clove- .ol garlic, all chopped very fine. 
Let this continue to brown, being 
careful hot to burn, and then add 
one tablespoonful of flour, dredged in 
lightly and stirred, and when all is 
nicely browned, add about five quarts 



of Consomme, if you have it; if not, 
Ave quarts of boiling water and 
three tablespoonfuls of barley. Let 
it cook together about four hours, 
simmering gently, seasoning with 
salt, pepper and cayenne to taste, 
and when ready to serve, add two 
tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. Serve 
one joint to each person. Wine may 
be omitted. 

Noodle Soup. 

Pctage au Nouilles. 

3 Qu'arts of Good Bouillon or Consomme. 

The Yolks of 3 Eggs. 

Tlie Whites of 2 Eggs. 

1 Cup of Flour. MiTablespoouful of Salt. 

Prepare a good Bouillon or Con- 
somang. To a quart .,of the soup, 
add noodles made as follows: Beat 
the yolks of three eggs, and the 
white of two together until very 
light; add one cup of flour, one half 
teaspooii- of salt, and mix with cold 
water; making a stiff paste; roll very 
thin; then roll each strip to form a 
tube; cut in strips,- grease and sim- 
mer a few at a time -in boiling salt 
water . for about twenty minutes. 
Simmer the noodles in the soup about 
f.tteen minutes. 

Musliroom Soup.. 

Potage ail Champignons. 

Vi Pound of Good Macaroni. 
>/i Pound of Fresh Mushrooms or a Halt 
Can of Mushrooms. 
^ Carrot and Onion. 
", Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
. - 2 Pints of Consomme or Bouillon. 
1 Pint of Cream. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 
- Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Break the macaroni into pieces of 
about three inches; wash and put in- 
to a stewpan, with two quarts df 
boiling water; add three teaspoonfuls 
of salt. Let the macaroni boil half 
an hour, and meanwhile make a 
sauce. Put the butter and flour in 
a small stewpari and beat to a cream. 
Then add the chopped onion, carrot 
and pepper, and remaining salt and 
broth, and heat slowly. When the 
sauce begins to boil, set it . back, 
-where it will only simmer, for about 
twenty minutes. At the end of that 
time, add the crBam and then strain 
the sauce. Pour the water from the 
-mp-caroni, and in its place put the 
sauce, and mushrooms; cook for five 
minutes, and serve hot. 

The Creole housekeeper never u-Ses 
any iDut a silver spoon in cooking 
fresh mushrooms. If the- spoon is 
darkened, the mushrooms are not 
good. This is an infallible test in 
using. fresh mushrooms. The canned 
French mushrooms are not only the 
best, but the safest. 



16 



Fotage Croupe-au-Pot. 

3 Quarts of Good Consomme. 
10 Pieces of Dried Toast. 1 Carrot, cut flue. 
1 Head of Celery, cut flue. 
1 Turnip, cut flue. 
Potage Croute-au-pot is one o£ 
the most popular and excellent Cre- 
ole soups. Prepare a good co i- 
sommg. In the meantime, parboil ttie 
vegetables in salted boiling water. 
When tender, drain off the water, 
and add to them about two and one- 
half quarts o( the boiling consommfr 
Let them simmer until they are very 
tender. Prepare the toasts and put 
them into a saucepan with enough 
consomme to cover them. Simmer 
gently until the toasts have absorbed 
all the consomme and show signs of 
drying up. Then add a little hot 
consomme, detach them from the 
saucepan, lay them in the tureen and 
pour the soup with the vegetables 
very gently over them. Serve Im- 
mediately- 
Savory Soup. 

Potage a. la Bonne MSnagSre. 
4 Pounds of Lean Beet. 4 Quarts of Water. 
1 Onion, chopped fine. 
3 Sprigs of Parsley. liBny Leaf. 
1 Sprig of Thyme. %Cup. of Rice. 
3 Tablespoonf uls of Oatmeal. ^ • 
1 Tablespoonf ul of Salt.. %■ Teaspoonf-ul of 
Pepper. 
Put the meat in four quarts' of 
cold water -and let it simmer for 
three hours. 

One hour before serving, adl one- 
halt cup of rice, which has been 
soaked in water until soft, and three 
tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, one table- 
spoonful of salt and one-fourth tex- 
spoonful of pepper. Add parsley, 
sprig of thyme and, one onion, 
chopped fine. Boil an houf^ longer 
and serve, very hot. This makes a 
delicious soup. 

Corn Soup. 

Soupe au Mai Tendre. 
6 Pounds of the Lower Bibs of Beef, 
a Quarts of Cold Water. 
1 Quart of Sliced Fresh Tomatoes. 
1 Quart of Corn, sliced from the cob. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
One Pod of Cayenne Pepper, without seeds. 
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. 
Corn soup is one of the most popu- 
lar Creole summer soups. . At this 
season, when corn' and tomatoes are 
plentiful, the following will be found 
not only a delicious, but a highly nu- 
tritive soup: 

Take six pounds of the lower ribs 
of the beef, a quart of sliced fresli 
tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced fro.n 
the cob, six quarts of water, one 
tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, 
and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 



Put the meat'and water Into 9 BOup- 
rot, and as soon as the scum begins, 
to rise, skim carefully. Then add 
the tomatoes and the corncobs. Cook 
for four hours or so longer; then take- 
out the corncobs, and add the corn,, 
cut fine, salt and pepper to suit the- 
taste, adding a pod of Cayenne pep- 
per, without the seeds; cook one 
hour longer and then serve with 
slices of toast bread. 

Tomato Consomni£. 

Consomme de Tomates. 

A Shin of Veal. 

3 Pounds of Shin of Beef. 

8 Quarts of Wo*er. 1 Cup of Tomatoes. 

A Handful of Sorrel (if tomatoes are not 

used.) 

Salt and Pepper. 3 Onions. 3 Leeks. 

10 AUspirp 6 Cloves. 3 Large Carrots. 

1 Head of Celery. 1 Bunch of Parsley. 

A Chicken may be substituted for the Shlu 

of Veal. 

Put the meat and chicken (the lat- 
ter cut up) into a large soup kettle 
and let it come slowly to a boil. Then 
draw it forward, and as it begins to 
boil more rapidly skim as the scum 
rises. After another hour add the 
pepper, salt and vegetables. The 
soup should boil incessantly, but 
gently, for about eiglit" "hours, re- 
quiring in all about nine hours of 
good coofeing. It should, there'fore, 
be put on very early in the morning, 
and, if required, for luncheon, should 
be made the day before. When the 
soup has boiled gently for the pre- 
scribed time take it off, strain Into 
a large bowi and set it away in the 
ice box until the next day, if not for 
immediate use. Then remove the fat 
from the surface, and pour off all 
the clear part into a saucepan and 
boil again for one or two hours. Then 
remove it from the fire. This will 
make a stiff jelly, which will keep 
in "Winter for several days in the ice 
box. It also serves to make a beau- 
tiful Sauce Espagnole, or Spanish 
Sauce. The best way to keep It is 
in earthern pitchers holding from one 
to two quarts, allowing a certain 
quantity for each day. 

This soup requires no artifiuial 
coloring. Use the thick part of the 
soup with vegetables or other pur6e. 

Mock-Turtle Soup. 

Soupe !\ la Tortue. 

1 Calf's Head. 14 Pound of Calf's Liyer. 

5 Quarts of Cold Water. 

Bunch of iSonp Herbs. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs.. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

.1 Gill of Sherry. 1 Bay Leaf. 12 Cloves. 

1 Onion. 1 Lemon. 

4 Level Teaspoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Turnip. 

1 Level Teaspoonful Mushroom Catsup. 

1 Carrot. 

1 Level Teaspoonful Worcestershire Sauce 

Salt and Pepper to Suit Taste 



17 



Select a fine calf's head, not too 
large. If large^ reserve half and 
the tongue and brains to make an- 
other dish. Get the butcher to crack 
the head well and remove the brains. 
Wash ttfe head thoroughly in cold 
water, and then be careful to pour 
boiling water through the nose and 
throat passages u ' '1 they are per- 
fectly clean, and sciuiO out the ears 
thoroughly, washing very clean. 
Einse all well in cold water, and be 
very sure that the head is very sweet 
and clean before attempting to cook 
U. Put the head In a kettle with 
five quarts of cold water, and set it 
over a moderate Are. When it be- 
gins to boil well, skim thoroughly, 
till every particle of scum has been 
taken oft. Then set it back and let 
it simmer until the meat is quite ten- 
der. This will require about two 
hours and a half. Then remove the 
head; take the meat from the bones; 
skin the tongue, and set away to 
cool. Return the bones to the ket- 
tle, with the vegetables, which have 
been washed and cut fine; as, also, 
the spices and the liver. Simmer 
gently again for two hours, and when 
cool, strain. Set aside to cool, and 
Ttrhen the soup is cold, remove all 
the fat. Put the butter in a sauce-,- 
pan and , melt, adding the flour li^il- 
nicely browned, but be careful got 
to burn it. Then add by degrees the 
boiling soup, stirring constantly. 
Boil, -keeping uj) & gentle istir, for, 
about five minutes. Then add the 
meat of the head and the liver, hav- 
inar first cut them into dice, and bring 
to a boil at once. Take the saucepan 
from the fire, and add the catsup, 
salt, pepper and wine. Slice the 
hard-boiled eggs and the lemon and 
place them in the tureen, and pour 
the soup over them and serve. 

If force-meat balls are desired for 
the soup, prepare them as follows: 



Forc^-Meat Balls. 

Chop a half of a pound of beef or 
veal and chopped chicken about an 
Inch in thickness; add a little of the 
liver and tongue of the calf, a. half 
dozen small onions, one tablespoonful 
of sweet marjoram, one grated nut- 
meg, a teaspoonful each of powdered 
black pepper and mace, and a half, 
teaspoonful of cloves (powdered),' 
three eggs, three grated crackers 
(sifted), half a gill of good sherry 
wine, a tablespoonful of butter and 
two teaspoonfuls of salt; chop up and 
mix thoroughly together. Then roll 
in balls and fry slowly In lard or 
butter. Serve with the soup. 



Mutton Droth. 

Soupe de Mouton. 

8 Pounds of the Neck of the Mutton. 

4 Quarts of Cold Water. Vi Cup ot Bice. 

1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

2 Large Turnips. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the neck of the mutton, or 
wipe it with a damp towel, and put it 
into the kettle with the cold water. 
Let it come to a slow boil and skim 
carefully. Cover well and let it sim- 
mer for about four hours. Then re- 
move from the stove and pour into an 
earthern vessel to cool. When cold, 
remove all the fat from the surface, 
or, better still, remove all the fat 
before boiling. Return to the kettle 
and add the rice, the sliced turnip 
and the bay leaf, and season to taste, 
or prepare as in Oxtail Soup. 

Chicken Broth, 

Bouillon de Volaille. 

To make a good chicken broth for 
invalids, take one good large chick- 
en; clean carefully and cut up, being 
careful to mash all the bones with 
an ax. Place in a saucepan of cold 
water, and let it simmer gently for 
four or five .hours, until it is boiled 
down to about twCk; cups of broth. 
It will have a'i-ich, strong color, and 
this broth, seasoned with a little salt 
Etfid pepper, omitting all vegetables, 
mix be taken by the most delicate 
stomachs. 

Chicken ConBomme. 

Consomme de Volaille. 

1 Large Chicken Cut in Pieces. 

1 Onion. 3 Quarts o£ Cold Water. 

1 Small Stalk of Celery. 

1 Carrot. 1 Turnip. 

Salt and Pepper, 

Put the chicken into the salt and 
wrater and let it simmer gently until 
the scum begins to rise; then skim. 
Add the other ingredients. Boil gen- 
tly for two hours, and serve, with 
slices of toast. The chicken left 
over will serve to make croquettes, 
or chicken salad. Nothing is ever 
wasted in a well regulated house- 
hold. 

Gilt-Bdged Consomme. 

Consomme Dor§. 

1 Fine Chicken. 1 Good Soup Bone. 

1 Slice of Fine Ham. 

1 ftaUoGof Water. 

2 Eggs, whites and shells. 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 

% Each of Small Parsnip, Carrot and 

Head of Celery. 
1 Onion. 3 Cloves. iSalt and Pc-pper. 

Have the fowl thorouhly cleaned, 
and put the chicken, beef and ham 
into a kettle of cold water of the 
quantity mentioned in the above, and 
boil slowly for five hours, being care- 



18 



ful to keep the pot well covered. 
Chop the onion and vegetables and 
fry them in a little butter, and add 
all the seasonings to the soup. Boil 
two hours longer, and set a'way over- 
night in an ice box. The next day 
remove all the fat; from the top take 
out the jelly, leaving the thickest 
part o£ the sediment, which is good 
to put into a thick soup. Mix in the 
shells and the whites of eggs and 
boil quickly for about ten minutes. 
Then set it on the hearth to settle. 
Pour the soup through a thin bag 
without squeezing; if it does not 
come out perfectly clear, pass it 
through again. It should then be a 
beautiful golden-brown color. Only 
the brightest aiid cleanest of kettles 
should be used, and the sieve should 
be scalded each time to keep the par- 
ticles froin washing back Into the 
soup. This is a delightful soup for 
luncheons and dinner parties. It 
may be garnished according to taste, 
serving with "Croutons," or Que- 
r.elles. No artificial, coloring should 
ever be used, in making the Con- 
sommg DorS. Depend upon the na- 
tural ingredients for the golden- 
brown color so much admired by all 
chefs. , ■__ 

Coii!ioiumg"Wi<ii Poached Bggs. 

Consommg aux Oeufs Pochfis. 

6 Eggs. 
3 Quarts of, Consoujme or Bouillon. 
Break the eggs and drop them one 

by one into boiling salted water, be- 
ing careful not to allow the water 
to boil when once the eggs are in it; 
but have the frying pan, which Is 
always best for poaching eggs, to one 
side of the stove, and cook slowly 
until the eggs are firm. When firm, 
carefully remove with a spoon or 
perforated skimmer, the latter being 
best, and lay in cold water for a mo- 
ment, until the edges are trimmed 
evenly. The boiling water tends to 
make the edges ragged, and eggs 
served in this slovenly manner £^re 
not tempting. Transfer to the tur- 
een and pour the boiling soup very 
gently into the tureen and serve. 
One egg and about a half pint of 
broth should be allowed to each 
person. 

Ciueen Soup. 

Potage a la Reine. 

1 Chicken. 14 Pound of Bice. 

V2 Pint of ■ Cream. 

V4 Blade of Mace, , 1' Sprig of Thyme. 

4 Sprigs of Parsley. 

2 Quarts of White Veal Broth. 

Salt and Pepper. 

Take a fine large chicken, clean it 
nicely and put it whole into a pot 
containing about' five quarts of water. 
Add chopped onion, thyme, bay leaf. 



one carrot, a small bunch of celery, 
and one cup of rice. Let the chicken 
simmer well, for about four hours, 
and, when weU cooked, take out the 
chicken from the broth. Cut off the 
white meat and cut .it into pieces 
about the size of dice. Then strain 
the broth, mashing the . rice well. 
•Make a purfie by taking another 
saucepan, .putting, in one .tablespoon- 
ful of butter and one of fiour, letting 
it melt .together without browning. 
Moisten this well with the soup and 
a glass of milk,, and season with salt 
and pe.,pper., and one-quar.ter of a 
gratedj nutmegv.and add to the broth. 
Then add the chicken, which has been 
cut up. Put in •theture.en little dice 
of croutons of bread fried in butter. 
Pour the soup oyer and serve hot. 
The remainder of the chicken is used' 
to make Chicken Croquettes, Chicken 
Salad, etc. . . 

J Giblet Soijp. 

Pdtage a I'Bssetlpfe de .Gesier. -' ' 

1 Hard-Boiled Yolk for 'Each-Person."" 
" 2i' C-'ps of iJBScken Broth. 

3 Quarts of Boiling Water Or Broth. 
1 'Onion, Carrot and Vi Turnip, chopped. 
-2 Tablespoonfuls of Port or- Madeira "Wine. 
Parsley; ■ :.'■■ 

J \ Jnice of 1 Leffnon. 

1 Leaf^J59ch of Sage and Bay... j.. 
1 T^lespqonful^o^jB'Iour and-1 of Buffer. 
The Giblets, ljearj,,f,iver, etc., of Two i,ur- 
- ..>-j^ .4j£eys[ or TTour Chickens. 
Chop 'the onion fl^ne and^ put it into 
the stcwpan with 'the' butter; let it 
brown, and then-add the chopped veg- 
etables, whole giblets, etc; fry until 
nicely browned; but do not let it 
burn. -Then silt the giblets with a 
knife, that the juices may run out 
in boiling, and put all into- the soup 
■ kettle, with pepper, salt, sage, par- 
sley, and the three quarts of con- 
sommfi or boiling Water. Add bones 
Or lean meat, cooked or raw, that are 
left, preferably the meat of the chick- 
en, and let all simmer for five hours. 
Then strain. Mash o"ne liver fine and 
add it to the broth; season with Ca- 
yenne pepper, lemon juice to taste, 
and two tablespoonfuls of Madeira 
or Port wine. Boil three minutes, 
and have in the tureen one hard- 
boiled yolk of an eg-g for each per- 
son. Pour the soup over it and serve 
hot. 

Rabbit Soup, 

Potage de Lap'in; 

2 young Babbits.' 
2 Quarts of Cold 'Water. 'l Onion. 
• 1 Bay I,eaf. :•.- 
. 1 Blade of ilaee.. 1 , Tablespoontul of Batter. 

Vi Cup of Rice. 
Cajenne Pepper, % Pod. Salt to the Taste. 

This is a famous Creole soup. The 
rabbits should be well skinned and 
singed. Wash thoroughly in warm 



,19 



water; this is. very important. Then 
cut the meat into small' pieces and 
put Into the soup pot, with the quan- 
tity of water given. Chop the onion, 
mace and bay leaf and add. Place on 
a very moderate flre, and let it sim- 
mer gently until the meat has grown 
very tender. This will require about 
two hours. or less. Add the salt, pep- 
per and rice, and sdmmer for an hour 
longer. Pour into the tuseen over 
croutons and-serve. The Creol-es add 
two taWespObnfuls of sherry or port 
wine, thus increasing the delicacy of 
the flavor. " 

iSqnirrel Soup. 

Potage d'E<yjreil. . 

"When squirrels are used the gray 
Louisiana squirrel is best. Venison 
may be substituted for. sCfUi-rrels. 
Prepare as for Rabbit: Sonp. - 



.Pepper Pot,; 

Pot de Poivres. 



/'.. 



.a-iPomid Qt Plain Tripe. 2 Potatoes. 

■t Pound of ■ Honeycomb Tripe. 
Sprig of Parsley.. 1 Knuckle of Veal. 

3 Quarts of Cold Water. ... 



1 Hero Bouquet. 1 Onion. 

2 Teaspo.onfiit^ of Flour. '\ 
2 Tublespoonfals of Butter. '- ■ 
' ' Cayenne to' Suit tiio-Tatite.' 1?^' '-■■'•■' 
Bait anil I'eiJpor. /' ^ . 

The knuckle of the veal, is u best 

for this. Wash and .pijt into the soup 

kettle, covering with, watep ar^d .bring 

it to a slow. boil.'- Carefully skim off 

the-'scum. Let it simmer .gently for 

three, hours.i- The. j tripe- should be 

prepared, th? .^ay ,.■ before, jyash it 

thoroughly in cold water and boil 

.for ab.c>nt sey^n hours. Put. away in 

ttte jce,box:till n.eede^._ ..Chop the par- 

tSley and hqrbs- fine and.; pn;e.-half of 

, the ^r^_d pepper podj and,a4,d.!to the 

bpiling knupkle of xeal, .and. also the 

■ potatoes; which, hg.ve,.,b§ej!», jcut into 

dice. Cut up the tripsi.iinto'. pieces 

of about one inch square. Take out 

the knuckle of: veal;.a,Ti'd cut aap meat 

iato ■' small . pfebes,, and- add"aU; .with 

.the tripe to.the saiip. .-jAt-tiie' boiling 

.poipit, season witoiBa'Wxand' pepper. . 

'''•" TAe.',.Creoles' sfeV-ve'/thls 'gbnp" -With 
■Croil'toris. ■ 'Throw -tMetti 'Into the 
soupi' I'st it slm.tnef' for 'about ten 
minutes, morS and shi'v^:'-- ' ''" 



CHAPTER IV. 



Soupes" d 



SOUPS.' ■•' 

e Poi'ssons.- 



Under this heading come some of 
the most delightful Creole soups, such 
'as Gr6en Turtle Soup, Oyster Soup, 
Crawfish Bisque, etc. These not only 
■'serve as fast-day soups, but are con- 
"sidered elegant introductions to the 
hiost rScherchS feast. 

Fish Soup. 

, Bouillon de Polsson. 

' G Siives of Pish' of Almost Any Variety. 

X '' -'4 Onions, Chopped Fine. 

€>-Tomatoes, Chopped Fine. 

1 Herb Bouquet. Sprig of Parsley, 

1 Glass of White' Wine, 

4 Tablespooutuls of Salad Oil. 

4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

3 Pints of Water. 

'ChOjP "the onions and fry them in 
the salad 'oil. Cut the tomatoes fine 
and add' onions, and put in all the 
other ingredients, except the fish, 
adding the fiour to make a good roux. 
"When brown add the water, and, af- 
ter it has boiled about a halt hour, 
add the slices of fish. "When they are 
firm remove the herb bouquetr add 
Cayenne pepper, and salt and: pfirp- 
per to taste, and serve the.fl'shit'SDup 
in a. tureen, pouring it over CTJUSts.'of 
dried toast. - 



Green' Turtle Soup.' 

S-oupe'a.Ja Ijbrtue... 



2 Pounds of Turtle Meat,, or a Z-Pound Turtle. 

Z^'Fiiie Large Onioiis. ' ' C Cloves. 

1 Square inch Of Ham. 'ti Allspice. 

2 ClOTes -Of Garlic. 

2 Tablespoonfuls- ot Flour. 

% -of ti Small Lemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

1 Glass ot Sherry .Wine. 

Parsley, Tliyme, .Jiay Leaf. 

iSalt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

The Creoles pride themselves upon 
their, famous "Soupe si la -Tortue," 
and justly; the old saying that only a 
good- Creole cook knows how-to make 
a -good Turtle Sotip being testified to 
by ! epicurean - visitors ' frotii every 
country. -.i '■■•'■' '''•'• 

The following 'is One ''of''the sim- 
plest and best ways of 'tn'aking'' Tur- 
tle Soup — a recipe that 'may-always 
be belied upon and -one that' hSlfe -been 
used from ggneratfSn "to generation 
ill the-'Hiost'aristocrati'c Creole homes: 
-' 1-ri- making Turtle Soup, remember 
that Green Turtle is always the best 
for' this purpose. Select tvo pounds 
of fine Green' Turtle meat, if the tur- 
tle' is not bought whole. This 
amount Will make a soup for six per- 
sons. Increase proportionately. If 



20 



the turtle is bought whole, first cut 
oft the head. To do this properly, 
the turtle should be hung with the 
head downwards, and a very sharp 
knife should be used to cut off the 
head as close as possible. Often for 
hours after this operation is per- 
formed, the turtle will exhibit extra- 
ordinary signs of life, the flesh quiv- 
ering constantly. The old CieOli 
cooks say that a turtle never dies, 
but Liiis is a darky tradition. To re- 
move the shells, first separate the up- 
per from the lower shell, always be- 
ing exceedingly careful to avoid 
touching the gall bladder, which is 
very large. If this bladder is pene- 
trated, the contents running over the 
turtle meat would render it utterly 
unfit for use. 

Clean the turtle and the entrails by 
cutting open and washing thoroughly 
in cold water. Then put the meat 
and entrails into a saucepan and par- 
boil about ten minutes. Be careful to 
save this stock of water. Chop an 
onion very fine, and the ham into 
very fine pieces. Cut the turtle meat 
into one-inch pieces, mash the cloves 
and the allspice very fine and chop 
the thyme and bay leaf. Brown the 
onions in a taWesMonful of butter 
er lard, and add Imnilrtiiafely the tur- 
tle meat. Brown™ together slightly 
and after minutes add the chopped 
ham. Let this' cpfttinue browning- 
and then add twS"" cloves g^' garlic; 
chopped fine, and the thy^ije, bay 
leaf (minced fine), cloves Eyh4 all- 
spice (ground), all mix^d,;fSpgether^ 
and lay on the turtle. Stir^lhis al- 
most constantly to prevent 'burning, 
and add two tablespoonfuls of flour 
that has been well rubbed, stirring 
constantly all the time. Then dis- 
solve the meat with the water in 
which the turtle was parboiled, add- 
ing gradually until a certain consis- 
tency is reached. About three quarts 
of water will be the required amount. 
Season this with salt, black pepper 
and Cayenne to taste, and boil slowly 
for fully an hour, stirring al-nost 
constantly. After cooking one hour 
taste, and if not seasoned sufficiently 
season again and taste. Then chop 
one-quarter of a small lemon and put 
It in the soup. Let it continue to 
cook, and when well done— that Is 
when no blood exudes from the tur- 
tle after sticking it with a fork- 
pour into the tureen. Add the whites 
and yolks of two hard-boiled esgs 
chopped fine, and one good glass of 
Sherry wine, and the soup Is ready to 
serve. This is a dish fit for a king 
and IS most highly recommended as 
a genuine Creole Turtle Soup 

If Quenelles or Forcemeat BUs 
are desired, they may be prepared 
according to the recipe given under 



the heading "Quenelles." (See re- 
cipe, under chapter "StuflSngs and 
Dressings," etc.) 

Turtle Sonp No. 2. 

Soupe a, la Tortue. 

2 Pounds of Turtle Meat. 

% Tablespoonful of Lard. 

14 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

2 Tomatoes. 1 Large Onion. 

1 Sprig of Tbyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clora of Garlic. 

1 Square Incb of Ham. 
1 Dozen Cloves Tied In JIusIin. 
6 Allspice Mashed Fine. 
3 Quarts of Water. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

1 Glass of Sherry or White Wine. 
Salt and Ca.^enne to laste. 
Clean the turtle and entrails bjr 
cutting open the latter and washing 
thoroughly in cold water. The:i 
put the meat and entrails Into a 
saucepan and parboil them for ten 
minutes. Carefully save this stock 
of water. Chop the onion very fine, 
and cut the ham into very fine pieces. 
Cut the turtle meat Into one-inch 
pieces; mash the allspice very fine, 
and mince the parsley, thyme and 
bay leaf. Then brown the onions in 
the lard and Ijutter. mixed,, and. almost 
Infrifediately add the turtle' meat. 
Brown together for ten minutes and 
add the finely chopped ham. As 
this continues to brown, add the 
cloves of garlic, (minced flne)^ the 
thyme and bay leaf and the ground 
allspice. Mix all together, stirring 
almost constantly to prevent burn- 
ing. Then add the weU>-rubbed table-- 
spoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly. 
Scaldii^nd skin the toi&toes and chop 
them fine, and add to the turtle meat. 
When well-browned, pour over three 
quarts of the water In which the tur- 
tle was parboiled, season with salt 
and pepper and Cayenne to taste, anJ 
let it boil slowly for fully an hour, 
stirring frequently. After one hour, 
taste the soup, and, if not sufficiently 
seasoned, add seasoning of salt, pep- 
per and Cayenne again, according to 
taste. Let it cook for an hour longer 
and then take off the stove if the tur- 
tle IS thoroughly done. This may be 
ascertained by sticking it with a 
fork. If no blood exudes, the soup 
IS ready to serve. Take off the stove 
and strain through a colander Into 
the tureen. Add the wiiues and yolks 
of two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, 
and one good glass of Sherry or 
White Wine. Slice a lemon fine and 
add to the soup and serve hot. 

How to Serve Turtle Sonp. 

(^^''fu* '^^"^ should be taken In serv- 

mmd that boiling the soup a second 
time, or warming it over, deprives It 
Of much Of its delicious Sr To 
avoid this, mi.two tureens wUhbon- 



21 



ing water; let them stand a few min- 
utes, then dry the inside thoroughly 
and place the tureens in a "bain- 
marie," or a hot-water bath. Fill 
the tureens with the soup and cover 
tightly. Bring them to the table as 
needed, throwing in Just before serv- 
ing, some dainty slices of lemon. It 
the meat is served, use only the most 
delicate portions. 

1 

Mock EgKs for Turtle Soup. . , 

Should the turtle possess no eggs, 
the following method of making 
mock eggs is often used. Break and 
beat thoroughly one fresh egg; then 
take the yolks of three hard-boiled 
eggs, and rub them into a fine paste 
with about a teaspoontul of butter. 
Mix this with the raw egg and roll 
into pellets of the identical size and 
shape of the turtle eggs, let them He 
in boiling water about two minutes, 
and then drop into the soup. 

Terrapin Soup. 

Soupe a. la Tortue. 

1 Two-Ponnd Diamoad-Back Terrapin. 

2 Fine Large Onions. 6 ClOTes. 
1 Square Inch of Ham. 6 Allspice. 
^ of a Small Iiemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 
-:. 1 Glass ot Sherry Wine. 

Parsle.r, Thyme aiid Bay Leaf. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Remember always that the land 
terrapin is unfit to eat. The fre^sjjr 
water -t^i*apin cari'''"*Sfe^mad«''- into a 
most relishable article of food if 
cooked according to Creole methods. 
The diamond-back terrapin is the 
bbest and the females make the finest 
•and daintiest food, the males being 
not only of inferior size, but of far 
less delicate flavor. Terrapins must 
always be bought alive. They are in 
season from November till March, 
and, like all other fish, should not 
be eaten out of season. The red leg 
Or fresh-water terrapin, or the ter- 
rapin of common variety, called 
"Gopher," are eschewed by the Cre- 
oles, but are good to eat. To have a 
good terfapin soup th& diamond back 
must be used. 

To make the soup, clean the terra- 
pin as you would a turtle. Then 
place in a kettle and boil till tender. 
Take out and cut Into small pieces, 
saving the water. Proceed as for 
Turtle Soup. When it boils up take 
from the fire, add a grated nutmeg, 
a glass of Sherry or Madeira wine 
and serve. The fare! or forcemeat 
balls is made in exactly the same 
manner as for Turtle Soup. Serve 
with green pickle and delicate slices 
. of fried toast. 



CrawfiHh Bisque. 

Potage a, la Bisque d'Bcrevisse. 

8 Dozen Fine Large Crawfish. 

3 Onions. 1 Carrot. 1 Bunch of Celery. 

2 Spiigs ot Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 

4 Sprigp jf I'nrsley. 6 Cloves. 

2 Blades of Mace. j 1 Clove of Garlic. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 

A Dash ot Cayenne. 1 Seedless Cayenne Tod. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

k>rawflsh Bisque is a distinctive 
Creole luxury. It is prepared as fol- 
lows: 

Take about eight dozen fine, large 
crawfish and wash thoroughly, being 
careful to cleanse of every particle 
of dust or sand. Set to boil in about 
a gallon of water. "When boiled, take 
the fish out of the water; save the 
water. Pick out two dozen ot the 
largest crawfish; pick out the inside 
of the tails and save the heads, clean- 
sing them of every particle of meat. 
Set this meat to one side with the 
shells of the head. Pick the meat 
from the rest of the crawfish, saving 
all the shells. Take one large onion, 
a carrot, a bunch of celery, a sprig ot 
thyme, one bay leaf, three sprigs ot 
parsley, six cloves and two blades of 
mace, one clove of garlic; chop all 
very fine and put into the pot of wa- 
ter in which the crawfish were boiled. 
Add all the picked meat, except the 
reserved tails, and all the shells 
of the bodies and heads, except 
the reserved heads. Add one 

cup of rice and let it all boil 
tiU 'the mixture becomes thick and 
wnishy. -"When it Is well cooked, take 
it oft the Are and mash the sheila 
thoroughly, and the meat also, and 
strain all through a sieve. Take 
about a tablespoonful of butter and 
two quarts of oyster liquor and add 
this to the soup, seasoning to taste 
with Cayenne, salt and black pepper. 
Set to boil slowly. In the meantime, 
take the reserved crawfish ment and 
make a stuffing as follows for the 
reserve heads; chop an onion very 
fine and let it brown in a tablespoon- 
ful ot butter. Squeeze thoroughly a 
cup of breacj wet with water. When 
well squeezed, mix with a little milk, 
sufficient to make a paste, season to 
taste and mix with the well-seasoned 
crawfish meat. Chop another onion 
and put in melted butter, and add the 
crawfish stuflUng. letting all fry about 
ten minutes, adding. In the meantime, 
a finely-chopped sprig each ot thyme 
and parsley and a bay leaf, and mix- 
ing thoroughly. Take off the fire 
and stuff the reserved head of craw- 
fish. Put on every stuffed head a dot 
of butter, and set In the oven and 
bake ten minutes. Place the stuffed 
heads In the tureen and pour the 
soup over. Serve hot with CroQtons 



22 



of buttered' toast, passing the latter 
in a sep.arate /I'Sh. i 

' CrawiftisU Soup. 

pQtage d'fiQrevisses. 

60 Prne, Large Crawflsb. 

IM Pouiids o£ a Fillet of Veal. 

1 Slice ()£ Ham. 

1 Herb Bouquet. - 1 Halt Can" of Mushrooms. 

2 Tablespoon Culs of Klour. 

2 Carrots. 1 Talilespoonful of Butter. 

1 Clove,. o£,pailic. U-arge O.nion. 1 Parsnip. 

1 D,ozeh Almonds. 1 t)ozen Allspice. - .' 

4 Shallots-.' 6 Tomatoes or a Half Can. . 

Croutons. 

Wash the tr^Wflsh thoroughly Aver 
and-,,over''a^ain to take a.way every 
particle'' of dust. "Then l)6il them in 
plain Water. S'av^" the water. Take 
out't.he ctawfisli 'and take off a.ll the ' 
shells, ■ putting the meat aside. 
Pound the. shells, fine; pouijd one doz- 
en almonds flSe^jand mix thoroughly 
with 'the meat of thfe crawfish, and, 
pound, this in a mortar, In the 
meanwhile, talte one pouhdahd a lia.l| 
of a fllSt [Of vfeal aup'ra ^j'Tpe of ba.^t 
and cut -in smaYl pieces. '"Cut up,..tiie 
onion^ 'carrots and parsnips. Put' one 
tablespoonful of lard in a kettle, and 
wheh'it ?^egins to heat, add the herb 
bouquet (sweet basil, parsley; ' bay 
leaf), the onions, jigirsnip, shallots," 
clove of garlic, chopped fine; as these 
brown, add the veal' and ham. Add 
two tablespoonfiiis of floiir g,nd butter, 
rubbed, and the mushrooms, chopped 
finely. Let these simmer' for about 
five minutes and then add the to- 
matoes, allspice and cloves. After 
ten minutes, when the ' mixture is 
well browned, add the pounded craw- 
fish shells and the pounded meat and 
almonds. Pour over all the water 
from the boiled crawfish and set it 
back on the stove and let it simmer 
for about two hours. Skim off all 
the' grease when near time for serv- 
ing. -Then strain through a sieve, 
and serve with Croflfons of toast, out 
in"slices, placed' In the bott,o.Ti Of the 
tureen. ■"•■•: ■ ■ i' .■ 

On fast, ■ days, instead' of . <the ' -Wral' 
and ham, sbljstitute butten-'and lard,' 
making,, a" Roux (see", ceolpe), and 
moistening a little with the stock of 
the crawfish. T*hen proceed as above 

Rice or Cl^oQton sdiiiJ is rendered 
delicious by ' introdticing' ■ a small' 
quantity of the broth of the craw- 
fish. The broth is also used exten- 
sively by the Creoles in seasoning 
ragoflts on fast days, and hot pies, 
such as pates de foies gras; also 
such entremets as caulifio-wer, arti- 
chokes, etc. The chief 'essential in 
making the broth is to ' h'av^ it -'of 
the right consistency, aiid to skim 
carefully of all ; the" gfeasi before 
sti-aining. Go6d jud^iiient must "be' 
the guide of the co'ok in s'eeking' the 
proper cbrisistency. 



byster Soup. 

Soupe aux Jrl'ultre's. - " ''• , 

4 Dozen, Larse, Fresh O.TSters, ; , 

1 Quart of" KIch Milk. The Oyster Liquor,; 

1 Tablespoonful of Bptter. , 

3 Sprigs of I'arslej-, Chopped Fine.' 

1 Dozen Pepper Corns. ■ 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

In purchasing the oysters always 
be careful to make the vendor add 
the oyster juice when intended for 
soup. In making good oyster soup 
the Creoles never use any water,, but 
the liquor from the oysters. Drain 
the oysters through a colander and' 
set them over the ice box tor.kgep 
fresh and cold. Strain tJje liquor, 
and put it into a soup kettle, adding 
tne chopper parsley and, the .pepper- 
corns. Let it come to a boil. ,Iij the. 
meantime, boil the milk separately in 
a saucepan, as boiling the • yn^lk and 
oyster juice together is. ^ likely, to 
curdle the milk. . "When the milk 
comes to a boil, add to the oyster 
juice and put in the tablespoonful of 
butter. Some thicken the soup by 
adding a tablespoonful of corn starch, 
rubbing it int'd' the flour- before put- 
ting it in the soup. But this , is a 
matter of taste. If the iiiilk is rich 
and good, the soup will require no 
thickening, and is far. daintier with- 
out it. Stir the soup constantly" at 
this point, throwing in- the' oysters 
and continuing to stir until It comes 
to a boil again. Under no circum- 
stances allow the oysters to boil, as 
that destroys their flavor and makes 
them tough and indigestible. But 
one must be also careful, to see that 
they are steamed throug-h' and' 
through, and then they are deligihtiful' 
and pal-alable. The crowrcinfe ta-fc' 
umphl in making oyster soup is "to 
have the oysters cooked j«st enough.. 
The ruffling of the edges ■ indicates' 
the right condition; at. th is • point the' 
soup must be ser-\red,-.;:immedia:telj!.: 
Serve '-/svith sliced lenlon :anid oys'ter=. 
ox .wafteir cr-ackers. .- SomefaddpAilittlB' 
nutmisg, and mace;; ■and,, Jstillf. flfgaini'' 
some Creoles ,.plat;e ichopp.sdn'Cel'BrjS) 
in exceedingly small >quTmtitles, iaijdT 
a herb bouquet Into the* oyster jmefe, 
being careful to aliow it to i give just 
the desired flavor; and taking it out 
before adding the milk. ■ But this, 
too, is a matter of taste.- Made .-ac- 
cording to the: above -formula., oysteri 
soup is a most delightful dish jahdi 
can be eaten and relished /.hy tlie 
most delicate stomachs.-^ .' ^ cii'/i-.a 
- -"/,' ■'■ — rr^T 

Oyster, Soup Without Milk, ,r.,, 

S,bup? au'x' lluitres a la Cir.^oXe.''. ,'] 
The Creoles have" another, d'ft'lishtr!, 
ful methj}^ of p'veparihg oyster.' n'o'dvu' 
a methoct'ev'ol-s^ed by the pld negro 
cooks of ante-b.eUum dajfs, and stl'lf 
in vogue in the ancient families. 



23 



It Is a eoup made witHouf milk and 
Is prepared as follows: ' Take ' 

4 Dozen BayoUj.Cook Oysters. 

The Oyster Xlquor. 

1 Large Onion. . 1 'Tablespoonful of Lard, 

■ ■ 2 Tablespoonfuls ol Siltea Flour. 
4 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tatilespdonful o£ Butter. 
1 Quart of Boiling Water. 

Put the tablespoonful of lard into 
the soup kettle. Have ready one on- 
ion, some parsley, chopped very fine. 
When the lard is hot, stir in two 
tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and 
make a Brown Eoux (see recipe), 
stirring coiistantl-y to prevent, burn- 
ing. Wherl. the .' Roux, is ot a light 
brown color,' add the chopped onions 
and parsley, continulrig to stir, being 
exceedingly careful to avoid the sem- 
blance of burning. Strain the oys- 
ter juice of about-four dozen oysters 
into the Roux, mixing .thoroughly, 
to avoid bits of shell; mix with about 
a quart of boilings water :and pour 
Wh-en it shows -signs.- of coming to a 
boil, add the oysters and a teaspoon- 
ful of butter. At the boiling point 
remove from. tk;e ■stove aiKd serve with 
oyster soda, qraxskerg. or' dry toast, 
the oyster craokersrtbsing always pre- 
ferable. ' .'.r; : :.'' 

This form of sjouprma-y be improved 
by usiag.. the. .milk ins'teadol the hot 
Di.ater, but neither isteSK'JS) very, pal- 
. ... ■.-. ..it* ui' 



atable and a great favorite as a 
fast-day soup. 

Crab Soup. 

Potage de Crabes. 

1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 6 Hlpe Tomatoes. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 of Sweet Marjoram. 

1 Largo Onion. 1 Clove^of Garlic. 

. 1 Tcaspoonful of B'uft^i^' 

2 Tablespoonfuls (level) of Lai'fl'. 

1 Lemon. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayegue. 

Cleanse the crabs thoroughly and 
extract, all the meat ffom the body 
and claws; sca)d and skin the toma- 
toes, and squeeze, the pulp from the 
seeds and juice; cl^op very fine. Pour 
boiling water over- the seed and juice 
and strain. Chop the^oniort and gar- 
lic and stew with the' tablespoonful 
of butter and lard.. 'A's they begin 
to brown, add the tdm&.to'es, cover, 
and, after simmering k few miftutes, 
add the well-seasoned meat' of the - 
crab. Sift oyer this s6me grated 
bread or crackers and season with 
Cayenne, sweet marjoram and thyme. 
Pour in tomS,to w'ater and- add about 
a quart or more' 6f water,' arid let it. 
boil mo'derately for about an hour. 
Add the juic^' bf two.' lenibiis a:nd 
serve." '■ ' ■''' 



;/.J?ttrn. 



CHAPTER V. 



htillEXTEN 



SOUPS. 



Totaiies Maigres. 



The Creoles excel in th.e, prepara- 
tion of soups, T^jt^put meat,, or,, fast- 
day soups, as'',0_^.y, -are. called,. ' The 
ingenuity of '.flie co.ojcs frQ.-n...^ei>era- 
tipn to genftijatf^'p hav.e been ^^.xed In 
the preparafioh 'o.f these soups,, which 
are in great vogue during the Lenten 
season. But many of them, such as 
"Cream of Asparagus Soup," "Cream 
of Celery Sou"p',''',;hg.vf,j jjntered^ into 
the daily life ,of ,'^|ie q^ty, .and,,' .like 
tlis famous Cr,eple Gumbos,"are held- 
as.- dainty .and, 'elegant introductions 
to, the most distinguished feasts. 

.The nutritive, valu«,- of the soups 
without meat cannot be overestimated 
especially thos^r piade with red or 
. white beans,, lentils,, corn, and other 
vegetables,. ., whiose.! -.health-giving 
properties Vape ..beyorid/ -disput^. TO;. 
the. poor e.sp?ci^U3r.,th«y :are TeooniT. 
mended, B0t';^|0iiiliy .oinnthe score of 
economy, but of health as well. 



Fast-Day Pfrotli. 

Bouillon iiiiigre. 

6 Fine Carrots.' 6 Large White Onions. 

G Turuiiis. 

% Pound of Beans or Dried Split Peas. 

1 iSmall Head of Cabbage. 1 ■ Parsnip. 

1 Stalk of Celery. 

4 Sprigs of I'arsleyi- 

% Pound of Butter, or 1 Large Tablespoonful 

ot -.Lard. 

3 'Quarts of Watei'." 

1 Red Popper Pod, Without the Seed. 

Salt and;.Pepperrlo Taste. 

Peel and cut into fine, thin slices 

the oarrot^j, turnips and parsnips; cut 
and chop 'iin&.thgt.Qabbage, celery and 
onions; put.aJl ^'^ ^ saucepan and add 
one glass. o-f5water,. and a quarter of 
a pound of: tiutter, using. the butter 
pr^eyably . to -the lard; add the par- 
sley, chopped very fine; L.et all boil 
till the water has evaporated, and 



2* 



then add one pint of red or white 
beans or split peas, wliich have been 
soalced overnight; add three quarts of 
v/ater and the pepper pfid, and; let, 
all simmer well for three hours. Then 
if the beans are perfectly tender at 
this point, drain or press through a 
colander; return to the fire and add 
the seasonings. Let all bjil up once 
and then serve with Crofltons. Stali 
bread may be utilized in preparing 
the Croutons. A more nutritious 
soup than this cannot be prepared. 

A Summer Fnst-Day Soup. 

Potagre Maigre d'fitfe. 

The Hearts of 6 Lettuce Cut in Pieces. 

2 Large Onions. 

2 Cuc'imbers, Pared and Sliced. 

4 Pinta of Young Green Peas. 

Chopped Parsley. 

3 Lumps of Crushed Sugar. 

V4 Pound of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Chop the vegetables fine and stew 
all together, except the young peas. 
After one hour add the young peas. 
Press tliem through a sigye and p^ 
tulW" all into the watef' in . which 
they have been boiled. Add to this 
the vegetables that have been stewed 
in the butter and simmer about an 
hour and a half. A sprig of mint is 
addeff just before the soup Is taken 
off the fire. This Is a most excellent 
and nsuTtstrfss' soup and is reeom- 
mended to the families of the poor. 

A Winter Fnat-Day Sonp. 

Potage Maigre d'Hiver. 

1 Quart of Dried Peas. 

3 Quarts of Water. 1 Lettuce, Sliced. 

1 Head of Celery. 

1 Carrot. 2 Turnips. 2 Lar^e Onions. 

Handful of Spinacli. 

Sprig Each of Mint, Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Baj Leaf. 

A Tableapoonful of Butter. 

Stew all the vegetables, except the 

lettuce, together, after having 

chopped fine, until thejr"4re perfectly 

soft. Then- return to tlie fire with 

the chopped lettuce, bu:t(^ and sugar. 

Boil quickly about twetfty minutes, 

and serve with Crofltons. 

Vegetable Soap Without Meat. 

Puree de LiSgumes. 

1 Sweet Potato. 1 Bunch of Celery Leaves. 

1 Turnip. 1 Parenlp. 

1 Carrot. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Onions. 

Sprig of Parsley and Thyme. 

I Irlah Potato. 

2 Tablespoonfula of Tlour. 

1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. 

S^, Quarts of Cold Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cut the vegetables Into dice and 

boil until thoroughly tender in about 

three and a halt quarts of water; 

this will require about two hours. 



Then press the whole through a seve; 
add the remaining water and bring 
to a boil. Then add the butter, 
rubbed smooth with the flour in a 
little rich__ cream, or a little of the 
hot soup. A gill of cream or milk 
added just before serving increases 
the flavor. Boil and stir about two 
or three minutes more and servo. 

Lenttl Soup. 

Potage a. Purge de Lsntilles. 

1 Pint of Lentils. 2 Quarts of Water. 

1 Culm. 1 Small Bunch of Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. 

1 Pod of Bed Pepper, Without the Seeds. 

1 Stalk of Celery, Chopped Fine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the lentils, and, IE dried, 
soak them over night. Drain oft the 
water and put them In a saucepan 
with the cold water. Allow them to 
come gradually to a boil. Then set 
them back on the stove and 
let them simmer gently for 
, about ' two hours. Melt the 

butter in "the saucepan and fry 
in it the minced onion, celery, par- 
sley, thyme and bay leaf, and let 
these brown; then add them to the 
lentils; boil about an hour longer, 
and, if particularly tender, press all 
through a colander. Return to the 
fire and add the seastnrfngs. l>et 
them boil up once and serve witli 
Crofltons. 

Lentils are used constantly by the 
poorer class of Creoles, but they 
onght to be more gen,evaAly used by 
all classes of people. The above soup 
is very palatable and most nourish- 
ing. As an illustration of the nutri- 
tive value of "legumes," as lentils, 
beans and peas are generally called, 
during the Franco-Prussian war the 
Germans, who learned much from the 
French as regards food values, sup- 
plied the German soldiers with a 
kind of sausage called "Erbswurst;" 
this was made of peasmeal and len- 
tils, or the condensed soup mixed 
with a certain proportion of lard or 
bacon, onions, etc., and dried so as 
to be portable. Each sausage was 
a pound In weight, and one consti- 
tuted the ration of a soldier. It was 
easily cooked by boiling in water, or 
it could be eaten cold. This instance 
is given in the hope that, through 
this Cook Book, people mav learn 
how to cook not only palatably and 
well, but also how to live, selecting 
such foods as will give the greatest 
amount of nutriment in proportion to 
the quantity consumed. Lentils, 
peas and beans have been found by 
scientific experiment to possess a 
greater nutritive value than all other 
vegetable foods, since they contain 
more nitrogen than any of the cereals 



and are as rich in carbon as wheateii 
flour. 

Red Bean Soup. 
Pur§ a la CondS. 

1 Pint of Red Eeims. 
2 Quarts of Cold Water. 

1 Minced Onion. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Bay Leaf. 
Bunch of Parsley. Sprig of Thyme. 

Salt and Pepper. 
"Wash the beans and soak them 
Overnight in lukewarm water. Drain 
and put them in a saucepan with the 
cold water. Allow them to come 
gradually to a boil; then set them 
back, and let them simmer gently for 
about two hours. Melt the butter 
in a saucepan and fry in it the onion, 
parsley, thyme and bay leaf until 
brown. Add these to the beans and 
boil about an hour and a half longer. 
If the beans are perfectly tender at 
this point, press the whole through 
a colander. Return to the fire, and 
add the seasonings. Let them boil 
up once and serve with the CroQtons. 
Some think that the flavor is en- 
hanced by beating up an egg in the 
tureen and pouring the boiling soup 
gradually over it, stirring constantly. 
This soup should always be served 
with Crofltons. 

White Benn Soup. 

Potage a la Purfie d'Haricots. 

1 Pint of White Beans. 
2 Quarts of Cold Water. 
1 Minced Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Bay Leaf. Bunch of Parsley. 

Sprig of Thyme. 
Salt and Pepper. 
Wash the beans and soak them 
overnight in lukewarm water. Drain 
and put them in a saucepan with the 
cold water. Allow them to come 
gradually to a boil; then set them 
back and let them simmer gently for 
about two hours. Meli the butter in 
a saucepan and fry in it the onion, 
parsley, thyme and bay leaf until 
brown. Add these to the beans and 
boil about an hour and a half longer. 
If the beans are perfectly tender at 
this point, press the whole through 
a colander. Return to the Are and 
add the seasonings. Let them boil 
up once and then serve with the 
Crofltons. As in Red Bean Soup, a 
beaten egg may be added when about 
to pour into the tureen. First beat 
up the egg and pour the boiling soup 
gradually over, stirring all the while. 

Dried or Spilt Pea Soup, 

Potage a la Purge de Pois Sees. 

1 Pint of Dried or Split Peas. 

1 Quart of Boiling Water. 

1 Small Bunch of Celery. IBunch of Parsley. 

1 Quart of Good Milk or Cream. 

2 Onions. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 



It is always best to soak the peas 
overnight, after washing them in cold 
water and rejecting all that float. In 
the morning drain off the water and 
cover the peas again with one quart 
of boiling water, setting them back 
on the stove and letting them cook 
slowly until tender. Cut up the on- 
ion and parsley and celery into 
fine pieces and add to the 
boiling peas. When perfectly 

tender remove from the stove 
and press through a sieve or colan- 
der and add the salt and pepper. 
Then return the soup to the Are 
and let it boil up once; just before 
serving add the rich cream or milk, 
stirring well. The soup should be 
served with Crofltons or Oyster 
Crackers. White Bean Soup may be 
made in exactly the same manner. 
When not intended for fast days, 
the addition of a ham bone adds 
greatly to the flavor. 

Pur6e of Green Peas. 

Purge de Pois Verts. 

1 Quart of Young Green Peas. 
Bunch of Parsley. 2 Young Onions. 

2 Quarts of Good Milk or Broth. 

Pepper and Salt. 
Cut the onions and parsley flne, 
and boil with the peas until all are 
quite tender, in boiling water, for 
about a half hour. Then drain. Rub 
all through a sieve or colander, and 
add them to the boiling broth or 
milk. Do not allow this to boil 
after adding the peas. Season and 
serve with dainty Croutons. To 
keep hot, stand the soup on a "bain- 
marie," or kettle of boiling water. 

Sorrel Soup. 

Potage a. la "Bonne Femme," ou 

Soupe 3. rOiselle. 
A Small Bunch of Fresh Sorrel. 

3 Quarts of Boiling Water. 

1 Cup of Cream or Rich Milk. 

1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes. 

4 Eggs. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

3 Leaves of Lettuce. 1 Oniou. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. A Pinch of Nutmeg. 

Pepper and Salt to Taste. 

Sorrel Soup, or Soupe a I'Oiselle, 
is a popular Creole soup much prized 
for its cooling properties. The In- 
dians gather near Bayou Lacombe 
the sorrel and^bring it to New Or- 
leans and sell it in the French Mar- 
ket. It is also grown in the home 
garden by many Creoles. The leaves 
only are used in making soup or 
purges. 

Wash the leaves and stem them, 
the entire length of the leaf. Then 
chop them flne until you have . a 
quantity equal to a pint or two tea- 
cupfuls. Chop the other vegetables 
and put these and the sorrel into a 
saucepan with the butter; cover and 



26 



let them stew gently £or ten minutes; 
and then add the flour, which has 
been well mixed with a, little water. 
Pour gradually, stirring always, into 
the tl,i-ee quarts of boiling water. 
Beat the yolks of the eggs and mix 
with a little cream or milk in a 
tureen. Rub the rest of the cream 
of milk smooth with the mashed po- 
tato and put into the soup; add the 
seasonings. Prepare toast in the 
form of dice, rubbing them first 
"With the raw onion, and pour some 
of the boiling soup over the eggs in 
the tureen and mix very carefully. 
Put in the pieces of toast, and then 
add the remainder of the soup. Cover 
and stand five minutes in a warm 
oven, and serve hot. 

Potato Soup, 

Potage Parraentier. 

8 Potatoes. 2 Onions, Cut Fine. 

1 Cup of Cream or Rich llilk. 

1 Pincli of Grated Nutmjeg. 

1 TailespoontuI of Butter. Pepper and Salt. 

After washing and peeling the po- 
tatoes, put them into a saucepan 
with the onions and add about two 
quarts of cold water. Bring to a 
boil. After allowing to cook abDut 
forty minutes, if the vegetables are 
then very tender, mash and pass all 
through a sieve, and, returning to 
the Are, add the seasoning and but- 
ter. Bring to a boil, and add the 
cream and a beaten egg, serving im- 
mediately with Crotltons. 

Carrot Sonp, 

Potage Crecy. 

4 Large Carrots (tbe redder the better). 

2 Large Onions, Cut Fine. 

1 Quart of New Milk. I Turnip. 

1 Teaspoon of Corn Starcli. 

2 Sticks of Celery. 1 Bay Leaf. 

Sprig of Tliyme. Sprig of Parsley. 

3 Cloves. 

1 Large Teaspoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper and Sugar tn Taste. 
Wash the vegetables thoroughly, 
cutting them fine and bailing until 
tender in three pints of water. Wiie;! 
very soft, mash them and vress 
through a sieve. The cnrrots must 
be mashed very fine. Then return to 
the fire, and, adding about two ciuarcs 
of boiling water, cover and simmer 
gently for a while, adding one tea- 
spoonful of cornstarch that has been 
blended well with a little milk. Add 
the boiling milk and cook for about 
two minutes more, and serve wiLli 
Croatons. (See recipe.) 

Lettuce Soup, 

Potage de Laitues. 

1 Large Head of Lettuce. 

1 Spoon of French Vinegar. 1 Egir. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Gill of Cream. 

1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 

Dices of Stale Bread. 1 Pinch of Sugar. 

3 Quarts of Broth. 



Prepare a good broth and cook till 
it is reduced to three pints; this will 
serve six persons. Chop the lettuce 
fine and stew it with a tablespoonful 
of butter, adding the pinch of sugar 
and one spoon of French vinegar. 
Keep stirring constantly, so that it 
will not burn. Then add the flour 
(which has been rolled smoothly in 
butter), the pepper and salt, throw in 
a dash of Cayenne pepper. Break in 
the egg and stir thoroughly. Then 
pour on the broth. Place the dice 
of bread in the tureen, and add the 
gill of cream to the soup before 
pouring over the bread. 

Okra Sonp. 

Potage de F6vi. 
2 Pints of Olira, or Fifty Counted. 
G Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Onions Chopped Flue. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
3 Sprigs of Parsley. 
2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Loaf. 
3 Quarts of Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed. 
Wash and stem the okra and then 
slice it very fine. Chop the toma- 
toes fine, being careful to preserve 
the juice. Chop the onions fine and 
fry -them in the butter. Then add 
the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley 
and tomatoes and the pepper pod, 
and, after letting it stew about five 
minutes, add the okra, stirring con- 
stantly almost, as it burns quickly. 
When well browned, add the juice of 
the tomatoes. Then add the hot wa- 
ter, and set on the back of the stove 
and let it simmer "well for about an 
hour and a half. Season to taste 
and serve hot, with Croutons. 

N. B. — The housekeeper should al- 
ways remember that okra must be 
cooked in a porcelain-lined pot, as 
iron or other metal tends to blacken 
it. 

Winter Okra Soup. 

Potage F6vi d'Hiver. 

1 Can of Good New Orleans Olira. 

1 Can of Tomatoes. 2 Onions Chopped Fine. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Dozen Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Rice. 

A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed. 

Chop the onions fine and fry theni 
in the butter. Wash the rice well, 
then stew the onions, tomatoes an,l 
pepper together in about three quarts 
of water and one pint of oyster water 
for about three hours, stirring fre- 
quently. Ten minutes before serving 
add the okra and let it come to a 
boil. Then drop in the oysters. Boil 
up once and serve. 

Onion Soup. 

Potage &, rOgnon. 

3 Large Onions. Sliced Very Thin or Chopped. 

V4 Cup of Flour. 

1 Large Spoon of Butter. 

1 Quart of Milk. 

2 Large Potatoes, Mashed Fine. 

Dice of Bread or Toast. 

Salt and Pepper. 



27 



Pry the onions in the butter, until 
reddish brown. Then add the flour 
and stir until browned, gently; do 
not burn. Put the boiling water In 
gradually, stirring perfectly smooth, 
and adding the salt and pepper; mix 
well and boil one minute. Tlien pour 
it into the kettle and set back. Be- 
fore serving, add the milk warmed, 
and rubbed with mashed potatoes 
until they are a smooth paste. Sim- 
mer a few moments. Have the pieces 
of toast ready in the tureen and pour 
in the hot soup. A pur€e of onions 
is made by pressing the ingredients 
through a sieve and returning to 
the Are for a few moments. Servo 
hot. 

Cream of Onion Soup. 

Purge d'Ognons. 

6 Onions. % Ounce of Batter. 
1% Pints of Cream. 2 Ounces of Flour. 

2 Pints of Boiling Water. 
Pepper. Kutmeg. 

Peel the onions and boil In salted 
water until very tender; then drain 
and dry well with a cloth; put them 
on the fire in a saucepan, with one 
ounce of butter; add the other in- 
gredients, except the remaining half 
ounce of butter. When the soup 
comes to a boil, press tiirough the 
sieve, and return to the fire; add the 
remainder of the butter and serve. 
This is a very delicately flavored soup 
for fast days. 

Cream of Tomato Soap. 

Potage aux Tomates. 

2 Quarts of Pure Tomoto Julco. 

1 Gill ot Rice. 3 Onions. 8 Allspice. 

4 Cloves. A Sprig ot Thyme. 

A Pinch ot Sugar to Taste. 

Pepper and Salt. 

Stew the Tomatoes for about two 

hours, and then extract the Juice. 

Add the other ingredients, and boil 

for about an hour and a half; then 

strain. The rice, being creamy, 

should now make the soup as thick 

as cream. Serve with CroQtons or 

Quenelles. (See recipe). 

In the summertime, when tomatoes 
are so plentiful in New Orleans, this 
is not only one of the most delightful 
but one of the least extravagant 
cream soups that can be made. 

Cream of Celery Soup, 

Potage a. la Cr^me de Celeri. 

Celery Stalks. 2 Qnarts ot Milk or Cream. 

2 Tablespoonfnls of Flour. 

1 Pint of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

^ Small Onion. 

Salt a.nd Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the celery and onion and cut 

into fine pieces. Then place them in 

a porcelain-lined saucepan and let 

boil for about a half hour. Take off 

and mash, and press through a colan- 



der. Set the milk to boil in a fa- 
rina boiler, and as it heats well, adii 
to it the water and celery that have 
been pressed. Rub smoothly to- 
gether the, flour and butter, and then 
stir into the boiling soup, stirring 
constantly till it thickens to a cream 
of the right consistency. Add salt 
and pepper to taste and serve hot. It 
is very delicious served with slices 
■of delicately toasted and buttered 
Crofltons. Serve on a separate dis!> 
and garnish with sprigs of parsley 
and slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

Cream of Corn Soup. 

Potage a, la CrSme de Mais. 

2 Pints of Grated Corn. 
i Qnarts ot Boiling Water. 
1 Pint of Hot Milk or Cream. 
3 Tablespoon tuls ot Butter. 

2 Level Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

The Yolks of 2 Kggs. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Slit the corn in two and grate 
from the cobs. Put the cobs into tha 
boiling water and let them boil slow- 
ly about an hour, till the water is 
reduced to three quarts. Then take 
the cobs out and drain over the ket- 
tle. Add the corn an^a let it boil till ' 
very soft. This will require about 
thirty minutes. Take the soup off 
and press all through a sieve. Sea- 
son highly and set back to simmer 
gently, adding, in- the meanwhll?, 
the flour and butter, thoroughly 
rubbed together. Stir constantly till 
the soup thickens, and then add the 
boiling milk. Cook a moment only, 
take off the fire, stir in tiie beaten 
yolks and serve hot. with buttered 
toast cut in dice shape. 

Cream of Asparagus Soup, 

Cr^me d'Asperges. 

1 Large Bnncb of Asparagus. 
1 Tablespoontjl ot Butter. 1 Qnait ot Milk. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Rich Cream. 
2 Eveu Table.'ipoonfuls of Flour or 

Corn Starch. 
. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the Asparagus, tie it in a 
bunch and put in a saucepan of boil- 
ing water. Let it boil gently for 
about three-quarters of an hour, or 
until perfectly tender. Take it from 
the water, cut off the tips or points 
and put them aside until wanted. 
Put the milk on to boil in a farina 
boiler. Press the Asparagus stalks 
through a colander, and add them 
to the milk. Rub the butter and 
cornstarch or flour together until 
perfectly smooth, and add to tne 
boiling milk, stirring constantly .till 
it thickens. Now add the Asparagus 
tops, salt and pepper, and serve, 
without CroOtons, as the Asparagus 
tips form a beautiful garnish. 



28 



Cream of Spinach Soup. 

Potage a. la Creme d'Epinards. 

Half a Peek or Four Pints of Spinach. 

2 Ounces of Fresh Butter. 

Two Quarts of Oyster Water. 

1 Teaspoonfnl of Salt. 

1 Teaspoonful of Granulated Sugar. 

^y4 of a Grated Nutmeg. 

Wash and boil one-half peck, or 
four pints of Spinach; this quantity 
will measure about one pint when 
cooked, chopped and pounded into a 
fine paste. Then put it into a stew 
pan with four ounces of fresh but- 
ter, the grated nutmeg and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Let it cook for 
ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add 
to this two quarts of oyster juice (on 
other than fast days consommS may 
be used, or good bouillon). Let all 
boil up, and then press through a 
strainer. Set it over the fire again 
and just at the boiling point ,mix 
with it a tablespoonful of butter, 
and a teaspoonful of granulated sug- 
ar. Serve hot with Croutons. 

Cream of Bnrley Soup. 

Purge d'Orge. 
3 Tablespoonfuls of Barley, or a Half Cup. 

1 Pint of Cream or Milk. 
TLe Yolks of 2 Eggs 3 Quarts of Water 
(boiling). 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Scald the barley and then put into 
a kettle with three quarts of boil- 
ing water and let it boil about three 
hours. Take it off and mash thor- 
oughly, and strain through a sieve. 
Add the hot milk to the stock of the 
barley, season with salt and pepper, 
and let it come to a boil. Take off 
and add the yolks of two eggs. 

Cream of Rice Soup. . 

Cr§me de Riz. 

1 Cup of Rice. 3 Quarts of Water. 

1 Pint of Milk. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Pepper and Salt to Taste. 

Wash the Rice thoroughly, rubbing 
dry. Put it into a saucepan with pne 
quart of cold water; when swelled 
add one quart of boiling water, and 
when it begins to get very tender 
add the remaining quart of boiling 
water. Then add the pepper and 
salt. Take from the fire, mash the 
rice well and rub all through a 
sieve. Beat up the yolks of the eggs 
well with a few tablespoonfuls of 
cream. When quite smooth stir In 
carefully a few spoons of the boil- 
ing rice water, and then pour the 
eggs and cream or milk into the 
saucepan with the rice, which you 
will have returned to the stove. Mix 
briskly and then draw aside and 
stir for two or three minutes, be- 
ing very careful not to allow the 
mixture to boil when once the eggs 



(ivill have been added. Serve hot 
with CroOtons or Crackers. 

On other than fast days this is 
most delicious made with Chicken 
ConsommS. 

Rice Soup, Without Meat. 

Riz au Maigre. 

1 Cup of Rice. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

3 Quarts of Water. 1 Spoon of Butter, 

1 Plat of Milk. Pepper and Salt. 

Wash the rice thffroughly, rubbing 
dry. Put it in a saucepan with one 
pint of cold water; when swelled, add 
one pint of boiling water; and when 
it begins to get very tender, add the 
remaining pint of boiling water. 
Add the pepper and salt. Beat up 
the yolks of the eggs with a few 
tablespoonfuls of cream. When 
quite smooth, stir in carefully a few 
spoonfuls of the boiling rice water, 
and then pour the eggs and cream in- 
to the saucepan, stirring very brisk- 
ly. Draw aside and stir for two or 
tliree minutes, but do not allow the 
soup to boil when once the eggs are 
added. 

Coconnut Soup. 

Potage de Cocoa. 

6 or 8 Calves' Feet. 

^ Pound of Grated Cocoanut. 

1 Gallon of Water. 

1 Pint of Ceam or Rich Milk. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour or Arrowroot, 

3 Ounces of Fresh Butter. 

"" Blades of Slace. 

The Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. 
Scald the calves' feet, and scrape 
thoroughly w^ithout skinning; put 
them into tiie soup kettle with a gal- 
lon of cold water, and cover the ket- 
tle well. Let the feet come to a slow 
boil and skim carefully. Then add 
the blades of mace and let the soup 
boil slowly till the meat is reduced 
to rags and has fallen from the bones. 
Then strain into a white porcelain 
dish or pan, and set it away to cool. 
After it has congealed, scrape oft fat 
and sediment, and a beautiful jelly 
will remain. Cut up this cake of 
Jelly and put it into a thoroughly 
cleansed, white porcelain soup kettle. 
In the meantime grate the cocoanut 
very fine, till about a half pound Is 
on hand. Mix this with the pint of 
rich cream or milk, and add the 
butter which has been rolled smooth- 
ly in the arrowroot or flour. Mix 
this carefully and gradually with the 
calves' feet stock or soup, and sea- 
son with a grated nutmeg. The soup 
should then be set back on the Are 
and allowed to boil slowly for about 
fifteen minutes, stirring almost con- 
stantly. Pour into the tureen and 
serve with French rolls, or milk bis- 
cuit, made very light and thin. On 
fast days omit the calves' feet, using 
another ounce of butter instead. 



29 



The Creoles often serve powdered 
white sugar in gmall plates or in 
salt cellars for those of the company 
who prefer more sweetening. 

Cliestnnt Soup. 

Potage a. la FurSe de Marrons. 

3 Quarts of Oyster Water, or 

A Good Round of Beef or Veal, 

1 Quart of Cliestnuts. 1 Ueib Bouquet. 

Cayenne Feppcr. 

Make a good broth of the veal or 
beef; season with the Cayenne pep- 
per and salt. Follow the rule given 
for making soups, by allowing a 
pound of meat to each quart of wa- 
ter. Skim and boll till the meat falls 
into rags; then strain and put in a 
clean porcelain pot. In the mean- 



time, shell the chestnuts and throw 
them into boiling water until the 
skin comes oft easily. Put them into 
a saucepan with some of the soup wa- 
ter, and boil about thirty minutes, 
till quite soft. Press through a col- 
ander; add butter, pepper and salt. 
Then add to the soup. Make dump- 
lings the size of a marble with fresh 
butter rolled in flour, and add. (See 
recipe for Dumplings.) Boil the 
soup about fifteen minutes longer 
and serve. Some prefer the soup 
without dumplings, thinking It gives 
more of the flavor of the chestnuts. 
On fast days use the oyster water 
instead of the bee^ broth, following 
the recipe in all other particulars, 
and adding a half tablespoonful of 
butter to the purge before pressing 
through the colander. 



CHAPTER VI. 



THE noUILLI. 



"Le Bouilli.' 



Before leaving the subejct of soups 
it has been thought advisable to de- 
vote a short chapter to the "Bouilli," 
or the boiled meat that is usually 
thrown away by other nationalities 
than the Creole and French when the 
"Pot-au-Feu," the "Consommfi" c— 
the "Bouillon" has been completed. 

The Creoles long ago discovered 
or rather brought over , with them 
from the mother country, France, 
the delightful possibilities for a 
good entree that lurked within the 
generally despised and cast aside 
Bouilli, and these possibilities they 
Improved upon in their own unique 
and palatable styles of cuisine prep- 
arations. 

In Prance the "Bouilli" is always 
served at the home dinner, and so 
■with the new France, New Orleans. 
Far from rejecting the "Bouilli" as 
unpalatable and unfit for food, the 
Creoles discovered many delightful 
ways of serving it, and their theorie.< 
of the nutrition that still remained 
in the boiled beef have been sus- 
tained by medical science. The most 
eminent scientists have found by ex- 
periment that while heat coagulates 
the nutritious substances of the beef, 
only a small amount is dissolved 
when the water is heated gradually, 
and that the "Bouilli" is still valu- 
able as an article of food. 

The pleasant ways that the Cre- 
oles have af preparing it restores its 
flavor and makes it a delightful 
accompaniment to even the most 



aristocratic dinners. For breakfast 
the boiled beef left over is utilized 
in various ways. 

The Picayune has selected from 
among many the following recipes 
which need only to be tried to be re- 
peated often, or perhaps daily, in one 
form or the other. 

The recipes for the sauces men- 
tioned will be found in the chapter 
especially devoted to "Creole Sauces." 

Mirontous. 

The Left-Oyer Bouilli. 
3 Large Onions. 6 Shallots, 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 
1 Bay Leaf. 2 Pickles. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
This is a favorite way the Cre- 
oles have of serving the cold bouilli 
that has been saved from the preced- 
ing day: 

Slice the onions fine; brown in one 
tablespoonful of butter. Chop the 
'shallots and add to the onions, tlien 
add the garlic, thyme and bay leaf, all 
chopped very fine, and season witli 
salt, Cayenne and black pepper to 
taste. When the whole is browning 
nicely, add a tablespoonful of flour 
and water, or left-over broth, suffi- 
cient to cover. Season this to taste 
and then take two pickles, about one 
finger long, slice very fine, and add. 
Let all boil about fifteen minutes 
and then lay the cold bouilli, which 
has been thickly sliced, in the sauce. 



30 



Set it to bake in tlie oven about 
t\v"enty minutes. Garnish Willi but- 
tered toast and serve hot. 

Boiled Beef Snut£ Ik la Lyonnalse. 

Bouilli SautS fi. la Lyonnaise. 
The Boullll. 3 Onions. 

] Tablespoonful of Lard. 
: T.'Jblespoonful of Olive Oil. 
1 Tablespoonful of Chili Vinegar. 
The Peel of One Lemon. 
Slice the onions and brown them 
in lard, using about one tablespoon- 
ful. Skim the lard oft the onions 
and put the beef in the pan. Stir 
up and smother. Add the oil, the 
peel of a lemon, cut fine, and the 
Cliili vinegar. Serve hot. 

Boiled Beef H la Bordelnise. 

Bouilli a. la Bordelaise. 

The BonilU. 

H Dozen Shallots. 

1 Glass of White Wine. 

2 Teaspooufuls of Sauce Espagnoie. 

Slice the left-over beef. Then hash 
the shallots into very fine pieces; add 
a glass of white wine, pepper and 
salt to taste, and boil to half the 
quantity over a brisk Are. Then add 
the mashed beef marrow from the 
bone and two teaspooufuls of "Sauce 
Espagnoie" (see recipe), first melt- 
ing the marrow in a little bouillon. 
Stir rapidly over the fire, and as 
soon as it begins to bubble, with- 
draw it and set it back on the stove, 
letting it simmer gently for a quar- 
ter of an hour. Add the sliced beef 
for about ten minutes and then serve 
with Crofltons or fried crusts. 

Boiled Beef Si la Paysaune, 

Bouilli a, la Paysanne. 

The Bouilli. 

5 Large ^Onions. 

1 Tablespoonful of. Butter. 

1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 

1 Wineglassful of Claret. 

A Dash of Mustard and Vinegar. 

Hash the left-over beef, and then 
chop five large onions very fine and 
cook them to a golden brown in but- 
ter. When nearly done, dust over 
them a teaspoonful of flnur and 
moisten with a little red wine. Cook 
the onions till done and then put 
in the cold hashed beef, adding a 
dash of French vinegar and a little 
mustard and serve. 

Boiled B»ef a I'Indlenne. 

Bouilli a. I'Indienne. 

The Bonilll. 

1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Saffron. 

2 Cayenne Pepper Pods. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

% Cup of Bouillon. > 

This is a dinner dish. Crush the 

pods of two Cayenne peppers and a 

teaspoonful of powdered saffron and 



heat and brown in butter. Then 
moisten with a little bouillon. Boll 
the sauce down, and when nearly 
ready to serve, thicken with a little 
butter. Serve in a gravy dish with 
the "Bouilli," which has- been nicely 
and tastefully garnistied with let- 
tuce leaves on a parsley bed. 

Boiled Beef WItli Tomatoes. 

Bouilli aux Tomates. 

The, Bouilli. 

% Dozen Tomatoes. 

2 Cups of Bouillon. 

^i Teaspoonful of Flour. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 

Take a half dozen fine, ripe toma- 
toes, and parboil them in butter, be- 
ing careful not to let them burn. 
Add a pinch of flour and two good 
cups of bouillon, a little salt and 
pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of 
parsley, thyme and bay leaf. After 
two hours, take out the tomatoes 
and allow the beef to cook a few 
minutes in the sauce. Then serve on 
a flat dish, arranging the tomatoes 
around the beef and under each to- 
mato put a nice piece of buttered 
toast. 

Boiled Beef ft la Bmxelloise. 
Bouilli a, la Bruxelloise. 

The Bouilli. 

1 Dozen Brussels Sprouts. 
4 Tablespooufuls of Butter. 

3 Sprigs of Pareley. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Take- about a dozen Brussels 
sprouts and blanch them in boiling 
water. Drain thoroughly and stew 
in butter with chopped parsley. Af- 
ter they have cooked ten minutes, 
take them out of the pah and pirboil 
them in fresh butter, which has been 
melted before the stove. Salt and 
pepper to taste and garnish nicely 
around the bouilli and serve. 

Boiled Beef en Pnplllottes. 

Bouilli en Papillottes. 
The Boullll. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of fintter. 
6 Sausages. (Cbaurlce.) 

2 Eggs. 1 Cup Bi'ead Crumbs. 

4 Sprigs of Paraley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

This is a nice breakfast dish. Take 
the left-over bouilli cut in slices and 
parboil slightly in butter. Make a 
forcemeat or quenelle of pork sau- 
sage, garlic, parsley and moistened 
bread crumbs, add two eggs, salt 
and pepper. Put a layer of this 
"farci" between each layer of sliced 
beef, and, then add the bread crumbs, 
mixed with chopped parsley. Put 
the beef in oiled paper, folded as 
tightly as possible, cook a quarter 



31 



of an hour in the oven and serve in 
the pappillottes (paper.). 

Boiled Beef With Carrot Sauce. 

Bouilli a, la Crfioy. 
The Boullli. 
4 Carrots. 2 Onions. 

1 Gill of Cream. 
2 Sticks of Celery. 
3 Sprigs of I'arsley. 1 Sprig of Tliyme. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to laste. 
Make a good pur§e of fine, red oar- 
rots (see recipe), and then strain in 
butter. Ad'd a gill of rich cream 
and salt and pepper to the taste. Put 
the bouilli in the platter and pour thj 
sauce around it, serving hot just af- 
ter the soup. 

Boilcil Beef ^Vltli Lettuce. 
Bouilli a, la Laitue. 
The Bouilli. 
6 Bead of Lettuce. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 
12 Sausages. (Chaurice.) 
1% Cups Bread Crumbs. 
Salt aud Pepper to Taste. 
Take six fine, firm heads of lettuce, 
strip off all the green leaves, wash 
tlioroughly and soak and blanch in 
toiling water. Then throw them in- 
to cold water. When very cold 
squeeze in a towel till they are thor- 
oughly dry and cut off the stalks 
from below without injuring the 
heart. Fill this open place witli 
forcemeat balls, made Irom the bouilli 
after the recipe already given in 
Boiled ' Beef en Papillottes, that is, 
fry them in lard, with fresh bread 
crumbs soaked in bouillon and 
worked into the meat. Chop up with 
pepper, salt and garlic, and add one 
or two hard- boiled eggs. Tie the 
balls up and cook without adding 
water and fill the heart of the let- 
tuce. This may be served around tlra- 
tody of the bouilli and makes a. beau- 
tiful garnish. 

Bciled Beet ft la Lronnalse. 

Bouilli a, la Dyonnaise. 

The Bouilli. 
6 Sausages. (Chaurice.) 

1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 
2 Eggs. Bread Crumbs. 

^ The Juice of 1 Lemon. 
Make sausage meat of the bouilli, 
adding the pork sausage, garlic, 
parsley and thyme. Moisten some 
bread crumbs in water and dissolve 
over them two eggs, salt and pepper. 
Chop the whole and tie it tightly in a 
cabbage leaf. An hour before serv- 
ing take out the remaining bouilli 
and the farci or stuffed cabbage leaf. 
Let them cool and cut the.m into 
slices and roll these in beaten eggs, 
and then in bread crumbs, and fry 
in butter. Throw over them a dash 
of powdered parsley and squeeze over 
all the juice of a, lemon. 



Boiled Beef Wltli Egg Toast. 

Bouilli au "Pain Perdu." 

6 Slices of Bouim. 
6 Slices of Stale Bread. 
2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Parsley and Lettuce Leaves to Garnish. 
Take left-over or stale bread, slice 
it thickly and dip in cream or milk. 
Then dip it in the beaten whites and 
yolks of egg and fry in butter. Cut 
the bouilli into slices to match the 
bread, dip it in the egg and fry also.. 
Serve on a dish with chopped parsley 
dashed over it and a garnish of pars- 
ley or lettuce leaves. 

Boiled Beef Saut£ With Onions. 

Bouilli Satite aux Ognons. 

The Bouilli. 
3 Large Oulons. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
1. Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 
Take three fine onions and parboil 
them in butter over a slow fire. When 
a rich, creamy brown, add clove gar- 
lic and Cayenne pepper. Cut the 
bouillon in thin slices and add, shak- 
ing the pan until browned. Place in 
tlie platter and serve with chopped 
parsley dusted over, and the juice oi" 
a lemon squeezed over it. 

Boiled Beef fi la Marscllaise. 

Bouilli a. la Marsellaise. 

The Bouilli. 

] Dozen Small Onions. 

% Cup Claret. % Cup Meat Gravy. 

Vi Can of Mushrooms. 
1 Herb Bouquet. % of a Grated Nutmeg. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Slice the bouilli into thin, fine 
slices. Take a dozen onions, the 
smallest kind, and dust over with 
sugar, and bake in the oveh. When a 
good color, put a little of the bouil- 
lon in the stewing pan and boil down 
one half. Moisten with a cup of red 
wine and thick meat sauce, allowing 
half and half in proportion. Then 
add the beet, the mushrooms, the 
bouquet garni, salt, pepper and ' a 
little nutmeg, and serve very hot. 

Boiled Beef Sausage. 

Saucisse de Bouilli. 

The Bouilli. 
1 Pound of Pork. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 
6 Allspice. 3 Truffles. 

A Dash of Cayenne. 
1 Wineglass of Madeira. 
V> Cup of Bouillon. 
Take the bouilli of the day be- 
■fore, mince and add chopped pars- 
ley, a few spices, salt and Cayenne 
pepper, and a little beef extract 
saved from the bouillon. Take a 
pound of pork and add, mixing 
thoroughly. When the whole is well 



32 



mixed, add a few truffles and a little 
Madeira. Fill some entrails that 
have been thoroughly cleansed with 
this meat and shape the sausage as 
one desires. Boil in butter and serve 
alone. This makes an excel. ent 
breakfast dish. 

Beef Croqaettcs. 
Croquettes de Boeuf. 
The Bouilli. 
1 Pound , ot Poik or Sausage Meat. 
1 Clove of Garlic. 
2 Onions. Whites ot 3 Eggs. 

3 Sprigs ot Parsley. 
1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 
Salt and 'Pepper. 
Mince the beef with sausage meat 
and add garlic, parsley, pepper, salt 
and onions, and bread crumbs soalced 
in water. Add the whites ot two 
eggs beaten to a froth. Make into 
balls ana roll in the beaten white 
of an egg, and fry, being careful not 
to cook too rapidly. When sufficient- 
ly browned, pile in a pyramid shape 
on a dish, garnish with parsley sprigs 
and serve. 

Boiled Beef Gros Sel. 

Bouilli Gros Sel. 

The Bouilli. 

1 Bunch of Parsley. 1 Head of Lettuce. 

A Freuch Dressing. 



This is the simplest way of serv 
ing the bouilli, and the one most 
used by the Creoles as a daily dish. 
Take the bouilli from the bouillon, 
and serve on a platter, laying the 
whole on a bed of parsley and let- 
tuce.' Serve with salt or French 
dressing. 

A Good Every-Day Hnsh, 
Hachis. 

1 Quart of Chopped Soup Meat. 

1 Onion. 2 Potatoes. 

2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

1 Taljlespoonful of Butter. 

% Pint ot Water. 

Salt and Pepper to . Taste, 

A Dash of Cayenne. 

Chop the left-over bouilli fine in 
dice shapes, and to every quart of 
the meat allow one onion, a table- 
spoonfill of butter, two hard-boiled 
eggs, two cold (left-over) potatoes, 
a half pint of water, and salt and pep- 
per to taste. Chop the potatoes, 
onions and eggs fine and put them 
into the stewing pan with the meat, 
adding by degrees the butter, salt 
and pepper with a little dash of Ca- 
yenne. Stew very slowly for about 
fifteen or twenty minutes and serve 
hot. 



CHAPTER VII. 
CREOLE GUMBO. 

Gombo a, la CrSole. 



Gumbo, of all other products of 
the New Orleans cuisine, represents a 
most distinctive type of the evolu- 
tion of good cookery under the hands 
of the famous Creole cuisinigres of 
old New Orleans. Indeed, the word 
"evolution" fails to apply when 
speaking of Gumbo, for it is an orig- 
inal conception, a something sui- 
generis in cooking, peculiar to 
this ancient Creole city alone, 
and to the manor born. With equal 
ability the olden Creole cooks saw the 
possibilities of exquisite and deli- 
cious combinations, in making Gumbu 
and hence we have many varieties, 
till the occult science of making a 
good "Gombo a, la Creole" seems to 
the Picayune too fine an inheritance 
of gastronomic lore to remain for- 
ever hidden away in the cuisines of 
this . oid Southern metropolis. The 
following recipes, gathered with care 
from the best Creole housekeepers 
of New Orleans, have been handed 
down from generation to generation 
by the old negro cooks, and preserved 
In all their delightful combinations 



by their white Creole mistresses 
They need only to be tried to prove 
thier perfect claim to the admiration 
of the many distinguished visitors 
and epicures who have paid trib- 
ute to our Creole Gumbo: 

Gumbo File. 

Gombo File. 

First, It will be necessary to ex- 
plain here, for the benefit of many,, 
that "Fil6" is a powder manufactured, 
by the remaining tribe of Choctaw 
Indians in Louisiana, from the young 
ond tender leaves of the sassafras. 
The Indian squaws gather the leaves- 
and spread them out on a stone mor- 
tar to dry. When thoroughly dried,, 
they pound them into a fine powder,, 
pass them through a hair sieve, and. 
then bring the FllS to New Orleans 
to sell, coming twice a week to the- 
French Market, from the old reser- 
vation set aside for their home oa 
Bayou Lacombe, near Mandeville,. 
La. The Indians used sassafras; 
leaves and the sassafras for many 



33 



medicinal purposes, and still sell 
bunches of the dried roots in the 
French Market. The Creoles, quick 
to discover and apply, found the pos- 
sibilities of the powdered sassafras, 
or "File," and originated the well- 
known dish, "Gumbo File." 

To make a good "Gumbo Fil§," use 
the following ingredients: 

1 Large Tender Chicken. 

2 Large Slices or Vi Pound Lean Ham. 

2 Tablespooufuls o£ Butter or 1 ' o£ Lard. 

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs o£ Parsley. 

" 3 Dozen Oysters. 

I Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Tliyme. 

2 Quarts of Oyster Water. 

2 Quarts of Boiling Water. 

1 Half Pod of Red Peppei-, Without the Seeds. 

Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Clean and out up the chicken as 
for a fricassee. Dredge with salt 
and black pepper, judging according 
to taste. Cut the ham into dice 
shapes and chop the onion, parsley 
and thyme very fine. Put the lard 
or butter into the soup kettle or deep 
stewing pot, and when hot, put in 
the ham and chicken. Cover closely 
and fry for about five or ten minutes. 
Then add the onion and parsley 'and 
thyme, stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent burning. When nicely browned 
add the boiling water and throw in 
the oyster stock, which has been 
thoroughly heated. Add the bay leaf 
chopped very fine, and the pepper 
pod, cut in two, and set the gumbo 
back to simmer for about an hour 
longer. When nearly ready to serve 
dinner, and while the Gumbo is boil- 
ing, add the fresh oysters. Let 
the gumbo remain on the stove for 
about three minutes longer, and then 
remove the pot from the fire. Have 
ready the tureens, set in a "bain- 
marie" Or hot water bath, for once 
the File is added the gumbo must 
never be warmed over. Take two 
tablespoonfuls of the File and drop 
gradually into the pot of boiling hot 
Gumbo, stirring slowly to mix thor- 
oughly; pour into the tureen, or tur- 
eens, if there should be a second de- 
mand and serve with boiled rice. (See 
recipe.) The rice, it should be re- 
marked, must be boiled so that the 
grains stand quite apart, and brought 
to the table in a separate dish, cov- 
ered. Serve about two spoonfuls of 
rice to one plate of gumbo. 

The above recipe is for a family 
of six. Increased quantities in pro- 
portion as required. Never boil the 
gumbo Tvith the rice, and never add 
the File while the gumbo is on the 
fire, as boiling after the file Is added 
tends to make the gumbo stringy and 
unfit for use, else the File is preci- 
pitated to the bottom of the pot, 
which is equally to be avoided. 

Where families cannot afford a 
fcwl, a good gumbo may be made by 



substituting the round ,of the beef 
for the chicken. 

Turkey Gumbo. 

Gombo de Dinde. 

The Remains of a Turkey. 

% Pound of Lean Ham. 

2 Tablespoons of Butter or 1 ol Lard. 

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

3 Dozen Oysters. 

1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

2 Quarts of Oyster Water. 

% Pod o£ Red Pepper, Without the Seeds. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Nothing is ever lost in a well-regu- 
lated Creole kitchen. When turkey 
is served one day, the remains or 
"left-over" are saved and made into 
that most excellent dish — a Turkey 
Gumbo. It is made in the same man- 
ner as Chicken Gumbo, only instead 
of the chicken, the turkey meat, 
black and white, that is left over, is 
stripped from the bones and car- 
cass. Chop fine and add to the hot 
lard, and then put in the ham, cut 
fine into dice shapes. Proceed exact- 
ly as in the recipe above, only after 
adding the boiling water, throw in 
the bones and carcass of the turkey. 
At the proper time remove the car- 
cass and bones, add the oysters, 
and then remove the pot and "File" 
the gumbo. Serve with boiled rice. 
Turkey Gumbo, when made from the 
remains of wild turkey, has a deli- 
cious flavor. 

Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo. 

Gombo d'Bcureil ou de Lapin. 

These are famous Creole Gumbos. 
The following ingredients are used: 

1 Fine Squirrel or Rabbit. 

2 Slices or 14 Pound of Lean Ham. 

3 Sprigs ol Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Large Onion. 

3 Dozen Oysters. 

2 Quarts of Oyster Water. 

% Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seed. 

A 'Dash of Cayenne. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Skin, clean and out up the squirrel 
or rabbit, as for a fricasse. Dredge 
well with salt and black pepper. Cut 
the ham into dice shapes, and chop 
the onion, parsley and thyme very 
fine. Put the lard or butter into a 
deep stew pot and, when hot, put in 
the squirrel or rabbit. Cover closely 
and fry for about eight or ten min- 
utes. Then proceed in exactly the 
same manner as for Chicken Gumbo; 
add the "file" at the time indicated, 
and serve with boiled Louisiana rice. 
(See recipe.) 



34 



Otera Gumbo, 

Gombo F4vi, 

1 Chicken. 1 Onion. 

6 Large Fresh Tomatoes. 

2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted. 

V2 Pod ot Red PeppCT, Without the Seeds. 
2 Large Siices ot Ham. 
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme or Parsley. 

1 Tablespooufal ot Lard or Two Level Spoons 
of Butter. 
Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 
Clean and cut up the chicken. 
Cut the ham into small squares or 
dice and chop the onions, parsley and 
thyme. Skin the tomatoes, and chop 
ilne, saving the juice. Wash and stem 
the okras and slice into thin layers 
of one-half inch each. Put the lard 
or butter into the soup kettle, and 
■n-hen hot add the chicken and the 
ham. Cover closely and let it sim- 
mer for about ten minutes. Then 
add the chopped onions, parsley, 
thyme and tomatoes, stirring fre- 
quently to prevent scorching. Then 
add the okras, and, when well- 
browned, add the juice of the toma- 
tces, which imparts a superior flavor. 
Ihe okra is very delicate and is li- 
able to scorch quickly if not stirred 
frequently. For this reason many 
Creole cooks fry the okra separately 
in a frying pan, seasoning with the 
pepper, Cayenne and salt, and then 
add to the chicken. But equally good 
results .may be obtained with less 
trouble by simply adding the okra 
to the frying chicken, and watching 
constantly to prevent scorching. The 
least taste ot a "scorch" spoils the 
flavor of the gumbo. When well 
fried and browned, add the boiling 
water (about three quarts) and set 
on the back of the stove, letting it 
simmer gently for about an hour 
longer. Serve hot, with nicely 
boiled rice. The remains of tur- 
key may be utilized in the gumbo, 
instead of using chicken. 

In families where it is not possible 
to procure a fowl, use a round steak 
of beef or veal, instead of the chick- 
en, and chop flne. But it must al- 
ways be borne in mind that the 
Chicken Gumbo has the best flavor. 
Much, however, depends upon the 
seasoning, which is always high, and 
thus cooked, the Meat Gumbo makes 
a most nutritious and excellent dish. 

Crab Guiubo. 

Gombo aux Crabes. 

1 Dozen Hard-Shell or Soft-Shell Crabs. 

1 Onion. 

6 Large Fresh Tomatoes. 

2 Pints ot Okra, or Fifty Counted. 

% Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seeds. 

1 Bay I«af. 1 Sprig ot Thyme or Parsley. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level 

Spoons of Butter. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

This is a great fast-day or "mai- 



gxe" dish with the Creoles. Hard or 
soft-shelled crabs may be used, 
though more frequently the former, 
as they are always procurable and 
far cheaper than the latter article, 
which is considered a luxury. Crabs 
are always sold alive. Scald the 
hard-shell crabs and clean according 
to recipe already given, "taking oft 
the dead man's lingers" and the 
spongy substances, and being care- 
ful to see that the sandbags on" the 
under part are removed. Then cut 
off the claws, crack and cut the 
body ot the crab in quarters. Sea- 
son nicely with salt and pepper. Put 
the lard into the pot, and when hot 
throw in the bodies and claws. Cover 
closely, and, after flve or ten minutes 
add the skinned tomatoes, chopped 
onions, thyme and parsley, stirring 
occassionally to prevent scorching. 
After flve minutes add the okras, 
sliced fine, and when well-browned, 
without the semblance of scorching, 
add the bay leaf, chopped fine, and 
the juice of the tomatoes. Pour over 
about two quarts and a half of 
boiling water, and set back on the 
stove and let it simmer well for 
about an hour, having thrown in the 
pepper pod. When nearly ready to 
serve, season according to taste with 
Cayenne and added salt; pour into 
a tureen and serve with boiled rice. 
This quantity will allow two soft- 
shell crabs or two bodies of hard- 
shelled crabs to eacn person. The 
soft-shell crab is simply the hard- 
shelled crab that has shed its shell. 
In three or four days the shell be- 
gins to harden again, hence the 
supply is never as generous as the 
hard-shelled crabs, which are al-- 
ways to be found in the New Orleans 
markets. 

Oyster Gumbo. 

Gombo aux Huitres. 

i Dozen Oysters. 

2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 

1 Tablespoouful of Lard or Butter. 

1 Quart of Hot Water. 

2 Tablespooufuls of Flour. 

1 Large White Onion. 

Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf, 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the lard into a kettle, , and 
when hot add the flour, making a 
brown roux. When quite brown 
without burning, add the chopped 
onions and parsley. Fry these, and 
when brown, add the chopped bay ■ 
leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor 
and then add the hot water. When 
it comes to a good boil, just before 
serving, add the oysters which have 
been well drained, without pouring 
water over them, however. Cook 
for about three minutes longer and 
take off the stove and stir gradually 



35 



two tablespoonfuls of FilS into the 
boiling hot gumbo. Have the tureen 
ready in a "bain-marie," or hot- 
water bath, and pour in the gumbo 
and cover. Bring to tae table im- 
mediately and serve with boiled rice, 
allowing about six or eight oysters 
to each person. 

Shrimp Gumbo. 
Gombo aux Chevrettes. 
j_ake Shrimps are always used in 
making this gumbo, the river shrimp 
being too small and delicate. Pur- 
chase always about 100 shrimps, or 
a small basketfull, for there are al- 
ways smaller shrimps in the pile 
which, when co6ked, amount to little 
or nothing. In making Shrimp Gum- 
bo, either "Fil§ or Okra may be 
used in the combination, but it must 
be borne in mind that, while the 
"Fil6" is frequently used, shrimp 
are far more delicious for- gumbo 
purposes when used wiih okra. The 
shrimp should always be scalded or 
boiled before putting in the gumbo. 
(See recipe for "Boiling Shrimp.") 
Shrimp Gumbo File. 
Gbmbo Fil6 aux Chevrettes. 
50 Fine Lake Sbrimp. 
2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 
1 Quart of Hot Water. 
1 Large Wliite Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

3 Sprigs of rarsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
A Dash of Cayenne. 
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. 
Scald and shell the shrimp, sea- 
.soning highly with the boiling wa- 
ter. Put the lard into a kettle, and, 
when hot, add the flour, making a 
brown roux. When quite brown, 
without a semblance of burning, add 
the chopped onion and the parsley. 
Fry these, and when brown, add the 
chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot 
oyster liquor and the hot water, 
or use the carefully strained liquor 
in which the shrimp have been boiled. 
When it comes to a good boll, and 
about five minutes before serving, 
add the shrimp to the gumbo and 
take off the stove. Then add to the 
boiling hot liquid about two table- 
spoonfuls of the "File," thickening 
according to taste. Season again 
with salt and pepper to taste. Serve 
immediately, with boiled rice, (bee 
recipe, "Boiled Bice.") 

Green or Herb Gumbo. 

Gombo aux Herbes. 

A Veal Brisket. 

1 Large Slice of Lean Ham. 

Equal Parts of the Leaves of Young 

Cabbage, Radish, Turnips, Mustard, Spinach, 

Watercress. Parsley and Green Onions. 

1 Large Red or White Onion. 

% Red Pepper Pod. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Sprlflr of Sweet Marloram. 

1 Clove. 9 Allspice. 

Cayenne to Taste. 

Soak and wash the leaves thor- 



oughly, being careful to wash each 
leaf separately, to be sure there lurk 
no insects in the folds or ridges. 
Then trim by taking off all the 
coarse midrib of the leaves, which 
will make the gumbo taste coarse 
and unpalatable. Boil the leaves to- 
gether for about two hours and' then 
parboil by adding a teaspoonful of 
cooking soda. Strain and chop very 
fine, being careful to save the wa- 
ter in which they were boiled.. Cut 
the brisket of veal and the sliced 
ham into small pieces and dredge 
with black pepper and salt, and chop 
one large white or red onion. Put 
a heaping teaspoonful of lard into 
a deep frying pan, and, when hot, 
add the chopped veal and the ham. 
Cover and let it simmer for about 
ten minutes, stirring occasionally to 
prevent burning. Then add the 
chopped onion and a little sprig of 
parsley chopped fine. When it comes 
to a rich brown, add the greens, and 
when these are browned, pour over 
four quarts of the water in which the 
leaves have been boiled. Throw in 
the finely chopped bay leaf, thyme, 
sweet marjoram, and the red pepper 
pod and the clove and allspice, 
mashed fine. Set it back on the 
stove and let it boil for about one 
hour longer, adding the Cayenne 
or "hot pepper," and you will have a 
regular Creole gumbo peculiar to 
New Orleans alone. Serve with 
boiled rice. 

Cnbbngre Grambo, 

Gombo Choux. 

1 Large Head of Cabbage (green and white 

mixed.) nt 

1 Round Steak. 

2 Large Slices of Lean Ham. 

2 Pounds of Creole Sausage. 

(About ^ to Pound.) 

1 Pod of Cayenne Pepper, Without the Seeds. 

1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
Salt and Black Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Gombo Choux, or Cabuage Gumbo, 
is a favorite Creole dish, especially 
in families where there are children, 
possessing, as it does, nutritive qual- 
ities in tbe highest degree, and be- 
ing besides a most palatable and sa- 
vory way of preparing cabbage. 

Shred the cabbage and wash each 
leaf separately and thoroughly to 
avoid insects. Then chop the entire 
head very fine, into pieces about half 
the size of dice. Cut the steak or 
brisket into small squares, also the 
ham, and fry in the deepest kettle 
you have, putting the meat' into the 
pot when the lard is very hot. When 
it begins to brown, add a chopped 
onion and the sausage, and then add 
the chopped cabbage, stirring and 
pouring in enough water to prevent 
it from burning.- Throw in the red 
pepper pod and a dash of Cayenne, 



36 



and salt to taste. Add a little black 
pepper. Stir often and allow the 
ingredients to cook well, gradually- 
adding, if necessary, a little water, 
and stirring frequently to prevent 
burning. When thoroughly cooked, 
make a cream sauce as follows: 

Take one pint of new milk and two 
tablespoonfuls of flour and mix thor- 
oughly, so as not to be lumpy. Stir 
this into the gumbo while boiling, 
and continue stirring for five min- 
utes. Serve with boiled rice. If it 
is not possible to procure milk, al- 
most the same effect may be attained 
by mixing the flour in cold water 
of the same measurement and stir- 



ring in as already given. The gum- 
bo must not be allowed to stand on 
the fire after the flour has been 
boiled on it for five minutes, at it 
■will burn. 

Should the recipe prove above the 
purses of the poor, eitner the sau- 
sage or the round of beef may bo 
omitted. With the ingredients given 
in this recipe, it should not cost more 
than the following: Head of cab- 
bage, 5 cents; ham, 5 cents; steak 
10 cents; sausage, 10 cents; milk, 
5 cents. It may be varied to suit 
the purses of the rich or poor, and is 
always a nutritious dish and quite 
a dinner in itself. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



PISH. 



Du Poisson. 



The Fish Market of New Orleans 
is famous over the world. No 
stranger comes to the city without 
visiting this notable spot, and never 
thinks of leaving New Orleans with- 
out partaking of a "Pish Breakfast," 
or "Pish Dinner," at one of the Lake 
resorts. 

The perfection and variety of the 
fish found in the New Orleans mar- 
ket are unsurpassed. We have here 
all the fish found in the waters of 
the Gulf of Mexico contiguous to 
New Orleans, the Mississippi Sound 
and our own lake shores. These 
constitute the famous salt-water va- 
rieties, such as the Sheepshead, con- 
sidered by many the best fish in the 
Gulf; the famous Pompano and Span- 
ish Mackerel, the dainty Croaker, 
the toothsome Plounder, the Blue- 
fish, the Silver Trout, Tenderloin 
Trout, Speckled Trout, the Grouper, 
and the Mullet, the latter, however, 
being seldom eaten, owiijg to the 
softeness of its flesh, the number o£ 
its bones and the continued presence 
of the other and finer fish whic.i 
are to be had tor the fishing. Among 
shell fish we have the Hard-Shell 
Crab, the Soft-Shell Crab, consid- 
ered a great luxury in other parts, 
but always to be found in the New 
Orleans market; the appetizing Lake 
Shrimps; that delicious bivalve, the 
Oyster; the Crawfish, and the famous 
Green Turtle, so highly prized as a 
dainty morsel. Again, in the rivers 
and bayous and small streams of 
Louisiana we have many delightful 
varieties of fresh-water fish, such as 
fresh-water or Green Trout, the Saca- 
lait and a coarse fish called the Buf- 
falo. The River Shrimp of Louisiana 



■are unique in the United States. 
They are of a far more delicate va- 
riety than the Lake Shrimp and muc.i 
prized as an article of ■ food. Both 
Lake and River Shrimp are abun- 
dant in the summer time and are 
used alike by rich and poor. 

In the following recipes the njost 
delightful methods of preparing thesa 
fish are given, methods which may 
be used by all according to the purse, 
the conditions of the poorest having 
been considered as well as the wants 
of the wealthy. All are equally rec- 
ommended, being the most perfect 
preparations of their kind in use 
among t.ie Creole housekeepers. It 
might be added here, for the benefit 
of any Northern housekeepers into 
whose hands this book may fall, 
that many of the recipes may be 
modified according to good judgment 
in preparing the fish found exclus- 
ively in the Northern markets. For 
instance, in making the famous 
"Courtbouillon," which is in all res- 
pects a distinctive Creole conception, 
any firm fish, such as the Bass, may 
be used, though, of course, the fiavor 
of the delicious Red Snapper or Red 
Fish used by the Creoles to the ex- 
clusion of all other fish in mak- 
ing a "Courtbouillon," will be found 
wanting. With modifications that 
■will suggest themselves to any intel- 
ligent housekeeper, they may be used 
the world over in preparing fish of 
other varieties than those which are 
the delight and pride of the New Or- 
leans Pish Market. 

How to Tell Good Fisll. 

Unless perfectly fresh, fish is unfit 
for use. Care should be taken to see 



37 



that the gills are bright and red, the 
scales shining, the eyes clear and the 
flesh very firm and free from any un- 
pleasant odor. In the New Orleans 
Fish Market the vendors generally 
clean and scale the fish, it requested 
to do so; but this cleaning and scal- 
ing is not to be entirely depended 
upon, because it is rarely thorough, 
only the heavier scales and entrails 
being removed. On coming home 
from the market, the fish should be 
immediately rescaled and thoroughly 
cleansed and washed without soak- 
ing, in water; it is far better to let 
the water run over the fish, for thus 
the smallest particle of blood is re- 
moved. This is very important in 
order to have a good, wholesome, sav- 
ory dish. Then sprinkle the fish on 
the inside with salt, and set in the 
ice box. If this is wanting, put It 
in a very cool place, but it is always 
best for it to remain on ice until 
ready to use, especially during the 
summer. The small vendors in the 
New Orleans private markets fre- 
quently oblige their poor customers 
by placing the fish in their ice boxes 
until the time for preparation, when 
it is sent for and is found cold and 
firm and ready for cooking. 

Methods of Cooking Fish, 

Fish may be boiled, broiled, stewed, 
fried or baked. 

Visitors to New Orleans declare 
that nowhere is fish cooked in such 
palatable ways as in this old Franco- 
Spanish city. The experience of 
generations of fine old cooks has been . 
brought to bear upon the preparation 
of the fish found in the Louisiana wa- 
ters and those of the Mexican Gulf, 
with the result that a Creole code 
of rules for the cooking of even the 
smallest and less important flsh pre- 
vails, and it is considered little 
short of barbarous to depart from 
it. 

The Creole methods of boiling and 
baking flsh are the perfection of "cul- 
inary art and unlike any method in 
vogue elsewhere. 

Special recipes are, therefore, giv- 
en for the boiling and baking of 
Sheepshead, Redfish, Red Snapper, as, 
also, for making the world-famous 
Creole "Courtbouillon" and "Bouilla- 
baise." These ruies should be strict- 
ly observed in cooking these flsh if 
one would bring out the best flavor 
of each. But there are other flsh, 
such as Green Trout and Perch, 
which, when simply boiled and served 
with appropriate sauces, are known 
to reserve their best flavor for this 
species of cooking. 

The following general rules for 
boiling, broiling, baking, stewing 
and frying fish should be carefully 
followed wherever indicated in the 
recipes. 



BOTLBD FISH. 

Poisson Bouilli. 
General Rule for Balling Flsh. 

--lean and wash the flsh thoroughly. 
Make a small letter "S" with knife 
on the back; pass twine around the 
body of the flsh so as to secure U. 
Never wrap or tie in a cloth. Have 
ready a kettle of boiling water and 
throw in a sprig of onion, thyme 
and bay leaf, eight or ten cloves, 
about two dozen allspice, all mashed 
fine; a bit of lemon peel and a red 
pepper pod. When the water has 
boiled long enough to have extracted 
the flavor of these ingredients, drop 
the fish in carefully, so as to avoid 
■breaking. Let it boil about ten 
minutes and then take out care- 
fully. Put into a strainer and drain 
quickly. Place on a bed of parsley 
with garnishes of lemon and serve 
either a Mayonnaise or Genoise 
Sauce or Sauce Hollandaise. (See 
recipes.) ' _ 

The Creoles add a clove of garlic 
to the boiling water, but this is ac- 
cording to taste. 

BROILFD FISH. 
Poisson Grills. 
General Rules for Broiling Flsh. 
Always use the double broiler, 
made of wire, as this allows the coDk 
to turn the fish from side to side 
without disturbing the body during 
the process of broiling, and possibly 
breaking the flesh. Clean the flsh, 
without cutting off the head and 
tail. "When the flsh is large, split 
down the back; else broil whole. Al- 
ways serve broiled flsh whole. Have 
a clear moderate fire. Expose flrst 
the flesh side to the fire, and then 
the skin, as the latter browns it is 
liable to burn quickly. Great care 
must, therefore, be taken not to burn 
the skin side. 

Before placing on the broiler, rub 
the flsh well with salt and pepper, 
mixed in a little sweet oil or a little 
butter oil or butter. If the flsh is 
small, broil on a quick, clear flre; It 
large, as mentioned above, the flre 
must be moderate, or the outside of 
the fish will be charred before the 
inside is done. When the fish is done 
through and through, -which can 
quickly be determined by the fish 
parting easily from the bone, remove 
the gridiron from the flre, and loos- 
en the flns from the broiler with 
a knife, being careful not to 
break the flesh. Then place the hot 
dish over the fish, and, with a dex- 
terous movement, turn the two back 
again, thus separating the gridiron 
from the flsh and placing the latter 
in the dish. Butter well, season with 
a little pepper and salt, if deemed 
necessary, and pour over a table- 



38 



spoonful of chopped parsley and lem- 
on juice. Serve with garnishes of 
sliced lemon and parsley, or gar- 
nishes of delicate green lettuce 
leaves. 

Broiling is one of the nicest ways 
of cooking certain kinds of fish, and 
cannot be too highly recommended. 

BAKISO PISH. 

Poisson au Gratin. 

General Rule for Baking Fisb, 

Clean the Fish, cutting -off the 
fins. Make the letter "S" on the 
sides. Rub well inside and out with 
pepper and salt. Butter a stewpan 
and put in one large chopped onion 
and a wineglassful of white wine. 
Place the fish in the pan, put in the 
oven and let it bake about twenty 
minutes, having been careful to place 
lumps of butter over it and basting 
frequently. When done carefully, 
lift the fish out of the pan and put it 
into the dish in which it is to be 
served. Take the gravy in which the 
fish has been cooked and add about 
a cup of oyster water, the juice of one 
lemon, two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
mushrooms, one tablespoonful of 
minced parsley, thyme and sweet 
marjoram, ten allspice, one clove of 
garlic, a little Cayenne, and salt and 
pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly 
over the stove, adding a little but- 
ter if the gravy adheres too much 
to the pan. Pour over the fish, and 
garnish with whole mushrooms and 
slices of lemon laid alternately upon 
Crofltons or dried toast, out diamond 
shape. 

STEWED FISH. 

Poisson en Matelote. 

General Rule for Steering Fish, 

Clean the fish well and slice and 
pour over one cup of good, boiling 
vinegar. Make a roux by putting 
one tablespoonful of lard into the 
stewpan, and when hot add gradually 
two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed 
smoothly. When quite brown, take 
the fish, which has been previously 
rubbed with salt and pepper, and 
place in the pot. Let it simmer 
gently a few minutes, and then add 
a large chopped onion, parsley, one 
clove of garlic, one sprig of thyme, 
a bay leaf, two' blades of mace and 
eight or ten allspice. Let these 
brown and cover with water sufl5- 
cient to prevent burning. Put the 
fish on a slow fire to stew, and when 
half done, add a little Cayenne, and, 
if possible, add a pint or glass of 
Port Wine. When done, place the 
fish in a dish, pour the gravy over 
it, and garnish with CroQtons, with 
alternate slices of lemon and pre- 
pared horseradish. 



FRIED FISH. 

Poissons Frits. 
General Rule for Frying Flata. 

Certain of the fish of the Mexican 
Gulf are always best when fried.' 
Of these are the toothsome Croakers, 
the delicate Sacalait and Patassas, 
and also the Speckled Trout when 
served in tenderloin steaks. 

There is an art in knowing how 
to fry fish properly. Perhaps there 
is no other method of cooking fish 
which is more commonly used, and 
no other which is more generally 
abused. There are few people who 
really know how to fry fish properly. 
The following general rule will" give 
Tlie Secret of Good Frying. 

The secret of good frying lies in 
having the lard heated Just to -the 
proper point. If the fish is placed in 
the boiling lard, it is liable to burn 
quickly without being cooked 
through and through. If placed sim- 
ply in the well-heated lard, it ab- 
sorbs the fat and is delicate and ten- 
der and there is no tax upon the di- 
■gestive organs. Always have suffi- 
cient lard in the pan to fry all the 
fish that is on hand and never add 
a lump of cold lard to the heated 
substance. This checks the cooking 
of the fish and spoils the taste. It 
the lard spits and crackles, that is 
no evidence of boiling. It only 
means that the lard is throwing off 
drops of moisture that have crept in. 
Boiling lard is perfectly still until 
it begins to smoke, and then it is in 
'danger of burning and must be re- 
moved from the fire. To test the 
lard, drop in a piece of bread. If it 
begins to color, the lard Is ready for 
frying. When the fish is fried, skim 
it out, draining off all the fat. But- 
ter is never used in frying fish, as It 
burns quickly. 

A Short Resume of the Way In Whlcli 

the Fish of the Nevr Orleans 

Markets Sliould Always Be 

Cooked. 

Sheepshead may be boiled, broiled 
or baked, and is good with any 
sauce. 

Redflsh is principally used in mak/- 
ing "Courtbouillon," or it is boiled 
and served with an Hollandaise 
Sauce, or baked. 

Red Snapper should always be 
boiled or baked. It is delightful 
served a. la Chambord, but it is best 
a. la Creole. 

Grouper is served in the same way 
as Red Snapper. 

Flounder should always be baked 
a. la Nouvelle Orleans, or &. la Nor- 
mande, or with a white wine sauce 
as in Baked Sheepshead or in the 
famous recipe "Sole a la Orly." (See 
recipe.) 



39 



Pompano should always be broiled 
and served with Sauce a. la Maitre 
a'Hotel. 

Spanish Mackerel should always be 
broiled in the same manner as Pom- 
pano, and served with Sauce a, la 
Maitre d'Hotel. 

Bluefish should be cooked and 
served in the same manner as Pom- 
pano and Spanish Mackerel. 

Speckled Trout is generally broiled 
and served in tenderloin, or a Ten- 
derloin Trout, with Sauce a, la Tar- 
tare. 

Green Trout and Perch should be 
broiled and served with a Sauce a. 
la Maitre d'Hotel, or else boiled 
and served with a Sauce Genoise, or 
an HoUandaise or Drawn Butter 
Sauce. 

Croakers are fried and served with 
garnish of parsley or lemon. 

Patassas, Sacalait and other small 
fish are served in the same manner as 
Croakers. 

Soft-shell crabs may be fried in the 
same manner as Croakers, or broiled 
and served on toast. 

Shrimp are generally boiled, with 
plenty of seasoning. The River 
Shrimp are always served as boiled, 
shells and all, but the Lake Shrimp 
enter into many combinations in 
cooking. 

Hard-shelled Crabs may be stuffed, 
stewed, fried and made into gumbo. 

All left-over, broiled, baked or 
boiled Jish should be utilized in mak- 
ing salads, croquettes, etc. 

Oysters are served in almost every 
conceivable way, and enter into the 
most delightful combinations in 
cooking. 

A fish weighing three pounds, or 
small fish in quantity sufficient to 
make three pounds (uncooked), will 
serve six persons. 

THE SHEEPSHEAD. 
Casburgot. 

Of all the fish found in the waters 
of the Gulf of Mexico, the Sheeps- 
head is perhaps the most to be com- 
mended for frequent household use, 
being susceptible of a far greater 
variety of modes of preparation than 
any other fish; the flesh being of a 
less richer fiber than the Redfish, 
Red Snapper, Pompano and Spanish 
Mackerel, it may be used from day 
to day without injury to the stom- 
ach. It is good in almost any form 
and may be boiled, baked or broiled, 
and served with almost any sauce. 
Boiled Sliccpsliend. 
Casburgot Bouilli. 
A 3-Poun(l Sheepshead. 1 Sliced Onion. 
3 Bay Learos. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Spilg of 

Parsley. 
1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful 
French Vinegar. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A Cream Saure. 
Wash and thoroughly clean the 



fish, and then lay on a pan and open 
the fiesh on either side by making 
the letter "S" with the knife. This 
is done to prevent the fish from puf- 
fing out Or drawing up, and to insure 
thorough cooking and a perfect shape 
afterwards. Then tie the flsh well 
with cord or twine, wrapping it 
around the body. Never encase a 
boiled flsh in a cloth; put the fish in 
a deep saucepan and add boiling wa- 
ter sufficient for the fisli to swim in 
it. Throw in a tablespoonful of 
spice (well mashed), a sliced onion, 
three bay leaves, a sprig of parsley 
(all chopped very fine), a tablespoon- 
ful of French vinegar, and salt and 
pepper to taste. Cover well and let 
it boil for ten minutes. After ten 
minutes, the flsh is cooked. Prepare 
a "Cream Sauce" (see reaipe) and 
serve immediately. ' ^, ^ 

Sheepshead il la Creole^ 

Casburgot a la Crfiole. 

A 3- Pound Sheepshcnd. 
2 Onions. 1 Bunch of Parsley. 

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 4 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of 

Sweet Marjoram. 
1 Quart of Boiled Cream. Ynllts of 4 Eggs. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 

Butter. 
Bread Crumbs. 

Prepare the Sheepshead as for boil- 
ing (see recipe Boiled Sheepshead). 
"When quite done, take out of the 
water and flake off all the flesh from 
the bones. Have ready a quarter of 
boiled cream or milk. Beat the yolks 
of four eggs and mix with the cream. 
Chop one large onion, a bunch of 
parsley, a sprig each of thyme and 
bay leaf, and add to the cream and 
eggs. Let it boil up once, and while 
boiling, throw in three tablespoon- 
fuls of fiour, rubbed perfectly smooth, 
in a little cream, and about two ta- 
blespoonfuls of butter. Remove from 
the flre. Have ready a deep dish, 
well buttered, and put in a layer of 
fish and then a layer of the sauce, 
until the dish is full. Sprinkle over 
with bread crumbs. Place in the 
oven and bake about a half hour, or 
until brown. This is a very delight- 
ful method of preparing Sheepshead. 

Baked Sheep.shen(1. 

Casburgot au Gratin. 
A 3-Pound Sheepshead. 1 Large Onion. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. % Bottle of White Wiae. 
6 Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Dozen Lake Shrimp.' 

1 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms. 

2 Crackers. Dry Toast Cut -in Dice Shape. 

3 Sprii's Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Clean and wash the fish; place on 
a platter; chop one large onion fine, 
rub the fish first with salt and black 
pepper, and then take a large and 



40 



deep kitchen pan, place within a 
tablespoonful of butter, the chopped 
onion, bay leaf and thyme. Place 
the flsh on top of this and pour over 
a half bottle of white wine. Cover 
with another close pan and put the 
whole on top of the oven (not on the 
inside). Bake from the bottom. 
When it begins to boil from below, 
turn the flsh over carefully without 
breaking-, and let it bake on the other 
side. Take a saucepan and put with- 
,in a tablespoonful of butter and mix 
thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls 
of flour. Let it brown without 
burning, and then add six fresh to- 
matoes, skinned and chopped fine, 
or a half can. Add two dozen Lake 
Shrimp that have been cleaned well 
and scalded, a half can of mush- 
rooms ,- saU and pepper to taste. Let 
all cook for about five minutes and 
tlien water with the gravy in which 
the fish is cooking. Mix well and 
cover the flsh with it. Parboil one 
dozen oysters, and when the fish is 
cooked, set it in the dish in which it 
is to be served and place the oysters 
all around it on small slices of dry 
toast. Cover the flsh alternately 
with the shrimp and oysters, as a 
garnish over and around it. Mash 
two crackers into crumbs and 
sprinkle over, and place alternately 
small bits of butter on top of the 
flsh. Place the dish In the oven 
and bake the flsh with a quick flre 
until brown, and serve immediately. 
This preparation is an exclusive 
conception of our Creole cuisini&res 
and cannot be too highly recom- 
mended. 

Baked Sheepsbead & la Creole. 

Casburgot a, la Creole au Gratin. 

A 3-Pound Sbeepsbead. 

1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 

1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Cbopped Parsley. 

1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful ofLard. 1 Pint of White Wine 

or Boiling Water. 

Salt and Pepper and Flonr to Dredge, 

A HoUandaise, Bechamel or Tomato Sauce. 

The following is a more simple 
manner, where means are limited, of 
baking Sheepshead for frequent fam- 
ily use. Clean the flsh thoroughly, 
. inside and out; wash well and dry 
thoroughly with a clean towel. Rub 
it well with salt and pepper, then 
make a dressing, taking one cup of 
stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed 
thoroughly of all water, one table- 
spoonful of melted butter, one table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley a half 
teaspoonful of salt and a little black 
pepper. Mix well and fry in a little 
lard. One dozen oysters or shrimp 
Or the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs 
added and mixed increase the flavor 
of the dressing, „ut the dressing can 
be made very nicely without. After 



frying the dressing a few minutes 
take off the stove and stuff the 
body of the flsh and sew up with 
soft thread or soft yarn. Score or slit 
the flsh on either side, making the 
scores about an inch apart and lard 
it either by putting a strip of salt 
fat in each gash or filling with larcL 
Grease the bottom of a baking pan 
put the flsh in it and dredge thickly 
with salt and flour and a little Ca- 
yenne. If possible, pour over a half 
■bottle of white wine, otherwise sim- 
ply cover the bottom of the pan 
with the grease, add a little boiling 
water, and put the flsh in a hot oven. 
Baste every ten minutes or so by tak- 
ing a spoon and pouring the gravy 
over the fish. Allow about fifteen 
minutes of baking to every pound 
of flsh, the ordinary sized fish of four 
pounds requiring about one hour. 
When brown on one side, turn on the 
otlier, and when done carefully, slide 
the fish into the center of the flat 
dish in which it is to be served, and 
garnish nicely with slices of lemon, 
fried potato balls and chopped pars- 
ley. Make the garnish by placing 
sprigs of parsley between the fried 
potato balls and laying on the slices 
of lemon. Serve with HoUandaise 
Sauce or Bechamel Sauce. (See 
ceipts.) 

Again, where the the fish is not 
baked in wine and served with se- 
parate sauce a good sauce from its 
own juices may be made. Simply 
grease and cover the bottom of the 
pan with boiling water and place in 
the fish. As it begins to bake well 
take a half dozen good, fresh toma- 
toes, or a half can of tomatoes, one 
onion, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme 
and a blade of mace, chop all fine, 
and mix thoroughly and pour over 
the baking flsh. Add a little butter, 
salt and pepper, and a very good 
every-day sauce will be the result 
. Red Snapper may be baked in this 
same simple style where the purse 
will not permit of the more expensive 
recipe, given further on. 

Red Snapper and Redfish. 

Red Snapper et Poisson Rouge. 
These are distinctive fish, and form 
unique and most delightful dishes of 
the Creole cuisine. 

Courtbouillon ft la Cr6ole. 
Six Fine Slices of Redflsh or Bed Snapper 

(equal to 3 Pounds.) 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfnb of 

Flour. 

12 Well-Mashed Allspice. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Sweet 

Marjoram. 

3 Bay Leaves. 

1 Large Onion. 1 clove of Garlic. 

Large Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can. 

1 Quart Of Water. 1 Glass of Claret. Tie 

Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 



41 



Those kings o( the New Orleans 
French Market, the Red Snapper or 
the Redfish, are used in making the 
pride and glory of the New Orleans 
cuisines, a good "Courtbouillon." 
More generally and with finer results 
the Redfish or "Poisson Rouge" is 
used. This fish may always be known 
by the single spot on the tail. The 
old Creole darkies have a tradition 
that this was the fish which the 
Apostles brought to the Savior when 
he performed his great miracle of 
the loaves and me fishes. They hand 
down the quaint legend that the Sa- 
vior took up this fish between his fin- 
gers and blessed it, and it was ever 
after a marked fish in the waters, 
the imprint of the Lord's fingers hav- 
ing remained on the spot where, he 
held up the fish and blessed it and of- 
fered it to His Father. They hold the 
Redflsh in reverent veneration, and 
never fail to tell the little children 
when cooking it: "dose am de marks 
ob de Lord's hand." 

To make a real Courtbouillon slice 
the Redflsh in fine, clear-cut pieces, 
after having thoroughly washed and 
cleaned, it. Make a "Roux" by put- 
ting one tablespoonful of lard in a 
deep can or kettle. When hot add 
gradually two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, stirring constantly to prevent 
burning. Throw in about ten or 
twelve well-mashed allspice, and 
three sprigs each of chopped thyme, 
parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjo- 
ram, one clove of garlic and one large 
onion, chopped very fine. Add six 
fresh, large tomatoes, chopped fine. 
Or one-half can of tomatoes. Pour 
in one glass of good claret, add about 
one quart of water, and let it boil 
well. Then add salt and Cayenne to 
taste, and when this has boiled 
about five minutes add the fish, 
putting in slice ay slice. Add the 
juice of a lemon, and let all boil 
aoout ten minutes. Serve with 
French fried "potatoes, mashed po- 
tatoes or potato croquettes. 

A Courtbouillon of Red Snapper Is 
made in the same way. 

Spanish CourtbonlUon, 

Courtbouillon a. I'Espagnole. 
6 Slices of Redflsh pr Red Snapper (equal to 

3 pounds.) 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 

Flour. 

1 Large Onion. 6 Tomatoes. 3 Sprigs of 

Parsley. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Tliyme. . 

1 Spiig of Sweet Basil. 

2 Bay Leaves. 1 Cup of White Wine. 

2 Pints of Water. 
The delightful adaptability of the 
New Orleans cuisine to the wants of 
all the people may be seen in the 
following Courtbouillon, which is in 
general use among the families of 
moderate means, and is, indeed, a 



very pleasing way of cooking Red- 
flsh: 

Buy in the French Market four or 
six slices of Redflsh. Make a Roux 
by putting one tablespoonful ot lard 
into the stew pan, and when It is hot, 
stir in gradually two tablespoonfuls 
of flour. Add one large chopped 
onion, six tomatoes (chopped), the 
chopped parsley, clove of garlic, 
sweet basil and thyme, all chopped 
very fine. Add two bay leaves whole. 
"When it browns nicely without burn- 
ing, pour in about two pints of water 
and let it come to a boil. Rub the 
flsh well with salt and pepper, and 
pour over it a cup of boiling vin- 
egar, if you have no white wine. Put 
the flsh slice by slice into the pot and 
let it simmer for about a half hour, 
or until the flesh begins to be soft. 
Then remove from the fire, take out 
of the pot, and lay the slices in a 
dish. Take the bay leaves out of the 
^avy, pour the gravy over the flsh, 
and serve with garnishes of sliced 
lemon. - 

Courtbouillon is very palatable 
served in this way. It is a most eco- 
nomical Friday or fast-day dish in 
large families when served with 
boiled rice, or potatoes boiled whole. 

Bouillabaise. 

6 Slices of Red Snapper. 6 Slices of Redflsh. 

% Bottle of White Wine. % Lemon. 

6 Large Fresh Tomatoes, or ^ Can. 

3 Onions. 1 Herb Bouquet. 

3 Cloves of Gallic. 

3 Bay Leaves. 3 Spi'lgs of Thyme. 

3 Spiigs of Parsley. 

6 Allspices. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

1 Good Strang Piuch of SatEron. 

■Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

This is the dish that drew from 

Thackeray that famous tribute to 

Creole cookery: "In New Orleans you 

can eat a Bouillabaisse, the like of 

which was never eaten in Marseilles 

or Paris." 

The reason is clear, for in those 
old French cities the Bouillabaisse is 
made from the fish of the waters of 
the Mediterranean Sea, notably the 
Sturgeon and the Perch combined, 
while in New Orleans it is made from 
those matchless fish of the Gulf of 
Mexico, the Red Snapper and the 
Redfish (Poisson Rouge). It will be 
noticed that it takes two kinds of 
flsh to make a Bouillabaisse. The 
first Bouillabaisse was made in Mar- 
seilles, and the old Creole tradition 
runs that it was the discovery of two 
sailor fishermen, who were disput- 
ing as they sat in a schooner as to 
the proper way of cooking a Stur- 
geon and Perch combined. Both es- 
sayed: One succeeded in making a 
delightful dish that would have glad- 
dened the heart of any old French 
"bon vivant." The other failed. The 
successful one enthusiastically of- 



42 



fered to teach his friend, and as the 
latter was following the directions im 
plicitly, and the finishing touches 
were being given to the dish, the 
teacher, seeing that the critical and 
important moment had come when 
the flsh must be taken from the Are, 
or it would be spoiled if it cooked a 
moment longer, cried out, bringing 
down his hand emphatically: "Bt 
quand ga commence a bouillir — 
Baisse!" Hence the name "Bouilla- 
baisse," which was given to the disli 
from that moment. From all por- 
tions of Europe people go to Mar- 
seilles to eat a "Bouillabaisse" on 
the seashore. 

The taste of the Bouillabaisse still 
lingered in the mouths of the old 
French Creole settlers of New Or- 
leans. The famous old chefs sought 
two fish from the water of the Mex- 
ican Gulf that might be used in tlie 
making of the dish with a reason- 
able hope of success. They chose tlie 
Red Snapper and the Redfish. The 
result is told in Thackeray's tribute. 
The Creole Bouillabaisse, with the 
modifications and improvements that 
early ingenuity suggested, is a dish 
that was the standing offering in an- 
tebellum days to every distinguished 
Parisian or foreigner that visited 
New Orleans. Its reputation is sus- 
tained by the Creole cuisiniSres of 
our own day. It is made as follows: 

First cut off the head of the Red 
Snapper and boil it in about one and 
a half quarts of water, so as to make 
a fish stock. Put one sliced onion 
and a herb bouquet consisting of 
thyme, bay leaf and parsley, into the 
water. When reduced to one pint, 
take out the head of the fish and the 
herb bouquet and strain the water 
and set it aside for use later on. 

Take six slices of Redfish and six 
slices of Red Snapper of equal sizes 
and rub well with salt and pepper. 
Mince three sprigs 'Of thyme, three 
sprigs of parsley, three bay leaves 
and three cloves of garlic, very, very 
fine, and take six "allspice and grind 
theni very fine, and mix thorouglily 
Witli the minced herbs and garlic. 
Tlien take eabh ?lice of fiSh and rub 
Well with this mixturfe till every por- 
tion is permeated by fhe herbs, spice 
and garlic They must be, as it were, 
soaked into "fhe flesh, if you would 
achieve the success of this dish. 
Take two tablespoonfuls of fine olive 
oil and put into a very large pan, 
so large that each slice of the fish 
may be put in without one piece 
overlapping the other. Chop two on- 
ions very fine and add them to the 
heating' oil. Lay 'the fish slice by 
slice in the pan and cover, and let 
them "6touK6," or smother for about 
ten minutes, turning once over so 
that each side may cook partly. Then 



take the fish out of the pan and set 
the slices in a dish. Pour a half 
bottle of white wine into the pan and 
stir well. Add a half can of toma- 
tes, or six large fresh tomatoes sliced 
fine, and let them boil well. Then add 
half a lemon, cut in very thin slices, 
and pour over a pint of the liquor In 
which the head of the snapper was 
boiled. Season well to taste with 
salt, pepper and a dash of Cayenne. 
Let it boil until very strong and till 
reduced almost one half; then lay 
the fish slice by slice, apart one from 
the other, in the pan, and let boil 
five minutes. In the meantime have 
prepared one good pinch of saffron, 
chopped very fine. Set it in a small 
deep dish and add a little of the 
sauce in which the fish is boiling to 
dissolve well. When well melted, 
and when the fish has been just five 
minutes in the pan, spread the saf- 
fron over the top of the fish. Take 
out of the pan, lay each slice on 
toast, which has been fried in butter; 
pour the sauce over and serve hot 
immediately. You will have' a dish 
that LucuUus would have envied. 



Boiled Red Fish or Boiled Red 
Snapper. 

Poisson Rouge ou Red Snapper 
Bouilli. 



A 3-Pound Redfish or Red Snapper. 

1 Sliced Onion. 

3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful 

of French Vinegar. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

An Hollandaise Sauce. 



Wash and thoroughly clean the 
fish, and then lay on a pan and open 
the flesh on either side by making the 
letter "S" with the knife. This is 
done to prevent the flsh from puffing 
out or -drawing up, and to insure 
thorough cooking and a perfect 
shape afterwards. Then tie the fish 
well with cord or tWine, wrapping 
it around the body. Never encase a 
boiled fish in a cloth; put the flsh in 
a deep saucfepan and add boiling wa- 
ter sufficient for the flsh to swim in 
it. Throw in a tablespoonful of 
sp-ice (well mashed), a sUced onion, 
three bay leaves, a sprig of thyme 
and sweet marjoram, a sprig o£ 
parsley (all chopped very fine), a 
tablespoonful of French vinegar, 
and salt and pepper to taste. Cover 
well and let it boil for ten minutes. 
After ten minutes, the flsh is cooked. 
Prepare a "Cream Sauce" (.=ee re- 
cipe) and serve immediately. 



43 



Baked Rea Snapper. 

Red Snapper a. la Crgole. 

A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Founds in Welglit. 

2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled Sbrinip. 

1 Dozen Boiled Crawflsli, 
2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
1 Gup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 
3 Large Tomatoes, y^ Can of llusbrooms. 
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 
2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 1 Bottle of 
White Wine. 
Salt and Pepper. 
Clean and wash the Red Snapper 
thoroughly. Make a cut in the shape 
of the letter "S" on the back and 
stuff this with spice, thyme, clove and 
bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub tlior- 
oughly inside and out with salt and 
pepper. Make a good stuffing by 
taking one dozen oysters, one cup 
of stale bread crumbs, wet and 
squeezed of all water, one large on- 
ion chopped fine, a half teaspoonful 
of salt and a little black pepper. 
Mix well and fry in a pan witli a 
tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the 
body of the fish and sew up witli 
soft thread. Lard well, that is, rub 
thoroughly with lard and place in 
the oven. Pour over immediately a 
bottle of white wine, and let the 
fish bake well in the wine. In the 
meantime, prepare the following 
sauce: Take one large tablespoonful 
of butter, one large chopped onion, 
one sprig of thyme, one of bay leaf. 
Brown the onions and butter, being 
careful not to burn, and put in three 
tomatoes; add the chopped herbs; 
brown and add a pint of oyster water 
which has been heated by blanching 
■ the oysters. (Blanching means to 
place the oysters on the'-fire in their 
own wat^r and heat thoroughly with- 
out boiling.) Season the sauce with 
pepper and salt to taste. Have 
ready iii, another dish one dozen 
parboiled or blanched oysters and two 
dozen boiled shrimp. Put the fisli 
in the dish in which it is to be served 
garnish with the oysters and shrimp, 
placing them 6-^k.X' the fish,' and 
mingle about a half can of mush- 
rooms.' Haye also' ready a dozen 
nicely- boiled ' crawfish. Garnish the 
fish with these, placing them all 
around, it in the dish'' in which it is 
to be served. Pour the sa,uce over 
all and set', in the oven and' bake a 
few mihiitfe's 'longer and serve hot.- ' 

A Simple Every-Day Recipe For 
Balcing Red Snapper. 

' Red Snapper au Gratin. 

1 Fine S-tound Red Snapper. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 targe Onion. ' 3 Sprigs of ParslSy. 

■ "' 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 COp of Stale Bread Cniml)s. 

% Tea Clip of Water. Salt and. Pepper. 

Select a fine, Idige^flsh, clean and 

wash thoroughly. Make a dressing 



by taking one cup of stale bread, 
wet and squeezed of all water; one 
large onion and three sprigs of par- 
sley. Chop the onions and parsley 
fine and mix with the bread crumbs 
and fry in a spoonful of butter, 
seasoning well with salt and pep- 
per. Stuff the fish and sew up with 
a soft thread. Then rub the fish 
thoroughly with salt and pepper and 
butter. Put small pieces of butter 
all over the fish and add a few pieces 
on the bottom of the baking pan. 
Pour in water to the depth of two 
inches, cover the pan and bake on 
the outside of the oven, about an 
hour and a half. When the fish is 
baked in the oven it partakes more 
of the character of roasted fish. 
Red Snapper & la Chambord. 
Red Snapper a, la Chambord. 
A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight. 
2 Dozen Oysters. % Can Mushrooms. 

3 Large Tomatoes. 2 Large Onions. 

1 Cup of Stale Bread. 
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 
2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 

1 Bottle of White Wine. 
Salt and Pepper. 
Clean and wash the Red Snapper 
carefully. Cut a space six Inches 
square on the surface of the upper 
side of the fish, and carefully remove 
the skin within the enclosed space. 
Then lard this space closely with 
very fine larding needles, and fill in 
with spice, thyme, clove and bay 
leaf, all minced very fine. Rub thor- 
oughly inside and outside with salt. 
Make a good stuffing by taking one 
dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread 
crumbs, wet and squeezed of all wa- 
ter; one large onion, chopped fine; 
a half tablespoonful of salt and black 
pepper to taste. Mix well and fry 
in a pan with a tablespoonful of 
butter. Stuff the body of the fish 
and sew up with soft thread. Lard 
well- and, after rubbing thoroughly 
with the lard, place in the oven. 
Pour over immediately a bottle of 
white wine and let the fish bake well 
in the wine. In the meantime pre- 
pare the following sauce: Take one 
large tablespoonful ,of butter, one 
i large chopped onion, one sprig of 
I thyme, one of bay leaf. :^rb-wn the 
; onions and butter, being careful not 
to burn, and put in three large to- 
matoes. Add the chopped herbs, 
, brown and add the pint of oyster 
i -water, which has been heated witli 
blanching the oysters. (Blanching 
means to pla'oe the oysters on the 
fire in their own water and heat 
thoroughly without boiling.) Sea- 
son the sauce with pepper and salt 
to taste. Put the fish in the dish in 
which it is to be served, and 'gar- 
nish with the oysters, placing them 
over, the fish and mingling between 
about a half can of mushrooms. Af- 



44 



ter garnishing the fish nicely, pour 
the sauce over all and set in the 
oven a few minutes longer and serve 
hot. 

Hed Snapper With Tomato Sauce. 

Red Snapper Si la Sauce Tomate. 
A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight. 
12 Large Tomatoes or a Can. 
% Can of Muslirooms. 
2 Large Onions. 
3 Sprigs Each of T^yme and Parsley. 
2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 

M Inch of Garlic, or 1 Clove. 
1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 
1 Bottle of White Wine. 
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter, or Olive OH 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
Salt and Red _Pepper. 

Prepare the fish, following the di- 
rections given in the recipe for Hed 
Snapper a la Crgole to the point of 
larding thoroughly. After larding 
pour over immediately the bottle of 
white wine, and let the fish bake well 
in the wine. If wine is not avail- 
able, use a cup of warm water In- 
stead; but the wine enhances "the 
taste of the dish. When the fish is 
done, put one tablespoonful of olive 
oil or one large tablespoonful of but- 
ter into a saucepan, and one large 
chopped onion and let brown; add 
one tablespoonful of flour, and let 
the same brown. Then take the 
sliced and chopped fresh tomatoes, 
or strain a can of tomatoes in lieu 
of the former, and add to the sauce. 
Add immediately a small glass of the 
best white wine, and a halt can of 
mushrooms chopped fine, place in 
the sauce the bouquet of sweet herbs, 
thyme, bay leaf, and add an inch of 
garlic, minced very fine. Season with 
red pepper only. Pour this sauce 
over the baked fish after placing it 
in the dish in which it is to be 
served; set in the oven a few minutes 
and bring to the table hot. 

Redflsh, Sheepshead and Grouper 
may also be cooked according to this 
recipe. 

A Simple Way of Baking Rcdflsli. 

Poisson Rouge au Gratln. 
6 Slices of RedBsh or a Fish Weighing 
Pounds. 
2 Large Onions. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Butter 
S Sprigs of Thyme i Bay Leaf. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A HoUandalse Sauce. 
In families of very moderate means 
thP -RiSflc^ economical to purchase 
the Redfish or Red Snapper by the 
s hce than to buy a whole fish ThI 
liTLZ'^''^, according to the size of 
four o^/ '^ medium-Sized slices, or 
four or five larje slices, will serve 
a family of six. Where the Redflsh 
IS purchased whole it may be ore 
pared for everyday dinner, according 
to the recipe given above for bakinl , 



Red Snapper. When purchased in 
slices, clean the outer edges well of 
the fins, wash and then rub the fish 
well with salt and pepper. Prepare 
some chopped onion and parsley and 
lay in a deep baking pan. Place a 
layer of fish over this and then a 
layer of small lumps of butter and 
chopped parsley and onion. Place 
over this another layer of fish. Cover 
with another layer of chopped pars- 
ley, onions and butter, and place in 
the oven to bake. Bake about an 
hour, basting frequently, and serve 
with a Hollandaise Sauce. (See re- 
cipe.) 

Baked Grouper. 

Grouper au Gratin. 

A Fine Grouper (weight 3 pounds.) 
2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled Shrimp. 

1 Dozen Boiled Crawfish. 
2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 

1 Cup of Stale Bread. 
2 Large Tomatoes. % Can of Mushrooms. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 

1 Bottle of White Wine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean and wash the Grouper thor- 
oughly. Make a cut in the shape of 
the letter "S" on the back and stuff 
this with spice, thyme, clove and 
bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub thor- 
oughly inside and out with salt and 
pepper. Make a good stuffing by 
taking one dozen' oysters, one cup 
of stale bread crumbs, wet and 
squeezed -jDf all water, one large on- 
ion, chopped-fine, a halt teaspoonful 
of salt and a little black pepper. Mix 
well and fry in a pan with a table- 
spoonful of butter. Stuff the body 
of the fish and sew up with soft 
thread. Lard well, that is, rub thor- 
oughly with lard and place in the 
oven. Pour over immediately a bot- 
tle of white wine, and let the fish 
bake well in the wine. In the mean- 
time, prepare the following sauce, 
a, la Chambord: Take one large ta- 
blespoonful of butter, one large 
chopped onion, one sprig of thyme, 
one of bay leaf. Brown the onions 
and butter, being careful not to burn, 
and put in three large tomatoes; 
add the chopped herbs; brown and 
add a pint of oyster water, which 
has been heated by blanching the 
oysters. (Blanching means to place 
the oysters on the fire in their own 
water and heat thoroughly with- 
out boiling.) Season the sauce with 
salt and pepper to taste. Have ready 
in another dish one dozen parboiled 
or blanched oysters and two dozen 
boiled shrimps. Put the fish In the 
dish in -which it Is to be served, 
garnish with the oysters and shrimps 
placing them over the fish, and mine- , 
gle between about a half can of 



15 



mushrooms. Have also ready a doz- 
en nicely boiled crawfish. Garnish 
the flsh with these, placing them all 
around it in the dish in which it is 
to be served. Pour the sauce over 
all and set in the oven and bake a 
few minutes longer and serve hot. 
Where economy is desired Grouper 
may be boiled or baked according 
to the more simple methods given 
above for cooking Red Snapper. Sse 
recipes "Boiled Red Snapper" and 
"Red Snapper au Gratin." 

FLOUNDER. 

Sole. 

The Creoles gave to the Flounder, 
one of the finest flsh found in the 
waters of the Mexican Gulf, the 
French name "Sole," because while 
the flsh was somewhat different in 
size and shape, they found that the 
meat of the Flounder was identi- 
cally the same as that of the "Sole" 
found in the waters of the Mediter- 
ranean Sea. Quick to discover and 
appreciate, they applied to the 
Flounder the name "Sole," and adap- 
ted it to the French modes of cook- 
ing the latter flsh, especially apply- 
ing to it the famous old French re- 
cipe "Sole a la Orly." Otherwise in 
New Orleans the Flounder is always 
either tried and served with a sauce 
"a la Tartare." or baked "a, la' Nou- 
velle Orleans," or "a la Normande." 
or served with -a white wine sauce 
as in Baked Sheepshead. (See recipe 
"Baked Sheepshead," or "Casburgot 
au Gratin.") 

Flounder & la Orly, 

Filets de Sole a la Orly, 

6 Filets of Flounder. A Cup ,of Milk. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Egg. Bread Crumbs. A Tomato Saure. 

Parsley to Garnish. 

Have the fish dealer cut the Floun- 
der in fllets and trim, neatly remov- 
ing all the bones. Beat an egg with 
milk, and dip in the slices of fish. 
Roll in bread crumbs and fry in 
butter. Serve with parsley garnish, 
with a. Tomato Sauce. (See recipe.) 

Flounders & la Tartnre. 

Soles Frites a la Tartare. 

3 Pounds of Flounders. 3 Eggs. 

10 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

A Bunch of Parsley. 1 Sliced Lemon. 

A Sauce a la Tartare. 

Clean and trim the Flounders. 

Beat well ITwo or three raw eggs. 

Have ready a frying pan, with eight 

or ten tablespoonfuls of olive oil. 

Place over the fire. When well 

heated, dip the fish into the eggs, 

roll well and place in the frying pan. 

Cook for about five minutes, turn on 

the other side, and cook about the 

same period. Then drain by plac- 



ing on a heated brown paper. Gar- 
nish a dish with a bed of fried pars- 
ley, lay the Flounders upon it and 
garnish with sliced lemon. Serve 
with Sauce a la Tartare. (See re- 
cipe.) 

Flounder & la Nouvellc Orleans. 

Sole a la Nouvelle Orleans. 
A 3-round Flounder. 
2 Tablespoontnls of Flour. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 6 Allspice. 
1 Sprig of Thyme. 
2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 
1 Can of Mushrooms. Croutons. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Select a fine, fresh Flounder, par- 
boil, by scalding well after it has 
been cleansed. Slit open in scores 
on top and put in butter and salt, 
and set to bake in an oven. Wlien 
it is two-thirds cooked, take oft 
and pour over a cream sauce made 
of two tablespoonfuls of flour, one 
tablespoonful of butter, spice, 
thyme, parsley, sweet basil and bay 
leaf, a can of mushrooms, all chopped 
fine, and cook about five minues. Af- 
ter pouring this over the flsh, put 
back in the oven and let it bake till 
done, which will be in about flftoen 
minutes. Prepare Croutons, or 
crusts of bread cut in diamond 
shape, fry these in butter and use 
as a garnish for the fish. 

Flounder II la Normande. 

Sole a la Normande. 

A 3-Pound Flounder. 8 Shallots. 

3 Bay Leaves. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 

1 - Clove of Garlic. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

2 Cups of Bouillon or Water. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A Dash of Cayenne. Groutons Cut in Dice 

Shape. 

Cut open the Flounder down the 
back. Dig inside under bone to 
right and left, without breaking the 
meat. Chop the bay leaves, thyme 
and clove of garlic very, very fine 
and mix with a half teaspoonful of 
salt and a half teaspoonful of black 
■pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Huh 
the Flounder all over on the inside 
and under the cutting and outside 
with this preparation, seasoning 
thoroughly. Chop the shallots, green 
and white, very fine. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter in a fiat saucepan 
or stewing dish, and put the shallots 
with the butter. Day the Flounder 
on top of the shallots and butter, 
and let it cook slowly on a slow fire 
for about ten minutes. Then turn 
on the other side and cook ten min- 
utes longer. In the meantime take 
another saucepan and put into It one 
tablespoonful of butter and two of 
flour. Dissolve this immediately 



46 



with two cups of bouillon or water 
so tliait-the sauce will be white. Let 
it cook about five minutes, and then 
add the well -beaten yolks of the 
eggs, and one. can of niushrooms. 
Let all cook ten minutes longer, and 
then take the Flounder out of the 
saucepan in which it has been cook- 
ing and lay on a flat silver dish; 
then mix the sauce in which it has 
been cooking with the mushroom 
sauce. Taste the sauce and add salt 
pepper and Cayenne, according to 
taste. Pour this sauce over the flsh, 
around which you will have placed 
Croutons cut as dice and fried in 
the dish, and then cover the fish and 
put it in the bake oven for fifteen 
minutes. Serve hot in the dish in 
which it was baked. 

Baked Flounder, 
Sole au Gratin. 

A 3-Pouiiia Flounder. 1 Large Onion. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
2 TablespoonJrls of Flour. 
1 Bay Leaf. i Sprig of Thyme. 

3 Sprigs jf Parsley. 
1/, Bottle of Wblte .Vine. 6 Fresh Tomatoes. 
2 Doz'jn Lalie Shrimp. 
1 Dozen Oyst'jrs. ^ Can of Mushrooms. 
Clean and wash the fish; place on a 
platter; chop one large onion fine, 
2 Crackers. Ta-j Toast Cut in Dice Shape, 
rub the fish first with salt and blacK 
pepper, then take a large and deep 
kitchen pan, pJace within a table- 
spoonful of butter, the chopped on- 
ion, bay leaf and thyme. Place the 
fish on top of this and pour over a 
half bottle of white wine. Cover 
with another close pan and put the 
whole on top of the oven (not on 
the inside). Bake from the bottom. 
When it begins to boil from below, 
turn the fish over carefully without 
breaking, and let it bake on the other 
side. Take a saucepan and put with- 
in a tablespoonful of butter and mix 
thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls 
of floi'r. Let it brown without burn- 
ing, and then add six fresh toma- 
toes, skinned and chopped fine'; or a 
half can. Add two dozen Lake 
Shrimp that have been cleaned well 
and scalded, a half can of mush- 
rooms, salt and pepper to taste. Let 
d,ll cool: for about five minutes and 
then water with the gravy in which 
the flsh is cooking. Mix well and 
cover the flsh with it. Parboil one 
dozen oysters, and when the fisji is 
cooked, set it in the dish in which it 
is to be served and place the oysters 
all around it on small slices of dry 
toast. Cover the flsh alternately 
with the shrimp and oysters, as a 
garnish over and around it. Mash 
two crackers into crumbs and 
sprinkle over it; also some finely- 
chopped parsley. Place small bits 
of butter alternately over the fish; 
set the dish in the -oven, and bake 



with a quick fire until brown. Serve 
immediately. 

POMPANO. 

Pompano is the crowning glory of 
tlie fish of the New Orleans market. 
It is peculiar to the waters of the 
Gulf of Mexico, Mississippi Sound ana 
the Louisiana Grand Isle shore. The 
word Pompano is derived from the 
Spanish "Pampano," signifying a 
peculiar greenish-tinted plant, and 
the name "Pompano" was given to 
the flsh by the early Spanish flsher- 
men on account of the delicate 
greenish color which- distinguishes 
it. Nothing to be compared with the 
Pompano exists in the Northern, 
Eastern or Western waters, and no 
stranger leaves New Orleans without 
having tasted once of this delightful 
flsh. The New Orleans Pompano has 
a world-wide fame. The Pompano 
used to come in the early spring and 
remain but a few weeks, hence the 
flrst flsh that appeared in the French 
Market were eagerly sought after 
as a great luxury. Pompano are 
more plentiful now and are to be 
found in the market almost all the 
year round. 

Pompano & In Mnltre d'Hotel. 

A Fine Pompano, or Small Ones in Weiglit 

to Equal Three Pounds. 

A Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 

A Tablespoonful of Butter. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

A Sliced Lemon. Parsley to Gamisb. 

Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. _, 

There is only one way to cook 
Pompano and that is to broil it and 
serve with a. Sauce k la Maitre 
d'Hotel. 

To broil the Pompano split the flsh 
in the middle of the back if the fish 
is large; if small, broil whole. Sea- 
son well by rubbing with salt and 
pepper, mixed with a little sweet oil. 
Put the Pompano on the broiler and 
see that it is browned well on both 
sides, using always the double wire 
broiler. When done, place in a 
heated dish (heat by placing in a 
bain-marie or hot water bath and 
dry thoroughly). Butter the fish 
nicely and squeeze the juice of a lem- 
on over it. Garnish with parsley and 
sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce 
ft la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) 
You will have a dish that a king 
might envy. 

SPANISH MACKEREL. 

Maquereau Espagnol. 
Spanish Mackerel is another deli- 
cate and delicious flsh, only to be 
found in the waters of the Gulf of 
Mexico. The Gulf of Mexico was, i" 
early Creole days, a part of the vast 
expanse known as "The Waters of 
the Spanish Main." The early Span- 
ish flshermen found here a flsh resem-' 



47 



bling the mackerel, but of a dainty 
delicacy of .flavor far superior to any 
mackerel yet known to epicures, and 
tliey gave to it tlie name "Spanish 
Mackerel." It stands on an equal 
footing with the Pompano in the es- 
timation of epicures. The Spanish 
Mackerel should always be broiled. 
It is a splendid breakfast dish and a 
famous entrSe at dinners. 

Broiled Spanisli Mackerel, 

Maquereau Bspagnol GrillS. 

A Spanisli Mackerel, or 3 Pounds Weight. 

1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

The Jnice ot 1 Lemon. 1 Sliced Lemon. 

Parsley to Garnish. 

Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. 

Prepare in the same manner as 
the Pompano, serving whole. "Where 
the fish is large, split downwards, in 
the middle of the back, and broil in 
the same manner as the Poxnpano 
and place on a dish garnished with 
pars'ley and -slices of lemon. Serve 
witli a Sauce a, la Maitre d'Hotel. 
(See recipe.) These are special re- 
cipes, used only in broiling Pompano 
and Spanish Mackerel. 

BLUE PISH. 

L,e Poisson Bleu. 

A Fine Bluefish, or Fish in Quantity to 
Equal 3 Pounds. 
1 Tahlespoonful ot Olive Oil. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Sliced Lomon. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 
Parsley to Garulsh. 
Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. 
The Bluefish is a splendid fish of 
the salt-water variety and much 
sought after. It should' always be 
broiled. Split the fish in the middle 
of the back if the fish is large; if 
small, broil whole. Season well by 
rubbing with salt and pepper, mixed 
v/ith a little sweet oil. Put the 
Pompano on the broiler and see that 
it is browned well on both sides, 
using always the double wire broil- 
er. Wlien done, place in a heated 
dish (heat by placing in a bain- 
marie or hot-water bath and dry 
thoroughly). Butter the fish nicely 
and squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over it. Garnish with parsley and 
sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce 
a, la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) 

TROUT. 

De la Truite. 

Of fine and delicate flavor, the 
Green Trout and Speckled Trout are 
, great favorites in the New Orleans 
cuisines. Trout is especially recOTi- 
mended as a breakfast dish, nothing 
being more appetizing than this for 
a morning portion. It may be 
broiled or boiled. Tenderloin Trout 
cut into filets, or cutlets. Is also 



fried and makes a most palatable 
dish. We have the Suit-Water Trout 
and the Fresh-Water Trout, and both 
are excellent. 

Boiled Grecu Trout. 

Truite Verte Bouiliie. 

6 Medium- Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones. 
A Keule of Boiling Water. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of thj-me. 1 Sprig of Oiilun. 

A Clove of Garlic (if desired.) 10 Cloves. 

2 Dozen Allspice. 

A Seedless Red Pepper Pod. 

A Bit of Lemon Peel. 

Parsley aud Lemou to Garnish. 

Select fine fresh Trout. C.ean and 
wash the ■ fish thoroughly. Make a 
small letter "S" with knife on the 
back; pass twine around the body of 
the fish so as to secure it. Never 
wrap or tie in a cloth. Have ready 
a kettle of boiling water and thVow 
in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay 
leaf, eight or ten cloves, about two 
dozen allspice, all mashed fine; a bit 
of lemon peel and a red pepper pod. 
When the water has boiled long 
enougli to iiave extracted the fiavor 
of these ingredients, drop tlie fish in 
carefully, so as to avoid breaking, 
tet it boil about ten minutes and 
then take out carefully. Put into a 
strainer and drain quickly. Place 
on a platter on a bed of parsley, 
with chopped parsley thrown over, 
and garnish with parsley and sliced 
lemon. Serve with a drawn butter 
Hollandaise Sauce, or Sauce Geno- 
ise. ' (See recipe.) If the flavor of 
the spices is not desired the fish 
may be boiled simply in the salt and 
pepper water, with sprigs of pars- 
ley. 

The Creoles add a clove of garlic 
to the boiling water, but this is ac- 
cording to taste. 

Broiled Green Trout, 

Truite Verte GrillSe. 

6 Medium-Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Juice of 1 Lemon. 

1 Sliced Lemou and Parsley to Garnish. 

Follow implicitly the directions 
given under the heading "General 
Rule for Broiling Fish." (See re- 
cipe.) Clean the fish witlaout cut- 
ting off the head or tail. Broil 
whole over a clear, moderate fire. 
Before placing on the broiler rub 
the fish well with salt and pepper, 
mixed in a little sweet oil or a little 
butter oil. If the fish is small, broil 
on a quick, clear fire; if large, as 
mentioned above, the fire must be 
moderate, or the outside of the fish 
will be cliarred before the inside is 
done. When the fish is done through 
and through, which can easily be de- 
termined by the fiesh parting easily 
from the bone, remove the gridiron 
from the fire and loosen the fish from 



48 



the broiler with a knife, being care- 
ful not to break the flesh. Then 
place the hot dish over the fish, and, 
with a dexterous movement, turn 
the two back again, thus separating 
the gridiron from the fish and plac- 
ing the latter in the dish. Butter 
well, season with a little pepper 
and salt, if deemed necessary, and 
pour over a tablespoonfill of chopped' 
parsley and lemon juice. Serve with 
garnishes of parsley and sliced 
lemon. 

Speckled Trout. 

Truites GrillSes. 

Filets of Speckled Trout. 

2 TaTjlespoontuls of Butter. 

Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

The Speckled Trout is usually 
served in tenderloin steaks or filets. 
Skin and cut the fish, after cleaning, 
into filets or square pieces, slicing 
across the back. Remove all the 
bones and rub well with pepper and 
salt, and a little sweet oil mixed with 
the pepper and salt. .Place on the 
gridiron or double broiler and broil 
carefully, turning the broiler fre- 
quently to prevent the fish being 
charred before it is done. When 
nicely browned, place on a bed of 
parsley and garnish with sliced lem- 
on. Serve with Sauce 3. la Tartare. 
(See recipe.) 

Fried Speckled Trout. ' 

Truite Frite. 

6 Filets of Speckled Trout. 

The Tolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk. 

1 Onion. 4 Sprigs of Parsley. 

2 Gills of Mustard. 

14 Pint of Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Select fine Spotted Trout. Skin 
the fish and clean thoroughly. Then 
cut the Trout into filets or steaks. 
Take the yolks of two eggs and a 
little milk and beat together. Add 
salt and pepper and soak the Trout 
well in this, rolling over and over. 
Then take it out of the pan and roll 
in cracker or bread crumbs. Pat 
the fish a little all over with your 
hands and then fry in the same man- 
ner as Croakers. Serve on a bed of 
fried parsley, with garnish of sliced 
lemon, with the following Sauce a, la 
Tartare: Take one large onion and 
four or five sprigs of parsley and 
chop fine. Sque;ze the juice out 
well and parboil, chopping jine and 
squeezing out the water. Prepare 
about one-half pint of Mayonnaise 
Dressing (see recipe) and add about 
two gills of mustard. Mix well and 
add to the parsley and onion and 
juices. Serve the sauce cold. 



Cutlets of FlBll. 

Filets de Poisson. 
6 Tenderloin Trout Cutlets. 1 Cup of Milk. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 
A Mayonnaise Sauce, or Sauce a la Tartare. 
Cut the fish (Tenderloin Trout) 
into filets or square pieces; remove 
all the bones, dip in milk which has 
been freely salted and peppered, and 
roll in flour; drop into the well- 
heated lard so that the filets will 
swim and fry to a golden brown. 
When done, drain on a brown pa- 
per and serve on a bed of fried 
parsley, with garnishes of parsley 
and sliced lemon. With these cut- 
lets serve either a Mayonnaise Sauce, 
a Sauce a la Tartare or a Tomato 
Sauce, preferably either of the 
former. (See recipes for sauces.) 

PERCH. 

De la Perohe. 

The Perch is a fresh-water fish of 
delightful flavor. It should always 
be boiled or broiled. 

Boiled Perch. 

Perche Bouille. 

6 Pine Fresh Percli, 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Onion. 

1 Clove of Garlic (if desired). lO.CloTes. 

2 Dozen Allspice. A Bit of Lemon Peel. 

1 Red Pepper Pod, Without the Setid. 

Parsley and I^emon to Garnish. 

Select fine, fresh Perch. Clean 
and wash the fish well. Make a small 
letter "S" with a knife on the back. 
Pass a. piece of twine around the 
body, so as to secure it. Have ready 
a kettle of boiling water, and throw 
in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay 
leaf, the cloves and allspice, mashed 
fine, a bit of lemon peel and the 
red pepper pod. When the water 
has boiled long enough to have fully 
extracted the flavor of these ingred- 
ients, drop the fish in carefully, s:) 
as to avoid breaking. Let it boil tea 
minutes, and then take out carefully 
and drain quickly in a strainer. Place 
in a dish on a bed of parsley, sprinkle 
chopped parsley over it and garnish 
prettily with parsley and sliced lem- 
on. The spices may be omitted if 
the flavor is not agreeable to some, 
and the Perch may be simply boiled 
in the salt and pepper water with 
the sprigs of parsley thrown in. 
Serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce 
or Saiice Genoise. (See recipes.) 

Broiled Perch. 

Perche GrillSe. 

6 Fine Perch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

1 Sliced Lemon. Parsley .to Garnish. 

Proceed in the same manner Indi- 
cated under the heading "General 



49 



Rule for Broiling Fish." (See re- 
cipe.) If large, split the fish down 
the middle of the back, else broil 
whole. Serve with garnishes of 
parsley and sliced lemon. A row of 
radishes nicely dressed is often add- 
ed to the garnish when It is made 
of lettuce leaves, and sliced, hard- 
boiled eggs. 

CROAKERS. 

Des Grognards. 

12 Small or Six Large Croakers. 
I Pint of Milk. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Croakers are a famous breakfast 
fish. They are of smaller size than 
the Trout generally, therefore, no 
definite rule can be given as to the 
number required to serve a family 
of six, all depending upon the size 
.of the fish. They are most delicious 
wRen fried. To fry the Croaker 
properly fill a small pan with milk, 
and add salt and pepper to taste. 
Roll the Croakers in the milk and 
then take out and roll in dry, sifted 
flour. Have ready a pan of greise 
that has been heated very hot with- 
out boiling. Brop in the Croakers 
and cook till brown. The fish must 
swim in the grease. Lift carefully 
out of the frying pan and serve on a 
bed of fried parsley, with garnishes 
of sliced lemon. 

Many persons roll the Croakers in 
cornmeal, but the above recipe Is far 
daintier and more palatable. 

SACALiAIT-PATASSAS. 

These are delightfully flavored fish 
of the small variety found In the 
Louisiana waters. They are excel- 
lent either fried, as in recipe for 
Croakers, or broiled whole. 

FISH BALLS. 

Boulettes de Poisson. 

The Remains of Any Fish. 1 Large Onion. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

% Egg. Bread Crumbs. 

A Dash of Cayenne. 

Take the remains of any fish, sea- 
son well with chopped parsley, on- 
ions, thyme and Cayenne, and a 
touch of garlic if the flavor is liked. 
Then mince all well, adding a taJDle- 
spoonful of butter and mix with one- 
third bread crumbs, mashed well. 
Beat the yolk and white of an egg 
and roll the balls, shaped in the form 
of a cake, in this. Pat with bread 
crumbs and ifry in butter to a pale 
brown. 



Fish Chowder. 

MS16e Creole. 

2 Pounds of Fresh Flsli, Preferably Redflsli 

or Sheepshead. 

3 Medium-Sized Potatoes. 1 Onion. 

1 ClOTe of Garlic. 
3 Sprigs Each of Thym,e, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf. 
V4 Can of Tomatoes. % Cup of Milk. 

1 Quart of Boiling Water. 

2 Ounces of Salt Pork or Ham Chopped Very 
Flue. 
Grated Oyster Crackers. 
Salt, Cayenne and Black Pepper to Taste. 

Cut two pounds of fresh fish of 
any kind, preferably the Redflsh or 
Sheepshead. Take three medium- 
sized potatoes and one onion and cut 
into slices. Take two ounces of salt 
pork, wash well and chop very fine. 
Put the pork into a frying pan, and 
when it is hot add the sliced onion. 
Smother slightly, and add chopped 
thyme, parsley, bay leaf, one clove of 
garlic, very fine, and Cayenne and 
black pepper to taste. Let this sim- 
mer for about ten minutes longer. 
Pour over this one quart of boiling 
water, and add fish and half a can of 
tomatoes and the potatoes. Season 
to taste, and cover the pan and let 
the contents simmer for half an 
hour. A half cup of milk may bei 
added, if desired. Take oyster 
crackers, place in a bowl and pour 
the chowder over and serve hot. 

LOUISIANA BEILS. . ' 

De I'Anguille. 

Few of the American residents 
of New Orleans know the possibili- 
ties of preparing a most delightful 
dish that lurks in the often-re- 
jected eel. But the ancient Creoles 
inherited the taste of their- French 
ancestors, who considered eels a del- 
icacy, and have evolved from the 
traditional recipes of old France 
pleasing and various ways of serv- 
ing this fish. The most generally 
used in households is called 

dels en Matelote, 

Or, More Familiarly, Matelote 
d'Anguille. 

2 Pounds of Eel, or a 2-Pound Pish. 

1 Large Onion. 

• Pint of Button Onions. 1 Clove of Garlle. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Glass of Good Claret. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 
1 Pint of Oyster Water. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of T?hyme. 

Croutons to Garnish. 

Matelote d'Anguille is a famous old 
Creole dish. The following is the old 
Creole recipe, and when once eaten 
after this mode of preparation, there 
is seldom a refusal to give the eel 
its due credit as a dish fit for the 
most fastidious gourmet. It should 



50 



always be remembered that the larg- 
est eels are not the best for eating. 
The Creoles always reject those tak- 
en from the river, near the wharves. 
The eels found in the bay and lakes 
are the most r6cherch6. 

Clean and skin the eel, using 
about two pounds. Cut in one Inch 
or two-inch pieces, as desired. Take 
one large onion and a half pint of 
button onions, or a clove of garlic, 
and chop fine. Make a roux with one 
tablespoonful of lard, adding, when 
hot, the chopped onions and parsley, 
and gradually adding, when these 
begin to brown, the two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour. Pour in one good glass 
of Claret and a can of mushrooms. 
Add a pint of oyster stock or oyster 
water, and let cook a while. Season 
to taste with Cayenne and salt, add- 
ing bay leaf and thyme. When it 
boils, add the eels that have been 
thoroughly cleansed and placed in 
cold water and allowed to stand 
about fifteen minutes. When these 
are added to the matelote, let it 
simmer about an hour. Serve with 
fancy garnish of Crotltons. 

Fried Elels, 

Anguilles Frites. 
A 2-Pound Eel. 2 Eggs. 

Maslied Bread Crumbs. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Clean and skin the eel and place 
In boiling water and vinegar till 
thoroughly disgorged. Cut into 
lengths of two inches. Wipe dry 
with a clean towel. Beat two eggs 
well and add mashed bread crumbs. 
Roll the eel well in this preparation 
and fry in hot lard, following im- 
plicitly the directions given for fry- 
ing, and remembering that the flsh 
must ajways swim in the grease. 
Drain of all grease and serve on a 
bed of parsley. 

Broiled ISela. 

Anguilles GrillSes. 
2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Teaspoonfnl of Black Pepper. 
% Teaspoonful of Salt. 
A Drawn Butter Sauce, or Sauce a la Tartare. 
Clean and skin the eel as for fry- 
ing. Cut in two-inch pieces and 
boil till disgorged. Then roll in oil 
and pepper and salt. Mix well and 
broil quickly over a clear flre. Serve 
with melted or Drawn Butter Sauce 
and pickles, or a Sauce a, la Tartare. 

Eels a la Mattre d'Hotel. 

Anguilles a. la Maltre d'Hotel. 

2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Tbyme. 

1 Bay Leaf. 6 Cloves. i Dozen Allspice. 

1 Onion Chopped Pine. ] Clove of Garlic. 

A Sauce a la Tartare. 
A Half Cup of Lemon or Citron Juice. 

Fi-led Potato Balls. 
Cut and clean the eel as directed 



and boil about twenty minutes in 
salt and water, putting a great quan- 
tity of salt into the kettle, and add- 
ing the thyme, bay leaf, cloves, all- 
spice, chopped onion, garlic and a 
glass of Claret. Remove the eela 
after cooking twenty minutes and 
serve on a dish garnished with pars- 
ley and fried potato balls. Serve with 
a Sauce a, la Maltre d'Hotel (see re- 
cipe), only be careful to add about a 
half cup of citron or lemon juice to 
the sauce. 

Eels & la Foulette. 

Anguilles k la Poulette. 

2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Can of Mushrooms. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Glass of White Wine. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sffeet Basil, 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Onion Minced Very Fine. 

The Yolks of 3 Eggs. Juice of 2 Lemons. 
A Dash of Cayenne. Salt and Pepper to Taste. , 

Croutons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Clean and skin the eels and put 
in a pot of boiling water. To be sure 
that they disgorge thoroughly add a 
cup of hot vinegar. After boiling 
fifteen minutes, take them out and 
cut into three-inch pieces. Take one 
tablespoonful of butter, put into a 
frying pan, and add the eels and one 
can of mushrooms poured over. Add 
two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed 
smoothly, in butter as the eels be- 
gin to fry. Pour over, when this 
begins to brown, a glassful of white 
wine; and add parsley, thyme, bay 
leaf, sweet basil, and an onion 
minced like the herbs, very flne. As 
the grease rises, floating, skim it 
off. Add a little Cayenne, and salt 
to taste, if necessary. When quite 
done, take the yolks of three eggs 
and mix thoroughly with the juice 
of two lemons. Take the eels off the 
flre and add the lemon juice and eggs 
and be careful not to set back on the 
fire when once tlifese are added, or 
the eggs will curdle. Place on a dish 
and garnish with CroQtons and slices 
of lemon and serve hot. 

STUVGAREE. 

De la Raie. 
The Stingaree is a fish that the 
Americans laugh at, not dreaming 
of the possibilities for a delicate 
dish that lurks within its wings. 
The Creoles, following in the wake of 
their French ancestors, who ate the 
Stingaree found in the waters of the 
Mediterranean, have evolved a dif- 
ferent dish from the old French cui- 
siniSres, but one that holds its own 
even among the many distinguished 
French critics and gourmets who 
have visited our shores. It is called 
Rale au Beurre Noir. 



Stingnree au Benrre Nolr. 

Raie au Beurre Noir, 

2 rounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar. 

1 Tablespoontnl ot Butter. 
-1 -Can of - Mushrooms. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 
1 Glass of White Wine. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 

2 Sprigs of PiirBley. 

1 Onion Minced Very Fine. 

The Yolks of 3 Eggs- Juice of 2 Lemons. 

A Dash of Cayenne, Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Croutons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Take a fine young Stingaree and 
cut oft the tail. Cut the wings from 
the body and throw away the rest 
of the fish. Throw the wings into 
boiling, water and parboil them 
When boiled ten minutes, talce them 
offi the water and then take all the 
skin off. The flesh will then become 
as white as snow. Put one table- 
spoonful of butter in a frying pan 
and let it brown without burning. 
When a nice coffee color, add a hand- 
ful of chopped parsley and let it 
brown for a half minute. Then add 
the juice of one lemon or a spoonful 
of French vinegar. Pour this over 
the flsh, salt and pepper to taste, 
and serve hot. This is a dish much 
affected by Creole connoisseurs. 

Fried Sting^aree. 

Raie Frite. 

A Fine Toung Stingaree. 
1 TaWespoonful of Butter. 
A H'andful of Chopped Parsley. 
The Juice of 1 Lemon, or 1 Spoon of French 
Vinegar. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Prepare the Stingaree wings as di- 
rected in the above recipe. Cut 
it into square pieces of about three 
inches, and let these soak in the vin- 
egar which has been charged "with 
the salt and minced parsley. Then 
roll in egg and bread crumbs and 
fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve 
on a bed of fried parsley, with a 
Sauce a. la Poivrade. (See recipe.) 

Stingaree With Caper Sauce. 

Raie Sauce aux Capres. 

A Fine Young Stingaree. 

A Pint of French Vinegar. 

A Handful of Parsley Minced Very Fine. 

A Teaspoonful of Salt. Parsley to Garnish. 

A Sauce Poivrade. 

Cut off the tail of the Stingaree. 
Cut off the wings, and throw the 
rest of the fish away. Throw the 
wings into boiling water charged 
with salt, and parboil them for 
fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take 
them out ot the water aiid skin 
thoroughly. Place in a heated dish 
and pour over a Caper Sauce. (See 
recipe.) - ' 



Stingarettes, 

Raitons. 

A Fine Young Stingaree. A Caper Sauce. 
Salt and Boiling Water. 
This nam.e is given to the little 
Stingarees. They are prepared just 
like the larger ones, the wings only 
being used. These are soaked in 
vinegar and a little salt,- and then 
fried, after being rolled in bread 
crumbs and beaten egg. Place on a. 
bed of fried parsley and serve. 

ROB. 

Oeufs de Poisson. 

1 Dozen Roe. 2 Tahlespoonfuls of Butter. 
The Juice of a Lemon. 
Lemon Sliced in Quarters. 

Fish eggs are a great delicacy for 
the reason that it is not often that 
sufficient can be bought to supply a 
dinner or breakfast table. The only- 
eggs of fish that are used as an epi- 
curean dish in New Orleans are the 
Roe of the Green Trout. These are 
exceedingly fine and delicate and are 
prepared after the following man- 
ner: First wash the eggs well and 
cut out fibres; butter a silver dish or, 
if you have not one, a nice agate, 
and lay the roe in the dish. Split 
them open, if large, and put a dot 
of butter on top of each. Sprinkle 
nicely with salt and pepper; place 
in the oven, bake a few minutes, 
and serve hot with lemon juice. 

Roe are also used to garnish a 
dish of flsh whenever the eggs can 
be obtained in sufficient quantity. 

FROGS. 

Des Grenouilles. 

Like their French ancestors, Frog 
legs are highly prized as a delicacy 
by the ancient Creoles. Properly 
cooked, they are much more deli- 
cate than chicken and a great dish 
at rficherchS dinners. It must be 
remembered that only the hind legs 
of the frogs are used. These are 
usually sold, cleaned and skinned in 
the French Market. But if caught 
by the small boys of the household 
or the amateur fisherman and 
brought home to be cleaned, the legs 
must be first skinned and then 
thrown into boiling water for five 
minutes. Then take them out and 
put in cold water. When cold, take 
out of the water, and wipe dry, 
with a clean towel. Th'ey are now 
ready for cooking. 

Tlie Pieayuire Frog. 

When the Picayune Frog first made 

, its advent in New Orleans as the 

! "Weather Prophet" of this old and 

I faithful journal, the enthusiasm 

! throughout the city was very great. 

■ "Picayune Teas," "Picayune Souve- 

' nir Pins," with the picture of our 



52 



Frog in all his various garbs as 
"Weather Prophet," became the fash- 
ion of the hour. No entertainment, 
no reunion, no fair was considered 
complete without the presence of the 
Picayune Prog. The Frog soon be- 
came the "Mascot" of every chari- 
table and philanthropic entertain- 
ment, the booth at which he was in- 
vited to take up his headquarters 
generally carrying the fair. So 
great was the enthusiasm that one 
fair lady originated the "Picayune 
Frog Lemonade" in his honor, anoth- 
er originated the "Picayune Cake," 
and so on. At this juncture a fa- 
mous old chef, residing in the French 
Quarter, unable to control his en- 
thusiasm for our distinguished little 
weather prophet, who had left the 
swamps and bayous of this old Cre- 
ole State to take up his abode in a 
great newspaper office, complimented 
him with an original dish, modeled 
up'on the old French preparation of 
a century ago, and named it in his , 
honor. 

With the dish the old chef sent 
the following recipe. It has been 
tried and is acknowledged through- 
out New Orleans to be the most de- 
lightful manner of cooking Frogs: 

Picayune Frogs 21 la Creole, 

A Half Dozen Picayune Frogs.. 
3 Eggs. A Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
2 Gills of Milk or Fresb Cream. 
% Teaspoonful of Salt. 
14 of an Onion Chopped Very Fine. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Take a half dozen Picayune Frogs, 
the more delicate the better. Cut 
off the hind legs and skin. Scald the 
legs about four minutes in boiling 
water, adding salt and lemon juice 
to the water. Then take out and dry 
with a clean towel. Beat the yolks 
an>l whites of two or three eggs, 
and mix in bread crumbs sifted. 
Have ready a pot of heated lard. 
Rub the Frog legs well with pepper 
and salt, and put into the pot of 
hot lard. Let them fry to a nice 
golden brown. Then make a sauce 
as follows: Take one tablespoonful 
of flour, one very large tablespoonful 
of butter, two gills of fresh milk o'- 
cream, and a half teaspoonful of 
salt. Put the butter in a saucepan 
over the Are. As soon as it melts, 
add the flour, which as been rubbed 
smoothly. Stir in gradually, and 
when blended, add by degrees the 
boiling milk, stirring constantly to 
prevent burning. Then take a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley and a 
half of a chopped onion that has beei 
well grated. Have ready two fresh 
eggs, beaten in a bowl. Warm the 
Progs' legs in the sauce, and when 
it begins to simmer stir the sauce 



briskly into the eggs. Return to the 
back of the stove a minute or two, 
being careful not to let the sauce 
boil after the eggs have been added, 
else they will curdle the sauce. Serve 
hot, with the compliments of the 
Picayune. 

Frogs & la Fonlctte 

Grenouilles &. la Poulette 

6 Frog Leg!,. 

2 Tablespoonfuls uf Butter, 

% Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoon Flour. 

1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean and skin the Frogs' legs and 
cut them in small pieces of about an 
inch in size. Have ready a steiv pot 
and put in the Frogs' legs, with salt 
and pepper to taste, and half a lemon 
cut fine. Cover well with water and 
let it cook till the meat is tender. 
When cooked, drain and put the meat 
aside and make a sauce as follows: 
Take one tablespoonful of butter, two 
spoonfuls of flour; rub the flour 
smoothly and put in a sauce pan 
with the butter to melt. Add two 
cups of water and stir well. When it 
begins to. boil well, add a, half can of 
mushrooms. Season with salt and 
Cayenne. Then add the frogs; sea- 
son again to taste, and let this boil 
ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two 
raw eggs well, take the frogs off th3 
fire and stir in the yolks thoroughly. 
Add the juice of one-half lemon and 
serve. 

Frogs Saute fl la Creole. 

Grenouilles Sautfees i, la Creole. 

6 Frog Legs. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

3 Large Onions. 

6 Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay' Leaf. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 

6 Green Sweet Peppers. 

Cup of Consomme or Boiling Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the Frogs' legs. Put two 
tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauce- 
pan and add the legs. Let this 
brown well, being careful not to 
burn. After ten minutes of very 
slow cooking on a good fire, take 
three large onions and slice them 
and let them brown with the frogs. 
Then add one-half dozen nice large 
fresh tomatoes, or a half can; cover 
and let these brown. Cook very 
slowly, adding salt and pepper to 
taste, thyme, bay leaf, two cloves 
of garlic, all chopped very fine In- 
deed. Let the mixture smother 
slowly over the fire, and, if pos- 
sible, add one-half dozen green 
sweet peppers sliced very fine, being 
careful ' to extract all the seeds. 
Stir well and let it smother twenty 
minutes longer, stirring frequently 
to prevent burning. When well 



:.53 



smothered, that is, when the Frogs' 
legs are tender, which Is easily as- 
certained by touching with a fork 
add one cup of broth, if you have 
it, or consommfi; if not, add one 
cup of boiling water, and let it cook 
again for half an hour very slowly 
and well covered. Serve hot. 

Pried Frogs, 

Grenouilles Frites. 
6 Frog Legs. 
% Cup of Lemon Juice and a Teaspoon of Salt. 

2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. 
Parsley, Sliced Lemon and Radishes to Gar- 
nish. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Scald the Frogs' legs about three 
minutes in boiling water and add a 
half cup of lemon Juice and salt. 
Take out of the water ani dry 
with a clean towel. Season with 
salt and pepper and dip into a bat- 
ter made of the well beaten yolks 
and whites of two eggs and sifted 
bread crumbs. Pat the Frogs well 
and drop into the lard, heated to 
a boiling point, and fry to a golden 
brown. Take them from the lard and 
drain well by placing on soft brown 
paper, heated. Place a snow-white 
folded napkin in a dish, and lay the 
frogs upon it and garnish with fried 
parsley and sliced lemon, or place 
the Frogs in a bed of fried parsley 
laid in the dish and garnish with 
decorated radishes and sliced lem- 
ons. 

Broiled Frogs. 

Grenouilles Grill§es. 

- 6 Piog Legs. 

A Cup of Boiling Lemon Juice and Salt. 

1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 

1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Lettuce Leaves and Paisley, or Sliced Lemons 

and Olives to Garnish. 

Clean and skin the Frogs; scald 



well in boiling lemon. Juice and salt. 
Dry with a clean towel. Mix thor- 
oughly a little black pepper, salt 
and olive oil, or butter melted, and 
rub the frogs thoroughly, rolling 
them over and over. Take out and 
put on a double wire broiler, being 
careful to turn frequently to pre- 
vent scorching. When done, place 
in a platter of delicate lettuce leaves 
or parsley and garnish with sliced 
lemons and olives. 



Stew^ed Frogs. 

Grenouilles en Fricass§e. 

1 Dozen Frog Legs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Pint of Water. 

% Pint of Oyster Water. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 

10 Allspice. 1 Clove. 

The Yollc of an Egg. Croutons. 

2 Dozen Oysters. 

Take the legs of one dozen frogs 
and prepare the same as for frying. 
Take a tablespoonful of butter and 
put in a frying pan. "When it begins 
to melt, add a tablespoonful of flour 
and stir constantly. "When it be- 
gins to brown nicely, add a half pint 
of water and a pint of oyster water. 
Throw in the Frog legs as it begins 
to boil, and add salt and pepper, a 
little Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, 
bay leaf and sweet marjoram, eight 
Or ten allspice, one clove. Let it 
simmer about fifteen minutes and 
take off the fire. Have ready the 
yolk of a beaten egg and add, blend- 
ing well, and serve immediately with 
garnishes of Crofltons, and fried in 
a little butter, with oysters laid 
upon them. 



CHAPTER IX. 



SHBLIi FISH. 



Des Crustacfis. 



Under this heading are classed the 
shell fish found in our Louisiana wa- 
ters and those of the Mississippi 
Sound adjacent to New Orleans. 
Oysl:ers, Shrimp, Crabs, and Crawfish 
and the famous Green Turtle — these 
are the delightful varieties that are 
common articles of food among the 



people and which are to be had for 
the fishing. 

That delicious bivalve, the Oyster, 
has its home among us. Everyone 
wliD litis visited New Orleans in win- 
ter l'.:n noted the exceptionally pal- 
atable oysters that are sold in every 
restaurant and by the numerous 



-'54 



small vendors on almost every other 
corner or s6 throughout the lower 
section of the city." In the caf§s, 
tha hotels, the oyster saloons, they 
are served in every conceivable 
'style' known to epicures and caterers. 
The oyster beds adjacent to New 
Orleans send to our markets the 
famous Bayou Cook and Barataria 
Oysters, eagerly sought and highly 
■prized for exquisite flavor and un- 
surpassed in quality. The Missis- 
sippi Sound is well-nigh stocked 
with oysters from one end to the 
other, and millions of cans are 
shipped yearly from Biloxi and other 
points to every part of the United 
States. And so with our celebrated 
Lake apd River Shrimp. No oysters 
are caught in the Mississippi Sound 
between May and September, because 
they are somewhat milky and con- 
sidered unfit for use, and so strict 
are the laws governing the uses of 
dredges in the Sound that a watch- 
man accompanies each dredge-boat 
to see that no attempt is made to 
use the dredge in less than fourteen 
feet of water, the idea being that 
dredges, shall not be used where the 
water is sufficiently shallow to ad- 
mit of their being dug of tongs. 
Thus are preserved, in all their 
splendid flavor and almost inex- 
haustible supply, our oyster beds, 
and while the yearly increase in con- 
sumption of this delicious bivalve 
has tended to alarm scientists and 
to awaken an interest in the ques- 
tion as to whether the American oys- 
ter beds may not likely become de- 
pleted, scientists acquainted with 
the oyster beds on our Gulf coast 
say that for domestic purposes there 
are sufHcient oysters to supply the 
United States. The railroad facili- 
ties for handling oysters can hardly 
be improved, and fresh and fine and 
ready to be eaten, they arrive in our 
markets. The Bayou Cook and Bar- 
ataria Oysters are with us all sum- 
mer, and New Orleans is the ac- 
knowledged commercial center ' of 
the oyster trade on the Gulf Coast. 

New Orleans opened the eyes of 
the United States to the possibili- 
ties of the oyster in every variety 
and form of cooking. Her chefs 
evolved the most dainty and pala- 
table ways ot preparing them, and 
while raw oysters remained practi- 
cally an unknown quantity in aris- 
tocratic centers in other States of 
the Union, the Creoles, quick to dis- 
cover and. apply, placed the raw 
oyster on their table as one of the 
greatest delicacies that could be of- 
fered the most fastidious appetite. 
In the following recipes are given 
the most delightful manner of serv- 
ing 



OYSTERS. 

Huitres a, la Creole. 

The Picayune has already given, 
in the chapter devoted to soups, tlie 
several ways that the Creoles have 
of preparing oysters in this style. 
(See Oyster Soups.) In a general 
treatment of oysters, it presents, 
first, that famous but exceptionally 
palatable manner in which oysters 
can be eaten at all hours, day or 
night, without overloading the stom- 
ach or causing the least symptom ol 
indigestion, viz: 

Raw Oysters on Halt Shell. 

Huitres en Coquilles. 

6 Oj-sters to Each Plate. Cracked Ice. 

Maunsell White or Black Pepper, Cayenne 

and Vinegar. 

Lemon, Sliced or Cut in Quarters. 

Allow six oysters to each person 
where the bivalve is used to begin 
the dinner or breakfast. Have the 
oysters opened in their shell and 
remove onerhalf of the shell. Drain 
the water from the oyster shell, 
without disturbing the oyster, and 
place in plates, with cracked ice, 
sprinkled over with a, quarter ot a 
sliced lemon in the center of the 
plate. Serve with black pepper and 
Cayenne, if desired, or the famous 
Maunsell White, sold in all New 
Orleans oyster saloons. A half cup 
is given as "lagniappe" by the deal- 
ers to their customers. 

A more attractive way of serving 
raw oysters is to remove them from 
the shell and place in the delicate 
oyster plates used by the old Creoles 
garnished with sliced lemon between 
the little bed that holds each oys- 
ter, and placing the Maunsell White 
or pepper and Cayenne in the little 
cell in the center of the dish. 

Again, where these delicate plates 
are not in family use, place the oys- 
ters in the usual dinner plate in a 
bed of finely chopped ice, allowing 
a half dozen oysters for each per- 
son. Cut lemon in quarters and hand 
around with black pepper, salt and 
pepper vinegar. 

' Dainty rolls of fresh butter and 
oyster crackers are served with raw 
oysters. 

A daily sight in our New Orleans 
streets is to see the negro servants 
going at lunch or supper time to the 
nearest oyster saloon with a great 
salver for oysters on half-shell. They 
return with the dainty bivalves 
ranged closely in their open shells 
on the salver, and with a small 
glass ■ of Maunsell "White, and a 
plate of "hard-tack" (oyster breajDi 
or crackers. 

Worcestershire Sauce is often used 
instead of the Maunsell White by 
those who do not like the taste" of 



55 



pepper. But the piquant Maunsell 
White is essentially Creole, origi- 
nated in New Orleans, and gives the 
oyster a toothsome touch that must 
be tasted in order to he appreci- 
ated. 

Oysters Served In a Block of Ice. 

Hultres sur la Glace. 
6 Oysters to Each Person. A Square Block 
of Ice. 

Black Pepper and Cayenne. 
Sprigs of Parsley and Radishes to Garnish. 

Lemon Cut in Quarters. 

This is one of the pr"ettiest ways 
of serving oysters at a dinner or 
luncheon, as well as one of the most 
r^cherchfe. Have your dealer send 
a square block of Ice of the size 
desired and make a hollow in the 
center of the block by placing a 
flat-iron on the top, scooping out 
■with the iron the shape desired. 
Then place a folded napkin on a 
platter and stand the block of ice 
upon it. Pepper the oysters nicely 
with Cayenne and black pepper, and 
place in the ice. Then take sprigs 
of parsley and decorate the platter, 
placing between decorated radishes, 
and alternate slices of lemon, and 
serve the oysters with lemon cut in 
quarters. The effect of this decora- 
tion is very charming. Smilax may 
be substituted for the parsley or 
mixed with it. The cavity should 
be square and deep, leaving walls 
of ice about two inches in thickness. 

Broiled Oysters. 

Huitres sur le Gril. 

6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and 
Cayenne to Taste. 
Melted Butter and Chopped Parsley. 
Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley to Gar- 
nish. 

Allow six or eight oysters for each 
person. The oysters must be large 
• and fat, else they will shrivel to 
nothing in cooking. Drain the oys- 
ters through a colander, lay them on 
a dish and. wipe- with a ■ dry, clean 
towel. Melt butter and dip in the 
oysters, seasoned well with salt and 
Cayenne on both sides. Have ready 
the gridiron ( use ajways the double 
wire broiler) and test , the .heat by 
dropping a littl-e wa,ter on it. If 
the water hisses, the broiler is quite" 
ready. Place the broiler in a warm 
place — just over the oyen will do. 
Butter and place the oysters on it: 
Return to moderate coals. As soon 
as the oysters are browned on one 
side, turn on the other and brown. 
Have ready a heated dish and serve 
the oysters, pouring over melted but- 
ter and chopped parsley (chopped 
very fine). Garnish with sprigs oE 
parsley and sliced lemon and serve 
immediately. 



Broiled Oysters on Tonst. 

Huitres sur Canapes. 

6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and 

Pepper to Taste. 

6 or 8 Pieces of Buttered Toast or Milk Toast. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Broil the oysters according to the 
recipe given above. Have ready a 
heated dish; sprinkle the oysters 
with salt and pepper and pour over 
melted butter. Serve on small 
pieces of buttered toast, or milk 
toast. Sprinkle with flnely-chopped 
parsley. 

Broiled Oysters With Sauce 
Kspaoguole. 

Huitres GrillSes a la Sauce Espa- 

gnole. 
I Pint of Oyster Liquor to Every 2 Dozen 

Oysters. 
1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls 

of Sifted Flour. . 
Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Chopped Parsley.' 
6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. 

Drain the oysters and allow about 
one pint of the oyster liquor to every 
two dozen oysters. Have ready a 
■porcelain-lined saucepan and put the 
liquor on to boil. As the scum rises 
skim it carefully. Put one table- 
spoonful of butter into a frying pan, 
and when it begins to heat, add 
gradually two tablespoonfuls of 
sifted flour. Mix well and brown. 
Pour over this the oyster liquor and 
stir constantly till It begins to boil, 
seasoning with salt and pepper (Ca- 
yenne) and parsley chopped very 
flne. Stand the sauce in a vessel in 
hot water (bain-marie) until wanted, 
and proceed to broil the oysters in 
the same manner as in the recipe 
first given. Place squares of but- 
tered toast in a dish, lay the oys- 
ters on top, pour over the sauce, and 
serve immediately. 

Oysters en Brochettcs. 

Huitres en Brochettes. 

3 Dozen Large, Fat Oysters. Thin Slits o( 

Bacon. 

A Tablespoontul of Butter. 

1 Tablespoontul of Minced Parsley. 

Sliced Lemon and Oli-ves to Garnishi - ■ 

Have ready a 'furnace with red'^ 
hot coals; take fine sliced breakfas.f 
bacon and cut into thin slits about 
the size of tlie oyster. Drain three 
dozen large, fat oysters; take a long 
skewer, of silver or metal that is 
not dangerous, and string it first 
with a slit of bacon and then, afl 
oyster, alternating this until It" "13 
filled, the extreme ends, terminating 
with the bacon. Then hold the oys- 
ters over the clear fire and broil un- 
til the edges begin to ruffle, "when 
they are done. In the meantime pre- 
pare some drawn butter by placing 



56 



about a tablespoonful in a cup before 
the fire to melt; place the oysters in 
a hot dish, alternating with slices 
of bacon, sprinkle with pepper and 
salt, and pour over the drawn but- 
ter mixed with abo\it one tablespoon- 
ful of parsley, chopped fine; garnish 
with slices of lemons and whole 
olives, and serve. The oysters and 
bacon may be served on the skewers, 
if they are not charred or blackened; 
but the other is the far daintier 
method. 

Oysters Broiled in Shells. 

Huitres en Coquilles sur le Grll. 

3 Dozen Fine, Fat Oysters. 

1 Tablespoonful of Finely. Chopped Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. Sprigs of Thyme. 

1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 2 Shallots. 
1 Tablespoonful of 'Butter. Grated Bread 

Crumbs. 
Asparagus Tips and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

• Dozen Well Washed Oyster Shells. 
Take tijree dozen fine oysters; 
blanch in their own water and drain. 
Chop a tablespoonful of fine pars- 
ley, bay leaf and thyme, using a 
sprig each of the latter and a sprig 
of sweet basil. Cut up two nice shal- 
lots very fine and add. Place a 
tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- 
pan; add a little oyster Juice sautS, 
or shake the oysters without making 
a bouillon. When two minutes 
have passed, take oft the stove, place 
the oysters in the well washed shells, 
sprinkle over a little bread crumbs, 
and put on top of each a pinch of 
butter. Have ready the gridiron or 
broiler very hot; place the shells be- 
tween the double broiler, set over 
the fire to broil for about four or 
five minutes, and serve with delicate 
garnishes of asparagus tips and 
- sliced lemon. 

Oysters and Bacon. 

Huitres BardSes. 
3 Dozen Oysters. Thin Slices of Breakfast 
Bacon. 
Minced Parsley. Sauce Flquante. 

Wrap each oyster in a very thin 
slice of breakfast bacon. Lay on a 
broiler over a baking pan in a hot 
oven. Tlemove when the bacon is 
brown. Each must be fastened with 
a wooden toothpick. Serve with 
minced parsley and pepper sauce, or 
Sauc^ Piquante. (See recipe.) 

Fried Oysters. 

Huitres Frites. 

6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. 

Salt and Pepper. 

Finely Grated Bread Crumbs. Parsley to 

Garnish. 

Boiling Lard. 

Drain the oysters, allowing aljout 

six or eight to each person to be 

served. Salt and pepper and then roll 

oysters in bread crumbs, grated very 



fine. Drop in the frying pan of boil- 
ing lard, having sufficient lard to al- 
low the oysters to swim in the 
grease. Remove when a golden 
brown and place on brown paper and 
drain. Serve on a platter garnished 
with parsley or on a bed of fried 
parsley. (See recipe for Fried Pars- 
ley.) 

Fried Oysters fl la Creole, 

Huitres Frites a, la Creole. 

, 6 or 8 Oysters to Each- Person. 
1 Egg. 1 Glass of Milk. 
Va Teaspoonful of Salt. % Teaspoonful ol 

Black Pepper. 
Grated Cracker or Bread Crumbs. Butter Oil. 
Parsley. 
Sliced Lemon and Pickle to Garnish. 
Select the firmest and largest oys- 
ters, allowing six or eight to each 
person. Drain in a colander and 
dry with a soft linen towel. Beat 
an egg thoroughly and mix with a 
glass of milk and a half teaspoonful 
of salt and pepper. Mash bread 
crumbs or crackers in another dish. 
Dip the oysters one by one in the 
milk and roll gently in the bread 
crumbs, patting softly with the 
hands, and drop into a deep frying 
pan with sufficient lard or butter 
oil for the oyster to swim in it. In 
from three to five minutes the oys- 
ters will be done. The time given 
will allow them to fry to a nice 
golden brown, and it will not be 
necessary to turn them if the oil in 
the pan is deep enough. Take them 
out with a skimmer, being careful 
not to break, and drain on a piece 
of soft brown paper. Serve on a 
bed of fried parsley, with garnishes 
of sliced lemon and pickle. Bread 
crumbs are far preferable to crack- 
ers. Butter is often used in frying 
oysters, but the butter oil is found 
by experience to be better than either 
lard or butter. Some also use corn- 
meal instead of the bread crumbs, 
but there is no comparison as to 
results. 

SteTved Oysters. 

Huitres en Fricassfee. 

4 Dozen Large Oysters. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful 
of Sutter. 
1 Pint of Oyster Liquor. 
1 Pint of Rich Cream or Milk. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Take about four dozen large oys- 
ters, drain in a colander. Mix one 
tablespoonful of flour and one of 
butter together. Put one pint of 
oyster liquor on the fire and add the 
flour and butter blended. Have 
ready in another saucepan a pint of 
rich, hot cream. After five min- 
utes, add this to the oyster liquor, 
stirring constantly to prevent burn- 
ing. Salt and pepper to taste. I^t 



57 



it boil up once and then add the oys- 
ters. After three minutes serve. 
This is a very delicate dish. 
Oyster Sautees. 

Huitres SautSes. 

6 or S Oysters to Each Person. 

3 Slices o( Pat Bacon. 

1 TaWespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper 

to Taste. 

6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. 

Olives. Pickles and Sliced Lemon to Garnisli. 

Drain the oysters well and dry 

with a clean towel. Sprinkle them 

with pepper and salt, and roll in a 

little flour. Place the bacon, cut 

into thin slices, in a frying pan, and 

let all the fat fry out. Remove the 

bacon .from the pan and place in the 

oysters, covering the bottom. As 

they turn a golden brown on one 

side, turn over on the other. Serve 

on squares of buttered toast, with 

garnishes of olives, pickles and 

sliced lemon. 

Coddled Oysters. 

HuStres Rotie sur Canapfis. 

6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. 
6 Slices of Bread. 
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. % Tea- 
spoonful of Salt. 
% Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. A Dash of 
Cayenne. 
2 Sprigs of ' Parsley Chopped Very Fine. 
1 Bay Leaf Minced Fine. 
3 Cloves. 1 ■ Blade of Mace. 1 Pint of Oys- 
ter Liquor. 

Toast five or six slices of bread to 
a nice brown and butter them on 
both sides. Drain the liquor from 
the oysters and put it in a saucepan. 
When hot, add a large lump of but- 
ter. Have ready a baking dish and 
place the toast within; lay the oys- 
ters on the toast, having seasoned 
well with salt, Cayenne pepper, 
chopped parsley, bay leaf, mace and 
cloves. Put the liquor of the oys- 
ters over the toast until it is well 
absorbed. Set in an oven and bake 
for five or six minutes with a quick 
fire. 

Deviled Oysters. 

Huitres a. la Diable. 

3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

y. Pint of Cream. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 1 Bay 

Leaf. 1 Blade of Mace. 
3 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt and Cayenne to 
Taste. 

Sprigs of Parsley or Asparagus Tips, and 
Sliced Lemon and Olives to Garnish. 
Take three dozen fine, large oys- 
ters, drain and chop them into mid- 
dling fine pieces. Rub together one 
tablespoonful of butter and two ta- 
blespoonfuls of flour, very smoothly. 
Place in a saucepan one-half pint 
of cream, and, when it is coming to 
a boil, .stir in the flour and butter. 



Have ready the yolks of two eggs 
well beaten, and, as soon as the milk 
boils, take from the fire and add the 
eggs, one tablespoonful of parsley 
chopped fine, one bay leaf chopped 
fine, mace, and a sprig of finely- 
chopped thyme. Add salt and Ca- 
yenne to taste, and add, the oysters. 
Take the deep shells of the oysters, 
which have been washed perfectly 
clean, and fill with this mixture; 
sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; 
put a pinch of butter on top, and set 
in the baking pan and brown. The 
oven should be very quick, and only 
five minutes are needed for the 
browning. Serve the oysters thus 
baked in their shells, and garnish 
the dish with sprigs of parsley or 
asparagus tips, olives and sliced 
lemon. 

Currted Oysters. 

Huitres au Kari. 
4 Dozen Oystei-s. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls 
Flour. 

1 'Gill of Rich Cream or 2 Gills of Good Milk. 

% Teaspoonful of Gurry Powder. 
■ A Pinch of Corn Starch. 

2 Sprigs ' of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs 

of Parsley. 
Salt and Cayenne to Taste. The Oyster Water. 
l^Cup of Louisiana Rice Boiled a la 
Creole, for Border. 

Take four dozen fine, large oys- 
ters and drain the oyster liquor into 
a saucepan, being careful to extract 
all pieces of shell, and set it to 
boil. Wipe the oysters dry with a 
clean towel. Put in another sauce- 
pan one tablespoonful of butter and 
let it melt; then add two tablespoon- 
fuls of fiour, stirring constantly and 
rubbing smoothly; do not let it 
brown. Add about one gill of rich 
cream, or two gills of good milk, to 
the boiling oyster juice, and stir all 
this into, the fiour slowly, avoiding 
the formation of any lumps, and 
stirring constantly. Let this boil 
about two minutes. Take one-half 
teaspoonful of curry powder and a 
t)inch of cornstarch or fiour and rub 
smoothly with a few drops of cold 
milk. Stir this into the oyster juice; 
season a la Cr6ole with Cayenne, salt, 
chopped thyme, etc., and, as it boils 
up, drop in the oysters; let them 
cook about three minutes and serve 
on a dish with a border of Louisiana 
Rice, boiled so as to appear l.ke 
snowflakes, the grains standing 
apart. Sprinkle chopped parsley 
over the oysters to form a garnish. 
Oysters Jl la Poulette. 
Huitres a, la Poulette. 
4 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Sherry. 
The i'olks of 2 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 
Rich Cream. 
Toasted and Buttered Croutons. 
Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. 

Prepare as in the above recipe for 



58 



Curried Oysters, using a gill o£ slier- 
ry instead of the milk and cream, ani 
omitting tlie curry powder. Having 
dropped the oysters into the boiling 
oyster juice, remove from the fire 
after cooking three minutes. Beat 
well the yolks of two eggs with two 
tablespoonfuls of rich cream, add to 
the oysters, and serve with toasted 
and buttered Crodtons, a garnish 
of sliced lemons and parsley sprigs. 

niiucetl Oysters, 

Hultres en Haohis. 

4 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Oyster Juice. 

A. Half Can of Mushrooms. 

1 Gill of White Wiue. 3 Yolks of Eggs. 

1 Tuhlespoouful of Butter. 

1 Gill of Ulch Cream. 1 Tahlespoouful of 

Flour. 

Parsley and Chives aud Thyme, cboppetl fine. 
Scald the oysters in their ov^rn wa- 
ter. Drain and mince, but not too 
fine. Put into the saucepan a table- 
spoonful of butter, and, when melted, 
add the parsley (chopped fine), the 
herbs and the mushrooms. Then 
add the flour, which has been rubbed 
smoothly In a gill of oyster juice, 
and, after it stews about five min- 
utes, add the white wine; if this is 
not obtainable, add another gill of 
oyster juice. Mix thoroughly, and 
then add the minced oysters, and 
stew gently until the sauce is ab- 
sorbed and the mince forms a thick 
batter. Be very careful not to 
scorch. Remove from the Are and 
add in the yolks of the eggs, which 
have been beaten smoothly, in the 
cream. Set it bade on the fire and 
let it remain about one minute, and 
serve on large toasted and buttered 
Crofltons, witli garnish of lemon and 
parsley and olives. 

Baked Oysters, 

Huitres au G.'atin. 

S Dozen Fine, Large Oysters. 

1 TabIei^poonful of Butter. 

Sauce Piiiuante. 3 Shallots. 

1^ Can of Mushrooms. 

1 Tahlespoouful of Flour. 1 Gill White Wine. 

Parsley, Tliyme and Bay Lear, 

chopped fiue. 

Boil the oysters about two min- 
utes in their own liquor, dropping 
them in the liquor as it comes to 
the boiling point. Pass them through 
a "Sauce Piquante," rolling nicely. 
Mix the melted butter and the 
chopped parsley, thyme, etc., the 
shallots chopped very fine, and 
moisten well with a little oyster 
juice; chop the mushrooms fine and 
add, pouring In the gill of wine. Af- 
ter it is reduced, being careful to 
Btlr constantly, select the finest and 
largest shells of the oysters, which 
have be^ cleaned well, and place 
In each four or six oysters; pour 



over each shell the sauce, filling nice, 
ly, in pyramidal shape; place on 
each a bit of butter, and set In tho 
stove for about five minutes, or over 
a gridiron on a slow fire for about 
ten minutes. Serve in the shells, 
with garnish of parsley and le.nons, 
sliced. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Coquilles d'Huitres. 

4 Dozen Fine Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls o( 

Butter.' 

1 Blade of Mace. 4 Cloyes. 1 Sprig of Tliyuic 

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

% Cup of Rich Milic or Cream. 

Va Cup of Oyster Liquor. Grated Bread 

Crumbs. 

Select about four dozen fine oys- 
ters. Have ready a porcelain-li.ied 
baking dish, or any good dish that 
will not darken the oysters. Drain 
the oysters in a colander, strain the 
liquor to remove all pieces of sheil 
and save it. Butter the baking dish 
and place in a layer of oysters, 
well seasoned, a la Crfiole, with Ca- 
yenne, salt, chopped mace, cloves, 
thyme, parsley and bay leaf, chopped 
very fine. Place over a layer of 
bread crumbs, about a half-ineh in 
thickness. Place here and there lit- 
tle dots of butter and sprinkle with 
salt and pepper. Add another layer 
of seasoned oysters, and then anoth- 
er layer of bread crumbs, until the 
dish is full. Then mix a half cup 
of rich cream and milk and a half cup 
of the oyster liquor, and pour over 
the dish. Sprinkle the last layer 
wlth bread crumbs and dot gently 
with bits of butter. Place in a 
quick oven and bake about fifteen 
or twenty minutes, or until a nice 
brown. 

The above is a splendid receipt for 
family use. Where it is desired to 
be more fastidious and scalloped oys- 
ters are served for luncheon, or when 
guests are expected, follow the above 
directions for seasoning and prepar- 
ing the oysters. Have ready about 
one dozen of the deep shells which 
have been thoroughly washed and 
scalloped nicely, taking off the rougli 
edges and every grain of dust or 
dirt by scraping well. Have ready 
a large baking pan., Place the oys- 
ter shells within and fill the shells 
with alternate layers of oysters and 
crumbs, allowing three or six clys- 
ters to each shell; sprinkle with 
bread crumbs, moisten a little with 
cream and oyster juice, and bake and 
serve in their own shells. The flav- 
or of the oyster is highly Improved 
by baking in Its own shell, care be- 
ing taken always not to scrape the 
inside or blanch with hot water. 



59 



Oysters nu Paruiesriu. 

Huitres au Parmesan. 

8 Dozen Oysters. , 

Grated Piiniiesau Clioesc. 

1 Cup ot Griited Brend Crumbs. 

1 Gill o£ White Wiue. 

1 Tublespoouful ot Cliiipped Parsley. 

1 Tublespoontul of Butter. 

Salt, Cayeuue. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 

Brown the bread crumbs in a littl3 

butter, and butter a shallow disli 

and stew with bread crumbs. Drain 

the oysters and dry with a clean 

towel; season highly &, la Crfiole; 

place them, one by one, on the bread 

crumbs; strew chopped parsley over 

them, and the grated cheese, using 

good judgment as to quantitj'. 

Sprinkle lightly with bread crun:bs 

again, and pour over all a gill of 

white wine. Place in the oven, 

whicli should be very quick; let then 

remain about fifteen minutes, till 

quite brown. Take out and pour 

over a little drawn butter, and serve 

with lemon garnish. 

Roasted Oysters. 

Huitres Rotis. 

3 Dozen Fine, Large, Fiit Oysters. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Buttered Toast. 

Clean the oyster shells thoroughly, 
set them on the top of the stove or 
place in a baking pan until the shell 
is easily removed. Remove the flat 
outer shell. Butter the oyster in the 
deep ■ shell and serve very hot with 
salt and pepper. In old Creole fam- 
ilies roasting parties were often giv- 
en and there was always a frolic 
in the kitchen, the belles and beaux 
vying with one another iii roasting 
the delicious bivalve. As the shells 
open put in a little butter. The oys- 
ters were sent to the' table in their 
shells; by a quick movement the 
outer shell was removed, and they 
were eaten with pepper sauce or 
pepper, salt and vinegar. The.re 
were great frolics in the kitchens 
In those days roasting oysters as 
at the famous "Crepe" or doughnut 
parties. 

The good wife who wishes to de- 
light her husband when he comes 
home tired of an evening cannot 
better win her way to his heart than 
by serving him witli roasted or 
steamed oysters. 

Oyster Pan Roast, 

Huitres a. la PoSle. 

A Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Sliced Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. 

The largest and finest oysters are 

used for this purpose. Drain the 



oysters, heat a deep frying pan, 
drop in a generous lump of butter. 
When it melts, add the oysters, cov- 
ering and shaking the pan constant- 
ly over a hot flre. Have ready a 
dish well buttered and nicely gar- 
nished with parsley and lemon slices. 
When the oysters are brown, turn 
quickly into the dish and add suit 
and pepper and melted butter, into 
which you have dropped finely 
chopped parsley, and serve hot. 

Steamed Oysters. 

Huitres a la Vapeur. 

4 Dozen Oysters. 
A Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A Dash of Cayenne. 
This is a -favorite way of eating 
oysters in New Orleans. Have rea-dy 
a pot of boiling water. Drain the 
oysters in their shells and put the.n 
in a shallow tin pan, the bottom be- 
ing perforated. Cover and put tliom 
over the steamer. Let them stand 
about ten minutes, put into a hot 
dish, season with pepper and Ca- 
yenne, and serve with drawn butter 
sauce. If one has not the perfora- 
ted tin, steam the oysters in their 
shells. Wash the shells thoroughly 
on the outside, place the oysters in 
the steamer and cover, letting them 
remain about fifteen minutes over the 
boiling water, or until the shells 
open easily, and serve. A steamer 
may be improvised by using a col- 
ander and a closely fitting pot lid. 
The steamed oyster must be eaten 
when very hot to be appreciated in 
all its flavor. 

Oyster Frtt-ters. 

Beignets d'Huitres. 

3 Dozen Oysters. 

2 Eggs. 1 Cup ot Milk. 

2 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoontul ot Salt, 
yj Teaspoontul of Good Baking I'oniler. 

Parsley or Asparagus Tips to Garnish. 

Take two dozen large oysters, 
drain in a colander and remove any 
pieces of shell or grit that may ad- 
here. Chop the oysters fine. Take 
two eggs- and beat until very light. 
Then add a cup of milk and rub in 
smoothly two cupfuls of flour and 
one teaspoontul of salt. Beat until 
perfectly smooth. Add one-half tea- 
spoonful of good baking powder. 
Mix well and then drop in the 
oysters which must be dry. 
Then drop into boiling lard or oil. 
When browned on one side, turn on 
the other, being careful not to use 
a fork or to pierce them, as that 
would render the oysters and frit- 
ters heavy. Use a skimmer in re- 
moving from the pot, and drain on 
brown paper. Serve on a dish In 
which you have placed a folded nap- 
kin and garnish with sprigs of 
parsley or asparagus tips. 



60 



Oyster Croquettes. 

Crotiuettes d'HuItres. 

3 Dozen Oysters. 3 Gill of RIcb Cream. 
1 Gill of Oyster Liquor. 
2 Tablespoontula of Flour, 
i Tablespoonful of Butter. 
The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 
3 Sprigs of Parsley. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A Dash of Cayenne. A Well Beaten Egg. 
Grated Bread Crumbs. Boiling Lard. 

Take two dozen oysters and boil 
them in their own liquor. Stir con- 
stantly and boil for about five min- 
utes. Remove from the fire. Take 
out the oysters and chop very fine. 
Put them into a saucepan with about 
one gill each of rich cream and oys- 
ter liquor. Rub together two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and one of but- 
ter. Add this and the oysters to tin 
boiling' milk and cream. Stir until 
it thickens and boils. Then add the 
yolk of two eggs. Stir this over the 
fire for about one minute, and then 
take oft and add parsley, chopped 
fine, salt and Cayenne. Mix well 
and place In a dish to cool. Then 
roll in a beaten egg to bind and 
form into cylinders of about a fing- 
er in length. Roll in bread crumbs 
mashed fine, and fry In boiling lard 
or oil. 

Oyster Croquettes fl la Crfiole, 

Croquettes d'Huitres k la Creole. 

3 Dozen Fine Oysters. 

1 Cup of the White Meat of a Chicken Minced. 

6 Finely ^Chopped Mushrooms. 

1 Teaspoonful of Onion Juice. 

% Cup of Cream. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

2 Tahlespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 

Salt and Cayenne Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the oysters about three min- 
utes in their own liquor. Drain and 
chop the oysters fine. Take a half 
cup of the liquor in which the oys- 
ters have been broiled, set it on the 
fire and add the chopped oysters. 
Then add the half cup of cream, the 
chopped mushrooms and tl>e minced 
chicken. Stir thoroughly into this 
boiling mixture the butter and flour 
which have been rubbed smoothly. 
Add the chopped parsley, onion 
Juice, salt and Cayenne, and mix 
well. Then add the yolks of the 
eggs, well beaten. Let it cook about 
two minutes and turn it out into a 
dish to cool. When cold, roll Into 
cylinders about two inches in length 
and one inch In diameter. Pass 
through bread crumbs and fry in 
boiling lard. Serve immediately on 
a bed of fried parsley. 



Oyster Balls. 

Boulettes d'Huitres. 
2 Pints of Chopped Oysters. 
2 Pints of Chopped Sausage Meat. 
1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. 
To every pint of chopped oystera 
add one pint of chopped sausage 
meat. Roll in bread crumbs; sea- 
son highly. Add one egg and roll 
in bread crumbs. Make into small 
cakes and fry In boiling lard. Serve 
hot. 

Oyster Fatties, 

Petites BouchSes d'Huitres. 

4 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms. 

2 Tahlespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Small Onion, Grated. 

Pepper, Salt, Chopped Parsley and 

Lemon Juice. 

Prepare a puff paste (see recipe) 
and lay on the ice to cool. Boil the 
oysters in their own liquor. Drain, 
put the butter in the saucepan, and 
when it is heated, add the grated 
onion and rub in the flour until 
smooth. Add a gill of mushroom 
Juice and pepper, salt and Cayenne 
to taste, and the mushrooms chopped 
in quarters. Then add the oysters 
and let all stew about five minutes, 
adding the lemon Juice. A table- 
spoonful of cream will improve the 
oysters. If this is used, omit the 
lemon Juice. Line the small tins with 
the puff paste and put In each three 
or four oysters according to the size 
of the pate. Cover with the pas-te 
and bake in a quick oven about fif- 
teen minutes. 

To make the open p9,t6s so much 
used at luncheon and entertainments 
in New Orleans, cut the puff paste 
into round cakes. Those intended 
for the bottom crust should be about 
a little less than an elgth of an 
inch thick. Those intended for the 
upper layers should be a little thick- 
er. Take a small biscuit cutter and 
remove a round paste from the cen- 
ter of these latter. This will leave 
a nice ring. Carefully place this 
upon the bottom crust, and then a 
second ring, until the cavity is deep 
enough to hold several oysters. Lay 
the pieces that have been extracted 
Into a pan with these and bake to a 
fine brown in a quick oven. Then 
take out and fill the cavities with 
the oysters prepared as above, fit 
on the top very lightly, and set In 
the oven a second or two and serve. 

Oyster Pie. 

Vol-au-Vent d'Huitres. 

8 Dozen Large, Fine Oysters. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

6 Yolks of Eggs. 

Spices, Thyme, Bay Leaf, Parsley* 

1 Slice of Grated . Bread, 

Take an earthen dish which will 



61 



hold about three and a halt pints 
and line the sides with ricli pld 
crust. (See recipe for Pie Crust.) 
Set in the stove and let it bake a 
few minutes. In the meantime, take 
about one pint and a half of the oys- 
ter liquor and put on the fire, after 
having drained well. Add the sea- 
sonings of chopped herbs and Ca- 
yenne. Rub a tablespoonful of flour 
into the butter and add to the liquor, 
stirring constantly. Mash the 

grated crumbs; add to this, and mix 
well. Chop the hard-boiled eggs 
fine. Then pour the oysters into tha 
pan of pie crust, sprinkle some of 
the chopped eggs and grated bread 
crumbs over, and put a teaspoonful 
of butter in small bits here and 
there over this. Then roll out very 
fine and thin a layer of the pie crust. 
Place this over the preparation and 
ornament here and there, all around, 
with neat notches or designs, which 
can be easily formed with the end 
of a spoon or the prongs of a fork. 
Cut a hole in the center in the shape 
of the letter X. Set in a moderately 
quick oven and bake till brown. In 
the meantime, melt one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, add the remaining oys- 
ter liquor and season with pepper and 
salt. When it is about to come to a 
boil, add one-half cup of rich, hot 
cream or boiled milk, and when the 
pie is nearly brown, put a funnel 
into the opening in the center and 
pour in as much of the liquor as 
the pie will hold. Place a delicate 
garnish of pastry leaves over the 
whole and bake a minute or so long- 
er. -If there is any sauce left over, 
serve it with the pie. 

Great care must be taken not to 
have the oysters over done. For this 
reason the upper crust is often baked 
separately, as the bottom of the pie 
is filled with the ingredients and the 
upper crust placed on and served. 
Else the oysters are laid in layers 
while raw into the crust. But they 
are liable to become too dry when 
used in this way. 

Oyster Salad. 

Huitres en Salade. 

4 Dozen Large Oysters. 2 Cilsp 

Heads of Lettuce. 

The Tolks of Ibree Eggs. Va Teaspoonful of 

Mustard. 

14 Teaspoonful of Salt. 

2 Tablespooufuls of Olive Oil. 

1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. 

Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Oyster Salad is a favorite lunch 
dish. Boil about four dozen large 
oysters in their own liquor, season 
with salt and pepper. Drain and 
set aside to cool. Take two crisp 
heads of lettuce leaves and arrange 



nicely in the salad bowl. Turn the 
oysters into the center of the leaves 
and pour over them the following 
dressing: Take the yolks of three 
■"aw eggs, half a teaspoonful of mus- 
tard, and a little salt; beat these to- 
gether until they begin to thicken, 
and add gradually olive oil, as in 
making Mayonnaise, until it begins 
to thicken. Add a little vinegar to 
thin and serve with the oysters. 

Pickled Oysters. 

Huitres en Marinade. 

Huitres rn Marinade. 

50 or 100 Large, Fine Oysters. 

12 Blades of Mace. 

1 Large Tablespoonful of Allspice. 

1 Level Tablespoonful of Cloves. 

1 Pepper. 2 Sliced Lemons. 

^ Pint of White Vinegar. 

Salt to Taste. 

Vi Dozen Pepper Corns. 

Boil the oysters in their own liq- 
uor until the edges begin to ruflle. 
Then take a half pint of white wine 
vinegar and a half pint of the oys- 
ter water and set to boil, adding the 
blades of mace, cloves, allspice, pep- 
per corns and a dash of Cayenne. 
Salt to taste. As soon as they come 
to a good boil, pour the oysters into 
the boiling liquor. Care must be 
taken to have the oysters very cold, 
as they will make the pickles slimy 
otherwise. After adding the oys- 
ters to the boiling liquid, set it 
aside to cool. Put in a very cool ice 
box and serve cold. This is a deli- 
cious Creole luncheon dish. 

Oyster Loal. 

La M4diatrice. 

Delicate French Loaves of Bread. 

2 Dozen Oysters to a Loaf. 
1 Tatilespoontul of Melted Butter. 

This is called the "famous peace- 
maker" in New Orleans. Every hus- 
band, who is detained down town, 
laughingly carries home an oyster 
loaf, or Mfidiatrice, to make "peace" 
with his anxiously waiting wife. 
Right justly is the Oyster Loaf 
called the "Peacemaker," for, well 
made, it is enough to bring the 
smiles to the face of the most dis- 
heartened wife. 

Take delicate French loaves of 
bread and cut off, lengthwise, the 
upper portion. Dig the crumbs out 
of the center of each piece, leaving 
the sides and bottom like a square 
box. Brush each corner of the box 
and the bottom with melted butter, 
and place in a quick oven ,to brown. 
Pill with broiled or creamed oys- 
ters. Cover with each other and 
serve. 



CHAPTER X. 
SHELL FISH — (ConHmiea.) 

Des CrustacSs 



This chapter embraces methods 
of cooking Shrimp, Crab, Crawflsli 
and Turtle, according to the m03t 
approved rules of the Creole Cuisine. 

SHHIMPS. 

Des Chevrettes. 

New Orleans is famous for the ex- 
o.uisite flavor of the River and Lake 
shrimps which abound in its mar- 
kets. The River shrimp is the more 
delicate of the two and is always eat- 
en broiled as a preliminary to dinner 
or breakfast or luncheon. The Lake 
shrimp oE larger size and firmer 
qualities is used for cooking pur- 
poses, and is served in various de- 
lightful ways, known only to our 
Creole cuisiniSres. From the Missis- 
sippi Sound and the New Orleans 
shore shrimp are sent deliciously 
canned to every part of the United 
States. In our markets they are 
sold fresh from the waters. 

Boiled Slirlmps. 

Chevrettes Bouillies. 

100 Fine River Shrimp. 

A Large Bnncli of Celery and Celery Tops. 

2 Dozen Allspice. 2 Blades of ^lacc. 

1 Duzen Cloves. 

4 Sprigs Bad) of Tliypoe, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf. 1 Ked I'epper Pod. 

Cayenne, Black Pepper, Salt. Parsley Sprigs 

to Garnisu. 

Select fine large River shrimp for 
this purpose. About 100 will ser\'e 
a family of eight. Into a pot of wi- 
ter put a great quantity of salt, al- 
most enough to make a brine. Pepper 
a great bunch of celery and celery 
tops, chopped fine; two dozen all- 
spice, two blades of mace, one dozen 
cloves, mashed fine; thym3, parsley, 
bay leaf, chopped fine; Cayenne and 
a red pepper pod. "When this ha.«; 
boiled so that all the flavor of the 
herbs have been thoroughly ex- 
tracted, throw in the shrimp. Let 
them boil ten minutes and then set 
the pot aside and let the shrimp 
cool in their own water. Serve in 
a platter on a bed of cracked ice, 
and garnish with parsley sprigs. 
This dish is alTvays served as a pre- 
liminary to a meal. A great deal of 
salt is required in boiling, as the 
shrimp absorb but little, and no af- 
ter addition can quite give them the 



same taste as when boiled in the 
briny water. 

Sle-pred SUrlinps. 

Chevrettes a, la Creole. 

100 Fine Lake Shrimp. 1 Large Onion. 
1 Tablespoouful of Butter. 1 Can of Toma- 
toes or 12 Fresh Ones. 
4 Celery Stalks, 1 Clove of Garlic, 1 Sprig 
of Tliyniu. 
2 Bay lyeaves. Salt and Pepper to Taate. 
A Dash of Cayeune. 

Get about 100 large Lake shrimp 
for this recipe. Boil the shrimp 
flrst according to the recipe given 
above, and then pick off the shells, 
leaving the shrimp whole. Place them 
in a dish. Chop fine one large on- 
ion and brown it with a ta- 
blespoonful of butter. Add a can 
of tomatoes or twelve large, ripe to- 
matoes, chopped fine, in their own 
liquor. Stir well and brown lightly. 
Then add three or four stalks of 
celery, a clove of garlic, a dash ol 
Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, two bay 
leaves, all chopped finely and sea- 
soned with salt to taste. After 
this has cooked ten minutes, add the 
shrimp. Let them cook ten minutes 
longer and serve. Never pour water 
into stewed shrimps, as the tomato 
juice makes gravy enough. 

Fried S3irlmp.«i. 

Chevrettes Frites. 

100 Fine Lake SInlmp. 

1 Cup of Milk. Grated Bread Cnimhs. 

Salt and Pepper to Tas1«. A Pasb of Cayenne. 

Fried Parsley and Parsley Tips and Olives 

to Garnish. 

I'^se Fine Lake shrimp for this re- 
cipe. Boil first according to the re- 
cipe given for Boiled Shrimps, Then 
take off the fire, pick off shells and 
season well. Take a pan of milk, 
seTson well with salt and pepper, 
After rolling the shrimp well in 
this, roll them in grated bread 
crumbs or yellow cornmeal (the lat- 
ter being preferable) and fry in 
boiling lard. The shrimp must swim 
in the lard. When they are a nice 
golden brown, skim out with a 
skimmer and drain on heated brown 
paper. Serve on a hot dish on a 
bed of fried parsley and garnish 
with parsley tips and olives. 



63 



Baked Shrlinps. 

Chevrettes au Gratin. 

100 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Tomatoes. 

1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 1 Cup \t Grated 

Bread Crumbs or Crackers. 

Boil the shrimps according to re- 
cipe. Butter a deep dish well and 
place within a layer of grated bread 
crumbs or powdered crackers. Pick 
and clean the shrimp and season 
well. Stew about a dozen tomatoes 
in a little butter and season with 
pepper and salt. Place a layer ot 
the tomatoes in the dish and then a 
thin layer o( crackers or grated bread 
and over this a layer of shrimp. 
Continue till you have tour or five 
layers, the last being of the grated 
bread crumbs. Put little dots of 
butter here and there; place in the 
oven and bake till quite brown. 

Shrimp Pie. 

Vol-au-Vent de Chevrettes. 

ICO Lake Sbrimp. 

2 Slices of Stale Bread. 2 Glasses of Wbite 

Wine. 

1 Blade of Mace. 3 Sprigs ot Thyme. 

Vi of a Ground Nutmeg. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 

5 Tomatoes. % of a Celery Stalk. 

1 Bay Leaf. % Pint ot Oyster Liquor. 

Boil and pick about 100 shrimp. 
Take two largs siloes of stale breaii 
and break oft the crusts, grating this 
fine. Moisten the bread with two 
glasses of white wine, and season 
highly with salt, pepper, a dash of 
Cayenne, ground nutmeg, chopped 
mace, thyme and parsley. Mix the 
s.nrimp with the bread and bake in a 
dish. Sprinkle over the grated, 
crusts and dotting with butter. 
Serve this pie with a sauce of 
dressed shrimp. To make this, take 
a pint of shrimp, boiled and picked; 
put a tablespoonful of butter into a 
saucepan. Add the shrimp and four 
or five tomatoes, chopped fine; a 
little celery, thyme, one bay laaf, 
chopped fine; parsley (chopped) and 
mix thoroughly. Let it cook for 
about three or four minutes and adJ 
a half pint of oyster stock. This 
is delicious poured over the sliced 
pie. 

SItrlinpH in Tomato Cntsnp. 
Chevrettes 4 la Sauce Tomate. 

100 River Shrimp. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Tomato Catsup. 
3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Salt, Pepper and Ca- 
yenne to Taste. 
Boil the shrimp and pick. Put 
them into a salad dish. Season well 
with black pepper and salt and a 
dash of Cayenne. Then add two ta- 
blespoonfuls of tomato catsup to 
every half pint of shrimps. Garnish 
with lettuce leaves and hard-boiled 
egg and serve. 



Shrimp Snlnd. 

Mayonnaise de Chevrettes, 

100 River or Lake. Shrimp. 

1 Small Oulon. 1 Bunch of Celery. 

3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Sliced Lemous, Beets and Celery Tips to 

'(jarulsh. 

Boil and pick the shrimp, accord- 
ing to the recipe given. If Lake 
slirimp are used, serve whole; if 
Elver shrimp, slice in two, as they 
will be more dainty, and season well 
with salt and pepper. Chop celery fine 
and add a little onion. Place the 
shrimp in the salad dish and pour 
over all fine Mayonnaise Sauce (sei^ 
recipe) and garnish with sliced 
hard-boiled e.sgs, sliced lemon, 
beets and celery tops, making a 
beautiful and welcome dish at any 
luncheon, tea or home affair. 

A Sllrlinp Biiali. 

Buisson de Chevrettes. 
lOO Lake Shrimp. 
Celery Tips. Asparagus Tips. 

A Shrimp Bush is a famous Creole 
hors .d'oeuvre, and forms a very 
handsome table decoration aUo. 
Boil the shrimp according to recipe. 
(See recipe Boiled Shrimps.) Take a 
glass fruit or cake stand, the fruit' 
stand with several tiers being th? 
prettier. As shrimp are s.-nall, they 
cannot be hung, gracefully around 
the stand as in a Crawfush Bus';i. 
(See r-ecipe.) They are, therefore, 
piled, first, into a small deep dish, 
and a close cover is put on to press 
them dbwn. They are then turned 
over and will be found clinging to- 
gether in one solid mass. If a cak-^ 
stand is used, set a glass bowl or 
goblet on it. Place the shrimp on 
top of this glass bowl or goblet; 
then take dainty bits of celery tips 
and asparagus tips, and heap around 
as for a border. Another row 
is formed a little lower, and 
again intermingled with aspara- 
gus tips and celery tops, between 
which the pink shrimp are grace- 
fully placed and glimmer. The ef- 
fect is very pretty. Tlie shrimp are 
served from the bush as an hors 
d'oeuvre. The effect of the pink 
against the green looks for all the 
world like a bush of green and red. 

CRABS. 

Des Crabes. 

New Orleans points with pride, 
and Justly, not only to the splendid 
supply ot crabs that are to be found 
at all seasons in her markets, but 
to the various delightful ways that 
the natives have of serving them. 
The following are re'ipes that have 
been handed down by the Creoles 
from generation to generation, and 
no modern innovations of cookery 



64 



have been able to improve upon 
them. 

Hard Shell Crabs. 

Crabes Durs. 
Many Northerners object to eating 
hard-shell crabs on account of the 
difficulty in picking them. Some 
Northern cooks have gone so far as 
to declare the hard-shell crab an 
unpalatable and indigestible article 
of food on account of its shell. This 
idea, of course, is very amusing. One 
Northern authority goes so far as 
to declare that the crab can never 
take the place of the aristocratic 
lobster, the latter being far more di- 
gestible. In reality there is no 
comparison in the delicacy of the 
meats of these fish, which are, in- 
deed, of the lobster variety, the 
hard-shell crab being the small- 
er, and by far the more deli- 
cate. And as for the soft shell 
crab, it is a born aristocrat and is 
acknowledged as such by the most 
fastidious epicureans. There is a 
science in eating the hard-shell 
crab cooked in its own shell. The 
Creoles have reduced this to a fine 
point, and a crab may be eaten 
without once using the fingers, if 
pne only follows the following sim- 
ple direction: 

How to Eat « Hard-Shell Crab 
Cooked in Its Shell. 

The shell and cla.ws should be 

cracked in the kitchen, very gently, 

before being brought to the table if 

the crabs are boiled and served 

whole. By a delicate manipulation 

of the knife and fork, remove the 

"apron" or "tablier," which is the 

small loose shell running to a point 

about the middle of the under shell. 

Then cut the crab claws off, still 

using the knife and fork; and finally 

cut the crab into parts, and these 

again in two. Proceed to extract 

the meat from each quarter with the 

fork and eat with salt and pepper. 

It is considered quite "comme il 

faut" to use the fingers, however, in 

holding the crabs, extracting the 

meat with the prongs of the fork. 

Boiled Crabs. 

Crabes Bouillis. 

1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 1 Bunch of Celery and 

Celery Tops. 

2 Dozen Allspice. 4 Sprigs of Thj-me. 

4 Sprigs of Sweet Basil. 

4 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Blades of Mace. 

3 Bay Leaves. 4 Sprigs of Chives. 

A Red Pepper Pod. A Dash of Cayenne. 

Black Pepper and Salt SufSclent to Make a 

Brine. 

Proceed in the same manner as for 

boiling shrimp. Buy fine, large 

crabs. The livelier they are the 

better. The crabs must be alive 

when put into the pot. Have ready 



a large pot of water. Throw In 
bunches of celery tops, stalks of eel. 
ery chopped fine, four or five large 
sprigs each of thyme, cliopped sweet 
basil, marjoram, chives, two dozen 
allspice, three blades of mace, three 
bay leaves,, chopped fine; a pod of 
red pepper, a dash of Cayenne, blacic 
pepper and salt enough to make the 
water briny. -When this has boiled 
long enough to have extracted all 
the flavor of the herbs, throw in the 
live crabs and let them boil rapidly 
for about ten minutes, or until the 
shells are a bright red, but do not 
let them boil one minute longer 
than this, as they will become wa- 
tery. Let them cool a little in their 
own water and then take out, strip 
off the "dead man's fingers," crack 
the claws, without breaking open, 
and pile high in a broad platter and 
serve with salt and pepper. 

Stewed Crabs. 

Crabes a, la Creole. 

1 Dozen Large Live Crabs. 
Tablespoonfnl of Butter or Lard. 
1 Stalk Chopped Celery. 
1 Dozen rresh Tomatoes or 1 Can. 
Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, 1 Clove, Garlic, 
gait and Cayenne to Taste. 
Boil a dozen fine large crabs about 
five minutes in order to kill them. 
Take oft the fire and place in a dish. 
When sufficiently cooled, cut oft the 
claws and crack, separating the 
joints. Remove the "apron" or "tab- 
lier" of the crab and the "dead man's 
fingers," and take off the spongy sub. 
stance. These are the portions that 
are uneatable. Remove the shell, 
cut the body of the- crab into four 
parts, cutting down the center and 
across. Chop a large onion very fine 
and brown with butter or lard, using 
a tablespoonful of either. Add a 
dozen fine, large, fresh tomatoes, 
chopped fine, in their liquor, and 
brown nicely. Stir in chopped cel- 
ery^ thyme, parsley, one bay leaf, 
chopped fine; pepper and salt to 
taste, and a dash of Cayenne pepper. 
Add one clove of garlic, chopped fine. 
Taste and add more seasoning if 
necessary. Let the mixture cook 
ten minutes, then add the crabs and 
let them cook ten minutes longer. 
Never add water to this sauce, as 
the liquor of the tomatoes is suf- 
ficient and makes an excellent sauce. 
This is a fine fast-day dish. Serve- 
with boiled rice or potatoes boiled- 
whole. 

Pried Crabs. 

Crabes Frits. 

1 Dozen Fine Large Crabs. 

1 Pint of Milk. - 

6 Tablespoontuls of Butter or Lard. 

Stale Bread Crumbs, Grated. 
Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, Onions. 
Boil the crabs according to re- 



65 



clpe. Cut off the claws and crack 
and cut the crabs into quarters as 
for stewing. Season well with pep- 
per and salt. Have ready a pint of 
milk. Mix pepper and salt in pro- 
protions of about two teaspoonfuls 
each. Have ready a pan of boiling 
lard and a plate of grated bread 
crumbs. Dip the crabs into the 
milk and then roll in the bread 
crumbs and drop into the boiling 
lard, frying about ten minutes or 
lentil a golden brown. Serve on a 
platter w^ith the claws piled in the 
center, the bodies of the crabs 
grouped nicely around, and garnish 
Tvith sprigs of parsley. This is a 
delicious way of serving Hard-Shell 
Crabs. 



Stuffed Crabs. 

Crabes Farcis. 

1 Dozen Large Fine Crabs. 

1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

Hot Pepper. 1- Tablesponnful of Butter. 

Salt to Taste. 

1 Cup of Wet Bread. 

Boil the Crabs according to re- 
cipe. Take off the .Are and let them 
cool in their own water. When cdoI 
crack the claws and pick out all 
the meat. In like manner, after hav- 
ing removed the uneatable portions, 
pick out all the meat from the bod- 
ies. Season well with salt and black 
pepper. Chop the onions and herbs 
very fine. Put a tablespoonful 
of butter heaping over into the 
frying pan. As it melts, add 
the chopped onion, and when it 
begins to fry, add the crab 
meat, which has been thoroughly 
seasoned with the chopped thyme, 
bay leaf, parsley and a dash of Ca- 
yenne to taste. Let this fry and add 
a small clove of garlic, chopped very 
fine, and finally add the breid, which 
has been wet and thoroughly 
squeezed of all water. Mix this 
well with the ingredients in the fry- 
ing pan and let it fry about five min- 
utes longer. Then take oft the fire 
and let it get cool. Take a dozen of 
the finest and largest crab shells, or 
as many as this mixture will fill, and 
wash and stuff with the mixture, 
forming it into a rolling , lump. 
Sprinkle this with grated bread 
crumbs and put a dot of butter on 
top, or, better still, sprinkle with the 
melted butter; place in the oven and 
bake about five minutes, or until 
a nice brown. Place on a platter 
and garnish with sprigs of parsley 
or celery tops. This is an excellent 
method of preparing stuffed crabs for 
jfamily use. 



Stuffed Crabs — No. 

Crabes Farcis. 



2. 



2 Dozen large Flue Crabs. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Salt and Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Bay Leaf. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

Thyme, Parsley and Onion. 

Cayenne to Taste. 

Boil the crabs according to recipe. 
Clean and cut and pick out all the 
meat. Chop an onion fine; chop the 
thyme, bay leaf, and parsley and 
hard-boiled eggs, and mix well with 
the crab , meat. Season highly witli 
hot pepper and salt to taste. Put 
one tablespoonful heaping over with 
butter into the frying pan. As it 
melts, add the onion and fry, being 
careful not to burn. Then add the 
crab meat, and, if desired, the very 
small clove of a garlic, chopped very 
fine. Let this fry about five min- 
utes, stirring constantly. Mix thor- 
oughly, fry three minutes longer, 
and then take off the stove. Stuff 
the crab shells, forming a rolling 
lump in the middle. Sprinkle light- 
ly with grated bread crumbs, a'nd 
put a dot of butter on top. Place 
in a quick oven and let them bake 
about live minutes, or until a nice 
brown. The same or even better re- 
sults are obtained by omitting the 
egg, many claiming that the deli- 
cate flavor of the crab meat is more 
daintily preserved without this ad- 
dition, This is a delightful way of 
serving crabs for luncheons, or 
where it is not necessary to make, 
as "the Creoles say, " a long family 
dish." 

Deviled Crabs. 

Crabes a, le Diable. ; 

1 Dozen Fine Large Crabs. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Tablespoon of Salt. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

1 Halt Pint of Cream. Va, Nutmeg Grated. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
The Yolks of 4 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 

Salt and Cayenne to Tjiste. 
Boil the crabs according to recipe. 
Take out and drain after they have 
cooled in their own water. Break 
off the claws, separate the shells, 
remove the spongy portions and the 
"dead man's fingers," and then pick 
out the meat. Put the cream on to 
boil, rub the flour and butter to- 
gether well and add to the boiling 
cream. Stir and cook for two min- 
utes. Take from the fire and add 
the crab meat, the yolks of the hard- 
boiled eggs, mashed very fine; the 
chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, 
salt and Cayenne. Clean the upper 
shells of the crabs, fill them with 
the mixture, brush over with a beat- 
en egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs 
and put in a quick oven to brown; 



66 



or, better still, it you have a. frying 
basket, plunge the crabs into the 
boiling fat or lard until a nice 
brown. But many prefer them 
baked. 

Scallepped Crabs. 

Coquilles de Crabes. 

The Meat of 1 Dozen Picked Crabs. 
A Dash of Grated Nutmeg. 

Bread Crumbs. 1 Egg. 
Pepper and Salt to Taste. 

Boil and pick the crabs according 
to recipe given above. Beat an ess 
thoroijghly and add to the meat 
which has been seasoned highly with 
Cayenne and salt to taste. Take one 
clove of garlic, chop fine and add, 
then sift into this mixture fine grated 
bread crumbs or cracker crumbs, 
and mix thoroughly. Beat an 

egg, roll the crabs into bou- 
lets or graceful meat balls, and then 
bind by rolling lightly in the egg. 
Roll in the bread crumbs, grated 
nicely, and then drop into boiling 
lard, and fry until a pale golden 
brown, which will generally require 
about three minutes. The secret is 
to have them cooked just enough, 
for, as a rule, they are generally 
overdone. Wash and clean the 
shells thoroughly; wipe dry, sst a 
boulet in the center of each and 
garnish prettily with sprigs of pars- 
ley and sliced lemon. This is a 
dainty , dish for breakfast or lun- 
cheon. They must be served very 
hot. 

Crab Croquettes. 

Crabes en Croquettes. 

1 Dozen Crabs. 

) Cup of Wet Bread. Squeezed Well. 

1 Onlnn. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay I^af. 

1 Sprig of Thj-me. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

Boil the crabs clean and pick. 

Then season the meat well with 
salt and pepper. Chop the on- 
ion fine, also the herbs. Put a ta- 
blespoonful of butter in the frying 
pan, and as it melts, add the choppel 
onion. "When it begins to fry add 
the crab meat which has been mixed 
thoroughly with the chopped thyme, 
bay leaf, parsley and garlic. Add 
a dash of Cayenne and put in the 
frying pan with the onion. Add 
the bread which has been thoroughly 
squeezed, and mix all and fry about 
three minutes. Take off the fire 
and when cool form the mixture into 
cylmdrical shapes of about two or 
three mches in length and one in 
thickness. Hon in grated bread 
crumbs and fry in boiling lard 
berve hot on a dish nicely garnished 
with parsley and sliced lemon, 



Crab Salad. 

Crabes en Salade, 

2 Dozen Fine Large Crabs. 

12 Celery Stalks. 1 Dozen Olives. 

A Mayonnaise Sauce.' 

Boil the crabs according to recipe. 
Clean and pick out all the meat. 
Season well with salt and pepper 
and a dash of Cayenne. Chop the 
celery fine and mix with the crab 
meat. Place on a dish in pyramidal 
shape and pour over nicely a Sauce 
a. la Mayonnaise. (See recipe.) 
Garnish tastefully with sliced hard- 
boiled eggs, sliced beets, asparagus 
Or celery tips on top and around 
with sprigs of parsley and asparagus 
tips, with sliced lemon and sliced 
hard-boiled egg alternating. This ia 
a delicious salad. 

Crab Salad No. 2. 

Crabes en Salade. 

1 Dozen Large Crabs. 
2 Tablespoon fuls of Olive Oil. 
1 Tablespoonful of French Vinegar. 
1 Saltspoonful Salt. 1 Head Lottucc. 
Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Pick the boiled crabs carefully, 
keeping the pieces as large as pos- 
sible. Lay in a salad bowl. Mix a 
dressing of two tablespoonfuls of 
sweet oil, one of French vinegar, 
one saltspoon of salt, black pepper 
and Cayenne, according to taste, and 
pour over the crabs which have been 
cooled in the ice box. Clean the 
lettuce well and put a row of crisp 
leaves around the edge of the salad 
dish. Garnish nicely with sliced lem- 
on and hard-boiled eggs sliced. 

This is a delightful and simple 
way that the Creoles have of mak- 
ing crab salad. The above quantity 
will serve six persons. Increase in 
proportion to the number to be 
served. 

Crab Pie. 

Vol-au-Vent de Crabes. 

1 Dozen Large Crabs. 
Sliced Stale Bread. 
Butter. Milk. Cayenne. 
Salt. 

Boil according to recipe one doz- 
en fine large crabs and pick out ail 
the meat. Season nicely with salt, 
Cayenne and chopped thyme and bay 
leaf. Take stale bread and s.ice 
very thin. Lay in a little milk to 
moisten. Butter a baking pan and 
cover the bottom with a layer of 
bread. Then put in a layer of crab 
meat and lay over at intervals slices 
of lemon cut very fine and thin. Dot 
here and there with bits of but- 
ter, and then spread over another 
layer of bread. Then another layer 
of crabs, and repeat till the meat is 
used up. Lay on top a thick sprink- 



67 



ling of tread .crumbs, dotted with 
butter. Place in the oven and bake 
for about twenty ' minutes. Serve 
hot. 

So»-S1icIl Crabs. 
Crabes Mous. 

The soft-shell crab is greatly af- 
fected by epicures, and is a dainty 
dish that graces the most aristocra- 
tic tables. 

The soft-shell crab has always been 
considered a great luxury i.i New 
Orleans, where its possibilities as a, 
most delicate and savory dish were 
f.rst discovered. Northern epicures 
quick to appreciate the toothsome 
morsel, returned to their homes loud 
in their praises of this Creole dis- 
covery. The soft-shell crab is now 
being shipped North, and is a popu- 
lar feature of the Northern markets, 
though the prices range very high. 
It is said that the crab is so deli- 
cate that it does not stand shipment 
very well; sudden stopping of the 
express car often kills them; a clap 
of thunder will frighten them to 
death, while a sunbeam through 
glass will kill every one it shines 
upon. The soft-shell crab is found 
the year round in the New Orleans 
French Market. This crab is at its 
best when prepared according to the 
following Creole methods: 

Fried Soft-Shell Grubs. 

Crabes Mous Prites. 

1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs. 
1 Quart of Milk. Bread Crumbs. 
Salt, Pepper and Caj-enne to Taste. 
The greatest care must be taken in 
preparing and cleaning the crab. 
Wash carefully, removing all sand, 
but do not scald or blanch them, as 
this destroys the fine flavor com- 
pletely. Remove the spongy, fexth- 
ery substances under the side pjints. 
These are called the "ma'n-eaters," 
and are "very irritating and indi- 
gestible. Remove also the sand bag 
or "sand pouch" from under the shells 
just between the eyes; also remove 
the "tablier" or "apron." Then wash 
"tablier" or "apron." Then wash 
well in cold water and dry with a 
clean towel. Take a pint of milk 
and season well with pepper and 
salt; season the crabs and crack 
them in the milk, rubbing thorough- 
ly, so that the milk may thorough- 
ly impregnate them. Take out ond 
roll in a little sifted flour. Pat 
ISghtly with the hand, shake off 
superfluous flour "and fry in boiling 
grease, being always careful to have 
sufflcient grease in the pan for the 
crabs to swim in it. When a deli- 
cate golden brown, take out of the 
grease with a skimmer. Drain on 
a piece of heated brown paper, and 
serve on a bed of fried parsley, with 



garnishes' of sliced lemon. Serve 
with "Sauce ' k la Tartare." (See 
recipe.) 

Soft-shell Crabs are of too deli- 
cate a flavor to be dipped in egg bat- 
ter or burdened with bread crumbs. 

Broiled Soft-Shell Crabs. 

Crabes a. la Creole. 

1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs. 

1 Pint of Milk. 

4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour, Sifted. 

Butter. Sliced Lemon. 

Parsley Garnish. 

It was a celebrated New Orleans 
chef who first decided to broil the 
Soft-Shell Crab. His success was 
great and "Crabes a. la Creole" were 
in great demand at once at the lio- 
tels and restaurants. To broil the 
Soft-Shell Crab always use the 
double wire broiler. Clean the crab 
according to the method given above 
and wash in cold water. Dry with a 
clean towel and season well. Season 
a pint of milk with salt and black 
pepper, and soak the crabs in it so 
as to thoroughly impregnate them 
with the milk. Then pat lightly 
with a little flour and brush over 
with melted butter. Place between 
the broiler and broil till a delicate 
brown over a slow Are. It will 
generally require about flfteen min- 
utes to cook thoroughly. Serve on 
a platter, nicely garnished with pars- 
ley, sprigs and lemon cut in quar- 
ters. Pour over the crabs a little 
melted .butter and chopped parsley, 
and you will have a famous Creole 
dish, fit for the table of a king — 
a dish served at the most aristocrat- 
ic functions. 

CRAWFISH. 
Des ficrevisses. 

Besides the famous Crawfish Bis- 
que (Bisque d'ficrevisses. See re- 
cipe) the Creoles have dainty ways 
of serving this typical Louisiana 
shell fish. Among the most popular 
are the following; 

Boiled CraiTfish. 

Des ficrevisses Bouillies. 

50 Cran-flsh. 1 Gallon of Water. 

1 Herb Bouquet. 

Half Gallon of French Vinegar. 

Put the water on to boil, addins 
the chopped herb bouquet, one clove 
of garlic (chopped fine), one dozen 
allspice and six cloves. When the 
water has boiled long enough to 
have extracted all the juices of the 
herb bouquet, add white wine or the 
vinegar and salt — enough to make it 
almost briny, and Cayenne enough 
to make it hot. Then throw in the 
crawfish and let them boil about 
twenty minutes or until a bright red. 
Set them to cool in their own wa- 



tor and serve oa a platter piled 
high in pyramidal shape, and gar- 
nish nicely with sprigs of parsley 
and sliced lemon. Serve with salt 
and pepper, oil and Chili vinegar, 
each person making the dressing as 
it suits his taste. 

CrnTCfish Baked ft la Creole. 

ficrevisses Gratinges a. la Creole. 

50 Crawfish. 2 Livers. 

^ Can of Musbrooms. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Bouquet of Fine Herbs. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Boil according to rlscipe fifty large 
fine crawfish. "When cooked, allow 
them to cool in their own water. 
Clean them, picking oft the shells 
and leaving the crawfish whole. Take 
out all the smallest ones, and cut 
oil the tail ends of the largest ami 
place with the small ones; take the 
remainder of the large crawfish and 
cut up, and make a dressing with twj 
chopped livers, parsley, the minceJ 
contents of one-halt can of mush- 
rooms, the bouquet of fine herbs 
consisting of thyme, bay leaf, sweet 
marjoram, etc.; chop a half dozen 
shallots and add to the dressing, 
and season highly with Cayenne and 
salt and black pepper to taste. Cut 
up the yolks of two eggs and mix 
with a cup of the soft portion Oi' 
bread, which has been wet and 
thoroughly squeezed of all water. 
Place two tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a frying pan and add the dress. ng 
when it begins to heat; cook about 
ten minutes and then place sin the 
dish in which the crawfish are to 
te served, making- a bed of the dress- 
ing. Arrange with symmetry and 
grace the reserve crawfish upon this 
bed, cover lightly with the rest of 
the stuffing, and dot with small bits 
of butter, after sprinkling with 
grated bread crumbs. Pour over all 
a Cream Sauce and the juice of a 
lemon. Place in the oven and let it 
bake about ten or fifteen minutes, 
and serve with Cream Sauce, sea- 
soned with lemon juice. (See re- 
cipe Cream Sauce.) 

A Crawfish Busli. 

Buisson d'£;crevisses. 

100 Fine Crawfish. Celery Tips. 

Asparagus Tips. Parsley Tips. 

This is a celebrated Creole hors 
d'oeuvre, as also a very handsome 
and graceful table garnish. Boil 
the Crawfish according to recipe 
(See recipe.) Take a glass fruit or 
cake stand and place in the center 
of the table. Set a, goblet upon it. 



Fit the goblet with celery tips and 
parsley tips, and hang a number oX 
Crawfish gracefully around the gob- 
let from the rim or outer edges., 
Continue hanging the dish with cel- 
ery, asparagus and parsley tips, and 
hanging the Crawfish around the 
edges of the fruit stand, and in and 
out amid the greenery. The effect 
of the red amid the green is very 
pretty, presenting the appearance 
of a beautiful bush of red and green. 
The Crawfish are served from the 
bush. 

TURTLE. 

De la Tortue. 

In addition to the delicious soups 
already given, the Creoles serve tur- 
tle after the following manner. 

Green Turtle Steaks. 

Filets de Tortue. 

2 Pounds of Turtle Steaks. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon ana 

Parsley to Garnish. 

Curi'ant Jelly Sauce or Sauce Poivrade. 

Select the female turtle, as the 
meat is best. If bought alive from 
the market, clean according to re- 
cipe. (See recipe for cleaning tur- 
tle. Otherwise the butcher may 
prepare it as is frequently done in 
the New Orleans market.) 

Turtle meat is very irregular, 
therefore cut the meat into thick 
slices or steaks, about the size of a 
filet of beef, and batter down with 
the hands to make smooth and regu- 
lar. Then fry In butter. Season 
well with salt and pepper and gar- 
nish with parsley and lemon, and 
serve w4th Currant Jelly Sauce or 
the delightful Sauce Poivrade. (See 
recipes.) 

Stewed Turtle. 

Ragoat de Tortue a la Bourgeoise. 

2 Pounds of Turtle Meat. 1 Onion. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of 

Thyme. 

1 Cup of Water. 

A Wineglassfnl of Sherry or Madeira. 
Cut the meat of the turtle about 
an inch in size. Chop an onion and 
put all into a saucepan, with a ta- 
blespoonful of lard to brown. As it 
begins to brown, add a tablespoonful 
of flour, one bay leaf, one clove of 
garlic, and a sprig of thyme, chopped 
very fine. Mix this thoroughly witli 
the turtle meat, then add a wine- 
glassful of Sherry or Madeira, and a 
cup of watef, and cook for half an 
hour. 



CHAPTER XI. 
SALT AND CANNED FISH. 



Poissons Salfis. 



Halibut, Salmon, Fresh Codfish, 
Fresh Lobster, Shad and other fish 
peculiar to the Northern and Eastern 
waters are rarely seen on New Or- 
leans tables, except in the great ho- 
tels and restaurants, which import 
them. With these fish, in their fresh 
state, this book will not treat. But 
the Salt Codfish, Salted Mackerel and 
Canned Salmon are in general fam- 
ily use. The Salted Mackerel and 
Codfish, indeed, enter very largely 
into the daily household economy 
of New Orleans, especially on fast 
days, as also sardines. The follow- 
ing recipes are modeled after Cre- 
ole methods of preparation: 

CODFISH. 
' Salted Codfisb. 

De la Morue. 
First, and above all, it is neces- 
sary to "dessaler la Morue," as the 
Creoles put it, or to remove every 
trace and appearance of the salt in 
which the fish has been put up. Al- 
ways soak the codfish at least over- 
night or twenty-four hours before 
using in cold ivater, changing the 
water as often as possible, to assist 
in removing the salt; and always 
boil ori a hot fire fifteen or twenty 
minutes before making into any of 
the following dishes: 

Boiled Codflsli. 

La Morue Bouillie. 
Codfish. 3 Dozen Oysters. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful 
of Flonr. 
2 Gills of Fresli Cream or Milk. 
The Oyster Water. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A Dash of Cayenne. 
Boil the Codfish about thirty or 
forty minutes, after soaking over- 
night; drain and serve with an Oys- 
ter Sauce, or Sauce aux Hultres, pre- 
pared as follows: Make a Cream 
Sauce (See recipe), only use, in this 
case, the strained juice of the oyster 
to blend the flour and butter, and 
add the rich cream or milk to make 
up the desired quantity, using al- 
ways good judgment. Scald the oys- 
ters in their own water about three 
minutes, and then add to the sauce, 
mixing thoroughly, seasoning with 
salt, pepper and Cayenne, using pref- 



I erably celery salt; let it boil up 
once and serve with the boiled Cod- 
fish. Egg Sauce (see recipe) may 
also be used with Boiled Codfish, 
but is not to be compared to the 
Oyster Sauce. 

^ Fried Codllsh. 

La Morue Frite. 

Codfish. 1 Pint of Milk. 
1 Egg. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. 
Soak the Codfish overnight, and 
boil twenty minutes, or until very 
tender; take out and cut into slices 
of one-inch thickness, and dry with 
a clean towel; have ready a pint of 
milk, and season well with pepper 
only; season the Codfish, rubbing a 
little black pepper to taste and a 
dash of Cayenne ' over it. Soak the 
fish in the milk, and have ready 
some crushed bread crumbs and a 
well-beaten egg; when the fish is 
well soaked, take out of the milk, 
and dip each slice first into the egg, 
and then roll in bread crumbs, pat- 
ting lightly, and drop in to the boil- 
ing lard; the fish must swim in the 
lard. When fried a golden brown, 
take out with a skimmer, drain oft 
all fat, and serve hot on a bed of 
fried parsley, garnished with sliced 
lemon. 

Stewed Codfish. 

Morue Sautge a. la Lyonnaise. 

1 Dozen Small Potatoes, or Left-Ovcr. 

Salt Cod, Enough for Six Persons. . 

1 Quart of Milk. 1 Dozen White Onions. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour Blended With Two 
of Milk. 
If the potatoes are not the left- 
over from the day before, wash and 
peel, and also the onion; boil the po- 
tatoes till tender; soak the fish over- 
night, and boil for twenty minutes, 
or until tender. Then cut the fish 
into pieces of about two or three 
inches in length. Put a tablespoon- 
ful of lard in the stewpan and lay In 
the potatoes and then the onions, 
and the Codfish on top; add enough 
cold water to cover the whole, and 
let it simmer until the fish Is well 
cooked. Then take out the fish, and 
allow the potatoes and onions- to sim- 



70 



mer on. Remove every piece ot bone 
from the fish, and tyim edges nicely. 
Take another saucepan and dissolve 
in another stewpan the butter and 
flour, as directed above; let this sim- 
mer gently without browning-, and 
then put in the potatoes, onions and 
fish in the order given above; pour 
over this the quart of cream or milk; 
let it simmer for about ten minutes 
more till the milk comes to a boil, 
and serve hot. 

Creamed Co^Jsh. 

Morue a, la CrSme. 

3 Cups of Picked Codflsli. 
1 Pint and a Half of Cream. 
TLe Yolk of 1 Egg. 
Soak the codfish overnight, and 
then let it boil about forty minutes. 
Then take off scald again and drain, 
and again scald and drain, allowing 
it to stand each time about four or 
five minutes before changing the wa- 
ter. Put one large tablespoonful of 
butter in the frying pan; when 
melted add the flour and blend, 
without browning; then add the 
milk, stirring constantly until ■ it 
boils, and then add the fish, sea- 
soning higlily with pepper and Ca- 
yenne. Let it boil about ten min- 
utes longer, and take off tlie fire; 
then add the yolk, of an egg which 
has been beaten thoroughly, and 
serve hot, with plain boiled potatoes 
buttered. 

Codflsh Balls. 

Croquettes de Morue. 

2 Cups ot Picked Codfish. 

2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes. 

^ Cup of Cream. 

Bretd Crumbs. 2 Beaten Eggs. 

Pepper and Cayenne to Taste, 

Soak the Codfish overnight and 
boil until tenjier. Pour off this wa- 
ter, and scald again with hot wa- 
ter; pick fine, scald again and then 
drain thoroughl'y, pressing out all 
the water. Mash the potatoes, and 
melt about three 'tablespoonfuls of 
butter and mix well in the potatoes. 
Then add the Codfish and mix thor- 
oughly, seasoning with about a tea- 
spOontul of black pepper, and a dash 
of Cayenne to taste. Add this to 
the cream, and again mix. Mold tha 
Codfish info round or oval balls: 
then roll in the egg, which has been 
well beaten, and pass through the 
bread crumbs, patting gently, and 
lay them in a frying basket, it you 
have one, and sink into the boiling 
lard. Otherwise drop Into the boil- 
in^ lard, having tested the heat with 
a bit of bread. The balls must swim 
in the lard. When a golden brown, 
lift out the basket, or skim out the 
balls with a skimmer; drain well of 
all the fat by laying on a heated 



brown paper, and then serve ho: 
on a dish garnished with sprigs ot 
parsley. This quantity will make 
about a dozen and a half balls or 
croquettes. There is no difference 
between the preparation of the Cod- 
fish Ball and the Codfish Croquette, 
the only difference being in tne-iorm 
of molding, the croquette being oval 
or elongated, in cylindrical shapes, 
and the ball being molded round and 
a little flattened on top. 

Codjisli Dacalao, 

Baealao 4 la Vizcaina. 

1 Pound of Salted Codfish. 
1 Large Onion, Chopiied Fine. 

1 Pint ot Rich Tomato Sauce. 

2 Cloves of Garlic, Chopped Fine. Croutons, 
1 Ued Pepper. 

2 Tablespoonfuls ot Olive Oil. 
Pi'pper to Taste. 6 Tomatoes. 

Thyme. Bay Leaf. Parsley. 

Soak the Codfish well overnight, 
and in the morning boil for about 
forty-five minutes, until very ten- 
der. Wlien you set it to boil, put 
the fish first in cold water. After 
it has boiled, scald again thorough- 
ly, and pick out all the bones and 
set away to cool. Then prepare a 
rich Tomato Sauce, according to the 
following directions: Take six 

large fresh tomatoes, or a half can 
of tomatoes, and add a heaping ta- 
blespoonful of butter, four sprigs 
of parsley, thyme and two bay 
leaves, all chopped very fine; add 
two chopped onions and a clove of 
garlic, chopped fine, and which has 
been fried in a little butter. Set 
the saucepan, with the sauce, into 
boiling water, and add pepper and 
Cayenne and a pinch of salt to taste. 
Stew very gently for about two 
hours or longer, it necessary. Then 
strain the sauce and make a rou.K 
with one tablespoonful ot butter 
and two of flour; stir and let it 
brown lightly, and stir in the sauce. 
Boil about tour minutes longer un- 
til rich and thick. Then fry the 
remaining large onion and clove of 
garlic, chopped very fine, in a gill 
of olive oil, or two tablespoonfuls of 
butter it the taste of the oil is dis- 
liked, and when it browns add this 
to the sauce and a red sweet pep- 
per, finely chopped. Cut about a doz- 
en Crotitons. In dice or diamond 
shapes, from the soft part ot the 
bread, and try in boiling lard. Heat 
a dish, put the Codfish into it, pour 
over the Tomato Sauce, border the 
dish with the fried CroQtons, and 
set in the oven, allowing it to bake 
ten or fifteen, minutes longer. The 
Spanish red peppers are the best tor 
this sauce. Black pepper may be 
added if desired. 



71 



SALT MACKBREIL. 

Du Maquereau. 

Salt Mackerel is either boiled or 
broiled, and either mechod of cook- 
ing according to the subjoined re- 
cipes makes a most palatable and 
delicately toothsome dish. 

Boilsd Salt Mackerel. 

Maquereau Bouilli. 

2 Salt Mackerel. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Chopped Parsley and Sliced Lemou to Garnish. 
Soak the Mackerel overnight, and 
in the morning take out o( the wa- 
ter, wash thoroughly, taking off 
every portion of salt, and wash 
again. Have ready a deep pan of 
•boiling water; place the Mackerel 
within and let it boil ten or fifteen 
minutes until done, which can be 
known by the flesh beginning to 
part from the bones. Serve whole 
on a platter garnished with parsley. 
Pour over the Mackerel melted but- 
ter and chopped parsley, and bring 
to the table very hot. 

Mackerel boiled or broiled is a 
very nice breakfast dish on fast 
days. Serve with potatoes, boiled 
whole or made into croquettes. 

Broiled Mackerel. 

Maquereau GrillS. 

2 Salt Mackerel. 1 Cup of Milk. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, or a Cream Sauce. 

Sliced Lemon, Olives and Parsley Sprigs 
to Garnish. 

Soak the Mackerel and wash thor- 
oughly as directed above, only us- 
ing boiling water. Have ready some 
milk, seasoned well with black pep- 
per and soak the Mackerel in the 
milk until thoroughly impregnated. 
Take out and wipe dry with a towel. 
Then dredge the Mackerel with but- 
ter, and place between a double 
broiler, over a slow Are, broiling 
about fifteen or twenty minutes, th3 
under side being allowed to broil 
first. When done, take off and pour 
over melted butter and chopped pars- 
ley; garnish the dish with sprigs of 
parsley, sliced lemons and olives, 
and serve hot. A Cream Sauce may 
be also served instead of the but- 
ter, and makes a very delicious dish. 

SAIiMOjV. 

Mayonnaise de Saumon. 
1 Can of Salmon. 2 Heads of Crisp Lettuce. 

1 Cup of Milk. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls 

of Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Sauce a la Mayonnaise. 

A Mayonnaise of Salmon is a very 

good luncheon dish, and is frequently 

served in New Orleans. To one can 

of Salmon allow two good sized 



heads of young lettuce. Make a bed 
of the crisp hearts of the leaves, and 
tear the other leaves into small 
pieces with a fork, making very del- 
icate shreds. Drain the oil from the 
can of Salmon, and separate the fish 
into flakes. Take a cupful of boil- 
ing milk and a tablespoonful of but- 
ter and two of flour, and Stir over 
the flre until quite smooth. Add to 
this a tablespoonful of chopped pars- 
ley and the Salmon. Season with 
pepper and salt, and let it cook about 
ten minutes. Set away to cool, and 
then place on the bed of lettuce 
leaves. Cover with a Sauce a la 
Mayonnaise (see recipe), and gar- 
nish nicely with sliced hard-boiled 
eggs, celery tips, etc., and serve. 
Salmon Salad. 
Saumon en Salade. 

1 Can of Salmon. 
1-3 the Quantity of Chopped Celery. 
2 Hard-Boiled Kggs. 
Sliced Lemon. Olives. 1 Pickled Beet. 
A Plain French Dressing. 
Canned Salmon may be made into 
a delighful salad for luncheon or 
supper. Flake the salmon, heap into 
a salad bowl, and mix with chopped 
celery, using one-third of the latter 
in proportion to the quantity of 
salmon. Add a Plain French Dress- 
ing. (See recipe.) "When ready to 
serve, turn into a salad dish, on 
which you have arranged a crisp 
bed of lettuce. Garnish with sliced 
lemon, olives and hard-boiled eggs, 
and with one daintily sliced pickled 
beet. 

HERRINGS. j 

Des Harengs. 

The Salted Herrings, such as come 
to New Orleans, must first of all be 
soaked thoroughly overnight, or 
longer, to take away all salt. Then 
they are cleaned nicely and broiled 
and served with a cream sauce or 
drawn butter sauce, preferably the 
former. They are also cut into filets 
and eaten without further cooking 
or "Crfl," as we say here, and also 
as an hors d'oeuvre. 

ANCHOVY. 
Des Anchois. 

Anchovies are served as a prelimi- 
nary to the most aristocratic din- 
ners, being drained of the oil. which 
clings to them after being taken 
from the can. Three or four anch- 
ovies are then placed between deli- 
cate soda biscuit, and tied with a 
bit of ribbon in squares, with a 
dainty bow cut short in the center. 
The effect is very pretty. The anch- 
ovies are also mashed and placed be- 
tween the crackers, like a sandwich 
Either way is excellent and elegant. 



72 



Ancliovy Salad. 

Salade d'Anchois. 

This salad is a dainty disli for 
lunclieon or supper. Have an oval 
dish and arrange the anchovies, 
drained of oil, crosswise on a bed of 



crisp lettuce, or of chopped water- 
cress. Surround with a border of 
chopped whites of eggs and a simi- 
lar border of chopped watercresses, 
and pour over all a sour French 
Dressing. (See recipe.) Ancho- 
vies are used as an elegant hors 
d'oeuvre. 



CHAPTER XII. 
MEATS. 

Des Viandes. 



Meats are, of course, common to 
every clime and country, but not 
every people have the palatable and 
appetizing methods of preparation 
that have been handed down to the 
Creoles of Louisiana by their French 
and Spanish ancestors and so modi- 
fied and improved upon that it may 
be said that they have created a new 
school of cookery In the choice 
preparation and serving of beef, 
veal, mutton, pork and venison. Our 
"roties," or roasts, our methods of 
broiling, our delightful "ragouts," 
our famous "grillades," our unique 
"daubes," in a word, our dozen and 
one highly nutritious and eminently 
agreeable combinations of meats, 
with vegetables, and our unequaled 
manner of seasoning, have given to 
the Creole kitchen a fame that has 
been as lasting as well deserved. 

The Creoles have discovered that 
almost any portion of the beef from 
the head to the tail may be deli- 
cately and temptingly prepared, so 
as to please even the most fastidious 
palates. They have reduced the sci- 
ence of cooking meats to a practical 
system that works the most benefi- 
cial effects in the homes of the poor, 
and which enables the family of 
moderate means to live not only eco- 
nomically, but with as much real 
ease and luxury, even as the wealthy 
classes. 

The secret of cooking meat proper- 
ly, of course, lies much in the sea- 
soning- and the relative time ot cook- 
ing different varieties; but much in- 
deed, everything depends upon the 
choice of the meat. The following 

Guides In Cliooslng Meat 

are given, so that the housekeeper 
may make no mistake in this impor- 
tant choice of the quality of meat 
which she selects for her family: 
Beef, when young, has a fine, open 



grain and good red color. The fatty 
part should be a yellowish white, 
for, when very yellow the meat is 
seldom of the best. Beef in which 
the fat is hard and skinny and the 
lean meat a deep red, with coarse 
fibers, is of an inferior quality; 
when the meat is old, it can be told 
by a line of horny textures running 
through the meat of the ribs. The 
lean on the cut surface shoilld show 
a deep purplish red tint, and the 
beef should be marbled with fat, 
which shows the animals have been 
well fed. 

In Mutton the cut surface should 
have the same purplish tint, but 
should be quite even in hue through- 
out. The color of the muscle should 
be neither too pale nor too dark. If 
pale and moist, it indicates that the 
animal was young or diseased; and 
if dark and livid, it shows that In 
all probability the animal was 
slaughtered , but died with the blood 
in it. Both muscle and fat should 
be elastic yet firm to the touch, not 
moist or sodden, and the fat should 
be free from blood specks. 

While the raw fat of beef should 
be of a light yellow color,, like that 
of suet, the fat of mutton should be 
white. The quality of meat depends 
la;rgely upon the free intermixture 
of streaks of fat with muscular fiber. 
The muscular fibers should not be 
large or coarse,' nor should there be 
any gummy or purple-looking fluid 
in the cellular tissues. The surface 
of good meat should be perfectly 
• dry, and even the cut surface should 
scarcely wet the finger. 

The muscular fiber of beef in poor 
condition or wasting from disease 
is pale in color, and a quantity of 
watery fat of bad colCr is mixed 
up with it. The meat itself is wet, 
fiabby and inelastic and pits when 
the point of the finger is pressed 



ag£Lthst it: Such meat, it need hard- 
ly be said, is unfit (or human food. 

The odor of good meat should be 
slight and not by any means disa- 
greeable. An unpleasant odor indi- 
cates that putrefaction has begun 
or that the meat is diseased. A very 
good plan to detect any unpleasant- 
ness of odor is to thrust a clean knife 
into the flesh. If any disagreeable 
odor clings, the meat is unfit for 
use. 

The internal parts, that are so gen- 
erally used in cooking, such as the 
heart, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, 
should have no unpleasant smell and 
must be free from spots of conges- 
tion or bruises. As these parts de- 
compose much more rapidly than the 
flesh of the carcass, they should not 
be kept long before being cooked, 
and, when cooked, should not be sub- 
jected to a very strong or prolonged 
heat, because it makes them hard 
and indigestible. 

The amount of bone in meat varies 
considerably, but, on the average, it 
is not less than 8 per cent. Iii shins 
and legs of beef, it amounts to one- 
third, and sometimes to one-half the 
total weight, while in the neck and 
brisket it amounts to about 10 per 
cent. The most economical parts 
are the round and thick flank, then 
the. sticking pieee and- brisket, and 
lastly the leg. In mutton and pork 
the leg is the most profitable, and 
then the shoulder. 

Sheep heads make excellent broth, 
and ox tail a veiy good soup, but 
both require longer time to extract 
the nutriment wholly. If boiled for 
eight hours, the head of the ox will 
yield about one fourth of its weight 
in gelatine, and the cheek will fur- 
nish nearly four pounds of good 
meat. Shins of beef malfa excellent 
soup, but, like the ox head, require 
long-er boiling; Even bones, when 
stripped of the meat, contain a con- 
siderable amount of fat and nitro- 
genous matter, so that six pounds 
of bones, when broken up and boiled 
for nine hours, will yield an amount 
of nitrogen equal to that contained 
in a pound of meat and twice as much 
fat. The old Creole cooks always 
ask the butcher to throw in some 
bones (cracked) when they purchase 
meat for soup. 

Mutton must be chosen for the 
firmness and fineness of the grain, 
its color and the firm, white fat. 
Good mutton is generally small. 

Lamb that has been killed too 
long can be detected by examination 
of the veins on the neck. If these 
are bluish, then the meat is fresh;, 
if greenish, the meat is stale. In 
the hind quarter the point to exam- 
ine is the knuckle, which is not firm 
when the meat is not perfectly fresh. 



The best veal is very firm and of a 
pinkish white. Never purchase veal 
that has a bluish tinge. The veal 
should not be less than six weeks 
old, nor more than six months. The 
best season for veal is from April to 
October; from that time till the next 
April the meat is not very good and 
generally stringy. Like all young 
meats it spoils very quickly, espe- 
cially in our climate. "Veal should 
always be well cooked. It furnishes 
an endelss variety of dishes. 

Mutton is divided into the fore 
and hind quarters, and these are 
subdivided into the leg and the loin. 
The fore quarter is subdivided into 
the shoulder, breast and neck. A 
saddle of mutton is two loins. The 
fatter the mutton the more tender 
the lean parts, but the mutton must 
never be overgrown nor over-fat. The 
leg, shoulder and loins of mutton 
make nice roasting pieces. The 
breast and neck are good for soups 
and stews. The loins are also cut 
into French chops and loin chops. 

Pork, in every form, is indiges- 
tible, and should never be eaten by 
persons of weak digestion, by young 
children, nor by the old and feeble. 
In New Orleans it should only be 
eaten between December and April, 
when the weather is very cold; never 
in summer or late spring and au- 
tumn. Pork should always be thor- 
oughly cooked. In selecting pork 
be guided by the grain of the meat. 
It should always be of a fine grain 
and the skin smooth. The lean must 
be of a pale red color, the fat white 
and the skin smooth and clear. If 
the flesh is soft, and if the fat is of 
a yellowish white, or full of small 
kernels, reject the meat, as it is sure- 
ly diseased and unfit for food. 

Pork is divided into the leg, shoul- 
der, the chine, the spare ribs, mid- 
dlings, head and feet. The best parts 
for roasting are the loins and legs. 
But the nicest roast is always the 
sucking pig or "cochon de lait," as 
the Creoles call it. The sucking pig 
should be no more than four or five 
weeks old and not less, and should 
always be roasted the day after it 
is killed. 

Bacon differs from ha,m and meat 
in the relatively large proportions 
of fat and the small proportion of 
water. It Is a great favorite with all 
classes on account of its fiavor. its 
facilities for cooking, the many com- 
binations into which it enters in 
preparation of delicate dishes, and 
because it is easily kept and always 
handy.- As it is rich in carbona- 
ceous food, it forms a suitable ad- 
junct to substances which are rich 
rabbits, eggs, beans, peas, cabbage, 
turnips and lentils. Its flivoring 



74 



qualities can make a dish of the 
homeliest vegetables palatable as 
well as nutritious. 

With these suggestions as to 
choosing meat and the relative value 
of food properties they contain, the 
Picayune vi'ill lay down the following 

Unfailing Rule Which the Creoles 
Follow 

in cooking meats; 

Always remember that Beef and 
Mutton must be cooked rare, and 
Pork and Veal well done. 

Beet should always be roasted, 
broiled or smothered. 

Mutton may be roasted, broiled 
boiled or stewed. 

Veal may be roasted, stewed, 
smothered or fried, when cut into 
chops. 

Pork is always roasted or fried. 

Ham is broiled, boiled or fried. 

Bacon is broiled, fried or boiled, 
the latter when cooked with ve.ge- 
tables. 

Venison is roasted or made into 
"ragout," like Beef a. la Mode, and 
the cutlets are broiled. The meat 
of venison should be of fine grain 
and well covered with fat. If the 
venison is very young, the hoofs are 
but slightly opened; if old, the hoofs 
stand wide apart. 

With this preliminary the Pica- 
yune will now present the various 
Creole forms of preparing meats. 

BEEF. 

Du Boeuf. 
Roast Beef. 

Boeuf Roti. 
The first four ribs of the beef are 
always the best for a roast. The 
tenderloin lies here, and two good 
ribs or a "full cut," as the butchers 
term it, should be enough to mak2 
a fine roast for a family of six. Al- 
ways remember that if the roast 
IS cut too thin, the Juices dry too 
rapidly and the exquisite flavor is 
gone. After the ribs come the sir- 
loin and the spine bone as seconl- 
and third choice. Have the butcher 
skewer the roast so that it will 
have a nice shape when it comes on 
the table and will retain all the 
Juice of the beef. Leave the bones 
in the -roast, as the meat will be far 
sweeter than when taken out. Rub 
the meat well with salt and p.epper 
dredge slightly with lard arid set 
in a hot oven. The heat of the oven 
at once - coagulates the blood and 
prevents it from escaping, thus ren- 
dering the meat nutritious. Every 
now and then baste the beef with 
Its own Juices and let it cook add- 
ing ho water, as suflieient fat runs 
from the beef to baste with. Allow 
fifteen minutes to every pound of 
meat if one likes the meat rare 



otherwise allow twenty minutes. But 
the Creoles always roast beef rare. 
To ascertain the desired state, occa- 
sionally stick a needle into the beef. 
If the blood spurts up, the meat is 
ready to serve, and, cooked to this 
point, is a most nutritious dish. 
Watch carefully and do not let it 
pass this stage. Serve on a dish in 
its own gravy. The practice of 
making a gravy of flour, etc., for 
roast beef is condemned by the best 
ethics of Creole cookery. 

PUct of Beef I..arded. 

Filet de Boeuf PiquS. 

■ 1 Filet of Beef. 

Lard Sufflcient to Lard Thoroughly. 

1 Small Onloa. 1 Bay Leaf. 

4 Cloves, if desired. 

I'A Tablespoonfuls of ■ Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Glace. (See receipt.) 

1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine (or Water). 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Trim the filet nicely, removing the 
outer muscular skin. Lard the fllet 
well, using larding needles. The lard 
must be very thin, like a shoestring. 
The larding is done by filling the 
needles with the lard and pushing 
them through the filet as far as 
they will go. If the needles are 
long enough, thej' will come out on 
llie other side of the filet, leaving the 
lard within. Repeat this process all 
down the center and along the sides 
-of 'the fllet, about an inch apart, and 
have the rows neat and even. If 
you have not a larding needle, make 
incisions with a knife, and push the 
lard in with your finger, but the fllet 
is never as Juicy and tender, nor 
does it look so clean and even when 
baked. When well larded, dredge 
well with salt and pepper, rubbing 
this thoroughly into the beef.. Cut up 
one small onion, one bay leaf, and 
mash four cloves, and place in the 
bottom of the baking pan. Lay the 
larded filet on this bed, the larded 
side being uppermost. Put small 
bits of butter equal to a half table- 
spoonful on top, and bake in a quick 
oven thirty minutes. This dish is 
always' eaten rare. To ascertain If 
sufliciently done, stick a fork into the 
fllet; if the blood bubbles out, it is 
ready to serve. The meat when done 
is always spongy and elastic to the 
touch. 

In the meantime, prepare the fol- 
lowing brown sauce: Take one ta- 
blespoonful of butter and one of 
Glace (see recipe under chapter 
"Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc."), and 
three of water; rub smoothly and 
melt in a saucepan, stirring con- 
stantly to prevent burning. When 
brown, add one glass of Madeira or 
Sherry wine and add a half cup of 
water. Season well with salt and 
pepper. Pour over the filet, which 
must be placed in a hot dish, and 
serve. 



75 



Fllet of Beef linrilecl WltU Mush- 
roonia. 

Filet de Boeuf PiquS aux Cham- 
pignons. 

1 Filet of Beef. 

^ Can of Mushrooms. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Trim and lard the beef according 
to the directions given in the above 
recipe, and balce in the same man- 
ner — rare. When it has cooked for 
a half hour In a quick oven, it vifill 
be done. Then make a sauce as fol- 
lows: Take one tablespoonful of but- 
ter and one of Glace and three of 
water; melt the butter and add the 
Glace, browning nicely without burn- 
ing, and stirring constantly. When 
brown 'add one glass of Madeira or, 
Sherry wine, if desired, and one-half 
pint of water. Season well with salt 
and pepper. Then add a half can of 
mushrooms, chopped very fine. Stir 
well and let it boil about ten min- 
utes, so as not to be too thick nor 
yet too thin. The intelligent cook 
will judge by tasting to see that it 
is seasoned properly. Place the fllet 
in a hot dish and pour the sauce over 
and serve hot. 

Fllet of Beef With Truffles. 

Filet de Boeuf PiquS aux Trutfes ou 
a. la PSrigeux. 

1 Fllet of Beet. Vs, Can of Truffles. 

J6 Glass of Sherry. 1 Pint of Broth or Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Proceed in the same manner as in 
the preparation of Filet of Beef 
Larded. When it has baked for a 
half hour, make a sauce as follows: 
One tablespoonful of butter in a 
saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of 
Glace (see recipe under chapter 
"Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.") and 
add a half wineglass of Sherry and 
one pint of broth or water. Let it 
boil slowly for ten minutes, ani add 
one-half can of truffles, chopped very 
fine, if a, la Pgrigeux; if aux truftes, 
cut in dice.. Let.thesauce boil slowly 
twenty minutes longer, and then pour 
over the fllet, serving hot. 

Truffles are always an expensive 
dish and quite above the means of 
the great majority of people. Ths 
dish should never be attempted by a 
family who wishes to live economi- 
cally. 

Broiled Beefetcak. 

Filet de Boeuf GrillS. 

3 Pounds of Steak for Broiling Purf>oscs. 

1 TahlesDoonful ot Butter. The Juice of 

1 Lemon. 

Chopped Parsley and Lettuce Leaves 

to Garnish. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The cut known as the "Porterhouse 



Steak," is unquestionably the best 
for broiling. The next in order is the 
sirloin, where there are always choice 
cuts, but the entire sirloin is not 
profitable for broiling and the coarse 
ends may be used in making stews, 
gumbos, etc. The rib steak is very- 
nutritious, as also the round, but the 
Creoles never broil these. There is 
an art in broiling a beefsteak proper- 
ly, and the Creoles have certainly at- 
tained this in its perfection. The 
broiler in a well-regulated house- 
hold is always put on a furnace ot 
hot charcoals in preference to the 
open front of the stove. The coals 
not only render the meat free from 
any deleterious effects, should, by 
chance, the meat not be from a per- 
fectly healthy animal, but the broil- 
ing over the coals gives the meat a 
flavor one vainly seeks otherwise. 
Dredge the meat well witli salt and 
pepper and then brush lightly with 
butter. Place it on the hot gridiron 
and let it 'broil quickly for four min- 
utes; then turn on the other side fur 
four minutes longer. When done take 
off, place in a hot dish, butter nicely 
and sprinkle chopped parsley over, 
and the juice of a lemon, and serve 
immediately. The great secret of 
good broiling lies in the proper fire, 
the clean broiler, the right length, of 
time, the quality of the steak, which 
should never be tough, and lastly and 
not the least important of all, eating 
the steak directly after it comes from 
the coals. 



Smothered Beefsteak, 

Filet BraisS. 

Braising or smothering meat is a 
mode of cooking little understood by 
the Americans, but which has been 
brought by the Creoles" to a high 
state of perfection. By this pro- 
cess the meat is just covered and no 
more, with a little water, or with a 
strong broth made from animal stock 
or the juices of vegetables. The pot 
is covered- with a closely-fitting lid 
and is put on a slow flre and allowed 
to simmer slowly for two or three 
hours, just short of the boiling 
point. By this slow process of cook- 
ing, tough meats are rendered juicy, 
tender and very agreeable to the 
palate, while the covered pot enables 
the 'meat to retain all its flavor. 

The great secret in smothering 
meat is to let it cook very slowly, 
simmering, however, all the time, 
so that the heat may thoroughly 
penetrate and render tender and 
juicy the coarse fiber of the meat. 
When tender, put the beefsteak into 
a platter, cover with the onions and 
gravy, and you will have a delicious 
and delicately flavored dish. 



70 



Ueefsteak Smothered in Onions. 

Filet BraisS aux Ognons. 

3 Pounds of Round Steak. 

6 Onions, sliced fine. 1 Tablespooutul of Lavd. 

1 Tablespoontal of Tlour. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 

2 Sprigs each of Tli.vme and Bay Leaf. 

H Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Clove ot Garlic. 

1 Pint of Water. 

Pepper and Salt to Taste. 

Beat the round steak well with the 
rolling- pin or steak hammer; CTit 
off the outer skin and- press the mea-t 
back into shape. Place the tahle- 
spoonful of lard in the deep frying 
pan and let it melt. Then lay in the 
sliced onions, and over these the 
beefsteak, which has been well sea- 
soned with salt and pepper and 
dredgred with the flour. Cover close- 
ly. Let it simmer over a hot fire for 
a few minutes anl then turn the 
steak on the other side. After three 
rrinutes, add two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, chopped parsley, thyme and 
bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Turn 
the steak, letting the flour brown 
well, and keep the pot closely cov- 
ered. When brown pour over one cup 
of water, or a pint, which will be 
sufBcient to cover the meat. Bring 
this to a brisk boil and set the pot 
back where it can simmer gently for 
about t^vo hours. 

Filets of beef may be smothered in 
the same manner, only these will re- 
quire no beating with the steak ham- 
mer. 

Ftlct of Beef Smolhered Witli 
mushroom^ or Truffles. 

Filet de Boeuf Brais6 aux Champign- 
ons, ou aux Truffes. 
1 Filet of Beef. 
1 Can of Mushrooms or % Can of Trufflea. 
G Onions, sliced fine. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 
2 Sprigs each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 
1 Clove of Garlic. 
1 Pint of Hot Water. 
Salt,' Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Smother the beef, using a filet for 
this delicious dish according to the 
recipe given for Smothered Beefsteak. 
After it has cooked about a half hour 
add one can of mushrooms and let 
it continue to simmer gently for an 
hour and a half longer. When ready 
to serve, add, if possible, a gill or a 
small wineglass of Sherry or White 
Wine; boil ten minutes longer. Put 
the filet in a dish, place the mush- 
rooms over and around as a garnish, 
pour over the sauce and serve. 

If truffles are. used instead ot the 
mushrooms, add one-halt can and 
proceed in exactly the same manner 
as when using the mushrooms. 



Filet of Beef "W'ltli Tomatoes. 

Filet de Boeut BraisS aux Tomates. 

1. Filet of Beef. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

C Onions, sliced fine. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 
2 Sprigs each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 
3 Sprigs of Parsley. 
% Can of Tomatoes or G Large Fresh Ones. 
1 Pint of Hot Water. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Smother the filet in exactly the 
same manner as already described. 
When cooked for about a halt hour, 
add one-half can of tomatoes and 
their Juice, or six large fresh toma- 
toes sliced in their juice. Let the 
m^ixture simm.er for an hour and a 
half longer, season well and serve, 
pouring the gravy over the filet. 

Filet of Beef Wltli Stuffed Tomatoes. 

Filet BraisS aux Tomates Farcies. 

1 Filet of Be6f. 

1 Dozen Uniform-Sized Tomatoes. 

1 Cup of Mushrooms. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

% Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

Smother the filet according to the 
directions given above, adding two 
chopped tomatoes to the sauce. Take 
the tomatoes an-d cut off the stem 
end, scoop out the soft inside, being 
careful to retain the skins in proper 
shape. Then take a half cup of 
mushrooms, one-half cup ot stale 
bread crumbs, whi.ch have been wet 
and squeezed, one clove ot garlic, 
chopped very fine, and one grated on- 
ion, a sprig ot chopped parsley. Chop 
the mushrooms fine, place a table- 
spoonful ot butter into a trying pan, 
and, when melted, add the bread 
crumbs which have been seasoned 
with salt and pepper and Cayenne, 
and mixed thoroughly Tvith the 
chopped onion or garlic and the par- 
sley. When these begin to fry, add 
the chopped mushrooms, stirring 
constantly for about five or eight 
minutes. Serve with Stuffed Toma- 
toes (see recipe.) 

Beef a la Mode. 

Daube. 

5 Pounds of the Uump or thft Round of the 

Beef. 

44 Pound of Salt Fat. 

Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Clove ot Garlic. 

1 Glass of Sherry, Madeira or Claret (It 

Desired.) 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

2 Bay Leaves. 

Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. 

Cut the tat ot the salt meat into 
thin shreds. Chop the onion and bay 
leaf very fine, as also the garlic, 
thyme and cloves. Rub the shreds 
well with s^lt and pepper. Take 
the rump of beef and lard thickly by 



making- incisions about tliree or four 
inches in lengtli and inserting the 
pieces of salt fat and spices, onion 
and tliyme and garlic, mixed thpr- 
ougiily. Take two large onions and 
cut into quarters and put in a sauce- 
pan with one tablespoonful of lard. 
Let the slices brown and then lay 
on top the rump of beef, well lardeJ. 
Cover closely and let it simmer very 
slowly till well browned. Then add 
the chopped bay leaf and parsley. 
When brown add five carrots cut into 
squares of an inch, and two turnips, 
cut in the same manner, and two 
large onions, chopped fine. Let the 
whole brown, keeping well covered, 
and cooking slowly over a slow but- 
regular Are. Be always careful to 
keep the cover very tight on the pot. 
When it has simmered about ten 
minutes, turn the daube on the other- 
side, cover closely and let it sim- 
mer ten minutes more. Then cover 
with sufficient boiling water to cover 
the daube; or, better still, if yoj 
have it, use instead of the water, 
boiling "consommS" or "pot-au-teu," 
and, if possible, a glass of Sherry 
or Madeira wine; or, if you have 
neither of these, which are always to 
be preferred in cooking meats, a 
glass of good Claret. Season ac- 
cording to taste with salt, Cayenne 
and black pepper. Cover -the pot 
tight and set it back on the stove, 
letting it smother slowly for about 
three hours, or until tender. Serve 
hot or cold. 

Cold Daabe & la Creole. 

Daube Froide a. la CrSole. 

This is one of the most excellent 
dishes made by the Creoles, and is 
always a great standby for luncheons 
in winter. Take 

3 Pounds of the Rump or Rouud of the Beef. 
2 Pounds of Veal Kurap. 

2 Pips' Feet. Vi Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 

5 Large Ouious. 2 Turnips. 

5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Glass of Sherry. 

3 Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll 
well in Cayenne and black pepper. 
Chop finely several sprigs of thyme 
and three bay leaves, one clove of 
garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and 
mash well three cloves and six all- 
spice. Roll the strips of salt meat, 
which must be about three inches in 
length and one-half inch thick, in 
this. Make incision into the rump of 
meat and force in the strips of fat 
meat and the spices. Then rub the 
whole well with salt and pepper, 
judging according to taste, and pro- 
ceed to cook according to the re- 
cipe for Beef a. la Mode. Let the 
Daube cook about four hours when 
you intend to serve it cold. 



In the meantime, in another pot, 
place a veal steak of about two 
pounds, and two ' pigs' feet. Sea- 
son well with salt and pepper and 
Cayenne, and cover well with four 
quarts of water, and let them boil. 
Add one bay leaf, one sprig of 
thyme, one-half clove of garlic and 
one onion, all minced very fine, ana 
two cloves mashed into almost a 
jelly, and one glass of Sherry or Ma- 
deira wine. Let these boil well with 
the veal and pigs' feet. Then, when 
the veal and pigs' feet are cooked 
very tender, take them out of the 
pot and mince the meat of each very 
fine; return to the sauce, and again 
season highly, according to taste, 
for the flavor depends upon the 
piquant seasoning. After the daube. 
has cooked four or five hours, take 
off the stove and pour over the sauce 
and set all in a cool place. Serve 
the next day — cold, cutting into thin 
slices. It will all have formed a 
jelly that is most delicious and appe- 
tizing. 

Daube Froide a la Crfiole has only 
to be tried once to be repeated. It is 
a standing dish for luncheon in every 
Creole home during the winter, for 
it is never essayed in summer, owing 
to the heated weather that would 
prevent the jellying of the beef. Even 
when put in an ice box it is not the 
same as when made in winter. It 
is a dish that may be served with 
little cost to the most fastidious. 

Beef Marine. 

Eoeuf Maring. 

4 Pounds of Beef, from the Round or Shoulder. 

4 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

3 Bay Leaves. 1 Onion. 1 Lemon. 

1 Taljlespoonful of Vinegar. 

% Teaspoonful eacli of Ground Cloves, 

Mace and Allspice. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

The "brisket" of the -beef is ex- 
cellent for this, as also the "breast 
plate." Mix the spices, salt and pep- 
per thoroughly and rub well into 
both sides of the beef. Chop the on- 
ions fine, and cover the meat with 
them. Then mix the oil and vinegar 
and the juice of one lemon, and pour 
this over the meat. Set it in tlie ice 
box, or a cool place, and let it stand 
overnight. Then put it into the 
stewpan, and be careful to retain all 
the juices of the spices. Set on the 
fire and let it simmer ten minutes, 
adding the bay leaves, chopped very 
fine. Then add a tablespoonful of 
flouf, rolled smoothly in a half tea- 
spoonful of butter or, lard, melted. 
Let this brown, and then half cover 
the meat with boiling water, using 
good judgment. Cover closely and 
set on the oven, letting the beef 
cook two hours, and turning once, 
so that both sides may be well pene- 
trated by the heat. Serve on a hot 



dish, pouring the gravy over. This 
is a very old-fashioned dish. 

FrIeA SZeat, 

La Viande Prite. 

Frying among the Creoles Is done 
in several ways. The first and the 
method most generally adopted in 
households is t,o put a tablespoonful 
of lard or an ounce, as the quantity 
of meat to cook may seem to require, 
into a frying pan. "When the lard 
has reached the boiling point lay in 
the meat and cook first on one side 
then on the other to a nice brown. 
The second method is that in use 
among the Creole chefs, restaura- 
teurs, and in the homes of the 
wealthier classes; the meat is com- 
pletely immersed in the boiling lard 
as in trying fish or doughnuts. The 
intense heat quickly closes up the 
pores of the meat, and a brcn^n crust 
is formed; the heat of the lard 
should be such that a piece of bread 
dropped into it becomes brown in- 
stantly. The lard should never be 
smoking. This ruins the meat and 
gives a burnt fiavor. As soon as it 
begins to smoke remove the frying 
pan to the side of the stove, but still 
keep it at the boiling point. The 
half-frying method mentioned above 
is, however, the one most generally 
in use, and if followed properly ex- 
cellent results are obtained; indeed, 
many Creole chefs prefer it. There 
is another method that is very gene- 
rally used, and which'imparts a flavor 
similar to that of broiled meat. This 
is to lay the meat in a thick-bottomed 
frying pan with a tablespoonful of 
butter. Brown the meat quickly first 
on one side and then on the other; 
lay in a hot platter and season as you 
would broiled meat. 

In large families where there is a 
great deal of cooking required, the 
economical housewife will carefully 
save all the drippings and the fat 
remnants of beef, mutton and pork. 
She will occasionally get a pound or 
two of suet from the market. These 
drippings or skimmings may be clar- 
ified by boiling them in hot water 
about twice a week. When the fat 
is thoroughly melted, strain it with 
the water and set aside to cool. After 
a while the hard fat that has been 
formed on top of the water may be 
lifted out just as you would a cake 
of anything; then scrape off all the 
dark particles from the bottom and 
melt the fat over again. While it 
is still very hot strain it into _ a 
clean stone jar or tin pail and it "is 
ready for use in cooking. Refined 
cotton seed oil and butter oil are 
now being adopted by many profes- 
sional cooks and in households for 
culinary purposes. Olive oil has al- • 
ways been in use for this purpose 
among the Creoles, and is held as 
a very delicate medium for frying. 



But many prefer the beef fat or suet 
for frying, considering it both whole- 
some and digestible, and more deli- 
cate than olive oil or the fat of pork. 
But the careful housekeeper will al- 
ways preserve all odds and ends of 
fat of beef, mutton or pork, and the 
drippings after frying anything. Set 
this aside until the fat settles and 
cools, then pour oft carefully so as to 
clear from the sediment that always 
settles at the bottom and clarify as 
above. 

Fried Meat. 
Grillade. 

Our "Grillades, " or Pried Meat k 
la CrSole are famous, relishable and 
most digestible dishes, no matter 
what scientists may say about the 
non-advisability of eating fried meat. 
The many octogenarians who walk 
our streets, and who have been prac- 
tically raised on "Grillades," for it 
is a daily dish among the Creoles, 
are the best refutation of the outcry 
that is made in the North and West 
against fried meat. The great truth 
is that the Creoles know how to fry 
meat. The round of the meat is al- 
v.-ays" selected for Grillades, and one 
steak will serve six persons. The 
steak is cut into pieces of about six 
or eight squares and each piece is 
callea a "grillade." Season well with 
salt and pepper, rubbing these into 
the meat thoroughly and letting it 
soak well into the fibres. Have ready 
a hot pan, and place within a table- 
spoonful of lard, and, when hot, a 
sliced onion and one clove of garlic, 
cliopped very fine. Let this brown, 
and then add one chopped tomato. 
Place the Grillades in this, letting 
them soak thoroughly. Cover with a 
tight cover, and set back, letting 
them fry slowly, so as to absorb all 
the lard and juices. Serve on a hot 
dish, when brown, -with garnishes of 
parsley. This is the recipe for mak- 
ing Grillades without gravy. Some 
aUo fry simply in the boiling lard, 
using only a half tablespoonful, and 
letting it soak and absorb thorough- 
ly after being well seasoned. This 
is a m,-.tter of taste. 

Grillades are a favorite dish among 
the poorer classes of Creoles, espe- 
cially, being served not only for 
breakfast, but also at dinner, in the , 
latter instance with gravy and a dish 
of red beans and boiled rice. 

Grillades Witli Gravy. 

Grillades a. la Sauce. 

1 Rouua Steak. 

1 Tomato. 1 Large Onion. 

Salt and Pepper. 

Select a nice round steak and beat 
well. Cut into grillades of about 
four inches square and season highly 
with salt and pepper and Cayenne. 
Put a tablespoonful of lard into the 



79 



trying pan, and when it heats, add a 
chopped^ onion-; one' clave ol ga-rlio; 
and as these brown, add one table- 
spoonful of flour, making a Brown 
Roux. (See recipe under chapter 
"Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") Then 
add two tomatoes, sliced, with their 
juices, and as this browns lay the 
grillades upon it. Cover closely, and 
as, it browns on one side, turn on the 
other. Then add a half tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar and a cup of water. 
Stir well and set back on the stove 
and let it simmer slowly for about 
a half hour. This is very nice 
served with hominy at breakfast, or 
with red or white beans and boiled 
rice at dinner. 

Again, the Grillades k la Sauce 
are made by frying the grillades, 
after seasoning well, simply in half 
a tablespoonful of boiling lard. The 
lard must always be boiling, so that 
the meat juices may at once coagu- 
late. After they are browned nicely 
on both sides, take the grillades out 
of the frying pan and set in a hot, 
dish over a pot of boiling water and 
cover. Have an onion chopped fine, 
■ put half a tablespoonful of 
lard into the frying pan, stirring 
well to detach all particles of meat 
that may have adhered. Then add 
a chopped onion and brown, and a 
tablespoonful of flour or Glace (see 
recipe under chapter "Sauces for 
Meats, Pish, etc.") and let this brown. 
Pour in a tablespoonful of vinegar 
and a cup of water, season well with 
salt, pepper and Cayenne, and let it 
boil till it reaches a right consist- 
ency, which will be in about ten 
minutes. Pour over the grillades, 
and serve. 

Grillades Breaded. 

Grillades PanSes. 

1 Round of Veal. , 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
1 Beaten Egg. Vi Cup of Bread Crumbs. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. 

The round of the veal is always 
used for this. Cut the veal into 
squares of about four inches; season 
well with salt, pepper and Cayenne. 
Beat an egg well and take each gril- 
lade and soak it well in the egg, and 
then roll in bread crumbs grated. 
Have ready a pan of boiling grease, 
sufficient for the grillades to swim 
in it; fry to a nice brown and serve 
very hot. 

Lieft-Over Meat, 

Left-over meat may be utilized in 
many delightful ways, such as "Bou- 
lettes,"' "Boulards," "Croquettes," 
"Rissoles," "iVEeat Soufllfi" and va- 
rious forms of Hash. The following 
are the forms of preparation in use 
among the Creoles: 



Meat Balls. 

Boulettes. 

1 Pound of Raw or Left-Over Meat. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Onion. 

Tlie Juice of a Lemon. 
Salt, Pepper and Caj-enne to Taste. 

Take one pound of steak from the 
upper round and mince and chop very 
fine. Add to it one tablespoonful of 
lemon juice, one onion (well grated), 
one tablespoonful of melted butter, 
and mixed salt, black pepper and 
Cayenne, seasoning highly; mix all 
thoroughly. Porm the meat into 
balls, using about two tablespoon- 
fuls for each, which will allow six 
or eight balls or boulettes. Have 
ready a deep frying pan of lard, suf- 
ficient for the boulettes to swim and 
fry to a nice brown. Take out and 
drain of all grease, place on a hot 
platter and garnish with fried pars- 
ley, and serve very hot. 

The same directions may be used 
in making croquettes of meat, only 
the latter are formed into cylindrical 
shapes. If fried in butter, the bou- 
lettes or croquettes are very deli- 
cious, but they are nice either way if 
well seasoned, for tlieir success de- 
pends upon tills. 

Itleat Balls. 

Boulards. 

Seieral Slices of Meat (Raw or Cold Coolsed). 

1 Tomato. 1 Onion. i Carrot. 

3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

1 Stalli of Celery. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. * 

% Cup of Cracker Crumbs. A Pinch of Ginger. 

Ml Cup of Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Select slices of beef cut very thin 
from the round of the cross rib. Take 
one tomato, one onion, one carrot, a 
stalk of celery, several sprigs of par- 
sley, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, 
three hard-boiled eggs, and chop very 
fine. Mix this with one tablespoonful 
of butter, a half cup of cracker 
crumbs and a pinch of ginger. Salt 
and pepper to taste. Take each slice 
of meat, and make a roll of it, folding 
the dressing within and folding over 
the edges that it may be retained. 
Tie each with thin twine. Have boil- 
ing lard or suet on the Are, drop in 
the' boulards rolled in bread crumbs, 
set them back on the stove, cover 
well, and let them simmer gently for 
about two hours, adding a half cup 
of water to prevent scorching. Keep 
the pot covered. After two hours, 
drain the boulards well by laying 
them on heated brown paper; place 
them in a hot dish, garnish it with 
sliced hard-boiled eggs, parsley and 
olives, and serve. Bach boulard 
should be about the size of an, egg. 



80 



L,eft-Over Meat. 

Rissoles. 
i Ounces of Cold Hoast Beef or Veal, or 

Left-Over Meat of any Kind. 

2 Ounces of Stale Broad. Wet. and Squeezed 

Thoroughly. 

^^ Teaspoonful of Minced Parsley. 

1^ Ounce of Flour. 

1V4 Tablespoonluls of Milk or Water. 

^ Teaspoonful Each of Salt and Black Pepper. 

A Dash or Cayenne. 

1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine, With Sprigs of 

Parsley and Thyme. 

Mince the meat finely ana season 
well. Mix the ingredients thoroughly 
with it, adding, if you have it, mince 1 
Chaurice or sausage meat, or a little 
cold ham minced. Form it into balls, 
using two tablespoonfuls for each 
ball. Brush lightly with milk, toss 
in a little flour, pat to get off all su- 
perfluous flour, and brown, nicely in 
boiling lard. Drain off all lard and 
serve on a platter, garnished with 
parsley sprigs. 

Meat Souillf. 

Souffle de Boeut. 

1 Cup of Cold Meat. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Batter. 

2 Tablespoonluls of Flour. 1 Cup of Cold Milk. 

2 £:ggs. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put two level tablespoonfuls of 
butter into a frying pan, and when 
it is hot add two ta-b,lesp6onfuls of 
flour, rubbing smoothly and letting 
it brown. Then add gradually one 
cup of cold milk. Stir this until it 
boils. Add one-half teaspoonful of 
salt; a little pepper and one cupful 
of chopped meat, or fowl, that has 
been left over. When' this comes to 
a boil, add the yolk of two beaten 
eggs. Let it cook a moment longer 
and set to cool. Then beat the whites 
of the eggs and when the meat mix- 
ture is cold, fold them in carefully. 
Turn this into a buttered dish anl 
bake in a moderate oven twenty min- 
utes. Serve as soon as removed 
from the flre. A little grated nut- 
meg is a great addition. 

Beefsteak Pie. 

Vol-du-Vent de Boeuf. 

1 Quart of Cold Cooked Meat. 

2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon. 

1 Tablcspoonful of Butter. % Dozen Potatoes. 
Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Make a nice pie crust. (See plain 
Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, 
and bake in the oven. Cut the meat 
very fine, into dice, and season well, 
rubbing with the minced thyme, par- 
sley, bay leaf, and salt and pepper. 
Stew the meat as in Ragout de Veau 
a, la Bourgeoise. Place in the pan. 
Dot the top with bits of butter, and 
place over all a layer of pie crust, 
decorating the edges nicelj-. Bake to 
a nice brown. Serve in the 



dish in which it was cooked, 
with any left-over sauce spread over 
the slices. 

Potted Beef. 

Terrine de Boeuf. 

2 Rounds of Beef. 

1 Slice of Suet (Gros de Boeuf). 

% Can Mushrooms. 

4 Yolks of Eggs. 1 Dozen Allspice. 4 Cloves. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. 

1 Glass of Brandy. 

Chop the slices of beef very fine 

with the suet, and season with the 

mashed spices, the herbs, minced very 

fine, and mix thoroughly with the 

beaten yolks of the eggs. Pour over 

all the brandy and mix. Line the 

bottom of the baking pan with strips 

of lean bacon and dot of beef on top 

with bits of butter. Bake for two 

hours in a quick oven. 

HASH. 

Hachis. 

1 Quart of Cold Meat. 1 Onion. 

1 Pint of Chopped Potatoes (Uncooked). 

2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Vt of a Clovi of Garlic. 

1 Tablespoonf ul of Butter . oi Lard. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Take the remains, of cold roast, 
stew, bouilli, steaks or fowl, and 
mince very fine. To every quart of 
m.eat allow one onion, a quarter of 
a clove of garlic, chopped fine, and 
one pint of choppe3 (uncooked) pota- 
toes, and two hard-boiled eg':js, 
choped fine. Mix all this with the 
minced meat, add salt, pepper and 
Cayenne to taste; put into a stew 
pan with a tablespoonful of butter 
or lard, and let it simmer gently. 
After ten minutes add a half pint 
of hot water. Lut it cook ten min- 
utes longer and serve. The egg may 
be omitted. 

Dry OT Baked Hcsb. 

Hachis Sec. 

1 Pint of Chopped Meat, Left-Over. 

% Pint of Water, or Left-Over Broti 

1 Pint of Cooked Chopped Tomatoes. 

1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 

1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of Parsley. 

Chop and mince the meat very fine. 

Chop the potatoes fine, or in square 

inch pieces.. Mince the parsley, bay 

leaf, onion and garlic fine; mix all 

together with the meat and potatoes 

and season highly with pepper and. 

Cayenne, salting to taste. Add the 

tablespoonful of butter and bake in 

a moderate oven for about one hour. 

HasU en Toast. 

Hachis sur Canap§s. 
I Quart of Cold Meat. 
1 Pint of Boiling Water or Milk 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of ilour. 
Salt and Tspper to Taste. 

Cut the left-over roast, bouilli or- 



81 



steak into small squares. To each 
\ Dint of these little squares allow one 
\tablespoonful of butter, one table- 
spoonful of flour and a half pint of 
toiling water. Put the butter into 
a\frying pan, and as it melts add the 
flour, being careful not to let it burn. 
When browned add the water, or, 
preferably, milk, and stir until it 
begins to boil. Then add the hashed 
and seasoned meat, and season again 
to taste. Set the hash on a moderate 
fire and let it simmer for fifteen 
minutes. 

In the meantime, toast slices of 
bread and butter them. Set them in 
a hot dish, spread each slice with 
the hash very thickly and pour the 
sauce over and serve. The hash may 
be baked and spread on the toast ana 
served with ^ sauce k I'EspagnoIe. 
(See recipe.) 

Corn Beef. 

Boeut au Mi-Sel. 

3 Pounds of Corned Beef. 

2 Carrots. 2 Turnips. 1 Stalk of Celery. 

2 Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

The best out for this is the lower 
round of the beef, which Is perfectly 
free from bone. Put the corn beef on 
to boil in a large pot of cold water. 
The pot should be well covered. When 
it begins boiling well, set it back 
to cook gently, and allow twenty- 
five minutes to each pound of beef. 
When within two hours of being 
cooked, add two carrots, two tur- 
nips, a stalk of celery, two onions, 
one clove of garlic, chopped fine, and 
let these boil with the beef. Serve 
with the vegetables ranged whole 
around the dish. Corn beef is also 
served with cabbage, but never boil 
the cabbage in the beef as both w^ill 
become indigestible. It should be 
as tender as a spring chicken when 
done. 

Corn Beef Hash. 

Ha^jhis de Boeuf au Mi-Sel. 

1 Pint of Corn Beet. Cooked, and 1 Pint of 

Left-Over Potatoes. 

1 Grated Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1" Cup of Broth or Water. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Mix the meat thoroughly after min- 
cing fine together with the chopped 
potatoes. Grate the onion and a 
half clove of garlic if desired, and 
chop the herbs fine and mix thor- 
oughly with the beef, seasoning high- 
ly. Put the butter into the frying 
pan, add the meat and the broth or 
■water ,and stir constantly till it 
toils. Spread, after it has cooked 
for about twenty minutes on slices 
of buttered toast. Pour over the 
gravy and garnish with sprigs of 
parsley and sliced lemon. 



Breaded On. Tail.-*. 

Queues de Boeuf PanScs. 

■ 2 Ox Tails. 
1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 
3 Sprigs of Chopped Parsley. 
3 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Ess. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Tasto. 
Wash the tails and out them at 
the Joints; then cut again, into Uvo 
pieces of about four inches in length. 
Have a pot of boiling' water; season 
this well v/ith chopped parsley, 
thyme, bay leaf, and salt and pepper 
and Cayenne to taste. Boil the ox 
tails til tender; when done, remove 
from the fire and let them cool in 
the water in which they were boiled. 
Beat an egg well, roll tlie bits of 
tail in the egg, and then roll in 
grated bread crumbs. Drop into a 
pot of boiling grease and fry to a 
golden brown. Take out and drain 
and serve with a Sauce a. la Tartare, 
Ravigotte, Tomato, or any sauce. 
(See recipe.) 

Ox Tails & la Bonrgeolse. 

Queue de- Boeuf a. la Bourgeoise. 

2 Ox Tails. 

2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Turnip. 

% Can of Green Peas. 

^4 Inch of Ham. -1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Sprisa of Thyme. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

] Pint of Consomme or Boiling Water, ' 

1 Glass of Sherry Wine or Water. 

Cut tlie ox tails into pieces of 
three or four inches in length. Chop- 
two onions fine, and put the whole- 
into a saucepan with a tablespoonful 
tif butter. Let them brown a little- 
an'd add two large carrots, cut intO' 
dice, and one turnip cut the same- 
way. Brown these with the ox tails. 
Add one-half inch of ham, well 
chopped and let it brown, and then 
add two sprigs of thyme and one 
bay leaf and one clove of garlic, 
chopped very fine. Let these ingred- 
ients all brown about two minutes 
over a hot fire. Then add one glass 
of Sherry wine or water. Let all 
brown t"wo minutes longer, and add 
one pint of consommS or boiling wa- 
ter. Season again to taste, and add 
a half can of green peas. Let all 
boil until the ox tails are tender to 
the touch, and serve hot. 

Broiled KidiEcys. 

Brochettes de Rognons. 

3 Kidneys. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Lemon Juice. Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The kidneys must, first of all, be 
perfectly fresh. Wash them well 
and slice them; cut into thin pieces 
of about three inches long and two 
inches wide. Run a wooden or sil- 
ver skewer through to hold them to- 



82 



gether, and season well with salt 
and pepper. Brush with a little but- 
ter, and put on a double broiler and 
broil for about five minutes, turning 
over the broiler to alow each side 
to cook. Place on a platter and pour 
over melted butter and chopped par- 
sley and lemon juice, and serve hot, 
as you would broiled steak. 

SteTved Kidneys. 

( Rognons Sautfis a. la Crgole. 

i 3 Kidneys. 1 Cup of Water. 

% Spoon of Butter. 
l_^ % Glass of White Wine. 

1 Teaspoonful of Slierry Wine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Sprig Each of Chopped Parsley, Thyme and 

Bay Leaf, Very Fine. 

Select perfectly fresh kidneys; 
wash them well, and then slice very 
thin. Season well with salt and pep- 
per. Put one and a half tablespoon- 
fuls of butter into the saucepan; 
when melted and very hot, add the 
kidneys and chopped herbs, being 
very careful to stir constantly and 
very fast, to prevent burning. Add 
a half glass of White Wine, if pos- 
sible, and one cup of water or con- 
sommfi. Let it boil up once, and 
the kidneys are ready to be served. 
Kidneys are like eggs — they do not 
require long to cook, and the more 
they are cooked the harder they be- 
come. Five minutes should be suf- 
ficient to cook them well, and at 
no time should they be allowed fo 
boil. By adding champagne, instead 
of white wine, you will have Rognons 
Saute au Champagne. 

Broiled Liver. 

Brochettes de Foie. 
1 Pound of Beef's Liver. 
Tablespoonful of Melted Butter, 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Chopned Parsley to Garnish. 
Wash and slice the liver into thin 
pieces of about three inches in length 
and one-quarter inch in thickness. 
Run a skewer through to prevent 
from curling up. Season well with 
salt and pepper, brush lightly with 
butter, and place on a double broiler, 
stringing on the skewer ',/ith alter- 
nate slices of bacon. Broil as you 
would a tenderloin steak for about 
five minutes, and serve with a sauce 
of melted butter and chopped par- 
sley poured over. 

Fried Liver a la Lyonalse. 

Foie Sautfies a. la Lyonnaise. 

1 Pound of LlTer of the Beef. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Large Onions. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Slice the onions nicely. Put one 
tablespoonful of butter into the frying 
pan and add the onions. When brown, 
take the liver which you have cut into 
slices of about three inches in length 



and one half inch in thickness, and 
season well with salt and pepper, 
and lay it over the onions. Stir 
well. Cover and let it fry for about 
three minutes, and then turn over 
and let it cook three minutes more. 
Pour a teaspoonful of vinegar on top 
and again season to taste. Let it 
simmer three or four minutes long- 
er and serve hot. Liver does not re- 
quire long to cook. 

Jellied Tongue. 

Langue de Boeuf en Gen^e. 

1 Beef Tongue. 2 Calf's Feet. 

4 Pints of Strong Consomme. 

1 Glass of Sherry Wine. 

Spices. 

Parboil the tongue and two calf's 

feet. Then take out of tile hot water 

and skin and clean the tongue well, 

and take the bones out of the calf's 

feet. Mince t"wo onions very fine, 

and fry them in a tablespoonful of 

butter. Let them brown, and lay on 

these the well-seasoned tongue and 

calf's feet. Let them simmer ten 

minutes, and then add one pint of 

consommfi, and Ave minutes after, 

one glass of white wine. Let these 

smother, keeping well covered, for 

an hour and a half. Then take the 

tongue out, and let the calf's feet 

cook and reduce a half hour longer. 

After this add the tongue for two 

minutes longer. Put all into a bowl 

or dish, and let it cool. You will 

have a delicious jelly. 

Smothered Tongne. 

Langue de Boeuf BraisSe. 

1 Fresh Tongue of Beei. 

1 Pint of Liquor in Which the Tongue Was 

Boiled. 

2 Onions, Minced Very Fine. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 2 Cloves. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Glass of White Wine (if Desired). 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Parboil the tongue for about ten 
minutes. Then skin and clean 'well. 
Chop an onion very fine, and brown 
this in a tablespoonful of butter. 
When brown, add the tongue, which 
you will have arranged by fastening 
the thick part to . the tip with a 
skewer, as for roast beef. Let it 
cook, smothering slowly, for fifteen 
minutes, and then add another onion 
sliced nicely. Let this brown, and 
add one square inch of ham, well 
chopped, two carrots sliced, and a 
bay leaf, and two sprigs of thyme, 
minced fine. Brown again, and add 
a pint of broth. Season well, and 
add a glass of white wine, and then 
let it smother for one hour and a 
half longer, turning every quarter, 
so that every part may cook thor- 
oughly. Serve with the sauce in 
which it was cooked, or with a Sauce 
Piquante. (See recipe.) 



CHAPTER XIII. 



VEAL. 



Du Veau. 



The loin, filet, shoulder and breast 
ot the veal are used for roasting. 
Chops are cut from the loin, and the 
leg is used for filets and cutlets. The 
filet of veal is quite different from 
the filet of beef, and does not, in 
any manner, correspond to the lat- 
ter, being a solid piece cut from the 
leg-s of the young calf. The knuckle 
is the lower part of the leg after 
the cutlets are taken off, and, with 
the neck, is used extensively for 
making stews, soups and veal pies. 
Indeed, as far as stews are concerned, 
the Creoles never make a "beef stew" 
or very rarely, the meat of beef be- 
ing considered too tough. Never buy 
veal that is very young, for young 
meats, as a rule, are not nutritious; 
but properly cooked, as the Creoles 
know how, they need never be un- 
wholesome or indigestible. A calf 
should never be killed until It is at 
least two months old, and then the 
meat has a pinkish tinge, and is 
firm and the bones are hard. Calf 
that has been killed too young may 
be known by the bluish tinge and. 
the soft, flabby flesh, and small, ten- 
der bones. 

The Creole cooks always pound the 
veal almost to a pulp. This renders 
it very tender and digestible. Veal 
must alw^ays be w^ell cooked, and 
cooked very slowly, else it will be 
hard, tough and unfit for food. 

Veal furnishes an almost endless 
variety of delightful dishes. The fol- 
lowing are those most important in 
use in Creole homes: 

Roast Loin of Veal. 

Longe de Veau Rotie. 

4 Pounds of Veal. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Sprigs of Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Gar- 
nish. 

Trim and cut the veal nicely of 
the heavier portion of the fat, leav- 
ing enough, however, to render it 
sweet and juicy. If freshly cut, and 
not handled too much by the butcher, 
merely wipe the loin with a damp 
towel. Then dredge it thickly with 
salt and pepper, and separate the ar- 
ticulations or joints, that the meat 
may cook thoroughly. Rub well 
with a tablespoonful of butter or 
lard, and place in a very quick oven 
for about fifteen minutes. Then 



raise the damper of the stove and 
cover the veal with a piece of brown 
buttered paper and let it cook slow- 
ly, allowing at least twemty minutes 
to each pound of veal. Keep the 
oven at a steady, regular heat. About 
twenty minutes before serving take 
off the buttered paper and let the 
roast brown nicely, augmenting the 
fire a little. Take out, place on a 
hot dish, garnish nicely with sprigs 
of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve 
with its own gravy. The practice of 
making a gravy with fiour for roast 
beef and rest veal cannot be too se- 
verely condemned. Meat is always 
best when served in its own juice, if 
roasted or broiled. 

Roast Veal With Pine Herbs. 

Carr§ de Veau Roti aux Fines Heroes. 

A 4-Pound Filet of Veal. 

1 Cup of Broth or Water. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Onion. 3 Bay Leaves. 

2 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

3 Sprigs of Thyme. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

^ Teaspoonful Each of Oround Cloves, Mace 

and Allspice. 

Have the butcher cut the filet of 
veal square, wipe with a damp towel 
and then take one tablespoonful of 
lard and dredge the roast nicely. 
Season well with salt and Cayenne; 
mince tlie onion, bay leaf, marjoram, 
parsley and thyme, and mix vhese 
with the ground spices; add the juice 
of a lemon, and pour all over the 
meat. Place in a quick oven for 
about fifteen minutes. After this, 
lessen the heat, place on top of the 
veal a buttered piece of brown pa- 
per, and let it roast slowly, allowing 
twenty minutes for each pound of 
veal. When almost done, take off 
the paper and let the roast brown 
nicely for twenty minutes longer. 
Then take the roast out of the gravy 
and place in a hot dish in the oven. 
Take the gravy, stir well, mixing 
all the herbs that have run out of 
the beef. Add one cup of b'roth or 
water and the juice of one lemon, 
and mix this thoroughly. Grate 
some bread crumbs, beat well in one 
egg, and pour this over the veal, let 
it brown nicely and serve with the 
sauce. 



84 



Filet of Veal With Mushrooms or 
TraMeH. 

Filet de Veau aux Champignons ou 
aux Truffes. 

1 Filet ot Veal. 

H Can of Mushrooms or Truffles. 

1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

4 Cloves (It desired). 

1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Glace (see recipe). 

1 Glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine (or water). 

Salt and Pepper to Taste, 

Proceed in exactly the same man- 
ner as for Filet of Beef Larded, with 
Mushrooms or Truffles, only do not 
lard the veal. Allow the veal to 
cook much longer, for it must be 
well done, twenty minutes to ths 
pound being a good guide always in 
roasting veal. (See recipe for Filet 
of Beef Larded, with Mushrooms or 
Truffles.) 

Stuffed Roast Shoulder or Breast of 
Veal. 

Epaule ou Poitrine de Veau Parcie. 
1 Shoulder of Veal. ^4 Pound of Ham. 

1 Herb Bouquet. 
1 Hard-Bolled Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Spoon of Flour. 
(If the shoulder of the veal is used, have 
the butcher remove the bone.) 

When reaily to cook, wipe ■well 
with a damp towel, and then dredge 
with salt and pepper, seasoning high- 
ly. Make a dressing by taking one 
cup of stale bread, wet and squeezed, 
one-quarter pound of sliced ham, 
or salt pork, preferably the ham, 
and chop very fine. Mix this with 
the bread and season highly with hot 
pepper, according to taste; 1 carrot, 
1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 hard-boiled 
egg, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 ot parsley, 
all minced very fine. Add one table- 
spoonful of butter, and place in a 
frying pan; let it fry for about ten 
minutes and then add, it you ha.ve 
it, a quarter ot a glass ot white wine, 
or two tablespoonfuls, and two ta- 
blespoonfuls of beef broth; stir well 
and cook for five minutes longer. 
Then stuff the shoulder well and 
skewer the filet to prevent the dress- 
ing from falling out in cooking. It 
is well to tie the veal at either end 
with a piece of twine. Take one ta- 
blespoonful of lard and dredge 
roast according to preceding recipes. 

If the breast of the veal is used, 
make long gashes between the ribs 
and fill with a dressing prepared as 
above, place in the baking pan and 
roast slowly, according to directions. 
When finished cooking, remove the 
shoulder or breast, and stir the gravy 
well, adding a cup of broth or v/a- 
ter and the Juice of one lemon and a 
teaspoonful of butter, seasoning to 
taste. Serve with the roast. Some 
like the addition of a teaspoonful 
of prepared mustard, but that is a 
matter of taste. 



Venl Cutlets Breaded. 

Cotelettes de Veau PanSes. 

6 Veal Cutlets. 

1 Egg. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. 

Sauce a la Alaltre d'Hotel. 

Have the cutlets cut thin. Season 
well with salt and pepper. Beat an 
egg well and roll the cutlets in the 
egg, then roll in bread crumbs. Drop 
in boiling lard and try to a nice 
golden brown. Take out, drain off 
tlie lard, place on a heated dish 
and serve with garnish of parsley 
and sliced lemon and a Sauce k la 
Maitre ; d'Hotel. (See recipe.) The 
addition ot a little lemon Juice adds 
to the fiavor when eating the cutlets. 

Veal Cutlets Breaded asd Broiled. 

Cotelettes de Veau Panfies et Grll- 

16es. 

6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg. 

1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 

Parsley. Sprigs. 

llelted Butter or Sauce a la Ravigotte. 

Have the cutlets as thin as pos- 
sible. Season well, after having beat 
with the rolling-pin, and roll in a 
well-beaten egg and then In bread 
crumbs. Pat lightly with the hands 
and brush with melted butter. Place 
on a double broiler and broil on a 
very slow fire till no blood exudes. 
Serve with drawn butter sauce 
poured over or a Sauce 9. la Ravi- 
gotte. (See recipe.) Garnish the 
dish nicely with parsley sprigs. 

Cutlets of Veal it la Milanaise. 

Cotelettes de Veau k la Milanaise. 

6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg. 

1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 

A Bed of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 

Tomato Sauce. 

Prepare as above, and serve the 

cutlets on a bed ot boiled macaroni 

or spaghetti, and pour over the 

whole a Tomato Sauce. 

Veal Cutlets en Fapillotes, 

Cotelettes de Veau en Papillotes. 

6 Veal Cutlets. 

A Half Pound of Pork Sausage Meat. 

% Can Muslrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, 

1 Clove Garlic. 
' Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Use for this young and tender 
veal cutlets, cut very thin. Fry the 
chops, after seasoning well in but- 
ter, very slowly, and, when cooked, 
take out ot the frying pan and put 
in a dish. Take a- tablespoonful ot 
butter and put in a trying pan. Add 
a half pound ot sausage meat and a 
halt can of mushrooms, chopped very 
fine. Mix well, and season with salt 
and pepper. Add a minced clove ot 
garlic, and let it all cook five min- 
utes. Take pieces ot white fools- 



85 



cap paper and cut in cone or pyra- 
midal shapes of the size of the out- 
lets. Fold the edges over the other 
very nicely, doubling the paper to 
form the half diamond or cone. Then 
oil the paper well with sweet oil. 
Take the stufHng of sausage meat 
and put a layer on one side of the 
fold of each cone. Lay the chop 
diagonally across this, so that the 
end reaches the tip of the cone, and 
spread over this another layer of 
the stuffing. Fold the paper over 
neatly around the edges, and -then 
- oil well again on the outside. Bake 
in an oven or lay on top of a grid- 
iron and broil until brown. This 
will be in about five minutes. They 
will need no gravy, the oil having 
slightly permeated, and the chops 
being kept delicate and juicy by the 
dressing. Serve hot in the papers 
or papillotes, the guests removing 
them at the table. This is a very 
dainty way of serving veal cutlets, 
and the only way of serving them 
in papillotes. 

Veal Cutlets Smothered & la CrSole. 

■ Cotelettes de Veau :6toufCfies ou 
Brais6es &. la Creole. 
6 Veal Cutlets. ' 
6 Onions, Sliced Fine. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 
Pepper and Salt to Taste. 
Cut off the outer skin of the cut- 
lets, and season well with salt and 
pepper. Dredge with flour. Place 
the tablespoonful of lard in 
a deep frying pan and let it melt. 
Then lacy in the sliced onions, and 
over' these lay the cutlets. Cover 
closely. Let them simmer over a 
hot fire for a few minutes and then 
turn the cutlets on the other side. 
After three minutes, add two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, chopped par- 
sley, thyme and bay leaf and a clove 
of garlic. Turn the veal, letting the 
flour brown well, and keep the pot 
closely covered. When brown, pour 
over one cup of water, or a, pint, 
which will be sufllcient to covep the 
meat. Bring this to a brisk boil 
and set the pot back, where it can 
simmer gently for about two hours. 
Serve with a nice garnish of parsley 
or radishes. 

Veal Daube a la Crgole. 

Daube Froide a la Creole. 

4 Pounds of Veal Rump. 

2 Pig's Feet. Vi Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 

5 Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 

5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 

1 Tatlespoonful of Lard. 

1 Glass of Slierry. 

3 Sprigs of Tliyme and Parsley. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll 

-well in Cayenne and black pepper. 

■Chop finely several sprigs of thyme 



and three bay leaves, one Clove of 
garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and 
mash well three cloves and six all- 
spice. Roll the strips of salt meat, 
which must be about three inches 
in length and one-half inch thick, 
. in this. Make incisions into the 
rump of meat and force in the strips 
of fat meat and the spices. Then 
rub the whole well with salt 
and pepper, judging according to 
taste, and proceed to cook according 
to the recipe for Beef a. la Mode. 
(See, recipe Beef S,' la Mode.) Let 
the daube cook about four hours 
when you intend to serve it cold. 

In the meantime, in another pot, 
place a veal steak of about two 
pounds and two pigs' feet. Season 
well with salt and pepper and Ca- 
yenne, and cover well with four 
quarts of water, and let them boil. 
Add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, 
one-half clove of garlic and one on- 
ion, all minced very fine, and two 
cloves mashed into almost a jelly, 
and one glass of Sherry or Madeira 
"Wine. Let these boil well with the 
veal and pigs' feet. Then, when the 
veal and pigs' feet are cooked very 
tender, take them out of the pot and 
minc'e the meat of each very fine; 

■ return to the sauce, and again sea- 
son highly, according to taste, for 
the flavor depends upon the piquant 

■ seasoning. After the daube has 
' cooked four or five hours, take off 

the stove and pour over the sauce 
and set all in a cool place. Serve 
the next day — cold, cutting into thin 
slices. It will all have formed a 
jelly that is most delicious and ap- 
petizing; .. , J 

If the flank is used, have it boned 
by the butcher, removing the lit- 
tle flat bones and all the gristle. 
In this case, trim it evenly and make 
a forcemeat of sausage, 1 cup, grated - 
flne; bread crumbs, 1 cup, wet and 
squeezed; 1 clove of garlic or 1 
grated onion, all minced very fine; 
1 hard-boiled egg, 1 sprig of i:hyme 
and bay leaf, minced flne. Mix all 
thoroughly with the sausage meat 
and the bread; fry in a tablespoonful 
of butter for about five minutes; add 
a tablespoonful of Sherry, stir well; 
stuff the flank of veal, and then pro- 
ceed in exactly the same manner as 
above indicated. 

Fricanileau of Veal. 

Fricandeau de VeaUi 

A Rump of Veal of Two Pounds Weight. 

1 Pint of Broth. 

2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 

% Dozen Slices ot Bacon. 

% "Can ot Green Peas or Mushrooms. 
Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. 

For this take one whole piece of 
the rump of the veal, cut about two 
inches in thickness, and about the 
size of a large saucepan or frying 
pan in length and width. Lard the 



beef well with larding needles, and 
rub well with salt and pepper. Then 
slice two onions, two carrots, two 
sprigs of thyme and two bay leaves, 
and a half dozen slices of thinly- 
sliced fat bacon, two inches long and 
about the thickness of a dollar. 
Place the bacon in strips in the bot- 
tom of the saucepan, and lay over 
this a layer of the sliced carrots 
and onions. Put about a dozen lit- 
tle dots of lard over this at intervals, 
and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
Lay the veal on top of this, and then 
cover up with a layer of the sliced 
onions and carrots, and lay strips 
of bacon on top. Cut a piece of pa- 
per the size of the saucepan, and 
cover it up. Place in a good oven, 
and let it bake three-quarters of an 
hour longer, slowly. Watch care- 
fully. When done, take out the meat 
and place it in a dish. Take the 
sauce and add, if possible, one-half 
glass of white wine, and let it boil 
with the vegetables a moment. Then 
add one pint of broth or water, and 
let it cook well. Strain after it boils 
fifteen minutes. It will have become 
a very fine gravy. Add, if desired. 
a half can of mushrooms, or a half 
can of green peas, and let it boil for 
ten minutes longer. Then add the 
Pricandeau of Veal and let it warm 
well for about ten minutes and it 
is ready for the table. This is a 
most excellent family dish. 

Stewed Veal. 

Ragout de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. 

3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large Onions. 

2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water. 

% Can of Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. 

Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

The brisket of the veal or the neck 
is best for stews, preferably the 
brisket. Cut it into pieces of about 
1 1-2 inches square, put a tablespoon- 
ful of lard in the stew pot, and when 
hot throw in the veal, which has 
been well seasoned with salt and 
black pepper. Let it brown, and 
then add the onions and carrots, 
which have been chopped fine, 
and one clove of garlic, minced 
very fine. Let this brown, and 
then add one vablespoonful of 
flour, Silted well, and let this brown 
nicely; add two pints of boiling wa- 
ter and 1 can of tomatoes, and a 
bay leaf, chopped very fine, and salt 
and pepper again to taste, adding, 
if desired, a dash of Cayenne. Many 
of the Creoles add a teaspoo'nful of 
vinegar. Set the stew back on the 
stove and cover closely. Let it sim- 
mer slowly for an hour and a half, 
or until the meat Is perfectly tender. 
Then serye hot. 



Sten-ed Veal With Fotatoea. 

Ragout de Veau aux Pommes de 

Terre. 

1 Brislcet or Knnclsle of Veal. 

2 Small Potatoes. 2 Large Onions. 

2 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Floor. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme, Paralcy and Sweel 

Marjoram, 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Proceed in the same manner as for 
RagoQt de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. 
Just before adding the water, add 
the potatoes, which have been peeled 
and out into quarters or halves, ac- 
cording to size. Add the boiling wa- 
ter after they are in the stew about 
ten minutes, and set back, allowing 
it to simmer for an hour and a half, 
or until very tender. 

Stevred Veal With Mnshrooms. 

Ragoflt de Veaux aux Champignons. 

3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large Onions. 

2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water, 

1 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Flou.r 

1 Tablespffonful' of Lard. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. 

Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Cut the veal into pieces of about 

1 1-2 inches square. 

The brisket of the veal or the neck 
is best for stews, preferably tlie 
brisket. Cut it into pieces of about 
1 1-2 inches square, put a tablespoon- 
ful of lard "in the stewpot, ami, 
when hot, throw in the veal, whioli 
has been well seasoned with salt and 
black pepper. Let it brown, and then 
add the onions and carrots, whicli 
have been chopped fine, and 1 clove 
of garlic, minced very fine. Let this 
brown, and then add 1 tablespoonful 
of fiour, sifted well, and let this 
brown nicely; add 2 pints of boiling 
water and 1 can of mushrooms whole, 
and a bay leaf, chopped very fine, 
and salt and pepper again to taste, 
adding, if desired, a dash of Cayenne. 
Set the stew back on the stove and 
cover closely. Let it simmer slowly 
for an hour and a half, or until the 
meat is perfectly tender. Then serve 
hot. This is a very delightful dish. 

Cream of Veal, 

CrSme de Veau. 

3 Cups of Chopped Veal. 

1 Cup of Chopped Ham. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
% Cup of Cream Sauce. 

Utilize in this the left-over filet 
of veal. Chop very fine and add one 
cup of minced ham. Prepare a 
Cream Sauce (see recipe under 
"Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") i" 
the proportions to make just a halt 
cup. Season the chopped veal with 
this, add a dash of Cayenne and 
grated nutmeg, spread upon hot but- 



87 



tered toast, aini serve at breakfast. 
Chicken and mutton may be pre- 
pared in the same -way. 

Veal en Ratatoullle. 

Ratatouille de Veau k la Creole. 

i Pounds of Brisket of Veal. % Pouad of Ham 

2 Cloves of Gallic. 

% Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresb. 

4 Dozen Fresh Okra. 2 Large Onions. 

2 Sweet Potatoes. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. 

Cut the veal into pieces of about 
three inches in length and two in 
width. Cut the ham into dice shape, 
and the sweet potatoes, after peeling, 
into cubes of about one and a half 
inches. Add a half sweet pepper 
pod, if possible, being careful to ex- 
tract all the seeds. Season the veal 
highly. Put a tablespoonful of lard 
into the stew pot (butter is nicer, 
if it can be afforded), add the veal 
and let it brown nicely; then add 
the ham, the sweet potatoes and the 
pepper pod, and let them simmer 
gently for about fifteen minutes. 
In the meantime, prepare the fol- 
lowing sauce: Place a tablespoonful 
of butter into a saucepan, and when 
it melts add the chopped onion, and 
as they brown nicely, the minced 
herbs and garlic, and then the to- 
matoes sliced and chopped, in their 
own liquor. Let this stew for about 
fifteen minutes, and then add this 
to the stewing veal; mix thoroughly 
and set back on the stove, covering 
tightly, and let it simmer slowly and 
constantly, with a regular fire,, for 
about two hours. Then add the ok- 
ras, which have been tipped and 
sliced very thinly; let the mixture 
simmer for a half hour longer, and 
serve. This is an excellent family 
dish. 

Veal Patties or Veal Loaf. 

Pate de Veau ou Pain de Veau. 

3 Pounds of Veal Cutlets. 

3 Yolks of Eggs, beaten light. a Crackers. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

1 Pound of Lean Ham. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Stew the veal, and then powder the 
crackers very fine. Mince the cutlets, 
the herbs and the ham very fine. 
Season well with salt and pepper, 
and mix with the bread crumbs and 
beaten eggs. Add a clove of garlic 
to the taste, if desired; add juice of 1 
lemon. With the whole form nice 
litte oaves of pie, shape, smooth over 
the top with butter, brush with egg, 
beaten well, sprinkle with crumbs, 
and bake in a' moderate oven, placing 
a buttered paper over the pat6s. The 
loaf may be formed whole and cut in 
thin slices and serve cold. 



Blanquette of Veal. 

Blanquette de Veau. 

3 Pounds of Veal Brisket. 
2 Onions. 1 Carrot. % Can of Mushrooms, 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Yolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Va Gallon of Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
This is a very cheap and excellent 
dish and may be made with left-over 
meat. But the brisket is never ex- 
pensive, and one may as well have it 
with the fresh meat. Take a brisket 
of veal and cut into pieces of two 
square inches. Put in a stew pot 
and cover with a half gallon of wa- 
ter, and add salt and pepper and two 
onions and 'one carrot, chopped fine. 
Let it boil till very tender. When 
it reaches this stage, take the meat 
out of the saucepan, and keep tlie 
water in which it was boiled.' Take 
another saucepan and put a table- 
spoonful of butter in it, and as it 
melts add a tablespoonful of flour. 
Mix well, continuing to dissolve till 
it becomes a smooth cream; do not 
let it brown. Add one pint of the 
water in which the veal was boiled. 
Stir well, making it very light, and 
not thick. Add' one-half can of mush- 
rooms, and let the whole boil about 
fifteen minutes, so as- to be very- 
light. Then put in the veal, which 
is already cooked. Let it simmer for 
about fifteen minutes longer, and 
take off the fire and add the yolks 
of two eggs, well beaten, with two 
tablespoonfuls of the gravy and the 
juice of one lemon. Serve hot. This 
is the true CrSole Blanquette de 
Veau, and it is a dish within the 
reach of all. 

Jellied Veal. 

Noix de Veau 8. la Gel6e. 

The Filet or Part of Lower Shoulder Blade 

of Veal. 

6 Peppercorns. 

2 Calves' Feet. 1 Blade of Mace. 

2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots. 

1 Gill of French Vinegar. 

1 Dozen Cloves Mashed Fine. 

-1 Allspice Mashed Fine. 

3 Quarts of Beef Broth. 

Cut the veal into fine pieces, sea- 
son well, and put it in a kettle with 
the calves' feet, and season highly 
with pepper, Cayenne and salt to 
taste. Add three quarts of beef 
broth, or "pot-au-feu." Add the 
minced vegetables, herbs and the 
peppercorns, and let it boil gently 
until it forms a jelly, which will be 
'in about two and a half hours. Then 
take out the veal and calves' feet, 
and carefuly remove all the bones, 
if any, and place in a mold. Let 
the liquor in which it was boiled boil 
until it is reduced to about a quart, 
adding, in the meantime, the good 
vinegar. When reduced, pour over 



88 



the meat and set it in a cold place 
over night. When cold, turn out of 
the mold and garnish nicely with 
sliced lemon and parsley sprigs and 
serve in slices. 



Veal AVith Olives. 

Veau aux Olives. 

A Flank of Veal. 

1 Slice of Cold Boiled Ham. 

1 Grated Onion. 1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 

1 Lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Dozen Stoned Olives. 

This is a very old-fashioned Creole 
dish. Get a flank of veal and cut it 
into strips of about four inches in 
length and four in Vi'idth. Cut off 
sufficient to make a half cup, and 
chop this fine, with a slice of cold 
boiled ham. Make a mince meat, 
adding chopped herbs, according to 
taste, 1 grated onion, 1 hard- boiled 
egg, the juice of 1 lemon and a ta- 
blespoonful of butter, with a. half cup 
of bread crumbs. Take the strips of 
veal, stuff them nicely with this mix- 
ture and roll over the ends, tying 
to prevent the farcie from escaping. 
Place a tablespoonful of butter in a 
frying pan, and, when it heats, add 
the rolls, of veal. Let them fry for 
ten minutes, turning, and then add 
soup broth sufflcient to cover them. 
Cover ci.isely and set back on the 
stove, and let them simmer steadily 
but slowly for an hour longer; then 
place in a hot dish, pour the gravy 
over, seasoning highly; add about 
two dozen stoned olives, and pour 
over the rolls and serve. 

Veal Pot Pie. 

Vol-au-Vent de Veau. 

A Veal Brisket. 

2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon or Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Dozen Potatoes. 

Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

This is a famous dish among the 
Creoles with large families. For a 
family of six, get a veal brisket, and 
allow three parts of minced veal to 
one of ham. 

Make a nice pie crust. (See Plain 
Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, 
and bake in the oven. Cut the meat 
very fine, into, dice, and season high- 
ly, rubbing with the minced thyme, 
parsley, bay leaf, and salt and pep- 
per and Cayenne. Stew the meat as 
in RagoQt de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. 
Place in the pan. Dot the top with 
bits of butter, and place over all a 
layer of pie crust, decorating the 
edges nicely. Bake to a nice brown. 
Serve in the dish in which it was 

nnnlrftr? ^rifVn qt.-.. i .^** 



Veal Croquettes, 

Croquettes de Veau. 

3-4 ot a Pound of Cold (Cooled) Veal. 
1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

4' Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1. Onion. 1 Cup of Milk. 

1 TeaspoonMl ot Salt. 
Cayenne and Pepper to Taste. 

This is an excellent way of utiliz- 
ing left-over veal. Hemove all the 
tough fibers and nerves. Hash the 
veal w(;ll and season with the minced 
vegetables and sweet herbs, mixing 
all thoroughly. Then take a cup 
of the soft of the bread, wet it and 
squeeze, and soak in milk, in which 
yoil have beaten two eggs. Mix all 
this with the meat very thoroughly 
and season to taste. When well 
mixed, form the meat into cylindrical 
shapes and brush with a little but- 
ter. Then roll in a beaten egg and 
roll again in powdered bread crumbs. 
Pry in boiling lard and serve hot on 
a plate garnished with fried parsley. 

If made very carefully, it will be 
very difficult for anyone to discern 
the difference between a Chicken 
Croquette and a Veal Croquette. 

Calf's Head a la Poulette. 

Tete de Veau a, la Poulettei 

1 Gait's Head. Tolk of 1 Egg. 

1 Lemon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 

Sauce a la Poulette. 

Clean and prepare the calf's head 
as in the recipe given for "Calf's 
Head Soup." (See recipe.) Then 
boil it according to recipe. Cut one 
lemon fine and add to the boiling 
calf head, which, it must be remem- 
bered, is boiled simply in water, and 
salt and pepper. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of good vinegar and let it 
cook till done. This is either used 
to make a mock turtle soup or is 
served with a Sauce a, la Poulette. 
as follows: Make a Sauce a. la Poulette 
(See recipe.) Put the calf's head in 
the sauce and let it boil for a halt 
hour. Take the yolk of one egg and 
beat it as you would an omelet. Add 
to the calf's head and serve. This 
will give the sauce a fine golden 
color. 

Calf's head may also be served with 
a Sauce AUemande. (See recipe.) 

Calf's Head A la Tortne. 

Tete de Veau a, la Tortue. 

1 Calf's Head. 2 Large Onions. 

^ Can of Mushrooms. 1 Lemon. 

Thyme and Bay Leaf. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Wineglass of Sherry. 

1 Tablespoonful ot Butter. 

2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. 

Slice the onions and mince the 

garlic. Put the butter into a stew 

pot, and as it melts add the onions 



89 



Add one tablespoonful of flour, sifted 
well, and, as this becomes brown, 
add one pint of consommg or water 
if you have not the broth. Then add 
the chopped thyme and bay lefi-f and 
the peel of one lemon, cut very fine, 
and the juice. Let all this simmer 
tor about ten minutes and then cut 
up the calf's head and add it to the 
mixture. After fifteen minutes add 
a. half can of mushrooms, and, in a 
few minutes, one small glass of Sher- 
ry wine. Let it all cook about ten 
minutes, and then season well, ac- 
cording to taste. Let all cook about 
half an hour longer, and, when ready 
to serve, place the calf's head in the 
middle of the dish, pour the gravy 
over and range the mushrooms 
around. Garnish them with the piec- 
es of a flat omelet, which you have 
made from the two eggs and cut into 
diamond shapes, alternating with 
toast buttered and cut into diamond- 
shaped Croutons. 

Tliere are many other ways of 
serving calf's head, but these are the 
standing Creole methcds. It is well 
to repeat that a calf's head requires 
about three hours to boil. 

Calve's Brains Fried. 

Cervelles de Veau Marinade. 

Calve's Brains. 1 Onion. 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf- 

Gi'ated Bread Crumbs. 
Plunge the brains into cold water 
to disgorge them of all .blood and re- 
move the fine skin and blood that 
surrounds them. Then blanch with 
scalding water. In flve minutes Jaka 
them out of the hot water and put 
them into a saucepan and cover with 
cold water. Add a tiny onion, sliced 
fine; parsley and bay leaf, whole. 
Let them simmer gently for five min- 
tites. Then take from the fire and 
drain. When cold, cut into pieces 
of a square inch and dip in a batter 
or tomato sauce, and then in grated 
bread crumbs, patting gently. Drop 
into boiling lard and fry to a golden 
brown. Take out and drain of grease 
and serve on a bed of fried parsley. 
A garnish of boiled green peas is 
also very pretty and palatable. 

Calve's Brains, Brown Butter 
Sauce. 

Cervelles de Veau au Beurre Noir. 

Calve's uralns. 

1 Tatlespoonful of Butter. 

1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 

Sauce aux Beurre Noir. 

Prepare the brains as mentioned 

above by boiling, and then place in 

a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of 

butter. Cut up a tiny onion, and add 

also a sprig of thyme, bay leaf and 

parsley, alf minced very fine. Add 

to the butter, and then add the brains 

cut in slices a half inch thick. Sea- 



son again to taste. Fry for fivo 
minutes, and serve with a Sauce aux 
Beurre Noir. (See recipe.) 

Calf's lilver Pried. 

Foie de Veau Sautfi i la Lyonnaise. 

1 Pound of Liver 2 Onions. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter, 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Slice the liver very fine into pieces 

of about three inches in length and 

one in widtli. Season well with salt 

and pepper. Slice two onions very 

fine and take a tablespoonful of lard 

or butter and put into the frying pan. 

When it heats, add the onions and. as 

they brown, place on top the slices 

of liver. Let them brown on one 

side about two minutes and a half, 

and then turn on the other. Let 

this side brown two minutes and a 

half longer and serve with the onion 

sauce, to which add a teaspoonful of 

vinegar. 

Calve's lilver a la Bonrgeolse. 

Pole de Veau Sautfi k la Bourgeoise. 

1 Calf's Liver. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 

1 Turnip. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Pint of Broth or Water. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the liver and lard it well 
With n'feedles. Put a tablespoonful of 
lard of butter into the frying pan,, 
and when hot, add .immediately the 
onion, carrot and turnip, all sliced 
very fine, and then the flne herbs, 
hicely minced. Let these brown, and 
add the liver. Pour over this about 
two spoons of White Wine or one of 
Sherry. Add aljout a pint of con- 
somm§ or boiling water. Season 
highly, cover the saucepan well, set 
back on the fire, and let it simmer 
for about half an hour, and serve. 

Fried lilver and Bacon. 

Foie de Veau Frit au Petit Sal6. 

1 Pound of Calf's Liver. 
Vn Pound of Breakfast Bacou. 
% Teaspoonful of Salt. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
Black Pepper to Taste. 
Slice the liver into pieces of about 
three inches in length and one-quar- 
ter of an inch in thickness; slice the 
bacon very thin, having as many 
slices of the bacon as of the liver. 
Put the bacon in the frying pan and 
fry brown; then place it in a heated 
dish and set over a pot of boiling 
water and cover to keep warm. Dust 
the liver with flour, after having 
seasoned well with salt and pepper 
and fry it in the bacon fat. When it 
cooks about five minutes, ajlowing 
two minutes and a half to each side, 
take out and arrange on the same 
dish with the bacon in alternate 
slices. Garnish nicely with parsley 
and serve. 



90 



Calf's Feet, Plain. 

Pieds de Veau au Naturel. 

3 Calfs Feet. 

3 Quarts o£ Cold Water. 1 Gill of Vinegar. 

2 Tablespoonfula of Flour. 

1 Oniou. 1 Carrot. 

12 Wbole Pepper Corns. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. 

1 Herlt Bouquet. 

Split each ot the calf's feet in two. 
Then carefully remove the larger 
bones, and cut the meat into pieces 
of about one incli square. Soak well 
in fresh water for one hour. Then 
wash and drain thoroughly. Put two 
tablespoonfuls ot flour and three 
quarts of cold water into a saucepan; 
stir well, mixing thoroughly; place 
the feet in the mixture and add one 
onion (chopped fine), twelve whole 
peppers, one carrot cut into fine 
shreds; the herb bouquet and two 
tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the feet 
boil briskly for about one hour. Take 
from the fire and arain well. They 
are now ready to serve with any 
sauce that may be desired. 

Calf's Feet A la Foulette. 

Pieds de "Veau k la Poulette. 

Calf's Feet. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Sifted Flour. 

1 Pint of Water. 14 Can of Mushrooms. 

Yolk of 1 Egg. Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Boil the calf's feet; then take out 
the larger bones and cut in pieces of 
about an inch suare. Prepare a 
Sauce a. la Poulette by putting one 
tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- 
pan, and, as it melts, add two table- 
spoonfuls of sifted flour; add about 
one pint of the water in which the 
calf's feet have been boiled. Stir 
well and throw in the calf's feet, 
sait and pepper to taste,, and, if de- 
sired, about a quarter of a can of 
chopped mushrooms. Let it boil 
about five minutes, and then take 
off the stove and add the yolk of an 
egg (beaten well), the juice of one 
lemon, and serve. 

Calf's Feet, Tomato Sauce. 

Pieds de Veau, Sauce Tomate. 

3 Calf's Feet. 

A Sauce a la Tomate (1 Pint.) 

Prepare the feet as in the recipe 

"Calf's Feet, Plain," and pour over, 

when ready to serve, a Sauce a, la 

Tomate. (See recipe.) 

Calf's Feet, Planant Sauce. 

Pieds de Veau, Sauce Plquante. 

3 Calf's Feet. 

1 Pint or Sauce Plquante, 

Prepare the calf's feet as in recipe 

for "Calf's Feet, Plain," and add, 

when ready to serve, one pint of 

Sauce Piquajite. (See recine.l 



Calf's Feet, Sauce Reiuoulade. 

Pieds de Veau t la Sauce Remoulade. 

3 Calf's Feet. 

Sauce Remoulade, 1 Pint. 

Prepare the feet as in the recipe 
for Calf's Feet Plain, and pour over, 
when ready to serve, one pint of hot 
Sauce Remoulade. (See recipe.) 

Calf's Feet, Italian Sauce. 

Pieds de Veau 3. la Sauce Italienne. 

3 Calf's Feet. 

1 Pint of _Sauc« a I'ltalienne. 

Prepare the feet as in the recipe 

for "Calf's Feet, Plain," and serve 

with one pint of Sauce 2- I'ltalienne. 

(See recipe.) 

SWEETBREADS. 

Ris de Veau. 

Sweetbreads are the glands in the 
throat of a sucking calf. They are 
found in the throat of all very young 
sucking animals, but are more con- 
siderable in the throat of the young 
calf, and even then at the largest are 
seldom bigger than a man's flst 
doubled over. The sweetbreads are 
the glands used by the calf in suck- 
ing, and are only found In the young 
calf during the period when it is 
fed on its mother's milk. "When a 
calf is turned out to grass, the 
sweetbreads, or inilk glands, be- 
gin to grow smaller, ani in 
three or four days disappear, 
no longer standing out in a mass 
of delicate flesh, but hanging long 
and soft and flabby. On account of 
their delicacy, sweetbreads have al- 
ways been the object of particular 
attention of good cuisini6res, because, 
in a fine, fresh state and with prop- 
er preparation they can be made not 
only into a most delightful and pal- 
atable dish, but are, perhaps, the 
most r6cherch6 of all meat dishes. 
At least, the sweetbreads have al- 
ways been so considered by the 
French, who set the world the lesson 
of good eating hundreds of years 
ago; and the Creole chefs of New Or- 
leans, improving upon old French 
methods of cooking, as well as orig- 
inating their own delicious combina- 
tions, sustain the verdict of the gour- 
mets of the ancient mother country. 

It is surprising what a diversity of 
definitions of sweetbreads are given 
by educated people in America. 
Scarcely one person In ten, if the 
question is put directly, can tell just 
what a sweetbread is, and they can 
scarcely be blamed, for the most dis- 
tinguished lexicographers, from Web- 
ster down to the compiler of the 
New Century, fail to give the correct 
definition. "Webster defines sweet- 
breads "as the pancreas of any ani- 
mal," and defines "pancreas" as "a 
gland of the body, situated between 



the loins." The New Century's .defi- 
nition is almost parallel. Every old 
French dictionary (for it Was French 
cooks who first began to use the 
sweetbreads in cooking) define 
sweetbreads as the glands in the 
throat of any young animal, more 
generally the sucking calf, as these 
latter are used exclusively in the 
preparation of sweetbread dishes. 
The old Creole gourmets have had 
infinite amusement over the defini- 
tions given by American dictionary 
makers, and, as for the ancient Cre- 
ole butchers in the French Market, 
they curl their lips in scorn and tell 
you Just to come down to the New 
Orleans Slaughter-House when the 
calves are being killed, and they will 
show you the sucking calves, which 
have sweetbreads, and the calves 
which have gone out to grass and in 
whose throats the sweetbreads have 
disappeared. If you quote Webster 
and the New Century, they will tell 
you that a good butcher knows bet- 
ter than the dictionary maker where 
meats are concerned. 

The Picayune feels constrained to 
give the definition of sweetbreads as 
a matter of correct information. The 
custom of calling the panacreas the 
"sweetbreads" is accounted for by 
our Creole butchers in this way: 
The sweetbreads are very expensive, 
the smallest costing at least 25 cents 
apiece. To make a dish for six, al- 
lowing one apiece, would, therefore, 
cost $1.50, for sweetbreads alone, 
without other ingredients. Sweet- 
breads are not always to be found in 
the market in quantity to supply the 
demand. Large canning factories have 
therefore, made it a practice to take 
the gland of the stomach of the calf, 
or pancreas, and prepare it in such 
a way, by canning, that it partakes 
somewhat of the nature of a sweet- 
bread; and, as there is such wide- 
spread ignorance as to what a sweet- 
bread really is, even among the most 
fastidious epicureans of the United 
States, the "pancreas" is passed off 
as such, and is becoming gradually 
accepted as such outside of the New 
Orleans market, where the old 
French or Gascon butcher scorns to 
sell you anything but the real sweet- 
bread. He has too much respect for 
the traditional cooking of his native 
France and his own reputation as a 
reliable butcher to do such a thing as 
this. He laughs at the great big 
sweetbreads as large as a man's 
hand, spread out to the full extent 
and width, that come in cans labeled 
"Sweetbreads," and will tell you that 
no sucking calf In the world, unless 
it had goitre, could have such a gland 
In the throat. The French, indeed, 
use the term "Pancreas" in connec- 
tion with sweetbread; but the word 
Is meant to imply in this significa- 
tion "toute chair," or "all flesh," and 
has nothing in common with the 



pancreas proper, or stomach gland. 
Hence the very apt name which tliey 
have given to the sweetbread, "Ris de 
Veau"; it implies to all who have a 
comprehension of this beautiful and 
expressive language the soft, deli- 
cate, milky gland that is so dainty 
and rScherchS a dish in the most 
elegant French and Creole homes. 

With this explanation, the Pica- 
yune "Cook Book" will now give the 
mpst delicious Creole modes of pre- 
" paring this delectable dish. 

HoiY to Blanch Stveetbreads. 

Select three fine pairs of sweet- 
breads and clean and trim nicely. 
Soak them for at least two ana a 
half hours in cold fresh water, pour- 
ing off the water from time to time 
till three separate waters have been 
used. About three-quarters of an 
hour may be allowed for the first two 
waters. Add a pincli of salt to each 
water. After soaking for the time 
specified, drain the sweetbreads and 
place them in a saxicepan of cold 
water and set on the flre; add a half 
teaspoonful of salt, and let the-m 
blanch till they come to a boil. Then 
drain and set them in cold water to 
freslien. Drain thoroughly, press 
them into shape and lay on a nap- 
kin in a cool place. They are now 
ready for general use. The sweet- 
breads should be pressed down gently 
with a pound weight, in order to 
flatten well. 

Sn-eetbreads Larded \VIth Muslirooin 
Sauce. 

Ris de Veau Piqu6 aux Champignons. 

6 Sweetbreads. 1 Carrot. 

4 Thin Slices of Bacon. 

1 Onion. 1/4 Can of Mushrooms. 

1 Tablespoonful ot Floor. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Whole Sprig of Thyme. 3 Bay Leaves. 

1 Wineglass of Madeira or Sherry, 
1 Pint o£ Consomme. 

Salt and Pepper. Croutons. 

Soak the sweetbreads in clear, cold 
water as soon as I'rn come from mar- 
ket, for they are so delicate that 
they spoil very easily. Wash well, 
to take off all the blood; wash again 
in a clear cold water, and parboil 
them for ten minutes. Then drain 
them of all water, press them into 
shape and put them on a clean cloth 
on a table and cover with a plank 
and put'a weight upon them to flat- 
ten. When cold, clean with a knife, 
cutting off all the outside nerves, 
veins and fibers, witho'ut breaking 
the sweetbreads, however. Cut fat 
lard into little strips like matches, 
and, with a larding needle, lard the 
sweetbreads, slipping the needle in 
on one side and bringing out on the 
other. Lard each sweetbread eight 
times. Then slice one onion and one 
carrot very fine; mince three bay 
leaves and a whole sprig of thyme. 



Take a very thin slice of very fat 
bacon, cut it into thin strips and 
cover tile bottom of the saucepan 
with these. Lay the sweetbreads on 
top and put on top of these the 
sliced onion, carrot and finely 
minced herbs, o^iit and pepper 
by sprinkling nicely. Cover tliis 
with a few fine strips of fat ba- 
con. Cover the whole with a brown 
paper which has bsen well greased 
with butter, and put the pan in a 
slow oven with the paper on top. 
Let the sweetbreads bake for about 
t"wenty minutes, basting occasion- 
ally. In the meantim,e make a 
Sauce a, I'Espagnole as foUovys: Chop 
a fe"^v pieces of beef very fine, or 
else use good stock. If meat is used 
boil in about t"wo pints of water, 
Wlien it is reduced to about one 
pint, take off and strain. Take a 
tablespoonful of butter or lard, and 
brown lightly with a tablespoonful 
of flour. Then add the water and 
dissolve well, stirring constantly to 
prevent being lumpy. Add to this a 
half can of mus.hrooms, and let it 
simmer a few minutes, and then add 
a glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine. 
Let it cook rapidly, for about ten 
minutes. In the meantime, the sweet 
breads will have been cooked to a 
nicety. Take them out of the pan 
and put one by one into the sauce, 
and let them cook ten minutes long- 
er. Serve with buttered CroQtons cut 
in dice shapes. Sweetbreads are al- 
ways served with fresh young green 
peas. This is a famous Creole dish. 

SiveetbrenflM Willi Green Peas. 

His de Veau SautS aux Petit Pois. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 

1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4 Slices of Vat Bacon. 

1 Can of Frenci Petit Pois, or 1 Pint 

of Fresh Young Green Peas. 

3 Ba.T Leaves. 

1 Srirlg of Thyme. 3 Cloves. 

Vi Pint of Fresh Mills. 1 Pint of Consomma. 

Salt anil Pcjiper to Taste. 

Croutons. 

Prepare the Sweetbreads in ex- 
actly the same manner as Indicated 
in the above recipe, which is the 
very nicest way in which they can 
be served. Make the sauce as indi- 
cated, letting it brown slightly, and, 
instead of the mushrooms, add a can 
of French Petit Pois or a pint of 
fresh young green peas that have al- 
ready been boiled well and drained 
from all liquor. Place the sweet- 
breads in one by one and let them 
cook for ten minutes longer and 
serve with the sweetbreads placed 
in the center of the dish, and the 
green peas around them as a gar- 
nish. 



Sweetbrcnds AVIth Trnflleii. 

Ris de Veau aux TrufCes. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 
4 Slices of Fat Bacon. % Can of TrufflM. 

1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 

1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 
1 Pint of Consomme or Water. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flonr. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 
Salt and Pepper. 
Croutons. 
Prepare the sweetbreads in exact- 
ly the same manner as in the recipe 
"Sweetbreads with Mushrooms." 
When making the sauce, add a wine- 
glassful of Madeira or Sherry, and 
rne-half can of truffles cut in halves. 
Serve with the truffles as a gar- 
nish about the sweetbreads. This is 
a very expensive dish, very rgoherchS 
and very elegant. 

STvectbrends a la CrSiiie. 

Ris de Veau a, la CrSme. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 

10 Mushrooms. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter, 

1\^ Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Pint of Cream. 

Clean and parboil the sweetbreads 
for twenty minutes. Then remove 
all veins and nerves, and chop the 
meat into pieces of about an inch 
, and a half. , Chop the mushrooms 
very fine indeed. Put the butter in 
a saucepan, and, when it melts, add 
the flour, being careful not to let 
it brown. When perfectly smooth, 
add the- r^ilkand stir constantly until 
it boils. Then add the chopped mush- 
rooms and let thum simmer for five 
minutes. Season well to taste with 
salt and white pepper. Then add 
the sweetbreads and cook for five 
minutes longer and serve hot. At 
luncheons and diAners the Sweet- 
breads k la Crdme are served in small 
silver shells or fancy paper cases. 

Sweetbreads ft la Flnanel$re. 

Ris de Veau 3, la Financi^re. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbread % Pound of Butter, 
3 Carrots. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 
3 Bay Leaves. 
1 Pint of Beef Consomme or Water. 
1 Pint of Rich Chlcjion Broth or Water. 
2 Truffles. 12 Mushrooms. 18 Stoned Ollvea. 
12 Godlveau. Quenelles. 
2 Blanched Chicken Livers. 
A Half Pint of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 
A Dash of Cayenne. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Croutons Fried in Butter to Garnish. 
Select fine, fresh Sweetbreads and 
prepare as in the recipe for Sweet- 
breads Larded With Mushrooms. 
Parboil for twenty minutes; then 
drain of all water; press them into 
shape, lay on a clean napkin and cov- 
er with a plank and place a weight 
upon them to press and make solid. 



93 



Take a piece of fine salt pork, and 
cut into little thin strips like matclies 
and lard the Sweetbreads with this, 
using a very- fine larding needle, and 
following implicitly the direction 
given in the recipe for Sweetbreads 
Larded With Mushroom Sauce.- Lard 
each Sweetbread eight times. Then 
take a shallow saucepan and piil 
within a half pound of butter. When 
the butter melts, lay in the Sweet- 
breads, one by one. Season with 
salt and ptpper very lightly, and add 
the three carrots, sliced fine, and 
the onion, sliced very fine. Add the 
finely minced thyme and bay leaves. 
Butter a piece of brown paper and 
cover the saucepan; then set in the 
oven and let the Sweetbreads cook 
slowly till they are of a bright 
golden brown. From time to time 
uncover the saucepan and turn the 
Sweetbreads, so that all portions of 
them may be evenly colored. When 
they have reached this beautiful col- 
or add one pint of good beef broth 
(Consomme or Bouillon), and let 
them simmer foj a half or tliree- 
quarters of an hour. When nearly 
ready to serve, prepare a Sauce a, la 
FinanciSre as follows: Take two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, melt and 
remove from the fire, and add grad- 
ually a tablespoonful ot flour;- blend 
well with a wooden spoon till very 
smooth, and moisten with one pint 
of rich chicken broth and set on the 
fire. Add the truffies, nicely sliced; 
a dozen and a half stoned olives; 
the blanched chicken livers, cut in 
pieces; the mushrooms, nicely 
chopped; a half pint of Madeira or ■ 
Sherry Wine, salt and pepper to 
taste, and a dash of Cayenne or 
Tabasco. Let the sauce cook for 
twenty minutes. It should be of the 
consistency of rich cream. Place the 
sauce in a round dish, lay the Sweet- 
breads over it, garnish with the Go- 
diveau Quenelles and CroQtons fried 
In butter and send to the table hot. 

Sweetbreads Ik la Poulettc. 

Ris de Veau a. la roulette. 

3 Pall's of Sweetbreads. 

The Yolks ot 4 Eggs. Tlie Juice of 1 Lemon. 

1/4 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

A Sauce a la Poulette. 

Parboil the Sweetbreads for about 
twenty minutes, then make a Sauce 
Si la Poulette (see recipe), adding the 
juice of one lemon and seasoning to 
taste. But do not add the eggs till 
the sauce has been taken from the 
fire or it will curdle. When the 
sauce is made, place the sweetbreads 
in it, one by one, and let it come to 
the boiling point. Then remove 
from the fire and stir in the yolks 



of four eggs that have been well 
beaten, and a half tablespoonful of 
butter. Sprinkle with finely-chopped 
parsley, pour over the sweetbreads 
and serve. 

SweetbroailH In CasHeroIcn. 

Ris de Veau en Casseroles, ou Vol- 
au-Vent. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 
Vi, Cau of Slushrooms. 
2 Dozen Oysters. 
1 Glass of Slierry Wine. 
A Sauce a la Poulette. 
Parboil the Sweetbreads in ex- 
actly the same manner as in the 
above recipe for Sweetbreads a la 
Poulette. Six sweetbreads will suf- 
fice. Cut them inio dice pieces af- 
ter parboiling; add a quarter of a 
can ot finely-chopped muslirooms to 
the sauce, and a glass of Sherrv 
wine. Take two dozen oysters and 
cut in pieces, taking off all the hard 
portions. Add the chopped sweet- 
breads to the sauce, and, after ten 
minutes, add the oysters. Let them 
cook for five minutes, have ready a 
pan filled with a rich vol-au-vent 
crust, pour the mixture in and serve. 
Or make the vol-au-vent crust, which 
is very diflicult (see recipe), into 
small shells; bake and fill witli the 
sweetbreads. This is an elegant 
disli for fashionable luncheons, but 
quite above the ordinary household- 
er's purse. The sweetbreads are 
generally served in caseroles or fan- 
cy cases. 

S^reetbreads Crtsplncitcn. 

Crfipinettes de Ris de Veau. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 

1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

, % Clove ot Garlic. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

1 Teaspoonful ot Prepared Mustard. 

Clean and parboil the sr.'eetbreads 
as already shown in recipe. Chop 
an onion very fine and place it in a 
saucepan with a tablespoonful of 
butter. Let them simmer without 
browning; add one bay leaf, one 
sprig of thyme, one-half clove of 
garlic, a teaspoonful of prepared 
mustard, and mix well. Then add 
a pint of water and stir well; then 
add the sweetbreads which have been 
chopped very fine and formed into- 
"Crgpinettes," or little fringed balls, 
by patting with the hand; let them 
simmer, for about fifteen minutes 
longer. Serve with any sauce, prefi 
erably a Cream Sauce. (See recipe 
under chapter "Sauces for Fish, 
Meats, etc.") 

Frieil Sireetbreads Breaded. 

Ris de Veau Panfies. 

3 Pairs ot Sweetbreads. 

1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumba. 

A Cream Sauce. 

Wash and parboil the sweetbreads 



94 



and then trim oft all tendons and 
nerves. Cut into pieces of about two 
inches long and roll first in a well- 
beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. 
Drop into boiling fat and fry till a 
golden brown. Serve with a Cream 
Sauce. 

Broiled STveetlireads. 

Ris de Veau GrillSes. 

3 Pnlra of Sweetbreads. 

2 TablespooDtuls o( Melted Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Parboil the sweetbreads and then 
remove all nerves. Cut into halves. 
Brush with melted butter and place 
on the gridiron. Broil nicely, and, 
when well colored, take off, pour 
melted butter over them, season 
again, and serve very hot. This is a 
delicious breakfast dish. 

SweethTeuiS^ Smothered. 

Ris de Veau Braissgs. 

3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. 

2 Tablespoonluls of Butter. 

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay LcaTCB. 

1 Pint of Consomme or Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Prepare the Sweetbreads as in the 
recipe for "Sweetbreads Larded With 
Mushrooms." Put them into a sauce- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ler, and let them brown slightly. 
Add a finely-sliced carrot and onion 
and the minced herbs. Season light- 
ly with salt and pepper. Cover the 
saucepan with a buttered paper, and 
then cover closely. Occasionally un- 
cover and turn the Sweetbreads till 
they are all browned evenly to a 
nice golden brown. When they have 
reached this color, add the pint of 
Consomme or water .and cover again 
and let them simmer for about twen- 
ty minutes. They are now ready t(^ 
serve with any kind of sauce or gar- 
nish that may be desired. In serv- 
ing sweetbreads thus prepared, al- 
ways place the sauce on the dish, first 
having the dish very hot; lay the 
Sweetbreads over the sauce, garnish 
nicely "with fried Crotitons and serve. 

Sweetbreads thus prepared may be 
served with a Sauce S. I'Oiselle, Sauce 
Salpicon, Sauce k la Soubise, Sauce 
a. la Bearnaise, Sauce a la Duxelle, 
Sauce aux Gourmets, with a Pur6e 
of Spinach, or with hot Cr#pes. 

Observations. 

There are many other ways of 
serving Sweetbreads. We have "Ris 
de Veau ft I'Espagnole," "Ris de Veau 
en Coquilles," etc., for the Creoles 
have infinite variety in serving al- 
most every dish. But the above are 
the recipes in most general use, and 
the recipes "Sweetbreads Larded with 
Mushrooms," Sweetbreads with Green 
Peas" and "Sweetbreads with Truf- 
fles" cannot be too highly recom- 
mended. These preparations are In 



a very distinct manner peculiar to 
New Orleans, and are elegant en- 
tries at the most distinguished 
'feasts. 

TRIPE. 
Tripe. 
Tripe, which is the large stomach 
•of ruminating animals, is generally 
cleaned, scraped, bleached and pre- 
parde by the butchers before it is 
sold. It is nutritious and digestible. 
To prepare the tripe properly tor 
cooking, wash it carefully in several 
waters. When thoroughly clean, put 
it in a kettle of cold water; add' one 
tablespoonful of salt and one of vin- 
egar, and let the tripe boil for five 
hours at least. In the meantime, 
pared by the butchers before it is 
always best, if tripe is to be used 
for breakfast to prepare it and give 
the long boiling the day before. 
Drain thoroughly. Then it is ready 
for preparation according to any of 
the following recipes: 

Stewed Tripe. 

Tripe Sautge. 

2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Ijeaf. 

% Clove of Garlic. % Pint of Milk. 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Take the prepared tripe and out 
into strips of about one finger length 
and a half inch In width. Put a ta- 
blespoonful in a saucepan; add a fine- 
ly-sliced onion, a sprig of parsley 
and a bay leaf, minced. Stir in the 
melted butter without letting it 
brown, then add a tablespoonful of 
flour. Stir well and add a pint of 
milk. Stir constantly till it comes to 
a boil, seasoning to the taste with 
salt and pepper. Then add the well- 
seasoned tripe and let it cook over 
a raioderate fire for about five min- 
utes. 

Stetred Tripe a la liyonnalse. 

Tripe a. la Lyonnaise. 

2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 

% Clove of Garlic. 
The Juice of 1 Lemon, or a Teaspoontnl 
of Vinegar. 
Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 
Place a tablespoonful of butter in 
a saucepan and add one chopped on- 
ion, one carrot, finely sliced; a sprig 
each of thyme, parsley, bay leaf and 
salt and pepper. Let it brown slight- 
ly and place the tripe on top, and ad- 
ding a half clove of garlic, minced 
very fine. Sprinkle with chopped 
parsley and add the Juice of one 
lemon. Let it all simmer for a few 
minutes and theii add a half cup of 
broth or hot water. Season to the 



95 



tast«, let it simmer for twenty min- 
utes longer and serve. 

' Tripe a la Fonlette. 

Gras-Double a, la Poulette. 
2 Pounds of Tripe. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 
1 Tfiblespoonful of Flour. 
1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 
A Sauce a la Foulette. 
Having- prepared the tripe accord- 
ing to the directions given under the 
heading of "Tripe," , make a rich 
Sauce a, la Poulette, always omitting 
the eggs till later. (See recipe.) 
Take eight small white onions that 
have already been boiled in plain 
water until they are perfectly ten- 
der, and add to the sauce. Let them 
stew for about five minutes. Then 
add the tripe, which has been cut into 
pieces of three inches in length, and 
one-half inch in Tvidth, and stew the 
whole gently fsr ffbout a half hour. 
Take off the fire and add the beaten 
yolks of two eggs, stirring constantly 
and serve hot. 

Pried Tripe. 

Tripe Frite. 

2 Pounds of Tripe. 
1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. 
Prepare the tripe, boil well, and 
cut into pieces of three inches in 
length and one in width. Roll it in 
a beaten egg and then roll in grated 
bread crumbs. Drop in boiling lard 
and fry to a golden brown. (See di- 
rections for frying.) Take off the 
fire and place on a bed of fried par- 
sley and garnish with sliced lemon. 
Serve with a Sauce Piquante or a 
Sauce Poivrade. (See recipe for 
meat sauces.) 

Tripe & la Creole, 

Gras-Double a. la Creole. 

2 Pounds of Tripe. 

12 Tomatoes, or a 2-Pound Can. 

2. Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Square Inch of Lean Ham. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 

Salt and Pepper to Tast*. 

A Dash of Cayenne. 

Clean the tripe well, and boil till 
tender. Cut it into slices of about 
two inches long and half an inch 
wide. Take two onions and slice 
them fine, and a tablespoonful of 
butter. Put in a saucepan together 
and let them smother well. Then 
chop about one inch sqquare of lean 



ham very fine, and add. Take two 
cloves of garlic, chopped fine, with 
three sprigs each of thyme and bay 
leaf, minced very fine. Put in a 
saucepan, and let all brown. Then 
add about twelve large, fresh toma- 
toes, or the contents of a two-pound 
can. Season all to taste with salt 
and Cayenne pepper. Let it cook for 
ten minutes, and then add the tripe, 
and let all smother for twenty-five 
minutes. Season to taste, and serve 
hot. 

Tripe a la Mode de CaSn, 

Gras-Double &. la Mode de Caen. 

3 Pounds of Tripe. 3 Onions. 3 Carrots. 

1 Dozen Whole Bay Leaves. 

1 Dozen Whole Cloves. 

1 Doaen Whole Allspice. 

3 Cloves of Gai-lie (whole.) 

1 Ounce of Thyme (whole.) 

2 Dozen Pieces of Bacon 2 Inches Square. 

% Bottle of White Wine. 

1 Cup of Broth or Water. 

Salt, Cayenne and Chill Pepper to Taste. 

Take three pounds of tripe. Cut 
the tripe into pieces of about two 
inches square. Slice three onions 
and three large carrots very fine. 
Take one dozen whole bay I'^aves. 
one ounce of thyme, whole; one doz- 
en whole cloves, and the same num- 
ber of allspice, three whole cloves of 
garlic, two dozen pieces of very thin 
bacon cut into pieces of two inches 
square. Have ready a two-gallon 
earthen jar that can stand baking in 
an oven. Put in the bottom of the 
jar a thin layer of butter. Place on 
top a thin -layer of bacon, then a 
thin layer of onions, carrots, bay 
leaves, thyme, garlic, spices, divid- 
ing into two equal portions the 
whole amount. Sprinkle over the 
whole salt, Cayenne and Chili pep- 
per. On top of this lay one-half of 
the tripe. Over the tripe place a 
layer of bacon; then vegetables, sea- 
sonings, etc. Over this place another 
layer of tripe, and remnants of 
thyme, bay leaf, vegetables, bacon, 
etc., as below, this being the la«t 
layer. Pour over all a half bottle of 
White Wine and one cup of broth or 
water. Cover the jar closely with a 
layer of Pie Paste (PatS Bris6e^- 
see recipe), set in a very moderate 
oven, and let it cook slowly for at 
least five hours of constant, steady 
cooking. Tills Is a very rgcherchS 
old-fashioned Creole dish, and very 
excellent. Some add to the tripe a 
small quantity of calf's head or feet. 
In making this dish you will need lit- 
tle else for dinner besides a soup or 
gumbo. > 



CHAPTER XIV. 
MtJTTOX. 

Du Mouton 



The leg, shoulder and loiri of the 
mutton are used as roasting pieces. 
The brisket and neck are used for 
soups and stews, and from the loins 
are cut the delicate French chops 
or cutlets of mutton. Mutton Is so 
susceptible of elegant seasoning, and 
so easily impregnated with the dif- 
rerent aromatic herbs used in cook- 
ing that it becomes not only most 
agreeable to the taste, but tender 
ami very easily digested. 



Something to Remember in Cooking 
Mutton. 

Remember that mutton must never 
be fried. You will hear of mutton 
chops .breaded, and mutton chops 
en papilotte, in imitation of the ways 
of cooking veal chops, but the Cre- 
oles very wisely and very sensibly re- 
frain from cooking mutton in any 
other ways than those given -in this 
book. No good Creole cook will eat 
a fried mutton chop. 

Roast Leg of Mutton. 

Gigot Roti. 

1 Leg of Mutton. 
Salt aud Pepper to Taste. 

Select a fine, tender leg of mutton. 
Wipe thoroughly with a damp towel 
and dredge with sa.lt and pepper, 
thoroughly rubbing, so that the meat 
may be penetrated by the seasoning. 
Place the mutton in a baking pan, set 
in a quick oven and bake, basting 
every ten minutes or so, allowing 
twelve minutes to every pound. The 
mutton must never be overdone but 
underdone. The Creoles always serve 
it rare. It will require no larding, 
for the meat is rich and soon makes 
sufficient juice to allow frequent 
basting. To ascertain if done, press 
with the fingers or stick with a 
fork; the juice will spurt out, and it 
Is then ready to serve. Decorate the 
bone with a quilling of white paper, 
and serve in its own sauce. The dish 
on which mutton is placed must al- 
ways be very hot, as alsd the plates 
on which it is to be served. 

Avoid thickening the gravy with 
flour. No practice is more reprehen- 
sible. If well cooked, the juice will 
almost spurt from the leg before it 
is carved. A very nice way to serve 



it, and one generally used by th«- 
Creoles, is to put a circle of nicely- 
boiled and browned turnips aroTOid, 
the dish, and serve with the gravy ol 
the mutton. 

Roast Saddle of Mutton, 

Selle de Mouton Rotie. 

A Saddle 'of Mutton. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Currant Jelly. 

A saddle of mutton is two loins. 
Proceed to roast in exactly the same 
manner as for a single leg. Serve 
with Currant Jelly. 

Roast Loin of Mutton. 

Filet de Mouton Roti. 

A Filet of Mutton. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Garnish of Green Peas. 

The filet of mutton is a square cut 
from the loin. Proceed to dredge 
with salt and pepper, and roast in. 
exactly the same manner as leg of 
mutton. The Creoles serve the fllet 
very often with a garnish of green 
peas (Petit Pois) piled around. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 

Gigot de Mouton Bouilli, Sauce aux. 
Capres. 

1 Leg of Mutton. 1 Herb Bouquet. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A Caper Sauce. 

Rub the leg of mutton well with 
salt and pepper. Have ready a pot 
of boiling water, into which you have- 
thrown the herbs, bay leaf, salt and 
pepper, allowing a teaspoonful eacli- 
of the two latter ingredients. Put 
the leg of mutton into the water,- 
being very careful to have it well 
covered with water, else the meat 
will blacken. Let it boil gently but 
steadily, allowing fifteen minutes to- 
every pound of meat. When done, 
place on a dish and serve with a 
Caper Sauce. In serving slice nicely 
and put a few drops of lemon on 
each slice, and pour over the Caper- 
sauce. (See recipe Caper Sauce.) 
Mutton thus prepared is also serve* 
with a Purfee of Turnips. 



97 



Mutton SteTT. 

Ragotlt de Mouton aux Pommes de 
Terre. 

I 4 Founds of the Brisket of Mutton. 

6 Irish Potatoes. 

3 Large Onions. 1 Bay I«af. 

M Clove of Gallic. 

V4 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

2 Quarts of Water. 

1 Sunare Tnch of Hnm,-. Oliopped Very rine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cut the mutton into pieces of about 
an Inch square and season well with 
salt and pepper. Put one-quarter of 
a tablespoonful of lard into the stew- 
pot, and when it melts add the thinly 
sliced onions. Let these brown for 
a few minutes and then add the 
mutton and the ham, chopped very 
fine. Let this continue browning', 
and when slightly browned, add one 
tablespoonful of finely sifted flour 
and stir well. Then add the finely- 
minced bay leaf and a half clove of 
'garlic, minced fine. Brown lightly, 
for a mutton stew must never be 
dark. After twenty minutes, add two 
quarts of boiling water and let it 
boil for about ten minutes longer, 
seasoning to taste. Then add the 
potatoes, cut into halves, and let 
the mixture cook for three-quarters 
of an hour longer, making one hour 
and a half in all. Let it simmer 
gently all the time, so that the meat 
may be perfectly tender. 

Mntton Ste^T WitU Turnips. 

Ragoflts de Mouton aux Navets. 

4 Pounds of the Brisliet of Mntton. 

6 Turnips. 3 Large Onions. 

1 Bay Leaf. % Clove of Garlic. 

Vi Tablespoonful of Lard. 

2 Quarts of Water. 

1 Square Inch of Ham, Chopped Very Fine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cut the mutton into pieces of about 
an inch in length and thickness, and 
season well. Proceed to make the 
stew as mentioned above, only in- 
stead of adding the potatoes, add 
turnips parboiled, and cut into halves 
or quarters. This is a very delicious 
stew. The neck of the mutton may 
also be used for stews, but preferably 
the brisket. 

Slionlder of IHntton Smothered With 

Turnips. 

jfipaule de Mouton Braisfie. 

1 Shoulder of Mutton. 
1 Carrot. 1 Onion. % scaiK nf rc'er.r. 
4 Cloves. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Turnips. 
If the mutton does not appear very 
tender the process of smothering it 
will make it so. It is well to beat 
the leg well with a rolling pin, and 
you will be sure of good and tender 
eating. Season well. Slice an on- 
ion and one carrot very fine; chop 
fine a half stalk of celery, and put 
these, with the shoulder of mutton. 
Into a deep baking pot. Cover well 



and let the mutton juice permeate 
the vegetables and brown them. Then 
add the minced bay leaves and cloves; 
cover and let these brown, and after 
ten minutes add one quart of boil- 
ing water. Season well again and 
set on a steady fire, allowing fifteen 
minutes to every pound. An hour 
before serving add six whole tur- 
nips, which have been peeled and 
parboiled, and let these remain 
smothered with the mutton. Serve 
with the turnips as a garnish. This 
dish is highly recommended. 

Broiled Mutton Chops. 

Cotelettes de Mouton GrillSes et 
PanSes. 

6 Mutton Chops. 
Butter. Salt and Pepper. 

In selecting mutton chops for 
broiling, remember that the smaller 
French chops, which are cut from the 
breast of the mutton, are generally 
served at dinner, and the loin chops 
for breakfast. The breast chops are 
daintier in appearance, but the loin 
chops are sweeter and the meat is 
more solid. The French chops should 
always be cut thinner than the. loin 
chops. 

Season the chops well with salt 
and pepper and brush with melted 
butter and a few bread crumbs. Have 
the gridiron very hot and place the 
chops upon it. In a few seconds 
turn the chop and let this side cook. 
The blood will be running out, and 
the chop is done. Place on a plat- 
ter, butter thickly and sprinkle with 
chopped parsley and serve very hot. 

Mutton Cutlets. ) 

Cotelettes de Mouton, ' ■ 

4 Mutton Cutlets. ; 

Butter. Salt and Pepper. 

The cutlets are slices from the 
thick part of the leg of the mutton 
and are very excellent eating. Trim 
off the outer skin and broil in the 
same manner as mutton chops. They 
are very delicious served for din- 
ner with a garnish of PurSe of Spin- 
ach. (See recipe.) 

Mutton Chops, Brefrer's Style. 

Cotelettes de Mouton k la Brasseur. 

i Mutton Chops. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Juice of Lemon. 

3 Shallots. Chopped Pine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Select six thick chops from the loin 
of the mutton. Trim neatly and sea- 
son well with salt and black pepper 
and a dash of Cayenne. Rub lightly 
with butter on either side and broil 
on a hot charcoal fire. Have ready 
a- hot dish and pour over the chops 
a sauce of melted butter, seasoned 
nicely with salt and pepper, the juice 
of one lemon and three minced shal- 
lots. Serve hot. 



Mutton Hash. 

Hachis de Mouton. 

3 Cups o£ Hashed Mutton. 

6 Potatoes. 1 Herb Bouquet. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Tablescpoonful o£ Lard or Butter. 

This is a splendid way of utilizing 
the left-over mutton. After having 
taken oft all the rough edges of the 
roast and cut out the gristle and hard 
membrane, hash the mutton into 
pieces of about one Inch in size. Take 
six left-over tomatoes, or freshly 
boiled, and cut into quarters. Chop 
fine one herb bouquet. Place a ta- 
blespoonful of butter or a half ta- 
blespoonful of lard into the stew- 
pot, and as it melts add the mutton 
seasoned well, and a few minutes 
later the fine herbs. Mince the clove 
of garlic if the flavor is liked and 
add. Stir constantly without brown- 
ing much, and add a tablespoonful of 
flour. Let this brown very slightly 
and then add the tomatoes. Cover 
and let all simmer for about twenty 
minutes, and then pour over a pint 
bf boiling water. Season again to 
taste and set back on the stove and 
let it simmer gently for about 
three-quarters of an hour. Cut some 
Croutons and fry them in butter; 
place on a dish and serve with the 
hash. The Creoles often add several 
poached eggs if the sauce is not thick 
enough. It is also a frequent custom 
to add a quarter or a half can of 
mushrooms to the hash, but this is 
always a matter of taste and econo- 
my. 

Mutton Feet a la Poulette. 

Pieds de Mouton S, la Poulette. 

32 llutton Feet. 

A Sauce a la Greme. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

H Teaspoonful of French Vinegar. 

1 Gill of Water. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

^ Can of Mushrooms (if desired.) 

This is a famous Creole dish. Scald 
the mutton feet in boiling water and 
remove every vestige of wool that 
may adhere, cleaning and scraping 
the feet. Then place them in a pot, 
cover well with boiling water, add 
half of a lemon (including peel and 
meat) to the water, and salt well. 
In the meantime, prepare a Sauce 
a la Poulette as follows: Make a 
Cream Sauce (see recipe Meat 
Sauces) and add the juice of one lem- 
on, or half a tablespoonful of good 
vinegar. Take the mutton feet out 
of the water in which they have 
been boied, take out the big bones 
from the feet. Put the mutton feet 
Into the Sauce 9. la Poulette, add a 
gill of water, let all simmer about 
five minutes, and then take off the 
fire and add the yolks of two eggs. 



beaten well, stirring well into the 
sauce. Serve hot. Many of the 
Creoles add a half can of mushrooms 
to the mutton feet before putting in 
the sauce. This makes the dish very 
delicious, increasing the flavor. 

Mutton Feet ft la liyonnalae, 

Pieds de Mouton a, la Lyonnaise. 

12 Mutton Feet. 
2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Pint of Broth. Salt and Pepper to Tastt 

Croutons. 

Clean and boil the mutton feet In 
the same way as indicated in the 
above recipe. When done take out 
the large bones and cut the feet into 
two-inch pieces. Cut two onions 
very flne, mincing them, and brown 
in a saucepan with a tablespoonful 
of butter. When slightly brown, add 
a tablespoonful of flour. Mix well, 
making a nice Brown Roux (see re- 
cipe under chapter on "Sauces for 
Meats, Pish, etc.") and then add about 
a pint of the broth in which the mut- 
ton feet have been boiled. As it 
boils, skim off the grease and let 
it simmer for about ten minutes. 
Then add the mutton feet and let 
them simmer ten minutes longer and 
serve hot, with Croiltons of bread 
fried in butter. Mutton feet may 
also be served with a Purfie of On- 
ions. (See recipe.) 

Stuffed Mutton F«"et. 

Pieds de Mouton Parois. 

12 Mutton Feet. % Cup of Wet Bread. 

1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 1 Spoon of Batter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

3 Thin Slices of Veal. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

3 Carrots. 2 Onions. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean the mutton feet well, accord- 
ing to directions given, and boil and 
take out all the bones. Take a half 
cup of wet bread and squeeze well. 
Season well with salt and pepper and 
fry in a little butter and add a 
chopped egg. Stuff the feet with 
this, splitting down the length and 
sewing up to prevent the dressing 
escaping. Take a saucepan and put 
in one tablespoonful of lard and lay 
over it thin slices of veal, well sea- 
soned, and one bay leaf, one spng 
of thyme and geranium (minced very 
fine), three chopped carrots, and two 
onion's (chopped very fine). Po^J 
over this the juice of a lemon, let it 
simmer gently for about a half hour, 
turning the veal, that it may cook 
•well and be thoroughly penetrated 
by the juices. • Put the stuffed ™"t" 
ton feet on top, cover closely, and 
let all simmer for a half hour longer. 
Then unsew the mutton feet, lay 
them on the slices of veal, garnisn 
nicely and serve with a Sauce a. I'Es- 



99 



pagnole, Bauoe aux Tomates, a Sauce 
aux .pgnons, or Sauce a, la Proven- 
■gale. " The latter two are highly reo- 
ommeded. 

Slieep Tongues Smotliered. 

Langues de Mouton Braisfies. 

6 Tongues. 1 Large Onion, Out Fine, 

2 Carrots, Cut Fine. 

1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Very Fine. 

f Flclsles. ^ of a Cup ot Capers. 

1 Pint of Boiling Water. 

2 Slices of Bacon. 

Scald and blanch the tongue re- 
moving the skins. Throw them into 
cold water. Dry and piqu6 or lard 
very delicately with larding needles. 
Season well with salt and pepper. 
Slice the bacon into fine strips and 
lay in the bottom of a saucepan; 
place the lamb tongues over this. 
Place on top another fine layer of 
bacon in very fine strips. Add the 
minced carrots, onion, herbs, and salt 
and pepper again to taste. Let it 
simmer for about fifteen minutes and 
then moisten w^ith about a pint of 
boiling water or broth. Let it- cook 
over a slow fire about three hours. 
Then take out the tongues, place 
them on a hot dish, -strain the sauce 
through a sieve, set back on the 
stove a few seconds, and add one- 
quarter of a cup of capers, and three 
pickles, sliced fine. Stir well and 
let it boil up once. Povir over the 
tongues and serve. 

Lamb tongues are prepared in the 
same manner when braised or smoth- 
ered. 

Sheep Brains, 

Cervelles de Mouton. 

Vi Pound ot Brains. 

1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

Grated Breadcrumbs. 

Parsley to Garnish. 

The brains of mutton are pre- 
pared in exactly the same manner as 
calf's brains and served accordingly. 
(See recipe). But the brains of mut- 
ton are far more delicate, and, con- 
sequently, considered a more rficher- 
ch6 dish. 

Plunge the brains into' cold water 
to disgorge them of all blood and re- 
move the fine skin and blood that 
surround them. Then blanch with 
scalding water. In five minutes 
take them out of the hot water and 
put them into a saucepan and cover 
with cold water. Add a tiny onion, 
sliced fine, parsley and a whole bay 
leaf. Let them simmer gently for 
five minutes. Then take from the 
,flre and drain. When cold cut into 
pieces of a square inch and dip In a 
batter or tomato sauce, and then in 
grated bread crumbs, patting gently. 
Drop into boiling lard and fry to 
a".solden brown. Take out and drain 
.off "grease, and serve, on a bed of 



fried parsley. A garnish of boiled 
green peas is also very pretty and' 
palatable. 

Sheep Brains, Brown Sauce, 

Cervelles de Mouton, au Beurre Noir. 

Prepare the brains in exactly the 
s'ame manner as indicated in the 
above recipe and serve with Brown 
Butter Sauce. .(See recipe.) 

Sheep Kidneys, 

Rognons en Brochettes. 

6 Kidneys. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Slice the kidneys very thin and 
wash well, then scald and wipe dry. 
Pass a skewer through each kidney, 
after seasoning well, and brush with 
melted butter. Place on a double 
broiler and cook for five minutes, 
allowing two and a half minutes to 
each side. Place on a hot dish and 
pour over melted butter and a little 
lemon . juice. Garnish nicely with 
parsley and serve hot. 

LAIUB, 

Agneau. 

Lamb is in season from April to 
September. Like very young veal, 
it is unwholesome and tasteless if 
eaten too young. A lamb should al- 
ways be two months old, else it will 
be what the Creoles call "une viande 
gSlaineuse," or a jelly meat not fit 
to eat and very difficult to manage. 
The best way to cook lamb is to 
roast it or bake it. The loin of 
the lamb is cut into 'chops; the 
brains, tongue, cutlets, tendons and 
feet are cooked in the same manner 
as those of sheep, and it would be 
superfluous to repeat the recipes. 
Stewed Lambs' Tongues, or 'Lang- 
ues d'Agneau SautS," served with a 
Sauce Tomate, or a Sauce a la Tar- 
tare, is an excellent entree, or lunch- 
eon dish. 

Roast Iiamh, Mint Sauce. 

Quartier d'Agneau Roti, Sauce 
Menthe. 

The Hind Quarter of a Lamb. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Parsley to Garnish. Mint Sauce. 

This is the standing dish for the 
Easter dinner in New Orleans. Select 
a fine, fresh, white hind-quarter of 
■lamb. Boast in exactly the same 
manner as indicated In "Roast Leg 
of Mutton" (see recipe), only allow 
about twenty minutes to the pound 
in cooking. Serve with garnish of 
parsley and a Mint Sauce. (See re- 
cipe.) 

Roast Lamb is alw?iya,. served with 
fresh, young green peas and aspara- 
gjis tips.. 



100 



Roast Lamb ft la Bearnalse. 

Agreau Roti a, la Bearnaise. 

The Hind Quarter of a Lamb. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf. 

6 Minced Shallots. 

1 Tablespoonfal of Butter. 

1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Tie Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Select a fine, white hind-quarter of 
the Iamb; lard it in the same man- 
ner as griven for larding "Roast Filet 
of Beef." (See recipe.) Rub well 
with butter on top and sprinkle over 
thickly with the soft of bread crumbs, 
minced parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt 
and pepper and minced shallots. Set 
In the stove and cover with a but- 
tered brown paper. Let it roast; al- 
lowing eighteen or twenty minutes 
to the pound, in a quick oven, and, 
when done, take off the paper 
sprinkle again lightly with grated 
bread crumbs; let it brown and set 
in a hot dish; sprinkle over with 
lemon juice; garnish the dish with 
sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon, 
and serve, carving in slices and plac- 
ing a quarter of a lemon on each 
plate. 

Filet of Lamb Roasted anil Lariljil. 

Filet d'Agneau Roti et Piqu6. 

A Filet of Lamb. 

Lard Sufficient to Lard Thoroughly. 

1 Small Onion. ' 1 Bay Loaf. 

4 Cloves, if desired. 

114 Tablespoonfnls of Butter. 

1 Tablcspoonful of Glace. (See recipe.) 

1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry ■V^•'iue. or Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Trim the filet nicely, removing the 
oiitPr muscular skin. Lard the fllet 
well, using larding needles. The 
lard must be very thin, like a shoe- 
string. The larding is done by filling 
the needles with the lard and push- 
ing them through the fllet as far as 
they will go. If the needles are 
long enough they will come out on 
-the other side of the filet, leaving 
the lard within. Repeat this pro- 
cess all do"wn the center and along 
the sides of the fllet, about an inch 
apart, and have the rows neat and 
even. If you have not a larding 
needle, make incisions with a knife 
and push the lard in with your finger, 
but the filet is nev^r as juicy and ten- 
der, nor does it look so clean and 
even when baked. When well larded, 
dredge well with salt and pepper, 
rubbing this thoroughly into the beef. 
Cut up one small onion, one bay leaf, 
and mash four cloves, and place in 
the bottom of the baking pan. Lay 
the larded filet on this bed, the larded 
side being uppermost. Put small 
bits of buttpr equal to a half tea- 
spoonful on top, and bake in a quick 
oven thirty minutes. This dish is 



always eaten rare. To ascertain if 
sufficiently done, stick a fork into 
the filet; if the blood bubbles out, 
it Is ready to serve. The meat, when 
done, is always spongy and elastic to 
the touch. 

In the meantime, prepare the fol- 
lowing Brown Sauce: Take one ta- 
blcspoonful of butter and one ol 
Glace (see recipe under chapter 
"Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.") and 
three of water, smoothly rubbed, and 
melt in a saucepan, stirring con- 
stantly to prevent burning. When 
brown, add one glass of Madeira or 
Sh-erry Wine and-a half -cup-Of water, . 
Season well with salt and pepper. 
Pour over the fllet, which must be 
placed in a hot dish, and serve with 
fresh, young green peas. 

Fllet of Lamb ft la Bechamel. 

Filet d'Agneau t la Bechamel. 

A Filet of Lamb. 
A Sauce a la Bechamel. 
Roast the lamb as in the manner 
given, and prepare a "Sauce 3. la 
Bechamel." (See recipe.) Slice the 
lamb and pour over the sauce and 
serve. This is considered an excel- 
lent entrfie. 

Broiled Lamb Chops. 

Cotellettes d'Agneau Grillges. 

6 Lamb Chops. 
Butter, Salt and Pepper. 

Broil in exactly tlie same manner 
as Mutton Chops, only let them re- 
main a little longer on the griddle, 
until the chops are firm under pres- 
sure of a fork. 

Season the chops well with salt 
and pepper and brush with meltel 
butter and a few broad crumbs. Have 
the gridiron hot and place the chops 
•upon it. In a few seconds turn the 
chops and let the other sides cook. 
Place on a platter, butter thickly anJ 
teprinkle with chopped parsley ani 
serve very hot. 

Smothered Brea.st of Lamb. 

Poitrine d'Agneau Braisfie. 

Shoulder and Breast of a Lamb. 
2 ■Sprigs of Parsley. 
1 Carrot. 2 Onions. 

1 Clove of Garlic. % Can of Tomitoes. 

A Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 
Bread Crumbs. 
2 Tahlespoontuls of Butter. 
Pepper and Salt to Taste. 
I Pint of Water. 
Select nice, fresh breast and shoul- 
der of lamb. Have the butcher re- 
move all the bones; wash or wipe 
carefully with a damp towel. Take 
one cup of bread crumbs, which have 
been wet and squeezed, and season 
well with one grated onion and clove 
of garlic, and chopped parsley, thyme- 
and bay leaf, and spices to taste, 
put in a frying pan. with one table- 
Bpootiiui ol Butter, ^.nd fry about five- 



101 



minutes. Place this dressing into the 
open side ot the lamb, and roll it up 
in its own meat, and tie it securely 
with thin strips of twine that the 
fi— 'ssinsT may not escape in baking. 
Slice the carrot, onion and turnip 
»e.y nne, and fry in a tablespoon- 
ful of butter in a deep pan. When 
brown, add the lamb and cover and 
let it simmer for about fifteen min- 
utes. Then add the tomatoes and 
let them brown; then add just enough 
boiling water to cover the meat (one 
pint); set the pot back on the stove 
and let it simmer gently and stead- 
ily for about three hours, or accord- 
ing to the size of the roll. Serve 
with the vegetables dished around 
and with its' own gravy. 

Minced Lnmb. 

Agneau £minc6. 

2 Pounds of Cold Minced Lamb. 

^ Can of Mushrooms. 

4 Ounces of Butter. % Pint ot Veal Stock. 

IVi Gills ot Cream. Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

Place the butter in a frying pan; 
add one chopped onion and brown 
slightly; add the mushrooms, and 
season to taste. Then add the half 
pint ot veal broth, if you have it; 
it not, boiling water or milk, and let 
it simmer a few minutes; thicken 
with a tablespoonful of blended flour; 
add the minced lamb and a gill and 
a half of cream; let all simmer, 
stirring constantly; and when done, 
which will be in about ten minutes, 
take off the fire; add the yolks of 
two eggs, beaten, and stir constant- 
ly. Place in a hot dish, garnish with 
Crodtons (buttered) -and serve. This 
is a very nice breakfast dish from 
the left-over lamu. 

lCpl£n^niu of Lininb. 
Epigramme d'Agneau. 

2 Breasts of Lamb. 
1. Tablespoonful ot Salt. 
1 Teaspoonful ot Pepper. 

3 Tablfspoontnls of Hatter or Olire Oil. 
Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Take two breasts of Damb; tie 
them and put them to boil in soup 
stock for forty-five minutes. Then 
drain wfll and extract all the bones. 
.Press ihcm down with a heavy 
weight on top. When thoroughly 
cold, cut each breast into three tri- 
angular-shaped pieces, dip them in 
oliveL oil, or melted lard, or butter, 
and season with the salt and pepper. 
Roll each piece in fresh bread crumbs 
grated, and broil on a slow fire, al- 
lowing four minutes to each side. 
Serve with a pint of hot Macedoine 
or any garnish that may be desired, 
arranging the breast over the gar- 
nish. The epigram may be served 
a la Soubise with a hot Soubise 
sauce, or a la Chicoree with a hot 
chicory sauce, or a, la Louisianaise 
with a hot Madeira wine sauce, and 
garnish of fried sweet potatoes. 



Lnsnb en Blanquette. 

Blanquette d'Agneau. 

3 Pounds of Brisket of Lamb. 

1 Onion. 2 Carrots. 

^ Dozen Cloves. 1 Leek. 

1 Bouquet of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 
% Pound of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 

The Yolka of 2 Eggs. 
% Can of Mushrooms or Green Peas. 

The brisket of the lamb is best 
for this dish. Cut into pieces of two 
square inches. Put in a stew pot and 
cover with a half gallon of water, 
and add salt and pepper and two 
onions and one carrot, chopped fine. 
Let it boil till very tender. When it 
reaches this stage, take the meat out 
of the saucepan and keep the water 
in which it was boilea. Take anoth- 
er saucepan and put a tablespoonful 
of butter in it. and as it melts add 
a tablespoonful of flotir. Let it 
brown lightly, and add one i"nt of 
the water ,in which the, veal was 
broiled. Stir well, inakmg it very 
light, and not thick. Add one-half 
can of mushrooms, and iet the whole 
boil about fifteen minutes, so as to 
be very light. 'I'hen put in the veal, 
v,-hich is already cooked. Let it 
simmer for about fifteen minutes 
longer, and tal.-e off the fire and add 
the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, 
two tablespoonfuls of the gravy, and 
the juice of one lemon. Serve hot. 

Lamb's Brains, 

Cervelles d'Agneau. 

The recipes given for the prepara- 
tion of Sheep Brains may be fol- 
Jowed in cooking Lamb's Brains. 
Lamb Brains are a very delicate dish. 
The following recipe, Lamb's Brains 
a la Remoulade, however, is a fa- 
mous Creole dish: 

Lamb's Brains ft la Remoulade. 
Cervelles d'Agneau a la Remoulade. 

Lamb's Brains. 1 Pint of White Wine. 

2 Quarts of Water. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 

The Yolks of i Egss. 

2 Siallots. 1 Herb Bouquet. 6 Capers. 

3 Small Vinegar Pickles. 

1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 

4 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

4 Tablespoonfuls ot Vinegar. 

1 Tablespoonful of Creole Mustard. 
% Tablespoonful of Chives. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Plunge the Lamb's Brains into cold 
water and let them stand for an hour, 
changing the water several times. 
Prepare in exactly the same manner 
indicated for the preparation of 
Bheep Brains. After removing from 
the water and taking off the skin, 
drain of all water. Have ready a 
saucepan of boiling water and sea- 
son it with salt and pepper and an 
herb bouquet of parsley, bay leaves 
and thyme. When the herbs begin 
to boil add a pint of white wine to 
the water, as it boils up again -^rop 



102 



in the brains and let them cook for 
ten minutes. Remove the herb bou- 
quet and strain the brains through 
a sieve. 

Place on a hot dish and serve with 
the foUcwing sauce: Chop the shal- 
lots very fine, mince the ga,rlic and 
mash the yolks of the eggs. Put the 
vinegar into a small saucepan and 
add the shallots, the garlic and let 
all boil till the vinegar is reduced 
about one-half. Then mash the yolks 
of eggs in the sweet oil and cut up 
the capers and add all to the vin- 
egar. Add the parsley and the vin- 
egar pickles chopped fine and let 
all come to a boil. Then add the 
chives and two teaspoonfuls of Cre- 
ole mustard. Mix well and pour all 
over the brains and send to the table 
very hot. 

liamb's Feet. 

Pieds d'Agneau. 

The various delightful ways that 
the Creoles have of serving Mutton 
Feet may be used in preparing 
Lamb's Feet, the latter especially 
making many delightful and rficher- 
chg entrees. We have "Pieds d'Ag- 
neau a, la Poulette," etc. ("See re- 
cipe for cooking Mutton Peet, "Pieds 
d'Agneau au Blanc," "Pieds d'Agneau 
a. la Bourgeoise," etc.) 

Lamb's Feet, Wliite Sauce. 

Pieds d'Agneau, Sauce Blanche. 

12 Lamb's Feet. 

1 Pint of Broth. Tbe Juice of 1 Lemon. 

The Yolk of 1 Egg. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Clean the feet well, and, after boil- 
ing, take out all the bones, cut in 
little pieces of about two inches or 
less, season nicely and cook in a pint 
of their own water over a slow fire. 
Add the juice of a lemon, and then 
throw in the beaten yolk of an egg 
to bind nicely, and serve hot. 

Lamb's Feet & la Bourgeoise. 

Pieds d'Agneau a, la Bourgeoise. 

12 Lamb's Peet. 1 Pint of Broth. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablcspoouful of Flour. 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Clean the feet well and boil in th§ 
manner above indicated. When the 
water is reduced, take out the feet. 



cut in pieces, taking out all the 
bones. Put back in the saucepan, 
add a tablespoonful of butter blend- 
ed well with a tablespoonful of flour. 
Stir well and add two sprigs of 
parsley, minced very fine, and the 
juice of one lemon. Let this sim- 
mer for ten minutes longer and serve 
hot. 

Broiled liamb Kidneys. 

Eognons d'Agneau Grillfies. 

6 Kidneys. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley to GarniBh. 

Prepare in exactly the same man- 
ner as in the recipe for broiling 
Sheep Kidneys, and serve with melt- 
ed butter and lemon juice and 
chopped parsley, thrown over. In 
all these recipes, where the skewer 
is used in broiling to keep the kid- 
neys from separating, the skewer 
must be drawn out before butter- 
ing and serving. 

SteTred Lamb Tongrues. 

Langues d'Agneau Sautfees. 

6 Tongues. 1 Onion. 

% of a Small Carrot, Cut Fine. 

% of a Small Turnip. Cut Fine. 

1 Pint of Broth or Water. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Bay Leaf. 2 Sprigs of Thyme anrl Panley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean the tongues; wash well and 
boil in clear water for an hour and 
a half. Then throw them into cold 
water and remove the skins. Cut the 
vegetables fine, and put them with 
the butter into a saucepan. Add a 
pint of broth or water, and then add 
the finely-minced herbs. Add the 
tongues and let them simmer gently 
for two hours. Serve hot, with the 
gravy poured over. 

Lamb Tongrnes Wltb Tomato Snnce. 

Langues d'Agneau a. la Sauce Tomate. 

e Tongues. 1 Onion. 

1 Pint of Broth or Water. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Bay Leaf. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 
2 Sprigs .of Thyme. 
A Tomato Sauce. 

Cook the tongues as in the recipe 
given above, omitting, of course, the 
vegetables. When done, place the 
tongues on a hot dish, pour over a 
rich Tomato Sauce (see recipe) and 
serve. 



CPIAPTER XV. 



PORK. 



Du Uochon. 



The old Creoles, like their French 
ancestors, hold that every portion 
of the hog is good, from the head to 
the feet, and all portions are util- 
ized in the various dishes which are 
so delightfully prepared in New Or- 
leans. For roasting, the Creoles al- 
ways use the delicate "Cochon de 
Lait," or sucking pig, of not more 
nor less than four or five weeks old, 
when the pig is roasted whole; other- 
wise the best parts of the grown hog 
for roasting are the loin and the leg. 
Pork chops or cutlets are taken 
from the loin. Tliey are used as 
entries, as are also slices of cold 
ham; the kidneys, cooked in wine, 
and the tails braisfies, or smoth- 
ered. 

Pork must always be cooked well 
done, or else it w^ill be dangerous, 
unwholesome and Indigesible. It 
must .be roasted or fried. The Cre- 
oles will never eat a broiled pork 
chop. 



Roast liOln of Pork. 

Longe de Pore Rotie. 

A Loin of Pork. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Parsley to Garnish. Apple Sauce. 

Score the loin in close lines across 
and down. The lines should be about 
a half inch apart. Dredge ■well with 
salt and pepper and place In the 
oven, letting it cook slowly and 
long, allowing at least twenty-five 
minutes to every pound, and basting 
every five minutes for the first half 
hour and every ten minutes thereaf- 
ter. Pork must always be well done. 
When cooked thoroughly, take out 
of the baking pan, put in a hot serv- 
ing dish, and garnish nicely with 
parsley. Serve with Apple Sauce and 
a little horseradish. (See recipe 
"Sauces for Meats," etc.) 



Roust Fork, 

Pore Roti. 

The leg and shoulder may bs 
roasted in the same manner as the 
loin, allowing from twenty to twenty- 
five minutes to a pound in cooking. 



Roast Fig Stuffed. 

Cochon de Lait Roti et Farcl. 

1 Pig, Four or Five WeeliS Old. 

3 Large Onions. 2 Cups of Btead Crumbs, 

3 Sprigs of- Cliopp.ed Paisley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

2 Ounces of 'Butter. 

2 Teaspoonfuls of Powdered Sage. 

3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 
1 Herb Bouquet, 

In New Orleans the pig is always 
sold killed and cleaned by the butch- 
er. Wash the young pig well, clean- 
ing again, and scraping thorouglily 
and taking out all remaining hair 
from the ears and nostrils. Wasli 
again thoroughly in cold water, in- 
side and out, shaking the pig vig- 
orously, head downward. Then turn 
upwards and pour cold water over 
it. Wipe dry inside and out with a 
coarse towel, and then rub well in- 
side with salt and pepper and minced 
parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Pre- 
pare a dressing as follows: Wet tlie 
bread crumbs and squeeze thorough- 
ly. Then add the sprigs of minced 
parsley and hard-boiled eggs and the 
powdered sage. Mix •well. Season 
all highly with black pepper and salt 
using about a teaspoonful of salt 
and a half teaspoonful of black pep- 
per. Place two ounces of butter, 
which will be equal to two table- 
spoonfuls, in a frying pan on the 
stove, and, when it melts, add the 
minced onions. Let them brown, and 
then add the dressing, stirring well, 
and letting it fry for five minutes. 
Take off and stuff the pig and sew 
up the ' opening. Truss the fore 
legs forward and the hind feet for- 
ward, and close under the body. Wipe 
the pig carefully with a damp towel, 
and then place a corn cob in its 
mouth to keep it open. Rub the 
pig all over the outside with butter, 
dredging lightly with salt and pep- 
per. Place in a modreate oven, and 
bake steadily for two and a half 
or three hours, according to size and 
age. Baste frequently, and, when 
half done, rub again with butter un- 
til the pan Is saturated. Continue 
basting at intervals. When done, 
take out of the oven and place on a 
hot dish. Garnish the dish with 
parsley. Take the corncob out of 



104 



the mouth and place instead a nice, 
rosy apple. Serve very hot, with 
Apple Sauce. (See recipe "Sauces 
for Meats," etc.) 

Sweet potatoes are a nice vege- 
table to serve with roast pig. Boil 
a half dozen first and then peel care- 
fully and place them whole, about 
fifteen minutes before serving the 
pig in- the pan where it is roasting; 
let them soak in the gravy, brown 
nicely and serve on a separate plat- 
ter or as a. garnish. 

Roast Spare Ribs, 

Cotelettes de Pore Roti. 

Spare Ribs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A GaiElsh of Parsley and Radish. 

Dredge the spare ribs lightly with 
salt and pepper, after having washed 
well and wiped dry with a coarse 
towel. Place them in the baking pan 
and dredge with butter; place them 
in the oven and cover with a piece 
of buttered paper. Allow twenty 
minutes to every pound in cooking. 
About twenty minutes before serving 
take oft the buttered paper, dredge 
again, with melted butter, and let 
it brown nicely. Serve with a gar- 
nish of parsley and radishes. 

If it is desired to stuff the spare 
ribs, have the ribs cracked, cross- 
wise, the entire length, in two places. 
Put a stuffing, as for roast pig, in 
the center, or a stuffing made of 
mashed potatoes and three hard- 
boiled eggs, mixed thoroughly. Close 
the ends of the ribs over this, tie 
we-11 and roast as for a roast pig. 
Serve with an Apple Sauce or a 
Sauce Piquante. (See recipes "Sauc- 
es for Meats," etc.) 

Fork Tenderloins. 

Filet de Pore Sautfi. 

4 Pork Tenderloins. 
A Tableapoonful of Lard. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Have the tenderloins cut thin and 
split lengthwise without separating 
Season well with salt and pepper. 
Have ready a very hot frying pan, 
place a tablespoonful of butter or 
lard within and add the tenderloin. 
Turn every two minutes, not leaving 
them very long on either side at a 
time. Be careful to cook through 
and through, smothering over a low 
fire, and serve with Apple Sauce or 
Currant Jelly. (See recipes "Sauces 
for Meats," etc.) 

Fried Pork Cbops. 

.Cotelettes de Cochon a, la Poele. 

6 or 8 Pork Chop*. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the pork chops and season 

well with salt and pepper. Roll In 

grated bread crumbs and fry In boil- 



ing lard twenty-five minutes. This 
will be when they have reached a 
rich brown. Take out. place on a 
platter and serve with pickles or a 
Sauce aux Cornichons. (See recipe.) 
pigs' Feet. 
Pieds de Cochon. 

6 Pigs Feet. 2 Bay Leaves. 

3 Blades of Mace.' 1 Dozen Whole Clores. 

1 Whole Red Pepper Pod. 

1 Pint o£ Good Cider Vinegar. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Select young and tender pigs' feet. 
Clean and scrape well and soak In 
cold water several hours. Split and 
crack the feet in several places; put 
them in a stewpot; cover with cold 
water and let them simmer until 
tender. When done, lay in a crock. 
Boil the vinegar, mace, cloves and 
bay leaves and pepper pod together 
a few minutes. Season the feet with 
salt and pepper, and pour the spiced 
vinegar over while boiling hot. (3over 
the crock and set to cool. The feet 
will be ready for use in twenty-four 
hours. 

Pigs' Feet, Sauce Robert. 

Pieds de Cochon a. la Sauce Robert 

3 Pigs' Feet. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Olive OH. 

1 Tablespoonful of Salt. 

% Tablespoonful of Pepper. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. % Pint of Sauce Robert. 

Boil three good-sized Pigs' Feet In 

a salted water, and when tender, 

take out of the water and drain 

thoroughly. Split the feet in two 

and place in a dish and season well 

with salt and pepper. Then rub them 

with the olive oil or butter; roll the 

feet in grated bread crumbs and put 

them to broil, allowing four minutes 

to each side of the feet. Prepare a 

hot Sauce A, la Robert (see recipe), 

and pour this sauce in a warm dish. 

Lay the feet nicely over It and send 

to the table hot. 

Pigs' Feet, Plqnant Sance. 

Pieds de Cochon k la Sauce Piquante. 

Prepare In exactly the manner di- 
rected above, and, after broiling the 
feet, serve with a half pint of Sauce 
Piquante. (See recipe.) 

Pigs' Feet, Tomato Sance. 
Pieds de Cochon a, la Sauce Tomate. 

Boil and prepare the feet as in re- 
cipe for "Pigs' Feet, Sauce Robert" 
and serve with a half pint of hot To-, 
mato Sauce. 

Pig's Feet, Tartar Sance. 

Pieds de Cochon a, la Sauce Tartare. 
Prepare the feet as Indicated in 
the recipe for "Pig's Feet, Sauce Rob- 
ert," and serve with a half pint of 
Sauce a. la Tartare. (See recipe.) 



105 



Pig's Feet, St. Hubert Style. 

Pieds de Coohon a 1* St. Hubert. 

Prepare the feet as in the recipe for 
"Pig's Feet, Sauce Robert," and serve 
with a half pint of hot Piquant 
Sauce, to which has been added a 
teaspoonful of Creole mustard, di- 
luted. 

Stuffed Pig'fsi Feet & la Perlgueux. 

. . Fieds de Coclion ft la Perlgueux. . . 

3 Pigs' Feet. 2 Minced Truffles. 

% Glass of iladeii-a Wine. 

.1 Pound of Bonea Tuiiey Forcemeat. 

6 Pieces o£ Crepinette. 

1 Egg. 2 Ounces of Butter. 

Va Pint of Hot Pedgueux Sauce. 

Boil the Pig's Feet, and then split 
them in two; take out the boneg, 
lay the flesh on a dry, clean cloth 
and wipe well. Make a forcemeat 
of boned turkey (see recipe under 
chapter Stuffings for Fowls, etc.); 
add the truffles, which have been 
finely minced, and a half glass of 
Madeira or Sherry "Wine. Mix this 
well together. Crepinette is applied 
to a skin found in the stomach of 
the pig. Take six pieces of this cre- 
pinette, which you will have secured 
from the butcher; cut them the size 
of a man's hand and lay on a clean 
biscuit board; place on each piece 
of skin a portion of the forcemeat 
about the size of a hen's egg and 
flatten out well. Place one-half of 
a pig's foot on top of this farcie, 
and cover with another layer of the 
stufl^ng. On either side lay three thin 
slices of truffles. Wrap the- cre- 
pinettes up in some fanciful shape, 
such as an envelope or card case, and 
dip them separately in a well-beaten 
egg, and then in grated bread- 
crumbs. Put two tablespbonfuls of 
butter In a saucepan or deep frying 
pan, cover closely, and let the feet 
cook on a slow fire for twenty-flve 
minutes, allowing twelve minutes and 
a half to each side. Serve with a 
pint of hot Perigueux Sauce. (See 
recipe.) Place the sauce in a dish 
lay the feet neatly over it and send 
to the table hot. 

Stuffed Pig's Feet, Madeira Sauce. 

Pieds de Cochon a. la Sauce MadSre. 

Prepare the feet in exactly the 
same manner as indicated in the re- 
cipe given above, and serve with a 
pint of hot Madeira Sauce, Instead 
of the Sauce Perigueux. 

Hogshead Cheese, 

Fromage de Cochon. 

1 Hog's Hetfd. 1 Lemon. 

1 Glass of Slierry or Madeira. 2 Onions. 

1 Slice of Ham. 

Thyme, Bay Leaf, Spices. 

Boil the whole of the hog's head, I 



which has been well cleaned and 
scraped. Add four teaspoonfuls of 
salt, and a lemon cut Jn half. After 
four hours, when the head will have 
become very tender, take out of the 
water and set to cool. Then skin 
the meat, from the head. Preserve 
the water'in which it has been boiled. 
Cut up the entire head, ears and 
tongue and two of the feet, if you 
have boiled them, too, into pieces of 
about one inch in length. Take two 
large onions and chop them very fine. 
Put a tablespoonful of lard and the 
onions into a pot. Don't let them 
brown, but slightly smother. Season 
well with minced thyme, three mashed 
cloves, a dash of red pepper (Poivre 
Rouge). Add a teaspoonful of water 
taken from the reserve in which the 
head was boiled. Let this simmer 
gently; then add one pint of the wa- 
ter, the peel of a large lemon, cut 
fine, and one glass of Sherry or Ma- 
deira. Add hot pepper to taste, sea- 
soning highly. Boil well. Then add 
the head and a slice of ham, cut into 
pieces of about one inch long and a 
half inch wide. Season to taste, and 
add five powdered allspice, one blade 
of chopped mace and three mashed 
cloves. Let it boil for a half hour 
longer, till it comes to the right con- 
sistency. When cooked, fill a bowl 
with the cheese and put a close-fit- 
ting dish pn top, and then place 
a piece of plank over this and set 
£t big weight of about fifteen pounds 
or three or four flatirons on top. 
When the cheese cbols, which will 
be in about five or six hours, turn 
out of the bowl. It will have taken 
the shape of the bowl and become 
a fine head of cheese^ ready to be 
served. This is the Creole's way of 
making hogshead cheese, and It can- 
not be improved upon. 
Salt Meat. 
Viande SalSe. 
Salt pork enters so largely into 
cooking that it will be unnecessary 
to devote special attention to it here. 
It is used in cooking cabbage in 
pork and beans' — a most excellent 
dish for children — and with nearly 
all green herbs and vegetables it 
serves as a delightful flavor. In the 
the chapter on vegetables, wherever 
it is advisable to use salt or pickled 
pork, this subject will be treated. 

Pickled Pork. 

Petit Sale. 

Coarse Salt Sufficient to malse a Brine. 

12 Bay Leaves. 2 Dozen Onions. 

23 Pounds of Pork. 1 Ounce of Saltpetre. 

12, Cloves. 6 Allspice. 

Pork should be pickled about 

twenty hours after killing. It is 

pickled always in sufficient quantity 

to last for some time, for, if proper 



106 



care is taken, it will keep one year 
after pickling; but it may also be 
pickled in smaller quantities, of three 
or four pounds at a time, reducing 
other ingredients in the recipe ac- 
cording to quantity of pork used. 
To twenty-five pounds of pork, allow 
one ounce of saltpetre. Pulverize 
thoroughly and mix with a sufficient 
quantity of salt to thoroughly salt 
the pork. Cut the pork into pieces 
of about two pounds, and slash each 
piece through the skin, and then rub 
thoroughly with the salt and salt- 
petre mixture till the meat is thor- 
oughly penetrated through and 
through. Mash the cloves very fine 
and ground the allspice. Chop the 
onions. Take a small barrel and 
place at the bottom a layer of salt, 
then a layer of coarsely chopped on- 
ions, and sprinkle over this a layer 
of the spices and minced bay leaves. 
Place on this a layer of the pork; 
pack tightly; then place above this 
a layer of the salt and seasonings 
and continue with alternate layers 
of pork and seasonings till all the 
pork is used up. Conclude with a 
layer of the minced herbs and spices 
and have a layer of salt on top. 
Cover the preparation with a board 
on which a heavy weight must be 
placed to press down the meat. It 
will be ready for use in about ten or 
twelve days. 

HAM. 
jambon. 

Ham is one of the most useful ar- 
ticles of supply that can be kept in 
any household. The Creoles gene- 
rally keep a nicely boiled ham on 
hand. In case of unexpected com- 
pany for lunch or supper, the ham 
is always ready and sure to be ap- 
petizing. It forms combinations in 
many dishes, and is in itself a de- 
lightful breakfast dish and dinner 
entree. 

Boiled Ham. 
Jambon Bouilli. 

A Ham. 2 Blades of Mace. 

1 Dozen Cloves. 4 Bay Leaves. 

Black Pepper and Paisley to Garnish. 

Wash the ham well in cold water, 
scraping oft all portions of mold or 
salt. Have a large boiler of water 
on the stove; or, better still, the 
furnace. Throw in two blades of 
mace, a dozen cloves and three or 
four bay leaves. Put the ham in 
the water and let the fire be slow. 
allowing the water to heat gradu- 
ally. Do not permit it to come to a 
good boil for two hours at least, and 
be careful to skim carefully, so that 
all rejected substances may not im- 
pregnate the ham. Keep it simmer- 
ing gently, allowing twenty minutes 
to every pound. When done, let the 



ham cool in its own liquor, and then 
put the ham on a board, cover with 
another board, and lay a weight over. 
Leave under weight several hours. 
This will enable you to cut the ham 
in thin slices after removing the 
weight. Then carefully remove the 
skin without taking off the fat. 
Sprinkle it in patches with black 
pepper and ornament the shank bone 
with quilled paper, or a paper frill. 
Serve it cold with a garnish of par- 
sley. Cold boiled ham should be 
sliced very thin and served with 
pickles and mustard. 

Fried Hnm. 

Jambon Frit. 

8 Thin Slices of Ham. 

Pepper to Taste. 

Parsley to Garnish. 

Slice the ham thin. Heat the fry- 
ing pan very hot. Lay in the ham 
in its own fat and fry over a quick 
fire. The Creoles serve eggs nicely 
fried, with ham. Allow an egg to 
every slice of ham. After taking 
the ham out of the pan, drop in the 
eggs. If you do not like eggs fried 
on both sides (many prefer them so), 
baste the eggs with the hot grease, 
and be sure to cook the yolks whole. 
When they are well set, without be- 
ing hard, take the eggs out and lay 
one on each slice of ham. Garnish 
with parsley. Sprinkle the eggs 
with salt and pepper very lightly and 
serve. This is a very popular Creole 
brealkfast dish. 

If eggs are not served with the 
fried ham, and a gravy is desired, 
malce one as follows: Take one ta- 
bleSpoonful of flour and add to the 
remaining fat in the pan. Mix weil 
until smooth. Add a half pint Of 
milk and stir until it boils; throw in 
a dash of black pepper, pour over 
the ham and send to the table hot. 

Broiled Ham. 

Jambon Grille. 
6 or 8 Thin Slices of Boiled Ham. 
6 or 8 Slices of Buttered Toast. 
Always use boiled hata for broiling. 
Slice it about a half inch thick, ac- 
cording to the number to be served, 
and trim off the rough edges. Have 
the broiler very hot, lay the slices of 
ham upon it and brown well. Serve 
with buttered toast. 

Broiled Ham With Cnenmber Gar- 
nisli. 

Jambon Grille aux Concombres. 

G or 8 Slices of Boiled Ham. 

Pepper. Cucumbers. 

Cut thin as many slices of ham as 

desired and broil evenly over hot 

coals. When well brown butter, add 

pepper, sprinkling, and serve with 

slices of cucumber that have been 



107 



steeped in salted vinegar several 
hours ranged around it. 

Ham Croquettes. 

Croquettes de Jambon. 

2 Cups of Finely Chopped Boiled Bam. 

2 Cups ot Mashed Potatoes. 

The Yolks ot 3 Eggs. 
2 Tahlespoonfuls of Cream. 
2 Tablespoonfula of Butter. 
A Dash of Cayenne. 
Chop the ham fine and add to the 
mashed potatoes. Then add the 
cream and butter and the yolks of 
two eggs, beaten well. Beat all to- 
gether until smooth, then add a dash 
of Cayenne. Mold the ham Into cyl- 
inder shapes of about a finger in 
length and roll in the beaten egs? 
that remains. Then roll In bread 
crumbs grated and fry In the boiling 
fat. 

Ham puffs are made in the same 
way, only the potatoes are omitted, 
and a stiff batter is used instead, 
made of one pint of flour and one of 
water, three eggs and four ounces of 
finely chopped ham. The ham is 
placed in the batter and fried In 
boiling lard to a golden brown. 

Ham SonHie. 

SoufSe de Jambon. 

1 Cup ot Minced Ham. 

3 -Eggs, Beaten With he Whites and Tolks 

Separate. 

1 Teaspoonful of Finely Chopped Parsley. 

Pepper to Taste. 
Mix together the chopped parsley, 
ham and yolks of eggs and a dash of 
Cayenne pepper. Beat all very hard 
till it becomes light. Then add the 
whites of the eggs, which have been 
beaten to a froth. Beat together 
sufficiently to mix well. Pill a dish 
and bake in an oven for eight or ten 
minutes and serve with a Cream 
Sauce. (See recipe.) 

Boiled Bacon. 

Petit Sale BoullU. 
Proceed in e?cactly the same man- 
ner as for boiled ham. 

Filed Bacon. 

Petit Sale Frit. 

Cut into very thin slices, put In 
the frying pan and fry to a nice 
golden brown. This is a fine break- 
fast dish. 

Creole Sansage. 
Saucisses a la Crgole. 

It has been said by visitors to New 
Orleans that the Creoles excell all 
other cooks in preparing appetizing 
sausages.. From the old Creole ne- 
gresses, who go about the streets in 
the early morning crying out "Belles 
Saucisses!" "Belle Chaurice!" to the 



"Boudins" and "Saucissons" so tempt- 
ingly prepared by the Creole butchers 
in the French Market, the Creole sau- 
sage enters largely into domestic 
cookery and forms a delightful flav- 
or for many dainty dishes, especially 
of the vegetable order, while in the 
preparation of the famous "Jamba- 
laya," the "Chaurice," is one of the 
most necessary and indispensible in- 
gredients. Though sausages of any 
of these varieties may be bought in 
the French Market and other stalls 
daily, many of the ancient house- 
wives and cooks prefer to prepare 
their own sausages, and the follow- 
ing are the carefully compiled re- 
cipes. 

In making sausage, the Creole 
housewife generally prepares a suf- 
ficient Quantity to last several days. 

Chaurice. 

i Pounds of Lean, Fresh Pork. 

2 Pounds of Fat Fresh Pork. 
-2 Large Onions, Minced Very Fine. 
1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 

1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper and Chill 

Pepper (very hot.) 

1 Teaspoonful of Red Pepper. 

3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt. 

2 Teaspoonfuls Finely Ground Black Pepper. 

1 Sprig of Thyme, Well Minced. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley, Finely Minced. 

2 Bay Leaves, Chopped or Minced Very Fine. 

% Teaspoonful of iiUsplce, Very Fine. 

Hash the pork as fine as possible — 
fat and lean — and mix together. 
. Then season highly With the salt and 
black pepper and Cayenne, Chili and 
red pepper (pimento). This high 
seasoning distinguishes the Creole 
sausage from all others. Chaurice 
must be seasoned very hot, so do not 
fear to have too much red pepper. 
Mince the onion and garlic as fine as 
possible, then add to the Chaurice. 
Mince the herbs as fine as possible, 
and add, and then mix the finely 
ground spices thoroughly with the 
Chaurice. Hash all together, and 
when well mixed, take the casings 
(the Creoles always use the entrails 
of the sheep for this purpose) that 
have been well cleaned by the butch- 
er. Scald them and wash thorough- 
ly again. Dry them and fill with the 
mixture, tying them In the lengths 
you desire. 

Chaurice Is fried In boiling lard 
for breakfast, always having suf- 
ficient to have the sausage swim in 
It, and served, after draining of all 
grease, on a hot dish with minced 
parsley thrown over as a garnish. 
It is used most extensively in making 
"Jambalaya," and a few Chaurice 
thrown into the pot of boiling cab- 
bage or beans add greatly to the 
flavor. This is a distinctive Creole 
sausage and the very nicest and most 
highly flavored that can be eaten. 



108 



Cbiinrice With Purfie of Potatoes. 

Chaurice a. la Purfie de Pomines de 

Terre. 

2 Pounds of Chaurice. 

4 Irish Potatoes. 1 Egg, Well Beaten. 

Prick the sausages and lay them 

in the bottom of a pan. Make a soft 

Puree of Potatoes (see recipe) and 

pour this over the sausage. Then 

spread a beaten egg very evenly on 

top, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and 

place in the oven and let it bake a 

half hour. This is a nice breakfast 

or luncheon dish. 

Cliaurlce With Creole Sauce. 

Chaurice, Sauce &, la CrSole. 

2 Pounds of Chaurice (about 6 to a pound.) 

1 Clove of Minced Garlic. 

% Can of tomatoes. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt, 

1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 

1 Large Onion. ^2 Spoon of Lard. 
Place a half teaspoonful of lard 

in the frying pan or stewpan, and 
when it heats, add the chopped on- 
ion. Let this brown slightly and tlien 
add the minced garlic. Then add the 
half can of tomatoes. As this 
/browns, put in the sausage which 
you have pricked gently. Cover and 
let them simmer for about five min- 
utes, then add the seasonings to 
taste. Add about a half cup of boil- 
ing water. Cover well and let all 
simmer for twenty minutes longer. 
This is very nice for breakfast. 

Saucisses. 

Saucisses, unlike Chaurice, are 
made from pork and beef mixed. 
Take ■" 

2 Pounds of Lean Beef. 

2 Pounds of Lean Pork. 

1 Pound of Lean Veal. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. 

2 Large Onions Minced Very Fine. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 

1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. 

1 Tablespoonful Black Pepper. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. 

3 Bay Leaves, Minced Very Fine. 

% Spoon Each of Ground Cloves, Mace, 

Allspice and Grated Nutmeg. 
1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and 

Sweet Marjoram. 
Chop and hash the meat (fat and 
lean) very fine, mincing it, and then 
season highly with salt and pepper 
and Cayenne, mixing well. Add the 
minced onion and garlic, mix well, 
and then add the finely minced herbs 
and spices. Mix thoroughly and fill 
the casings which you have gotten 
from the butcher and washed again 
thoroughly. Fill them with the mix- 
ture, in lengths of about two feet 
or one foot and a half, stufHng tight- 
Ij'. Tie at both ends and let ' them 
stand overnight In a deep brine. It 
used for breakfast, take out as much 
as desired, wipe dry and cut into 
slices aT'd fry, or fry the sausage, 
the whole length. In boiling lard, and 



then slice nicely. Garnish with 
chopped parsley and serve. 

Saaclssona. 

Sauoissons are sausage made from 
the lean, fine flesh of the pork and 
the lilet of beef. Take 

2 Pounds of Fresh Pork, Very Lean. 

1 Pound of Fat. 

2 Pounds of Filet of Beef. 1 Large Onloa. 

1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. 

1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 

3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt. 

1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine. 

Vi, Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice, 

Cloves, and ^ Nutmeg. 

% Teaspoonful Each of Fine Herbs. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 

Mince and hash the meat very fine, 
mixing the beef and pork and fat. 
Then season highly with the Cayenne, 
salt and pepper, mixing thoroughly. 
Season next with the minced onion 
and garlic; mix well, and then with 
the minced herbs and spices, mixing 
all thoroughly. Fill the casings, 
which are never very large for Sau- 
oissons. Tie them in sausages of 
about a finger in length, or three 
inches, and they are ready to be 
cooked. Saucissons are always fried 
in boiling lard' and served whole, 
placing several on each plate. 

Boudlns, 

Boudins are blood sausages and are 
much affected by the Creoles. Take 

1 Pound of Hog or Beef Blood (1 pint.) 

1^ Pound of Hog Fat. 2 Onions. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Season Hlglily. 

% Clove of Garlic. 

Mince the onions fine and fry them 
slightly in a small piece of the hog 
fat. Add the minced garlic. Hash 
and mince the remaining fat very 
fine, and mix it thoroughly with the 
beef blood. Mix the onions, and then 
season highly, adding of allspice, 
mace, clove and nutmeg a half tea- 
spoonful each, finely ground, and a 
half teaspoonful each of fine herbs. 
When all mixed, take the prepared 
casings or entrails and fill with the 
mixture, being careful to tie the sau- 
sage casing at the further end be- 
fore attempting to fill. Then tie the 
other end, making the sausage into 
strings of about two feet. Wash them 
thoroughly on the outside after fill- 
ing, and then tie again In spaces of 
three inches or less in length, 
being careful not to make too long. 
Place them to cook in a pot of tepid 
water, never letting them boil, as 
that would curdle the blood. Let 
them remain on the slow fire till you 
can pick the sausage with a needle 
and no blood will exude. Then take 
them out, let them dry and cool. 

Boudins are always fried in boil- 
ing lard. Some broil them, however. 



109 



Bondln Ulunc. 

1 Pound of the White Meat of Fowl 
(left over.) 

1 Pound of Lean Pork. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. 

1 Pint of Cream. 

W Cup of Soft of Bread. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

Vi Teaspoon of Ground Spices. 

Va CloTe of Garlic. 

1 Onion. 1 Teaspoonful Caj-enne. 

Salt and Pepper, 1 Teaspoonful Each. 

Cut the meat and mince. Season 
highly with the salt and pepper and 
Cayenne. Add the minced onion ami 
garlic. Mix well with half a cup of 
the soft of bread, wet and squeezed 
well. Cook all for about fifteen 
minutes in one pint of cream. When 
reduced take off the stove, add the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, stir well 
and cool. Pill the prepared entrails 
and tie either end, and place them 
In a pot containi'ng half milk and 
half water. Boil them for about 
twenty minutes and then prick gent- 
ly, place in buttered papers and broil 
gently. The left-over of rabbit, 
chicken, turkey, partridge and other 
birds may be prepared in this man- 
ner, as also the left-over of craw- 
fish or crabs. This is a, Creole hors 
d'oeuvre. 

Chitterlings. 

Andouilles. 

2 Pounds of Fat Port. 2 Pounds of Lean Pork 

1 Pound of Inner Lining of Stomach of Hog. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 2 Large 

Onions. 

1 Tablespoonful Each of Salt and Pepper. 

1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne. 1 Teaspoonful of 

Chill Pepper. 



Ml Teaspoonful Each of llace, Cloves and 

Allspice, ground flue. 

1 Tablespoonful Each of Minced Tkyme, 

Sweet Marjoram and Parsley. 

Select, the largest intestines of the 
hog, wash clean, disgorge and thor- 
oughly cleanse, and let soak for twen- 
ty four hours in fresh water, chang- 
ing the water frequently. Then 
drain and dry well. Cut them into 
threadlike pieces of about one inch 
in length, and hash the pork, lean 
and fat, together; mix thoroughly 
with the threads of intestines or In- 
ner stomach of the hog, and season 
highly with the salt, pepper and Ca- 
yenne and Chili pepper. Mince the 
onion and garlic and herbs as fine as 
possible and add to the meat. Add 
the ground spices, and mix and hash 
all together very fine. Take six or 
eight of the largs Intestines that 
have been thoroughly soaked and dis- 
gorged and fill these casings with 
the preparation, after scalding and 
drying the casings ^thoroughly. Tie 
into the desired lengths and use as 
desired. This is a very fat sausage 
and entirely too rich for delicate 
stomachs. When tied into large sau- 
sages about the size of the hand they 
are called "Andouilles." When tied 
into small sausages they are styled 
"Andouillettes." The latter are the 
more delicate. This sausage is gen- 
erally served with mashed potatoes, 
a puree of peas-, or lentils. The chit- 
terlings are first boiled in an aro- 
matic water, with an herb bouquet, 
or in milk; they are then broiled, or 
baked in the oven for eight or ten 
minutes. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



POULTRY. 



De la Volaille. 



Poultry of all kinds, especially 
chicken, furnishes the good cook with 
an infinite variety of delightful dish- 
es, which are, besides dishes that may 
grace the table of the people from 
the simple farmer or the Creole in 
his humble home, to the rich banker 
who can afford to serve them with 
truffles and mushrooms. 

Roast chidk.en, roast turkey, roast 
goose, roast duck are welcome dishes 



on every table. The entries that are 
made from poultry' are various, such 
as Turkey Daube, Fricassees of 
Chicken, with truffles, mushrooms, 
green peas, rice; Ragouts of Ducks, 
Chapons au Gros Sel, Poulardes a. la 
Sauce Tartare, Poulet Saut# a. la Cre- 
ole, all manner of croquettes and 
salads, and gdose entire a. la Chipo- 
lata. Full-grown poultry always has 
the best flavor. 



110 



Guides In Buying Poultry. 

In purchasing turkeys, if Intended 
to roast, select always a young gob- 
bler or a young turkey hen, the lat- 
ter being far preferable, as the meat 
is more tender and delicate. The 
turkey should always be fat, the 
flesh firm, the breast broad and flat 
and the skin fine and white. Turkey 
gobblers and hens that are not so 
young, may be cooked nicely in daube 
but roasting is the proper way to 
cook a turkey if you wish to bring 
out its flavor. The left-over turkey 
is always used by the Creoles in mak- 
ing Turkey Gumbo. (See recipe 
Gumbo Dlnde.) The shorter the neck 
the better will be the turkey. An 
old turkey hen always has purplish 
legs, and the gobbler, if young, will, 
have black legs and small spurs. But 
a gobbler is always larger than a 
turkey hen of the same age. In an 
old. gobbler the flesh is tough and 
strong ia fiber. An old gobbler can 
easily be told by its long spurs and 
purplish legs. In general, old turk- 
eys have long hairs, and the flesh is 
always purplish where it shows un- 
der the skin on the legs or back. 
These are infallible guides. In fol- 
lowing them the young housekeeper 
need never be imposed upon. About 
the month of March turkeys begin 
to deterioate in quality. 

Purchase chickens that are fat, 
with firm, fresh-looking flesh, fine 
skin and yellowish in color. A 
young rooster has small spurs, an 
old rooster large ones, and both the 
young rooster and young hen have 
smooth, soft legs and tender ^kln. 
The breast is soft and pliable and 
full, the feet moist and limbeT, the 
eyes full and bright. Old cfllckens 
are known by the opposite character- 
istics. 

A capon is alw^ays larger and fat- 
ter than the ordinary fowl, but it 
also makes far more delicate eating. 
For this reason the capon is always 
given the preference at fashionable 
feasts. A duck, to be good, must 
be young and fat, with light semi- 
transparent soft breastbone; the 
breast should be plump as ■well as 
fat. In the young duck one always 
finds that the under bill will break 
easily, and that the lower part of 
the legs and the webbing of the feet 
are soft and fresh colored, and that 
the windpipe breaks when pressed 
between the fingers. Ducks are best 
in fall and winter. 

Geese live to be very old. The 
greatest care must, therefore, be tak- 
en Ih buying a goose. Look for the 
same characteristics as in the young 
duck. A goose, to be fit for eating, 
must never be over three years old. 
The year-old goose is always the 
best. To positively determine the 
young goose examine the legs. They 
will be covered with a soft down 



and the flesh will be soft and yel- 
low. As the goose grows older the 
legs turn reddish or purplish In col- 
or, like those of the turkey. 

Guinea fowl, when young, make 
most delicious dishes either in Fric- 
assee or as Fintarde Saut£e. - The 
French discovered the value of the y 
young guinea fowl and the Creoles 
have improved on their methods of 
preparing it, making most delicious 
dishes a, la Cr€oIe. 

Young .pigeon or squab are pre- 
pared in a variety of deligliiful ways 
by Creole culsiniSres, gjld are wel- 
come dishes at thernost r6cherch6 
feast, especially when prepared as 
Pigeons a. la C^apaudine, in which 
the pigeon is .:ro arranged as to rep- 
resent a young frog. The young pig. 
eon is easily known by the tender 
touch. 

HoTv to Clean Poultry. 

Cut off the head at the joint. To 
avoid needless pain, hang the tiirkey 
or chicken, or other fowl, up by the 
feet. The blood will then flow more 
freely and the fowl will die easier 
and quicker. 

Sca,lding is largely a matter of op- 
tion with-, the qook. An old fowl 
win pick much more easily and it 
does not injure the meat to scald 
an old turkey or chicken, but geese 
should never be, scalded nor a turkey 
that you intend to bone. Toung 
spring chickens are completely 
spoiled by having the flesh scalded 
or blanched. As soon as the fowl is 
dead pick off the feathers with a 
quick, steady jerk towards the tall. 
If you pull backwards you will be 
apt to tear the skin. After picking 
well and taking out all of the pin 
feathers, singe the fowl by putting 
paper in the fire and letting it blaze 
up. Pass the fowl backward and 
forward over the blaze and over and 
around, being careful not to burn the 
skin. 

Then proceed to clean the fowl, 
cutting off first the feet at the first 
joint, detaching the skin at the neck 
without breaking it, and drawing but 
whole the craw of the fowl. Cut oft 
the bleeding end of the neck and 
draw the skin over. 

Make a slit under the rump of the 
chicken Just large enough for you to 
draw out easily all the internal or- 
gans, .beinjg.,careful to feel your way, 
and very, very careful, indeed, not 
to break the gallbag' or any of the 
entrails. The contents of either ren- 
der the chicken most unpalatable if 
spilled over it. In this case be care- 
ful to wash the chicken immediately 
and thoroughly before the gall has 
time to penetrate far. After clean- 
nig out the chicken, rinse It inside 
and out and set' It in a cool place. 
Proceed to clean She giblets, cut the 
outer coat of the> gizzard and- draw 



Ill 



off unbroken the inner lining, con- 
taining' the' sand. Cat the gallbagr 
from the liver, being very careful not 
to break it; if you do, throw the liver 
away. Cut open the heart and remove 
all clotted blood. 

Geese, pigeons and birds of all 
kinds are cleaned in the same man- 
ner. 

Poultry should never be cooked un- 
til five or six hours after it has been 
killed, but it should be picked and 
drawn 3s soon as possible. Soda, 
being cl^%nsing, acts as a corrective 
and destroys that unpleasant taste 
which is frequently experienced in 
dressing when a fowl has been killed 
some time and allowed to remain 
with the intestines undrawn, as often 
happens with fowl or game purchased 
in city markets or stores. The flavor 
diffuses its£lf_ through the meat and 
renders it distasteful. In this case, 
after taking out the intestines, rinse 
the fowl inside and out in several 
waters. Then add a teaspoonful of 
baking soda to a quart of water and 
rinse again thoroughly. This pro- 
cess will neutralize all sourness and 
unpleasant taste. 

Having prepared your fowl, cook 
according to any of the following di- 
rections: 

TURKEY. 

Dfnde. 

The turkey hen is called "dinde," 
the turkey gobbler "dindon." The 
preference in eating, Is <ftlways given 
to the "dinde," as the <Mindons" never 
make quite such excelljent dishes. 

Turkey may be roasfed, stewed or 
made into gumbo. Only a very old 
and lean turkey is ever stewed. It is 
utilized in this way as a home dish, 
never on the company table. The 
boned turkey is the triumph of the 
New Orleans cuisine when serving 
cold turkey. No great reception or 
buffet luncheon is complete without 
it. It is the standing dish on New 
rear's day, when the Creole ladies 
rec3ive their gentlemen friends, and, 
on occasions of marriages in the 
family, every father will insist that 
there shall be a boned turkey for the 
wedding feast. 

Roast Turkey. 

Dinde Botie. 

1 Turkey. 2 TaWesroonfuls of Butter, Salt 

and Pepper to Taste. 

Dressing According to Taste, 

A hen turkey is always best for 
roasting. Clean amT prepare the 
turkey according to the directions 
given. Make a nice stuffing either 
of oysters, egg, truffles or chestnuts 
(see Dressings for Fowls.) Bub the 
turkey well with salt and pepper in- 
side and out, and then rub the inside 
with butter, using about a half ta- 
blespoonful. Stuff first the space 
from which yqu took out the craw 



and then sew up the slit in the skin, 
fastening the skin by a pteee of 
thread tied around the neck or fold- 
ing it over and fastening with a 
small skewer. Then stuff the body 
of the turkey. Push the legs under 
the skin near the rumpp cross them 
and fasten them with a small skewer 
or tie with a piece of twine. Turn 
the wings back, under the body of 
the fowl. Bub the turkey all over 
with butter or lard, and place in 
the baking pan that has been 
greased lightly. Bake the turkey In 
a quick oven, allowing about fifteen 
minutes to every pound. Baste every 
ten minutes or so with its own drip- 
pings. When done, remove the twine 
and the skewer and place on a hot 
dish, garnished nicely with parsley, 
and serve. The turkey breast should 
always be carved in delicate slices. 
In making the dressing of any 
kind, always take up the liver and 
heart, which you have seasoned well 
and minced very fine, and add to the 
turkey, dressing and mixing thor- 
oughly. 

Roast Turkey With Truffles. 

Dinde Truff6e Botie. 

1 Fine Young Hen Turkey. 

1 Pound of Lean Ham, Cut into Dice. 

2 Pounds of Truffles. % Nutmeg. 

% of a Teaspoonful of Pepper. 

1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine. 

Clean and prepare the turkey for 
roasting as directed in the above re- 
cipe. Put a saucepan on the fire and 
put in the ham cu;t into dice. When 
hot add two pounds of the very best 
truffles and the grated nutmeg, the 
pepper and a minced bay leaf. Stir 
over the fire for about fifteen njin- 
utes. Then take off and let cpol. 
When it is cold stuff the place at 
the neck of the turkey whence you 
take the craTV, and sew up and ar- 
range as indicated in the directions 
for dressing a turkey. Stuff the body 
of the turkey with the remainder of 
the truffles and sew it up and truss 
it. Set it in the oven and roast 
according to the above recipe, serv- 
ing with a Sauce aux Truffles. This 
is a very expensive dish. 

Roast Turkey liVlth IMushrooins. 

Dinde Botie Farcie aux Chamingnons. 
Proceed in the above manner, sub- 
stituting mushrooms instead. 

Turkey With Chestnuts or Oysters. 

Dinde Botie Farcie aux Marrons~ou 
aux Hultres. 

Prepare the turkey In the manner 
indicated in "Boast Turkey;" stuff 
according to taste with either a 
Chestnut or Oyster Dressing (see re- 
cipes under chapter "Stuffings and 
Dressings for Poultry, Game, etc.") 
and cook as in recipe for "Boast Tur- 
key." Chestnut and OySter Stuffings 



112 



are favorite Creole dressings for tur- 
keys. 

Turkey en Daube. 

Dinde en Daube. 

1 Large' Turkey. 

1 Bunch Each of Parsley, Thyme and Small 

Celery Leaves. 

Large Slice o£ Salt Pork. 

2 Onions end 2 Carrots, Sliced. 

10 Cloves. % Calfs Foot. 

1 Clove of Garlic. Bouquet of Sweet Herbs. 

VA Pints of Broth or Boiling Water. 

2 Spoonfuls of Brar.uy. 

1 Pint of White Wine. 

Clean and prepare the turkey as 
In the above directions, then stuff 
either with egg dressing or oyster 
stuffing. Rub well with salt and 
pepper. Place at the bottom of a 
deep pot slender strips of salt pork 
and half of a calf's foot, well pre- 
pared. Place on top lOf this the 
slices of onions, carrots, fine herbs, 
minced nicely; garlic, minced, cel- 
ery, parsley, etc., and lay the turkey 
on this bed. Pour over it one pint 
of white wine and two tablespoonfuls 
of brandy, and one pint and a half 
of good broth or boiling water. Sea- 
son well to taste and cover tightly. 
Set on the stove to simmer very 
slowly for at least Ave hours if the 
turkey is old. Turn it once very 
carefully when half done cooking. 
After five hours, lift the turkey out 
of the sauce, place on a hot dish. 
Strain the sauce through a sieve, and 
if the turkey is served at once, serve 
hot in a separate dish. If not, pour 
it over the turkey and set it away to 
cool. It will become quite jellied 
and makes an excellent luncheon 
dish. 

Boned Turkey. 
Gelatine TrufE6e a, la GelSe. 

1 Young Turkey Hen. 
2 Pounds of Young Veal. 

1 Pound of Pat Fresh Pork 

1 Pound of Lean Fresh Pork. 

Yi Pound of Cooper's Gelatine. 

Vi Can of Truffles. 

I' Tahlespoonful Each of Minced Parsley, 

and Thyme. 

3 Minced Bay Leaves. 1 Lemon. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 

1 Glass of Brandy. 

1 Wineglass of Sherry. 2 Carrots. 

1 Turnip. 1 Stalk of Celery. 

2 Gallons of Water. 

% Teaspoontul Each of Grated Cinnamon and 
Allspice. 

For this highly-prized dish, select 
a young hen turkey. It must be 
hand-picked — that is, it must not be 
scalded, or it -will be unfit for the 
purpose of boning. Clean it thor- 
oughly, and, when well cleansed, 
place the turkey on the table, yitji 
the breast down, and take a sliarp 
penknife, or a very sharp-poin,ted 
knife, and cut the turkey o^en friom 
the, neck to the rump, down the back- 
bone. Then, with great care, run the 



knife between the' bones and the 
flesh to the wings, and, on reaching 
the Joints, unjoint and separate the 
bones from the body without break- 
ing the flesh; in likemanner remove 
each bone as you reach the Joint, ex- 
cept the small bone in the tips of the 
wings, which cannot be taken out 
easily and which are generally left 
on. Carefully slit out the bones of 
the leg, and then run the knife be- 
tween the bones and flesh till you 
come to the breast bone. Skillfully 
separate the flesh from the bone by 
running the knife between, being' 
careful to pull it out without break- 
ing the flesh of the turkey. After 
removing the carcass, spread out the 
turkey, which will be whole, and 
wipe inside and out with a damp 
towel, and rub ■well with salt and 
pepper, inside and out. Set aside in 
a cool place and prepare the follow- 
ing dressing or stufflng: Take two 
pounds of young veal, one pound of 
young, fat, fresh pork, and one pound 
of lean fresh pork. Mince these 
as fine as possible, and then season 
as follows: One-half of a nutmeg, 
finely grated; one tablespoonful of 
minced parsley; one of minced thyme, 
three of minced bay leaves, one tea-^ 
fepoonful of salt and one of black 
pepper, a teaspoonful of grated cin- 
namon, one-quarter teaspoonful of 
grated allspice and the Juice of one 
onion. Mix all this thoroughly in 
the stuffing. Add two raw eggs, 
beaten well; one wineglass full of 
Sherry and one of Brandy; stir well. 
When ^ell mixed add one-quarter of . 
a box of truffles, chopped, but not too- 
flne. Take the turkey, lay it open 
and carefully cut a layer of meat in 
nice slices from the inner part. Then 
put in a thick layer of the stuffing, 
and lay over this a layer of the meat,, 
using the whole liver, sliced in strips, 
also as alternate layers; then put 
in the rest of the stuffing as a layer, 
and bring the turkey nicely together 
and sew up so that it will retain its 
original shape. Have ready a nice, 
clean towel; roll the turkey in the 
towel, and tie it securely at both 
ends and around the middle in a 
solid way. Take all the bones of the 
turkey, the skinned feet, cleaned 
head and all, and place in a large 
pot. Add two pounds of veal, cut 
in pieces, and two calves' feet. Put 
in two carrots, one turnip, several 
sprigs of thyme and parsley, three 
bay leaves and a large piece of cel- 
ery. Add two gallons of water, and 
let this boil very hard for an hour. 
Then add the turkey which you wilL 
have tied in the towel and let it boil 
for two hours. After two hours, 
take the turkey out of the towel. 
It ■'vlll have shrunken up by this time- 
and the towel will be crinkled great- 
ly. Roll the towel out very smooth- 
ly again, and place the turkey back- 
in it while hot,' and ' roll carefully 



113 



again. Tie it at both ends and across 
the middle, and then place on a table 
and put a board or plank on top, and 
over this a flfteen-pound weight. 
Leave it in a cool place, but not in 
the ice box, as it must cool grad- 
ually and naturally. After it has 
cooled five on six hours you may 
put it in the ice box. 

In the meantime you will have left 
on the fire the pot with the water, 
bones, etc., in vfhich the turkey has 
been boiled. Let it boil for two hours 
longer, with the bones and all. Then 
take oil and drain the whole through 
a strainer, first letting the juice fall 
in another pan; then strain this 
through a towel, for there must be 
no pieces of cinnamon or herbs or 
dregs in this Jelly. Skim off all the 
grease that floats on top, being care- 
ful not to leave a particle. Put it 
on the flre again, and let it simmer. 
Add to the boiling mixture one lemon 
arid skin, cut in four or five pieces, 
and season with salt to taste. Put 
in a bowl one-quarter of a pound 
of Cooper's gelatine, and add one pint 
of water in which the turkey has 
been boiled; stir ■well and let the 
gelatine melt. When well melted, 
pour into the boiling mixture and 
beat it as you would a cake, mixing 
thoroughly. Take another bowl-, and 
break three raw eggs in it, and mash 
the shells and add; add one small 
wineglass of water and beat well 
again, as you would a cake. Prepare 
a flannel bag of size sufficient to hold 
a half gallon. Then pour the; eggs 
into the broth beating very thorough- 
ly and rapidly through and through 
for ten minutes, while it remains on 
the fire. The moment it begins to boil 
up it will curdle; then take the mix- 
ture off and strain in the flannel bag. 
Let this fall into a few tin cups or 
cans, for they are best, and set on 
ice. The next morning it will be 
hard. Then unroll the turkey and 
put it in a dish; cut the jelly from 
the can into fancy shapes and orna- 
ment the turkey with it, placing a 
fancy border around the dish. Tou 
will have a dish that a king might 
envy. 

Boned chicken may be prepared in 
exactly the same way. 

CHICKEN. 



Poulet. 

Chickens may be broiled, boiled, 
fried, stewed, baked or smothered. 
For broiling, always purchase spring 
chickens. For baking, the chicken 
must be young and lender. For in- 
valids, a delicately boiled spring 
chicken, with Drawn Butter Sauce, is 
• most nutritious and easily diges- 
tible diah. 



Broiled Chicken. 

Poulet Grill*. 

A Spring Chicken. Meltefl Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Select spring chickens for broil- 
ing. For a family of six several 
will be required. Clean the chick- 
ens, nicely, singe, and then split dowr 
the middle of the back, laying the 
chicken open. Break the breastbone 
with a mallet and flatten out the 
chicken. Season well with salt anc 
pepper, and brush with melted but- 
ter. Have the broiler ready over a 
moderate fire, and place the chicken 
between (the double broiler is best) 
and let the fowl broil slowly for 
about a half hour, if the chicken is 
very tender, otherwise three-quarters 
of an. hour. It is well to keep a plate 
over it all the time, as it will re- 
tain its flavor better. Turn the chick- 
en frequently, so that it may be 
broiled through and through. H 
should be slightly browned on the 
skin side. When done, place in s 
heated\dish, pour over melted butter 
and garnish with chopped parslej 
and serve hot. A garnish of cresses 
is" very pretty. The dish is then 
called "Poulet Grille aux Cressons.' 

Boiled Cliiekeii. 

Poulet Bouilli. 

A Spring Cliieken. Drawn Butter Sauce. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Select a nice spring chiolcen, clear 
and singe and split down the mid- 
dle of the back. Season with sail 
and pepper, rubbing well on the in- 
side of the chicken. Place in a 
saucepan and cover ■well with water 
and let it. simmer well for one hour 
if the chicken is young. If the 
chicken is a year old and over, lei 
it simmer for two hours, according 
to age. When done take out of the 
water and place in a heated dish 
Pour over a Drawn Butter Sauce 
(see recipe) and garnish Witt 
chopped parsley. 

Creamed Chicken. 

Poulet a. la' CrSme. 

1 Chicken. Salt and Pepper to -Taste. 
A Cream Sauce. 

Select a fine one-year-old chicken 
and clean, singe and boil according t( 
the above recipe, first having cut ir 
joints, however. In boiling always 
simply cover the chicken with water 
, otherwise you will have chicker 
soup, all the nutriment of the chick- 
en being absorbed by the soup. Wher 
cooked for an hour or longer, if th( 
chicken is now very tender, take oui 
of the saucepan and place in a disl 
and pour over a Cream Sauce (sec 
recipe^, and serve. 



114 



DeTlIed Chicken. 

Poulet a. la Diable. 

1 Chicken. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of ParBley. 

% of a CloTe of Garlic. 

1 Glass of White Wine. 
1 Pint of Water. 
1 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. 
Salt and Pepper. A Dash of Cayenne. 
Boll the chicken according to the 
above recipe. Mince the meat fine. 
Make a sauce by putting into a 
saucepan one tablespoonful of but- 
ter, and as it melts add one onion, 
minced very fine; a sprig of minced 
parsley, one minced bay leaf, and 
a. half clove of minced garlic. Let it 
simmer gently without browning and 
then add one tablespoonful of flour. 
Well sifted. Mix thoroughly, and add 
three tablespoonfuls of vinegar or 
a wineglass of "White Wine. Stir 
well and add one pint of the water 
in which the chicken was boiled. 
Season with salt and pepper to taste 
and a slight dash of Cayenne. Then 
add one teaspoonful of prepared mus- 
tard. Let it simmer three minutes 
longer, and as it comes to a bail 
p6ur over the chicken and serve. 
Ahy remains of cold chicken are very 
delicious served with this "Sauce 
a la Diable." (See recipe "Meat 
Sauces.") 

Chicken A la Tartare. 

Poulet a. la Tartare. 

1 Spring Chicken. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Cbopped Parsley. 

1 Tablespoonful of Thyme. 

1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine. 

1 Cbopped Onion. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the chicken according to the 
above recipe, adding the chopped 
vegetables and herbs. Season to 
taste. When done, place on a hot 
dish, butter nicely and serve with a 
Sauce a, la Tartare. (See recipe.) 

A broiled chicken may be served in 
the same manner, but either broiled 
or boiled, the chicken must be cooked 
whole, splitting down the back. 

Stewed Chicken, Broivn Sauce. 

Fricassge de Volaille, Sauce Brune. 

1 Chicken. 1 Onion. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 
Leaf. • 
Salt and Pepper (o Taste. 
Clean and cut the chicken into 
pieces at the joints. Season well with 
salt and black pepper. Chop the on- 
ions fine. Put a tablespoonful of lard 
Into the stewpot, and, when hot, add 
the onion. Let it brown slightly and 
then add the flour, which has been 
well sifted. Let this brown and add 
the chicken. Let all simmer a few 



minutes and then add the chopped 
thyme, parsley and bay leaf. The 
latter must be minced very fine. Stir 
well and often. When every piece 
is nicely browned, add one pint and 
a h.alf of boiling water or soup broth. 
Stir until it begins to boil. Season 
again to taste. Cover and let it sim- 
mer gently for an hour, or until ten- 
der. In making a fricass§e, the liver, 
heart and gizzard of the chicken are 
all thrown into the stew. Dish up 
the chicken, pour over the hot sauce 
and serve hot. This, dish Is very 
nice with boiled rice or potatoes. It 
is a simple, elegant dish, within the 
means of everyone. This is a plain 
fricassee. 

Stewed Chicken, White Sauce. 

Fricassfie de Volaille, Sauce Blanche. 

1 Chicken. 1 Onion. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 1 Pint Fresh Mlllt. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean and cut the chicken into 
joints and clean the gizzard, liver 
and open the heart. Season well 
with salt and pepper, and put all 
into a stewpan on a moderate fire. 
Cover well with boiling water. Let 
simmer for an hour and a half or 
quarter if the chicken is very young; 
longer if the chicken is old. Add 
the juice of two large onions. Cook 
until tender. This is, the unvarying 
rule in stewing or cooking chickens, 
as one may be tender and the other 
quite tough, though of the same age. 
When the chicken is done, blend to- 
gether one large tablespoonful of 
butter and of flour in a frying pan 
without browning; add a pint of 
milk and mix well. Add this to the 
chicken, mixing and stirring con- 
stantly till it boils. Salt and pep- 
per to taste. Take from the fire and 
add the beaten yolks of two eggs 
and a little chopped parsley. Serve 
hot. 

Chicken Saute ft la Creole. 

Poulet SautS a. la Creole. 

2 Fine Spring Chickens. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

6 Large Fresh Tomatoes, or % Can. 

C Fiesh, Sweet Green Peppers. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 

3 Large Onions. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

2 Bay Leases. 
1 Pint of Consomme or Boiling Water. 
Salt and fepper to Taste. 

Take two spring chickens and 
clean nicely and cut Into pieces at 
the joints. Season well With salt 
and pepper. Put two tablespoonfuls 
of butter into a stewpan, and, when 
it ftielts, add the chicken. Let this 
brown slowly for : a good, five min- 
utes. Have ready three' large on- , 
Jons sliced. Add these to the cbickr 



115 



ens and let them brown. Everv inch 
must be-Jri^sftr bfWKrned, but not in 
the slightest degree burned. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of ^ flour; let this 
brown. Then add a half do^en large, 
fresh- -tomatoes nicely slicea, -or a 
half can of tomatoes, and let these 
brown. Cook very slowly,' allowing 
the mixture to simply simmer. Add 
chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaf 
and two cloves of garlic finely 
minced. Let all brown without burn- 
ing. Cover and let it smother over 
a slow but steady fire. The tomato 
juice will make sufficient gravy as 
yet. If you have sweet green pep- 
pers, add a half dozen, taking the 
seeds out before adding and slicing 
the peppers very fine. Stir well. Let 
all smother steadily for twenty min- 
utes at least, keeping well covered 
and stirring occasionally. When 
well smothered, add one cup of Con- 
sojnm6, if you have it; if not, one cup 
of boiling water'. Let it cook again 
for a full half hour, very, very slowly 
over a very steady Are,- and season 
again to taste. Cook ten minutes 
more, and serve hot. You will then 
have a dish for which any old Cre- 
ole would go on foot from CarroUton 
to the Barracks, a distance of fifteen 
miles, merely to get a taste of. 

Chicken With Mushrooms. 

Poulet Saute aux Champignons. 

1 Fine Spring Chicken. ^ Can of Mushrooms. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Chopped Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 

% Square Inch of Ham to Season. 

Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. 

Cut into joints and season a nice- 
ly cleaned chicken. Put it in a sauce- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, and let it simmer for about ten 
minutes, browning slightly. A mush- 
room sauce is never dark. Add two 
nicely-chopped onions, and let these 
brown slightly; then add one-half 
of a square inch of ham,* chopped 
very fine indeed. Add thyme, parsley 
and bay leaf, following carefully the 
order given in adding the ingred- 
ients. A minute later add the garlic, 
which has been minced very fine. Let 
all brown together for ten minutes. 
Cut the mushrooms into halves, put 
them with their water, into the pot, 
stirring well. Let them simmer five 
minutes. Then add a wineglass of 
Sherry or Madeira, stir and cover the 
pot closely, so that It can smother 
well. If the sauce appears too thick 
add about a half cup of broth or 
boiling water. Season to taste, and 
let all cook very slowly for an hour 
longer over a steady fire. The secret 
in smothering chicken is to let it 
cook slowly, so that the seasoning 
may permeate the flesh and the heat 
by slow degrees render It tender and 
most palatable. 



Chicken With Truffles. 

Poulet Saute aux TrufEes. 
Proceed in exactly the same man. 
iier as in the above recipe, only adc 
a half can of truffles instead of th( 
mushrooms. This is an expensive 
dish. 

Chicken and Rice, 
Poulet au Riz. 

1 Fine Chicken. 

% Square Inch of Ham. 

2 Small Turnips. 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 

1 Small Piece Lemon Peel. "' 

1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Small Piece of Bed Pepper Pod. 

1 Bay Leaf. 

2 Whole Cloves, Without the Seed. 

3 Sliced Tomatoes. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

2 Quarts of Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls Butter. 
Salt and ■Pepper to Taste. 
Clean and cut and^eason the chick- 
en well with salt and pepper. Put 
the buttet into the saucepan and let 
It melt, and add the^seasoned chicken. 
Let It brown well, and add the vege- 
tables, all chopped very fine. Then 
add the minced herbs and garlic, and 
after this the spices. Let all sim- 
mer gently fpr ten minutes, and 
pour over two quarts of boiling wa- 
ter. Stir and season again to taste 
and set back on the stove and let it 
simmer steadily and slowly for three- 
quarters of , an hour. When two- 
thirds cooked, add one cup of well- 
washed rice, stir well, seasoning 
again to taste. Do not let the rice 
become mushy. Let the grains stand 
out. Let all cook for twenty minutes 
longer and serve, taking out first the 
pieces of chicken and ranging the 
rice around as a garnish. Serve with 
the sauce poured over. 

Chicken Steived With Green Peas. 

\ Poulet Saute aux Petit Pois. 

1 Nice Chicken of a Year Old. 
1 Pint of Green Peas. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Chopped Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Pint of Fresh Milk. % Square Inch of Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 

Cut and season the chicken nicely. 
Put It in a saucepan with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and let it simmer 
nicely for about ten minutes without 
browning. Add two nicely-chopped 
onions and let these brown slightly. 
Then add a square inch of ham, 
chopped very fine, and minced thyme, 
parsley and bay leaf, one sprig each. 
Add the garlic, nicely minced. Let 
all brown together, slightly simmer- 
ing all the time. Then pour in one 
pint of boiling water, and set back 
on the stove and let simmer gently 
for an hour and a quarter. About 
twenty minutes before serving add 
one pint of milk, and let all cook for 
twenty minutes. Serve with the 



116 



green peas heaped around the chick- 
en, which should be placed in the 
center p£ the dish. Pour the gravy 
over, and bring to the table. 

Chicken With Dumplings. 

Poulet aux fichaudgs. 
1 Pine Year Old Chicken. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 

2 Dozen Small Dumplings. 
Prepare a Plain Fricassee, Brovyn 

or White Gravy, and, about twelve 
minutes before serving, add the 
dumplings, dropping them in lightly 
and bring the chicken to a brisk 
boil. (See recipe for Dumplings.) 
Place the chicken and dumplings in 
the dish, pour the hot gravy over 
and serve. 

Chicken Ik la Jardlni£re. 

Poulet a. la Jardiiiifire. 

1 Fine Chicken. 

6 Small Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf. 

% Head of Cauliflower, 

H Cup of Green Peas 

3 Small Artichokes. 
Yi Can of Mushrooms. 
Cut and stew the chicken as in 
Fricassee Brown Gravy. After add- 
ing the water, add a half dozen small 
onions, and let it simmer for an hour. 
or until tender. Then add one-quar- 
ter can of mushrooms, a small half 
head of cauliflower (nicely chopped), 
a half cup of green peas and several 
cooked artichokes. Set upon a quick 
fire, mix well and add a pint of good 
broth or water; let all cook for twen- 
ty minutes longer and serve hot. 

Smothered Chicken. 

Poulet BraisS. 
1 Chicken. 1 Tahlespoonful of Lard. 
This is a most delicate and pala- 
table way of cooking chickens. After 
cleaning the young chicken, split 
down the back and dredge with salt 
and pepper. Put a tablespoonful of 
lard into the frying pan, and, when 
It is hot, add the chicken. Let it 
simmer gently for about fifteen min- 
utes, then add a half cup of water, 
and set back on the stove, and let 
it simmer gently and steadily for 
about an hour. Serve with a garnish 
of chopped parsley. Some smother 
the chicken in butter, but this is ac- 
acoording to taste. Butter always 
makes a greasier dish than lard when 
frying or smothering meats. 

Breasts of Chicken liOuislana Style. 

Suprgme de Volaille k la Loulsianaise. 

The Filets of 2 Chickens. 

4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, 

1 Small Onion, sliced. 1 Minced Bay Leaf. 

1 Blade of Mace. 4 Cloves. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The filets are the white meat on 

either side of the breast bop'e. In 



one chicken you will have four filets. 
'Form this white meat neatly into 
•filets by patting and fiattening. Then 
season well with salt and pepper. 
Put the butter into the stewpan and 
add the sliced onion, the bay leaf 
(whole) and the spices. Let all sim- 
mer without browning. Then lay in 
the filets of chicken, being careful 
not to let them brown. Let them 
simmer'gently and add one cup of the 
water in which you have broiled the 
dark meat of the chicken. ' Let all 
simmer gently for an hour. When 
done, arrange the filets tastefully on 
a dish, garnish with parsley sprigs 
and CroOtons of bread nicely shaped 
in diamond form and fried in butter. 
The dark meat may be utilized in 
making salads, croquettes or bou- 
dins. 

Breasts of Chicken, Q,neen Strle. 

Supr§me de Volaille &. la Keine. 

6 or 8 Breasts of Chicken. 2 Truffles. 

4 Mushrooms. 

2 Ounces of Chicken Forcemeat. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Gill of Madeira Wine. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Mushroom Liquor. 

1 Pint of Hot Sauce a la Reine. 

Under the breast of each chicken 
' is found a small filet. Carefully re- 
move this, and set aside on a dish 
for further use. Take a small, sharp 
Icnife and make an incision three 
Inches long and one inch deep in the 
inner side of each breast; season 
lightly with salt and pepper, and then 
'stuff each breast in the incision made, 
using two ounces of chicken force- 
'meat (see reoliJe), mixed with two 
truffles and four mushrooms, all finely 
minced. Put a tablespoonful of but- 
ter in a stewpan; lay the breasts in 
gently. Take each small filet, press 
gently into shape, and flatten; make 
several small incisions and place 
within a fine slice of trufltle, about an 
inch in diameter. Carefully lay on 
'top of each breast lengthwise. Brush 
lightly with melted butter. Pour 
into the pan, but not over the breasts, 
the wine and mushroom liquor. Cover 
tightly and set in the oven for fit- 
teen minutes. Send to the table hot. 

Smothered Chicken. 

Poularde Btouffifi. 

1 Toung Hen. M Pound of Nice Bacon. 

1 Lemon. 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 
1 Herb Bouquet. 1% Cups Broth. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
This is a nice way to utilize young 
hens. Clean and singe the chicken 
nicely, and, after taking out the en- 
trails, truss it as in roasting turkey. 
Place in the frying pan small pieces 
of fat bacon, out in very slender 
strips of about the size of your fing- 
er. Place over this slices of l«mo;i. 
very fine, and cover again with slen- 



Il7 



der bits of bacon. Moisten tliis with 
a half cup of water and lay over 
two carrots, cut in thin slices, and 
two onions, out likewise, and a tea- 
spoonful each of thyme, parsley and 
one bay leaf, minced fine. Place on 
top of this the chicken and cover 
closely. Let it cook on' a good Are 
for three-quarters of an hour, or a 
half hour, it the chicken is exoeed- 
ing-ly tender. When done, take out 
the chicken, add ono-half cup of 
broth to the liquor in which it has 
been boiling. Stir well and season 
highly, and pour over the chicken 
and serve. A sauce of tomatoes may 
also be made and served with this 
dish. 

Fried Chicken. 

Poulet Frit. 

1 Spring Chicken. 

3 _ Tablespoonfuls of Lard. 2 Eggs. 

i Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean and cut the chicken into 

joints, Dredge well with salt and 

pepper. Make a nice batter with the 

eggs and flour and roll the chicken 

in this, patting lightly. Place in the 

hot lard in the frying pan and let 

it cook for about three-quarters of 

an hour, watching carefully that it 

may not burn. Serve on a platter 

garnished with chopped parsley and 

cresses. 

Fried Chicken, Cream Sance. 

Poulet Frit a, la CrSme. 

1 Spring Cliicken. 
3 Tablespoonfuls of Lard. 
Salt and Pepper. 1 Tableapoonful of Flour. 
% Pint of ililk. 
Clean and cut the chicken at the 
joints. Dredge well with salt and 
pepper, and a little flour. Put the 
lard into the frying pan, and, when 
hot, add the chicken, letting it fry 
slowly for three-quarters of an hour 
until done. Be careful not to burn. 
When done, arrange the pieces on a 
hot dish. Pour off all the fat that 
remains in the frying pan but one 
tablespoonful. Add to this a table- 
spoonful of sifted flour. Mix thor- 
oughly and then pour in a half pint 
of rich cream or milk. Season well 
with salt and pepper, let it come to 
a slight boil and pour over the chick- 
en and serve. 

Roast Chicken, 

Poulet Hoti. 

1 Chicken. % Tablespoonful Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Proceed in exactly the same man- 
ned as for roasting a turkey. (See 
rteoipe.) The chicken must bake in 
a quick oven, allowing fifteen min- 
utes to every pound. A roasted 
chicken may be stuffed or not, ac- 
cording to taste, with a stufling of 
oysters, eggs or truffles (see Dress- 



ings for Fowls) in exactly the same 
manner as turkey. 

Chicken & la Relne. 

Poulet a, la Peine. 
2 Chickens of 1 Year Old. 
Vi Pound of Nice Bacon. 1 Carrot, cut fine. 
1 Onion., cut fine 
1 Quart of Broth or Water. 
1 Herb Bouquet. 
Clean the chickens and truss as 
for roasting. Then dredge inside and 
out with salt and pepper. Cut the 
bacon into very thin strips, about the 
width of a match, and cover the bot- 
tom of the stewpan. Lay over this 
the carrots and onions, sliced fine, 
and put another layer of salt meat 
in delicate strips. Put the chickens 
in this and cover well and set in- 
side of a hot oven. After twenty 
minutes add the boiling broth or 
water and thes bunch of sweet herbs. 
Let the chickens cook for two hours, 
turning them at the end of one hour 
and basting occasionally. Put the 
chicken in a hot dish, boil the gravy 
down to a half quart, skim off all 
the grease and pass through a sieve 
and pour over the chickens and serve. 

Casserole of Chicken. 

Casserole de Volaille. 

% Cup of Cream. 

3 Quarts of Cold Water. 

1 Tablespoonful of Salt. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Cups of Louisiana Rice. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A White Fricassee of Chicken. 
Make a FricassSe of Chicken, White 
Gravy. Boil the rice according to re- 
cipe (see Boiled Rice) and then mash 
the rice thoroughly and add the but- 
ter and season with salt and pep- 
per. Take a raised pie pan or cas- 
serole and press the rice into this, 
and set away to cool. When cool, 
■cut out the center of the rice and 
fill the wall and bottom with the 
white fricassSe of chicken. Cover 
the top with the rice which you have 
cut out, laying on lightly, so as not 
to press the chicken sauce through. 
Beat an egg well and brush over 
this. Set in the oven and bake. Serve 
Svith Mushroom Sauce. 

Chicken Souffle. 

SoufflS de Poulet. 
1 Pint of Chopped Left-Over Chicken. 
1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
3 Fresh Eggs. 
''A Cup of Stale Bread. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Melt the butter in a saucepan and 
add the flour, and niix nicely without 
browning. Then add the milk and 
stir constantly till it boils. Add the 
bread crumbs and cook for one min- 
ute longer. Then take from the fire 
and add the chicken, which has been 



118 



hashed very fine and seasoned well 
with salt, pepper and Cayenne, judg- 
ing according to the taste. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs and add, mixing 
thoroughly. Then beat the whites to 
a stifE froth and stir very carefully 
Into the mixture. Grease the bot- 
tom of a baking dish with butter 
and put the mixture in this, baking 
for twenty minutes in a quick oven. 
Serve immediately while hot, or it 
will fall. This Is a very delicate, 
dish. 

Chicken Pie. 

Vol-au-Vent de Volaille. 

1 Chicken. 1 Onion. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. 
Pie Paste. 
Clean and cut the chicken into 
small pieces of about two inches in 
length and make a plain frloassSe. 
(See Fricassee Brown Gravy.) Pre- 
pare a Vol-au-Vent Paste (see re- 
cipe), and flU a tin pan of about two 
quarts with the Paste. Pour in the 
chicken and gravy, and let It bake 
in the oven till the top crust is nicely 
browned. Always bake the under 
crust first. This is a delightful en- 
tree at any feast. Vol-au-Vent of 
pigeons, young veal and frog legs are 
made in the same manner. A Vol- 
au-Vent of Frogs is called "Gre- 
nouilles a. la Poulet." The Vol-au- 
Vent paste is difficult to make. 

Chicken Patties,. Q.neen Style. 

Petites BouchSes, t la Beine. 

1 Small Young Chicken. 
i2 Rounds of PutC Paste. 
1 Tablespoonful of Cutter. 
1 TablespQOQful of Flour. 
H Pint of Milk. %v Can of Mushrooms. 

A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg. 
Salt and Pepper to' Taste. 

Roast or broil the chicken nicely. 
Make a Puff Paste. (See recipe.) 
Cut a_ dozen rounds with a biscuit 
cutter; mark a smaller round or 
top for a cover. Brush with a beat- 
en egg, and mark on the surface of 
each with the cutter, dipping it each 
time in hot water, so that the marked 
outline may remain perfect. Set In 
a brisk oven and let them brown 
nicely for twelve minutes. Then re- 
move the covers gently with a knife 
and fill with the following garnish- 
ing. Remove all the chicken meat 
from the bone and chop very fine. 
Put a tablespoonful of butter In a 
sautoire or stewpan and add a ta- 
blespoonful of sifted flour. Stir till 
smooth. Pour in gradually a half 
pint of hot milk till the same reaches 
the consistency of S, thick cream. 
Season to taste with salt and pepper 
and a Utile nutmeg, and add one- 
half can of mushrooms finely chopped 
and the chicken. Stir constantly and 



let it come to a boll. Then remove 
from the fire and fill the patties. Set 
the covers on, serve on a hot dish. 
Pork tongues, blanched sweetbreads 
and all other "Bouch6es" are pre- 
pared in the same manner. 

Boned Chicken. 

Galatine TruffSe a la Gelfie. 
Proceed In exactly the same man- 
ner as tor boned turkey and serve. 
(See recipe Boned Turkey.) 

Chicken Croqiaettes. 

Croquettes de Volaille. 
1 Young Chicken. 
2 Small Onions. 1 Bay Leaf. 
4 Sprigs of Parsley. 
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter, 
1 Cup of Milk. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
Cayenne and Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the chicken as directed in 
the recipe for boiling. Then, when 
cold, remove all the tough fibers and 
nerves. Hash the chicken well and 
season with the minced vegetables 
and sweet herbs, mixing all thor- 
oughly. Then take a cup of the soft 
of the bread, wet it and squeeze, and 
soak in milk, in which you have beat- 
en two eggs. Mix all this with the 
chicken very thoroughly and season 
to taste. When well mixed form 
the meat Into cylindrical shapes and 
•brush with a little butter. Then roll 
in a beaten egg and roll again in 
powdered bread crumbs. Fry in 
boiling lard and serve hot on a plate 
garnished with fried parsley. 

Remains of cold turkey or cold 
chicken may be utilized In this^way. 
Chicken Bnlla, Q,neen Style. 
Boudins 3. la Reine. 
1 Young Chicken. 
2 Small Onions. 1 Bay Leaf. 
i Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Cup of Milk, 

2 Eggs. Vi Grated Nutmeg. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Boudins a. la Reine are made in ex- 
actly the same manner as croquettes, 
only the mixture Is placed In a frying 
pan and fried in butter, using about 
a tablespoonful. To this Is added 
about one pint of milk. Beat the 
chicken thoroughly in this, ».dd a 
grated nutmeg, then take oft the Are 
and add two eggs, well beaten. Fill 
custard cups with the mixture, place 
In the oven setting In a pan of boil- 
ing water and covering with paper. 
Let them bake thus as you would 
a cup custard for twenty minutes, 
and take off the paper and let them 
brown. Serve hot. All cold roasts, 
whether of turkey or chicken, may be 
thus utilized. 

Bonlettea. 

Boulettes are prepared in exactly 

the same manner as boudins, only 

' the meat Is formed into boulettes, or 



119 



small balls, and patted on either side 
to flatten slightly. 

Chicken Snlad, Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Mayonnaise de VolalUe. 

Remains of Cold Chicken, 

or Freshly Boiled. 

. 3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 

CelSry. 1 Onion. 

Celery, Asparagus Tips and Boiled Beets 

to Garnish. 

A Sauce a - la Mayonnaise. 
The remains of cold chicken are 
used for this. But it is always pref- 
erable for dinners to boil the chick- 
ens nicely and use only the white 
meat, if you wish the dish to be 
recherche. The dark meat, however, 
is equally good, though it may not 
look so pretty. After cooking the 
chickens very tender, pick out all 
the white meat into small pieces of 
about an inch or less, and add 
chopped celery of the whitest fiber 
and very tender. Mix thoroughly, 
using good judgment in having parts 
of the celery and chicken in the pro- 
portion of one-third celery. Chop an 
onion very fine, and add. Season all 
with salt and pepper to taste. Place 
on a dish and spread over a nice 
Mayonnaise dressing (see Sauce a 
la Mayonnaise), and garnish prettily 
with celery tips, asparagus tips, ol- 
ives, and very delicately sliced red 
beets, and sliced lemon. 

Chicken Li-vers. 

Foies de Volaille. 
Chicken livers may be prepared as 
"Foie de Volaille Saut6," or "Foie 
de 'Volaille en Broohette." They are 
prepared in exactly the same manner 
as in the recipes for cooking beef's 
liver. (See recipe.) 

CAPONS. 

Chapons. 

Capons of either turkey or chicken 
are cooked in exactly the same man- 
ner, generally being best when boiled 
or roasted. 

Chapon Farcie a, la CrSme corres- 
ponds to Creamed Chicken, and Cha- 
pon a la Po§le corresponds to Pou- 
larde a la Pogle, and are particu- 
larly recommended. (See recipes.) 

GriNE3A FOWli. 

Pintade. 
The Guinea Fowl is only eaten 
when very young, and then it makes 
a nice, palatable dish. All the prep- 
arations given for cooking turkey 
may be followed in preparing this 
fowl, and it is unnecessary to repeat 
them here. (See recipes for Cooking 
Turkey.) 

goose:. 

Die. 

The goose is a much tougher fowl 
than either the chicken or turkey 



and requires longer to cook. It is 
also dryer meat, and in roasting 
requires to have a little water poured 
over it. Never roast a goose that is 
more than eight months or a year old, 
and never eat a goose over three 
years old. The happy age for gene- 
ral cooking is when the goose has 
reached one year or one year and a 
half. Young wild geese of not more 
than one year, and yard ducklings of 
similar age, are broiled in the same 
manner as spring chicken. The fa;t- 
ter the goose, the more tender and 
juicy the meat. 

Roast Goose. 

Ole Rotie. 

1 Young Goose. i Onions. 

1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes. 

% Teaspoonfnl of Thyme. 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 

4 Apples. 1% Tablespoonful of Lard. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A roast goose, properly preparerd, 
is a very savory dish, whether the 
fowl is wild or tame. But, as men- 
tioned above, the goose must be ten- 
der. If the breastbone yields easily 
to pressure and thg pinions are very 
tender, the legs smooth and yellow 
and free from feathers, the goose 
is young. In picking a goose never 
scald it, as this utterly ruins the 
flesh. The goose must be hapd 
picked. Then singe and clean, and 
season well and roast as you would 
a turkey, allowing, however, twenty- 
flve minutes to every pound. It may 
be served with a Giblet Sauce as 
roast chicken. Apple Sauce or Cur- 
rant Jelly is always served with 
Roast Goose,- preferably the Apple 
Sauce. Any stuffing used in baking a 
turkey may be used for roast goose, 
such as oyster or egg, etc. But the 
following is an excellent special 
dressing and seems to bring out more 
than any other the flavor of the 
goose. 

Take one cup of mashed potatoes, 
four apples, peeled nicely and cored, 
and four onions, one-half teaspoonful 
of sage, powdered well; one^half tea- 
spoonful of thyme, and pepper and 
salt to taste. Place the apples and 
onions and herbs in a saucepan and 
add water sufficiently to cover nicely. 
Let all cook together till soft. Then 
mash well and rub through a sieve. 
Add the cup of mashed potatoes and 
mix well, seasoning with salt and' 
pepper. Stuff the body and craw, 
sew up and truss the goose. Put_ 
into the roasting pan, rubbing a half 
tablespoonful of lard over it and 
pouring over a half cup of water, 
boiling. Baste the goose very fre- 
quently, say every ten minutes, so 
that it will be line, and juicy. It 
generally requires at least an hour 
and a half to roast well, but the rule 
of twenty-five minutes to the pound 
is a good one to follow. A "Green 



120 



Goose" is always best for roasting, 
but tliis must be covered from tlie 
beginning- with a piece of buttered 
paper, else it will brown before cook- 
ing. Serve with Apple Sauce. 

Goose naube. 

Oie en Daube. 
Prepare in exactly the same man- 
ner as Turkey Daube (see recipe). 
A goose that is not so young may be 
cooked a, la Daube. 

Goose a la Clitpolata. 

Oie a la Chipolata. 

1 Fine Young Goose. 

^ Pound of Chaurice. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 

1 Dozen Large Chestnuts, nicely 

roasted and skinned. 

1 Sprig Each of Thjrme and Bay Leaf. 

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

The Juice of 2 Lemons. 

4 or 5 Bits of Lemon Peel. 

2 Onions. 1 Pint of BoilingWater. 

% Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. 

1 Spoon of Flour. 

Place the lard or butter in the 
stewpot and when it melts add the 
onions, which have been nicely 
sliced. As they brown add the goose, 
which has been cleaned, singed and 
nicely cut at the Joints into pieces, 
and well rubbed with salt and pep- 
per, and the sausage, which must 
be cut in halves. Let simmer for 
about ten minutes, until every por- 
tion is slightly browned, and then 
add the minced herbs and garlic. Af- 
ter three minutes add the spoonful 
of flour, mixing virell, and let it all 
simmer for ten minutes longer, then 
pour in the can of mushrooms and 
their water, and add immediately 
the chestnuts. Let the goose cook 
till tender and serve hot. 

Fat liivers, 

Des Foies Gras. 
The livers of geese that have been 
caged tightly, so that they can make 
no movement, and which have been 
kept in a very high temperature, 
much higher than that of the atmo- 
sphere — geese which have been de- 
prived of every ray of light — are 
used for the famous dish, "Foies 
Gras," The French flrst discovered 
this manner of caging geese, doing 
it at their ancient stronghold of 
Strasbourg. At Toulouse the livers 
of tame ducks were treated in the 
same manner. The Creoles, descend- 
ants of the French, brought over the 
custom to the old French colony of 
Louisiana, whence it has spread to a41 
portions of the United States. Be- 
fore the war, on the spot now 
known as the New Orleans Fair 
Grounds, there was a famous "Foie 
Gras" farm. It was kept by an old 
Creole woman, and she made a for- 
tune from the profits. She followel 
the old French method of caging the 



geese so tightly that often, as In 
Strasbourg, the feet were nailed 
down, to prevent the least move- 
ment. The farm closed in 1861. 
While the livers of the geese or 
ducks become soft and fat under 
this treatment, the rest of the body 
suffers, and becomes so very fat 
that the goose flesh is good for 
nothing, or, as the Creoles say, "Plug 
bonne a, rien." Foies Gras are now 
sold in cans in every large grocery 
establishment in the United States, 
They come already cooked, in such 
shape that they can easily be made 
into any of the delectable dishes 
that so delight the old Creole or 
French "bon vivants." The most fa- 
mous of these dishes is the 

Patties of Foies Gras. 

Pat6 de Foie Gras. 

1 Terrine of Foies Gras. 

1 Pound of Fat Pork. 

1 Pound of Goose Fat. 

~% Can of Truffles.. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A Glass of Sherry 'Wine. 

A Puff Paste. 

Procure the fat livers of geese. 
'(They are no longer to be bought ex- 
cept already prepared in cans, Ter- 
rine de Foie Gras aux Truflles du 
'Perigord, Strasbourg.) To this allow 
one pound of fat pork and one pound 
of the fat of geese. Chop these and 
the livers very fine, allowing pound 
for pound of the fat meat and goose 
fat to the same quantity of livers. 
Season well with salt and pepper, 
and moisten it well with Sherry wine. 
Chop a half can. of truffles and, mix, 
and put all in a quart or pint meas- 
ure baking pan, which you will have 
lined with Puff Paste. (See recipe.) 
The pan must be about two and a 
half or ^ three inches deep. Bake 
this paste, and then flll in with the 
foies gras. Cover with a light cover 
of the dough, and decorate around 
the edges with the clippings of dough 
that remain. Place the pie in the, 
oven, and let it bake for about an 
hour to a nice brown, covering for 
the flrst three-quarters of an hour 
with a piece of paper, to prevent 
burning. When done, serve in the 
dish in which it was baked. This 
is the real Creole Pat6 de Foie Gras. 

Stewed Foies Gras. 

Foies Gras en Matelote. 

1 Terrine of Foies Gras. 

Thin Strips of Baron. 

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

1 Wineglassful of White Wine. 

2 Spoonfuls of 'French Brandy. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Get the prepared Foies Gras. Cut 
them into slices or filets. Lard them 
with a larding needle and then place 
at the bottom of the saucepan small 
strips of bacon, cut very thin and 



121 



fine. Add one carrot, nicely sliced; 
one onion, nicely sliced, and a ta- 
blespoonful of chopped parsley. Cover 
this with narrow strips of bacon, and 
moisten with sufficient white wine 
to cover well, and two spoonfuls of 
brandy. Add the juice of a lemon 
and let- it simmer well for a few 
minutes. Then add the livers, and 
let them simmer for ten minutes 
longer. Season to taste, cook five 
minutes more and serve hot. In sea- 
soning the Ivers prepared m this 
manner must always have a stimu- 
lating taste. 

Loaf of Poles Gras. 

Pain de Foie Gras. 

roles. Gras. % Can of Mushrooms. 

% Can of Truffles. 2 Shallots. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley 

and Bay Leaf. 

1 Leaf of Rose Geranium. 

^ Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cinnamon, 

Allspice. Cloves and Mace. 

1 Young Sweetbread. 

% Cup of the Soft of Bread. 

The Yolk of an Egg. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Choose sufficient livers for the 
number of guests, for this is never 
an every-day dish, and place them 
in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of 
butter. Let them simmer gently and 
add a half can of mushrooms and 
a quarter of a can of truffles, two 
shallots, nicely minced;, a sprig each 
of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, 
minced fine; salt and pepper to taste, 
and a half teaspoonful of prepared 
mustard; the leaf of one geranium, 
minced fine, and a quarter teaspoon- 
fill each of ground cinnamon, all- 
spice, cloves and mace. Mix this 
thoroughly and let it simmer in the 
juice of the mushrooms for about 
twenty minutes. Then take a young 
sweetbread and cook according to 
recipe for Plain Pried Sweetbreads, 
and add a half cup, of the soft of 
the bread, well moistened with milk. 



Mix this with the hashed sweet- 
breads, and add the yolk of an egg. 
Place this in a mortar with the 
foies gras and mix well. Then turn 
into a pan and brush lightly with 
the beaten yolk of an egg, and 
sprinkle grated bread crumbs over. 
Set in a pan of boiling water (Bain- 
marie), and bake in the oven for 
about a half hour. 

Foles Gras Loaf Jellied, 

Pain de Foies a, la Gel6e. 

Foles Gras.' 1 Slice of Fat Fresh Pork. 

1 Slice of Lean Pork (Grated.) 

Va Can of Mushrooms. 

Vi Can of Truffles. 

1 Calf's Foot. 1 Bay Leaf. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

Vi Teaspoonful of Ground Allspice, Cinnamon 

Cloves and Mace. 

% Cup of the Soft of Bread. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Bits of Lemon Peel. 

1 Tablespoonful of French Brandy. 

This ,is prepared in exactly the 
same manner as the above, only the 
sweetbreads are omitted, and in their 
place is added an egg, well beaten, 
and a piece of grated lean and fat 
fresh pork meat. Add a half can of 
mushrooms again and a quarter of a 
can of truffles, and a piece of calf's 
foot. Cook into a mixture of the 
consistency of gravy, mash well and 
strain in a sieve after seasoning very 
highly; add the Juice. Let this sim- 
mer for about five minutes and add 
the pint of boiling water. Set upon 
the back of the stove, and let -it 
cook for about two hours, or an 
hour and a half, according to the 
age of the goose, throwing in the bits 
of lemon peel. When done, skim 
carefully of all grease, and at the 
moment of serving add the juice 
of one lemon to the mixture and 
serve. This is a very rich dish, and 
is served as an entrfee. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



PIGEONS. 



Pigeons. 



Pigeons are of two kinds, those 
of the dovecot and those that are 
shot on the wing, commonly called 
doves. The latter are always broiled, 
just as one would broil any ' other 
bird or a tenderloin beefsteak; else 
they are roasted in little bands, of 
bacon. The former are prepared in 
various ways, as, indeed, the latter 
njay be also, only the wild taste is 
more apparent when broiled or 
roasted. 

Broiled Pigeons. 

Pigeons Grill^es. ■ 

or 8 Young Squno. 

3 Tatilespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 

6 or 8 Pieces of Buttered Toast. 

The Juice o£ 1 Lemon. 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Squab are always best for broiling. 
Pluck and clean nicely inside and out. 
Wipe with a damp towel. Split down 
the back and spread open as you 
would a broiled chicken. Have the 
gridiron very hot. Rub the pigeon 
inside and out with salt and pepper, 
and brusli lightly with butter. Place 
the broiler over a moderate furnace 
fire, from which all the gas has 
been exhausted, and let it broil slow- 
ly ten minutes on the inner side and 
Ave minutes on the outer. In the 
meantime toast a piece of bread for 
every pigeon that you broil. Moisten 
well with butter. Place the squab 
upon the toast, allowing one squab 
for each piece of toast, sprinkle with 
chopped parsley and butter, and serve 
hot. It is always well to rub the 
pigeon with a little lemon juice, as 
that renders the flesh nice and white. 

Broiled Pigeons a la Crapaudine. 

Pigeons a. la Crapaudine. 

4 Pigeons. The Tolk of an Egg. 

1 Cup o£ Mlik. 1 Tablespoonful of Batter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A Tomato Sauce. 

This is a famous Creole dish, and 
the object is to so dress the pigeons 
that they will resemble little frogs, 
hence the name, "Pigeons a. la Crap- 
audine." 

Clean the pigeons nicely, inside and 
out, and then carefully cut the 
breast from the loin joints, without 
separating entirely. Raise the breast 
up from the shoulder joints, and pass 
it over the head of the pigeon, with- 



out separating it from the shoulders. 
Then press it down very firmly with; 
your hands or a masher. Have ready 
the yolk of one egg, well beaten in 
a cup of milk. Season well with 
salt and pepper. Soak the pigeons in 
it well, so that they will absorb ,the 
milk and be thoroughly impregnated 
Roll over and over, so that they will 
gather up the seasoning. Then pass 
them through bread crumbs, rolling 
and then patting each pigeon with 
your hands, so that the crumbs will 
hold. Brush each with a little 
melted butter. Have ready a double 
broiler, Tvell heated, but on a slow 
fire. Place the pigeons on it, broil- 
ing very slowly. Broil for fifteen 
or twenty minutes, allowing from 
seven to ten minutes to each side, ' 
and serve with Tomato Sauce. (See 
recipe.) 

Roasted Squal). 

Pigeons Rotis sur CanapSs. 

6 or 8 Young Squab. 

6 or 8 Thin Slices of Fat Bacon. 

4 Tablespoonfnls of Butter. 

Truffles (if desired.) 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. 

6 or 8 Slices of Buttered Toast. 

Use squab only for roasting. Clean 
nicely, and then truss the pigeon as 
you would a turkey, only use wooden ; 
skewers to hold the wings and legs 
in place. Take a slice of nice fat: 
pork and fasten it around the body, 
of each pigeon, passing over the 
breast. Put a bit of butter about 
the size of a pecan in each bird, and, 
if you can afford to do so, you may 
stuff with truffles. But this is a mat- 
ter of taste. Put the pigeons in the 
roasting pan, and add a tablespoonful 
of butter and about two tablespoon- 
fuls of water. The oven should be 
hot, but must not be scorching. Baste 
the birds frequently, and let them 
roast from fifteen to twenty min- 
utes, according to their size. Pre- 
pare toasted bread, one slice for 
each pigeon. Butter well, and then 
remove the fat pork and place the 
pigeons on the toast. Pour ovp 
each a little of the gravy which has 
been made in the roasting pan, al- 
lowing it to soak into the bread. 
Serve hot, with a jelly, preferably 
Cranberry Sauce. (See recipe.) 



123 



Compote of Pigeons. 

Pigeons en Compote. 

6 Fine Fat Squab. A. Halt Can of MushroomB. 
1 Glove ot Garlic. 
2 Sprigs Each of Xbyme and Parsley, 
1 Bay Lest. 1 Onlou. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Wbite Wine. 
1 Tablespoouful of Butter. 
% Gup of Consomine. 
Clean the squabs nicely; singe, draw 
and truss, ■with their legs inside. Rub 
well with salt and pepper and three 
cloves, ground very fine, and three 
allspice, also ground very fine. Take 
a tablespoonful of butter and melt 
In a saucepan. Add the sliced onion, 
and as it browns add the sliced car- 
rot. Let this simmer gently for 
three or four minutes, and then add 
a minced sprig of thyme, and parsley, 
and one bay leaf, and the clove ot a 
garlic, minced very fine. Let all this 
brown, and then place on tpp the pi- 
geons, which you will have bound in 
thin strips of bacon tied around the 
body. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
white wine and cover well. Let this 
simmer for about fifteen minutes, till 
the pigeons are nicely browned, and 
then add a half cup of consommfi if 
you have it, if not, a half cup of 
boiling water. After ten minutes add 
a half can of mushrooms. Let all 
simmer gently for an hour longer, 
being careful not to let the pigeons 
go to pieces. Watch, therefore, very 
carefully. Place each pigeon on a 
slice of toasted Croflton, and garnish 
with the mushrooms. Pour over the 
gravy, and serve hot. This is a 
most excellent compote. 

Squab With Green Peas. 

Pigeons fitoufffis aux Petit Pois. 

3 Pigeons. 1 Pint of Gieen Peas. 

% Incli of Ham. 2 Onions. 

1 Tablespoonful ot Butter. 

IBay Leaf. 

1 Sprig Eaeli of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Glove of Garlic. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean the pigeons nicely, leaving 
them whole, as you would a fowl 
that is to be roasted, and truss nice- 
ly. Take two onions and slice well, 
a^d place in a saucepan with a ta- 
blespoonful of melted butter. Let 
them brown slightly, and lay the pi- 
geons that have been rubbed well 
with salt and pepper, inside and out, 
oji top of the onions. Cover closely 
and let them smother. Then add for 
one pigeon one-half or one-quarter 
ot an inch of nice ham, minced very 
fine, to give a good seasoning. Then 
add one sprig of thyme and one bay 
leaf, and the clove of a garlic, minced 
very fine. Let this smother very 
slowly for ten or fifteen minutes. 
When well browned, moisten with a 
cup of consommS or broth, and add 
one pint of fresh green peas, or one 
can. Cover tight, and let all simmer 



over a slow Are for one hour, or 
more if the pigeons are not very 
tender. Serve on a platter, placing 
the pigeons in the center and heaping 
the green peas around. This is 
delicious, ahd the real Creole method 
of cooking pigeons with green peas. 

Pigeons and Crawflsh, 

Pigeons a, la Cardinale. 

3 Pigeons. 2 Dozen Grawflsb. 

1 Slice of Fat Bacon. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 

1 'Onion. 1 Carrot. 1 Herb Bouquet. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Tuste. 

Clean the pigeons nicely, and rub 
inside and out with the juice of a 
lemon. Then rub with salt and pep- 
per, and brush with melted butter. 
Place thin strips of fat bacon in the 
bottom of a saucepan, lay the pi- 
geons on this, and cover with another 
thin layer of strips of bacon. Cover 
with butter and set in a slow oven, 
and let them simmer gently. In the 
meantime prepare a "PoSle" as fol- 
lows: Take a small square inch of 
ham, chop or mince very fine, and 
'■ fry in a tablespoonful of butter. Add 
an onion and a carrot, chopped fine. 
Let these brown, and then add an 
herb bouquet, minced very fine. When 
brown, add a cup of bouillon, and let 
it boil for ten minutes. Pour this 
sauce over the baking pigeons, and 
let them cook slowly for about an 
hour, or until done. In the meantime 
boil about two dozen nice crawfish,, 
according to recipe (see Crawfish), 
and, when the pigeons are done, place 
them on buttered Crofltons and place 
between each a garnish of crawfish. 
Add about a half cup of the broth 
in which the crawfish have been 
boiled to the gravy in the baking 
dish. Let it simmer for five minutes 
till reduced slightly, and pour over 
the pigeons. This is Creole to the 
letter. 

Pigeon Pic, 

Vol-au-Vent de Pigeons. 
6 Toung Wild rigcons. 
1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful ot Lard. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Sprig Each Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. 
Pie Paste. 
Clean and' cut the young pigeons 
into small pieces of about two inches. 
In length and make a plain fricassee. 
(See Fricassee Brown Gravy.) Pre- 
pare a Vol-au-Vent Paste (see recipe) 
and fill a tin pan of about two quarts, 
with the paste. Pour in pigeons and 
gravy, a,nd let bake in the oven till 
the top crust is nicely browned. Al- 
ways bake the under crust first. This 
is a delightful entrSe at any feast. 
Again, the pie may be prepared as 
follows: After cleaning the pigeons, 
stuff each daintily with oyster or 
egg dressing and then loosen the, 
joints with a knife without separat- 



124 



ing them. Put into a stewpan and 


per. Fill the pie dish with the pie 


make a plain fricassee as above in- 


paste; put in the birds, pour over 


dicated. Let them cook until ten- 


t«e gravy, cover with a crust and 


der, and season with salt and pep- 


bake. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



game:. 



Gibier. 



The number and variety of the 
game of the Louisiana forests have 
been the subject of many a magazine 
and newspaper article, and the admi- 
ration and joy of the chasseurs, or 
hunters, from earliest days. Our 
birds alone are so distinct and re- 
markable that the great Audubon de- 
voted his life to their study, and 
his volume on the birds of Louisiana 
stands out as the greatest work ex- 
tant upon birds. The fact is, that all 
through the year, from January to 
December, fancy game may be found 
in the New Orleans markets, though 
the game laws are very strict, and 
no bird is allowed to be shot out of 
season. 

The venison brought to New Or- 
leans from the woods of St. Tam- 
many's forest and the Teche rivals in 
flavor that of any section, and to 
leave New Orleans without having 
eaten "Filet de Chevreuil k la Poi- 
vrade," or "Salmi de Chevreuil a, la 
CrSole," is to have lost, in the opin- 
ion of old Creole gourmets, half the 
pleasure of your visit. In the same 
manner your visit would be consid- 
ered a failure if you failed to eat 
our famous Louisiana bird, "Paba- 
botte k la Crfiole," or our noted 
"Cailles de Laurier Roties," or Snipe, 
in that wonderful dish. "BScassine 
Saut6e a, la Creole"; or our distinct- 
ive Mallard and Canvasback Ducks, 
in "Salmi de Canards Frangais," or 
"Salmi de Canards Chevals." 

The following are the most ac- 
cepted methods of preparing our ' 
"Fancy Game." The Picayune uses 
the words "Fancy Game" because, 
whil'' blackbirds and all such game 
as are commonly found in forests 
abound in Louisiana, there is always 
such an abundance of our famous 
wild ducks, Poule d'Eau, Quail, Paba- 
botte. Snipe, Woodcock, Grassets, 
Larks,' Robins, Reed Birds and other 
delicious game in their season, that 
even the humblest seldom think of 
placing any other upon their tables. 
Our hunting clubs are many, and 
the Creole chasseurs, from the high- 



est to the lowest rank, are famous 
shots, bagging great quantities of 
game while on the hunt, and often 
as not courteously supplying the ta- 
bles of their neighbors for squares 
around when they return from their 
weekly sport. It is quite the proper 
thing among ancient families, when 
the gentlemen go on a hunt, for 
them to send, upon their return, a 
pair of Teal, Mallard or Canvasback 
Ducks, or a dozen Quail or Paba- 
bottes, BSoassines or BScasses, to 
Madame or Mademoiselle So-and-So, 
"Avec les Compliments de Monsieur 

, le Chasseur." These pretty 

little neighborly courtesies are among 
the most delightful forms of life in 
the Old French Quarter. 



Soiuetblns to Remember When Cook. 
Ing Game. 

Game should never be fried. This 
is horrible. The larger game is 
roasted or broiled, or, as with ducks 
and venison, squirrels and rabbits, 
made into stews or "salmis." The 
smaller game is roasted or broiled. 

VENISOJf. 

Du Chevreuil. 

The meat of Venison may be kept 
in cold weather at least ten or twelve 
days, if hung in a cold place; in 
warm weather for much less time, 
unless dried. The meat of fresh 
Venison is of a fine grain, and is al- 
ways nicely covered'fldvith fat. The 
age of the deer can always be told 
by examining the hoofs; if it is 
young, the hoofs will be very slightly 
opened; if old, they will stand apart. 
Of all meats. Venison cooks the most 
rapidly. Venison is always best 
when the deer has been killed in 
the autumn. Wild berries are then 
plentiful and the animal has then 
abundant opportunity to fatten upon 
this and other fresh, wild food.. 



125 



Roast Haunch of Venison, 

Cuissot de Chevreuil Roti. 

A Hauncb or Saddle of Venison. 
Melted Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Watercress to Garnish. Cnrrant Jelly, 
Prepare the haunch or saddle of 
Venison in the same manner as you 
would the roast beef. (See recipe 
Roast Beef.) Only pour a cup of 
water over the venison when put- 
tins in the oven, for it is a dry meat, 
and requires a little moistening if 
roasted. Bake in a quick oven, al- 
lowing ten minutes to the pound. 
A haunch of Doe Venison will re- 
quire in the aggregate half an hour 
less time to roast than Buck Veni- 
son. To prevent the hoof and hair 
just above changing color in cooking 
always bind this with a coarse piece 
of muslin, in four or five pieces of 
thickness, covering the hoof and hair. 
Wet with cold water, and bind a 
buttered paper tightly around and 
over it. Baste every ten minutes, 
with melted butter first, and then 
with the drippings of the Venison. 
When half cooked, turn the venison 
over, so that the other side ' may 
CBOk. Unbind the hoofs and garnish 
them with quilled paper. Place the 
venison on a dish garnished with 
Watercress. Serve with Currant 
Jelly. (See recipe.) 

Saddle of Venison, Currant Jelly 
Sauce, 

Selle de Chevreuil, Sauce Groseille. 
A Saddle of Venison Weighing About 5 Pounds. 
1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 
% Tablespoonful of Butter. 
% Glass of Madeira Wine. 
1 Gill of Consonwne. 
Cnrrant Jelly Sauce. 
Skin the Venison neatly and re- 
move all the sinews from the surface. 
Take fine larding needles and lard 
closely. Tie the saddle around four 
times. Slice the carrot and onion 
and put in the resting pan. Place 
the Saddle of Venison on top of these 
sprinkle lightly with a pinch of salt, 
and spread a half tablespoonful of 
butter over. Set in a brisk oven and 
roast for forty minutes, frequently 
basting the venison with its own 
gravy. Before taking it from the 
pan, remove the cord ■which binds 
It and place the saddle in a hot 
dish. Then pour the Madeira wine 
and a gill of veal consommS into the 
pan, set on the stove and let it come 
to a boil. Then skim the gravy of 
all fat and st5itjn over the veinson. 
Serve with a hot Currant Jelly Sauce 
as follows: Take a half pint of Cur- 
rant Jelly and stir till it is thor- 
oughly dissolved. Then put in a 
saucepan a wlneglassful of good old 
Port wine, and set on the stove and 
let It come gradually to a bdil. Add 
the currant jelly and mix tilj, thor- 



oughly dissolved; then add a table- 
spoonful of Sauce Espagnole (see re- 
cipe) and let it again come to a boil 
Serve with the venison, sending each 
to the table separately. 

Venison steaks broiled may also 
be served with this sauce The 

steaks are placed in a dish, one over- 
lapping the other; the hot sauce is 
poured over and thus sent to the 
table. 

Venison Steaks ft la Poivrade. 

Filet de Chevreuil a la Poivrade. 

6 Filets or as Many Filets as Desired. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Sauce Poivrade. 

The filets or Venison steaks are 
taken from any part of the Venison. 
The best are from the haunch or leg, 
and cut three-quarters of an inch iri 
thickness. Rub them well with salt 
and pepper, and then fry in butter, 
allowing about five minutes to the 
Steak. Venison must be served on 
a very hot dish and eaten hot. Place 
in a heated dish, and garnish with 
melted butter and chopped parsleyj 
and serve with' a Sauce Poivrade 
for Venison (see recipe), pouring the 
sauce over the steaks. This is a 
delicious dish. 

Venison Cutlets Broiled. 

Cotelettes de Chevreuil GrilUes. 

6 Venison Cutlets. 

2 TaWespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 

Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and • Pepper to Taste. 

Watercress to Garnish. 

Trim the cutlets nicely, rub well 
with salt and pepper, brush with a 
little butter, and broil over a quick 
clear fire, allowing about eight min- 
utes, or less, according to size, to each 
cutlet. They, must always, like all 
Venison, be underdone. When 
cooked, place in a very hot dish, 
pour over a little melted butter and 
'chopped parsley, garnish with water 
cress, and serve with Currant Jelly. 

Ste^ved Venison ft la Creole, 

Salmi de Chevreuil a. la Creole. 

Venison Steaks, or Rougher Part of the Deer, 

2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Clove of Garlic, Chopped Very Fine. 

1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 

1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. 

1 Can of Mushrooms. 

The rougher parts of Venison are 
usually used for stewing, but the 
dish is most delicious when made of 
the Venison steaks. Cut the Veni- 
son into two-inch square pieces, and 
rub well with salt and pepper. Chop 
two onions very fine, and put them in 
a stewpan with a tablespoonful of 
melted butter. Let them brown 
slightly; then add the Venison meat. 
Let it brown slightly, and then add 
one tablespoonful of flour, and let 



126 



tbSs. brown a little.. Chop the square 
inch of ham very fine, mincing it, and 
add. Then add the clove of garlic, 
and two sprigs each of thyme and 
parsley and a bay leaf, minced fine. 
l..et this Drown nicely, and pour over 
one glass of good Claret. Let this 
cook for ten minutes, stirring it con- 
stantly, so that it will not burn, and 
then add one cup of boiling water. 
Stir well, season again to taste, and 
let it boil for thirty, minutes, and 
serve hot. This dish will be im- 
proved beyond estimation if a can 
of mushrooms is added, immediately 
after adding the water.. But it may 
be made without the mushrooms. 
Serve very hot. 

Yenison, Hunters' Style. 

Chevreuil k la Chasseur. 

' 3' Pounds of Venison Meat. 

Z TablespoonfulB of Butter. 

1 'Onion. 1 Square Incli of Ham. ' 

1 TaUespoonful of Flour. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 

2 Bay Leaves. 

% Box of Mushrooms. The Zest of a Lemon. 

1 Glass of White Wine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Croutons to Garnish. 

Cut the venison into pieces of 
about two inches square. Salt and 
pepper well. Put two tablespoonfuls 
of butter into a saucepan with the 
venison and let it brown slowly. 
When nearly brown, add an onion, 
chopped fine, and let this brown 
slightly; then add the ham, minced 
very fine, and the clove of garlic and 
bay leaves and thyme, minced very 
fine. Stir in with the rabbit and let 
these brown for about two minutes. 
Then add a tablespoonful of flour 
and brown for a few minutes more. 
Add a half bottle of White Wine and 
let all simmer for five rtiinutes. Then 
add a quart of consommfe or water 
and let all cook for about one hour. 
Season again according to taste and 
add a half can of mushrooms 
chopped fine and the zest of a lemon 
and season again to taste. Let all 
cook a half hour longer and serve 
on a hot dish with CroQtons fried in 
butter. • ■ . 

Stewed Venison, French Style. 

Civet ae Chevreuil k la Frangaise. 

2% Pounds of Venison, (the lower and lean 

part preferable.) 

A Handful of Parsley. 1 Onion. 

t SpMg of Tbyjne. -2 Bay Leaves. 

12 Whole Peppers. A Half Glass of Vinegar. 

1% Glass of Claret. 

1 Pint of Veal Consomme. 

1 Ounce of Salt Pork. 12 Small Onions. 

1 Dozen and a Half -Mushrooms. 

1 Herb Bouquet. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. Croutons. 

Cut the venison into small pieces 
of about two inches square. Make a 
"Marinade" by placing the venison 
in an earthen jat "with one large 
onion sliced, a haudful of parsley. 



the chopped thyme and- bay leaf, the 
whole peppers, a light seasoning of 
salt and black pepper, and the vine- 
gar; Let the venison marinate for 
twelve hours. Then drain It from the 
juice and place it in a saucepan with 
one tablespoonful of the best butter, 
and let it brown over a moderate 
Are. After ten minutes add three ta- 
blespoonfuls of flour and stir con- 
stantly. Then moisten with the con- 
somme and the claret. Season again 
to taste with satt and pepper, and 
stir until it comes to a boil. Then 
add -the small onions which have been 
nicely peeled, and one ounce of salt 
pork and the herb bouquet. Let all 
cook about forty minutes, and about 
five minutes' before serving add the 
mushrooms. Take the herb bouquet 
from the preparation; place the latter 
on a hot dish and decorate nicely 
with tbasted Crotltons, and serve hot. 

Tenison In a Chafing; Dish. 

Chevreuil au Rfechaud. 

8 or 10 Slices of Venison. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, 
1 Tablespoonful of Currant Jelly. 
1 Tablespoonful of Water. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

This is a most delicious way of 
preparing Venison. The old Creoles 
use, if a chafing dish is not avail- 
able, a little alcohol lamp and a fry- 
ing pan. Even the humblest families 
can thus enjoy- this delightful disli. 
Slice the venison very thin in pieces 
about two inches long a,nd one inch 
wide, and about- the thickness of a 
silver dollar. Have the chafing dish 
or alcohol lamp on the dining table, 
as you sit to eat. The pan must be 
very hot. The meat must be well- 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and 
ready to put into the pan. Put a 
tablespoonful of butter into the dish. 
Let it get very hot, without burning. 
Put the, slices of Venison in tli^ disli. 
In one minute turn them over. Take 
a tablespoonful of melted butter, and 
blend w.ell with a tablespoonful of 
Currant Jelly and a tablespoonful of 
water. Spread this over the cooking 
Venison. Turn again. Let it cook 
for five minutes only, and serve very 
hot. -This is one of the finest old- 
fashioned Creole dishes, and is good 
for breakfast, luncheon or supper. 
Bear in mind that to be efCeotiye It 
must be made at the table, as it will 
lose half its flavor if brought from 
the kitchen to the table.- 

Venison Hash. 

Hachis de Chevreuil. 

3 Cups of Left Over VenlsOn. 
6 Potatoes. 1 ' Herb Banquets 
■ Salt ■ and -Pepper -to >Taste. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard .or Battel. < 

This "is a splendid way of utlllzrng 



127 



tjie left-over veniaon. After having 
taken off all the rough edges of the 
roast and cut out the gristle and 
hard membrane, hash the "Venison in- 
to pieces of about one-inch in size. 
Take six left-over tomatoes, or fresh- 
ly boiled, and cut into Quarters. Chop 
fine one herb bouquet. Place a table- 
spoonful of butter or a half table- 
spoonful of lard into the stewpot, 
and as it melts add the venison, sea- 
soned well, and a few minutes later 
the fine herbs. Mince the clove of a 
garlic if the flavor is liked and add. 
Stir constantly vsritliout browning 
'much, and add a tablespoonful of 
flour. Let this brown very slightly, 
and then add the tomatoes. Cover 
and let all simmer for about twenty 
minutes, and then pour over a pint 
of boiling water. Season again to 
taste and set back on the stove and 
let it simmer gently for about three- 
quarters of an hour. Cut some Crofl- 
tons and fry them in butter; place 
on a dish and serve with the hash. 
WILD TURKEY. 
Dinde Sauvage. 
The wild turkey abounds in Lou- 
isiana. It is roasted in the same man- 
ner as the domestic fowl (see recipe) 
and always served with Cranberry 
Sauce. (See recipe.) 

WILD DUCKS. 

Canards Sauvages. 

The wild ducks so much enjoyed in 
Louisiana are many, but the most fa- 
mous are the Canvasback Ducks, or 
"Canards Cheval," thS ipore delicate 
'Teal Ducks," or "Sarcelles," and 
the noted Mallard Ducks, or "Ca- 
nards Frangais." Then we have a 
soecies of water fowl palled the 
"Poule d'Eau," or water chicken, 
which lives exclusively in the waters 
xjf the Louisiana bayous and marshes; 
as it never comes on dry land, it has 
heen classed by the ancient Creoles 
among the fish, and is eaten on Fri- 
days and fast days, when flesh meat 
Is . prohibited to Catholics. 

in following the recipes given be- 
low, it must be borne in mind that 
all tame or domestic ducks may be 
cooked in the same manner as the 
wild ducks. For this reason it would 
tie superfluous to give a special sec- 
tion te the former. But the flavor of 
the wild duck is such that it is al- 
ways preferred on Creole tables as 
the sTiperior bird. Ducks are stewed 
or roasted. The wild goose, or "Oie 
Sayvage," is cooked in the same man- 
ner as the wild duck and the domes- 
tic goose. The "Duckling," or "Can- 
neton," in the same manner as the 
delicate 'Teal Duck" or "Sarcelle." 
' In cleaning all game, remember 
that they must be hand picked, and 
ne-irer scalded, as scalding utterly 
ruins their flavor. "Wild Duck should 
hot be dressed too soon after being 
killed. ■ 1 .1 I - -■ 



Canvasback Duck. 

Canard Cheval. 

Epicureans declare that the Can- 
vasback Duck Is the King of Birds. 
And as it feeds mostly on wild cel- 
ery, it requires no flavors or spices 
to make it perfect. The bird par- 
takes of the flavor of the celery 
on which it feeds. This delicious 
flavor is best preserved when the 
duck is roasted quickly with a hot 
fire. And so' also with the dainty 
Mallard or French Ducks. 

Mallard Ducks or Canvasback Ducks 
Roasted. 

Canards Frangais ou Canard Cheval 
Rotis. 

1 Pair of "Wild Ducks. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper 

to Taste. 

Clean the d.ucks as you would a 
chicken, without scalding, however, 
ninse out the inside and wipe well 
inside and out with a wet towel. 
But do not wash the duck unless you 
have broken the gall bladder, as the 
washing destroys their flavor. Rub 
the inside well with salt and pepper, 
and rub outside as thoroughly. Place 
a three-inch lump of butter on the 
inside. Truss nicely and place the 
ducks in a baking pan, and brush the 
tops with melted butter. Pour over 
two tablespoonfuls of water, and set 
in a very hot oven, and allow them 
to bake twenty minutes, if they are 
not very large, and thirty minutes, 
if larger than the ordinary size of 
Canvasback ducks. A wild duck" is 
never cooked dry. It must reach the 
point where the blood will not run 
if the flesh is pierced with the fork 
in carving. When done, place the 
ducks in a very hot dish, and serve 
with their own gravy poured over 
them. Garnish nicely with parsley 
or water cress. Serve with Currant 
Jelly. Always have the plates very 
hot in which you serve the ducks at 
table. 

Broiled Canvasback Ducks. 

Canards Cheval Grillfies. 

1 Pair of Ducks. 

1 Tablespoonful of Olive OU. 

Salt and Pepper. 

Drawn Butter Sauce. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Minced Parsley to Garnish. 

The Canvasback Duck is very ex- 
cellent when broiled. Hunters often 
serve it thus when on long hunts, 
and it is said the taste of the game 
just bagged is beyond estimate. 
Broiled Canvasbacks are served as 
follows on the Creole table: Clean 
the duck nicely, as for broiling a 
chicken, wipe well and split down 
the middle of 'the back in the same 
manner as for a chicken. Season 
well with salt and pepper. Rub the 



128 



duck well with olive oil of the best 
quality, and place on the broiler. 
Turn it over at least twice, so that 
It will cook thoroughly through and 
through without burning'. Let it 
cook from seven to ten n^inutes on 
either side. Place on a dish that is 
very hot, pour over a Drawn Butter 
Sauce, in which you will have 
squeezed the juice of a lemon, and 
mixed some minced parsley. Deco- 
rate with water cress or parsley 
sprigs. Bring to the ' table covered 
6,nd very hot, and serve on heated 
plates. This dish is very elegant. 

Stevrea 'Wild Ducks. 

Salmi de Canards Sauvages a, la 

Creole. 

1 Pair of Ducks. 

1 Square Inch of Ham. 2 Oniouia. 

1 lablespoonful of Butter. 1 Glove uf Garlic. 

1 Herb Bouquet Chopped Very Fine. 

1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. 

Clean and pijk the duckp nicely. 
Cut into joints, or stew whole, as 
desired. The Creoles generally cut 
them into joints. Rub well with salt 
and pepper. Chop two onions very 
fine. Put them into the stewpan 
with a tablespoonful of melted but- 
ter, and let them brown slightly. 
Then add the well-seasoned ducks. 
Let these brown well and add the 
one square inch of finely minced ham. 
Add the clove of garlic and two 
sprigs each of thyme, parsley and 
one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let 
this brown with the ducks, stirring 
frequently, and then pour over one 
good glass 'of claret. Let this sim- 
mer for ten minutes, stirring con- 
stantly, so that it will not burn, and 
add one cup of boiling water. Sea- 
son well to taste, and let the ducks 
simmer well for about an hour. 

Ducks Stevved "With Muslirooms. 

Salmi de Canards aux Champignons. 

1 Pair of Ducks. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 

2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 
1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fine. 
1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. 
1 Can of Mushrooms. 
Prepare the Ducks for cooking ex- 
actly as in the above recipe and pro- 
ceed to cook accordingly., Immedi- 
ately after adding the boiling water 
add' a can of mushrooms, and con- 
tinue cooking according to recipe. 
The mushrooms add a delicous flavor 
to the dish. Serve hot, using the 
mushrooms as a garnish. 

'Vl'Ud Ducks, Hunters' Style.' 

Salmi de Canards Sauvages a, la 
Chasseur. ^ 

2 Fine Canvas-Back Ducks. 
% Pint of 'Veal Broth or Water. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Dozen Mushrooms. Sliced, 

3 Fresh or Canned Tomatoes. 

1 Onion. 
% Glass of Madeira Wine or Lemon Juice. 



% Pl'jt of Sauce Espagnole. 
The Zest of 1 Lemon. 
Croutons. 
Pick the ducks; singe, draw, and, 
after rinsing clean within, wipe neat- 
ly within and without; cut off the 
wings, legs and breasts; then take 
the two carcasses and sprinkle right- 
ly with salt and place in the oven 
to bake about six minutes. Then re- 
move the carcasses and hash them 
up. Put them into the saucepan; 
add a pint of veal broth, consommfr 
or water in lieu of either of these. 
Add a herb bouquet tied together] 
and let the preparation simmer for 
about a quarter of an hour over a 
moderate fire. Put a tablespoonful 
of butter into a saucepan, and lay in 
the wings, breasts and legs of the 
Ducks; season lightly with salt and 
pepper, and set on a very brisk Are 
and let cook (or a few minutes, on 
either side. Now add a half glassful 
of Madeira wine and a half pint of 
Sauce Espagnole and the grated zest 
of a lemon. Take the gravy from 
the carcasses and strain over the 
Ducks, and allow all to cook about a 
quarter of an hour. Then place on 
a hot dish and decorate nicely wi,th 
Crofltons fried in butter and cut in 
dice shape. 

Ducks ft la Bonr^eoise. 

Salmi de Canards a. la Bourgeoise. 
2 Fine Canvas-Back Ducks. 

1 Tablespoonful, of Butter. 
3 Tomatoes (fresh or canned). 
12 Onions. 2 Carrots. 

% Glass of Madeira Wine. 
The Zest of 1 Lemon. 
Vi Pint of Sauce Espagnole. 
% Pint of Consomme or Water. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Pfepare the Ducks, ajid cook ac- 
cording to above recipe. After plac- 
ing finally in the saucepan, add 
■ twelve small onions which have been 
nicely glazed (see recipe "Glaze"); 
add the two carrots cut into small 
dice and which have been cooked in 
salted water for two minutes, be- 
fore adding to the ducks; also add 
a half ounce of salt pork cut into 
half-inch pieces. Let these cook for 
fifteen minutes with the ducks and 
serve on a hot dish with Crofltons. 
Stewed Ducks 'Wlfh Turnips. 
Salmi de Canards aux Navets. 
1 Pair of Ducks. 6 Turnips. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Onions, Chopped Fine. 

1 Sqpare Inch of Ham, Minced Very Fine. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

This is one of the most delightful 
w^ys:"of cooking wild ducks. The 
turnip blends well with the flavor of 
the wi^d ducks, and a nicer way of 
serving this vegetable In combination, 
does not exist. Clean the Ducks, and. 



129 



cut into pieces at the joints. Put a 
tablespoonful of butter into the pot, 
and as it melts, add the onions, 
chopped fine. Let this brown, and 
then add the pieces of Ducks. Let 
them brown, and add the minced 
ham. Immediately after add the tur- 
nips, sliced or cut in quarters, a ta- 
blespoonful of sifted flour. Stir 
well, let the flour brown slightly, 
and add the minced thyme, parsley 
and bay leaf, and one clove of gar- 
lic, minced very fine. Stir well 
again, and let it smother for about 
fifteen minutes, stirring frequently, 
so that it will not burn. Then add 
water, almost sufficient to cover the 
Ducks, and stir well. Cover tight, 
and let the mixture smother for a 
halt hour longer. You will have one 
of the nicest dishes that ever graced 
a table. 

Wild Ducks Wltb Olives. 

Salmi de Canards aux Olives. 

3 Cups of Left-Over Duck. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Onion. 

E Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Cup of Broth or Water. 

1 Glass of Claret. 

2 Dozen Spanish Olives. 

Toasted Croutons. 
This is a nice way to utilize the 
left-over Duck; take all the remains 
of the Duck and selcet the good 
parts, and cut them into pieces of 
about an inch and a half square. Put 
a tablespoonful of butter into the 
stewpan, and, as it browns, add one 
onion, chopped fine. Let this brown 
and then add the Duck. Stir well; 
add the tablespoonful of sifted flour, 
stir again, and in four or five minutes 
add two sprigs each of thyme and 
parsley and one bay leaf, minced very 
fine. Let this brown well, and 
smother nicely for about ten minutes. 
Add a pint of good broth if you have 
it; if not, a cup of boiling water. 
Stir well, and season again accord- 
ing to taste. Pour in a half glass of 
good Claret, and add about two dozen 
fine olives, stoned. Let all boil for 
thirty minutes longer, and serve hot, 
with garnish of diamond-shaped 
toasted Crofltons. 

Stewed Ducks, Peasant Style. 

Salmi de Canarcis a, la Paysanne. 

1 Pair of Fine Ducks, French or Canvas-Back. 

1 Dozen Glazed Onions. 2 Carrots. 

1 Square Inch of Ham. 

1 Cup of Green Peas. 

1 Bay Leaf. 

2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 

The Zest of 1 Lemon. 

Prepare the Ducks exactly as in 



the recipe for "Stewed Ducks With 
Turnips (see recipe), only the turnips 
are omitted. Add two carrots cut 
into dice pieces, and twelve glazed 
onions and the green peas. A quar- 
ter of an hour before serving add 
a glass of Madeira wine. Serve on a 
hot disli, with Crofltons fried in but- 
ter, using the onions as a garnish 
with the Crofltons. 

SteTved Ducks, French Marshal Style. 

Salmi de Canards a. la Marechale 
Pratisalse. 

1 Pair of Fine Ducks, French or Canvas-Back, 
12 Godlveau Quenelles. 12 Mushrooms. 

2 Onions Chopped Fine. 1 Bay Leaf, 

3 Sprigs EacU of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Square Inch of Ham, 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 
Croutons to Garnish. 
Prepare the Ducks exactly as in 
the recipe for "Stewed Ducks With 
Turnips," omitting the turnips. Add 
ten minutes before serving, twelve 
small Godiveau Quenelles (see re- 
cipe) and the wine. Garnish the 
dish with Croutons (see recipe) and 
twelve nicely cooked mushrooms, 
cut in two. Send to the table hot. 

Cold Wild Duck. 

Canards Sauvages Froid. '• 
Remains of Cold Duck. , I 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. . 1 

■% Tumbler of Currant Jelly. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Port Wine. 
Cut the cold Wild Duck nicely in 
thick slices, and serve with a sauce 
made as follows: Take one table- 
spoonful of butter, one-half tumbler 
of Currant Jelly, and two tablespoon- 
fuls of good Port wine. Warm the 
butter in the saucepan, add the wine 
and jelly, thoroughly blended; mix 
well, and serve with the slices of cold 
duck. The duck may also be served 
very deliciously with Currant Jelly 
alone, and buttered toast. 

Teal Duck, J 

Sarcelle. 
The Teal Duck is the smallest and 
most delicate of the wild ducks. It 
is prepared in the same manner as 
the Mallard, preference, however, be- 
ing always given to roasting and 
'broiling, on account of its size. The 
Teal Duck is always broiled whole, 
without splitting on the back. 

Teal Ducks Roasted. 

Sarcelles Roties. 

3 Pairs of Teal Ducks. 

6 Thin Strips of Bacon. 

6 Truffles. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. 

6 Slices of Toast. 
Currant Jelly. 
Clean the duck nicely and put ono 



130 



,- truffle and a lump of butter about 

' the size of a peanut, with salt and 
pepper, on the inside. Rub well with 
salt and pepper and a little butter 
melted. Take a thin strip of bacon 
and bind it around the body of the 
duck, fastening with a skewer. Place 
a, tablespoonful of butter in the roast- 
ing pan, and pour about two table- 

' spoonfuls of water in it, dropping 
slightly over each bird. Set in a 

.•quick' o.Ven and bake for thirty min- 
utes, or until done. The l>ird 
should always be served umierdOne. 
Have ready • a hot dish, garnislied 

■with parsley, and a slice of toast 
buttered for each bird. Place the I 

•birds on them, sprinkle over chopped 
parsley, and take the juice in which \ 

•'the birds have been roasted, pour 'a j 
little over each bird, so that It sinks i 
down into the toast, and squeeze a 
little lemon juice over each, and serve 
hot. ' 

The truffle majr be omitted, but it < 

' is considered very elegant. The bird 
is just as good without, however, 
and it is within the reach of the 

■ poorest, simply for the hunting. Serve ; 
with Currant Jelly. 

Teal Duck Broiled. 

Sarcelle Grillfie. 

3 Paira of Teal Ducks. 

6 Strips of Bacon. 

Melted Butter. Chopped , Parsley. 

Olives and Slices of Lemon to Garnlsli. 

6 Slices ot Toast. 

Clean and prepare the duck in ex- 
actly the same manner as for- roast- : 

I Ing, binding with the strip of bacon. 

• Place on a broiler, turning frequent- 
ly, and let it broil for about thirty 
minutes, . very slowly. Serve with 
melted butter and chopped parsley' 
spread o^er, and the juice of a; 
lemon squeezed in. Garnish the dish 
nicely with sprigs of parsley, slices 
of lemon and olives. Serve with 
Currant Jelly. 

Teal Duck ft la Blgarade. 

Sarcelle S. la Bigarade.' 

3 Fairs of Teal Ducks. 
1 Brigarade or Sour Orange. 
Salt and Pepper to -Taste. 

A Sauce a I'Espagnole. 

Clean the ducks and take the livers 
and fry them in a little melted butter. 
Season well with salt and pepper and 
a slight pinch of ground allspice and 

■ cloves and the zest of a "bigarade," 
or sour orange. If the orange is not 
available, take the zest of a lemon. 
The zest Is the skin of the orange or 
lemon, scraped off without touching 
the inner pulp, or white skin. Place 
this in the interior of the ducks (you 

imust have the boiled livers of five 
or six for the garnishment of two 
ducks), and then rub the outside 
well with salt and pepper. Bind 

5 with a strip of bacon and place on 



the broiler. In about thirty rajnutej 
it win be done. Cook over a slow 
fire, turning frequently. In the mean- 
time prepare a "Sauce k I'Espagnole," 
and as soon as the birds are done 
pour off from the broiler all the juice 
that has fallen, and put this into 
the sauce, with the juice of two sour 
oranges or citrons. Let it warm with- 
out boiling, pour over the birds, 
which you have placed on buttered 
toast, and serve hot. This is an 
ancient Creole dish, almost lost in 
our day, but which deserves to be 
resurrected. 

Stewed Rabbit. 
Salmi de Lapins. 

A Fair ot Rabbits. 

2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful ot Butter. 

1 Clove of Garlic, Chopped Very Fine. 

1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 

1 Glass of Claret. ' 1 Cup of Water. 

1 Can of Mushrooms. 

Stewed rabbit is a great dish 
kmong the Creoles. They say that 
this is the only way to cook a rab- 
bit. Proceed as follows: 

Skin and clean the rabbit. Wash 
well and cut into pieces at the joints, 
and rub well -with salt and pepper. 
Chop two onions very fine, and put 
them in the stew^pan -with a table- 
spoonful of melted butter. Let them 
brow^n slightly; then add the rabbit. 
Let it brown slightly, and then adct 
one tablespoonful of flour, and let 
this brown a little. Chop the square 
inch of ham very fine, mincing it, 
and add. Then add the clove of gar- 
lic, and tw^o sprigs each of thyme 
and parsley and a bay leaf, minced 
fine. Let this brown nicely, and pour 
over one glass of good Claret. Let 
this cook for ten minutes, stirring 
it constantly, so that it will not burn, 
and then add one cup ot boiling wa- 
ter. Stir well, season again to taste, 
and let it boil for thirty minutes, and 
serve hot. Green peas or potatoes, 
boiled or mashed, make a nice entrSa 
for this dish. 

Rabbit, Hunters' Style. 

Lapin k la Chasseur. 

A Pair of Rabbits. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Onion. 1 Slice of Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs ot Thyme. 

2 Bay Leaves. 

% Box ot Mushrooms. The Zest of a Lemoli. 

Vi Bottle of Claret Wine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Croutons to Garnish. 

Prepare the rabbit; clean and 
■dra-w, and cut into pieces at the 
joints. Rub well with salt and pep- 
per; put a tablespoonful of butter 
into the saucepan with the rabbit and 
let it brown slowly. When nearly 
brown, add the onion, chopped fine, 



and let this brown sjightly. Then 
add the ham, minced very fine, and 
the clove and garlic ahd bay leaves 
and thyme, minced very fine. Stir 
with the rabbit, and let these brown 
for about two minutes; then add a 
tablespoonful of flour and brown for 
a .few minutes; add a half bottle of 
Claret wine and let all simmer for 
five minutes; then add a quart of 
conso-mm6 or water, an-d let all cook 
for about one hour. Season accord- 
ing to taste. Add a half can of 
mushrooms, chopped fine, and the 
iest of a lemon and again season to 
taste. Let all cook for a half hour 
longer and serve on a hot dish, with 
Crotttons. fried In butter. 

Rabbit en Matelote. 

Lapin en Matelote. 

A Pair of Rabbits. 
2 Tablespoonfuls ot Lard or Butted. 
2 Tablespoonfuls ot Floor. 
' 6 Fresh, Large Tomatoes, or a Half Can. 

1 Large Onion, Chopped Fine. 
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Sweet 'Marjoram, 

Parsley and Bay Leaf. 
t Glass of Good Claret, or the Juice of 1 
' Lemon. 
1 Quart of Water or Consomme. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A Bash pt Cayenne. 
Skin, clean, wash and out the rab- 
bit into pieces at the joints. Put the 
lard or butter into a deep stewpan or 
kettle. When hot, add gradually two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring con- 
stantly to prevent burning. Throw 
in about ten or twelve well-mashed 
allspice, and three sprigs each of 
chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf and 
sweet marjoram, one clove of garlic, 
and one large onion, chopped very 
fine. Add six fresh large tomatoes, 
chopped fine, or one-half can of to- 
matoes. Pour in one glass of good 
claret, add about one quart of water, 
and let it boil well. Then add salt 
and Cayenne to taste, and, when this 
has boiled about five minutes, add 
the rabbit, putting in piece by piece. 
Add the Juice of a lemon, and let all 
boil about ten minutes. Serve with 
French Pried Potatoes, Mashed Pota- 
toes, or Potato Croquettes. 

HARB. 

L16vre. 

The hare and the rabbit are very 
much alike, the . closest relationship 
existing between the two. The prin- 
cipal difference is that the rabbit is 
smaller in size than the hare, and its 
ears and legs are shorter. 
[ The hare may be cooked In almost 
any manner in which rabbits are 
served. There are, however, some 
special methods in vogue among the 
Creoles which are here appended. In 
preparing the hare for roasting, it 
should be first skinned, and then 
washed well in cold water and rinsed 



thoroughly in tepid water. If the 
hare seems a little musty from beini 
emptied before being hung up, rul 
the insides well with vinegar and 
again wash thoroughly In warm wa- 
ter. Prepare for cooking as you 
would a rabbit, wipe well with a soft 
towel, dress nicely, sew the animal 
up and truss it, and allow it to roast 
from three-quarters of an hour to 
one hour, according to size. Baste 
occasionally with butter, just before 
serving. Of late, the hare is much 
affected by epicures. Many con- 
sider the meat far more tender and 
of more deHcate flavor than the rab- 
bit. It is generally served with Cur- 
rant Jelly. 

Hare, Roasted and Stuffed. 

LiSvre Koti. 

2 Fine Hares. 3 Onjons. 

1 Carrot. 3 Apples. 

2 Ou&ces ot Sausage Meat. 

6 Mushrooms. 1 Lemon. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 

2 ClOTes. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 

1 Glass of White Wine or Cider. 

1 Pint of Consomme. ' 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Slices ot Bacon. 

% Tablespoonful ot Pepper, 

^ Tablespoourul of Salt. 

Croutons. 

Select two fine Hares, and cut 
them in half. Separate the hindquar- 
ters from the fore and then bone 
them down to the legs. Do not bone 
the legs. Place the Hares in an 
earthern dish that is quite deep, 
then make a marinade as follows: 
Pour in a glassful of white wine; 
add a small lemon nicely sliced, and a 
small onion minced fine, one sprig of 
thyme and one bay leaf, all minced 
very fine. Season this preparation 
with a tablespoonful of salt and a 
tablespoonful of pepper and two 
mashed cloves. Take the saddles of 
the Hares and roll them well in this,, 
and let the entire Hares steep well 
in the marinade for twelve hours. 

Chop an onion very fine and put it 
In a saucepan on the stove, and, 
when well heated, put in a table- 
spoonful of butter, cook for one min- 
ute, and then add two ounces of fine 
chaurice (sausage) (see recipe); 
chopped very fine; six mushrooms, 
chopped very fine; a teaspoonful of 
minced parsley, a teaspoonful of salt 
and a half teaspoonful of pepper; 
mix well and let all cook for about 
five minutes. Take three fine apples 
and cut them fine, carefully remov- 
ing the cores; place them in a clean 
saucepan .on the fire, with a half 
glassful of good White Wine or the 
best Cider. Let this boil about five 
minutes, and then add the stuffing 
and mix well together. Then set the 
mixture to cool. Take the . Hares 
from the marinade and stuff tha 



132 



boned saddles very carefully and 
evenly, and give a nice round, even 
shape; tie them' to keep tKem firm; 
then place a fine slice of bacon over 
each saddle, tying firmly. Cut up a 
carrot and onion into fine slices and 
place in the bottom of the roasting 
pan; lay the Hares over these and 
pour one pint of consommg over the 
Hares. Place them in a hot oven and 
roast for three-quarters of an hour, 
basting frequently with their own 
gravy. Then remove from the oven 
and untie. Place the Hares on a 
hot dish nicely decorated with dice- 
shaped Crofltons, and pour the gravy 
over the Hares and serve very hot. 

Hare, . Creole Style. 

Civet de LiSvre a. la Creole. 

1 Fine, Tender Hare 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Large Onion. 1 Dozen Small Onions^ 

3 Tomatoes. 

1 Ounce of Minced Ham. 

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 

% Glass of White Wine. 

% Glass of Red Wine. 

1% Tablespoonfuls of Salt. 

1^ Tablespoonfuls of Pepper. 

1 Pint of Consomme or Water. 

Skin, clean, draw and thoroughly 
wash a fine tender Hare. Preserve 
the liver and heart. Cut the Hare 
Into pieces at the joints. Make a 
marinade by taking a half glass of 
White "Wine, one large finely-sliced 
onion, the thyme and bay leaves 
(finely minced), and place in a stone 
jar. Add a, half teaspoonful of 
grated nutmeg and a tablespoonful 
of salt, and place in this mixture the 
cut-up Hare, and let all steep for 
six hours. Then lift the pieces out 
carefully; have 1-eady a saucepan into 
which you will have placed a tea- 
spoonful of butter, and add twelve 
small onions, glazed (see recipe); 
one ounce of ham, minced fine; put 
the Hare into the pan and let all 
brown nicely for about ten minutes. 
Then add the flour, finely rubbed, stir 
well and let brown. Add the toma- 
toes, peeled and sliced fine; let all 
brown ten minutes longer, and add 
the red wine and the consomm§ or 
water. Stir till it begins to boil; 
then season according to taste, with 
salt and pepper. Let all cook for 
three quarters of an hour, and add 
the heart and liver, which you will 
have finely chopped and thoroughly 
mixed together. Let all cook for 
a quarter of an hour longer and 
serve with toasted Crofltons. 



Stewed Bare With Onions. 

Gibelotte de LiSvre. 

1 Fine Hare. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Large Onion. 1 Dozen Small Onlonj. 

1 Ounce of Ham. 

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 

1 Glass of White W^ine. 

% Can of Mushrooms. 

1 Pint of Consomme or Water. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Prepare in exactly the same man. 
ner as above indicated, only do not 
use the tomatoes or red wine; use 
instead of the claret, one pint of 
broth or consommfi, and add a half 
can of mushrooms about ten minutes 
before serving. 

Filet of Hare, Sauce Polvrade. 

Filet de Lifivre, Sauce Poivrade. 
2 Fine Hares. 2 Onions. 

2 Carrots. A Half Glass of White Wloe. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. 

1 Cup of Broth or Water. 

Sauce a la Polvrade, 

Take two fine Hares, clean neatly 
and cut the filets neatly from the 
rack. Lard the surface carefully with 
fine needles. Season well with salt 
and pepper. Make a marinade witti 
half a glass of White wine, one onion 
and one carrot, minced very fine. Let 
all steep together for two hours; then 
place the butter or lard in a baking 
dish, ■with an onion and carrot, sliced 
fine. Put the filets of Hare over this 
and set in the oven and let it cook 
for a half hour. Baste frequently 
with the Hare's own juices. Place 
the filets "on a hot dish, add a table- 
spoonful of broth to the* gravy ia 
which the Hares were cooked; let 
all come to a boil on the stove; strain 
the gravy and pour over the filets. 
Bring to the table hot and serve with 
a Sauce a, la Poivrade. 

SteTfed Squirrel. 

Salmi d'ficureuil. 

A Pair of Squirrels. 
2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. ' 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 

1 Clove of Garlic, Chopjed Very Fine. 

1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 

1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water. 

1 Can of Mushrooms. 

Skin and clean the Squirrels; wash 
well and cut into pieces at the joints. 
Chop two onions very fine and put 
them in a stewpan with a table- 
spoonful of melted butter. Let them 
brown slightly; then add the Squir- 
rel. Let it brown slightly, and then 
add one tablespoonful of flour, and 
let this brown a little. Chop the- 
.square inch of ham very fine, mlnclng- 
It, and add. Then add the clove of 
garlic, and two sprigs each of thym& 



133 



and parsley and a bay leaf, minced 
fine. Let this brown nicely, and p<fur 
over one glass of good Claret. Let 
this cook for ten minutes, stirring it 
■constantly, so that it will not burn, 
and then add one cup of boiling wa- 
ter. Stir well, season again to taste 
and let it boil for thirty minutes 
and serve hot. This dish will be im- 
proved beyond estimation if a can 
of mushrooms is added immediately 
after adding the water. But it is 
very nice without the mushrooms. 
Serve very hot. 



jSquirrel, Hnnters' Style. 

iSoureuil a la Chasseur.. 
Procure two fine Squirrels, and pre-r 
pare in exactly the, same manner as 
in the recipe, "Rabbit, Hunters' 
Style." (See recipe.) 

Squirrel en Matelote. 

£;oureull en Matelote. 

Procure two fine Squirrels, and pre- 
pare in exactly the same manner as 
in the recipe for "Rabbit en Mate- 
lote." (See recipe.) 



CHAPTER XIX. 
BIRDS. 



Des Oiseaux. 



As already mentioned, Louisiana 
points with pride to the quality and 
variety of the Birds found in her 
forests. Fine game birds are al- 
ways heavy for their size; the flesh 
of the breast is plump and firm, and 
the skin clear. To be sure that the 
bird is fresh if purchased from 
dealers, pluck off a few feathers 
from the inside of the legs and 
around the vent; in a freshly-killed 
bird the flesh will be fat and fresh- 
colored; if the game has been hung 
a long time, the flesh will be dark 
and discolored. These are infallible 
guides in selecting game birds. In 
serving birds, remember that young 
<3reen Peas, or "Petits Pois Pran- 
^ais," as they are generally called, 
are a nice entrfie for all birds. The 
following are the recognized Creole 
rules and methods of preparing our 
•delightful "Fancy Game." 
Invariable Rale far Broiling Birds. 
Oiseaux Grillfies. 

Prepare the birds by hand picking. 
If of the very small variety, such as 
grassets, reed birds, robins, etc., do 
not pick out the entrails, for there 
VUl be little left of the bird but a 
charred mass. Rub the bird well 
with salt and pepper, and then with 
melted butter. Tie a strip of very 
flnelyrSlioed bacon around the body 
of the bird, joining with a skewer, 
and place on a broiler over a slow 
fire, and let it cook for ten, fifteen 
or twenty or even thirty minutes, 
according to the size of the bird. 
Turn frequently, so that it may cook 
well without burning. "When done,' 
take off the broiler. Have ready 
always buttered French toasts, and 
place the birds upon them, allowing 
a slice of toast for each bird. Trim 
away the rough edges of the toast. 
It is a matter of taste whether the 
strip of bacon be removed or not. 
But in the most exclusive homes of 



Creole New Orleans it is retained, 
being removed ac the table by the 
person to whom it is served, the 
hot bacon keeping the bird hot. 
Juicy and tender. Always pour over 
the bird a little of the juice that has 
run from it In broiling, and let it 
soak down into the toast. Pour over 
a little melted butter and chopped 
parsley, and lemon juice if you like. 
Garnish with sliced lemon and par- 
sley sprigs, and bring to the table 
hot. 

Invariable Rule for Boastins Birds. 

Oiseaux Rotis. 

Prepare the birds in exactly the 
same manner as for broiling, clean- 
ing out the entrails of the larger 
birds, and leaving the small ones 
untouched, with the exception of the 
ipababotte, the gizzards ^ of which 
must never be eaten, for the Paba- 
botte is a very rich bird. Rub with 
salt and pepper and melted butter. 
In the larger birds, if you can afford 
it put a truflae or two, for stuffing, 
and in all put a little lump tt butter 
and a little salt and pepper, a pinch 
of chopped thyme, parsley and bay 
leaf, and a small pinch of the four 
spices, but very, very small indeed. 
Bind with strips of bacon, and place 
in a baking pan with a tablespoonful 
of butter. Let them bake or roast 
thirty tainutes or less, according to 
size, and serve always on buttered 
French toast, over which you will 
pour, when you have placed the bird 
upon it, a bit of the gravy made 
when cooking. Prepare this gravy 
bv simply adding a tablespoonful of 
water, letting it cook for two min- 
utes; then strain; let it cook for two 
minutes more, and pour upon Jhe 
breast of the bird, so that it will s6ak 
down into the toast. Garnish nicely 
with sprigs of parsley and lemon, 
and serve hot. 



134 



Bear in mind that all large game 
should be roasted; the small may be 
roasted or broiled, according to 
taste, 

Pababotte. 

The Pababotte is one of our most 
rficherchfe and distinctive birds. The 
Pababotte is a summer bird, and is 
with us from the latter part of the 
month of June to September. The 
game laws are very strict, and it is 
not allowed to be killed out of sea- 
son. The first Pababottes in the 
market, like the first Pompano, are 
much sought after. It is a rich bird 
and is the Joy of the ancient Creole 
gourmets. "Pababotte &, la Creole!" 
— "Ah!" they will tell you, "you have 
a dish that is enough to make a dead 
man turn , alive!" Thus prepared, 
the dish is sometimes called "H la 
Frangais-Crgole," not because the 
bird has been ever cooked by the 
French in their own domains, for it 
is unknown in French forests, but 
because the Creoles, in cooking it to 
the best advantage, adopt the French 
dressing which will be explained in 
stuflSng the bird, according to the 
subjoined distinctive Creole recipe: 

Pababotte ft la Creole. 

Pababotte a, la Crfiole. 

6 Fababottea. 6 Trnffleh. 

6 Thin Slices of Bacon. 6 Slices of Toast. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

3 Tablespoontuls of Water. 

The Zest of a Lemon. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

OllTes and Sprigs of Farsle.v to Garnish. 

Clean the Pababotte as you would 
a chicken, and take out the entrails. 
Separate the gizzards, and be sure 
to throw them away, retaining all 
the rest of the entrails for stuffing. 
Chop the remaining entrails very fine, 
and season well with salt and pepper! 
Fry them in about a quarter of a 
spoon of butter. In the meantime 
take the Pababotte and rub well 
with salt and pepper, and put a small 
piece of butter, about the size of a 
peanut, with a little salt and pepper, 
in the Pababotte. jr'lace in the in- 
terior one truffle. Bind a strip of 
thin bacon around the body. Place 
a tablespoonful of butter in a baking 
dish, and set the Pababotte in it, 
and add about two tablespoonfuls of 
water. Set the dish in a Quick oven, 
and let the birds roast thirty min- 
utes, turning over once, so that they 
may be perefctly done. When the 
entrails are done, add. two inches of 
the zest of the lemon and a little 
juice. Take slices of toast, allowing 
one slice for each bird, and spread 
over each a coating of the entrails, 
or farcie. Place a bird on each 
slice of toast, after taking off the 
binding of bacon, or leaving it on, 
according to taste. Add one spoon 
of water to the gravy in which the 



Pababottes have been cooking, strain 
It, then warm for two minutes, and 
potir hot on top of the breast of the 
bird, allowing it to melt down into 
the French toasts. Garnish the 
dish nicely with sprigs of parsley 
and olives, and serve hot. 

Broiled Pababotte. 

Pababotte Grille, 

6 Pababottes. B Fine Strips of Bacon. 

6 Slices of Buttered French Toast. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 

Juice of 1 Lemon. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley, 
Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs to Gamlsh, 
Salt and Pepper to Taste, 
Clean the Pababotte well, removing 
the entrails, and be particularly care- 
ful to throw away the gizzard. Rub 
the birds with aalt and pepper and 
then with melted butter. Tie a strip 
of very finely-sliced bacon around 
the body of each bird, joining the 
bacon with a skewer, and place the 
birds on a broiler over a slow Are 
and let them cook fifteen, twenty or 
even thirty minute.s, according to the 
size of the birds. Turn frequently, 
so that they may broil without burn- 
ing. When done, take off the broiler; 
have ready the slices of buttered 
French toast, and place a bird upon 
each slice. Trim away the rough 
edges of the toast. Pour over the 
birds a little of the juice, that has 
run from them in broiling, and let this 
soak down into the toast. Pour over 
a little melted butter and chopped 
parsley, and add a little lemon juice, 
if desired. Garnish with slices of 
lemon and parsley sprigs and bring to 
the table hot. 

Roast Pababotte. 

Pababotte Roti. 

6 Pababottes. 6 Truffles (If desired), 
3 Sprigs of Chopped Thyme and Parsley. 
1 Bay Leaf, Minced. 
6 Thin Strips of Bacon. 
3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, 
1 Tablespoonful of Water. 
6 Slices of French Toast. 
. Ealt and Pepper to Taste. 
Sprigs of Parsley and Thin Slices of Lemon to 
Garnish, 
Prepare the Pababottes as . indi- 
cated in above recipe. Rub with salt 
and pepper and melted butter; f)ut a 
truffle or two into each Pababotte.if 
you can afford it, and put in each 
bird a little lump of butter about the 
size of a peanut, a pinch of salt and 
pepper, and a pincn of chopped thyme 
and parsley and bay leaf. Bind the 
birds with the strips of bacon and 
place in a baking pan with a table- 
spoonful of butter. Let -them bake 
or roast for thirty minutes or less, 
according to size. When done, place 
each bird on a slice of buttered 
French toast, and, when you have 
placed the bird thus, pour over a bit 



1^5 



of the gravy which you will have 
made by adding to the birds while 
cooking, and just four mlnutea be- 
fore serving, add a tablespoonful of 
water, letting it cook for two min- 
utes; then strain this gravy, and let 
it cook two minutes more. Pour a 
little over the breast of each bird, 
so that it will soak down into the 
toast. Garnish nicely with sprigs of 
parsley and sliced lemon and servie 
hot. 

PARTRIDGES. 

Perdreaux. 

The Partridge may be roasted or 
broiled; being a large bird, if 
roasted it may be stuffed with truf- 
fles or any stuffiKs, such as oysters 
or egg, and served on toast, as indi- 
cated in the recipes for broiling and 
roasting birds. 

The term "Perdreaux" is applied 
by the French to young Partridges, 
and "Perdrix" to the older birds. In 
the young birds the tips of the long 
wing feathers are pointed; in the old 
birds the tips of the wing feathers 
are round. 

Roast Fartrldgre. 

Perdreaux Rotis, ou Perdreaux Plqu6s 
Sur Canapes. 

6 Fine Toung Fartrldgea. 

6 Thin Slices of Bacon. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Toasteu uread. 

Parsley or Watercress to Garnish. 
Clean, singe and draw and wipe 
the birds neatly; rub each bird well 
with salt and pepper, and then with 
melted butter. If it can be afforded, 
stuff the bird with truffles, placing 
one or two in each bird, and place 
within the bird a pinch of salt and 
pepper, a lump of butter about the 
size of a peanut,and a pinch of 
chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, 
all minced very fine. Bind the birds 
with thin strips of bacon, ai^d fasten 
each strip with a skewer. Put the 
Partridges in a baking pan in a 
brisk oven, and add two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter and one of water. 
Let them bake from twenty-five to 
thirty minutes, according to size, 
basting occasionally with their own 
juice. When done, have ready the 
buttered French toast; place the 
birds upon the toast and pour over a 
bit of the gravy made when cooking. 
Prepare this gravy by adding two 
tablespoonfuls of water to the Par- 
tridge juice after removing the birds; 
let it cook for two minutes, and then 
Btlrain and let it cook two minutes ' 
more. Pour upon the breast of the 
birds, so that it will soak into the 
tOElst. Ctarnish the dish nicely with 



sprigs of parsley or watercress and 
, serve hot. 

- Roast Partridge, Bread Sance. 

Perdreaux Rotis, Sauce au Pain. 

8 Fine Young Partridges. 

Slice of Toast Bread. 

IH Ounces of Fresh Bread Crumbs, 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

I % Cup of Cold 'JVater. . 

; %. Clip of Cream or Milk. . 

% Teaspoontul of Salt. 6 White Peppers. 

Prepare the Partridges and roast- 

according to recipe for "Roast Par- 

( tridge." (See lucipe.) Make .a 

bread sauce as follows: Crumble one 

and a. half ounces of fresh bread 

crumbs and place In a saucepan with 

a half cup of cold water; add, when 

the water heats, a tablespoonful of 

butter, six whole white .peppers and' 

a half teaspoonful of salt. Cook for 

five minutes; then add a half cup of 

rich milk or cream. Let the whole . 

cook five minutes more. Remove the 

white peppers. Place the Partridges ■ 

on the toasted brea^, and garnish 

the dish nicely with parsley sprigs . 

or watercress. Send to the table hot , 

with the sauce in a separate dish. 

Pour the sauce over the Partridges 

'When serving. 

Broiled Fartrldses 

Perdreaux Grilles. 

3' Fine Young Partridges. 

6 Slices of French Toast. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The Juice of a Lemon. 

Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Prepare the birds as in the above 
recipe. Cut them in two by splitting 
down the back, as in broifing a 
chicken. Rub with salt and pepper 
and melted butter. Place on a broil- 
er and. let them broil from fifteen to 
twenty minutes, allowing from seven 
to ten minutes, according to the size 
bf the bird, to either side during the 
: broiling process. Turn frequently to 
avoid burning. Have ready the but- 
tered French toast; place the- birds 
upon it and pour over a little of the 
juice that ran from the bird while 
broiling. Let it soak down in the 
bread; pour over melted butter and 
chopped parsley, and add a little lem- 
on juice, if desired. Garnish the dish 
nicely with sprigs of parsley or wa- 
tercress and send to the table hot. , 

Partridge With Sour Orange Sauce. 

Perdreaux aux Bigarades. 

3 Fine Partridges. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

The Juice of a Sour Orange. 

Toasted Croutons. 

Watercress or Parsley to Garnish. 

Bro'H the Partridges according to 

recipe for "Broiled Partridge." (See 

recipe.) Prepare a "Drawn Butter 



136 



Sauce" (see recipe), and add the juice 
and zest of a sour orange. Pour over 
the birds and let it soali down into 
the toast. Serve hot, with garnishes 
of parsley or watercress. 

Partridges, Hunters' Style. 

Perdrix SautSes a, la Chasseur. 

3 Fine Partridges. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 Finely Chopped Onion. 12 Whole Mushrooms. 

2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
V4 Glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine. 

1 Cup of Water or Consomme. 
Croutons. 

The older birds are used for stew- 
ing- purposes. Clean the Partridges; 
singe, draw and wipe well. Cut up 
the birds as you would a young 
chicken. Rub well with salt and pep- 
per, and place in a stewpan with two 
tablespoonfuls of butter. After let- 
ting them brown well on either side, 
about three minuses, add the finely- 
chopped onion and carrot, and the 
minced herbs. Let these brown for 
two minutes, and add the flour and 
let all brown nicely. Then add a 
cup of water or consommfi and the 
wine and the chopped mushrooms. 
Cover closely and cook for fifteen 
minutes and then serve, using 
toasted Crofltons as garnish. 

Fartrldge, Creole Style. 

Perdrix SautSes a la Creole. 

' 3 Fine Partridges. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

3 Large Tomatoes. 

2 Sprigs Each of Tbyme apd Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 
i % Glass of Shen/ or Madeira Wine. 
' 1 Cup of Water or Consomme. 

' Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Croutons to Garnish. 

Clean the Partridges; singe, draw 
and wipe well. Cut up the birds as 
for Fricasseed Chicken. Rub well 
with salt and pepper and place in a 
stewpan, and let them brown well 
on either side. Then add the finely- 
chopped onion and the herbs, minced 
very fine. Let these brown, and add 
the tablespoonful of flour. Let brown 
nicely, and add the chopped tomatoes 
and their Juice; cover and let simmer 
about five minutes, and then add the 
wine and a cup of water or con- 
sommS. Cover closely and let all 
cook for fifteen minutes and serve 
hot, using toasted CroHtons for a 
garnish. 



Partridge A la Flnanci£re. 

Perdreaux a la Financifire. 

3 Fine Young Partridges. 

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Tablespoonful of Sail. 

1 Tablespoonful of Pepper. 

A Dash of Cayenne. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 

yii Pint of Consomme or Water. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 3 Truffles. 

2 Dozen Stoned Olives. 

3 Blanched Chicken Livers. 

1 Dozen Mushrooms. 

1 Dozen Quenelles of Veal or Chicken. 

1 Pint of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 

Clean the partridges according to 
the recipe given. Singe, draw, wipe 
well and then truss neatly. Rub well 
with salt and pepper. Take a piece 
of fat salt pork and cut into strips 
and lard the partridges with these 
thin strips, using a larding needle. 
Then put two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter into a shallow saucepan, let the 
butter melt, add tae onion and carrot 
sliced fine and the minced parsley 
and bay leaf; lay the partridges 
over these, cover the saucepan and 
let the partridges brown till they 
reach a nice golden color. Then add 
a half pint of chicken or veal con- 
sommg, or if these are not convenient 
add a half pint of water. Cover the 
saucepan and let them simmer down 
for twenty minutes, turning occasion- 
ally so that they may be thoroughly 
cooked. Then remove the birds, plac- 
ing them on a hot dish in the oven. 
Make a Sauce a. la Financifire by add- 
ing to the gravy in which the par- 
tridges were cooked; one tablespoon- 
ful of flour; let it brown and add one 
pint of rich chicken broth, one ta- 
blespoonful of butter, three sliced 
truffles, two dozen stoned olives, 
three blanched' chicken livers cut 
in pieces, one dozen mushrooms, one 
aozen small balls or quenelles (see 
■recipe) of minced veal or chicken 
(may be omitted), and a pint of Sher- 
ry or Madeira w?ne. Season well 
with salt and pepper, and add a dash 
of Cayenne. Let all cook for twenty 
minutes, using a wooden spoon to 
stir. The sauce should be of the 
'consistency of rich cream. After 
twenty minutes place the partridges 
back in the sauce and let them wiarm 
for about three or four minutes. 
Place, in the dish, pour the sauce 
over them and serve hot with gar- 
nish of toasted CroOtons. 

Partridge and Cabbage. 

Perdrix aux Choux. 

3 Fine Partridges. 

A Pine Tender Head of Cabbage. 

1!! Chaurlce (Sausage). >^ of a Pound ef 

Salt Pork. 

1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4 Cloves. 

% Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Herb Bouquet. 



137 



1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Broth (White). 

1 Pint of Beef Broth or Water. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Clean the partridges, selecting 

large and older partridges in prefer- 
ence to the young. Clean, singe, 
draw and wipe well. Then truss them 
neatly, rub with salt and pepper and 
butter and place in a roasting pan. 
In the meantime take a fine, tpnder 
head of cabbage, clean thoroughly 
and cut into foui parts. Wash the 
■cabbage well in cold water and put 
into boiling salted water for five 
minutes. Then take the cabbage out 
of the water and drain well; make a 
hollow in the center of each piece 
of cabbage; place within the par- 
tridges, cover with the other pieces 
and tie together. Put in a saucepan 
the quarter of a pound of salt pork 
which has been yyell scalded and 
washed of all salt and cut into six 
slices. Add one carrot cut, into four 
pieces, one whole onion into which 
you will have. £.LUck four cloves, 
the herb bouquet, the sausage and 
one pint each of white veal broth or 
chicken broth, and one pint of water 
or beef broth. Season with a 
small pinch of salt, and a good 
pinch of pepper, and place the 
cabbage in this preparation. , Put 
the partridges in the oven and 
let them roast for ten minutes. Then 
remove and taku the cabbage from 
the mixture, make a hollow in the 
center of the cabbage, place within 
the partridges and cover with the 
remaining portion of cabbage; tie 
each half separately together; then 
return to the saucepan, placing a 
piece of buttered paper over to keep 
all air from escaping. Put the lid 
on the saucepan, set in the oven and 
let the partridges cook thus for an 
hour. Remove the lid and paper, 
skim off all that may adhere to the 
surface^ drain the cabbage and slice; 
dress neatly on a hot dish. Untruss 
the partridges and lay them on the 
cabbage, placing on each dressed sec- 
tion a piece of sliced boiled pork, 
a sausage cut in half; slice the car- 
rots nicely in round pieces, and use 
these as a decoration, placing them 
artistically around the dish. • Strain 
the sauce in which the partridges 
were cooked and let it reduce slight- 
ly. Serve with the cabbage and par- 
tridge, bringing it to the table in 
a separate bowl and pouring over the 
cabbage when serving. 

Chartreuse of PartrldgC' 

Chartreuse de Perdrix. 

3 Fine Partridges. 

A Fine Tender Head ot Cabhage. 

12 Chanrice (Sausage). % Pound of Salt Pork. 

3 Small Onions. 

2 Turnips. 2 Carrots. 4 Cloves. 
IH Tablespoon fiils of Butter. 

% Cup of Green Peas. 



1 Herb Bouquet. 

1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Broth. 

1 Pint of Consomme. 

% Pint of Demi Glace, or Madeira Sauce. 

Prepare the partridges and ' cab- 
bage exactly as foT the recipe „Par- 
tridges and Cabbage." 

Butter a three-pint mold lightly; 
cut the turnips, carrots and onion in- 
to small even pieces, using a vege- 
table tube; put a layer of the cut 
vegetables in the bottom of the mold; 
lay on top a layer of the cooked cab- 
bage, cut the pariridges into pieces 
and place a layer of them on the 
cabbage, filling in the hollow spaces 
with cabbage chopped fine and the 
chopped vegetables; fill in further 
with the sliced sausage and lay on 
top six slices of the salt pork; then 
place another layer of the partridges, 
fill in the hollow places with the 
sliced turnips and carrots and onions 
and the sausage; place on top anoth- 
er layer of cabbage, covering the 
top well with the cabbage and press- 
ing down very carefully; decorate 
the mold prettily around , the edges 
with the sliced carrots and turnips 
and place in a tin baking pan and 
set in a moderate oven for fifteen 
minutes. Have at hand a hot dish 
turn the mold upside down and care- 
fully draw it off the preparation. 
Send to the table hot and serve with 
Demi Glace, or Madeira Sauce. (See 
recipe.) 

Breasts of Partridge, Truffle Sauce. 

Supreme de Perdreaux, Sauce PSri- 
gueux. 

3 Fine Toung Partridges. 3 TrufSes. 
12 Mushrooms. 
1^ Glass of Madeira Wine. 

2 Ounces of Chicken Forcemeat. 
A Pint of Sauce a la Hollandaise. 

2 Gills of White Wine. 

Clean, singe, draw and wipe the 
partridges carefully. Then remove 
the skin from the breasts. By a 
delicate manipulation with a very 
sharp small knife make an incision 
on the top of each breastbone from 
end to end and cut off the entire 
breast, including the wing bone, from 
the carcass. Carefully remove the 
small filet which lies under each 
breast and place on a dish aside for 
further use. Then cut an incision 
two inches square and 1 inch in 
depth into each breast, on the inner 
side. Rub well with salt and pepper, 
and stuff the incision with two ta- 
blespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat, to 
which has been added six finely- 
chopped mushrooms and two thinly- 
sliced truffles. Butter the inside of 
a tin saucepan and lay the six 
breasts very carefully within. Then 
take each of the bix small filets that 
have been laid aside; rub them well 
with salt and pepper and make 
a small incision on the top 



138 



of each and place within a thin slice 
of truffle and brush lightly with 
melted butter. Lay these fllets light- 
ly on top of each of the breasts, and 
again brush lightly with melted but- 
ter. Tliese filets and breasts thus 
arranged constitute supremes. Pour 
into the pSn a half glass of Madeira 
wine and two tablespoonfuls of the 
chicken liquor, cover the pan tightly 
and place in a hot oven for fifteen 
minutes. 

Take one pint of Hollandaise Sauce, 
add one finely-minced truffle and a 
half dozen minced mushrooms and 
two gills of White Wine. Place the 
sauce in a saucepan of hot boiling 
water and let the sauce heat ivell 
without boiling. jr-our this sauce 
into a hot dish and then take the pan 
with the partridges out of the oven, 
remove tlie breasts and filets, or 
"Supremes," place them on the dish 
with the sauce, garnish nicely with 
Croiltons and send to the table hot. 

QUAIL. 

Cailles. 

The quail is a most delicious and 
tempting bird. It delights the most 
fastidious, and that famous prepara- 
tion, *'Quail on Toast," or "Cailles 
sur CanapSs," is a dish that no great 
dining is considered complete with- 
out, when quail a^e in season. 

We have two kinds of quail, the 
blue and the yellow spotted, or pi- 
v61e. Both are excellent. If pur- 
chased in the market or city stores, 
see that the skin is clear and the 
breasts full and render. The quail 
is either broiled or roasted, follow- 
ing exactly the same directions given 
in the recipes for broiling and roast-' 
ing. In broiling, allow from twelve 
to fifteen minutes. In roasting, from 
twenty to twenty-five. Always cook 
slowly on a slow fire. / 

Ronsted dnall. 

Cailles Roties. 

C Quails. 

1 Talilespoontul of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Water. 

The Juice of ] Lemon. 6 Slices of Toast. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs, or Water- 
cress to Garnish. 
Select six fine, fat, tender quail. 
Pick, singe, clean and wipe them 
well. Butter the inside of each quail 
nicely and sprir.Jcle lightly within 
with salt and pepper. Rub lightly 
on the outside with butter, theh 
truss the bird and bind the body 
round with a thin strip of bacon. 
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a 
rdasting pan and set the birds in 
the pan and cook in the oven from 
twenty to thirty minutes, according 
to size. Have ready the buttered 
toast. Place on a hot dish, lay a 
bird on each slice of toast. Add a 



little butter to the gravy in which 
the quails have been roasted, a ta- 
blespoonful of water and the juice 
of one lemon. Let , this cook for 
three or four minutes, strain and set 
on the stove for two minutes longer 
and pour over the breast of the birds 
so that it will soak into the bread. 
Garnish the dish nicely with -parsley 
and sliced lemon or sliced lemon 
and watercress, and send to the table 
hot. When served with a garnish of 
watercress the dish is called "Cailles 
aux Cressons." 

Quail Roasted In Grape Lenve», 

Cailles de Laurier aux Peuilles de 
Vifeues. 

6 Pine Quails. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Water. The Juice of 1 

Lemon. 

6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 12 Gi-ape Leaves. 

Green Grape Jelly. 

Follow the directions given in the 
above recipe for roasting quails, only 
do not wrap the quails in strips of 
bacon. Instead rub the bodies well 
■with butter and then envelop the 
birds in fresh grape leaves; set in a 
baking pan and proceed to roast ac- 
cording to the directions given above. 
Garnish a dish nicely with fresh 
young grape leaves, place the quails 
on slices of toast and lay upon the 
leaves and send the dish to the table 
hot. Serve the quails with Green 
Grape Jelly. This is, of course, a 
rare dish, and can only be served 
at the season when the grape vine 
is in leaf. It Is much affected at 
such times by epicures, but it is a 
dish within the reach of any who 
may have a grape vine near. The 
grape leaves impart a very peculiar 
and grateful flavor to the quail 

Rouated Mtuail. 

Cailles de Laurier Roties. 

6 Fine Tender Quails. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Water. 6 Truffles. 

8 Thin Strips of Bacon. The Juice of 1 

Lemon. 
Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 
To make this delicious dish, clean 
the quail and butter inside and throw 
in a little salt ana pepper. Stuff with 
truffles, and bind the body, after 
rubbing, with a strip of bacon. Set 
in the oven in a baking pan in which 
you have placed a, tablespoonful of 
butter, and let it roast twenty or 
thirty minutes, according to size. 
Have ready buttered toast. Put the 
birds on the toast. Add a little but- 
ter to the gravy in which they have 
been roasted, and a tablespoonful of 
water, and the iuice of a lemon. Let 
this cook for three or four minutes, 
strain, set on tne stove for two 
minutes longer, and pour over the 



139 



breast of the bird, so that it will 
soak into the bread, and serve with 
a nice garnish of parsley and sliced 
lemon, and with green peas as an 
entree. 

Broiled Quail on Toast. 

Cailles Grillfees' sur Canapfes. 

6 I'ine Fat Quails. 6 Strips of Bacon. 
2 Isblespooufuls of Butter. G Slices of But- 
tered Toast. 
The Juice of 1 Lemon. 
■Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. 

Bub the bird -well with salt and 
pepper, and then with melted but- 
ter. Tie a strip of very finely-sliced 
bacon around the body of the bird, 
joining with a BKewer, and place 
on a broiler over a slow fire,, and let 
it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, or 
even thirty minutes, according to the 
size of the bird. Turn frequently, 
so that it may cook well without 
burning. When done take off the 
broiler. Have ready always but- 
tered French toasts, and place the 
birds upon them, allowing a slice of 
toast for each bird. Trim away the 
rough edges of the toast. It is a 
matter of taste whether the strip 
of bacon be removed or not. But at 
the most elegant dinings in Creole 
New Orleans it is retained, being 
removed at the table by the person 
to whom it is served, the hot bacon 
keeping the bjrd hot, juicy and ten- 
der. Always pour over the bird a lit- 
tle of the juice that has run from it 
in broiling, and let it soak down 
into the toast. Pour over a little 
melted butter anu chopped parsley, 
and lemon juice, if you like. Garnish 
with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, 
and bring to the table hot. 

aualls Broiled With Bacon. 

Cailles GrillSes et BardSes. 

6 Fine Fat Quails. 
1 Tablcspoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Salt. % Tablespoonful of 

Pepper. 
6 Slices of Bacon. 6 Slices of Toast. 

2 Tablespoontuls of Sauce a la ilaltre d'Uotel. 
Watercress and Sliced Lemon to Garulsb. 

Clean the quails, singe and wipe 
well. Split them through the back 
without separating the breast and 
break the leg bones. Rub well with 
salt and pepper and a little melted 
butter, mixed together, and put the 
Quails on a broiler and let them broil 
on a moderate fire for fifteen minutes, 
allowing seven and a half minutes 
to either side, and turning frequently , 
to prevent burning. Have ready a 
hot dish with six slices of buttered 
toast, lay the quail on top and pour 
over a little melted butter (Sauce t, 
la Maitre d'Hotel), and then deco- 
rate the dish with parsley sprigs, on 
which lay six nicely broiled slices of 
breakfast bacon. 



Smothered Q.uall. 

Cailles BraiSs£es. 

a Fine Fat Quails. % Carrot. 

H of an Onion. % Cupful of Water. 

2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper tp Taste. 

6 Thin Strips of Bacon. 

Select fine fat quails, clean, singe 
and wipe well. Truss neatly and 
cover with a thin layer of bacon. 
Then place two tablespoonfuls of 
butter in a saucepan; place the quails 
in the pan; add half of an onion and 
carrot minced very fine, cover and 
let the quails brown to a nice golden 
color. Then moisten with a half cup 
of water and set tne pan in the oven. 
Cover with buttered paper and let 
the quails cook for twenty minutes. 
Serve on a hot dish nicely garnished 
with parsley sprigs or lettuce leaves. 

Braised Quails, Celery Sauce. 
Cailles Braissfees t la Sauce CSleri. 

Proceed to clean and cook the 
quails as in the recipe given above 
and serve with a pint of hot Celery 
Sauce (see recipe) poured over. 

Quails Braised H la Financiere. 
Cailles B,raiss6es a. la Financigre. 

Braise the quails as in the recipe 
for "Braised Quails," and serve with 
a pint of hot Sauce a. la Financlfiro 
poured over. 

WOODCOCK. 

BScasse. 

The "Bficasse" is a rare bird. It is 
in season from December till April. 
In purchasing see that the skin is 
clear, the breasts firm and plump 
and the wings tender to the touch. 

Pluck and clean, but never draw 
these birds. The olden epicurean 
ideas of Creole cookery forbid this. 
If you were to serve the Bfioasse to 
an old Creole bon vivant without the 
entrails he' woula consider it quite 
shocking, and his indignation would 
vent itself Immediately in unmistak- 
able terms. The "B6casse" is always 
broiled or roasted and .served on but- 
tered French toast. If roasted, al- 
ways put, if you can, one truffle in 
the body as a stuffing, and when 
serving a little melted butter on 
top of the breast. 

Roast Woodcock on Toast. 

B§casses Roties sur Canap6s. 
6 Fine Woodcock. , 
Slices of Buttered Toast. 

6 Strips of Bacon. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay 

Lent. 
Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Wa- 
tercress to Garnisb. 

Prepare the birds as in the "In- 
variable Rule for Roasting Birds." 
(See recipe.) 

Rub with salt and pepper and melt- 
ed butter. If you can afford it, put 



140 



a truffle in each bird for stuffing, 
and in all put a little lump of but- 
ter and a little salt and pepper, a 
pincb of chopped thyme, parsley and 
bay leaf, and a amaU pinch of the 
four spices, but very, very small, 
indeed. Truss neatly. Bind with 
strips of bacon, and place in a baking 
pan with a tablespoonful of butter. 
Let them bake or roast thirty min- 
utes or less, accoralng to size; re- 
move from the oven and place on 
buttered French toast on a hot dish, 
cover and set over a pot of boiling 
water to keep warm. Prepare 
^ravy by simply adding a tables- 
poonful of water to the gravy made 
when cooking the birds, let it cook 
for two minutes; then strain; let it 
cook for two minutes more, and pour 
upon the breast of the bird so that it 
will soak down into the toast. Garnish 
nicely with sprigs of parsley and 
lemon, and serve hot. 

Broiled Woodcock on Tonst. 

BScasses GrillSs sur Canapgs. 

6 Fine Fat Woodcock. 6 Slices of Buttered 

French Toast. 

6 Fine Strips of Breakfast Bacon. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Parsley Sprigs. 

and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Prepare the birds by hand picking. 
Singe and wipe well. Rub the bird 
well with salt and pepper, and then 
with merted buttsr. Tie a strip of 
very finely-sliced bacon around the 
body of the bird, joining with a 
skicwer, and place on a broiler over a 
slow lire, and let it cook for ten, 
fifteen or twenty, or even thirty min- 
utes, according to the size of the 
bird. Turn frequently so that it may 
cook Tvell without burning. When 
done take oft the uroiler. Have ready 
always buttered ir-rench toasts, and 
place the birds upon them, allowing 
a slice of toast iror each bird. Trim 
away the rough edges of the toast. 
Always pour over the bird a little 
of the juice that has run from it in 
broiling, and let it soak down into 
the toast. Pour over a little melted 
butter and chopped parsley, and lem- 
on juice, if you like. Garnish with 
sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and 
bring to the table hot. In cooking, 
and in serving, follow the "Invar- 
iable Rule for Broiling Birds." (See 
recipe. 

SNjlfB. 

BScassine. 

The snipe is one of our finest birds, 
and is much sought after by epicures. 
But the glory of our Louisiana for- 
ests is that the rich gifts of nature 
may be had by the poor as well as 
the millionaire. 

The Bfioassine is a welcome dish 
at the most exclusive tables. It is a 
winter bird, and is with us from 
December till April, as also the "B&- 



casse," or "Woodcock." If you tell 
an old. Creole that you are going to 
treat him to "BScassines" or "Bg- 
casses," he will smack his lips and 
say: "Ah! you are a connoisseur." 
"Bfcassines" are either roasted or 
broiled; follow implicitly the direc- 
tions given in the rules for broiling 
and roasting birds. Serve in the same 
Inanner, with a garnish of cresses or 
parsley, and always on buttered 
French toasts. In selecting snipe, 
'see that the flesh is clear and firm 
and the breastu full and tender. 

Roast Snipe on Toast. 

B^cassines Roties sur Canapfis. 

6 Fine Snipe. 6 Slices of Buttered French 
Toast. 
6 Strips of Bacon. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay' 

Leaf. 
Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Wa- 
tercress to Garnish. 

Prepare the birds as in the "In- 
variable Rule Iol Koasting Birds." 
Rub with salt and pepper and melt- 
ed butter. If you can afford it, put a 
truffle into each b>ra for stuffing, and 
in all put a little lump of butter 
and a little salt and pepper, a pinch 
of chopped thyme, parsley and bay 
leaf, and a small pinch of the four 
spices, but very, very small, indeed. 
Bind with strips' of bacon, and place 
in a baking pan with a tablespoonful 
of butter. Let them roast thirty min- 
utes or less, according to size, then 
remove and place always on but- 
tered French toast on a hot dish, 
and cover and set over a pot of boil- 
ing water to keep warm and juicy. 
Meanwhile prepare a gravy by sim- 
ply adding a tablespoonful of wa- 
ter to the gravy made in cooking ' 
the birds; let it cook for two min- 
utes; then strain; let it cook for 
.two minutes moru and pour a little 
upon the breast or each bird so that 
it will soak down into the toast. 
Garnish nicely with sprigs of par- 
sley or watercress and slices of lem- 
on, and serve hot. 

Broiled Snipe on Toast. 

BScassines Grillfies sur Canapfis. 

6 Fine Fat Snipe. 

C Slices of Buttered French Toast. 

6 Strips of Bacon. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Parsley Sprigs 

and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. 

Prepare the bird by hand picking, 
singing and trussing neatly, follow- 
ing the "Invariable Rule for Broil- 
ing Birds." (See recipe.) 

Rub the bird well with salt and 
pepper, and then with melted but- 
ter. Tie a strip of very finely-sliced 
bacon around the body of the biriii 
Joining with a skewer, and place on 
la broiler over a slow fire, and let 
it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, 



141 



or even thirty minutes, according to 
the size of the bird. Turn frequent- 
ly, so that it may coolt well without 
burning-. When Cone take off the 
broiler. Have ready always buttered 
French toasts, and place the birds 
upon them allowing a slice of toast 
for each bird. Trim away the rough 
edges of the toast. It is a matter of 
taste whether the strip of bacon be 
removed or not. Always pour over 
the bird a little of the juice that 
has run from it in broiling, and let 
it soak down into the toast. Pour 
over a little melted butter and 
chopped parsley, and lemon juice if 
you like. Garnish with sliced lemon 
and parsley sprigs, and bring to the 
table hot. 

Grassets, Reed Birds, Robins, Larks, 
Broiled or Roasted, 

Grassets, Ortolans, Grives, Alouettes, 
Grillfies ou Rotis. 

6 or 8 Birda. 6 or 8 Slices of Toast. 

2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 

6 or 8 Strips of Bacon. Salt and Pepper to 

Taste. 
Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Wa- 
ter cress to Garnish. 

Grassets, Reed clrds, Robins and 
Larks are delight? jl small game that 
come in the summer. They are with 
us from July, through October. The 
Reed Birds, or Ortolans, are the ter- 
ror of the rice planters of Louisiana. 
They peck at the r:oe and spoil the 
growth, and are, consequently, shot 
In this season, when the rice is ma- 
turing, in order to rid the rice fields 
of their presence. ■ They are delicate 
eating, as are also the Louisiana 
Robins, Larke, and the Grassets, 
which latter are fat, plumpy birds 
of the Robin order. The name Gras- 
set is given to indicate fatness and 
plumpness. These birds are always 
broiled or roasted, following the in- 
variable rules laid down above. They 
should be broiled over a clear fire, 
and do not require much more than 
five minutes to broil; ten minutes 
to roast in a quick oven. Serve 
whether broiled or roasted, on but- 
tered French toast, and garnish with 
cresses of parslej sprigs. All these 
little birds should be broiled "en bro- 
chette," that is, a skewer should be 
run through the body. Salt and pep- 
per after, and pour melted butter 
and chopped parsley over them. If 
roasted, they may be served with a 
brown gravy. 

POUL,ES D'EAU. 
Poules d'Eau. 

2 Pair of Ponies d'Eau. 
6 Turnips. 1 TaBIespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoontul of Flour. 

2 Onions, Chopped Fine. 

1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Fine. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and -Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 



The Poule d'Eau is a species of 
water duck resembling both a chick- 
en and a duck. The Creoles gave it 
the name of "Poule 'd'Eaux," or "Wa- 
ter Chicken." As it lives entirely in 
the water and marshes, never coming 
on dry land, it is classed by the Cre- 
oles among the fish and served as a 
Friday or fast-day dish. It makes 
a very delightful entrfie, either 
stewed plain or with turnips. It is 
never cooked in any other way. As 
it feeds much on fish, it often has 
the flavor of fish. In the hands of an 
inexperienced cook it is sometimes 
unpalatable on that account. Be- 
fore cooking parboil a few minutes 
if there is the slightest odor of fish; 
add a small peeled carrot or onion 
to tha wat^r, and this will absorb 
the flavor of fish. 

Steered Ponies d'Enu. 

Poules d'Eau a, la Creole. 

1 Pair of Poules d'Eau. 

1 Square Inch of Ham. 2 Onions. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fine. 

1 Glass of Claret. 1 Cup of Water.' 

1 Can of 'Mushrooms, 

Clean and pick the Poules d'Eau 
nicely. Cut into Joints or stew 
whole, as desired. The Creoles gen- 
erally cut them into joints. Rub well 
with salt and pepper. Chop two on- 
ions very fine. Put them into the 
ste;wpan with a tablespoonful of 
malted butter, aad let them brown 
slightly. Then add the well-seasoned 
ducks. Let these brown well, and 
add the one square inch of finely 
minced ham. (Omit the ham on fast 
days.) Add the clove of garlic and 
two sprigs each of thyme, parsley 
and one bay leaf, minced very fine. 
Let this brown with the Poules d'Eau, 
stirring frequently, and then pour 
over one good glass of claret. Let 
this simmer for ten minutes, stirring 
constantly so that it will not burn, 
and add one cup of boiling water. 
Season well to taste, and let them 
simmer well for about an hour. 
Serve hot with Crofltons for a gar- 
nish. 

Stewed Poules d'Eau With Turnips. 

Salmi de Poules d'Eau aux Navets. 

1 Pair of Poules d'Eau. 

6 Turnips. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Onions Chopped Fine. 

1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Very i;in6. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

This is the most delightful way of 
cooking Poules d'Eau. The turnip 
blends well with the flavor, and a 
nicer way of serving this vegetable 
in combination does not exist. 
Clean the Poules d'Eau and cut 
into pieces at the joints. Put 



142 



a tablespoonful ot butter into 
the pot, and as it melts add the 
onions, chopped fine. Let this brown 
and then add the pieces of Poules 
d'Eau. Let them brown, and add the 
minced nam. (Omit the ham on fast 
days.) Immediately after add the 
turnips, sliced or cut in quarters, and 
a tablespoonful or sifted flour. Stir 
well, let it brown slightly, and add 
the minced thyme, parsley and bay 
leaf, and one clove of garlic, minced 
very fine. Stir well again, and let 
it smother for about fifteen minutes, 
stirring frequently, so that it will 
not burn. ' Then add water almost 
uffflcient to cover the Poules d'Eau, 
and stir well. Cover tight and let 
the mixture smother for a half hour 
longer. You will have one of 
the nicest dishes that ever graced a 
table. 

Game Pie. 

Pat§ de Gibier. 

1 Dozen Small Birds. 1 Dozen Eggs. 

A Rieli Pie Crust. 1 Dozen Haid-Boiled Eggs. 

2 Cups of Egg Dressing. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Take one dozen small birds. Snipe, 
Quail, Woodcock, etc., and clean well, 
inside and out. Stuff each one with 
a dressing the same as for turkey, 
using either egg or oysters as de- 
sired. Loosen the joints with a knife 
but do not separate them. Put them 
in a stewpan, with water enough to 
cover them ,and let them cook till 
nearly tender. Then season with salt 
and pepper again and t-wd table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Thicken the 
gravy with one tablespoonful of flour, 
let cook for ten minutes more and 
then remove and set to cool. Butter 
a pudding dish and line the sides 
with a rich pie crust (see recipe). 
Have ready the hard-boiled eggs, cut 
in slices. Put in a layer of the eggs 
and a layer of the birds until the 
dish is full. Pour over the gravy 
and then cover the pie with a crust 
and bake to a light brown. 

The pie may also be made very 
nicely by stewing the birds as one 
would a chicken (see recipe), and 
then line a pie pan with a rich pie 
crust; bake lightly, fill in with the 
stewed birds, pour over the gravy, 
place a cover of the pie crust on 
top, set in the oven and bake to a 
light brown. 

Cliaud-Froid ot Game. 

Chaud-Proid de Gibier. 

The Preasts of 3 Ducks, or 1 Dozen Breasts 
of Small Game. 



1 Cup ot Chicken Forcemeat. 

2 TablespoOBfuls of Butter. 
1 Pint of Aspic Jelly. 

1 Pint of Poulette Sauce. 
3 Truffles. Watercress to Garnish. 

This is a, most recherche dish, sel- 
dom made in these days on account 
of the cost, but in old Creole days 
it was a standing dish at every 
great feast. It may be made with 
Canvasback or French or Teal Duoli, 
or with Woodcock, Snipe and other 
small game. The dish demands such 
beautiful decoration that it requires 
an artist to make a real Creole Chaud- 
Froid. 

Clean the ducks or game or spring 
chicken, if the latter is used; wash 
and truss neatly. Then wrap in 
buttered paper and smother accord- 
ing to recipe for Smothered Chicken 
(see recipe.) 'When done take out of 
the paper and separate the breasts 
of the game of chicken from the 
legs. Trim them neatly and stuff the 
portion between the breasts proper 
and the filets wrth a chicken force- 
meat. (See recipe.) Mix together 
equal parts of Aspic Jelly and Pou- 
lette Sauce. (See recipes.) Stir till 
thick and surround with crushed ice. 
Then dip the breasts of the game 
or chicken into this mixture. Take 
a fine baking sheet or dish and ar- 
range the breasid in fanciful or pyr- 
amidal figures on this dish, and when 
set decorate them nicely with sliced 
truffles and the remaining sauce that 
has beefi poured into timbale molds 
that have been previously lined with 
Aspic Jelly, and which have become 
set. Decorate nicely with these tim- 
bales of Aspic and Poulette Sauce, 
and garnish the dish with Crotltons, 
on which you will have placed por- 
tions of Aspic Jelly. Decorate the 
edges of the dish with Watercress, 
and place on the table cold. When 
ready to serve, serve a portion of 
the breast of the uuck or the entire 
breast of the small game on a croll- 
ton of Aspic Jelly, with the timbale 
turned out on the end of the chick- 
en or game and the other end gar- 
nished with Watercress. If chickens 
are used be careful to have spring 
chickens of one and a half pounds 
in weight. This la the real Creole 
Chaud-Proid that was served at the 
great feasts and banquets in the 
days gone by, when parties paid from 
$10 to $20 a plate. It is always an 
expensive dish, both from the cost 
of the ingredients and the care re- 
quired in making it. 



CHAPTER XX. 



STUFFIXGS AND DRI]:SSI1VGS FOft POULTRY, GAME, FISH, ETC. 



FORCEMEAT. 

Des Farcies- -Des Quenelles. 

The Creoles claim that oysters, 
eggs, chestnuts or truffles are the 
only elegant dressings for poultry 
or game, and oysters or egg stuffing 
for fish. The following are the meth- 
ods o£ preparing these dressings: 

Oyster Dresslns- 

Faroi aux Hultres. 

2 Dozen Oysters. 

1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 

1 Onion, Chopped Very Fine. 

i4 Square Incli Ham. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

% Teaspoonful of Sage. 

1 Sprig Each of Tliyme, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf, Hinced Very Fine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wet the soft of. the bread and 
squeeze thoroughly till you have one 
cup, judging the quantity of stuffing 
always by the size of the fowl to 
be stuffed, and adding more in pro- 
portion, if needed. Season the bread 
well with salt and pepper, and add 
the minced herbs, mixing well. Take 
a tablespoonful of butter and put 
in the frying pan. as it melts, add 
the onion, which must be chopped 
Very fine. Let this brown for about 
five minutes, and while frying add 
the bread and stir well. Then add 
the square inch of ham, minced very 
fine. Mix well and let all fry well. 
Season again to taste. Then add the 
two dozen oysters, cut in two, witl\ 
all the hard portions taken off. Mix 
all well, and fry for a few minutes 
longer. Then, If you prefer a dry 
dressing, place the pan in the oven 
and let the dressing bake for ten 
minutes. If you prefer, as many do, 
the moister and richer dressing, stuff 
the fowl or flsh immediately, and 
proceed to bake. Arrange and bake 
the fowl as in the directions on these 
special subjects. Twioe the above 
qauntity of bread will be needed, and 
perhaps a little more, in stuffing tur- 
key. Nothing is more elegant or 
rgcherchS than an oyster dressing. 
The flavor of sage is very much 
liked by some and disliked by others 
If used — and the Creoles always use 
it — add a teaspoonful sifted, and mix 
thoroughly with the bread before 
putting it in the frying pan, if two 
cups of dressing are used, and less 
for one cup, in proportion. 



Oyster Stnfling; for Poultry. 

Farci d'HuItres. 

All depends upon the -size of the 
fowl. For the ordinary-sized fifteen 
or sixteen pound turkey, take 

3 Dozen Oysters. 

1 Quart nf Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Tablespoonluls of Sage. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Drain .the oysters^; wet the stale 
bread with hot water, squeezing 
thoroughlj'. Chop fine the liver and 
gizzard of the fowl, and put a ta- 
blespoonful of lard into the frying 
pan. Mix in the chopped onions and 
add the chopped liver and gizzard. 
As it begins to brown, throw in the 
chopped herbs, and then add the 
bread which has been mixed 
well and seasoned with the 
chopped sage. Mix well. Add 
to this one tablespoonful of butter 
and stir, blending all thoroughly. 
Now^ add the pint or so of oyster 
water, and as it is reduced mix in 
the oysters. Stir for three br four 
minutes and take off and dress the 
fowl. This dressing is highly rec- 
ommended. 

Stuffing of TruiHes. 

Farci aux TrufEes. 

Vi Can of Truffles. 
1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 
1 Onion, Chopped Very Fine. 
% Square Inch of Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2^ Teaspoonfuls of Sage. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf, Minced Very Fine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Proceed in exactly the same man- 
ner as for egg or oyster stuffing, 
using a quarter of a can of truffles 
cltopped, instead of the oysters or 
egg. But bear in mind that this is 
an expensive stuffing. Some fasti- 
dious epicures stuff the fowl en- 
tirely with truffles, but this will 
make the dish of turkey dressed 
in such manner cost at least $10. 

Egg Dressing, 

Farcis aux Oeufs. 

4 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 

1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed 

Thoroughly. 

1 Chopped Onion. % Square Inch of Ham. 



144 



1 Teaspoontul of Butter. 
% Teaspoonful of Sage. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 
Leaf. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Wet the bread and squeeze thor- 
oughly. Chop the eggs fine and mix 
■with the bread. Mince the herbs 
and add. Season well with salt and 
pepper. Chop the onion and fry it 
in one tablespoonful of butter. As 
it browns add the bread, into which 
you have mixed the sifted sage, if 
desired. Add, as it fries, the half 
square inch of ham, minced very 
fine. Season again to taste, and let 
all fry about ten minutes. Take off 
the stove and stuff the fowl or fish 
and proceed with the arrangement 
for baking. Egg dressing is a very 
nice stuffing for fish, if oysters can- 
not be had. 

Stuffing for Ducks. 

Farci Pour les Canards. 

2 Dozen Oysters. 

1 Gup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 

1 Onion Chopped Very Fine. 

% Square Inch of Ham. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

% Teaspoonful of Sage. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf, Minced Very Fine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The Creoles generally stuff the 
domestic duck when roasted, using 
an oyster stufling. (See recipe.) 
But n^any hold that the flavor of 
the wild duck is finer when not 
stuffed. This is a matter of taste, 
'he wild duck stuffed with oysters 
.s a most delectable dish. 

Ducks may be stuffed with truflles. 
This is much affected by epicures 
when serving the famous Mallard 
or Canvasback Ducks at great din- 
Ings. But a duck stuffed with truf- 
fles is a very expensive dish. 

The domestic duck is always 
roasted and stuffed. Serve with 
Currant Jelly. 

Stuffing for Goose. 

Farci Pour I'Oie. 

1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes. 4 Apples. 

4 Onions. ^^ Teaspoonful Powdered Sage. 

% Teaspoonful of Thyme. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Any stufling used in baking a 

turkey may be used for roast goose, 

such as oyster or egg, etc. But the 

following is an excellent special 

dressing and seems to bring out 

more than any other the flavor of 

the goose: 

Take one cup of mashed potatoes, 
four apples (peeled incely and cored) 
and four onions; one-half teaspoon- 
ful of sage, powdered well; one-half 
teaspoonful of thyme and pepper 
and salt to taste. Place the apples 
and onions and herbs in a saucepan , 



and add water sufficient to cover 
nicely. Let all cook together till 
soft. Then mash well and rub 
through a sieve. Add the cup of 
mashed potatoes and mix well, sea- 
soning with salt and pepper. Stuff 
the body and craw, sew up and truss 
the goose, and bake according to re- 
cipe. (See recipe for "Roast Goose.") 

A Simple Bread Stuffing. 

Farci de Pain. 

1 Pint of Stale 'Bread, Wet and Squeezed 

Thoroughly. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful Each of Chopped Parsley 

and Thyme. 
1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wet the bread and squeeze. Add 
the minced herbs and season well 
with salt and pepper. Mix all thor- 
oughly and fry in butter. 

Onion Stuffing. 

Farci aux Ognons. 

1 Pint of Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed 

Thoroughly. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful Bach of Chopped Parsley 

and| Thyme. 
1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Proceed in exactly the same man- 
ner as for bread stufling, using also 
one large onion, chopped very fine, 
and mixed thoroughly. This is a 
very "nice dressing and cheap. 
FORCEMEATS. 
Quenelles. 

Quenelles are small balls of fowl, 
fish meat or other chopped and 
hashed ingredients rolled nicely, and 
used as a garnish for poultry and 
fish, and fish or meat sauces, often 
adding both to the taste and beauty 
of a dish. 

Creole Forcemeat. 
Quenelles a, la Creole. 

Calf's Liver. A Slice of Pork Fat. 
1 Onion. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 
2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 
'6 Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. 1 Table- 
spoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Take calf's liver and pork fat, in 
the proportions of two-thirds liver 
and one-third fat. Grind both to- 
gether very, very fine. Then mince 
an onion, and two sprigs each of 
thyme and parsley, and one bay 
leaf, and mix with the ground meat; 
add a half teaspoonful of grated nut- 
meg and salt and pepper to taste. 
Mix well. Put one tablespoonful of 
hot butter in a frying pan and throw 
in the chopped meat. Let all blend 
well together without cooking for 
about two minutes, stirring all the 
time. Take the mixture off, and, 
when it cools, form into little balls 
'about the size and shape of a pecan. 
Roll these in flour, and then parboil 
in boiling water that has been well 



145 



seasoned with pepper and salt. The 
balls then become Quenelles, and are 
used as a garnish for meats, etc. 
Place around the meat and pour the 
sauce over and serve hot. These 
are the genuine Quenelles. 

Sausage Forcemeat. 

Quenelles de Saucisses. 
Vi Pound of Fresh Pork. 
2 Square Inches of Lean Raw Ham, 
1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of 
Parsley. 
A Finch of Grated Nutmeg. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Hash the pork; season well with 
salt and pepper, according to taste, 
adding a pinch of grated nutmeg 
and the chopped herbs and minced 
ham. Hash all very fine and make 
into small balls and use as de- 
sired. This is a nice garnishing for 
meat when served with sauces. 
Godlveanx Forcemeat. 
Quenelles Godiveaux. 
1i Ponnd of Suet. Vi Found of Lean Teal. 

1 TTablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Gill of Cold 
Milk. 

1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and 

Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 

2 Raw Eggs. A Finch of Grated Nutmeg. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Remove all the stringy tissue from 
the suet and pound in a mortar; 
hash the veal well and mix with the 
meat. Take a tablespoonful of flour 
and blend well with half a gill of 
cold milk and a tablespoonful of 
melted butter and add to the suet 
and veal and blend well. Season 
highly with salt and pepper, and 
add a pinch of grated nutmeg. Then 
add the yolks of two raw eggs and 
the white of one egfj. and, when 
well blended, strain ail through a 
sieve, roll into balls and use as 
needed. In making this forcemeat, 
poultry or game may be used in- 
stead of veal. 

Chicken Forcemeat. 
Quenelles de Volaille. 

2 Raw Chicken Breasts. 

The Yolks of 4 Eggs. Bread Soaked In Water. 

1 Teaspoonful of Butter. 

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Thyme 

and Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg. 

Cut up the chicken and pound in a 

mortar; add an equal quantity of 

bread soaked in nfllk or water and 

well squeezed; add the butter and 

the yolks of the eggs; blend well 

and season highly with salt and 

pepper and the minced herbs, and add 

a pinch of grated nutmeg. Mix all 

together and roll into balls, and 

use as desired. 

Game Forcemeat. 
Quenelles de Gibier. 
The Breasts of Any Birds. 4 Eggs. 
I 1 Teaspoonful of Butter. 



1 Bay Loaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of 
Parsley. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

In making a forcemeat of game, 
use judgment in regard to quantity. 
The partridge is the best bird for a 
game forcemeat. Take two breasts 
of partridges, cut into pieces and 
pound in a mortar. Add the same 
quantity of bread that has been wet 
with milk or water and squeezed 
well. Add the butter and the yolks 
of four eggs, and season highly with 
salt and pepper and a pinch of grated 
nutmeg. Mix thoroughly and press 
all through a sieve. Two well- 
pounded truffles may be added. Use 
as desired. 

Fish Forcemeat. 

Quenelles de Poisson. 

% Pound of Firm Fish. 

The Whites of 3 Eggs. 

H Pint of Cream or Milk. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and 

Parsley. 

Salt and White Pepper to Taste. 

A Finch of Grated Nutmeg. 

The left-over fish may be utilized 
for these Quenelles, or take a half 
pound of any firm fish — Sheepshead, 
Redfish or Red Snapper. Take out 
all the bones and remove the skin. 
Pound the fish well in a mortar, and 
add gradually the well-whipped 
whites of three eggs. Add gradually 
the cream • or milk, and season to 
taste with salt and pepper, using 
white pepper. Add the grated nut- 
meg 'and minced . herbs. Mix thor> 
oughly, drain through a sieve, form 
into little balls, and use when need- 
ed. 

Crab Forcemeat. 

Quenelles des Crabes. 

The Meat of 12 Crabs. 1 Onion. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Teaspoonful <rf 

Salt. 

1 Teaspoonful of White Pepper. 

A Dash of Cayenne. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

12 Mushrooms, if desired. 

The Yolks of 3 Eggs. 

Chop the onion very fine and fry 
in one tablespoonful of butter until 
a golden brown; then add a table- 
spoonful of flour and moisten with 
a quarter of a pint of water, or oys'- 
ter juice, till the sauce begins to 
thicken well; season with the salt 
and pepper and a'dash of Cayenne. 
Add the clove of garlic, finely minced, 
and the herbs. Then add the crab 
meat, finely minced, arid the mush- 
room's, if desired. Cook for a half 
hour in the saucepan, and then take 
off the fire and add the yolks of the 
eggs. Stir again for a moment, cooU 
and roll into balls and use as de- 
sired. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



SAUCES FOR FISH, MEATS, POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 

Des Sauces Pour les Poissons, des Viandes, la Volaille, le Gibler, etc. 



The Creoles, like their French an- 
cestors, hold that the three mother 
sauces, or "Sauces Mfires," are Brown 
Sauce, or "Sauce Espagnole"; the 
White Sauce, or "Sauce Allemande," 
cand the "Glace," or "Glaze." These 
are the foundation of all sauces, and 
upon their successful making depends 
the taste and piquancy of the num- 
berless variety of fancy sauces that 
give to' even the most commonplace 
dish an elegance all its own. The 
Creoles are famous for tlieir splendid 
.feau'ces, and the perfect making of a 
■good sauce is considered an indispen- 
sible part of culinary art and do- 
mestic economy. The first thing to 
learn in making saucee of every 
kind is how to make a good "Roux," 
or the foundation mixture of flour 
and butter, or flour and lard. We 
have the Brown Roux and the White 
Roux. In making a Brown Roux, 
this unfailing rule must be the 
guide: Never, under any considera- 
tion use burnt or over-browned flour. 

BroTrn Roux. 

Roux Brun. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonfal Flour. 

In making the roux, which Is the 
foundation of a fancy sauce, melt 
the tablespoonful of butter slowly, 
and add gradually the flour, sprink- 
ling it in and stirring constantly, 
till every portion is a nice, delicate 
brown. Never make it too brown, 
because it must continue browning as 
■the other ingredients are added in 
the order given in every recipe in this 
book. It is a great mistake to pile 
all ingredients, one after another, 
pell-mell, into a dish, in the course 
of preparation. The secret of good 
■cooking lies in following implicitly 
the gradual Introduction of the com- 
ponent parts in the order specified. 

In making a roux for cooking gra- 
vi-es or smothering meats, the pro- 
portions are one tablespoonful of 
lard and two of flour, butter always 
making a richer gravy than lard, 
and sometimes being too rich for 
.delicate stomachs. It is a great fad 
among many In our day to use noth- 
ing but butter in cooking. The Cre- 
oles hold that butter should be used 
in Its proper place, and lard in Its 
.own. The lard is not only less ex- 
pensive, but is far preferable to an 
Inferior quality of butter, and in 
many cases preferable to the best but- 



ter, according to the dish in course ol 
■ preparation. Properly made, the taste 
of lard can never be detected, and 
it is feared that butter is used by 
many to cover up, by its taste, the 
deficiencies of having made the roux 
improperly. If there is the slightest 
indication of burnt odor or over- 
browning, throw the roux away and 
wash the utensil before proceeding 
to make another. Remember that 
even a slightly burnt sauce will spoil 
the most savory dish. 

White Roux. 

Roux Blanc. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour, 
The White Roux is made exactly 
like the Brown Roux, only that the 
butter and flour are put simultane^ 
ously into the saucepan, and not al- 
lowed to brown. It is then moistened 
witn a little broth or boiling water, 
and allowed to boil a few minutes 
till thick. The White Roux is the 
foundation of all ■white sauces, or 
those containing milk and cream. It 
Is also used In nearly all purges. In 
the Sauce Veloutfi it should be coIf 
ored. 

GliAZE. 

Glace. 

5 Founds Rump of Beef. 5 Pounds of Bonel. 

2 CalfB Feet. 
1 Large Herb Bouquet. 1 Stalk of Celery. 
3 Lnige Carrots. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Glace is the foundation of 
all sauces for roasts, filets, etc. In 
other words, It Is Lleblg's Beef Ex- 
tract, which every housekeeper may 
make and keep on hand for gravies 
for meats. It Is made as follows^ 
Roast five pounds of the rump of 
the beef. Take five or six pounds of 
bones of beef and two calf's feet. 
After roasting the beef well and 
brown, but rare, chop it In small 
pieces, and put in a pot with two 
gallons of water. Add to this the 
bones and calf's feet, all raw. Then 
add a large herb bouquet, and one 
stalk of celery and three large car- 
rots. Let the whole come to a boil. 
As the scum rises skim, and then sea- 
son with salt and pepper to tast«(. 
Let all boll till reduced to one quart. 
Strain this, and it will make a jelly 
I or glace when cold. Do npt , add 
any flour or grease. The good Creole 
cook considers it little sltort of a 



147 



crime to add flour to the gravies of 
roast or broiled beef. This glace is 
then used as a "deml-glace" for 
sauces for sweetbreads, when they 
are prepared in sautfes, fllets of beef, 
etc. In making this "deml glace," 
take one tablespoonful of the glace, 
and add a spoonful of Madeira or 
Sherry wine. It should always be a 
light sauce. Use this for thickening 
Sauce Espagnole. 

Ancliovy Sauce. 

Sauce aux Beurre d'Anchois. 

1 Tablespoonful of Anchovy Butter. 
IVi Tatlespoonfuls Flour. 
1% Tablespoonfuls Butter. 
Make a White Sauce (see recipe), 
and add to this a tablespoonful of 
Anchovy butter, which comes pre- 
pared. Let it melt, season to taste 
in the sauce, and serve. An Anchovy 
Sauce may be either brown or white. 
Serve with boiled flsh. 

Apple Sauce. 

Sauce Marmalade de Pommes. 

6 Large Apples. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 4 GloTes. 

1 Stick Cinnamon. 1 Cup Water. 
Cut the apples into pieces, peel ,and 
let them boil till mashed into a jelly, 
stirring frequently, to prevent burn- 
ing. Add the ground cloves and the 
stick of cinnamon, ground fine. Let 
them boil at least three-quarters of 
an hour, mashing as they become 
tender. Then take off the Are and 
press them through a coarse sieive. 
Add sugar to taste, add the butter, 
and set all back on the fire, and let 
it simmer gently for five minutes 
longer. Set to cool in a dish, and 
serve with Roast Pork or Roast 
Goose. The sauce must not scorch, 
or the taste will be spoiled. 

BSarnalse Sauce. 

Sauce Bfiarnaise. 

e Sballots. % CloTe of Garlic. 

y, Gill of French Vinegar. 

1 Tablespoonful Each of Flour and Butter. 

Tolks of Four Eggs. 
A Grated Nutmeg. % Lemon's Juice. Glace. 

Chop the shallots and mince the 
garlic very fine. Blend the butter 
and flour, or take a good tablespoon- 
ful of Glace (see recipe), and moisten 
with a tablespoonful of White Wine 
and good white consommg, till you 
have about a pint. Set on the stove, 
in a porcelain-lined saucepan. Add 
the pepper and salt and butter, and a 
quarter of a teaspoonful of grated 
nutmeg. Add half a gill of vinegar 
and the juice of a lemon, according 
to taste and acidity. When of the 
consistency approaching starch, take 
from the fire and add the yolks of 
four eggs, beaten well, and stirring 
all the time, till you have the consist- 
ency of a thick starch. Serve im- 



mediately, with broiled steak, broiled 
chops, broiled flsh, etc. 

Bechamel Sauce. 

Sauce BSchamel. 
2 Ounces of Raw Ham. 2 Fresh Mushrooms. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Pint of Veloute Sauce. 2 Gills Rich Cream. 
1 btick of Celery, Cut Very Fine. 
^^ Carrot, Cut Very Fine. 
^A Onion, Chopped Very Fine. 
1 Bnnch Sweet Herbs. 2 Cloves. 4 Allspice. 
Blade of Mace. 
Put the butter in a saucepan, and 
as it melts add the chopped onion, 
and let it stew until very tender, but 
do not let it brown. Mince the ham 
and cut the vegetables very fine, 
and add first the ham, letting it 
brown a minute, and then the vege- 
tables, herbs and spices. Let all 
'Simmer gently for ten minutes, with- 
out browning. Add the Veloutfie 
Sauce (see recipe,) stir in well, and 
bring all to a boil. Let it boil ten 
minutes, and be sure to stir constant- 
ly. Then add, by gentle degrees, the 
cream, which should not be heated, 
but which must be very rich and 
sweet (if not perfectly sweet it will 
spoil the sauce). When all this is 
blended, the sauce is of a velvet 
smoothness, and very delicious. Strain 
and set on the fire a minute longer 
to heat, and serve hot. It is served 
with fish, chicken and sweetbreads. 

Bordelalse Sauce. 

Sauce &, la Bordelaise. 

& Shallots. % Glass Claret. 

3-1 Pint of Sauce Espagnole, 

A Dash of Red Pepper. 

Cut two shallots very fine; put in 
a saucepan with a half glassful of 
Claret; reduce one-half; add three- 
quarters of a pint of good Sauce Es- 
pagnole (see recipe) and a dash of 
red pepper. Cook for twenty min- 
utes and serve hot. In serving this 
sauce, the fiavor may be increased 
by adding a dozen round slices of 
blanched Marrons. 

Bordelaise Sauce, Creole Style. 

Bordelaise Sauce a. la Crgole. 
1 Onion or 2 Shallots. 
1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Peel the onion or shallots and chop 
fine. Put in a saucepan with one 
tablespoonful of olive oil; let the on- 
ion saut§ well, and pour the sauce 
over tenderloin fllets or sirloin steaks 
when it is desired to serve these a. 
la Bordelaise. A tablespoonful of 
Red Wine may be added to the sauce. 

Brown Sauce. 

Sauce Espagnole. 

1 Pound of Neck or Brisket of Veal. 

Bones of Beef. 

1 Gallon of Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard. 



148 



V^ Can Huslirooms or M Oan Truffles. 
2 Ctiriots. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

2 Glores Garlic. 1 Herb Bouquet. 
1 Wineglass of Bherr.y. 
Take a good quantity of bones, 
place in a gallon of boiling water, 
and make a strong consomme, sea- 
soning well with salt and pepper. 
Take a piece of the brisket or neck 
of the beef, and roast rare, so that 
the blood spUrts out when pricked 
with a needle. After roasting cut it 
in pieces of about one inch square. 
Take two tablespoonfuls of lard and 
three of flour, and brown slightly, 
stirring all the time. After brown- 
ing, add the water of the consomm§, 
w^hich has been reduced to about half 
a gallon, pouring It in slowly and 
stirring constantly. Then add jail 
the pieces of the roast beef which 
you have cut. Add three carrots, two 
cloves of garlic, one onion, an herb 
bouquet (tied together of thyme, 
parsley and bay leaf), and let the 
whole boil well two hours, stirring 
every five minutes until reduced to 
the consistency of starch. Then 
strain well through a strainer or 
sieve, season to taste, and set 
back on the stove to cook a few 
minutes longer. Taste, and if suf- 
ficiently seasoned take it off and al- 
low it to get cool. This sauce is then 
used as a foundation sauce, and will 
keep for at least one month in our 
climate of New Orleans, if put in 
a cool place in winter or the ice box 
in summer. 

The Brown Sauce, or Sauce Es- 
pagnole, is made by taking out of 
this foundation sauce one tablespoon- 
ful at a time, and then adding one 
■wineglass or two tablespoonfuls of 
Sherry, to dissolve, and a half pint 
of broth. Set it to boil again, and 
add a half can of mushrooms or truf- 
fles, as desired. It is used for all 
nrreats, flsh or fowl, served hot. 

If one does not desire to keep it, 
and it is a matter of economy to do 
so, it can be made by reducing the 
proportions for the dish to be pre- 
pared, simply browning one table- 
spoonful of butter and two of flour, 
adding at the right time a pint of 
boiling broth, and Sherry to taste. 

Bro'tvn Butter Sauce. 

Sauce aux Beurre Noir. 
Vi Pound of Butter. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Cut Parsley (not chopped). 
3 Tablespoonfuls Juice of Lemon or 
Vinegar, 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Melt the butter in a saucepan, and 
when it begins to smoke it is brown- 
ing. Then add two tablespoonfuls of 
cut parsley, and let it brown half a 
minute longer. Then add three ta- 
blespoonfuls of the juice of a lemon 
or Tarragon Vinegar, and let it sim- 
mer two minutes longer, and serve 
with Stingaree or Rai aux Beurre 



Noir (see recipe), calves' brains or 
crawfish boiled. 

Bread Sauce. 

Sauce de Pain. 

1% Ounces of Fresh Bread Crumba, 

% Cup of Cold Water. 

% Ounce of Butter. 
1 Cup of Cream or Milk. 

6 Whole Peppers. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Crumble the bread and place in a 
saucepan with the water; add the 
butter, salt and peppers. Cook for 
five minutes and add the milk. Cook 
five minutes longer, remove the pep- 
pers and serve hot. 

Caper Sauce. 

Sauce aux Capres. 
Make a White Sauce, as above, and 
add a half cup of finely-cut French 
capers before serving. This sauce is 
served with boiled mutton. 

CanllflOTrer Sauce, 

Sauce aux Chouxfleurs. 
For this sauce, as a foundation, 
first make the Cream Sauce (see re- 
cipe), and add to it the flowerets of 
the cauliflower, which you will have 
previously boiled till tender, and out 
very fine. Serve with boiled fish, 
veal saute, boiled caulifiower, etc. 

Chambord Sauce. 

Sauce a. la Chambord. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Large Onion Minced. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Large Tomatoes. 

1 Truffle, If Desired. 

G Thinly Sliced Mushrooms. 

1 Pint Oyster Wat«r. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

2 Si^rlgs of Parsley. 2 Cloyes, Mashed, 

4 Allspice, Ground. 
Brown the onion in the butter, but 
do not let it burn. Add three large 
tomatoes, chopped fine, with their 
juice and the finely-minced herbs, the 
thinly-sliced truffles and mush'rooms. 
Let these brown well for about ten 
minutes. Then add the pint of oys- 
ter water, and season to taste. Add, 
if you have thfem, three or four craw- 
fish, chopped fine, and one dozzen 
oysters. Let all boil twenty minutes 
longer, and season to taste. Serve 
with Baked Red Snapper and other 
baked fish. 

Champasne Sauce. 

Sauce au Champagne. 
1 Glass of Champagne. 2 Cloyes. 

6 Whole Peppers. 1 Bay Leaf. 

S-4 of a Pint of Sauce Espagnole. 

% Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 

Put the Champagne, cloves, peppers,' 

bay leaf and sugar in a saucepan; 

set on the flre and reduce for live 

minutes. Then moisten the mixture 

with three quarters of a pint of Sauce 



149 



Espagnole a,nd let It cook for fifteen 
minutes longer. Strain well and 
serve. 

Chill Sauce. 

Sauce au Chili. 
6 Tomatoes. 4 Green Peppers. 1 Onion. 
1 Tablespoonful of Salt. 
1 % Cups of Vinegar. 
Cayenne and Chill Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the vinegar and add the 
chopped tomatoes and green peppers 
and the minced onion, adding a table- 
spoonful of sugar. Let all boil one 
hour. Season to taste, strain, and 
serve with any fish or meats. 

Chestnut Sauce. 

Sauce aux Marrons. 

1 Pint of Large Boasted Cbestnnts. 
1 Pint of Boiling Stocll. 
1 Tablespoonful Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Hoast the chestnuts, and peel and 
mash them very fine.. Make a Brown 
Roux with the flour and butter, and 
add the boiling stock. Let it boil 
for about five minutes, and add the 
mashed chestnuts, stirring constant- 
ly, and seasoning to taste. Let it 
boil for two minutes, take off and 
serve hot, with Broiled Dindonneau 
(turkey chicks). This is a great 
Creole dish and is considered a most 
reoherchfi and delicate one. The 
sauce may also be served with Boast 
Turkey. 

Celery Sauce. 

Sauce au C61eri. 
Mince the celery well; put it In a 
saucepan and cover with boiling wa- 
ter. Let it boil about thirty min- 
utes, until tender. Then make a 
Cream Sauce. 

Colbert Sauce. 

Sauce Colbert. 

% Pint of Madeira Sauce. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Consomme. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

I'be Juice of Half a Lemon. 
Put a pint of very thick Madeira 
Sauce (see recipe) in a saucepan, add 
gradually the butter and consomm§ 
and mix well without allowing the 
mixture to boil. When ready to 
serve add the juice of half a lemon 
and a teaspoonful of chopped par- 
sley. 

Cream Sauce. 

Sauce a. la CrSme. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Floor. 

2 Gills of Fresh MlllJ or Cream. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Melt the butter in the saucepan, 
and add the flour gradually, letting 
it blend without browning in the 
least. Add the boiling milk or cream 
'and stir without ceasing. Add salt 



and white pepper to taste, and serve 
immediately with boiled fish, etc. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Sauce aux Airelles. 

Wash the cranberries in cold water, 
and pick well, rejecting all those 
that float; on top or are in any man- 
ner over-ripe and spoiled. Put them 
in a porcelain-lined saucepan, with 
one pint of water, and let them boil 
over a moderate fire, stirring occa- 
sionally with a wooden spoon, and 
Tnashing the fruit as much as pos- 
sible. When the berries have cooked 
about twenty minutes, remove the 
Saucepan from the fire, and add the 
sugar stirring in sufficient to swaet- 
en nicely. Let them cook at least 
ten or fifteen minutes longer, after 
adding the sugar, and put into an 
earthern bowl, and let the sauce cool. 
Never strain the sauce. Many do, 
but the Creoles have found out that 
cranberry jelly is a very poor and in- 
sipid sauce, compared with that of 
the whole fruit, when formed into 
a sauce in an earthern mold. Liquid 
cranberry is a very poor apology for 
the dainty crimson mold of the na- 
tive fruit. The following directions 
for cooking this fruit are given in 
detail, because so few know how to 
purchase and prepare it properly: 

Never, when buying cranberries, se- 
lect the pale, whitish fruit. They 
are unripe and unfit for use. Select 
fine, large, crimson-colored fruit. 

Never cook cranberries in a metal 
saucepan; nor even in one of agate 
or the brightest tin. The berries ab- 
sorb the taste, as they are an acid 
fruit, and your best efforts will fail 
in making a fine sauce. Use always 
a porcelain-lined saucepan. 

Do not put much water in the cran- 
berries. The proportion of a half a 
pint cupful to every quart should be 
rigidly observed. 

Never add the sugar to the cran- 
berries until they have first boiled 
steadily at least twenty minutes, or 
felse the cranberries are liable to 
burn. After twenty minutes, add su- 
gar to taste. Do not be sparing of 
the sugar. Be careful to measure 
out a good, full pint for every quart 
of berries you are cooking. Take 
the cranberries off the stove, and stir 
in the sugar thoroughly, and let 
them boil again at least ten or fif- 
teen minutes after you have added 
the sugar. Stir them often to keep 
from burning. 

Never put the cooked cranberries 
into tin or metal molds. Use always 
an earthenware bowl or mold. 

Never dip the molds into water 
before putting in the cranberries. Let 
them be well washed and dried some 
time, as dipping them into water 
renders the cranberries bittejc When 
you wish to remove the cranberries 



150 



from the bowl or mold press them 
on the top, and gently loosen them 
at the bottom by setting the mold 
Into hot water long enough to warm 
It through, and thus loosen the cran- 
berries, without warming them. 

And, finally, remember never to 
strain the cranberries, and not to 
use them on the same day on which 
they were cooked. Let them stand 
at least overnight, or twenty-four 
hours, in a cool place, before serving. 
Serve Cranberry Sauce with Roast 
Turkey. 

Crapaudine Sauce. 

Sauce 9, la Crapaudine. 

1 Pint of Sance Plquante. 
S Chopped Mushrooms. 
1 Teaspoonful of Dry Mustard. 
2 Teaspooufuls of Tarragon Vinegar. 

Put a half pint of very light Pi- 
quante Sauce on the Are, add the 
mushrooms finely chopped and a tea- 
spoonful of dry mustard, which has 
been well diluted in two tablespoon- 
fuls of Tarragon vinegar. Let the 
sauce boil for five minuetes and serve 
hot. 

Creole Sauce. 

Sauce a. la CrSole. 

2 Tomatoes. , 6 Shallots. 

1 Chopped Sweet Pepper. 

1 Glass Sherry. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

Make a Tomato Sauce quite brown. 
(See recipe.) Add the cliopped shal- 
lots and sweet pepper, and, when 
these are browned, add one vrine 
glass full of Sherry wine, seasoning 
highly. Serve with meats. 

Cucumber Sauce. 

Sauce aux Concombres. 

1 Nice, Tender Cucumber. 

2 Tablespooufuls of Prepared Mustard. 
The Yolk of One Egg. Seasoning to Taste. 

Peel and grate the cucumber, and 
add the mustard, mixing thoroughly. 
Add the juice of one lemon and the 
yolk of one egs, beaten thoroughly. 
This Is a delicious salad dressing. 

Currant Jelly Sauce . 

Sauce a, la Gelfie de Groseilles. 

Vs Tumbler of Currant Jelly. 

i Tablespooufuls of Butter. 1 GUI Water. 

1 Gill of Port or Madeira Wine. 

Melt the butter, and add the jelly, 
blending well, and then add the gill 
of wine and water. Add a little salt 
and sugar to taste. The sauce is 
much finer when made of wine with- 
out water, but this is a question of 
taste. If the wine only is used, 
double the proportions, or according 
to taste. This sauce is served with 
Venison and other game. 



Dravni Butter Sauce. 

Sauce aux Beurre. 

2 Tablespooufuls of 'Butter, 

1 Tablespoonful Chopped Parsley. 
Juice of 1 Lemon. 

) This sauce is made simply by melt- 
ing butter and adding a little chopped 
parsley. Add the juice of a lemon, 
if desired. It is used as a garnisli 
for broiled meat, fish, chicken, etc. 

Demi-Glace. 

Demi-Glace. 

1 Pint of Sauce Espagnole. 
1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 
1 Glass of Mushroom Liquor. 
1 Herb Boutiuet. 1 Teaspoonful of Pepper, 
, , , Salt to Taste. 
To one -pint of Sauce Espagnole 
(see recipe) add a glass of Madeira, 
wine arid a glass of mushroom liq- 
uor, a herb bouquet and a teaspoon- 
ful of pepper. Carefully remove all 
fat and set on the fire and cook for 
thirty minutes. Strain and use when 
needed. This sauce is used in all 
recipes where Madeira Sauce is in- 
dicated as a foundation sauce. 

Devil's Sance. 

Sauce &. la Diable. 

1 Onion. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 

3 Tablespooufuls of Butter. 

1 Fickle a Finger Long. 1 Teaspoonful of 

Mustard. 

2 Gills of Consomme. Salt and Cayenne. 
1 Glass of White Wine. Juice of a Lemon. 

Brown the onion in butter, and add 
the two cloves of garlic, minced very 
fine. When brown, add one pickle, 
minced very fine, and add a teaspoon- 
ful of mustard prepared. Then add 
two gills of consommfe and one glass 
of White Wine, and the juice of a 
lemon, and allow It to cook slowly. 
Season with salt and hot pepper 
(piment fort), and serve with shell 
fish, chicken, sweetbreads, etc. This 
is a hot sauce. 

Duxelle Sauce. 

Sauce Duxelle. 

1 Pint of Madeira Sance. 

% Glass of White Wine. 
12 Mushrooms. 2 Shallots. 

% Ounce of Beef Tongue. 
% Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt dnd Pepper to Taste. 

Put half a pint of Madeira Sauce 
and a half glass of White wine in a 
saucepan. Add the mushrooms, which 
must be chopped very fine. Then add 
the shallots, which will have also 
been chopped fine and browned in 
butter. Let this reduce slightly and 
add half an ounce of finely chopped 
cooked beef tongue. Let all boi for 
five minutes and serve hot. 



151 



Elgg Sauce. 
Sauce aux Oeufs. 

The Yollis of S Eggs. 

2 Chopped Hard-Bolled Eggs. 

1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine. 1 Onion, 

6 Peppers. 

2 Tailespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespooufuls 

of Butter. 

H Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. 

1 Piut of Veal or Chicken Broth. 

Chop the onions and put in the 

saucepan with the butter and bay 

leaf. Stir in the flour to thicken and 

moisten with the broth. Mix well, 

and add the nutmeg, and salt and 

pepper to taste. Beat the yolks of 

the eggs separately with the Juice 

of halt a lemon. Pour gradually into 

the sauce, but do not let it boil after 

they are added. Press through a 

sieve, and, w^hen ready to serve. 

sprinkle with two chopped hard-boiled 

eggs and a teaspoonful of minced 

parsley. 

Hard-Egg Sauce. 

Sauce aux Oeufs Durs. 

Make a White Sauce, as above, and 
add three or two hard-boiled eggs, 
chopped, but not too fine, and a little 
flnely-minced parsley as a garnish. 
I'his sauce is served with boiled fish 
or boiled chicken or other fowl. 

Genoese Sauce. 

Sauce a, la Genoise. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

1 GlasatuU of Claret. 
1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
% Pint of Water. 
Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg, and Allspice to Taste. 

Melt a tablespoonful of butter, stir 
in two tablesponfuls of flour, and mix 
well tin smooth. Then add a wine- 
glassful of Claret, stirring all well. 
To this add about half a pint of wa- 
fer, and season with pepper and salt 
and a little nutmeg and allspice. Let 
the sauce simmer and reduce to about 
one-half. Add parsley as a garnish 
and serve with boiled fish or boiled 
meat. 

Giblet Sauce, 
Sauce d'Abbattis. 

The Turkey Giblets. 1 Cnp of (Vater. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the giblets or simply the giz- 
zard into a saucepan and cover well 
tfith water. Let them simmer as 
long as the turkey roasts, then cut 
them fine and take the turkey out 
of the pan on which it has been 
roasted. Add the giblets and stir 
Well, and then add a cup of the water 
in which the giblets have been boiled. 
Season to the taste and serve in a 
sauce dish, pouring over the dressing 
when serving the turkey. 



HQllnndalse Sauce. 

Sauce a. la Hbllandaise. 

1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter. 

The Juice of Half a Lemon. Yolk of 1 Egg,- 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
Sauce k la Hollandaise is nothing 
more than a Drawn Butter Sauce, to 
which the juice of a lemon and the 
yolk of an egg have been added. 
Melt the butter; add the juice of half 
a lemon; mix well and take off the 
stove and add tlie yolk of one egg, 
well beaten. Add a teaspoonful of 
-chopped parsley, beating steadily. 
This sauce is very light, and as soon 
as removed from the lire is .^served 
hot with the fish. 

Horseradish Sauce. 

Sauce au Raifort. 

i 
S Eggs. 1 Cup Cream. Grated Horseradish. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
% Pint of Consomme or Broth. 
Grate the horseradish in sufficient 
quantity for use, and place it in a 
saucepan with the boiling stock. Let 
it boil about ten minutes, or less, 
until tender. Season to taste. In 
the meantime rub the eggs in a bowl 
with the cream, beating, and mixing 
thoroughly. Add these to the horse- 
radish, stirring constantly ,but do 
not let the sauce boil, or the horse- 
radish will curdle. Serve with roast 
meats or with baked ficli. , 

Hunters' Sauie. 

, Sauce a, la Chasiseur. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 

3 Tomatoes. 2 Onions. 6 Mushrooms. 

1 Pint of Consomne. 
Put the flour and butter into a 
saucepan and blend well; then moist- 
en with one pint of consommS or 
water; add the chopped tomatoes, 
onions and mushrooms and season 
with a pinch of salt and pepper; add 
an herb bouquet and let it boil for 
an hour; before serving add the juice 
of a lemon or six drops of vinegar. 
If you have fresh game two table- 
spoonfuls of blood may be added but 
do not let it boil after this. 
Italian Sauce. 
Sauce a. I'ltalienne. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 
8 Shallots, Greens and White. 
1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
% of a Lemon's Juice. % Can Mushrooms. 
Consomme. Salt sCui Pepper to Taste. 
Cayenne to Taste. 

' A Sauce a, i'ltalienne may be either 
brown or white. If fnushrooms are 
used, make a white sauce, that Is, 
let the butter and flour blend with- 
out browning. Add a half cup of 
consomme and a half can of chopped- 



152 



mushrooms, the white of the shallot 
(chopped very fine) and the juice of 
half a lemon. If a brown sauce, add 
the shallots to the butter and flour, 
which you will have browned, using 
the chopped white and green of the 
shallots. Then add a half pint of 
consomme, and let it simmer for 
about an hour, and add the juice of 
a lemon and serve. 

The white sauce is used for fish, 
the brown for meats. Always sea- 
son to taste. 

Financier Sauce. 

Sauce a. la FinanciSre. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

6 Stoned Olives. 12 Musbrooms. 

1 Glass of Sherry Wine. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

A DastL of Cayenne. 

Melt the butter, then remove from 
the fire and add the flour. Blend 
with a wooden spoon till smooth. 
Moisten with one pint of consommS 
till it reaches the consistency of 
cream. Then add the chopped mush- 
rooms, stoned olives, pepper, salt and 
Cayenne. Before serving add the 
wine. Serve hot. 

JoUe Fllle Sauce. 

Sauce a. la Belle Creole. 

The Yolks of 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

M Cup Bread Crumbs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. % Cup of Cream. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the butter into the saucepan, 
and add the flour, letting it blend 
well, without burning or browning, 
for this IS a white sauce. When it 
becomes a delicate yellow, add the 
bread crumbs, stir for one minute, 
and add the half cup of consomme 
or broth. Stir well, and add a half 
cup of cream, and salt and pepper to 
taste. Add the chopped parsley as a 
garnish, and a little onion juice. 
Take off the fire and add the well- 
chopped yolks of two eggs, and a ta- 
blespoonful of lemon juice. Serve 
with boiled fish or boiled meats of 
any kind. 

Lyonuaise Sauce. 

Sauce a. la Lyonnaise. 

1 Dozen Tomatoes. Equal Parts of Onions. 

% Spoon of Butter. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf, Minced 

Fine. 
Sherry to Taste. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

, Make a good Tomato Sauce (see 
recipe), and add to this the equal 
parts of onion browned in butter. 
Stir well, add a little lemon juice, 
and serve with any moats. 



Madeira Sauce. 

Sauce MadSre. 

2 Gills of Espagnole Sauce or Brown Saace. 
1 Gill of Truffles, Out in Two. 
1 Gill of Mushrooms, Cut in Two. 
1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 

Make a Sauoe Espagnole (see re- 
cipe), and let it boil for about five 
•minutes. Add salt and pepper to 
taste, and the mushrooms and truf- 
fles, cut in pieces. Let them boil for 
ten minutes, and then stir in the 
wine. If you have not the Madeira, 
use Sherry wine. Serve with Filet 
•of Beef Roasted, etc. 

Mattre d'Hotel Sauce. 

Sauce a, la Maitre d'Hotel. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 

The Juice of % a Lemon. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

1 Pint of Clear Water. 

Put the butter and the flour in the 
saucepan and let them blend without 
burning. Mix well over a slow fire, 
and add one pint of oonsomm§. Add 
the juice of half a lemon and the 
chopped parsley, and let all boil 
about fifteen minutes. When it 
reaches this point take off the stove 
and add the yolk of one egg, well 
beaten; mix well, stirring round, and 
serve with boiled fish, etc. 

Never add egg while the sauce la 
on the fire, as it will curdle immed- 
iately. 

Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Sauce Mayonnaise. 
Yolk of 1 Egg. 
Sweet Oil. Lemon. Vinegar. 

Pepper and Salt. 
Take the yolk of one fresh egg, 
raw, and put in a bowl. The egg 
and the oil must be cold, and in sum- 
mer it is well to keep the soup plate 
in which you make the dressing on 
cracked ice in a pan, so that the oil 
will not run. Put the yolk in a plate; 
add, drop by drop, a little sweet oil 
from the bottle. When you have 
dropped about a spoonful, being 
careful to work it into the yolk of 
the egg drop by drop and blend all 
the time, take a lemon and drop a 
few drops into the mixture. It will 
at once begin to harden as you stir 
it in. Continue stirring till the egg 
grows hard, and then steadily, drop 
by drop, let the oil fall, working it 
all the time with your fork into the 
egg. Have another spoon, begin to 
jdrop in the lemon juice, working it 
the same way again till It hardens 
the egg. Then begin again with the 
oil and work again, and again drop 
the lemon till you have the juice 
of half a lemon and about two gills 
of oil, finishing with the oil. When 
the egg begins to curdle, add a little 
salt, but do not add this salt till 



' 153 



the mayonnaise is complete. Serve 
very cold, with salads, etc. 

Mayonnaise is the standing sauce 
for chicken salad, shrimp salad, crab 
salad, etc. When making for these 
large salads, as a garnish use three 
yolks of eggs and other ingredients 
in proportion. 

Mushroom Sance. 

Sauce aux Champignons. 

% Pint of Broth (white) or Boiling Water. 

Lemon Juice. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Make a Brown Roux, melting the 
butter in the saucepan, and adding 
the flour, and stirring till well 
browned. Then stir in the boiling 
stock, or water, if you have not the 
stock; add the mushrooms, and salt 
and pepper to taste. Add the juice 
of half a lemon and let it cook for 
about fifteen minutes longer. This 
is a fine sauee for Roast Filet of 
Beef. Pour the sauce over the filet, 
and serve hot. ^ 

Mint Sauce. 

Sauce Menthe. 

1 Good Handful of Mint, Chopped Very Fine. 

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar, 

1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. 
A Pint of White Beef Stock. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Chop one good handful of fresh 
mint and put it in a bowl; add a 
teaspoonful of Tarragon Vinegar and 
one teaspoonful of sugar. To this 
add one pint of good white beef 
stock. Mix all together and place 
in a bain marie or hot-water bath 
— that is, stand in a saucepan of hot 
water on the fire and let it warm 
without boiling. If the mint boils, 
it will be very bitter. Serve with 
roast lamb. 

Xormandy Sance. 

Sauce k la Normande. 

V Pint of Sauce Veloute. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of .Mushroom Liquor. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Fish Stocli. The Yofts of 

2 Eggs. 
Tbe Juice of Half a Lemon. 
Make a pint of Sauce Veloutfi (see 
recipe) and add the mushroom liquor. 
Reduce for about ten minutes and 
add two tablespoonfuls of Fish Stock 
or Oyster Juice; if not at hand add 
hot water. Let it all boil again, 
and then add the yolks of two eggs 
and the juice of a lemon. Strain 
througii a, fine sieve, and add a tea- 
spoonful of fresh butter and serve 
with fish. The sauce should be of the 
consistency of cream. 

Onion Sauce. 

Sauce Soubise. 

8 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
t Tablespoonful of Flour. Lemon Juice. 



Boil the onions until quite tender, 
adding salt and pepper. When soft, 
mash well and pass through a sieve. 
Take one spoon of butter and one of 
flour and melt, blending together 
without burning, or allowing to 
brown. In this cream dissolve the 
purfie of onions, boiling gently for 
ten minutes and stirring well. Add 
the juice of a lemon, a teaspoon of 
vinegar, and serve with cutlets of 
lamb, fried sweetbreads, 'etc. 

Oyster Sauce. 

Sauce aux Hultres.' 

2 Dozen Oysters. The Oyster Water. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the oysters in their own wa- 
ter. Add a nice herb bouquet while 
boiling. Take a tablespoonful of 
butter and one of flour and put into 
a saucepan, and mix well without 
browning; water this with the juice 
of the oysters, sufficient to make one 
pint; season to taste. Let it boil 
for ten or fifteen minutes, and, when 
it reaches a thick consistency, serve 
with freshly added oysters, taking 
the old ones out, because oysters 
that have boiled more than three 
minutes are unfit for eating, being 
hard and indigestible; or the sauce 
may be served without the oysters. 
This is a sauce for boiled fish, etc. 

Parsley Cream Sauce. 

Sauce Sl la Cr&me de Persil. 
A Tablespoonful and a Half of Butter. 

A Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. 
Half a Cup of Water or White Broth. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
To the recipe for White Sauce add 
one tablespoonful and a half of finely 
minced parsley. You may also add 
a tablespoonful of cream. This is 
nice' with boiled fish or boiled chick- 
en. 

Pepper Sauce. 
Sauce Poivrade. 

t Carrot, Minced Fine. 

2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Onion, Minced Fine. 

% Pint of Consomme. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Wineglass of Sherry or Madeira. 

% Grated Lemon. 1 Small Piece of Celery. 

Salt and Blacli Pepper to Taste. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Floor. 
' A Dash of Cayenne. 
Put the butter in the saucepan, 
and, as it melts, add the flour. Let 
it brown slowly, and then add one 
pint of Consomm^. Let it boil, and 
add the minced herbs and vegetables 
and the zest or outer skin of halt a 
grated lemon. (The zest is the skin 
of a lemon, grated off without touch- 
ing the injier white skin or pulp.) 
Let all boil slowly for an hour and a 
half. Add a wineglassful of Sherry 
or Madeira and season with salt and 



154 



black pepper (hot) and a dash of 
Cayenne. Let it boil for ten min- 
utes longer, take off the stove and 
strain, and serve with any game. 

Pepper Sance for Venison. 

Sauce Poivrade pour le Chevreuil. 

1 Carrot, MlQced Fine. 

2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Onion, Minced Fine. 
^ Pint of Consomme. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Wineglass of 'Sherry or Madeira. 

% Grated Lemon. 1 Small Piece of Celery. 

Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoontul Flonr. 
A Dash of Cayenne. 
This sauce is made in exactly the 
same manner as Sauce Poivrade (see 
recipe), with this difference, that 
when it is to be served with veni- 
son a half glass of Currant Jelly is 
added, and the sauce allowed to boil 
ten minutes longer. 

Pickle Sance. 

Sauce aux Cornichons. 
A Tablespoonful and a Halt of Bntter. 

A Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. 
Half a Cup of Water or White Broth. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
To the recipe for White Sauce 
(see recipe) add chopped gherkins, or 
any other vinegar pickles, using 
about two or three. Add, just be- 
fore serving. Serve with fish. 

Piqnant Sance, - 

Sauce Piquante. 

2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 

Leaf. 

2 Pickles, 2 Inches In Length. 

1 Teaspoonful of Strong French Vinegar. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cayenne or Hot Pepper. 
Chop two onions very fine. Smother 
in a tablespoonful <3f butter. When 
well cooked, without burning, add 
one tablespoonful of consommfi or 
water. Add two cloves of garlic, 
minced very fine, and the herbs 
minced very fine. Season to taste 
with hot pepper. Take two pickles 
about two inches in length, and cut 
into thin slices of about a . quarter 
of an inch In thickness. Put this 
into the sauce, with a teaspoonful of 
strong vinegar, and let the whole 
boil about five minutes. Serve with 
boiled beef, boiled beef tongue, boiled 
pork tongufc, or any boiled meats. 

Ponlette Sauce. 

Sauce a, la Poulette. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

^l Pint of Consomme or Water. 

Juice of an Onion. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The Juice of Half a Lemon. 

Melt the butter and flour, blending 

well without browning. Add a half 



pint of water, or consomm§, the 
juice of one lemon, and let it sim- 
mer twenty minutes. Season to 
taste. Take from the Are, add the 
yolks of two well-beaten eggs and 
the juice of a lemon and serve im- 
mediately. No sauce into which the 
yolks or eggs are beaten must be 
set on the fire after adding these. 
If necessary to keep warm, set in a 
bowl of boiling water (a "bain-ma- 
rie") till ready to serve. It is best 
served immediately. 

Ravlgrote Sance (Cold.) 

Sauce Ravigote. 

12 Shallots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Pickle. 

1 Tahlespoonful of Mustard. 

1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. 

The Yolk of an Egg. 
4 Sprigs of Chopped Parsley. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 
Chop the shallots, greens and white 
all very fine, and mince the cloves of 
two garlics very fine. Put these in a, 
bowl, and add one pickle of about 
three inches long, chopped very fine; 
drain the pickle first of all water; 
add a good bunch of parsley, chopped 
very fine. Mix all this together in a 
bowl, and add one tablespoonful of 
mustard. Mix well. Add a good ta- 
blespoonful of vinegar and salt and 
pepper to taste. Beat the yolk of ,an 
egg and mix well in the sauce. This 
sauce is to be served cold, with cold 
meats, turkey or fowl. 

Ravlgrote Sauce (Hot), 

Sauce Ravigote. 

12 Shallots. 1 Tahlespoonful of Vinegac 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Chop the parsley very fine. Have 
ready a "Sauce Veloutfie." (See re- 
cipe.) Add the other ingredients. 
Mix well. Place in a saucepan and 
set in boiling water and let it heat, 
and serve hot with fish, white meats 
of chicken, etc. 

Sance RSmoulade. 

RSmoulade (Cold). 

3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Raw Tolk of Egg. 

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

% Clove of Garlic, Mince^ Very Fine. 

V4 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

A R6moulade is a cold sauce, and 

is always served with cold meats. 

Boil the eggs till hard. Remove the 

shells and set aside the whites, which 

you will have crumbled fine for a 

garnish. Put the yolks into a bowl 

mash very fine, till perfectly smooth, 

add the mustard and mix well, and 

the seasonings of vinegar and salt 

and Cayenne to taste. Then add 

the olive oil, drop by drop, 

working in the egg all the time, and 

then add the yolk of the raw egg. 



155 



and work in thoroughly, till light. 
Then add the juice of half a lemon. 
Mix well, increasing the quantities 
of oil or vinegar, according to taste, 
very slightly. If the sauce is not 
thoroughly mixed, it will curdle. It 
is now ready to be served with cold 
meats, fish or salads. 

Green RCmouladc. 

R§moulade Verte. 

3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 1 Raw Tolk of Egg. 

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar, 

3 Tablcspoonfuls ot Olive Oil. 

% Clove ot Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 

^ Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. ^^ 

A Green Rgmoulade is made in ex- 
actly the same manner as the above, 
only it is colored with the juice ot 
spinach or parsley, using about two 
tablespoonfuls of either. 

Robert Sauce. 

Sa,uce Robert. 

2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful ot Butter. 
2 Cloves of Garlic. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 
2 Pickles, 2 Inches In Length. 
1 Teaspoonful of Strong French Vinegar. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Cayenne or Hot Pepper. 
Make a Sauce Piquante (see recipe) 
and add a teaspoonful more of pre- 
pared mustard, and two more of 
minced parsley, the juice of a lemon, 
and let it boil up once, and serve 
with steak,, pork chops, liver saut6, 
turkey or goose. 

Spanish Sauce. 

Sauce Bspagnole. 
% Pound of Brisket or Veal. 
Bones of Beef. 
1 Quart of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 

% Can Mushrooms or Vi Can Truffles. 

1 Carrot. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 

2 Sprigs Each "of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 
1 Wineglass of Sherry. 
Take a good quantity of bones, 
place in a quart of boiling water, 
and make a strong consomm6, sea- 
soning well with salt and pepper. 
Take a piece of the brisket or neck 
of the beef, and roast rare, so that 
the blood spurts out when pricked 
with a needle. After roasting cut 
It in pieces of about one Inch square. 
Take two tablespoonfuls of lard and 
three of flour, and brown slightly, 
stirring all the time. After brown- 
ing add the water of the consomms. 
which has been reduced to about half 
A pint, pouring it in slowly and stir- 
ring constantly. Then add all the 
pieces of the roast beef which you 
have cut. Add three carrots, two 
cloves of garlic, one onion, a herb 
bouquet, tied together, of thyme, par- 
sley and bay leaf, and let the whole 



boil well two hours, stirring every 
five minutes, until reduced to the 
consistency of starch. Then strain 
well through a strainer or sieve, 
season to taste, and set back on the 
stove to cook a few minutes longer. 
Add one wineglass or two table- 
spoonfuls of Sherry to dissolve, and a 
half pint of broth. Set it to boil 
again, and add a half can of mush- 
rooms or truffles, as desired. It is 
used for all meats, fish and fowl, 
served hot. 

Sauce Tartare. 

Sauce a, la Tartare. 

A Mayonnaise Sauce. , 8 Shallots. 

H Clove of Garlic. 1 Pickle. 
A Handful of Parsley. Minced Fine. 
1 Teaspoonful Mustard. 
Prepare the Mayonnaise as di- 
rected above. Put in a bowl a half 
dozen shallots, greens and all, and 
chop fine; add a handful of parsley, 
chopped fine; and the half-minced 
clove, and one whole pickle, well 
chopped. Mix all this together and 
put in a cloth and strain out the 
juice 'by pressing. Add this Juice to 
the Mayonnaise, and add one tea- 
spoonful of mustard, salt, Cayenne 
^nd black pepper to taste. This is 
served with filet of trout, etc. 
Tomato Sauce. 
Sauce aux Tomates. 

1 Dozen Tomatoes. 
% Spoonful of Butter. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 
MlDCed Fine. 
Sherry to Taste. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Take one dozen large, tomatoes, or 
one can, and put In a pot to boil, 
with one-half tablespoonful of but- 
ter. Add salt and pepper to taste, 
and one pint of water. Let it cook 
for about ten minutes and add 
minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, 
very fine, and two cloves of garlic, 
minced fine. Let it boil, and, when 
well boiled, take from the fire and 
mash through a sieve, reducing to a 
pulp. Take a tablespoonful of flour 
and put in a saucepan, and add a 
half spoon of flour. When it blends 
and browns nicely, add the tomato 
juice, season nicely to taste, and, 
when ready to serve, add chopped 
parsley as a garnish. Serve with 
meat, fish or game. 

Veloute Sauce. 
Sauce Veloutfie. 

S Ounces Butter, or 1 Tablespoonful and a 
Half. 
1 Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. 
, 2 Gills of Water. 

The Well-Beaten lolks of 2 Eggs. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Juice ot a Lemon. 
1 Tablespoonful ot Chopped Parsley. 



156 



Blend the flour and butter as in 
White Sauce, only letting it become 
slightly yellow. Add by degrees the 
boiling water, and season to taste. 
A tablespoonful of white wine is a 
fine addition. Add the juice of half 
a lemon, and a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley. Let it simmer for 
about ten minutes, and take from 
the fire, and add the well-beaten 
yolks of two eggs. Serve immedi- 
ately with any boiled fish or meats. 

Tlnalgrctte Sauce. 

Sauce Vinaigrette. 

12 Shallots. 2 Tablespoonfals of Vinegar. 

5 TaWespoonluls of Oil. 

2 Tableepoontuls of Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Mix all together as in a Sauce Ra- 

vigote, cold (see recipe), and add the 

oil and vinegar; serve cold, with 

cold boiled meat, cold boiled fish, 

etc. 

White Sauce. 

Sauce Blanche. 

A TaWespoonful and a Half of Butter. 
A Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. 

Half a Cup of Water or White Broth. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Blend the flour and butter in the 
saucepan without browning in the 
least. Add by degrees the boiling 
water or White Consommg of veal 
or chicken, stirring until smooth, and 
boiling three minutes. Salt and pep- 
per to taste. Add the juice of half 
a lemon. If the sauce is to have 
other ingredients, this is the foun- 
dation for them. It must be of the 
consistency of thick starch to be- 
gin with, in the latter case. 

White Sauce. 

Sauce Allemande. 

4 Pounds of Raw Veal. 

The Bones of a Chicken. 



1 Gallon of Water. 1 Carrot. 1 Tamlp, 

Celery Tops. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Spoonfuls of Lard. 

1 Herb Bouquet of Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. 

1 Stalk of Celery. 2 Long Carrots. 
1 Wineglassful of Madeira or Sherry Wine. 

Take the veal and the bones of the 
chicken and put into a pot with a, 
gallon of water. Add the herb bou- 
quet, tied together, and one chopped 
carrot, one turnip chopped, celery 
tops, and other ingredients of a 
good "pot-au-feu." Let all boil slow- 
ly for three hours until it is reduced 
one-half. Then salt and pepper to 
taste. This will give a white broth 
or consomme blanc. When boiled to 
this point, take off the flre and strain 
the broth into a jar. Now take two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and three 
of flour, and put into a saucepan to- 
gether, letting the butter and flour 
blend, without browning. Add all 
the broth to this, . stirring slowly 
while on the fire. Add- a good, strong 
bouquet of herbs, thyme, parsley and 
bay leaf, all tied whole together. Add 
two large carrots, and let it boil till 
reduced to one-half again. After it 
has reduced, season to taste, and 
when it has reached the consistency 
of starch take off the fire and strain 
and let it get cool. This sauce is 
used for all white meats and fish. 
When used for fish take one table- 
spoonful and moisten with a little 
fish broth. Add a wineglass of Sher- 
ry or Madeira, and set on the fire to 
heat, and add a pint of consomm6 or 
broth. This sauce Allemande will 
keep at least one month in our clim- 
ate, in the ice box. If one prefers 
to maks it as needed, follow the 
proportions of one tablespoonful of 
butter, two of fiour, and one pint of 
boiling broth. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



SALADS. 



Des Salades. 



The Creoles have always been fa- 
mous for the excellent salads which 
grace their tables. Salad, like soup, 
or gumbo, is the daily accompaniment 
of dipner in even the most humble 
Creole home. They hold, one and all, 
that a good salad is a most delightful 
dish, but a poor one is worse than 
none at all. 

The old Spanish proverb that "to 
make a perfect salad there should 
be a miser for vinegar, a spendthrift 
for oil, a wise man for salt, and a 



madcap to stir all these ingredients, 
and mix them well together," still 
holds as the unfailing Creole rule in 
making a good salad. The reason 
is clear. For the dressing of the 
salad should be saturated with the 
oil, before the salt, pepper and vin- 
egar are added. Results have proven 
however, where the salad is dressed 
in the bowl, that there can never 
really be too much vinegar, for, from 
the specific gravity of vinegar, com- 
pared to the oil, what is useless will 



157 



fall to the bottom ot the bowl. By 
dissolving the salt in the vinegar, in- 
stead of the oil, too it beconies more 
thoroughly distributed throughout 
the salad. But this will not hold 
where each makes his own salad 
dressing at table, as is common in 
Creole families. 

The simple French Dressing for 
salads is always the best for daily 
use, and also for formal dinners. It 
is not only lighter, as compared to 
the Mayonnaise Dressing, and, there- 
fore, far more acceptable at dinners 
where the courses are many, but the 
Creoles hold, like the French, that 
it is the only dressing for salads 
that are not intended for luncheons 
or teas, such as chicken, shrimp or 
crab salads. A Mayonnaise Dressing 
for salad should never be used at the 
family dinner or formal dinings. 

A meat salad is never an economi- 
cal article of food, if one counts all 
the items of cost. The wretched 
combinations, too, which pass for 
Mayonnaise, and which are nothing 
more than a paste spread over the 
top of the salad, or stirred through 
with a mixture of pepper, vinegar 
and salt, cannot be too greatly con- 
demned. The making of a good Ma- 
yonnaise is a matter of art, and re- 
quires the skilL that comes from ex- 
perience. Practice will teach that 
there is no need for useless expendi- 
ture of. time in making this dressing, 
and that once you have learned the 
simple trick of securing the good 
start in the way of blending, or rath- 
er "working," the oil into the egg, 
drop by drop, the task of making a 
fine Sauce a. la Mayonnaise, becomes 
a very simple and easy one. The 
Mayonnaise, which is intended, as 
stated above, only for meat dressings, 
and the French Salad Dressing are 
the only two in general use In Cre- 
ole households. 

The Creoles serve salads for break- 
fast, luncheon and dinners, while no 
elegant supper is considered com- 
plete without a salad. The ancient 
Creole dames have always declared 
that for health the green salad, with 
the simple French Dressing, is the 
proper one. Such a salad is to be 
found daily on their tables. Make 
the French Dressing acc»rding to 
the directions given in the subjoined 
recipes, and pour this over the let- 
tuce, with a tablespoonful of pars- 
ley, cut very fine, sprinkled over 
again. Salads of this order, are, in- 
deed, the most healthful in the world. 
The old Creoles say that the family 
that eats much oil will never know a 
headache, and the medicinal virtues 
of lettuce and celery are such as are 
acknowledged by physicians, and all 
nervous and energetic people require 
them as sedatives. The French say 
that the Americans eat too much 
meat, and too little vegetables. Hap- 
pily, the Creoles know how to blend 



both, and they declare that this ac- 
counts for the longevity and good 
health of the ancient members of 
the race. 

Plain French Dressings for Salads. 

Assaisonment Frangais. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of the Best Olive Oil. 

1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar, According to 

Taste. 

Vi Teaspoonful of Salt. 

Vi Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 

First put the oil into a small bowl. 
Then add gradually the salt and pep- 
per until all are thoroughly mixed. 
Then add gradually the vinegar, stir- 
ring continually for about a minute. 
It is now ready to pour over the sal- 
ad, and remember that it must be 
mixed thoroughly. The proportion of 
vinegar varies according to the salad 
to be dressed. Lettuce salad requires 
but little; tomato salad, corn salad or 
Doucette require more. Serve this 
dressing with lettuce, tomato, onion, 
cucumber and other vegetables and 
green salads. 

Frencb Dressing No. 3. 

Assaisonment Frangais. 

3 Talilespoonfuls of Oil. 

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. 

A Saltspoon Bacli of Black Pepper and Salt. 

Chopped Onion and Parsley. 

The Juice of Half an Onion. 

Mix these in the order given above, 

adding the onion Juice and parsley, 

well chopped, last. This is a more 

elaborate French dressing. Serve 

with the same salads as above. The 

oil' may be omitted for those who do 

not like it, but it will be no longer 

in either of these recipes a French 

Dressing. The Creoles hold that the 

oil is a very healthy, digestible and 

essential ingredient. 

JUustard Dressing. 

Assaisonment a. la Moutarde. 

1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. 

1 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

The Yolk of 1 Egg, If Desired. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Blend the mustard and the oil, add- 
ing the latter, drop by drop at first, 
and then proceeding more confidently. 
Whenever the dressing appears to be 
curdling, add a few drops of vinegar, 
and work rapidly till it becomes 
smooth again. Add the salt and 
pepper, and when the dressing is 
finished, use It for celery salad, fish, 
tomatoes, potatoes, etc. If the oil 
appears to separate from the other 
ingredients, It- can always be rubbed 
into them smoothly again by adding 
a few drops of vinegar. In all these 
salads the question of oil and its 
measurements can only be approxi- 
mated. Good judgment must al- 
ways be the final test. 



158 



Creole Freucb Dresslnsr. 

Assaisonment a. la Creole. 

3 Tablespoontuls of the Best Olive Oil. 

1 Tablespoouful of Vinegar. 

1 Teaspoonful Mustard. 

The Yolk of a Hard-Bolled Egg. 

Salt and Feppez to Taste. 

Blend the oil and salt and pepper 
in the manner above indicated, and 
then add these to the mustard drop 
by drop, alternating with the vinegar. 
When well blended add the well- 
mashed yolk of a hard-boiled egg. 
Stir well, and serve with lettuce, 
celery or potato salad. 

Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Sauce Mayonnaise. 

yolk of 1 Egg. 
Sweet Oil. Lemon. Vinegar, 

Pepper and Salt. 
Take the yolk of one fresh egg, 
raw, and put it in a bowl. The egg 
and the oil must be cold, and in sum- 
mer it is well to keep the soup plate 
in which you make the dressing on 
cracked ice in a pan, so that the oil 
will not /•un. Put the yolk In a, 
plate; add, drop by drop, a little 
sweet oil from the bottle. When 
you have dropped about a spoonful 
being careful . to work it into the 
yolk of the egg drop by .drop and 
blend all the time, take a lemon and 
drop a few drops into the mixture. 
It will at once begin to harden as 
you stir it in. Continue stirring till 
the egg grows hard, and then stead- 
ily, drop by drop, let the oil fall, 
working it all the time ' with your 
fork into the egg. Have another 
spoon, begin to drop in the lemon 
juice, working It the same way 
again till it hardens the' egg. Then 
begin again with the oil and work 
again, and again drop the lemon till 
you have the juice of half a lemon 
and about two gills of oil, finishing 
with the oil. When the egg begins 
to curdle, add a little salt, but do . 
not add this salt till the Mayonnaise 
is complete. Serve very cold, with 
salads, etc. 

Mayonnaise is the standing sauce 
for chicken salad, shrimp salad, crab 
salad, etc. When making for these 
large salads, as a garnish use three 
yolks of eggs and other ingredients 
in proportion. 

R£moalade Dressing, 

Sauce Remoulade. 

3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 1 Raw Yolk of Egg. 

1 Tablespoontul of Tarragon Vinegar. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

H Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 

% Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

A RSmoulade is a cold sauce, and is 
always served with cold meats. Boil 
the eggs till hard. Remove the shells 
and set aside the whites, which you 



will have crumbled fine for a gar- 
nish. Put the yolks Into a bowl, and 
mash very fine, till perfectly smooth. 
Add the mustard, and mix well, and 
the seasonings of vinegar and salt 
and Cayenne to taste. Then add the 
olive oil, drop by drop, working in 
the egg all the time, and then add 
the yolk of the raw egg, and work 
in thoroughly, till light. Then add 
the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, 
increasing the quantity of oil or vin- 
egar, according to taste, very slight- 
ly. If the sauce is not thoroughly 
mixed, it will curdle. It is now ready 
to be served with cold meats, fish or 
salads. 

Vinaigrette Dressing. 

Sauce Vinaigrette. 

12 Shallots. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar, 

5 Tablespoonfuls of Oil. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Chopped Pareley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Mix all together, as in a Sauce 

Ravigote, cold (see recipe), and add 

the oil and vinegar; serve cold, with 

cold boiled meat, cold boiled fish, 

etc. 

AnchoTT Salad. 

Salade d'Anchois. 

1 Box of Anchovies. 
A Plain French Dressing, 
Cut the sardines into pieces of 
about an inch in length. Season 
nicely with a French Dressing and 
serve. This is a delicious luncheon 
dish. 

Artichoke Salad. 

Artiohauts en Salade. 

1 Pint of Cold Boiled Artichokes. 

1 Teaspoonful of Vinegar. 
1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley, 
French Dressing, 
Boil the Artichokes. (See recipe). 
When cold, peel them and cut into 
quarters. Add chopped parsley and 
the French dressing; mix, and serve 
very cold. 

Tips of Asparagns Salad, 

Pointes d'Asperges en Salade, 

1 Pint of Asparagus Tips. 

A Plain FreOch Dressing. 
Boil the Asparagus tips. (See re- 
cipe.) When cold, place on a dish 
and garnish nicely. Serve very cold, 
with French Dressing. 

Bean Salad. 

Salade d'Haricots. 

1 Pint of Cold Beans. 
Vinaigrette Sauce. 
This is a nice way of utilizing cold 
left-over red or white beans. Serve 
with a Vinaigrette Sauce. (See re- 
cipe.) 



159 



Beet Salad. 

Salade de Betteraves. 
4 Large Red Beeta. French Dressing. 
Boll the beets till done, and then 
peel and slice nicely. Set them to 
cool and pour over them a French 
dressing or a plain dressing of vin- 
egar, salt and pepper. This is a nice 
spring or winter salad in New Or- 
leans. 

CaulIflOTrer Salad. 
Chou-fleur a. la Vinaigrette. 

1 Pint of Boiled Cauliflower. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Faraley. - 

1 Teaspoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. 

A French Dressing (plain). 

Boil the cauliflower as directed. 
(See recipe.) Then separate the 
flowerets; mix them with parsley, 
and cut the remainder very fine and 
mix also. Let it cool. Serve with 
a French dressing, after adding flrst 
an extra teaspoonful of Tarragon 
vinegar. This is a famous and very 
popular Creole way of serving cauli- 
flower. 

Celery Salad. 

Salade de Celeri. 

1 Pint of Crisp French Celery. 
2 Eard-Boiled Eggs. French Dressing. 

Cut the celery into pieces of about 
a quarter of an inch. Chop two hard- 
boiled eggs, not too fine, and mix 
well with the chopped celery. Blend 
all with French dressing and serve. 
This is a delicious salad. 

Celery Mayonnaise. 

Mayonnaise de Celeri. 

1 Pint of Crisp White Celery. 
A Mayonnaise Sance. 
Chop the celery, or rather cut fine, 
as indicated in the above recipe. Mix 
the Mayonnaise with it. Garnish 
nicely with celery tips and serve. The 
mustard dressing is even nicer than 
the Mayonnaise for this salad. 

Chervil Salad. 

Salade de Cerfeuil. 

1 Pint of Chervil. 
A Plain French Dressing. 
Chervil is a delicious salad herb, 
much affected by French and Creole 
gourmets. It is served cut fine be- 
tween bits, in the same manner as 
Lettuce Salad, With a French Dress- 
ing. 

Chicken Salad. 
Mayonnaise de Volaille. 

1 Pint of Cold Boiled Chicken. 

% Pint of Mayonnaise Sauce. 

1 Head of Crisp Fresh Lettuce. 

Cut the chicken into small dice. 

Chop half of the lettuce very fine, 

and season well with salt and pepper. 

Make a bed of the remainder of the 

lettuce leaves, and place first a layer 



of the chicken and then of the let- 
tuce, until you have used all. Spread 
the Mayonnaise Sauce over the top 
nicely, and garnish prettily with slic- 
es of cold hard-boiled eggs, sliced 
beets, celery tips, etc. For chicken 
and celery salad follow the recipe 
for Volaille en Salade, given under the 
heading of "Poultry." (See recipe.) 
Left-over chicken may be utilized In 
either of these salads. 

Crab Salad a la Mayonnaise. 

Mayonnaise de Crabes. 
1 Pint of the Meat of Crab (hard shell). 
Mayonnaise. 
Hard-Bolled Eggs. Garnishes. 
Boil and pick crabs sufficient to 
give a pint of meat. (See recipe for 
Boiling Crabs.) Season well with 
salt and pepper. Place in a dish, on 
a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, spread- 
ing over them the Mayonnaise Sauce, 
and garnish nicely with hard-boiled 
eggs, sliced beets and tips of celery. 

Crawfish Salad. 

Mayonnaise d'ficrevisses. 

3 Dozen Crawfish. 

A Sauce a la Mayonnaise. 

Boil the crawfish, pick the meat 

out of the shells, heads and tails, 

break them into pieces, and prepare 

in exactly the same manner as Shrimp 

Salad. 

Cress Salad. 

Salade de Cresson. 
Cress. Vinegar. Salt and Pepper. 
Prepare in exactly the same man- 
ner as lettuce, washing and bringing 
to the table firm and crisp. In this 
salad use for dressing only Tarragon 
vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. 

Cucnmber Salad. 

Salade de Concombres. 

2 Fine Cucumbers. 
A Plain French Dressing. 
Wash and slice two nice young 
c^icumbers, and use a plain dressing 
of vinegar, salt and pepper. This 
is a very delicious salad. There are 
many so-called elegant novelties in- 
troduced lately in the way of serving 
cucumbers, such as stuffed cucum- 
b'ers, fried cucumbers, etc. The Cre- 
oles look with disdain, and justly, 
on these silly innovations in the serv- 
ing of a vegetable which nature in- 
tended to be used for salad purposes, 
and nothing else. 

Com Salad, 

Salade de Maches, ou Doucette, 

1 Pint of Corn Salad. 
A Plain French Dressing. 

This is an excellent salad, and is 
prepared and served with a French 
dressing. Take one pint of fresh 
Doucette and pare off the outer stale 



100 



leaves, if there are any; cut off the 
roots. Wash the Doucette well in 
two waters, drain in a napkin and 
place in the salad bowl. When ready 
to serve add a plain French dressing 
but not before. Mix well, so that 
every portion will be impregnated 
with the dressing. Serve very cold. 
A garnish of two hard-boiled eggs, 
sliced or cut in quarters, or of two 
medium-sized beets, which may be 
added both for taste and effect. 

Dandeloin Salad. 

Salade de Dent-de-Lion 

1 Pint of Fresh White Dandelion. 
A. Plain French Dressing. 

Cut off the roots and green portion 
of the leaves; wash and steep in salt 
and water. When they become crisp, 
drain and press dry; rub the salad 
bowl with a clove of garlic and sea- 
son the dandelions with French 
dressing. This salad may also be 
served with two hard-boiled eggs 
cut in quarters or sliced and laid 
over; or with two medium-sized 
beets, sliced, and seasoned with a 
plain French dressing. 

Endive Salad. 

Salade de Chicor^e. 

1 Pint of Endives. French Dressing. 
1 Teaspoonfnl of Chervil, Chopped Very Fine. 

Prepare the endives in the same 
manner as the lett-uoe. When ready 
to serve, add the chervil and the 
French dressing. If endives stand, 
like lettuce, they will wilt after be- 
ing dressed. Serve immediately. 

Fish Sulad. 

Salade de Poisson a, la Mayonnaise. 

1 Pint of Cold Boiled Fish. 
1 Head of liCttuce. Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Use cold boiled left-over fish,, pick- 
ing nicely into bits of about an inch 
and a half square. Follow the same 
directions as in the above recipes, 
only do not mix lettuce and flsh in 
layers. There is nothing nicer than 
a flne flsh salad. 

Green Pepper Salad. 

Salade de Piments Doux a. la Cr6ole. 

4 Tomatoes. 2 Green Peppers. 1 Large Onion. 
French Dressing, Plain. 

Slice the tomatoes, onions and 
green peppers nicely and thin, ar- 
range on a dish, placing a layer of to- 
matoes, an alternate layer of onion 
and green pepper, and tomatoes 
mixed. Dress either before bringing 
to the table, or at the table, with 
French dressing. This is a great 
Creole family salad, and a very 
healthy one. 



Green Peppers 2k I'lSspgnole, 

Piments Verts en Salade a I'Es- 

pagnole. 
6 Green Peppers. 3 Tomatoes. 
A Plain French Dressing. 
Parboil the peppers so that they 
will peel easily, and scald the toma- 
toes. Peel them, removing the seeds 
of the peppers. Cut the peppers into 
one-inch pieces, slice the tomatoes, 
and serve with plain French dress- 
ing as a Salad. 

Lentil Salad. 

Salade de Lentilles. 

1 Pint of Lentils. 
A Vinaigrette Sauce (See Recipe). 
Lentils are prepared in the same 
manner as Bean Salad (see recipe), 
and served with Vinaigrette Sauce. 
They make a cheap, excellent and 
healthy salad. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Salade de Laitue. 
3 Heads of Lettuce. 
French Dressing. 2 Eggs. 
Take fresh, crisp lettuce of suffi- 
cient quantity for the number to be 
served, three young heads being 
enough for six. Dip in cold water 
examining each leaf, and pick over 
carefully, and select the fresh crisp 
leaves. Place all these in a salad 
bowl, and garnish nicely with sliced 
hard-boiled egg. Never dress the 
lettuce before bringing to the table. 
The vinegar causes the leaves to wilt 
utterly, and takes away all the rel- 
ish which one experiences from look- 
ing at a fresh, crisp dish, and also 
spoils a flne table garnisli. Bring to 
the table, and let the sauce, always a 
plain French dressing or Creole dress- 
ing preferred, be made at the table. 
Generally each makes the dressing to 
suit himself or herself, using propor- 
tions of greater or lesser quantity 
than those mentioned in the recipe. 
If one person dresses the salad for 
the table, use the proportions given 
above in any of the French salad 
dressings for this amount of let- 
tuce. This is one of the nicest and 
most refreshing as well as one of 
the healthiest of all salads. 

Louisiana Salad. 

Salade Louisianaise. 

2 Lettuce Heads. 6 Pickled Cucumbers. 
2 Dozen Pickled Onions. A Plain FrencU 
Dressing. 
Use, in this fancy salad, lettuce, 
pickled cucumbers, pickled onions, 
cut in dice, and serve with a French 
dressing. 

Olxra Salnd. 
Salade de Fevi. 

i Dozen Boiled Young Okras. 
French Dressing. 
Boil the okra as directed. (See re- 
cipe.) When cold, dress nicely with 



161 



vinegar, salt and pepper, or, if pre- 
ferred, the plain French dressing, and 
serve very cold. This is a most de- 
lightful summer salad, the okra being 
very cooling in our tropical climate. 

Spanish Salad. ' 

Salade t I'Espagnole. 

t Sliced Tomatoes. 2 Dozen Pickled Onions. 
% Pint of Mayonnaise Dressing. 
This is a very much affected salad, 
made of sliced tomatoes and pickled 
onions, prettily arranged around a 
small bed of Mayonnaise heaped in 
the center. 

String Bean Salad. 

Haricots Verts en Salade. 

1 Pint of Gold Boiled String Beans. 
French Dressing (plain). 
Only very young and tender beans 
should be used for this salad. Boil 
as directed under the heading "Veg- 
etables," and put the beans in a sal- 
ad bowl and allow to cool well. Serve 
with a plain French dressing, or, 
better still, a simple dressing of vin- 
egar and a dash of Cayenne. 

Tomato Salad. 

Salade de Tomates. 

4 Fresh Fine Tomatoes, 
Frenoh Dressing. 

Slice the tomatoes nicely and place 
on a salad dish. Never peel or scald 
tomatoes intended for salad. Serve 
nicely with a plain French dressing 
or any of the above dressings. To- 
matoes may also be served with Ma- 
yonnaise dressing. In this case place 
them on a bed of crisp, fresh lettuce. 
whole, and serve one to each person, 
or cut them in halves. Tomatoes 
with Mayonnaise is a luncheon dish, 
or a supper dish. 

Iced Tomatoes. 

Tomates Frappg. 

9 Whole Tomatoes. 1 Pint Mayonnaise Sance. 
A Garnish of Chopped Ice. 
Take the tomatoes whole. Lay on 
a bed of lettuce or cress, as indi- 
cated above. Garnish with chopped 
Ice, and serve very cold with Mayon- 
naise Sauce. This is delicious and 
very elegant. 

Tomato, Green Pepper and Onion 
Salad. 

Salade a. la Crgole. 
4 Tomatoes. 2 Green Peppers. 1 large Onion. 

French Dressing, Plain. 
Slice the tomatoes, onions and green 
peppers nicely and thin; arrange on 
a dish, placing a layer of tomatoes, 
an alternate layer of onion and green 
pepper, and tomatoes mixed. Dress 
either before bringing to the table, 
or at the table, with French dress- 
ing. This is a great family salad 
among the Creoles, and a very 



healthy one. The Creoles follow the 
old adage, that the taste of the on- 
ion must only lurk within the bowl 
when using it for salad. More than, 
this renders the salad disagreeable 
and coarse. 

Watercress Salad. 

Salade de Cresson. 

1 Pint of Watercress. 
Minced Potato, If desired. 

A Plain French Dressing. 
This salad is made of watercress 
simply, or watercress and minced po- 
tatoes, mixed in equal quantities, and 
served with a French dressing. It 
is a most healthy, light and excellent 
salad, especially in summer. The 
salad is delightful without the pota- 
toes. They may be added if desired. 

The Gardener's Wife Salad. 

Salade a. la JardiniSre. 

1 Carrot 3 Beets. 
% Cup of Green Peas. 1 Cup String Beau. 
A Plain French Dressing. 
Take fine strips of vegetables of 
different colors, cooked and cojd, 
with green peas and string beans, 
and dress nicely with oil and Vin- 
egar and serve. 

Sardine Salad. 

Salade de Sardines. 

1 Box Sardine^. 
A Plain French Dressing. 
Cut the sardines into pieces of 
about half an inch in length. Season 
nicely with a French dressing and- 
serve. This is a delicious luncheon 
dish. 

Potato Salad. 

Salade de Pommes de Terre. 

3 Large Cold Boiled Potatoes. 

2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 

9 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 1 Large Onion, 

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 

4 Sprigs of Parsley. 

This is a nice way of utilizing cold' 
left-over potatoes. But the freshly 
boiled potatoes always make the' 
nicest salad. Pare and peel the po- 
tatoes, if freshly boiled, and let them 
cool. Prepare the salad dressing, fol- 
lowing implicitly the directions given 
for plain French' dressing, only here, 
the quantities are larger in propor- 
tion. Add the vinegar, stirring con- 
constantly. A dash of mustard may 
be added, if desired. Mince the on- 
ion very fine, and cut the potatoes 
into dice or slices, and mix them 
carefully with the onion. Then add 
the dressing, turning the potatoes in-, 
to it without breaking. Sprinkle all 
with parsley, nicely chopped, and', 
serve cold. 



Russian Salad. 

Salade a, la Russe. 

2 Carrots, 2 Parsnips. 

1 Cup of Cold Mlneefl Fowl. 3 Anchovies. 

1 Dozen Oliyes. 3 Caviares. 

1 Tablespoonful of Sauce a la Tartare. 

1 Teaspoonful of Mustard. 
This salad is made of cooked car- 
rots parsnips, beets, cold roast beef, 
cold' ham, a truffle (if it can be af- 
forded), all cut into fancy or dice- 
shaped pieces. Use one ounce of each 
of the meats, or simply one cup of 
cold minced fowl, as it may not be 
convenient to have all these meats 
at hand in households. Add six 
boned anchovies, and one dozen olives 
and two caviares, and serve with Tar- 
tare Sauce, or with a French salad 



dTessing, to which mustard lias been 
added. It is a heavy salad. 

Surlinp Salad. 

Salade de Chevrette a. la Mayonnaise. 

2 Pints of Cold Boiled Shrimp. 
1 Head of Crisp Lettuce. Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Talce Lake Shrimp and River 
Shrimp combined, if you have them. 
Cut the larger Lake Shrimp into two. 
Season well with salt and pepper. 
Chop som.e lettuce. Season Well. 
Place first a layer of shrimp and then 
of lettuce, and spread over all a Ma- 
yonnaise Sauce. Garnish nicely with 
sliced hard-boiled eggs, sliced beeta 
and celery and lettuce tips, and serve 
very cold. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
KGGS. 

Des Oeufs. 



A chapter on eggs would be super- 
fluous in any cook book, were it not 
for the fact that there are many, 
many women who cannot tell for a 
certainty just how long to boil an 
egg soft or hard, just when the exact 
point is reached when the omelette 
is cooked to a nicety, and how to 
send to the table in all the perfection 
of good cooking that most delicate 
and palatable dish, the "Scrambled 
Egg." 

This book will not deal with the 
many new and more or less unpala- 
table and undigestible methods of 
cooking eggs, methods which, under 
high-sounding names, nevertheless 
rob the egg of all possible beneficial 
effects by "cooking it to death," for 
an egg that has been cooked or 
boiled for twenty or twenty-five min- 
utes is about as indigestible an ar- 
ticle of food as can be conceived. And 
as for the flavor of the egg, it has 
disappeared. 

The Creoles have very wisely es- 
chewed all innovations in cooking 
eggs that require more than five to 
eight minutes to cook to perfection. 
They cling to the old-fashioned soft- 
boiled egg, the hard-boiled egg, fried 
egg, scrambled and. poached eggs. 
They have retained many ancient 
French and Spanish methods of cook- 
ing eggs, but none of these, followed 
properly, according to the time-hon- 
ored customs, calls for more than 
five or eight minutes at the most in 
cooking. 

The first and most important point 
to be considered in preparing eggs 
for the table is to ascertain whether 
they are perfectly fresh: The fresh- 



er the egg the better. The egg which 
appears moldy or in the least bit 
ancient should be rejected Never, 
under any circumstances, put a taint- 
ed egg in any dish, under the impres- 
sion that other ingredients will hide 
the flavor. Never put such an egg 
in a cake. The presence of one egg 
that is not fresh will ruin an entire 
dish. As a matter of health, above 
all other considerations, such eggs 
should be rejected. 

The old Creole darkies, in common 
with many other people, have a way 
Of finding out whether an egg Is 
fresh by inclosing it in the hollow 
of the hand and looking through it 
with one eye, while shutting the 
other. They aver that if you can 
distinctly trace the yolk in one solid 
mass, and if the white around it 
looks clear, the egg is good. A more 
simple and scientific way, and by 
far a surer one, is to drop the eggs 
into cold water. The fresh ones will 
sink immediately to the bottom, the 
doubtful ones will swim around a 
little before reaching the bottom, 
and the bad ones will float. 

Eggs are among the most nutri- 
tious articles of food substances. 
They are rich in albumen, and their 
free use cannot be too highly reco- 
mended to the delicate, to hard brain 
workers, and to families generally. 

Boiled Xlgss. 

Oeufs a. la Coque. 

Have ready a saucepan of boiling 
water. Use only fresh eggs. Put 
them in the boiling water without 
cracking the shells. If you desire 



163 



soft-boiled eggs, or "Oeufs TVIollets," 
let the eggs boll from two minutes 
to two minutes and a half by the 
clock, keeping the exact time, min- 
ute by minute. The whites will then 
be set. If you desire the yolk to be 
set also in the soft-boiled egg, let 
the eggs boil three minutes, but not 
a second longer. For hard-boiled 
eggs, five minutes is sufficient. Bear 
In mind always that the water must 
be boiling hard before you put the 
egg into it, and that the exact time 
for boiling must be followed by the 
clock or with the watch in hand. 

Poached Bggs. 

Oeufs Pochgs. 
Have the frying pan filled with 
boiling water. Add salt. Some add 
also a tablespoonful of vinegar, but 
this is a 'matter of taste. The eggs 
must be absolutely fresh. Break the 
eggs into a saucer, one by one, and 
gently slip off into the water, with- 
out breaking the yolk. Break anoth- 
er and another, until you have four 
in the pan, and allow the eggs to 
stand apart. Let them boil thus on 
the water, till the white forms a 
thin veil over the yolks. Then the 
eggs are done. Take them up gent- 
ly, neatly round off the ragged edges, 
sprinkle the top with a little black 
pepper, place on buttered toast, and 
serve immediately. 

Fried Ejggs. 

Oeufs Frits. 
6 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfals of Lard. 
The lard must be very. hot. Break 
the eggs gently into a saucer, one 
by one, and drop gently into the 
lard, without breaking the yolks. 
With the spoon take up a little of 
the hot lard and drop gently over the 
top of the egg, if you wish it to be 
quite done. Otherwise simply fry 
till the yolk is set. Slide out on a 
batter cake turner, and place in a 
dish. Sprinkle with salt and black 
pepper, and add. If you wish, a lit- 
tle parsley garnish, and serve very 
hot 

Ham and EsSB. 
Oeufs au Jambon. 

6 Slices of Ham, 6 Eggs. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 
The ham should always be soaked 
in hot water before frying. Cut 
slices of about half an inch in thick- 
ness, of sufficient size to lay an egg 
uppn them. Lay the ham in the hot 
frying pan, and let it fry until the 
fat becomes transparent. Then take 
the slices out and put them on a 
hot dish. Break the eggs, one by 
one, into a saucer, and slip them in- 
to the frying pan, and fry in the 
same lard in which you have fried 
the ham. "When the yolks are quite 
set, take them out, and lay one egg 
on each slice of ham. Garnish nice- 



ly with parsley, and serve hot. This 
is a great Creole breakfast dish. 

Scrambled Egga, 

Oeufs Brouilies. 

6 Fresh Eggs. A Tablespoonful of Batter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Break the eggs into a saucer, one 
by one, and then transfer to a bowl. 
Season well with salt and pepper. 
Have the frying pan very hot. Put 
into it the butter, and add immedi- 
ately the eggs, and keep stirring 
around and around and across for 
about three or four minutes. Judging 
by the consistency of the egg, which 
must be like a thick mush as you 
take it from the fire. Keep stirring 
a few seconds longer after you have 
taken the pan off the fire, and put 
the eggs into a ,hot dish, and gar- 
nish with parsley and serve Immedi- 
ately with buttered toast or broiled 
ham. The beauty of the scrambled 
egg is that the whites and yolks 
are delicately blended. The practice 
of beating the yolks and whites thor- 
oughly together, as for an omelette, 
before scrambling the eggs is to be 
condemned as against the best ethics 
of Creole cookery. There is no com- 
parison in the taste of the scrambled 
egg cooked according to the above 
method, and the eggs in which the 
yolks and whites have been previous- 
ly beaten together. 

Elgga Scrambled In Ham. 
Oeufs Brouillgs au Jambon. 

fi :^ggs. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Finely Minced 
Boiled Ham. 
A Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Mince the ham very fine, and 
break the eggs, one by one, into a 
saucer, and add to the bowl In which 
you have minced the ham. Mix all 
together. Place a tablespoonful of 
butter in the frying pan, add the 
eggs and ham, stir briskly, and when 
it comes to the consistency of starch 
take off the fire, and serve hot on 
buttered toast. 

In the same manner eggs may be 
scrambled with minced truffles, mush- 
rooms, onions, celery or tomatoes. 
Bggs Scrambled With Preserves. 
Oeufs Brouillgs aux Confitures. 
6 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Fruit Marmalade. 
Eggs may also be scrambled with 
marmalade of apricots or prunes, in 
which case they are called "Oeufs 
Brouilies aux Confitures." Follow 
above recipe, using the marmalade 
instead of the ham. 

BSga Fondns. 

Oeufs Pondus au Fromage. 

6 Eggs. 

4 Heaping Teaspoonfuls of Gruyere Cheese, 

Grated. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Break the eggs into a saucepan. 



164 



add the butter, the grated cheese, a 
little salt and pepper. Place the 
saucepan on a hot fire, stir the mix- 
ture around and around till the edges 
begin to thicken, and when of the 
consistency of a thick starch take off 
the Are and serve immediately on 
buttered toast. 

Eggs Wltb Asparnsus Tips. 

Oeufs aux Pointes d'Asperges. 

6 Eggs. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Asparagus Tips. 
1 Xablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Xablespoonful of Milk. Salt and Pepper. 
Buttered Toaat. 
Boil the asparagus tips (see re- 
cipe), and put the eggs into a sauce- 
pan, with the butter, after season- 
ing well with salt and pepper, and 
mixing the milk. Stir a second, and 
throw in the asparagus, and proceed 
to scramble as in preceding recipe. 
Serve on buttered toast. 

Cauliflower may be prepared with 
eggs in the same way. 

Shirred Elggs. 
Oeufs sur le Plat. 

6 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Break the eggs into a thin dish, in 
■which they are to be served, having 
first buttered the bottom of the dish 
or pan. Sprinkle them with salt and 
pepper, pour over a little melted but- 
ter, place in a quick oven, and let 
them bake until the yolks are set. 
Serve in the dish in which they have 
been cooked. 

Eggs & la Foulette, 

Oeufs a, la"" Poulette. 

6 Eggs. ^4 Pint of Sauce a la Ponlette. 
Boil the eggs hard and slice. Pour 
over a Sauce k la Poulette (see re- 
cipe), and serve hot. 

Beauregard Kgga. 

Oeufs a. la Beauregard. 

6 Eggs. % Pint of Fresh Milk. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the eggs for five minutes,' till 
hard. Then take out of the water 
and cool, take off the shells, and se- 
parate the whites from the yolks, 
rubbing the latter through a sieve, 
and chopping the former very fine. 
But do not mix them. Have the 
milk ready to boil, and rub the but- 
ter and cornstarch together, and add 
to the boiling milk. Then add the 
whites of the eggs, and salt and 
pepper to taste. Prepare previous to 
this some buttered toast, and cover 
it now with a layer of this white 
sauce, and then add a layer of the 
yolks of the eggs. Add another layer 



of the sauce, and another layer ot 
the yolks, and then the remainder 
of the sauce. Sprinkle the top with 
a little salt and pepper, and set in 
the oven and let it stand two min- 
utes, and serve hot. 

Plain Omelet. 

Omelette. 

i Fresh Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
If you wish to have the omelet 
very nice, break the whites and yolks 
separately, and beat the former till 
they come to a light froth, and the 
latter till they are quite light. Then 
beat the whites and yolks together. 
Season well. Melt the butter in a 
frying pan, letting it grow hot, but 
not by any means brown. Pour in 
the mixture of egg. Let , it stand 
about two minutes, shaking'occasion- 
ally to prevent it from sticking to 
the pan. Continue shaking over a 
quick fire until the eggs are set. Then 
roll the omelet, folding it in two or 
three rolls and making it long and 
narrow. Take a hot dish, turn the 
omelet into it, garnish with parsley, 
and serve hot immediately, or it will 
fall. It is always easier to make sev- 
eral small omelets and haVe them 
pretty and sightly, than to succeed 
perfectly in making a large one. 

Creole Omelet. 

Omelette a. la Creole. 
6 Fine, Eipe Tomatoes. 2 Onions. 6 Esjs. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Minced Ham. 
% Clove of Garlic. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Scald and skin six fine, ripe toma- 
toes, and chop them fine. Chop two 
onions, and mince the garlic very 
fine, and add a large spoonful of 
bread crumbs. Fry them with a ta- 
blespoonful of butter in a saucepan 
till quite brown. Then add the toma- 
toes, and salt, pepper and Cayenne 
to taste, and let all stew for an hour, 
at least. Prepare the eggs as for 
Ham Omelet (see recipe), and when 
the tomatoes are quite done have 
ready a heated frying pan and a half 
tablespoonful of butter. Pour this 
into the pan. As they become set 
pour in the center the tomatoes, and 
fold the . omelet over, and cook for 
two minutes longer. Roll gently in- 
to a dish and serve hot. 

Ham Omelet. 

Omelette au Jambon. 



Vi Teaspoonful of Flour. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Milk. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Chopped Ham. 

Vi Grated Onion. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Beat the yolks to a cream, and add 

the other ingredients. Rub all these 



165 



smoothly together, and then add the 
■whites of eggs, beaten to a froth. 
Beat all thoroughly together. Put 
a tablespoonful of butter in the fry- 
ing pan. When it melts add the om- 
elet. Let it sand, shaking occasion- 
ally to prevent from sticking to the 
pan, till the eggs are quite set. Then 
fold as in a plain omelet, turn into a 
hot dish, and serve. 

Kldne^r Omelet. 

[ Omeletts aux Rognons. 

3 Kidneys. 6 Eggs. 
1^ Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Cut the fat from the kidneys, wash 
well, and cut into small pieces. Mix 
these with the eggs, which you will 
have prepared as for a plain omelet, 
and proceed as in Ham Omelet. This 
is very nice served with Tomato 
Sauce. 

Mushroom Omelet. 

Omelette aux Champignons. 

6 Eggs. M, Cq:n of Mushrooms. 
V^ Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Stew the mushrooms a few min- 
utes. Then chop them fine. Make a 
plain omelet. When it is ready to 
fold, place the mushrooms across the 
'center, fold twice over, let it cook 
two minutes longer, and serve hot. 

Onion Omelet. 

Omelette a. I'Ognon. 

4 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Large Onion Minced Very Fine. 

Beat the eggs as for a plain omelet. 
Then stew the onions in the butter 
till quite tender. Stir in the omelet 
once, and then let it Cook as in a 
plain omelet. Roll in folds, and serve 
hot. 

Omelet Sonflie. 

Omelette SoufflSe. 

The Whites of 6 Eggs. The Tolks of 4 Eggs. 

The Juice of Half a Lemon, or a Spoon. 

of Orange Flower Water or Kirsch. 

i Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White Sugar. 

Have a baking dish ready, greased 
with butter, and be sure that the 
oven is very hot. Beat the whites 



of the eggs to a stiff froth. Beat 
the yolks and the sugar to a cream, 
and add the Juice of half a lemon 
or a tablespoonful of orange flower 
water or Kirsch. Add the whites of 
the eggs. Stir carefully and heap all 
quickly into the baking dish and 
bake about fifteen minutes, till the 
top is a delicate brown. Serve Im- 
mediately, as it will fall if allowed 
to stand. This may be served as a 
sweet entremet or as a dessert. 

Parsley Omelet. 

Omelette au Persil. 

6 Eggs. VA Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Cut Parsley. 

Proceed In exactly the same man- 
ner as for Plain Omelet, only mix 
a tablespoonful of cut parsley m the 
omelet before putting In the frying 
pan. 

Truffle Omelet. 
Omelette aux TrufCes. 

e Eggs. 2 Truffles. 
1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

An omelet with truffles is made in 
the same manner as a Mushroom 
Omelet. 

Rum Omelet. 

Omelette au Rhum. 

3 Eggs. 1 Glass of Jamaica Rum. 

1 Teaspoonful of Milk. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Beat the yolks well; add the milk, 
and then add the whites of the eggs, 
beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all to- 
gether. The longer the eggs are 
■be4ten, the lighter will be the ome- 
let. Make a plain omelet. (See re- 
cipe ) Fold and turn quickly into a 
hot dish; place three ^fPf^"* i°^i 
sugar on top of the omelet, and bring 
to the table hot. As you place it on 
the table, pour the rum over the ome- 
let and around. Set the run. on fire 
with a match, and with a tablespoon 
dash the burning rum over the ome- 
fet till all the sugar has melted over 
uand all the rum has evaporated. 
When it ceases burning serve immed- 
iately. This Is served as a sweet en- 
tremet. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

L.OUISIAXA rice:. 

Le Riz de la Louisiane. 



The cultivation of rice began in 
Louisiana nearly a hundred years af- 
ter it commenced in Georgia and 
South Carolina, but Louisiana now 
produces more of this beautiful grain 
than both these States combined. It 
Is one of the great Louisiana staples, 
and New Orleans is the distributing 
point of the immense crop that year- 
ly make our immense rice fields of 
southwestern Louisiana the wonder 
and admiration of tourists. 

In no section of the world can rice 
be grown at so small a cost as in 
Louisiana. The cost of growing the 
grain in our matchless clime is small, 
and it requires but little capital to 
begin. 

As remarked in the beginning of 
this book, the consumption of rice 
has increased enormously of late, and 
It will continue to become more and 
more a popular article of fopd when 
the people of the great North and 
West learn how to cook it as well 
as the Creoles of Louisiana. 

The foUoing recipes, carefully se- 
lected from among many that are 
used in this old Creole city of New 
Orleans, will give an idea of how 
rice is prepared and made such a 
delightful article of food in our Cre- 
ole households: 

HoTT to Prepare Rice for Cooking. 

The whiteness of the rice depends 
In a great degree, upon its being 
washed thoroughly. Pick the rice 
clean, and wash it well in cold wa- 
ter before attempting to cook, rub- 
bing the rice w^ell with the hands, to 
get all the dust off. Pour off the first 
water, and add fresh; then pour oft 
this, and add fresh again. The rice 
will then be ready to cook. 

How to Boll Rice. 

When properly boiled, rice should 
be snowy white, perfectly dry and 
smooth; and every grain separate and 
distinct. To attain this end, put a 
quart of water on the fire, and let 
It boil well, with a teaspoonful of 
salt. Wash a cup of rice well In 
cold water. When the water com- 
mences to boil well add the rice. Stir 
occasionally, and gently with a wood- 
en spoon. The boiling water will' 
toss the grains of rice, and prevent 
them from clinging together. As 
soon as the grains commence to soft- 
en, do not, under any circumstances, 
stir or touch the rice again. Let it 
continue to boil rapidly for about 



twenty minutes, or until the grains 
begin to swell out, and it appears 
to thicken. This is easily ascer- 
atined by touching one of the grains 
with your finger. When it has 
reached this stage, take the cover 
off and pour off the water, and set 
the pot in the oven, so that the rice 
may swell up. Let it stand in tlie 
oven about ten ihinutes. Do not let' 
it brown, but simpljr dry — that is, 
let the water which ' rises dry out 
of the rice. Take it off, and let it 
stand a few minutes. Then pour out 
into a dish. Every grain will be 
white and beautiful, and stand apart 
because the drying in the oven will 
have evaporated the moisture, leav- 
ing the rice soft,, snowy white and 
perfectly dry. 

Boiled rice is delicious served with 
chicken, turkey, crab or shrimp or ! 
okra gumbo, as also with many vege- 
tables, all daubes, and with gravies 
of all kinds. It is the standing dish 
on every Creole table. 

Things to Remember In Boiling Rice. 

Never set the rice to cook in cold 
water, or you w^ill have a thick, mushy 
dish that is most unpleasant to the 
sight, and equally so to the taste. 

Always use boiling water. Boll 
rapidly from the time that you cover 
the pot until you take it off, for this 
allows each grain to be tossed away 
from the other constantly, and also 
allows it to swell to three times its 
normal size. The constant motion of 
the water prevents the grains from 
sticking together. 

Do not stir from the moment it 
begins to boil, for it will be no- 
ticed that when first the rice is put 
into the water it will cease boiling 
till the rice is heated. Stir occa- 
sionally during this period, to keep 
it from sinking to the bottom and 
burning, but do not touch it with i. 
spoon or fork or anything, once it 
has commenced boiling. Follow im- 
plicitly the directions about settlngr 
in the oven and allowing the rice to 
"sweat," as the old Creoles say. Tou 
will then have a dish that is not only 
very beautiful and tempting to the 
sight, but most delectable to the 
taste. 

Creole Jambalaya. 
Jambalaya a. la CrSole. 

Jambalaya Is a Spanish-Creole 
dish, which Is a great favorite in 



167 



New Orleans, and is made according 
to the following recipe: 

One and a Half Cups of Blc«. 

1 Pound of FreBh Pork. 1 Slice of Ham. 
1 Dozen Fine Chaurlce (Pork Sausage.) 

2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 
2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

2 Bay Leaves. 2 Cloves Ground Very Fine. 

3 Quarts of Beef Broth or Hot Water 

(Broth Preferred.) 
% Spoonful of Chili Pepper. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Cut the pork very fine, lean and 
fat, into pieces of about half an inch 
square. Chop the onions very fine, 
and mince the garlic and fine herbs. 
Grind the cloves. Put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter into the saucepan, and 
add the onions and pork, and let them 
brown slowly. Stir frequently, and 
let them continue browning slightly. 
When slightly brown, add the ham, 
chopped very fine, and the cloves of 
garlic. Then add the minced herbs, 
thyme, bay leaf and parsley and 
cloves. Let all thrs brown for five 
minutes longer, and add a doz- 
en fine Chaurice, cut apart, and 
let all cook five minutes long- 
er. Then add the three quarts 
of water or broth, always us.- 
ing in preference the broth. Let it 
a,ll cook for ten minutes, and when 
it comes to a boil add the rice, which 
has been carefully washed. Then add 
to this a half teaspoonful of Chili 
pepper, and salt and Cayenne to taste. 
The Creoles season highly with Ca- 
yenne. Let all boil for a half hour 
longer, or until the rice is firm, and 
serve hot. Stir often, to mix all 
well. Ton will then have a real Cre- 
ole Jambalaya. Some use the brisket 
of veal instead of the pork, but there 
is no comparison in the flavor, the 
pprk being so superior. But, again, 
this is a matter of taste. 

Crab JambalaTa. 

Jambalaya aux Crabes. 

1 Dozen Fine, Large Cral)s. 
1% Cups of Eice. 3 Quarts of Broth. 
3 Tomatoes. 2 Onions. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 TaWespoonful of Flour. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 
2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 
% Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. 
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the crabs according to recipe. 
(See Boiled Crabs.) Then cut in 
pieces, cutting the bodies into quar- 
ters. Proceed in exactly the same 
manner as in making Shrimp Jamba- 
laya. 

Jambalaya an Congrl 
Jambalaya au Congri. 

1 Cop of Rice. 
1 Pint of Cowpeas. 
1 Large Onion. 
M Pound of Salt Meat. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 
Chop the small meat, after wash- 
ing, into dice, and mince the ham. 



Boil the cowpeas and the salt meat 
and ham together. Add the onion, 
minced very fine. Boil tl^e rice ac- 
cording to recipe for boiled rice, (see 
recipe.) CIjop the meat well. After 
the peas and the rice are cooked, 
pour the rice into the pot of peas, 
which must not be dry, but very 
moist. Mix well. Let all simmer for 
five minutes, and then serve hot. 
On Fridays and fast days the Creoles 
boil the peas in water adding a ta- 
blespoonful of butter, but no meat. 
It is again buttered according to in- 
dividual taste at table. The jamba- 
laya, however, is much nicer when 
made with the meat. 

Shrimp Jambalaya. 

Jambalaya aux Chevrettes. 

1^ Cups of Rice. 3 Tomatoes. 

80 Lake Shrimp. 
2 Onions. Cayenne to Taste. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 
^ Teaspoonful of Chill Pepper. 
^ Salt. Pepper. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 
2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 
Chop two onions very fine, and put 
them in a saucepan to brown with a 
tablespoonful of butter. After a few 
minutes add. a tablespoonful of flour 
and stir well. Then add chopped 
thyme, bay leaf and parsley, 
and two cloves of garlic, minced very 
fine. Let all of this fry five minutes 
longer, and be careful not to let it 
burn or brown too much. Add a half 
teaspoonful of Chili pepper, and three 
large tomatoes, chopped fine, and also 
add the juice. Let all brown or sim- 
mer for ten minutes longer. When 
cooked, add three quarts of broth or 
water, or, if on Friday, and you do 
not eat meat, add oyster water or 
■plain water (the former preferred) 
which has been Seated to the boiling 
point. Let all boil "well, and then 
add the lake shrimp, which you will 
^Ireay have boiled according to re- 
cipe. (See recipe for Boiled shrimp.) 
Let the mixture boil again for five 
minutes, and add one cup and a half 
of rice, or half a pound, which has 
been well washed. Mix all well, and 
let boil for a half or three- quarters 
of an hour longer, stirring every once 
in a while, so as to mix all together. 
Serve hot. 

A French Plloii, 
Pilou Frangais. 
2 Chickens. % Cup of Rice. 

2 Tablespoonfnls of Butter. 
The Tolks of 2 Eggs. Bread Crumbs. 
Boil the fowls according to recipe. 
(See recipe Boiled (ihicken.) When 
done, take out about a pint of the 
liquor in which it was boiled, and 
put the rice, which you will have 
washed well, into the remaining boil- 
ing broth. Let it cook well for twen- 
ty minutes, and then add two table- 
spoonfuls of butter to the rice. But- 
ter the bottom of a dish, and put 



W8 



upon it one-half of the rice, spread- 
ing out nicely. Lay upon it the chick- 
ens, which have been disjointed and 
buttered. Add the remaining chick- 
en broth, pouring over the chicken. 
Then cover the fowls with the other 
half of the rice. Make the top per- 
fectly smooth. Spread over it the 
yolks of two eggs, which have been 
well beaten. Sprinkle with bread 
crumbs, and dot with little bits of 
butter here and there. Set in the 
oven, let it brown, and serve hot. 

Chicken With Rice. 

Poulet au Riz. 

1 Young Chicken. % Cup of Rice. 

This is a most delightful Creole 
way of preparing chicken and rice. 
It is highly recommended. Prepare 
and cook the chicTcen as in Poulet au 
Ri7, only do not cut up the chicken, 
but stew whole. When three-fourths 
done, add the rice, and in serving 
place the chicken in the center of the 
dish and heap the rice around. Toung 
chickens are best for this dish. An 
old chicken may be cut up and cooked 
till tender, as in Poulet au Riz, (See 
recipe Poulet au Riz, under chapter 
on Meat Soups.) 

Filaffl of Chicken. 

Pilaff de Volaille. 

1 Chicken About Four Pounds. 

a Cup of Rice. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and P6pper to Taste. 

Clean and cut the chicken as you 
would for a frioassfi. Put in a stew- 
pan and cover well with water. Add 
salt and pepper again to taste, hav- 
ing, of course, previously rubbed the 
fowl with salt and pepper. Let the 
chicken simmer gently for about an 
hour. Then take a half cup of rice 
and wash it thoroughly. Add it to 
the chicken. Salt again to taste. 
Cover and let all simmer for about 
twenty minutes longer. Then make 
a Tomato Sauce (see recipe). Dish 
the chicken and rice together, setting 
the chicken in the center of the dish 
and the rice around for a border, 
serve hot. This dish can be nicely 
made from the remains of cold chick- 
en or mutton. 

HoTT to Make a Rice Border. 

Bordure de Riz. 

1 Cup of Rice. 1 Quart of Boiling Water. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt to Taste. 

Boil the rice according to recipe 
given above, using one cup to one 
quart of boiling water. Boil rapidly 
for fifteen minutes. Pour off any wa- 
ter that remains on top. Set in the 
oven to dry for about ten minutes, 
then drain. Season with salt and 
pepper, and press into a well-but- 
tered border mold. Put It in the 



oven and let it bake ten minutes. 
Take out. Place a dish on the mold. 
Turn it upside down, and remove the 
mold. The hollow space in the oen- 
ten can be filled with a White or 
Brown Fricassfie of Chicken or Curry 
of Crawfish. 

Curry of Crawfish. 

ificrevisses au Kari. 
1 Cup of Rice. 3 Dozen CrawSsh. 

2 Ounces of Butter. 1 Oloye of Garlic. 
2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Farsler. 

1 Bay Leaf. Juice of Half a Lemon. 
1 Tablespoonful of Curry Powder. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Quart of Water. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne. 
Boil the crawfish according to the 
recipe given. (See Boiled Crawfish.) 
Clean and pick the crawfish the same 
as for a fricassfee. Put two ounces 
of butter in the frying pan. Cut one 
onion in slices, add it to the but- 
ter, letting it brown nicely. Then 
add the well-seasoned crawfish, and 
fry them to a golden brown. Add 
one clove of garlic, finely minced, and 
minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf. 
Let this brown. After five minutes, 
add a quart of boiling water. Stir 
well. Season to taste with salt, pep- 
per and a dash of Cayenne. Simmer 
gently until the crawfish are very 
tender. When done, add the juice of 
half a lemon, and mix one even ta- 
blespoonful of Curry Powder and one 
of flour with a little water. Bring it 
to a smooth paste by rubbing well, 
and add it to the crawfish. Stir con- 
stantly, and let it boil five minutes 
longer; Serve with a border of boiled 
rice heaped around it. Curry of 
Chicken is made in the same man- 
ner, by adding the Curry Powder. 

Boiled Rice, Italian Style. 

Riz Bouilli 3. I'ltalietine. 

1 Cup of Rice. A Slice of Breakfast Bacon. 

1 Tablespoonful of Grated Parmesan. 
1 Finch Saffron. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Wash one cup of rice. Take boil- 
ing water, using about a quart. Add 
a slice of bacon and a tablespoonful 
of grated Parmesan cheese, and a 
pinch of saffron. Let it boil well for 
five minutes. Then add the rice grad- 
ually, continuing to cook according 
to the rtecipe for boiled rice. When 
done, remove the bacon, dot the top 
with bits of butter, set in the stove 
to dry for ten minutes, and serve 
hot. 

CAIiAS. 
"Belle Cala!. Tout Chand!" 

Under this cry was sold by the 
ancient Creole negro women in the 
French Quarter of New Orleans a . 
delicious rice cake, which was eaten 
Vith the morning cup of Caf§ au 
Lait. The Cala woman was a daily 
figure in the streets till within the 



169 



last two or three years. She went 
her rounds In quaint bandana tignon, 
guinea blue dress, and white apron, 
and carried on her head a covered 
bowl, in which were the dainty and 
hot Galas. Her cry, "Belle Gala! 
Tout Ghaud!" would penetrate the 
morning air, and the olden Greole 
cooks would rush to the doors to 
get the first fresh, hot Galas to carry 
to their masters and mistresses with 
the early morning cup of coffee. The 
Gala women have almost all passed 
away, for, as remarked at the begin- 
ning of this book, there is a "new 
colored woman" in New Orleans, as 
elsewhere in the south, and she dis- 
dains all the pretty olden industries 
and occupations which were a con- 
stant and genteel source of revenue 
to the old "negro mothers and grand- 
mothers. Only two or three of the 
ancient Gala women remain. The 
cries of "Belle Gala! Tout Ghaud!" 
are now few and far between. Once 
In a while, like some ghostly voice 
of the.past, one starts up in bed of an 
early morning as the weak old voice 
faintly penetrates your chamber. In 
a second more it is lost in the dis- 
tance, and you turn over with a sigh 
for the good old times and the quaint 
customs of old Greole days, which 
gave such a beautiful and unique 
tinge to the life of the ancient quar- 
ter. 

But the custom of making Galas 
still remains. In many an ancient 
home the good housewife tells her 
daughters just how "Tante Zizi" made 
the Galas in her day, and so are pre- 
served these ancient traditional re- 

From one of the last of the olden 
Gala \7omen, one who has walked the 
streets of the French quarter for 
fifty years and more, the Picayune 
has gotten the following established 
Creole recipe: 

% Cnp of Rice. 3 Cups Water (boiling). 

3 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar. 

% Cake of Compressed Yeast. 

% Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. 

Powdered "White Sugar. Boiling Lard. 

Put three cups of water in a 
saucepan and let it boil hard. Wash 
half a cup of rice thoroughly, and 
drain and put in the boiling water. 
Let it boil till very soft and mushy. 
Take it out and set it to cool. When 
cold, mash well and mix with the 
yeast, which you will have dis- 
solved In a half cup of hot wa- 
ter. Set the rice to rise over- 
night. In the morning beat 
three eggs thoroughly, and add 
to the rice, mixing and beating well. 
Add a half cup of sugar and three 
tablespoonfuls of flour, to make the 
rice adhere. Mix well and beat thor- 
oughly, bringing it to a thick bat- 
ter. Set to rise for fifteen minutes 
longer. Then add about a half tea- 



spoonful of grated nutmeg, and mix 
well. Have ready a' frying pan, in 
which there is sufficient quantity of 
lard boiling for the rice cakes to 
swim in it. Test by dropping in a 
sma,ll piece of bread. If it bepomes 
a golden brown, the lard is ready, 
but if it burns or browns instantly 
it is too hot. The golden brown col- 
oi; is the true test. Take a large 
deep spoon, and drop a spoonful at a 
time of the preparation into the boil- 
ing lard, remembering always that 
the cake must not touch the bottom 
of the pan. Let fry to a nice brown. 
The old Gala women used to take the 
Galas piping hot, wrap them in a 
clean towel, basket or bowl, and rush 
through the streets with the welcome 
cry, "Belle Gala Tout Ghaud!" ring- 
ing on the morning air. But in fam- 
ilies the cook simply takes the Galas 
out of the frying pan and drains off 
the lard by laying in a colander or 
On heated pieces of brown paper. 
They are then placed in a hot dish, 
feind sprinkled over with powdered 
white sugar, and eaten hot with Gaffe 
au Lait. 

The above quantity will make six 
cakes., Increase in proportion. 

Galas may also be made of rice 
flour. In olden days the Gala wom- 
en used to pound the rice themselves 
in a mortar till they reduced it to a 
fine powder or flour. Then it was 
mixed and set to rise overnight. If 
the rice flour is used, one tablespoon- 
ful of wheat flour is sufficient to 
iDlnd. 

Oftsn in large Greole families, 
where rice is left over from the day 
before, the quantity is increased by 
adding: a cup of well-sifted self- 
raising flour. But these cakes, though 
very nice and palatable, are not the 
true "Galas," which are made en- 
tirely of rice, with only a little flour 
to bind, as directed above. 

Rice Waffles. 

Galettes de Riz. 

1% Cups of Softly Boiled Bice. 

2 Ounces of Butter. 1 Pint of Scalded Milk. 

3 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder. 

% Teaspoonful of Salt. 

1 Tablespoonful of Wheat Flour. | 

The rice must be cold and well 
mashed. Melt the two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter into the milk, which 
has been allowed to cool. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs and the whites se- 
perately, making the latter come to 
a stiff froth. Mix the rice and milk. 
Beat thoroughly, and then add a half 
teaspoonful of salt and one of baking 
powder, and the flour. Put the yolks 
into the batter, flrst blending well, 
and lastly add the whites, and beat 
well again. The waffie iron should 
be very hot, and well greased in 
every part. Always have a little 
brush with which to grease the waffla 



170 



Irons. Pour the batter into a pitch- 
er, so that you may more easily fill 
the irons. Open the irons, pour the 
batter from the pitcher and flU the 
iron quickly. Then close quickly and 
set on the fire. As soon as the edges 
are set, turn the iron and bake on 
the other side. Two minutes should 
be all the time required to bake a 
waffle nicely. The waffle must be 
baked evenly. Always select the 
simple waffle baker with four com- 
partments in preference to the more 
elaborate designs. Better results 
will be achieved. When the waffles 
are baked, remove them carefully, 
place on a hot dish, piling them in 
double ro"ws, and butter them gene- 
rously. Rice waffles are generally 
served with ground cinnamon and 
sugar mixed and sprinkled over. 
But this is a matter of taste. They 
are very delicious when served with 
butter and Louisiana Syrup or Mo- 
lasses. 



Rice Griddle Cakes. 

Gateaux de Riz. 

1 Pint of Milli. 1V5 Cups of Cold Boiled Rice. 

1^ Cupa of Flour. 2 Eggs. 

2 Heaping Teaspoonfuls of Baking PoTvder. 

1 Large Teaspoonful of Salt. 

Scald the milk and set it to cool. 
Press the rice through a sieve, and 
then add the well-beaten yolks of 
two eggs, then the salt, yeast pow- 
der and flour, blended, and beat well. 
Then add the milk, blending~thor- 
oughly, and finally the whites of the 
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix 
thoroughly and bake on a hot grid- 
dle. 



Rice Bread. 

Pain de Riz, 

1 Cup of Cold Boiled Rice. 

2 Cups of White Indian Meal. 3 Eggs. 

1 Tablpspoonful of Melted Butter. 

2 Heaping Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 

IM Pints Milk. 1 Teaspoonful Salt. 

Beat the yolks and whites of the 
eggs together until very light, and 
then pour in the milk, mixing grad- 
ually. Add the well-prepared meal, 
into which you will have mixed the 
salt and baking powder. Beat well. 
Then add the melted butter and the 
rice, which you will have pressed 
through a sieve. Mix all thoroughly 
and beat till very light. Then grease 
the bottom of a shallow pan and 
turn the mixture in and bake half 
an hour in a hot oven. Serve hot, 
buttering the slices freely. This is 
a delicious breakfast bread, and, as 
in any of the above recipes, cold 
rice left over may be utilized in its 
making. 



Rice Croquettes With Parsley, 

Croquettes de Riz au Persil. 

1 Cup of Rice. 1 Quart of Milt. 

1 TaBlespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
The Yolks of 4 Eggs. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Wash the rice well, and put it on 
to boil in a farina boiler with the 
milk, or use cold boiled rice, and set 
it to boil with the milk, after press- 
ing through a sieve. If the rice has 
not been cooked, let it boil about an 
hour. If it has already been cooked, 
twenty minutes will suffice. When 
very thick take from the fire and 
beat until very smooth, mashing all 
the grains. Then add the well-beaten 
yolks of the eggs, and cook for about 
eight or ten minutes longer. Add the 
parsley and seasoning, using the 
white pepper. Take from the Are 
and mix well, and turn out on a plate, 
and let it cool. When cool, form it 
into pretty cylinders of about three 
inches in length and one and a half 
in thickness. Roll these in a beaten 
egg, to bind, and then in bread 
crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Drain , 
and serve with any daube, or with 
any meat cooked with gravy. 

Rice Croanettes With Fruits. 

Croquettes de Riz aux Fruits, i 

% Cup of Rice. 1 Pint of Milk. 

2 Large Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 
Vi Cup of Currants. Vi Cup of Raisins. 

% Cup of Citron. 
% Teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence. 

The Yolks of Two Eggs. 
Put the milk Into a farina boiler, 
and add the dice which you will have 
washed well. Boil until very thick. 
Seed the raisins and prepare the 
other fruits. Beat the eggs well 
and add them to the rice, and then 
stir in the sugar. Beat until very 
smooth. Then take from the fire, 
and add the essence of vanilla, the 
raisins and currants, and the citron. 
Turn out all into a dish to cool. 
Then form Into pretty pyramids, and 
dip first in a well-beaten egg, and 
then in bread crumbs. Fry in boil- 
ing lard. Drain well. When about 
to serve, put a small piece of Cur- 
rant Jelly on the top of each cro- 
quette. Then dust the whole with 
powdered sugar, and serve with 
Sauce a. la Vanille. (Vanilla Sauce, 
see recipe.) 

Rice Flonr Croquettes. 
Croquettes de Farine de Eiz. 

1 Quart Milk. % Split Vanilla Stick. 
6 Ounces of Ground Rice. H Pound of Sugar. 

2 Ounces Butter. Yolks of 8 Eggs. 

1 Ounce of Pineapple. 2 Ounces of ApricotB. 

3 Ounces of Cherries. 

1 Ounce of Orange Peel. A Cream Sauce. 

Boil a quart of milk, and add to It 

while boiling the split vanilla stick. 



171 



Take out the vanilla after you 
have cut all the fruit and orange 
peel into small dice, throwing away 
the seeds. Drop the ground rice like 
a shower of rain into the boiling 
milk, stirring it continuously with a 
whisk of the hand. When it begins 
to soften, set it back, and let it cook 
for fifteen minutes longer. Then mix 
in the cut fruits, and add the butter, 
which you will have melted. Add 
the eggs, which have been beaten 
very light in the sugar. Mix thor- 
oughly, and add the orange peel; 
cut into quarter dice.. When the mix- 
ture is very light, ~B«t it to cool, 
by spreading it out on a baking 
sheet, covered with white paper. 
When cold, divide it into small balls, 
roll these in powdered Macaroons 
(see recipe Macaroons), dip in beaten 
egg, and then roll in white bread 
crumbs. Fry in boiling lard. Drain 
in a heated colander or on a piece 
of brown pa|)er. Then dress the cro- 
quettes nicely on a dish, sprinkle 
with vanilla sugar, and serve each 
separately, with a Cream Sauce. (See 
recipe.) This is a delicious dish. 

Rice Cufstard. 

Riz au Lait. 

1 Cup Kiee. 3-4 Cup Sugar. % Grated Nutmeg. 

1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. 

The Peel of a Quarter of an Orange, Cut In 

Dice. 

Boil the rice very soft, and then 
add the milk, and let it come to a 
good boil. Add the orange peel, cut 
in quarter dice. Beat the eggs and 
sugar well together till very light, 
and add to the boiling custard. Cook 
for one minute longer. Then take 
from the fire, and add the vanilla 
and one-quarter of the grated nut- 
meg. Place all in a dish to cool. 
Sprinkle the top with grated nut- 
meg, and serve cold. This is a fa- 
mous Creole dish. 

If you wish to have a baked cus- 
tard, Place the custard in a pan or in 
cups. Set in the oven to brown, and 
serve hot, with a Cream Sauce. The 
above amount will fill about eight 
cups. 

Rice Dumplings. 
Echaud^s de Riz. 

It was the old Creole negro cooks 
who first evolved that famous Creole 
dessert, Rice Dumplings. They are 
made as follows: * 

% Cup of riour. 3 Cups of Ground Rice. 
8 Apples, Tart and Not Overripe. 

2 Quarts of Milk. Sugar and Cinnamon. 

Vi of the Peel of an Orange. 
% of a Grated Nutmeg. 

Pare the apples and take out the 
cores, leaving the apples whole. 
Take the ground cinnamon and sugar, 
and mix well, and fill the cores with 
this mixture. In the meantime boil 



the rice in milk till it comes to the 
consistency of flour, having added the 
grated peel of an orange and a half 
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and a 
half cup of fiour. Take off the fire, 
and lot it cool. Then cover each ap- 
ple all over with a very thick coat- 
ing of the rice, and tie each dump- 
ling in a cloth very tightly, and put 
them in a pot of cold water. Bring 
the water to a quick boil, and boil 
the apples for three-quarters of an 
hour. When done, untie the cloth 
and place the dumplings carefully on 
a large dish. Sprinkle each with a 
little grated nutmeg, put on top of 
each a dot of butter, set in the oven 
for five or ten minutes to brown, and 
serve with a Hard or Cream Sauce. 
They are most delicious with a Hard 
Sauce. They may be served without 
setting in the oven, immediately af- 
ter they have been taken from the 
water, or they may be served cold. 
Again, in large families, the apples 
may be cut in halves or quarters, 
and boiled in the same manner, cov- 
ering with the coating of rice, as in 
the following recipe: 

Apples and Rice. 

Riz a. la Conde. 

Take three large, fine apples, and 
cut in halves. Pare and core. Then 
bake in the oven until quite done and 
juicy. Make a Rice Pudding (see re- 
cipe), using only one cup of rice and 
other ingredients in proportion. When 
the apples are cold, set In a dish, 
placing each apple over a small bed 
of Rice Pudding. Place the same 
quantity on top of the apple, so that 
it will be inclosed between the rice 
as in a ball. Serve in saucers, and 
pour over each riced apple two ta- 
blespoonfuls of Brandy or Cream 
Sauce. (See Sauces for Puddings, 
etc.) 

Rice Meringue. 
Meringue de Riz. 

1 Cup Rice. 6 Creole Eggs. 2 Cups Sugar. 

1 Pint Milk. 2 Tablespoontuls Butter. 
The Grated Rind of a Lemon. 

Wash the rice thoroughly, and boil 
it in a quart of boiling water. Wheh 
very soft, drain the rice of all wa- 
ter by pressing through a colander, 
and add it to the milk. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs and the sugar to- 
gether till very light .and add the 
butter. Then add the juice and the 
grated rind of a lemon, and mix 
thoroughly. Place the whole mixture 
into a baking dish, and bake for half 
an hour in _a quick oven. Beat the 
whites to a stiff froth, and add grad- 
ually six tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar (white), beating them well all 
the time. Continue beating till the 
whites are stiff enough to stand 
alone. Pour this over the top of the 
rice, and set it back In the oven a 



172 



few minutes to brown. It may be 
served either hot or cold. 

Rice Souffle, 

SoufflS de Riz. 

Vi Pound of Rice Flour. H Pound of Sugar. 

^ Pint Cream. 6 Fresh Creole Eggs. 
1 Teaspoonful Vanilla. Vi Teaspoontul Salt. 

The Grated Peel of Half an Orange. 
Boil the rice well, according to re- 
cipe, and when very soft add the half 
pint of cream, and let it come to a 
boil. Beat the butter and sugar and 
the yolks of the eggs together until 
very light. Then add the rice, which 
has been boiled in the milk. Set on 
the fire, and add the grated peel of 
a half orange, and stir continually 
till it thickens. Add the salt. Stir 
well. Then take from the Are, and 
add the vanilla. Have the whites of 
the eggs beaten to a stiff thick froth. 
Pour this over the rice. Set in the 
oven a few minutes to brown, and 
serve immediately while very hot, or 
It will fall. 

Snowballs, 
Riz a la Ngige. 
1 Cup Kice. 1 Pint Milk. Vi Cup White Sugar. 
The Whites of Six Eggs. 
A Cream Sauce. 
Boil the rice with the milk, and 
add the whites of three eggs, well 
beaten with the sugar. Stir well, 
and flavor with the Juice of one lem- 
on. The mixture should be white as 
snow. Take from the fire as it thick- 
ens well, and set in a dish to cool. 
Form the rice into small balls of 
about two and a half Inches square 
(little "boulettes." as the Creoles 
call them.) Have the rest of the 
eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with 
two tablespoonfuls of powdered su- 
gar. Cover the tops of the balls 
with the mixture and place in the 
stove to heat. Let the balls re- 
maip about four minutes, without 
browning. Take out, and serve with 
a Cream Sauce (see recipe Sauces for 
Puddings,) or just as they are. 

Rice Crenm Pudding, 

Pouding de Riz a. la CrSme. 

1 Cup of Boiled Rice. 3-4 Cup of Sugar. 

1 OuiiCe of Pineapple. 2 Ounces of Raisins. 

2 Ounces of Currants. 

1 Ounce of Grated Orange Peel. 

1 Quart of Milk. The Yolks of 6 Eggs.' 

% of a Grated Nutmeg. 

Boil the rice well, and then drain 
through a colander and set to boil 
with the milk. When it has cooked 
for twenty rrtinutes, add all the fruits, 
being careful to have the pineap- 
ple cut into dice, and the raisins 
seeded, and the currants picked, 
washed and dried. Then add the or- 
ange peel and grated nutmeg, and 
finally the eggs, which have been 
well beaten in the sugar till very 



light. Let all simmer for just one 
minute. Then take off the stove, 
place in a baking pan, and set to 
brown nicely in a auick oven for 
about twenty-five minutes. When 
well browned, have ready a me- 
ringue, which you will have made by 
beating the whites of two eggs to 
a froth (reserve the whites of two 
eggs), and add to this two table- 
spoonfuls of powdered white sugar. 
Spread all this over the pudding. 
Let it brown slightly in a hot oven, 
or the meringue will fall. Serve 
either hot or very cold. The pudding 
may be made without the addition of 
the pineapple. 

Frozen Rice Custard, 

CrSme de Riz GlacSe. 

1 Cupful of Rice. 1 Quart of Milk. 
A Pint of Cream. 1 Cup of Sugar. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 6 Oranges. 

Prepare exactly as above, as far 
as boiled, but omit the fruits and use 
only the grated rind of an orange 
in making the pudding. When cold, 
add the juice of an orange and the 
cream, beaten or whipped to a froth. 
Four tablespoonfuls of wine or lemon 
juice may be substituted for the or- 
ange juice, according to taste. Then 
freeze, the same as you would toe 
cream, and serve with an Orange 
Sauce, prepared as follows: 

Boil together for ten minutes one 
cupful of water, one-half cup of su- 
gar, the grated yellow rind or zest 
of two oranges. Add to this the 
strained juice of four oranges. Cool 
and set to freeze. Boil three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar with three of wa- 
ter for two minutes. Beat this into 
the white of one egg, which has al- 
ready been brought to a stiff froth. 
Stir this meringue into the frozen 
mixture, and the sauce will be ready 
to serve with the pudding or custard. 

Rice With Compote of Oranges. 

Riz k la Compote d'Oranges. 

3-4 Cup Rice. 1^ Pints Milk. 1 Quart Cream, 

1% Cups Sugar. 
Yolks of 8 Eggs. 1 Tatlespoonful of Vanilla, 

The Grated Peel of an Orange. 
12 Sweet Louisiana Oranges. 1 Pound Sugar. 
1 Gill Water. ^ of a Grated Nutmeg. 
Wash the rice clean, and boll ac- 
cording to recipe in about a pint and 
a quarter of water. In half an hour 
take off and drain of all water, and 
press through a sieve. Then add it 
to the milk, and let it boll slowly 
a half hour longer without burning. 
Whip the cream to a stiff froth, and 
add the drain to the rice or milk, 
and set the whipped cream to cool 
until it is needed. Beat the yolks 
of the eggs and the sugar until they 
are very light. Add them to the 
boiling rice, stirring constantly and 
well, and let It cook for two min- 



173 



utes, adding in the meantime the 
grated peel of the orange. Take the 
mixture from the fire. Then add the 
tablespoonful of vanilla, and the 
grated nutmeg. Mix well and set out 
to cool. Remove the- dasher from 
the ice cream freezer, and when the 
mixture has become very cool, turn 
It into the freezer and let it set 
packed in rock salt and ice for three 
hours. 

In the meantime take a dozen sweet 
Louisiana ora.nges, and peel and out 
them crosswise into halves. Take 
out the cores with the share point 
of a' penknife, and set them in a dish 
ready for use. Put a round of sugar 
to boil with one gill of water, and 
after ten minutes add the juice of 
half a lemon. Put a few pieces at a 
time of the oranges into this boiling 
liquid, and lay them out side by side 
in a flat dish. Pour over them the 
syrup that remains from the boiling, 
and set the dish in the ice box to 
cool. "When ready to serve, wipe 
thoroughly the outside of the can that 
contains the pudding, and all around 
the edges, so as to remove any 
traces of salt. ■ Wet a towel in boil- 
ing water and stand the can upon 
it. Open the can. Put a round dish 
on top, and then turn quickly upside 
down, and remove the can. If the 
pudding adheres, repeat the applca- 
tions of the hot towel at the bottom 
and around. Place the oranges on 
top and all around the pudding, 
and pour over them th« syrup, whion 
has become cool, but not frozen. Serve 
immediately. This is one of the most 
delicious, as well as one of the most 
typical of our Louisiana methods of 
serving rice as a, dessert. 

lieft-Over Rice, 

Enough has been said and written 
In these recipes to' give an idea of 
the possibilities of Louisiana rice 
under proper methods of culinary 
preparation. It enters into many difr 
ferent combinations in cooking, and 
among the poorer Creoles of large 
families it takes, in a great measure, 
the place of bread. A meal of boiled 
rice, with Grillades a, la Sauce, and 
Red Beans or White Beans, is very 
popular among the Creoles, especially 
those of limited means, all of these 
being good, nourishing, as well as 
economical, dishes, the rice not only 
saving the expenditure of money for 



bread, but making a most welcome 
and palatable substitute. The fam- 
ily that uses rice daily will note the 
economy that follows in the purchase 
of bread. 

Left-over rice may be utilized In 
almost any of the above dishes, but 
it is more generally used in the mak- 
ing of rice waffles or rice cakes for 
breakfast, Calas, etc. It is also fried 
or made- into rice fritters, as follows: 

I Fried Rice. 

Riz Frit. 

Take the left-over rice from the 
day before, and cut it into slices of 
proper thickness, and fry to a nice 
brown, turning it carefully, to avoid 
breaking the slices. This makes an 
excellent breakfast dish, with Gril- 
lades a, la Sauce. (See recipe.) 

Rice Fritters. 

Bei^nets de Riz. 

Take the left-over rice and mash 
very fine. If you have only a cup- 
ful, take three eggs, a half cup of 
flour, one teaspoonfil of yeast pow- 
der, and sugar to taste, and beat all 
into a light, thick batter. Cook by 
dropping a spoonful at a time into 
boiling, lard. This is a. sweet entre- 
met, as also an excellent breakfast 
dish. 

Parched Rice. 

Riz Grins. 

Rice may be parched in the same 
manner as popcorn. It is' a method 
cf cooking rice that came to New 
Orleans from the West Indies, and 
was brought into general use by the 
San Domingo refugees, who came to 
New Orleans in numbers after the 
great insurrection. When the culture 
of rice became general in the south- 
, western parishes of our State, these 
old settlers began to give rice-parch- 
ing parties, and they became very 
fashionable. The Creole children and 
the belles and beaux of eighty years 
ago enjoyed parching rice just as 
much as northern children, youths 
and maidens enjoy roasting chest- 
nuts or parching corn. Rice Is 
parched in the same manner as the 
Creoles parch popcorn. The parched 
grain of rice becomes a beautiful 
open ball, which is eaten with salt 
or sugar, and is very delicious. 



CHAPTER XX.V. 
CERBALS. 



Under the heading of Cereals are 
classed Wheat, Rye. Barley. Oats, 
Corn, Maize or Indian Corn. Buck- 
wheat and Rice. Rice being one of 
our great Louisiana staples, and the 
proper methods of preparing it so 
little known, has been separately 
treated in the preceding chapter. The! 
other Cereals are in general use in 
every section of our country, and will 
require less ampliflcation. 

WHEAT. 

Du Froment. 

On account of its universal con- 
sumption and great nutritive qual- 
ities, "Wheat is considered the prin- 
cipal cereal. In the form of bread. 
It has long been distinguished as the 
"Staff of Life." 

The structure of the grain, like 
that of other cereals, consists of a 
gritty, woody center covering, which 
is indigestible, and which is gotten 
rid of. after the grain has been 
ground, by "sifting." In the whole 
wheat grain is found a perfect food, 
for it contains all that is necessary to 
support life — starch, gluten, sugar, 
nitrogenous and carbonaceous mat- 
ter, Tvater, salts, potash, soda, lime, 
phosphoric acid, magnesia, etc. 

In what is called "whole meal," 
the bran and pollards derived from 
the outer covering are retained. 
From this wheat is made "Brown 
Bread," and though this kind of bread 
contains far more nitrogenous mat- 
ter than white bread, it is not in gen- 
eral use. on account of its indigesti- 
bility. It should never be eaten by 
persons of weak digestion. 

Prom wheat are derived not only 
flour in all its various degrees of 
refinement, but several delightful and 
nutritious breakfast cereals, such as 
"Cracked Wheat," which is generally 
and very wisely used among the 
Creoles as an article of food. "Far- 
ina," an excellent preparation, which 
is delicate and acceptable to the 
most fastidious stomach, and, being 
rich In nitrogenous matter, is not 
only a most excellent food for adults, 
but is considered far superior in nu- 
tritive value to arrowroot or corn- 
starch for children. Again, we have 
"Wheatena." and "Cerealine." both 
muscle and brain feeding prepara- 
tions of Wheat. 

Wheat contains a gluten, which is 
a gray, elastic, tough suBstance. This 
gluten is especially abundant In 
wheat grown In warm climates. From 



this gluten paste Macaroni and Ver- 
micelli are made. 

Criicked Wheat. 

Froment Crevfe. 

1 Cup of Cracked Wlieat. 

1 Quart of Water. 

1 leaspoonful of Salt. 

Under the name of "Cracked 
Wheat" there is sold in the markets 
whole wheat grains which are 
cooked by boiling in a double boiler 
until the entire envelope of the grain 
bursts open. It will reauire four 
hours of good boiling, therefore. It is 
best to soak the grain over night in 
a quart of cold water. In the morn- 
ing set the kettle containing the 
grain in another kettle of cold wa- 
ter, add the salt, and let It gradually 
heat and boil for at least an hour and 
a half. It should be thoroughly 
cooked. Serve with sugar and cream 
for breakfast. 

Wheatena may be cooked without 
soaking, as also Cerealine. If a sin- 
gle boiler is used, be very careful to 
stir often, to prevent burning. 

FARIXA. 

Fficule. 

% Cup of Farina. 
1 Quart of Water or Milk. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
Add the salt to the milk or water, 
and then sift in slowly sufficient Fa- 
rina to make a thick gruel. Set in a 
double boiler, and let it cook for 
about a half hour, stirring frequently 
while it boils. 

Farina Gniel. 

Gruau de F6cule. 

1 Cup of Boiling Water. 
1 Cup of Fresh Milk., 
1 Large tablespoonful of Farina. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. 
In preparing this splendid food for 
infants, take a cup of boiling water, 
one cup of milk, and a pinch of salt. 
Slightly salt the water. Set one 
boiler within another, the latter boil- 
er being filled with boiling water. 
Stir the Farina into the cup of 
boiling water, and let it boil, stirring 
constantly, till it thickens. Then 
add the milk, stirring It gradually, 
and let it boil about fifteen minutes 
longer. Sweeten, and when it i^ 
cool give to the child. Enough may 
be made to last all day. Warm, 
when It is needed, with a little boll- 



175 



RYE, 

Seigle. 

Bye Meal, once such a common ar- 
ticle of food in New Orleans, is still 
extensively used by the German pop- 
ulation, both in making Rye Bread 
and in making Rye Mush. As re- 
gards nutritive quality, Rye ranks 
slightly less than flour. 

Rye Musli. 

Bouillie de Seigle. 

3-4 Cup of Rj-e Meal. 
1 Quart of Boiling Water. 

Sift the meal into the boiling wa- 
ter, and stir constantly while doing 
so. Add the salt, and contimie stir- 
ring till the mixture begins to boil. 
Then cover and let it cook slowly for 
at least an hour and a quarter. Serve 
hot for breakfast, with sugar and 
cream. 

OATS. 
Avoir e. 

From Oats, which are used so ex- 
tensively as food for beasts, is pro- 
duced Oatmeal, which heads the list 
of flesh-producing and strengthening 
grains, being far richer than flour in 
nitrogen and fat, and therefore more 
nutritious. With oatmeal porridge 
for breakfast, oatmeal cakes for din- 
ner, milk, potatoes and a few vege- 
tables, the hard-working laborer or 
brain worker need require little else 
for sustenance from year's end to 
year's end. The coarsely ground 
Scotch oatmeal is the most nutritious, 
though we have many refined prepay 
rations, such as "Nudavene." "Rolled 
Oats," etc., whi3h are very palatable 
to delicate stomachs. With good 
milk, oatmeal makes a most nutri- 
tious breakfast or supper for chil- 
dren or adults. It Is in far more 
general use in New Orleans than in 
former years. A gruel of oatmeal 
is about the healthiest article of 
food that any mother, whether rich 
or poor, can give to her grooving 
babies. Oatmeal is a heat-producing 
food. It is used extensively in spring, 
autumn and winter 'n our climate; 
in summer we have our own splendid 
Creole substitutes. Hominy and Grits. 

OATMEAIi. 

Gruau d'Avoine. 
1 Cup of Oatmeal. 
1 Quart of Boiling Water. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
It is best to soak the oatmeal, when 
the coarse Scotch Oats are used, over 
night. Then cook for a half hour in 
the morning, boiling constantly, and 
salt to taste. If the oatmeal is not 
soaked, it will require at least an 
hour to cook. It burns very easily, 
and, therefore, it is always best to 
set in a double boiler. Serve with 
cream. 



The more delicate preparations of 
oatmeal, such as "Nudavene," "Rolled 
Oats," etc.. require only fifteen or 
twenty minutes to cook, and need no 
soaking. Always put the prepara- 
tions in boiling water. 

Steamed Oatmeal. 

Gruau d'Avoine a. la Vapeur. 
1 Teacupful of Oatmeal. 
1 Quait of Boiling Water. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
Add the oatmeal to the water, and 
then add the salt, and set the steam- 
ing vessel over a pot of cold water, 
and let it gradually heat, and then 
steam for an hour and a half. Keep 
closely covered. When done, serve 
with cream. - 

Oat Flaktia. 

Plocons d'Avoine. 
1 Teacupful of Oat Flakes. 
1 Quart of Boiling Water. 
■ ^ Teasponoful of Salt. 

This delicate preparation from oat- 
meal is prepared by putting the quart 
of water into a porcelain-lined sauce- 
pan, and letting it come to a boil. 
Add the salt, and when it is boiling- 
stir, in gradually the oat flakes. Keep 
stirring to prevent burning. Let the 
preparation boil for about fifteen or 
twenty minutes, and serve with su- 
gar and cream, or simply cream or 
milk. 

It might be emphasized here that 
ojjdinary coarse oatmeal that has 
not been soaked reauires from two 
to two and a half hours of steady 
cooking to render it palatable and 
digestible. Never be afraid of, cook- 
ing any cereal or preparations from 
cereals, except rice, too long, no mat- 
ter how the directions read. A halt 
hour or so longer cooking does not 
injure them, but, on the contrary, 
renders them easier of digestion. 

CORN. 

Du Mai's. 

Under this heading are included 
Corn proper and our own Indian 
Corn, or Maize. ,From these come 
such staple dishes as "Grits," "Big 
Kominy," "Little Hominy," "Lye 
Hominy," or "Samp." 

Corn contains far greater force- 
producing and fattening matter than 
Wheat. Scientists declare that corn- 
meal contains six times as mucli oil 
as wheat. Corn Bread is. therefore, 
an excellent winter diet, as also the 
delicate "Grits" and "Big and Small 
Hominy." "Samp," or "Lye Hom- 
iny," is used throughout the summer, 
as less heatening. Preparations of 
Corn are among the cheapest, if not 
the very cheapest articles of food and 
considering their high nutritive val- 
ue, are' especially recommended to' 
the families of the poor. But, wheth- 



er rich or poor, there are few Cre- 
ole families in New Orleans who sit 
to breakfast without a good dish of 
Grits or Hominy. 

GRITS. 
Du Gru. 
Under the heading of corn might 
properly be classed the white corn 
grits, without which no breakfast in 
Louisiana is considered complete. 
Grits are not only used for breakfast, 
but may appear on the table several 
times a day, the left-over grits from 
breakfast being utilized either In 
dainty cakes or entremets, or else 
warmed over and served with grav- 
ies. Grits is the ground dried corn. 
We have yellow grits, or grits from 
which the' outer yellow covering of 
the corn has not been removed, and 
white grits, the latter considered the 
daintier preparation. Prom these 
comes the "Small Hominy," or corn 
ground to sucerfineness. Grits are 
always boiled. Left-over may be 
fried or warmed up 3,gain, or beaten 
with eggs and milk and baked. This 
is a most delicious dish. 
. In ante bellum days, and up to 
about fifteen years ago, the "grits 
man" was as common a figure in the 
streets of the old French auarter as 
the "ring man," the "bottle man," 
or the "Gala woman." The "toot- 
toot," long drawn out of his great 
tin horn, nearly three feet in length, 
was as usual a cry as that of "Belle 
calas! Belle chaurice! Belle fromage!" 
for everything that was worth sell- 
ing was considered "belle," or "beau- 
tiful," in New Orleans. The "grits 
man" went his rounds in a covered 
wagonette, labeled "Grits," and when 
his great horn was heard the house- 
keepers rushed to the doors to make 
bargains in the dainty breakfast ce- 
real. But, like the "Gala woman," 
the "Grits man" is fast becoming a 
memory of other days. , 

Boiled Grits. 

Du Gru Bouilli. 
2 Cups of Grita. 
2 Quarts of Water. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Salt. 
"Wash the grits in fresh cold wa- 
ter, and throw oft the refuse. Wash 
again and drain. Into two quarts of 
cold water put the grits. Add the 
salt, and stir frequently while they 
are coming to the boiling point> 
Then set back on the stove and let 
them cook slowly for about an hour. 
It must be of the consistency of a 
very thick starch, or drier, if pre- 
ferred. For invalids it may be cooked 
like a cornmeal mush. Serve hot. 
with any meat, with gravy, or serve 
with milk, as oatmeal, as a prelimi- 
nary to breakfast, or, again, simply 
eat with butter. In any manner In 
which they are served they are al- 
ways relishable and tialatahlB Tf 



half milk, instead of water, is added 
in cooking, the dish is all the more 
delicious. 

Baked Grits, 

Du Gru aux Oeufs. 

1 Cup of Grits. 

% Quart of Water. % Quart of Milk. 

2 Eggs. Salt to Taste. 

Boil the grits in the water and 
milk, mixed. Season, and when quite 
dry, take off the stove and let it 
cool a little. Beat the whites and 
yolks separately, and when the- grits 
is cool beat in the yolks, and blend 
thoroughly. Then add the whites, 
and beat till very light. Add a gill 
of cream. Set in an oven and bake to 
a beautiful browin. and serve hot. 
This is an ideal Creole breakfast 
dish. Cold grits may be thus utilized. 

HOMINY. 

SaccamitS. 

Hominy is called by the Creoles the 
older sister of Grits. It was the In- 
dians around Louisiana who first 
taught the use of hominy. They used 
to take all the dried Indian corn and 
thresh it till all the yellow, hardened 
outer germ or hull came off, the grain 
being left white. Then they would 
bring the • large whitened grains into 
the city to sell. Hominy became a 
great industry, and was extensively 
manufactured and sold all over the 
south. It was the chief food of the 
couthern negroes. But it was also 
a standing dish on the most elegant 
tables. The little Creole children 
were reared on "La Saocamit6." The 
hominy was boiled In water in the 
same proportions as grits, but, of 
course, allowed to cook much longer, 
till the great white grains of corn 
were very soft, and yielded easily to 
pressure. It is still cooked in the 
same way, and eaten with milk or 
with sugar, the latter being a favor- 
ite dish with the Creole children. 
It is also eaten with meat and gra- 
vy, or simply with salt and butter. 
Left-over hominy is utilized in mak- 
ing hominy griddle cakes. So gene- 
ral is the use of hominy in Creole 
homes, th.at the ancient dames have 
a saying when any one is dissatisfied 
with home, and longs to pass beyond 
its environments, "Tempi, pour toi! 
La SaocamitS te ramfinera!" "Never 
mind! Hominy will bring you back!" 

We have also "Lye Hominy," or 
Hominy soaked in Lye till the coarse 
outer germ comes off. This is the 
great summer breakfast dish of the 
city and parishes. ' The hominy is 
made in the parishes, and shipped to 
New Orleans. It is also pounded and 
used for making "Lye Hominy 
Bread." 

In our day, oatmeal, cracked wheat, 



177 



en favorites, grits and hominy, In 
popular favor In New Orleans. These, 
as shown in this' chapter, are also 
cooked like grits. In the proportion 
of one cup of the grain to one quart 
of water. Simple breakfast hominy 
is the hulled grain broken up into a 
number of small sieces. 

Boiled Hominy. 

La Saccamitg Bouillie. 
1 Pint of Hominy. 
2 Quarts of Water. Salt to Taste. 
Hominy should always be soaked 
Over night in cold water. Wash the 
hominy, and put Into two quarts of 
water to soak. In the morning turn 
both hominy and water into a sauce- 
pan, and let it boil slowly for three 
or four hours. Serve with sugar and 
Cream. It may also be eaten with 
butter and salt and pepper. 

Hominy Croqnett^s. 

La SaccamitS en Croquettes. 
These are made from the left-over 
hominy. They are prepared In ex- 
actly the same manner as rice cro- 
quettes. (See recipe.) Grits may be 
made into croquettes In the same 
manner. 

Fried Grits or Hominy. 

Gru ou SaccamitS Frite. 

To fry grits or hominy, after the 
grain is boiled, let it cool. Then 
season with salt and pepper, and 
spread on a biscuit board. "When 
perfectly cold, cut into slices and 
dust each slice with a little flour. 
Brush again with a beaten egg, and 
fry In lard till a light brown. 

liye HOmlny or Samp. 

SaccamitS k la Lessive. 

This is an old-fashioned Creole way 
of preparing hulled corn. It is and 
has been much in vogue for many 
generations throughout rural Lou- 
isiana. The corn is allow^ed to get 
very ripe, put to dry, and then hulled. 
It is then allowed to lie for many 
days, spread out upon a cloth, till 
thoroughly dried. An Immense pot 
is then filled with water, and a bag 
containing at least a quart or more 
of hard wood ashes is put into it. 
A good peck of the old, ripe, dry, 
hulled corn Is thrown In. and it Is 
allowed to soak for at least twenty- 
four hours. The corn is then put to 
boil in these ashes till the husks or 
outer germs come off easily. Then 
the corn is thrown Into the cold wa- 
ter and divested of the hulls by thor- 
ough rubbing with the hands. It is 
then washed in four or five waters, 
till every taste of potash disappears. 

Another way the Creoles of rural 
liOuisiana have of preparing Lye 
Hominy is to dilute the strong lye 



In water, and then boil the corn In 
this till the hull comes off. After 
thoroughly washing, the corn pre- 
pared after either way is sent In 
large quantities to New Orleans, aa 
well as used for home consumption. 
In cooking Lye Hominy, it is either 
boiled in water until the kernels are 
soft, as in other recipes for Hominy, 
making a delicious dish when served 
with milk, or cream, or It Is ground 
or pounded into a flour, from which 
is made that famous Louisiana break- 
fast offering, "Lye Hominy Bread." 
(See recipe under chapter on Breads.) 
This flour also finds a ready sale 
among the Creoles during summer. 

In preparing Hominy after the fa- 
shion, the Creoles again demonstrate 
how perfectly they understand con- 
ditions of life in Louisiana and the 
peculiarities of our climate. Lye is 
an alkali, and when the corn is 
soaked in it, much of the oil, which 
gives it such heat-producing power, 
is lost. The Hominy thus prepared 
and distinguished as "Samp," be- 
comes a splendid summer food, while 
"Big Hominy" and 'Little Hominy" 
and "Grits" supply heat for winter. 
Any family may make Its own Lye 
Hominy a.t home in small quantities 
by following the above recipes, first 
making the lye by boiling two hand- 
fuls of clean, hardwood ashes in cold 
w^ater for twenty-five minutes, and 
w^hen the lye is strong and slippery 
add the corn. As the hulls begin to 
start, skim out the corn and throw 
it into a pan of cold water and pro- 
ceed as above. 

Cornmeal Mush. 

Bouillie de Farine de Mais. 

1% Cups of Cornmeal. 

2 Quarts of Boiling Water. 

VA Teaspoontuls of Salt. 

Set the water to boil in a porcelain- 
lined or agate stewpot; add the salt, 
and when the light scum comes on 
top, skim it off. Then add the fresh, 
sweet white cornmeal. putting a 
handful at a time Into the water, 
and stirring with a spoon, or a pud- 
ding stick, round and round, as the 
meal falls lightly from the hand. 
When one handful is exhausted, refill 
It, and continue stirring and letting 
the meal fall by degrees, until the 
pudding stick will stand in It. This 
Is the test. Continue stirring, and 
when sufficiently cooked, which will 
be in a half hour, as the bubbles be- 
gin to puff up, turn into a bowl, bring 
to the table (either hot or cold) and 
eat with milk, butter, sugar, syrup 
or with meat and gravy. 

In preparing this as a gruel for 
Infants, take one-half cup of corn- 
meal, a quart of water, and let It 
boil for at least one hour, stirring 
often. When done, soften with boiled 



178 



new milk, sweeten to taste and feed 
the infant with a spoon. 

Graham Meal Mush is prepared in 
the same manner as either of the 
above recipes. 

Milk Porriagc. 

Bouillie de Lait. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Indian Meal. 
1 Spoon of White Flour. 
3 Cups of Milk. 
114 Cups of Boiling Water. 
A Pincli of Salt. 
Bring the flour to a paste with a 
little cold water, and also scald the 
meal with a little hot water. Have 
the water boiling in the proportion 
given above; add the meal, and then 
add the flour, stirring constantly. 
Then let it boil for about twenty min- 
utes, and add the pinch of salt and 
the milk, stirring almost constantly; 
then let all cook for ten minutes 
more, stirring often. Serve while 
hot, with sugar and milk. This Is 
excellent for little children and in- 
valids. 

BARLEY. 

Orge. 

Barley is extensively used by the 
Creoles, especially in summer, for 
making soups. A good barley soup 
is considered not only a most nutri- 
tious dish, but a very cooling one. 



and especially suited to a summer 
diet. A half cupful is ' thrown into 
the soup. (See recipe for Barley 
Soup.) Barley water is also exten- 
sively used to cool the system, and 
also for delicate Infants, with whom 
very often even sterilized milk does 
not agree, and it is found absolutely 
necessary to substitute some other 
article of diet. The Creole mothers 
first soak two tablespoonfuls of bar- 
ley in a little cold water for about 
an hour, and then, without draining 
pour this into the boiling water, 
which has been very slightly salted. 
This v?ater is stirred very frequently 
and allowed to simmer for at least an 
hour. It is then strained and sweet- 
ened before it is used. Barley thus 
prepared is used extensively for in- 
valids. Barley must always be 
picked over and washed thoroughly 
in severo.l waters before using and 
soaked in a little cold water. 

BTJCKWHB3AT. 

Froment de Sarrasln. 

Buckwheat is not by any means 
a nutritive food, being far inferior 
to wheat and corn. It Is never eaten 
alone, but in combination with flour, 
is used in making those delightful 
breakfast accompaniments, "Buck- 
wheat Cakes." (See recipe, under 
Chapter on Breads.) 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



MACAROjVI. 



Macaroni. 



Macaroni is a general article of 
food in New Orleans among the rich 
and the poor. It is very cheap, and is 
a most excellent dish. We have In 
New Orleans large Macaroni fac- 
tories, where not only Macaroni is 
made by the Italians themselves, but 
the twin sisters of Macaroni. Spa- 
ghetti and Vermicelli, are also man- 
ufactured fresh daily. While there 
Is no city in the United States in 
which Macaroni is cooked in real 
Italian style but New Orleans, which 
has long been a favorde point of mi- 
gration for the sons of sunny Italy, 
the Creole cooks have modified and 
improved upon the Italian methods, 
so that Macaroni a, la Creole is just 
as famous a dish as Macaroni SL I'ltal- 
lenne, and by many considered far 
superior. 



Macaroni is used extensively in 
New Orleans in making soups. In 
this particular it was treated under 
the special chapter allotted to soups. 
(See Macaroni Soup.) 

How to Boll Macaroni. 

Always purchase the best quality 
of Macaroni. The cost is small and 
more satisfactory results are ob- 
tained in cooking. Avoid breaking 
the macaroni as much as possible. 
Immerse it whole in a large saucepan 
of boiling water; add a tablespoontul 
of salt and one of butter. Let the 
macaroni cook from twenty to twen- 
ty-five minutes; remove from the fire 
and drain in a colander. If not In- 
tended for immediate use, cover at 
once with cold water. When cool, 
drain and use as needed. 



ng 



Boiled nincnronl, Itnllan Style. 

Macaroni &, I'ltalienne. 

'^ Pound of Macaroni. 
1 Pound of Grated Parmesan Ciieese. 
1 Tablespoonful Flour. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Break the macaroni into conven- 
ient lengths, and set to boil in*a ket- 
tle filled with boiling water and in 
which you have thrown a spoonful of 
salt and black pepper. Be careful to 
keep the lengths of macaroni firm. 
When cooked till tender, take off 
and strain the water. Take one ta- 
blespoonful of butter and one of 
flour and put them on the fire, blend- 
ing well. Have one pound of Par- 
mesan cheese grated; add one-half of 
it to the flour and butter, and one 
pint of the water in which the mac- 
aroni was boiled; the mixture must 
not be allowed to brown; stir briskly 
Place the macaroni by lengths into 
a dish, season well with salt and 
pepper, and warm a few minutes in 
the oven. When warm, take out the 
dish and sprinkle over it one-quarter 
of the pound of cheese that still re- 
mains; pour the hot sauce over this, 
and sprinkle the rest of the cheese 
on top; serve hot. 

Bailed Spagliettl, Italian Style. 

Spaghetti a, I'ltalienne. 

% Pound of Spaghetti. 

1 Pound of Grated 'Parmesan Cheese. 

' 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Spaghetti a, I'ltalienne is prepared 
in the same manner as in the above 
. recipe. Spaghetti is a more delicate 
form of macaroni. 

The Italians in New Orleans also 
simply bo.il the macaroni or spaghetti 
as mentioned above, sprinkle it with 
grated cheese and salt and pepper, 
and serve with a rich tomato sauce 
(see recipe), and grated cheese, the 
latter served in separate plates. This 
latter is a very rich dish. 

Macaroni or Spaghetti thus cooked 
is served with daube and is a very 
palatable dish. 

Maearonl Yvitli Tomato Sance. 

Macaroni a, la Sauce Tomate. 

^ Pound of Macaroni. 
1 Gill of Tomato Sauce. 
1 Gill of Madeira Sauce, or Wine. 
% Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 
1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
A Dash of Cayenne. 
Boil the macaroni in salted water 
for twenty minutes, adding a table- 
spoonful of butter and an onion, with 
two cloves stuck in it. Then drain 
two cloves stuck in it. Then drain the 
macaroni of all water; place it in a 



saucepan with a gill of Tomato Sauce 
and one of Madeira Sauce or Madeira 
Wine. Add a quarter of a pound of 
grated Parmesan cheese;season well 
with salt and pepper; add a dash of 
Cayenne, and let the mixture cook 
slowly for ten or fifteen minutes, toss- 
ing frequently to prevent burning. 
Place the Macaroni on a hot disli, 
pour the sauce over it, and serve 
with grated Parmesan cheese passed 
in a separate dish. Spaghetti may 
be prepared and served in the same 
manner. 

Macaroni, Creole Style, 

Macaroni a, la Creole. 

% Pound of Macaroni. 

% Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresh Ones. 

1 Tahlespoonful Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the macaroni according to the 
recipe given above. When done, drain 
through a colander without breaking 
the lengths. Season well with Salt 
and pepper. Put one tablespoonful of 
butter in a frying pan and add' one 
tablespoonful of flour; blend well and 
as it browns add the tomatoes, which 
have been chopped fine in their own 
juice. Let this stew, after stirring 
well for about ten minutes, and when 
It begins to boil add the macaroni or 
spaghetti, mixing well without break- 
ing the lengths. Let it boil up once, 
and then serve hot. The" dish may be 
served with any meats. 

Macaroni or Spagliettl Milanaise 
Style. 

Macaroni ou Spaghetti a la Milanaise. 

% Pound of Macaroni. 

Vi Pound of Cold Boiled Ham. 

1 Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 
1 Onion. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 

1 Can Tomatoes. 

2 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
Boil the macaroni in water and 
salt as in the recipe given for Boil- 
ing Macaroni. When tender, drain 
well through a* colander. In the 
meantime, while it is boiling, put a 
tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- 
pan, and as it melts, add the grated 
onion. Let this brown, and then add 
the^ ham which you will have minced 
very fine. Let this brown; add the 
clovea of garlic, minced very fine, and 
the herbs, minced very fine. Then add 
almost im.mediately, as these begin to 
brown, for bay leaf burns quickly, a 
half can of tomatoes, or six fresh 
large tomatoes. To this, as It stews, 
add a half pound of grated Parmesan 
cheese, and let all stew for about ten 
minutes; then add the macaroni or 
spaghetti, and let all simmer gently 
for about twenty minutes longer. 
Serve hot, and pass at the same time 



180 



a small plate of grated Parmesan 
cheese to each person. 

Macaroni, Neapolitan Style, 

Macaroni i la Napolitaine. 

J^ Pound of Macaroni. 
Yi Pint of Sauce Espagnole. 
Vi Pint of Tomato Sauce. 
^ Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 
6 Muslirooms. 2 Truffles. 

1 Ounce of Smoked Beet Tongue. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Vt Bottle of Claret. 
1 Carrot. 1 Herb Bouqute. 

2 Sprigs of Celery. 
Boil the macaroni, and cut Into 
pieces of about two inches long-, after 
draining thoroughly. Place it in a 
saucepan with a half pint of Tomato 
Sauce and Sauce Espagnole (see re- 
cipe), and add the cheese. Add the 
herb bouquet, tied together; cut the 
truffles and mushrooms and carrot in- 
to dice-shaped pieces; mince the eel- 
pry and add; then add the beef tongue 
cut into small dice-shaped pieces. To 
this add the Claret. Let all cook for 
about fifteen minutes, tossing fre- 
quently in the meantime. When ready 
to serve, remove the herb bouquet 
and send to the table hot. 

Macaroni an Gratln. 

Macaroni au Gratin. 

% Pound of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 
1 Pound of. Parmesan Cbeese (Grated). 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and ' Pepper to ^aste. 
Boil the macaroni by its length in 
water until soft. Do not let it cook 
too much, but just enough to be soft, 
and lift out of the water without 
breaking. This will require about a 
half hour of rapid boiling'. When 
done, take out of the water In which 
It was boiled, and season well with 
salt and black pepper. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter, blended well with 
flour, into a pint of milk. Let It boll 
two minutes. Place a layer of the 
spaghetti or macaroni In the pan in 
which It is to be baked, seasoning 
again to taste, and mix in a layer of 
the grated cheese; sprinkle with pep- 
per and salt; then put in alternately 
a layer of the macaroni and a layer 
of cheese, and so on until three- 
fourths of the cheese is used. Do not 
break the macaroni or spaghetti. 
Pour over this the boiling milk. Take 
the remaining quarter pound of 
cheese and sprinkle thickly on top, 
dot here and there with bits of but- 
ter, and put in a quick oven and let 
it bake to a nice brown. Serve In 
the dish in which it was baked. In 
cooking macaroni or spaghetti, cream, 
or milk may be used always instead 
of water, using a pint of either In 
the above proportions. If you have 
not the milk, a pint of the water In 



which the macaroni was boiled will 
answer equally well. This recipe Is 
highly recommended as the nicest 
way of preparing macaroni. 

Macaroni or Spaghetti Wltli Danbe, 

Daube au Macaroni ou au Spaghetti. 

% Pound of Macaroni. 

A Veal or Beef Daube. 

1 Pint of Hot Water or Broth. 

This is a popular Creole dish, and 
a very good one, too. Prepare a 
daube. (See recipe, "Boeuf a, la Mode 
ou Daube.) After it has cooked about 
an hour and a half, and is about 
two-thirds done, add the macaroni 
according to the number to be served, 
using between a quarter and a half 
pound for six, and cutting the maca- 
roni into lengths of about five inches, 
to facilitate serving. Let it boil for 
about three-quarters of an hour in 
the daube, and if you see, on adding 
it, that there is not sufficient gravy 
for it to cook well, add a h^lf pint 
or a pint more of hot water or 
hot broth, according as the macaroni 
appears to absorb after it has been 
in the pot four or five minutes. Cook 
until very tender, and on serving 
place the daube in the center of the 
dish and heap the macaroni around. 

Chicken and macaroni may be pre- 
pared in the same way. Both are ex- 
cellent and favorite New Orleans 
ways of serving macaroni. They are 
also very healthy and nutritious fam- 
ily dishes. 

Spaghetti may also be cooked In 
cither of these ways, and makes a 
more delicate dish. 

TImbale of Macaroni. 

Macaroni en Timbale. 

% Pound of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 

1 Head of Edam's Cheese. 

% Pound of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Nearly every family keeps a head 
of Edam's cheese for general use. 
When you have finished, scooping out 
the cheese, do not throw away the 
head, but keep it to make a Timbale 
of Macaroni. Boil a little over one- 
quarter of a pound of macaroni, or 
sufficient to fill the head, according 
to the above directions (Boiled Mac- 
aroni.) When boiled, take out of the 
water and set in a dish. Take about 
half a pint of the liquor in which 
the macaroni was boiled, strain it 
and set it back on the stove; add the 
flour and butter blended, and three- 
quarters of the grated cheese, and let 
it boil five minutes. Then pour this 
sauce over the macaroni in the dish 
and mix well, seasoning with salt and 
pepper to taste. Pill the head with 
this mixture, and sprinkle on top the 
rest of the grated cheese. Set in the 



181 



stove to bake, and, when nicely 
browned, serve hot from the shell at 
the cheese. The macaroni may also 
be baked in molds, but there is no 
comparison to the Timbale when 
made in the empty cheese head. This 
is a grenuine Timbale of Macaroni, 
and the only way to really teake the 
dish. 

Mncaroul Balls. 
^ Boulettes de Macaroni. 

1 Cwp of Cold Boilefl Macaroni. 

1 Cnp Boilins Milk. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Cheese. 

The Yolks of 4 EgKS. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the butter into a saucepan, and 



as it melts add the flour, but do not 
let it brown. Add the cup of bolliijs 
milk and atir well. When it begins 
to thicken add the grated cheese, 
and let it simmer for a few minute.-s 
longer; then take from the fire and 
■add the beaten yolks of four eggs. 
Have the macaroni cut into tiny bits 
and work it well into this mixture. 
Then set it aside to cool. When cold, 
'take a little flour, rub it on your 
hands, and form the macaroni 
into small balls about two inch- 
es in length and one in thick- 
ness. Dip the balls into a 
well-beaten egg, roll well and then 
roll in grated cracker crumbs. Fry 
in boiling lard, and .".erve hot. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 
CHEESE. 

Du Fromage. 



Cheese is one of the most nutritious 
of all f(>od substances, being not only 
substantial, but especially rich in ni- 
trogenous matter. Among scientists 
it ranks very high as an article of 
food. Being somewhat expensive, it 
is not as economical as other kinds of 
food, but the Creole family must be 
very poor indeed in which cheese of 
some kind is not served after each 
meal, especially after dinner. They 
hold that cheese is a good aid to di- 
gestion, and if it is simply the Gru- 
y§re cheese or the plain "From"age 
a, I'Americain," you will always see 
it passed around as a proper finish to 
a meal just before the coffee is 
brought in. 

So much for the cheese in its na- 
tural state. In cooking, the Creoles 
use some very delightful forms, chief 
among which is that old French prep- 
aration known as 

Cheese Ramakins. 

Ramequins de Fromage. 

6 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Cheese. 

1% Gills of Milk. 

The Yolks of Three Eggs. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Ounces of Bread. 

% Tablespoonful of Prepared Mustard. 

The Whites of Three Eggs. 

Cayenne and Salt to Taste. 

Put the milk on to boil, and add the 
bread, which you will have minced 
fine. Stir the milk and bread until 
very smooth, and then add the but- 
ter, stirring well, and finally the 
grated cheese. Stir this for five min- 
utes, letting it boil, and then take 
off the fire and add the beaten yolks 
of three eggs. Have the whites 



ready, beaten to a stiff froth, and 
stir them in very gently. Season to 
taste. Grease a baking dish with but- 
ter and pour the mixture into the 
dish, set in a quick oven, and let it 
bake for a quarter of an hour. Serve 
hot. 

Cheese SonfflC-. 

SoufilS de Fromage. 

Vi Pound of Grated Cheese. 

1 Gill of Fresh Cream or Milk. 

3 Creole Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Pinch of Grated Nutmeg. 

1 Pinch Cayenne. Salt to Taste. 

Grate the cheese very fine and then 
add to it the boiling milk; add grad- 
ually the pepper, Cayenne and salt. 
Then add the butter and flour, rubbed 
well together. When the cheese is 
well dissolved, take the mixture off; 
then add nutmeg and the beaten 
yolks of three eggs and the whites 
of two eggs beaten to a froth; stir 
the whole well. Place all in a ghal- 
low earthern dish, add a little butter 
that has been well melted and put in 
the stove for a few minutes till it be- 
gins to solidify well; then take out 
and spread on top the white of one 
egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Set one 
minute in the stove,- let it 
brown slightly and serve im- 
mediately. If you cannot at- 
tain the acme of browning the 
whites of eggs without letting them 
fall; stir the whites into the mixture 
with the eggs and serve hot, after 
letting it brown slightly. Some add 
a little mustard to the mixture, but 
it is better without it. 



182 



Toasted Clieese. 

Fromage sur Canapes. 

% Pound of Cheese. 6 Slices of Bread. 
Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

Toast the bread nicely and butter 
it. Cut the cheese into very thin 
slices and hold to the Are, letting it 
toast nicely, first on one side and 
then on the other. Lay this upon 
the buttered toast and serve hot. 
This is a very nice delicacy for 
breakfast, or for an evening in win- 
ter when seated around the home 
fire. 

Cbeese Straws. 

Pailles de Fromage. 

1 Cup of Grated Parmesan or Gruyere Cheese. 

1 Cup Flour. _1 Tablespoonful Butter, 

Yolk of an Egg. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

Blond the flour and cheese togeth- 
er and add at the same time- the salt 
and Cayenne; then moisten with a 
well-beaten egg and one tablespoon- 
ful of melted butter, and work all 
gently into a paste. Roll out on a 
biscuit board into thin strips of not 
more than an eighth of an inch in 
thickness, and cut into strips of four 
inches in length and one-eighth of an 
inch in width. Place on buttered 
sheets of paper and bake in a very 
hot oven until a light brown. It is 
very pretty to make little rings of 
some of the strips and pass the others 
through them in little bundles like 
gathered bound bits of straw. This 
Is a very dainty dlsn. 

Welsh Rarebit. 

Fromage Fondu a. la BiSre. 

2 Cups of Grated Cheese (Very Rich). 

% Cup of Milk. The Yolks of Two Eggs. 

Salt and Cayenne to Taste. 

The old English dish, "Welsh 
Rarebit," under this name crossed 
the channel to France, and thence to 
New Orleans. 

Toast the bread nicely in square 
slices and cut off the crusts. Butter 
nicely while very hot and then 
plunge them into a bowl of boiling 
milk. Place them on a heated dish 
and stand in the oven to keep hot 
■while you proceed to make the 
"Rarebit." Have a porcelain-lined 
saucepan; and set a half cup of milk 
in it over a moderate fire; when it 
is boiling hot, add the cheese which 
has been finely grated; stir unceas- 
ingly till the cheese melts, and then 
add tile salt, Cayenne and the yolks 
of the eggs and pour over the toasted 
bread. Serve hot. In making this 
"D61icat6sse," the cheese must be 
very rich or it will be tough and 
stringy, because poor cheese will not 
melt. 



Cheese Biscuits. 

Biscuits de Fromage. 

Yi Pound of Butter. Vi Pound of Flour. 

5 Ounces of Grated Swiss Cheese. 

% Tablespoonful of Mustard. 

Tolks of 2 Eggs. A Dash of Cayenne. 

Beat the butter to a cream; add 

the yolks of the eggs, well beaten, 

and mix well. Then add gradually 

the grated cheese, mustard and Ca- 

yenne. Add the flour gradually, 

beating in thoroughly and make a 

stiff dough. Roll It out and cut into 

square or round biscuits. Bake in a 

rather slow oven for twenty minutes 

and serve. 

Cheese Fondu, 

Fromage Fondu. 

1 Cup of Grated Parmesan or Gruyere Cheese. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Sifted Flour. 

2 TSblespoonfuls of Butter. 3 Creole Eggs. 

% Cup of Fresh Milk or Cfeam. 
A Pinch of Urated Nutmeg. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the butter into a saucepan and 
melt, and add the flour, blending 
without allowing it to brown. Add 
immediately the boiling milk,- and let 
it boil for two minutes. Then re- 
move from the fire and stir in the 
yolks of three eggs, well beaten; 
then salt, pepper, nutmeg and the 
grated cheese. Mix all thoroughly. 
Have ready a small pudding dish, or, 
better still several small souffie dish- 
es. Butter these well. Have the 
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth beat them into the mixture and 
fill the dishes about two-thirds full, 
Then bake in a moderate oven for 
about twenty-five minutes. Serve 
immediately, or the mixture which 
has risen to the top of the dishes will 
fall. 

Cream Cheese. 

Fromage 3. la Cr&me. 

Cream Cheese is always made from 
clabbered milk. The "Cream Cheese 
Woman" is still as common a sight 
on our New Orleans streets as the 
Cala woman was in the days gone 
by. She carries a covered basket in 
which are a number of small perfo- 
rated tins in which the cheese are. 
In her other hand she carries a can 
of fresh cream. She sells her wares 
to her regular customers, for the old 
Creoles who do not make their own 
cream cheese are very particular as 
to whom they buy from, and when 
once a good, clean, careful woman 
gets a "customer" she keeps her 
during her period of business, com- 
ing early every fast day and Friday 
with her cheese and cream, for this 
is a fast-day breakfast and luncheon 
dish. 

Many of the Creoles, however, 
make their own cream cheese, as fol- 



183 



lows: The clabber is placed in a long 
bag of muslin and put to drain, the 
bag being tied tightly and hung out 
over night in a cool place. When 
ready for use, the bag is opened and 
the cheese is taken out and beaten 
till light. It is then placed in these 
perforated molds, and when the time 
comes for serving it is taken out 
placed in a dish, and sweet cream is 
poured over it. It is eaten with su- 
gar or salt, more generally sugar. 
Frozen cream cheese is a very del- 



icious summer dish with the Creoles. 
Some persons, after skimming the 
cream from the sour milk, stand the 
pan on the back of the stove, and 
scald the clabber with about three 
quarts of boiling water before put- 
ting in the bag to drain. Again, 
some use only the perforated tins, 
instead of the muslin bag, but the 
best results are obtained by the form- 
er ancient Creole method. Cream 
cheese corresponds to the German 
"Schmier Kase." 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 
CANAPfiS. 

CanapSs. 



No book on Creole cookery would 
be complete without reference to the 
delightful "Canapes" that are so ex- 
tensively used at breakfasts, lunch- 
eons, dinners or suppers, and whose 
methods of preparation, distinctively 
Creole, have added to the reputation 
of the Creole cuisine. "CanapS" is a 
French term, literally meaning a 
"couch" or "bed." In the culinary 
sense it is used as a bed on which to 
rest savory foods. Usually the Can- 
apS is the form of sliced bread, or 
toast, or crackers, covered with finely 
minced meats, pastes, etc., and hand- 
somely decorated. It is a term that 
is also applied to the ordinary "Sand- 
wich." 

AnchoiT Canapes. 
Canapes d'Anchois. 

6 Slices of Dry Toast. 

1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. 

2 Dozen Anciovies. 

First prepare the Anchovy Butter, 
by adding to one ounce of good reg- 
ular butter one teaspoonful of Ancho- 
vy Essence. Mix well and set on 
ice till ready to use. 

Prepare six slices of bread, slicing 
them about one-half an inch thick 
and toasting to a golden brown. Trim 
the edges nicely and spread over each 
a little Anchovy Butter and then 
cover each with four Anchovies cut 
in halves, or pounded to a paste, ac- 
cording to taste. Place the toasts on 
a tin baking sheet in an oven for one 
minute, and then arrange neatly on 
a folded napkin on a dish and serve. 

Anchovy CanapSs "With Hard-Boiled 

Elggs, 

Canapgs d'Anchois aux Oeufs Durs. 

6 Slices of French Toast. 

1 Dozen Anchovies. 2 Hard-Bollefl Eggs. 

1 Oilnce of Anchovy Butter. 

Prepare six slices of French toast 

(see recipe), spread over each a lit- 



tle Anchovy Butter, and then spread 
bver this buttered toast the Ancho- 
vies and hard-boiled eggs, which 
have been finely minced and mixed 
together. Place on a folded napkin 
in a dish and serve. 

Anohovy CanapSs, Creole Style. 

Canapfis d'Anchois a. la Crfeole. 

6 Slices ot French Toast. 

1 Dozen Anchovies. 1 Ounce ot Grated Ham. 

6 Gherkins. % a Truffle. 

1 Tablespoonful of Salad Oil. 

1 Teaspoonful of Caper Vinegar. 

i Ounce ot Aspic Jelly. 

Prepare the French toasts (see re- 
cipe) ; trim the edges neatly. Chop 
the Anchovies very fine and mix with 
the ounce of grated boiled ham, and 
the truffle and gherkins, all minced 
very fine; moisten this with the salad 
oil and vinegar, which have been 
well mixed. Spread over the toast 
and garnish nicely with the aspic 
jelly, and place on a folded nap- 
kin and serve. The Anchovy prep- 
aration may also be used to fill very 
small patty cases; in this case, serve 
with a garnish of delicate pieces of 
toast and Aspic Jelly. 

Anchovy Canapts With GraySre 
Cheese. 

CanapSs d'Anchois au Fromage de 
GruySre. 
6 Slices of French Toast. 
2 Ounces ot Gruyere Cheese. 
16 Anchovies. 
6 Minced Gherkins. 1 Ounce of Anchovy 
Butter. 
Prepare the French toast (see re- 
cipe) ; pound the Anchovies to a paste 
with the Gruyfire cheese; line very 
shallow gem pans with a pie paste. 
(See recipe.) When baked, set to 
cool, and then fill in with the Ancho- 
vy preparation. Then invert this on 
a circle of nicely buttered Anchovy 



184 



toast; garnish with the minced gher- 
kins and serve. 

Cracker Anclioi'7' Canap£s. 

Canapgs d'Anchois aux Biscuit. 

1 Dozen Soda Crackers or Butter Crackers. 

2 Dozen Anchovies. 

1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. 

Cut the Anchovies into halves. But- 
ter one side of six crackers with the 
Anchovy butter; lay on this four An- 
chovies sliced in half; cover each 
with a cracker; place on a folded 
napkin on a dish and serve. A very 
pretty conceit at luncheons is to tie 
the crackers across and around with 
narrow green ribbon, making a deli- 
cate knot in the center. 

Swiss Canapes. 

Canapgs a, la Suisse. 

1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. 
S Hard-Bolled Eggs. 6 Stuffed Olives. 

3 Minced Green Gherkins. 
6 Slices of Toast. 
Prepare the French toast, and cut 
six delicate pieces into the shape of 
a triangle. Spread these with An- 
chovy butter; decorate along one side 
with the whites of the eggs, finely 
minced; along the second triangular 
edge with the minced yolks of the 
eggs and on the third with the 
minced green gherkins. Place a 
stuffed olive (see tecipe) in the cen- 
ter, and arrange nicely on a folded 
napkin on a dish and serve. 

Caviar CanapSs. 

CanapSs de Caviar. 

6 Slices of French Toast. 

% of a Box of Russian Caviar. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. 

Prepare the toast and out in deli- 
cate circles. In the meantime put 
half the contents of a small box of 
Russian Caviars into a sautoire or 
"saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of 
cream and ^leat one and a half min- 
utes on the stove. Be careful to 
stir constantly. Pour this over the 
toast; place on a dish on a folded 
napkin and serve. Again, the circles 
of toast may be used as a foundation, 
the edges being spread with Anchovy 
butter, with an onion ring at Its base. 
Pill this decorated ring with the Ca- 
viars, place on a folded napkin on a 
dish and serve. i 

Canapes, Hunters' Style. 

Canapes a, la Chasseur. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

1 C^p of Forcemeat of Game (White Meat). 

% Cup of Forcemeat of Game (Dark Meat). 

Prepare trianguar-shaped pieces of 
toast, butter nicely and spread over 
with a game forcemeat (Woodcock, 
Snipe, Keed Birds, etc.) Decorate 
the edges with a forcemeat of game 
of diflerent color, for effect, and serve. 



The wild duck, the meat of which 
is dark, may be utilized in this gar- 
'nish. Left-over game also may be 
thus nicely utilized at luncheon or 
supper. 



Crab Canapes. 

CanapSa de Crabes au Canapfis 

Lorenzo. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

8 Hard-Shelled Crabs. 1 Ounce of Butter. 

1 Small Onion. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespooufuli 

of Flour. 

1 Gill of Broth or Water. 

2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 

2 Ounces of Grated Swiss Cheese. 

For this recipe first prepare the 
'Deviled Crabs" as follows: Boil the 
crabs. (See recipe Boiled Crabs ) 
Then pick out all the meat from the 
claws and bodies, and season nicely 
with salt and pepper. Put one ounce 
of butter into the saucepan, and add 
a finely minced onion; let this cook 
on a slow fire for two minutes, but 
by no means allow either butter or 
onion to brown. Add a tablespoon- 
ful of flour, and stir constantly for a 
minute and a half, and then add a 
gill of broth or water, if the broth is 
not convenient. Stir well and let 
this mixture cook for five minutes, 
stirring constantly. Now add the crab 
meat and let it cook for fifteen min- 
utes longer, stirring occasionally 
with a wooden spoon. Turn the mix- 
ture into a dish and let it cool for 
about a quarter of an hour. Put a 
tablespoonful of butter into a sauce- 
pan, and add Immediately a table- 
spoonful of flour and blend well; let 
this cook for three minutes, stir- 
ring all the time, and then a;dd two 
ounces of grated Parmesan and two 
ounces of grated Swiss cheese. Stir 
all well together, blending thorough, 
ly, and then turn into a vessel to 
cool. Cut six slices of bread the full 
length and width of the loaf, using 
preferably the "Pan Bread," or deli- 
cate French loaf. Let the thickness 
of each slice be about a quarter of an 
inch; neatly trim off the crust, and 
fry the bread in a saucepan with a 
tablespoonful of butter till they have 
reached a golden brown. Then let 
them cool, draining off all butter. 
Divide the crab forcemeat and the 
cheese separately into six equal parts; 
place a layer of the crab forcemeat 
one-quarter of an inch thick on each 
slice of toast. Take the six portions 
of cheese and roll each Into a ball- 
shaped form about two Inches in dia- 
meter, and arrange them on each por- 
tion of toast nicely and equally; place 
in a dish and brown in the oven for 
five minutes, and send the Canapfis to 
the table hot in the same dish In 
which they were baked. 



185 



Obtofeen CnnnpSs. 

Canapgs de Volaile. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

1 Cup of Chicken Forcemeat. Ounce of Butter 

1 Gill of Cream. 

The Whites of 2 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 

2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. 

Prepare a Chicken Forcemeat (see 
recipe), and then prepare six slices 
of toast, cut square or in circles. Add 
an ounce of butter and one gill of 
cream to the chicken forcemeat; 
■work well together, and then set to 
cool. Spread the toast lightly with 
butter, and spread over each slice a 
portion of the chicken forcemeat to 
the thickeness of one-quarter of an 
Inch; sprinkle with grated Parmesan 
cheese, set in the oven and bake for 
five minutes, and then decorate in 
the center with delicately cut pieces 
of the white of hard-boiled eggs and 
serve. 

CanapSs of Chicken Livers. 

Canapes de Foies de Volaille. 

1 Dozen Chicken Livers. 1 Onion. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

Dash of Anchovy Essence. 1 Ounce of Butter. 

Salt and Red Pepper to Taste. 

Pimentos and Ked Chili to Garnish. 

SautS the Chicken Livers (see re- 
cipe) with a finely minced onion till 
tender; then pound them to a paste, 
adding first a dash of Anchovy' Es- 
sence, one tablespoonful of butter, 
salt and red pepper to taste. Cut the 
bread the full width of the loaf and 
trim the . edges nicely; then fry in 
butter to a golden brow^n; take out 
and drain, an(f place in a silver dish, 
or in the dish in w^hich they are to 
be served, and pile up the chicken 
liver preparation in pyramidal shape 
on top of the toast; smooth nicely all 
around with a knife and set in the 
oven for two or three minutes; then 
decorate the edges of the bread with 
slices of Pimentos and rings of Red 
Chilis and serve hot. 

Creole CanapSs. 

CanapSs a. la CrSoIe. 

Cup of Grated or Minced Boiled Ham. 

1 Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1 Peeled Tomato. 1 lllnced Green Pepper. 

6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Ounces of Par- 
mesan Cheese. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Grate and mince only the lean por- 
tion of ham till you have a cupful. 
Put this in a saucepan with a ta- 
blespoonful of butter, and add the 
finely minced onion and garlic. Let 
this cook for three minutes, and then 
add the finely-cut tomato and minced 
green pejpper. Season to taste with 
salt and pepper; add a dash of Ca- 
yenne, and letvthe preparation stew 
down dry; then spread on strips of 
buttered toast and dredge with grated 



Parmesan cheese. Set in the oven 
in the dish in which it is to be 
served and bake for five minutes and 
send to the table hot. 

Clieese Canapes. 

CanapSs de Fromage. 

6 Slices of Swiss Cheese. 

6 Slices of Toast. 
1 Gill of Sauce Plquaute. 
Take six slices of bread cut the 
whole width of the. loaf, one-halt 
inch in thickness, and hollow out 
one-half of the inner portion. Toast 
this nicely and spray the inner part 
with Piquante Sauce. (See recipe.) 
Have ready six slices of toasted or 
baked Swiss cheese; fit a slice into 
each cavity in the sliced toast; set. 
in the oven for a few minutes and 
serve very hot. 

Coilflsli CanapSs, 

Canapfis de Cabillaud ou de Morue. 
1 Cup of Boiled Salt Codfish. 
1 Green Pepper. 3 Young Onions. 
1 Teaspoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. 
Capers to Garnish. 
Boil the codfish (see recipe), or 
utilize left-over fish; mince finely and 
mix thoroughly with the minced 
green peppers and young onions, and 
season with one teaspoonful of Tar- 
ragon vinegar. Spread on triangu- 
lar-shaped pieces of toast placed on 
a dish on a folded napkin. Decorate 
nicely with capers and serve. 

Ham Canapes. 

CanapSs de Jarhbon. 
6 Slices of Lean Ham. 
6 Slices of Toast. 
1 Tablespoonful of French JIustard. 
1 Gill of Cold White Sauce. 
1 Boiled Onion. 1 Cooked Garlic. 
2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 
Prepare the toast nicely, cutting 
the slices the full width of the bread, 
paring the edges nicely and toasting 
and buttering well. Lay on each 
piece of toast a thin slice of very 
lean ham, which has been lightly 
spread with French mustard. Spread 
lightly over this a cold "White .Sauce 
(see recipe "White Sauce, Sauce 
Blanche) to which has been added 
while cooking a finely-minced onion 
and clove of garlic, and a dash of 
Parmesan cheese. Dredge the top of 
the CanapS with Parmesan cheese, 
then sprinkle lightly with finely- 
grated bread crumbs. Set in the oven 
for five minutes and bake and send 
to the table hot. 

Fisli CanapSs. 

Canapfis de Poisson. 

1 Cup of Minced Left-Over Fish. 

1 Tablespoonful of French Mustard Dressing. 

1 Gill of Sauce Piquante. 

2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. 

6 .Slices of Toast. 

Utilize in this form of Canapfi any 

kind of white-fleshed Fish, Red Fish, 



186 



Red Snapper, Sheephead or Trout, 
etc. Prepare a forcemeat (see re- 
cipe) and season with tlie Frencli 
Mustard and the Piquant Sauce. 
Spread a layer one-quarter of an 
inch thick over delicate strips of 
toast, dredge with grated Parmesan 
Cheese, set in the oven, and bake for 
five minutes and serve hot. 

Canap£s of Potted Ham, 

Canapgs de Jambon en Conserve. 

1 Box of Potted Ham. 
2 Ounces of Grated Bailed Ham. 
Ibln Slices of Green Glicrkins^, 
6 Slices of Toast. 

Prepare delicate strips of Toast, 
spread with Potted Ham to a quarter 
of an Inch in thickness, then sprinkle 
lightly with grated ham and decorate 
the edges, and cover fideslred, with 
thinly-sliced Green Gherkins. The 
grated Boiled Ham may be omitted. 

Indian Canapes. 

Ca:nap6s a. I'lndienne. 

1 Bos of Potted Ham. 1 Ounce of Cbutney. 

fl Slices of Toast. 

2 OuDCes~^f Grated Parmesan Clieese. 

Cut six slices of bread into delicate 
circles, and fry in butter. Spread 
first with Potted Ham and then with 
Chutney. Sprinkle with grated Par- 
mesan Cheese. Set in the oven to 
brown for five minutes, and serve hot. 

Oyster Canapes. 

Canapfis d'HuItres. 

3 Dozen Oysters. 6 Slices of Toast. 

2 Tablespoonfols of Hollandalse Sauce. 

Parsley Sprigs. 

Blanch the oysters (see recipe) and 
then mince very fine. Mix with two 
tablespoonfuls of Hollandalse Sauce, 
and then spread over thin strips of 
Buttered toast. Sprinkle lightly with 
Parsley, which has been grated so 
fine as to be almost a dust. Put a 
bit of butter on top of each Canap6 
set In the oven for a few minutes, 
and send to the table hot. 

Olive CanapSs. 

Canapes d'Olives. 

6 Stuffed Olives. 6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 

6 AnchoTles. 

Capers and Minced Olive to Garnish. 

Prepare the toast and cut Into del- 
icate circles. Place on each circle a 
coiled Anchovy, and set a Stuffed 
Olive in the center of the coil. Dec- 
orate. lightly with Olives and Capers 
minced very fine, and serve. Again, 
this Canapg may be prepared by fry- 
ing the circles of toast in butter, and 
spreading them with Anchovies 
pounded to a paste, and decorating 
on top with minced Capers and Ol- 
ives. 



Canapes of Potted Tongrae. 

Canapes de Langue de Boeuf en Con- 
serve. 

1 Box of Potted Tongue. 

Strips of Cooked Pork Tongue. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

Prepare the toast and cut into deli- 
cate circles. Spread with a layer of 
Potted Tongue one-quarter of an incli 
In thickness, and decorate with strips 
of cooked Bed Tongue In lattice 
forms, that is with strips laid one 
over the other, like a lattice work. 

Louisiana Canap£s. 

Canap§s a, la Louisiane. 
Two Breasts of Cliicken. % of a Red Tongue. 
2 Ounces of Grated Lean Boiled Ham. 
A Dash of Ourry Powder. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Thick Veloute Sance. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 
Mince very fine the cooked breasts 
of the chicken, and cut the ham and 
tongue Into small dice shapes; mix 
well with the chicken, and season 
with salt and a dash of Cayenne. 
Add a dash of Curry Powder, and 
then work the entire forcemeat well 
with two tablespoonfuls of thick Vel- 
outS Sauce. (See recipe.) Spread 
the mixture in layers one-quarter of 
an inch thick on each slice of deli- 
cate circles of toast, dredge lightly 
with Parmesan Cheese, set in the 
oven for five minutes and bake. Send 
to the table hot. 

Sardine CanapSs, 

Canapes de Sardines. 

6 Triangular Slices of Toast. 

1 Box of Sardines. 3 Hard-BoIIed Eggs. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 6 Anchovies. 

A Dash of Red Pepper. 

Pound the sardines and the hard- 
boiled eggs to a paste, season with 
a dash of Red Pepper and the juice 
of a lemon and spread the buttered 
toast with the mixture. Decorate In 
the center with a coiled Anchovy. 
Or, simply pound the sardines to a 
paste, season with a dash of red pep- 
per and the juice of a lemon, and 
spread on the slices of buttered toast. 

Spanlsli Canapes. 

Canapes a. I'Espagnole. 

6 Circular Pieces of Buttered Toast. 

1 Cup of Finely Minced White Fleshed Fish. 

3 Sweet Pickles. 

1 Tablespoonful of Madras Chutney. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Hollandalse Sauce. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Parmesan Cheese. 
Prepare circular pieces of but- 
tered toast, make a mixture of a cup 
of any whlte-fieshed fish, the Ma- 
dras Chutney moistened with the 
Hollandalse Sauce and minced 
pickles, all pounded together. 
Spread this over the toast and 
dredge with grated Parmesan 
Cheese. Set In the oven and 
bake for five minutes. 



187 



CANNELONS. 

Cannelon is a term applied to pe- 
culiar hollow lengths of puff paste 
or noodle paste, made by taking a 
piece of piping or tubing and cutting 
the paste into strips and twining 



around the tubing or piping. Bake 
or fry this preparation, remove the 
tubing and fill in the cannelons with 
a forcemeat of sausage, chicken cro- 
^ quette mixture, preserves, jellies or 
creams. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



VEGETABLES. 

Des Legumes. 



Louisiana is peculiarly favored in 
respect to the variety of vegetables 
that can be grown on her soil. Al- 
most all the sturdier varieties of 
vegetables and all the more delicate 
and recherchfe are grown here in 
abundance. The soil Is so rich and 
fruitful that it has been said that 
if you simply scatter the seed 
over the ground, without any ef- 
fort at cultivation, it would 
still take root and a good crop 
would follow. Our climate also ad- 
mits of two seasons of planting, so 
that we have both an early spring 
and autumn crop; the one extends far 
into the summer and verging upon 
the autumn, and the other till late 
in the winter and verging upon the 
early spring. Consequently, vegeta- 
bles are always to be found In abun- 
dance in our markets. 

The nutritive value of vegetable 
food is high, especially of peas, beans 
and lentils. Among the succulent 
vegetables, the potato ranks as the 
most nutritious, and there is scarcely 
a table in New Orleans on which 
the potato in some form is not served 
every day. Turnips, carrots, cab- 
bage, parsnips, beets, onions, aspara- 
gus, spinach, cauliflower, artichokes 
and egg plants are all highly nu- 
tritious, and most of them possess 
medicinal qualities that make them 
of great value as blood purifiers. The 
old Creoles hold that the family that 
makes it a daily practice to eat vege- 
tables and fruits, when in season, 
will never have need of a physician. 
All green vegetables should be fresh- 
ly gathered when bought, and should 
be well washed in cold water before 
cooking. Some vegetables, such as 
dried beans, split peas and lentils, 
do not boil to softness in hard water, 
that is, when put into boiling water. 
The seeds contain salts of lime, or 
sulphates, and these at once coagu- 
late if the vegetable is put into hot 
water to boil, and no after amount 
of boiling can ever bring them quite 
to softness. Always put such vege- 
tables to cook in cold water, allow- 



ing it to heat gradually with the 
vegetables. 

on the other hand, young green 
vegetables, such as green peas and 
Strang beans, are best cooked in hard 
or boiling water, for the cold water 
has such solvent powers that it im- 
mediately destroys the firmness of the 
outer coating of the vegetable, and 
tlie color also, the juices passing out 
into the water. Onions should be set 
to boil in hot water. 

Some vegetables such as green 
peas, spinach, string beans, Brussels 
sprouts, should be boiled uncovered, 
it you wish them to retain freshness 
of color. 

A most important rule is to allow 
the vegetable to cook until done or 
tender, and not a moment longer, or 
it will be wet and soggy. Remove the 
vegetable from the nre the moment 
it is done, and do not allow it to 
stand in the water, but be careful 
to drain at once thoroughly. It is a 
wise rule to calculate the time that 
will be required in cooking the vege- 
table and the hour at which you in- 
tend to serve it, and so arrange that 
it will be put on at the proper time, 
and be "just done" at the proper hour 
for serving. Above all, don't let the 
vegetable stand in a hot oven and dry 
up while waiting for the meal to be 
served. Place in a dish over a pot of 
boiling water, and this will keep it 
hot and moist. 

In the following recipes the vege- 
tables found in our New Orleans mar- 
kets are treated systematically. It 
will be noticed that new-fangled re- 
cipes, with high-sounding titles that 
mean nothing but some old-time 
method of cooking in a new dress, 
have been carefully eschewed. Dish- 
es have been called by their proper 
names, and care taken not to con- 
fuse by a vast number of recipes, 
whose value is worthless. The Cre- 
oles believe that the flavor of a veg- 
etable should be dominant in every 
way in which it is served. They, 
therefore, cling with singular tenac- 
ity to the old-fashioned methods, 
rather than the so-called elegant 
novelties, whose chief aim seems to 
be, judging from the combinations 



188 



,lhat enter into the recipes, to utterly 
destroy the original taste of the veg- 
etable itself. 

ARTICHOKES. 

Des Artichauts. 

Artichokes are of two kinds: The 
French or Green Globe Artichokes, 
which have large scaly heads, like 
the cones of a pine, and the Jerusa- 
lem Artichokes. The latter are little 
esteemed by the fastidious, the pref- 
erence being always given to the 
former, which is a more delicate and 
tender variety, and a popular favor- 
ite. In Louisiana the Jerusalem Ar- 
tichoke is cultivated principally for 
its tubers, "which are very valu-^ible 
for stock and hog feeding, owing to 
their fattening properties. But, if 
boiled or made into a purfee, these ar- 
tichokes will be found not only a 
pleasant, but most nutritious food. 
French artichokes may be boiled or 
stuffed or fried. 

To tell it a French Artichoke is 
tender, lift up one of the scales that 
lie near the body of the vegetable. 
If it breaks without effort, the veg- 
etable is young; otherwise, the ar- 
tichoke will be tough and disagreea- 
ble to eat. 

Frencb ArtlcUokes Boiled. 

Artichauts Frangais Bouillis. 

6 Tender Fresh Artichokes. 1 Tablespoouful 

of Vinegar. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Sauce, according to 
Taste. 

Strip off the coarse outer leaves, 
or, better still, cut the stalks close 
with a pair of scissors, and trim the 
sharp points from the leaves, re- 
moving about a quarter of an inch of 
each. Cut the stalks about an inch 
from the bottom. Throw in cold wa- 
ter and wash well, adding a little 
vinegar to draw out any lurking in- 
sects. Have on the stove a pot of 
boiling water, and add a teaspoonful 
of salt. Throw in the artichokes and 
boil gently untilit is possible to draw 
out a' leaf easify, or until the outer 
leaves are tender. Take from the 
fire and drain upon a dish, placing 
them upside down, so that the water 
may all run off. Stand on their stalks 
in another dish when thoroughly 
drained, and serve hot with a Drawn 
Butter Sauce, Sauce a, la Maltre 
d'Hotel or a Sauce a. la Hollandaise. 

The time for boiling an artichoke 
depends entirely on the age and size 
of the vegetable and requires all the 
way from twenty-flve minutes to an 
hour. 

Jemsalem Articliokes Boiled. 

Topinambours Bouillis. 

6 Jerusalem Artichokes. Sauce a la Maltre 

d'Hotel or a la Creme. 

Wash the artichokes in cold water, 
and scrape them. Then throw them 
into cold water, and let them soak 



for an hour or so. Take out and 
drain. Put them in a saucepan; cov- 
er with boiling water, and let the.m 
boil slowly until tender; watch care- 
'' fully, as they will easily harden again 
Serve with a Sauce a. la Maltre d'Ho- 
tel or a Cream Sauce. (See recipes.) 

PurSe of Jerusalem Artichokes. 

Purge de Topinambours a, la Cr&me. 
6 Artichokes. 1 Tablespoouful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Wash and skin the artichokes, and 
boil until tender in a pint of water. 
Press them through a colander, and 
return to the fire in a saucepan in 
which you have placed a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, salt and pepper. Stir 
well, and let them simmer for five 
minutes longer, and serve with a 
Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) 

Fried Artichokes. 

Artichauts Frits. 
6 Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Pluck off the coarse scales of the 
articbotee, and th«n throw the veg- 
etable into cold water. Let it stand 
for an hour. Then drain. Cut the i 
•meat into delicate slices, and fry in 
butter, just as' you would potato 
chips. Serve with Filet of Beef, Veal 
SautS, Smothered Chicken, etc. 
Artichokes SautSs, 
Artichauts Sautfis. 
6 Fine Tender Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfnlt 
of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. Any Sauce 

Desired. 
Take six fine artichokes and cut 
into quarters. Remove the choke en- 
tirely. :, Trim the leaves neatly and 
parboil in hot water for five min- 
utes, being careful to add a tea- 
spoohf ijf of salt and a tablespoonful of 
vinegar to the water. After five 
minutes remove the artichokes and 
drain thoroughly. Place ;n a sauce- 
pan pr sautoire, with two good ta- 
blespoonfuls of butter. Cover the 
pan tight and sot to cook in a moder- 
ate oven for twenty-flve minuti'S, 
Then take the artichojces from the 
pan and place in a deep serving dish 
and serve with a Sauce a. la Maltre 
d'Hotel, a Drawn Butter Sauce, a 
Hollandaise Sauce, or any sauce de- 
sired. 

Artichokefv A la Vinaigrette. 

Artichauts a. la Vinaigrette. 
Fine, Tender Young Artichokes. 3 Table- 
spoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 1 Shallot, 

The Yolk of a Hard-Boiled Egg. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Prepare and boil the artichokes as 
in recipe for French Artichokes 
Boiled (see recipe.) Serve with the 
following sauce: Take the yolk of 
a hard-boiled egg, dilute It with two 
teaspoonfuls of vinegar, blend well, 
season to taste with salt and pepper; 



189 



chop the shallot very, very fine, add 
to the mixture, and then add gradu- 
ally three tablespoonfuls of Olive 
Oil. Mix all together well. Place 
■ the artichokes on a folded napkin on 
a dish, and send to the table with 
the sauce in a separate dish. 

Stuffed Articliokes. 

Artichauts Parois a, la Barigoule. 

3 Quarts of Boiled Artichokes. 

1 Ouion, ilinced. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 

V2 Square Incli of Ham. 

1 Tables?oonful Butter. M, Can of Muslirooms. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Clean and boil the artichokes ac- 
cording to recipe. (Boiled Arti- 
chokes.) When the leaves begin to 
be tender and it is possible to pull 
out a leaf without difficulty, take the 
artichokes off the fire. Pull off a few 
of the coarse leaves, and then scoop 
out the artichoke, without touching 
the "fond," or bottom meat, and with- 
out breaking the outer scales or 
leaves from the sides and around. 
The artichoke must be apparently 
whole and undisturbed. Then chop 
an onion, or, rather,- mince it very 
fine, and mince two cloves of garlic 
and half a square inch of ham very, 
. very fine. Take a quarter of a can 
of mushrooms and mince them fine. 
Mix all this together as a stuffing, 
and season well w^ith salt, pepper and 
Cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of 
butter in a frying pan, and fry the 
dressing in it for about five or ten 
minutes. Takp'pff the flre. and stuff 
each artichoke from the center, which 
you will have scooped, beginning Just 
above the heart or "fond" of the ar- 
tichoke. Pour over each a spoonful 
of broth or consomm6, or water; 
sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; 
put a dot of butter on each, and set 
. in the oven and bake for five min- 
utes, till the crumbs are nicely 
browned. Serve immediately, using, 
if you wish, a Drawn Butter Sauce, 
but it is unnecessary. (See Beurre a. 
la Maltre d'Hotel.) 

ASPARAGUS. 
Des Asperges. 

Asparagus is a vegetable of very 
delicate flavor, and is much sought 
after and highly esteemed by epi- 
cures. It is a dainty accompaniment 
to the most elegant feast. 

Boiled Asparagus. 

Asperges en Branches. 
1 Can of Asparagus or 2 Bunclies of Fresh 

Asparagus. 
% Pint of Hollandalse or 1 Gill of Drawn 
Butter Sauce. 
When it is possible to get fresh 
asparagus, carefully wash it in cold 
water, and cut off the tough white 
ends. Scrape the white part well, 
and throw it into cold water, to soak 
for half an hour. Then tie it in, 



small bundles, and put it in a sauce- 
pan lined with porcelain. Pour over 
boiling water, and let it cook for 
twenty minutes. Add a teaspoonful 
of salt and cook ten minutes longer. 
Take the asparagus up nicely. Drajn 
off all water. Lay on a folded nap- 
kin, and serve with a Drawn Butter 
Sauce. (See recipe.) Asparagus is 
generally bought in New Orleans in 
cans, being very nicely prepared. It 
requires simply to be set on the stoye 
and allowed to heat, as it is already 
cooked. Take out of the can by 
turning it downward in a dish, let- 
ting the aspai-agus slide gently out. 
Drain off all water, and place on a 
folded napkin, and serve with a 
Drawn Butter Sauce. (See recipe.) 

Asparagus Vinaigrette Sauce. 

Pointe d' Asperges a. la Sauce Vinai- 
grette. 

1 Can of Asparagiis. Vi Pint oi! Vinaigrette 
Sauce. 
Prepare the asparagus as in the 
above recipe. Drain and set to cool. 
Serve with a half pint of Vinaigrette 
Sauce. (See recipe.) 

Asparagus Tips With Green Peas. 

Pointes d'Asperges aux Petit Pois. 

1 Can of Asparagus or 2 Bunches of Fl'esh 

Asparagus. 
1 Can of Green Peas or 1 Pint of Fresb 

Green Peas. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 6 Tablespoonfuls 
of Cream Sauce. 
6 or S Buttered Croutons. 
Cut the tender parts of the as- 
paragus into pieces of about one inch 
in length. , Take the asparagus wa- 
ter, in which they were put up,, and 
set on the stove to heat, and add the 
canned green peas to tlie fresh peas 
that have already been boiled. Throw 
in the asparagus tips, and add water 
sufficient to cover. Boil rapidly for 
ten minutes; then drain very thor- 
oughly and return to the flre, having 
added one tablespoonful of butter, 
salt, pepper and six tablespoonfuls 
of Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Stir 
carefully, so that you may not break 
the tips and serve on neat Crofltons 
of buttered toast, or place in a dish 
and bring piping hot to the table as 
an entrg. The coarse ends of the as- 
paragus must not be thrown away, 
but may be utilized In a very nice 
Cream of Asparagus Soup. (See re- 
cipe.) 

BBAIVS. ^ 

Des Haricots. 

Beans, whether white or red, are 
among the most nutritious of food 
substances. In all the ancient homes 
of New Orleans, and in the colleges 
and convents, where large numbers 
of children are sent to be reared to 
be strong and useful men and women, 
several times a week there appear 



190 



on the table either the nicely cooked 
dish of Red Beans, which are eaten 
with rice, or the equally wholesome 
White Beans a. la Crfeme, or Red or 
White Beans boiled with a piece of 
salt pork or ham. String Beans a la 
Sauce de Maitre d'Hotel, or boiled 
with a piece of salt pork or or ham, 
are also classed among the especial- 
ly nutritious beans. The Creoles hold 
that the boys and girls who are 
raised on beans and rice and beef 
will be among the strongest and 
sturdiest of people. 

String Beans W^ith Batter Sauce. 

Haricots "Verts k la Maitre d'Hotel. 

2 Quarts of Fresb, Tender String Beans. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Pepper 
to Taste. 

Always select tender beans. Break 
the blossom end, and pull it back- 
ward, removing the string. Then be 
careful to pare the thin strip from the 
other end of the bean pod. It is only 
in this way that you will be sure that 
every inch of string is removed. Split 
the larger beans down the pod, and 
let the younger and more tender re- 
main whole. Wash them in clear, 
cold water, letting them stand about 
ten minutes. Then drain off the wa- 
ter, put the beans into a saucepan, 
cover well with boiling water, and 
let them boil for forty minutes or an 
hour, according to the tenderness of 
the beans. Just before serving drain 
off water, put a large tablespoonful 
of butter into the beans, mix well, 
sat and pepper to taste, and serve 
hot. 

String Beans frith Cream Sauce* 

Haricots Verts a, la CrSme. 

2 Quarts of Fresh String Beans. 1 Table- 
spoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. ^ Cup of Fresh 
Milk or Cream. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

String and wash the beans accord- 
ing to the first recipe. Place in a 
saucepan and cover with boiling wa- 
ter. Let them boil for an hour. Then 
drain off the water. Take a table- 
spoonful of butter and one of flour, 
and blend well. Add a half cup of 
fresh milk or cream, or one-half pint 
of the water in which the beans have 
been boiled. Season nicely with salt 
and pepper. Stir in the beans; set 
them back on. the stove for several 
minutes; let them simmer gently. 
Season again with salt and pepper 
to taste, and serve hot. The flour 
may be omitted, and, instead, dilute 
but do not boil after adding the eggs. 
the milk with the yolk of two eggs. 



String Beans, Brittany Style. 

Haricots Verts t la Bretonne. 

2 Quarts of Fresh String Eeans. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of 

Flour. 

1 Pint of Chicken Consomme or "Water. 

1 Medium-Sized Onion. 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Salt and Pepper 

to Taste. 

Take a medium-sized onion, peel 

and cut into small dice-shaped pieces. 

Put the onion in a saucepan with 

the butter and let it sautg to a gold- 

en brown. Add the flour gradually, 

blending well, a:nd moisten with the 

consommg or water. Let the mixture 

come to a boil and skim the broth; 

then add the string beans, which have 

already been boiled and drained. Let 

them simmer for ten minutes, adding 

in the meantime one, flnely-mlnced 

clove of garlic. After ten minutes, 

place the beans in a hot dish, sprinkle 

with chopped parsley and serve hot. 

String Beans & la Vinaigrette. 

Haricots Verts a, la Vinaigrette. 

2 Quarts of String Beans. 
A Sauce a la Vinaigrette. 
Boil the string beans according to 
recipe. (See recipe String Beans with 
Butter Sauce.) When done, drain and 
serve with a Vinaigrette Sauce. Gar- 
nish the dish with sliced lemon dip- 
ped in parsley, which has been 
chopped very flne, and small gherkins 
cut in fan shapea. 
\ 

String Beans & la Poulette. 

Haricots Verts a la Poulette. 

2 Quarts of String Beans. 

A Sauce a la Poulette, 

Boil the beans as in the recipe for 

String Beans with Drawn Butter 

Butter Sauce. Drain and serve with 

a Sauce a, la Poulette poured over. 

String Beans Boiled With Ham. 

Haricots Verts au Jambon. 

2 Quarts of String Beans. 

1 Pound of Lean Ham or Salt Pork. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Proceed to prepare the beans in 
exactly the same manner as men- 
tioned above. Throw them into cold 
water, and let them stand for about 
ten minutes. Have ready a large 
saucepan of boiling water in 
which you will have placed 
a pound of salt pork or ham, 
and allowed to boil for al- 
most an hour. Drain the beans and 
put them into this, and let them boil 
forty minutes or an hour longer. Sea- 
son with pepper only, and serve, 
placing the salt pork or ham in the 
center of the dish, and heaping the 
beans around. This is an excellent 
way of utilizing the ham bone which 
is left over from the boiled ham. 
The Creoles like the flavoring of ham 



191 



or salt pork in vegetables. A bit of 
fine herbs, nicely minced, and one on- 
ion, minced fine, greatly add to the 
flavor of this dish. 

String Beans Panaches. 

Haricots Verts Panach6s. 
1 Pint of String Beans. 
I Pint of Lima Beans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 
Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the string beans and out them 
Into pieces of about three-fourths of 
an inch in length; mix them with an 
equal quantity of boiled Lima beans 
(see recipe); put them in a saucepan 
with two tablespoonfuls of butter; 
let them saute for five minutes, and 
toss continually while cooking. Sea- 
son with salt and pepper to taste, 
place on a hot dish, sprinkle with 
finely-chopped parsley and serve hot. 

REID BEANS. 

Haricots Rouges. 

Red Beans are the favorite dish 
among Creole families, the great 
amount of sustenance to be found in 
this and the White Bean commending 
it especially as a food for growing 
children and adults who labor hard. 
The beautiful color and excellent fla- 
vor of the Red Bean has won for it 
a place among the most highly es- 
teemed legumes. 

Red Beans, Plain Boiled. 

Haricots Verts au Naturel. 

1 Pint of Dried Red Beans. 
% . spoonful of Lard or Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
This is an excellent way of prepar- 
ing red beans for Fridays and fast 
days. Soak the beans in cold water 
over night, or at least five or six 
hours, and drain off the water, and 
place them in a pot of cold water, 
using at least a quart of water to 
a pint of beans. Let them boil for 
at least an hour and a half or two 
hours, and then season nicely with 
salt and pepper. Add a half table- 
spoonful of lard or butter, let them 
cook for fifteen minutes more, and 
serve in their own juice. This dish 
Is excellent with boiled rice. 

Red Beans, Burgundy Style. 

Haricots Rouges a, la Bourguigpnne. 

1 Quart of Red Beans. 
1 Ounce of Butter. 1 Onion. 2 Cloves. 
1 Herb Bouquet. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
1 Glass of Claret Wine. 6 Small Glazed 
Onions. 
Pick and wash the beans and let 
them soak in cold water for six hours 
Drain thoroughly, and put in a suce- 
pan, with sufficient fresh cold water 
to cover. Add a tablespoonful of but- 
ter, and a medium-sized onion, with 
two cloves stuck in it. Boil for 



about twenty minutes, and then add 
a glass of Claret. Stir well, and 
let the beans cook for three-quar- 
ters of an hour longer, stirring fre- 
quently to keep from scorching. Then 
remove from the fire, take out the 
herb bouquet and onion, pour the 
beans into a hot dish, and decorate 
the edges with a half dozen small 
glazed onions. (See recipe.) Serve 
hot. 

Red Beans & la Conde 

Puree a, la Cond6 

See recipe under heading "Soups." 
'This is a most nutritious dish. 

Red Beans and Rice, 

Haricots Rouges au Riz. 

1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 

1 Pound of Ham or Salt Meat. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the beans and soak them over 
night, or, at least five or six hours, 
in fresh, cold water. When ready to 
cook, drain off this water and put 
the beans in a pot of cold water, cov- 
ering with at least two quarts, for 
beans must cook thoroughly. Let the 
water heat slowly. Then add the 
ham or salt pork, and the herbs and 
onion and carrot, minced fine. Boil 
the beans at least two, hours, or until 
tender enough to mash easily under 
pressure. When tender, remove from 
the pot, put the salt meat or ham 
on top of the dish, and serve hot as 
a vegetable, with boiled rice as an 
entrfie, with Veal Sautfi, Daube a, la 
Mode, Grillades k la Sauce, etc. 

Purge of Red Beans. 

Purge d'Haricots Rouges. 

1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

% Pound of Ham or Lean Salt Pork. 

% Pint of Creim or Milk. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Prepare the beans as in the preced- 
ing recipe if it is desired to make a 
purge (not a soup). Remove the 
beans from the fire as soon as they 
will mash very easily under pressure. 
Take out the bits of ham. Press the 
beans through a colander. Add a ta- 
blespoonful of butter as you return 
them to the pot in which they have 
been boiled, and a half pint of cream 
or milk, or sufficient according to 
quantity to make the pur6e of the 
consistency of thick starch or mashed 
potatoes. Season with salt and pep- 
per, and serve. Thus prepared, red 
beans may be eaten by the most deli- 
cate invalid with excellent results as 
to recuperation. 



192 



Bacon and Bean^ H la Creole. 

Haricots au Petit Sal6 a, la Creole. 

1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 1 Pound Bacon. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Soak the beans' over night. Drain 
off all water. Place in a pot and 
cover "well with cold water, in the 
proportions already mentioned. Add 
the bacon, leaving- it in a single 
square piece. When both have boiled 
about two hours, season well with 
pepper and a little salt, if necessary, 
and place the bacon in the center of 
a baking- dish. Drain the beans and 
put them around the bacon. Fill the 
pan to the top with liquor in which 
the beans have been boiled, and bake 
one hour and a half, or until the liq- 
uor is nearly all absorbed. Then 
serve hot. This is a favorite dish 
with the little Creole children, and, is 
most wholesome and palatabe. White 
or fed beans may be cooked in this 
fashion. 

Bean Polenta. 
Polente d'Haricots. 

2 Cups of Dried Beans. 

1 Tatlespoonful of Molasses. ^ TalJlespoonful' 

of Mustard. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoontul 

of Vinegar. 
Juice of 1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Use either white or red beans. 
Wash two cupfuls of dried beans, 
having previously soaked them over 
night. Pour off the water. Put the 
beans in the stewpan and cover with 
fresh cold water, and cook the beans 
until tender. Pour into a colander, 
and press the beans through. Put 
this pulp into the stewpan, and add 
one tablespoonful of ready-made 
mustard, one tablespoonful of mo- 
lasses, one of butter, one of vine- 
gar, the juice bi an onion, and salt 
and pepper to taste. Serve very hot, 
as a vegetable. 

WHITE BEANS. 

Des Haricots Blancs. 

White Beans may be prepared in 
exactly the same manner as red 
beans, using any of the above re- 
cipes. By many the white bean is 
preferred as the more delicate bean. 

Wlilte Beans it la Maltre d'Hotel. 

Haricots Blancs S. la Maitre d'Hotel. 
1 Quart of -Wblte Beans. 

2 Sprigs of Minced Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 
Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. 

Prepare the' white beans and cook 
in exactly the same manner as red 
beans a la Maltre d'Hotel. Before 
adding the butter, however, add a 
minced sprig of thyme, bay leaf and 
parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. 
Let them simmer for a few minutes 
on the fire, and then take oft and add 
the juice of a lemon. 



DRIED PEAS. 

Des Pois Sees. 

All dried peas, whether the Black- 
eyed Peas, Lady Peas, etc., may be 
cooked according to any of the above 
recipes. Be careful to soak them 
over night in cold water, or at least 
six hours from the early morning, be- 
fore beginning to cook. 

COAVPEAS. 

Pois Congris. 

These peas are utilized by the Cre- 
oles in making that famous dish, 
"Jambalaya au Congri." (See recipe 
under heading "Louisiana Rice.') On 
Fridays the rice and peas, which are 
always boiled separately, must not be 
cooked with meat, if this day is kept 
as a fast day. The pea)s and rice are 
mixed well together and are eaten 
■with butter. 

BUTTERBEANS. 

FSves Plates. 

1 Pint of Butterbeans. 2 Pints of -Water. 

J Tablespoonful (heaping) of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The butterbean is one of the most 
recherche and delicate of our 
Louisiana vegetables. Soak the but- 
terbeans for about a half hour in 
water. Pour off this cold fresh wa- 
ter, and then put them in a porce- 
lain lined saucepan, or one of agate, 
and cover with two pints of water. 
Let them boil well for about an hour, 
or less, if they are very tender. As 
soon as they crush easily under pres- 
sure, take off the fire, drain off water, 
season well with salt and pepper. 
Butter well with a heaping table- 
spoonfu\ of butter, add a teaspoonful 
of parsley, minced very fine, and 
serve hot. This is a delicious and 
welcome dish at the most elegant 
tables. Butterbeans are raised so 
extensively in Louisiana that they 
&.re very cheap and may always grace 
the poor mans table as well as the 
rich. 

LIMA BEANS. 

Haricots k Rames. 

1 Pint of Lima Beans. 3 Pints of Water. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Pint of Cream. 

Salt and -Pepper to Taste. 

The younger the Lima beans the 
better . It is a great mistake to al- 
low the beans to grow large and 
hard. Sort the beans as you shell 
them, and save the very large ones 
for a purge. Soak the small ones over 
night. Drain the water wh^en about 
to cook, and put in a porcelain or 
agate saucepan, and cover with three 
pints of boiling water. Boil them 
until very tender, which will require 
at least two hours. After they have 
boiled one hour, add a teaspoonful of 



193 



salt, or salt to taste. When done, 
drain the beans and return to the 
saucepan. Add a half pint of cream 
or milk, a tablespoonful of flour, 
blended well with butter, salt and 
pepper to taste, a sprig each of thyme 
and parsley and bay leaf minced very 
fine. Let all simmer for ten min- 
utes, and" tTien serve hot. Or the 
beans may be served without the 
cream, simply buttering well and ad- 
ding salt and pepper to taste. All 
shelled beans, such as the Kidney and 
the small French bean, may be cooked 
in the same way. The larger Lima 
Beans may be saved, and will serve 
some day during the week for a pu- 
rge. 

Bean Croquettes, 
Haricots en Croquettes. 

1 Pint of Beans. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Gayeune to Taste. 

Any remains of left-over beans 
may be nicely utilized in this way. 
Mash the beans well by pressing 
through a colander. Then add salt 
and pepper to taste, a teaspoonful of 
vinegar, and a tablespoonful of melt- 
ed butter. Form Into small bou- 
lettes, or balls, and dip in a raw egg, 
well beaten, and then roll in the 
bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat, 
and serve hot. 

BBBTS. 
Des Betteraves. 

We have in New Orleans two crops 
of beets, the winter beet and the 
summer beet. Summer beets require 
less time to boil than the winter. 
Good judgment must always be the 
guide. 

Beets may be kept several days 
when boiled, and make a beautiful . 
garnish. 

The small winter beets may be 
served aux Beurre Maitre dHotel, or 
they may be sauted in butter or 
served Sautfies a. la Cr§me or a. la 
Bechamel. Beet roots are generally 
served as a salad or garnish. Always 
cut off and save the green tops of 
the beets. These may be boiled with 
salt meat, or made into a pur§e, or 
used in the famous Creole Gumbo aux 
Herbes. 

Boiled Beets. 

Betteraves Bouillies. 

6 Beet Roots. 2 Quarts of Water. 

A Plain French Dressing (if seryed as a salad). 

Cut off the beet tops and sa.ve for 
boiling or purfie or gumbo. Soak the 
beets in cold fresh water, and wash 
well, taking off every particle of 
earth that may adhere. Wash them 
carefully, without scraping them. If 
the beet is very tender. It will cook 
in an hour. Older beets require all 
the way from three to four hours, 
according to size. If the beet is wil- 
ted or tough, no amount of boiling 
will ever make it perfectly tender. 



If you break the skins of the beets 
before cooking, the flavor will be lost, 
a-s well as the color, when boiled. 
Put the beets into a pot of cold wa- 
ter, covering well, and boil until 
tender. Then set them to cool. 

When cold, slice nicely and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper to 
taste, and add vinegar, and set aside 
for an hour, for the vinegar to pene- 
trate thoroughly. Serve as a salad. 

Buttered Beets. 

Betteraves au Beurre. 

6 Beet Boots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

The small winter beets may be 
served aux Beurre Maitre d'Hotel, 
by cooking very tender and then slic- 
ing nicely, and pouring over them a 
tablespoonful of melted butter, and 
sprinkling nicely with salt and pep- 
per. Vinegar may also be added at 
the table, according to the taste. 

Beet Roots SautSd In Butter. 

Betteraves Sautges au Beurre. 

6 Beets. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
A Pinch of Black Pepper. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. 
Boil the beet roots as in recipe for 
Boiled Beets. (See recipe.) When 
cooked, peel neatly and cut up into 
dice-shaped pieces. Put them in a 
saucepan with a tablespoonful of 
butter, season with a little pinch of 
black pepper and salt to taste, and 
sprinkle the powdered sugar over 
them. Let them cook for five min- 
utes, tossing them lightly and almost 
constantly. Send to the table hot as 
a vegetable. 

Beet Roots Saute & la Bechamel on 
a la CrCme. 

Betteraves Sautfies a, la Bechamel ou 
a, la CrSme. 
6 Beet Roots. 1 Ounce of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
% Pint of Bechamel or Cream Sauce. 
Prepare the beets exactly as in the 
preceding recipe, and about five min- 
utes before serving add half a pint 
of hot Bechamel or Cream Sauce. 
Serve as a vegetable. 

Borecole or Curled Kale. 

Chou Vert. 

This is a vegetable cultivated by 
Louisiana truck farmers principally 
for family use. It requires frost to 
make it good for the table. It is 
treated and served in the same man- 
ner as cabbage; all recipes for cook- 
ing cabbage may, therefore, be used 
in preparing Chou Vert. 

BROCCOLI. 

Chou Broccoli. 
Broccoli is a vegetable of the same 
order as the Cauliflower, and resem- 
bles it very much, only the plant does 



194 



not form such compact heads, and is 
not quite so white, being of a green- 
ish cast. Such fine Cauliflower is 
raised in and around New Orleans 
that very little Broccoli is planted. 
Further north than New Orleans, 
however, where Cauliflower does not 
succeed, it is substituted for it, as 
the hardier plant. It thrives easily, 
and in season is always to be found 
In the New Orleans market, selling 
much cheaper than Cauliflower, and 
is used very frequently as a substi- 
tute. It is prepared and served in 
all ways in which Cauliflower is 
served. (See recipes for Cauliflower.) 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Choux de Bruxelles. 

1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts, 

% Gallon of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. 

Pick the sprouts carefully, reject- 
ing all loose, dead leaves, and then 
throw the sprouts into cold fresh wa- 
ter, so that any lurking insects may 
be drawn out. Wash and pick care- 
fully after the sprouts have remained' 
about twenty minutes in the water. 
Then put them into half a galon of 
boiling water, and add immediately 
a tablespoonful of salt and a quarter 
of a spoon of bicarbonate of soda 
(cooking soda). Let the sprouts boil 
(uncovered) for twenty minutes, or 
just long enough to make them ten- 
der all through. By no means must 
they be soft, or go to pieces. Boil 
rapidly. Then drain in a colander, 
season well with pepper and salt, 
and serve in a heated dish with a 
Drawn Butter Sauce poured over. 
(See sauces.) 

Brussels Spronts SautCd in Butter. 

Choux de Bruxelles Sautgs au 

Beurre. 

1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. , 

1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
Salt and Pepppr to Taste, 

Prepare the Brussels Sprouts care- 
fully as in the preceding recipe. Af- 
ter washing, drain thoroughly and 
boil them in salted water for ten 
minutes. Take out of the hot wa- 
ter, drain and put Into cold water. 
Drain again and put them in a sauce- 
pan, with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Season according to taste with 
salt and pepper, and add a teaspoon- 
ful of chopped parsley. Let them 
■ cook slightly for ten minutes more, 
or less if very tender, and serve hot. 

Brussels Sprouts ft la Cr&me. 

Choux de Brussels a la Cr&me. 

1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 
H Cupful of Cream or Milk. 

A Pinch of Nutmeg. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Prepare and boil the Brussels 
Sprouts as in the preceding recipe. 



Drain thoroughly, and put in a sauce- 
pan, with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, and season with salt and pepper 
to taste, and a pinch of nutmeg. Add 
a half cup of cream or milk, and toss 
lightly for five or ten minutos, but 
do not let them boil. Place on a 
'hot dish, garnish nicely and serve 
hot. 

cabbage;. 

Du Chou. 

Cabbage is said to be the most nu- 
tritious of all vegetables. It en- 
ters largely Into the daily life of 
the Creoles, not only in the boiled 
and creamed and stuffed states, but 
also in that most delightful Creole 
dish. Gumbo Choux. In many a Cre- 
ole family of limited means the good 
dish -of Gumbo Choux and rice, and a 
dish of Grillades, make not only a 
most appetizing and nutritious, but a 
most hearty meal. We have two 
crops of cabbage in New Orleans, the 
summer and winter. It is said that 
when cabbage is cooking the odor 
fills the house. But the Creoles over- 
come this by using a very large pot 
when boiling cabbage, dropping in a 
bit of charcoal, and not filling it 
too near the brim, as the old darkles 
say it is the boiling water that forms 
into steam and causes the odor. 
Again, they tie a piece of bread in a 
very fine and thin white piece of 
cloth. After it has been in the pot 
about twenty minutes remove it 
and burn, for the odor of the cabbage 
has clung to it. Repeat the process 
with a fresh piece of cloth and bread 
for about three-quarters of an hour. 

Boiled Cabbage. 

Chou Bouilli. 

A Fine Head of Green and White Cabbage. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Red Pepper Pod. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. 
For boiling, select a fine white 
head in which the green and white 
are prettily mingled. The white 
makes the prettiest dish. Remove 
all the outside leaves and reject them. 
Then cut the cabbage head into quar- 
ters, and let it soak in cold water 
for about an hour. Then drain well, 
and pull off each leaf separately to 
discover any lurking insects, and 
throw each leaf into a pan of fresh 
water. Drain thoroughly, and put 
into a large pot of boiling water 
with a pound of ham or salt pork, and 
let it cook for an hour or more, un- 
til tender. After it has been in the 
'water ten minutes, add a teaspoonful 
of salt and a red pepper pod, cut In 
two. Add a teaspoonful of Chili 
pepper. Cover the cabbage and boil 
for one hour, if the cabbage is very 
young and tender; boil for two hours 
or more if not. When done, drain 
well of all water, and place in a dish 
with the salt meat or ham on ton- 



195 



and serve hot. Cabbage Is always 
eaten with a Uttle vinegar. The 
Creoles serve boiled cabbage with 
the pepper vinegar Which they put 
up themselves. 

Cabbage and Corned Beef. 

Chou et Boeuf au Mi-sel. 

1 Fine Head of CaTjbage. 1 Pound of Corn Beef. 

1 Ked Pepper Pod. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. 
To boil corned beef and cabbage, 
wash the meat in cold water and put 
it in a large kettle; cover with cold 
water. Let it simmer gently for 
two hours. Then add the cabbage, 
which you will have prepared ac- 
cording to directions in the above 
recipe, and let all boil for two hours 
longer. When done, put the cabbage 
In a dish, with the meat in the cen- 
ter, and serve with tomato catsup or 
horseradish or mustard sauce. The 
cabbage may be put in the pot after 
having been cut in four quarters and 
soalced, but it is always safer to pick 
over each leaf, for fear of insects. 

Stevred Cabbage. 

Chou EtoufES. 

1 Head of Cabbage. 1 Pound Ham or Salt Pork. 
Salt to Taste. Pinch of Red Pepper Pod. 

1 Tablespoonful of X^ard. 
Parboil the cabbage after cutting 
Into quarters. Let it boil well about 
half an hour. Then take it out of 
the water and drain nicely, separat- 
ing the leaves down to the heart as 
it cools. Cut the ham into pieces of 
about two inches long. Take a ta- 
blespoonful of lard, and put in a 
stewing pan, which must be very 
deep, or a pot. Put into this the 
ham or salt meat, and let it fry well. 
Add two chaurice, or sausage. As 
these brown well, moisten with half 
a cup of boiling water, and let sim- 
mer gently for fifteen minutes. When 
well browned, add, little by little, 
the cabbage, stirring it well, and let 
it simmer gently for an hour 
and a half or longer, cov- 
ering well, and stirring frequently 
to prevent burning. Add an inch of 
red pepper pod, cut fine, and salt to 
taste if you use ham, and none at 
all if you use salt meat. Serve hot. 

Cabbage Stewed With Sausage. 

Saucissons aux Choux. 

2 Dozen Fine Sansage. (Chaurice Preferred.) 

1 Head of Cabbage. 
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. Salt to Taste. 
1 Inch of Red 'Pepper Pod. 
1 Pound Fresh Pork. 
This is a famous Creole dish, for 
many generations in vogue in New 
Orleans, and dearly loved by the lit- 
tle Creole children. Wash the cab- 
bage well, after having out it into 
quarters and allowed it to soak half 
an hour. Cut the cabbage into shreda 
of about one inch in width and five 
In length, according to the leaf. Then 
•cald the cabbage with boiling wa- 



ter for about fifteen minutes. Throw 
off this water, and cover it again 
with boiling water, and let it boll 
for twenty minutes. In the mean- 
while prick each sausage in several 
places, and cut the meat into pieces 
of about two inches in length and 
one in thickness; put the lard in the 
frying pan and fry the sausage and 
meat until they are about half done; 
then drain the cabbage and turn into 
the sausage and meat and the fat 
drippings. Cover and stew gently 
where it will not scorch, for at least 
forty minutes; season with salt, and 
add, immediately after turning in 
the cabbage, an inch of red pepjper 
pod. Let all simmer till the cabbage 
is quite done, and then put in a dish 
with the sausage and meat piled in 
the center, and the cabbage heaped 
around as a border. 

Creamed Cabbage. 

Chou t la CrSme. 
1 Head of Tender White Cabbage. 
A Cream Sauce. 
Take a fine delicate head of white 
cabbage; cut it in quarters and soak 
in cold water for an hour. Then re- 
move all the hard parts, and cut the 
remainder into fine shreds. Put it 
into the stewing pan and pour over 
boiling water enough to cover; sea- 
son with salt and pepper; let it boil 
at least thirty minutes, and then 
drain in a colander. Have ready a 
heated dish; turn the cabbage into 
this and pour over a Cream Sauce. 
(See recipe.) 

Cabbage Sauted With Cream. 

Chou SautS a. la CrSme. 

A Fine Head of White Cabbage. 
1 'Cuptul of Cream or Milk. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful 
of Flour. 
A Pinch of Black Pepper. Salt to Tasto. 
Prepare the cabbage according to 
•recipe. Blanch in hot water for ten 
"minutes, then ilrain and throw into 
fcold water. Drain again, and chop 
Hip the cabbage and put into a sauce- 
!pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter; add the salt to taste, and the 
black pepper. Take a tablespoonful 
of flour and blend well with a little 
milk, and then mix well with a cup 
of cream or milk. Add this to the 
cabbage and mix well, and let all 
teook for three-quarters of an hour 
or an hour, till done; arrange neatly 
on a hot dish and serve. 

Stuffed Cabbage 

Chou Farci. ' 

1 Head of Fine White Cabbage. 
1 Dozen Fine Chaurice. 2 Onions. 1 Tomato. 

1 Clove of Garlic. « 

1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Spoonful of Butter. 

Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Select a fine head of cabbage. Take 

away the .big, green leaves, and se- 



196 



lect about twelve of the finest and 
nicest of the large white leaves. Put 
them in cold water for about an hour; 
then parboil for about twenty min- 
utes in boiling water. In the mean- 
time, prepare a stuffing with a doz- 
en fine chaurice, one onion (chopped 
fine), a tablespoonful of butter and 
a tomato. Mince the sausage meat 
very fine after taking out of the cas- 
es, and also the onion and tomato. 
Mince, fine one sprig each of thyme, 
parsley and bay leaf; add one square 
inch of finely-minced ham. Put the 
butter in the frying pan, and as it 
browns add the onions; let these 
brown, and add the sausage meat 
and the ham. Mince four or five of 
the tender white leaves of the cab- 
bage very fine and add; then add the 
minced clove of garlic and onion; 
let these brown for five minutes, and 
then let all simmer for about ten 
minutes. Take out, and take each 
leaf by leaf of the cabbage and drain 
dry; lay open on the table and put 
In each leaf equal quantities of the 
stuffing; fold over and close nicely. 
Then take slender strips of bacon 
and lay at the bottom of a wide and 
deep frying pan; place the stuffed 
leaves on top of these, and place 
other strips of bacon on top; cover 
and let thejn cook for a half hour, 
or until the cabbage leaves are very 
tender. Take out of the pan and lay 
in a heated dish and serve very hot. 
The Creoles also have a way of mak- 
ing a nice sauce to serve with these. 
After laying the stuffed cabbage 
leaves in the frying pan, add one 
square inch of ham, minced very fine; 
two carrots, sliced fine; one on- 
ion, chopped very fine, and 
sprigs of thyme, parsley and bay leaf. 
Moisten this with a cup of good bouil- 
lon or water, a gill of White Wine, 
and cover the pan and allow all to 
simmer well with the cabbage. At 
the moment of serving, place the 
cabbage in a heated dish and allow 
the sauce to reduce for five minutes 
longer; then strain it through a 
fine sieve and pour over each stuffed 
leaf of cabbage as It is served. The 
stuffed cabbage leaves may also be 
thrown into boiling water for thirty 
minutes, after being tied together 
well, and served with a. Cream Sauce. 
(See recipe.) 

Stuffed Cabbage AVith Cream Sauce. 

Chou Parci &, la CrSTne. 

1 Fine Head Cabbage. 1 Dozen Fine Cliaurice. 

1 Onion. 

3 Sprigs each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. 

1 Square inch of Ham. 

1 Inch of a Red Pepper Pod. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Select a fine tender head of cab- 
bage. Pick off the outer leaves, and 
let it soak in cold fresh water for 
an hour. Then throw the whole head 
into a pot of boiling water for about 



three-quarters of an hour. In the 
meantime make a stuffing by talcing 
one dozen fine Chaurice, or sausage- 
meat, one oilion, and three sprigs 
each of thyme and parsley, and one 
bay leaf. Mince the herbs and on- 
ion very fine, and add to them one 
square inch of finely minced ham. 
Chop the sausage meat over, and 
mingle this with the ham and herbs, 
and then add the finely minced on- 
ion and one clove of finely minced 
garlic. Mix these well together. 
Season to taste. Take the cabbage 
'out of the water, and opeii carefully 
to the very heart, and put in a tea- 
spoonful of the dressing. Fold over 
this two or three leaves, and then 
insert the mixture in between anoth- 
er layer of leaves, and so continue 
until each layer of leaves has been 
nicely stuffed. Press all firmly to- 
gether, and then tie in the large 
leaves, which you will have boiled 
with the cabbage head. Put it into 
the kettle of boiling -water, and add 
a little salt and two inches of a red 
pepper pod, thyme, parsley and bay 
leaf. Let it boil for two hours. When 
done carefully untie the larger leaves 
in which you have cooked the cab- 
bage, and lay the head in a well- 
■heated dish. Pour over all a Cream 
Sauce, and serve hot. (See Cream 
Sauce.) 

SAUERKRAUT. 

Chou Groflte. 

1 Fine Head of Cabbage. 1 Pint of Vinegar, 
1 Bottle of White Wine. 

1 Glass of Brandy or Whisky. 
Salt in Sufficient Quantity to Allow 3 Ounces 

for each Layer of Cabbage, 

The French learned how to eat 
Sauerkraut from the Germans, but 
the ancient French ouisiniSres held 
that the French adaptation, Chou- 
Croilte, w^as a very poor way indeed 
of expressing what the German term 
Sauerkraut intends to convey. The 
Creoles, while not overfond of Sauer- 
kraut, nevertheless know how to 
make it, and occasionally cook it af- 
ter ol French methods. 

To prepare Chou-Crofite, take a 
large head of cabbage, and take off 
the green leaves. Shred the cabbage 
into fine pieces, of about five inches 
long and one wide. Then get an 
earthern vessel or a keg, an-d line 
the bottom and sides with the green 
leaves of the cabbage Put in a layer 
of salt, of about three ounces, and 
lay over this a layer of cabbage 
leaves of about three inches in thick- 
ness. Cover again with a layer of 
salt, and pound down well, and so 
continue until you have used up the 
cabbage. Pour over this sufficient 
vinegar to cover, and also, if pos- 
sible, a bottle of White Wine and a 
glass of brandy or whisky. Take 
some boards or the cover of the keg 
and line them with cabbage leaves, 



197 



and cover the keg closely. Put the 
cover on the keg, or the board over 
the bowl, Tjrith a fifteen-pound weight 
on top. Set it in a place of even 
moderate temperature. Bore a hole 
in the bottom of the keg, and insert 
a piece of wood. When the cabbage 
begins to ferment, take the piece of 
wood out, and let the liquor from the 
fermentation flow through this canal. 
This will be in about four or flvo 
days. After this first operation open 
the keg and renew the vinegar and 
wine, skimming the fermentation 
from the top, and so continue until 
the cabbage is clear and without 
odor. The Chou-Croute, should be 
placed in a cool place. When ready 
to use, take it out and let it soak 
for two or three hours in cool fresh 
water, and when quite fresh-looking 
put it into a saucepan and cook 
as you would cabbage, with salt 
meat, pork, sausage or corned beef. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Choux-Fleurs. 

Cauliflower may be either boiled 
and served with various sauces or 
made into that delightful dish, "Cau- 
liflower au Gratin." 

Boiled Cauliflovrer, Crenm Sauce. 

Choux-Pleurs a, la Crfime. 

2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
A Cream S^auce. 2 Lemons Gut in Quarters. 
To boil the cauliflower, pick off the 
outer leaves, leaving only the one 
delicate row near the bottom of the 
flowerets!. Cut the stem close to the 
flowerets. Wash the cauliflower 
well in cold fresh water, and then 
soak, with the head downwards, 
about twenty minutes, to drain off 
all possible insects. Have ready a 
pot of boiliag water. Take a nice, 
clean piece of cheesecloth, and tie 
the cauliflower in it, to prevent 
breaking while boiling. Put the cauli- 
flower in the kettle of boiling wa- 
ter, with the stem downwards. Add 
a teaspoonful of salt, and cover the 
kettle. Let the cauliflower boil from 
thirty to forty minutes, according to 
size, or until the vegetable. is ten- 
der. When cooked, lift it gently out 
by the cheesecloth, untie and set it 
In a dish, stem downward. Pour 
over it a Cream Sauce and serve hot. 
Place on each plate, when serving, 
a quarter of a lemon, nicely cut. 

CanliflOTver BoUea Wltli Butter. 

Chou-Fleur Bouilli au Beurre. 
2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
A Tablcspoonful of Salt. A Pinch of Pepper. 
1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. 
Prepare the cauliflower as in re- 
cipe Boiled Cauliflower, Cream Sauce. 
After picking and washing thorough- 



ly put in a saucepan and cover with 
cold water. Add the salt and pep- 
per and a tablespoonful of butter. 
Let it cook for a half hour and then 
take the cauliflower from the pan and 
drain through a colander. Place 
them on a dish and add a sauce made 
of one tablespoonful of butter, one 
of vinegar and a dash of salt and 
pepper, all mixed thoroughly, and 
serve hot. 

Cauliflower With "Wliite Sauce. 

Choux-Fleurs a la Sauce Blanche ou 
au Jus. 

1 Large or 2 Small CaullflOTvers. 

A Teaspoonful of Salt. 
A White Sauce or Sauce AUemande. 
Separate the cauliflower, piece by 
piece, having taken off the outer 
leaves and cut off the rough stalk. 
Place them in a pot of boiling wa- 
ter, with a teaspoonful of salt, and 
let them boil rapidly for about half 
an hour, till tbe stalks are tender. 
When done, take them out gently 
with a skimmer, that you may not 
Ijreak them. Place in a bowl and pour 
over a Sauce Blanche or Sauce Al- 
lemande. 

Cauliflower prepared in this man- 
ner may be served with a HoUan- 
daise Sauce. 

I 
Cauliflower & la Vlnaii^ette. 

Choux-Fleurs a, la Vinaigrette. 

1 Large or 2 Mediim-Sized CanUflowers. 
1 Tatlespoonful of Vinegar. 
Sal', and Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the cauliflower as above, and 
•serve "a la Vinaigrette," that is, 
with vinegar, pepper and salt. This 
is a common and pleasant way that 
the Creoles have of serving the veg- 
etable. 

CanlifloweF a la Mattre d'Hotel. 

Choux-Pleurs a la Maltre d'Hotel. 

1 Large or 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. 
■ 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
A Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. 
Boil the cauliflower whole, as in 
the first recipe. Bring them to the 
table whole, like blooming flower- 
ets, in a dish nicely garnished, and 
ser\'e with a Sauce a la Maltre d'Ho- 
tel and lemon cut in quarters. 

Culiflower au Gratin. 

Choux-Fleurs au Gratin. 

1 Ord'nary-Si.zcd Head of Cauliflower. 

1 Pint of Cream. 

|^ Pint of Grated Parmesan and Gruyere 

Cheese, Mixed. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of 

Flour. 

Boil the cauliflower as in the first 

recipe. When boiled, take it off the 

Are and take out of the cheese- 



198 



cloth in which it was enveloped. Let 
It cool. Put a tablespoonful of but- 
ter into the frying: pan, and as It 
melts add a tablespoonful of flour. 
Let these .blend nicely, without 
browning, and add Immediately half 
a pint of milk and half a pint of 
grated Parmesan or Gruyfire cheese. 
Mix this thoroughly in the sauce, and 
let it cook well for about ten min- 
utes. Put the cauliflower in a pan, 
or the dish in which it is to be 
served, having greased the dish with 
butter. Take some grated cheese, 
sprinkle well over the cauliflower, 
and then cover the cauliflower with 
the sauce, forcing it down into every 
nook and crevice. When these crev- 
ices are full, and the cauliflower 
seems to have absorbed all, wipe the 
edges and all around the dish with 
a napkin. Then add grated bread 
crumbs, sprinkling them over the 
cauliflower; dot it in about a dozen 
places with little bits of butter. Set 
It in the oven, let it brown, and serve 
hot. Let it bake about twenty min- 
utes, or until brown. 

CARROTS. 

Des Garottes. 

Carrots are among the most im- 
portant of the vegetables used in 
seasoning. They enter largely Into 
the making of soups, daubes, stews, 
etc., giving to all a delightful flavor, 
which no other vegetable can. Eaten 
"au jus" or in their natural state, 
they may be stewed, fried or smoth- 
ered. Any one of these dishes makes 
a delightful and appetizing entrge. 

Stewed Carrots. 

Garottes S. la Cr6me. 

i Carrots of Good Size. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Floor, 

% Pint of Milk. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Scrape the carrots and throw them 
Into cold water for about a quarter 
of an hour. Then put them In a 
saucepan, and cover with boiling wa- 
ter. Add the salt, and let them cook 
for an hour and a half, boiling stead- 
ily. After this time expires, take 
them out and drain off all water. 
Then cut neatly into one-half Inch 
dice pieces, or slice thin. Put a ta- 
blespoonful of butter in the frying 
pan, and add the flour, blending well, 
but without browning. Then add the 
milk, and let it simmer to a rich 
cream sauce. Add the carrots to this, 
and let them siminer gently for about 
twenty minutes. Then add a little 
chopped parsleir and sugar, and serve 
hot. 



Carrots ft la Mattre d'Hotel. 

Garottes a. la Maitre d'Hotel. 

i Good-Sized Carrots. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. 

1 Bay Leaf. 

Salt and Pepper. 

Scrape the carrots and boil them 
at the same time that you are mak- 
ing your soup, or bouillon, leaving 
them whole. When done and ready 
to serve, skim out of the soup, and 
place In a dish. Cut them Into pieces, 
more or less large, and then place 
them in a frying pan with a table- 
spoonful of butter, minced parsley, 
thyme, bay leaf. Add salt and pep- 
per to taste, and when they have 
cooked for about ten or fifteen min- 
utes pour over a Sauce t la Maitre 
d'Hotel, and serve hot. The carrots 
may also be simply boiled, seasoned, 
and served with a Drawn Butter 
Sauce. 

Carrots & la Ijyonnalse. 

Garottes a. la Lyonnalse. 

3 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Onion, Minced Very Fine. 
Salt, Pepper, Thyme and Bay Leaf. 

Boil the carrots according to re- 
cipe given above, and then cut into 
thin siloes. Fry an onion in butter, 
add the carrots. Sprinkle well with 
salt and pepper, and add minced 
thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Fry ten 
minutes, and serve hot. 

Carrots SautSs a la Criole. 

Garottes Sautfees a, la Creole. 

9 Nice Tender Carrots. 1 Tomato. 
1 Square Inch Ham. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

6 Fine Ghaurlce or Sausages. 

3 Shallots. 1 Onion. -^ Pint of Bouillon. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

1 Gill White Wine. 

Thyme, Parsley, Bay IJeaf. % CIOTe Garlic. 

Boil the carrots for one hour and 
a half. Then cut Into dice or nice 
slices. Put the butter in the sauce- 
pan, and add the onions, minced very 
fine, and the shallots, greens and 
whites. Let these brown for a few 
minutes, and then add the ha,lf square 
Inch of ham and three Ghaurlce whole. 
Let these simmer for three minutes, 
and add the minced herbs. Then add 
the tomato and its Juice, mincing it 
Well. Let all simmer for three min- 
utes more, till the tomato has 
browned, and add a half pint of 
■bouillon and one gill of White Wine. 
If you can afford it. Let all this sim- 
mer for ten minutes, and then add 
the carrots, nicely seasoned. Stir 
well. Cover and let them simmer for 
about half an hour. Serve hot. This 
Is a true dish of Carrots 3, la Creole. 
Eat with Daube, Roast, etc. 



199 



CELERY. 

Du Ceieri. 
Celery may be eaten "au naturel," 
that Is in Its natural state; or in 
salad, or It may be cooked. When 
cooked, it is best a. la CrSme, or in a 
Purge of Celery. (See recipe.) 

Celery an Naturel. 

Cfelerl au Naturel. 

Scrape and wash the celery nicely. 
Then cut off the long outer leaves, 
leaving the tips nice and crisp. Set 
in a celery glass or bowl, with about 
one inch of salt and water, and serve 
as an appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre, at 
the beginning of the meal. 

Celery makes a pretty decoration 
for any table. The leaves that have 
been cut offl should be saved and 
used as garnishes, and also for sea- 
soning. 

Creamed Celery, 

CSleri a. la CrSme. 

1 Pint of Cut Celery. 

1 Cupful of Milk or Craam. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flonr. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cut fresh, crisp celery into pieces 
of an inch, until you have a pint. 
Wash thoroughly, and put in boiling 
water and cook until tender, which 
will be in about twenty-five minutes 
or a half hour. Then put a table- 
spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and 
add the flour, blending without al- 
lowing to brown. When perfectly 
smooth, add the cream or milk, and 
let it come to a boil. Then add salt 
and pepper to taste. Drain out the 
celery, and add it to the sauce, and 
stir gently, letting it cook twenty 
minutes longer. Serve hot. The dish 
should be kept covered while cook- 
ing. 

Celery root and the green stalks of 
the celery, which you do not serve at 
table, may also be utilized in this 
way, making a most acceptable and 
palatable dish. 

Celery & I'Espagnole. 
C61eri a. I'Espagnole. 

4 Stalks of Celery. 2 Hara-BoUed Eggs. 

1 Onion. 

Salt and Pepper and 1 Tablespoonful Vinegar. 

This is a form of celery salad. 
Wash and scrape the celery well, and 
then chop it fine. Chop an onion 
very flne, and also several sprigs of 
parsley. Take a hard-boiled egg and 
cut flne. Mix all these together, pour 
over a little Tarragon vinegar and 
oil, if desired, and serve as a salad. 
Celery Salad. 
Ceieri en Salade 

See recipe for Celery Salad. 

Celery aux Petit Pols. 

C^leri aux Petit Pois. 

6 Stalks of Celery. 1 Egg. 

1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Floor. 

1 Cup of Milk or Boaillon. 



Cut the celery into pieces and 
"blanch and boil for about thirty min- 
utes. Then drain. Put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter into a saucepan, and 
add the flour, blending without 
browning. Add the milk and salt 
and pepper to taste. When it begins 
to boil add the chopped celery. Let 
all simmer for twenty minutes long- 
er, and then take off the Are and add 
the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Sea- 
son again to taste, and serve. Bouil- 
lon or water may be substituted for 
the milk. 

Celery With Beef's Marrow 

Ceieri a, la Moelle de Boeuf. 

3 Pine Heads of Celery. 2 Dozen Slices of 
Beef's Marrow. 
1 Pint of Madeira Sauce. 
Cut off the green leaves of the 
celery and pare nicely. Wash well 
and drain. Then tie each head near 
the end where the green portion has 
been taken away. Put them into 
"boiling salted water and let them 
blanch for ten minutes. Take out of 
the water and drain through a col- 
ander. Make one pint of Ma- 
deira Sauce (see recipe), add the 
celery to this and let it cook 
for a quarter of an hour. Then 
take the celery, place on a dish and 
untie. Add to the sauce in the sauce- 
pan about two dozen slices of beef 
marrow cut half an inch thick; cook 
for two minutes; do not allow the 
marrow to break, put in the dish 
with the celery, pour the sauce over 
and serve hot. 

Celery Patties. 
PatSs de C61erl. ' 

The Hearts of 3 Heads of Celery. H Cupful 

of Grated Ham. 
y^ Cupful of Cream. % Cup of Fine Bread 
Crumbs. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the celery hearts till tender, 
then drain and pound to a paste, 
^th a cupful each of grated ham, 
Tream and fine bread crumbs; season 
to taste with salt and pepper and 
add a tablespoonful of butter. Steam 
the mixture till it thickens, then fill 
smaU patty cases with it and serve 
hot. 

Celery Fritters. 

Beignets de C61eri. 

3 Heads of Celery. 1 Tablespoonful of Botter. 

2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cut the celery into stalks thr«e 

inches long, tie the stalks m bundles 

allowing three to a bundle; boil till 

fendTr il salted water, then take out; 

remove the strings and drain; season 

with salt and pepper, and the grated 

Parmesan cheese. Dip in batter and 

fry and serve as a vegetable. 



200 



CEPS. 

Ceps. 
Ceps the strongly flavored, flat- 
headed mushrooms preserved in cans 
and imported to this country. They 
are much affected by Creole epicures. 
They are quite expensive, and are. 
therefore, not as generally used in 
household cookery as the less expen- 
sive mushroom. 

Ceps on Tonst. 

Ceps sur CanapSs. 

3 Ceps. The Juice of 1 Tjemon. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

Drain the Ceps from their oil, slice 
nicely and fry lightly in a frying pan. 
When thoroughly heated take from 
the pan, sprinkle lightly with chopped 
parsley and lemon juice, , arrange 
■ daintily on slices of toast and send 
to the table hot. 

Stevred Ceps, 

Ceps Sautfis. 
3 Ceps. 1 Onion, Minced Fine. 1 Clove of 

Garlic. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful 

of Flour. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

14 Cup of Milk. 

Drain the Ceps from their oil; 

slice nicely; put a tablespoonful of 

butter in a saucepan, add the minced 

onion and the clove of garlic minced 

very fine; moisten with a half cup of 

milk, let the mixture simmer gently 

for twenty minutes, then serve the 

Ceps on slices of toast with the sauce 

poured around. 

Broiled Ceps on Toast. 

Ceps GrillSs sur Canapes. 

3 Ceps. % Pint of Sauce a. la Maitre 

d'Hotel. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. Sliced Lemon and 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Drain the Ceps from their oil; 
season well with salt and pepper; 
roll in fresh bread crumbs finely 
grated, broil nicely on double broiler, 
arrange nicely on toast. Pour over 
each slice some of the Sauce 9. la 
Maitre d'Hotel, garnish nicely with 
sliced lemon and serve hot. 

CHERVIL. 

Cerfeuil. 

Chervil is an aromatic plant, re- 
sembling parsley, and much used for 
seasonings, especially in oyster soups. 
It is also considered a delightful 
salad herb, and is often cut and 
mixed between lettuce, and served 
as a salad. It is found in small 
quantities, chopped, in nearly all sal- 
ads prepared to suit the taste of epi- 
cures. It is a plant little known in 
the North, but in this section there 
Is scarcely a garden where it is not 



found. It is especially used by the 
'Creoles as a flavoring for breakfast 
salads, a few leaves imparting a de- 
lightful flavor. 

CHESTNUTS. 

Marrons. 
Chestnuts are much used by the 
Creoles in stuffing for poultry and 
■game. They are also stewed, boiled 
or made into purges. (See recipe 
Pur6e de Marrons.) 

' SteTved Chestnuts. 

Marrons Sautfies. 

1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Milk. 

1 Tablespoonful Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Shell the chestnuts, and then throw 
them into a saucepan of boiling wa- 
ter for twenty minutes. Take them 
out, and remove the dark outer skin. 
Remove the boiling water in the 
saucepan, and add the chestnuts and 
let them cook for twenty minutes 
more, or until they may be easily 
pierced with a fork. Then take them 
"out and drain, and put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter in a saucepan. Add the 
flour. Blend gradually, without 
browning. Add the pint of milk and 
then add the chestnuts, and let all 
cook for fifteen minutes longer. Sea- 
son to taste. 

Cbestnnts With Brown Snnee. 

Marrons Sautes a, la Sauce Bspagnole. 

1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Brown Sauce. 
The chestnuts may be cooked in 
the same manner as Stewed Chest- 
nuts, as far as boiling. Then make 
a Brown Sauce (see Sauce Espagnole) 
add the chestnuts to it, saut6 for fif- 
teen minutes longer, letting all sim- 
mer gently, and serve hot. 

Boiled Chestnuts. 

Marrons Bouillis 9. la Sauce Maitre 
d'Hotel. 

1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Sauce a la 
Maitre d'Hotel. 
Prepare and boil the chestnuts ac- 
cording to above directions. "When 
done, drain and press through a col- 
ander. The chestnuts must be cooked 
very soft for this dish. Add a Drawn 
Butter Sauce, and sprinkle with salt 
and pepper or a Sauce a. la Maitre 
d'Hotel, and serve as an entr§e, like 
mashed potatoes. 

CHIVES. 

Cives. 
Chives are small bulbous plants of 
the onion tribe.The leaves are long 
and slender and impart a very pleas- 
ant flavor to soups, salads, etc. Chives 
are especially used in seasoning 
stews of rabbits and hare, hence, the 
name "Civet," applied to these stews 
in particular, on account of the high 
seasoning.. 



201 



COL. LARDS. 

This is a variety- of cabbage which 
does not head, but the leaves are 
cooked and served ih the same manr 
her as other cabbage. But they are 
served, principally as "greens," boiled 
with a piece of salt meat. This veg- 
etable is not as popular now in New 
Orleans as it was in former years. 

CORN. 

Du Mai's. 

Corn in various ways is served on 
the Creole tables. The first young 
corn in the market is highly prized, 
but in a few days there is such an 
over-abundance that it can be had 
all summer and late in the fall at 
prices within the reach of all. There 
is not a healthier or more nutritious 
vegetable. The following are some 
of the dainty ways of preparing this 
delightful dish: 

Corn on the Cob. 

£pis de Mais Bouillis. 

6 Ears of Corn. 2 Quarts of Boiling Water; 

1 TaUespoonful ot Salt. 

Only young and tender corn should 
be boiled. Have ready a pot of boil- 
ing water. Remove the green outside 
husks and the silk, as far as pos- 
sible. Put the corn into the kettle 
of boiling water, and let it boil rap- 
idly twenty or thirty minutes, if the 
ears are large. More than this will 
cause the corn to lose its sweet- 
ness. Serve immediately after re- 
moving again all the silk, which 
easily comes .to the surface in boil- 
ing. Heap the corn on a platter, and 
serve to each person an eat-, with a 
small butter plate of butter,, pep- 
per and salt. 

Greea Com, Planter's Style. 

Ma'is Tendre a. I'Habitant. 

6 Ears of Corn. 
2 Quarts of Boiling Water. 
1 Tablespoonful of Salt. 
Husk the corn and pull off the 
silk, leaving one layer of leaves 
close to the kernels; put to cook in 
cold water. When the water begins 
to boil, after ten minutes, add the 
salt, but do not let the corn boil 
longer than five minutes after add- 
ing the salt, as boiling longer will 
harden it. Corn cooked in this man- 
ner preserves its sweetness and is 
most palatable and tender. 

Roasted Corn. 

Ma'is Rotis. 
Place the ears of corn which have 
not been removed from the husks in 
a hot oven, or, better still, if you 
can, in hot ashes, and let them roast 
for a half hour or more, until ten- 
der. Then take out of the oven or 
hot ashes and remove the husks and 
silk and serve in the same manner 
as boiled corn. 



Creamed Com. 

Mais a, la Cr6me. 
8 Fine Ears of Corn. 1 Pint of Milk Cream. 
1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
Vi Spoonful of Black Pepper. 
1 Dessertspoonful Butter. 
Score the corn down the center of 
each row of grains, and then cut 
from the cob. -With the knife press 
out all the pulp from the cob, leav- 
ing the hull on the cob. Set a por- 
celain or agate saucepan on the fire, 
and put into, this the corn cobs, which 
you will have cut into pieces. Cover 
with water, and let them boil until 
you have extracted all the Juices. 
■When the liquid is reduced to about 
one pint, add the corn, and let it boil 
for about twenty minutes. Then stir 
in a quarter of a pint of milk, sea- 
son with salt and pepper to taste, 
add a teaspoonful of butter, and serve 
hot. Or, if you can afford it, boil the 
corn in the milk, using at least one 
pint, having first added a half cup 
of the water -in 'whiofa the corn cobs 
were boiled. Let all simmer gently 
for about a half hour, and then add 
salt and pepper to taste, and a spoon- 
ful of butter, and serve. Some like 
the addition of a teaspoonful of su- 
gar, but this is a matter of taste. 

Corn Sauted AVlth Batter. 

Ma'is Tendre Sautg au Beurre. 

' 8 Fine Ears of Com. 

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
1 Cup of Milk er Water. 

Boil the corn, and then cut the 
grains from the cob with a sharp 
knife. Put in a saucepan and add 
one tablespoonful of butter; add the 
milk, and season nicely to taste. Let 
the corn boil for about ten minutes 
and serve hot. 

Corn Pudding. 

' Ponding de Ma'is. 

1 Dozen Ears of Tender Corn. 1 Quart Milk. 

4 Eggs. ' 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of White Sugar. 

Score the corn down each row of 
grains, and grate it from the cob. 
Beat the whites of the egg and tHe 
yolks separately. After beating the 
yolks, add them to the sugar and but- 
ter, which you will have rubbed well 
together. Beat all this very light, 
and then add the milk and a half tea- 
spoonful of salt. Blend well, and 
add the grated corn. Beat again, 
and blend thoroughly, and add .the 
v/hites of the eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth. Stir in well, and set the mix- 
ture in the oven with a piece of 
brown paper on top. Bake slowly 
for about an hour, and serve hot. 
Corn thus prepared is delicious; it Is 
served with daube or roast filet of 
beef, etc. 



202- 



Baked Corn ft la CrSme. 

Mais Rotl a, la Crgme. 

1 Dozen Large Ears of Young Com. 

1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs. 

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 

^ Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 

1 Dessertspoonful of Butter. 

Score the ears of corn down each 
row with a knife, and then cut from 
the cob. With the knife press out all 
the pulp and corn juice, leaving the 
hulls in the cob. Beat the yolks of 
the eggs well, and then add the corn. 
Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Add melted butter, and then add the 
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth. Stir in carefully, and place 
the whole in a dish, which you will 
have buttered. Set in the oven and 
bake for an hour, slowly at first, 
more rapidly towards the end of the 
last fifteen minutes. Serve with 
roast beef, veal or lamb. 

Fried Corn. 

Mais Frit. 

1 Dozen Bars Young, Tender Green Corn. 

1 Tablespoonful of Lard, 

Salt and Pepper to Taste, 1 Minced Onion. 

Score the corn along each row, and 
then cut from the cob with a knife. 
Press out all the pulp and corn juice 
from the cob. Mix all and season 
well with salt and pepper. J^Iince 
the onion fine, and blend with the 
lard, . which you will have put into 
the frying pari. Add the corn when 
the onions begin to brown slightly, 
and keep stirring and stirring till the 
grain is cooked, which will be in 
about fifteen or twenty minutes. This 
Is a very nice breakfast dish or din- 
ner entrfie. 

Com Sonp, 

Puree de Mais. 

This 13 a delightful summer soup in 
New Orleans. (See recipe Creole Sum- 
mer Soup.) 

Corn Fritters, 

Beignets de Mais. 

6 Ears of Corn. 14 Pint of Milk. 1 Egg. 

% Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Grate the corn. Then beat the egg 
well, whites and yolks together, and 
by degrees add the corn, beating in 
thoroughly and very hard. Add a ta- 
blespoonful of melted butter, and 
then stir in the milk. Add a table- 
spoonful of flour, or just sufficient to 
thicken and bind, and then fry like 
fritters. In boiling lard, dropping in 
a deep spoonful at a time. Serve 
hot. 



Corn Cakes. 

Gateaux de Mais. 

6 Ears of Corn. % Pint of Milk. 

1 Egg. V2 Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful 

of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Prepare the batter in exactly the 

same manner as above, and bake on a 

griddle like batter cakes, and serve 

hot, with generous layers of butter 

between. These cakes are delicious. 

Corn and Tomatoes. 

Mais Sautfis aux Tomates. 

1 Pint of Corn, Cut from the Cob. 

1 Pint of Fresh Tomatoes, Peeled and 

Chopped. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, 

Place the butter in a frying pan, 
and when it heats well without 
browning, add the tomatoes. Let them 
simmer for about five nainutes, stir- 
ring well, and then add the minced 
herbs. Let these stew for three min- 
utes, and add the corn, which has 
been scored and cut from the cob. 
Mix all thoroughly. Add salt and 
pepper to taste, and a teaspoonful 
of sugar, or less, according to taste. 
Let all stew or saut6 for about twen- 
ty minutes, and then stir in a tea- 
spoonful more of butter. Serve hot, 
after cooking ten minutes longer. 
Serve with roast meats or grillades 
Or daube. 

Com Salad. 

Mache ou Doucette. 

This is a delicious variety of corn, 
and is much used for salads during 
the winter and early spring months 
in New Orleans. The Corn Salad, for 
that is the name given to the vege- 
table, is boiled . and then served "k 
la Vinaigrette," that is, with vinegar 
salt and pepper, or with a plain 
French Dressing; or with beets, 
sliced. Still again, it is served with 
hard-boiled eggs. (See recipe.) 

CRKSS. 

Cresson. 

This is one of the most popular 
Creole winter and spring salad plants 
and is also considered a great appe- 
tizer, being served as an hors 
d'oeuvre, and eaten simply with salt. 
As a salad it is most cooling, re- 
freshing and healthy. We have two 
varieties, the broad-leaved winter 
"Curled or Pepper Grass," and the 
"Water Cress." The latter can only 
be planted by the side of running wa- 
ter, or near springs. It is delicious. 
It is found all through the Louisi- 
ana forests, along the streams espe- 
cially in the vicinity of Abita Springs 
and Covington. 



203 



CUCUMBER. 

Conoombre. 

The Creoles hold, and justly, that 
the only proper way to eat a cu- 
cumber is "en salade." No fashion- 
able method of cooking this vege- 
table can ever make up for the del- 
icate flavor that has been destroyed 
• by submitting it to heat. 

Cucumbers are best when freshly 
picked from the vine. When they 
are thrown around the market for a 
number of days and become whited 
they are not fit for table use. Cu- 
cumbers are extensively used by the 
Creoles for salad and pickling pur- 
poses. For salad preparations, see 
special recipes under Chapter on Sal- 
ads. The word "Gherkin" is applied 
to all kinds of pickled cucumbers; 
properly, however, the terms should 
be applied to the small prickly va- 
riety. Cucumbers, besides being 
served as salads and pickles, are used 
as relishes and as a garnish. 

Cncnmbers as a Relish, 

Concombres Comme Hors d'Oeuvres. 
i Fine Cucumbers. A French Salad Dressing. 

Wash the cucumbers, cut off the bit- 
ter end, and pare the skin to a suf- 
ficient depth to remove the green 
portion. Then score them lengthwise 
with a table fork. Put them into a 
salad earthen bowl and sprinkle with 
salt. Set in an ice box for three 
hours; then cut into delicate slices 
and serve with a French Salad Dress- 
ing, the dressing being served in a 
separate dish. In preparing cucum- 
,bers to serve as a relish with fish, 
this is the proper mode of prepara- 
tion. 

CncmnbeTs as a Garnish. 

Concombres Comme Garniture. 

3 Fine Cucumbers. 

1 TaWespoonful of Vinegar. 1 Large Onion. 

Peel and slice three fine cucum- 
bers, and then make a marinade of 
one teaspoonful of sAlt, one of black 
pepper and a tablespoonful of vin- 
egar. Add one finely-sliced onion. 
Let the cucumbers marinate in this 
for an hour, and then drain and use 
as a garnish for cold meats, espe- 
cially cold Bouilli. 

CURRT. 

Karl. 

Curry is a condiment composed of 
pulverized Cayenne pepper,- coriander 
seed, timeric, onions, garlic, ginger 
root, cloves cinnamon oardamon and 
salt, all pulverized together and thor- 
oughly mixed. It is extensively used 
In the making of stews of fish meats 
and some vegetables. 

DAlVDBIilOlV. 
Dent-aerLion. 

The Creoles long ago discovered the 
possibilities of the dandelion under 



cultivation. The wild dandelion, as 
all know, is a common and hardy 
perennial plant. It is found in lux- 
uriance in the Louisiana meadows 
and pastures. The deeply-notched 
leaves closely resembling chicoree, 
so extensively used as a salad and 
as a green. Through cultivation, the 
dandelion is now numbered among 
the best of the early spring salads. 
(For recipe for Dandelion Salad, see 
Chapter on Salads.) 

Dandelion Greens. 

Dent-de-Lion Bouilli. 

1 Quart of Dandelion Greens. 
A Ham Sbilfik. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter, Salt and Pepper 
to Taste. 

Cut off the coarse roots; wash the 
leaves thoroughly; steep in salt and 
water for five hours to remove the 
bitterness. Boil a ham shank for 
two hours, throw in the dandelions, 
and cook gently for forty-five min- 
utes; then drain, chop fine; season 
with butter, pepper and salt. Mince 
the ham very fine and sprinkle over 
the greens; spread ov.er sliced hard- 
boiled eggs and serve hot. 

EGGPLANTS. 

Des Auberfilnes. 
This is one of our most esteemed 
and useful vegetables, and is served 
in the following delightful ways: 

Stuffed Eggplant. 

Aubergines Farcies. 

6 Eggplants of Good Size. 

1% Gups of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 

1 Tomato. 1 Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Cut the eggplant In the middle, and 
put to boil in cold water for about 
half an hour, or until tender. Then 
take out of the water and set to 
cool. When quite cool, take out the 
beeds and throw away. Then scoop 
out carefully the soft meat of the 
'eggplant, and leave the skins un- 
•broken. Set these skins carefully 
aside. Chop the soft eggplant fine, 
a.nd then wet and squeeze one and a 
ha,lf cups of bread. Chop the onion 
arid tomato fine, and mince the herbs 
•and garlic very fine. Season the egg- 
'plant well with salt and pepper. Put 
the butter in the frying pan (use a 
■tablespoonful of lard, if you have not 
the butter), and brown the onion in 
It slightly. Then add the chopped to- 
mato and Its juice, and let this fry 
for four or five minutes. Then add 
the minced herbs and the clove of 
garlic, and almost immediately the 
chopped eggplant. Then add the 
bread at once, and mix all well. Sea- 
son again to taste, and let all fry for 
about five minutes. Take off and fill 
the shells with the stuffing, sprinkle 



204 



the top lightly with bread crumbs, 
dot with butter, and set in the oven 
to bake to a nice brown. 
Fried Eggplant 
Aubergines Frites. 
2 Toung Eggplants. 2 Eggs. 
Flour to Make a Light Batter. 
2 Tablespoontuls of Lard. 
Slice the eggplants very thin, par- 
ing them if large, and leaving the 
skin on if very young and tender. 
Make a light batter with the eggs 
and flour. Season the eggplant well 
with salt and pepper. Soak the slices 
in the batter. Lift out and fry in 
the boiling lard. When done on one 
side, turn on the other with a cake 
turner. Remove the eggplants. Drain 
them on brown paper In the mouth of 
the oven, and serve hot on a flat and 
open dish or platter. 

Eggplant Fritters. 

Aubergines en Beignets ou au Na- 
tural. 

2 Young Eggplants. % Pint of Milk. 

Salt and Pepper. Flour. 

- Slice the eggplants nicely and thin. 
Boll them in milk in which you have 
put salt and pepper to taste. Pass 
the eggplant in flour, dusting light- 
ly, and fry in boiling lard. The egg- 
plant must float in the lard. Drain 
on brown paper in the mouth of the 
oven^.and serve hot. 

SteTved Eggplant. 

Aubergines a. la Cr§ole. 

3 Eggplants. % Can of Tomatoes. 

1 Square Incli of Ham. 

2 Cloves of Garlic. 2 Onions. 

1 ^ablespoonful ' of Butter. Salt and Pepper 

to Taste. 
, Parboil the eggplant for about thir- 
ty minutes. Take out of the boiling 
water and let cool slightly. Then 
skin and cut into pieces half an inch 
square. Chop two onions very fine. 
Take one tablespoonful of butter, 
and brown the onion in it. As it 
browns, add half a can of tomatoes, 
or six fresh, chopped flne. Add the 
square inch of ham, chopped very 
flne. Add then two cloves of garlic, 
minced very flne, and season with salt 
and pepper to taste. Let this sim- 
mer for three or four minutes, and 
then add the eggplant sufflcierit to 
make a pound. Let all cook, smoth- 
ering slowly and well, keeping tight- 
ly covered, and stirring bften to pre- 
vent burning. Season again to taste. 
After it has cooked for half an hour 
serve very hot. This is a splendid 
dish, and was first the production of 
a Creole ouisini&re. 

ENDIVES. 

De la Chioorge. 

Endive, or Chicorfie, is served both 
as a salad plant and as a vegetable. 



It is very popular among the CreoleB, 
and is much cultivated for the mar- 
ket, especially for summer use. Chic 
or6e as a salad is served in exactly 
the same manner as Lettuce Salad; 
(See recipe under chapter on Salads.) 

Endive Witb Cream Sauce. 

Chicorge, Sauce a, la CrSme. 

3 Heads of Chicory. 4 Tablespoontuls Butter. 

2 Glasses of Cream or Milk. 
A Pinch of Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Pick nicely three heads of Chicorfie 
casting away all the outer green 
leaves. Then wash the heads care- 
fully in fresh cold water; drain and 
wash again, and blanch for ten min- 
utes in boiling salted water; remove 
and throw into cold water to cool. 
Then drain of all the water, and chop 
the Chicorfie very flne. Put in a 
saucepan with four tablespoonfuls of 
butter and let cook for 3, quarter of 
an hour. Pour two glassfuls of milk 
•or rich cream over it; add a pinch of 
grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper 
to taste. Mix all thoroughly together 
for flve minutes on the stove; then 
remove, put In a dlsjh, .garnish nicely 
with Croutons fried in butter, and 
serve hot. 

Endives With Gravy. 

ChicorSe au Jus. 

4 Heads of Chicory. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot 

1 Herb Bouquet. 

Vi Ponnd of Bacon. Salt and Pepper to' Taste. 

1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Consomme. 

Clean and pick the Chicorge well, 
pare off all the outer leaves, and 
wash the heads well in several wa- 
ters. Then drain" and put to blanch 
in salted water for ten minutes; At 
th-e end of this time, throw them in 
the cold water to cool; drain and out 
into quarters. Put the piece of ba- 
con in the bottom of a sautolre on 
B-tewpan, and add an onion and car- 
rot and herb bouquet, minced very 
fine. Lay the Chicorge on top of this, 
beason with a teaspoonful of salt and 
a half teaspoonful of black pepper, 
and cover with a buttered paper. 
Then set the sautoire In the oven, 
and let the Chicorfie cook for ten 
minutes, when it will be a golden 
brown. Moisten with half a pint of 
veal or chicken consomm6, cover and 
again set in the oven for thirty min- 
utes. At this point it will be ready 
'to serve. Arrange the Chicorge on 
a hot dish; strain the sauce, pour 
over and serve. 

GARLIC. 

De I'Ail. 

Garlic is a great Creole vegetable, 
a bulbous-rooted plant, with a strong 
penetrating odor, and highly es- 
teemed as a flavoring for soups, 
stews, roasts and various other dish- 
es. Garlic is a staple product of th^ 



205 



lower Louisiana parishes, and is 
raised for home consumption and for 
shipping. More garlic is grown and 
used in Louisiana than in all the 
other states together. It is culti- 
vated like the onion. In the spring 
the bulbs are taken up and plaited 
together in long strings. One of these 
strings contains from fifty to sixty 
heads in double rows. They are then 
hung up in a dry, airy place, or stored 
away. They will keep from six to 
eight months. Great strings of gar- 
lic adorn the stalls of the French 
Market daily. 

HORSERADISH. 

Raifort. 

The roots of the horseradish are 
extensively used as an appetizer on 
Creole tables. They are an agree- 
able relish, with a fine, sharp, pun- 
gent taste. Scraped and grated very 
fine, and set on the table in small 
cups, they are used as a condiment. 
In cookery the horseradish is used 
In the preparation of sauces and sal- 
ads. 

kohlrabi, or turjtip-rootbd 
cabbage:. 

Chou-Navet. 

This vegetable is used in making 
soup pur6es or vegetable purges, and 
is also prepared in the same manner 
as cauliflower. (See recipes PurSes 
and also Cauliflower.) The finest va- 
riety, the "B^Tly -White "Vienna," is 
the only variety planted and sold in 
New Orleans. It -is an excellent ta- 
ble vegetable, very popular among 
the Italian and other European popu- 
lation of the city especially, and very 
largely cultivated. 

liBBKS. 

Poireau. 

This popular vegetable is a spe- 
cies of onion, highly esteemed for 
flavoring soups, etc. It is used al- 
together as a seasoning. 

liENTIIiS. 

Des Lentilles. 

Lentils are among the most nutri- 
tious of all vegetables. They may 
be made into a purge (see recipe un- 
der chapter on Soups), or may be 
cooked iTi every manner in which red 
and white beans are cooked. On 
Fridays and fast days they are sim- 
ply boiled over a slow fire, with a 
little butter, salt and pepper, and a 
bouquet of parsley, and an onion cut 
in quarters. Again, the Creoles boil 
Lentils with sausage, or chaurioe. 
Still again, they are simply boiled in 
salt and water, and served with a 
Sauce a la Vinaigrette, Sauce Sou- 
bise, or a Sauoe a, la Mai'tre d'Hotel. 
(See recipes.) 



MUSHROOMS. 

Des Champignons. 

Mushrooms constitute one of the 
greatest flavoring' vegetables known 
to the scientific •ouislnier. They are 
used in all manner of sauces, and 
when veal, game or fish are cooked 
"en braisS," or "en sautfi." They are 
used in "matelotes," and in nearly 
all forms of farcies. The Creoles, 
like the French, think it a crime to 
cook this vegetable in any form that 
would destroy its own peculiar flavor, 
or that which it is capable of impart- 
ing to the most ordinary dish. 

Stewed Mushrooms on Toast. 

Champignons Sautes sur CanapSs. 

1 Pint of Mushrooms. 

1 lablespoonful of Butter. a:be Juice of 1 

^emon. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

6 Slices of Toast. 

Drain the mushrooms of their li- 
' quor, and place in a stewpan with the 
butter; season to taste with salt and 
^pepper; cover and let them cook for 
ten minutes, tossing almost con^tant- 
Uy. Add the juice of a lemon and the 
chopped parsley. Place six slices of 
toast on a dish, garnish these nicely 
with the mushrooms and serve. The 
toast may be omitted If it is desired 
simply to stew the mushrooms and 
'serve as a vegetable.- 

Mushrooms With Cream. 

Champignons SautSs a. la Cr§me. 

1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, 

Vi Cup of Cream. 

The Yolk of 1 Egg. 1 Tahlespoontul Flour. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the mushrooms with their 
juice, into a saucepan, porcelain- 
lined or agate. Let them simmer for 
fifteen minutes. Then add one ta- 
blespoonful of butter, .blended' well 
with the same amount of flour, and 
mixed thoroughly with the cream. 
Season with salt and pepper. Stir 
well. Bring it to a good boil, and 
remove from the fire, and. stir in the 
yolk of an egg, which has been beat- 
en with Sherry Wine. Serve immedi- 
ately in a very hot dish or bowl. 

To stew canned mushrooms, drain 
them of their liquor. Melt the but- 
ter in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and 
gradually add the flour, without let- 
ting it burn. Blend smoothly. Add 
the boiling milk, and let it boil for 
about two minutes. Then add the 
mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. 
Remove from the fire after five min- 
utes. Serve on buttered toast or 
Croutons fried in butter. Again, the 
milk may be omitted, and the mush- 
rooms stewed in their, own liquor. 



206 



Aluslirooms With Cream. 

Champignons Saut6s a. la Crgme. 
1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

% Cup of Cream. 

The i'olli of 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful Floor. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put tlie mushrooms with their juice 
into a saucepan, porcelain-lined or 
agate. Let them simmer for fifteen 
minutes. Then add one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, blended with the same 
amount of flour, and mixed thorough- 
ly with the cream. Season with salt 
and pepper. Stir well. Bring it to 
a good boil, and remove from the 
Are and stir in the yolk of an egg, 
which has been beaten with Sherry 
Wine. Serve immediately In a very 
hot dish or bowl. 

To stew canned mushrooms, drain 
them of their liquor. Melt the but- 
ter in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and 
gradually add the flour, without let- 
ting it burn. Blend smoothly. Add 
the boiling milk, and let it boil for 
about two minutes. Then add the 
mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. 
Remove from the flre after five min- 
utes. Serve on buttered toast or 
Croutons fried in butter. Again, the 
milk may be omitted, and the mush- 
rooms stewed in their own liquor. 

Stewed mashrooms, Spanish Style. 

Champignons SautSs a. I'Bspagnole. 

1 Pint or 1 Can of Kushrooms. 

1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsl^. 1 Clove 

of Garlic. 

1 Teaspoonful of Chives. 1 Dozen Whole 

Peppers. 

Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. 

Drain the mushrooms of their li- 
quor; cut them in lozenge-shaped 
pieces, and put them in a dish and 
sprinkle with a tablespoonful of olive 
oil, and salt and pepper to taste. 
Let the mushrooms soak in this mari- 
nade for two hours. At the end ot 
this time, take them out and put in 
a saucepan and let them stew for ten 
minutes. Make a sauce of three ta- 
blespoonfuls of olive oil, the clove of 
garlic, minced very fine, a tablespoon- 
ful of minced chives, and blend well. 
Add this to the mushrooms and let 
them saute for five minutes longer 
on a very slow fire, without boiling, 
and serve hot. 

Fried Mushrooms. 

Champignons 3. la Bordelaise. 

1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Olive Oil. 

6 Sballots, Minced Very Fine. 
Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Minced Fine. 

1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Fine. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Put the oil Into a frying pan, and, 
when heated, add the shallots, minced 
very fine. Let these brown slightly, 
and add the minced garlic and fine 
herbs. Let these brown for three 



minutes or so, and then add the 
mushrooins. Stir" well and fry for 
about five minutes. Add one table- 
spoonful of White Wine or Sherry, 
and serve the mushrooms on slices 
of French toast. 

MUSTARD. 

De la Moutarde. 

Mustard is grown extensively In 
Louisiana, especially the large- 
leaved or curled, .which has grown to 
be a distinct Louisiana variety, quite 
different from the European. The 
seed is black, and is raised in Louisi- 
ana, and the plant is being more ex- 
tensively cultivated every year. The 
large leaves are cooked the same as 
Spinach (see recipe), or they may be 
boiled with salt meat and served as 
greens. 

Our Creole mustard seeds are fa- 
mous not only in making sauces, but 
for medicinal purposes. 

OKRA. 

Du F6vi. 

Okra is a great summer disTi with 
the Creoles. It may be made into 
Gumbo (see recipe Okra Gumbos) or 
boiled and served en salade. 

Boiled Olsra. 

F6vi Bouilll. 

1 Quart Young Okra. 1 Tablespoonful Vinegar, 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the okra well in cold water, 
and put in a porcelain-lined or ag- 
ate saucepan. Add a pint of water 
.,an;d a teaspoonful of salt. Cover the 
pot, and let the okra simmer for 
about half an hour. Take from the 
pot, season with salt and pepper to 
taste, pour over a tablespoonful of 
Tarragon vinegar and set to cool. 
Serve as a salad, and with all meats, 
such as daube, roast, etc. 

Stewed Okra, Creole Style. 

F6vi Saute a, la Creole. 

i Dozen Okras. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

3 Mice Potatoes. 

1 Onion. 1 Green Pepper. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

1- Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

Wash the okras and pare the ends. 
Place in a saucepan with one table- 
spoonful of butter; add a finely- 
minced- onion and clove of garlic and 
green pepper. Let all cook for six 
'or eight minutes, and then "add the 
three tomatoes, chopped fine; also add 
the juice of the tomatoes. Season 
to taste with salt and pepper; add a 
dash of Cayenne and a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley. Now add the 
okras, and let all simmer slowly for 
twenty minutes. Place in a hot, deep 
serving dish, and cover and send to 
the table. 



207 



OJNIOXS. 

De I'Ognon. 

Onions have always been conceded 
by the Creoles, as also by all scien- 
tists, among the healthiest of food 
substances. The onion is indispen- 
sable in the kitchen. It is used in 
almost every kind of meat and fish 
or vegetable seasoning, and imparts 
a flavor that cannot be claimed by 
any other vegetable. Onions are 
also acknowledged as a great seda- 
tive. The onion juice, mixed with 
sugar, is largely used by the old 
Creoles in coughs and colds, and is 
almost an infallible remedy. The on- 
ion is used as a salad, or it may be 
cooked in some very delightful ways. 
There are those, who, being over-fas- 
tidious, object to eating onions on ac- 
count of the perceptible odor that 
clings to the breath, especially in 
eating the raw onion in salad. This 
should never interfere in the con- 
sumption of a vegetable that carries 
within it such important chemical 
juices that operate so largely in the 
upbuilding of the general system. 
A glass of milk, taken after eating a 
raw onion, will destroy every parti- 
cle of odor or taste that remains in 
the mouth. 

The Louisiana Creole onion Is fa- 
mous. The origin of the Creole onion 
is lost in the mist of years. It has 
been planted in Louisiana for gener- 
ations, and is to-day the most, valu- 
able of all existing varieties of ;bp- 
ions in the Southern States. The^bnlb 
is supposed to have been brought to 
Louisiana from the south of Eu- 
rope over a century and a half ago 
and has been cultivated here so long 
that it has become a distinct kind. 
It is a singular fact that no northern 
seed has ever yet produced an onion 
in Louisiana soil. The Red Bermuda 
Onion is also cultivated in this State. 
It is flat, like the Creole, but a little 
lighter in color. Both are prepared 
after the following methods: 

Boiled Onions.' 

Ognons Bouillis. 

1 Dozen Nice, Small White Onions. 
1 Tablespoonfal Butter. 
Salt ana Pepper to Taste. 
Throw the onions in their skins 
Into cold water, and peel them. Then 
put them into a saucepan of boiling 
water. Add a teaspoonful of salt, 
and let them boil about forty min- 
utes, or until you can pierce them 
easily with a fork. Then put into a 
dish, and drain off all water. Sprinkle 
with salt and pepper to taste and 
pour over a Drawn Butter Sauce 
(see Beurre a. la Maltre d'Hotel), 
and serve hot. The large Spanish on- 
ions will require about an hour long- 
er to boil tender. 



Creamed Onions, 

Ognons a la Crfime. 

1 Dozen Small, White Onions. 

1 Tablespoonfnl Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Flont. 

% Pint of Mills or Cream. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the onions as directed in the 
above recipe. "When very tender, 
take off the fire and drain. Pour over 
them the following cream sauce, 
which you will have prepared when 
almost ready to serve: Put one ta- 
blespoonful of flour into a saucepan, 
and add a tablespoonful of butter. 
Set on the fire, and let all blend well 
together, rubbing very smooth, with- 
out browning. Then add half a pint 
of milk. Stir continually till it boils. 
Season with salt and pepper to taste, 
and pour over the onions, and serve 
hot. The young Creole onions are 
most delicious when prepared in this 
manner. 

Fried Onions. ' 

Ognons Frits. 

% Dozen Nice, Tenoer Onions. 
1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful Salt, 
Pepper to Taste. 
Throw the onions into cold water, 
■peel them, and then cut them into 
thin slices. Cover them with boiling 
water, and let them boil about twenty 
minutes. Drain off the water thor- 
oughly, and put them into a frying 
pan with a large tablespoonful of 
butter, and season to taste, and let 
them fry slowly for about ten min- 
utes. Turn frequently-, to prevent 
them from burning. Again, the on- 
ions may be fried without previous 
boiling, some preferring this latter 
method, as it admits of the onion re- 
taining its flavor. Simply peel and 
pare and slice into round-shaped 
pieces. Day the pieces in milk, and 
then in grated bread crumbs or flour, 
and fry them in boiling fat for about 
ten minutes. Lift them out of the 
fat, drain well, and serve on a hot 
dish with fried parsley as a garnish. 
Young shallots may be fried by wash- 
ing well in cold water, cutting off 
the rough roots of the shallots, and 
then cutting the green and white to- 
gether into half-inch dice. Season 
well with salt and pepp«r, and fry 
in butter for about five minutes. Gar- 
nish a dish with parsley sprigs. Lay 
the shallots on these and serve hot. 

Smothered Onions. 

Ognons Sautes. 

1 Dozen Small Onions. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Quart of Broth. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Put the onions into cold water, 
and remove their skins. Then put 
them into a saucepan, and cover with 
a soup stock (pot-au-feu or boulllou). 



208 



i£ you have it, otherwise use water, 
and let them stew slowly for an hour 
and a half, till they are almost falling 
to pieces. Then drain the onions 
through a colander, and save the 
stock. Put a tablespoonful of butter 
into a frying pan, and add a table- 
spoonful of ilour, and make a Brown 
Koux. (See recipe.) When brown, 
add a half pint of the broth in which 
the onions were boiled. Season well 
with salt and pepper and a dash of 
Cayenne. Put the onions into this 
and let them simmer gently for about 
twenty minutes loi-iger. Serve hot. 

Stuffed Onions. 

Ognons Farcis. 

% Dozen Larae Spanish Onions. 

A Stuffing of Chaurice. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Take a half dozen fine, large Span- 
ish onions, and put them in hot ashes 
to roast. When they are sufficiently 
cooked, which will be in about half 
an hour, take them out of the ashes, 
dust off, and peel well. Then open 
the interiors and fill with a- stuffing 
made as follows: Take a tablespoon- 
ful of butter and put in a fryihg pan, 
and add three chaurice, which you 
will have taken out of the casings 
and chopped finely again. Add. a cup 
of bread, which has been wet and 
squeezed, and mix well. Then add 
an inch of ham, finely chopped, and a 
sprig each of thyme and parsley and 
sweet marjoram, and one bay leaf, 
all finely minced. Season with salt 
and pepper to taste. Fry about fif- 
teen minutes, and then stuff the on- 
ions as far down in the' center as 
possible, and between the folds. 
Sprinkle the top with powdered bread 
crumbs and put a little dot of butter 
on top of each. Set in the oven and 
let them bake for about thirty or 
forty minutes. Serve with roast 
beef. 

Another nice way of stuffing on- 
ions is to peel the onion, scoop out 
the centers with a vegetable scoop, 
parboil them for ten minutes, and 
then fill the insides with the sausage 
forcemeat, as directed above. Line 
the bottom of a stew pan with fine 
strips of bacon. Lay over these an 
onion and a carrot both minced very 
fine. Place the onions on top of this 
and moisten with a pint of Chicken or 
Veal ConsommS. Set in the oven to 
bake for about three-quarters of an 
hour and baste frequently. Serve in 
a hot dish, with the sauce poured 
over. 

Baked Onions, 

Ognons Rotis. 

1 Dozen Large Spanish Onions, 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Trim the onions nicely, but do not 
peel them. Then put them into a 



kettle of boiling water, and let them 
'boil rapidly for about an ^our. Drain 
in a colander. Then put them in a 
baking pan, and let them bake slowly 
for about an hour. Take out and re- 
move the skins, and place in a vege- 
table dish, and sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and serve with Drawn Butter 
Sauce. (See Beurre a. la Maltre d'Ho- 
tel. 

After taking the onions out of the 
boiling water, if you wish to serve 
with "Roast Beef aux Ognons," peel 
the onions and place around the beef 
roast in the oven. Baste them as of- 
ten as you baste the roast, with the 
juices that come ff om it. Serve with 
the roast, using them as a garnish 
around the dish. 

Glazed Onions, 

Ognons Glacfis. 

V/d Dozen Small Onions of Uniform Size, 

1 Tablespoonful Sugar. 1 Cup Water. 
1 Large Teaspoonful Butter. Salt to Taste, 

Select small Creole onions of uni- 
form size, top the heads and the 
stems, and remove the skins, but not 
too closely, lest they should break 
up when boiling. Then take a fry- 
ing pan, large enough for the on- 
ions to lie in it, side by side. Put the 
butter in it first, and wh-en melted add 
the onions. Then sprinkle with the 
sugar and water, and season with 
salt to taste. Set oij the back of the 
Stove, where they can simmer gently 
for an hour. When nearly done, and 
tender all through, add a tablespoon- 
'ful of flour, mixed in water, blended 
well. Then set in the oven, with a 
paper on top. Let them stand for 
about half an hour, and use as a 
garnish for beef, veal, etc. The on- 
ions will be nicely glazed, and will 
make the dish appear very beautiful. 

SHAIii^oTS. 

fichallottes. 

Shallots are small-sized onions, 
grown in clumps. They are very 
delicate and mild in flavor, and much 
used in soups, stews, salads, etc. In 
the green state they are also chopped 
and fried in butter. (See recipe Fried 
Onions.) 

PARSLEY, 

' Persir. 

Parsley is one of the most impor- 
tant of all vegetable herbs, entering, 
as it does, into the seasoning of all 
soups, meats, fish and even vegeta- 
bles. It is one of the most beautiful 
of all garnishes, and gives a pretty 
touch to the homeliest dish. The 
"Plain-Leaved," the "Double Curled," 
or the "Beautiful Garnish" varieties 
are always to be found in the New 
Orleans market. A handful of par- 
sley is always thrown into the mar- 
ket basket for "Lagniappe." 



209 



Fried Parsley. 

PersU Frit. 
6 or 8 Sprigs of Parsley. 
1 TaUespoonful of Lard. 
Pick off the delicate leaves and 
branches of very young parsley, wash 
well, drain and put in a frying* pan, 
in which you will have placed a ta- 
blespoonful of lard and allowed to 
reach a medium hot state. Fry slow- 
ly and drain and use as a garnish or 
as needed. 

Chopped Parsley. 

Persil HachS. 
Wash the parsley in cold water, 
trim oft the coarse stems and branch- 
es and leaves, immerse in very cold 
water again, drain, press dry and 
chop very fine. Use as needed. 

Parsley Green. 

Persil au Jus. 
Take young parsley, wash well, 
strip of all coarse stems, arid branch- 
es, plunge into very cold water, chop 
very fine, squeeze in a strong kitchen 
towel and save the juice for coloring 
purposes. 

, Parsley for Garnlslilngr Purposes. 

Garniture de Persil. 
Take several bunches of fresh par- 
sley, trim off all- the coarse stems, 
wash In slightly salted water, drain 
and place in a colander. Set over a 
watertight vessel. • Shave some ice, 
cover the parsley with it and let It 
keep fresh and . cool for table gar- 
nishes. Never lay parsley that is 
intended, for garnishing purposes, in 
water, as the freshness will be quick- 
ly destroyed, and it will become dark, 
discolored, limp and slimy and devoid 
of all beauty or crispness. 

PARSNIPS. 

Des Panais. 
6 or 8 Parsnips. 
V> Pint of Sauce a la Maltre d'Hotel. 
To boil parsnips. If they are young, 
simply scrape them and lay them 
in cold water. If the parsnips are 
old, pare them and cut them in quar- 
ters, or, better still, split length- 
wise. Let the young parsnips cook 
in salted boiling water in a porce- 
lain-lined saucepan for forty-five 
minutes; let the older ones cook for 
an hour and a quarter. When done, 
take them out of the saucepan, and 
drain and serve on a heated dish w^ith 
a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See Beurre 
a la Maltre d'Hotel.) 

Boiled Parsnips With Cream Sauce. 

Panais Bouillls ?L la CfSme. 
6 or 8 Parsnips. A Cream Sauce. 
Proceed exactly as above in peel- 
ing and boiling the parsnips. "When 
done, drain and put into a heated 
dish, and serve with a Cream Sauce 
poured.over them. (See recipe Cream 



Sauce.). Serve the parsnips with 
boiled salt or fresh fish or boiled 
corn beef. 

Pried Parsnips. 

Panais Frits. 

5 Parsnips. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Drippings of Roast Beet, 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Chopped 'Parsley to Garnish. 

Brush and scrape or peel the par- 
snips as directed above. Then boil 
as directed in salted water till ten- 
der. When done, drain off the water 
and out the parsnips into slices 
lengthwise of about half an inch in 
thickness. Put two tablespoonfuls 
of the drippings of the roast beef in 
the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful 
of butter. When hot add the sliced 
parsnips. When they are brown on 
one side, turn on the other and let 
this brown also. Place on a hot 
platter, sprinkle with chopped par- 
sley and salt and pepper, and serve 
with roast meats. 

Smothered Parsnips. 

Panais SautSs. .^ 

6 or 8 Parsnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 
Boil the parsnips as directed, and 
then cut into strips of the length of 
the parsnip, and half an inch in 
width. Put ,a ,big cookingspoonful of 
butter ipto the saucepan, and add the 
parsiiips. Sprinkle weH with' salt ^nd 
pepper. Cover and let them fry, but 
■only slightly brown, on either side. 
~Serye with chopped parsley as a 
'garnish 

< Masbed Parsnips. 

i Purfie. de Panais. 
6 or 8 Parsriins. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Pint of Milk. ■ 

SAlt and Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the parsnips until so tender 
that tliey break easily under pres- 
sure. Then mash them well, after 
draining off all water. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and 
add a tablespoonful of flour. Blend, 
without browning, and add a half 
Dint of milk or cream. Stir well, and 
as the mixture begins to boil, add 
the parsnips. Mix thoroughly, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and serve 
in a dish, heaping up the parsnips in 
pyramidal shape. Serve with veal 
cutlets. 

Parsnip Balls. 

Boulettes de Panais. 

3 Large Parsnips. 2 :Eggs. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Boil the parsnips, as directed above, 
until very, very tender. Then drain 
and mash through a colander. Beat 
two eggs very light, and .rdd the P9.r- 
snips, using proportions of three 



210 



large parsnips to the eggs. Then 
form the parsnips into little balls 
or boulettes, and fry in boiling lard, 
or make into little cakes and fry on 
a griddle. 

Parsnip Fritters. 

Beignets de Panais. 

6 Parsnips. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, 

1 Cup of Water, 2 Eggs. 
% Pound of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 
1 Teaspoonful of Pepper. 
Boil the parsnips as directed above 
till very tender. Then cut into long, 
Harrow strips.- Make a batter by 
mixing the flour with the yolks of 
the eggs, beaten well. Then add the 
salt and pepper, and gradually one 
cup of water, till it is absorbed. Then 
add the whites of the eggs, beaten to 
a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly. Add 
the parsnips to the batter. Dip out 
one at a time, in a spoon of butter, 
and fry in boiling lard. Serve as an 
entrfee at dinner. 

PEAS. 

Des Pois Sees. 

All dried, split, kidney or black- 
eyed peas may be cooked in the same 
manner as beans. (See recipe.) 

GRISEIV PEAS. 

Des Pois Verts. 
Green peas are abundant in our 
New Orleans market, with but a 
short respite, almost all the year. 
We have two crops, the spring and 
fall. ..The large peas, or older ones, 
are called "Des Pois "Verts," and the 
smaller, or French peas, "Des Petite 
Pois." The latter are great deli-, 
cacies when boiled and served with 
butter; the former may be utilized 
In making that most delectable dish, 
"Pur#e des Pois Verts." (See recipe 
in Chapter on Soups.) 

To Cook Canned Green Peas. 

Petits Pois en Conserve. 
The delightful preparations of 
French peas that come put up in 
cans do not require much cooking, 
being, like all canned vegetables, al- 
ready cooked. To cook these drain 
the peas from all liquor after open- 
ing the can, and put them in a sauce- 
pan; add a tablespoonful of butter 
and pepper and salt to taste. Set 
on the flre, and, when thorouhgly 
heated, serve immediately. Green 
peas are served with all roast, and 
broiled and sautSd meats, fowls or 
game. There is scarcely a vegetable 
that admits of such various uses 
with entries. 

Bolted Green Peas. 

Petit Pois au Naturel. 

1 Pint of FresK toung Green Peas. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Shell the peas, and when you have 

a pint (sufficient for six), put the 



peas into (jold water, drain and put 
into a saucepan of boiling water' 
add a teaspoonful of salt to pre- 
vent the peas from cracking, and let 
them boil rapidly for at least twenty 
minutes. To ascertain if they are 
done, take one out and press with a 
fork. The great art in cooking green 
peas properly is to have plenty of 
water, to cook the peas very rapidly, 
and not to let them boil a moment 
longer than necessary, if you would 
keep them from being soggy and pre- 
serve their fresh color and sweetness. 
Fresh peas should never be shelled 
until the moment when you wish to 
cook them. When cooked, they must 
be eaten Immediately. As soon as 
done, drain off all water; put a large 
tablespoonful of butter into the 
saucepan with the peas, season witti 
pepper to taste, pour into a vegetable 
dish and serve hot. This is the very 
nicest way of cooking this dainty 
vegetable. 

As the peas grow older and larger, 
'they may be made into purges, or 
cooked as follows: 

Green Peas ft la Bonrgeolse. 

Pois Verts SautSs 3, la Bourgeoise. 

1 Pint of Peas. 
Ihi Tablespoonfuls gf Butter, 
1 Ounce of Chopped Onion. 
1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Fine. 
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
% Pint of Cream or ililk or Water. 
Shell -and poll the peas accoTding 
•to the above recipe. Add sprigs of 
parsley, thyme and bay leaf, finely . 
Winced. When done, which will be" 
in about forty minutes, if the peas 
are large, or perhaps, a few minutes 
longer (easily ascertained by taking 
out a pea and pressing It with a 
fork), drain off all water and add 
one tablespoonful and a half of but- 
ter. Then blend the flour, and add 
the milk, preferably, mixing together 
and stirring well, to prevent brown- 
ing or burning. Serve hot. Some add 
the yolk of an egg, well beaten, after 
taking the peas off the fire, but this 
is a matter of taste; the flavoT of 
the peas is more perceptible without 
it. 

Green Peas, Country Style. 
Petits Ppis Verts a. la Paysanne. 

1 Pint of Green Peas. 3 Small Carrots. 
1-8 of a Head of Green and White Cabbage. 
A Tablespoonful of Butter. 
% Pint of Consomme of Veal or Chicken. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Shell the peas; take three small 
carrots, and one-eighth of a head of 
cabbage, and one-quarter head of let- 
tuce, and cut into small dice-shaped 
pieces. Put a tablespoonful of but- 
ter in a saucepan and let the dice- 
shaped vegetables smother for about 
fifteen minutes over a slow Are with- 
out browning. Add the green peas 



2n 



and the consomme, and let aU cook 
for a half hour, stirring frequently 
to prevent burning. Season to taste 
with salt and pepper, and use a 
sprinkling of T3hoi)ped parsley as a 
garnish. 

Green Peas, French Style. 

Petit Pois Verts a, la Frangalse. 

1 Pint of Fresh Green Peas, or 1 Can. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cup of Water. 
1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Lettuce Heart. 1 Onion. 

1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Shell the peas and wash and drain 
them. Put them into a saucepan, 
with one tablespoonful of butter; add 
the herb bouquet, the onion whole, 
and the lettuce heart, and cover with 
cold water, and let them simmer 
slowly for about twenty minutes, or 
until tender. Then drain off the wa- 
ter, remove the onion and herb bou- 
quet, lay the lettuce heart on a dish, 
and add another tablespoonful of but- 
ter to the peas. Let them cook for 
five minutes longer. Pour the peas 
over the lettuce heart and send to the 
table hot, and serve with chops or 
cutlets as a vegetable. 

Green Peas, Old Creole Style. 

Petits Pois Verts t I'Ancienne Mode 
Creole. 

1 Pint of Tounj Green Peas. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cup of Cream. 

The Yolk of 1 Egii. 

1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Shell and clean the peas careful- 
ly. Put them in a saucepan with 
three tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
cover with a cup of water; season 
wtih a pinch of salt, and let them 
cook for twenty minutes, or until 
tender. Take three tablespoonfuls of 
cream and beat with the yolk' of one 
egg; add a half pinch of white pep- 
per, and mix thoroughly with the 
peas. Add a teaspoonful of powdered 
sugar, stir well, and let all cook to- 
gether for five minutes and serve hot. 

PnrSe of Green Peas ft la CrSoIe. 

Purge de Pois Verts a. la Creole. 

1 Pint of Green Peas. 1 Cup of Milk or Cream 
A Pinch of Salt and White Pepper. 
1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 

Shell and clean the peas well; then 
put them in a saucepan with the 
cream and a half cup of water, and 
let them simmer till they become 
quite soft. Then remove the pan from 
the fire; rub the peas through a fine 
sieve; season well with the salt and 
pepper and sugar; add a tablespoon- 
ful of butter; beat the butter in well 
with the peas; set on the stove for 
five minutes and serve hot. Peas 
thus prepared are served as a vege- 
table with entrees and other meats. 



Puree of Green Peas ft la St. Germain. 

Puree de Pois Verts a, la St. Germain. 
1 Pint of Green Peas. 1 Pint of Chicken Broth. 

1 Pint of Sweet Cream. 1 Herb Bouquet. 
2 Sprigs of Mint. 

A Pinch Each of Salt and White Pepper. 
1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 
8 Chicken Quenelles to Garnish. 
Shell and clean the peas and put 
them in a saucepan or sautoire, with 
one pint of chicken broth and one 
pint of sweet cream. Add an herb 
bouquet, in which you will have tied 
two sprigs of mint. Let the peas 
cook for twenty minutes, or until 
very tender, and then remove the 
herb bouquet and mint; take from 
the fire, and run the peas through 
a sieve. Season with salt and pep- 
per and a little powdered sugar; add 
a tablespoonful of butter; set on the 
fire five minutes longer, and then 
serve on a hot dish with Chicken 
Quenelles (see recipe) to garnish. 
Make the quenelles from the chicken 
left over from the broth. This is a 
very recherche dish. Serve as an en- 
tree. 

POTATOES. 

De la Pomme de Terre. 
Potatoes may be cooked in a great- 
er variety of ways than any other 
vegetable. They are most nutritious 
and are always economical as well'as 
palatable dish on the table. 

Steamed Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre a, la Vapeur. 

8 Nice Potatoes. 
A Pot of Boiling Water. Salt. 

Wash the potatoes well, scrubbing' 
thoroughly, to take off every particle 
of earth that adheres. Then put 
them in a potato steamer, and set 
over a pot of boiling water. Cover 
tight and steam till you can pierce 
with a fork. Potatoes should never 
be boiled if you can steam them 
conveniently, as they are naturally 
watery. When done, remove the 
Jackets, or skin, and sprinkle with 
salt and pepper; add a tablespoonful 
of butter in which you have mingled 
chopped parsley; and serve immedi- 
ately. Or they may be. served just as 
they are, in a covered dish. A po- 
tato should always be mealy, and not 
sogged with water, if cooked prop- 
erly. In cooking potatoes the time 
depends on the size of the potato. 
An unfailing test is to cook till the 
potato can be easily pierced with a 
fork. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre au Naturel. 

6 Potatoes, of Uniform Size, If Possible. 
Boiling Water. 

Potatoes should always be boiled 
in their skins, or jackets, if possible. 



212 



Never be guilty of paring a, new po- 
tato before boiling-. Towards the 
close of winter, just before the new 
crop comes in, ther potatoes may be; 
parecj, so that 'blemishes may' be re- 
moved. But this is soa-rcely neces- 
sary in our State, unless the old po- 
tatoes have sprouted and shriveled. 

Wash and scrub the potatoes well, 
and put them on in their Jackets in 
a pot of boiling water, which has 
been well salted. Let them cook un- 
til they are soft enough to be 
pierced with a fork. Do not let them 
remain a moment longer, or they will 
become waxy and watery. Nothing is 
more disagreeable than a watery po- 
tato. When done, take them out and 
drain dry. Put into steamer, sprinkle 
with salt, and cover and let them 
stand over the kettle (lid open) on 
the fire for a few minutes for the wa- 
ter to evaporate. After five minutes 
take off and peel quickly,, and serve 
In a covered vegetable dish. Nothing 
Is more unpleasant than to be given 
a cold potato at the -table. Properly 
cooked, the potato should be dry and 
flaky and most acceptable. 

If the potatoes are old and begin- 
ning to sprout, it will be found better 
to put them on in cold water after 
paring or peeling, and let them cook 
gradually. 

The Creoles use the water in which 
the potatoes have been boiled for de- 
stroying the green flies and insects 
that infest ros'e bushes.' ' ' 

Potatoes With Drawn Butter. 

Pommes de Terre aux Beurre Maltre 
d'Hotel. 

6 Potatoes. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper. 

Boil the potatoes according to the 
above recipe. Peel and pour over 
them a tablespoonful of melted but- 
ter, in which you have mingled 
chopped parsley. Salt and pepper to 
taste. Potatoes prepared in this way 
are delicious. 

Or, if you wish to have mashed po- 
tatoes, or a "Puree of Potatoes," as 
a vegetable, mash the potatoes well, 
and add two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter; Salt and pepper to taste. Place 
in a dish, mold prettily, and serve hot 
with meats, fish, poultry, etc. A' half 
cup of milk or cream may be added 
to the purSe with very delicious re- 
sults. (For Pur6e of Potatoes as 
soup, see recipe under heading 
Soups.) 

Creamed Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre a. la Crfime. 

6 Potatoes. A Cream Sance. 

Boil the potatoes as above, and 
po.ur oyer- them (remembering al- 
ways to keep them whole) a Cream 
Sauce.. (See recipe.) Serve hot with 
fried chicken. Add the juice of a 
lemon. " 



Potatoes ft la Mattre d'Hotel.. . 

Pommes dc Terre a. la Maitre d'H/otel. 
6 Potatoes. Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. , 
. . B.0J1 •J:he potatoes whole, according, 
to recipe, and serve hot, with a Sauce, 
a la Maitre d^'Hotel poured over them.' 

Potato Puffs. 

Pommes de Terre SoufliS a, la Crgole. 

2 Cups of Cold Mashed Potatoes. 

2 Eggs. 3 Tablespoonfuls of nream or Milk.* 

, 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

This is a nice way jto- utilize left- 
over potatoes. Masii the potatoes 
well, and put them into a frying pan 
with the butter. Add the yolks of 2. 
eggs well beaten, and stir well, and 
almost add immediately the cream. 
Let it. get very hot, stirring all the 
time. Then take the potatoes from 
the. fire, and add the whites of the 
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Butter 
a baking dish or biscuit pan, and 
fill with the mixture. Let it bake 
in a quick oven till brown. This is 
an old Creole way of preparing po-, 
tafoes, ancl highly recommended. 
Potato Snow. 
Pommes de Terre a. la Neige. 
6 Potatoes. Salt to Taste. 

Boil the potatoes with their jackets 
on.' Then peel them and set then* 
before the fire, to allow all the water 
to evaporate. Sprinkle -lightly with 
salt. Then rub them through a sieve; 
or colander. Let the potato fall in 
light, flaky drops, like snow .flakes. 
Do not touch the flakes as they fall. 
Serve on the dish in which the flakes 
■ have fallen. This dish is very deli- 
cious. 

Potato Croquettes. 

Pommes de Terre en Croquettes. 

2; Cups of Mashed Potatoes, 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. 

1 Teaspoonful of Onion Juice. 

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Ounce of Butter. 

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. A Dash of Cayenne. 

Beat the yolks to a cream and add 
them to the .potatoes. Mix well and 
then add the cream and all the othei" 
ingredients.' Mix well, and put into 
a saucepan over the fire, and stir un- 
till the mixture leaves the side of 
the vessel. Take off the flre, and 
set to cool. When cold, form into 
cylinders of about two and a half 
inches in length and one in Width.: 
Roll flrst in a beaten egg, to bind, 
and then in bread crumbs, and fry 
to a golden brown in boiling lard.> 
(See general directions for frying.) 
When done, lift out of the lard with 
a skimmer, and drain on brown pa- 
per in the mouth of the oven. Serve 
for breakfast, or as a garnish, for 
meats. Utilize left-over potatoes in 
this way. Serve with flsh, fried; 
broiled or baked. 



213 



Boulettes are prepared In exactly 
the same manner, only thyme and 
bay leaf, minced very fine, are added, 
S.nd the potatoes are formed into 
balls or boulettes. Boulettes are eat- 
en more generally at breakfast, and 
croquettes at dinner, especially with 
fish. - ' 

Potatoes au Gratln. 
Pommes de Terre au Gratin. 

5 Cold Boiled Potatoes. 
% Pint of Cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 
3% Heaping Tablespoonfuls of Gruyere or 
Parmesan Cheese. 
The Yolks of 4 Eggs. 
% Pint of Consomme or Water. 
Skit and Cayenne to Taste. 
Put the butter in the frying pan, 
and as it melts, add the flour, and let 
it blend, rubbing smooth, without 
browning. Then add the consomme 
or water and the cream, and stir con- 
stantly till the mixture boils. Then 
take the saucepan from the fire, and 
add the cheese, well grated, and the 
well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Salt 
and pepper to taste. Beat all thor- 
oughly till light. Mash the potatoes 
well, and place, first, a layer of the 
sauce in the saucepan, and then of 
the potatoes, and so on till the sauce 
forms the top layer. Sprinkle this 
lightly with bread crumbs, and set 
in, the oven and let bake ten minutes. 
When it comes to a nice brown, serve 
in the dish in which it was baked. 

Potato Souffl& 

Pommes de Terre en SoufilS. 
2 Cups of Masted Potatoes. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter. 2 Eggs. 
% Cup of Cream. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Mash the potatoes well, pressing 
them through a colander. Then add' 
the butter, and beat till sm6oth and 
light. Add the cream and the well- 
beaten yolks of the eggs, and salt 
and pepper to taste. Then add the 
whites, which must be beaten to a 
Stiff froth. Then heap this into a 
dish, leaving the mound rough and 
uneven, so that the dish will look 
pretty with the tips nicely browned. 
Set in the oven and bake to a beau- 
tiful brown, and serve in the dish 
in which it was baked. 

Scalloped potatoes are cooked in 
the same manner, only the potatoes 
are cut. into dice, a Cream Sauce is 
madp, and a layer of potatoes and 
a layer of the sauce is put into a 
pan or shells, and then alternate lay- 
ers, with a layer of sauce on top. 
Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, 
and serve in the Shells or in the dish 
in which it was b'aked. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre a. la Frangaise. 

6 Potatoes. Boiling Lard. 

..Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Peel the potatoes and then cut into 

three-inch dice; or sections like an 



orange. Have ready a frying pan of 
very. hot, boiling lard, and let them 
fry to a golden yellow or brown. Do 
not burn. Take, them out .with a 
skimmer, aild'drain in a Heated, col- 
and'er. Stanii the colander In' the 
■mouth of the oven while you fry the 
Remainder of the potato. When. done, 
sprinkle with salt, garnish with 
chopped parsley, and serve hot. 

Julienne Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre a. la Julienne. 

4 Potatoes. Boiling Lard. 

Peel and out the potatoes into 
long, thin strips. Then fry in boil- 
ing lard, and serve with beefsteak, 
grillades, etc. 

Potato Chips. 

Pommes de Terres Frites. 

2 Potatoes Boiling Lard. 
Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. 

Have two medium-sized potatoes, 
and slice them just as thin as possi- 
ble, and fry in boiling lard. (See di- 
rections for frying.) Use a vegetable 
cutter, if you have one, for slicing 
the potato. Drop a few pieces at a 
time into the lard, and be sure to 
have the lard about three inches deep. 
Stir the slices occasionally, to keep 
them from overlapping the_ others. 
When a light brown, take oiit of the 
pan arid drain on a piece "of, brown 
paper, which you have put in a col- 
ander. Stand in the open oven, and 
continue frying. As you finish the 
second frying turn the first from the 
colander into a heated dish, and so 
continue till all the potatoes are 
fried. Serve hot. Garnish, if you 
wish, with parsley sprigs. 

Pommes de Terre Frites corres- 
pond to 'the American dish of Sara- 
toga chips.- 

L.yonnaise Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre a. la Lyonnaise. 

2 Pints of Cold Boiled Po'tatoes, Cut in Dice. 
2 Onions. 2 Large Tablespoonfuls Butter. - 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Take cold boiled potatoes, and cut 
them into slices. Slice the onions 
fine. Put the lard into the frying pan 
and as it melts add the onions. Let 
them fry until half done, and then 
add the potatoes. Fry and stir gent- 
ly until the potatoes are a light 
yellow. They must not be fried 
brown or crisp, but merely saut6d, or 
smothered, in the onions. The dish 
is really Pommes de Terres Sautfies 
a, la Lyonnaise. When done, turn in- 
to a hot dish, garnish with chopped; 
parsley, and serve very hot, with 
beefsteak, etc. 



214 



Brabant Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre Brabant. 

3 Boiled Potatoes. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 lablespoonful of Choppeil Parsley. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard. 

1 Teaspoonful of Vinegar. 

Cut the potatoes into small dice- 
shaped pieces and fry them for a few 
minutes in the lard. When half 
brown, take out of the lard and fin- 
ish frying in the butter to a light 
brown. When ready to serve, add 
three sprigs of chopped parsley, and 
salt and pepper, and the Juice of a 
lemon, and serve hot. 

Potatoes & la Bourgeolse, 

Pommes de Terre a, la Bourgeoise. 
6 Potatoes. 1 Pint Gravy or Broth. 
1 Onion. 1 Leak. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Take cold boiled potatoes and cut 
into quarters, and then drain and put 
Into a saucepan, and cover w^ith any 
meat gravy or soup stock that may 
have remained, and chopped onion, 
chopped leak, pepper and salt. Set 
on the stove and let stew or simmer 
(or half an hour. This is an -Excell- 
ent family dish, that can be made 
with left-over potatoes, and may be 
used for breakfast or luncheon. 

Potatoes With Butter. 

Pommes de Terre au Beurre. 
18 Small New Potatoes. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
1 Tablespoonful Parsley, 
Select for this dainty dish small, 
round new potatoes, about the size 
of a marble. Boil them for about 
half an hour or twenty minutes, ac- 
cording to the touch when pierced 
with a fork. Then drain off water, 
peel quickly, and put into a sauce- 
pan, with a tablespoonful of butter. 
Let them brown lightly, and serve 
with Drawn Butter Sauce, in which 
you have put a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley. 

Potatoes & la Cr£ole. 

Pommes de Terre a. la Crfiole. 

8 Potatoes. 1 Spoonful of Flour. 

Yolks of 2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vinegar. 

2 Tablespoonfpls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper. 
Boil the potatoes according to re- 
cipe. Then take out of the water, 
drain and set to the side of the stove 
for five minutes, to evaporate. Then 
take off and pour over the following 
sauce: Blend one tablespoonful of 
flour with two of butter, and, as it 
melts, add about three large table- 
spoonfuls of water. Let it come to a 
boil, and take off the stove and add 
the yolk of an egg, which has been 
beaten very light. Add two teaspoon- 
fuls of vinegar. Beat well, and pour 
over the potatoes, and serve either 
hot or cold a. la salade. 



Potatoes 11 la Dlable. 

Pommes de Terre a, la Diable. 

2 Dozen New Potatoes, About the Size of 

Marbles. 

1 Teaspoonful of Mustard. 

2 Large Tablespoonfnls of Butter. 

A Dash of Cayenne. Salt to Taste. 

To appreciate this dish, one must 
first hear the funny old Creole story 
connected with its origin. Tradi- 
tion relates that Jean Marie, who 
was one of "dose no-count Creole, 
what love one good game of card, 
one good story, and one good glass 
wine wid Jacques and Jules more 
better than work for make money for 
his famine," was one day told by 
his wife, Madame Jean Marie, to 
"take dat basket and go for dat 
French market, and buy some of dose 
new pommes de terre." It was a 
familiar saying in the old quarter 
that Madame Jean Marie, who was 
the support of her large family, also 
wore the "culottes" or trousers. 
There were constant squabbles be- 
tween her and her good-for?nothlng 
spouse, but she frequently managed 
to make him help her a little in the 
"menage." On this particular day, 
-Monsieur Jean Marie resented her in- 
terference with his pleasure. Then, 
too, floating visions of his compan- 
ions at his dear familiar haunts, jeer- 
ing him as he passed with the market 
basket on his arm, and telling him, 
"Parbleu, but Jean Marie, you would 
make one good woman, ya-as!" rose 
before his mental vision. He rebelled 
against his wife's authority, and told 
her point blank that he would not go. 
■Approaching him, with the market 
basket in her hand, the enraged wife 
shook her fist in his face, and told 
him if he "didn't make quick for go 
to dat market and get pommes de 
terres, dat she would show him de 
next world before it bin come." And 
she thrust the market basket in his 
hands. "Pommes de terre aux dia- 
ble!" cried out Monsieur Jean Marie, 
groundflinging the basket on the 
ground. Madame Jean Marie eyed 
him for one moment. Then going up 
to him, with a most determined air, 
she coolly picked up the basket and 
said in a tone of voice that he had 
learned to know too well: "Now, I 
is one patient woman, yas, mais I 
don't let no man 'aux diable' at me. 
Tou hear dat hein. Now, if you don't 
go for dat market, as I bin tell you, 
I gone make you eat one dish 9. la 
diable dat bin make you wish all 
your life long you bin walk more 
quick." Jean Marie sullenly picked 
up the basket and went to market 
But tradition also relates that he 
lingered so long that when he re- 
turned Madame Jean Marie swore 
that she would keep her promise. 
While cooking the potatoes she 
poured a quantity of mustard into 



215 



them, and, to still further "burn his 
tongue, and keep him from talk so 
long wid dose vieux camarades, 
Jacques and Jules," she added a 
good, dash of Cayenne. "Now," she 
said, as she brought the dish to the 
table in her anger, "I go'ne make you 
eat pommes de terre Si la diable, for 
sure!" But her revenge was neither 
long nor sweet. The improvised dish 
that was intended for a punishment 
proved such a success that Jean Ma- 
rie laughed heartily as he lolled back 
in his chair, and declared that he 
was going to "make three, four dol- 
lar quick for ax Jacques and Jules 
come to one grand dejeuner S. la 
tourchette, and eat some pommes de 
terre 3. la diable with him." And 
so the dish was christened, and the 
quaint name has remained to this 
very day. It is made as.follow^s: 

Take nice, fresh new potatoes and 
boil them. (See recipe for boiling po- 
tatoes.) When done, take off and let 
evaporate, being careful not to have 
cooked them too much. Take a deep 
frying pan, and heat the lard to the 
boiling "point. When it begins to 
boil, drop in the potatoes, and let 
them fry for about five minutes. Lift 
out with a skimrner, drain quickly, 
and put them into a saucepan with 
two tablespoonfuls of melted butter 
into which you have rubbed well a 
teaspoonful of prepared mustard. 
Add a dash of Cayenne and two tea- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Let it cook for 
three or four minutes, shaking con- 
stantly, and then take off. Add the 
yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and 
serve 'immediately with Grillades a. 
la Sauce or Grillades Panges. (See 
recipes.) 

Ducliess Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre 9. la Duchesse. 

i Dozen Boiled Potatoes. 

The Yolt of 1 Egg. 

Take one dozen boiled potatoes, 
mash them, and form into small 
square cakes. Criss-cross them grace- 
fully with a knife, brush with the 
yolk of an egg beaten in water or 
milk, and set in the oven to bake 
to a delicate brown. 

Potatoes & la Farlslenne. 

Pommes de Terre a. la Parisienne. 

8 Potaoes. 

1 Kitchenspoonful of Butter. 

^ Plat of Milk or Water. 2 Eggs. 

Peel the potatoes and let them boil 
till tender in salt and water. Take 
them out of the water, and grate and 
mash them into a paste. Put this 
potato paste in a saucepan with a 
kitchenspoonful of butter and a half 
pint of milk or water, more or less, 
according to the dryness of the po- 
tatoes. Season lightly with salt, 
and add a teaspoonful of orange flow- 
er water, to give a pleasant taste. 



Let all boil together, stirring con- 
stantly until a smooth and thick 
paste is formed. Then turn the mix- 
ture into another pan, in which you 
have already beaten two eggs until 
very, very light. Mix thoroughly, 
and make small boulettes or balls of 
this paste. Have ready a pan of boil- 
ing lard, place the boulettes in it, 
and when they are a beautiful gold- 
en brown take them out, drain and 
serve hot. The orange flower water 
may be omitted. The boulettes may 
also be sprinkled with fine white 
sugar, according to the true Parisian 
■ style. The Creoles serve them with 
or without the sugar, according to 
taste, 

Sweet potatoes may also be pre- 
pared after this manner, and are de- 
licious. The sweet potatoes are al- 
ways sprinkled with white sugar. 

Potato Balls. 

Pommes de Terre en Boulettes. 

8 Potatoes. 

1 Kitchenspoonful of Butter. 

% Pint of Milk. 2 Eggs. 

Parsley to Garnish. 

Cook the potatoes as above, or use 

cold left-over potatoes for this dish. 

'Mash the potatoes well, and add an 

fequal quantity of cold left-over meat 

tor pork, minced very fine. Sausage 

taay also be used, with or without 

the meat. Season well with salt and 

■pepper, minced parsley and shallots 

or onions. Mix well with the yolks 

of two eggs, and form into balls of 

medium size. Brush with the whites 

of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, 

and fry in boiling lard. Serve with. 

garnish of chopped parsley or with 

meat gravy. 

Potato ftucnelles. 

Quenelles de Pommes de Terre 

6 Potatoes 
1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 2 Eggs. 
Boil the potatoes, peel and mash 
Very fine. Add the butter and minced 
iparsley, and a half onion minced very 
fine. Add the yolks of the eggs, 
beaten very light, and then form the 
'potatoes into balls and throw them 
'for two minutes into boiling water. 
Take out, brush with the whites of 
the eggs, roll lightly in powdered 
bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. 
Drain and serve with fish, meat or 
any sauce. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Pommes de Terre Roties. 

6 or 8 Potatoes. 

A Drawn Butter Sauce, or Sauce a la Hoi- 

landaise. 

To bake potatoes without meat, 

wash the potatoes well, set them In 

the oven in their skins, and in about 

an hour open the oven slightly and 

take the potatoes ont, one by one. 



216 



in a cloth, and press lightly to see 
jf they are q,uite soft to the touch. 
Then either bring' to the table In 
their Jackets, as mainy prefer, or 
pare and serve witli a: Drawn Butter 
Sauce, or with daubes, meats, sautfes, 
etc., or with any fish or meats with 
gravies. 

Stuffed Potatoes ft la Crfiole. 

Pommes de Terre Farcies a, la Creole. 

6 or 8 Potatoes. Cliaurlce (Sausage) Forcemeat. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

This is a delightful Creole varia- 
tion for preparing potatoes. Select 
fine large potatoes, and have ready 
several ' nice Chaurice. Wash and 
peel the potatoes. 

Potatoes may also be stuffed after 
washing, by peeling carefully and 
scooping out the insides nicely with 
a spoon or sharp-pointed knife. Then 
make a sausage forcemeat (see re- 
cipe), and heap up lightly on top. 
Butter, a baking dish nicely, • place 
the potatoes upon it, and let them 
bake in a slow oven for a half hour 
or forty-five minutes, till nicely 
browned, and send to the table hot. 

Stuffed Potatoes, lienten Style. 

Pommes de Terre a. la CrSme. 

6 Large Potatoes. The Tolk, of 1 Egg. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

% Cuj of Milk or Cream. 

% Teaspoonful of Crated Nutmeg. 

Bake the potatoes in the oven, and, 
when done, cut one end and scoop 
out the meat without breaking the 
skin. Add the yolk of one egg, the 
butter, chopped parsley, salt and pep- 
per to taste, and the grated nutmeg, 
and moisten all with the cream or 
milk. Mix well and beat very light. 
Then refill the skins and return to 
the oven for' a few minutes, 'till very 
hot and slightly browned, and serve. 

Stuffed Potatoes, Swiss Style. 

Pommes de Terre Farcies Si la- Suisse. 

6 or 8 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

% Cup of Hot Milk. 

1 Teaspoonful ot Salt. Peppei: to Taste. 

The Whites of 2 Eggs. 

Bake the potatoes, and, when they 
are done, cut off the tops, and scoop 
out the meat into a hot bowl; mash 
very fine, and add the butter, the 
milk and salt and pepper. Some add 
a little grated Gruyere cheese; this 
is a matter of taste. Beat all till 
very light, and add the beaten whites 
•of two eggs, and stir lightly, Pill 
the potato skins with this prepara- 
tion, heaping the flaky potatoes nice- 
ly on top. Brush over lightly with 
the yolks of the eggs, set in the oven 
tfo brown and serve hot. 



Potatoes as a Garnish. 

Pommes de Terre pour Garniture, 
6 Potatoes. 
Beef, Veal or Mutton Drippings. 
Select nice, round potatoes, if you 
wish to roast them with beef. Wash 
them, clean, boil, or, better, steam 
them; peel and lay them in the 
pan with the beef or mutton or 
veal, and let them brown awhile be- 
fore the meat is done, basting them 
when you baste the meat with the 
drippings from the roast. Place as 
a garnish around the roast, and bring 
to the table hot. 

SAVEET POTATOES. 

Des Patates Douces. 
Sweet potatoes may be boiled, 
baked, fried or made into purges, and 
used in puddings and pies. The sweet 
potato is one of our most common 
Vegetables. Possessing saccharins 
properties, it is especially nourishing 
and palatable. 

Cooking the sweet potato is an art, 
for the delicate flavor of the potato is 
lost if it is not properly cooked. As 
mentioned above, sweet potatoes may 
be boiled, steamed or baked. Baking 
is the best method of preserving the 
flavor, and steaming is better than 
boiling. Sweet potatoes cannot be 
'properly cooked, if they are cooked 
too quickly. Time is an essential ele- 
ment. To properly bring out the 
flavor of the sweet potato in baking, 
it should be kept at least an hour in 
the oven. The old Creole negroes oft- 
en bal^e the sweet potatoes in ashes, 
covered with coals. The old corn 
field slaves used to put the potatoes 
in the ashes after one meal, go back 
into the field,, and leave it there till 
the next meal. The delicate flavor 
was most grateful. 

Boiled Sweet Potatoes. 
Patates Douces Bouillles. 
6 Potatoes. A Drawn Butter Sauce. 
' Wash'"the potatoes well, using a 
cloth Or* brush, and removing every 
particle ■'of earth. Clip the edges of 
the roots that adhere. Put them to 
boil in a kettle of boiling water, and 
let them cook till they may be easily 
pierced with a fork. "Thfen drain off 
the water, and set the kettle on the 
back of the stove., Cover and let the 
'potatoes steam a few minutes. Take 
them out after five minutes or so, 
and peel and serve them with Drawn 
Butter Saupe, or cut in slices and 
spread butter over them, and set in 
the oven for a few seconds, and serve 
hot with daubes, fish, grlUades, etc. 
Sweet potatoes are in particular the 
vegetable that is served -jvith roast 
pork. 

Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
Patates Douces Frites. 
4 Potatoes. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Cut the boiled potatoes lengthwise 
in slices. Fry in very hot butter un- 



217 



til brown, and serve hot. This is a 
very nice way to utilize left-over po- 
tatoes! 

To fry uncooked potatoes, the great 
breakfast dish for fast days among 
the Creoles, slice the potatoes not 
lengthwise, but by rounds, and fry 
in boilirig lard. Bring to the table 
when a beautiful brown, and eat with 
butter, spread generously over. 

Street Potatoes au Caramel. 

Patates Douces au Caramel. 

i Potatoes. Boiling Lard or Butter. 
4 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 

Boil the potatoes and then cut 
them lengthwise in halves. Fry in 
boiling lard or butter, and, while 
frying, sprinkle generously with su- 
gar. This is a delicious sweet en- 
trfie. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Patates Douces Roties, 
6 or 8 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful ot -Butter. 
' Wash the potatoes, and scrub the 
skins, but do not peel them. By rub- 
bing the skins of the potatoes lightly 
all over with a little lard, butter, or 
fat bacon, it will render the skins 
soft and pliable to the touch when 
baked; they will peel readily, with- 
out crumbling from dryness, as baked 
potatoes often do, the peeling com- 
ing off in thin strips, leaving the po- 
tato intact. Put the potatoes in a 
baking pan in the oven, and let them 
cook until their centers are mellow 
to the touch. Serve in their jackets 
Immediately. Serve with roast meats, 
daubes, grillades, etc., or as a Fri- 
day dish, to be eaten with butter. 

To roast potatoes with meat or 
pork, wash and boil the potatoes well, 
and a half hour before the roast pork 
or beef is done pare the potatoes, 
drain well, and place- in the baking 
pan, around the pork or beef, and 
baste frequently with the drippings 
from the roasting meat. Or put in 
the pan without boiling, and bake a 
half hour longer. The former is the 
best method. 

Sweet Potato Fritters. 

Patates Douces en Beignets. 

4 Boiled Sween Potatoes. 

1 Glass of Milk, White Wine or Brandy. 

1 Teaspoonful ot Sugar. 

Juice ot Lemon. Powdered Sugar. 

Cut the boiled sweet potatoes into 
slender round slices, and steep them 
for a half hour in a little "White 
Wine or brandy or milk. Then make 
a light batter, to which you will 
have added a tablespoonful of su- 
gar. Add the juice of a lemon to the 
Making potatoes. Take each slice 
at a time, dip it in the batter, and 
let it drop from the spoon into the 
boiling lard. When fried to a nice 
. golden brown place on a piece of 



brown paper, and drain in the oven. 
Then place in the dish in which they 
are to be served. Sprinkle with 
powdered white sugar, and serve hot 
as a sweet entremet. 

Sweet Potato Pudding. 

Pouding de Patates Douces. 

6 Sweet Potatoes. 3-4 Pound ot Pine Sugar. 

3-4 Paund of Butter. 

The Zest of a Lemon, Grated Fine. 

1 Wineglass of Good Brandy. 
Vi Grated Nutmeg. ' 4 Ground Allspice. 

1 Piece of Ground Cinnamon, 
1 Pint ot Milk or Cream. 
Boil or bake the potatoes, peel and 
press them through a very fine sieve, 
the finer the better. Add to them the 
yolks of six eggs, and beat well. Then 
add the butter, beating well and 
thoroughly, and add the sugar and 
milk. Beat all very light, and add 
the whites of the eggs, beaten to a 
stiff froth. - Mix thoroughly, and add 
the grated nutmeg, ground spices, 
'and blend well with the potatoes. 
Add finally, if desired, a wineglassful 
of good old brandy or whisky, and 
set the pan with the potatoes in an 
oven, and let it bake for an hour. 
Place a brown "paper on top for the 
first three-quarters of an hour, and 
take it off at the last quarter for the 
frangipane to brown nicely. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve hot 
or cold. 

Sweet Potato Waffles. 

Gaufres de Patates Douces. 

4 Left-Over Potatoes. 
Other Ingredients In Proportion Glren. 
This is a good way to utilize left- 
over potatoes. To every two table- 
spoonfuls of mashed potatoes add one 
of butter, one of sugar, one pint of 
milk, and four tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Beat all well together, and add 
one egg, well beaten. Bake In waf- 
fle iron, and serve with butter spread 
over. 

Sweet Potato Pone. 

Pain de Patates Douces. 

4 Large Sweet Potatoes. 
1 Teacuptul of Brown Sugar. 
1 Teacupful ot New Orleans Molasses. 
1 Teacupful ot Milk. 
1 Teacupful ot Butter. 4 Eggs. 
The Zest ot One Lemon, Grated. 
A Small Bit ot Orange Peel Grated Very Fln«. 
Vi Teaspoonful of Nutmeg. 
% Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 
H Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. 
Grate the potatoes and the zest of 
the lemon and orange. Beat the 
eggs well; beat the butter and sugar 
till creamy, add the eggs, beat well, 
then add the grated potato and spices 
and milk; beat all well together; 
add the grated zest of the orango 
and lemon, put the mixture in a well- 
buttered pan and bake slowly for 



218 



about an hour. It may be served 
hot or cold cut in slices. It is de- 
licious when served at luncheon cold 
with a glass of fresh milk. 

PEPPERS. 

Du Piments. 

More peppers are raised in Louisi- 
ana than in any other section of the 
country. The hot varieties, or "Pi- 
mentos," as the Creoles call them. 
"Chili," "Red Pepper," "Cayenne," 
"Tabasco," etc., are used extensively 
for seasoning- and for making our 
famous Creole pepper sauces. The 
mild varieties, "Sweet Peppers," or 
"Green Peppers," "Mangoes," etc., 
are highly esteemed, and are used 
not only in- making salads, but in 
other delightful dishes. The Creoles 
are famous for the uses to which 
they have adapted all peppers. 

• GREEJT PEPPERS. 

Des Piments Verts. 

Green Peppers may be used in sal- 
ads, as seasonings for various dishes, 
or they may be stuffed or sautfid. 
For Green Pepper Salads see recipe 
under chapter, on "Salads." 

Stuffed Green Peppers. 

Piments Verts Farcis. 

2 Dozen Fresh Green Peppers. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
% Onion, Chopped Very Fine. 
% Inch of Boiled Ham. i Clove of Garlic. 
% Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thor- 
oughly. 

Parboil one dozen of the peppers. 
Then take off the skins and cut the 
topmost tip, and clean the inside of 
the peppers, throwing these seeds' 
away. Then take a dozen or more 
raw peppers, cut off the stalk or 
stem, and clean the insides of all 
seeds, throwing the seeds away. Chop 
the peppers very fine, and then put a 
tablespoonful of butter on the fire. 
Add one-half of an onion, minced 
fine, and let it brown slightly in the 
butter. Then add the peppers, mincedi 
very fine, almost mashed into a jelly, 
and the half Inch of ham, minced 
very fine. As these brown, add the 
clove of garlic, minced fine, and when 
the peppers are well-cooked add one- 
half a cup of bread that has been wet 
in water and squeezed thoroughly. 
Season with salt and pepper to taste, 
and let It brown. Add a dash of 
Cayenne pepper. When the stuffing' 
is well browned and well seasoned,' 
take from the stove and stuff the 
peppers. Sprinkle a little grated 
bread crumbs on top, and a dot of 
butter on each pepper top. Put it in 
the stove, let it brown, and serve hot 
with meats, broiled or roasted, chick- 
en, etc. 



Green Peppers SantCd. 

Piments Verts Sautfis. 

1 Dozen Large Green Peppers, 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

2 Chopped Shallots. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 

A Da^h of Sweet Tapioca. 

Salt to Taste. 

Plunge the peppers into hot boiling 
fat and rub off the skin. Then cut 
them into halves and cut off the stem 
and take out the seeds. Carefully 
cut away the ribs and let the peppers 
sautg for ten minutes in a table- 
spoonful of butter. Then moisten 
with a. pint of consommfi; season with 
the cliopped shallots, parsley and 
sweet paprica, and let all cook slow- 
ly for a half hour, or until done. 
Prepare fancy slices of toast, and 
'serve the peppers on these with a 
delicate garnish of chopped yolks of 
hard-boiled eggs. 

MANGOES. 

Mangos. 

This is a bright, waxy, golden-yel- 
low sweet pepper, very brilliant and 
handsome, and exempt from flery 
flavor, and may be eaten as readily 
as an apple. Mangoes are generally 
served as an appetizer (hors d'oeu- 
vres.) 

PUMPKIN. 

Des Citrouilles — Des Giraumonts ou 
Potiron. 

We have two varieties of pumpkin 
in Louisiana, one a large immense 
globe pumpkin, and the other a more 
delicate and much more highly ap- 
preciated variety, called the Cashaw. 
. The former is called by the Creoles 
"Citrouille," and the latter "Girau- 
YnoHt," or "Potiron." Both are cooked 
according to the following methods: 

Sterred Pumpkin. 

Citrouille a. la CrSole. 

2 Pints of Pumpkin or Cashaw. 

4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 

1 Teaspoonful of Ground Mace. 

1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. 
1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 

2 Gills of Good Whisky or Brandy. 
Cut the pumpkin into halves and 

then into quarters, and pare. Then 
cut it into pieces of about one inch 
square. Place them all in a deep 
pot, and add suiHcient water to cov- 
er. Let the pumpkin stew slowly 
for about an hour, stirring frequently 
to prevent burning. Then take out 
of the pot, press through a colan- 
der, and set back on the stove. Add, 
for every, pint of , pumpkin, two large 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half 
teaspoonful of salt, one of- ground 
mace, one of ground cinnamon and 
one of ground allspice. A gill of 
good whiskey or brandy may be add- 



219 



ed, and improves the flavor. Mix all 
thoroughly, and add sugar to taste. 
Let It simmer slowly for half an 
hour longer, and serve hot with 
daubes, Grillades d, la Sauce, etc. 
If the pumpkin coolts till very ten- 
der, so that it mashes easily, it need 
not be pressed through a colander. 

If the Citrouille, or large pumpkin 
Is used, never cook all in one day. 
Cut it in half, and save the other 
half for some other day in the week. 
The Cashaw will depend on the size. 
Generally one is cooked at a time. 
Left-over pumpkin can be utilized 
In making pumpkin pie. (See re- 
cipe.) 

Baked Pampfetn. 

Giraumont Eoti. 

2 Pints of Fampkin or Cashaw. 
A Dressing of Butter or Gravy. 

Cut the pumpkin in halves and 
then into quarters. Two quarters 
are enough for a family of six, if 
the pumpkin is large. Remove the 
seeds, but do not peel the rind. Place 
in a baking pan with the rind down- 
wards, and bake until so tender that 
it may be pierced easily with a fork.. 
Serve in the rind at th« table, helping 
it by spoonfuls. It is eaten with 
butter or gravy. 

Baked pumpkin is liked by some, 
but the majority of the Creoles pre- 
fer the stewed pumpkin. The above 
Is the recipe that has been in use 
for generations. Once eaten in this 
way, you w^iU never look again upon 
a baked pumpkin or. Cashaw. 

RADISHES. 

Des Radis. 

Radishes are eaten as a relish, or 
hors d'oeuvres. They are great ap- 
petizers, and help the digestion. 

The "Half Long Scarlet French 
Radish" is the only red Radish raised 
for the New Orleans market, and it 
is said that all the other cities of the 
Union put together do no* consume 
as much of that one variety as New 
Orleans does. 

There is an art in preparing the 
radish properly for the table. Cut 
the tops, and save them for Gumbo 
aux Herbes. Throw the radishes into 
a bucket of cold water and wash 
well. Have at hand another bucket 
of water. Cut the remaining tops 
about an inch from the body of the 
radish, so that only the dainty green 
will appear. Hold the radish by the 
top root, upwards, and cut the skin 
downwards in four or six parts, with- 
out detaching the radish from the 
stalk. In other words, open as you 
would an orange, without breaking 
to pieces. Throw the radishes into 
the fresh bucket of cold water, and 
In about fifteen minutes they will 
'have opened like a rose, and the ef- 
fect of the white against the red Is 



very pretty. Fill glass bowls with 
these, using taste in arranging, and 
you will not only have a very dainty 
dish, as far as a relish is concerned, 
but a pretty table decoration. 

Another way is to scrape the rad- 
ish in spots or lengths, alternating 
so that there will be a streak of red 
and one of white. The radish is not 
cut open in this case. Either way 
is pretty and inviting, if properly 
done. One or two dainty leaves may 
be left near the stalk to improve the 
appearance of the dish. 

Radishes may be served at break- 
fast, dinner or luncheon. The horse- 
radish is used as an appetizer, and 
also in sauces. 

ROQ,UETTE. 

Roquette. 

This is a salad vegetable, resemb- 
ling Cress in taste. It is served as 
a salad in the same manner, and is 
very popular with the Creoles. 

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. 
Salsifis. 

All recipes given for cooking par- 
snips may be applied to Salsify, 
which, by the way, is considered the 
most delicate of the two, both be- 
longing to the same order. Salsify 
partakes somewhat of the flavor of 
oysters, hence the name "Oyster 
Plant." (See Parsnips.) 

Oyster Plant a la Cr6me. 

Salsifls a. la Cr§me. 

A Bunch of Fcesh Oyster Plant. 

% Pint of Cream Sauce. 

Wash and scrape the roots of the 
plant thoroughly. Then throw theiii 
into cold water immediately as you 
scrape them, or they will turn black 
and appear unpalatable. Have ready 
a kettle of boiling water, and cook 
for an hour, or longer, till tender. 
Drain and serve with a Cream Sauce 
poured over. (See recipe Cream 
Sauce.) 

Oyster Plant a la Ponlette. 
Salsifls a, la Poulette. ' 

A Bunch of Salsify or Oyster Plant. 

^ Pint of Sauce a la Ponlette. 
Prepare exactly as in the man- 
ner indicated above, using instead 
of the Cream Sauce a Sauce a. la 
Poulette. 

Oyster Plant Sant£d In Butter. 

Salsifis Sautes au Beurre. 

A GooS Bunch of Oyster Plant. 

4 Tahlespoonfuls of Vinegar. 

4 lablespoontuls of Flour. 

A Tablespoonful of Salt. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

A Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. 

A Pinch of Black Pepper. 

Scrape the oyster plant well and 
throw into cold water into whiph 



220 



put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to 
prevent the salsify from turning 
black. Take from the water, drain 
and cut into pieces one and a half 
inches in length. Put into a sauce- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of vin- 
egar and flour well mixed and cover 
with a quart of cold water. Add a 
tablespoonful of salt, cover well and 
let boil slowly for three quarters of 
an hour. Drain and return to the 
saucepan and add two tablespoonfuls 
of the best butter, the pepper, 
chopped parsley. Juice of a lemon, and 
a pinch of black pepper. Mix well 
and let it heat for Ave minutes, toss- 
ing almost constantly. Put into a 
deep dish and serve hot. 

Salsify Pr«t..er. 

Salsifis en Beignets. 

A Buncli of Salsify. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Cup of Water. 2 Eggs. . 

Vi Pound of Flour. ' 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 

1 . Teaspoonful of Pepper. 

Clean and scrapp the salsify and 
boil as directed in recipe Boiled Par- 
snips (see recipe) till very tender. 
Then cut into long, narrow strips. 
Make a batter by mixing the flour 
with the yolks of the eggs, beaten 
well. Then add the salt and pepper, 
and gradually one cup of water, till 
it is absorbed. Then add the whites 
of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. 
Mix thoroughly. Add the salsify to 
the batter. Dijp, out one spoon at a 
time of the batter, and fry in boiling 
lard. Serve as an eijtrSe at dinjier. 

SPIINACH. 

Des fiplnards. 

Spinach is one of the healthiest of 
vegetables, but, unfortunately, it is 
generally so badly prepared by the 
majority of cooks as to be not only 
most unrelishable, but unsavory as 
well. The great art in cooking Spin- 
ach is to cook it just long enough 
and no longer? to drain thoroughly 
and to have it of Just such consist- 
ency as will enable it to retain a 
neat shape when arranged on a dish 
in mound shape. The most impor- 
tant point in cooking Spinach is to 
drain it perfectly dry the moment It 
Is taken from the flre. If allowed to 
cook too long, it loses its color. If 
it stands in the water it becomes 
tasteless. The following are the Cre- 
ole methods of serving Spinach. It 
is one of the cheapest of all dishes 
served among the Creoles, and a very 
good dish, too. 

Spinach, Flnln Boiled. 

fipinards au Naturel. 

% Peck of Fresh Young Spinach. 
1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 
Always select young and tender 
fepinach. Carefully pick it over. 



and reject ■ all wilted leaves and 
coarse fibers and nerves. Cut oft the 
roots. Wash and drain it well In 
cold water, and press out all the 
water. It will take about halt a 
peck or four pints, to make a good 
■dish, as it boils down. Put the spin- 
ach in a kettle, and add one cupful 
of water. Place on a moderate fire 
and let it simmer for ten minutes. As 
soon as it appears to wilt, take off 
the Sxe, for that is all the cooking 
that is needed. Then drain the spin- 
ach of all water through a colander, 
and then press through a very fine 
sieve, to drain off the remaining wa- 
ter from the vegetable. Chop the 
spinach very fine. Then put a ta- 
blespoonful of butter in a saucepan, 
•and add the spinach to it. Stir well. 
Add a few spoonfuls of water, just 
sufficient to thin, if a little thick, 
and let it heat thoroughly. Other- 
wise, if of the right consistency, no 
water need be added. Good judg- 
ment must here prevail. Season with 
salt and pepper to taste. 

At this point the spinach may be 
served in various ways, as Spinach 
a, la Cr6me, Spinach au Jus, Splnacfh 
with Hard-Boiled Eggs, Spinach a. la 
iMaltre d'Hotel, etc. The plain boiled 
'spinach may be served with vinegar 
as a salad. (See recipe under Chap- 
ter on Salads.) 

Splnacli a la CrKme. 

£:plnards a. la Cr&me. 

% Pe?k of Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful 

of Powdered Sugar. 

6 Croutons. 

A Cream Sauce. 

Prepare the spinach as above. 
When ready to take from the sauce- 
ban, have ready slices of buttered 
toast, or Crotitons fried in butter. 
Roll the Croutons in sugar before 
frying. ■ Heap the spinach in little 
mounds upon them, sprinkle lightly • 
with sugar, and pour over a Cream 
Sauce (see Cream Sauce), and serve 
hot. 

Spinach an Jus & la Bourgeolse. 

fipinards au Jus k la Bourgeoise. 

% Feck of Spinach. 
2 Hard-Boiled or Poached Eggs. 
1 Cup of Gravy or Consomme. 

Boil the spinach according to the 
above recipg. When ready to take 
from the saucepan, after adding the 
butter and seasonings, put it in a 
saucepan and pour over a cup of 
roast beef gravy or consommfi, let 
it cook for twenty minutes, and serve 
hot. 



221 



Spinach with Hard-Bolled Ksss. 

fipinards aux Oeufs Durs. 

% Peck o( Spinach. 
1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. 
Boil the spinach and prepare to 
the point indicated in recipe for Spin- 
ach (Plain Boiled). Then take the 
spinach from the saucepan, and ar- 
range in a mound on a dish, and 
garnish with slices of hard-boiled 
eggs. 

Splnnch & la Mattre d'Hotel. 

fipinards 3, la Maltre d'Hotel. 

% Peck of Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. A Sauce a la 
Maltre d'Hotel. 
Prepare the spinach as directed 
In recipe Plain Boiled Spinach. Pour 
over a Sauce a, la Maltre d'Hotel, 
cook a few minutes, and serve hot. 

Spinach ft la Cnlslniere. 

fipinards 3, la CulsinlSre. 

H Peck of Spinach. ^Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Cup of Milk. 

6 Toasted Croutons. 

Prepare the spinach as above, hash 
fine, and put in a saucepan with a ta- 
blespoonfoil of butter. Season with 
salt and pepper, add.a tablespoonful 
of flour, mixed with a cup of milk 
and a sgoon-' of •Welted butter, and 
serve with toasted dice Crofltons on 
the spinach. 

BEET TOPS, RADISH TOPS, TUR- 
NIP Tops, etc. 

Never throw away any beet, turnip, 
or radish tops. They may all be 
cooked in the same manner as spin- 
ach au Jus, or they may b^ cooked 
with salt meat, and make very good 
and healthy dishes. The humble Cre- 
ole families in New Orleans prepare 
turnip tops and beet tops in such a 
way that a king might not (j'S^ain 
what is commonly held as l^ltchen 
refuse. 

All these may be made Intp nice 
purges. (See recipe for making pu- 
rees.) 

SORREL. 

De rOseille. 
Sorrel is used for various pur- 
poses In the kitchen. It is made into 
soups and purSes, served as a salad, 
or cooked in exactly the same man- 
ner as in the recipe fOr cooking spin- 
ach. (See recipes Spinach.) 

PurSe of Sorrel. 

Purfie d'Oseille. 
In preparing Sorrel after this re- 
cipe, make a purge, to be served as a 
vegetable or as a soup. (See re- 
cipe.) A vegetable purge is of course 
of far denser consistency than a pu- 
rge intended for soup. 



Sorrell au Gras. 

Oseille au Gras. 

Prepare the sorrel in exactly the 
same manner as spinach, or "£pi- 
nlrds au Jus." (See recipe.) Reject 
all fibrous portions. After you have 
scalded It, it is important to drain 
thoroughly. Then chop and press 
through a colander. Garnish nicely 
with CroQtons fried in butter. 

Sorrel is very acid, and to those 
who do not like much acidity this 
may be modified by mingling with 
equal parts of spinach or lettuce. 

Sorrell au M.v.lg;re. 

Oseille au Maigre. 

Prepare exactly as above, only, in- 
stead of using broth or gravy, add 
milk and the well-beaten yolks of 
two eggs. 

SaXTASH. 

Courge. 

3 Young Squash. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Cut the squash into quarters and 
pare and remove the seeds. Then cut 
into small squares of about an inch. 
Wash in cold water, and then put into 
a porcelain-lined or agate saucepan, 
and half cover w^ith water, for squash 
is a watery vegetable. Let it simmer 
gently for about twenty minutes or 
half an hour. Then drain through a 
colander, pressing gently. Mash the 
squash very fine after draining, and 
retlirn- to the'^saucepan. Add two ta- 
blespoonfuls of butter, and salt and 
pepper to taste, and stir until thor- 
oughly heated, and it begins to sim- 
mer gently. Do not cease stirring, or 
it will burn. Serve hot. This is the 
most delicate way of serving squash, 
and the' only one that the good taste 
of the Creoles will tolerate. Baked 
squash are often served, but stuffed 
squash and the like offend the good 
ethics of the Creole kitchen. 

TOMATOES. 

Des Tomates. 

Like the onion, tomatoes are among 
the indispensible adjuncts of good 
cooking, entering, as they do, so much 
into the good seasoning and delicate 
fiavoring of various dishes. They are 
also excellent in salads. (See Sal- 
ads.) Tomatoes, however, form very 
dainty dishes, when cooked, and 
among' these are the following: 

StcTTcd Tomatoes. 

Tomates SautSes. 

12 Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. 1 Onion. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

^ Cup of Bread Crumbs. 1 Inch of Ham. 

Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 
1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay 
Leaf. 
Scald the tomatoes, and let the wa- 
ter remain over them about five min- 



222 



utes. Then peel the tomatoes, slip- 
ping the skins off easily, and cut 
them* into small pieces. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter into a saucepan, 
and as it melts add the onion, which 
you will have chopped very fine. Let 
it brown, and add one inch of ham, 
chopped very fine. Then add the to- 
matoes, and let them brown, slowly 
adding in the meantime a half cup 
of dry bread crumbs. Let all sim- 
mer gently, and add "One sprig each 
of thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Stew 
gently for -an hour longer, and serve 
hot. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 

Tomates Grill6es, 

6 Tomatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 lablespooQfal of Chopped Parsley. 

The Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Take six tomatoes and cut them in 
halves on the cross. Do ■ not peeU 
Put them on the broiler and broil on 
a slow flre till tender. Turn the 
broiler from one side to the other 
often, to prevent burning. In about 
ten minutes they will be done. Put 
on a hot dish; put a little melted but- 
ter, a little chopped parsley and the 
juice of a lemon on each, and serve 
hot 

Fried Tomatoes, 

Tomates Prites. 

6 Nice, Ijarge, Firm Tomatoea. 
1 Ege. % Gup of Bread Crumbs. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Jiard. 
Slice the tomatoes very thin, and 
then dust with salt and pepper. Beat 
the egg very light. Dip the toma- 
toes first in this and then In the 
bread crumbs, and drop into the lard, 
, covering the bottom of the pan. When 
brown on one side, turn on the other. 
Turn carefully with the cake turner 
into a heated dish. Keep warm while 
you are frying the rest, and serve 
very hot. 

Tomatoes an Gratln. 

Tomates au Gratin. 

S Tomatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Gup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Scald and skin the tomatoes. Then 
place a layer of them at the- bottom 
of a baking dish, cover with a layer 
of bread crumbs, spread very thick, 
and season with salt and pepper and 
dots of butter at Intervals. Continue 
in tliis way till the last layer is 
reached, finishing with a layer of 
bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, dot with butter, and put in 
an oven to bake for an hour and a 
quarter. Canned tomatoes will re- 
quire about half this time. 



Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Tomates en Coquilles. 

6 Tomatoes. 1 Cup of Grated Bread CramtM, 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Proceed exactly as above, only 

bake the tomatoes in layers in small 

cups or silver shells. 

Stnffed Tomatoes, 

Tomates Farcies. 

6 Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Cup of Wet, Bread, Squeezed Thoroughly, 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

1 Clove of Garlic (If desired.) 1 Onion. 

%, Inch of Ham. 

Wash the tomatoes, selecting fine, 
large, smooth ones for this purpose. 
Either cut the tomato in two, or else 
cut one slice from the stem end. 
Scoop out the inside of the tomato, 
and put it in a dish and save the 
skins. Take one onion and one 
quarter of an inch of ham and chop 
very fine Put a tablespoonful of 
butter into a saucepan, and add the 
onion, letting it brown nicely. Then 
add the ham. Let It brown. Add 
the Insides of the tomatoes, and then 
add, almost instantly, a cup of bread 
that has been wet and squeezed. Beat 
all well together as It fries, and add 
salt and pepper to taste. Let it cook 
well, and then take off, and stuff the 
tomatoes, cut In halves or whole. The 
former is the daintier way. Sprinkle 
the tops with bread crumbs, and dot 
with butter. Place in the oven for 
fifteen or twenty minutes, till brown, 
and serve hot with filet of beef or 
chicken, etc. 

Stuffed Tomatoes ft la CrSole. 

Tomates Farcies a, la CrSole. 

U Found of the White Meat of a Chicken. 

2 Inches of Ham. 

1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 

t Onion, lUInced Fine. % Cup Bread Cnimbt. 

Thyme and Bay Leaf. 

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. 

Chop the chicken meat very fine. 
Cut the tomatoes into halves, and 
scoop out the insides without break- 
ing the outer skins. Take the inside 
meat and chop fine. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter into the saucepan, 
and as it melts add the chopped on- 
ion, and let it brown. After a few 
minutes, add the ham and chicken, 
and let these brown. Then add the 
tomatoes, and, as they brown the 
bread crumbs. Add the minced herbs 
and a clove of garlic. If desired. (The 
garlic must be added before the to- 
matoes, if It is used.) Let all sim- 
mer gently. Season to taste with 
salt and pepper and a dash of Ca- 
yenne. When well cooked, remove 
from the fire, when about the con- 
sistency of thick starch. Let it cool 
slightly, and then stuff each tomato 



22^ 



shfijl. Sprinkle bread crumbs gratecl 
on top, and dot with butter. Place in 
the oven for about half an hour, and 
serve as an entremet with chicken 
or veal. 

TomatU Salad. 

Tomates en Salade. 
See recipe under chapter on Sal- 
ads. 

Paric; of Tomatoes. 

Pur4e de Tomates. 
See recipe under chapter oh Soups. 

TURNIPS. 

Des Navets. 

Turnips are cheap in New Orleans, 
and many delightful dishes may be 
made with them, if properly pre- 
pared. The turnip tops also make 
good, substantial home dishes, that 
none should disdain. The Creoles, 
who have applied the art of cooking 
to the most humble even of the vege- 
table kingdom, have learned to so 
prepare turnip tops as to make them 
a welcome dish on the most exclusive 
tables. 

Turnips are largely used, like the 
tomato and onion, though not to such 
an extent, in seasoning food sub- 
stances. They are indispensible with 
the pot-au-feu, the bouillon, or the 
well-made consommg. 

Mashed Turnips. 

Purge de Navets. 
6 Turnips. 2 TaMespoonfuls of Butter. 

Salt and Pepper to Xaate. 
Wash and pare the turnips, and cut 
them into quarters, and cover with 
boiling water and boil until very 
tender, which will be in about thirty 
to forty-five minutes, according to 
the tenderness of the turnips. If you 
boil them whole it will take an hour 
and a quarter. If you cut the turnips 
as soon as tender take out of the wa- 
ter and drain through a colander of 
all water. Then press them lightly, 
to squeeze all remaining water out, 
and hash well. Add a tablespoonful 
of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 
and serve l^ot. Serve with roast 
meats or roast ducks. 

Turnips, may be mixed with equal 
quantities of potatoes, mashed and 
buttered. 

Plain Boiled Turnips. 

Navets Bouillis au Naturel. 

6 Tomips. A. Dra-wn Hotter Sauce. 

Boil the turnips whole, selecting 
very tender ones. They will require 
about an hour of boiling. Always 
use hot water in putting on the tur- 
nips. Drain off water, when tender, 
and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce, 
pepper and salt. Serve with roast 
beef, mutton or roast duck. 



Creamed Turnips. 

Navets k la CrSme. 
6 Turnips, A Cream Sauce, 

Cut large turnips in quarters for 
this dish. Small t>nes may be boiled 
whole. When tender, drain and put 
into a colander and press out all wa- 
ter. Then make a rich Cream Sauce 
(see recipe) and pour over the tur- 
nips. Serve with boiled leg of mut- 
ton, either by placing the turnips 
around the leg of mutton on the dish 
and pouring the sauce over, or sepa- 
rate, as a vegetable. 

Turlnps Baked With Mutton. 

Mouton ' Roti aux Navets. 

6 Turnips. Salt and Pepper to Taste. 
Roast Mutton Drippings. 

Boil the turnips until nearly ten- 
der. Then drain in a colander. If 
-very large, cut in quarters; if small, 
let them remain uncut. Day them on 
the pan, around the roasting leg of 
mutton, and let them bake about an 
hour, basting frequently w^ith the 
drippings from the mutton. When 
done, place around the leg of mutton 
hs a garnish, and serve. 

Glazed Turnips. 

Navets Glac6s. 

,6 Turnips of Uniform Size. 

1 Tablespoonful ot Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. 

1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. 

Salt to Taste. 

Select fine, small and tender tur- 
nips of uniform size (top the heads 
and the stems, and remove the skins, , 
but not too closely, lest they should , 
break up when boiling. Then take 
a frying pan large enough for the 
turnips to lie in it, side by side. Put 
the butter in first, and when melted 
add the turnips. Then sprinkle with 
the sugar and water, and season with 
salt to taste. Set on the back of the 
stove, where they can simmer gently 
for an hour. When nearly done, and 
tender all through, add a tablespoon- 
. ful of flour, mixed in water, blended 
well. Then set in the oven, with a 
paper on top. Let them stand for 
about half an hour and use as a 
garnish for beef, veal, etc. The tur- 
piss will be nicely glazed, and will 
make the dish appear very beauti- 
ful. 

Turnips Fried in Butter. 
Nayets SautSs au Beurre. 

6 Turnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

Boil the turnips according to di- 
rections, and, when very tender, drain 
in a colander. Put two tablespoonfuls 
of butter into a frying pan, and when 
it is hot, add the turnips. Season well 
with salt and pepper, and, when nice- 
ly browned, dish on a hot platter 
knd serve with roast ducks. 



224 



Boiled Turnip Tops A la Creole. 

Navets & la Creole. 

Vi Peck of Turnip Greens. 

I Tablespoonful ot Salt and a Found of Presb 

Fork or 1 Found of Salt Fork. 

Pepper to Taste. 

Wash the turnip tops, and put into 
a kettle of boiling water with a piece 
of fresh or salt pork. Let them 
boil slowly till tender, and then sea- 
son well with salt and pepper. When 
tender, take out and chop, but not 
too fine, or leave them Just as they 
are. Drain of all water, and serve 
as you would boiled cabbage, piling 
the turnip tops around the dish, and 
the salt meat or pork ia the center. 

Again, the Creoles boil the white 
turnips with the greens, cutting the 
former portions into quarters or semi- 
quarters, according to their size, 
and chopping the greens after cook- 
ing. Bat with pepper vinegar, as 
you would boiled cabbage. 

TRUFFLES. 

Des Truftes. 

The Truffle is a most expensive 
vegetable. It belongs to the family 
of Mushrooms, and is a subterranean 
production, of a fishy, fungous struc- 
ture and roundish figure. Its aroma 
Is particularly marked, and it is much 
esteemed by epicures, for, when 
mixed in proper proportions it adds 
a zest and flavor to all Sauces for 
Fish, Filets of Beef, Turkey, Chick- 
en, Game and Omelets that cannot 
be found in any other plant in the 
entire vegetable kingdom. The name 
"Truflle" Is supposed to be derived 
from the French "Truffe," or the 
Spanish "Trufa," signifying deceit or 
Imposition, the growth of the plant 
under ground seeming to accord with 
the name. 

Truffles come prepared in cans, be- 
ing put up in France, those of "Peri- 
gord" being the brand most in use. 
The Creoles use Trufiles mostly as a 
condiment for fish, meats, stuffings 
for poultry, game, etc. They are 
very expensive, costing as much as 
$3 a can, and a small can at that. 
In cooking filets, they are prepared 
simply "Truffge," or whole or cut in 
halves, or "a, la Perigueux," that is, 
the Truffles are cut or minced very 
fine. They are also served after the 
following majiner as entremets or 
hors d'oeuvres. 

Truffles in Spanish Style. 

Truffes a. I'Espagnole. 

10 Truffles. 

2 TaWeapoonfuls , of Salad Oil or Butter. 

1 TabWspr— ful of Ulaced Parsley. 

3 Flnfc.y Minced' Shallots. 

3 Sprigs of Minced Parsley. 

% Glass ot White Wine. Sauce Espagnole. 

Slice the Truffles very fine, and 



place in a saucepan on a slow fire, 
with a tablespoonful of butter or two 
of oil, salt and pepper to taste and 
the minced parsley and shallots. Af- 
ter letting them smother for a few 
minutes, moisten well with the White 
Wine or Champagne and a Sauce Es- 
pagnole, using equal proportions of 
the wine and sauce. Quicken the fire 
slightly, and let them cook slowly 
till done. Skim off all grease, and 
serve hot with ragouts, etc. 

Truffles With CliampaKiie. 

Truffes au Vin de Champagne. . 
6 Truffleo. 1 Glass of Champagne. 
Make a "Marinade," that is, a liq- 
uor with spices and vinegar; set to 
cook, and add a glass of champagne. 
Add the Truffles, and season again to 
taste. Let all cook for upwards ot 
half an hour. Then take the Truffles 
from the sauce. Let them cool, and 
serve on a folded napkin as an hors 
d'oeuvre. 

Truffles on Minced Toast. 

TrutEes en Croustades. 

4 Truffles. 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Butter. 

1 Clove of Garlic. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

8 Croutons Fried In Butter. 

Prepare the Truffles as in the "ic- 

cipe "a I'Espagnole," or simply "S, 

,1a Pro3v«nQale," that Is, sltoe' them 

very fine, let them stew or sauter 

them in butter., and -Season well with 

salt and pepper- and the clove of a 

garlic minced very fine. When done, 

add the Juice of a lemon. Take some 

slices of bread, cut in fancy shapes, 

and fry in butter, or toast. Cover 

each piece with some of the Ragout 

of Truffles, and serve hot. 

VEGETABLE PEAR. 

Mirliton. 

The Vegetable Pear, or "Mirliton," 
as the Creoles have named this vege- 
table, belongs to the gourd family. 
It is known to botanists by the name 
of the "One-Seeded Cucumber." Like 
almost all the gourds, the plant is 
a vine, and is trained by the Creoles 
upon trellis, fences or arbors around 
their homes. It is not only a very 
ornamental vine, but an abundant 
bearer. The fruit, if properly pre- 
pared, as the Creoles know so well' 
how to prepare it, is a delightful 
dish, and is of a very much finer 
flavor than eggplants, squashes or 
pumpkins. It may be cooked In a 
half dozen ways, stuffed and stewed 
and fried, as the eggplant (see re- 
cipes), or stewed or baked, like the 
pumpkin, squash or cashaw. It is 
particularly flne when prepared like 
stewed cashaw. (See recipes.) It 
may also be made into fritters, like 
eggplants, or bakei cakes. In any 



225 



way that it is served it is delicious, 
and is a great favorite with the Cre- 
oles, especially the little children. 

me:i,ons. 

Des Melons. 

The New Orleans market cannot be 
excelled by any market in the world 
in the splendor and variety of the 
Melons found in the beginning of the 
summer, and till late in the fall, in 
Us great market stalls and fruit 
stalls, which Intersect every portion 
of the city. Especially is this the 
case with the Muskmelon, or Cante- 
loupe. No northern variety of melons 
can compare with our special vari- 
eties, and it is familiarly said that 
It requires Louisiana sun to bring 
the seed to perfection. Muskmelons 
and Watermelons are among our 
most common articles of food, and 
are within the reach of all classes, 
rich and poor, white and black, in 
season. The Creoles serve Melons 
both as a fruit and a dessert. 

MUSKMEJIiON. 

Cantaloup. 
Muskmelons, or Canteloupes, are 
cultivated extensively in the vicinity 
of New Orleans. The quality is fine, 
and the flavor delicious. They are 
served by tire Creoles' both as a, fruit 
and as a dessert — as a fruit at the 
beginning of breakfast, and as a 
dessert at the close of luncheon or 
dinner. The melon is always served 
very cold,. beirn«. kept tfn ice several 
hours before Serving, and when cut 
in halves ^nd cleansed of seed, 
crushed ice is placed within each 
half, and It is brought to the table 
and served. It is a most refreshing 
accompaniment to bi-eakfast, at 
which meal it is more generally 
served. 

WATERMEIiON. 

Melon d'Bau. 
The Watermelon is as great a fa- 
vorite among the Creoles for lunch- 
eon and dinner and supper desserts as 
the Muskmelon is a general breakfast 
and luncheon favorite. Indeed, at all 
hours during the summer, except in 
the early forenoon, a watermelon is 
considered in place as a most refresh- 
ing and welcome summer offering. 
Watermelons are kept on ice contin- 
ually by fruit dealers, and whenever 
a family chooses to have a "Melon 
on Ice," they have simply to send to 
the fruit stand within the radius of a 
square, and a splendid rosy-fruited 
melon is to be had, cold and delicious, 
and just ready to be cut. The Cre- 



oles as a rule, cut the melon In 
great round slices, so that each per- 
son may have a piece of "the heart" 
of the fruit; or it may be cut in 
lengthwise sljces, according to taste. 
The new-fangled practice of "scoop- 
ing the melon out with a spoon," 
and thus serving it, is distegarded by 
the Creoles. The only proper way to 
eat a melon and enjoy it is in the 
good old Creole style: Give every 
guest a fine round slice, glowing with 
"a heart of red," and thus will the 
fruit be enjoyed as it deserves. 

GARDEN HERBS. 

The old-time garden herbs are part 
of every well-regulated Creole kitch- 
en garden. Thyme, Sage, Rosemary, 
Mint, Sweet Marjoram, B&,sil, Laven- 
der, Anise, Carraway, Bene, Borage, 
Catnip, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Hore- 
nound, Pot Marigold, Pennyroyal, . 
Rue, Summer Savory, Tansy, Tarra- 
gon, Wormwood— all these thrive in. 
our gardens, and are used by the 
Creole housewives, some for culinary, 
■ others for medicinal purposes. "The 
Bouquet Garni," or herb bouquet, has 
already been spoken of in the begin- 
ning of this book. To prepare such 
herbs as Sage, Thyme, Summer Sav- 
ory, Mint, Basil, or any of the sweet 
or m'eijiclnal herbs, for winter use, 
the Creole housewife gathers them 
from her own little garden patch 
when they are fresh in their season, 
or she procures them from the mar- 
ket^. After examiniins' them well, 
and discarding all poOr or sickly" 
looitlng sprigs, she w^ashes and 
shakes the§h-erbs. Then she ties 
them into sAiall bundles, and ties an 
old pifece of mosquito netting about 
them, to keep them from picking up 
any dust. The herbs are then hung, 
leaves downwards, in a warm, dry' 
place. In a few days they will be 
thoroughly dry and brittle. She then 
picks all the leaves off, and puts them 
in clean large-mouthed bottles, and 
corks and labels them. When needed 
for use, they, are rubbed very fine 
between the fingers and passed' 
through a sieve. The bottle is always 
kept corked, as exposure to the air 
will cause the herbs to lose strength 
and flavor. 

Herbs, such as Sweet Marjoram, 
Thyme, etc., are in daily use in our 
kitchens. In like manner the Creole 
housewife gathers the leaves of the 
Laurel, or Bay Leaf, and, after wash- 
ing and drying thoroughly, the leaves 
are bottled for use. But fresh herbs 
are nearly always to be found in our 
gardens. , , i 



CHAPTER XXX. 

RELISHES. 

Hors d'Oeuvres. 



Hors d'Oeuvres are relishes and 
may be served either hot or cold. 
Ordinarily, in daily household life, 
only the cold hors d'oeuvres, such as 
cress, celery, olives, radishes, etc., 
are served; they are set upon the 
tables as a decoration and passed as 
appetizers or relishes between the 
courses. At more formal affairs, hot 
hors d'Oeuvres are served, some of 
them being most elegant and re- 
cherche dishes. The hot hors d'oeu- 
vre does not preclude the cold at 
the same dining. 

The following form the list of the 
greater number of 

Cold Relishes. 

Hors d'Oeuvres Frolds. 

BadishTes, Celery, Olives, Cress, 
Lettuce, Roquette, Pickled Onions, 
Sliced Cucumbers, Sliced Tomatoes, 
Pickles, Mangoes, Melons, Ancho- 
vies, Sardines, Lyonnaise Sausage 
(Saucissons Lyonnaise), Bread and 
Butter, 1 Crackers, Anch,ovy Sand- 
wiches, Ham Sandwiches, Cheese 
Sandwiches, Bologna Sausage cut and 
sliced. Cold Ham, Pigs' Feet, a Craw- 
fish Bush (Buisson d'iicrevlsses), a 
Shrimp Bush (Buisson de Chevrettes), 
Boiled Crawfish, River Shrimp on 
Ice, Oysters on Half Shell, Raw Oys- 
ters, Sliced or Quartered Lemon, 
Salted Almonds, Salted Peanuts, Ca- 
napes of Caviare, Ham, Crab, etc. 

Among the more elegant 

Hot Relishes 

(Hors d'Oeuvres Chauds) 

may be mentioned the following: 

Petits pates au Jus (or small hot 
patties of meats, etc.), Boudins Noirs 
et Blancs (Boudin Sausages, white 
and black), Rissoles, Sausages with 
or without Truffles, Rognons a, la 
Brochette or Broiled Kidneys, Pigs' 
Feet, Bouchfies d'Huitres or Oyster 
Patties, Fried Brains (whether 9f 
mutton or veal). Calves' Feet, Oxtail . 
with Vinegar or Mustard Sauce. 

Almost all the above named Hors 
d'Oeuvres, whether hot or cold, have 
been already treated in the special 
departments, whether of vegetables 
or meats, to which they pertain. The 
subjoined recipes, however, have been 
especially prepared, the number and 
variety of our Creole Hors d'Oeuvres 
being such as to. warrant a special 
chapter on the subject. 



Anchovies in Oil. 

Anchoix a, I'Huile. 

1 Pint Bottle of Boned AncbOTlea. 

1 Eard-Bolled Egg. 

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. 

Take the contents of one pint bot- 
tle of boned Anchovies; drain them 
of all oil on a cloth and then ar- 
range nicely in a flat glass or china 
celery or radish dish. Take a hard- 
■boiled egg, hash or slice daintily and 
decorate the dish with this. Sprinkle 
over some chopped parsley and serve. 

' Sardines In Oil. 

Sardines 3. I'Huile. 

1 Box of Sardines. 
'Parsley to Garnish. 

Take the sardines carefully from 
the box and avoid breaking them. 
Decorate a dish nicely with sprigs of 
parsley or watercress and lay the 
sardines upon, it and serve. 

Coqnllles of Chicken, Creole Style. 

Coquilles de Volaille a, la CrSole. 

The Breast of a Roasted Chicken. 

1 Ounce of Butter. 1 Truffle. 

4 Mushrooms. 1 Dozen GodlTean Quenellei. 

VA Pint of 'Madeira Sauce. 

Grated Bread Crumbs. 

Cut the chicken into dice-shaped 
pieces; take an ounce of butter and 
place in a saucepan; add the chicken; 
chop four mushrooms and one truffle 
and add. Make a dozen small Godi- 
veau Quenelles (see recipe), and add 
to the mixture in the saucepan; pour 
over a half pint of Madeira Sauce 
(see recipe), stir well and let all. 
cook for five minutes. Take a half 
dozen table shells and fill with this 
mixture. Sprinkle grated fresh bread 
crumbs over the tops, spTerad a little 
melted butter over each and place the 
shells on a baking dish. Place in a 
very hot oven and let them brown 
to a beautiful golden color. This 
will requft-e about six minutes. Place 
a folded napkin on a dish, set the 
shells upon it and send to the table 
hot. 

Cromeaqnles with Truffles. 

Cromesquies aux TrufEes. 

1 Boasted Chicken. 2 Trnfflei. 

1 Pint of Veloute Sauce. 

6 Pieces of Creplnette. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Nutme*. 

Roast the chicken, then bone and 

hash the meat. Make a pint of Vel- 



227 



out6 Sauce; chop the truffles very 
fine and place ..the chicken and the 
truffles and sauce in a saucepan to- 
gether. Season to taste with salt 
and pepper, and add a dash of nut- 
meg. Cover and let all cook for ten 
minutes, occasionally, however, stir- 
ring to prevent burning'. Then take 
from the fire and let cool by pouring 
Into a flat dish. Spread out to about 
an inch in thickness and divide into 
six parts. Prepare six pieces of Cre- 
pinette and roll each one of the six 
parts of chicken Into the skin. Have 
ready a flour batter and dip each Cre- 
pinette into the batter and fry In 
boiling lard for five minutes, or un- 
til slightly brown. Drain thoroughly 
on a cloth, place a nice folded nap- 
kin on a dish; set the cromesqules 
upon it; decorate with fried parsley 
and serve hot. 

Cromesquies of game, veal or any 
meats may be made in the same man- 
ner, 

Creole Timbales. 

Timbales Creoles. 

2 Raw Chicken Breasts. 

I Cup of Bread, Soaked in Hllk. 

% Tablespoontal of Bntter. 

The Yolks of Four Eggs. 

3 Tablespoonfnls of Yeloate Sance. 

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 

6 Plain Pancakes. 1 Gill Madeira Sauce. 

Cut up into medium-sized pieces 
two raw chicken breasts; pound them 
in a mortar with the same quantity 
of bread soaked in milk, a half ta- 
blespoonful of fresh butter and the 
yolks of four eggs; season with salt 
and pepper and a dash of Cayenne; 
mix all well together, and then mix 
In a bowl with three tablespoonfuls 
of Veloute Sauce. (See recipe.) But- 
ter the half dozen small timbale 
molds and line them with plain pan- 
cake. (See recipe). Fill the molds 
with the chicken mixture and cover 
with small round pieces of pancake. 
Steam them In a moderate oven for 
about ten minutes. Then take out 
of the oven and remove the timbales 
from the mold; garnish a hot dish 
nicely with sprigs of parsley, place 
the timbales upon it, pour over a 
gill of hot Madeira Sauce and send 
to the table hot 

Qneen of the Carnival Cronstades. 

Croustades a. la Reine du Carnaval. 

6 Qnenelles (Chicken or Godivean). 2 Troffles. 

1 Sweetbread. 6 Kidneys. 

1 Pint of Allemande Sauce. 

% Glass of White Wine. 

% Pound of Foundation Paste. 

Cracker Dust for Filling. 

Prepare six Quenelles, either chick- 
en or Godiveau (see recipe) and place 
in a, saucepan with a half glass of 
white wine. Seasoti the wine first 
with a little salt and pepper. Add 



the mushrooms and the truffles all 
cut into dice-shaped pieces. Poach 
for six or eight minutes, and then 
take one pint of hot Allemande Sauce 
and put all this mixture into it. Let 
all stand on the hot stove for five 
minutes and in the meanwhile spread 
out a quarter of a pound of Foun- 
dation Paste (Pa,te-a.-FonPsr, see re- 
cipe) to the thickness of an eighth of 
an inch; line six tartlet molds with 
this and fill with cracker crumbs 
that have been pounded into a dust. 
Cover with a buttered paper and set 
in the oven and bake for ten minutes. 
Then take out, remove all the crack- 
er dust and fill the molds with tha 
hot mixture of chicken, etc. Set In 
the oven for three minutes, dress 
nicely on a hot dish and serve hot. 

Lamb STreetbreads In Cases, 

Biz de Veau d'Agneau en Petites 
Caisses. 

e Lamb Sweetbreads. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 

I Small Onion. 1 Sballot. S Mushroom!. 

% Clove of Garlic. 

1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parslejr. 

1 Sill of Sauce Espagnole. 

Clean and pare and blanch the 
sweetbreads. (See recipe.) Then set 
aside to cool. Lard nicely with very 
fine larding needles. Put two table- 
spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan 
land add the sweetbreads. Pour over 
one glass of Madeira Wine, cover 
well with the onion, shallot, mush- 
rooms, clove of garlic and parsley, 
all minced very fine. Cover with a 
piece of buttered paper and set in 
the oven for ten minutes or until 
they are a nice golden brown color. 
Then take out of the oven and lay 
the sweetbreads on a dish. Set the 
saucepan back on the stove and add 
a gill of Sauce Bspagnole (see re- 
cipe.) Let all cook for five minutes. 
Have ready six small boxes of but- 
tered paper; pour a little of the gra- 
vy in the bottom of each case, then 
place a sweetbread in each and set in 
a baking dish; set the dish in the 
open oven for five minutes; then ar- 
range a napkin nicely in a dish, set 
the cases of sweetbreads upon it and 
send to the table hot. 

Macaroni Croquettes. 

Croquettes de Macaroni. 

% Pound of Macaroni. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

% Tablespoonful of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 

1 Tablespoonful of Cooked Smoked Tongue, 

Cut Very Fine. 

1 Minced Truffle. 1 Egg. 

3 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Fresh Bread 

Crumbs. 
Boil the Macaroni. (See recipe.) 
Then drain well. Put a tablespoonful 
of butter into a saucepan, add the 



228 



Macaroni, and sprinkle over the grat- 
ed cheese and the minced smolced 
tongue and truffle. Toss all together 
nicely and then spread out evenly. 
Then set aside to cool. When cool, 
cut the preparation into six equal 
parts and roll each in grated Par- 
mesan cheese, then in a well-beaten 
egg, and afterwards in freshly-grat- 
ed bread crumbs. Have ready a pan 
of boiling lard, fry the Croquettes in 
the lard for five minutes, then drain 
well, place on a dish on a folded nap- 
kin and serve hot. 

Royal Salpicon. 

Salpicon Royale. 

Sweetbreads. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

12 Mushrooms. 2 Truffles. 

1 Pint of Sauce AUemande. 

Clean, pare and blanch the sweet- 
breads. Then cut into very small 
pieces and put them into a sauce- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter; let them saut€ a moment and 
then add the mushrooms and truffles 
all cut very fine. Add a pint of 
Sauce AUemande (see recipe), and let 
the mixture cook on a slow fire for 
six or eight minutes, tossing gently 
all the while. Add a teaspoonful of 
butter, stir well and use for any gar- 
nishing desired. 

Salpicon, Hunters' Style. 

Salpicon a la Chasseur. 
The Breasts of 2 Fine Partridges. 
1 TablespooDful of Butter. 12 Whole Peppers. 
1 Glass of Madeira Wine. 
1 Class of Good Sherry Wine. 
6 Blanched Chicken Livers. 
1 Carrot. % Onion. 

1 Ounce of Cooked Beef Tongue. 
2 Truffles. € Mushrooms. 1 Bay Leaf. 
1 Sprig of Thyme. Sguare Inch of Lean Ham. 
1 Quart of Consomme or Broth. 
Cut the breasts of the Partridges 
Into dice-shaped pieces, and then put 
them into a saucepan with a table- 
spoonful of butter. Pour over a glass 
of good Sherry wine and set on a 
hot fire. Add the blanched chicken 
livers, the truffle cut into dice-shaped 
pieces and the mushrooms cut very 
fine. Have already, prepared a "Fu- 
met of Game," made by placing one 
carrot, one-halt of a small onion, one 
bay leaf, one square inch of ham, 
one sprig of thyme, and the carcass 
of the partridge Into a covered sauce- 
pan with a tablespoonful of butter. 
Let these brown well and add a glass 
of Madeira Wine. Let it come to a 
boil, then moisten with one quart of 
broth or consommg, and salt and pep- 
per to taste; add twelve whole black 
peppers. Let all cook for three- 
quarters of an hour, until it is re- 
duced to a pint, and strain through 
a napkin. Add this to the salpicon 
and let all cook for five minutes long- 
er. Use as a garnish for any dish de- 
aired. 



Creole Salpicon. 

Salpicon a. la Crfiole. 

2 Dozen Crawfish. 3 Tomatoes. 

1 Dozen Mushrooms, 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 
2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 
1 Pint of Boiling Milk. 
1 Teaspoonful of Grated Nutmeg. 
1 Herb Bouquet. 12 Whole Black Peppers. 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter 
into a saucepan and add the flour; 
fetir constantly for about five min- 
utes; then moisten well with the 
milk, pouring it in gradually and 
then whisking. Add the grated nut- 
taeg, salt to taste, and the twelve 
whole peppers. Add a herb bouquet, 
minced fine, and let all cook for a 
quarter of an hour. Then rub well 
through a sieve; and put into a sauce- 
pan with the tomatoes, skinned and 
chopped fine, and the meat of the 
crawfish cut into dice-shaped pieces, 
and the minced mushrooms. Let all 
cook for five minutes and serve. 

Louisiana Salpicon. 

Salpicon Louisianaise. 

50 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Mushrooms. 
1 Truffle. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 
1 Grated Nutmeg. 1 Herb Biyuquet. 
1 Glass of White Wlnt>. 
3 Tomatoes. 
' Clean aad' scale the Shrimp anci 
tioil according to" recipe. Then fol- 
low in all particulars the recipe giv- 
en above for Salpicon Creole, with 
the exception that White Wine is 
used instead of milk, and a truffle 
Is added to the minced vegetables. 
Send to the table hot. 

Salpicon fl la Montglas. 

Salpicon a. la Montglas. 

The Breasts of 2 Small Chickens, or Any 
Game. 
1 Ounce of Lean Ham. 
1 Gill of Madeira Sauce. 
1 Gill of Tomato Sauce. 
6 Mushrooms. 1 Truffle. 

Mince the breasts of the chicken 
or game very fine, mince the ham 
'truffles aftd mushrooms, and put all 
into a saucepan with, a gill of Ma- 
deira Sauce and one gill of Toma- 
to Sauce. Let all cook for five min- 
utes, and then use as a garnish. 

Salpicon, Financier Style. 

Salpicon a, la Financifere. 

The Legs and Breasts of a Chicken. 

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 

1 Dozen Small Godlyeau Quenelles. 

1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Truffle. 

S Mushrooms. 1 Pint of Madeira Sauce. 

Cut the chicken into dice-shaped 

pieces, and put into a saucepan with 

the butter; add the square inch of 

ham, the truffles and mushrooms, all , 

minced fine; and then add twelve 



229 



small Godiveau Quenelles. (See re- 
cipe.) ■ Add a pint of Madeira Sauce 
(see recipe) ; set on the stove, and 
let all cook for five or eight min- 
utes, and the Salpicon is ready to be 
served as a garnish for any dish 
desired. 

R«ed Bird Fatties. 

pates d'Ortolans. 

1 Dozen Reed Birds. 1 Salpicon Bo7al. 

Vi Pound ol Foundation Paste. 

Pick and clean the birds and sea^ 
son well; then bind each with a thin 
strip of bacon. Make a Foundation 
Paste (Pat6-a,-Foncer) and line six 
patty molds with this. Put in a 
moderate oven and bake for fifteen 
minutes; then empty them and let 
them dry well in the open oven for 
five minutes. Let them cool. Then 
fill the bottom of each mold with a 
tablespoonful of Salpicon Royal (see 
recipe), and place in each mold two 
of the nicely prepared birds. Lay 
the patties on a baking dish or 
roasting pan and set in the oven, 
whose heat must be moderate, and 
let them roast for fifteen or twenty 
minutes. Then remove from the 
oven, moisten each patty with a ta- 
blespoonful of hot Madeira Sauce, and 
send to the table hot. 

Tamales. 

Des Tamales. 

1 Tender Young CliiclseQ. 

1 Cup of Boiled Irish Potatoes. 

1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leal. 

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Spoon of Butter. 

1 Cup of Cracker Crumbs. 

Salt and Pepper, to Taste. 

A Good Dash of Cayenne. 

Boil a young chicken until the 

meat can be picked off the bones. 

_ Then chop up very fine. Mince the 

<>nion, clove of garlic, thyme, bay 



leaf, and parsley, very flne. Put the 
onion and butter' into a saucepran and 
let brown slightly; and add the 
minced' garlic, thyme, parsley and 
bay leaf. Add the chicken immedi- 
(ately and one cup of mashed pota- 
toes and grated cracker crumbs. Stir 
well, and season to taste with salt 
and Chili pepper. Add a good dash 
of Cayenne, for this, is a very hot 
dish. Mix all well by stirring and 
let cook for five minutes. Have ready 
a pot of boiling water and . about a 
dozen nice, clean corn-shuck leaves. 
Cut the leaves into nice oblong 
shapes, and divide the chicken mix- 
ture into equal parts. Roll each of 
these parts into a Qorn leaf and tie, 
and immerse in- boiling water for 
five minutes. Then drain off the wa- 
ter, arrange the husks on a dish and 
send to the table hot, serving Just 
before the meal begins as an appe- 
tizer. This is a famous Mexican* 
Creole Hors-d'Oeuvre. Tamales are 
also eaten hot for supper or luncheon. 

Pickled Tunny. 

Thon Marine. 

In New Orleans we only get the 
tunny in its pickled or other pre- 
pared states. Take a radish or flat 
celery dish; decorate nicely with 
"fresh parsley sprigs, or cress, or as- 
paragus tips; lay the tunny upon it, 
and serve as a cold Hors d'Oeuvre. 

I 
liyonnalse Snnsage. 

Saucissons de Lyonnaise. 

12 Thin Slices of Lyonnaise Sausage. 

Parsley^ Sprigs' to Garnish. 
Cut from a medium-sized Lyonnaise 
sausage twelve nice and very thin 
slices; decorate a dish nicely with 
parsley leaves on the outer edges. 
Lay the saucisson de Lyons in the 
center and serve as a cold hors 
d'oeuvre. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 
SWEET EXTRBMETS. 

Des Entremets SucrSs. 



Sweet entries and entremets are 
■^not the least part of the real Cre- 
ole cuisine. The ancient French 
colonists brought the custom of serv- 
ing sweet entremets and entrfis, such 
as Belgnets, Compotes, Soufll6s, Ge- 
16es, etc., from the old mother country 
■ to Louisiana. The Creoles appHied 
these to the various delightful and 
refreshing fruits which abound In 
Louisiana. When the little Creole 



children, taking a peep into the 
kitchen, as children will do in every 
clime, saw that the fat and cheery 
■old negro cook was going to make 
'Apple Fritters, Orange Fritters, or 
cook fried bananas for dinner, there 
■was always some very endearing 
'term applied to the old Creole cui- 
'siniSre, and she never failed to re- 
spond in the wholesome and practi- 
cal way that ' the Creole cooks of 
those days did, by handing a beauti- 



230 



ful golden beignet, piled with snowy 
sugar, to the expectant little ones. 
The custom of serving these sweet 
entremets spread from 'New Orleans 
to other portions of the United States, 
till now no fastidious chef would 
think of keeping a fashionable hotel 
or restaurant without including some 
of these in the daily bill of fare. 
The following are the ancient and 
most accepted forms of preparing 
sweet entrfies and entremets a. la 
Creole. All compotes of fruits may 
be served either as entremets or des- 
serts. 

FRITTBRS. 

Des Beignets. 

The most important rule to be ob- 
served in making fritters, whether 
of fruit or plain, is to have the bat- 
ter of the proper consistency. This 
Is particularly important in making 
fruit fritters. "La Pates k Beignets," 
as the Creoles call the batter, must 
be of sufficient consistency to en- 
velop in one single Immersion the 
fruit or