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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924080109832
A TIME-HONORED HANDY DEVICE
Handy
Farm Devices
and
How to Make Them
By Rolfe Cobleigh
Associate Editor American Agriculturist
ILLUSTkATED
NEW YORK
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
1912
Copyright, 1909) by
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
All Rights Reserved.
Feinted in U. S. A.
By Way of IntrodacUon
SUCCESS comes to the man who so works
that his efforts will bring the most and the
best results — not to the man who simply
works hard. It is the know-how, things-to-
do-with and economy that count. Labor-saving
machinery has revolutionized many a trade and
industry. It has made farming an industry and a
science of possibilities undreamed of and unattain-
able a hundred years ago. But it is not enough for
the modern farm to be equipped with the best tools
and machinery that shops and factories turn out, to
know how to use them and keep them in repair.
There are many handy devices, not made in any
factory and not sold in any store, that every intel-
ligent man can make himself, which save money
and labor and time. Inventive men are constantly
contriving simple but valuable things to meet the
needs of their own practical experience. We are all
the time hunting after and gathering these ideas.
Now we are putting a lot of the best ones into this
book. We are trying, by words and pictures, to
explain clearly Just how to make each device.
Everything described is tried and practical. Some
are old, many are new, alF are good for the purpose
intended. They represent the practical, successful
experience of farmers and other wide-awake
workers all over the United States,
4 HANDY FARM DEVICES
This book is broader than its title. The over-
flow of good measure includes a valuable chapter
on the steel square and its uses. Nowhere else has
this subject been handled in a way so easily under-
stood, with confusing mathematics cut out. We
especially commend this chapter to our readers.
We also present some good house and barn plans,
that will be appreciated by those who contemplate
building.
In addition to the direct benefit to be derived
from doing what the book tells how to do, we have
in mind the larger purpose of education toward
putting more thought into our work and doing
what we have to do the easiest, the cheapest and
the quickest way. Out of it all, we trust our
readers will make progress toward greater pros-
perity, greater happiness and greater usefulness.
CONTENTS BY CHAPTERS
Page
Workshop and Tools ..... 7
The Steel Square . . . », . 19
In and Around the House . ;. « ;. 37
Barns and Stock . . . . , 83
Poultry and Bees • .; :« «, , 115
Garden and Orchard . :., w w .: 131
Field and Wood . . . m ;« .154
Gates and Doors . x cj m . I74
When We Build . ,., . », ;. 189
Worth Knowing . . . ..1 «; 233
"VNTORK • Sff OP
•AND ■ TOOLS •
THE FARMER'S WORKSHOP
"■n^^^'lHERE is no doubt that of all the
» H handy farm devices good tools
*RJ^ H head the list. So, in this book, we
QmK JI^ are going to start with carpenter
tools and the place to keep and use
them. Every farmer ought to have
a workshop in which he can do odd
jobs and make things when the weather prevents
out-of-door work, or at times when there is little to
do on the form. Economy and thrift demand that
a farmer should have and keep in good condition
a few essential carpenter tools. First of all he
should have a long, strong, smooth-top bench and,
either on racks above the bench or in a tool chest,
he should keep in order, and where he can easily
find them when wanted, his stock of carpenter
tools. Some of the tools that will be found useful
are the following:
A rip saw, a crosscut saw, a back saw, and a
compass saw; a jack plane, a fore plane, and a
smoothing plane; a shave or drawing knife; two
or three chisels of different sizes for woodworking
and a cold chisel for metal ; a gouge or two ; a good
hatchet; two or three hammers, including a tack
hammer and a bell-faced claw hammer; a brace
or bit stock with a set of half a dozen or more bits
of different sizes ; one or more gimlets ; a mallet ; a
nail set, a large screw driver and a small one; a
gauge; a spirit level; a miter box; a good car-
penter's square — No. loo is a good standard size;
8 HANDY FARM DEVICES
compasses or dividers ; cut nippers, a pair of small
pincers and a pair of large ones; a rasp; a large,
flat file; at least one medium-sized three-cornered
file and a half-round file.
It is poor economy to buy cheap tools. Of course
extravagance is to be avoided, but be sure that you
get first-class material in every tool you buy. It is
a good plan to get a good practical carpenter to
assist you in selecting your tools. Keep on hand in
the shop a variety of nails, brads and tacks, screws,
rivets, bolts, washers and nuts, and such small
articles of builders' hardware that are likely to be
needed occasionally, including hinges, hasps and
staples and some sand-paper. Have a good plumb
line, chalk and pencils. Keep in a handy place a
jar of a good liquid glue, and some cement. See to
it that the shop contains a good stock of well-sea-
soned lumber, both hard wood and soft.
Attached to the bench should be a bench screw
or vise. This need not be an expensive one, but
should be of good size and strong. There should
also be a pair of carpenter's saw benches, a shaving
horse, a small anvil and a grindstone. Every
farmer has a grindstone somewhere about the
buildings, but it is a great convenience to have a
good one in the workshop.
A corner of the shop should be devoted to paint-
ing supplies, including several colors of good
Standard ready-mixed paints and stains, raw linseed
oil, boiled linseed oil, turpentine, varnish, putty,
points for setting glass, several brushes of different
sizes, a good putty knife and panes of glass of dif-
ferent sizes ready for emergency.
A farmer ought to be able to do occasional little
jobs of soldering. He needs soldering iron, a bar
of solder, resin, a little bottle of soldering fluid.
WORKSHOP AND TOOLS 9
which can be purchased already prepared, also a
small sheet-iron furnace in which to heat the sol-
dering iron.
It would cost quite a tidy sum to buy all these
things at once, but they can be gradually accumu-
lated as one is able to purchase them, and then the
outfit should be kept complete. Whenever any-
thing in the shop is broken, worn out, or disappears
it should be replaced.
Whenever farm implements or anything about
the barn or house are broken or out of order, they
should be properly fixed. Often a few minutes
spent at the right time will make a thing almost
as good as new, while, if neglected, it may soon get
beyond repair and have to be thrown away. A
thrifty farmer always keeps his farm implements
well housed and in repair. It is not what we earn,
but what we save, that makes us rich. It is quite
as important to stop the leaks as it is to figure on
big profits directly.
RUNNING THE GRINDSTONE
If the face of the grindstone is hard and glazed
pour a little sand on the stone every few minutes
until the glaze is worn off and the stone will cut
like a new one. This condition is caused by ex-
posing the stone to the weather. It is best to keep
the stone in a shed under cover, but if this is not
possible, set it under a tree and put a box over it
when not in use. It is surprising how easy a little
oil on the bearings will make the stone run. A few
drops of kerosene will cut the gum if it runs hard
and then some oil or axle grease will make it go
easy.
It is hard to stand on one foot and work the
10 HANDY FARM DEVICES
treadle with the other. The job can be made easy
by bolting two boards to the grindstone frame, and
extending it 2 feet, on which place a seat as shown
HANDY GRINDSTONE RIG
in the cut. An uneven stone needs to be cut down
and toned up. This can be done by grinding against
the end of a piece of pipe, having the stone dry.
Good nature is as contagious as the measles. Put
on your best smile when you get up in the morning
and observe how everybody will greet you with a
sunny face.
A HOMEMADE ANVIL
A homemade anvil can be constructed from a
4-foot piece of railroad rail mounted on a trestle, as
shown in the sketch. This affair will stand a lot
WORKSHOP AND TOOLS
II
of heavy pounding, and comes in handy in many
ways. The rail is just about the right shape to
make an anvil.
RAIL ANVIL
MAKING A NEW TOOL
A very handy wrench for many kinds of work,
such as making gates and con-
trivances, where small bolts are
used, is shown in the cut. From
4 small monkey wrench remove
the wooden handle, and weld the
metal part to an old bit-stock,
as shown in the cut. This per-
mits of very rapid work in screw-
ing up small bolts. Where there
are so many things to do as there
are on a farm, it pays to do
things in the easiest and quickest ^"'^"STOCK wrench
way. This is one of the real time-savers.
Learn to live, and live to learn,
Ignorance like a fire doth burn,
Little tasks make large return. — Bayard Taylor-
12 HANDY FARM DEVICES
HOW TO MAKE A SHAVING HORSE
One of the most useful devices on a farm is a
shaving horse. Make a bench i8 feet high of a
good 2-inch plank, c, level oflf the edges so that it
will make a comfortable seat. Upon this place a
slanting platform, b, through which is cut a hole
in which the clamp, a, works.
The clamp must be made of heavy hard wood
that is tough and will not split. The shank, /, must
SHAVING HORSE
be an extension of the clamp, a. Several holes in
the plank will allow the clamp to be raised so as
to take in larger pieces of wood. The treadle, g, is
kept in place by a peg at h. To operate this horse
the workman places his foot upon the treadle,
inserts the wood to be clamped under the edge of a,
and pushes backward upon the treadle. This
clamps the wood and the drawing knife can be used
readily and much more rapidly than with a vise.
A CONVENIENT FARM HORSE
On the farm there is continual use for such a
horse as is shown in the drawing. Not only when
WORKSHOP AND TOOLS 1$
doing little jobs of carpentering, but also in many
other operations, such a support is found neces-
sary. This little horse is an improvement over the
ordinary sti£E affair, in that it shuts together when
not in use, and so can be packed out of the way.
HORSE READY FOR USE
It is made of boards cut in strips, the two hori-
zontal boards at the top being hinged together, as
shown herewith. While in use the legs are kept
apart by long hooks, as may be plainly seen in the
picture.
When tillage begins, other arts follow. The farm-
ers, therefore, are the founders of human civili-
zation. — Daniel Webster.
A WIRE SPLICER
The neatest and strongest splice can be made
with this little instrument. It is a strip of iron I
inch wide and }i inch thick. One end is cut nar-
row and is bent into a hook large enough to fit
14
HANDY FARM DEVICES
■neatly the largest wife to be spliced. At the sides
of this two notches are filed, as shown at the left.
-At the right the splicer is seen in position on the
wire. The splicer
should be turned ( (f \
backward, as it ap-
pears in the right-
hand drawing, to
make the splice. A
pair of large pin-
cers or a vise
should be used
to hold the two
wires between the
coils while turning
the splicer. The
splice as finished appears above. The length of
the handle may vary. If the splicer is to be used
for net wire, of course the handle cannot be longer
than the width of the mesh. Otherwise, 6 or 7
inches is about right for No. 8 wire. If it is to be
used only for small wire, the length of the handle
should be reduced for the sake of convenience.
WIRE SPLICING
SERVICEABLE HOMEMADE LEVEL
A serviceable level is shown in the illustration.
Take two i-inch boards of rather hard wood, well-
seasoned, 2 to 3 feet long, bolt or screw them
together at right angles. This
union must be so strong as never
to be moved by ordinary pressure.
At the top of the perpendicular
piece cut a slit and insert a piece
of strong thread. To the bottom
LEVEL of the thread tie a thin circular
WORKSHOP AND TOOLS
15
weight. Lay the device across two trestles of nearly
the same level. Just above the weight mark the
place where the string hangs. Reverse the posi-
tion of the instrument by turning it end for end,
and again mark the position of the string. Half
way between the two marks place a third. When
the string hangs over this mark the lower board
will be level. A shield of tin may be placed over
the weight. A nail on each side of the string, just
above the weight, will keep it from swinging far
out of place. It must be allowed to swing freely.
A simple level may be improvised by filling a
small flat bottle with water, so that only a bubble
of air remains, and attaching it lengthwise and
near the middle of a straight stick or narrow
board.
TO MAKE A HANDLE STAY ON
To secure the handle of a hammer or ax is often
quite a bothersome problem. A special wedge made
with a piece of wood as at a, in
the sketch, held in place by a
fence staple, b, has been devised
to meet the need for a wedge
that really holds. The prongs of
the staple should be bent slightly
outward before it is driven in, so
that they will spread in the han-
dle. There is little danger of
handles coming loose when they
are attached in this manner, and
it is little more difficult to set a handle as indicated
than in the old-fashioned way.
HOLDS WEDGE
1 6 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A TOOL BOX REQUISITE
Among the handiest things to have in the tool
box are some small bolts about 2 inches long with
thumb nuts. A dozen or so of these will prove
their, value many times over in the course of a year.
In making tables for fairs or suppers or in any sort
of knock-down arrangement, or temporary con-
venience where strength is essential, nothing sur-
passes a bolt of this description. With a brace
and a bit the right size, one may be entirely inde-
pendent of nails and screws.
A farmer friend of ours was once called upon to
make a fence about a child's crib without any mar-
ring nails. A slot in the fence post with a thumb
bolt just above the crib line gave an alligator jaw
result which was very satisfactory. On another
occasion a knock-down stage was carried from the
storeroom in pieces and put together by two men
in 20 minutes. An actual computation of its
strength showed that a locomotive might safely
run over it.
The man referred to above has 100 feet of tables
for hall purposes, depending entirely upon the 2-
inch bolt and thumb nut for their fastenings and
braces. There is never any trouble about knock-
ing out nails. To one having a brace and bit these
handy things will suggest of themselves many satis-
factory uses. A supply of iron washers should be
kept in hand, and in time a collection of various
sizes of wooden washers will accumulate.
SOLDERING
Soldering may be done by anyone having a very
simple outfit. All that is required is a copper sol-
WORKSHOP AND TOOLS I7
dering iron, some solder, a vial of muriatic acid
and some resin. A fairly successful job of solder-
ing a tin dish may be done by scraping the surface
bright where the hole is, sprinkling on a little finely
powdered resin, laying on a bit of solder and hold-
ing the dish over a flame, which may be from an
alcohol lamp, until th* solder melts. It will cover
the hole and stick. If the dish is rusty or badly
tarnished use muriatic acid in place of resin.
Resin works best when tin is bright, but usually
solder sticks most successfully when the acid is
used.
For soldering large breaks or doing important
jobs of soldering the iron must be used. In order
to work well the iron has to be kept coated with
solder. When it gets blackened it should be filed
until bright and then rubbed upon a smooth board
while hot in a mixture of melted solder and resin.
When the hot iron is taken from the fire wipe it on
a damp cloth before trying to use it to lift the
melted solder. A soldering iron is best heated in
charcoal or the coals of a wood fire. The copper
should never get red hot, as that causes the coating
of the point to be burned ofJ. The metal to be
soldered must always be heated before the solder
will unite it.
Solder may be obtained in bars at any tin shop.
It can be made by melting together 2 parts of lead
and I of bar tin. This is the usual proportion for
most purposes. Soft solder that will melt quickly
and can be easily used for mending tinware can be
made of pure lead and tin in equal parts. A hard
solder is made by melting together 2 parts of cop-
per to I of tin. Brazing solder is made by melting
together brass and one-sixth its weight of zinc.
When cool it should be granulated by pounding
1 8 HANDY FARM DEVICES
with a hammer. For soldering steel and iron to
brass the following combination of metal is melted
together, 3 parts tin, 39J4 copper, and 7^ zinc.
Before it is applied, all the metals to be jointed
together must be heated to the same temperature
as the soldering alloy. Gold solder is made of 24
parts gold, 2 parts silver and i part copper. A
hard silver solder is made of 4 parts silver to i of
copper. A soft silver solder is made of 2 parts
silver to i of brass.
7
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Use of the Steel Square
BY J. HAMILTON ELLIOT
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A steel square, often
called a carpenter's
square, can be found in
almost any kit of me-
chanic's tools and a
little knowledge of
this instrument will
aid the user to perform
many problems easily
and quickly that other-
wise might prove dif-
ficult. Squares of dif-
ferent kinds and mate-
rials have been used by
mechanics in all ages.
The first were made of
wood and were used
in the construction of
the earliest buildings of which we
have historic record. The squares
of today are made of steel, finely
polished and stamped with many
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19
20 HANDY FARM DEVICES
figures, tables and rules, according to the taste of
the manufacturer and the special mechanic for
whom they are designed.
We will not attempt to deal with the several
special kinds or makes, taking up only a few of
the possibilities of the standard 2-foot square. This
is 2 feet long on the blade, which is two inches
wide, and it is i6 or i8 inches on the tongue or
angular leg. The latter is 15^ inches wide. Be-
ginning at the heel or corner of the square, inches
and fractions of inches are marked. It is neces-
sary that the marking be in this way, in order to
form the different combinations desired in connec-
tion with the different problems which have to be
solved. A few of these problems are explained in
the following pages.
LUMBER RULE
On the side of the blade of the square that is
divided into inches and eighths is placed the lum-
ber rule or scale. This is used for computing the
number of feet in board measure contained in a
given board or piece of lumber. We show a
picture of a section cut from the center of
the lumber rule. The space running length-
wise of the blade between the parallel lines,
contains the number of feet board measure
for a given width of board. The first space is for
boards 8 inches wide, the second for those 9 inches
wide, the third for those 10 inches wide and so on.
To determine the space which should be used for
any given width, look under the 12-inch mark on
the outside edge of the blade. These numbers
give the width of the board, also the number of feet
board measure. If a board is 10 inches wide and
12 feet long, it contains 10 feet board measure.
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE
21
Now let it be required to find the number of feet
board measure in a board 13 inches wide and 11
feet long. Find the space for boards 13 inches
wide under the 12-inch mark on the square, follow
this space to the left and under the ii-inch mark
on the square will be found the answer desired:
II — II. This is read li feet and ^Yiz, and is the
number of feet board measure contained in a board
ill III Mill II II 11 II II II III II II III II II
111 12 13' 'l4
n
7-* 8- 8-8 <i-¥ 3
8-5 ft- 9-9 io-e \
9- a JO- K~JO JJ-B \
10- J 11- ii-ii m-io 1
11- n 13- if-i iS-&
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B-a 15- K~^ 17-6
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lLl ik lii jJi iL ill iL ill ilJ
LUMBER RULE
13 inches wide and 11 feet long. With a little
practice, anyone can measure lumber or timber and
check up his bills for this kind of material.
Do not confound foot board measure with square
feet. Square feet are in surface measure, with no
reference to thickness, while a foot board measure
is the equivalent of a foot square and i inch in
thickness. The square feet of a 3-inch plank would
contain 3 feet board measure.
After becoming familiar with the use of the lum-
ber rule, as described above, you will discover that
the space may be taken to contain the amounts for
a. given width and the different lengths in feet as
represented in the different columns, or the space
may be taken as containing the amounts for a
22
HANDY FARM DEVICES
given length and the different widths arranged in
columns; therefore, find either length in feet or
width in inches under the 12-inch mark and follow
this space until under the inch mark representing
the other measurement. In this space will be
found the feet board measure.
BRACE RULE
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE
23
THE BRACE RULE
The brace rule is on the tongue of the square,
and has a series of figures representing the rise or
vertical height, the run or horizontal reach and the
true length of a brace. For example, they are
written 2%^ 38 19 and 4%g 63 64. These would be read
27 inches run, 27 inches rise and a length of 38 and
i%oo inches, and 45 inches run, 45 inches rise and a
length of 63 and ^Yioo inches.
A glance at the illustration on page 22 will give
a good idea of the application of the brace rule
as it appears on almost any modern make of square.
FIGURE I
THE OCTAGON SCALE
There is an octagon scale on one side of the
tongue of the square, but we will not attempt to
explain its use, as there are easier and simpler
methods of obtaining the same result.
24
HANDY FARM DEVICES
One method is shown in Figure i. To obtaiti
the lines on a square stick where the corners should
come when converted into an octagon or eight-
sided stick: Lay the square on the one side of
the square stick at such an angle that the end of
the square will come exactly at the edges or cor-
ners of the stick, make a dot on the 7-inch mark
and at the 17-inch mark. Through these dots
gauge or mark a line parallel with the edge of the
stick. Continue this operation on all of the four
sides. This gives the lines for the corners of an
octagon. In making a flag-pole or spar for a boat
or to round any large stick this is the operation
used by all mechanics doing the work by hand.
THE MITER BOX
Of all homemade devices, one of the most fre-
quently used in the shop is the miter box. After
the box is put to-
gether it is a sim-
ple problem, with
the use of a steel
square, to make
the cuts necessary
to intersect two
pieces of wood, as
shown in Figure
2. First, the box
must be straight
and true and the
sides form a
perfect right
angle or square
with the bottom.
Lay the steel
FIGURE 5A square on the top
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE
25
of the box so that the 12-inch mark on the blade
and the 12-inch mark on the tongue will both come
FIGURES S AND 4
26
HANDY FARM DEVICES
exactly on the edge of the box. This gives the
miter cut of the intersection of the angle of a per-
fect square, as shown in Figure 2. Figure 3 shows
the manner of placing the square on the box to give
the desired angle.
A sprung molding, which is a molding not solid
■on the back, as shown in Figure 4, must be placed
in the box bottom side up as shown in Figure 5, so
as to get a solid bearing to hold it. Cuts in the
box to miter around an eight-sided figure or an octa-
gon, as shown in 5A, can be obtained by using 7
inches and 17 inches, marking the cut on the 7-inch
side, as shown in Figure 5.
TRUING THE SQUARE
After obtaining a steel square, the first and most
essential thing is to test or prove it to see that it is
accurate, forming the angle of a perfect square.
FIGURE 6
Take a board planed on one side and straighten one
edge of it. perfectly as described under Making a
Straight Edge. Make a mark across this board
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE
27
with the square, as shown in Figure 6, Position A,
then reverse the square to Position B. If the
square is true it should exactly fit the mark made.
It is necessary to work very accurately, making
the mark with the point of a knife and having the
edge of the board absolutely straight.
If the square is found to be out or inaccurate, it
is not necessary to throw it away; it can be made
true by a simple method by any handy mechanic.
If you do not possess an anvil, make a substitute \3y
FIGURE 7
sticking the ax into a chopping block, lay the
square on the head of the ax so that the bearing
will come from the throat or inside angle to the
heel or outside of the square. To close up the
angle, strike with a hammer a sharp blow at a
point near the heel; to open the angle, strike near
the throat at a point indicated in Figure 7. Don't
strike too hard. Use a bell-face nail hammer and
the dent will not be noticed.
28
HANDY FARM DEVICES
A STRAIGHT EDGE
In connection with the work with the steel
square a straight-edged board is necessary to have
ready for immediate use. Procure a board 8 or
10 feet long of good, dry pine, free from knots and
6 to 8 inches wide. Plane the edge until it seems
FIGURE 8
straight to the eye, then lay it on the bench or on
another board and make a mark along the edge,
just straight with a fine lead pencil; reverse it or
turn it over and fit it to the other side of the pencil
line. This multiplies any inaccuracy or deviation
from a straight line. Make a new line each time
you plane the edge. Work with as long a plane
as you have and set the blade to take a fine shav-
ing. When the edge will fit both sides of the line
made from it while in one position, it is straight.
Figure 8 will give a clear idea of this operation.
RAFTERS
The common rafter for a pitch roof is easily laid
out with the steel square. There are many methods.
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE 29
but the easiest and most simple is by spacing. Two
dimensions, half the width of the building and the
height of the roof, are divided into an equal number
of parts. The width of half the building is called
the run and is usually divided into parts of 12
inches or a foot for convenience. The height is
called the rise, and is divided into an equal number
of parts. A glance at Figure 9 tells us that the run
there shown is 10 inches rise to 12 inches run.
FIGURE
When the square is laid on the stick to be cut
into a rafter, the lo-inch mark on the tongue and
the 12-inch mark on the blade are held so that they
come exactly even with the outside edge. The
blade then takes a level position and the tongue a
vertical position or plumb position. This gives the
proper level for the cut at the top of the rafter and
30 HANDY FARM DEVICES
the level cut at the top of the plate. As the square
now lies on the stick make a fine mark and move
the square along, marking another space. Mark
as many of these spaces as the parts into which
the rise and run were divided. This gives the
length of a rafter from the ridge to a point exactly
over the outside of the plate.
Where the rafter overhangs the plate, it is neces-
sary to square down or in to form the notch for the
plate. By studying Figure 9 you can readily see
the different positions taken by the square, also,
how and why the rise and run are divided into an
equal number of spaces. By this method the length
of the rafter is obtained without use of mathe-
matics.
STAIR STRINGER
The stair stringer is laid out in much the same
manner as the common rafter. The total rise of
height to go up is divided into parts of about 7j4
inches, as near as possible. This makes the easiest
step. The run is always divided into one less space
than the rise. The reason for this can be easily
understood by examining Figure 10. Lay the
square on the stick to be used as a stair stringer,
taking the numbers into which the rise and run
have been divided, mark, and slide the square along
until the required number of spaces are marked.
A little experience, with allowance made for the
surrounding conditions, and any handy mechanic
can lay out stringers for an ordinary flight of stairs.
To get an easy flight of stairs for the person of
average size where plenty of room can be used,
experience teaches that 7J^ inches rise and 10
Inches run or tread makes an easy flight.
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE
3i
From this some stair-building experts have put
together the following rule, which works very well
for the average stair: When the rise multiplied
by the tread equals 75, the run will be an easy
one, as 75^ inches rise by iQi/^ inches tread
equals 75 ; 8% inches rise by 9 inches tread equals
tiGURE 10
75; 8 inches rise by 93^ inches tread equals "jf),.
which is very near the desired result. When the
rise is 9 inches or over, the rule is not good, as the
tread must be shortened up much more, and the
rise should never be more than 11 inches — that is-
about the rise in an ordinary ladder leaning against.
a house.
32
HANDY FARM DEVICES
"
«
"
VVOOc*
xjfV^V^
^^•cSry
^^\^^j
A
«\>A
.- x>
H
y
^
_
FIGURE XI
THE 47TH PROBLEM OF EUCLID
The problem shown in Figure 11 is known as the
47th Problem of Euclid, and is an invention by an
ancient Greek ge-
ometer who sought
many years for a
method of finding
the length of the
hypothenuse of a
right angle triangle
in mathematics, and
when the method
was discovered, his-
tory tells us there
was great rejoicing.
Pythagoras is
credited with hav-
ing first proved the rule successfully applied to the
-problem.
The rule is that the square of the base
added to the square of the altitude equals the
square of the hypothenuse. The base of a
right angle triangle is the side on which it rests,
■marked B in Figure li. The altitude is
the height and is marked A in Figure 11. The
hypothenuse is the connecting side of the triangle,
marked H in Figure 11. The base, 6, squared or
multiplied by itself, equals 36. The altitude, 8,
squared, equals 64. By adding these together we
have 100, which is the square of the hypothenuse.
It femains but to extract the square root of 100,
which we know is 10, therefore 10 is the length of
the hypothenuse or third side of this right angle
triangle. All right angle triangles can be figured
in the same manner, but only multiples of the
' THE BIG BROTHER TAKES A HAND
H^'s a city chap now, but when he conies home, he
proves! ihat his early training has not been forgotten. Teacb
your tfey to use tools and use them right.
KEEP THE HAMMER BUSY
A NAIL IN TIME
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE 33
length of the three sides come even — such as 3, 4,
5 and 12, 16, 20, as shown in Figure 12 ; and many
others, of course.
THE RULE OF 6, 8 AND 10
This is a rule so extensively used in the building
trades and others that it has finally come to be
known by the above name. It is derived from the
47th Problem of Euclid, and is used in the manner
shown in Figure 13.
Measure 6 feet on the end sill of a building and
.8 feet on the side sill. If it measures 10 feet across
the angle the building is square. This is a very
•useful rule and easily remembered. It is always
available in running lines for batter boards for
masonry or lines for walks. By starting from a
corner stake into which a nail is driven, measure
off on the string or line used and insert a stake to
anark the place. Drive a nail into this stake and
34 HANDY FARM DEVICES
proceed in like manner on the other side. With a
little care and practice, quite a job of surveying
can be done by using a few stakes, a ball of string
and a tape or lo-foot pole.
FIGURE 13
ANGLES
An angle is the opening between two lines meet-
ing at a point. Angles are usually spoken of as being
of a number of degrees. The degrees are measured
on the circumference, the center of which is on the
point of the angle. There are 360 degrees of the
circumference of a circle. The surface of the-earth
is so divided north and south by the parallels of
latitude, which are numbered from the equator each
way; also east and west by the meridians of longi-
USE OF THE STEEL SQUARE
35
tude, which are numbered from Greenwich, Eng-
land. They can be seen on any map.
By the use of a protractor, the number of degrees
of any angle can be obtained. Figure 14 shows
one-half of a circle or 180 degrees.
FIGURE 14
PLOTTING ANGLES
To strike an angle in a field on a large scale
where one line is given or can be obtained, measure
off from the point of the angle 57%o feet; lay one
FIGURE IS
end of a lo-foot pole at this point. The other end
should' be swung around so that it also will be
57%o feet from the starting point. Each foot marks
36 HANDY FARM DEVICES
off I degree on the circumference of a circle whose
radius is S7%o feet. If more than 10 degrees are
required, continue as before, keeping the ends of the
lo-foot pole always on the circumference of the
circle from the starting point. A clear idea of this
operation can be obtained from Figure 15.
Labor is rest from the sorrows that greet us;
Rest from all petty vexations that meet us.
Rest from sin-promptings that ever entreat us.
Rest from world-sirens that hire us to ill.
Work — and pure slumbers shall wait on thy pillow ;
Work — thou shalt ride over Care's coming billow;
Lie not down wearied 'neath Woe's weeping willow 1
Work with a stout heart and resolute will !
— Frances S. Osgood.
^AROUND
THE STEP-SAVING DUMB WAITER
NE may save many steps in every
house where the kitchen is situ-
ated over the cellar, to say noth-
ing of other considerations,
with a small outlay of time,
and perhaps, without the ex-
penditure of a single dollaf, by
means of a dumb waiter,
which may be placed in
any convenient corner out of
the way. A handy size for
an ordinary family is 2 feet
square with four shelves,
counting the top, i foot apart.
These shelves may be hung
from the corners, the center or
the middle of the sides, by
means of manila sash cord
over pulleys placed close to the .^
ceiling of the kitchen and
nearly balanced with weights,
which should be confined in a
little case. They should be
guided in ascending and de-
scending by means of grooves
in the middle of the sides ex-
tending from top to bottom
of the inclosed case. In the
cellar the case may have a fine
37
DUMB WAITER'
38 HANDY FARM DEVICES
wire screen door and in the kitchen an ordinary
cupboard door or one with a glass front, as desired.
The doors should slide upward and be balanced
like an ordinary window with sash weights and
pulleys. In order to prevent the waiter from de-
scending when, being overloaded a pivoted wooden
latch, as shown on the right-hand side, should
engage with the ends of the shelves, and to pre-
vent any shock from too quick descent some coiled
springs should be placed at the bottom of the case.
If desired a small cupboard may be built at the top
of the case for storing little-used articles.
Some advantages of such a waiter are that food
may be placed on the shelves and lowered into the
cool cellar and either allowed to stay there or re-
moved to the refrigerator. Thus it will be unneces-
sary to carry anything to or from the cellar, and
this will often mean a saving of several trips up
and down. If the cellar is clean and cool there
may be no need to use a refrigerator or an ice box.
RACK FOR PRESERVES
A convenient rack for preserves may be made
just at the turn of the cellar stairs in a house, so
that the housewife need not step off the stairs,
when she descends for a can of preserves. Several
circular pieces of wood are pierced through the
centers and nailed to a kind of wooden shaft that
runs through the entire rack. Nail barrel hoops of
the thick, wide variety around the edge of the
shelves, so that the contents cannot fall off. The
barrel hoops are soaked in water for several hours to
make them pliable, so they can be fitted around the
shelves.
In a socket at the bottom, the middle shaft slips,
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 39
the upper end working in a socket in the end of a
stout piece of wood nailed to the beam overhead.
The sockets may be purchased at the hardware
store. The glass cans are arranged on the shelves,
and the housewife can stand in one spot and turn
the rack around until she finds the jar for which
she is looking.
From the covers of large cheese boxes anyone
could make a similar rack, using it in attic or
kitchen, anywhere where one wants a rack which
will hold an extra large number of articles for tfie
amount of space involved.
Ill husbandry braggeth
To go with the best :
Good husbandry baggeth
Up gold in his chest. — Tusser.
TRANSFORMING A WASHSTAND
The kitchen cabinet here shown was made from
an antiquated washstand and table, using old lum-
ber, odds and ends of varnish, nails and screws, the
finished article costing less than 50
cents. The only tools used were a
saw, hammer, plane and square,
such as can be found in any ^_______
farmer's collection. \
First, the shelf shown in Figure
I was made, it being wide enough
to reach each end of the table and
deep enough for the washstand to
set on it flush. To the right end figure i
was screwed a board of the same width, the shelf
being so placed that it would be 2 feet above the
40
HANDY FARM DEVICES
WASHSTAND AS
of the shelf, and the
gether. This left a
right end of the
washstand and the
right support of
the shelf. A board
was then nailed on
top from one end
to the other, and a
back added.
The drawer of
the washstand had
to be fixed so that
it would slide the
other way, as it
was now upside
down. That ne-
cessitated a shelf
inside the wash-
stand above the
drawer. Old lum-
ber was used, and
table. A board of
equal width form-
ed the support at
the other end.
Then the wash-
stand, from which
the top had been
removed, was
placed upside
down on the shelf
(bbb), one end of
the washstand
reaching to the
IT WAS extreme left end
two were securely fastened to-
narrow open space between the
THE COMPLETED CABINET
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 4I
this was smoothed with a plane, then sandpapered
and holes and cracks filled with putty. When the
putty was dry it was sandpapered again.
A support was then nailed to the back of the
recess for a spice cabinet. This left the cabinet
about 4 inches from the table. This support also
did for two shelves, one in each corner of the
recess. The spice cabinet contained eight small
drawers and added riiuch to the whole. A door
with a glass sash (e) was then made for the nar-
row space to the right of the washstand above the
recess. This made a little china closet with two
shelves and containing over a dozen brass cup
hooks. The space near the top on the left-hand
side, between the short legs of the washstand, was
left open for the crumb and draining trays. A
piece of batten was nailed around the top as a fin-
ishing touch.
A leaf, which could be raised when required,
added to the table room. The cabinet being placed
in a corner left the front and one end free. On this
end or side were placed two salt boxes, one for salt,
and the other for kitchen cloths. Directly above
these and reaching the length of the end was a shelf
(/) for the clock, etc. Finally, walnut varnish stain,
two coats, was applied. In each side of the recess
were screwed two large cup hooks. Similar hooKs
were screwed on the inside of the washstand doors,
to hang up biscuit cutter, corkscrew, nutmeg grater,
etc.
HOMEMADE DRESSER
Sometimes it is necessary to use homemade
makeshifts in the house furnishing, and sometimes
it is done through a desire to exercise one's in-
42
HANDY FARM DEVICES
genuity in fashioning simple affairs. The accom-
panying illustration shows a plan for making a
simple dresser that when finished will not only
be very useful in itself, but will also add a useful
bit of furnishing to the room.
/M7 ^
m
M
"/////.'
"//
ym
^W
'-.,'
DRESSER MADE FROM A BOX
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 43
Select a drygoods box of the right size to fit well
into the space to be utilized, then fit two shelves
to the interior, as suggested. The whole box should
be covered on the outside with some pretty cloth,
the edges being drawn over and around the front
edges of the box, and neatly tacked inside. Make
a shelf with a length equal to the width of the box
and fasten it to the wall above the box with some
pretty nickel brackets, as shown in illustration.
Cover the shelf with cloth, also. Now place a look-
ing-glass above the shelf and have a curtain like the
covering in front of the opening. This curtain can
have little brass rings sewed to the upper edge,
which will slide on a small brass rod.
Dost thou love life? Then do not squander time,
for that is the stuff life is made of. — Benjamin
Franklin.
Earth is here so kind, that just tickle her with
a hoe and she laughs with a harvest. — Douglas
Jerrold.
Blest is the man whose wish and care
Is just to be happy anywhere.
KITCHEN WINDOW CABINET
Nothing lightens labor so much as cheerfulness,
and cheerfulness may often be secured by very
simple means. In the accompanying picture is
shown one way that works well. Instead o.f the
usual kitchen table a cabinet is built below and at
the sides of the kitchen window and the top made
large enough to serve as a table. In this way the
44
HANDY FARM DEVICES
wife may have a pleasant view when she looks up
from her kitchen work. It is not necessary to go
into details concerning the construction of sucE a
cabinet, because no two people would be satisfied
with the same plan. The plan shown is merely
suggestive for the thoughtful wife and the handy
man to work out to suit their own particular needs.
TO LET IN MORE LIGHT
Many farm kitchens and dining rooms are dark
and gloomy. It is not an easy matter to cut new
windows in the outside wall, though this can often
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 45
be done to great advantage; but where there is an
outside door in a dark room, conditions can very
easily be improved, and that, too, at small expense.
Doors vary greatly in the manner of construction,
some having wide panels at the top and some hav-
ing two narrow ones of varying lengths. But
almost every panel door that was ever constructed
can be treated in the way which we will describe.
The two upper panels can be removed, and their
place filled with two lights of glass. If the door is
of modern make it will be found that the wooden
panel is held in place by a narrow molding all about
it, both inside and out. Remove the molding on one
side, and take out the panel. Put in the glass and
replace the molding, and the work is done. If,
however, the door is of older manufacture the
molding on either side may be found to be a part of
the door frame. In this case, cut the molding away
on one side, neatly and evenly, and remove the
panel. Then insert the glass, and having made, or
boug'ht, a little strip of molding, fasten it neatly
in place arOund the glass with brads.
In the case of some doors the two panels could be
removed, and also the upright between them, leav-
ing a large rectangular opening, into which a single
sash of four, or nine, lights could be inserted, the
joints being made tight about it with putty and
white lead. Then tack a narrow bit of molding
about the sash, both inside and out, and a door that
will give light to the room will be the result. An
outside door looks better with glass in the upper
half, and the interior will certainly be made more
cheerful and healthful because of it.
We know what we are. but know not what we
may be. — Hamlet.
46
HANDY FARM DEVICES
A BARREL CRADLE
Anyone who can use a hammer and nails and
needle and thread can make this inexpensive, ac-
cessible, easily moved," and cool yet sheltering
cradle.
Secure a nice white sugar batrel, clean it thor-
oughly and remove half of both heads. Place the
barrel on its side, removing half the staves, and
leaving the other half to form the bed of the cradle.
BARREL READY TO TRIM
Next remove the hoop that is second from the
bottom, and then two hoops will be left at the top
to form the frame for the hood, and one hoop at the
bottom to form the foot. (See illustration.) Care-
fully nail the reinaining staves to the hoops, clinch-
ing each nail securely.
Now cover the frame thus formed, as shown in
the accompanying illustration. Any thin cotton
goods that may be laundered can be used. Fig-
ured lawn would be very pretty, and if economy
is an item, a worn bleaching sheet will do. Place
a little mattress or pad and a tiny pillow within, or
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
47
the usual cradle furnishings may be used. One yard
of mosquito netting stretched over the opening of
the cradle will prevent insects from bothering, and
the netting itself cannot touch and awaken the
baby.
FINISHED CRADLE
TO PROTECT BABY FROM HOT STOVE
Winter months mean extra care for the mother
of a baby, but possibly the greatest of the addi-
tional cares that winter brings in this regard is that
of keeping the curious tot from the hot stove.
Build a pen around the stove to protect him from
it. The pen is a simple affair. It consists of four
little gates, made just large enough to surround the
stove, and covered with netting. The wire netting
does not interfere with the free passage of heat and
is very effective in keeping baby from getting
burned. The gates are made of i^-inch strips,
mortised or neatly fitted. For netting use ordi-
nary poultry wire of 2-foot width. The gates are
held in place by hooks and screw eyes. This ar-
rangement is better than hinges, as it makes the
48
HANDY FARM DEVICES
taking down of the affair, for sweeping or clean-
ing the stove, much easier.
In the summer you may use the gate at the foot
of the stairs, across the porch door, and in other
places where baby is determined to go, and where
he is in danger of falling and getting hurt unless
protected in this way. For this pen, the lumber
costs 25 cents, the netting 25 cents, and the hook
and screw eyes 15 cents, making a total of only
65 cents.
A BOX FOR CLOTHES
In many of the furniture stores one may see pretty
cloth-covered boxes that are used in bedrooms as a
receptacle for various articles of apparel, the inside,
as well as the outside, being covered with pretty
figured cloth*. The inside of the cover is fitted
with pockets for slippers and slumber shoes.
These little chests are so light that they may be
lifted about with one hand.
To make such a chest, select one of the very
light and well-made grocery boxes in which cereals
and various brands of breakfast foods are shipped,
which may be had at any grocery store. See that
the corners and the bottom are nailed securely.
The top will be composed of at least two pieces of
board, and these can be made into a solid cover by
nailing two cleats beneath them. But these will
not look very attractive when the covering is being
put on, so a more workmanlike plan will be to saw
off a couple of inches from each end of the top
boards and supply the place of the wood removed
by nailing along the ends a 2-inch strip of the same
thickness. This gives a cleat at each end, but the
cleats in this way form part of the cover itself.
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 49
Use long wire nails to secure these end pieces in
place.
It will be a simple matter to cover and line the'
box when the covering material is at hand. Use
very small tacks and carry the outside covering up
over the top and down over the inside, which will
make the use of tacks along the top unnecessary.
The lower edge of the cover can be tacked on the
bottom of the box, so the tacks will not be seen on.
the outside at all.
SCOOPS FROM TIN CANS
Scoops for handling sugar and flour are among
the most convenient utensils that one can have
about the pantry; and in a short time a good sup-
ply may be made from materials that are going
to waste about almost every home.
Take an ordinary tin can and either melt or cut
off the top. With a pair of tinner's shears (a
strong pair of household shears may be used),
begin at the open end and split the side of the can
to within about an inch of the bottom. Opposite
this one make a similar slit. Parallel to the bottom
of the can, cut from the lower end of one slit to-
that of the other. Round the corners of the re-
maining half, and the body of your scoop is fin-
ished.
For a handle, about 4 inches off the end of an
old broomstick is just the thing. If this is not
available, a handle may easily be shaped with a
knife from a piece of soft wood. To attach the
handle, from the inside drive a small nail through'
the center of the bottom of the can and into the
center of the handle.
50
HANDY FARM DEVICES
Some additional strength is obtained by planning
so that the seam of the can will run down the mid-
dle of the lip of the scoop, thus stiffening it. A
salmon or corn can makes a very convenient sized
scoop for the sugar, while tomato cans serve very
nijcely for flour and meals, and half-gallon paint
buckets may be thus utilized for handling light ma-
terials.
A HOMEMADE FOLDING TABLE
A handy game or sewing table may be made as
follows: Take two planed boards 12 inches wide
and 3 feet long. Fasten them together with two
SIMPLE HANDY TABLE
strips 2 inches wide and 24 inches long. Fasten
these strips by strong screws in upright position.
Now take two similar strips and fasten them by
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 5 1
hinges to the pieces screwed on the boards. Fasten
four stout legs to these in the manner shown in the
cut. Take two three-cornered boards large enough
to hold the legs stiff when dropped into position, and
fasten them by hinges, as shown.
The same general plan may be followed in mak-
ing a much larger and heavier table or a lighter one.
A HOMEMADE BUTTER WORKER
A butter worker is one of the handy devices that
should be upon every farm. A good type is shown
in the drawing. It is made of close-grained hard-
wood — maple or birch are recommended — tight-
jointed, free from knots and perfectly smooth in
size. It slopes enough to drain readily at the nar-
row end through a short piece of lead pipe inserted
BUTTER WORKER
at the bottom. The working bar has a strong,
smooth iron rod or spike at its lower end, which is
easily inserted into or removed from the hole in
52
HANDY FARM DEVICES
which it works. The part of the bar that comes
in contact with the butter is half-round on one side
and two flat sides meet at a right angle. Of course,
it must be as smooth as possible.
HOME CHEESEMAKING
Nearly every farm home contains, or may easily
be supplied with, the necessary appliances to make
cheese, and it is not a difficult task when one is
once familiar with the process. For a small batch
of about 12 gallons of milk the following method
is a good one: Take about 6 gallons of the even-
ing's milk and leave it covered with a cloth in a
CHEESE PRESS
temperature of 65 to 70 degrees until morning and
then mix 6 gallons of morning's milk with it in a
large tub or boiler. All milk may then be heated
together to 80 to 90 degrees. Care must be used
not to get it too hot or to expose it to a draft so
that it will cool quickly.
Another good method preferred by some is to
use 1 1 gallons of perfectly sweet morning's milk and
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 53
to this add i gallon of milk that has soured and
thickened. The sour milk should be stirred well
to get out all the lumps and left for about 15
minutes before the rennet is put in. The easiest
way to heat the milk is to place it in a wash boiler
right on the stove until it gets up to 86 to 90 de-
grees and then raise it from the stove by placing it
on two bricks. The stove must not be too hot.
Rennet in the form of tablets is most convenient
and useful for home cheesemaking. Dissolve one
tablet in half a glass of cold water and add to the
milk after it has been heated and stir well for two
minutes. Some cheesemakers use two or three
tablets, as it saves time, but for beginners two are
usually enough. If you have liquid rennet extract,
use about two tablespoonfuls.
Cutting the Curd
The rennet will curdle the milk and the curd/will
be ready to cut in 20 to 40 minutes. This can be
determined by noting if the curd breaks clean like
jelly when raised on a knife blade. The cutting can
be done with a wire toaster, a long knife or a heavy
wire. Cut lengthwise of the vessel and then crosswise
until the curd is in nearly uniform pieces of j4-inch
squares. After cutting, leave the curd on for five
minutes, then heat slowly to 100 degrees, stirring
all the time. Cook for about 40 minutes at as near
90 degrees as possible, stirring occasionally to pre-
vent the curd from sticking together. Keep the
heat up and do not allow the mass to cool.
To determine when the curd is ready, take a
handful and squeeze it in the hand firmly and if it
feels elastic and does not stick together, it has been
cooked long enough. If the milk is good, the curd
54 HANDY FARM DEVICES
should have a pleasant, slightly acid odor. As soon
as the curd is cooked, draw off the whey or dip off
the curd with a sieve and place in another vessel.
After the curd is well drained and before it sticks
together, add J4 pound of fine salt and mix well.
After salting, let it cool for 15 minutes, stirring
occasionally, when it is ready for the hoop.
Pressing and Curing
For a cheese hoop, one can use a tin hoop 7
inches in diameter and 12 inches deep or an old
peck measure without a bottom if holes are punched
in the sides for drainage. For a press a device
shown in the sketch will serve well, the pail at the
end of the lever being filled with stones. Before
the curd is placed in the hoop, line it with
cheesecloth, one piece the size of the bottom
and another around the side. Turn the upper
ed^ of the cloth over the edge of the hoop
and fasten it tight. When the curd is packed
firmly, put a piece of cloth on the upper end and
fold it over tight. Make the pressure slight at
first, but after an hour rearrange the cloth and
make the pressure heavier. The pressing should
be finished by the next day. Do not press in too
cool a place, but keep the temperature about 50
degrees.
For curing, set the cheese in a damp room or
cellar which has an even temperature. Turn it
around daily, and if it shows signs of molding, rub
occasionally with butter. It should be ready to eat
in three or four weeks. Cheese will cure at 40
degrees, but it takes longer than when warmer.
Twelve gallons of milk should make about 10
pounds of cheese, according to richness of milk.
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 55
After one or two attempts any housekeeper should
be able to make good cheese by this method. It is
necessary to keep all utensils very clean and the
liberal use of boiling water with a little soda will
accomplish this purpose.
WASHES WHILE READING
Here is a way of making play of wash day. Per-
haps some of our bright boys will try this to help
mother. A friend of ours had an old bicycle unfit
for use. He made a frame to raise the hind wheel
from the floor, wound the rim with twine (tire
being off) and reversed the seat. In place of the
form he inserted a piece of pipe (a stick would do
as well). Then he took some old belting, cut it
PEDAL POWER DEVICE
to i^ inches wide and about lo feet long, and with
that he runs the washing machine for his wife. He
can read the paper while he washes, and he does
not lose much time from field work either. An
emery wheel can also be run with it by bolting
i-inch strips to the top part of the frame extending
over the wheel and mounting a polishing head on
same.
Knowledge is power. — Bacon.
$6 HANDY FARM DEVICES
TREAD POWER IN THE DAIRY
While the small gasoline engines adapted to run-
jiing cream separators have been hailed with delight
by many dairymen, the old tread power is still a
very economical and reliable source of power.
With a heavy sheep, dog or the dairy herd bull
SEPARATOR RUN BY RAM POWER
enough power can be produced to run the sep-
arator and churn at practically no cost except for
the tread.
One difficulty has beeti to secure a uniform rate
of speed, but this is solved if a heavy flywheel is
attached to the tread. While the sketch shows a
direct drive from tread to separator, a more desir-
able arrangement is to have the tread located in a
room adjoining the separator room, where the milk
will not be exposed to the breath of the animal.
A great many men wear themselves out devising
schemes to sidestep honest work.
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
A LAMP FOR COOKING
57
A lamp may be utilized for cooking purposes in
the following way : Make a tripod by taking three
strips of wood of equal length, putting in one end
a headless nail and making slightly slanting holes
in the corners of a 6-inch
triangular piece of board in
which to fit them. A screw
hook in the center of the
board, on the under side,
completes the device, which
has only to be stood over a
lighted lamp to be ready for
work. A small stew kettle,
or tin pail, hung on the hook,
within a half inch of the
lamp chimney, enables one
to have a " pot boiling " in
short order. If you have a
large lamp, with a round
wick, it will give the heat of
two or three common ones, and you can cook almost
as rapidly as over a stove.
With an ordinary lamp, food can be heated, eggs
boiled, or coffee made very quickly, helping won-
derfully in the getting of a meal. This is also an
easy and convenient way to heat baby's milk, or
water, in the night, in case of sickness. Stood on a
chair by the table, the device can be used to keep
the coffee or chocolate hot during meal time. A
round piece of sheet iron, with chains attached to
suspend it from the hook, is an additional help, to
hold a steeper for tea.
As this tripod can be taken apart readily, when
not in use, it will be found a good adiunct to a
LAMP HEATER
S8 HANDY FARM DEVICES
camping outfit, even though you carry a camp
stove, for there will be times when nothing will
be wanted but a hot drink, which can be made over
the lamp with less trouble than it would be to
make a fire in the stove.
HOT WATER ALL NIGHT
One of the things that must be had quickly when
medicine is needed, and still more often for a bottle
baby, is hot water at night. The following con-
trivance has been found to be worth many times
the trouble to make it, for it saves annoyance at a
time when baby's worrying may mean hours of
sitting up.
Place the socket of a wall bracket lamp just high
enough above a table so that the top of a hand lamp
chimney will be 5 or 6 inches below it. Make an
arm of round iron or small piping long enough to
extend out over the lamp and to this hang a hook, on
which hang a small teakettle or pail. In this enough
water for the needs of a night. can be kept hot with-
out boiling, and will be ready at an instant's notice.
As a night lamp is a necessity in a house where
there is a youngster, the cost of this device will be
nothing, for the blaze of a small burner will pro-
vide sufficient heat. The proper height for the
socket on the wall can be determined by measuring
the hook and the kettle to be used. The lamp
chimney should not be nearer than 2 inches to the
bottom of the kettle, or the water will boil and
steam away.
HOW TO CUT BREAD EVEN
Here is one of the most useful devices to which
the handy man can give his attention. It is very
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
59
rarely that a housekeeper can cut even and hand-
some slices of bread, however much she may desire
to have the bread plate look attractive. One slice
will be thin, another thick, while another will be
thick on one edge and thin on the other. The
drawing shows a simple arrangement by which all
the slices of bread can be cut of an even thickness
without any slant.
Cut a piece of pine board to about 9 x 13 inches.
Near one end, on either side, insert firmly two
BREAD CUTTING BOARD
pieces of very stout wire, bent double, as suggested
in the cut. These wire supports should be at least
7 inches high, and should have another inch of
length firmly inserted in the wood. The wire
should be as stout as No. 12, or larger still, and
■should stand exactly at right angles to the board.
Put them far enough apart so the largest loaf will
readily go between them, and have the opening in
each wire standard just wide enough so the knife
will slide up and down without " wobbling " The
dotted lines show the position of the knife when
6o
HANDY FARM DEVICES
in place. Screw a little strip of wood in front of
the wire, just far enough ahead to make the slice
of bread the right thickness. Press the loaf up
against this guide and cut off a slice, then press
the shortened loaf up again, and repeat the process.
HOMEMADE WATER COOLER
It's a mighty nice thing to have a good supply
of cold water at the barn when threshers, corn
buskers, or hay
harvesters are at
work. A simple
and effective ar-
rangement can be
made by using a
flour barrel and a
lo-gallon stone jar.
Place the jar in-
side the barrel and
surround it with
charcoal, sawdust,
or chaff, if nothing
else is available. .
With a tight lid
and a wet cloth
spread over the
top, water will
keep ice cold in
WATER COOLER this arrangement.
The uses of such a cooler may be multiplied to in-
clude keeping many things cool in the house.
KEEP FOOD COOL IN SUMMER
A very convenient and serviceable place to keep
dairy products may be formed by sinking a large
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
6l
barrel in the ground. A shady spot should be
chosen, or the heat of the sun will affect the tem-
perature. Fill in around the barrel with small
stones, gravel and sand, dampened in order to
maintain coolness.
Construct a box around and above the top of the
barrel, and bank up with solid earth, preferably
FOOD COOLER
clay. This drains off the water when it rains. It
also makes th^ bottom of the barrel farther down
from the top of the opening, which further pro-
motes coolness. Next shape a light, inner lid to
place on top of the barrel, and then make a strong,
hinged lid for the box, and arrange it so it may be
fastened down tightly.
62 HANDY FARM DEVICES "
Sprinkle a little dampened sand on the bottom
of the barrel, and your little barrel cellar is ready
for use. By being careful several vessels may be
arranged one above the other in this handy little
receptacle. Air out occasionally to prevent mold
and odors from collecting.
A COOLER DUMMY
Where a deep, cool well is located near the house
an arrangement may be devised that will serve the
purpose of a refrigerator. Construct a frame of
strong boards with a groove in which a board on
the side of the box of shelves can run. Attach a
rope to the top of the box of shelves, pass it over
a wheel on the crank shaft and balance with a
counter weight.
If the frame is i6 feet long and extended down
near to the surface of the water the lowest tem-
perature may be secured. A nice looking top may
be constructed for the arrangement, with a door
opening into the shelves when they are drawn to
the top. Most wells are almost as cool as a refrig-
erator, and this sort of an arrangement serves the
purpose with a great deal less expense.
A wire clothesline will serve as a cable. Any
old pieces of iron will do for the counter weight,
and it is well to have a ratchet wheel, such as are
found on old chain pumps, to prevent the elevator
dropping when it is well filled. Make as many
parts as possible of wood to prevent rusting. One
such elevator is 42 inches high and 18 inches
square.
Turning the grindstone is hard work ; but if you
use it as a muscle developer it will help out.
- IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 63
AN OUTDOOR CLOSET
When the housewife has baked a pie or a pud-
ding for dinner and wishes to cool it quickly in
winter it has to be set out of doors; but there the
trouble begins. It cannot be set upon the snow,
since that would melt and engulf the hot dish.
Moreover, the cat or dog, or some neighbor's cat
or dog, is likely to be lurking about the door, ready
for pie. Let the handy man make a little out-of-
door cupboard for the use of the housekeeper, locat-
ing it beside the kitchen door. Get an empty
grocery box of the right size and hinge the cover
to the top, placing a knob on the other edge. Make
a support for this closet by driving two strips of
wood into the ground and screwing two crosswise
strips of board to the tops. Lay the grocery box
on its side on these supports and nail it to them>
from the inside.
Here anything hot can be placed to cool quickly,
and with the cover down there will be no danger
from cats or dogs or hens. If desired to give a
freer access to the cold air, several holes can be
bored in each end and in the bottom before putting
the box in position on the supports. If the ground
is frozen too hard to insert the strips of board, the
closet can be placed against the side of the house,,
close to the kitchen door, and supported in place by
two wooden brackets. Another plan to secure the
same result would be to make the ploset and screw
a wooden handle to the middle of the top, with-
holes bored in ends and back. When it is to be
used put the dish, or dishes, inside and set the
closet out onto the snow beside the door.
Taste the joy
That springs from labor. — Longfellow.
64
HANDY FARM DEVICES
HOMEMADE REFRIGERATOR
Take two largfe boxes, one 2 inches smaller than
the other every way, and bore two i-inch holes in
the bottom of each box for drainage. Fill up 2
inches in the large box with powdered charcoal or
coal ashes. Put the smaller box inside and fill the
space all around with the charcoal or ashes. Fix
the lids to both boxes to fit tightly. Put shelves
on both sides of inner box. Leave a place in the
center of the box of ice. A rack, made of lath,
can be laid at the bottom for ice to rest on.
ICELESS BUTTER AND MILK COOLER
The accompanying picture shows how a well may
be utilized during the warm months for cooling
butter, milk and
other perishable
articles. It will
be found very
handy as a sub-
stitute for a re-
frigerator when
the farmer has no
ice supply. Any-
one can make a
triangular - shaped
frame for the
windlass, which is
placed above the
well; and anyone
can also put the
trap doors in the
platform of the
well. These doors
should be pro-
COLD STORAGE FOR MILK
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 65
vided with a lock, so children cannot fall in. A
pin may be placed on the handle side of the wind-
lass to prevent the crank from turning around when
the box is lowered to the desired depth.
The picture is only suggestive. The shape and
size of the various parts will depend upon the style
of the well. Preferably, the box should be made
of galvanized iron and have perforations in the bot-
tom, so it may be lowered right into the water. Of
course, this would not be feasible if the materials
to be kept cold were not first placed in sealed
receptacles. Where a well with a bucket pump or
the ordinary wooden pump is the only available
place to put such a cooler, the cooler may be at
one side of the well. If necessary, the position of
the pump may be shifted.
Knowledge is of two kinds. We know a subject
ourselves, or we know where we can find informa-
tion upon it. — Samuel Johnson.
Every addition to true knowledge is an addition
to human power. — Horace Mann.
But now my task is smoothly done,
I can fly, or I can run. — Milton.
A VENTILATED PUMP PLATFORM
Here is a way to keep the well clean and pure at
all times. Make the frame of the platform of 2 x 4's,
allowing a space 2 to 6 inches between the top and
bottom parts of the sides. This space is covered
on the inside with a fly screen to keep out dirt and
66
HANDY FARM DEVICES
insects, and outside of this with a larger meshed
screen to keep out large vermin. This gives good
ventilation to the well, which never becomes foul.
In the winter cover the platform with straw and
snow.
HELPS TO KEEP WATER PURE
CLEANING A WELL
To remove floating litter from a well, take an
ordinary sand sieve, and, after marking off the rim
into three parts, attach a wire to any of the two
points and to this improvised handle attach a rope.
Fasten the end of the rope to the third point in the
rim and a weight to the sieve, so that it can be
lowered into the well and will sink. When used,
sink the sieve edgewise into the water and pull the
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
&7
rope with a single attachment and it may be lifted
out with all the floating sticks and timber on the
surface of the water.
DOG POWER FOR PUMP
This sketch shows an arrangement for making
use of the dog for carrying water. It simply con-
sists of a wheel 8 feet in diameter and i8 inches
DOG POWER PUMPING DEVICE
wide, with room enough inside for the dog to walk
around, where he acts as a tread power, which
causes the pump to revolve. In southern Califor-
68 HANDY FARM DEVICES
nia there are a number of these dog-power pumps,
which cost less than $15. A good-sized dog can
easily earn his living in an arrangement of this
kind.
FILTER FOR CISTERN WATER
The problem of keeping water in a cistern clean
is most easily solved by not allowing it to get
dirty, as can be done by the device shown in the
drawing on page 69. Two barrels, each with
a perforated false bottom, are set side by side be-
neath the water spout from the roof and connected
with a pipe leading to the cistern. Above the false
bottoms fine gravel and then sand are packed to
the depth of 8 or more inches. On top of the sand
rest stout floats as large as can be let down into the
barrels. From near the margin of the floats two
heavy wires extend vertically upward about 2 feet
to engage loosely near their centers with a tilting
spout by means of knobs on both the ends of the
spout and the wires.
When the barrels are empty the floats rest on
the sand. As the water begins to pour in one
barrel it strikes the float, but is prevented from
gouging a very deep hole at the outside of the
barrel by striking a strip of wood about i inch high,
2 inches wide arid i foot long. This spreads the
flow. A layer of gravel at this place would also
help prevent gouging. If the flow is too great to
filter away readily, the float will rise and the knob
on the wire will engage with the spout, which will
be tilted until the flow will suddenly start into the
other barrel. If the delivery pipe to the cistern be
large enough there should be no danger of either
barrel overflowing. When the sand becomes dirty
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
69
a few minutes will serve to remove it and put in
fresh. This will insure clean water in the cistern,
and greatly reduce the number of times the dis-
agreeable job of cleaning out the cistern must be
done.
TWO-BARREL FILTER
70 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A HANDY WATER FILTER
Nearly every farm can boast of good water, but
no water, either from well, spring or stream, is
pure, as it all contains more or less animal of
vegetable matter. The only way to make it pure
is to filter it, just as is done in city supply reser-
voirs, or private filtering tanks.
A simple water filter is very easily made that
answers all purposes for domestic use. The plan
of its operations is identical with that employed
in large reservoirs where water is filtered on a
large scale for general distribution. This filter
consists, primarily, of two flower pots, set one
above the other. In the bottom of the upper pot
is stuffed a large sponge. A sponge is also stuffed
in the bottom of the lower pot, but it is more ade-
quately supplied with filtering material by placing
above the sponge a layer of smooth pebbles, then
a layer of coarse sand, and still above this a layer
of pounded charcoal 3 or 4 inches in depth. It is
also best to place another layer of smooth pebbles
above the charcoal, to prevent it from being stirred
up during the circulation of the water.
The upper pot should be the largest, and if the
lower one is strong, the upper one may stand in it,
or two strips of wood will serve as a base support.
The two pots thus arranged are placed on a three-
legged stool with a hole in it, through which the
water drips through the bottom of the lower pot
into the mouth of a jug set underneath. The upper
pot serves as a reservoir, and its sponge stops the
coarser impurities, and thus the filtering layers of
the lower one may be used for a year without being
renewed, though it is necessary frequently to clean
the sponge of the upper pot.
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
71
The layers of sand and charcoal of the lower pot
are positively efifective in stopping all animal and
vegetable matter, as well as many smaller impu-
rities in the water. The only trouble one may ex-
perience with it is in neglecting the upper sponge
for too long a time, or in stuffing it in too loosely,
thus allowing the water to pass from the upper pot
faster than it can filter through the lower one.
Only a little attention, once or twice a month, is
sufficient to keep this simple filter in perfect run-
ning order.
DELIVERING MAIL BY TROLLEY
Where the house stands some distance back from
the highway a trolley can be rigged up to save
steps in getting the
mail. The box is
hung on two pulley
door hangers, as
shown in cut. A
strong post, with a
bent arm, is set
next the highway,
a, suspended be-
tween it and the
house, on which
the box runs. A
pulley is fastened
in or to, the post,
and over it runs a
cord, h, c, to pull the box back and forth between
the house and the road. The box is sent down to
meet the carrier, who places the mail in it, and
then it is quickly pulled back to the house.
TROLLEY MAIL BOX
72
HANDY FARM DEVICES
BEAUTY IN A BARREL
A very nice ornamentation for the lawn is shown
in the picture. It is made by sawing an oil barrel
in two as shown,
and mounting it on
legs. Paint it and
set one-half of the
barrel on each side
of the walk and use
them for growing
flowers in during
the summer. Care
should be taken to
have the hoops
thoroughly nailed
to the staves and
to have the heads
solid. Dark green
or dark red are
good colors for the
painting. If pre-
ferred, the barrel may rest upon the ground, but
should be securely braced or blocked to prevent
rolling.
STORAGE BIN FOR VEGETABLES
HALF-BARREL PLANT HOLDER
Instead of keeping the vegetables in barrels or
boxes scattered all over the cellar, have a set of
storage bins. Take six drygoods boxes and bolt
them together as shown in the drawing. Put legs
on them to hold them oflf the floor and a cover on
the top. Then paint on the boxes the names of the
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
73
vegetables. It is most convenient to have the
vegetables most frequently used in the upper hoxes,
which would not be true of the bin shown in the pic-
ture. If the upper row of boxes is attached to each
other, but not to the lower ones, the top section can
easily be moved enough to make filling the lower
boxes a simple matter. Otherwise, the vegetables
VEGETABLE BIN
would have to be put in through the openings at
the top of each box a few at a time by hand, instead
of pouring them in.
Many people would not care to keep their pota-
toes in such a sectional bin, preferring a large sep-
arate bin. It certainly is all right for other root
vegetables, and many other products of the farm
that are stored might well be kept handy for use in
such a labeled sectional bin.
74 HANDY FARM DEVICES
AN INEXPENSIVE CELLAR
A temporary cellar is sometimes necessary in
cold countries where that under the house is not
sufficient for stor-
ing vegetables. A
very effective and
useful temporary
cellar may be con-
structed after the
following method,
as shown by the
drawings : Dig a pit
15 feet long, 10 feet
wide, 4 feet deep
in a solid, dry place where the drainage is good.
Put a gable roof of i-inch board over the hole, sup-
ported by 2 X 4-inch strips at the eaves, gable and
half way up the sides. Strengthen by crossbeams
and a central support if the lumber is not first
class. Over this place 8 to 10 inches of dry straw
CROSS-SECTION'
TEMPORARY CELLAR
well packed and over the entire structure, except-
ing one end, pack earth 12 to 14 inches deep. The
surface should be smooth to shed water. It is
better if plastered with mud covered with sods.
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
75
The door end must be double-walled and the space
filled with straw. The door must also be double and
its margin packed with cloth strips, so as to be
practically airtight. If possible, the pit should be
drained by a tile, the end of which is covered with
a piece of wire netting to prevent the entrance of
rodents. Such a cellar will prevent freezing dur-
ing usual winter weather. The door should be
opened on mild days and the interior aired thor-
oughly. The size and depth of the pit may be
varied according to needs.
CLOTHESLINE UP AND DOWN
Heavy posts should be set for the ends, 3 feet in
and 3 feet out of the ground. It is not necessary
for the center post to be as heavy as the end ones.
Have the posts clean and smooth, so they will not
soil the clothes when blown against them. Take a
.^^rm^^^^
ELEVATED CLOTHESLINE
piece of 2 x 4-inch hard wood 5 feet long for the
lever. Fasten to the post near the top with a ^-
inch bolt, 2 feet next to the line and 3 feet for the
lever. A block holds the lever in position while
the clothes are being put on. A button holds the
lever upright when the line is hoisted.
76 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A CLOTHES HORSE
There is no little thing that will save the house-
hold so much as a revolving clothes horse, so near
the back stoop that the clothes may be hung on it
without stepping out in the snow. A solid post
should have a hole bored in the top and the arms
may be beveled and spiked to a piece of plank
through which a bolt passes into the post, or each
arm may be bored to let the bolt pass through it.
Three, four or five arms may be used as desired,
and of any length, provided all are of one length.
No skill is required in making it, as the rope holds
the arms up simply by being tight enough. It is
well to set the post before measuring for the arms,
so that they may be sure to reach the veranda.
Some laths may be nailed together at first to make
a model, if you are not sure of your ability as a
carpenter.
A TOILET CLOSET
A small closet in a home, for keeping medicines
and toilet articles, is a great convenience. One
consists of ^-inch pine, 4 inches wide, planed and
put together so as to be 2 x 3 feet. It has four
shelves. The door is of thin pine, free from knots,
planed, hinged and with a back catch. The out-
side of frame and door is varnished. Being in the
toilet room, it is indeed a very useful as well as
ornamental piece of furniture. It has no back cas-
ing or boards ; simply rests against the wall. It is
held in place by four short pieces of band iron, one
end of each band being fastened to back of frame,
the other end fastened to the wall by a screw. All
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE "J"]
kinds of medicines, shaving materials, soaps, wash
rags, can there be kept. If there is no other look-
ing-glass in the room, one may be fastened on the
otitside of door.
REVOLVING CELLAR SHELF
A handy cellar shelf that will save the house-
keeper many steps may be arranged at the side of
the cellar stairs, within easy reach upon descend-
ing a few steps. The shelf is contrived from an
old axle and wheel. The axle is fastened to hang
from the nearest beam to the stairway. The wheel
is covered with thin, smoothly planed boards and
the axle is kept well oiled, so the wheel will revolve
readily, bringing all parts of the shelf within reach
at need.
WATER SUPPLY FOR FARMHOUSE
Farmers can have running water, hot or cold,
in their dwelling houses at a cost of fifty dollars
and up, depending upon the size of the house and
the kind of equipment needed. This makes pos-
sible the bath and toilet room, protection from fire,
the easy washing of windows and walks, the sprin-
kling of lawns, the irrigating of gardens, and all
the other conveniences which a few years ago were
thought possible only in cities, where big water
systems were available. This is one of the things
that makes farm life attractive. It lessens the work
in the house, insures a fine lawn and garden, re-
duces danger from fire, adds greatly to comfort and
convenience in every direction.
The way to secure this is to install a water sup-
ply system, with a pressure tank in the basement.
78
HANDY FARM DEVICES
This pressure tank is so arranged that by pumping
it full under strong air pressure the water is forced
all over the house, and is available for the bath-
room, toilet room and the garden or fire hose. The
water is distributed about the house exactly as it
is in city homes, by means of galvanized iron pipes.
[Where a small building is to be supplied and the
HOUSE WATER SYSTEM
amount of water to be used is not large, the sys-
tem can be installed for $50. For the average
house $90 is a better figure. Where the house is
large, and where considerable amounts of water
are needed for the lawn and garden, and possibly
also for washing carriages, automobiles and horses,
a larger system should be installed, costing up to
$150.
Installation and Operation
Its installation is easy, and its operation is ex-
ceedingly simple. Any pipe fitter or plumber can
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE 79
put in the plant so that it will work perfectly. All
that is needed for operating is to keep the tank
pressure up to the desired point. This may be 20,
40, 60 or 100 pounds. A few strokes of the pump,
if the work is done by hand, is sufficient. If a lot
of water is used, of course the amount of pumping
will increase. By being economical irt the use of
water, that is to say, wasting none, this matter
of pumping is not at all a serious problem.
The most satisfactory, method of pumping, how-
ever, is to use a windmill, or what is much better,
a gasoline engine. Every up-to-date farm ought
to have a small gasoline engine, which can be
utilized not only for operating this water supply
system, but for churning, sawing wood, cutting
feed and doing a dozen and one other jobs about the
farm. It would take only a few minutes of pump-
ing to raise the pressure in the tank the desired
height. With the engine it will not be necessary
to be economical in using water, provided the well
is a good one, and the supply of water large.
Experience with Water Supply System
C. A. Shamel of Illinois, editor of the Orange
Judd Farmer, has a system of this kind in his coun-
try home. It cost $75. He put in a bathroom, a
toilet, has a hot water tank in connection with
the kitchen range, and no money ever expended
on that farm has given anything like the amount
of satisfaction and comfort as that paid for this
water supply system. Arrangement is made to
take care of the waste water and sewage by run-
ning a large tile from the bathroom, one-quarter
of a mile distant, to a large cistern, located in the
center of a big field. This is disinfected about
80 HANDY FARM DEVICES
twice a year, and is easily handled. There is never
any trouble with the water pipes, even during the
coldest weather. Neither has there been any dif-
ficulty with the waste system. In fact, the water
supply is practically perfect, and the people on that
farm don't see how any farmer who can get to-
gether $75 or $ioo can afford to be without it.
Up to date all the pumping has been done by
hand. With the pump in perfect condition, this is
not a laborious problem. On two occasions the
pump valve became slightly defective through
wear, and it was not convenient to fix it for a few
weeks, being somewhat distant from the factory.
With this condition it required a great deal more
labor to do the pumping, but even with this dis-
advantage, it was not a serious proposition.
The illustration indicates the arrangement of a
water supply system, and, as can be readily seen,
it is very simple. Notice the hand force pump tank
in the basement to hold the water under pressure,
and the arrangement of lavatories, bath and kitchen
hot water service. The system can also be used
for supplying water to stock tanks, and these may
be located anywhere on the farm. The pressure
developed in the tank is sufficient to force the water
anywhere wanted. This use will, of course, depend
entirely upon the wishes of the owner and is simply
a matter of cost of pipes. It can very readily be
used for delivering water to dairy or other stock
barns, where it can be run into water troughs in the
stalls, or elsewhere, as desired.
WARNING AGAINST FIRE
A handy device that will give an alarm in case
the roof catches fire close to the chimney is shown
IN AND AROUND THE HOUSE
8i
O
L
a
1
II
II
II
A FIRE ALARM
82 HANDY FARM DEVICES
on the opposite page. Drive a nail in two rafters
on a line with the face of the chimney, to which
stretch a cord close to the chimney, so that, in case
of fire, the cord will burn off and release the weight
hanging to it, which in turn will drop on an electric
button and ring a bell. A dry battery will cost
20 cents and a bell 50 cents. Place these on a shelf
above the fireplace. Place a piece of heavy wire, b,
10 inches long, as shown, and fasten to the wall or
chimney for the weight, a, to slide on. The weight
need be suspended only an inch or two above the
bell.
WHERE TO HANG A FIRE LADDER
A necessity on all farms and near all farm build-
ings are ladders and other means of getting on the
roofs, and in and out of upper story windows in
time of emergency. A scuttle should be left or
made in the highest part of the house roof and a
ladder should be at hand that will reach the eaves
of the highest roof. A good place to store a ladder
of this kind is under the eaves of the L or along
the rear wall of the house. Have two hooks to
hang it on. Make a good ladder and keep it
painted.
-f your cellar is dark, there is danger of accidents
when going down the stairs. Have the last step
whitened so that you may easily know when you
are at the bottom. You can see this step plainly
even in a dim light.
MEN<^(^<rroeB
A HANDY FEED BASKET
ROVIDE a feed basket like this to
strap upon the nose of a horse
when giving the animal feed while
away from the stable. It is simpler
to make than the round basket,
and has an added advantage. When
not in use, the two sides press to-
gether and occupy scarcely any room. Cut out two
semi-circular pieces of wood from a ^-inch board
in the shape suggested in
the cut. Setting them at
the proper distance apart,
tack a strip of canvas, or
other stout cloth, around
the curved partition, as
shown in the accompany-
ing picture. Nail a strap
and a buckle at the sides,
to go over the head, and
the feed basket will be
complete.
The form of this basket
more nearly fits the shape
of a horse's head, and be-
sides, because of its oblong shape, gives the horse
more freedom in opening his mouth than does the
close-fitting round basket.
FEED BASKET
He who will not be counseled cannot be helped
83
84 HANDY FARM DEVICES
MAKE THE HORSE EAT SLOWLY
If your horse has the habit of bolting his feed you
can easily remedy it by making a self-feeder on his
box. The accompanying drawing
shows how a feeder may be made
similar to a poultry feed hopper.
The contrivance may be made of
inch boards large enough to hold
one feed. The horse can get the
HOLDS ONE FEED grain only in small quantities and
so cannot eat it more rapidly than
he should. The bottom must be made with enough
slant to insure all of the feed coming out in the
trough.
I am only one,
But I am one.
I cannot do everything,
But I can do something.
What I can do I ought to do;
And what I ought to do
By the grace of God I will do.
STALLS BETTER THAN STANCHIONS
The only point in favor of stanchions is that they
take up less room than stalls, but the increase in
milk is a reward for allowing more space and con-
venience to each cow. The cut shows one kind of
stall. The rack, a, is of hardwood 30 inches high,
with the slats wide enough so the cow can thrust
her nose through up to her eyes.
The bottom of the rack is 18 inches wide, ex-
tending into the stall toward the cow. The feed
BARNS AND STOCK
85
box, b, slides through an opening in the stall on the
barn floor. It can be drawn into the feedway,
cleansed out and a new feed put in without being
disturbed by the cow. The halter strap, c, is just
long enough to allow the cow to lie down comfort-
ably. The gutter, d, is 8 inches lower than the
PLAN OF cow STALL
stall floor. When she lies down she will put her
head under the rack in kneeling* and when she gets
up, she will move backward so that she can look
through the rack. The length and width of stall
can be made to suit the cows. Small breeds, like
Jerseys and Ayrshires, will need about 6 inches
less each way than Holsteins and Shorthorns.
Knowledge is proud that he has learned so much;
Wisdom is humble that he knows no more.
— Cowper.
The man who is always poking his nose into
other folks' business rarely has any of his own
worth attending to.
There is no knowledge that is not power. —
Emerson.
86
HANDY FARM DEVICES
GOOD TIES FOR COWS
The merits of stanchions and other forms of cow
ties have been debated by dairymen for a long time.
_ The mass of expe-
rience is in favor of
the tying arrange-
ment which will
give the cow the
most freedom of
movement. The
old-fashioned solid
stanchion fails in
this respect. In
many cases it is
difficult for the cow
to lie down or get
up with her head
fast in one of these
stanchions.
The heavy swing-
ing stanchions have
advantages over
this, but it also
must be criticised in many cases, because of its
weight and of the consequent lack of freedom on the
part of the cow. A very light swinging stanchion is
the best type of that form. It is easy to fasten, as the
cows will in most cases put their heads in position
as they go into the stall. There is not so much
danger of the dairyman being struck by the horns
of the cow in fastening these stanchions. Many
modern barns are equipped with this kind.
The chain tie is favored in many sections. This
consists simply qf a crosschain with consider-
able slack, attached to a ring at each end which
runs over a perpendicular iron rod about i8
SWINGING STANCHIONS
BARNS AND STOCK
87
inches long. In the
center of this chain
is a loop with a snap
which goes around
the cow's neck. This
arrangement gives
the greatest free-
dom, and allows the
cow to lie down and
get up without dif-
ficulty. If light par-
titions are used be-
tween the heads of
the cows no difficulty
will be experienced
in their striking
each other with their „^^„ ^„,,„
, rr^, ■ ■ , NECK CHAIN
horns. Ihis is by
far the least expensive of cow ties, and is at the
same time one of the most satisfactory.
HANDY CALF-FEEDING DEVICE
To feed a half-dozen calves at once is entirely
possible if one uses the device shown here. A man
STANCHIONS FOR CALVES
who has one reports no more trouble with calves
since he has used this. He rattles a couple of
88 HANDY FARM DEVICES
buckets together, the calves come running up to
the fence and soon have all their heads through the
stanchions, to which they are easily fastened by
throwing down lever, a, which draws the bar, b,
into position. Then one may feed each calf with-
out difficulty.
Leave a 4-inch space for the calves' heads. Make
the rack of i-inch lumber and it can be moved from
one pasture to another and attached to the fepce
or a couple of posts. It can also be used for hold-
ing ewes at lambing time.
MANAGEMENT OF KICKING COWS
Make a slatted stall just high enough so the cow
can't jump out, and wide enough to hold her com-
fortably, with nothing to spare, and narrower at
the end, where her feed box should be placed as
high from the ground as is comfortable for her to
eat out of. This slatted stall should be long
enough to have cleats through which a bar or two
should be run behind the cow to keep her from
backing out, and also places to run a bar in front
of her hind legs about the hock joint, or as high
up as possible so as not to interfere with milking.
A hole about 18 or 20 inches wide is left open for
this purpose from the ground up to the cow's flank,
which allows easy and safe access to the udder,
while the cleat and post prevent the cow from kick-
ing outwardly at the milker, thus insuring safety.
A HANDY MILKING STOOL
Milkers who have trouble with restless cows that
invariably either upset the pail or get a quantity of
BARNS AND STOCK
89
dirt in it will find the stool
shown here a remedy for
their troubles. It is also
very serviceable in fly time.
The upright pieces form-
ing the legs and ends of
stools are made of 2 x 8-
inch pieces about i foot
long. The supports for the
bucket and the seat are
made of inch boards. To secure rigidity it is well
to put three-cornered blocks under the seat and
bucket board as brace stays. The most restless cow
is not likely to upset the bucket from this stool.
STOOL TO HOLD PAIL
THE EVER READY STOOL
A very convenient stool for use in milking the
cow in yard or field is shown in the cut. It is
merely a one-
legged stool to
which is attached
four straps con-
n e c t i n g with a
broad strap that is
buckled around the
waist. The stool is
quickly fastened to
the milker and is
always in a posi-
tion so one can sit
down anywhere.
Such a stool with
a short leg would
also be useful in
the garden. Of
course, if one pre- milking stool
go HANDY FARM DEVICES
ferred four legs instead of one, the stool could be so
made, but experience proves that the one-legged
kind serves well.
CHEAP MILKING STOOL
A cheap and very useful milking stool is made
of the reel from which barbed wire has been re-
moved. Saw off the ends so it will set level and
REEL STOOL
cut a board to fit on top. Make a hand hole through
the board as shown in the illustration and the stool
is ready for use.
KEEP STOOLS CLEAN
Much milk contamination is undoubtedly due to
the careless handling of the milk stools. When the
milker is through milking one cow he gives the
stool a toss, then he picks it up again when he
starts to milk the next cow and his hands become
more or less contaminated from the stool and from
BASNS AND STOCK
91
them the dirt drops into the milk pail during the
milking.
When the milking is over, the stool is left in the
yard or on the barn floor. It is so easy to make a
small rack and to bore holes in the legs of the
STOOL RACK
stool, so that they may be hung up. This keeps
them out of the dirt and it is only necessary to
brush them off carefully once in a while to keep
them scrupulously clean.
The man who -is constantly changing his mind
usually has little to change.
A USEFUL STOCK CART
Here is a handy transfer cart, made with wheels
and crossarch of an old corn plow to carry a hog
92
HANDY FARM DEVICES
or sheep, pigs or a calf. Raise the tongue, which
lets the rear end on ground, then drive in the animal,
TRANSFER CART FOR SMALL ANIMALS
shut the gate, pull tongue down and you have your
load ready to fasten to a wagon.
HOW TO STAKE OUT STOCK
A convenient and simple contrivance so that no
harm can come to the animal is to drive two stakes
several feet apart and stretch a rope or wire on
cow TIED OUT TO FEED
which a ring is placed. To this ring fasten haltef
strap. . The animal can graze up and down on both
sides without tangle or injury. The ring slides,
and the stretched wire will give some.
BARNS AND STOCK 93
FEED BOX FOR FIELD
A handy feed box for use in open lots or when
steers are being fed upon grass is shown in the
cut. Cut a barrel in
two and strengthen
the halves by plac-
ing a frame of two
boards across the
inside, as shown in
this sketch. This
will prevent the tub
being" smashed and
will allow four
animals to eat out
of the trough with-
out bothering each
" -' — ' ' '"" other unnecessarily.
TUB FEED BOX Ti • • ^ ^ ^i /
It IS important that a
very strong barrel be selected and that the hoops
be nailed to each stave.
Be advis'd;
Heat not a furnace for your foe so hot
That it do singe yourself: we may outrun,
By violent swiftness, that which we run at.
And lose by over-running. — Henry VHI.
Have more than thou showest.
Speak less than thou knowest.
Lend less than thou owest.
Ride more than thou goest.
Learn more than thou trowest.
Set less than thou throwest. — King Lear.
Use or practice of a thing is the best master.
94 HANDY FARM DEVICES
CHEAP SHEDS OF STRAW
It would pay every farmer to put up in the pas-
tures some kind of protection for his sheep, hogs
and cattle. Where labor is scarce and hay and straw
is plentiful and cheap, a condition which prevails
in many large sections, straw sheds and barns are
very profitable. Put up a framework of posts 8
feet high, i6 feet wide and as long as needed; 30
feet is a good length.
The posts are hewed evenly on two sides and set
so that a bale of straw will fit snugly between them.
They are cut off at a uniform height and a 2 x 6
spiked securely on top. Rafters are nailed to this
and covered loosely with poles. Baled straw is
used for the sides.
After the sides are up the roof is covered 2 feet
deep with loose straw held in place with a few
poles that are tied together in pairs and placed over
the ridge. Several of these sheds have been built
for five years and have not needed any attention.
Life is made up not of great sacrifices or duties,
but of little things, in which smiles and kindness,
and small obligations given habitually, are what
win and pre.=erve the heart and secure comfort. —
Sir H. Davy.
You must cut your coat according to your cloth.
FEED TROUGH FOR SHEEP
For a sheep trough procure two 6-inch boards,
a, about 3 feet long and at the bottom of each fasten
another board, b. Make a flat trough and let the
BARNS AND STOCK
95
ends project above the top. Bore a hole through
each end and also through the standards, a, and
hang the trough on bolts. After the sheep eat and
SWINGING SHEEP TROUGH
leave the cobs, or if it rains, the trough can be
turned bottom side up and quickly cleaned.
The luck that I believe in
Is that which comes with work.
And no one ever finds it
Who's content to wish and shirk.
The men the world calls lucky-
Will tell you, every one.
That success comes, not by wishing,
But by hard work, bravely done.
A NOVEL FEED RACK
An overhead manger, as shown in the sketch,
is excellent for sheep or calves. It should hang
just high enough so that they will pass under with-
90
HANDY FARM DEVICES
out rubbing their backs. When filled with hay
from above they will eat of it at their pleasure, and
at the same time it will not take up floor space.
HANGING RACK
Such a manger is not suitable for grains or fine
•cut fodders, as too much may be wasted.
A WHEELBARROW SHEEP TROUGH
It very often happens that one wishes to run
the sheep on several different pastures during the
PORTABLE RACK FEEDER
BARNS AND STOCK
97
season. If heavy feed racks are used it is quite a
task to move them. The drawing shows a rack
that can be easily moved from one field to another
by one person. It is simply mounted upon a pair
of wheels and has handles on the other end.
If the rack is made very large, it can be easily
attached to a wagon, and thus drawn from place to
place. The one shown is mounted on old cultivator
wheels.
PACKING THE FLEECE
One of the best ways to pack a fleece is to lay it
upon a table, turn in the head and tail, then the
FLEECE TYING BOX
flanks. After this roll it up into a neat roll and tie
firmly, using such a device as here illustrated.
The tying box is made from light lumber with
slots, as shown, through which the rope is passed.
The fleece is placed upon this rope and the roll
easily tied. Wool buyers prefer to have the fleece
98
HANDY FARM DEVICES
loose, light to handle and elastic and tied up so
that it can be opened if needed.
EASY TO HANDLE HEAVY HOGS
The old fashion of having a lot of help around
at hog-killing time is going out, owing to the use
of better appliances for handling the animals after
killing. You may rig up a simple arrangement so
ONE-MAN BUTCHERING RIG
that you can handle heavy hogs without assistance.
Build a fire box with a flue, b, of three joints of old
stovepipe. The vat is made of heavy galvanized
iron 4 feet long by 2 feet vvide and 18 inches deep.
Over this erect a frame of 2 x 4-inch strips, upon
which place an old traveler from a hay carrier, or
construct one similar to d. With the windlass ar-
rangement, o, and the tackle, e, to which are at-
tached the four feet of the hog, you can convey it
from the vat to the bench. A rope, c, passing over
the pulley at g, serves to pull the carrier, d, over the
bench from the vat.
BARNS AND STOCK 99
HEATING WATER FOR HOG KILLING
A device which is superior to the old iron kettle
for heating water is shown in this sketch. Take a
piece of 2-inch iron pipe 8 feet long and have it
securely screwed into the bottom of a stout vinegar
barrel. In the other end of the pipe screw a large
wooden block.
SIMPLE WATER BOILER
By arranging the affair as shown in the sketch
water in the barrel will be heated rapidly and can
be removed as desired without bothering the fire.
Do not make the mistake of putting a metal cap
on the end of the pipe, or the steam may sometimes
burst the piping before the cap will come off. The
wooden block acts as a safety valve and will fly out
if pressure is too great.
A FARM SLAUGHTERHOUSE
If one butchers his own stock on the farm he
would do well to fix up a small building for a
slaughterhouse. This can be done so easily and
at such small expense that almost any farmer can
afford one. It is generally most convenient to have
100
HANDY FARM DEVICES
it near the hog yard, for then the refuse can be
easily conveyed to the hogs. Indeed it would not
be a half bad idea to have it in some instances a
part of the hog house. The room in which to kill
isLV'.
CARCASS DERRICK
cattle and hogs should not be less than 15 feet
square. This will give plenty of space for the
work. As much of the room should be kept cleat
from fixtures as Dossible.
BARNS AND STOCK lOI
The floor should be made of concrete graded
so that it will all drain to a central opening. A
pipe should carry the liquid from this opening to a
trough in the hog yard. The ideal way would be
to make the walls of concrete for about 3 feet from
the ground. This will make it much easier to keep
the place clean. It is quite necessary that a good
supply of water be close at hand. If possible, a
water pipe with hose attached should be in the
house. This will enable one to flood the floor at
any time.
On page 99 is a picture of a very good device
for handling the carcasses. It is made of a heavy
roller, r, 5 to 6 inches thick, and long enough to
reach across the width of the room. It is sup-
ported in the middle by a bracket, d, detail of which
is shown in the drawing. This makes it possible
to lift a carcass of any weight. A drum, b, is at-
tached to the roller at one end, over which is run
the rope that communicates with the crank, a, at
the floor. Any man handy with tools can make
this derrick.
In order to simplify matters one may use a barrel
cart water heater. This barrel has a valve attached
at the bottom. To this is fastened a rubber hose
that communicates with a small coil of pipes. This
coil of pipes in turn communicates with the top of
the barrel by another rubber hose. The coil of
pipes is placed over a fire built in a hole in the
ground, and the valve is opened.
As soon as the water in the coils becomes hot it
is forced through the rubber hose, and a circulation
is started. This device will heat water very rapidly
and easily. When the water is heated the rubber
hose is detached and the barrel wheeled under the
I02
HANDY FARM DEVICES
derrick on which the hog is hung. By means of a
crank the carcass is let into the water to be scalded.
With simple devices one man can very easily do
the butchering alone. It will be found convenient
to have a table that folds up against the side of the
building on which to cut up the meat.
KEEP PIGS OUT OF FEED TROUGH
To prevent hogs crowding and getting in the
trough with their feet the accompanying plan will
be found practical. You can nail the Vs, or rick-
PARTITIONED HOG TROUGH
rack work, on any shaped trough. They fit on a
pointed qr flat-bottomed trough equally well. Nail
a strip lengthwise along the top of the Vs to
strengthen them. Stakes driven at intervals and
nailed securely to the angles will hold the Vs and
trough both solid.
MOVABLE HOUSE FOR BREEDING SOWS
Individual hog houses may be constructed with
four upright walls and a shed roof, as shown beloW.
The walls and the roof are separate and can be
easily taken down and replaced. These small
BARNS AND STOCK IO3
houses can be moved about very easily. The size
of the house will depend upon conditions. The
CONSTRUCTION OF THE HOUSE
construction is shown, so that any farmer with tools
can easily put up one of these houses. With the
individual houses the sow at farrowing time may be
kept alone and away from all disturbance and
there will not be too large a number of pigs in a
THE HOUSE SET UP
J04 HANDY FARM DEVICES
small lot if kept in this way. The danger of spread-
ing diseases among the animals is also reduced to
a minimum where swine are kept more isolated.
When properly bedded and cared for no disastrous
disease need be feared. Much depends upon the
sanitary conditions.
WELL-ARRANGED HOG LOTS
An Indiana farmer keeps his pigs in long houses
which are divided into compartments opening into
small lots. The sketch shows how they stand.
Breeding hogs and fattening shotes are allowed
the run of their own lots, as well as occasional
PIG HOUSES AND PENS
changes into the larger field, shown at the bottom
of the sketch, which is a timothy and clover pas-
ture. It is better to have pigs in separate quarters
in small bunches, for in this way they can be better
attended to and the growths are more uniform.
BARNS AND STOCK
105
HANDY PIG CATCHER
Here is a homemade device for catching small
pigs which saves much time and annoyance. The
net may be made from a
discarded lawn tennis
net, the rim from a
bicycle wheel, and the han-
dle is a heavy rake handle.
The net is securely fas-
tened to the rim with some
copper wire, while the rim
is fastened to the handle
with two pieces of
band iron. Small pigs
caught in the net will not
squeal and struggle as
when chased around the
pen and caught by one leg.
The element of excitement
is greatly reduced by use of
the net, and some would
find less fun in the net
method. On the whole, however, we recommend it.
PIG NET
The weakest arm is strong enough that strikes
with the sword of justice.
Our knowledge is the amassed thought and ex-
perience of innumerable minds. — Emerson.
STAIRS FOR THE BARN
A lot of time is saved if one has handy stairs
which can be used for throwing down hay as well
as a passageway. These steps are made of light
lOO
HANDY FARM DEVICES
material and instead of putting on a lower step, use
a block, c, and attach the stringers of the stairs to it
at each end with a pin. A rope passes over the
CROSS-SECTION WITH STAIRS
pulleys at d, to a weight, which allows the stairway
to be held upright while the hay is being put down.
The rope, e, is handy to pull the stairs into position.
HANG UP THE LANTERN
Here is a good idea for hanging a lantern over
the barn floor. Get two pulleys with screw stems,
and screw on in beam over head, the other at top of
post. Have a bracket lower on the same post.
Take a piece of small but strong cord, and at
BARNS AND STOCK
107
one end fasten a snap and pass
Put
your
the other
lantern on
end
the
through the pulleys
snap and draw it
high enough so it
will be out of reach
of forking hay, and
you can see all over
the barn floor. You
can raise the lan-
tern high enough
to pitch hay from
the top of the mow
with no danger of
turning the light
over and burning
the building and
contents.
The end of the
cord opposite the
lantern may be
fastened with a snap, or more length may be al-
lowed for adjusting the height of the lantern, and
the cord may be secured by a hitch or a few turns
around a button or two spikes driven halfway in
and bent over in opposite directions.
PULLEY-HUNG LANIERN
ARRANGEMENT FOR WEIGHING
A homemade balance may be constructed with a
joist loosely attached, so as to just balance over the
rounded top of a heavy block. It will be useful in
weighing hay and other bulky substances for feed-
ing purposes. For weights, use small wooden
boxes or bags of stone and sand which have been
weighed on other scales. Place the required weight
upon the balance and then place feed on the other
io8
HANDY FARM DEVICES
end until it balances the weight, and it will be ac-
curate enough for all ordinary purposes.
A BARN WINDLASS
It is easily made of iron pipe or a bar fastened
to the ladder or other suitable support by means
of eyebolts or stout sta-
ples, as shown at a in the
drawing. It may be used
for raising grain, wagon
boxes and other heavy
things to the upper part
of the barn, and, if desired,
may be rigged with block
and falls, so as to increase
the power without increas-
ing the effort. A loose bolt
placed in a hole will pre-
vent unwinding. The pic-
ture shows how simple this device is. Every farmer
knows how useful a barn windlass may be.
GRAIN BOX EASY TO EMPTY
WINDLASS
The trouble with most grain boxes is to get out
the last third of the grain. Bending over the edge
jackknife fashion is neither pleasant nor healthful.
A box or bin may be made with half its front on
hinges, so that it can be let down and all the con-
tents scooped out without difficulty. The bin may
be made from a piano box with a partition in the
middle for two kinds of grain.
Leave your son a good reputation and an ems
ployment.
BARNS AND STOCK lOQ
EASILY CONSTRUCTED GRAIN BINS
Grain bins with compartments for different kinds
of feed are handy in barn or stable. By procuring
a number of dry-goods boxes, all of the same size
and shape, and nailing them together side by side,
so that they will appear as one, the bin is easily
made. The cover should extend the entire length
of the bin, and though leather hinges will answer,
it is better to attach it with iron ones, for then, with
a good staple and hasp, the contents can be kept
under lock and key if desired.
A CONVENIENT BARN TRUCK
No dairyman can afford to ignore that which
will lighten his labor in any way whatever. Be his
stable ever so conveniently constructed, he has
enough to do. Hence the importance of his con-
sidering a feeding truck or car if he does not have
one. Made of good lumber, the only iron about it
need be the handle at each end, by which to push or
pull it along the feeding alley in front of the cows
which are to be fed, and the small trucks on which
it is mounted. The wheels procured, any good
blacksmith can make these, so that the truck is by
no means difficult to construct. The box body
should be about 2 feet wide, 20 inches deep and
4j4 feet long. Silage can be conveyed in it from
the silo to the mangers very readily. If the silo
is some distance away, it will save much hard
work.
If little labor, little are our gaines :
Man's fortunes are according to his paines.
— Herrick.
no
HANDY FARM DEVICES
TAKES A MAN'S PLACE
In most cases it takes two men to fill a sack of
grain, but by using
the sack holder
one man can do it
alone. Make a
platform, b, 20
inches square, and
fasten to it a 2 x 4,
c, with notches cut
in. The arms, a,
should be 18 inches
long. Make the
upright piece 3
feet long so that
long bags can be
handled. Some
bags will require a
still longer upright
piece. A device that
takes the place of a
man or enables a man to work twice as fast as he
could without it is worth while.
SACK HOLDER
A wise old owl sat on an oak,
The longer he stayed the less he spoke.
The less he spoke the more he heard.
Why are not more of us like that wise old bird?
There are but two ways of paying debt : increi
of industry in raising income, increase of thrift
lavinf out. — Carlvle.
laying out. — Carlyle.
increase
in
If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well
It were done quickly. — Macbeth.
BARNS AND STOCK
III
A HANDY BAG HOLDER
It is constructed with two good boards I inch
thick and 15 inches wide. The perpendicular one
is 3>4 feet long, and the horizontal one 2 feet
long. These are joined together and braced as
shown in the draw-
ing, and the hopper
is attached, wedged
out from the per-
pendicular board so
the bag may wrap
it all the way
round. The hooks
for holding the bag
in place can be se-
cured at a hardware
store. As the whole
affair, if composed
of thoroughly sea-
soned lumber is
light to handle, it
can easily be
carried to any
spot where grain
is to be put up.
Here is another scheme that saves time and labor
and makes it possible for one man to do the work
that usually requires two. This one is as good and
perhaps better than any device that has been in-
vented in the bag-holder line. In making it, an
important point is to attach all parts very securely
where they come together, especially the hopper and
the braces. Otherwise, with hard usage the holder
will get loose and break down.
BAG HOLDER
112 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A CORN HUSKING RACK
Many who husk their corn by hand find it very
tiresome to sit on the floor or ground in a cramped
position. A rack made as shown in the drawing
RACK FOR CORN HUSKING
will hold two or three shocks and gives a better
place for the husker to sit. Place the stalks cross-
wise of the bench in front of you.
A HOMEMADE FEED CUTTER
An old lawn mower can be arranged to make a
fairly satisfactory straw or feed cutter. One must
WORKING THE LAWN MOWER
BARNS AND STOCK
"3
rig up a hopper, as shown in the sketch, and at-
tach the mower to the lower end of it so that the
straw or grain will just strike the knives where
the grass usually comes into the mower. A crank
and a belt arrangement makes it easy for one man
to feed and turn the cutter. This is a good use for
a lawn mower in the winter time when it is not
working outdoors.
SAW ROOT CUTTER
Those who have cut roots in the winter time
with a butcher knife or hatchet will fully appreciate
something better
ll.J for a root cutter.
A Wisconsin
farmer has found
a serviceable
homemade lever
cutter very efS-
cient for all roots.
For hard ones,
like rutabagas, it
is about the best
thing available.
His is made out of an old hand saw, sharpened on
the back, fastened by means of a bolt passing
through a hole punched at the small end, and held
by a guide formed of two pieces of wood secured
upright, so as to have a slit for the saw to work in.
This contrivance is a success, and with a little prac-
tice the roots may be cut very rapidly. See accom-
panying illustration. The cutter may be mounted
upon the wall wherever it will be most convenient.
The bench or platform should be at about the height
of a common table.
ROOT CUTTER
114 HANDY FARM DEVICES
HOMEMADE CABBAGE CUTTER
A cheap and easily made cabbage and root
cutter is shown in the drawing. Take two
12-inch boards and
nail them strongly-
together. With di-
viders mark around
a circle, then saw
out and mark in
quarters. Cut four
slots 7 inches long
on a slant, as shown
by dotted lines, so
the cabbage will fall
through easily. Next
cut two circles 4
inches in diameter.
Nail one to the large
wheel on the back
and leave the other
loose on the shaft
to act as a bearing.
Make a frame to
admit the wheel, leaving 2 inches clear, and just
wide enough so the knives do not strike the side.
Make a top over the wheel and put a hopper on the
opposite side from the crank. The knives are 8
inches long and can be made from an old bucksaw
and ground down sharp, with a bevel on one side.
"Screw these on the wheel at a slant according to the
thickness the cabbage is wanted. A square hole
should be cut through the center of the wheel for
the shaft.
CABBAGE CUTTER
Kindle not the fire that you cannot extinguish.
TARMS AND STOCK 1 15
A SUBSTANTIAL DRIVEWAY
A plank driveway to the barn is usually made
steep in order to save planks. It is continually
wearing out and breaking. A substantial driveway
with an easy grade can be made by driving down
stakes close together on either side, and filling in
between with stones, rubbish and earth, packing all
down firmly. When full to the top, pack some
earth against the outside of the stakes and sod over
the sides. This driveway will form an easy rise
and will prove very durable.
FEEDING DRY GROUND GRAIN
OME of our friends have found that
a poultry feed hopper for feeding
ground grain has proved very-
satisfactory. Malte a box i8 x i8
inches and 6 inches deep, then take
off one end and fasten to the back
with hinges, which forms the cover.
Nail a strip, a, 3 inches wide across the open side
at bottom, which forms the box for the poultry to
eat from. Take a board, h, the width of inside of
box, 14 inches long, and insert in front of box, nail-
ing as shown in cut, with the upper end even with
front edge of box and slanting in until a space of
2 inches is left between bottom of
board and back of box to allow the
feed to pass through.
The feed is poured into this hop-
per and runs down into the box at
the bottom as fast as needed. The
size of the hopper can be varied to
suit the size of the flock. It should
be screwed to wall of poultry
house about 12 inches from floor. By using this
hopper one may keep a dry mixture consisting of
wheat bran and middlings and occasionally corn
meal, or a small amount of linseed meal, always
before the fowls. In addition, some people feed a
mixture of whole corn, oats and wheat in the litter
morning and evening, also ground green bone and
beef scraps.
116
FEED HOPPER
POULTRY AND BEES II7
KEEPING THE WATER CLEAN
Few drinking fountains are more successful than
a large bottle or jug filled with water and inverted.
It can be fastened wherever convenient with straps.
If a small pan is placed close beneath it the water
will flow out as it is used and will remain clean and
cool. Place it high enough above the floor of the
house so the fowls will not scratch litter into the
pan.
A WATERING RACK FOR HENS
Build a crate of lath 2 feet square, 3 feet high,
with a slanting cover to keep the hens off the top.
Then tack an 8-inch
board in front, level
with floor of crate.
Nail the rack to post
or side of henhouse
about 2>4 feet from
floor, and put your
water pan in crate.
The hens will quickly
learn to fly up and
drink by putting corn
on the lighting board.
This contrivance
keeps the hens from
spilling their water
or scratching dust or
chaff into it. Be sure
to nail the rack securely to the wall or post where
it is put up.
RACK
PLACE
Keep your shop and your shop will keep you.
Ii8
HANDY FARM DEVICES
DRINKING FOUNTAIN
The best drinking fountain, in that it is impossible
for small chicks to get drowned, and they cannot
stand in the water
to befoul it, is made
by inverting a can
or pail in a pan a
trifle larger. To-
mato cans with the
edges pounded
down, leaky pails
with the ears bent
up, in fact anything
with a smooth top
and in which a hole
can be made, can
be used. Punch a hole or holes in the side just a
little less distance from the top than the depth of
the pan to be used. Fill with water, invert the
pan over the top, and turn over quickly.
CHICKEN FOUNTAIN
FOLDING CHICKEN ROOST
This roost is made of 3-inch boards cut any de-
sired length. A small bolt fastens the upright
MOVABLE ROOST
POULTRY AND BEES
1191.
pieces at their top ends, and the horizontal pieces
are fastened on with nails. This roost can be kept
at any angle, and may be quickly taken out of the
house when it is time to clean up. This sort of
roost will accommodate more fowls in the same
space than the flat kind, but it should not be made-
very high.
A GOOD POULTRY NEST
A useful trap nest can be made of grocery boxes.
They should be at least 12 inches each way. The
illustration shows
how they are made.
In the cut the trap
is set ready for the
hen to enter. A
cleat, c, is fastened
to a small piece of
cord, which is tied
to a nail on the
side of the box.
Set the trap by
raising it and rest-
ing the cleat on the
nail, with the other
end under the arm marked a. This leaves an open-
ing from 4 to 6 inches wide, which is not enough
for the hen to enter. In going into the nest she
will be obliged to raise the trap door, which will let
the cleat fall, thus closing the trap after the hen
has gone in.
The trap door, the arms and the cleats may be
made out of lath. Leave a little space between the
boards in the walls, so the heat can escape, other-
wise it will be too warm in summer. The bottom
TRAP NEST
120
HANDY FARM DEVICES
board, b, in front should be 3 or 4 inches wide, and
the lower piece of the trap door should rest against
this so the hen cannot get her head through, raise
the trap and get out.
TWO COOPS FROM A BARREL
Very good coops can be made at small cost from
empty barrels, as shown in this picture. First,
drive shingle nails through the hoops on both sides
of each stave and clinch them down on the
inside. Then divide the barrel in halves, if it is
big enough, by cutting through the hoops and the
BARREL CHICKEN COOP
bottom. Drive sticks into the ground to hold the
coop in place, and drive a long stick at each side
of the open end just far enough from coop to allow
the front door to be slipped out and in. The night
door can be made of the head from the barrel or
any solid board, and the slatted door, used to con-
fine the hen, by nailing upright strips of lath to a
■crosslath at top and bottom.
Weak men wait for opportunities; strong men
make them. — Harden.
POULTRY AND BEES
A BOX CHICKEN COOP
121
The diagram shows a convenient way to make a
coop for the poultry yard, of which the special fea-
ture is its door. Procure a box of the right
dimensions and saw a hole, d, in one end. Then
strengthen the box with narrow strips of wood,
i, c, on each side of the hole h, c. This acts as a
HINGELESS DOOR IN COOP
groove for the door, a, to slide in. Thus you have
a sliding door, which opens and shuts with the
greatest ease. The front of the coop is inclosed
with lath, or narrow strips, placed 2^ to 3 inches
apart. The top should be covered with a good
grade of roofing paper to make it waterproof. A
coop of this sort should be 2 to 23^ feet long, 16
inches deep and 2 feet high.
A LOW POULTRY RUN
A safe and secure run that requires less material
than a high pen can be made from laths sawed in
two, which would make the sides 2 feet high, mak-
ing the frame of scantlings and the top of sawed
laths, box boards or similar material. The top of
122
HANDY FARM DEVICES
the run should consist almost entirely of trap doors,
using bits of old harness for hinges, which will look
well if cut neatly. The picture shows one of the
doors propped up to show the construction more
plainly. The doors are 4 feet long, the lengfth of
a lath, and may be 8 to 10 feet the other way and
still not be clumsy, being constructed of such light
material. This trap door is an important feature.
TRAP-DOOR POULTRY COOP
as it permits the tender to enter easily for remov-
ing top soil and replacing with fresh earth, or
otherwise caring for the birds. The frame material
is of 2 X 2-inch scantling at the corners, while the
side strips are made of inch boards sawed 2 inches
wide. The earth under this run should be slightly
mounded for the sake of dryness.
Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing
well. — Earl of Chesterfield.
POULTRY AND BEES I23
A PORTABLE CHICKEN COOP
One of the annoyances about an ordinary chicken
coop is that it is not easily moved from place to
place, nor provided with a yard. To obtain a yard
the coop must be moved separately, and thus re-
■quire the loss of more or less time. In the draw-
ing shown herewith is a simple, homemade coop,
COOP EASILY MOVED
which can very easily be moved by the aid of the
handles at the apex at each end. The coop is built
•of ordinary material on a base frame, and with a
V-shaped roof and side frames. The ridge pole is
extended, as shown at each end, to form a handle.
A convenient length is about 2 feet for the coop
and 3 or 4 feet for the yard. If desired, the hen
may be allowed the freedom of the yard or may be
held in by slats, as shown in the drawing.
A HOMEMADE BROODER
The material costs about $2 and a handy person
can build one in a day. The gas from the lamp
'does not go into the chick apartment at all, but
filters around under the floor, making it dry and
mrarm. The lamp flame is about 3 inches from the
124
HANDY FARM DEVICES
sheet iron. The heat flows up gently through the
drum, /, which is perforated with holes in the side,
thus letting part of the heat out into the hover
and the balance in the brooder above. The
heat reservoir, g, between the sheet iron, k, and the
floor, c, is about i inch deep. The tube, /, should
not touch the sheet iron, merely extending through
the floor, c. It takes very little oil.
fJ^f^^J^^^/^^/77
v///^^^^/^7rh
4'
DETAILS OF BROODER
In the cut, a, is the paper roofing over inch-
matched boards, b; c is board floor of same material ;
d are small windows, e is the hover, h are holes in
each side of the brooder for the escape of gas and
fumes, / shows door to reach the lamp, n air space
below the floor.
MOVABLE BROODER HOUSE
The type of house shown in the cut is one of the
best for raising poultry. It may be built on run-
ners, with a tight board floor of matched boards.
A convenient size is 6 feet wide and lo feet long,
6 feet high in front and 4 feet at the rear. The
POULTRY AND BEES
125
■door is in the middle, and there is a window on each
side, with two openings below. The roof should
be covered with a good quality of prepared roofing.
HOUSE ON RUNNERS
The same material used to cover the sides will
make the house warmer. Roosts may be put in
after the brooders are taken out, and the chickens
easily protected from foxes and other animals.
A VERY CHEAP HENHOUSE
It was built by a " down east " Yankee. The
studs and rafters were made of two pieces of i x 2-
inch stuff nailed together T shape. These were set
up 2 feet ID inches apart on centers and covered
with wire netting drawn taut. This was then cov-
ered with tarred paper, which made the only ma-
terial between the fowls and the outside air. They
have wintered in these houses without discomfort,
and gave a good egg yield. The wire netting pre-
vented the paper from sagging when the house was
covered with snow.
They can who think they can.
126 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A DAYLIGHT CHICKEN CATCHER
Do you, when you want fried chicken on short
notice, run it down, provided it doesn't run you
down? Here is a better way. Fasten a barrel hoop'
securely to a handle about 6 feet long, and to it
fasten a bag about 3 feet deep. A piece of an old
hammock is fine for a bag, or horse net or fish net
— anything the chicken cannot get out of. Lay it
on the ground, call the chicken and throw the com
over the bag, and when one suitable goes on lift
up the hoop and you have it. If the bag is made
not over i foot deep it can be dropped down over
the chicken while eating.
A SIMPLE HAWK TRAP
Make a box 4 inches deep, 6 inches square and nail
to a 4-foot pole with cleats at the bottom to keep
from turning over. Cover top of box with i-inch
mesh wire. Place a little chicken in the box; then
put a steel trap on top of box and set it out under
the trees where the hawks lodge to watch for the
chickens. If there are hawks around, it is pretty
sure to catch them.
SCARE AWAY CROWS AND HAWKS
For keeping hawks and crows away from the
poultry yards, get a few bright tin shingles, link
them together with wire, and hang upon an arm
extending from the top of a high pole, where sun
and wind strike fairly. The jingle and glitter is
sufficient to keep these pests at a safe distance.
You will also find them useful in the corn and
melon fields where crows are troublesome.
POULTRY AND BEES
127
Wi
5«
PRACTICAL HIVES AND HIVE MAKING
^VERY apiarist knows that there is
no item in bee keeping of more
practical importance than the hive
and brood frame. The Langstroth,
or Simplicity size of frame has be-
come almost standard, for there
are more frames of this size in use
than all others combined. The frame proper is
17^ inches long, g}i inches deep, and the top bar
is 19 inches long. There are several styles made,
but many prefer what is known as the Hoffman.
This has a heavy top bar in depth, as well as width.
The ends, or end bars, are made 1% inches wide
for about 3 inches down and one side is worked off
to a knife edge, which comes against the square
edge of the next frame, making them self-spacing,
but not a closed-end frame, and allowing the proper
bee space between the top bars. This works fairly
well without the use of the honey board, though
one is preferable.
The hive for this frame, to be best adapted
to the production of comb or extracted honey,
should contain 10 frames, the in-
side dimensions being 15 inches
wide, 10 inches deep and i8}i
inches long. A follower can be
used at one side to assist in re-
moving frames by first removing
the follower or division board.
This arrangement leaves % inch
between the top of the frames
and the top of the brood nest, so ,
that when the surplus cases are double-wallei>
put on the proper bee space is hive
128
HANDY FARM DEVICES
preserved. This hive is made of scant ^^-inch lum-
ber for the outside, ship-lapped together in a man-
ner to make a perfect joint. It is 20 inches wide,
24 inches long, about 20 inches high to the eaves,
or roof, outside measurements, and weighs complete
about 50 pounds. The inside dimensions of the brood
nest should be the same as any 8 or lo-frame hive,
as the bee keeper may prefer. The brood nest is
raised sufficiently to admit of packing between it
and the hive proper, also a space for packing at
ends and sides.
DOVETAILED HIVE
The lower portion of the hive being well pro-
tected against the cold, the warmth of the bees
will care for the upper portion. To avoid conden-
sation cover the brood nest after removing the
surplus cases with a porous substance, or chaff
cushion. Make a wooden rim about 4 inches deep,
covering the top and bottom with burlap and fill-
ing with wheat chaff or cut straw. Many prefer
the cut straw both for cushions and packing the
POULTRY AND BEES
129
hives. This rim should be made a little smaller
than the inside of the hive.
In extremely warm v^reather the cover can be
raised a few inches in front, giving a circulation
of air all around the surplus department, and shad-
ing it at the same time. The cover is hinged at
the back end, and when raised, as shown in cut,
makes two shelves for the use of the operators,
which are highly appreciated; besides, there is no
lifting on or off of covers, as is the case in other
liives. The alighting board is hinged and can
touch the ground, which is of great advantage to
the bees during a heavy flow of honey.
Perhaps there are more single-walled hives used
in the United States than double-walled or chaff
hives, but in northern states a double-walled hive
is preferable.
DEVICE FOR EXTRACTING BEESWAX
Wax, as produced by the bees and worked into
comb, is almost pure white, but, on being melted
SOLAR WAX EXTRACTOR
and cooled, is yellow. A man who knows advises
every beekeeper to use the solar wax extractor.
130 HANDY FARM DEVICES
All that is necessary is to have a box with glass to
fit over it, as shown in the drawing. To melt
combs, put in the box an old dripping-pan, having
a hole at one corner, and that corner the lowest,
with some kind of a dish set under to catch the
wax. Set in the sun. To get the most out, break
up the combs into fine pieces, then soak in water
for a day or two Iqnger before rendering.
SELF-FEEDER FOR BEES
A very simple device for feeding bees on syrup
may be made if you take an ordinary fruit can, fill
it full of syrup and over the top tie a thick rag with
a string. Then invert the can in a small pan or
dish. The syrup will seep out through the rag
around the edges of the jar just fast enough for the
bees to keep it cleaned up.
r^.
GARDEN AND
ORCHARD
r \
AN IRON HOOP TRELLIS
HIS trellis is made of the iron
hoops that are now used so com-
monly upon sugar and other bar-
rels. They are of stout wire,
welded into a complete circle, and,
as barrels are constantly going to
pieces, one can get together quite
a collection of these, when they can be assorted
into uniform sizes.
An attractive trellis is shown. Three strips of
wood, pointed at the lower end
and finished with a knob at the top,
are provided, the length being a
matter for individual taste. A
trellis for tomato plants will need
not more than two hoops,
while one for sweet peas may re-
quire a half dozen. The strips of
wood should be of inch board, 2
inches wide. The hoops are se-
cured to the uprights by small
staples made for putting up wire
fencing. The wooden posts may
be oiled or painted some attrac-
tive color. This trellis will be
greatly appreciated both in the vegetable and
flower gardens, for its strength and attractiveness.
w-v-ii^x^'krv
THE TRELLIS
Diligence is the mother of good luck. — Franklin.
131
J32 HANDY FARM DEVICES
PLANT SUPPORTS OF BARREL HOOPS
The ordinary wooden hoops from barrels may be
made into an attractive trellis for grapes or a sup-
port for smaller twining plants by being arranged
HOOP TRELLISES
as shown in the sketch. Attach them firmly to
heavy stakes with some No. 7 smooth wire and you
have an arrangement which will last for several
years and is not unattractive to the eye.
A FOLDING TRELLIS
A good way to pole beans is to make a folding
trellis out of plastering lath, as shown in the cuts.
Bore three small holes through
each lath, as shown in the first cut
and fasten them together with
TRELLIS FOLDED ■ -i n i- i. j
common wire nails well clinched.
GAEDEN AND ORCHARD
133
Five-foot posts are set i foot in the ground and a
wire strung at top and bottom. The lath are fastened
to the wires with string, as shown in the second
cut. The trellis is made in sections so as to be
TRELLIS IN PLACE IN THE GARDEN
easily handled. When not in use it is folded up
and laid away under shelter. The posts are spaced
evenly so that one section of trellis will just go be-
tween two posts.
EASY WAY TO POLE BEANS
Set posts at convenient distances apart and
stretch a wire at the top. This may be done as-
soon as ground is plowed. Plant and cultivate one
row each side of line until beans begin to vine, then
TRELLIS FOR BEANS
set poles slanting, tying them together where they
cross at the wire. This braces the whole row and
beans can be cultivated with hoe. Hills 3 feet apart
in row with one vine to hill are better than two'
vines.
134
HANDY FARM DEVICES
TRELLIS THAT STANDS ALONE
A plant support or garden trellis, such as shown
in the drawing, is very handy in the garden. This
double form of
trellis can be fold-
ed up and takes
very little room in
storage. All trel-
lises and stakes
should be gath-
ered as soon as
the crop is har-
vested and stored
under cover until
the next season.
' They are useful
for tomatoes, beans, peas, cucumbers and other
plants that need some support. The double trellis
is built of narrow ^-inch slats and pieces of 2 x 3,
which are bolted together for the legs. The top
may be held in place by pieces of string or wire
attached at the points indicated in the drawing.
The length, width and height of this trellis should
depend upon the use to be made of it. A large one
will be wanted for a large spreading plant and a
small one for a small plant. It is important to
have trellises just the right size to give proper
support.
PROTECTING NEWLY SET PLANTS
DOUBLE FORM OF TRELLIS
Plants newly transplanted always demand more
or less protection from the blighting effects of too
much sun and wind. It is best achieved by inak-
ing a shelter such as is shown in the cut. Two 10-
GARDEN AND ORCHARD
135
foot poles and two 3'foot pieces of any convenient
thickness for the crosspieces, with four 14-inch
weather-strips for the legs, constitute the frame.
In the middle of it two hooks should be inserted on
each side, and upon these the covering fastened,
which can thus be adjusted very quickly. The cov-
ering may consist of burlap or any kind of rough
sacking.
FRAME OPEN AND COVERED
Being so simple and economical to make, it is
advisable to have enough frames to protect the
number of tender plants that are set out in a gar-
den at one time. They possess other advantages
than sheltering the young things from the direct
rays of the sun. They allow slow evaporation, and
so keep newly watered ground moist for hours,
whereas if exposed to the sun and wind it would
soon become dry and caked. On windy days it is
only necessary to let the sacking down on the wind-
ward side of the shelter. In case of frost the pro-
tection that they afford is of inestimable value.
Love thy neighbor, yet pull not down thy hedge.
136 HANDY FARM DEVICES
MAKING THE HOTBED
The value of every vegetable garden can be
greatly increased and the time during which a
supply of fresh vegetables may be secured for the
table greatly lengthened by the use of the common
manure hotbed and the cold frame. These indis-
pensable adjuncts of the good garden are so easily
made and cost so little that it is surprising they
are not more common. A good hotbed made the
latter part of February or in March can be made
to yield an abundant supply of lettuce, radishes,
spinach, etc., for table use by the time such crops
are being planted out of doors, and the supply of
cabbage, tomatoes and other plants for the home
garden can be secured ready to transplant several
weeks earlier than if plants grown in the open were
depended upon.
As a source of heat fresh horse manure is used.
About half manure and half fine straw mixed to-
gether should be piled in square piles 2 or 3 feet
in depth, and 4 or 5 feet in width and long enough
to contain the amount necessary for the beds de-
sired. After heating has well started, the piles
should be forked over, turning the outside of the
old pile to the inside of the new, and when heating
again is well under way the material is ready for
use. In the meantime select a well-drained spot,
sloping to the south, if possible.
Dig a trench 6J^ feet wide, 2 feet deep and as
long as desired, running east and west. Now place
the manure in the trench, tramping and packing in
thin, even layers until level with the surface. Make
a frame 6 feet wide and as long as desired, but
some multiple of three, because the hotbed sash are
always made 3 feet wide. The end piece should
GARDEN AND ORCHARD 137
be 9 inches high in front and 15 inches high in the
back. The front side board should be 9 inches
wide and for the rear it will require two boards,
preferably 12 and 3, with the wide one at the top.
A frame 12 or 15 feet in length will be quite large
enough for the ordinary farm garden. Set this
frame on top of the manure with the slope facing
the south and secured by stakes. On top of the
manure put 6 inches of good garden soil and cover
the frame with common sash or windows 6 feet long
by 3 feet wide. At first the heat will run very
high, but in a few days it will fall to 80 or 90
degrees, when it is safe to plant the seeds.
MAKING PERMANENT HOTBEDS
Hotbed sash should be constructed of white pine
or of cypress, and the sash bars should run in one
direction only, and that lengthwise of the sash. The
bars may be braced through the middle by a trans-
verse bar placed through the long bars below the
glass. The two ends of the sash should be made
of sound timber, 3 inches wide at the top and 4
inches wide at the bottom end, mortised to receive
the ends of the sash bars, and with a tenon at the
ends to pass through the side pieces, which should
be 2j4 inches wide.
A permanent hotbed should be so constructed as
to be heated either with fermenting manure or by
radiating pipes from the dwelling or greenhouse
heating plant. For a permanent bed, in which
manure is to supply the heat, a pit 2 to 2j^ feet
deep, according to the latitude in which the work
is to be done, should be provided.
The sides and ends may be supported by a lining
of plank supported by posts 4 feet apart, or, what
138
HANDY FARM DEVICES
is better still, a brick wall 9 inches thick, as shown
in the drawing, may be used. In either case the
pit lining should come flush with the surface of the
soil. The site for the pit should be on naturally
well-drained land, and a tile drain from the bottom
of the excavation should be provided to prevent the
■i^5#4!& SOIL ^':;m?&M^:
HOTBED WITH BRICK WALLS
water from accumulating in the pit and stopping
the fermentation of the manure during the period
the hotbed is in use.
Standard hotbed sash are 3 by 6 feet. The pit,
therefore, should be some multiple of 3 feet in
length, and the width should be the same as the
length of the sash, 6 feet. The plank frame, or the
brickwork of the pit, may be extended above the
surface of the ground sufficiently to allow for plac-
ing the sash immediately upon these permanent
structures.
HEAT FOR HOTBEDS
Make an excavation 5 x 16 feet on the surface,
and about a foot deep. Lengthwise along this
GARDEN AND ORCHARD 1 39
space lay three rows of tiling, one along the center
and one about a foot from each side. The tiles
should be 4 inches inside measure, and i foot long.
These are placed end to end so as to fit closely,
and earth is pressed around them so as to hold
every piece exactly in place. Then the excavation
is filled with rich soil until level with the surface,
excepting at the end the tiles are left bare for
a few inches. The board frame, 5 x 15 feet, is
next put in place so as to leave 6 inches of each
row of tiles projecting beyond the ends of the
frame.
At the east ends of the bed, a hole should be dug
3x4 feet on surface and 2 feet deep; in this hole
a crude fireplace may be made of loose brick and
the flue connected with the three ends of projecting
tile. At the west end of the frame a brick cham-
ber should be made into which the three tiles
enter, giving them a common flue for outlet.
Cover the top of this chamber closely, excepting a
6-inch circular hole, into which a single length of
stovepipe is fitted. A sloping door is hung over the
fireplace cavity to keep out the rain ; and the earth
raised high enough around to prevent surface water
from running into the hole. Bank soil about the
frame. You may happen to have on hand six old'
storm window sashes of that size. Of course the
sashes slope to the south in the usual way.
When the fire is kindled in the fireplace the
smoke comes freely from the stovepipe. The tiles
are covered with soil to a depth of aljout 6 inches.
With a good fire, you can quickly warm vtp the
earth on the coldest days of spring. And when
once well heated, the earth and tiling hold the heat
for a long time, provided the draft is closed. Unlike
beds heated with manure, the heat supply can thus
140 HANDY FARM DEVICES
be regulated to suit the demand of the prevailing
weather.
COLD FRAMES AND THEIR MANAGEMENT
In the South cold frames are in use all winter.
The principal winter crops grown are lettuce,
radishes, beets, cauliflower and occasionally cab-
bage, while these crops are commonly followed in
spring by cucumbers, cantaloups and sometimes
Irish potatoes. The frames are easily made.
Rough inch lumber (heart pine is best in the South,
and hemlock in the North) and 2 x 4 or 2 x 3-inch
scantling are all that is required. For the double
frames, strips 3 inches wide and % or J/^ inch thick,
long enough to extend across the frame, should be
provided for rafters. The back or north side of the
single frame should be 12 or 15 inches high, while
the front should slope down to 8 inches. In South-
ern practice, where canvas covers are used, the back
should be 2j4 feet and all cracks should be well
covered with building paper, held in place by laths
tacked over it.
Good treatment for the posts used in construc-
tion is to dip them in kerosene over night. This
will preserve them indefinitely. Drive the posts
into the ground 18 inches and let them extend up-
ward to the top of the boards, putting a post at the
union of each pair of boards and nailing them to it.
All ends and rafters may be made so that they
can be quickly removed, so that the frames can be
plowed and the ground prepared with a mule. The
sides of the double frames are best made i foot
high, with the ends sloping upward to 2j^ feet
Down the center of the frame, a row of 2 x 4-incff
posts 2^ feet above ground are set 8 feet apart.
GARDEN AND ORCHARD 14!
Over each one of these a rafter is bent and fastened
to the sides of the frames.
For cold frames in the North, glass is the only
covering to be thought of. By all means, put the
frames up facing the south or southeast and to
afford protection against the north and northwest
winds, cold the country over, a high wall, a thick
hedge, or a piece of thick woodland should be close
at the back of them.
The soil in the frames should be thoroughly pre-
pared, rich and pulverized thoroughly. An abun-
dance of well-rotted stable manure should be used-
if thoroughly decomposed, at the rate of 75 to loo
tons an acre is not excessive, unless the soil is
already very rich. Whether glass or canvas is used,
as a covering great attention must be given to
water and ventilation. The land should be well
drained that no water will stand, or the soil become
water logged ; that is one side of the water ques-
tion, but in addition, the plants should be carefully
watered from time to time to provide sufficient for
their needs.
If the coverings are kept down too constantly,
the growth of the plants will be weak and spindling
and such diseases as damping off, Botrytis and drop
will work havoc with them. Careful attention to
watering, ventilation and keeping the surface of
the ground stirred are the genuine secrets of con-
trolling these pests. Watch the temperature, do
not let it rise too high, lower it by raising the sash
or drawing back the covers. The canvas covers
should be drawn back a portion of every day when
the temperature is not too low, and at other times
the ends may be raised, to allow the air to circulate
under them. A sharp eye must be kept on the
142 HANDY FARM DEVICES
frost item. Sometimes steam heat is provided, oil
stoves may be used and glass covered frames should
be covered with burlap or straw mats, securely held
down either by tying them in place or by weighting
them down. Both canvas and the glass covering
should be well fastened to prevent their being lifted
off by strong winds.
The upper end of glass sash may be held down
with a hook and staple, a hook being placed on the
back of the frame at the center of each sash with
the stEtple in the end of the sash. Canvas covers
are best held down by nailing along the center to a
board run lengthwise on the center of the rafters,
in the case of double coverings, or along the
back in the case of single ones and by placing
marbles or small pebbles in the cloth and tying
about these every 4 or 5 feet, along the ends and
sides, slipping the looped ends of the twine used
in tying them over nails driven into the ends and ,
sides of the frame.
A HAND GARDEN CULTIVATOR
Now that garden crops are planted almost ex-
clusively in rows a tool that will clean out the
weeds, stir the soil around the plants, and, by mak-
ing a good surface mulch, prevent the loss of
moisture to some extent, is essential for the proper
care of the garden. The wheel hoe of our cultiva-
tor is usually used for this purpose by the pro-
fessional gardener, but the price is generally
considered rather high by the ordinary farmer or
amateur.
This machine, although homemade and not very
handsome in appearance, does the work as well as
.a $6 or $8 tool, and cost not more than 40 cents
GARDEN AND ORCHARD I43
to make. For a wheel, take the fly wheel of an old
sewing machine, about i foot in diameter, and put
a round bolt tightly through the axle. Then a
piece of plank, a, 20 x 10 inches, and cut as shown,
boring holes for the axle where marked. After the
wheel is set in place, it should turn easily and
steadily, if balanced properly. For the handle, c c,
cut out and round from a piece of plank two pieces,
or use any that may be otherwise obtained. Thea
get a blacksmith to make three teeth, b, out of a
HAND CULTIVATOR
piece of spring steel i inch wide and 8 inches long,
bent as shown. Two-inch holes are drilled through
them for screws.
One tooth should be placed about 6 inches behind
the wheel and directly in the center, the other two
being 4 inches behind the first, and the same dis-
tance from the center tooth. When this cultivator
is pushed through the rows it should run with
little pressure from the operator, clearing out the
weeds and stirring the soil at the same time. This
contrivance does the work well, and if given two
coats of brown and green paint it will be improved
in appearance.
Know thy opportunity. — Pittacus.
144 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A CONVENIENT GARDEN STOOL
This device will prove useful in doing hand work
in the garden. It is made from two barrel staves
upon which is mounted a low stool.
This, should be narrow, so that it
may be drawn between the rows of
vegetables. The holes in the seat
WEEDING STOOL °, u r ^i, c ^,„ <.^
are large enough for the fingers to
go through and render the stool more easily han-
dled. The device is especially convenient for the
women.
WATERING SEED SOIL MADE EASY
To avoid disturbing small seeds by watering,
when planted in forcing boxes, a plan has been
devised which not only insures against the dis-
turbance of the seed, but keeps the soil of the en-
tire box in a moderate state of moisture, which is
an essential feature in early growth.
Make a box of any desired size to suit the occa-
sion, and about 3 inches deep. Then get a few
small unglazed flower pots and place same on stove
until quite hot. With a short piece of candle, seal
drain hole in bottom of pots, taking care not to put
wax over the entire bottom of pot. Place pots in
box about 9 inches apart on a thin layer of sand, and
overlap pieces of broken pots, to convey by capillary
attraction the water to the entire soil of the box,
which soil should be sifted and box filled to within
}i inch of the top of the pots.
Cover the box with glass, and heat from above
will draw the water up to the roots. By this method
you will not have surface baking, which is so
troublesome with surface watering. If so desired.
GARDEN AND ORCHARD
145
you can cover the pots with circular pieces of paste-
board or tin, and avoid surface evaporation from the
pots. Always fill pots with warm water.
CATCHING OWLS AND HAWKS
A friend of ours captured a large owl and fas-
tened him securely with a small chain to a stake
in the middle of an open field. He
set three posts 5 feet tall and 4 to
5 inches in diameter 20 to 30 yards
from the owl, and on each post
placed a small steel trap with a
bunch of hay or grass tied to the
post just under the trap, to hide it,
as shown in cut. At night, the
owl called. Others came, and see-
ing nothing near, alighted in the
trap on the post. During the day
hawks came, and were caught in
the same way. In two months two
owls and 17 hawks were caught.
In some places a bounty is paid,
§0 there is a profit in two ways.
The owl may be fed on the hawks
caught and on rabbits or chickens
that may die around the premises.
The most difficult part of this scheme is often the
capture of the first owl, but if you are a good hunter
you will find a way.
TRAP ON POST
Make no absolute promises, for nobody will help
you to perform them.
Money is a good servant, but a bad master.
146 HANDY FARM DEVICES
MOVING A LARGE TREE
To move a large tree one may find it very satis-
factory to use a rig similar to that shown in the
picture. Make a three-sided standard of 2 x 4-inch
stuff. Loosen the dirt around the roots of the tree
RIG FOR MOVING TREE
and wrap the tree firmly at the base with old
carpet or burlap to prevent injury. Place the
standard firmly in the ground and tie the cross-
piece to the body of the tree with strong rope to
each side of the standard and hitch a horse to the
GARDEN AND ORCHARD
147
Other end. With a slow pull the tree can be drawn
onto the drag and then hauled to the new location.
It can be placed in the ground ^gain by using the
standard in the same way it was used to load it
upon the drag.
A penny saved is two pence clear,
A pin a day's a groat a year. — Benjamin Franklin.
The man who builds, and wants wherewith to pay,
Provides a home from which to run away. — Young.
TRANSPLANTING TREES
Here is a way to transplant large trees that is not
so difficult as such transplanting is by many sup-
posed to be. The
first move to make
is to dig all round
the tree, leaving a
large ball of soil,
which is carefully
wrapped in sacking
or canvas to hold
it on the roots and
prevent drying.
When this is well
tied in place a
chain is passed
round the ball two
or three times and
hooked, as shown
in Figure i.
Then with a pair figure i — ^balled
148
HAiNDY FARM DEVICES
of heavy wheels on a short axle and a strong pole
laid across it, with a massive iron hook fastened to
the pole, it is easy
to back up to the
tree. The sketch.
Figure 2, shows the
truck with its lever
raised ready to
hook into the
chain. The rope
at the end of the
pole brings it down
and the tree up,
when the pole is
fastened under a
second pair of
wheels. The young
trunk must be
kept from contact
with the machinery
by the free use of
blankets and bags.
The secret of suc-
cess in transplanting trees is to injure the roots
as little as possible.
FIGURE 2 HOOK AND TRUCK
The manly part is to do with might and main
what you can do. — Emerson.
Many things difficult to design prove easy to
performance. — Samuel Johnson.
HOMEMADE FRUIT PICKER
This is a device that is hard to beat for reach-
ing fruit at the top of tall trees. After a little
GARDEN AND ORCHARD
149
practice, a man can operate it rapidly, far out-
stripping hand piclcers and at the same time not
WIRE DETAILS
injuring the fruit.
The construction is
shown in the upper
drawing. The main
frame is of heavy
copper wire, to
which is attached
the strong spring, d.
The end, a, is in-
serted into a wooden
handle as long as
needed. When the muslin sack is attached, as
shown in the picture of the picker in use, the jaws
of the picker are easily closed by pulling slightly
on the cloth. The fruit falls through the sack or
long cloth tube into the hand of the operator. Many
THE PICKER IN USE
•ISO
HANDY FARM DEVICES
devices have been made for this sort of service, but
it will be hard to find one that works better than
this one if constructed in the exact shape indicated.
A TRUSS LADDER
For a 14-foot ladder select four pieces of i x 2
hard wood, using two pieces for each side. Place
rungs of I X 2 between the side
pieces. Make ladder 12 inches
wide at top, 14 inches at center,
and 30 inches at the bottom. Put
a j4-inch bolt through the side
pieces just below the rungs, and
a 6d nail through the end of each
rung to prevent them from slip-
ping out. Keep all bolts tight.
A ladder made as above, of Ore-
gon pine, 14 feet long, supported
on trestles at each end, deflected
but I inch when 150 pounds were
placed on the center. It is light,
yet strong, and it is almost im-
possible to spring it. The special
advantage of a truss ladder is
lightness, which is a very great
THE LADDER 7 . , ^ _ii •
advantage, when strength is com-
bined, as in the case of this particular ladder.
Let us have faith that right makes might ; and in
that faith let us to the end do our duty as we under-
stand it. — Lincoln.
Never spend your money before you've earned
it. Never buy what you do not want; it is not
cheap.
GARDEN AND ORCHARD I5I
ORCHARD LADDER ON WHEELS
The accompanying sketch shows the manner of
construction. Any farmer or orchardist can build
it. Secure two old
mower wheels and
one piece of 2 x 4
scantling for an
axle. Place the
ladder upon this
scantling. To keep
it upright use
poles, two at the
bottom and one
near the top of the
ladder, extending
to the ground.
The upper one
should be forked at
the top so as to
hold the ladder
firmly. This ladder
n r , , . , , LADDER FOR FRUIT TREES
IS 18 feet high, and
as the foundation is broad, there is no danger of it
falling over. The brace is so made that it can be
adjusted, thus enabling one to place the ladder at
any angle.
CONVENIENT SORTING TABLES
Where fruit is packed from the trees a sorting
table will always be found convenient. It generally
saves time and labor to do the packing right in the
orchard. A handy table is one mounted on wheels
which may be of any size desired and should be
large enough to hold at least four barrels. The
152
HANDY FARM DEVICES
wheels can be picked up from discarded machinery
or quickly made by nailing together crosswise two
boards to prevent them from splitting, boring a
hole in the center for the axle and rounding them
off with a key hole saw. One end of the table
should be made several inches higher than the
other, so that the culls will roll into a pile at the
lower end.
0^
OREGON SORTING TABLE
In the Hood river district of Oregon a table such
as shown here is commonly used. This is made to
accommodate two packers. To make such a table
take four standards about 3 feet high. It is made
3x4 feet in size, the top covered with strong bur-
lap or canvas and allowed to hang rather loosely.
Saw off the tops of the legs on a bevel so as not to
have the sharp corners push into the burlap, and
make points that will bruise or cut the fruit.
GARDEN AND ORCHARD 153
A piece of old garden l^ose is generally nailed
around the top of the table to protect the fruit.
Besides the braces shown in the cut it is also well
to wire the legs and braces together firmly, as
there is a heavy load to support. The shelves on
each side are for holding the boxes, as all the good
fruit in this region is boxed. The height is only
relative, the point being to construct it so each
packer can work with the greatest comfort, avoid-
ing back bending in all cases. The top should not be
greater than 3x4 feet, as anything larger would
not allow two packers to reach all points of it
without unnecessary stretching.
FIELD^ANIVWOOD
feet long. We put
an iron band
around the base
and insert the peg
upon which it
turns. About half-
way to the top is
an iron collar,
which has three
loops to it that
form an attach-
ment for the
braces, which are
fastened about 15
feet from the bot-
tom of the central
pole. This allows
the pole to turn
readily when in
upright position.
The top frame-
work is made of
2 X 6-inch pieces
PORTABLE HAY DERRICK
VERY satisfactory derrick for
stacking hay is shown in the
sketch. The base pieces are 6x6
inches by 16 feet. For the center
pole we use a straight round pole
7 inches in diameter at the base
and 5 inches at the top about 24
HAY DERRICK
U4
FIELD AND WOOD
155
12 feet long. The rigging, consisting of three
pulleys and the hay rope, is attached as shown
in sketch. By having the lower pole attached near
the base of the upright the arms will make half a
turn when the hay fork is lifted, thus swinging
around from the ground or wagon onto the stack.
A WIRE TIGHTENER
Here is a device easily made and very convenient
to use in tightening barbed wire when stringing it
upon the posts. Cut
out a piece of inch
board in the shape
shown in the pic-
ture with a notch
to let in the face of
a hammer. Insert
a long bolt at the
point indicated by
the light dotted
lines, to prevent
splitting. Fasten on
the hammer with
leather straps. The
sharp brads should stick out about half an inch.
Carefully finish the handle so that it will be smooth
and not hurt the hands when you are using the
device. It should be made of tough hardwood.
FENCE WIRE REEL
Here is a device on which one can wind barbed
wire that is much better than an old barrel. The
reel is mounted on a truck made of old buggy
wheels with short shafts. The cart may be drawn
TIGHTENER IN USE
156 HANDY FARM DEVICES
along by a man while a boy steadies the reel to keep
it from unwinding too rapidly. For winding up
wire, the machine is best pushed just fast enough
WIRE REEL ON WHEELS
to keep up with the wire as it is being wound on
the reel. A crank placed upon the reel proves
serviceable in winding up.
Never sign a writing till you have read it;
neither drink water till you have seen it.
One part of knowledge consists in being ignorant
of such things as are not worthy to be known.
Get the work habit.
SAFE WAY TO STRING BARBED WIRE
One of the most satisfactory ways to unreel
barbed wire is to make a contrivance similar to
the one shown on page 157. Fasten a short
piece of plank to the front end of a stone boat.
Bore a 2-inch hole in this plank and set the spool
FIELD AND WOOD
157
of barbed wire on top. Run a piece of gas pipe
about 5 feet long through the spool and let the
bottom end rest in the hole made in the plank.
Attach the stone boat to the rear end of the
wagon and have an assistant sit in the wagon and
hold the top end of the pipe. If the wire becomes
kinked the assistant simply lets go of the pipe and
the spool rolls off the boat without breaking the
wire.
WIRE REEL ON BOAT
A BOXED STONE BOAT
A flat stone boat or drag is convenient for many
purposes, but its uses are limited because it has no
great capacity. On page 158 is shown an arrange-
ment for increasing the utility of a stone boat
100 per cent. It is made of plank and has sides
I foot high. It may be used for the purpose for
which the ordinary drag is employed, and in ad-
dition is very convenient for hauling apples, pota-
toes, or other root crops from the field.
By increasing the size of the box, manure can be
158
HANDY FARM DEVICES
hauled out from stables as it is dumped into it from
wheelbarrows without having to reload or wheel up
an incline. It is low on the ground and very con-
venient for loading. All light, bulky articles, as
vrell as heavy stones, bags of fertilizers and seed,
can easily be haulfed on this contrivance.
CAPACIOUS DRAG
A HOMEMADE ROAD ROLLER
If you need a road roller get a heavy sheet iron
cylinder, stand it on end and place a length of i^
ROAD ROLLER
or 2-inch pipe through the center. The end should
be placed on planks which are well soaked or are
FIELD AND WOOD 159
well oiled, knd the pipe braced to keep it exactly
in thfe center. Fill the cylinder with good concrete,
and when it has set tip it over and build a frame
for it, so you can hitch a removable tongue at
either side. The frame should be made of good
strong hardwood well braced. The cuts show
plainly just how the roller is made and put
together.
AN OLD-FASHIONED DROGUE
Drogue is an old-fashioned word applied to a low
drag or sled, something like the stone boat in gen-
eral use now. The word is seldom heard today.
HOMEMADE HANDY DROGUE
So accustomed are we to the regulation stone boat
that most of us do not know that there is still a
more handy arrangement that is fully as easy to
build and better to use, because it cannot slide
sidewise on a hill. Select a small tree that has a
bend in it the shape of a sled runner and split it
with a sharp saw while it is green. It saws fastest
and easiest while frozen. Saw or hew the bottom
and top flat, so planks about 4 feet long may be
pinned to it. Bore the front ends so a heavy .stake
with a shoulder may be inserted to prevent the
runners from drawing together, and the drogue is
done. It is handy for all work, but may need side
rails spiked to it, if small stones are to be drawn.
l6o HANDY FARM DEVICES
Regular boat planks are not easy to obtain now
that the old up and down saws are not in use.
A DITCHING SCRAPER
There should be a ditching scraper on every
farm. They can be purchased made of steel, but
a homemade one costs little and is quite service-
able. Take two planks, each lo inches wide and
3 feet long, of good 2-inch hardwood. Bolt to them
securely a pair of old plow handles. To the bot-
tom bolt an old crosscut saw blade which will
make a sharp edge. Let this project about an inch
at the bottom. Attach two singletree hooks near
each end of the lower board and your scraper is
ready to use. With this scraper and two men a-
ditch can be cut one-quarter mile long and as deep
as it could be plowed with a turning plow in two
days' time. It is also very useful in filling holes in
the highway.
BRIDGE FOR A SMALL STREAM
For crossing a small creek or deep ditch a cheap
bridge can be built as shown in the illustration.
The lumber used is 6 inches wide and 2 inches
thick, except for the floor and four side braces.
A BRIDGE OF TRIANGLES
SAVE THE BARRELS
Barrels, barrel hoops and barrel staves may be worked
into many useful things upon a farm. From the few
described in this book your ingenuity will lead you to others.
AS IN DAYS OF YORE
Modern harvesting machinery has come to take the place
of old-time hand tools on the big farms; but many a reaper
of the ancient type still swings through the golden grain, a
relic of the days when men worked harder and accomplished
less than they do today.
FIELD AND WOOD
i6i
Saw II pieces the length required for each of the
two sides, then bore bolt holes ij4 inches from each
end. Use ^-inch bolts 8^ inches long where four
pieces come together and 6j4-inch bolts where
FRAMEWORK OF BRIDGE
three pieces meet. The A-shaped supports and the
pieces for the approaches are bolted on at once,
and then the side braces are put on. The sides of
the bridge are made entirely of triangles. The first
triangle is made of pieces, a, h and c. The second
triangle of the pieces, b, d and e. The piers may
be posts, stone or concrete.
DAM FOR FARM POND
A small pond held by a good-sized hydraulic
dam supplies water for house, barn and two acres
EASILY BUILT DAM
1 62 HANDY FARM DEVICES
of garden and fruit, also floods a cranberry meadow
when needed. A section of the dam is placed 6
feet apart and covered with plank fitted tight. The
apron is of i2'foot plank spiked to the sills so as to
break joints. The bottom is made tight with
brush and clay. Stofies ate piled in behind the
plank coverings, as shown in cut.
SOWING SEED EVENLY
These drawings show thfe construction of a wheel
seeding device that can be easily made at home.
The axle is tightly
fitted into the
wheels so that it
turns whfen the
wheels do. This
agitates the grain
or other seed and
THE SEED BOX helps to keep the
seed running out of the holes at the lower back
side of the box. The quantity of flow , may be
regulated at pleasure by making the holes large
or small and increasing or diminishing the number
of holes.
A SOWING MACHINE
FIELD AND WOOD
163
It may be found desirable to have a considerable
number of holes and then having plugs, for alter-
nate ones, perhaps, which may be removed to
make the seeding thicker. From 4 to 6 feet is sug-
gested for the length of the box. Any old wheels
will do if they are not too heavy to be easily drawn
by hand.
BERRY CRATE CARRIER
One of the most convenient appliances for use in
the strawberry field is illustrated in the picture
shown herewith. It showB a novel use for the
old-fashioned yoke used so commonly on the old-
time farms. The
picture is so
readily under-
stood that no
description need
be given. This
also suggests the
many purposes
for which a yoke
may be used on
a farm. Every
farmer ought to
have one, to
make more easy
the task of car-
rying things. In
some places yokes may be found for sale, but if
you cannot buy one, make one yourself. Take a piece
of strong, tough wood, shape it out to fit around
the neck and shoulders and taper off the ends to
what you consider the right size. Usually a groove
is cut around about ij^ inches from each end and
YOKE CRATE CARRIER
l64
HANDY FARM DEVICES
a rope is securely tied. At the other end of the rope
a hook is attached the rfght size to go around the
bail handle of any ordinary pail. The hook may
be iron or may be formed from a strong, branched
stick.
HANDY LOADING DEVICE
Here is a rig simple and strong that works well
for loading corn in the field. The picture shows
LOADING RIG IN USE
the construction of the rack and hoisting device
with pulley attachment. Such a rig will be found
useful for loading many things on a farm.
RACK FOR HAULING FODDER
A handy rack for hauling fodder from the field
is shown in the drawing. It may be used for any
kind of corn, of course, for sorghum, and may be
found useful in moving brush. Each end of the
FIELD AND WOOD
165
rack is hung from the axles by two straps of iron
that can be obtained from any blaclssmith at very
little expense.
FODDER RACK
PULLING FENCE POSTS
An easy and practical method of pulling fence
posts, by which all digging and hand labor is elim-
inated, is here shown. Take a plank 4 feet long,
POST PULLER IN POSITION
I foot wide and make a V-shaped notch in one end,
nailing on several crosspieces to prevent splitting.
This plank is used to change the horizontal draft
to the vertical.
I66
HANDY FARM DEVICES
Place one end of chain around the post close to
ground. Incline the plank against the post so the
lower end of the plank will be about i^ or 2 feef
from the base of the post. Place the chain in the
notch of the plank, start the team and the post in
a few seconds will be clear of the ground.
In moving fences the chain should be attached
to the rear axle of the wagon, so the posts may at
once be loaded and hauled to the new location oi
the fence.
ONE WAY TO PULL STUMPS
A Connecticut man has a very handy device foi
pulling peach stumps from old orchards, and can
TACKLE FOR STUMP-PULLING
pull 200 or more a day by this means. The limbs
are cut oflf and the stumps, E, left as long as pos-
sible. A short rope or chain with a single pulley
is attached to the top of the stump. The anchor
rope, B, which runs through the pulley, is fastened
to the bottom of a stout stump, A.
A pair of steady horses is attached to the rope
and always pull toward the anchor stump. With
FIELD AND WOOD I67
a steady pull there is no jumping or jerking, and
they will walk right oflF as if pulling a loaded
wagon. Use about 60 feet of i-inch rope, which
costs $2.40, and the pulley, $1.75, making a total
cost of $4.15.
SIMPLE LAND MEASURE
Having much land measuring to do that requires
^^reater accuracy than just " stepping it off," make
a simple affair like this.
The manner of construc-
tion is made plain. Use
hardwood pieces; ^ or
^ X I inch is heavy
enough. Have lower
points exactly 5 feet 6
inches apart. Make a
round head on the han-
die Grasp the top lightly the measure
in hand, holdmg at the
side, whirl handle to bring rear point to front, mov-
ing off in direction tq be measured. Continue to
revolve measure, changing points in advancing. It
takes three lengths to the rod.
STORING WATER
An easy way to make a reservoir at the spring
is to throw up a bank, perhaps laying a wall first,
founding it below the surface. Should the soil be
such that water percolates through it, face the soil
with loam on top and puddle.it well. If this leaks,
face it with clay and puddle the clay. These rules
apply to all dams made of stone and earth.
Pipes entering reservoirs should enter at the
bottom and the soil be well puddled around them
Ib8 HANDY FARM DEVICES
to prevent the water working through beside the
pipe. Each pipe must have a strainer over its sup-
ply end and have no air holes in its entire length.
A good strainer can be made from a piece of large
lead pipe punched full of holes. One end may be
flattened or turned over and the other drawn on
over the end of the water pipe. Let nobody sup-
pose that simple, inexpensive arrangements are
faulty because primitive. If constructed correctly
and in line with natural laws, they are not only all
right, but are preferable to fancy, complicated
devices that get out of order easily or in a year or
two and require a master mechanic to put them
into working condition again.
GETTING A SUPPLY OF FUEL
PLAN for getting up the year's
supply of fuel is suggested as fol-
lows : Fell the trees on the ground
with a small sapling under them,
so a log chain can be passed
beneath. Then a logging bob
(Figure i) is tipped up on its side
near the end of the log; a chain is hooked to the
bolster near the ground, passed under the log and
over the top runner of the bob and the team hitched
to the end of the chain. A quick pull of the team
and the bob comes down on both runners, with the
log on the top of the bolster.
The log is now drawn to some sheltered place
near the woodhouse and sawed into stove lengths
with a 6-inch crosscut saw on the skidway shown in
Figure 2. The limbs are trimmed in the woods,
drawn on a pair of bobs to the shop, where there
FIELD AND WOOD
169
is a three-horse power boiler and two-horse power
engine, and are sawed at the rate oi ij4 cords an
FIGURE I — LOGGING BOB
hour with a buzz saw. A handy device can be
made of two crotched limbs, as shown in Figure 3,
to saw large limbs on. A 2-inch auger hole is
FIGURE 2 SKIDWAY
bored where the limbs branch, and a hardwood
limb driven tightly into the hole.
The following described device (Figure 4) is
very handy to hold and lower the tree after sawing
170
HANDY FAKM DEVICES
the stuii!tp off. [a, pilanks with holes boTed hi thetn ;
fe> log ; c, chain ; S, crotche'd limb ; ee, lever ; /, iron
pins.] It is made of two hardwood planks about
8x5 inches and ij4 inches thick bolted together
at the top and bottom, with a 2-inch space between
FIGURE 3 — iSANDY SAWHORSE
i6)r the lever to work in. One-inch holes are bored
through the sides of both planks, in which iron pins
art plfeced for the lever to pry over. The lever is
made of white ash, and has two notches near the
large end, with a chain link attached midway be-
FIGURE 4 — LOG JACK
FIELD AND WOOD
171
tween notches. A stout chain is hooked in the
link, passed under the log, and attached to a
crotched limb leaning slightly against the opposite
side of the log. By working the small end of the
lever up and down and moving the pins up one
hole at a time, a good-sized tree can be raised from
the ground high enough to be sawed easily with-
out a backache.
SIMPLEST OF ALL CAMPING TENTS
The great trouble with camping-out tents is the
weight of the frame, but the weight of the latter in
IJIUirilUJinUUIUIf/JlllUIIMtMMMMtUMmM*
T.^ 1
the case of the tent figured herewith will hardly
prove a burden to anyone, as only two light sticks
are used, such as are shown in Figure i. These
172
HANDY FARM DEVICES
are pressed into the ground 8 or 10 feet apart, ac-
cording to the size of the tent, and brought to-
gether and fastened at the upper ends with such
a joint as is shown, or with a string pasaing through
a screw-eye in each pole, if a simpler method is
preferred.
The tent is made from four triangular pieces of
cloth, as suggested in Figure 2. One of these is
cut up. the center and hemmed, to afford an en-
trance to the tent. The triangular pieces are sewed
together at the edges and at two of the opposite
THE TENT SET UP
corners pieces of stout cord are sewed into the
corners of the cloth, the cloth being reinforced as
suggested in the cut.
Two stout pegs of wood and two lighter ones
are provided. To pitch the tent, put up the two
frame poles A-fashion and draw the tent cloth over
them, opposite seams and corners fitting over the
poles. Draw out the other two corners and tie
by the ropes to the stout pegs which have been
driven into the ground. The two lighter pegs are
FIELD AND WOOD 173
used to fasten back the flaps of the front. It may
be found well to hem a light cord into the bottom
of the side having the opening, leaving the flaps
free from the cord. The position of the cord is
shown by the dotted line. It will not be in the way
when lying across the opening of the tent on the
ground and will strengthen the whole when the
outer corners are drawn tightly up to the stout
pegs.
This makes a practically square tent and the
size can be as large or small as may be desired.
To cut the side pieces, decide on the width of the
sides and the height you wish the tent to be. Then
draw a triangle (Figure 2), having the base as
long as desired for the side of the tent, and a per-
pendicular 2 feet longer than the height desired for
the tent, since the four sides of the tent are to be
inclined, and must, therefore, be enough longer to
make up for this.
This will prove a very satisfactory tent for boys
who are camping out, and it has the merit of being
easily made and very easy to carry about.
GATO^r AND
KEEPING A GATE FROM SAGGING
HE average farm gate is heavy, and
after a little time it sags. When
they get this way it takes a strong
man to open and shut one. Here
is a remedy. Get a wheel, either
big or little, from an old piece of
machinery, and bolt it to the front
end of the gate in such a way that the gate will
be held level. Now the smallest child can open
OLD PLOW WHEEL DOES THE TRICK
the gate for you. Try it, for it is a saver-
your patience, your back and the gate.
174
-saves
gate;s and doors
AN EASILY OPENED GATE
^7S
Take an old buggy wheel and fasten it as shown
in. the drawing to the gates, that are opened often.
The piece of board indieated by c drops between
GOOD USE FOR A WHEEL
the spokes of the wheel and holds the gate either
open or closed. A child can easily operate the
heaviest gate with this attachment.
A GATE THAT NEVER SAGS
A farmer has used' this gate for many years and
never spent five minutes repairing it. Countersink
two pieces and pin them together.
Then set up two 2x4 pieces 2
feet higher than the gate so it can
be raised in winter. Mortise
and set in between the cross-
pieces, which are 12 inches apart, the board, a, and
fasten a cap to the top of the frame. The gate is
16 feet long, 12 feet being for the gateway and 4
feet for the weights to balance it. The frame is of
2 X 4s. Cover the 4-foot end with boaords and fill
with enough stones to balance it wheti hung.
&"
1'
CROSSPIECE
176
HANDY FARM DEVICES
BALANCED WIRE GATE
Cover the gate with wire fencing and hang by a
chain. Put a bolt through the lower part of the
frame into the crosspiece, o.
WIRE GATE THAT SPEAKS FOR ITSELF
A CHEAP GATE
A light, useful and durable gate can be made of
sassafras poles and barbed wire, as shown in the
GATES AND DOORS
177
cut. Set a strong post 4 feet in the ground in the
middle of the gateway and balance the gate on it.
POLE AND WIRE GATE
The lower rail is made of two forked sassafras poles
securely nailed together so as to work around the
post.
A SIMPLE FARM GATE
Many like such a gate as that shown in the cut.
Material to be used depends largely on the purpose
for which the gate is made. For a paddock or pas-
ture gate, make it out of seasoned boards 1x6
inches, 12 or 14 feet long. The posts supporting
xio:
• >'*,*'''^*w*3i
GATE SIMPLE AND STRONG
178
HANDY FARM DEVICES
the gate are about 5 inches apart, the one on the
inside being about 8 inches ahead of the pther.
They are joined together by cleats or rollers which
support the gate and allow it to be pushed back and
sw^ing open. If rollers are not obtainable, cleats
made of any hard wood are good. They need not
be heavier than 1x4 inches. If the gate is to be
used for a hog pasture, the lower cleats on both
sets of posts should be placed just above the lower
board to prevent the hogs from lifting it up.
AN EASILY REGULATED GATE
The gate hanger illustrated in the drawing is
very handy for use where it is desired to let hogs
pass from one pasture to
another while cows are
confined to one. As
shown, the hanger is a
piece of strap iron bent
around the post and sup-
> ". \ ported by pegs. These
* — ^~- "— ^ pegs may be inserted in
holes at varying heights.
1 " '1 Raise the gate to let the
" °'' hogs through and lower
it to keep them in, of
course. This is also a
good device for raising
the gate above the snow
in winter. Many would
find this use of the ad-
justable hanger prefer-
able to the gates made to raise only one end for
snow. Of course it is desirable that there should
be the least play as possible while the hanger
ADJUSTABLE HANGER
GATES AND DOORS
179
slides up and down freely, and special care should
be taken to set the post firmly. Otherwise the gate
would sag.
GATE TO OVERCOME SNOWDRIFTS
In the picture is shown a gate which can be
readily adjusted to swing over snowdrifts. It is
easily made from ordinary lumber. A i x 6-inch
upright is used for the lower boards, i x 4 for the
upper ones. The uprights at the hinge post are
double 1x4, one piece outside and the other inside
GATE SHUT AND OPEN
the bars. The upright at the latch side may be the
same weight of stuff or slightly lighter, and fas-
tened in the same way. Instead of nailing the bars
to these uprights, bolts are used, one for each bar
at each end. The lowest board is notched as
shown, and the double brace used from the top
of the latch post to the bottom of the hinge post.
For the brace, 1x3 stuff is strong enough. They
are joined near the bottom with a bolt, which en-
gages with the notches when the gate is raised, as
shown at the right.
i8o
HANDY FARM DEVICES
A TIME SAVER
To open and close gates that stock may be kept
within bounds the year round is one thing which
uses up a great deal of time, and makes no rjeturn.
Every gate should be so made that it will fall into
TURNSTILE GATE
place of its own weight and stay closed and open
without hitch or bother. The cut illustrates a con-
venient thing that should be in larger use on farms.
It is always open and always closed against stock.
Put up and well painted, it will last for many years.
He who keeps company with great men is the
last at the table and the first at any toil or danger.
GATES AND DOORS
KEEP THE GATE OPEN
i8i
A simple and handy device which serves to hold
the gate open is shown in the cut. To make it,
procure a board, o, i x 4 x 12 inches
and saw out a portion in the cen-
ter, leaving a space on each- side
Yz inch wide, and bore holes for a
bolt. Next get an 8-inch stick, &,
and bore a hole through it 3 inches
from the top. Bevel the top so , ,
that the gate will pass over it, and H
it will then fall back and hold the
gate open. When one's hands and
arms are full of things, as they
often are on a farm, it is a great
convenience to have a gate or door
held open automatically. No sim-
pler or more effective device for the
purpose can be found. A similar device can
adapted to use as a latch to catch and keep a gate
or door closed.
GATE CATCH
be
GOOD BARS FOR THE FARM
It is an important matter to the farmer that his
farm should be well equipped with good, substan-
tial bars. Some farmers go to as much trouble in a
year's time in moving a poor gate or bars back and
forth as they drive in and out of fields, and in chas-
ing cattle about, as making dozens of such bars as
are represented here. Use round poles about 2j^
or 3 inches in diameter. Set two good-sized posts
one on either side of the barway, and to each one,
an equal distance apart, nail large horseshoes, al-
lS2
HANDY FARM DEVICES
lowing the round part to stand out far enough from
posts to admit the bar poles easily.
.•IV'**']
BAR WITH HORSESHOE CATCH
DURABLE FLOATING FENCE
This is a cheap and easy way to make a good,
strong cable on which to hang a water gate, when
it becomes necessary to have a fence cross a stream :
Set two good, large posts about 3 feet deep in the
ground and about 6 feet from the banks of the
stream. -Get a piece of wire (barbed wire will do,
but smooth wire makes a much better looking job),
long enough to go from one post around the other
and back again about six times, being careful to
fasten each end securely at the proper height from
the ground. Then get a strong piece of wood about
1x3 inches and about 4 feet long, stand as near the
ttiiddle of the space between the two posts as pos-
sible, and place the stick between the two sets of
wires. Turn around until all the wires are well
twisted together, being careful not to twist too much.
On withdrawing the stick, the wires will only
untwist two or three times. After the gate is hung,
the stick may be again inserted in the same place
GATES AND DOORS
183,
and several more twists given to take up the sag
caused by the weight of the gate. Then fasten one
end of the stick to the top of gate and it will be im-
SUSPENDED GATE
possible for the cable to untwist any more. This-
has been found to answer all the purposes of an
expensive cable and looks and lasts just as well.
FENCE ACROSS A STREAM
To construct a fence across a creek or small
stream, set a post on each bank and brace well.
If a tree happens to be near at the right place, so
much the better. Then fasten wire securely on
posts, leaving enough slack so a weight in the
middle will draw the wires toward the bed of the
stteam, thus making it impossible for stock of any
size to get through. A large stone makes a good
weight. It can be blocked up to desired height and
fastened in position with smooth wire.
TEMPORARY SHEEP FENCE
One of the best portable fences for use in soiling
sheep is made in panels with supports, as shown on
next page. Panels are 10 feet long, made of 4-incIi
board solidly nailed together. After this fence is
once' put up, sheep are not likely to overturn it. A
fence 3j^ feet high will turn most flocks.
l84
HANDY FARM DEVICES
U | l U
C- l, 'r1
MOVABLE FENCE AND PARTS
FASTENING HEAVY DOORS
There is little diiference in the effectiveness of
these two locks for heavy doors. The left-hand
1 1
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T
• • o
, .
ISO
o • O
o a •
^- f|T
1
e o o * ''1 1
3
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V.-.-.-4-«.i
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'„ II
TWO BIG DOOR LOCKS
GATES AND DOORS
185
device is extremely quick and handy; the other
very neat and substantial. The lock to the left
has both bars pivoted to a lever handle, which is
pivoted to the door midway between the ends of
the arms. Moving the lever handle up moves both
arms out of slots above and below the doors. The
fastening may be also worked from the inside by
cutting a slot through the door and setting a pin
in one of the arms, so that it can be moved in
the slot.
The right-hand fastening is worked by raising,
the lower arm so that the notch incloses the middle
staple at d. Then the upper arm can be pulled
down. Both arms stay firm and snug whether the
door is shut or open.
HOLD THE BARN DOORS SHUT
A latch that will hold double doors shut is showm
in the cut. This is put on the inside of the door
that is closed first. It is made of hardwood 4.
LATCH FOR DOUBLE DOORS
i86
HANDY FARM DEVICES
inches wide and i inch thick. To open the door,
turn the piece, o, to the right and pull down on the
crosspiece which is fastened to the door by a bolt
in the middle. This will raise the latch, c, and
lower the latch, d, as shown in the cut to the right.
Open your doors to a fine day, but make yourself
ready for a foul one.
Prosperity is the thing in the world we ought to
trust the least
«
CSp3>
FASTENING THE STABLE DOOR
A handy stall door fastener is shown in Figure I.
It consists of a piece of oak or other hard wood
4 inches wide by %
inch thick and 2
inches, longer than
the width of the
door. It is fastened
to the door by a ^-
inch bolt through
the middle and it
■works like a button.
Cleats, b, are sawed
out and fastened to
the door jamb on
each side to hold
the fastener in place.
Another handy
fastener that can be
worked from either
side of the door is
shown in Figure 2.
a
FIGURE I LONG FASTENER
GATES AND DOORS
187
There are three upright pieces, a, two of which
are on the door and one on the door jamb or casings.
Another piece, b,
a
B
SPRING
II
I
slides through
these and holds
the door shut. A
pin, c, goes
through the bolt
and through the
door to open or
shut it from the
opposite side.
The bolt is kept
shut by the
spring, which can
be made from a
piece of hickory,
or other tough
hardwood, whit-
tled down to the
proper thickness.
The spring fea-
ture is the chief
advantage, and a
very important one it is, of this excellent fastener.
It is also a good point that the fastener works
nicely from the opposite side of the door.
-O.
'W^
3
FIGURE 2 — SPRING FASTENER
Sell cheap and you will sell as much as four
others.
They must hwnger in frost that will' not work in
heat.
'Tis easier to build two chimneys than to main-
tain one.
i88
HANDY FARM DEVICES
HOMEMADE DOOR LATCH
This consists of three pieces of oak or other
good hardwood, as shown in the drawing. For
the handle use a piece
8x2x1 inches. Shape
a flattish knob on one
end 3 inches long. Work
down the rest so as to
pass through a i-inch
auger hole. Shape a
knob on the other end
by flattening the sides.
The latch is made of a
The catch is 8 x 2 x ^
(aTCH
DETAILS OF LATCH
piece 5 X I X % inches
inches. Bore a i-inch hole for the handle 3 inches,
from the edge of the
door. Push the handle
through the hole and
mark on it the thick-
ness of the door; then
bore in the handle a
^-inch hole for the
latch. Now assemble
the parts according to
the finished figure,
which shows the latcK
thrown back. A little
peg may be used to
keep the latch from
falling down when the
door is open. By tak-
ing pains to shape and
finish this latch nicely it will look well enough to
please the artistic eye of the most fastidious.
/
y
.(.
^m"
LATCH IN PLACE
^ Tl'
IMPORTANT POINTS IN HOUSE BUILDING
HE following points in building a
house are considered of the greatest
importance by a well-known archi-
tect: Carefully watch that the
foundation walls are substantially
laid, and accurately leveled on their
upper surfaces, so that the doors
shall not strike the floor or carpets in opening, nor
the tables, chairs, or other furniture be obliged to
stand on three legs.
The framework, when raised, should be plumb,
so that all on or in the building can be cut square,
and applied without tedious fitting. The siding
should be thoroughly seasoned in the open air be-
fore using, and carefully applied with close joints,
and well nailed. The edges of all water tables,
corner boards, and window frames should be
painted before setting.
The shingles should be carefully laid, breaking
their joints at one-third of their width and double
nailed. The flooring should be dry, close laid, and
nailed with two nails to each beam. The parti-
tions should be set with studding of selected width,
and their angles or corners should be anchored
firmly together to prevent the walls from crack-
ing in those parts when finished. The chimneys
should be carefully constructed, all points between
the brickwork should be well filled with mortar
to prevent sparks from passing through to the
framework.
190
HANDY FARM DEVICES
AH mortar for plastering should be properly
mixed, and allowed sufficient time (at least a week)
for the thorough slacking of the lime, and a com-
plete permeation of the caustic properties. Thin
coats of plastering are better than heavy ones.
A mortar that does not cradk in setting or drying
is sure to be good.
The interior wood finish should not be begun
Hiffltil the plastering is completely dried out, and all
loose mortar is remioved from the building. All
woodwork usually painted should be primed as soon
as in position.
A VERY CONVENIENT HOUSE
The accompanying picture and plans show the
outside and interior arrangements of a very con-
venient home built the past year by one of our
AN ATTRACTIVE HOME
agricultural editors. It is 34 feet wide by 30^^ feet
deep, with a 7-foot cellar underneath. The house
WHEN WE BUILD
191
contains 10 rooms, including two in the attic, be-
sides a storeroom in addition to those shown. All
the rooms are of good size and have two or more
large windows, which make them light and sunny
and supply plenty of good air.
¥-^^ II
PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR
Ecoliomy of construction, as well as o'f doin|; the
<^Ork, was kept in mind in the planninig. the
location of the stairs is somewhat unusual in a
house of this sort, but is such that only one light
192
HANDY FARM DEVICES
is necessary from first to second floor. There are
plenty of large closets on the second floor, which
are greatly appreciated.
The porch is not roofed except over the door, but
PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR
an awning, which is taken down in the fall, makes
it cool and shady in summer, and allows the sun-
shine to reach the living room in winter. The
first story is 9 feet from floor to ceiling, the second
8 feet and the third 7 feet 6 inches. The house
TO KEEP THE WHEELS GOING AROUND
If your wagon jack Isn't a good one, make a good one.
You can do it yourself. Have the right kind of things to
take care of the wagons easily, and use them often.
COSTS LITTLE AND SAVES MUCH
If you can't afford an expensive spraying outfit, rig one up
like this.
A HANDY DEVICE OF THE ORIENT
QUICK DELIVERY FROM THE FARMS
Hundreds of farmers are today making profitable use of
automobiles, although their first appearance upon country
roads caused only fear and anger.
WHEN WE BUILD
193
is piped with gas and wired for electricity, pro-
vided with the best quality of sanitary plumbing
DINING ROOMi
la'xiz'
SITTING ROOM
is'xia'
COAT „ALL
ICLOS.
VERANDA
6^6'wiDE
FIRST FLOOR COTTAGE PLAN
194
HANDY FARM DEVICES
and heated with hot air furnace. A similar house
can be built for about $4,000, more or less, accord-
ing to finish and locality. Occupancy proves it to
be a model of convenience.
If a bigger kitchen is desired, it can be obtained
by going back farther. Many would prefer a
ROOF
BED R(
DOM
I
J BED ROOM
U-6 X9
iixie
.'X,
CLOS. I HALL
y
\
ICLOS.
BED ROOM
I5'XI2
CLOSET
ROOF
SECOND FLOOR COTTAGE PLAN
WHEN WE BUILD
19S
wider bathroom. A foot taken from the back cham-
ber on the right would greatly improve the bath-
room and still leave a large chamber. If desired, a
large roofed piazza can be added.
BUILDING A BLOCK HOUSE
A Kansas farmer needed a house on his farm, but
had very little money. He found that only a little
was needed for a cement block house. He ordered
a cement block machine and bought 12 boards 10
inches wide and 12 feet long, which were cut in
seven pieces of equal length. Two cleats were
$400 CEMENT BLOCK HOUSE
nailed on each, about 3 inches from the ends. These
were for pallets and cost about 7^2 cents each. The
cement blocks were 8 x 9 x 18. As the block ma-
chine had no attachments, some contrivances were
made for making half stone, three-quarter and
others.
For caps and sills for doors and windows 9-inch
boards were taken, using three for each mold, and
196
HANDY FARM DEVICES
two holes 2 inches from the edges and 3 or 4 inches
from the ends of two of them were bored. Then
the farmer made cement blocks for the ends 9x8
inches, laid the other board on the ground, placed
one of the others on each side of it edgewise, put in
the end blocks, and through the holes put long
bolts and bolted it tight together. Then it was
ready to fill with concrete. These boards were as
long as were needed to make the caps or sills. A
sprinkler, sand shovel, plasterer's trowel, and a
wire sieve of j4-inch mesh were obtained.
ix,a'
HACL
lo'xii '
FIRST AND SECOND FLOOR PLANS
The sand cost nothing except hauling. The
machine was set up near a spring. A box some-
thing like a wagon bed with both ends out was
made of boards, the block machine placed in one
end and the pile of sand at one side. Three shovels
of sand and one of cement were placed in a tub
and mixed thoroughly. Then a boy took the
sprinkler and sprinkled it while another mixed,
until it was dampened evenly all through. Then
they spread 35 shovels of sand in the mixing box
and shook one sack of cement over it, which made
a five-to-one mixture. This was thoroughly mixed
WHEN WE BUILD I97
by shoveling and sprinkling until it was good and
damp, but not wet. This quantity made ten blocks.
A pallet was placed on the open machine, the
machine closed, and some of the richer mixture of
concrete placed on the face about i inch thick.
iThe mold was then filled with the five-to-one mix-
ture, while one of the boys tamped it, put in the
core, and smoothed off the top with a trowel. The
core was then carefully lifted out, the machine
opened, and the pallet with the stone on it placed
on a level piece of ground.
In three or four hours the blocks were ready to
sprinkle. When 30 hours old they were placed on
end and the pallets used for more stone. After
standing for two days, during which time they
were sprinkled frequently to keep them damp, they
were dumped in the creek, where they were left
until ready for use. The foundations were made
by first putting into a trench about 6 inches of
broken rock, then 4 inches of concrete.
The house is 26 feet square, the walls 12 feet
high, with gables north and south. The picture of
the house and arrangement of the two floors are
shown in the illustrations. We used 12,400 pounds
of cement, which cost 6oc per 100, or $74.40. Doors
and windows were brought at a cost of $33.75. Chim-
ney, plastering and lumber for floors, roof, parti-
tions and finishing, all of the best, cost $240. The
hardware was $30, making the total cost of house
$378.15, not counting cement machine or labor, all
of which was done by the family.
Art imitates nature, and necessity is the mother
of invention. — Richard Franck.
Consider the end. — Chilo.
igS HANDY FARM DEVICES
A PRACTICAL ROUND BARN
There is no economy in building a round barn,
that is, strictly round. The barn here illustrated has
26 sides nearly 12 feet long, making a barn 94 feet
in diameter. The sills, plates and roof in a strictly
round barn are very expensive, and the work will
not last as well as when built as shown. The floor
space of the first floor is nearly the same as if
round, and the hay loft is very little smaller. If
the building is round, the walls should be lathed
CROSS-SECTION OF BARN
with metal lath, over rough boxing, and plastered
with two coats of portland cement. In fact, this
finish is to be preferred in building any shaped
barn, as it requires no paint and practically no
repairs.
The floor plan of the barn shown is self-explan-
atory. It has stalls for 40 milch cows, three bull
peiis, two hospital stalls, pen for baby beef that will
accommodate about 2j^ cars of calves, stalls for
seven horses, including the two box stalls, and the
feeding room and silo. The silo is 16 x 34 feet,
will hold about 140 tons of silage, and requires
about ten acres of average corn to fill.
WHEN WE BUILD
199
The hay loft has 166,500 cubic feet of space, and
deducting the silo and bins for ground feed will
hold 300 tons of loose hay. The ground feed is
stored in hopper-shaped bins above the feed room,
and drawn down through small spouts as wanted.
The hay is handled with hay forks, and to locate
FIRST FLOOR PLAN
the trolleys as near the roof as possible, trap doors
are left in the loft, floor, and the hay hoisted from
the driveways. A circle trolley may be installed,
or two straight ones. Several large hay doors are
also built in the outside walls above the loft floor.
The silo, the floors of the cow stalls, including
200 HANDY FARM DEVICES
the gutters and mangers, also the 8-foot driveway
around the silo, are of cement, and, while it is iii-
tended to install litter and feed carriers, it is also
intended to drive around the entire barn, or the feed
floor with a cart if desired. The interior arrange-
ment of first floor may, of course, be changed in
several ways, and the cows faced in the opposite
direction, etc., or stalls and other equipment ar-
ranged for different stock.
The barn, as shown, has about the same floor
space as a barn would have 36 feet wide and 180
feet long. The ventilation is always much better
in the round barn, the work of caring for and feed-
ing may be accomplished with less labor, there are
never any drafts on the stock, the building may be
built for less money, and is much stronger. As
shown, the barn has a stone foundation, the roof is
covered with asbestos roofing felt, and the walls
covered with 6-inch drop siding. Everything is of
the best, and all exposed woodwork painted two
coats. This building would cost about $4700 with-
out the cow stanchions. Where home labor is
used, and the lumber can be secured for less than
$30 per thousand, the barn may, of course, be
erected for less.
A WELL-ARRANGED BARN
This Kentucky barn has a frame of oak, 6x6
inches. Center posts 23 feet 9 inches; shed posts
16 feet tall; studding and braces 2 x 6-inch poplar;
joists 2 X 10-inch poplar, oak and pine. The sheet-
ing is of poplar, beech and ash. The bevel siding
is select poplar. Cornice and base, white pine.
All doors are two thicknesses, front is dressed
cypress and the back dressed white pine. The
WHEN WE BUILD
20 1
lower windows are 10 x 12-inch, 12 lights and upper
ones inside the building. The joists are set 20
inches from center to center. The loft is 8}^ feet
from lower floors.
The floor plan shows the arrangement as follows :
Number i, icehouse, 18 feet deep, walled up with
stone; 2, carriage house, 16 x 18 feet; 3, stairs,,
leading to lumber room over carriage room ; 4, corn
«
a 1 5 1 a
48
•♦
1 JIMJI
a
i^
H\Si6r7--+ /2 fT.
GROUND PLAN OF A KENTUCKY BARN
crib, 8 X 16 feet, over which are the grain bins for
wheat and oats. These bins have chutes running
down into the corn crib, from which grain is filled
into sacks. Numbers 5, 5, are box stalls, 8 x 12
feet ; 6, driveway, 12 x 38 feet ; 7, 7, 7, 7, box stalls, .
6^2 X 12 feet; 8, harness room, 6x8 feet; 9, feed
mixing room, 6x8 feet, with spouts running frpm,
cutting box and bran bins overhead; 10, alleyway,
running from driveway to feed alley; 11, 11, 11, hay;
202 HANDY FARM DEVICES
chutes, with openings near the bottom, 1x2 feet.
These openings are directly over the feed boxes and
any hay that falls while horses are feeding goes
into the boxes and none is wasted. Number 12,
feed boxes, 1x2x2 feet ; 13, feeding alley, 4 x 38
feet.
Overhead at X is an opening from the hay loft
where alfalfa, clover, cowpeas and hay are kept for
the cows; 14, cow shed, 8 x 38 feet. Cows are
fastened with stanchions and fed out of boxes on
alley floor. The cow shed has concrete floor, with
a fall of 2 inches from stanchion to Number 15,
the drain basin, which is i foot 2 inches wide and i
foot deep at A, where it runs into a basin made of
concrete, 6x6 feet and 2 feet deep; 16, driveway
into carriage room; 17, openings in which siding
doors hang when open; 18, windows.
The roof is of tin, standing seams, with Yankee
gutters made on the lower edge of the roof. An
opening 10 x 10 feet in the center of the driveway
loft is allowed for hay and other feed taken up by
an unloader that runs on a track in comb of roof.
The barn will cost about $1500 — more or less, ac-
cording to cost of building material where it is
erected.
A HANDY SMALL BARN
This barn is arranged to meet the needs of a
small farm. It can be built in most localities at a
cost not to exceed $500, and if a farmer has his
own timber, at even less cost. The outside dimen-
sions are 36 x 48 feet, and it is 16 feet to the eaves,
with a curb roof. The stables should be about 8
feet high, which allows plenty of loft room above
for hay.
WHEN WE BUILD
203
In the floor plan the cow stalls, A, can be made
of any width desired, 3^/2 feet being best for gen-
eral purposes. At B are two large box stalls for
cows with young calves. The mangers, C, are 18
inches wide, with a rack for hay or fodder above.
At D is the feed room and alley, which is 8 feet
wide. At E are the mangers for the horses, with
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B
B
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F
F
F
G
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GROUND PLAN
a feed box at the right side. At F are three horse
stalls 4 feet wide, in which horses can be tied. At
G is a large box stall for mares and colts.
At H is provided the granary, which can be sub-
divided into bins as necessary. The portion I is
the driveway, which affords ample storage space
for tools, wagons, etc., and is used as a driveway
when hay is being elevated into the loft above.
There is a large corn crib, J, at the end, which
can be filled from the outside and emptied from
the inside. It is narrow and so arranged that the
204
HANDY FARM DEVICES
•corn will dry out quickly. Chutes from this bin
should be provided at L. A ladder to the hay loft
at K is a convenience which should not be omitted.
VIEW OF COMPLETED BARN
THE FARMER'S ICEHOUSE
In a properly constructed icehouse, and when
the ice is properly packed and cared for, no waste
should take place from the inside of the pile of ice.
The melting from the sides, bottom and top is
caused by insufficient insulation. The waste from
the bottom is generally the greatest. The amount
of ice melted in the bottom of the icehouse varies
from I to 6 feet during the year, depending upon
the construction of the floor. If the icehouse is
provided with an airtight iloor, with the ice laid on
at least i8 inches of dry sawdust, the bottom waste
rarely exceeds 12 inches during the year; on the
■other hand, if the ice is piled in the icehouse on the
bare ground without any insulation under it, or
any provision made for drainage, the meltage fre-
WHEN WE BUILD 205
quently is 6 feet. The side and top meltage is not
so great, but it frequently ranges from i to 3 feet,
depending upon the insulation.
Location and Building
The location should be where the ice can be re-
moved and delivered with the least amount of labor ;
however, it is very important that the icehouse
should be located in the coolest place, in as dry a
place as possible, and always above ground. The
lowest layer of ice should always be at least 6
inches above the outside level of ground.
The size of the building must be determined by
the amount of ice used during the year. For in-
stance, a dairy farm upon which 35 cows are kept,,
and from which the milk is sold, needs an icehouse
16 X 16 and 14 feet high. If the cream is to be sold
and skim milk fed to the calves, immediately from-
the separator, an icehouse 14 x 14 and 12 feet high
is of sufficient size. In both cases we make allow-
ance for the use of 25 pounds of ice per day during
the summer months for household purposes. For
a man who keeps about 20 cows and sells, the milk,,
an icehouse 14 x 14 and 12 feet high is of sufficient
size; however, in no case should an icehouse be
smaller than 12 x 12 and 10 feet high, because the
outside surface is too great, compared with the
volume, and, therefore, too much ice is wasted in
proportion to the amount used.
The building should be as near the shape of a
cube as possible, for the cube contains the greatest
amount of volume with the least amount of surface
exposed other than circular forms. It is not air-
ways practical to build as high as we build square.
206
HANDY FARM DEVICES
owing to the amount of labor and the inconven-
ience of storing the ice; therefore, the dimensions
given are really the most practical.
If the icehouse is not built upon a sandy
surface and where rapid drainage is natural, it is
^^' ■...-■....J.. . .. . L..-Ji. . ...J.^vv 'P
CROSS-SECTION OF ICEHOUSE
necessary to cut a space to a depth of 12 to 18
inches, where the icehouse is to be located, lay a
tile drain to drain this, and fill it with sand or
finely crushed stone. Put a 6-inch foundation of
concrete of the size you wish to build your ice-
house in this pit, and fill around the outside.
WHEN WE BUILD 207
Framing the Icehouse
The framework is made by laying 2 x 4-inch sill
on the concrete foundation ; fasten this to the foun-
dation by cementing a few bolts into the concrete
and allowing them to extend through the sill ; 2 x 4
studding are then placed upon the sill, 16 inches
apart from center to center. The rafters for the
roof are likewise made of 2 x 4's, placed the same
distance apart as the studding, but the purlin plate
upon the studding should be at least 6 inches wide.
The outside of studding may be boarded either
with common sheeting and paper, upon which
poplar siding is nailed, or with patent siding or
ship-lap siding, the latter being the cheapest and
requiring only a single thickness of board.
The roof should be made with not less than one-
half to one-third pitch, and preferably covered with
shingles, for shingles are better insulators than
either slate or metal. Paper may sometimes be
used to good advantage. A cupola or flue should
be built upon the roof to allow for the removal
of the warm air from the top of the ice. A ven-
tilator may be placed in the gable end,
A continuous door should be cut in one end to
allow the ice to be put in. This door may extend
from the gable down to within 5 feet of the bottom.
Before putting in the ice place from 18 inches to
2 feet of sawdust or dry peat upon the floor. The
ice should be harvested in regukr shape, oblong,
rather than square, and not less than 18 inches in
width and 30 inches in length.
Ice and Milk Houses Combined
The side elevation of an icehouse with milkhouse
attached is presented in the drawing. It shows the
208
HANDY FARM DEVICES
advantage of utilizing the water from the icehouse
for cooling the milk. No ice needs to be removed
from the icehouse. It operates automatically. If
the weather is warm the ice melts more rapidly and
keeps water in the tank at the required temperature.
A GOOD COLD COMBINATION
SMALL GREENHOUSES
The farmer who would make his crops of vege-
tables rnost profitable, or the small gardener who
would have an early supply of early vegetables for
home use or market must employ some kind of
glass structures to hasten these crops. The hot-
bed or cold frame have been much in use in the
past, but the cost of sash, shutters and mats is
nearly as much as the materials needed for a per-
manent structure, while the labor of caring for
cold frames or hotbeds is often much more than
that of the small greenhouse. In the latter one
may work with comfort no matter what the
weather may be outside. It requires much more
skill to run hotbeds successfully.
WHEN WE BUILD
209
Small greenhouses may be built against the south
side of the house or stable. Figures i and 2, or they
may be built entirely away from other buildings,,
but the shelter of larger buildings on the north or
west will be found of great advantage. If one has
a basement to the house or stable, a lean-to house
may be built, and heat from the open cellar in a
large measure will heat the greenhouse in the mild
weather of fall and spring.
Material for Construction
A cheap and efficient house may be made by
setting chestnut or cedar posts in the ground, cov-
ering the sides with lining boards, then two thick-
nesses of tarred building paper and sheathing
FIS^
FIG. I. Tia.z.
DETAILS FOR SMALL GREENHOUSES
outside. Figure 3. Cement, stone or brick will be
cheaper in the end. The durability of glass struc-
tures will depend much upon the form of the ma-
terials. Clear cypress is now more used than any
other material. Sills should be of the form shown
in Figure 4. Plates may be made of plank as in
2IO HANDY FARM DEVICES
Figure 3, or as in Figure 5. Sash bars should have
grooves along the sides to catch the drip from the
glass, as in Figure 6.
The glass for ordinary work may be No. 2 double
thick, large sizes, 16 x 20 inches or 20 x 24 inches,
being much used. Smaller sizes will be cheaper in
price, but more sash bars will be needed, and they
cut off much of the sunlight. The glass should be
put in with putty, made with about one-third white
lead in it, and firmly tacked with triangular zinc
tacks of large size, or the double-pointed tacks,
which are so bent as to prevent the glass from
slipping down.
Set Glass in Warm Weather
Glazing should be done during the summer or
early fall, as putty will soon become loose if frozen
before well hardened.
In building there should be no mortises, but all
Joints be made by toeing in with long, slender nails.
All woodwork should be thoroughly painted before
fitting, and all joints filled with white lead paint.
After all is done the frame should be painted before
the glass is put in.
The most important and expensive feature of the
small greenhouse is the heating. If one has a hot
water or steam heater in the house, to which the
glass house is attached, it will be a very simple
matter to carry pipes through, as at a, a, Figures i
and 2. Hot air also may be let into such houses,
or a small kerosene heater in very cold weather
may be used, if the house is built opening into the
cellar.
Ventilators must be located as shown in Figures
I and 2, at b, b. Very small structures may be
WHEN WE BUILD 211
run without much heat if opening into cellars or
other heated rooms by, having shutters or curtains
to draw down at night and in very cold, cloudy
weather.
Covering with Hotbed Sash
Houses of small size may be made by building
a frame upon which hotbed sash may be screwed.
If one has the sash this is a cheap way of build-
ing, and such a house has the advantage that tKe
sash may be entirely removed during the summer,
but it is very difficult to make a close house with
such sash.
The woodwork of greenhouses and hotbed sash
should have a coat of thin linseed oil paint every
second year. Much of the success to be obtained
from any glass structure will depend upon the skill
of the operator, and the thermometer, both outside
and in, must be watched very closely. The tem-
perature should be maintained as nearly as possible
like that in the open air under which the plants
grown thrive the best.
WIRE FENCE CORN CRIB
In the drawing is shown a handy, inexpensive
corn crib, which possesses several advantages not
possessed by the ordinary slat corn crib. It is
made on 4 x 4-inch posts, with pans at their tops,
to prevent rats from climbing in. The sills are 4x4-
inch, the scantlings 2x4, and 2 feet apart. The
fencing is nailed to these on all sides, and the door
frame is similarly covered. The roof is made wide,
so as to shed all possible water. The height, length
212 HANDY FARM DEVICES
and width may suit the farmer's convenience. A
convenient width is about 5 feet at the floor, widen-
ing to 7 feet at the eaves. Owing to the very open
THE CORN CRIB
nature of this crib, corn dries more quickly than in
a slat crib, and as there is less chance for water to
lodge in the cracks, the crib will be more durable
than if built entirely of wood.
Want of cure does us more damage than want of
knowledge.
WHEN WE BUILD 2I3
HOW TO LAY A FLOOR
To lay a floor or board ceiling just right, and do
the work fast, use a good lever, as in the illustra-
tion, taking for
the supports two
I X 4-inch pieces
as long as the
width of the room.
The upright arm
is 4 feet long with
a hole 4 inches
r ,, , FLOORING LEVER
irom the lower
and through which it is pinned loosely between the
ends of the supports. With a little practice, a good
carpenter's job can be done on floor or ceiling.
AN INEXPENSIVE VERANDA
A vine-covered veranda is a great comfort, but
in many cases the expense seems greater than the
owner of the plain little farmhouse feels able to
stand. A farmer in Arkansas wanted one, and he
set to work in this fashion. First he went to the
woods and got a load of straight poles about i^
inches in diameter and from 8 to 12 feet long. He
next procured a number of nice, smooth boards for
the flooring of the veranda, making it about 6 feet
wide and 10 feet long and strengthening it with
the necessary timbers. He securely nailed the
poles about 8 inches apart around the flooring to
form an inclosure, leaving an opening in front about
5 feet wide.
The poles in front were 7 feet from the floor to
the roof and 12 feet at the house. About midway
of their height the poles were straightened by a row
214 HANDY FARM DEVICES
of poles nailed horizontally and another row was
placed at the top. To make all secure against rain,
the slanting roof poles were next carefully covered
with overlapping rows of bark. AH this required
but small outlay of cash and even less of work. It
was then ready for the vines.
Being in haste for immediate results, the builder
planted some roots of the hard native woodbine,
which will soon cover any space with its rapid
growth. It is an easy matter to sow seed of the
morning glory, hardy annual gourd, or any one of
several hardy climbers and the result will soon be a
mass of shade and lovely blossoms besides, all of
which makes the summer evenings pass far more
pleasantly.
CONCRETE ON THE FARM
The progressive farmer must not overlook the
economic value of portland cement concrete. To-
day is the age of concrete. It is crowding wood
and steel into the background, and bids fair to
become the most universal of building materials.
Concrete is extensively used by the largest land-
holders, and can be used by the men of more
moderate means to equal advantage. It is to be
recommended for general use by reason of its
durability, sanitary qualities and moderate cost.
Molded solid, it has no joints nor seams to afford
a lodging for dirt and foster the growth of noxious
fungi; it can be swept, washed, scrubbed and
scalded, without injury to its texture. Further, it
does not possess the disagreeable quality of absorb-
ing gases and odors. Add to these qualities, cool-
ness in summer, warmth in winter and we have one
WHEN WE BUILD 215
of the most logical building materials in present-
day use.
Concrete is not expensive when compared with
other materials of construction, such as stone, brick
and wood. To be sure, the initial cost of wood is
less than that of concrete, but when we consider
the life and quality of the finished product, con-
crete is easily cheaper than wood.
Portland cement of the most approved brands
costs about $i.6o per barrel, Ij4 barrels of cement
being required for each cubic yard of concrete.
Sand and gravel may be had from the farm or
bought nearby at lo cents a load. Add the cost
of the forms and the labor of mixing and laying the
concrete, which should be done at an expense not
exceeding 75 cents per yard, and we have a
total expense ranging from $2.75 to $3 per cubic
yard, but under very favorable circumstances the
cost may be reduced close to $2. Experience both
in practical work and in the laboratory has proved
beyond a doubt that the best brands of cement, as
in all other goods, are the cheapest in the end, and
should be insisted upon by all prospective purchas-
ers. Atlas, Alpha, Saylor's, Edison and Giant
cements are among the leading brands. The sand
should be clean, coarse and sharp and free from all
foreign matter that would in any way tend to
weaken the concrete. Broken stone with sand and
cement makes an ideal, mixture, but it is objected
to on account of the cost of the broken stone.
Gravel may be substituted for the stone, however,
with excellent results. The gravel should be washed
and cleaned, and, if very coarse, passed through a
screen. The gravel should range from J4 inch to
2.y2 inches in diameter, but should not exceed 2>$
•2l6 HANDY FARM DEVICES
feiches and to obtain the very best results the major
portion should be between the limits of i and i^
inches.
MIXING THE CEMENT
In mixing concrete for general use the following
proportions are perhaps the best : One barrel cement
to 3 barrels sand and 5 barrels gravel. In this mix-
ture the spaces between the stones are entirely
filled and when hardened the concrete virtually
becomes a solid monolith.
To secure the best results mix the concrete as
follows: Have the gravel washed and in readi-
ness, usually on a platform of planking or boards,
to permit easy shoveling and insure against waste.
Add enough water to the cement and sand, which
have been thoroughly mixed in a mortar bed, to
make a thin mortar, not too thin, however, to per-
mit easy shoveling. Spread the mortar on the
gravel and thoroughly mix by turning with shovels.
Then, without delay, shovel the batch of concrete
into the forms or spread it on the floors as the case
may be, being careful not to exceed layers of 8
inches at each filling. Each layer must be tamped
and rammed till water flushes to the top.
Proceed in this manner till the forms are filled.
In hot weather damp cloths or boards should be
placed over the top of the concrete to keep it from
checking after the final layer has been placed in
the forms. The forms must necessarily be water
tight and the concrete worked back from the boards
with a spade, so the softer material may flow to the
outside and insure a smooth surface. If this last
is not done holes will surely result and the work
will be disappointing. Let the concrete rest four
to six days before removing the planking, concrete
WHEN WE BUILD 217
being somewhat brittle until thoroughly hardened,
and while in the " green " state easily broken.
MAKING CONCRETE BLOCKS
Concrete building blocks are ideal as building
material on the farm. The cost to purchase these
blocks has been beyond the reach of the farmer
who desired to use them for all purposes; but by
the use of the simple machine or mold described
anyone can make the best quality of hollow con-
crete building blocks at an average cost of less than
6 cents each, the mere cost of sand and cement.
As the standard size block is 20 x 8 x 7J^ inches,
instructions are given for making the machine to
build that size, but it can be constructed to turn
out any size of block by changing the dimensions
accordingly.
Take two boards 20 inches long by 7J^ inches
wide and i inch thick. These are for the sides.
For the ends use lumber 10 inches long by 7>4
inches wide. Care must be used to have the boards
free from large knots and with an even grain, so as
to avoid warping.
The above four boards were joined at three
corners with six hinges; two hinges at top and
bottom of each corner. In putting together have
the two end boards set up against the sides as
shown in Figure i. At the fourth corner place a
strong hook and eyelet to hold the machine together
when making block, and by unhooking this allows
the machine to be folded back away from the fin-
ished work, etc.
This makes a mold or form that is, inside meas-
urements, 20 inches long, 8 inches wide and 7J4
inches high, with top and bottom open.
2l8
HANDY FARM DEVICES
For the core, take two boards of i-inch lumber,
cutting them 13 inches at the top and slanting to
iiyi inches at the bottom with a
width of 7^ inches. These make
the sides of core. For the ends,
use 2-inch strips cut yyi inches
long. These are fastened together,
FIGURE I — CORE as shown in Figure i. This makes
a slanting box which is set inside of
the machine, as illustrated in Figure 2, and forms
the hollow in the block. To the top of the core a
round stick is fitted into place the length of the
core, so it will set down level with the top for a
handle to lift the core from the block when oper-
ating the same.
To Operate the Machine
First set it on a board somewhat larger than the
machine, as shown in Figure 2. This makes the
bottom of machine and holds the block until dry.
Enough of these boards must be provided for the
FIGURE 2 — CEMENT BLOCK MACHINE OPEN
WHEN WE BUILD 2ig
blocks made each day. Close the machine and
fasten catch, then set the core in the center and fill
the space around the same with the concrete mix-
ture, tamping it in thoroughly. When full level
off the top with a flat stick and carefully lift out the
core, setting it on another board ready for the next
block, unhook the catch and fold the machine back
away from the finished block and you have the com-
pleted block ready to dry and cure. This method
requires no handling and so has no danger of
breaking while the block is yet " green," as it re-
mains on the board or " pallet " until dry enough
to be piled up, which they will be in three or four
days.
When the blocks are to be laid in a side wall,
between corners, take two ij4-inch strips 7J/2
inches long and attach with screws to the center
of each end of machine on the inside. This molds
a groove in the block, which is filled with mortar
when laying the block in the wall and so securely
ties it. By fastening with screws these strips can
be easily removed when molding corner blocks.
Blocks of Different Shapes
A neat panel block can be molded by taking the
common half-round strips, cutting to the right
lengths and fastening to the outside of the face of
machine, as shown in Figure i. For corner blocks
they can be attached to either end of machine. By
using small screws these can be removed when not
desired and also enable you to panel either right
or left end of block as needs require.
For making half-size blocks, have a piece of
board that is exactly 8 inches wide and 7J^ inches
high, or so it will just fit into machine when core
'220 HANDY FARM DEVICES
is removed. Set this in place in the middle half-
way , between the ends and fill with material. This
will make two half-size blocks for use in breaking
joints when laying wall. If desired to have these
hollow, two small cores of proper size can be made
to set in place when molding blocks of this size.
Rock face effects can be produced very easily by
taking a 2-inch plank the size of the face of ma-
chine or the end as desired. On this draw a border
1)4 inches all around, then take several irons, heat
them red-hot and burn out the center in irregular
shape, at least ij4 inches deep. By making ridges
and hollows in this burning process of different
depths and as broken as possible, you will secure
a face plate that will mold a very excellent imita-
tion of a rock face. This, of course, can be made
to suit any fancy.
One may follow the practice of making several
faces and ends from plain and panels down to dif-
ferent rock effects, having these extra face plates
the same size as given for the machine above.
Then by using hinges as used on doors or any pin
hinge, you can easily change the style of block by
putting one face plate or end on machine in a
moment's time. One machine, can thus be used for
any style of block and a great amount of time be
saved in changing from one style to another.
This machine, in addition to being simple in con-
struction and operation, is very rapid. With but
little practice one man can make from 75 to 100
blocks daily and have each one perfect, as he does
not break any by handling them after they are
molded
According to her cloth she cut her coat. — Dryden.
WHEN WE BUILD
221
ANOTHER STYLE OF MOLD
All the lumber necessary to make this mold
should be selected white pine or hardwood, free
from knots and sap. The platform on which this
mold rests should be 14 x 24 inches and be well
battened together. The sides are made as shown
^
S-r
/6'
s2?eJYl>m-^'"*^'^-
THE FINISHED MOLD
by the drawings, with a cleat on each end, which
overlaps the end pieces and holds them in place.
Both ends and sides are fastened to the platform
as shown, with hinges, which permit them to be
turned down to take out the completed block.
On each end is placed a flat iron bar with a
notch in to fasten the whole mold together. "These
222
HANDY FARM DEVICES
bars are the same as hooks, only tne ends are pro-
longed to act as handles for convenience.
Regulating the Height of the Blocks
The bottom board is intended to be fitted in the
bottom of the mold loosely and should be blocked
up from the bottom to give the required height of
J
e
JJJ
7>luf OK Ct
ore
ia=
PARTS OF MOLD
the finished block. The end pieces of mold have a
thin piece of board running up and down to form
a key between blocks and should run down to top
of bottom board.
The plugs are made as shown, with a taper both
sides, so that when they are removed they clear all
the way out. The pins in the bottoms of the plugs
WHEN WE BUILD 223
are to fit in the holes in the bottom board, which
will steady them and hold them in place.
When the plugs are removed the board with the
two square holes is placed over the top of mold and
the handle of tamper is run through the rings in
top of plugs and they are lifted up. This board is
used as a guard and prevents the block from being
broken when plugs are removed, and should not be
used until the block is finished and ready to take
out of mold. The tamper is made of a large iron
nut and a piece of iron rod about i8 inches long.
Filling the Molds
To make these blocks use one part of portland
cement and three parts of good sharp sand, mix
well and put enough water on to simply dampen
the whole. Now close up the mold, put plugs in
place, fill the mold one-fourth full and tamp down
hard. Repeat this until the mold is filled. Scrape
ofif surplus material, remove the plugs, then turn
down sides and lift out finished block which is to
remain on the bottom board until hard enough to
lift off.
It will be necessary to have a number of these
bottom boards. After a number of blocks are
made they should be sprinkled from day to day for
from 15 to 20 days to properly cure them before
using. A barrel of cement will make about 50
blocks and one man can make a block in 12-
minutes.
MIXING CEMENT FOR BRICK
Many have found mixing the sand and cement
the hardest part of cement brick making. An old
224
HANDY FARM DEVICES
Vinegar barrel may be put to use by placing a grind-
stone crank on one end and a pinion on the other.
Two strong posts are set in the ground and the
barrel hung over two pieces of round iron driven
into the posts. ' A square hole is cut on side of
barrel and covered with a piece of sheet iron hinged
and a bottom to fasten.
The sand and cement are dampened, shoveled
into the barrel and a boy may turn the crank. The
mixing is done as fast as two men can mold, with
a boy to sprinkle the brick to prevent drying too
iast.
REINFORCEMENT FOR CONCRETE
For heavy construction work involving beams
and columns, reinforcement with steel rods is
needed. Reinforced concrete is rapidly coming to
i>e the mos^ approved kind of construction of large
sccTioa or FLsnt sub
FOOTING 0ETAIi5
DETAILS OF REINFORCEMENT
WHEN WE BUILD 225
buildings. Our own great building is one of the
most noteworthy examples, being of reinforced con-
crete throughout. For any building where rein-
forcement seems desirable the following details will
be found useful:
Plan of the footing or foundation of each column
is shown in /; g, side view of footing and part of
column above. The steel rods that run up through
column are shown by dots in h, and the wire spiral
by diagonal lines in g. h is cross-section of column
filled with cement, the shaded part being the con-
crete, a, section of floor slab, 4)4 inches thick; it
is also shown on top of the floor girder and floor
beam (crossbeams between girders), b, girder; c,
cross-section of girder, the dots showing twisted
steel bars that take up the tensile stress — compres-
sion stress is carried by the concrete. The steel
bars, d, stuck into the column at an angle, are to
prevent the girders from breaking off or " shear-
ing" at column.
MAKING A FROSTPROOF CELLAR
Some farmers build their own concrete cellar
walls and chimneys with inexperienced help. Lay
out your foundation the same way you would for
any building. Have outside line of excavation
plumb. Then use 2 x 4-inch studs the length re-
quired. Point one end, drive in ground, on line of
inside of cellar wall, brace top of stud by driving
stake in ground, and nail brace to stake and each
stud. You must make everything firm. Then take
square edge boards and place horizontally against
the studs. (See illustration.)
Do not try to go around the whole cellar wall,
take one side at a time to the height of earth sur-
226
HANDY FARM DEVICES
face, but turn your corner. Pay no attention to
outside, let the stone and cement push up against
the earth. It is the best plan to finish the whole
wall up to the earth surface line before making the
elevation above the ground line.
Above the earth surface line do just the same on
the outside as you have been doing on the inside,
but now you must use boards and studs, as up to
VIEM
CONCRETE CELLAR WALL
this point the earth took the place of them. Plumb
every stud you drive, and place them 24 inches
apart. Have cellar window frames ready and place
them as you come to them. Be sure and make
extension for hatchway when building your main
wall. For the corners use baled hay wire in wads,
bending it around the center of wall, and a rein-
forced concrete corner will be the result.
Get cobblestones or any stone from the size of
a goose egg to the size of your head, and put them
in bottom of walfto depth of i foot. Make a mix-
ing bed, say, about 12 x 36 x 72 inches. One man
WHEN WE BUILD 227
used an old wooden sink as near watertight as
possible. Use one water pail of cement to three
of fine gravel sand. Put one and one-half pails
water in the mixing bed, then add the cement. Be
sure and mix water and cement well before using
sand. Throw sand in one shovelful at a time.
Have one person mixing with a good-sized hoe,
while another throws in the sand. Mix well.
Have it about the same as thin mortar, so it will
leave the pail easily when pouring into the foun-
dation. Cover the stones and then put in another
lot and do the same to height of wall up to within
a couple of inches. Do not put stones to full height
of wall. To bring wall up to line, mix cement and
water together (or one part sand and one cement)
so it will run, and after wall is hard pour it on top
and it will find its own water level and your sills
will fit exactly. It is a good plan to have wall
thicker at bottom than at top — perhaps i8 inches
at bottom and 12 inches on top.
Now for hatchway steps. Put in the stones, as
they save cement. Before the cement gets hard,
drive in some large spikes, leaving them projecting
about 2 inches on line of hatchway sills. Your
hatchway doors will stay in place if sills are well-
fitted on to spikes. One of the most important
things is to be sure of the sand you use. If there
is more than 10 per cent loam in the sand, your
work will be a failure.
A SUMMER COOL ROOM
A simple method of constructing a cool, outdoor
cellar in localities where the common house cellars
are too warm for use during the summer time, is
shown in the accompanying sketch. It is a cellar
228
HANDY FARM DEVICES
made under the pump, so that the water pumped
by the windmill has a very cooling effect. In
places where it is difficult to obtain ice, it will prove
indispensable to the dairyman who keeps a few
cows. Another important item is the fact that a
man does not have to pull up all of the pipes every
CONCRETE OUTDOOR CELLAR
time that he finds it necessary to repair the pipes
and pump.
It is constructed of concrete. The top is rein-
forced with 5^-inch steel rods placed i foot apart
each way and the concrete work is about 6 inches
thick. The sides are made by using a form, and the
stairs are also made of concrete and are reinforced
by small steel rods. The cost, including the labor,
is about $50. In the west and southwest it will
also answer the purpose of a storm cave, which is
considered a fixture on all farms.
WHEN WE BUILD 229
A CONCRETE SMOKEHOUSE
The structure is about 8 x lo feet and 7 feet high.
It will keep the meat inside and thieves out.
For a building of this sort 8-inch walls will be thick
enough. Excavate to the proper depth below frost,
which will be two feet or less, and use a mixture of
one part portland cement, three parts sand and six
parts gravel or broken stone.
Make the forms of matched boards, although
square-edged boards could be used for this pur-
pose. The forms must be well braced and may be
raised as the work of laying the wall progresses.
Space for a doorway must be left and two eye-
bolts inserted in the concrete for the door to swing
on. The door jamb can be molded in cement if it
is desired. An eyebolt for the lock and latch should
also be placed in the wall.
The roof will no doubt be of boards or shingles.
The plates should be placed on the concrete and
held to it with bolts properly imbedded. An
arched concrete roof can be made if desired, in
which case it will be necessary to leave suitable
vents in each end, or build a small flue to allow the
smoke to escape. To make the house absolutely
proof against fire a steel or iron door should be
used.
LAYING A CONCRETE FLOOR
A concrete floor should be level with the top of
the sill, where there is much passing in and out
with stock or wagons. There should be about 4
inches of concrete. If the earth is leveled off and
tamped down hard, it would be unnecessary to put
any crushed stone under the concrete in a building
230 HANDY FARM DEVICES
where frost or water does not get underneath. It
is generally recommended to put several inches of
stones, gravel or cinders on top of the earth, but
many floors are laid without such a bottom. Par-
titions for horse stalls and cattle stanchions can be
held in place on a cement floor by putting down
iron belts or pieces of gas pipe, when the floor is
laid. Let them project 2 or 3 inches above the floor.
MAKING A CONCRETE WALK
The best way is to dig a trench 16 inches deep,
put in a foot of loose gravel or stone, leveling it off
with fine material. On top of this spread 3 inches
of concrete made of one part portland cement, two
parts sand and four parts crushed stone or gravel.
On this put a granolithic finish I inch thick mixed
in the proportions of 1-2-3. Trowel it down smooth
and hard. Joints J^ inch thick and filled with sand
should be left every 5 feet to prevent walk from
cracking
CEMENTING A CISTERN WALL
In making a surface waterproof, a mixture of
about one part portland cement to two of sand will
shed water from a roof or wall, but to make a sur-
face perfectly watertight, so that it will keep out
standing water, it is better to use neat cement only,
that is, cement with no other material but the
water with which it is mixed, and it will cost less
to put on a coat J4 inch thick of neat cement than
one I inch thick, one-half or two-thirds sand, as
the neat cement mixed with plenty of water is
waterproof.
WHEN WE BUILD 23 1
SPECIAL USES FOR CEMENT
A sack of Portland cement is a very useful thing
to have for making quick repairs about the farm.
A hole in a drain pipe can be stopped in a few min-
utes with a little cement, mixed with water, thick
as putty. A crack in a barrel can be stopped this
way. Hardwood floors may be patched and nail
holes filled so they will not leak.
A waterproof floor can be laid over an old board
floor in a short time. Sweep the old floor clean and
dry and nail down all loose boards. Cover with a
layer of heavy wire netting, tacking it down occa-
sionally. Over this lay a layer of concrete of one
part Portland cement, three parts clean sand, mixed
with water to a thin paste.
Smooth thoroughly, but if it is to be used by
stock, brush with an old broom to make it rough,
then let it dry thoroughly before using the floor.
Gutters may be put in where necessary. Holes in
an old shingled roof can be quickly stopped by forc-
ing a little cement putty under the shingle where
the leak appears.
Some special uses to which cement is being put
are the making of bee hives, brick for pavement and
ordinary foundations, cement shingles for roofing,
grain bins in the form of square boxlike and
round barrel-like receptacles. The use of this ex-
cellent material for farm structures is only just
opening up and it is destined to become the most
important material for general farm building.
A wooden reinforcement in the center of a con-
crete fence post is worse than useless. It does not
make a bond with the concrete, and thus weakens.
232 HANDY FARM DEVICES
instead of strengthens, the post. Of course, the
same is true of wooden reinforcement of any con-
crete work.
A TIME-HONORED HANDY DEVICE
(see frontispiece)
How dear to my heart are the scenes of my child-
hood,
When fond recollection presents them to view !
The orchard, the meadow, the deep-tangled wild-
wood.
And every loved spot that my infancy knew !
The wide-spreading pond and the mill that stood
by it;
The bridge, and the rock where the cataract fell ;
The cot of my father, the dairy-house nigh it ;
And e'en the rude bucket that hung in the well —
The old oaken bucket, the iron-bound bucket.
The old moss-covered bucket that hung in the
well.
How ardent I seized it with hands that were glow-
ing.
And quick to the white-pebbled bottom it fell !
Then soon, with the emblem of truth overflowing.
And dripping with coolness, it rose from the well.
— Samuel Woodworth.
WORTH KNOWING
FREEZING ICE IN BLOCKS
HERE a pond or stream is not
handy from which to get the year's
supply of ice, blocks can be frozen
in forms with comparatively little
labor. A supply of pure water is
essential. The forms are best made
of galvanized iron of any size de-
sired. A convenient size is i6 inches wide, 24
inches long and 12 inches deep inside measure. The
sides and ends should be made to taper J4 inch, so
HOMEMADE ICE MOLDS
that the frozen block will drop out easily.. The
top of the mold should be reinforced with wire for
the sake of strength and durability.
With a dozen or 20 forms one can put up quite a
supply of ice during the winter. The forms should
234
HANDY FARM DEVICES
be set level on joists or boards and placed a few
inches apart. Fill them nearly full with pure water
and let them freeze, which they will do in one or
two days and nights in suitable weather. When
frozen solid, turn the forms bottom side up and
pour a dipper of warm water on them, which will
release the cake of ice. The form can then be lifted
off, the ice put away in the icehouse and the form
filled with water again.
SAVING THE SEED CORN
Here is a handy device for preserving select
ears of seed corn. It consists of a wide board
fastened between
two supports
nailed to the edges.
The board stands
upright on one end
and may be as long
as desired. Drive
heavy spikes
through it from
the opposite side
and stick an ear of
corn upon each
spike. This allows
for the passage of
air, and the ears can
be examined with-
out removing them
from the rack. It
is much to be preferred to expensive wire racks, as
each nail may be numbered and a record kept of
the ears in this way. This rack was designed at
the Idaho experiment station.
SEED CORN RACK
WORTH KNOWING
RACK FOR SEED CORN
235
Here is a simple arrangement for keeping choice
ears of seed corn. Take a 2-inch square timber
for the upright, and make a solid
base by boring a hole through the
two base pieces, then drive the
timber into it. Drive 4-inch spikes
through the upright at intervals of
6 inches from four sides, and stick
the ears of corn on these spikes by
thrusting the same into the butt of
the cob. Numbers may be placed
above each spike, so that records
can be kept of all of the corn. The
corn should be placed on this rack
as soon as picked and husked, and
may be left there until planting
time if the rack is placed in a dry
room where rats and mice cannot
get at it. A large post strongly
mounted on a heavy pedestal may
be used in a manner similar to the
small upright described above. The
bigger the post and the larger the
number of spikes used, the greater the capacity of
the rack, of course. It is a good plan to make the
pedestal heavy and strong in order that it may not
be tipped over too easily.
SACK
The first years of man must make provision for
the last. — Samuel Johnson.
Put your trust in God, my boys, and keep your
powder dry. — Colonel Blacker.
236 HANDY FARM DEVICES
DRYING AND KEEPING SEED CORN
Never let it freeze before it is dry. Farmers
have had seed corn exposed to a temr)erature of
30 degrees below
zero without in-
juring its vitality,
and have had it
ruined at 10 de-
grees above zero.
We would not
recommend kiln-
drying for the
general farmer, as
this is only prac-
ticable where a
grower is in the
seed business. A
very convenient
way is to take
four pieces 4x4
6 feet long, set them up in a square, and nail laths
on them two and two opposite. Leave a 6-inch
space between the laths, so the corn will have
plenty of ventilation. Lay your corn on this to
dry, and if thoroughly dry it can lay there all
winter.
CORN DRYING RACK
Knowledge is worth nothing unless we do the
good we know.
It is better to give one shilling than to lend
twenty.
Keep your mouth shut and your eyes open.
WORTH KNOWING
237
FIG. 1
e e a e e
e e e
1"^ l^>
FIG.Z
-&
= •==-==„ -„«-.^
1^
— _ _ - 1 i/v
1/
FIG. 3
IZ
^
"
WEIGHT LIFTER AND DETAILS
The drawings show the different parts and one
of the many uses of this device.
238 HANDY FARM DEVICES
STRONG AND SIMPLE WAGON JACK
Here is a good, practical wagon jack suited to
almost all kinds of vehicles. The whole thing is
made of wood with
the exception of
the curved piece, b,
which is of iron
and hooks over an
iron bolt, e. It is
well to have a
strong J^-inch bolt
at /, so as to sup-
port the heavy
weight on the lever,
a. The bottom, d,
WAGON JACK and the piece, c,
are each 2 inches thick. In using the jack, the axle
is lifted by simply pressing down on the handle of
the lever. The teeth of b catch and hold on e auto-
matically. The height of lever is regulated by mov-
ing / up and down.
Write down the advice of him who loves you,
though you like it not at present.
A JACK FOR HEAVY WAGONS
Many lifting jacks which are designed for light
vehicles would not work well in the case of a heavy
log wagon. Here is one that will stand a lot of hard
usage and is simple and effective. Make the base
and upright of heavy 2-inch oak plank and insert a
%-inch bolt through the lever for a support. Have
a good, strong hemp rope attached to the base, pass-
WORTH KNOWING
239
ing over the >jandle end of the lever, so that as it is
drawn down and the wagon is lifted it can be hooked
in a notch to hold it in position.
HOMEMADE WAGON JACK
A CHEAP WHEELBARROW
The construction of this barrow is very simple.
Get a pair of old plow handles, two gate hinges
about I foot long, and a wheel, which may be found
at the junk dealer's. The legs of the wheelbarrow
MADE FROM OLD MATERIAL
240 HANDY FARM DEVICES
are those of an old chair, braced with a piece of
iron. These articles in themselves are worthless,
but in their combination we create something very
useful.
A WHEELBARROW CHEAP AND STRDNG
Here is a picture of a handy, strong wheelbarrow
that any farmer can make on a rainy day. Take a
dry-goods box 30 inches long, 24 or 26 inches wide
and 20 inches deep, and two sticks ^Yz to 6 feet
long and 3 x 3^ inches for handles. Nail or screw
BOX WHEELBARROW
on crossbrace in front and rear, and pieces with
brace as shown for legs. Cut four half circles from
inch hardwood board and a notch in center to fit
around axle. Nail these securely together for the
wheel.
For the axle, take a stick 3j^ inches square. Trim
and band each end or wrap with wire. Bore holes
and drive a 6d. wire nail in each end. Just 2 inches
apart in center, bore two i-inch holes on opposite
sides to hold the wheel in place. A band of hoop
iron around the wheel will make it last longer.
When it is put together, you have a very substan-
tial wheelbarrow that cost but little.
WORTH KNOWING 24I
HOW TO HANG A KETTLE
Using stones for a kettle support seems handiest
oftentimes, but let the heat crack one of the stones
and tip the kettle
over, as it frequently
will, does not tend
to improve a man's
language, let alone
the loss sustained.
It is much better to
make a support such
as is presented in
the cut. The three
uprights, of suitable
length to correspond
with the size of the
kettle, may consist
of any good wood.
Through the top of
these a hole is bored
for the bolt to hold
them together, which
must be long enough so they will have play to set
up easily. All that is necessary then is to suspend
two chains from the top and letting them extend
downward to the proper distance, attach the ears
of the kettle into the hooks on them. When not in
use, the device can be folded together and laid away.
A SNOW PLOW
No person not owning a snow plow can appreci-
ate how useful one is after every storm. A horse,
or if the snow be a heavy one, a span or a yoke of
cattle and this simple homemade arrangement, and
TRIPOD-HUNG KETTLE
2^2
HANDY FARM DEVICES
in less time than is required to tell it there is a patK,
and no back-breaking work either. It is only a big
V braced so the snow is pushed both ways by it.
It must be made of 2-inch planks at least I foot
wide and not less than 6 feet long. If shorter it
wobbles and does not stay on the ground well.
To make a good road for teams, chain it to one
side of the wood sled and drive up and down. It
spreads 2 feet, and will make your farm front look
as if somebody of pluck lives there. For foot-
paths draw it from a ring at the top of the front so
it will root.
SMOKEHOUSE SUBSTITUTE
WORTH KNOWING 243
TEMPORARY SMOKING DEVICE
If one butchers only once a year it is not neces-
sary to build an expensive smokehouse, for almost
as good results can be obtained from a device such
as that shown on page 242. It is made by taking
both ends out of a barrel and mounting it upon a
box or above a fireplace in the ground. The meat
to be smoked is hung from the sticks laid across the
top of the barrel, the fire built underneath and the
lid put on.
HOMEMADE HEATER AND COOKER
A cheap and economical heater may be of home
construction. Make a frame of 2 x 8-inch pine 7
feet long and 27 inches wide. Put a bottom on
TANK AND COOKER
this of No. 18 galvanized iron, letting it project
Yi inch on each side and 14 inches at one end for a
stovepipe fitting. Spike the frame together and
244 HANDY FARM DEVICES
cover the corners with heavy tins to prevent any
leaking. Nail the bottom on with two rows of nails.
Make a fireplace on the ground of stone and blue
clay or brick and cement of mortar if preferred, 2
feet wide by 3 feet long and 18 inches high. Pile
up dirt I foot high and 3 feet wide at the end of the
fireplace for a flue, put stone on the earth the
length of the galvanized iron, place the tank on
this foundation and bank it up with dirt. In cut-
ting a hole for the stovepipe, turn up strips of the
galvanized iron for a collar, then drive an iron ro3
into the ground, put on two lengths of stovepipe
and wire it fast to the rod.
A piece of sheet iron should be set up before the
fireplace to control the draft and keep the fire. Such
a heater, on one farm, is located near the windmill
and storage tank and can be filled from either. The
water can be heated quickly with cornstalks, straw,
cobs or brush. One may boil pumpkins and small
potatoes for fattening the pigs, and cook ground
feed by pouring scalding water on the meal in
barrels and covering with old blankets or carpets.
A light fire will take the chill from ice water for
the milch cows.
USE FOR A TOUGH LOG
Most farm wood piles have two or three old logs
lying about which nobody cares to tackle with an
ax or blasting powder, and are too short for the
sawmill. If straight, they will make good water
troughs. Square the ends, mark off about 10 inches
from each end, chop out the inside and trim the
edges. An inside coat of oil or pitch tar will in-
crease wearing qualities.
WORTH KNOWING 245
A HANDY WOOD SPLITTER
For splitting wood a farmer in eastern Massa-
chusetts uses a device as shown in the cut. Take
a 2 X 8-inch plank about 3 feet long and an upright
of the same material about 20 inches long. Set this
upright at an angle of 20 degrees and use a brace of
WOOD SPLITTING DEVICE
the same material. The sharp points shown in the
cut are 4od wire nails. Set the wood against these
spikes in splitting it.
HOW TO SPLIT WOOD
Wood splits much more readily in the direction
up from the root of the tree than when the blow of
the ax is downward. In other words, to split a
chunk place it upside down — contrary to the direc-
tion in which it grew. It is much easier to split
by slabs than to try to cleave through the center.
This means to split off pieces near the edge.
246
HANDY FARM DEVICES
A PULLING HAMMER
If you want to make your old claw hammer
do more work and do it better and easier,
have the handle projecting a
little beyond the head. You
will find it much more conven-
ient in drawing a nail, as it
makes a right angle for pulling
the nail without bending it to
one side. It takes the place of
a block and is always on hand
and ready in the right place for
immediate use. The handle is
simply whittled a little more
than usual and driven through
to the required distance. Don't drive it through too
far, but about as shown at a in the picture. If it
sticks out too much, it will be in the way when
driving nails. Whittle it off rounding, and give it
a finished appearance.
MOUNTING THE FARM ANVIL
To make a solid foundation for an anvil, build a
form of boards 14 x 18 inches square at the base,
18 inches high, tapering to 8 x 10 inches at the top.
Fill this mold with rich concrete and fix a bolt in
the center of the top of it to fasten the anvil. After-
ward, melted lead can be poured around the base
of the anvil, completing a very nice pedestal.
SORTING POTATOES QUICKLY
The sketch shows a homemade potato cleaner
and sorter. It consists of a number of hoops to
which are fastened J4-inch slats so as to make holes
WORTH KNOWING
247
xYz inches square. Two heavy pieces, a, are placed
inside the cylinder to hold the axle, 6, which ex-
tends entirely through the machine and is turned
by a crank, c. The frame made is 4 inches lower
at the opening end of the cylinder so that the pota-
toes will run through freely.
At the crank end is a hopper, /, into which the
potatoes are poured. The cylinder is 2^ feet long
POTATO SORTER AND CLEANER
and 3 feet in diameter. It will not bruise the pota-
toes, and the dirt and small ones run through on to
the floor or crate and the marketable ones run out
at the open end of the cylinder into another crate.
With one man to turn the crank and another to fill
the hopper, from 700 to 800 bushels can be sorted
in a day.
An indiscreet man is more hurtful than an ill-
natured one; for as the latter will only attack his
enemies, and those he wishes ill to, the other in-
jures indifferently both friends and foes. — Addison.
248 HANDY FARM DEVICES
HANDLING POTATOES EASILY
A bushel crate is often more convenient to use
in handling ear corn, potatoes or other vegetables
than a basket.
Crates that will
hold a bushel when
level full may be
lljli piled upon one an-
il other and thus
stored in less space
than baskets. At
the same time they
can be just as easily
and just as quickly
moved. They may be of light material. Pieces of
wood 2 inches square are used for the corner posts.
The slats may be made of j4-inch boards 3 inches
wide nailed securely to the corner posts. There
should be just room enough between the two upper
slats so that the fingers can be inserted when lift-
ing the box. The box will be more durable if the
upper slats are an inch thick. A handy size for
the completed box is 16 inches long, 14 inches wide
and 12 inches deep, outside measurements.
STORAGE BOX
CUTTING SEED POTATOES
In the prmcipal potato growing sections, medium
to large seed is used for planting and cut to two
eyes. In the famous Greeley district of Colorado,
cutting is done by hand. Potatoes are shoveled
into a bin or hopper, made of a dry-goods box
raised on legs. The back is made higher than the
front, so that potatoes will run down to the open-
WORTH KNOWING
249
ing and the bottom is slatted to let out the soil
shoveled up with the potatoes.
The cutting is simple. An old case knife, a, is
fastened to the end of a plank or board, b, in such
SEED POTATO CUTTER
a way that potatoes can be pushed against the knife
and fall from it into the basket beneath. The oper-
ator sits on the box to which the board is fastened
and can work very rapidly.
ANOTHER SEED POTATO CUTTER
A wide bench is boxed in on both ends and one
side. It is divided into two or three compartments,
these being open in the front which corresponds to
the side boxed in. To each of the compartments
is attached a sack on hooks, and along one side of
the bench in the middle of each compartment and
right over the opening of the sack is fixed, in an
upright position, a shoemaker's or common steel
table knife.
Potatoes to be cut for planting are shoveled into
the compartments of the box and in front of each
compartment a man takes his position, being seated
250 HANDY FARM DEVICES
on a box or stool for comfort's sake. He seizes the
tubers in rapid succession and by pulling them
against the blade quickly cuts each one into as
many pieces as desired; the pieces are then
dropped into the open sack. It is claimed that by
this indirect method of using the knife two fairly
good cutters can cut each day all the potatoes or-
dinarily required for the use of one planter.
HOW TO TEST SEED CORN
Of the different methods for testing seed corn,
the most convenient and satisfactory is a shallow
box provided with wet sawdust to furnish
the moisture and a marked cloth on which to lay
the kernels. The most convenient box is one 2 feet
square. This will accommodate lOO ears. It is
best to make it about 6 inches deep. Fill a sack
half full of clean sawdust and soak it for three or
four hours in water. Then spread this sawdust in
the bottom of the test box to the depth of i inch.
Take a smooth brick and pack the sawdust down
all over the box, making it as level as possible. Be
sure to get it packed firmly around the edges and
in the corners.
Then take a piece of white muslin 25 inches
square. Stretch this tight on a table so that it can
be marked. Rule off on this cloth with a heavy
blue pencil 100 squares 2 inches each way. Be-
ginning at the upper left-hand corner number these
squares in rotation from left to right. When the
ruling is done, pack the cloth in the germination
box so that it will rest firmly on the sawdust. This
can be done by pointing the tacks in the edge of the
box downward, and as the tack is driven in it will
draw the cloth tight over the sawdust.
WORTH KNOWING
251
Of course, there is no advantage testing any ears
that are of undesirable shape or conformation,
therefore the first step is to pick out those nearest
to the type wanted. Lay these out in rows upon
a plank or upon the floor, separating each ten ears
with a nail driven into the plank or floor. Starting
at the left-hand end of the row call the first ear No.
^^^S
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1
1
eeo
000
erf
- i
iii
ceo'
ooe
000'
C<bO
a 00
060
060'
eeo
oe^iii
■oed
000
0P«
6W
OCX!;
060
00(f
000
0(^
000
cod'
000
ootf
000
ood"
000
oo|
oaC
I
1
1
j
1
j
1
1
J
j
L^
i^-^--- - -=^^^^^^^^1
GERMINATION BOX
I, then the first ear beyond the first nail will be No.
II, the one beyond the second nail No. 21 and so on.
Remove six kernels from ear No. i and place
them in square No. i in the test box. Put six
kernels from ear No. 2 in square No. 2 and so on
through the row. In removing the kernels from the
ear take a pocketknife in the right hand and the
ear m the left. Place the blade at the side of the
252 HANDY FARM DEVICES
kernel you wish to remove and pry it gently. The
kernel will come out easily and should be caught
in the palm of the left hand. First remove a ker-
nel from near the butt of the ear; turn the ear a
quarter turn in the hand and remove a kernel from
the center; turn the ear another quarter turn and
remove a kernel from near the tip ; another quarter
turn and remove a second kernel from near the
butt; another quarter and remove the second ker-
nel from the center; another quarter turn and
remove a second kernel from the tip. This makes
six kernels from six different rows and representing
the butt, middle and tip.
In placing the kernels in the box it will be found
of advantage to point the tips all in the same direc-
tion, and also to lay the kernels with the germ
uppermost. If the kernels are laid in the squares
promiscuously, they may be thrown out of their
places when the sprouts begin to grow. When the
kernels are all in place, take a second piece of white
cloth fully 24 inches square, moisten it and lay it
carefully over the kernels. This will hold them in
place while the top layer of sawdust is being put
on. Take a third piece of cloth about 48 x 30
inches and lay it over the box so that the edges lap
about equally. Then in this cloth put another inch
of wet sawdust and pack it down firmly, especially
around the edges. When this is done turn the
edges of the cloth over the sawdust to keep it from
drying out too rapidly and place the test box where
it will not be subjected to cold below a living-room
temperature.
Reading the Results
After seven days carefully roll back the cloth
containing the top layer of sawdust and lift the
WORTH KNOWING 253
second cloth off the kernels. This must be done
with care, because sometimes the sprouts grow
through the cloth and the kernels will cling to it.
Observe the results in square No. i. If all six
of the kernels have vigorous sprouts, from ^ to 2
inches long, you can be sure that ear No. I is
thoroughly good. If in square No. 2 only two of
the kernels have sprouted, you may know that ear
No. 2 will make much better hog feed than seed
corn. As soon as you have determined that ear
No. 2 is really bad, pull it out from the row about
half its length, leaving the other ears in place.
After you have gone through the whole line, you
may then go back and pick out the bad ears and
discard them.
Of course, we would all prefer to use only those
ears that gave a perfect germination, and if one has
enough, that is the thing to do. But experience
has taught that it is quite safe to use an ear, four
of whose kernels grow strong sprouts. Or, if seed
corn is scarce, one should not hesitate to use one
that gave three strong sprouts and two weaker
ones.
This testing may be done at any time after the
ears are dry. It is generally more convenient to
do it in winter, when there is not much outside
work to be done. The box may be set behind the
stove or any other convenient place, where it is
sufficiently warm; in many cases, where there is
an attic above the kitchen that room is a sufficiently
warm place for testing.
Some put sand in an ordinary dinner plate, flood
with water, and then drain the excess water off,
place the seed on top of the sand, and cover with
another dinner plate. Others use a saucer made
254 HANDY FARM DEVICES
of porous clay. The seeds are placed in this, the
saucer set in a pan of water, and the pan covered.
These methods may be used for other grains as
well as corn. In case of sowing grasses, alfalfa or
wheat, it is often of great advantage to test the
seed.
Every man has two educations — that which is
given to him and the other, that which he gives to
himself. Of the two kinds, the latter is by far the
most valuable. Indeed, all that is most worthy
in a man he must work out and conquer for him-
self. It is that that constitutes our real and best
nourishment. What we are merely taught, seldom
nourishes the mind like that which we teach our
selves. — Richter.
KILLING INSECTS IN GRAIN
If one has not time to make a substantial box
for fumigation of seed grain for insect destruction,
barrels may be utilized for the purpose. Get two
tight, strong barrels, such as coal oil barrels, and
make water tight. Put in the seed to be fumi-
gated, cover with a blanket and close-fitting cover.
Before covering pour carbon bisulphide, which is
explosive, over the grain, at the rate of 3 to 4
ounces for 5 bushels of grain. If it is not de-
sirable to pour this poison on grain, set a
saucer on it, and pour the poison in the saucer.
Place a small block near the saucer to hold up the
blanket i or 2 inches higher, lay blanket over the
WORTH KNOWING
255
barrel, and place cover securely in place and weight
with stone." This will kill the weevil in peas and
beans.
BINDING PINS FOR HAY
Every person moving hay ought to have a set of
binding pins. They are made in a minute and
serve an excellent purpose for a lifetime. The
sketch shows a rope stretched over the top of a
load of hay or straw. The upright pin is worked
down into the load and the other twisted in the
rope and turned around the upright until the load
BINDING LOAD OF HAY
is tightly bound. Then a small rope that is kept
tied in end of the horizontal pin is tied to the bind-
ing rope and the pressure is held. Each pin is 3J^
feet long. One is sharpened and the other has a
^-inch hole bored through one end. Old fork
handles are just the thing to make them of. One
pin only may be made and a fork used to bind in
the manner shown after the load is on.
Nothing is impossible to industry. — Periander,
256 HANDY FARM DEVICES
COMBINED DRAG AND HARROW
This road drag is all right. The front piece con-
sists of a 4 X 4 oak strip, b, 10 feet long, through
which are driven ordinary harrow teeth about 3
inches apart. This is attached to the rear piece, a,
which is a 2 X 6 oak timber 10 feet long faced with
HARROWS AND LEVELS AT ONCE
3 inches of j4-inch metal on the bottom, e, which
projects I inch. These pieces are kept apart by
wooden blocks, d, upon the bolts, /, and by the top
strips, c, each 2x6. This makes a fine level road,
as it harrows it and scrapes it at the same time.
HOW TO HANDLE A ROPE
A rope is one of the most useful articles that are
constantly needed about the farm; but too many
farmers are not familiar with the many uses to
which the rope may be put. The various sailors'
knots may often be used to great advantage. To
sling a plank for painting or other purposes make
WORTH KNOWING
257
a bight of rope as shown in Figure i, bringing the
rope entirely around the plank, so as to prevent its
turning and throwing the workman down. One-
half to ^-inch rope is usually sufficient for all prac-
tical purposes. A hemp rope is more generally;
used and stands wear better than other kinds.
N9 I
^sz=y!r3s=;«^=2
N?3 ^
N95
N9 6
SOUE ROPE HITCHES
2S8 HANDY FARM DEVICES
A useful way to sling a can or pail from the end
of a rope is shown in Figure 2. Prepared in this
■way the vessel is secure so long as the rope is not
slipped off from the bottom. Secure the knot
firmly at the top to allow no slipping and so that
the pail may not become lopsided.
Scaffolding may often be erected by tying poles
together as shown in Figure 3. This sort of lash-
ing will not slip if made tight. In many cases a
chain may be used as shown in Figure 4, in which
case the weight should be on the side of the up-
right where the chain is lowest. All of these lasK-
ings must be drawn very tight so as not to allow
any play, which may result disastrously.
An excellent hitch knot is shown in Figure 5,
readily made, easily loosened and valuable for many
purposes on the farm. This knot is readily untied
by slackening up the drawing strand. It does not
become tight and hard as many ordinary knots
after heavy usage.
In many cases where heavy hooks are used they
are liable to come unfastened unless a cord is
affixed, as shown in Figure 6. A few turns of
heavy twine or light wire in the middle will fre-
quently prevent any loosening of the chain.
A ring hitch, shown in Figure 7, is a very effective
and safe method, which may be made on short
notice. The loose end of the rope is allowed to
hang free or may be tied with a slip knot to the
drawing strand.
TYING SOME USEFUL KNOTS
A sailor judges knots for their holding qualities
and also their ability to be quickly unfastened,
without regard to the strain they have been sub-
WORTH KNOWING
259
jected to. A knot's main office is to hold, without
working loose or slipping, yet they do occasionally
fail absolutely to accomplish this, when made by
inexperienced hands. The accompanying diagrams
show some of the simpler knots that may be of
everyday use. In these, the mode of formation
can be readily discerned, because the rope's posi-
tion is shown before tightening. The overhand
knot, Figure i, is probably the simplest of all. It
is used only for making a knot at the end of a rope
to keep it from fraying or to prevent another knot
from slipping. If a slight change in formation is.
A FEW GOOD KNOTS
made, as in Figure 5, it develops into a slip knot or,
as it is sometimes called, a single sling, and its
purposes are obvious. A double sling is repre-
sented in Figure 6, and though it is slightly more
complicated, it is considerably more useful for any
purpose where a rope is to be attached to a bar or
beam and stand a steady strain.
Probably for convenience and emergencies no
knots equal the bow-line, Figure 7, because it will
not slip or give, no matter how great the tension;
in fact, the rope itself is no stronger, and the in-
stant the strain ceases it can be untied as easily as
260 HANDY FARM DEVICES
a bow. When the end of a rope is to be secured,
the two half-hitches or clove hitch, Figures 2 and
3, are of great importance, for either of these bends
can be attached instantly to almost anything, and
their holding powers are exceeded by none. The
square knot. Figure 4, can be used for infinite pur-
poses, from reefing a sail to tying a bundle, the
advantage being, if made properly, of resisting any
separating strain on either cord, and yet can be
untied immediately by pulling one of the short
ends.
One of the best and safest slip knots is shown in
Figure 9, made with the overhand at the end,
which, until loosened by the hand, maintains its
grip. When a rope requires shortening temporarily
the sheep shank, Figure 8, affords a means of so
doing. This knot can be applied to any part of the
rope without reducing its strengfth of rectilineal
tension.
CARRYING A BARREL MADE EASY
In the cities the ash collectors use a simple device,
which farmers might make and often find handy, as
barrels often become dried, weak and will not stand
rough handling. The device is made of six pieces
of wood; four pieces are about 2 feet long and 4
inches in thickness and width. Handles may be
whittled on one end of each. About 10 inches from
the other end, boards about 2 feet long and 8 inches
wide are nailed as shown at c, c, in figure. Pieces
c, c, are then cut in circular form so as to fit the out-
side of a barrel.
An old wheel tire may be straightened and four
pieces cut to be fastened to the ends of each of the
four handle pieces, as at d. These are then riveted
WORTH KNOWING
261
together so as to make hinges as shown at d, d. The
tire need be only long enough to fasten securely to
the handle pieces. Of course, the blacksmith should
drill holes in them, that they may be securely
riveted.
To use this device, drop it over the barrel. One
man lifts on the two front handles and another
BARREL CARRIER
man on the rear handles. Boards c, c, close up in cir-
cular form, just beneath the lowest hoop round the
upper end of the barrel, and cling tightly. The
barrel is then lifted and readily carried without
jar to its contents or straining the barrel. Of
course, if all the barrels on the farm are of uniform
size, the device could be made without hinges, and
the barrels headed up could be rolled on pieces c, c.
The best part of one's life is the performance of
his daily duties. All higher motives, ideals, con-
ceptions, sentiments, in a man are of no account if
they do not come forward to strengthen him for
the better discharge of the duties which devolve
upon him in the ordinary affairs of life. — Henry
.Ward Beecher.
262
HANDY FARM DEVICES
HARNESS CLAMP
The accompanying drawing represents a very
handy harness mender which anyone who can use
a saw and ham-
mer can make in
a few minutes. It
is made of lumber
of the dimensions
indicated in the
drawing. The
clamp is tightened
by the worker
sitting upon the
seat, which should
extend at least 2
feet from the
clamps. The
drawing shows
the device with a
shorter seat than
that. It would
doubtless be bet-
ter to have the seat extended to twice the length
shown from the left of the clamps and to have the
base extended in a similar manner, so that the
device will not tip over too easily. The joint at fhe
upper right-hand corner may be hinged with
heavy wire run through holes and twisted together
underneath, or real strap hinges of iron may be
attached.
THE CLAMP
They who provide much wealth for their chil-
dren, but neglect to improve them in virtue, do like
those who feed their horses high, but never train
them to the manage. — Socrates.
WORTH KNOWING
263
SUBSTITUTE FOR PIPE WRENCH
The drawing shown here illustrates a useful de-
vice for twisting pipe off or on its connections.
Three or 4 feet of new rope is
frayed out at both ends, which are
put together and wound tightly
around the pipe to be turned, so
that the first coil twists over the
loose ends and continues around
the pipe, two or three times, end-
ing in a loop, through which a bar
of iron is slipped, to be used as a
lever. This simple plan will be
found very efifective in ordinary
requirements for the pipe wrench,
and is worth a trial. A more dur-
able wrench may be made by using
wire instead of rope. The loop
can be formed by closely twisting the ends of the
wire with pincers. The rope is rather easier to
handle because more flexible.
PIPE TWISTER
MARKET WAGON CONVENIENCES
Farmers who regularly haul produce to market
or deliver direct to customers will find the con-
O veniences described to be of much
^ t|7 value. They save much time and
P^taT_/ considerable trouble and cost but
'w «* little effort to make them. Instead
REIN CLIP of wrapping the reins about the
whip, or letting them lie over the dashboard, a hook,
such as shown in the first sketch, may easily be
made of stiff fencing wire and secured to the top
of the wagon or the dashboard.
264
HANDY FARM DEVICES
Two Other hooks may be arranged at the sides
of the wagon to hold an umbrella, which would be
kept there rain or shine, and never forgotten and
left at home. This will save a drenching some time
and perhaps some valuable produce.
Another convenience is a rear curtain of oilcloth
stretched over a light board frame and hinged at
REAR SHADE FOR WAGON
the top, as illustrated. Two old stays from a buggy
top will serve to support it, when it must be left
open, and it will protect the driver from sun and
rain while taking things from the wagon.
CARRYING BUTTER TO TOWN
A refrigerator that one farmer uses in which he
takes butter to town nine miles away in hot weather
WORTH KNOWING zS^
is made thus : Get two clean, tight boxes of some
odorless wood, one 12x15x13 inches deep, and
the other 9 x 12 x 10 inches deep. Slip one inside
the other with a notched block in each corner
to hold the inside box in place. Fasten the covers
together so as to leave an air space of about i inch
between them all around. The inner box will hold
20 pounds of butter nicely. It will carry butter
solid in wagon all day in 90-degree weather.
TO SHARPEN SCISSORS
Do you know that you can sharpen scissors, and
easily, by passing the blades over glass jars? Take
a bottle or jar, make believe you are trying to cut it
(have one blade in and the other outside of the top
of the bottle) and then allow the scissors to glide
ofif the hard surface naturally, just as if you were
trying to cut the glass. Use firm but not too hard
pressure, and repeat the operation several times.
HOW TO PAPER A ROOM
If a room has been papered several times, tear
off all the loose parts you can and with a sponge
and water loosen what remains on the walls, re-'
moving as much as possible, so as to have a smooth,
even surface. If the room has never been papered,
first go over it and fill all large cracks and holes
with a paste made of whiting and water, or plaster
of paris and water. When using the latter, mix
only a little at a time, have it rather thin, and use
quickly. Then, give the room a coat of sizing,
which is made of common glue, three or four hand-
fuls dissolved in a pail of boiling water. The siz-
ing is applied with a large brush and should be
allowed to dry overnight.
266
HANDY FARM DEVICES
Choose Judiciously
For very sunny rooms, select cool-looking papers,
such as blues, greens and browns in various shades^
HANGING WALLPAPER
while for dark rooms pinks, reds, terra cottas and
yellows are best. When selecting papers, pay carer-
WORTH KNOWING 267
ful attention to the color scheme of your room, and
don't have an inharmonious mixture, which will
offend good taste. Small, plain patterns are the
most economical, and the easiest to match. The
cheap, trashy papers, costing only a few cents a
roll, are not worth the trouble of putting up. Gold
paper is not to be recommended for wear.
No borders should be used for rooms having a
low ceiling. For such, a striped paper of pretty
design running right up to the ceiling is best. The
ceiling may be papered in a plain or very small-
patterned design, to harmonize with the side walls,
or treated with several coats of tinted kalsomirie or
paint. A picture molding of appropriate color is
used to finish the side walls, being placed scarcely
I inch from the ceiling. The ceiling whether
papered, painted or kalsomined, should be done
first. It is a very difficult matter to paper the ceil-
ing, and, unless you can have help, it would be
better not to attempt it. Plain tints in paint or
kalsomine are always pretty and in good taste. If,
however, you want to risk papering the ceiling
yourself, get some handy body to help you.
Paste and Tools
The paste is made by simply boiling flour and
water together, and adding a very little alum, salt
and glue — about a tablespoon of each to a pound
of flour. It should be of a consistency thick enough
to apply easily, and not so thin that it will run.
Provide yourself with a good-sized paste brush,
another one (a whitewash brush will do) to use
dry over the paper, sharp scissors and a knife,.
268 HANDY FARM DEVICES
plenty of clean rags, two barrels, two long, smooth,
clean boards, each about lo inches wide, and a step-
ladder.
Make a long table by placing the two barrels
about 8 or 9 feet apart and on top of these the
boards.
Trimming and Cutting
The first thing to do is to cut the necessary num-
ber of strips of paper long enough to allow for
waste in matching, and lay them all face downward
on the "operating" table, one on top of the other.
Next spread the paste evenly over the top or first
strip of paper, being very sure to have the edges
well pasted. Then turn top and bottom parts
down, bringing pasted sides together, so that they
meet, and none of the paste part is exposed, and
carefully trim off edge on one side, with large,
sharp scissors. Lift up the part thus trimmed and
folded, and mount the ladder, which should pre-
viously have been placed convenient to the place
where you intend to begin operations — the largest
wall space is best, next to a door or window.
Hanging the Paper
Now take hold of the top end which was doubled
over (it will open and hang by its own weight) and
adjust to its proper place on the wall. Then, with
a large clean rag in your hand, rub downward,
never up or sideways, and take great care to keep
the edge straight. If you find that you didn't start
straight from the top, loosen paper and do it over
again. A " straight eye " is needed to do the work
neatly. Don't rub too hard and always rub down-
WORTH KNOWING 269
ward, doing a little part at a time, and lifting paper
occasionally, so that no air bubbles are left under
it. When the upper part is done, dismount from
ladder, undo the folded part at the bottom of the
width, and proceed in the same manner to adjust
to the wall. When you are sure it is on straight
and smooth, trim with a sharp knife along the base-
board. Then give the strip another smoothing by
going all over it again with a dry, clean brush.
Proceed in this way until all the full length parts
are covered, and then match in the small spaces
over and below windows and doors. All the match-
ing must be done with great care.
Practical and Economical
Wainscoting in living or dining rooms are nice,
and very practical, especially where there are small
children. For this purpose burlap, or the less ex-
pensive dark, heavy papers that come in wood-grain
imitation are good. Matting is sometimes used
with very good effect, too. A narrow wooden
molding is used to finish the top of the wainscoting,
and in that case the work of papering the side walls
is so much easier, the lengths being short.
THE FARM BLACKSMITH SHOP
A blacksmith shop is of immense practical value
on a farm. To those who have one it is almost as
essential as live stock, farm tools and crops. One
does not need to be a professional blacksmith. The
elementary practice in welding, upsetting and tem-
pering is easily learned with a little practice. Nor
is it necessary to have many tools. An entire equip-
ment may cost but a few dollars.
270 HANDY FARM DEVICES
An old railroad rail will do for an anvil. But
after getting the real article one is better satisfied
and can do the work with greater ease. The forge
should be obtained at the start. With it almost
anyone can heat any small iron to welding point
with as much ease as a regular blacksmith.
In the equipment of an Ohio farmer are a pair
of tongs that he made himself, two other tongs
and a large pair of pinchers picked up in a junk
shop. He got the hammer and sledge from a hired
man who had worked in a car shop. The anvil
and vise also came from the junk shop, and both
were in good repair. These cost $8, the hammer
and sledge, $1.15, and an old, second-hand forge,
$1.80. Not a large outlay to be sure, but a wise
expenditure. If purchased at first hand the cost
would be greater, but cheap at any price when you
consider what you can do in the way of making and
repairing with such a list of blacksmith tools.
In addition to the above list this man, Frank
Ruhlen, has chisels, pinchers, fullers and other small
tools, all of which he has made out of old pieces
of steel taken from old worn-out machines. By
figuring and planning just a little, any farmer can
make the greater part of his own tools and at a
very small cost for materials and labor.
Why the Shop Pays
Mr. Ruhlen says: My shop was not started to
replace the town blacksmith shop ; and it will never
do so. But it does serve for repair work, and it
saves many trips to town. It is helpful in other
ways, also. Last winter a sudden ice spell came
on, so severe that I could not get the horses out to
the field to feed the flock. Only one thing was
WORTH KNOWING 27I
possible: to have sharpened shoes put on the
horses. But it was a disagreeable trip ahead to
walk and lead the horses to town; so I decided to
do the work myself. I had never set a shoe my-
self, but that trip before me quickly decided. The
horses were brought into the shop, the old shoes
pulled off and sharpened, and within an hour the
feeding was done. Had I gone to town for the
work it would have required time going and com-
ing, and then, maybe a long wait ahead for my turn
at the shop.
Last year I sharpened the shoes on the corn
planter, and both cultivators, six shovels each.
,We wore out a steel point or shear, and never had it
to shop but once, and then it was to get a new nose
or point. I do not try to put steel points on anyr
thing, as it is too particular work for anyone who
just picks tools up when something breaks. A
sharp harrow is a luxury on most farms, because
the average smith does not draw the teeth out
enough, and they are dull in a few days.
And I do not believe the average smith can
harden the farm tools as good as a farmer who has
had some experience in tempering, as the farmer is
the one who works with the tools, and soon learns
when they are too hard or not hard enough. I
sharpened my smoothing harrow last year before
we commenced on our corn crop of 64 acres, used
it on all the land, on some more than once, and my
harrow is sharper now than my neighbor's, who
paid $1.50 at the shop for the same work. We
never use a dull mattock or pick now as we did
before we had a forge. Welding chains, making
chain hooks, open rings, clevises, are all easy to do
on rainy days. I could not tell all the different uses
I make of my shop.
272 HANDY FARM DEVICES "
Blacksmithing Not Hired Man's Work
i do the work in the shop myself, fimding other
chores for hired men. You cannot afford to break
them in, for the reason that they may soon leave and
all the teaching and trouble would be for nothing.
By doing the work myself, I have learned a little
more each year, have acquired the knack of it, and
really enjoy doing what is to be done. Had we
had a shop when I was a boy all of the repair work
could have been done by the boys, and I would at
the same time have had splendid training for my
own needs now.
My experience is all in favor of the shop on the
farm. It pays well. Get the forge first, and then
gradually add other tools as you can. I used a
claw hammer for some time before getting a smith's
hammer. I did not equip my shop all at once.
Start in a small way, build up gradually, learn
slowly, and the shop will develop itself. Get a
shop, and you will believe in it because of its help
to you.
HORSESHOE LEVER
A handy lever for prying up boxes or barrels
may be made by nailing an old horseshoe on the
end of a 2 X 4, letting the ends of the horseshoe
extend about an inch or two beyond the end of the
timber. A more finished device may be constructed
by cutting the upper part of the lever down to the
form of a rounded handle. A horseshoe should be
selected with fairly long and well-sharpened heel
calks.
WORTH KNOWING 273
HORSESHOE FOR A TOOt
HOW TO PAINT TIN ROOFS
Remove all rosin and other loose substances
from seams and have roof clean. Paint immedi-
ately after laying is finished; do not allow
the tin to rust — you coat the base plate with tin
and lead to prevent rust, and paint the finished
goods to prevent oxidation of the coating. Use
only the best red or brown oxide of iron, mixed
with pure linseed oil all raw, or half raw and half
boiled. Use litharge only as a drier. Litharge
makes paint adhere hard to coating, so that when
thoroughly dry you cannot scrape it off. Don't use
any turpentine or patent driers.
Apply all paint with hand brushes and rub in
well. This is very important. Don't put paint on
thick — one coat that covers well, and is thoroughly
rubbed in, is better than three put on thick. Let
roof stand two weeks to a month before applying
second coat. Six months or so after applying
second coat put on a third coat. After this you do
not have to paint roof more than once every two
or three years. Too much paint injures a tin roof.
274 HANDY FARM DEVICES
Keep paint well stirred up; put on thin and rub
well in. By following these directions you will
have a roof that will last many years.
PRESERVING WOOD
Creosote, or sulphate of copper or iron, are effec-
tive for preserving wood. There are objections,
however, to their use for floorings or ornamental
woodwork. Creosote leaves a permanent, dis-
agreeable smell. The sulphates discolor the wood.
Borax is excellent for keeping wood from decay.
The preparation of it is simple, and consists in im-
mersing the wood in a saturated solution of borax,
which is then heated to 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The
wood is left for 10 or 12 hours, the time depending
upon the density and size of the pieces of wood.
When taken out, the wood is stacked until dry, ■
then reimmersed in a weaker solution of the borax
for a brief time, dried again, and are then ready for
use. Boards thus prepared are practically inde-
structible from rot, and are nearly incombustible.
Another preservative is a compound of one part
silicate of potassa and three of pure water — the
wood to remain in the solution 24 hours, then dried
for several days, then soaked and dried a second
time and afterward painted twice with a mixture
of one part water-cement and four of the first-
mentioned mixture. Thus prepared, it will not
decay in the ground, and will be incombustible out
of it.
Another process for preventing decay of wood is
by use of a paint which possesses the advantages
of being impervious to water. It is composed of 50
parts of tar, 500 parts of fine white sand, 4 parts
WORTH KNOWING 275
of linseed oil, i part of the red oxide of copper in
its native state, and i part of sulphuric acid. The
tar, sand and oil should be first heated in an iron
kettle; the oxide and acid are then added very
•carefully. The mass is thoroughly mixed and ap-
plied while hot. When dry, this paint is as hard
as stone.
Decay in wood may be prevented by the follow-
ing method: Take 20 parts of resin, 46 parts of
finely powdered chalk, some hard sand, and a little
linseed oil and sulphuric acid; mix and boil for a
short time. If this is applied while hot, it forms a
kind of varnish, thereby preserving the wood.
TO PRESERVE SHINGLES
Following is an effective method to prevent the
•decay of shingles: Take a potash kettle or large
tub and put into it one barrel of lye of wood ashes,
5 pounds of white vitriol, 5 pounds of alum, and as
much salt as will dissolve in- the mixture. Make
the preparation quite warm, and put as many
shingles in it as can be conveniently wet at once.
Stir them up with a fork, and, when well soaked,
take them out and put in more, renewing the pre-
servative solution when necessary. Then lay the
shingles in the usual manner.
After they are laid, take more of the preserva-
tive, put lime enough into it to make whitewash,
and, if any coloring is desirable, add ocher, Span-
ish brown, lampblack, or other color, and apply to
the roof with a brush or an old broom. This wash
may be renewed from time to time.
Salt and lye are excellent preservatives of wood.
Leach tubs, troughs and other articles used in the
2y(i HANDY FARM DEVICES
manufacture of potash never rot. They become
saturated with the alkali, turn yellowish inside and
remain impervious to the weather.
TO RENDER WOOD FIREPROOF
Rendering the woodwork of houses secure
against catching fire can be done at an insignificant
cost, and with little trouble. Saturate the wood-
work with a very delicate solution of silicate of
potash as nearly neutral as possible, and when this
has dried, apply one or two coats of a stronger
solution.
Another method is simply to soak the wood with
a concentrated solution of rock salt. Water-glass
will act as well, but it is expensive. The salt also
renders the wood proof against dry rot and the
ravages of insects. Still another method is to im-
merse the wood in a saturated solution of borax,
heat being gradually applied until the solution
reaches 212 degrees Fahrenheit. It is then left for
10 or 12 hours, according to the nature and size
of the wood.
FIREPROOF WASH FOR SHINGLES
A preparation composed of lime, salt and fine
sand or wood ashes, put on like whitewash, ren-
ders the roof 50 per cent more secure against tak-
ing fire from falling cinders, in case of fire in the
vicinity. It pays the expense a hundredfold in its
preserving influence against the efifects of the
weather. The older and more weather-beaten the
shingles, the more benefit derived. Such shingles,
generally become more or less warped, rough and
cracked; the application of the wash, by wetting
WORTH KNOWING 27/
the Upper surface, restores them at once to fheir
original form, thereby closing up the space between
the shingles, and the lime and sand, by filling up
the cracks and pores in the shingle itself, prevents
warping.
PETRIFIED WOOD
Mix equal parts of gem salt, rock alum, white
vinegar, chalk and Peebles' powder. After the
mixture becomes quiet, put into it any wood or
porous substance, and the latter becomes like stone.
HOW TO SEASON WOOD
Boiling small pieces of non-resinous wood will
season them in four or five hours — the process tak-
ing the sap out of the wood, which shrinks nearly
one-tenth in the operation. Trees felled in full leaf
in June or July, and allowed to lie until every leaf
has fallen, will then be nearly dry, as the leaves
will not drop off themselves until they have drawn
up and exhausted all the sap of the tree. The time
required is from a month to six weeks, according to
the dryness of the weather.
BLEACHING WOOD
Sometimes it is more feasible to bleach a small
part of a wood surface, especially in repairing, than
to darken a larger portion of the work. This can
be done by brushing over the wood a solution com-
posed of I ounce oxalic acid in a pint of water,
letting it remain a few minutes and then wiping
dry. The operation may be repeated if necessary.
A few drops of nitric ether, or a quarter of an
ounce of tartaric acid, will assist the operation; or
1878 HANDY FARM DEVICES
a hot solution of tartaric acid may be used
alone. Lemon juice will also whiten most woods.
Cut the lemon in half and rub the cut face upon
the wood.
When the bleaching has been done and the wood
is dry, give a thin coat of shellac or French polish,
as the light and air acting upon the bare wood will
bring back the original color.
If the wood obstinately resists bleaching, it may
be lightened by mixing a little fine bismuth white,,
flake white or ball white (the cleansing balls sold
by druggists) with the. shellac, and give it a thin
coat. This whitens, but it also somewhat deadens
or obscures the grain and is, therefore, not so good
as the bleaching method.
WOOD POLISH
Rub evenly over the wood a piece of pumice
stone and water until the rising of the grain is cut .
down; then take powdered tripoli and boiled lin-
seed oil and polish to a bright surface.
FURNITURE POLISH
Take equal parts of sweet oil and vinegar, mix,,
add a pint of gum arabic finely powdered. This
will make furniture look almost as good as new
and can be easily applied, as it requires no rubbing.
The bottle should be shaken, and the polish poured
on a rag and applied to the furniture.
SIZE STAINS
By the aid of glue in the solution, the colors are
fixed in size stains. They are employed for the
WORTH KNOWING 279;'
purpose of giving a color to cheap work in soft
woods, such as chairs, bedsteads and common tables,
and ordinary bookcases. The colors usually wanted
are walnut, mahogany, cherry color, oak and even
a rosewood.
For Mahogany — Dissolve i pound of glue in a
gallon of water, and stir in J4 pound Venetian red,,
and J4 pound chrome yellow, or yellow ocher.
Darken with the red and lighten with yellow, as.
desired. If the Venetian red does not give a suf-
ficiently dark look put in a pinch of lampblack.
Apply hot.
For Rosewood — Same as mahogany, omitting the
yellow, and using % pound Venetian red (or more)
instead of J^ pound. Give one coat of this and
then add lampblack, one pinch, or more, to the
color; with the latter put in the figure or dark
parts of the rosewood.
For Oak — In a gallon of glue size (as above)
put % pound powdered burnt umber. Lighten
with yellow (chrome or ocher), if need be. Hot.
DARK WOOD STAIN
White woods may be given the appearance of
walnut by painting or sponging them with a con-,
centrated warm solution of permanganate of
potassa. Some kinds of wood become stained
rapidly, while others require more time. The per-
manganate is decomposed by the woody fiber;
brown peroxide of manganese is deposited, which
afterward may be removed by washing with water.
The wood, when dry, may be varnished, and will
be found to resemble very closely the natural dark
woods.
280 HANDY FARM DEVICES
RED STAIN FOR WOOD
Boil chopped Brazil wood thoroughly in water,
strain it through a cloth. Then give the wood two
or three coats, till it is the shade wanted. If a deep
red is desired, boil the wood in water in which is
dissolved alum and quicklime. When the last coat
is dry, burnish it with the burnisher and then
varnish.
LIQUID GLUE
Dissolve I pound of best glue in ij4 pints of
water, and add i pint of vinegar. It is ready for
use.
CEMENT FOR METAL AND GLASS
Take 2 ounces of a thick solution of glue, and
mix it with i ounce of linseed-oil varnish, and half
an ounce of pure turpentine; the whole is then
boiled together in a close vessel. The two bodies
should be clamped and held together for about two
days after they are united to allow the cement to
become dry. The clamps may then be removed.
CEMENT FOR BROKEN CHINA
Stir plaster of paris into a thick solution of gum
arable till it becomes a viscous paste. Apply it
with a brush to the fractured edges, and draw the
parts closely together.
CEMENT FOR CROCKERY AND GLASS
Take 4 pounds of white glue, ij^ pounds of dry
white lead, J4 pound of isinglass, i gallon of soft
water, i quart of alcohol, and ^ pint of white
WORTH KNOWING 281
varnish. Dissolve the glue and isinglass in the
water by gentle heat if preferred, stir in the lead,,
put the alcohol in the varnish and mix the whole
together.
MENDING GLASSWARE
Broken dishes and glassware may be easily
mended as follows: Fit the pieces in their proper
places and tie a string around the vessel to keep
the parts from slipping out. Then boil the entire
dish for two or three hours in sweet milk. This,
will firmly glue the vessel together and it will last
for years with proper care.
ARMENIAN CEMENT
This will strongly unite pieces of glass and
china, and even polished steel, and may be applied
to a variety of useful purposes. Dissolve five or
six bits of gum mastic, each the size of a large pea,
in as much rectified spirits of wine as will sufSce
to render it liquid; and, in another vessel, dissolve
as much isinglass, previously a little softened in
■water (though none of the water must be used), in
French brandy or good rum, as will make a two-
ounce vial of very strong glue, adding two small
bits of gum galbanum of ammoniacum, which must
be rubbed or ground till they are dissolved. Then
mix the whole with a sufficient heat. Keep the glue
in a vial closely stopped, and when it is to be used
set the vial in boiling water.
JAPANESE CEMENT
Thoroughly mix the best powdered rice with a
little cold water, then gradually add boiling water
until a proper consistence is acquired, being par-
:282 HANDY FARM DEVICES
ticularly careful to keep it well stirred all the time ;
lastly it must be boiled for one minute in a clean
^saucepan or earthen pipkin. This glue is white,
almost transparent, for which reason it is well
adapted for fancy paper work, which requires a
strong and colorless cement.
ROOFING PREPARATION
Take i pint of fine sand, 2 of sifted wood-ashes,
and 3 of lime ground up with oil. Mix thoroughly,
and lay on with a painter's brush, first a thin coat,
and then a thick one. This composition is not only
-cheap, but it strongly resists fire. •
FIRE KINDLERS
Take i quart of tar and 3 pounds of resin, melt
them, bring to a cooling temperature, mix with as
much sawdust, with a little charcoal added, as can
be worked in; spread out while hot upon a board,
when cold break up into lumps of the size of a
'large hickory nut, and you have, at a small expense,
kindling material enough for one year. They will
easily ignite from a match and burn with a strong
blaze, long enough to start any wood that is fit
to burn.
MENDING PIPES WITH WATER ON
Many farmers have had trouble in repairing pipes
where the water could not be shut off conveniently.
A lead pipe which has been cut off accidentally in
making an excavation, for instance, may be re-
paired by the following plan: The two ends of
the pipe are plugged, and then a small pile of
"broken ice and salt are placed around them ; in five
minutes the water in the pipe will be frozen, the
WORTH KNOWING 283
plugs removed, a short piece of pipe may then be
inserted and perfectly soldered. In five minutes
the ice in the pipes may be thawed and the water
set to flowing freely again.
TO JOIN WATER PIPES
Water pipes may be united by using a prepara-
tion made by combining four parts of good port-
land cement and one part of unslaked lime mixed
together in small portions in a stout mortar, adding
enough water to permit it to be reduced to a soft
paste.
WELDING METALS
Welding together two pieces of metal of any kind
can be accomplished only when the surfaces to be
joined are equally heated, and both surfaces must
be brought to such a temperature that the par-
ticles will form a perfect continuity between tKie
pieces united. This embraces the entire theory of
welding, soldering or brazing metallic substances
of any kind. In addition, however, to the equal
and adequate heating of the surfaces to be united,
every particle of coal dust, cinders or scales of
oxide must be removed, so as to present two per-
fectly clean surfaces at the very moment when the
union is to be effected.
The piece of metal that would fuse at the lower
temperature must be the guide, when bringing the
surfaces of conjunction up to the proper heat. If,
for example, two pieces of wrought iron are to be
welded, the part that will melt at the lower tem-
perature must be brought just to a welding heat, and
the surface of the other priece must be heated quite
284 HANDY FARM DEVICES
as hot, or a trifle hotter than the first piece. Then,
if the surfaces are clean when the parts are brought
together, the union will be satisfactory. The de-
gree of heat aimed at must be, not to produce a
fluid, but simply to bring the metal into a condi-
tion between the fluid and plastic.
GRINDING TOOLS
All steel is composed of individual fibers running
lengthways in the bar and held firmly together by
cohesion. In almost all farm implements of the
cutting kind the steel portion which forms the edge,
if from a section of a bar, is welded to the bar
lengthwise, so that it is the side of the bundle of
fibers hammered and ground down that forms the
edge. So, by holding on the grindstone all edge-
tools, as axes, scythes and knives of strawcutters,
in such a manner that the action of the stone is at
right angles with the edge, or, this is to say, by
holding the edge of the tools square across the
stone, the direction of the fibers will be changed,
so as to present the ends instead of the side as a
cutting edge. By grinding in this manner a finer,
smoother edge is set, the tool is ground in less
time, holds an edge a great deal longer, and is far
less liable to nick out and to break.
Plane irons should be ground to a level of about
35 degrees— chisels and gouges to 30. Turning
chisels may sometimes run in an angle of 45.
Molding tools, such as are used for ivory and for
very hard wood, are made at from 50 to 60 degrees.
Tools for working iron and steel are beveled at an
inclination to the edge of from 60 to 70 degrees,
and for cutting gun and similar metal range from
80 to 90.
INDEX
Page
A
Angles, Meastuing 34
Angles, Plotting 3S
Anvil, Mounting 246
Anvil, Rail 10
Ax Handle, How to Secure 15
B .
Bag Holder 110, 111
Balance for Weighing 107
Bam Driveway 115
Bam Plans 200
Bam, Round 198
Bam, Small 202
Bam Stairs 105
Bam Tmck 109
Bam Windlass 108
Barrel Carrier 260
Barrel Coolers 60
Barrel Coop 120
Barrel Cradle 46
Barrel Hoop Trellis 132
Barrel Plant Holder 72
Bars with Horseshoe Support ... 181
Bee Feeder 130
Bee Hives 127
Beeswax Extractor 129
Bench, Com Husking 112
Bicycle for Power 55
Binding Pins for Hay 255
Bin for Vegetables 72
Bins, Grain 109
Bin, Hinged Grain 108
Blacksmith Shop, Farm 269
Bleaching Wood 277
Boat, Boxed Stone 157
Bolts, Use for 16
Box for Clothes 48
Box for Potatoes 248
Box for Tying Fleece 97
Box Whedbarrow 240
Brace Rule 23
Bread Cutting Board 59
Brooder 123
Brooder, House 124
Bridge, Small 160
Building, House 189
Butchering Derrick 100
Butchering Rig 98
Butter Wagon Refrigerator 264
Butter Worker 51
C
Cabbage Cutter 114
Calf Stanchions S7
CampingTent 171
Cans, for Scoops 4 49
Carrier, Barrel 260
Carrier, Yoke 163
Cart for Stock 91
Catch, Gate 181
Catcher, Pig 105
Cellar, Concrete Outdoor 227
Cellar, Temporary 74
Cellar Shelf, Revolving 77
Cellar Stairs, Hint for 82
Cellar Wall, Concrete 225
Cement Block House 195
Cementing Cistern Wall 230
Cements for Mending. 280
Cement, Mixing for Brick 223
Cement, Specif Uses for 231
Chain Tie 87
Cheese Making 52
Cheese Press 52
Chicken Catcher 126
Chicken Coop, Box 121
Chicken Coop, Portable 123
Chicken Fotmtain 118
Chicken Roosts 118
China Cement 280
Cistern Wall, Cementing 230
Clamp, Harness 262
Cleanuig a Well 66
Closet for Toilet Articles 76
Closet, Outdoor 63
Clothes Box 48
Clothes Horse 76
Clothes Line Elevator 75
Cold Frames 140
Concrete Anvil Foundation 246
Concrete Block Machine 218
Concrete Blocks 217
Concrete Cellar Wall 225
Concrete Mixing 216
Concrete Floor 229
Concrete On the Farm 214
Concrete Outdoor Cellar 227
Concrete Reinforced with Wood. 231
Concrete Reinforcement 224
Concrete Smokehouse 229
Concrete Walk 230
Cooker, Tank 243
Cooler in Well 62,64
Cooler, Water 60
Coop, Barrel 120
Coop, Box 121
Coop, Portable Chicken 123
Coop, Trap Door 121
Cora Crib, Wire 211
'Com Drying Rack 236
Com Husking Rack 112
Cottage Plans 193
Cow Stall 84
286
INDEX
Page
Cow Stanchions 86
Cows, How to Stake Out 92
Cows, Stalls for Kicking 88
Cradle, Barrel 46
Crate, Vegetable 248
Crows, How to Scare 126
Cultivator, Hand Garden. ...... 142
Cutter, Feed 112
Cutter, Seed Potato 248
Cutter, Root 113
Cutter, Vegetable 114
D
Dam 161
Derrick, Carcass , 100
Derrick, Portable Hay 154
Ditching Scraper 160
Dog Power for Pump 67
Door Fastener, Stall 186
Door Fasteners 184
Door Latch 188
Doors, Glass Panels for 44
Doors, Double Latch for 185
Drag and Harrow Combined 256
Dresser ,. 41
Drinking Fotmtain for Chicks .... 118
Drinking Fountain, Poultry 117
Drogue , 159
Dumb Waiter 37
E
Euclid, 47th Problem of 32
Extractor, Solar Wax. . , 129
F
Fastener, Stall Door 186
Fasteners for Doors 184
Feed Basket 83
Feed Box 84
Feed Box, Partitioned 93
Feed Cutter 112
Feed Hopper, Poviltry 116
Feed Rack 95
Feed Rack, Portable 96
FeederforBees 130
Fence, Movable 183
Fence, Over Stream 182
Fence Wire Reel 155
Filter 70
Filter for Cistern 68
Fire Alarm 80
Fire Kindlers 282
Fire Ladder 82
Fireprooflng Shingles , . 276
Fleece Tying Box 97
Floating Fence 182
Floor, Concrete 229
Floor, How to Lay 213
Flowers in Barrel 72
Fodder Rack 164
Folding Table 50
Food Cooler 60
Fruit Picker 148
Fruit Sorting Table. , ISl
Fuel, How to Haul 168
Fumigating Seed Grain 254
Furniture Polish 278
Page
G
Garden Stool 144
Gate, Adjustable 179
Gate, Balanced Wire 175
Gate Catch 181
Gate Hanger, Adjustable 178
Gate, Pole and Wire 176
Gate, Sliding 177
Gate. Suspended 182
Gate, TumstUe 180
Gate with Wheel 175
Germination Box 250
Glass Cement 280
Glass in Doors 44
Glue, Liquid 280
Grain Bins 109
Grain Box, Hinged 108
Grain, Killing Insects in. ...... . 254
Grain Sack Holder 110, 111
Greenhouses 208
Grinding Tools 284
Grindstone Rig 9
H
Hammer, Pulling 24^
Harness Clamp . . . . , 262
Harrow and Drag Combined. . . . 256
Hay Derrick 154
Hay Bmding Pins 255
Hawks, How to Scare 126
Hawk Trap 126.
Hawks, Trap for 14*
Heat for Hotbed Ija
Heater, Lamp 57
Heating Water 99
Hen House 125
Hitches, Rope 256
Hives, Bee 127
Hog Butchering Rig ' 98
Hog House, Movable 102
Hog Pens 104
Hog Trough, Partitioned 102
Holder, Grain Sack 110, 111
Hoop Trellis 131
Horse, Feed Basket 83
Horse Feed Box 84
Horse, Folding 12
Horse, Shaving 12
Horseshoes for Bars 18L
Horseshoe Lever 272
Hotbed, Heat for 138
Hotbed, How to Make 136
Hotbed, Permanent 137
House Building, Hints for 189
House, Cement Block 195
House, Plans for 190
Houses, Hog 104
I
Ice House 204
Ice House and Milk House. . . . 207
Ice Molds 233
Jack, Log 170
Jack, Wagon 238
INDEX
287
Page
K
Kettle Tripod 241
Kindlers, Fire 282
^Kitchen Cabinet 39
Kitchen Cabinet at Window 43
Knots, How to Tie 2S8
L
Ladder on Wheels 151
Ladder, Place for 82
Ladder, Truss 150
l^amp Heater 57
Land Measure 167
Lantern Hanger 106
Latch, Door 188
Latch for Double Doors 185
Lawn Mower Feed Gutter 112
Level, Homemade 14
Light, More for Rooms 44
Liquid Glue 280
Loading Rig 164
Logging Bob 169
Log Jack 170
Log WaterTrough 244
Logging, Rig for 168
Lumber Rule 20
H
Mail Box, Trolley 71
Market Wagon Conveniences. ... 263
Measure, Land 167
Measuring Angles 34
Medicine Closet 76
Mending Water Pipes 282
Metal Welding 283
Milk and Houses Combined 207
Milking Stool 88, 89, 90
Miter Box 24
Mold for Concrete Blocks 221
Molds, Ice 233
N
Neck Chain for Cattle 87
Nests, Trap 119
O
Octagon Scale 23
Old Oaken Bucket 232
Outdoor Closet 63
P
PaintmgTin Roof 273
Papering a Room 265
Petrified Wood 277
Picker, Fruit 148
Plans, Bam 200
Plans for Cottage 193
Plans for House 190
Plant Protector 134
Platform for Pump 65
Porch, Vine-Covered 213
Preserving Wood 274
Pig Net 105
Pipe Twister 263
Plotting Angles 35
Plow, Snow 241
Pde and Wire Gate 176
Page'
Polish, Furniture 278'
Post Puller 165*
Potato Cutter 249-
Potato Sorter 246-
Poultry Coop 121
Poultry Feed Box 11&
Poultry House on Runners 124
Power for Pump 67
Puller, Post 165
PuUey-Hung Lantern 106»
Ptdling Stumps 166'
Pump, Dog Power for 67
Pump Platform, Ventilated 65
R
Rack, Com Husking 112"
Rack, Fodder Haulmg 164
Rack tor Com 236
Rack, Hanging Feed 95
Rack for Milking Stool 90-
Rack for Preserves 38
Rack fof Seed Com 235
Rack, Portable Feed 96
Rack, Water for Hens 117
Rafters, How to Lay Out 28-
Reel, Clothes 76
Reel, Wire on Boat '. . 156-
Reel| Wire on Wheels 155
Refrigerator 64 ■
Rein Clip 263
Reinforced Concrete 224
Reservoir. Storage 167
Right Angles, How to Figtire. ... 32
Roller, Road 158
Rope, How to Handle 256
Roof, PaintingTin 273-
Roofing Preparation 282
Roosts, Folding 1 1&.
Root Cutter, Saw 113
Round Bam 198
S
Saw Horse 170
Seasoning Wood 277
Seed Com Rack 234
Seed Com Testing 250
Seed Potato Cutter 248
Seed Sower 162
Seed, Watering 144
Separator, Run by Tread Power 56
Scissors, How to Sharpen 265
Scraper, Ditching 160.'
Scoops from Tin Cans 49
Sharpening Scissors 265
Shavmg Horse 12
Sheep Fence, Movable 183
Sheep Feed Trough 94'
Sheds, Straw Covered 94
Shelf, Revolving 77
Shelter, Plant 134
Shingles, Preserving 275
Size Stains 278
Skidway 169'
Slatted Stall 88
Slaughter House 99"-
Smokehouse, Concrete 22^
Smoking Device 243^
288
INDEX
Page
Snow Plow 214
.Solder, How to Make 17
Soldering 16
Sorter, Potato 246
Sorting Table 151
Sowing Machine 162
Square, How to True 26
Square, the Steel 19
Stall for Cows 84
Stains, Wood 279
Stair Stringer, How to Lay Out. . 30
Stairs, Bam 105
Stalling Out Stock 92
■Stanchions, Swinging 86
Stanchions for Calves 87
Steel Square, Use of 19
Stock-Cart 91
StoneBoat, Boxed 157
Stool, Garden 144
Stool, Milking 88, 89, 90
Stool Rack 90
Stove, Fence Around 47
Straight Edge, How to Make 28
Straw-Covered Sheds 94
Stream, Fence Across 183
Stump Pulling 166
Surveying, Rule for 33
Suspended Gate 182
Swinging Sheep Trough 94
X
Table, Folding 50
Table, Fruit Sorting 151
Tank Heater 243
Tent, Camping 171
Testing Seed 250
Tool Grinding 284
Tools Needed for "Workshop 7
Transplanting Large Tree 146
Trap for Owls 145
Trap. Hawk 126
Trap Nests 119
Tread Power for Separator 56
Trees, How to Move 146
Tree, Transplanting 147
Trellis, Folding 132
TreUis, BarreJ Hoop 132
Trellis for Beans 133
Trellis, Iron Hoop 131
Trellis, Self-Supporting 134
Trolley Mailbox 71
Trough, Sheep. 94
Trough, Partitioned Hog 102
Truck for Bam 109
Truing the Square 26
TubFeedBox 93
Turnstile Gate 1»0
Paga
V
Vat, Butchering 98
Vegetable Storage Bin 72
Veranda, Vine-Covered 213
W
Wagon Jack 238
Wagon, Market 263
Walk, Concrete 230
Wall, Cementing 230
Wall Paper, How to Hang 265
Washing Machine, Pedal Power 55
Water Bottle, Poultry 117
Water Cooler 60
Water Filter 70
Water Filter for Cistern 68
Water Heating for Butchering ... 99
Water Pipes, Mending 282
Watering Rack for Hens 117
Watering Seed 144
WaterStoring 167
Water Supply for House 77
WaterTrough 244
Wedge Staple 15
Weighing Balance 107
Weight Lifter 237
Welding Metals 283
Well Frontispiece
Well Cooler 62, 64
Well, How to Clean 66
Wheelbarrow 239
Wheelbarrow Sheep Trough. ... . 96
Wheel Gate 174
Windlass, Bam 108
Windlass for Butchering 98
Wire Gate 176
Wire Reel on Boat 156
Wire Reel on Wheels 155
Wire Splicer 13
Wire Tightener 155
Wood Bleaching 277
Wood Fireproofing 276
Wood, Hauling 168
Wood, How to Split 245
Wood, Petrified 277
Wood Polish. 278
Wood, Preserving 274
Wood. Seasoning 277
Wood Splitter 245
Workshop, The Farmer's 7
Wrench, Bit-Stock It
Y
Yoke Crate Carrier lit
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