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I N THE KITCHEN
"With baked and: boiled and stewed and toasted,
And fried and broiled and smoked and roasted.
We treat th.e town! — Salmagundi.
BOSTON:
LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS.
1875.
K
K COPYRIGHT. 3
\ X*
X „
ELIZABETH S. MILLJ5K.
X
^ A. P. 1875. J
Electrotyped and Printed "by
Alfred Mudgk & Son, Boston.
THIS BOOK
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
TO THE
"COOKING CLASS
OF THE
YOUNG LADIES' SATURDAY MORNING CLUB,5
OF
BOSTON, MASS.
Some of these receipts are French, some German, many are from English
books, and many from excellent Americc.u collections. No small number are
taken from written receipt-books of families famous both at the North and
South for their savory cooking. Others are the result of weighing and
measuring the ingredients of delightful dishes which celebrated cooks have,
for the last fifty years, prepared " according to judgment." Most of these
receipts have been tested by myself, and there is not one in which I have
not full confidence.
ELIZABETH S. MILLER.
Geneva, N. Y., 1875.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
The Table 17
Utensils 27
SOUPS.
Asparagus soup 37
Beef " 35
Beef-bone " 34
Beef and okra soup 36
Beef " (Cazenovia) 36
Broth in an hour. . 37
Brown veal broth 37
Carrot soup 40
Calf s head or mock turtle soup 38
Celery soup 55
Chicken" 40
Chicken gombo (Mrs. M. N. O.) 41
Clam soup (Mrs. Dr. Bayard) 32
" '• (Mary) 33
" " (Mrs Biddle) 33
Cocoanut soup 52
Corn " 55
Crab gombo (Mrs. I. E. Morse) 43
Gombojilet, simple 41
" " (Prof. Dimi try) 42
Liebig soup 60
Mock terrapin soup 39
Mookturtle " 38
Mulligatawney " (Gen. Stuart) 45
" " No. 2 46
" " (English receipt) 46
Mutton " 47
Nantucket " 32
Noodle " 47
Onion " 56
Okra " (Dr. Picot) 44
" (H. A. W. Barclay)...:... 44
" gombo (Mrs. I. E. Morse) 43
Oyster soup 34
Parker House soup 47
Pea " dried 57
" " green 66
Potato " (Mrs. Strattan) 57
" " (Mary) 58
Kice " 47
Sago and tomato soup 48
Spinach " 48
Summer " 49
Tapioca " 49
PAGE
Tomato soup No . 1 (Friday) 59
" No. 2 " 59
" " (Hudson) (Friday) 58
Turtle bean soup No. 1 ... 50
" . " " No. 2 51
"Vegetable " 54
White " Medford 52
" No.l ;. v 52
" No. 2 53
" " with almonds 54
Soup it la Julienne -. 48
" with poached eggs 48
Bread' browned and crisped for soup 61
Force meat balls for soup 60
To brown flour for soups and gravies 60
Vermicelli and macaroni for soup 61
FISH.
Bass black (Canadian), fried 75
" with tomato 68
Brook trout ' , 83
Trout, boiled 68
Celia's success 83
Codfish and potato moulded and browned 82
" croquettes 81
" forbreakfast 80
" to freshen 79
Cod, curried 70
Codfish (Mary's) for Friday dinner 81
Eels, broiled 75
Eel, collared 75
Fish steaks 76
" steamed 68
" scalloped 74
German picklinqe ( W. F. M.) 83
Haddock or cod (fresh) fried- 83
" stewed 69 •
Mackerel (fresh), it la maitre 78
" (salt) with cream 80
" (salt) broiled 80
Bock, striped bass, stewed 69
Salmon, cutlets 76
" dried 77
" pickled 77
Salt fish, to freshen 79
Scotch " fish and sauce " 78
Shad, potted 74
" planked 73
8
CONTEXTS.
PAGE
Smelts, fried TO
Sturgeon, fried 77
stewed 78
SHELL FISH.
Chowder, clam 71
" " (Dr. Colman) 72
" (Gloucester) 73
" (Maryland) 70
Crabs, farcies : 84
" (soft), fried 84
Frogs, fricassee brown 91
" " white 92
Lobster taken from the shell 91
" a la Dabney 91
Oysters ( Bay City) 8G
" boiled 85
" broiled 8(5
" caclie'cs 88
" croquettes 89
" en oarriere 88
" fried 85
" frozen 90
" loaf.. 87
" omelette 89
" pate's 87
" pie 87
" pickled 90
" scalloped 86
" squizzled 85
" steamed 85
" stewed 84
Terrapins (J. Savage) 90
Stewed Terrapin (Mrs. F. B. C. ) 93
Turtle, roasted 92
POULTRY.
Chickens : directions for killing 99
" " trussing, 100
" " " cutting 100
" boiled 100
" broiled 104
" braising 103
" braised 104
" croquettes 109
" " (Pittsburg)... 109
" curry with cocoanut 105
" and chicken jelly 110
" in jelly. .... .' Ill
" excellent way 103
" fricasseed 105
" " (brown) 10G
" " (Duddington) 107
" pate' (Mrs. Hastings) 108
" pilau 107
" and oyster pie Ufi
" timbal 107
" lissoles Ill
" Toasted.. — 101
" stew, with vegetables.,, — ... 103
" Fried 117
PASB
Chicken: steamed 1C2
" " dressing for 102
" with cream ' K8
Cocks' combs, for vol au vent 154
Ducks, roasted 113
Galantines 11G
Goose, roasted 114
Pigeons, in jelly- 114
' ' a mould of jelly 115
" roasted 114
" stewed 114
Savory jelly to ornament cold meats 115
Turkey, boiled 112
" roasted 112
" hashed. 113
BEEF.
Beef, a la mode 125
" (Duddington) 125
" (corned), boiled 140
" breakfast 133
" eannelon de s . 133
" croquettes 135
" curry of cold.roast 133
" daube 126
" Despard red round 134
" en matelote 132
" French stew 131
" . .(dried), frizzled 134
" hash..., 132
" (corned), hash 140
" pie 131
" .steak broiled 126
" Pine Street stew. ., 131
" steak pudding (Mrs. Messenger) 128
" " " No. 2 129
" " stewed (Mrs. Glasse).. 127
" " " No 2 128
" steakstuffed , 129
" roasted .,.,..,,, . .., 124
" " with Yorkshire pudding 130
" (Butger's Bolletjes) 141
" smothered in onions 130
" spiced... .... 137
" stew 132
" (tripe), fried... 136
" to corn (Duddington) 138
" " " No.2 138
" " (Jewell) 138
" (Piffard) 139
" tongue boiled 137
" 'r spiced.. 137
" (dried), with cream 134
Ox-cheek cheese 142
A dinner from Cap. Warren's Cooker 140
Kidney ragout 143
To dress kidneys 142
MUTTON.
Mutton, boiled 145
" .braised ; 144
CONTENTS.
9
PAGE
Mutton breast „ 144
'' roast 145
" chops 144
" cold roast 147
" haricot 14li
" legofstuffed 143
" and potato 148
" ragout (Christine's) 148
" (cold), ragout of 147
" stew 145
" English 140
" " Irish , 141!
" and tomato pie 149
" macaroni 149
Limb, breast of 150
" chops ■ 145
" curried 150
VEAL.
Calfs' head boiled, No. 1 150
" • " " " 2 151
" " savory browned 151
Sweetbreads and mushrooms 152
" " tomatoes 153
" " green peas 151
" vol au vent 153
Veal boiled and browned 154
" balls fried 157
" cheese 15!)
" cutlets 155
" frigadel 150
" fried 157
" fricandeau 156
" marbled 158
" minced 159
" pressed.- 158
" ragout 158
" roasted.... 154
" stewed 155
" stuffing •.. 159
" with oysters 159
" liver (or veal) bewitched 101
" " fourchette 100
" " fried 100
" " minced 15!)
" " mock terrapin 161
" stewed 100
" " stuffed 160
" " Pot-pie 162
GAME.
Venison (haunch of), roasted , 103
" stewed 103
Hare jugged 101
Babbit curried 104
Grouse roasted , 165
" " (Madame Morvan) 105
New Zealand mode of cooking birds 166
Partridge, stewed , 160
Reed birds 107
Woodcock broiled . 166
" roasted 166
BACON.
PAGE
Bacon cured (Col. fm. Eitz Hugh, M. D. ) 170
" " smaller quantity (Col. Wm. Eitz
Hugh, m. n. ) 171
Ham, baked (Pittsburg)... 173
" boned 173
" boiled and baked 172
" broiled 173
" croquettes, Westphalia 176
" with curry 176
" grated for tea 174
" Ingle 171
" potted 175
" puffs 175
" smoked in the brine 171
" toast 174
" whattodowith 174
" with currant jelly 174
" " vinegar 174
Pig, a delicate roast 108
Pork and beans 170
Spare rib 167
" (fresh), Dutch receipt 168
" steaks 107
Sausage frying 170
" making (Willow Brook) 109
" " (Aunt Hannah) 170
Scrapple 109
Souse 10!)
Consomme' 177
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC.
Canteloupe
Catsup cucumber.
grape . .
lemon .
" tomato (Mrs. Sawyer)
" " (Pittsburg)
Spioed vinegar
Tarragon
Currants spiced
Tomatoes spiced
Pickle apples (sweet)
" - (Aunt Betsy)
" butternuts or walnuts
" cabbage crimson
" cauliflower
" celery :. ...
" chow criow „
" cucumbers (easy mode )....'
" " grated, Eond du Lac.
oil
" French
Higdom (Aunt Betsy)
Pickle Iucho
" Kalamazoo
" nasturtiums ,
" onions
" pepper
" piccalilli (Thorn's)
" tomatoes green
Tomato soy
Pickled walnuts ,
186
. 183
183
. 184
. 184
. 184
. 185
. 185
, 188
. 197
. 187
. 188
. 189
, 190
. 190
. 190
. 191
. 391
. 192
. 192*
. 193
. 189
. 186
. 1!)2
. 194
. 194
. 197
. 194
. 197
. 198
, 189
10
CONTENTS.
_,.,,, PAGE
Pickled yellow, No. 1 195
" No.2 196
Virginia WO
Butter a la Maitre d 'Uotnl 199
Cold slaw dressing , i02
Chicken salad dressing 202
Dresden dressing 203
Mayonnaise, or Mrs. B.'s salad dressing 203
Sauce, bread 199
" celery 202
" Chili 198
" cream 201
" drawn butter 199
for lamb 200
" PfTff 201
fish, No. 1 ■ 200
" '■ No.2 200
Horse-radish 200
Sauce, lemon (cream ) 201
" lobster 204
" oysters 204
" piquante 205
" Robert 205
" tartare 200
•Caramel for browning soups and gravies 20f>
Gravy for poultry 207
" venison 207
Powder peas 207
" sassafras {JUei) 207
Eoux brown and white for gravies 200
VEGETABLES.
Apples, baked for dinner 23(5
" (sour), fried 230
Asparagus .' 224
Artichoke, burr 224
Beans (dried) boiled 220
" " lima 220
" green " 220
" " string 225
Beets 245
Cabbage boiled with pork 239
" dressed with cream 239
" stewed 239
" stuffed 240
Saur Kraut 240
Cauliflower boiled 238
" browned 238
• " with cheese 238
Carrots in mould 242
". stewed : 242
" with curry 243
Celery stewed . . . '. 230
Corn canned with tomatoes 228
" " to dress 228
Corn, baked 227
" Jioiled 227
" fritters 228
" (dried), hulled 229
" (green), stewed 227
Succotash, summer 229
" winter 229
PAGE
Cymblins, like egg-plant 237
" stewed 237
Egg-plant, baked 234
" fritters 234
" fried 235
" served in the shell 234
" stewed 234
Hominy (large), boiled 220
(small), " 221
" (large), browned , 221
" croquettes 221
Macaroni, baked 222
" Irish 224
" savory 223
" simple 223
Morels, stewed 236
Mushrooms, broiled 230
" fried 235
" stewed 235
Okra, stewed 233
" " with tomato 233
Onion, baked 241
" boiled 241
" fried 241
Parsnip, balls...' 245
" boiled 244
" fried 244
" scalloped 244
Peas, green .• 225
" (dried), pu,r£e of 225
Potato and ham 215
" (Aunt Laura's) 217
" baked 215
" " with roast beef 215
" boiled 213
" browned in slices 214
" broiled 214
" croquettes 218
" fried 215
" fried whole _ 215
" Lyonnaise ; 210
" mashed 214
" New Orleans 210
" a la Parisienne 218
" rice 214
" Saratoga '. 210
" scalloped 217
" stifled In a creeper 210
" sweet 21f>
Eice, baked 219
" boiled 219
" croquettes 220
" Turkish pilof * 219
Salsify (oyster plant) croquettes 243
" scalloped 243
" stewed 244
Spinach 224
Sauash (winter), baked, No. 1 237
" " " " 2 237
" " steamed 238
Tomatoes and corn 233
" baked,No.l 230
, " " " 2 230
CONTENTS.
11
PAGE
Tomatoes broiled 233
" en surprise 232
" fried , 232
" stuffed , 231
" G.S 231
Turnips, boiled 245
" mashed 245
Salad, asparagus 248
" beet 248
" beets and potatoes •. . 248
" beef (cold roast) 250
" cabbage (cold slaw) 240
' ' celery 247
" chicken 250
" cucumbers 246
" fowl (roast), a la mayonnaise 250
" lettuce 246
" mace'doine of cold vegetables 248
" new 250
" onion 249
" potato 249
Badishes au naturel 247
Tomatoes, dressed 251
EGGS.
Eggs a la Maitre d' Hotel 257
" boiled 257
" fried 257
" plate 258
" poached 259
" a la creme 260
" Scotch 260
" scrambled, No. 1 258
" " No. 2 259
" to keep 257
Omelette, baked (Margaret's) 261
" bread 263
gentlemen's savory (Margaret) 262
" how to make.. 261
" Namlat 262
BUTTEE, CHEESE, ETC.
Bonnyclabber 271
Butter, to color 270
" " cure 270
" "make 269
" "preserve 270
Cheese muff. 272
" cottage 272
" curd 271
" fromage 273
" Bama'kins 272
Welsh rarebit, No. 1 273
" " No. 2 273
YEAST.
Yeast bread, biscuit, etc 282
" potato without hops 277
" " without flour 277
" " pure 278
" (Mrs. Montgomery) 280
PAGE
Yeast "Whitesboro' 279
" Mrs. Prof. Yarmol's 280
BEE AD.
Bread (corn), baked 292
" " boiled 292
" graham 290
" graham, without fine flour 290
" " (pure potato yeast) 291
" Blue Island ., 287
" gossamer 303
" hermit's 291
" Italian 293
" (corn), steamed 293
" raised twice 285
" " three times 286
" salt-raising 289
" self-raising 2*9
" raised but once 283
" " " " (pure potato yeast) 284
" raisedwithpurepotatoyeast(threerisings) 287
" with potato 285
" puffs 293
Biscuit, bread 294
Baking-Powder 301
" (Maryland) 302
" (Mary Taney) 294
" dried (Mrs. Cobleigh) 299
" quick 294
" soda 300
Aunt Polly's good cake 305
Potato cakes 300
Graham fingers and thumbs 308
" gems 308
" popovers 304
Short cake 301
Graham wafers 310
Angel's food 303
MUFFINS.
Muffins (Kalamazoo) 312
" (Burlington) 313
" corn-meal and flour 322
" cream 314
" Dabney 314
" English water 313
" rice 315
" (Miss Boot's) 312
" simple and delicious 313
Puffs, breakfast 304
" Laplander ... 303
" nuns' 305
Bolls, Brentley 297
" excellent 296
" French 298
" fruit (Mrs. Underwood) 296
" flannel (Viney) 295
" (Geneva) 295
" graham 369
" ParkerHouse 299
Sally Lunn 308
12
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Whigs 307
Toast, cream 321
" dry 311
* " rye 311
Benjamin 310
Bruiss 310
Crackers o la Prezel 310
CORN BEE AD.
Corn cake (Carolina) 317
(Mrs. Uowles) 318
" crust (Alabama) 318
" cupslti 319
" drops , 319
" " plain 320
•' pone 320
" " withrice 320
" " " sour milk 321
" rolls, delicate 318
North Woods' doughboys « 321
GRIDDLE-CAKES, WAFFLES, ETC.
Cakes, bread 322
" buckwheat 323
" flannel 323
" hominy 324
" rice 324
" (Virginia) 325
Waffles, Barby's 310
" (Buffalo) 315
" raised 317
" without yeast or soda 316
RTJSK, ETC.
Bon Brae 30B
Rusk 30fi
Strawberry short-cake 325
Cracked wheat 327
Graham mush i 327
Hasty pudding.' 32fl
fried 327
Oatmeal porridge 325
CAKE.
Order of Cake-Ma"king 334
Cake, almond 348
" ■" pound 349
" apple (dried) 343
" aurora 344
" bread 335
" kaffee kuchen — 335
" chocolate (Hampton ) 354
(Miss Baker) 353
Clay 347
cocoanut 3fi2
" Nb.2 302
coffee 342
cream 301
357
&f
PAGB
Cake drops 345
" Election 330
" eclairs (chocolate) 355
" Edgewood birthday 351
" fruit 302
" golden 340
" Harrison 343
" jelly 357
" kisses (Geneva) 358
" lemon 349
Macaroons 358
Cake, mountain : 355
" (Mrs. Wells) 362
" orange 356
" plain, with currants 340
" pound (Mrs. Montgomery) 350
" " (Mrs. oSfegley, Hagerstown, Md.). 350
" little 350
" pork ,. 341
" Portugal 315
' Queens 347
" Eebecca's triumph 346
" Troy 340
" valley 349
" spice 346
" sponge (Maryland) 358
" sponge (Mrs. Bogart) 359
" sponge (Daisy's) 361
" " (Mrs. Jennison's) 360
" " white 359
" " Philadelphia 359
" wedding (Montgomery) 353
" white 341
COOKIES, GINGERBREAD, ETC.
Cookies, coasting 305
" crisp 365
rich 365
Doughnuts 336
" (Mrs. Boyd's) 337
Drops, cocoanut 363
Gingerbread (Mrs. Jennison's) 338
" (O'Leary's) 339
Little Hard : 367
Gingersnaps 366
" (Namlet) 367
" Oak Hill 300
Jumbles, (Mont Alto) 364
(Susan) , 364
Ollykoeks (Mrs. Graham's) 338
Wafers, cocoanut 363
" walnut 363
ICING.
Icing 371
" chocolate 371
(Philadelphia) 372
" (Kentucky) 371
Lemon cream 372
Orange-peel for gingersnaps 372
CONTENTS.
13
PAGE
To blanch almonds 372
To improve sponge cake 371
PASTRY.
Pic, apple, No. 1 379
No. 2 380
" blackberry 380
" custard 370
" currant , 380
" mince (Lochland) 381
" Mrs. D. S. Moore 382
" " (Mrs. Talman). 381
" peach 380
" squash 378
Pastry Angelica 370
" crumb 377
" Graham 377
" potato 377
" plainer 370
" puff 375
Paste made with drippings 376
Vol au vent 378
PUDDINGS BAKED IN PASTRY.
Pudding, amber 387
" apple, rich 391
"• " simpler 391
" pineapple (Hartford) 391
(Boston) 392
" cocoanut 393
" cream 393
" lemon 387
" " (Mra.B.) 388
" " (Mrs. Wm, Smith) 388
." orange 389
" " (Detroit) 389
" " Queen Charlotte 390
" potato (Mrs. B.) 392
" (Duddington) 393
Apples a la None 383
Banbury cakes 383
Bolster 410
Brother Jonathan 403
Charlotte, apple 407
" pie-plant 408
Croute mix abricots : . . 414
Dumplings, apple baked 407
" ,r boiled 400
college... 411
lemon 423
German puffs 421
Jenny Linds 422
Jim Crow 421
Pain Perdu 422
Pudding, batter, baked, delicate 402
" " boiled 401
" Beaulieu 417
" blackberry, baked 405
" blackberry steamed 404
" black eurrant, boiled 405
PAGE
Pudding bread, baked 396
" " (English), baked 397
" boiled 395
" No. 2 396
" " simplestofall 395
" Burnett 417
" cabinet 414
" " cold 415
" cocoanut 415
" Delmonico 418
" dried fruit 410
" driedpeach 409
" Eve's 413
" " plainer 414
" farina 403
" Indian, baked (without eggs) No. 2. . 399
" " boiled 390
" " Philadelphia 398
" plain 398
" Marlborough 416
" minute 404
" (Mrs. Potter) 412
" oatmeal 400
" paste 420
" plum (English) 412
" " E. W 411
" quince 408
" quiver (F.B. J.) 401
" rice, baked 394
" " boiled 395
" poor man's 394
" sponge 420
" tapioca 402
" tip-top 418
" transparent 416
" TrentonFalls 400
" Warrener's. 413
" whortleberry 406
" (Sister Jonathine)' 404
FRITTERS.
Fritters, apple ." 423
" coquettes 424
" it la Follie 425
" Indian 425
" potato 426
" souzens 424
PUDDING SAUCES.
Almond 435
Cream 434
Creamy 436
Golden 433"
Lemon 434
Maple 434
Wine (Hagerstown) 434
" (Maryland) 434
Without butter or cream , 435
Fairy butter 433
Caramel for custard 437
u
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Home syrup for buckwheat cakes 436
Maple syrup made from the sugar 436
Rexford sauce 435
BLANC MANGE, CUSTARD, ETC.
Ambrosia ( Hampton) 457
Apple me'ringue 456
Chocolate " 419
Arrowroot in a mould 451
Blancmange 441
" " Eugenie '. 442
" " farina 442
" " Oswego ; 443
" " sago 443
Cream, almond 449
" Bavarian 448
" beaten 455
" caramel 451
" chocolate 447
" fruit 448
" ginger 450
" Hamburg 452
" Italian 452
" lemon 453
" Bussian 447
" tapioca 452
" vanilla renverse'e 449
*' whipped 446
Chantilly cake : 457
Charlotte Busse 455
Clinton Place trifle 458
Croutdde of macaroons 460
Custard, almond » j 403
" baked 463
" boiled,No.l 461
" 2 462
" chocolate 462
Eglantine 448
Floating island, No. 1 464
" " 2 464
" " (fresh raspberries)., 464
Gelbe speise ' 445
Lemon cheese 454
Peaches a la ride 408
Omelette souffle'e 463
Bennet in wine 453
Bice a la maj-quise 444
" • in moulds 443
Ruby under the suow 459
Sheldina 457
Slip 454
Snowdrift : 458
Sweetheart 445
Jelly, calf s foot 465
" coffee 467
" LadyMary's 467
" lemon 465
*' No. 2 467
" orange 460
" Oriental 468
" strawberry 466
PAGE
Jelly wine f j>S
Macedoine of Fruit 468
Tapioca and apples 456
Tapioca and canned peaches jou
An exquisite dish for Easter 4a>
Green melon injelly 469
CEEAM AND WATEE ICES .
Directions for freezing 473
" " " without a freezer 473
Cream, caramel 475
" chocolate 476
coffee 476
diplomat 477
Tea ice cream 477
" lemon 474
(Mrs. Swift) 474
peach 477
" (Peterboro') 474
" pineapple snow 477
" strawberry ' 478
" " (Mrs. \V.) 478
with corn-starch 474
" " maizena 475
Strawberries /rappees 478
Tuttifrutti 487
Plum pudding glace' 459
Snow ice 480
Citron 478
Currant 479
Lemon 479
Orange 446
Pineapple 480
Strawberry • 479
Pistache nuts for ice-cream 480
Scoke or poke berry 1 480
FBESH FRUIT.
Ambrosia 482
Cherries 482
Currants 482
Fresh fruit, sugared 483
Peaches 482
Pineapple 481
Strawberries 481
Watermelon 481
Whortleberries 482
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRE-
SERVED.
Apples, sour, baked 488
" stewed for dinner 488
" sweet, baked 487
" fried for dinner 488
" coddled 489
" fortea 487
" jelly 504
" dried, sour with raspberries 490
CONTENTS.
15
PAGE
Apples stewed, with cloves 487
Bananas fried 4!)0
Blackberry, dried (Mrs. Burritt) ,. . . 495
sweetmeats 493
raspberry sweetmeats 496
Blackcaps 487
Candied fruit 508
Cherry sweetmeats 496
Crab-apple marmalade 497
sweetmeats 497
Cranberries, stewed 490
Currants, dried 495
" jelly 505
" without boiling the sugar 505
" with three quarters of a pound of
sugar 506
" sweetmeats 496
Figs, to freshen (Mrs. J. E Morse) 508
" "preserve 508
" tomato 507
Gooseberry sweetmeats 493
Grape jelly 506
" sweetmeats 494
Green " 500
Orange marmalade 499
" preserved 501
Peaches, baked 489
" (Mrs. B.) 498
" marmalade 498
" sweetmeats 498
Pears, baked 490
" Bartlett canned 491
Pear sweetmeats 492
" stewed 491
Pie-plant canned 493
for tea 493
wi I h orange-peel 492
Pine apple, Kitty's 501*
" Christmas 501
marmalade 502
Plums, dried 504
" sweetmeats 504
Quince, baked 489
" jelly 507
" and apple butter 503
" marmalade 503
" steamed 489
" sweetmeats 512
" " (Mrs. Allying) 502
Strawberry " 493
To cover jelly 507
QJ .Preserved Cherries 509
&fe*£&lU,Uisyud CANDY. M
/ Blacjt walnut (Bay City) 511
Chocolate caramels 512
" walnuts 513
Cream chocolates 512
Everton taffy 512
Maple chocolates 513
Mrs. Mr Williams' caramels 512
Morrisville candy 611
Soft " 511
DRINKS.
PAGE
Broma 519
Chocolate (Baker's) 518
(Cayuga) 518
" (Menier's) 518
Cocoa, cracked 518
Coffee, boiled 517
" Eureka 517
Tea 519
Tea, iced 520
Beer(Epp's) 520
" ginger 520
" pineapple 521
" root 520
Cider, for keeping, No. 1 521
" No. 2 522
Currant shrub 523
Lemonade 523
Raspberry vinegar 522
Strawberry acid 523
FOR INVALIDS.
Arrowroot Wane mange 538
Barley 539 ,.
Beef juice 537
" sandwich 537
" tea, No. 1 537
" " No. 2 538
Candle 541
Caie of invalids 529
Cough remedy (Mrs. Burwell ) 539
" " (Dr. Bertin, Paris) 540
" " 540
Cream toast 533
Crust coffee . 534
Corn " 534
Chicken broth 536
" cream 536
" jelly 536
Egg and milk 535
Egg nogg 535
Egg wine 535
Gruel, farina 532
" oatmeal 532
" (Dr. Hitchins) 531
" Indian (Mrs. Cowles) 532
Irish moss 538
Jelly in ice 539
Panada ,533
Pleasant drink in fever ' 534
Potato jelly 537
Quinsey 540
Soaked cracker 533
Syllabub 533
" porridge ; 538
Tapioca jelly \ 539
Toast water 534
Thickened milk (Bolton, N. Y.) 532
" " (Cambridge, Mass) 533'
Wine whey 535
Nursery receipts, Mrs Fisher 541
To stop bleeding of the nose 540
16
CONTENTS.
MISCELLANEOUS KECEIPTS.
PAGE
Autumn leaves, to preserve 557
Blacking, waterproof 555
Blankets, to wash 519
Borax solution for washing 549
Cement for sealing corks 553
Flour paste, to make 553
Flowers, to ke^p fresh 557
" preserve 556
" revive 557
Fruit spots, to take out , 549
Furniture, to hrighten 554
Glass, to remove paint 554
Hard water, to make soft 548
Honey, to strain 558
Lemons, to keep the rind and juice 558
Matting, to clean 554
Picture screens, to make 556
Pomatum, Mrs. Breck ^ 555
Cold cream 558
PAGE
Booms, to disinfeclr. 553
, " " clear of mosquitoes 5^3
Silver, to clean £5?
Sink, to purify 5"°
Starch, potato °^>
Steel, to take rust from *J™
To prevent calicoes from fading c"}
Soap, B. T. Babbitt 551
Soap, soft cold 552
" hard.No.l 552
" « "2 °53
" (Marcy ).".'.' .'.'.'..'.. 551
" soft, Geneva °2
To set a leach 550
Yiolet perfume *>;j5
Ho, foe the Picnic 563
Selections fob Dinners 503
ADDITIONAL EECEIPTS.
To clear Stock 5B9
Consomme1 569
Potageala Boyale 569
Frozen Sweet Potatoes 570
Cleaning Fluid 570
Cymlings, or Summer Squash, No. 2. 571
Monadnoc Pastry • 671
Bridget's Biscuit 572
Cold Cream. M. W. M 558
Preserved Cherries 609
Caramel Custard 464
Velvet Cakes 384
IN THE KITCHEN,
THE TABLE.
No silent educator in the household has higher rank than the table. Surrounded three
times a day by the family, who gather from their various callings and duties, eager for refresh-
ment of body and spirit, its impressions sink deep, and its influences for good or ill form no
mean part of the warp and woof of our lives. Its fresh damask, bright silver, glass, and china,
give beautiful lessons in neatness, order, and taste : its damask soiled, rumpled, and torn, its
silver dingy, its glass cloudy and china nicked, annoy and vex at first, and then instil their
lessons of carelessness and disorder.
An attractive, well-ordered table is an incentive to good manners ; and being a place
where one is inclined to linger, it tends to control the bad habit of fast eating. An uninviting,
disorderly table gives license to vulgar manners, and encourages that haste which has proved
so deleterious to the health of Americans. Should it not, therefore, be one of our highest
aims to bring our table to perfection in every particular?
To this end cleanliness, order, and taste must be most carefully observed. Beautiful
damask has no charm if soiled ; but be it ever so old, worn, and darned, if white and well-ironed,
it commands our respect. Even where no table-cloth can be afforded, the well-scoured pine
table is most welcome, and so beautiful in its whiteness that we almost persuade ourselves
it is better than damask. Silver has no attraction if dull and tarnished ; sticky pitcher and
teapot handles, streaked china, murky glass, the molasses-pitcher dotted with hints of its
contents, cruets with necks and stoppers diugy and thick with dried condiments, stray crumbs
of bread and spatters of gravy in the lumpy salt of the smeared salt-cellars, are all most repug-
nant. And if, moreover, one knows that a similar regime controls the. cooking for such a
table, though the rolls be ambrosia and the coffee nectar, they cannot tempt the appetite.
JBut the most thorough cleanliness will not atone for a lack of order. The table-cloth may be
clean and white, but unless well-ironed and laid straight, it is very unsatisfactory. Knives,
forks, and spoons must be in line, and plates must have strict reference to their vis-a-vis.
The china must be of one kind, and neither nicked nor cracked.
Then taste -must come in for its share. The selection of silver and china, glass and
damask, gives fine scope for its exercise. Let all be of beautiful design, the damask particularly,
and of as choice a quality as can be afforded. " Extravagant," say you.?. Then can you not
2
18 IN THE KITCHEN.
dress more simply; and as you purchase a rare painting for the refinement and cultivation of
your children, so furnish your table with this beautiful fabric, which is a s tudy in its delicate
tracery and artistic groupings ? A fern leaf, a branch of roses, or spray of ivy by your child's
plate may prove in later years to have been its first incentive to the study of art. In the
appointments of the table, very much depends on refined' taste. AVithout it, there may be
a stiff bouquet in the centre, with flowers fitted together like stones in a mosaic ; with it,
there would be a loose, graceful arrangement of flowers, with drooping ferns, leaves, and
tendrils. Evidences of taste in the table are particularly acceptable to us, most deservedly
so, and always worthy of cultivation, as they take from the grossness of indulgence in mere
animal appetite. Let us give, then, to these three graces of the table — cleanliness, order, and
taste — the importance which so justly belongs to them ; let us provide an abundant supply of
wholesome food, well cooked and well served, and the hours spent at the table shall aid in our
highest development.
THE BREAKFAST-TABLE.
First see that it stands in the centre of the room, and perfectly straight; for no matter how
well arranged, if it stand but little out of line, everything looks awry. Then put on the
cover of Canton flannel ; this preserves the table-cloth, gives it a whiter shade, and deadens
sound. Have an eyelet-hole in each corner to fasten over corresponding knobs under the ledge
of the table. This cover may be made long enough to admit another leaf in the table, in
which case it can have two sets of eyelet-holes. By this means it is held in positiori, and can-
not be displaced by the table-cloth, which conies next in order. In laying this, be careful to
have the point where the folds cross in the centre, lie exactly on the centre of the table. Then
arrange the mats; they are disliked by the most fastidious, and where the Canton flannel cover
is used, there is less necessity for them. Then place the tumblers and napkins at the right hand
of the places intended for the plates. Then arrange the silver and knives, makingthis square for
every plate, viz. dessert-spoon for fruit or oatmeal at the right hand, fork at the left, and knife,
with:the back of the blade towards the plate, across the top. Every large spoon should lie with
the'handlc towards the right hand of the person sitting before it. Always place the silver right
side up: the inside of a spoon is much more beautiful than the outside, and the fork gains noth-
ing by being turned over. Salt-cellars go across the corners, with the spoons by not in them;
small castors may also be placed at the corner. Then arrange the cups and saucers, sugar, etc.,
on a waiter or not, as you please, but by all means at the end of the table, in preference to the
side. The head and foot of the table are for the lady and gentleman of the house. This old-
established rule is sometimes waived for convenience' sake, but the change detracts greatly
from the elegant appearauce of the table. If a milk, cream, or molasses pitcher be used, it
should stand at "the corner with the spout towards the centre of the table. The plates may now
THE TABLE.
19
be put around, unless they require warming, in which case they should remain in the heater
until breakfast is ready. The butter may stand either in the centre or at the corner. A con-
venient way, for a table of eight or ten, is to have four small, round dishes of china or ground
glass for the butter, which may be in balls, screws, or pats, at each corner of the table. When
you have it in the centre and want a larger quantity, a piece of regular form, cut from the end of
a roll of butter, looks very well, or a square piece cut from a crock or firkin. When difficult to
cut from the crock, try this method : Take a large iron spoon, sink the bowl of it nearly its depth
in the butter; then turn it, forming a circle about three inches across, draw it out, and lay the
butter on the plate with the smoothest part up ; it will be rather pointed at one end, and will look
like a piece of very smoothly frozen ice-cream. This fnode is greatly preferred by some to the
screws, etc., which require so much handling. In clearing the table, send out the breakfast first,
then put away all the glass, silver, and china that may not have been used. If there are bits of
butter on the plates, free from specks, let them be put away carefully, for greasing tins. As
butter is used with the knife only, and the knife never touches the lips, this piece of economy
need shock no one. Put the forks, spoons, and plated knives in a pitcher half full of hot water,
and do not let the water reach the knife-handles, as it discolors and cracks them. Then scrape
the plates very nicely and remove all to the tray where they are to be washed. Brush the
crumbs from the table-cloth, which must never be shaken. If there are any spots, wash them
when the hot water is brought in. Lay a partly soiled napkin under the spot, and with the
clean dish-mop from the hot soap-suds wash it entirely out. Then raise the table-cloth, though
the spots are still damp, by the ceutre crease, and fold it most scrupulously according to the
lines made in ironing. This done, lay it on a shelf or table under some heavy weight. Have
a marble slab prepared for this purpose, the size of your largest table-cloth when folded, and
have handles put in the ends. With this care, a "table-cloth for a family of four or five will last
a week, and then look almost too nice to go to the wash. The Canton flannel may remain on
the table for dinner, the table-cover being placed over it.
The breakfast things arc now to be washed. In many families this is done by the mother
or daughter, and such an arrangement has great advantages. It is an open door to the rest of
the housekeeping; it necessarily takes you to the store-room, and thence, naturally, to the
kitchen and cellar. The various jars and boxes, and the larder, are thus kept under your own
supervision. Your neatness, too, in this work, is a good example to your waitress, and what
she sees you exact from yourself she is more willing you should exact from her. I have seen
this done in a very attractive way by a stately lady, at the head of her own table. When
the breakfast was sent out, the maid brought her the hot water in a well-scoured cedar tub,
with its bright brass bands, a dish-mop and clean towels ; the glass, silver, and china were
then collected about her; and as she sat there making them clean again, handling tenderly the
quaint old pieces, and chatting with us all, we thought it almost the best part of the entertain-
ment. The water must be very hot if you expect anything to look well, and the towels must
be soft and clean. Use a dish-mop and a ■' soap-saver." This is a perforated tin box, three or
20 1ST THE KITCHEN".
four inches square, and one and a half inches deep, in which you put the soap; it has a long
handle, by which you shake it in the water, until you have a good suds. It is the invention of
a Buffalo gentleman in behalf of his wife, who complained of being obliged to take the soap in
her hand. A Boston lady invented a box for the same purpose, which being oval has the ad-
vantage of no corners. Two towels a week are sufficient for a table of four, provided you have
them washed every other morning. Have six of these towels, and use them in succession, so
the two used the first week will rest for the next two weeks. The waitress requires three
towels a week for the dinner and tea things, and another for globes and lamp chimneys.
"When everything is in readiness, wash the tumblers; put them sideways in the water,
and turn them quickly; this prevents their breaking, as the outside and inside are heated
together. Wipe them from the water without draining, and rub them till clear and bright. If
milk has been in a tumbler, rinse it first with tepid water, as intense heat drives the milk per-
manently into the glass, and trying your best, you can never make it clear again, nor can you
ever get rid of such a glass, for, like the cracked pitcher and nicked plate, it has a charmed life.
" After the glass come the coffee-pot and cream-piteher, which need great care; rinse both with
a little water from the knife and fork pitcher. Use a brush in washing them, and then wipe
and rub them briskly and perseveringly with a right good will. You will find the exercise
equal to many in the " Swedish Movement Cure," with the satisfaction of bright silver as ready
payment. Then come spoons and forks, which also need a world of rubbing; but their beauty
and brightness will recompense you. Marion Ilarland's advice, to have a cake of indexical
silver soap at hand, is admirable; keep it in a cup with a bit of flannel, and use it wherever
there is a spot on the silver. It is well to rub the whole piece, and then wash, wipe, and polish
with chamois. Put everything away in perfect order. The dish-mop should be wrung very
dry, shaken out, and hung by the soap-box. Sift the salt on a bit of white paper through a fine
sifter; then, holding the paper in the form of a trough, pour its contents gently into the cen-
tre of the salt-cellar, leaving it in the form of a cone. The effect is very pretty, particularly in
a glass salt-cellar. The fine sugar should also be sifted. For this purpose keep a wire sieve,
four inches across, in the sugar-box. As to the small salt-cellars, known as " individual salts,"
there is not a single word to be said in their favor. In hotels they are particularly offensive,
where we take off the top only to find suspicious lumps beneath. A friend at my elbow says,
" Oh, do speak of the dreadful habit of helping one's self to salt on the table-cloth, then tak-
ing it up on the blade of the knife, beating a light tattoo over the contents of the plate, and fin-
ishing with a decided whack! "
THE DINNER-TABLE.
In changing table-cloths during the week, contrive to let the fresh one be for the dinner-
table. Place a large napkin over each end of the table to protect the table-cloth during the
carving; they must be removed when the crumbs are brushed. For dinner company, many
THE TABLE. 21
families prefer using two table-cloths, having the upper one removed after the first courses,
thereby dispensing with brushing the crumbs, and generally securing a clean cloth for the des-
sert. Put on the mats and glasses, and, as for breakfast, make a square for every plate with
the knife, fork, and soup-spoon. When there are many at the table it is well to have the tum-
blers supplied with ice and filled with water just before the soup is brought in, or better still,
to have ice in the tumblers and a earaffe (water-decanter) at every plate. The bread, which for
dinner should be two inches thick, and cut in strips two inches wide, may bo placed in the
folds of the fresh napkin on the plate. On the best appointed tables, small plates for peas,
corn, tomatoes, cold slaw, etc., find no- place. If disagreeable to eat these vegetables with meat,
let the dinner-plate be changed for one of the same size. In changing the plate for salad,
never substitute a breakfast for a dinner plate. If raw oysters are to be a part of the dinner,
they should be the first course ; select a small kind, serve them on the half shell, five or six on
a plate, with a bit of fresh lemon in the centre. The soup is helped by the lady. The rule is,
one ladleful and but one helping. An American Chesterfield being asked to take a second plate
of soup, replied, " Not to-day." At the end of this course the soup-plates are first removed,
then the tureen. In handing plates, the servant should always go to the left side with the
plate on a small waiter. It is now, however, becoming customary for the servant to dispense
with the waiter, take the soup-plate in the hand, and put it in its place from the right side.
With this mode, white cotton gloves are desirable, and for formal dinners they are generally
used even with the tray. Plates should always be removed from the right side, and vegetable
dishes should be taken from the same side, otherwise your face is exposed to the servant's
elbow. Pish follows soup and is also helped by the lady. With it, only potatoes and cucum-
bers are served. Boiled ham, too, belongs at her end of the table; a convenient way of serving
it is to lay six or eight slices on a dinner-plate, with a silver fork, and send it around the
table. Well sharpened knives are indispensable to the comfort of this meal.
In some households there is an arrangement much more business-like than beautiful, and
attended with more dispatch than elegance. It is flanking the beef and roast duck with the
vegetables of the season, to be served by the gentleman of the house. He gives to every one
a portion of all, and deluges the whole with gravy. A hard post, indeed, where the family is
large ; but the poor man sustains himself with the thought that it saves time. Yes, it does, and
that is its chief objection, for time is the very thing we require at the table, — time to talk,
laugh, and be merry. Por a simple dinner of one kind of meat and three vegetables, give the
gentleman the meat, the lady the potatoes, and place the other dishes each side the table in
line with the centre, leaving the centre for a small castor, butter, pickles, or what is still bet-
ter, flowers ; if the latter, small dishes may stand at the corners of the table. This arrange-
ment gives the table a better appearance. When the dinner-table is set, arrange the china and
silver for the different courses on the side-table. If the spoons are required for the vegetables,
have a pitcher of hot soap-suds, the dish-mop, and a clean towel just within your pantry door,
where they can quickly be washed and wiped.
22 IX THE KITCHEN.
In clearing the table for dessert, the rule should be to remove first the most unsightly
things: plates, of course, stand at the head of this list. The plates of host and hostess should
remain until all the others have been taken, so that no guest may feel hurried. The custom of
taking the spoons from the vegetable dishes while they are still on the table is very objection-
able : the particles and drops adhering to them are liable to fall ; the dishes do not look well
without them; and it is, moreover, an unseemly introduction of work belonging to the pantry.
Let the mats be the last things removed from the table. Nothing should remain but the tum-
blers. Brush or scrape the crumbs, and before every person place a plate on wliich lie a knife,
fork, and spoon ; then arrange the large spoons wherever they are required. In .putting on
the dessert, begin with the least important dishes. Finger-glasses are used for the last course.
Place them, on the front plates, the doylies lying between the plate and glass, and fill them
about one third with cold water. They are useful as well as highly ornamental to the dessert-
table, are quite indispensable to an elegant dinner, and in many families are in daily use.
They should be used, however, as quietly and unobtrusively as possible. Brillat Savarin, in his
" Physiologie du Gout,'' speaks of them in connection with the small goblet of water, which is
sometimes placed in them, as " equally useless, indecent, and disgusting : useless, for among
all those who know how to eat, the mouth remains clean to the end of the repast; as to the
hands, one should know how to use them without soiling them; indecent, for it is a generally
recognized principle that every ablution should be hidden in the privacy of the toilette." He
brings the goblet under the head of" disgusting,' picturing the offensiveness of its use in most
graphic language.
Waiting should be as noiseless as possible. The voice of the servant should never be
heard ; if necessary, a low tone to the lady is admissible. Kb reproof should be given a servant
at table, and no instructions that can possibly "be avoided. Full directions before every meal
should be given to an inexperienced servant. The foreign mode of serving dinner is beautiful,
and has great advantages over our way. The table is handsomely set with glass and silver,
fruit and flowers. The first course is soup, helped from the side-table and brought to you;
then comes fish, already carved that you may help yourself with ease. Then there is a, filet de.
Iceuf, part of which is carved, and the whole garnished with sliced potatoes, browned ; then
a cauliflower or maccaroni ; after that, roast fowl and sweetmeats ; then a pudding, followed
by ices and coffee, fruit being the last course.
The little delay between the courses gives time for pleasant conversation, and would be
admirable here in preventing our fast eating. To be sure, one may do his utmost in that way
for three minutes, but is then obliged to rest the next ten. This custom saves the cook that
last, severe pressure of serving from four to eight hot dishes at the same time.
No well-ordered house has noisy servants. The housekeeping in every department should
move like perfect, well-oiled machinery, with invisible wheels. Shrieks of laughter from the
kitchen, singing and calling through the halls, stamp a house at once as belonging to the
vulgar and uncultivated. Let the comforts and luxuries provided for your family and guests
THE TABLE.
23
come to them as by magic ; let them hear no preparatory sounds, and see no sights that shall
take from the freshness of the entertainment.
In this country of untrained servants, most ladies have but little pleasure in giving dinners,
as there must be a constant undercurrent of anxiety about the table and the service. This
anxiety begins with the soup and ends only with the coffee. When the tureen-cover is raised,
the fear comes that the soup may be scorched. But no ; the lady finds it delicious, and this
gives her so much confidence in all that is to follow that her spirits rise. She ventures to chat
a little with the gentleman at her right, just returned, perhaps, from Switzerland. She is
charmed with his descriptions, and is already climbing the mountain and breathing its
invigorating air, when her eyes fall on the roast turkey with wings and legs thrust heavenward.
The lady beats a-hasty retreat from the Rigi, flushed with mortification over that wretched
fowl, with its breast-bone, as she now sees, burned to a crisp. Bridget, to whom she had given
" line upon line and precept upon precept," loses her wits, and half the time presents the
bread and vegetables at the right side, attracting attention by little pokes in the back. She
hands the tomatoes without a spoon. Iu putting on the dessert she begins with the ice-cream,
the sight of which she seems to think sufficient, for she comes to a dead stop, ignoring plates
and spoons and all the minor dishes. There stands the pillar of ice ; but your wrath, so far from
being cooled by it, only bubbles and boils the more. Yet all the time you must look calm
and unruffled, and make yourself as agreeable as possible. No one must know that you are
tried, for you have invited your friends to give them pleasure and not to tax their sympathy.
What we shall do for want of intelligent, well-trained, respectable, and respectful servants,
is a question discussed far and near ; but the solution is every day farther and the trouble
nearer. We must rejoice, however, that house-work is more healthful than fancy work ; that
making beds, sweeping, and dusting give strength, and that kneading bread, making biscuit,
and canning fruit " brush the cobwebs from our brains."
THE TEA-TABLE.
This has become in our cities, save for Sunday evening, a thing of the past; and this for-
lorn condition of things crops out here and there in the country too. It is one of the serious
results of dining late. City gentlemen, whose homes and offices are miles apart, can
remedy this difficulty only by dining instead of lunching down town, and going home at night
to tea. Many, iu the country, with whom the late dinner is not a permanent arrangement,
choose it for the short winter days; they have a late breakfast and a four-o'clock dinner, dis-
pensing with lunch and tea. But physicians tell us that the heaviest meal of the day should
24
IN THE KITCHEN.
come at noon, when the digestive organs have more vigor than at night. In departing from
their counsel we lose, perhaps, the most pleasant social gathering of the day. Business duties
being accomplished, there is none of the hurry of the breakfast-table; and the rest, so charm-
ing when contrasted with the anxieties, formalities, and etiquette of the dinner-table, comes,
to the mother especially, as a sweet benediction. No soup-tureen looms up before her, or
heavy, smoking joints. These have given place to fragrant tea, cold tongue, thinly sliced, and
garnished with curled parsley, light and snowy biscuit, sweet, golden butter, and honey in the
comb. But it is setting the table which concerns us just now, rather than the dishes which
belong to it, — although in this connection it may bo well to speak of certain things which we
sometimes find quite misplaced; for instance, pickles, cake, and pie for breakfast, and tea on the
dinner-table. The rule which forbids this is not arbitrary, but full of reason: it secures to
each meal its own distinctive features. Eating pickles for breakfast, we find them less appetiz-
ing for dinner; eating pie for breakfast, we cannot relish it as a dessert; and eating cake at
that early hour makes it but an old story by tea-time.
Set the table without a cover. This is a privilege that neither the breakfast nor dinner
table can claim, and should therefore bo cherished as particularly distinguishing the tea-table.
Of a summer's evening the effect is cool and refreshing, and in the winter its polished surface
is rich with the reflection of lights and silver. On some tea-tables we find a delicately cro-
cheted mat for every plate, the tongue, biscuit, etc., placed on white mats of heavier make, and
the tea-service arranged on one large oval mat. Arrange the knife, fork, and spoon as for
breakfast, using a smaller-sized plate. Use fringed napkins, one lying on every plate. Let the
cups be of thin china and placed before the lady of the house, the relish of fish or cold meat
before the gentleman, flowers in the centre, fruit and biscuit each side, the cake-basket between
the flowers and " tea-things, " and the butter on the other side of the flowers.
There arc some mothers who give their daughters no instruction in household matters, pre-
ferring that their time should be spent in study, recreation, and exercise in the open air. They
say, " Poor things! they will probably marry and have houses of their own to look after, and
that will be soon enough to begin to dig and delve ; they are bright, and can easily learn to bake,
boil, and fry when the necessity comes." These mothers, for the sake of their daughters, call
for a book of most minute directions in all things pertaining to housekeeping. In specifying,
they say , " Tell them exactly how to make fires." This I most gladly do, for making fires in
fire-place, stove, grate, and range has been, from my childhood, an unfailing pleasure. Let us
begin with
THE FIRE IN THE KITCHEH.
In making the kitchen fire, either in a range or coal stove, first draw out the dust-damper,
which prevents the ashes from flying over the room. Free the grate entirely from ashes; •■■
THE TABLE. 25
light layer of partly burned coal may remain, but shake it about with an old broom-brush until
no ashes adhere to it. Brush the tops of the ovens and all the inside iron within reach. Then
put in half a dozen loosely-twisted rolls of dry paper, across the grate, about an inch apart ;
over these, running lengthwise, strips of light kindling-wood, and over these, in the opposite
direction, sticks of hard, dry " split wood," from two to three inches thick; then a layer of coal.
Shavings may be used instead of paper. Replace the covers, take up the ashes, sweep the brick-
work overhead and at the sides, and brush thoroughly the entire outside of the range. When
all is clean and bright, light the fire, push in the dust-damper, and see that the dampers which
affect the draught are pulled out. When you wish to heat the oven these dampers are pushed
in, but the fire should be well burning before that is attempted. In a short time the wood will
be burned outand.the coal ignited; then add more coal, but never let it come above the brick
lining, and be careful that no pieces lodge on the ovens. Never let the range become red-hot,
as such intense heat warps and destroys the iron. The best thing I know of for lifting covers
is an iron of the usual form, with a tin handle thickly lined with plaster of Paris; it rarely
becomes too warm for the hand.
Every Saturday the slides under the oven should be' opened and all the ashes taken out.
With a little care the range may always be perfectly clean. Do not let the kettles boil over or
spatter. Be sure that they are not too full to allow room for boiling. Be satisfied with moder-
ate boiling; it ensures equal speed in cooking, and better results. Keep all the kettles covered,
and thus save the steam to aid in the cooking, rather than allow it to cover your kitchen walls.
But we must remember that the fire which " makes the pot boil " is not the only one
necessary to the comfort of the house. Let us take next
THE FIRE IN THE GRATE.
Remove and clean thoroughly the hearth and fender, rubbing the plated rod with a
chamois ; then leave them out of reach of the dust until the fire is lighted. Clear the grate of
ashes and coal, and take them away before the fresh coal is put on ; otherwise there will be a
coating of dust to check the bright blaze and take from the beauty of the fire.
Those grates with a throat leading to the cellar-floor save much dust and a vast deal of
hard labor. Such a throat can be easily made for any grate. It is of brick, and, built against
the wall, requires but three sides. At the lower extremity on one side is an opening, from
which the ashes are taken when necessary ; it is wide enough to admit a large shovel, and is
closed with a sheet-iron slide. Where there is room in the Cellar, the throat may be twenty-
one inches deep and thirty-three inches wide. Sweep as high up in the chimney as the brush
will reach, and down the back and sides of the grate. Clean the bars thoroughly, and polish
them with a stove blacking-brush. The " large egg " coal makes the most beautiful and
lasting hard coal fire. If this is used, arrange some of the largest pieces in two or three rows
26
IN" THE KITCHEN.
along the front of the grate ; back of this use the paper or shavings, the light wood, hard
wood, and coal, as in the range. Put on the coal with the hand to prevent disarranging the
wood, to leave more regular spaces for the draught, and to make a symmetrical fire. Then
with a damp cloth wipe the iron about the grate and the mantel-piece, if of marble ; wasli the
marble hearth, and replace the grate-hearth, then light the fire underneath. A clear, well-
made coal fire is wonderfully attractive, appreciated by all, and fully compensates for the care,
it requires.
A SOFT COAL FIBE
May be made in very much the same way. As it ignites more easily than hard coal, it can be
made with paper or shavings and light wood.
WOOD FIRES.
A wood fire in a stove must be arranged to light at the draught, whether it be at the side
or end. And now comes the open wood fire. But it is so full of beauty, it so awakens
sentiment and reverie, bringing back to us the past and opening vistas into the future, it so
adapts itself to all our moods, that it is like a living soul, and directions for " making " it seem
most presumptuous.
John "Ware says, ""Without the open fire in the house, there is no centre of sympathy.
When the fire went out upon the hearth, there went with it one of the strongest and healthiest
influences of home." C. D. "Warner says, " I hope for the rekindling of wood fires, and a
return of the beautiful homo-light from them." H. H. writes of the " blessed old black woman,"
who, standing before her fire, exclaimed, " Bless yer, honey, yer's got a wood fire. I 'se allers
said that if yer 's got a wood fire, yer 's got meat an' drink an' clo'es.'7 Of course, Aunt Chloe
meant spiritual food and raiment, but her words present the material side of our treasure ;
and quickly, before the scene shifts, we will venture to consider the making of the wood fire.
Begin by taking up nearly all the ashes, leaving only a thin coating which the wood will
almost conceal, a slight covering to receive the first light coals. Sweep the back and sides of
the fire-place and as far into the mouth of the chimney as the brush will reach. Sweep the
hearth and polish the andirons, and be careful to place them straight and at equal distances from
the sides of the fire-place. Lay three sticks across the andirons, an inch apart ; the front and
back sticks should be about three times the size of any others used for the fire. Across the small
centre-stick place a row of slightly-twisted papers, the ends loosened, and going down through
the opening each side oSthe stick, that they may be reached with a match from below. Across
the papers, lengthwise, lay kindling-wood ' ' split fine," and across these, in reversed order, small
THE TABLE. 27
sticks of hard wood ; above these, a layer of three sticks, the size of the centre lower one and
lying the same way. In all these layers do not fail to leave spaces for the draught. On the
top, there may be two or three more of the same sized sticks, laid diagonally. When the
arrangement is complete, wash the hearth arfd light the Areas directed.
Hickory is considered best for an open fire, but any wood that is hard and dry will serve
to keep bright this altar fire, this priceless blessing, to which every heart yields an involuntary
offering of joy and gratitude. In " covering up " the remains of a wood fire at night, draw out
the andirons, clear a place in the ashes, lay in all the coals and brands, and cover with ashes as
closely as possible
In the cellar keep the two kinds of ashes apart. Wood ashes are often useful in the house,
and always command a good price in market. Over the bin for coal ashes have a very coarse
wire sieve ; empty the ashes in this, and with an old broom move them to and fro, to clear
the coal, which will then do to reburn, a little at a time, — a " top dressing" for a bright fire in
the kitchen range.
UTENSILS
NECESSARY IN THE KITCHEN OF A SMALL FAMILY.
WOODEN WARE.
One bread-board.
" rolling-pin.
" small spoon for stirring pudding-sauce.
Two large spoons.
One potato-pounder.
" lemon-squeezer.
" wash-board.
TIN WAR&
One boiler for clothes, holding six gallons.
" boiler for boiling a ham.
" bread-pan, holding five or six quarts.
" deep pan, for preserving and canning fruits.
Four milk-pans.
Two dish-pans.
" two-quart basins.
" one-pint basins.
" two-quart covered tin pails.
28 IN THE KITCHEN.
One four-quart covered tin pail.
Two tin-lined saucepans with covers, holding four quarts each, for boiling potatoes, cab-
bages, etc.
Two tin-lined saucepans with covers, holding* two quarts each, for vegetables that do not
require much room, like okra, rice, and tomatoes.
Two cups with handles.
" pint moulds, for rice, blanc-mange, etc.
Four half-pint moulds.
One skimmer with handle.
Two dippers of different size.
" funnels, one for jugs and one for cruets.
One quart measure.
" pint measure.
Half-pint measure.
One gill measure.
If possible, get these measures broad and low, instead of high and slender, as they are
much more easily kept clean.
Three scoops of different size.
Four bread-pans for baking. The smallest make the best-sized loaves, and will do for
cake also.
Four jelly-cake pans.
" round and two long pie-pans.
One coffee-pot.
" colander.
" large bread-grater.
" small nutmeg-grater.
Two wire-sieves, one twelve inches across, and one four inches.
One wire cloth sieve, for sifting salt.
" small hair sieve, for straining jelly.
" frying-basket.
Two egg-beaters.
One apple-corer.
" cake-turner.
" spice-box.
" pepper-box.
" cake-cutter.
"• potato-cutter.
" dozeu muffin-rings.
" soap-shak«r.
UTENSILS. 29
IRON WARE.
One copper saucepan.
" pair of scales.
'• pot, holding two gallons, with steatner to fit.
" pot, holding three gallons, with close-fitting cover, for soup.
" preserving-kettle.
" tea-kettle.
'' fish-kettle.
" large frying-pan.
" small frying-pan.
Two sheet-iron dripping-pans of different sizes.
" sets of gem-pans.
" • spoons with long handles.
" spoons with handles of moderate length.
" spoons with wooden handles.
One griddle.
lt gridiron.
" waffle-iron.
" toasting-rack.
" large meat-fork.
" jagging-iron.
" can-opener.
EARTHEN AND STONE WARE.
Two crocks, holding one gallon each.
" crocks, holding two quarts.
One bean-pot.
" bowl holding six quarts.
" " holding four quarts.
" " holding two quarts.
" " holding three quarts.
Two holding one pint each.
One nest of six baking-dishes, different sizes.
There are natural cooks as well as natural musicians, and there is a charm in both *that
can never he reached by art. The delicate taste that decides whether there shall be a grain
more of this or that in the seasoning of a soup, tha eye that discerns, as by intuition, whether
30 XN THE KITCHEN.
the gravy is the proper thickness, the rolls just light enough for the oven, and the jelly of
perfect shade and stiffness, are like an exquisite ear, beautiful taste, and graceful touch in music.
They are rare gifts, however, and the majority of those who would excel in either art must
accept the necessity of scales and measures. For exactness of proportions it is safer to weigh
solids and measure fluids ; to weigh even by ounces and half ounces, and to measure even by
gills and half gills. Tea-cups and tablespoons, dessert and tea spoons vary in size, and it is,
moreover, difficult to know how closely the butter, flour, or brown sugar may lie in them. If
a receipt says " heaping " it is very indefinite, as a teaspoon may be heaped from one third to
double its even quantity ; and the " scant cup of butter " may have an easy range, varying in
weight from half an ounce to an ounce and a half. It seems impossible, however, to avoid
using a tablespoon and teaspoon as measures, — a tablespoonful of flour being less than half
an ounce, and a tea spoonful of the same still more difficult to Weigh. Many cooking-spoons
hold very much more than tablespoons, and cannot be used for this purpose. The true table-
spoon measure is one eighth of a gill, and the teaspoon used in these receipts holds one third
of a tablespoonful. No rule is given in which the measure is heaped. In many cases the word
even precedes the measure, but it is simply for the safety of those who may not have read this
explanation. But with all this exactness in measuring and weighing, it must be remembered
that good ingredients are indispensable to success ; the best cooking cannot make a good dish
of a joint of meat too recently killed or too long hung, nor a palatable omelette from eggs that
are not perfectly fresh ; nor with the utmost skill can good bread be made from poor flour,
nor good cake with any other than sweet butter. -
4 tablespoons = £ gill. 2 pints = 1 quart. 2 gallons = 1 peck.
8 tablespoons = 1 gill. 4 quarts = 1 gallon. 4 gallons = \ bushel.
2 gills = \ pint. \ gallon = \ ^eck. 8 gallons = 1 busheL
4 gills = 1 pint. 1 gallon = \ peck.
A common-sized tumbler holds half a pint.
A common-sized wineglass holds half a gill.
1 quart of sifted flour = 1 pound.
1 quart of corn-meal = 1 pound, 2 ounces.
1 quart of closely-packed butter = 2 pounds.
X quart of powdered sugar = 1 pound, 7 ounces.
1 quart of granulated sugar = 1 pound, 9 ounces.
A bit of butter the size of an egg weighs about two ounces.
soup. 31
SOUP.
As stock is the essential part of most soups, it comes first in order.
Use the most indifferent parts of beef, veal, mutton, and lamb, such as the shin of beef,
knuckle of veal, neck and breast of mutton and lamb, — any part, which from its toughness or
unsightly appearance is not desirable for the table. Of poultry, take that which is too old or
tough for roasting or boiling. Choice pieces of meat and tender fowls are objectionable simply
because they are too good. Cut the meat in bits and crush the bones with the back of the
cleaver. Professor Blot says, " There must not be more than two ounces of bone to a pound
of meat, the less bone the better." We see very fine soups, however, made from beef-shins,
where the weight of the bone equals and sometimes exceeds that of the beef. Put all in
the kettle, allowing a quart of cold water to every pound; use less water if you want it very
rich. Cold water absorbs the flavor and nutriment of the meat ; and chemists tell us that
some of its most important properties are soluble in cold water only. Let the water heat very
slowly. As it boils, a scum will rise, which must be at once removed, lest it return in particles
through the liquid, making it necessary to strain the whole through a cloth. After a thorough
skimming, keep the pot closely covered, and simmer or boil slowly from five to eight hours.
Then put it aside to cool, that the fat may congeal on the surface, and so be easily removed.
On this account stock should always be made the day before it is wanted. In cold weather it
is well to make enough at one time to last several days.
It is by no means necessary to have uncooked meat for stock. Fragments of cold, roast
or boiled joints, bits of beef-steak, and necks and bones of fowls, and the feet, are all excellent.
Where a family requires slock soup but three times during the week, no fresh meat need be
furnished for that purpose.
From stock an almost endless variety of soups maybe made, — carrot, onion,, bean, pea,
tomato; or okra, or many of these vegetables may be used together ; either rice, vermicelli, or
macaroni may be used with stock alone. All vegetables for soup must be boiled soft before
being added to the stock, but should then boil slowly for half an hour, and longer if they are
to thicken the soup. Worcestershire and Chili sauce are both very nice in soup, also all the
catsups, but these should be used very cautiously. Be careful in the use of pepper and salt,
which have spoiled so many good soups : remember that they are easily added but cannot be
taken away. For browning soups, fry the onions that are used, and stick a few cloves in the
meat, or use a little browned flour or caromel. To first brown the meat with a little butter
in the bottom of the soup-kettle, gives the soup a fine flavor and heightens the color.
32
IN" THE KITCHEN".
For preparing stock, " digesters " are admirable, being so thick as greatly to lessen the
danger of burning, and so made as to retain the most volatile parts of the meat. After boiling
in a " digester " several hours, you will find the liquid but little reduced. They are, however,
heavy, very expensive, and not to be found' in 6ur country towns. As a good substitute,
therefore, select an ordinary iron pot, holding not less than six or eight quarts ; have a tin
cover made for it, the inside rim fitting closely iuside the kettle, with a hole one sixteenth of
an inch in diameter in the cover, to prevent the steam from forcing it up. Allow a quart of
soup for four persons, For making soup quickly, chop the meat and crush the bone.
NANTUCKET SOUP.
Half a pint of codfish, picked fine.
Two quarts of water.
One quart of milk.
Three ounces of butter.
One ounce of flour.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Three eggs.
Boil the codfish slowly in the water for fifteen or twenty minutes,
soften the butter with a little of the boiling water, and mix it until
smooth with the flour and pepper. Put it in the soup, and after boil-
ing a minute or two, add the milk. "When it boils again stir in the
beaten eggs, and serve, with bread dice strewn over the top. (See page
610
To open clams, wash them perfectly clean and lay them in a drip-
ping-pan in the oven.
MRS. DR. BAYARD'S CLAM SOUP.
Put thirty hard clams in a pot with two quarts of water ; boil two
hours ; then take them out, chop fine, and return them to the pot with
SOUP.
33
one dozen pepper-corns and a small shred of mace, and boil an hour.
Rub a piece of butter, the size of a pullet's egg, with two tablespoon-
fuls of flour; boil a pint of milk, and dissolve the buttered flour in it,
and stir until smooth. Have this ready, and when the clams have been
boiled the three hours, strain the soup into the tureeL., and stir in the
thickened milk. Then serve immediately.
MARY'S CLAM SOUP.
Fifty clams.
One quart and two gills of milk.
One gill of rich cream.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Boil the clams twenty minutes in their own liquor; chop them very
fine; mix the flour smooth in a little of the milk; add the rest of the
milk, and pour it in the kettle with the clams. Let it boil a few min-
utes to cook the flour, then add the cream, pepper, and salt, and serve.
MRS. BIDDLE'S CLAM SOUP.
Pour two quarts of cold water over a small knuckle of veal on
which there is about a pound of meat; open fifty clams according to the
above directions, and add one pint of the liquor to the veal; boil until
it has been thoroughly skimmed, then throw in a few sprigs of sweet
herbs tied in a bit of muslin, cover closely, and let it simmer for nearly
three hours; then add the clams chopped fine, and two tablespoonfuls
of browned flour and two of white flour mixed smooth with one ounce
of butter and a little of the soup; season with half a teaspoonful of
34 IX TIIE KITCHEN.
salt and the same of pepper; let it simmer twenty-five minutes; then
remove the knuckle and the herbs and serve the soup very hot. If
cloves and mace are liked, put them in the muslin with the sweet herbs.
OYSTER SOUP.
Two quarts of oysters.
Three pints of new milk.
Three ounces of butter.
One and a half ounces of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste and mace if liked.
Put the milk over boiling water, drain the oysters and put the
liquor in a saucepan on the stove, wash the oysters and remove every
particle of shell that may adhere to them. When the milk is hot, add
the butter and flour, rubbed smoothly together, and thinned with a little
of the milk; let it cook, stirring slowly, until slightly thickened; the
liquor, which must be well boiled, skimmed, and hot, may then be added,
and after that the drained oysters. As soon as they are well puffed, and
the edges somewhat curled, serve the soup. Half a pint of rich cream
is a great improvement, and may be used instead of the butter.
This receipt is for oysters sold by the quart, with but very little
liquor, — " solid meats " as they are sometimes called. There would be
hardly half a pint of liquor in the two quarts. When the oysters have
more liquor, use less milk, that there may not be too much soup. Serve
with them a plate of small crackers, crisped in the oven.
A SOUP FROM THE BONES OF ROAST BEEF.
Two sliced potatoes, weighing about fourteen ounces.
Two grated carrots, weighing about one and a quarter pounds.
soup. 35
One sliced onion.
One dozen peeled and sliced tomatoes.
Two quarts of cold water.
Pepper and salt to taste.
Crack the bones and pnt them with the water in a closely covered
kettle; let them simmer slowly for one hour; add the vegetables, boil
two hours moderately; then season and serve.
It may be strained or not, but the bones must be removed before
it is poured in the tureen. If liked, the soup may be made thinner, but
should boil fifteen minutes after the water is added.
BEEF SOUP.
Time for making, three hours and ten minutes.
Three pounds of lean beef.
One can of tomatoes.
One large carrot (twelve ounces) chopped.
Two onions.
Two tablespoonfuls of rice.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Half a teaspoonful of ground cloves.
Four quarts of cold water.
Put the beef, carrot, onions, and rice, with the water, in the soup-
kettle; cover closely, and boil slowly for three hours; add the tomatoes,
salt, pepper, and cloves; boil ten minutes, and serve. If fresh tomatoes
are used, peel them, and put them in the kettle forty minutes before
serving.
36 IN" THE KITCHEN.
A CLEAR BEEF SOUP.
Cazenovia.
From a beef-shank, cut three or four pounds of the best meat, and
lay aside until the next day; crush the "bones and put them in the kettle
with five quarts of water and a little salt; cover closely, and simmer all
day, adding more water if necessary; then strain through a colander.
~Next morning remove all the grease from the top, and return the soup
to the kettle; add the beef, and let it simmer five or six hours; then
strain it again through a colander. The third morning remove the
grease; a little before dinner let it just begin to boil, then strain
through a bit of muslin, and return to the washed kettle; season
with salt and pepper, add a gill of sherry, or some Worcester sauce,
and a little celery; parboiled vermicelli may be thrown in five minutes
before it is served.
BEEF AND OKRA SOUP.
One pound of beef (from the round is best).
Quarter of a pound of butter.
One gallon of cold water.
One sliced onion.
Two handfuls of chopped okra.
Salt, pepper.
Cat the beef into small pieces; season with salt and pepper; fry it
in your soup-kettle with the butter and onion until very brown; then,
add the water and allow it to simmer an hour; then the okra, and sim-
mer three or four hours more, when it is ready to serve. It is very
delicious.
soup. 37
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
Two quarts of veal broth flavored with onion ; boil several bunches
of asparagus and a little mint ; when the heads are tender cut them off,
an inch in length, and set them aside; boil the rest until very tender,
then press it through the sieve and mix it in the soup; add one ounce
of flour rubbed smooth with two ounces of butter; add salt, cayenne
pepper, a suspicion of sugar, and a gill of cream; let it simmer until
the flour is cooked, then throw in the heads of asparagus, and serve.
If the soup is not green enough, color it with the juice pressed from
fresh spinach.
BROTH Iff AW HOUR.
Cut one pound of lean beef in small pieces, and put it in a stew-
pan, with one and a half ounces of chopped onion and four ounces of
chopped carrot, a few thin bits of bacon, and a gill of cold water; let
them simmer for a quarter of an hour, until they begin to stick to the
pan; then add one quart of boiling water, with a little salt and pepper;
boil three quarters of an hour, strain, and serve. It may be boiled
again after straining, with a small handful of vermicelli, and may be
seasoned with catsup.
BROWN VEAL BROTH.
Fry a slice of veal, one of bacon, and one of beef, a light brown in
butter, and throw them into a saucepan, with two quarts of boiling
water, two small onions, and one or two carrots chopped, the rind of
half a lemon, pepper and salt; let them simmer gently for two hours;
remove the meat, and strain the soup, if preferred. The veal may be
38 IN THE KITCHEN".
cut in dice, and served in the soup. There should be twice as much of
the veal as of the beef, and the slice of bacon should be thin and small.
CALF'S HEAD, OR MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
Boil the head, well covered with water, and cut the meat in two-
inch squares. Put three ounces of batter, rubbed with three table-
spoonfuls of flour, in a pot to brown, and when well colored, stir in
gradually the liquor in which the head was boiled, and the square
pieces, with some mace, cloves, sweet marjoram, or other sweet herbs,
pepper, and salt; let it simmer an hour or two; add one and a half
gills of wine, and just before serving add some lemon-juice.
MOOK TURTLE SOUP.
Time for making, four and a half hours.
Half a calf's head.
One quarter of a pound of lean ham.
Two tablespoonfuls of minced parsley.
Two onions and a few mushrooms chopped.
A little lemon-thyme, sweet marjoram, and basil minced.
Two heaped tablespoonfuls of flour.
One gill of sherry or Madeira.
Force meat balls. (See page 60.)
Cayenne, salt, and mace to taste.
The juice of one or two lemons.
One dessert spoonful of powdered sugar.
Three quarts of best stock.
Scald the head and remove the brain; tie the head in a cloth, and
boil one hour; cut the meat into small square pieces and throw the
soup. 39
bones into cold water; put the meat in a stewpan, cover with the stock,
and boil gently an hour, or until tender; then set it aside. Melt the but-
ter in another stewpan, add the ham cut small, with the herbs, parsley,
onions, and mushrooms; when hot sift in the flour, stir, and let it
brown, then add gradually a pint of the stock and the wine; stew
gently ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve; add the tender square
bits of calf's head, and season with cayenne, a little salt if required, one
quarter of a teaspoonful of mace, if liked, and the sugar; put in the
force meat balls, let them simmer for five minutes, then serve. Stew
the bones in the liquor in which the head was boiled, and you will have
good white stock.
MOCK TERRAPIN SOUP.
Mrs. Tales.
, Wash two pounds of calf's liver in cold water; put it in one quart
of warm water and parboil it; take it out, chop it very fine, and return
it to the same water; season with pepper, salt, a little mace and mus-
tard; mix two even tablespoonfuls of flour smooth in half a pound of
butter, stir it in, and let it boil twenty minutes. While the liver is par-
boiling, mash the yolks of two very hard-boiled eggs, mix them with
the yolk of a raw egg, half a teaspoonful of sweet oil, and flour enough
to bind the whole together; make up into round balls the size of a
small nutmeg, flattened at one end. When the butter is stirred in the
soup, drop them into boiling water; move the saucepan a little back
where the boiling will cease, and let them stand for ten minutes; then
skim them out into the tureen. Add half a pint of sherry to the soup
and pour it over them.
40
EST THE KITCHEN.
CARROT SOUP.
Knuckle of veal, about five pounds.
One gallon of cold water.
One head of celery, or one half teaspoonful of celery seed.
One pinch of cayenne pepper.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
Two and a half pounds chopped carrots.
Put all the ingredients in the soup-kettle, cover closely, and let
them boil three hours very slowly; then remove the knuckle and
serve the soup, which may be strained or not, as preferred.
CHICKEN" SOUP, MADE IN TWO HOURS AND TEN MINUTES.
Two chickens.
Fourteen ounces chopped carrots.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
Two teaspoonfuls of pepper.
One can of tomatoes.
One onion sliced.
Four quarts of cold water.
If the chickens are required whole for the table, they should be
stuffed, trussed, and sewed separately in some thin cotton cloth. If
they are wanted simply for salad or croquettes, this care is needless.
Put them in a kettle with the water,, onion, and carrots; let them boil
slowly, closely covered, for two hours; then take out the chickens, add
the tomatoes, the pepper, and salt, and let the soup boil ten minutes
longer. It is then ready to serve.
SOUP.
41
CHICKEX GOMBO SOUP.
Mrs. M , New Orleans.
One good-sized fowl.
Four quarts of water.
Two ounces of butter.
One ounce of lard.
Two ounces of onion, chopped very fine.
Twenty or thirty oysters.
Haifa tablespoonful of filet powder.
Handful of chopped okra, a little flour, cayenne and black pepper,
salt.
Cut the fowl, season with salt and pepper, and dredge it with flour ;
put it in the kettle with the lard, butter, and onion, and fry until quite
brown; then add the water, cover the pot and allow it to simmer, not
boil, for two hours; add the oysters and okra, and let it simmer half
an hour longer. Just before serving, add the filet powder (sassafras
buds) and a little cayenne.
SIMPLE GUMBO FILET.
Upper Gisboro', D. C.
Cut a fowl of any kind in small pieces, and dredge them well with
flour; fry them brown in lard; add pepper and salt and three pints of
water; cover closely, and boil until the soup is well flavored. "When
ready to serve, thicken it with a tablespoonful of sassafras powder (see
page 207) and let it boil up once.
42 IN THE KITCHEN.
SASSAFEAS GOMBO, OR GOMBO FILET.
Prof. Alexander Demitry, of New Orleans.
Take a quart or a pint of oysters, according to the quantity of
stock required; parboil them in their own liquor, to which, if undiluted,
add a cupful of water while over the fire. This being done, take them
off the fire, and set them aside.
Slice and cut up a good-sized onion, having also ready a teaspoon-
ful of finely chopped parsley or celery.
Cut up in not large pieces a chicken or a half of one, according to
the stock desired, and four or five ounces of ham in small pieces. You
have now all the materials for your stock, which is made! as follows: —
First fry your onions in hot lard; when softened and turning brown,
skim them out of the lard, taking care to leave no particles, which, char-
ring, would impart a bitter flavor to the stock.
Then throw into the hot lard your chicken and ham, which, when
done bi'own, sprinkle gradually with a cupful of hot water, throwing
in the chopped parsley or celery; cover the vessel, and give a simmer
of five minutes on a slow fire. At this point may be added, if accepta-
ble, a half-pod of cayenne pepper, or a sufficient quantity of the ground
to give pungency; a dash of mushroom catsup, and one of "Worcester
sauce may be added. No cold water is to be used in making stock.
Continue every five minutes to add a cupful of hot water, keeping up
the simmering, but never boiling, until you have your due quantity of
stock for the number of plates which you may have to serve. The last
addition of liquid, to complete, is to be made from the liquor of the
oysters, which, with them, is thrown in to simmer a few minutes more.
Thus far, we have a rich composite stew, which is now to be con-
verted into gombo by the following process: Have ready about a
soup. 43
heaped tablespoonful of sassafras leaves (dried), finely powdered.
Draw your stock from the fire, and by sprinkling the sassafras over the
liquid, rapidly beating it at the same time with a spoon, thoroughly
incorporate the powder with the stock, and Io Pcean! the gombo is done.
JSlota Bene. — Never attempt to add the sassafras while the vessel
is on the fire. The result of so doing would be to precipitate the
powder to the bottom of the vessel, and, literally, send your gombo to
pot.
At the table, the gombo may be served as a thickened soup, to be<
eaten with boiled rice or bread, as may be preferred. The rice, how-
ever, is an element in the ritual of gombo.
Sassafras leaves, prepared and put up in jars, can be obtained at
botanical stores and of cuisiniers.
TO MAKE A CRAB GOMBO.
Mrs. I. E. Morse.
Substitute a dozen crabs, or a dozen, and a half, should they be
small, for the chicken; prepare them as you would for stewing, then
sprinkle them well with flour, throw them in the boiling lard, which is
already impregnated with the flavor of onion; add the bits of ham; fol-
low the directions for chicken gombo, omitting only the oysters. For
a Fast-Day dinner, a quarter of a pound of butter may be used instead
of the ham.
OEEA OOMB 0.
Mrs. I. E. Morse.
This is prepared as the above, using instead of the sassafras two
quarts of tender okra, which should be boiled well in a separate tin, and
44 IN THE KITCHEN.
added to the stock about fifteen minutes before serving the soup
Gombo should be served as a thickened soup, and eaten with boilec
rice.
OKRA SOTTP.
H. A. W. Barclay.-
Put into your digester or soup-pot a shin or shoulder clod of beef,
with three quarts of water and a little salt; let it boil, and skim it
well. Cut in thin slices (having pared off the stalk) a 'quart of okra,
to which add the same quantity of tomato, peeled and sliced; put
these in the pot, with four or six shred onions, a bunch of thyme tied
in muslin, and salt and pepper to your taste; let it boil very slowly
for six hours, stirring it occasionally. If boiled down, add more water
half an hour before serving. Pour all in the tureen, save the beef and
thyme.
OKRA SOUP.
Db. Picot.
One chicken.
One pound of veal.
Two pounds of beef.
Half a peck of okra.
One pint of green corn.
One pint of Lima beans.
Four quarts of water.
Six good-sized tomatoes.
One green and one red pepper.
soup. 45
One carrot.
One onion.
One tablespoonful of butter.
Three even tablespoonfuls of salt.
. Three or four sprigs of parsley.
Three or four stalks of celery.
Cut the chicken and put it in the kettle with the butter and toma-
toes, which must be peeled and sliced; add the veal and beef, cut in
small pieces, and the okra sliced, the green corn cut from the ear, the
.beans, celery, parsley, and salt, with one quart of water. Boil three or
four hours; add the remainder of the water, let it boil half an hour,
then strain it and serve, reserving the okra, corn, etc., to be eaten as a
vegetable in the second course ; or remove simply the meat with part of
the vegetables, leaving a tolerably thick soup.
This is especially good the second day.
MtTLLIGATAWNEY SOUP.
General Stuart.
Three pounds of a neck of veal stewed in two quarts of water,
until reduced to one quart. Six grated onions put into a stewpan with
two tablespoonfuls of curry powder, a pint and a half of water, and
salt to the taste. Stew gently until the onions are melted, then add
the gravy from the veal, and a fowl, cut up and skinned; let them
all stew together gently until the fowl is well done; then take two
good-sized onions and slice them very fine, fry them brown, rub
them through a sieve, and add them to the soup, taking care that the
fat is previously well skimmed off; add lemon-juice to your taste, and
serve with a dish of well-boiled rice.
46 IN THE KITOHEK.
MTJLLIGATAWNEY SOUP, NO. 2.
Slice six large onions and two heads of celery; fry in a little but-
ter till colored; add basil and sweet marjoram, three tablespoonfuls of
curry, and four quarts of stock; thicken moderately with flour rubbed
in butter; let it boil gently, and rub through a sieve. Cut a good-sized
fowl, or two chickens, and fry lightly; throw them in the soup, and let
it simmer an hour; skim, and season with salt and lemon-juice. Serve
with it rice, boiled dry.
MTJLLIGATAWNEY SOUP.
English Ebceipx.
Two tablespoonfuls of curry.
Six rather small onions.
One clove of garlic.
One ounce pounded almonds.
Lemon pickle.
One fowl or rabbit cut in small joints.
Four thin slices of the lean of ham.
Two quarts of stock.
Slice and fry the onions a delicate brown, and slightly brown the
joints of the fowl or rabbit; line the stewpan with the ham, and put in
the onion, garlic, fowl, and stock; let them simmer until tender; skim,
and when the meat is done add the curry rubbed smooth with a little
of the stock, also the almonds, pounded with a few drops of the stock
added occasionally; season to the taste with lemon pickle, and salt if
necessary. Serve with boiled rice.
soup. 47
MUTTON SOUP.
Boil a leg of mutton in two quarts of water. Have a can of
tomatoes, heated and highly seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated
onion. "When the mutton is cooked, take it from the kettle and keep
it hot while the soup is made and served. To three pints of the broth
add the tomatoes and one pint of hot milk; let them boil up once, then
serve, being sure that the soup is sufficiently seasoned.
NOODLE SOUP.
Beat one egg with a small pinch of salt; mix stiff with flour,
knead, and roll very thin; sift a little flour over the sheet, and roll it
into a tight scroll; then with a sharp knife cut it as you would a roll of
jelly-cake, but the slices must not be more than one eighth of an inch
thick; shake it out and leave it on the floured board, while the two
quarts of stock, which may be of any kind, are heated and seasoned.
When boiling hot drop in the noodles, boil five minutes, and serve.
RICE SOUP.
Prepare two quarts of veal or chicken soup, and let it simmer,
closely covered, with one gill of rice until the grains are nearly dis-
solved; add pepper, salt, a little mace if liked, and half a pint of
cream; just before serving, throw in the sifted yolks of four hard-boiled
eggs; send to the table with a plate of rice croquettes.
PARKER HOUSE SOUP.
Pare and cut a medium-sized carrot, a beet, and a turnip, also two
small onions; slice three quarts of tomatoes; boil the whole one hour
48 IX THE KITCHEN.
in three quarts of good beef-stock and strain it through the colander.
Heat five ounces of butter in a pan, until it becomes a light brown ;
take it from the fire, and while hot sift in four even tablespoonfuls of
flour; mix well, add a pint of the hot soup, and then pour the whole in
the soap-kettle; season with pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of
sugar; place it on. the fire and stir until it boils; boil and skim it five
minutes. In the winter two cans of tomatoes may be used in place of
the fresh, and the soup may be strained before they are added.
SPINACH SOUP.
Boil spinach and prepare it as for the table, with salt, butter, and
cream; press it through the sieve into a good stock soup, well seasoned,
and flavored with vegetables; add a gill of cream; let it boil a moment,
and serve.
SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
Two quarts of clear stock.
Half a pint of carrots.
Half a pint of turnips.
Quarter of a pint of onions.
Half a head of celery.
Cut all the vegetables into strips about one and a quarter inches
long; blanch them a few moments in boiling water; let them simmer
in the soup until tender; season with salt and pepper. In summer
asparagus heads and bits of string beans may be used.
SOUP WITH POACHED EGGS.
Any kind of clear soup may be used ; it should be well seasoned,
and if liked, a few sticks of blanched macaroni (see page 61) may be
soup. 49
simmered in it ten minutes or until tender. Wet or butter as many
patty-pans or cups as there are plates at table; break an egg in each;
put them in a pan on the stove, and pour boiling water gently around
and over them. "When the white is set, loosen them from the cups, slide
them carefully into the tureen, pour in the hot soup, and serve.
SUMMER SOUP.
Put a beef-shank in a kettle, with four quarts of water; boil slowly
for six hours, or until the water is reduced to two quarts. An hour
before serving, add one pint of green corn cut very fine, six ripe toma-
toes sliced, four small potatoes sliced, and two or three sliced onions;
sweet herbs, if liked ; season to the taste with pepper and salt. Just
before taking it up add half a pint of fresh cream, in which a table-
spoonful of flour has been smoothly mixed.
TAPIOCA SOUP.
Soak one ounce of tapioca in half a gill of water for two hours ;
throw it in two and a half pints of well-seasoned broth, cover closely,
and let it simmer twenty minutes.
SAGO AND TOMATO SOUP.
Boil two quarts of peeled, sliced tomatoes, and a sliced onion, until
half cooked. Pour a pint and a half of boiling water on a gill of sago,
let it boil ten minutes, then put it with the tomatoes, and add a quart of
boiling water; season with two tablespoonfuls of salt, three of sugar,
a teaspoonful of pepper, and four cloves, and boil until the tomatoes are
50 IK THE KITCHEN".
done; if too thick, add boiling, water, and more seasoning if liked.
When the soup is in the tureen, strew it with bread dice (page 61).
TOMATO SOUP.
Beef-shin weighing seven pounds.
Four quarts of cold water.
Two quarts of sliced tomatoes.
Six onions.
Three ounces of bread crumbs.
One and a half ounces of salt.
One third of a teaspoonful of red pepper.
Cut the meat in bits (there must be no fat), crush the bone, and
put all in the soup-kettle with the water; cover closely, and heat
slowly. When it begins to boil, leave it uncovered until all the scum
has risen and been removed ; then re-cover, and boil slowly for two and
a half hours; add the tomatoes, onions, bread, pepper, and salt; then
cover closely, and boil very slowly for six hours.
This soup may be strained or not. If strained, the tomatoes need
not be peeled.
TURTLE BEAN SOUP, NO. 1.
Brooklyn, N. Y.
Wash and soak over night in tepid water one pint of black beans;
in the morning add four quarts of cold water, a shin-bone of beef or
veal, salt, cayenne pepper, and thyme, two onions, two tomatoes, one
large head of celery, two teaspoonfuls of allspice, one teaspoonful of
cloves, one tablespoonful of catsup. Keep the original quantity of
water by replenishing from a boiling kettle. After several hours, when
soup. 51
the beans are soft, strain through a colander, mashing the beans. Have
ready force meat balls, made of veal, and a little salt pork chopped fine;
add one egg; season to taste; make into small balls, and fry in butter
and lard; lay them in the tureen with two sliced boiled eggs, and one
lemon sliced very thin; pour in the boiling soup, and serve. If boiled
calf's feet are at hand, cut some of the meat fine and add to the soup;
it will be found a great addition.
TURTLE BEAN SOUP, NO. 2.
Half a pound of beef.
Half a pound of salt pork.
Two or three ounces of sausage.
One pint of black beans.
Half a gill of wine.
One carrot, and one onion sliced.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
A pinch of red pepper.
One lemon.
Three eggs, hard boiled.
Wash the beans, pour over them one pint of hot water, cover, and
let them soak over night; then put them in the sonp-kettle, with two
quarts of hot water, the carrot and onion, the beef and pork ; boil three
or four hours closely covered; rub the whole through the colander, and
add boiling water to make the quantity three quarts ; add the salt and
pepper. The sausage may be cut in uniform bits, about an inch long,
and thrown in to cook ten minutes; when ready to serve, skim them
out, remove the skin, and lay them in the tureen, with the sliced eggs,
the lemon, and wine; pour in the soup, and serve. The remains of a
52 IN THE KITCHEN.
cold joint may be used for this soup instead of the fresh meat, and to
the seasoning, mace and cloves may be added.
WHITE SOUP (Medford).
Put a knuckle of veal in the pot, and cover it with cold water;
when it boils, skim thoroughly; let it simmer, closely covered, two
hours or more; then strain it, add pepper, salt, a little mace, and a
handful of vermicelli; boil slowly ten minutes; then place the pot back
where the boiling will cease; add an ounce of butter and a cup of
cream, and stir in quickly the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Serve at
once.
COCOANUT SOUP.
Put six ounces of grated cocoanut in two quarts of good veal
stock and let it simmer for one hour, keeping it covered; strain it
Closely; add a gill of hot cream, half a tcaspoonful of mace, a pinch of
cayenne, salt to the taste, and four even tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed
smooth in a little cold milk; let it boil a moment, then serve.
WHITE SOUP, WO. 1.
A knuckle of veal weighing from five to seven pounds.
Four quarts of cold water.
Three pints of new milk or thin cream.
Six ounces of bread crumbs.
Two ounces of butter.
One ounce of salt.
One and a half ounces of flour.
soup. 53
Twelve small white onions.
Haifa teaspoonful of cayenne pepper.
Pour the water over the veal and let it boil uncovered until the
scum has risen and been removed; then cover closely, and let it boil
very slowly, or simmer, for three hours ; add the bread, and continue the
slow cooking for three hours more ; then strain, return to the kettle ;
add the salt and pepper, also the butter and flour rubbed together, and
thinned with a spoonful or two of the soup; let it boil two minutes to
cook the flour; then add the milk, and when it is on the point of boil-
ing pour it in the tureen. If too thin, have three beaten eggs in the
tureen; this will thicken the scalding soup as it is poured in; stir it
sufficiently to mix well.
WHITE SOUP, NO. 2.
A knuckle of veal, five pounds.
Three quarts and one pint of cold water.
One quart of milk.
Six ounces of cut celery.
Four ounces of broken macaroni.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
One teaspoonful of white pepper.
Three eggs.
Crush the lower part of the bone, put the whole in the kettle with
the water, and let it heat slowly; when it boils skim it well, then let it
boil very slowly for two and a half hours; skim it again, add the celery,
and boil another half hour; then take out the knuckle, and a pint of
the soup to make a gravy for it; add the milk, pepper, salt, and
blanched macaroni (see page 61), and let it boil slowly until the maca-
54 IX THE KITCHEN.
roni is tender. "When ready to serve, beat the eggs in the tureen, and
pour the boiling soup on them; stir and send to the table. There
should be nearly three quarts.
WHITE SOUP WITH ALMONDS.
One. quart of veal jelly.
One pint of cream.
Four ounces of sweet almonds blanched and pounded to a paste,
using a little water to prevent their becoming oily.
Two ounces of butter rubbed with three tablespoonfuls of flour.
One teaspoonful of white pepper.
Two and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
Haifa teaspoonful of powdered mace.
The rind of a lemon.
Put the cream over boiling water with the lemon rind; put the
jelly on the stove, and when hot pour it gradually in the cream; add
all the other ingredients, and let it simmer fifteen minutes. Take out
the lemon when the soup is sufficiently flavored.
VEGETABLE SOUP.
One and a half pounds, or one sliced turnip.
One and a half pounds, or one sliced carrot.
Seven ounces, or two sliced onions.
Four ounces of cut celery.
Half an ounce of flour.
Three ounces of butter.
Three quarts and a pint of water.
soup. . 55
Two even tablespoonfuls of salt.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
A sprig of parsley.
A few tender leaves of celery.
Put all of the above ingredients in two quarts of the water, and
boil them until perfectly tender, When the water will be nearly absorbed ;
rub the whole through a sieve, add the three pints of water, and when
it boils, stir in the butter, having softened it with a little of the hot soup,
and rubbed it smooth with the flour, salt, and pepper; let it boil two
or three minutes, then serve.
A parsnip may be used instead of the carrot, and a gill of rich
cream will do the soup no harm.
CELERY SOUP.
Put half a pint of rice, boiled as a vegetable, into two quarts of
boiling milk, with a head of celery cut very fine ; cover, and let it stew
over boiling water until the celery is tender; season to the taste with
butter, salt, white pepper, and a little mace, if liked. Have two well-
beaten eggs in the tureen ; pour in the soup, and scatter crisp bread dice
(see page 61) over the top.
CORN SOUP.
One and a half pints of corn cut from the cob.
One quart of cold water.
One quart of milk.
Three ounces of butter.
Three even tablespoonfuls of flour.
56 IN THE KITCHEN.
Three even teaspoonfuls of salt.
One fourth of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper.
Two eggs.
Take the corn from the cob in this way: cut through the centre of
every row of grains, then cut off just the outer part, and with the back
of the blade push out the kernel and the milk, leaving only the hull on
the cob. Of this, take one and a half pints, cover with the cold water,
and boil until tender; it is well to allow half an hour, but if done sooner
it can wait without harm. Then rub the butter and flour, salt and
pepper together, with a little of the soup; stir them in and let it bail
up ; then add the milk and let it barely break into boiling before stirring
in the beaten eggs; after which, it must not be allowed to boil. Serve
very hot.
ONION SOUP.
Slice a dozen medium-sized onions, and brown them in butter,
with a little flour; stir them gradually in three quarts of scalding
milk, which should be in a milkpan, over a kettle of boiling water ;
season with pepper and salt, and thicken it with half a pint of grated
potato ; add half a pint of sweet cream, and serve very hot. A. little
butter may be used instead of cream.
PEA SOUP (Green).
Pour two quarts of cold water on two quarts of clean, tender pea-
pods, and boil them half an hour; strain the water on one quart and a
gill of shelled peas; add half of an onion, grated, and boil until tender;
reserve the gill of peas and pass the rest through the colander with the
soup; add three itablespoonfuls of flour rubbed with three ounces of
soup. 57
butter, two and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, half a pint of
cream and the same of milk; throw in the gill of whole peas, boil two
or three minutes, and serve. If mint is liked, a little may be chopped
and put in the tureen. This rule makes less than two quarts of soup.
PEA SOUP (Dried).
Time Three Hours,
One pint of split peas.
Three pints of water.
One small onion.
Half a head of celery.
Half a small carrot.
Boil until the peas are cooked. To hasten the cooking, pour in,
every half hour, half a gill of cold water, and start the boiling imme-
diately afterwards; this saves the necessity of previous soaking. When
the peas are soft, rub them with the liquor through a wire sieve; add
one pint of sweet cream, and sufficient milk to make it the desired con-
sistency; season with pepper and salt.
POTATO SOUP.
Mrs. Stkattan.
Three pounds of unpared potatoes.
A quarter of a pound of butter.
Three pints of milk.
One tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two thirds of a teaspoonful of white pepper.
53 IN THE KITCHEN.
One onion.
A pinch of mace.
Pare the potatoes, and boil until tender, pour off the water, pound
them, and add the butter, salt, pepper, and milk; boil two or three min-
utes ; put the parsley in the soup tureen, and pour in the soup through
a colander.
POTATO SOUP.
Mary.
Slice one and a half pounds of pared potatoes, and boil them in
one quart of water; pass the whole through a colander; add one quart
of milk, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one and a half ounces of flour rubbed
until smooth in two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of white
pepper; add two gills of rich cream, and serve very hot.
TOMATO SOUP MADE IN FIFTEEN MINUTES.
Hudson.
One can of tomatoes.
Two ounces of butter.
Quarter of an ounce, or two butter crackers.
Half a pint of boiling milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of soda.
A very small pinch of cayenne pepper.
Bub the tomato through the colander; let it boil three minutes; add
the soda and let it boil until it stops foaming, stirring it all the time;
add the crackers rolled fine, the butter, salt, pepper, and the boiling
milk; let it boil five minutes, then serve.
SOUP.
59
TOMATO SOUP, NO. 1.
Friday.
Two quarts of tomatoes (canned or fresh).
Two quarts of milk.
Two ounces of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
One teaspoonful of soda.
Four teaspoonfuls of salt.
If fresh tomatoes are used, peel and slice them ; boil the tomatoes
until thoroughly cooked, from half to three quarters of an hour; have
the milk scalding over boiling water; add the salt and pepper to the
tomatoes; also the butter and flour rubbed together, and made of the
consistency of cream, with a little of the hot tomato; stir in the soda,
having first dissolved it in a spoonful of the soup;1 let it boil a few
minutes, then pour in the boiling milk, and serve at once, with fried
bread dice thrown over the top.
TOMATO SOUP, NO. 2.
Friday.
One can or one quart of fresh tomatoes.
One onion.
Four ounces of butter.
Two ounces of flour.
Two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
One third of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper.
60 IN THE KITCHEN.
Half a pint of rich milt.
Three pints of water.
If fresh tomatoes are used, peel and/ slice them ; boil the tomatoes
and onion in the water for three quarters of an hour; add the salt,
sugar, and pepper, and the butter and flour rubbed smoothly together,
with a little of the soup to aid in mixing, and a little more to make it
like thin cream; boil ten minutes, and when ready to serve, pour in the
milk, which must be boiling, to prevent its curdling the soup. When
.the soup is in the tureen, scatter fried bread dice over the top (see
page 61).
SOUP (Liebig).
Mince a pound of beef, without bone, very fine; pour over it a pint
of cold water in which a turnip, carrot, onion, and a clove have been
boiled; heat gradually, and let it simmer ten minutes, when it is fit for
use ; season with pepper and salt.
TO BROWN FLOUR FOR SOUPS AND GRAVIES.
Put a pint of flour in an iron saucepan on the range, and when it
begins to heat stir constantly until it is dark brown, but be very care-
ful not to let it burn; when cold, put it in a covered jar or large-
mouthed bottle, and keep it from the air. More of this is required for
thickening a gravy than of flour that has not been browned.
FORCE MEAT BALLS FOR SOUP.
Twelve ounces of veal.
Three ounces of salt pork.
soup. 61
Two ounces of grated bread.
Three tablespoonfuls of sweet cream.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Haifa teaspoonful of pepper.
Half a teaspoonful of summer savory.
One egg beaten with the cream.
The veal and pork must be chopped fine as possible, well mixed
with the other ingredients, and made into smooth, round balls, a little
larger than an ordinary marble; roll them in egg, then in fine grated
bread; place them on the frying-basket, and fry in deep lard. When
the soup is ready to serve, lay a dozen or more in the tureen.
VERMICELLI AND MACARONI FOR SOUP.
Pour a quart of boiling water on half a pound of vermicelli or mac-
aroni; add a pinch of salt; cover, and let it stand fifteen minutes; drain,
and pour cold water over it; drain, and let it simmer five minutes in the
soup; allow a little more time for macaroni than for vermicelli.
BREAD BROWNED AND CRISPED FOR SOUP.
Cut moderately thick slices of stale bread; take off the crust, and
cut the crumb into small dice; put them in the frying-basket, sink it in
hot lard or drippings, and remove it as soon as the bread is browned ;
let it drain; then serve in a dish alone, or scatter it over the soup in the
tureen.
62 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL KEOEDPTS.
6B
64
FOR ADDITIONAL, RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 65
66 FOE ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FRYIXG. 67
PHYIN a.
The secret of accomplishing this work to perfection is to have the lard so deep that it
entirely covers what you wish to fry, and so hot as instantly to form a crust over the entire
surface. If further cooking is necessary, the heat must be reduced. Says Savarin, " In frying,
when once the surprise has been effected, lower the fire a little, so that the stewing of the
interior particles may not be too quick, and in order that the gradual heat may better bring
out the taste." By this mode we avoid the fat-soaked, unwholesome dishes which are so often
the result of the usual method of frying.
E. S & E. I. Delamere, of London, say, " The best frying is done by plunging the article
entirely in boiling fat. How often do we see fried potatoes and soles mere slices of something
sodden in grease. Boiling grease does not enter articles plunged into it, but forms a crust on
their surface, which keeps it out. A well-fried sole will hardly soil the napkin on which it is
laid." Either lard or drippings may bo used for this purpose. Test the heat with a bit of
bread an inch square: if it browns in one minute, the heat is right.
In frying croquettes, lay them in a frying-basket, and plunge it in the hot lard ; this forms
at once a crust over the outside, which prevents the fat from penetrating. When a beautiful
brown, put the basket in a pan for a moment, while you transfer the croquettes to a folded
brown paper to absorb any drops that may adhere to them. They are so dry you can lift
them with the hand, and thus avoid the danger of marring the surface. Serve on a folded
napkin on a platter. If it is not quite time to send them to the table, let them remain on the
paper in the mouth of the oven to keep hot.
Have an oval pan or kettle for frying fish; it may be made of tin. Have also an oval
basket; any tinner can make it. It is better without sides. Form the edge with a heavy wire,
and have fine wires running across, half an inch apart, or have it made of coarse wire cloth
bound with tin. At each end there must be a long wire loop for a handle. It is very easy to
take up a fish cooked in this way: Lift the frame from the kettle, let it stand for a moment
across a pan that the lard may drip; loosen it with a knife from the frame, and slide it off on
the hot platter. Have a round basket for croquettes made to fit the kettle you wish to use. In
frying doughnuts the basket is not necessary.
For browning a mould, an oval pint-mould of potato, for instance, have a piece of sheet-
68 IN THE KITCHEN.
iron, cut about an inch larger than the top of the tin mould, with a wire hand's at each end;
lay it on the mould, turn it upside down, remove the mould, cover the potato r.-'.'h the yolk of
an egg, and sift over it very fine bread crumbs; wipe the edge of the sheet-iro i. then plunge
it instantly in the hot lard. The potato must be hot when it goes in, so it will require nothing
more than browning; and when this is perfect, lift the whole from the lard, pass a knife
between it and the potato, and slide it carefully into the centre of a platter, where the irregu-
larities of the edge may be concealed with a garnish of curled parsley.
FISH.
TO STEAM A FISH.
Secure the tail of the fish in its mouth; lay it on a plate, and pour
over it half a pint of vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt; let it stand
an hour in the refrigerator; then pour off the vinegar, and put in a
steamer over boiling water; steam twenty minutes, or longer if the fish
is very large (when done, the meat parts easily from the bone) ; drain
well, and serve on a napkin garnished with curled parsley ; serve drawn
butter in a boat.
TO BOIL A TROUT WEIGHING OWE POUND.
"When properly scaled and dressed, wrap it in a napkin, drop it into
boiling water, in which there is a little salt, and boil only four or five
minutes; drain it well, and serve on a fresh napkin, garnished with
parsley. The sauce with which it is eaten should be served in a boat.
BASS STEWED WITH TOMATO
Atteb M. S. W., "Choice Receipts."
Stew a can or one quart of fresh tomatoes half an hour; slice two
onions and fry them in one and a half gills of sweet oil; cut four pounds
FISH. 69
of the fish in square pieces; put it in the saucepan with the onions and
oil; strain the tomatoes over it; add salt and pepper to the taste ; cover
closely, and stew slowly for an hour or more. The fish must keep in
form.
STEWED ROCK.
Clynmaleara.
Slice six large onions, brown them well with flour and butter; they
should be browned as dark and crisp as possible without burning; put
them in the fish-kettle, then lay in the fish on its belly; cover it with
lard or butter, to prevent the skin from breaking; pour over it a quart
of water, in which two teaspoonfuls of thyme and two of sweet mar-
joram have been well steeped; cover, and cook very slowly. Just
bjfore serving add one dozen picked crabs, one gill of walnut catsup,
one gill of mushroom catsup, and one and a quarter gills of port wine.
In the winter two quarts of oysters are used instead of the crabs. It
requires three quarters of a pound of butter in cooking, and should
remain on the fire two hours.
STEWED HADDOCK.
Mrs. D.
Split the fish lengthwise, and cut from four to five pounds in square
pieces; boil the fins and head, and strain the liquor; butter a porcelain
saucepan, and lay the fish in with the flesh downwards, having sprin-
kled each piece with cayenne pepper, mace, salt, and flour; put a pint
of the liquor in the saucepan, cover, and let it simmer gently for twenty
minutes, occasionally shaking the pan ; add two teaspoonfuls of Read-
70 IN THE KITCHEN.
ing sauce, the same of anchovy, and half a pint of sherry or Madeira
wine ; rub two ounces of butter with two even tablespoonfuls of flour,
and stir it in the gravy; add more mace and cayenne, if necessary; let it
simmer ten minutes, and serve in a deep dish garnished with parsley
and lemon. The gravy must be poured over the fish.
CURRIED COD.
Two slices of cod, or the remains of any cold fish, about one and a
quarter pounds.
Three ounces of butter.
One gill of cream
Two gills of white stock.
One tablespoonful of flour.
One tablespoonful of curry powder.
One grated onion.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Flake the fish and fry it in the butter, with the onion until it is a
delicate brown; put it in the stewpan, add the stock, and the flour
rubbed smooth with a little of the stock; let it simmer ten minutes;
mix the curry, with the cream, beginning with a little of the latter; add
it to the other, ingredients ; let it boil once, and serve.
MARYLAND CHOWDER.
A chowder may be made of any fish, or of different kinds together,
but there is nothing better than the shoulder of a large cod, or good-
FISH. 71
sized haddock. Have the fish well cleaned, and cut into pieces of uni-
form size.
Two pounds of fish.
Half a pound of water crackers.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of oysters or clams.
One gill of cream.
One gill of water.
One onion sliced.
One tablespoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of black pepper.
Half a teaspoonful of mace.
One third of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper.
Put the water in a saucepan or clean iron pot; put in the onion,
lay in half of the fish, the skin side down, and sprinkle over it half
the salt, pepper, etc., then put in half of the oysters or clams; cover
them with half the butter, in small lumps, and half of the crackers;
then the rest of the fish, oysters, seasoning, butter, and crackers; pour
the cream over the top, having first boiled it. If the oysters or clams
have much liquor, the water will not be required; if the chowder is
found too dry, a little more water may be added. Cover close, and
stew half an hour. Serve on a platter. Milk may be used instead of
cream; pork or bacon, cut in small pieces, gives it a very good flavor.
This dish differs from the New England chowder in being eaten
with a fork from a dinner-plate, instead of with a spoon from a soup-plate.
CLAM CHOWIER.
One pint of clams (the hard part chopped).
Three quarters of a pound of potatoes.
72
IN THE KITCHEN.
Three Boston crackers, broken in small bits.
Three small slices of salt pork.
Half a teaspoonful of white pepper.
Half a gill of cream.
Put the pork in a saucepan, and fry it slowly until crisp ; then put
in the clams and sliced potatoes, in layers with the pepper; add the
liquor from the clams, and sufficient water to cook the potatoes; when
they are tender, throw in the cracker, let it boil a moment add the cream,
and a little salt if necessary, and serve on a platter.
CLAM CHOWDER.
DR. COLMAX, SWAMPSCOTT.
Blanch a quarter of a pound of fat pork (pickled) in hot water,
drain, and cut into small dice; fry brown in a porcelain-lined kettle;
shred in a small onion (say one and one fourth inches in diameter) and
brown it.
Remove from the fire and add :
One quart of well-washed, thinly-sliced potatoes.1
One large teaspoonful of salt.2
One small teaspoonful of black pepper.
One pint of the water from the clams.
One quart of cold water.
Replace upon the fire and boil until the potatoes are cooked;
test by breaking with a fork. Then add one quart of solid clams.3
1 Potatoes for chowder should be sliced thin, and then washed in at least two waters.
s If water is used instead of the liquor from the clams, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt
should be taken.
3 Some cooks chop the hard part of the clams before cooking, and it is advisable to do so,
and to remove the hard, uneatable black tips, when they are large.
FISH.
73
"Now mix gradually and smoothly, one pint of milk with two and one
half ounces of flour, and acid it; let the whole boil up; remove from
the fire and serve.
Crackers or pilot bread to be added, if at all, — not desirable, —
just after the clams.
The bacon mentioned by foreign writers is equivalent to our salt,
pickled, or mess pork, and is not like the smoked sides and shoulders
with which we are familiar under the name of bacon, side meat, etc.
N. B. The dish prepared without pork is not a chowder, but
rather like an oyster stew.
GLOUCESTER CHOWDER,
Boil six pounds of cod or haddock (the latter is better) five min-
utes in one quart of water. Take the kettle from the fire, put the fish
on a plate to cool, strain the water, and return it to the kettle with five
or six (more if liked) sliced potatoes and a sliced onion; boil until
they are nearly cooked, then add the fish, the bones and skin having
been removed; add two quarts of milk, with pepper and salt to taste,
and boil five minutes; take off the kettle, add six or eight Boston
crackers split. Some prefer the hard-water crackers, which require a
few moments cooking in the chowder; add two and a half ounces of
butter, and stir gently to mix the ingredients. Pour into the tureen?
and serve very hot.
PLANKED SHAD.
A thick oak board is prepared for this purpose with wooden pegs;
the fish is opened, spread, and laid on the board, and secured with the
pegs; the plank is then placed before a clear fire, the end resting in a
shallow iron pan, with a little salt and water, with which, the toasting
7-1
ix the kitchen.
fish is basted; when almost cooked, baste with butter also. In serv-
ing, add a little walnut catsup to the gravy; pour it over the fish, and
garnish with pickled walnuts.
POTTED SHAD.
Cut the fish in pieces to suit the jar, pack them closely, and
sprinkle over each layer a little of this mixture: A teacupful of salt,
a tablespoonful of black pepper, a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper and
one of cloves, two teaspoonfuls of allspice and two of mace, all well
pulverized. Do this until the jar is filled, then cover the whole with
vinegar, cover the jar with a cloth, and put a piece of dough over the
cloth to prevent the steam from evaporating. Bake in a moderate
oven.
SCALLOPED FISH.
Two pounds of cold boiled fish.
Half a pound of butter.
Two ounces of flour.
One pint and one gill of milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne.
One nutmeg.
The yolks of four eggs.
Take the bones and the skin from the fish, and pick it up in bits
about an inch long and half the thickness of the little finger. Scald
one pint of the milk over boiling water, and add the flour mixed
smooth with the remainder of the milk; let it cook until thicker than
boiled custard; take it from the fire, and immediately whip in the
beaten yolks, the butter, cayenne, salt, and half of the nutmeg.
FISH. 75
Butter a baking-dish and make in it first a layer of the dress-
ing, then of the fish, and so on until the dish is full, letting the last
layer be of the dressing; cover it with grated bread, and grate over
it the other half of the nutmeg. Bake three quarters of an hour
in a moderate oven; too much heat will make the fish dry.
COLLARED EEL.
Skin the eel, cut off the head and top of the tail; split ft down the
belly from end to end; remove the back-bone; lay it flat like a ribbon;
wash, drain, and dry with a napkin; sprinkle the inner surface through-
out with salt, ground pepper, and allspice; grated nutmeg also, if
approved, and a little chopped parsley or sage.
Roll the eel very tightly together, beginning at the broadest end,
until you reach the tail. Tie it around in several places very tightly,
with broad tape; put it in a covered earthen pot, cover well with
vinegar and water, throw in a little salt, whole pepper, cloves, and a
bay-leaf; bake in a slow oven; when done, keep it covered with the
liquor. It may be served whole, or sliced, when cold, after removing
the tape. !
BROILED EELS.
Clean, skin, and split them; broil them over a clear fire; season
with pepper, salt, and a little butter.
TO FRY BLACK BASS.
A Canadian Receipt.
Cut off the head; make four incisions in the skin, the entire length
of the fish, above, below, and down each side; take off the four strips
7G IX THE KITCHE5T.
of skin ; open and clean the fish ; remove the back-bone, separating the
two sides of the fish; cut in pieces, across, from two to three inches in
width; sprinkle them with salt and pepper, roll in oatmeal, and fry.
TO FRY SMELTS.
Select small fish of uniform size; put one teaspoonful of salt and
half as much pepper in half a pint of sifted corn-meal; roll the fish in
it, then lay Micm on the frying-basket, and fry in deep lard, so hot that
the surprise will be at once effected. They are in this way cooked
quickly and dry, but not brown. A coating of egg and then of very
finely grated bread insures a rich brown crust, better adapted, however,
to larger fish. '
SALMON OUTLETS.
Cut the slices one inch thick, and season with pepper and salt;
butter white paper, lay each slice in a separate piece, and twist the
ends ; broil gently over a moderate fire, and serve with anchovy or
caper sauce.
FISH STEAKS.
From fish of any kind take off the skin, cut the flesh from the
bones, chop it fine, and add from- one third to half its bulk in bread
crumbs, which must be softened in hot cream; season with pepper, salt,
and grated onion; add the beaten yolks of one, two, or three eggs
(sufficient to bind the whole together) ; mix thoroughly; make into balls
twice the size of an egg, flour them, then flatten to the thickness of
rather a thin steak, and lay them on a buttered paper in the dripping-
pan ; cover with grated bread and chopped parsley mixed, and as they
cook, baste occasionally with melted butter. Serve with this gravy poured
FISII.
77
over them. Brown two ounces of butter in a tin cup or basin and stir in
two and a half even tablespoonfuls of flour ; mix well, and add half a pint
of boiling water; boil until it thickens; season with half a teaspoonful
of salt and catsup or Worcestershire sauce to the taste, and a little
lemon-juice if liked.
PICKLED SALMON.
Half an ounce of whole pepper.
Half an ounce of allspice.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two bay leaves.
One pint of vinegar.
One pint of water, or of the liquor in which the fish was boiled.
After the fish comes from the table, remove the bones and lay it in
a deep dish. Boil the vinegar and other ingredients ten minutes ; pour
it over the salmon; cover, and in twelve hours it will be fit for use. If
the fish were steamed instead of boiled, boil the bones for a few minutes,
and use the water with the vinegar, unless plain water is preferred.
DRIED SALMON.
This is very nice, cut in thin slices, and served cold like chipped
beef; it may also be broiled ; wash it in cold water, and lay it on the
gridiron over bright coals; turn it, and when hot throughout, lay it on
a platter; cover it with small bits of butter, and a little pepper, and
serve.
TO FRY STURGEON.
Boil the fish, and when cold cut it in slices half an inch thick; beat
two or three eggs and season them with salt, pepper, and a little minced
i8
IX THE KITCHEX.
parsley; dip the fish in this, and then in grated bread; fry it a rich
brown. The best way for frying this and other fish is on a frying-
basket in deep lard. The egg in which the fish is dipped must be highly
seasoned and the bread almost as fine as corn-meal.
STEWED STUKGEON.
DUDDINGTON.
Boil five pounds of sturgeon, well covered with water, to extract
the oil. (This is necessary whether the fish is to be baked, fried, or
stewed.) To one quarter of a pound of butter, add red and black pep-
per, mustard, salt, and vinegar to the taste; when the ingredients are
well incorporated, stir in the sturgeon, which having been boiled until
perfectly tender, is picked very fine ; heat the whole together and serve
very hot. The above dressing may be used for baked sturgeon. Stur-
geon cutlets may be seasoned with pepper, salt, and mace, dipped in
the beaten yolk of an egg, then in grated bread or corn-meal, and fried.
SCOTCH "FISH AND SAUCE."
Of any fish that is nice for stewing, take the head, fins, and tail,
cover them with cold water, and let them simmer half an hour; strain
the stock, take what is required, thicken it slightly. with flour mixed
smooth in a little cold water, and season with butter, salt, and chopped
parsley; pour it over the fish, which must be cut in regular pieces, and
stew gently until tender.
MACKE2EL A LA MAITEE D'HOTEL.
Make a deep incision on either side of the back-bone of a fine mack-
erel, after thoroughly cleaning and drying it in a cloth, and put in a
FISH.
79
little salt, cayenne, and a spoonful of butter; spread it on a well-heated
double gridiron, rubbed over with butter or suet; place the inside of
the fish towards the fire, and when of a nice brown color, turn the back.
When done, put in the incisions two tablespoonfuls of Maitre d'Hotel
butter (see page 190) , put the mackerel on a hot dish, and spread three
more spoonfuls of butter over it. Place in the oven a few minutes, and
serve very hot.
The following is sent from a lady in Mississippi, who highly recom-
mends it.
TO FRESHEN SALT FISH.
"Many persons who are in the habit of freshening mackerel, or
other salt fish, never dream there is a rigid and a wrong way to do it.
Any person who has seen the process of evaporating going on at the
salt-works knows that the salt falls to the bottom. Just so it is in the
pan, where your mackerel or white fish lies soaking, and as it lies skin
down, the salt will fall to the skin, and there remain; when, if placed
with the flesh side down, the salt falls to the bottom of the pan, and the
fish comes out freshened as it should be."
TO FRESHEN CODFISH.
"Wash the fish thoroughly; then heat it in the oven (this makes it
so soft that it is easily picked), pick it fine, put it in a saucepan, cover
with cold water, and let it heat gradually; drain it and pour on fresh
water; this may be repeated if still too salt. Codfish may also be
freshened before it is picked; cover the piece with cold water, and
leave it to heat gradually ; when it boils, the fish will part easily from
the bone; take it out, pick it fine, and if too salt, freshen it as di-
rected above.
80 IN THE KITCHEN.
SALT MACKEREL STEWED WITH CREAM.
Mr. Jaque.
Soak the mackerel all night in warm water; cook it fifteen minutes
in a shallow pan with water to cover it; drain, cover with milk or cream ;
when sufficiently cooked, lay the mackerel on a platter; thicken the
gravy with flour, rubbed smooth with a little butter, add pepper, and
pour it over the fish.
BROILED MACKEREL.
Choose the whitest fish; wash well, and soak, over night; if very
salt, change the water early in the morning; ten minutes before break-
fast, dry it in a towel, and broil it on both sides, before a clear fire; put
some bits of butter and a little pepper over it, and serve.
CODFISH FOR BREAKFAST.
Three quarters of a pound or one quart of finely-shred codfish.
One ounce of butter.
Three gills of cream or rich milk.
Two even tablespoonfuls of flour.
Two thirds of a teaspoonful of pepper.
One egg.
The fish will be much more easily picked if heated in the oven.
Be very careful to remove every bone; lay it in a frying-pan, well
covered with cold water; let it heat gradually, and simmer ten minutes;
drain it; add the pepper, butter, and the cream, reserving half a gill for
the flour, which must be poured on it gradually, while the flour is rubbed
smoothly in; when the cream simmers add the flour, let it boil two or
PISH.
81
three minutes, then stir in the well-beaten egg, and serve immediately.
Garnish with points of dry toast.
CODFISH CROQUETTES.
One pound and three quarters of mashed potato.
Ten ounces of picked codfish.
Four ounces of butter.
One gill of cream or rich milk.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
One egg.
Fine bread crumbs.
Melt the butter in the hot potato; add the fish, pepper, and cream;
mix thoroughly, and make into round or oval balls, roll them in the
beaten egg, and then in the bread crumbs, which must be very fine ; lay
them on the fi-ying-basket; sink it in deep hot lard, having tried its heat
with a bit of bread. When the croquettes are a beautiful golden brown
lift the basket, let it drip for a moment, then serve on a napkin. Should
there be a delay in serving, keep them hot on a brown paper, in the
mouth of the oven. This quantity will make eighteen good-sized cro-
quettes.
MARY'S CODFISH FOR FRIDAY'S DINNER.
One quart of picked codfish.
One pint of bread crumbs.
Half a pint of cream.
Four ounces of butter.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Wash the fish thoroughly, then soak it over night in cold water.
Wheij, ready to use pick it fine; put it in a baking-dish in layers, with
6
82 IN THE KITCHEN.
the crumbs and the pepper (adding a little mustard if liked) ; over
the upper layer, which must be of crumbs, spread the softened butter;
pour the cream over the whole, and bake half an hour. Milk may be
used instead of cream.
CODFISH AND POTATO MOULDED AND BKOWNED.
One pound and three quarters of mashed potato.
Ten ounces of picked codfish (see page 79 ).
Four ounces of butter.
One gill of cream or rich milk.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
The yolk of one egg.
Fine bread crumbs.
Melt the butter in the hot potato, add the fish, pepper, and cream;
mix all thoroughly together; butter a tin mould (this quantity is
sufficient for a quart mould), fill it evenly, leaving no spaces; let it
stand in the oven ten minutes ; then turn it out on a sheet-iron frying-
plate (see page G7), cover it with the yolk of the egg and bread
crumbs, wiping ofi" all that fall, on the plate; sink it in hot lard (having
tested the heat with a bit of bread) deep enough to cover it, and when
it is a beautiful brown, lift the plate, pass a knife under the form, and
slide it carefully on a platter. Garnish with curled parsley.
Codfish may be served with or without browning, and it may be
browned in the oven covered with egg only. A deep-red beet, boiled
very tender and chopped, is a good addition, and egg sauce, with all of
these preparations, is excellent.
FISH. 83
CELIA'S SUCCESS.
A quarter of a pound of butter.
One quart of cream or milk.
Two pints of fresh cod, boiled, and picked from the bones.
One pint of boiled potato.
Three even teaspoonfuls of salt.
One even teaspoonful of white pepper.
Put the fish and potato in a wooden bowl, with the salt and pepper,
and pound and mix them with a pestle until thoroughly incorporated;
stir in the cream, put the whole in a baking-dish, smooth the surface,
cover with the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake one hour.
GERMAN MODE FOR SMOKING HERRING (PICKLLTOE) FOR PRESENT USE.
W. F. M.
String fresh herring through the mouth on a stick (those with the
roe are decidedly the best), and smoke them twelve hours. They are
delightful for lunch or tea with bread and butter.
TO FRY FRESH COD OR HADDOCK
W. F. M.
Cut the fish across, entirely through, in pieces three inches wide;
season well with pepper and salt, roll in corn-meal, and fry in hot but-
ter and lard.
TO FRY BROOK TROUT OR ANY OTHER SMALL FISH.
W. F. M.
Clean the fish, and let them lie a few minutes wrapped singly, in a
clean dry towel; season with pepper and salt, roll in corn-meal, and
fry in one third butter and two thirds lard; drain on a sieve, or on
coarse brown paper, and serve hot.
84 IN THE KITCHEN-.
Salmon spiced, or simply canned, is very good served for tea/with
a mayonnaise dressing.
CRABS FARCIES.
Pick all the meat from a good-sized boiled crab, chop or cut it
into very small pieces; mix it with rather more than a quarter its
weight of bread crumbs; season with pepper, salt, and butter, and
return it to the shell ; squeeze in lemon-juice, and put a thick layer of
bread crumbs on the top, with small bits of butter laid over them;
place the shells in the oven to brown the crumbs. Serve on a napkin
garnished with lemon and parsley.
SOFT CRABS FRIED.
Open and remove the sand-bag and spongy substance; wash well,
and wipe; season them inside and out with salt and cayenne pepper,
then close, and fry a light brown in fresh butter and lard. Or they
may, when seasoned, be dipped in beaten egg, then in grated bread, or
finely-rolled and sifted cracker, and fried in deep lard.
STEWED OYSTERS.
Drain and wash them, taking out every particle of shell; boil and
skim the liquor; add sufficient hot cream to make the desired quantity
of soup, to a pint of which there must be two even tablespoonfuls of
flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. If milk is used instead of
cream, rub an ounce and a half of butter with the flour; season with
pepper, salt, and mace, if liked; when very hot, put in the oysters, and
serve as soon as they are puffed and curled. If preferred, the oysters,
when washed and drained, may be stewed in hot milk, without any
FISH. 85
of their own liquor, seasoned as above, and thickened with rolled
cracker.
STEAMED OYSTERS.
Leave a covered dish where it will heat; wash and drain the
oysters, put them in a shallow tin, and place it in the steamer; cover,
and leave it over boiling water until the oysters are puffed and curled.
They may be dressed at table when eaten, or butter, salt, and pepper
may be added in the kitchen, when served in the heated dish.
SQUIZZLED OYSTERS.
Drain the oysters in a colander; put them in a hot frying-pan with
pepper and salt; put two ounces of butter in a platter over the steam
of a kettle, and when the oysters are puffed, pour them into the melted
butter and serve. This dish may be varied by adding cream to the
oysters in the pan, and serving them on toast.
BOILED OYSTERS.
Take oysters in the shell; wash them perfectly clean, and put them
in a small willow basket; plunge it in a kettle of boiling water, and
when the shells open lift the basket, and serve the oysters at once on
the half shell.
FRIED OYSTERS.
Use the largest; drain, rinse, and remove all bits of shell; roll
crackers until fine as corn-meal ; season with salt, pepper, and a little
mace, and roll every oyster in it separately. Have ready some hot
butter and lard in a frying-pan ; put in a layer of the oysters, and as
86 IN THE KITCHEN.
soon as browned turn them over, brown the other side, and serve. Or
dip the oysters in the beaten yolk of egg, well seasoned, and then in
corn-meal; lay them on the frying-basket and plunge it in deep hot
lard, having first tested its heat. Serve with a garnish of parsley.
BROILED OYSTERS.
Choose the finest; wash, and dry them in a towel; season with pep-
per and salt, and lay them in a folding broiler, made of small wires
near together; place it over a clear fire and turn it as the oysters cook;
when done, serve immediately with small bits of butter, and season with
pepper and salt.
OYSTERS.
Bay City.
String the oysters on a wire bent like a hair-pin, putting first an
oyster, then a thin slice of pork, and so on, until the wire is filled; then
fasten the ends of the wire into a long wooden handle; broil before
the fire. Serve the oysters without the pork, using only a little pepper
for seasoning.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
One pound of grated bread or dried biscuit.
Half a pound of butter.
Three pints of second-sized oysters (the kind sold without the
liquor) .
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
A small nutmeg.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
Drain the oysters, and lay them in a towel; mix the grated nut-
FISH. 87
meg, pepper, and salt thoroughly together, and use them from a fine
sifter. Take two tin baking-dishes holding a little over one quart each;
put bits of butter in the bottom, then a layer of bread, then of oysters laid
in one by one; sprinkle lightly with the nutmeg, etc.; then another layer
of bread and butter, and one of oysters; have three layers of oysters in
each dish, and let the upper layer be of bread thickly spotted with butter;
bake twenty minues. Serve on a plate, concealing the basin with a
folded napkin.
OYSTER PEE.
Make a rich oyster stew; put it in a baking-dish, and cover with
puff paste, prettily ornamented with leaves or diamonds cut from the
same. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven.
OYSTER PATES.
In puffs made of rich pastry, put two or three oysters stewed in a
dressing of rich cream ; cover with a round of the pastry, and serve.
Both puffs and oysters must be hot.
OYSTER LOAF.
Cut a round piece, five inches across, from the top of a nicely-baked
round loaf of bread, remove the crumb, leaving the crust half an inch
thick ; make a rich oyster stew, and put it in the loaf in layers sprinkled
with bread crumbs ; place the cover over the top, cover the loaf with the
beaten yolk of an egg, and put it in the oven to glaze. Make a wreath
of curled parsley on a platter, with the stems turned in, and place the
loaf on them, concealing all but the leaves. Serve very hot
88 IX THE KITCHEN.
OYSTERS CACHEES.
Have a kettle of deep lard heating. Season mashed potato with
butter, white pepper, salt, and a very little cream, not enough to soften
it. Have ready some oysters dressed with cream, pepper, salt, and mace ;
there must be but little gravy with them, and that little, quite thick;
after thickening it with flour (two even tablespoonfuls to half a pint)
stir in, whilst boiling hot, the beaten yolk of an egg, but do not suffer
it to boil again. Rinse a tin mould with cold water, and line it with
the potato, nearly an inch thick; fill with oysters to within an inch of
the top ; cover with potato pressed down evenly, then turn it from the
mould on the frying-plate (see page 67), cover with the beaten yolk
of an egg, and then with bread crumbs; plunge it in the hot lard, hav-
ing first tested the heat, and when a light brown, lift, slide it on a hot
platter, and serve, garnished with parsley. The browning may be dis-
pensed with, and a rich drawn butter poured over the mould.
OYSTERS EN BARRIERE.
One quart of oysters.
One ounce of butter.
One and a half pints of well-seasoned mashed potato.
Half a pint of rich cream.
Two even tablespoonfuls of flour.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of mace.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
One egg.
Make a miniature wall of the potato, around a platter, just inside
the rim; it should be from one to two inches high, and about an inch
FISH.
89
wide; it maybe flattened at the top, or higher, in the centre, and sloping
on both sides; make it as regular as possible, and smooth it with a
knife. With a small swab of linen, cover it with the beaten egg; put
it in the oven to heat and glaze. Put the cream, butter, mace, pepper,
and one teaspoonful of salt over' hot water; mix the flour smooth in a
little of the cream, and when the latter is hot, stir it in, and let it cook
until thickened. Put the oysters in a saucepan with the rest of the salt,
and let them stew in their own liquor until plump; shake them about,
that any scum adhering to them may rise to the top; pour it off, and
drain them well in the colander; throw them in the hot cream, and serve
immediately, within the potato.
If milk is used instead of cream, add another ounce of butter, and
half a tablespoonful more of flour.
OYSTER CROQUETTES.
Take the hard end of the oyster, leaving the other end in nice shape
for a soup or stew; scald them, then chop fine, arid add an equal
weight of potato rubbed through a colander; to one pound of this, add
two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pep-
per, half a teaspoonful of mace, and half a gill of cream. Make in small
rolls, dip in egg and grated bread; place them on the frying-basket,
and fry in deep lard, which should be hot enough to brown a bit of
bread an inch square in one minute.
OYSTER OMELETTE.
Chop from twelve to fifteen fine large oysters; mix with as much
flour as can be taken up in a teaspoon, milk enough to make it the con-
90 IN THE KITCHEN.
sistency of cream, and add this, with two ounces of melted butter, to
six well-beaten eggs, with pepper and salt to the taste ; stir in the oys-
ters ; fry, and fold like an ordinary omelette.
PICKLED OYSTEM
Half a gallon of oysters.
One ounce of whole pepper.
Two ounces of salt.
Three blades of mace.
Vinegar.
Put the oysters in a kettle with their own liquor and the salt; let
them cook until the edges curl, drain them, and cover with cold vine-
gar ; throw in the pepper and mace, broken in small bits.
FROZEN OYSTERS.
These are esteemed a great delicacy. Leave them where they will
freeze ; open, and serve them on the half shell, when they may be sea-
soned to the taste.
The following receipts are from Mr. John Savage, of Bay City,
Michigan.
TERRAPINS.
Terrapins must be boiled and picked. They are " diamond backs,"
and sold in the market by counts, which are so called from the width
of . the bottom shell, each count measuring three inches. Any terra-
pin that will go a count is a female, and of course is preferred, for being
more tender, and on account of the eggs.
FISH. 91
Throw the terrapin into scalding water, with a little salt. When
boiled, after cooling, the under shell becomes detached. The only
things to be taken out of the terrapin are the gall and sand-bag, which
are near together, about the centre of it. The contents of the shell are
broken up, and a small quantity of Madeira wine, pepper and salt, added
to tha taste. Serve hot.
The gentlemen at the " Ducking Clubs " on the Chesapeake have
a style which is greatly appreciated by those who have tried it. After
being boiled, the bottom shell is detached, gall and sand-bag removed,
the meat detached from around the shell, and well broken up, dressed
with wine or brandy, or as the possessor of each separate terrapin may
prefer. Put in a small piece of butter, and cracker, or breaci-dust on
top, and bake in the shell. This is considered by connoisseurs as the
only way in which the full flavor of the terrapin can be obtained.
TO BOIL AND TAKE LOBSTER FROM THE SHELL.
Put the lobster in boiling water, and when done, first disjoint the
claws, then crack them with a hammer; cut the lobster in half, length-
wise. It can be served this way at the table, and picked with a fork, or
it may be prepared in the kitchen. The dressing is the same as for
chicken salad or olio.
I0BSTER A LA DABNEY.
Pick the meat (not as fine as for salad) from two good-sized boiled
lobsters, leaving with it some of the soft, bony parts; put a quart of
milk over boiling water, reserving a gill to mix with the same measure
of flour; when the milk is scalding, stir this in, season highly with cay-
92 IN THE KITCHEN".
enne pepper and salt, and stir until the flour is cooked ; then pour it on
the lobster; mix well (the mass should be much softer than lobster
salad) ; put in a baking-dish, cover with grated bread, dot it with bits of
butter, and let it brown in the oven.
TO ROAST A PIECE OF TURTLE OR TORTOISE.
Professor R. Bradley, op thb University of Cambkidge, axd Fellow of the Royal
Society, London, 1753.
Take a Piece of the Flesh of about five or six Pounds, and lay it
in Salt and Water two hours; then stick a few Cloves in it, and fasten
it to the Spit; baste it at first with Wine and Lemon-juice, and when it
is near enough, dredge some Flour over it with the Raspings of Bread
sifted, and then baste it well either with Oil or Butter, strewing on,
from lime to time, more Flour and Raspings, till it is enough; then take
the Liquor in the Pan, and pouring off the Fat, boil it with some Lemon-
peel and a little Sugar and Salt, and pour it over the Turtle. Serve it
hot.
A WHITE FRICASSY OF FROGS.
From Mr. Gajteau.
Cut off the Hinder Legs? strip them of the Skin, and cut off the
Feet, and boil them tender in a little Veal Broth, with whole Pepper
and a little Salt, with a Bunch of Sweet Herbs and some Lemon-peel.
Stew these with a Shallot, till the Flesh is a little tender; strain off the
Liquor, and thicken it with Cream and Butter; Serve them hot with
Mushrooms pickled, tossed up with the Sauce. They make a very good
Dish, and their Bones being of a very fine Texture, are better to be
eaten than those of Larks.
fish. 93
FROGS W A BROWN FRICASSY.
From the Same.
Prepare the Frogs as before, flour them well, put them into a Pan
of hot Lard, and fry them brown, then drain them from the Liquor, and
make a Sauce for them of good Gravy, some Lemon-peel, a Shallot or
two, some Spice beaten, a Bunch of Sweet herbs, an Anchovy, some
pickled Mushrooms and their Liquor, and some Pepper and Salt. Toss
up these thick with Butter, and pour the Sauce over them, and some
Lemon-juice. Garnish with broiled Mushroom Flaps, and Lemon
sliced.
STEWED TERRAPIN.
New York. Mks. F. B. C.
Put two terrapins in hot (not boiling) water for two minutes, take
them out, rub off the outer skin from the legs and neck; return the
terrapins to the kettle and boil them until they can be taken easily from
the shell; this will be in an hour and a half or two hours according to
the size. Open the shell at the side, take out the two sand-bags and
the gall, which lies above the largest lobe of the liver; cut off the toe-
nails and the head; cut the remainder in pieces, and put them in a sauce-
pan with a dessertspoonful of allspice, half a teaspoonful of ground
mace, a teaspoonful of black pepper, a little cayenne pepper, and salt to
the taste. Let it stand half an hour; then add a quarter of a pound
of butter, in small bits, one quart of milk, and more spice if desired;
put it on the fire, and when it simmers add a gill and two even table-
spoonfuls of flour, rubbed smooth with a quarter of a pound of butter;
mix well and let it simmer half an hour or more, but do not allow it to
boil. A few minutes before serving, add one gill of sherry and pour
another in the dish in which the terrapin is to be served; stir well and
serve at once.
94 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL REOEDPTS. 95
96 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 97
98 FOR ADDITIONAL KECEIPTS.
CARVHSTG. 99
CAEVING.
C. D. M.
" Let 's carve him as a dish fit for the gods,
Not hew him as a carcass fit for hounds."
One who is born with no mechanical genius should never torment himself or distract his
family by attempting to carve; the office should be assumed by some one of the household more
favored of the gods, who may, by daily practice and close attention, soon become a proficient
in the art.
To save strength, time, and patience, a very sharp knife is an absolute necessity; it is im-
possible to cut thin, beautiful slices without it. As a general rule cut across the grain.
A turkey should be placed with the head towards the right hand of the carver. The breast
is generally cut in slices parallel with the breast-bone; but if the turkey is large, take off the
wings close to the body, and cut the breast across. Duck and grouse should be cut from the
wing joint backward through the second joint, taking wing, breast, and leg in one section. A
roast pig running off with an ear of green corn in his mouth, his head towards the left hand of
the carver, should be cut lengthwise through the back-bone, then in cross sections; the head,
which may be first taken off if preferred, is out in the same way. The arrangement of the meat
on the plate, like that of flowers or dress, is a matter where taste is appreciated and usefully
brought in. As to quantity, serve according to the Pickwick rule, — "Wary, as appetites
wary."
POULTRY.
THE MOST APPEOVED WAY OE BILLING CHICKENS.
Catch them quietly as possible, that they may not be bruised ; tie
the feet together; hang them on a horizontal pole; tie the -wings to-
gether over the back with a strip of soft cotton. When they have hung
five minutes, take a very sharp knife and cut off the head, or simply cut
the throat; then let them hans: until the blood has ceased to drip.
To make a fowl tender, give it a tablespoonful of vinegar half an
hour before killing.
100 IN THE KITCHEN".
to mms A FOWL,
Cross the last joint of the wing above the first joint, and skewer
them close to the body ; cut off" the entire neck, having drawn back the
skin an inch or two. Near the Pope's nose, each side of the opening
made for drawing the fowl, make two incisions, into which by pressing
back the legs very gently and perseveringly, the ends may be slipped,
and their unsightliness concealed. Stuff this part of the fowl sufficiently
to preserve its form; then sew it with soft tidy cotton. Stuff the breast
of the bird through the neck, tie the skin, lap it under, and skewer it to
the back.
TO CUT A CHICKEN FOR FRYING, OR FOR A FRICASSEE.
Cut the neck from the body, then the wings, and then the legs ;
cut the body in two, lengthwise, through the sides. A very small fowl
requires no more cutting; a large one should have the second joint and
drumstick separated, and the breast maybe cut across, leaving the "wish-
bone "in one part. The neck may be stewed with the fricassee, but not
served.
There is another way which makes a very pretty dish: Take off the
back, and divide the remaining part into four equal pieces by cutting
through the centre of the breast lengthwise and across.
The liver is nice in a fricassee, but the gizzard and heart are better
in the soup-kettle; or in cold weather they may be kept to stew and
mince for the gravy of a roast chicken.
BOILED CHICKEN.
Two chickens.
One quart of loose bread crumbs.
POULTRY. 101
Two ounces of butter.
One teaspoonful of celery seed.
Haifa teaspoonful of pepper.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
Stuff the chickens with the above ingredients mixed thoroughly
together without water; bind them closely with strips of cotton two
inches wide, and put them in the soup-kettle with four quarts of cold
water (see Chicken Soup, page 40). When boiled, serve with rice piled
around them, and a rich drawn butter poured over them.
TO ROAST CHICKENS.
When nicely dressed, rub the inside with an onion, then stuff them
with dry bread crumbs, well-seasoned with butter (one ounce for a
fowl), pepper, salt, and a little thyme or marjoram., if liked. Do not
wet the bread, as the stuffing is far more tempting when it crumbles in
the carving than when in a solid mass, that must be sliced. Put in
sufficient stuffing to preserve the form of the fowl. Place the chickens
in a dripping-pan, with a small quantity of water; spot them with small
bits of drippings, and put them in a quick oven; watch them very
closely, and baste often, to prevent their becoming dry. Allow three
quarters of an hour for baking. Have the giblets (gizzard, liver, and
heart) boiled tender, and chopped fine for the gravy, which must be
made when the chickens are roasted. If there is nrach fat in the drip-
ping-pan, pour it off; if not enough gravy, add boiling water; season
with pepper and salt, thicken with flour (two even tablespoonfuls to
half a pint) ; stir in the chopped liver, etc., and let it simmer a few
minutes. In serving, place the chickens side by side, with the heads in
the same direction; pour a little of the gravy around them, and put the
rest in the gravy-boat.
102 US' THE KITCHEN.
STEAMED CHICKENS.
Two chickens.
Three pints of water.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Rub the chickens in the inside with the pepper and salt; put them
in the steamer, and select a kettle so large that it will go nearly to the
bottom; put the water and the covered steamer in the kettle, and cover
the kettle. Allow an hour and a half for steaming, unless the chickens
are very tender. "When done, keep them hot in the steamer while the
gravy is made; then cut the chickens as for a fricassee, arrange them
on a platter, pour the dressing over them, and serve.
DRESSING FOB, STEAMED CHICKENS.
One pint of the gravy from the kettle without the fat.
Six even tablespoonfuls of flour.
One gill of cream.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of celery salt.
One teaspoonful of salt.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
Lot the gravy boil, add the salt and pepper, mix the cream gradu-
ally in the flour, and when smooth, add to the gravy. The celery, salt,
and cayenne may be omitted, and curry powder substituted, or nutmeg
may be used instead of celery salt, and the gravy may be thickened with
corn-starch instead of flour.
POULTRY. 103
AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK CHICKENS.
Stuff two chickens as for boiling1, with a little celery seed in the
dressing; truss them nicely; place them in a four-quart tin pail with a
tightly fitting cover, and set the pail in a large kettle partly filled with
boiling, water; the water should not reach more than half the height of
the pail. Cover the kettle and keep it boiling, being careful that the
water does not boil away. When ready to serve, pour off the gravy,
thicken it, and add butter if the chickens are not fat; season to the taste
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, if liked; a gill of cream may also be
added. Lay the ^chickens on a platter, pour the gravy over them, and
garnish with vegetable rice. Egg sauce (see page 201) is also very
good with chickens cooked in this way.
CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE STEW.
Prepare two chickens as for boiling, breaking the breast-bone from
the inside, or on the outside, which is easier; lay a towel, folded several
times, over the breast-bone, and give it a blow with the rolling-pin; this
makes them look plump. Put them in a stewpan with one pint of
water, and when it simmers add two ounces of butter, mixed smooth
with three quarters of a tablespoonful of flour; add one pint of sweet
corn cut very fine, the same quantity of Lima beans, and two or three
slices of fat bacon, with a little pepper and salt and cayenne; let them
stew slowly until done. Serve with the chickens in the centre and the
corn and beans around them. Do not send the bacon to table.
BRAISING.
This is a combination of stewing and browning, done in an iron
kettle with so little water that the meat browns underneath, and by
104 IN THE KrTCHEN,
means of live coals on the iron cover browns on the upper side also. As
these covers, however, are rarely found, the following mode of braising
may be substituted: —
BRAISED CHICKEN.
Two chickens, weighing about five pounds.
Six ounces of bacon.
Six ounces of celery.
One pound of turnip.
Two onions.
One and a half pints of water.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of summer savory.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of black pepper.
One third of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper.
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
Put the bacon in an iron frying-pan and let it fry slowly until much
of the fat has come from it. Have the chickens rubbed on the inside
with one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of summer savory
mixed ; truss them nicely, then lay them in the hot fat, and turn often
until they are a fine, rich brown; then place them in an iron kettle
with the sliced vegetables, summer savory, etc., and water; cover
closely, and cook slowly until tender. Lay the chickens on a platter,
with the strips of bacon over the legs and wings ; skim the fat from the
gravy and thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in
two tablespoonfuls of water. The gravy can be strained or not, as pre-
ferred.
BROILED CHICKEN.
Cut it through the back, clean, wash, and wipe it dry; spread it on
the gridiron, and cook slowly with the inside towards the fire; keep it
POULTRY. 105
so until nearly clone; the chicken cooks more thoroughly in this way,
and the surface being seared, the juice is retained. It must be nicely
browned on both sides, then served on a hot platter with a little butter,
pepper, and salt. Pigeons may be broiled in the same way.
TO FRICASSEE A CHICKEN.
Cut as directed, place in a kettle with half a pint of water, a table-
spoonful of vinegar, a small onion grated, a little pepper and salt; cover
closely, and stew gently for three quarters of an hour; then add one and
a half ounces of butter and a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley; the
moment before serving, add a beaten egg. A little nutmeg may be
used, if liked.
CHICKEN CURRY WITH C0C0ANTTT.
Mks. BltECK.
Cut the chicken as for a fricassee, put it in a saucepan with half a
pint of cold water, cover closely, and let it simmer until tender. Grate
a cocoanut, and pour over it one and a half gills of tepid water; let it
stand half an hour. When the chicken is tender, take it out, and add to
the gravy three tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth with, one and a
half ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of curry; let it stew a few
minutes; pour in, through a strainer, the water from the cocoanut; add
the chicken, let it boil once, then serve. Toasted slices of cocoanut are
also a great improvement to a curry.
FRICASSEED CHICKEN.
Two chickens weighing two and a half pounds each.
One and a half ounces of flour.
106 IN THE KITCHEN.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of cold water.
Two gills of cream.
One teaspoonful of mace.
Two teaspoon fills of salt.
One* third of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper.
One third of a nutmeg grated.
One onion.
Yolks of four eggs.
Cut the chickens, and sprinkle the pieces with the salt, pepper, and
spices; put the water in the kettle, and lay in the chicken,- the skin side
down; slice the onion over them, cover closely, and let them simmer
until done. Take out the chicken, arrange it on the platter, and keep
it hot, while the gravy is being thickened; there should be nearly a pint
of it. Rub the butter and flour smoothly together, adding a little of the
gravy to soften and help mix them; stir it in the gravy, and let it boil
two or three minutes; pour in the cream, and as soon as it boils, pour
ithe whole on the well-beaten yolks, return it to the saucepan, let it
get thoroughly hot, without boiling, and pour it at once over the
chickens.
BROWN FRICASSEE.
Cut the chicken, put it in a saucepan with barely enough water to
cover it, and stew gently until tender. Put a few slices of pork in a
frying-pan, drain the chicken, and fry it with the pork until of a fine
rich brown; take the chicken from the pan, empty it, and pour in the
broth; make a gravy thickened with browned flour and seasoned with
pepper; let the chicken simmer in it for a few moments, then serve very
hot.
POULTRY. 107
FRICASSEED CHICKEtT.
DUDDINGTOJJ.
Pour one pint of cold water over two chickens, cut in the ordinary
way; add a grated onion and thyme, sweet marjoram, pepper and salt to
the taste ; cover, closely, and let it simmer slowly until the chickens are
tender. To the pint of gravy add three even tablespoonfuls of flour
rubbed smooth with a bit of butter the size of a large egg; stir it in
well, and if liked, add a little mace and cayenne; when it has stewed
sufficiently to cook the flour, pour in a gill or more of rich sweet cream,
and when simmering, add the yolks of four eggs well-beaten, and serve
at once. This fricassee should not be prepared until dinner is nearly
ready, and should be made with great care, to prevent curdling.
PILAU.
Cut a chicken as for a fricassee, and put it in a pot with the liver,
gizzard, heart, and a slice or two of bicon, and cover with water; sea-
son with pepper and salt ; let it sfew slowly, and when done, take it
from the pot, and set it where it will keep hot. Wash half a pint of
rice, and boil it in the broth, of which there should be one pint; if there
is not that measure add water, cover, and boil until the broth is absorbed,
then uncover, and let it dry. Serve on a platter, with the chicken on
the rice.
TIMBAL.
Cut a chicken as for a fricassee; barely cover it with cold water,
and stew until tender; add half a pint of well- washed rice, and boil
until soft; take it from the fire, add the yolks of three well-beaten eggs,
and pepper and salt to the taste. Butter a baking-dish; put first a
layer of grated bread and chopped parsley, then of the fowl and rice ;
108
IX THE KITCHEN.
fill the dish in this way, and over the last layer of bread put small dots
of butter, then brown it in the oven. Any meat may be used in this
way. If there is not sufficient broth to boil the rice, a little boiling
water may be added.
CHICKEN PATE.
Mrs. Hastings.
Put half an ounce of Cooper's isinglass to soak. Cut a chicken,
as for a fricassee, cover with water, and let it simmer until the meat slips
easily from the bones. Have ready some hard-boiled eggs. Cut the
chicken in thin slices; return the bones to the water in the kettle, and
let them simmer a while, to enrich the jelly. Wet a plain mould, and
line it with thin slices of lemon and egg, then fill it, seasoning with salt,
pepper, and a little mace or nutmeg, with layers of chicken and egg,
adding now and then some small bits of boiled ham, bacon, or pork, and
slices of lemon. Season the gravy, add the isinglass, and when dis-
solved, pour it over the chicken; cover with a crust or tin cover; bake
in a moderate oven three quarters of an hour. To be served cold the
following day. Three or four eggs and one lemon may be used for
this quantity. Sliced mushrooms are an improvement to the pate, and
also thin slices of boiled red beets.
CHICKEN DRESSED WITH CHEAM.
Three quarters of a pound of cold boiled chicken.
Two gills of cold water.
Two gills of cream.
One tablespoonful of flour.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
POULTiJY.
109
Pick the chicken in bits an inch and a half long, and put it in a
saucepan; pour the water over it, and let it simmer until the water is
nearly absorbed; mix the flour smooth in a little of the cream, add the
rest, with the salt and pepper, and pour the whole over the chicken;
let it simmer, and when sufficiently thickened, serve on a platter gar-
nished with points of crisp toast. Milk may be used instead of cream,
with the addition of an ounce of butter.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
Fourteen ounces of boiled chicken, chopped fine.
Half a pint of milk.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Two even tablespoonfuls of flour.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
Mix the flour smooth in a little of the milk; put the rest over
a saucepan of boiling water, and when scalded, pour in the flour;
sprinkle the salt and pepper over the butter, and cut it in the milk ;
when like thick cream, mix it thoroughly with the chicken, and put it
aside to become cold and stiff; then make it into twelve croquettes,
from three to four inches long. Be careful that the surface is smooth;
roll them in the beaten yolk of egg, then in grated bread; lay them in
the frying-basket, and fry a golden brown in deep lard.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
Pittsburg.
Three quarters of a pound of the white meat chopped fine.
Half a pound of mashed potato.
110 IN THE KITCHEN.
Two ounces of butter.
Two tablespoonfuls of cream.
Pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste.
One egg.
Mix well, form into balls, cover with egg and grated bread, and
fry as in the above receipt.
CHICKEN AND CHICKEN JELLY.
"Where quite a large quantity of chicken jelly is required, or a sup-
ply of chicken salad is to be made, this rule will be found useful.
Nine and a quarter pounds of chicken.
Three quarts of cold water.
Cut the chickens as for a fricassee ; put them in a deep kettle, pour
the water over them, and let them heat slowly; when they boil, skim
well, cover them closely, and simmer until the meat is so tender as to
slip easily from the bone. Take out the chickens, remove the meat,
and return the bones to the kettle, where they must boil until the water
is reduced to two quarts, — one third less than the original quantity.
Strain it and put it in a cold place, that the fat may congeal on the top.
This must be taken off, and may be kept for various cooking pur-
poses.
To one quart of the jelly add the pared rind and juice of a lemon,
two even teaspoonfuls of salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and the whites
and crushed shells of two eggs; beat the whites sufficiently to break
them, but not to make them light; mix all thoroughly together; heat it
slowly without touching; let it boil five minutes, and stand a moment
to settle, then pour it through a straining cloth and place it on the
ice.
This jelly may be moulded in a basin, turned out, and broken in
POULTRY. Ill
small bits, as a rough garnish around cold roast chicken or turkey; or
cut in squares to use in ornamenting a cold beef a la mode; or it may
be moulded with the chicken, after the following rule : —
A MOULD OF CHICKEN IN JELLY.
"Wet a mould, and pour a little jelly in the bottom, about half an
inch in depth; when it stiffens, put a sprig of parsley in the centre,
spreading the leaves, and leaving the stem up; pour in a little more
half-thickened jelly, and when it hardens cut a hard-boiled egg in two,
lengthwise, and lay the halves obliquely across it; cover these with
jelly, and when hard lay in long, delicate strips of the breast of chicken,
seasoned with pepper and salt; cover with jelly to within an inch and
a half of the top; when hard, put a lining of lemon around the mould,
cut in very thin slices ; lay in more bits of chicken, fill the mould with
jelly, and place it on ice.
While filling the mould, keep the jelly in a pitcher and the mould
in a pan of ice, unless it is very cold weather, when the mould may
stand outside the kitchen window, on the sill. The jelly in the pitcher
must not be allowed to stiffen.
RISSOLES.
Puff paste.
One gill of chicken, chopped very fine.
One half gill of grated or chopped ham.
Four tablcspoonfuls of rich cream.
The grated rind of half a lemon.
A small pinch of cayenne pepper.
112 IK THE KITCHEN.
Roll out the paste, and cut it with a tumbler or with a round tin
cutter; lay some of the chicken on one half of every circle, lap the
other half over it, press the. edges- closely together, and drop into hot
lard, having first tested the heat with a bit of the paste. Serve, piled
on a small platter. This quantity of chicken is sufficient for ten rissoles.
Nutmeg may be substituted for the lemon-peel, and rissoles may be
made of veal or turkey.
ROAST TURKEY.
Clean the turkey, rub the inside with an onion, or rinse it thor-
oughly with a pint of water, in which a teaspponful of soda is dissolved,
then wash with clear, cold water; crush the point of the breast-bone
with the rolling-pin ; this gives the fowl a fine round appearance. Truss
it as you would a chicken; stuff it with bread crumbs, seasoned with
pepper, salt, any sweet herb, and two or three- ounces of butter; lay
it in the dripping-pan, spot it with lard or drippings, put three gills of
water in the pan, and baste very often. When the breast is brown, pro-
tect it with a bit of paper. Boil the giblets, chop them fine, and add
them to the gravy, which may be made in the dripping-pan when the
turkey has been taken out. If there is too much fat, pour it off before
putting in the giblets, and if too little gravy add water. Thicken and
season to taste. Pour some of it around the turkey, and serve the rest
in a boat. Fried sausage or thin slices of ham, fried crisp, may be
curled and laid around the turkey. Stewed cranberries or stewed
apples should be served with it.
BOILED TURKEY.
Follow the above directions for cleaning and trussing; substitute
oysters, chopped celery, or celery seed for the sweet herb in the dress-
POULTRY. 113
ing. Wrap the turkey in a towel ; put it in a kettle of boiling water,
and boil slowly but steadily until it is cooked, which will be from two
to three hours, unless ' the turkey is- very large. Serve with celery or
oyster-sauce according to the stuffing.
TURKEY HASH.
Cut the remains of a cold turkey, either roasted or boiled, into
shreds, large or small as preferred; put it in a stewpan with half a pint
of water; cover, and stew gently for a few minutes; season with pep-
per and salt, and thicken the gravy with a little of the stuffing if liked,
or with flour; a gill of rich cream makes it very nice; the same quan-
tity of milk will do with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth with an
ounce of butter. Add milk or water, if there is not enough gravy.
Garnish the dish with points of dry toast. The turkey may be cut in
small square pieces rather than shreds, unless very tender.
BOASTED DUCKS.
Clean and truss them like chickens. For two, make a stuffing of
half a pound of bread crumbs, three ounces of butter, one large onion
grated, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Sea-
son the ducks both inside and out with pepper, salt, and a little sage;
put them in the dripping-pan with a little water; put bits of drippings
over them, and as they cook, baste very often. Stew and chop the gib-
lots for the gravy, which must be made in the dripping-pan, after pour-
ing off most of the fat; thicken it a little and season well. Stewed
cranberries or apple should be served with them.
114 IN THE KITCHEN.
ROAST GOOSE.
Clean, and truss it; and if old, boil half an hour sewed in a cloth;
then stuff it with bread crumbs, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt,
grated onion, and sage; dot it with drippings or lard, and baste very
often while baking. The stuffing may be made of mashed potato, in-
stead of bread crumbs, with two grated onions and a teaspoonful of
sweet marjoram. Stewed apple should be served with it.
TO STEW PIGEONS.
Quarter, and put them in a stewpan with a little salt, and cold
water, less than enough to cover them; cover the stewpan closely.
"When nearly done, add a bit of butter and some pepper; when quite
done, lay them on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with flour rubbed
smooth in a little of the gravy, add chopped parsley, another bit of
butter, and a beaten egg. Cream is a great improvement. When the
gravy is made, put the pigeons in it; let them remain a few moments,
then serve.
TO ROAST PIGEONS.
Scald some parsley, chop it with the livers, mix them with a piece
of fresh butter, season with pepper and salt; put a portion inside each
pigeon; cover the breast with a slice of bacon ; roast them. Serve with
a garnish of curled parsley. Pour the fat from the dripping-pan, add
a little water to the gravy if necessary, season with pepper and salt,
ithieken it slightly, add chopped parsley, and serve in a boat.
r
PIGEONS IN JELLY.
Take some strong veal broth, which is, when cold, a stiff jelly; put
it in a pan with a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, some white
POULTRY. 115
pepper-corns, a little lemon-peel, a slice of lean bacon, and the pigeons
seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped celery; bake them, and when
done, cover closely to preserve the color. When the jelly is cold,
remove every, particle of fat, then beat into it the whites and shells of
two eggs; let it boil a moment, then strain through a thick cloth wrung
from boiling water, and laid in a sieve. When served, lay the pigeons
in the centre of the platter; break the jelly, and put it in a rough mass
over and around them.
PIGEONS W A MOULD OF JELLY.
Pick a pair of pigeons, and make them look as well as possible by
singeing, washing, and cleaning the heads thoroughly ; be very particu-
lar with the feet also, clipping the nails close to the claws; rub them in
the inside with a little pepper, salt, and chopped celery; skewer them
in a sitting position in the dripping-pan, with the feet under, keeping
the heads up as if the birds were alive ; this may be done by means of
a thread kept around the neck while roasting.
Have ready a savory jolly as above, and pour it an inch deep in
the mould designed for the pigeons; let this harden, while the rest of
the jelly is kept soft, just thick enough to pour and fill in closely. See
that no gravy adheres to the birds; place them in the mould side by
side, with the heads down, and a sprig of myrtle in each bill ; then fill
with the jelly, which should come three inches above the feet. Make
this dish twenty-four hours before using, and keep it on ice.
SAVORY JELLY TO ORNAMENT COLD MEATS.
Should this be wanted on short notice, take a pint of good flavored
stock, add one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar and a glass of white
wine, and warm them together; add half an ounce of gelatine that has
110 IN" THE KITCHETST.
been soaked an hour in cold water, and drained; stir it well in with the
whites and crushed shells of one or two eggs ; let it boil five minutes, or
until clear, without touching, then strain it in a pan which will make
the jelly about half an inch deep. Put it on the ice and when wanted
cut it iu dice, or chop it; or cut it in stars, with a small tin cutter:
GALANTINES.
Capon, duck, goose, hare, lamb, sucking pig, partridge, pheasant,
rabbit, turkey, veal, venison, and Welsh mutton, are among the things
chiefly made into galantines. The piece of meat is to be carefully
boned, seasoned inside, filled with force-meat, pieces of tongue, sau-
sage, game, bacon, truffles, etc., in layers.; sew it up, trying as far as
possible to make it retain its original form ; fasten it securely in a cloth,
and stew it slowly for some hours in a rich consomme. Let it grow
cold in the liquor, which should subsequently be reduced, clarified, and,
in the form of jelly, used as decoration for the meat; serve it upon a
white napkin. The heads of sucking pigs, hares, and rabbits should not
be boned. Hard-boiled yolks of eggs, oysters, blanched sweet almonds,
chestnuts, pistachio-nuts, foie gras, veal, garlic, bay-leaves, lemon-juice
and rind, chopped pickles, anchovies, etc., enter into the composition of
the stuffing. "When well executed, a galantine is a very handsome
dish for any kind of collation ; it is invariably served cold. If difficult
to glaze it, rasped bread may be used to mask it.
CHICKEN AND OYSTER PIE.
Cut two chickens as for a fricassee; put them in a kettle with
chopped celery, a little pepper, salt, and barely enough water to stew
them; cover, cook slowly, and when tender, drain. Take the oysters
POULTRY. 117
from a can, and put them over the fire in their own liquor, with a little
salt and pepper; let them swell, then rinse well and drain. Add to
half a pint of the chicken gravy two even tablespoonfuls of flour mixed
smooth in two tablespoonfuls of cold Avater ; let it boil and thicken ;
take it from the fire, and cut in it four ounces of butter, add half a tea-
spoonful of pepper, and salt to the taste, not forgetting that it is already
slightly salted; also a little nutmeg or mace, if liked. Place the chicken
(removing the coarser bones) and oysters in layers in a baking-dish,
pouring over each a little of the dressing, and all that remains of it over
the top; lay around the edge of the dish- a strip of paste an inch and a
half wide, and moisten it that it may adhere to the cover of paste, which
is then placed over it. Cut an opening in the centre of the cover for
the escape of the steam; bake from half to three quarters of an hour,
in a moderate oven. If leaves of paste are required for ornamenting,
arrange them on the top when it is half baked.
FRIED CHICKENS.
This is the best way of cooking young chickens : The breast must
be left whole, also the back, wing, and leg, making in all but six
pieces; the neck may go in the soup-kettle. For three chickens, have
ready a gill of flour, sifted with one and a half even teaspoonfuls of
salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper; roll the pieces separately in the
flour, and then place them in a frying-pan, in hot butter and lard, equal
parts, a third of an inch deep; as they brown, turn them. When
done, arrange them on the dish in which they are to be served, — the
breasts side by side across the centre, the backs concealed beneath ; sur-
round them with the wings and legs, and keep the whole hot while the
gravy is being made. To one pint of sweet cream add one and a half
tablespoonfuls of flour, first rubbing it smooth in a little of the cream;
113 POULTRY.
also one and a half even teaspoonfuls of salt, a third of a teaspoon-
ful of pepper, and three fourths of a gill of chopped parsley. Pour it
in the frying-pan, in which should remain two or three tablespoonfuls
of the butter and lard, with the brown particles from the chicken, which
slightly color the gravy ; let it simmer for a few minutes, stirring occa-
sionally, then pour it hot over the chicken, garnish with sprigs of pars-
ley, and serve at once. The parsley may be crisped for the gravy by
being fried before the cream is added. The skin is sometimes taken
from the chicken, improving, perhaps, its appearance, but greatly lessen-
ing the flavor. In frying a large number of chickens, use a long griddle.
MRS. B.'S CHICKENS.
Cut tender chickens as for frying; roll them in the beaten yolks
of eggs, and then in grated bread highly seasoned with chopped pars-
ley, pepper, salt, and a little mace; place them in a dripping-pan, spot
them thickly with bits of butter, add a little water, and bake slowly,
basting them occasionally. "When done, remove the chicken, and make
the gravy in the dripping-pan; add a little flour stirred smooth with a
bit of butter, and either cream or milk to make sufficient gravy, which
may be seasoned to the taste. In serving, pour the gravy around, not
over the chicken, and garnish with parsley.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
119
120 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOE ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 121
122
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
DRIPPINGS. 123
BOILING AND REDUCING.
Says Alphonse Goufle, head pastry-cook to her Majesty the Queen of England, " Do not
expect to hasten the cooking by indiscriminately heaping up the fuel. Once the boiling point
is reached, all excess of heat is wasted : you will lose the benefit of progressive cooking, with-
out expediting it. To reduce, on the contrary, a brisk fire producing quick evaporation is
indispensable."
Says Warne, " The most haste, the worst speed" is the proverb of the soup-kettle.
Says Dolby, " Modern experiments, thanks to the enlightened few who have applied the
science of chemistry to the improvement of the culinary art I have proved that water for all
the purposes of this department of cooking can but boil. That galloping bustle of the pot and
flapping of the cover, which alone satisfied the impatient, over-notable housewives of the last
age, is now proved to have been mere
"Double, double,
Toil and trouble, "
To no other end than to save a little time at an enormous expense of fuel, and thus convert-
ing excellent meat from the larder into an execrable dish for the table."
He also says, " Too rapid boiling raises the cover of the pot, and with the escape of steam
we lose the more volatile and savory particles of the meat. Skimming must be thorough and
frequent ; a little cold water accelerates the rising of the scum."
DRIPPINGS.
All the fat that accumulates in the general cooking of a family should be carefully pre-
served. In roasting meats, the drippings may be poured from the pan before the meat is en-
tirely cooked, to avoid the risk of burning. If the fat is dark-colored, mix well with about one
half its quantity of water ; boil it a few minutes and strain it ; when cold and hard, it may
be taken in a cake from the water, and the sediment scraped from the lower part. It often
occurs that a piece of meat comes from the butcher with more fat than is desirable ; this may
124 IN THE KITCHEN.
be cut in small pieces, nearly covered with water, and left to simmer until the fat is melted
from the fibre. The cleanest and whitest fat should bo kept to use instead of butter, in biscuit
and even in pastry. The drippings from beef are particularly good for this purpose ; those
from muttou are too hard to be used alone, but are a valuable addition to other fat in frying
cakes, and are also useful for greasing tins. The great virtue of " mutton tallow " in relieving
chapped lips and hands must not be overlooked ; it should be " tried " (melted and strained)
from the surplus fat of uncooked muttou, and moulded in egg-cups. Fat should be clarified as
often as once a week ; that which will not do for cooking should be kept for soap. Melt and
strain the best, after it has been clarified, into small stone crocks that can easily be kept cov-
ered, and mould the poorer quality into cakes, which must be kept in a cool, dry place.
The best way to thaw meat is to leave it in cold water ; as it thaws, it becomes coated
with ice, which is easily removed.
When it is necessary to cook a piece of mutton that has not hung long enough to become
tender, pin it in a towel, bury it in the earth, and let it remain two or three hours.
MEATS.
ROAST BEEF.
Twelve pounds. .A " tenderloin roast."
One pint of water.
One tablespoonful of salt.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Mix the salt and pepper and rub them well into the beef; lay it in
the dripping-pan with the water, and roast two hours, basting it often.
"When the beef is taken up, pour the fat from the dripping-pan, and
see that the gravy is well-seasoned; put a few spoonfuls over the beef,
and serve the rest in a gravy-boat, thickened if preferred with browned
flour. It may be garnished with small, light mounds of scraped horse-
radish, several of them around the beef, and an oval one across it.
MEATS. 125
BEEF A LA MODE.
Bone a round of beef, lard it with fat bacon; make several incis-
ions, and fill them with a savory dressing of bread, in which there is a
little chopped pork, and stuff it with the same, skewering it well to-
gether; tie it in good form wTith twine. Put some pieces of pork in
a pot, and when fried to a crisp take them out, lay in the beef, and turn
it until nicely browned all over; then add hardly enough water to cover
it, with a large onion, chopped, a sliced carrot (several carrots may be
used, with the addition of a little more water), a dozen cloves, a small
bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, and salt; cover closely, and let it stew
gently but steadily for several hours, until very tender. The water
must boil down to make the gravy rich, but be careful that it does not
burn; it may be strained and thickened with browned flour or not, as
preferred.
t
BEEF A LA MODE.
DUDDIXGTON.
Take the bone from a round of beef, and stuff it with bacon
chopped and well-mixed with twelve cloves and twelve allspice, ground,
a teaspoonful of ground mace, half a nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sweet
herbs. Bind the beef, put it in a pot and cover with water and a pint
of white wine; add four large onions and six garlic cloves, chopped
very fine, a teaspoonful of cayenne and one of vinegar, a little salt, and
a pint of mushrooms if you have them; strew over the whole about
three handfuls of grated bread, cover the pot closely, and stew gently
for six hours or more. "When the beef is cooked, take it out and keep
it hot over boiling water. Strain the gravy, skim off the fat, return it
to the pot, let it boil once, and add more seasoning if liked; pour it
126 IN THE KITCHEN.
over the beef, and serve. The round should be stuffed the night before
it is cooked.
DATTBE.
Mrs. I. E. Morse.
Get six or eight pounds of the round of beef; there is much choice
in selecting it, the second cut being generally the best. Scrape the
meat nicely, then make about a dozen slits in the beef, and into each
put a strip of bacon an inch long and a quarter of an inch thick, and
a couple of cloves; slice a large onion and sprinkle it over the roast,
also an even tablespodnful of salt, a teaspoonful of allspice, and one of
pepper; dredge the whole with flour, put in the pan a tablespoonful
of lard and half a gill of water; bake it slowly for two or three
hours, and just before sending it to table pour over the whole. a glass
of sherry.
TO BROIL A IEE¥STEAK.
It should be thick and tender; lay it on a gridiron before or over
a clear coal fire, and as soon as seared, turn it and sear the other side,
to prevent the escape of the juice; if there is then danger of burning,
the fire may be somewhat reduced by sprinkling ashes over it; turn the
steak often, and serve the moment it is cooked; have the platter hot,
and put small bits of butter, with a little pepper and salt, over the steak;
this may be garnished with fried sliced potatoes; or, with the steak in
the centre of the dish, have browned potato balls, the size of a marble,
in a pyramidal pile at each end.
This method is preferred by some: Put it on the gridiron before a
clear fire; have two ounces of butter (more, if the steak is large), with
an even teaspoonful of salt, and half as much pepper, on the end of a
hot platter; when the steak is browned on one side, lay it on the platter
MEATS. 127
and press the juice from it; return it to the gridiron, mix the gravy,
and when the beef is sufficiently cooked take it up, turn it two or three
times in the gravy, wipe the edge of the platter, and serve. Stewed
mushrooms or tomatoes may be served with it if liked, or it may be
garnished with shaved horse-radish. When the steak is broiled, many
prefer leaving it covered in the oven a few moments before serving, and
many serve it without butter.
STEWED BEEFSTEAK.
Mrs. Glasse, London.
Four and a half pounds of round steak.
One and a half ounces of flour.
Three ounces of butter.
Half a pint of oysters.
Half a pint of water.
One gill of wine.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of summer savory.
Two blades of mace.
Three cloves.
Four allspice.
One onion grated.
Mix the salt, summer savory, and pepper with the onion, rub the
beef well with it on both sides; lay it in the kettle with the water,
wine, cloves, allspice, and mace, and one ounce of the butter rubbed
with half an ounce of the flour; cover closely, and let it stew gently
until the beef is tender, then take it from the gravy, and fry it in the
rest of the butter. "When brown, lay it in the platter, drain the butter
128 IX THE KITCHEN.
from the frying-pan, then pour in the gravy through a strainer (then
should be one pint), rub the rest of the flour smooth in a little of th<
gravy, and stir it in; add the oysters, and when curled, lay them on th<
beef. If the gravy is not quite thick enough, let it boil a little longer
then pour over the whole and serve.
STEWED BEEFSTEAK, NO. 2.
The steak should be one and a half inches thick; dredge with i
little flour, and fry a few minutes until well browned, with an onior
stuck with six cloves; put both in a saucepan with a quart of water
and small bits of meat to enrich the gravy; add a little salt and pepper
cover, and let it stew slowly for three or four hours. Take it up,
remove the onion, thicken the gravy with a little flour; add butter, if
!the beef is very lean, and walnut or mushroom catsup. Pour the gravj>
over the steak, and strew over it one or two cucumber pickles, chopped
fine.
BEEFSTEAK PUDDING.
iims. Messenger.
For a large-sized pudding, take a pound of fresh beef-suet, clear-
ing it from the skin and stringy fibres; then chop it fine as possible,
sift three pounds of fine flour, adding the suet gradually, rubbing it fine
with the hands and mixing it thoroughly, adding a little salt; then
pour over it by degrees a little cold water to make a stiff dough. Have
ready eight pounds of best tender beefsteak without bone, and with but
very little fat; cut it in small pieces, seasoning them with pepper and
salt; add one or two onions finely-chopped, if liked; then roll the paste
into a large, even sheet; place the pudding-cloth in a large bowl, and
arrange the paste in it. When this is done put in the meat, with a cup
MEATS. 120
of cold water, and dredge some flour over it; then tie the cloth, leav-
ing space for it to swell; fasten the string firmly, so that no water can
get in. Have ready a large pot of boiling water, put the pudding in
it, and keep it hoiling for six or seven hours, closely covered, replen-
ishing, if needful, with boiling water.
BEEFSTEAK PUDDING, NO. 2.
Cut tender beefsteak into pieces about three inches long and two
wide; season with salt and pepper. Butter a quart basin or mould ; line
it with suet-paste, letting it lap over the edge; dredge the beef with
flour, and lay it in the mould with five or six parboiled button-onions,
a teaspoonful of mushroom-catsup, and half a gill of water. Wet the
edge that it may adhere to the cover of paste which is laid over it; tie
the mould in a cloth, and boil four hours ; serve it turned out.
BEEFSTEAK STUFFED.
Two pounds of thick steak from the round, clear of bone.
Two gills of bread stuffing, well-seasoned with salt, pepper, and
half an onion chopped, if liked.
Roll the stuffing up in the steak; wind a piece of twine around it,
securing the ends of the roll. Have ready a kettle, in which a slice or
two of pork have been fried crisp; take out the pork, and put in the
steak, turning it until it is well browned. Put in half a pint of water
and a little salt, cover closely, and boil two hours slowly; add more
water afterwards, if too dry. Unwind the string carefully, lay the beef
in a hot dish; thicken the gravy if necessary, and pour it over the meat.
To be cut in slices through the roll. It is equally nice heated over the
next day.
9
130
IN THE KITCHEN.
BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONION'S.
Cut six onions quite fine, and stew them in a saucepan with one
pint of water, two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoon-
ful of pepper; dredge in a little flour; stew until the onions are quite
soft, then add a Avell-broiled beefsteak; let it simmer about ten min-
utes, and send to table very hot.
ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
Roast the beef on a rack in the dripping-pan, or on strong skewers
laid across it; from half to three quarters of an hour before it is done,
pour the drippings from the pan, leaving only enough fat to prevent
sticking; pour in the pudding, and replace the beef. In- serving, cut
the pudding in oblong pieces, and place them around the beef.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
One pint of sifted flour.
One pint of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Put the flour in a large bowl with two thirds of the milk, the salt,
and eggs; beat thoroughly, and add the rest of the milk. This quan-
tity, if baked in an ordinary dripping-pan, makes the pudding too thin.
It may be baked in a pie-tin twelve by eight inches, and one inch deep.
If necessary, pour part of the drippings from the pan, return it to the
oven, place the pie-tin, greased with a little of the drippings, in the
centre of the dripping-pan, pour in the batter, replace the rack and
beef, and bake from half to three quarters of an hour.
MEATS. 131
BEEF PIE.
One and a quarter pounds of cold roast beef or cold beefsteak.
One ounce of flonr, rubbed smooth in two tablespoonfuls of water.
Three gills of stock or water.
Two tablespoonfuls of Chili sauce.
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
One grated onion.
Two hard-boiled eggs.
Cut the beef in small, thin bits, with but little fat. In cutting it,
if there are any ragged bits or bones, cover them with cold water, and
let them boil slowly for an hour or more, for the gravy of the pie; to
three gills of this, add the onion, salt, Chili sauce, and beef; let it sim-
mer for ten minutes, then thicken the gravy, lot it boil for a moment,
then place it where it will cool; put it in a two-quart baking-dish, in
layers with the sliced egg, cover with puff paste, make an opening in
the centre for the escape of the steam, and bake half an hour.
FEENCH STEW.
Cut into pieces three pounds of the lean of fresh, tender beef, veal,
or pork; peel and slice two quarts of ripe tomatoes; put the Avhole in a
stewpan, and season with pepper and salt; cover close, opening occa-
sionally to see how it is cooking. When the tomato is dissolved, stir
in three ounces of fresh butter rolled in. flour, and stew ten or fifteen
minutes longer, or until the meat is tender. Serve hot, garnished with
points of dry toast.
PINE STREET STEW.
Butter the lower part of an iron kettle, heat it, and place in it three
pounds of sirloin steak; watch carefully, that it does not burn, and
132 IK THE KITCHEN".
turn often until it is brown all over; then put a muffin-ring under the
beef to prevent its sticking; add two or three sliced carrots (more if
they are quite small) and a sliced onion; cover closely, and stew slowly
for an hour, or until the carrots are perfectly tender; season with pep-
per and salt; serve on a platter, with the vegetables over the beef. If
more gravy is required, add a little, water and thicken with flour; it
must be free from grease.
BEEF STEW.
Three pounds of lean beef, put in a pot, covered with water, and
placed over a moderate fire; add one quart of peeled and sliced toma-
toes, one and a half pints of sliced okra, three onions cut fine, and
half a dozen ears of corn cut and scraped from the cob; season with
salt and pepper, and add two ounces of butter. Let the whole stew
gently for four hours, or until the vegetables become a thick mass.
BEEF HASH.
Chop some cold roast beef, add a grated onion, two ounces of
butter, and some cold potatoes, chopped; season to the taste with
pepper and salt; let it simmer in a frying-pan with a little water eight
or ten minutes. It may be garnished with sippets of toast.
BEEF EN MATELOTE.
Brown two or three onions in butter; add a tablespoonful of flour,
and fry lightly; then a gill of ordinary claret, a gill of beef broth, a
few mushrooms if possible; salt, pepper, a little thyme, and two or
three bay-leaves; when all this is done, pour it over cold, sliced beef in
a saucepan, and let it simmer for half an hour.
MEATS. 133
CANNELON BE BOEUF.
One and a quarter pounds of cold roast beef, chopped fine.
A quarter of a pound of boiled ham, chopped fine.
One gill of stock, with one beaten egg.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
A pinch of thyme and summer savory.
The grated rind of half a lemon.
Work it all well together, form in a long roll, wrap in a buttered
paper, and bake for three quarters of an hour. Make a brown gravy to
pour over it, seasoned with catsup; garnish with small force-meat bafls
and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs.
BREAKFAST BEEF.
Three quarters of a pound of cold roast beef.
Half a pint of cold water.
One tablespoonful of Chili sauce.
Two tablespoonfuls of flour.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Cut the beef in small, thin bits ; let it heat slowly, with the Chili
sauce, pepper, salt, and water. Rub the butter and flour together, with
a little of the hot gravy; add them to the beef; let it simmer long
enough to cook the flour; then serve, ornamenting the dish with points
of toast.
CURRY OF COLD ROAST BEEF.
Cut some slices into rather small square pieces and dredge with flour;
slice half an onion very thin, and fry both a good brown in about two
134 IN THE KITCHEN.
and a half ounces of butter in a stewpan; pour in one gill or as much
as you may require of gravy from the meat, or gravy made from the
bones or any trimmings of the meat; add one tablespoonful of curry
powder, and let it simmer ten or twelve minutes. Serve with a border
of vice. In using the curry, it is safer to begin with a teaspoonful and
taste it before adding more.
FRIZZLED BEEF.
Chip dried' beef fine, pour boiling water over it, and let it stand a
moment; pour off the water, add butter, and fry until it curls a little;
then serve hot with a little pepper. If liked, a few eggs may be stirred
in just before serving.
DRIED BEEF DRESSED WITH CREAM.
Chip the beef thin and fine with a knife or on a potato-slicer;
measure a pint of it without pressing down ; put it in a saucepan and
pour cold water over it; let it heat slowly, and let it simmer a moment
longer if very salt; then drain off the water, add one and a half gills
of rich cream, and season with pepper. Instead of cream, the same
measure of milk may be used with one ounce of butter and a teaspoon-
ful of flour. It is very nice laid on split crackers or toast, but in this
way it requires more dressing.
THE DESPARD RED ROUND.
A round of beef weighing twenty-five pounds.
One ounce of cloves.
Three ounces of saltpetre.
Three ounces of coarse sugar.
MEATS. 135
Half an ounce of allspice.
Six ounces of common salt.
One nutmeg.
The beef should hang two or three days ; then take out the bone,
rub the spices and salt thoroughly together, and rub them well into the
beef on both sides; cover the beef, turn and rab it every day, for from
two to three weeks.
When you wish to use it, dip it in cold water to remove the loose
spice; bind it closely several times around the sides with a long strip
of cotton cloth two inches wide; put it in a pan with half a pint of
water in the bottom to prevent burning; cover the top of the meat with
shred suet, and cover the pan with a crust half an inch thick, made of
water and Graham or other flour, seeing that it adheres to the edge of
the pan. Lay a brown paper over the crust; bake it slowly for five or
six hours.
The gravy, of which there will be a large quantity, may be used in
soup, in beef pie, or in hash. The place from which the bone was
taken may be rubbed with fine chopped parsley, and sweet herbs may
be laid between the skin and the meat.
CROQUETTES.
From the Despard Eed Rouxd.
One and a quarter pounds of potato rubbed through a colander.
Ten ounces of beef.
Four ounces of stale bread or cracker.
One and a half ounces of butter,.
Half a gill of cream.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
13G EST THE KITCHEN.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Half a nutmeg.
Two eggs.
Add the butter to the hot potato, then the cream, nutmeg, pepper,
salt, and one egg; beat all thoroughly together; chop the beef very fine,
avoiding all bits of gristle; mix well with the potato, and then make
into rolls four inches long and one and a half inches through. Be
carefnl to have a smooth surface, with no breaks for the fat to pene-
trate. Place them on a floured tin, and let them lie while you "beat the
other egg on a plate, and grate the bread or roll the cracker. Which-1
ever it is, be sure that it is very fine ; sift it through a colander or
coarse sieve. Roll the croquettes first in the egg, then in the bread;
lay six of them in the frying-baskct, and plunge it in the lard, the heat
of which you have first tested with a bit of bread. When a beautiful
brown, take them out on wrapping-paper, and in a moment transfer
them to a folded napkin on a platter; then fry another half dozen, more
or less, as you require. If you have more than necessary, put them
away in a cool place, and fry them for tea.
FEIED TBIPE.
Scrape the tripe well on both sides, cut it in pieces the size of the
hand, and boil it in salt and water (allow one tablespoonful to a quart)
until very tender. The next day cut it in smaller pieces, season with
pepper and salt, and dredge with a little flour; fry brown on both sides
in a pan of hot lard. When done, take it out, pour out nearly all of the
lard, add a gill or more of boiling 'water, and thicken with a little flour
mixed smooth with a tablespoonful or more of vinegar; season to the
taste; pour it over the tripe, and serve hot for breakfast.
MEATS. 137
BEEF TONGUE BOHED.
Wash the tongue, cover it with cold water, and soak over night.
The next day put it in the kettle, cover it with fresh cold water, and
let it boil until tender; remove the skin, trim it carefully, and serve
garnished with rice boiled dry or with well-seasoned mashed potatoes,
heaped irregularly around it, or a savory jmree of dried peas. If the
tongue is to be eaten cold, leave it to cool in the water in which it
boiled; this makes it rich and juicy. When the skin is taken off, cut
it in very thin slices, and serve on a platter garnished with curled
parsley.
SPICED TONGUE.
Half a pint of sugar.
A piece of saltpetre the size of a large pea.
One tablespoonful of ground cloves.
Rub this mixture into the tongue; put it in ajar of brine, of three
quarters of a pound of salt to two quarts of water, with a weight to
keep it under; let it lie in the brine two weeks; then take it out, wash
well, and dry with a cloth.
Roll out a thin paste made of flour and water; wrap the tongue in
it, put it in a pan to bake; baste well with lard and water; bake slowly;
when done, remove the paste and skin, when it is ready to serve.
SPICED BEEF.
A five-pound piece of tender, juicy beef.
One pint of cold water.
Half a pint of vinegar.
Two teaspoonfuls of ground cloves.
One teaspoonful of allspice.
138 IN" THE KITCHEN.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two or three onions.
Mix the salt and spices, and rub them well into the beef; press it
into a deep dish, and pour the vinegar over it ; let it stand twenty-four
hours in a cool place, turning it occasionally; if it absorbs the vinegar,
add more; put it in a stewpan with the water and onions, and let it
simmer slowly three or four hours. To be eaten cold; the gravy to be
saved for breakfast dishes.
DUDDINGTON CORNED BEEF.
Twelve pounds of plate pieces.
One and a half pounds of salt.
One ounce of pulverized saltpetre.
Four quarts of cold water.
Rub the beef well with the saltpetre; lay it in a three or four gal-
lon crock; dissolve the salt iu the water, and pour over it; lay a weight
on the beef to keep it under the brine.
In two weeks it is ready to use.
DUDDINGTON CORNED BEEF, NO. 2.
To one hundred pounds of beef, one pound of saltpetre, three
pounds of sugar, rubbed on the beef. Corn it with brine that will bear
an egg.
MB,. JEWELL'S CORNED BEEF.
Sixteen pounds of beef.
One pound of salt.
One tablespoonful of saltpetre.
MEATS. 139
It is important to buy young beef. Get Opiate " or brisket pieces.
If the animal was not large and heavy, get the second or third piece
from the quarter; if heavy, the first piece is best. Have two or three
ribs iu a piece, and have the butcher crack them through the centre.
The beef should be in two pieces. Strew a large handful of salt in the
bottom of the jar; put in a piece of the beef, strew over it two or three
more handfuls of salt and half the saltpetre; then lay in the other piece
and cover it with the rest of the salt and saltpetre ; put a weight on the
beef, and pour in cold water until the crock is nearly full; the beef
must-be covered with the brine. Stir thoroxighly on each side the beef
down to the bottom of the crock; cover it, and in three or four days
the beef is ready to use. In summer it is sometimes fit for use the
second day. In cold weather the brine may be used twice, if it is sweet
and not bloody.
In cooking the beef, put it in cold water and boil slowly, from four
to five hours, or until the bones may be easily drawn out.
PIFFAKD BEEF.
One hundred pounds of beef.
Half a pound of saltpetre.
Half a pound of brown sugar.
Sixteen pounds of salt.
Ten and a half gallons of cold water.
Lay the beef in a perfectly clean, sweet cask; mix the ingredients-
thoroughly and pour over it; put a heavy stone on the meat, to keep
it under the brine. Another half gallon of water may be added. It
will be fit for use in twelve days.
140 1ST THE KITCHEN.
BOILED CORDED BEEF.
"Wash the beef, cover it with cold water, and boil slowly until tei
der, replenishing the kettle if necessary with boiling water. If a brisk<
piece, boil until the bones slip out easily. It may be served with cal
bage.
CDRNED BEEF HASH.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of chopped beef.
One pint of chopped potatoes.
Two gills of water.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Put all the ingredients in an iron frying-pan ; stir sufficiently '
mix, but be careful not to break the pieces of potato; keep it covert
until thoroughly heated; then remove the cover, move the hash to o:
side of the frying-pan, letting it nearly reach the top ; keep this side (
the hottest part of the range; when browned, pass a knife under
lay a platter on the pan, and turn it upside down. It makes a'beautif
as well as excellent dish.
A DINNER PREPARED IN- CAPT. WARREFS COOKER.
A round of beef.
Beef soup with vegetables.
Potatoes.
Pice.
Tomatoes.
Warrener's pudding. *
Rub a round of beef weighing twelve pounds with two tablespoc
fuls of salt, two teaspoonfuls of pepper, and one of summer savoi
MEATS. 141
place it on the tin lifter in the meat-chamber ; add two quarts of cold
water, four large carrots cut in two lengthwise, two large onions cut
in four; six peeled and sliced tomatoes, or half a can (more if liked),
one potato cut in four, and two tablespoonfuls of well-washed rice.
Fill the lower part of the boiler with hot water according to the direc-
tions which come with the cooker; put the two other compartments
and the cover in place, and keep it where it will boil steadily for five
and a half hours. In three hours put the pudding in the upper part in
a bag or mould; have the tomatoes prepared in an earthen mould or bak-
ing-dish, in layers with bread crumbs, highly seasoned with butter, pep-
per, salt, a grated onion, and a little sugar; give them, if canned, half an
hour for cooking; if fresh, an hour. Have half a pint of well- washed
rice in a quart basin, with half a pint of water and half a teaspoonful
of salt; and allow for this and the potatoes the last half hour. The
beef, on being taken from the cooker, should be placed in a pan, dotted
with butter or drippings, and browned in a very hot oven, whilst the
soup is being prepared and served. The fat must be skimmed from it,
and the carrots, etc., may be chopped, and more seasoning added, or the
soup maybe served without the vegetables. Reserve three gills of the
soup for gravy; thicken and season it; when the vegetables are taken
up, leave the pudding until wanted, and do not let the boiling cease;
the water requires no replenishing.
RUTGERS RQLLETJES.
Ten pounds of beef.
Five ounces of salt.
Three quarters of an ounce of pepper.
Half an ounce of ground cloves.
Tripe.
142
IN THE KITCHEN".
The beef should be sirloin, or from the best cuts, and about one
third fat. Chop it in squares about the size of dice, and mix in the salt,
pepper, and cloves. Take pieces of tripe about ten inches square, make
bags of them, and fill with the beef; sew them up and boil four hours.
Put the bags in a butter-firkin filled one third with vinegar, and the
rest with the liquor from the pot, having skimmed ofi° the fat, which
is kept for frying the rolletjes. Do not use it for a month. It will keep
all summer, by adding vinegar. When ready to use, take a very sharp
knife, cut it in slices one third" of an inch thick, and fry with unpared
slices of sour apples; serve with a little of the fat for a gravy.
This is used principally in Lent, when poultry and fresh meats are
scarce, and is considered a capital substitute for fish, soupe maigre, etc.,
by the Dutch burgomeisters.
OX CHEEK CHEESE.
From half an ox-head take out the eye, crack the side bones, and
lay it over night in water; cover it with water in a saucepan; boil
gently, and skim carefully. When the meat loosens from the bone,
take it out with a skimmer, and put it in a bowl; take out every parti-
cle of bone, chop the meat very fine, and season with salt, pepper, and
thyme. Tie in a cloth, press with a heavy weight; when cold, cut in
slices, and serve.
The gravy remaining will make a rich broth, with vegetables.
TO DEESS KIDNEYS.
• Cut all the good parts small, and lay them in salt and water for
half an hour; then wash well, put on in clean water, and boil; pour off
that water, put the kidneys on the fire again with clean water and an
MEATS.
143
onion chopped fine, butter, pepper, and salt, and stew slowly all the
evening. In the morning, warm them up for breakfast. Thicken the
gravy if desired.
KIDNEY RAGOUT.
Mrs. I. E. Morse.
Take two beef kidneys, nicely washed and well salted; cut them
into bits of half an inch each, powder them with flour, or roll them in
it, then throw them into a pan of boiling lard and cook until brown.
Scald two quarts of tomatoes, stew them in their own liquor half an
hour. When the kidneys are well browned put them in the stewpan
with the tomatoes, add an onion and a half, finely chopped, cayenne
pepper to the taste, and a little parsley. The ragout must now simmer
a couple of hours over a slow fire; should the stew be too thick a
teacupful of hot water may be added. Serve hot, with a dish of boiled
rice. In winter a can of tomatoes takes the place of the fresh vegetable.
A delicious dish is made by substituting mushrooms for the toma-
toes. It is prepared in the same way, except that the mushrooms are
added to the kidneys without being first stewed, and the ragout requires
an extra hour to simmer.
STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON.
Haxnah.
Take out the bone and fill the cavity with a stuffing made of bread
crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, a little summer savory, two ounces
of salt pork chopped fine, and a bit of butter, half the size of an egg.
Skewer the ends, sprinkle, the mutton with ateaspoonful of salt and half
a teaspoonful of pepper; lay it in the dripping-pan with a little water,
and put it in a brisk oven ; when it begins tu roast put a little butter
144 IN" THE KITCHEN.
over it, and dredge it lightly with flour. Watch it very closely; keep
an even heat, and baste it thoroughly every fifteen minutes.
Following these directions, a piece weighing six pounds will roast
in an hour and a half.
ROAST MUTTON.
. Precisely like the above, without the stuffing.
BREAST OF MUTTON.
Boil the mutton until the bones come out easily ; press it between
two plates under a weight, and let it remain over night; the next day
put the mutton in the oven, cover, and heat slowly; then chop a little
parsley, and such sweet herbs as are liked, with an onion; add an egg,
a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. Score the mutton, spread the mix-
ture over the top, and over that put grated bread and small bits of
butter; put it in the oven, and when a light brown, serve with a good
brown sauce, seasoned with pickled mushrooms.
A SMA1L LEG OF MUTTON, OR OTHER MEAT, BRAISED.
Put two tablespoonfuls of drippings in an oval iron pot; when
melted put in the meat sprinkled with a little salt. Shut down the lid
and leave it over the fire on the trivet, or low rack; shake it up from
time to time to prevent burning, and turn it over that it may cook
evenly; should there not be sufficient moisture, add a little fat; when
cooked, place the mutton on a hot dish, pour off the fat from the gravy,
add a little water or stock, thicken with flour mixed smooth in a littles
cold water (using two even tablespoonfuls of flour for half a pint of
gravy) ; season with pepper and salt or with catsup or Harvey's sauce;
MEATS. 145
boil until the gravy is thickened, then pour it over the mutton and
serve.
I EG OF MUTTON BOILED. .
Cut off the small bone at the end, leaving the meat to hide the
joint and lap under; put it in a kettle of cold water, and make it boil
as soon as possible; then boil very slowly but steadily until the meat
is cooked. Stir a gill of capers in a pint of drawn butter; put some of
it over the mutton, and serve the rest in the gravy-boat.
MUTTON OR LAMB CHOPS.
Trim them nicely; broil over a clear fire and when cooked season
with butter, pepper, and salt; serve them, slightly lapping one over the
other in the form of an oval, with the bones standing obliquely. If a
very beautiful dish is desired put a frill of white paper an inch wide
around the end of the bone; if liked, there maybe nicely-dressed toma-
to in the centre of the dish. "With lamb chops, green peas may be
served.
MUTTON STEW.
Time from two and a quarter to two and a half hours.
Fry one and a half pounds of mutton, cut in bits, fifteen minutes
in two ounces of butter; dredge over it one and a half ounces of flour,
and let it brown; then add one quart of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls
of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a pinch of summer savory,
two onions cut in halves, with two cloves stuck in each piece; cover
closely and let it simmer three quarters of an hour. Form sixteen cork-
shaped pieces of turnip with an apple-corer; they should be of uniform
length, from two to three inches ; fry them brown in one ounce of but-
ter; drop them in the stew, cover, and continue boiling an hour longer;
10
146 IN THE KITCHEN.
then drop in eight or ten potatoes, cut down to the size of a black wal-
nut. When the potatoes are cooked the stew is finished ; take out the
onion, see that the gravy is well-seasoned, pour the whole in a hot plat-
ter, a*nd serve. The bits of turnip and potato left from the cutting will
do for soup, or with a little addition may be cooked as vegetables.
ENGLISH MUTTON STEW.
Slice in thin small pieces the cold roasted or boiled mutton left
from dinner; barely cover it with cold water, add pepper, salt, and a
small bit of butter, and let it simmer a few minutes; thicken the gravy
with a little flour and brown it with browned flour; add half a tumbler
of currant jelly (one gill) and the same of port wine; simmer a little
longer and serve. This makes a very dark-colored dish.
IRISH STEW.
Two pounds of sliced potatoes.
Two pounds of scrag mutton, cut in six or eight pieces and cov-
ered with one pint of cold water.
Two sliced onions
Let it come very slowly to the boiling point; then skim well, let
it simmer one hour and a half, season to the taste, and serve.
MUTTON HARICOT.
Trim mutton chops but leave the bone ; brown them on both sides
in a hot pan with very little butter; then drop them into boiling water
deep enough to cover them, with two sliced carrots, and let them stew
until the carrots are tender; while stewing, brown half a sliced onion
MEATS. 147
in the pan where the chops were fried, and add to the carrots; season
with pepper and salt.
COLD ROAST MUTTON.
Leg of mutton.
Cloves.
Salt pork.
One pint of vinegar.
Take out the bone, skewer the mutton, and trim nicely; stick
cloves over it about one inch apart; lay it in the dripping-pan with
slices of salt pork under and over it; pour the vinegar over it, and
bake four hours slowly, basting it every twenty minutes. To be eaten
cold.
RAGOUT OF COLD MUTTON.
Three quarters of a pound of cold roasted or boiled mutton.
One pound of carrots.
One pound of turnips.
One sliced onion.
Two ounces of butter.
Two and a half gills of water.
Two tablespoonfuls of flour.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Cut the mutton in small bits, trimming off most of the fat; put the
butter in the stewpan and sift over it one half of the flour; add the
sliced onion and stir until brown; then put in the mutton; when this
is brown add two gills of water, the carrots and turnips, which must
be sliced very thin, and the pieces of turnips cut in two; add the pep-
per and salt, cover closely, and stew till the vegetables are perfectly
148 IN THE KITCHEN".
done, from half to three quarters of an hour ; then add the rest of the
flour with the half gill of water, and let it boil for a moment, when it is
ready to serve.
The proportion of mutton and vegetables may be varied.
CHRISTINES RAGOUT.
One and a half ounces of butter.
One pint of broth.
One onion, chopped fine.
Five cloves.
One and a half even tablespoonfuls of flour.
One teaspoonful of, allspice.
Two thirds of a teaspoonful of cloves.
Salt and pepper to taste.
One and a quarter pounds of cold veal or mutton.
Chop half the onion very fine, stick the cloves in the other half,
add the spices, salt, pepper, the broth and the flour rubbed smooth with
the butter; let it simmer about half an hour, then add the meat cut in
small pieces; let it simmer five or ten minutes, take out the half onion,
and serve.
This may be made of meat not previously cooked, in which case
water will do instead of broth; more time must be given, and the flour
and butter should not be added until the meat is nearly ready to. serve.
MUTTON AND POTATOES.
Three pounds of potatoes, boiled, mashed, and well seasoned.
Fourteen ounces of cold roast or boiled mutton.
Two ounces of butter.
MEATS.
]49
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Four tablespoonfuls of flour.
Half an onion, grated.
One pint of broth.
Cut the mutton into very small pieces, not much larger or thicker
than a two-cent piece ; stew the bone half an hour or more, to make
the pint of broth; strain it, and let it simmer with the mutton, onion,
pepper, and salt for ten minutes, adding the butter and flour rubbed
together, two or three minutes before taking it up. Butter the lower
part of a two-quart baking-dish, and put in a thin layer of potato, then
half of the mutton, a thicker layer of potato, the rest of the mutton,
and a last layer of potato, which must be glazed with the yolk of an
egg; bake until thoroughly heated. A similar dish may be made with
sliced instead of mashed potatoes; it is sometimes covered with a
baking-powder crust, on which it is served.
MUTTON AND TOMATO PIE.
Cover the bottom of a baking-dish with bread crumbs, then a layer
of cold roasted mutton, in thin, small slices, a layer of peeled, sliced
tomatoes, and so on, • having the last of tomatoes, covered with fine
crumbs; season every layer with pepper, salt, and small bits of butter.
Bake slowly three quarters of an hour, and serve hot.
MUTTON AND MACARONI, BEOWNED.
Boil two ounces of macaroni until barely tender ; do not let it break ;
drain, and put it by to cool.. Chop three quarters of a pound of cold
roast or boiled mutton, add one teaspoonful of curry, one and a half of
150 IN THE KITCHEN.
salt, one ounce of butter, a beaten egg, and one gill of milk; mix all
thoroughly together. Cut the macaroni in bits half an inch long, and
mix it lightly with the mutton. Butter a pie-tin, and form the whole
into a smooth round or oval mass in the centre; spread half an ounce
of butter over it and put it in the oven; when well heated cover it with
a beaten egg seasoned with a small pinch of salt and two of curry;
scatter finely grated bread over the egg, and brown it. Serve on a
platter garnished with parsley. This dish may be more highly seasoned
if preferred.
TO PBEPAEE A BREAST OF LAMB A IA EDM01JD.
Contributed by Mr. G. Mason Graham.
Boil a breast of lamb or mutton in salt and water until thoroughly
done; let it get cold; beat an egg, yolk and white together, and smear
the cold breast with it; then roll it in bread crumbs, or grated crust of
bread and bake it. Have a sauce piquante of vinegar and oil, with ouion
tops shred in it, to pour over the lamb when baked, and it is good to eat,
hot or cold.
TO CUBBY LAMB OR CHICKEN.
Lamb should be cut in chops; chicken, as for a fricassee, a pound
and a half of either; use barely enough water to stew until tender, with
half an onion sliced thin as paper. When cooked, add half a pint of rich
milk, two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of curry (more if liked), a
little salt, and two even tablespoonfuls of flour; let it simmer until the
gravy is thickened. Serve with a garnish of rice, boiled dry.
CALF'S HEAD.
Soak it four or five hours in cold water; put it over the fire in a
kettle of cold water, and when all the scum has risen and been removed
MEATS. 151
take it cff, and put the head into cold water. Dry it with a cloth, and
if required, singe it before a bright fire; take out the bones, and
remove the hard skin of the tongue; rub well with lemon-juice; tie in
a clean cloth and let it simmer in water with salt, pepper, half a glass
of vinegar, a large bunch of sweet herbs, and a clove of garlic, four
hours over a slow fire. Serve garnished with parsley.
PLAIN" BOILED CALF'S HEAD.
Soak in cold water one hour and a half, and for ten minutes in hot
water; put it in a kettle rather more than covered with cold water;
boil and skim carefully; then let it simmer until very tender. Serve
with drawn butter and parsley, and garnish with slices of lemon.
BROWNED SAVORY CALF'S HEAD.
When boiled, score the surface, and with a feather cover it with
the beaten yolk of an egg; sift over it some fine bread crumbs, with
lemon -thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt; brown it in the oven, and
when it begins to look dry, baste it with a little melted butter. Garnish
with thin slices of bacon curled.
LARDED SWEETBREADS WITH GREEN PEAS.
Draw with a larding-needle, through five sweetbreads, very small
strips of salt pork, letting them project evenly, about half an inch, on
the upper side ; put them on the fire with half a pint of water, and let
them stew slowly for half an hour; then take them out and put them
in a small dripping-pan with a little butter and a sprinkle of flour;
brown them slightly, add half a gill of milk and water together, and
152 TK THE KITCHEN.
season with pepper; heat half a pint of cream and stir it in the gravy
in the pan. Have the peas ready boiled and seasoned; place the sweet-
breads iu the centre of the dish, pour the gravy over them, and pat
the peas around them.
SWEETBREADS AND MUSHROOMS.
One dozen and a half of small, fresh mushrooms.
Five sweetbreads.
Two ounces of butter.
Pepper and salt.
Cover the mushrooms with water, cover the saucepan, and stew for
twenty minutes; take them from the water, lay in the sweetbreads,
and stew fifteen minutes; add the butter, pepper, salt, and mushrooms;
thicken a little with flour, stew for fifteen minutes, and serve.
SWEETBREADS AND MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM.
Stew equal quantities of sweetbreads and mushrooms, as in the
above rule, and when cool cut them in pieces the size of a grain of
Mocha cofiee; stew them a few minutes in a little cream, and season
with pepper, salt, and mace if liked; dredge in a little flour that the
cream may be barely thick enough to keep the whole together in a soft
mass. Serve hot in paper cases, placed on a napkin, in a platter.
To make a paper case take a piece of writing-paper five inches
square, fold down the four sides towards the centre, an inch deep, raise
them, lap the paper at the corners, and fasten it with a thorn or a clean
pine splinter half the length and size of a match. Or cut an oval, five
inches long and three and a half wide ; fold down the edge three fourths
of an inch, turn it up, and crimp it with a knife.
MEATS. 153
SWEETBREADS WITH TOMATOES,
Slice two quarts of ripe tomatoes, and stew until they break;
strain through a sieve into a saucepan, and add four or five sweetbreads
that have been well-trimmed and soaked in warm water; stir in two or
three ounces of butter, rolled in flour, with " salt and cayenne to the
taste; just before serving, add the beaten yolks of two eggs. Serve
in a deep dish, with the tomato poured over the sweetbreads.
VOL AU VENT OF SWEETBREADS AND OYSTERS.
Put three or four sweetbreads in cold water, and let them lie half
an hour or more to cleanse and whiten, then throw them into boiling
water, with some salt; let them boil fast, well-covered with water, for
fifteen or twenty minutes or until they are enough but not too much
cooked; take out, drain, cool, and set aside; when cold cut into dice;
salt, pepper, and dredge them with flour. Have in a basin two or three
dozen stewed, drained oysters, a small teacup of stewed button mush-
rooms, one dozen or more olives, pared in one piece close to the ker-
nel. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, melt, and add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring well, and pouring in stock gradu-
ally until the sauce is of a creamy consistency; season with salt, pep-
per, or cayenne, and a very little grated nutmeg; put in the sweet-
breads, stirring to prevent browning; when thoroughly heated add one
after the other, the oysters, mushrooms, and olives, and a tablespoonful
of tarragon vinegar; stir and heat up again, but do not let it boil.
Serve in the vol au vent crust (see page 378) after gently warming it.
It makes a nice supper dish, and is liked cold as well as hot.
Vol au vent may be made of oysters alone, or of lobster, fish,
chicken, chicken livers, and cocks' combs fricasseed, also with pre-
154 IN THE KITCHEN.
served fruit, served with or without the cover; if without, the fruit may
be piled in a pyramidal form, — peaches, cherries, and green melon.
COCKS' COMBS FOR VOL AU VENT.
They must be soaked several hours in cold water to bleach; then
boil until tender, drain, and set aside for use.
VEAL BOILED AND BROWNED.
Remove the lower bone from a boiled knuckle, leaving the meat to
turn under that which is on the other side of the joint. Beat the yolks
of two eggs with half a teaspbonful of salt and a pinch of pepper;
cover the meat with this, and then with grated bread, and brown it in
the oven.
Make a gravy to be poured around it, or served in a gravy-boat.
Brown an ounce of butter, stir Avith it an ounce of browned flour, and
by degrees add a pint of broth, having boiled in it the yellow rind of
half a lemon; add half a teaspoonful of allspice, one teaspoonful of
salt, a small pinch of cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon. Let it boil
until as thick as desired.
ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.
Take out the bone, and fill the cavity with a stuffing of bread
crumbs, seasoned with salt pork chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and
sweet marjoram; make deep incisions in the veal, and fill them with the
stuffing, or press into each a strip of salt pork. If a larding-needle is
at hand, strips of pork may be drawn through the veal without pre-
vious cutting. Bind it closely together with twine; put it in the oven
with a little water in the pan, baste often, and roast until thoroughly done,
remembering that no one likes rare veal. "When the veal is cooked
MEATS. 155
make the gravy in the dripping-pan, after pouring off the fat; add
■broth or water, if necessary, season to the taste with pepper and salt,
and thicken with browned flour.
VEAL CUTLETS.
Cut the veal from the round in slices about an inch thick; put it in
a frying-pan and half cover it with boiling water; cover the pan closely
and let it simmer ten minutes; take it out and when well drained dip
the pieces in the beaten yolk of egg seasoned with pepper, salt, grated
lemon-peel, and a little nutmeg, then in grated bread, and fry them in
butter and lard. "When cooked take them from the pan, pour out nearly
all of the fat, add hot water (half a pint for an ordinary dish), thicken
with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and season it, adding a little lemon-
juice. Pour the gravy over the veal, and garnish the dish with sliced
lemon. The lemon and nutmeg may be omitted if preferred.
FILLET OF VEAL, STEWED WHITE.
Choose a small, fat fillet, remove the bone, and stuff it with half
a pint of bread crumbs, well mixed with two ounces of suet, a little pars^
ley, chopped onion, lemon-thyme, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper,
and salt. Reserve some of the dressing, moisten it a little, make into
small balls, roll in grated bread, and fry in deep lard. Skewer the fillet
nicely, and put it in a kettle, with a plate underneath to prevent, its
sticking; add a carrot, and onion sliced, pepper-corns, salt, and mace;
cover with cold water, and let it stew slowly. Take it up when done,
strain a pint of the liquor for the gravy, and thicken it with four table-
spoonfuls of flour, rubbed smooth with two ounces of butter, and add
enough cream to make it a rich white. Garnish with the balls and thin
slices of lemon; pour the gravy over the veal.
156 IN THE KITCHEN.
» FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.
*
Put in a frying-pan one ounce of butter, a sliced onion and as
much carrot, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper and
the same of summer savory; lay in a slice of veal an inch thick, weigh-
ing about two pounds, closely larded with very small strips of pork;
they need not go through the veal, but must stand a third of an inch
above the upper side, and should bo clipped off evenly. Fry until
nicely browned on the lower side, then add half a pint of good stock,
and put it in the oven; baste often, and add gradually another half pint
of stock; when cooked and browned, lay it on a platter, strain the
gravy, pour it over the veal, and serve. The gravy may be thickened
if liked.
FRIGADEL.
Three and a half pounds of chopped veal.
Five small crackers pounded.
One tablespoonful of salt.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Half a nutmeg.
Three eggs.
Chop the veal very fine, add one fourth of the cracker, the salt,
pepper, nutmeg, and eggs ; if the veal is quite lean add a bit of butter
half the size of an egg, and a .tablespoonful of cream. Mix, all thor-
oughly together with the hand; form into an oval loaf, spot it thickly
with bits of butter, and strew over it the rest of the cracker; lay it in
the dripping-pan with a little water, and let it cook rather slowly for
two hours; baste it occasionally, and from time to time add a little
water, that there may be sufficient gravy. The gravy may be thickened
if desired. This is delicious when cold.
MEATS. 157
FBIED VEAL.
One and three quarter pounds of sliced veal.
Three ounces of salt pork.
Half a pint of cream.
One even tablespoonful of flour.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two thirds of a tcaspoonful of pepper.
Cut the pork in thin slices, and fry slowly until there is enough
fat in the pan to fry the veal, which may be sprinkled with the salt and
pepper, laid in the pan, and browned on both sides, cooking rather
slowly. When done lay the slices of veal on a platter, with the bits
of pork; pour nearly all the fat from the frying-pan, add the cream, in a
little of which the flour has been rubbed smooth; let it simmer a few
minutes, then pour over the veal, and serve.
FRIED VEAL BALLS.
One and a half pounds of veal chopped very fine.
Three ounces of salt pork chopped very fine.
One tcaspoonful of summer savory.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt. '
Half a tcaspoonful of sage.
Two thirds of a tcaspoonful of pepper.
Mix thoroughly with the hand; make into flattened balls, pressing
the veal closely that the surface may be smooth; roll in flour, and fry
in drippings, in the frying-pan. This quantity makes nine balls. Let
them cook slowly for half an hour. Serve on a platter, and pour over
them some of the fat from the frying-pan.
158 IN" THE KITCHEN.
PRESSED VEAL.
One pound of salt pork.
Three pounds of veal.
After weighing the pork, remove the rind and lean, and chop it
fine; chop the veal also; mix them thoroughly together, season well
with pepper and a teaspoonful of chopped onion or summer savory ; press
it closely in a pudding-dish, cover, and bake two hours. To be eaten
cold.
MARBLED VEAL.
Take a piece of veal from the round, being guided as to quantity
by the size of the mould you wish to fill; add loose lean scraps, and
bone if convenient; cover with cold water and boil until perfectly ten-
der; remove the piece of meat, leaving the scraps and bone to steAV
longer. Have ready four or five hard-boiled eggs; slice the cold veal,
and put it in the mould in layers, with sliced egg, a little salt, pepper,
sweet marjoram, small dice of boiled ham, and a slight dredging of
flour; reserve enough of the egg to make a border around the last layer.
When the mould is filled press the layers gently together and pour in
the stock from the kettle. If there were no scraps or. bone for the
stock, stir in a tablespoonful of melted gelatine (this much to a pint),
cover the mould, and bake moderately for an hour and a half. To be
turned from the mould, and eaten cold the next day.
RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL.
Cut in slices, dredge with flour, and fry in butter with half a grated
onion until brown; take it up, put a little hot water in the frying-pan,
and add a little smoothly-mixed flour, salt, pepper, catsup, and lemon-
juice; put back the veal, and when very hot, serve.
MEATS. 159
VEAL CHEESE.
Cold cooked veal chopped fine and slightly warmed with any
gravy, or a little b ntter, pepper, and salt, nutmeg also, if liked; line
a smooth mould with hard-boiled eggs sliced, and fill with the veal,
pressing it evenly in. Serve cold.
VEAL WITH OYSTEKS.
Two pounds of tender veal cut in thin bits, dredge with flour,- and
fry in sufficient hot lard to prevent sticking; when nearly done add
one and a half pints of fine oysters, thicken with a little flour, season
with salt and pepper, and cook until both are done. Serve very hot in
a covered dish.
MINCED VEAL.
Cut cold veal as fine as possible, but do not chop it ; put some good
broth in a saucepan and season it with pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel,
and a little mace; rub a little butter and flour together, and add to the
gravy; let it simmer to thicken; then put in the veal, with one gill of
rich cream; let it get very hot, but not boil. Serve with three-cornered
sippets of thin toasted bread around the dish.
STUFFING FOR VEAL.
Chop one pound of veal and half a pound of salt pork; mix them
with one pound of finely crumbed or grated bread, a little cut parsley,
sweet marjoram, three ounces of butter, two eggs, and pepper.
MINCED LIVER.
Cut it in pieces and fry with slices of pork; then cut both
into dice, nearly cover with water, add a little lemon-juice and
160 . IN THE KITCHEN.
pepper, thicken the gravy with grated bread or browned flour, and
serve.
STEWED LIVER.
Boil the liver until tender, and then chop fine; put in a saucepan,
with a little water, butter, browned flour, and spices to taste. After
simmering twenty minutes, serve hot, pouring over it half a gill of
wine.
STUFFED LIVER.
Soak a calf's liver in cold salt and water for an hour or more, using
two even tablespoonfuls of salt to a quart of water; change the water
once during the time. Make a stuffing like that used for veal, highly
seasoned with pepper, salt, finely-chopped pork, and summer savory or
sweet marjoram ; make incisions in the liver and fill them with the
stuffing; then roll and tie it, blanket with slices of salt pork, and bake
it. To be eaten cold, sliced, for lunch or tea.
FRIED CALF'S LIVER.
Cut the liver in thin slices, wash it, and leave it in salt and water
for half an hour; then wash it, and season with pepper and a little
more salt; fry in lard, and let it brown nicely. It may also be cut and
soaked as above, and broiled, seasoned with pepper and salt, and basted
with butter.
FOTJRCHETTE.
J. W. S., New Orleans.
Bits of nice salt pork about one third of an inch thick, two or three
inches square; bits of calf's liver the same size. Put these alternately
on a long skewer, beginning and ending with pork; lay it in the oven,
MEATS. 161
across a dripping-pan, and roast as you would a bird, basting occasion-
ally. When done slide the pieces from the skewer, and serve on a
platter. .
LIVER (OR VEAL) BEWITCHED.
Three pounds of raw liver.
One quarter of a pound of raw, fat salt pork.
Half a pint of bread crumbs.
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
One teaspoonful of black pepper.
Half a teaspoonful of cayenne.
Half a teaspoonful of mace.
A pinch of cloves.
Chop the liver and pork very fine, add all the other ingredients,
mix well together, put it in a covered mould or tin pail; set it in a ket-
tle of cold water over the fire (let the water reach half the height of
the mould) ; cover the kettle and let it boil two hours; take out the
mould, uncover, and let it stand in an open oven to let the steam pass
off. To be eaten cold.
MOCK TERRAPIN.
Hagerstown, Md.
Half a calf s liver.
Two ounces of butter.
Half a pint of water.
Half a gill of wine.
One teaspoonful of mixed mustard.
As much cayenne pepper as can be put on a half dime.
Two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine.
Season the liver with salt, and fry it brown; cut it in small bits,
11
1G2 IN THE KITCHEN.
dredge them well with flour, add the mustard, pepper, water, eggs, and
butter; let it boil a minute or two, then add the wine.
Cold veal may be used instead of liver.
POT PIE. •
This may be made of any kind of poultry or meat, which may or
may not have been previously cooked.
Of cold roast beef take two pounds, cut in rather thick oblong
pieces, break the bones, cover them with water, and let them simmer
two or three hours for the gravy; add sufficient water to this to make
the quantity one quart, put it in a four-quart saucepan with three tea-
spoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful
of catsup, and the meat, and when it boils add two tablespoonfuls of
flour mixed smooth in a little cold water. Have ready a soda-biscuit
dough (see page 300) made with two and a half ounces instead of
three of lard, butter, or drippings, to the pound of flour, and one table-
spoonful less of milk. A raised crust is excellent and bj some much
preferred. Take a piece of bread-dough the size of a dinner-plate
and two thirds of an inch thick, and let it rise. Be sure to have it
ready for the stew when the stew1 is ready for it; give it abundant time
to rise, and if It rises too fast put it in a cooler place. When the stew
is boiling fast, the crust may be added, either in one piece, covering the
whole or cut in oblong pieces ; the saucepan must then be closely covered
and must boil without stopping for twenty minutes; if the crust is in
one piece it must be placed on the platter upside down, the meat laid
on it, and the gravy (which may be more thickened if necessary)
poured over it. Should there be but little meat in the stew put a tea-
cup upside down on the oottom of the saucepan to help support the
crust.
MEATS. 163
HAUNCH OF VENISON ROASTED.
Aftee Marion Harland.
If the outside is hard wash it in lukewarm water and rub it with
butter or lard ; lay it in the dripping-pan and cover the top and sides
with a paste half an inch thick, made of flour and water; lay a thin
buttered paper over it, and over that a sheet of foolscap, and keep all
in place with buttered twine wound around the haunch; pour a little
water in the pao, put it in the oven, and occasionally pour a little but-
ter and hot water over the whole to keep the paper from burning.
Keep a strong, steady fire, and if the haunch is very large allow it about
two hours. Try it with a skewer to know when it is done. The last
half hour remove the paper and paste, and baste very often with claret
and butter. Serve with a frill of paper around the knuckle. Gravy
may be made by slowly stewing a pound of raw venison scraps in a
pint and a half of water, with cloves, nutmeg, salt, and cayenne to
taste; when reduced one third, strain, and return it to the saucepan
with three tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, half a gill of claret, and two
ounces of butter rubbed smooth with three even tablespoonfuls of
browned flour and one of white. Serve it in a gravy-boat. Currant
jelly is eaten with venison.
STEWED VENISON.
Use the backbone with the layer of tender meat each side, cut it into
several pieces, and put it in a stewpan with just water enough to cover
it; add a grated onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, black pepper, and
part of a red pepper pod. If it becomes rather dry add boiling water;
just before serving thicken with flour rubbed smooth in an ounce of
butter.
16± IN THE KITCHEN.
CTJERIED RABBIT.
One rabbit.
ITalf a pound of rice.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of stock.
Three sliced onions.
One tablespoonful of flour.
One tablespoonful of curry. *
One teaspoonful of mushroom powder.
The juice of half a lemon.
Clean, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it neatly into
joints; put it in a stewpan with the butter and onions; let them brown,
being careful that they do not burn; pour in the boiling stock; mix
the curry and flour smoothly in a little water, and put them in the sauce-
pan with the mushroom powder; let them simmer rather more than
half an hour; squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre of a
platter with the rice, boiled dry, piled around it.
Water may be used instead of stock, and a little sour apple and
grated cocoanut stewed with the curry.
JUGGED HARE.
(Time from three to four hours.')
One hare.
One and a half pounds of beef.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pint of Port wine.
One onion.
One lemon.
MEATS. 165
Six cloves.
Pepper, salt, and cayenne to taste.
Skin, clean, and wash the hare, cut it in pieces, dredge with flour,
and fry in hot butter Have ready one and a half pints of gravy made
from the beef and thickened with an even tablespoon ful of flour; put
this into a jar with the fried hare, the onion stuck with the cloves, the
lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good seasoning of pepper, salt, and
cayenne; cover the jar tight, and put it up to the neck in a kettle of
boiling water; let it stew until the hare is quite tender, keeping the
water boiling; when nearly done pour in the wine and add a few fried
force-meat balls (see page GO). Serve with currant jelly.
ROAST GROUSE.
{Time for cooking from thirty to thirty-five minutes.}
Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them,
wipe, but do not wash them, either inside or out, and truss them with-
out the head, cutting off the neck at the backbone, drawing over the
skin from the crop, and lapping it underneath; lay them in a dripping-
pan with a little water; keep them well-basted. Serve on toast which
has been soaked in the dripping-pan and buttered; pour a little melted
butter over the grouse, or serve with bread-sauce and gravy.
ROAST GROUSE.
Madame Morvan.
Dress and clean them, put an ounce of butter in each, then lay
each one, blanketed with strips of bacon, on a slice of dry toast in
the dripping-pan; as soon as they begin to get at all dry moisten them
well with stock, and until they are cooked, baste and turn them several
166 IX THE KITCHEN".
times. Serve on a hot platter garnished with parsley or cress, and the
toast, which is delicious, cut in points.
TO STEW PARTRIDGES.
Mrs. Breck.
In Mississippi, when partridges are abundant and butter poor, and
hard to obtain, take five or six partridges, cover with water, and let
them simmer for a long time until all the flavor is extracted; strain the
soup, season it with salt, pepper, and cream, and stew in it six par-
tridges. They are very delicate cooked in this way, and find great
favor with sportsmen.
ROAST WOODCOCK.
After plucking the bird take out the gizzard only; truss nicely,
putting the head under the wing or sticking the bill in the breast; lard
with butter, and after baking a few moments baste well with butter and
hot water, and place an oval piece of toast under the bird to catch the
trail; the bird is served on the toast. "Woodcock are often drawn, del-
icately seasoned with salt and pepper, roasted nicely, and served on
buttered toast, which should be placed under them ten minutes before
the roasting is finished.
BROILED WOODCOCK.
Split them down the back, broil over a clear fire, lay them on a
hot platter, with a little salt, pepper, and a few bits of butter; cover
and keep hot. In five minutes they are ready to serve.
NEW ZEALAND MODE OF COOKING BIRDS.
Cover the bird in its feathers with a paste made of mud and water;
dig a hole in the ground and build a fire in it; when burned down
MEATS.. 1G7
place the bird in the coals, cover, and leave it until baked. When the
paste is removed the feathers fall off, leaving the bird reaily to be
eaten. The entrails will be found dried in a small ball, which can be
easily removed.
This mode has been adopted in Louisiana, and is highly appreci-
ated.
REED BIRDS.
Pick, open, and wash carefully a dozen or more ; place them in the
folds of a clean towel, and with a rolling-pin crush the bones quite flat;
season with pepper and salt, spread them in a folding-gridiron, put
them over a clear fire, broiling the inside first, and when a light brown
turn the gridiron. Serve on buttered toast, season with pepper and
salt, and baste them well with fresh butter.
SPARE RIB.
Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and powdered sage; put it in the
dripping-pan with half a pint or more of water; baste very often to
prevent drying. It must be thoroughly cooked, as fresh pork is most
unpalatable when rare.
PORK STEAKS.
Take off the skin, broil well without drying, over a clear fire;
have ready on a hot platter two ounces of butter, rubbed with an even
teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, the same of powdered
sage, and one teaspoonful of grated onion; turn the steaks several times
in this dressing ; then cover closely and leave in the oven for a few
moments, when they are ready to serve. •
108 IN" THE KITCHEN.
DUTCH RECEIPT FOR FRESH PORK
Mrs. Johnson.
Two pounds of lean, fresh pork.
Half a pound of bread without the crust.
Three gills of milk.
Pepper, salt, and nutmeg to the taste.
Two eggs.
Soak the bread in the milk, add the seasoning and beaten eggs;
when well-mixed, add the pork finely minced. Put it in a buttered
dish, and bake it two hours. Have a little butter and water with which
to baste it occasionally.
A DELICATE ROAST PIG.
Lay a nicely-dressed pig in a tub of cold water to soak all night;
in the morning change the water, and let it remain until it is time to
roast it; then wipe it dry, rub the inside well with sage, cayenne, and
salt mixed, and stuff it with a dressing made of bread crumbs, salt pork
chopped fine, pepper, salt, sage, sweet marjoram, and an egg. It
should then be roasted on a spit before the fire; but lacking conveni-
ences for this mode, the pig must be placed (the feet turned under) on
a rack in the dripping-pan with some water, in which are some sprigs
of sage and marjoram tied in muslin. Keep it well-floured until half
4one; then take it out, wipe off the flour, return it to the oven, and baste
well with butter, repeating this several times until the pig is roasted.
Serve on a large platter with a. rose or small unhusked ear of green
corn in its month. The herbs may be taken from the dripping-pan,
the gravy thickened with flour and seasoned to the taste with pepper
and salt, then served in a boat. Allow about three hours for roasting.
MEATS.
169
SOUSE.
Take four young and tender pigs' feet; cover them with water,
and let them boil very slowly until so tender that the bones come out;
take them out, and sprinkle a little salt over them; when the liquor
cools remove the grease, and to one quart of the liquor add the same
measure of vinegar; boil it a few minutes with a handful of whole pep-
per, and pour it boiling hot over the feet. Cover closely, and leave in
a cold place.
SCRAPPLE.
Boil a pig's head two hours in four quarts of water with a little
sage, salt, and pepper; cut the flesh from the bones, mince it fine, and
raturn it to the liquor; add enough sifted cornmeal to thicken; simmer
(■wo hours, when it should be of the consistency of soft mush, not too
thick to pour. Put it in pans; when cold and stiff it is sliced, and fried
for breakfast.
FOR MAKING SAUSAGE.
Willow Bhook.
After selecting the sausage meat, chop it fine, and separate from it
all pieces of gristle and tough parts of the meat, and season as follows:
Thirty pounds of sausage meat.
Eight ounces of salt.
One and a half ounces of summer savory.
Two and a quarter oimces of sage.
Two ounces of pepper (the pepper should be ground fresh from
the berry).
Knead the seasoning into the sausage meat; a larger quantity of
sage and summer savory can be added, but no more salt.
170
IN" THE KITCHEN.
AUNT HANNAH'S SAUSAGE MEAT.
Fifty pounds of pork, about one quarter fat, chopped very fine.
One and a half pounds of salt.
I Five ounces of sage.
Five ounces of pepper.
Mix pepper, sage, and salt together, and then work them thor-
oughly through the meat; pack it in stone jars, and keep in a cold
place, but do not allow it to freeze.
FRYING SAUSAGES. ~
Prick them well to prevent the skin from bursting, lay them in a fry-
ing-pan, let them heat slowly, until sufficient fat has come from them
to prevent burning; turn them occasionally. If a gravy is liked, when
the sausage is laid on the platter, pour nearly all the fat from the pan,
add a little boiling water, and stir it well until browned with the sedi-
ment in the pan ; pour it over the sausages, and serve.
BACON.
Col. Wm. FitzHugh, of Maryland.
To one thousand pounds of pork hams, one bnshel of ground rock
salt, one gallon of molasses, one dozen red peppers ground; mix all
well together. On each ham put a heaping tablespoonful of finely-pul-
verized saltpetre, well rubbed in on the flesh side; lay on the mixture
on the same side, the third of an inch thick; pack the meat in a tight
tub with the skin side down, put on it a heavy weight, and let it remain
three weeks. Repack it, laying the upper hams down ; leave it three
weeks longer. Wipe them dry, and let them hang three days before
smoking. Smoke with hickory wood, three days in the week, for four-
MEATS. 171
teen weeks. Before the flies appear, roll in paper, and place in cotton
bass.
■"O"
TO CURE A SMALLER QUANTITY OF BACON.
Col. FitzIIugh.
To six large hams, take eight quarts of fine salt and four table-
spoonfuls of saltpetre; mix well together, and rub thoroughly into
every ham. Pack with the skin side down in a clean tub; let them
remain six weeks, then hang them up and smoke six weeks. Cure
shoulders in the same way, but with a little less salt.
HAMS SXOKED IN THE BRINE.
Turn a barrel over a pan or kettle, in which there must be kept a
slow smoking fire of hard wood, for from five to eight days; keep water
on the head of the barrel to prevent its shrinking. Pack the hams in
the smoked barrel, and to every six gallons of water use twelve pounds
of salt, twelve ounces of saltpetre, and two quarts of molasses; stir
until dissolved, boil and skim, and when, cold pour the brine on the
hams. In one week they are cured. By keeping the hams under the
pickle they will remain good the entire year, without becoming hard or
too salt. It is thought that these hams are far superior to those cured
in the ordinary way.
INGLE HAMS.
Rub the hams well with salt, especially around the bone, put them
in a cask, and pour over them this brine, which must be well-skimmed
and boiling.
Nine pounds of salt.
Three ounces of saltpetre.
172 EST THE KITCHEN.
One pint of molasses.
Six gallons of water.
One heaping tablespoonful of saleratus.
Let them lie four or five weeks; then hang them up in the smoke
of a slow fire, which requires daily attention. Smoke very slowly a
week t>r more, until they are a dark chestnut color.
For boiling, always select an old small ham. For broiling, choose
one recently cured.
In carving a ham, begin two or three inches from the centre towards
the hock; after the first slice is cut, the large end is called " Virginia,"
the other "Maryland." It should be cut as thin as possible; it is said
that a cold boiled ham should be cut so thin as to cover an acre.
Grated ham is very nice for sandwiches. Cold ham for the tea-
table may be sliced very thin and rolled.
HAM BOILED AND BAKED.
Take a small ham that has been cured several months; wash it
well and scrape the lower part; soak it all night in water that will more
than cover it; in the morning put it in the boiler with an equal supply
of fresh water; boil slowly for four hours. Take off the skin; this is
done very easily when the ham is hot, by holding the bone with one
hand, while with a damp cloth in the other, you loosen the ski.i from
the bone, turn it back, and draw it off in one piece. The next day put
the ham in the oven for two hours, with a cover to protect the top;
have a pint of vinegar in the dripping-pan and baste the ham often.
Ten minutes before it is baked take it out, cover it with grated bread,
and return it to the oven to brown.
When served, conceal the bone with a frill of finely cut paper.
MEATS. 173
BAKED HAH.'
Pittsburg Receipt.
Wash the ham thoroughly and scrape the lower part; soak it in
water, that will more than cover it, all night. Skin it, and lay it in the
dripping-pan with one pint of vinegar; baste every fifteen or twenty
minutes; bake four hours. Half an hour before serving take it out
and cover thickly with powdered white sugar and a layer of ground
cinnamon with a little nutmeg, and a little red pepper. Return it to
the oven and let it brown.
BONED HAM.
Soak a nicely cured ham the night before you wish to cook it, in
tepid water. Next day place it in a pot of water of the same tempera-
ture, and boil it until perfectly tender; take it up in a wooden tray, let
it cool, and carefully take out the bone; cut it clear at the hock and
loosen it around the bone on the thick part with a sharp knife, and
slowly pull it out. Then press the ham in shape, and return it to the
boiling liquor; take the pot off the fire, and let the ham remain in it
until cold. It is like beef's tongue when cut across in slices.
BROILED HAM.
For broiling, a ham should not be old, as for boiling.
Cut the slices thin, trim the edges carefully, lay in the saucepan,
cover with water, and let it heat gradually to freshen, but do not let the
water boil; after ten minutes, taste of the ham, and if it is still too
salt, pour off the water and add fresh, letting it heat again. Then dry
it in a cloth and broil over a clear fire; lay in a platter and dress with
pepper, and a few small bits of butter.
174 IN THE KITCHEN.
HAM WITH VINEGAR.
Cut cold ham thin, and broil it; lay it on the platter and pour over
it two or three spoonfuls of hot vinegar and pepper. If the vinegar is
very strong, add a little water,
HAM WITH CURRANT JELLY.
Put half a glass of currant jelly, a small bit of butter, and a little
pepper in your saucepan; slice boiled ham very thin, and when the
jelly is hot, put in the ham and leave it only long enough to be thor-
oughly heated. Serve on a small platter.
WHAT TO DO WITH A HAM FROM WHICH A PEW SLICES HAVE BEEN CUT.
Make a very nice stuffing of grated or finely-crumbed bread, sea-
soned with pepper and celery seed, and heated with a small bit of butter.
Fill the space in the ham with this dressing, restoring as far as possible
the form of the ham, and leaving a smooth surface; heat slowly in the
oven and let it bake half an hour, then cover it with grated bread and
a sprinkling of sugar; brown, and serve.
GRATED HAM FOR TEA.
Garnish the edge of a small platter with very thin slices of the fat
of cold boiled ham; the pieces should be one and a half inches long
and one inch wide; place them on the edge half an inch apart; fill the
dish with grated ham, letting it meet the border. It should rise in the
centre two or three inches.
HAM TOAST.
Put one pint of chopped lean ham in a pan with a little pepper,
MEATS. 175
one and a half ounces of butter, and two beaten eggs. When well
heated, spread it on hot buttered toast, and serve.
HAM PUFFS.
One pint of water.
One pint of flour.
Four eggs.
Three ounces of finely-chopped ham.
A pinch of cayenne, or two thirds of a teaspoonful of curry.
While the water is boiling, stir in the flour, mix, beat well, and
cook until the stiff batter parts from the basin, then beat in the eggs
one by one; add the ham and cayenne, or curry, and half a tea-
spoonful of salt unless the ham is quite salt. Drop it in deep hot lard,
in bits half as large as an egg. This is a side dish for dinner; nice with
chicken, turkey, or veal.
POTTED HAM.
Two pounds of the lean of boiled ham.
Half a pound of the fat of boiled ham.
One teaspoonful of pounded mace.
One teaspoonful of allspice.
Half a nutmeg.
Pepper to taste.
Clarified butter.
Chop the ham very fine and pouhd it with the fat in the mortar to
a smooth paste ; add the seasoning gradually, and mix thoroughly.
Press it into small pots, pour a thin coating of clarified butter over it,
and keep in a cool place.
176
IX THE KITCHEN.
WESTPHALIA CROQUETTES.
Mix four ounces of grated or very finely-chopped ham with one
pound of mashed potato., well-beaten with half a gill of cream, two
ounces of butter, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Make this into
round or oval balls, dip them in a beaten egg, then roll in finely-grated
bread, lay them in the frying-basket, and brown in deep lard- Serve
piled on a platter, and garnished with curled parsley.
HAM CROQUETTES WITH CURRY.
Mix two pounds of mashed potatoes (free from lumps) with two
ounces of butter, one gill of milk, two teaspoonfuls of curry powder,
and three quarters of a pound of finely-chopped ham; make it into
smooth rolls on the bread-board, a little larger than a sausage, and six
or seven inches long; divide these in two, dip them in beaten egg,
then in fine bread crumbs, and fry in a basket in deep lard. This will
make twenty-two croquettes.
FORE AND BEANS.
Oue pound of pork.
One quart of beans.
Wash the beans at night and pour over them one quart of tepid
water; in the morning add two quarts of water, and boil half or three
quarters of an hour, or until the skins begin to crack; drain, and put
them in the " bean-pot"; score the pork in small squares, put it in the
Centre of the beans, sinking it to the rind; pour a quart of hot water
over them, cover the pot, and bake slowly for three hours.
For many generations this has been New England's Sunday dish.
MEATS. 177
The little bean-pots bustling to the bakery Saturday evening and return-
ing the next day in quietness and solemnity for the Sunday dinner, have
become a part of history. So many associations cluster around this
little crock, that even were its place supplied by a new invention, better
adapted to the purpose, we could not abandon it. But there is nothing
better, nor as good. It is broad and low, the mouth about two thirds
the diameter of the crock, but wide enough to admit the piece of pork,
put in endwise, then turned. It is easily covered, which is a great
advantage, as it is highly important to prevent the escape of the steam
and to preserve the flavor of the beans.
178 FOE ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 179
180 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
181
182 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 183
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, Etc.
CUCUMBER CATSUP.
Virginia.
One dozen full grown cucumbers pared.
One dozen onions.
Grate the cucumbers and leave them on a sieve while the onions
are being grated ; put both together in a large bowl and mix thor-
oughly; add salt, spices, mustard, and turmeric to' the taste; also, if
liked, a little sugar and horseradish, and vinegar to liquefy the mass
sufficiently for bottling.
If preferred, this may be seasoned simply with salt, pepper, and
vinegar.
GRAPE CATSUP.
Mrs. Wm. Smith. ,
Five pounds of ripe grapes.
Two and a half pounds of sugar.
One pint of. vinegar.
One tablespoonful of ground cinnamon.
One tablespoonful of ground cloves.
One tablespoonful of ground allspice.
One tablespoonful of pepper.
Half a tablespoonful of salt.
Boil the grapes in enough water to prevent burning, strain through
a colander, add all the ingredients, and boil until a little thickened;
bottle and seal.
184 IN THE KITCHEN.
TOMATO CATSUP.
Mrs. Sawyer.
One gallon of skinned tomatoes.
Four tablespoonfuls of salt.
Four tablespoonfuls of black pepper.
Two tablespoonfuls of allspice.
Eight red pepper pods.
Eight tablespoonfuls of mustard seed.
The whole to be bruised fine; simmer slowly in one pint of vine-
gar three hours; then strain, and boil down to two quarts.
TOMATO CATSUP.
Pittsburg, Pa.
Half a bushel of ripe tomatoes.
Quarter of an ounce of ground mace.
Quarter of an ounce of ground ginger.
Quarter of an ounce of ground cloves.
One eighth of an ounce of cayenne pepper.
One and one third gills of salt.
One head of garlic.
Slice the tomatoes without peeling; boil until soft and strain them
through a sieve. ' Boil until reduced to one third its bulk, add all the
above ingredients, boil half an hour longer; then bottle, cork, and seal.
LEMON CATSUP.
One and a quarter pounds of salt.
Quarter of a pound of ground mustard.
One ounce of mace.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 185
One ounce of nutmeg.
One ounce of cayenne.
One ounce of allspice.
One gallon of good vinegar.
Eight or nine garlic cloves.
Fifteen large lemons.
Slice the lemons, add all the other ingredients ; let it simmer from
twenty to thirty minutes; put it in a jar and keep it covered; stir it
well every day for seven or eight weeks; then strain it, bottle, cork,
and seal.
SPICED VINEGAR.
Three pounds of sugar.
Two ounces of mace.
Two ounces of cloves.
Two ounces of pepper.
Two ounces of allspice.
Two ounces of turmeric.
Two ounces of celery seed.
Two ounces. of white ginger, in small bits.
Two ounces of ground mustard.
Mix the spices, put them in small bags of thin but strong muslin,
lay them in a three-gallon stone "crock with a small mouth (a churn-
shaped crock), and fill it with the best cider vinegar. Keep closely
covered, and use for pickles and sauces.
TARRAGON VINEGAR.
Strip six or eight handfuls of tarragon leaves from the plant before
it begins to bloom, put them in a pickle-jar, and pour over them one
186 IN THE KITCHEN.
gallon of the best vinegar; cover, and keep in a warm place for a week
or more, until the vinegar is flavored, then steep it, strain, and bottle.
CANTELOPE. (Sweet Pickle.)
Seven pounds of cantelopc pared and cut.
Five pounds of brown sugar.
One quart of vinegar.
One ounce of stick cinnamon.
One ounce of whole cloves.
Boil the spice, vinegar, and sugar together, and pour it over the
melon; repeat this (draining and reboiling) the two following days;
the fourth day boil all together until the fruit becomes clear; put in
cans and cover closely.
Blue plums done in the same way are delicious.
IUCHO PICKLES.
These pickles were introduced into western New York in 1826,
by Mr. Wilhelm Iucho.
Peaches, quinces, pears, plums, cherries, nutmeg, melons, and cu-
cumbers may all be used in this way. The fruit must be ripe, but not
soft; peaches, plums, and cherries should be pickled whole; pears also
may be whole, or nicely halved, cored, and pared; quinces, after being
parboiled, must be pared, quartered, and cored; if large, cut in eighths.
Melons must be quite firm, hardly ripe enough for the table; open, take
out the seeds, pare closer than they are eaten, and cut in such shape
and size as is desired. They cook very quickly. Cucumbers must
be full-grown and yellow; pare, open lengthwise, remove the seeds, and
cut in long strips. Plums, peaches, and pears may be stuck with cloves
and with cassia buds, or small strips of cinnamon.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. * 187
The old method of making these pickles was long and wearisome,
requiring several days ; they are now made in an hour or two, and are
equally good. Cucumbers, however, are an exception; they must be
soaked over night in vinegar and water, and parboiled in it the next
day, then drained, wiped dry, and pickled like all the others, after the
following rule: —
Make a syrup of four pounds of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon,
half an ounce of cloves, and one pint of best cider vinegar; a little more
vinegar may be added if preferred. When the syrup boils, put in as much
fruit as it will cover, and boil gently until tender. This quantity is suffi-
cient for ten pounds of fruit, but will not cover the whole at once; as it
cooks and is taken out, put in more. Of sliced fruits, great care must be
taken not to break them. Have glass cans ready, half filled with hot water
standing on a round board in a pan of hot water; empty them as the
fruit becomes tender, and fill them. "When all the fruit is taken from
the kettle, pour back the syrup from the cans, then, when boiling, fill
the cans and screw down the covers immediately. The old mode is,
perhaps, better for melons; it is given in the preceding receipt, which
has been thoroughly tested.
SWEET APPLES, PICKLED.
Mrs. Burritt, Penn.
To six pounds of sweet apples, pared and cored, add one quart of
vinegar and one pound of sugar; if the vinegar does not nearly cover
the apples, add a little more, or if it is very strong, use water; season
with whole cloves and bits of cinnamon; boil slowly until the apples are
tender.
188 IN THE KITCHEN.
SPICED CURRANTS.
E. L. V. P.
One ounce of cinnamon, unground.
Half an ounce of cloves, unground.
One tablespoonful of allspice, unground.
One tablespoonful of mace, unground.
One pint of vinegar.
Four pounds of currants.
Two pounds of sugar.
Boil the currants with the spices tied in a little bag, and the sugar,
to a thick jam; when nearly done add the vinegar. Put it up in tum-
blers like currant jelly, or in glass cans.
AUNT BETSEY'S PICKLE.
One quart of green peppers.
Two quarts of cucumbers.
Three tablespoonfuls of salt.
Vinegar to cover.
Take well-grown green cucumbers, pare them and scrape out the
seeds, cut them in bits about as large as the end of the little finger.
Open the peppers, scrape out the seeds, and cut them in strips the same
length; sprinkle the salt over them and stir them up. Let them stand
two hours, then hang them in a thin cloth or bag to drain, for from twelve
to twenty hours. Put them in a common stone jar and cover with good
cider vinegar; put on the cover, place the jar on the stove, let it heat
slowly, and boil ten minutes. It can then remain in the jar with a dou-
ble paper tied closely over the cover, or it can be put up in glass Cans
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 189
AUNT BETSEY'S HIGDOM.
This is made like the preceding, but onions are used instead of
green peppers, and it is seasoned with cayenne and black pepper.
PICKLED BUTTERNUTS OB, WALNUTS.
Gather the nuts when so green that a pin can be thrust through
them; make a brine of one and a half pints of salt to one gallon of
water; throw in the walnuts, and let them lie for a week. Freshen
them in tepid water for a few hours, longer if necessary; thrust a large
needle through every one ; put them in a crock, and cover with boiling
vinegar, spiced to the taste.
PICKLED WALNUTS.
Gather the nuts when they can be pierced with a needle; cover
them with brine, allowing one and a half pounds of salt to one gallon
of water, and let them stand in a cool place three weeks. Drain them
in a colander; wash and wipe the jars in which they have been, return
the walnuts, and cover them with the best cider vinegar, and let them
remain one month; take them out, rinse and wipe the jars; put in the
nuts and sprinkle with one ounce of mustard seed. To as much of the
best vinegar as will cover them, add one ounce of cloves, one of black
pepper, one of stick cinnamon, half an ounce of mace, and half an
ounce of race ginger, and boil ten minutes. When cold pour all of it
over the nuts, and cover them hermetically. They are fit to eat when
soft, but improve by being kept for one or two years.
190 IN THE KITCHEN".
CRIMSON CABBAGE FICKLE.
Mrs. Atkinson.
Quarter small but firm heads of cabbage ; pour over them a boil-
ing brine of one and a half pints of salt to one gallon of water, and
cover closely; re-boil, and return the brine twice more, allowing inter-
vals for cooling; drain the cabbage and lay it in a jar; fill with boiling
vinegar which must be re-boiled twice like the brine. When thus pre-
pared, the cabbage is ready for the coloring, which is imparted by the
juice of poke-berries; mix it with the best vinegar, either plain or
spiced, and fill the jar. Should plain vinegar be used, spice with black
pepper, a pod of red pepper, ginger-root, bruised horse-radish, and some
cloves of garlic, and the pickle is then made; cover the jar close, and
keep it in a dry, cool place.
Red cabbage may be pickled like the above without the coloring.
TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWER.
Separate the stems, wash them carefully, and sprinkle with salt,
using half a pint of salt for a peck. Let them stand twelve hours,
then shake off the salt, lay them in jars with a few pepper-corns, and
cover with boiling vinegar.
CELERY PICKLE.
Quarter of a pound of white mustard seed.
Half an ounce of turmeric'
Half an ounce of white ginger-root, crushed in a mortar.
Two quarts of chopped white cabbage.
Two quarts of chopped celery.
Three quarts of vinegar.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 191
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
Four or live tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Put all together in a porcelain-lined kettle, and cook slowly several
hours, until the cabbage and celery are tender.
CHOW CHOW.
>
Auburn.
One peck of green tomatoes.
Half a peck of green peppers.
Quarter of a peck of onions.
One large cabbage.
One cauliflower.
Chop all fine, mix well together, and pack in a jar or any large
vessel, with a layer of salt to each layer of chow chow, in the propor-
tion of half a pint to a peck. Let it stand over night, then squeeze it
out of the brine, and add to the chow chow a quarter of a pound of
white mustard seed and a quarter of a pound of ground mustard sprin-
kled through it; put it in the jar in which it is to be kept; boil vinegar
enough to cover it, and set it away for use. Keep it covered closely.
AN EASY MODE OF PICKLING CUCUMBERS.
Throw cucumbers in strong salt and water, one and a half pounds
of salt to four quarts of water, and let them remain for twenty-four hours ;
drain it off, and fill up the jar with boiling water; add a bit of alum
(one ounce to five quarts of water), let them stand a few hours on a warm
hearth. Pour off the water, and fill the jar with good hot vinegar
seasoned to the taste with cloves, black pepper, mace, etc.
192 nsr the kitchen.
KALAMAZOO PICKLES.
Half a bushel of small cucumbers.
One quart of brown sugar.
Half a pint of white mustard seed.
One ounce of broken cinnamon.
One ounce of celery seed.
Two ounces of alum.
Seven quarts of vinegar.
The cucumbers should not be more than two or three inches long;
nip the remains of the flower from the end; cover with a brine made
of two gallons of water and a pound of salt; let them stand twenty-
four hours; drain them, boil the vinegar, alum, and spices; put the
cucumbers in jars {fill the jars with them, as the spaces between leave
room for a sufficient quantity of vinegar) ; pour the boiling vinegar
over them, and close immediately. Glass fruit-cans are excellent for
pickles, but stone jars will do, with strong paper pasted over the covers.
GRATED CUCUMBERS.
Fond dtj Lac.
Pare and halve full-grown cucumbers, take out the seeds and grate
them; strain and press the pulp until much, not all, of the water is
extracted. Season highly with pepper and salt, mix thoroughly with
vinegar, and seal in small bottles. This is delicious; when served, its
fragrance pervades the room like that of fresh cucumbers.
OIL CUCUMBERS.
Bellehukst.
Fifty cucumbers.
Half a pound of white mustard seed.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 193
Half a pound of white pepper
One ounce of celery seed.
i A few blades of mace.
1 Three or four white onions.
A few little red peppers.
One pint of best salad oil.
Slice the cucumbers as thin as for table; put them in a jar in lay-
ers freely sprinkled with salt, allowing half a pint of salt to a peck of
the sliced cucumbers, and let them remain over night or a day or two.
Then drain off the water; put a thin layer of the slices in a jar, add
two thin slices of onion, a little red pepper, a blade of mace, and sprin-
kle of mustard seed, of white pepper and celery seed, and two table-
spoonfuls of oil ; then another layer of cucumbers, and so on, filling up
with best vinegar. Good in two months.
FEENCH PICKLE.
One peck of green tomatoes sliced.
Six large onions sliced.
Half a pint of salt.
Two pounds of brown sugar.
Half a pound of white mustard seed.
Two tablespoonfuls of ground allspice.
Two tablespoonfuls of ground cloves.
Two tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon.
Two tablespoonfuls of ground ginger.
Two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard,
One teaspoonful of red pepper.
Five quarts of vinegar.
Two quarts of water.
13
194: IN THE KITCHEN.
Sprinkle the salt over the tomatoes and onions; leave them over
night and drain them in the morning; add the water and one quart of
the vinegar; boil the tomato and onion twenty minutes, and drain them;
boil the four quarts of vmegar with the other ingredients fifteen min-
utes. Put the pickles in jars and pour the hot dressing over them; seal
and keep in a cool, dry place.
PICKLED NASTURTIUMS.
Have a two-quart jar partly filled with cold vinegar, salted to the
taste, and as the nasturtiums are gathered, wash them clean and throw
them in, being careful that they are covered by the vinegar.
PICKLED ONIONS.
Select small ones of uniform size, peel and trim them nicely; put
them in glass jars, and pour over them two heaped teaspoonfuls of
whole allspice, the same of black pepper, and one tablespoonful of salt
to a quart of vinegar.
Or, after peeling the onions, cover them with a brine, half a pound
of salt to four quarts of water, and let them stand twenty-four hours;
drain, cover with boiling water, pour it off, put the onions in jars, and
cover with boiling vinegar, spiced to the taste with whole black pepper
and allspice. Dissolve a bit of alum in the vinegar while boiling, half
an ounce to two and a half quarts.
THORN'S PICALILLI.
Half a pound of sugar.
Two quarts of vinegar.
Half a pint of sweet oil.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 195
Two ounces of curry.
Two ounces of dry mustard.
One ounce and a half of ginger.
One ounce of turmeric.
Rub the curry and mustard with the oil, add the other ingredients,
and boil until it thickens. Take gherkins, button-onions, red pep-
pers, nasturtiums, cauliflower, and the small heart of a cabbage, — four
quarts in all; put them in brine for thirty-six hours, drain well, lay them
in jars, pour the dressing over them boiling hot, and seal.
YELLOW PICKLE, NO. 1.
Take green cantelopes, from four to six inches in length, scrape off
the outside rind, and cut a piece two inches square from the side;
through this opening remove all the seeds and soft substance around
them. Preserve the pieces carefully, as they are to be sewed in when
the melons are stuffed. Scald the whole in salt and water, half a pound
of salt to four quarts of water; then rub them well with salt, lay them
on a white cloth, and let them bleach in the sun a few days, turning
them frequently. "When bleached wipe off the salt, and put them in a
two-gallon jar with one gallon of weak cider vinegar, with about two
tablespoonfuls of turmeric; let them remain forty-eight hours. Have
prepared one gallon of white wine vinegar, two ounces of turmeric,
two of white ginger, previously shred, and soaked for forty-eight hours
in salt and water, two ounces of long pepper, two of white pepper, two
of coriander and carraway seed, two of cardamon, two of garlic, two of
horse-radish, two of ground mustard, half a pint of sweet oil; mix all
of these together, adding a little cabbage and two or three dozen green
tomatoes, finely-chopped. Stuff the cantelopes and sew in the covers;
when put in the jar add half a pint of brown sugar to the vinegar.
19G IX THE KITCHEN".
YELLOW PICKLE, NO. 2.
Prepare four heads of white cabbage as for slaw, sprinkle them
with salt, about three gills to a peck, and let them remain in the sun for
twenty-four hours ; shred half a peck of silver onions, sprinkle them also
with salt, and set them in the sun for twenty-four hours ; then drain the
cabbage and onions carefully; mix them well together. Prepare one
pound of white mustard seed, three ounces of ground mustard, a quar-
ter of a pound of celery seed, half an ounce of powdered allspice, half ■
an ounce of powdered cloves, one ounce of powdered mace, one grated
nutmeg, about a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one ounce of turmeric,
half a pound of sugar, and a teacupful of sweet oil, and mix them thor-
oughly together into a paste. Take three quarts of cider vinegar with
about one pound of brown sugar; throw in some whole cloves, allspice,
and pepper; let it boil up once, skim well, and when the vinegar is cold
pour it over the pickles, and tie up the jar.
It will be ready for use in two weeks.
BOILED YELLOW PICKLE.
Virginia.
(Made at any time, and immediately fit for use.)
For a head of coarsely-cut cabbage allow six shred onions; scald
for fifteen minutes in boiling vinegar, with a little salt; drain well, and
for a gallon of the cabbage and onion allow one ounce of ground mus-
tard, two ounces of celery seed, two ounces of rasped horse-radish, four
ounces of white sugar, two ounces of turmeric, one gill of olive oil, one
tablespoonful of cloves, mace, and black pepper, beaten and sifted
together. Mix all these ingredients, beginning with the oil and mus-
tard; add vinegar to thin the mixture; put the cabbage and onion in
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 197
layers in a jar, with the spices between, and cover the whole with cold
vinegar.
PEPPER PICKLE.
. Mount Holly, N. J.
Twenty-five green peppers.
More than double their bulk in cabbage.
Two gills of salt.
One tablespoonful of mustard seed.
One tablespoonful of ground cloves.
One tablespoonful of allspice.
Vinegar to cover. ,
Take the seeds from the peppers, and chop them fine; chop the
cabbage, add all the other ingredients, cover with cold vinegar, mix
thoroughly, and put in closely covered jars.
In making this pickle be very careful not to burn the hands with
the peppers; use a napkin or a pair of white cotton gloves.
SPICED TOMATOES.
One and three quarter pounds of sugar. .
Five pounds of tomatoes.
One pint of vinegar.
Two tablespoonfuls of ground cloves.
One teaspoonful of mace.
Peel and slice the tomatoes before weighing them, then boil all
together four hours.
GREEN TOMATOES.
One peck of green tomatoes sliced thin.
Twelve good-sized onions.
198 IK THE KITCHEN.
Put them in layers with half a pint of salt, and leave them twelve
hours; let them drain four hours. Mix half a pound of white mustard
seed, one ounce of ground cloves, one of allspice, one of ginger, one of
pepper, a quarter of a pound of table mustard, one pound of brown
sugar. Put the tomatoes in layers.in the kettle with the onions, adding
the spice; cover with strong vinegar, and boil until the tomatoes arc
soft and clear. Put the pickle in jars, and keep it from the air. Celery
seed improves the flavor.
TOMATO SOY.
Half a pound of white mustard seed.
Quarter of a pound of ground mustard.
Two ounces of black pepper.
Two ounces of allspice.
Half a pint of salt.
One peck of green tomatoes.
One dozen sliced onions.
Vinegar to cover.
Slice the tomatoes, sprinkle the salt over them, and let them stand
twenty-four hours; then drain them and put them in a porcelain-lined
kettle with the onions and the spices'. Cover with cold vinegar, and
boil until perfectly soft, stirring often to prevent burning.
CHILI SAUCE.
Ten pounds of ripe tomatoes that have been peeled.
Two pounds of onions.
Seven ounces of green peppers, without the seeds.
Six ounces of sugar.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 199
Four ounces of salt.
One and a half pints of vinegar.
Slice the tomatoes, peel and chop the onions and peppers; boil all
together several hours, until it is as thick as you like. This quantity
will make from three to four quarts.
BREAD SAUCE.
Let a sliced onion and six pepper-corns simmer in half a pint of
milk over boiling water, until the onion is perfectly soft. Pour it on
half a pint of bread crumbs without crust, and leave it covered for an
hour; beat it smooth, add mace, cayenne, salt, and two ounces of butter,
rubbed in a little flour; add enough sweet cream to make it the proper
consistency, and boil it a few minutes. It must be thin enough to
pour.
BUTTER A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
A MOST REFINED, EXQUISITE SAUCE FOK BOILED FISH.
Quarter of a pound of fresh butter.
One and a half tablespoonfuls of parsley, chopped fine.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One pinch of white pepper.
The juice of two lemons.
Cream the butter perfectly, beat in the salt, pepper, and lemon-
juice, add the parsley, and serve. If preferred, a tablespoonful of vin-
egar and a teaspoonful of mixed mustard may be added.
DRAWN BUTTER.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
One and a half ounces of flour.
200 IN THE KITCHEN.
Half a pint of boiling water.
One gill of cold water.
Two thirds of a teaspoon ful of salt.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
Have the boiling water in a saucepan, and pour in the flour, mixed
smoothly in the cold water; stir constantly and let it boil a few min-
utes, to cook the flour; take it from the fire and cut the butter in
small bits through it; stir well, and serve. It may wait for half an hour
or more; keep it hot but do not let it boil.
FISH SAUCE, NO. 1.
To half a pint of the above add one teaspoonful of anchovy
sauce, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and one tablespoonful of
sherry.
SAUCE FOR FISH, NO. 2.
Pour a pint of boiling water on three even tablespoonfuls of flour
mixed smoothly in a little cold water; season with white pepper and
salt; add two well-beaten eggs, and stir it over boiling water until as
thick as desired; add lemon-juice to the taste.
DRAWN BUTTER FOR BOILED LAMB.
'".Three ounces of butter.
One ounce of flour.
Half a pint of boiling water. (Use the water in which the lamb
was boiled.)
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One pinch of white pepper.
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 201
One lemon.
The yolk of one egg.
Mix the flour with one ounce of the butter in a pint basin; stir in
the water, boil it until the flour loses its raw taste; take from the fire,
and add immediately the beaten yolk, stir well, cut in it the remaining
two ounces of butter, and add the juice of half a lemon.
The other half of the lemon may be cut in slices thin as paper, and
used with parsley as a garnish for the lamb.
EGG SAUCE.
Four hard-boiled eggs chopped, sliced, or quartered, and mixed
gently with one pint of drawn butter. (See page 199.)
CBEAM SAUCE FOB, SALT OR FRESH FISH, OR FOR VEGETABLES.
Put three ounces of butter in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls
of flour and a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, a grated white
onion, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; when the butter is melted, and all the
ingredients well mixed, add half a pint of cream or rich milk, and let
it boil a quarter of an hour, stirring continually. When served with
fresh fish a pinch of horse-radish may be added.
LEMON CREAM SAUCE FOR STEWED CHICKEN.
One quarter of a pound of butter.
Half an ounce of flour.
One pint of sweet cream.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One lemon.
Ten white pepper-corns.
202 IX THE KITCHEN.
Let the cream simmer over boiling water with the yellow rind of
the lemon cut in strips, and the pepper-corns, until it is flavored ; rub
the flour with the butter, which may be softened with a little of the hot
cream; strain the cream, stir in the flour and salt, and let it cook until
thick as boiled custard. Arrange the chicken on a platter, pour this
dressing over it, garnish with parsle}r, and serve. If the cream is rich
use less butter.
CELERY S4UCE.
Stew one pint of cut celery slowly in one pint of water until per-
fectly tender; skim it out carefully, make a drawn butter with the
water (page 199), add the celery, and serve.
COLD SLAW DRESSING.
Beat two eggs in a bowl that fits in the top of a tea-kettle; add a
gill of water and vinegar mixed (the proportions depending on the
strength of the latter), an ounce of butter, an even teaspoonful of salt
and one of sugar; place the bowl over the boiling water and when hot
stir it until thicker than boiled custard; then strain and leave it to cool.
It must be perfectly cold when poured over the cabbage. When the dish
is served a little black pepper may be sprinkled over the top; a dress-
ing of vinegar, pepper, and salt is also very good for cold slaw.
CHICKEN SALAD DRESSING.
Mus. Montgomery.
For one good-sized chicken allow four eggs, two table spoonfuls of
mixed mustard, one teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of red pepper, two
ounces of butter; beat well together, add a gill of vinegar (if very
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 203
strong dilute it with water), and stir it over boiling water until of the
consistency of thick cream. It must be perfectly cold when used.
DRESDEN DRESSING.
Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs until quite smooth; add a
small onion, grated, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, also
one teaspoonful of salt, one of dry mustard, and one of sugar; mix
well, and by degrees, while stirring fast, add half a gill of sweet oil;
when quite thick add gradually half a gill of vinegar. If wished, the
whites of the eggs may be chopped fine and stirred in the dressing.
This may be used for cold beef, mutton, or veal. The meat should be
cut in very small bits and mixed with the dressing.
MAYONNAISE, OR MRS. B.'S SAIAD DRESSING.
One teaspoonful of dry mustard.
Two even teaspoonfuls of salt.
A small pinch of cayenne.
Half a gill and one and a half teaspoonfuls of vinegar.
Half a pint of sweet oil.
One raw egg.
Mix the mustard, salt, and pepper with the one and a half tea-
spoonfuls of vinegar in a two-quart bowl (this gives ample room for
beating), add the egg, and beat well. "With the left hand steady the
bowl and pour the oil from the tin measure in a continuous thread-like
stream, while a brisk beating is kept up with the right hand ; it must be
like a thick batter; when the oil is well beaten in add the vinegar
slowly. This dressing, closely covered, will keep for weeks in a cold
place. It is not only delicious but is often of great service to invalids.
204 IN THE KITCHEN.
LOBSTER SAUCE FOR TURBOT, SALMON, ETC.
One medium-sized hen lobster.
One pint of drawn butter.
Half an ounce of butter.
One tablespoonful of anchovy sauce.
Two or three tablespoonfuls of cream.
Salt and cayenne pepper to the taste.
A little mace, if liked.
After boiling the lobster pick the meat from the shell, and cut it
into small square pieces; put the spawn, which will be found under the
tail, into a mortar with the butter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it
through a sieve and cover until wanted. Make the pint of drawn but-
ter in this way: In one pint of boiling water stir four even tablespoon-
fuls of flour, mixed smooth in a little cold water; let it boil and thicken;
take it from the fire and cut the four ounces of butter in it; add salt to
taste. To this add all the ingredients of the sauce, save the lobster,
and mix well ; then add the lobster, but do not stir it, for the pieces
must not be broken or ragged; and do not boil, as that destroys the
color, which should be a bright red. .
OYSTER SAUCE.
Boil half a pint of small oysters with their liquor in one pint of
water until the flavor is well extracted, then strain, pressing the juice
well from the oysters ; throw in a pint of small, fresh oysters, and stew
until puffed; take them out, skim well, and make a drawn butter by
adding flour and butter (see page 199), put back the oysters, and when
thoroughly heated, serve .
CATSUPS, PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 205
SAUCE PIQUANTE.
Two ounces of butter.
Half an ounce of flour.
One ounce of cucumber pickle.
Half a pint of stock.
One tablespoonful of vinegar.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of dry mustard.
One onion chopped fine.
A small pinch of cayenne pepper.
Fry the onion in the butter, and when a light brown sift in the
flour; let it brown; then pour in gradually the stock, add the condiments
and pickle, and boil until thick as desired; stir in the vinegar, and
serve.
SAUCE ROBERT.
Half a pint of beef broth.
One and a half ounces of butter.
One tablespoonful of flour.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One third of a teaspoonful of pepper.
One teaspoonful of made mustard.
One teaspoonful of vinegar.
A small onion chopped fine.
Juice of half a lemon.
Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot throw in the onions ;
stir them until brown, being very careful that they do not burn; sift in
the flour, stir, and fry a little longer; add the broth, pepper, salt, etc.,
and simmer for ten minutes. Pour it hot over nicely broiled beefsteaks.
206 EST THE KITCHEN".
SAUCE TARTARE.
This is very much like mayonnaise, but is more highly seasoned,
and is specked with minced parsley, tarragon, and a little finely-chopped
green cucumber pickle, or capers.
HORSE-RADISH.
This most refreshing and appetizing relish is used chiefly in the
spring, and is especially valuable in country towns, where the reign of
veal is so long and wearisome. It must be washed clean, grated, and
moistened with vinegar ; add a little salt.
CARAMEL FOR BROWNING SOUPS AND GRAVIES.
Half a pound of moist, brown sugar.
One pint of hot water.
Heat the sugar slowly in a small iron kettle or saucepan, and stir
it with a knife, or flat stick, until it is a smooth batter; let it darken,
but be very careful that it does not burn; add the water veiy slowly,
and with thorough mixing; let it simmer while the sugar, which must
be scraped from the sides, dissolves; then bottle and cork.
ROUX, BROWN AND WHITE.
Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, and when on the
point of boiling stir in sufficient flour to make it a thin batter; continue
stirring until it is as dark a color as desired. White roux is made like
the above, but not allowed to color. These are used to thicken gravies
and soups.
CATSUPS. PICKLES, SAUCES, ETC. 207
GRAVY FOR POULTRY.
Boil in a pint and a half of water the neck, gizzard, and liver, with
a small onion cut in two and stuck with four cloves; add pepper, salt,
and a small bit of bread; when the liver and gizzard are tender chop
them very fine and put them back in the gravy with a bit of butter; if
it is not thick enough add a little flour (two even tablespoonfuls for
half a pint of gravy) rubbed smooth with some of the cooled gravy;
let it simmer, then strain, and serve.
VENISON GRAVY.
Take a piece of the neck of beef with a little venison (a pound in
all), cover with a quart of cold water, and boil, closely covered, until the
meat has no flavor; stir in four ounces of butter braided with four even
tablespoonfuls of flour. When it has boiled, if not thick enough, add
more flour, also pepper, cloves, salt, and Port wine to the taste; mace
also, if liked. It must be well stirred and boiled. Gravy made in this
way, without venison, is excellent for roast beef, beefsteak, and mutton.
POWDER FOR PEA SOUP.
One ounce of dried mint.
One ounce of dried sage.
One drachm of celery seed (one teaspoonful) .
Quarter of a drachm of cayenne.
Pound and rub well together through a fine sieve. Nice in pea-
soup and in gruel. One drachm of allspice or black pepper may be
pounded with the above, as an addition, or instead of the cayenne.
FILET, OR SASSAFRAS POWDER.
Mrs. I. N. Young.
Gather the sassafras leaves in August, dry them in the shade, pow-
der them, sift, and bottle. *
208 FOE ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 209
210 FOR ADDITIONAL, RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 211
212 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
VEGETABLES. 213
VE GETAB LE8.
Be careful to have the vegetables fresh; wash and examine them very carefully, to be sure
that tiny are free from grit, insects, and worms. Let them lie in cold water half an hour or
more before using. Pick lettuce and cucumbers early in the morning when the dew is on
them, and put them in fresh water.
As there is no English word to express a substance that has been rubbed through the col-
ander, or pounded to a pulp, the French word puree will be used occasionally in the following
receipts.
Where cream is used with vegetables, milk slightly thickened with an additional bit of
butter may be substituted.
BOILED POTATOES.
If old, pare them; if ripe, leave them in cold water an hour or two
before cooking; put them in boiling water with an even teaspoonful of salt
to a quart; when they are cooked pour off the water, take them to an
open window or door, and shake them; then return them to the fire for
a few moments, and serve. After boiling new potatoes (the skin, being
thin, is scraped from them before boiling) leave five or six small ones in
the kettle; break (not mash) them with the potato-ponnder, add half a
pint of milk and an even tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with two
ounces of butter and half a teaspoonful of salt; when thickened pour
it over the potatoes and serve.
A German savant says that new potatoes require two boiling waters
and that old potatoes are greatly improved thereby. Put them in a wire
basket in a kettle of boiling water; have ready another kettle of boiling
water, and when the potatoes are half cooked lift them from the first
and put them in the second kettle.
214 TN THE KITCHEN.
MASHED POTATO.
Four pounds of peeled raw potatoes.
Six ounces of butter.
One and a half gills of milk.
One and a half tablespoonfuls of salt.
Boil, the potatoes, pour off the water, mash them with the potato-
pounder, add the milk, butter, and salt, and beat until all are not only
thoroughly mixed, but light. Cream may be used instead of milk, and
the quantity of butter lessened. In serving, do not smooth them over
the top.
POTATO AS RICE.
Dress the potatoes as in the above receipt, and rub them quickly
through the colander into a hot vegetable-dish. The puree must not be
touched, but allowed to lie just as it falls from the colander. Serve at
once.
POTATO BROWNED IN SLICES.
What remains of the mashed potato after dinner may be pressed
evenly in a basin, and the next morning cut in slices half an inch thick
and fried a light brown on the griddle or browned in the oven.
BROILED POTATO.
Slice cold boiled potatoes lengthwise (the slices should not be less
than half an inch thick), broil them on the gridiron on both sides; lay
them in a hot vegetable- dish, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, and
put bits of butter over them. To be served very hot.
VEGETABLES. 215
POTATOES FRIED WHOLE.
Select small ones of uniform size; if this cannot be easily done
cut them down to the proper size (the surplus bits may be boiled and
mashed for balls or croquettes) ; boil them until nearly done in salted
water, then lay them in the frying-basket and plunge it in deep hot lard;
if preferred, they may be dipped in egg and grated bread before frying.
COLD POTATOES FELED.
Even cold baked potatoes may be used in this way. After paring,
chop them fine; put them in a frying-pan with a little hot pork-fat, or
butter, pepper, and salt; press them down in one side of the tipped pan,
and when brown turn upside down and serve; or the whole may be
stirred with a fork while browning.
BAKED POTATOES.
Wash them well with a brush to get every particle of grit from the
eyes, then rinse them in clean water, lay in the oven, and bake half an
hour. They should be served immediately, otherwise they shrivel and
lose their charm.
POTATOES BAKED WITH ROAST BEEF.
Half an hour before the beef is ready to come from the oven, lay
pared potatoes in the pan; they may be served with the beef or in a
separate dish.
POTATOES AND HAM.
Keep a slice of fried ham hot, on a platter, while sliced cold pota-
toes are browned in the fat; arrange them around the ham, and serve.
216 IN THE KITCHEN.
POTATOES LYONNAISE.
Slice cold boiled potatoes, fry them, adding salt, pepper, half an
onion grated, and a little parsley chopped fine.
SWEET POTATOES.
Boil or bake them, like Irish potatoes, but give them more time.
If boiled* they must be pared before serving; cold sweet potatoes are
very nice, cut and fried.
SARATOGA POTATOES.
Pare the potatoes, slice them thin as possible on the potato-cutter,
leave them for an hour, or an hour and a half, in cold water, then dry
them in a towel. Have a kettle of deep lard for frying them ; when it is
hot cover the surface with the dried slices, sprinkle a little salt over
then, turn them with the skimmer and when done lay them on a doubled
brown paper in the open oven. Fry them all in this way, piling them up
on the paper as they come from the lard. They are eaten both hot and
cold, for breakfast, lunch, or tea, sometimes with a fork, but oftener
with the fingers.
NEW ORLEANS POTATOES.
Pare, and cut the potatoes in three quarter-inch dice; leave them in
water as in the above receipt; drain, dry, and cook them in the same
way, giving them, however, a little more time. A quarter of an onion
dropped in the hot lard imparts a fine flavor to the potatoes.
POTATOES STIFLED IN A CREEPER.
Wash, pare, and slice the potatoes ; have the " creeper " (frying-
pan) ready on the stove with some hot fat, either suet or the fat from
VEGETABLES. -17
port; put in the potatoes, and add one gill of hot water, salt and pep-
per; if suet is used, more salt is necessary than with pork; cover thorn,
but stir them up as they brown, letting the top pieces go under; have
fat enough to make them fry well.
AUNT LAURA'S BREAKFAST POTATOES.
This is a dish that has for forty years been the envy of many a
housekeeper. The three essentials are cream, firm boiled potatoes, and
patience in cutting them. The potatoes are left from dinner; select
those that are not mealy, and where that is impossible pare off the
mealy surface; new potatoes, not thoroughly ripe, are particularly nice
for this purpose. Take a small, sharp, thin-blacled knife, and "nip"
the potatoes in bits about the size of a dime, a little thinner on the
edges than in the centre; put a quart of these pieces in a stewpan, in
layers with two even teaspoonfuls of salt and two ounces of butter;
pour half a pint of cream over the top, cover, heat slowly, and let them
stew gently for eight or ten minutes ; stir as little as possible, and with
a fork only, and in taking them up be very careful not to break the
pieces. It requires no little time to cut the potatoes properly ; it was
" Aunt Laura's " evening work, and instead of being additional labor,
after her day's struggle in the kitchen, it seemed a recreation, as she
sat, smiling and happy, while the delicate bits fell from her knife like
snow-flakes into the basin below.
SCALLOPED POTATOES.
Slice cold boiled potatoes very thin and small; put one quart of
them in a baking-dish, in layers with two even teaspoonfuls of salt, two
thirds of a teaspoonful of pepper, and two and a half ounces of butter;
218
1ST THE KITCHEN.
pour half a pint of cream or milk over the whole; if milk is used, more
butter is required ; cover the potato with grated bread, a little pepper
and salt, and small bits of butter; bake until thoroughly heated and
browned.
POTATOES A LA PAFJSJENNE.
Cut raw potatoes with a vegetable-cutter into balls the size of a
marble, fry them brown in butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley.
POTATO CROQUETTES.
One and a half pounds of potatoes passed through the colander.
Three ounces of grated bread.
Two ounces of butter.
Half a gill of cream.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a small nutmeg.
Two eggs.
A small pinch of cayenne pepper.
Mix the butter with the potato while warm, use the cream to help
pass the potato through the colander, add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and
one beaten egg; mix all thoroughly together, then make up into rolls
about four inches long and one and a half inches through ; or make them
round and flatten them, but be very careful to have the surface jjerfectly
smooth. Beat the egg on a plate; have the bread grated very fine;
rolled and sifted cracker will do, but, whichever is used, it must be fine
as coarse corn-meal, to ensure a beautiful crust. Roll the croquettes first
in the egg and then in the bread; lay them in the basket, and plunge
it in the hot lard; when a light brown lay the croquettes on brown
paper for a moment, then serve on a napkin.
VEGETABLES. 219
RICE AS A VEGETABLE,
One pint of cold water.
Half a pint of rice.
One teaspoonful of salt.
"Wash the rice through several waters, rubbing it between the
palms of the hands; pour off the last water, which must be clear, put it
in a saucepan, and add the pint of water; cover it, and let it boil until
holes come in the top, then remove the cover and let it dry.
BAKED RICE.
One pint of rice.
One pint of water.
One pint of milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Wash the rice thoroughly, put it in a baking-dish with the other
ingredients, and bake slowly for one hour.
TURKISH PILOF.
Rev, A. O. Von Lennop.
One pint of stock or soup.
Half a pint of rice.
One ounce of butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Wash the rice well and put it in a saucepan with the stock; if
soup is used, it must be strained and no saltneed.be added; cover, and
boil until holes come in the top; melt the butter and pour over it; let
it dry, then serve as vegetable rice.
220 IN THE KITCHEN.
RICE CROQUETTES.
One pound of rice.
One quart of cold water.
Half a pint of milk.
Three teaspoon fuls of salt.
The yolks of two eggs.
Fine bread crumbs.
"Wash the rice thoroughly in several waters, put it in a saucepan
■with the water, milk, and salt; let it boil until the water and milk are
absorbed, then set it aside to cool. Grate the bread, or if dried to a
crisp it may be rolled; it should be fine as coarse corn-meal. Beat the
yolks; have the lard heating, then make the rice into fourteen cro-
quettes, with smooth surface, roll them in the egg and then in the
bread crumbs ; lay them in the frying-basket, and plunge it in the hot
lard, having first tested its heat with a bit of bread. When the cro-
quettes are a golden brown, lift the basket, let it drain for a moment,
then serve either on a platter or in a vegetable-dish.
HOMINY.
Two quarts of large hominy.
Half a pint of small, white beans.
Wash both and put them in a large iron kettle with cola water, of
which there must be- a depth of eight or ten incnes above the corn.
After boiling an hour pour off the water, and add the same quantity of
boiling water; let it boil slowly from eight to ten hours. As the water
disappears, replenish with boiling water, but from the first it must not
be stirred; keep it closely covered. When tender, if the water is not
absorbed, leave it partly uncovered on the back of the stove, where it
• VEGETABLES. 221
will cook more slowly; then pour it into a large pan, mash it with the
potato-pounder, and stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, and salt to
the taste, beginning with three even tablespoonfuls.
HOMINY BROWNED FOR BREAKFAST.
In ' a small but rather deep frying-pan put a bit of butter, a little
more than enough to prevent sticking. When hot, fill the frying-pan
with cold boiled hominy, press it in evenly, cover until thoroughly
heated, then remove the cover, and let it remain on the range until a
brown crust has formed below and on the sides; loosen it with a knife,
lay a dinner-plate on the frying-pan, turn them over together, then raise
the pan and you will find a beautiful brown mould of hominy.
SMALL HOMINY.
One pint of hominy.
Half a pint of rich milk or cream.
One quart and half a pint of cold water.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Put the hominy, salt, and milk in a saucepan, and stir often until
it boils; cover, and boil moderately for one hour. If not stiff enough
let it boil uncovered. A few minutes before serving, beat in the cream
very thoroughly.
HOMINY CROQUETTES.
Half a pint of hominy.
One and a half pints of boiling water.
One and a half gills of milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One ounce of butter.
222 nsr the kitchen. ,
Pour the water on the hominy, stir, cover, and boil moderately, stir-
ring occasionally for twenty minutes, or until the water is absorbed and
the hominy rather stiff; add the milk and salt, stir thoroughly, cover, and
let it stand ten minutes, cooking, if necessary, very slowly. It should be
like a tolerably thick batter, but not too thick to drop. Beat in the but-
ter and pour the hominy into a shallow pan. "When cool (if cold it is
too stiff) flour your hands, take a piece about the size of a small egg,
make a ball of it between the palms of the hands, then roll it on a floured
tin into a well-shaped croquette. This quantity will make fifteen. Roll
them in beaten egg and then in- the finest grated bread; they may be
fried at once, or kept in a cool place for several hours. Fry them on the
basket in deep lard.
MACARONI.
Mks. Montgomery.
Six ounces of macaroni.
Three ounces of grated cheese.
One and a half ounces of butter.
Half a pint of milk.
Three quarters of a tablespoonful of dry mustard.
One teaspoonful of salt.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
More than cover the macaroni with cold water, and let it boil
gently until half done. It must not be stirred; if it sticks to the ket-
tle, use a fork to loosen it; drain it and put it in layers in a baking-
dish with a little of the butter, and some cheese between them, reserv-
ing a part of both for the top; mix the mustard, salt, and pepper smooth
in a little of the milk, add the rest, and pour it over the macaroni;
cover with cheese dotted with butter, and bake half an hour.
VEGETABLES. 223
SAVORY MACARONI
Half a pound of macaroni.
Three ounces of uncooked ham.
Half a pint of tomato-juice.
Half an onion chopped fine.
One teaspoonful of white pepper.
Two ounces of grated cheese.
Boil the macaroni in water, until tender; chop and brown the ham
and onion in a frying-pan, and add the tomato, macaroni, pepper, and
salt; just before serving sprinkle the cheese over the whole.
SIMPLE MACARONI
Pour one quart of boiling water over half a poiind of macaroni;
cover, and let it stand twenty minutes; drain, and pour cold water over
it; in a few minutes drain again, and throw it in a kettle of boiling
milk and water, when it will soon be tender; then drain it, season with
butter, cream, salt, white pepper, and cheese if liked. Serve hot.
Or, put a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a stewpan with a tea-
spoonful of salt and a quart of boiling water; cover, and boil for twenty
minutes, or until nearly done; pour off the water, add a gill of milk,
cover, and stew until perfectly tender. In the mean time have a gill of
milk heating over boiling water, with half an ounce of butter, half a
teaspoonful of salt, and a small pinch of cayenne; add a well-beaten
egg and stir until as thick as rich cream ; add mustard if liked. When
the macaroni is taken up pour this over it, and serve at once. There
may be a light coating of grated cheese between the macaroni and the
dressing, t
224
IN THE KITCHEN.
IBISH MACARONI.
To one pint of mashed potatoes well seasoned with butter, white
pepper, salt, and cream, and beaten until light, add one gill of grated
cheese j put it in a baking-dish with a layer of grated cheese over the
top, and leave it in the oven long enough to heat thoroughly and brown.
BURR ARTICHOKES.
"Wash the artichokes, and boil them in water slightly salted until
tender; serve whole on a napkin. Take off the leaves one by one, dip
the large end in the sauce, drawn butter, and eat only the soft, pulpy
part.
ASPARAGUS.
Wash it carefully and bind in bunches, making the heads even;
then with a sharp knife cut the other end of the bunch straight; throw
into boiling water, and boil from twenty to thirty minutes. Have some
buttered toast on a platter, place the bunches of asparagus on it side
by side, the heads the same way; carefully clip and draw out the
strings ; pour over the whole, some melted butter with pepper and salt,
or, if preferred, drawn butter.
SPINACH.
Look it over carefully, and wash it thoroughly ; take it from the
water, put it in a saucepan without water, cover closely, and boil half
an hour. Put it in the colander, press all the water from it, return it
to the fire, cut it several times across, season with butter, pepper, and
salt. Serve covered with poached eggs.
Or, it may when boiled soft be rubbed through the colander, then
VEGETABLES. 225
put in the saucepan and seasoned with hutter, pepper, and salt. "When
hot, beat in two or three tablespoonfuls of rich cream; garnish with
hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters.
GREEN PEAS.
Be sure that they are young, as old peas are fit for nothing but
soup. Throw them in boiling water, and boil from thirty to. thirty-five
minutes; drain them, season with batter, pepper, and salt, and add
half a gill of rich cream.
PUREE OF DRIED PEAS.
Cook them like dried beans (see page 226) until the water is ab-
sorbed; rub them through a coarse sieve, and season with pepper, salt,
and butter. If liked, a piece of salt pork may be boiled with the peas.
STEING BEANS.
The yellow butter-bean is an excellent variety. "With a knife take
off the ends of the pods, and the strings from both sides, being very
careful to remove every shred ; cut every bean lengthwise, in two or
three strips, and leave them for half an hour in cold water. Much more
than cover them with boiling water; boil until perfectly tender, for if
they fall the least short of this they are unfit to serve. It is well to
allow three hours for boiling, for the beans are easily kept hot, if ready
too soon, drain them well, return to the kettle, and pour over them half
a gill of cream, one and a half ounces of butter, one even teaspoonful
of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. This dressing, is sufficient
for a quart of cooked beans.
15
226 IN THE KITCHEN.
LIMA BEANS.
Put one quart of shelled beans into a pan of cold water and let them
remain an hour; put them in boiling water, more than enough to cover
them; when tender pour off the water, add two ounces of batter, and
half a gill of cream; season with pepper and salt; let them simmer a
moment, then serve.
All shell beans may be cooked liked the above.
TO COOK DRIED LIMA BEANS.
At night wash one pint of beans, put them in a small tin pail, pour
over them one quart of boiling water, cover closely, and let them stand
until two and a half hours before dinner; then add more water, and let
them boil until tender, keeping them well covered with water. When
nearly done throw in two even teaspoonfuls of salt; be careful to keep
them from breaking. When perfectly soft, drain in the colander, re-
turn them to the kettle, and add three ounces of butter, half a teaspoon-
ful of white pepper, and one gill of cream. Shake them about, stir
gently, and when very hot, serve.
TO COOK DRIED BEANS.
It is not necessary to soak them before boiling; put a pint of dry,
.hard beaiis in a quart of cold water over the fire; after boiling a few
minutes, drain, and add the same quantity of boiling water. In twenty
minutes check the boiling by throwing in a gill of cold water, and after
boiling twenty minutes longer throw in another gill. In an hour and a
quarter after putting the beans in cold water they will be perfectly
cooked. If wanted for soup, boil them until broken, and rub them
VEGETABLES. 227
through the colander. If to be used as a vegetable, drain them, then
let them simmer for ten minutes with a little cream, butter, pepper, and
salt; i.i either case, a small piece of pork may be boiled with the beans.
GREEN CORN BOILED.
Throw the husked ears in a kettle of boiling water slightly salted,
and boil from twenty to thirty minutes. Serve in a napkin, or boil and
serve in the thin inner husk, if preferred.
GREEN CORN STEWED.
Cut with a sharp knife through the centre of every row of grains,
and cut off the outer edge ; then with the back of the blade push out the
yellow eye, with the rich, creamy centre of the grain, leaving the hull
on the cob. To one quart of this add half a pint of rich milk, and
stew until cooked in a covered tin pail, in a kettle one third full of boil-
ing water; then add salt, white pepper, and two or three ounces of
butter. The old proverb " slow and sure " may be applied to this mode
of cooking; allow two hours for the corn; it seems a long time, but
there is no danger of burning, and it requires no more attention than to
stir it occasionally and to keep good the supply of water. If dryer
than liked, add more milk or cream.
GREEN CORN BAKED.
Grate, or cut as in the above receipt, eighteen ears of corn ; beat
six eggs very light, and add one quarter of a pound of butter, creamed
and stirred in with a pint of very warm milk; mix well, and beat until
very light; add two tablespoonfuls of light brown sugar and a little
228 1ST THE KITCHEST.
salt; put in a deep dish, and bake in a quick oven from three quarters
to one hour. Serve hot, in the same dish.
Or, one dozen ears, cut or grated, one pint of sweet milk, two eggs,
and two ounces of butter, mixed well and baked three fourths of an
hour.
CORN FRITTERS OR OYSTERS.
One dozen large ears of corn.
Two eggs.
Three tablespoonfuls of flour.
Salt to the taste.
Grate the corn or cut it (see page 227) , add the eggs well-beaten,
the flour and salt; mix well, and drop it in hot lard a quarter of an inch
deep ; when browned on one side turn the other. Serve very hot.
CANNED CORN AND TOMATOES.
Stew the tomatoes until cooked; boil the corn on the ear; cut it as
directed (page 227) ; let it cook with the tomato until thoroughly hot,
and while boiling fill the heated cans, and fasten instantly. The toma-
toes and corn may be in equal proportions, or otherwise.
This may be used in the winter in layers with bread crumbs, baked
in a baking-dish.
TO DRESS CANNED CORN.
Pour the corn in a saucepan; add half a pint of rich milk, two
ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper,
and let it simmer ten minutes.
VEGETABLES. 229
HULLED CORN.
Mrs. Adams.
Put two handfuls of clean hardwood ashes in two quarts of cold
water; boil fifteen or twenty minutes; then let it stand until the ashes
settle, and the water is perfectly clear. To this cleansed water (it
should be strong enough of the lye to feel a little slippery) add as much
cold water as necessary to cover the corn; put the corn in the water,
let it boil until the hulls begin to start, then skim out all the corn into
a pan of clear cold water, and rub thoroughly with the hands to remove
the hulls and cleanse the corn from the lye; rub it through two or
three or even four waters, that there may be no taste of lye; then put
into clear water, and boil until tender.
This is eaten either hot or cold; is very nice for breakfast dressed
with a little cream, pepper, and salt.
SUMMER SUCCOTASH.
One pint of cranberry beans barely covered with cold water; boil
from an hour to an hour and a half. When half cooked add a pint of
cut sweet corn, and fifteen minutes later half a pound of salt pork that
has been boiled one hour and a half; season to the taste with pepper
and salt; add two and a half ounces of butter, or one gill of very rich
cream. If the succotash is too dry add a little milk or water; if other-
wise, pour off some of the liquid before adding the cream.
WINTER SUCCOTASH.
Parboil a pint of beans and throw off the water; add one quart of
boiling water, and when they have boiled twenty minutes throw in a
230 IX THE KITCHEN.
gill of cold water, and twenty minutes afterwards throw in another. In
this way the beans will bo cooked in an hour and a quarter. Have
ready a pound of salt pork which has been boiled two hours, and a can
of sweet corn boiling hot; add them to the beans, Avith two tablespoon-
fuls of white sugar, three ounces of butter rolled in flour, and salt and
pepper to the taste; add a little water if necessary. Let all simmer
together for half an hour, then serve very hot.
BAKED TOMATOES, NO. 1.
Select large tomatoes, pour boiling water over them, let them
stand a few minutes, then drain and peel, remove the core, and lay them
in a baking-dish; season bread crumbs very highly with pepper, salt,
grated onion, sugar, and butter; press some of this dressing into the
centre of every tomato, and strew over them a light coating of the same.
Bake slowly until thoroughly done; take them out very carefully and
Serve in a vegetable dish.
BAKED TOMATOES, NO. 2.
One can or one quart of fresh tomatoes, pared and sliced.
Half a pound of bread crumbs.
One fourth of a pound of butter.
Two ounces of brown sugar.
One teaspoonful of pepper.
Three teaspoonfuls of salt.
One onion grated.
Put a layer of bread in a baking-dish, then one of tomatoes, and
cover it with bits of butter, a little of the onion, pepper, salt, and sugar;
VEGETABLES.
231
then another of bread, and so on, having the last layer of bread and
leaving enough of the pepper, etc., to sprinkle over it. Bake from half
to three quarters of an hour and longer if the tomatoes are fresh. Serve
in the same dish, on a dinner-plate if round, on a platter if oval.
Ripe tomatoes, unpeeled, may be baked in the dripping-pan with
beef or fresh pork, and served as a garnish.
TOMATOES.
G. S.
Take large tomatoes, green or ripe; cut out the tops and lay them
aside until the tomatoes are stuffed. Remove all the inside of the fruit
(being careful not to break the skin), and mix with it an equal quantity
of stale bread crumbs; chop fine, and season well with salt, pepper, and
summer savory. Fill the tomatoes with this dressing and replace the
tops; place them in a baking dish with a bit of butter the size of a
chestnut on each. Bake slowly, and when thoroughly cooked, serve in
the same dish with an additional bit of butter on each tomato.
The connoisseur who gave me this receipt considers it by far the
finest mode of cooking tomatoes.
STUFFED TOMATOES.
Choose the large size, remove the stem, and slice a cover from the
upper side; take out the seeds, place the tomatoes in a baking-dish
with the stem side down, fill them with bread crumbs well-seasoned
with salt, pepper, sugar, grated onion, and butter; replace the tops and
bake in a slow oven. They may be served in the same dish, or taken
out carefully and sent to table in a vegetable-dish.
232 IX THE KITCHEN.
TOMATOES EN SURPRISE.
Pour a quart of boiling water on half a pound of well- washed rice;
add a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil covered until barely tender;
throw it in the colander, drain, and return it to the saucepan; if not
ready to use at once keep it covered to prevent its drying.
Pour the juice from a can of tomatoes, or from fresh stewed toma-
toes; season them well with butter, sugar, pepper, salt, and grated
onion; add bread crumbs to nearly absorb the juice; butter an oval
mould very thoroughly, and line it with the rice, from half an inch to an
inch in thickness, reserving enough to spread over'the tomato; pack it
rather closely; let it stand for five or ten minutes where it will keep
hot without drying. A few minutes before serving fill it with the to-
mato, leaving space at the top for the cover of rice; turn it from the
mould and serve in a vegetable-dish. It should be so firm and white as
to give no suspicion of its contents.
FRIED TOMATOES.
Cut ripe tomatoes in two, and fry, slowly on both sideR in butter
and lard. When thorougly cooked take them out, pour a little milk or
cream in the frying-pan, thicken with a little flour, and season with salt
and a very small pinch of red pepper; pour it over the tomatoes, and
serve.
FRIED TOMATOES, NO. 2.
With one pint- of grated bread (not pressed in the measure^ mix
one tablespoonful of salt, three of sugar, and one teaspoonful of pep-
per. Slice large, unpeeled tomatoes about half an inch thich, dip
them in the bread, and lay them in hot butter on the griddle; drop over
every piece half a teaspoonful of very finely chopped onion • brown well
on both sides, and serve hot.
VEGETABLES. 233
BROILED TOMATOES.
"Wash and wipe, then cut them in two, sprinkle with pepper and
salt, and place them on the gridiron over the fire, with the skin side
down; when hrown put the gridiron in front of the fire and let them
cook slowly until well done; this saves the necessity of turning them,
and thus losing the juice. In serving, put bits of butter over them,
and a little sugar if liked.
TOMATO AND CORN.
Peel and slice tomatoes, and stew them a short time with butter,
pepper, and salt; thicken, but do not make it stiff, with sweet corn cut
from the ear (see page 227), and see that the whole is well seasoned.
Have in a buttered baking-dish a layer of grated bread, add a layer
of the corn and tomato, then another of bread, and so on, until the dish
is full; the upper layer must be of bread; dot it thickly with bits of
butter and scatter over it a little pepper and salt; bake in a moderate
oven an hour or more.
OKRA.
Select young, tender pods; boil in a porcelain or tin-lined sauce-
pan (iron discolors it) with a little salt in the water. When tender
drain, season with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve in a vegetable-
dish.
OKRA AND TOMATO.
Peel and slice the tomatoes ; slice the okra, which must be tender,
across, or if very small, lengthwise ; slice one, two, or three green pep-
pers, according to size and pungency, and stew them wTith the above.
When all are cooked season with butter and salt and serve. Cook in
bright tin, or a porcelain-lined saucepan.
234 IN THE KITCHEN.
STEWED E&B-PLANT. . #
Put the plants in cold water slightly salted, and boil until they can
be pierced with a fork, having changed the water once ; peel and mash
them, season with salt and pepper and butter ; add a little grated bread,
and serve hot.
#. EGG-PLANT FRITTERS.
Select a large egg-plant, leave, it unpared and with the stem on ;
boil it in a porcelain kettle, in slightly salted water, until so tender that
it can barely be taken oat without breaking; remove the skin, put the
pulp in the colander and press the water from it; mash it very fine, add
salt and pepper to the taste, also two ounces of butter rubbed with
three even tablespoonfuls of flour; add a well-beaten egg and mix
thoroughly. Have ready some hot butter and lard in a frying-pan;
drop in the egg-plant by spoonfuls and fry on both sides.
BAKED EGG-PLANT.
Cut an egg-plant in two, and leave it in cold salted water (two
even tablespoonfuls to a quart) from one to two hours; with a sharp
knife score the rind very deeply in squares; lay it in a pan with the
scored side up ; season with pepper and salt, pour sweet oil or melted
butter over it,. and bake slowly until perfectly soft and browned.
EGG-PLANT SERVED IN THE SHELL.
Among the several egg-plants intended for dinner select* the largest
one; cut off the stem end about one quarter or one third of the way
down; take out the inside carefully, without breaking the shell, leaving
it quite thin; the other egg-plants maybe peeled, then cut in small bits,
VEGETABLES. ' 235
and with that taken from the large shell, put on the fire, well-covered
with cold wuter; JdoU until perfectly tender, then drain in the colander,
pressing out the water with the back of a plate; pound it smooth, and
season wiih butter, pepper, and salt; a little rich cream may be added;
heat the pane thoroughly, put it in the prepared shell, cover it with
grated bread and tiny bits of butter, and put it in the oven to brown.
Serve in a vegetable-dish. This puree may be served without the shell
in a dish covered with crumbs and browned. "*
FRIED EGG-PLANT.
Cut in thin slices and soak an hour in salt and water, two even
tablespoonfuls to a quart; sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt,
dredge with flour, and fry on both sides in hot drippings or butter. Or,
dip the pieces in a beaten egg, well-seasoned with pepper and salt, then
in finely grated bread, and fry in deep lard on the basket, or as above.
FRIED MUSHROOMS.
Take the large hothouse mushrooms measuring from five to six
inches across; peel them. Have ready in the frying-pan a little sweet
oil with some pepper and salt; fry the mushrooms till thoroughly
heated (too much cooking toughens them). Serve on nicely cut pieces
of buttered toast, and pour a teaspoonful of wine over every mushroom.
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
Let them lie an hour in salt and water, about two tablespoonfuls
to a quart; cover with water, and let them stew two hours; dress with
cream, butter, and flour like oysters ; season to taste.
236 IN THE KITCHEN.
TO BROLL MUSHROOMS.
Peel them at night and sprinkle a very little salt over them, not
more than would be palatable in cooking; so place them that the juice
will run from them and be preserved for the gravy; broil them for
breakfast lightly on both sides; lay them on a platter with bits of but-
ter and a little pepper, heat the juice, pour it over them, and serve.
TO STEW MORELS.
Leave them for an hour in water, slightly salted; drain, add barely
enough water to cook them, and stew until tender; pour off the water,
add cream, a bit of butter rubbed in. flour, pepper, and salt; let them
simmer a few minutes, and serve hot.
APPLES BAKED FOR DINNER.
Take a baking-dish holding about two quarts; fill it with sour
apples that have been quartered and cored, but not pared; add one gill
of water and half a gill of white sugar ; bake uncovered until tender.
FRIED SOUR APPLES.
Wash, and cut them in quarters, then core them ; have about half
an inch of hot drippings in the frying-pan; put the apples in it and turn
them until they are brown all over; just before they are done sprinkle
them with two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Serve for dinner in a
vegetable-dish.
STEWED CELERY.
Cut the celery as for salad, cover with cold water, cook from
twenty to thirty minutes. If there is more water than is requhed for
VEGETABLES. 237
the dressing pour some of it in the soup-kettle; then rub two table-
spoonfuls of flour with two ounces of butter, and add this with a little
milk or cream, salt, and pepper to the celery, and boil for several min-
utes. Celery may also be stewed in stock, and served with a brown
dressing.
CYMIINGS, DRESSED LIKE EGG-PLANT.
Take tender cymblins, parboil them, cut them across in slices half
an inch thick, take out the seeds as nicely as possible. Have ready a
batter made of two eggs and as much flour as will thicken it, with a
little ground mace, salt, and pepper; cover each piece with the batter,
and fry in butter.
CYMLINGS, OR SUMMER SQUASH.
If the nail presses easily through the skin, do not remove it, or
the seeds. If quite small, the cymblins may be cooked whole; boil them
in a bag for three quarters of an hour, place the bag in the colander,
and press out the water with a plate ; then put them in a stewpan, add
butter, salt, and a little cream; when very hot, serve.
BAKED SQUASH, NO. 1.
Cut slices about half an inch thick, pare them, and sprinkle with a
little salt and sugar; put tiny bits of butter over them and bake in a
pan. Serve in a vegetable-dish.
BAKED SQUASH, NO. 2,
Cut the squash in pieces four or five inches square; do not remove
the rind; bake them like potatoes, and serve in the same way. To be
eaten with butter.
238 1ST THE inTCHEN.
STEAMED SaUASH.
Cut it in large pieces, and put them unpared in the steamer; when
thoroughly done take them out, scrape the squash from the rind into a
saucepan, season well with butter, salt, and a little cream; heat and
serve.
BOILED CAULIFLOWER.
Remove the leaves, cut off the main stalk close to the flower, wash
it thoroughly; lay it in boiling milk and water slightly salted, with the
stalk down; cover, and boil moderately; when done, lay it in the colan-
der, being very careful not to mar the flower; when well drained, serve
in a vegetable-dish with the flower up, and pour over it a rich drawn
butter.
CAULIFLOWER BROWNED.
Boil until very tender, drain well, and cut in small pieces; put it
in layers with fine chopped egg and this dressing: half a pint of milk
thickened over boiling water, with two tables poonfuls of flour and
seasoned with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of white pepper, and two
ounces of butter; put grated bread over the top, dot it with small bits
of butter, an'd place it in the oven to heat thoroughly and brown. It
must be served in the dish in which it is baked. Poor, scraggy heads
of cauliflower may be used in this way, and the perfect ones kept to
boil whole. Use a pound and a quarter of cauliflower.
CAULIFLOWER WITH CHEESE.
Ten ounces of soft-boiled cauliflower.
Three ounces of grated cheese.
Two ounces of butter.
Half a gill of rich milk.
VEGETABLES. 239
One teaspoonful of salt.
Haifa teaspoonful of pepper.
Grated bread.
This may be baked in an oval china dish with the precaution of
putting it in a pan of water; put a layer of cauliflower in the dish,
sprinkle it with a little of the cheese, and dot it with small bits of but-
ter; in this way fill the dish, reserving a little butter for the top; mix
the salt and pepper with the milk, pour it over the cauliflower, then
cover with the bread, spot it with butter, and bake until thoroughly
heated and of a light brown color.
STEWED CABBAGE.
Slice cabbage as for cold slaw, cover with water, and stew in a cov-
ered saucepan until tender; pour off the water, add a bit of butter, —
about two ounces to a dish holding three pints, — and pepper, salt, and
vinegar to the taste; stir it as little as possible; let it simmer a few
minutes, when it is ready to serve.
CABBAGE DRESSED WITH CREAM.
Cut the cabbage and stew it as in the above receipt; drain it,
return it to the saucepan, add a gill or more of rich cream, one ounce
of butter, pepper and salt to the taste; let it simmer two or three min-
utes, then serve. In this receipt milk may be used instead of cream
with a little more butter.
CABBAGE BOILED WITH PORK.
Two pounds of pork.
One head of cabbage.
Boil the pork an hour, then score the rind in lines or squares, and
240 IN" THE KITCHEN".
place it in the oven to brown; divide the cabbage in four or more parts,
not removing the stalk, as that prevents its falling to pieces; put it in
the water from which the pork was taken, and boil three quarters of
an hour; drain it thoroughly without breaking; cut off the .stalks, and
serve, the rounded side up, on a platter, with the pork in the centre.
STUFFED CABBAGE.
A large head of cabbage.
One pint of force meat made of any tender meat with all the fol-
lowing ingredients, save the yolk of one agg.
Two thirds of a gill of chopped suet.
Half a gill of fine bread crumbs.
One small onion.
One small nutmeg.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One third of a teaspoonful of pepper.
One third of a teaspoonful of marjoram.
Two eggs.
Take out the stalk, and enough of the cabbage from the centre to
leave room for the force meat; wash the cavity with the reserved yolk,
fill it with the force ineat, tie in a cloth, and boil three hours or more.
Serve on a platter with drawn butter, and garnish with parsley.
SATJEB, KRATTT.
MliS. BURKITT, PEKN.
Have a tight and perfectly sweet barrel; shave into it about half
a bushel of cabbage, and with a long-handled mallet pound it until the
juice can be readily squeezed out in the hand; sprinkle a handful of
VEGETABLES. 241
salt over it; then put in another layer of cabbage, pound, and sprinkle
it with salt, and proceed in this way until the desired quantity is packed.
One quart of salt is sufficient for a barrel; no water is necessary. If
the cabbage is sufficiently pounded there will be plenty of juice. Put
a heavy weight on it, and let it stand in a warm place until it ferments;
then put it in a cool place. "When using, take out evenly, and keep it
well covered.
BOILED ONIONS.
Select them of uniform size and not very large, and remove the
outer skin; boil them until perfectly tender, in quite a large quantity
of milk and water, to make the flavor more delicate; drain them, and
put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter and a gill of cream;
season with pepper and salt.
FRIED ONIONS.
Peel and slice them, then fry in butter or drippings; turn them
often, being very careful that they do not burn; season with pepper
and salt, and serve very hot.
BAKED ONIONS.
Put four or five unpeeled Bermuda onions in a saucepan of boiling
water slightly salted, and let them boil fast for an hour; then take them
out, wipe them well, wrap each one in a piece of paper, and bake them
in a moderate oven for two hours, or longer if the onions are very large.
They may be served in the skins and eaten with a little butter, pepper,
and salt; or they may be peeled, and sent to the table with a good
brown gravy poured over them.
16
242 IK THE KITCHEN.
STEWED CARROTS.
One and a quarter pounds of carrots.
Two ounces of butter.
Two gills of cream.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
One pinch of cayenne pepper.
The yolks of two eggs.
Divide the carrots lengthwise unless quite small, and boil until
perfectly tender; take them from the water, slice them very thin in a
saucepan, add the butter, stir the salt and pepper in the cream, and pour
it over the carrots ; let them stew fifteen minutes, then put them in a
vegetable-dish, and leave the saucepan with the cream on the stove;
when it boils, stir in the well-beaten yolks, and pour over the carrots.
CARROTS DT A MOULD.
One and a half pounds of carrots.
Half a gill of cream.
Three ounces of butter.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Half a small nutmeg.
One pinch of cayenne pepper.
Boil the carrots until very tender (this dish is really unpalatable
if the carrots are not perfectly soft), take them from the water, chop
them, add the butter and the cream, in which has been mixed the salt,
pepper, and nutmeg; put in a buttered mould, and let it stand in the
oven until thoroughly hot. Serve in a vegetable-dish or on a platter,
garnished with curled parsley.
VEGETABLES. 243
CARROTS WITH CURRY.
Stew young carrots and cut them in four lengthwise; to half a
gill of the water in which they were stewed add one gill of cream, and
an ounce of butter rubbed with half a tablespoonful of flour, a little
salt, and a teaspoonful of curry powder; let it simmer in a saucepan
until thickened; slide in the carrots, cover for a few moments, then
serve hot.
SCALLOPED OYSTER-PLANT.
One and a half pounds of stewed oyster-plant.
Three ounces of butter.
Half a gill of milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
A pinch of cayenne pepper. »
The oyster-plant must be boiled until perfectly tender, then taken
from the water and rubbed through the colander; add two ounces of the
butter and all the other ingredients; if not hot enough to melt the but-
ter, put it on the range for a few minutes, mix well, and put in a baking-
dish or in a vegietable-dish, with the precaution of placing it in a pan
of water; cover the top with very fine grated bread, and spot it with
the remaining ounce of butter; put it in the oven, and when a beautiful
brown it is ready to serve.
Celery salt, which gives a delightful flavor, may be substituted for
one half the quantity of salt in this receipt.
SALSIFY CROQUETTES.
Prepare the salsify as in the above rule, and place it on ice ; when
perfectly cold make it into croquettes. Have ready the beaten yolks of
241 IN THE KITCHEN.
two eggs and the white of one, seasoned with the third of a teaspoonfut
of salt and a pinch of pepper; roll the croquettes in this, and then in
grated bread ; lay them in the frying-basket, plunge them in hot lard,
having first tested its heat with a bit of bread; when a golden brown,
lift, drain, and serve.
STEWED SALSIFY.
Scrape it well, cut in round slices, and stew it barely covered with
water; when perfectly tender pour off all but a gill of the water, add
half a gill of rich cream, two ounces of butter rubbed with an even
tablespoonful of flour, pepper and salt to taste, and let it simmer a few
minutes, then serve.
BOILED PARSNIPS.
"Wash and scrape them; boil them whole until very tender; cut
lengthwise in slices, and cover with cream thickened with a little flour
and seasoned with a small bit of butter, a little pepper and salt.
FRIED PARSNIPS.
Boil them whole as in the above receipt ; cut them lengthwise in
slices a third of an inch thick, sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and sugar
over them, dredge with flour on both sides, and fry a light brown.
SCALLOPED PARSNIPS.
One and a half pounds of parsnip puree.
Three ounces of butter.
Half a gill of milk or cream.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
A pinch of cayenne pepper.
VEGETABLES. 245
Mix thoroughly together, and cover with grated bread dotted with
butter; put it in a vegetable-dish that may be trusted in the oven, in a
pan of water, and let it remain until thoroughly heated and browned.
PARSNIP BALLS.
Prepare the parsnips as in the above rule. After mixing it with
the other ingredients, let it become cold, then make it into round or
flattened balls, cover them with beaten egg and grated bread, place
them on the frying-basket, and fry in deep lard.
BOILED TURNIPS.
Peel them, and boil until perfectly tender; pour over them a drawn
butter, or a hot cream thickened with a little flour and seasoned with
butter, pepper, and salt.
MASHED TURNIPS.
Pare and slice them very thin, and boil them in a great deal of
water, much more than enough to cover them; keep them boiling, as
they are whiter for being cooked quickly. When perfectly tender pour
them in the colander, and press them as dry as possible; then put them
in a tin pan on the range, mash them thoroughly, and stir them until
they lose their watery- appearance; then season with butter, pepper,
and salt; a little rich cream is a great addition.
Turnips are served with mutton and with spare-rib.
BOILED BEETS.
"Wash but do not cut them; leave an inch of the stalk on the beet
to prevent its "bleeding." The time for boiling depends on the age
of the beet; in summer, when very young, an hour is sufficient, but in
246 IK THE KITCHEN.
winter they require nearly a day; they are unpalatable unless perfectly
tender. When boiled throw them in a pan of cold water, and slip
off the skins; if small, cut them twice lengthwise; if a good size, slice
them yery thin and put them over boiling water to heat thoroughly.
Boil togethpr one third of a gill of vinegar, with two thirds of a gill of
water, one and a half ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of brown sugar,
one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper; pour it over
the beets ; this is sufficient for a quart or more of sliced beets. Serve
very hot.
LETTUCE.
The firm white Ice Lettuce can hardly be equalled ; but it has been
found too delicate to bear carrying to market and can therefore be en-
joyed only by those who raise it. In buying lettuce, select small, com-
pact heads. Wash the lettuce carefully, and leave it in ice-water until
wanted; then dry it in a towel, cut it in quarters, and pour over it
"Mrs. B 's Salad Dressing" (see page 203).
Or, pour over it a thin dressing of three parts oil and one of vine-
gar, with salt and pepper to the taste. Some will not suffer the lettuce
to be touched with a knife; it is wrung in a napkin, " fatigued " as it is
termed, and then covered with the thin dressing. It is sometimes
^fatigued " in the salad-bowl with a silver fork and spoon. When let-
tuce is cut fine and dressed it may be garnished with hard-Jboiled egg,
cut in quarters, and little mounds of grated red beet, with a few grains
of vegetable rice.
CUCUMBEES.
Leave them in ice-water until wanted; then pare them lengthwise,
being very careful to remove all green, as that is very bitter; cut them
in the dish in which they are to be served in very thin slices, sprinkle
VEGETABLES. 2l7
the layers with a little salt and pepper, and pour good eider vinegar over
them about half their depth in the dish. Fresh young onions are by
many considered a great addition ; they should be sliced thin as pos-
sible, and scattered through the layers of cucumbers.
RADISHES.
"Wash them nicely, leave about two inches of the top, cut the fibres
from the bulb, and let them lie in ice- water for an hour; serve in a
white china shell with bits of clear ice.
CELEEY.
This delightful vegetable, used moderately every day as a salad, is
said to have wonderful power to relieve nervous affections.
CELEEY AS A EELISH.
In England this is served in the last course at dinner with bread,
butter, and cheese. Here, it is generally on table during the first and
second courses. To prepare it for the table, it must be washed care-
fully, using a brush to remove particles of sand which adhere to it.
It is important to have it very cold and crisp, and this may be secured
by keeping it in ice-water for an hour or more. Keep the outer stalks
to cut arid stew for soups, and serve only the heart and the surrounding
pieces which are perfectly blanched; put them in the celery-glass with
cold water and cracked ice.
DRESSED CELERY.
For this dish avoid all the coarse, greenish stalks, leaving them for
the soup-kettle. Have the celery thoroughly chilled and, crisped in ice-
248 IK THE KITCHEN.
water, and just before it is required wipe it dry, cut it in bits half an
inch long, and pour over it " Mrs. B 's Salad Dressing " (See
page 203) .
As this dressing keeps a long time, it is well to have a glass can
of it in the refrigerator ready for celery, cold vegetables, fish, etc.
MACEDOINE, OR SALAD OF COLD VEGETABLES.
The summer vegetables left from dinner — peas, string-beans, shell-
beans, and beets — may be used in this way either together or sep-
arately. Chill them on the ice, cover them with a mayonnaise, or any
other salad dressing, and garnish with the small, crisp leaves of lettuce.
SALAD OF RED BEETS AND POTATOES.
The potatoes should be firm, not too much boiled nor mealy. The
beets must be boiled very tender; when cold cut them both in pieces
about half an inch square; pour over them a salad dressing; garnish
with curled parsley.
ASPARAGUS SALAD.
Boil the asparagus as for a vegetable, cut off the hard ends, and
put the rest away to cool; cut in pieces two inches long, and pour over
it, in the centre of the dish, a mayonnaise dressing. Garnish with the
very small white hearts of firm heads of lettuce ; a few capers may be
.strewn over the 'dressing.
BEET SALAD.
Boil a deep-red beet until quite tender; pare, and cut it in dice.
Have a root or two of endive, well blanched, washed and dried; six but-
ton onions, and two stalks of celery cut. Rub the yolk of a hard-boiled
VEGETABLES. 249
egg with a little salt, a little powdered sugar, mustard, and enough
thick and slightly sour cream to dress the salad, and vinegar to the
taste; and remember that the ingredients should be so perfectly appor-
tioned and so well mixed that no one is more perceptible than the
other. Pour it over the beet, etc., garnish and serve.
ONION SALAD.
"Wash, peel, and cut the onions in very thin slices; barely cover
them with water, and let them boil eight minutes; drain, and rinse
quickly in ice-water; drain thoroughly; salt and sweeten vinegar to taste,
pour it over the onions, place them in the refrigerator, and when chilled
serve ; they should not stand more than half an hour.
POTATO SALAD.
Mix one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, two
tablespoonfuls of finely-cut parsley, and two of grated onion, with a gill
of vinegar and half a gill of oil. Slice cold boiled potatoes in pieces
an inch across, and not very thin; pour the dressing over them and let
them stand half an hour before serving. This quantity of dressing is
sufficient for two quarts of sliced potatoes.
COLD SLAW.
Shave the cabbage on the cabbage-cutter as fine as possible. A
very sharp carving-knife may be used instead of the cutter; let it lie
in ice-water an hour; then drain, and dry it in a towel. It maybe
dressed simply with vinegar, pepper, and salt, or with " Cold Slaw Dres-
sing " (see page 202) ,
250 IN THE KITCHEN.
A NEW SALAD, 0E "GREENS."
Young shoots of the common wayside sweet elder. Tender, suc-
culent, and wholesome, requiring no cultivation.
COLD ROAST FOWL, A LA MAYONNAISE.
One fowl.
Five hard-boiled eggs.
Five or six heads of lettuce.
Water-cresses.
Roast a nice young fowl; when cold, cut and pile the joints one
on another in the centre of the dish, as high as you can; arrange
around, as a border, the lettuce cut in halves, and some nicely-washed
water-cresses. Cut the eggs across, and lay them with the whites up-
permost among the cresses and lettuce, or cut into rings, which have
also a very pretty effect. When ready to serve, cover the fowl with
mayonnaise dressing.
ROAST BEEF SALAD.
Gbuman.
Cut cold roast beef as for chicken salad; mix mustard, sweet or
sour cream, pepper, salt, capers, and some of the caper vinegar; pour
over it and serve for tea. Cold mutton may be used in the same way.
CHICKEN SALAD.
Cut cold boiled chicken (use the water in which it was boiled for
soup) in bits about the size of a shelled almond. Have twice as much
celery as chicken ; clean it thoroughly, and leave it in ice- water for an
hour or more; on taking it out, wipe, and cut it about as thin as
VEGETABLES. 251
cucumbers are sliced; mix it well with the chicken and with the dressing,
Avhich may be " Chicken Salad Dressing " (page 202) or " Mayonnaise "
(page 203). It is sometimes mixed with the first, and when served,
covered with the other. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, sliced or in
quarters, and the delicate leaves of the celery or the hearts of lettuce.
Olives, and small stars or diamonds cut from a boiled crimson beet are
also used. Where turkey takes the place of chicken the salad is called
Olio. Veal may be used in this way; and very tender white cabbage,
crisped in ice-water, is sometimes used with veal instead of celery.
Lacking celery, a nice chicken salad maybe made with the inner leaves
and tender stalks of lettuce, adding Burnett's Extract of Celery to the
dressing.
DRESSED TOMATOES.
The tomatoes should not be dead ripe; let them lie on ice for an
hour or more before cutting them; then, with a very sharp knife, pare
the top and bottom, and slice them very thin. They are often served
with a mayonnaise dressing, but the usual way is to mix some salt,
pepper, and sugar with a little vinegar, and Dour it over them.
252 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 253
254 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 255
256 POK ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
EGGS.
E G GrS.
257
TO KEEP EGGS.
Put one pint of unslacked lime and one pint of coarse salt in a
three-gallon crock; pour a teakettleful of boiling water over them, and
when dissolved fill the crock with soft water. Pack the eggs in stone
crocks, and fill with the brine. I have known of eggs being preserved
in this way for two years.
TO BOIL EGGS.
Be sure that they are fresh; if not perfectly clean wash them; lay
them carefully in water that is boiling moderately only, that the shells
may not crack; let them boil two and a half minutes. If wanted very
hard, with the yolk quite dry, boil them fifteen minutes. Serve in a
napkin.
FRIED EGGS.
After frying ham, drop the eggs one by one, in the hot fat, and dip
it over them until the white is set. They may be served alone or on
the ham ; or they may be fried in other fat, and served on broiled ham.
EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
One quarter of a pound of butter.
Half a pint of scalding milk.
One tablespoonful of flour.
One tablespoonful of minced parsley.
One fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper.
17
258 nsr the kitchen.
The juice of half a lemon.
Six or seven eggs.
Stir the flour and half of the butter in a stewpan over the fire until
the mixture thickens ; stir in the hot milk, add the pepper, and let it
simmer a few moments; cream the rest of the butter, and beat in the
lemon-juice and parsley. Have the eggs boiled seven or eight minutes,
and cut in quarters lengthwise; if they are boiled until the yolk is
mealy the white will be found tough;, add the creamed butter to that
in the saucepan, allow a minute for thorough heating, pour over the
eggs and serve. Unless the butter is quite salt a little more salt must
be added.
A similar dish without the parsley and lemon is also excellent.
PLATE EGGS.
Butter a plate, drop three eggs on it, and leave it on the stove or
in the oven until the white of the egg is set; sprinkle with a little salt
and pepper, and serve.
SCRAMBLED EGGS, NO. L
Twelve eggs.
Four ounces of butter.
One teaspoonfnl of salt.
Cut half of the butter in small bits, put it with the eggs, and beat
them very light; put the rest of the butter in the frying-pan, and when
hot pour in the eggs, add the' salt, and stir until nearly as thick as
desired; have the dish well warmed (not hot enough to cook the egg)
and serve immediately. It is better to add pepper at the table, as it
mars the color of the egg when cooked with it.
EGGS.
259
SCRAMBLED EGGS, NO. 2.
Two ounces of butter.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
A little pepper.
Six eggs.
Heat the butter in a frying-pan; break the eggs in a bowl, and
throw the salt over them ; pour them (unbeaten) into the hot butter,
and as they cook, scrape them from the sides and bottom of the pan.
Cooking them in this way leaves strips of the white and yellow through
the dish. If this is not liked, the eggs may be beaten before they are
put in the frying-pan, and stirred constantly while cooking to avoid the
large pieces. Be careful not to let them get stiff, nor to have the dish
on which they are served too hot. When served, sprinkle with pep-
per.
One gill of milk or cream may be added to the beaten eggs, in the
above receipt, and they may be scrambled in a baking-dish, and sent in
it to the table.
POACHED EGGS.
Have ready a frying-pan of slightly salted boiling water, deep
enough to cover the eggs ; break in six, and do not let the water boil
again. Toast six pieces of bread, and trim them neatly down to the
size of the egg; when cooked, butter and arrange them evenly on a
heated platter, and as soon as the white is set lift the eggs carefully,
and lay them on the toast. Serve immediately. This may also be
done by dropping the eggs in buttered cups, placing them in a pan of
c-old water, and boiling until the egg is sufficiently cooked to be taken
out. The pan must be covered.
260 IN THE KITCHEN.
EGGS A LA CEEME.
Boil twelve eggs from twelve to fifteen minutes. Line a dish with
very thin slices of bread and fill it with layers of the egg cut in slices,
strewing them with a little grated bread, pepper, and salt. Rub a quar-
ter of a pound of butter with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and put it in
a saucepan with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, half an onion
grated, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and half a pint of cream or milk- when
hot pour it over the eggs, cover the top with grated bread, put it in
the oven, let it heat thoroughly, and brown.
SCOTCH EGGS.
Twelve ounces of cold chicken or veal chopped.
Two ounces of ham chopped.
Half an ounce of flour.
Half a pint of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Six hard-boiled eggs.
The yolks of two eggs.
A small pinch of cayenne.
Grated bread.
Mix the flour smooth in a little of the milk, putting the rest over
boiling water to scald ; when the milk is hot stir in the flour, and let it
cook until like thick cream ; then pour it over the butter, which must
be cut in small pieces and sprinkled with the salt and pepper; then
mix it well with the chicken and ham, and leave it to cool. Take the
shells from the egg?, cover them as evenly as possible with the force-
meat, preserving the form of the egg; then cover with the beaten yolks,
roll them in the bread, lay them in the frying-basket, and plunge them
EGGS. 261
in deep, hot lard, the heat of which has been tested with a bit of bread.
When they are a golden brown lift the basket, lay the eggs for a mo-
ment on brown paper, then serve on a napkin on a plate, in the form
of a circle, and garnish with curled parsley.
HOW TO MAKE AN OMELETTE.
To prepare an omelette, use a frying-pan about the size of a break-
fast plate; see that it is perfectly clean, and place in it about one ounce
of butter. Break three eggs and beat them up with a little parsley and
a pinch of salt; the eggs should not be beaten too much, as it makes
them thin and destroys the appearance of the omelette. "When the
butter is melted pour the omelette mixture in the frying-pan; as it
cooks raise the edge with a knife, and press it slightly towards the
centre; the moment it is thickened, or "set," fold the omelette and
serve. If a cheese omelette is required, add a tablespoonful of grated
cheese to the mixture; if one with sweetmeats is desired, spread the
omelette with a thin layer of the fruit just before folding. Tomatoes
left from dinner may be used in the same way, and grated onion may
take the place of grated cheese. In preparing an omelette remember
five things : a clean pan ; the eggs must not be too much beaten ; the
omelette must not be too large, — three eggs are better than six eggs,
which make two omelettes; they should not be too much cooked; they
should be eaten immediately, or they become tough and more like a
pancake.
MABGARET'S BAKED OMELETTE.
Pour half a pint of scalding milk on two even teaspoonfuls of
flour rubbed smooth with one ounce of butter, two thirds of a tea spoon-
ful of salt, and a pinch of white pepper; add this to six eggs beaten
262 12* THE KITCHEN.
very light; stir in a tablespoonful of parsley chopped fino. Spread one
ounce of butter in a frying-pan that will go in the oven, pour in the
egg, and bake in so moderate an oven that it will not brown. The
instant the egg is set, fold the omelette and serve.
NAMLAT OMELETTE.
Six eggs.
One gill of new milk.
Half a gill of minced parsley.
Two ounces of butter, melted.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of white pepper.
Beat the yolks until thick; add all the ingredients save the whites
of the eggs, which must be beaten to a stiff froth and stirred in gently ;
pour in a buttered baking-dish, and bake from five to ten minutes in a
quick oven.
"GENTLEMEN'S SAVORY OMELETTE."
Margaret.
One pint of finely-chopped parsley (not pressed in the measure) .
Three ounces of softened butter.
Two tablespoonfuls of grated bread.
Two tablespoonfuls of grated ham.
One third of a teaspoonful of pepper.
One shalot or onion.
Six eggs.
Beat the eggs thoroughly, add the other ingredients, mix well;
pour in a hot buttered frying-pan, and cook it in front of the grate or
in a moderate oven. When the egg is set, fold and serve.
EGGS. 263
BREAD OMELETTE.
Half a pint of bread crumbs.
Half a pint of cream.
Two ounces of butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
A quarter of a nutmeg.
Three eggs.
Put all these ingredients but the eggs and one ounce of the butter
in a saucepan on the range, stirring occasionally, until the cream is
absorbed ; take it off, and beat in the eggs. Have the rest of the butter
hot in a frying-pan ; pour in the mixture, loosen it often from the sides
to let the uncooked part run in, and the moment it is set, lap one side
over the other, pass a knife under it, lay a platter across the frying-
pan, holding it firmly with the left hand while you turn the frying-pan
upside down, leaving the omelette in perfect condition on the platter.
Serve immediately.
264 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOE ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 265
266 FOR ADDITIONAL. RECELPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 267
268 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 269
BUTTER, CHEESE, Etc.
BUTTER.
The location of the milk-room, its ventilation and cleanliness, are of the first importance.
Cellars are often too damp for milk; a cool room above ground is better, — one that may be well
afted and devoted entirely to the milk; for it so easily takes the flavor of what is near it
that no vegetables, fish, nor meats, either salt or fresh, should be in the same room. Next in
importance are the milk-pans, which must be perfectly clean and well-scalded.
The following directions are from a butter-maker of experience and great reputation in
Madison Co., N. Y.
MRS. JOHN CAMPBELL'S RECEIPT.
In cold weather warm the milk to blood heat before straining it.
Never allow the milk to stand over forty-eight hours; in summer not
more than thirty-six, and twelve hours will often be found quite long
enough; churn twice a week even if there be but a small quantity of
cream. Keep the crock of cream, during the summer, in the coolest
place you have, and every time cream is added stir it well. In cold
weather place the crock of cream by the fire the night before churn-
ing, turning it occasionally and stirring the cream until it is milk
warm; then remove it to a cold room; in the morning put it in the
churn, when a few minutes' churning will bring the butter. (A t this
season of the year, owing to the lack of pasture, the butter is of a
very pale color. Ochre is sometimes used to give it a yellow hue, but
Mrs. Campbell's receipt for coloring it is given with these directions.)
In hot weather put ice in the churn, broken into small bits, one and a
270 US' THE KITCHEN.
half pounds to four gallons of cream ; let it stand about ten minutes
before churning, to equalize the temperature of the cream. When the
butter has " come " and " gathered," take it up in the hand, squeezing
out the buttermilk quickly; put it in the wooden butter-bowl, and work
into it one ounce of fine salt to every pound of butter; lay in it, for
the above quantity, a piece of ice weighing one and a half pounds, and
leave it in as cool a place as possible.
The next clay work out all the water and milk, but be careful not
to go beyond this, as the grain of the butter is often broken by tpo
much working. Make it into rolls, or pack it in stone crocks or fir-
kins. If not to be used at once pour a brine over it, made after the
following rule.
BRINE FOR PRESERVING BUTTER DURING THE SUMMER.
Half a pail of water.
One quart of fine salt.
One ounce of saltpetre.
Two ounces of white sugar.
Boil all together, skim, and when cold pour it over the top of the
butter.
FOR COLORING BUTTER.
For four gallons of cream grate two, three, or four carrots, accord-
ing to size and color; add enough new milk to extract the juice; make
it about milk Warm, and strain it into the churn.
DR. ANDEBSON'S RECEIPT FOR CURING BUTTER.
Let two parts of fine salt, one part saltpetre, and one of sugar be
completely blended together by beating, and add one ounce of this mix-
B OTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 271
tnre to every pound of butter; incorporate it thoroughly in the mass,
and close it for use. The butter thus prepared should be kept two or
three weeks before using; if properly cured, according to the above
directions, it will remain for three years so perfectly sweet as not to be
distinguished from newly-made, salted butter.
BONNY-CLABBER.
For this dish the milk should sour and thicken quickly ; before it
has thickened it may be poured in any shallow glass or china dish, and
when thick placed on the ice for an hour or two before serving. There
is no objection to serving it in the pan, if it be bright and clean, and the
bonny-clabber cold. If there is cream on the surface leave it unbroken;
a saucer or a shallow ladle may be used for helping it, and when not in
use should lie on a plate, not in the bonny-clabber. To be eaten from
deep dessert-plates, sprinkled with brown sugar and a little grated nut-
meg, with sweet cream poured around it, not over the top, hiding the
beauty which is half its charm. After the bonny-clabber has been dis-
turbed, whey collects in^ the bottom of the pan ; be careful to avoid it in
the second helping.
CURD OR SMEARCASE.
Put a pan of thick sour milk on the back of the stove where it will
heat slowly; it must not boil or be allowed to simmer; as the lower
part becomes warm, turn it gently with a skimmer, and when the whey
is well separated, pour it in a colander, and leave it an hour or more to
drain. It may be drained in a small strainer, which will at the same
time serve as a mould, or it may be tied in a cloth to drain. This is
eaten with sugar and cream, or a little salt and cream.
272 EN THE KITCHEN.
COTTAGE CHEESE. »
Add to curd, salt to the taste, and cream, or batter and a little
milk may be used; mix it well, and press it into a mould, or make it
into small balls. In serving, garnish with parsley.
When the curd is taken from the mould, it may be cut in slices two
thirds of an inch thick, and served with a little cream poured over it.
CHEESE HUFF.
' Qne and a half ounces of butter.
Four ounces of crumbed cheese.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of pepper.
Four eggs.
Put the cheese and butter in a saucepan on the fire; when they
begin to melt add the eggs well-beaten, and the salt and pepper; stir
and cook until you can push it up into a soft muff-shaped form. Serve
at once.
EAMAKTNS, OB RANAQU1N A LA TJDE,
Cook to Louis XVI.
Four ounces of grated cheese.
Two ounces of butter.
Two ounces of bread (without crust).
Half a gill of milk.
One third of a teaspoonful of mustard.
One third of a teaspoonful of salt.
Small pinch of cayenne pepper.
Two eggs.
Crumb the bread and boil it soft in the milk; add the butter, mus-
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETO.
273
tard, salt, pepper, and cheese, and the yolks of the eggs; heat thor-
oughly, then stir in the whites of the eggs, whisked to a stiff froth.
Pour in a soup-plate or in small squares of stiff white paper pinched at
the corners, and bake fifteen minutes.
A delightful dish for tea.
WELSH RAREBIT.
VERY SIMPLE AND DELICIOUS.
Toast bread quickly, without allowing it to dry; cut off the crust
eveuly with a sharp knife; butter it and cover it with thin slices of
cheese, spread very lightly with made mustard; lay it on a pie-plate,
and place in a hot oven until melted; cut in halves or thirds, and serve
immediately.
WELSH RAREBIT, NO. 2.
Take as many eggs as you wish, according to the number of
guests ; weigh them and take one third the' weight in cheese and one
sixth in butter; beat the eggs well in a saucepan, after which put in
the butter and cheese, the latter grated or chopped very small. Place
the saucepan on the fire and stir until the mixture becomes sufficiently
thick and soft; add a little salt and a large proportion of pepper, and
serve in a warm dish.
FROMAGE.
Half a pound of grated cheese.
Half a pint of cream.
The yolks of two eggs and the white of one.
A small pinch of cayenne pepper.
Beat the eggs very light, add the cream, then the cheese and pep-
per; pour it in buttered soup-plates, and bake fifteen minutes.
18
274 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 275
276 FOR ADDITIONAL, RECEIPTS.
"YEAST. 277
YE J± S T .
Of all yeast, from brewers down to the farmer's " salt risin' "
and " miik risin'," I know of none more convenient than the " Twin
Brothers" and the "National Company's Yeast Cakes," made in
Waterloo, N". Y. They require no other care than being kept dry.
The cakes are half an inch thick and one and a half inches square;
one cake is sufficient for four loaves of bread, and needs but ten
minutes' soaking before the bread is mixed.
Of home-made yeasts, the receipts which follow have been in use
for many years, and found admirable.
POTATO YEAST WITHOUT HOPS.
Boil three pounds and a quarter of potatoes; mash them fine with
one quart of flour and one quart of boiling water; mix thoroughly;
add two gills of white sugar, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and one
quart of cold water; when lukewarm add one yeast-cake soaked in
two tablespoonfuls of water.
When very light pour it through a colander; put it in a jug, but
do not cork it tight for two or three days, when it will settle. Shake
the jug well before using, but with the cork out.
POTATO YEAST WITHOUT FLOUR.
A handful (one quarter of an ounce) of hops.
Four pounds of pared potatoes.
278 IN THE KITCHEN.
Half a pint of salt.
Half a pint of sugar.
One tablespoonful of ginger.
Four quarts of water.
Two yeast-cakes soaked in four tablespoonfuls of tepid water.
Boil the potatoes in three quarts of water and pass them through
the colander with the water; boil the hops ten minutes in one quart of
water, and strain the water on the potatoes; add the sugar, salt, aiul
ginger. The whole quantity should measure five quarts; if lacking, add
tepid water. When lukewarm stir in the yeast, having mixed it
smoothly after soaking; keep it in a warm place until light, which will
be indicated by bubbles on the surface ; it does not increase in bulk like
thicker yeast. Keep it in a stone crock, cover, and in using, stir it up
from the bottom. In a dry, cool place it will keep for months. A gill is
sufficient for one quart of milk or water, and the bread requires but
little, if any, additional salt.
Reserve a gill or half pint of this yeast for raising a second supply.
PURE POTATO YEAST.
One pound and a half of pared potatoes.
One pint of boiling water.
One pint of cold water.
One gill of white sugar.
One gill of yeast.
Slice the potatoes and boil them, drain off all the water, then mash
them through the colander, adding the boiling water; stir in the cold
water and sugar, and when lukewarm add the yeast (a yeast-cake
soaked in two tablespoonfuls of water, with sufficient water added to
make a gill, may be used instead of the liquid yeast) ; leave it in a warm
TEAST. 279
place for two or three hours, or until bubbles come on the surface, when
it may be put in a jug and kept in a cold place, leaving- it but loosely
corked for the first twelve hours ; after that, press the cork firmly in.
The advantage this yeast has over others is that so large a quantity
maybe used that the bread rises very quickly, and thus the danger of its
becoming sour is avoided. (See page 284.) It should be made every
week, but it is possible to keep it two weeks in a refrigerator. A sec-
ond making may be raised with a gill or half pint remaining from the
first supply. Make the yeast in the afternoon, and the bread the next
morning, or it may be made in the morning, and still leave time for
making the bread the same day.
WHITESBORO' YEAST
Six large potatoes (one pound and fourteen ounces when pared).
Three pints of cold water.
Four ounces of sugar.
One and a half ounces of salt.
Quarter of an ounce of hops (a handful).
Half an ounce of ginger.
One gill of soft yeast, or one yeast-cake soaked five minutes in two
tablespoonfnls of tepid water.
Pare the potatoes and grate them in a tin pan; tie the hops in a
bit of muslin, put them in a kettle with the water, and boil ten minutes;
pour the scalding water on the potatoes; add the salt, sugar, and gin-
ger; set the pan on a kettle of boiling water and stir occasionally until
it is like a thick batter; remove it, and when lukewarm add the yeast
to raise it; let it stand in a warm place until the next day. "When it
has ceased to rise put it in a jug, cork tight, and leave it in the cellar.
Shake well before using, but always with the cork out. This yeast will
280 IN THE KITCHEN.
keep three weeks in warm weather, and as many months in cold
weather.
YEAST.
Montgomery.
A handful of hops.
Two quarts of cold water.
One pint of flour.
Half a pint of yeast.
One tablespoonful of salt.
(This handful means the quantity that can be held in a nearly
closed hand.) Boil the hops and waiter slowly for three quarters of an
hour; strain, boiling hot, on the flour and salt, gradually at first, in order
to mix smoothly; strain through the colander into a stone crock; when,
tepid add the yeast and leave it in a warm place to rise ; when light,
cover, and keep in a cool place.
MRS. PROF. YARMOL'S YEAST.
This requires no yeast to raise it, and has been called " the best
yeast in the world." Time to boil, half an hour; to make, four days.
Three pounds of potatoes.
Half a pint of flour.
Half a pint of best brown sugar.
One pint of hops.
Two even teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two gallons of water.
Monday morning boil the hops in the water for half an hour, strain
it in a crock, and let the liquid become milk-warm; add the salt and
sugar, mix the flour smooth with some of the liquor, and then stir
YEAST. 281
all well together. On "Wednesday add the potatoes boiled and mashed,
stir well, and let it stand until Thursday- then strain, and put it in
stone jugs, but for the first day or two leave the corks quite loose; stir
the yeast occasionally while making, and keep near the fire. " It should
be made two weeks before using, and will keep any length of time, im-
proving with age." Keep it in a cool place, and shake the jug before
pouring from it, but with the cork out, holding the palm of the hand
over the mouth to prevent the escape of the yeast. ,
282 LN" THE KITCHEN.
BRE^D.
Nothing on the table so ensures the health and contentment of the family as good bread;
nothing in the whole science of cookery gives such satisfaction, and nothing so establishes
one's respect for the cook. In making it how many conditions are to be secured, how many
are vital to success! The flour must be excellent, the yeast perfect, the quantity of salt exact,
and all the proportions correct; if milk is used, it must be new. and in warm weather it must
be scalded, and then cooled until but lukewarm; the batter must be of the right temperature
when the yeast is put in: if hot, the life of the yeast is destroyed; if cold, much time is lost in
rising. The room must be of the proper degree of heat, and the bread must stand where the
same temperature surrounds it, not on the hearth, exposed to draughts from doors, but on a
shelf or table. There is a circular rack, easily attached to the pipe of a cooking-stove, which
supplies an excellent place for raising bread, keeping it warm above and below, being at a con-
venient height for watching, and entirely out of the way. This rack is also useful for many
purposes, — for warming plates, keeping dishes hot, drying fruit, etc. It would be a most val-
uable addition to a range if made to fit the flat pipe. Where there is a space of three and a
half feet above the range, light iron racks may be fastened in the brick ten inches below the
top of the arch; these are very convenient for drying towels as well as for raising bread and
biscuit. Bread must not be allowed to get too light, and so to lose flavor or become sour;
should it become too light in the last rising, take it from the pans and work it over; and
if sour, work in thoroughly a little soda dissolved in boiling wpter. Kneading must be
thorough. The heat of the oven is all-important: if too low, the bread becomes too light
before baking; if too high, a hard and sometimes burnt crust covers the loaf. It must be taken
from the oven at the right time, evenly and thoroughly baked, neither burned nor clammy, and
when baked, instead of smothering it in woollen and cotton, leave it exposed to the air until
thoroughly cold, to ensure a crisp oru:st; then put it away in a well-aired, clean stone crock,
and keep i't closely covered.
Flour so differs in quality that it is difficult to give a receipt that may always be followed
with the same results. A much larger quantity of some flour is required than of others for an
equal measure of water. For this flour of which so much is necessary, boiling water should be
used. Bread mixed with milk is much more tender than that mixed with water; it requires
less flour and less kneading.
I have tried to make these directions and the following receipts so clear that any young,
person of intelligence, who lias never been in the kitchen and therefore has no "judgment " to
BREAD. 283
help her, can follow them to the letter and be rewarded with good bread. As to heating the
oven, she must have instructions peculiar to her own stove or range. I am told that the, heat
required for baking bread is 325°; but as thermometers for testing the heat of ovens are
not in common use, we must do the best we can with the old indefinite rules: The heat
is right if you can count thirty fast or twenty moderately while holding the bare arm in
the oven; it is right if half a "teaspoonful of flour, placed on the floor of the oven, browns
in one minute with the door shut. In the dim distance there is the dawning of an admi-
rable plan by which we can know the exact heat of an oven without so much as opening
the door. In the mean time, let us gratefully continue to burn our arms and brown the flour,
until, by constant care and watchfulness, the hand may be trusted to serve as thermometer,
and the art of bread-baking be learned to perfection.
In all cooking it is very important that the dress should be adapted to the work; but
bread-making requires special attention, not only to the dress but to the most thorough tidi-
ness and cleanliness of head and hands. A clean calico apron with bib, the sleeves of the
dress well-tucked up and so pinned that they will not tumble down at critical moments add
much to the comfort of this work.
It is said that bread loses sweetness by many risings. I begin, therefore, with a receipt
which requires but one rising.
BREAD RAISED BUT ONCE.
Three quarts of sifted flour.
One quart of milk and water.
One tablespoonful of salt.
One gill of yeast or one yeast-cake.
Scald a pint of milk and cool it with a pint of water; pour it on
two quarts of the flour and the salt, in a five-quart bowl or pan ; mix
well, add the yeast, beat hard for five minutes, stir in the rest of the
flour; then flour the board, place the dough on it, and knead vigorously
for fifteen minutes, using barely enough flour to prevent sticking. "With
practice a little flour will go a great way. The hands and board must
bo very lightly coated withit, that as little as possible may be added to
the bread. This quantity of dough, kneaded fifteen minutes, requires
284 IN" THE KITCHEN".
nearly a pint of flour. Mould into loaves and place them in buttered
pans which they will but half fill; leave them to rise, until the bread
has reached the top : at 80° this will require from five to six hours ; at
a low temperature it may stand over night. When light, prick, and
bake. If the yeast-cake is used, soak it in two tablespoonfuls of water,
then stir it until smooth, and add water until it measures a gill.
This bread retains much more of the flavor of the wheat than that
which is raised several times. It may be mixed with water, or milk
alone.
BREAD RAISED BUT ONCE. (Pure Potato Yeast.)
Half a pint of yeast.
Half a pint of scalding milk.
Three and a half pints of flour.
One gill and two tablespoonfuls of cold water.
One teaspoonful of sugar.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
A bit of butter half as large as a nutmeg.
Put the flour in a bowl with the salt and sugar, make a hollow in
the centre, and pour in half of the milk, stirring in enough of the flour
to make a batter; add the two tablespoonfuls of water, and let it stand
while you add the butter to the other gill of milk, and cool it with the
gill of water; when the batter is lukewarm stir in the yeast, and the
milk and water (being sure they are not too warm), and the rest of the
flour; then put it on the floured board and knead ten minutes, using as
little flour as possible; mould into loaves, and put them into buttered
pans which they must but half fill ; cover, and leave until the bread
reaches the top of the pan, which will be in from two to three hours in.
a temperature of from 80° to 8S°, then prick and bake.
BREAD. 285
BEEAD RAISED TWICE.
Montgomery.
Three pounds and a quarter of sifted flour.
One quart of tepid water.
One gill of yeast.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Mix the bread at four p. m. in winter, and the last thing at night in
summer. Sift two pounds of flour in a five-quart bowl, add the salt
and water, and beat very thoroughly, add the yeast and the rest of the
flour; lay the dough on the floured board, scraping the bowl perfectly
clean; knead for ten minutes, using barely enough floxir to prevent
sticking; flour the bowl, return the bread to it, cover, and leave it in a
warm place to'rise. In the morning, when light, divide into four loaves;
mould, lay them in buttered pans, and when light, prick, and bake.
These loaves are so small they require but thirty or forty minutes for
baking.
BEEAD WITH POTATO. (Two Risings.)
Three pounds and a quarter of flour, sifted.
One boiled potato, weighing (unpared) half a pound.
One quart of warm water.
One gill of yeast.
One even tablespoonful of salt.
Mix at night; put the flour in a large bowl, hollow a place in the
centre for the mashed potato, water, and salt, stir in enough of the flour
to make a smooth batter; add the yeast, and stir in the rest of the flour;
put the dough on the floured board, and knead it fifteen minutes, using
barely enough flour to prevent sticking; flodr the bowl, lay the dough
286 1ST THE KITCHEN.
in it, cover, and leave to rise. In the morning divide it into four parte,
mould into loaves, and when light, prick, and bake in a moderate oven.
BEEAD WITH THREE RISINGS.
One quart of warm water.
One gill of yeast.
Three and a half pounds of flour.
One tablespoonful of salt.
Mix at night, in a five-quart bowl, two pounds of flour with the
water, which may be quite warm when poured on the flour; but the
batter should be only lukewarm when the yeast is added. Beat
it very thoroughly, then leave it to rise in a temperature of
75°. In eight hours it will be within an inch of the top of the
bowl ; then stir in the rest of the flour and put the dough on the floured
bread-board, scraping the bowl perfectly clean; knead it fifteen minutes,
using barely enough flour to prevent sticking. Flour the bowl, put
back the dough for an hour longer, or until of the same bulk as in the
first rising. This quantity will make four loaves, baked in pans ten
inches long, five wide, and two and a quarter deep. Flour the board,
put the dough on it, and knead ten minutes; cut it into four equal
parts, form them into loaves, and lay them in the buttered pans ; leave
them ah hour, or until the bread has reached the top of the pan; then
prick the loaves deep, in three or four places, or press the side of the
hand an inch deep through the centre of the loaf, and put them in the
heated oven. (For degree of heat see page 283.) These small
loaves require but half an hour's baking. On taking them from the
oven, leave them to cool, uncovered, on a sieve, that the crust may
be crisp. If potato is liked in bread add half a pint, well mashed, to
BUEAD. 287
the sponge, which should be mixed with the water in which the potato
was boiled, adding sufficient warm water to make a quart.
BREAD RAISED WITH PURE POTATO YEAST. (Three Risings.)
Scald a pint and a half of milk in the oven, or over boiling water.
Have ready four and a half pounds of sifted flour in a pan; make a
hollow in the centre and pour in half a pint of the milk, stirring in
enough of the flour to make rather a thick batter ; add a gill of cold
water, and let it stand until lukewarm; to the pint of hot milk add half
an ounce of butter (a bit the size of a large nutmeg) , two even tea-
spoonfuls of sugar, and a tablespoonful of salt; then cover, and set it
aside; add three gills of yeast to the batter, mixing in more of the
flour, and leave it to rise an hour at from 90° to 95°; add a pint
of hot water to the milk (hot enough to make it lukewarm), pour it in
the sponge, and stir in all of the flour; flour the board, place the dough
on it, leaving the pan perfectly clean, and knead it into a smooth mass,
using as little flour as possible; flour the pan, replace the dough, and
leave it to rise two hours; knead it again (if sufficiently light the air-
bubbles will not exactly " break into singing," but will really sing in
breaking), and mould into loaves; put them in evenly but slightly
greased pans which they will but half fill, and in an hour, or when risen
to the top, prick and bake. The bread may remain in the second rising
over night, but, of course, in a very much cooler place than when
intended to rise quickly; 60° would not be too low.
BLUE ISLAND BREAD.
One yeast-cake.
One and a quarter pounds of pared potatoes.
One pint of the water in which the potatoes are boiled.
288 IN THE KITCHEN.
One gill of flour.
Two tablespoonfuls of salt.
Two quarts of warm water.
Seven pounds of flour.
Soak the yeast-cake in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water, boil the
potatoes, mash them through the colander with the boiling water, on
the- flour and salt. "When lukewarm add the yeast, and leave
it to rise, allowing seven hours in a temperature of from 70° to 74°,
so, if the sponge is made at two p. m., the bread may be mixed
at nine p. m. "When the sponge is light put the flour in the bread-pan
and pour the water in the centre; when enough of the flour is stirred
in to make a batter add the sponge, stir well, and mix in all of the
flour; then flour the board, place the dough on it, and knead for twenty
or thirty minutes, using barely enough flour to prevent the dough from
sticking to the board and hands ; lay it in the floured pan, and rub half
an ounce of butter over the top, cover the pan, and leave it to rise until
morning, when it should be twice its first bulk. If at all sour, dissolve
a teaspoonful of soda in boiling water, and work it most thoroughly
through the mass, then make it into eight or nine loaves, — they must
but half fill the pans, — and when risen to the top, prick and bake.
Much has been said against the use of acid and alkali, and we all
know that they are often used unskilfully, and with a far too large pro-
portion of the alkali, thus making bread, biscuit, and cake most of-
fensive. Professor Horsford has scientifically selected and combined
them in his " self-raising flour '." "We have Baron Liebig's authority for
the healthfulness of this preparation in an extract from a letter to
Prof. Horsford : —
" I have, through a great series of experiments, satisfied myself of
BKEAD. 289
the purity and excellence of your Bread Preparation. The bread has
no acid, is easily digested and of the best taste; aside from the conve-
niences this invaluable idea of yours has provided, I consider this inven-
tion as one of the most useful gifts which science has made to mankind.
It is certain that the nutritive value of flour will be increased ten per
cent by your Phosphatic Bread Preparation, and the result is precisely
the same as if the fertility of our wheat-fields had been increased by
that amount. What a wonderful result is this ! "
SELF RAISING BREAD.
This is made in a few moments, and is ready at once for the oven.
To one pint of flour add one pint of milk; stir only enough to mix
well, then put it in a buttered basin in the oven, and keep it covered
until well risen, otherwise it makes too stiff a crust; then remove the
cover. When baked, cool on a sieve.
There is a kind of bread much in use among farmers, commonly
called " salt risin" or " milk emptins"; salt rising, if made with water,
milk emptyings, if made with milk. It is light, sweet, tender, and very
white, and is especially convenient where yeast can neither be made nor
obtained. The peculiar odor which it often has, does not necessarily
belong to it; it is the result of carelessness in allowing the bread to
stand too long in rising.
SALT RISING.
Pour a pint of hot water in a two-quart pail or pitcher, on half a
teaspoonful of salt; when the finger can be held hi it add one and a
18
290
IN THE KITCHEN".
third pints of flour; mix well, and leave the pitcher in a kettle of water
as warm as that used in mixing; keep it at the same temperature until
the batter is nearly twice its original bulk, which will be in from five
to eight hours; it may be stirred once or twice during the rising. Add
this to a sponge made of one quart of hot water and two and a half
quarts of flour, adding as much more as may be necessary to make a
soft dough; mix well, and leave it in a warm place to rise; when light,
mould into loaves, keeping them soft as possible; lay them in buttered
pans, and when light again, prick and bake.
GRAHAM BREAD.
Take one pint of light bread-sponge and thin it with a pint of warm
water; add two tablespoonfuls of molasses, a teaspoonfnl of salt, and
sufficient Graham flour to make a stiff batter that can be stirred with a
spoon ; put it in well-buttered pans and when light, bake. It requires
longer baking ^han white bread, and the pans require more butter.
GRAHAM BREAD WITHOUT FINE FLOUR.
Three quarts of Graham flour.
One quart of warm water.
Two gills of yeast.
One gill of syrup.
One tablespoonful of salt.
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly, put it in well-buttered pans,
and leave it in a warm place to rise, or let it rise over night at
60°. If left to rise slowly let it remain in the bowl in which it was
mixed, and unless very light when put in the pans let it stand fifteen or
twenty minutes before putting it in the oven. Brown bread does not
require pricking.
BREAD. 291
GRAHAM BREAD FROM PURE POTATO YEAST.
Three pints of Graham flour.
Three gills of tepid milk and water, equal parts.
One gill of syrup or molasses.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a pint of yeast.
Scald the milk and cool it with the water; beat all the ingredients
thoroughly together, and leave it to rise. In a cold room, 54°, it may
stand from nine to ten hours, but it may be made, baked, and
the pans washed, dried, and put away in less than half that time, if
raised at a temperature of from 90° to 95° degrees. When light, if
near breakfast or tea time, a part of it may be dropped into gem-pans,
allowed to stand ten or fifteen minutes, then baked. The bread may be
put in pans and smoothed over the top, or it may be moulded into loaves
on the slightly-floured board. If disturbed as little as possible, with the
spoon only, it need stand but from ten to twenty minutes to regain its
lightness, but if moulded it requires more time.
The following receipt is from a New York gentleman, — the result
of his own experience.
HERMIT BREAD.
inexpensive: sweet with its own sweetness.
Closely grind two thirds wheat and one third corn, separately.
Sift the latter only, and boil it at least seven hours, — a little burning does
not injure it, — add salt to the taste; mix it tolerably stiff with the wheat
meal; bake in large loaves in a slow oven. It may be eaten hot or
cold; it keeps moist and sweet for a long time. The proportions may
be varied, or rye added, if desired.
292 - IN THE KITCHEN.
It is affirmed by the State chemist of Massachusetts that corn can-
not be wholly assimilated unless cooked seven hours. This I proved
for myself: I lived upon this bread an entire winter in the woods, eating
nothing else, and gaining constantly in health and weight.
CORN BREAD.
One quart and half a pint of corn-meal.
One quart of fine flour. One quart of thick sour milk.
Half a pint of molasses.
Three even teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved in two teaspoonfuls of
boiling water.
One tablespoonful of salt.
Mix thoroughly, put in well-buttered pans, and bake in a moderate
oven. This quantity makes two loaves in two-quart basins.
If Graham flour is used instead of the fine flour, but one quart of
the corn-meal is necessary.
BOILED CORN BREAD.
4 Mrs. I. N. Bukbitt.
One pint and one gill of sweet milk.
One pint and one gill of buttermilk or sour cream.
"Half a pint of molasses.
One teaspoonful of soda.
Three teaspoonfuls of cream tartar.
One even tablespoonful of salt.
One pint and one gill of corn-meal.
One pint and one gill of flour.
Sift the soda and cream of tartar in the flour; mix all the ingredients
thoroughly together and put in a buttered tin pail; cover closely, place
it in a kettle two thirds full of boiling water; cover, and boil steadily
BREAD. 293
for three hours, replenishing when needful with boiling water. To be
eaten hot with butter.
STEAMED CORN BREAD.
Rochester, N. Y.
Three quarters of a pound of corn-meal.
Four ounces of flour.
Half an ounce of butter.
One pint of thick, sour milk.
One gill of molasses.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of soda.
One egg.
Mix the soda smooth in a little of the milk; put all the ingredients
together in a large bowl, and beat until thoroughly mixed. Butter a
two-quart basin, pour in the batter, and steam it two hours and a half;
then put it in the oven and bake it half an hour. To be eaten warm.
BREAD PUFFS.
If the wheat bread is light enough for the oven at breakfast time,
have ready some hot lard in a deep kettle; with the thumb and two
fingers pull up some of the dough quite thin, and cut it some two or
three inches in length ; as these pieces are cut, drop them in the lard
and fry like doughnuts. At table they are eaten with butter like bis-
cuit; they are also served in a vegetable-dish with a dressing of hot
cream seasoned with pepper and salt.
ITALIAN BREAD.
One pound of bread dough.
A quarter of a pound of softened butter.
294: IN THE KITCHEN.
"Work the butter well into the dough, and roll out about half an
inch thick; cut into strips nearly an inch wide, and seven or eight
inches long; sift over them fine corn-meal, place them apart on a but-
tered pan, and when light, bake in a quick oven.
BREAD BISCUIT.
One pint of dough ready to bake.
Two ounces of butter.
The white of an egg, beaten stiff.
Soften the butter, and knead all together for five or ten minutes ;
roll, cut, or mould into biscuit; lay them in a buttered pan, and when
light, prick and bake.
MABY TANEY'S BISCUIT.
Four pounds of bread dough.
Half a gill of melted drippings.
The whites of two eggs.
Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, and with the hand mix all thoroughly
together, leave to rise, and when light, roll out and Cut with a small tin
cutter; lay the biscuit in buttered pans, let them rise, then prick and
bake.
FOB aiJICK BISCUIT, OB A TEA LOAF.
Miss Simons.
Save from the baking a small piece of dough about the size of an
egg; keep it in something close and small, so the dough will not spread.
"Warm slightly a pint of milk, dissolve the dough in thisj thicken
with flour until as thick as pound-cake ; add one tablespoonful of lard,
one of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Set it to rise; when very
light mould into biscuit; let them rise again, then prick and bake.
BREAD. 295
To make them more quickly it is better to have the flour slightly
warmed.
GENEVA ROLLS.
One pint of new milk.
One pound and a half of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
Half a teaspoonful of soda.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One gill of yeast.
About eight a. m. scald the milk and pour it in a basin with the
salt and butter; stir in the pound of flour, and when lukewarm add the
yeast; leave it to rise; about one p. m., or when light, add the rest of
the flour and leave it to rise again; about four i\ m. add the soda, dis-
solved in a tablespoonful of boiling water; knead it in thoroughly;
roll, cut, or form into rolls; place in buttered pans, and when light
prick and bake. Remember that the time required for the different ris-
ings depends on the heat to which the dough is exposed.
VINEY'S FLANNEL ROLLS.
One pound and two ounces of flour.
Two and a half ounces of butter.
Two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Two tablespoonfuls of yeast.
Half a pint of cold sweet milk/
The whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.
Make a batter at night with the milk, sugar, and nearly half of the
flour; in the morning soften and cream the butter, and stir it in the
batter with the eggs, add the rest of the flour, and leave it to rise. When
296 IN THE KITCHEN.
light, mould it into small oval rolls, using as little flour as possible;
place them in French roll or gem-pans, cover, and when light again, prick,
and bake in a quick oven.
EXCELLENT EOLLS.
One and a half pounds of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
Two ounces of lard.
One pint of milk.
One gill of yeast.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One egg.
Mix these rolls at ten a. m. if for tea at six, unless the weather be
quite warm, when less time is required.
Scald the milk over boiling water and pour it on the beaten egg;
stir it, and add the butter and lard. When cooled to blood heat mix
in one pound of the flour and the yeast, and put it in a warm place to
rise; when light add the remaining half pound and let it rise again;
then roll out, cut into biscuit, lay them in buttered pans, cover them,
and when light, prick, and bake in a quick oven.
FKTJIT ROLLS.
One and a quarter pounds of flour.
One and a half ounces of butter.
One pint of milk.
One egg.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a yeast-cake soaked in a tablespoonful of tepid water.
Boil the milk and pour it on the butter and salt; when nearly cool
BREAD. 297
add the egg and half of the flour and the yeast; leave it in a warm
place to rise. When light, knead in the rest of the flour and let it rise
again, then with your hands make it into rings in this way : roll on the
board a piece of the dough about nine inches long and as large around
as your little finger, and pinch the ends together; the joining cannot
be seen when it is baked. Lay them in buttered pans, and leave them
to rise; when light, prick and bake.
These are called f' Fruit Rolls" from their being nice to eat with
fruit and cream. They are nearly all crust, very crisp and delightful.
BRENTLEY BEEAKFAST ROLLS.
One and a quarter pounds of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of new milk.
One egg.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a yeast-cake.
Soak the yeast-cake in a teacup with a tablespoonful of tepid
water for ten minutes; put the milk and butter over boiling water to
warm until the butter is softened; put'the flour and salt in a two-quart
basin; with the left hand pour the milk gradually into the centre of the
flour, stirring with the right hand. Before all the flour is mixed add
the beaten egg and the yeast, then beat all well together and leave it to
rise. In the morning roll out the dough an inch thick. It is soft, and
requires a good deal of flour to prevent its sticking to the board and
the rolling-pin, but be careful not to work it in; cut in strips two inches
wide, and these in lengths of four inches ; or make oval rolls with the
hand if preferred. Grease gem-pans, lay in the rolls, and when light,
prick, and bake half an hour.
298 IN THE KITCHEN.
This quantity makes twelve good-sized rolls ; if any are left they
are very nice cold for dinner, cut in two, lengthwise, through the upper
and lower crusts.
If the weather is warm these rolls may be mixed at nine P. m. and
left in a room where the temperature is 68°. This gives time in the
morning for the second rising and baking by eight o'clock. In cold
weather the dough should be kept in a warm place over night.
FBENCH ROLLS.
Mks. Stkattan.
One pound of flour.
Nine ounces of potato.
One teaspoonful of sugar.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One gill of warm milk.
One egg.
One and a half ounces of lard.
Two gills of cold water.
Half a yeast-cake soaked in a tablespoonful of tepid water.
Pare and slice the potato, cover it with the cold water, and boil
until tender, then rub it through the sieve with the water; add the
lard, sugar, and salt, and a tablespoonful of the flour; leave this to rise
in a warm place. When light beat in the egg, add the milk, and knead
in the flour; leave it to rise again, and when light make into oblong
rolls, and lay them in buttered pans. "When light again, prick and
bake.
An easy way to make the rolls of uniform size is to roll out the
■ dough half an inch thick, and cut it with a round tin cutter ; press the
opposite sides together, and mould into rolls.
BREAD. . 299
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS.
One quart of flour.
One ounce of lard.
Half a pint of milk.
Haifa gill of yeast.
Half a tablespoonful of sugar.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
In the evening put the flour in a bowl ; put the salt and lard in the
milk, and warm until the lard is melted; when the milk is lukewarm
add the yeast, pour into the centre of the flour ; mix it to a thin
batter; cover, and leave it in the cellar. In the morning work it thor-
oughly and let it rise. Two hours before tea roll it out two thirds of
an inch thick, cut with a tin cutter, four inches across; with a feather
coat half of the top with melted butter, and lap it nearly over the other
half, then draw them out a little to make them roll-shaped; lay them
apart in buttered pans, and when light, bake.
MRS. COBLEIGH'S DRIED BISCUIT.
One pound of butter.
Three pounds of flour.
One quart of boiling milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One yeast-cake soaked in two tablespoonfuls of water.
Eight eggs.
Put one and a half pounds of the flour, with the butter and salt,
in a large bowl, stir in the milk; beat the eggs very light, and when the
batter has cooled a little put them in; then add the yeast, having first
mixed thoroughly with it one or two tablespoonfuls of the batter; then
300 IN THE KITCHEN.
stir in the rest of the flour, cover, and leave it in a warm place to rise.
"When light, roll, make into biscuit of whatever form you please, and
lay them in buttered pans to rise again; when light, prick and bake.
After baking they must be separated and thoroughly dried in rather a
cool oven ; they will keep for months. "When used they are rolled on
the pasteboard, and are very nice for puddings and for frying oysters.
They are also, when first baked, delightful for the table.
POTATO CAKES.
One and a half pounds of pared potatoes
Two and a half pounds of sifted flour.
Two ounces of butter.
Two ounces of lard.
One pint of milk.
One gill of yeast.
One tablespoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Mix at ten A. m. unless the weather is very warm. Boil the pota-
toes, mash them through the colander, on the butter and salt; warm the
milk and lard, beat the eggs, and mix all together with half or more
of the flour; add the yeast, work in the rest of the flour, and leave it
in a warm place to rise. At four p. M. roll out and cut into biscuit, lay
them in buttered pans, and when light, prick and bake.
SODA BISCUIT.
One pound of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
One ounce of lard.
BREAD. 301
Three gills of sweet milk.
One even teaspoonful of soda.
Three even teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar.
Sift the soda and cream of tartar through a bit of tarlatan or a very
fine sifter, into the flour, and mix it well; rub the butter very fine
through the flour, stir in the milk, then lay the dough on the floured
board, work it very lightly into shape; roll, cut, lay in pans, prick, and
bake in a quick oven. The dough may be cut, rolled, and baked like
" Italian Bread " (see page 293). This shape is by many much preferred
to the round biscuit.
SHORT CAKE.
One quart of flour.
One pint of thick sour milk.
One and a quarter teaspoonfuls of soda.
One third of a teaspoonful of salt.
Six ounces of butter.
Put the flour in a bowl; put the sour milk in the centre with the
soda dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling water, the salt and the butter
stirred to a soft cream; beat thoroughly, before mixing in all of the
flour; stir in the whole, place it on the floured board, and form it quickly
into a smooth mass; roll it out about one third of an inch in thickness,
cut in small cakes, prick, and bake in a quick oven.
BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT.
One pound of flour.
One ounce of butter.
Two ounces of lard (it must be sweet and firm).
Three gills of sweet milk.
302 IN THE KITCHEN.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Five teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
The baking-powder must be taken up in the teaspoon, slightly
pressed, and made even by passing the side of the knife blade directly
over it; pnt it with half a gill of the flour, and sift it into the rest of
the flour through a very fine sieve; mix thoroughly, then rub the but-
ter, lard, and salt through the flour until quite fine; pour in the milk,
mix lightly, place it on the floured board, and roll it out without any
kneading; cut, prick, and bake in a quick oven.
MARYLAND BISCUIT.
One pound of flour.
One ounce of lard or butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Two gills of sweet milk.
Put the lard in the salt and flour, and rub it until very fine; add
the milk by degrees; then lay the dough on the bread-board and knead
it hard for twenty or thirty minutes, using barely flour enough to pre-
vent its sticking. In Maryland they have a machine for this purpose;
but kneading with the hands is capital exercise, and if persevered in
fifteen or twenty minutes will show you, beyond contradiction, that the
" flight of time" of which we hear so much, is a mere myth. When
you see blisters on the dough, and it snaps in breaking, it has been
sufficiently kneaded; then roll out half an inch thick, cut, put in the
pan, prick in three places, and bake in a quick oven.
The old Maryland cooks would be shocked at the bare idea of
rolling and cutting these biscuit, for they mould every one separately,
making all of the same size, and the last touch is the pressure of the
ball of the thumb in the centre of the biscuit. Such skill is ac-
BREAD. 303
quired only by long practice, whereas the other way is easy for all, and
very good.
GOSSAMER BEEAD.
One pound of flour.
Three ounces of butter.
Two tablespoonfuls of yeast.
One egg.
Mix all these ingredients together, and roll the paste to a thin
sheet; fold it, and beat it fifteen minutes with a rolling-pin; roll out
as thin as possible on a baking-sheet, exit in four-inch squares, and bake.
ANGELS' FOOD.
Half a pound of flour.
Half an ounce of lard or butter.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One gill of sweet milk.
Rub the lard thoroughly through the flour, add the other ingredi-
ents, knead the dough fifteen or twenty minutes, roll as thin as paper,
lay it on baking-sheets, score it in four-inch squares, prick well, and
bake.
LAPLANDERS,
One pint (eight ounces) of Graham flour.
One pint of warm water.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One egg, well beaten.
Have the gem-pans heating in the oven, which must be very hot,
much hotter than for biscuit.
Beat the egg with one or two spoonfuls of the water; add the
304 IN THE KITCHEN.
salt, half of the water, and the flour; beat thoroughly, then stir in the
rest of the water. Put the pans on the range, butter them, using a
swab on a stick, pour in the batter, and put them immediately in the
oven. The batter may be mixed in a pitcher, and poured into the gem-
pans.
Made with milk instead of water, the above are sometimes called
Graham puffs.
BBEAKFAST PUTTS.
Three quarters of a pound of flour.
One ounce of butter.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Beat the eggs and stir them in the milk; put the flour and salt in a
two-quart bowl, stir in about two thirds of the milk, add the melted
butter, beat very hard for three minutes, then thin the batter with the
remainder of the milk; pour in well-buttered gem-pans; bake in a
quick oven.
GRAHAM POP-OVERS.
Half a pint of Graham flour.
Half a pint of White flour.
One pint of milk.
One even teaspoonful of salt.
Two eggs. (If double the rule is required, three eggs will do.)
Put the flour and salt in a two-quart bowl, stir in half of the milk,
add the eggs, and beat hard for three minutes; stir in the rest of
the milk. Have the gem-pans buttered and hot, then pour in the
BltEAD. 305
batter and bake in a quick oven. The batter may stand fifteen minutes
without harm.
NUNS' PUFFS. (For Tea.)
Quarter of a pound of butter.
Half a pound of flour.
One pint of milk.
Nine eggs.
Put the milk and butter in a saucepan on the range, having first
rinsed the saucepan in water to lessen the risk of burning; as it breaks
into boiling, put in the flour, and stir until it does not stick to the sauce-
pan. "When cool, beat in the yolks of the eggs, add the whites beaten
to a stiff froth. Butter cups, or deep patty-pans, half fill them with the
batter, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven.
AUNT POLLY'S GOOD CAKE.
One pound and three quarters of flour.
Four ounces of lard.
One pint of milk.
Haifa gill of yeast.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Three eggs.
If these are wanted for tea, mix them at ten in the morning.
Put the milk and lard together, and leave them over boiling water
until the lard is melted; when the milk is somewhat cooled stir in one
pound of the flour, the salt, and the yeast, and beat thoroughly; cover
and put it in a warm place to rise. When light add three eggs, the
whites beaten to a stiff froth, and the remaining three quarters of a
20
306 TK THE KITCIIEX.
pound of flour. When light again roll out, cut into biscuit, lay them
in buttered pans, and when light, prick, and bake in a quick oven.
RUSK.
Two pounds of flour.
Three quarters of a pound of sugar.
Seven ounces of butter.
One pint of warm milk.
Three eggs.
Half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling
water.
Half a yeast-cake, soaked in a tablespoonful of tepid water.
Mix the milk, the beaten yolks of the eggs, one and a half pounds
of the flour, and the yeast thoroughly together, and leave it to rise over
night. In the morning cream the butter and mix it with the sugar, and
the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and add them with the soda
to the dough, and work thoroughly together with the hand, kneading
in the other half pound of flour; let it rise again in a warm place, then
roll it out, using as little flour as possible for the board and rolling-pin;
roll it half an inch thick, then cut in circles and put them in buttered
pans. A tin cutter two and a half inches across makes them a pretty
size. As soon as they are light, prick, and bake in a quick oven; lay
them on a sieve when they come from the oven, and do not cover them,
as that would destroy the crispness of the crust.
BON BEAC.
One pound and fourteen ounces of flour.
One quarter of a pound of sugar.
BREAD.
307
One quarter of a pound of butter.
Six ounces of English currants.
One pint of new milk.
One gill of yeast.
Two eggs.
Make a batter at night with about one half of the flour and the
milk in which the butter has been melted; add the yeast, being careful
that the batter is not too warm. In the morning add the eggs, sugar,
fruit, and the rest of the flour ; lay it on the board, using only flour
enough to prevent its sticking; make it into three loaves, and lay them
in buttered pans ; when light, prick and bake.
To be eaten either hot or cold.
WHIGS.
Two pounds of flour.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pound of sugar.
One and a half pints of milk.
Three quarters of a yeast-cake.
Six eggs.
Cream the butter, and add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs,
beating them well together. Put three fourths of the flour in a large
bowl, and stir in all the milk; add the sugar, etc., then the whites of
the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, then the yeast-cake, which must have
been soaked in one and a half tablespoonfuls of tepid water for five
minutes, lastly, the remainder of the flour; mix thoroughly, and leave
in a warm place to rise; when light, drop it in patty-pans or muffin-
rings, and bake in the oven. Serve hot for tea
308 rsr the kitchen.
SALLY LUNN.
One and a half pounds of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of milk.
Two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a yeast-cake, soaked in a tabl'espoonful of water.
Two eggs.
Warm the milk and butter over water until the butter is melted;
beat the eggs in a two-quart tin pail, and if the milk is not hot pour it
over them; stir in about half of the flour, then add the yeast, stirring
thoroughly, and the rest of the flour. Unless the weather is quite
warm allow five hours for rising.
GRAHAM GEMS.
Fourteen ounces of Graham flour.
One pint of cold water.
Two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Beat well together; let the batter stand ten minutes; put the gem-
pans on the range, and drop in every one a bit of butter the size of a
small bean; when very hot fill them with the batter, let them remain
on the range for five minutes, then bake half an hour in a hot oven.
GRAHAM FINGERS AND THUMBS.
One pound of Graham flour.
Two ounces of butter and one ounce of lard.
Three gills of sweet milk.
BREAD. 309
One teaspoonful of salt, one of soda, and three of cream of tar-
tar.
Throw the salt in the flour, and sift in the soda and cream of tar-
tar through the finest wire-cloth sieve; if this is not at hand rub them
through a hit of tarlatan held tight over a cup; then stir them with the
hand thoroughly all through the flour, rub in the butter and lard very-
fine, add the milk, and mix lightly; flour the board, lay the dough on
it, barely mould iti shape, then roll it half an inch thick and cut half
of it in strips six inches long and one inch wide; put a little corn-meal
on the corner of the board, roll the strips in it, until round aud well
coated, and lay them in the buttered dripping-pan with a little space
between; put them in a hot oven. Cut the rest of the dough with a
round biscuit-cutter, lap one side over the other, and draw them out a
little, then bake them. The thumbs may be served with the fingers,
where they naturally belong, but look better on a plate by themselves,
leaving the fingers crossed and piled in the form of a triangle.
GRAHAM ROLLS.
Massasoit House.
One quart of Graham flour.
One quart of white flour.
One and a half pints of tepid water.
One gill of molasses.
One gill of yeast.
Two ounces of drippings or butter.
Two even teaspoonfuls of salt.
Mix all thoroughly together with a spoon and leave in a warm
place to rise ; when light, drop in buttered roll-pans and bake. For
breakfast, mix at night.
310 IN THE KITCHEN.
GRAHAM WAFERS.
Haifa pound of Graham flour.
Two gills of sweet cream.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Mix, roll thin as possible, cut in squares, lay them in tins, prick
well, and bake in a quick oven.
BRUISS.
Half a pound of Graham bread.
Two ounces of butter.
Three gills of milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One third of a teaspoonful of pepper.
Cut the bread in ordinary slices, and then in bits an inch square ;
pour the milk over it, and let it stand fifteen minutes, then put it on the
range, let it heat slowly until just rising to boil. Serve in a covered
dish. Crusts of Graham bread may be used, but require long soaking;
soak them in shallow water, that the pieces may keep in shape.
CRACKERS A LA PREZEL.
Dissolve an even tablespoonfnl of salt in a pint of cold water; split
Boston crackers, dip the halves one by one in the salt water, butter
them, and place them in the oven to crisp. To be eaten hot for tea.
BENJAMIN.
Half fill a vegetable-dish with broken ship-biscuit or any kind
of water cracker; fill the dish with boiling water, cover, and leave it
where it will keep hot; if any water is left when the crackers are per-
BKEAD. 311
feetly soft, drain it off, season the crackers with butter and salt, and if
convenient a few spoonfuls of rich cream; cover. Serve hot for tea.
RYE TOAST.
To one quart of rye-flour add one even teaspoonful of salt and suf-
ficient boiling water to make a stiff dough; put it in a buttered pan;
have a bright, clear fire, and the grate well raked; prop the pan in front
of the grate, and as a crust forms strip it off, and keep it hot and dry;
repeat this process until you have enough for a dish, then break it,
dress like cream toast, and serve in a deep dish.
DRY TOAST.
It is best to have this ordered from the table, as it should be served
the moment it is made. Make it as quickly as possible, and not of very
stale bread. If there are burnt edges scrape them lightly with a knife.
If a toast-rack is not used, so arrange the toast that the pieces may, as
far as possible, be exposed to the air; stand them up, letting the.tops
meet. If piled together it loses its crispness and becomes soggy.
CREAM TOAST.
One pint of milk.
One gill of cream.
Three ounces of butter.
One even teaspoonful of salt.
Half a tablespoonful of flour.
Put the milk and salt in a basin over boiling water; rub the butter
and flour smoothly together, and when the milk is hot stir them in, and
continue to stir occasionally until it is slightly thickened; then add the
312 IN" THE KITCHEN".
cream and let it scald. The bread must be toasted quickly, to prevent
its drying; if the edges are at all burned, scrape them lightly with a
knife; clip the pieces one by one in the cream, and place them evenly
in two piles in a deep dish; pour the cream over them, cover, and serve.
Without the gill of cream this dressing is very good.
KALAMAZOO MUFFINS.
One pint of thick sour milk.
One pint and a half of flour.
One and a third even teaspoonfuls of soda.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Three ounces of butter.
Two eggs.
Dissolve the soda in two teaspoonfuls of boiling water; melt the
butter, put all the ingredients in a bowl, and beat them thoroughly
together; drop in gem-pans or muffin-rings, and bake in the oven.
MUFFINS.
Miss Root.
One pound of flour.
Three ounces of butter.
One pint of milk. Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Two eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately.
Half a gill of yeast, or half a yeast-cake soaked in a tablespoonful
of water, with enough water added to make the same measure.
Warm the butter, milk, and salt, and pour it in two thirds of the
flour; mix well, and beat in the yolks thoroughly, and the yeast; beat
the whites to a stiff froth, and mix them gently in the batter; add the
liREAD. 313
rest of the flour, and leave in a warm place to rise for breakfast. If
wanted for tea, allow from four to six hours for rising. Bake in muffin-
rings in a dripping-pan, in the oven. The rings should be two thirds
full
BURLINGTON MUFFINS.
Ooe pound of potato, rubbed through the colander.
One and a quarter pounds of flour.
One ounce of butter.
One pint of warm milk.
One gill of yeast.
One teaspoonful of sugar.
One tablespoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Melt the butter in the hot potato, add the salt, sugar, milk, and two
thirds of the flour, mixing well ; break in the eggs, and beat until the
whole is quite light; add the yeast, being sure that the batter is not
more than lukewarm, then the flour; beat Well, and drop it in buttered
gem-pans, but half filling them; when light, bake half an hour. Allow
from four to six hours for rising. If the batter is light before the muffins
are wanted, put it in a cool place.
ENGLISH WATER MUFFINS.
One and a half pounds of flour.
One pint of tepid water.
Half a gill of yeast.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Beat all thoroughly together,' and let it rise over night; in the
morning flour the board, and roll out the dough very thin, using as little
flour as possible; cut out the muffins with the cover of a small tin pail;
314 IN THE KITCHEN.
they should be five inches across. Butter the griddle lightly, lay the
muffins on it, and leave them on the back of the stove for a short time
to rise; draw them forward, and then bake slowly, first on one side,
and then on the other; turn them often to keep both sides fiat. Tear
apart, butter, and serve three together, one above the other, cut across
the centre. These muffins can always be made from bread-sponge,
adding sufficient flour for rolling.
DABNEY MUFFINS.
One pint of milk and water, — equal parts.
Three pints of flour.
One and a half ounces of butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One gill of yeast.
Mix them at night; melt the butter in the milk and water, and when
lukewarm stir in the other ingredients. In the morning, when very
light, roll them out, each one separately, as thin as possible, in strips
four inches long and two wide; let them stand twenty or thirty minutes
in a warm place, then bake on a griddle without grease, turning them
constantly; this makes them much, lighter and keeps both sides flat.
When properly made they are so thin that there is hardly anything
between the two crusts.
CREAM MUFFINS.
Half a pint of flour.
Half a pint of sweet cream.
One third of a teaspoonful of salt.
Three eggs.
Beat the whites to a stiff froth, beat the yolks and salt, add the
cream gradually; stir in the flour, and then the whites very gently;
BKEAD. 315
bake in buttered gem or patty pans, in a quick oven, from ten to fifteen
minutes.
SIMPLE AND DELICIOUS MUFFINS.
One quart of flour.
One pint of warmed milk less two tablespoonfuls.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a gill of yeast.
i Mix at night, and beat until light. In the morning drop the well-
risen dough into buttered cups, let them stand twenty minutes, then
bake and serve. These can be made with water instead of milk, but
are much less tender.
RICE MUFFINS.
One quart of flour.
One pint of warmed milk.
One gill of warm boiled rice, soft but dry, — the grains distinct.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
One and a half ounces of butter.
' Half a gill of yeast.
Melt the butter in the rice; mix all the ingredients thoroughly,
being careful that the batter is not too warm for the yeast; mix at night,
and in the morning, when light, drop into buttered gem-pans; let them
stand fifteen or twenty minutes, then bake.
BUFFALO WAFFLES.
One pound of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
One quart of milk.
316 IN THE KITCHEN.
One gill of rice boiled in
Three gills of water.
Two even tablespoonfuls of baking-powder.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two tablespoonfuls of corn-meal.
Four eggs.
Melt the butter in the hot rice; sift the flour and powder together;
beat the eggs very light, and pour in half of the milk, the flour, salt,
and rice, beat thoroughly, and by degrees add the other pint of milk,
which should not be more than lukewarm. In baking, be careful to
leave room in the iron for rising.
WAFFLES WITHOUT YEAST OR SODA.
One pint of milk.
One pint, one and a half gills of flour. ,
Two ounces of butter.
Three eggs.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Melt the butter in the milk, and when sufficiently cooled mix it
with the flour and salt; beat the whites and yolks separately, stir the
yolks iii the batter, and then the whites, very lightly.
BARBYS WAFFLES.
One and a half pounds of flour.
One pint or less of boiled rice.
Two and a half pints of sweet, rich milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Put the rice in a four-quart bowl, separating the eggs, putting the
BREAD. 317
yolks with the rice; add the salt, flour, and two pints of the milk, beat-
ing very thoroughly, then the remaining half pint of milk; beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the batter, and beat well
together. "When thoroughly beaten make the batter still lighter by
lifting and pouring it with a tin cup for five minutes.
RAISED WAFFLES.
Axisr Byonb.
One quart of milk.
Ten ounces of butter.
One and a quarter pounds of flour.
Four eggs.
One gill of yeast.
Scald ihe milk and add the butter; when lukewarm mix in the
flour and yeast ; allow six hours for rising. Just before bakmg beat
the whites and yolks separately, and stir them in the batter.
CAROLINA CORN-CAKE.
One quart of thick, sour milk.
One and a half pints of corn-meal.
Haifa pint of flour.
Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter.
Two even teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two and a half even teaspoonfuls of soda.
Three eggs.
Sift the soda in the flour through a bit of tarletan; add the meal,
salt, two thirds of the milk, and the eggs well-beaten; mix thoroughly,
and add the rest of the milk; bake in patty-pans or in large pans, and
send to the table cut in square pieces.
318 1ST THE KITCHEN.
DELICATE CORN ROLLS.
One quart of milk.
One pint of wheat flour.
Half a pint of corn-meal.
One ounce of butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in two teaspoonfuls of the milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, sifted with the flour.
Two eggs, the whites beaten stiff.
Scald one pint of the milk over boiling water; add the butter, salt,
and the meal mixed smooth in a little of the cold milk; stir, and let it
cook until like thick mush; stir in the cold milk, and the yolks of the
eggs well beaten, then the flour and soda, and lastly, the whites of the
eggs, gently. Bake in gem-pans, in a quick oven.
CORN CRUST.
Alabama.
One pint of corn-meal.
One pint of boiling water.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of salt.
One teaspoonful of sugar.
One egg.
Pour the boiling water on the meal, sugar, and salt, mix well, stir
in the beaten egg, and spread thin in a small dripping-pan; smooth it
with a knife dipped in cold water, and score it. Bake in a quick oven.
CORN-CAKE.
Mi;S. CoWt.es.
Mix thorougJihj an even teaspoonful of dry cream of tartar into one
pint of white Indian meal, also a teaspoonful of sugar, and salt; warm
BREAD. 319
two ounces of butter, and mix well with the meal ; beat the yolks of
three eggs, and stir into the meal; add, very slowly, one pint of milk,
to make a batter thin enough to pour, then add half a teaspoonful of
soda, dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling water; lastly, put in the
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat it all thoroughly;
have the cups ready warmed, not hot, and buttered; pour in the batter;
bake from twenty minutes to half an hour.
RI'S COEN CUPS.
One pint of sifted flour.
One pint of thick, sour milk.
One and a half pints of corn-meal. *
One gill of molasses. ■
One and a half teaspoonfuls of soda, dissolved in one tablespoonful
of boiling water.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Put all the ingredients together in a four-quart bowl, and beat
until they are thoroughly mixed and light, then bake in cups or gem-
pans.
CORN DROPS.
One pint and one gill of cold milk.
Half a pint of corn-meal.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Two ounces of butter.
Two eggs, well beaten.
Put the pint of milk over boiling water, and when scalding stir in
the meal mixed with the gill of cold milk, the salt and butter; stir* well,
and cook until the batter is thick, like mush; take it from the fire and
320 IN THE KITG.IEN".
beat in the eggs until the whole is very light, then drop it in separate
spoonfuls on a buttered dripping-pan and bake in a quick oven.
PLAIN CORN DROPS.
Pour three gills of boiling water on one pint of corn-meal, two
ounces of butter, and half a teaspoonful of salt; add three tablespoon-
fuls of milk and two well-beaten eggs, and beat the mixture thoroughly;
drop it by spoonfuls in a well-buttered dripping-pan, and bake in a very
hot oven.
PONE.
Eleven ounces of corn-meal.
Two ounces of butter.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One pint of scalding milk.
Four eggs.
Pour the milk on the meal, the butter, and salt, and mix well; beat
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, then drop in the yolks of the eggs
one by one, beating hard; then add the whites of the eggs, beat all
thoroughly together, and pour it in two buttered tin basins; place them
at once in the oven, which should be much hotter than for bread, to
prevent the meal from settling. After the first eight or ten minutes
the heat may be reduced. Send to the table one basin at a time, on
a dinner-plate, with a folded napkin around it. This quantity is suffi-
cient for two basins, nine inches across and two inches deep. Allow
from half to three quarters of an hour for baking.
PONE WITH PJCE.
One gill of rice boiled in
Three gills of water until the water is absorbed.
BREAD. 321
One pint and one gill of corn-meal.
One pint of milk.
Half a gill of melted lard.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Three eggs.
Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the milk, then stir in the meal, rice,
lard, and salt; whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them
lightly in the batter; pour in patty-pans, and bake twenty minutes, or
bake in a deep dish if preferred.
PONE. (Made With Sour Milk.)
One pint of thick, sour milk.
One pint of corn-meal.
One tablespoonful of flour.
One and a third teaspoonfuls of soda.
Two thirds of a teaspoonful of salt.
Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter.
Three eggs, the whites beaten separately.
Put the meal, milk, butter, salt, and the yolks of the eggs in a large
bowl; through a fine sifter add the flour and soda; then beat all thor-
oughly together; whisk the whites to a stiff froth, beat them in lightly,
pour in a well-buttered, shallow pan, and bake in a quick oven. When
served, cut it in square pieces. A gill of dry boiled rice may be added
to this ; if the rice were left from dinner it may be rubbed with the dry
meal to separate the grains.
" NORTH WOODS " DOUGHBOYS.
H. Chester Wilson.
" With a quart or pint (according to the size of the party)iof corn-
meal mix sufficient boiling water to make a soft dough,, and' add a little
21
322 isr the kitchen.
salt (one even teaspoonful to a pint of meal) . We fry them in the fat
from the fried salt pork, or in the fresh meat-fat, which we carry into
the woods in cans; many times we fry them in the pan after cooking
our trout and venison, as when far in the woods we are not blessed
with many cooking utensils. Have the pan hot with plenty of fat;
drop in the dough by separate spoonfuls, and flatten to one half or five
eighths of an inch in thickness; keep them detached from the pan; fry
slowly until of a fine brown; tarn them and fry the other side. Many
eat them as they come from the pan, some with butter, some with
shaved maple-sugar, and some with both."
MUFFINS OF CORN-MEAL AND FLOUR.
' To half a pint of mush (page 326) add two ounces of butter, one
pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one and a half gills of sweet
milk, and half a gill of yeast; mould it into a ball, and leave it to rise
in a warm1 place for four or five hours; when light, roll it out very thin
and cut it with a large cutter or the cover of a small tin pail. The muf-
fins should be five inches across; let them rise twenty or thirty minutes,
some on the griddle and some on the board, then bake slowly on the
griddle like English muffins. "When baked, tear open, butter, pile reg-
ularly, and cut through the centre.
BREAD CAKES.
Pour one pint «f boiling milk on half a pound of bread crumbs,
two ounces of butter, and one teaspoonful of salt; cover, and let it stand
half an hour; beat it up well with four eggs and two ounces of flour,
and when light stir in gradually half a pint of cold milk. To be baked
like buckwheat cakes.
BREAD. 323
BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
One quart of buckwheat flour.
One gill of wheat flour.
One quart less one gill of warm water.
One gill of yeast.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Mix the better at night in order to have the cakes for breakfast;
if very light, an hour before they are i*equired stir the batter down and
let it rise again. Bake the cakes on a smooth, nicely-greased griddle,
and send them to the table the moment they are baked, piled regularly
in the centre of the plate, and every one " right side up with care "; for
although they may be well-baked on both sides, the lower side never has
that beautiful brown, lace-like appearance which makes a good buck-
wheat cake so attractive. If some of the batter is left from the baking it
will serve as yeast for the next making; put it away in a cold place, but
not where it will freeze; bring it out at night, add buckwheat, etc., and
leave it to rise. With a little care, no fresh yeast will be necessary
during the entire winter.
These cakes may be raised with baking-powder; but the batter
should be thinner than when mixed with yeast. A gill of oatmeal may
be used in addition to the wheat flour.
FLANNEL CAKES.
Two and a quarter pounds of flour.
Three ounces of butter.
One quart of new milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
324 IST THE KITCHEN.
One yeast-cake, soaked ten minutes in two tablespoonfuls of water.
Four eggs.
First put the yeast-cake to soak; cut the butter in small bits, put
it in the milk, and let them warm together until the butter is soft; sift
the flour in a large bowl, stir in about three quarters of the milk, the salt,
and the yeast, and the eggs, well-beaten; then add the rest of the milk,
and leave it to rise. If you want these cakes for breakfast they should
be mixed the previous evening.
RICE CAKES.
Three quarters of a pound of flour.
Two ounces of butter (melted).
One pint of milk.
Half a pint of boiled rice.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Two eggs.
Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the rice, salt, half of the milk, the
butter, and the flour; beat ah thoroughly together, stir in the rest of the
milk, whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add them to
the batter with a long, slow beat. Bake on the griddle.
HOMINY CAKES.
To half a pint of hominy (see page 221) add two eggs, three
ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, melted in half a pint of milk; the
whites of the eggs must be beaten separately, and stirred in lightly just
before baking. To be baked on the- griddle. Should the hominy be
cold and stiff, rub it through the colander.
BREAD.
325
VIRGINIA CORN CAKES.
One quart of corn-meal.
One quart and one and a half gills of sweet milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
One gill of melted butter.
Put the meal in a three-quart bowl with the salt and about half of
the milk; beat well, add the butter and the eggs, well beaten, then the
rest of the milk. Bake of uniform size on the griddle.
STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE.
Make a soda-biscuit crust with one quart of flour (page 300) ;
divide it in two equal parts; if it is to be served on a platter, roll the
crust the shape and size inside the rim; if a dinner-plate is to be used,
make the cakes round. Roll them half an inch thick, prick well, and
bake in a hot oven. Split the cakes, lay one half on the plate, crust
down; butter, and put over it a thick layer of strawberries and sugar;
then anothe*r half cake, butter, strawberries and sugar, and so on; the
last half may be a cover, the crust side up, or it may be turned and cov-
ered with fruit like the others. Leave it in the oven from five to ten
minutes, and serve smoking hot.
OATMEAL PORRIDGE.
KOBEUT COLLTEK, CHICAGO.
One pint of oatmeal.
One quart of boiling water.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Throw the salt in the water, then sift in the meal with the left
326 IN THE KITCHEN.
hand, beating rapidly with the right; let it boil but two or three minutes
and serve immediately. Mr. Collyer says, "Porridge is not mush,' mush
was never heard of either in England or Scotland. In Yorkshire, when
we speak of porridge, we say, They are hot or cold, or good or bad.
Porridge must be eaten, or as we used to say, supped, when they are
fresh made; you can no more keep them good if you let them stand
round to wait your leisure than you can keep champagne good in a
platter. The true way to eat your porridge is to tumble in your milk
while they are in the kettle, and stir it well in, then pour your porridge
into basins, and eat 'em up; but if you want to set 'em on the table in
one dish, as the heathen do here, leave them a little short of meal when
you make them, because they will harden up dreadfully." So we, " the
heathen," will heathenize Mr. Collyer's receipt by doubling the measure
of salt, adding a pint of boiling water to the quart, pouring in the pint
of meal from the measure, and stirring hard with a wooden spoon, as the
thibel, the fork-like paddle used in Scotland, has not yet reached us;
then we will boil the porridge moderately for ten minutes, and serve a
dish fit for royalty the world over, Scotch lairds included.
MUSH, OR HASTY PUDDING.
One quart of water.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Half a pint of corn-meal.
Put the water and salt over the fire; when hot, not boiling, take
out half a pint and mix it with the corn-meal, and when the water
boils fast pour this in, and stir until it thickens; then let it boil slowly,
uncovered, for an hour. This is a good dish for lunch or a country
tea. It may be eaten hot with butter and syrup, or when partly cooled,
with milk or cream.
BREAD. 327
HASTY PUDDING FRIED.
The pudding for this purpose should be thicker than in the above
rule; add a gill of corn-meal to the pint. When boiled put it in a bak-
ing-dish and press it down evenly; in the morning cut it in slices a
third of an inch thick, dredge a little flour over both sides, and fry in
hot butter or lard, in a frying-pan. The softer mush may be made into
croquettes; flour the hands, make the mush into round, flattened balls
of uniform size; dip them in a beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs,
place them on the frying-basket, and plunge them in deep, hot lard. A
surface of corn-meal does not brown in this way.
CRACKED WHEAT.
Stir a gill and a. half of cracked wheat in a pint of boiling water;
stir well until thickened, then leave it to boil slowly, stirring occasion-
ally, for three quarters of an hour; add half a teaspoonful of salt a short
time before serving. This does not make a very thick mush; if pre-
ferred thicker, use half a pint of wheat to the pint of water.
GRAHAM MUSH.
One pint of boiling water.
One third of a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a pint of Graham flour.
Put the salt in the boiling water, pour in the flour, stir and beat
until it thickens ; let it boil ten minutes, or until thick as desired.
328 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS 329
330 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEEPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 331
332
FOB ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
CAKE. 333
C A. KE.
As it takes a long time to prepare fruit for cake, a jar of stoned raisins, and one of cur-
rants washed and dried, should always be in readiness.
English currants come to us in so much of their native soil, so much gravel and sand, that
one sighs for the cataract of Lodore with its waters, " showering and springing, eddying' and
whisking," to render them fit for use. The process is necessarily so long and troublesome that
it is better to wash several pounds at once, — a year's supply. Put them in a milk-pah with a
quantity of warm water; after rubbing them thoroughly pour off the water and put the cur-
rants into the colandur; rinse the pan, set the colander in it, and pour over the fruit as much
cold water as the pan will hold, then wash the currants well, and stir them about so the clean
water may run in as the dirty water runs out. If needful, take another water, and still another-
Persevere until the fruit does not change the color of the water; then let it drain iu the Colan-
der for half an hour. Spread a large cloth on the table, pour the currants in the centre, and
rub them wilh the sides and ends, absorbing as much of the water as possible; when the cloth
is quite damp, spread a dry one, and cover it thinly with the fruit. This work should be
done in a good light, that all foreign substances may be seen and removed. Through the whole
process keep a constant " lookout for breakers," — iooi/i-breakers. Wash the currants in the
afternoon, and leave them on the second cloth in a warm room to dry over night; in the morn-
ing put iu jars, aud cover closely.
Locke's " Raisin Stoner " saves the old tedious process of stoning raisins with a knife.
They must first be stemmed, then, one by one, put through this ingenious little machine; the
work is quickly and well done, and with, comparatively clean fingers. Thanks also to this
labor-saving age, we are no longer obliged to grate sugar or grind spices.
For beating eggs, use a large earthen bowl, and this kind of egg-beater, — a wooden handle
_with wire loops in the form of a spoon. Some prefer the kind that screws to the table and is
turned with a crank. I have been told by a lady who uses one that it is quite indispensable
to house-keeping; another lady of great experience assures me there is nothing to compare
with a piece of barrel-hoop, used on a platter; another says a spoon is beyond them all. Hav-
ing tried the four, I greaily prefer the first.
In preparing the ingredients for cake, weigh the sifted flour first, slide it in a piece of clean
brown paper, then weigh the sujjar, arrange the scales for the additional weight of butter, and
lay it carefully on the sugar; the butter can then be creamed in the cake-bowl, and the sugar
•334 IN THE KITCHEN".
added by degrees from the tin receiver, which then, being quite clean, need be only wiped,
whereas, had the butter touched it, it would require washing. It is also a good plan to have a
couple of paper bags near the scales marked " Flour," and " Sugar." Have them large enough
to hold two quarts each. It is easy to slide the flour and sugar into them from the end of the
tin receiver, and in every way they are better than plates or bowls.
To cream butter is to stir it with the hand or a spoon until it is of the consistency of thick
cream.
ORDER OF CAKE-MAKING.
First, attend to the oven, which must, for most cake, be of the heat required for baking
bread. See that the fire is in condition to ensure a steady hea-t for three fourths of an hour
from the time the cake goes in, neither increasing nor decreasing. It is bad to add coal while
cake is in the oven, and it is equally bad to open oven-doors for cooling. Then prepare the
baking-pans. These must be thinly buttered, and the lower part covered with paper;
many butter the paper also, but it is not necessary. Collect all the ingredients, measured or
weighed, as the receipt requires. Should the butter be quite salt it must be washed in cold
water; press out the water and cream the butter, when the sugar may be gradually added and
thoroughly beaten in.' Beat the yolks of the eggs until they are thick and smooth, and add
them, beating well, to the butter and sugar; add t'.ie spice, then beat the whites of the eggs to
so stiff a froth that they will adhere to the bowl when it is turned upside down. If the receipt
require milk it should now be stirred in alternately with the whites of the eggs and the flour,
leaving a little of the flour to go in last; if no milk is used, add the whites of the eggs and then
the flour, after which it should be stirred as little as possible. Fill the pans but little more than
half their depth, and if possible do not move them while the cake is baking.
Icing can be made while the cake, if in ordinary loaves, is in the oven. If the icing be for
jelly-cake, which bakes in a few moments, it should be ready when the cake goes into the
oven. The whites of three eggs will make sufficient icing for two loaves of cake.
The batter of some kinds of cake will keep a week in a cold place, — '■ drop-cake," for
instance. It is not always convenient to bake the quantity made, nor does the cake keep fresh
for many days. You want a loaf of it, say two successive Sundays; mix the rule, bake your
loaf or two (the rule makes three loaves), and put the rest of the batter in the refrigerator or
cellar. The next Sunday it is ready for the oven, saving the labor of a second making.
Icing will keep for weeks, closely covered, in a cool place. If too stiff from partial drying,
add a little water.
The whites of eggs will keep for several days. The white of a common-sized egg weighs
one ounce. It is very convenient to know this, as you sometimes want to take the while of
one or more eggs from seven or eight that have been put away together, and by weighing you
can be sure of the number.
CAKE. 335
BREAD CAKE.
One pound of dough ready for the oven.
Eight ounces of sugar.
Four ounces of butter.
One gill of currants.
Half a nutmeg.
The grated rind of a lemon and half of the juice.
Half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling
water.
One well-beaten egg.
Having softened the butter, mix all the ingredients thoroughly
together with the hand; put the batter in two small, well-buttered
pans, leave it in a warm place several hours to rise, and when light, bake.
KAFFEE KUCHEN.
One pound of risen dough, ready for the oven.
Four ounces of sugar.
Three ounces of butter. ,
One egg.
Cream the butter and beat it well with the sugar and the egg',
add the dough and mix thoroughly with the hand; leave it in a warm
place to rise; when light pour it in a' small dripping-pan (when baked
it should not be more than two thirds of an inch thick), and let it stand
ten or fifteen minutes, pat it in the oven, and while it is baking prepare
the icing. Blanch (see page 372) two dozen almonds and shred them;
add to the beaten whites of two eggs about half the usual quantity of
sugar, stir in the almonds, and when the cake is baked cover it with the
icing and leave it to dry in the mouth of the oven. The almonds may
336 IN THE KITCHEN.
brown a little, if liked. This cake is made to perfection in Berlin, where
it is eaten with coffee at four o'clock in the afternoon. When served,
it is cut in oblong pieces.
ELECTION CAEE.
Mrs. Peet.
Six pounds and a half of flour.
Three and a quarter pounds of sugar.
Two and three quarter pounds of butter.
Two pounds of raisins.
Half a pound of citron.
Half a pint of yeast.
Two nutmegs.
One gill of wine or brandy.
Two quarts of milk (scalded and cooled).
Six eggs.
Mix the flour, yeast, and milk together at night; in the morning,
when the doiigh is well risen, add the butter and sugar beaten together
until perfectly smooth and light, the well-beaten eggs, and all the other
ingredients; work all thoroughly together with the hands, put it in
buttered pans, and leave it to rise from four to six hours. This quantity
makes nine loaves. Nearly half of the butter may be omitted for an
equal weight of sweet, firm lard.
DOUGHNUTS.
Eighteen ounces of flour.
Half a pint of sugar.
Half a pint of sour milk.
One teaspoonful of cinnamon.
Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter.
CAKE.
337
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling
water.
Half a teaspoonful of cloves.
One egg.
Beat the ,egg and stir it with the milk, sugar, and spice, add half
the flour, then the soda and the rest of the flour. Roll half an inch
thick, cut, and fry in deep lard.
MRS. BOYD'S DOUGHNUTS.
One pound and ten ounces of flour.
Five ounces of sugar.
Two and a half ounces of butter or drippings.
One nutmeg.
Two gills of hot water.
Two gills of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling
water.
Haifa yeast-cake, soaked in a tablespoonful of tepid water.
Mix these cakes, during the winter, as early as eight o'clock in the
evening; they will then be ready to fry before noon the next day. Melt
the butter or drippings in the water, add the salt, sugar, nutmeg, milk,
and all of the flour but two ounces. In the morning work the soda
thoroughly in, and use the remaining flour for the board and rolling-pin.
Roll out the dough half an inch thick, and cut the cakes in whatever
shape you like, and leave them on the board to rise; the dough may be
cut in long strips one and a half inches wide, and divided obliquely in
pieces four inches long; or it may be cut in rings with two tin cutters
of different size. The round pieces from the centre may be fried, and
22
338 IN THE KITCHEN".
when served rolled in sugar; cut part of the dough like small biscuit,
and when light flatten them, lay two or three raisins in the centre, draw
the edges closely together, and drop them in the hot lard. These are the
Dutch "ollykoeks." A little apple-butter or any kind of jam makes
them the German "pfannkuchen." Have the lard or drippings hot,
test it with a small bit of the dough; be careful that it is not so hot as
to brown the cakes before they are cooked; one of the four-inch' strips
requires about five minutes; attend carefully to turning them while
cooking, keeping the lightest side under. The surface of the fat may
be nearly covered with the cakes. When they are fried take them out
with a skimmer and lay them in the colander.
MRS. GEAHAM'S OLLYKOEKS.
Half a pound of butter.
Twelve ounces of sugar.
One pint of milk.
One pound of stoned raisins.
Flour enough to roll out (about three pounds).
Six eggs.
Cream the butter, beat in the sugar and the yolks of the eggs;
when light add part of the flour, and the whites of the eggs beaten to
a stiff froth, then the rest of the flour. Roll about half an inch thick,
cut in round cakes, put three .or four raisins rolled in cinnamon in the
centre of each cake; draw the cake up around them, pinch the edges
closely together, and fry in deep, hot lard.
GINGERBREAD.
Mrs. Jennison.
One quart lacking one gill of flour.
Half a pint of sugar.
CAKE. 039
Half a pint of molasses.
Half a pint of sweet milk.
One quarter of a pound of butter.
Two even tablespoonfuls of ginger.
Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in the milk.
Three egrofs.
Sift the flour and cream of tartar in a bowl, hollow the centre, and
put in the butter and sugar, well stirred together, the beaten eggs,
molasses, ginger and milk; mix; drop in buttered' patty-pans and bake
twenty minutes. It should be eaten while warm.
O'LEARY'S GINGERBREAD.
Three quarters of a pound of flour.
Seven ounces of butter.
Seven ounces of sugar.
One and a half gills of molasses.
One and a half gills of thick, sour milk. •
One tablespoonful of ginger.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling
water.
Three eggs.
Soften the butter and beat it with the sugar until light, stir in
gradually the molasses and ginger, then the milk and the well-beaten
eggs and half of the sifted flour, then the soda and the rest of the
flour.
This is very nice baked in round gem-pans, particularly if it is to
be eaten hot.
340 EST THE KITCHEN".
GOLDEN CAKE.
» The yolks of six eggs.
One pint of powdered sugar.
One gill of sweet milk.
One teaspoonful of vanilla.
One and a half pints of flour.
Half a teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Half a pint of stoned raisins.
Six ounces of butter.
Beat the butter and sugar together until very light, add the milk,
the well-beaten yolks, the vanilla, and the flour with which the baking-
powder has been sifted; rub a teaspoonful of flour in the raisins, stir
them in; put the cake in a small dripping-pan and bake. It should,
when baked, be about an inch and a half thick.
TROY CAKE.
One quart of flour.
Eight ounces of butter.
One pint of coffee sugar.
Half a pint of cold water.
Three teaspoonful s of cream yeast-powder sifted with the flour.
A small grated nutmeg.
Three eggs.
Pream the butter, add the sugar and yolks, the water and flour,
and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth. This quantity makes two
loaves.
PLAIN CAKE WITH CURRANTS.
One quart lacking one gill of self-raising flour.
One gill of sour milk.
CAKE. 341
One pint of sugar.
One lemon, rind and juice.
One nutmeg.
Eight ounces of butter.
Half a pint of currants.
Four eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
Cream the butter, add the yolks and sugar, and beat until very-
light; stir in the nutmeg, lemon, and milk, then the flour and eggs, alter-
nately, and after that, the currants. Bake in pans lined with paper.
WHITE CAKE.
Four ounces of butter.
Three gills of milk.
One and a half pints of flour.
One pint of sugar.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar.
Three quarters of a teaspoonful of soda.
Two eggs, the whites whisked to a stiff froth.
Bitter almonds to the taste.
Beat the butter and sugar together, add the yolks and beat until
very light, then stir in the milk in which the soda is dissolved, the flour
with which the cream of tartar is sifted, and the whites of the eggs,
alternately; add the bitter almonds, put in paper-lined pans, and bake.
PORK CAKE.
DELICIOUS; REQUIRING NEITHER EGGS NOR BUTTER.
One pound of salt pork, chopped very fine.
One pound of raisins.
One pound of currants.
342 IN THE KITCHEN".
Half a pound of citron.
One quart of flour.
One pint of brown sugar.
One pint of boiling water.
Half a pint of New Orleans molasses.
Two teaspoonfuls of nutmeg.
One teaspoonful of mace.
Two teaspoonfuls of cloves and two of cinnamon.
The grated rind of one lemon.
One tablespoonful of soda, dissolved in two teaspoonfuls of
boiling water.
Pour the water on the pork, stir until melted, then pass it through
the colander to avoid bits of fibre; add sugar, molasses, spice, and half
the flour; reserving a gill to rub with the fruit; then add the soda, the
rest of the flour, and the fruit. This makes three large loaves. Put
it in buttered pans lined with paper; the paper needs no butter. After
baking the cake three quarters of an hour, try it with a clean broom-
straw; if done, the straw will be dry when drawn out.
COFFEE CAKE. (No Eggs.)
Two and a half pounds of flour.
Nine ounces of brown sugar.
Fourteen ounces of butter.
One pint of molasses.
One pint of strong coffee.
Two and a half pounds of stoned raisins cut in two.
One pound of citron.
Two teaspoonfuls of mace, two of cinnamon, and two of nutmeg.
One teaspoonful of cloves and one of allspice.
CAKE. 343
Two teaspoonfnls of soda, dissolved in a little of the coffee.
Rub the sugar and butter together, add molasses, coffee, and flour
alternately, leaving a pint of flour in which to rub the fruit, then the
soda, and lastly the fruit.
DRIED APPLE CAKE.
Half a pound of butter.
One and a half pints of sour, dried apples.
One and a half pints of molasses.
Half a pint of raisins.
Fourteen ounces of flour.
One tablespoonfnl of soda.
One tablespoonfnl of cinnamon.
One tablcspoonful of mace.
One tablespoonful of cloves.
One egg.
Cover the apples with cold water, and soak them over night; pour
off any water that may remain, chop, and stew them twenty minutes
with the spices in the molasses. When cold add the creamed butter
and egg, the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling water, the
flour, and raisins. Bake in a moderate oven.
HARRISON CAKE.
Miss K. H. B.
Bight ounces of butter.
One and a half pints of brown sugar.
Two and a half pints of flour.
■ Half a pint of molasses.
Half a pint of sweet milk.
Half a teaspoonful of baking-powder.
344 IN THE KITCHEN.
Four even tablespoonfuls of cinnamon.
One of mace.
One of cloves.
Two tablespoonfuls of allspice.
Two pounds of stoned raisins. *
Half a pound of currants.
Half a pound of citron, sliced.
Four eggs.
Cream the butter, add sugar, molasses, the yolks of the eggs, and
spices; beat well, then add the milk and whites of the eggs, beaten to
a stiff froth, alternately with the flour which has been sifted with the
baking-powder; lastly, the fruit. Bake in loaves.
AURORA CAKE.
Miss K. H. Bogakt.
Eleven ounces of butter.
One and a half pints of sugar.
Two and a half pints of flour.
Half a pint of milk.
One gill of wine and brandy.
One and a half pounds of stoned raisins.
Quarter of a teaspoonful of baking-powder sifted with the flour.
Five eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar and yolks, and beat until very
light; stir in the milk, add alternately the whites, beaten to a dry froth,
and the flour, then the wine, and lastly the fruit; bake in deep pans,
buttered, and lined with paper.
CAKE. 345
PORTUGAL CAKE.
One pound of powdered sugar.
One pound of sifted flour.
Half a pound of butter.
One pound of fruit (raisins and citron).
One and a half pounds of almonds, weighed before shelling.
Two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice or wine.
Eight eggs.
Beat the butter and sugar together until smooth and very light;
add the yolks, and beat again until well mixed and light; beat the
whites to a stiff froth and add them alternately with the flour, of which
a gill may be reserved to rub with the fruit; stir in the fruit and almonds,
and bake in paper-lined pans. The raisins must be stoned, and the.
almonds blanched and cut in shreds.
DEOP CAKE.
One pound of flour, lacking three even tablespoonfuls.
One pound of sugar.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
Quarter of a pound of currants.
Two gills of sweet milk.
Two thirds of a teaspoonful of soda and two teaspoonfuls of cream
of tartar, or one and a half tablespoonfuls of baking-powder.
Five eggs.
Sift the soda and cream of tartar through a fine wire cloth sifter,
and mix thoroughly with the flour; cream the butter, and add the
sugar with enough of the milk to make them mix easily; add the yolks
of the eggs, and beat well, then add alternately the milk, the beaten
34G IN" THE KITCHEN.
whites of the eggs and the flour; butter a dripping-pan, drop the batter
in separate spoonfuls, sprinkle a few currants over every one, and bake
a rich brown. The eakes run together, but must be broken apart when
taken from the oven. Cool them on a sieve.
The batter for this cake will keep a week in a cold place.
REBECCA'S TRIUMPH.
Half a pound of butter.
One and a quarter pounds of sugar.
Eighteen ounces of flour.
One pound of blanched almonds cut in strips.
One pound of raisins, stoned.
Half a pint of milk.
One and a half tablespoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with the flour.
Six eggs.
Cream the butter, and add the sugar gradually with a little of the
milk to make them mix; beat the whites and yolks together until
light, then stir them in the butter and sugar, add the rest of the milk
and the flour, then the almonds and raisins. Bake in loaves.
SPICE CARE.
One pound of flour.
One pound of sugar.
Three fourths of a pound of butter.
Two pounds of fruit (raisins and citron).
Half a pint of sour cream (not very rich).
One and a third tablespoonfuls of ground cloves.
One and a third tablespoonfuls of cinnamon.
One teaspoonful of soda.
CAKE. 347
Five eggs, the whites beaten separately.
Cream the butter, add the sugar, yolks, and spice, and beat until
very light; add the cream (having dissolved the soda in a teaspoonful
of it and then mixed it with the whole), the whites of the eggs, and
the flour; lastly the fruit, the raisins stoned and the citron cut as liked.
Bake in paper-lined pans.
CLAY CAKE.
One pound of flour.
One pound of sugar.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pint of sour cream.
One teaspoonful of soda.
The rind and juice of one lemon.
Six eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar and yolks of the eggs gradually,
and beat until very light; stir in the grated rind of the lemon; add the
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth; rub the soda perfectly smooth,
mix it in a tablespoonful of the cream, and stir this in the rest of the
half pint; then add the cream and flour alternately, and the lemon-
juice before the last handful of flour.
QUEEN'S CAKE.
One pound of flour.
One pound of sugar.
Three quarters of a pound of butter.
One gill of sweet milk.
Half a gill of wine.
One teaspoonful of cream pf tartar.
348 IX THE KITCHEN.
Half a teaspoonful of soda.
One nutmeg.
Eight eggs.
Sift the cream of tartar with the flour, cream the butter, add the
sugar, and beat until light; add the yolks of the eggs, beating hard,
then the whites beaten to a stiff froth, then the flour and the milk alter-
nately; when about half of the flour is mixed in add the soda, dis-
solved in a teaspoonful of boiling water. Bake from thirty to forty
minutes.
It may be baked in a dripping-pan, and iced on the under side.
Divide the icing before it hardens, into regular oblong forms with a cord.
This quantity is sufficient for a dripping-pan twelve inches long and
ten inches wide, and a cake-pan of ordinary size.
ALMOND CAKE.
One pound and two ounces of flour.
Three quarters of a pound of sugar.
Quarter of a pound of sweet almonds.
One ounce of bitter almonds.
Eight ounces of butter.
Two gills of sweet milk.
Half a gill of wine.
One teaspoonful of soda.
Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar.
The whites of eight eggs.
Blanch the almonds, cut the sweet almonds in thin shreds, and
pound the others to a smooth paste; cream the butter, add the bitter
almonds and sugar, the milk, in which the soda is dissolved, the flour
with which the cream of tartar has been sifted, and the whites of the eggs
CAKE. 349
beaten to a stiff froth; then the wine and almonds. Bake in loaves in
a moderate oven.
ALMOND POUND CAKE.
To one pound of pound cake put three quarters of a pound of
sweet almonds blanched and cut fine, and two ounces of bitter almonds
pounded and mixed with a little rose-water.
LEMON CAKE.
One pound of flour.
One pound of sugar.
Twelve ounces of butter.
Eight eggs.
The grated rind of two lemons and the juice of one.
Cream the butter, beat the yolks until very light, add the sugar
gradually, the butter, and rind of the lemon; beat thoroughly; add the
flour and the whites beaten to a stiff froth, alternately, then the juice of
the lemon. Bake in buttered pans lined with paper.
VALLEY CAKE.
One pound of sugar.
Thirteen ounces of flour.
Twelve ounces of butter, creamed.
Eight eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.
One teaspoonful of mace.
Half a gill of wine.
Beat the yolks of the eggs until very light; add the sugar gradu-
ally, the mace, and the butter; beat thoroughly together, add the wine,
and then the flour and whites of the eggs alternately; put it in but-
tered pans lined with paper, and bake about three quarters of an hour.
350 IN THE KITCHEN.
POUND CAKE.
Mrs. Montgomery.
Seven ounces of flour.
Eight ounces of sugar.
Six ounces of butter.
Half a teaspoonful of mace.
The rind and juice of half a lemon.
Four eggs.
Cream the butter and stir in the flour; beat the yolks and sugar
together until very light, then mix them with the flour and butter, add
the whites beaten" to a stiff froth, the lemon and mace. Bake in paper-
lined pans.
POUND CAKE.
Mrs. , Hagerstown, Md.
Twelve small or ten large eggs.
One pound of butter.
One pound of fine sugar.
One pound of flour, less one tablespoonful.
Cream the butter thoroughly and beat in the sugar; add the whites
of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and then the well-beaten yolks; put
in the sifted flour carefully, stirring only enough to mix well. Bake in
pans lined with paper, and do not move it after putting it in the oven,
unless absolutely necessary. Pound cake does not require flavoring.
LITTLE POUND CAKES, WITH PRESERVED LEMON-PEEL.
Three eggs.
Their weight in sugar, in flour, and in butter.
CAKE. 351
Half of a lemon.
One ounce of preserved lemon-peel.
Cream the butter thoroughly and beat in the sugar (this may be
done with the hand) ; add the yolks of the eggs, and beat until the
whole is very light; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and add
them alternately with the flour, then put in the juice and grated rind
of the half lemon, and the lemon-peel cut very small ; beat hard for sev-
eral minutes, then drop in buttered patty-pans and bake fifteen or
twenty minutes. Ice the cakes on the under side immediately on com-
ing from the oven. As they are higher in the centre than on the edge,
arrange them in this way to keep them straight for the icing : Lay
thin strips of wood half an inch wide across a sieve, just near enough
for the edges of the cakes to rest on them while the centre is in the
space below. Let them remain until the icing is hard.
EDGEWOOD BIRTHDAY CAKE.
One and a half pounds of flour.
One pound of butter.
One pound of sugar.
One pound of currants.
One pound of citron.
One pound of raisins.
Half a pint of milk.
One teaspoonful of cloves.
One teaspoonful of cinnamon.
One teaspoonful of mace, and any other spice that is liked.
One teaspoonful of soda.
Eight eggs.
3<">2 rsr the kitchen.
Cream the butter, add the sugar, with a little of the milk to mate
them mix easily, then the yolks of the eggs, the spice, and the rest of
the milk. Reserve half a pint of the flour in which to rub the fruit; sift
the soda through a bit of tarletan or a wire-cloth sifter into the rest of
the flour, and add it to the batter alternately with the whites of the
eggs beaten to a dry froth; stir in the fruit, put the cake in a large,
deep pan lined with paper, and bake from two to three hours in a slow
oven. Frost and decorate.
FRUIT CAKE.
One and a half pounds of flour.
One and a half pounds of butter.
One and a half pounds of sugar.
Two pounds of blanched and shred almonds.
Two pounds of raisins, stoned.
Two pounds of citron sliced.
One gill of brandy.
Half a teaspoonful of soda.
One nutmeg.
The juice and grated rind of two lemons.
Fifteen eggs.
Cream the butter, beat the yolks of the eggs until light, and grad-
ually stir in the sugar, nutmeg, grated lemon, and butter; beat the
whites to a stiff froth and add them alternately with the sifted flour,
of which there must be a gill reserved for the fruit. Dissolve the
soda in a teaspoonful of boiling water, beat it thoroughly in, add the
brandy, lemon-juice, and fruit. Bake an hour and a half in a moderate
oven.
CAKE.
353
MONTGOMERY WEDDING CAKE.
One pound of flour.
One pound of brown sugar.
One pound and two ounces of butter.
One pound of citron.
Six pounds of stoned raisins.
Five pounds of currants.
Half a pound of lemon citron.
Half a pound of orange citron.
One ounce and a, quarter of cinnamon.
One ounce of mace.
Three fourths of an ounce of cloves.
Two gills of brandy.
Two gills of molasses.
Twelve eggs.
A small pinch of salt.
Cream the butter, beat the yolks of the eggs very light, and grad-
ually stir in the sugar, spices, molasses, and butter, and beat thor-
oughly; whisk the whites to a stiff froth and add them alternately
with the sifted flour; add the brandy and fruit, and bake an hour and a
half in a moderate oven. The lemon and orange citron must be cut in
very fine shreds; the other citron may be sliced thin.
CHOCOLATE CAKE.
Miss Baker.
One pound of flour.
One pound and two ounces of sugar.
Eight ounces of butter.
23
354 IN" THE KITCHEN".
Half a pint of sour milk or buttermilk.
The juice and grated rind of one lemon.
One teaspoonful of cream of tartar.
One teaspoonful of soda.
Five eggs.
Soften and cream the butter, add the sugar, rind of the lemon, yolks
of the eggs, and a little of the sour milk; beat until very light, then
add the rest of the milk; sift the cream of tartar and soda through a bit
of tarletan, in the flour, mix well, and add to the batter alternately with
the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth; lastly the lemon-juise.
Bake in jelly-cake pans; take three cakes for a loaf, and between the
cakes and over the whole loaf spread "Philadelphia Chocolate Icing."
(See page 372.)
This delicious cake is equally good with the thick custard used
for cream-cakes between the layers, and the chocolate icing outside the
loaf.
CHOCOLATE CAKE.
Hampton.
One pint of fine sugar.
One and a half pints of flour.
Half a pint of milk.
Four ounces of butter.
Four even teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with the flour.
Three eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar and yolks, then the milk, and the
whites of the eggs beaten stiff, alternately with the flour. Bake like
"Orange Cake," with the "Philadelphia Chocolate Icing " between the
cakes and over the entire loaf.
CAKE. 355
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS.
Make a batter as for "Cream Cakes" (page 361), form it with the
spoon, as it is dropped into the dripping-pan, in cakes four inches long
and one and a half inches wide; leave a little space between them. "When
baked and cold, make an opening in one side and put in the cream,
which must also be cold. Make it in this way: break, dissolve, and
mix smoothly one ounce of chocolate with three tablespoonfnls of
boiling water in a pint-basin fitted over a saucepan of boiling water;
add gradually half a pint of milk, and leave it to scald; beat one egg,
add to it one gill of sugar and two even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch,
mix well, and stir in the scalding milk; then put the whole in the basin
over the boiling water, and stir until much thicker than boiled custard;
add a very small pinch of salt — about as much as half a pea — and half
a teaspoonful of vanilla; when the cakes are filled cover the top and
sides with this preparation of chocolate : dissolve two ounces of the best
sweetened chocolate, over a very slow fire, in two teaspoonfuls of boil-
ing water; add two tablespoonfnls of sugar; mix well, and if the sur-
face looks rough add half a teaspoonful of water; put enough on the
top of each eclair to cover it, directing it with a knife as it runs over
the cake.
MOUNTAIN CAKE.
Four ounces of butter.
One gill of corn-starch.
One gill of sweet milk.
Three gills of fine sugar.
Three gills of flour.
One teaspoonful of cream of tartar, sifted with the flour.
Half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in the milk.
3,5 G IN THE KITCHEN.
One teaspoonful of vanilla.
The whites of five eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar, milk, and corn-starch, and the
whites, beaten stiff, alternately with the flour; lastly the vanilla. To
be baked like " Orange Cake."
Put the "Philadelphia Chocolate Icing" between the cakes and over
the entire loaf; or use thick custard (see " Cream Cakes ") between the
cakes and a white or chocolate icing over the loaf.
ORANGE CAKE.
Make "Drop-Cake "; see that the oven will be very hot in fifteen min-
utes; make this icing which separates the cakes and covers the entire
loaf; to the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, add one pound
and a quarter of powdered sugar, and the grated rind, the soft pulp,
and the juice, and two large sour oranges and one lemon (there should
be a gill of the juice). This is the proper thickness to spread over each
cake, but for covering the loaf sugar must be added to make it as thick
as ordinary icing.
Having prepared the cake and icing and ensured a hot oven, spread
three well-buttered jelly-cake tins one fourth of an inch thick with the
batter and put them in the oven; watch them closely; they should bake
in a few minutes. Have three nine-inch squares of brown paper on the
table, and as the cakes bake turn them upside down on the papers;
wash the pans (wiping is sufficient if it leave them smooth), butter,
refill, and return to the oven; spread them with icing; when the second
trio is ready turn the cakes upside down on the first, and proceed as
before; the third trio completes the loaves. Both the top and sides
must be iced; the edges may be first trimmed with a very sharp knife;
when the icing is stiffened, which will be in fifteen minutes or less,
CAKE. 357
remove the cakes one by one, in this way: Turn one of the cake-pans
upside down, hold it against the table in line with the top, draw the
cake on it, and put it away; this prevents cracking the icing.
JELLY-CAKE.
Use " Drop-Cake " ; bake as in the above rule ; put jelly between
the cakes and plain icing over the loaf.
DOMINOES.
Make Mrs. Jennison's " Sponge Cake," and bake it in long pie-tins;
two such tins will make twelve dominoes, and if no more are required
the rest of the batter may be baked in a loaf; the batter in the pie-tins
should not be more than a third of an inch deep; spread it evenly, and
bake in a quick oven. Have a brown paper nearly twice the size of the
cake on the table, and the moment one of the cakes comes from the
oven turn it upside down in the centre of the paper, spread it with a
thin layer of currant jelly, and lay the other cake on it upside down;
cut it with a sharp knife lengthwise, directly through the centre, then
divide it across in six equal parts, push them with the knife about an
inch apart, and ice them with ordinary white icing, putting a large dessert-
spoonful on every piece; the heat of the cake will soften it, and with a
little help the edges and sides will be smoothly covered. All of the
icing that runs on the paper may be carefully taken up and used again.
It must then dry, which it will do very quickly. Make a horn of stiff
white paper about five inches long, one and a half inches across the
top, and one eighth of an inch at the other end; put in it a dessert-
spoonful of dark chocolate icing, close the horn at the top, and pressing
out the icing from the small opening, draw a line of it across the centre
353 IN THE KITCHEN.
of every cake, and make spots like those on ivory dominoes ; keep the
horn supplied with icing.
GENEVA KISSES.
Beat the whites of four eggs until perfectly stiff, then stir in very
gently nine ounces of granulated sugar. Have ready a board about an
inch thick, and about the size of a dripping-pan ; cover the top with
paper; tlvm, with a tablespoon, put on the board portions of the white
of egg and sugar, the shape you desire ; place them in a slightly-heated
oven, and when a light brown cover them with paper. They require
to be in the oven an hour, or until they are quite hanl to the touch;
then take them off with a knife, putting them together in pairs.
MACAROONS.
The whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, add half a pound
of powdered sugar, half a pound of dessicated cocoanut, half a pint
of rolled and sifted crackers, and an even teaspoonful of extract of bit-
ter almond; drop them upon a greased paper in a dripping-pan, and
bake a light-brown.
SPONGE CAKE.
Maryland.
Twelve eggs.
Their weight in sugar.
Half their weight in flour.
Two lemons.
Beat the yolks until very light, add the sugar gradually, and the
grated rind of the lemons, then beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir
them in very lightly, alternately with the flour, which should be sifted
in; add the lemon-juice, and bake immediately in a quick oven.
CAKE. 359
This batter makes a delicious jelly-cake; bake it very thin in a
dripping-pan, spread with jelly, and roll.
SPONGE CAKE.
Mrs. Bogakt.
Fifteen eggs.
Ten ounces of flour.
One and a half pounds of sugar.
The rind and juice of one lemon.
Throw tho yolks on the sugar and beat uutil very light; beat the
whites to a dry froth; add the flour to the yolks and sugar, also the
lemon, and then stir the whites lightly in the batter. Bake from twenty
to thirty minutes in pans lined with paper.
WHITE SPONGE CAKE.
Shelter Valley.
Half a pint of flour.
Three gills of sugar.
One teaspoonful of cream of tartar, sifted with the flour.
The whites of ten eggs, beaten stiff.
Stir the sugar gently in the whites of the eggs, add the flour, stir-
ring as little as possible, flavor with bitter almond, and bake in one loaf.
PHILADELPHIA SPONGE CAKE.
Three quarters of a pound of sugar, in a small bowl.
Half a pound of flour.
One gill of boiling water.
360
IN THE KITCHEN.
Rind and juice of half a lemon.
Six eggs.
"When the ingredients are weighed and the baking-pans ready,
pour the water on the sugar, stir it, cover, and let it stand on the
table until the eggs are beaten ; grate the lemon-rind into the yolks of
the eggs, then beat the whites to a stiff froth, and let them stand while
with the same beater you give a few moments to the yolks, making
them light and thick; pour them into the whites, and beat until well
mixed, then pour in the syrup (the sugar and water) and beat ten min-
utes, or until thick. Sift in the flour, mixing very gently with a knife;
add the lemon-juice, pour in the pans, and bake from twenty to thirty
minutes.
The syrup is sometimes left on the range, and when boiling
is poured into the eggs, which are then beaten until cold. The eggs
"thicken more quickly in this way, and the cake is excellent, but perhaps
not quite as moist as that made with cool syrup. This cake has the
advantage of keeping much longer than ordinary sponge cake, which
is comparatively dry.
Mas. JENNISON'S SPONGE CAKE.
One lemon.
Three gills of flour.
One pint of sugar.
Eight eggs.
Beat the yolks of the eggs thoroughly, add the sugar little by lit-
tle, and the grated rind of the lemon; beat the whites of the eggs to a
stiff froth, and add them alternately with the flour, beating very gently,
and barely long enough to mix well. When part of the flour is in add
the lemon-juice. Bake twenty minutes, in small loaves.
CAKE. 361
DAISY'S SPONGE CAKE.
Three eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
Half a pint of sugar.
Half a pint of flour.
Two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk.
One teaspoonful of baking-powder.
The rind and juice of one lemon.
Beat the yolks with the sugar and the rind of the lemon ; add al-
ternately the whites, the flour with which the baking-powder has been
sifted, and the milk, mixing gently; add the lemon-juice. Bake in one
loaf, or in patty-pans.
CREAM CAKES.
The Ckust. — Put half a pint of water with two ounces of but-
ter on the fire; as soon as it boils stir in four ounces of flour, and con-
tinue stirring until the mixture leaves the side of the saucepan; then
take it from the fire, and beat in, one by one, four eggs. Drop it by
spoonfuls on a buttered dripping-pan, leaving space between to prevent
touching, and bake in a quick oven.
The Cream. — Half a pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs, one
and a half ounces of sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla, One and a half
even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch. Put the milk over boiling water,
having reserved three tablespoonfuls in which to mix the starch. When
the milk is hot pour in the starch, and stir until thicker than boiled cus-
tard; then add the eggs, sugar, and vanilla beaten together, and con-
tinue stirring until so thick that when cold it will drop, not pour from
the spoon. When both are cold, tear a small opening in the side of
the cakes, and drop in two or three tablespoonfuls of the cream.
362
IN THE KITCHEN.
COCOANUT CAKE.
One pint of sugar.
One pint of flour.
Half a pound of butter.
Two tablespoonfuls of thin, sweet cream. #
One grated cocoanut.
The whites of ten eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Cream the butter, and stir in gradually the sugar and cream; add
the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and the sifted flour;
lastly the cocoanut. Bake in a moderate oven. This quantitv makes
but one loaf. It is a kind of cake that may be kept a long time.
COCOANUT CAKE, NO. 2.
Four ounces of butter.
One pint of fine sugar.
One pint and a half of flour.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in half a pint of sweet milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar sifted with the flour.
Four eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
One good-sized cocoanut, grated.
Cream the butter and beat it thoroughly with the sugar and yolks
of the eggs; add the whites alternately with the flour and milk; stir in
the cocoanut, and bake in pans lined with paper.
MRS. WELLS' CAKE.
Eight ounces (half a pound) of butter.
One pint and three gills (fourteen ounces) of flour.
One pint of sugar.
CAKE. 363
One teaspoonful of cream of tartar, sifted with the flour.
Half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in half a pint of sweet milk.
Half a gill of brandy.
Half a pound of currants.
Three quarters of a pound of citron cut in strips.
Three quarters of a pound of raisins, stoned.
Four eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff" froth.
Beat the sugar and butter together until very light, then beat in
the yolks thoroughly, and add alternately the milk, the whites, and the
flour; stir in the brandy and fruit. Bake in pans lined with paper.
COCOANUT WAFERS.
Half a pint of powdered sugar.
Half a pint of desiccated cocoanut.
Three even tablespoonfuls of flour.
Half a teaspoonful of vanilla.
Two eggs.
Beat the eggs and add the flour, sugar, vanilla, and cocoanut.
Bake on buttered paper.
COCOANUT DROPS.
One pound of grated cocoanut dried in the oven, or the same
weight of desiccated cocoanut, and one pound of fine sugar; the
whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Add the sugar to the eggs,
then the cocoanut, and bake on buttered paper.
WALNUT WAFERS.
Half a pint of brown sugar.
Half a pint of walnuts taken from the shells.
Three even, tablespoonfuls of flour.
3 )4 IS" THE KITCHEN.
One third of a teaspoonful of salt.
Two eggs.
Beat the eggs, add the sugar, salt, and flour, then the walnuts.
Drop the mixture in small portions on buttered paper, and bake until
brown.
MONT ALTO JUMBLES.
One pound of butter.
One pound of sugar.
One pound and a quarter of flour.
Grated lemon-peel and wine to season.
The whites of four eggs, beaten stiff.
Rub the butter and sugar together, beating them very light; add
the lemon, wine, the eggs, and flour. The hands must be floured for
moulding the jumbles; make a roll about the size of the little finger,
and five inches long; lap the ends, and lay in a slightly buttered pan,
giving plenty of room, as the jumbles spread very much in baking
* SUSAN'S JUMBLES.
One pint of sugar.
Half a pound of butter.
One quart and one gill of flour.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in one and a half gills of sweet
milk.
One nutmeg.
Two teaspf»onfuls of cream of tartar, sifted with the flour.
Four eggs.
Stir the butter and sugar together until very light, and beat in the
eggs, one by one; add the milk, nutmeg, and flour; roll, and bake as in
above rule.
CAKE. 365
_ n COASTING COOKIES.
One pound of flour.
Eight ounces of butter.
Half a pint of molasses.
One tablespoonful of soda, beaten very hard in the molasses.
One tablespoonful of coriander seed, and one of carraway, pounded
in a mortar.
Ginger to taste.
Soften the butter, stir in the molasses, ginger, seeds, and flour;
roll thin, cut, and bake in a quick oven.
CRISP COOKIES. (No Soda.)
One pound of sugar.
One pound of flour.
Half a pound of butter.
Two thirds of a nutmeg, or any other spice.
Five eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar and yolks of the eggs; beat until
light; then stir in the stiff beaten whites, the nutmeg, and flour. Flour
the board, roll, cut, and bake in a quick oven.
VERY RICH COOKIES.
Half a pound of butter.
One pint and a half of sifted flour.
One pint of light-brown sugar.
One gill of thick, sour cream.
Two teaspoonfuls of carraway seed.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling
water. t y,u. ,.
366 IN THE KITCHEN.
One egg.
Soften the bntter, stir in the sngar, cream, egg, soda, carraway
seeds, and flour; roll, cut, lay in a dripping-pan, and bake in a quick
oven.
These may be made plainer by using thick, sour milk instead of
cream. Less flour might be used in that case; they should be soft as
possible.
GINGER SNAPS.
One pound and six ounces of flour.
Four ounces of sugar.
Eight ounces of butter. '
Six ounces preserved orange-peel.
Half a pint of molasses.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling
water.
One teaspoonful of cloves.
Two teaspoonftils of ginger.
Soften the butter, and mix it with the sugar and molasses, add the
spices, the orange-peel, and soda, beat it well, and stir in the flour.
Flour the board, and roll the paste as thin as possible; cut in circles,
and bake in a very quick oven. This quantity makes ten dozen and
nine snaps, about three inches across.
OAK HILL GINGER SNAPS.
One and a quarter pounds of butter.
Three pounds of flour.
One pound of sugar.
One pint of molasses.
Three quarters of a gill or half a small teacupfu'l of ginger.
CAKE. 367
Three quarters of a gill or half a email teacupful of cinnamon and
cloves together.
One egg.
Mix the spices with the flour, slightly warm the molasses, add the
sugar and egg, and the butter and flour rubbed together. Roll as thin
as paper, and bake in a quick oven. These keep a long time if closely
covered.
NAMLAT GINGER SNAPS.
Three pounds of flour.
One pound of butter.
One pound of sugar.
One pint of molasses.
One gill of milk.
Three quarters of a gill of ginger.
One tablespoonful of cloves.
One teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little boiling water.
Three eggs.
Work all together thoroughly, and roll out very thin. Bake
quickly.
LITTLE HARD GINGERBREAD.
" Aunt Betsey."
Molasses, one quart.
Sugar, one pound.
Butter, one pound.
Soda, one tablespoonful, slightly rounded, dissolved in one gill of
milk.
Ginger, two tableapoonfuls.
368 IN THE KITCHEN-.
Roll the sugar, warm the butter and molasses, put all the ingre-
dients together, mix stiff with flour, work and pound until your elbows
ache, roll it a quarter of an inch in thickness and cut with a jagging
iron into oblong cakes; bake in a quick oven, being careful that they
do not burn.
TOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 369
i
370 FOE ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
ICING. 371
ICING.
[ Time for Making, Three Minutes."]
One pound of sugar.
The whites of three eggs.
Beat the whites until frothy only, not white; add the sugar grad-
ually with one hand, while you beat with the other. Flavor with a
little lemon-juice or vanilla. It is a great mistake to beat the whites of
the eggs until stiff before putting in the sugar, as it makes the icing
very hard to dry.
TO IMPROVE SPONGE CAKE.
Grate fresh orange-peel over the loaf before icing.
KENTUCKY ICING.
One pound of powdered sugar.
One gill of hot water.
The whites of three eggs.
Boil the sugar and water six minutes, or until, as it drops from the
spoon, it inclines to thread or rope. While the sugar boils beat the
whites to a stiff froth, and with the left hand pour in the boiling syrup
in a little stream while you beat hard with the right hand; continue
beating until the icing is thick enough to spread over the cake with a
knife.
CHOCOLATE ICING.
Two ounces of grated chocolate.
Seven ounces of powdered sugar.
The whites of two eggs.
372 INT THE KITCHEN.
Beat the whites but very little (they must not become white), add
the chocolate, stir it in; then pour in the sugar gradually, beating, to
mix it well.
PHILADELPHIA CHOCOLATE ICING.
Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, add half a pint of
Maillard's or any sweet chocolate grated, and then half a pint of pulver-
ized sugar.
LEMON CREAM FOR CAKE.
One pint of powdered sugar.
The grated rind and juice of two lemons.
The stiff-beaten whites of three eggs.
Beat the sugar in the stiff whites, stir in the lemon, and cook it
for a short time to thicken; then put it away to cool, when it may be
spread between the cakes.
ORANGE-PEEL FOR GINGER SNAPS.
In the spring, when oranges are abundant, save the skins; they
may be used at once or when partially dried. Boil one pound until
perfectly tender, chop it fine; add one gill of the water in which it was
boiled to one pound of brown sugar; then boil together until very
thick.
TO BLANCH ALMONDS.
Take them from the shell, cover them with boiling water and let
them stand four or five minutes; drain, and cover them again with
boiling water, when the skins will slip off easily.
FOR ADDITIONAL EECEIPTS. 373
374 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
PASTRY.
375
PA.8TRY.
Is making pastry, it is all-important to have good butter and good lard, and both must be
firm. In summer they should be thoroughly hardened on the ice; the pastry should be mixed
with ice-water, and made in a cool room. Do not touch it with the hand until it reaches the
paste-board, and then as little as possible. The object of rolling is to incorporate the hard
butter and lard with the flour, without the aid of heat. Never to roll otherwise than from one
in making pastry is an unnecessary precaution. Pastry, with the exception of mince-pies,
which are heated when served, should always be eaten the day it is baked. Unbaked pastry
may be kept for several days if perfectly cold; in using it, it is necessary to simply flour the
plate, not butter it.
PUFF PASTE.
One pound of flour.
Five ounces of flour for the board and rolling-pin.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pound of lard.
Two gills of ice-water.
Sift the pound of flour in a two-quart bowl; cut the butter and
lard through it with a knife, into bits about the size of an unshelled
almond Scatter the water over the whole, and mix lightly with the
knife. Flour a space on the board twenty-four inches long by eighteen
wide ; put the rough dough in the centre of this space, flour the pin, and
roll the dough nearly large enough to cover the flour. "With a small
sieve sift a light, barely perceptible coating of flour over the whole sheet;
then fold it in thirds lengthwise and across, making a piece about eight
inches long, and seven inches wide; turn it over, and put more flour
376 IN THE KTTCHElSr.
under it, and over the board; roll it out again, sift it with flour, and
fold; roll it out the third time, sift, and roll lightly in the form of a
scroll; cut it across in the centre, lay it on a plate, and leave it on the
ice for fifteen minutes or longer, when it is ready for use.
A PLAINER PASTE.
One pound of flour.
Five ounces of flour for the board and rolling-pin.
Quarter of a pound of lard.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
Two gills of ice-water.
Made precisely like the preceding rule. If preferred, the lard and
butter may be cut very fine in the flour with a chopping knife.
ANGELICA PASTRY.
One pound of flour.
Fifteen ounces of butter.
Half a pint of water.
Cut the butter through the sifted flour in bits about the size of an
almond; sprinkle the water over it, mixing with a knife; lay the rough
mass on the floured board, roll it out, then fold and give it a dozen
blows with the rolling-pin; repeat this rolling, folding, and beating
six times, then roll it out into a sheet, roll this in a scroll, cut it in
two, lay it on a plate and leave it in the refrigerator for half an hour
or more, when it is ready for use.
PASTE MADE WITH DRIPPINGS.
One pound of flour.
Three quarters of a pound of good beef-drippings.
PASTRY. 377
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a pint of ice-water.
Rub the dripping to a fine powder through the flour, adding the
salt; hollow a place in the centre, and pour in the water, and mix; flour
the board and your hands; take out the paste, roll it out, and fold;
this must be repeated twice, when it is ready for use.
PASTRY OF GRAHAM FLOUR.
Half a pound of Graham flour.
Two gills of sweet cream.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Mix lightly together, roll, and bake in the usual way.
POTATO PASTRY.
Three quarters of a pound of flour.
One quarter of a pound of potato rubbed through the colander.
Three ounces of butter.
One third of a teaspoonful of salt.
Cold water to make it into a paste that may be rolled.
Rub the potato, butter, flour, and salt together; stir in the water,
and roll out the paste. To be used for boiled or steamed dumplings.
CRUMB PASTRY.
This is very nice for the various puddings that are ordinarily baked
in pastry, as lemon, cocoanut, and potato. Grate stale bread, and cover
a buttered pie-plate to the usual depth of a crust; pour in the pudding,
cover the top evenly with the fine crumbs, and bake.
378 IN THE KITCIIEN.
FOR A VOL AU VENT.
Roll puff paste one inch or three quarters of an inch thick, and
about the size desired. Lay it on a baking-tin, and if a small vol au vent
is required cut it round; if large, oval. For cutting round, use a sauce-
pan cover. Trace with a knife, dipped in water to prevent sticking, a
smaller inner circle, for the cover, leaving an edge about one inch
broad, and making the knife penetrate to nearly half the thickness of
the paste; or a smaller tin cover may be laid on the paste, and pressed
in gently, to mark the inner circle. Bake, and when well risen and of
a nice, light brown, take out; lift the cover immediately, being careful
not, to make any openings in the lower part; this is called one of the
nicest operations in cookery. Lay the cover aside, and if the inner
part does not seem thoroughly baked, return it to the oven for a short
time. If an oval vol au vent is wished, the paste may be cut with an oval
basin, or marked with a vegetable-dish and cut with a knife.
SQUASH OR PUMPKIN PIE.
Cut half of a large winter squash in several pieces, remove the
seeds, but leave it unpared; lay it in the steamer, and when cooked
scrape it from the rind, and press it through the colander. To one
quart of this allow one pound of brown sugar, eight eggs, one quart of
milk, five ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls
'of ginger, and four tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. Beat the butter with
the warm squashj the sugar, salt, spice, and yolks of the eggs; stir
in the milk, which should be boiling; then add the whites, beaten
to a stiff froth; mix well; pour, in paste-lined pie-plates, having
first pricked the pastry, that there may be no air-bubbles
PASTRY. 379
to force it out of place, and put them in quite a hot oven that the egg
and milk may not separate. In ten minutes reduce the heat, as fast
cooking makes them puff. As squashes vary in dryness, the above
quantity of milk may not serve in all cases; the batter should be a
little thinner than good boiled custard. Crackers or maizena are some-
times used in squash pie instead of eggs. Two eggs may be omitted
from this receipt.
CUSTARD PIE.
Put a quart of milk over boiling water. Line a deep pie-plate
with a sheet of pastry rolled quite thin. Mix an even tablespoonfnl of
corn-starch with two. tablespoonfuls of milk, and when the milk is
scalding, stir it in with a gill and a half of sugar and a bit of salt no
larger than half a pea; stir until slightly thickened, then pour it on
four well-beaten eggs ; flavor to the taste, pour it at once into the plate,
and bake in a moderate oven. The custard should be an inch deep.
If preferred without the corn-starch, use six eggs to a quart of
milk, but do not fail to scald the milk.
APPLE PIE, NO. 1.
Line the plate with paste and fill it with layers of sour apples sliced
very thin, sugar and spice. Allow one and a half gills of sugar to a
pie of ordinary size;- and cinnamon, or nutmeg, or whole cloves to the
taste. Cover with paste, and cut a slit an inch long in the centre, wet-
ting the edge of the lower crust to make it adhere. A few minutes
before the pie is ready to come from the oven pour two or three table-
ppoonfuls of hot water through the opening in the crust. This kind of
pie may be baked in a deep dish if preferred.
380 IN THE KITCHEN".
APPLE PIE, NO. 2.
Line a plate with paste, and fill it with tender, sour apples, sliced
very thin ; cover it with paste, but do not press the edge to the lower crust.
When the apples are cooked take two knives, and lay the upper crust
on a plate; then add sugar and spice to the apples, stir all evenly to-
gether, and replace the upper crust; press it down to touch the apple.
The cracks thus made show the tenderness of the paste, and, partly
concealed by fine sugar, add to the attractiveness of the pie.
Excellent pies may be made with stewed dried apples, flavored with
spice or bits of orange or lemon-peel.
CURRANT PIE.
The currants should be fully grown, and may be slightly ripened;
line a pie-plate with pastry, put in a layer of currants carefully picked
from the stems; cover with a layer of sugar nearly as thick, then
another of currants, and of sugar; dredge an even tablespoonful of
flour over the top, cover with pastry, press down the edge, cut an
opening an inch long in the centre, and bake.
BLACKBERRY PIE.
Make this pie precisely like the above with one exception, — less
ar. The fruit should be ripe.
PEACH PIE.
Line a baking-dish with pastry; fill it with whole pared peaches
well covered with sugar; cover with pastry and bake. This is to be
eaten hot. In the winter and spring a delightful pie may be made of
dried stewed peaches; it should be no thicker than an ordinary apple pie.
PASTRY. 381
MINCE-MEAT.
LOCHLAND.
One pound of suet chopped fine.
One pound of beef chopped fine.
One pound of raisins stoned.
One pound of currants.
Half a pound of citron cut small and thin.
Two pounds of sour apples chopped fine.
Two quarts of sweet meat and Iucho pickle syrup.
One pint of thin boiled cider.
Cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg to the taste.
Mix well together; if not sufliciently sweet, add brown sugar.
Keep in a cold place in a closely-covered stone jar.
The mince-meat is baked in paste-lined plates with an upper crust.
Many bake a large number of pies, and keep them for weeks, heating
them as they are required; but it is better to keep the meat in. a stone
crock, and bake no more than will be wanted for two or three days.
They are eaten warm.
MINCE-MEAT FOE, PIES.
Mks. Talman.
Three pints of beef chopped very fine.
Three pints of suet chopped very fine.
Four pints of stoned raisins, some of them chopped.
Two pints of currants.
One pound of citron cut small and thin.
One pound of candied orange-peel cut small and thin.
Three quarts of dark-brown sugar.
382 IN THE KITCHEN.
Half an ounce of cloves ground.
One ounce of cinnamon ground.
Two quarts of sweet cider.
One quart of sherry.
Two large nutmegs grated.
The grated rind of three lemons and the juice of two.
These ingredients are to be mixed thoroughly together, and when
used, add to one measure of this mixture the like measure of finely-
chopped apples, Greenings or Spitzenbergs.
If the meat is to be kept for some time use a quart of brandy
instead of the wine, with cider to make it moist enough to pack nicely
in a stone jar, which should have a plate fitted closely over it, and then
a double paper tied down.
MINCE PIES.
Mrs. D. S. Moore.
One pound of fresh beef tongue chopped fine.
One pound and a half of suet chopped fine.
Three pounds of sour apples chopped fine.
Three pounds of stoned raisins.
One pound and a half of currants.
Half a pound of citron.
Two pounds of light brown sugar.
The juice and grated rind of one orange.
The juice of one lemon.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two nutmegs.
One tablespoonful of ground cinnamon.
Half a tablespoonful of ground cloves.
PASTRY. 383
A little mace.
One pint of wine.
Half a pint of brandy.
In making the pies, it is well to try a very small one first, to be
sure that the meat is properly seasoned, as spices differ in strength;
taste not measure should govern.
BANBURY CAKES.
Miss Simons.
One pound of suet.
One pound of currants.
One pound of raisins.
One pound of apples (sour).
Quarter of a pound of almonds.
Half a pint of bread crumbs.
One ounce of citron.
One ounce of candied lemon-peel.
One ounce of orange-peel.
The rind of three lemons.
The juice of one lemon.
Sugar, nutmeg, and brandy to taste.
*This is baked in rich pastry; roll it out in round pieces about six
inches across and a quarter of an inch thick; lay some of the above in
the centre lap and press the sides together, then fold over the ends,
rounding the corners, and making the cake oval.
APPLES A LA NONE.
Pare and core several fine large Spitzenbergs or Greenings; put a
shred of lemon-peel in each; stew them in a syrup, allowing half a
384 IN THE KITCHEN.
pound of sugar to a pint of water. Cover, and cook slowly, and if
necessary, turn the apples, but be very careful not to break them ; when
tender take them out, and lay them on a plate or platter that may be
trusted in the oven; when cold fill. them withisugar and preserved cher-
ries drained from the syrup; cut puff paste with a jagging-iron in long
strips as wide as a straw, and twine one around each apple; raise the
apple to secure the lower end, and flatten the other end to cover the
opening at the top. Bake, and serve hot. If liked, the apple and paste
may be glazed with the beaten yolk of an egg.
VELVET CAKES.
One quart of sifted flour.
One pint of sweet milk.
One gill of sugar.
One egg.
One and a half ounces of butter.
Three even tablespoonfuls, of baking powder.
Beat the egg, sugar, and butter together until very light; sift
over them the sifted flour with the baking powder; stir in enough of
the milk to make a thick batter, and beat it thoroughly; add the rest
of the milk; pour in buttered gem-pans, and bake twenty minutes.
Serve hot for tea.
FOR ADDITIOXAL RECEIPTS. 385
386 FOR ADDITIONAL EBCED?TS.
PUDDINGS. 387
PUDDINGS.
Puddings that are baked in pastry, though often called pies, are nevertheless, in polite
acceptation, pudding's, with one exception, — the time-honored Yankee pumpkin pie! An at-
tempt to give this pride of New England any other name would be sacrilege to the memory of
our forefathers. It has always been and must always be pie. But here comes another claimant,
a lineal descendant, who insists on his right also to the family name and with a determina-
tion worthy his Puritan ancestors, he will not be denied. So the two must stand together, —
the pumpkin pie and the custard pie.
AMBER PUDDING.
Mrs. G., of Rochester.
One pound of sugar.
Three ounces of butter creamed.
Two lemons, juice and grated rind.
Nine eggs.
Stir part of the sugar in the butter, add the yolks, the rest of the
sugar, and the lemon ; beat very light, whisk the whites to a stiff froth,
and beat all together ; pour in paste-lined pie-plates, and bake half an
hour. To be eaten cold.
LEMON PUDDING.
One pint of rich milk.
Six ounces of white sugar.
Four eggs, well beaten.
Four tablespoonfuls of rolled cracker.
Two tablespoonfuls of melted butter.
The grated rind of one and a half lemons and the juice of one.
Add the softened butter to the sugar, cracker, and eggs, and beat
38S IX THE KITCHEN.
thoroughly together; stir in the lemon, then add the milk gradually,
mixing well; pour it in deep, paste-lined plates, and put it in quite a
hot oven, reducing the heat after the first eight or ten minutes. To be
eaten cold.
LEMON PUDDING.
Mrs. B.
Nine eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
Two lemons, the grated rind and juice.
One pound of sugar.
Three ounces, or a little less, of butter, creamed.
One pint of milk.
One and a half even tablespoonfuls of flour.
Beat the yolks and sugar until very light; add the butter, with
which the flour has been smoothly mixed, then the lemons, the milk,
and the eggs, which must be beaten in slowly, gently, and thoroughly.
Bake like the above.
LEMON PUDDING.
Mbs. William Smith.
Two even tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed smooth with a little cold
water, and stirred in half a pint of boiling water; let it thicken and boil.
Have the yolks of three eggs, half a pint of sugar, the juice of one lemon
and half the grated rind, beaten thoroughly together, then stir in the
boiling starch; pour it in a large-sized pie-plate lined with paste, and
bake.
When just done take it from the oven, and spread over it a me-
ringue made of the three whites beaten stiff and four tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar; spread it over the hot pudding, return it to the oven
PUDDINGS. 389
for two or three minutes, brown slightly, for if left too long the me-
ringue will shrink and toughen. To be eaten cold.
Corn-stareh may be used instead of flour in the above recipe.
ORANGE PUDDING.
Half a pound of sugar.
Quarter of a pound of batter.
Two oranges.
Six eggs.
Grate the rind from the oranges and squeeze the juice; cream
the butter, and by degrees add the sugar; beat in the yolks of the eggs
one by one, then the rind and the juice of the oranges; beat the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them very gently, with a long, slow
beat, into the other ingredients. Bake in paste-lined tin pie-plates.
ORANGE PUDDING.
Db ruoiT.
The grated rind of two oranges.
The juice and soft pulp of three oranges.
Half a pint of sugar.
Half a pint of milk. Four eggs.
Two Boston crackers rolled and sifted, or four and a half table-
spoonfuls of rolled and sifted cracker.
One ounce of butter.
Cream the butter, stir in the rind, the juice and sugar, the well-
beaten eggs and crackers; add the milk, mix well, and bake in a pud-
ding-dish lined with paste.
390 IN THE KITCHEN.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S ORANGE PUDDING.
Quarter of a pound of sugar.
One lemon.
Two oranges.
The yolks of five eggs.
Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the lemon and oranges,
beat the eggs, add the rind, the sugar, and juice; beat well, and bake
in a paste-lined pie-plate.
C0C0ANUT PUDDING.
Half a pound of sugar.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pound of grated cocoanut.
The whites of six eggs.
One tablespoonful of rose-water.
Two tablespoonfuls of wine.
Be careful to pare all of the brown skin from the cocoanut before
grating; beat the butter and sugar to a cream; whisk the eggs to a
dry froth, and stir them in the butter and sugar; add gradually the rose-
water, wine, and cocoanut. Bake in pie-plates, lined with pastry.
GOOSEBERRY PUDDING,
From Mes. Beeton's Book.
"Put gooseberries into a jar, previously cutting off the tops and
tails, place the jar in boiling water and let it boil until the gooseberries
are soft enough to pulp, then beat them through a coarse sieve, and to
a pint of pulp add three well-whisked eggs, one ounce and a half of
butter, half a pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to the taste. Beat the
mixture well, lay a border of puff paste around the edge of a pie-dish,
put in the pudding, bake for about forty minutes, strew sifted sugar
over, and serve."
PUDDINGS. 391
RICH APPLE PUDDING.
Pare, quarter, and core six large, juicy apples, stew them in one
and a half gills of water with the rind of a lemon; when soft- rub them
through the colander; add six ounces of good brown sugar, six well-
beat en eggs, one pint of rich cream, and one teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Line a dish with paste, pour in the apple, and bake in a slow oven.
"When baked, stick thin strips of citron and candied lemon-peel all
over the top.
A SIMPLE APPLE PUDDING.
Peel, quarter, and core five or six sour apples; hardly cover them
with water; stew until perfectly soft; rub them through a sieve. To
one pint of this add two ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, half a
teaspoonful of mace, one third of a nutmeg grated, the grated rind of
a lemon, the beaten yolks of two eggs, and half a gill of milk. Beat
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix them lightly with the apple,
etc., then pour in paste-lined plates, and bake.
PINEAPPLE PUDDING.
From "Choice Receipts" published for the benefit of Christ's Church Pair, Hartford,
CONX.
One grated pineapple.
One pound of sugar.
Half a pound of butter.
Ten eggs.
Two ounces of bread crumbs.
392 IN THE KITCHEN.
Cream the butter and beat it with the sugar until very light; add
the yolks of the eggs and beat well, then the pineapple and bread-
crumbs; lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth; bake in paste-lined
pie-plates. To be eaten cold.
PINEAPPLE PUDDING.
From "Choice Receipts" by M. S. W., Boston, Mass.
A grated pineapple, and its weight in sugar.
Half its weight in butter.
Five eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
One cup of cream.
Cream the butter and beat it with the sugar and yolks until very
light; add the cream, the pineapple, and the whites of the eggs. Bake
in pie-plates lined with pastry. To be eaten cold.
POTATO PUDDING.
Mrs B.
Six eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
One pound of potato rubbed through the colander.
One pound of sugar.
One quarter of a pound of butter.
The grated rind and juice of one lemon.
Let the hot potato fall from the colander on the butter; mix well;
add the yolks and sugar well beaten together, the lemon, and the
whites; stir lightly, pour in paste-lined pie-plates, and bake. To be
eaten cold.
PUDDINGS. 39J
POTATO PUDDING.
DUDDINGTON.
One pound of sugar.
One pound of potato rubbed through the colander.
Half a pound of butter.
I Twelve eggs, the whites beaten separately.
The rind of three lemons.
A grated nutmeg, if liked.
Mix as in the above rule, beating the yolks until very light. Bake
also in the same way.
CREAM PUDDING.
One and a half ounces of sugar.
Half a pint of cream.
Half a nutmeg.
The whites of three eggs.
Bake in crumbs (page 377) or in a crust. Mix the cream, sugar,
yolks, and nutmeg; then stir in lightly the 'whites, which have been
beaten to a stiff froth.
The electrotyped dish in which a baked pudding is sometimes
served adds very much to its appearance, and is also equally useful
for a meat pie or for scalloped oysters. The knit covers are preferred
by many ; they are of white tidy-cotton, knit in raised points, producing,
at a little distance, the effect of some rare china.
394 IN THE KITCHEN.
POOR MAN'S 'PUDDING.
Six ounces of rice.
Four ounces of sugar.
One ounce of butter.
Three pints of milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Put the rice in the baking-dish, and wash it thoroughly through
several waters; add to it all the other ingredients and put it in the
oven; in five or ten minutes, when the butter is melted, stir it, to mix
well. Bake slowly, and be very careful to take it from the oven as soon
as it is done. The best test I have found is this : On tipping the dish
the rice and milk move together. If not sufficiently cooked, the milk
runs from the rice; if too much cooked, neither move. This is a
most delicious pudding if properly baked; otherwise, it is really
unfit to serve. Every grain of rice should be perfect, surrounded
and barely held together by a rich, creamy substance. Allow two hours
for baking, and give more time if necessary. When nearly done, unless
the heat of the oven is quite low, draw the pudding to the front, and
leave the door open.
To be .eaten cold, alone, or with sugar and cream.
RICE PUDDING.
Ten ounces of sugar.
Five ounces of rice.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of milk.
One pint of water.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
PUDDINGS. 395
One lemon.
Four eggs.
"Wash the rice thoroughly, and boil it in the water with the salt
until holes come on the surface; add the butter cut in bits, six ounces
of the sugar, and the grated rind of the lemon; beat the yolks thor-
oughly, stir the milk with them, and pour it gradually on the rice, mix-
ing gently. Bake, and when cold beat the whites of the eggs to a
stiff froth ; add gradually the remainder of the sugar, and flavor with the
juice of the lemon. Put this meringue over the pudding and brown it
delicately in the oven.
BOILED RICE PUDDING.
Wash a pint of rice, rubbing it well through several waters; mix
with it half a pint of good-sized, clean raisins; tie it in a cloth, leaving
it room to increase about one third, and plunge it in a kettle of boiling
water slightly salted ; cover, and boil three fourths of an hour. To be
eaten hot with sauce, — a gill of butter well-creamed, and beaten until
light with two gills of brown sugar. Serve with nutmeg thickly grated
over the peaks.
THE SIMPLEST OF ALL BREAD PUDDINGS.
Cut the crust very evenly from a loaf of bread, fold it in a napkin,
and lay it in the steamer; let it steam half an hour. When served
pour over it a hot wine sauce.
BREAD PUDDING BOILED, NO. L
Half a pound of bread crumbs.
Half a pint of cold milk.
Three ounces of raisins.
Break the bread in rather large crumbs, pour the milk over the
396 I5T THE KITCHEN.
bread and raisins, and stir, that the m'dk may reach all of the crumbs;
in five minutes tie it in a cloth, and steam it half an hour. The cloth
requires neither butter nor flour to prevent the pudding from sticking.
When ready to serve dip it for an instant in cold water, and the cloth
will come off easily.
BOILED BEEAD PUDDING, NO. 2.
One quart of loose bread crumbs.
One pint of milk. ,
One gill of currants.
One gill of finely-cut citron.
One gill of sugar.
Two gills of stoned raisins.
The grated rind of a lemon.
Three eggs.
Mix the bread with the lemon-peel and fruit, and put it in two but-
tered tin moulds holding one and a half pints each; do not press, it
down. Beat the eggs and sugar together, stir in the milk, and pour
the whole over the bread; it will just fill the moulds; tie a cloth over
each, place them in a kettle, and pour in enough boiling water to half
cover them ; cover the kettle closely and boil one and a half hours. To
be eaten hot with sauce.
The fruit may be omitted or a smaller quantity used ; or quarters
of stewed dried apple or peach may be used in layers. If preferred,
it may be made entirely without fruit, using a small grated nutmeg in
addition to the lemon. Stale cake may be substituted for bread.
BAKED BEEAD PUDDING.
Half a pound of bread.
Two ounces of butter.
PUDDINGS. 397
Three ounces of sugar.
One and a half ounces of currants.
One and a half pints of milk.
A small nutmeg.
Three eggs.
Cut the bread in thin slices and butter them ; put a layer in a bak-
ing-dish that will hold three pints; grate a little nutmeg and scatter a
few currants over it; make three of these layers. Beat the eggs, add
the sugar and milk, mix well, and pour it over the bread; let it stand
fifteen or twenty minutes, then bake half an hour in a moderate oven.
To be eaten hot with " Fairy Butter." The grated rind of a lemon
improves this pudding, and raisins may be used instead of or with
the currants.
AN ENGLISH BAKED BREAD PUD DING.
Half a pound of grated or crumbed bread.
Four ounces of butter.
Four ounces of sugar.
Two ounces of candied lemon-peel.
One pint of milk
Six bitter almonds.
One tablespoonful of wine.
Four eggs.
Put the milk and bitter almonds, shredded, over boiling water;
cut the lemon-peel in small, thin strips over the bread; add the butter
and sugar. When there is a film on the milk pour it over them; when
cool add the well-beaten eggs. To be baked three quarters of an hour
in a pudding-dish, or in a buttered mould and turned out. It may be
eateD with or without sauce.
398 IN THE KITCHEN-.
PLAIN INDIAN PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
One pint of corn-meal.
Two ounces of butter.
Four ounces of brown sugar.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Two teaspoonfuls of ginger.
Three eggs.
Mix the meal with nearly half of the milk, and put the remainder
of the milk over hot water to boil, adding to it the butter, ginger, and
salt. When scalding hot, stir, in the meal and let it cook several min-
utes ; when it is a smooth, tolerably thick batter, take it off and put in
the sugar; let it partially cool, beat the yolks in the batter, one by one;
whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them in gently, then
pour into a pudding-dish and bake three quarters of an hour.
This may be eaten with "Fairy Butter" or with sugar and cream.
BAKED INDIAN PUDDING.
Philadelphia.
One ounce of drippings or butter.
One pint of boiling milk.
Three gills of corn -meal.
Three gills of molasses.
One tablespoonful of ginger.
One teaspoonful of cinnamon.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
The grated rind of a lemon.
Three eggs.
PUDDINGS. 399
Pour the milk on the meal, add the drippings, salt, spices, lemon-
peel and molasses; cover the dish, and let it stand on the table for an
hour, then stir in the beaten yolks, and lastly the whites of the eggs,
whisked to a stiff froth. Pour it in a pudding-dish, and bake from half
to three quarters of an hour, stirring it several times during the first
ten or fifteen minutes; if a slight crust has formed it does no harm to
stir it in. To be eaten with a sauce of butter, beaten with brown
sugar.
If liked, half a pint of the pulp of baked apple may be added to
the above ingredients.
BAKED INDIAN PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS, NO. 1.
One quart of milk.
One pint and one gill of corn-meal.
Half a pint of molasses.
One teaspoonful of allspice or ginger.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Boil the milk, and pour it gradually on the meal, mixing well; put
it back to cook for ten minutes, stirring it now and then; add the salt,
allspice, and molasses, and bake from half to three quarters of an hour.
To be eaten with sauce.
BAKED INDIAN PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS, NO. 2.
Four ounces of suet chopped fine.
One gill of molasses.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One pint of corn-meal.
One pint of scalding milk.
Half a pint of cold milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of ginger and two of cinnamon.
400 EST THE KITCHEN.
Mix the_cold milk with the meal, stir in the scalding milk, add the
other ingredients, beat well; pour in a buttered dish and bake from
half to three quarters of an hour. To be eaten with sauce.
TRENTON FALLS PUDDING.
Delicious. — Bake Half an Hour.
Four ounces of butter.
Half a pint and a tablespoonful of corn-meal.
Half a pint of powdered sugar.
Three eggs.
Beat the butter and sugar together untilvery light; add the yolks,
beat them in thoroughly, then the meal, by degrees, and lastly the
whites, whisked to a stiff froth; mix well, and bake in a buttered dish.
To be eaten hot with sauce. It looks like a rich pound cake.
OATMEAL PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
One pint of oatmeal.
Half a pound of suet chopped fine.
One quarter of a pound of stoned raisins.
One quarter of a pound of currants.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Four ounces of sugar.
Half a nutmeg grated.
Three eggs.
Scald the milk at night and pour it hot over the meal ; stir, cover,
and let it remain until the next day. Two hours before dinner beat
the eggs, and stir them in with all the other ingredients. Have ready
a kettle of boiling water, lay the pudding-cloth in a bowl, pour in the
PUDDTNGS. 401
pudding, tie it tight, leaving it but little room to swell; plunge it at
once in the boiling water, cover, and keep it boiling for two hours,
replenishing from the tea-kettle. A maple-sugar sauce is very nice
with it.
BOILED BATTER PUDDING.
One and a half pounds of flour, less one tablespoonful.
Two quarts of milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Eight eggs.
Put the flour and salt in a bowl, stir in enough of the milk to make
a thick batter, break in the eggs, and beat well, then add the rest of the
milk. Have ready a kettle of boiling water with a tin pie-plate at the
bottom; have the pudding-bag well buttered and floured; pour in the
batter, and tie it tight within an inch of the batter; plunge it in boiling
water, and boil steadily for two hours. To be eaten hot with sauce.
QUIVER PUDDING.
F. B. J.
One quart of milk.
One pint of flour.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Ten eggs.
Mix half a pint of the milk with the sifted flour and salt, drop
in the eggs, and beat until light; add the rest of the milk grad-
ually, and when well mixed, pour the batter in a buttered dish, and bake
one hour in a quick oven. Serve immediately, as it falls in a few
moments. To be eaten with sauce.
26
402 IN THE KITCHEN.
A DELICATE BATTER PUDDING.
Two ounces of flour.
Two ounces of powdered sugar.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of milk.
Three eggs.
Cream the butter, and add the flour with the sugar and enough of
the milk to make quite a thick batter; add the eggs one by one, and
beat until very light; then stir in gradually the rest of the milk, and
bake in patty-pans. To be eaten with sauce.
TAPIOCA PUDDING.
Two ounces of tapioca soaked all night in a gill of cold water.
Five ounces of sugar.
One quart of milk.
Vanilla or bitter almond.
A pinch of salt.
Three eggs.
In the morning add half of the milk to the tapioca, and keep it
over boiling water until quite soft; add the sugar, salt, and two tea-
spoonfuls of vanilla, the beaten yolks, and the rest of the milk; lastly
the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake a light brown in a moderate
oven, and take it out before it is too stiff to shake. This pudding
is often covered with a meringue when served;, rich cream, flavored,
sweetened, and beaten 'until thick is also very nice; small bits of pre-
served pineapple may be added just before putting it over the pudding;
or bits of citron an inch long, stewed until tender, may be used with
shied almonds in the beaten cream.
PUDDINGS. 403
FARINA PUDDING.
Two ounces of farina.
One ounce of butter.
Five ounces of sugar.
One quart of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a vanilla bean or two teaspoonfuls of extract of vanilla.
Four eggs.
Put the bean and the milk over boiling water, reserving a gill in
which to mix the farina. When the milk is covered with a film add
the farina, salt, and sugar, and stir until about as thick as boiled cus-
tard; take it from the fire, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth,
beat the yolks, and pour the farina over them (it need not be cool),
stir well, then pour it over the whites of the eggs, and mix thoroughly;
pour in a large baking-dish, and bake in a moderate oven so slowly
that there will be no bubbling. To be eaten cold with cream.
BROTHER JONATHAN.
Fill a two-quart tin basin two thirds its depth with pared, quar-
tered, and cored apples; add a gill of water; lay over them a piece of
bread dough which has been left from the morning's baking; it should
be three quarters of an inch thick, and should cover the apples, touching
the basin all around, and leaving an inch between it and the top of the
basin. Put it on the range, covered closely with a tin pie-plate, with a
flat-iron to keep it in place ; when it begins to boil push it a little back,
where it will cook slowly; it requires three quarters of an hour. Serve
it turned upside down on a platter. To be eaten with sugar and cream,
or a sauce.
4Q4 EST THE KITCHEN".
SISTER JONATHINE.
Half a pound of flour.
One and a half ounces of lard.
One and three quarter gills of cold milk.
Two even teaspoonfuls of cream yeast-powder.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Rub the lard and salt thoroughly in the flour, e\n the mr-r <i?er
through a fine wire-cloth sieve, all over the flour, and stir it well; O.en
pour the milk ovej it, moistening the whole evenly, and mix li^l-Jy.
Have fine Spitzenbergs or Greenings, pared, quartered, and cored; lay
the quarters close together in a round pie-tin; roll out the dough and
put it over the apples, making a cut an inch long in the centre. Bake
about half an hour; the crust may be raised and the apple tried, to be
sure that it is cooked. When ready, loosen the crust from the tin, and
turn it with the apples Upside down on a dinner-plate. Serve hot. To
be eaten with a sauce, or with sugar and cream.
MINUTE PUDDING.
Put one pint of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt over boiling
water; when very hot place the basin on the stove, and as soon as the
milk rises stir in one pint of flour; mix well, and serve immediately.
This pudding is to be eaten with "Cream-Sauce." (See page 434.)
BLACKBERRY PUDDING STEAMED.
One and a quarter pounds of flour.
One quart of blackberries.
Two gills of beef suet.
Twq gills of molasses.
PUDDINGS. 405
Two gills of milk.
Two gills of brown sugar.
One teaspoonful of soda dissolved in one tablespoonful of boiling
water.
Mix the sugar, molasses, suet, and milk together, then add part of
the flour, then the soda, the rest of the flour, and the fruit. Butter a
mould, put in the pudding and steam three hours. To be eaten with
sauce.
It may be steamed in a two-quart tin basin. It is good the next
day sliced and fried.
BLACKBERRY PUDDING BAKED.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
One pound of brown sugar.
Half a pound of flour.
One quart of blackberries.
Four eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and the yolks of the
eggs; beat until very light; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth,
add them alternately with the flour, stir the blackberries very gently in
the batter, pour it in a buttered pudding-dish, and allow an hour and
half for baking. To be eaten hot with wine sauce or " Fairy Butter."
BLACK CURRANT PUDDING.
One pint of black currants.
One pint of molasses.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling
water.
406 IN THE KITCHEN.
Half a teaspoonful of cloves.
Half a teaspoonful of cinnamon.
Half a teaspoonful of allspice.
Flour to make it as thick as pound cake.
Mix the molasses, salt, spices, and part of the flour, then the soda
and the rest of the flour, afterwards the fruit; put the mixture in a
buttered mould, and steam it three hours. To be eaten with sauce.
BOILED WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING.
PUMPELLY.
Mix one teaspoonful of soda in one pint of molasses (mixing it
first in a spoonful only of the molasses) . Stir in three pints of Whortle-
berries, sift in one quart of flour, and add a grated nutmeg; tie it
tight in a well-floured bag, leaving it a little room to swell. Boil or
steam from three to four hours. To be eaten hot with " Fairy Butter."
This pudding is sometimes made with only a quart of whortle-
berries; and cinnamon and cloves arc used instead of nutmeg.
STEAMED APPLE DUMPLING.
. Make a soda biscuit, or baking-powder dough, or a raised dough
as in the next receipt. Roll it out half an inch thick; pile the centre
with sour apples that have been pared, quartered, and cored; draw the
crust over them and pinch the edges together; turn the dumpling up-
side down, on a plate or platter, put it in the steamer, cover closely, and
keep it over boiling water for1 three quarters of an hour. Tf small
dumplings are preferred, divide the crust into pieces that will cover
four quarters of apple. Make them up in the same way, place side by
PUDDINGS. d07
side on a platter and steam them. These are eaten with 'sugar and
cream, or with plain butter and brown sugar, or with syrup and. butter.
BAKED APPLE DUMPLING.
One pound of raised dough.
Two ounces of butter (or butter and lard).
Six medium-sized sour apples, pared and cored.
Mix the butter thoroughly with the dough, and leave it to rise an
hour and three quarters before the dumplings are wanted, being sure
that the dough is sweet; divide it into six equal pieces. Should the
dough have the least sour odor, dissolve a quarter of an even teaspoon-
ful of soda in a teaspoonful of milk; roll out the dough, coat it with
the dissolved soda, fold, and knead it well; then divide, roll out the
pieces a little thinner towards the edge, lay an apple in the centre of each,
put in it a little brown sugar, a pinch of cinnamon and a wee bit of
butter; enclose it in the dough and lay it in the baking-dish, the
smooth side up. When all the apples are covered and in place, let
them stand an hour, that the dough may rise again; then sprinkle a
teaspoonful of sugar between them, adding a few small bits of butter;
pour in half a pint of hot water, and bake them from half to three
quarters of an hour.
They may be eaten with sauce or with sugar and cream.
APPLE CHARLOTTE.
One pound of apples.
Half a pound of bread.
Three ounces of butter.
Eight ounces of sugar.
Two gills of water.
408 IN THE KITCHEN.
One lemon, or one nutmeg, or neither.
Pare the apples and cut them in thin small slices; take a baking-
dish holding three pints, put in it a few small bits of butter, then a layer
of apple and sugar, a little of the grated rind of the lemon, if liked, and
some bits of butter; then a layer of very thin bread and butter, another
of apple, a second layer of bread, and a third layer of apple, reserving the
butter for the crumbs which go over the top. If the apples are quite
sour the lemon-juice is not necessary; otherwise, squeeze the lemon in
a coffee-cup (the ordinary size holds two gills), nil it with cold water,
and pour over the apple; then cover the apple with the remainder of
the bread, either crumbed or grated; spot it with the rest of the butter.
Bake very slowly for two hours, keeping it covered after the first half
hour.
PIE-PLANT CHARLOTTE.
Peel the pie-plant and cut it in bits an inch long; butter a baking-
dish, put in a layer of bread crumbs, then a layer of pie-plant well cov-
ered with sugar, another layer of bread crumbs, and so on until the
dish is filled, having the last layer of bread crumbs dotted with small
bits of butter. If preferred, the bread may be cut in thin slices and
buttered. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of pie-plant. Bake very
slowly for an hour and a half. It may be turned from the dish and
served with a boiled custard poured around it.
Cherry, currant, raspberry, and gooseberry charlottes, are all ex-
cellent. They are better lukewarm, than cold or hot.
quince pudding.
Three quinces weighing about one pound.
Three ounces of butter.
PUDDINGS. 409
Eight ounces of sugar.
Two light, dried biscuits weighing three ounces.
One quart of milk.
Three eggs.
Peel, quarter, and core the quinces, put them in a pudding-dish
and steam until tender; then pour off the juice which has come from
them and press them through the colander on the butter, that the heat
may soften it. If difficult to press all of the quince through the colan-
der, use a little of the milk to thin it. Roll the biscuit with the rolling-
-pin, and add them to the quince with the sugar, the beaten eggs, and
the milk; pour it in a pudding-dish, and put it in the oven; when it
begins to bake, say in five minutes, stir it gently but thoroughly, for a
moment, with a spoon.
This may be eaten either hot or cold; if hot, serve with "Fairy
Butter"; if cold, with sugar and cream.
DRIED PEACH PUDDING.
Three quarters of a pound of flour.
One pint of dried peaches.
Three gills of beef suet.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Cold water.
Chop the peaches and suet, mix them with the flour and salt; add
water to stick the ingredients together in as stiff a dough as can be
easily made with a spoon ; tie it in a cloth, leaving room to swell,
and steam or boil from three to four hours. To be eaten with wine
sauce.
410 IN THE KITCHEN.
BOLSTER.
Make a crust with baking-powder or like soda biscuit (page
300), roll it out half an inch thick, spread with any kind of preserved
fruit to within three inches of the edge; fold the sides over the fruit,
then begin at the end and roll it in the form of a bolster; place it on a
buttered plate and steam it from forty-five to sixty minutes. When
served, pass a knife under it and slide it on a platter. To be eaten
with "Fairy Butter" or sugar and cream.
DRIED FRUIT PUDDING.
Ten ounces of bread crumbs.
Ten ounces of brown sugar.
Eight ounces of chopped suet.
Four ounces of dried cherries.
Four ounces of dried peaches.
Half a nutmeg.
One teaspoonful of mace.
One orange.
Three eggs.
Soak the fruit over night in just water enough to cover it. In the
morning take it from the water with the hand, thus avoiding any grit
that may have settled at the bottom; drain it, and partially dry it in a
towel. Beat the eggs and add the grated rind and juice of the orange;
pour this over all the other ingredients ; mis well, and tie the pudding
in a cloth, leaving very little room for it to swell; steam it three hours.
The cloth requires neither flour nor butter; the pudding may be
plunged for an instant in cold water when taken from the steamer. To
be eaten with a rich sauce.
PUDDINGS. 411
COLLEGE DUMPLINGS.
Half a pound of bread crumbs.
Three gills of cold milk.
Two ounces of butter.
Four ounces of brown sugar.
One teaspoonful of cinnamon.
Half a teaspoonful of cloves. Two ounces of sliced citron.
The rind of one lemon. One quarter of a pound of raisins.
Three eggs. One quarter of a pound of currants.
Break the bread in small crumbs, do not grate it, pour two thirds
of the milk over it, and let it soak fifteen minutes or more; melt the
butter in the rest, add that with the spice, fruit, sugar, and eggs, adding
the whites beaten to a stiff froth; bake it in buttered cups. This
quantity is sufficient for ten. When served, turn them upside down on
a platter, and sift sugar over them; they are eaten with a liquid sauce.
If a softer batter is preferred, use one pint of milk instead of three
gills.
PLUM PUDDING.
E. W.
One pound of stoned raisins.
One pound of bread crumbs.
Half a pound of suet, chopped fine.
Quarter of a pound of citron.
One gill of wine or brandy, or the rind and juice of a lemon.
Two and a half gills of sugar.
Half a pint of milk.
Half a nutmeg.
One teaspoonful of mace.
Eight eggs.
412
IN THE KITCHEN".
Beat the yolks thoroughly and stir in the milk, add all the other ingre-
dients leaving the whites of the eggs to go in last, having been whisked
to a stiff froth; mix well, tie it in a cloth, and boil six hours. Turn the
pudding occasionally, and keep the kettle supplied with boiling water.
To be eaten with sauce.
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING.
Two and a half pints of bread.
Two and a half pints of suet.
Three pints of raisins.
Half a pint of brown sugar.
Half a gill of brandy.
One teaspoonful of ginger.
An eggshell of flour.
A little salt.
Ten eggs, less four whites.
Boil Ave or six hours, leaving a little room for swelling. A num-
ber of these may be made at once ; they will keep through the winter,
hung in a cold, dry place.
MRS. POTTER'S PUDDING.
Three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs.
One half of a pound of raisins.
Two ounces of butter.
Two ounces of brown sugar.
One gill of milk.
Three eggs.
Chop the raisins, roll them with the rolling-pin or stone them;
reserve a few of the largest to stone, open, and stick to the inside of
the mould; these may be arranged in rows, diamonds, or circles, as they
PUDBIXGS. 413
will easily adhere if the mould is well-buttered, and the inside of the
raisin put next it. Beat the eggs until light, melt the butter in the
milk, and add the sugar; when a little cooled pour it on the eggs, and
pour the whole over the bread crumbs. Mix it thoroughly, put it in
the mould, and steam it an hour or longer. To be eaten with sauc«>
WARRENER'S PUDDING.
One pint and three gills of flour. ^
Half a pint of sweet milk.
Half a pint of chopped suet.
Half a pint of chopped raisins.
Half a pint of molasses.
Three quarters of a teaspoonful of soda.
Mix well together, adding the soda dissolved in a little of the milk
before putting in all of the flour. Boil or steam it in a mould or bag
for three hours. To be eaten with sauce.
EVE'S PUDDING.
Six ounces of grated bread.
Six ounces of sifted sugar.
Six ounces of chopped apple.
Six ounces or more of raisins.
Six ounces of suet.
A little nutmeg and salt.
Six eggs.
Beat the eggs until light, add all the other ingredients, and mix
thoroughly; tie the pudding in a cloth, or put it in a mould, and steam
from three to five hours. To be eaten with Bailee.
414 IN THE KITCHEN.
A PLAINER EVE'S PUDDING.
Four ounces of butter or finely-chopped suet.
Half a pint of chopped sour apples.
Half a pint of bread crumbs.
Half a pint of stoned raisins.
Half a pint of brown sugar.
Half a tea spoonful of cinnamon.
Half a teaspoonful of allspice.
Half a nutmeg grated.
Four eggs.
Cream the butter and beat it with the sugar; add the well-beaten
eggs, spices, apples, and bread.
If suet is used beat the eggs first, add the sugar, suet, etc. ; mix
thoroughly; put it in a buttered mould and steam, or boil it from three
to five hours. To be eaten with a wine sauce.
CROUTES AUX ABBICOTS.
Halve and stone some apricots; place each half with the inside
uppermost upon a thin, square piece of bread; fit them in the bottom of
a well-buttered dish, lay a piece of butter on each, sprinkle them with
sugar, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven; when done,
arrange carefully in a dish, pour over them the syrup they made in
cooking, and serve hot. Peaches, large plums, and pears may be done
thus.
CABINET PUDDING.
One quart of rich boiled custard, flavored with half a gill of wine,
or with vanilla.
Two ounces of raisins.
PUDDINGS. 415
Two ounces of candied peaches, or apricots cut small.
Two ounces of cherries.
One ounce of currants.
Butter a plain mould and put a round of paper at the bottom, then
a layer a quarter of an inch deep of the mixed fruit, on this a layer of
finger biscuit or sliced sponge cake; continue this until the mould is
two thirds full, then pour in the hot custard slowly; cover the mould,
let it stand a few minutes, and then steam it from twenty to thirty min- *
utes. Turn the pudding from the mould, and serve hot, with sauce.
This quantity will fill two one-and-a-half-pint moulds.
A COLD CABINET PUDDING.
Prepare a cream blanc-mange, and before it is stiff put a little in a
mould and let it run all over to leave a thin coating; then ornament it
with candied cherries, fill the mould loosely with firm, preserved fruits,
macaroons, and crumbed sponge cake soaked in wine, and a little citron
cut very thin ; then pour in slowly the liquid blanc-mange until the
mould is full. Let it stand in a cold place all night, to become very
firm.
COCOANUT PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
Half a pint of bread crumbs.
Half a pint of desiccated cocoanut.
One and a half gills of sugar.
One ounce of butter.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Scald the milk over boiling water; put the bread and cocoanut in
416 IN" THE KITCHEN.
the baking-dish; beat the eggs, add the butter and salt, and pour the
hot milk over them ; stir, and pour it in the baking-dish, mix well, wipe
the edge of the dish, and place it in a pan of hot water in a moderate
oven. After fifteen minutes stir it thoroughly; allow about an hour
for baking. Try the pudding by shaking the dish; if it does not move
take it out at once. To be eaten cold.
TRANSPARENT PUDDING.
Rub half a pound of butter with one pound of sugar; add one
tablespoonful of rose-water and half a grated nutmeg; beat the yolks
of eight eggs with the butter and sugar, whisk the whites to a dry
froth. Butter a baking-dish, cover the bottom with slices of sponge
cake, spread with marmalade or sweetmeats, pour in the mixture, and
bake in a moderate oven. Make a meringue of the whites of four eggs
beaten stiff and four tablespoonfuls of sugar, flavor with bitter almond,
spread it over the pudding, and leave it in a quick oven for a moment
to brown slightly; a few sweet almonds blanchet m*c finely shredded
ma^ be added to the meringue.
MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
Half a pound of stale sponge cake crumbed
Six ounces of sugar.
Six large pippins.
One small nutmeg grated.
The grated rind and juice of one large lemon..
Six eggs.
Pare, core, and quarter the. apples; stew them in very little water;
PUDDINGS. k 417
when soft but not broken, drain, and mash them smooth with the bat-
ter; when quite cold add the sugar, sponge cake, nutmeg, and lemon
alternately; then whisk the eggs until very thick, and stir in gradually;
mix all well together, then put it in a buttered dish, and bake in rather
a quick oven three quarters of an hour. When done, turn from the
dish, sift white sugar over it, if liked, and ornament with thin slices of
citron.
BURNETT PUDDING.
Hudson, N. Y.
Line a pudding-dish with rich paste. Pare and core six sour
apples, and stew gently until tender, not allowing them to break; place
them in the dish, fill them with sugar, stoned raisins, and bits of citron,
and grate a little nutmeg and the rind of a fresh lemon over them.
Cream ten ounces of butter, add the same weight of powdered sugar
and eight beaten eggs, beat all together, and stir in one gill of milk;
put it over boiling water, and stir until of the consistency of boiled
custard; pour this over the apples, and bake half an hour.
BEAULIEU PUDDING.
One lemon.
Two ounces of candied lemon-peel cut fine.
Three ounces of sugar.
Six ounces of flour.
Six ounces of butter.
Six bitter almonds cut in shreds.
Ten sweet almonds cut in shreds.
Four eggs.
Cream the butter, add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs ; beat
until very light. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add the
418 EST THE KITCHEK".
*.
lemon-peel and almonds, the rind and juice of the lemon to the sugar,
and add them alternately with the flour; stir lightly, drop in buttered
gem or patty-pans, and put them in the oven. When baked, turn them
upside down and serve on a napkin. To be eaten with a liquid sauce.
TIP TOP PUDDING.
Five ounces of coffee sugar.
One ounce of butter.
One quart of cold new milk.
One pint of stale bread crumbed.
One lemon.
Four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.
Four eggs. A small tumbler of currant jelly.
Grate the lemon-rind and crumb the bread ; beat the yolks of the
•eggs in the pudding-dish; add gradually the sugar, lemon-rind, and
creamed butter, add the milk and bread alternately. See that the edge
of the dish is clean, then put it in a slow oven; when it is " set," that is,
so firm that it does not move when the dish is shaken, take it out and
let it cool, unless it is to be eaten hot. Half an hour before using it
beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, adding the fine sugar, and
enough of the lemon-juice to flavor it. Put this on the pudding in a
mass and smooth it over with a knife, or drop it from the spoon, leav-
ing an uneven surface, but covering the jelly; then brown it in the
upper part of the oven. To be eaten hot or cold.
DELMONICO PUDDING.
M. v. P.
One quart and one gill of milk.
One gill of corn-starch.
PUDDINGS. 419
Eight ounces of sugar.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
Five eggs.
Put the quart of milk in a two-quart basin that will fit in the top
of a saucepan, which must be two thirds full of boiling water. Beat
the yolks of the eggs and add five ounces of the sugar and the vanilla.
Mix the starch with the gill of milk, and stir it in the yolks and sugar;
when the milk has a froth or film over the top, pour it on the eggs, mix
well, then pour it in the basin over the boiling water, and stir until it is
thick as pound-cake batter, pour it in the dish in which it is to be
served, and when nearly cold make the meringue to cover it; beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, continue beating while you add the
remainder of the sugar. This may be put on the pudding in a mass,
and smoothed over with a knife, or dropped from the spoon and left in
little peaks over the top; but care must be taken that the pudding is
entirely concealed by the icing. Place it in a hot oven for a few min-
utes to brown, keeping close watch lest it burn. It must be served
cold; it is very good eaten alone, but with cream will be found most
delicious.
CHOCOLATE MERINGUE.
Two ounces of sweetened chocolate.
Three eggs, the whites whisked to a stiff froth.
Three ounces of sugar, to be beaten with the yolks.
Four tablespoonfuls of sugar added to the stiff whites.
Half a teaspoonful of vanilla.
Three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch.
One pint of milk.
Dissolve the corn-starch in two tablespoonfuls of the milk; put the
broken chocolate in a one-quart tin basin over boiling water, and nearly
420
IN THE KITCHEN.
cover it with some of the milk; as it heats, mash, dissolve, and stir it
until perfectly smooth; add the rest of the milk gradually, and when it
is scalding pour in the starch, and stir until it thickens; then add the
yolks and sugar, and stir until much thicker than boiled custard; set it
aside, and when a little cooled beat in the vanilla and pour it in a glass
dish. When cold, and just before serving, cover it with the meringue
(the whites of the eggs and sugar) dropped by spoonfuls and left
standing in peaks ; brown by holding a hot shovel over it.
SPONGE PUDDING.
One pint of milk.
Two ounces of butter.
Two ounces of flour.
Two ounces of sugar.
One teaspoonful of vanilla.
Three eggs.
Put the milk in a two-quart basin that will fit in the top of a sauce-
pan, one third full of boiling water. Rub the butter, flour, and sugar
well together, and stir the milk gradually with them; pour all in the
basin, and stir until it is a thick batter; then take it off and let it cool.
Beat the yolks well, and add them to the batter, then beat the whites to
a stiff froth, and mix them gently in ; pour it in a pudding-dish, place
it in a pan of water, and bake three quarters of an hour. To be eaten
hot with wine sauce.
PASTE PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
Three ounces of butter.
One gill of sugar.
PUDDINGS. 421
One gill of raisins.
Five eggs.
Mix one egg, slightly beaten in flour, as stiff as paste can be rolled;
roll very thin, and cut in narrow, cord-like strips, two or three inches
long. Put the butter and sugar into the milk and boil; when boiling
hot drop in the paste, which swells and rises to the top; then add the
raisins; grate nutmeg over the top, or flavor with vanilla, let the milk
cool, and then add the remainder of the eggs well beaten. Bake about
half an hour. The pudding should be creamy like soft custard and
the paste should not settle. Unless the milk is boiling hot when the
paste is added it will not be good. To be eaten hot or cold.
GERMAN PUFFS (For Dessert with Sauce.)
One pound of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
One pint of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
"Warm the milk, and melt the butter in it; beat the yolks of the
eggs very light, and when the milk is so cool that it will not cook the
eggs, stir it in; add the salt and flour; whisk the whites of the eggs
to a stiff froth; mix them gently in the batter. Bake in patty-pans or
gem-pans.
JIM CROW.
Maryland.
Put New Orleans molasses in a frying-pan and let it boil until
thickened, Avhen it should be half an inch deep; slice bread as for the
table, remove the crust, and cut in squares or oblong pieces; butter, and
422 IN THE KITCHEN.
lay them in the boiling molasses, and let them become crisp ; take them
from the syrup, pile on a platter, and serve hot. No sauce is required.
JENNY LINDS.
Two gills of flour.
Two gills of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One egg.
Beat the egg thoroughly, add half of the milk, the salt, and the
flour; beat well, then stir in the rest of the milk. Bake in patty pans,
and serve with a liquid sauce.
PAIN PERDU.
Half a pound of bread.
Half a pint of boiling milk.
Three tablespoonfuls of sugar.
The rind of half a lemon.
One egg.
Grated bread.
Put the milk, lemon-peel, and sugar over boiling water. Cut the
bread in slices two thirds of an inch thick, and cut off the crust evenly
and divide the slice in two or three regular pieces ; lay them in a milk-
pan, or on any surface so large that they need not lie one upon the
other, and pour the milk over them; in a few minutes turn the pieces,
then let them stand half an hour or more; beat the egg in a saucer,
dip a piece of the bread in it, and then in the bread crumbs, lay
it in the frying-basket and sink it in hot lard. Serve in a platter
on a napkin, standing in two rows, two or three inches apart, ancj
PUDDINGS. 423
meeting at the top like a miniature roof. To be eaten with a liquid
wine sauce
LEMON DUMPLINGS.
Half a pound of grated bread.
. Quarter of a pound of suet chopped fine.
Quarter of a pound of sugar.
One lemon; squeeze the juice on the sugar, and chop the rest very-
fine.
One large apple (Spitzenberg or Greening) grated.
Two even tablespoonfuls of flour.
Three well-beaten eggs.
Mix all thoroughly together, tie in square pieces of cotton cloth,
drop in boiling water, and boil three quarters of an hour, with a tin
plate under them to prevent their sticking to the kettle. This quantity
makes eight dumplings. Serve with " Fairy Butter " made with brown
sugar.
APPLE FRITTERS.
One and a quarter pounds of flour.
One and a half pints of milk.
Four eggs.
Beat the yolks very light, add the milk and flour; whisk the
whites to a stiff froth, and stir them in very gently. Peel and core the
apples, cut them in two and slice them across, and as you fry the frit-
ters, put a piece in the spoonful of batter; if preferred, the apple may
be chopped fine and scattered in the batter just before frying. Fry in
lard an inch and a half deep in the frying-pan.
For convenience' sake, this batter may be mixed in the morning.
It keeps three days in cold weather.
424 IN THE KITCHEN.
COaUETTES.
One ounce of butter.
One pint of flour.
One pint of boiling water.
Five eggs.
Put the flour in a saucepan and throw the water over it, mixing
well ; put it on the fire, and when the flour is well cooked take it off
and cool, then beat in the eggs one by one. Drop the batter in bits
two thirds the size of an egg, in deep hot lard, and when done serve
like fritters. The batter requires a great deal of hard beating, both
before and when the eggs are put in; but the coquettes are so beautiful
and delicious one is repaid for all the trouble of making them.
SOTJZENS.
Mrs. Fairchild.
Half a pound of flour.
Half a pound of butter.
One pint of water.
Twelve eggs.
Put the water in a saucepan; when it boils add the butter and let
it boil a minute or two, then add the flour, stirring hard all the time, and
•let It remain a few moments to cook thoroughly; then take it from the
.'fire, and break in the eggs, one by one, beating very hard. Bake in
little patty-pans well greased, for fifteen or twenty minutes. The oven
should not be opened while they are baking.
These cakes are eaten cold for dessert, with fresh fruit and cream,
or with sweetmeats.
PUDDINGS. 425
FRITTERS A LA FOLILE.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
Quarter of a pound of white sugar.
One pint of flour.
One pint of water.
Half a vanilla bean.
Five eggs.
Split the bean and put it in a saucepan with the water, butter, and
sugar; when they boil mix in the flour very smoothly. Take it from
the fire, and when cool remove the bean, add the eggs, one at a time,
beating very hard. Fry the fritters by dropping the batter in small
quantities in deep, hot lard; they puff beautifully and are delicious.
Serve with sugar sifted over them. They are eaten without sauce.
These may be made with but three eggs, or with six.
INDIAN FRITTERS.
One pint of meal.
One pint of milk.
Two gills of flour.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Beat the yolks very light, add the milk, salt, meal, and flour; beat
hard, then whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them
very lightly through the batter. Fry in lard an inch and a half deep in
the frying-pan.
426 IN THE KITCHEN.
POTATO FRITTERS.
Three quarters of a pound of potato puree.
One ounce of flour.
Two ounces of butter.
Three ounces of sugar.
The juice and grated rind of half a lemon.
Two eggs.
"While the potato is warm mix the butter with it; add the sugar,
butter, lemon, and flour; break the eggs over these ingredients, and
beat the whole until very light; fry in lard barely deep enough to
cover them in a frying-pan. Serve them piled on a platter and sprinkled
with sugar.
BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.
Pour three pints of scalding milk on one pint and one gill of corn-
meal; stir well, add half a pint of molasses, half a pint of chopped
suet, one and a half even teaspoonfuls of salt, and two well-beaten
eggs. Dip the bag in cold water, wring it dry, and spread thinly with
lard or butter; pour in the batter, and tie the bag very tight, leaving
room for the pudding to swell about one fourth; plunge it in boiling
water, and keep it boiling, turning the pudding occasionally, from three
to four hours. To be eaten with a maple syrup sauce.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 427
428 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOB ADDITIONAL BECJSIFTS. 429
430 FOB ADDITIONAL BEOEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 431
432 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC. 433
SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, Etc.
From the current receipts I have adopted I do not reject wine nor, in many cases,
brandy; but am happy to be able to give substitutes for them, which, although they do not im-
part so fine a flavor, have, nevertheless, the merit of being attended with no danger of harm.
FAIRY BUTTER.
Four ounces of butter.
Five ounces of powdered sugar.
The grated rind and juice of half a lemon.
Cream the butter thoroughly, and add the sugar gradually, beating
hard and fast, until it is so light that a million fairies may nestle in its
cells ; add the lemon, and beat three minutes more. To be served piled,
as it falls from the spoon, — not smoothed for all the world, for that
would seal the hiding-places.
GOLDEN SAUCE.
Four ounces of butter.
Seven ounces of powdered sugar.
One gill of wine.
Two gills of cream.
Half a nutmeg.
The yolks of six eggs.
Scald the cream in a two-quart basin over boiling water; beat the
butter, sugar, and eggs together; add the nutmeg, pour the hot cream
28
434: IN THE KITCHEN.
over them, then pour all in the basin over the boiling water, add the
wine, and stir until it thickens.
CREAM SAUCE.
One pint of cream, three ounces of brown sugar, and half a small
nutmeg grated.
WINE SAUCE.
Hagerstown, Md.
One pint of sugar, half a pint of softened butter beaten to a froth;
boil two gills of wine with one gill of water, and pour them boiling on
the sugar and butter, stirring fast. Nutmeg to taste. A gill of sweet
cream stirred in after the wine, is an improvement.
WINE SAUCE.
Maryland.
The yolks of two eggs beaten with four tablespoonfuls of brown
sugar and a quarter of a pound of butter. "When thoroughly mixed
put on the stove and stir until it thickens ; add half a gill of wine.
MAPLE SUGAR SAUCE.
Half a pound of maple sugar.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
Half a gill of hot water.
Crack the sugar in very small bits, that it may dissolve quickly ; let
it simmer a few moments until clear; take it from the fire, and stir in
the butter cut small; pour it in the sauce-boat, and serve.
SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC. 435
REXFORD SAUCE.
Rub two ounces of butter with an even tablespoonful of flour; stir
in half a pint of bvown sugar and half a gill of boiled cider; add a gill
of boiling water, mix well, let it simmer a few moments, then serve hot.
ALMOND SAUCE.
Blanch and pound one and a half ounces of sweet almonds and four
bitter almonds ; put them in a saucepan with half a pint of cream and
one and a quarter ounces of sugar; add the yolks of two eggs well
beaten, and stir over boiling water until of the right consistency. It
may be flavored with extract of bitter almond, if more convenient.
LEMON SAUCE.
Cream two ounces of butter, and stir in half a pint of powdered
sugar, the juice and grated rind of half a lemon, a tablespoonful of
flour, and one egg; beat all well together until very light, then add a
gill of boiling water. If not as thick as liked, it may be stirred over
the fire for a short time.
SAUCE WITH NEITHER BUTTER NOR CREAM.
Two eggs.
Half a pint of fine sugar.
Half a gill of milk.
Flavoring to the taste.
Place the milk over boiling water; when scalding put in the sugar
and yolks beaten together, and stir until thick as boiled custard; set it
aside, and when cool add the flavoring; just before serving whisk the
whites to a stiff froth, and mix them lightly through the sauce.
436 IN THE KITCHEN.
CREAMY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
Half a pound of brown sugar.
Four ounces of butter,
Four tablespoonfuls of sweet cream.
One lemon, or wine to flavor.
Take a two-quart bowl * for beating the sauce, as that saves all
anxiety as to its going over the edge. Stir the butter to a cream, with
a small wooden spoon, add by degrees the sugar and cream, beating
them until very light, then the juice and grated rind of a lemon, or wine
to the taste. Place the bowl in the top of a kettle, one third or half full
of boiling water; when melted to a thick, creamy froth set it aside, but
keep it hot until required.
HOME SYRUP FOR BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
Some of the tempting amber syrups so often seen during the season
of buckwheat cakes are said to be very deleterious. In corn-starch fac-
tories the refuse is made into syrup by the chemical action of strong
sulphuric acid, and such syrup is said to be very injurious to the teeth
and stomach. This acid may be detected in syrup by putting a little
of it in half a cup of strong black tea which has been boiled; it will
turn it black. Pure and delicious syrups are easily made. Pour half
a pint of boiling water on one pound of sugar, either the white crushed,
or the sparkling, yellow sugar; put it on the fire, boil, and skim thor-
oughly, then bottle and cork.
MAPLE SYRUP MADE FROM THE SUGAR.
One pound of maple sugar.
Two gills of boiling water.
SAUCES FOE PUDDINGS, ETC. 437
Cut the sugar in bits, and put it in a saucepan with the water; let
it dissolve without boiling, then boil and skim. When cold, it is ready
for the table.
CARAMEL FOE CUSTARDS.
One and a half pounds of moist, brown sugar.
Half a pint of hot water.
Put half a pound of the sugar in a small iron frying-pan or in a
small iron kettle (one with a rounding bottom is more convenient) , let
it heat gradually, then stir it with a knife or flat stick until it is melted
and like a smooth batter; the color should be but slightly changed;
add the water by slow degrees, mixing thoroughly; let it simmer a few
minutes, while you scrape down the sugar that adheres to the sides of
the kettle; then stir in the pound of sugar, and when dissolved let it
boil and become clear; place it on the ice, and when chilled it is ready
to pour over a cold steamed custard, turned from the mould.
SUGARS.
For baked custard, For all light-colored cakes,
mmce pie,
squash pie,
fruit-cake,
gingerbread,
most Indian puddings,
icing,
floating-island,
blanc-mange,
Meringues,
whips,
use brown sugar. use powdered sugar.
For pudding sauce, use powdered or brown sugar.
For sweetmeats, jelly, and raspberry vinegar, use granulated
sugar.
4:38 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
2TOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
439
440 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
DISHES FOR DESSEBT. 441
DISHES FOR DESSERT.
BLANC-MANGE.
One ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
Five ounces of sugar.
One quart of cream.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
Cover the isinglass with a pint or more of cold water, and let it
stand two hours. If shred gelatine is used put it in a tea-cup, cover
with three fourths of a gill of cold water, and soak it one hour; it
absorhs the water. Sweeten and flavor the cream; take the isinglass
from the water, lay it for a moment in a towel, and then melt it thor-
oughly in a tin cup over boiling water; stir it in the cream, wet the
moulds, pour it in, and place on the ice.
Blanc-mange may be colored green with spinach-juice and pink
with scoke-berry. Half-pint moulds are very pretty made in this way:
Tilt the moulds in a pan of snow or pounded ice ; color one fourth of
the blanc-mange a pretty pink and another fourth a bright green; wet
the moulds and pour a little in each, coming nearly to the top of the
mould, and not covering more than two thirds of the bottom. Keep
the uncolored blanc-mange in so warm a place that it will not harden,
and when the pink and green are stiff, place the moulds upright, and
fill them with the white.
If the design of the mould is in fruit or roses, the fruit may be
green and the roses pink; if in corn, some of the blanc-mange may be
colored yellow by adding a little saffron.
442 IN" THE KITCHEN".
EUGENIE BLANC-MANGE.
Five ounces of sugar.
Three ounces or three heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch.
One quart of milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
A pinch of salt.
The whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Put the milk over boiling water with the salt and sugar; mix the
corn-starch with three tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and when the quart
of milk is hot pour it in, and stir until it is a thick batter. Have the
eggs beaten to a stiff froth, pour the hot corn-starch on them, and mix
well; add the vanilla, pour in moulds wet with cold water, and place
them on ice. In serving, turn it from the mould, and pour around it
this custard.
Put one pint of milk in a basin over boiling water; mix in a tea-
cup, two even teaspoonfuls of corn-starch with two of cold milk; beat
in the four yolks and two and a half ounces of sugar; when the milk
is hot pour part of it in the cup and stir well ; pour it back in the
basin, and stir until thick as desired. Put it on the ice to chill thor-
oughly.
FARINA BLANC-MANGE.
One quart of new milk.
Three ounces of farina.
A quarter of a teaspoonful of salt.
Put the milk over boiling water, having reserved a few spoonfuls
in which to mix the farina; when there is a film over the milk add the
farina and salt, and stir until it is quite a thick batter; then pour in a
DISHES FOR DESSERT. 443
mould rinsed with cold water. To be eaten cold with sugar and cream,
or boiled custard.
SAGO BLANC-MANGE.
Half a pint of pearl sago, boiled in one quart of milk, or milk and
water, until perfectly soft, then stir in two well-beaten eggs, and pour
it into a mould wet with cold water. It may be eaten warm with
" Fairy Butter " ; if preferred cold, boil the rind of half a lemon with
the sago, and when soft add four ounces of sugar.
OSWEGO BLANC-MANGE.
Three ounces or one and a half gills of corn-starch.
One quart of milk.
One gill of sugar.
One quarter of a teaspoonful of salt.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
Put the milk, lacking one gill, with which the corn-starch must be
mixed, over boiling water; when scalding add the starch, salt, and
sugar, and stir until it is a smooth, thick batter; let it remain over the
boiling water for five minutes, then beat in the vanilla, pour it in a
mould wet with cold water, and leave it to cool. To be served cold,
with sugar and cream.
RICE IN MOULDS.
Quarter of a pound of rice.
One pint of cold water.
One pint of new milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
Wash the rice thoroughly, rubbing it between the hands in several
waters; pour off the water and put it in a saucepan with the pint of
444
IN THE KITCHEK.
water and the salt; coyer, and let it boil until holes come in the top;
add the milk, and keep it covered for ten minutes; stir occasionally,
being careful not to break the grains, and let it boil moderately until
the milk is thick enough to prevent the rice from settling. When you
think it is done set it for a moment on the table, stir it up thoroughly,
but gently; then, if the rice settles, it requires more boiling; if suffi-
ciently cooked, let it cool in the saucepan for ten or fifteen minutes;
there should be a creamy substance around every grain, and the form,
when taken from the mould, should be barely stiff enough to stand.
This quantity will fill a mould holding a pint and a half; wet the mould
in cold water, fill, and place it on the ice. It may be eaten with sugar,
cream, and a little nutmeg. It may also be served in two half-pint
forms on a platter, with rich custard an inch deep around them.
When properly prepared, there can hardly be a nicer dessert than
this; but it is so often a miserable failure, an unpalatable, stiff mass,
that one might cut with a knife, or uncooked rice, with milk oozing
from it, that I have taken great pains to learn the exact proportions
and mode of preparation.
As the rice is first boiled in water, it may be boiled in the milk
without the precaution of putting the saucepan over water; but it re-
quires watching.
RICE A LA MARQUISE.
Boil rice after the above rule, with the addition of three ounces of
sugar; fill the mould and chill it thoroughly in ice. When served,
pour over and around it vanilla ice-cream, which has been stirred and
thawed to the consistency of a very thick batter.
DISHES FOR DESSERT. 445
SWEETHEART. .
Boil rice as above; fill the mould about one fifth its depth; let
this and the rice that remains in the saucepan become nearly cold; then
put eeveral layers of rich sweetmeats, from which the syrup has been
drained, in the centre of the mould, leaving the space of an inch all
around it; this space must be filled evenly with rice from the saucepan;
and above the sweetmeats there must be a layer of rice an inch deep;
place the mould on the ice. When the form is turned from the mould it
is snowy white, giving no suspicion of its contents.
GELBE SFEISE.
Half a pound of sugar.
One ounce of gelatine.
Two ounces of thinly sliced citron.
Two ounces of stoned raisins.
One large lemon.
The yolks of nine eggs.
The whites of five eggs.
Soak the gelatine two hours or overnight in one quart of cold
water, and under a slight weight to prevent its floating; when it is
soaked beat the yolks of the eggs, and add to them the sugar, with the
juice and grated rind of the lemon. Take the gelatine from the water,
put it in a two-quart tin pail, and pour over it one pint of boiling water;
add the sugar and yolks in this way: stir with them half the contents
of the pail, then put the spoon in the pail and stir while you pour it
back again; put the pail in a kettle of hot water on the fire, and stir
Until it is as thick as boiled custard; put it in a cold place, and when
it has become like thick batter beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth, and add them with the fruit. Beat all thoroughly together, and
446 IN" THE KITCHEN.
pour in moulds that have been wet in cold water. This quantity fills
two pint-moulds. The rece'ipt for this dish, sent from Vienna, gives
no directions for cutting the raisins and citron. I have tried the
raisins whole and the citron in large slices, and have also tried them
both finely cut. The latter is more palatable, the former, more showy.
WHIPPED CREAM.
One pint of thin cream.
One and a quarter gills of fine sugar.
One gill of wine.
Mix the ingredients in a large bowl, and churn with the whip-churn ;
as the froth rises skim it off into the dish in(which it is to be served,
until the dish is full and the froth rises above the top. The top of the
cream may be ornamented with kisses, or macaroons.
ORANGE CREAM.
Three gills of cream.
Two gills of sugar.
One gill of orange-juice.
The grated rind of one orange.
Half an ounce of Cox's gelatine.
The yolks of two eggs.
Soak the gelatine half an hour in half a gill of cold water; soak the
orange-rind half an hour in the orange-juice; melt the gelatine in the
basin in which it was soaked, over boiling water, add the juice and rind,
and when quite hot the yolks beaten with the sugar; stir until it
thickens, add the cream, and strain into a mould wet with cold water.
To be served cold.
DISHES FOR DESSERT. 447
COFFEE CREAM.
Half an ounce of Cox's gelatine.
One gill of strong coffee.
One gill of sugar.
Three gills of cream.
Soak the gelatine half an hour in half a gill of cold water, then
place it over boiling water and add the hot coffee and sugar; when dis-
solved, take it from the fire, stir in the cold cream, and strain it in a
mould that has been wet with cold water.
CHOCOLATE CREAM.
Mix together two ounces of scraped chocolate, three eggs, four
ounces of sugar, and a pint of milk; stir over boiling water until of a
smooth and creamy consistency. Toast slices of any light, common
cake, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the hot cream over them.
RUSSIAN CREAM
One quart of milk.
Five ounces of sugar.
One ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
Four eggs.
Soak the isinglass two hours in cold water; put the milk in a two-
quart basin in the top of a saucepan two thirds full of boiling water;
beat the yolks of the eggs and add the sugar. When the milk is
scalded pour it on the eggs and sugar, stirring them together; return
it to the basin, drain the isinglass, put it with the milk, and stir until it
thickens; add the vanilla, and when cold and partly stiffened whisk
443
IN THE KITCHEN.
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and beat them thoroughly through
the custard; pour in moulds rinsed with cold water, and place them on
the ice. When ready to serve, loosen the edge, lay a small platter over
the mould, and turn it upside down; shake the mould if the cream does
not come out easily, but be careful to keep it in the centre of the
platter.
BAVARIAN CREAM.
One quart of cream.
Five ounces of sugar.
One ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla or half a vanilla bean.
The yolks of four eggs.
Soak the isinglass two hours in cold water; make a custard (see p.
461) of a pint of the cream and the yolks of the eggs, drain the water
from the isinglass, and stir it in the hot custard before it is taken from
the fire. While the custard is cooling whip the other pint of the cream
to a froth, laying it on a sieve. When the custard is perfectly cold and
quite thick, stir in the whipped cream gradually; beat all well together,
pour in moulds, and set on the ice.
FRUIT CREAM.
A rich cream blanc-mange, poured over sweetmeats in a glass
dish.
EGLANTINE.
One ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
Five ounces of sugar.
One quart of milk.
DISHES FOR DESSERT. M9
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla or one of rose-water.
Four eggs.
Soak the isinglass two hours in cold water; put the milk to boil
over hot water; beat the eggs, add the sugar When there is a froth or
scum over the milk, pour it on the eggs, stirring them together; put
them over the boiling water, add the isinglass drained from the water?
and stir until it thickens; flavor, pour in moulds, and set them on the
ice.
ALMOND CREAM.
One pint of milk.
One pint of cream
Five ounces of sugar.
Three ounces of sweet almonds.
A quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds.
One ounce of isinglass.
The yolks of two eggs.
Cover the isinglass with cold water, and soak two hours; blanch
the almonds and pound them to a smooth paste, adding a few drops of
milk, now and then, to prevent their oiling; put the milk over boiling
water with a small bit of lemon-peel and let it scald for ten minutes;
beat the yolks and pour the hot milk on them, add the almonds, and
rub and press the whole through a sieve; add the sugar and cream, take
the isinglass from the water, melt it, and stir it in. Rinse moulds with
cold water, strain the cream into them, and place on ice.
VANILLA CREAM RENVERSEE.
One pint of cream.
Two and a half ounces of sugar.
29
450 IN" THE KITCHEN".
One and a half teaspoonfuls of vanilla or half a vanilla bean.
One egg and the yolks of six.
Put the cream over boiling1 water to scald; if the bean is used,
split it and lay it in the cream; beat the eggs, add the sugar, and when
the cream is ready stir it in and scrape in it the seeds from the bean,
removing the pod. Butter a mould that holds about one and a half
pints; pour in the cream, and place it in a deep saucepan, with hot
water about two thirds the depth of the mould; cover the saucepan,
and place it where it will be hot as possible without boiling. By shak-
ing the mould, and touching the cream with the finger, you will know
when it is stiffened. Leave it in the mould until served, when it must
be thoroughly chilled. Turn it from the mould on a platter or a shallow
glass dish and pour over it a rich vanilla custard, or a caramel. (See
page 437.) .
GINGER CREAM.
Two ounces of preserved ginger, cut in small thin pieces.
Half an ounce of isinglass.
One pint of cream.
One tablespoonful of sugar.
Two and a half tablespoonfuls of ginger syrup.
The yolks of three eggs.
Soak the isinglass two hours in cold water; put the cream in a
basin over boiling water; beat the eggs, and when the milk is scalding
hot, pour it on them; stir, and.return it to the basin, where it must be
stirred until it thickens. Take the isinglass from the water, melt it, and
add it to the cream. In cooling stir the cream occasionally, and when
it has become so thick as to prevent the ginger from settling, wet the
moulds, and pour it in. Place on the ice. To be eaten with or with-
out cream.
DISHES FOR DESSERT. 451
CARAMEL CREAM.
LOCHLAND.
One ounce of brown sugar.
One pint of cream.
Half a gill of caramel (page 437).
One egg, and the yolks of three.
Scald the cream, add the caramel, beat the eggs, stir in the hot
cream, and add the sugar; pour in a buttered mould, place it m a
saucepan with hot water about two thirds the depth of the mould;
cover both the mould and saucepan, keep the water as near boiling as
possible; when stiffened let it cool, then place it on the ice. It should
be made several hours before it is required. It may be served on a
platter with a vanilla custard poured around it, or it may be placed on
a fringed napkin, and eaten with cream.
ARROWROOT IN A MOULD, WITH MACAROONS.
Two ounces of arrowroot.
Two and a half ounces of sugar.
Two ounces of candied fruit.
Half a pint of cream.
Half a pint of milk.
One dozen macaroons.
Put the cream and one half of the milk over boiling water; mix
the arrowroot smooth in the rest of the milk, add the sugar and vanilla,
and when the cream is hot, stir them in; cook until thick as mush; stir in
the fruit, which, if larger than cherries, should be cut. Pour in a mould
wet with cold water. When cold, turn it out and ornament with whole
macaroons; they adhere easily and may be arranged to suit the fancy,
4f>2 EST THE KITCHEN".
either over the entire mould or in one or two diagonal rows across, r...
Serve on a platter with thick boiled custard poured around it. Wnarf
milk is used instead of cream add one ounce of butter.
HAMBURG CREAM.
Three quarters of a pound of sugar.
Three lemons.
♦Ten eggs.
Stir the grated rind of the lemons, the juice and sugar rtv^he* ;
beat the yolks of the eggs in a saucepan that will fit over another - ,1
which there must be boiling water; add the lemon and sugar; beat t\ e
whites to a stiff froth, then put the yolks, etc., over the boiling v/att r,
and stir until as thick as boiled custard; pour it hot on the whites, be it
well, and place on the ice. Serve in glasses.
TAPIOCA CREAM.
Two ounces of tapioca, soaked over night in one gill of cold wa' zr.
Boil one quart of milk, add the tapioca, let it boil; add the yulks
of three eggs, beaten with half a pint of crushed sugar; boil, and stir
until like thick custard; season and pour in the dish; when cold, cover
with the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth with four tablespoon-
fuls of sugar. Brown lightly. To be eaten cold.
ITALIAN CREAM.
One quart of rich, sweet cream.
Seven ounces of fine sugar.
Half an ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
The grated rind and juice of two lemons.
DISHES FOK DESSEET. 453
Break the isinglass, and soak it two hours in half a pint of cold
water; mix the lemon-rind and juice with the sugar, then add the cream,
and leave it in a cold place for an hour; strain it through a sieve-, and
beat it with an egg-beater until thick, but not stiff. It is well to do
this in a large pitcher which can be kept partly covered, and so save
much spattering. Take the isinglass from the water, dry it slightly in
a towel, put it in a bowl in the top of the boiling tea-kettle, and let
it dissolve, stirring occasionally, then cool, and beat it in the cream;
pour it in wet moulds, and place on the ice. Allow three hours for
stiffening.
LEMON CREAM.
One pint of warm water.
Three lemons.
Six eggs.
Throw the thin yellow rind of two of the lemons into the water
with the juice of the three, and sugar to taste. As lemons vary in size
and in juiciness, the exact quantity of sugar cannot be given. Ordinary-
lemons require three gills. It will be quite safe to begin with that
quantity; more can easily be added.- Beat the whites to a dry froth,
then the yolks, and beat both together; pour in gradually, while beat-
ing, the other ingredients; put all in a basin over boiling water, and
stir until thick as boiled custard; strain it in a pitcher; when cool,
place on the ice. Serve in glasses.
RENNET IN WINE.
Cut a fresh or dried rennet in strips two inches long and half an
inch wide; if a dried rennet is used it must be soaked until it has no
taste of the salt which was used in drying. Put the pieces in a quart
454 FN" THE KITCHEN.
bottle and fill it with sherry; in two or three days it will be ready to
use. "When the wine is exhausted the bottle may be filled again and
again.
SLIP.
"Warm to about blood-heat a quart of fresh milk with a gill of fine
sugar ; have ready in. a cup two tablespoonfuls of the rennet wine (see
above rule) and a teaspoonful of vanilla ; pour the milk in the dish in
which it is to be served; place the thermometer in it, and when it has
fallen to 94° pour in the rennet and stir gently to mix it ; then leave it,
and it will stiffen in a few minutes, when it may be placed on ice until
wanted. If preferred, it may be poured in cups with a little nutmeg
grated over the top. After a little experience the thermometer may be
dispensed with, and the temperature of the milk tested by the finger.
Liquid rennet can be bought, and is very good, but in using it the milk
requires more flavoring than with the rennet wine.
LEMON CHEESE.
One pound of loaf sugar.
Quarter of a pound of butter.
The juice of three lemons and the grated rind of two.
Six eggs, leaving out the whites of two.
Put all in a saucepan and stir gently over a slow fire until the
mixture becomes thick and looks like honey. It will keep a year if
closely tied and kept in a cool place. It may also be baked in small
patty -pans lined with pastry ; these are often kept for many weeks,
and reheated when used.
DISHES FOK DESSERT. 4:55
CHARLOTTE RUSSE.
One quart of cream.
One pint of milk.
One ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
Six ounces of sugar.
Half a vanilla bean.
Four eggs.
Sponge cake.
Cover the isinglass with cold water, place a slight weight upon it
to prevent its floating, and let it soak two hours. Line moulds with
thin strips of sponge cake, sticking the edges together with the white
of egg ; if liked, the strips may be from both the outside and inside of
the cake, arranged in alternate bands of yellow and brown. Scald the
milk over boiling water, beat the yolks and add the sugar, pour the hot
milk on them, take the isinglass from the water, and lay it in the hot
custard ; then stir the whole over the boiling water until a little thick-
ened and put it aside to cool. Whip the cream in a deep bowl, and lay
the J'roth on the shallow side of the sieve. Iteturn to the bowl the
cream that has drained from the sieve, and whip as much of it as pos-
sible ; the little that cannot be whipped may be added to the custard.
When the custard is not only cool, but quite thick, beat it very
thoroughly with the whipped cream ; then pour it in the moulds and
place on ice.
BEATEN CREAM.
Place a five-quart bowl in a pan of pounded ice ; pour in it a pint
of rich cream much thicker than that used at table ; beat it with an egg-
beater or spoon half an hour, or until thick and stiff; then sift in, beat-
ing gently, a gill of powdered sugar and half a teaspoonful of vanilla,
456 IX THE KITCHEN.
or as little as will flavor it. This may be used with sponge-cake for
charlotte russe, and for cream cakes and eclairs; it is also very good
over a cold pudding with small bits of fresh pineapple, stiff currant-
jelly, or stewed citron stirred in lightly; or cut the citron in strips one
fourth as large around as a common lead-pencil and an inch long, and
when the cream is spread over the pudding, stick them in the top a la
porcupine. Use the Dover Egg-Beater for beating the cream.
APPLE MEBINGUE.
Pare, quarter, and stew sour apples, rub them through the col-
ander, season with sugar and lemon ; fill a dish one third full with this :
For a large dish take the whites of six eggs, for a small one, three or
four; beat them to a stiff froth, season with lemon and sugar, spread
it over the apple, and brown lightly. To be eaten cold with custard or
cream. Rich stewed prunes, left whole, make a delightful meringue.
TAPIOCA AND APPLES.
Soak half a pint of tapioca several hours, or overnight, in half a
pint of cold water; cover the bottom of a baking-dish with cored sour
apples; fill them with sugar, and bake until tender and well browned.
Put the tapioca on the fire with the rind of a lemon, cut thin, and
half a pint of cold water; when boiling add another half pint of
boiling water, a gill of sugar, and the juice of the lemon; boil a
moment, pour it over the apples, and bake half an hour, or longer.
TAPIOCA AND CANNED PEACHES.
Soak half a pint of tapioca several hours, or overnight, in half a
pint of cold water. Fill a baking-dish about two thirds its depth with
the peaches taken from the syrup, sprinkle with sugar, and bake from
DISHES FOR DESSERT. 457
twenty to thirty minutes; add half a pint of peach syrup to the tapioca,
and when it boils add one gill of boiling water and one gill of sugar;
when clear pour it over the peaches and bake slowly for half an hour.
If eaten cold, serve with sugar and cream; if hot, with f? Fairy Butter."
CHANTILLY CAKE.
Bake a cake in a mould; when cold take a very sharp knife, and
cut out the centre, leaving a crust of an inch or more on the sides and
bottom; throw in half a gill of wine; then put in a layer of preserved
fruit, and fill with cold boiled custard ; put whipped cream over the
top.
AMBROSIA.
Hampton.
One pound of sponge cake.
Two ounces of almonds.
One pint of boiled custard, hot.
Half a pint of preserved fruits.
Prepare the nuts, of which there may be two or three kinds, blanch
and shred the almonds, drain the fruit from the syrup; it must be rich
preserved fruit, and may be of various kinds, including a little ginger.
Slice the cake, lay it in a shallow dish, and pour the custard over
it. When cold, wet two smooth forms or bowls, holding about one
pint each; put in a layer of cake, a sprinkling of shred almonds, and
bits of fruit, then another layer of cake, almonds, and fruit, and cover
with cake. Let it stand on ice for an hour, then serve.
SHELDINA.
Line a dish with sponge cake and fill it with a cold boiled vanilla
custard, made of six yolks and two whites of eggs; lay slices of cake
458 IN THE KITCHEN.
over the top, beat the four whites to a stiff froth, sweeten, flavor with
lemon, cover the cake with it, brown in the oven, and serve cold.
GLUTTON PLACE TRIFLE.
One pint of boiled custard.
Two gills of wine.
Two ounces of sugar.
The whites of six eggs.
The juice of half a lemon.
Preserved strawberries.
Sponge cake.
Take a glass dish holding about three pints and line it with slices
of the cake; cover with a thin coating of boiled custard, then a layer of
the strawberries, another of cake, custard, and fruit; then cover with
cake. Pour the wine over the whole; beat the whites of the eggs to a
stiff froth, and add the sugar and lemon-juice, then put it in peaks over
the entire dish.
SNOW DRIFT.
One pint of milk.
Two strips or one half ounce of isinglass.
Ten ounces of crushed sugar.
Five eggs.
The juice of two large lemons.
Soak the isinglass two hours, or overnight, in a quart of cold water,
with a little weight to keep it from rising; take it from the cold water
and pour over it one pint of boiling water; add the sugar and lemon-
juice; put it on the ice; when partly stiffened beat the whites of four
eggs to a stiff froth; beat all thoroughly together, pour it in moulds
DISHES FOR DESSERT. 459
wot with cold water, and place them on the ice. Serve with a boiled
custard, made of the four yolks and one egg, and the milk.
RUBY UNDER THE SNOW.
Half a pint of tapioca.
Half a pint of currant-jelly.
One and a half pints of cold water.
Four ounces of sugar.
Two teaspoonfuls of scoke-berry syrup.
The rind and juice of one lemon.
Soak the tapioca overnight in half a pint of water; add the lemon-
rind, cut like an apple-paring, and the pint of water; let it simmer until
clear, take out the lemon, and stir in all the other ingredients; let it
simmer a few moments, then pour it in a large pudding-dish or in two
small glass dishes; when cold, cover it with either of the following
snows : the stiff-beaten whites of four eggs with three ounces of sugar,
added gradually, and flavored with a little fresh lemon; or one pint of
thick, sweet cream with two and a half ounces of sugar mixed with a
little lemon-juice, and beaten until stiff. The ruby should be ice-cold
when covered, and may then be returned to the ice for half an hour.
NESSLERODE PUDDING, OR PLUM PUDDING GLACE.
Take a tin mould of whatever size may be desired, with a perfectly
tight-fitting cover; cut the entire crust from bakers' sponge cake, slice
it in pieces about half an inch thick, and soak them in wine; fit a layer
of this in the bottom of the mould and cover it with a single layer of
fruit, put in bit by bit; raisins and currants may be used with preserved,
candied, or brandied fruits; cover this with cake, and so on until the
4G0
IN THE KITCHEN.
cake is nearly even with the top of the mould, having the upper layer
of fruit; leave a little space between the pile of cake and the sides of
the mould. Have ready a rich chocolate custard; dissolve in it two even
tablespoonfuls of gelatine, having soaked it for half an hour; allow this
much to a quart of custard. When the custard is cold, fill the mould
with it, cover it tight, and pack it in a tub of salt and ice jjrepared as for
freezing ice-cream ; leave it undisturbed for ten or twelve hours ; when
the pudding is taken from the mould pour over it a pint of whipped
cream. This makes a beautiful and delicious dish for the dinner or
supper table.
CROUIADE OF MACABOONS.
Dissolve half an ounce of gum-arabic in two tablespoonfuls of
boiling water, then stir in one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and
let it simmer very slowly until almost stiff. Butter the outside of a
plain tin mould, and turn it upside down on a plate; put a weight on
the top to keep it firm; cover it with macaroons, beginning at the
lower part; stick them together with the gum-arabic; when one row is
formed, a string may be tied around to keep it in place until dry; then
make another row, sticking the macaroons together, and to the first
row. When finished and dry, it may be placed over a mould of ice-
cream, or may be filled with whipped cream, or with floating island.
If difficult to cover the entire mould, a cover may be made by
sticking five macaroons around one, and when dry it may be placed
over the top of the mould. If preferred, the cream or island may rise
in a peak above the macaroons, in which case it requires no cover.
Since writing the above I have tried the Dover Bgg-Beater for
beating cream to the consistency of Charlotte Russe, and am happy to
say that it works like a charm. There is but little, if any, spattering,
and the cream becomes thick in far less time than with the ordinary
beater.
CUSTARDS. 461
CU8TAEDS.
It requires great care to make a nice boiled custard, because of its liability to curdle. I
used to consider a curdled custard '' a hopeless case." Trying my hand one day in Berlin, to
my despair, the custard assumed that most alarming appearance. Frau Friedel seeing my
dilemma, cried out, " Der quirl, der quirll " Of this I knew nothing, and had no faith that
anything less than a miracle could restore the beautiful smoothness of the milk. " Der quirl"
however, was brought, and with a few twirls between the palms of the brisk little Frau, proved
itself a magic wand " to make the rough places smooth." It is a stick some twelve or fourteen
inches long with a wooden end, resembling a churn-dasher, about five inches in circumference.
It is used by the Germans in preparing chocolate and in mixing puddings. It may also be
used in making salad dressing of egg and hot vinegar.
BOILED CUSTAUD, NO. L
One quart of milk.
Five ounces of sugar.
Eight eggs, leaving out the whites of six.
Two teaspoonfuls of extract of vanilla or half a vanilla bean.
A pinch of salt.
Select a saucepan, in the top of which a two-quart basin will fit
firmly; have the saucepan two thirds full of boiling water, adjust the
basin, and put in it the milk, sugar, and salt; beat the eggs thoroughly,
and when the milk is boiling hot (this will be indicated by a froth or
film over the top) pour half of it on the eggs, mix well, and pour it
back into the rest of the milk in the basin which is over the boiling
water, and stir constantly to prevent curdling. When thick as desired,
pour it at once through a strainer in a pitcher; it curdles if allowed to
462 IN THE KITCHEN.
remain in the hot basin ; add the vanilla, and when thoroughly cold (in
summer it should be placed on the ice) serve it either in a dish or in
cups or glasses, three or four of which, on a dining-plate, are a very-
pretty addition to a dessert.
If the vanilla bean is used, put it in the cold milk, and when thor-
oughly heated and soaked, split and scrape it, but do not take it out
until the custard is served.
A plainer custard may be made with four eggs instead of eight to
a quart of milk.
BOILED CUSTARD WITH CORN-STARCH, NO. 2.
One quart of milk.
One tablespoonful of corn-starch.
Two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
Five ounces of sugar.
Three eggs.
A pinch of salt.
Put the quart of milk, having taken out three tablespoonfuls for
mixing the corn-starch, over boiling water with the sugar and salt; beat
the eggs, and add to them the smoothly-mixed starch ; when the milk is
ready, proceed according to directions given in the preceding receipt.
CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.
This may be made after either of the above rules, with the addition
of four ounces of sweetened chocolate. Break it in half a dozen pieces,
put it over the boiling water, hardly covered with milk; mash, and stir
it perfectly smooth, then add the rest of the milk, and proceed as
above.
CUSTARDS. 463
BAKED CUSTARD AND FLOATING ISLAND.
Put one quart of scalding1 milk on six well-beaten eggs and five
ounces of sugar; flavor with vanilla, pour it in a baking-dish, and bake
in a slow oven. When cold, spread a layer of floating island (page
464) over it with small strips of stiff currant-jelly through it, or cover
it with little peaks of the plain floating island.
OMELETTE SOUFFLEE.
The whites of six eggs.
The yolks of three eggs.
The grated rind of half a lemon.
Three ounces of sugar.
Beat the yolks with the sugar and lemon until very light; whisk
the whites to a stiff" froth and mix them lightly with the yolks; butter
a round dish slightly, throw in the whole, smooth with a knife; make
an incision with a spoon-handle an inch deep all around the edge of
the omelette; .bake ten minutes and serve immediately, not delaying a
moment.
ALMOND CUSTARDS.
Four ounces of sweet almonds.
Two and a half ounces of sugar.
One pint of cream.
One teaspoonful of rose-water.
The yolks of four eggs.
Blanch the almonds and beat them to a smooth paste with a table-
spoonful of water (using a few drops occasionally) ; add the rose-water
to the cream, the beaten yolks, almonds, and sugar, place it over boiling
water, and stir until it thickens. Serve in cups.
464 US' THE KITCHEN-.
FLOATING ISLAND, NO. L
One tumbler of currant jelly.
One pint of powdered sugar.
Five eggs.
Beat the whites of the eggs very stiff before putting in the jelly,
then beat well, add the sugar gradually and beat it perfectly stiff; chili
it thoroughly on the ice; serve in a glass dish half filled with cold milk;
cover it with the island in spoonfuls standing in peaks. To be eaten
with cream.
FLOATING ISLAND, NO. 2.
Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and beat in gradually a
tumbler of currant jelly and a gill of powdered sugar; continue beating
until perfectly stiff. Serve as in the above rule.
FLOATING ISLAND OF FRESH RASPBERRIES.
Crush a pint of very ripe red raspberries with a gill of sugar; beat
the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth and add gradually a gill of pow-
dered sugar; press the raspberries through a fine strainer to avoid the
seeds, and by degrees beat in the juice with the egg and sugar until so
stiff that it stands in peaks.
CARAMEL CUSTARD.
Mrs. John Stebbixs.
Melt one pint of brown sugar to a liquid, in a frying-pan, and
stir it very slowly into three pints of boiling milk; pour this on seven
well-beaten eggs, mix well, pour in cups placed in a dripping-pan one
fourth full of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven until when tried
with a knife the custard will not adhere to it.
JELLIES. 465
JELLIES.
CALF'S FOOT JELLY.
Boil four calves' feet (three and a quarter pounds) in four quarts
of water slowly, until the water is reduced one half, strain through a
cloth laid in the colander, and put it away; the next day remove all the
fat, and to one quart of the clear jelly add one pint of wine, one pound
of sugar, four lemons (the rind pared like an apple), the slightly-beaten
whites, and crushed shells of four eggs; boil fifteen minutes without
stirring; when a thick scum rises, take it off, and keep it skimmed, then
throw in a cup of cold water; let it boil three or four minutes, skim,
strain, pour it into moulds wet with cold water, and place them in the
refrigerator.
LEMON JELLY.
One pound of sugar.
One and a half pints of boiling water.
One ounce of isinglass, soaked two hours or more in half a pint of
cold water.
Half a gill of wine.
The juice and grated rind of three lemons.
Pour the boiling water on the isinglass, stir it, and add the other
ingredients, then pour it in moulds wet with cold water.
WINE JELLY. "
Mks. Montgomery.
One box of Cox's gelatine.
One and a half pounds of sugar.
30
466
IN THE KITCHEN.
Two quarts of water.
One pint of wine.
Two lemons
Pour one pint of cold water on the gelatine and the rind of the
lemons ; let it stand an hour, then add three pints of boiling water, the
sugar, wine, and lemon-juice ; strain it and put in moulds, which must
be placed on ice unless the weather is so cold that the jelly will stiffen
in the open air.
STRAWBERRY JELLY.
[see stkawberrt acid, page 523.]
Strain a quart of the acid and warm it over a vessel of hot water,
adding to it one ounce of gelatine which has been dissolved in as little
water as possible ; mix well and pour into moulds. In hot weather
take one and a half ounces of gelatine.
ORANGE JELLY.
One pound of sugar.
Half a pint and about two thirds of a gill of strained orange-juice.
Three gills of boiling water.
The strained juice of two lemons.
The rind of two oranges.
One ounce of Cooper's isinglass.
Soak the isinglass in cold water two hours, taking care that it does
not float; boil the orange peel in a pint of water until enough of the
flavor is extracted; this must be decided by the taste, as some like it
quite bitter. Put the lemon-juice in the gill measure, fill it up with
orange-juice, and put it with the half pint of juice on the sugar. Take
the isinglass from the water, lay it for a moment on a towel, then put it
JELLIES. 467
in a two-quart tin basin with three gills from the water boiling with
the orange peel; add the sugar, etc., stir well, and let it heat gradually,
and when just ready to boil strain it through a towel, aud pour it into
moulds wet with cold water.
ORANGE JELLY, NO. 2.
One box of Cox's gelatine soaked one hour in one pint of cold
water; add one pint of boiling water, one pound of sugar, and one
pint of sour orange-juice; pour in moulds rinsed in cold water.
COFFEE JELLY.
One pint of clear coffee as strong as it is generally drank; sugar
to taste. Pour one gill of cold water on half an ounce of Cox's gela-
tine and let it soak fifteen minutes ; pour off the water, and put the gel-
atine, when well dissolved, in the hot coffee; wet a mould and pour it
in through a strainer.
LADY MARY'S JELLY.
Put half a pint of calf's foot jelly in a mould that has been rinsed
with cold water; when stiff and firm place on it a small bunch of fine
hothouse grapes, and above them two peaches and a nectarine, placing
them very carefully, remembering that the whole is reversed when
turned from the mould. When the fruit is tastefully arranged add
jelly that is partly formed; pour it in slowly on both sides the fruit,
being sure that it fills all the interstices; let it reach the top of the
fruit; above this place two or three small, glossy vine-leaves, and add a
little jelly to keep them firm, and fill the mould; it must be carefully
turned out. It majT, perhaps, be loosened with a knife, or the mould
may be wrapped for a moment in a towel wrung from hot water. If
468 IN" THE KTTCHEN.
in this last mode a little melted jelly should settle around the form,
when served, absorb it with a soft napkin. Lady Mary would probably
allow the fruit to be varied at pleasure. Beautiful plums might be
used, or large, firm strawberries; nothing, however, from which the
juice would come.
PEACHE3 A LA UDE.
Make a syrup of a pound of sugar and half a pint of water; when
boiled and skimmed place in it five or six fine large peaches peeled and
halved with the blanched kernels; let them boil gently until clear, being
careful not to break them ; skim them from the syrup and leave them
to drain; squeeze the juice of six lemons and acid to the syrup with
gelatine Avhich has been soaked half an hour and melted over boiiing
water; it must be used in the proportion of one ounce to a quart of
syrup. "Wet a mould, pour in the jelly to the depth of half an inch, and
let it harden on the ice; then fill the mould with alternate layers of the
peaches and half-formed jelly. Place it on the ice and do not disturb
it until perfectly stiff.
MACEDODTE OF FRUIT.
Wine jelly and fruit in alternate layers frozen together; the fruit
may be of any or of all sorts, and may be candied or preserved, or the
slices of pear, apple, etc., may be boiled in syrup and then drained. The
mould must be filled after the jelly has begun to form, but before it is
stiff, and the first layer should be of jelly. When filled place the mould
in salt and ice prepared as for freezing an ice-cream; cover closely and
let it remain several hours.
ORIENTAL JELLY.
This consists of red and yellow jellies placed irregularly in small
quantities in the same mould with bits of quince.
JELLIES. 469
One box of Cox's gelatine.
One and a half pounds of sugar.
Two quarts of water.
One pint of wine.
One slightly heaped tablespoonful of dried saffron flowers.
One and a half teaspoonfuls of scoke-berry syrup.
The pared rind and juiee of two lemons.
Pieces of canned quince.
Pour one pint of cold water on the gelatine and let it stand an
hour; drain the juice thoroughly from the quince and lay the pieces in
a napkin ; add two pints of boiling water to the gelatine, the lemon-peel
and juice, the sugar and wine; dissolve thoroughly, and let it stand
while the saffron steeps a few minutes in' two gills of water; then take
out the lemon-peel, and divide the jelly in two equal parts ; each part
now requires two gills of water. If the measure of saffron water falls
short, make it up with boiling water, and add it to one half of the jelly,
making it a bright yellow; to the other half add two gills of boiling
water and the scoke-berry juice to make it a deep red; place these jel-
lies on ice until they are so stiffened that you can barely take up a
heaped tablespoonful, then wet a mould, lay in two tablespoonfuls of
one color and then of the other, putting in each a strip of quince about
an inch long and half an inch wide. In this way fill the mould, and
place it at once on the ice.
GREEN MELON IN JELLY.
Have a large and a small melon mould, also one pint of cream blanc-
mange not stiffened, and one quart of clear calf's-foot jelly not stiffened ;
fill the small mould, having wet it, with the blanc-mange, colored green
with spinach -juice; wet the large one, and pour in clear calf's-foot
470 IN THE KITCHEN.
jelly, leaving room for the green melon to stand on it, and be even with
the top. The next day, or when both are perfectly stiff, have the rest
of the jelly but partly formed; take the green melon from the mould
and lay it with the top down on the centre of the jelly, and, keeping it
in place, pour in all around it the soft jelly, and place the mould on ice.
Blanc-mange eggs may also be placed in moulds of jelly.
AN EXQUISITE DISH FOR EASTER.
Calf's-foot jelly.
Preserved straws of lemon.
Blanc-mange moulded in egg-shells.
Color the jelly a bright yellow by steeping a small quantity of dried
saffron leaves in the water. Pare the lemon as thin as possible, in bits
about a finger long and the width of a common straw ; boil them in
water until tender, then throw them in a rich syrup, and boil until
clear.
Make a blanc-mange of cream, divide it in three, color one third
pink with pokeberry-syrup, one green with spinach, or pistache, and
leave the other white. Make a hole half an inch in diameter in the side
of the egg-shell near the large end, and pour out the egg, after breaking
the yolk with a skewer; wash the shells and let them drain, then lay
them in a basin of sawdust or salt, to steady them, and pour in the
blanc-mange, through a cruet-funnel, very slowly, to avoid air-bubbles,
and place the pan in the refrigerator; this should be done several hours
before they are wanted. When ready to serve, break the jelly, and form
a mass of it, about the size and shape of a hen's nest, in a round,
flat, dish; lay the lemon-peel, irregularly like straws, over the edge
of the nest; remove the shells carefully from the eggs and complete
the dish by laying them on the jelly.
FOR ADDITIONAL ■ RECEIPTS. 471
472 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
ices. 473
ICES
FOR FREEZING ICES.
One part coarse table salt.
Two parts ice broken the size of a walnut.
Pack the creara-pail firmly above the height of the cream. For
three pints of cream, pour over the ice in the freezer one and a half
pints of water, and for every additional quart of cream add half a
pint of water, after the packing.
TO FREEZE CREAM WITHOUT A FREEZER.
If one wishes to freeze a pint or quart of cream when there is no
freezer at hand, it may be done in a tin pail in from twenty to thirty
minutes. Put the eream in a two-quart tin pail and cover it; mix coarse
salt with finely-pounded ice or snow, in the proportion of one third
salt; put a quart of it in an ordinary wooden pail, place the tin pail
in the centre, and pack it firmly with the freezing mixture to within an
inch of the top; then remove the cover and stir with a wooden spoon,
constantly detaching the frozen cream from the bottom and sides of the
pail, until the whole is stiff; smooth it over the top, replace the cover,
pour off the water, repack, cover the whole closely with a piece of
carpet, and leave it for an hour or two in as cool a place as can be
found. In winter the pail may stand on a chair in the kitchen while
the cream is being stirred, in summer in any shady place in the open
air.
This mode gives one the pleasure of seeing the freezing process,
which is concealed in patent freezers.
474 IN- THE KITCHEN.
PETERBORO ICE CREAM.
Three quarts of cream, not very rich.
One pound of granulated sugar.
One vanilla bean.
Steep the bean in a little of the cream, break and scrape it well to
get the full flavor, mix thoroughly with the cream and sugar, then
pour it in the packed freezer, and freeze it. The pod of the bean may
be rinsed, left to dry, and used in flavoring boiled custard.
LEMON ICE-CEEAM.
To two quarts of sour cream (it must be cream that has soured
quickly) take one of sweet cream, one pound and a half of sugar, the
juice and rind of one lemon; cut the rind thin, and steep it ten or
fifteen minutes in half a pint of the sweet cream over boiling water;
strain, cool, and add it to the rest. Pat it in the freezer, and set it in
ice an hour before freezing.
ICE-CREAM.
Mrs. Swift.
Put one pound of sugar, a vanilla bean split, and two quarts of
milk over boiling water; beat six eggs with half a pound of sugar and
add to the milk when hot; cook until a little thickened, take it off, and
when cold add one quart of rich cream, whip it briskly for a few
moments, and freeze it.
ICE-CREAM (CORN-STARCH).
Three pints of milk and cream together, reserving a lijftle for
mixing the starch.
ices. 475
Ten ounces of sugar.
Four even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch.
Vanilla extract or bean.
Four eggs, the whites beaten stiff.
Let the milk and cream scald over boiling water, add the starch,
the beaten yolks, and the sugar; when the custard adheres well to the
spoon add the whites of the eggs and take it from the fire, flavor, and
when cold freeze. If the vanilla bean is preferred to the extract, it
must be boiled and scraped in the milk.
ICE-CREAM (MAIZENA).
Two quarts of milk.
One quart of cream, beaten until thick.
One and a quarter pounds of sugar.
Three tablespoonfuls of maizena.
Vanilla bean or extract.
The whites of four eggs, beaten stiff.
Put the milk over boiling water, having reserved enough for
mixing the maizena smooth, which must be added when the milk is hot,
when cooked add the sugar and let it cool; have the cream on ice and
salt for an hour, then beat it with the egg-beater until thick, add the
whites of the eggs, which should be cold as possible when the cream
is ready; beat up quickly, flavor with vanilla, and freeze as fast as
possible.
CARAMEL ICE-CREAM.
One and a half pounds of brown sugar.
Three quarts of cream. '
One pint of boiling milk.
476 EST THE KITCHEN.
Put the sugar in an iron frying-pan on the fire and stir until it is
a liquid, being careful not to let it become too dark; stir it in the milk,
strain it, and when cool pour it in the cream, which it both flavors and
sweetens. To be frozen like vanilla cream.
CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM.
Three quarts of cream.
One and a half pints of sugar.
One gill of boiling water.
Half a pound of Maillard's or other sweetened chocolate.
Break the chocolate into eight or ten pieces, put it in a small
saucepan with the water, and stir it over a slow fire until dissolved and
smooth; add by degrees a pint of the cream, then the sugar, and
when well mixed the rest of the cream, and strain it into the freezer.
COFFEE ICE-CREAM.
Half a pint of very strong, clear coffee.
One pint of sugar.
Three pints of cream.
One tablespoonful of arrowroot.
Scald one pint of the cream and stir in the arrowroot, mixed
smooth in a little cold cream; add the sugar and coffee, and when cold
the rest of the cream.
Or, pour a pint of cream on one pint of hot roasted Mocha coffee,
cover, and let it scald five minutes over boiling water; then let it stand
ten minutes, strain it into a pint of cold cream, heat it, and pour it on
four eggs well beaten with three quarters of a pound of sugar. When
cold, freeze.
ices. 477
TEA ICE-CREAM.
Pour a pint of cream on half a gill of Old Hyson, cover, and let
it scald over boiling water a few minutes; take it from the fire and let
it stand five minutes, strain it into a pint of cold cream, put it over the
boiling water, and when scalding mix it gradually with four eggs well
beaten with three quarters of a pound of sugar. When cold, freeze,
ICE-CBEAM DIPLOMAT.
In a tin, brick-shaped mould put a layer of strawberry cream half
an inch deep, and fill the mould with vanilla cream, dropping in here
and there a little candied fruit. Pack the mould in salt and ice until
thoroughly frozen.
TUTTE FRUTTE.
A rich vanilla cream with candied cherries, raisins, currants, and
citron. The fruit must be added when the cream is nearly frozen.
PEACH ICE-CREAM.
Select rich, ripe peaches, peel and mash them to a pulp ; make them
very sweet (they will not require more than a pound of sugar to a
pound of fruit, probably not as much), and add to every pint a pint of
cream. Remember in* using sugar that much sweetness is lost in the
freezing. Coddled apples may be used instead of peaches.
PINEAPPLE ICE-CREAM.
Choose a very ripe pineapple, pare it, take out all the eyes, then
grate it, and make after the above rule.
478
IN THE KITCHEN.
STRAWBERRIES FRAPPEE3.
Line a mould with vanilla ice-cream, fill the centre with fresh
strawberries, cover with ice-cream; cover the mould securely, and pack
it in the freezer with pounded ice and salt; let it remain from half to
three quarters of an hour and serve. The fruit must not be frozen, but
thoroughly chilled. Ripe peaches peeled and cut are delicious used in
this way.
* STRAWBERRY ICECREAM.
Mrs. W.
Pour a quart of scalding milk on a well-beaten egg and an even
tablespoonful of corn-starch mixed smooth in a little cold milk; stir it
over boiling water until it begins to thicken; when cold mix it with
a pint of strawberries that have been mashed with a half a pound
of sugar and rubbed through the colander; freeze as usual.
STRAWBERRY ICECREAM.
Mash with a potato-pounder in an earthen bowl one quart of straw-
berries with one pound of sugar; rub it through the colander, add one
quart of sweet cream, and freeze. Very ripe peaches or coddled apples
may be used instead of strawberries.
CITRON ICE.
Make two quarts of rich lemonade well flavored with the rind; this
may be done by grating two or three of the lemons and leaving the rind
for a short time in the water; or if lump-sugar is used rub some of the
pieces over the lemons to extract the flavor; if the grated rind is used,
the lemonade must be strained before putting in the citron. Slice
enough citron thin and small to fill loosely a half-pint measure, and
ices. 479
throw it in the lemonade; put it on the fire and boil for a moment, or
if made the previous evening it requires no boiling. Beat the whites-
of three eggs to a stiff froth and add the above, beginning with very
little, and adding the whole gradually, when it is ready to freeze.
Preserved water-melon may take the place of citron.
CURRANT ICE.
To one pint of currant-juice add one pound of sugar and one pint
of water; when partly frozen add the whites of three eggs whisked to
a stiff froth.
STRAWBERRY ICE.
Crush two quarts of strawberries with two pounds of sugar; let
them stand an hour or more, squeeze them in a straining cloth, pressing
out all the juice; add to it an equal measure of water, and when half
frozen add the whisked whites of eggs in the proportion of three to a
quart.
ORANGE ICE.
Grate the rind of four oranges and steep it ten minutes in a pint
and a gill of water; strain a pint of the water on one pound of sugar,
add a pint of orange-juice, and when cold pour it in the freezer, and
freeze ; when half frozen add the whites of four eggs whisked to a stiff
froth.
LEMON ICE.
To one pint of lemon-juice add one quart of sugar and one quart
of water in which the thin rind of three lemons has been steeped until
highly flavored; when partly frozen add the whites of four eggs beaten
to a stiff froth.
480
IN THE KITCHEN.
PINEAPPLE ICE.
» Pare good, ripe pineapples and cut out the eyes; grate them arid
pass the pulp through the colander; to one quart of this add one and
a quarter pounds of sugar and one pint of water; whisk the whites of
two eggs to a stiff froth and add the above little by little, beating well
to make them mix; freeze.
SNOW CEEAM.
Add a quarter of a pound of sugar to half a pint of cream, and
%vor highly with vanilla or lemon ; if fresh lemon is used, more sugar
will be required. Stir in newly-fallen snow until thick as ice cream.
The syrup of any kind of sweetmeats may be used instead of cream.
In either case the snow must not be added until just before serving.
SCOKE 0E POKE BERRY.
This is very valuable for the beautiful color which its juice im-
parts to creams, ices, jellies, etc. It is a low, herbaceous plant with a
reddish stalk and large clusters of very dark purplish berries.
When ripe, gather the fruit, put it in a porcelain kettle, and nearly
cover with cold water; let it boil slowly until the skins break; strain
it, and to a pint of the juice add one pound of sugar; boil it a few
minutes, then bottle and seal.
In coloring a pint of cream, begin with half a teaspoonful, and
add more if a darker shade is desired.
TO PREPARE PISTACHE NUTS FOR ICE-CREAM.
Pour boiling water over them; let them stand a few moments,
drain, and cover again with boiling water, when the skins will slip off
quite easily. They are then pounded to a paste in a mortar and mixed
with the cream.
FRESH FRUITS. 481
FRESH FRUITS
HOW TO SERVE A WATER MELON.
Chill the melon on the ice ; cover the inner part of the platter with
fresh, clean grape-leaves; place the melon in the centre and cut it in
two, letting the ends fall back to show the fine coloring of the pulp
and seeds; at table it should be helped with a spoon, scooped oulf in
symmetrical, egg-shaped pieces.
HOW TO CUT A PINEAPPLE.
Pare it carefully, and with the point of the knife take out all the
eyes; then, with a silver fork, pick the fruit from the core in bits as
large as an almond or Brazil nut; cover with sugar or not as preferred ;
sugar draws out the juice; place on ice in time to have it well chilled
when served.
STRAWBERRIES.
Do not wash them unless absolutely necessary; but if it must be
done, hold the shallow basket of unhulled strawberries close under the
pump while you give them one good, generous douche which will pass
at once through the basket, taking with it the dirt and grit which would
otherwise have set your teeth on edge ; let them drain and dry for a
few moments undisturbed, then hull them, handling lightly as possible.
Put no sugar over them; it draws out the juice and changes the char-
acter of the fruit. If the strawberries are not to be eaten for an hour
or more, hang the basket in the refrigerator, and do not hull tnem until
the last moment.
4S2
IN THE KITCHEN.
CHERRIES.
Gather them in clusters with a few leaves attached, and arrange
them in a deep glass dish with large pieces of clear ice.
CURRANTS.
Look them over carefully, wash if necessary, and leave them to
drain, in the refrigerator. Serve with a piece of clear ice in the centre.
Of a sultry summer morning nothing is more refreshing.
WHORTLEBERRIES.
Look them over carefully, taking out all that are past their prime,
or not fully ripe; wash, drain, and serve for breakfast or tea.
PEACHES.
It is very important that they should all be perfectly ripe ; better
have a small dish of good peaches than a large dish spoiled by half a
dozen peaches with a hard side. Pare them, cut in strips lengthwise,
and serve at once; they become discolored if left standing.
AMBROSIA.
Six large oranges.
One cocoanut.
Sugar.
Peel and slice the oranges, taking out the seeds ; pare and grate
the cocoanut; put them in layers in a deep dish, strewing every layer
with powdered sugar.
FRESH FRUITS. 483
FRESH FRUIT SUGARED.
Select full, beautiful stems of the large red and white currants, and
fine bunches of cherries; beat the white of an egg barely enough to
break it; dip the fruit in the egg, then in powdered sugar, and leave it
to dry on the shallow side of a sieve.
484 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
485
486 FOR ADDITIONAL KECEIPTS.
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 487
FRUITS.
Baked, Stewed, and Preserved.
APPLES FOE, TEA.
Pare and core tart apples; fill the centre with sugar and a small
bit of butter; put them in deep pie-plates with a little water, and
bake until tender, basting occasionally with the syrup. To be eaten
cold with sugar and cream.
BAKED SWEET APPLES.
For baking, no apple is equal to the Pound Sweeting. Never core
Bweet apples; wash them, put them in the oven with a little water in the
pan, and bake them very slowly for hours. They are wonderfully rich
and luscious when properly baked, but quite indifferent if taken from
the oven even a little too soon. They should be a dark, rich brown,
with a slight appearance of syrup over them.
BLACK CAPS.
Pare and core sour apples; stick four cloves in the top of each, fill the
centre with sugar and bake them, with a little water, in deep pie-plates.
APPLES STEWED WITH CLOVES.
Two and a half pounds of Spitzenberg apples.
One pound of sugar.
One quart of water.
Cloves.
488 IN THE KITCHEN".
Put the sugar and water in a bright tin milk-pan. Peel and core
the apples, sticking five cloves in every one. When the syrup is hot
lay in the apples, cover, and let them boil until about done ; then re-
move the cover that they may become clear, as they cook slowly and
are exposed to the air.
BAKED APPLES FOR DINNER.
Quarter and core (do not pare) sour apples, put them in a baking
dish, sprinkle with sugar, cover with small bits of butter, add water and
bake until tender. For a dish holding three pints use a gill of sugar, a
gill and a half of water, and butter the size of half an egg.
STEWED APPLES FOR DINNER.
Use Spitzenbergs or Greenings or any acid apple that will keep in
form. Put a quart of water and three gills of sugar in a milk-pan on
the range; when boiling add the apples, pared, quartered, and cored, —
no more of them than will be nearly covered by the water; cover and
boil slowly until almost done; then leave them uncovered, and as the
pieces become tender, put them carefully one by one, the rounded sides
up, in the dish in which they are to be served; some of the syrup may
be poured over them.
FRIED APPLES FOR DINNER.
Use Spitzenbergs or Greenings ; quarter and core, but do not pare
them; have hot drippings ready in the frying-pan and lay in the ap-
ples, the skin side down; sprinkle with brown sugar, and when nearly
cooked, turn and brown thoroughly. Drippings do not burn as readily
as butter, and are better on that account.
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 489
CODDLED APPLE.
"Wash unripe, dark-green, sour apples, and put them in a porcelain-
lined kettle; cover with water, and let them boil until tender; pour them
in a sieve and let them cool; throw away the water that drains from
them; rub them through the sieve and add sugar to- the taste; the ap-
ples should be so sour as to require a great deal. Serve cold, pouring
it in the centre of the dish; leave it as it falls, do not smooth it, grate
a little nutmeg over the top. To be eaten with sugar and cream.
BAKED PEACHES.
Wash the peaches (they need not be fully ripe), put them
in a deep dish, sprinkle them well with sugar, cover, and bake
until perfectly tender.
STEWED PEACHES.
Wipe peaches that are almost ripe, half cover them with water,
cover the pan and stew until tender, adding sugar to the taste before
they are quite done.
BAKED aUINCES.
Wash ripe quinces and core them; put them in an ordinary bak-
ing-dish with half a gill of water; fill the holes with sugar, and bake
until thoroughly done.
STEAMED QUINCES.
Pare, quarter, and core very ripe quinces ; put them in a deep dish
and steam until perfectly tender; then slice them in the dish in which
they are to be served, in layers sprinkled with sugar, and pour the juice
over them. To be eaten cold.
4:90 IN THE KITCHEN".
DRIED SOUR APPLES, WITH DRIED BLACK RASPBERRIES.
Wash both very lightly, and soak (separately) over night in suffi-
cient water to cover them. In the morning put the apples on the fire
in the same water, adding more until well covered, and cover the ket-
tle;/when they begin to boil, shake and stir them gently to bring the
lower pieces to the top, that they may stew evenly; when half done
add the raspberries with the juice, and when the apples are tender put
in sugar to the taste; let all simmer together half an hour, or until of
a fine, rich color.
FRIED BANANAS.
J. J. D.
Peel ripe bananas, split them in two lengthwise, fry in butter,
sprinkle with sugar, and serve for dessert.
STEWED CRANBERRIES.
Pick them over carefully and take out all that are defective; wash
them well, and put them over the fire, more than covered with water;
cover the saucepan, and stew until the skins are tender, adding more
water if necessary; add a pound of sugar for every pound of cranber-
ries, let them simmer ten or twelve minutes, then put them away in a
bowl or wide-mouthed crock, and keep them covered.
BAKED PEARS.
"Wash them, leave the stems on, put them in a two-quart stone crock
with a gill of water and half a pint of brown sugar; cover the crock with a
piece of dough (coarse flour and water), rolled about half an inch thick,
or with the stone cover belonging to the crock; put them in the oven, and
bake two hours or more; the time depends on the ripeness of the fruit.
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED AND PRESERVED. 491
STEWED PEARS.
They should be ripe but firm; pare them carefully, that they may
be smooth as possible, and the stems unbroken; drop them in boiling
water to which sugar has been added '(one gill to a quart) ; the water
should nearly cover the pears; cover the pan, and boil until perfectly
tender.
If liked, part of a vanilla bean may be boiled with them, and more
sugar added.
BARTLETT PEARS. (Canned.)
Ten pounds of fruit.
Two and a half pounds of sugar.
Two quarts of water.
"Weigh the sugar and put it in the preserving-pan with the water,
leaving ii covered on the table. The fruit should be ripe and yellow,
but perfectly firm; pare, halve, and core it, leaving the stem, when pos-
sible; sometimes it may be divided with the pear. Ten minutes before
finishing this work put the pan on the stove, and when the syrup boils your
fruit will be ready for it. Slide it in, all together, and let it boil, covered
until nearly done; have a deep pan of boiling water on the stove, close
by the pears, with a thin board in the bottom, on which are five glass
quart-cans, half filled with water; as the fruit cooks, empty the cans
and fill them. There will be specks in the syrup, little particles of the
fruit that have boiled off; and to strain this without cooling the syrup,
heat a small pitcher in boiling .water, place it in the kettle with a little
wire sieve in the top, and fill it with a ladle or teacup, then quickly fill
and cover the cans. There will be perhaps a pint of syrup left, but
that will do for pears, baked in a jar; or, if a thicker syrup is preferred,
boil it down before filling the cans; while the syrup is boiling the covers
492 IN THE KITCHEN.
may be placed on the cans to keep the water from getting1 in, but they
must not be screwed on.
Lay the rubber, rings, and glass covers on the cans while they
are in the water, and give the metal ring a turn, then remove them to
the table and screw tight. An hour or two later screw them again as
tight as possible.
PEAR SWEETMEATS.
The pears must be ripe but firm; pare, halve, and core them, cover
with water, and let them stew gently until tender. If lemon is liked
with them, cut the rind as delicately as possible in long, thin, narrow
strips, and boil it in clear water. If green ginger is preferred, scrape
it thoroughly and boil it with the pears. Allow one lemon or half an
ounce of ginger to a pound of fruit; make a syrup of three fourths of a
pound of sugar to half a pint of water, using the water in which the
pears were boiled; when boiled and skimmed, put in the fruit and boil
until clear; boil the ginger or lemon-peel with the pears; if lemon is
used, squeeze the juice in the syrup.
PIE-PLANT STEWED WITH ORANGE PEEL.
Pare an orange in long thin strips and boil until tender; add sugar
to make a rich syrup, lay in pieces of pie^plant two or three inches long
in a single layer, and stew gently until clear. When these are taken
out another layer may be stewed. This makes a beautiful dish for' des-
sert, ornamented with stars and crescents of puff paste. Allow one
orange for two pounds of pie-plant.
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 493
PIE PLANT FOR TEA.
Cut the stems into bits an inch long, put them in a baking-dish in
layers with an equal weight of sugar, cover closely, and bake. It is
said to be far better than stewed pie-plant.
PIE-PLANT CANNED.
Cut the pie-plant in pieces two inches long, put it over a slow fire
with its weight in sugar; when the sugar is dissolved let it boil slowly
until clear, but do not leave it to become dark-colored. Put it in air-
tight cans.
GOOSEBERRY SWEETMEATS.
Nip the remains of the flower from the end of the gooseberries,
wash, and weigh them, allowing a pound of granulated sugar to every
one of fruit; cover, and place them over a slow fire, letting them stew
gradually until the skins are tender; they must not be stirred, but should
be shaken now and then; add the sugar, and when perfectly dissolved,
without boiling, while the fruit is very hot, fill the cans, and screw the
covers tight as possible.
STRAWBERRY SWEETMEATS.
Two pounds of sugar.
Two heaping pints of very large strawberries.
Two gills of boiling water.
Put the sugar in a bright tin preserving-pan over a kettle of boiling
water, and pour on it the measure of water; when the sugar is dis-
solved and hot, put in the fruit, and then the pan can go directly on
the range; let it boil ten minutes, or longer if the fruit is not clear; do
494 IN THE KITCHEN.
not let it boil violently, for that would break the strawberries ; put them
in cans, and keep them hot while the syrup is boiled down until very
thick and rich; then fill the cans, having drained off the thin syrup, and
screw down the tops. If much fruit is put up during the day, and there
is more syrup than is wanted, it may, while thin, be flavored with vine-
gar, boiled for a moment, then bottled and corked; it makes a pleasant
drink with ice-water.
Great care must be taken to keep the strawberries not only
whole, but round as possible; therefore as the cans cool, turn them
occasionally, to prevent the fruit lying in a flattened mass at either
end. As this fruit is very delicate and breaks easily, it should not be
preserved in large quantities.
GRAPE SWEETMEATS.
Pick the grapes from the stems, pop the pulps from the skins, doing
two at a time, one in each hand, between the thumb and forefinger; put
the pulp in a porcelain kettle, and stew gently until the seeds are
loosened; then strain and rub it through a sieve; weigh it with the
skins, and to every pound of this allow one pound of granulated sugar,
but do not put it in yet; put the skins and juice in the kettle, cover
closely, and cook slowly until the skins are tender; while still boiling,
add the sugar, and move the kettle back, as it must not boil again; keep
very hot for fifteen minutes, then, seeing that the sugar is thoroughly
dissolved, pour the fruit in cans, and screw down the covers as quickly
as possible.
The grapes should be dead ripe, and none but those with tender
skins should be used in this way. The Isabella is excellent, but the
Concord defies time and patience with the thickness and toughness of
its skin.
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 495
There is a Fox grape which is preserved green, and is very
beautiful ; it is large and firm, and before boiling it is cut open, and the
seeds are taken out.
TO DRY BLACKBERRIES.
Mks. Burritt, Penn.
Look them over carefully, pick out all leaves and stems, then add
one pound of sugar to eight or ten quarts of berries and half a pint
of water; let them heat slowly and scald thoroughly for several min-
utes, then spread them with the juice on platters, or plates, and dry
them in a partly cooled oven.
BLACKBERRY SWEETMEATS.
The large Lawton Blackberry is the best for this purpose, as its
acidity makes a soft jelly of the syrup. Allow a pound of sugar to a
pound of fruit; put the fruit in a porcelain kettle, let it heat slowly on
the back of the stove until there is so much juice that it can boil with-
out burning. It must boil until perfectly tender, perhaps ten or fifteen
minutes; then add the sugar, mix as gently as possible, and do not let
it boil again, but keep very hot until the sugar is perfectly dissolved.
Heat a pitcher, and with that fill the cans as quickly as possible, and
screw down the covers immediately.
TO DRY CURRANTS.
One pound of sugar.
Five pounds of currants.
Put them together in a porcelain kettle, a layer of currants at
the bottom; when the sugar is dissolved let them almost boil, skim
496 IX THE KITCHEN.
them from the syrup, and spread them on plates to dry in a partly
cooled oven. Boil the syrup until thickened, pour it over the currants,
and dry it with them. Pack in jars, and cover closely.
CURRANT SWEETMEATS.
Look them over carefully, stem and weigh them, allowing a pound
of sugar to every one of fruit ; put them in a kettle, cover, and leave
them to heat slowly and stew gently for twenty or thirty minutes ; then
add the sugar, and shake the kettle occasionally to make it mix with
the fruit; do not allow it to boil, but keep as hot as possible until the
sugar is dissolved, then pour it in cans and secure the covers at once.
White currants are beautiful preserved in this way.
RED OR BLACK RASPBERRIES WITH CURRANT JUICE.
Ten pounds of raspberries.
Twelve pounds of granulated sugar.
One quart of currant juice.
Make a syrup of the sugar and juice; when boiling add the fruit,
and continue boiling for ten minutes. Put in glass cans, and fasten
immediately.
CHERRY SWEETMEATS.
Mrs. B.
To ten pounds of cherries allow five pounds of sugar; stone the
fruit and put it in a porcelain kettle in layers with the sugar; let it heat
slowly until the juice is drawn out; or it may stand in a cool place
several hours, even over night; when stewed until tender take the cher-
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AXD PRESERVED. 4:97
ries from the syrup in a little strainer, and put them in cans placed
on a board in boiling' water. Boil the syrup until thick, then fill the
cans and fasten the covers.
CRAB APPLE SWEETMEATS.
To a pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar, and one quart of hot
water to seven pounds of fruit.
Put the sugar and water in the preserving-kettle, and let it stand
over boiling water to dissolve while the fruit is being prepared; it must
be rubbed clean, and well pricked with a coarse needle, the stems left
on The syrup must then be placed where it will boil, then add the
fruit; boil until so tender that a straw will reach the core. Put in cans
and screw down the covers at once.
CRAB APPLE MARMALADE WITH PLUM SYRUP.
Peterboro, N. Y.
Sixteen pounds of crab apples.
Four quarts of plum-syrup.
Two quarts of granulated sugar.
Two quarts of cold water.
Nip the remains of the flower from the apples and take off the stems ;
put them in a preserving-kettle with the water and let them boil until
perfectly soft; rub them (juice and all) through the sieve or colander,
add the sugar and syrup, and boil until thick, then pour it into pie-plates,
and when stiffened paste paper over them. Cut in slices to serve.
In preserving plums there is always more syrup than should be put
up with the fruit; it can be put aside in self-sealing cans, or in bottles,
until crab apples are ripe, and then used in this way, making a marma-
lade of delightful flavor.
32
498 IN THE KITCHEN.
PEACHES.
Mrs. B.
Pare fourteen pounds of ripe peaches, nearly cover them with
slightly-sweetened water, — two pounds of sugar to three quarts of
water. While the peaches are stewing prepare a syrup of seven pounds
of sugar to seven gills of boiling water; boil and skim it; have glass
cans, half filled with hot water, on a round board, in a pan of boiling
water, and as the peaches become tender, pour the water from the cans
and fill them; then drain the juice from the peaches, fill the cans with
the boiling syrup, and screw down the covers. "While cooling, keep the
cans turned upside down.
PEACH SWEETMEATS.
Mrs. Alexander.
Pare, halve, and weigh the fruit, allowing a pound of sugar to a
pound of peaches; crack half of the stones and blanch the kernels
(see page 372); place the fruit in layers with the sugar in a bowl (but
two pounds should be preserved at a time) and let it stand two or three
hours; when the sugar is dissolved put the whole in a kettle with the
kernels, boil fast until the fruit is perfectly clear, put it in cans, boil the
syrup a little longer, strain it hot upon the fruit, and cover imme-
diately.-
PEACH MARMALADE
Pare, halve, and weigh the peaches; allow three quarters of a pound
of sugar to one of fruit; boil the fruit alone, breaking, and stirring it
smooth, add the sugar, cook slowly, stirring often until it is very thick.
Pour in earthen pie-plates, and when cold cover with paper.
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 499
ORANGE MARMALADE.
Twelve pounds of sour oranges.
Twelve pounds of crushed sugar.
Wash the oranges, and pare them as you would apples; put the
peel in a porcelain-lined kettle with twice its bulk or more of cold
water; keep it covered, and boil until perfectly tender; if the water
boils away, add more; the peel is generally very hard, and requires sev-
eral hours boiling; cut the oranges in two, crosswise, and squeeze out
the juice and the soft pulp; have a pitcher with a strainer in the top,
placed in a two-quart bowl; squeeze the thin juice and seeds in the
strainer and the rest with the pulp in the bowl, drawing the skin as you
squeeze it over the edge of the tin strainer, to scrape off the pulp ; then
pour all the juice and the pulp on the sugar; the white skins must be
covered with three quarts of cold water, and boiled half an hour; drain
the water on the sugar; put the white skins in the colander, four or
five together, and pound off the soft part, of which there must be in all
two pounds and four ounces; put this with the sugar and juice; when
the peel is tender drain it from the water, and choose either of these
three modes : Pound it in a mortar, chop it in a bowl, or cut it in deli-
cate shreds with a pair of scissors. There is still another way, which
saves the necessity of handling the peel after it is boiled; it is to grate
the yellow rind from the orange, then tie it in a muslin bag, and boil
until soft, which you can tell by rubbing a little of it between the thumb
and finger; it is then ready for the other ingredients; put the whole in
a porcelain kettle, or in a bright tin preserving-pan, aud boil about an
hour; when it begins to thicken it must be tried occasionally, by letting
a little of it cool in a spoon laid on ice. To prevent its burning, pass
the spoon often over the bottom of the kettle; when it is thick as
desired put it in tumblers, and cover with paper.
500 IN THE KITCHEN".
TO MAKE GREEN SWEETMEATS,
Pare watermelon-rind and cut it in leaves, diamonds, hearts, or any
form that may be liked; the very small, green melons, from six to eight
inches in length, must have a round piece, two inches across, cut from
the side, that all the pulp and seeds may be removed; do this carefully,
with the handle of a spoon; preserve the piece. Put all in a crock, and
pour over them a brine of one and a half pounds of salt to four quarts
of water; let them remain in this two or three weeks if the weather is
warm, — longer, if cold; they may remain unharmed for two or three
months, if care is taken to keep the brine strong. Before preserving
soak all the salt entirely out, by keeping them in fresh water, and
changing often; boil until a straw can be run through them, and while
boiling change them several times from boiling to cold water, as it
makes them clear and brittle; if the melon is not green enough put in
cabbage-leaves and boil again in fresh water. Make a strong ginger
tea, by steeping dried or green ginger; if the latter is used it
must be first well soaked and scraped that it may not discolor the
syrup; add also the rind of several lemons, pared in quarters, being
careful to take them out when the water is sufficiently flavored, after
which they must be more than covered with fresh water and boiled
until perfectly tender; then cut in fingers, remove the white, and with
a pair of scissors notch the edges; they may also be cut like leaves.
Allow one pound of sugar to one of melon; make a syrup of one pint
of the strong ginger and lemon tea to four pounds of best sugar; let
it dissolve slowly over boiling water, then put it on the range, and when
boiling lay in the drained melon and lemon leaves, and boil until they
are clear, when they may be tastefully arranged in cans, the lemon
and the most beautiful pieces of melon lying evenly against the glass.
Make a fresh syrup in the same way, and pour hot over the melons;
FRUITS, RAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 50,1
the ginger may be nicely cut, preserved in the first syrup, and put in
the cans with the melon; or pieces of* preserved East India ginger may
be used, but not boiled with it. If lemon-juice is liked, put it in the la^t
syrup; the first syrup may be used in stewing pears, or canned, and
used in mince-pies. Fill the small, whole melons with rich, drained
sweetmeats, — cherries, crab apples, pears, and barberries, — and fasten
the cover with two or three locust-thorns.
PRESERVED OR PRESSED ORANGES.
Slit the oranges and press out the juice and seeds; strain the juice,
and leave it in a cold place ; boil the rinds, well covered with water,
until tender, not allowing them to break; press out all of the water,
cover with fresh, cold water, and let them stand until the next morning,
then press out the water and weigh them ; allow three quarters of a
pound of sugar to one of orange; make a syrup with the juice and
sugar, put in the rinds, and boil slowly for an hour and a quarter,
or until they are clear; if the syrup is too thick, add a little water.
If boiled too long, they become tough and dark-colored.
KITTY'S PINEAPPLE.
Pare the .pineapples and take out the eyes; cut in slices about
half an inch thick and shred with a silver fork; to every pound of fruit
put half a pound of granulated sugar, mix, and boil hard five minutes;
can while boiling hot, and screw down the covers immediately.
FRESH PINEAPPLE FOR CHRISTMAS.
Take a very fine ripe pineapple, pare it, and cut out carefully all
the eyes, then with a silver fork strip all the pulp from the core; to one
502 IN" THE TCITCHEST.
pint of this add one pound and a Quarter of lump or crushed sugar, and
stir occasionally until all the sugar is dissolved; then put it in glass
fruit-cans and screw down the covers as tight as possible. This keeps
a long time and is delicious.
PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.
Pare the pineapples and take out the eyes, weigh them, and allow
a pound of sugar (granulated) to every pound of fruit; grate the pine-
apples on a coarse grater, put them over the fire, add the sugar gradu-
ally, stir often, and cook until clear and thick; then put up in air-tight
cans.
QUINCE SWEETMEATS.
Wash the quinces and steam them until they can be pierced to the
core with a straw; leave them to cool. If to be preserved whole, core
them before paring; otherwise, pare smoothly, then cut into fourths or
eighths. To every pound of fruit allow one pound of sugar made into
a syrup with half a pint of boiling water; boil and skim the syrup, then
slide in the fruit, cover the kettle, and boil for ten minutes; remove the
cover, and if not clear let them stand for a few moments, then put them
in hot cans (see "Canned Pears," page 491), and close at once.
QUINCE SWEETMEATS.
Mrs. Allyng.
Pare, core, and weigh the quinces, and allow three quarters of a
pound of sugar to every pound of quince; cut them in rings; put the
parings and cores into just enough cold water to cover them, and boil
uutil very tender; throw them into a bag and let thorn drip without the
least squeezing; put a little water in the kettle with one layer of the
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 503
quince-rings and cover tight; cook until a straw will go through them,
skim them out carefully, put them in a tureen and cover them; proceed
in this way until all are boiled. Put the sugar in the water from which
the quinces were skimmed, add what has dripped from the bag and
boil fifteen minutes; skim it, pour it over the fruit, cover tight, and
let it stand ten days; then put the colander over the kettle and pour
in it the contents of the tureen; be careful that all of the juice drains
into the kettle; return the quinces to the tureen, let the syrup boil
twenty minutes, pour it over the quinces, then put in cans and screw
the covers tight as possible. They keep well and are delicious.
aUINCE AND APPLE BUTTER.
Five pounds of quinces.
Ten pounds of sour apples.
Seven and a half pounds of sugar.
Pare, core, and quarter the fruit; boil the quinces barely covered
with water until soft, then add the apples, and when tender add the
sugar, and boil slowly several hours, or until as thick as desired ; stir it
occasionally, and towards the last very often to prevent burning.
aUINCE MARMALADE.
Pare, quarter, core, and weigh the fruit, cover it with cold water
and let it boil until broken; mash and stir it smooth, add the sugar, and
boil until so thick that it will be stiff when cold. Be very careful that
it does not burn; stir often and cook slowly; when quite thick try a
little of it on ice. Put it in earthen pie-plates, and when* cold paste
paper over them.
504 IN THE KITCHEN.
DRIED PLUMS.
Two pounds of sugar.
Eight pounds of plums.
The plums must be stemmed, stoned, and free from specks; put
part of them in a porcelain kettle with the sugar, let them heat slowly
to extract the juice, then scald them thoroughly without boiling; skim
out the fruit with a coarse wire-skimmer and spread it carefully on plat-
ters; scald the rest of the plums in the same syrup, and when they are
taken out boil the syrup five or ten minutes, and pour it over them.
Dry quickly as convenient; the syrup jellies and the whole dries easily.
PLUM SWEETMEATS.
Allow a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit; if the plums are
very fine and large, do but a small quantity at once, and in this way:
Make a syrup of three gills of water to two pounds of sugar, and when
skimmed and boiling, put in. the plums and boil slowly until clear; keep
them covered for the first fifteen minutes. The syrup that is left when
they are put in the cans is excellent with crab-apples (see page 497).
If the plums are small, after weighing them and allowing an equal
weight of sugar, put them where they will heat very slowly, and let
them stew until the skin is perfectly tender; then put in the sugar and
shake the kettle; do not stir the fruit; let it simmer very slowly for
twenty minutes, then put in glass cans and screw tight.
APPLE JELLY.
Hamburg, Germany.
Wash sour apples and quarter them; put them in a porcelain ket-
tle and cover them with cold water; let them boil untouched until they
FRUITS, BAKED, STEWED, AND PRESERVED. 505
break, then put them away in the kqftle, if it can be spared, otherwise
in an earthen bowl, for three days; then drain them without pressing,
add one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and boil three quarters
of an hour. Pour it in a pitcher, fill the glasses, and cover them.
CUEEANT JELLY WITHOUT BOILING THE SUGAR.
Wash the currants, if necessary, but be careful to let them drain
thoroughly, over night if possible; pick out all the leaves, then crush
the fruit with the hands in a large earthen bowl, about a quart at once.
Have a stone crock with a strainer tied over the top of it, drooping in
the centre, or a hair sieve, and as the currants are ready pour them in
it; when they are all crushed and draining, stir them about with the
hand and squeeze the thin juice from them ; then take about a pint and a
half at a time in a strong towel and squeeze them; the thick juice that
comes at the very last it is well to put aside for currant shrub; the'first
can go with that in the crock. Measure the jnice, and to every pint
allow one pound of granulated sugar; put the juice in the preserving-
kettle and lot it boil fast for twenty minutes, skimming it well; pour
the sugar in the boiling juice, having taken from it enough to equal the
quantity of scum which has been removed ; place the kettle where it
will keep hot but do not let it boil; stir gently, and when the sugar is
entirely dissolved pour it in a large pitcher and fill the jelly-glasses.
They may be at once covered, but should not be moved until the jelly
is formed.
CUEEANT JELLY.
The currants must not be dead ripe; look them over and pick out
all the leaves, but do not stem them; put them over the fire in a porce-
50G IX THE KITCHEX.
lain kettle and let them remain,- heating gradually, until they look
shrivelled ; they must scald thoroughly, but not boil. Pour the con-
tents in a large flannel bag, and drain without touching; to every pint
•of this allow one pound of crushed or granulated sugar; boil the juice
fifteen minutes without the sugar, and five minutes after putting it in;
skim well, and pour in the glasses; squeeze what remains in the bag and
make it like the above. It will be beautiful jelly but not equal to the
first.
CURRANT JELLY WITH THREE QUARTERS OF A POUND OF SUGAR.
Heat the currants as in the above rule, squeeze them, and to every
pint of juice add three quarters of a pound of sugar; boil twenty min-
utes, skim, and put it in glasses. This is a beautiful jelly, but does not
keep as well as that made with more sugar.
Half a bushel of currants makes two dozen tumblers of jelly.
GRAPE JELLY.
Mrs. Huntington.
The grapes must not be more than half ripe, less will do; put them
in a stone crock in a kettle of boiling water, and as they heat stir them
up gently from the bottom with a wooden spoon; when all are broken
tie a towel over the mouth of an empty crock, place on it a quart of the
hot grapes, and occasionally pass the spoon under them to remove the
pulp from the towel, but do not press them; then take out the fruit and
drain another quart, and so on until all are drained. (If desirable this
drained fruit may be squeezed for an inferior jelly.) Measure the juice,
allow a pound of sugar to every pint, put the juice over the fire, and when
it breaks into boiling add the sugar, dissolve perfectly, keeping it very
hot, but not allowing it to boil, then put in glasses, and when cold cover.
PKUITS, JiAKED, STEWED, AND PRESEBVED. 507
QUINCE JELLY.
Mus. Allyng.
Put the parings and cores of quinces in a kettle, and nearly cover
them with cold water; boil until very tender, pour them in a straining
cloth tied over the top of a crock, let them drain untouched. To every
pint of juice allow three quarters of a pound of sugar; put the juice in
a kettle, and let it boil, then stir in the sugar, a handful at a time; boil
twenty minutes, and pour into glasses.
TO COVER JELLY.
This may be done by touching the edge of the round paper to the
width of half an inch, with paste, placing it over the glass, and pressing
it closely until it adheres; or it may be done with a thin paper wet with
the white of egg, which not only serves as paste, but makes the paper
air-tight. A thin but strong paper is required, as a poor paper cracks
badly in drying; be careful to cut the papers evenly and of the right size ;
half a dozen can be cut at once; fold the paper, turn a tumbler upside
down on it, and with a pencil or scissors draw a line around the edge,
remove the glass, and cut half an inch outside the line.
TOMATO FIGS.
Make a syrup of five pounds of best sugar, juice of two lemons,
five gills of water, and the pared rind of the lemons. Peel five pounds
of fig-tomatoes very carefully, letting them lie a moment in boiling
water to loosen the skins; let them simmer in the syrup until clear,
place them on a reversed sieve to become cold; boil the syrup until
508 IN THE KITCHEN.
quite thick, return the tomatoes, let them simmer slowly for an hour,
then drain, flatten, and dry them in a cool oven; pack them tight in
jars, sprinkling granulated sugar over every layer; cover close.
TO PRESERVE FIGS.
Mrs. I. E. Morse.
Gather the figs with stems, just before they are ripe enough to be
eaten; keep them in salt and water for twelve hours; take them out,
and put them in fresh water for three days, changing the water every
day. Make a thick syrup, put them in, and let them boil.
TO FRESHEN FIGS.
Wash them thoroughly and dry them in a towel, heat them'in the
oven, and on taking out roll them in powdered sugar.
CANDIED FRUIT.
Make a rich syrup, — one pound of sugar to one gill of hot water;
have this in a shallow vessel, as there should be but one layer of fruit;
drop in the halved fruit, peaches and plums, or cherries, and let them
cook slowly until clear; drain from the syrup, lay them on plates, and
dry in a heater. Bartlett pears are excellent done in this way, but do
not require so rich a syrup. Placed in the heater belonging to a cook-
ing-stove, the fruit will be sufficiently dry in twenty-four hours to pack
in jars.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 509
PRESERVED CHERRIES.
WlLLOWBKOOK.
Use French short-stemmed or Morello cherries. For every pound
of stoned cherries allow a pound of granulated sugar. Stew the
cherries carefully, for half an hour, in their own juice; add the
sugar; stew slowly for twenty miuutes, or until the fruit is clear;
then put it up in air-tight cans.
°*® FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
V
CANDY. 511
ca:n:d y
MORKISVILLE CANDY
One pound of coffee sugar.
Half a pint of New Orleans molasses.
Half a pint of water.
Two teaspoonfuls of butter.
One teaspoonful of soda.
Put all together in a saucepan and boil until it thickens; try it by
dropping in cold water, when, if sufficiently boiled,, it is waxy.
SOFT CANDY.
One pound of good brown sugar, with three tablespoonfuls of
water; when boiling add a quarter of a pound of butter; when thick
and ropy, take it from the fire and stir until it grains, then put it on
buttered plates. Nuts improve it very much; they should be put in
during the stirring.
BLACK WALNUT CANDY.
Bay City.
Four pounds of brown sugar.
One pound of butter.
One quart of kernels.
Put the sugar in a saucepan with half a pint of boiling water,
boil hard for twenty minutes; add the butter, and boil for five minutes,
then add the nuts and stir until it boils; take it off, stir for a minute,
and pour into buttered saucers.
512 IN THE KITCHEN.
EVERTON TAFFY.
One and a half pounds of brown sugar.
Three ounces of butter.
One and a half teacups of cold water.
Boil all together with the rind of one lemon, and when done add
the juice.
CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.
Half a pint of rich milk.
One and a half squares or one and a half ounces of Baker's un-
sweetened chocolate, softened on the fire.
Let the milk boil, then stir the chocolate in very hard, add half a
pint of best white sugar and two tablespoonfuls of molasses; boil until
very thick, taking care not to burn it; pour on buttered tins, and when
nearly cold cut in squares.
MRS. McWILLIAMS'S CARAMELS.
Two pounds of light brown sugar.
Four ounces of grated chocolate.
Four ounces of butter.
Half a pint of sweet cream.
Put these ingredients in a saucepan OKrthe fire, and stir until perfectly
dissolved, but not after it begins to boil, as that would make it gram;
try it now and then in cold water, and when brittle pour it in buttered
shallow pans, and when partly cool cut into small squares.
CREAM CHOCOLATES.
One quart of fine white sugar.
Half a pint of boiling water.
CANDY. 513
Half a pound of Baker's chocolate.
Pour the water on the sugar, mix well, and leave it to boil ten
minutes without stirring; place the saucepan in cold water, and stir
briskly until it becomes stiff enough to handle; mould it in little balls,
and put them aside to cool. Break the chocolate in small pieces, and
put it in a bowl in the top of the boiling tea-kettle; when melted remove
the bowl, and drop in the balls one at a time; take them out with a
fork, and place on a buttered paper.
CHOCOLATE WALNUTS.
Crack the walnuts carefully, take them from the shell, unbroken,
cover each half with the cream (the soft sugar), and when cold dip it in
the chocolate as in the above rule.
MAPLE CREAM CHOCOLATES.
Half a pound of maple sugar.
Quarter of a pound of Baker's chocolate.
Half a gill of hot water.
Crack the sugar in small bits, put it in a saucepan with the water
on the range, but do not let it boil until thoroughly dissolved, when it
must boil quite fast for five minutes; while the sugar is boiling crack
the chocolate and put it in a bowl over a boiling tea-kettle; when the
sugar is boiled take it from the fire, put it in rather a cool place, and
beat until so stiff that it may be made into balls ; flour the hands very
slightly, take a bit about the size of a common marble, roll it perfectly
round in the palm of the hand, and proceed in this way, putting them
in a buttered plate ; when hard, drop them one at a time in the choco-
late; have a fork in each hand, turn the little balls until covered with
the chocolate, then place them on buttered paper to cool and harden.
33
514: FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOB ADDITIONAL KECED?TS. 515
516 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
DRINKS. 517
DEINK8,
COFFEE.
Old Java is generally preferred; some like Mocha better.
Many prefer having it roasted in small quantities at home. Where
there is no cylinder this is done in a dripping-pan in the oven, heated
slowly at first, and stirred often, great care being taken that it does
not burn.
It saves much trouble to buy coffee already roasted. It is well done
and there is no fear of its being adulterated ; ground coffee should be
avoided. In preparing coffee for the table, use
One quart of boiling water.
Half a pint of ground coffee.
Half a pint and one half gill of cold water.
One egg.
Mix the ground coffee with the half pint of cold water and the egg,
which need not be beaten; put it in the coffee-boiler, pour in the boil-
ing water, and let it boil from fifteen to twenty minutes ; pour in the
half gill of cold water, and let it stand for a moment where it will not
boil. It is then ready to serve. It is impossible to make good coffee
in a boiler from which the tin is worn.
COFFEE IN THE EUREKA. COFFEE-POT.
Two and a half ounces of ground coffee.
Three pints of boiling water.
' The coffee should be ground quite fine; put it in the coffee-receiver,
518
IN THE KITCHEN.
pour on the water, and let the coffee-pot remain on the stove until all
the water has drained through, when the coffee is ready to serve.
MENIER'S CHOCOLATE.
For three persons, take two of the rounded bars, break into small
pieces, and melt with half a gill of milk; when smooth add one pint
of milk, let it boil a few minutes, then serve. Use five ounces or four
bars of ordinary sweetened chocolate to one pint of water and one quart
of milk.
BAKER'S CHOCOLATE.
Break two ounces, or two squares, of the unsweetened chocolate
into small bits and stir it over the fire to a smooth paste with a gill
of boiling water and a gill of sugar; add gradually a pint of boiling
water and one of scalding milk; stir, and leave it over boiling water
for ten minutes; then serve.
CRACKED COCOA.
Pour a quart of boiling water on a gill of the cocoa, and boil half
an hour, strain, and serve; the same cocoa may be boiled again the next
day in fresh water. It is sometimes kept in a little muslin bag, and
boiled repeatedly.
CAYUGA CHOCOLATE.
Pour a gill of boiling water on two ounces of Baker's unsweetened
chocolate, broken into four or five pieces; stir it over a slow fire to a
smooth paste, add the yolk of an egg well-beaten, and a gill of sugar
(beat part of the sugar with the egg) ; mix this slowly and thoroughly
DRINKS. 519
into a quart of scalding milk, and let it stand over boiling water, stir-
ring occasionally, for ten minutes ; beat the white of the egg to a stiff
froth, and add a tablespoonful of sugar. "When the chocolate is served
a teaspoonful of the froth is put on the top of every cup.
BROMA.
Have three pints of milk scalding over boiling water, mix half a
package of broma smooth with a few spoonfuls of boiling water, and
when the milk is hot stir it in, having first mixed half a gill or more of
the milk with the broma; leave it ten minutes or until slightly thickened,
then serve.
TEA.
The old rule is : allow a heaping teaspoonful of tea for every one
at table, and another for the tea-pot. As heaping is indefinite, and
very annoying from its uncertainty, it is better to measure the tea; take
one gill for five persons, put it in the tea-pot and cover it with boiling
water; let it stand a few moments in a hot place, then fill with the boil-
ing water and serve. The tea-pot should not only be emptied after
being used, but made perfectly clean inside as well as outside. After a
thorough wiping, turn it upside down that the drops may run from the
spout, and when ready to be put away twist the corner of the towel
and wipe the inside of the spout, and put the tea-pot in its place with
the cover raised; when it is again required pour in boiling water, to
heat it thoroughly.
It is well to keep a small tea-kettle for the express purpose of boil-
ing water for tea, thus avoiding for this delicate drink the water which
has boiled and re-boiled repeatedly during the day, for filling up the
various kettles.
520 nsr the kitchen.
LEMON TEA.
A glass of this delightful drink may often be made from the tea
remaining in the tea-pot, a few lumps of sugar, a slice or two of fresh
lemon, with a little of the juice and some cracked ice. If too strong,
add water.
E00T BEER.
Take a handful of yellow dock-roots (be sure to get the long and
pointed green leaf without the red streaks), a handful of dandelion
roots, and one of sarsaparilla roots, and a small branch of the spruce
tree; tie them in a bag, and boil half an hour in three quarts of water,
then take out the bag and pour the liquid in a crock; if too strong, add
water; sweeten with sugar or molasses, and when cool add a pint of
yeast and let it ferment, skimming it occasionally. It will be fit to use
in a day or two, and must then be bottled and securely corked.
EPPS' BEER.
Four gallons of water, a pint of hops (pressed down), two quarts
of bran, and two ears of corn roasted Mack, boiled together for half an
hour; strain, add a pint of molasses, and when cool half a pint of yeast;
leave it in an open crock until it begins to ferment, then bottle it, or
put it in a small keg. A tablespoonful of allspice may be boiled with
the water and bran.
GINGER BEER.
One and a half pounds of loaf sugar.
Two ounces of cream of tartar.
Two ounces of bruised ginger.
DRINKS. 521
Four quarts of boiling water.
The juice and rind of one lemon.
A tablespoonful of yeast.
Put all these ingredients into an earthen bowl and pour over them
the water; when quite cold add the yeast; in six hours strain, and put
'*p in small stone bottles.
PINEAPPLE BEER.
Pour a quart of cold water on the rind of a pineapple, an even
te«spoonful of ginger, and two even tablespoonfuls of sugar; leave
it in a warm room twelve hours or until very slightly fermented, then
strain, add sugar to the taste, bottle, cork tight, and use in twenty-four
hours.
Or, to the eyes and cores of pineapples add enough of the
rind to weigh one and a half pounds; add three quarters of a pound
of sugar, one and a half even teaspoonfuls of ginger, and three pints of
cold water; leave it in an open crock in a warm room for twelve hours
or until the taste indicates slight fermentation, then strain, bottle, cork
tight (tie the corks down), and use the second day. Leave an inch
and a half in the neck of the bottle, between the beer and the cork.
DICK'S RECEIPT FOR KEEPING CIDER SWEET, NO. L
Half a pound of isinglass.
Half a pound of mustard-seed.
One barrel of cider.
When the cider has reached a pleasant fermentation — enough to
relieve its flatness — break the isinglass in bits and put it in the bung-
hole with the mustard-seed, then " bung it up " tight.
522 IN THE KITCHEN.
NO. 2.
One pound of raisins.
One pound of mustard-seed.
Eight eggs,
When you wish to check the fermentation of the cider, open the bung-
hole, put in these ingredients, not omitting the egg-shells, and then drive
in the bung securely.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
Five quarts of red or black raspberries for three successive days.
Five quarts of best cider vinegar.
One pound of sugar to every pint of juice.
In the morning put five pounds of raspberries and all of the vinegar
in a four-gallon crock; the next morning put five pounds of fresh fruit
in another crock the same size, and tie a strainer over it, drooping
several inches. Pour in it the contents of the first crock, and allow the
fruit to drain untouched until the next morning, when the drained fruit
is thrown away and the same process repeated; this brings you to the
fourth day; then tie the strainer over the empty crock, which must be
perfectly clean, and pour iii it the contents of the other; let it remain
several hours or until the next day. Measure the vinegar, and to
every pint put one pound of crushed sugar; put it in the preserving-
kettle and let it simmer; skim, and while hot, fill the bottles, cork, and
seal. Have the corks soaking in hot water while the vinegar is sim-
mering. Pound the corks well in, holding the bottle, wrapped in a
towel, in the hand. If the cork is too long cut it off even with the
top of the bottle, then turn it upside down, and give it two or three
turns in the "Cork Cement." (See page 553.)
This syrup will keep for years, and makes a most delicious drink
with ice- water.
DRINKS. 523
CURRANT SHRUB.
To one pint of currant-juice and three pints of water add sugar to
the taste; chill with ice, and serve like lemonade.
LEMONADE.
Half a pound of sugar.
One gill of lemon-juice.
One quart of water.
Rasp two of the lemons with lumps of the sugar; if granulated
sugar is used, grate two of the lemons, and leave the rind in the water
for an hour or two, or steep it for five minutes.
STRAWBERRY ACID.
Dissolve five ounces of tartaric acid in two quarts of water, and
pour it upon twelve pounds of strawberries in a porcelain kettle; let
it simmer forty-eight hours ; strain it, taking care not to bruise the
fruit. To every pint of the juice add one and a half pounds of sugar,
and stir until dissolved, then leave it a few days. Bottle, and cork
lightly; if a slight fermentation takes place leave the corks out a few
days; then cork, seal, and keep the bottles in a cold place.
524 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOB ADDITIONAL KECEIPTS. £25
526 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
527
528 tfOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
BECELgTS EOR THE SICK. 529
RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK.
SUGGESTIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE INVALID.
Sickness should always be guarded against, not only for its suffering to the patient and
anxiety to kindred, but for the disorder, irregularity, and restraint in which it involves the
■whole family. It is undoubtedly the result of the violation of law; but whether it has come to
us through our own recklessness or ignorance, or whether it is our inheritance, it demands
the fullest exercise of wisdom, love, and tenderness. We must not forget that sickness has
its compensations. The weary, suffering patient learns from it to value health, and to sympa-
thize with all who have lost it; the attendants learn to perfect themselves in " the fruit of the
Spirit," for which there is such constant need; the children of the house, being checked in
their noisy demonstrations of health and happiness, learn to be thoughtful of -others; anxiety
for the patient and joy in his convalescence turn the mind from its engrossing interests, and
bring a refining and elevating influence. In a dangerous illness, the loved one vibrating for
days between life and death , what message can so thrill the home wi'th joy as the blessed words,
'' Out of danger," breathed and whispered through its halls?
The sick-room, of all others, is the place where almost every faculty with which nature has
endowed us is brought into use. Here we need physical strength and power of endurance in
the care and deprivation which nursing necessarily brings; here we need love and tenderness
in full measure, and entire self-forgetfulness; here we need wisdom, intelligence, cultivation,
refinement, and beautiful taste. Wc need taste in the arrangement of pictures and flowers,
which are for days, often for weeks, the silent study of the sufferer ; taste in the arrangement
of the little waiter, brought to the bed, even if it bear but a simple bowl of gruel. Let the
napkin be snowy, and ironed with a gloss; the china bowl and plate on which it stands free
from specks; the salt-cellar clear as crystal around its little mound of sifted salt; the ring
through which the fresh napkin is drawn, and the spoons, so bright that they reflect the flow-
ers in the little vase beside them. See that the gruel is palatable, well boiled, free from lumps,
of a creamy consistency, and hot.
Keep all medicines out of sight of the patient; have no garments hanging in the room;
keep the bed well-aired and clean. If it is possible, have two adjoining rooms for the patient,
that there may be a change every morning and evening, and a good opportunity for thoroughly
ventilating the room and bed. Even if the patient cannot walk he can be lifted on the
sheet and the blanket which should always be under it. Let it be a constant study
34
530
IN THE KITCHEN".
with those having charge of the sick to bring all the appointments of the room to perfec-
tion,— its ventilation, light, cleanliness, and arrangement of its furniture. Wear light cali-
coes, blue, pink, or purple (colors which are always grateful to the eye), with linen collar,
cuffs, and white apron. These dresses can be washed, and so kept cleaner and sweeter than
woollens, which so easily absorb odors; have them but slightly starched, that there maybe
no rustling. Study that nice line of distinction between .talking to the patient too much of
himself, on the one hand, and too little on the other. Learn how to regulate all talking, to let
it be at the right time, of the right kind, and of right duration. If the face or manner indicate
the least weariness or drowsiness, let the talk fall into the same drowsy, sluggish way, grad-
ually ceasing, without his knowing why; then, if he sleeps, lower the curtain and let every-
thing conspire to lengthen those sacred moments. Whether the patient is awake or asleep,
be very careful that the eyes are not directly exposed to either lamp-light or daylight, but
have as much sunshine in the room as can be borne. Whispering is so trying to the sick tl»at
it would be well if attendants and friends were familiar with the deaf-mute or silent language.
The patient himself, suffering from quinsey or any form of throat disease that renders speaking
difficult, is most fortunate if able to talk with the fingers, — it being so much easier than writ-
ing, which requires pencil, paper, and eyesight. The alphabet for one hand, whuh is here
given, is simple and very easily learned.
T XT V WX. T Z.&
A cheerful, merry heart is indispensable in the sick-room; and there is nothing better than
a keen sense of the ludicrous, to rouse a smile, and if the patient is not too weak, a laugh,
which is worth more than many drugs. No long faces must be seen in the sick-room, and no
impatience or petulance. If, after taking the most unwearied pains ta have everything per-
KECEIPTS FOE THE SICK. 531
feet, and served on the instant, the poor, worn, nervous patient turns away his head in disgust,
because the gruel is made of yellow corn-meal instead of the white, on which his heart was set,
do not bo vexed but put the matter in such a facetious light that he will forget the color of his
gruel, and eat it with greater relish for your merriment.
Neglect no means for keeping the patient happy, cheerful, and comfortable. If he can
bear reading, choose light, agreeable books, neither metaphysical nor emotional; keep the
bed-clothes smooth, and in cold weather be careful that the patient is not burdened with heavy
clothing. Have three small pillows, about fourteen by ten inches, one of them filled with hair,
to be used wherever required, under the knee, elbow, or shoulder. Have nothing to do with
" comforters " filled with cotton ; a light one of silk or woollen material, filled with wool, is very
good, but with blankets the heat can be more easily regulated. When the patient is uneasy,
gentle rubbing of the back and limbs is very soothing. An India-rubber bag of hot water
at the feet, and, indeed, in many cases of neuralgia, under the head, is an unspeakable comfort.
In long, protracted sickness, an India-rubber mattress is found of great service in preventing
abrasion of the skin; so, also, is a sheep-skin — the fleecy side up. When the patient is sleep-
ing heavily, with the mouth open, lay over it a bit of soft linen moistened with tepid water, to
prevent the tongue from drying — this, of course, if he is able to breathe through the nose. If
the sleep is induced by opium, the lips, and even the tongue, may be gently swabbed from time
to time, without disturbing him. A glass tube is most desirable, when difficult to drink from a
cup, and the little white china boat, with covered spout, is also very convenient. When the
patient can sit up in bed, by all means have a wooden tray, on legs, some five or six inches
high, to stand before him on the bed, for serving his meals. In a sick-room, where sweeping-
is impossible, wipe the carpet with a damp clotb; pin the cloth around a broom and clean
thoroughly under all the furniture that cannot be moved.
These are but a small part of the many comforts that may be provided for the sick-room;
but the mention of these few may prove useful to the inexperienced.
DR. HITCHINFS OATMEAL GRUEL.
Mix two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal with three of cold water; have
ready in a saucepan one pint of boiling water; pour this gradually in
the oatmeal, return it to the saucepan, and boil five minutes, stirring to
prevent the meal from settling; skimr and strain through a hair sieve.
532 IX THE KITCHEN.
OATMEAL GRUEL.
Throw a handful of raisins into a pint of water and let them boil
five or ten minutes; mix two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal with a little cold
water and pour it into the saucepan; boil fifteen or twenty minutes,
add a little salt, and sugar to the taste. Wine and nutmeg are also
used, and some prefer it without the raisins.
FARINA GRUEL.
Stir two tablespoonfuls of farina in three of milk, pour it in a
pint of boiling water, and boil until thoroughly cooked, stirring often
to keep it smooth; take it off, add a pinch of salt and two gills of
cream.
MRS. COWLES' INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.
Make a thin paste with cold water of two tablespoonfuls of white
Indian meal; stir this into a quart of toiling water salted; boil it four
hours or longer, make a thin paste of a teaspoonful of wheat flour, stir
it into a large teacupful of boiling milk, let it boil up once, then add
this to the Indian meal, and let it boil up once. This can be made
thicker or thinner to suit the taste. When made rather thick, it is very
nice thinned with a little cream. .
THICKENED MILK.
Bolton, N. Y.
Scald one pint of milk over boiling water, and pour it on two even
tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smooth in two tablespoonfuls of cold
milk, return it to the boiling water, stir well, and let it cook thoroughly;
season to the taste with salt, and sugar, if liked. Beat the white of an
egg to a dry froth, pour the gruel on it, mixing thoroughly r then serve.
RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK. 533
THICKENED MILK.
Cambridge, Mass.
Tie a pint of flour as closely as possible in a bit of strong cotton
cloth, boil it four hours, well-covered with water, then take it out and
leave it to cool. Boil a pint of milk over water; thicken it with a table-
spoonful or more of the flour, scraped, and mixed smooth with a little
cold milk; season to the taste with salt, and a little sugar if liked. This
is not only very palatable, but in many obstinate cases of tr. summer
complaint " it is a perfect remedy. The flour-ball will keep for months
in a dry, cool place.
PANADA.
Grated bread or rolled crackers may be used. To one ounce of
bread add half a pint of boiling water, let it boil a few minutes, then
sweeten with loaf sugar and flavor with wine and nutmeg.
SOAKED CRACKER.
Cover a hard pilot-biscuit with cold water, and when the water is
absorbed cover it again, and place it in the oven; when thoroughly
heated and puffed, serve it with a little salt and a few spoonfuls of sweet,
rich cream.
CREAM TOAST.
Toast a slice of bread evenly and quickly, not allowing it to become
hard ; barely dip it in boiling water, then sprinkle some salt over it, and
cover it with a few spoonfuls of sweet, rich cream.
534: m THE KITCHEN.
PLEASANT AND BENEFICIAL DRINK IN FEVER.
Put half a pint of dried sour apples washed clean, in a quart-pitcher,
and fill it with boiling water. When cold it is ready to drink, either
with or without ice. Fresh sour apples may be used the same way.
TOAST WATER.
Toast two slices of bread thoroughly, but without the least burn-
ing; put them in a quart-pitcher; while hot, pour cold water over them.
This takes the chill from the water and gives it an agreeable flavor.
CRUST COFFEE.
Toast the bread slowly, as brown as possible without burning, pour
boiling water on it, cover, and let it steep awhile, to draw the flavor
and nourishment from the bread. It may then be prepared with sugar
and cream, or not, as preferred. Graham, and Boston brown-bread,
toasted slowly and thoroughly, make excellent coffee.
CORN COFFEE.
Shell ripe, dry corn, and roast it like coffee, evenly, and of a deep,
brown; fill the coffee-boiler half full, and nearly fill it with boiling water
cover, and let it steep two hours ; more water may be added to the corn
for a second making. It is highly nutritious, and with sugar and cream
is very much liked. Carrots cut fine, dried, and roasted, are also used
for coffee.
RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK. 535
EGG AND MILK.
Beat the egg separately, then stir the yolk and white together; fill
the tumbler with milk, add loaf sugar to the taste, and flavor if de-
sired.
E^G NOGG.
Beat the yolk of an egg in a tumbler with a tablespoonful and a
half of sugar and two teaspoonfuls of brandy; beat the white to a
dry froth, mix it thoroughly with the yolk, add a heaping tablespoon-
ful of pounded ice, and fill the glass with milk.
If the patient cannot take egg, it may be omitted and more milk
used; or, if milk is objectionable, the egg may be used without it.
EGG WINE.
Beat an egg with half a gill of cold water, and pour over it a glass
of wine made very hot with one gill of boiling water; add sugar to
the taste; stir it over the fire until it thickens, not letting it boil.
Serve in a tumbler with a slice of dry toast, cut in long strips, placed
on a plate and crossed over each other. A little nutmeg may be grated
over the wine.
WINE WHEY.
Stir a gill of sherry in a pint of boiling milk, let it boil again,
then remove from the fire, and when the whey separates strain and
sweeten it.
SYLLABUB.
'' In the morn when he went to follow the plough,
She milked him sweet syllabubs under the cow."
In a pitcher holding one and a half pints dissolve three fourths of
536
IN THE KITCHEN.
a gill of sugar in half a gill of wine; take it to the cow and milk until
the froth reaches the top of the pitcher.
Or, when the sugar is dissolved in the wine pour in lukewarm
milk from a pitcher, holding it sufficiently high to raise a froth.
CHICKEN BROTH.
Wash half the breast and one wing of a tender chicken; put it in
a saucepan with one and a half pints of water, a tablespoonful of rice
or pearl barley; let it simmer slowly, and skim; season to the taste.
When the chicken is thoroughly cooked, take it out, and serve the broth
in a bowl, with a bit of dry toast. If barley is used it should be first
soaked for several hours.
CHICKEN CREAM FOR AN INVALID.
Quarter of a pound of the breast of a chicken, boiled.
One pint of chicken broth.
Three or four tablespoonfuls of cream.
One teaspoonful of salt.
A pinch of mace.
A large pinch of white pepper.
Pound the chicken to a paste in the mortar, adding now and then
some of the broth; rub it through the sieve and boil a few moments
with the pepper, salt, and mace. It may be put in the refrigerator until
wanted. Heat it over boiling water, and add the cream.
CHICKEN JELLY.
Cut a chicken as for a fricassee, and to two and a half pounds add
one quart of water; boil and skim, then simmer slowly until the water
RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK. 537
is reduced to one pint; strain through a cloth; when cold stir in the
crushed shell and beaten white of an egg, with a blade of mace, a little
salt and pepper, and let it boil (without stirring) five minutes or until
clear; then strain it into a mould that has been rinsed with cold water.
POTATO JELLY.
[SEE " POTATO STARCH," PAGE 567.]
Mix half a gill of the starch smooth in a littlo cold water, then pour
on boiling water until nearly the consistency of jelly, and let it boil a
few minutes; add a little salt, sugar, lemon, or wine, and nutmeg to
the taste.
BEEF JUICE.
Put a piece of thick steak on a gridiron over the coals, and when
heated sufficiently to free the juice, squeeze it in a lemon-squeezer.
This is excellent for an invalid; it may be taken from a spoon or
eaten with rice.
BEEF SANDWICH.
Scrape one or two tablespoonfuls of raw beef from a choice, tender
piece; season it with pepper and salt and spread it on a thin slice of
bread, buttered or not, as preferred; fold the bread, cut off the crust,
and divide the slice in three pieces of uniform size.
BEEF TEA, NO. 1.
One pound of beef.
One pint of cold water.
Two even teaspoonfuls of salt.
The beef should be juicy, and free from fat; cut it in bits about
538 IX TUB KITCHEX.
an inch square, cover it with the cold water, and let it stand one hour.
Put it on the fire, let it heat slowly, and reach the boiling point, then
strain, and season to the taste.
The bits of meat will be found quite tasteless and the tea most
delicious.
BEEF TEA, NO. 2.
Cut a pound of tender, juicy beef into small pieces and put it in a
wide-mouthed bottle; cork tight and place it over a slow fire in a kettle
of cold water; heat gradually until it boils; continue the boiling for
several hours until the juice is well drawn from the beef; strain, season
with salt, and serve either hot or cold.
CARRAGEEN, OR IRISH MOSS.
Wash two handfuls of carrageen through two or three waters, drain,
and pour on it three pints of boiling water; let it simmer until the moss
becomes a pulp, then strain, sweeten to taste, and add the juice of two
lemons. To be eaten cold. Milk may be used instead of water.
ARROWROOT.
Put a pint of milk over boiling water, reserving a little in which to
mix two ounces of arrowroot; when the milk is scalding add the arrow-
root, two and a half ounces of sugar, and a pinch of salt; stir often,
until it is thick as mush, then pour it in a mould. A gruel may be made
in the same way with half the quantity of arrowroot, and with or with-
out sugar.
TAPIOCA PORRIDGE.
Soak one gill of tapioca several hours, or over night, in two gills of
cold water; add a pint and a half of new milk and let it cook slowly
RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK. 539
for several hours, over boiling water. It may be-seasoned with salt, or
with sugar and wine, but is excellent without either.
TAPIOCA JELLY.
Soak two ounces of tapioca five hours, or over night, in half a pint
of cold water; put it over the fire with another half pint of cold water,
and when quite thick add one gill of boiling water; let it boil until the
pieces are perfectly clear, then add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and
flavor with two teaspoonfuls of brandy or two tablespoonfuls of wine;
or, if lemon is preferred, boil the thin rind of one with the tapioca until
it is flavored, and add as much of the juice as is liked. Pour it in
small moulds wet with cold water and place them on ice. It is also
very palatable when warm.
TO COOK BARLEY.
Wash it, cover with cold water, and let it swell and cook slowly on
the back of the stove all day, or until it is tender, adding water when
necessary; whole raisins may be cooked with it. When soft, add wine
and sugar to the taste.
JELLY IN ICE.
Pound ice very fine in bits about the size of a pea, stir it in two
thirds its quantity of calf's-foot jelly, and pour a little sherry over it.
This is in many cases most refreshing to the sick.
MRS. BURWELLS COUGH REMEDY.
One ounce of licorice-stick.
One ounce of anise-seed.
5i0
IN THE KITCHEN".
Half an ounce of* senna.
One pint of molasses.
Put the licorice, anise, and senna in one quart of water, boil it
until the strength is out, — eight or ten minutes; strain it, add the
molasses, and boil it down to a pint, then bottle it.
COUGH REMEDY.
Dr. Bektin, Paris.
Pour half a pint of boiling water on a quarter of a pound of gnm-
arabic; when dissolved add one quarter of a pound of sugar and half
a gill of lemon-juice; let it simmer for five or ten minutes, then
bottle and cork. "When taken, water may be added. This is a most
soothing syrup for a throat irritated by a hacking cough.
REMEDY FOR A COUGH.
Finely-powdered saltpetre to cover a sixpence, taken every morning
in a teaspoonful of honey.
FOR QUINSY.
Try gargling with as hot water as can be borne. It has been found
to give great relief, where the patient could hardly speak, and could
not swallow.
TO STOP BLEEDING OF THE NOSE.
Find the artery on both sides of the face where it crosses the
jaw, some two or three inches above the point of the chin, press it
closely against the bone with the thumb and forefinger; observe which
nostril bleeds most freely, and press harder on that side. This gives
speedy relief and is far more agreeable than rolls of paper pressed
RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK. 541
above the front teeth, or cold keys and cold water applied to the back
uf the neck.
NURSERY RECEIPTS.
Mrs. Fisher.
For dysentery or cholera infantum. To the white of one egg
beaten stiff add three drops of brandy and one lump of sugar; mix
well together; give a quarter of a teaspoonful every two hours. For
babies over six months old, mix a quarter of a teaspoonful of brandy
with the egg and give a teaspoonful for a dose.
After a baby is weaned, give for the same disease one pint of milk
boiled with one teaspoonful of flour; dilute it with water. Feed the
child with this until the movements abate. Use raw flour and milk for
an adult.
These remedies have proved invaluable in serious cases when med-
ical prescriptions had failed. Mrs. Fisher, who is a nurse of great
experience, assures me that she has known many lives saved by using
them.
GRUEL.
" Water Gruel,'' says Tryon in his books on health, " is the king of spoon-meats and queen
of soups, and gratifies nature beyond all others."
OATMEAL GRUEL.
Boil the oatmeal in water two hours, strain it, and add an equal
quantity of milk.
CAUDLE.
Mrs. Van dex Heuval, New York.
Stir eight quarts of water gradually into one pound of oatmeal
(one of Robinson's packages), add one ounce of stick cinnamon, three
512 IN THE KITCHEN.
grated nutmegs, the thin yellow rind of four lemons, and one pound
and a half of sugar; boil it four hours. In another saucepan boil one
pound of stoned raisins — the best and largest kind — in two quarts of
water for two hours; add the whole to the oatmeal wiih the juice of the
four lemons, one pint and a half of Madeira or Sherry, and half a pint
of brandy; let it boil a few minutes, when it is ready for use. Half
this receipt will make three quarts of caudle.
For taking scurf from the head of an infant. Burn butter, and
apply like glycerine at night.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 543
544 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
TOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPT*., £45
546 FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
MISCELLANEOUS BECEIPTS. 547
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
USEFUL HINTS.
Rough wooden boxes two and a half feet long, one and one half
feet wide, and two feet high, larger or smaller, may be easily made very
useful and quite ornamental. If the top is in pieces, fasten them together
with cleats on the upper side. It improves the appearance of the dox
to have the top project half an inch or more over the front and ends;
it also makes it much easier to open. If hinges are not readily found,
use strips of leather instead; these may be cut from a worn-out shoe.
Put a layer of hay or straw over the top, and cover it with a piece of
tow-cloth or factory; double the edge, and tack it closely, then cover
it with glazed chintz, using as few tacks as possible, depending chiefly on
paste, which need be used on the edge only. Let the edge of the chintz
lap under the box and over the top, just within the inside; then line it
neatly with yellow wrapping-paper from store packages, or with cheap
wall paper; the paper should conceal the edge of the chintz. Cover
the top of the box in the same way.
These boxes may be used for a great variety of purposes. In an
upper hall, one is very convenient with a small, light box for dust inside,
with space at the end for dustpan and brush. In a linen closet, one is
good for waste paper, with a small box for strings nailed in one of the
upper corners.
Covers for pillows may have a loop on the irtside edge of the upper
hem, and be hung on very small smooth knobs on the bedstead, directly
ti±8 IN THE KITCHEN".
over the pillows, and thus save pinning them every morning to the
pillow.
Never use newspapers for wrapping. Save all the paper from
packages, fold it smooth that it may be ready to use again. Save all
the strings, putting them away free from knots.
Ax oil-cloth may be pasted to the carpet where tacks cannot be
used; and table oil-cloth may be pasted on a shelf or over a small table.
It is a good plan to have eight white cotton piece-bags hung on
a row of hooks in the linen closet; have six of them sixteen inches
wide and twenty long, with a string to draw from both sides; and the
other two nine by thirteen inches. Have them marked in large letters
in indelible ink, the large ones, " Merino and Cloth," " Cotton and
Linen Sundries," K Dress Pieces/' " Old Linen," " Worsted and
Yarn," "Old Silk"; the two small ones, "Thread and Tape," "Old
Gloves."
To preserve ice in a refrigerator, Wrap it in several thicknesses of
newspaper.
To remove the unpleasant odor from feather pillows, expose them
to a strong wind on a cloudy day; do not put them in the sun.
TO MAZE HARD WATER SOFT.
For every one hundred gallons take half a pound of the best quick,
lime, make it into a cream by the addition of water, then diffuse it
through the water in the tank or reservoir, and allow it to stand; it will
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 549
quickly become bright ; the lime having united with the carbonate of
lime, which makes the hard water, will be all deposited. This is a most
beautiful application of the science of chemistry.
BORAX SOLUTION FOE, WASHING AND MAKING HARD WATER SOFT.
One and a quarter pounds of super-carbonate soda.
Quarter of a pound of borax.
Dissolve in one gallon of boiling water; when cold add three
ounces of ammonia. For washing hands, use one ounce of this liquid
to one gallon of water; for clothes, use two ounces to one gallon.
POTATO STARCH.
Grate four pounds of raw potatoes, pour over them six or eight
quarts of cold water, mix thoroughly, and strain through a cloth into
a large pan. When the starch has settled pour off the water, add fresh
water, mix it thoroughly, and let it settle again ; then pour off the water
and dry the starch on a brown paper, either in the sun or in a slightly
heated oven. This weight of potato makes twelve ounces of starch.
TO TAKE OUT FRUIT SPOTS,
Pour boiling water through them before washing, or moisten the
spot, and hold under it a lighted match, when the sulphurous gas will
soon cause the stain to disappear.
WASHING BLANKETS.
Mrs. Breck.
In a tub that will hold three blankets, make a suds of soft soap or
Castile soap (it must, be, free from turpentine) and cold water; add
550 IX THE KITCHEN.
one gill of borax. Lot the blankets soak over night; the next morning
wash them well in the same water, and rinse them through two clean,
cold waters; then hang them up to dry without wringing.
TO PREVENT CALICOES FROM FADING.
Dissolve half a pint of salt in one quart of boiling water, and
while hot put the dress in it, let it lie several hours, then wring it dry
and wash as usual.
TO SET A LEACH.
Bore several auger-holes in the bottom of a barrel; prepare a
square board a little larger than the barrel with grooves running into
one in the centre of one side; pile up sticks of wood, or turn a strong
box upside down on which to raise the barrel; it should be eighteen
inches from the ground and so tipped that the tye may run easily from
the board into the pail or tub prepared for it. Put straw in the barrel
to the depth of two inches, and scatter over it two pounds of slacked
lime ; then pack tight with ashes, moistening occasionally, to make it
more compact. Leave a funnel-shaped hollow in the centre large
enough for several quarts of water. Let it stand two days before pour-
ing in water, and when the first water is poured in let it disappear
before adding more.
It may stand in a cellar or under a shed.
SOFT SOAP.
Geneva.
Twelve pounds of stone potash.
Twelve, pounds of clean grease.
Put the potash in a piece of old carpet, and crack it with the back
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 551
of an axe into pieces the size of an egg; put it in a large iron kettle
with a gallon or more of water; when dissolved add the grease, and
when thoroughly melted pour it in the soap-barrel, fill it with hot water,
and stir well, and for a day or two stir occasionally.
B. T. BABBITT'S PURE CONCENTRATED POTASH.
This makes excellent soap. Follow the directions on the box,
using two large kettles if a suitable boiler is not at hand. The meat
used in a family of six or eight supplies sufficient gi-ease to make all
the soft soap that is required. Make it every three months, or oftener.
FOR HARD SOAP.
Marcy, N. Y.
Six pounds of sal soda.
Three pounds of slacked lime.
Six pounds of clean grease.
F^our gallons of soft water.
Half a pound of resin.
Put the sal soda, lime, and water on the fire, and let it come to
the boiling point, then set it away over night to settle; pour off the
liquid, place it over the fire, add the grease and resin, and boil slowly
until fit for moulding, which will be in about two hours; pour out into
a tub or tight box, and when cool cut it into bars. The above quantity
will make twenty-three pounds of the best hard soap at a cost of four
or five cents per pound.
Lime in its best state is called " quick-lime " ; but when exposed
to the air it becomes a powder, has less strength, and is called slacked
lime.
552 IN THE KITCHEN.
HARD SOAP, NO. 1.
Five pounds of grease.
Twelve quarts of soft water.
One box of saponifier.
Put the grease and water in a kettle, and when melted knock off
the top of the box of saponifier, and throw in box and all; boil over a
slow fire for three or four hours until it becomes ropy, then throw in
ten cents worth of borax; let it all boil half an hour, then throw in a
handful of salt, stir well, and put it into a tub to, harden; cut in pieces,
lay them separately to dry. If any of the soap sticks to the side of
the pot pour in a little water, stir well, and let it boil, and it will be
nice soft soap.
HARD SOAP, NO. 2.
Six quarts of soft soap.
One pint of salt.
A quarter of a pound of resin.
Melt and scald the ingredients together, and put it aside to cool.
"When hard cut it, throw away the lye that has settled at, the bottom,
and melt the soap again to refine it. Pour it in. a, small tub, and when
hard cut it in bars.
COLD SOFT SOAP.
One and a quarter pounds of clean, melted; grease.
One gallon of lye, strong enough to bear an egg.
Mix them together in a barrel in the cellar, and. stir it for a few
minutes every clay until you find that you have good soap.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 533
TO CLEAR A ROOM OF MOSQUITOES.
Burn in a tin plate, over the gas or a candle, a piece of gum-cam-
phor about one third the size of an egg, being careful that it does not
ignite. The smoke will fill the room and expel the mosquitoes.
TO DISINFECT A ROOM.
Burn a piece of coarse brown paper on an old dustpan or in a
kettle ; the flame consumes the impurities of the air. Dried apple skins
burned in the same way are excellent, but neither save the necessity for
ventilation.
CEMENT FOE, SEALING CORKS.
Melt one part tallow and three of resin together; when partly
cooled turn the well-corked bottle (the end of the cork cut even with
the bottle) upside down; give it one or two turns in the cement, turn
back, and leave it to cool.
TO PURIFY A SINK
To one pound of common, copperas that can be bought for a
few cents a pound, put one gallon of boiling water, and when dis-
solved pour the liquid into the sink or drain, or wherever required. It
must be remembered that the copperas is poisonous.
AUNT SARAH'S RECEIPT FOR CLEANING SILVER.
Rub the silver with a piece of an old soft napkin, moistened with
a little olive oil, then rub it well with calcined magnesia^. using a brush
where necessary, and afterwards with a clean, soft chamois.
551 IN THE KITCHEN.
Aunt Sarah cleans her silver in this way once a fortnight, and its
brightness is the admiration of all her friends.
George Dandy's silver is also beautifully bright. He pulverizes
rotten-stone, sifts it through tarlatan, mixes it with sweet oil, and rubs
it thoroughly all over the silver, then washes the silver in hot soap-
suds, polishes it with soft towels, rubs it lightly with Tiffany's Rouge
Powder, mixed with water, and applied with a sponge, rubs it dry with
the bare hand, washes it again with hot soapsuds, and polishes with
chamois.
TO TAKE RUST FROM STEEL.
Cover the steel with sweet-oil, well rubbed in. In forty-eight hours
rub it with finely-powdered, unslacked lime until the rust disappears.
TO REMOVE PAINT FROM GLASS. - ,
*
Dissolve soda in very hot water, and wash with a soft flannel.
Glass should never be scraped with an ordinary knife, but with a little
tool used by glaziers, called a putty-knife. Paint is easily removed
without the least injury to the glass.
TO CLEAN STRAW MATTING.
Put a pint of salt in a pail of warm water and give the matting a
thorough washing. It may be done with a mop, one breadth at a time,
and wiped dry.
TO BRIGHIEN FURNITURE AND REMOVE SPOTS.
Two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil.
One tablespoonful of vinegar.
Half a tablespoonful of turpentine.
Use with a bit of flannel.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEEPTS. 555
WATERPROOF BLACKING FOR BOOTS.
Two ounces of beeswax.
Two ounces of tallow.
Two ounces of spermaceti or paraffine.
One tablespoonful of lamp-black.
Melt all the ingredients together, and stir well. Apply warm, with
a brush, and when cold polish as with ordinary blacking. For the
spermaceti keep the little ends of candles.
SOFT POMATUM.
Mrs. Breck.
One and a half ounces of almond-oil.
Two ounces of castor oil.
Three drachms of beeswax. q
Twenty drops of oil of lavender.
Forty drops of oil of burgundy.
Melt slowly together the almond and castor oil with the beeswax,
and stir until cool; then aid the oil of burgundy and lavender; mix
them all well together; put in small jars, cover closely.
VIOLET PERFUME.
Put half an ounce of orris-root, broken in small pieces, in a bottle
with two ounces of alcohol; cork it tight and shake well. After four
or five days a few drops of this on a handkerchief will leave the odor
of fresh violets.
FLOUR PASTE.
One gill of flour.
One gill of cold water.
55G
Itf THE KITCHE2T.
Two gills of boiling water.
Pour the cold water slowly on the flour, stirring well, then stir in
the boiling water, and let the paste boil until as thick as desired.
A PICTURE SCREEN.
Take the pictures from the torn books that the children have thrown
aside, and from illustrated papers; also the old photographs that have
been pushed out of albums and accumulated in drawers, and bright
roses and carnations from bits of cretonne; cut them out very neatly;
the photographs must be soaked from the cards, and the background
may be cut out or not. "When the collection is sufficiently large, have
the carpenter make a frame about three feet wide a,nd four and a half
high, larger if preferred; cover it on both sides with stout factory cot-
ton stretched as tight as possible, and tacked at the top, bottom, and
sides; make starch as thick as for shirt-bosoms; take a painter's brush
and saturate the cloth with the hot starch as evenly as possible. When
dry the pictures may.be put on with flour paste; arrange them taste-
fully; the largest, most striking picture should go in the centre. "When
dry, soak a sheet of Cooper's isinglass, and dissolve it in water enough
to make it like a thin varnish; put a coat of this over the screen and
when dry another coat, and when that is dry, give it one coat of white
varnish. The sides and top may be finished with a narrow moulding
of black walnut.
PRESERVING FLOWERS IN SAND.
Take the finest river or lake sand, and wash it perfectly clean ;
heat it, and when very hot, mix it thoroughly with stearic acid; to fifty
pounds of sand half a pound of the acid. Let it cool, take a small
sieve and place it in a pan. Pour in enough sand to hold the flowers
MISCELLANEOUS EEOEIPTS. 557
in position in the sieve, not covering them ; then with a sheet of paper
in the form of a funnel, carefully let the sand pass between, around, and
over the flowers, covering them about half an inch deep. Place them
where there will be an even temperature of about seventy degrees.
The length of time which they must. remain in the sand depends on
the thickness of the leaves and petals, varying from seven to twelve or
more hours, as may be found best. "When they have remained long
enough raise the sieve carefully, and let the sand run out, leaving the
flowers perfectly dried. By this process the color and. shape of the
flowers are preserved, and they will continue _ beautiful for many
months.
TO PRESERVE AUTUMN LEAVES.
Have a board about eighteen inches square ; lay over it two or three
thicknesses of yellow paper. Have a warm flat-iron and a caketef yel-
low wax. Place a leaf on the paper, pass the iron over the wax and
iron the leaf on both sides until dry; the iron must not be so hot as to
make a hissing sound on the leaf. After ironing several leaves, there
will be so much wax on the paper that to iron the leaf on one side will
be sufficient.
TO KEEP CUT FLOWERS FRESH.
To a vase of flowers put half a teaspoonful of soda in the water,
TO REVIVE WITHERING FLOWERS.
Take them from the vase, throw out the cold water, and replace it
with hot water, in which you can barely hold your finger; put in the
flowers immediately. The effect is wonderful.
558 EST THE KITCHEN".
TO STRAIN HONEY.
There are often ends of honeycomb left from the beautiful pieces
served at table. When these accumulate, it is best to melt and strain
them ; put them in a tin cup in an open oven, and when.melted, strain
through a piece of coarse book-muslin. If there are any bits of " bee
bread " they will remain in the muslin, .while the honey and wax run
through. When the honey is cold remove the cake of wax from the
mt>
top, wash it well in cold water, melt it, and mould in a thimble or in an
egg-cup; this will be useful in the work-basket, and the honey will be
found an excellent addition to hot biscuit. .
TO KEEP THE RIND AND JUICE OF LEMONS,
(rrate the rind and mix it with an equal quantity of sugar; bottle,
cork, and seal. Squeeze and strain the juice, and to a pint allow one
and a quarter pounds of sugar; leave it a day or two in an open vessel
then skim, bottle, cork, and seal.
COLD CREAM.
M, W. M.
One ounce of white wax.
One ounce of spermaceti.
One ounce of mutton-tallow (free from kidney fat).
Two ounces of almond oil (sweet almond).
Two ounces of glycerine.
Twelve drops of attar of roses.
, Melt all slowly together in an earthen vessel; pour into a soup-
plate or bowl, and beat with a silver fork until perfectly white and
light; then, while it is still warm, put in small earthen pots, and cover.
FOK ADDITIONAL KECLIPTS.
559
560 FOB, ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
FOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 561
562
TOR ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
HO, FOR the picnic! 563
ECO, FOR THE PICNIC I
WHAT WE SHALT, TAKE, AND HOW WE SHALL TAKE IT.
The tumblers, cups and saucers, plates, knives, forks, and napkins
should be packed by themselves, and be in the care of one person, who
should take the responsibility of bringing them all home again. In
using bottles for milk and cream, this is a good way to secure the
cork, after pressing it firmly in: Take a strong, rather fine twine eight
or ten inches long, make a loose slip-knot in the middle, adjust the
lower part around the neck of the bottle, and let the loop rest on the
top of the cork; make it firm by drawing the ends, then tie them tight
on the top of the cork, directly over the loop. Make a slip-knot in
this way: Form a loop around three of your fingers by simply crossing
the twine; slip out the fingers, and from the upper half of the twine,
close by the crossing, draw through another loop the size of the first;
the first loop goes around the neck of the bottle, while the second rests
on the cork; the ends are then drawn, and tied, as above. "We will
provide for a party of twelve, and making due allowance for appetites
sharpened by the open air, and the excitement of a busy, merry day in
the woods, we give eight bills of fare from which a choice may be
made. A block of ice a foot square, wrapped in old carpet, is always
necessary.
L
A glass can of lemon-juice and sugar, in the proportion of one gill
of juice to half a pound of sugar. One and a half pints of ground
564: IN THE KITCHEN.
coffee in a coarse white flannel bag (tie the bag an inch above the
coffee, and place it, with other things, in a four-quart tin coffee-pot, for
boiling the coffee). A pint of sweet cream for the water in a well-
corked bottle ; this, with the lemon, and paper for lighting the fire, may
be packed in a six-quart tin pail, to be used for spring-water. Twenty-
four sandwiches, four inches long by three wide ; if made with ham, it
should be grated or chopped. Two loaves of corn-bread just from the
oven. A half-pound roll of butter in a small tin box laid next the ice,
inside the carpet. Two glasses of orange marmalade or a can of black-
berry jam.
When it is time to prepare for lunch pour three quarts of water in
the coffee-pot, and put it on the coals; when it boils drop in the bag
of coffee and let it boil fifteen or twenty minutes. While the coffee
is boiling spread the table-cloth, arrange everything in beautiful order,
and have a pail of ice-water in readiness. Spread shawls and water-
proofs on the grass, as these picnic repasts are taken in Oriental style.
2.
Sweet potatoes; build the fire over a flat stone; when burned to
coals, rake it off, wrap the potatoes in wet brown paper, cover them with
sand, and rebuild the fire. Birds may be cooked in the same way.
Bacon and a frying-pan: slice the bacon very thin, cut off the rind,
and fry it crisp. Eggs : scrambled in the pan, after the bacon is fried.
Coffee, butter, bread.
3.
Chocolate: make it at home, and carry it in a covered tin-pail, in
which it can be reheated. This must be done over a moderate fire, to
prevent scorching; or the pail may be set in an old pan with a little
water, made to boil fast, as there is then no danger of scorching. But-
tered biscuit, ajar of baked pears, fresh gingerbread, cheese.
HO, FOR THE PICNIC ! 5G5
Sardines, cold roast chicken, bread, butter, dried apples stewed
with black raspberries, a loaf of bread-cake, a tin tea-pot, and two and
a half gills of tea, which will make three quarts. Do not put it in the
tea-pot until the water boils ; let it steep a few minutes, but do not let
it boil again.
5.
Clams : these may be boiled in the shell in a small quantity of
water, or they may be baked; pepper and salt, coffee, pickles, bread,
butter, cold tongue, dried stewed peaches, raspberry vinegar.
6.
Green corn : boil or roast it, pepper and salt, cold broiled chicken,
cold boiled ham, bread, butter, baked apples, gingersnaps. Tea or
coffee.
7.
Cold Frigadel, sandwiches, cold, hard-boiled eggs, buttered bread,
pickles, sponge cake, quince marmalade. Tea or coffee.
8.
A pot of pork and beans just from the oven; vinegar, pepper, and
salt, cold roast beef, pickles, baked sweet apples, cream, butter, fresh
rusk, coffee.
566
IN THE KITCHEN".'
SELECTION'S FOR DINNERS.
SHOWING WHAT MEATS AND VEGETABLES SHOULD BE SERVED TOGETHER
Mock Terrapin Soup.
Boast Beef. Chili Sauce.
Potatoes roasted with the Beef.
Fried Apples or Tomatoes.
Macaroni or Okra.
Indian Pudding.
Clam Soup.
Boast Mutton. Currant Jelly.
Winter Squash.
Cauliflower.
Boiled Potatoes.
Apple Charlotte.
White Soup.
Boast Lamb. Currant Jelly.
Peas or Asparagus.
Cymblins or Beets.
Potatoes.
Bice in Moulds, with Sweetmeats.
Mutton Soup.
Boiled Mutton. Caper Sauce.
Turnips on Carrots.
Salsltty or Egg-Plant.
Potatoes.
Warrener's Pudding.
Clear Beef Soup.
Boast Pork.
Stewed Apples.
Onions or Turnips.
Potatoes.
Apple Dumpling.
White Soup.
Boast Veal. Horse-Badish.
Parsnips.
Potatoes.
Spinach.
Bolster of Canned or any other Fruit.
Beef Soup.
Corn-Beef. Tomato Soy.
Cabbage.
Beets or Carrots.
Potatoes.
Bice Pudding.
Tomato Soup.
Pork and Beans.
Beefsteak.
Cold Slaw.
Potatoes.
Apple or Dried Peach Pie.
SELECTIONS FOR DINNEKS.
567
Turtle Bean Soup.
Beef ok Mutton Stew.
Parsnips.
Tomatoes on Cold Slaw.
Potatoes.
Dried Fruit Pudding.
Oyster or Clam Soup.
Boiled Turkey. Celery.
Turnips.
Canned Corn.
Potatoes.
Tip-top Pudding.
Beep Soup.
Roast Duck or Goose.
Stewed Apple or Cranberry.
" Celery or Onions.
Potatoes.
Quiver Pudding.
Mulligatawney Soup.
Boast Turkey. Celery or Pickle's.
Cranberries.
Winter Squash.
Potatoes Mashed and Browned.
Eve's Pudding.
White Soup.
Boast Chicken. Pickles.
Corn or Egg-Plant.
Okra with Tomato.
Potatoes.
Jim Crow, or Pain Perdu.
Chicken Soup.
Boiled Chicken. Celery.
Mashed Potatoes.
Salsify with Cream.
Macaroni or Bice.
Tapioca Pudding.
Mock Turtle Soup.
Boiled or Baked Pish. Cucumbers.
Boiled Leg of Mutton. Caper Sauce.
Boiled Tongue garnished with Rice.
New Potatoes dressed with Cream, or
Mashed Potatoes browned.
Cymblins or Turnips.
Beets, Carrots, or Salsify.
String Beans or Canned Corn.
Salad of Lettuce or Asparagus ; or Fried
Oysters and Dressed Celery.
Pie-plant Charlotte or Apple Charlotte.
Ice Cream, Cake, and Sweetmeats.
Pruit and Nuts.
Coffee.
Pea Soup.
Cold Pish dressed with Mayonnaise and
garnished with the Small Hearts of
Lettuce.
Fried Chickens.
Boiled Ham.
Peas.
New Potatoes dressed with Cream.
Beets.
Cymblins.
Macaroni.
Custard with Caramel.
Currant or Red Raspberry Ick.
Fruit and Nuts.
Coffee.
568 IN THE KITCHEN.
Raw Oysters on the Half Shell, with Lemon.
Calf's Head Soup.
Fisn.
Vol au Vent of Oysters and Sweetbreads. Boiled Mutton and Filet de B<euf.
Potatoes, Carrots dressed with Cream, Baked Tomatoes.
Macaroni with Dressed Lettuce.
Pastry.
Ices.
Fruit and Nuts.
Coffee in the Drawing-Room.
HOW A PIECE OF ROAST BEEF AND A BOILED LEG OF MUTTON MAY SERVE A
SMALL FAMILY FOR A WEEK
Sunday. — Boast beef, hot or cold.
Monday. — Potato soup and a pot-pie made of some of the beef.
Tuesday. — Mutton soup and boiled mutton.
Wednesday. — Tomato soup and cold joint of mutton.
Thursday- — Soup from the beef bones, and a savory hash of potato and beef, browned
in a loaf.
Friday. — Fish, and a pie of mutton and potato.
Saturday. — A soup from the mutton bones, and a haricot of the rest of the mutton,
•with <carrots. In winter the earrots miist be stewed two hours; this dish, so delightful when
w;ell made, has no merit unless the carrots are so soft that the slices barely keep in form.
In making the soups crush the bones (the more meat that adheres
to £heim ihe better), put them in the kettle with all the bits of gristle
and *Mn^ pour in from two to four pints of cold water, cover, and let it
simmer for several hours; then strain, and add boiled tomato and
grated onion, or soft boiled and chopped carrots, or soft rice, or okra
and faamatOg season to taste, and boil slowly for three quarters of an
hour- Sery<e very hot.
AXUDITTOINTAX, RECEIPTS.
TO CLEAR STOCK.
The day after it is made take off the grease carefully, and to about
four quarts of the thick jelly add five eggs (the whites, yolks, and
shells), a large carrot, and a pound of raw lean beef, both cut in small
pieces; mix all thoroughly together; put it in a soup-kettle on the
back of the range and let it simmer for two or three hours. Strain it,
and it will be found clear and of beautiful color.
The best strainer is of tin, funnel-shaped, with a handle.
CONSOMME.
Five pounds of lean beef.
Four quarts of cold water.
Two bay leaves.
A small head of celery.
One large carrot.
Two onions.
Half a turnip.
Cut the vegetables, put the whole in a soup-kettle, cover closely,
and let it simmer seven hours, when it may be strained, and seasoned to
the taste.
POTAQE A LA ROYALE.
To the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add a little more than their
bulk of cream or milk, a little salt and white pepper; pour it in a small
570 IN" THE KITCHEN.
tin or earthen dish an inch or two deep with straight sides; place this
in another dish in which there is a little hot water, and bake in so mod-
erate an oven that it will neither brown nor bubble. Place it on ice,
and when perfectly cold cut in slices half an inch thick, and then in
dice or in fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter; put them in the tureen,
pour in boiling consomme very gently, and serve at once.
FROZEN SWEET POTATOES.
Sweet potatoes, though frozen hard as stones, preserve their flavor
and firmness if baked at once without being thawed. Clean them
with a brush or dry towel, put them in the heated oven, and bake. If
thawed, even in cold water, they are soft and worthless.
CLEANING FLUID.
J. OF D.
Half a pint of alcohol.
Two ounces of ammonia.
Half an ounce of Castile soap, shaved.
Two quarts of rain-water.
Shake the ingredients well together in a jug. After four or five
hours, shake them again ; then bottle and cork. Use it freely, with a
bit of flannel, to take grease from woollen cloth.
ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 571
CYMIINQS, OR SUMMER SQUASH, No. 2.
The cymlings must be so young that the rinds and seeds are tender.
Cut each one into several pieces, and boil in as little water as possible,
keeping the kettle closely covered. When a straw can be passed
through them pour off all the water and leave them uncovered, on the
back of the range, to dry for fifteen or twenty minutes ; then, without
mashing, stir in butter, pepper, and salt to the taste, with a little cream;
cover, stew two or three minutes, then serve at once.
MONADNOC PASTRY.
One pound of flour sifted.
Nine ounces of butter.
Seven ounces of good, firm lard.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
Half a pint of ice water.
This quantity will make three pies of ordinary size. The oven
should be hotter than for bread.
Rub the lard thoroughly, but lightly and quickly, into the flour,
being careful to keep the flour well between the hand and the lard.
Add the water, mixing with a knife; place the mass on the floured
board and roll it into a thin sheet; spot it with one third of the butter,
sift a little flour over it, and with the hands, touching it as lightly as
possible, roll it into a scroll; divide it in half, and divide one of the
halves into three equal parts for the lower crust of the pies; roll each
piece separately and cover the plates; the paste cut from the edge may
be returned to the rest of the pastry, which must now be rolled thin
and spotted with half the remaining butter; sift a little flour over it,
572 IN THE KITCHEN.
and fold it by lapping the four corners in the centre of the sheet; roll
it again into a thin sheet, spot it with the remaining butter, sift it with
flour, fold as before and roll it out, but this time not thin, as it must be
made into a short, thick scroll like a "bolster" or "roly-.poly" when it
is ready for use. For the cover of a pie, cut one third of the scroll,
flour both ends and roll it on the end to the desired thickness. To add
to the beauty of the pastry, roll it very thiu and put two or three
covers on a pie. This is excellent for squash pies and for all puddings
baked in pastry.
BRIDGET'S BISCUIT.
Peterboro', N. Y.
Half a pint of yeast.
One pint of new milk.
Four ounces of butter.
One tablespoonful of sugar. <-
One teaspoonful of salt.
Two pounds of flour.
The whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.
Make the yeast in this way : have ready in the half-pint measure,
half a Twin Bros, yeast-cake soaked in two tablespoonfuls of tepid
water; have six ounces of potato boiled and mashed fine; when luke-
warm mix it with the yeast and add sufficient tepid water to fill the
measure; mix well then pour it in a pint bowl and leave it to rise.
Warm the milk and butter together; add the sugar, the salt, and
enough of the flour to make a thick batter; then stir in the yeast and
leave it in a warm place to rise; when light add the egg; knead in the
rest of the flour and leave it to rise again; then roll out:, cut into small
biscuit, place them in buttered pans and when light, prick, and bake in
a quick oven.
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