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CORNELL LAB of ORNITHOLOGY
LIBRARY
AT SAPSUCKER WOODS
Illustration of Snowy Owl by Louis Agassiz Fuertes
TU
DATE DUE
Cornell University
Library
The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924090269915
AUDUBON AND HIS
JOURNALS
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOLUME THE SECOND
ITHOLOGY,
BORATORY OF ORN
iS SAPSUCKER WOCDS ROAD
ITHACA, NEW. YORK 14850
“ANUSNMOL 'N ‘f Ad “Vd “OD YALSAHO NI
‘€€gr ‘Ik AVN LOHS ‘NMONN WHAT NYNIONdS AINO AHL AO NOMNaNV ‘f “f Ad ONIMVAC GAHSINIANA NV Wows
(‘Hpuasumo3 ezidg Mon)
“ONILNOG SCQNASNMOL ‘IIGNASNMOL VZINGTEWA
AUDUBON AND HIS
JOURNALS
BY
MARIA R. AUDUBON
WITH ZOOLOGICAL AND OTHER NOTES BY
ELLIOTT COUES
With Thirty-seven Illustrations, including Three hitherto
unpublished Bird Drawings, and Ten
Portraits of Audubon
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOLUME THE SECOND
LONDON
JOHN C. NIMMO
14 KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND
MDCCCXCVIII
Copyright, 1897, by Charles Scribner's Sons,
for the United States of America.
CONTENTS
VotumME I]
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS (continued) .
EPISODES :
LOUISVILLE IN KENTUCKY.
THE OHIO :
FISHING IN THE OHIO
A WILD HORSE .
BREAKING UP OF THE ICE
THE PRAIRIE
THE REGULATORS
THE EARTHQUAKE
THE HURRICANE
COLONEL BOONE.
NATCHEZ IN 1820
THE LOST PORTFOLIO
THE ORIGINAL PAINTER
THE COUGAR
THe RUNAWAY
A TOUGH WALK FOR A YOUTH
HOSPITALITY IN THE WOODS
NIAGARA
MEADVILLE . :
THE BURNING OF THE FORESTS
A LONG CALM AT SEA
STILL BECALMED
GREAT EGG HARBOR .
THE GREAT PINE SWAMP .
THE Lost ONE .
THE LIVE-OAKERS
vi CONTENTS
EPISODES : PAGE
SPRING GARDEN . . F A 2 ‘ : - 333
DEATH OF A PIRATE . ‘ : : : : » 339
THE WRECKERS OF FLORIDA . ‘ ‘ * “ » 345
St. Joun’s RIVER IN FLORIDA. ‘ i ‘ 5 352)
THE FLorIDA Keys. I ‘ : : ‘ . 358
THE FLoRIDA Keys. II ; 3 ; ; - 365
THE TURTLERS . é : = - - 371
THE FORCE OF THE WATERS . : . 380
JOURNEY IN NEW BRUNSWICK AND MAINE . . 387
A Moose Hunt. : é ; . 393
LABRADOR . , F 3 ; 401
THE EGGERS OF LABRADOR . 406
THE SQUATTERS OF LABRADOR 4 F . All
Cop FISHING ‘ , ; - ‘ ‘ - 418
A BALL IN NEWFOUNDLAND. : é F : . 426
THE Bay OF FUNDY . : : : : : + 431
A FLooD.. 2 : : ‘ i : ; : : 437
THE SQUATTERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI ; ‘ - 443
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE NAVIGATION OF THE MISSISSIPPI 449
KENTUCKY SPORTS. : : : . ; - 455
THE TRAVELLER AND THE POLE-CAT . 462
DEER HUNTING . : ; . . : Z - 466
THE ECCENTRIC NATURALIST é ; 473
SCIPIO AND THE BEAR ; ; : 481
A KENTUCKY BARBECUE . : : s . 486
A Raccoon HUNT IN KENTUCKY . : : ‘ . 490
PITTING OF WOLVES . P i : : ‘ ‘ - 497
THE OPOSSUM. : ; ‘ ‘ : : ; . 501
A MAPLE-SUGAR CAMP. . : é , . » 506
THE WHITE PERCH AND ITS FavoriTE Balt / «509
THE AMERICAN SUN PERCH . é : A * 515
My STYLE OF DRAWING BIRDS : a B22
INDEX . : . . wis Ag . : i : : » 529
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
VOL. II
PAGE
EMBERIZA TOWNSENDII (NOW SPIZA TOWNSENDII), TOWNS-
END’S BUNTING H : . ; . : . Frontispiece
From an unfinished drawing by J. J. Audubon of the only specimen
ever known. Shot May 11, 1833, in Chester County, Pa., by
J. K. Townsend.
AUDUBON . : . : . . q "i 6 : 84
From the pencil sketch by Isaac Sprague, 1842. In the possession of
the Sprague family, Wellesley Hills, Mass.
CAMP AT THE THREE MAMELLES . ‘ : y 118
From a drawing by Audubon, hitherto unpublished.
CAMP ON THE MISSOURI . , : , s 160
From a drawing by Isaac Sprague.
Mrs. AUDUBON. 1854 . ‘ 7 . ‘ z . 176
From a daguerreotype.
AUDUBON. 1839 i wi ee 234
Painted in Edinburgh by J. W. Audubon.
VICTOR GIFFORD AUDUBON . 3 . Fi 274
Painted by Audubon about 1823.
JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON . ; : 310
Painted by Audubon about 1823.
TRINGA ALPINA (NOW PELIDNA ALPINA PACIFICA), RED-
BACKED SANDPIPER : 3 ‘ ‘ ‘ 3 ‘ 352
From the unpublished drawing by J. J. Audubon, November 24, 1831.
vill ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
AUDUBON. 1850. . : : ‘ ‘ . 406
Froma daguerreotype. Owned by Mrs. Elizabeth Berthoud Grimshaw.
VICTOR GIFFORD AUDUBON. 1853 . x . 456
JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON. 1853 . 486
OLD MILL AND MILLER’s COTTAGE AT MILL GROVE ON THE
PERKIOMEN CREEK é : , ‘ 4 3 , 524
From a photograph from W. H. Wetherill, Esq.
AUDUBON ‘ i : ; . , ‘ : : - 526
From a pencil sketch after death by John Woodhouse Audubon,
January 28, 1851.
BOWIE KNIFE F . : ; . 527
Presented by Henry Carleton.
FACSIMILES OF DIPLOMAS. : : . Atend of volume
La Société Linnéenne de Paris. 6 Novembre, 1823.
Lyceum of Natural History, New York. January 13, 1824.
Société d’Histoire Naturelle de Paris. 5 Decembre, 1828.
American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Massachusetts.
November Io, 1830.
Royal Society of Edinburgh. March 5, 1831.
Royal Jennerian Society, London. July 15, 1836.
Literary and Historical Society of Quebec. November 19,
1836. :
Western Academy of Natural Sciences, St. Louis, Mo.
April 17, 1843.
Natural History Society of Montreal. March 29, 1847.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS
1843
( Continued)
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS
1843
( Continued)
Fune 4, Sunday. We have run pretty well, though the
wind has been tolerably high; the country we have passed
this day is somewhat better than what we saw yesterday,
which, as I said, was the poorest we have seen. No
occurrence of interest has taken place. We passed this
morning the old Riccaree! Village, where General Ash-
ley? was so completely beaten as to lose eighteen of his
1 “ We halted for dinner at a village which we suppose to have belonged
to the Ricaras. It is situated in a low plain on the river, and consists of
about eighty lodges of an octagon form, neatly covered with earth, placed
as close to each other as possible, and picketed round.” (“ Lewis and Clark,”
ed. 1893.) :
“The village of the Rikaras, Arickaras, or Rikarees, for the name is vari-
ously written, is between the 46th and 47th parallels of north latitude, and
1,430 miles above the mouth of the Missouri. . . . It was divided into two
portions, about eighty yards apart, being inhabited by two distinct bands.
The whole extended about three quarters of a mile along the river bank, and
was composed of conical lodges, that looked like so many small hillocks,
being wooden frames intertwined with osier, and covered with earth.”
(“ Astoria,” W. Irving.)
“From the hills we had a fine prospect over the bend of the river, on
which the villages of the Arikkaras are situated. The two villages of this
tribe are on the west bank, very near each other, but separated by a small
stream. They consist of a great number of clay huts, round at top, with a
square entrance in front, and the whole surrounded with a fence of stakes,
which were much decayed and in many places thrown down.” (“ Travels in
North America,” p. 166, Maximilian, Prince of Wied.)
2 “ General Ashley of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements
in the prosecution of his enterprises had rendered him famous in the Far
4 AUDUBON
men, with the very weapons and ammunition that he had
trafficked with the Indians of that village, against all the
remonstrances of his friends and interpreters; yet he said
that it proved fortunate for him, as he turned his steps
towards some other spot, where he procured one hundred
packs of Beaver skins for a mere song. We stopped to
cut wood at an old house put up for winter quarters, and
the wood being ash, and quite dry, was excellent. We
are now fast for the night at an abandoned post, or fort,
of the Company, where, luckily for us, a good deal of
wood was found cut. We saw only one Wolf, and a few
small gangs of Buffaloes. Bell shot a Bunting which re-
sembles Henslow’s, but we have no means of comparing
it at present. We have collected a few plants during our
landing. The steam is blowing off, and therefore our
day’s run is ended. When I went to bed last night it
was raining smartly, and Alexis did not go off, as he did
wish. By the way, I forgot to say that along with the
three Prairie Marmots, he brought also four Spoon-billed
Ducks, which we ate at dinner to-day, and found delicious.
Bell saw many Lazuli Finches this morning. Notwith-
standing the tremendous shaking of our boat, Sprague man-
aged to draw four figures of the legs and feet of the Wolf
shot by Bell yesterday, and my own pencil was not idle.
Fune 5, Monday. Alexis went off in the night some-
time, and came on board about three o’clock this morning;
he had seen nothing whatever, except the traces of Beavers
and of Otters, on Beaver Creek, which, by the way, he had
to cross on a raft. Speaking of rafts, I am told that one of
these, made of two bundles of rushes, about the size of a
man’s body, and fastened together by a few sticks, is quite
sufficient to take two men and two packs of Buffalo robes
across this muddy river. In the course of the morning
West in conjunction with Mr. [Andrew ?] Henry, of the Missouri Trading
Co., established a post on the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822.”
(“ Capt. Bonneville,” W. Irving.)
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 5
we passed Cannon Ball River,! and the very remarkable
bluffs about it, of which we cannot well speak until we
have stopped theresand examined their nature. We saw
two Swans alighting on the prairie at a considerable dis-
tance. We stopped to take wood at Bowie’s settlement,
at which place his wife was killed by some of the Riccaree
Indians, after some Gros Ventres had assured him that
such would be the case if he suffered his wife to go out of
the house. She went out, however, on the second day,
and was shot with three rifle-balls. The Indians took parts
of her hair and went off. She was duly buried; but the
Gros Ventres returned some time afterwards, took up the
body, and carried off the balance of her hair. They, how-
ever, reburied her; and it was not until several months
had elapsed that the story came to the ears of Mr. Bowie.
We have also passed Apple Creek,? but the chief part is
yet to be added. At one place where the bluffs were
high, we saw five Buffaloes landing a few hundred yards
above us on the western side; one of them cantered off
1 “ We reached the mouth of Le Boulet, or Cannon Ball River. This
stream rises in the Black Mts. and falls into the Missouri; its channel is
about 140 feet wide, though the water is now confined within 4o; its name
is derived from the numbers of perfectly round stones on the shore and
in the bluffs just above.” (‘‘ Lewis and Clark,” ed. 1893.)
“We came to an aperture in the chain of hills, from which this river,
which was very high, issues. On the north side of the mouth there was a
steep, yellow clay wall; andon the southern, a flat, covered with poplars and
willows. This river has its name from the singular regular sandstone balls
which are found in its banks, and in those of the Missouri in its vicinity.
They are of various sizes, from that of a musket ball to that of a large
bomb, and lie irregularly on the bank, or in the strata, from which they often
project to half their thickness; when the river has washed away the earth
they then fall down, and are found in great numbers on the bank. Many of
them are rather elliptical, others are more flattened, others flat on one side
and convex on the other. Of the perfectly spherical balls, I observed some
two feet in diameter. A mile above the mouth of Cannon Ball River I saw
no more of them.” (‘Travels in North America,” p. 167, Maximilian,
Prince of Wied.)
2 Present name of the stream which falls into the Missouri from the east,
about five miles below Fort Rice; Chewah or Fish River of Lewis and
Clark; Shewash River of Maximilian. Audubon is now approaching
Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. —E.C.
6 AUDUBON
immediately, and by some means did reach the top of the
hills, and went out of our sight; the four others ran, waded,
and swam at different places, always«above us, trying to
make their escape. At one spot they attempted to climb
the bluff, having unconsciously passed the place where
their leader had made good his way, and in their attempts
to scramble up, tumbled down, and at last became so
much affrighted that they took to the river for good, with
the intention to swim to the shore they had left. Unfor-
tunately for them, we had been gaining upon them; we
had all been anxiously watching them, and the moment
they began to swim we were all about the boat with guns
and rifles, awaiting the instant when they would be close
under our bows. The moment came; I was on the lower
deck among several of the people with guns, and the
firing was soon heavy; but not one of the Buffaloes was
stopped, although every one must have been severely hit
and wounded. Bell shot a load of buckshot at the head of
one, which disappeared entirely under the water for per-
haps a minute. I sent a ball through the neck of the last
of the four, but all ineffectually, and off they went, swim-
ming to the opposite shore; one lagged behind the rest,
but, having found footing on a sand-bar, it rested awhile, and
again swam off to rejoin its companions. They all reached
the shore, but were quite as badly off on that side as they
had been on the other, and their difficulties must have
been great indeed; however, in a short time we had passed
them. Mr. Charles Primeau,! who is a good shot, and who
killed the young Buffalo bull the other day, assured me
that it was his opinion the whole of these would die before
1 Charles Primeau was born at St. Louis, Mo., entered the American
Fur Company as clerk, and continued in that service many years. Later he
helped to form an opposition company under the name of Harvey, Primeau,
& Co., which did business for a few years, until, like most of the smaller
concerns, it was absorbed by the American Fur Co. He then went back to
his former employers, and afterward was engaged by the U. S. Government
as Indian interpreter, long holding this position, In 1896 he was living in
the vicinity of Fort Yates. — E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 7
sundown, but that Buffaloes swimming were a hundred
times more difficult to kill than those on shore. I have
been told also, that a Buffalo shot by an Indian, in the
presence of several whites, exhibited some marks on the
inside of the skin that looked like old wounds, and that on
close examination they found no less than six balls in its
paunch. Sometimes they will run a mile after having been
struck through the heart; whilst at other times they will
fall dead without such desperate shot. Alexis told me
that once he shot one through the thigh, and that it fell
dead on the spot. We passed this afternoon a very curious
conical mound of earth, about which Harris and I had
some curiosity, by which I lost two pounds of snuff, as he
was right, and I was wrong. We have seen Geese and
Goslings, Ravens, Blue Herons, Bluebirds, Thrushes, Red-
headed Woodpeckers and Red-shafted ditto, Martins, an
immense number of Rough-winged Swallows about their
holes, and Barn Swallows. We heard Killdeers last even-
ing. Small Crested Flycatchers, Summer Yellow-birds,
Maryland Yellow-throats, House Wrens are seen as we pass
along our route; while the Spotted Sandpiper accompanies
us all along the river. Sparrow Hawks, Turkey Buzzards,
Arctic Towhee Buntings, Cat-birds, Mallards, Coots, Gad-
walls, King-birds, Yellow-breasted Chats, Red Thrushes, all
are noted as we pass. We have had a good day’s run;
it is now half-past ten. The wind has been cold, and
this evening we have had a dash of rain. We have seen
only one Wolf. We have heard some wonderful stories
about Indians and white men, none of which I can well
depend upon. We have stopped for the night a few miles
above where the “ Assiniboin ” ? steamer was burnt with all
her cargo uninsured, in the year 1835. I heard that after
she had run ashore, the men started to build a scow to
unload the cargo; but that through some accident the
1 The “ Assiniboin ” was the steamer on which Maximilian, Prince of
Wied, travelled down the Missouri in 1833,
8 AUDUBON
vessel was set on fire, and that a man and a woman who
alone had been left on board, walked off to the island,
where they remained some days unable to reach shore.
Fune 6, Tuesday. This morning was quite cold, and we
had a thick white frost on our upper deck. It was also
extremely cloudy, the wind from the east, and all about
us looked dismal enough. The hands on board seemed to
have been busy the whole of the night, for I scarcely slept
for the noise they made. We soon came to a very difficult
part of the river, and had to stop full three hours. Mean-
while the yawl went off to seek and sound for a channel,
whilst the wood-cutters and the carriers — who, by the way,
are called ‘“ charrettes ” 1 — followed their work, and we
‘gathered a good quantity of drift-wood, which burns like
straw. Our hopes of reaching the Mandan Village were
abandoned, but we at last proceeded on our way and passed
the bar; it was nearly dinner-time. Harris and Bell had
their guns, and brought two Arctic Towhee Buntings
and a Black-billed Cuckoo. They saw two large flocks of
Geese making their way westward. The place where we
landed showed many signs of Deer, Elk, and Buffaloes.
I saw trees where the latter had rubbed their heavy bodies
against the bark, till they had completely robbed the tree
of its garment. We saw several Red-shafted Woodpeckers,
and other birds named before. The Buffalo, when hunted on
horseback, does of carry its tail erect, as has been repre-
sented in books, but close between the legs; but when you
see a Buffalo bull work its tail sideways in a twisted rolling
fashion, ze take care of him, as it is a sure sign of his in-
tention to rush against his pursuer’s horse, which is very
dangerous, both to hunter and steed. As we proceeded I
saw two fine White-headed Eagles alighting on their nest,
1 This is an interesting note of the early French name on the Missouri
of the persons about a boat whom we should call “stevedores,” or “ roust-
abouts.” The French word charette, or charrette, occurs also as a personal
name, and it will be remembered that there was a town of La Charette on
the Lower Missouri. — E. C. ’
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 9
where perhaps they had young—and how remarkably
late in the season this species does breed here! We also
saw a young Sandhill Crane, and on an open prairie four
Antelopes a few hundred yards off. Alexis tells me that at
this season this is a rare occurrence, as the females are
generally in the brushwood now; but in this instance the
male and three females were on open prairie. We have
passed what is called the Heart? River, and the Square
Hills, which, of course, are by no means square, but simply
more level than the generality of those we have passed for
upwards of three weeks. We now saw four barges be-
longing to our company, and came to, above them, as usual.
A Mr. Kipp, one of the partners, came on board; and
Harris, Squires, and myself had time to write each a short
letter to our friends at home. Mr. Kipp had a peculiar
looking crew who appeared not much better than a set of
bandits among the Pyrenees or the Alps; yet they seem
to be the very best sort of men for trappers and boatmen.
We exchanged four of our men for four of his, as the
latter are wanted at the Yellowstone. The country ap-
pears to Harris and to myself as if we had outrun the
progress of vegetation, as from the boat we observed oaks
scarcely in leaflets, whilst two hundred miles below, and
indeed at a much less distance, we saw the same timber in
nearly full leaf; flowers are also scarce. A single Wolf
was seen by some one on deck. Nothing can be possibly
keener than the senses of ‘hearing and sight, as well as of
smell, in the Antelope. Not one was ever known to jump
up close to a hunter; and the very motion of the grasses,
as these are wafted by the wind, will keep them awake
and on the alert. Immediately upon the breaking up of the
ice about the Mandan Village, three Buffaloes were seen
floating down on a large cake; they were seen by Mr.
1 Heart River, the stream which falls into the Missouri near the town of
Mandan, about opposite Bismarck, N. Dak. Here the river is now bridged
by the Northern Pacific Railroad, which crosses the Missouri from Bismarck,
and follows up Heart River for some distance. — E. C
10 AUDUBON
Primeau from his post, and again from Fort Pierre. How
much further the poor beasts travelled, no one can tell. It
happens not infrequently, when the river is entirely closed in
with ice, that some hundreds of Buffaloes attempt to cross;
their aggregate enormous weight forces the ice to break,
and the whole of the gang are drowned, as it is impossible
for these animals to climb. over the surrounding sharp
edges of the ice. We have seen not less than three nests
of White-headed Eagles thisday. We are fast ashore about
sixteen miles belowthe Mandan Villages, and will, in all prob-
ability, reach there to-morrow morning at an early hour.
It is raining yet, and the day has been a most unpleasant one.
Fune 7, Wednesday. We had a vile night of rain, and
wind from the northeast, which is still going on, and likely
to continue the whole of this blessed day. Yesterday,
when we had a white frost, ice was found in the kettles of
Mr. Kipp’s barges. We reached Fort Clark! and the
Mandan Villages at half-past seven this morning. Great
guns were fired from the fort and from the “ Omega,” as our
captain took the guns from the “Trapper” at Fort Pierre.
The site of this fort appears a good one, though it is
placed considerably below the Mandan Village. We saw
some small spots cultivated, where corn, pumpkins, and
beans are grown. The fort and village are situated on the
high bank, rising somewhat to the elevation of a hill. The
Mandan mud huts are very far from looking poetical,
although Mr. Catlin has tried to render them so by placing
them in regular rows, and all of the same size and form,
which is by no means the case. But different travellers
have different eyes! We saw more Indians than at any
1“ Fort Clark came in sight, with a background of the blue prairie hills,
and with the gay American banner waving from the flag-staff. . . . The fort
is built on a smaller scale, on a plan similar to that of all the other trading
posts or forts of the company. Immediately behind the fort there were, in
the prairie, seventy leather tents of the Crows.” (Prince of Wied, p. 171.)
Fort Clark stood on the right bank of the Missouri, and thus across the
river from the original Fort Mandan built by Lewis and Clark in the fall of
1804, Maximilian has much to say of it and of Mr. Kipp.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS II
previous time since leaving St. Louis; and it is possible
that there are a hundred huts, made of mud, all looking
like so many potato winter-houses in the Eastern States.
As soon as we were near the shore, every article that could
conveniently be carried off was placed under lock and key,
and our division door was made fast, as well as those of our
own rooms. Even the axes and poles were put by. Our
captain told us that last year they stole his cap and his
shot-pouch and horn, and that it was through the inter-
ference of the first chief that he recovered his cap and
horn; but that a squaw had his leather belt, and would
not give itup. The appearance of these poor, miserable
devils, as we approached the shore, was wretched enough.
There they stood in the pelting rain and keen wind, covered
with Buffalo robes, red blankets, and the like, some par-
tially and most curiously besmeared with mud; and as
they came on board, and we shook hands with each of
them, I felt a clamminess that rendered the ceremony most
repulsive. Their legs and naked feet were covered with
mud. They looked at me with apparent curiosity, perhaps
on account of my beard, which produced the same effect
at Fort Pierre. They all looked very poor; and our cap-
tain says they are the ze plus ultra of thieves. It is said
there are nearly three thousand men, women, and children
that, during winter, cram themselves into these miser-
able hovels.. Harris and I walked to the fort about nine
o'clock. The walking was rascally, passing through mud
and water the whole way. The yard of the fort itself was
as bad. We entered Mr. Chardon’s own room, crawled up
a crazy ladder, and in a low garret I had the great pleasure
of seeing alive the Swift or Kit Fox which he has given to
me. It ran swiftly from one corner to another, and, when
approached, growled somewhat in the manner of a common
Fox. Mr. Chardon told me that good care would be taken
of it until our return, that it would be chained to render it
more gentle, and that I would find it an easy matter to take
12 AUDUBON
it along. I sincerely hope so. Seeing a remarkably fine
skin of a large Cross Fox! which I wished to buy, it was
handed over to me. After this, Mr. Chardon asked one of
the Indians to take us into the village, and particularly to
show us the “ Medicine Lodge.” We followed our guide
through mud and mire, even into the Lodge. We found
this to be, in general terms, like all the other lodges, only
larger, measuring twenty-three yards in diameter, with a
large squarish aperture in the centre of the roof, some six
or seven feet long by about four wide. We had entered
this curiosity shop by pushing aside a wet Elk skin stretched
on four sticks. Looking around, I saw a number of cala-
bashes, eight or ten Otter skulls, two very large Buffalo
skulls with the horns on, evidently of great age, and some
sticks and other magical implements with which none but
a “Great Medicine Man” is acquainted. During my sur-
vey there sat, crouched down on his haunches, an Indian
wrapped in a dirty blanket, with only his filthy head peeping
out. Our guide spoke to him; but he stirred not. Again,
at the foot of one of the posts that support the central por-
tion of this great room, lay a parcel that I took for a bun-
dle of Buffalo robes; but it moved presently, and from
beneath it half arose the emaciated body of a poor blind
Indian, whose skin was quite shrivelled; and our guide
made usssigns that he was about to die. We all shook
both hands with him; and he pressed our hands closely and
with evident satisfaction. He had his pipe and tobacco
pouch by him, and soon lay down again. We left this
abode of mysteries, as I was anxious to see the interior of
one of the common huts around; and again our guide led
us through mud and mire to his own lodge, which we
entered in the same way as we had done the other. All
1 This Fox was probably the cross variety of the Long-tailed Prairie
Fox, Vulpes macrourus of Baird, Stansbury’s Exped. Great Salt Lake, June,
1852, p. 309; Vulpes utah of Aud. and Bach. Quad. N. Am. iii, 1853, p. 255,
pl. 151 (originally published by them in Proc. Acad. Philad, July, 18 52,
p. 114).— E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 13
these lodges have a sort of portico that leads to the door,
and on the tops of most of them I observed Buffalo skulls.
This lodge contained the whole family of our guide —
several women and children, and another man, per-
haps a son-in-law or a brother. All these, except the
man, were on the outer edge of the lodge, crouching
on the ground, some suckling children; and at nearly
equal distances apart were placed berths, raised about
two feet above the ground, made of leather, and with
square apertures for the sleepers or occupants to enter.
The man of whom I have spoken was lying down in
one of these, which was all open in front. I walked up
to him, and, after disturbing his happy slumbers, shook
hands with him; he made signs for me to sit down; and
after Harris and I had done so, he rose, squatted himself
near us, and, getting out a large spoon made of boiled
Buffalo horn, handed it to a young girl, who brought a
great rounded wooden bowl filled with pemmican, mixed
with corn and some other stuff. I ate a mouthful or so of
it, and found it quite palatable; and Harris and the rest
then ate of it also. Bell was absent; we had seen nothing
of him since we left the boat. This lodge, as well as the
other, was dirty with water and mud; but I am told that in
dry weather they are kept cleaner, and much cleaning do
they need, most truly. A round, shallow hole was dug in
the centre for the fire; and from the roof descended over
this a chain, by the aid of which they do their cooking,
the utensil being attached to the chain when wanted. As
we returned towards the fort, I gave our guide a piece of
tobacco, and he appeared well pleased. He followed us
on board, and as he peeped in my room, and saw the
dried and stuffed specimens we have, he evinced a slight
degree of curiosity. Our captain, Mr. Chardon, and our
men have been busily engaged in putting ashore that por-
tion of the cargo designed for this fort, which in general
appearance might be called a poor miniature representa-
14 AUDUBON
tion of Fort Pierre. The whole country around was over-
grown with “Lamb’s quarters” (Chenopodium album),
which I have no doubt, if boiled, would take the place of
spinach in this wild and, to my eyes, miserable country,
the poetry of which lies in the imagination of those writers
who have described the “ velvety prairies ” and ‘‘ enchanted
castles” (of mud), so common where we now are. We
observed a considerable difference in the color of these
Indians, who, by the way, are almost all Riccarees; many
appeared, and in fact are, redder than others; they are
lank, rather tall, and very alert, but, as I have said before,
all look poor and dirty. After dinner we went up the
muddy bank again to look at the corn-fields, as the small
patches that are meanly cultivated are called. We found
poor, sickly looking corn about two inches high, that had
been represented to us this morning as full six inches high.
We followed the prairie, a very extensive one, to the hills,
and there found a deep ravine, sufficiently impregnated with
saline matter to answer the purpose of salt water for the
Indians to boil their corn and pemmican, clear and clean;
but they, as well as the whites at the fort, resort to the
muddy Missouri for their drinking water, the only fresh
water at hand. Nota drop of spirituous liquor has been
brought to this place for the last two years; and there can
be no doubt that on this account the Indians have become
more peaceable than heretofore, though now and then a
white man is murdered, and many horses are stolen. As
we walked over the plain, we saw heaps of earth thrown up
to cover the poor Mandans who died of the small-pox.
These mounds in many instances appear to contain the
remains of several bodies and, perched on the top, lies,
pretty generally, the rotting skull of a Buffalo. Indeed,
the skulls of the Buffaloes seem as if a kind of relation to
these most absurdly superstitious and ignorant beings. I
could not hear a word of the young Grizzly Bear of which
Mr. Chardon had spoken to me. He gave me his Buffalo
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 15
head-dress and other trifles—as he was pleased to call
them; all of which will prove more or less interesting
and curious to you when they reach Minniesland. He
presented Squires with a good hunting shirt and a few
other things, and to all of us, presented moccasins. We
collected a few round cacti;! and I saw several birds that
looked much the worse for the cold and wet weather we
have had these last few days. Our boat has been thronged
with Indians ever since we have tied to the shore; and it
is with considerable difficulty and care that we can stop
them from intruding into our rooms when we are there.
We found many portions of skulls lying on the ground,
which, perhaps, did at one period form the circles of them
spoken of by Catlin. All around the village is filthy be-
yond description. Our captain tells us that no matter
what weather we may have to-morrow, he will start at
daylight, even if he can only go across the river, to get
rid of these wolfish-looking vagabonds of Indians. I sin-
cerely hope that we may have a fair day and a long run,
so that the air around us may once more be pure and
fresh from the hand of Nature. After the Riccarees had
taken possession of this Mandan Village, the remains of
that once powerful tribe removed about three miles up the
river, and there have now fifteen or twenty huts, contain-
ing, of course, only that number of families. During the
worst periods of the epidemic which swept over this vil-
lage with such fury, many became maniacs, rushed to the
Missouri, leaped into its turbid waters, and were seen no
more. Mr. Primeau, wife, and children, as well as another
half-breed, have gone to the fort, and are to remain there
till further orders. The fort is in a poor condition, roofs
leaking, etc. Whilst at the fort this afternoon, I was
greatly surprised to see a tall, athletic Indian thrashing
1 No doubt the Mammillaria vivipara, a small globose species, quite
different from the common Ofuniza or prickly pear of the Missouri region.
—E.C.
16 AUDUBON
the dirty rascals about Mr. Chardon’s door most severely;
but I found on inquiry that he was called “the soldier,” ?
and that he had authority to do so whenever the Indians
intruded or congregated in the manner this canazlle had
done. After a while the same tall fellow came on board
with his long stick, and immediately began belaboring the
fellows on the lower guards; the latter ran off over the
planks, and scrambled up the muddy banks as if so many
affrighted Buffaloes. Since then we have been compara-
tively quiet; but I hope they will all go off, as the captain
is going to put the boat from the shore, to the full length
of our spars. The wind has shifted to the northward, and
the atmosphere has been so chilled that a House Swallow
was caught, benumbed with cold, and brought to me by
our captain. Harris, Bell, and I saw a Cliff Swallow take
refuge on board; but this was not caught. We have seen
Say’s Flycatcher, the Ground Finch, Cow Buntings, and a
few other birds. One of the agents arrived this afternoon
from the Gros Ventre, or Minnetaree Village, about twelve
miles above us. He is represented as a remarkably brave
man, and he relates some strange adventures of his
prowess. Several great warriors have condescended to
shake me by the hand; their very touch is disgusting —
it will indeed be a deliverance to get rid of all this “Indian
poetry.” We are, nevertheless, to take a few to the Yellow-
stone. Alexis has his wife, who is, in fact, a good-looking
young woman; an old patroon, Provost, takes one of his
daughters along; and we have, besides, several red-skinned
single gentlemen. We were assured that the northern
parts of the hills, that form a complete curtain to the
vast prairie on which we have walked this afternoon, are
still adorned with patches of snow that fell there during
last winter. It is now nine o'clock, but before I go to rest
1 The individual so designated was an important functionary in these
villages, whose authority corresponded with that of our “chief of police,”
and was seldom if ever disputed. — E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 17
I cannot resist giving you a description of the curious
exhibition that we have had on board, from a numerous
lot of Indians of the first class, say some forty or fifty.
They ranged themselves along the sides of the large
cabin, squatting on the floor. Coffee had been prepared
for the whole party, and hard sea-biscuit likewise. The
coffee was first given to each of them, and afterwards the
biscuits, and I had the honor of handing the latter to the
row on one side of the boat; a box of tobacco was opened
and laid on the table. The man who came from the Gros
Ventres this afternoon proved to be an excellent interpre-
ter; and after the captain had delivered his speech to him,
he spoke loudly to the group, and explained the purport
of the captain’s speech. They grunted their approbation
frequently, and were, no doubt, pleased. Two individuals
(Indians) made their appearance highly decorated, with
epaulets on the shoulders, red clay on blue uniforms, three
cocks’ plumes in their head-dress, rich moccasins, leggings,
etc. These are men who, though in the employ of the
Opposition company, act truly as friends; but who, mean-
time, being called “Braves,” never grunted, bowed, or
shook hands with any of us. Supper over and the tobacco
distributed, the whole body arose simultaneously, and each
and every one of these dirty wretches we had all to shake
by the hand. The two braves sat still until all the rest
had gone ashore, and then retired as majestically as they
had entered, not even shaking hands with our good-
humored captain. Iam told that this performance takes
place once every year, on the passing of the Company’s
boats. I need not say that the coffee and the two biscuits
apiece were gobbled down in less than no time. The
tobacco, which averaged about two pounds to each man,
was hid in their robes or blankets for future use. Two of
the Indians,-who must have been of the highest order,
and who distributed the “ rank weed,” were nearly naked;
one had on only a breech-clout and one legging, the other
VOL, 11. — 2
18 AUDUBON
was in no better case. They are now all ashore except
one or more who are going with us to the Yellowstone;
and I will now goto my rest. Though I have said “ Good-
night,” I have arisen almost immediately, and I must write
on, for we have other scenes going on both among the
trappers below and some of the people above. Many
Indians, squaws as well as men, are bartering and trading,
and keep up such a babble that Harris and I find sleep
impossible; needless to say, the squaws who are on board
are of the lowest grade of morality.
Fune 8, Thursday. This morning was fair and cold, as
you see by the range of the thermometer, 37° to 56°. We
started at a very early hour, and breakfasted before five,
on account of the village of Gros Ventres, where our cap-
tain had to stop. We passed a few lodges belonging to
the tribe of the poor Mandans, about all that remained.
I only counted eight, but am told there are twelve. The
village of the Gros Ventres (Minnetarees) has been cut off
from the bank of the river by an enormous sand-bar, now
overgrown with willows and brush, and we could only see
the American flag flying in the cool breeze. Two miles
above this, however, we saw an increasing body of Indians,
for the prairie was sprinkled with small parties, on horse
and on foot. The first who arrived fired a salute of small
guns, and we responded with our big gun. They had an
abundance of dogs harnessed to take wood back to the vil-
lage, and their yells and fighting were severe upon our
ears. Some forty or more of the distinguished black-
guards came on board; and we had to close our doors as
we did yesterday. After a short period they were feasted
as last evening; and speeches, coffee, and tobacco, as well
as some gunpowder, were given them, which they took
away in packs, to be divided afterward. We took one
more passenger, and lost our interpreter, who is a trader
with the Minnetarees. The latter are by no means as
fine-looking a set of men as those we have seen before,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 19
and I observed none of that whiteness of skin among
them. There were numbers of men, women, and chil-
dren. We saw acrippled and evidently tame Wolf, and
two Indians, following us on the top of the hills. We
saw two Swans on a bar, and a female Elk, with her
young fawn, for a few minutes. I wished that we had
been ashore, as I know full well that the mother would
not leave her young; and the mother killed, the young
one would have been easily caught alive. We are now
stopping for the night, and our men are cutting wood.
We have done this, I believe, four times to-day, and have
run upward of sixty miles. At the last wood-cutting
place, a young leveret was started by the men, and after
a short race, the poor thing squatted, and was killed by
the stroke of a stick. It proved to be the young of Lepus
townsendit [L. campestris|, large enough to have left the
mother, and weighing rather more than a pound. It isa
very beautiful specimen. The eyes are very large, and
the iris pure amber color. Its hair is tightly, but beau-
tifully curled. Its measurements are as follows [omatted].
Bell will make a fine skin of it to-morrow morning. We
have had all sorts of stories related to us; but Mr. Kipp,
who has been in the country for twenty-two years, is
evidently a person of truth, and I expect a good deal of
information from him. Our captain told us that on a
previous voyage some Indians asked him if, “when the
great Medicine” (meaning the steamer) “was tired, he
gave it whiskey.” Mr. Sire laughed, and told them he
did. “How much?” was the query. “A barrelful, to
be sure!”” The poor wretches at first actually believed
him, and went off contented, but were naturally angry
at being undeceived on a later occasion. I have now
some hope of finding a young of the Antelope alive at
Fort Union, as Mr. Kipp left one there about ten days
ago. I am now going to bed, though our axemen and
“charettes” are still going; and I hope I may not be
20 AUDUBON
called up to-morrow morning, to be ready for breakfast at
half-past four. Harris and Bell went off with Alexis.
Bell fired at a bird, and a large Wolf immediately made
its appearance. This is always the case in this country;
when you shoot an animal and hide yourself, you may see,
in less than half an hour, from ten to thirty of these hun-
gry rascals around the carcass, and have fine fun shooting
at them. We have had a windy day, but a good run on
the whole. I hope to-morrow may prove propitious, and
that we shall reach Fort Union in five more days.
Fune 9, Friday. Thermometer 42°, 75°, 66°. We had
a heavy white frost last night, but we have had a fine,
pleasant day on the whole, and to me a most interesting
one. We passed the Little Missouri! (the real one) about
ten this morning. It is a handsome stream, that runs all
the way from the Black Hills, one of the main spurs of
the mighty Rocky Mountains. We saw three Elks swim-
ming across it, and the number of this fine species of
Deer that are about us now is almost inconceivable. We
have heard of burning springs, which we intend to ex-
amine on our way down. We started a Goose from the
shore that had evidently young ones; she swam off, beat-
ing the water with wings half extended, until nearly one
hundred yards off. A shot from a rifle was fired at her,
1 “Tt rises to the west of the Black Mts., across the northern extremity of
which it finds a narrow, rapid passage along high perpendicular banks, then
seeks the Missouri in a northeasterly direction, through a broken country
with highlands bare of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied
with cottonwood, elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth of willow,
red-wood, red-berry, and choke-cherry. . . . It enters the Missouri with a
bold current, and is 134 yards wide, but its greatest depth is two feet
and a half, which, joined to its rapidity and its sand-bars, makes the
navigation difficult except for canods.” (“Lewis and Clark,” ed. 1893,
pp. 267, 268.
“We came to a green spot at the mouth of the Little Missouri, which is
reckoned to be 1670 miles from the mouth of the great Missouri. The
chain of blue hills, with the same singular forms as we had seen before,
appeared on the other side of this river.” (“Travels in North America,”
Prince of Wied, p. 182.”)
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 21
and happily missed the poor thing; she afterwards low-
ered her neck, sank her body, and with the tip of the bill
only above water, kept swimming away from us till out of
sight. Afterwards one of the trappers shot at two Geese
with two young ones. We landed at four o’clock, and
Harris and Bell shot some Bay-winged Buntings and
Emberiza pallida, whilst Sprague and I went up to the
top of the hills, bounding the beautiful prairie, by which
we had stopped to repair something about the engine.
We gathered some handsome lupines, of two different
species, and many other curious plants. From this eleva-
ted spot we could see the wilderness to an immense
distance; the Missouri looked as if only a brook, and our
steamer a very small one indeed. At this juncture we
saw two men running along the shore upwards, and I
supposed they had seen an Elk or something else, of
which they were in pursuit. Meantime, gazing around,
we saw a large lake, where we are told that Ducks,
Geese, and Swans breed in great numbers; this we
intend also to visit when we come down. At this moment
I heard the report of a gun from the point where the
men had been seen, and when we reached the steam-
boat, we were told that a Buffalo had been killed. From
the deck I saw a man swimming round the animal; he got
on its side, and floated down the stream with it. The
captain sent a parcel of men with a rope; the swimmer
fastened this round the neck of the Buffalo, and with his
assistance, for he now swam all the way, the poor beast
was brought alongside; and as the tackle had been previ-
ously fixed, it was hauled up on the fore deck. Sprague
took its measurements with me, which are as follows:
length from nose to root of tail, 8 feet; height of fore
shoulder to hoof, 4 ft. 94 in.; height at the rump to hoof,
4 ft. 2 in. The head was cut off, as well as one fore
and one hind foot. The head is so full of symmetry, and
so beautiful, that I shall have a drawing of it to-morrow,
22 AUDUBON
as well as careful ones of the feet. Whilst the butchers
were at work, I was highly interested to see one of our
Indians cutting out the milk-bag of the cow and eating
it, quite fresh and raw, in pieces somewhat larger than
ahen’s egg. One of the stomachs was partially washed
in a bucket of water, and an Indian swallowed a large
portion of this. Mr. Chardon brought the remainder on
the upper deck and ate it uncleaned. I had a piece well
cleaned and tasted it; to my utter astonishment, it was
very good, but the idea was repulsive to me; besides
which, Iam not a meat-eater, as you know, except when
other provisions fail. The animal was in good condition;
and the whole carcass was cut up and dispersed among
the men below, reserving the nicer portions for the cabin.
This was accomplished with great rapidity; the blood was
washed away in atrice, and half an hour afterwards no
one would have known that a Buffalo had been dressed on
deck. We now met with a somewhat disagreeable acci-
dent; in starting and backing off the boat, our yaw] was
run beneath the boat; this strained it, and sprung one of
the planks so much that, when we landed on the oppo-
site side of the river, we had to haul it on shore, and turn
it over for examination; it was afterwards taken to the
forecastle to undergo repairs to-morrow, as it is often
needed. Whilst cutting wood was going on, we went
ashore. Bell shot at two Buffaloes out of eight, and
killed both; he would also have shot a Wolf, had he had
more bullets. Harris saw, and shot at, an Elk; but he
knows little about still hunting, and thereby lost a good
chance. A negro fire-tender went off with his rifle and
shot two of Townsend’s Hares. One was cut in two by
his ball, and he left it on the ground; the other was shot
near the rump, and I have it now hanging before me;
and, let me tell you, that I never before saw so beautiful
an animal of the same family. My drawing will be a
good one; it is a fine specimen, an old male. I have been
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 23
hearing much of the prevalence of scurvy, from living so
constantly on dried flesh, also about the small-pox, which
destroyed such numbers of the Indians. Among the
Mandans, Riccarées, and Gros Ventres, hundreds died in
1837, only a few surviving; and the Assiniboins were
nearly exterminated. Indeed it is said that in the various
attacks of this scourge 52,000 Indians have perished.
This last visitation of the dread disease has never before
been related by a traveller,! and I will write more of it
when at Fort Union. It is now twenty minutes to mid-
night; and, with walking and excitement of one kind or
another, I am ready for bed. Alexis and another hunter
will be off in an hour on a hunt.
Fune 10, Saturday. I rose at half-past three this morn-
ing. It was clear and balmy; our men were cutting wood,
and we went off shooting. We saw a female Elk that
was loath to leave the neighborhood; and Bell shot a
Sharp-tailed Grouse, which we ate at our supper and
found pretty good, though sadly out of season. As we
were returning to the boat, Alexis and his companion
went off after Buffaloes that we saw grazing peaceably
on the bank near the river. Whilst they were shooting
at the Buffaloes, and almost simultaneously, the fawn
of the female Elk was seen lying asleep under the bank.
It rose as we approached, and Bell shot at it, but missed;
and with its dam it went briskly off. It was quite
small, looking almost red, and was beautifully spotted
with light marks of the color of the Virginia Deer’s fawn.
I would have given five dollars for it, as I saw it skipping
over the prairie. At this moment Alexis came running,
and told the captain they had killed two Buffaloes; and
almost all the men went off at once with ropes, to bring
the poor animals on board, according to custom. One,
1 At this time the account of the Prince of Wied had not been published
in English ; that translation appeared December, 1843, two years after the
German edition.
24 AUDUBON
however, had been already dressed. The other had its
head cut off, and the men were tugging at the rope, hauling
the beast along over the grass. Mr. Chardon was seated
on it; until, when near the boat, the rope gave way, and
the bull rolled over intoa shallow ravine. It was soon on
board, however, and quickly skinned and cut up. The
two hunters had been absent three-quarters of an hour.
At the report of the guns, two Wolves made their appear-
ance, and no doubt fed at leisure on the offal left from
the first Buffalo. Harris saw a gang of Elks, consisting
of between thirty and forty. We have passed a good
number of Wild Geese with goslings; the Geese were
shot at, notwithstanding my remonstrances on account of
the young, but fortunately all escaped. We passed some
beautiful scenery when about the middle of the “ Bend,”
and almost opposite had the pleasure of seeing five Moun-
tain Rams, or Bighorns, on the summit of a hill. I
looked at them through the telescope; they stood per-
fectly still for some minutes, then went out of sight,
and then again were in view. One of them had very
large horns; the rest appeared somewhat smaller. Our
captain told us that he had seen them at, or very near
by, the same place last season, on his way up. We
saw many very curious cliffs, but not one answering the
drawings engraved for Catlin’s work. We passed Knife
River,! Riviere aux Couteaux, and stopped for a short time
to take in wood. Harris killed a Sparrow Hawk, and
saw several Red-shafted Woodpeckers. Bell was then
engaged in saving the head of the Buffalo cow, of which
I made a drawing, and Sprague an outline, notwithstand-
ing the horrible motion of our boat. . We passed safely
1 This is the Little Knife, or Upper Knife River, to be carefully distin-
guished from that Knife River at the mouth of which were the Minnetaree
villages. It falls into the Missouri from the north, in Mountraille Co., 55
miles above the mouth of the Little Missouri. This is probably the stream
named Goat-pen Creek by Lewis and Clark: see p. 274 of the edition of
1893.— E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 25
a dangerous chain of rocks extending across the river;
we also passed White River;! both the streams I have
mentioned are insignificant. The weather was warm,
and became cloudy, and it is now raining smartly. We
have, however, a good quantity of excellent wood, and
have made a good run, say sixty miles.) We saw what
we supposed to be three Grizzly Bears, but could not
be sure. We saw on the prairie ahead of us some
Indians, and as we neared them, found them to be
Assiniboins. There were about ten altogether, men,
squaws, and children. The boat was stopped, and a smart-
looking, though small-statured man came on board. He
had eight plugs of tobacco given him, and was asked to
go off; but he talked a vast deal, and wanted powder and
ball. He was finally got rid of. During his visit, our
Gros Ventre chief and our Sioux were both in my own
cabin. The first having killed three of that tribe and
scalped them, and the Sioux having a similar record, they
had no wish to meet. A few miles above this we stopped
to cut wood. Bell and Harris went on shore; and we got
a White Wolf, so old and so poor that we threw it over-
board. Meantime a fawn Elk was observed crossing the
river, coming toward our shore; it was shot at twice,
but missed; it swam to the shore, but under such a steep
bank that it could not get up. Alexis, who was told of
this, ran down the river bank, reached it, and fastened
his suspenders around its neck, but could not get it up
the bank. Bell had returned, and went to his assistance,
but all in vain; the little thing was very strong, and
floundered and struggled till it broke the tie, and swam
swiftly with the current down the river, and was lost. A
slight rope would have secured it to us. This was almost
the same spot where the captain caught one alive last sea-
son with the yawl; and we could have performed the same
1 Or White Earth River of some maps, a comparatively small stream,
eighteen and one half miles above the mouth of Little Knife River.— E. C.
26 AUDUBON
feat easily, had not the yawl been on deck undergoing
repairs. We pushed off, and very soon saw more Indians
on the shore, also Assiniboins. They had crossed the
“Bend” below us, and had brought some trifles to trade
with us; but our captain passed on, and the poor wretches
sat and looked at the “ Great Medicine” in astonishment.
Shortly after this, we saw a Wolf attempting to climb a
very steep bank of clay; he fell down thrice, but at last
reached the top and disappeared at once. On the oppo-
site shore another Wolf was lying down on a sand-bar, like
a dog, and might readily have been taken for one. We
have stopped for the night at nine o'clock; and I now have
done my day’s putting-up of memoranda and sketches,
intending to enlarge upon much after I return home. I
forgot to say that last evening we saw a large herd of Buf-
faloes, with many calves among them; they were grazing
quietly on a fine bit of prairie, and we were actually op-
posite to them and within two hundred yards before they
appeared to notice us. They stared, and then started at
a handsome canter, suddenly wheeled round, stopped,
closed up their ranks, and then passed over a slight knoll,
producing a beautiful picturesque view. Another thing I
forgot to speak of is a place not far below the Little Mis-
souri, where Mr. Kipp assured us we should find the re-
mains of a petrified forest, which we hope to see later.
Fune 11, Sunday. This day has been tolerably fine,
though windy. We have seen an abundance of game, a
great number of Elks, common Virginian Deer, Moun-
tain Rams in two places, and a fine flock of Sharp-tailed
Grouse, that, when they flew off from the ground near us,
looked very much like large Meadow Larks. They
were on a prairie bordering a large patch of Artemisia,
which in the distance presents the appearance of acres of
cabbages. We have seen many Wolves and some Buffa-
loes. One young bull stood on the brink of a bluff, look-
ing at the boat steadfastly for full five minutes; and as
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 27
we neared the spot, he waved his tail, and moved off
briskly. On another occasion, a young bull that had just
landed at the foot of a very steep bluff was slaughtered
without difficulty; two shots were fired at it, and the poor
thing was killed by a rifle bullet. JI was sorry, for we did
not stop for it, and its happy life was needlessly ended.
I saw near that spot a large Hawk, and also a very small
Tamias, or Ground Squirrel. Harris saw a Spermophile,
of what species none of us could tell. We have seen
many Elks swimming the river, and they look almost the
size of a well-grown mule. They stared at us, were fired
at, at an enormous distance, it is true, and yet stood still.
These animals are abundant beyond belief hereabouts.
We have seen much remarkably handsome scenery, but
nothing at all comparing with Catlin’s descriptions; his
book must, after all, be altogethera humbug. Poor devil!
I pity him from the bottom of my soul; had he studied,
and kept up to the old French proverb that says, “Bon
renommé vaut mieux que ceinture doré,” he might have
become an “honest man” —the quintessence of God’s
works. We did hope to have reached L’Eau Bourbeux
(the Muddy River!) this evening, but we are now fast
ashore, about six miles below it, about the same distance
that we have been told we were ever since shortly after
dinner. We have had one event: our boat caught fire,
and burned for a few moments near the stern, the effects
of the large, hot cinders coming from the chimney; but
it was almost immediately put out, thank God! Any
inattention, with about 10,000 lbs. of powder on board,
might have resulted in a sad accident. We have decided
to write a short letter of thanks to our truly gentlemanly
captain, and to present him with a handsome six-barrelled
1 Present name of the stream which flows into the Missouri from the
north, in Buford Co. This is the last considerable affluent below the
mouth of the Yellowstone, and the one which Lewis and Clark called
White Earth River, by mistake. See last note.— E. C.
28 AUDUBON
pistol, the only thing we have that may prove of service
to him, although I hope he may never need it. Sprague
drew four figures of the Buffalo’s foot; and Bell and I
have packed the whole of our skins. We ran to-day all
round the compass, touching every point. The following
is a copy of the letter to Captain Sire, signed by all of us.
Fort UNIon, MoutH OF YELLOWSTONE,
UPPER MIssouRI, June 11th, 1843.
Dear Sir,— We cannot part with you previous to your return
to St. Louis, without offering to you our best wishes, and our thanks
for your great courtesy, assuring you how highly we appreciate,
and feel grateful for, your uniform kindness and gentlemanly de-
portment to each and all of us. We are most happy to add that
our passage to the Yellowstone River has been devoid of any
material accident, which we can only attribute to the great regu-
larity and constant care with which you have discharged your
arduous duties in the difficult navigation of the river.
We regret that it is not in our power, at this moment, to offer
you a suitable token of our esteem, but hope you will confer on us
the favor of accepting at our hands a six-barrelled, silver-mounted
pistol, which we sincerely hope and trust you may never have
occasion to use in defence of your person. We beg you to con-
sider us,
Your well-wishers and friends, etc.,
Fort Union, Fune 12, Monday. We had a cloudy and
showery day, and a high wind besides. We saw many
Wild Geese and Ducks with their young. We took in
wood at two places, but shot nothing. I saw a Wolf giv-
ing chase, or driving away four Ravens from a sand-bar;
but the finest sight of all took place shortly before we
came to the mouth of the Yellowstone, and that was no
less than twenty-two Mountain Rams and Ewes mixed,
and amid them one young one only. We came in sight
of the fort at five o’clock, and reached it at seven. We
passed the Opposition fort three miles below this; their
flags were hoisted, and ours also. We were saluted from
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 29
Fort Union, and we fired guns in return, six in number.
The moment we had arrived, the gentlemen of the fort
came down on horseback, and appeared quite a cavalcade.
I was introduced to Mr. Culbertson and others, and, of
course, the introduction went the rounds. We walked to
the fort and drank some first-rate port wine, and returned
to the boat at half-past nine o’clock. Our captain was
pleased with the letter and the pistol. Our trip to the
this place has been the quickest on record, though our
boat is the slowest that ever undertook to reach the Yel-
lowstone. Including all stoppages and detentions, we
have made the trip in forty-eight days and seven hours
from St. Louis. We left St. Louis April 25th, at noon;
reaching Fort Union June r2th, at seven in the evening.
Fune 138, Tuesday. We had a remarkably busy day on
board and on shore, but spent much of our time writing
letters. I wrote home at great length to John Bachman,
N. Berthoud, and Gideon B. Smith. We walked to the
fort once and back again, and dined on board with our
captain and the gentlemen of the fort. We took a ride
-also in an old wagon, somewhat at the risk of our necks,
for we travelled too fast for the nature of what I was
told was the road. We slept on board the “Omega,”
probably for the last time.
We have been ina complete state of excitement unload-
ing the boat, reloading her with a new cargo, and we were
all packing and arranging our effects, as well as writing
letters. After dinner our belongings were taken to the
landing of the fort in a large keel-boat, with the last of
the cargo. The room which we are to occupy during our
stay at this place is rather small and low, with only one
window, on the west side. However, we shall manage
well enough, I dare say, for the few weeks we are to be
here. This afternoon I had a good deal of conversation
with Mr. Culbertson, and found him well disposed to do
all he can for us; and no one can ask for more politeness
30 AUDUBON
than is shown us. Our captain having invited us to re-
main with him to-night, we have done so, and will break-
fast with him to-morrow morning. It is his intention to
leave as early as he can settle his business here. All
the trappers are gone to the fort, and in a few weeks will
be dispersed over different and distant parts of the wilder-
ness. The filth they had left below has been scraped and
washed off, as well indeed as the whole boat, of which
there was need enough. I have copied this journal and
send it to St. Louis by our good captain; also one box of
skins, one pair Elk horns, and one bundle of Wolf and
other skins.
Sune 14, Wednesday. At six this morning all hands
rose early; the residue of the cargo for St. Louis was
placed on board. Our captain told us time was up, and
we all started for the fort on foot, quite a short distance.
Having deposited our guns there, Bell, Squires, and I
walked off to the wooding-place, where our captain was to
remain a good while, and it was there we should bid him
adieu. We found this walk one of the worst, the very
worst, upon which we ever trod; full of wild rose-bushes,
tangled and matted with vines, burs, and thorns of all sorts,
and encumbered by thousands of pieces of driftwood, some
decayed, some sunk in the earth, while others were en-
tangled with the innumerable roots exposed by floods and
rains. We saw nothing but a few Ravens. When nearly
half way, we heard the trampling of galloping horses, and
loud hallooings, which we found to proceed from the
wagon of which we have spoken, which, loaded with men,
passed us at a speed one would have thought impossible
over such ground. Soon after we had a heavy shower of
rain, but reached the boat in good order. Harris and
Sprague, who had followed us, came afterwards. I was
pretty hot, and rather tired. The boat took on wood for
half an hour after we arrived; then the captain shook us
all by the hand most heartily, and we bade him God speed.
‘
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 31
I parted from him really with sorrow, for I have found
him all I could wish during the whole passage; and his
position is no sinecure, to say naught of the rabble under
his control. All the wood-cutters who remained walked
off by the road; and we went back in the wagon over a
bad piece of ground — much easier, however, than return-
ing on foot. As we reached the prairies, we travelled
faster, and passed by the late garden of the fort, which
had been abandoned on account of the thieving of the
men attached to the Opposition Company, at Fort Mor-
timer. Harris caught a handsome snake, now in spirits.
We saw Lazuli Finches and several other sorts of small
birds. Upon reaching the fort, from which many great
guns were fired as salutes to the steamer, which were
loudly returned, I was amused at the terror the firing
occasioned to the squaws and their children, who had
arrived in great numbers the previous evening; they
howled, fell down on the earth, or ran in every direc-
tion. All the dogs started off, equally frightened, and
made for the distant hills. Dinner not being ready,
three of us took a walk, and saw a good number of
Tamias holes, many cacti of two sorts, and some plants
hitherto uncollected by us. We sawa few Arctic Ground
Finches and two Wolves. After dinner Mr. Culbertson
told us that if a Wolf made its appearance on the
prairie near the fort, he would give it chase on horse-
back, and bring it to us, alive or dead; and he was as
good as his word. It was so handsomely executed, that
I will relate the whole affair. When I saw the Wolf
(a white one), it was about a quarter of a mile off,
alternately standing and trotting; the horses were about
one-half the distance off. A man was started to drive
these in; and I thought the coursers never would reach
the fort, much less become equipped so as to overhaul
the Wolf. We were all standing on the platform of the
fort, with our heads only above the palisades; and I
32 AUDUBON
was so fidgety that I ran down twice to tell the hunters
that the Wolf was making off. Mr. Culbertson, however,
told me he would see it did not make off; and in a few
moments he rode out of the fort, gun in hand, dressed
only in shirt and breeches. He threw his cap off within
a few yards, and suddenly went off with the swiftness of
a jockey bent on winning arace. The Wolf trotted on,
and ever and anon stopped to gaze at the rider and the
horse; till, finding out the meaning (too late, alas! for
him), he galloped off with all his might; but the horse
was too swift for the poor cur, as we saw the rider gain-
ing ground rapidly. Mr. Culbertson fired his gun off as
a signal, I was told, that the Wolf would be brought in;
and the horse, one would think, must have been of the
same opinion, for although the Wolf had now reached the
hills, and turned into a small ravine, the moment it had
entered it, the horse dashed after, the sound of the gun
came on the ear, the Wolf was picked up by Mr. Culbert-
son without dismounting, hardly slackening his pace,
and thrown across the saddle. The rider returned as
swiftly as he had gone, wet through with a smart shower
that had fallen meantime; and the poor Wolf was placed
at my disposal. The time taken from the start to the re-
turn in the yard did not exceed twenty minutes, possibly
something less. Two other men who had started at the
same time rode very swiftly also, and skirted the hills to
prevent the Wolf's escape; and one of them brought in
Mr. C.’s gun, which he had thrown on the ground as he
picked up the Wolf to place it on the saddle. The beast
was not quite dead when it arrived, and its jaws told of
its dying agonies; it scratched one of Mr. C.’s fingers
sorely; but we are assured that such things so often occur
that nothing is thought of it.
And now a kind of sham Buffalo hunt was proposed,
accompanied by a bet of a suit of clothes, to be given to
the rider who would load and fire the greatest number of
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 33
shots in a given distance. The horses were mounted as
another Wolf was seen trotting off towards the hills, and
Mr. Culbertson again told us he would bring it in. This
time, however, he was mistaken; the Wolf was too far
off to be overtaken, and it reached the hill-tops, made its
way through a deep ravine full of large rocks, and was
then given up. Mr. Culbertson was seen coming down
without his quarry. He joined the riders, started with
his gun empty, loaded in a trice, and fired the first shot;
then the three riders came on at full speed, loading and
firing first on one side, then on the other of the horse, as
if after Buffaloes. Mr. C. fired eleven times before he
reached the fort, and within less than half a mile’s run;
the others fired once less, each. We were all delighted
to see these feats. No one was thrown off, though the
bridles hung loose, and the horses were under full gallop
all the time. Mr. Culbertson’s mare, which is of the full
Blackfoot Indian breed, is about five years old, and could
not be bought for four hundred dollars. I should like to
see some of the best English hunting gentlemen hunt in
the like manner. We are assured that after dusk, or as
soon as the gates of the fort are shut, the Wolves come
near enough to be killed from the platform, as these
beasts oftentimes come to the trough where the hogs are
fed daily. We have seen no less than eight this day from
the fort, moving as leisurely as if a hundred miles off. A
heavy shower put off running a race; but we are to havea
regular Buffalo hunt, where I must act only as a specta-
tor; for, alas! I am now too near seventy to run and load
whilst going at full gallop. Two gentlemen arrived this
evening from the Crow Indian Nation; they crossed to
our side of the river, and were introduced at once. One
is Mr. Chouteau, son of Auguste Chouteau, and the other
a Scotchman, Mr. James Murray, at whose father’s farm,
on the Tweed, we all stopped on our return from the
Highlands of Scotland. They told us that the snow and
VOL. 11.—3
34 AUDUBON
ice was yet three feet deep near the mountains, and an
abundance over the whole of the mountains themselves.
They say they have made a good collection of robes, but
that Beavers are very scarce. This day has been spent
altogether in talking, sight-seeing, and enjoyment. Our
room was small, dark, and dirty, and crammed with our
effects. Mr. Culbertson saw this, and told me that to-
morrow he would remove us to a larger, quieter, and bet-
ter one. I was glad to hear this, as it would have been
very difficult to draw, write, or work in; and yet it is the
very room where the Prince de Neuwied resided for two
months, with his secretary and bird-preserver. The even-
ing was cloudy and cold; we had had several showers of
rain since our bath in the bushes this morning, and I felt
somewhat fatigued. Harris and I made our beds up;
Squires fixed some Buffalo robes, of which nine had been
given us, on a long old bedstead, never knowing it had
been the couch of a foreign prince;! Bell and Sprague
settled themselves opposite to us on more Buffalo skins,
and night closed in. But although we had lain down,
it was impossible for us to sleep; for above us was a
drunken man affected with a gottre, and not only was his
voice rough and loud, but his words were continuous.
His oaths, both in French and English, were better fitted
for the Five Points in New York, or St. Giles of London,
than anywhere among Christians. He roared, laughed
like a maniac, and damned himself and the whole crea-
tion. I thought that time would quiet him, but, no! for
now clarionets, fiddles, and a drum were heard in the din-
ing-room, where indeed they had been playing at differ-
ent times during the afternoon, and our friend above
began swearing at this as if quite fresh. We had retired
for the night; but an invitation was sent us to join the
party in the dining-room. Squires was up in a moment,
and returned to say that a ball was on foot, and that “all
1 Maximilian, Prince of Wied.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 35
the beauty and fashion” would be skipping about in less
than no time. There was no alternative; we all got up,
and in a short time were amid the dcau monde of these
parts. Several squaws, attired in their best, were present,
with all the guests, exgagés, clerks, etc. Mr. Culbertson
played the fiddle very fairly; Mr. Guépe the clarionet,
and Mr. Chouteau the drum, as if brought up in the army
of the great Napoleon. Cotillions and reels were danced
with much energy and apparent enjoyment, and the com-
pany dispersed about one o’clock. We retired for the
second time, and now occurred a dispute between the
drunkard and another man; but, notwithstanding this,
I was so wearied that I fell asleep.
Fune 15, Thursday. We all rose late, as one might
expect; the weather was quite cool for the season, and it
was Cloudy besides. We did nothing else than move our
effects to an upstairs room. The Mackinaw boats arrived
at the fort about noon, and were unloaded in a precious
short time; and all hands being called forth, the empty
boats themselves were dragged to a ravine, turned over,
and prepared for calking previous to their next voyage
up or down, as the case might be. . The gentlemen from
these boats gave me a fine pair of Deer’s horns; and to
Mr. Culbertson a young Gray Wolf, and also a young
Badger, which they had brought in. It snarled and
snapped, and sometimes grunted not unlike a small pig,
but did not bite. It moved somewhat slowly, and its
body looked flattish all the time; the head has all the
markings of an adult, though it is a young of the present
spring. Bell and Harris hunted a good while, but pro-
cured only a Lazuli Finch and a few other birds. Bell
skinned the Wolf, and we put its hide in the barrel
with the head of the Buffalo cow, etc. I showed the
plates of the quadrupeds to many persons, and I hope
with success, as they were pleased and promised me
much. To-morrow morning a man called Black Harris
36 AUDUBON
is to go off after Antelopes for me; and the hunters for
the men of the fort and themselves; and perhaps some
of the young men may go with one or both parties. I
heard many stories about Wolves; particularly I was in-
terested in one told by Mr. Kipp, who assured us he had
caught upwards of one hundred with baited fish-hooks.
Many other tales were told us; but I shall not forget
them, so will not write them down here, but wait till
hereafter. After shooting at a mark with a bow made of
Elk horn, Mr. Kipp presented it to me. We saw several
Wolves, but none close to the fort. Both the common
Crow and Raven are found here; Bell killed one of the
former.
Fune 16, Friday. The weather was cool this morning,
with the wind due east. I drew the young Gray Wolf,
and Sprague made an outline of it. Bell, Provost, Alexis,
and Black Harris went over the river to try to procure
Antelopes; Bell and Alexis returned to dinner without
any game, although they had seen dozens of the animals
wanted, and also some Common Deer. The two others,
who travelled much farther, returned at dusk with empty
stomachs and a young fawn of the Common Deer.. Harris
and I took a long walk after my drawing was well towards
completion, and shot a few birds. The Buffalo, old and
young, are fond of rolling on the ground in the manner of
horses, and turn quite over; this is done not only to clean
themselves, but also to rub off the loose old coat of hair
and wool that hangs about their body like so many large,
dirty rags. Those about the fort are gentle, but will not
allow a person to touch their bodies, not even the young
calves of the last spring. Our young Badger is quite fond
of lying on his back, and then sleeps. His general ap-
pearance and gait remind me of certain species of Arma-
dillo. There was a good deal of talking and jarring about
the fort; some five or six men came from the Opposition
‘Company, and would have been roughly handled had they
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 37
not cleared off at the beginning of trouble. Arrangements
were made for loading the Mackinaw barges, and it is in-
tended that they shall depart for St. Louis, leaving on
Sunday morning. We shall all be glad when these boats
with their men are gone, as we are now full to the brim.
Harris has a new batch of patients, and enjoys the work
of physician.
Fune 17, Saturday. Warm and fair, with the river ris-
ing fast. The young fawn was hung up, and I drew it.
By dinner-time Sprague had well prepared the Gray Wolf,
and I put him to work at the fawn. Bell went shooting,
and brought five or six good birds. The song of the
Lazuli Finch so much resembles that of the Indigo Bird
that it would be difficult to distinguish them by the note
alone. They keep indifferently among the low bushes
and high trees. He also brought a few specimens of
Spermophilus hoodit of Richardson,! of which the meas-
urements were taken. Wolves often retreat into holes
made by the sinking of the earth near ravines, burrow-
ing in different directions at the bottoms of these. I
sent Provost early this morning to the Opposition fort,
to inquire whether Mr. Cutting had written letters
about us, and also to see a fine Kit Fox, brought in one
of their boats from the Yellowstone. Much has been
done in the way of loading the Mackinaw boats. Bell
has skinned the young Wolf, and Sprague will perhaps
finish preparing the fawn. The hunters who went out
yesterday morning have returned, and brought back a
quantity of fresh Buffalo meat. Squires brought many
fragments of a petrified tree. No Antelopes were shot,
and I feel uneasy on this score. Provost returned and
told me Mr. Cutting’s men with the letters had not ar-
rived, but that they were expected hourly. The Kit Fox
1 This is a synonym of Spermophilus tridecem-lineatus, the Thirteen-lined,
or Federation Sphermophile, the variety that is found about Fort Union
being S. 4. pallidus. — E. C.
38 AUDUBON
had been suffocated to death by some dozens of bundles
of Buffalo robes falling on it, while attached to a ladder,
and had been thrown out and eaten by the Wolves or the
dogs. This evening, quite late, I shot a fine large Gray
Wolf. I sincerely hope to see some Antelopes to-mor-
row, as well as other animals.
Fune 18, Sunday. This day has been a beautiful, as
well as a prosperous one tous. At daylight Provost and
Alexis went off hunting across the river. Immediately
after an early breakfast, Mr. Murray and three Mackinaw
boats started for St. Louis. After the boats were fairly
out of sight, and the six-pounders had been twice fired,
and the great flag floated in the stiff southwesterly breeze,
four other hunters went off over the river, and Squires
was one of them. I took a walk with Mr. Culbertson and
Mr. Chardon, to look at some old, decaying, and simply
constructed coffins, placed on trees about ten feet above
ground, for the purpose of finding out in what manner,
and when it would be best for us to take away the skulls,
some six or seven in number, all Assiniboin Indians. It
was decided that we would do so at dusk, or nearly at
dark. My two companions assured me that they never
had walked so far from the fort unarmed as on this occa-
sion, and said that even a sézgle Indian with a gun and a
bow might have attacked us; but if several were together,
they would pay no attention to us, as that might be con-
strued to mean war. This 1s a good lesson, however, and
one I shall not forget. About ten o’clock Alexis came
to me and said that he had killed two male Antelopes,
and Provost one Deer, and that he must have a cart to
bring the whole in. This was arranged in a few minutes;
and Harris and I went across the river on a ferry flat, tak-
ing with us a cart and a most excellent mule. Alexis’
wife went across also to gather gooseberries. The cart
being made ready, we mounted it, I sitting down, and
Harris standing up. We took an old abandoned road,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 39
filled with fallen timber and bushes innumerable; but
Alexis proved to be an excellent driver, and the mule the
most active and the strongest I ever saw. We jogged on
through thick and thin for about two miles, when we
reached a prairie covered with large bushes of Artemisia
(called here “ Herbe Sainte”), and presently, cutting down
a slope, came to where lay our Antelope, a young male,
and the skin of the Deer, while its carcass hung on a tree.
These were placed in the cart, and we proceeded across
the prairie for the other Antelope, which had been tied
by the horns to a large bush of Artemisia, being alive
when Alexis left it; but it was now dead and stiff. I
looked at its eyes at once. This was a fine old male with
its coat half shed. I was sorry enough it was dead. We
placed it by its relation in the cart, jumped in, and off
we went at a good round trot, not returning to the road,
but across the prairie and immediately under the clay
hills where the Antelope go after they have fed in the
prairie below from early dawn until about eight o'clock;
there are of course exceptions to the contrary. Part of
the way we travelled between ponds made by the melting
of the snows, and having on them a few Ducks and a
Black Tern, all of which no doubt breed here. After we
had passed the last pond, we saw three Antelopes several
hundred yards to the lee of us; the moment they per-
ceived us Alexis said they would be off; and so they were,
scampering towards the hills until out of sight. We now
entered the woods, and almost immediately Harris saw
the head of a Deer about fifty yards distant. Alexis, who
had only a rifle, would have shot him from the cart, had
the mule stood still; but as this was not the case, Alexis
jumped down, took a long, deliberate aim, the gun went
off, and the Deer fell dead in its tracks. It proved to be
a doe with very large milk-bags, and doubtless her fawn
or fawns were in the vicinity; but Alexis could not find
them in the dense bush. Heand Harris dragged her to the
40 AUDUBON
cart, where I stood holding the mule. We reached the
ferry, where the boat had awaited our return, placed the
cart on board without touching the game; and, on landing
at the fort, the good mule pulled it up the steep bank
into the yard. We now had two Antelopes and two Deer
that had been killed before noon. Immediately after
dinner, the head of the old male was cut off, and I went
to work outlining it; first small, with the camera, and
then by squares. Bell was engaged in skinning both the
bodies; but I felt vexed that he had carelessly suffered
the Gray Wolf to be thrown into the river. I spoke to
him on the subject of never losing a specimen till we
were quite sure it would not be needed; and I feel well
assured he is so honest a man and so good a worker that
what I said will last for all time. While looking at the
Deer shot this day, Harris and I thought that their tails
were very long, and that the animals themselves were very
much larger than those we have to the eastward; and we
all concluded to have more killed, and examine and meas-
ure closely, as this one may be an exception. It was un-
fortunate we did not speak of this an hour sooner, as two
Deer had been killed on this side the river by a hunter
belonging to the fort; but Mr. Culbertson assured me
that we should have enough of them ina few days. I am
told that the Rocky Mountain Rams lost most of their
young during the hard frosts of the early spring; for, like
those of the common sheep, the lambs are born as early
as the 1st of March, and hence their comparative scarcity.
Harris and Bell have shot a handsome White Wolf, a
female, from the ramparts; having both fired together, it
is not known which shot was the fatal one. Bell wounded
another in the leg, as there were several marauders about;
but the rascal made off.
Fune 19, Monday. It began raining early this morn-
ing; by “early,” I mean fully two hours before daylight.
The first news I heard was from Mr. Chardon, who told
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 41
me he had left a Wolf feeding out of the pig’s trough,
which is immediately under the side of the fort. The
next was from Mr. Larpenteur,! who opens the gates when
the bell rings at sunrise, who told us he saw seven
Wolves within thirty yards, or less, of the fort. I have
told him since, with Mr. Chardon’s permission, to call
upon us before he opens these mighty portals, whenever
he espies Wolves from the gallery above, and I hope that
to-morrow morning we may shoot one or more of these
bold marauders. Sprague has been drawing all day, and
Ia good part of it; and it has been so chilly and cold
that we have had fires in several parts of the fort. Bell
and Harris have gone shooting this afternoon, and have
not yet returned. Bell cleaned the Wolf shot last night,
and the two Antelopes; old Provost boiled brine, and the
whole of them are now in pickle. There are some notions
that two kinds of Deer are found hereabouts, one quite
small, the other quite large; but of this I have no proof
at present. The weather was too bad for Alexis to go
hunting. Young Mr. McKenzie and a companion went
across the river, but returned soon afterwards, having
seen nothing but one Grizzly Bear. The water is either
at a stand, or falling a little. — Later. Harris and Bell
have returned, and, to my delight and utter astonishment,
have brought two new birds: one a Lark,? small and
beautiful; the other like our common Golden-winged
Woodpecker, but with a red mark instead of a black one
along the lower mandible running backward.* Iam quite
1 Charles Larpenteur, whose MS. autobiography I possess. — E. C.
2 This is the first intimation we have of the discovery of the Missouri
Titlark, which Audubon dedicated to Mr. Sprague under the name of
Alauda spragueit, B. of Am. vii., 1844, p. 334, pl. 486. It is now well known
as Anthus (Neocorys) spraguei. — E. C.
8 Here is the original indication of the curious Flicker of the Upper
Missouri region, which Audubon named Picus ayresii, B. of Am. vii., 1844,
p- 348, pl. 494, after W. O. Ayres. It is the Colaptes Aybridus of Baird, and
the C. aurato-mexicanus of Hartlaub; in which the specific characters of the
42 AUDUBON
amazed at the differences of opinion respecting the shed-
ding — or not shedding — of the horns of the Antelope; 1
and this must be looked to with the greatest severity, for
if these animals do shed their horns, they are no longer
Antelopes. We are about having quite a ball in honor of
Mr. Chardon, who leaves shortly for the Blackfoot Fort.
June 20, Tuesday. It rained nearly all night; and
though the ball was given, I saw nothing of it, and heard
but little, for I went to bed and to sleep. Sprague fin-
ished the drawing of the old male Antelope, and I mine,
taking besides the measurements, etc., which I give here.
. . . Bell has skinned the head and put it in pickle.
The weather was bad, yet old Provost, Alexis, and Mr.
Bonaventure, a good hunter and a first-rate shot, went
over the river to hunt. They returned, however, without
anything, though they saw three or four Deer, and a Wolf
almost black, with very long hair, which Provost followed
for more than a mile, but uselessly, as the rascal out-
witted him after all. Harris and Bell are gone too, and
I hope they will bring some more specimens of Sprague’s
Lark and the new Golden-winged Woodpecker.
To fill the time on this dreary day, I asked Mr. Char-
don to come up to our room and give us an account of the
small-pox among the Indians, especially among the Man-
dans and Riccarees, and he related as follows: Early in
the month of July, 1837, the steamer “ Assiniboin ” arrived
at Fort Clark with many cases of small-pox on board.
Golden-winged and Red-shafted Flickers are mixed and obscured in every
conceivable degree. We presently find Audubon puzzled by the curious
birds, whose peculiarities have never been satisfactorily explained. — E. C.
1 The fact that the Antilocapra americana does shed its horns was not
satisfactorily established till several years after 1843. It was first brought
to the notice of naturalists by Dr. C. A. Canfield of California, April 10,
1858, and soon afterward became generally known. (See Proc. Zodl. Soc.
Lond. 1865, p. 718, and 1866, p. 105.) Thereupon it became evident that,
as Audubon says, these animals are not true Antelopes, and the family
Antilocapride was established for their reception. On the whole subject
see article in Encycl. Amer. i., 1883, pp. 237-242,figs. I-53. — E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 43
Mr. Chardon, having a young son on the boat, went thirty
miles to meet her, and took his son away. The pesti-
lence, however, had many victims on the steamboat, and
seemed destined to find many more among the helpless
tribes of the wilderness. An Indian stole the blanket of
one of the steamboat’s watchmen (who lay at the point of
death, if not already dead), wrapped himself in it, and
carried it off, unaware of the disease that was to cost him
his life, and that of many of his tribe—thousands, in-
deed. Mr. Chardon offered a reward immediately for the
return of the blanket, as well as a new one in its stead,
and promised that no punishment should be inflicted.
But the robber was a great chief; through shame, or some
other motive, he never came forward, and, before many
days, was a corpse. Most of the Riccarees and Mandans
were some eighty miles in the prairies, hunting Buffaloes
and saving meat for the winter. Mr. Chardon despatched
an express to acquaint them all of the awful calamity, en-
joining them to keep far off, for that death would await
them in their villages. They sent word in return, that
their corn was suffering for want of work, that they were
not afraid, and would return; the danger to them, poor
things, seemed fabulous, and doubtless they thought
other reasons existed, for which this was an excuse. Mr.
Chardon sent the man back again, and told them their
crop of corn was nothing compared to their lives; but
Indians are Indians, and, in spite of all entreaties, they
moved ex masse, to confront the awful catastrophe that
was about to follow. When they reached the villages,
they thought the whites had saved the Riccarees, and put
the plague on them alone (they were Mandans). More-
over, they thought, and said, that the whites had a pre-
ventive medicine, which the whites would not give them.
Again and again it was explained to them that this was
not the case, but all to no purpose; the small-pox had
taken such a hold upon the poor Indians, and in such
44 AUDUBON
malignant form, that they died oftentimes within the ris-
ing and setting of a day’s sun. They died by hundreds
daily; their bodies were thrown down beneath the high
bluff, and soon produced a stench beyond description.
Men shot their wives and children, and afterwards, driv-
ing several balls in their guns, would place the muzzle
in their mouths, and, touching the trigger with their feet,
blow their brains out. About this time Mr. Chardon was
informed that one of the young Mandan chiefs was-bent on
shooting him, believing he had brought the pestilence
upon the Indians. One of Mr. Chardon’s clerks heard of
this plot, and begged him to remain in the store; at first
Mr. Chardon did not place any faith in the tale, but later
was compelled to do so, and followed his clerk’s advice.
The young chief, a short time afterwards, fell a victim to
this fearful malady; but probably others would have taken
his life had it not been for one of those strange incidents
which come, we know not why, nor can we explain them.
A number of the chiefs came that day to confer with Mr.
Chardon, and while they were talking angrily with him,
he sitting with his arms on a table between them, a
Dove, being pursued by a Hawk, flew in through the open
door, and sat panting and worn out on Mr. Chardon’s arm
for more than a minute, when it flew off. The Indians,
who were quite numerous, clustered about him, and asked
him what the bird came to him for? After a moment’s
thought, he told them that the bird had been sent by the
white men, his friends, to see if it was true that the Man-
dans had killed him, and that it must return with the an-
swer as soon as possible; he added he had told the Dove
to say that the Mandans were his friends, and would
never kill him, but would do all they could for him.
The superstitious redmen believed this story implicitly;
thenceforth they looked on Mr. Chardon as one of the
Great Spirit’s sons, and believed he alone could help
them. Little, however, could be done; the small-pox
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 45
continued its fearful ravages, and the Indians grew fewer
and fewer day by day. For a long time the Riccarees
did not suffer; the Mandans became more and more as-
tounded at this, and became exasperated against both
whites and Indians. The disease was of the most viru-
lent type, so that within a few hours after death the
bodies were a mass of rottenness. Men killed themselves,
to die a nobler death than that brought by the dreaded
plague. One young warrior sent his wife to dig his
grave; and she went, of course, for no Indian woman
dares disobey her lord. The grave was dug, and the war-
rior, dressed in his most superb apparel, with lance and
shield in hand, walked towards it singing his own death
song, and, finding the grave finished, threw down all
his garments and arms, and leaped into it, drawing his
knife as he did so, and cutting his body almost asunder.
This done, the earth was thrown over him, the grave filled
up, and the woman returned to her lodge to live with her
children, perhaps only another day. A great chief, who
had been a constant friend to the whites, having caught
the pest, and being almost at the last extremity, dressed
himself in his fineries, mounted his war-steed, and, fevered
and in agony, rode among the villages, speaking against
the whites, urging the young warriors to charge upon
them and destroy them all. The harangue over, he went
home, and died not many hours afterward. The exposure
and exertion brought on great pains, and one of the men
from the fort went to him with something that gave him
temporary relief; before he died, he acknowledged his
error in trying to create trouble between the whites and
Indians, and it was his wish to be buried in front of the
gate of the fort, with all his trophies around and above
his body; the promise was given him that this should be
done, and he died in the belief that the white man, as he
trod on his grave, would see that he was humbled before
him, and would forgive him. Two young men, just sick-
46 AUDUBON
ening with the disease, began to talk of the dreadful death
that awaited them, and resolved not to wait for the nat-
ural close of the malady, the effects of which they had
seen among their friends and relatives. One said the
knife was the surest and swiftest weapon to carry into
effect their proposed self-destruction; the other contended
that placing an arrow in the throat and forcing it into the
lungs was preferable. After a long debate they calmly
rose, and each adopted his own method; in an instant the
knife was driven into the heart of one, the arrow into the
throat of the other, and they fell dead almost at the same
instant. Another story was of an extremely handsome
and powerful Indian who lost an only son, a beautiful boy,
upon whom all his hopes and affections were placed. The
loss proved too much for him; he called his wife, and,
after telling her what a faithful husband he had been, said
to her, “ Why should we live? all we cared for is taken
from us, and why not at once join our child in the land of
the Great Spirit?” She consented; in an instant he shot
her dead on the spot, reloaded his gun, put the muzzle in
his mouth, touched the trigger, and fell back dead. On
the same day another curious incident occurred; a young
man, covered with the eruption, and apparently on the eve
of death, managed to get to a deep puddle of mire or mud,
threw himself in it, and rolled over and over as a Buffalo
is wont todo. The sun was scorching hot, and the poor
fellow got out of the mire covered with a coating of clay
fully half an inch thick and laid himself down; the sun’s
heat soon dried the clay, so as to render it like unburnt
bricks, and as he walked or crawled along towards the
village, the mud drying and falling from him, taking the
skin with it, and leaving the flesh raw and bleeding, he
was in agony, and besought those who passed to kill him;
but, strange to say, after enduring tortures, the fever
left him, he recovered, and is still living, though badly
scarred. Many ran to the river, in the delirium of the
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 47
burning fever, plunged in the stream, and rose no more.
The whites in the fort, as well as the Riccarees, took
the disease after all. The Indians, with few exceptions,
died, and three of the whites. The latter had no food in
the way of bread, flour, sugar, or coffee, and they had to
go stealthily by night to steal small pumpkins, about the
size of a man’s fist, to subsist upon—and this amid a
large number of wild, raving, mad Indians, who swore
revenge against them all the while. This is a mere
sketch of the terrible scourge which virtually annihilated
two powerful tribes of Indians, and of the trials of the
traders attached to the Fur Companies on these wild
prairies, and I can tell you of many more equally strange.
The mortality, as taken down by Major Mitchell, was
estimated by that gentleman at 150,000 Indians, includ-
ing those from the tribes of the Riccarees, Mandans,
Sioux, and Blackfeet. The small-pox was in the very
fort from which I am now writing this account, and its
ravages here were as awful as elsewhere. Mr. Chardon
had the disease, and was left for dead; but one of his
clerks saw signs of life, and forced him to drink a quan-
tity of hot whiskey mixed with water and nutmeg; he fell
into a sound sleep, and his recovery began from that hour.
He says that with him the pains began in the small of
the back, and on the back part of his head, and were in-
tense. He concluded by assuring us all that the small-
pox had never been known in the civilized world, as it
had been among the poor Mandans and other Indians.
Only twenty-seven Mandans were left to tell the tale; they
have now augmented to ten or twelve lodges in the six
years that have nearly elapsed since the pestilence.
1 That the account given by Audubon is not exaggerated may be seen
from the two accounts following; the first from Lewis and Clark, the
second from the Prince of Wied:—
“The ancient Maha village had once consisted of 300 cabins, but was
burnt about four years ago (1800), soon after the small-pox had destroyed
four hundred men, and a proportion of women and children.... The
48 AUDUBON
Harris and Bell came back bringing several small birds,
among which three or four proved to be a Blackbird!
accounts we have had of the effects of the small-pox are most distressing ;
. . . when these warriors saw their strength wasting before a malady which
they could not resist, their frenzy was extreme; they burnt their village, and
many of them put to death their wives and children, to save them from so
cruel an affliction, and that they might go together to some better country.”
“New Orleans, June 6, 1838. We have from the trading posts on the
western frontier of Missouri the most frightful accounts of the ravages of
small-pox among the Indians... . The number of victims within a few
months is estimated at 30,000, and the pestilence is still spreading... .
The small-pox was communicated to the Indians by a person who was on
board the steamboat which went last summer to the mouth of the Yellow-
stone, to convey both the government presents for the Indians, and the
goods for the barter trade of the fur-dealers. . .~. The officers gave notice of
it to the Indians, and exerted themselves to the utmost to prevent any inter-
course between them and the vessel; but this was a vain attempt. ... The
disease first broke out about the 15th of June, 1837, in the village of the
Mandans, from which it spread in all directions with unexampled fury... .
Among the remotest tribes of the Assiniboins from fifty to one hundred
died daily. . . . The ravages of the disorder were most frightful among the
Mandans. That once powerful tribe was exterminated, with the exception
of thirty persons. Their neighbors, the Gros Ventres and the Riccarees,
were out on a hunting excursion at the time the disorder broke out, so that
it did not reach them till a month later; yet half the tribe were destroyed
by October 1. Very few of those who were attacked recovered. . . . Many
put an end to their lives with knives or muskets, or by precipitating them-
selves from the summit of the rock near the settlement. The prairie all
around is a vast field of death, covered with unburied corpses. The Gros
Ventres and the Riccarees, lately amounting to 4,000 souls, were reduced
to less than one half. The Assiniboins, 9,000 in number, are nearly exter-
minated. They,.as well as the Crows and Blackfeet, endeavored to fly in
all directions; but the disease pursued them. ... The accounts of the
Blackfeet are awful. The inmates of above 1,000 of their tents are already
swept away. No language can picture the scene of desolation which the
country presents. The above does not complete the terrible intelligence
which we receive. . . . According to the most recent accounts, the number
of Indians who have been swept away by the small-pox, on the Western
frontier of the United States, amounts to more than 60,000.”
1 Quiscalus brewerii of Audubon, B. of Am. vii., 1844, P: 345, pl. 492, now
known as Scolecophagus cyanocephalus, It was new to our fauna when thus
dedicated by Audubon to his friend Dr. Thomas M. Brewer of Boston, but
had already been described by Wagler from Mexico as Psarocolius cyano-
cephalus. Jt is an abundant bird in the West, where it replaces its near
ally, Scolecophagus carolinus.—E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 49
nearly allied to the Rusty Grakle, but with evidently a
much shorter and straighter bill. Its measurements will
be given, of course. The weather is still lowering and
cold, and it rains at intervals. We are now out of speci-
mens of quadrupeds to draw from. Our gentlemen seem
to remember the ball of last night, and I doubt not will
go early to bed, as I shall.
Fune 21, Wednesday. Cloudy and lowering weather;
however, Provost went off over the river, before daylight,
and shot a Deer, of what kind we do not know; he re-
turned about noon, very hungry. The mud was dreadful
in the bottoms. Bell and young McKenzie went off after
breakfast, but brought nothing but a Sharp-tailed Grouse,
though McKenzie shot two Wolves. The one Harris shot
last night proved to be an old female not worth keeping;
her companions had seamed her jaws, for in this part of
the world Wolves feed upon Wolves, and no mistake.
‘This evening I hauled the beast under the ramparts, cut
her body open, and had a stake driven quite fast through
it, to hold it asa bait. Harris and Bell are this moment
on the lookout for the rascals. Wolves here not only eat
their own kind, but are the most mischiévous animals in
the country; they eat the young Buffalo calves, the young ,
Antelopes, and the young of the Bighorn on all occa-
sions, besides Hares of different sorts, etc. Buffaloes
never scrape the snow with their feet, but with their
noses, notwithstanding all that has been said to the con-
trary, even by Mr. Catlin. Bell brought home the hind
parts, the head, and one forefoot of a new species of small
Hare. !
We are told these Hares are very plentiful, and yet
this is the first specimen we have seen, and sorry am I
1 This is no doubt the Lepus artemisia of Bachman, Jour, Philad. Acad.
viii, 1839, p. 94, later described and figured by Aud. and Bach., Quad. N.
Am. ii., 1851, p. 272, pl. 88. It isnow generally rated as a subspecies of the
common Cottontail, Z. sy/vaticus. Compare also LZ. nuttalli, Aud. and Bach.
ii, 1851, p. 300, pl. 94. — E. C.
VOL, 1.—4
50 AUDUBON
that it amounts to no specimen at all. Harris and I
walked several miles, but killed nothing; we found the
nest of a Sparrow-hawk, and Harris, assisted by my shoul-
ders, reached the nest, and drew out two eggs. Sprague
went across the hills eastward, and was fortunate enough
to shoot a superb specimen of the Arctic Bluebird. This
evening, Mr. Culbertson having told me the Rabbits,
such as Bell had brought, were plentiful on the road
to the steamboat landing, Harris, Bell, and I walked
there; but although we were very cautious, we saw
none, and only procured a Black-headed Grosbeak, which
was shot whilst singing delightfully. To-morrow morn-
ing Mr. Chardon leaves us in the keel-boat for the Black-
foot Fort, and Mr. Kipp will leave for the Crows early
next week.
Sune 22, Thursday. ‘We rose very late this morning,
with the exception of Provost, who went out shooting quite
early; but he saw nothing fit for his rifle. AJ] was bustle
after breakfast, as Mr. Chardon’s boat was loading, the
rigging being put in order, the men moving their effects,
etc., and a number of squaws, the wives of the men, were
moving to and fro for hours before the ultimate departure
of the boat, which is called the “Bee.”” The cargo being
arranged, thirty men went on board, including the com-
mander, friend Chardon, thirteen squaws, and a number
of children, all more or less half-breeds. The flag of
Fort Union was hoisted, the four-pounder run out of the
front gate, and by eleven o’clock all was ready. The
keel-boat had a brass swivel on her bows, and fired first,
then off went the larger gun, and many an Antelope and
Deer were doubtless frightened at the report that echoed
through the hills far and near. We bid adieu to our good
friend Chardon; and his numerous and willing crew, tak-
ing the cordelle to their shoulders, moved the boat against
a strong current in good style. Harris and Bell had gone
shooting and returned with several birds, among which
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 51
was a female Red-patched Woodpecker,! and a Lazuli
Finch. Dinner over, I went off with young McKenzie
after Hares; found none, but started a Grizzly Bear from
her lair. Owen McKenzie followed the Bear and I con-
tinued after Hares; he saw no more of Bruin, and I
not a Hare, and we both returned to the fort after a
tramp of three hours. As I was walking over the prairie,
I found an Indian’s skull (an Assiniboin) and put it in
my game pouch. Provost made a whistle to imitate the
noise made by the fawns at this season, which is used
to great advantage to decoy the female Deer; shortly
afterward Mr. Bonaventure returned, and a cart was sent
off at once to bring in a doe which he had killed below.
This species of Deer is much larger than the one we have
in Virginia, but perhaps no more so than those in Maine;
and as yet we cannot tell whether it may, or may not,
prove a distinct species. We took all its measurements,
and Bell and Provost are now skinning it. Its gross
weight is 140 lbs., which I think is heavier than any doe
I have seen before. The anima] is very poor and evi-
dently has fawns in the woods. The little new Lark that
I have named after Sprague has almost all the habits
of the Skylark of Europe. Whilst looking anxiously
after it, on the ground where we supposed it to be
singing, we discovered it was high over our heads, and
that sometimes it went too high for us to see it at all.
We have not yet been able to discover its nest. Bell
is of opinion that the Red-collared Ground Finch? has
its nest in the deserted holes of the Ground Squirrel,
1 This is the same hybrid Woodpecker which has been already noted on
p-14.—E.C.
2 That is, the Chestnut-collared Longspur, Calcarius ornatus, which Mr.
Bell was mistaken in supposing to breed in holes of the Ground Squirrels,
or Spermophiles, as it nests on the open ground, like Sprague’s Lark, Mc-
Cown’s Longspur, and most other small birds of the Western plains. But
the surmise regarding the nesting of Say’s Flycatcher is correct. This is a
near relative of the common Pewit Flycatcher, S. pi@de, and its nesting
places are similar. — E. C.
52 AUDUBON
and we intend to investigate this. He also believes
that Say’s Flycatcher builds in rocky caverns or fissures,
as he found the nest of a bird in some such place,
after having wounded one of this species, which retired
into the fissures of the rock, which he examined in
pursuit of the wounded bird. The nest had no eggs;
we are going to pay it a visit. Bell was busy most
of the day skinning birds, and Sprague drew a beau-
tiful plant. I found a number of wild roses in bloom,
quite sweet-scented, though single, and of a very pale
rose-color.
Fune 23, Friday. We have hada fine, warm day. The
hunters of Buffaloes started before daylight, and Squires
accompanied them; they are not expected back till some-
time to-morrow. Provost went across the river with them,
and with the assistance of his bleating whistle, brought
several does round him, and a good many Wolves. He
killed two does, drew them to a tree, and hung his coat
near them while he returned for help to bring them to the
fort. The hunters have a belief that a garment hung
near game freshly killed will keep the Wolves at bay for
atime; but there are exceptions to all rules, as when he
returned with the cart, a dozen hungry rascals of Wolves
had completely devoured one doe and all but one ham of
the other; this he brought to the fort. The does at this
season, on hearing the “bleat,” run to the spot, suppos-
ing, no doubt, that the Wolves have attacked their fawns,
and in rushing to the rescue, run towards the hunter, who
despatches them without much trouble, unless the woods
are thickly overgrown with bushes and brush, when more
difficulty is experienced in seeing them, although one may
hear them close by; but it is a cruel, deceitful, and un-
sportsmanlike method, of which I can never avail myself,
and which I try to discountenance. Bell was busy all
day with skins, and Sprague with flowers, which he de-
lineates finely. Mr. Kipp presented me with a complete
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 53
dress of a Blackfoot warrior, ornamented with many tufts
of Indian hair from scalps, and also with a saddle. After
dinner, Harris, who felt poorly all morning, was better,
and we went to pay a visit at the Opposition fort. We
started in a wagon with an old horse called Peter, which
stands fire like a stump. In going, we found we could
approach the birds with comparative ease, and we had
the good fortune to shoot three of the new Larks. I
killed two, and Harris one. When this species starts
from the ground, they fly in a succession of undula-
tions, which renders aim at them quite difficult; after
this, and in the same manner, they elevate themselves
to some considerable height, as if about to sing, and
presently pitch towards the ground, where they run pret-
tily, and at times stand still and quite erect for a few
minutes; we hope to discover their nests soon. Young
Meadow Larks, Red-shafted Woodpeckers, and the Red-
cheeked ditto,! are abundant. We reached Fort Mortimer
in due time; passed first between several sulky, half-
starved looking Indians, and came to the gate, where we
were received by the “bourgeois,”2a young man by the
name of Collins, from Hopkinsville, Ky. We found the
place in a most miserable condition, and about to be car-
ried away by the falling in of the banks on account of the
great rise of water in the Yellowstone, that has actually
dammed the Missouri. The current ran directly across,
and the banks gave way at such a rate that the men had
been obliged already to tear up the front of the fort and
remove it to the rear. To-morrow they are to remove
the houses themselves, should they stand the coming
night, which appeared to me somewhat dubious. We
1 This passage shows that Audubon observed individuals of the hybrid
Woodpecker which he considered identical with Colaptes cafer, and also
others which he regarded as belonging to the supposed new species — his
C. ayresit. — E. C,
2 The usual title or designation of the chief trader or person in charge of
any establishment of a fur company. — E. C,
54 AUDUBON
saw a large athletic man who has crossed the mountains
twice to the Pacific; he is a Philadelphian, named Wallis,
who had been a cook at Fort Union four years, but who
had finally deserted, lived for a time with the Crows, and
then joined the Opposition. These persons were very
polite to us, and invited us to remain and take supper
with them; but as I knew they were short of provisions,
I would not impose myself upon them, and so, with thanks
for their hospitality, we excused ourselves and returned to
Fort Union. As we were in search of birds, we saw a
small, whitish-colored Wolf trotting across the prairie,
which hereabouts is very extensive and looks well, though
the soil is poor. We put Peter to a trot and gained on
the Wolf, which did not see us until we were about one
hundred yards off; he stopped suddenly, and then went
off ata canter. Harris gave the whip to Peter, and off
we went, evidently gaining rapidly on the beast, when it
saw an Indian in its road; taking fright, it dashed to one
side, and was soon lost in a ravine. We congratulated
ourselves, on reaching the fort, that we had such good
fortune as to be able to sup and sleep here, instead of at
Fort Mortimer. Bell had taken a walk and brought ina
few birds. The prairie is covered with cacti, and Harris
and I suffered by them; my feet were badly pricked by
the thorns, which penetrated my boots at the junction of
the soles with the upper leathers. I have to-day heard
several strange stories about Grizzly Bears, all of which
I must have corroborated before I fully accept them.
The Otters and Musk-rats of this part of the country are
smaller than in the States; the first is the worst enemy
that the Beaver has.
Fune 24, Saturday. Bell killed a small Wolf last night,
and Harris wounded another. This morning Provost started
at daylight, and Bell followed him; but they returned with-
out game. After breakfast Harris went off on horseback,
and brought in a Sharp-tailed Grouse. He saw only one
\
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS et
r
Deer, species not identified. Sprague and I went off last,
but brought in nothing new. This afternoon I thought
would be a fair opportunity to examine the manners of
Sprague’s Lark on the wing. Bell drove Peter for me,
and I killed four Larks; we then watched the flight of
several. The male rises by constant undulations to a great
height, say one hundred yards or more; and whilst singing
its sweet-sounding notes, beats its wings, poised in the air
like a Hawk, without rising at this time; after which, and
after each burst of singing, it sails in divers directions,
forming three quarters of a circle or thereabouts, then
rises again, and again sings; the intervals between the
singing are longer than those which the song occupies,
and at times the bird remains so long in the air as to ren-
der it quite fatiguing to follow it with the eye. Sprague
thought one he watched yesterday remained in the air
about one hour. Bell and Harris watched one for more
than half an hour, and this afternoon I gazed upon one,
whilst Bell timed it, for thirty-six minutes. We continued
on to Fort Mortimer to see its condition, were received as
kindly as yesterday, and saw the same persons. It was
four o’clock, and the men were all at dinner, having been
obliged to wait until this time because they had no meat
in the fort, and their hunters had returned only one hour
and a half before. We found that the river had fallen
about fourteen inches since last evening, and the men
would not remove for the present. On our way home-
ward Bell shot a fifth Lark, and when we reached the
ravine I cut out of a tree-stump the nest of an Arctic Blue-
bird, with six eggs in it, of almost the same size and color
as those of the common Bluebird. Sprague had brought a
female of his Lark, and her nest containing five eggs; the
measurements of these two species I will write out to-mor-
row. Our Buffalo hunters are not yet returned, and I
think that Squires will feel pretty well fatigued when he
reaches the fort. Mr. Culbertson presented me with a pair
56 AUDUBON
of stirrups, and a most splendid Blackfoot crupper for
my saddle. The day has been warm and clear. We
caught seven catfish at the river near the fort, and most
excellent eating they are, though quite small when com-
pared with the monsters of this species on the Missouri
below.
Fune 25, Sunday. This day has been warm and the
wind high, at first from the south, but this afternoon from
the north. Little or nothing has been done in the way of
procuring birds or game, except that Harris and Mr.
Denig brought in several Arkansas Flycatchers. Not a
word from the hunters, and therefore they must have gone
far before they met Buffaloes. A few more catfish have
been caught, and they are truly excellent.
Sune 26, Monday. The hunters returned this afternoon
about three o’clock; 7. ¢., Squires and McKenzie; but the
carts did not reach the fort till after I had gone to bed.
They have killed three Antelopes, three bull Buffaloes, and
one Townsend’s Hare, but the last was lost through care-
lessness, and I am sorry for it. The men had eaten one of
the Antelopes, and the two others are fine males; Bell
skinned one, and saved the head and the fore-legs of the
other. One of them had the tips of the horns as much
crooked inwardly (backwards) as the horns of the Euro-
pean Chamois usually are. This afternoon early Provost
brought in a Deer of the large kind, and this also was
skinned. After this Harris and Bell went off and brought
in several Lazuli Finches, and a black Prairie Lark Finch
of the species brought from the Columbia by Townsend
and Nuttall. We caught several catfish and a very
curious sturgeon, of which Sprague took an outline with
the camera, and I here give the measurements. .. . It
had run on the shore, and was caught by one of the men.
I made a bargain this morning with the hunter Bona-
venture Le Brun to procure me ten Bighorns, at $10.00
,apiece, or the same price for any number he may get.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 57
Mr. Culbertson lent him old Peter, the horse, and I wrote
a petit billet to Mr. John Collins, to ask him to have them
ferried across the river, as our boat was away on a wood-
cutting expedition. As Le Brun did not return, of course
he was taken across, and may, perhaps, come back this
evening, or early to-morrow morning, with something
worth having. At this moment Bell has shot a Wolf
from the ramparts, and sadly crippled another, but it
made off somehow.
Fune 27, Tuesday. This morning was quite cool, and
the wind from the north. After breakfast Bell and Owen
McKenzie went off on horseback on this side of the river,
to see how far off the Buffaloes are, and they may probably
bring home some game. Sprague and I have been draw-
ing all day yesterday and most of to-day. Provost has
been making whistles to call the Deer; later he, Harris,
and I, walked to the hills to procure the black root plant
which is said to be the best antidote for the bite of the
rattlesnake. We found the root and dug one up, but the
plant is not yet in bloom. The leaves are long and nar-
row, and the flowers are said to resemble the dwarf sun-
flower. Harris shot two of what he calls the Small Shore
Lark, male and female; but beyond the size being a little
smaller than those found at Labrador, I cannot discover
any specific difference. From the top of the hills we saw
a grand panorama of a most extensive wilderness, with
Fort Union beneath us and far away, as well as the Yellow-
stone River, and the lake across the river. The hills across
the Missouri appeared quite low, and we could see the high
prairie beyond, forming the background. Bell and McKen-
zie returned, having shot a Wolf in a curious manner. On
reaching the top of a hill they found themselves close to
the Wolf. Bell’s horse ran quite past it, but young McKen-
zie shot and broke one fore-leg, and it fell, Bell then gave
his horse to McKenzie, jumped off, ran to the Wolf, and
took hold of it by the tail, pulling it towards the horses;
58 AUDUBON
but it got up and ran rapidly. Bell fired two shots in
its back with a pistol without stopping it, then he ran as
fast as he could, shot it in the side, and it fell. Bell says its
tail was longer than usual, but it was not measured, and
the Wolf was left on the prairie, as they had no means of
bringing it in. They saw an Antelope, some Magpies, and
a Swift Fox, but no Buffaloes, though they were fifteen
miles from the fort. They ran a Long-tailed Deer, and
describe its movements precisely as do Lewis and Clark.!
Between every three or four short leaps came the long leap
of fully twenty-five feet, if not more. The Kit or Swift Fox
which they saw stood by a bunch of wormwood, and whilst
lcoking at the hunters, was seen to brush off the flies with
his paws.
I am now going to take this book to Lewis Squires and
ask him to write in it his account of the Buffalo hunt.
(The following is in Mr. Squires’ handwriting: )
“ By Mr. Audubon’s desire I will relate the adventures
that befell me in my first Buffalo hunt, and I am in hopes
that among the rubbish a trifle, at least, may be obtained
which may be of use or interest to him. On the morning
of Friday, the 23d, before daylight, I was up, and in a
short time young McKenzie made his appearance. A
few minutes sufficed to saddle our horses, and be in readi-
ness for our contemplated hunt. We were accompanied
by Mr. Bonaventure the younger, one of the hunters of the
fort; and two carts to bring in whatever kind of meat
might be procured. We were ferried across the river in
a flatboat, and thence took our departure for the Buffalo
country. We passed through a wooded bottom for about
one mile, and then over a level prairie for about one mile
and a half, when we commenced the ascent of the bluffs
that bound the western side of the Missouri valley; our
1 “The black-tailed deer never runs at full speed, but bounds with
every foot from the ground at the same time, like the mule-deer.” (“ Lewis
and Clark,” ed. 1893.)
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 59
course then lay over an undulating prairie, quite rough,
and steep hills with small ravines between, and over dry
beds of streams that are made by the spring and fall
freshets. Occasionally we were favored with a level prairie
never exceeding two miles in extent. When the carts over-
took us, we exchanged our horses for them, and sat on
Buffalo robes on the bottom, our horses following on
behind us. As we neared the place where the Buffaloes had
been killed on the previous hunt, Bonaventure rode alone
to the top of a hill to discover, if possible, their where-
abouts; but to our disappointment nothing living was to
be seen. We continued on our way watching closely,
ahead, right and left. Three o’clock came and as yet
nothing had been killed; as none of us had eaten anything
since the night before, our appetites admonished us that it
was time to pay attention to them. McKenzie and Bona-
venture began to look about for Antelopes; but before
any were ‘comeatable,’ I fell asleep, and was awakened
by the report of a gun. Before we, in the carts, arrived at
the spot from whence this report proceeded, the hunters
had killed, skinned, and nearly cleaned the game, which
was a fine male Antelope. I regretted exceedingly I was
not awake when it was killed, as I might have saved the
skin for Mr. Audubon, as well as the head, but I was too
late. It was now about five o’clock, and one may well
imagine I was somewhat hungry. Owen McKenzie com-
menced eating the raw liver, and offered me a piece.
What others can eat, I felt assured I could at least taste.
I accordingly took it and ate quite a piece of it; to my
utter astonishment, I found it not only palatable but very
good; this experience goes far to convince me that our
prejudices make things appear more disgusting than fact
proves them to be. Our Antelope cut up and in the cart,
we proceeded on our ‘winding way,’ and scarcely had we
left the spot where the entrails of the animal remained,
before the Wolves and Ravens commenced coming from all
60 AUDUBON
quarters, and from places where a minute before there was
not a sign of one. We had not proceeded three hundred
yards at the utmost, before eight Wolves were about the
spot, and others approaching. On our way, both going
and returning, we saw a cactus of a conical shape, having
a light straw-colored, double flower, differing materially
from the flower of the flat cactus, which is quite com-
mon; had I had any means of bringing one in, I would
most gladly have done so, but I could not depend on
the carts, and as they are rather unpleasant companions,
I preferred awaiting another opportunity, which I hope
may come in a few days. We shot a young of Town-
send’s Hare, about seven or eight steps from us, with
about a dozen shot; I took good care of it until I left
the cart on my return to the fort, but when the carts ar-
rived it had carelessly been lost. This I regretted very
much, as Mr. Audubon wanted it. It was nearly sun-
set when Bonaventure discovered a Buffalo bull, so we
concluded to encamp for the night, and run the Buffaloes
in the morning. We accordingly selected a spot near a
pond of water, which in spring and fall is quite a large
lake, and near which there was abundance of good pasture;
our horses were soon unsaddled and hoppled, a good fire
blazing, and some of the Antelope meat roasting on sticks
before it. As soon as a ‘bit was done, we commenced
operations, and it was soon gone ‘the way of all flesh.’
I never before ate meat without salt or pepper, and until
then never fully appreciated these two /uxuries, as they
now seemed, nor can any one, until deprived of them, and
seated on a prairie as we were, or in some similar situation.
On the opposite side of the lake we saw a Grizzly Bear,
but he was unapproachable. After smoking our pipes we
rolled ourselves in our robes, with our saddles for pillows,
and were soon lost in a sound, sweet sleep. During the
night I was awakened by a crunching sound ; the fire had
died down, and I sat up and looking about perceived a
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 61
Wolf quietly feeding on the remains of our supper. One
of the men awoke at the same time and fired at the Wolf,
but without effect, and the fellow fled; we neither saw nor
heard more of him during the night. By daylight we were
all up, and as our horses had not wandered far, it was the
work of a few minutes to catch and saddle them. We rode
three or four miles before we discovered anything, but at
last saw a group of three Buffaloes some miles from us.
We pushed on, and soon neared them; before arriving at
their feeding-ground, we saw, scattered about, immense
quantities of pumice-stone, in detached pieces of all sizes;
several of the hills appeared to be composed wholly of it.
As we approached within two hundred yards of the Buf-
faloes they started, and away went the hunters after them.
My first intention of being merely a looker-on continued
up to this moment, but it was impossible to resist follow-
ing; almost unconsciously I commenced urging my horse
after them, and was soon rushing up hills and through
ravines; but my horse gave out, and disappointment and
anger followed, as McKenzie and Bonaventure succeeded
in killing two, and wounding a third, which escaped. As
soon as they had finished them, they commenced skin-
ning and cutting up one, which was soon in the cart, the
offal and useless meat being left on the ground. Again
the Wolves made their appearance as we were leaving;
they seemed shy, but Owen McKenzie succeeded in killing
one, which was old and useless. The other Buffalo was
soon skinned and in the cart. In the meantime McKenzie
and I started on horseback for water. The man who had
charge of the keg had let it all run out, and most fortu-
nately none of us had wanted water until now. We rode
to a pond, the water of which was very salt and warm, but
we had to drink this or none; we did so, filled our flasks
for the rest of the party, and a few minutes afterward
rejoined them. We started again for more meat to com-
plete our load. I observed, as we approached the Buf-
62 AUDUBON
faloes, that they stood gazing at us with their heads erect,
lashing their sides with their tails; as soon as they dis-
covered what we were at, with the quickness of thought
they wheeled, and with the most surprising speed, for an
animal apparently so clumsy and awkward, flew before us.
I could hardly imagine that these enormous animals could
move so quickly, or realize that their speed was as great
as it proved to be; and I doubt if in this country one
horse in ten can be found that will keep up with them.
We rode five or six miles before we discovered any more.
At last we saw a single bull, and while approaching him
we started two others; slowly we wended our way towards
them until within a hundred yards, when away they went.
I had now begun to enter into the spirit of the chase, and
off I started, full speed, down a rough hill in swift pursuit;
at the bottom of the hill was a ditch about eight feet wide ;
the horse cleared this safely. I continued, leading the
others by some distance, and rapidly approaching the
Buffaloes. At this prospect of success my feelings can
better be imagined than described. I kept the lead of the
others till within thirty or forty yards of the Buffaloes,
when I began making preparations to fire as soon as I was
sufficiently near; imagine, if possible, my disappointment
when I discovered that now, when all my hopes of success
were raised to the highest pitch, I was fated to meet a
reverse as mortifying as success would have been gratify.
ing. My horse failed, and slackened his pace, despite
every effort of mine to urge him on; the other hunters
rushed by me at full speed, and my horse stopped alto-
gether. I saw the others fire; the animal swerved a little,
but still kept on. After breathing my horse a while, I
succeeded in starting him up again, followed after them,
and came up in time to fire one shot ere the animal was
brought down. I think that I never saw an eye so fero-
cious in expression as that of the wounded Buffalo; rolling
wildly in its socket, inflamed as the eye was, it had the
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 63
most frightful appearance that can be imagined; and in
fact, the picture presented by the Buffalo as a whole is
quite beyond my powers of description. The fierce eyes,
blood streaming from his sides, mouth, and nostrils, he was
the wildest, most unearthly-looking thing it ever fell to my
lot to gaze upon. His sufferings were short; he was soon
cut up and placed in the cart, and we retraced our steps
homeward. Whilst proceeding towards our camping-
ground for the night, two Antelopes were killed, and placed
on our carts. Whenever we approached these animals
they were very curious to see what we were ; they would
run, first to the right, and then to the left, then suddenly
run straight towards us until within gun-shot, or nearly
so. The horse attracted their attention more than the
rider, and if a slight elevation or bush was between us, they
were easily killed. As soon as their curiosity was gratified
they would turn and run, but it was not difficult to shoot
before this occurred. When they turned they would fly
over the prairie for about a mile, when they would again
stop and look at us. During the day we suffered very
much for want of water, and drank anything that had the
appearance of it, and most of the water, in fact all of it,
was either impregnated with salt, sulphur, or magnesia —
most disgusting stuff at any other time, but drinkable now.
The worst of all was some rain-water that we were obliged
to drink, first placing our handkerchiefs over the cup to
strain it, and keep the worms out of our mouths. I drank
it, and right glad was I to get even this. We rode about
five miles to where we encamped for the night, near a little
pond of water. In a few minutes we had a good fire of
Buffalo dung to drive away mosquitoes that were in clouds
about us. The water had taken away our appetites com-
pletely, and we went to bed without eating any supper.
Our horses and beds were arranged as on the previous
evening. McKenzie and I intended starting for the fort
early inthe morning. We saw a great many Magpies, Cur-
64 AUDUBON
lews, Plovers, Doves, and numbers of Antelopes. About
daylight I awoke and roused McKenzie; a man had gone
for the horses, but after a search of two hours returned
without finding them; all the party now went off except
one man and myself, and all returned without success
except Bonaventure, who found an old horse that had been
lost since April last. He was despatched on this to the
fort to get other horses, as we had concluded that ours
were either lost or stolen. As soon as he had gone, one
of the men started again in search of the runaways, and in
a short time returned with them. McKenzie and I soon
rode off. We saw two Grizzly Bears at the lake again.
Our homeward road we made much shorter by cutting off
several turns; we overtook Bonaventure about four miles
from our encampment, and passed him. We rode forty
miles to the fort in a trifle over six hours. We had trav-
elled in all about one hundred and twenty miles. Bona-
venture arrived two hours after we did, and the carts came
in the evening.”
Wednesday, Fune 28. Thisis an account of Squires’ Buf-
falo hunt, his first one, which he has kindly written in my
journal and which I hope some day to publish. This
morning was very cloudy, and we had some rain, but from
ten o’clock until this moment the weather has been beau-
tiful. Harris shot a handsome though rather small Wolf;
I have made a large drawing, and Sprague a fine dimin-
ished one, of the rascal. The first news we had this morn-
ing was that the ferry flat had been stolen last night,
probably by the deserters from the fort who have had the
wish to return to St. Louis. Some person outside of the
fort threw a large stone at an Indian woman, and her hus-
band fired in the dark, but no one could be found on
searching. There is much trouble and discomfort to the
managers of such an establishment as this. Provost went
shooting, but saw nothing. Young McKenzie and another
man were sent to find the scow, but in vain. On their re-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 65
turn they said a hunter from Fort Mortimer had brought
a Bighorn, and skinned it, and that he would let me have
it if I wished. I sent Bell and Squires, and they brought
the skin in. It proves to be that of an old female in the
act of shedding her winter coat, and I found that she was
covered with abundance of downy wool like the Antelopes
under similar circumstances. Mr. Larpenteur caught five
small catfish, which we ate at breakfast. After dinner Le
Brun returned home, but brought only the skin of a young
female of the White-tailed Deer, and I was surprised to see
that it had the germ of a horn about one inch long; the
skin was quite red, and it is saved. A young Elk was
brought in good condition, as the hunters here know how
to save skins properly; it was too young, however, to take
measurements. The horns were in velvet about six inches
long. When one sees the powerful bones and muscles of
this young animal, one cannot fail to think of the great
strength of the creature when mature, and its ability to
bear with ease the enormous antlers with which its head is
surmounted. The flesh of the Antelope is not comparable
with that of the Deer, being dry and usually tough. It
is very rarely indeed that a fat Antelope is killed. Bell
has been very busy in skinning small birds and animals.
We procured a young Red-shafted Woodpecker, killed by
an Indian boy with a bow and arrow. Mr. Kipp’s ‘ Mack-
inaw ” was launched this evening, and sent across the river
with men to relieve the charcoal-burners; she returned
immediately and we expect that Mr. Kipp’s crew will go
off to-morrow about twelve. I was told a curious anecdote
connected with a Grizzly Bear, that I will write down; it
is as follows: One of the exgagés of the Company was
forced to run away, having killed an Indian woman, and
made his way to the Crow Fort, three hundred miles
up the Yellowstone River. When he arrived there he
was in sad plight, having his own squaw and one or two
children along, who had all suffered greatly with hunger,
VOL. 11.—5
66 AUDUBON
thirst, and exposure. They were received at the fort, but
in a short time, less than a week afterwards, he again ran
off with his family, and on foot. The discovery was soon
made, and two men were sent after him; but he eluded
their vigilance by keeping close in ravines, etc. The men
returned, and two others with an Indian were despatched
on a second search, and after much travel saw the man
and his family on an island, where he had taken refuge
from his pursuers. The Buffalo-hide canoe in which he
had attempted to cross the river was upset, and it was with
difficulty that he saved his wife and children. They were
now unable to escape, and when talking as to the best way
to secure their return to the fort, the soldiers saw him
walk to the body of a dead Buffalo lying on the shore of
the island, with the evident intention of procuring some of
it for food. As he stooped to cut off a portion, to his
utter horror he saw a small Grizzly Bear crawl out from
the carcass. It attacked him fiercely, and so suddenly
that he was unable to defend himself; the Bear lacerated
his face, arms, and the upper part of his body in a fright-
ful manner, and would have killed him, had not the In-
dian raised his gun and fired at the Bear, wounding him
severely, while a second shot killed him. The engagé
was too much hurt to make further effort to escape, and
one of the Company’s boats passing soon after, he and his
family were taken back to the fort, where he was kept to
await his trial.
Fune 29, Thursday. It rained hard during the night,
but at dawn Provost went shooting and returned to
dinner, having shot a doe, which was skinned and the
meat saved. He saw a Grouse within a few feet of
him, but did not shoot, as he had only a rifle. Bell and
I took a long walk, and shot several birds. We both
were surprised to find a flock of Cliff Swallows endeavor-
ing to build nests beneath the ledges of a clay bank.
Watching the moment when several had alighted against
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 67
the bank, I fired, and killed three. Previous to this, as I
was walking along a ravine, a White Wolf ran past within
fifteen or twenty paces of me, but I had only very small
shot, and did not care to wound where I could not kill.
The fellow went off at a limping gallop, and Bell after it,
squatting whenever the Wolf stopped to look at him; but
at last the rascal lost himself in a deep ravine, and a few
minutes after we saw him emerge from the shrubs some
distance off, and go across the prairie towards the river.
Bell saw two others afterwards, and if ever there was a
country where Wolves are surpassingly abundant, it is the
one we now are in. Wolves are in the habit of often lying
down on the prairies, where they form quite a bed, work-
ing at bones the while. We found a nest of the Prairie
Lark, with four eggs. We saw Arctic Bluebirds, Say’s
Flycatcher and Lazuli Finches. Say’s Flycatcher has a
note almost like the common Pewee. They fly over
the prairies like Hawks, looking for grasshoppers, upon
which they pounce, and if they lose sight of them, they
try again at another place. We returned home to dinner,
and after this a discussion arose connected with the
Red-shafted Woodpecker. We determined to go and
procure one of the young, and finding that these have
pale-yellow shafts, instead of deep orange-red, such as the
old birds have, the matter was tested and settled according
to my statement. Harris and I went off after the doe
killed this morning, and killed another, but as I have now
skins enough, the measurements only were taken, and the
head cut off, which I intend drawing to-morrow. Harris
shot also a Grouse, and a Woodpecker that will prove a
Canadensis ; he killed the male also, but could not find it,
and we found seven young Red-shafted Woodpeckers in
one nest. I killed a female Meadow Lark, the first seen in
this country by us. Provost told me (and he is a respect-
able man) that, during the breeding season of the Moun-
tain Ram, the battering of the horns is often heard as far
68 AUDUBON
as a mile away, and that at such times they are approached
with comparative ease; and there is no doubt that it is
during such encounters that the horns are broken and
twisted as I have seen them, and not by leaping from high
places and falling on their horns, as poetical travellers
have asserted. The fact is that when these animals leap
from any height they alight firmly on all their four feet.
At this season the young are always very difficult to catch,
and I have not yet seen one of them. Harris, Bell, and
young McKenzie are going Bighorn hunting to-morrow,
and I hope they will be successful; I, alas! am no longer
young and alert enough for the expedition. We find the
mosquitoes very troublesome, and very numerous.
Fune 80, Friday. The weather was dark, with the wind
at the northwest, and looked so like rain that the hunters
did not start as they had proposed. Sprague, Harris, and
Bell went out, however, after small game. I began draw-
ing at five this morning, and worked almost without cessa-
tion till after three, when, becoming fatigued for want of
practice, I took a short walk, regretting I could no longer
draw twelve or fourteen hours without a pause or thought
of weariness. It is now raining quite hard. Mr. Larpen-
teur went after a large tree to make a ferry-boat, and the
new skiff was begun this morning. I sent Provost to Fort
Mortimer to see if any one had arrived from below; he
found a man had done so last evening and brought letters
to Mr. Collins, requesting him to do all he can for us.
He also reported that a party of Sioux had had a battle
with the Gros Ventres, and had killed three of the latter
and a white man who lived with them as a blacksmith.
The Gros Ventres, on the other hand, had killed eight of
the Sioux and put them to flight. The blacksmith killed
two Sioux, and the enemies cut off one leg and one arm,
scalped him, and left the mangled body behind them. It
is said there is now no person living who can recollect the
manner in which the bitter enmity of these two nations
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 69
originated. The Yellowstone River is again rising fast,
and Mr. Kipp will have tough times before he reaches
Fort Alexander, which was built by Mr. Alexander Cul-
bertson, our present host, and the Company had it hon-
ored by his name. When a herd of Buffaloes is chased,
although the bulls themselves run very swiftly off, their
speed is not to be compared to that of the cows and year-
lings; for these latter are seen in a few minutes to leave
the bulls behind them, and as cows and young Buffaloes
are preferable to the old males, when the hunters are well
mounted they pursue the cows and young ones invariably.
Last winter Buffaloes were extremely abundant close to
this fort, so much so that while the people were engaged
in bringing hay in carts, the Buffaloes during the night
came close in, and picked up every wisp that was dropped.
An attempt to secure them alive was made by strewing
hay in such manner as to render the bait more and more
plentiful near the old fort, which is distant about two
hundred yards, and which was once the property of Mr.
Sublette and Co.; but as the hogs and common cattle
belonging to the fort are put up there regularly at sunset,
the Buffaloes ate the hay to the very gates, but would not
enter the enclosure, probably on account of the different
smells issuing therefrom. At this period large herds slept
in front of the fort, but just before dawn would remove
across the hills about one mile distant, and return towards
night. An attempt was made to shoot them with a can-
non — a four-pounder; three were killed and several
wounded. Still the Buffaloes came to their sleeping
ground at evening, and many were killed during the
season. I saw the head of one Mr. Culbertson shot,
and the animal must have been of unusual size.
Fuly 1, Saturday. It was still raining when I got up,
but a few minutes later the sun was shining through one
of our windows, and the wind being at northwest we an-
ticipated a fine day. The ground was extremely wet and
70 AUDUBON
muddy, but Harris and Bell went off on horseback, and
returned a few minutes after noon. They brought some
birds and had killed a rascally Wolf. Bell found the nest
of the Arkansas Flycatcher. The nest and eggs, as well
as the manners, of this bird resemble in many ways those
of our King-bird. The nest was in an elm, twenty or
twenty-five feet above the ground, and he saw another in
a similar situation. Mr. Culbertson and I walked to the
Pilot Knob with a spy-glass, to look at the present condi-
tion of Fort Mortimer. This afternoon Squires, Provost,
and I walked there, and were kindly received as usual.
We found all the people encamped two hundred yards
from the river, as they had been obliged to move from
the tumbling fort during the rain of last night. Whilst
we were there a trapper came in with a horse and told us
the following: This man and four others left that fort on
the 1st of April last on an expedition after Beavers. They
were captured by a party of about four hundred Sioux,
who took them prisoners and kept him one day and a
half, after which he was released, but his companions were
kept prisoners. He crossed the river and found a horse
belonging to the Indians, stole it, and reached the fort at
last. He looked miserable indeed, almost without a rag
of clothing, long hair, filthy beyond description, and hav-
ing only one very keen, bright eye, which looked as if
he was both proud and brave. .He had subsisted for
the last eleven days on pomme blanche and the thick
leaves of the cactus, which he roasted to get rid of the
thorns or spines, and thus had fared most miserably; for,
previous to the capture of himself and his companions,
he had upset his bull canoe and lost his rifle, which to
a trapper is, next to life, his dependence. When he was
asked if he would have some dinner, he said that he
had forgotten the word, but would try the taste of meat
again. Mr. Collins was very polite to me, and promised
me a hunter for the whole of next week, expressly to
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 71
shoot Bighorns. I hope this promise may be better
kept than that of Mr. Chardon, who told me that should
he have one killed within forty miles he would send Alexis
back with it at once. We heard some had been killed,
but this may not be true; at any rate, men are men all
over the world, and a broken promise is not unheard-of.
This evening Mr, Culbertson presented me with a splendid
dress, as well as one to Harris and one to Bell, and prom-
ised one to Sprague, which I have no doubt he will have.
Harris and Sprague went off to procure Woodpeckers’
nests, and brought the most curious set of five birds that
I ever saw, and which I think will puzzle all the naturalists
in the world. The first was found near the nest, of which
Sprague shot the female, a light-colored Red-shafted Wood-
pecker. It proved to be of the same color, but had the
rudiments of black stripes on the cheeks. Next, Sprague
shot an adult yellow-winged male, with the markings prin-
cipally such as are found in the Eastern States. Harris
then shot a young Red-shafted, just fledged, with a black
stripe on the cheek. His next shot was a light-colored
Red-shafted male, with black cheeks, and another still, a
yellow Red-shafted with a red cheek! After all this Mr.
Culbertson proposed to run a sham Buffalo hunt again.
He, Harris, and Squires started on good horses, went
about a mile, and returned full tilt, firing and cracking.
Squires fired four times and missed once. Harris did not
shoot at all; but Mr. Culbertson fired eleven times, start-
ing at the onset with an empty gun, snapped three times,
and reached the fort with his gun loaded. A more won-
derful rider I never saw.
Fuly 2, Sunday. The weather was cool and pleasant
this morning, with no mosquitoes, which indeed — plenti-
ful and troublesome as they are— Provost tells me are
1 The above is a very good example of the way these Woodpeckers vary
in color, presenting a case which, as Audubon justly observes, is a ‘‘ puzzle
to all the naturalists in the world.” See note, p. 14.—E. C.
72 AUDUBON
more scarce this season than he ever knew them thus far
up the Missouri. Sprague finished his drawing of the
doe’s head about dinner-time, and it looks well. After
dinner he went after the puzzling Woodpeckers, and
brought three, all, different from each other. Mr. Cul-
bertson, his squaw wife, and I rode to Fort Mortimer,
accompanied by young McKenzie, and found Mr. Collins
quite ill. We saw the hunters of that fort, and they
promised to supply me with Bighorns, at ten dollars
apiece in the flesh, and also some Black-tailed Deer, and
perhaps a Grizzly Bear. This evening they came to the
fort for old Peter and a mule, to bring in their game;
and may success attend them! When we returned, Harris
started off with Mr. Culbertson and his wife to see the
condition of Mr. Collins, to whom he administered some
remedies. Harris had an accident that was near being of
a serious nature; as he was getting into the wagon, think-
ing that a man had hold of the reins, which was not the
case, his foot was caught between the axle-tree and the
wagon, he was thrown down on his arm and side, and hurt
to some extent; fortunately he escaped without serious
injury, and does not complain much this evening, as he
has gone on the ramparts to shoot a Wolf. Sprague saw
a Wolf in a hole a few yards from the fort, but said not
a word of it till after dinner, when Bell and Harris went
there and shot it through the head. It was a poor, mis-
erable, crippled old beast, that could not get out of the
hole, which is not more than three or four feet deep.
After breakfast we had a hunt after Hares or Rabbits,
and Harris saw two of them, but was so near he did not
care to shoot at them. Whilst Harris and Mr. Culbert-
son went off to see Mr. Collins, Mr. Denig and I walked
off with a bag and instruments, to take off the head of a
three-years-dead Indian chief, called the White Cow.
Mr. Denig got upon my shoulders and into the branches
near the coffin, which stood about ten feet above ground.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 73
The coffin was lowered, or rather tumbled, down, and the
cover was soon hammered off; to my surprise, the feet
were placed on the pillow, instead of the head, which lay
at the foot of the coffin— if a long box may so be called.
Worms innumerable were all about it; the feet were
naked, shrunk, and dried up. The head had still the hair
on, but was twisted off in a moment, under jaw and all.
The body had been first wrapped up in a Buffalo skin
without hair, and then in another robe with the hair on,
as usual; after this the dead man had been enveloped in
an American flag, and over this a superb scarlet blanket.
We left all on the ground but the head. Squires, Mr.
Denig and young Owen McKenzie went afterwards to try
to replace the coffin and contents in the tree, but in vain;
the whole affair fell to the ground, and there it lies; but
I intend to-morrow to have it covered with earth. The
history of this man is short, and I had it from Mr. Lar-
penteur, who was in the fort at the time of his decease,
or self-committed death. He was a good friend to the
whites, and knew how to procure many Buffalo robes for
them; he was also a famous orator, and never failed to
harangue his people on all occasions. He was, however,
consumptive, and finding himself about to die, he sent
his squaw for water, took an arrow from his quiver, and
thursting it into his heart, expired, and was found dead
when his squaw returned to the lodge. He was “ buried”
in the above-mentioned tree by the orders of Mr. McKen-
zie, who then commanded this fort. Mr. Culbertson drove
me so fast, and Harris so much faster, over this rough
ground, that I feel quite stiff. I must not forget to say
that we had another sham Buffalo chase over the prairie
in front of the fort, the riders being Squires, young
McKenzie, and Mr. Culbertson; and I was glad and proud
to see that Squires, though so inexperienced a hunter,
managed to shoot five shots within the mile, McKenzie
eleven, and Mr. Culbertson eight. Harris killed an old
74 AUDUBON
Wolf, which he thought was larger and fatter than any
killed previously. It was very large, but on examina-
tion it was found to be poor and without teeth in the
upper jaw.
Fuly 38, Monday. We have had a warm night and day;
after breakfast we all six crossed the river in the newly
built skiff, and went off in divers directions. Provost
and I looked thoroughly through the brushwood, and
walked fully six miles from the fort; we saw three Deer,
but so far were they that it was useless to shoot. Deer-
shooting on the prairies is all hazard; sometimes the ani-
mals come tripping along within ten yards of you, and at
other times not nearer can you get than one hundred and
fifty yards, which was the case this day. The others
killed nothing of note, and crossed the river back to the
fort two hours at least before us; and we shot and bawled
out for nearly an hour, before the skiff was sent for us.
I took a swim, found the water very pleasant, and was
refreshed by my bath. The Bighorn hunters returned
this afternoon with a Bighorn, a female, and also a
female Black-tailed Deer. I paid them $15 for the two,
and they are to start again to-morrow evening, or the
next day.
Fuly 4, Tuesday. Although we had some fireworks
going on last evening, after I had laid myself down for the
night, the anniversary of the Independence of the United
States has been almost the quietest I have ever spent,
as far as my recollection goes. I was drawing the whole
day, and Sprague was engaged in the same manner, paint-
ing a likeness of Mr. Culbertson. Harris and Bell went
off to try and procure a buck of the Long White-tailed
Deer, and returned after dinner much fatigued and hungry
enough. Bell had shot at a Deer and wounded it very
severely; the poor thing ran on, but soon lay down, for
the blood and froth were gushing out of its mouth. Bell
saw the buck lying down, and not being an experienced
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 9%
hunter, thought it was dead, and instead of shooting it
again, went back to call Harris; when they returned, the
Deer was gone, and although they saw it again and again,
the Deer outwitted them, and, as I have said, they re-
turned weary, with no Deer. After dinner I spoke to Mr.
Culbertson on the subject, and he told me that the Deer
could probably be found, but that most likely the Wolves
would devour it. He prepared to send young McKenzie
with both my friends; the horses were soon saddled, and
the three were off at a gallop. The poor buck’s carcass
was found, but several Wolves and Turkey Buzzards had
fared well upon it; the vertebra only were left, with a
few bits of skin and portions of the horns in velvet.
These trophies were all that they brought home. It was
a superb and very large animal, and I am very sorry for
the loss of it, as I am anxious to draw the head of one of
such a size as they represent this to have been. They
ran after a Wolf, which gave them leg bail. Meanwhile
Squires and Provost started with the skiff in a cart to go
up the river two miles, cross, and camp on the opposite
shore. The weather became very gloomy and chill. In
talking with Mr. Culbertson he told me that no wise man
would ever follow a Buffalo bull immediately in his track,
even in a hunt, and that no one well initiated would ever
run after Buffaloes between the herd and another hunter,
as the latter bears on the former ever and anon, and places
him in imminent danger. Buffalo cows rarely, if ever,
turn on the assailant, but bulls oftentimes will, and are
so dangerous that many a fine hunter has been gored and
killed, as well as his horse.
Fuly 5, Wednesday. It rained the whole of last night
and the weather has been bad all day. I am at the Big-
horn’s head, and Sprague at Mr. Culbertson. Provost
and Squires returned drenched and hungry, before dinner.
They had seen several Deer, and fresh tracks of a large
Grizzly Bear. They had waded through mud and water
76 AUDUBON ~
enough for one day, and were well fatigued. Harris and
Bell both shot at Wolves from the ramparts, and as these
things are of such common occurrence I will say no more
about them, unless we are in want of one of these beasts.
Harris and I went over to see Mr. Collins, who is much
better; his hunters had not returned. We found the men
there mostly engaged in playing cards and backgammon.
The large patches of rose bushes are now in full bloom,
and they are so full of sweet fragrance that the air is per-
fumed by them. The weather looks clear towards the
north, and I expect a fine to-morrow. Old Provost has
been telling me much of interest about the Beavers, once
so plentiful, but now very scarce. It takes about seventy
Beaver skins to make a pack of a hundred pounds; ina
good market this pack is worth five hundred dollars, and
in fortunate seasons a trapper sometimes made the large
sum of four thousand dollars. Formerly, when Beavers
were abundant, companies were sent with as many as
thirty and forty men, each with from eight to a dozen
traps, and two horses. When at a propitious spot, they
erected a camp, and every man sought his own game; the
skins alone were brought to the camp, where a certain
number of men always remained to stretch and dry them.
Fuly 6, Thursday. The weather has been pleasant, with
the wind at northwest, and the prairies will dry a good
deal. After breakfast Harris, Bell, and McKenzie went
off on horseback. They saw a Red Fox of the country,}
which is ‘different from those of the States; they chased
it, and though it ran slowly at first, the moment it saw
the hunters at full gallop, it ran swiftly from them.
McKenzie shot with a rifle and missed it. They saw
fresh tracks of the small Hare, but not any of the animals
themselves. After dinner I worked at Mr. Culbertson’s
1 Vulpes utah of Aud. and Bach., Quad. N. Am. iii., 1853, p. 255, pl. 151,
or V. macrourus of Baird, as already noted. This is the Western variety of
the common Red Fox, now usually called Vulpes fulous macrourus. —E. C.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 77
head and dress, and by evening had the portrait nearly
finished. At four o’clock Harris, Bell, and Sprague went
across the river in the skiff; Sprague to take a view of
the fort, the others to hunt. MHarris and Bell shot twice
at a buck, and killed it, though only one buckshot entered
the thigh. Whilst we were sitting at the back gate of
the fort, we saw a parcel of Indians coming towards the
place, yelling and singing what Mr. Culbertson told me
was the song of the scalp dance; we saw through the
telescope that they were fourteen in number, with their
faces painted black, and that it was a detachment of a war
party. When within a hundred yards they all stopped, as
if awaiting an invitation; we did not hurry as to this,
and they seated themselves on the ground and looked at
us, while Mr. Culbertson sent Mr. Denig to ask them to
come in by the front gate of the fort, and put them in the
Indian house, a sort of camp for the fellows. They all
looked miserably poor, filthy beyond description, and
their black faces and foully smelling Buffalo robes made
them appear to me like so many devils. The leader, who
was well known to be a famous rascal, and was painted
red, was a tall, well-formed man. The party had only
three poor guns, and a few had coarse, common lances;
every man had a knife, and the leader was armed with a
stick in which were inserted three blades of butcher’s-
knives; a blow from this weapon would doubtless kill a
man. Some of the squaws of the fort, having found that
they were Assiniboins, went to meet them; they'took one
of these, and painted her face black, as a sign of friend-
ship. Most of these mighty warriors had a lump of fresh
Buffalo meat slung on his back, which was all traded for
by Mr. Larpenteur, who gave them in exchange some dried
meat, not worth the notice of Harris’s dog, and some
tobacco. The report of their expedition is as follows:
Their party at first consisted of nearly fifty; they trav-
elled several hundred miles in search of Blackfeet, and
78 AUDUBON
having discovered a small troop of them, they hid till the
next morning, when at daylight (this is always the time
they prefer for an attack) they rushed upon the enemy,
surprised them, killed one at the onset, and the rest took
to flight, leaving guns, horses, shields, lances, etc., on
the ground. The Assiniboins took several guns and
seven horses, and the scalp of the dead Indian. It hap-
_pened that the man they killed had some time ago killed
the father of their chief, and he was full of joy. After
eating and resting awhile, they followed the trail of the
Blackfeet, hoping to again surprise them; but not seeing
them, they separated into small parties, and it is one of
these parties that is now with us. The chief, to show his
pride and delight at killing his enemy, has borrowed a
drum; and the company have nearly ever since been yell-
ing, singing, and beating that beastly tambour. Boucher-
ville came to me, and told me that if the swamp over the
river was sufficiently dried by to-morrow morning, he
would come early with a companion for two horses, and
would go after Bighorns. He returned this afternoon
from a Buffalo hunt and had killed six. These six ani-
mals, all bulls, will suffice for Fort Mortimer only three
days. A rascally Indian had stolen his gun and Big-
horn bow; the gun he said he could easily replace, but
the loss of the bow he regretted exceedingly.
Fuly 7, Friday. This morning the dirty Indians, who
could have washed had they so minded, were beating the
tambour and singing their miserable scalp song, until
Mr. Culbertson ordered the drum taken away, and gave
them more tobacco and some vermilion to bedaub their
faces. They were permitted to remain about the fort the
remainder of the day, and the night coming they will
again be sheltered; but they must depart to-morrow
morning. After breakfast Sprague worked on the view
of the fort. I went on with the portrait of Mr. Culbert-
son, who is about as bad a sitter as his wife, whose
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 79
portrait is very successful, notwithstanding her extreme
restlessness. After dinner Harris, Bell, and I started on
foot, and walked about four miles from the fort; the day
was hot, and horseflies and mosquitoes pretty abundant,
but we trudged on, though we saw nothing; we had gone
after Rabbits, the tracks of which had been seen previ-
ously. We walked immediately near the foot of the clay
hills which run from about a mile from and above the fort
to the Lord knows where. We first passed one ravine
where we saw some very curious sandstone formations,
coming straight out horizontally from the clay banks
between which we were passing; others lay loose and de-
tached; they had fallen down, or had been washed out
some time or other. All were compressed in such a
manner that the usual form was an oval somewhat de-
pressed in the centre; but, to give you some idea of these
formations, I will send you a rough sketch. Those in the
banks extended from five to seven feet, and the largest
one on the ground measured a little less than ten feet.
Bell thought they would make good sharpening-stones,
but I considered them too soft. They were all smooth,
and the grain was alike in all. We passed two much
depressed and very broken ravines, and at last reached
the Rabbit ground. Whilst looking at the wild scenery
around, and the clay hills on the other side of the Mis-
souri opposite the fort, I thought that if all these were
granite, the formation and general appearance would re-
semble the country of Labrador, though the grandeur and
sublimity of the latter far surpass anything that I have
seen since I left them forever. I must not forget to say
that on our way we passed through some grasses with
bearded shafts, so sharp that they penetrated our mocca-
sins and entered our feet and ankles, and in the shade of
a stumpy ash-tree we took off our moccasins and drew the
spines out. The Lazuli Finches and Arctic Bluebirds
sang in our view; but though we beat all the clumps of
80 AUDUBON
low bushes where the Rabbits must go in, whether dur-
ing night or day, we did not start one. We saw a Wolf
which ran close by, reached the brow of the hill, and kept
where he could watch our every motion; this they do on
all possible occasions. We were all very warm, so we
rested awhile, and ate some service-berries, which I found
good; the gooseberries were small and green, and almost
choked Harris with their sharp acidity. On our return,
as we were descending the first deep ravine, a Raven flew
off close by; it was so near Bell that he had no time to
shoot. I followed it and although loaded with No. 6
shot, I drew my trigger and the bird fell dead; only one
shot had touched it, but that had passed through the
lungs. After we reached the prairie I shot a Meadow
Lark, but lost it, as we had unfortunately not taken Bragg
(Harris’s dog). We saw a patch of wood called in these
regions a “ Point;” we walked towards it for the purpose
of shooting Deer. I was sent to the lower end, Bell took
one side, and Harris the other, and the hound we had with
us was sent in; no Deer there, however, and we made for
the fort, which we reached hot and thirsty enough after
our long walk. As soon as I was cooled I took a good
swim. I think the Indians hereabouts poor swimmers;
they beat the water with their arms, attempting to “nage
ala brasse;” but, alas! it is too bad to mention. Iam
told, however, that there are no good specimens to judge
from at the fort, so this is not much of an opinion. It is
strange how very scarce snakes of every description are,
as well as insects, except mosquitoes and _horseflies.
Young McKenzie had been sent to seek for the lost ferry-
boat, but returned without success; the new one is ex-
pected to be put in the water to-morrow evening. Squires
and Provost had the skiff carried overland three miles,
and they crossed the river in it with the intention tg
remain hunting until Sunday night.
Fuly 8, Saturday. Mr. Culbertson told me this morn-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS SI
ing that last spring early, during a snow-storm, he and
Mr. Larpenteur were out in an Indian lodge close by the
fort, when they heard the mares which had young colts
making much noise; and that on going out they saw a
single Wolf that had thrown down one of the colts, and
was about doing the same with another. They both made
towards the spot with their pistols; and, fearing that the
Wolf might kill both the colts, fired before reaching the
spot, when too far off to take aim. Master Wolf ran off,
but both colts bear evidence of his teeth to this day.
When I came down this morning early, I was delighted
to see the dirty and rascally Indians walking off to their
lodge on the other side of the hills, and before many
days they will be at their camp enjoying their merriment
(rough and senseless as it seems to me), yelling out their
scalp song, and dancing. Now this dance, to commemo-
rate the death of an enemy, is a mere bending and slack-
ening of the body, and patting of the ground with both
feet at once, in very tolerable time with their music.
Our squaws yesterday joined them in this exemplary cere-
mony; one was blackened, and all the others painted with
vermilion. The art of painting in any color is to mix
the color desired with grease of one sort or another; and
when well done, it will stick on for a day or two, if not
longer. Indians are not equal to the whites in the art of
dyeing Porcupine quills; their ingredients are altogether
too simple and natural to equal the knowledge of chemi-
cals. Mr. Denig dyed a good quantity to-day for Mrs.
Culbertson; he boiled water in a tin kettle with the quills
put in when the water boiled, to remove the oil attached
naturally to them; next they were thoroughly washed, and
fresh water boiled, wherein he placed the color wanted,
and boiled the whole for a few minutes, when he looked
at them to judge of the color, and so continued until all
were dyed. Red, yellow, green, and black quills were
the result of his labors. A good deal of vegetable acid is
VOL. 11. —6
82 AUDUBON
necessary for this purpose, as minerals, so they say here,
will not answer. I drew at Mr. Culbertson’s portrait till
he was tired enough; his wife —a pure Indian — is much
interested in my work. Bell and Sprague, after some
long talk with Harris about geological matters, of which
valuable science he knows a good deal, went off to seek a
Wolf’s hole that Sprague had seen some days before, but
of which, with his usual reticence, he had not spoken.
Sprague returned with a specimen of rattle-snake root,
which he has already drawn. Bell saw a Wolf munching
a bone, approached it and shot at it. The Wolf had been
wounded before and ran off slowly, and Bell after it.
Mr. Culbertson and I saw the race; Bell gained on the
Wolf until within thirty steps when he fired again; the
Wolf ran some distance further, and then fell; but Bell
was now exhausted by the heat, which was intense, and
left the animal where it lay without attempting to skin
it. Squires and Provost returned this afternoon about
three o'clock, but the first alone had killed a doe. It
was the first one he had ever shot, and he placed seven
buckshot in her body. Owen went off one way, and
Harris and Bell another, but brought in nothing. Prov-
ost went off to the Opposition camp, and when he re-
turned told me that a Porcupine was there, and would be
kept until I saw it; so Harris drove me over, at the usual
breakneck pace, and I bought the animal. Mr. Collins is
yet poorly, their hunters have not returned, and they are
destitute of everything, not having even a medicine chest.
We told him to send a man back with us, which he did,
and we sent him some medicine, rice, and two bottles of
claret. The weather has been much cooler and pleasanter
than yesterday.
Fuly 9, Sunday. J drew at a Wolf’s head, and Sprague
worked at a view of the fort for Mr. Culbertson. . I also
worked on Mr. Culbertson’s portrait about an hour. I
then worked at the Porcupine, which is an animal such as
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 83
I never saw or Bell either. Its measurements are: from
nose to anterior canthus of the eye, 18 in., posterior ditto,
24; conch of ear, 34; distances from eyes posteriorly, 2k;
fore feet stretched beyond nose, 34; length of head around,
4%; nose to root of tail, 18}; length of tail vertebrae, 63;
to end of hair, 7%; hind claws when stretched equal to
end of tail; greatest breadth of palm, 14; of sole, 12;
outward width of tail at base, 3%; depth of ditto, 34;
length of palm, 14; ditto of sole, 14; height at shoulder,
I1; at rump, 10}; longest hair on the back, 8%; breadth
between ears, 2}; from nostril to split of upper lip, 3;
upper incisors, 8; lower ditto, #; tongue quite smooth;
weight 11 lbs. The habits of this animal are somewhat
different from those of the Canadian Porcupine. The one
of this country often goes in crevices or holes, and young
McKenzie caught one in a Wolf’s den, along with the old
Wolf and seven young; they climb trees, however.
Provost tells me that Wolves are oftentimes destroyed
by wild horses, which he has seen run at the Wolves head
down, and when at a proper distance take them by the
middle of the back with their teeth, and throw them sev-
eral feet in the air, after which they stamp upon their
bodies with the fore feet until quite dead. I havea bad
blister on the heel of my right foot, and cannot walk
without considerable pain.
Fuly 10, Monday. Squires, Owen, McKenzie, and Pro-
vost, with a mule, a cart, and Peter the horse, went off at
seven this morning for Antelopes. Bell did not feel well
enough to go with them, and was unable to eat his usual
meal, but I made him some good gruel, and he is better
now. This afternoon Harris went off on horseback after
Rabbits, and he will, I hope, have success. The day has
been fine, and cool compared with others. I took a walk,
and made a drawing of the beautiful sugar-loaf cactus; it
does not open its blossoms until after the middle of the
day, and closes immediately on being placed in the shade.
84 AUDUBON
Suly 11, Tuesday. UHarris returned about ten o'clock last
night, but saw no Hares; how we are to procure any is more
than I can tell. Mr. Culbertson says that it was danger-
ous for Harris to go so far as he did alone up the country,
and he must not try it again. The hunters returned this
afternoon, but brought only one buck, which is, however,
beautiful, and the horns in velvet so remarkable that I can
hardly wait for daylight to begin drawing it. I have taken
all the measurements of this perfect animal; it was shot by
old Provost. Mr. Culbertson— whose portrait is nearly
finished — his wife, and I took a ride to look at some grass
for hay, and found it beautiful and plentiful. We saw two
Wolves, a common oné and a prairie one. Bell is better.
Sprague has drawn another cactus; Provost and I have
now skinned the buck, and it hangs in the ice-house; the
head, however, is untouched.
Fuly 12, Wednesday. 1 rose before three, and began
at once to draw the buck’s head. Bell assisted me to place
it in the position I wanted, and as he felt somewhat better,
while I drew, he finished the skin of the Porcupine; so that
is saved. Sprague continued his painting of the fort. Just
after dinner a Wolf was seen leisurely walking within one
hundred yards of the fort. Bell took the repeating rifle,
went on the ramparts, fired, and missed it. Mr. Culbert-
son sent word to young Owen McKenzie to get a horse and
give it chase. All was ready in a few minutes, and off
went the young fellow after the beast. I left my drawing
long enough to see the pursuit, and was surprised to see
that the Wolf did not start off on a gallop till his pursuer
was within one hundred yards or so of him, and who then
gained rapidly. Suddenly the old sinner turned, and the
horse went past him some little distance. As soon as he
could be turned about McKenzie closed upon him, his gun
flashed twice; but now he was almost @ bon touchant, the
gun went off—the Wolf was dead. I walked out to meet
Owen with the beast; it was very poor, very old, and good
AUDUBON.
From the pencil sketch by Isaac Sprague, 1842. In the possession of the Sprague family,
Wellesley Hills, Mass.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 85
for nothing as aspecimen. Harris, who had shot at one
last night in the late twilight, had killed it, but was not
aware of it till I found the villain this morning. It had
evidently been dragged at by its brothers, who, however,
had not torn it. Provost went over to the other fort to find
out where the Buffaloes are most abundant, and did not
return till late, so did no hunting. A young dog of this
country’s breed ate up all the berries collected by Mrs. Cul-
bertson, and her lord had it killed for our supper this even-
ing- The poor thing was stuck with a knife in the throat,
after which it was placed over a hot fire outside of the fort,
singed, and the hair scraped off, as I myself have treated
Raccoons and Opossums. Then the animal was boiled,
and | intend to taste one mouthful of it, for I cannot say
that just now I should relish an entire meal from such
peculiar fare. There are men, however, who much prefer
the flesh to Buffalo meat, or even venison. An ox was
broken to work this day, and worked far better than I
expected. I finished at last Mr. Culbertson’s portrait, and
itnow hangs inaframe. He and his wife are much pleased
with it, and I am heartily glad they are, for in conscience I
am not; however, it is all I could do, especially with a man
who is never in the same position for one whole minute; so
no more can be expected. The dog was duly cooked and
brought into Mr. Culbertson’s room; he served it out to
Squires, Mr. Denig, and myself, and I was astonished when
I tasted it. With great care and some repugnance I put a
very small piece in my mouth; but no sooner had the taste
touched my palate than I changed my dislike to liking, and
found this victim of the canine order most excellent, and
made a good meal, finding it fully equal to any meat I ever
tasted. Old Provost had told me he preferred it to any
meat, and his subsequent actions proved the truth of his
words. We are having some music this evening, and Har-
ris alone is absent, being at his favorite evening occupa-
tion, namely, shooting at Wolves from the ramparts.
86 AUDUBON
Fuly 18, Thursday. This has been a cloudy and a sultry
day. Sprague finished his drawing and I mine. After
dinner Mr. Culbertson, Squires, and myself went off nine
miles over the prairies to look at the ‘‘ meadows,” as they
are called, where Mr. Culbertson has heretofore cut his
winter crop of hay, but we found it indifferent compared
with that above the fort. We saw Sharp-tailed Grouse, and
what we thought a new species of Lark, which we shot at no
less than ten times before it was killed by Mr. Culbertson, but
not found. I caught one of its young, but it proved to be
only the Shore Lark. Before we reached the meadows we
saw a flock of fifteen or twenty Bob-o-link, Emderiza ort-
atvora, and on our return shot one of them (a male) on
the wing. It is the first seen since we left St. Louis.
We reached the meadows at last, and tied our nag to a
tree, with the privilege of feeding. Mr. Culbertson and
Squires went in the ‘‘ meadows,” and I walked round the
so-called patch. I shot seven Arkansas Flycatchers on
the wing. After an hour’s walking, my companions re-
turned, but had seen nothing except the fresh tracks of a
Grizzly Bear. I shot at one of the White-rumped Hawks,
of which I have several times spoken, but although it
dropped its quarry and flew very wildly afterwards, it went
out of my sight. We found the beds of Elks and their
fresh dung, but saw none of these animals. I have forgot-
ten to say that immediately after breakfast this morning I
drove with Squires to Fort Mortimer, and asked Mr. Col-
lins to let me have his hunter, Boucherville, to go after
Mountain Rams for me, which he promised to do. In the
afternoon he sent a man over to ask for some flour, which
Mr. Culbertson sent him. They are there in the utmost
state of destitution, almost of starvation, awaiting the ar-
rival of the hunters like so many famished Wolves. Harris
and Bell went across the river and shot a Wolf under the
river bank, and afterwards a Duck, but saw nothing else.
But during their absence we have had a fine opportunity of
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 87
witnessing the agility and extreme strength of a year-old
Buffalo bull belonging to the fort. Our cook, who is an
old Spaniard, threw his lasso over the Buffalo's horns, and
all the men in the fort at the time, hauled and pulled the
beast about, trying to get him close to a post. He kicked,
pulled, leaped sideways, and up and down, snorting and
pawing until he broke loose, and ran, as if quite wild, about
the enclosure. He was tied again and again, without any
success, and at last got out of the fort, but was soon re-
taken, the rope being thrown round his horns, and he was
brought to the main post of the Buffalo-robe press. There
he was brought to a standstill, at the risk of breaking his
neck, and the last remnant of his winter coat was removed
by main strength, which was the object for which the poor
animal had undergone all this trouble. After Harris
returned to the fort he saw six Sharp-tailed Grouse. At
this season this species have no particular spot where you
may rely upon finding them, and at times they fly through
the woods, and for a great distance, too, where they alight
on trees; when, unless you accidentally see them, you pass
by without their moving. After we passed Fort Mortimer
on our return we saw coming from the banks of the river
no less than eighteen Wolves, which altogether did not
cover a space of more than three or four yards, they
were so crowded. Among them were two Prairie Wolves.
Had we had a good running horse some could have been
shot; but old Peter is long past his running days. The
Wolves had evidently been feeding on some carcass along
the banks, and all moved very slowly. Mr. Culbertson
gave me a grand pair of leather breeches and a very
handsome knife-case, all manufactured by the Blackfeet
Indians.
Fuly 14, Friday. Thermometer 70°-95°. Young
McKenzie went off after Antelopes across the river alone,
but saw only one, which he could not get near. After
breakfast Harris, Squires, and I started after birds of all
88 AUDUBON
sorts, with the wagon, and proceeded about six miles on
the road we had travelled yesterday. We met the hunter
from Fort Mortimer going for Bighorns for me, and Mr.
Culbertson lent him a horse and a mule. We caught two
young of the Shore Lark, killed seven of Sprague’s Lark,
but by bad management lost two, either from the wagon,
my hat, or Harris’s pockets. The weather was exceed-
ingly hot. We hunted for Grouse in the wormwood
bushes, and after despairing of finding any, we started up
three from the plain, and they flew not many yards to the
river. We got out of the wagon and pushed for them;
one rose, and Harris shot it, though it flew some yards
before he picked it up. He started another, and just as
he was about to fire, his gunlock caught on his coat, and
off went Mr. Grouse, over and through the woods until out
of sight, and we returned slowly home. We saw ten
Wolves this morning. After dinner we had a curious sight.
Squires put on my Indian dress. McKenzie put on one of
Mr. Culbertson’s, Mrs. Culbertson put on her own superb
dress, and the cook’s wife put on the one Mrs. Culbertson
had given me. Squires and Owen were painted in an
awful manner by Mrs. Culbertson, the Zadzes had their
hair loose, and flying in the breeze, and then all mounted
on horses with Indian saddles and trappings. Mrs. Cul-
bertson and her maid rode astride like men, and all rode
a furious race, under whip the whole way, for more than
one mile on the prairie; and how amazed would have been
any European lady, or some of our modern belles who
boast their equestrian skill, at seeing the magnificent riding
of this Indian princess — for that is Mrs. Culbertson’s rank
—and her servant. Mr. Culbertson rode with them, the
horses running as if wild, with these extraordinary Indian
riders, Mrs. Culbertson’s magnificent black hair floating like
a banner behind her. As to the men (for two others had
joined Squires and McKenzie), I cannot compare them to
anything in the whole creation. They ran like wild crea-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 89
tures of unearthly compound. Hither and thither they
dashed, and when the whole party had crossed the ravine
below, they saw a fine Wolf and gave the whip to their
horses, and though the Wolf cut to right and left Owen
shot at him with an arrow and missed, but Mr. Culbertson
gave it chase, overtook it, his gun flashed, and the Wolf
lay dead. They then ascended the hills and away they
went, with our princess and her faithful attendant in the
van, and by and by the group returned to the camp, run-
ning full speed till they entered the fort, and all this in
the intense heat of this July afternoon. Mrs. Culbertson,
herself a wonderful rider, possessed of both strength and
grace in a marked degree, assured me that Squires was
equal to any man in the country as a rider, and I saw for
myself that he managed his horse as well as any of the
party, and I was pleased to see him in his dress, orna-
ments, etc., looking, however, I must confess, after Mrs.
Culbertson’s painting his face, like a being from the
infernal regions. Mr. Culbertson presented Harris with a
superb dress of the Blackfoot Indians, and also with a
Buffalo bull’s head, for which Harris had in turn presented
him with a gun-barrel of the short kind, and well fitted to
shoot Buffaloes. Harris shot a very young one of Town-
send’s Hare, Mr. Denig gave Bella Mouse, which, although
it resembles A/us leucopus greatly, is much larger, and has
a short, thick, round tail, somewhat blunted.
Fuly 15, Saturday. We were all up pretty early, for
we propose going up the Yellowstone with a wagon,
and the skiff on a cart, should we wish to cross. After
breakfast all of us except Sprague, who did not wish to go,
were ready, and along with two extra men, the wagon, and
the cart, we crossed the Missouri at the fort, and at nine
were fairly under way — Harris, Bell, Mr. Culbertson, and
myself in the wagon, Squires, Provost, and Owen on horse-
back. We travelled rather slowly, until we had crossed
the point, and headed the ponds on the prairie that run at
90 AUDUBON
the foot of the hills opposite. We saw one Grouse, but it
could not be started, though Harris searched for it. We
ran the wagon into a rut, but got out unhurt; however, I
decided to walk for a while, and did so for about two
miles, to the turning point of the hills. The wheels of our
vehicle were very shackling, and had to be somewhat
repaired, and though I expected they would fall to pieces, in
some manner or other we proceeded on. We saw several
Antelopes, some on the prairie which we now travelled on,
and many more on the tops of the hills, bounding west-
ward. We stopped to water the horses at a saline spring,
where I saw that Buffaloes, Antelopes, and other animals
come to allay their thirst, and repose on the grassy margin.
The water was too hot for us to drink, and we awaited the
arrival of the cart, when we all took a good drink of the
river water we had brought with us. After waiting for
nearly an hour to allow the horses to bait and cool them-
selves, for it was very warm, we proceeded on, until we
came to another watering-place, a river, in fact, which
during spring overflows its banks, but now has only pools
of water here and there. We soaked our wheels again,
and again drank ourselves, Squires, Provost, and Owen
had left sometime before us, but were not out of our sight,
when we started, and as we had been, and were yet, travel-
ling a good track, we soon caught up with them. We shot
a common Red-winged Starling, and heard the notes
of what was supposed to be a new bird by my com-
panions, but which to my ears was nothing more than the
Short-billed Marsh Wren of Nuttall. We reached our
camping-place, say perhaps twenty miles’ distance, by four
o'clock, and all things were unloaded, the horses put to
grass, and two or three of the party went in “the point”
above, to shoot something for supper. I was hungry my-
self, and taking the Red-wing and the fishing-line, I went to
the river close by, and had the good fortune to catch four fine
catfish, when, my bait giving out, I was obliged to desist,
|
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS OI
as I found that these catfish will not take parts of their
own kind as food. Provost had taken a bath, and rowed
the skiff (which we had brought this whole distance on the
cart, dragged by a mule) along with two men, across the
river to seek for game on the point opposite our encamp-
ment. They returned, however, without having shot any-
thing, and my four catfish were all the fresh provisions that
we had, and ten of us partook of them with biscuit, coffee,
and claret. Dusk coming on, the tent was pitched, and
preparations to rest made. Some chose one spot and
some another, and after a while we were settled. Mr.
Culbertson and I lay together on the outside of the tent,
and all the party were more or less drowsy. About this
time we saw a large black cloud rising in the west; it
was heavy and lowering, and about ten o’clock, when
most of us were pretty nearly sound asleep, the distant
thunder was heard, the wind rose to a gale, and the rain
began falling in torrents. All were on foot in a few
moments, and considerable confusion ensued. Our guns,
all loaded with balls, were hurriedly placed under the tent,
our beds also, and we all crawled in, in the space of a very
few minutes. The wind blew so hard that Harris was
obliged to hold the flappers of the tent with both hands,
and sat in the water a considerable time to do this. Old
Provost alone did not come in, he sat under the shelving
bank of the river, and kept dry. After the gale was over,
he calmly lay down in front of the tent on the saturated
ground, and was soon asleep. During the gale, our fire,
which we had built to keep off the myriads of mosquitoes,
blew in every direction, and we had to watch the embers
to keep them from burning the tent. After all was over,
we snugged ourselves the best way we could in our small
tent and under the wagon, and slept soundly till daylight.
Mr. Culbertson had fixed himself pretty well, but on aris-
ing at daylight to smoke his pipe, Squires immediately
crept into his comfortable corner, and snored there till the
92 AUDUBON
day was well begun. Mr. Culbertson had my knees for a
pillow, and also my hat, I believe, for in the morning,
although the first were not hurt, the latter was sadly out of
shape in all parts. We had nothing for our breakfast
except some vile coffee, and about three quarters of a sea-
biscuit, which was soon settled among us. The men, poor
fellows, had nothing at all. Provost had seen two Deer,
but had had no shot, so of course we were in a quandary,
but it is now—
Fuly 16, Sunday. The weather pleasant with a fine
breeze from the westward, and all eyes were bent upon
the hills and prairie, which is here of great breadth, to spy
if possible some object that might be killed and eaten.
Presently a Wolf was seen, and Owen went after it, and it
was not until he had disappeared below the first low range
of hills, and Owen also, that the latter came within shot of
the rascal, which dodged in all sorts of manners; but Owen
would not give up, and after shooting more than once, he
killed the beast. A man had followed him to help bring
in the Wolf, and when near the river he saw a Buffalo,
about two miles off, grazing peaceably, as he perhaps
thought, safe in his own dominions; but, alas! white
hunters had fixed their eyes upon him, and from that
moment his doom was pronounced. Mr. Culbertson
threw down his hat, bound his head with a handkerchief,
his saddle was on his mare, he was mounted and off and
away at a swift gallop, more quickly than I can describe,
not towards the Buffalo, but towards the place where
Owen had killed the Wolf. The man brought the Wolf
on old Peter, and Owen, who was returning to the camp,
heard the signal gun fired by Mr. Culbertson, and at once
altered his course; his mare was evidently a little heated
and blown by the Wolf chase, but both hunters went after
the Buffalo, slowly at first, to rest Owen’s steed, but soon,
when getting within running distance, they gave whip,
overhauled the Bison, and shot at it twice with balls; this
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 93
halted the animal; the hunters had no more balls, and
now loaded with pebbles, with which the poor beast was
finally killed. The wagon had been sent from the camp.
Harris, Bell, and Squires mounted on horseback, and trav-
elled to the scene of action. They met Mr. Culbertson
returning to camp, and he told Bell the Buffalo was a
superb one, and had better be skinned. A man was sent
to assist in the skinning who had been preparing the Wolf
which was now cooking, as we had expected to dine upon
its flesh; but when Mr. Culbertson returned, covered with
blood and looking like a wild Indian, it was decided to
throw it away; so I cut out the liver, and old Provost and
I went fishing and caught eighteen catfish. I hooked
two tortoises, but put them back in the river. I took a
good swim, which refreshed me much, and I came to
dinner with a fine appetite. This meal consisted wholly
of fish, and we were all fairly satisfied. Before long the
flesh of the Buffalo reached the camp, as well as the hide.
The animal was very fat, and we have meat for some days.
It was now decided that Squires, Provost, and Basil (one
of the men) should proceed down the river to the Charbon-
neau, and there try their luck at Otters and Beavers, and
the rest of us, with the cart, would make our way back to
the fort. All was arranged, and at half-past three this
afternoon we were travelling towards Fort Union. But
hours previous to this, and before our scanty dinner, Owen
had seen another bull, and Harris and Bell joined us in
the hunt. The bull was shot at by McKenzie, who stopped
its career, but as friend Harris pursued it with two of the
hunters and finished it I was about to return, and thought
sport over for the day. However, at this stage of the pro-
ceedings Owen discovered another bull making his way
slowly over the prairie towards us. I was the only one
who had balls, and would gladly have claimed the privilege
of running him, but fearing I might make out badly on my
slower steed, and so lose meat which we really needed, I
94 AUDUBON
handed my gun and balls to Owen McKenzie, and Bell
and I went to an eminence to view the chase. Owen ap-
proached the bull, which continued to advance, and was
now less than a quarter of a mile distant; either it did not
see, or did not heed him, and they came directly towards
each other, until they were about seventy or eighty yards
apart, when the Buffalo started at a good run, and Owen’s
mare, which had already had two hard runs this morning,
had great difficulty in preserving her distance. Owen,
perceiving this, breathed her a minute, and then applying
the whip was soon within shooting distance, and fired a
shot which visibly checked the progress of the bull, and
enabled Owen to soon be alongside of him, when the con-
tents of the second barrel were discharged into the lungs,
passing through the shoulder blade. This brought him
to a stand. Bell and I now started at full speed, and as
soon as we were within speaking distance, called to Owen
not to shoot again. The bull did not appear to be much
exhausted, but he was so stiffened by the shot on the
shoulder that he could not turn quickly, and taking ad-
vantage of this we approached him; as we came near he
worked himself slowly round to face us, and then made a
lunge at us; we then stopped on one side and commenced
discharging our pistols with little or no effect, except to
increase his fury with every shot. His appearance was
now one to inspire terror had we not felt satisfied of our
ability to avoid him. However, even so, I came very near
being overtaken by him. Through my own imprudence,
I placed myself directly in front of him, and as he ad-
vanced I fired at his head, and then ran ahead of him, in-
stead of veering to one side, not supposing that he was
able to overtake me; but turning my head over my shoul-
der, I saw to my horror, Mr, Bull within three feet of me,
prepared to give me a taste of his horns. The next in-
stant I turned sharply off, and the Buffalo being unable to
turn quickly enough to follow me, Bell took the gun from
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 95
Owen and shot him directly behind the shoulder blade.
He tottered for a moment, with an increased jet of blood
from the mouth and nostrils, fell forward on his horns,
then rolled over on his side, and was dead. He was a
very old animal, in poor case, and only part of him was
worth taking to the fort. Provost, Squires, and Basil
were left at the camp preparing for their departure after
Otter and Beaver as decided. We left them eight or nine
catfish and a quantity of meat, of which they took care to
secure the best, namely the boss or hump. On our home-
ward way we saw several Antelopes, some quite in the
prairie, others far away on the hills, but all of them on
the alert. Owen tried unsuccessfully to approach several
of them at different times. At one place where two were
seen he dismounted, and went round a small hill (for these
animals when startled or suddenly alarmed always make
to these places), and we hoped would have had a shot; but
alas! no! One of the Antelopes ran off to the top of an-
other hill, and the other stood looking at him, and us per-
haps, till Owen (who had been re-mounted) galloped off
towards us. My surprise was great when I saw the other
Antelope following him at a good pace (but not by bounds
or leaps, as I had been told by a former traveller they
sometimes did), until it either smelt him, or found out he
was no friend, and turning round galloped speedily off to
join the one on the lookout. We saw seven or eight
Grouse, and Bell killed one on the ground. We saw a
Sand-hill Crane about two years old, looking quite majes-
tic in a grassy bottom, but it flew away before we were
near enough to get a shot. We passed a fine pond or
small lake, but no bird was there. We saw several par-
cels of Ducks in sundry places, all of which no doubt had
young near. When we turned the corner of the great
prairie we found Owen’s mare close by us. She had run
away while he was after Antelopes. We tied her to a log
to be ready for him when he should reach the spot. He
06 AUDUBON
had to walk about three miles before he did this. How-
ever, to one as young and alert as Owen, such things are
nothing. Once they were not to me. We saw more An-
telope at a distance, here called ‘‘Cabris,” and after a
while we reached the wood near the river, and finding
abundance of service-berries, we all got out to break
branches of these plants, Mr. Culbertson alone remaining
in the wagon; he pushed on for the landing. We walked
after him munching our berries, which we found very good,
and reached the landing as the sun was going down behind
the hills. Young McKenzie was already there, having cut
across the point. We decided on crossing the river our-
selves, and leaving all behind us except our guns. We took
to the ferry-boat, cordelled it up the river for a while, then
took to the nearest sand-bar, and leaping into the mud
and water, hauled the heavy boat, Bell and Harris steer-
ing and poling the while. I had pulled off my shoes and
socks, and when we reached the shore walked up to the
fort barefooted, and made my feet quite sore again; but
we have had a rest and a good supper, and I am writing
in Mr. Culbertson’s room, thinking over all God’s blessings
on this delightful day.
Fuly 17, Monday. A beautiful day, with a west wind.
Sprague, who is very industrious at all times, drew some
flowers, and I have been busy both writing and drawing.
In the afternoon Bell went after Rabbits, but saw one
only, which he could not get, and Sprague walked to the
hills about two miles off, but could not see any portion
of the Yellowstone River, which Mr. Catlin has given in
his view, as if he had been ina balloon some thousands
of feet above the earth. Two men arrived last evening
by land from Fort Pierre, and brought a letter, but no
news of any importance; one is a cook as well as a hunter,
the other named Wolff, a German, and a tinsmith by
trade, though now a trapper.
Fuly 18, Tuesday. When I went to bed last night the
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 97
mosquitoes were so numerous downstairs that I took my
bed under my arm and went to a room above, where I
slept well. On going down this morning, I found two
other persons from Fort Pierre, and Mr. Culbertson very
busy reading and writing letters. Immediately after
breakfast young McKenzie and another man were de-
‘spatched on mules, with a letter for Mr. Kipp, and Owen
expects to overtake the boat in three or four days. An
Indian arrived with a stolen squaw, both Assiniboins;
and I am told such things are of frequent occurrence
among these sons of nature. Mr. Culbertson proposed
that we should take a ride to see the mowers, and Harris
and I joined him. We found the men at work, among
them one called Bernard Adams, of Charleston, S. C.,
who knew the Bachmans quite well, and who had read
the whole of the “Biographies of Birds.” Leaving the
men, we entered a ravine in search of plants, etc., and
having started an Owl, which I took for the barred one, I
left my horse and went in search of it, but could not
see it, and hearing a new note soon saw a bird not to be
mistaken, and killed it, when it proved, as I expected, to
be the Rock Wren; then I shot another sitting by the
mouth of a hole. The bird did not fly off; Mr. Culbert-
son watched it closely, but when the hole was demolished
no bird was to be found. Harris saw a Shrike, but of
what species he could not tell, and he also found some
Rock Wrens in another ravine. We returned to the fort
and promised to visit the place this afternoon, which we
have done, and procured three more Wrens, and killed the
Owl, which proves to be precisely the resemblance of the
Northern specimen of the Great Horned Owl, which we
published under another name. The Rock Wren, which
might as well be called the Ground Wren, builds its nest
in holes, and now the young are well able to fly, and we
procured one in the act. In two instances we saw these
birds enter a hole here, and an investigation showed a
VOL. 11.—7
98 AUDUBON
passage or communication, and on my pointing out a hole
to Bell where one had entered, he pushed his arm in and
touched the little fellow, but it escaped by running up
his arm and away it flew. Black clouds now arose in the
west, and we moved homewards. MHarris and Bell went
to the mowers to get a drink of water, and we reached
home without getting wet, though it rained violently for
some time, and the weather is much cooler. Not a word
yet from Provost and Squires.
Fuly 19, Wednesday. Squires and Provost returned
early this morning, and again I give the former my jour-
nal that I may have the account of the hunt in his own
words. “As Mr. Audubon has said, he left Provost,
Basil, and myself making ready for our voyage down the
Yellowstone. The party for the fort were far in the
blue distance ere we bid adieu to our camping-ground.
We had wished the return party a pleasant ride and safe
arrival at the fort as they left us, looking forward to a
good supper, and what I zow call a comfortable bed. We
seated ourselves around some boiled Buffalo hump, which,
as has been before said, we took good care to appropriate
to ourselves according to the established rule of this
country, which is, ‘ When you can, take the best,’ and we
had done so in this case, more to our satisfaction than to
that of the hunters. Our meal finished, we packed every-
thing we had in the skiff, and were soon on our way
down the Yellowstone, happy as could be; Provost act-
ing pilot, Basil oarsman, and your humble servant seated
on a Buffalo robe, quietly smoking, and looking on the
things around. We found the general appearance of the
Yellowstone much like the Missouri, but with a stronger
current, and the water more muddy. After a voyage of
two hours Charbonneau River made its appearance, issu-
ing from a clump of willows; the mouth of this river we
found to be about ten feet wide, and so shallow that we
were obliged to push our boat over the slippery mud for
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 99
about forty feet. This passed, we entered a pond formed
by the contraction of the mouth and the collection of mud
and sticks thereabouts, the pond so formed being six or
eight feet deep, and about fifty feet wide, extending about
a mile up the river, which is very crooked indeed. For
about half a mile from the Yellowstone the shore is
lined with willows, beyond which is a level prairie, and
on the shores of the stream just beyond the willows are
a few scattered trees. About a quarter of a mile from the
mouth of the river, we discovered what we were in search
of, the Beaver lodge. To measure it was impossible, as
it was not perfect, in the first place, in the next it was so
muddy that we could not get ashore, but as well as I can
I will describe it. The lodge is what is called the sum-
mer lodge; it was comprised wholly of brush, willow
chiefly, with a single hole for the entrance and exit of the
Beaver. The pile resembled, as much as anything to
which I can compare it, a brush heap about six feet high,
and about ten or fifteen feet base, and standing seven or
eight feet from the water. There were a few Beaver
tracks about, which gave us some encouragement. We
proceeded to our camping-ground on the edge of the
prairie; here we landed all our baggage; while Basil
made a fire, Provost and J started to set our traps —the
two extremes of hunters, the skilful old one, and the
ignorant pupil; but I was soon initiated in the art of
setting Beaver traps, and to the uninitiated let me say,
‘ First, find your game, ¢hen catch it,’ if you can. The
first we did, the latter we tried to do. We proceeded to
the place where the greatest number of tracks were seen,
and commenced operations. At the place where the path
enters the water, and about four inches beneath the sur-
face, a: level place is made in the mud, upon which the
trap is placed, the chain is then fastened to a stake which
is firmly driven in the ground under water. The end of
a willow twig is then chewed and dipped in the ‘ Medi-
100 AUDUBON
cine Horn,’ which contains the bait; this consists of
castoreum mixed with spices; a quantity is collected on
the chewed end of the twig, the stick is then placed or
stuck in the mud on the edge of the water, leaving the
part with the bait about two inches above the surface and
in front of the trap; on each side the bait and about six
inches from it, two dried twigs are placed in the ground;
this done, all’s done, and we are ready for the visit of
Monsieur Castor. We set two traps, and returned to our
camp, where we had supper, then pitched our tent and
soon were sound asleep, but before we were asleep we
heard a Beaver dive, and slap his tail, which sounded like
the falling of a round stone in the water; here was en-
couragement again. In the morning (Monday) we exam-
ined our traps and found — nothing. We did not therefore
disturb the traps, but examined farther up the river, where
we discovered other tracks and resolved to set our traps
there, as Provost concluded that there was but one Beaver,
and that a male. We returned to camp and made a good
breakfast on Buffalo meat and coffee, sazs salt, sans pep-
per, sazs sugar, sans anything else of any kind. After
breakfast Provost shot a doe. In the afternoon we re-
moved one trap, Basil and I gathered some wild-goose-
berries which I stewed for supper, and made a sauce, —
which, though rather acid, was very good with our meat.
The next morning, after again examining our traps and
finding nothing, we decided to raise camp, which was
accordingly done; everything was packed in the skiff, and
we proceeded to the mouth of the river. The water had
fallen so much since we had entered, as to oblige us to
strip, jump in the mud, and haul the skiff over; rich and
rare was the job; the mud was about half thigh deep, and
a kind of greasy, sticky, black stuff, with a something
about it so very peculiar as to be rather unpleasant; how-
ever, we did not mind much, and at last got into the Yel-
lowstone, scraped and washed the mud off, and encamped
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 10I
on a prairie about one hundred yards below the Charbon-
neau. It was near sunset; Provost commenced fishing;
we joined him, and in half an hour we caught sixteen cat-
fish, quite large ones. During the day Provost started to
the Mauvaises Terres to hunt Bighorns, but returned un-
successful. He baited his traps for the last time. Dur-
ing his absence thunder clouds were observed rising all
around us; we stretched our tent, removed everything in-
side it, ate our supper of meat and coffee, and then went
to bed. It rained some part of the night, but not enough
to wet through the tent. The next morning (Tuesday) at
daylight, Provost started to examine his traps, while we
at the camp put everything in the boat, and sat down to
await his return, when we proceeded on our voyage down
the Yellowstone to Fort Mortimer, and from thence by
land to Fort Union. Nothing of any interest occurred
except that we saw two does, one young and one buck of
the Bighorns; I fired at the buck which was on a high
cliff about a hundred and fifty yards from us; I fired
above it to allow for the falling of the ball, but the gun
shot so well as to carry where I aimed. The animal was
avery large buck; Provost says one of the largest he had
seen. As soon as I fired he started and ran along the
side of the hill which looked almost perpendicular, and I
fvas much astonished, not only at the feat, but at the sur-
prising quickness with which he moved along, with no
apparent foothold. We reached Fort Mortimer about
seven o’clock; I left Basil and Provost with the skiff, and
I started for Fort Union on foot to send a cart for them.
On my way I met Mr. Audubon about to pay a visit to
Fort Mortimer; I found all well, despatched the cart,
changed my clothes, and feel none the worse for my five
days’ camping, and quite ready for a dance I hear we are
to have to-night.”
This morning as I walked to Fort Mortimer, meeting
Squires as he has said, well and happy as a Lark, I was
102 AUDUBON
surprised to see a good number of horses saddled, and
packed in different ways, and I hastened on to find what
might be the matter. When I entered the miserable
house in which Mr. Collins sleeps and spends his time
when not occupied out of doors, he told me thirteen men
and seven squaws were about to start for the lakes, thirty-
five miles off, to kill Buffaloes and dry their meat, as the
last his hunters brought in was already putrid. I saw
the cavalcade depart in an E. N. E. direction, remained a
while, and then walked back. Mr. Collins promised me
half a dozen balls from young animals. Provost was dis-
comfited and crestfallen at the failure of the Beaver hunt;
he brought half a doe and about a dozen fine catfish.
Mr. Culbertson and I are going to see the mowers, and
to-morrow we start on a grand Buffalo hunt, and hope for
Antelopes, Wolves, and Foxes.
Fuly 20, Thursday. We were up early, and had our
breakfast shortly after four o’clock, and before eight had
left the landing of the fort, and were fairly under way for
the prairies. Our equipment was much the same as be-
fore, except that we had two carts this time. Mr. C.
drove Harris, Bell, and myself, and the others rode on the
carts and led the hunting horses, or runners, as they are
called here. I observed a Rabbit running across the road,
and saw some flowers different from any I had ever seen.”
After we had crossed a bottom prairie, we ascended be-
tween the high and rough ravines until we were on the
rolling grounds of the plains. The fort showed well from
this point, and we also saw a good number of Antelores,
and some young ones. These small things run even faster
than the old ones. As we neared the Fox River some one
espied four Buffaloes, and Mr. C., taking the telescope,
showed them to me, lying on the ground. Our heads and
carts were soon turned towards them, and we travelled
within half a mile of them, concealed by a ridge or hill
which separated them from us. The wind was favorable,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 103
and we moved on slowly round the hill, the hunters being
now mounted. MHarris and Bell had their hats on, but
Owen and Mr. Culbertson had their heads bound with
handkerchiefs. With the rest of the party I crawled on
the ridge, and saw the bulls running away, but in a direc-
-tion favorable for us to see the chase. On the word of
command the horses were let loose, and away went the
hunters, who soon were seen to gain on the game; two
bulls ran together and Mr. C. and Bell followed after
them, and presently one after another of the hunters fol-
lowed them. Mr. C. shot first, and his bull stopped at
the fire, walked towards where I was, and halted about
sixty yards from me. His nose was within a few inches
of the ground; the blood poured from his mouth, nose, and
side, his tail hung down, but his legs looked as firm as
ever, but in less than two minutes the poor beast fell on
his side, and lay quite dead.’ Bell and Mr. Culbertson
went after the second. Harris took the third, and Squires
the fourth. Bell’s shot took effect in the buttock, and
Mr. Culbertson shot, placing his ball a few inches above
or below Bell’s; after this Mr. Culbertson ran no more.
At this moment Squires’s horse threw him over his
head, fully ten feet; he fell on his powder-horn and
was severely bruised; he cried to Harris to catch his
horse, and was on his legs at once, but felt sick for a few
minutes. Harris, who was as cool as a cucumber, neared
his bull, shot it through the lungs, and it fell dead on the
spot. Bell was now seen in full pursuit of his game, and
Harris joined Squires, and followed the fourth, which,
however, was soon out of my sight. I saw Bell shooting
two or three times, and I heard the firing of Squires and
perhaps Harris, but the weather was hot, and being afraid
of injuring their horses, they let the fourth bull make his
escape. Bell’s bull fell on his knees, got up again, and
rushed on Bell, and was shot again. The animal stood a
minute with his tail partially elevated, and then fell dead;
104 AUDUBON
through some mishap Bell had no knife with him, so did
not bring the tongue, as is customary. Mr. Culbertson
walked towards the first bull and I joined him. It wasa
fine animal about seven years old; Harris’s and Bell’s
were younger. The first was fat, and was soon skinned
and cut up for meat. Mr. Culbertson insisted on calling
it my bull, so I cut off the brush of the tail and placed it
in my hat-band. We then walked towards Harris, who
was seated on his bull, and the same ceremony took place,
and while they were cutting the animal up for meat, Bell,
who said he thought his bull was about three quarters of
a mile distant, went off with me to see it; we walked at
least a mile and a half, and at last came to it. It wasa
poor one, and the tongue and tail were all we took away,
and we rejoined the party, who had already started the
cart with Mr. Pike, who was told to fall to the rear, and
reach the fort before sundown; this he could do readily,
as we were not more than six miles distant. Mr. Culbert-
son broke open the head of “my” bull, and ate part of
the brains raw, and yet warm, and so did many of the
others, even Squires. The very sight of this turned my
stomach, but I am told that were I to hunt Buffalo one
year, I should like it “even better than dog meat.” Mr.
Pike did not reach the fort till the next morning about
ten, I will say ex passant. We continued our route, pass-
ing over the same road on which we had come, and about
midway between the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers.
We saw more Antelopes, but not one Wolf; these rascals
are never abundant where game is scarce, but where game
is, there too are the Wolves. When we had travelled
about ten miles further we saw seven Buffaloes grazing
on a hill, but as the sun was about one hour high, we
drove to one side of the road where there was a pond of
water, and there stopped for the night; while the hunters
were soon mounted, and with Squires they went off, leav-
ing the men to arrange the camp. I crossed the pond,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 105
and having ascended the opposite bank, saw the bulis
grazing as leisurely as usual. The hunters near them,
they started down the hill, and the chase immediately be-
gan. One broke from the rest and was followed by Mr.
C. who shot it, and then abandoned the hunt, his horse
being much fatigued. I now counted ten shots, but all
was out of my sight, and I seated myself near a Fox hole,
longing for him. The hunters returned in time; Bell
and Harris had killed one, but Squires had no luck,
owing to his being unable to continue the chase on ac-
count of the injury he had received from his fall. We
had a good supper, having brought abundance of eatables
and drinkables. The tent was pitched; I put up my mos-
quito-bar under the wagon, and there slept very soundly
till sunrise. Harris and Bell wedged together under an-
other bar, Mr. C. went into the tent, and Squires, who is
tough and likes to rough it with the hunters, slept on a
Buffalo hide somewhere with Moncrévier, one of the most
skilful of the hunters. The horses were all hoppled and
turned to grass; they, however, went off too far, and had
to be sent after, but I heard nothing of all this. As
there is no wood on the prairies proper, our fire was made
of Buffalo dung, which is so abundant that one meets
these deposits at every few feet and in all directions.
Fuly 21, Friday. We were up at sunrise, and had our
coffee, after which Lafleur a mulatto, Harris, and Bell
went off after Antelopes, for we cared no more about
bulls; where the cows are, we cannot tell. Cows run
faster than bulls, yearlings faster than cows, and calves
faster than any of these. Squires felt sore, and his side
was very black, so we took our guns and went after Black.
breasted Lark Buntings, of which we saw many, but could
not near them. I found a nest of them, however, with
- five eggs. The nest is planted in the ground, deep enough
to sink the edges of it. It is formed of dried fine grasses
and roots, without any lining of hair or wool. By and by
106 AUDUBON
we saw Harris sitting on a high hil] about one mile off,
and joined him; he said the bulls they had killed last
evening were close by, and I offered to go and see the
bones, for I expected that the Wolves had devoured it
during the night. We travelled on, and Squires returned
to the camp. After about two miles of walking against a
delightful strong breeze, we reached the animals; Ravens
or Buzzards had worked at the eyes, but only one Wolf,
apparently, had been there. They were bloated, and
smelt quite unpleasant. We returned to the camp and
saw a Wolf cross our path, and an Antelope looking at
us. We determined to stop and try to bring him to us; I
lay on my back and threw my legs up, kicking first one
and then the other foot, and sure enough the Antelope
walked towards us, slowly and carefully, however. In
about twenty minutes he had come two or three hundred
yards; he was a superb male, and I looked at him for
some minutes; when about sixty yards off I could see his
eyes, and being loaded with buck-shot pulled the trigger
without rising from my awkward position. Off he went;
Harris fired, but he only ran the faster for some hundred
yards, when he turned, looked at us again, and was off.
When we reached camp we found Bell there; he had shot
three times at Antelopes without killing; Lafleur had
also returned, and had broken the foreleg of one, but an
Antelope can run fast enough with three legs, and he saw
no more of it. We now broke camp, arranged the horses
and turned our heads towards the Missouri, and in four
and three-quarter hours reached the landing. On enter-
ing the wood we again broke branches of service-berries,
and carried a great quantity over the river. I much en-
joyed the trip; we had our supper, and soon to bed in our
hot room, where Sprague says the thermometer has been
at 99° most of the day. I noticed it was warm when walk-
ing. I must not forget to notice some things which hap-
pened on our return. First, as we came near Fox River,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 107
we thought of the horns of our bulls, and Mr. Culbert-
son, who knows the country like a book, drove us first to
Bell’s, who knocked the horns off, then to Harris’s, which
was served in the same manner; this bull had been eaten
entirely except the head, and a good portion of mine had
been devoured also; it lay immediately under “ Audu-
bon’s Bluff” (the name Mr. Culbertson gave the ridge on
which I stood to see the chase), and we could see it when
nearly a mile distant. Bell’s horns were the handsomest
and largest, mine next best, and Harris’s the smallest,
but we are all contented. Mr. Culbertson tells me that
Harris and Bell have done wonders, for persons who have
never shot at Buffaloes from on horseback. Harris had a
fall too, during his second chase, and was bruised in the
manner of Squires, but not so badly. I have but little
doubt that Squires killed his bull, as he says he shot it
three times, and Mr. Culbertson’s must have died also.
What a terrible destruction of life, as it were for noth-
ing, or next to it, as the tongues only were brought in,
and the flesh of these fine animals was left to beasts and
birds of prey, or to rot on the spots where they fell. The
prairies are literally covered with the skulls of the vic-
tims, and the roads the Buffalo make in crossing the
prairies have all the appearance of heavy wagon tracks.
We saw young Golden Eagles, Ravens, and Buzzards. I
found the Short-billed Marsh Wren quite abundant, and
in such localities as it is found eastward. The Black-
breasted Prairie-bunting flies much like a Lark, hover-
ing while singing, and sweeping round and round, over
and above its female while she sits on the eggs on the
prairie below. I saw only one Gadwall Duck; these
birds are found in abundance on the plains where
water and rushes are to be found. Alas! alas! eighteen
Assiniboins have reached the fort this evening in two
groups; they are better-looking than those previously
seen by us.
108 AUDUBON
Fuly 22, Saturday. Thermometer 99°-102°. This day
has been the hottest of the season, and we all felt the in-
fluence of this densely oppressive atmosphere, not a breath
of air stirring. Immediately after breakfast Provost and
Lafleur went across the river in search of Antelopes, and
we remained looking at the Indians, all Assiniboins, and
very dirty. When and where Mr. Catlin saw these In-
dians as he has represented them, dressed in magnificent
attire, with all sorts of extravagant accoutrements, is more
than I can divine, or Mr. Culbertson tell me. The even-
ing was so hot and sultry that Mr. C. and I went into
the river, which is now very low, and remained in the
water over an hour. A dozen catfish were caught in the
main channel, and we have had a good supper from part
of them. Finding the weather so warm I have had my
bed brought out on the gallery below, and so has Squires.
The Indians are, as usual, shut ow¢ of the fort, all the
horses, young Buffaloes, etc., shut zz , and much refreshed
by my bath, I say God bless you, and good-night.
Fuly 23, Sunday. Thermometer 84°. I had a very
pleasant night, and no mosquitoes, as the breeze rose a
little before I lay down; and I anticipated a heavy thun-
der storm, but we had only a few drops of rain. About
one o’clock Harris was called to see one of the Indians,
who was bleeding at the nose profusely, and I too went
to see the poor devil. He had bled quite enough, and
Harris stopped his nostrils with cotton, put cold water on
his neck and head—God knows when they had felt it
before —and the bleeding stopped. These dirty fellows
had made a large fire between the walls of the fort, but
outside the inner gates, and it was a wonder that the
whole establishment was not destroyed by fire. Before
sunrise they were pounding at the gate to be allowed to
enter, but, of course, this was not permitted. When the
sun had fairly risen, some one came and told me the hill-
tops were covered with Indians, probably Blackfeet. I
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 109
walked to the back gate, and the number had dwindled,
or the account been greatly exaggerated, for there seemed
only fifty or sixty, and when, later, they were counted,
there were found to be exactly seventy. They remained
a long time on the hill, and sent a youth to ask for
whiskey. But whiskey there is none for them, and very
little for any one. By and by they came down the hill
leading four horses, and armed principally with bows and
arrows, spears, tomahawks, and a few guns. They have
proved to be a party of Crees from the British dominions
on the Saskatchewan River, and have been fifteen days in
travelling here. They had seen few Buffaloes, and were
hungry and thirsty enough. They assured Mr. Culbertson
that the Hudson’s Bay Company supplied them all with
abundance of spirituous liquors, and as the white traders
on the Missouri had none for them, they would hereafter
travel with the English. Now ought not this subject to
be brought before the press in our country and forwarded
to England? If our Congress will not allow our traders
to sell whiskey or rum to the Indians, why should not the
British follow the same rule? Surely the British, who
are so anxious about the emancipation of the blacks,
might as well take care of the souls and bodies of the
redskins. After a long talk and smoking of pipes, to-
bacco, flints, powder, gun-screws and vermilion were
placed before their great chief (who is tattooed and has
a most rascally look), who examined everything minutely,
counting over the packets of vermilion; more tobacco
was added, a file, and a piece of white cotton with which
to adorn his head; then he walked off, followed by his
son, and the whole posse left the fort. They passed by
the garden, pulled up a few squash vines and some tur-
nips, and tore down a few of the pickets on their way
elsewhere. We all turned to, and picked a quantity of
peas, which with a fine roast pig, made us a capital
dinner. After this, seeing the Assiniboins loitering
IIo AUDUBON
about the fort, we had some tobacco put up as a target,
and many arrows were sent to enter the prize, but I never
saw Indians — usually so skilful with their bows — shoot
worse in my life. Presently some one cried there were
Buffaloes on the hill, and going to see we found that four
bulls were on the highest ridge standing still. The
horses being got in the yard, the guns were gathered,
saddles placed, and the riders mounted, Mr. C., Harris,
and Bell; Squires declined going, not having recovered
from his fall, Mr. C. led his followers round the hills by
the ravines, and approached the bulls quite near, when
the affrighted cattle ran down the hills and over the
broken grounds, out of our sight, followed by the hunters.
When I see game chased by Mr. Culbertson, I feel con-
fident of its being killed, and in less than one hour he
had killed two bulls, Harris and Bell each one. Thus
these poor animals which two hours before were tranquilly
feeding are now dead; short work this. Harris and Bell
remained on the hills to watch the Wolves, and carts
being ordered, Mr. C. and I went off on horseback to the
second one he had killed. We found it entire, and I
began to operate upon it at once; after making what
measurements and investigations I desired, I saved the
head, the tail, and a large piece of the silky skin from
the rump. The meat of three of the bulls was brought
to the fort, the fourth was left to rot on the ground. Mr.
C. cut his finger severely, but paid no attention to that;
I, however, tore a strip off my shirt and bound it up for
him. It is so hot I am going to sleep on the gallery
again; the thermometer this evening is 89°.
Fuly 24, Monday. 1 had a fine sleep last night, and
this morning early a slight sprinkling of rain somewhat
refreshed the earth. After breakfast we talked of going
to see if Mr. Culbertson’s bull had been injured by the
Wolves. Mr. C., Harris, and I went off to the spot by a
roundabout way, and when we reached the animal it was
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS III
somewhat swollen, but untouched, but we made up our
minds to have it weighed, coute gui coute. Harris pro-
posed to remain and watch it, looking for Hares mean-
time, but saw none. The Wolves must be migratory at
this season, or so starved out that they have gone else-
where, as we now see but few. We returned first to the
fort, and mustered three men and Bell, for Sprague would
not go, being busy drawing a plant, and finding the heat
almost insupportable. We carried all the necessary im-
plements, and found Harris quite ready to drink some
claret and water which we took for him. To cut up so
large a bull, and one now with so dreadful an odor, was
no joke; but with the will follows the success, and in
about one hour the poor beast had been measured and
weighed, and we were once more ez route for the fort.
This bull measured as follows: from end of nose to root
of tail, 131 inches; height at shoulder, 67 inches; at
rump, 57 inches; tail vertebree, 1534 inches, hair in length
beyond it 11 inches. We weighed the whole animal by
cutting it in parts and then by addition found that this
Buffalo, which was an old bull, weighed 1777 lbs. avoir-
dupois. The flesh was all tainted, and was therefore left
for the beasts of prey. Our road was over high hills, and
presented to our searching eyes a great extent of broken
ground, and here and there groups of Buffaloes grazing.
This afternoon we are going to bring in the skeleton of
Mr. Culbertson’s second bull. I lost the head of my first
bull because I forgot to tell Mrs. Culbertson that I wished
to save it, and the princess had its skull broken open to
enjoy its brains. Handsome, and really courteous and
refined in many ways, I cannot reconcile to myself the
fact that she partakes of raw animal food with such evi-
-dent relish. Before our departure, in came six half-
breeds, belonging, or attached to Fort Mortimer; and
understanding that they were first-rate hunters, I offered
them ten dollars in goods for each Bighorn up to eight
I12 AUDUBON
or ten in number. They have promised to go to-morrow,
but, alas! the half-breeds are so uncertain I cannot tell
whether they will move a step or not. Mrs. Culbertson,
who has great pride in her pure Indian blood, told me
with scorn that “all such no-color fellows are lazy.” We
were delayed in starting by a very heavy gale of wind and
hard rain, which cooled the weather considerably; but we
finally got off in the wagon, the cart with three mules
following, to bring in the skeleton of the Buffalo which
Mr. Culbertson had killed; but we were defeated, for
some Wolves had been to it, dragged it about twenty-five
feet, and gnawed the ends of the ribs and the backbone.
The head of Harris’s bull was brought in, but it was
smaller; the horns alone were pretty good, and they were
given to Sprague. On our return Mrs. Culbertson was
good enough to give me six young Mallards, which she
had caught by swimming after them in the Missouri; she
is a most expert and graceful swimmer, besides being
capable of remaining under water a long time; all the
Blackfoot Indians excel in swimming and take great pride
in the accomplishment. We found three of the Assini-
boins had remained, one of whom wanted to carry off a
squaw, and probably a couple of horses too. He strutted
about the fart in such a manner that we watched him
pretty closely. Mr. Culbertson took his gun, and a six-
barrelled pistol in his pocket; I, my double-barrelled
gun, and we stood at the back gate. The fellow had a
spear made of a cut-and-thrust sword, planted in a good
stick covered with red cloth, and this he never put down
at any time; but no more, indeed, do any Indians, who
carry all their goods and chattels forever about their per-
sons. The three gentlemen, however, went off about
dusk, and took the road to Fort Mortimer, where six half-
breeds from the Northeast brought to Fort Mortimer
eleven head of cattle, and came to pay a visit to their
friends here. All these men know Provost, and have
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 113
inquired for him. I feel somewhat, uneasy about Provost
and La Fleur, who have now been gone four full days.
The prairie is wet and damp, so I must sleep indoors.
The bull we cut up was not a fat one; I think in good
condition it would have weighed 2000 Ibs.
Fuly 25, Tuesday. We were all rather lazy this morn-
ing, but about dinner-time Owen and his man arrived,
and told us they had reached Mr. Kipp and his boat at
the crossings within about half a mile of Fort Alexander;
that his men were all broken down with drawing the
cordelle through mud and water, and that they had lost a
white horse, which, however, Owen saw on his way, and
on the morning of his start from this fort. About the
same time he shot a large Porcupine, and killed four bulls
and one cow to feed upon, as well as three rattlesnakes.
_ They saw a large number of Buffalo cows, and we are
going after them to-morrow morning bright and early.
About two hours later Provost and La Fleur, about whom
I had felt some uneasiness, came to the landing, and
brought the heads and skins attached to two female Ante-
lopes. Both had been killed by one shot from La Fleur,
and his ball broke the leg of a third. Provost was made
quite sick by the salt water he had drunk; he killed
one doe, on which they fed as well as on the flesh of
the “Cabris.” Whilst following the Mauvaises Terres
(broken lands), they saw about twenty Bighorns, and
had not the horse on which Provost rode been frightened
at the sight of a monstrous buck of these animals, he
would have shot it down within twenty yards. They saw
from fifteen to twenty Buffalo cows, and we hope some of
the hunters will come up with them to-morrow. I have
been drawing the head of one of these beautiful female
Antelopes; but their horns puzzle me, and all of us; they
seem to me as if they were zew horns, soft and short;
time, however, will prove whether they shed them or not.
Our preparations are already made for preserving the
VOL. 11.—8
114 AUDUBON
skins of the Antelopes, and Sprague is making an outline
which I hope will be finished before the muscles of the
head begin to soften. Not a word from the six hunters
who promised to go after Bighorns on the Yellowstone.
Fuly 26, Wednesday. We were all on foot before day-
break and had our breakfast by an early hour, and left on
our trip for Buffalo cows. The wagon was sent across by
hauling it through the east channel, which is now quite
low, and across the sand-bars, which now reach seven-
eighths of the distance across the river. We crossed in
the skiff, and walked to the ferry-boat —I barefooted, as
well as Mr. Culbertson; others wore boots or moccasins,
but my feet have been tender of late, and this is the best
cure. Whilst looking about for sticks to support our
mosquito bars, I saw a Rabbit standing before me, within
a few steps, but I was loaded with balls, and should have
torn the poor thing so badly that it would have been use-
less as a specimen, so let it live. We left the ferry be-
fore six, and went on.as usual. We saw two Antelopes
on entering the bottom prairie, but they had the wind of
us, and scampered off to the hills. We saw two Grouse,
one of which Bell killed, and we found it very good this
evening for our supper. Twelve bulls were seen, but we
paid no attention to them. We saw a fine large Hawk,
apparently the size of a Red-tailed Hawk, but with the
whole head white. It had alighted on a clay hill or bank,
but, on being approached, flew off to another, was pur-
sued and again flew away, so that we could not procure
it, but I have no doubt that it is a species not yet de-
scribed. We now crossed Blackfoot River, and saw great
numbers of Antelopes. Their play and tricks are curious;
I watched many of the groups a long time, and will not
soon forget them. At last, seeing we should have no
meat for supper, and being a party of nine, it was deter-
mined that the first animal seen should be run down and
killed. We soon saw a bull, and all agreed to give every
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 115
chance possible to Squires. Mr. C., Owen, and Squires
started, and Harris followed without a gun, to see the
chase. The bull was wounded twice by Squires, but no
blood came from the mouth, and now all three shot at it,
but the bull was not apparently hurt seriously; he became
more and more furious, and began charging upon them.
Unfortunately, Squires ran between the bull and a ravine
quite close to the animal, and it suddenly turned on him;
his horse became frightened and jumped into the ravine,
the bull followed, and now Squires lost his balance;
however, he threw his gun down, and fortunately clung
to the mane of his horse and recovered his seat. The
horse got away and saved his life, for, from what Mr. C.
told me, had he fallen, the bull would have killed him in
a few minutes, and no assistance could be afforded him,
as Mr. C. and Owen had, at that moment, empty guns.
Squires told us all; he had never been so bewildered and
terrified before. The bull kept on running, and was shot
at perhaps twenty times, for when he fell he had twelve
balls in his side, and had been shot twice in the head.
Another bull was now seen close by us, and Owen killed
it after four shots. Whilst we were cutting up this one,
La Fleur and some one else went to the other, which was
found to be very poor, and, at this season smelling very
rank and disagreeable. A few of the best pieces were
cut away, and, as usual, the hunters ate the liver and fat
quite raw, like Wolves, and we were now on the move
again. Presently we saw seven animals coming towards
us, and with the glass discovered there were six bulls
and one cow. The hunters mounted in quick time, and
away after the cow, which Owen killed very soon. To
my surprise the bulls did not leave her, but stood about
one hundred yards from the hunters, who were cutting
her in pieces; the best parts were taken for dried meat.
Had we not been so many, the bulls would, in all proba-
bility, have charged upon the butchers, but after a time
116 AUDUBON
they went off at a slow canter. At this moment Harris
and I were going towards the party thus engaged, when a
Swift Fox started from a hole under the feet of Harris’
horse. I was loaded with balls, and he also; he gave
chase and gained upon the beautiful animal with remark-
able quickness. Bell saw this, and joined Harris, whilst
I walked towards the butchering party. The Fox was
overtaken by Harris, who took aim at it several times,
but could not get sight on him, and the little fellow
doubled and cut about in such a manner that it escaped
into a ravine, and was seen no more. Now who will tell
me that no animal can compete with this Fox in speed,
when Harris, mounted on an Indian horse, overtook it in
afew minutes? We were now in sight of a large band of
cows and bulls, but the sun was low, and we left them to
make our way to the camping-place, which we reached
just before the setting of the sun. We found plenty of
water, and a delightful spot, where we were all soon at
work unsaddling our horses and mules, bringing wood
for fires, and picking service-berries, which we found in
great quantities and very good. We were thirty miles
from Fort Union, close to the three Mamelles, but must
have travelled near fifty, searching for and running down
the game. All slept well, some outside and others in-
side the tent, after our good supper. We had a clear,
bright day, with the wind from the westward.
Fuly 27, Thursday. This morning was beautiful, the
birds singing all around us, and after our early breakfast,
Harris, with La Fleur and Mr. Culbertson, walked to the
top of the highest of the three Mamelles; Bell went to
skinning the birds shot yesterday,! among which was a
1 Among the “birds shot yesterday,” July 26, when Audubon was too
full of his Buffalo hunt to notice them in his Journal, were two, a male and
a female, killed by Mr. Bell, which turned out to be new to science. For
these were no other than Baird’s Bunting, Zméeriza batrdii of Audubon,
B. Amer. vii., 1844, p. 359, pl. 500. Audubon there says it was “‘ during one
of our Buffalo hunts, on the 26th July, 1843,” and adds: “I have named this
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 117
large Titmouse of the Eastern States, while I walked off a
short distance, and made a sketch of the camp and the
three Mamelles. I hope to see a fair picture from this,
painted by Victor, this next winter, God willing. Dur-
ing the night the bulls were heard bellowing, and the
Wolves howling, all around us. Bell had seen evidences
of Grizzly Bears close by, but we saw none of the animals.
An Antelope was heard snorting early this morning, and
seen for a while, but La Fleur could not get it. The
snorting of the Antelope is more like a whistling, sneez-
ing sound, than like the long, clear snorting of our com-
mon Deer, and it is also very frequently repeated, say
every few minutes, when in sight of an object of which
the animal does not yet know the nature; for the moment
it is assured of danger, it bounds three or four times like
a sheep, and then either trots off or gallops like a horse.
On the return of the gentlemen from the eminence, from
which they had seen nothing but a Hawk, and heard the
notes of tthe Rock Wren, the horses were gathered, and
preparations made to go in search of cows. I took my
gun and walked off ahead, and on ascending the first hill
saw an Antelope, which, at first sight, I thought was an
Indian. It stood still, gazing at me about five hundred
yards off; I never stirred, and presently it walked towards
me; I lay down and lowered my rifle; the animal could
not now see my body; I showed it my feet a few times, at
intervals. Presently I saw it coming full trot towards
me; I cocked my gun, loaded with buck-shot in one bar-
species after my young friend Spencer F. Baird, of Carlisle, Pennsylvania.”
Special interest attaches to this case; for the bird was not only the first one
ever dedicated to Baird, but the last one ever named, described, and figured
by Audubon; and the plate of it completes the series of exactly 500 plates
which the octavo edition of the “ Birds of America” contains. This bird
became the Centronyx bairdii of Baird, the Passerculus bairdi of Coues, and
the Ammodramus bairdi of some other ornithologists. See “Birds of the
Colorado Valley,” i., 1878, p. 630. One of Audubon’s specimens shot this
day is catalogued in Baird’s Birds of N. Am., 1858, p. 441. — E. C.
118 AUDUBON
rel and ball in the other. He came within thirty yards of
me and stopped suddenly, then turned broadside towards
me. I could see his very eyes, his beautiful form, and
his fine horns, for it was a buck. I pulled one trigger —
it snapped, the animal moved not; I pulled the other,
snapped again, and away the Antelope bounded, and ran
swiftly from me. I put’on fresh caps, and saw it stop
after going a few hundred yards, and presently it came
towards me again, but not within one hundred and fifty
yards, when seeing that it would not come nearer I pulled
the trigger with the ball; off it went, and so did the Ante-
lope, which this time went quite out of my sight. I re-
turned to camp and found all ready for a move. Owen
went upa hill to reconnoitre for Antelopes and cows; see-
ing one of the former he crept after it. Bell followed,
and at this moment a Hare leaped from the path before
us, and stopped within twenty paces. Harris was not
loaded with shot, and I only with buck-shot; however, I
fired and killed it; it proved to be a large female, and
after measuring, we skinned it, and I put on a label
“Townsend’s Hare, killed a few miles from the three
Mamelles, July 27, 1843.” After travelling for a good
while, Owen, who kept ahead of us, made signs from the
top of a high hill that Buffaloes were in sight. This
signal is made by walking the rider’s horse backwards
and forwards several times. We hurried on towards him,
and when we reached the place, he pointed to the spot
where he had seen them, and said they were travelling
fast, being a band of both cows and bulls. The hunters
were mounted at once, and on account of Squires’ sore-
ness I begged him not to run; so he drove me in the
wagon as fast as possible over hills, through plains and
ravines of all descriptions, at a pace beyond belief. From
time to time we saw the hunters, and once or twice the
Buffaloes, which were going towards the fort. At last
we reached an eminence from which we saw both the
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THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS II9Q
game and the hunters approaching the cattle, preparatory
to beginning the chase. It seems there is no etiquette
among Buffalo hunters, and this proyed a great disap-
pointment to friend Harris, who was as anxious to killa
cow, as he had been to killa bull. Off went the whole
group, but the country was not as advantageous to the
pursuers, as to the pursued. The cows separated from
the bulls, the latter making their way towards us, and
six of them passed within one hundred yards of where I
stood; we let them pass, knowing well how savage they
are at these times, and turned our eyes again to the
hunters. I saw Mr. C. pursuing one cow, Owen another,
and Bell a third. Owen shot one and mortally wounded
it; it walked up on a hill and stood there for some min-
utes before falling. Owen killed a second close by the
one Mr. C. had now killed, Bell’s dropped dead in quite
another direction, nearly one mile off. Two bulls we saw
coming directly towards us, so La Fleur and I went under
cover of the hill to await their approach, and they came
within sixty yards of us. I gave La Fleur the choice of
shooting first, as he had a rifle; he shot and missed; they
turned and ran in an opposite direction, so that I, who
_had gone some little distance beyond La Fleur, had no
chance, and I was sorry enough for my politeness. Owen
had shot a third cow, which went part way up a hill, fell,
and kicked violently; she, however, rose and again fell,
and kept kicking with all her legs in the air. Squires
now drove to her, and I walked, followed by Moncrévier,
a hunter; seeing Mr. C. and Harris on the bottom below
we made signs for them to come up, and they fortunately
did, and by galloping to Squires probably saved that
young man from more danger; for though I cried to him
at the top of my voice, the wind prevented him from hear-
ing me; he now stopped, however, not far from a badly
broken piece of ground over which had he driven at his
usual speed, which I doubt not he would have attempted,
120 AUDUBON
some accident must have befallen him. WHarris and Mr.
C. rode up to the cow, which expired at that moment.
The cow Mr. C. had killed was much the largest, and we
left a cart and two men to cut up this, and the first two
Owen had killed, and went to the place where the first
lay, to have it skinned forme. Bell joined us soon, bring-
ing a tongue with him, and he immediately began opera-
tions on the cow, which proved a fine one, and I have the
measurements as follows: “Buffalo Cow, killed by Mr.
Alexander Culbertson, July 27, 1843. Nose to root of
tail, 96 inches. Height at shoulder, 60; at rump, 553.
Length of tail vertebrae, 13; to end of hair, 25; from
brisket to bottom of feet, 213; nose to anterior canthus,
104; between horns at root, 112; between tops of ditto,
174; between nostrils, 2}; length of ditto, 24; height of
nose, 34; nose to opening of ear, 20; ear from opening to
tip, 5; longest hair on head, 14 inches; from angle of
mouth to end of under lip, 34.” Whilst we were at this,
Owen and Pike were hacking at their cow. After awhile
all was ready for departure, and we made for the “coupe”
at two o’clock, and expected to have found water to ena-
ble us to water our horses, for we had yet some gallons
of the Missouri water for our own use. We found the
road to the “coupe,” which was seen for many, many miles.
The same general appearance of country shows through-
out the whole of these dreary prairies; up one hill and
down on the other side, then across a plain with ravines
of more or less depth. About two miles west of the
“coupe,” Owen and others went in search of water, but
in vain; and we have had to cross the “coupe” and travel
fully two miles east of it, when we came to a mere puddle,
sufficient however, for the night, and we stopped. The
carts with the meat, and our effects, arrived after a while;
the meat was spread on the grass, the horses and mules
hoppled and let go, to drink and feed. All hands col-
lected Buffalo dung for fuel, for not a bush was in sight,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 121
and we soon had a large fire. In the winter season
this prairie fuel is too wet to burn, and oftentimes the
hunters have to eat their meat raw, or go without their
supper. Ours was cooked however; I made mine chiefly
from the liver, as did Harris; others ate boiled or roasted
meat as they preferred. The tent was pitched, and I
made a bed for Mr. C. and myself, and guns, etc., were
all under cover; the evening was cool, the wind fresh,
and no mosquitoes. We had seen plenty of Antelopes;
I shot at one twenty yards from the wagon with small
shot. Harris killed a Wolf, but we have seen very few,
and now I will wish you all good-night; God bless you!
Fuly 28, Friday. This morning was cold enough for a
frost, but we all slept soundly until daylight, and about
half-past three we were called for breakfast. The horses
had all gone but four, and, as usual, Owen was despatched
for them. The horses were brought back, our coffee
swallowed, and we were off, Mr. C. and I, in the wagon.
We saw few Antelopes, no Buffalo, and reached the
ferry opposite the fort at half-past seven. We found
all well, and about eleven Assiniboins, all young men,
headed by the son of a great chief called “Le mangeur
d’hommes” (the man-eater). The poor wretched Indian
whom Harris had worked over, died yesterday morning,
and was buried at once. I had actually felt chilly riding
in the wagon, and much enjoyed a breakfast Mrs. Culbert-
son had kindly provided for me. We had passed over
some very rough roads, and at breakneck speed, but I did
not feel stiff as I expected, though somewhat sore, and a
good night’s rest is all I need. This afternoon the cow’s
skin and head, and the Hare arrived, and have been pre-
served. A half-breed well known to Provost has been
here to make a bargain with me about Bighorns, Grizzly
Bear, etc., and will see what he and his two sons can do;
but I have little or no confidence in these gentry. I was
told this afternoon that at Mouse River, about two hundred
122 AUDUBON
miles north of this, there are eight hundred carts in one
gang, and four hundred in another, with an adequate num-
ber of half-breeds and Indians, killing Buffalo and drying
their meat for winter provisions, and that the animals are
there in millions. When Buffalo bulls are shot from a
distance of sixty or seventy yards, they rarely charge on
the hunter, and Mr. Culbertson has killed as many as nine
bulls from the same spot, when unseen by these terrible
beasts. Beavers, when shot swimming, and killed, sink at
once to the bottom, but their bodies rise again in from
twenty to thirty minutes. Hunters, who frequently shoot
and kill them by moonlight, return in the morning from
their camping-places, and find them on the margins of the
shores where they had shot. Otters do the same, but
remain under water for an hour or more.
Fuly 29, Saturday. Cooland pleasant. About one hour
after daylight Harris, Bell, and two others, crossed the
river, and went in search of Rabbits, but all returned with-
out success. Harris, after breakfast, went off on this side,
saw none, but killed a young Raven. During the course
of the forenoon he and Bell went off again, and brought
home an old and young of the Sharp-tailed Grouse. This
afternoon they brought in a Loggerhead Shrike and two
Rock Wrens. Bell skinned all these. Sprague made a
handsome sketch of the five young Buffaloes belonging to
the fort. This evening Moncrévier and Owen went on the
other side of the river, but saw nothing. We collected
berries of the dwarf cherries of this part, and I bottled
some service-berries to carry home.
Fuly 30, Sunday. Weather cool and pleasant. After
breakfast we despatched La Fleur and Provost after Ante-
lopes and Bighorns. We then went off and had a battue
for Rabbits, and although we were nine in number, and all
beat the rose bushes and willows for several hundred yards,
not one did we see, although their traces were apparent in
several places. We saw tracks of a young Grizzly Bear
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 123
near the river shore. After a good dinner of Buffalo meat,
green peas, and a pudding, Mr. C., Owen, Mr. Pike, and I
went off to Fort Mortimer. We had an arrival of five
squaws, half-breeds, and a gentleman of the same order,
who came to see our fort and our ladies. The princess
went out to meet them covered with a fine shawl, and the
visitors followed her to her own room. These ladies spoke
both the French and Cree languages. At Fort Mortimer
we found the hunters from the north, who had returned
last évening and told me they had seen nothing. I fear
that all my former opinions of the half-breeds are likely to
be realized, and that they are all more aw fait at telling
lies, than anything else; and I expect now that we shall
have to make a regular turn-out ourselves, to kill both
Grizzly Bears and Bighorns. As we were riding along not
far from this fort, Mr. Culbertson fired off the gun given
him by Harris, and it blew off the stock, lock, and breech,
and it was a wonder it did not kill him, or me, as I was
sitting by his side. After we had been at home about one
hour, we were all called out of a sudden by the news that
the Horse Guards were coming, full gallop, driving the
whole of their charge before them. We saw the horses,
and the cloud of dust that they raised on the prairies, and
presently, when the Guards reached the gates, they told us
that they had seen a party of Indians, which occasioned
their hurried return. It is now more than one hour since
I wrote this, and the Indians are now in sight, and we
think they were frightened by three or four squaws who had
left the fort in search of ‘“ pommes blanches.” Sprague
has collected a few seeds, but I intend to have some time
devoted to this purpose before we leave on our passage
downwards. This evening five Indians arrived, among
whom is the brother of the man who died a few days ago;
he brought a horse, and an Elk skin, which I bought, and
he now considers himself a rich man. He reported Buf-
faloes very near, and to-morrow morning the hunters will
124 AUDUBON
be after them. When Buffaloes are about to lie down,
they draw all their four feet together slowly, and balancing
the body for a moment, bend their fore legs, and fall on
their knees first, and the hind ones follow. In young
animals, some of which we have here, the effect produced
on their tender skin is directly seen, as callous round
patches without hair are found; after the animal is about
one year old, these are seen no more. I am told that
Wolves have not been known to attack men and horses in
these parts, but they do attack mules and colts, always
making choice of the fattest. We scarcely see one now-a-
days about the fort, and yet two miles from here, at Fort
Mortimer, Mr. Collins tells me it is impossible to sleep, on
account of their howlings at night. When Assiniboin
Indians lose a relative by death, they go and cry under
the box which contains the body, which is placed in a tree,
cut their legs and different parts of the body, and moan
miserably for hours ata time. This performance has been
gone through with by the brother of the Indian who died
here.
Fuly 31, Monday. Weather rather warmer. Mr. Lar-
penteur went after Rabbits, saw none, but found a horse,
which was brought home this afternoon. Mr. C., Harris,
Bell, and Owen went after Buffaloes over the hills, saw
none, so that all this day has been disappointment to us.
Owen caught a Spermophilus hoodit, The brother of
the dead Indian, who gashed his legs fearfully this morning,
went off with his wife and children and six others, who had
come here to beg. One of them had for a letier of recom-
mendation one of the advertisements of the steamer
“Trapper,” which will be kept by his chief for time imme-
morial to serve as a pass for begging. He received from
us ammunition and tobacco. Sprague collected seeds this
morning, and this afternoon copied my sketch of the three
Mamelles, Towards sunset I intend to go myself after
Rabbits, along the margins of the bushes and the shore.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 125
We have returned from my search after Rabbits; Harris and
I each shot one. We saw five Wild Geese. Harris lost
his snuff-box, which he valued, and which I fear will never
be found, Squires to-day proposed to me to let him
remain here this winter to procure birds and quadrupeds,
and I would have said “ yes” at once, did he understand
either or both these subjects, or could draw; but as he does
not, it would be useless.
August 1, Tuesday. The weather fine, and warmer than
yesterday. We sent off four Indians after Rabbits, but as
we foolishly gave them powder and shot, they returned
without any very soon, having, of course, hidden the
ammunition. After breakfast Mr. C. had a horse put
in the cart, and three squaws went off after ‘‘ pommes
blanches,” and Sprague and I followed in the wagon,
driven by Owen. These women carried sticks pointed at
one end, and blunt at the other, and I was perfectly aston-
ished at the dexterity and rapidity with which they worked.
They place the pointed end within six inches of the plant,
where the stem enters the earth, and bear down upon the
other end with all their weight and move about to the
right and left of the plant until the point of the stick is
thrust in the ground to the depth of about seven inches,
when acting upon it in the manner of a lever, the plant is
fairly thrown out, and the root procured. Sprague and I,
who had taken with us an instrument resembling a very
narrow hoe, and a spade, having rather despised the simple
instruments of the squaws, soon found out that these
damsels could dig six or seven, and in some cases a dozen,
to our ove. We collected some seeds of these plants as
well as those of some others, and walked fully six miles,
which has rendered my feet quite tender again. Owen told
me that he had seen, on his late journey up the Yellow-
stone, Grouse, both old and young, with a black breast
and with a broad tail; they were usually near the margin
of a wood. What they are I cannot tell, but he and Bell
126 AUDUBON
are going after them to-morrow morning. Just after dinner
Provost and La Fleur returned with two male Antelopes,
skinned, one of them a remarkably large buck, the other
less in size, both skins in capital order. We have taken
the measurements of the head of the larger. The timber
for our boat has been hauling across the sand-bar ever
since daylight, and of course the work will proceed pretty
fast. The weather is delightful, and at night, indeed, quite
cool enough. I spoke to Sprague last night about remain-
ing here next winter, as he had mentioned his wish to do
so to Bell some time ago, but he was very undecided.
My regrets that I promised you all so faithfully that I
would return this fall are beyond description. I am, as
years go, an old man, but I do not feel old, and there is
so much of interest here that I forget oftentimes that I am
not as young as Owen.
August 2, Wednesday. Bell and Owen started on their
tour up the Yellowstone! after Cocks of the Plain [Sage
Grouse, Centrocercus urophasianus|. Provost and Mon-
crévier went in the timber below after Deer, but saw none.
We had an arrival of six Chippeway Indians, and afterwards
about a dozen Assiniboins. Both these parties were better
dressed, and looked better off than any previous groups that
we have seen at this fort. They brought some few robes to
barter, and the traffic was carried on by Mr. Larpenteur in
his little shop, through a wicket. On the arrival of the
Assiniboins, who were headed by an old man, one of the
Chippeways discovered a horse, which he at once not only
claimed, but tied; he threw down his new blanket on the
ground, and was leading off the horse, when the other Indian
caught hold of it, and said that he had fairly bought it, etc.
The Chippeway now gave him his gun, powder, and ball, as
well as his ooking-glass, the most prized of all his posses-
sions, and the Assiniboin, now apparently satisfied, gave
up the horse, which was led away by the new (or old)
1 See Bell’s account of the trip, page 176.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 127
owner. We thought the matter was ended, but Mr. Cul-
bertson told us that either the horse or the Chippeway
would be caught and brought back. The latter had
mounted a fine horse which he had brought with him, and
was leading the other away, when presently a gun was
heard out of the fort, and Mr. C. ran to tell us that
the horse of the Chippeway had been shot, and that the
rider was running as fast as he could to Fort Mortimer.
Upon going out we found the horse standing still, and the
man running; we went to the poor animal, and found that
the ball had passed through the thigh, and entered the
belly. The poor horse was trembling like an aspen; he at
last moved, walked about, and went to the river, where he
died. Now it is curious that it was not the same Assini-
boin who had sold the horse that had shot, but another of
their party; and we understand that it was on account of
an old grudge against the Chippeway, who, by the way,
was a surly-looking rascal. The Assiniboins brought eight
or ten horses and colts, and a number of dogs. One of
the colts had a necklace of “‘ pommes blanches,” at the end
of which hung a handful of Buffalo calves’ hoofs, not more
than ? inch long, and taken from the calves before birth,
when the mothers had been killed. Harris and I took a
ride in the wagon over the Mauvaises Terres above the
fort, in search of petrified wood, but though we found
many specimens, they were of such indifferent quality that
we brought home but one. On returning we followed a
Wolf path, of which there are hundreds through the sur-
rounding hills, all leading to the fort. It is curious to
see how well they understand the best and shortest roads.
From what had happened, we anticipated a row among the
Indians, but all seemed quiet. Mr. C. gave us a good
account of Fort McKenzie. I have been examining the
fawn of the Long-tailed Deer of this country, belonging to
old Baptiste; the man feeds it regularly, and the fawn fol-
lows him everywhere. It will race backwards and for-
128 AUDUBON
wards over the prairie back of the fort, for a mile or more,
running at the very top of its speed; suddenly it will
make for the gate, rush through and overwhelm Baptiste
with caresses, as if it had actually lost him for some time.
If Baptiste lies onthe ground pretending to sleep, the fawn
pushes with its nose, and licks his face as a dog would, till
he awakens.
August 8, Thursday. We observed yesterday that the
atmosphere was thick, and indicated the first appearance
of the close of summer, which here is brief. The nights
and mornings have already become cool, and summer
clothes will not be needed much longer, except occasion-
ally. Harris and Sprague went to the hills so much en-
crusted with shells. We have had some talk about going
to meet Bell and Owen, but the distance is too great, and
Mr. C. told me he was not acquainted with the road beyond
the first twenty-five or thirty miles. We have had a slight
shower, and Mr. C. and I walked across the bar to see the
progress of the boat. The horse that died near the river
was hauled across to the sand-bar, and will make good cat-
fish bate for our fishers. This morning we had another
visitation of Indians, seven in number; they were very
dirty, wrapped in disgusting Buffalo robes, and were not
allowed inside the inner gate, on account of their filthy
condition.
August 4, Friday. We were all under way this morning
at half-past five, on a Buffalo hunt, that is to say, the resi-
due of ws, Harris and I, for Bell was away with Owen, and
Squires with Provost after Bighorns, and Sprague at Fort
Mortimer. Tobacco and matches had been forgotten, and
that detained us for half an hour; but at last we started in
good order, with only one cart following us, which carried
Pike and Moncrévier. We saw, after we had travelled ten
miles, some Buffalo bulls; some alone, others in groups of
four or five, a few Antelopes, but more shy than ever be-
fore. I was surprised to see how careless the bulls were
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 129
of us, as some actually gave us chances to approach them
within a hundred yards, looking steadfastly, as if not caring
a bit for us. At last we saw one lying down immediately
in our road, and determined to give him a chance for his
life. Mr. C. had a white horse, a runaway, in which he
placed a good deal of confidence; he mounted it, and we
looked after him. The bull did not start till Mr. C. was
within a hundred yards, and then at a gentle and slow
gallop. The horse galloped too, but only at the same
rate. Mr. C. thrashed him until his hands were sore, for
he had no whip, the bull went off without even a shot
being fired, and the horse is now looked upon as forever
disgraced. About two miles farther another bull was ob-
served lying down in our way, and it was concluded to
run him with the white horse, accompanied, however, by
Harris. The chase took place, and the bull was killed by
Harris, but the white horse is now scorned by every one.
A few pieces of meat, the tongue, tail, and head, were all
that was taken from this very large bull. We soon saw
that the weather was becoming cloudy, and we were
anxious to reach a camping-place; but we continued to
cross ranges of hills, and hoped to see a large herd of
Buffaloes. The weather was hot “ out of mind,’ and we
continued till, reaching a fine hill, we saw in a beautiful
valley below us seventy to eighty head, feeding peacefully
in groups and singly, as might happen. The bulls were
mixed in with the cows, and we saw one or two calves.
Many bulls were at various distances from the main group,
but as we advanced towards them they galloped off and
joined the others. When the chase began it was curious
to see how much swifter the cows were than the bulls, and
how soon they divided themselves into parties of seven or
eight, exerting themselves to escape from their murderous
pursuers. All in vain, however; off went the guns and
down went the cows, or stood bleeding through the nose,
mouth, or bullet holes. Mr. C. killed three, and Harris
VOL. 11.—9
130 AUDUBON
one in about half an hour. We had quite enough, and the
slaughter was ended. We had driven up to the nearest
fallen cow, and approached close to her, and found that
she was not dead, but trying to rise to her feet. I cannot
bear to see an animal suffer unnecessarily, so begged one
of the men to take my knife and stab her to the heart,
which was done. The animals were cut up and skinned,
with considerable fatigue. To skin bulls and cows and
cut up their bodies is no joke, even to such as are con-
stantly in the habit of doing it. Whilst, Mr. Culbertson
and the rest had gone to cut up another at some distance,
I remained on guard to save the meat from the Wolves, but
none came before my companions returned. We found
the last cow quite dead. As we were busy about her the
rain fell in torrents, and I found my blanket capote of great
service. It was now nearly sundown, and we made up our
minds to camp close by, although there was no water for
our horses, neither any wood. Harris and I began collect-
ing Buffalo-dung from all around, whilst the others attended
to various other affairs. The meat was all unloaded and
spread on the ground, the horses made fast, the fire burned
freely, pieces of liver were soon cooked and devoured,
coffee drunk in abundance, and we went to rest.
August 5, Saturday. It rained in the night; but this
morning the weather was cool, wind at northwest, and
_ Cloudy, but not menacing rain. We made through the
road we had come yesterday, and on our way Harris shot
a young of the Swift Fox, which we could have caught
alive had we not been afraid of running into some hole.
We saw only a few bulls and Antelopes, and some Wolves.
The white horse, which had gone out as a hunter, returned
as a pack-horse, loaded with the entire flesh of a Buffalo
cow; and our two mules drew three more and the heads of
all four. This morning at daylight, when we were called to
drink our coffee, there was a Buffalo feeding within twenty
steps of our tent, and it moved slowly towards the hills as
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 131
we busied ourselves making preparations for our departure.
We reached the fort at noon; Squires, Provost, and La
Fleur had returned; they had wounded a Bighorn, but had
lost it. Owen and Bell returned this afternoon; they had
seen no Cocks of the plains, but brought the skin of a
female Elk, a Porcupine, and a young White-headed Eagle.
Provost tells me that Buffaloes become so very poor during
hard winters, when the snows cover the ground to the depth
of two or three feet, that they lose their hair, become
covered with scabs, on which the Magpies feed, and the
poor beasts die by hundreds. One can hardly conceive
how it happens, notwithstanding these many deaths and
the immense numbers that are murdered almost daily on
these boundless wastes called prairies, besides the hosts
that are drowned in the freshets, and the hundreds of young
calves who die in early spring, so many are yet to be
found. Daily we see so many that we hardly notice them
more than thecattle in our pastures about ourhomes. But
this cannot last; even now there is a perceptible difference
in the size of the herds, and before many years the Buffalo,
like the Great Auk, will have disappeared; surely this
should not be permitted. Bell has been relating his ad-
ventures, our boat is going on, and I wish I had a couple
of Bighorns. God bless you all.
August 6, Sunday. I very nearly lost the skin of the
Swift Fox, for Harris supposed the animal rotten with the
great heat, which caused it to have an odor almost insup-
portable, and threw it on the roof of the gallery. Bell was
so tired he did not look at it, so I took it down, skinned
it, and with the assistance of Squires put the coat into
pickle, where I daresay it will keep well enough. The
weather is thick, and looks like a thunderstorm. Bell, hav-
ing awaked refreshed by his night’s rest, has given me the
measurements of the Elk and the Porcupine. Provost has
put the skin of the former in pickle, and has gone to Fort
Mortimer to see Boucherville and others, to try if they
132 AUDUBON
would go after Bighorn to-morrow morning. This after-
noon we had an arrival of Indians, the same who were here
about two weeks ago. They had been to Fort Clark, and
report that a battle had taken place between the Crees and
Gros Ventres, and that the latter had lost. Antelopes
often die from the severity of the winter weather, and are
found dead and shockingly poor, even in the immediate
vicinity of the forts. These animals are caught in pens
in the manner of Buffaloes, and are despatched with clubs,
principally by the squaws. In 1840, during the winter,
and when the snow was deep on the prairies and in the
ravines by having drifted there, Mr. Laidlow, then at Fort
Union, caught four Antelopes by following them on horse-
back and forcing them into these drifts, which were in
places ten or twelve feet deep. They were brought home
on a sleigh, and let loose about the rooms. They were so
very gentle that they permitted the children to handle
them, although being loose they could have kept from
them. They were removed to the carpenter’s shop, and
there one broke its neck by leaping over a turning-lathe.
The others were al] killed in some such way, for they be-
came very wild, and jumped, kicked, etc., till all were dead.
Very young Buffaloes have been caught in the same way,
by the same gentleman, assisted by Le Brun and four
Indians, and thirteen of these he took down the river,
when they became somewhat tamed. The Antelopes can-
not be tamed except when caught young, and then they
can rarely be raised. Mr. Wm. Sublette, of St. Louis, had
one however, a female, which grew to maturity, and was
so gentle that it would go all over his house, mounting
and descending steps, and even going on the roof of the
house. It was alive when I first reached St. Louis, but I
was not aware of it, and before I left, it was killed by an
Elk belonging to the same gentleman. Provost returned,
and said that Boucherville would go with him and La Fleur
to-morrow morning early, but I doubt tt.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 133
August 7, Monday. Provost, Bell, and La Fleur started
after breakfast, having waited nearly four hours for Bou-
cherville. They left at seven, and the Indians were curi-
ous to know where they were bound, and looked at them
with more interest than we all liked. At about nine, we
saw Boucherville, accompanied by five men, all mounted,
and they were surprised that Provost had not waited for
them, or rather that he had left so early. I gave thema
bottle of whiskey, and they started under the whip, and
must have overtaken the first party in about two hours.
To-day has been warmer than any day we have had for
two weeks. Sprague has been collecting seeds, and Har-
ris and I searching for stones with impressions of leaves
and fern; we found several. Mr. Denig says the Assini-
boins killed a Black Bear on White Earth River, about
sixty miles from the mouth; they are occasionally killed
there, but it is a rare occurrence. Mr. Denig saw the skin
of a Bear at their camp last winter, and a Raccoon was also
killed on the Cheyenne River by the Sioux, who knew
not what to make of it. Mr. Culbertson has given me the
following account of a skirmish which took place at Fort
McKenzie in the Blackfoot country, which I copy from his
manuscript.
“August 28,1834. At the break of day we were aroused
from our beds by the report of an enemy being in sight.
This unexpected news created naturally a confusion
among us all; never was a set of unfortunate beings so
surprised as we were. By the time that the alarm had
spread through the fort, we were surrounded by the
enemy, who proved to be Assiniboins, headed by the chief
Gauché (the Antelope). The number, as near as we could
judge, was about four hundred. Their first attack was
upon a few lodges of Piegans, who were encamped at the
fort. They also, being taken by surprise, could not es-
cape. We exerted ourselves, however, to save as many as
we could, by getting them into the fort. But the foolish
134. AUDUBON
squaws, when they started from their lodges, each took a
load of old saddles and skins, which they threw in the
door, and stopped it so completely that they could not get
in, and here the enemy massacred several. In the mean
time our men were firing with muskets and shot-guns.
Unfortunately for us, we could not use our cannon, as
there were a great many Piegans standing between us and
the enemy; this prevented us from firing a telling shot on
them at once. The engagement continued nearly an hour,
when the enemy, finding their men drop very fast, retreated
to the bluffs, half a mile distant; there they stood making
signs for us to come on, and give them an equal chance on
the prairie. Although our force was much weaker than
theirs, we determined to give them atrial. At the same
time we despatched an expert runner to an encampment
of Piegans for a reinforcement. We mounted our horses,
and proceeded to the field of battle, which was a perfect
level, where there was no chance to get behind a tree, or
anything else, to keep off a ball. We commenced our fire
at two hundred yards, but soon lessened the distance to
one hundred. Here we kept up a constant fire for two
hours, when, our horses getting fatigued, we concluded to
await the arrival of our reinforcements. As yet none of
us were killed or badly wounded, and nothing lost but one
horse, which was shot under one of our men named Bour-
bon. Of the enemy we cannot tell how many were killed,
for as fast as they fell they were carried off the field.
After the arrival of our reinforcements, which consisted
of one hundred and fifty mounted Piegans, we charged and
fought again for another two hours, and drove them across
the Maria River, where they took another stand; and here
Mr. Mitchell’s horse was shot under him and he was
wounded. In this engagement the enemy had a decided
advantage over us, as they were concealed in the bushes,
while we were in the open prairie. However, we succeeded
in making them retreat from this place back on to a high
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 135
prairie, but they suddenly rushed upon us and compelled
us to retreat across the Maria. Then they had us in their
power; but for some reason, either lack of courage or
knowledge, they did not avail themselves of their opportu-
nity. They could have killed a great many of us when
we rushed into the water, which was almost deep enough
to swim our horses; they were close upon us, but we suc-
ceeded in crossing before they fired. This foolish move
came near being attended with fatal consequences, which
we were aware of, but our efforts to.stop it were unsuc-
cessful. We, however, did not retreat far before we turned
upon them again, with the determination of driving them
to the mountains, in which we succeeded. By this time
it was so dark that we could see no more, and we con-
cluded to return. During the day we lost seven killed,
-and twenty wounded. Two of our dead the enemy had
scalped. It is impossible to tell how many of the enemy
were killed, but their loss must have been much greater
than ours, as they had little ammunition, and at the last
none. Our Indians took two bodies and burned them,
after scalping them. The Indians who were with us in
this skirmish deserve but little credit for their bravery, for
in every close engagement the whites, who were compar-
atively few, always were in advance of them. This, how-
ever, had one good effect, for it removed the idea they had
of our being cowards, and made them believe we were
unusually brave. Had it not been for the assistance we
ave the Piegans they would have been cut off, for I never
saw Indians behave more bravely than the enemy this day;
and had they been well supplied with powder and ball they
would have done much more execution. But necessity
compelled them to spare their ammunition, as they had
come a long way, and they must save enough to enable
them to return home. And on our side had we been posi-
tive they were enemies, even after they had surprised» us
in the manner they did, we could have killed many of them
136 AUDUBON
at first, but thinking that they were a band of Indians
coming with this ceremony to trade (which is not uncom-
mon) we did not fire upon them till the balls and arrows
came whistling about our heads; then only was the word
given, ‘Fire!’ Had they been bold enough at the onset
to have rushed into the fort, we could have done nothing
but suffer death under their tomahawks.”
Mr. Denig gave me the following “ Bear Story,” as he
heard it from the parties concerned: “In the year 1835
two men set out from a trading-post at the head of the
Cheyenne, and in the neighborhood of the Black Hills, to
trap Beaver ; their names were Michel Carriére and Bernard
Le Brun. Carriére was a man about seventy years old,
and had passed most of his life in the Indian country, in
this dangerous occupation of trapping. One evening as
they were setting their traps along the banks of a stream
tributary to the Cheyenne, somewhat wooded by bushes
and cottonwood trees, their ears were suddenly saluted
by a growl, and in a moment a large she Bear rushed upon
them. Le Brun, being a young and active man, imme-
diately picked up his gun, and shot the Bear through the
bowels. Carriére also fired, but missed. The Bear then
pursued them, but as they ran for their lives, their legs did
them good service; they escaped through the bushes, and
the Bear lost sight of them. They had concluded the
Bear had given up the chase, and were again engaged in
setting their traps, when Carriére, who was a short distance
from Le Brun, went through a small thicket with a trap
and came directly in front of the huge, wounded beast,
which, with one spring, bounded upon him and tore him in
an awful manner. With one stroke of the paw on his face
and forehead he cut his nose in two, and one of the claws
reached inward nearly to the brain at the root of the nose;
the same stroke tore out his right eye and most of the
flesh from that side of his face. His arm and side were
literally torn to pieces, and the Bear, after handling him in
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 137
this gentle manner for two or three minutes, threw him
upwards about six feet, when he lodged, to all appearance
dead, in the fork of a tree. Le Brun, hearing the noise,
ran to his assistance, and again shot the Bear and killed it.
He then brought what he at first thought was the dead
body of his friend to the ground. Little appearance of a
human being was left to the poor man, but Le Brun found
life was not wholly extinct. He made a ¢ravazl/e and carried
him by short stages to the nearest trading-post, where the
wounded man slowly recovered, but was, of course, the
most mutilated-looking being imaginable. Carriére, in
telling the story, says that he fully believes it to have been
the Holy Virgin that lifted him up and placed him in the
fork of the tree, and thus preserved his life. The Bear is
stated to have been as large as a common ox, and must
have weighed, therefore, not far from 1500 lbs.” Mr. Denig
adds that he saw the man about a year after the accident,
and some of the wounds were, even then, not healed.
Carriére fully recovered, however, lived a few years, and
was killed by the Blackfeet near Fort Union.
When Bell was fixing his traps on his horse this morn-
ing, I was amused to see Provost and La Fleur laughing
outright at him, as he first put on a Buffalo robe under his
saddle, a blanket over it, and over that his mosquito bar
and his rain protector. These old hunters could not
understand why he needed all these things to be comfort-
able; then, besides, he took a sack of ship-biscuit. Pro-
vost took only an old blanket, a few pounds of dried meat,
and his tin cup, and rode off in his shirt and dirty breeches.
La Fleur was worse off still, for he took no blanket, and
said he could borrow Provost's tin cup; but he, being a
most temperate man, carried the bottle of whiskey to mix
with the brackish water found in the Mauvaises Terres,
among which they have to travel till their return. Harris
and I contemplated going to a quarry from which the
stones of the powder magazine were brought, but it
138 AUDUBON
became too late for us to start in time to see much, and
the wrong horses were brought us, being both runners ; we
went, however, across the river after Rabbits. Harris
killed a Red-cheeked Woodpecker and shot at a Rabbit,
which he missed. We had a sort of show by Moncrévier
which was funny, and well performed; he has much versa-
tility, great powers of mimicry, and is a far better actor than
many who have made names for themselves in that line.
Jean Baptiste told me the following: ‘ About twelve years
ago when Mr. McKenzie was the superintendent of this
fort, at the season when green peas were plenty and good,
Baptiste was sent to the garden about half a mile off, to
gather a quantity. He was occupied doing this, when, at
the end of a row, to his astonishment, he saw a very large
Bear gathering peas also. Baptiste dropped his tin bucket,
ran back to the fort as fast as possible, and told Mr.
McKenzie, who immediately summoned several other men
with guns; they mounted their horses, rode off, and killed
the Bear; but, alas! Mr. Bruin had emptied the bucket of
peas.”
August 8, Tuesday. Another sultry day. Immediately
after breakfast Mr. Larpenteur drove Harris and myself in
search of geological specimens, but we found none worth
having. We killed a Spermophilus hoodii, which, although
fatally wounded, entered its hole, and Harris had to draw
it out by the hind legs. We saw a family of Rock Wrens, |
and killed four of them. I killed two at one shot; one of
the others must have gone in a hole, for though we saw it
fall we could not find it. Another, after being shot, found
its way under a flat stone, and was there picked up, quite
dead, Mr. Larpenteur accidentally turning the stone up.
We saw signs of Antelopes and of Hares (Townsend), and
rolled a large rock from the top of a high hill. The notes
of the Rock Wren are a prolonged cree-é-¢-é. On our
return home we heard that Boucherville and his five hunters
had returned with nothing for me, and they had not met
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 139
Bell and his companions. We were told also that a few
minutes after our departure the roarings and bellowings
of Buffalo were heard across the river, and that Owen and
two men had been despatched with a cart to kill three fat cows
but zo more ; so my remonstrances about useless slaughter
have not been wholly unheeded. Harris was sorry he had
missed going, and so was I, as both of us could have done
so. The milk of the Buffalo cow is truly good and finely
tasted, but the bag is never large as in our common cattle,
and this is probably a provision of nature to render the
cows more capable to run off, and escape from their pur-
suers. Bell, Provost, and La Fleur returned just before
dinner; they had seen no Bighorns, and only brought
the flesh of two Deer killed by La Fleur, and a young
Magpie. This afternoon Provost skinned a calf that was
found by one of the cows that Owen killed; it was very
young, only a few hours old, but large, and I have taken its
measurements. It is looked upon as a phenomenon, as no
Buffalo cow calves at this season. The calving time is from
about the 1st of February to the last of May. Owen went
six miles from the fort before he saw the cattle; there were
more than three hundred in number, and Harris and I
regretted the more we had not gone, but had been fruit-
lessly hunting for stones. It is curious that while Harris
was searching for Rabbits early this morning, he heard the
bellowing of the bulls, and thought first it was the growling
of a Grizzly Bear, and then that it was the fort bulls, so he
mentioned it tono one. To-morrow evening La Fleur and
two men will go after Bighorns again, and they are not to
return before they have killed one male, at least. This
evening we went a-fishing across the river, and caught ten
good catfish of the upper Missouri species, the sweetest
and best fish of the sort that I have eaten in any part of
the country. Our boat is going on well, and looks pretty
to boot. Her name will be the ‘“‘ Union,” in consequence
of the united exertions of my companions to do all that
140 AUDUBON
could be done, on this costly expedition. The young
Buffaloes now about the fort have begun shedding their
red coats, the latter-colored hair dropping off in patches
about the size of the palm of my hand, and the new hair
is dark brownish black.
August 9, Wednesday. The weather is cool and we are
looking for rain. Squires, Provost, and La Fleur went off
this morning after an early breakfast, across the river for
Bighorns with orders not to return without some of these
wild animals, which reside in the most inaccessible portions
of the broken and lofty clay hills and stones that exist in
this region of the country; they never resort to the low lands
except when moving from one spot to another; they swim
rivers well, as do Antelopes. I have scarcely done any-
thing but write this day, and my memorandum books are
now crowded with sketches, measurements, and descrip-
tions. We have nine Indians, all Assiniboins, among
whom five are chiefs. These nine Indians fed for three
days on the flesh of only a single Swan; they saw no Buf-
faloes, though they report large herds about their village,
fully two hundred miles from here. This evening I caught
about one dozen catfish, and shot a Spermophilus hoodit,
an old female, which had her pouches distended and filled
with the seeds of the wild sunflower of this region. Iam
going to follow one of their holes and describe the same.
August 10, Thursday. Bell and I took a walk after
Rabbits, but saw none. The nine Indians, having re-
ceived their presents, went off with apparent reluctance,
for when you begin to give them, the more they seem to
demand. The horseguards brought in another Spermoph-
ilus hoodit , after dinner we are going to examine one of
their burrows. We have been, and have returned; the
three burrows which we dug were as follows: straight
downward for three or four inches, and gradually becom-
ing deeper in an oblique slant, to the depth of eight or
nine inches, but not more, and none of these holes ex-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS I4I
tended more than six or seven feet beyond this. I was
disappointed at not finding nests, or rooms for stores.
Although I have said much about Buffalo running, and
butchering in general, I have not given the particular
manner in which the latter is performed by the hunters of
this country, — I mean the white hunters, — and I will now
try todo so. The moment that the Buffalo is dead, three
or four hunters, their faces and hands often covered with
gunpowder, and with pipes lighted, place the animal on
its belly, and by drawing out each fore and hind leg, fix
the body so that it cannot fall down again; an incision is
made near the root of the tail, immediately above the root
in fact, and the skin cut to the neck, and taken off in the
roughest manner imaginable, downwards and on both
sides at the same time. The knives are going in all
directions, and many wounds occur to the hands and fin-
gers, but are rarely attended to at this time. The pipe
of one man has perhaps given out, and with his bloody
hands he takes the one of his nearest companion, who has
his own hands equally bloody. Now one breaks in the
skull of the bull, and with bloody fingers draws out the
hot brains and swallows them with peculiar zest; another
has now reached the liver, and is gobbling down enor-
mous pieces of it; whilst, perhaps, a third, who has come
to the paunch, is feeding luxuriously on some —to me—
disgusting-looking offal. But the main business proceeds.
The flesh is taken off from the sides of the boss, or hump
bones, from where these bones begin to the very neck,
and the hump itself is thus destroyed. The hunters give
the name of “hump” to the mere bones when slightly cov-
ered by flesh; and it is cooked, and very good when fat,
young, and well broiled. The pieces of flesh taken from
the sides of these bones are called //ets, and are the best
portion of the animal when properly cooked. The fore-
quarters, or shoulders, are taken off, as well as the hind
ones, and the sides, covered by a thin portion of flesh
142 AUDUBON
called the depoudlle, are taken out. Then the ribs are
broken off at the vertebrz, as well as the boss bones.
The marrow-bones, which are those of the fore and hind
legs only, are cut out last. The feet usually remain at-
tached to these; the paunch is stripped of its covering of
layers of fat, the head and the backbone are left to the
Wolves, the pipes are all emptied, the hands, faces, and
clothes all bloody, and now a glass of grog is often en-
joyed, as the stripping off the skins and flesh of three or
four animals is truly very hard work. In some cases when
no water was near, our supper was cooked without our
being washed, and it was not until we had travelled sev-
eral miles the next morning that we had any opportunity
of cleaning ourselves; and yet, despite everything, we are
all hungry, eat heartily, and sleep soundly. When the
wind is high and the Buffaloes run towards it, the hunter’s
guns very often snap, and it is during their exertions to
replenish their pans, that the powder flies and sticks to
the moisture every moment accumulating on their faces;
but nothing stops these daring and usually powerful men,
who the moment the chase is ended, leap from their
horses, let them graze, and begin their butcher-like work.
August 11, Friday. The weather has been cold and
windy, and the day has passed in comparative idleness
with me. Squires returned this afternoon alone, having
left Provost and La Fleur behind. They have seen only
two Bighorns, a female and her young. It was con-
cluded that, if our boat was finished by Tuesday next,
we would leave on Wednesday morning, but I am by no
means assured of this, and Harris was quite startled at
the very idea. Our boat, though forty feet long, is, I fear,
too small. Mous verrons! Some few preparations for
packing have been made, but Owen, Harris, and Bell are
going out early to-morrow morning to hunt Buffaloes, and
when they return we will talk matters over. The activ-
ity of Buffaloes is almost beyond belief; they can climb
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 143
the steep defiles of the Mauvaises Terres in hundreds of
places where men cannot follow them, and it is a fine
sight to see a large gang of them proceeding along these
defiles four or five hundred feet above the level of the
bottoms, and from which pathway if one of the number
makes a mis-step or accidentally slips, he goes down roll-
ing over and over, and breaks his neck ere the level
ground is reached. Bell and Owen saw a bull about
three years old that leaped a ravine filled with mud and
water, at least twenty feet wide; it reached the middle at
the first bound, and at the second: was mounted on the
opposite bank, from which it kept on bounding, till it
gained the top of quite a high hill. Mr. Culbertson tells
me that these animals can endure hunger in a most ex-
traordinary manner. He says that a large bull was seen
on a spot half way down a precipice, where it had slid,
and from which it could not climb upwards, and either
could not or would not descend; at any rate, it did not
leave the position in which it found itself. The party
who saw it returned to the fort, and, on their way back on
the twenty-fifth day after, they passed the hill, and saw
the bull standing there. The thing that troubles them
most is crossing rivers on the ice; their hoofs slip from
side to side, they become frightened, and stretch their
four legs apart to support the body, and in such situations
the Indians and white hunters easily approach, and stab
them to the heart, or cut the hamstrings, when they be-
come an easy prey. When in large gangs those in the
centre are supported by those on the outposts, and if the
stream is not large, reach the shore and readily escape.
Indians of different tribes hunt the Buffalo in different
ways; some hunt on horseback, and use arrows altogether;
they are rarely expert in reloading the gun in the close
race. Others hunt on foot, using guns, arrows, or both.
Others follow with patient perseverance, and kill them
also. But I will give you the manner pursued by the
144 AUDUBON
Mandans. Twenty to fifty men start, as the occasion
suits, each provided with two horses, one of which is a
pack-horse, the other fit for the chase. They have quiv-
ers with from twenty to fifty arrows, according to the
wealth of the hunter. They ride the pack horse bare-
back, and travel on, till they see the game, when they
leave the pack-horse, and leap on the hunter, and start at
full speed and soon find themselves amid the Buffaloes,
on the flanks of the herd, and on both sides. When
within a few yards the arrow is sent, they shoot at a Buf-
falo somewhat ahead of them, and send the arrow in an
oblique manner, so as to pass through the lights. If the
blood rushes out of the nose and mouth the animal is
fatally wounded, and they shoot at it no more; if not, a
second, and perhaps a third arrow, is sent before this hap-
pens. The Buffaloes on starting carry the tail close in
between the legs, but when wounded they switch it about,
especially if they wish to fight, and then the hunter’s
horse shies off and lets the mad animal breathe awhile.
If shot through the heart, they occasionally fall dead on
the instant; sometimes, if not hit in the right place, a
dozen arrows will not stop them. When wounded and
mad they turn suddenly round upon the hunter, and rush
upon him in such a quick and furious manner that if
horse and rider are not both on the alert, the former is
overtaken, hooked and overthrown, the hunter pitched
off, trampled and gored to death. Although the Buffalo
is such a large animal, and to all appearancea clumsy one,
it can turn with the quickness of thought, and when once
enraged, will rarely give up the chase until avenged for the
wound it has received. If, however, the hunter is expert,
and the horse fleet, they outrun the bull, and it returns
to the herd. Usually the greater number of the gang is
killed, but it very rarely happens that some of them do
not escape. This however is not the case when the ani-
mal is pounded, especially by the Gros Ventres, Black
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 145
Feet, and Assiniboins. These pounds are called “ parks,”
and the Buffaloes are made to enter them in the follow-
ing manner: The park is sometimes round and some-
times square, this depending much on the ground where
it is put up; at the end of the park is what is called a
precipice of some fifteen feet or less, as may be found. It
is approached by a funnel-shaped passage, which like the
park itself is strongly built of logs, brushwood, and pick-
ets, and when all is ready a young man, very swift of
foot, starts at daylight covered over with a Buffalo robe
and wearing a Buffalo head-dress. The moment he sees
the herd to be taken, he bellows like a young calf, and
makes his way slowly towards the contracted part of the
funnel, imitating the cry of the calf, at frequent intervals.
The Buffaloes advance after the decoy; about a dozen
mounted hunters are yelling and galloping behind them,
and along both flanks of the herd, forcing them by these
means to enter the mouth of the funnel. Women and
children are placed behind the fences of the funnel to
frighten the cattle, and as soon as the young man who
acts as decoy feels assured that the game is in a fair way
to follow to the bank or “precipice,” he runs or leaps
down the bank, over the barricade, and either rests, or
joins in the fray. The poor Buffaloes, usually headed
by a large bull, proceed, leap down the bank in haste and
confusion, the Indians all yelling and pursuing till every
bull, cow, and calf is impounded. Although this is done
at all seasons, it is more general in October or November,
when the hides are good and salable. Now the warriors
are all assembled by the pen, calumets are lighted, and
the chief smokes to the Great Spirit, the four points of
the compass, and lastly to the Buffaloes. The pipe is
passed from mouth to mouth in succession, and as soon
as this ceremony is ended, the destruction commences.
Guns shoot, arrows fly in all directions, and the hunters
being on the outside of the enclosure, destroy the whole
VOL. 11.— 10
146 AUDUBON
gang, before they jump over to clean and skin the mur-
dered herd. Even the children shoot small, short arrows
to assist in the destruction. It happens sometimes how-
ever, that the leader of the herd will be restless at the
sight of the precipices, and if the fence is weak will
break through it, and all his fellows follow him, and
escape. The same thing sometimes takes place in the
pen, for so full does this become occasionally that the ani-
mals touch each other, and as they cannot move, the very
weight against the fence of the pen is quite enough
to break it through; the smallest aperture is sufficient,
for in a few minutes it becomes wide, and all the beasts
are seeri scampering over the prairies, leaving the poor
Indians starving and discomfited. Mr. Kipp told me
that while travelling from Lake Travers to the Mandans,
in the month of August, he rode in a heavily laden cart
for six successive days through masses of Buffaloes, which
divided for the cart, allowing it to pass without opposi-
tion. He has seen the immense prairie back of Fort
Clark look black to the tops of the hills, though the
ground was covered with snow, so crowded was it with
these animals; and the masses probably extended much
further. In fact it is zmpossible to describe or even conceive
the vast multitudes of these animals that exist even now,
and feed on these ocean-like prairies.
August 12, Saturday. WUarris, Bell, and Owen went
after Buffaloes; killed six cows and brought them home.
Weather cloudy, and rainy at times. Provost returned
with La Fleur this afternoon, had nothing, but had seen
a Grizzly Bear. The “Union” was launched this even-
ing and packing, etc., is going on. I gave a memoran-
dum to Jean Baptiste Moncrévier of the animals I wish
him to procure for me.
August 13, Sunday. A most beautiful day. About
dinner time I had a young Badger brought to me dead; I
bought it, and gave in payment two pounds of sugar. The
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 147
body of these animals is broader than high, the neck is
powerfully strong, as well as the fore-arms, and strongly
clawed fore-feet. It weighed 84 lbs. Its measurements
were all taken. When the pursuer gets between a Bad-
ger and its hole, the animal’s hair rises, and it at once
shows fight. A half-breed hunter told Provost, who has
just returned from Fort Mortimer, that he was anxious
to go down the river with me, but I know the man and
hardly care to have him. If I decide to take him Mr.
Culbertson, to whom I spoke of the matter, told me my
only plan was to pay him by the piece for what he killed
and brought on board, and that in case he did not turn
out well between this place and Fort Clark, to leave him
there; so I have sent word to him to this effect by Pro-
vost this afternoon. Bell is skinning the Badger, Sprague
finishing the map of the river made by Squires, and the
latter is writing. The half-breed has been here, and the
following is our agreement: “It is understood that Fran-
cois Détaillé will go with me, John J. Audubon, and to
secure for me the following quadrupeds — if possible —
for which he will receive the prices here mentioned, pay-
able at Fort Union, Fort Clark, or Fort Pierre, as may
best suit him.
For each Bighorn male . . . .. . . + $10.00
For a large Grizzly Bear . «. «. 2 we ee) 20.00
Foralarge male Elk . . . . Om: 4 6.00
For a Black-tailed Deer, male or female hae og 6.00
For Red Foxes. . 2. 2 1 ee ew ee 3-00
For small Gray Foxes . . . es ee 3-00
For Badgers. . 1. 6 1 we eh ee ee 2.00
For large Porcupine . . . . - se ee 2.00
Independent of which I agree to furnish him with his
passage and food, he to work as a hand on board. What-
ever he kills for food will be settled when he leaves us,
or, as he says, when he meets the Opposition boat com-
148 AUDUBON
ing up to Fort Mortimer.” He will also accompany us
in our hunt after Bighorns, which I shall undertake,
notwithstanding Mr. Culbertson and Squires, who have
been to the Mauvaises Terres, both try to dissuade me
from what they fear will prove over-fatiguing; but though
my strength is not what it was twenty years ago, I am yet
equal to much, and my eyesight far keener than that of
many a younger man, though that too tells me I am no
longer a youth. .
The only idea I can give in wrtting of what are called
the “Mauvaises Terres” would be to place some thou-
sands of loaves of sugar of different sizes, from quite
small and low, to large and high, all irregularly truncated
at top, and placed somewhat apart from each other. No
one who has not seen these places can form any idea of
these resorts of the Rocky Mountain Rams, or the diffi-
culty of approaching them, putting aside their extreme
wildness and their marvellous activity. They form paths
around these broken-headed cones (that are from three to
fifteen hundred feet high), and run round them at full
speed on a track that, to the eye of the hunter, does not
appear to be more than a few inches wide, but which is,
in fact, from a foot to eighteen inches in width. In some
places there are piles of earth from eight to ten feet high,
or even more, the tops of which form platforms of a hard
and shelly rocky substance, where the Bighorn is often
seen looking on the hunter far below, and standing im-
movable, as if a statue. No one can imagine how they
reach these places, and that too with their young, even
when the latter are quite small. Hunters say that the
young are usually born in such places, the mothers going
there to save the helpless little one from the Wolves,
which, after men, seem to be their greatest destroyers.
The Mauvaises Terres are mostly formed of grayish
white clay, very sparsely covered with small patches of
thin grass, on which the Bighorns feed, but which, to
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 149
all appearance, is a very scanty supply, and there, and
there only, they feed, as not one has ever been seen on
the bottom or prairie land further than the foot of these
most extraordinary hills. In wet weather, no man can
climb any of them, and at such times they are greasy,
muddy, sliding grounds. Oftentimes when a Bighorn
is seen on a hill-top, the hunter has to ramble about for
three or four miles before he can approach within gun-
shot of the game, and if the Bighorn ever sees his en-
emy, pursuit is useless. The tops of some of these hills,
and in some cases whole hills about thirty feet high, are
composed of a conglomerated mass of stones, sand, and
clay, with earth of various sorts, fused together, and hav-
ing a brick-like appearance. In this mass pumice-stone
of various shapes and sizes is to be found. The whole is
evidently the effect of volcanic action. The bases of
some of these hills cover an area of twenty acres or more,
and the hills rise to the height of three or four hundred
feet, sometimes even to eight hundred or a thousand; so
high can the hunter ascend that the surrounding country is
far, far beneath him. The strata are of different colored
clays, coal, etc., and an earth impregnated with a salt
which appears to have been formed by internal fire or
heat, the earth or stones of which I have first spoken in
this account, lava, sulphur, salts of various kinds, oxides
and sulphates of iron; and inthe sand at the tops of some
of the highest hills I have found marine shells, but so
soft and crumbling as to fall apart the instant they were
exposed to the air. I spent some time over various lumps
of sand, hoping to find some perfect ones that would be
hard enough to carry back to St. Louis; but ’t was “love’s
labor lost,” and I regretted exceedingly that only a few
fragments could be gathered. I found globular and oval
shaped stones, very heavy, apparently composed mostly
of iron, weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds; numbers
of petrified stumps from one to three feet in diameter; the
150 AUDUBON
Mauvaises Terres abound with them; they are to be
found in all parts from the valleys to the tops of the hills,
and appear to be principally of cedar. On the sides of
the hills, at various heights, are shelves of rock or stone
projecting out from two to six, eight, or even ten feet, and
generally square, or nearly so; these are the favorite re-
sorts of the Bighorns during the heat of the day, and
either here or on the tops of the highest hills they are to
be found. Between the hills there is generally quite a
growth of cedar, but mostly stunted and crowded close
together, with very large stumps, and between the stumps
quite a good display of grass; on the summits, in some
jew places, there are table-lands, varying from an area
of one to ten or fifteen acres; these are covered with a
short, dry, wiry grass, and immense quantities of flat
leaved cactus, the spines of which often warn the hunter
of their proximity, and the hostility existing between
them and his feet. These plains are not more easily
travelled than the hillsides, as every step may lead the
hunter into a bed of these pests of the prairies. In the
valleys between the hills are ravines, some of which are
not more than ten or fifteen feet wide, while their depth
is beyond the reach of the eye. Others vary in depth
from ten to fifty feet, while some make one giddy to look
in; they are also of various widths, the widest perhaps
a hundred feet. The edges, at times, are lined with
bushes, mostly wild cherry; occasionally Buffaloes make
paths across them, but this is rare. The only safe way to
pass is to follow the ravine to the head, which is usually
at the foot of some hill, and go round. These ravines are
mostly between every two hills, although like every gen-
eral rule there are variations and occasionally places
where three or more hills make only one ravine. These
small ravines all connect with some larger one, the size of
which is in proportion to its tributaries. The large one
runs to the river, or the water is carried off by a subterra-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS ISI
nean channel. In these valleys, and sometimes on the
tops of the hills, are holes, called “sink holes;” these
are formed by the water running in a small hole and work-
ing away the earth beneath the surface, leaving a crust
incapable of supporting the weight of a man; and if an
unfortunate steps on this crust, he soon finds himself in
rather an unpleasant predicament. This is one of the
dangers that attend the hunter in these lands; these holes
eventually form a ravine such as I have before spoken of.
Through these hills it is almost impossible to travel with
a horse, though it is sometimes done by careful manage-
ment, and a correct knowledge of the country. The sides
of the hills are very steep, covered with the earth and
stones of which I have spoken, all of which are quite loose
on the surface; occasionally a bunch of wormwood here
and there seems to assist the daring hunter; for it is no
light task to follow the Bighorns through these lands,
and the pursuit is attended with much danger, as the least
slip at times would send one headlong into the ravines
below. On the sides of these high hills the water has
washed away the earth, leaving caves of various sizes;
and, in fact, in some places all manner of fantastic forms
are made by the same process. Occasionally in the val-
leys are found isolated cones or domes, destitute of vege-
tation, naked and barren. Throughout the Mauvaises
Terres there are springs of water impregnated with salt,
sulphur, magnesia, and many other salts of all kinds.
Such is the water the hunter is compelled to drink, and
were it not that it is as cold as ice it would be almost im-
possible to swallow it. As it is, many of these waters
operate as cathartics or emetics; this is one of the most
disagreeable attendants of hunting in these lands. More-
over, venomous snakes of many kinds are also found here.
I saw myself only one copperhead, and a common garter-
snake. Notwithstanding the rough nature of the coun-
try, the Buffaloes have paths running in all directions,
152 AUDUBON
and leading from the prairies to the river. The hunter
sometimes, after toiling for an hour or two up the side of
one of these hills, trying to reach the top in hopes that
when there he will have for a short distance at least,
either a level place or good path to walk on, finds to his
disappointment that he has secured a point that only
affords a place scarcely large enough to stand on, and he
has the trouble of descending, perhaps to renew his disap-
pointment in the same way, again and again, such is the
deceptive character of the country. I was thus deceived
time and again, while in search of Bighorns. If the
hill does not terminate in a point it is connected with
another hill, by a ridge so narrow that nothing but a Big-
horn can walk on it. This is the country that the Moun-
tain Ram inhabits, and if, from this imperfect description,
any information can be derived, I shall be more than re-
paid for the trouble I have had in these tiresome hills.
Whether my theory be correct or incorrect, it is this:
These hills were at first composed of the clays that I have
mentioned, mingled with an immense quantity of com-
bustible material, such as coal, sulphur, bitumen, etc. ;
these have been destroyed by fire, or (at least the greater
part) by volcanic action, as to this day, on the Black Hills
and in the hills near where I have been, fire still exists;
and from the immense quantities of pumice-stone and
melted ores found among the hills, even were there no
fire now to be seen, no one could doubt that it had, at
some date or other, been there; as soon as this process
had ceased, the rains washed out the loose material, and
carried it to the rivers, leaving the more solid parts as
we now find them; the action of water to this day con-
tinues. As I have said, the Bighorns are very fond of
resorting to the shelves, or ledges, on the sides of the
hills, during the heat of the day, when these places are
shaded; here they lie, but are aroused instantly upon the
least appearance of danger, and, as soon as they have dis-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 153
covered the cause of alarm, away they go, over hill and
ravine, occasionally stopping to look round, and when
ascending the steepest hill, there is no apparent dimi-
nution of their speed. They will ascend and descend
places, when thus alarmed, so inaccessible that it is
almost impossible to conceive how, and where, they find
a foothold. When observed before they see the hunter,
or while they are looking about when first alarmed, are
the only opportunities the hunter has to shoot them; for,
as soon as they start there is no hope, as to follow and
find them is a task not easily accomplished, for where
or how far they go when thus on the alert, heaven only
knows, as but few hunters have ever attempted a chase.
At all times they have to be approached with the greatest
caution, as the least thing renders them on the gud vive.
When not found on these shelves, they are seen on the
tops of the most inaccessible and highest hills, looking
down on the hunters, apparently conscious of their secur-
ity, or else lying down tranquilly in some sunny spot
quite out of reach. As I have observed before, the only
times that these animals can be shot are when on these
ledges, or when moving from one point to another.
Sometimes they move only a few hundred yards, but it
will take the hunter several hours to approach near enough
fora shot, so long are the d@étours he is compelled to make.
I have been thus baffled two or three times. The less
difficult hills are found cut up by paths made by these
animals; these are generally about eighteen inches wide.
These animals appear to be quite as agile as the European
Chamois, leaping down precipices, across ravines, and
running up and down almost perpendicular hills. The
only places I could find that seemed to afford food for
them, was between the cedars, as I have before mentioned;
but the places where they are most frequently found are
barren, and without the least vestige of vegetation. From
the character of the lands where these animals are found,
154 AUDUBON
their own shyness, watchfulness, and agility, it is readily
seen what the hunter must endure, and what difficulties
he must undergo to near these “ Wild Goats.” It is one
constant time of toil, anxiety, fatigue, and danger. Such
the country! Such the animal! Such the hunting!
August 16. Started from Fort Union at 12M. in the
Mackinaw barge “Union.” Shot five young Ducks.
Camped at the foot of a high bluff. Good supper of
Chickens and Ducks.
Thursday, 17th. Started early. Saw three Bighorns,
some Antelopes, and many Deer, fully twenty; one Wolf,
twenty-two Swans, many Ducks. Stopped a short time on
a bar. Mr. Culbertson shot a female Elk, and I killed
two bulls. Camped at Buffalo Bluff, where we found
Bear tracks.
Friday, 18th. Fine. Bell shot a superb male Elk.
The two bulls untouched since killed. Stopped to make an
oar, when I caught four catfish. ‘“ Kayac” is the French
Missourian’s name for Buffalo Bluffs, original French for
Moose; in Assiniboin ‘‘ Tah-Tah,” in Blackfoot “ Sick-e-chi-
choo,” in Sioux “Tah-Tah.” Fifteen to twenty female Elks
drinking, tried to approach them, but they broke and ran
off to the willows and disappeared. We landed and pur-
sued them. Bell shot at one, but did not find it, though it
was badly wounded. These animals are at times unwary,
but at others vigilant, aca and well aware of the
coming of their enemies.
Saturday, 19th. Wolves Resins and bulls roaring,
just like the long continued roll of a hundred drums.
Saw large gangs of Buffaloes walking along the river.
Headed Knife River one and a half miles. Fresh signs of
Indians, burning wood embers, etc. I knocked a cow
down with two balls, and Mr. Culbertson killed her.
Abundance of Bear tracks. Saw a great number of bushes
bearing the berries of which Mrs. Culbertson has given me
a necklace. Herds of Buffaloes on the prairies. Mr. Cul-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 155
bertson killed another cow, and in going to see it ] had a
severe fall over a partially sunken log. Bell killed a doe
and wounded the fawn.
Sunday, 20th. Tamias quadrivittiatus runs up trees;
abundance of them in the ravine, and Harris killed one.
Bell wounded an Antelope. Thousands upon thousands
of Buffaloes; the roaring of these animals resembles the
grunting of hogs, with a rolling sound from the throat.
Mr. C. killed two cows, Sprague killed one bull, and
I made two sketches of it after death. The men killed a
cow, and the bull would not leave her although shot four
times. Stopped by the high winds all this day. Suffered
much from my fall.
Monday, 21st. Buffaloes all over the bars and prairies,
and many swimming; the roaring can be heard for miles.
The wind stopped us again at eight o’clock; breakfasted
near the tracks of Bears surrounded by hundreds of Buf-
faloes. We left our safe anchorage and good hunting-
grounds too soon; the wind blew high, and we were obliged
to land again on the opposite shore, where the gale has
proved very annoying. Bear tracks led us to search for
those animals, but in vain. Collected seeds. Shot at a
Rabbit, but have done nothing. Saw many young and
old Ducks, — Black Mallards and Gadwalls. I shot a bull
and broke his thigh, and then shot at him thirteen times
before killing. Camped at the same place.
Tuesday, 22d. Left early and travelled about twelve
miles. Went hunting Elks. Mr. Culbertson killed a
Deer, and he and Squires brought the meat in on their
backs. I saw nothing, but heard shots which I thought
were from Harris. I ran for upwards of a mile to look for
him, hallooing the whole distance, but saw nothing of him.
Sent three men who hallooed also, but came back without
further intelligence. Bell shot a female Elk and brought
in part of the meat. We walked to the Little Missouri
and shot the fourth bull this trip. We saw many Ducks.
156 AUDUBON
In the afternoon we started again, and went below the
Little Missouri, returned to the bull and took his horns,
etc. Coming back to the boat Sprague saw a Bear; we
went towards the spot; the fellow had turned under the
high bank and was killed in a few seconds. Mr. Culbertson
shot it first through the neck, Bell and I in the body.
Wednesday, 23d, Provost skinned the Bear. No Prairie-
Dogs caught. The wind high and cold. Later two Prairie-
Dogs were shot; their notes resemble precisely those of the
Arkansas Flycatcher. Left this afternoon and travelled
about ten miles. Saw another Bear and closely observed
its movements. We saw several drowned Buffaloes, and
were passed by Wolves and Passenger Pigeons. Camped in
a bad place under a sky with every appearance of rain.
Thursday, 24th. A bad night of wind, very cloudy;
left early, as the wind lulled and it became calm. Passed
“L’Ours qui danse,” travelled about twenty miles, when
we were again stopped by the wind. Hunted, but found
nothing. The fat of our Bear gave us seven bottles of oil.
We heard what some thought to be guns, but I believed it
to be the falling of the banks. Then the Wolves howled
so curiously that it was supposed they were Indian dogs.
We went to bed all prepared for action in case of an
attack; pistols, knives, etc., but I slept very well, though
rather cold.
Friday, 25th. Fair, but foggy, so we did not start early,
I found some curious stones with impressions of shells.
It was quite calm, and we passed the two Riccaree winter
villages. Many Eagles and Peregrine Falcons. Shot
another bull. Passed the Gros Ventre village at noon; no
game about the place. ‘La Main Gauche,” an Assini-
boin chief of great renown, left seventy warriors killed and
thirty wounded on the prairie opposite, the year following
the small-pox. The Gros Ventres are a courageous tribe.
Reached the Mandan village; hundreds of Indians swam to
us with handkerchiefs tied on their heads like turbans.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 157
Our old friend ‘Four Bears” met us on the shore; I
gave him eight pounds of tobacco. He came on board and
went down with us to Fort Clark, which we reached at four
o'clock. Mr, Culbertson and Squires rode out to the
Gros Ventre village with “ Four Bears” after dark, and
returned about eleven; they met with another chief who
curiously enough was called ‘“‘ The Iron Bear.”
Saturday, 26th. Fine, but a cold, penetrating wind.
Started early and landed to breakfast. A canoe passed us
with two men from the Opposition. We were stopped by
the wind for four hours, but started again at three; passed
the Butte Quarré at a quarter past five, followed now by
the canoe, as the two fellows are afraid of Indians, and
want to come on board our boat; we have not room for
them, but will let them travel with us. Landed for the
night, and walked to the top of one of the buttes from
which we had a fine and very extensive view. Saw a herd
of Buffaloes, which we approached, but by accident did not
kill a cow. Harris, whom we thought far off, shot too
soon and Moncrévier and the rest of us lost our chances.
We heard Elks whistling, and saw many Swans. The
canoe men camped close to us.
Sunday, 27th. Started early in company with the
canoe. Saw four Wolves and six bulls, the latter to our
sorrow in a compact group and therefore difficult to
attack. They are poor at this season, and the meat very
rank, but yet are fresh meat. The wind continued high,
but we landed in the weeds assisted by the canoe men, as
we saw a gang of cows. We lost them almost immediately
though we saw their wet tracks and followed them for over
a mile, but then gave up the chase. On returning to the
river we missed the boat, as she had been removed to a
better landing below; so we had quite a search for her.
Mrs. Culbertson worked at the parfléche with Golden
Eagle feathers; she had killed the bird herself. Stopped
by the wind at noon. Walked off and saw Buffaloes, but
158 AUDUBON
the wind was adverse. Bell and Harris, however, killed a
cow, a single one, that had been wounded, whether by shot
or by an arrow no one can tell. We saw a bull on a sand-
bar; the poor fool took to the water and swam so as to
meet us. We shot at him about a dozen times, I shot him
through one eye, Bell, Harris, and Sprague about the head,
and yet the animal made for our boat and came so close
that Mr. Culbertson touched him with a pole, when he turned
off and swam across the river, but acted as if wild or crazy;
he ran on a sand-bar, and at last swam again to the oppo-
site shore, in my opinion to die, but Mr. Culbertson says
he may live for a month. We landed in a good harbor on
the east side about an hour before sundown. Moncrévier
caught a catfish that weighed sixteen pounds, a fine fish,
though the smaller ones are better eating.
Monday, 28th. A gale all night and this morning also.
We are in a good place for hunting, and I hope to have
more tosay anon. The men returned and told us of many
Bear tracks, and four of us started off. Such a walkI do
not remember ; it was awful — mire, willows, vines, holes,
fallen logs; we returned much fatigued and having seen
nothing. The wind blowing fiercely.
Tuesday, 29th. Weavy wind all night. Bad dreams
about my own Lucy. Walked some distance along the
shores and caught many catfish. Two Deer on the other
shore. Cut a cotton-tree to fasten to the boat to break
the force of the waves. The weather has become sultry,
Beavers during the winter oftentimes come down amid the
ice, but enter any small stream they meet with at once.
Apple River, or Creek, was formerly a good place for
them, as well as Cannon Ball River. Saw a Musk-rat this
morning swimming by our barge. Slept on a muddy bar
with abundance of mosquitoes.
Wednesday, 80th. Started at daylight. Mr. Culbertson
and I went off to the prairies over the most infernal
ground I ever saw, but we reached the high prairies by
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 159
dint of industry, through swamps and mire. We saw
two bulls, two calves, and one cow; we killed the cow and
the larger calf, a beautiful young bull; returned to the
boat through the most abominable swamp I ever travelled
through, and reached the boat at one o'clock, thirsty and
hungry enough. Bell and all the men went after the meat
and the skin of the young bull. I shot the cow, but
missed the calf by shooting above it. We started later
and made about ten miles before sunset.
Thursday, 31st. Started early; fine and calm. Saw
large flocks of Ducks, Geese, and Swans; also four
Wolves. Passed Mr. Primeau’s winter trading-house;
reached Cannon Ball River at half-past twelve. No game;
water good-tasted, but warm. Dinner on shore. Saw a
Rock Wren on the bluffs here. Saw the prairie on fire, and
signs of Indians on both sides. Weather cloudy and hot.
Reached Beaver Creek. Provost went after Beavers, but
found none. Caught fourteen catfish. Saw a wonderful
example of the power of the Buffalo in working through
the heavy, miry bottom lands.
Friday, September 1. Hard rain most of the night, and
uncomfortably hot. Left our encampment at eight o’clock.
Saw Buffaloes and landed, but on approaching them found
only bulls; so returned empty-handed to the boat, and
started anew. We landed for the night on a large sand-
bar connected with the mainland, and saw a large gang
of Buffaloes, and Mr. Culbertson and a man went off;
they shot at two cows and killed one, but lost her, as she
fell in the river and floated down stream, and it was dusk.
A heavy cloud arose in the west, thunder was heard, yet
the moon and stars shone brightly. After midnight rain
came on. The mosquitoes are far too abundant for
comfort.
Saturday, September 2. Fine but windy. Went about
ten miles and stopped, for the gale was so severe. No
fresh meat on board. Saw eight Wolves, four white ones.
160 AUDUBON
Walked six miles on the prairies, but saw only three bulls,
The wind has risen to a gale. Saw abundance of Black-
breasted Prairie Larks, and a pond with Black Ducks,
Returned to the pond after dinner and killed four Ducks,
Sunday, $d. Beautiful, calm, and cold. Left early and
at noon put ashore to kill a bull, having no fresh meat on
board. He took the wind and ran off. Touched on a
bar, and I went overboard to assist in pushing off and
found the water very pleasant, for our cold morning had
turned into a hot day. Harris shot a Prairie Wolf. At
half-past four saw ten or twelve Buffaloes. Mr. Culbert-
son, Bell, a canoe man, and I, went after them; the cattle
took to the river, and we went in pursuit; the other canoe
man landed, and ran along the shore, but could not head
them. He shot, however, and as the cattle reached the
bank we gave them a volley, but uselessly, and are again
under way. Bell and Mr. C. were well mired and greatly
exhausted in consequence. No meat for another day.
Stopped for the night at the mouth of the Moreau River.
Wild Pigeons, Sandpipers, but no fish.
Monday, 4th. Cool night. Wind rose early, but a fine
morning. Stopped by the wind at eleven. Mr. Culbert-
son, Bell, and Moncrévier gone shooting. Many signs of
Elk, etc., and flocks of Wild Pigeons. A bad place for
hunting, but good for safety. Found Beaver tracks, and
small trees cut down by them. Provost followed the bank
and found their lodge, which he says is an old one. It is
at present a mass of sticks of different sizes matted to-
gether, and fresh tracks are all around it. To dig them
out would have proved impossible, and we hope to catch
them in traps to-night. Beavers often feed on berries
when they can reach them, especially Buffalo berries
[Shepherdia argentea]. Mr. Culbertson killed a buck,
and we have sent men to bring it entire. The Beavers
in this lodge are not residents, but vagrant Beavers. The
buck was brought in; it is of the same kind as at Fort
“aNOVUdS OVYSI ADT ONIAVUA FY NWONA
TMNOSSIK BHL NO dWVoO
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 161
Union, having a longer tail, we think, than the kind found
East. Its horns were very small, but it is skinned and in
brine. We removed our camp about a hundred yards
lower down, but the place as regards wood is very bad.
Provost and I went to set traps for Beaver; he first cut two
dry sticks eight or nine feet long; we reached the river by
passing through the tangled woods; he then pulled off his
breeches and waded about with a pole to find the depth
of the water, and having found a fit spot he dug away the
mud in the shape of a half circle, placed a bit of willow
branch at the bottom and put the trap on that. He had
two small willow sticks in his mouth; he split an end of
one, dipped it in his horn of castoreum, or “ medicine,”
as he calls his stuff, and left on the end of it a good mass
of it, which was placed in front of the jaws of the trap
next the shore; he then made the chain of the trap se-
cure, stuck in a few untrimmed branches on each side, and
there the business ended. The second one was arranged
in the same way, except that there was no bit of willow
under it. Beavers when caught in shallow water are often
attacked by the Otter, and in doing this the latter some-
times lose their own lives, as they are very frequently
caught in the other trap placed close by. Mr. Culbertson
and Bell returned without having shot, although we heard
one report whilst setting the traps. Elks are very numer-
ous here, but the bushes crack and make so much noise
that they hear the hunters and fly before them. Bell shot
five Pigeons at once. Harris and Squires are both poorly,
having eaten too indulgently of Buffalo brains. We are
going to move six or seven hundred yards lower down, to
spend the night in a more sheltered place. I hope I may
have a large Beaver to-morrow.
Tuesday, 5th. At daylight, after some discussion about
Beaver lodges, Harris, Bell, Provost, and I, with two men,
went to the traps —nothing caught. We now had the
lodge demolished outwardly, namely, all the sticks removed,
VOL. 11.—11
162 AUDUBON
under which was found a hole about two and a half feet in
diameter, through which Harris, Bell, and Moncrévier (who
had followed us) entered, but found nothing within, as the
Beaver had gone to the river. Harris saw it, and also the
people at the boat. I secured some large specimens of
the cuttings used to build the lodge, and a pocketful of the
chips. Before Beavers fell the tree they long for, they
cut down all the small twigs and saplings around. The
chips are cut above and below, and then split off by the
animal; the felled trees lay about us in every direction.
We left our camp at half-past five; I again examined the
lodge, which was not finished, though about six feet in di-
ameter. We saw a Pigeon Hawk giving chase to a Spotted
Sandpiper on the wing. When the Hawk was about to
seize the little fellow it dove under water and escaped.
This was repeated five or six times; to my great surprise
and pleasure, the Hawk was obliged to relinquish the prey.
As the wind blew high, we landed to take breakfast, on a
fine beach, portions of which appeared as if paved by the
hand of man. The canoe men killed a very poor cow,
which had been wounded, and so left alone. The wind fell
suddenly, and we proceeded on our route till noon, when
it rose, and we stopped again. Mr. Culbertson went hunt-
ing, and returned having killed a young buck Elk. Dined,
and walked after the meat and skin, and took the measure-
ments. Returning, saw two Elks driven to the hills by
Mr. Culbertson and Bell. Met Harris, and started a mon-
strous buck Elk from its couch in a bunch of willows; shot
at it while running about eighty yards off, but it was not
touched. Meantime Provost had heard us from our dinner
camp; loading his rifle he came within ten paces, when his
gunsnapped. We yet hope to get this fine animal. Harris
found a Dove’s nest with one young one, and an egg just
cracked by the bird inside; the nest was on the ground,
Curious all this at this late late season, and in a woody
part of the country. Saw a Bat.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 163
Wednesday, 6th. Wind blowing harder. Ransacked the
point and banks both below and above, but saw only two
Wolves; oneadark gray, the largest I have yetseen. Har-
ris shot a young of the Sharp-tailed Grouse; Bell, three
Pigeons; Provost went off to the second point below, about
four miles, after Elks; Sprague found another nest of
Doves on the ground, with very small young. The com-
mon Bluebird was seen, also a Whip-poor-will and a
Night-Hawk. Wind high and from the south.
Thursday, Vth. About eleven o’clock last night the wind
shifted suddenly to northwest, and blew so violently that '
we all left the boatin a hurry. Mrs. Culbertson, with her
child in her arms, made for the willows, and had a shelter
for her babe in a few minutes. Our guns and ammunition
were brought on shore, as we were afraid of our boat
sinking. We returned on board aftera while; but I could
not sleep, the motion making me very sea-sick ; I went
back to the shore and lay down after mending our fire.
It rained hard for about two hours; the sky then became
clear, and the wind wholly subsided, so I went again to the
boat and slept till eight o’clock. A second gale now arose;
the sky grew dark; we removed our boat to a more secure
position, but I fear we are here for another day. Bell shot
a Caprimulgus,; so small that I have no doubt it is the one
found on the Rocky Mountains by Nuttall, after whom I
have named it. These birds are now travelling south.
Mr. Culbertson and I walked up the highest hills of the
prairie, but saw nothing. The river has suddenly risen
two feet, the water rises now at the rate of eight inches in
two and a half hours, and the wind has somewhat moder-
ated. The little Whip-poor-will proves an old male, but it
is now in moult. Left our camp at five, and went down
rapidly to an island four miles below. Mr. Culbertson,
Bell, Harris, and Provost went off to look for Elks, but I
1 Nuttall’s Poor-will, now known as Phalenoptilus nuttalli, which has a
two-syllabled note, rendered “ oh-will” in the text beyond. — E. C.
164 AUDUBON
fear fruitlessly, as I see no tracks, nor do I find any of
their beds. About ten o’clock Harris called me to hear
the notes of the new Whip-poor-will ; we heard two at
once, and the sound was thus: ‘‘ Oh-will, oh-will,’ repeated
often and quickly, as in our common species. The night
was beautiful, but cold.
Friday, 8th. Cloudy and remarkably cold; the river
has risen 634 feet since yesterday, and the water is muddy
and thick. Started early. The effect of sudden rises in
this river is wonderful upon the sand-bars, which are no
sooner covered by a foot or so of water than they at once
break up, causing very high waves to run, through which
no small boat could pass without imminent danger. The
swells are felt for many feet as if small waves at sea.
Appearances of rain. The current very strong; but we
reached Fort Pierre at half-past five, and found all well.
Saturday, 9th. Rain all night. Breakfasted at the fort.
Exchanged our boat for a larger one. Orders found here
obliged Mr. Culbertson to leave us and go to the Platte
River establishment, much to my regret.
Sunday, 10th. Very cloudy. Mr. Culbertson gave me
a parfléche* which had been presented to him by “ L’Ours
de Fer,” the Sioux chief. It is very curiously painted, and
is arecord ofa victory of the Sioux over their enemies,
the Gros Ventres. Two rows of horses with Indians
dressed in full war rig are rushing onwards; small black
marks everywhere represent the horse tracks; round
green marks are shields thrown away by the enemy in
their flight, and red spots on the horses, like wafers, de-
note wounds.
Monday, 11th. Cloudy; the men at work fitting up our
new boat. Rained nearly all day, and the wind shifted to
every point of the compass. Nothing done.
1 A parfleche is a hide, usually a Buffalo bull’s, denuded of hair, dressed
and stretched to the desired shape. All articles made from this hide are
also called parfléche, such as wallets, pouches, etc.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 165
Tuesday, 12th, Partially clear this morning early, but
rained by ten o’clock. Nothing done.
Wednesday, 13th. Rainy again. Many birds were seen
moving southwest. Our boat is getting into travelling
shape. I did several drawings of objects in and about the
fort.
Thursday, 14th. Cloudy and threatening. Mr. Laidlow
making ready to leave for Fort Union, and ourselves for
our trip down the river. Mr. Laidlow left at half-past
eleven, and we started at two this afternoon; landed at the
farm belonging to the fort, and procured a few potatoes,
some corn, and a pig.
Friday, 15th. A foggy morning. Reached Fort George.
Mr. Illingsworth left at half-past ten. Wind ahead, and
we were obliged to stop on this account at two. Fresh
signs of both Indians and Buffaloes, but nothing killed.
Saturday, 16th. Windy till near daylight. Started early;
passed Ebbett’s new island. Bell heard Parrakeets. The
day was perfectly calm. Found Arvicola pennsylvanica.
Landed at the Great Bend for Black-tailed Deer and wood.
Have seen nothing worthy our attention. Squires put up
a board at our old camp the “Six Trees,” which I hope to
see again. The Deer are lying down, and we shall not go
out to hunt again till near sunset. The note ofthe Meadow
Lark here is now unheard. I saw fully two hundred flying
due south. Collected a good deal of the Yucca plant.
Sunday, 17th. We had a hard gale last night with rain
for about an hour. This morning was beautiful; we started
early, but only ran for two hours, when we were forced to
stop by the wind, which blew a gale. Provost saw fresh
signs of Indians, and we were told that there were a few
lodges at the bottom of the Bend, about two miles below
us. The wind is north and quite cold, and the contrast
between to-day and yesterday is great. Went shooting,
and killed three Sharp-tailed Grouse. Left our camp
about three o’clock as the wind abated. Saw ten or twelve
166 AUDUBON
Antelopes on the prairie where the Grouse were. We
camped about a mile from the spot where we landed in
May last, at the end of the Great Bend. The evening calm
and beautiful.
Monday, 18th. The weather cloudy and somewhat
windy. Started early; saw a Fish Hawk, two Gulls, two
White-headed Eagles and abundance of Golden Plovers.
The Sharp-tailed Grouse feeds on rose-berries and the
seeds of the wild sunflower and grasshoppers. Stopped at
twenty minutes past nine, the wind was so high, and warmed
some coffee. Many dead Buffaloes are in the ravines and
on the prairies. Harris, Bell, and Sprague went hunting,
but had no show with such a wind. Sprague outlined a
curious hill. The wind finally shifted, and then lulled
down. Saw Say’s Flycatcher, with a Grosbeak. Saw two
of the common Titlark. Left again at two, with a better
prospect. Landed at sunset on the west side. Signs of
Indians. Wolves howling, and found one dead on the
shore, but too far gone to be skinned; I was sorry, as it
was a beautiful gray one. These animals feed on wild
plums in great quantities. Tried to shoot some Doves for
my Fox and Badger, but without success. Pea-vines very
scarce,
Tuesday, 19th. Dark and drizzly. Did not start until
six. Reached Cedar Island, and landed for wood to use
on the boat. Bell went off hunting. Wind north. Found
no fit trees and left. Passed the burning cliffs and got on
abar. The weather fine, and wind behind us. Wolves
will even eat the frogs found along the shores of this river.
Saw five, all gray. At three o’clock we were obliged to
stop on account of the wind, under a poor point. No
game,
Wednesday, 20th. Wind very high. Tracks of Wild
Cats along the shore. The motion of the boat is so great
it makes me sea-sick, Sprague saw a Sharp-tailed Grouse.
We left at half-past twelve. Saw immense numbers of
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 167
Pin-tailed Ducks, but could not get near them. Stopped
on an island to procure pea-vines for my young Deer, and
found plenty. Our camp of last night was only two miles
and a half below White River. Ran on a bar and were
delayed nearly half an hour. Shot two Blue-winged Teal.
Camped opposite Bijou’s Hill.
Thursday, 21st. Wind and rain most of the night.
Started early. Weather cloudy and cold. Landed to ex-
amine Burnt Hills, and again on an island for pea-vines.
Fresh signs of Indians. Saw many Antelopes and Mule
Deer. At twelve saw a bull on one side of the river,
and in a few moments after a herd of ten cattle on the other
side. Landed, and Squires, Harris, Bell, and Provost have
gone to try to procure fresh meat; these are the first Buf-
faloes seen since we left Fort Pierre. The hunters only
killed one bull; no cows among eleven bulls, and this is
strange at this season. Saw three more bulls in a ravine.
Stopped to camp at the lower end of great Cedar Island at
five o’clock. Fresh signs of Buffaloes and Deer. We cut
some timber for oars. Rain set in early in the evening,
and it rained hard all night.
Friday, 22d. Raining; left at a quarter past eight, with
the wind ahead. Distant thunder. Everything wet and
dirty after a very uncomfortable night. We went down
the river about a mile, when we were forced to come to on
the opposite side by the wind and the rain. Played cards
for a couple of hours. No chance to cook or get hot
coffee, on account of the heavy storm. We dropped down
a few miles and finally camped till next day in the mud,
but managed to make a roaring fire. Wolves in numbers
howling all about us, and Owls hooting also. Still raining
heavily. We played cards till nine o’clock to kill time.
Our boat a quagmire.
Saturday, 23d. A cloudy morning; we left at six o’clock.
Five Wolves were on a sand-bar very near us. Saw Red-
shafted Woodpeckers, and two House Swallows. Have
168 AUDUBON
made a good run of about sixty miles. At four this after-
noon we took in three men of the steamer ‘‘ New Haven”
belonging to the Opposition, which was fast on the bar,
eight miles below. We reached Ponca Island and landed
for the night. At dusk the steamer came up, and landed
above us, and we found Messrs. Cutting and Taylor, and
I had the gratification of a letter from Victor and Johnny,
of July 22d.
Sunday, 24th. Cloudy, windy,and cold. Both the steamer
and ourselves left as soon as we could see. Sawa Wolf on
a bar, and a large flock of White Pelicans, which we took
at first for a keel-boat. Passed the Poncas, L’Eau qui Court,
Manuel, and Basil rivers by ten o’clock.1 Landed just
below Basil River, stopped by wind. Hunted and shot one
Raven, one Turkey Buzzard, and four Wood-ducks. Ripe
plums abound, and there are garfish in the creek. Found
feathers of the Wild Turkey. Signs of Indians, Elks, and
Deer. Provost and the men made four new oars. Went
to bed early.
Monday, 25th. Blowing hard all night, and began raining
before day. Cold, wet, and misty. Started at a quarter
past ten, passed Bonhomme Island at four, and landed for
the night at five, fifteen miles below.
Tuesday, 26th. Cold and cloudy ; started early. Shota
Pelican. Passed Jack’s River at eleven. Abundance of
Wild Geese. Bell killed a young White Pelican. Weather
fairer but coldish. Sprague killed a Goose, but it was lost.
Camped a few miles above the Vermilion River. Harris
saw Raccoon tracks on Basil River.
Wednesday, 27th, Cloudy but calm. Many Wood-ducks,
and saw Raccoon tracks again this morning. Passed the
Vermilion River at half-past seven. My Badger got out
of his cage last night, and we had to light a candle to secure
it. We reached the Fort of Vermilion at twelve, and met
1 Niobrara River; for which, and for others here named, see the previous
note, date of May 20.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 169
with a kind reception from Mr. Pascal. Previous to this
we met a barge going up, owned and commanded by Mr.
Tybell, and found our good hunter Michaux. He asked me
to take him down, and I promised him $20 per month to
St. Louis. We bought two barrels of superb potatoes, two
of corn, and a good fat cow. For the corn and potatoes I
paid no less than $16.00.
Thursday, 28th. A beautiful morning, and we left at
eight. The young man who brought me the calf at Fort
George has married a squaw, a handsome girl, and she is
here with him. Antelopes are found about twenty-five
miles from this fort, but not frequently. Landed fifteen
miles below on Elk Point. Cut up and salted the cow.
Provost and I went hunting, and saw three female Elks, but
the order was to shoot only bucks; a large one started
below us, jumped into the river, and swam across, carrying
his horns flat down and spread on each side of his back;
the neck looked to me about the size of a flour-barrel.
Harris killed a hen Turkey, and Bell and the others saw
plenty but did not shoot, as Elks were the order of the
day. I cannot eat beef after being fed on Buffaloes. Iam
getting an old man, for this evening I missed my footing
on getting into the boat, and bruised my knee and my
elbow, but at seventy and over I cannot have the spring of
seventeen.
Friday, 29th. Rained most of the night, and it is
raining and blowing at present. Crossed the river and
have encamped at the mouth of the Iowa River,! the
boundary line of the Sioux and Omahas. Harris shot a
Wolf. My knee too sore to allow me to walk. Stormy
all day.
Saturday, 30th. Hard rain all night, the water rose four
1 On the south side of the Missouri, in present Nebraska, a short dis-
tance above the mouth of the Big Sioux. This small stream is Roloje Creek
of Lewis and Clark, Ayoway River of Nicollet, appearing by error as “ Nor-
way” and “ Nioway ” Creek on General Land Office maps. — E. C.
’
170 AUDUBON
inches. Found a new species of large bean in the Wild
Turkey. Mosquitoes rather troublesome. The sun shining
by eight o’clock, and we hope for a good dry day. Whip-
poor-wills heard last night, and Night-hawks seen flying.
Saw a Long-tailed Squirrel that ran on the shore at the
cry of our Badger. Michaux had the boat landed to bring
on a superb set of Elk-horns that he secured last week.
Abundance of Geese and Ducks. Weather clouding over
again, and at two we were struck by a heavy gale of wind,
and were obliged to land on the weather shore; the wind
continued heavy, and the motion of the boat was too much
for me, so I slipped on shore and with Michaux made a
good camp, where we rolled ourselves in our blankets and
slept soundly.
Sunday, October 1. The wind changed, and lulled before
morning, so we left at a quarter past six. The skies looked
rather better, nevertheless we had several showers. Passed
the [Big] Sioux River at twenty minutes past eleven.
Heard a Pileated Woodpecker, and saw Fish Crows. Geese
very abundant. Landed below the Sioux River to shoot
Turkeys, having seen a large male on the bluffs. Bell
killed a hen, and Harris two young birds; these will keep
us going some days. Stopped again by the wind opposite
Floyd’s grave; started again and ran about four miles,
when we were obliged to land in a rascally place at twelve
o’clock. Had hail and rain at intervals. Camped at the
mouth of the Omaha River, six miles from the village.
The wild Geese are innumerable. The wind has ceased
and stars are shining.
Monday, 2d. Beautiful but co/d. The water has risen
nine inches, and we travel well. Started early. Stopped
at eight by the wind at a vile place, but plenty of Jerusalem
artichokes, which we tried and found very good. Started
again at three, and made a good run till sundown, when
we found a fair camping-place and made our supper from
excellent young Geese.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 17I
Tuesday, 3d. A beautiful, calm morning; we started
early. Saw three Deer on the bank. A Prairie Wolf
travelled on the shore beside us for a long time before he
found a place to get up on the prairie. Plenty of Sand-
hill Cranes were seen as we passed the Little Sioux River.
Saw three more Deer, another Wolf, two Swans, several
Pelicans, and abundance of Geese and Ducks. Passed
Soldier River at two o’clock. We were caught by a snag
that scraped and tore us a little. Had we been two feet
nearer, it would have ruined our barge. We passed
through a very swift cut-off, most difficult of entrance.
We have run eighty-two miles and encamped at the mouth
of the cut-off, near the old bluffs. Killed two Mallards;
the Geese and Ducks are abundant beyond description.
Brag, Harris’ dog, stole and hid all the meat that had
been cooked for our supper.
Wednesday, 4th. Cloudy and coldish. Left early and
can’t find my pocket knife, which I fear I have lost. We
were stopped by the wind at Cabané Bluffs, about twenty
miles above Fort Croghan; we all hunted, with only fair
results. Saw some hazel bushes, and some black walnuts.
Wind-bound till night, and nothing done.
Thursday, 5th. Blew hard all night, but a clear and
beautiful sunrise. Started early, but stopped by the wind
at eight. Bell, Harris, and Squires have started off for
Fort Croghan. As there was every appearance of rain we
left at three and reached the fort about half-past four.
Found all well, and were most kindly received. We were
presented with some green corn, and had a quantity of
bread made, also bought thirteen eggs from an Indian for
twenty-five cents. Honey bees are found here, and do
well, but none are seen above this place. T had an unex-
pected slide on the bank, as it had rained this afternoon;
and Squires had also one at twelve in the night, when he
and Harris with Sprague came to the boat after having
played whist up to that hour.
172 AUDUBON
Friday, 6th. Some rain and thunder last night. A
tolerable day. Breakfast at the camp, and left at half-
past eight. Our man Michaux was passed over to the
officer’s boat, to steer them down to Fort Leavenworth,
where they are ordered, but we are to keep in company,
and he is to cook for us at night. The whole station here
is broken up, and Captain Burgwin* leaves in a few hours
by land with the dragoons, horses, etc. Stopped at Belle
Vue at nine, and had a kind reception; bought 6 lbs.
coffee, 13 eggs, 2 lbs. butter, and some black pepper.
Abundance of Indians, of four different nations. Major
Miller, the agent, isa good man for this place. Left again
at eleven. A fine day. Passed the Platte and its hun-
dreds of snags, at a quarter past one, and stopped for the
men to dine. The stream quite full, and we saw some
squaws on the bar, the village was in sight. Killed two
Pelicans, but only got one. Encamped about thirty miles
below Fort Croghan. Lieutenant Carleton -supped with
us, and we had a rubber of whist.
Saturday, 7th. Fine night, and fine morning. Started
too early, while yet dark, and got on a bar. Passed
McPherson’s, the first house in the State of Missouri, at
eight o’clock. Bell skinned the young of -Fringilla har-
vist. Lieutenant Carleton came on board to breakfast
with us —a fine companion and a perfect gentleman. In-
dian war-whoops were heard by him and his men whilst
embarking this morning after we left. We encamped at
the mouth of Nishnebottana, a fine, clear stream. Went
to the house of Mr. Beaumont, who has a pretty wife.
We made a fine run of sixty or seventy miles.
Sunday, 8th. Cloudy, started early, and had rain by
eight o’clock. Stopped twice by the storm, and played
cards to relieve the dulness. Started at noon, and ran
till half-past four. The wind blowing hard we stopped
at a good place for our encampment. Presented a plate
1 J. H. K. Burgwin. See a previous note, date of May to.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 173
of the quadrupeds to Lieut. James Henry Carleton,? and
he gave mea fine Black Bear skin, and has promised me
a set of Elk horns. Stopped on the east side of the river
in the evening. Sawa remarkably large flock of Geese
passing southward.
Monday, 9th. Beautiful and calm; started early. Bell
shot a Gray Squirrel, which was divided and given to my
, Fox and my Badger. Squires, Carleton, Harris, Bell,
and Sprague walked across the Bend to the Black Snake
Hills, and killed six Gray Squirrels, four Parrakeets, and
two Partridges. Bought butter, eggs, and some whiskey
for the men; exchanged knives with the lieutenant.
Started and ran twelve miles to a good camp on the In-
dian side.
Tuesday, 10th. Beautiful morning, rather windy; started
early. Great flocks of Geese and Pelicans; killed two of
the latter. Reached Fort Leavenworth at four, and, as
usual everywhere, received most kindly treatment and
reception from Major Morton. Lieutenant Carleton gave
me the Elk horns. Wrote to John Bachman, Gideon B.
Smith, and a long letter home.
Wednesday, 11th. Received a most welcome present of
melons, chickens, bread, and butter from the generous
major. Lieutenant Carleton came to see me off, and we
parted reluctantly. Left at half-past six; weather calm
and beautiful. Game scarce, paw-paws plentiful. Stopped
at Madame Chouteau’s, where I bought three pumpkins.
Stopped at Liberty Landing and delivered the letters of
Laidlow to Black Harris. Reached Independence Land-
ing at sundown; have run sixty miles. Found no letters.
Steamer “ Lebanon” passed upwards at half-past eight.
Thursday, 12th. Beautiful and calm; stopped and
bought eggs, etc., ata Mr. Shivers’, from Kentucky. Ran
1 Of Maine; in 1843 a second lieutenant of the First Dragoons. He
rose during the Civil War to be lieutenant-colonel of the Fourth Cavalry,
and Brevet Major-General of Volunteers; died Jan. 7, 1873.
174 AUDUBON
well to Lexington, where we again stopped for provisions;
ran sixty miles to-day.
Friday, 13th. Heavy white frost, and very foggy.
Started early and ran well. Tried to buy butter at sev-
eral places, but in vain. At Greenville bought coffee.
Abundance of Geese and White Pelicans; many Sand-
hill Cranes. Harris killed a Wood-duck. Passed Grand
River; stopped at New Brunswick, where we bought ex-
cellent beef at 24 cents a pound, but very inferior to Buf-
falo. Camped at a deserted wood yard, after running
between sixty and seventy miles.
Saturday, 14th. A windy night, and after eight days’
good run, I fear we shall be delayed to-day. Stopped by
a high wind at twelve o’clock. We ran ashore, and I
undertook to push the boat afloat, and undressing for the
purpose got so deep in the mud that I had to spend a
much longer time than I desired in very cold water.
Visited two farm houses, and bought chickens, eggs, and
butter; very little of this last. At one place we pro-
cured corn bread. The squatter visited our boat, and we
camped near him. He seemed a good man; was from
North Carolina, and had a fine family. Michaux killed
two Hutchins’ Geese,! the first I ever saw in the flesh.
Ran about twenty miles; steamer “Lebanon” passed us
going downwards, one hour before sunset. Turkeys and
Long-tailed Squirrels very abundant.
Sunday, 15th. Cold, foggy, and cloudy; started early.
Passed Chariton River and village, and Glasgow; bought
bread, and oats for my Deer. Abundance of Geese and
Ducks. Passed Arrow Rock at eleven. Passed Boones-
ville, the finest country on this river; Rocheport, with
high, rocky cliffs; six miles below which we encamped,
having run sixty miles.
Monday, 16th. Beautiful autumnal morning, a heavy.
white frost and no wind. Started early, before six. The
1 Branta hutchinsi,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 175
current very strong. Passed Nashville, Marion, and
steamer “ Lexington” going up. Jefferson City at twelve.
Passed the Osage Riyer and saw twenty-four Deer oppo-
site Smith Landing; camped at sundown, and found
Giraud, the “strong man.” Ran sixty-one miles. Met
the steamer “Satan,” badly steered. Abundance of Geese
and Ducks everywhere.
Tuesday, 17th. Calm and very foggy. Started early
and floated a good deal with the strong current. Saw
two Deer. The fog cleared off by nine o’clock. Passed
the Gasconade River at half-past nine. Landed at Pinck-
ney to buy bread, etc. Buffaloes have been seen mired,
and unable to defend themselves, and the Wolves actually
eating their noses while they struggled, but were event-
ually killed by the Wolves. Passed Washington and
encamped below it at sundown; a good run.
Wednesday, 18th. Fine and calm; started very early.
Passed Mount Pleasant. Landed at St. Charles to pur-
chase bread, etc. Provost became extremely drunk, and
went off by land to St. Louis. Passed the Charbonniére
River, and encamped about one mile below. The steamer
“Tobacco Plant” landed on the shore opposite. Bell and
Harris killed a number of Gray Squirrels.
Thursday, 19th. A heavy white frost, foggy, but calm.
We started early, the steamer after us. Forced by the
fog to stop ona bar, but reached St. Louis at three in
the afternoon. Unloaded and sent all the things to
Nicholas Berthoud’s warehouse. Wrote home.
Left St. Louis October 22, in steamer “ Nautilus” for
Cincinnati.
Reached home at 3 p. m., November 6th, 1843, and
thank God, found all my family quite well.}
1 Audubon’s daughter-in-law, Mrs. V. G. Audubon, writes: “ He returned
on the 6th of November, 1843. It was a bright day, and the whole family,
with his old friend Captain Cummings, were on the piazza waiting for the
carriage to come from Harlem [then the only way of reaching New York by
176 AUDUBON
[CoPIED FROM BELL’s JOURNAL.*]
“ August 2. Started at half-past- seven this morning;
saw several Yellow-legs (Godwits), and some young Blue-
winged Teal in the pond in the first prairie. Shot two
Curlews; saw two very fine male Elks; they were lying
down quite near us, under a bank where they got the wind of
us. The Sharp-tailed Grouse are first-rate eating now, as
they feed entirely on grasshoppers, and berries of different
kinds. Owen climbed a tree to a White-headed: Eagle’s
nest, and drove a young one out, which fell to the ground
and was caught alive, and brought to the fort. Is it not
very remarkable that Eagles of this species should have
their young in the nest at this late season, when in the
Floridas I have shot them of the same size in February?
Shot at a Wolf, which being wounded, went off about ohe
hundred yards, and yelled like a dog; a very remarkable
instance, as all we have killed or wounded, and they have
been many, rarely make any sound, and if they do it is
simply a snapping at their pursuer. As we went up the
Missouri on the 7th instant, I found numbers of Cliff
Swallow’s nests, with the old ones feeding their young.
This is also very late and uncommon at this season. Saw
a Peregrine Falcon feeding its young. La Fleur shot two
bucks of the White-tailed Deer with two shots, and the
meat, which we brought home, proved fat and good. Saw
Beaver tracks, and young Green-winged Teals. We saw
hills impregnated with sulphur and coal, some of them
rail]. There were two roads, and hearing wheels, some ran one way and
some another, each hoping to be the first to see him; but he had left the
carriage at the top of the hill, and came on foot straight down the steepest
part, so that those who remained on the piazza had his first kiss. He
kissed his sons as well as the ladies of the party. He had on a green
blanket coat with fur collar and cuffs; his hair and beard were very long,
and he made a fine and striking appearance. In this dress his son John
painted his portrait.”
1 See page 126.
MRS. AUDUBON, 1854.
FROM A DAGUERREOTYPE,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 177
on fire, and now and then portions of them gave way, by
hundreds of tons at atime. In one place I saw a vein of
coal on fire; we were following a path close to the foot of
a high hill, and at a turn as we looked ahead, we found
the way suddenly blocked by the earth falling down from
above us, and looking up saw a line of coal, or other dark
substance; it was about two feet thick, and about sev-
enty-five feet from the bottom and forty from the top. It
was burning very slowly, and in several places, for about
fifty yards, emitting whitish smoke, something like sul-
phur when burning, and turning the earth or rock above,
quite red, or of a brick color. It would undermine the
earth above, which then fell in large masses, and this was
the cause of the obstruction in the path before us. It
must have been burning for a long time, as it had already
burned some distance along the hill, and hundreds of tons
of earth had fallen. In some places I saw banks of clay
twenty feet high, quite red, hard in some parts, and in
others very scaly and soft, even crumbling to pieces.
Where the fire was burning, the clay was red, varying
from one to three feet in thickness; no appearance of coal
presented itself where the fire had passed along and was
extinguished, but very distinct above the fire, and I have
no doubt there is a small quantity of sulphur mixed with
this coal, or whatever the substance may be. In another
place a short distance from these hills, and in a ravine, I
also saw some red stones which looked very much as if
the corners of a house which had once been there still
remained, with the remnants of two sides yet straight.
These stones varied from six to twenty inches in thick-
ness, and many of them were square and about eighteen
or twenty feet high; we had not time to remain and
examine and measure as carefully as I should have liked
to do.”
VOL. I11.—12
178 AUDUBON
Extracts from Mr. Culbertson’s Journal, kept at Fort
McKenzie, Blackfeet Indian Country in 1834.7
“ Friday, Fune 18. Blood Indians started this morning
to go to war against the Crows. They had not left long,
when the ‘Old Bull’s Backfat’s’ son, with his sister,
brother, and brother-in-law, returned to the fort, saying
they must go back to the camp. After I had given them
tobacco and ammunition they all started, but did not get
more than two miles from the fort before they were all
killed by the Crows, except one, who by some means
leaped on one of the Crow horses and fled to the fort.
The squaw no doubt was taken prisuner, as in the even-
ing I went out and found the bodies of her husband and
brother, but she was not there. On Saturday, the 14th, I
went out and brought in the bodies, and had them de-
cently interred. The young man who had escaped.was
only slightly wounded, and started again for the camp
with three Gros Ventres.
“ Tuesday, 24th. We were all surprised this evening
at the arrival of the squaw who had been taken prisoner,
and who had been carried to the Crow village where she
was kept tied every night until the one in which she made
her escape. During the previous day having it in con-
templation to escape, she took the precaution of hiding a
knife under her garment of skins, but most unfortunately
she went out with one of the Crow squaws, and in stoop-
ing, the knife fell out; this was reported, and as a punish-
ment she was stripped of every particle of clothing, and
when night came was not tied, as it was not imagined she
would leave the cover of the tent. However, she decided
nothing should keep her from availing herself of the only
1 These extracts, as well as the descriptions by Mr. Denig and Mr. Cul-
bertson, of Forts Union and McKenzie, which follow, are in Audubon’s
writing, at the end of one of the Missouri River journals, and are given as
descriptions of the life and habitations of those early western pioneers and
fur-traders.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 179
opportunity she might ever have; she started with adso-
lutely no covering of any kind, and in this plight she trav-
elled across the prairies, almost without stopping to rest,
and with little food, for four days and three nights ; unfor-
tunately the weather was unusually cold for the season,
as wellas wet. She arrived at the fort in a most wretched
and pitiable condition, but greatly to the joy and consola-
tion of her relations and friends. She said that after her
arrival at the Crow village, they made her dance with the
scalps of her brother and husband tied to her hair, and
clothed in the bloody shirt of the latter. On Wednes-
day, 25th, a band of four hundred Crows arrived with
the intention of taking the fort by stratagem if they
could get the opportunity; but they failed in this, as I
would not allow one of them inside the fort, or to come
within firing distance of their arms. They used every
artifice in their power to persuade me to let in a few of
them to smoke the pipe of peace, assuring me that their
intentions were good, and that they loved the white peo-
ple. Finding all this of no avail, they brought their best
horses to give to me, for which they did not wish to re-
ceive anything more than the privilege of letting some of
them come in; but all this was in vain, as I was well
aware of their treacherous intentions. I divided my men
in the two bastions, with orders to fire upon the first one
that might approach during the night, and warned them
of my having given such orders, telling them that I did
not wish to strike the first blow, but that if they com-
menced they would go off with small numbers, and sore
hearts. There was an American with them who now
told me of their intentions, and that they were deter-
mined to take the fort. I sent them word by him that
we were ready for them if they thought themselves able
to do so, and to come and try; but when they saw our
cannon pointed towards them, they were not so anxious
to make arush. On the 26th the Crows made another
180 AUDUBON
attempt to get in, but after a long and persuasive talk
they found that it would not do. They then crossed the
river and came on the high bank opposite to the fort, and
fired upon us, and while some of them were yet crossing
the river I let loose a cannon ball among them, which, if
it did no harm, made them move at a quick pace, and
after a while they all went off, leaving us without food of
any sort; but fortunately on Monday the 3oth, a party of
Blood Indians came in from the Crows with fifteen horses
and considerable meat. The Crows had taken all our
horses shortly before, and promised to return them ina
few days if I would let them in. I was also informed
that they had even brought pack-horses to carry off the
goods from the fort after having accomplished the de-
struction of the building and the massacre of ourselves.”
From these extracts the nature of the Indians of these
regions may be exemplified a thousand times better, de-
cause true, than by all the trashy stuff written and pub-
lished by Mr. Catlin.
DESCRIPTION OF FORT UNION
By EDWIN T. DENIG. Juty 30, 1843
“FORT UNION, the principal and handsomest trading-post
on the Missouri River, is situated on the north side, about
six and a half miles above the mouth of the Yellowstone
River; the country around it is beautiful, and well chosen
for an establishment of the kind. The front of the fort is
but a few steps, say twenty-five, from the bank of the
Missouri. Behind the fort is a prairie with an agreeable
ascent to the commencement of the bluffs, about one and
a half miles in width, and two in length, surrounded at the
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 181
borders with high hills, or bluffs. Above and below, at
the distance of two hundred yards commence the points,
or bottoms, of the Missouri, which contain great quantities
of cottonwood, ash, and elm, supplying the fort with fuel,
boat and building timber. The fort itself was begun in
the fall of 1829, under the superintendence of Kenneth
McKenzie, Esq., an enterprising and enlightened Scotch-
man, and now a well known and successful merchant in .
St. Louis. As the immense deal of work about such an
undertaking had but few men to accomplish it, it was not
wholly completed till after the expiration of four years,
and indeed since then has been greatly improved by the
other gentlemen who subsequently took charge of the
fort. The plan of the fort is laid nearly due north and
south, fronting 220 feet and running back 240 feet. This
space is enclosed by pickets or palisades of twenty feet
high, made of large hewn cottonwood, and founded upon
stone. The pickets are fitted into an open framework in
the inside, of sufficient strength to counterbalance their
weight, and sustained by braces in the form of an X,
which reaches in the inside from the pickets to the frame,
so as to make the whole completely solid and secure,
from either storm or attack. On the southwest and north-
east corners, are bastions, built entirely out of stone, and
measuring 24 feet square, over 30 feet high, and the wall
three feet thick; this is whitewashed. Around the tops of
the second stories are balconies with railings, which serve
for observatories, and from the tops of the roofs are two
flag-staffs 25 feet high, on which wave the proud Eagle of
America. Two weathercocks, one a Buffalo bull, the
other an Eagle, complete the outsides. In the interior of
the northeast bastion are placed opposite their port-holes
one three-pounder iron cannon and one brass swivel, both
mounted, and usually kept loaded, together with a dozen
muskets in case of a sudden attack from the Indians.
Balls, cartridges, and other ammunition are always in readi-
182 AUDUBON
ness for the use of the same. The contents of the south-
east bastion are similar to those of the other, with the
exception of the cannon, having but one small swivel.
These and other preparations render the place impregnable
to any force without, not furnished with artillery. The prin-
cipal building in the establishment, and that of the gentle-
man in charge, or Bourgeois, is now occupied by Mr.
Culbertson, one of the partners of the Company. It is
78 feet front by 24 feet depth, and a story and a half high.
The front has a very imposing appearance, being neatly
weather-boarded, and painted white, and with green win-
dow-shutters; it is roofed with shingle, painted red to pre-
serve the wood. In the roof in front are four dormer
windows, which serve to give light to the attic. The piazza
in front adds much to the comfort and appearance, the
posts are all turned, and painted white. It serves as a
pleasant retreat from the heat of the day, and is a refresh-
ing place to sleep at night when mosquitoes are plenty.
Mr. Audubon, the naturalist, now here upon scientific
researches, together with his secretary, Mr. Squires, prefer
this hard bed to the more luxurious comforts of feathers
and sheets. The interior of this building is handsomely
papered and ornamented with portraits and pictures, and
portioned off in the following manner. Mr. Culbertson
has the principal room, which is large, commodious, and
well-furnished ; from it he has a view of all that passes
within the fort. Next to this is the office, which is
devoted exclusively to the business of the Company, which
is immense. This department is now under my super-
vision (viz., E. T. Denig). These two rooms occupy
about one-half the building. In the middle is a hall,
eight feet wide, which separates these rooms from the
other part. In this is the mess-room, which is nearly
equal in size to that of Mr. Culbertson. Here the Bour-
geois, taking his seat at the head of the table, attends to
its honors, and serves out the /uxusies this wilderness
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 183
produces to his visitors and clerks, who are seated in their
proper order and rank. The mechanics of the fort eat at
the second table. Adjoining this room is the residence
of Mr. Denig. In the upper story are at present located
Mr. Audubon and his suite. Here from the pencils of
Mr. Audubon and Mr. Sprague emanate the splendid
paintings and drawings of animals and plants, which are
the admiration of all; and the Indians regard them as
marvellous, and almost to be worshipped. In the room
next to this is always kept a selection of saddlery and
harness, in readiness for rides of pleasure, or for those
rendered necessary for the protection of the horses which
, are kept on the prairie, and which suffer from frequent
‘depredations on the part of the Indians, which it is the
duty of the men at the fort to ward off as far as possible.
The next apartment is the tailor’s shop, so placed as to
be out of the way of the Indian visitors as much as pos-
sible, who, were it at all easy of access, would steal some
of the goods which it is necessary to have always on hand.
So much for the principal house. On the east side of the
fort, extending north and south, is a building, on range,
all under one roof, 127 ft. long by 25 ft. deep, and used
for the following purposes. A small room at the north
end for stores and luggage; then the retail store, in which
is kept a fair supply of merchandise, and where all white
persons buy or sell. The prices of all goods are fixed by
a tariff or stationary value, so that no bargaining or cheat-
ing is allowed; this department is now in charge of Mr.
Larpenteur. Adjoining this is the wholesale warehouse,
in which is kept the principal stock of goods intended for
the extensive trade; this room is 57 ft. in length. Next
is a small room for the storage of meat and other sup-
plies. At the end is the press room, where all robes,
furs, and peltries are stored. The dimensions extend to
the top of the roof inside, which roof is perfectly water-
proof. It will contain from 2800 to 3000 packs of Buf-
184 AUDUBON
falo robes. All this range is very strongly put together,
weather-boarded outside, and lined with plank within. It
has also cellar and garret. Opposite this, on the other
side of the fort enclosure, is a similar range of buildings
119 ft. long by 21 ft. wide, perhaps not quite so strongly
built, but sufficiently so to suit all purposes. The height
of the building is in proportion to that of the pickets;
it is one large story high, and shingle-roofed. This
is partitioned off into six different apartments of nearly
equal size. The first two are appropriated to the use of
the clerks who may be stationed at the post. The next
is the residence of the hunters, and the remaining three
the dwellings of the men in the employ of the Company.
An ice-house 24 by 21 ft. is detached from this range, and”
is well filled with ice during the winter, which supply
generally lasts till fall. Here is put all fresh meat in
the hot weather, and the fort in the summer season is usu-
ally provisioned for ten days. The kitchen is behind the
Bourgeois’ house on the north side, and about two steps
from the end of the hall, —so situated for convenience in
carrying in the cooked victuals to the mess-room. Two
or three cooks are usually employed therein, at busy
times more. The inside frame-work of the fort, which
sustains the pickets, forms all around a space about eight
feet wide described by the braces or X, and about fifteen
feet high. A balcony is built on the top of this, having
the summit of the X for its basis, and is formed of sawed
plank nailed to cross beams from one brace to another.
This balcony affords a pleasant walk all round the inside
of the fort, within five feet of the top of the pickets; from
here also is a good view of the surrounding neighborhood,
and it is well calculated for a place of defence. It is a
favorite place from which to shoot Wolves after nightfall,
and for standing guard in time of danger. The openings
that would necessarily follow from such a construction,
under the gallery, are fitted in some places with small
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 185
huts or houses. Behind the kitchen there are five of such
houses, leaving at the same time plenty of space between
them and the other buildings. The first of these is a
stable for Buffalo calves, which are annually raised here,
being caught during the severe storms of winter; the sec-
ond a hen-house, well lined, plastered, and filled with
chickens; third, a very pleasant room intended as an art-
ist’s work-room, fourth, a cooper’s shop, and then the
milk house and dairy. Several houses of the same kind
and construction are also built on the west and south
sides; one contains coal for the blacksmith, and ten
stables, in all 117 ft. long, and ro ft. wide, with space
enough to quarter fifty horses. These are very useful, as
the Company have always a number of horses and cattle
here. These buildings, it will be understood, do not inter-
fere with the Area or Parade of the fort, and are hardly
noticed by a casual observer, but occupy the space under
the balcony that would otherwise be useless and void.
Fifty more of the same kind could be put up without in-
truding upon any portion of the fort used for other pur-
poses. On the front side, and west of the gate, is a house
50 by 21 feet, which, being divided into two parts, one half
opening into the fort, is used as a blacksmith’s, gun-
smith’s, and tinner’s shop; the other part is used as a
reception-room for Indians, and opens into the passage,
which is made by the double gate. There are two large
outside gates to the fort, one each in the middle of the
front and rear, and upon the top of the front one is a
painting of a treaty of peace between the Indians and
whites executed by J. B. Moncrévier, Esq. These gates
are 12 ft. wide, and 14 ft. high. At the front there is an
inside gate of the same size at the inner end of the Indian
reception room, which shuts a passage from the outside
gate of 32 ft. in length, and the same width as the gate;
the passage is formed of pickets. The outside gate can
be left open, and the inside one closed, which permits the
186 AUDUBON
Indians to enter the reception room without their having
any communication with the fort. Into this room are
brought all trading and war parties, until such time as
their business is ascertained; there is also behind this
room a trade shop, and leading into it a window through
which the Indians usually trade, being secure from rain
or accident; there is also another window through the
pickets to the outside of the fort, which is used in trad-
ing when the Indians are troublesome, or too numerous.
The Powder Magazine is perhaps the best piece of work,
as regards strength and security, that could be devised
for a fort like this. The dimensions are 25 by 18 ft.; it
is built out of stone, which is a variety of limestone with
a considerable quantity of sand in its composition. The
walls are 4 ft. thick at the base, and increasing with the
curve of the arch become gradually thicker as they rise,
so that near the top they are about 6 ft. in thickness.
The inside presents a complete semicircular arch, which
is covered on the top with stones and gravel to the depth
of 18 inches. The whole is covered with a shingle roof
through which fire may burn yet with no danger to the
powder within. There are two doors, one on the out-
side, the other a few feet within; the outer one is covered
with tin. There are several other small buildings under
the balcony, which are used for harness, tool-houses, meat,
etc. The space behind the warehouse between that and
the pickets, being free from buildings, affords a good
horse yard, and some shelter to the horses in bad weather.
The area of the fort within the fronts of the houses is
189 ft. long, and 141 ft. wide. In the centre of this
arises a flag-staff 63 ft. high. This is surrounded at the
base by a railing and panel work in an octagonal form,
enclosing a portion of ground 12 ft. in diameter, in which
are planted lettuce, radishes, and cress, and which presents
at the same time a useful and handsome appearance. By
the side of this stands a mounted four-pounder iron can-
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 187
non. This flag-staff is the glory of the fort, for on high,
seen from far and wide, floats the Star Spangled Banner, an
immense flag which once belonged to the United States
Navy, and gives the certainty of security from dangers,
rest to the weary traveller, peace and plenty to the fa-
tigued and hungry, whose eyes are gladdened by the sight
of it on arriving from the long and perilous voyages usual
in this far western wild. It is customary on the arrivals
and departures of the Bourgeois, or of the boats of
gentlemen of note, to raise the flag, and by the firing of
the cannon show them a welcome, or wish them a safe
arrival at their point of destination. When interest and
affection are as circumscribed as here, they must neces-
sarily be more intense, and partings are more regretted,
being accompanied by dangers to the departing friends,
and meetings more cordial, those dangers having been
surmounted. The casualties of the country are common
to all, and felt the more by the handful, who, far from
civilization, friends, or kindred, are associated in those
risks and excitements which accrue from a life among
savages. About two hundred feet east of Fort Union is
an enclosure about 150 ft. square, which is used for hay
and other purposes. Two hundred and fifty good cart-loads
of hay are procured during the summer and stacked up in
this place for winter use of horses and cattle, the winter
being so severe and long, and snow so deep that little
food is to be found for them on the prairies at that sea-
son. There are, at present, in this place thirty head of
cattle, forty horses, besides colts, and a goodly number
of hogs. A garden on a small scale is attached to the
‘old fort’ as it is called, which supplies the table with
peas, turnips, radishes, lettuce, beets, onions, etc. The
large garden, half a mile off and below the fort, contains
one and a half acres, and produces most plentiful and ex-
cellent crops of potatoes, corn, and every kind of vege-
table, but has not been worked this year. In the summer
188 AUDUBON
of 1838, Mr. Culbertson had from it 520 bushels of pota-
toes, and as many other vegetables as he required for the
use of the fort. Rainy seasons prove most favorable in
this climate for vegetation, but they rarely occur. It is
indeed pleasant to know that the enterprising men who
commenced, and have continued with untiring persever-
ance, the enlargement of the Indian trade, and labored
hard for the subordination, if not civilization, of the In-
dians, should occasionally sit down under their own vine
and fig-tree, and enjoy at least the semblance of living
like their more quiet, though not more useful brothers in
the United States.”
FORT McKENZIE
By ALEXANDER CULBERTSON, Esq. AvucusT 7, 1843
“THE American Fur Company, whose untiring persever-
ance and enterprise have excited the wonder and admira-
tion of many people, both in this and other countries, and
who have already acquired a well-earned fame for their
labors among the aborigines of this wilderness, and who
are now an example of the energy of the American people,
had, until the year 1832, no stations among the Blackfeet,
Piegans, Blood Indians, or Gros Ventres de Prairie, these
tribes being so hostile and bloodthirsty as to make the
trading, or the erecting of a fort among them too danger-
ous to be attempted. At last, however, these dangers
and difficulties were undertaken, commenced, and sur-
mounted, and Fort McKenzie was erected in the very
heart of these tribes. The fort was begun in 1832, under
the superintendence of David D. Mitchell, then one of the
clerks of the Company, now U. S. Superintendent of
Indian Affairs. The fort was completed by me, Alexander
Culbertson, then a clerk of the Company, now one of the
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 189
partners. During the first year, owing to the exigencies
of the occasion, a temporary, though substantial fort was
erected, which, however, served to protect the daring few
who undertook and accomplished the perilous task. To
those who are quietly sitting by their firesides in the heart
of civilized life, enjoying all its luxuries, pleasures, and
comforts, and who are far removed from the prairie land
and the red men, the situation of this party can hardly be
pictured. They were surrounded by dangers of all kinds,
but, more especially from the tribes of Indians before
mentioned. Two thousand lodges of Blackfeet were near
them, waiting only until an opportunity should offer to
satisfy their thirst for blood, to fall upon and kill them.
Apart from this tribe the others were loitering around
them for the same purpose; add to this, privations, fatigues,
hardships, and personal ills which have to be encountered
in a country like this. All, however, was met coura-
geously; undaunted by appearances, unintimidated by
threats, not unmanned by hardships and fatigues, they
pushed ahead, completed the fort, and at last accom-
plished their object of establishing a trade with the tribes
above mentioned; and they now enjoy a comparative
peace, and are living upon fairly friendly terms with their
late most violent enemies. During the following year
another fort was commenced and completed, and retained
its former name of Fort McKenzie, being named after
Kenneth McKenzie, Esq., one of the partners of the Com-
pany. The fort is situated on the north side of the
Missouri, about six miles above the mouth of the Maria,
and about forty miles below the ‘Great Falls’ of the
Missouri, on a beautiful prairie, about fifteen feet above
the highest-water mark, and about 225 feet from the river.
The prairie rises gradually from the water’s edge to the
hills in the rear, about half a mile from the river. It is
about a mile long, terminating at a ‘céte qui trompe de
Yeau’ on the lower end, and in a point at the upper end,
190 AUDUBON
formerly heavily covered with timber, but now entirely
destitute. Opposite the fort is a high perpendicular bank
of black clay, rising from the river to the height of 150
feet; from this all that takes place within the walls of the
fort can be seen, which would seem to have rendered the
placing of the fort in such a position extremely inju-
dicious. But not through carelessness was this done; it is
simply the sole place in this section of country, near the
river, where a fort can be built, as the land is so rough
and uneven as to render the erection of a fort at any
other spot zmpossible. From this bank little or no danger
is apprehended, as the river is about one hundred yards
wide, and a ball fired by the Indians from this height,
and at this distance, with the weapons that they have,
would be incapable of doing any execution. Timber in
this country has become very scarce; points which a few
years ago were covered with heavy forests of the different
kinds of wood of the district have by some law of nature
become entirely destitute, especially a point below the
island called by the voyageurs the ‘Grand Isle’ (which
is situated at the commencement of the Mauvaises
Terres ), where it has dwindled to a few scattering cotton-
woods and box elders; and this is the only wood now to
be found in this section of the country between ‘ Grand
Isle’ and the ‘Great Falls’ of the Missouri. It is with
the greatest difficulty and economy that from the little
wood to be found the fort is supplied with the necessary
fuel; this is dealt out as a ration, allowing a certain
quantity to each room, sufficient, however, to do the cook-
ing, and warm the inmates. At all times, except when
serving the ration, the wood is kept closely locked. This
is one of the privations of the country, and, indeed the
country affords very little which adds to the comfort of
the trader who makes these wilds his home, except such
as can be procured from the wild animals. Three sides
of the fort are built of pickets of hewn cottonwood,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 191
squared, placed close together, eighteen feet long, planted
three feet deep in the earth, leaving fifteen feet above
ground, The pickets are connected at the top by a
strong piece pinned to them. The fourth side, facing
the northeast, is built of pickets framed in wooden sills
lying in the ground, similar to those at Fort Union.
The fort is two hundred feet square, ranging north and
south and facing south. On the northeast and southwest
corners are bastions built of cottonwood timber, ball proof,
rising about eight feet above the pickets, twenty feet square
and divided into two stories. In each bastion is a cannon,
loaded muskets, cartridges, balls, and every requisite ne-
cessary to prevent and repel any attack that may take place,
and which is hourly expected, from the surrounding tribes
of Indians. In each bastion are port and loop holes for
the cannon and muskets, and these command the four
sides of pickets, and an extensive range over the prairie.
Along the rear line of pickets, and about twenty-five feet
from them, is the principal range of buildings in the fort.
These are occupied by the Bourgeois, clerks, and inter-
preters. It is divided into three apartments; the principal
room, with every comfort that this dreary place affords,
belongs to the Bourgeois and is twenty feet square; and
here, to partially remove the exnuz of dull times, is a
library of such books as time and opportunity have per-
mitted the dwellers in the fort to collect; this is at the
command of those who choose to ‘drive dull care away,’
and contains a little of everything, science, history, poetry,
and fiction. Adjoining this room is a hall or passage
eight feet wide, running from front to rear of the building,
with a door opening into the Bourgeois’s room, another
opening into the clerk’s room; the clerk’s room is also
used as a mess-room and is the same size as that of the
Bourgeois, Adjoining the clerk’s room is the one be-
longing to the interpreters; it is twenty-four by twenty feet
and is also used as a council room, and reception room for
192 AUDUBON
the chiefs that may arrive at the fort. Zhe chiefs only are
admitted within the walls; not that any danger is appre-
hended now from them, but to prevent any trouble that
might possibly occur were numbers permitted to enter.
The house is of cottonwood logs, with a plank roof cov-
ered with earth, chimneys of mud, two windows and
doors in the Bourgeois’s room, one each in the other
rooms. The interior is ceiled and walled with plank. In
the Bourgeois’s room are two doors made of pine plank
which was sawed in the Rocky Mountains. The house is
75 by 20 ft. Most of the buildings in the fort are made
ina similar manner. Above the three rooms described is
a garret extending the whole length of the building.
About three feet back of this edifice is the kitchen, a
neat building twenty feet square, in which everything be-
longing to this most important and useful apartment is
to be found, always in good order, clean and bright, as it
is the imperative duty of the cook, or person in charge, to
have all connected with this department in perfect order.
From this room a// persons are excluded, unless duty or
business requires them to be there. Adjoining this, on the
same line north, is a house of the same dimensions as the
kitchen, which is used for salting and preserving tongues,
one of the delicacies of the civilized world; when not thus
used it answers the purpose of a wash-house. In these
buildings are bedrooms occupied by the persons having
charge of these departments. Extending along the west
line of pickets, and about three feet from them, leaving a
space between the range and the Bourgeois’s house is a line
of buildings divided in four apartments; one used for a
blacksmith’s and tinner’s shop, another for a carpenter's
shop, one for the tailor, and the other for the men. In
the square formed by the pickets and ends of the Bour-
geois’s and men’s houses, is a yard for sawing timber, a
quantity of which is necessarily required about the fort.
A house running from the south bastion to the passage,
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 193
twenty-four feet square, is used as a reception room for
war and trading parties; a door leads from this to the
passage formed by the double gates, thereby cutting off
all communication with the interior of the fort. In this
room all parties are received by the interpreter, who is
always ready to smoke and talk with the Indians. Next
to this room is a passage formed by the double gates, and
two parallel lines of pickets extending inwards, making the
passage about thirty feet long and twelve wide; at the ends
are two large gates, about twelve feet wide and the same
height. Opposite the room last described is a similar one
20 by 15 ft.,in which the Indians bring their robes to trade.
Next this is a trade store, where are kept goods, trinkets,
etc., to be traded with the Indians. The trading is done
through a window or wicket two feet square, and a foot
thick, strongly hinged to the picket; this opening is at
the command of the trader, who can open or close it, as
the Indians may appear friendly or otherwise, thereby
completely cutting off, if necessary, all communication be-
tween the Indians and the trade store; and it is through
this opening ov/y that trade is carried on. Next this is a
room twenty-four feet square, where all goods obtained
from the Indians are placed as soon as the trade is fin-
ished; and adjoining the trade shop is a room, between it
and the pickets, about ten feet square, with a window and
door opening into the trade shop, with a chimney, fire-
place, and stove used only for warming the trader when off
duty, or when awaiting the arrival of Indians. Along the
east line of pickets, and about forty feet from them, is
another range of buildings, about a hundred feet long and
twenty deep, divided into five apartments. The first
three are for storing packs of robes, furs, peltries, etc., and
will hold eighteen hundred packs of robes; the fourth
room is a retail store, 15 by 20 ft., in which is always a
good assortment of stores, the prices fixed by a regular
tariff, so no cheating is possible. All whites buy and sell
VOL. 11.— 138
194 AUDUBON
here. Fifth, is the wholesale warehouse, in which. are
boxes, bales, and all goods kept in quantity till required.
Within a few feet of this, and northeast, is the meat house,
twenty-four feet square, in which all meat traded from the
Indians is kept till needed for use. Near the meat house
south is a powder magazine, a hole dug in the ground ten
feet square, walled with timber to the surface, covered
with a timber roof four feet above the surface in the centre,
and this is covered to the depth of three feet with earth;
in the roof is an outer door three feet square, opening
upon another of the same size; this is so arranged that in
case of fire the whole can be covered in a few minutes, and
rendered fire-proof. In the southeast corner is a large
barn, 60 by 50 ft., capable of containing sufficient hay for all
the cattle and horses during the long, cold, tedious winters
of this country. Adjoining is a range of large and warm
stables for the horses of the fort, and some extra ones if
required, providing them with a good shelter from the
piercing cold and severe storms. Extending from the
stables is a range of small buildings used for keeping sad-
dlery, harness, boat-rigging, tools, etc., thereby providing
‘a place for everything,’ and it is required that every-
thing shall be in its place. Over this is a gallery extend-
ing along this line of pickets, answering the purposes of a
promenade, observatory, guard station, and place of de-
fence. In the southeast corner in front of the barn is a
yard 30 by 60 ft., used for receiving carts, wagons, wood,
and so forth. At the end of the yard in the rear of the
dry-goods warehouse is an ice house, that will contain
nearly forty loads of ice; meat placed here will keep sev-
eral days in the heat of summer, and thus save the hunter
from a daily ride over the burning prairies. The stock
belonging to the fort consists of thirty to forty horses, ten
or twelve cattle, and a number of hogs. Fort McKenzie
boasts of one of the most splendid Durham bulls that can
be found in the United States or Territories. The area in
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS 195
front of the buildings is about a hundred feet square; from
the centre rises a flag-staff fifty feet high; from this wave
the glorious folds of the starry banner of our native land,
made more beautiful by its situation in the dreary wilder-
ness around it. The wanderer, as he sees the bright folds
from afar, hails them with gladness, as it means for him a
place of safety. No sight is more welcome to the voya-
geur, the hunter, or the trapper. That flag cheers all
who claim it as theirs, and it protects all, white men or
red. Here in the wilderness all fly to it for refuge, and
depend on it for security. Upon the arrival or departure
of the Bourgeois, men of note, or arrival and departure of
the boats, the flag is raised, and salutes fired. Here,
where but few are gathered together, undying attachments
are formed, a unanimity of feeling exists, to be found per-
haps only in similar situations. When the hour of parting
comes it is with regret, for amid the common dangers, so
well known, none know when the meeting again will be,
and when the hour of meeting comes, the joy is honest
and unfeigned that the dangers are safely surmounted.
Such is Fort McKenzie, such are its inmates. Removed
as they are from civilization and its pleasures, home and
friends, they find in each other friends and brothers:
friends that forsake not in the hour of danger, but cling
through all changes; brothers in feeling and action, and
‘though there be many, in heart they are one.’”
EPISODES
EPISODES?
THESE Episodes were introduced in the letterpress of the first three vol-
umes of the “ Ornithological Biographies,” but are not in the octavo edition
of the “ Birds of America,” and I believe no entire reprint of them has been
made before. So far as possible they have been arranged chronologically.
Louisville, in Kentucky. 1808. The Florida Keys, No. 1. 1832.
The Ohio. 1810. The Florida Keys, No. 2. 1832.
Fishing in the Ohio. 1810, The Turtlers. 1832.
A Wild Horse. 1811. The Form of the Waters. 1833.
Breaking up of the Ice. 1811. Journey in New Brunswick and Maine.
The Prairie. 1812. 1833.
The Regulators. A Moose Hunt. 1833.
The Earthquake. 1812. Labrador. 1833.
The Hurricane. 1814. The Eggers of Labrador. 1833.
Colonel Boone. 1815. The Squatters of Labrador. 1833.
Natchez in 1820. Cod-Fishing. 1833.
The Lost Portfolio. 1820. A Ball in Newfoundland. 1833.
The Original Painter. 1821. The Bay of Fundy. 1833.
The Cougar. 1821. A Flood.
The Runaway. 1821. The Squatters of the Mississippi.
A Tough Walk fora Youth. 1822, Improvements in the Navigation of the
Hospitality in the Woods. 1822. Mississippi.
Niagara. 1824. Kentucky Sports.
Meadville. 1824. The Traveller and the Pole-cat.
The Burning of the Forests. 1824. Deer-Hunting.
A Long Calm at Sea. 1826. The Eccentric Naturalist.
Still Becalmed. 1826. Scipio and the Bear.
Great Egg Harbor. 1829. A Kentucky Barbecue.
The Great Pine Swamp. 1829. A Raccoon Hunt in Kentucky.
The Lost One. 1832. The Pitting of Wolves.
The Live-Oakers. 1832. The Opossum.
Spring Garden, 1832. A Maple-Sugar Camp.
Death of a Pirate. 1832. The White Perch.
Wreckers of Florida. 1832. The American Sun-Perch,
St. John’s River, in Florida. 1832. My Style of drawing Birds,
1 One episode has been added, —‘‘My Style of drawing Birds,” — and three have been
omitted, that on Bewick being in the “ Journal of England and France,” and the others not of
general interest.
EPISODES
LOUISVILLE IN KENTUCKY
OUISVILLE in Kentucky has always been a favorite
place of mine. The beauty of its situation on the
banks of La Belle Riviere, just at the commencement of
the famed rapids, commonly called the Falls of the Ohio,
had attracted my notice, and when I removed to it, im-
mediately after my marriage, I found it more agreeable
than ever. The prospect from the town is such that it
would please even the eye of a Swiss. It extends along
the river for seven or eight miles, and is bounded on the
opposite side by a fine range of low mountains, known by
the name of the Silver Hills. The rumbling sound of the
waters as they tumble over the rock-paved bed of the
rapids is at all times soothing to the ear. Fish and game
are abundant. But, above all, the generous hospitality of
the inhabitants, and the urbanity of their manners, had
induced me to fix upon it as a place of residence; and I
did so with the more pleasure when I found that my wife
was as much gratified as myself by the kind attentions
which were shown to us, utter strangers as we were, on our
arrival.
No sooner had we landed, and made known our inten-
tion of remaining, than we were introduced to the prin-
cipal inhabitants of the place and its vicinity, although we
had not brought a single letter of introduction, and could
not but see, from their unremitting kindness, that the
Virginian spirit of hospitality displayed itself in all the
200 AUDUBON
words and actions of our newly formed friends. I wish
here to name those persons who so unexpectedly came
forward to render our stay among them agreeable, but
feel at a loss with whom to begin, so equally deserving are
they of our gratitude. The Croghans, the Clarks (our
great traveller included), the Berthouds, the Galts, the
Maupins, the Tarascons, the Beals, and the Booths, form
but a small portion of the long list which I could give.
The matrons acted like mothers to my wife, the daughters
proved agreeable associates, and the husbands and sons
were friends and companions to me. If I absented myself
on business, or otherwise, for any length of time, my wife
was removed to the hospitable abode of some friend in the
neighborhood until my return, and then, kind reader, I
was several times obliged to spend a week or more with
these good people before they could be prevailed upon to
let us return to our own residence. We lived for two years
at Louisville, where we enjoyed many of the best pleasures
which this life can afford; and whenever we have since
chanced to pass that way, we have found the kindness of
our former friends unimpaired.
During my residence at Louisville, much of my time
was employed in my ever favorite pursuits. I drew and
noted the habits of everything which I procured, and my
collection was daily augmenting, as every individual who
carried a gun always sent me such birds or quadrupeds
as he thought might prove useful to me. My portfolios
already contained upwards of two hundred drawings.
Dr. W. C. Galt being a botanist, was often consulted by
me, as well as his friend, Dr. Ferguson. Mr. Gilly drew
beautifully, and was fond of my pursuits. So was my
friend, and now relative, N. Berthoud. As I have already
said, our time was spent in the most agreeable manner,
through the hospitable friendship of our acquaintance.
One fair morning I was surprised by the sudden en-
trance into our counting-room of Mr. Alexander Wilson,
EPISODES 201
the celebrated author of the “ American Ornithology,” of
whose existence I had never until that moment been ap-
prised. This happened in March, 1810. How well do I
remember him, as he walked up to me! His long, rather
hooked nose, the keenness of his eyes, and his prominent
cheek bones, stamped his countenance with a peculiar
character. His dress, too, was of a kind not usually seen
in that part of the country, —a short coat, trousers, anda
waistcoat of gray cloth. His stature was not above the
middle size. He had two volumes under his arm, and as
he approached the table at which I was working, I thought
I discovered something like astonishment in his counte-
nance. He, however, immediately proceeded to disclose
the object of his visit, which was to procure subscriptions
for his work. He opened his books, explained the nature
of his occupations, and requested my patronage.
I felt surprised and gratified at the sight of his volumes,
turned over a few of the plates, and had already taken a
pen to write my name in his favor, when my partner, rather
abruptly, said to me in French, ‘My dear Audubon, what
induces you to subscribe to this work? Your drawings
are certainly far better, and again, you must know as
much of the habits of American birds as this gentlemen.”
Whether Mr. Wilson understood French or not, or if the
suddenness with which I paused disappointed him, I can-
not tell; but I clearly perceived he was not pleased. Van-
ity and the encomiums of my friend prevented me from
subscribing. Mr. Wilson asked me if I had many draw-
ings of birds. I rose, took down a large portfolio, laid it
on the table, and showed him, as I would show you, kind
reader, or any other person fond of such subjects, the
whole of the contents, with the same patience with which
he had shown me his own engravings.
His surprise appeared great, as he told me he never had
the most distant idea that any other individual than him-
self had been engaged in forming such a collection. He
202 AUDUBON
asked me if it was my intention to publish, and when I
answered in the negative, his surprise seemed to increase.
And, truly, such was not my intention; for until long after,
when I met the Prince of Musignano in Philadelphia, I had
not the least idea of presenting the fruits of my labors to
the world. Mr. Wilson now examined my drawings with
care, asked if I should have any objections to lending him
a few during his stay, to which I replied that I had none;
he then bade me good-morning, not, however, until I had
made an arrangement to explore the woods in the vicinity
with him, and had promised to procure for him some birds
of which I had drawings in my collection, but which he
had never seen.
It happened that he lodged in the same house with us,
but his retired habits, I thought, exhibited either a strong
feeling of discontent or a decided melancholy. The
Scotch airs which he played sweetly on his flute made me
melancholy too, and I felt for him. I presented him to
my wife and friends, and seeing that he was all enthusiasm,
exerted myself as much as was in my power to procure
for him the specimens which he wanted. We hunted to-
gether, and obtained birds which he had never before seen;
but, reader, I did not subscribe to his work, for, even at
that time, my collection was greater than his. Thinking
that perhaps he might be pleased to publish the results of
my researches, I offered them to him, merely on condition
that what I had drawn, or might afterwards draw and send
to him, should be mentioned in his work as coming from
my pencil. I, at the same time, offered to open a corres-
pondence with him, which I thought might prove beneficial
to us both. He made no reply to either proposal, and be-
fore many days had elapsed, left Louisville, on his way to
New Orleans, little knowing how much his talents were
appreciated in our little town, at least by myself and my
friends.
Some time elapsed, during which I never heard of him,
EPISODES 203
or of his work. At length, having occasion to go to Phil-
adelphia, I, immediately after my arrival there, inquired
for him, and paid him a visit. He was then drawing a
White-headed Eagle. He received me with civility, and
took me to the exhibition rooms of Rembrandt Peale, the
artist, who had then portrayed Napoleon crossing the
Alps. Mr. Wilson spoke not of birds nor drawings. Feel-
ing, as I was forced to do, that my company was not agree-
able, I parted from him; and after that I never saw him
again. But judge of my astonishment sometime after,
when, on reading the thirty-ninth page of the ninth volume
of “American Ornithology,” I found in it the following
paragraph : —
“ March 23, 1810. J bade adieu to Louisville, to which
place I had four letters of recommendation, and was taught
to expect much of everything there; but neither received
one act of civility from those to whom I was recommended,
one subscriber nor one new bird; though I delivered my
letters, ransacked the woods repeatedly, and visited all the
characters likely to subscribe. Science or literature has
not one friend in this place.”
THE OHIO
WHEN my wife, my eldest son (then an infant), and myself
were returning from Pennsylvania to Kentucky, we found
it expedient, the waters being unusually low, to provide
ourselves with a sézff, to enable us to proceed to our abode
at Henderson. I purchased a large, commodious, and
light boat of that denomination. We procured a mat-
tress, and our friends furnished us with ready prepared
viands. We had two stout negro rowers, and in this
trim we left the village of Shippingport, in expectation
of reaching the place of our destination in a very few
days.
204 AUDUBON
It was inthe month of October. The autumna] tints
already decorated the shores of that queen of rivers, the
Ohio. Every tree was hung with long and flowing fes-
toons of different species of vines, many loaded with
clustered fruits of varied brilliancy, their rich bronzed
carmine mingling beautifully with the yellow foliage,
which now predominated over the yet green leaves, re-
flecting more lively tints from the clear stream than ever
landscape painter portrayed, or poet imagined.
The days were yet warm. The sun had assumed the
rich and glowing hue which at that season produces the
singular phenomenon called there the “Indian Summer.”
The moon had rather passed the meridian of her grandeur.
We glided down the river, meeting no other ripple of the
water than that formed by the propulsion of our boat.
Leisurely we moved along, gazing all day on the grandeur
and beauty of the wild scenery around us.
Now and then a large catfish rose to the surface of the
water, in pursuit of a shoal of fry, which, starting simul-
taneously from the liquid element like so many silver
arrows, produced a shower of light, while the pursuer
with open jaws seized the stragglers, and, with a splash
of his tail, disappeared from our view. Other fishes we
heard, uttering beneath our bark a rumbling noise, the
strange sound of which we discovered to proceed from the
white perch, for on casting our net from the bow, we
caught several of that species, when the noise ceased for
a time.
Nature, in her varied arrangements, seems to have felt
a partiality towards this portion of our country. As the
traveller ascends or descends the Ohio, he cannot help
remarking that alternately, nearly the whole length of the
river, the margin, on one side, is bounded by lofty hills
and a rolling surface, while on the other, extensive plains
of the richest alluvial land are seen as far as the eye can
command the view. Islands of varied size and form
EPISODES 205
rise here and there from the bosom of the water, and the
winding course of the stream frequently brings you to
places where the idea of being on a river of great length
changes to that of floating on a lake of moderate extent.
Some of these islands are of considerable size and value;
while others, small and insignificant, seem as if intended
for contrast, and as serving to enhance the general inter-
est of the scenery. These little islands are frequently
overflowed during great freshets or floods, and receive at
their heads prodigious heaps of drifted timber. We fore-
saw with great concern the alterations that cultivation
would soon produce along those delightful banks.
As night came, sinking in darkness the broader portions
of the river, our minds became affected by strong emo-
tions, and wandered far beyond the present moments.
The tinkling of bells told us that the cattle which bore
them were gently roving from valley to valley in search
of food, or returning to their distant homes. The hoot-
ing of the Great Owl, or the muffled noise of its wings,
as it sailed smoothly over the stream, were matters of in-
terest to us; so was the sound of the boatman’s horn, as
it came winding more and more softly from afar. When
daylight returned, many songsters burst forth with echo-
ing notes, more and more mellow to the listening ear.
Here and there the lonely cabin of a squatter struck the
eye, giving note of commencing civilization. The cross-
ing of the stream by a Deer foretold how soon the hills
would be covered with snow.
Many sluggish flatboats we overtook and passed; some
laden with produce from the different head-waters of the
small rivers that pour their tributary streams into the
Ohio; others, of less dimensions, crowded with emigrants
from distant parts, in search of a new home. Purer
pleasures I never felt; nor have you, reader, I ween, un-
less indeed you have felt the like, and in such company.
The margins of the shores and of the river were, at this
206 AUDUBON
season, amply supplied with game. A Wild Turkey, a
Grouse, or a Blue-winged Teal, could be procured in a
few moments; and we fared well, for, whenever we pleased
we landed, struck up a fire, and provided as we were with
the necessary utensils, procured a good repast.
Several of these happy days passed, and we neared our
home, when, one evening, not far from Pigeon Creek (a
small stream which runs into the Ohio from the State of
Indiana), a loud and strange noise was heard, so like the
yells of Indian warfare, that we pulled at our oars, and
made for the opposite side as fast and as quietly as pos-
sible. The sounds increased, we imagined we heard cries
of “murder;” and as we knew that some depredations had
lately been committed in the country by dissatisfied par-
ties of aborigines, we felt for a while extremely uncom-
fortable. Ere long, however, our minds became more
calmed, and we plainly discovered that the singular up-
roar was produced by an enthusiastic set of Methodists,
who had wandered thus far out of the common way for
the purpose of holding one of their annual camp-meetings,
under the shade of a beech forest. Without meeting with
any other interruption, we reached Henderson, distant
from Shippingport, by water, about two hundred miles.
When I think of these times,! and call back to my
mind the grandeur and beauty of those almost uninhab-
ited shores; when I picture to myself the dense and lofty
summits of the forests, that everywhere spread along the
hills and overhung the margins of the stream, unmo-
lested by the axe of the settler; when I know how dearly
purchased the safe navigation of that river has been, by
the blood of many worthy Virginians; when I see that no
longer any aborigines are to be found there, and that the
vast herds of Elk, Deer, and Buffaloes which once pas-
tured on these hills, and in these valleys, making for them-
selves great roads to the several salt-springs, have ceased
1 This was in 1810 or 1811.
EPISODES 207
to exist; when I reflect that all this grand portion of our
Union, instead of being in a state of nature, is now more
or less covered with villages, farms, and towns, where the
din of hammers and machinery is constantly heard; that
the woods are fast disappearing under the axe by day, and
the fire by night; that hundreds of steamboats are gliding
to and fro, over the whole length of the majestic river,
forcing commerce to take root and to prosper at every
spot; when I see the surplus population of Europe com-
ing to assist in the destruction of the forest, and trans-
planting civilization into its darkest recesses; when I
remember that these extraordinary changes have all taken
place in the short period of twenty years, I pause, won-
der, and although I know all to be fact, can scarcely be-
lieve its reality.
Whether these changes are for the better or for the
worse, I shall not pretend to say; but in whatever way my
conclusions may incline, I feel with regret that there are
on record no satisfactory accounts of the state of that por-
tion of the country, from the time when our people first
settled in it. This has not been because no one in
America is able to accomplish such an undertaking.
Our Irvings and our Coopers have proved themselves
fully competent for the task. It has more probably been
because the changes have succeeded each other with such
rapidity as almost to rival the movements of their pens.
However, it is not too late yet; and I sincerely hope that
either or both of them will ere long furnish the genera-
tions to come with those delightful descriptions which
they are so well qualified to give, of the original state of
a country that has been so rapidly forced to change her
form and attire under the influence of increasing popula-
tion. Yes, I hope to read, ere I close my earthly career,
accounts from those delightful writers of the progress of
civilization in our Western Country. They will speak of
the Clarks, the Croghans, the Boones, and many other men
208 AUDUBON
of great and daring enterprise. They will analyze, as it
were, into each component part, the country as it once
existed, and will render the picture, as it ought to be,
immortal.
FISHING IN THE OHIO
Ir is with mingled feelings of pleasure and regret that
I recall to my mind the many pleasant days I have
spent on the shores of the Ohio. The visions of former
years crowd on my view, as I picture to myself the fer-
tile soil and genial atmosphere of our great western gar-
den, Kentucky, and view the placid waters of the fair
stream that flows along its western boundary. Methinks
I am now on the banks of the noble river. Twenty years
of my life have returned to me; my sinews are strong,
and the “bowspring of my spirit is not slack;” bright
visions of the future float before me, as I sit on a grassy
bank, gazing on the glittering waters. Around me are
dense forests of lofty trees and thickly tangled under-
growth, amid which are heard the songs of feathered
choristers, and from whose boughs hang clusters of glow-
ing fruits and beautiful flowers. Reader, I am very
happy. But now the dream has vanished, and here I am
in the British Athens, penning an episode for my Orni-
thological Biography, and having before me sundry well-
thumbed and weather-beaten folios, from which I expect to
be able to extract some interesting particulars respecting
the methods employed in those days in catching catfish.
But before entering on my subject I will present you
with a brief description of the place of my residence on
the banks of the Ohio. When I first landed at Hender-
son in Kentucky, my family, like the village, was quite
small. The latter consisted of six or eight houses, the
former of my wife, myself, and a young child. Few as
EPISODES 209
the houses were, we fortunately found one empty. It was
a log cabin, not a log house; but as better could not be
had, we were pleased. Well, then, we were located.
The country around was thinly peopled, and all purchas-
able provisions rather scarce; but our neighbors were
friendly, and we had brought with us flour and bacon-
hams. Our pleasures were those of young people not
long married, and full of life and merriment; a single
smile from our infant was, I assure you, more valued by
us than all the treasure of a modern Crceesus would have
been. The woods were amply stocked with game, the
river with fish; and now and then the hoarded sweets of
the industrious bees were brought from some hollow tree
to our little table. Our child’s cradle was our richest
piece of furniture, our guns and fishing-lines our most
serviceable implements, for although we began to culti-
vate a garden, the rankness of the soil kept the seeds we
planted far beneath the tall weeds that sprung up the first
year. I had then a partner, a “man of business,”’ and
there was also with me a Kentucky youth, who much pre-
ferred the sports of the forest and river to either day-book
or ledger. He was naturally, as I may say, a good woods-
man, hunter, and angler, and, like me, thought chiefly of
procuring supplies of fish and fowl. To the task accord-
ingly we directed all our energies.
Quantity as well as quality was an object with us, and
although we well knew that three species of catfish ex-
isted in the Ohio, and that all were sufficiently good, we
were not sure as to the best method of securing them.
We determined, however, to work on a large scale, and
immediately commenced making a famous “trot-line.”
Now, reader, as you may probably know nothing about
this engine, I shall describe it to you.
A trot-line is one of considerable length and thickness,
both qualities, however, varying according to the extent
of water, and the size of the fish you expect to catch. As
voL. 1—14
210 AUDUBON
the Ohio, at Henderson, is rather more than half a mile
in breadth, and as catfishes weigh from one to an hun-
dred pounds, we manufactured a line which measured
about two hundred yards in length, as thick as the little
finger of some fair one yet in her teens, and as white as
the damsel’s finger well could be, for it was wholly of
Kentucky cotton, just, let me tell you, because that sub-
stance stands the water better than either hemp or flax.
The main line finished, we made a hundred smaller ones,
about five feet in length, to each of which we fastened a
capital hook of Kirby and Co.’s manufacture. Now for
the bait!
It was the month of May. Nature had brought abroad
myriads of living beings; they covered the earth, glided
through the water, and swarmed inthe air. The catfish
is a voracious creature, not at all nice in feeding, but one
who, like the Vulture, contents himself with carrion when
nothing better can be had. A few experiments proved to
us that, of the dainties with which we tried to allure them
to our hooks, they gave a decided preference, at that sea-
son, to /zve toads. These animals were very abundant
about Henderson. They ramble or feed, whether by in-
stinct or reason, during early or late twilight more than
at any other time, especially after a shower, and are un-
able to bear the heat of the sun’s rays for several hours
before and after noon. We have a good number of these
crawling things in America, particularly in the western
and southern parts of the Union, and are very well sup-
plied with frogs, snakes, lizards, and even crocodiles,
which we call alligators; but there is enough of food for
them all, and we generally suffer them to creep about, to
leap or to flounder as they please, or in accordance with
the habits which have been given them by the great Con-
ductor of all.
During the month of May, and indeed until autumn, we
found an abundant supply of toads. Many “fine ladies,”
EPISODES 211
no doubt, would have swooned, or at least screamed and
gone into hysterics, had they seen one of our baskets
filled with these animals, all alive and plump. Fortu-
nately we had no tragedy queen or sentimental spinster at
Henderson. Our Kentucky ladies mind their own affairs,
and seldom meddle with those of others farther than to do
all they can for their comfort. The toads, collected one
by one, and brought home in baskets, were deposited in a
barrel for use. And now that night is over, and as it
is the first trial we are going to give our trot-line, just
watch our movements from that high bank beside the
stream. There sit down under the large cotton-wood tree.
You are in no danger of catching cold at this season.
My assistant follows me with a gaff hook, while I carry
the paddle of our canoe; a boy bears on his back a hun-
dred toads as good as ever hopped. Our line—oh, I
forgot to inform you that we had set it last night, but
without the small ones you now see on my arm. Fasten-
ing one end to yon sycamore, we paddled our canoe, with
the rest nicely coiled in the stern, and soon reached its
extremity, when I threw over the side the heavy stone
fastened to it as a sinker. All this was done that it
might be thoroughly soaked, and without kinks or snarls
in the morning. Now, you observe, we launch our light
bark, the toads in the basket are placed next to my feet
in the bow; I have the small lines across my knees
already looped at the end. Nat, with the paddle, and
assisted by the current, keeps the stern of our boat
directly down stream; and David fixes by the skin of the
back and hind parts, the living bait to the hook. I hold
the main line all the while, and now, having fixed one
linelet to it, over goes the latter. Can you see the poor
toad kicking and flouncing in the water? “No?” —well,
Ido. You observe at length that all the lines, one after
another, have been fixed, baited, and dropped. We now
return swiftly to the shore. ‘
212 AUDUBON
“What a delightful thing is fishing!” have I more than
once heard some knowing angler exclaim, who, with “the
patience of Job,” stands or slowly moves along some rivu-
let twenty feet wide, and three or four feet deep, with a
sham fly to allure a trout, which, when at length caught,
weighs half a pound. Reader, I never had such patience.
Although I have waited ten years, and yet see only three-
fourths of the “ Birds of America” engraved, although some
of the drawings of that work were patiently made so long
ago as 1805, and although I have to wait with patience
two years more before I see the end of it, I never could
hold a line or a rod for many minutes, unless I had — not
a “nibble” but a hearty bite, and could throw the fish at
once over my head on the ground. No, no—if I fish for
trout, I must soon give up, or catch as I have done in
Pennsylvania’s Lehigh, or the streams of Maine, fifty or
more in a couple of hours. But the trot-line is in the
river, and there z¢ may patiently wait, until I -visit it
towards night. Now I take up my gun and note-book,
and accompanied by my dog, intend to ramble through
the woods until breakfast. Who knows but I may shoot
a turkey or a deer? It is barely four o'clock, and see
what delightful mornings we have at this season in
Kentucky!
Evening has returned. The heavens have already
opened their twinkling eyes, although the orb of day has
yet scarcely withdrawn itself from our view. How calm
is the air! The nocturnal insects and quadrupeds are
abroad; the Bear is moving through the dark cane-brake,
the land Crows are flying towards their roosts, their aquatic
brethren towards the interior of the forests, the Squirrel
is barking his adieu, and the Barred Owl glides silently
and swiftly from his retreat to seize upon the gay and
noisy animal. The boat is pushed off from the shore;
the main line is in my hands; now it shakes, surely some
fish have been hooked. Hand over hand I proceed to the
EPISODES 213
first hook. Nothing there! but now I feel several jerks,
stronger and more frequent than before. Several hooks I
pass; but see, what a fine catfish is twisting round and
round the little line to which he is fast! Nat, look to
your gaff — hook him close to the tail. Keep it up, my
dear fellow!—there now, we have him. More are on,
and we proceed. When we have reached the end many
goodly fishes are lying in the bottom of our skiff. New |
bait has been put on, and, as we return, I congratulate
myself and my companions on the success of our efforts;
for there lies fish enough for ourselves and our neighbors.
A trot-line at this period was perfectly safe at Hender-
son, should I have allowed it to remain for weeks at a
time. The navigation was mostly performed by flat-
bottomed boats, which during calm nights floated in the
middle current of the river, so that the people on board
could not observe the fish that had been hooked. Nota
single steamer had as yet ever gone down the Ohio; now
and then, it is true, a barge or a keel-boat was propelled
by poles and oars, but the nature of the river is such at
that place, that these boats when ascending were obliged
to keep near the Indiana shore, until above the landing
of the village (below which I always fixed my lines),
when they pulled across the stream.
Several species or varieties of catfish are found in the
Ohio, namely, the Blue, the White, and the Mud Cats,
which differ considerably in their form and color, as well
as in their habits. The Mud Cat is the best, although
it seldom attains so yreat a size as the rest. The Blue
Cat is the coarsest, but when not exceeding from four
to six pounds it affords tolerable eating. The White
Cat is preferable to the last, but not so common; and
the Yellow Mud Cat is the best and rarest. Of the
Blue kind some have been caught that weighed a hun-
dred pounds. Such fish, however, are looked upon as
monsters.
214 AUDUBON
The form in all the varieties inclines to the conical,
the head being disproportionately large, while the body
tapers away to the root of the tail. The eyes, which are
small, are placed far apart, and situated as it were on the
top of the forehead, but laterally. Their mouth is wide
and armed with numerous small and very sharp teeth,
while it is defended by single-sided spines, which, when
the fish is in the agonies of death, stand out at right
angles, and are so firmly fixed as sometimes to break be-
fore you can loosen them. The catfish has also feelers
of proportionate length, apparently intended to guide its
motions over the bottom, whilst its eyes are watching the
objects passing above.
Trot-lines cannot be used with much success unless
during the middle stages of the water. When very low,
it is too clear, and the fish, although extremely voracious,
will rarely risk its life for a toad. When the waters are
rising rapidly, your trot-lines are likely to be carried
away by one of the numerous trees that float in the
stream. A “happy medium” is therefore best.
When the waters are rising fast and have become
muddy, a single line is used for catching catfish. It is
fastened to the elastic branch of some willow several feet
above the water, and must be twenty or thirty feet in
length. The entrails of a Wild Turkey, or a piece of
fresh venison furnish good bait; and if, when you visit
your line the next morning after you have set it, the
water has not risen too much, the swinging of the willow
indicates that a fish has been hooked, and you have only
to haul the prize ashore.
One evening I saw that the river was rising at a great
rate, although it was still within its banks. I knew that
the white perch were running, that is, ascending the
river from the sea, and, anxious to have a tasting of that
fine fish, I baited a line with a crayfish, and fastened it
to the bough of a tree. Next morning as I pulled in the
EPISODES 215
line, it felt as if fast at the bottom, yet on drawing it
slowly I found that it came. Presently I felt a strong
pull, the line slipped through my fingers, and next in-
stant a large catfish leaped out of the water. I played
it for a while until it became exhausted, when I drew it
ashore. It had swallowed the hook, and I cut off the line
close to its head. Then passing a stick through one of
the gills, J and a servant tugged the fish home. On cut-
ting it open, we, to our surprise, found in its stomach a
fine white perch, dead, but not in the least injured. The
perch had been lightly hooked, and the catfish, after
swallowing it, had been hooked in the stomach, so that,
although the instrument was small, the torture caused by
it no doubt tended to disable the catfish. The perch we
ate, and the cat, which was fine, we divided into four
parts, and distributed among our neighbors. My most
worthy friend and relative, Nicholas Berthoud, Esq., who
formerly resided at Shippingport in Kentucky, but now
in New York, a better fisher than whom I never knew,
once placed a trot-line in the basin below “ Tarascon’s
Mills,” at the foot of the Rapids of the Ohio. I cannot
recollect the bait which was used; but on taking up the
line we obtained a remarkably fine catfish, in which was
found the greater part of a sucking pig.
I may here add that I have introduced a figure of the
catfish in Plate XX XI. of the first volume of my illus-
trations, in which I have represented the White-headed
Eagle.
A WILD HORSE
WHILE residing at Henderson in Kentucky, I became
acquainted with a gentleman who had just returned
from the country in the neighborhood of the head-
waters of the Arkansas River, where he had purchased
216 AUDUBON
a newly caught “Wild Horse,” a descendant of some
of the horses originally brought from Spain, and set at
liberty in the vast prairies of the Mexican lands. The
animal was by no means handsome; he had a large head,
with a considerable prominence in its frontal region, his
thick and unkempt mane hung along his neck to the
breast, and his tail, too scanty to be called flowing, almost
reached the ground. ‘But his chest was broad, his legs
clean and sinewy, and his eyes and nostrils indicated
spirit, vigor, and endurance. He had never been shod,
and although he had been ridden hard, and had per-
formed a long journey, his black hoofs had suffered no
damage. His color inclined to bay, the legs of a deeper
tint, and gradually darkening below until they became
nearly black. I inquired what might be the value of
such an animal among the Osage Indians, and was an-
swered that, the horse being only four years old, he had
given for him, with the tree and the buffalo-tug fastened
to his head, articles equivalent to about thirty-five dol-
lars. The gentleman added that he had never mounted
a better horse, and had very little doubt that, if well fed,
he could carry a man of ordinary weight from thirty-five
to forty miles a day for a month, as he had travelled at
that rate upon him, without giving him any other food
than the grass of the prairies, or the canes of the bottom
lands, until he had crossed the Mississippi at Natchez,
when he fed him with corn. Having no farther use for
him, now that he had ended his journey, he said he was
anxious to sell him, and thought he might prove a good
hunting-horse for me, as his gaits were easy, and he stood
fire as well as any charger he had seen. Having some
need of a horse possessed of qualities similar to those
represented as belonging to the one in question, I asked
if I might be allowed to try him. “Try him, sir, and
welcome; nay, if you will agree to feed him and take care
of him, you may keep him for a month if you choose.”
So I had the horse taken to the stable and fed.
EPISODES 217
About two hours afterwards, I took my gun, mounted
the prairie nag, and went to the woods. I was not long
in finding him very sensible to the spur, and as I observed
that he moved with great ease, both to himself and his
rider, I thought of leaping over a log several feet in diam-
eter, to judge how far he might prove serviceable in deer-
driving or bear-hunting. So I gave him the reins, and
pressed my legs to his belly without using the spur, on
which, as if aware that I wished to try his mettle, he
bounded off, and cleared the log as lightly as an elk. I
turned him, and made him leap the same log several
times, which he did with equal ease, so that I was satis-
fied of his ability to clear any impediment in the woods.
I next determined to try his strength, for which purpose
I took him to a swamp, which I knew was muddy and
tough. He entered it with his nose close to the water,
as if to judge of its depth, at which I was well pleased,
as he thus evinced due caution. I then rode through the
swamp in different directions, and found him prompt,
decided, and unflinching. Can he swim well? thought I,
—for there are horses, which, although excellent, cannot
swim at all, but will now and then lie on their side, as if
contented to float with the current, when the rider must
either swim and drag them to the shore, or abandon them.
To the Ohio then I went, and rode into the water. He
made off obliquely against the current, his head well raised
above the surface, his nostrils expanded, his breathing
free, and without any of the grunting noise emitted by
many horses on such occasions. I turned him down the .
stream, then directly against it, and finding him quite to
my mind, I returned to the shore, on reaching which he
stopped of his own accord, spread his legs, and almost
shook me off my seat. After this, I put him to a gallop,
and returning home through the woods, shot from the
saddle a Turkey-cock, which he afterwards approached as
if he had been trained to the sport, and enabled me to
take it up without dismounting.
218 AUDUBON
As soon as I reached the house of Dr. Rankin, where
I then resided, I sent word to the owner of the horse that
I should be glad to see him. When he came, I asked
him what price he would take; he said, fifty dollars in
silver was the lowest. So I paid the money, took a bill
of sale, and became master of the horse. The doctor,
who was an excellent judge, said smiling to me, “Mr.
Audubon, when you are tired of him, I will refund you
the fifty dollars, for depend upon it he is a capital horse.”
The mane was trimmed, but the tail left untouched; the
doctor had him shod “all round,” and for several weeks
he was ridden by my wife, who was highly pleased with
him.
Business requiring that I should go to Philadelphia,
Barro (he was so named after his former owner) was put
up for ten days, and well tended. The time of my de-
parture having arrived, I mounted him, and set off at the
rate of four miles an hour— but here I must give you
the line of my journey, that you may, if you please, fol-
low my course on some such map as that of Tanner’s.
From Henderson through Russellville, Nashville, and
Knoxville, Abingdon in Virginia, the Natural Bridge,
Harrisonburg, Winchester, and Harper’s Ferry, Frederick,
and Lancaster, to Philadelphia. There I remained four
days, after which I returned by way of Pittsburgh, Wheel-
ing, Zanesville, Chillicothe, Lexington, and Louisville, to
Henderson. But the nature of my business was such as
to make me deviate considerably from the main roads,
and I computed the whole distance at nearly two thousand
miles, the post roads being rather more than sixteen hun-
dred. I travelled not less than forty miles a day, and it
was allowed by the doctor that my horse was in as good
condition on my return as when I set out. Such a jour-
ney on a single horse may seem somewhat marvellous in
the eyes of a European; but in these days almost every
merchant had to perform the like, some from all parts of
EPISODES 219
the western country, even from St. Louis on the Mis-
souri, although the travellers not unfrequently, on their
return, sold their horses at Baltimore, Philadelphia, or
Pittsburg, at which latter place they took boat. My wife
rode on a single horse from Henderson to Philadelphia,
travelling at the same rate. The country was then com-
paratively new; few coaches travelled, and in fact the
roads were scarcely fit for carriages. About twenty days
were considered necessary for performing a journey on
horseback from Louisville to Philadelphia, whereas now
the same distance may be travelled in six or seven days,!
or even sometimes less, this depending on the height of
the water in the Ohio.
It may not be uninteresting to you to know the treat-
ment which the horse received on those journeys. I rose
every morning before day, cleaned my horse, pressed his
back with my hand, to see if it had been galled, and
placed on it a small blanket folded double, in such a man-
ner that when the saddle was put on, half of the cloth was
turned over it. The surcingle, beneath which the saddle-
bags were placed, confined the blanket to the seat, and
to the pad behind was fastened the great coat or cloak,
tightly rolled up. The bridle had a snaffle bit; a breast-
plate was buckled in front to each skirt, to render the seat
secure during an ascent; but my horse required no crup-
per, his shoulders being high and well-formed. On start-
ing he trotted off at the rate of four miles an hour, which
he continued. I usually travelled from fifteen to twenty
miles before breakfast, and after the first hour allowed
my horse to drink as much as he would. When I halted
for breakfast, I generally stopped two hours, cleaned the
horse, and gave him as much corn-blades as he could eat.
I then rode on until within half an hour of sunset, when
I watered him well, poured a bucket of cold water over
his back, had his skin well rubbed, his feet examined and
1 This was written in 1835.
220 AUDUBON
cleaned. The rack was filled with blades, the trough with
corn, a good-sized pumpkin or some hen’s-eggs, whenever
they could be procured, were thrown in, and if oats were
to be had, half a bushel of them was given in preference
to corn, which is apt to heat some horses. In the morn-
ing, the nearly empty trough and rack afforded sufficient
evidence of the state of his health.
I had not ridden him many days before he became so ,
attached to me that on coming to some limpid stream in
which I had a mind to bathe, I could leave him at liberty
to graze, and he would not drink if told not todo so. He
was ever sure-footed, and in such continual good spirits
that now and then, when a Turkey happened to rise from
a dusting-place before me, the mere inclination of my
body forward was enough to bring him to a smart canter,
which he would continue until the bird left the road for
the woods, when he never failed to resume his usual trot.
On my way homeward I met at the crossings of the Juni-
ata River a gentleman from New Orleans, whose name is
Vincent Nolte! He was mounted on a superb horse,
for which he had paid three hundred dollars, and a ser-
vant on horseback led another as a change. I was then
1 Vincent Nolte, in “ Fifty Years in Both Hemispheres,” gives an account
of his meeting on this occasion with Audubon, part of which is as follows:
“ About ten o’clock I arrived at a small inn, close by the falls of the Juniata
River. The landlady showed me into a room and said I perhaps would
not mind taking my meal with a strange gentleman, who was already there.
This personage struck me as an odd fish. He was sitting at a table before
the fire, with a Madras handkerchief wound around his head, exactly in the
style of the French mariners of a seaport town. . . . He showed himself to
be an original throughout, but admitted he was a Frenchman by birth, and
a native of La Rochelle. However, he had come in his early youth to
Louisiana, had grown up in the sea-service, and had gradually become a
thorough American. This man, who afterwards won for himself so great
a name in natural history, particularly in ornithology, was Audubon.” It
is needless to say that the personal history of Audubon as here given is
entirely erroneous; but as the meeting was in 1811, and the book written
Srom memory in 1854, Mr. Nolte must be pardoned for his misstatements,
which were doubtless unintentional.
EPISODES 221
an utter stranger to him, and as I approached and praised
his horse, he not very courteously observed that he wished
I had as gooda one. Finding that he was going to Bed-
ford to spend the night, I asked him at what hour he
would get there. “Just soon enough to have some trout
ready for our supper, provided you will join when you
get there.” I almost imagined that Barro understood our
conversation; he pricked up his ears, and lengthened his
pace, on which Mr. Nolte caracoled his horse, and then
put him to a quick trot; but all in vain, for I reached the
hotel nearly a quarter of an hour before him, ordered the
trout, saw to the putting away of my good horse, and
stood at the door ready to welcome my companion. From
that day Vincent Nolte has been a friend to me. It was
from him I received letters of introduction to the Rath-
bones of Liverpool, for which I shall ever be grateful to
him. We rode together as far as Shippingport, where
my worthy friend Nicholas Berthoud, Esq., resided, and
on parting with me he repeated what he had many times
said before, that he never had seen so serviceable a creat-
ure as Barro.
If I recollect rightly, I gave a short verbal account of
this journey, and of the good qualities of my horse, to my
learned friend J. Skinner, Esq., of Baltimore, who, I be-
lieve, has noticed them in his excellent Sporting Maga-
zine. We agreed that the importation of horses of this
kind from the Western prairies might improve our breeds
generally; and judging from those which I have seen, I
am inclined to think that some of them may prove fit for
the course. A few days after reaching Henderson, I
parted with Barro, not without regret, for a hundred and
twenty dollars.
222 AUDUBON
BREAKING UP OF THE ICE
WHILE proceeding up the Mississippi above its junction
with the Ohio,! I found to my great mortification that
its navigation was obstructed by ice. The chief con-
ductor of my bark, who was a French Canadian, was
therefore desired to take us to a place suitable for winter
quarters, which he accordingly did, bringing us into a great
bend of the river called Tawapatee Bottom. ‘The waters
were unusually low, the thermometer indicated excessive
cold, the earth all around was covered with snow, dark
clouds were spread over the heavens, and as all appear-
ances were unfavorable to the hope of a speedy prosecution
of our voyage, we quietly set to work. Our bark, which
was a large keel-boat, was moored close to the shore, the
cargo was conveyed to the woods, large trees were felled
over the water, and were so disposed as to keep off the
pressure of the floating masses of ice. In less than two
days, our stores, baggage, and ammunition were deposited
in a great heap under one of the magnificent trees of
which the forest was here composed, our sails were spread
over all, and a complete camp was formed in the wilder-
ness. Everything around us seemed dreary and dismal,
and had we not been endowed with the faculty of deriving
pleasure from the examination of nature, we should have
made up our minds to pass the time in a state similar to
that of Bears during their time of hibernation. We soon
found employment, however, for the woods were full of
game; and Deer, Turkeys, Raccoons, and Opossums might
be seen even around our camp; while on the ice that now
covered the broad stream rested flocks of Swans, to sur-
1 This was on the journey made by Audubon and his partner, Ferdinand
Rozier, from Louisville to St. Geneviéve, then in Upper Louisiana. They
left Louisville in the autumn of 1810, and Audubon returned in the spring
of 1811.
EPISODES 223
prise which the hungry Wolves were at times seen to make
energetic but unsuccessful efforts. It was curious to see
the snow-white birds all lying flat on the ice, but keenly
intent on watching the motions of their insidious enemies,
until the latter advanced within the distance of a few
hundred yards, when the Swans, sounding their trumpet-
notes of alarm, would all rise, spread out their broad
wings, and after running some yards and battering the
ice until the noise was echoed like thunder through
the woods, rose exultingly into the air, leaving their
pursuers to devise other schemes for gratifying their
craving appetites.
The nights being extremely cold, we constantly kept
up a large fire, formed of the best wood. Fine trees of ash
and hickory were felled, cut up into logs of convenient
size, and rolled into a pile, on the top of which, with the
aid of twigs, a fire was kindled. There were about fifteen
of us, some hunters, others trappers, and all more or less
accustomed to living in the woods. At night, when all
had returned from their hunting grounds, some successful
and others empty-handed, they presented a picture in the
strong glare of the huge fire that illuminated the forest,
which it might prove interesting to you to see, were it
copied by a bold hand on canvas. Over a space of thirty
yards or more, the snow was scraped away, and piled up
into a circular wall, which protected us from the cold blast.
Our cooking utensils formed no mean display, and before
a week had elapsed, Venison, Turkeys, and Raccoons hung
on the branches in profusion. Fish, too, and that of ex-
cellent quality, often graced our board, having been obtained
by breaking holes in the ice of the lakes. It was observed
that the Opossums issued at night from holes in the banks
of the river, to which they returned about daybreak; and
having thus discovered their retreat, we captured many of
them by means of snares.
At the end of a fortnight our bread failed, and two of the
224 AUDUBON
party were directed to proceed across the bend, towards a
village on the western bank of the Mississippi, in quest of
that commodity; for although we had a kind of substitute
for it in the dry white flesh of the breast of the wild Turkey,
bread is bread after all, and more indispensable to civilized
man than any other article of food. The expedition left
the camp early one morning; one of the party boasted
much of his knowledge of woods, while the other said
nothing, but followed. They walked on all day, and
returned next morning to the camp with empty wallets.
The next attempt, however, succeeded, and they brought
on a sledge a barrel of flour, and some potatoes. After
a while we were joined by many Indians, the observation
of whose manners afforded us much amusement.
Six weeks were spent in Tawapatee Bottom. The
waters had kept continually sinking, and our boat lay on
her side high and dry. On both sides of the stream, the
ice had broken into heaps, forming huge walls. Our pilot
visited the river daily, to see what prospect there might be
of achange. One night, while, excepting himself, all were
sound asleep, he suddenly roused us with loud cries of
“The ice is breaking! Getup,getup! Down to the boat,
lads! Bring out your axes! Hurry on, or we may lose her!
‘Here, let us have a torch!” Starting up as if we had been
attacked by a band of savages, we ran pell-mell to the bank,
The ice was indeed breaking up; it split with reports like
those of heavy artillery, and as the water had suddenly
risen from an overflow of the Ohio, the two streams seemed
to rush against each other with violence; in consequence
of which the congealed mass was broken into large frag-
ments, some of which rose nearly erect here and there,
and again fell with thundering crash, as the wounded
whale, when in the agonies of death, springs up with
furious force and again plunges into the foaming waters.
To our surprise the weather, which in the evening had been
calm and frosty, had become wet and blowy. The water
EPISODES 225
gushed from the fissures formed in the ice, and the prospect
was extremely dismal. When day dawned, a spectacle
strange and fearful presented itself: the whole mass of
water was violently agitated, its covering was broken into
small fragments, and although not a foot of space was
without ice, not a step could the most daring have ventured
to make upon it. Our boat was in imminent danger, for
the trees which had been placed to guard it from the ice
were cut or broken into pieces, and were thrust against her.
It was impossible to move her; but our pilot ordered every
man to bring down great bunches of cane, which were
lashed along her sides; and before these were destroyed
by the ice, she was afloat and riding above it. While we
were gazing on the scene a tremendous crash was heard,
which seemed to have taken place about a mile below,
when suddenly the great dam of ice gave way. The cur-
rent of the Mississippi had forced its way against that of
the Ohio, and in less than four hours we witnessed the
complete breaking up of the ice.
During that winter the ice was so thick on the Missis-
sippi that, opposite St. Louis, horses and heavy wagons
crossed the river. Many boats had been detained in the
same manner as our own, so that provisions and other
necessary articles had become very scarce, and sold at a
high price. This was the winter cf 1810-11.
THE PRAIRIE
ON my return from the Upper Mississippi I found
myself obliged to cross one of the wide prairies which,
in that portion of the United States, vary the appear-
ance of the country. The weather was fine; all around
me was as fresh and blooming as if it had just issued
from the bosom of Nature. My knapsack, my gun,
VoL. 11.—15
226 AUDUBON
and my dog were all I had for baggage and com-
pany. But, although well moccasined, I moved slowly
along, attracted by the brilliancy of the flowers, and the
gambols of the fawns around their dams, to all appearance
as thoughtless of danger as I felt myself.
My march was of long duration; I saw the sun sinking
below the horizon long before I could perceive any
appearance of woodland, and nothing in the shape of
man had I met with that day. The track which I fol-
lowed was only an old Indian trace, and as darkness over-
shadowed the prairie I felt some desire to reach at least
a copse, in which I might lie down to rest. The Night
Hawks were skimming over and around me, attracted by
the buzzing wings of the beetles which form their food,
and the distant howling of wolves gave me some hope
that I should soon arrive at the skirts of some woodlands.
I did so, and almost at the same instant, a firelight
attracting my eye, I moved towards it, full of confidence
that it proceeded from the camp of some wandering
Indians. I was mistaken: I discovered by its glare that
it was from the hearth of a small log cabin, and that a
tall figure passed and repassed between it and me, as if
busily engaged in household arrangements.
I reached the spot, and presenting myself at the door,
asked the tall figure, which proved to be a woman, if I
might take shelter under her roof for the night. Her
voice was gruff, and her attire negligently thrown about
her. She answered in the affirmative. I walked in, took
a wooden stool, and quietly seated myself by the fire.
The next object that attracted my notice was a finely
formed young Indian, resting his head between his hands,
with his elbows on his knees. A long bow rested against
the log wall near him, while a quantity of arrows and two
or three Raccoon skins lay at his feet. He moved not; he
apparently breathed not. Accustomed to the habits of
Indians, and knowing that they pay little attention to the
EPISODES 227
approach of civilized strangers (a circumstance which in
some countries is considered as evincing the apathy of
their character), I addressed him in French, a language
not infrequently partially known to the people in that
neighborhood. He raised his head, pointed to one of
his eyes with his finger, and gave me a significant glance
with the other. His face was covered with blood. The
fact was that an hour before this, as he was in the act of
discharging an arrow at a Raccoon in the top of a tree, the
arrow had split upon the cord, and sprung back with such
violence into his right eye as to destroy it forever.
Feeling hungry, I inquired what sort of fare I might
expect. Such a thing as a bed was not to be seen, but
many large untanned Bear and Buffalo hides lay piled in
acorner. I drew a fine time-piece from my breast, and
told the woman that it was late, and that I was fatigued.
She had espied my watch, the richness of which seemed
to operate upon her feelings with electric quickness. She
told me there was plenty of venison and jerked buffalo
meat, and that on removing the ashes I should find a
cake. But my watch had struck her fancy, and her curi-
osity had to be gratified by an immediate sight of it. I
took off the gold chain that secured it, from around my
neck, and presented it to her; she was all ecstasy, spoke
of its beauty, asked me its value, and put the chain round
her brawny neck, saying how happy the possession of
such a watch would make her. Thoughtless, and as I
fancied myself in so retired a spot secure, I paid little
attention to her talk or her movements. I helped my
dog to a good supper of venison, and was not long in
satisfying the demands of my own appetite.
The Indian rose from his seat, as if in extreme suffer-
ing. He passed and repassed me several times, and once
pinched me on the side so violently that the pain nearly
brought forth an exclamation of anger. I looked at him.
His eye met mine, but his look was so forbidding that it
228 AUDUBON
6
struck a chill into the more nervous part of my system.
He again seated himself, drew his butcher-knife from its
greasy scabbard, examined its edge, as I would do that of
a razor suspected dull, replaced it, and again taking his
tomahawk from his back, filled the pipe of it with tobacco,
and sent me expressive glances, whenever our hostess
chanced to have her back towards us.
Never until that moment had my senses been awakened
to the danger which I now suspected to be about me. I
returned glance for glance to my companion, and rested
well assured that, whatever enemies I might have, he was
not of their number.
I asked the woman for my watch, wound it up, and
under pretence of wishing to see how the weather might
probably be on the morrow, took up my gun, and walked
out of the cabin. I slipped a ball into each barrel, scraped
the edges of my flints, renewed the primings, and return-
ing to the hut gave a favorable report of my observations.
I took a few Bear skins, made a pallet of them, and calling
my faithful dog to my side, lay down, with my gun close
to my body, and in a few minutes was, to all appearance,
fast asleep.
A short time had elapsed when some voices were heard,
and from the corner of my eye I saw two athletic youths
making their entrance, bearing a dead stag on a pole.
They disposed of their burden, and asking for whiskey,
helped themselves freely to it. Observing me and the
wounded Indian, they asked who I was, and why the
devil that rascal (meaning the Indian, who, they knew,
understood not a word of English) was in the house.
The mother — for so she proved to be — bade them speak
less loudly, made mention of my watch, and took them to
a corner, where a conversation took place, the purport of
which it required little shrewdness in me to guess. I
tapped my dog gently. He moved his tail, and with
indescribable pleasure I saw his fine eyes alternately fixed
EPISODES 229
on me, and raised towards the trio in the corner. I felt
that he perceived danger in my situation. The Indian
exchanged a last glance with me.
The lads had eaten and drunk themselves into such a
condition that I already looked upon them as hors de com-
éat,; and the frequent visits of the whiskey bottle to the
ugly mouth of their dam, I hoped would soon reduce her
to alike state. Judge of my astonishment, reader, when
I saw this incarnate fiend take a large carving-knife, and
go to the grindstone to whet its edge; I saw her pour the
water on the turning machine, and watched her working
away with the dangerous instrument, until the cold sweat
covered every part of my body, in despite of my determi-
nation to defend myself to the last. Her task finished,
she walked to her reeling sons, and said: ‘ There, that'll
soon settle him! Boys, kill yon , and then for
the watch.”
I turned, cocked my gun-locks silently, touched my
faithful companion, and lay ready to start up and shoot
the first who might attempt my life. The moment was
fast approaching, and that night might have been my last
in this world, had not Providence made preparations for
my rescue. All was ready. The infernal hag was advanc-
ing slowly; probably contemplating the best way of de-
spatching me, whilst her sons should be engaged with the
Indian. I was several times on the eve of rising and
shooting her on the spot; but she was not to be pun-
ished thus. The door was suddenly opened, and there
entered two stout travellers, each with a long rifle on his
shoulder. I bounced up on my feet, and making them
most heartily welcome, told them how well it was for me
that they should have arrived at that moment. The tale
was told in a minute. The drunken sons were secured,
and the woman, in spite of her defence and vociferations,
shared the same fate. The Indian fairly danced with
joy, and gave us to understand that, as he could not sleep
230 AUDUBON
for pain, he would watch over us. You may suppose we
slept much less than we talked. The two strangers gave
me an account of their once having been themselves in a
somewhat similar situation. Day came, fair and rosy, and
with it the punishment of our captives.
They were now quite sobered. Their feet were un-
bound, but their arms were still securely tied. We
marched them into the woods off the road, and having
used them as Regulators were wont to use such delin-
quents, we set fire to the cabin, gave all the skins and
implements to the young Indian warrior, and proceeded,
well pleased, towards the settlements.
During upwards of twenty-five years, when my wander-
ings extended to all parts of our country, this was the only
time at which my life was in danger from my fellow-crea-
tures. Indeed, so little risk do travellers run in the United
States that no one born there ever dreams of any to be
encountered on the road; and I can only account for this
occurrence by supposing that the inhabitants of the cabin
were not Americans.
Will you believe, good-natured reader, that not many
miles from the place where this adventure happened, and
where fifteen years ago, no habitation belonging to civil-
ized man was expected, and very few ever seen, large
roads are now laid out, cultivation has converted the woods
into fertile fields, taverns have been erected, and much of
what we Americans call comfort is to be met with? So
fast does improvement proceed in our abundant and free
country.)
1 This incident occurred during Audubon’s return trip to St. Geneviéve
in the early spring of 1812.
EPISODES 231
THE REGULATORS
THE population of many parts of America is derived
from the refuse of every other country. I hope I shall
elsewhere prove to you, kind reader, that even in this we
have reason to feel a certain degree of pride, as we often
see our worst denizens becoming gradually freed from
error, and at length changing to useful and respectable
citizens, The most depraved of these emigrants are forced
to retreat farther and farther from the society of the vir-
tuous, the restraints imposed by whom they find incom-
patible with their habits and the gratification of their un-
bridled passions. On the extreme verge of civilization,
however, their evil propensities find more free scope, and
the dread of punishments for their deeds, or the infliction
of that punishment, are the only means that prove effectual
in reforming them.
In those remote parts, no sooner is it discovered that an
individual has conducted himself in a notoriously vicious
manner, or has committed some outrage upon society,
than a conclave of the honest citizens takes place, for the
purpose of investigating the case, with a rigor without
‘which no good result could be expected. These honest
citizens, selected from among the most respectable per-
sons in the district, and vested with power suited to the
necessity of preserving order on the frontiers, are named
Regulators. The accused person is arrested, his con-
duct laid open, and if he is found guilty of a first crime,
he is warned to leave the country, and go farther from
society, within an appointed time. Should the individual
prove so callous as to disregard the sentence, and remain
in the same neighborhood, to commit new crimes, then
woe be to him; for the Regulators, after proving him
guilty a second time, pass and execute a sentence which,
if not enough to make him perish under the infliction, is
232 AUDUBON
at least forever impressed upon his memory. The punish-
ment inflicted is usually a severe castigation, and the
destruction by fire of his cabin. Sometimes, in cases of
reiterated theft or murder, death is considered necessary ;
and, in some instances, delinquents of the worst species
have been shot, after which their heads have been stuck
on poles, to deter others from following their example. I
shall give you an account of one of these desperadoes, as
I received it from a person who had been instrumental
in bringing him to punishment.
The name of Mason is still familiar to many of the navi-
gators of the Lower Ohio and Mississippi. By dint of
industry in bad deeds, he became a notorious horse-stealer,
formed a line of worthless associates from the eastern
part of Virginia (a State greatly celebrated for its fine
breed of horses) to New Orleans, and had a settlement on
Wolf Island, not far from the confluence of the Ohio and
Mississippi, from which he issued to stop the flatboats,
and rifle them of such provisions and other articles as he
and his party needed. His depredations became the talk
of the whole Western country; and to pass Wolf Island
was not less to be dreaded than to anchor under the walls
of Algiers. The horses, the negroes, and the cargoes, his
gang carried off and sold. At last, a body of Regulators
undertook, at great peril, and for the sake of the country,
to bring the villain to punishment.
Mason was as cunning and watchful as he was active
and daring. Many of his haunts were successively found
out and searched, but the numerous spies in his employ
enabled him to escape in time. One day, however, as he
was riding a beautiful horse in the woods he was met by
one of the Regulators, who immediately recognized him,
but passed him as if an utter stranger. Mason, not dream-
ing of danger, pursued his way leisurely, as if he had met
no one. But he was dogged by the Regulator, and in such
a manner as proved fatal to him. At dusk, Mason, having
EPISODES 233
reached the lowest part of a ravine, no doubt well known
to him, hoppled (tied together the fore-legs of) his stolen
horse, to enable it to feed during the night without chance
of straying far, and concealed himself in a hollow log to
spend the night. The plan was good, but proved his
ruin.
The Regulator, who knew every hill and hollow of the
woods, marked the place and the log with the eye of an
experienced hunter, and as he remarked that Mason was
most efficiently armed, he galloped off to the nearest house
where he knew he should find assistance. This was easily
procured, and the party proceeded to the spot. Mason,
on being attacked, defended himself with desperate valor;
and as it proved impossible to secure him alive he was
brought to the ground with a rifle ball. His head was cut
off, and stuck on the end of a broken branch of a tree, by
the nearest road to the place where the affray happened.
The gang soon dispersed, in consequence of the loss of
their leader, and this infliction of merited punishment
proved beneficial in deterring others from following a
similar predatory life.
The punishment by castigation is performed in the fol-
lowing manner. The individual convicted of an offence is
led to some remote part of the woods, under the escort
of some forty or fifty Regulators. When arrived at the
chosen spot, the criminal is made fast to a tree, and a few
of the Regulators remain with him, while the rest scour the
forest to assure themselves that no strangers are within
reach, after which they form an extensive ring, arranging
themselves on their horses, well armed with rifles and
pistols, at equal distances and in each other’s sight. Ata
given signal that “all’s ready,” those about the culprit,
having provided themselves with young twigs of hickory,
administer the number of lashes prescribed by the sen-
tence, untie the sufferer, and order him to leave the
country immediately.
234 AUDUBON
One of these castigations, which took place more within
my personal knowledge, was performed on a fellow who
was neither a thief nor a murderer, but who had misbe-
haved otherwise sufficiently to bring himself under the
sentence with mitigation. He was taken to a place where
nettles were known to grow in great luxuriance, completely
stripped and so lashed with them that, although not mate-
rially hurt, he took it as a hint not to be neglected, left the
country, and was never again heard of by any of the party
concerned,
Probably at the moment when I am copying these notes
respecting the early laws of our frontier people, few or no
Regulating Parties exist, the terrible examples that were
made having impressed upon the new settlers a salutary
dread, which restrains them from the commission of
flagrant crimes.
THE EARTHQUAKE
TRAVELLING through the Barrens of Kentucky (of which
I shall give you an account elsewhere) in the month
of November, I was jogging on one afternoon, when
I remarked a sudden and strange darkness rising from
the western horizon, Accustomed to our heavy storms
of thunder and rain I took no more notice of it, as I
thought the speed of my horse might enable me to get
under shelter of the roof of an acquaintance, who lived
not far distant, before it should come up. I had proceeded
about a mile, when I heard what I imagined to be the
distant rumbling of a violent tornado, on which I spurred
my steed, with a wish to gallop as fast as possible to a
place of shelter; but it would not do, the animal knew
better than I what was forthcoming, and instead of going
faster, so nearly stopped that I remarked he placed one
foot after another on the ground, with as much precaution
AUDUBON, 1839.
PAINTED IN EDINBURGH BY J. W. AUDUBON.
EPISODES 235
as if walking on a smooth sheet of ice. I thought he had
suddenly foundered, and, speaking to him, was on the
point of dismounting and leading him, when he all of a
sudden fell a-groaning piteously, hung his head, spread
out his four legs, as if to save himself from falling, and
stood stock still, continuing to groan. I thought my horse
was about to die, and would have sprung from his back
had a minute more elapsed, but at that instant all the
shrubs and trees began to move from their very roots, the
ground rose and fell in successive furrows, like the ruffled
waters of a lake, and I became bewildered in my ideas, as
I too plainly discovered that all this awful commotion in
nature was the result of an earthquake.
I had never witnessed anything of the kind before,
although, like every other person, I knew of earthquakes
by description. But what is description compared with the
reality? Who can tell of the sensations which I expe-
rienced when I found myself rocking as it were on my
horse, and with him moved to and fro like a child in a
cradle, with the most imminent danger around, and ex-
pecting the ground every moment to open and present to
my eye such an abyss as might engulf myself and all
around me? The fearful convulsion, however, lasted only
a few minutes, and the heavens again brightened as quickly
as they had become obscured ;. my horse brought his feet
to their natural position, raised his head, and galloped
off as if loose and frolicking without a rider.
I was not, however, without great apprehension respect-
ing my family, from which I was yet many miles distant,
fearful that where they were the shock might have caused
greater havoc than I had witnessed. I gave the bridle to
my steed, and was glad to see him appear as anxious to
get home as myself. The pace at which he galloped
accomplished this sooner than I had expected, and I found
with much pleasure that hardly any greater harm had taken
place than the apprehension excited for my own safety.
236 AUDUBON
Shock succeeded shock almost every day or night for
several weeks, diminishing, however, so gradually as to
dwindle away into mere vibrations of the earth. Strange
to say, I for one became so accustomed to the feeling as
rather to enjoy the fears manifested by others. I never
can forget the effects of one of the slighter shocks which
took place when I was at a friend’s house, where I had
gone to enjoy the merriment that, in our Western country,
attends a wedding. The ceremony being performed, sup-
per over, and the fiddles tuned, dancing became the order
of the moment. This was merrily followed up to a late
hour, when the party retired to rest. We were in what
is called, with great propriety, a dog-house, one of large
dimensions, and solidly constructed. The owner was a
physician, and in one corner were not only his lancets,
tourniquets, amputating knives, and other sanguinary ap-
paratus, but all the drugs which he employed for the relief
of his patients, arranged in jars and phials of different
sizes. These had some days before had a narrow escape
from destruction, but had been fortunately preserved by
closing the doors of the cases in which they were contained.
As I have said, we had all retired to rest, some to dream
of sighs or smiles, some to sink into oblivion. Morning
was fast approaching, when the rumbling noise that pre-
cedes the earthquake, began so loudly as to waken and
alarm the whole party, and drive them out of bed in the
greatest consternation. The scene which ensued it is im-
possible for me to describe, and it would require the
humorous pencil of Cruikshank to do justice to it. Fear
knows no restraint. Every person, young and old, filled
with alarm at the creaking of the log-house, and appre-
hending instant destruction, rushed wildly out to the grass
enclosure fronting the building. The full moon was slowly
descending from her throne, covered at times by clouds
that rolled heavily along, as if to conceal from her view
the scenes of terror which prevailed on the earth below.
EPISODES 237
On the grass-plat we all met, in such condition as rendered
it next to impossible to discriminate any of the party, all
huddled together in a state of great dishabille. The earth
waved like a field of corn before the breeze; the birds left
their perches, and flew about, not knowing whither; and
the doctor, recollecting the danger of his gallipots, ran to
his shop room, to prevent their dancing off the shelves to
the floor. Never for a moment did he think of closing
the doors, but, spreading his arms, jumped about the front
of the cases, pushing back here and there the falling jars ;
with so little success, however, that before the shock was
over he had lost nearly all he possessed.
The shock at length ceased, and the frightened women
now sensible of their undress, fled to their several apart-
ments. The earthquake produced more serious con-
sequences in other places. Near New Madrid and for
some distance on the Mississippi, the earth was rent asun-
der in several places, one or two islands sunk forever,
and the inhabitants fled in dismay towards the eastern
shore.
THE HURRICANE
VARIOUS portions of our country have at different periods
suffered severely from the influence of violent storms of
wind, some of which have been known to traverse nearly
the whole extent of the United States, and to leave such
deep impressions in their wake as will not easily be for-
gotten. Having witnessed one of these awful phenomena,
in all its grandeur, I shall attempt to describe it for
your sake, kind reader, and for your sake only; the
recollection of that astonishing revolution of the ethereal
element even now bringing with it so disagreeable a sen-
sation that I feel as if about to be affected by a sudden
stoppage of the circulation of my blood.
238 AUDUBON
I had left the village of Shawanee, situated on the banks
of the Ohio, on my return from Henderson, which is also
situated on the banks of the same beautiful stream. The
weather was pleasant, and I thought not warmer than
usual at that season. My horse was jogging quietly along,
and my thoughts were, for once at least in the course of
my life, entirely engaged in commercial speculations. I
had forded Highland Creek, and was on the eve of enter-
ing a tract of bottom land or valley that lay between it
and Canoe Creek, when on a sudden I remarked a great
difference in the aspect of the heavens. A hazy thickness
had overspread the country, and I for some time expected
an earthquake; but my horse exhibited no propensity to
stop and prepare for such an occurrence, I had nearly
arrived at the verge of the valley, when I thought fit to
stop near a brook, and dismounted to quench the thirst
which had come upon me.
I was leaning on my knees, with my lips about to touch
the water, when, from my proximity to the earth, I heard
a distant murmuring sound of an extraordinary nature. I
drank, however, and as I rose on my feet, looked towards
the southwest, where I observed a yellowish oval spot,
the appearance of which was quite new to me. Little
time was left me for consideration, as the next moment a
smart breeze began to agitate the taller trees. It increased
to an unexpected height, and already the smaller branches
and twigs were seen falling in a slanting direction towards
the ground. Two minutes had scarcely elapsed, when
the whole forest before me was in fearful motion. Here
and there, where one tree pressed against another, a
creaking noise was produced, similar to that occasioned
by the violent gusts which sometimes sweep over the
country. Turning instinctively towards the direction from
which the wind blew, I saw to my great astonishment that
the noblest trees of the forest bent their lofty heads for a
while, and, unable to stand against the blast, were falling
EPISODES 239
into pieces. First the branches were broken off with a
crackling noise; then went the upper parts of the massy
trunks; and in many places whole trees of gigantic size were
falling entire to the ground. So rapid was the progress
of the storm that before I could think of taking measures
to insure my safety the hurricane was passing opposite the
place where I stood. Never can I forget the scene which
at that moment presented itself. The tops of the trees
were seen moving in the strangest manner, in the central
current of the tempest, which carried along with it a min-
gled mass of twigs and foliage that completely obscured
the view. Some of the largest trees were seen bending
and writhing under the gale; others suddenly snapped
across; and many, after a momentary resistance, fell up-
rooted to the earth. The mass of branches, twigs, foliage,
and dust that moved through the air was whirled onwards
like a cloud of feathers, and on passing disclosed a wide
space filled with fallen trees, naked stumps, and heaps of
shapeless ruins which marked the path of the tempest.
This space was about a fourth of a mile in breadth, and to
my imagination resembled the dried up bed of the Mis-
sissippi, with its thousands of planters and sawyers strewed
in the sand and inclined in various degrees. The horrible
noise resembled that of the great cataracts of Niagara, and,
as it howled along in the track of the desolating tempest,
produced a feeling in my mind which it were impossible
to describe.
The principal force of the hurricane was now over,
although millions of twigs and small branches that had
been brought from a great distance were seen following
the blast, as if drawn onwards by some mysterious power.
They even floated in the air for some hours after, as if
supported by the thick mass of dust that rose high above
the ground. The sky had now a greenish lurid hue, and
an extremely disagreeable sulphurous odor was diffused
in the atmosphere. I waited in amazement, having sus-
240 AUDUBON
tained no material injury, until nature at length resumed
her wonted aspect. For some moments I felt undeter-
mined whether I should return to Morgantown, or attempt
to force my way through the wrecks of the tempest. My
business, however, being of an urgent nature, I ventured
into the path of the storm, and after encountering innu-
merable difficulties, succeeded in crossing it. I was
obliged to lead my horse by the bridle, to enable him to
leap over the fallen trees, whilst I scrambled over or under
them in the best way I could, at times so hemmed in by
the broken tops and tangled branches as almost to become
desperate. On arriving at my house, I gave an account
of what I had seen, when, to my astonishment, I was
told there had been very little wind in the neighbor-
hood, although in the streets and gardens many branches
and twigs had fallen in a manner which excited great
surprise.
Many wondrous accounts of the devastating effects of
this hurricane were circulated in the country after its oc-
currence. Some log houses, we were told, had been over-
turned and their inmates destroyed. One person informed
me that a wire sifter had been conveyed by the gust toa
distance of many miles. Another had found a cow lodged
in the fork of a large half-broken tree. But, as I am dis-
posed to relate only what I have myself seen, I shall not
lead you into the region of romance, but shall content
myself with saying that much damage was done by this
awful visitation. The valley is yet a desolate place, over-
grown with briers and bushes, thickly entangled amidst
the tops and trunks of the fallen trees, and is the resort of
ravenous animals, to which they betake themselves when
pursued by man, or after they have committed their
depredations on the farms of the surrounding district. I
have crossed the path of the storm at a distance of a
hundred miles from the spot where I witnessed its fury,
and again, four hundred miles farther off, in the State of
EPISODES 241
Ohio. Lastly, I observed traces of its ravages on the sum-
mits of the mountains connected with the Great Pine
Forest of Pennsylvania, three hundred miles beyond the
place last mentioned. In all these different parts it ap-
peared to me not to have exceeded a quarter of a mile in
breadth.
COLONEL BOONE
DANIEL BOONE, or, as he was usually called in the West-
ern country, Colonel Boone, happened to spend a night
with me under the same roof, more than twenty years
ago. We had returned from a shooting excursion, in
the course of which his extraordinary skill in the man-
agement of the rifle had been fully displayed. On retir-
ing to the room appropriated to that remarkable indi-
vidual and myself for the night, I felt anxious to know
more of his exploits and adventures than I did, and accord-
ingly took the liberty of proposing numerous questions to
him. The stature and general appearance of this wan-
derer of the western forests approached the gigantic. His
chest was broad and prominent; his muscular powers
displayed themselves in every limb; his countenance gave
indication of his great courage, enterprise, and persever-
ance; and when he spoke, the very motion of his lips
brought the impression that whatever he uttered could
not be otherwise than strictly true. I undressed, whilst
he merely took off his hunting shirt, and arranged a few
folds of blankets on the floor, choosing rather to lie there,
as he observed, than on the softest bed. When we had
both disposed of ourselves, each after his own fashion,
he related to me the following- account of his powers of
memory, which I lay before you, kind reader, in his own
words, hoping that the simplicity of his style may prove
interesting to you.
VOL. 11. — 16
242 AUDUBON
“T was once,” said he, “on a hunting expedition on the
banks of the Green River, when the lower parts of this
State (Kentucky) were still in the hands of nature, and
none but the sons of the soil were’ looked upon as its
lawful proprietors. We Virginians had for some time
been waging a war of intrusion upon them, and I, amongst
the rest, rambled through the woods in pursuit of their
race as I now would follow the tracks of any ravenous
animal. The Indians outwitted me one dark night, and
I was as unexpectedly as suddenly made a prisoner by
them. The trick had been managed with great skill; for
no sooner had I extinguished the fire of my camp, and
laid me down to rest, in full security as I thought, than
I felt myself seized by an indistinguishable number of
hands, and was immediately pinioned, as if about to be
led to the scaffold for execution. To have attempted
to be refractory would have proved useless and danger-
ous to my life; and I suffered myself to be removed from
my camp to theirs, a few miles distant, without uttering
even a word of complaint. You are aware, I dare say,
that to act in this manner was the best policy, as you
understand that, by so doing, I proved to the Indians at
once that I was born and bred as fearless of death as any
of themselves.
“When we reached the camp, great rejoicings were
exhibited. Two squaws and a few pappooses appeared
particularly delighted at the sight of me, and I was
assured, by very unequivocal gestures and words, that,
on the morrow, the mortal enemy of the Red-skins would
cease to live. I never opened my lips, but was busy con-
triving some scheme which might enable me to give the
rascals the slip before dawn. The women immediately
fell a-searching about my. hunting-shirt for whatever they
might think valuable, and, fortunately for me, soon found
my flask filled with monongahela (that is, reader, strong
whiskey). A terrific grin was exhibited on their murder-
EPISODES 243
ous countenances, while my heart throbbed with joy at
the anticipation of their intoxication. The crew immedi-
ately began to beat their bellies and sing, as they passed
the bottle from mouth to mouth. How often did I wish
the flask ten times its size, and filled with aqua-fortis! I
observed that the squaws drank more freely than the
warriors, and again my spirits were about to be depressed,
when the report of a gun was heard atadistance. The
Indians all jumped on their feet. The singing and drink-
ing were both brought to a stand, and I saw, with inex-
pressible joy, the men walk off to some distance and talk to
the squaws. I knew that they were consulting about me,
and I foresaw that in a few moments the warriors would
go to discover the cause of the gun having been fired so
near their camp. I expected that the squaws would be
left to guard me. Well, sir, it was just so. They
returned; the men took up their guns and walked away.
The squaws sat down again, and in less than five minutes
had my bottle up to their dirty mouths, gurgling down
their throats the remains of the whiskey.
“With what pleasure did I see them becoming more
and more drunk, until the liquor took such hold of them
that it was quite impossible for these women to be of any
service. They tumbled down, rolled about, and began to
snore: when I, having no other chance of freeing myself
from the cords that fastened me, rolled over and over
towards the fire, and, after a short time, burned them asun-
der. I rose on my feet, stretched my stiffened sinews,
snatched up my rifle, and, for once in my life, spared that
of Indians. I now recollect how desirous I once or twice
felt to lay open the skulls of the wretches with my toma-
hawk; but when I again thought upon killing beings
unprepared and unable to defend themselves, it looked
like murder without need, and I gave up the idea.
“ But, sir, I felt determined to mark the spot, and walk-
. ing to a thrifty ash sapling, I cut out of it three large
244 AUDUBON
chips, and ran off. I soon reached the river, soon crossed
it, and threw myself deep into the cane-brakes, imitating
the tracks of an Indian with my feet, so that no chance might
be left for those from whom I had escaped to overtake me.
“Tt is now nearly twenty years since this happened, and
more than five since I left the Whites’ settlements, which
I might probably never have visited again had I not been
called on as a witness in a law-suit that was pending in
Kentucky, and which I really believe would never have
been settled had I not come forward and established the
beginning of a certain boundary line. This is the story, sir.
“Mr. moved from Old Virginia into. Kentucky,
and having a large tract granted to him in the new State,
laid claim to a certain parcel of land adjoining Green
River, and, as chance would have it, took for one of his
corners the very ash-tree on which I had made my mark,
and finished his survey of some thousands of acres, begin-
ning, as it is expressed in the deed, ‘at an Ash marked by
three distinct notches of the tomahawk of a white man.’
“The tree had grown much, and the bark had covered
the marks; but, somehow or other, Mr. heard from
some one all that I have already said to you, and thinking
that I might remember the spot alluded to in the deed,
but which was no longer discoverable, wrote for me to
come and try at least to find the place or the tree. His
letter mentioned that all my expenses should be paid, and
not caring much about once more going back to Ken-
tucky, I started and met Mr. After some conver-
sation, the affair with the Indians came to my recollection.
I considered for a while, and began to think that after
all I could find the very spot, as well as the tree, if it was
yet standing.
“Mr. and I mounted our horses, and off we went
to the Green River Bottoms. After some difficulties, for
you must be aware, sir, that great changes have taken
place in those woods, I found at last the spot where I
EPISODES 245
had crossed the river, and, waiting for the moon to rise,
made for the course in which I thought the ash-tree grew.
On approaching the place,I felt as if the Indians were
there still, and as if I was still a prisoner among them,
Mr. and I camped near what I conceived the spot,
and waited until the return of day.
“At the rising of the sun I was on foot, and, after a
good deal of musing, thought that an ash-tree then in
sight must be the very one on which I had made my
mark. I felt as if there could be no doubt of it, and
mentioned my thought to Mr. ‘Well, Colonel
Boone,’ said he, ‘if you think so, I hope it may prove
true, but we must have some witnesses; do you stay here
about, and I will go and bring some of the settlers whom
I know.’ I agreed. Mr. trotted off, and I, to pass
the time, rambled about to see if a Deer was still living in
the land. But ah! sir, what a wonderful difference thirty
years makes in the country! Why, at the time when I was
caught by the Indians, you would not have walked out in
any direction for more than a mile without shooting a buck
ora Bear. There were then thousands of Buffaloes on the
hills in Kentucky; the land looked as if it never would
become poor; and to hunt in those days was a pleasure
indeed. But when I was left to myself on the banks of
Green River, I dare say for the last time in my life, a few
signs only of Deer were to be seen, and as to a Deer itself,
I saw none.
“Mr. returned, accompanied by three gentlemen.
They looked upon me as if I had been Washington him-
self, and walked to the ash-tree, which I now called my
own, as if in quest of a long-lost treasure. I took an axe
from one of them, and cut a few chips off the bark. Still
no signs were to be seen. SoI cut again until I thought
it was time to be cautious, and I scraped and worked
away with my butcher knife until I dad come to where
my tomahawk had left an impression in the wood. We
246 AUDUBON
now went regularly to work, and scraped at the tree with
care, until three hacks as plain as any three notches ever
were, could be seen. Mr. and the other gentlemen
were astonfshed, and, I must allow, I was as much sur-
prised as pleased myself. I made affidavit of this remark-
able occurrence in presence of these gentlemen. Mr,
gained his cause. I left Green River forever, and came to
where we now are; and, sir, I wish you a good night.”
I trust, kind reader, that when I again make my appear-
ance with another volume of Ornithological Biography, I
shall not have to search in vain for the impression which
I have made, but shall have the satisfaction of finding its
traces still unobliterated. I now withdraw, and, in the
words of the noted wanderer of the Western wilds, ‘“ wish
you a good night.”
NATCHEZ IN 1820
ONE clear, frosty morning in December I approached in
my flatboat the city of Natchez. The shores were crowded
with boats of various kinds, laden with the produce of
the Western country; and there was a bustle about them
such as you might see at a general fair, each person
being intent on securing the advantage of a good market.
Yet the scene was far from being altogether pleasing,
for I was yet “under the hill;” but on removing from
the Lower Town I beheld the cliffs on which the city,
properly so called, has been built. Vultures unnumbered
flew close along the ground on expanded pinions, search-
ing for food; large pines and superb magnolias here and
there raised their evergreen tops towards the skies; while
on the opposite shores of the Mississippi vast alluvial
beds stretched along, and the view terminated with the
dense forest. Steamers moved rapidly on the broad
waters of the great stream; the sunbeams fell with a
EPISODES 247
peculiarly pleasant effect on the distant objects; and as I
watched the motions of the White-headed Eagle while
pursuing the Fishing Hawk, I thought of the wonderful
ways of that Power to whom I too owe my existence.
Before reaching the land I had observed that several
saw-mills were placed on ditches or narrow canals, along
which the water rushed from the inner swamps towards
the river, and by which the timber is conveyed to the
shore; and, on inquiring afterwards, I found that one of
those temporary establishments had produced a net profit
of upwards of six thousand dollars in a single season.
There is much romantic scenery about Natchez. The
Lower Town forms a most remarkable contrast with the
Upper; for in the former the houses were not regularly
built, being generally dwellings formed of the abandoned
flatboats, placed in rows, as if with the view of forming a
long street. The inhabitants formed a medley which it is
beyond my power to describe; hundreds of laden carts
and other vehicles jogged along the declivity between the
two towns; but when, by a very rude causeway, I gained
the summit, I was relieved by the sight of an avenue of
those beautiful trees called here the Pride of China. In
the Upper Town I found the streets all laid off at right
angles to each other, and tolerably well lined with build-
ings constructed with painted bricks or boards.
The agricultural richness of the surrounding country
was shown by the heaps of cotton bales and other produce
that encumbered the streets. The churches, however, did
not please me; but as if to make up for this, I found my-
self unexpectedly accosted by my relative, Mr. Berthoud,
who presented me with letters from my wife and sons.
These circumstances put me in high spirits, and we pro-
ceeded towards the best hotel in the place, that of Mr.
Garnier. The house, which was built on the Spanish plan,
and of great size, was surrounded by large verandas over-
looking a fine garden, and stood at a considerable distance
248 AUDUBON
from any other. At this period the city of Natchez had a
population not exceeding three thousand individuals. I
have not visited it often since, but I have no doubt that,
like all the other towns in the western district of our coun-
try, it has greatly increased. It possessed a bank, and
the mail arrived there thrice in the week from all parts of
the Union.
The first circumstance that strikes a stranger is the
mildness of the temperature. Several vegetables as pleas-
ing to the eye as agreeable to the palate, and which are
seldom seen in our Eastern markets before May, were here
already in perfection. The Pewee Fly-catcher had chosen
the neighborhood of the city for its winter quarters, and
our deservedly famed Mocking-bird sang and danced
gratis to every passer by. I was surprised to see the im-
mense number of Vultures that strode along the streets
or slumbered on the roofs. The country for many miles
inland is gently undulated. Cotton is produced abun-
dantly, and wealth and happiness have taken up their abode
under most of the planters’ roofs, beneath which the
wearied traveller or the poor wanderer in search of a rest-
ing-place is sure to meet with comfort and relief. Game
is abundant, and the free Indians were wont in those days
to furnish the markets with ample supplies of vension and
Wild Turkey. The Mississippi, which bathes the foot of
the hill some hundred feet below the town, supplies the
inhabitants with fish of various kinds. The greatest de-
ficiency is that of water, which for common purposes is
dragged on sledges or wheels from the river, while that
used for drinking is collected in tanks from the roofs, and
becomes very scarce during protracted droughts. Until
of late years the orange-tree bore fruit in the open air;
but, owing to the great change that has taken place in the
temperature, severe though transient frosts occasionally
occur, which now prevent this plant from coming to per-
fection in the open air.
EPISODES 249
The remains of an old Spanish fort are still to be seen
at a short distance from the city. If 1 am correctly in-
formed, about two years previous to this visit of mine a
large portion of the hill near it gave way, sank about
a hundred feet, and carried many of the houses of the
Lower Town into the river. This, it would appear, was
occasioned by the quicksand running springs that flow
beneath the strata of mixed pebbles and clay of which the
hill is composed. The part that has subsided presents
the appearance of a basin or bowl, and is used as a depot
for the refuse of the town, on which the Vultures feed
when they can get nothing better. There it was that I
saw a White-headed Eagle chase one of those filthy birds,
knock it down, and feast on the entrails of a horse which
the Carrion Crow had partly swallowed.
I did not meet at Natchez many individuals fond of
ornithological pursuits, but the hospitality with which I
was received was such as I am not likely to forget. Mr.
Garnier subsequently proved an excellent friend to me, as
you may find elsewhere recorded. Of another individual,
whose kindness to me is indelibly impressed on my heart,
I would say a few words, although he was such a man as
Fénelon alone could describe. Charles Carré was of
French origin, the son of a nobleman of the old régime.
His acquirements and the benevolence of his disposition
were such that when I first met him I could not help
looking upon him as another Mentor. Although his few
remaining locks were gray, his countenance still expressed
the gayety and buoyant feelings of youth. He had the
best religious principles; for his heart and his purse were
ever open to the poor. Under his guidance it was that I
visited the whole neighborhood of Natchez; for he was
acquainted with all its history, from the period at which it
had first come under the power of the Spaniards to that
of their expulsion from the country, its possession by the
French, and subsequently by ourselves. He was also well
250 AUDUBON
versed in the Indian languages, spoke French with the
greatest purity, and was a religious poet. Many a pleas-
ant hour have I.spent in his company; but alas! he has
gone the way of all the earth!
THE LOST PORTFOLIO
WHILE I was at Natchez, on the 31st of December, 1820,
my kind friend, Nicholas Berthoud, Esq., proposed to me
to accompany him in his keel-boat to New Orleans. At
one o’clock the steam-boat “Columbus” hauled off
from the landing and took our bark in tow. The
steamer was soon ploughing along at full speed, and
little else engaged our minds than the thought of our soon
arriving at the emporium of the commerce of the Missis-
sippi. Towards evening, however, several inquiries were
made respecting particular portions of the luggage, among
which ought to have been one of my portfolios, containing
a number of drawings made by me while gliding down the
Ohio and Mississippi from Cincinnati to Natchez, and of
which some were to me peculiarly valuable, being of birds
previously unfigured, and perhaps undescribed. The port-
folio was nowhere to be found, and I recollected that I
had brought it under my arm to the margin of the stream,
and there left it to the care of one of my friend’s ser-
vants, who, in the hurry of our departure, had neglected
to take it on board. Besides the drawings of birds, there
was in this collection a sketch in black chalk to which I
always felt greatly attached while from home. It is true
the features which it represented were indelibly engraved
in my heart; but the portrait of her to whom I owe so
much of the happiness that I have enjoyed was not the
less dear to me. When I thought during the following
night of the loss I had sustained in consequence of my
EPISODES 251
own negligence, imagined the possible fate of the collec-
tion, and saw it in the hands of one of the numerous boat-
men lounging along the shores, who might paste the
drawings to the walls of his cabin, nail them to the steer-
ing-oars of his flatboat, or distribute them among his fel-
lows, I felt little less vexed than I did some years before
when the rats, as you know, devoured a much larger
collection.
It was useless to fret myself, and so I began to devise
a scheme for recovering the drawings. I wrote to Mr.
Garnier and my venerable friend Charles Carré. Mr.
Berthoud also wrote to a mercantile acquaintance. The
letters were forwarded to Natchez from the first landing-
place at which we stopped, and in the course of time we
reached the great eddy running by the levee, or artificial
embankment, at New Orleans. But before I present you
with the answers to the letters sent to our acquaintances
at Natchez, allow me to offer a statement of our adven-
tures upon the Mississippi.
After leaving the eddy at Natchez, we passed a long
file of exquisitely beautiful bluffs. At the end of twenty
hours we reached Bayou Sara, where we found two brigs
at anchor, several steamers, and a number of flatboats,
the place being of considerable mercantile importance.
Here the “Columbus” left us to shift for ourselves, her
commander being anxious to get to Baton Rouge by a
certain hour, in order to secure a good cargo of cotton.
We now proceeded along the great stream, sometimes
floating and sometimes rowing. The shores gradually
became lower and flatter, orange-trees began to make
their appearance around the dwellings of the wealthy
planters, and the verdure along the banks assumed a
brighter tint. The thermometer stood at 68° in the
shade at noon; Butterflies fluttered among the flowers, of
which many were in full blow; and we expected to have
seen Alligators half awake floating on the numberless logs
252 AUDUBON
that accompanied us in our slow progress. The eddies
were covered with Ducks of various kinds, more especially
with the beautiful species that breeds by preference on
the great sycamores that every now and then present
themselves along our southern waters. Baton Rouge is
a very handsome place, but at present I have no time to
describe it. Levees now began to stretch along the river,
and wherever there was a sharp point on the shore, negroes
were there amusing themselves by raising shrimps, and
now and then a catfish, with scooping-nets.
The river increased in breadth and depth, and the saw-
yers and planters, logs so called, diminished in number
the nearer we drew towards the famed city. At every
bend we found the plantations increased, and now the
whole country on both sides became so level and desti-
tute of trees along the water’s edge that we could see
over the points before us, and observe the great stream
stretching along for miles. Within the levees the land is
much lower than the surface of the river when the water
is high; but at this time we could see over the levee
from the deck of our boat only the upper windows of the
planters’ houses, or the tops of the trees about them, and
the melancholy-looking cypresses covered with Spanish
moss forming the background. Persons rode along the
levees at full speed; Pelicans, Gulls, Vultures, and Car-
rion Crows sailed over the stream, and at times there
came from the shore a breeze laden with the delicious
perfume of the orange-trees, which were covered with
blossoms and golden fruits.
Having passed Bayou Lafourche, our boat was brought
to on account of the wind, which blew with violence.
We landed, and presently made our way to the swamps,
where we shot a number of those beautiful birds called
Boat-tailed Grakles. The Mocking-birds on the fence
stakes saluted us with so much courtesy and with such
delightful strains that we could not think of injuring
EPISODES 253
them; but we thought it no harm to shoot a whole covey
of Partridges. In the swamps we met with warblers of
various kinds, lively and beautiful, waiting in these their
winter retreats for the moment when Boreas should retire
to his icy home, and the gentle gales of the South should
waft them toward their breeding-places in the North.
Thousands of Swallows flew about us, the Cat-birds
mewed in answer to their chatterings, the Cardinal Gros-
beak elevated his glowing crest as he stood perched on the
magnolia branch, the soft notes of the Doves echoed among
the woods, nature smiled upon us, and we were happy.
On the fourth of January we stopped at Bonnet Carré,
where I entered a house to ask some questions about
birds. I was received by a venerable French gentleman,
whom I found in charge of about a dozen children of both
sexes, and who was delighted to hear that I was a student
of nature. He was well acquainted with my old friend
Charles Carré, and must, I thought, be a good man, for
he said he never suffered any of his pupils to rob a bird
of her eggs or young, although, said he with a smile,
“they are welcome to peep at them and love them.”
The boys at once surrounded me, and from them I re-
ceived satisfactory answers to most of my queries respect-
ing birds.
The 6th of January was so cold that the thermometer
fell to 30°, and we had seen ice on the running-boards of
our keel-boat. This was quite unlooked for, and we felt
uncomfortable; but before the middle of the day, all
nature was again in full play. Several beautiful steamers
passed us. The vegetation seemed not to have suffered
from the frost; green peas, artichokes, and other vege-
tables were in prime condition. This reminds me that
on one of my late journeys I ate green peas in December
in the Floridas, and had them once a week at least in my
course over the whole of the Union, until I found myself
and my family feeding on the same vegetable more than
254 AUDUBON
a hundred miles to the north of the St. John’s River in
New Brunswick.
Early on the 7th, thousands of tall spars, called masts
by the mariners, came in sight; and as we drew nearer,
we saw the port filled with ships of many nations, each
bearing the flag of its country. At length we reached
the levee, and found ourselves once more at New
Orleans. Ina short time my companions dispersed, and
I commenced a search for something that might tend to
compensate me for the loss of my drawings.
On the 16th of March following, I had the gratification
of receiving a letter from Mr. A. P. Bodley, of Natchez,
informing me that my portfolio had been found and de-
posited at the office of the “Mississippi Republican,”
whence an order from me would liberate it. Through
the kindness of Mr. Garnier, I received it on the 5th of
April. So very generous had been the finder of it, that
when I carefully examined the drawings in succession, I
found them all present and uninjured, save one, which
had probably been kept by way of commission.
THE ORIGINAL PAINTER
As I was lounging one fair and very warm morning on
the levee at New Orleans, I chanced to observe a gen-
tleman whose dress and other accompaniments greatly
attracted my attention. I wheeled about, and followed
him for a short space, when, judging by everything about
him that he was a true original, I accosted him.
But here, kind reader, let me give you some idea of his
exterior. His head was covered by a straw hat, the brim
of which might cope with those worn by the fair sex in
1830; his neck was exposed to the weather; the broad
frill of a shirt, then fashionable, flapped about his breast,
EPISODES 2c8
whilst an extraordinary collar, carefully arranged, fell
over the top of his coat. The latter was of a light green
color, harmonizing well with a pair of flowing yellow
nankeen trousers, and a pink waistcoat, from the bosom
of which, amidst a large bunch of the splendid flowers of
the magnolia, protruded part of a young Alligator, which
seemed more anxious to glide through the muddy waters
of some retired swamp than to spend its life swinging to
and fro among folds of the finest lawn. The gentleman
held in one hand a cage full of richly-plumed Nonpareils,
whilst in the other he sported a silk umbrella, on which
I could plainly read, “ Stolen from I,” these words being
painted in large white characters. He walked as if con-
scious of his own importance — that is, with a good deal of
pomposity, singing, “My love is but a lassie yet,” and
that with such thorough imitation of the Scotch emphasis
that had not his physiognomy brought to my mind a
denial of his being from “within a mile of Edinburgh,”
I should have put him down in my journal for a true Scot.
But no: his tournure, nay, the very shape of his visage,
pronounced him an American from the farthest parts of
our eastern Atlantic shores.
All this raised my curiosity to such a height that I
accosted him with, “ Pray, sir, will you allow me to exam-
ine the birds you have in that cage?” The gentleman
stopped, straightened his body, almost closed his left
eye, then spread his legs apart, and, with a look alto.
gether quizzical, answered, “Birds, sir; did you say
birds?”” I nodded, and he continued, ‘ What the devil
do you know about birds, sir?”
Reader, this answer brought a blush into my face. I
felt as if caught ina trap; for I was struck by the force of
the gentleman’s question— which, by the way, was not
much in discordance with a not unusual mode of granting
an answer in the United States. Sure enough, thought
I, little or perhaps nothing do I know of the nature of
266 AUDUBON
those beautiful denizens of the air; but the next moment
vanity gave me a pinch, and urged me to conceive that I
knew at least as much about birds as the august personage
in my presence. “Sir,” replied I, “I am a student of
Nature, and admire her works, from the noblest figure of
man to the crawling reptile which you have in your
bosom.” — “Ah!” replied he, “a-a-a naturalist, I pre-
sume!” — “Just so, my good sir,” was my answer. The
gentleman gave me the cage; and I observed, from the
corner of one of my eyes, that his were cunningly inspect-
ing my face. I examined the pretty Finches as long as I
wished, returned the cage, made a low bow, and was
about to proceed on my walk, when this odd sort of being
asked me a question quite accordant with my desire of
knowing more of him: “Will you come with me, sir?
If you will, you shall see some more curious birds, some
of which are from different parts of the world. I keep
quite a collection.” I assured him I should feel grati-
fied, and accompanied him to his lodgings.
We entered a long room, where, to my surprise, the
first objects that attracted my attention were a large
easel with a full-length unfinished portrait upon it, a
table with palettes and pencils, and a number of pictures
of various sizes placed along the walls. Several cages
containing birds were hung near the windows, and two
young gentlemen were busily engaged in copying some
finished portraits. I was delighted with all I saw. Each
picture spoke for itself: the drawing, the coloring, the
handling, the composition, and the keeping — all proved,
that, whoever was the artist, he certainly was possessed
of superior talents.
I did not know if my companion was the painter of the
picture, but, as we say in America, I strongly guessed,
and, without waiting any longer, paid him the compli-
ments which I thought he fairly deserved. “Ay,” said
he, “the world is pleased with my work. I wish I were so
‘
EPISODES 257
too; but time and industry are required, as well as talents,
to make a good artist. If you will examine the birds,
I’ll to my labor.” So saying, the artist took up his
palette, and was searching for a rest-stick; but not finding
the one with which he usually supported his hand, he
drew the rod of a gun, and was about to sit, when he sud-
denly threw down his implements on the table, and, tak-
ing the gun, walked to me and asked if “I had ever seen
a percussion-lock.” I had not, for that improvement was
not yet in vogue. He not only explained the superiority
of the lock in question, but undertook to prove that it was
capable of acting effectually under water. The bell was
rung, a flat basin of water was produced, the gun was
charged with powder, and the lock fairly immersed. The
report terrified the birds, causing them to beat against
the gilded walls of their prisons. I remarked this to the
artist. He replied, “The devil take the birds!— more
of them in the market; why, sir, I wish to show you that
I am a marksman as well as a painter.” The easel was
cleared of the large picture, rolled to the further end of
the room, and placed against the wall. The gun was
loaded in a trice, and the painter, counting ten steps from
the easel, and taking aim at the supporting-pin on the
left, fired. The bullet struck the head of the wooden pin
fairly, and sent the splinters in all directions. “A bad
shot, sir,” said this extraordinary person. “The ball ought
to have driven the pin farther into the hole, but it struck
on one side; I’ll try at the hole itself.” After reloading
his piece, the artist took aim again, and fired. The
bullet this time had accomplished its object, for it had
passed through the aperture and hit the wall behind.
“Mr. , ring the bell and close the windows,” said the
painter, and, turning to me, continued, “Sir, I will show
you the xe plus ultra of shooting.” I was quite amazed,
and yet so delighted that I bowed my assent. A servant
having appeared, a lighted candle was ordered. When it
VoL. .—17
258 AUDUBON
arrived, the artist placed it in a proper position, and re-
tiring some yards, put out the light with a bullet, in the
manner which I have elsewhere in this volume described.
When light was restored, I observed the uneasiness of the
poor little Alligator, as it strove to effect its escape from
the artist's waistcoat. I mentioned thistohim. “True,
true,” he replied. “I had quite forgot the reptile; he
shall have a dram;” and unbuttoning his vest, unclasped
a small chain, and placed the Alligator in the basin of
water on the table.
Perfectly satisfied with the acquaintance which I had
formed with this renowned artist, I wished to withdraw,
fearing I might inconvenience him by my presence. But
my time was not yet come. He bade me sit down, and
paying no more attention to the young pupils in the room
than if they had been a couple of cabbages, said, “If you
have leisure and will stay awhile, I will show you how I
paint, and will relate to you an incident of my life which
will prove to you how sadly situated an artist is at times.”
In full expectation that more eccentricities were to be
witnessed, or that the story would prove a valuable one,
even to a naturalist, who is seldom a painter, I seated my-
self at his side, and observed with interest how adroitly
he transferred the colors from his glistening palette to the
canvas before him. I was about to compliment him on
his facility of touch, when he spoke as follows :—
“This is, sir, or, I ought to say rather, this will be the
portrait of one of our best navy officers —a man as brave
as Ceesar, and as good a sailor as ever walked the deck of a
seventy-four. Do you paint, sir?” I replied, “ Not yet.”
— “Not yet! what do you mean?” — “TJ mean what I say:
I intend to paint as soon as I can draw better than I do at
present.” —“ Good,” said he; “you are quite right. To
draw is the first object; but, sir, if you should ever paint,
and paint portraits, you will often meet with difficulties.
For instance, the brave Commodore of whom this is the
EPISODES 259
portrait, although an excellent man at everything else, is
the worst sitter I ever saw; and the incident I promised
to relate to you, as one curious enough, is connected with
his bad mode of sitting. Sir, I forgot to ask if you would
take any refreshment —a glass of wine, or—” I assured
him I needed nothing more than his agreeable company,
and he proceeded. “Well, sir, the first morning that the
Commodore came to sit, he was in full uniform, and with
his sword at his side. After a few moments of conversa-
tion, and when all was ready on my part, I bade him
ascend this ¢hrone, place himself in the attitude which I
contemplated, and assume an air becoming an officer of
the navy. He mounted, placed himself as I had desired,
but merely looked at me as if I had been a block of stone.
I waited a few minutes, when, observing no change on
his placid countenance, I ran the chalk over the canvas
to form a rough outline. This done, I looked up to his
face again, and opened a conversation which I thought
would warm his warlike nature; but in vain. I waited
and waited, talked and talked, until, my patience — sir,
you must know I am not overburdened with phlegm —
being almost run out, I rose, threw my palette and brushes
on the floor, stamped, walking to and fro about the room,
and vociferated such calumnies against our navy that I
startled the good Commodore. He still looked at me
with a placid countenance, and, as he has told me since,
thought I had lost my senses. But I observed him all
the while, and, fully as determined to carry my point as
he would be to carry off an enemy’s ship, I gave my oaths
additional emphasis, addressed him as a representative of
the navy, and, steering somewhat clear of personal insult,
played off my batteries against the craft. The Commo-
dore walked up to me, placed his hand on the hilt of his
sword, and told me, in a resolute manner, that if I in-
tended to insult the navy, he would instantly cut off my
ears. His features exhibited all the spirit and animation
260 AUDUBON
of his noble nature, and as I had now succeeded in rous-
ing the lion, I judged it time to retreat. So, changing
my tone, I begged his pardon, and told him he now looked
precisely as I wished to represent him. He laughed, and,
returning to his seat, assumed a bold countenance. And
now, sir, see the picture!”
At some future period I may present you with other
instances of the odd ways in which this admired artist
gave animation to his sitters. For the present, kind
reader, we shall leave him finishing the Commodore,
while we return to our proper studies.
THE COUGAR
THERE is an extensive swamp in the section of the State
of Mississippi which lies partly in the Choctaw territory.
It commences at the borders of the Mississippi, at no
great distance from a Chickasaw village situated near
the mouth of a creek known by the name of Vanconnah,
and partly inundated by the swellings of several large
bayous, the principal of which, crossing the swamp
in its whole extent, discharges its waters not far from
the mouth of the Yazoo River. This famous bayou
is called False River. The swamp of which I am speak-
ing follows the windings of the Yazoo, until the latter
branches off to the northeast, and at this point forms the
stream named Cold Water River, below which the Yazoo
receives the draining of another bayou inclining towards
the northwest and intersecting that known by the name —
of False River at a short distance from the place where
the latter receives the waters of the Mississippi. This
tedious account of the situation of the swamp is given
with the view of pointing it out to all students of nature
who may happen to go that way, and whom I would ear-
nestly urge to visit its interior, as it abounds in rare and
EPISODES 261
interesting productions, — birds, quadrupeds, and reptiles,
as well as molluscous animals, many of which, I am per-
suaded, have never been described.
In the course of one of my rambles, I chanced to meet
with a squatter’s cabin on the banks of the Cold Water
River. In the owner of this hut, like most of those
adventurous settlers in the uncultivated tracts of our
frontier districts, I found a person well versed in the
chase, and acquainted with the habits of some of the larger:
species of quadrupeds and birds. As he who is desirous
of instruction ought not to disdain listening to any one
who has knowledge to communicate, however humble may
be his lot, or however limited his talents, I entered the
squatter’s cabin, and immediately opened a conversation
with him respecting the situation of the swamp, and its
natural productions. He told me he thought it the very
place I ought to visit, spoke of the game which it con-
tained, and pointed to some Bear and Deer skins, adding
that the individuals to which they had belonged formed
but a small portion of the number of those animals which
he had shot within it. My heart swelled with delight,
and on asking if he would accompany me through the
great morass, and allow me to become an inmate of his
humble but hospitable mansion, I was gratified to find
that he cordially assented to all my proposals. So I im-
mediately unstrapped my drawing materials, laid up my
gun, and sat down to partake of the homely but whole-
some fare intended for the supper of the squatter, his
wife, and his two sons.
The quietness of the evening seemed in perfect accord-
ance with the gentle demeanor of the family. The wife
and children, I more than once thought, seemed to look
upon me as a strange sort of person, going about, as I told
them I was, in search of birds and plants; and were IJ
here to relate the many questions which they put to me
in return for those I addressed to them, the catalogue
262 AUDUBON
would occupy several pages. The husband, a native of
Connecticut, had heard of the existence of such men as
myself, both in our own country and abroad, and seemed
greatly pleased to have me under his roof. Supper over,
I asked my kind host what had induced him to remove to
this wild and solitary spot. “The people are growing
too numerous now to thrive in New England,” was his
answer. I thought of the state of some parts of Europe,
and calculating the denseness of their population com-
pared with that of New England, exclaimed to myself,
“How much more difficult must it be for men to thrive
in those populous countries!” The conversation then
changed, and the squatter, his sons and myself, spoke of
hunting and fishing until at length, tired, we laid our-
selves down on pallets of Bear skins, and reposed in
peace on the floor of the only apartment of which the hut
consisted.
Day dawned, and the squatter’s call to his hogs, which,
being almost in a wild state, were suffered to seek the
greater portion of their food in the woods, awakened me.
Being ready dressed I was not long in joining him. The
hogs and their young came grunting at the well known
call of their owner, who threw them a few ears of corn,
and counted them, but told me that for some weeks their
number had been greatly diminished by the ravages com-
mitted upon them by a large Panther, by which name the
Cougar is designated in America, and that the ravenous
animal did not content himself with the flesh of his pigs,
but now and then carried off one of his calves, notwith-
standing the many attempts he had made to shoot it.
The Painter, as he sometimes called it, had on several
occasions robbed him of a dead Deer; and to these exploits
the squatter added several remarkable feats of audacity
which it had performed, to give me an idea of the formi-
dable character of the beast. Delighted by his descrip-
tion, I offered to assist him in destroying the enemy, at
EPISODES 263
which he was highly pleased, but assured me that unless
some of his neighbors should join us with their dogs and
his own, the attempt would prove fruitless. Soon after,
mounting a horse, he went off to his neighbors several of
whom lived at a distance of some miles, and appointed a
day of meeting.
The hunters, accordingly, made their appearance, one
fine morning, at the door of the cabin, just as the sun was
emerging from beneath the horizon. They were five in
number, and fully equipped for the chase, being mounted
on horses which in some parts of Europe might appear
sorry nags, but which in strength, speed, and bottom, are
better fitted for pursuing a Cougar or a Bear through
woods and morasses than any in that country. A pack of
large, ugly curs were already engaged in making acquaint-
ance with those of the squatter. He and myself mounted
his two best horses, whilst his sons were bestriding others
of inferior quality.
Few words were uttered by the party until we had
reached the edge of the swamp, where it was agreed that
all should disperse and seek for the fresh track of the
Painter, it being previously settled that the discoverer
should blow his horn, and remain on the spot, until the
rest should join him. In less than an hour, the sound of
the horn was clearly heard, and, sticking close to the
squatter, off we went through the thick woods, guided
only by the now and then repeated call of the distant
huntsmen. We soon reached the spot, and in a short
time the rest of the party came up. The best dog was
sent forward to track the Cougar, and in a few moments
the whole pack were observed diligently trailing, and
bearing in their course for the interior of the Swamp.
The rifles were immediately put in trim, and the party
followed the dogs, at separate distances, but in sight of
each other, determined to shoot at no other game than
the Panther.
264 AUDUBON
The dogs soon began to mouth, and suddenly quickened
their pace. My companion concluded that the beast was
on the ground, and putting our horses to a gentle gallop,
we followed the curs, guided by their voices. The noise
of the dogs increased, when, all of a sudden their mode
of barking became altered, and the squatter, urging me
to push on, told me that the beast was ¢veed, by which he
meant that it had got upon some low branch of a large
tree to rest fora few moments, and that-should we not
succeed in shooting him when thus situated, we might
expect a long chase of it. As we approached the spot,
we all by degrees united into a body, but on seeing the
dogs at the foot of a large tree, separated again, and gal-
loped off to surround it.
Each hunter now moved with caution, holding his gun
ready, and allowing the bridle to dangle on the neck of
his horse, as it advanced slowly towards the dogs. A
shot from one of the party was heard, on which the
Cougar was seen to leap to the ground, and bound off
with such velocity as to show that he was very unwilling
to stand our fire longer. The dogs set off in pursuit with
great eagerness and a deafening cry. The hunter who
had fired came up and said that his ball had hit the mon-
ster, and had probably broken one of his fore-legs near
the shoulder, the only place at which he could aim. A
slight trail of blood was discovered on the ground, but
the curs proceeded at such a rate that we merely noticed
this, and put spurs to our horses, which galloped on
towards the centre of the Swamp. One bayou was
crossed, then another still larger and more muddy; but
the dogs were brushing forward, and as the horses began
to pant at a furious rate, we judged it expedient to leave
them and advance on foot. These determined hunters
knew that the Cougar being wounded, would shortly
ascend another tree, where in all probability he would
remain for a considerable time, and that it would be easy
EPISODES 265
to follow the track of the dogs. We dismounted, took off
the saddles and bridles, set the bells attached to the
horses’ necks at liberty to jingle, hoppled the animals,
and left them to shift for themselves.
Now, kind reader, follow the group marching through
the swamp, crossing muddy pools, and making the
best of their way over fallen trees and amongst the
tangled rushes that now and then covered acres of
ground. If you are a hunter yourself, all this will
appear nothing to you; but if crowded assemblies of
“beauty and fashion,” or the quiet enjoyment of your
“pleasure grounds” alone delight you, I must mend my
pen before I attempt to give you an idea of the pleasure
felt on such an expedition.
After marching for a couple of hours, we again heard
the dogs. Each of us pressed forward, elated at the
thought of terminating the career of the Cougar. Some
of the dogs were heard whining, although the greater
number barked vehemently. We felt assured that the
Cougar was treed, and that he would rest for some time
to recover from his fatigue. As we came up to the dogs,
we discovered the ferocious animal lying across a large
branch, close to the trunk of a cotton-wood tree. His
broad breast lay towards us; his eyes were at one time
bent on us and again on the dogs beneath and around him;
one of his fore-legs hung loosely by his side, and he lay
crouched, with his ears lowered close to his head, as if
he thought he might remain undiscovered. Three balls
were fired at him, at a given signal, on which he sprang
a few feet from the branch, and tumbled headlong to
the ground. Attacked on all sides by the enraged curs,
the infuriated Cougar fought with desperate valor; but the
squatter, advancing in front of the party, and almost in
the midst of the dogs, shot him immediately behind and
beneath the left shoulder. The Cougar writhed for a
moment in agony, and in another lay dead.
266 AUDUBON
The sun was now sinking in the west. Two of the
hunters separated from the rest to procure venison, whilst
the squatter’s sons were ordered to make the best of their
way home, to be ready to feed the hogs in the morning.
The rest of the party agreed to camp on the spot. The
Cougar was despoiled of its skin, and its carcass left to
the hungry dogs. Whilst engaged in preparing our camp,
we heard the report of a gun, and soon after one of our
hunters returned with asmall Deer. A fire was lighted,
and each hunter displayed his fone of bread, along with a
flask of whiskey. The deer was skinned in a trice, and
slices placed on sticks before the fire. These materials
afforded us an excellent meal, and as the night grew
darker, stories and songs went round, until my compan-
ions, fatigued, laid themselves down, close under the
smoke of the fire, and soon fell asleep.
I walked for some minutes round the camp, to contem-
plate the beauties of that nature from which I have cer-
tainly derived my greatest pleasures. I thought of the
occurrences of the day, and glancing my eye around, re-
marked the singular effects produced by the phosphores-
cent qualities of the large decayed trunks which lay in all
directions around me. How easy, I thought, would it be
for the confused and agitated mind of a person bewil-
dered in a swamp like this, to imagine in each of these
luminous masses some wondrous and fearful being, the
very sight of which might make the hair stand erect on
his head. The thought of being myself placed in such a
predicament burst over my mind, and I hastened to join
my companions, beside whom I laid me down and slept,
assured that no enemy could approach us without first
rousing the dogs, which were growling in fierce dispute
over the remains of the Cougar.
At daybreak we left our camp, the squatter bearing on
his shoulder the skin of the late destroyer of his stock,
and retraced our steps until we found our horses, which
EPISODES 267
had not strayed far from the place where we had left
them. These we soon saddled, and jogging along, ina
direct course, guided by the sun, congratulating each
other on the destruction of so formidable a neighbor as
the Panther had been, we soon arrived at my host's cabin.
The five neighbors partook of such refreshment as the
house could afford, and dispersing, returned to their
homes, leaving me to follow my favorite pursuits.
THE RUNAWAY
NEVER shall I forget the impression made on my mind
by the rencontre which forms the subject of this article,
and I even doubt if the relation of it will not excite in
that of my reader emotions of varied character.
Late in the afternoon of one of those sultry days which
render the atmosphere of the Louisiana swamps pregnant
with baneful effluvia, I directed my course towards my
distant home, laden with a pack, consisting of five or six
Wood Ibises, and a heavy gun, the weight of which, even
in those days, when my natural powers were unimpaired,
prevented me from moving with much speed. Reaching
the banks of a miry bayou, only a few yards in breadth,
but of which I could not ascertain the depth, on account
of the muddiness of its waters, I thought it might be
dangerous to wade through it with my burden, for which
reason, throwing to the opposite side each of my heavy
birds in succession, together with my gun, powder-flask,
and shot-bag, and drawing my hunting-knife ftom its
scabbard, to defend myself, if need should be, against
Alligators, I entered the water, followed by my faithful
dog. As I advanced carefully, and slowly, “ Plato”
swam around me, enjoying the refreshing influence of the
liquid element that cooled his fatigued and heated frame._
268 AUDUBON
The water deepened, as did the mire of its bed; but with
a stroke or two I gained the shore.
Scarcely had I stood erect on the opposite bank, when
my dog ran to me, exhibiting marks of terror; his eyes
seeming ready to burst from their sockets, and his mouth
grinning with the expression of hatred, while his feelings
found vent in a stifled growl. Thinking that all this was
produced by the scent of a Wolf or Bear, I stooped to take
up my gun, when a stentorian voice commanded me to
“stand still, or die!” Such a gu¢ vive in these woods was
as unexpected asit was rare. I instantly raised and cocked
my gun; and although I did not yet perceive the individual
who had thus issued so peremptory a mandate, I felt de-
termined to combat with him for the free passage of the
grounds. Presently a tall, firmly built negro emerged from
the bushy underwood, where until that moment he must
have been crouched, and in a louder voice repeated his
injunction, Had I pressed a trigger, his life would have
instantly terminated; but observing that the gun which he
aimed at my breast, was a wretched, rusty piece, from
which fire could not readily be produced, I felt little fear,
and therefore did not judge it necessary to proceed at once
to extremities. I laid my gun at my side, tapped my dog
quietly, and asked the man what he wanted.
My forbearance, and the stranger's long habit of sub-
mission, produced the most powerful effect on his mind.
“Master,” said he, “ I am a runaway; I might perhaps
shoot you down; but God forbids it, for I feel just now as
if I saw him ready to pass his judgment against me forsucha
foul deed, and I ask mercy at your hands. For God’s sake,
do not Rill me, master!” ‘“ And why,” answered I, “ have
you left your quarters, where certainly you must have fared
better than in these unwholesome swamps?” “ Master, my
story is a short, but a sorrowful one. My camp is close
by, and, as I know you cannot reach home this night, if
you will follow me there, depend upon my honor you shall
EPISODES 269
be safe until the morning, when I will carry your birds, if
you choose, to the great road.”
The large, intelligent eyes of the negro, the complacency
of his manners, and the tones of his voice, I thought in-
vited me to venture; and as I felt that I was at least his
equal, while moreover, I had my dog to second me, I
answered that I would follow him. He observed the em-
phasis laid on the words, the meaning of which he seemed
to understand so thoroughly that, turning to me, he said,
“ There, master, take my butcher’s knife, while I throw
away the flint and priming from my gun!” Reader, I felt
confounded: this was too much for me: I refused the
knife, and told him to keep his piece ready, in case we
might accidentally meet a Cougar or a Bear.
Generosity exists everywhere. The greatest monarch
acknowledges its impulse, and all around him, from the
lowliest menial to the proud nobles that encircle his throne,
at-times experience that overpowering sentiment. I offered
to shake hands with the runaway. ‘ Master,” said he, “I
beg you thanks,” and with this he gave me a squeeze that
alike impressed me with the goodness of his heart and his
great physical strength. From that moment we proceeded
through the woods together. My dog smelt at him several
times, but as he heard me speak in my usual tone of voice,
he soon left us and rambled around as long as my whistle
was unused. As we proceeded, I observed that he was
guiding me towards the setting of the sun, and quite con-
trary to my homeward course. I remarked this to him,
when he with the greatest simplicity replied, ‘‘ Merely for
our security.”
After trudging along for some distance, and crossing
several bayous, at all of which he threw his gun and knife
to the opposite bank, and stood still until I had got over,
we came to the borders of an immense cane-brake, from
which I had, on former occasions, driven and killed several
Deer. We entered, as I had frequently done before, now
270 AUDUBON
erect, then on ‘‘all fours.” He regularly led the way,
divided here and there the tangled stalks, and, whenever
we reached a fallen tree, assisted me in getting over it,
with all possible care. I saw that he was a perfect Indian
in his knowledge of the woods, for he kept a direct course
as precisely as any “ Red-skin”’ I ever travelled with. All
of a sudden he emitted a loud shriek, not unlike that of an
Owl, which so surprised me, that I once more instantly
levelled my gun. ‘No harm, master, I only give notice
to my wife and children I am coming.” A tremulous
answer of the same nature gently echoed through the tree
tops. The runaway’s lips separated with an expression of
gentleness and delight, when his beautiful set of ivory
teeth seemed to smile through the dusk of evening that
was thickening around us. “Master,” said he, “my
wife, though black, is as beautiful to me as the President’s
wife is to him; she is my queen, and I look on our young
ones as so many princes; but you shall see them all, for
here they are, thank God.”
There, in the heart of the cane-brake, I found a regular
camp. A small fire was lighted, and on its embers lay
gridling some large slices of venison. A lad nine or ten
years old was blowing the ashes from some fine sweet
potatoes. Various articles of household furniture were
carefully disposed around, and a large pallet of Bear and
Deer skins, seemed to be the resting-place of the whole
family. The wife raised not her eyes towards mine, and
the little ones, three in number, retired into a corner, like
so many discomfited Raccoons; but the Runaway, bold,
and apparently happy, spoke to them in such cheering
words, that at once one and all seemed to regard me as
one sent by Providence to relieve them from all their
troubles. My clothes were hung up by them to dry, and
the negro asked if he might clean and grease my gun,
which I permitted him to do, while the wife threw a large
piece of Deer’s flesh to my dog, which the children were
already caressing.
EPISODES 271
Only think of my situation, reader! Here I was, ten
‘miles at least from home, and four or five from the nearest
plantation, in the camp of runaway slaves, and quite at
their mercy. My eyes involuntarily followed their motions,
but as I thought I perceived in them a strong desire to
make me their confidant and friend, I gradually relin-
quished all suspicions. The venison and potatoes looked
quite tempting, and by this time I was in a condition to
relish much less savory fare; so, on being humbly asked
to divide the viands before us, I partook of as hearty a
meal as I had ever done in my life.
Supper over, the fire was completely extinguished, and
a small lighted pine-knot placed in a hollowed calabash.
Seeing that both the husband and the wife were desirous
of communicating something to me, I at once and fear-
lessly desired them to unburden their minds, when the
Runaway told me a tale of which the following is the
substance.
About eighteen months before, a planter, residing not
very far off, having met with some losses, was obliged to
expose his slaves ata publicsale. The value of his negroes
was well known, and on the appointed day the auctioneer
laid them out in small lots, or offered them singly, in the
manner which he judged most advantageous to their owner.
The Runaway, who was well known as being the most
valuable next to his wife, was put up by himself for sale,
and brought an immoderate price. For his wife, who came
next, and alone, eight hundred dollars were bidden and
paid down. Then the children were exposed, and, on
account of their breed, brought high prices. The rest
of the slaves went off at rates corresponding to their
qualifications.
The Runaway chanced to be bought by the overseer of
the plantation; the wife was bought by an individual re-
siding about a hundred miles off, and the children went to
different places along the river. The heart of the husband
272 AUDUBON
and father failed him under this dire calamity. For awhile
he pined in sorrow under his new master; but having
marked down in his memory the names of the different
persons who had purchased each dear portion of his family,
he feigned illness, if indeed, he whose affections had been
so grievously blasted could be said to feign it, refrained
from food for several days, and was little regarded by the
overseer, who felt himself disappointed in what he had
considered a bargain.
On a stormy night, when the elements raged with all
the fury of a hurricane, the poor negro made his escape,
and being well acquainted with all the neighboring
swamps, at once made directly for the cane-brake in the
centre of which I found his camp. A few nights after-
wards he gained the abode of his wife, and the very next
after their meeting, he led her away. The children, one
after another, he succeeded in stealing, until at last the
whole of the objects of his love were under his care.
To provide for five individuals was no easy task in those
wilds, which after the first notice was given of the wonder-
ful disappearance of this extraordinary family, were daily
ransacked by armed planters. Necessity, it is said, will
bring the Wolf from the forest. The Runaway seems to
have well understood the maxim, for under the cover of
night he approached his first master’s plantation, where he
had ever been treated with the greatest kindness. The
house-servants knew him too well not to aid him to the
best of their power, and at the approach of each morning
he returned to his camp with an ample supply of provisions.
One day, while in search of wild fruits, he found a Bear dead
before the muzzle of a gun that had been set for the pur-
pose. Both articles he carried to his home. His friends
at the plantation managed to supply him with some am-
munition, and on damp and cloudy days he first ventured
to hunt around his camp. Possessed of courage and
activity, he gradually became more careless, and rambled
EPISODES 273
farther in search of game. It was on one of his excursions
that I met him, and he assured me the noise which I made
in passing the bayou had caused him to lose the chance of
killing a fine Deer, “ although,” said he, “my old musket
misses fire sadly too often.”
The Runaways, after disclosing their secret to me, both
rose from their seat, with eyes full of tears. ‘Good
master, for God’s sake, do something for us and our
children,” they sobbed forth with one accord. Their little
ones lay sound asleep in the fearlessness of their innocence.
Who could have heard such a tale without emotion? I
promised them my most cordial assistance. They both
sat up that night to watch my repose, and I slept close to
their urchins, as if on a bed of the softest down.
Day broke so fair, so pure, and so gladdening that I
told them such heavenly appearances were ominous of
good, and that I scarcely doubted of obtaining their
full pardon. I desired them to take their children with
them, and promised to accompany them to the plantation
of their first master. They gladly obeyed. My Ibises
were hung round their camp, and, as a memento of my
having been there, I notched several trees; after which I
bade adieu, perhaps for the last time, to that cane-brake.
We soon reached the plantation, the owner of which, with
whom I was well acquainted, received me with all the
generous kindness of a Louisiana planter. Ere an hour
had elapsed, the Runaway and his family were looked
upon as his own. He afterwards repurchased them from
their owners, and treated them with his former kindness;
so that they were rendered as happy as slaves generally
are in that country, and continued to cherish that attach-
ment to each other which had led to their adventures.
Since this event happened, it has, I have been informed,
become illegal to separate slave families without their
consent.
VOL, 11.—18
274 AUDUBON
7
A TOUGH WALK FOR A YOUTH
ABOUT twelve years ago I was conveyed, along with my
son Victor, from Bayou Sara to the mouth of the Ohio,
on board the steamer “ Magnet,’ commanded by Mr.
McKnight, to whom I here again offer my best thanks
for his attentions. The very sight of the waters of that
beautiful river filled me with joy as we approached the
little village of Trinity, where we were landed along with
several other passengers, the water being too low to enable
the vessel to proceed to Louisville. No horses could be
procured, and as I was anxious to continue my journey
without delay, I consigned my effects to the care of the
tavern-keeper, who engaged to have them forwarded by
the first opportunity. My son, who was not fourteen, with
all the ardor of youth, considered himself able to accom-
plish, on foot, the long journey which we contemplated.
Two of the passengers evinced a desire to accompany us,
“ provided,” said the tallest and stoutest of them, “‘ the lad
can keep up. My business,” he continued, “is urgent,
and I shall push for Frankfort pretty fast.” Dinner, to
which we had contributed some fish from the river, being
over, my boy and I took a ramble along the shores of
Cash Creek, on which, some years before, I had been
detained several weeks by ice. We slept at the tavern,
and next morning prepared for our journey, and were
joined by our companions, although it was past twelve
before we crossed the creek.
One of our fellow-travellers, named Rose, who was a
delicate and gentlemanly person, acknowledged that he
was not a good walker, and said he was glad that my son
was with us, as he might be able to keep up with the lively
youth. The other, a burly personage, at once pushed
forwards. We walked in Indian file along the narrow
track cut through the canes, passed a wood-yard, and
VICTOR GIFFORD AUDUBON.
PAINTED BY AUDUBON ABOUT 1823.
EPISODES 275
entered the burnt forest, in which we met with so many
logs and briers that we judged it better to make for the
river, the course of which we followed over a bed of peb-
bles, my son sometimes ahead, and again falling back,
until we reached America, a village having a fine situation,
but with a shallow approach to the shore. Here we halted
at the best house, as every traveller ought to do, whether
pedestrian or equestrian, for he is there sure of being well
treated, and will not have to pay more than in an inferior
place. Now we constituted Mr. Rose purser. We had
walked twelve miles over rugged paths and pebbly shores,
and soon proceeded along the edge of the river. Seven
tough miles ended, we found a house near the bank, and
in it we determined to pass the night. The first person we
met with was a woman picking cotton in a small field. On
asking her if we might stay in her cabin for the night, she
answered we might, and hoped we could make shift with
the fare on which she and her husband lived. While
she went to the house to prepare supper, I took my son
and Mr. Rose to the water, knowing how much we should
be refreshed by a bath. Our fellow-traveller refused, and
stretched himself on a bench by the door. The sun was
setting; thousands of Robins were flying southward in the
calm and clear air; the Ohio was spread before us smooth
as a mirror, and into its waters we leaped with pleasure.
In a short time the good man of the hut called us to sup-
per, and ina trice we were at his heels. He was a tall,
raw-boned fellow, with an honest, bronzed face. After our
frugal meal we all four lay down on a large bed, spread
on the floor, while the good people went up to a loft.
The woodsman, having, agreeably to our instructions,
roused us at daybreak, told us that about seven miles
farther we should meet with a breakfast much better than
the last supper we had. He refused any pecuniary com-
pensation, but accepted from me a knife. So we again
started. My dear boy appeared very weak at first, but
276 AUDUBON
soon recovered, and our stout companion, whom I shall
call S., evidently showed symptoms of lassitude. On
arriving at the cabin of a lazy man, blessed with an indus-
trious wife and six healthy children, all of whom labored
for his support, we were welcomed by the woman, whose
motions and language indicated her right to belong toa
much higher class. Better breakfast I never ate: the
bread was made of new corn, ground on a tin grater by
the beautiful hands of our blue-eyed hostess; the chickens
had been prepared by one of her lovely daughters; some
good coffee was added, and my son had fresh milk. The
good woman, who now held a babe to her bosom, seemed
pleased to see how heartily we all ate ; the children went
to work, and the lazy husband went to the door to smokea
corn-cob pipe. A dollar was put into the ruddy hand of the
chubby urchin, and we bade its mother farewell. Again
we trudged along the beach, but after a while betook our-
selves to the woods. My son became faint. Dear boy!
never can I forget how he lay exhausted on a log, large
tears rolling down his cheeks. I bathed his temples, spoke
soothingly to him, and chancing to see a fine Turkey Cock
run close by, directed his attention to it, when, as if suddenly
refreshed, he got up and ran a few yards towards the bird.
From that moment he seemed to acquire new vigor, and at
length we reached Wilcox’s, where we stopped for the night.
We were reluctantly received at the house, and had little
attention paid to us, but we had a meal and went to bed.
The sun rose in all its splendor, and the Ohio reflected
its ruddy beams. A finer view of that river can scarcely
be obtained than that from the house which we were leav-
ing. Two miles through intricate woods brought us to
Belgrade, and having passed Fort Massacre, we halted and
took breakfast. S. gave us to understand that the want of
roads made travelling very unpleasant; he was not, he
added, in the habit of “skulking through the bushes, or
tramping over stony bars in the full sunshine;” but how
EPISODES 277
else he had travelled was not explained. Mr. Rose kept
up about as well as Victor, and I now led the way.
Towards sunset we reached the shores of the river, op-
posite the mouth of the Cumberland. On a hill, the
property of a Major B., we found a house, and a solitary
woman, wretchedly poor, but very kind. She assured us
that if we could not cross the river, she would give us food
and shelter for the night, but said that, as the moon was
up, she could get us put over when her skiff came back.
Hungry and fatigued, we laid us down on the brown grass,
waiting either a scanty meal or the skiff that was to con-
vey us across the river. I had already grated the corn for
our supper, run down the chickens, and made a fire, when
a cry of “ Boat coming!” roused us all. We crossed half
of the Ohio, walked over Cumberland Isle, and after a short
ferry found ourselves in Kentucky, the native land of my
beloved sons. I was now within a few miles of the spot
where, some years before, I had a horse killed under me
by lightning.
It is unnecessary to detain you with a long narrative,
and state every occurrence till we reached the banks of
Green River. We had left Trinity at twelve o’clock of the
15th of October, and on the morning of the 18th four
travellers, descending a hill, were admiring the reflection
of the sun’s rays on the forest-margined horizon. The frost,
which lay thick on the ground and the fences, glittered in
the sheen, and dissolved away; all nature seemed beautiful
in its calm repose; but the pleasure which I felt in gazing
on the scene was damped by the fatigue of my son, who
now limped like a lamed Turkey, although, as the rest of
the party were not much better off, he smiled, straightened
himself, and strove to keep up with us. Poor S. was pant-
ing many yards behind, and was talking of purchasing a
horse. We had now, however, a tolerably good road, and
in the evening got to a house, where I inquired if we could
have a supper and beds. When I came out, Victor was
278 AUDUBON
asleep on the grass, Mr. Rose looking at his sore toes, and
S. just finishing a jug of monongahela. Here we resolved
that, instead of going by Henderson, we should take a cut
across to the right, and make direct for Smith’s Ferry, by
way of Highland Lick Creek.
Next day we trudged along, but nothing very remarkable
occurred excepting that we saw a fine black Wolf, quite
tame and gentle, the owner of which refused a hundred
dollars for it. Mr. Rose, who was an engineer, and a man
of taste, amused us with his flageolet, and frequently spoke
of his wife, his children, and his fireside, which increased
my good opinion of him. Atan orchard we filled our
pockets with October peaches, and when we came to Trade
Water River we found it quite low. The acorns were
already drifted on its shallows, and the Wood Ducks were
running about picking them up. Passing a flat bottom, we
saw a large Buffalo Lick. "Where now are the bulls which
erst scraped its earth away, bellowing forth their love or
their anger?
Good Mr, Rose’s feet became sorer and sorer each suc-
ceeding day; Mr. S. at length nearly gave up; my son had
grown brisker. The 20th was cloudy, and we dreaded
rain, as we knew the country to be flat and clayey. In
Union County, we came to a large opening, and found the
house of a justice, who led us kindly to the main road, and
accompanied us fora mile, giving us excellent descriptions
of brooks, woods, and barrens; notwithstanding which we
should have been much puzzled, had not a neighbor on
horseback engaged to showus the way. The rain now fell
in torrents and rendered us very uncomfortable, but at
length we reached Highland Lick, where we stumbled on
a cabin, the door of which we thrust open, overturning a
chair that had been placed behind it. On a dirty bed lay
aman, a table with a journal or perhaps a ledger before
him, a small cask in a corner near him, a brass pistol on
a nail over his head, and a long Spanish dagger by his
EPISODES 279
side. He rose and asked what was wanted. “The way
to a better place, the road to Suggs’s.” “ Follow the road,
and you’ll get to his house in about five miles!” My
party were waiting for me, warming themselves by the
fires of the salt-kettles. The being I had seen was an over-
seer. By and by we crossed a creek; the country was
hilly, clayey, and slippery; Mr. S. was cursing, Rose
limped like a lame Duck, but Victor kept up like a
veteran.
Another day, kind reader, and I shall for a while shut
my journal. The morning of the 21st was beautiful; we
had slept comfortably at Suggs’s, and we soon found our-
selves on pleasant barrens, with an agreeable road, Rose
and S. were so nearly knocked up that they proposed to us
to goon without them. We halted and talked a few minutes
on the subject, when our companions stated their resolu-
tion to proceed at a slower pace. So we bade them
adieu. I asked my son how he felt; he laughed and
quickened his steps; and in a short time our former as-
sociates were left out of sight. In about two hours we
were seated in the Green River Ferry-boat, with our legs
hanging in the water. At Smith’s Ferry this stream looks
like a deep lake; and the thick cane on its banks, the large
overhanging willows, and its dark, green waters, never fail
to form a fine picture, more especially in the calm of an
autumnal evening. Mr. Smith gave us a good supper,
sparkling cider, and a comfortable bed. It was arranged
that he should drive us to Louisville in his dearborn; and
so ended our walk of two hundred and fifty miles. Should
you wish to accompany us during the remainder of our
journey I have only to refer you to the article “‘ Hospitality
in the Woods.”
280 AUDUBON
HOSPITALITY IN THE WOODS
HOSPITALITY is a virtue the exercise of which, although
always agreeable to the stranger, is not always duly
appreciated. The traveller who has acquired celebrity
is not unfrequently received with a species of hospi-
tality which is much alloyed by the obvious attention
of the host to his own interest; and the favor con-
ferred upon the stranger must have less weight when it
comes mingled with almost interminable questions as to
his perilous adventures. Another receives hospitality at
the hands of persons who, possessed of all the comforts of
life, receive the way-worn wanderer with pomposity, lead
him from one part of their spacious mansion to another,
and bidding him good-night, leave him to amuse himself
in his solitary apartment, because he is thought unfit to
be presented to a party of friends. A third stumbles on
a congenial spirit, who receives him with open arms, offers
him servants, horses, perhaps even his purse, to enable
him to pursue his journey, and parts from him with regret.
In all these cases the traveller feels more or less under
obligation, and is accordingly grateful. But, kind reader,
the hospitality received from the inhabitant of the forest,
who can offer only the shelter of his humble roof and
the refreshment of his homely fare, remains more deeply
impressed on the memory of the bewildered traveller
than any other. This kind of hospitality I have myself
frequently experienced in our woods, and now proceed
to relate an instance of it.
I had walked several hundred miles, accompanied by my
son, then a stripling, and, coming upon a clear stream,
observed a house on the opposite shore. We crossed in a
canoe, and finding that we had arrived at a tavern, deter-
mined upon spending the night there. As we were both
greatly fatigued, I made an arrangement with our host to be
EPISODES 281
conveyed in a light Jersey wagon a distance of a hundred
miles, the period of our departure to be determined by
the rising of the moon. Fair Cynthia, with her shorn
beams, peeped over the forest about two hours before
dawn, and our conductor, provided with a long twig of
hickory, took his station in the fore-part of the wagon.
Off we went at a round trot, dancing in the cart like peas
inasieve. The road, which was just wide enough to allow
us to pass, was full of deep ruts, and covered here and
there with trunks and stumps, over all which we were
hurried. Our conductor, Mr. Flint, the landlord of the
tavern, boasting of his perfect knowledge of the country,
undertook to drive us by a short cut, and we willingly
confided ourselves to his management. So we jogged
along, now and then deviating to double the fallen timber.
Day commenced with promise of fine weather, but several
nights of white frost having occurred, a change was ex-
pected. To our sorrow, the change took place long
before we got to the road again. The rain fell in torrents;
the thunder bellowed;:the lightning blazed. It was now
evening, but the storm had brought perfect night, black
and dismal. Our cart had no cover. Cold and wet, we
sat silent and melancholy, with no better expectation than
that of passing the night under the little shelter the cart
could afford us.
To stop was considered worse than to proceed. So we
gave the reins to the horses, with some faint hope that they
would drag us out of our forlorn state. Of a sudden the
steeds altered their course, and soon after we perceived
the glimmer of a faint light in the distance, and almost at
the same moment heard the barking of dogs. Our horses
stopped by a high fence and fell a-neighing, while I
hallooed at such a rate that an answer was speedily
obtained. The next moment a flaming pine torch crossed
the gloom, and advanced to the spot where we stood.
The negro boy who bore it, without waiting to question
282 AUDUBON
us, enjoined us to follow the fence, and said that Master
had sent him to show the strangers to the house. We
proceeded, much relieved, and soon reached the gate of a
little yard, in which a small cabin was perceived.
A tall, fine-looking young man stood in the open door,
and desired us get out of the cart and walk in. We did
so, when the following conversation took place. “A bad
night this, strangers; how came you to be along the fence?
You certainly must have lost your way, for there is no
public road within twenty miles.” ‘ Ay,” answered Mr.
Flint, ‘sure enough we lost our way; but, thank God! we
have got to a house; and thank you for your reception.”
“Reception!” replied the woodsman; “no very great
thing after all; you are all here safe, and that’s enough.
Eliza,” turning to his wife, “see about some victuals for
the strangers, and you, Jupiter,” addressing the negro lad,
“bring some wood and mend the fire. Eliza, call the
boys up, and treat the strangers the best way you can.
Come, gentlemen, pull off your wet clothes, and draw to
the fire. Eliza, bring some socks and a shirt or two.”
For my part, kind reader, knowing my countrymen as I
do, I was not much struck at all this; but my son, who
had scarcely reached the age of thirteen, drew near to
me, and observed how pleasant it was to have met with
such good people. Mr. Flint bore a hand in getting
his horses put under a shed. The young wife was already
stirring with so much liveliness that to have doubted for
a moment that all she did was a pleasure to her would
have been impossible. Two negro lads made their
appearance, looked at us for a moment, and going out,
called the dogs. Soon after the cries of the poultry in-
formed us that good cheer was at hand. Jupiter brought
more wood, the blaze of which illumined the cottage. Mr.
Flint and our host returned, and we already began to feel
the comforts of hospitality. The woodsman remarked
that it was a pity we had not chanced to come that day
EPISODES. 283
three weeks; “for,” said he, “it was our wedding-day,
and father gave us a good house-warming, and you might
have fared better; but, however, if you can eat bacon
and eggs, and a broiled chicken, you shall have that.
I have no whiskey in the house, but father has some
capital cider, and I’ll go over and bring a keg of it.”
I asked how far off his father lived. ‘“ Only three miles,
sir, and I’ll be back before Eliza has cooked your sup-
per.” Off he went accordingly, and the next moment the
galloping of his horse was heard. The rain fell in tor-
rents, and now I also became struck with the kindness of
our host.
To all appearance the united ages of the pair under
whose roof we had found shelter did not exceed two
score. Their means seemed barely sufficient to render
them comfortable, but the generosity of their young
hearts had no limits. The cabin was new. The logs
of which it was formed were all of the tulip-tree, and
were nicely pared. Every part was beautifully clean.
Even the coarse slabs of wood ‘that formed the floor
looked as if newly washed and dried. Sundry gowns
and petticoats of substantial homespun hung from the
logs that formed one of the sides of the cabin, while
the other was covered with articles of male attire. A
large spinning-wheel, with rolls of wool and cotton, oc-
cupied one corner. In another was a small cupboard,
containing the little stock of new dishes, cups, plates,
and tin pans. The table was small also, but quite new,
and as bright as polished walnut could be. The only
bed that I saw was of domestic manufacture, and the
counterpane proved how expert the young wife was at
spinning and weaving. A fine rifle ornamented the
chimney-piece. The fireplace was of such dimensions
that it looked as if it had been purposely constructed
for holding the numerous progeny expected to result
from the happy union.
284 AUDUBON
The black boy was engaged in grinding some coffee,
Bread was prepared by the fair hands of the bride, and
placed on a flat board in front of the fire. The bacon
and eggs already murmured and spluttered in the frying-
pan, and a pair of chickens puffed and swelled on a grid-
iron over the embers, in front of the hearth. The cloth
was laid, and everything arranged, when the clattering
of hoofs announced the return of the husband. In he
came, bearing a two-gallon keg of cider. His eyes
sparkled with pleasure as he said, ‘Only think, Eliza;
father wanted to rob us of the strangers, and was for
coming here to ask them to his own house, just as if we
could not give them enough ourselves; but here’s the
drink. Come, gentlemen, sit down and help yourselves.”
We did so, and I, to enjoy the repast, took a chair of the
husband’s making, in preference to one of those called
Windsor, of which there were six in the cabin. This
chair was bottomed with a piece of Deer’s skin tightly
stretched, and afforded a very comfortable seat.
The wife now resumed her spinning, and the husband
filled a jug with the sparkling cider, and, seated by the
blazing fire, was drying his clothes. The happiness he
enjoyed beamed from his eye, as at my request he
proceeded to give us an account of his affairs and
prospects, which he did in the following words: ‘“ I shall
be twenty-two next Christmas-day,” said our host. ‘My
father came from Virginia when young, and settled on the
large tract of land where he yet lives, and where with
hard working he has done well. There were nine chil-
dren of us. Most of them are married and settled in the
neighborhood. The old man has divided his lands among
some of us, and bought others for the rest. The land
where I am he gave me two years ago, and a finer piece
is not easily to be found. I have cleared a couple of
fields, and planted an orchard. Father gave me a stock
of cattle, some hogs, and four horses, with two negro
EPISODES 285
boys. I camped here for most of the time when clearing
and planting; and when about to marry the young woman
you see at the wheel, father helped me in raising this
hut. My wife, as luck would have it, had a negro also,
and we have begun the world as well off as most folks,
and, the Lord willing, may— But, gentlemen, you don’t
eat; do help yourselves. Eliza, maybe the strangers
would like some milk.” The wife stopped her work, and
kindly asked if we preferred sweet or sour milk; for you
must know, reader, that sour milk is by some of our
farmers considered a treat. Both sorts were produced,
but, for my part, I chose to stick to the cider.
Supper over, we all neared the fire, and engaged in
conversation. At length our kind host addressed his wife
as follows: “Eliza, the gentlemen would like to lie down,
I guess. What sort of bed can you fix for them?” Eliza
looked up with a smile, and said: ‘ Why, Willy, we will
divide the bedding, and arrange half on the floor, on
which we can sleep very well, and the gentlemen will have
the best we can spare them,” To this arrangement I im-
mediately objected, and proposed lying on a blanket by
the fire; but neither Willy nor Eliza would listen. So
they arranged a part of their bedding on the floor, on
which, after some debate, we at length settled. The
negroes were sent to their own cabin, the young couple
went to bed, and Mr. Flint lulled us all asleep with a long
story intended to show us how passing strange it was that
he should have lost his way.
“Tired nature’s sweet restorér, balmy sleep,” and so
forth. But Aurora soon turned her off. Mr. Speed, our
host, rose, went to the door, and returning assured us that
the weather was too bad for us to attempt proceeding.
I really believe he was heartily glad of it; but anxious to
continue our journey, I desired Mr. Flint to see about his
horses. Eliza by this time was up too, and I observed her
whispering to her husband, when he immediately said
286 AUDUBON
aloud, “To be sure, the gentlemen will eat breakfast be-
fore they go, and I will show them the way to the road.”
Excuses were of no avail. Breakfast was prepared and
eaten. The weather brightened a little, and by nine we
were under way. Willy, on horseback, headed us. Ina
few hours our cart arrived at a road, by following which we
at length got to the main one, and parted from our woods-
man with the greater regret that he would accept nothing
from any of us. On the contrary, telling Mr. Flint, with
a smile, that he hoped he might some time again follow
the longest track for a short cut, he bade us adieu, and
trotted back to his fair Eliza and his happy home.
NIAGARA
AFTER wandering on some of our great lakes for many
months, I bent my course towards the celebrated Falls
of Niagara, being desirous of taking a sketch of them.
This was not my first visit to them, and I hoped it should
not be the last.
Artists (I know not if I can be called one) too often
imagine that what they produce must be excellent, and
with that foolish idea go on spoiling much paper and can-
vas, when their time might have been better employed in
a different manner. But, digressions aside, I directed
my steps towards the Falls of Niagara, with. the view of
representing them on paper, for the amusement of my
family.
Returning as I then was from a tedious journey, and
possessing little more than some drawings of rare birds
and plants, I reached the tavern at Niagara Falls in such
plight as might have deterred many an individual from
obtruding himself upon a circle of well-clad and perhaps
well-bred society. Months had passed since the last of
my linen had been taken from my body, and used to clean
EPISODES 287
that useful companion, my gun. I was in fact covered
just like one of the poorer class of Indians, and was ren-
dered even more disagreeable to the eye of civilized man
by not having, like them, plucked my beard, or trimmed
my hair in any way. Had Hogarth been living, and there
when I arrived, he could not havé found a fitter subject
for a Robinson Crusoe. My beard covered my neck in
front, my hair fell much lower at my back, the leather
dress which I wore had for months stood in need of repair,
a large knife hung at my side, a rusty tin-box containing
my drawings and colors, and wrapped up in a worn-out
blanket that had served me for a bed, was buckled to my
shoulders. To every one I must have seemed immersed
in the depths of poverty, perhaps of despair. Neverthe-
less, as I cared little about my appearance during those
happy rambles, I pushed into the sitting-room, unstrapped
my little burden, and asked how soon breakfast would be
ready.
In America, no person is ever refused entrance to the
inns, at least far from cities. We know too well how
many poor creatures are forced to make their way from
other countries in search of employment or to seek un-
cultivated land, and we are ever ready to let them have
what they may call for. No one knew who I was, and the
landlord, looking at me with an eye of close scrutiny,
answered that breakfast would be on the table as soon
as the company should come down from their rooms. I
approached this important personage, told him of my
avocations, and convinced him that he might feel safe as
to remuneration. From this moment I was, with him at
least, on equal footing with every other person in his
house. He talked a good deal of the many artists who
had visited the Falls that season, from different parts, and
offered to assist me by giving such accommodations as I
might require to finish the drawings I had in contempla-
tion. He left me, and as I looked about the room I saw
288 AUDUBON
several views of the Falls, by which I was so disgusted
that I suddenly came to my better senses. ‘“ What!”
thought I, “have I come here to mimic nature in her
grandest enterprise, and add my caricature of one of the
wonders of the world to those which I here see? No;
I give up the vain attempt. 1 shall look on these mighty
cataracts and imprint them, where alone they can be
represented — on my mind!”
Had I taken a view, I might as well have given you
what might be termed a regular account of the form, the
height, the tremendous roar of these Falls; might have
spoken of people perilling their lives by going between the
rock and the sheet of water, calculated the density of the
atmosphere in that strange position, related wondrous
tales of Indians and their canoes having been precipitated
the whole depth — might have told of the narrow, rapid,
and rockbound river that leads the waters of the Erie into
those of Ontario, remarking ex passant the Devil’s Hole
and sundry other places or objects. But, supposing you
had been there, my description would prove useless, and
quite as puny as my intended view would have been for
my family; and should you not have seen them, and are
fond of contemplating the more magnificent of the Crea-
tor’s works, go to Niagara, reader; for all the pictures you
may see, all the descriptions you may read, of these
mighty Falls, can only produce in your mind the faint
glimmer of a glow-worm compared with the overpowering
glory of the meridian sun.
I breakfasted amid a crowd of strangers, who gazed and
laughed at me, paid my bill, rambled about and admired
the Falls for a while, saw several young gentlemen sketch-
ing on cards the mighty mass of foaming waters, and
walked to Buffalo, where I purchased new apparel and
sheared my beard. I then enjoyed civilized life as much
as, a month before, I had enjoyed the wildest solitudes
and the darkest recesses of mountain and forest.
EPISODES 289
MEADVILLE
THE incidents that occur in the life of a student of
nature are not all of the agreeable kind; in proof of
which I shall present you, good reader, with an extract
from one of my journals.
My money was one day stolen from me, by a person
who perhaps imagined that to a naturalist it was of little
importance. This happened on the shores of Upper
Canada. The affair was as unexpected as it well could be,
and as adroitly managed as if it had been planned and
executed in Cheapside. To have repined when the thing
could not be helped would certes not have been acting
manfully. I therefore told my companion to keep a good
heart, for I felt satisfied that Providence had some relief in
store for us. The whole amount of cash left with two
individuals fifteen hundred miles from home was just seven
dollars and a half. Our passage across the lake had for-
tunately been paid for. We embarked and soon got to the
entrance of Presque Isle Harbor, but could not pass the
bar, on account of a violent gale which came on as we
approached it. The anchor was dropped, and we remained
on board during the night, feeling at times very disagree-
able, under the idea of having taken so little care of our
money. How long we might have remained at anchor I
cannot tell, had not that Providence on whom I have never
ceased to rely come to our aid. Through some means to
me quite unknown, Captain Judd, of the U. S. Navy, then
probably commandant at Presque Isle, sent a gig with six
men to our relief. It was onthe 29th of August, 1824, and
never shall I forget that morning. My drawings were put
into the boat with the greatest care. We shifted into it,
and seated ourselves according to directions politely given
us. Our brave fellows pulled hard, and every moment
brought us nearer to the American shore. I leaped upon
‘VOL. 11, —-19
290 AUDUBON
it with elated heart. My drawings were safely landed, and
for anything else I cared little at the moment. I searched
in vain for the officer of our navy, to whom I still feel
grateful, and gave one of our dollars to the sailors to drink
the “ freedom of the waters; ” after which we betook our-
selves to a humble inn to procure bread and milk, and
consider how we were to proceed.
Our plans were soon settled, for to proceed was decidedly
the best. Our luggage was rather heavy, so we hired a
cart to take it to Meadville, for which we offered five
dollars. This sum was accepted, and we set off. The
country through which we passed might have proved
favorable to our pursuits, had it not rained nearly the
whole day. At night we alighted and put up at a house
belonging to our conductor’s father. It was Sunday night.
The good folks had not yet returned from a distant meeting-
house, the grandmother of our driver being the only indi-
vidual about the premises. We found hera cheerful dame,
who bestirred herself as actively as age would permit, got
up a blazing fire to dry our wet clothes, and put as much
bread and milk on the table as might have sufficed for sev-
eral besides ourselves.
Being fatigued by the jolting of the cart, we asked for a
place in which to rest, and were shown into a room in
which were several beds. We told the good woman that I
should paint her portrait next morning for the sake of
her children. My companion and myself were quickly in
bed, and soon asleep, in which state we should probably
have remained till morning, had we not been awakened
by a light, which we found to be carried by three young
damsels, who, having observed where we lay, blew it out,
and got into a bed opposite to ours. As we had not
spoken, it is probable the girls supposed us sound asleep,
and we heard them say how delighted they would be to
have their portraits taken, as well as that of their grand-
mother. My heart silently thet their desire, and we fell
EPISODES 291
asleep without further disturbance. In our backwoods
it is frequently the case that one room suffices for all
the members of a family.
Day dawned, and as we were dressing we discovered that
we were alone in the apartment, the good country girls
having dressed in silence, and left us before we had awak-
ened. We joined the family and were kindly greeted. No
sooner had I made known my intentions as to the portraits
than the young folks disappeared, and soon after returned
attired in their Sunday clothes. The black chalk was at
work in a few minutes, to their great delight, and as the
fumes of the breakfast that was meantime preparing
reached my sensitive nose, I worked with redoubled
ardor. The sketches were soon finished, and soon too was
the breakfast over. I played a few airs on my flageolet,
while our guide was putting the horses to the cart, and by
ten o’clock we were once more under way towards Mead-
ville. Never shall I forget Maxon Randell and his hos-
pitable family. My companion was as pleased as myself,
and as the weather was now beautiful we enjoyed our jour-
ney with all that happy thoughtlessness best suited to our
character. The country now became covered with heavy
timber, principally evergreens, the pines and the cucumber
trees loaded with brilliant fruits, and the spruces throwing
a shade over the land in good keeping for a mellow pic-
ture. The lateness of the crops was the only disagreeable
circumstance that struck us; hay was yet standing, prob-
ably, however, a second crop; the peaches were quite small
and green, and a few persons here and there, as we passed
the different farms, were reaping oats. At length we came
in sight of French Creek, and soon after reached Mead-
ville. Here we paid the five dollars promised to our
conductor, who instantly faced about, and applying the
whip to his nags, bade us adieu, and set off.
We had now only one hundred and fifty cents. No time
was to be lost. We put our baggage and ourselves under
292 AUDUBON
the roof of a tavern keeper known by the name of J. E.
Smith, at the sign of the Traveller's Rest, and soon after
took a walk to survey the little village that was to be laid
under contribution for our further support. Its appear-
ance was rather dull, but, thanks to God, I have never
despaired while rambling thus for the sole purpose of
admiring his grand and beautiful works. I had opened the
case that contained my drawings, and putting my portfolio
under my arm, and a few good credentials in my pocket,
walked up Main Street, looking to the right and left, exam-
ining the different eads which occurred, until I fixed my
eyes on a gentleman in a store who looked as if he might
want a sketch. I begged him to allow me to sit down.
This granted, I remained purposely silent until he very
soon asked me what was “‘ zz that portfolio.” These three
words sounded well, and without waiting another instant, I
opened it to his view. This was a Hollander, who compli-
mented me much on the execution of the drawings of birds
and flowers in my portfolio. Showing him a sketch of the
best friend I have in the world at present, I asked him if
he would like one in the same style of himself. He not
only answered in the affirmative, but assured me that he
would exert himself in procuring as many more customers
as he could. I thanked him, be assured, kind reader; and
having fixed upon the next morning for drawing the sketch,
I returned to the Traveller’s Rest, with a hope that to-
morrow might prove propitious. Supper was ready, and
as in America we generally have but one sort of zadle
a@’héte, we sat down, when, every individual looking upon
me as a missionary priest, on account of my hair, which in
those days flowed loosely on my shoulders, I was asked
to say grace, which I did with a fervent spirit.
Daylight returned. I visited the groves and woods
around with my companion, returned, breakfasted, and
went to the store, where, notwithstanding my ardent desire
to begin my task, it was ten o’clock before the sitter was
ready. But, reader, allow me to describe the artist's room.
EPISODES 293
See me ascending a crazy flight of steps, from the back
part of a store room into a large garret extending over the
store and counting room, and mark me looking round to
see how the light could be stopped from obtruding on me
through no less than four windows facing each other at
right angles. Then follow me scrutinizing the corners, and
finding in one a cat nursing her young among a heap of
rags intended for the paper mill. Two hogsheads filled
with oats, a parcel of Dutch toys carelessly thrown on the
floor, a large drum and a bassoon in another part, fur
caps hanging along the wall, and the portable bed of the
merchant's clerk swinging like a hammock near the centre,
together with some rolls of sole leather, made up the pic-
ture. I saw all this at a glance, and closing the extra
windows with blankets, I soon procured a patuter’s light.
A young gentleman sat to try my skill. I finished his
phiz, which was approved of. The merchant then took
the chair, and I had the good fortune to please him also.
The room became crowded with the gentry of the village.
Some laughed, while others expressed their wonder; but
my work went on, notwithstanding the observations which
were made. My sitter invited me to spend the evening
with him, which I did, and joined him in some music on
the flute and violin. I returned to my companion with
great pleasure,and you may judge how much that pleasure
was increased when I found that he also had made two
sketches. Having written a page or two of our journals,
we retired to rest.
The following day was spent much in the same manner.
I felt highly gratified that from under my gray coat my
talents had made their way, and I was pleased to discover
that industry and moderate abilities prove at least as valu-
able as first-rate talents without the former of these qualities,
We left Meadville on foot, having forwarded our baggage
by wagon. Our hearts were light, our pockets replenished,
and we walked in two days to Pittsburgh, as happy as
circumstances permitted us to be.
204 AUDUBON
THE BURNING OF THE FORESTS.
WITH what pleasure have I seated myself by the blaz-
ing fire of some lonely cabin, when, faint with fatigue,
and chilled with the piercing blast, I had forced my
way to it through the drifted snows that covered the
face of the country as with a mantle. The affectionate
mother is hushing her dear babe to repose, while a group
of sturdy children surround their father, who has just re-
turned from the chase, and deposited on the rough floor-
ing of his hut the varied game which he has procured.
The great back-log, that with some difficulty has been
rolled into the ample chimney, urged, as it were, by lighted
pieces of pine, sends forth a blaze of light over the happy
family. The dogs of the hunter are already licking away
the trickling waters of the thawing icicles that sparkle
over their shaggy coats, and the comfort-loving cat is
busied in passing her furry paws over each ear, or with
her rough tongue smoothing her glossy coat.
How delightful to me has it been when, kindly received
and hospitably treated under such a roof, by persons
whose means were as scanty as their generosity was great,
I have entered into conversation with them respecting
subjects of interest to me, and received gratifying informa-
tion. When the humble but plentiful repast was ended,
the mother would take from the shelf the Book of books,
and mildly request the attention of her family, while the
father read aloud a chapter. Then to Heaven would
ascend their humble prayers, and a good-night would be
bidden to all friends far and near. How comfortably have
I laid my wearied frame on the Buffalo hide, and covered
me with the furry skin of some huge Bear! How pleasing
have been my dreams of home and happiness, as I there
lay, secure from danger and sheltered from the inclemency
of the weather.
EPISODES 295
I recollect that once while in the State of Maine, I
passed such a night asI have described. Next morning
the face of nature was obscured by the heavy rains that
fell in torrents, and my generous host begged me to re-
main, in such pressing terms that I was well content to
accept his offer. Breakfast over, the business of the day
commenced; the spinning-wheels went round, and the
boys employed themselves, one in searching for knowl-
edge, another in attempting to solve some ticklish arith-
metical problem. In a corner lay the dogs, dreaming of
plunder, while close to the ashes stood grimalkin, seriously
purring in concert with the wheels. The hunter and I
seated ourselves each on a stool, while the matron looked
after her domestic arrangements.
“ Puss,” quoth the dame, “get away; you told me last
night of this day’s rain, and I fear you may now give us
worse news with tricky paws.” Puss accordingly went off,
leaped on a bed, and rolling herself in a ball, composed
herself for a comfortable nap. I asked the husband what
his wife meant by what she had just said. ‘ The good
woman,” said he, ‘“‘has some curious notions at times,
and she believes, I think, in the ways of animals of all
kinds. Now, her talk to the cat refers to the fires of the
woods around us, and although they have happened long
ago, she fears them quite as much as ever, and, indeed, she
and I and all of us have good reason to dread them, as
they have brought us many calamities.” Having read of
the great fires to which my host alluded, and frequently
observed with sorrow the mournful state of the forests, I
felt anxious to know something of the causes by which
these direful effects had been produced. I therefore re-
quested him to give me an account of the events resulting
from those fires which he had witnessed. Willingly he
at once went on, nearly as follows: —
“ About twenty-five years ago the larch, or hackmatack,
trees were nearly all killed by insects. This took place in
296 AUDUBON
what hereabouts is called the ‘black soft growth’ land,
that is, the spruce, pine, and all other firs. The destruction
of the trees was effected by the insects cutting the leaves,
and you must know that, although other trees are not
killed by the loss of their leaves, the evergreens always
are. Some few years after this destruction of the larch,
the !same insects attacked the spruces, pines, and other
firs, in such a manner that, before half a dozen years were
over, they began to fall, and, tumbling in all directions,
they covered the whole country with matted masses.
You may suppose that when partially dried or seasoned,
they would prove capital fuel, as well as supplies for
the devouring flames, which accidentally, or perhaps by
intention, afterwards raged over the country, and con-
tinued burning at intervals for years, in many places stop-
ping all communication by the roads; the resinous nature
of the firs being of course best fitted to insure and keep
up the burning of the deep beds of dry leaves or of the
other trees.” Here I begged him to give me some idea
of the form of the insects which had caused such havoc.
“The insects,” said he, “ were, in their caterpillar form,
about three quarters of an inch in length, and as green as
the leaves of the trees they fed on, when they committed
their ravages. I must tell you also that, in most of the
places over which the fire passed, a new growth of wood
has already sprung up, of what we lumberers call hard
wood, which consists of all other sorts but pine or fir; and
I have always remarked that wherever the first natural
growth of a forest is destroyed, either by the axe, the
hurricane, or the fire, there springs up spontaneously an-
other of quite a different kind.” I again stopped my host
to inquire if he knew the method or nature of the first
kindling of the fires.
“Why, sir,” said he, “there are different opinions
about this. Many believe that the Indians did it, either to
be the better able to kill. the game, or to punish their
EPISODES 297
enemies the Pale-faces. My opinion, however, is differ-
ent; and I derive it from my experience in the woods as a
lumberer. I have always thought that the fires began by
the accidental fall of a dry trunk against another, when
their rubbing together, especially as many of them are
covered with resin, would produce fire. The dry leaves
on the ground are at once kindled, next the twigs
and branches, when nothing but the intervention of the
Almighty could stop the progress of the fire.
“In some instances, owing to the wind, the destructive
element approached the dwellings of the inhabitants of
the woods so rapidly that it was difficult for them to es-
cape. In some parts, indeed, hundreds of families were
obliged to flee from their homes, leaving all they had
behind them, and here and there some of the affrighted
fugitives were burnt alive.”
At this moment a rush of wind came down the chimney,
blowing the blaze of the fire towards the room. The wife
and daughter, imagining for a moment that the woods were
again on fire, made for the door, but the husband explain-
ing the cause of their terror, they resumed their work.
“Poor things,’ said the lumberer, “I dare say that
what I have told you brings sad recollections to the minds
of my wife and eldest daughter, who, with myself, had to
fly from our home, at the time of the great fires.” I felt
‘so interested in his relation of the causes of the burnings
that I asked him to describe to me the particulars of his
misfortunes at the time. ‘If Prudence and Polly,” said
he, looking towards his wife and daughter, “will promise
to sit still should another puff of smoke come down the
chimney, I will do so.” The good-natured smile with
which he made this remark elicited a return from the
women and he proceeded: —
“Tt is a difficult thing, sir, to describe, but I will do my
best to make your time pass pleasantly. We were sound
asleep one night in a cabin about a hundred miles from
298 AUDUBON
this, when, about two hours before day, the snorting
of the horses and lowing of the cattle which I had rang-
ing in the woods suddenly awakened us. I took yon rifle
and went to the door, to see what beast had caused the
hubbub, when I was struck by the glare of light reflected
on all the trees before me, as far as I could see through
the woods. My horses were leaping about, snorting
loudly, and the cattle ran among them with their tails
raised straight over their backs. On going to the back of
the house, I plainly heard the crackling made by the burn-
ing brushwood, and saw the flames coming towards us in
a far extended line. I ran to the house, told my wife
to dress herself and the child as quick as possible, and
take the little money we had, while I managed to catch
and saddle the two best horses. All this was done ina
very short time, for I guessed that every moment was
precious to us.
““We then mounted, and made off from the fire. My
wife, who is an excellent rider, stuck close to me; my
daughter, who was then a small child, I took in one arm.
When making off as I said, I looked back and saw that
the frightful blaze was close upon us, and had already laid
hold of the house. By good luck, there was a horn at-
tached to my hunting-clothes, and I blew it, to bring after
us, if possible, the remainder of my live stock, as well as
the dogs. The cattle followed for a while; but, before an
hour had elapsed, they all ran as if mad through the
woods, and that, sir, was the last of them. My dogs, too,
although at other times extremely tractable, ran after the
Deer that in bodies sprung before us, as if fully aware of
the death that was so rapidly approaching.
“We heard blasts from the horns of our neighbors as
we proceeded, and knew that they were in the same pre-
dicament. Intent on striving to the utmost to preserve
our lives, I thought of a large lake some miles off, which
might possibly check the flames; and, urging my wife to
EPISODES 299
whip up her horse, we set off at full speed, making the
best way we could over the fallen trees and brush-heaps,
which lay like so many articles placed on purpose to keep
up the terrific fires that advanced with a broad front
upon us.
“ By this time we could feel the heat; and we were afraid
that our horses would drop every instant. A singular
kind of breeze was passing over our heads, and the glare
of the atmosphere shone over the daylight. I was sensible
of aslight faintness, and my wife looked pale. The heat
had produced such a flush in the child’s face that when
she turned towards either of us, our grief and perplexity
were greatly increased. Ten miles, you know, are soon
gone over on swift horses; but, notwithstanding this, when
we reached the borders of the lake, covered with sweat
and quite exhausted, our hearts failed us. The heat of
the smoke was insufferable, and sheets of blazing fire flew
over us in a manner beyond belief. We reached the
shores, however, coasted the lake for a while, and got
round to the lee side. There we gave up our horses,
which we never saw again. Down among the rushes we
plunged by the edge of the water, and laid ourselves flat,
to wait the chance of escaping from being burnt or
devoured. The water refreshed us, and we enjoyed the
coolness.
“On went the fire, rushing and crashing through the
woods. Such a sight may we never see! The heavens,
themselves, I thought were frightened, for all above us
was a red glare mixed with clouds of smoke, rolling and
sweeping away. Our bodies were cool enough, but our
heads were scorching, and the child, who now seemed to
understand the matter, cried so as nearly to break our
hearts.
“The day passed on, and we became hungry. Many
wild beasts came plunging into the water beside us, and
others swam across to our side and stood still. Although
300 AUDUBON
faint and weary, I managed to shoot a Porcupine, and we
all tasted its flesh, The night passed, I cannot tell you
how. Smouldering fires covered the ground, and trees
stood like pillars of fire, or fell across each other. The
stifling and sickening smoke still rushed over us, and the
burnt cinders and ashes fell thick about us. How we got
through that night I really cannot tell, for about some of
it I remember nothing.” Here the hunter paused, and
took breath. The recital of his adventure seemed to have
exhausted him. His wife proposed that we should have
a bowl of milk, and the daughter having handed it to us,
we each took a draught.
“Now,” said he, “I will proceed. Towards morning,
although the heat did not abate, the smoke became less,
and blasts of fresh air sometimes made their way to us.
When morning came, all was calm, but a dismal smoke
still filled the air, and the smell seemed worse than ever.
We were now cooled enough, and shivered as if in an ague
fit; so we removed from the water, and went up to a burn-
ing log, where we warmed ourselves. What was to be-
come of us, I did not know. My wife hugged the child to
her breast, and wept bitterly; but God had preserved, us
through the worst of the danger, and the flames had gone
past, so I thought it would be both ungrateful to him
and unmanly to despair now. Hunger once more pressed
upon us, but this was easily remedied. Several Deer were
still standing in the water, up to the head, and I shot one
of them. Some of its flesh was soon roasted; and after
eating it we felt wonderfully strengthened.
“By this time the blaze of the fire was beyond our
sight, although the ground was still burning in many
places, and it was dangerous to go among the burnt trees.
After resting awhile, and trimming ourselves, we prepared
to commence our march. Taking up the child, I led the
way over the hot ground and rocks; and, after two weary
days and nights, during which we shifted in the best
EPISODES 301
manner we could, we at last reached the ‘hard woods’
which had been free of the fire. Soon after we came to a
house, where we were kindly treated for a while. Since
then, sir, I have worked hard and constantly as a lum-
berer; but, thanks be to God, here we are safe, sound.
and happy!”
A LONG CALM AT SEA
On the 17th of May, 1826, I left New Orleans on
board the ship “Delos,” commanded by Joseph Hatch,
Esq., of Kennebunk, bound for Liverpool. The steamer
“Hercules,” which towed the ship, left us several miles
outside of the Balize, about ten hours after our de-
parture; but there was not a breath of wind, the waters
were smoother than the prairies of the Opelousas, and
notwithstanding our great display of canvas, we lay like
a dead whale, floating at the mercy of the currents. The
weather was uncommonly fair, and the heat excessive;
and in this helpless state we continued for many days.
About the end of a week we had lost sight of the Balize,
although I was assured by the commander that all this
while the ship had rarely answered the helm. The sail-
ors whistled for wind, and raised their hands in all direc-
tions, anxious as they were to feel some motion in the
air; but all to no purpose; it was a dead calm, and we
concluded that “ Zolus” had agreed with “ Neptune” to
detain us, until our patience should be fairly tried, or
our sport exhausted; for sport we certainly had, both on
board and around the ship. I doubt if I can better con-
tribute to your amusement at present than by giving you
a short account of the occurrences that took place during
this sleepy fit of the being on whom we depended for our
progress toward merry England.
302 AUDUBON
Vast numbers of beautiful Dolphins glided by the side
of the vessel, glancing like burnished gold through the
day, and gleaming like meteors by night. The captain
and his mates were expert at alluring them with baited
hooks, and not less so at piercing them with five-pronged
instruments, which they called grains; and I was de-
lighted with the sport, because it afforded me an oppor-
tunity of observing and noting some of the habits of this
beautiful fish, as well as several other kinds.
On being hooked, the Dolphin flounces vigorously,
shoots off with great impetuosity to the very end of the
line, when, being suddenly checked, it often rises perpen-
dicularly several feet out of the water, shakes itself vio-
lently in the air, gets disentangled, and thus escapes.
But when well secured, it is held in play for a while by
the experienced fisher, soon becomes exhausted, and is
hauled on board. Some persons prefer pulling them in
at once, but they seldom succeed, as the force with which
the fish shakes itself on being raised out of the water is
generally sufficient to enable it to extricate itself. Dol-
phins move in shoals, varying from four or five to twenty
or more, hunting in packs in the waters, as Wolves pursue
their prey on land. The object of their pursuit is gener-
ally the Flying-fish, now and then the Bonita; and when
nothing better can be had, they will follow the little
Rudder-fish, and seize it immediately under the stern of
the ship. The Flying-fishes after having escaped for a
while by dint of their great velocity, on being again ap-
proached by the Dolphin, emerge from the waters, and
spreading their broad wing-like fins, sail through the air
and disperse in all directions, like a covey of timid Par-
tridges before the rapacious Falcon. Some pursue a
direct course, others diverge on either side; but in a
short time they all drop into their natural element.
While they are travelling in the air, their keen and
hungry pursuer, like a greyhound, follows in their wake,
EPISODES 303
and performing a succession of leaps, many feet in extent,
rapidly gains upon the quarry, which is often seized just
as it falls into the sea.
Dolphins manifest a very remarkable sympathy with
each other. The moment one of them is hooked or
grained, those in company make up to it, and remain
around until the unfortunate fish is pulled on board, when
they generally move off together, seldom biting at any-
thing thrown out to them. This, however, is the case
only with the larger individuals, which keep apart from
the young, in the same manner as is observed in several
species of birds; for when the smaller Dolphins are in
large shoals, they all remain under the bows of a ship,
and bite in succession at any sort of line, as if determined
to see what has become of their lost companions, in con-
sequence of which they are often all caught.
You must not suppose that the Dolphin is without its
enemies. Who, in this world, man or fish, has not enough
of them? Often it conceives itself on the very eve of
swallowing a fish, which, after all, is nothing but a piece
of lead, with a few feathers fastened to it, to make it look
like a Flying-fish, when it is seized and severed in two by
the insidious Balacouda, which I have once seen to carry
off by means of its sharp teeth, the better part of a
Dolphin that was hooked, and already hoisted to the sur-
face of the water.
The Dolphins caught in the Gulf of Mexico during this
calm were suspected to be poisonous; and to ascertain
whether this was really the case, our cook, who was an
African negro, never boiled or fried one without placing
beside ita dollar. If the silver was not tarnished by the
time the Dolphin was ready for the table, the fish was
presented to the passengers, with an assurance that it was
perfectly good. But as not a single individual of the
hundred that we caught had the property of converting
silver into copper, I suspect that our African sage was no
magician.
304 AUDUBON
One morning, that of the 22d of June, the weather
sultry, I was surprised on getting out of my hammock,
which was slung on deck, to find the water all around
swarming with Dolphins, which were sporting in great
glee. The sailors assured me that this was a certain
“token of wind,” and, as they watched the movements
of the fishes, added, “ay, and of a fair breeze too.” I
caught several Dolphins in the course of an hour, after
which scarcely any remained about the ship. Not a
breath of air came to our relief all that day, no, nor even
the next. The sailors were in despair, and I should prob-
ably have become despondent also, had not my spirits
been excited by finding a very large Dolphin on my hook.
When I had hauled it on board, I found it to be the larg-
est I had ever caught. It was a magnificent creature.
See how it quivers in the agonies of death! its tail flaps
the hard deck, producing a sound like the rapid roll of a
drum. How beautiful the changes of its colors! Now it
is blue, now green, silvery, golden, and burnished cop-
per! Now it presents a blaze of all the hues of the rain-
bow intermingled; but, alack! it is dead, and the play
of its colors is no longer seen. It has settled into the
deep calm that has paralyzed the energies of the blus-
tering winds, and smoothed down the proud waves of the
ocean.
The best bait for the Dolphin is a long strip of Shark’s
flesh. I think it generally prefers this to the semblance
of the Flying-fish, which indeed it does not often seize un-
less when the ship is under way, and it is made to rise
to the surface. There are times, however, when hunger
and the absence of their usual food will induce the Dol-
phins to dash at any sort of bait; and I have seen some
caught by means of a piece of white linen fastened toa
hook. Their appetite is as keen as that of the Vulture,
and whenever a good opportunity occurs, they gorge
themselves to such a degree that they become an easy
EPISODES 305
prey to their enemies the Balacouda and the Bottle-nosed
Porpoise. One that had been grained while lazily swim-
ming immediately under the stern of our ship, was found
to have its stomach completely crammed with Flying-fish,
all regularly disposed side by side, with their tails down-
wards — by which I mean to say that the Dolphin always
swallows its prey tatl-foremost. They looked in fact like
so many salted Herrings packed in a box, and were to
the number of twenty-two, each six or seven inches in
length.
The usual length of the Dolphins caught in the Gulf of
Mexico is about three feet, and I saw none that exceeded
four feet two inches. The weight of one of the latter size
was only eighteen pounds; for this fish is extremely nar-
row in proportion to its length, although rather deep in
its form. When just caught, the upper fin, which reaches
from the forehead to within a short distance of the tail, is
of a fine dark blue. The upper part of the body in its
whole length is azure, and the lower parts are of a golden
hue, mottled irregularly with deep-blue spots. It seems
that they at times enter very shallow water, as in the
course of my last voyage along the Florida coast, some
were caught in a seine, along with their kinsman the
“Cavalier,” of which I shall speak elsewhere.
The flesh of the Dolphin is rather firm, very white, and
lies in flakes when cooked. The first caught are gener-
ally eaten with great pleasure, but when served many
days in succession, they become insipid. It is not, as an
article of food, equal to the Balacouda, which is perhaps
as good as any fish caught in the waters of the Gulf of
Mexico.
VOL. II. — 20
306 AUDUBON
STILL BECALMED
On the 4th of June, we were still in the same plight,
although the currents of the Gulf had borne us to a
great distance from the place where, as I have informed
you, we had amused ourselves with catching Dolphins.
These currents are certainly very singular, for they car-
ried us hither and thither, at one time rendering us appre-
hensive of drifting on the coast of Florida, at another
threatening to send us to Cuba. Sometimes a slight
motion in the air revived our hopes, swelled our sails a
little, and carried us through the smooth waters like a
skater gliding on ice; but in a few hours it was again
a dead calm.
One day several small birds, after alighting on the
spars, betook themselves to the deck. One of them, a
female Rice Bunting, drew our attention more particu-
larly, for, a few moments after her arrival, there came
down, as if in her wake, a beautiful Peregrine Falcon.
The plunderer hovered about for a while, then stationed
himself on the end of one of the yard-arms, and suddenly
pouncing on the little gleaner of the meadows, clutched
her and carried her off in exultation. But, reader, mark
the date, and judge besides of my astonishment when I
saw the Falcon feeding on the Finch while on wing, pre-
cisely with the same ease and composure as the Missis-
sippi Kite might show while devouring high in air a
Red-throated Lizard, swept from one of the magnificent
trees of the Louisiana woods.
There was a favorite pet on board belonging to our
captain, and which was nothing more nor less than the
female companion of a cock — in other words, a common
hen. Some liked her because she now and then dropped
a fresh egg—a rare article at sea, even on board the
‘““Delos;” others, because she exhibited a pleasing sim-
EPISODES 307
plicity of character; others again, because, when they
had pushed her overboard, it gave them pleasure to see
the poor thing in terror strike with her feet, and strive to
reach her floating home, which she would never have
accomplished, however, had it not been for the humane
interference of our captain, Mr. Joseph Hatch, of Kenne-
bunk. Kind, good-hearted man! when, several weeks
after, the same pet hen accidentally flew overboard, as we
were scudding along at a furious rate, I thought I sawa
tear stand in his eye, as she floated panting in our wake.
But as yet we are becalmed, and heartily displeased at
old “ AXolus” for overlooking us.
One afternoon we caught two Sharks. In one of them,
a female, about seven feet long, we found ten young ones,
all alive, and quite capable of swimming, as we proved
by experiment; for, on casting one of them into the sea,
it immediately made off, as if it had been accustomed
to shift for itself. Of another, that had been cut in
two, the head half swam off out of our sight. The
rest were cut in pieces, as was the old shark, as bait
for the Dolphins, which I have already said are fond of
such food.
Our captain, who was much intent on amusing me, in-
formed me that the Rudder-fishes were plentiful astern,
and immediately set to dressing hooks for the purpose of
catching them. There was now some air above us, the
cotton sheets aloft bulged out, the ship moved through
the water, and the captain and I repaired to the cabin
window. I was furnished with a fine hook, a thread line,
and some small bits of bacon, as was the captain, and we
dropped our bait among the myriads of delicate little
fishes below. Up they came, one after another, so fast
in succession that, according to my journal, we caught
three hundred and seventy in about two hours. What a
mess! and how delicious when roasted! If ever I am
again becalmed in the Gulf of Mexico, I shall not forget
308 AUDUBON
the Rudder-fish. The little things scarcely measured
three inches in length; they were thin and deep in form,
and afforded excellent eating. It was curious to see them
keep to the lee of the rudder in a compact body; and so
voracious were they that they actually leaped out of the
water at the sight of the bait, as “sunnies”’ are occasion-
ally wont to do in our rivers. But the very instant that
the ship became still, they dispersed around her sides,
and would no longer bite. I made a figure of one of
them, as indeed I tried to do of every other species that
occurred during this deathlike calm. Not one of these
fishes did I ever see when crossing the Atlantic, although
many kinds at times come close to the stern of any vessel
in the great sea, and are called by the same name.
Another time we caught a fine Porpoise, which meas-
ured about two yards in length. This took place at night,
when the light of the moon afforded mea clear view of
the spot. The fish, contrary to custom, was grained, in-
stead of being harpooned; but in such a way and so effect-
ually, through the forehead, that it was thus held fast,
and allowed to flounce and beat about the bows of the
ship, until the person who had struck it gave the line
holding the grains to the captain, slid down upon the bob-
stays with a rope, and after a while managed to secure it
by the tail. Some of the crew then hoisted it on board.
When it arrived on deck, it gave a deep groan, flapped
with great force, and soon expired. On opening it next
morning, eight hours after death, we found its intestines
still warm. They were arranged in the same manner as
those of a pig; the paunch contained several cuttle-fishes
partially digested. The lower jaw extended beyond the
upper about three-fourths of an inch, and both were fur-
nished with a single row of conical teeth, about half an
inch long, and just so far separated as to admit those of
one jaw between the corresponding ones of the other.
The animal might weigh about four hundred pounds; its
EPISODES 309
eyes were extremely small, its flesh was considered deli-
cate by some on board; but in my opinion, if it be good,
that of a large Alligator is equally so; and on neither do
I intend to feast for some time. The captain told me
that he had seen these Porpoises leap at times perpendic-
ularly out of the water to the height of several feet, and
that small boats have now and then been sunk by their
falling into them when engaged with their sports.
During all this time flocks of Pigeons were crossing
the Gulf, between Cuba and the Floridas; many a Rose-
breasted Gull played around by day; Noddies alighted
on the rigging by night; and now and then the Frigate
bird was observed ranging high over head in the azure of
the cloudless sky.
The directions of the currents were tried, and our cap-
tain, who had an extraordinary genius for mechanics, was
frequently employed in turning powder-horns and other
articles. So calm and sultry was the weather that we
had a large awning spread, under which we took our
meals and spent the night. At length we got so wea-
ried of it that the very sailors, I thought, seemed disposed
to leap overboard and swim to land. But at length, on
the thirty-seventh day after our departure, a smart breeze
overtook us. Presently there was an extraordinary bustle
on board; about twelve the Tortugas light-house bore
north of us, and in a few hours more we gained the Atlan-
tic. AZolus had indeed awakened from his long sleep;
and on the nineteenth day after leaving the Capes of
Florida, I was landed at Liverpool.
310 AUDUBON
GREAT EGG HARBOR
SoME years ago, after having spent the spring in ob-
serving the habits of the migratory Warblers and other
land birds, which arrived in vast numbers in the
vicinity of Camden in New Jersey, I prepared to visit
the sea shores of that State, for the purpose of making
myself acquainted with their feathered inhabitants. June
had commenced, the weather was pleasant, and the coun-
try seemed to smile in the prospect of bright days and
gentle gales. Fishermen-gunners passed daily between
Philadelphia and the various small seaports, with Jersey
wagons, laden with fish, fowls, and other provisions, or
with such articles as were required by the families of
those hardy boatmen; and I bargained with one of them
to take myself and my baggage to Great Egg Harbor.
One afternoon, about sunset, the vehicle halted at my
lodgings, and the conductor intimated that he was anx-
ious to proceed as quickly as possible. A trunk, a
couple of guns, and such other articles as are found ne-
cessary by persons whose pursuits are similar to mine,
were immediately thrust into the wagon, and were fol-
lowed by their owner. The conductor whistled to his
steeds, and off we went at a round pace over the loose
and deep sand that in almost every part of this State forms
the basis of the roads. After a while we overtook a whole
caravan of similar vehicles, moving in the same direction,
and when we got near them our horses slackened their
pace to a regular walk, the driver leaped from his seat, I
followed his example, and we presently found ourselves
in the midst of a group of merry wagoners, relating their
adventures of the week, it being now Saturday night.
One gave intimation of the number of “ Sheep-heads” he
had taken to town, another spoke of the Curlews which
yet remained on the sands, and a third boasted of having
JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON.
PAINTED BY AUDUBON ABOUT 1823.
EPISODES 311
gathered so many dozens of Marsh Hens’ eggs. I in-
quired if the Fish Hawks were plentiful near Great Egg
Harbor, and was answered by an elderly man, who with a
laugh asked if I had ever seen the “ Weak fish” along the
coast without the bird in question. Not knowing the ani-
mal he had named, I confessed my ignorance, when the
whole party burst into a loud laugh, in which, there being
nothing better for it, I joined.
About midnight the caravan reached a half-way house,
where we rested a while. Several roads diverged from
this spot, and the wagons separated, one only keeping us
company. The night was dark and gloomy, but the sand
of the road indicated our course very distinctly. Sud-
denly the galloping of horses struck my ear, and on look-
ing back we perceived that our wagon must in an instant
be in imminent danger. The driver leaped off, and drew
his steeds aside, barely in time to allow the runaways to
pass without injuring us. Off they went at full speed,
and not long after their owner came up panting, and in-
formed us that they had suddenly taken fright at some
noise proceeding from the woods, but hoped they would
soon stop. Immediately after we heard a crack; then for
a few moments all was silent; but the neighing of horses
presently assured us that they had broken loose. On
reaching the spot we found the wagon upset, and a few
yards farther on were the horses, quietly browsing by the
roadside.
The first dawn of morn in the Jerseys in the month of
June is worthy of a better description than I can furnish,
and therefore I shall only say that the moment the sun-
beams blazed over the horizon, the loud and mellow notes
of the Meadow Lark saluted our ears. On each side of
the road were open woods, on the tallest trees of which I
observed at intervals the nest of a Fish Hawk, far above
which the white-breasted bird slowly winged its way, as
it commenced its early journey to the sea, the odor of
312 AUDUBON
which filled me with delight. In half an hour more we
were in the centre of Great Egg Harbor.
There I had the good fortune to be received into the
house of a thoroughbred fisherman-gunner, who, besides
owning a comfortable cot only a few hundred yards from
the shore, had an excellent woman for a wife, and a little
daughter as playful as a kitten, though as wild as a Sea-
Gull. In less than half an hour I was quite at home, and
the rest of the day was spent in devotion.
Oysters, though reckoned out of season at this period,
are as good as ever when fresh from their beds, and my
first meal was of some as large and white as any I have
eaten. The sight of them placed before me on a clean
table, with an honest and industrious family in my com-
pany, never failed to afford more pleasure than the most
sumptuous fare under different circumstances; and our
conversation being simple and harmless, gayety shone in
every face. As we became better acquainted, I had to
answer several questions relative to the object of my visit.
The good man rubbed his hands with joy, as I spoke of
shooting and fishing, and of long excursions through the
swamps and marshes around.
My host was then, and I hope still is, a tall, strong-
boned, muscular man, of dark complexion, with eyes as
keen as those of the Sea-Eagle. He was a tough walker,
laughed at difficulties, and could pull an oar with any
man. As to shooting, I have often doubted whether he
or Mr. Egan, the worthy pilot of Indian Isle, was best;
and rarely indeed have I seen either of them miss a shot.
At daybreak on Monday, I shouldered my double-bar-
relled gun, and my host carried with him a long fowling-
piece, a pair of oars, and a pair of oyster-tongs, while the
wife and daughter brought along a seine. The boat was
good, the breeze gentle, and along the inlets we sailed
for parts well known to my companions. To such natu-
ralists as are qualified to observe many different objects
EPISODES 13
at the same time, Great Egg Harbor would probably
afford as ample a field as any part of our coast, excepting
the Florida Keys. Birds of many kinds are abundant, as
are fishes and testaceous animals. The forests shelter
many beautiful plants, and even on the driest sand-bar
you may see insects of the most brilliant tints. Our
principal object, however, was to procure certain birds
known there by the name of Lawyers, and to accomplish
this we entered and followed for several miles a winding
inlet or bayou, which led us to the interior of a vast
marsh, where after some search we found the birds and
their nests. Our seine had been placed across the chan-
nel, and when we returned to it the tide had run out, and
left in it a number of fine fish, some of which we cooked
and ate on the spot. One, which I considered as a curi-
osity, was saved, and transmitted to Baron Cuvier. Our
repast ended, the seine was spread out to dry, and we
again betook ourselves to the marshes to pursue our re-
searches until the return of the tide. Having collected
enough to satisfy us, we took up our oars, and returned to
the shore in front of the fisherman’s house, where we
dragged the seine several times with success.
In this manner I passed several weeks along those de-
lightful and healthy shores, one day going to the woods,
to search the swamps in which the Herons bred, passing
another amid the joyous cries of the Marsh Hens, and on
a third carrying slaughter among the White-breasted Sea-
Gulls; by way of amusement sometimes hauling the fish
called the Sheep’s-head from an eddy along the shore, or
watching the gay Terns as they danced in the air, or
plunged into the waters to seize the tiny fry. Many a
‘drawing I made at Great Egg Harbor, many a pleasant
day I spent along its shores; and much pleasure would it
give me once more to visit the good and happy family in
whose house I resided there.
314 AUDUBON
THE GREAT PINE SWAMP
I LEFT Philadelphia, at four of the morning, by the coach,
with no other accoutrements than I knew to be absolutely
necessary for the jaunt which I intended to make. These
consisted of a wooden box, containing a small stock of
linen, drawing-paper, my journal, colors, and pencils, to-
gether with twenty-five pounds of shot, some flints, the
due quantum of cash, my gun Zearyacket, and a heart as
true to Nature as ever.
Our coaches are none of the best, nor do they move
with the velocity of those of some other countries. It
was eight, and a dark night, when I reached Mauch
Chunk, now so celebrated in the Union for its rich coal-
mines, and eighty-eight miles distant from Philadelphia.
I had passed through a very diversified country, part of
which was highly cultivated, while the rest was yet ina state
of nature, and consequently much more agreeable to me.
On alighting, I was shown to the traveller’s room, and on
asking for the landlord, saw coming towards me a fine-
looking young man, to whom I made known my wishes.
He spoke kindly, and offered to lodge and board me
at a much lower rate than travellers who go there for
the very simple pleasure of being dragged on the railway.
In a word, I was fixed in four minutes, and that most
comfortably.
No sooner had the approach of day been announced by
the cocks of the little village, than I marched out with my
gun and note-book, to judge for myself of the wealth of
the country. After traversing much ground, and crossing
many steep hills, I returned, if not wearied, at least much
disappointed at the extraordinary scarcity of birds. So
I bargained to be carried in a cart to the central parts of
the Great Pine Swamp, and, although a heavy storm was
rising, ordered my conductor to proceed. We winded
EPISODES 315
round many a mountain and at last crossed the highest.
The storm had become tremendous, and we were thor-
oughly drenched, but, my resolution being fixed, the
boy was obliged to continue his driving. Having already
travelled about fifteen miles or so, we left the turnpike,
and struck up a narrow and bad road, that seemed merely
cut out to enable the people of the Swamp to receive the
necessary supplies from the village which I had left.
Some mistakes were made, and it was almost dark when
a post directed us to the habitation of a Mr. Jediah Irish,
to whom I had been recommended. We now rattied
down a steep declivity, edged on one side by almost per-
pendicular rocks, and on the other by a noisy stream,
which seemed grumbling at the approach of strangers.
The ground was so overgrown by laurels and tall pines of
different kinds that the whole presented only a mass of
darkness,
At length we reached the house, the door of which was
already opened, the sight of strangers being nothing un-
common in our woods, even in the most remote parts.
On entering, I was presented with a chair, while my con-
ductor was shown the way to the stable, and on express-
ing a wish that I should be permitted to remain in the
house for some weeks, I was gratified by receiving the
sanction of the good woman to my proposal, although her
husband was then from home. As I immediately began
to talk about the nature of the country, and inquired if
birds were numerous in the neighborhood, Mrs. Irish,
more az fait in household affairs than ornithology, sent
for a nephew of her husband’s, who soon made his appear-
ance, and in whose favor I became at once prepossessed,
He conversed like an educated person, saw that I was
comfortably disposed of, and finally bade me good-night
in such a tone as made me quite happy.
The storm had rolled away before the first beams of the
morning sun shone brightly on the wet foliage, displaying
316 AUDUBON
all its richness and beauty. My ears were greeted by the
notes, always sweet and mellow, of the Wood Thrush and
other songsters. Before I had gone many steps, the woods
echoed to the report of my gun, and I picked from among
the leaves a lovely Sylvia,’ long sought for, but until then
sought for in vain. I needed no more, and standing still
for a while, I was soon convinced that the Great Pine
Swamp harbored many other objects as valuable to me.
The young man joined me, bearing his rifle, and offered
to accompany me through the woods, all of which he well
knew. But I was anxious to transfer to paper the form
and beauty of the little bird I had in my hand; and re-
questing him to break a twig of blooming laurel, we returned
to the house, speaking of nothing else than the picturesque
beauty of the country around.
A few days passed, during which I became acquainted
with my hostess and her sweet children, and made occa-
sional rambles, but spent the greater portion of my time
in drawing. One morning, as I stood near the window of
my room, I remarked a tall and powerful man alight from
his horse, loose the girth of the saddle, raise the latter with
one hand, pass the bridle over the head of the animal with
the other, and move towards the house, while the horse be-
took himself to the little brook to drink. I heard some
movements in the room below, and again the same tall
person walked towards the mill and stores, a few hun-
dred yards from the house. In America business is the
first object in view at all times, and right it is that it
should be so. Soon after my hostess entered my room,
accompanied by the fine-looking woodsman, to whom, as
Mr. Jediah Irish, I was introduced. Reader, to describe
to you the qualities of that excellent man were vain; you
should know him, as I do, to estimate the value of such men
in our sequestered forests. He not only made me welcome,
but promised all his assistance in forwarding my views.
1 Sylvia parus, Hemlock Warbler; Ornith. Biog. vol. ii. page 205.
EPISODES 317
The long walks and long talks we have had together
I can never forget, nor the many beautiful birds which we
pursued, shot, and admired. The juicy venison, excellent
Bear flesh, and delightful trout that daily formed my food,
methinks I can still enjoy. And then, what pleasure I
had in listening to him as he read his favorite poems of
Burns, while my pencil was occupied in smoothing and
softening the drawing of the bird before me! Was not
this enough to recall to my mind the early impressions
that had been made upon it by the description of the
golden age, which I here found realized?
The Lehigh about this place forms numerous short
turns between the mountains, and affords frequent falls,
as well as below the falls deep pools, which render this
stream a most valuable one for mills of any kind. Not
many years before this date, my host was chosen by the
agent of the Lehigh Coal Company, as their mill-wright,
and manager for cutting down the fine trees which cov-
ered the mountains around. He was young, robust, active,
industrious, and persevering. He marched to the spot
where his abode now is, with some workmen, and by dint
of hard labor first cleared the road mentioned above, and
reached the river at the centre of a bend, where he fixed
on erecting various mills. The pass here is so narrow
that it looks as if formed by the bursting asunder of the
mountain, both sides ascending abruptly, so that the place
where the settlement was made is in many parts difficult
of access, and the road then newly cut was only sufficient
to permit men and horses to come to the spot where
Jediah and his men were at work. So great, in fact, were
the difficulties of access that, as he told me, pointing to
a spot about one hundred and fifty feet above us, they for
many months slipped from it their barrelled provisions,
assisted by ropes, to their camp below. But no sooner
was the first saw-mill erected than the axe-men began
their devastations. Trees, one after another, were, and
318 AUDUBON
are yet, constantly heard falling during the days; and in
calm nights, the greedy mills told the sad tale that in a
century the noble forests around should exist no more.
Many mills were erected, many dams raised, in defiance of
the impetuous Lehigh. One full third of the trees have
already been culled, turned into boards, and floated as
far as Philadelphia.
In such an undertaking the cutting of the trees is not
all. They have afterwards to be hauled to the edge of the
mountains bordering the river, launched into the stream,
and led to the mills over many shallows and difficult
places. Whilst I was in the Great Pine Swamp, I fre-
quently visited one of the principal places for the launch-
ing of logs. To see them tumbling from such a height,
touching here and there the rough angle of a projecting
rock, bouncing from it with the elasticity of a foot-ball,
and at last falling with an awful crash into the river,
forms a sight interesting in the highest degree, but im-
possible for me to describe. Shall I tell you that I have
seen masses of these logs heaped above each other to the
number of five thousand? I may so tell you, for such I
have seen. My friend Irish assured me that at some sea-
sons, these piles consisted of a much greater number, the
river becoming in those places completely choked up.
When freshets (or floods) take place, then is the time
chosen for forwarding the logs to the different mills. This
is called a Frolic. Jediah Irish, who is generally the
leader, proceeds to the upper leap with his men, each
provided with a strong wooden handspike, and a short-
handled axe. They all take to the water, be it summer
or winter, like so many Newfoundland spaniels. The logs
are gradually detached, and, after a time, are seen floating
down the dancing stream, here striking against a rock and
whirling many times round, there suddenly checked in
dozens by a shallow, over which they have to be forced
with the handspikes. Now they arrive at the edge of a
EPISODES 319
dam, and are again pushed over. Certain numbers are
left in each dam, and when the party has arrived at the
last, which lies just where my friend Irish’s camp was first
formed, the drenched leader and his men, about sixty in
number, make their way home, find there a healthful
repast, and spend the evening and a portion of the night
in dancing and frolicking, in their own simple manner, in
the most perfect amity, seldom troubling themselves with
the idea of the labor prepared for them on the morrow.
That morrow now come, one sounds a horn from the
door of the store-house, at the call of which each returns
to his work. The sawyers, the millers, the rafters, and
raftsmen are all immediately busy. The mills are all
going, and the logs, which a few months before were the
supporters of broad and leafy tops, are now in the act of
being split asunder. The boards are then launched into
the stream, and rafts are formed of them for market.
During the months of summer and autumn, the Lehigh,
asmall river of itself, soon becomes extremely shallow,
and to float the rafts would prove impossible, had not art
managed to provide a supply of water for this express
purpose. At the breast of the lower dam is a curiously
constructed lock, which is opened at the approach of the
rafts. They pass through this lock with the rapidity of
lightning, propelled by the water that had been accumu-
lated in the dam, and which is of itself generally sufficient
to float them to Mauch Chunk, after which, entering
regular canals, they find no other impediments, but are
conveyed to their ultimate destination.
Before population had greatly advanced in this part of
Pennsylvania, game of all description found within that
range was extremely abundant. The Elk itself did not
disdain to browse on the shoulders of the mountains near
the Lehigh. Bears and the common Deer must have been
plentiful, as, at the moment when I write, many of both
are seen and killed by the resident hunters. The Wild
320 AUDUBON 2
Turkey, the Pheasant, and the Grouse, are also tolerably
abundant, and as to trout in the streams — ah, reader, if
you are an angler, do go there and try for yourself. For
my part, I can only say that I have been made weary
with pulling up from the rivulets the sparkling fish, al-
lured by the struggles of the common grasshopper.
A comical affair happened with the Bears, which I shall
relate to you, good reader. A party of my friend Irish’s
raftsmen, returning from Mauch Chunk one afternoon,
through sundry short-cuts over the mountains, at the sea-
son when the huckleberries are ripe and plentiful, were
suddenly apprised of the proximity of some of these ani-
mals by their snuffing the air. No sooner was this per-
ceived than, to the astonishment of the party, not fewer
than eight Bears, I was told, made their appearance.
Each man, being provided with his short-handled axe,
faced about, and willingly came to the scratch; but the
assailed soon proved the assailants, and with claw and
tooth drove the men off ina twinkling. Down they all
rushed from the mountain; the noise spread quickly;
rifles were soon procured and shouldered; but when the
spot was reached, no Bears were to be found; night forced
the hunters back to their homes, and a laugh concluded
the affair.
I spent six weeks in the Great Pine Forest — Swamp it
cannot be called —where I made many a drawing. Wish-
ing to leave Pennsylvania, and to follow the migratory
flocks of our birds to the South, I bade adieu to the excel-
lent wife and rosy children of my friend, and to his kind
nephew. Jediah Irish, shouldering his heavy rifle, accom-
panied me, and trudging directly across the mountains,
we arrived at Mauch Chunk in good time for dinner.
Shall I ever have the pleasure of seeing that good, that
generous man again? +
1 Audubon and Mr. Irish met many times afterwards, the last being, I
believe, in Philadelphia, on the eve of Audubon’s departure for his Missouri
River trip.
EPISODES 321
At Mauch Chunk, where we both spent the night, Mr.
White, the civil engineer, visited me, and looked at the
drawings which I had made in the Great Pine Forest.
The news he gave me of my sons, then in Kentucky, made
me still more anxious to move in their direction; and long
before daybreak, I shook hands with the good man of the for-
est, and found myself moving towards the capital of Penn-
sylvania,’ having as my sole companion a sharp, frosty
breeze. Left to my thoughts, I felt amazed that such a
place as the Great Pine Forest should be so little known
to the Philadelphians, scarcely any of whom could direct
me towards it. How much it is to be regretted, thought
I, that the many young gentlemen who are there, so much
at a loss how to employ their leisure days, should not visit
these wild retreats, valuable as they are to the student of
nature. How differently would they feel, if, instead of
spending weeks in smoothing a useless bow, and walking
out in full dress, intent on displaying the make of their
legs, to some rendezvous where they may enjoy their
wines, they were to occupy themselves in contemplating
the rich profusion which nature has poured around them,
or even in procuring some desiderated specimen for their
Peale’s Museum, once so valuable, and so finely arranged!
But, alas, no! they are none of them aware of the richness
of the Great Pine Swamp, nor are they likely to share the
hospitality to be found there.
THE LOST ONE
A “LIVE-OAKER” employed on the St. John’s River, in
East Florida, left his cabin, situated on the banks of that
stream, and, with his axe on his shoulder, proceeded
towards the swamp in which he had several times before
plied his trade of felling and squaring the giant trees
1 Then Philadelphia.
VOL. 11.— 21
322 AUDUBON
that afford the most valuable timber for naval architec-
ture and other purposes.
At the season which is the best for this kind of labor,
heavy fogs not unfrequently cover the country, so as to
render it difficult for one to see farther than thirty or
forty yards in any direction. The woods, too, present so
little variety that every tree seems the mere counterpart
of every other; and the grass, when it has not been burnt,
is so tall that a man of ordinary stature cannot see over
it, whence it is necessary for him to proceed with great
caution, lest he should unwittingly deviate from the ill-
defined trail which he follows. To increase the difficulty,
several trails often meet, in which case, unless the ex-
plorer be perfectly acquainted with the neighborhood, it
would be well for him to lie down, and wait until the fog
should disperse. Under such circumstances, the best
woodsmen are not unfrequently bewildered for a while;
and I well remember that such an occurrence happened
to myself, at a time when I had imprudently ventured to
pursue a wounded quadruped, which led me some distance
from the track.
The live-oaker had been jogging onwards for several
hours, and became aware that he must have travelled con-
siderably more than the distance between his cabin and
the “hummock” which he desired to reach. To his
alarm, at the moment when the fog dispersed, he saw the
sun at its meridian height, and could not recognize a
single object around him.
Young, healthy, and active, he imagined he had walked
with more than usual speed, and had passed the place to
which he was bound. He accordingly turned his back
upon the sun, and pursued a different route, guided by a
small trail. Time passed, and the sun headed his course;
he saw it gradually descend in the west; but all around
him continued as if enveloped with mystery. The huge
gray trees spread their giant boughs over him, the rank
EPISODES 323
grass extended on all sides, not a living being crossed his
path; all was silent and still, and the scene was like a
dull and dreary dream of the land of oblivion. He wan-
dered like a forgotten ghost that had passed into the land
of spirits, without yet meeting one of his kind with whom
to hold converse.
The condition of a man lost in the woods is one of the
most perplexing that could be imagined by a person who
has not himself been in a like predicament. Every ob-
ject he sees, he at first thinks he recognizes, and while
his whole mind is bent on searching for more that may
gradually lead to his extrication, he goes on committing
greater errors the farther he proceeds. This was the case
with the live-oaker., The sun was now setting with a fiery
aspect, and by degrees it sunk in its full circular form, as
if giving warning of a sultry morrow. Myriads of insects,
delighted at its departure, now filled the air on buzzing
wings. Each piping frog arose from the muddy pool in
which it had concealed itself; the Squirrel retired to its
hole, the Crow to its roost, and, far above, the harsh,
croaking voice of the Heron announced that, full of anxi-
ety, it was wending its way towards the miry interior of
some distant swamp. Now the woods began to resound
to the shrill cries of the Owl; and the breeze, as it swept
among the columnar stems of the forest trees, came laden
with heavy and chilling dews. Alas! no moon with her
silvery light shone on the dreary scene, and the Lost
One, wearied and vexed, laid himself down on the damp <
ground. Prayer is always consolatory to man in every
difficulty or danger, and the woodsman fervently prayed to
his Maker, wished his family a happier night than it was
his lot to experience, and with a feverish anxiety waited
the return of day.
You may imagine the length of that dull, cold, moon-
less night. With the dawn of day came the usual fogs of
those latitudes. The poor man started on his feet, and
324 AUDUBON
with a sorrowful heart, pursued a course which he thought
might lead him to some familiar object, although, indeed,
he scarcely knew what he was doing. No longer had he
the trace of a track to guide him, and yet, as the sun rose,
he calculated the many hours of daylight he had before
him, and the farther he went, the faster he walked. But
vain were all his hopes; that day was spent in fruitless
endeavors to regain the path that led to his home, and
when night again approached, the terror that had been
gradually spreading over his mind, together with the ner-
vous debility produced by fatigue, anxiety, and hunger,
rendered him almost frantic. He told me that at this
moment he beat his breast, tore his hair, and, had it not
been for the piety with which his parents had in early life
mbued his mind, and which had become habitual, would
have cursed his existence. Famished as he now was, he
laid himself on the ground, and fed on the weeds and
grasses that grew around him. That night was spent in
the greatest agony and terror. “I knew my situation,”
he said tome. “I was fully aware that unless Almighty
God came to my assistance, I must perish in those unin-
habited woods. I knew that I had walked more than fifty
miles, although I had not met with a brook, from which
I could quench my thirst, or even allay the burning heat
of my parched lips and bloodshot eyes. I knew that if I
should not meet with some stream I must die, for my axe
was my only weapon, and although Deer and Bears now
and then started within a few yards, or even feet of me,
not one of them could I kill; and although I was in the
. midst of abundance, not a mouthful did I expect to pro-
cure, to satisfy the cravings of my empty stomach. Sir,
may God preserve you from ever feeling as I did the
whole of that day.”
For several days after, no one can imagine the condi-
tion in which he was, for when he related to me this
painful adventure, he assured me that he had lost all
EPISODES 325
recollection of what had happened. “God,” he contin-
ued, “must have taken pity on me one day, for, as I ran
wildly through those dreadful pine barrens, I met with a
tortoise. I gazed upon it with amazement and delight,
and, although I knew that were I to follow it undisturbed,
it would lead me to some water, my hunger and thirst
would not allow me to refrain from satisfying both, by
eating its flesh, and drinking its blood. With one stroke
of my axe the beast was cut in two, and in a few moments
I had despatched all but the shell. Oh, sir, how much I
thanked God, whose kindness had put the Tortoise in my
way! I felt greatly renewed. I sat down at the foot of
a pine, gazed on the heavens, thought of my poor wife
and children, and again and again thanked my God for
my life; for now I felt less distracted in mind, and more
assured that before long I must recover my way, and get
back to my home.”
The Lost One remained and passed the night, at the
foot of the same tree under which his repast had been
made. Refreshed by a sound sleep, he started at dawn
to resume his weary march. The sun rose bright, and he
followed the direction of the shadows. Still the dreari-
ness of the woods was the same, and he was on the point
of giving up in despair, when he observed a Raccoon lying
squatted in the grass. Raising his axe, he drove it with
such violence through the helpless animal that it expired
without a struggle. What he had done with the tortoise,
he now did with the Raccoon, the greater part of which he
actually devoured at one meal. With more comfortable
feelings he then resumed his wanderings — his journey, I
cannot say—for although in the possession of all his
faculties, and in broad daylight, he was worse off than a
lame man groping his way in the dark out of a dungeon,
of which he knew not where the doors stood.
Days, one after another, passed — nay, weeks in suc-
cession. He fed now on cabbage-trees, then on frogs
326 AUDUBON
and snakes. All that fell in his way was welcome and
savory. Yet he became daily more emaciated, until at
length he could scarcely crawl. Forty days had elapsed,
by his own reckoning, when he at last reached the banks
of the river. His clothes in tatters, his once bright axe
dimmed with rust, his face begrimed with beard, his
hair matted, and his feeble frame little better than a
skeleton covered with parchment, there he laid himself
down to die. Amid the perturbed dreams of his fevered
fancy, he thought he heard the noise of oars far away on
the silent river. He listened, but the sounds died away
on his ear. It was, indeed, a dream, the last glimmer of
expiring hope, and now the light of life was about to be
quenched forever. But again the sound of oars woke him
from his lethargy. He listened so eagerly that the hum
of a fly could not have escaped his ear. They were, in-
deed, the measured beats of oars. And now, joy to the
forlorn soul! the sound of human voices thrilled to his
heart, and awoke the tumultuous pulses of returning hope.
On his knees did the eye of God see that poor man by the
broad, still stream that glittered in the sunbeams, and
human eyes soon saw him too, for round that headland
covered with tangled brushwood, boldly advances the lit-
tle boat, propelled by its lusty rowers. The Lost One
raises his feeble voice on high; it was a loud, shrill
scream of joy and fear. The rowers pause, and look
around. Another, but feebler scream, and they observe
him. It comes, his heart flutters, his sight is dimmed,
his brain reels, he gasps for breath. It comes— it has
run upon the beach, and the Lost One is found.
This is no tale of fiction, but the relation of an actual
occurrence, which might be embellished, no doubt, but
which is better in the plain garb of truth. The notes by
which I recorded it were written in the cabin of the once
lost live-oaker, about four years after the painful incident
occurred. His amiable wife, and loving children, were
EPISODES 327
present at the recital, and never shall I forget the tears
that flowed from their eyes as they listened to it, albeit
it had long been more familiar to them than a tale thrice
told. Sincerely do I wish, good reader, that neither you
nor I may ever elicit such sympathy by having under-
gone such sufferings, although no doubt, such sympathy
would be a rich recompense for them.
It only remains for me to say that the distance between
the cabin and the live-oak hummock to which the woods-
man was bound, scarcely exceeded eight miles, while the
part of the river where he was found was thirty-eight
miles from his house. Calculating his daily wanderings
at ten miles, we may believe they amounted in all to
four hundred. He must therefore have rambled in a
circuitous direction, which people generally do in such
circumstances. Nothing but the great strength of his
constitution, and the merciful aid of his Maker, could
have supported him for so long a time.
THE LIVE-OAKERS
THE greater part of the forests of East Florida consist
principally of what in that country are called “pine
barrens.” In these districts, the woods are rather thin,
and the only trees that are seen in them are tall pines
of indifferent quality, beneath which is a growth of rank
grass, here and there mixed with low bushes, and sword-
palmettoes. The soil is of a sandy nature, mostly flat,
and consequently either covered with water during the
rainy season, or parched in the summer or autumn, al-
though you meet at times with ponds of stagnant water,
where the cattle, which are abundant, allay their thirst,
and around which resort the various kinds of game found
in these wilds.
328 AUDUBON
The traveller, who has pursued his course for many
miles over the barrens, is suddenly delighted to see in
the distance the appearance of a dark “hummock” of
live-oaks and other trees, seeming as if they had been
planted in the wilderness. As he approaches, the air
feels cooler and more salubrious, the song of numerous
birds delights his ear, the herbage assumes a more luxu-
riant appearance, the flowers become larger and brighter,
and a grateful fragrance is diffused around. These ob-
jects contribute to refresh his mind, as much as the sight
of the waters of some clear spring gliding among the
undergrowth seems already to allay his thirst. Overhead
festoons of innumerable vines, jessamines, and bignonias,
link each tree with those around it, their slender stems
being interlaced as if in mutual affection. No sooner, in
the shade of these beautiful woods, has the traveller fin-
ished his mid-day repast than he perceives small parties
of men lightly accoutred, and each bearing an axe, ap-
proaching towards his resting-place. They exchange the
usual civilities, and immediately commence their labors,
for they too have just finished their meal.
I think I see them proceeding to their work. Here
two have stationed themselves on the opposite sides of
the trunk of a noble and venerable live-oak. Their keen-
edged and well-tempered axes seem to make no impres-
sion on it, so small are the chips that drop at each
blow around the mossy and wide-spreading roots. There,
one is ascending the stem of another, of which, in its fall,
the arms have stuck among the tangled tops of the neigh-
boring trees. See how cautiously he proceeds, barefooted,
and with a handkerchief around his head. Now he has
climbed to the height of about forty feet from the ground;
he stops, and squaring himself with the trunk on which
he so boldly stands, he wields with sinewy arms his trusty
blade, the repeated blows of which, although the tree be
as tough as it is large, will soon sever it in two. He has
EPISODES 329
changed sides, and his back is turned to you. The trunk
now remains connected only by a thin strip of wood. He
places his feet on the part which is lodged, and shakes it
with all his might. Now swings the huge log under his
leaps, now it suddenly gives way, and as it strikes upon
the ground its echoes are repeated through the hummock,
and every Wild Turkey within hearing utters his gobble
of recognition. The wood-cutter however, remains col-
lected and composed; but the next moment, he throws
his axe to the ground, and, assisted by the nearest grape-
vine, slides down and reaches the earth in an instant.
Several men approach and examine the prostrate trunk.
They cut at both its extremities, and sound the whole of
its bark, to enable them to judge if the tree has been
attacked by the white rot. If such has unfortunately been
the case, there, for a century or more, this huge log will
remain until it gradually crumbles; but if not, and if it
is free of injury or “wind-shakes,” while there is no
appearance of the sap having already ascended, and its
pores are altogether sound, they proceed to take its meas-
urement. Its shape ascertained, and the timber that is
fit for use laid out by the aid of models, which, like frag-
ments of the skeleton of a ship, show the forms and sizes
required, the “hewers’’ commence their labors. Thus,
reader, perhaps every known hummock in the Floridas is
annually attacked, and so often does it happen that the
white rot or some other disease has deteriorated the qual-
ity of the timber, that the woods may be seen strewn with
trunks that have been found worthless, so that every year
these valuable oaks are becoming scarcer. The destruc-
tion of the young trees of this species caused by the fall
of the great trunks is of course immense, and as there are
no artificial plantations of these trees in our country,
before long a good-sized live-oak will be so valuable that
its owner will exact an enormous price for it, even while
it yet stands in the wood. In my opinion, formed on per-
330 AUDUBON
sonal observation, live-oak hummocks are zot gudte so
plentiful as they are represented to be, and of this I will
give you ove illustration.
On the 25th of February, 1832, I happened to be far
up the St. John’s River in East Florida, in the company
of a person employed by our government in protecting the
live-oaks of that section of the country, and who received
a good salary for his trouble. While we were proceeding
along one of the banks of that most singular stream, my
companion pointed out some large hummocks of dark-
leaved trees on the opposite side, which he said were
entirely formed of live-oaks. I thought differently, and
as our controversy on the subject became a little warm, I
proposed that our men should row us to the place, where
we might examine the leaves and timber, and so decide
the point. We soon landed, but after inspecting the
woods, not a single tree of the species did we find,
although there were thousands of large “swamp-oaks.”
My companion acknowledged his mistake, and I contin-
ued to search for birds.
One dark evening as I was seated on the banks of this
same river, considering what arrangements I should make
for the night, as it began to rain in torrents, a man who
happened to see me, came up and invited me to go to his
cabin, which he said was not far off. I accepted his kind
offer, and followed him to his humble dwelling. There
I found his wife, several children, and a number of men,
who, as my host told me, were, like himself, live-oakers.
Supper was placed on a large table, and on being desired
to join the party, I willingly assented, doing my best to
diminish the contents of the tin pans and dishes set be-
fore the company by the active and agreeable housewife.
We then talked of the country, its climate and produc-
tions, until a late hour, when we laid ourselves down on
Bears’ skins, and reposed till daybreak.
I longed to accompany these hardy woodcutters to the
EPISODES 331
hummock where they were engaged in preparing live-oak
timber for a man-of-war. Provided with axes and guns,
we left the house to the care of the wife and children, and
proceeded for several miles through a pine-barren, such
as I have attempted to describe. One fine Wild Turkey
was shot, and when we arrived at the shanty put up near
the hummock, we found another party of wood-cutters
waiting our arrival, before eating their breakfast, already
prepared by a negro man, to whom the Turkey was con-
signed to be roasted for part of that day’s dinner.
Our repast was an excellent one, and vied with a Ken-
tucky breakfast; beef, fish, potatoes, and other vegetables,
were served up, with coffee in tin cups, and plenty of bis-
cuit. Every man seemed hungry and happy, and the con-
versation assumed the most humorous character. The sun
now rose above the trees, and all, excepting the cook,
proceeded to the hummock, on which I had been gazing
with great delight, as it promised rare sport. My host,
I found, was the chief of the party; and although he also
had an axe, he made no other use of it than for stripping
here and there pieces of bark from certain trees which he
considered of doubtful soundness. He was not only well
versed in his profession, but generally intelligent, and
from him I received the following account, which I noted
at the time.
The men who are employed in cutting the live-oak,
after having discovered a good hummock, build shanties
of small logs, to retire to at night, and feed in by day.
Their provisions consist of beef, pork, potatoes, biscuit,
flour, rice and fish, together with excellent whiskey.
They are mostly hale, strong, and active men, from the
eastern parts of the Union, and receive excellent wages,
according to their different abilities. Their labors are
only of a few months’ duration. Such hummocks as are
found near navigable streams are first chosen, and when
it is absolutely necessary, the timber is sometimes hauled
332 AUDUBON
five or six miles to the nearest water-course, where, al-
though it sinks, it can with comparative ease, be shipped
to its destination. The best time for cutting the live-oak
is considered to be from the first of December to the begin-
ning of March, or while the sap is completely down.
When the sap is flowing, the tree is “bloom,” and more
apt to be “shaken.” The white-rot, which occurs so fre-
quently in the live-oak, and is perceptible only by the
best judges, consists of round spots, about an inch anda
half in diameter, on the outside of the bark, through
which, at that spot, a hard stick may be driven several
inches, and generally follows the heart up or down the
trunk of the tree. So deceiving are these spots and trees
to persons unacquainted with this defect, that thousands
of trees are cut, and afterwards abandoned. The great
number of trees of this sort strewn in the woods would
tend to make a stranger believe that there is much more
good oak in the country than there really is; and per-
haps, in reality, not more than one-fourth of the quantity
usually reported, is to be procured.
The live-oakers generally revisit their distant homes
in the Middle and Eastern Districts, where they spend
the summer, returning to the Floridas at the approach of
winter. Some, however, who have gone there with their
families, remain for years in succession; although they
suffer much from the climate, by which their once good
constitutions are often greatly impaired. This was the
case with the individual above mentioned, from whom I
subsequently received much friendly assistance in my
pursuits.
EPISODES 333
SPRING GARDEN
Havine heard many wonderful accounts of a certain
spring near the sources of the St. John’s River in
East Florida, I resolved to visit it, in order to judge for
myself. On the 6th of January, 1832, I left the planta-
tion of my friend John Bulow, accompanied by an ami-
able and accomplished Scotch gentleman, an engineer
employed by the planters of those districts in erecting
their sugar-house establishments. We were mounted on
horses of the Indian breed, remarkable for their activity
and strength, and were provided with guns and some pro-
visions. The weather was pleasant, but not so our way,
for no sooner had we left the “King’s Road,” which had
been cut by the Spanish government for a goodly dis-
tance, than we entered a thicket of scrubby oaks, suc-
ceeded by a still denser mass of low palmettoes, which
extended about three miles, and among the roots of which
our nags had great difficulty in making good their footing.
After this we entered the pine barrens, so extensively
distributed in this portion of the Floridas. The sand
seemed to be all sand and nothing but sand, and the pal-
mettoes at times so covered the narrow Indian trail which
we followed, that it required all the instinct or sagacity
of ourselves and our horses to keep it. It seemed to us
as if we were approaching the end of the world. The
country was perfectly flat, and, so far as we could survey
it, presented the same wild and scraggy aspect. My com-
panion, who had travelled there before, assured me that,
at particular seasons of the year, he had crossed the bar-
rens when they were covered with water fully knee-deep,
when, according to his expression, they “looked most
awful;” and I readily believed him, as we now and then
passed through muddy pools, which reached the saddle-
girths of our horses. Here and there large tracts covered
334 AUDUBON
with tall grasses, and resembling the prairies of the wes-
tern wilds, opened to our view. Wherever the country
happened to be sunk a little beneath the general level, it
was covered with cypress trees, whose spreading arms
were hung with a profusion of Spanish moss. The soil
in such cases consisted of black mud, and was densely
covered with bushes, chiefly of the Magnolia family.
We crossed in succession the heads of three branches
of Haw Creek, of which the waters spread from a quarter
to half a mile in breadth, and through which we made
our way with extreme difficulty. While in the middle of
one, my companion told me that once, when in the very
spot where we then stood, his horse chanced to place his
fore-feet on the back of a large alligator, which, not well
pleased at being disturbed in his repose, suddenly raised
his head, opened his monstrous jaws, and snapped off part
of the lips of the affrighted pony. You may imagine
the terror of the poor beast, which, however, after a few
plunges, resumed its course, and succeeded in. carrying
its rider through in safety. As a reward for this achieve-
ment, it was ever after honored with the appellation of
“ Alligator.”
We had now travelled about twenty miles, and, the sun
having reached the zenith, we dismounted to partake of
some refreshment. From a muddy pool we contrived to
obtain enough of tolerably clear water to mix with the
contents of a bottle, the like of which I would strongly
recommend to every traveller in these swampy regions;
our horses, too, found something to grind among the herb-
age that surrounded the little pool; but as little time was
to be lost, we quickly remounted, and resumed our dis-
agreeable journey, during which we had at no time pro-
ceeded at a rate exceeding two miles and a half in the
hour.
All at once, however, a wonderful change took place:
—the country became more elevated and undulating; the
EPISODES 335
timber was of a different nature, and consisted of red and
live-oaks, magnolias, and several kinds of pine. Thou-
sands of “Mole-hills,” or the habitations of an animal
here called “the Salamander,” and “ Gopher’s burrows”
presented themselves to the eye, and greatly annoyed
our horses, which now and then sank to the depth of a
foot, and stumbled at the risk of breaking their legs, and
what we considered fully as valuable, our necks. We
now saw beautiful lakes of the purest water, and passed
along a green space, having a series of them on each side
of us. These sheets of water became larger and more
numerous the farther we advanced — some of them extend-
ing to a length of several miles, and having a depth of
from two to twenty feet of clear water; but their shores
being destitute of vegetation, we observed no birds near
them. Many tortoises, however, were seen basking in
the sun, and all, as we approached, plunged into the
water. Not a trace of man did we observe during our
journey, scarcely a bird, and not a single quadruped, not
even a Rat; nor can one imagine a poorer and more deso-
late country than that which lies between the Halifax
River, which we had left in the morning, and the undu-
lating grounds at which we had now arrived.
But at length we perceived the tracks of living beings,
and soon after saw the huts of Colonel Rees’s negroes.
Scarcely could ever African traveller have approached the
city of Timbuctoo with more excited curiosity than we
felt in approaching this plantation. Our Indian horses
seemed to participate in our joy, and trotted at a smart
rate towards the principal building, at the door of which
we leaped from our saddles, just as the sun was withdraw-
ing his ruddy light. Colonel Rees was at home, and
received us with great kindness. Refreshments were
immediately placed before us, and we spent the evening
in agreeable conversation.
The next day I walked over the plantation, and exam-
336 AUDUBON
ining the country around, found the soil of good quality,
it having been reclaimed from swampy ground of a black
color, rich, and very productive. The greater part of the
cultivated land was on the borders of a lake, which com-
municates with others, leading to the St. John’s River,
distant about seven miles, and navigable so far by vessels
not exceeding fifty or sixty tons. After breakfast, our
amiable host showed us the way to the celebrated spring,
the sight of which afforded me pleasure sufficient to coun-
terbalance the tediousness of my journey.
This spring presents a circular basin, having a diame-
ter of about sixty feet, from the centre of which the water
is thrown up with great force, although it does not rise
to a height of more than a few inches above the general
level. A kind of whirlpool is formed, on the edges of
which are deposited vast quantities of shells, with pieces
of wood, gravel, and other substances, which have coa-
lesced into solid masses, having a very curious appear-
ance. The water is quite transparent, although of a dark
color, but so impregnated with sulphur that it emits an
odor which to me was highly nauseous. Its surface lies
fifteen or twenty feet below the level of the woodland
lakes in the neighborhood, and its depth, in the autumnal
months, is about seventeen feet, when the water is low-
est. In all the lakes, the same species of shell as those
thrown up by the spring, occur in abundance, and it seems
more than probable that it is formed of the water col-
lected from them by infiltration, or forms the subterra-
nean outlet of some of them. The lakes themselves are
merely reservoirs, containing the residue of the waters
which fall during the rainy seasons, and contributing to
supply the waters of the St. John’s River, with which they
all seem to communicate by similar means. This spring
pours its waters into “ Rees’s Lake,” through a deep and
broad channel called Spring Garden Creek. This chan-
nel is said to be in some places fully sixty feet deep, but
EPISODES 337
it becomes more shallow as you advance towards the en-
trance of the lake, at which you are surprised to find your-
self on a mud-flat covered only by about fifteen inches of
water, under which the depositions from the spring lie to
a depth of four or five feet in the form of the softest mud,
while under this again is a bed of fine white sand. When
this mud is stirred up by the oars of your boat or other-
wise, it appears of a dark-green color, and smells strongly
of sulphur. At all times it sends up numerous bubbles
of air, which probably consist of suphuretted hydrogen
gas.
The mouth of this curious spring is calculated to be
two and a half feet square; and the velocity of its water,
during the rainy season, is three feet per second. This
would render the discharge per hour about 499,500 gal-
lons. Colonel Rees showed us the remains of another
spring of the same kind, which had dried up from some
natural cause.
My companion, the engineer, having occupation for
another day, I requested Colonel Rees to accompany me
in his boat towards the river St. John’s, which I was desir-
ous of seeing, as well as the curious country in its neigh-
borhood. He readily agreed, and after an early breakfast
next morning, we set out, accompanied by two servants
to manage the boat. As we crossed Rees’s Lake, I ob-
served that its northeastern shores were bounded by a
deep swamp, covered by a rich growth of tall cypresses,
while the opposite side presented large marshes and
islands ornamented by pines, live-oaks, and orange-trees.
With the exception of a very narrow channel, the creek
was covered with nymphez, and in its waters swam
numerous Alligators, while Ibises, Gallinules, Anhingas,
Coots, and Cormorants were seen pursuing their avoca-
tions on its surface or along its margins. Over our heads
the Fish Hawks were sailing, and on the broken trees
around we saw many of their nests.
VOL. 11.— 22
338 AUDUBON
We followed Spring Garden Creek for about two miles
and a half, and passed a mud bar, before we entered
“Dexter's Lake.” The bar was stuck full of unios, in
such profusion that each time the negroes thrust their
hands into the mud they took up several. According to
their report these shell-fish are quite unfit for food. In
this lake the water had changed its hue, and assumed
a dark chestnut color, although it was still transparent.
The depth was very uniformly five feet, and the extent of
the lake was about eight miles by three. Having crossed
it we followed the creek, and soon saw the entrance of
Woodruff’s Lake, which empties its still darker waters
into the St. John’s River.
I here shot a pair of curious Ibises, which you will find
described in my fourth volume, and landed on a small
island covered with wild orange trees, the luxuriance and
freshness of which were not less pleasing to the sight
than the perfume of their flowers was to the smell. The
group seemed to me like a rich bouquet formed by nature
to afford consolation to the weary traveller, cast down by
the dismal scenery of swamps and pools and rank grass
around him. Under the shade of these beautiful ever-
greens, and amidst the golden fruits that covered the
ground, while the Humming-birds fluttered over our
heads, we spread our cloth on the grass, and with a happy
and thankful heart, I refreshed myself with the bountiful
gifts of an ever-careful Providence. Colonel Rees in-
formed me that this charming retreat was one of the
numerous derr@ incognite of this region of lakes, and that
it should henceforth bear the name of “ Audubon’s Isle.”
In conclusion, let me inform you that the spring has
been turned to good account by my generous host, Colonel
Rees, who, aided by my amiable companion, the engin-
eer, has directed its current so as to turn a mill, which
suffices to grind the whole of his sugar-cane.
EPISODES 339
DEATH OF A PIRATE
In the calm of a fine moonlight night, as I was admir-
ing the beauty of the clear heavens, and the broad glare
of light that glanced from the trembling surface of the
waters around, the officer on watch came up and entered
into conversation with me. He had been a turtler in
other years, and a great hunter to boot, and although of
humble birth and pretensions, energy and talent, aided
by education, had raised him toa higher station. Such
aman could not fail to be an agreeable companion, and
we talked on various subjects, principally, you may be
sure, birds and other natural productions. He told me
he once had a disagreeable adventure, when looking out
for game, in a certain cove on the shores of the Gulf of
Mexico; and, on my expressing a desire to hear it, he
willingly related to me the following particulars, which I
give you, not, perhaps, precisely in his own words, but as
nearly so as I can remember.
* Towards evening, one quiet summer day, I chanced to
be paddling along a sandy shore, which I thought well
fitted for my repose, being covered with tall grass, and as
the sun was not many degrees above the horizon, I felt
anxious to pitch my mosquito bar or net, and spend the
night in this wilderness. The bellowing notes of thou-
sands of bull-frogs in a neighboring swamp might lull me
to rest, and I looked upon the flocks of Blackbirds that
were assembling as sure companions in this secluded
retreat.
“TI proceeded up a little stream, to insure the safety
of my canoe from any sudden storm, when, as I gladly
advanced, a beautiful yawl came unexpectedly in view.
Surprised at such a sight in a part of the country then
scarcely known, I felt a sudden check in the circulation
340 AUDUBON
of my blood. My paddle dropped from my hands, and
fearfully indeed, as I picked it up, did I look towards the
unknown boat. On reaching it, I saw its sides marked
with stains of blood, and looking with anxiety over the
gunwale, I perceived, to my horror, two human bodies
covered with gore. Pirates or hostile Indians, I was per-
suaded, had perpetrated the foul deed, and my alarm nat-
urally increased; my heart fluttered, stopped, and heaved
with unusual tremors, and I looked towards the setting
sun in consternation and despair. How long my reveries
lasted I cannot tell; I can only recollect that I was roused
from them by the distant groans of one apparently in mor-
talagony. I felt as if refreshed by the cold perspiration
that oozed from every pore, and I reflected that though
alone, I was well armed, and might hope for the protec-
tion of the Almighty.
“Humanity whispered to me that, if not surprised and
disabled, I might render assistance to some sufferer, or
even be the means of saving a useful life. Buoyed up by
this thought, I urged my canoe on shore, and seizing it by
the bow, pulled it at one spring high among the grass.
“The groans of the unfortunate person fell heavy on my
ear as I cocked and reprimed my gun, and I felt deter-
mined to shoot the first that should rise from the grass.
As I cautiously proceeded, a hand was raised over the
weeds, and waved in the air in the most supplicating
manner. I levelled my gun about a foot below it, when
the next moment the head and breast of a man covered
with blood were convulsively raised, and a faint hoarse
voice asked me for mercy and help! A deathlike silence
followed his fall to the ground. I surveyed every object
around with eyes intent, and ears impressible by the
slightest sound, for my situation that moment I thought
as critical as any I had ever been in. The croaking of
the frogs, and the last Blackbirds alighting on their
roosts, were the only sounds or sights; and I now pro-
EPISODES 341
ceeded towards the object of my mingled alarm and
commiseration.
“Alas! the poor being who lay prostrate at my feet was
so weakened by loss of blood that I had nothing to fear
from him. My first impulse was to run back to the
water, and having done so, I returned with my cap filled
to the brim. I felt at his heart, washed his face and
breast, and rubbed his temples with the contents of a
phial which I kept about me as an antidote for the bites
of snakes. His features, seamed by the ravages of time,
looked frightful and disgusting; but he had been a pow-
erful man, as the breadth of his chest plainly showed.
He groaned in the most appalling manner, as his breath
struggled through the mass of blood that seemed to fill
his throat. His dress plainly disclosed his occupation.
A large pistol he had thrust into his bosom, a naked cut-
lass lay near him on the ground, a red silk handkerchief
was bound over his projecting brows, and over a pair of
loose trousers he wore fisherman’s boots. He was, in
short, a pirate.
“My exertions were not in vain, for as I continued to
bathe his temples he revived, his pulse resumed some
strength, and I began to hope that he might perhaps sur-
vive the deep wounds he had received. Darkness, deep
darkness, now enveloped us. I spoke of making a fire.
‘Oh! for mercy’s sake,’ he exclaimed, ‘don’t.’ Know-
ing, however, that under existing circumstances it was
expedient for me to do so, I left him, went to his boat,
and brought the rudder, the benches, and the oars, which
with my hatchet I soon splintered. I then struck a light,
and presently stood in the glare of a blazing fire. The
pirate seemed struggling between terror and gratitude
for my assistance; he desired me several times in half
English and Spanish to put out the flames; but after I had
given him a draught of strong spirits, he at length be-
came more composed. I tried to stanch the blood that
342 AUDUBON
flowed from the deep gashes in his shoulders and side. I
expressed my regret that I had no food about me, but
when I spoke of eating he sullenly waved his head.
“My situation was one of the most extraordinary that I
have ever been placed in. I naturally turned my talk
towards religious subjects, but, alas, the dying man hardly
believed in the existence of a God. ‘ Friend,’ said he,
‘for friend you seem to be, I have never studied the ways
of Him of whom you talk. Iam an outlaw, perhaps you
will say a wretch —I have been for many years a pirate.
The instructions of my parents were of no avail to me,
for I have always believed that I was born to be a most
cruel man. I now lie here, about to die in the weeds,
because I long ago refused to listen to their many admo-
nitions. Do not shudder when I tell you—these now
useless hands murdered the mother whom they had em-
braced. I feel that I have deserved the pangs of the
wretched death that hovers over me; and I am thankful
that one of my kind will alone witness my last gaspings.’
“ A fond but feeble hope that I might save his life, and
perhaps assist in procuring his pardon, induced me to
speak to him on the subject. ‘It is all in vain, friend
— I have no objection to die —I am glad that the villains
who wounded me were not my conquerors—I want no
pardon from any one. Give me some water, and let me
die alone.’ With the hope that I might learn from his
conversation something that might lead to the capture of
his guilty associates, I returned from the creek with an-
other capful of water, nearly the whole of which I man-
aged to introduce into his parched mouth, and begged
him, for the sake of his future peace, to disclose his his-
tory to me. ‘It is impossible,’ said he; ‘there will not
be time, the beatings of my heart tell meso. Long be-
fore day these sinewy limbs will be motionless. Nay,
there will hardly be a drop of blood in my body; and that
blood will only serve to make the grass grow. My
EPISODES 343
wounds are mortal, and I must and will die without what
you call confession.’
“The moon rose in the east. The majesty of her placid
beauty impressed me with reverence. I pointed towards
her, and asked the pirate if he could not recognize God’s
features there. ‘ Friend, I see what you are driving at,’
was his answer; ‘ you, like the rest of our enemies, feel
the desire of murdering usall. Well—be itso. To die
is, after all, nothing more than a jest; and were it not
for the pain, no one, in my opinion, need care a jot about
it. But, as you really have befriended me, I will tell you
all that is proper.’
“Hoping his mind might take a useful turn, I again
bathed his temples, and washed his lips with spirits.
His sunk eyes seemed to dart fire at mine; a heavy and
deep sigh swelled his chest, and struggled through his
blood-choked throat, and he asked me to raise him for a
little. I did so, when he addressed me somewhat as fol-
lows; for, as I have told you, his speech was a mixture of
Spanish, French, and English, forming a jargon the like
of which I had never heard before, and which I am utterly
unable to imitate. However, I shall give you the sub-
stance of his declaration.
“* First, tell me how many bodies you found in the boat,
and what sort of dresses they had on.’ I mentioned their
number and described their apparel. ‘That’s right,’
said he; ‘they are the bodies of the scoundrels who fol-
lowed me in that infernal Yankee barge. Bold rascals
they were, for when they found the water too shallow for
their craft, they took to it, and waded after me. All my
companions had been shot, and to lighten my own boat I
flung them overboard; but as I lost time in this, the two
ruffians caught hold of my gunwale, and struck on my
head and body in such a manner that after I had disabled
and killed them both in the boat, I was scarce able to
move. The other villains carried off our schooner and
344 AUDUBON
one of our boats, and perhaps ere now have hung all my
companions whom they did not kill at the time. I have
commanded my beautiful vessel many years, captured
many ships, and sent many rascals to the devil. I always
hated the Yankees, and only regret that I have not killed
more of them. —I sailed from Matanzas. —I have often
been in concert with others. I have money without
counting, but it is buried where it will never be found,
and it would be useless to tell you of it.’ His throat
filled with blood, his voice failed, the cold hand of death
was laid on his brow; feebly and hurriedly he muttered,
‘Iam adying man. Farewell!’
“Alas! it is painful to see death in any shape; in this
it was horrible, for there was no hope. The rattling of
his throat announced the moment of dissolution, and
already did the body fall on my arms with a weight that
was insupportable. I laid him on the ground. A mass
of dark blood poured from his mouth; then came a fright-
ful groan, the last breathing of that foul spirit; and what
now lay at my feet in the wild desert? — a mangled mass
of clay!
“The remainder of that night was passed in no enviable
mood; but my feelings cannot be described. At dawn
I dug a hole with the paddle of my canoe, rolled the
body into it, and covered it. On reaching the boat I
found several buzzards feeding on the bodies, which I in
vain attempted to drag to the shore. I therefore covered
them with mud and weeds, and launching my canoe,
paddled from the cove with a secret joy for my escape,
overshadowed with the gloom of mingled dread and
abhorrence.”
EPISODES 345
THE WRECKERS OF FLORIDA
Lone before I reached the lovely islets that border the
southeastern shores of the Floridas, the accounts I had
heard of “The Wreckers” had deeply prejudiced me
against them. Often had I been informed of the cruel and
cowardly methods which it was alleged they employed to
allure vessels of all nations to the dreaded reefs, that they
might plunder their cargoes, and rob their crews and pas-
sengers of their effects. I therefore could have little desire
to meet with such men under any circumstances, much less
to become liable to receive their aid; and with the name
of Wreckers there were associated in my mind ideas of
piratical depredations, barbarous usage, and even murder.
One fair afternoon, while I was standing on the polished
deck of the United States revenue cutter, the “ Marion,” a
sail hove in sight, bearing in an opposite course, and close-
hauled to the wind. The gentle rake of her masts, as she
rocked to and fro in the breeze, brought to my mind the
wavings:of the reeds on the fertile banks of the Mississippi.
By and by the vessel, altering her course, approached us.
The “ Marion,” like a sea-bird with extended wings, swept
through the waters, gently inclining to either side, while
the unknown vessel leaped as it were, from wave to wave,
like the dolphin in eager pursuit of his prey. In a short
time we were gliding side by side, and the commander
of the strange schooner saluted our captain, who promptly
returned the compliment. What a beautiful vessel! we
all thought; how trim, how clean rigged, and how well
manned! She swims like a duck; and now with a broad
sheer, off she makes for the reefs a few miles under our
lee. There, in that narrow passage, well known to her
commander, she rolls, tumbles, and dances, like a giddy
thing, her copper sheathing now gleaming and again dis-
appearing under the waves. But the passage is thridded,
346 AUDUBON
and now, hauling on the wind, she resumes her former
course, and gradually recedes from the view. Reader, it
was a Florida Wrecker.
When at the Tortugas, I paid a visit to several vessels of
this kind, in company with my excellent friend Robert
Day, Esq. We had observed the regularity and quickness.
of the men then employed at their arduous tasks, and as
we approached the largest schooner, I admired her form, so
well adapted to her occupation, her great breadth of beam,
her light draught, the correctness of her water-line, the
neatness of her painted sides, the smoothness of her well-
greased masts, and the beauty of her rigging. We were
welcomed on board with all the frankness of our native
tars. Silence and order prevailed on her decks, The
commander and the second officer led us into a spa-
cious cabin, well-lighted, and furnished with every con-
venience for fifteen or more passengers. The former
brought me his collection of marine shells, and when-
ever I pointed to one that I had not seen before, offered
it with so much kindness that I found it necessary to be
careful in expressing my admiration of any particular shell.
He had also many eggs of rare birds, which were all handed
over to me, with an assurance that before the month should
expire, a new set could easily be procured; “ for,” said he,
‘“‘we have much idle time on the reefs at this season.”
Dinner was served, and we partook of their fare, which con-
sisted of fish, fowl, and other materials. These rovers,
who were both from ‘‘ down east,” were stout, active men,
cleanly and smart in their attire. In a short time we were
all extremely social and merry. They thought my visit to
the Tortugas, in quest of birds, was rather a “curious
fancy; ” but, notwithstanding, they expressed their plea-
sure while looking at some of my drawings, and offered
their services in procuring specimens. Expeditions far
and near were proposed, and on settling that one of them
was to take place on the morrow, we parted friends.
EPISODES 347
Early next morning, several of these kind men accom-
panied me to a small Key called Booby Island, about ten
miles distant from the lighthouse. Their boats were well-
manned, and rowed with long and steady strokes, such as
whalers and men-of-war’s men are wont to draw. The
captain sang, and at times, by way of frolic, ran a race
with our own beautiful bark. The Booby Isle was soon
reached, and our sport there was equal to any we had else-
where. They were capital shots, had excellent guns, and
knew more about Boobies and Noddies than nine-tenths of
the best naturalists in the world. But what will you say
when I tell you the Florida Wreckers are excellent at a
Deer hunt, and that at certain seasons, “ when business is
slack,” they are wont to land on some extensive Key, and
in a few hours procure a supply of delicious venison.
Some days afterwards, the same party took me on an
expedition in quest of sea shells. There we were all in
water, at times to the waist, and now and then much
deeper. Now they would dip, like ducks, and on emerg-
ing would hold up a beautiful shell. This occupation they
seemed to enjoy above all others.
The duties of the ‘‘ Marion,” having been performed, inti-
mation of our intended departure reached the Wreckers.
An invitation was sent to me to go and see them on board
their vessels, which I accepted. Their object on this occa-
sion was to present me with some superb corals, shells, live
Turtles of the Hawk-bill species, and a great quantity of
eggs. Not a “ picayune” would they receive in return, but
putting some letters in my hands, requested me “to be so
good as to put them in the mail at Charleston,” adding that
they were for their wives “down east.” So anxious did
they appear to be to do all they could for me, that they
proposed to sail before the “ Marion,” and meet her under
way, to give me some birds that were rare on the coast,
and of which they knew the haunts. Circumstances con-
nected with “the service” prevented this, however, and
348 AUDUBON
with sincere regret, and a good portion of friendship, I
bade these excellent fellows adieu. How different, thought
I, is often the knowledge of things acquired by personal
observation from that obtained by report!
I had never before seen Florida Wreckers, nor has it
since been my fortune to fall in with any; but my good
friend Dr. Benjamin Strobel, having furnished me with a
graphic account of a few days which he spent with them,
I shall present you with it in his own words: —
“On the 12th day of September, while lying in harbor
at Indian Key, we were joined by five wrecking vessels.
Their licenses having expired, it was necessary to go to Key
West to renewthem. We determined to accompany them
the next morning; and here it will not be amiss for me to
say a few words respecting these far-famed Wreckers, their
captains and crews. From all that I had heard, I expected
to see a parcel of dirty, pirate-looking vessels, officered and
manned by a set of black-whiskered fellows, who carried
murder in their very looks. I was agreeably surprised
on discovering the vessels were fine large sloops and
schooners, regular clippers, kept in first-rate order. The
captains generally were jovial, good-natured sons of Nep-
tune who manifested a disposition to be polite and hos-
pitable, and to afford every facility to persons passing up
and down the Reef. The crews were hearty, well-dressed
and honest-looking men.
“On the 13th, at the appointed hour, we all set sail to-
gether; that is, the five Wreckers and the schooner ‘ Jane.’
As our vessel was not noted for fast sailing, we accepted an
invitation to go on board of a Wrecker. The fleet got
under way about eight o’clock in the morning, the wind
light but fair, the water smooth, the day fine. I can
scarcely find words to express the pleasure and gratifica-
tion which I this day experienced. The sea was of a
beautiful, soft, pea-green color, smooth as a sheet of glass,
and as transparent, its surface agitated only by our vessels
EPISODES 349
as they parted its bosom, or by the Pelican in pursuit of
his prey, which rising for a considerable distance in the air,
would suddenly plunge down with distended mandibles,
and secure his food. The vessels of our little fleet with
every sail set that could catch a breeze, and the white foam
curling round the prows, glided silently along, like islands
of flitting shadows, on an immovable sea of light. Several
fathoms below the surface of the water, and under us, we
saw great quantities of fish diving and sporting among the
sea-grass, sponges, sea-feathers, and corals, with which the
bottom was covered. On our right hand were the Florida
Keys, which, as we made them in the distance, looked like
specks upon the surface of the water, but as we neared
them, rose to view asif by enchantment, clad in the richest
livery of spring, each variety of color and hue rendered
soft and delicate by a clear sky and a brilliant sun over-
head. All was like a fairy scene; my heart leaped up in
delighted admiration, and I could not but exclaim, in the
language of Scott, —
‘ Those seas behold
Round thrice an hundred islands rolled.
The trade wind played round us with balmy and refresh-
ing sweetness; and, to give life and animation to the scene,
we had a contest for the mastery between all the vessels of
the fleet, while a deep interest was excited in favor of this
or that vessel, as she shot ahead, or fell astern.
“ About three o’clock in the afternoon, we arrived off
the Bay of Honda. The wind being light and no prospect
of reaching Key West that night, it was agreed that we
should make a harbor here. We entered a beautiful basin,
and came to anchor about four o’clock. Boats were got
out, and several hunting parties formed. We landed, and
were soon on the scent, some going in search of shells,
others of birds. An Indian, who had been picked up
somewhere along the coast by a Wrecker, and who was
350 AUDUBON
employed as a hunter, was sent ashore in search of venison.
Previous to his leaving the vessel, a rifle was loaded with a
single ball and put into his hands. After an absence of
several hours, he returned with two Deer, which he had
killed at a single shot. He watched until they were both
in range of his gun, side by side, when he fired and brought
them down.
“ All hands having returned, and the fruits of our excur-
sion being collected, we had wherewithal to make an abun-
dant supper. Most of the game was sent on board the largest
vessel, where we proposed supping. Our vessels were all
lying within hail of each other, and as soon as the moon
arose, boats were seen passing from vessel to vessel, and
all were busily and happily engaged in exchanging civili-
ties. One could never have supposed that these men were
professional rivals, so apparent was the good feeling that
prevailed among them. About nine o’clock we started for
supper; a number of persons had already collected, and as
soon as we arrived on board the vessel, a German sailor,
who played remarkably well on the violin, was summoned
on the quarter-deck, when all hands, with a good will,
cheerily danced to lively airs until supper was ready. The
table was laid in the cabin, and groaned under its load of
venison, Wild Ducks, Pigeons, Curlews, and fish. Toasting
and singing succeeded the supper, and among other curious
matters introduced, the following song was sung by the
German fiddler, who accompanied his voice with his instru-
ment. He is said to be the author of the song. I say
nothing of the poetry, but merely give it as it came on my
ear. It is certainly very characteristic: —
THE WRECKERS’ SONG,
Come, ye good people, one and all,
Come listen to my song;
A few remarks I have to make,
Which won’t be very long.
EPISODES 351
’T is of our vessel, stout and good
As ever yet was built of wood,
Along the reef where the breakers roar,
The Wreckers on the Florida shore !
Key Tavernier ’s our rendezvous ;
At anchor there we lie,
And see the vessels in the Gulf,
Carelessly passing by.
When night comes on we dance and sing,
Whilst the current some vessel is floating in;
When daylight comes, a ship ’s on shore,
Among the rocks where the breakers roar.
When daylight dawns we ’re under way,
And every sail is set,
And if the wind it should prove light,
Why, then our sails we wet.
To gain her first each eager strives,
To save the cargo and the people’s lives,
Amongst the rocks where the breakers roar,
The Wreckers on the Florida shore.
When we get ‘longside we find she’s bilged;
We know well what to do,
Save the cargo that we can,
The sails and rigging too;
Then down to Key West we soon will go,
When quickly our salvage we shall know;
When everything it is fairly sold,
Our money down to us it is told.
Then one week’s cruise we’ll have on shore,
Before we do sail again,
And drink success to the sailor lads
That are ploughing of the main.
And when you are passing by this way,
On the Florida reef should you chance to stray,
Why we will come to you on the shore,
Amongst the rocks where the breakers roar.
Great emphasis was laid upon particular words by the
singer, who had a broad German accent. Between the
352 AUDUBON
verses he played an interlude, remarking, ‘Gentlemen, I
makes dat myself.’ The chorus was trolled by twenty
or thirty voices, which, in the stillness of the night,
produced no unpleasant effect.”
ST. JOHN’S RIVER IN FLORIDA
Soon after landing at St. Augustine, in East Florida, I
formed acquaintance with Dr. Simmons, Dr. Porcher,
Judge Smith, the Misses Johnson, and other individuals,
my intercourse with whom was as agreeable as_benefi-
cial to me. Lieutenant Constantine Smith, of the United
States army, I found of a congenial spirit, as was the
case with my amiable but since deceased friend, Dr.
Bell of Dublin. Among the planters who extended their
hospitality to me, I must particularly mention General
Hernandez, and my esteemed friend John Bulow, Esq.
To all these estimable individuals I offer my sincere
thanks.
While in this part of the peninsula I followed my usual
avocation, although with littlé success, it then being winter.
I had letters from the Secretaries of the Navy and Treas-
ury of the United States, to the commanding officers of
vessels of war of the revenue service, directing them to
afford me any assistance in their power; and the schooner
“Spark” having come to St. Augustine, on her way to the
St. John’s River, I presented my credentials to her com-
mander Lieutenant Piercy, who readily and with polite-
ness received me and my assistants on board. We soon
after set sail with a fair breeze. The strict attention to duty
on board even this small vessel of war, afforded matter of
surprise to me. Everything went on with the regularity
of a chronometer: orders were given, answered to, and
accomplished, before they had ceased to vibrate on the
+rfgr ‘te MHGWAAON ‘NOdNaNv ‘f ‘f[ AT ONIMVUG GHHSITANdINA AHL Wout
(‘eoyioed euldye eupyag Aon)
‘UAdIdGNVS GHMNOVE-GaY ‘VNIdTY VONINI
EPISODES 353
ear. The neatness of the crew equalled the cleanliness of
the white planks of the deck; the sails were in perfect
condition; and, built as the “ Spark” was, for swift sailing,
on she went, gambolling from wave to wave.
I thought that, while thus sailing, no feeling but that of
pleasure could exist in our breasts; but, alas! how fleet-
ing are our enjoyments. When we were almost at the
entrance of the river, the wind changed, the sky became
clouded, and, before many minutes had elapsed, the little
bark was lying to “like a Duck,” as her commander ex-
pressed himself. It blew a hurricane—let it blow,
reader. At break of day we were again at anchor within
the bar of St. Augustine.
Our next attempt was successful. Not many hours
after we had crossed the bar, we perceived the star-like
glimmer of the light in the great lantern at the entrance
of the St. John’s River. This was before daylight; and,
as the crossing of the sand-banks or bars, which occur at
the mouths of all the streams of this peninsula is difficult,
and can be accomplished only when the tide is up, one of
the guns was fired as a signal for the government pilot.
The good man, it seemed, was unwilling to leave his
couch, but a second gun brought him in his canoe along-
side. The depth of the channel was barely sufficient.
My eyes, however, were not directed towards the waters,
but on high, where flew some thousands of snowy Peli-
cans, which had fled affrighted from their resting-grounds.
How beautifully they performed their broad gyrations, and
how matchless, after a while, was the marshalling of their
files, as they flew past us.
On the tide we proceeded apace. Myriads of Cormo-
rants covered the face of the waters, and over it Fish-
Crows innumerable were already arriving from their dis-
tant roosts. We landed at one place to search for the
birds whose charming melodies had engaged our atten-
tion, and here and there some young Eagles we shot, to
VOL, 11 — 28
354 AUDUBON
add to our store of fresh provisions, The river did not
seem to me equal in beatty to the fair Ohio; the shores
were in many places low and swampy, to the great delight
of the numberless Herons that moved along in graceful-
ness, and the grim Alligators that swam in sluggish sullen-
ness. In going up a bayou, we caught a great number of
the young of the latter for the purpose of making experi-
ments upon them.
After sailing a considerable way, during which our com-
mander and officers took the soundings, as well as the
angles and bearings of every nook and crook of the sinu-
ous stream, we anchored one evening at a distance of
fully one hundred miles from the mouth of the river.
The weather, although it was the 12th of February, was
quite warm, the thermometer on board standing at 75°,
and on shore at 90°. The fog was so thick that neither of
the shores could be seen, and yet the river was not a mile in
breadth. The “blind mosquitoes” covered every object,
even in the cabin, and so wonderfully abundant were these
tormentors that they more than once fairly extinguished
the candles whilst I was writing my journal, which I
closed in despair, crushing between the leaves more than
a hundred of the little wretches. Bad as they are, how-
ever, these blind mosquitoes do not bite. As if purposely
to render our situation doubly uncomfortable, there was
an establishment for jerking beef on the nearer shores, to
the windward of our vessel, from which the breeze came
laden with no sweet odors.
In the morning when I arose, the country was still
covered with thick fogs, so that although I could plainly
hear the notes of the birds on shore, not an object could
I see beyond the bowsprit, and the air was as close and
sultry as on the previous evening. Guided by the scent
of the jerkers’ works we went on shore, where we found
the vegetation already far advanced. The blossoms of
the jessamine, ever pleasing, lay steeped in dew, the
EPISODES 355
humming bee was collecting her winter’s store from the
snowy flowers of the native orange; and the little warblers
frisked along the twigs of the smilax. Now, amid the
tall pines of the forest, the sun’s rays began to force their
way, and as the dense mists dissolved in the atmosphere,
the bright luminary at length shone forth. We explored
the woods around, guided by some friendly live-oakers
who had pitched their camp in the vicinity. After a while
the “Spark” again displayed her sails, and as she silently
glided along, we spied a Seminole Indian approaching
us in his canoe. The poor, dejected son of the woods,
endowed with talents of the highest order, although rarely
acknowledged by the proud usurpers of his native soil,
has spent the night in fishing, and the morning in procur-
ing the superb feathered game of the swampy thickets;
and with both he comes to offer them for our acceptance.
Alas! thou fallen one, descendant of an ancient line of
freeborn hunters, would that I could restore to thee thy
birthright, thy natural independence, the generous feel-
ings that were once fostered in thy brave bosom. But
the irrevocable deed is done, and I can merely admire
the perfect symmetry of his frame, as he dexterously
throws on our deck the Trout and Turkeys which he has
captured. He receives a recompense, and without smile
or bow, or acknowledgment of any kind, off he starts
with the speed of an arrow from his own bow.
Alligators were extremely abundant, and the heads of
the fishes which they had snapped off, lay floating around
on the dark waters. A rifle bullet was now and then sent
through the eye of one of the largest, which, with a tre-
mendous splash of its tail, expired. One morning we
saw a monstrous fellow lying on the shore. I was desir-
ous of obtaining him to make an accurate drawing of his
head, and accompanied by my assistant and two of the
sailors, proceeded cautiously towards him. When within
a few yards, one of us fired, and sent through his side an
356 AUDUBON
ounce ball which tore open a hole large enough to receive
a man’s hand. He slowly raised his head, bent himself
upwards, opened his huge jaws, swung his tail to and fro,
rose on his legs, blew in a frightful manner, and fell to the
earth. My assistant leaped on shore, and, contrary to
my injunctions, caught hold of the animal’s tail, when
the alligator, awakening from its trance, with a last effort
crawled slowly towards the water, and plunged heavily
into it. Had he thought of once flourishing his tremen-
dous weapon, there might have been an end of his assail-
ant’s life, but he fortunately went in peace to his grave,
where we left him, as the water was too deep. The same
morning, another of equal size was observed swimming
directly for the bows of our vessel, attracted by the gentle
rippling of the water there. One of the officers, who had
watched him, fired, and scattered his brain through the air,
when he tumbled and rolled at a fearful rate, blowing all
the while most furiously. The river was bloody for yards
around, but although the monster passed close by the
vessel, we could not secure him, and after a while he
sunk to the bottom.
Early one morning, I hired a boat and two men, with
the view of returning to St. Augustine by a short-cut.
Our baggage being placed on board, I bade adieu to the
officers, and off we started. About four in the afternoon
we arrived at the short-cut, forty miles distant from our
point of departure, and where we had expected to procure
a wagon, but were disappointed. So we laid our things
on the bank, and leaving one of my assistants to look after
them, I set out accompanied by the other and my New-
foundland dog. We had eighteen miles to go; and as the
sun was only two hours high, we struck off at a good rate.
Presently we entered a pine-barren. The country was as
level as,a floor; our path, although narrow, was well-
beaten, having been used by the Seminole Indians for
ages, and the weather was calm and beautiful. Now and
EPISODES 357
then a rivulet occurred, from which we quenched our
thirst, while the magnolias and other flowering plants
on its banks relieved the dull uniformity of the woods.
When the path separated into two branches, both seem-
ingly leading the same way, I would follow one, while
my companion took the other, and unless we met again
in a short time, one of us would go across the intervening
forest.
The sun went down behind a cloud, and the southeast
breeze that sprung up at this moment, sounded dolefully
among the tall pines. Along the eastern horizon lay a
bed of black vapor, which gradually rose, and soon cov-
ered the heavens. The air felt hot and oppressive, and
we knew that a tempest was approaching. Plato was now
our guide, the white spots on his coat being the only
objects that we could discern amid the darkness, and as
if aware of his utility in this respect, he kept a short way
before us on the trail. Had we imagined ourselves more
than a few miles from the town, we should have made
a camp, and remained under its shelter for the night;
but conceiving that the distance could not be great, we
resolved to trudge along.
Large drops began to fall from the murky mass over-
head; thick impenetrable darkness surrounded us, and to
my dismay, the dog refused to proceed. Groping with
my hands on the ground, I discovered that several trails
branched out at the spot where he lay down; and when
I had selected one, he went on. Vivid flashes of lightning
streamed across the heavens, the wind increased to a gale,
and the rain poured down upon us like a torrent. The
water soon rose on the level ground so as almost to cover
our feet, and we slowly advanced, fronting the tempest.
Here and there a tall pine on fire presented a magnificent
spectacle, illumining the trees around it, and surrounding
them with a halo of dim light, abruptly bordered with the
deep black of the night. At one time we passed through
358 AUDUBON
a tangled thicket of low trees, at another crossed a stream
flushed by the heavy rain, and again proceeded over the
open barrens.
How long we thus, half lost, groped our way is more
than I can tell you; but at length the tempest passed
over, and suddenly the clear sky became spangled with
stars. Soon after, we smelt the salt marshes, and walking
directly towards them, like pointers advancing on a covey
of partridges, we at last to our great joy descried the light
of the beacon near St. Augustine. My dog began to run
briskly around, having met with ground on which he had
hunted before, and taking a direct course, led us to the
great causeway that crosses the marshes at the back of
the town. We refreshed ourselves with the produce of
the first orange-tree that we met with, and in half an hour
more arrived at our hotel. Drenched with rain, steaming
with perspiration, and covered to the knees with mud, you
may imagine what figures we cut in the eyes of the good
people whom we found snugly enjoying themselves in
the sitting-room. Next morning, Major Gates, who had
received me with much kindness, sent a wagon with mules
and two trusty soldiers for my companion and luggage.
THE FLORIDA KEYS
I
As the “ Marion” neared the Inlet called “Indian Key,”
which is situated on the eastern coast of the peninsula of
Florida, my heart swelled with uncontrollable delight. Our
vessel once over the coral reef that everywhere stretches
along the shore like a great wall reared by an army of
giants, we found ourselves in safe anchoring grounds,
within a few furlongs of the land. The next moment
saw the oars of a boat propelling us towards the shore,
EPISODES 359
and in brief time we stood on the desired beach. With
what delightful feelings did we gaze on the objects around
us!—the gorgeous flowers, the singular and beautiful
plants, the luxuriant trees. The balmy air which we
breathed filled us with animation, so pure and _ salubri-
ous did it seem to be. The birds which we saw were
almost all new to us; their lovely forms appeared to be
arrayed in more brilliant apparel than I had ever seen
before, and as they fluttered in happy playfulness among
the bushes, or glided over the light green waters, we
longed to form a more intimate acquaintance with them.
Students of nature spend little time in introductions, es-
pecially when they present themselves to persons who feel
an interest in their pursuits. This was the case with Mr.
Thruston, the deputy collector of the island, who shook
us all heartily by the hand, and in a trice had a boat
manned, and at our service. Accompanied by him, his
pilot and fishermen, off we went, and after a short pull
landed ona large key. Few minutes had elapsed when
shot after shot might be heard, and down came whirling
through the air the objects of our desire. One thrust
himself into the tangled groves that covered all but the
beautiful coral beach that in a continued line bordered the
island, while others gazed on the glowing and diversified
hues of the curious inhabitants of the deep. I saw one of
my party rush into the limpid element to seize on a crab,
that, with claws extended upward, awaited his approach,
as if determined not to give way. A loud voice called
him back to the land, for sharks are as abundant along
these shores as pebbles, and the hungry prowlers could
not have found a more savory dinner.
The pilot, besides being a first-rate shot, possessed a
most intimate acquaintance with the country. He had
been a “conch diver,” and no matter what number of
fathoms measured the distance between the surface of the
water and its craggy bottom, to seek for curious shells in
360 AUDUBON
their retreat seemed to him more pastime than toil. Not
a Cormorant or Pelican, a Flamingo, an Ibis, or Heron
had ever in his days formed its nest without his having
marked the spot; and as to the Keys to which the Doves
are wont to resort, he was better acquainted with them
than many fops are with the contents of their pockets.
In a word, he positively knew every channel that led to
these islands, and every cranny along their shores. For
years his employment had been to hunt those singular
animals called Sea-cows or Manatees, and he had con-
quered hundreds of them, “merely,” as he said, because
the flesh and hide bring “a fair price” at Havana. He
never went anywhere to land without “ Long Tom,” which
proved indeed to be a wonderful gun, and which made smart
havoc when charged with “ groceries” a term by which he
designated the large shot he used. In like manner, he never
paddled his light canoe without having by his side the
trusty javelin with which he unerringly transfixed such
fishes as he thought fit either for market or for his own
use. In attacking Turtles, netting, or overturning them, I
doubt if his equal ever lived on the Florida coast. No
sooner was he made acquainted with my errand, than he
freely offered his best services, and from that moment until
I left Key West he was seldom out of my hearing.
While the young gentlemen who accompanied us were
engaged in procuring plants, shells, and small birds, he
tapped me on the shoulder, and with a smile said to me,
“ Come along, I’ll show you something better worth your
while.” To the boat we betook ourselves, with the cap-
tain and only a pair of tars, for more he said would not
answer. The yawl for a while was urged ata great rate,
but as we approached a point, the oars were taken in, and
the pilot alone sculling desired us to make ready, for ina
few minutes we should have “rare sport.” As we ad-
vanced, the more slowly did we move, and the most pro-
found silence was maintained, until suddenly coming
EPISODES 361
almost in contact with a thick shrubbery of mangroves,
we beheld, right before us, a multitude of Pelicans. A
discharge of artillery seldom produced more effect; the
dead, the dying, and the wounded, fell from the trees upon
the water, while those unscathed flew screaming through
the air in terror and dismay. ‘‘ There,” said he, “ did not
I tell you so; is it not rare sport?” The birds, one after
another, were lodged under the gunwales, when the pilot
desired the captain to order the lads to pull away. Within
about half a mile we reached the extremity of the Key.
“Pull away,” cried the pilot, “never mind them on the
wing, for those black rascals don’t mind a little firing —
now, boys, lay her close under the nests.” And there we
were with four hundred Cormorant’s nests over our heads.
The birds were sitting, and when we fired, the number that
dropped as if dead, and plunged into the water was such,
that I thought by some unaccountable means or other we
had killed the whole colony. You would have smiled at
the loud laugh and curious gestures of the pilot. ‘“ Gentle-
men,” said he, “almost a blank shot!” And so it was,
for, on following the birds as one after another peeped up
from the water, we found only a few unable to take to
wing. ‘ Now,” said the pilot, “had you waited until 7 ad
spoken to the black villains, you might have killed a score
or more of them.” On inspection, we found that our
shots had lodged in the tough dry twigs of which these
birds form their nests, and that we had lost the more favor-
able opportunity of hitting them, by not waiting until they
rose. ‘Never mind,” said the pilot, “if you wish it, you
may load The Lady of the Green Mantle! with them in less
than a week. Stand still, my lads; and now, gentlemen, in
ten minutes you and I will bring down a score of them.”
And so we did. As we rounded the island, a beautiful
bird of the species called Peale’s Egret came up, and was
shot. We now landed, took in the rest of our party, and
1 The name given by the wreckers and smugglers to the “ Marion.”
362 AUDUBON
returned to Indian Key, where we arrived three hours
before sunset.
The sailors and other individuals to whom my name and
pursuits had become known, carried our birds to the pilot’s
house. His good wife had a room ready for me to draw
in, and my assistant might have been seen busily engaged
in skinning, while George Lehman was making a sketch
of the lovely isle.
Time is ever precious to the student of nature. I placed
several birds in their natural attitudes, and began to out-
linethem. A dance had been prepared also, and no sooner
was the sun lost to our eye, than males and females, in-
cluding our captain and others from the vessel, were seen
advancing gayly towards the house in full apparel. The
birds were skinned, the sketch was on paper, and I told
my young men to amuse themselves. As to myself, I could
not join in the merriment, for, full of the remembrance of
you, reader, and of the patrons of my work both in
America and in Europe, I went on “ grinding” — not on
an organ, like the Lady of Bras d’Or, but on paper, to the
finishing not merely of my outlines, but of my notes re-
specting the objects seen this day.
The room adjoining that in which I worked was soon
filled. Two miserable fiddlers screwed their screeching,
silken strings, — not an inch of catgut graced their instru-
ments, — and the bouncing of brave lads and fair lasses
shook the premises to the foundation. One with a slip
came down heavily on the floor, and the burst of laughter
that followed echoed over the isle. Diluted claret was
handed round to cool the ladies, while a beverage of more
potent energies warmed their partners. After supper our
captain returned to the “ Marion,” and I, with my young
men, slept in light swinging hammocks under the eaves of
the piazza.
It was the end of April, when the nights were short, and
the days therefore long. Anxious to turn every moment
EPISODES 363
to account, we were on board Mr. Thruston’s boat at three
next morning. Pursuing our way through the deep and
tortuous channels that everywhere traverse the immense
muddy soap-like flats that stretch from the outward Keys
to the Main, we proceeded on our voyage of discovery.
Here and there we met with great beds of floating sea-
weeds, which showed us that Turtles were abundant there,
these masses being the refuse of their feeding. On talking
to Mr. Thruston of the nature of these muddy flats, he
mentioned that he had once been lost amongst their nar-
row channels for several days and nights, when in pursuit
of some smugglers’ boat, the owners of which were better
acquainted with the place than the men who were along
with him. Although in full sight of several of the Keys,
as well as of the main land, he was unable to reach either
until a heavy gale raised the water, when he sailed directly
over the flats, and returned home almost exhausted with
fatigue and hunger. His present pilot often alluded to the
circumstance afterwards, ending with a great laugh, and
asserting that had he “ been there, the rascals would not
have escaped.”
Coming under a Key on which multitudes of Frigate
Pelicans had begun to form their nests, we shot a good
number of them, and observed their habits. The boastings
of our pilot were here confirmed by the exploits which he
performed with his long gun, and on several occasions he
brought down a bird from a height of fully a hundred
yards. The poor bird, unaware of the range of our artil-
lery, sailed calmly along, so that it was not difficult for
“Long Tom,” or rather for his owner, to furnish us with
as many as we required. The day was spent in this man-
ner, and towards night we returned, laden with booty, to
the hospitable home of the pilot.
The next morning was delightful. The gentle sea-
breeze glided over the flowery isle, the horizon was clear,
and all was silent, save the long breakers that rushed over
364 AUDUBON
the distant reefs. As we were proceeding towards some
Keys seldom visited by men, the sun rose from the bosom
of the waters with a burst of glory that flashed on my soul
the idea of that power which called into existence so mag-
nificent an object. The moon, thin and pale, as if ashamed
to show her feeble light, concealed herself in the dim west.
The surface of the waters shone in its tremulous smooth-
ness, and the deep blue of the clear heavens was pure as the
world that lies beyond them. The Heron _ heavily flew
towards the land, like a glutton retiring at daybreak, with
well lined paunch, from the house of some wealthy patron
of good cheer. The Night Heron and the Owl, fearful of
day, with hurried flight sought safety in the recesses of
the deepest swamps; while the Gulls and Terns, ever
cheerful, gambolled over the water, exulting in the pros-
pect of abundance. I also exulted in hope, my whole
frame seemed to expand; and our sturdy crew showed by
their merry faces that nature had charms for them too.
How much of beauty and joy is lost to them who never
view the rising sun, and of whose waking existence, the
best half is nocturnal.
Twenty miles our men had to row before we reached
“Sandy Island,” and as on its level shores we all leaped,
we plainly saw the southernmost cape of the Foridas. The
flocks of birds that covered the shelly beaches, and those
hovering overhead, so astonished us that we could for a
while scarcely believe our eyes. The first volley procured
a supply of food sufficient for two days’ consumption.
Such tales, you have already been told, are well enough
at a distance from the place to which they refer; but you
will doubtless be still more surprised when I tell you that
our first fire among a crowd of the Great Godwits laid
prostrate sixty-five of these birds. Rose-colored Curlews
stalked gracefully beneath the mangroves. Purple Herons
rose at almost every step we took, and each cactus sup-
ported the nest of a White Ibis. The air was darkened by
EPISODES 365
whistling wings, while, on the waters, floated Gallinules
and other interesting birds. We formed a kind of shed
with sticks and grass, the sailor cook commenced his
labors, and ere long we supplied the deficiencies of our
fatigued frames. The business of the day over, we se-
cured ourselves from insects by means of mosquito-nets,
and were lulled to rest by the cacklings of the beautiful
Purple Gallinules !
In the morning we rose from our sandy beds, and —
THE FLORIDA KEYS
II
I LEFT you abruptly, perhaps uncivilly, reader, at the
dawn of day, on Sandy Island, which lies just six miles
from the extreme point of South Florida. I did so be-
cause I was amazed at the appearance of things around
me, which in fact looked so different then from what they
seemed at night, that it took some minutes’ reflection to
account for the change. When we laid ourselves down in
the sand to sleep, the waters almost bathed our feet; when
we opened our eyes in the morning, they were at an im-
mense distance. Our boat lay on her side, looking not
unlike a whale reposing on a mud bank. The birds in
myriads were probing their exposed pasture-ground.
There great flocks of Ibises fed apart from equally large
collections of Godwits, and thousands of Herons gracefully
paced along, ever and anon thrusting their javelin bills into
the body of some unfortunate fish confined in a small pool
of water. Of Fish-Crows,I could not estimate the number,
but from the havoc they made among the crabs, I con-
jecture that these animals must have been scarce by the
time of next ebb. Frigate Pelicans chased the Jager,
which himself had just robbed a poor Gull of its prize,
and all the Gallinules, ran with spread wings from the
366 AUDUBON
mud-banks to the thickets of the island, so timorous had
they become when they perceived us.
Surrounded as we were by so many objects that allured
us, not one could we yet attain, so dangerous would it
have been to venture on the mud; and our pilot, having
assured us that nothing could be lost by waiting, spoke of
our eating, and on this hint told us that he would take us
to a part of the island where “our breakfast would be
abundant although uncooked.” Off we went, some of the
sailors carrying baskets, others large tin pans and wooden
vessels, such as they use for eating their meals in. Enter-
ing a thicket of about an acre in extent, we found on every
bush several nests of the Ibis, each containing three large
and beautiful eggs, and all hands fell to gathering. The
birds gave way to us, and ere long we had a heap of eggs
that promised delicious food. Nor did we stand long in
expectation, for, kindling a fire, we soon prepared in one
way or other enough to satisfy the cravings of our hungry
maws. Breakfast ended, the pilot, looking at the gorgeous
sunrise, said: ‘‘ Gentlemen, prepare yourselves for fun; the
tide is coming.”
Over these enormous mud-flats, a foot or two of water is
quite sufficient to drive all the birds ashore, even the tallest
Heron or Flamingo, and the tide seems to flow at once
over the whole expanse. Each of us, provided with a gun,
posted himself behind a bush, and no sooner had the water
forced the winged creatures to approach the shore than
the work of destruction commenced. When it at length
ceased, the collected mass of birds of different kinds
looked not unlike a small haycock. Who could not with
a little industry have helped himself to a few of their skins?
Why, reader, surely no one as fond of these things as I am.
Every one assisted in this, and even the sailors themselves
tried their hand at the work.
Our pilot, good man, told us he was no hand at such
occupations and would go after something else. So taking
EPISODES 367
“Long Tom” and his fishing-tackle, he marched off quietly
along the shores. About an hour afterwards we saw him
returning, when he looked quite exhausted, and on our
inquiring the cause said, ‘‘ There is a dewfish yonder, and
a few balacoudas, but I am not able to bring them, or even
to haul them here; please send the sailors after them.”
The fishes were accordingly brought, and as I had never
seen a dewfish, I examined it closely, and took an outline
of its form, which some days hence you may perhaps see.
It exceeded a hundred pounds in weight, and afforded ex-
cellent eating. The balacouda is also a good fish, but at
times a dangerous one, for, according to the pilot, on more
than one occasion ‘‘some of these gentry” had followed
him when waist-deep in the water, in pursuit of a more
valuable prize, until in self-defence, he had to spear them,
fearing that “the gentlemen ” might at one dart cut off his
legs, or some other nice bit, with which he was unwilling
to part.
Having filled our cask from a fine well, long since dug
in the sand of Cape Sable, either by Seminole Indians or
pirates, no matter which, we left Sandy Isle about full
tide,and proceeded homeward, giving a call here and there
at different Keys, with the view of procuring rare birds,
and also their nests and eggs. We had twenty miles to
go, “as the birds fly,” but the tortuosity of the channels
rendered our course fully a third longer. The sun was
descending fast, when a black cloud suddenly obscured
the majestic orb. Our sails swelled by a breeze that was
scarcely felt by us; and the pilot, requesting us to sit on
the weather gunwale, told us that we were “ going to get
it.’ One sail was hauled in and secured, and the other was
reefed, although the wind had not increased. A low
murmuring noise was heard, and across the cloud that now
rolled along in tumultuous masses shot vivid flashes of
lightning. Our experienced guide steered directly across
a flat towards the nearest land. The sailors passed their
368 AUDUBON
quids from one cheek to the other, and our pilot having
covered himself with his oil jacket, we followed his ex-
ample. “Blow, sweet breeze,” cried he at the tiller, and
“we'll reach the land before the blast overtakes us, for,
gentlemen, it is a furious cloud yon.”
A furious cloud indeed was the one which now, like an
eagle on outstretched wings, approached so swiftly that
one might have deemed it in haste to destroy us. We
were not more than a cable’s length from the shore, when,
with an imperative voice, the pilot calmly said to us, “ Sit
quite still, gentlemen, for I should not like to lose you
overboard just now; the boat can’t upset, my word for that,
if you will but sit still— Here we have it!”
Reader, persons who have never witnessed a hurricane,
such as not unfrequently desolates the sultry climates of
the South, can scarcely form an idea of their terrific gran-
deur. One would think that, not content with laying
waste all on land, it must needs sweep the waters of the
shallows quite dry, to quench its thirst. No respite for an
instant does it afford to the objects within the reach of its
furious current. Like the scythe of the destroying angel,
it cuts everything by the roots, as it were, with the careless
ease of the experienced mower. Each of its revolving
sweeps collects a heap that might be likened to the full-
sheaf which the husbandman flings by his side. On it
goes with a wildness and fury that are indescribable, and
when at last its frightful blasts have ceased, Nature, weep-
ing and disconsolate, is left bereaved of her beauteous off-
spring. In some instances, even a full century is required
before, with all her powerful energies, she can repair her
loss. The planter has not only lost his mansion, his crops,
and his flocks, but he has to clear his lands anew, covered
and entangled as they are with the trunks and branches
of trees that are everywhere strewn. The bark, overtaken
by the storm, is cast on the lee-shore, and if any are left to
witness the fatal results, they are the “wreckers” alone,
EPISODES 369
who, with inward delight, gaze upon the melancholy
spectacle.
Our light bark shivered like a leaf the instant the blast
reached her sides. We thought she had gone over; but
the next instant she was on the shore. And now in con-
templation of the sublime and awful storm, I gazed around
me. The waters drifted like snow; the tough mangroves
hid their tops amid their roots, and the loud roaring of the
waves driven among them blended with the howl of the
tempest. It was not rain that fell; the masses of water
flew in a horizontal direction, and where a part of my body
was exposed I felt as if a smart blow had been given me on
it. But enough—in half an hour it was over. The pure
blue sky once more embellished the heavens, and although
it was now quite night, we considered our situation a
good one.
The crew and some of the party spent the night in the
boat. The pilot, myself, and one of my assistants took to
the heart of the mangroves, and having found high land,
we made a fire as well as we could, spread a tarpauling,
and fixing our insect bars over us, soon forgot in sleep the
horrors that had surrounded us.
Next day the “ Marion” proceeded on her cruise, and
in a few more days, having anchored in another safe har-
bor, we visited other Keys, of which I will, with your leave,
give you a short account.
The deputy-collector of Indian Isle gave me the use of
his pilot for a few weeks, and I was the more gratified by
this, that besides knowing him to be a good man, and a
perfect sailor, I was now convinced that he possessed a
great knowledge of the habits of birds, and could without
loss of time lead me to their haunts. We were a hundred
miles or so farther to the south. Gay May, like a playful
babe, gambolled on the bosom of his mother Nature, and
everything was replete with life and joy. The pilot had
spoken to me of some birds which I was very desirous of
VOL. II. — 24
370 AUDUBON
obtaining. One morning, therefore, we went in two boats
to some distant isle, where they were said to breed. Our
difficulties in reaching that Key might to some seem more
imaginary than real, were I faithfully to describe them.
Suffice it for me to tell you that after hauling our boats
and pushing them with our hands, for upwards of nine
miles, over the flats, we at last reached the deep channel
that usually surrounds each of the mangrove islands. We
were much exhausted by the labor and excessive heat,
but we were now floating on deep water, and by resting a
short while under the shade of some mangroves, we were
soon refreshed by the breeze that gently blew from the
Gulf. We further repaired our strength by taking some
food; and I may as well tell you here that, during all the
time I spent in that part of the Floridas, my party re-
stricted themselves to fish and soaked biscuit, while our
only and constant beverage was molasses and water. I
found that in these warm latitudes, exposed as we con-
stantly were to alternate heat and moisture, ardent spirits
and more substantial food would prove dangerous to us.
The officers, and those persons who from time to time
kindly accompanied us, adopted the same regimen, and
not an individual of us had ever to complain of so much
as a headache.
But we were under the mangroves ; at a great distance
on one of the flats, the Heron which I have named Ardea
occidentalis! was seen moving majestically in great numbers.
The tide rose and drove them away, and as they came
towards us, to alight and rest for a time on the tallest trees,
we shot as many as I wished. I also took under my
charge several of their young alive.
At another time we visited the “Mule Keys.” There
the prospect was in many respects dismal in the extreme.
As I followed their shores, I saw bales of cotton floating
in all the coves, while spars of every description lay on
1 Plate cclxxxi., ed. 1827-1839 ; plate ccclxviii., ed. 1843.
EPISODES 371
the beach, and far off on the reefs I could see the last
remains of a lost ship, her dismantled hulk. Several
schooners were around her ; they were wreckers. I turned
me from the sight with a heavy heart. Indeed, as I slowly
proceeded, I dreaded to meet the floating or cast-ashore
bodies of some of the unfortunate crew. Our visit to the
Mule Keys was in no way profitable, for besides meeting
with but a few birds, in two or three instances I was,
whilst swimming in the deep channel of a mangrove isle,
much nearer a large shark than I wish ever to be again.
“ The service ” requiring all the attention, prudence, and
activity of Captain Day and his gallant officers, another
cruise took place, of which you will find some account in
the sequel; and while I rest a little on the deck of the
“Lady of the Green Mantle,” let me offer my humble
thanks to the Being who has allowed me the pleasure of
thus relating to you, kind reader, a small part of my
adventures.
THE TURTLERS
THE Tortugas are a group of islands lying about eighty
miles from Key West, and the last of those that seem
to defend the peninsula of the Floridas. They consist
of five or six extremely low, uninhabitable banks, formed
of shelly sand, and are resorted to principally by that
class of men called wreckers and turtlers. Between
these islands are deep channels, which, although extremely
intricate, are well known to those adventurers, as well as to
the commanders of the revenue cutters, whose duties call
them to that dangerous coast. The great coral reef, or
wall, lies about eight miles from these inhospitable isles,
in the direction of the Gulf, and on it many an ignorant
or careless navigator has suffered shipwreck. The whole
ground around them is densely covered with corals, sea-
372 AUDUBON
fans, and other productions of the deep, amid which crawl
innumerable testaceous animals, while shoals of curious
and beautiful fishes fill the limpid waters above them.
Turtles of different species resort to these banks, to de-
posit their eggs in the burning sand, and clouds of sea-
fowl arrive every spring for the same purpose. These are
followed by persons called ‘“ eggers,” who, when their
cargoes are completed, sail to distant markets, to exchange
their ill-gotten ware for a portion of that gold on the
acquisition of which all men seem bent.
The “ Marion” having occasion to visit the Tortugas, I
gladly embraced the opportunity of seeing those cele-
brated islets. A few hours before sunset the joyful cry
of “ Land!” announced our approach to them; but as the
breeze was fresh, and the pilot was well acquainted with
all the windings of the channels, we held on, and dropped
anchor before twilight. If you have never seen the sun
setting in those latitudes, I would recommend to you to
make a voyage for the purpose, for I much doubt if, in
any other portion of the world, the departure of the orb
of day is accompanied with such gorgeous appearances.
Look at the great red disk, increased to triple its ordi-
nary dimensions! Now it has partially sunk beneath
the distant line of waters, and with its still remaining half
irradiates the whole heavens with a flood of golden light,
purpling the far-off clouds that hover over the western
horizon. A blaze of refulgent glory streams through the
portals of the west, and the masses of vapor assume the
semblance of mountains of molten gold. But the sun has
now disappeared, and from the east slowly advances the
gray curtain which night draws over the world.
The Night-hawk is flapping its noiseless wings in the
gentle sea-breeze; the Terns, safely landed, have settled
on their nests; the Frigate Pelicans are seen wending their
way to distant mangroves; and the Brown Gannet, in
search of a resting-place, has perched on the yard of the
EPISODES 373
vessel. Slowly advancing landward, their heads alone
above the water, are observed the heavily laden Turtles,
anxious to deposit their eggs in the well-known sands.
On the surface of the gently rippling stream, I dimly see
their broad forms, as they toil along, while at intervals
may be heard their hurried breathings, indicative of sus-
picion and fear. The moon with her silvery light now
illumines the scene, and the Turtle, having landed, slowly
and laboriously drags her heavy body over the sand, her
“flippers”? being better adapted for motion in the water
than on shore. Up the slope, however, she works her
way; and see how industriously she removes the sand be-
neath her, casting it out on either side. Layer after layer
she deposits her eggs, arranging them in the most careful
manner, and with her hind paddles brings the sand over
them. The business is accomplished, the spot is covered
over, and with a joyful heart the Turtle swiftly retires
towards the shore, and launches into the deep.
But the Tortugas are not the only breeding places of
the Turtles; these animals, on the contrary, frequent many
other Keys, as well as various parts of the coast of the
mainland. There are four different species, which are
known by the names of the Green Turtle, the Hawk-billed
Turtle, the Logger-head Turtle, and the Zvunk Turtle.
The first is considered the best as an article of food, in
which capacity it is well known to most epicures. It ap-
proaches the shores, and enters the bays, inlets, and rivers,
early in the month of April, after having spent the winter
in the deep waters. It deposits its eggs in convenient
places, at two different times in May, and once again in
June. The first deposit is the largest, and the last the
least, the total quantity being, at an average, about two
hundred and forty. The Hawk-billed Turtle, whose shell
is so valuable as an article of commerce, being used for
various purposes in the arts, is the next with respect to
the quality of its flesh. It resorts to the outer Keys only,
374 AUDUBON
where it deposits its eggs in two sets, first in July, and
again in August, although it “crawls” the beaches of
these Keys much earlier in the season, as if to look fora
safe place. The average number of its eggs is about three
hundred. The Logger-head visits the Tortugas in April,
and lays from that period until late in June three sets of
eggs, each set averaging one hundred and seventy. The
Trunk Turtle, which is sometimes of an enormous size, and
which has a pouch like a Pelican, reaches the shores latest.
The shell and flesh are so soft that one may push his finger
into them, almost as into a lump of butter. This species
is therefore considered as the least valuable, and, indeed,
is seldom eaten, unless by the Indians, who, ever alert
when the Turtle season commences, first carry off the
eggs, and afterwards catch the Turtles themselves. The
average number of eggs which it lays in the season,
in two sets, may be three hundred and fifty.
The Logger-head and the Trunk Turtles are the least
cautious in choosing the places in which to deposit their
eggs, whereas the two other species select the wildest and
most secluded spots. The Green Turtle resorts either
to the shores of the Main, between Cape Sable and Cape
Florida, or enters Indian, Halifax, and other large rivers
or inlets, from which it makes its retreat as speedily as
possible, and betakes itself-to the open sea. Great num-
bers, however, are killed by the turtlers and Indians, as
well as by various species of carnivorous animals, as
Cougars, Lynxes, Bears, and Wolves. The Hawk-bill,
which is still more wary, and is always the most difficult
to surprise, keeps to the sea-islands. All the species
employ nearly the same method in depositing their eggs
in the sand, and as I have several times observed them in
the act, I am enabled to present you with a circumstantial
account of it.
On first nearing the shores, and mostly on fine, calm,
moonlight nights, the Turtle raises her head above the
EPISODES 375
water, being still distant thirty or forty yards from the
beach, looks around her, and attentively examines the
objects on the shore. Should she observe nothing likely
to disturb her intended operations, she emits a loud hiss-
ing sound, by which such of her many enemies as are
unaccustomed to it are startled, and so are apt to re-
move to another place, although unseen by her. Should
she hear any noise, or perceive indications of danger,
she instantly sinks, and goes off to a considerable dis-
tance; but should everything be quiet, she advances
slowly towards the beach, crawls over it, her head raised
to the full stretch of her neck, and when she has reached
a place fitted for her purpose, she gazes all round in
silence. Finding “all well” she proceeds to form a hole
in the sand, which she effects by removing it from uz-
der her body with her znd flippers, scooping it out
with so much dexterity that the sides seldom if ever fall
in. The sand is raised alternately with each flipper, as
with a large ladle, until it has accumulated behind her,
when, supporting herself with her head and fore part on
the ground fronting her body, she, with a spring from
each flipper, sends the sand around her, scattering it to the
distance of several feet. In this manner the hole is dug to
the depth of eighteen inches, or sometimes more than two
feet. This labor I have seen performed in the short
period of nine minutes. The eggs are then dropped one
by one, and disposed in regular layers, to the number of a
hundred and fifty, or sometimes nearly two hundred. The
whole time spent in this part of the operation may be
about twenty minutes. She now scrapes the loose sand
back over the eggs, and so levels and smooths the surface
that few persons on seeing the spot could imagine any-
thing had been done to it. This accomplished to her
mind, she retreats to the water with all possible despatch,
leaving the hatching of the eggs to the heat of the sand.
When a Turtle, a Logger-head for example, is in the act
376 AUDUBON
of dropping her eggs, she will not move, although one
should go up to her, or even seat himself on her back,
for it seems that at this moment she finds it necessary to
proceed at all events, and is unable to intermit her labor.
The moment it is finished, however, off she starts; nor
would it then be possible for one, unless he were as strong
as a Hercules, to turn her over and secure her.
To upset a Turtle on the shore, one is obliged to fall on
his knees, and placing his shoulder behind her fore-arm,
gradually raise her up by pushing with great force, and
then with a jerk throw her over. Sometimes it requires
the united strength of several men to accomplish this;
and, if the Turtle should be of very great size, as often
happens on that coast, even handspikes are employed.
Some turtlers are so daring as to swim up to them while
lying asleep on the surface of the water, and turn them
over in their own element, when, however, a boat must be
at hand, to enable them to secure their prize. Few
Turtles can bite beyond the reach of their fore-legs, and
few, when once turned over, can, without assistance, regain
their natural position; but, notwithstanding this, their
flippers are generally secured by ropes so as to render
their escape impossible.
Persons who search for Turtles’ eggs, are provided with
a light stiff cane or a gun-rod, with which they go along the
shores probing the sand near the tracks of the animals,
which, however, cannot always be seen, on account of the
winds and heavy rains that often obliterate them. The
nests are discovered not only by men, but also by beasts of
prey, and the eggs are collected, or destroyed on the spot,
in great numbers, as on certain parts of the shores hun-
dreds of Turtles are known to deposit their eggs within the
space of a mile. They form a new hole each time they lay,
and the second is generally dug near the first, as if the
animal were quite unconscious of what had befallen it. It
will readily be understood that the numerous eggs seen
EPISODES 377
in a Turtle on cutting it up, could not be all laid the same
season. The whole number deposited by an individual in
one summer may amount to four hundred, whereas, if the
animal is caught on or near her nest, as I have witnessed,
the remaining eggs, all small, without shells, and as it were
threaded like so many large beads, exceed three thousand.
In an instance where I found that number, the Turtle
weighed nearly four hundred pounds. The young, soon
after being hatched, and when yet scarcely larger than a
dollar, scratch their way through their sandy covering,
and immediately betake themselves to the water.
_ The food of the Green Turtle consists chiefly of marine
plants, more especially the Grasswrack (Zostera marina)
which they cut near the roots to procure the most tender
and succulent parts. Their feeding-grounds, as I have
elsewhere said, are easily discovered by floating masses
of these plants on the flats, or along the shores to
which they resort. The Hawk-billed species feeds on
sea-weeds, crabs, various kinds of shell-fish and fishes;
the Logger-head mostly on the fish of conch-shells of
large size, which they are enabled, by means of their
powerful beak, to crush to pieces with apparently as much
ease as a man cracks a walnut. One which was brought
on board the “ Marion,” and placed near the fluke of one
of her anchors, made a deep indentation in that hammered
piece of iron, which quite surprised me. The Trunk
Turtle feeds on mollusca, fish, crustacea, sea urchins, and
various marine plants.
All the species move through the water with surprising
speed; but the Green and Hawk-billed, in particular, re-
mind you, by their celerity and the ease of their motions,
of the progress of a bird in the air. It is, therefore, no
easy matter to strike one with a spear, and yet this is
often done by an accomplished turtler.
While at Key West, and other islands on the coast,
where I made the observations here presented to you, I
378 AUDUBON
chanced to have need to purchase some Turtles, to feed
my friends on board “ The Lady of the Green Mantle ”—
not my friends her gallant officers, or the brave tars who
formed her crew, for all of them had already been satiated
with Turtle soup, but my friends the Herons, of which
I had a goodly number alive in coops, intending to carry
them to John Bachman of Charleston, and other persons
for whom I ever feel a sincere regard. So I went to a
“‘crawl” accompanied by Dr. Benjamin Strobel, to in-
quire about prices, when, to my surprise, I found that
the smaller the Turtles above ten-pounds weight, the
dearer they were, and that I could have purchased one of
the Logger-head kind that weighed more than seven hun-
dred pounds, for little more money than another of only
thirty pounds. While I gazed on the large one, I thought
of the soups the contents of its shell would have furnished
for a “Lord Mayor’s dinner,” of the numerous eggs which
its swollen body contained, and of the curious carriage
which might be made of its shell —a car in which Venus
herself might sail over the Caribbean Sea, provided her
tender Doves lent their aid in drawing the divinity, and
provided no shark or hurricane came to upset it. The
turtler assured me that although the “great monster”
was, in fact, better meat than any other of a less size,
there was no disposing of it, unless, indeed, it had been
in his power to have sent it to some very distant market.
I would willingly have purchased it, but I knew that if
killed, its flesh could not keep much longer than a day,
and on that account I bought eight or ten small ones,
which “my friends” really relished exceedingly, and
which served to support them for a long time.
Turtles, such as I have spoken of, are caught in various
ways on the coasts of the Floridas, or in estuaries and
rivers. Some turtlers are in the habit of ‘setting great
nets across the entrance of streams, so as to answer the
purpose either at the flow or at the ebb of the waters.
EPISODES 379
These nets are formed of very large meshes, into which
the Turtles partially enter, when, the more they attempt
to extricate themselves, the more they get entangled.
Others harpoon them in the usual manner; but in my
estimation no method is equal to that employed by Mr.
Egan, the pilot of Indian Isle.
That extraordinary turtler had an iron instrument
which he called a geg, and which at each end had a point
not unlike what nail-makers call a brad, it being four-
cornered but flattish, and of a shape somewhat resem-
bling the beak of an Ivory-billed Woodpecker, together
with a neck and shoulder. Between the two shoulders
of this instrument a fine tough-line, fifty or more fathoms
in length, was fastened by one end being passed through
a hole in the centre of the peg and the line itself was
carefully coiled up, and placed in a convenient part of the
canoe. One extremity of this peg enters a sheath of iron
that loosely attaches it to a long wooden spear, until
a Turtle has been pierced through the shell by the other
extremity. He of the canoe paddles away as silently
as possible whenever he spies a Turtle basking on the
water, until he gets within a distance of ten or twelve
yards, when he throws the spear so as to hit the animal
about the place which an entomologist would choose,
were it a large insect, for pinning it to a piece of cork.
As soon as the Turtle is struck, the wooden handle separ-
ates from the peg, in consequence of the looseness of its
attachment. The smart of the wound urges on the
animal as if distracted, and it appears that the longer
the peg remains in its shell, the more firmly fastened it
is, so great a pressure is exercised upon it by the shell of
the Turtle, which, being suffered to run like a whale, soon
becomes fatigued, and is secured by hauling in the line
with great care. In this manner, as the pilot informed
me, eight hundred Green Turtles were caught by one man
in twelve months.
380 AUDUBON
Each turtler has his cvaw/, which is a square wooden
building or pen formed of logs, which are so far separated
as to allow the tide to pass freely through, and stand erect
in the mud. The Turtles are placed in this enclosure, fed
and kept there until sold. If the animals thus confined
have not laid their eggs previous to their seizure, they
drop them in the water, so that they are lost. The price
of Green Turtles, when I was at Key West, was from four |
to six cents per pound.
The loves of the Turtles are conducted in the most
extraordinary manner; but as the recital of them must
prove out of place here, I shall pass them over. There is,
however, a circumstance relating to their habits which I
cannot omit, although I have it not from my own ocular
evidence, but from report. When I was in the Floridas
several of the turtlers assured me that any Turtle taken
from the depositing ground, and carried on the deck
of a vessel several hundred miles, would, if then let
loose, certainly be met with at the same spot, either
immediately after, or in the following breeding season.
Should this prove true, and it certainly may, how much
will be enhanced the belief of the student in the uniformity
and solidity of Nature’s arrangements, when he finds that
the Turtle, like a migratory bird, returns to the same
locality, with perhaps a delight similar to that experienced
by the traveller, who, after visiting distant countries, once
more returns to the bosom of his cherished family.
THE FORCE OF THE WATERS
THE men who are employed in cutting down the trees,
and conveying the logs to the saw-mills or the places for
shipping, are, in the State of Maine, called “lumberers.”
Their labors may be said to be continual. Before winter
has commenced, and while the ground is yet uncovered
EPISODES 381
with a great depth of snow, they leave their homes to pro-
ceed to the interior of the pine forests, which in that part
of the country are truly magnificent, and betake themselves
to certain places already well known to them. Their pro-
visions, axes, saws, and other necessary articles, together
with provender for their cattle, are conveyed by oxen in
heavy sledges. Almost at the commencement of their
march, they are obliged to enter the woods, and they have
frequently to cut a way for themselves for considerable
spaces, as the ground is often covered with the decaying
trunks of immense trees, which have fallen either from age,
or in consequence of accidental burnings. These trunks, and
the undergrowth which lies entangled in their tops render
many places almost impassable even to men on foot. Over
miry ponds they are sometimes forced to form causeways,
this being, under all circumstances, the easiest mode of
reaching the opposite side. Then, reader, is the time for
witnessing the exertions of their fine large cattle. No
rods do their drivers use to pain their flanks; no oaths or
imprecations are ever heard to fall from the lips of these
most industrious and temperate men, for in them, as in
most of the inhabitants of our Eastern States, education
and habit have tempered the passions, and reduced the
moral constitution to a state of harmony. Nay, the sobriety
that exists in many of the villages of Maine, I acknowledge,
I have often considered as carried to excess, for on asking
for brandy, rum, or whiskey, not a drop could I obtain, and
it is probable there was an equal lack of spirituous liquors
of every other kind. Now and then I saw some good old
wines, but they were always drunk in careful moderation.
But to return to the management of the oxen. Why,
reader, the lumbermen speak to them as if they were
rational beings. Few words seem to suffice, and their
whole strength is applied to the labor, as if in gratitude
to those who treat them with so much gentleness and
humanity.
382 AUDUBON
While present on more than one occasion at what
Americans call “ploughing matches,” which they have
annually in many of the States, I have been highly grati-
fied, and in particular at one, of which I have still a strong
recollection, and which took place a few miles from the fair
and hospitable city of Boston. There I saw fifty or more
ploughs drawn by as many pairs of oxen, which performed
their work with so much accuracy and regularity — without
the infliction of whip or rod, but merely guided by the
verbal mandates of the ploughmen — that I was perfectly
astonished.
After surmounting all obstacles, the lumberers with their
stock arrive at the spot which they have had in view, and
immediately commence building acamp. The trees around
soon fall under the blows of their axes, and before many
days have elapsed a low habitation is reared and fitted
within for the accommodation of their cattle, while their
provender is secured on a kind of loft covered with broad
shingles or boards. Then their own cabin is put up;
rough bedsteads, manufactured on the spot, are fixed in
the corners; a chimney composed of a frame of sticks
plastered with mud leads away the smoke; the skins of
Bears or Deer, with some blankets, form their bedding, and
around the walls are hung their changes of homespun
clothing, guns, and various necessaries of life. Many
prefer spending the night on the sweet-scented hay and
corn blades of their cattle, which are laid on the ground.
All arranged within, the lumberers set their “ dead falls,”
large “steel traps,” and “spring guns,” in suitable places
round their camps, to procure some of the Bears that ever
prowl around such establishments.
Now the heavy clouds of November, driven by the
northern blasts, pour down the snow in feathery flakes.
The winter has fairly set in, and seldom do the sun’s glad-
dening rays fall on the wood-cutter’s hut. In warm flannels
his body is enveloped, the skin of a Raccoon covers his
EPISODES 383
head and brows, his Moose-skin leggings reach the girdle
that secures them around his waist, while on broad mocca-
sins, or snow-shoes, he stands from the earliest dawn until
night, hacking away at majestic pines, that for a century
past have embellished the forest. The fall of these valu-
able trees no longer resounds on the ground; and, as they
tumble here and there nothing is heard but the rustling and
cracking of their branches, their heavy trunks sinking into
the deep snows. Thousands of large pines thus cut down
every winter afford room for younger trees, which spring
up profusely to supply the wants of man.
Weeks and weeks have elapsed; the earth’s pure white
covering has become thickly and firmly crusted by the in-
creasing intensity of the cold, the fallen trees have all been
sawn into measured logs, and the long repose of the oxen
has fitted them for hauling them to the nearest frozen
streams. The ice gradually becomes covered with the
accumulating mass of timber, and, their task completed,
the lumberers wait impatiently for the breaking up of
the winter. :
At this period they pass the time in hunting the Moose,
the Deer, and the Bear, for the benefit of their wives and
children; and as these men are most excellent woodsmen
great havoc is made among the game. Many skins of
Sables, Martens, and Musk-Rats they have procured during
the intervals of their labor, or under night. The snows
are now giving way, as the rains descend in torrents, and
the lumberers collect their utensils, harness their cattle,
and prepare for their return. This they accomplish in
safety.
From being lumberers they now become millers, and with
pleasure each applies the grating file to his saws. Many
logs have already reached the dams on the swollen waters
of the rushing streams, and the task commences, which is
carried on through the summer, of cutting them up into
boards.
384 AUDUBON
The great heats of the dog-days have parched the ground ;
every creek has become a shallow, except here and there
where in a deep hole the salmon and the trout have found
a retreat; the sharp, slimy angles of multitudes of rocks
project, as if to afford resting-places to the Wood-ducks
and Herons that breed on the borders of these streams.
Thousands of “saw-logs” remain in every pool, beneath
and above each rapid or fall. The miller’s dam has been
emptied of its timber, and he must now resort to some
expedient to procure a fresh supply.
It was my good fortune to witness the method employed
for the purpose of collecting the logs that had not reached
their destination, and I had the more pleasure that it was
seen in company with my little family. I wish, for your
sake, reader, that I could describe in an adequate manner
the scene which I viewed; but, although not so well quali-
fied as I could wish, rely upon it that the desire which I
feel to gratify you will induce me to use all my endeavors
to give you an zdea of it.
It was the month of September. At the upper extremity
of Dennysville, which is itself a pretty village, are the saw-
mills and ponds of the hospitable Judge Lincoln and other
persons. The creek that conveys the logs to these ponds,
and which bears the name of the village, is interrupted in
its course by many rapids and narrow embanked gorges.
One of the latter is situated about half a mile above the
mill-dams, and is so rocky and rugged in its bottom and
sides as to preclude the possibility of the trees passing
along it at low water, while, as I conceived, it would have
given no slight labor to an army of woodsmen or millers to
move the thousands of large logs that had accumulated
in it. They lay piled in confused heaps to a great height
along an extent of several hundred yards, and were in some
places so close as to have formed a kind of dam. Above
the gorge there is a large natural reservoir, in which the
head-waters of the creek settle, while only a small portion
EPISODES 385
of them ripples through the gorge below, during the later
weeks of summer and in early autumn, when the streams
are at their lowest.
At the zeck of this basin the lumberers raised a tempo-
rary barrier with the refuse of their sawn logs. The boards
were planted nearly upright, and supported at their tops
by a strong tree extending from side to side of the creek,
which might there be about forty feet in breadth. It was
prevented from giving way under pressure of the rising
waters by having strong abutments of wood laid against
its centre, while the ends of these abutments were secured
by wedges, which could be knocked off when necessary.
The temporary dam was now finished. Little or no
water escaped through the barrier, and that in the creek
above it rose in the course of three weeks to its top, which
was about ten feet high, forming a sheet that extended
upwards fully a mile from the dam. My family was invited
early one morning to go and witness the extraordinary
effect which would be produced by the breaking down of
the barrier, and we all accompanied the lumberers to the
place. Two of the men, on reaching it, threw off their
jackets, tied handkerchiefs round their heads, and fastened
to their bodies a long rope, the end of which was held by
three or four others, who stood ready to drag their com-
panions ashore, in case of danger or accident. The two
operators, each bearing an axe, walked along the abutments,
and at a given signal knocked out the wedges. A second
blow from each sent off the abutments themselves, and the
men, leaping with extreme dexterity from one cross log to
another, sprung to the shore with almost the quickness of
thought.
Scarcely had they effected their escape from the frightful
peril which threatened them, when the mass of waters burst +
forth with a horrible uproar. Alf eyes were bent towards
the huge heaps of logs in the gorge below. The tumultuous
burst of the waters instantly swept away every object that
VOL, 11. —25
386 AUDUBON
opposed their progress, and rushed in foaming waves
among the timbers that everywhere blocked up the pas-
sage. Presently a slow, heavy motion was perceived in
the mass of logs; one might have imagined that some
mighty monster lay convulsively writhing beneath them,
struggling with a fearful energy to extricate himself from
the crushing weight. As the waters rose, this movement
increased; the mass of timber extended in all directions,
appearing to become more and more entangled each mo-
ment; the logs bounced against each other, thrusting aside,
demersing, or raising into the air those with which they
came in contact; it seemed as if they were waging a war
of destruction, such as ancient authors describe the efforts
of the Titans, the foamings of whose wrath might to the
eye of the painter have been represented by the angry
curlings of the waters, while the tremulous and rapid
motions of the logs, which at times reared themselves
almost perpendicularly, might by the poet have been
taken for the shakings of the confounded and discomfited
giants.
Now the rushing element filled up the gorge to its brim.
The logs, once under way, rolled, reared, tossed, and tum-
bled amid the foam, as they were carried along. Many
of the smaller trees broke across, from others great splinters
were sent up, and all were in some degree seamed and
scarred. Then in tumultuous majesty swept along the
mingled wreck, the current being now increased to such a
pitch that the logs, as they were dashed against the rocky
shores, resounded like the report of distant artillery, or the
angry rumblings of the thunder. Onward it rolls, the
emblem of wreck and ruin, destruction and chaotic strife.
It seemed to me as if I witnessed the rout of a vast army,
surprised, overwhelmed, and overthrown. The roar of
the cannon, the groans of the dying, and the shouts of the
avengers were thundering through my brain, and amid the
frightful confusion of the scene, there came over my spirit
EPISODES 387
a melancholy feeling, which had not entirely vanished at
the end of many days.
In a few hours almost all the timber that had lain heaped
in the rocky gorge, was floating in the great pond of the
millers; and as we walked homeward we talked of the
force of the Waters.
JOURNEY IN NEW BRUNSWICK AND MAINE
THE morning after that which we had spent with Sir
Archibald Campbell and his delightful family, saw us
proceeding along the shores of the St. John River, in
the British Province of New Brunswick. As we passed
the Government House, our hearts bade its generous in-
mates adieu; and as we left Fredericton behind, the
recollection of the many acts of kindness which we had
received from its inhabitants came powerfully on our
minds. Slowly advancing over the surface of the trans-
lucent stream, we still fancied our ears saluted by the
melodies of the unrivalled band of the 43d Regiment.
In short, with the remembrance of kindness experienced,
the feeling of expectations gratified, the hope of adding
to our knowledge, and the possession of health and vigor,
we were luxuriating in happiness.
The “Favorite,” the bark in which we were, contained
not only my whole family, but nearly a score and a half
of individuals of all descriptions, so that the crowded state
of the cabin soon began to prove rather disagreeable. The
boat itself was a mere scow, commanded by a person of
rather uncouth aspect and rude manners. Two sorry nags
he had fastened to the end of a long tow-line, on the
nearer of which rode a negro youth, less than half clad,
with a long switch in one hand, and the joined bridles in
the other, striving with all his might to urge them on at
388 AUDUBON
the rate of something more than two milesan hour. How
fortunate it is for one to possess a little of the knowledge
of a true traveller! Following the advice of a good and
somewhat aged one, we had provided ourselves with a
large basket, which was not altogether empty when we
reached the end of our aquatic excursion. Here and there
the shores of the river were delightful, the space between
them and the undulating hills that bounded the prospect
being highly cultivated, while now and then the abrupt
and rocky banks assumed a most picturesque appearance.
Although it was late in September, the mowers were still
engaged in cutting the grass, and the gardens of the
farmers showed patches of green peas. The apples were
still green, and the vegetation in general reminded us
that we were in a northern latitude.
Gradually and slowly we proceeded, until in the after-
noon we landed to exchange our jaded horses. We sawa
house on an eminence, with groups of people assembled
round it, but there no dinner could be obtained, because,
as the landlord told us, an election was going on. So the
basket was had recourse to, and on the greensward we
refreshed ourselves with its contents. This done, we re-
turned to the scow, and resumed our stations. As usual
in such cases, in every part of the world that I have vis-
ited, our second set of horses was worse than the first.
However, on we went; to tell you how often the tow-line
gave way would not be more amusing to you than it was
annoying tous. Once our commander was in consequence
plunged into the stream, but after some exertion he suc-
ceeded in regaining his gallant bark, when he consoled
himself by giving utterance to a volley of blasphemies,
which it would as ill become me to repeat, as it would be
disagreeable to you to hear. We slept somewhere that
night; it does not suit my views of travelling to tell you
where.
Before day returned to smile on the “Favorite” we
EPISODES 389
proceeded. Some rapids we came to, when every one,
glad to assist her, leaped on shore, and tugged @ /a cor-
delle. Some miles farther we passed a curious cataract,
formed by the waters of the Pokioke. There Sambo led
his steeds up the sides of a high bank, when, lo! the
whole party came tumbling down, like so many hogsheads
of tobacco rolled from a store-house to the banks of the
Ohio. He at the steering oar hoped “the black rascal”
had broken his neck, and congratulated himself in the
same breath for the safety of the horses, which presently
got on their feet. Sambo, however, alert as an Indian
chief, leaped on the naked back of one, and showing his
teeth, laughed at his master’s curses. Shortly after this
we found our boat very snugly secured on the top of a
rock, midway in the stream, just opposite the mouth of
Eel River.
Next day at noon, none injured, but all chop-fallen, we
were landed at Woodstock village, yet in its infancy.
After dining there we procured a cart, and an excellent
driver, and proceeded along an execrable road to Houlton
in Maine, glad enough, after all our mishaps, at finding
ourselves in our own country. But before I bid farewell
to the beautiful river of St. John, I must tell you that
its navigation seldom exceeds eight months each year,
the passage during the rest being performed on the ice,
of which we were told that last season there was an un-
usual quantity, so much, indeed, as to accumulate, by
being jammed at particular spots, to the height of nearly
fifty feet above the ordinary level of the river, and that
when it broke loose in spring, the crash was awful. All
the low grounds along the river were suddenly flooded,
and even the elevated plain on which Fredericton stands
was covered to the depth of four feet. Fortunately, how-
ever, as on the greater streams of the Western and South-
ern Districts, such an occurrence seldom takes place.
Major Clarke, commander of the United States garri-
390 AUDUBON
son, received us with remarkable kindness. The next
day was spent in a long though fruitless ornithological
excursion, for although we were accompanied by officers
and men from the garrison, not a bird did any of our party
procure that was of any use to us. We remained a few
days, however, after which, hiring a cart, two horses, and
a driver, we proceeded in the direction of Bangor.
Houlton is a neat village, consisting of some fifty
houses. The fort is well situated, and commands a fine
view of Mars’ Hill, which is about thirteen miles distant.
A custom-house has been erected here, the place being
on the boundary line of the United States and the British
Provinces. The road which was cut by the soldiers of this
garrison, from Bangor to Houlton, through the forests, is
at this moment a fine turnpike, of great breadth, almost
straight in its whole length, and perhaps the best now in
the Union. It was incomplete, however, for some miles,
so that our travelling over that portion was slow and dis-
agreeable. The rain, which fell in torrents, reduced the
newly raised earth to a complete bed of mud, and at one
time our horses became so completely mired that, had
we not been extricated by two oxen, we must have spent
the night near the spot. Jogging along at a very slow
pace, we were overtaken by a gay wagoner, who had ex-
cellent horses, two of which a little “siller” induced him
to join to ours, and we were taken to a tavern, at the
“Cross Roads,” where we spent the night in comfort.
While supper was preparing, I made inquiries respecting
birds, quadrupeds, and fishes, and was pleased to hear
that many of these animals abounded in the neighborhood.
Deer, Bears, Trout, and Grouse were quite plentiful, as
was the Great Gray Owl.
When we resumed our journey next morning Nature
displayed all her loveliness, and Autumn with her mel-
low tints, her glowing fruits, and her rich fields of corn,
smiled in placid beauty. Many of the fields had not yet
EPISODES 391
been reaped, the fruits of the forests and orchards hung
clustering around us, and as we came in view of the
Penobscot River, our hearts thrilled with joy. Its broad
transparent waters here spread out their unruffled surface,
there danced along the rapids, while canoes filled with
Indians glided swiftly in every direction, raising before
them the timorous waterfowl that had already flocked in
from the north. Mountains, which you well know are
indispensable in a beautiful landscape, reared their ma-
jestic crests in the distance. The Canada Jay leaped
gaily from branch to twig; the Kingfisher, as if vexed at
being suddenly surprised, rattled loudly as it swiftly flew
off; and the Fish Hawk and Eagle spread their broad
wings over the waters. All around was beautiful, and we
gazed on the scene with delight, as seated on a verdant
bank, we refreshed our frames from our replenished stores.
A few rare birds were procured here, and the rest of
the road being level and firm, we trotted on at a good
pace for several hours, the Penobscot keeping company
with us.
Now we came to a deep creek, of which the bridge was
undergoing repairs, and the people saw our vehicle ap-
proach with much surprise. They, however, assisted us
with pleasure, by placing a few logs across, along which
our horses one after the other were carefully led, and
the cart afterwards carried. These good fellows were so
averse to our recompensing them for their labor that after
some altercation we were obliged absolutely to force what
we deemed a suitable reward upon them.
Next day we continued our journey along the Penob-
scot, the country changing its aspect at every mile, and
when we first descried Old Town, that village of saw-
mills looked like an island covered with manufactories.
The people here are noted for their industry and perse-
verance, and any one possessing a mill, and attending to
his saws, and the floating of the timber into his dams, is
392 AUDUBON
sure to obtain a competency in a few years. Speculations
in land covered with pine, lying to the north of this
place, are carried on to a great extent, and to discover a
good tract of such ground many a miller of Old Town
undertakes long journeys. -Reader, with your leave, I
will here introduce one of them.
Good luck brought us into acquaintance with Mr. Gillies,
whom we happened to meet in the course of our travels,
as he was returning from an exploring tour. About the
first of August he formed a party of sixteen persons, each
carrying a knapsack and an axe. Their provisions con-
sisted of two hundred and fifty pounds of pilot bread, one
hundred and fifty of salt pork, four of tea, two large
loaves of sugar, and some salt. They embarked in light
canoes twelve miles north of Bangor, and followed the
Penobscot as far as Wassataquoik River, a branch leading
to the northwest, until they reached the Seboois Lakes,
the principal of which lie in a line, with short portages
between them. Still proceeding northwest they navi-
gated these lakes, and then turning west, carried their
canoes to the great lake Baamchenunsgamook; thence
north to Wallaghasquegantook Lake, then along a small
stream to the upper Umsaskiss Pond, when they reached
the Albagash River which leads into the St. John in
about latitude 47°. Many portions of that country had
not been visited before even by the Indians, who assured
Mr. Gillies of this fact. They continued their travels
down the St. John to the Grand Falls, where they met
with a portage of half a mile, and having reached Medux-
mekeag Creek, a little above Woodstock, the party walked
to Houlton, having travelled twelve hundred miles, and
described almost an oval over the country by the time
they returned to Old Town, on the Penobscot.
While anxiously looking for “lumber-lands,” they as-
cended the eminences around, then climbed the tallest
trees, and by means of a good telescope, inspected the
EPISODES 393
pine woods in the distance. And such excellent judges
are these persons of the value of the timber which they
thus observe, when it is situated at a convenient distance
from water, that they never afterwards forget the differ-
ent spots at all worthy of their attention, They had
observed only a few birds and quadrupeds, the latter
principally Porcupines. The borders of the lakes and
rivers afforded them fruits of various sorts, and abundance
of cranberries, while the uplands yielded plenty of wild
white onions, and a species of black plum. Some of the
party continued their journey in canoes down the St.
John, ascended Eel River, and the lake of the same
name to Matanemheag River, due southwest of the St.
John, and after a few portages fell into the Penobscot.
I had made arrangements to accompany Mr. Gillies on
a journey of this kind, when I judged it would be more
interesting as well as useful to me to visit the distant
country of Labrador.
The road which we followed from Old Town to Bangor
was literally covered with Penobscot Indians returning
from market. On reaching the latter beautiful town, we
found very comfortable lodging in an excellent hotel, and
next day we proceeded by the mail to Boston.
A MOOSE HUNT
In the spring of 1833 the Moose were remarkably abun-
dant in the neighborhood of the Schoodiac Lakes; and,
as the snow was so deep in the woods as to render it
almost impossible for them to escape, many of them were
caught. About the 1st of March, 1833, three of us set
off on a hunt, provided with snow-shoes, guns, hatchets,
and provisions for a fortnight. On the first day we went
fifty miles, in a sledge drawn by one horse, to the nearest
394 AUDUBON
lake, where we stopped for the night, in the hut of an
Indian named Lewis, of the Passamaquoddy tribe, who
had abandoned the wandering life of his race, and turned
his attention to farming and lumbering. Here we saw
the operation of making snow-shoes, which requires more
skill than one might imagine. The men generally make
the bows to suit themselves, and the women weave in
the threads, which are usually made of the skin of the
Caribou Deer.
The next day we went on foot sixty-two miles farther,
when a heavy rain-storm coming on, we were detained a
whole day. The next morning we put on snow-shoes,
and proceeded about thirteen miles, to the head of the
Musquash Lake, where we found a camp, which had been
erected by some lumberers in the winter; and here we
established our headquarters. In the afternoon an Indian
had driven a female Moose-deer, and two young ones of
the preceding year, within a quarter of a mile of our
camp, when he was obliged to shoot the old one. We
undertook to procure the young alive, and after much ex-
ertion succeeded in getting one of them, and shut it up
in the shed made for the oxen; but as the night was fall-
ing, we were compelled to leave the other in the woods.
The dogs having killed two fine Deer that day, we feasted
upon some of their flesh, and upon Moose, which cer-
tainly seemed to us the most savory meat we had ever
eaten, although a keen appetite is very apt to warp one’s
judgment in suchacase. After supper we laid ourselves
down before the huge fire we had built up, and were soon
satisfied that we had at last discovered the most comfort-
able mode of sleeping.
In the morning we started off on the track of a Moose,
which had been driven from its haunt, or yard, by the
Indians the day before; and although the snow was in
general five feet deep, and in some places much deeper,
we travelled three miles before we came to the spot where
EPISODES 395
the Moose had rested for the night. He had not left this
place more than an hour, when we came to it. So we
pushed on faster than before, trusting that ere long we
should overtake him. We had proceeded about a mile
and a half farther, when he took a sudden turn, which
threw us off his track, and when we again found it, we
saw that an Indian had taken it up, and gone in pursuit
of the harassed animal. In a short time we heard the
report of a gun, and immediately running up, we saw the
Moose, standing in a thicket, wounded, when we brought
him down. The animal finding himself too closely pur-
sued, had turned upon the Indian, who fired, and instantly
ran into the bushes to conceal himself. It was three
years old, and consequently not nearly grown, although
already about six feet and a half in height.
It is difficult to conceive how an animal could have
gone at such a rate when the snow was so deep, with a
thick crust at top. In one place, he had followed the
course of a brook, over which the snow had sunk consid-
erably on account of the higher temperature of the water,
and we had an opportunity of seeing evidence of the great
power which the species possess in leaping over objects
that obstruct his way. There were places in which the
snow had drifted to so great a height that you would have
imagined it impossible for any animal to leap over it, and
yet we found that he had done so at a single bound, with-
out leaving the least trace. As I did not measure these
snow-heaps, I cannot positively say how high they were,
but I am well persuaded that some of them were ten feet.
We proceeded to skin and dress the Moose, and buried
the flesh under the snow, where it will keep for weeks.
On opening the animal we were surprised to see the great
size of the heart and lungs, compared with the contents
of the abdomen. The heart was certainly larger than that
of any animal which I had seen. The head bears a great
resemblance to that of a horse, but the “muffle” is more
396 AUDUBON
than twice as large, and when the animal is irritated or
frightened, it projects that part much farther than usual.
It is stated in some descriptions of the Moose that he is
short-winded and tender-footed, but he certainly is ca-
pable of long continued and very great exertion, and his
feet, for anything that I have seen to the contrary, are as
hard as those of any other quadruped. The young Moose
was so exhausted and fretted that it offered no opposi-
tion to us as we led it to the camp; but in the middle of
the night we were awakened by a great noise in the hovel,
and found that as it had in some measure recovered from
its terror and state of exhaustion, it began to think of get-
ting home, and was now much enraged at finding itself so
securely imprisoned. We were unable to do anything
with it, for if we merely approached our hands to the
openings of the hut, it would spring at us with the great-
est fury, roaring and erecting its mane, in a manner that
convinced us of the futility of all attempts to save it
alive. We threw to it the skin of a Deer, which it tore
to pieces ina moment. This individual was a yearling,
and about six feet high. When we went to look for the
other, which we had left in the woods, we found that he
had “taken his back-track” or retraced his steps, and
gone to the “beat,” about a mile and a half distant, and
which it may be interesting to describe.
At the approach of winter, parties of Moose-deer, from
two to fifty in number, begin to lessen their range, and
proceed slowly to the south side of some hill, where they
feed within still narrower limits, as the snow begins to
fall. When it accumulates on the ground, the snow, for
a considerable space, is divided into well trodden, irreg-
ular paths, in which they keep, and browse upon the
bushes at the sides, occasionally striking out a new path,
so that, by the spring, many of those made at the begin-
ning of winter are obliterated. A “yard” for half a
dozen Moose, would probably contain about twenty acres.
EPISODES 397
A good hunter, although still a great way off, will not
only perceive that there is a yard in the vicinity, but can
tell the direction in which it lies, and even be pretty sure
of the distance. It is by the marks on the trees that he
discovers this circumstance; he finds the young maple,
and especially the moose-wood and birch, with the bark
gnawed off to the height of five or six feet on one side,
and the twigs bitten, with the impression of the teeth left
in such a manner, that the position of the animal when
browsing on them, may be ascertained. Following the
course indicated by these marks, the hunter gradually
finds them more distinct and frequent, until at length he
arrives at the yard; but there he finds no Moose, for long
before he reaches the place, their extremely acute smell
and hearing warn them of his approach, when they leave
the yard, generally altogether, the strongest leading in
one track, or in two or three parties. When pursued
they usually separate, except the females, which keep with
their young, and go before to break the track for them;
nor will they leave them under any circumstances. until
brought down by their ruthless pursuers. The males,
especially the old ones, being quite lean at this season,
go off at great speed, and unless the snow is extremely
deep, soon outstrip the hunters. They usually go in the
direction of the wind, making many short turns to keep
the scent, or to avoid some bad passage; and although
they may sink to the bottom at every step, they cannot be
overtaken in less than three or four days. The females,
on the contrary, are remarkably fat, and it is not at all
unfrequent to find in one of them a hundred pounds of
raw tallow. But let us return to the young buck, which
had regained the yard.
We found him still more untractable than the female
we had left in the hovel; he had trodden down the snow
for a small space around him, which he refused to leave,
and would spring with great fury at any one who ap-
398 AUDUBON
proached the spot too near; and as turning on snow-shoes
is not an easy operation, we were content to let him
alone, and try to find one in a better situation for cap-
ture, knowing that if we did eventually secure him, he
would probably, in the struggle injure himself too much
to live. I have good reason to believe that the only
practicable mode of taking them uninjured, except when
they are very young, is, when they are exhausted and
completely defenceless, to bind them securely, and keep
them so till they have become pacified, and convinced of
the uselessness of any attempt at resistance. If allowed
to exert themselves as they please, they almost always
kill themselves, as we found by experience.
On the following day we again set out, and coming
across the tracks of two young bucks, which had been
started by the Indians, we pursued them, and in two or
three miles, overtook them. As it was desirable to ob-
tain them as near the camp as possible, we attempted to
steer them that way. For a while we succeeded very well
in our scheme, but at last one of them, after making many
ineffectual attempts to get another way, turned upon his
pursuer, who, finding himself not very safe, felt obliged
to shoot him. His companion, who was a little more
tractable, we drove on a short way, but as he had con-
trived to take many turnings, he could approach us on
his back-track too swiftly, so that we were compelled to
shoot him also. We “dressed” them, taking with us
the tongues and muffles, which are considered the most
delicate parts.
We had not walked more than a quarter of a mile,
when we perceived some of the indications before men-
tioned, which we followed for half a mile, when we came
across a yard, and going round it, we found where the
Moose had left it, though we afterwards learned that we
had missed a fine buck, which the dogs, however, discov-
ered later. We soon overtook a female with a young one,
EPISODES 399
and were not long in sight of them when they stood at
bay. It is really wonderful how soon they beat down a
hard space in the snow to stand upon, when it is impos-
sible for a dog to touch them, as they stamp so violently
with their fore-feet that it is certain death to approach
them. This Moose had only one calf with her, though
the usual number is two, almost invariably a male and a
female. We shot them with a ball through the brain.
The Moose bears a considerable resemblance to the
horse in his conformation, and in his disposition a still
greater, having much of the sagacity as well as vicious-
ness of that animal. We had an opportunity of observ-
ing the wonderful acuteness of its hearing and smelling.
As we were standing by one, he suddenly erected his ears,
and put himself on the alert, evidently aware of the ap-
proach of some person. About ten minutes after, one of
our party came up, who must have been at the time at
least half a mile off, and the wind was from the Moose
towards him.
This species of Deer feeds on the hemlock, cedar, fir,
or pine, but will not touch the spruce. It also eats the
twigs of the maple, birch, and soft shoots of other trees.
In the autumn they may be enticed by imitating their .
peculiar cry, which is described as truly frightful. The
hunter gets up into a tree, or conceals himself in some
other secure place, and imitates this cry by means of a
piece of birch-bark rolled up to give the proper tone.
Presently he hears the Moose come dashing along, and
when he gets near enough, takes a good aim, and soon
despatches him. It is very unsafe to stand within reach
of the animal, for he would certainly endeavor to demol-
ish you.
A full-grown male Moose is said to measure nine feet
in height, and with his immense branching antlers pre-
sents a truly formidable appearance. Like the Virginia
Deer, and the male Caribou, they shed their horns every
400 AUDUBON
year about the beginning of December. The first year
their horns are not dropped in spring. When irritated
the Moose makes a great grinding with his teeth, erects
his mane, lays back his ears, and stamps with violence.
When disturbed he makes a hideous whining noise, much
in the manner of the Camel.
In that wild and secluded part of the country, seldom
visited but by the Indians, the common Deer were with-
out number, and it was with great difficulty that we kept
the dogs with us, as they were continually meeting with
“beats.” In its habits that species greatly resembles the
Moose. The Caribou has a very broad, flat foot, and can
spread it on the snow to the fetlock, so as to be able to
run on acrust scarcely hard enough to bear a dog. When
the snow is soft, they keep in immense droves around the
margins of the large lakes to which they betake them-
selves when pursued, the crust being much harder there
than elsewhere. When it becomes more firm, they strike
into the woods. As they possess such facility of running
on snow, they do not require to make any yards, and con-
sequently have no fixed place in the winter. The speed
of this animal is not well known, but I am inclined to
believe it much greater than that of the fleetest horse.
In our camp we saw great numbers of Crossbills, Gros-
beaks, and various other small birds. Of the first of
these were two species which were very tame, and alighted
on our hut with the greatest familiarity. We caught five
or six at once, under a snow-shoe. The Pine-Martin and
Wild Cat were also very abundant.!
1 The “Moose Hunt” was communicated to me by my young friend,
Thomas Lincoln, of Dennysville in Maine.
EPISODES 401
LABRADOR
WHEN I look back upon the many pleasant hours that I
spent with the young gentlemen who composed my party,
during our excursions along the coast of sterile and
stormy Labrador, I think that a brief account of our
employments may prove not altogether uninteresting to
my readers.
We had purchased our stores at Boston, with the aid of
my generous friend, Dr. Parkman of that city; but un-
fortunately many things necessary on an expedition like
ours were omitted. At Eastport in Maine we therefore
laid in these requisites. No traveller, let me say, ought
to neglect anything that is calculated to insure the suc-
cess of his undertaking, or to contribute to his personal
comfort, when about to set out on a long and perhaps
“hazardous voyage. Very few opportunities of replenish-
ing stores of provisions, clothing, or ammunition, occur
in such a country as Labrador; and yet, we all placed
too much confidence in the zeal and foresight of our pur-
veyors at Eastport. We had abundance of ammunition,
excellent bread, meat, and potatoes; but the butter was
quite rancid, the oil only fit to grease our guns, the vine-
gar too liberally diluted with cider, the mustard and pep-
per deficient in due pungency. All this, however, was
not discovered until it was too late to be remedied. Sev-
eral of the young men were not clothed as hunters should
be, and some of the guns were not so good as we could
have wished. We were, however, fortunate with respect
to our vessel, which was a notable sailer, did not leak,
had a good crew, and was directed by a capital seaman.
The hold of the schooner was floored, and an entrance
made to it from the cabin, so that in it we had a very
good parlor, dining-room, drawing-room, library, etc., all
those apartments, however, being comprised in one. An
VOL, I1.— 26
402 AUDUBON
extravagantly elongated deal table ranged along the cen-
tre; one of the party had slung his hammock at one end,
and in its vicinity slept the cook and a lad who acted as
armorer. The cabin was small; but being fitted in the
usual manner with side berths, was used for a dormitory.
It contained a small table and a stove, the latter of dimin-
utive size, but smoky enough to discomfit a host. We
had adopted in a great measure the clothing worn by the
American fishermen on that coast, namely, thick blue
cloth trousers, a comfortable waistcoat, and a pea-jacket
of blanket. Our boots were large, round-toed, strong,
and well studded with large nails to prevent sliding on
the rocks. Worsted comforters, thick mittens, and round
broad-brimmed hats, completed our dress, which was more
picturesque than fashionable. As soon as we had an
opportunity, the boots were exchanged for Esquimaux
mounted moccasins of Seal-skin, impermeable to water,
light, easy, and fastening at top about the middle of the
thigh to straps, which when buckled over the hips secured
them well. To complete our equipment, we had several
good boats, one of which was extremely light and adapted
for shallow water.
No sooner had we reached the coast and got into har-
bor, than we agreed to follow certain regulations in-
tended for the general benefit. Every morning the cook
was called before three o’clock. At half-past three,
breakfast was on the table, and everybody equipped. The
guns, ammunition, botanical boxes, and baskets for eggs
or minerals were all in readiness. Our breakfast con-
sisted of coffee, bread, and various other materials. At
four, all except the cook, and one seaman, went off in
different directions, not forgetting to carry with them a
store of cooked provisions. Some betook themselves to
the islands, others to the deep bays; the latter on land-
ing wandered over the country till noon, when laying
themselves down on the rich moss, or sitting on the gran-
EPISODES 403
ite rock, they would rest for an hour, eat their dinner,
and talk of their successes or disappointments. I often
regret that I did not take sketches of the curious groups
formed by my young friends on such occasions, and when,
after returning at night, all were engaged in measuring,
weighing, comparing, and dissecting the birds we had
procured; operations which were carried on with the aid
of a number of candles thrust into the necks of bottles.
Here one examined the flowers and leaves of a plant,
there another explored the recesses of a Diver’s gullet,
while a third skinned a Gull ora Grouse. Nor was one
journal forgotten. Arrangements were made for the mor-
row, and at twelve we left matters to the management of
the cook, and retired to our roosts.
If the wind blew hard, all went on shore, and, except-
ing on a few remarkably rainy days, we continued our
pursuits, much in the same manner during our stay in the
country. The physical powers of the young men were
considered in making our arrangements. Shattuck and
Ingalls went together; the captain and Coolidge were
fond of each other, the latter having also been an officer;
Lincoln and my son being the strongest and most deter-
mined hunters, generally marched by themselves; and I
went with one or other of the parties, according to cir-
cumstances, although it was by no means my custom to
do so regularly, as I had abundance of work on hand in
the vessel. :
The return of my young companions and the sailors was
always looked for with anxiety. On getting on board,
they opened their budgets, and laid their contents on the
deck, amid much merriment, those who had procured most
specimens being laughed at by those who had obtained
the rarest, and the former joking the latter in return. A
substantial meal always awaited them, and fortunate we
were in having a capital cook, although he was a little too
fond of the bottle.
404 AUDUBON
Our “ Fourth of July” was kept sacred, and every Satur-
day night the toast of “wives and sweethearts” was the
first given, “parents and friends” the last. Never was
there a more merry set. Some with the violin and flute
accompanied the voices of the rest, and few moments
were spent in idleness. Before a month had elapsed, the
spoils of many a fine bird hung around the hold; shrubs
and flowers were in the press, and I had several drawings
finished, some of which you have seen, and of which I
hope you will ere long see the remainder. Large jars
were filling apace with the bodies of rare birds, fishes,
quadrupeds and reptiles, as well as molluscous animals.
We had several pets too, Gulls, Cormorants, Guillemots,
Puffins, Hawks, and a Raven. In some of the harbors,
curious fishes were hooked in our sight, so clear was the
water.
We found that camping out at night was extremely un-
comfortable, on account of the annoyance caused by flies
and mosquitoes, which attacked the hunters in swarms at
all times, but more especially when they lay down, unless
they enveloped themselves in thick smoke, which is not
much more pleasant. Once when camping the weather
became very bad, and the party was twenty miles distant
from Whapatigan as night threw her mantle over the
earth. The rain fell in torrents, the northeast wind blew
furiously, and the air was extremely cold. The oars of
the boats were, fixed so as to support some blankets, and
a small fire was with difficulty kindled, on the embers of
which a scanty meal was cooked. How different froma
camp on the shores of the Mississippi, where wood is
abundant, and the air generally not lacking heat, where
mosquitoes, although plentiful enough, are not accom-
panied by Caribou flies, and where the barkings of a joyful
Squirrel, or the notes of the Barred Owl, that grave buf-
foon of our western woods, never fail to gladden the
camper as he cuts to the right and left such branches and
EPISODES 405
canes as most easily supply materials for forming a lodg-
ing for the night. On the coast of Labrador there are no
such things; granite and green moss are spread around,
silence like that of the grave envelops all, and when
night has closed the dreary scene from your sight, the
Wolves, attracted by the scent of the remains of your
scanty repast, gather around you. Cowards as they are
they dare not venture on a charge; but their howlings
effectually banish sleep. You must almost roast your
feet to keep them warm, while your head and shoulders
are chilled by the blast. When morning comes, she
smiles not on you with rosy cheeks, but appears muffled
in a gray mantle of cold mist, which shows you that there
is no prospect of a fine day. The object of the expedi-
tion, which was to procure some Owls that had been
observed there by day, was entirely frustrated. At early
dawn the party rose stiffened and dispirited, and glad
were they to betake themselves to their boats, and return
to their floating home.
Before we left Labrador, several of my young friends
began to feel the want of suitable clothing. The sailor’s
ever-tailoring system, was, believe me, fairly put to the
test. Patches of various colors ornamented knees and
elbows; our boots were worn out; our greasy garments
and battered hats were in harmony with our tanned and
weather-beaten faces; and, had you met with us, you
might have taken us for a squad of wretched vagrants;
but we were joyous in the expectation of a speedy re-
turn, and exulted at the thoughts of our success.
As the chill blast that precedes the winter’s tempest
thickened the fogs on the hills and ruffled the dark waters,
each successive day saw us more anxious to leave the
dreary wilderness of grim rocks and desolate moss-clad
valleys. Unfavorable winds prevented us for a while
from spreading our white sails; but at last one fair morn-
ing smiled on the wintry world, the “Ripley” was towed
406 AUDUBON
from the harbor, her tackle trimmed, and as we bounded
over the billows, we turned our eyes towards the wilds of
Labrador, and heartily bade them farewell forever!
THE EGGERS OF LABRADOR
Tue distinctive appellation of “eggers”’ is given to cer-
tain persons who follow, principally or exclusively, the
avocation of procuring the eggs of wild birds, with the
view of disposing of them at some distant port. Their
great object is to plunder every nest, wherever they can
find it, no matter where, and at whatever risk. They
are the pest of the feathered tribes, and their brutal pro-
pensity to destroy the poor creatures after they have
robbed them, is abundantly gratified whenever an oppor-
tunity presents itself.
Much had been said to me respecting these destructive
pirates before I visited the coast of Labrador, but I could
not entirely credit all their cruelties until I had actually
witnessed their proceedings, which were such as to in-
spire no small degree of horror. But you shall judge for
yourself.
See yon shallop, shyly sailing along; she sneaks like
a thief wishing, as it were, to shun the very light of
heaven. Under the lee of every rocky isle some one at
the tiller steers her course. Were his trade an honest
one, he would not think of hiding his back behind the
terrific rocks that seem to have been placed there as a
resort to the myriads of birds that annually visit this
desolate region of the earth, for the purpose of rearing
their young at a distance from all disturbers of their
peace. How unlike the open, the bold, the honest mar-
iner, whose face needs no mask, who scorns to skulk
under any circumstances. The vessel herself is a shabby
AUDUBON, 1850.
FROM A DAGUERREOTYPE, UWNED BY MRS. ELIZABETH BERTHOUD GRIMSHAW.
EPISODES 407
thing; her sails are patched with stolen pieces of better
canvas, the owners of which have probably been stranded
on some inhospitable coast, and have been plundered,
perhaps murdered, by the wretches before us. Look at
her again! Her sides are neither painted, nor even
pitched; no, they are daubed over, plastered and patched
with strips of Seal-skins laid along the seams. Her deck
has never been washed or sanded; her hold — for no cabin
has she —though at present empty, sends forth an odor
pestilential as that of a charnel house. The crew, eight
in number, lie sleeping at the foot of their tottering
mast, regardless of the repairs needed in every part of
her rigging. But see! she scuds along, and as I suspect
her crew to be bent on the commission of some evil deed,
let us follow her to the first harbor.
There rides the filthy thing! The afternoon is half
over. Her crew have thrown their boat overboard, they
enter and seat themselves, each with a rusty gun. One
of them sculls the skiff towards an island for a century
past the breeding-place of myriads of Guillemots, which
are now to be laid under contribution. At the approach
of the vile thieves, clouds of birds rise from the rock and
fill the air around, wheeling and screaming over their
enemies. Yet thousands remain in an erect posture, each
covering its single egg, the hope of both parents. The
reports of several muskets loaded with heavy shot are
now heard, while several dead and wounded birds fall
heavily on the rock, or into the water. Instantly all the
sitting birds rise and fly off affrighted to their compan-
ions above, and hover in dismay over their assassins, who
walk forward exultingly, and with their shouts mingling
oaths and execrations. Look at them! See how they
crush the chick within its shell, how they trample on
every egg in their way with their huge and clumsy boots.
Onward they go, and when they leave the isle, not an
egg that they can find is left entire. The dead birds they
408 AUDUBON
collect and carry to their boat. Now they have regained
their filthy shallop; they strip the birds by a single jerk,
of their feathery apparel while the flesh is yet warm, and
throw them on some coals, where in a short time they are
broiled. The rum is produced when the Guillemots are
fit for eating, and after stuffing themselves with this oily
fare, and enjoying the pleasure of beastly intoxication,
over they tumble on the deck of their crazed craft, where
they pass the short hours of night in turbid slumber.
The sun now rises above the snow-clad summit of the
eastern mount. “Sweet is the breath of morn,” even in
this desolate land. The gay Bunting erects his white
crest, and gives utterance to the joy he feels in the pres-
ence of his brooding mate. The Willow Grouse on the
rock crows his challenge aloud. Each floweret chilled by
the night air expands its pure petals. The gentle breeze
shakes from the blades of grass the heavy dew-drops. On
the Guillemot isle the birds have again settled, and now
renew their loves. Startled by the light of day, one of
the eggers springs to his feet and rouses his companions,
who stare around them for a while, endeavoring to collect
their senses. Mark them, as with clumsy fingers they
clear their drowsy eyes! Slowly they rise on their feet.
See how the filthy lubbers stretch out their arms, and
yawn; you shrink back, for verily “that throat might
frighten a shark.”
But the master soon recollecting that so many eggs are
worth a dollar or a crown, casts his eye towards the rock,
marks the day in his memory and gives orders to depart.
The light breeze enables them to reach another harbor a
few miles distant, one which, like the last, lies concealed
from the ocean by some other rocky isle. Arrived there,
they re-act the scene of yesterday, crushing every egg
they can find. Fora week each night is passed in drunk-
enness and brawls, until, having reached the last breed-
ing-place on the coast, they return, touch at every isle in
EPISODES 409
succession, shoot as many birds as they need, collect the
fresh eggs, and lay in acargo. At every step each ruf-
fian picks up an egg so beautiful that any man with a feel-
ing heart would pause to consider the motive which could
induce him to carry it off. But nothing of this sort oc-
curs to the egger, who gathers and gathers until he has
swept the rock bare. The dollars alone chink in his sor-
did mind, and he assiduously plies the trade which no
man would ply who had the talents and industry to pro-
cure subsistence by honorable means.
With a bark nearly half filled with fresh eggs they pro-
ceed to the principal rock, that on which they first landed.
But what is their surprise when they find others there
helping themselves as industriously as they can! In
boiling rage they charge their guns and ply their oars.
Landing on the rock they run up to the eggers, who, like
themselves, are desperadoes. The first question is a dis-
charge of musketry, the answer another. Now, man to
man, they fight like tigers. One is carried to his boat
with a fractured skull, another limps with a shot in his
leg, and a third feels how many of his teeth have been
driven through the hole in his cheek. At last, however,
the quarrel is settled; the booty is to be equally divided;
and now see them all drinking together. Oaths and
curses and filthy jokes are all that you hear; but see,
stuffed with food, and reeling with drink, down they drop
one by one; groans and execrations from the wounded
mingle with the snoring of the heavy sleepers. There
let the brutes lie.
Again it is dawn, but no one stirs. The sun is high;
one by one they open their heavy eyes, stretch their
limbs, yawn, and raise themselves from the deck. But
see, here comes a goodly company. A hundred honest
fishermen, who for months past have fed on salt meat,
have felt a desire to procure some eggs. Gallantly their
boats advance, impelled by the regular pull of their long
410 AUDUBON
oars. Each buoyant bark displays the flag of its nation.
No weapons do they bring, nor anything that can be used
as such save their oars and their fists. Cleanly clad in
Sunday attire, they arrive at the desired spot, and at once
prepare to ascend the rock. The eggers, now number-
ing a dozen, all armed with guns and bludgeons, bid defi-
ance to the fishermen. A few angry words pass between
the parties. One of the eggers, still under the influence
of drink, pulls his trigger, and an unfortunate sailor is
seen to reel in agony. Three loud cheers fill the air.
All at once rush on the malefactors; a horrid fight en-
sues, the result of which is that every egger is left on
the rock beaten and bruised. Too frequently the fisher-
men man their boats, row to the shallops, and break every
egg in the hold.
The eggers of Labrador not only rob the birds in this
cruel manner, but also the fishermen, whenever they can
find an opportunity; and the quarrels they excite are
numberless. While we were on the coast, none of our
party ever ventured on any of the islands which these
wretches call their own, without being well provided with
means of defence. On one occasion, when I was present,
we found two eggers at their work of destruction. I
spoke to them respecting my visit, and offered them pre-
miums for rare birds and some of their eggs; but although
they made fair promises, not one of the gang ever came
near the “ Ripley.”
These people gather all the eider-down they can find;
yet so inconsiderate are they, that they kill every bird
which comes in their way. The eggs of Gulls, Guillemots,
and Ducks are searched for with care; and the Puffins and
some other birds they massacre in vast numbers for the
sake of their feathers. So constant and persevering are
their depredations that these species, which, according
to the accounts of the few settlers I saw in the country,
were exceedingly abundant twenty years ago, have aban-
EPISODES 4II
doned their ancient breeding places, and removed much
farther north in search of peaceful security. Scarcely, in
fact, could I procure a young Guillemot before the eggers
left the coast, nor was it until late in July that I suc-
ceeded, after the birds had laid three or four eggs each,
instead of one, and when, nature having been exhausted,
and the season nearly spent, thousands of these birds left
the country without having accomplished the purpose for
which they had visited it. This war of extermination
cannot last many years more. The eggers themselves
will be the first to repent the entire disappearance of the
myriads of birds that made the coast of Labrador their
summer residence, and unless they follow the persecuted
tribes to the northward, they must renounce their trade.
THE SQUATTERS OF LABRADOR
Go where you will, if a shilling can there be procured,
you may expect to meet with individuals in search of it.
In the course of last summer, I met with several per-
sons, as well as families, whom I could not compare to
anything else than what in America we understand by the
appellation of “squatters.” The methods they employed
to accumulate property form the subject of the observa-
tions which I now lay before you.
Our schooner lay at anchor in a beautiful basin on the
coast of Labrador, surrounded by uncouth granitic rocks,
partially covered with stunted vegetation. While search-
ing for birds and other objects I chanced one morning to
direct my eye towards the pinnacle of a small island,
separated from the mainland by a very narrow channel,
and presently commenced inspecting it with my telescope.
There I saw a man on his knees with clasped hands, and
face inclined heavenwards. Before him was a small mon-
412 AUDUBON
ument of unhewn stones, supporting a wooden cross. In
a word, reader, the person whom I thus unexpectedly dis-
covered was engaged in prayer. Such an incident in that
desolate land was affecting, for there one seldom finds
traces of human beings; and the aid of the Almighty,
although necessary everywhere, seems there peculiarly
required to enable them to procure the means of subsis-
tence. My curiosity having been raised, I betook my-
self to my boat, landed on the rock, and scrambled to the
place, where I found the man still on his knees. When
his devotions were concluded, he bowed to me, and ad-
dressed me in very indifferent French. I asked him why
he had chosen so dreary a spot for his prayers. “ Be-
cause,” answered he, “the sea lies before me, and from
it I receive my spring and summer sustenance. When
winter approaches, I pray fronting the mountains on the
main, as at that period the Caribous come towards the
shore, and I kill them, feed on their flesh, and form my
bedding of their skins.” I thought the answer reason-
able, and as I longed to know more of him, followed him
to his hut. It was low, and very small, formed of stones
plastered with mud to a considerable thickness. The
roof was composed of a sort of thatching made of weeds
and moss. A large Dutch stove filled nearly one half the
place; a small port-hole then stuffed with old rags, served
at times instead of a window; the bed was a pile of Deer-
skins; a bowl, a jug, and an iron pot were placed on a
rude shelf; three old and rusty muskets, their locks fas-
tened by thongs, stood in a corner; and his buckshot,
powder, and flints, were tied up in bags of skin. Eight
Esquimaux dogs yelled and leaped about us. The strong
smell that emanated from them, together with the smoke
and filth of the apartment, rendered my stay in it ex-
tremely disagreeable.
Being a native of France, the good man showed much
politeness, and invited me to take some refreshment,
EPISODES 413
when, without waiting for my assent, he took up his
bowl, and went off I knew not whither. No sooner had
he and his strange dogs disappeared than I went out also,
to breathe the pure air, and gaze on the wild and majes-
tic scenery around. I was struck with the extraordinary
luxuriance of the plants and grasses that had sprung up
on the scanty soil in the little valley which the squatter
had chosen for his home. Their stalks and broad blades
reached my waist. June had come, and the flies, mos-
quitoes, and other insects filled the air, and were as
troublesome to me as if I had been in a Florida swamp.
The squatter returned, but he was chop-fallen; nay,
I thought his visage had assumed a cadaverous hue.
Tears ran down his cheeks, and he told me that his bar-
rel of rum had been stolen by the “eggers” or some fish-
ermen. He said that he had been in the habit of hiding
it in the bushes, to prevent its being carried away by
those merciless thieves, who must have watched him in
some of his frequent walks to the spot. “Now,” said he,
“T can expect none till next spring, and God knows what
will become of me in the winter.”
Pierre Jean Baptiste Michaux had resided in that part
of the world for upwards of ten years. He had run away
from the fishing-smack that had brought him from his fair
native land, and expected to become rich some day by the
sale of the furs, Seal-skins, eider-down, and other articles,
which he collected yearly, and sold to the traders who
regularly visited his dreary abode. He was of moderate
stature, firmly framed, and as active asa Wild Cat. He
told me that excepting the loss of his rum, he had never
experienced any other cause of sorrow, and that he felt as
“happy as a lord.”
Before parting with this fortunate mortal, I inquired
how his dogs managed to find sufficient food. ‘ Why, sir,
during spring and summer they ramble along the shores,
where they meet with abundance of dead fish, and in win-
414 AUDUBON
ter they eat the flesh of the Seals which I kill late in
autumn, when these animals return from the north. As
to myself, everything eatable is good, and when hard
pushed, I relish the fare of my dogs, I assure you, as
much as they do themselves.”
Proceeding along the rugged indentations of the bay
with my companions, I reached the settlement of another
person, who, like the first, had come to Labrador with
the view of making his fortune. We found him after
many difficulties; but as our boats turned a long point
jutting out into the bay, we were pleased to see several
small schooners at anchor, and one lying near a sort of
wharf. Several neat-looking houses enlivened the view,
and on landing, we were kindly greeted with a polite wel-
come from a man who proved to be the owner of the
establishment. For the rude simplicity of him of the
rum-cask, we found here the manners and dress of a man
of the world. A handsome fur cap covered his dark brow,
his clothes were similar to our own, and his demeanor
was that of a gentleman. On my giving my name to
him, he shook me heartily by the hand, and on introduc-
ing each of my companions to him, he extended the like
courtesy to them also. Then, to my astonishment, he
addressed me as follows: “My dear sir, I have been
expecting you these three weeks, having read iz the papers
your intention to visit Labrador; and some fishermen told
me of your arrival at Little Natasquam. Gentlemen,
walk in.”
Having followed him to his neat and comfortable man-
sion, he introduced us to his wife and children. Of the
latter there were six, all robust and rosy. The lady,
although a native of the country, was of French extrac-
tion, handsome, and sufficiently accomplished to make
an excellent companion to a gentleman. A smart girl
brought us a luncheon, consisting of bread, cheese, and
good port wine, to which, having rowed fourteen or fif-
EPISODES 415
teen miles that morning, we helped ourselves in a manner
that seemed satisfactory to all parties. Our host gave us
newspapers from different parts of the world, and showed
us his small, but choice collection of books. He inquired
after the health of the amiable Captain Bayfield of the
Royal Navy, and the officers under him, and hoped they
would give him a call.
Having refreshed ourselves, we walked out with him,
when he pointed to a very small garden, where a few vege-
tables sprouted out, anxious to see the sun. Gazing on
the desolate country around, I asked him how Ze had thus
secluded himself from the world. For it he had no relish,
and although he had received a liberal education, and had
mixed with society, he never intended to return to it.
“The country around,” said he, “is all my own, much
farther than you can see. No fees, no lawyers, no taxes
are herve. Ido pretty much as I choose. My means are
ample through my own industry. These vessels come
here for Seal-skins, Seal-oil, and salmon, and give me in
return all the necessaries, and indeed comforts, of the life
I love to follow; and what else could the world afford
me?” I spoke of the education of his children. “My
wife and I teach them all that is wsefu/ for them to know,
and is not that enough? My girls will marry their coun-
trymen, my sons the daughters of my neighbors, and I
hope all of them will live and die in the country!” I
said no more, but by way of compensation for the trouble
I had given him, purchased from his eldest child a beau-
tiful Fox’s skin.
Few birds, he said, came round him in summer, but in
winter thousands of Ptarmigans were killed, as well as
great numbers of Gulls. He had a great dislike to all
fishermen and eggers, and I really believe was always
glad to see the departure even of the hardy navigators
who annually visited him for the sake of his salmon, Seal-
skins, and oil. He had more than forty Esquimaux
416 AUDUBON
dogs; and as I was caressing one of them he said, “ Tell
my brother-in-law at Bras d’Or, that we are all well here,
and that, after visiting my wife’s father, I will give him
a call.”
Now, reader, his wife’s father resided at the distance
of seventy miles down the coast, and, like himself, was a
recluse. He of Bras d’Or, was at double that distance;
but, when the snows of winter have thickly covered the
country, the whole family, in sledges drawn by dogs,
travel with ease, and pay their visits, or leave their cards.
This good gentleman had already resided there more than
twenty years. Should he ever read this article, I desire
him to believe that I shall always be grateful to him and
his wife for their hospitable welcome.
When our schooner, the “Ripley,” arrived at Bras
d’Or, I paid a visit to Mr. , the brother-in-law, who
lived in a house imported from Quebec, which fronted the
strait of Belle Isle, and overlooked a small island, over
which the eye reached the coast of Newfoundland, when-
ever it was the wind’s pleasure to drive away the fogs
that usually lay over both coasts. The gentleman and
his wife, we were told, were both out on a walk, but
would return in a very short time, which they in fact did,
when we followed them into the house, which was yet
unfinished. The usual immense Dutch stove formed a
principal feature of the interior. The lady had once
visited the metropolis of Canada, and seemed desirous of
acting the part of a blue-stocking. Understanding that I
knew something of the fine arts, she pointed to several of
the vile prints hung on the bare walls, which she said
were elegant Italian pictures, and continued her encomi-
ums upon them, assuring me that she had purchased them
from an Italian, who had come there with a trunk full of
them. She had paid a shilling sterling for each, frame
included. I could give no answer to the good lady on
this subject, but I felt glad to find that she possessed a
EPISODES 417
feeling heart, for one of her children had caught a Siskin,
and was tormenting the poor bird, when she rose from her
seat, took the little fluttering thing from the boy, kissed
it, and gently launched it into the air. This made me
quite forget the tattle about the fine arts.
Some excellent milk was poured out for us in clean
glasses. It was a pleasing sight, for not a cow had we
yet seen in the country. The lady turned the conversa-
tion on music, and asked me if I played on any instru-
ment. I answered that I did, but very indifferently.
Her forte, she said, was music, of which she was indeed
immoderately fond. Her instrument had been sent to
Europe to be repaired, but would return that season,
when the whole of her children would again perform
many beautiful airs;-for in fact anybody could use it with
ease, as when she or the children felt fatigued, the ser-
vant played on it for them. Rather surprised at the ex-
traordinary powers of this family of musicians, I asked
what sort of an instrument it was, when she described it
as follows: “Gentlemen, my instrument is large, longer
than broad, and stands on four legs, like a table. At
one end is a crooked handle, by turning which round,
either fast or slow, I do assure you we make most excel-
lent music.” The lips of my young friends and compan-
ions instantly curled, but a glance from me as instantly
recomposed their features. Telling the fair one that it
must be a hand-organ she used, she laughingly said, “ Ah,
that is it; it is a hand-organ, but I had forgot the name,
and for the life of me could not recollect it.”
The husband had gone out to work, and was in the
harbor calking an old schooner. He dined with me on
board the “Ripley,” and proved to be also an excellent
fellow. Like his brother-in-law, he had seen much of
the world, having sailed nearly round it; and, although
no scholar like him, too, he was disgusted with it. He
held his land on the same footing as his neighbors, caught
VOL, 11 — 27
418 AUDUBON
Seals without number, lived comfortably and happily,
visited his father-in-law and the scholar, by the aid of
his dogs, of which he kept a great pack, bartered or sold
his commodities, as his relations did, and cared about
nothing else in the world. Whenever the weather was
fair, he walked with his dame over the moss-covered rocks
of the neighborhood; and during winter killed Ptarmi-
gans and Caribous, while his eldest son attended to the
traps, and skinned the animals caught in them. He had
the only horse that was to be found in that part of the
country, as well as several cows; but, above all, he was
kind to every one, and every one spoke well of him. The
only disagreeable thing about his plantation or settle-
ment, was a heap of fifteen hundred carcasses of skinned
Seals, which, at the time when we visited the place, in
the month of August, notwithstanding the coolness of the
atmosphere, sent forth a stench that, according to the
ideas of some naturalists, might have sufficed to attract
all the Vultures in the United States.
During our stay at Bras d’Or, the kind-hearted and
good Mrs. daily sent us fresh milk and butter, for
which we were denied the pleasure of making any return.
COD FISHING
ALTHOUGH I had seen, as I thought, abundance of fish
along the coasts of the Floridas, the numbers which I
found in Labrador quite astonished me. Should your sur-
prise while reading the following statements be as great
as mine was while observing the facts related, you will
conclude, as I have often done, that Nature’s means of
providing small animals for the use of larger ones, and
vice versa, are as ample as is the grandeur of that world
which she has so curiously constructed, :
EPISODES 419
The coast of Labrador is visited by European as well as
American fishermen, all of whom are, I believe, entitled
to claim portions of fishing-ground assigned to each na-
tion by mutual understanding. For the present, however,
I shall confine my observations to those of our own coun-
try, who, after all, are probably the most numerous. The
citizens of Boston, and many others of our eastern sea-
ports, are those who chiefly engage in this department of
our commerce. Eastport in Maine sends out every year
a goodly fleet of schooners and “ pickaxes” to Labrador,
to procure Cod, Mackerel, Halibut, and sometimes Her-
ring, the latter being caught in the intermediate space.
The vessels from that port, and others in Maine and
Massachusetts, sail as soon as the warmth of spring has
freed the gulf of ice, that is, from the beginning of May
to that of June.
A vessel of one hundred tons or so is provided with a
crew of twelve men, who are equally expert as sailors and
fishers, and for every couple of these hardy tars, a Hamp-
ton boat is provided, which is lashed on the deck, or hung
in stays. Their provision is simple, but of good quality,
and it is very seldom that any spirits are allowed, beef,
pork and biscuit with water being all they take with them.
The men are supplied with warm clothing, waterproof
oiled jackets and trousers, large boots, broad-brimmed
hats with a round crown, and stout mittens, with a few
shirts. The owner or captain furnishes them with lines,
hooks, and nets, and also provides the bait best adapted
to insure success. The hold of the vessel is filled with
casks, of various dimensions, some containing salt, and
others for the oil that may be procured.
The bait generally used at the beginning of the season
consists of mussels salted for the purpose; but as soon
as the capelings reach the coast they are substituted to
Save expense, and in many instances the flesh of Gannets
and other sea-fowl is employed. The wages of fishermen
420 AUDUBON
vary from sixteen to thirty dollars per month, according
to the qualifications of the individual.
The labor of these men is excessively hard, for, unless
on Sunday, their allowance of rest in the twenty-four hours
seldom exceeds three. The cook is the only person who
fares better in this respect, but he must also assist in cur-
ing the fish. He has breakfast, consisting of coffee, bread,
and meat, ready for the captain and the whole crew, by
three o’clock every morning, excepting Sunday. Each
person carries with him his dinner ready cooked, which is
commonly eaten on the fishing-grounds.
Thus, at three in the morning, the crew are prepared
for their day’s labor, and ready to betake themselves to
their boats, each of which has two oars and lugsails.
They all depart at once, and either by rowing or sailing,
reach the banks to which the fishes are known to resort.
The little squadron drop their anchors at short distances
from each other, in a depth of from ten to twenty feet,
and the business is immediately commenced. Each man
has two lines, and each stands in one end of the boat, the
middle of which is boarded off, to hold the fish. The
baited lines have been dropped into the water, one on
each side of the boat; their leads have reached the bottom,
a fish has taken the hook, and after giving the line a slight
jerk, the fisherman hauls up his prize with a continued
pull, throws the fish athwart a small round bar of iron
placed near his back, which forces open the mouth, while
the weight of the body, however small the fish may be,
tears out the hook. The bait is still good, and over the
side the line again goes, to catch another fish, while that
on the left is now drawn up, and the same course pursued.
In this manner, a fisher busily plying at each end, the
operation is continued until the boat is so laden that her
gunwale is brought within a few inches of the surface,
when they return to the vessel in harbor, seldom distant
more than eight miles from the banks.
EPISODES 421
During the greater part of the day the fishermen have
kept up a constant conversation, of which the topics are
the pleasure of finding a good supply of cod, their domes-
tic affairs, the political prospects of the nation, and other
matters similarly connected. Now the repartee of one
elicits a laugh from the other; this passes from man to
man, and the whole flotilla enjoy the joke. The men of
one boat strive to outdo those of the others in hauling up
the greatest quantity of fish in a given time, and this forms
another source of merriment. The boats are generally
filled about the same time, and all return together.
Arrived at the vessel, each man employs a pole armed
with a bent iron, resembling the prong of a hay-fork, with
which he pierces the fish, and throws it with a jerk on
deck, counting the number thus discharged with a loud
voice. Each cargo is thus safely deposited, and the
boats instantly return to the fishing-ground, when, after
anchoring, the men eat their dinner, and begin anew.
There, good reader, with your leave, I will let them pur-
sue their avocations for a while, as I am anxious that you
should witness what is doing on board the vessel.
The captain, four men, and the cook have, in the
course of the morning, erected long tables fore and aft
the main hatchway ; they have taken to the shore most of
the salt barrels, and have placed in a row their large
empty casks, to receive the livers. The hold of the vessel
is quite clear, except a corner where is a large heap of salt.
And now the men, having dined precisely at twelve, are
ready with their large knives. One begins with breaking
off the head of the fish, aslight pull of the hand and a gash
with the knife, effecting this in a moment. He slits up its
belly, with one hand pushes it aside to his neighbor, then
throws overboard the head, and begins to doctor another.
The next man tears out the entrails, separates the liver,
which he throws into a cask, and casts the rest overboard.
A third person dexterously passes his knife beneath the
422 AUDUBON
vertebrz of the fish, separates them from the flesh, heaves
the latter through the hatchway, and the former into the
water.
Now, if you will peep into the hold, you will see the
last stage of the process, the salting and packing. Six
experienced men generally manage to head, clean, bone,
salt, and pack all the fish caught in the morning by the
return of the boats with fresh cargoes, when all hands set
to work, and clear the deck of the fish. Thus their labors
continue till midnight, when they wash their faces and
hands, put on clean clothes, hang their fishing apparel on
the shrouds, and, betaking themselves to the forecastle,
are soon in a sound sleep.
At three the next morning, comes the captain from his
berth, rubbing his eyes, and in a loud voice calling, “ All
hands, ho!” Stiffened in limb, and but half awake, the
crew quickly appear on the deck. Their fingers and hands
are so cramped and swollen by pulling the lines that it
is difficult for them to straighten even a thumb; but this
matters little at present, for the cook, who had a good nap
yesterday, has risen an hour before them, and prepared
their coffee and eatables. Breakfast despatched, they
exchange their clean clothes for the fishing apparel,
and leap into their boats, which had been washed the pre-
vious night, and again the flotilla bounds to the fishing-
grounds.
As there may not be less than one hundred schooners
or pickaxes in the harbor, three hundred boats resort to
the banks each day, and, as each boat may procure two
thousand Cods per diem, when Saturday night comes
about six hundred thousand fishes have been brought to
the harbor. This having caused some scarcity on the
fishing-grounds, and Sunday being somewhat of an idle
day, the captain collects the salt ashore, and sets sail for
some other convenient harbor, which he expects to reach
long before sunset. If the weather be favorable, the men
EPISODES 423
get a good deal of rest during the voyage, and on Monday
things go on as before.
I must not omit to tell you, reader, that, while proceed-
ing from one harbor to another, the vessel has passed near
a rock which is the breeding-place of myriads of Puffins.
She has laid to for an hour or so, while part of the crew
have landed, and collected a store of eggs, excellent as a
substitute for cream, and not less so when hard boiled as
food for the fishing-grounds. I may as well inform you
also how these adventurous fellows distinguish the fresh
eggs from the others. They fill up some large tubs with
water, throw in a quantity of eggs, and allow them to
remain a minute or so, when those which come to the sur-
face are tossed overboard,.and even those that manifest
any upward tendency share the same treatment. All
that remain at bottom, you may depend upon it, good
reader, are perfectly sound, and not less palatable than
any that you have ever eaten, or that your best guinea
fowl has just dropped in your barn-yard. But let us re-
turn to the Codfish.
The fish already procured and salted is taken ashore at
the new harbor by part of the crew, whom the captain has
marked as the worst hands at fishing. There, on the bare
rocks, or on elevated scaffolds of considerable extent, the
salted Cod are laid side by side to dry in the sun. They
are turned several times a day, and in the intervals the
men bear a hand on board at clearing and stowing away
the daily produce of the fishing-banks. Towards evening
they return to the drying-grounds, and put up the fish in
piles resembling so many hay-stacks, disposing those to-
wards the'top in such a manner that the rain cannot injure
them, and placing a heavy stone on the summit to prevent
their being thrown down should it blow hard during the
night. You see, reader, that the life of a Labrador fisher-
man is not one of idleness.
The capelings have approached the shores, and in
424 AUDUBON
myriads enter every basin and stream, to deposit their
spawn, for now July is arrived. The Cods follow them
as the bloodhound follows his prey, and their compact
masses literally line the shores. The fishermen now adopt
another method; they have brought with them long and
deep seines, one end of which is by means of a line
fastened to the shore, while the other is, in the usual
manner, drawn out in a broad sweep, to inclose as great
a space as possible, and hauled on shore by means of a
capstan. Some of the men, in boats, support the corked
part of the net, and beat the water to frighten the fishes
within towards the land, while others, armed with poles,
enter the water, hook the fishes, and fling them on the
beach, the net being gradually drawn closer as the number
of fish diminishes. What do you think, reader, as to the
number of Cod secured in this manner in a single haul?
Thirty, or thirty thousand? You may form some notion
of the matter when I tell you that the young gentlemen of
my party, while going along the shores, caught Codfish
alive with their hands, and trout of many pounds’ weight
with a piece of twine and a mackerel-hook hung to their
gun-rods; and that, if two of them walked knee-deep
along the rocks, holding a handkerchief by the corners,
they swept it full of capelings. Should you not trust me
in this, I refer you to the fishermen themselves, or rec-
ommend you to go to Labrador, where you will give
credit to the testimony of your eyes.
The seining of the Codfish, I believe, is not guzé lawful,
for a great proportion of the codlings which are dragged
ashore at last are so small as to be considered useless;
and, instead of being returned to the water, as they ought
to be, are left on the shore, where they are ultimately
eaten by Bears, Wolves, and Ravens. The fish taken along
the coast, or on fishing stations only a few miles off, are of
small dimensions; and I believe I am correct in saying
that few of them weigh more than two pounds when per-
EPISODES 425
fectly cured, or exceed six when taken out of the water.
The fish are liable to several diseases, and at times are
annoyed by parasitic animals, which in a short time render
them lean and unfit for use.
Some individuals, from laziness or other causes, fish
with naked hooks, and thus frequently wound the Cod,
without securing them ; in consequence of which the shoals
are driven away, to the detriment of the other fishers.
Some carry their cargoes to other parts before drying
them, while others dispose of them to agents from distant
shores. Some have only a pickaxe of fifty tons, while
others are owners of seven or eight vessels of equal or
larger burden; but whatever be their means, should the
season prove favorable, they are generally well repaid for
their labor. I have known instances of men who, on
their first voyage, ranked as “ boys,” and in ten years
after were in independent circumstances, although they
still continue to resort to the fishing; for, said they to me,
“How could we be content to spend our time in idleness
at home?” J know a person of this class who has carried
on the trade for many years, and who has quite a little
fleet of schooners, one of which, the largest and most
beautifully built, has a cabin as neat and comfortable as
any that I have ever seen in a vessel of the same size.
This vessel took fish on board only when perfectly cured,
or acted as pilot to the rest, and now and then would
return home with an ample supply of halibut, or a cargo
of prime mackerel. On another occasion, I will offer
some remarks on the improvements which I think might
be made in the Cod-fisheries of the coast of Labrador.
426 AUDUBON
A BALL IN NEWFOUNDLAND
ON our return from the singularly wild and interesting
country of Labrador, the “Ripley” sailed close along the
northern coast of Newfoundland. The weather was mild
and clear, and, while my young companions amused them-
selves on the deck with the music of various instruments,
I gazed on the romantic scenery spread along the bold
and often magnificent shores. Portions of the wilds ap-
peared covered with a luxuriance of vegetable growth,
far surpassing that of the regions which we had just left,
and in some of the valleys I thought I saw trees of mod-
erate size. The number of habitations increased apace,
and many small vessels and boats danced on the waves of
the coves which we passed. Here a precipitous shore
looked like the section of a great mountain, of which the lost
half had sunk into the depths of the sea, and the dashing of
the waters along its base was such as to alarm the most dar-
ing seaman. The huge masses of broken rock impressed
my mind with awe and reverence, as I thought of the power
that still gave support to the gigantic fragments which
everywhere hung, as if by magic, over the sea, awaiting,
as it were, the proper moment to fall upon and crush
the impious crew of some piratical vessel. There, again,
gently swelling hills reared their heads towards the sky,
as if desirous of existing within the influence of its azure
purity; and I thought the bleatings of Reindeer came on
my ear. Dark clouds of Curlews were seen winging their
way towards the south, and thousands of Larks and Warblers
were flitting through the air. The sight of these birds
excited in me a wish that I also had wings to fly back to
my country and friends.
Early one morning our vessel doubled the northern cape
of the Bay of St. George, and, as the wind was light, the
sight of that magnificent expanse of water, which extends
EPISODES 427
inward to the length of eighteen leagues, with a breadth
of thirteen, gladdened the hearts of all on board. A long
range of bold shores bordered it on one side, throwing a
deep shadow over the water, which added greatly to the
beauty of the scene. On the other side, the mild beams
of the autumnal sun glittered on the water, and whitened
the sails of the little barks that were sailing to and fro,
like so many silvery Gulls. The welcome sight of cattle
feeding in cultivated meadows, and of people at their
avocations, consoled us for the labors which we had under-
gone, and the privations which we had suffered; and, as
the “ Ripley” steered her course into a snug harbor that
suddenly opened to our view, the number of vessels that
were anchored there, and a pretty village that presented
itself increased our delight.
Although the sun was fast approaching the western
horizon when our anchor was dropped, no sooner were the
sails furled than we all went ashore. There appeared a
kind of curious bustle among the people, as if they
were anxious to know who we were; for our appearance,
and that of our warlike looking schooner showed that we
were not fishermen. As we bore our usual arms and
hunting accoutrements, which were half Indian and half
civilized, the individuals we met on shore manifested con-
siderable suspicion, which our captain observing, he in-
stantly made a signal, when the star-spangled banner glided
to the mast-head, and saluted the flags of France and Britain
in kindly greeting. We were welcomed and supplied with
abundance of fresh provisions. Glad at once more stand-
ing on something like soil, we passed through the village,
and walked round it, but as night was falling were quickly
obliged to return to our floating home, where, after a
hearty supper, we serenaded with repeated glees the
peaceful inhabitants of the village.
At early dawn I was on deck admiring the scene of in-
dustry that presented itself. The harbor was already cov-
428 AUDUBON
ered with fishing-boats employed in procuring mackerel,
some of which we appropriated to ourselves. Signs of
cultivation were observed on the slopes of the hills, the
trees seemed of goodly size, a river made its way between
two ranges of steep rocks, and here and there a group
of Micmac Indians were searching along the shores for
lobsters, crabs, and eels, all of which we found abundant
and delicious. A canoe laden with Reindeer meat came
alongside, paddled by a pair of athletic Indians, who ex-
changed their cargo for some of our stores. You would
have been amused to see the manner in which these men,
and their families on shore cooked the lobsters; they
threw them alive into a great wood fire, and as soon as
they were broiled devoured them, while yet so hot that
none of us could have touched them. When properly
cooled, I tasted these roasted lobsters, and found them
infinitely better flavored than boiled ones. The country
was represented as abounding in game. The temperature
was higher by twenty degrees than that of Labrador, and
yet I was told that the ice in the bay seldom broke up
before the middle of May, and that few vessels attempted
to go to Labrador before the roth of June, when the cod-
fishery at once commences.
One afternoon we were visited by a deputation from the
inhabitants of the village, inviting our whole party to a
ball which was to take place that night, and requesting us
to take with us our musical instruments. We unanimously
accepted the invitation, which had been made from friendly
feelings; and finding that the deputies had a relish for
“old Jamaica” we helped them pretty freely to some,
which soon showed that it had lost nothing of its energies
by having visited Labrador. At ten o’clock, the appointed
hour, we landed, and were lighted to the, dancing-hall by
paper lanterns, one of us carrying a flute, another a violin,
and I with a flageolet stuck into my waistcoat pocket.
The hall proved nothing else than the ground-floor of
EPISODES 429
a fisherman’s house. We were presented to his wife, who,
like her neighbors, was an adept in the piscatory art.
She courtesied, not @ /a Taglioni, it is true, but with a
modest assurance, which to me was quite as pleasing as
the airiness with which the admired performer just men-
tioned might have paid her respects. The good woman
was rather unprepared, and quite en negligée, as was the
apartment, but full of activity, and anxious to arrange
things in becoming style. In one hand she held a bunch
of candles, in the other a lighted torch, and distribut-
ing the former at proper intervals along the walls, she
applied the latter to them in succession. This done, she
emptied the contents of a large tin vessel into a number of
glasses, which were placed on a tea-tray on the only table
in the room. The chimney, black and capacious, was em-
bellished with coffee-pots, milk-jugs, cups and saucers,
knives and forks, and all the paraphernalia necessary on
so important an occasion. A set of primitive wooden
stools and benches was placed around, for the reception
of the belles of the village, some of whom now dropped in,
flourishing in all the rosy fatness produced by an invigor-
ating northern climate, and in decoration vying with the
noblest Indian queen of the West. Their stays seemed
ready to burst open, and their shoes were equally pressed.
Around their necks, brilliant beads mingled with ebony
tresses, and their naked arms might have inspired appre-
hension had they not been constantly employed in arrang-
ing flowing ribbons, gaudy flowers, and muslin flounces.
Now arrived one of the beaux, just returned from the
fishing, who, knowing all, and being equally known, leaped
without ceremony on the loose boards that formed a kind
of loft overhead, where he soon exchanged his dripping
apparel for adress suited to the occasion, when he dropped
upon the floor, and strutting up and down, bowed and
scraped to the ladies, with as much ease, if not elegance,
as a Bond Street highly scented exquisite. Others came
430 AUDUBON
in by degrees, ready dressed, and music was called for.
My son, by way of overture, played “ Hail Columbia,
happy land,” then went on with ‘‘La Marseillaise,’ and
ended with “ God save the King.” Being merely a spec-
tator, I ensconced myself in a corner, by the side of an
old European gentleman, whom I found an agreeable and
well informed companion, to admire the decorum of the
motley assemblage.
The dancers stood in array, little time having been spent
in choosing partners, and a Canadian accompanying my son
on his Cremona, mirth and joy soon abounded. Dancing
is certainly one of the most healthful and innocent amuse-
ments; I have loved it a vast deal more than watching for
the nibble of a trout, and I have sometimes thought the
enjoyment of it softened my nature as much as the pale,
pure light of the moon softens and beautifies a winter
night. A maiden lady who sat at my side, and who was
the only daughter of my talkative companion, relished my
remarks on the subject so much that the next set saw her
gracing the floor with her tutored feet.
At each pause of the musicians refreshments were
handed round by the hostess and her son, and I was not
a little surprised to see all the ladies, maids and matrons,
swallow, like their sweethearts and husbands, a full glass of
pure rum, with evident pleasure. I should perhaps have
recollected that, in cold climates, a glass of ardent spirits is
not productive of the same effects as in burning latitudes,
and that refinement had not yet induced these healthy and
robust dames to affect a delicacy foreign to their nature.
It was now late, and knowing how much I had to ac-
complish next day, I left the party and proceeded to the
shore. My men were sound asleep in the boat, but in a
few moments I was on board the “Ripley.” My young
friends arrived towards daylight, but many of the fisher-
men’s sons and daughters kept up the dance, to the music
of the Canadian, until after our breakfast was over.
EPISODES 431
THE BAY OF FUNDY
It was in the month of May that I sailed in the United
States revenue cutter, the “Swiftsure,” engaged in a
cruise in the Bay of Fundy. Our sails were quickly un-
furled and spread out to the breeze. The vessel seemed
to fly over the surface of the liquid element, as the sun
rose in full splendor, while the clouds that floated here
and there formed, with their glowing hues, a rich contrast
with the pure azure of the heavens above us. We ap-
proached apace the island of Grand Menan, of which the
stupendous cliffs gradually emerged from the deep with
the majestic boldness of her noblest native chief. Soon
our bark passed beneath its craggy head, covered with
trees, which, on account of the height, seemed scarcely
larger than shrubs. The prudent Raven spread her pin-
ions, launched from the cliff, and flew away before us;
the Golden Eagle, soaring aloft, moved majestically along
in wide circles; the Guillemots sat on their eggs upon
the shelving precipices, or plunging into the water, dived,
and rose again at a great distance; the broad-breasted
Eider Duck covered her eggs among the grassy tufts; on
a naked rock the Seal lazily basked, its sleek sides glis-
tening in the sunshine; while shoals of porpoises were
swiftly gliding through the waters around us, showing by
their gambols that, although doomed to the deep, their
life was not devoid of pleasure. Far away stood the bold
shores of Nova Scotia, gradually fading in the distance,
of which the gray tints beautifully relieved the wing-like
sails of many a fishing bark.
Cape after cape, forming eddies and counter currents
far too terrific to be described by a landsman, we passed
in succession, until we reached a deep cove, near the
shores of White Head Island, which is divided from
Grand Menan by a narrow strait, where we anchored se-
432 AUDUBON
cure from every blast that could blow. Ina short time
we found ourselves under the roof of Captain Frankland,
the sole owner of the isle, of which the surface contains
about fifteen hundred acres. He received us all with
politeness and gave us permission to seek out its treas-
ures, which we immediately set about doing, for I was
anxious to study the habits of certain Gulls that breed
there in great numbers. As Captain Coolidge, our worthy
commander, had assured me, we found them on their
nests on almost every ¢ree of a wood that covered several
acres. What atreat, reader, was it to find birds of this
kind lodged on fir-trees, and sitting comfortably on their
eggs! Their loud cackling notes led us to their place of
resort, and ere long we had satisfactorily observed their
habits, and collected as many of themselves and their
eggs as we considered sufficient. In our walks we noticed
a Rat, the only quadruped found on the island, and ob-
served abundance of gooseberries, currants, raspberries,
strawberries, and huckleberries. Seating ourselves on
the summit of the rocks, in view of the vast Atlantic, we
spread out our stores, and refreshed ourselves with our
simple fare.
Now we followed the objects of our pursuit through the
tangled woods, now carefully picked our steps over the
spongy grounds. The air was filled with the melodious
concerts of birds, and all Nature seemed to smile in quiet
enjoyment. We wandered about until the setting sun
warned us to depart, when, returning to the house of the
proprietor, we sat down to an excellent repast, and amused
ourselves with relating anecdotes and forming arrange-
ments for the morrow. Our captain complimented us on
our success, when we reached the “Swiftsure,” and in
due time we betook ourselves to our hammocks.
The next morning, a strange sail appearing in the dis-
tance, preparations were instantly made to pay her com-
mander a visit. The signal staff of White Head Island
EPISODES 433
displayed the British flag, while Captain Frankland and
his men stood on the shore, and as we gave our sails to
the wind, three hearty cheers filled the air, and were in-
stantly responded to by us. The vessel was soon ap-
proached, but all was found right with her, and squaring
our yards, onward we sped, cheerily bounding over the
gay billows, until our captain sent us ashore at Eastport.
At another time my party was received on board the
revenue cutter’s tender, the “Fancy,’”—a charming
name for so beautiful a craft. We set sail towards even-
ing. The cackling of the “old wives” that covered the
bay filled me with delight, and thousands of Gulls and
Cormorants seemed as if anxious to pilot us into Head
Harbor Bay, where we anchored for the night. Leaping
on the rugged shore, we made our way to the lighthouse,
where we found Mr. Snelling, a good and honest English-
man from Devonshire. His family consisted of three
wild-looking lasses, beautiful, like the most finished pro-
ductions of nature. In his lighthouse snugly ensconced,
he spent his days in peaceful forgetfulness of the world,
subsisting principally on the fish of the bay.
When day broke, how delightful it was to see fair
Nature open her graceful eyelids, and present herself
arrayed in all that was richest and purest before her Cre-
ator. Ah, reader, how indelibly are such moments en-
graved on my soul! With what ardor have I at such times
gazed around me, full of the desire of being enabled to
comprehend all that Isaw! How often have I longed to
converse with the feathered inhabitants of the forest, all
of which seemed then intent on offering up their thanks
to the object of my own adoration! But the wish could
not be gratified, although I now feel satisfied that I have
enjoyed as much of the wonders and beauties of nature as
it was proper for me to enjoy. The delightful trills of
the Winter Wren rolled through the underwood, the Red
Squirrel smacked time with his chops, the loud notes of
VOL. II. — 28
434 AUDUBON
the Robin sounded clearly from the tops of the trees, the
rosy Grosbeak nipped the tender blossoms of the maples,
and high overhead the Loons passed in pairs, rapidly
wending their way towards far distant shores. Would
that I could have followed in their wake! The hour of
our departure had come; and, as we sailed up the bay,
our pilot, who had been fishing for cod, was taken on
board. A few of his fish were roasted on a plank before
the embers, and formed the principal part of our break-
fast. The breeze was light, and it was not until after-
noon that we arrived at Point Lepreaux Harbor, where
every one, making choice of his course, went in search of
curiosities and provender.
Now, reader, the little harbor in which, if you wish it,
we shall suppose we still are, is renowned for a circum-
stance which I feel much inclined to endeavor to explain
to you. Several species of Ducks, that in myriads cover
the waters of the Bay of Fundy, are at times destroyed in
this particular spot in a very singular manner. When
July has come, all the water birds that are no longer cap-
able of reproducing, remain like so many forlorn bach-
elors and old maids, to renew their plumage along the
shores. At the period when these poor birds are unfit
for flight, troops of Indians make their appearance in
light bark canoes, paddled by their squaws and papooses.
They form their flotilla into an extended curve, and drive
before them the birds, not in silence, but with simultan-
eous horrific yells, at the same time beating the surface
of the water with long poles and paddles. Terrified by
the noise, the birds swim a long way before them, en-
deavoring to escape with all their might. The tide is
high, every cove is filled, and into the one where we now
are, thousands of Ducks are seen entering. The Indians
have ceased to shout, and the canoes advance side by side.
Time passes on, the tide swiftly recedes as it rose, and
there are the birds left on the beach. See with what
EPISODES 435
pleasure each wild inhabitant of the forest seizes his
stick, the squaws and younglings following with similar
weapons! Look at them rushing on their prey, falling
on the disabled birds, and smashing them with their cud-
gels, until all are destroyed! In this manner upwards of
five hundred wild fowls have often been procured in a
few hours.
Three pleasant days were spent at Point Lepreaux,
when the “Fancy” spread her wings to the breeze. In
one harbor we fished for shells with a capital dredge, and
in another searched along the shore for eggs. The Pas-
samaquoddy chief is seen gliding swiftly over the deep
in his fragile bark. He has observed a porpoise breath-
ing. Watch him, for now he is close upon the unsuspect-
ing dolphin. He rises erect, aims his musket; smoke
rises curling from the pan, and rushes from the iron tube,
when soon after the report comes on the ear. Meantime
the porpoise has suddenly turned back downwards, — it is
dead. The body weighs a hundred pounds or more, but
this to the tough-fibred son of the woods is nothing; he
reaches it with his muscular arms, and at a single jerk,
while with his legs he dexterously steadies the canoe, he
throws it lengthwise at his feet. Amidst the highest
waves of the Bay of Fundy, these feats are performed by
the Indians during the whole of the season when the por-
poises resort thither.
You have often, no doubt, heard of the extraordinary
tides of this bay; so had I, but, like others, I was loath
to believe the reports were strictly true. So I went to
the pretty town of Windsor in Nova Scotia, to judge for
myself. But let us leave the “Fancy” for a while, and
imagine ourselves at Windsor. Late one day in August
my companions and I were seated on the grassy and ele-
vated bank of the river, about eighty feet or so above its
bed, which was almost dry, and extended for nine miles
below like a sandy wilderness. Many vessels lay on
436 AUDUBON
the high banks taking in their lading of gypsum. We
thought the appearance very singular, but we were too
late to watch the tide that evening. Next morning we
resumed our station, and soon perceived the water flow-
ing towards us, and rising with a rapidity of which we
had previously seen no example. We planted along the
steep declivity of the bank a number of sticks, each three
feet long, the base of one being placed on a level with
the top of that below it, and when about half flow the tide
reached their tops, one after another, rising three feet in
ten minutes, or eighteen in the hour; and, at high water
the surface was sixty-five feet above the bed of the river!
On looking for the vessels which we had seen the preced-
ing evening, we were told most of them were gone with
the night tide.
But now we are again on board the “Fancy;” Mr.
Claredge stands near the pilot, who sits next to the man
at the helm. On we move swiftly for the breeze has
freshened; many islands we pass in succession; the wind
increases to a gale; with reefed sails we dash along, and
now rapidly pass a heavily laden sloop gallantly running
across our course with undiminished sail; when suddenly
we see her upset. Staves and spars are floating around,
and presently we observe three men scrambling up her
sides, and seating themselves on the keel, where they
make signals of distress to us. By this time we have run
to a great distance; but Claredge, cool and prudent, as
every seaman ought to be, has already issued his orders
to the helmsman and crew, and now near the wind we
‘gradually approach the sufferers. A line is thrown to
them, and the next moment we are alongside the vessel.
A fisher’s boat, too, has noticed the disaster; and, with
long strokes of her oars, advances, now rising on the
curling wave, and now sinking out of sight. By our mut-
ual efforts the men are brought on board, and the sloop is
slowly towed into a safe harbor. An hour later my party
EPISODES 437
was safely landed at Eastport, where, on looking over the
waters, and observing the dense masses of vapor that
veiled the shores, we congratulated ourselves at having
escaped from the Bay of Fundy.
A FLOOD
Many of our larger streams, such as the Mississippi, the
Ohio, the Illinois, the Arkansas, and the Red River, ex-
hibit at certain seasons the most extensive overflowings
of their waters, to which the name of foods is more appro-
priate than the term /reshe¢s, usually applied to the sud-
den risings of smaller streams. If we consider the vast
extent of country through which an inland navigation is
afforded by the never-failing supply of water furnished by
these wonderful rivers, we cannot suppose them exceeded
in magnitude by any other in the known world. It will
easily be imagined what a wonderful spectacle must pre-
sent itself to the eye of the traveller who for the first
time views the enormous mass of waters, collected from
the vast central regions of our continent, booming along,
turbid and swollen to overflowing, in the broad channels
of the Mississippi and Ohio, the latter of which has a
course of more than a thousand miles, and the former of
several thousands.
To give you some idea of a Booming Flood of these
gigantic streams, it is necessary to state the causes which
give rise to it. These are, the sudden melting of the
snows on the mountains, and heavy rains continued for
several weeks. When it happens that, during a severe
winter, the Alleghany Mountains have been covered with
snow to the depth of several feet, and the accumulated
mass has remained unmelted for a length of time, the
materials of a flood are thus prepared. It now and then
438 AUDUBON
happens that the winter is hurried off by a sudden in-
crease of temperature, when the accumulated snows melt
away simultaneously over the whole country, and the
southeasterly wind, which then usually blows, brings
along with it a continued fall of heavy rain, which, min-
gling with the dissolving snow, deluges the alluvial por-
tions of the western country, filling up the rivulets,
ravines, creeks, and small rivers. These delivering their
waters to the great streams, cause the latter not merely
to rise to a surprising height, but to overflow their banks,
wherever the land is low. On such occasions the Ohio
itself presents a splendid, and at the same time, an ap-
palling spectacle; but when its waters mingle with those
of the Mississippi, then, kind reader, is the time to view
an American flood in all its astonishing magnificence.
At the foot of the Falls of the Ohio, the water has
been known to rise upwards of sixty feet above its lowest
level. The river, at this point, has already run a course
of nearly seven hundred miles from its origin at Pittsburgh
in Pennsylvania, during which it has received the waters
of its numberless tributaries, and overflowing all the bot-
tom lands or valleys, has swept along the fences and
dwellings which have been unable to resist its violence.
IT could relate hundreds of incidents which might prove
to you the dreadful effects of such an inundation, and
which have been witnessed by thousands besides myself.
I have known, for example, of a cow swimming through a
window, elevated at least seven feet from the ground, and
sixty-two feet above low-water mark. The house was
then surrounded by water from the Ohio, which runs in
front of it, while the neighboring country was overflowed;
yet, the family did not remove from it, but remained in
its upper portion, having previously taken off the sashes
of the lower windows, and opened the doors. But let us
return to the Mississippi.
There the overflow is astonishing, for no sooner has the
EPISODES 439
water reached the upper part of the banks than it rushes
out and overspreads the whole of the neighboring swamps,
presenting an ocean overgrown with stupendous forest-
trees. So sudden is the calamity that every individual,
whether man or beast, has to exert his utmost ingenuity
to enable him to escape from the dreaded element. The
Indian quickly removes to the hills of the interior, the
cattle and game swim to the different strips of land that
remain uncovered in the midst of the flood, or attempt to
force their way through the waters until they perish from
fatigue. Along the banks of the river, the inhabitants
have rafts ready made, on which they remove themselves,
their cattle, and their provisions, and which they then
fasten with ropes or grape-vines to the larger trees, while
they contemplate the melancholy spectacle presented by
the current, as it carries off their houses and wood-yards
piece by piece. Some who have nothing to lose, and are
usually known by the name of sguatters, take this oppor-
tunity of traversing the woods in canoes, for the purpose
of procuring game, and particularly the skins of animals,
such as the Deer and Bear, which may be converted into
money. They resort to the low ridges surrounded by the
waters, and destroy thousands of Deer, merely for their
skins, leaving the flesh to putrefy.
The river itself, rolling its swollen waters along, pre-
sents a spectacle of the most imposing nature. Although
no large vessel, unless propelled by steam, can now make
its way against the current, it is seen covered by boats,
laden with produce, which, running out from all the
smaller streams, float silently towards the city of New
Orleans, their owners meanwhile not very well assured of
finding a landing-place even there. The water is covered
with yellow foam and pumice, the latter having floated
from the Rocky Mountains of the Northwest. The
eddies are larger and more powerful than ever. Here
and there tracts of forest are observed undermined, the
440 AUDUBON
trees gradually giving way, and falling into the stream.
Cattle, horses, Bears, and Deer are seen at times attempt-
ing to swim across the impetuous mass of foaming and
boiling water; whilst here and there a Vulture or an Eagle
is observed perched on a bloated carcass, tearing it up in
pieces, as regardless of the flood as on former occasions
it would have been of the numerous sawyers and planters
with which the surface of the river is covered when the
water is low. Even the steamer is frequently distressed.
The numberless trees and logs that float along break its
paddles, and retard its progress. Besides, it is on such
occasions difficult to procure fuel to maintain its fires;
and it is only at very distant intervals that a wood-yard
can be found which the water has not carried off.
Following the river in your canoe, you reach those
parts of the shores that are protected against the overflow-
ings of the waters, and are called /evees. There you find
the whole population of the district at work repairing and
augmenting those artificial barriers, which are several
feet above the level of the fields. Every person appears
to dread the opening of a crevasse, by which the waters
may rush into his fields. In spite of all exertions, how-
ever, the crevasse opens, the water bursts impetuously
over the plantations, and lays waste the crops which so
lately were blooming in all the luxuriance of spring. It
opens up a new channel, which, for aught I know to the
contrary, may carry its waters even to the Mexican Galf.
I have floated on the Mississippi and Ohio when thus
swollen, and have in different places visited the sub-
mersed lands of the interior, propelling a light canoe by
the aid of a paddle. In this manner I have traversed im-
mense portions of the country overflowed by the waters of
these rivers, and particularly when floating over the Mis-
sissippi bottom-lands I have been struck with awe at the
sight. Little or no current is met with, unless when the
canoe passes over the bed of a bayou. All is silent and
EPISODES 441
melancholy, unless when the mournful bleating of the
hemmed-in Deer reaches your ear, or the dismal scream
of an Eagle ora Raven is heard, as the foul bird rises, dis-
turbed by your approach, from the carcass on which it
was allaying its craving appetite. Bears, Cougars, Lynxes,
and all other quadrupeds that can ascend the trees are
observed crouched among their top branches. Hungry
in the midst of abundance, although they see floating
around them the animals on which they usually prey,
they dare not venture to swim to them. Fatigued by the
exertions which they have made to reach the dry land,
they will there stand the hunter’s fire, as if to die by a
ball were better than to perish amid the waste of waters.
On occasions like this, all these animals are shot by
hundreds.
Opposite the city of Natchez, which stands on a bluff
bank of considerable elevation, the extent of inundated
land is immense, the greater portion of the tract lying
between the Mississippi and the Red River, which is
more than thirty miles in breadth, being under water.
The mail-bag has often been carried through the im-
mersed forests, in a canoe, for even a greater distance, in
order to be forwarded to Natchitochez.
But now, kind reader, observe this great flood gradually
subsiding, and again see the mighty changes which it has
effected. The waters have now been carried into the dis-
tant ocean. The earth is everywhere covered by a deep
deposit of muddy loam, which in drying splits into deep
and narrow chasms, presenting a reticulated appearance,
and from which, as the weather becomes warmer, disa-
greeable, and at times noxious, exhalations arise, and fill
the lower stratum of the atmosphere as with a dense fog.
The banks of the river have almost everywhere been
broken down in a greater or less degree. Large streams
are now found to exist, where none were formerly to be
seen, having forced their way in direct lines from the
442 AUDUBON
upper parts of the bends. These are by the navigator
called short-cuts. Some of them have proved large enough
to produce a change in the navigation of the Mississippi.
If I mistake not, one of these, known by the name of the
Grand Cut-off, and only a few miles in length, has di-
verted the river from its natural course, and has shortened
it by fifty miles. The upper parts of the islands present
a bulwark consisting of an enormous mass of floated trees
of all kinds, which have lodged there. Large sand-banks
have been completely removed by the impetuous whirls
of the waters, and have been deposited in other places.
Some appear quite new to the eye of the navigator, who
has to mark their situation and bearings in his log-book.
The trees on the margins of the banks have in many parts
given way. They are seen bending over the stream, like
the grounded arms of an overwhelmed army of giants.
Everywhere are heard the lamentations of the farmer and
planter, whilst their servants and themselves are busily
employed in repairing the damages occasioned by the
floods. At one crevasse an old ship or two, dismantled
for the purpose, are sunk, to obstruct the passage opened
by the still rushing waters, while new earth is brought
to fill up the chasms. The squatter is seen shouldering
his rifle, and making his way through the morass, in
search of his lost stock, to drive the survivors home, and
save the skins of the drowned. New fences have every-
where to be formed; even new houses must be erected, to
save which from a like disaster, the settler places them
on an elevated platform supported by pillars made by the
trunks of trees. The land must be ploughed anew, and
if the season is not too far advanced, a crop of corn and
potatoes may yet be raised. But the rich prospects of
the planter are blasted. The traveller is impeded in his
journey, the creeks and smaller streams having broken up
their banks in a degree proportionate to their size. A
bank of sand, which seems firm and secure, suddenly
EPISODES 443
gives way beneath the traveller’s horse, and the next
moment the animal has sunk in the quicksand, either to
the chest in front, or over the crupper behind, leaving its
master in a situation not to be envied.
Unlike the mountain torrents and small rivers of other
parts of the world, the Mississippi rises but slowly dur-
ing these floods, continuing for several weeks to increase
at the rate of about an inchaday. When at its height,
it undergoes little fluctuation for some days, and after
this, subsides as slowly as it rose. The usual duration of
a flood is from four to six weeks, although, on some occa-
sions, it is protracted to two months.
Every one knows how largely the idea of floods and
cataclysms enters into the speculations of the geologist.
If the streamlets of the European continent afford illus-
trations of the formation of strata, how much more must
the Mississippi, with its ever-shifting sand-banks, its
crumbling shores, its enormous masses of drift timber,
the source of future beds of coal, its extensive and varied
alluvial deposits, and its mighty mass of waters rolling
sullenly along, like the flood of eternity.
THE SQUATTERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI
ALTHOUGH every European traveller who has glided down
the Mississippi, at the rate of ten miles an hour, has told
his tale of the squatters, yet none has given any other
account of them, than that they are “a sallow, sickly
looking sort of miserable beings,” living in swamps, and
subsisting on pig-nuts, Indian-corn, and Bear’s-flesh. It
is obvious, however, that none but a person acquainted
with their history, manners, and condition, can give any
real information respecting them.
The individuals who become squatters, choose that sort
i
444. AUDUBON
of life of their own free will. They mostly remove from
other parts of the United States, after finding that land
has become too high in price, and they are persons who,
having a family of strong and hardy children, are anxious
to enable them to provide for themselves. They have
heard from good authorities that the country extending
along the great streams of the West, is of all parts of the
Union, the richest in its soil, the growth of its timber,
and the abundance of its game; that, besides, the Missis-
sippi is the great road to and from all the markets in the
world; and that every vessel borne by its waters affords
to settlers some chance of selling their commodities, or
of exchanging them for others. To these recommenda-
tions is added another, of even greater weight with per-
sons of the above denomination, namely, the prospect of
being able to settle on land, and perhaps to hold it for
a number of years, without purchase, rent or tax of any
kind. How many thousands of individuals in all parts of
the globe would gladly try their fortune with such pros-
pects, I leave to you, reader, to determine.
As I am not disposed too highly to color the picture
which I am about to submit to your inspection, instead
of pitching on individuals who have removed from our
eastern boundaries, and of whom certainly there are a
good number, I shall introduce to you the members of a
family from Virginia, first giving you an idea of their
condition in that country, previous to their migration to
the west. The land which they and their ancestors have
possessed for a hundred years, having been constantly
forced to produce crops of one kind or another, is now
completely worn out. It exhibits only a superficial layer
of red clay, cut up by deep ravines, through which much
of the soil has been conveyed to some more fortunate
neighbor, residing in a yet rich and beautiful valley.
Their strenuous efforts to render it productive have
failed. They dispose of everything too cumbrous or ex-
EPISODES 445
pensive for them to remove, retaining only a few horses,
a servant or two, and such implements of husbandry and
other articles as may be necessary on their journey, or
useful when they arrive at the spot of their choice.
I think I see them at this moment harnessing their
horses, and attaching them to their wagons, which are
already filled with bedding, provisions, and the younger
children, while on their outside are fastened spinning-
wheels and looms, and a bucket filled with tar and tallow
swings between the hind wheels. Several axes are se-
cured to the bolster, and the feeding-trough of the horses
contains pots, kettles, and pans. The servant, now be-
come a driver, rides the near saddled horse, the wife is
mounted on another, the worthy husband shoulders his
gun, and his sons, clad in plain substantial homespun,
drive the cattle ahead, and lead the procession, followed
by the hounds and other dogs. Their day’s journey is
short, and not agreeable; the cattle, stubborn or wild,
frequently leave the road for the woods, giving the travel-
lers much trouble; the harness of the horses here and
there gives way, and needs immediate repair; a basket,
which has accidentally dropped, must be gone after, for
nothing that they have can be spared; the roads are bad,
and now and then all hands are called to push on the
wagon, or prevent it from upsetting. Yet by sunset they
have proceeded perhaps twenty miles. Rather fatigued,
all assemble round the fire, which has been lighted, sup-
per is prepared, and a camp being erected, there they
pass the night.
Days and weeks, nay months, of unremitting toil, pass
before they gain the end of their journey. They have
crossed both the Carolinas, Georgia, and Alabama. They
have been travelling from the beginning of May to that
of September, and with heavy hearts they traverse the
State of Mississippi. But now, arrived on the banks of
the broad stream, they gaze in amazement on the dark
446 AUDUBON
deep woods around them. Boats of various kinds they
see gliding downwards with the current, while others
slowly ascend against it. A few inquiries are made at
the nearest dwelling, and assisted by the inhabitants with
their boats, and canoes, they at once cross’ the Missis-
sippi, and select their place of habitation.
The exhalations arising from the swamps and morasses
around them have a powerful effect on these new settlers,
but all are intent on preparing for the winter. A small
patch of ground is cleared by the axe and the fire, a tem-
porary cabin is erected, to each of the cattle is attached
a jingling bell before it is let loose into the neighboring
cane-brake, and the horses remain about the house, where
they find sufficient food at that season. The first trading-
boat that stops at their landing, enables them to provide
themselves with some flour, fish-hooks, and ammunition,
as well as other commodities. The looms are mounted,
the spinning-wheels soon furnish some yarn, and in a few
weeks the family throw off their ragged clothes, and array
themselves in suits adapted to the climate. The father
and sons meanwhile have sown turnips and other vegeta-
bles; and from some Kentucky flatboat, a supply of live
poultry has been procured.
October tinges the leaves of the forest, the morning
dews are heavy, the days hot, the nights chill, and the
unacclimated family in a few days are attacked with ague.
The lingering disease almost prostrates their whole facul-
ties, and one seeing them at such a period might well
call them sallow and sickly. Fortunately the unhealthy
season soon passes over, and the hoar-frosts make their
appearance. Gradually each individual recovers strength.
The largest ash-trees are felled; their trunks are cut,
split, and corded in front of the building; a large fire is
lighted at night on the edge of the water, and soon a
steamer calls to purchase the wood, and thus add to their
comforts during the winter.
EPISODES 447
The first fruit of their industry imparts new courage to
them; their exertions multiply, and when spring returns,
the place has a cheerful look. Venison, Bear’s-flesh,
Wild Turkeys, Ducks and Geese, with now and then some
fish, have served to keep up their strength, and now their
enlarged field is planted with corn, potatoes, and pump-
kins. Their stock of cattle, too, has augmented; the
steamer, which now stops there as if by preference, buys
a calf or a pig, together with the whole of their wood.
Their store of provisions is renewed, and brighter rays of
hope enliven their spirits.
Who is he of the settlers on the Mississippi that cannot
realize some profit? Truly none who is industrious.
When the autumnal months return, all are better pre-
pared to encounter the ague which then prevails. Sub-
stantial food, suitable clothing, and abundant firing, repel
its attacks; and before another twelvemonth has elapsed
the family is naturalized. The sons have by this time
discovered a swamp covered with excellent timber, and
as they have seen many great rafts of saw logs, bound for
the mills of New Orleans, floating past their dwelling,
they resolve to try the success of a little enterprise.
Their industry and prudence have already enhanced their
credit. A few cross-saws are purchased, and some broad-
wheeled “carry-logs” are made by themselves. Log after
log, is hauled to the bank of the river, and in a short
time their first raft is made on the shore, and loaded with
cord-wood. When the next freshet sets it afloat, it is
secured by long grape-vines or cables, until the proper
time being arrived, the husband and sons embark on it,
and float down the mighty stream.
After encountering many difficulties, they arrive in
safety at New Orleans, where they dispose of their stock,
the money obtained for which may be said to be all profit,
supply themselves with such articles as may add to their
convenience or comfort, and with light hearts procure a
448 AUDUBON
passage on the upper deck of a steamer, at a very cheap
rate, on account of the benefit of their labor in taking in
wood or otherwise.
And now the vessel approaches their home. See the
joyous mother and daughters as they stand on the bank!
A store of vegetables lies around them, a large tub of
fresh milk is at their feet, and in their hands are plates,
filled with rolls of butter. As the steamer stops, three
broad straw hats are waved from the upper deck, and soon
husband and wife, brothers and sisters, are in each other’s
embrace. The boat carries off the provisions for which
value has been left, and as the captain issues his orders
for putting on the steam, the happy family enter their
humble dwelling. The husband gives his bag of dollars
to the wife, while the sons present some token of affec-
tion to the sisters. Surely, at such a moment, the squat-
ters are richly repaid for all their labors.
Every successive year has increased their savings.
They now possess a large stock of horses, cows, and hogs,
with abundance of provisions, and domestic comfort of
every kind. The daughters have been married to the
sons of neighboring squatters, and have gained sisters to
themselves by the marriage of their brothers. The gov-
ernment secures to the family the lands on which,
twenty years before, they settled in poverty and sickness.
Larger buildings are erected on piles, secure from the
inundations; where a single cabin once stood, a neat
village is now to be seen; warehouses, stores, and work-
shops increase the importance of the place. The squat-
ters live respected, and in due time die regretted by all
who knew them.
Thus are the vast frontiers of our country peopled, and
thus does cultivation, year after year, extend over the
western wilds. Time will no doubt be, when the great
valley of the Mississippi, still covered with primeval for-
ests interspersed with swamps, will smile with corn-fields
EPISODES 449
and orchards, while crowded cities will rise at intervals
along its banks, and enlightened nations will rejoice in
the bounties of Providence.
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE NAVIGATION OF
THE MISSISSIPPI
I HAVE so frequently spoken of the Mississippi that an
account of the progress of navigation on that extraordinary
stream may be interesting even to the student of nature.
I shall commence with the year 1808, at which time a
great portion of the western country, and the banks of
the Mississippi River, from above the city of Natchez
particularly, were little more than a waste, or to use words
better suited to my feelings, remained in their natural
state. To ascend the great stream against a powerful
current, rendered still stronger wherever islands occurred,
together with the thousands of sand-banks, as liable to
changes and shiftings as the alluvial shores themselves,
which at every deep curve or dexd were seen giving way,
as if crushed down by the weight of the great forests that
everywhere reached to the very edge of the water, and
falling and sinking in the muddy stream by acres at a
time, was an adventure of no small difficulty and risk, and
which was rendered more so by the innumerable logs,
called sawyers and planters, that everywhere raised their
heads above the water, as if bidding defiance to all in-
truders. Few white inhabitants had yet marched towards
its shores, and these few were of a class little able to
assist the navigator. Here and there a solitary encamp-
ment of native Indians might be seen, but its inmates were
as likely to prove foes as friends, having from their birth
been made keenly sensible of the encroachments of the
white men upon their lands.
VOL, 11. — 29
450 AUDUBON
Such was then the nature of the Mississippi and its
shores. That river was navigated, principally in the di-
rection of the current, in small canoes, pirogues, keel-
boats, some flatboats, and a few barges. The canoes
and pirogues, being generally laden with furs from the
different heads of streams that feed the great river, were
of little worth after reaching the market of New Orleans,
and seldom reascended, the owners making their way
home through the woods, amidst innumerable difficulties,
The flatboats were demolished and used as fire-wood.
The keel-boats and barges were employed in conveying
produce of different kinds besides furs, such as lead,
flour, pork, and other articles. These returned laden with
sugar, coffee, and dry goods suited for the markets of
St. Geneviéve and St. Louis on the upper Mississippi, or
branched off and ascended the Ohio to the foot of the
Falls near Louisville in Kentucky. But, reader, follow
their movements, and judge for yourself of the fatigues,
troubles, and risks of the men employed in that navigation.
A keel-boat was generally manned by ten hands, principally
Canadian French, and a patroon or master. These boats
seldom carried more than from twenty to thirty tons.
The barges frequently had forty or fifty men, with a pa-
troon, and carried fifty or sixty tons. Both these kinds of
vessels were provided with a mast, a square sail, and coils
of cordage known by the name of cordelles. Each boat
or barge carried its own provisions. We shall suppose
one of these boats under way, and, having passed Natchez,
entering upon what were the difficulties of their ascent.
Wherever a point projected, so as to render the course or
bend below it of some magnitude, there was an eddy, the
returning current of which was sometimes as strong as
that of the middle of the great stream. The bargemen
therefore rowed up pretty close under the bank, and had
merely to keep watch in the bow, lest the boat should run
against a planter or sawyer. But the boat has reached the
EPISODES 451
point, and there the current is to all appearance of double
strength, and right against it. The men, who have all
rested a few minutes, are ordered to take their stations,
and lay hold of their oars, for the river must be crossed,
it being seldom possible to double such a point, and pro-
ceed along the same shore. The boat is crossing, its
head slanting to the current, which is, however, too strong
for the rowers, and when the other side of the river has
been reached, it has drifted perhaps a quarter of a mile.
The men are by this time exhausted, and, as we shall
suppose it to be twelve o'clock, fasten the boat to the
shore or to a tree. A small glass of whiskey is given to
each, when they cook and eat their dinner, and after re-
pairing their fatigue by an hour's repose, recommence
their labors. The boat is again seen slowly advancing
against the stream. It has reached the lower end of a
large sand-bar, along the edge of which it is propelled by
means of long poles, if the bottom be hard. Two men
called bowsmen remain at the prow, to assist, in concert
with the steersman, in managing the boat, and keeping its
head right against the current. The rest place themselves
on the land side of the footway of the vessel, put one end
of their poles on the ground, the other against their
shoulders, and push with all their might. As each of the
men reaches the stern, he crosses to the other side, runs
along it, and comes again to the landward side of the
bow, when he recommences operations. The barge in
the meantime is ascending at a rate not exceeding one
mile in the hour.
The bar is at length passed, and as the shore in sight
is straight on both sides of the river, and the current
uniformly strong, the poles are laid aside, and the men
being equally divided, those on the river side take to
their oars, whilst those on the land side lay hold of the
branches of willows, or other trees, and thus slowly propel
the boat. Here and there however, the trunk of a fallen
452 AUDUBON
tree, partly lying on the bank, and partly projecting be-
yond it, impedes their progress, and requires to be doubled.
This is performed by striking it with the iron points of the
poles and gaff-hooks. The sun is now quite low, and the
barge is again secured in the best harbor within reach.
The navigators cook their supper, and betake themselves
to their blankets or Bear skins to rest, or perhaps light a
large fire on the shore, under the smoke of which they
repose, in order to avoid the persecutions of the myriads
of mosquitoes which are found along the river during
the whole summer. Perhaps, from dawn to sunset, the
boat may have advanced fifteen miles. If so, it has done
well. The next day, the wind proves favorable, the sail
is set, the boat takes all advantages, and meeting with
no accident, has ascended thirty miles, perhaps double
that distance. The next day comes with a very different
aspect. The wind is right ahead, the shores are with-
out trees of any kind, and the canes on the bank are so
thick and stout that not even the cordelles can be used.
This occasions a halt. The time is not altogether lost, as
most of the men, being provided with rifles, betake them-
selves to the woods, and search for the Deer, the Bears, or
the Turkeys that are generally abundant there. Three
days may pass before the wind changes, and the advan-
tages gained on the previous fine day are forgotten.
Again the boat proceeds, but in passing over a shallow
place, runs on a log, swings with the current, but hangs
fast, with her lee side almost under water. Now for the
poles! All hands are on deck, bustling and pushing. At
length, towards sunset, the boat is once more afloat, and is
again taken to the shore, where the wearied crew pass
another night.
I shall not continue this account of difficulties, it having
already become painful in the extreme. I could tell you
of the crew abandoning the boat and cargo, and of number-
less accidents and perils; but be it enough to say that
EPISODES 453
advancing in this tardy manner, the boat that left New
Orleans on the first of March often did not reach the Falls
of the Ohio until the month of July, — nay, sometimes
not until October; and after all this immense trouble, it
brought only a few bags of coffee, and at most one hun-
dred hogsheads of sugar. Such was the state of things
in 1808. The number of barges at that period did not
amount to more than twenty-five or thirty, and the largest
probably did not exceed one hundred tons burden. To
make the best of this fatiguing navigation, I may con-
clude by saying that a barge which came up in three
months had done wonders, for, I believe, few voyages were
performed in that time.
If I am not mistaken, the first steamboat that went
down out of the Ohio to New Orleans was named the
“Orleans,” and, if I remember right, was commanded by
Captain Ogden. This voyage, I believe, was performed in
the spring of 1810. It was, as you may suppose, looked
upon as the ze plus ultra of enterprise. Soon after, an-
other vessel came from Pittsburgh, and before many years
elapsed, to see a vessel so propelled had become a com-
mon occurrence. In 1826, after a lapse of time that
proved sufficient to double the population of the United
States of America, the navigation of the Mississippi had
so improved, both in respect to facility and quickness, that
I know no better way of giving you an idea of it than by
presenting you with an extract from a letter written by my
eldest son, which was taken from the books of N. Berthoud,
Esq., with whom he at that time resided.
“You ask me in your last letter for a list of the arrivals
and departures here. I give you an abstract from our
list of 1826, showing the number of boats which plied
each year, their tonnage, the trips they performed, and
the quantity of goods landed here from New Orleans and
intermediate places: —
454 AUDUBON
Boats. Tons. Trips. Tons.
1823, from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31, 42 7860 98 19,453
1824, “ “ Nov. 25, 36 6393 118 20,291
1825, “ “ & Aug. 15, 42 7484. 140 24,102
1826, “ “ Dec, 31, 51 9386 182 28,914
The amount for the present year will be much greater than
any of the above. The number of flatboats and keel-
boats is beyond calculation. The number of steamboats
above the Falls I cannot say much about, except that one
or two arrive at and leave Louisville every day. Their
passage from Cincinnati is commonly fourteen or sixteen
hours. The “Tecumseh,” a boat which runs between this
place and New Orleans, which is of 210 tons, arrived here
on the roth inst. in nine days, seven hours, from port to
port; and the “ Philadelphia,” of 300 tons, made the
passage in nine days, nine and a half hours, the computed
distance being 1650 miles. These are the quickest trips
made. There are now in operation on the waters west
of the Alleghany Mountains 140 or 150 boats. We had
last spring (1826) a very high freshet, which came four
and a half feet deep in the counting-room. The rise was
57 feet 3 inches perpendicular.”
All the steamboats of which this is an account did not
perform voyages to New Orleans only, but to all points
on the Mississippi, and other rivers which fall into it. I
am certain that since the above date the number has
increased, but to what extent I cannot at present say.
When steamboats first plied between Shippingport and
New Orleans, the cabin passage was a hundred dollars,
and a hundred and fifty dollars on the upward voyage.
In 1829, I went down to Natchez from Shippingport for
twenty-five dollars, and ascended from New Orleans on
board the “Philadelphia,” in the beginning of January,
1830, for sixty dollars, having taken two state-rooms for
my wife and myself. On that voyage we met with a tri-
fling accident, which protracted it to fourteen days, the
EPISODES 455
computed distance being, as mentioned above, 1650 miles,
although the real distance is probably less. I do not
remember to have spent a day without meeting with a
steamboat, and some days we met several. I might here
be tempted to give you a description of one of these
steamers of the western waters, but the picture having
been often drawn by abler hands, I shall desist.
KENTUCKY SPORTS
IT may not be amiss, kind reader, before I attempt to
give you some idea of the pleasures experienced by the
sportsmen of Kentucky, to introduce the subject with a
slight description of that State.
Kentucky was formerly attached to Virginia, but in
those days the Indians looked upon that portion of the
western wilds as their own, and abandoned the district
only when forced to do so, moving with disconsolate
hearts farther into the recesses of the unexplored forests.
Doubtless the richness of its soil, and the beauty of its
borders, situated as they are along one of the most beauti-
ful rivers in the world, contributed as much to attract the
Old Virginians as the desire, so generally experienced in
America, of spreading over the uncultivated tracts, and
bringing into cultivation lands that have for unknown ages
teemed with the wild luxuriance of untamed nature. The
conquest of Kentucky was not performed without many
difficulties. The warfare that long existed between the
intruders and the Redskins was sanguinary and protracted ;
but the former at length made good their footing, and
the latter drew off their shattered bands, dismayed by the
mental superiority and indomitable courage of the white
men.
This region was probably discovered by a daring hunter,
the renowned Daniel Boone. The richness of its soil, its
456 ‘ AUDUBON
magnificent forests, its numberless navigable streams, its
salt springs and licks, its saltpetre caves, its coal strata,
and the vast herds of Buffaloes and Deer that browsed on
its hills and amidst its charming valleys, afforded ample
inducements to the new settler, who pushed forward with
a spirit far above that of the most undaunted tribes which
for ages had been the sole possessors of the soil.
The Virginians thronged towards the Ohio. An axe, a
couple of horses, and a heavy rifle, with store of ammuni-
tion, were all that were considered necessary for the equip-
ments of the man, who, with his family, removed to the
new State, assured that, in that land of exuberant fertility,
he could not fail to provide amply for all his wants. To
have witnessed the industry and perseverance of these
emigrants must at once have proved the vigor of their
minds. Regardless of the fatigue attending every move-
ment which they made, they pushed through an unexplored
region of dark and tangled forests, guiding themselves by
the sun alone, and reposing at night on the bare ground.
Numberless streams they had to cross on rafts, with their
wives and children, their cattle and their luggage, often
drifting to considerable distances before they could effect
a landing on the opposite shores. Their cattle would
often stray amid the rice pasturage of these shores, and
occasion a delay of several days. To these troubles add
the constantly impending danger of being murdered, while
asleep in their encampments, by the prowling and ruthless
Indians; while they had before them a distance of hun-
dreds of miles to be traversed, before they could reach
certain places of rendezvous called Stations. To encounter
difficulties like these must have required energies of no
ordinary kind; and the reward which these veteran
settlers enjoy was doubtless well merited.
Some removed from the Atlantic shores to those of the
Ohio in more comfort and security. They had their wag-
ons, their negroes, and their families. Their way was
VICTOR GIFFORD AUDUBON, 1853.
EPISODES 457
cut through the woods by their own axemen, the day be-
fore their advance, and when night overtook them, the
hunters attached to the party came to the place pitched
upon for encamping, loaded with the dainties of which the
forest yielded an abundant supply, the blazing light of a
huge fire guiding their steps as they approached, and the
sounds of merriment that saluted their ears assuring them
that all was well. The flesh of the Buffalo, the Bear, and
the Deer soon hung, in large and delicious steaks, in front
of the embers; the cakes already prepared were deposited
in their proper places, and under the rich drippings of the
juicy roasts were quickly baked. The wagons contained
the bedding, and whilst the horses which had drawn them
were turned loose to feed on the luxuriant undergrowth of
the woods — some perhaps hoppled, but the greater num-
ber merely with a light bell hung to their neck, to guide
their owners in the morning to the spot where they might
have rambled —the party were enjoying themselves after
the fatigues of the day.
In anticipation all is pleasure; and these migrating
bands feasted in joyous sociality, unapprehensive of any
greater difficulties than those to be encountered in forcing
their way through the pathless woods to the land of abun-
dance; and although it took months to accomplish the
journey, and a skirmish now and then took place between
them and the Indians, who sometimes crept unperceived
into their very camp, still did the Virginians cheerfully
proceed towards the western horizon, until the various
groups all reached the Ohio, when, struck with the beauty
of that magnificent stream, they at once commenced the
task of clearing land, for the purpose of establishing a
permanent residence.
Others, perhaps encumbered with too much luggage,
preferred descending the stream. They prepared arks
pierced with port-holes, and glided on the gentle current,
more annoyed, however, than those who marched by land
458 AUDUBON
a
by the attacks of the Indians who watched their motions.
Many travellers have described these boats, formerly called
arks, but now named /latboats. But have they told you,
kind reader, that in those times a boat thirty or forty feet
in length, by ten or twelve in breadth, was considered a
stupendous fabric; that this boat contained men, women
and children, huddled together, with horses, cattle, hogs
and poultry for their companions, while the remaining
portion was crammed with vegetables and packages of
seeds? The roof or deck of the boat was not unlike a
farm-yard, being covered with hay, ploughs, carts, wagons,
and various agricultural implements, together with nu-
merous others, among which the spinning-wheels of the
matrons were conspicuous. Even the sides of the floating-
mass were loaded with the wheels of the different vehicles,
which themselves lay on the roof. Have they told you
that these boats contained the little all of each family of
venturous emigrants, who, fearful of being discovered by
the Indians under night moved in darkness, groping their
way from one part to another of these floating habitations,
denying themselves the comfort of fire or light, lest the
foe that watched them from the shore should rush upon
them and destroy them? Have they told you that this
‘boat was used, after the tedious voyage was ended, as the
first dwelling of these new settlers? No, kind reader, such
things have not been related to you before. The travellers
who have visited our country have had other objects in
view.
I shall not describe the many massacres which took
place among the different parties of white and red men,
as the former moved down the Ohio; because I have
never been very fond of battles, and indeed have always
wished that the world were more peaceably inclined than
it is; and shall merely add that, in one way or other,
Kentucky was wrested from the original owners of the
soil. Let us, therefore, turn our attention to the sports
EPISODES 459
still enjoyed in that now happy portion of the United
States.
We have individuals in Kentucky, kind reader, that
even there are considered wonderful adepts in the manage-
ment of the rifle. To drive a nail is a common feat, not
more thought off by the Kentuckians than to cut off a
Wild Turkey’s head, at a distance of a hundred yards.
Others will dark off Squirrels one after another, until satis-
fied with the number procured. Some, less intent on
destroying game, may be seen under night swuffing a
candle at the distance of fifty yards, off-hand, without ex-
tinguishing it. I have been told that some have proved
so expert and cool as to make choice of the eye of a foe
at a wonderful distance, boasting beforehand of the sure-
ness of their piece, which has afterwards been fully proved
when the enemy’s head has been examined !
Having resided some years in Kentucky, and having
more than once been witness of rifle sport, I shall present
you with the results of my observation, leaving you to
judge how far rifle-shooting is understood in that State.
Several individuals who conceive themselves expert in
the management of the gun are often seen to meet for the
purpose of displaying their skill, and betting a trifling
sum, put up a target, in the centre of which a common-
sized nail is hammered for about two-thirds of its length.
The marksmen make choice of what they consider a proper
distance, which may be forty paces. Each man cleans
the interior of his tube, which is called wiping it, places
a ball in the palm of his hand, pouring as much powder
from his horn upon it as will cover it. This quantity is
supposed to be sufficient for any distance within a hundred
yards. A shot which comes very close to the nail is
considered as that of an indifferent marksman; the bend-
ing of the nail is, of course, somewhat better; but nothing
less than hitting it right on the head is satisfactory. Well,
kind reader, one out of three shots generally hits the nail,
460 AUDUBON
and should the shooters amount to half a dozen, two nails
are frequently needed before each can have a shot. Those
who drive the nail have a further trial amongst themselves,
and the two best shots out of these generally settle the
affair, when all the sportsmen adjourn to some house, and
spend an hour or two in friendly intercourse, appointing,
before they part, a day for another trial. This is technically
termed ariving the natl.
Barking off Squirrels is delightful sport, and in my
opinion requires a greater degree of accuracy than any
other. I first witnessed this manner of procuring Squirrels
whilst near the town of Frankfort. The performer was
the celebrated Daniel Boone. We walked out together,
and followed the rocky margins of the Kentucky River,
until we reached a piece of flat land thickly covered with
black walnuts, oaks, and hickories. As the general mast
was a good one that year, Squirrels were seen gambolling
on every tree around us. My companion, a stout, hale,
and athletic man, dressed in a homespun hunting-shirt,
bare-legged and moccasined, carried a long and heavy rifle,
which, as he was loading it, he said had proved efficient
in all his former undertakings, and which he hoped would
not fail on this occasion, as he felt proud to show me his
skill. The gun was wiped, the powder measured, the ball
patched with six-hundred-thread linen, and the charge
sent home with a hickory rod. We moved nota step from
the place, for the Squirrels were so numerous that it was
unnecessary to go after them. Boone pointed to one of
these animals which had observed us, and was crouched
ona branch about fifty paces distant, and bade me mark
well the spot where the ball should hit. He raised his
piece gradually, until the dead (that being the name given
by the Kentuckians to the sight) of the barrel was brought
to a line with the spot which he intended to hit. The
whip-like report resounded through the woods and along
the hills, in repeated echoes. Judge of my surprise when
EPISODES 461
I perceived that the ball had hit the piece of the bark
immediately beneath the Squirrel, and shivered it into
splinters, the concussion produced by which had killed the
animal, and sent it whirling through the air, as if it had
been blown up by the explosion of a powder magazine.
Boone kept up his firing, and, before many hours had
elapsed, we had procured as many Squirrels as we wished ;
for you must know, kind reader, that to load a rifle re-
quires only a moment, and that if it is wiped once after
each shot, it will do duty for hours. Since that first in-
terview with our veteran Boone I have seen many other
individuals perform the same feat.
The sxufing of a candle with a ball, I first had an
opportunity of seeing near the banks of Green River, not
far from a large Pigeon-roost to which I had previously
made a visit. I heard many reports of guns during the
early part of a dark night, and knowing them to be those
of rifles, I went towards the spot to ascertain the cause.
On reaching the place, I was welcomed by a dozen of tall
stout men, who told me they were exercising, for the
purpose of enabling them to shoot under night at the
reflected light from the eyes of a Deer or Wolf, by torch-
light, of which I shall give you an account somewhere
else. A fire was blazing near, the smoke of which rose
curling among the thick foliage of the trees. At a distance
which rendered it scarcely distinguishable, stood a burning
candle, as if intended for an offering to the goddess of
night, but which in reality was only fifty yards from
the spot on which we all stood. One man was within a
few yards of it, to watch the effects of the shots, as well as
to light the candle should it chance to go out, or to
replace it should the shot cut it across. Each marksman
shot in his turn. Some never hit either the snuff or the
candle, and were congratulated with a loud laugh; while
others actually snuffed the candle without putting it out,
and were recompensed for their dexterity by numerous
462 AUDUBON
hurrahs. One of them, who was particularly expert, was
very fortunate, and snuffed the candle three times out of
seven, whilst all the other shots either put out the candle
or cut it immediately under the light.
Of the feats performed by the Kentuckians with the
rifle, I could say more than might be expedient on the
present occasion. In every thinly peopled portion of the
State, it is rare to meet one without a gun of that descrip-
tion, as well as a tomahawk. By way of recreation, they
often cut off a piece of the bark of a tree, make a target of
it, using a little powder wetted with water or sdliva, for the
bull’s-eye, and shoot into the mark all the balls they have
about them, picking them out of the wood again.
After what I have said, you may easily imagine with
what ease a Kentuckian procures game, or despatches an
enemy, more especially when I tell you that every one in
the State is accustomed to handle the rifle from the time
when he is first able to shoulder it until near the close of
his career. That murderous weapon is the means of pro-
curing them subsistence during all their wild and extensive
rambles, and is the source of their principal sports and
pleasures.
THE TRAVELLER AND THE POLE-CAT
ON a journey from Louisville to Henderson in Kentucky,
performed during very severe winter weather, in company
with a foreigner, the initials of whose name are D. T., my
companion, spying a beautiful animal, marked with black
and pale yellow, and having a long and bushy tail, ex-
claimed, ‘‘ Mr. Audubon, is not that a beautiful Squirrel?”
“Yes,” I answered, “and of a kind that will suffer you to
approach it and lay hold of it, if you are well gloved.”
Mr. D. T., dismounting, took up a dry stick, and advanced
towards the pretty animal, with his large cloak floating in
EPISODES 463
the breeze. I think I see him approach, and laying the
stick gently across the body of the animal, try to secure it;
and I can yet laugh almost as heartily as I did then, when
I plainly saw the discomfiture of the traveller. The Pole-
cat (for a true Pole-cat it was, the Mephitis americana of
zoologists) raised its fine bushy tail, and showered such a
discharge of the fluid given him by nature as a defence
that my friend, dismayed and infuriated, began to belabor
the poor animal. The swiftness and good management of
the Pole-cat, however, saved its bones, and as it made its
retreat towards its hole, it kept up at every step a continued
ejectment, which fully convinced the gentleman that the
pursuit of such Squirrels as these was at the best an un-
profitable employment.
This was not all, however. I could not suffer his ap-
proach, nor could my horse; it was with difficulty he
mounted his own; and we were forced to continue our
journey far asunder, and he much to leeward. Nor did the
matter end here. We could not proceed much farther that
night; as, in the first place, it was nearly dark when we
saw the Pole-cat, and as, in the second place, a heavy
snow-storm began, and almost impeded our progress. We
were forced to make for the first cabin we saw. Having
asked and obtained permission to rest for the night, we
dismounted and found ourselves amongst a crowd of men
and women who had met for the purpose of corn-shucking.
To a European who has not visited the western parts of
the United States, an explanation of this corn-shucking
may not be unacceptable. Corn (or you may prefer calling
it maize) is gathered in the husk, that is, by breaking each
large ear from the stem. These ears are first thrown into
heaps in the field, and afterwards carried in carts to the
barn, or, as in this instance, and in such portions of Ken-
tucky, to a shed made of the blades or long leaves that
hang in graceful curves from the stalk, and which, when
plucked and dried, are used instead of hay as food for
464 AUDUBON
horses and cattle. The husk consists of several thick leaves
rather longer than the corn-ear itself, and which secure it
from the weather. Itis quite a labor to detach these leaves
from the ear when thousands of bushels of the corn are
gathered and heaped together. For this purpose, however,
and in the western country more especially, several neigh-
boring families join alternately at each other’s plantations,
and assist in clearing away the husks, thus preparing the
maize for the market or for domestic use.
The good people whom we met with at this hospitable
house were on the point of going to the barn (the farmer
here being in rather good condition) to work until towards
the middle of the night. When we had stood the few stares
to which strangers must accustom themselves, no matter
where, even in a drawing-room, we approached the fire.
What a shock for the whole party! The scent of the Pole-
cat, that had been almost stifled on my companion’s vest-
ments by the cold of the evening air, now recovered its
primitive strength. The cloak was put out of the house,
but its owner could not well be used in the same way. The
company, however, took to their heels, and there only
remained a single black servant, who waited on us till
supper was served.
I felt vexed with myself, as I saw the good traveller dis-
pleased. But he had so much good-breeding as to treat
this important affair with great forbearance, and merely
said he was sorry for his want of knowledge in zodlogy.
The good gentleman, however, was not only deficient in
zoological lore, but, fresh as he was from Europe, felt more
than uneasy in this out-of-the-way house, and would have
proceeded towards my own home that night, had I not at
length succeeded in persuading him that he was in perfect
security.
We were shown to bed. As I was almost a stranger to
him, and he to me, he thought it a very awkward thing to
be obliged to lie in the same bed with me, but afterwards
EPISODES 465
spoke of it as a happy circumstance, and requested that I
should suffer him to be placed next the logs, thinking, no
doubt, that there he should run no risk.
We started by break of day, taking with us the frozen
cloak, and after passing a pleasant night in my own house,
we parted. Some years after, I met my Kentucky com-
panion in a far distant land, when he assured me that
whenever the sun shone on his cloak or it was brought
near a fire, the scent of the Pole-cat became so perceptible
that he at last gave it to a poor monk in Italy.
The animal commonly known in America by the name
of the Pole-cat is about a foot and a half in length, with a
large bushy tail, nearly as long as the body. The color is
generally brownish-black, with a large white patch on the
back of the head; but there are many varieties of coloring,
in some of which the broad white bands of the back are
very conspicuous. The Pole-cat burrows, or forms a sub-
terranean habitation among the roots of trees, or in rocky
places. It feeds on birds, young Hares, Rats, Mice, and
other animals, and commits great depredations on poultry.
The most remarkable peculiarity of this animal is the power,
alluded to above, of squirting for its defence a most nau-
seously scented fluid contained in a receptacle situated
under the tail, which it can do to a distance of several yards.
It does not, however, for this purpose sprinkle its tail with
the fluid, as some allege, unless when extremely harassed
by its enemies. The Pole-cat is frequently domesticated.
The removal of the glands prevents the secretion of the
nauseous fluid, and when thus improved, the animal be-
comes a great favorite, and performs the offices of the
common cat with great dexterity.
VOL. 11. — 30
466 AUDUBON
DEER HUNTING
THE different modes of Deer hunting are probably too
well understood, and too successfully practised in the
United States; for, notwithstanding the almost incredible
abundance of these beautiful animals in our forests and
prairies, such havoc is carried on amongst them that, in a
few centuries, they will probably be as scarce in America
as the Great Bustard now is in Britain.
We have three modes of hunting Deer, each varying
in some slight degree in the different States and districts.
The first is termed s¢i// hunting, and is by far the most
destructive. The second is called fire-light hunting, and
is next in its exterminating effects. The third, which may
be looked upon as a mere amusement, is named driving.
Although many Deer are destroyed by this latter method,
it is not by any means so pernicious as the others. These
methods I shall describe separately.
Stull hunting is followed as a kind of trade by most of
our frontier-men. To be practised with success it requires
great activity, an expert management of the rifle, and a
thorough knowledge of the forest, together with an inti-
mate acquaintance with the habits of the Deer, not only at
different seasons of the year, but also at every hour of the
day, as the hunters must be aware of the situations which
the game prefers, and in which it is most likely to be found
at any particular time. I might here present you witha
full account of the habits of our Deer, were it not my
intention to lay before you, at some future period, in
the form of a distinct work, the observations which I
have made on the various quadrupeds of our extensive
territories.
Illustrations of any kind require to be presented in the
best possible light. We shall therefore suppose that we
are now about to follow the “we hunter, as the “still
EPISODES 467
hunter” is also called, through the interior of the tangled
woods, across morasses, ravines, and such places, where
the game may prove more or less plentiful, even should
none be found there in the first instance. We shall allow
our hunter all the agility, patience, and care which his
occupation requires, and will march in his rear, as if we
were spies, watching all his motions,
His dress, you observe, consists of a leather hunting-
shirt, and a pair of trousers of the same material. His
feet are well moccasined; he wears a belt round his waist;
his heavy rifle is resting on his brawny shoulder; on one
side hangs his ball pouch, surmounted by the horn of an
ancient Buffalo, once the terror of the herd, but now con-
taining a pound of the best gunpowder; his butcher knife
is scabbarded in the same strap; and behind is a toma-
hawk, the handle of which has been thrust through his
girdle. He walks with so rapid a step that probably few
men, beside ourselves, that is, myself and my kind reader,
could follow him, unless for a short distance, in their
anxiety to witness his ruthless deeds. He stops, looks to
the flint of his gun, its priming, and the leather cover of
the lock, then glances his eye towards the sky, to judge
of the course most likely to lead him to the game.
The heavens are clear, the red glare of the morning
sun gleams through the lower branches of the lofty trees,
the dew hangs in pearly drops at the top of every leaf.
Already has the emerald hue of the foliage been converted
into the more glowing tints of our autumnal months. A
slight frost appears on the fence-rails of his little corn-
field. As he proceeds he looks to the dead foliage under
his feet, in search of the well-known traces of a buck’s
hoof. Now he bends towards the ground, on which some-
thing has attracted his attention. See! he alters his course,
increases his speed, and will soon reach the opposite hill.
Now he moves with caution, stops at almost every tree,
and peeps forward, as if already within shooting distance
468 AUDUBON
of the game. He advances again, but how very slowly!
He has reached the declivity, upon which the sun shines
in all its growing splendor; but mark him! he takes the
gun from his shoulder, has already thrown aside the
leathern cover of the lock, and is wiping the edge of the
flint with his tongue. Now he stands like a monumental
figure, perhaps measuring the distance that lies between
him and the game which he has in view. His rifle is
slowly raised, the report follows, and he runs. Let us run
also. Shall I speak to him, and ask him the result of this
first essay? Assuredly, reader, for I know him well.
“ Pray, friend, what have you killed?” for to say, ‘‘ What
have you shot at?” might imply the possibility of having
missed, and so might hurt his feelings. ‘“ Nothing but a
buck.” “And where is it?” ‘Oh, it hastaken a jump or
so, but I settled it, and will soon be with it. My ball
struck, and must have gone through his heart.” We ar-
rive at the spot where the animal had laid itself down
among the grass in a thicket of grape-vines, sumach, and
spruce bushes, where it intended to repose during the
middle of the day. The place is covered with blood, the
hoofs of the Deer have left deep prints in the ground, as
it bounced in the agonies produced by its wound; but the
blood that has gushed from its side discloses the course
which it has taken. We soon reach the spot. There lies
the buck, its tongue out, its eye dim, its breath exhausted;
it is dead. The hunter draws his knife, cuts the buck’s
throat almost asunder, and prepares to skin it. For this
purpose he hangs it upon the branch of a tree. When the
skin is removed, he cuts off the hams, and abandoning ‘the
rest of the carcass to the Wolves and Vultures, reloads his
gun, flings the venison, enclosed by the skin, upon his back,
secures it with a strap, and walks off in search of more
game, well knowing that, in the immediate neighborhood,
another at least is to be found.
Had the weather been warmer, the hunter would have
EPISODES 469
sought for the buck along the shadowy side of the hills.
Had it been the spring season, he would have led us
through some thick cane-brake, to the margin of some
remote lake, where you would have seen the Deer im-
mersed to his head in the water, to save his body from the
tormenting attacks of mosquitoes. Had winter overspread
the earth with a covering of snow, he would have searched
the low, damp woods, where the mosses and lichens, on
which at that period the Deer feeds, abound; the trees
being generally crusted with them for several feet from the
ground. At one time he might have marked the places
where the Deer clears the velvet from his horns by rubbing
them against the low stems of bushes, and where he fre-
quently scrapes the earth with his fore-hoofs; at another
he would have betaken himself to places where persim-
mons and crab-apples abound, as beneath these trees the
Deer frequently stops to munch their fruits. During early
spring our hunter would imitate the bleating of the doe,
and thus frequently obtain both her and the fawn, or, like
some tribes of Indians, he would prepare a Deer’s head,
placed on a stick, and creeping with it amongst the tall
grass of the prairies, would decoy Deer in reach of his rifle.
But, kind reader, you have seen enough of the stzl/ hunter.
Let it suffice for me to add that by the mode pursued by
him thousands of Deer are annually killed, many individ-
uals shooting these animals merely for the skin, not caring
for even the most valuable portions of the flesh, unless
hunger, or anear market, induce them to carry off the
hams.
The mode of destroying deer by /fire-light, or, as it is
named in some parts of the country, forest-light, never fails
to produce a very singular feeling in him who witnesses it
for the first time. There is something in it which at times
appears awfully grand. At other times a certain degree
of fear creeps over the mind, and even affects the physical
powers of him who follows the hunter through the thick
470 AUDUBON
undergrowth of our woods, having to leap his horse over
hundreds of huge fallen trunks, at one time impeded by
a straggling grape-vine crossing his path, at another
squeezed between two stubborn saplings, whilst their twigs
come smack in his face, as his companion has forced his
way through them. Again, he now and then runs the risk
of breaking his neck, by being suddenly pitched headlong
on the ground, as his horse sinks into a hole covered over
with moss. But I must proceed in a more regular manner,
and leave you, kind reader, to judge whether such a mode
of hunting would suit your taste or not.
The hunter has returned to his camp or his house, has
rested and eaten of his game. He waits impatiently for
the return of night. He has procured a quantity of pine
knots filled with resinous matter, and has an old frying-
pan, that, for aught I know to the contrary, may have
been used by his great-grandmother, in which the pine-
knots are to be placed when lighted. The horses stand
saddled at the door. The hunter comes forth, his rifle
slung on his shoulder, and springs upon one of them,
while his son, or a servant, mounts the other with the fry-
ing-pan and the pine-knots. Thus accoutred, they proceed
towards the interior of the forest. When they have arrived
at the spot where the hunt is to begin, they strike fire with
a flint and steel, and kindle the resinous wood. The person
who carries the fire moves in the direction judged to be
the best. The blaze illuminates the near objects, but the
distant parts seem involved in deepest obscurity. The
hunter who bears the gun keeps immediately in front, and
after a while discovers before him two feeble lights, which
are produced by the reflection of the pine-fire from the
eyes of an animal of the Deer or Wolf kind. The animal
stands quite still. To one unacquainted with this strange
mode of hunting, the glare from its eyes might bring to
his imagination some lost hobgoblin that had strayed from
its usual haunts. The hunter, however, nowise intimidated,
EPISODES 471
approaches the object, sometimes so near as to discern its
form, when, raising the rifle to his shoulder, he fires and
kills it on the spot. He then dismounts, secures the skin
and such portions of the flesh as he may want, in the man-
ner already described, and continues his search through
the greater part of the night, sometimes until the dawn of
day, shooting from five to ten Deer, should these animals
be plentiful. This kind of hunting proves fatal, not to the
Deer alone, but also sometimes to Wolves, and now and
then to a horse or cow, which may have straggled far’ into
the woods.
Now, kind reader, prepare to mount a generous, full-
blood Virginian hunter. See that your gun is in complete
order, for hark to the sound of the bugle and horn, and
the mingled clamor of a pack of harriers! Your friends
are waiting for you, under the shade of the wood, and we
must together go driving the light-footed Deer. The dis-
tance over which one has to travel is seldom felt when
pleasure is anticipated as the result; so galloping we go
pell-mell through the woods, to some well-known place
where many a fine buck has drooped its antlers under the
ball of the hunter’s rifle. The servants, who are called the
drivers, have already begun their search. Their voices are
heard exciting the hounds, and unless we put spurs to our
steeds, we may be too late at our stand, and thus lose the
first opportunity of shooting the fleeting game as it passes
by. Hark again! The dogs are in chase, the horn sounds
louder and more clearly. Hurry, hurry on, or we shall be
sadly behind!
Here we are at last! Dismount, fasten your horse to
this tree, place yourself by the side of that large yellow
poplar, and mind you do not shoot me! The Deer is fast
approaching; I will to my own stand, and he who shoots
him dead wins the prize.
The Deer is heard coming. It has inadvertently cracked
a dead stick with its hoof, and the dogs are now so near
472 AUDUBON
that it will pass in a moment. There it comes! How
beautifully it bounds over the ground! What a splendid
head of horns! How easy its attitudes, depending, as it
seems to do, on its own swiftness for safety! All is in vain,
however; a gun is fired, the animal plunges and doubles
with incomparable speed. There he goes! He passes
another stand, from which a second shot, better directed
than the first, brings him to the ground. The dogs, the
servants, the sportsmen are now rushing forward to the
spot. The hunter who has shot it is congratulated on his
skill or good luck, and the chase begins again in some
other part of the woods.
A few lines of explanation may be required to convey
a clear idea of this mode of hunting. Deer are fond of
following and retracing paths which they have formerly
pursued, and continue to do so even after they have been
shot at more than once. These tracks are discovered by
persons on horseback in the woods, or a Deer is observed
crossing a road, a field, or a small stream. When this has
been noticed twice, the deer may be shot from the places
called stands by the sportsman, who is stationed there, and
waits for it, a line of stands being generally formed so as
to cross the path which the game will follow. The person
who ascertains the usual pass of the game, or discovers the
parts where the animal feeds or lies down during the day,
gives intimation to his friends, who then prepare for the
chase. The servants start the Deer with the hounds, and
by good management generally succeed in making it run
the course that will soonest bring it to its death. But,
should the Deer be cautious, and take another course, the
hunters, mounted on swift horses, gallop through the woods
to intercept it, guided by the sound of the horns and the
cry of the dogs, and frequently succeed in shooting it. This
sport is extremely agreeable, and proves successful on
almost every occasion.
Hoping that this account will be sufficient to induce you,
EPISODES 473
kind reader, to go driving in our western and southern
woods, I now conclude my chapter on Deer Hunting by
informing you that the species referred to above is the
Virginia Deer, Cervus virginianus; and that, until I be able
to present you with a full account of its habits and history,
you may consult for information respecting it the excellent
“Fauna Americana” of my esteemed friend Dr. Harlan, of
Philadelphia.
THE ECCENTRIC NATURALIST
“WHAT an odd-looking fellow!” said I to myself, as,
while walking by the river, I observed a man landing from
a boat, with what I thought a bundle of dried clover on his
back; ‘‘ how the boatmen stare at him! sure he must be
an original!” He ascended with a rapid step, and ap-
proaching me asked if I could point out the house in
which Mr. Audubon resided. ‘“ Why, I am the man,” said
I, “ and will gladly lead you to my dwelling.”
The traveller rubbed his hands together with delight,
and drawing a letter from his pocket handed it to me
without any remark. I broke the seal and read as fol-
lows: ‘My dear Audubon, I send you an odd fish, which
you may prove to be undescribed, and hope you will do
so in your next letter. Believe, me always your friend
B.” With all the simplicity of a woodsman I asked the
bearer where the odd fish was, when M. de T. (for, kind
reader, the individual in my presence was none else than
that renowned naturalist) smiled, rubbed his hands, and
with the greatest good-humor said, “I am that odd fish
I presume, Mr. Audubon.” I felt confounded and blushed,
but contrived to stammer an apology.
We soon reached the house, when I presented my
learned guest to my family, and was ordering a servant to
go to the boat for M. de T.’s luggage, when he told me he
474 AUDUBON
had none but what he brought on his back. He then
loosened the pack of weeds which had first drawn my
attention. The ladies were a little surprised, but I checked
their critical glances for the moment. The naturalist
pulled off his shoes, and while engaged in drawing his
stockings, not up, but down, in order to cover the holes
about the heels, told us in the gayest mood imaginable
that he had walked a great distance, and had only taken a
passage on board the aré, to be put on this shore, and that
he was sorry his apparel had suffered so much from his
late journey. Clean clothes were offered, but he would
not accept them, and it was with evident reluctance that
he performed the lavations usual on such occasions before
he sat down to dinner.
At table, however, his agreeable conversation made us
all forget his singular appearance; and, indeed, it was only
as we strolled together in the garden that his attire struck
me as exceedingly remarkable. A long loose coat of
yellow nankeen, much the worse for the many rubs it had
got in its time, and stained all over with the juice of plants,
hung loosely about him like a sac. A waistcoat of the
same, with enormous pockets, and buttoned up to his chin,
reached below over a pair of tight pantaloons, the lower
parts of which were buttoned down to the ankles. His
beard was as long as I have known my own to be during
some of my peregrinations, and his lank black hair hung
loosely over his shoulders. His forehead was so broad
and prominent that any tyro in phrenology would instantly
have pronounced it the residence of a mind of strong
powers. His words impressed an assurance of rigid truth,
and as he directed the conversation to the study of the
natural sciences, I listened to him with as much delight as
Telemachus could have listened to Mentor. He had come
to visit me, he said, expressly for the purpose of seeing my
drawings, having been told that my representations of
birds were accompanied with those of shrubs and plants,
EPISODES 475
and he was desirous of knowing whether I might chance
to have in my collection any with which he was un-
acquainted. I observed some degree of impatience in his
request to be allowed at once to see what I had. We re-
turned to the house, when I opened my portfolios and
laid them before him.
He chanced to turn over the drawing of a plant quite
new to him. After inspecting it closely, he shook his
head, and told me no such plant existed in nature; for,
kind reader, M. de T., although a highly scientific man,
was suspicious to a fault, and believed such plants only to
exist as he had himself seen, or such as, having been dis-
covered of old, had, according to Father Malebranche’s
expression, acquired a “venerable beard.” I told my
guest that the plant was common in the immediate neigh-
borhood, and that I should show it him on the morrow.
“ And why to-morrow, Mr. Audubon? Let us go now.”
We did so, and on reaching the bank of the river I
pointed to the plant. M. de T., I thought, had gone mad.
He plucked the plants one after another, danced, hugged
me in his arms, and exultingly told me that he had got
not merely a new species, but a new genus. When we
returned home, the naturalist opened the bundle which he
had brought on his back, and took out a journal rendered
water-proof by means of a leather case, together with a
small parcel of linen, examined the new plant, and wrote
its description. The examination of my drawings then
went on. You would be pleased, kind reader, to hear his
criticisms, which were of the greatest advantage to me, for,
being well acquainted with books as well as with nature,
he was well fitted to give me advice.
It was summer, and the heat was so great that the
windows were all open. The light of the candles attracted
many insects, among which was observed a large species of
Scarabeus. I caught one, and, aware of his inclination
to believe only what he should himself see, I showed him
476 AUDUBON
the insect, and assured him it was so strong that it would
crawl on the table with the candlestick on its back. “I
should like to see the experiment made, Mr. Audubon,”
he replied. It was accordingly made, and the insect
moved about, dragging its burden so as to make the
candlestick change its position as if by magic, until coming
upon the edge of the table, it dropped on the floor, took
to wing, and made its escape.
When it waxed late, I showed him to the apartment
intended for him during his stay, and endeavored to render
him comfortable, leaving him writing materials in abun-
dance. I was indeed heartily glad to have a naturalist
under my roof. We had all retired to rest. Every person
I imagined was in deep slumber save myself, when of a
sudden I heard a great uproar in the naturalist’s room. I
got up, reached the place in a few moments, and opened
the door, when to my astonishment, I saw my guest run-
ning about the room naked, holding the handle of my
favorite violin, the body of which he had battered to
pieces against the walls in attempting to kill the bats
which had entered by the open window, probably at-
tracted by the insects flying around his candle. I stood
amazed, but he continued jumping and running round and
round, until he was fairly exhausted, when he begged me
to procure one of the animals for him, as he felt convinced
they belonged to “a new species.” Although I was con-
vinced of the contrary, I took up the bow of my demolished
Cremona, and administering a smart tap to each of the
bats as it came up, soon got specimens enough. The
war ended, I again bade him good-night, but could not
help observing the state of the room. It was strewed with
plants, which it would seem he had arranged into groups,
but which were now scattered about in confusion. “ Never
mind, Mr. Audubon,” quoth the eccentric naturalist,
“never mind, I’ll soon arrange them again. I have the
bats, and that’s enough.”
EPISODES 477
Some days passed, during which we followed our several
occupations. M. de T. searched the woods for plants, and
I for birds. He also followed the margins of the Ohio,
and picked up many shells, which he greatly extolled.
With us, I told him, they were gathered into heaps to
be converted into lime. “Lime! Mr. Audubon; why,
they are worth a guinea apiece in any part of Europe.”
One day, as I was returning from a hunt in a cane-brake,
he observed that I was wet and spattered with mud, and
desired me to show him the interior of one of these places,
which he said he had never visited.
The cane, kind reader, formerly grew spontaneously
over the greater portions of the State of Kentucky
and other western districts of our Union, as well as in
many farther south. Now, however, cultivation, the in-
troduction of cattle and horses, and other circumstances
connected with the progress of civilization, have greatly
altered the face of the country, and reduced the cane
within comparatively small limits. It attains a height of
from twelve to thirty feet, and a diameter of from one to
two inches, and grows in great patches resembling osier-
holts, in which occur plants of all sizes. The plants fre-
quently grow so close together, and in course of time
become so tangled, as to present an almost impenetrable
thicket. A portion of ground thus covered with canes is
called a cane-brake.
If you picture to yourself one of these cane-brakes grow-
ing beneath the gigantic trees that form our western forests,
interspersed with vines of many species, and numberless
plants of every description, you may conceive how difficult
it is for one to make his way through it, especially after a
heavy shower of rain or a fall of sleet, when the traveller,
in forcing his way through, shakes down upon himself
such quantities of water as soon reduce him to a state of
the utmost discomfort. The hunters often cut little paths
through the thickets with their knives, but the usual mode
478 AUDUBON
of passing through them is by pushing one’s self back-
ward, and wedging a way between the stems. To followa
Bear or a Cougar pursued by dogs through these brakes is
a task the accomplishment of which may be imagined, but
of the difficulties and dangers accompanying which I can-
not easily give an adequate representation.
The canes generally grow on the richest soil, and are
particularly plentiful along the margins of the great western
rivers. Many of our new settlers are fond of forming
farms in their immediate vicinity, as the plant is much
relished by all kinds of cattle and horses, which feed upon
it at all seasons, and again because these brakes are plenti-
fully stocked with game of various kinds. It sometimes
happens that the farmer clears a portion of the brake.
This is done by cutting the stems — which are fistular and
knotted, like those of other grasses — with a large knife or
cutlass. They are afterwards placed in heaps, and when
partially dried set fire to. The moisture contained be-
tween the joints is converted into steam, which causes the
cane to burst with a smart report, and when a whole mass
is crackling, the sounds resemble discharges of musketry.
Indeed, I have been told that travellers floating down the
rivers, and unacquainted with these circumstances, have
been induced to pull their oars with redoubled vigor,
apprehending the attack of a host of savages, ready to
scalp every one of the party.
A day being fixed, we left home after an early break-
fast, crossed the Ohio, and entered the woods. I had
determined that my companion should view a cane-brake
in all its perfection, and after leading him several miles in
a direct course, came upon as fine a sample as existed in
that part of the country. We entered, and for some time
proceeded without much difficulty, as I led the way, and
cut down the canes which were most likely to incommode
him. The difficulties gradually increased, so that we were
presently obliged to turn our backs to the foe, and push
EPISODES 479
ourselves on the best way we could. My companion
stopped here and there to pick up a plant and examine it.
After a while we chanced to come upon the top of a fallen
tree, which so obstructed our passage that we were on the
eve of going round, instead of thrusting ourselves through
amongst the branches, when, from its bed in the centre of
the tangled mass, forth rushed a Bear, with such force, and
snuffing the air in so frightful a manner, that M. de T.
became suddenly terror-struck, and, in his haste to escape,
made a desperate attempt to run, but fell amongst the
canes in such a way that he looked as if pinioned. Per-
ceiving him jammed in between the stalks, and thoroughly
frightened, I could not refrain from laughing at the ridi-
culous exhibition which he made. My gayety, however,
was not very pleasing to the savant, who called out for
aid, which was at once administered. Gladly would he
have retraced his steps, but I was desirous that he should
be able to describe a cane-brake, and enticed him to follow
me by telling him that our worst difficulties were nearly
over. We proceeded, for by this time the Bear was out
of hearing.
The way became more and more tangled. I saw with
delight that a heavy cloud, portentous of a thunder gust,
was approaching. In the mean time, I kept my companion
in such constant difficulties that he now panted, perspired,
and seemed almost overcome by fatigue. The thunder
began to rumble, and soon after a dash of heavy rain
drenched us in a few minutes. The withered particles of
leaves and bark attached to the canes stuck to our clothes,
We received many scratches from briers, and now and
then a switch from a nettle. M. de T. seriously inquired
if we should ever get alive out of the horrible situation in
which we were. I spoke of courage and patience, and told
him I hoped we should soon get to the margin of the
brake, which, however, I knew to be two miles distant. I
made him rest, and gave him a mouthful of brandy from
480 AUDUBON
my flask; after which, we proceeded on our slow and
painful march. He threw away all his plants, emptied his
pockets of the fungi, lichens, and mosses which he had
thrust into them, and finding himself much lightened, went
on for thirty or forty yards with a better grace. But, kind
reader, enough—lI led the naturalist first one way, then
another, until I had nearly lost myself in the brake, although
I was well acquainted with it, kept him tumbling and
crawling on his hands and knees until long after mid-day,
when we at length reached the edge of the river. I blew
my horn, and soon showed my companion a boat coming
to our rescue. We were ferried over, and on reaching the
house, found more agreeable occupation in replenishing
our empty coffers.
M. de T. remained with us for three weeks, and collected
multitudes of plants, shells, bats, and fishes, but never
again expressed a desire of visiting a cane-brake. We
were perfectly reconciled to his oddities, and, finding him
a most agreeable and intelligent companion, hoped that
his sojourn might be of long duration. But, one evening
when tea was prepared, and we expected him to join the
family, he was nowhere to be found. His grasses and
other valuables were all removed from his room. The
night was spent in searching for him in the neighborhood.
No eccentric naturalist could be discovered. Whether he
had perished in a swamp, or had been devoured by a Bear
or a Gar-fish, or had taken to his heels, were matters of
conjecture; nor was it until some weeks after that a letter
from him, thanking us for our attention, assured me of
his safety.
EPISODES 481
SCIPIO AND THE BEAR
THE Black Bear (Ursus americanus), however clumsy in
appearance, is active, vigilant, and persevering; possesses
great strength, courage, and address; and undergoes with
little injury the greatest fatigues and hardships in avoiding
the pursuit of the hunter. Like the Deer, it changes its
haunts with the seasons, and for the same reason, namely,
the desire of obtaining suitable food, or of retiring to the
more inaccessible parts, where it can pass the time in
security, unobserved by man, the most dangerous of its
enemies. During the spring months, it searches for food
in the low rich alluvial lands that border the rivers, or by
the margins of such inland lakes as, on account of their
small size, are called by us ponds. There it procures
abundance of succulent roots, and of the tender juicy
stems of plants, upon which it chiefly feeds at that season.
During the summer heat, it enters the gloomy swamps,
passes much of its time in wallowing in the mud, like a
hog, and contents itself with crayfish, roots, and nettles,
now and then, when hard pressed by hunger, seizing on a
young pig, or perhaps a sow, or even acalf. As soon as
the different kinds of berries which grow on the mountains
begin to ripen, the Bears betake themselves to the high
grounds, followed by their cubs. In such retired parts of
the country where there are no hilly grounds, it pays visits
to the maize fields, which it ravages for a while. After
this, the various species of nuts, acorns, grapes, and other
forest fruits, that form what in the western country is
called mast, attract its attention. The Bear is then seen
rambling singly through the woods to gather this harvest,
not forgetting meanwhile to rob every Bee-tree it meets
with, Bears being, as you well know, expert at this oper-
ation. You also know that they are good climbers, and
VOL. 11..—31
482 AUDUBON
may have been told, or at least may now be told, that the
Black Bear now and then hozses itself in the hollow trunks
of the larger trees for weeks together, when it is said to
suck its paws. You are probably not aware of a habit in
which it indulges, and which, being curious, must be inter-
esting to you.
At one season, the Black Bear may be seen examining
the lower part of the trunk of a tree for several minutes
with much attention, at the same time looking around, and
snuffing the air, to assure itself that no enemy is near. It
then raises itself on its hind-legs, approaches the trunk,
embraces it with its fore-legs, and scratches the bark with
its teeth and claws for several minutes in continuance. Its
jaws clash against each other, until a mass of foam runs
down on both sides of the mouth. After this it con-
tinues its rambles.
In various portions of our country, many of our woods-
men and hunters who have seen the Bear performing the
singular operation just described, imagine that it does so
for the purpose of leaving behind it an indication of its
size and power. They measure the height at which the
scratches are made, and in this manner can, in fact, form
an estimate of the magnitude of the individual. My own
opinion, however, is different. It seems to me that the
Bear scratches the trees, not for the purpose of shewing
its size or its strength, but merely for that of sharpening
its teeth and claws, to enable it better to encounter a rival
of its own species during the amatory season. The Wild
Boar of Europe clashes its tusks and scrapes the earth with
its feet, and the Deer rubs its antlers against the lower
part of the stems of young trees or bushes, for the same
purpose. '
Being one night sleeping in the house of a friend, I
was wakened by a negro servant bearing a light, who gave
me a note, which he said his master had just received.
I ran my eye over the paper, and found it to be a com-
EPISODES 483
munication from a neighbor, requesting my friend and
myself to join him as soon as possible, and assist in kill-
ing some Bears at that moment engaged in destroying his
corn. Iwas not long in dressing, you may be assured,
and, on entering the parlor, found my friend equipped
and only waiting for some bullets, which a negro was
employed in casting. The overseer’s horn was heard
calling up the negroes from their different cabins. Some
were already engaged in saddling our horses, whilst others
were gathering all the cur-dogs of the plantation. All
was bustle. Before half an hour had elapsed, four stout
negro men, armed with axes and knives, and mounted on
strong nags of their own (for you must know, kind reader,
that many of our slaves rear horses, cattle, pigs, and poul-
try, which are exclusively their own property), were fol-
lowing us at a round gallop through the woods, as we
made directly for the neighbor’s plantation, a little more
than five miles off.
The night was none of the most favorable, a drizzling
rain rendering the atmosphere thick and rather sultry;
but as we were well acquainted with the course, we soon
reached the house, where the owner was waiting our
arrival, There were now three of us armed with guns,
half a dozen servants, and a good pack of dogs of all
kinds. We jogged on towards the detached field in which
the Bears were at work. The owner told us that for some
days several of these animals had visited his corn, and
that a negro who was sent every afternoon to see at what
part of the enclosure they entered, had assured him there
were at least five in the field that night. A plan of attack
was formed: the bars at the usual gap of the fence were
to be put down without noise; the men and dogs were
to divide, and afterwards proceed so as to surround the
Bears, when, at the sounding of our horns, every one was
to charge towards the centre of the field, and shout as
loudly as possible, which it was judged would so intimi-
484 AUDUBON
date the animals as to induce them to seek refuge upon
the dead trees with which the field was still partially
covered.
The plan succeeded. The horns sounded, the horses
galloped forward, the men shouted, the dogs barked and
howled. The shrieks of the negroes were enough to
frighten a legion of Bears, and those in the field took to
flight, so that by the time we reached the centre they
were heard hurrying towards the tops of the trees. Fires
were immediately lighted by the negroes. The drizzling
rain had ceased, the sky cleared, and the glare of the
crackling fires proved of great assistance to us. The
Bears had been so terrified that we now saw several of
them crouched at the junction of the larger boughs with
the trunks. Two were immediately shot down. They
were cubs of no great size, and being already half dead,
we left them to the dogs, which quickly despatched
them.
We were anxious to procure as much sport as possible,
and having observed one of the Bears, which from its size
we conjectured to be the mother, ordered the negroes to
cut down the tree on which it was perched, when it was
intended the dogs should have a tug with it, while we
should support them, and assist in preventing the Bear
from escaping by wounding it in one of the hind-legs.
The surrounding woods now echoed to the blows of the
axemen. The tree was large and tough, having been
girded more than two years, and the operation of fell-
ing it seemed extremely tedious. However, it began to
vibrate at each stroke; a few inches alone now supported
it; and in a short time it came crashing to the ground, in
so awful a manner that Bruin must doubtless have felt the
shock as severe as we should feel a shake of the globe
produced by the sudden collision of a comet.
The dogs rushed to the charge, and harassed the Bear
on all sides. We had remounted, and now surrounded
EPISODES 485
the poor animal. As its life depended upon its courage
and strength, it exercised both in the most energetic man-
ner. Now and then it seized a dog, and killed him by a
single stroke. At another time, a well administered blow
of one of its fore-legs sent an assailant off yelping so
piteously that he might be looked upon as hors de combat.
A cur had daringly ventured to seize the Bear by the
snout, and was seen hanging to it, covered with blood,
whilst a dozen or more scrambled over its back. Now
and then the infuriated animal was seen to cast a re-
vengeful glance at some of the party, and we had already
determined to despatch it, when, to our astonishment, it
suddenly shook off all the dogs, and, before we could fire,
charged upon one of the negroes, who was mounted on a
pied horse. The Bear seized the steed with teeth and
claws, and clung to its breast. Theterrified horse snorted
and plunged. The rider, an athletic young man, and a
capital horseman, kept his seat, although only saddled on
a sheep’s-skin tightly girthed, and requested his master
not to fire at the Bear. Notwithstanding his coolness
and courage, our anxiety for his safety was raised to the
highest pitch, especially when in a mgment we saw rider
and horse come to the ground together; but we were
instantly relieved on witnessing the masterly manner in
which Scipio despatched his adversary, by laying open
his skull with a single well-directed blow of his axe,
when a deep growl announced the death of the Bear, and
the valorous negro sprung to his feet unhurt.
Day dawned, and we renewed our search. Two of the
remaining Bears were soon discovered, lodged in a tree
about a hundred yards from the spot where the last one
had been overpowered. On approaching them in a circle,
we found that they manifested no desire to come down,
and we resolved to try smoking. We surrounded the tree
with a pile of brushwood and large branches. The flames
ascended and caught hold of the dry bark. At length the
486 AUDUBON
tree assumed the appearance of a pillar of flame. The
Bears mounted to the top branches. When they had
reached the uppermost, they were seen to totter, and soon
after, the branch cracking and snapping across, they came
to the ground, bringing with them a mass of broken
twigs. They were cubs, and the dogs soon worried them
to death.
The party returned to the house in triumph. Scipio’s
horse, being severely wounded, was let loose in the field,
to repair his strength by eating the corn. A cart was
afterwards sent for the game. But before we had left the
field, the horses, dogs, and Bears, together with the fires,
had destroyed more corn within a few hours than the poor
Bear and her cubs had during the whole of their visits.
A KENTUCKY BARBECUE
BEARGRASS CREEK, which is one of the many beautiful
streams of the highly cultivated and happy State of Ken-
tucky, meanders ythrough a deeply shaded growth of
majestic beechwoods, in which are interspersed various
species of walnut, oak, elm, ash, and other trees, extend-
ing on either side of its course. The spot on which I wit-
nessed the celebration of an anniversary of the glorious
' proclamation of our independence is situated on its banks
near the city of Louisville. The woods spread their dense
tufts towards the shores of the fair Ohio on the west, and
over the gently rising grounds to the south and east.
Every open spot forming a plantation was smiling in the
luxuriance of a summer harvest. The farmer seemed to
stand in admiration of the spectacle; the trees of his
orchards bowed their branches, as if anxious to restore to
their mother earth the fruit with which they were laden;
the flocks leisurely ruminated as they lay on their grassy
JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON, 1853.
EPISODES 487
beds; and the genial warmth of the season seemed in-
clined to favor their repose.
The free, single-hearted Kentuckian, bold, erect, and
proud of his Virginian descent, had, as usual, made arrange-
ments for celebrating the day of his country’s independence,
The whole neighborhood joined with one consent. No
personal invitation was required where every one was wel-
comed by his neighbor, and from the governor to the
guider of the plough, all met with light hearts and merry
faces.
It was indeed a beautiful day; the bright sun rode in
the clear blue heavens; the gentle breezes wafted around
the odors of the gorgeous flowers; the little birds sang
their sweetest songs in the woods, and the fluttering insects
danced in the sunbeams. Columbia’s sons and daughters
seemed to have grown younger that morning. For a whole
week or more many servants and some masters had been
busily engaged in clearing an area. The undergrowth had
been carefully cut down, the low boughs lopped off, and
the grass alone, verdant and gay, remained to carpet the syl-
van pavilion. Now the wagons were seen slowly moving
along under their load of provisions which had been pre-
pared for the common benefit. Each denizen had freely
given his ox, his ham, his venison, his Turkeys and other
fowls. Here were to be seen flagons of every beverage used
in the country; ‘‘la belle riviere” had opened her finny
stores, the melons of all sorts, peaches, plums, and pears,
would have sufficed to stock a market. In a word, Ken-
tucky, the land of abundance, had supplied a feast for her
children. A purling stream gave its waters freely, while
the grateful breezes cooled the air. Columns of smoke
from the newly kindled fires rose above the trees; fifty
cooks or more moved to and fro as they plied their trade;
waiters of all qualities were disposing the dishes, the glasses
and the punch-bowls, amid vases filled with rich wines.
“Old Monongahela” filled many a barrel for the crowd.
488 AUDUBON
And now the roasting viands perfume the air, and all ap-
pearances conspire to predict the speedy commencement
of a banquet such as may suit the vigorous appetite of
American woodsmen. Every steward is at his post ready
to receive the joyous groups that at this moment begin to
emerge from the dark recesses of the woods.
Each comely fair one, clad in pure white, is seen advanc-
ing under the protection of her sturdy lover, the neighing
of their prancing steeds proclaiming how proud they are of
their burden. The youthful riders leap from their seats,
and the horses are speedily secured by twisting their
bridles round a branch. As the youth of Kentucky lightly
and gayly advanced towards the barbecue, they resembled a
procession of nymphs and disguised divinities. Fathers and
mothers smiled upon them as they followed the brilliant cor-
tége. In a short time the ground was alive with merriment.
A great wooden cannon bound with iron hoops was now
crammed with home-made powder ; fire was conveyed to
it by means of a train, and as the explosion burst forth,
thousands of hearty huzzas mingled with its echoes. From
the most learned a good oration fell in proud and gladden-
ing words on every ear, and although it probably did not
equal the eloquence of a Clay, an Everett, a Webster, or
a Preston, it served to remind every Kentuckian present of
the glorious name, the patriotism, the courage, and the
virtue of our immortal Washington. Fifes and drums
sounded the march which had ever led him to glory; and
as they changed to our celebrated “ Yankee-Doodle,” the
air again rang with acclamations.
Now the stewards invited the assembled throngs to the
feast. The fair led the van, and were first placed around
the tables, which groaned under the profusion of the best
productions of the country that had been heaped upon
them. On each lovely nymph attended her gay beau, who
in her chance or sidelong glances ever watched an oppor-
tunity of reading his happiness. How the viands dimin-
EPISODES 489
ished under the action of so many agents of destruction, I
need not say, nor is it necessary that you should listen to
the long recital. Many a national toast was offered and
accepted, many speeches were delivered, and many essayed
in amicable reply. The ladies then retired to booths that
had been erected at a little distance, to which they were
conducted by their partners, who returned to the table, and
having thus cleared for action, recommenced a series of
hearty rounds. However, as Kentuckians are neither slow
nor long at their meals, all were in a few minutes replen-
ished, and after a few more draughts from the bowl, they
rejoined the ladies and prepared for the dance.
Double lines of a hundred fair ones extended along the
ground in the most shady part of the woods, while here
and there smaller groups awaited the merry trills of reels
and cotillons. A burst of music from violins, clarionets,
and bugles gave the welcome notice, and presently the
whole assemblage seemed to be gracefully moving through
the air. The “hunting-shirts” now joined in the dance,
their fringed skirts keeping time with the gowns of the
ladies, and the married people of either sex stepped in and
mixed with their children. Every countenance beamed
with joy, every heart leaped with gladness; no pride, no
pomp, no affectation were there; their spirits brightened
as they continued their exhilarating exercise, and care and
sorrow were flung to the winds. During each interval of
rest refreshments of all sorts were handed round, and while
the fair one cooled her lips with the grateful juice of the
melon, the hunter of Kentucky quenched his thirst with
ample draughts of well-tempered punch.
I know, reader, that had you been with me on that day
you would have richly enjoyed the sight of this national
fete champétre. You would have listened with pleasure to
the ingenuous tale of the lover, the wise talk of the elder
on the affairs of the State, the accounts of improvement in
stock and utensils, and the hopes of continued prosperity
490 AUDUBON
to the country at large, and to Kentucky in particular.
You would have been pleased to see those who did not
join in the dance shooting at distant marks with their
heavy rifles, or watched how they showed off the superior
speed of their high bred “Old Virginia” horses, while
others recounted their hunting exploits, and at intervals
made the woods ring with their bursts of laughter. With
me the time sped like an arrow in its flight, and although
more than twenty years have elapsed since I joined a Ken-
tucky barbecue, my spirit is refreshed every Fourth of
July by the recollection of that day’s merriment.
But now the sun has declined, and the shades of evening
creep over the scene. Large fires are lighted in the woods,
casting the long shadows of the live columns far along the
trodden ground, and flaring on the happy groups loath to
separate. In the still, clear sky, begin to sparkle the dis-
tant lamps of heaven. One might have thought that Na-
ture herself smiled on the joy of her children. Supper now
appeared on the tables, and after all had again refreshed
themselves, preparations were made for departure. The
lover hurried for the steed of his fair one, the hunter seized
the arm of his friend, families gathered into loving groups,
and all returned in peace to their happy homes.
And now, reader, allow me also to take my leave, and
wish you good-night, trusting that when I again appear
with another volume, you will be ready to welcome me
with a cordial greeting.
A RACCOON HUNT IN KENTUCKY
Tue Raccoon, which is a cunning and crafty animal, is
found in all our woods, so that its name is familiar to
every child in the Union. The propensity which it
evinces to capture all kinds of birds accessible to it in its
! The last Episode in vol. ii. of the “Ornithological Biographies.”
EPISODES 491
nightly prowlings, for the purpose of feasting on their
flesh, induces me to endeavor to afford you some idea of
the pleasure which our western hunters feel in procuring
it. With your leave, then, reader, I will take you toa
“Coon Hunt.”
A few hours ago the sun went down far beyond the
“far west.” The woodland choristers have disappeared,
the matron has cradled her babe, and betaken herself to
the spinning-wheel; the woodsman, his sons, and “the
stranger,” are chatting before a blazing fire, making wise
reflections on past events, and anticipating those that are
to come. Autumn, sallow and sad, prepares to bow her
head to the keen blast of approaching winter; the corn,
though still on its stalk, has lost its blades; the wood-
pile is as large as the woodsman’s cabin; the nights have
become chill, and each new morn has effected a gradual
change in the dews, which now crust the withered herb-
age with a coat of glittering white. The sky is still
cloudless; a thousand twinkling stars reflect their light
from the tranquil waters; all is silent and calm in the
forest, save the nightly prowlers that roam in its recesses.
In the cheerful cabin all is happiness; its inmates gener-
ously strive to contribute to the comfort of the stranger
who has chanced to visit them; and, as Raccoons are abun-
dant in the neighborhood, they propose a hunt. The
offer is gladly accepted. The industrious woman leaves
her wheel, for she has listened to her husband’s talk;
now she approaches the fire, takes up the board shovel,
stirs the embers, produces a basket filled with sweet pota-
toes, arranges its contents side by side in front of the
hearth, and covers them with hot ashes and glowing coals.
All this she does because she “guesses” that hungry
stomachs will be calling for food when the sport is over.
Ah! reader, what “homely joys” there are in such
scenes, and how you would enjoy them! The rich may
produce a better, or a more sumptuous meal, but his feel-
492 AUDUBON
ings can never be like those of the poor woodsman. Poor,
I ought not to call him, for nature and industry bounti-
fully supply all his wants; the woods and rivers produce
his chief dainties, and his toils are his pleasures.
Now mark him! the bold Kentuckian is on his feet;
his sons and the stranger prepare for the march. Horns
and rifles are in requisition. The good man opens the
wooden-hinged door, and sends forth a blast loud enough
to scare a Wolf. The Raccoons scamper away from the
corn-fields, break through the fences, and hie to the
woods. The hunter has taken an axe from the wood-pile,
and returning, assures us that the night is fine, and that
we shall have rare sport. He blows through his rifle to
ascertain that it is clear, examines his flint, and thrusts
a feather into the touch-hole. Toa leathern bag swung
at his side is attached a powder-horn; his sheath-knife is
there also; below hangs a narrow strip of homespun
linen. He takes from his bag a bullet, pulls with his
teeth the wooden stopper from his powder-horn, lays the
ball on one hand, and with the other pours the powder
upon it until it is just overtopped. Raising the horn to
his mouth, he again closes it with the stopper, and re-
stores it to its place. He introduces the powder into the
tube; springs the box of his gun, greases the “patch”
over with some melted tallow, or damps it; then places
it on the honey-combed muzzle of his piece. The bullet
is placed on the patch over the bore, and pressed with the
handle of the knife, which now trims the edge of the
linen. The elastic hickory rod, held with both hands,
smoothly pushes the ball to its bed; once, twice, thrice has
it rebounded. The rifle leaps as it were into the hunter’s
arms, the feather is drawn from the touch-hole, the powder
fills the pan, which is closed. “Now I’m ready,” cries
the woodsman. His companions say the same. Hardly
more than a minute has elapsed. I wish, reader, you had
seen this fine fellow — but hark! the dogs are barking.
EPISODES 493
All is now bustle within and without; a servant lights
a torch, and off we march to the woods. ‘Don’t mind
the boys, my dear sir,” says the woodsman, “follow me
close, for the ground is covered with logs, and the grape-
vines hang everywhere across. Toby, hold up the light,
man, or we’ll never see the gullies. Trail your gun,
sir, as General Clark used to say—not so, but this way
—that’s it; now then, no danger, you see; no fear of
snakes, poor things! They are stiff enough, I’ll be
bound. The dogs have treed one. Toby, you old fool,
why don’t you turn to the right ?— not so much; there —
go ahead, and give us light. What’sthat? Who’s there?
Ah, you young rascals! you’ve played us a trick, have
you? It’s all well enough, but now just keep behind, or
I’11—” And, in fact, the boys, with eyes good enough
to see in the dark, although not quite so well as an Owl’s,
had cut directly across the dogs, which had surprised a
Raccoon on the ground, and bayed it until the lads knocked
itonthe head. “Seek him, boys!” criedthehunter. The
dogs, putting their noses to the ground, pushed off at a
good rate. ‘Master, they ‘re making for the creek,” says
old Toby. On towards it therefore we push. What
woods, to be sure! No gentleman’s park this, I assure
you, reader. We are now in a low flat; the soil thinly
covers the hard clay; nothing but beech-trees hereabouts,
unless now and then a maple. Hang the limbs! say I—
hang the supple-jacks too —here I am, fast by the neck;
cut it with your knife. My knee has had a tremendous
rub against a log; now my foot is jammed between two
roots; and here I stick. “Toby, come back; don’t you
know the stranger is not up to the woods? Halloo, Toby,
Toby!” There I stood perfectly shackled, the hunter
laughing heartily, and the lads glad of an opportunity of
slipping off. Toby arrived, and held the torch near the
ground, on which the hunter, cutting one of the roots with
his hatchet, set me free. “Are you hurt, sir?” —“ No,
494 AUDUBON
not in the least.” Off we start again. The boys had got
up with the dogs, which were baying a Raccoon in a small
puddle. We soon joined them with the light. ‘ Now,
stranger, watch and see!” The Raccoon was all but
swimming, and yet had hold of the bottom of the pool
with his feet. The glare of the lighted torch was doubt-
less distressing to him; his coat was ruffled, and his
rounded tail seemed thrice its ordinary size; his eyes
shone like emeralds; with foaming jaws he watched the
dogs, ready to seize each by the snout if it came within
reach. They kept him busy for several minutes; the
water became thick with mud; his coat now hung drip-
ping, and his draggled tail lay floating on the surface.
His guttural growlings, in place of intimidating his as-
sailants excited them the more; and they very uncere-
moniously closed upon him, curs as they were, and
without the breeding of gentle dogs. One seized him by
the rump, and tugged, but was soon forced to let go; an-
other stuck to his side, but soon taking a better directed
bite of his muzzle than another dog had just done of his
tail, Coon made him yelp; and pitiful were the cries of
luckless Tyke. The Raccoon would not let go, but in the
mean time the other dogs seized him fast, and worried him
to death, yet to the last he held by his antagonist’s snout.
Knocked on the head by an axe, he lay gasping his last
breath, and the heaving of his chest was painful to see.
The hunters stood gazing at him in the pool, while all
around was by the flare of the torch rendered trebly dark
and dismal. It was a good scene for a skilful painter.
We had now two Coons, whose furs were worth two
quarters of a dollar, and whose bodies, which I must not
forget, as Toby informed us, were worth two more.
“What now?” ITasked. ‘What now?” quoth the father;
“why, go after more, to be sure.” So we did, the dogs
ahead, and I far behind. Ina short time the curs treed
another, and when we came up, we found them seated on
EPISODES ! 495
their haunches, looking upwards, and barking. The
hunters now employed their axes, and sent the chips
about at such a rate that one of them coming in contact
with my cheek, marked it so that a week after several of
my friends asked me where, in the name of wonder, I had
got that black eye. At length ‘the tree began to crack,
and slowly leaning to one side, the heavy mass swung
rustling through the air, and fell to the earth with a
crash. It was not one Coon that was surprised here, but
three—ay, three of them, one of which, more crafty
than the rest, leaped fairly from the main top while the
tree was staggering. The other two stuck to the hollow
of a branch, from which they were soon driven by one of
the dogs. Tyke and Lion, having nosed the cunning old
one, scampered after him, not mouthing like the well-
trained hounds of our southern Fox-hunters, but yelling
like furies. The hunter’s sons attacked those on the tree,
while the woodsman and I, preceded by Toby, made after
the other; and busy enough we all were. Our animal
was of extraordinary size, and after some parley, a rifle-
ball was sent through his brain. He reeled once only;
next moment he lay dead. The rest were despatched by
the axe and the club, for a shot in those days was too val-
uable to be spent when it could be saved. It could pro-
cure a Deer, and therefore was worth more than a Coon’s
skin.
Now, look at the moon! how full and clear has she
risen on the Raccoon hunters! Now is the time for sport!
Onward we go, one following the long shadow of his pre-
cursor. The twigs are no impediment, and we move ata
brisker pace, as we return to the hills. What a hue and
cry! here are the dogs. Overhead and all around, on the
forks of each tree, the hunter’s keen eye searches for
something round, which is likely to prove a coiled-up
Raccoon. There’s one! Between me and the moon I
spied the cunning thing crouched in silence. After tak-
496 AUDUBON
ing aim, I raise my barrel ever so little, the trigger is
pressed; down falls the Raccoon to the ground. Another
and another are on the same tree. Off goes a bullet,
then a second; and we secure the prey. “Let us go
home, stranger,” says the woodsman; and contented with
our sport, towards his cabin we trudge. On arriving
there, we find a cheerful fire. Toby stays without, pre-
pares the game, stretches the skins on a frame of cane,
and washes the bodies. The table is already set; the
cake and the potatoes are all well done; four bowls of
buttermilk are ranged in order, and now the hunters
fall to.
The Raccoon is a cunning animal, and makes a pleasant
pet. Monkey-like, it is quite dexterous in the use of its
fore-feet, and it will amble after its master, in the man-
ner of a Bear, and even follow him intothe street. It is
fond of eggs, but prefers them raw, and it matters not
whether it be morning, noon, or night when it finds a
dozen in the pheasant’s nest, or one placed in your pocket
to please him. He knows the habits of mussels better
than most conchologists. Being an expert climber he
ascends to the hole of the Woodpecker, and devours the
young birds. He knows, too, how to watch the soft-
shelled Turtle’s crawl, and, better still, how to dig up her
eggs. Now, by the edge of the pond, grimalkin-like,
he lies seemingly asleep, until the Summer-Duck comes
within reach. No negro knows better when the corn is
juicy and pleasant to eat; and although Squirrels and
Woodpeckers know this too, the Raccoon is found in the
corn-field longer in the season than any of them, the havoc
he commits there amounting toatithe. His fur is good
in winter, and many think his flesh good also; but for my
part, I prefer a live Raccoon to a dead one; and should
find more pleasure in hunting one than in eating him.
EPISODES 497
PITTING OF WOLVES
THERE seems to be a universal feeling of hostility among
men against the Wolf, whose. strength, agility, and cun-
ning, which latter is scarcely inferior to that of his rela-
tive, Master Reynard, tend to render him an object of
hatred, especially to the husbandman, on whose flocks he
is ever apt to commit depredations. In America, where
this animal was formerly abundant, and in many parts of
which it still occurs in considerable numbers, it is not
more mercifully dealt with than in other parts of the
world. Traps and snares of ali sorts are set for catching
it, while dogs and horses are trained for hunting the Fox.
The Wolf, however, unless in some way injured, being
more powerful and perhaps better winded than the Fox,
is rarely pursued with hounds or any other dogs in open
chase; but as his depredations are at times extensive and
highly injurious to the farmer, the greatest exertions have
been used to exterminate his race. Few instances have
occurred among us of any attack made by Wolves on man,
and only one has come under my own notice.
Two young negroes who resided near the banks of the
Ohio, in the lower part of the state of Kentucky, about
twenty-three years ago, had sweethearts living on a plan-
tation ten miles distant. After the labors of the day
were over, they frequently visited the fair ladies of their
choice, the nearest way to whose dwelling lay directly
across a great cane-brake. As to the lover every moment
is precious, they usually took this route to save time.
Winter had commenced, cold, dark, and forbidding, and
after sunset scarcely a glimpse of light or glow of warmth,
one might imagine, could be found in that dreary swamp,
excepting in the eyes and bosoms of the ardent youths, or
the hungry Wolves that prowled about. The snow cov-
ered the earth, and rendered them more easy to be scented
VOL. II. — 82
498 AUDUBON
from a distance by the famished beasts. Prudent in a cer-
tain degree, the young lovers carried their axes on their
shoulders, and walked as briskly as the narrow path would
allow. Some transient glimpses of light now and then
met their eyes, but so faint were they that they believed
them to be caused by their faces coming in contact with
the slender reeds covered with snow. Suddenly, however,
a long and frightful howl burst upon them, and they in-
stantly knew that it proceeded from a troop of hungry,
perhaps desperate Wolves. They stopped, and putting
themselves in an attitude of defence, awaited the result.
All around was dark, save a few feet of snow, and the
silence of night was dismal. Nothing could be done to
better their situation, and after standing a few minutes
in expectation of an attack, they judged it best to resume
their march; but no sooner had they replaced their axes
on their shoulders and begun to move, than the foremost
found himself assailed by several foes. His legs were
held fast as if pressed by a powerful screw, and the tor-
ture inflicted by the fangs of the ravenous animal was for
a moment excruciating. Several Wolves in the mean-
time sprung upon the breast of the other negro, and
dragged him to the ground. Both struggled manfully
against their foes; but in a short time one of them ceased
to move, and the other, reduced in strength, and perhaps
despairing of maintaining his ground, still more of aiding
his unfortunate companion, sprung to the branch of a tree,
and speedily gained a place of safety near the top. The
next morning the mangled remains of his comrade lay
scattered around on the snow, which was stained with
blood. Three dead Wolves lay around, but the rest of
the pack had disappeared, and Scipio, sliding to the
ground, took up the axes, and made the best of his way
home, to relate the sad adventure.
About two years after this occurrence, as I was travel-
ling between Henderson and Vincennes, I chanced to stop
EPISODES 499
for the night at a farmer’s house by the side of the road.
After putting up my horse and refreshing myself, I en-
tered into conversation with mine host, who asked if I
should like to pay a visit to the Wolf-pits, which were
about half a mile distant. Glad of the opportunity I
accompanied him across the fields to the neighborhood of
a deep wood, and soon saw the engines of destruction.
He had three pits, within a few hundred yards of each
other. They were about eight feet deep and broader at
bottom, so as to render it impossible for the most active
animal to escape from them. The aperture was covered
with a revolving platform of twigs attached to a central
axis. On either surface of the platform was fastened a
large piece of putrid venison, with other matters by no
means pleasing to my olfactory nerves, although no doubt
attractive to the Wolves. My companion wished to visit
them that evening, merely as he was in the habit of doing
so daily, for the purpose of seeing that all was right. He
said that Wolves were very abundant that autumn, and
had killed nearly the whole of his sheep and one of his
colts, but that he was now “ paying them off in full;” and
added that if I would tarry a few hours with him next
morning, he would beyond a doubt show me some sport
rarely seen in those parts. We retired to rest in due
time, and were up with the dawn.
“T think,” said my host, “that all’s right, for I see the
dogs are anxious to get away to the pits, and although
they are nothing but curs, their noses are none the worse
for that.”” As he took up his gun, an axe, and a large
knife, the dogs began to howl and bark, and whisked
around us, as if full of joy. When we reached the first
pit, we found the bait all gone, and the platform much
injured; but the animal that had been entrapped had
scraped a subterranean passage for himself, and so es-
caped. On peeping into the next, he assured me that
“three famous fellows were safe enough” in it. I also
500 AUDUBON
peeped in and saw the Wolves, two black, and the other
brindled, all of goodly size, sure enough. They lay flat
on the earth, their ears laid close over the head, their
eyes indicating fear more than anger. “But how are we
to get them out?’ “How, sir?” said the farmer; “why,
by going down, to be sure, and hamstringing them.” Be-
ing a novice in these matters, I begged to be merely a
looker-on. “With all my heart,” quoth the farmer;
“stand here and look at me through the brush.” Where-
upon he glided down, taking with him his axe and knife,
and leaving his rifle to my care. I was not a little sur-
prised to see the cowardice of the Wolves. He pulled
out successively their hind legs, and with a side stroke of
the knife cut the principal tendon above the joint, exhib-
iting as little fear as if he had been marking lambs.
“Lo!” exclaimed the farmer, when he had got out,
“we have forgotten the rope; I’l] go after it.” Off he
went accordingly, with as much alacrity as any youngster
could show. Ina short time he returned out of breath,
and wiping his forehead with the back of his hand—
“Now for it.” I was desired to raise and hold the plat-
form on its central balance, whilst he, with all the dex-
terity of an Indian, threw a noose over the neck of one of
the Wolves. We hauled it up motionless with fright, as
if dead, its disabled legs swinging to and fro, its jaws
wide open, and the gurgle in its throat alone indicating
that it was alive. Letting him drop on the ground, the
farmer loosened the rope by means of a stick, and left
him to the dogs, all of which set upon him with great fury
and soon worried him to death. The second was dealt
with in the same manner; but the third, which was prob-
ably the oldest, as it was the blackest, showed some spirit
the moment it was left loose to the mercy of the curs.
This Wolf, which we afterwards found to be a female,
scuffled along on its fore-legs at a surprising rate, giving
a snap every now and then to the nearest dog, which went
EPISODES 501
off howling dismally, with a mouthful of skin torn from
its side. And so well did the furious beast defend itself,
that apprehensive of its escape, the farmer levelled his
rifle at it, and shot it through the heart, on which the curs
rushed upon it, and satiated their vengeance on the de-
stroyer of their master’s flock.
THE OPOSSUM
Tuis singular animal is found more or less abundant in
most parts of the Southern, Western, and Middle States
of the Union. It is the Didelphis virginiana of Pennant,
Harlan, and other authors who have given some accounts
of its habits; but as none of them, so far as I know, have
illustrated its propensity to dissimulate, and as I have had
opportunities of observing its manners, I trust that a few
particulars of its biography will prove amusing.
The Opossum is fond of secluding itself during the
day, although it by no means confines its predatory rang-
ings to the night. Like many other quadrupeds which
feed principally on flesh, it is also both frugivorous and
herbivorous, and, when very hard pressed by hunger, it
seizes various kinds of insects and reptiles. Its gait,
while travelling, and at a time when it supposes itself
unobserved, is altogether ambling; in other words, it,
like a young foal, moves the two legs of one side forward
at once. The Newfoundland dog manifests a similar pro-
pensity. Having a constitution as hardy as that of the
most northern animals, it stands the coldest weather, and
does not hibernate, although its covering of fur and hair
may be said to be comparatively scanty even during win-
ter. The defect, however, seems to be compensated by
a skin of considerable thickness, and a general subcuta-
neous layer of fat. Its movements are usually rather
502 AUDUBON
slow, and as it walks or ambles along, its curious prehen-
sile tail is carried just above the ground, its rounded ears
are directed forward, and at almost every step its pointed
nose is applied to the objects beneath it, in order to dis-
cover what sort of creatures may have crossed its path.
Methinks I see one at this moment slowly and cautiously
trudging over the melting snows by the side of an unfre-
quented pond, nosing as it goes for the fare its ravenous
appetite prefers. Now it has come upon the fresh track
of a Grouse or Hare, and it raises its snout and snuffs the
keen air. At length it has decided on its course, and it
speeds onward at the rate of a man’s ordinary walk. It
stops and seems at a loss in what direction to go, for the
object of its pursuit has either taken a considerable leap
or has cut backwards before the Opossum entered its
track. It raises itself up, stands for a while on its hind
feet, looks around, snuffs the air again, and then proceeds;
but now, at the foot of a noble tree, it comes to a full
stand. It walks round the base of the huge trunk, over
the snow-covered roots, and among them finds an aperture
which it at once enters. Several minutes elapse, when
it re-appears, dragging along a Squirrel already deprived
of life, with which in its mouth it begins to ascend the
tree. Slowly it climbs. The first fork does not seem to
suit it, for perhaps it thinks it might there be too openly
exposed to the view of some wily foe; and so it proceeds,
until it gains acluster of branches intertwined with grape-
vines, and there composing itself, it twists its tail round
one of the twigs, and with its sharp teeth demolishes the
unlucky Squirrel, which it holds all the while with its
fore-paws.
The pleasant days of spring have arrived, and the trees
vigorously shoot forth their buds; but the Opossum is
almost bare, and seems nearly exhausted by hunger. It
visits the margins of creeks, and is pleased to see the
young frogs, which afford it a tolerable repast. Gradually
EPISODES 503
the poke-berry and the nettle shoot up, and on their ten-
der and juicy stems it gladly feeds. The matin calls of
the Wild Turkey Cock delight the ear of the cunning
creature, for it well knows that it will soon hear the
female and trace her to her nest, when it will suck the
eggs with delight. Travelling through the woods, per-
haps on the ground, perhaps aloft, from tree to tree, it
hears a cock crow, and its heart swells as it remembers
the savory food on which it regaled itself last summer in
the neighboring farm-yard. With great care, however, it
advances, and at last conceals itself in the very hen-house.
Honest farmer! why did you kill so many Crows last
winter? ay and Ravens too? Well, you have had your
own way of it; but now hie to the village and procure a
store of ammunition, clean your rusty gun, set your traps,
and teach your lazy curs to watch the Opossum. There
it comes. The sun is scarcely down, but the appetite of
the prowler is keen; hear the screams of one of your best
chickens that has been seized by him! The cunning
beast is off with it, and nothing can now be done, unless
you stand there to watch the Fox or the Owl, now exulting
in the thought that you have killed their enemy and your
own friend, the poor Crow. That precious hen under
which you last week placed a dozen eggs or so is now
deprived of them. The Opossum, notwithstanding her
angry outcries and rufflings of feathers, has removed them
one by one, and now look at the poor bird as she moves
across your yard; if not mad, she is at least stupid, for
she scratches here and there, calling to her chickens all
the while. All this comes from your shooting Crows.
Had you been more merciful or more prudent, the Opos-
sum might have been kept within the woods, where it
would have been satisfied with a Squirrel, a young Hare,
the eggs of a Turkey, or the grapes that so profusely
adorn the boughs of our forest trees. But I talk to you
in vain.
504 AUDUBON
There cannot be a better exemplification of maternal
tenderness than the female Opossum. Just peep into
that curious sack in which the young are concealed, each
attached toa teat. The kind mother not only nourishes
them with care, but preserves them from their enemies;
she moves with them as the shark does with its progeny,
and now, aloft on the tulip-tree, she hides among the
thick foliage. By the end of two months they begin to
shift for themselves; each has been taught its particular
lesson, and must now practise it.
But suppose the farmer has surprised an Opossum in
the act of killing one of his best fowls. His angry feel-
ings urge him to kick the poor beast, which, conscious of
its inability to resist, rolls off like a ball. The more the
farmer rages, the more reluctant is the animal to manifest
resentment; at last there it lies, not dead, but exhausted,
its jaws open, its tongue extended, its eye dimmed; and
there it would lie until the bottle-fly should come to de-
posit its eggs, did not its tormentor at length walk off.
“Surely,” says he to himself, “the beast must be dead.”
But no, reader, it is only “’possuming,” and no sooner
has its enemy withdrawn than it gradually gets on its
legs, and once more makes for the woods.
Once, while descending the Mississippi, in a sluggish
flat-bottomed boat, expressly for the purpose of studying
those objects of nature more nearly connected with my
favorite pursuits, I chanced to meet with two well-grown
Opossums, and brought them alive to the “ark.” The
poor things were placed on the roof or deck, and were
immediately assailed by the crew, when, following their
natural instinct, they lay as if quite dead. An experi-
ment was suggested, and both were thrown overboard.
On striking the water, and for a few moments after,
neither evinced the least disposition to move; but finding
their situation desperate, they began to swim towards our
uncouth rudder, which was formed of a long slender tree,
extending from the middle of the boat thirty feet beyond
\
EPISODES 505
its stern. They both got upon it, were taken up, and
afterwards let loose in their native woods.
In the year 1829, I was in a portion of lower Louisiana,
where the Opossum abounds at all seasons, and having
been asked by the President and the Secretary of the Zoé-
logical Society of London, to forward live animals of this
species to them, I offered a price a little above the com-
mon, and soon found myself plentifully supplied, twenty-
five having been brought tome. -I found them excessively
voracious, and not less cowardly. They were put intoa
large box, with a great quantity of food, and conveyed to
a steamer bound for New Orleans. Two days afterwards,
I went to that city, to see about sending them off to
Europe; but, to my surprise, I found that the old males
had destroyed the younger ones, and eaten off their heads,
and that only sixteen remained alive. A separate box
was purchased for each, and some time after they reached
my friends, the Rathbones of Liverpool, who, with their
usual attention, sent them off to London, where, on my
return, I saw a good number of them in the Zodlogical
Gardens.
This animal is fond of grapes, of which a species now
bears its name. Persimmons are greedily eaten by it, and
in severe weather I have observed it eating lichens.
Fowls of every kind, and quadrupeds less powerful than
itself, are also its habitual prey.
The flesh of the Opossum resembles that of a young
pig, and would perhaps be as highly prized, were it not
for the prejudice generally entertained against it. Some
“very particular” persons, to my knowledge, have pro-
nounced it excellent eating. After cleaning its body,
suspend it for a whole week in the frosty air, for it is not
eaten in summer; then place it on a heap of hot wood
embers; sprinkle it when cooked with gunpowder; and
now tell me, good reader, does it not equal the famed
Canvas-back Duck? Should you visit any of our mar-
kets, you may see it there in company with the best game.
506 AUDUBON
A MAPLE-SUGAR CAMP
Wuite advancing the best way I could through the mag-
nificent woods that cover the undulating grounds in the
vicinity of the Green River in Kentucky, I was overtaken
by night. With slow and cautious steps I proceeded,
feeling some doubt as to my course, when the moon came
forth, as if purposely to afford me her friendly light.
The air I thought was uncommonly keen, and the gentle
breeze that now and then shook the tops of the tall trees
more than once made me think of halting for the night,
and forming a camp. At times I thought of the cam-
paigns of my old friend, Daniel Boone, his strange ad-
ventures in these very woods, and the extraordinary walk
which he performed to save his fellow creatures at Fort
Massacre from the scalping knives of the irritated In-
dians.!_ Now and thena Raccoon or Opossum, causing the
fallen leaves to rustle, made me pause for a moment; and
thus I was forcing my way, thinking on many things dis-
mal as well as pleasing, when the glimmer of a distant
fire suddenly aroused me from my reveries, and inspired
me with fresh animation. As I approached it, I observed
forms of different kinds moving to and fro before it, like
spectres; and ere long, bursts of laughter, shouts, and
songs apprised me of some merry-making. I thought at
first I had probably stumbled upon a camp meeting; but
I soon perceived that the mirth proceeded from a band of
sugar-makers. Every man, woman, and child stared as I
‘passed them, but all were friendly, and, without more
ceremony than was needful, I walked up to the fire, at
which I found two or three old women, with their hus-
1 “On the 16th [June, 1778], before sunrise, I departed in the most secret
manner, and arrived at Boonesborough on the 2oth, after a journey of 160
miles, during which I had but one meal.” (Letter of Daniel Boone, who
was then forty-three.)
EPISODES 507
bands, attending to the kettles. Their plain dresses of
Kentucky homespun were far more pleasing to my sight
than the ribboned turbans of city dames, or the powdered
wigs and embroidered waistcoats of antique beaux. I was
heartily welcomed, and supplied with a goodly pone of
bread, a plate of molasses, and some sweet potatoes.
Fatigued with my long ramble, I lay down under the
lee of the smoke, and soon fell into a sound sleep. When
day returned, the frost lay thick around; but the party
arose cheerful and invigorated, and after performing
their orisons, resumed their labor. The scenery was
most pleasing; the ground all round looked as if it had
been cleared of underwood; the maples, straight and tall,
seemed as if planted in rows; between them meandered
several rills, which gently murmured as they hastened
toward the larger stream; and as the sun dissolved the
frozen dews the few feathered songsters joined the chorus
of the woodsmen’s daughters. Whenever a burst of
laughter suddenly echoed through the woods, an Owl or
Wild Turkey would respond to it, with a signal welcome
to the young men of the party. With large ladles the
sugar-makers stirred the thickening juice of the maple;
pails of sap were collected from the trees and brought in
by the young people, while here and there some sturdy
fellow was seen first hacking a cut ina tree, and after-
wards boring with an auger a hole, into which he intro-
duced a piece of hollow cane, by which the sap was to be
drained off. About half a dozen men had felled a noble
yellow poplar, and sawed its great'trunk into many pieces,
which, after being split, they were scooping into troughs
to be placed under the cane-cocks, to receive the maple
juice.
Now, good reader, should you ever chance to travel
through the maple grounds that lie near the banks of that
lovely stream the Green River of Kentucky, either in
January or in March, or through those on the broader
508 AUDUBON
Monongahela in April; nay, should you find yourself by
the limpid streamlets that roll down the declivities of the
Pocano Mountains to join the Lehigh, and there meet
with a sugar camp, take my advice and tarry for a while.
If you be on foot or on horseback, and are thirsty, you
can nowhere find a more wholesome or more agreeable
beverage than the juice of the maple. A man when in
the Floridas may drink molasses diffused in water; in
Labrador he may drink what he can get; and at New
York or Philadelphia he may drink what he chooses; but
in the woods a draught from the sugar maple is delicious
and most refreshing. How often, when travelling, have
I quenched my thirst with the limpid juice of the receiv-
ing-troughs, from which I parted with regret; nay, even
my horse, J have thought, seemed to desire to linger as
long as he could.
But let me endeavor to describe to you the manner in
which the sugar is obtained. The trees that yield it
(Acer saccharinum) are found more or less abundantly in
all parts of the United States from Louisiana to Maine,
growing on elevated rich grounds. An incision is made
into the trunk at a height of from two to six feet; a pipe
of cane or of any other kind is thrust into the aperture,
a trough is placed beneath and receives the juice, which
trickles by drops, and is as limpid as the purest spring
water. When all the trees of a certain space have been
tapped, and the troughs filled, the people collect the
juice, and pour it into large vessels. A camp has already
been pitched in the midst of a grove; several iron boilers
have been fixed on stone or brick supports, and the busi-
ness proceeds with vigor. At times several neighboring
families join, and enjoy the labor, as if it were a pastime,
remaining out day and night for several weeks; for the
troughs and kettles must be attended to from the moment
when they are first put in requisition until the sugar is
produced. The men and boys perform the most laborious
EPISODES 509
part of the business, but the women and girls are not less
busy.
It takes ten gallons of sap to produce a pound of fine-
grained sugar ,; but an inferior kind in lumps, called cake
sugar, is obtained in greater quantity. When the season
is far advanced, the juice will no longer grain by boiling,
and only produces a syrup. I have seen maple sugar so ~
good, that some months after it was manufactured it re-
sembled candy; and well do I remember the time when
it was an article of commerce throughout Kentucky,
where, twenty-five or thirty years ago, it sold at from 64
to 124 cents per pound, according to its quality, and was
daily purchased in the markets or stores.
Trees that have been thus bored rarely last many years;
for the cuts and perforations made in their trunks injure
their health, so that after some years of weeping they be-
come sickly, exhibit monstrosities about their lower parts,
gradually decay, and at length die. I have no doubt,
however, that, with proper care, the same quantity of sap
might be obtained with less injury to the trees; and it is
now fully time that the farmers and land-owners should
begin to look to the preservation of their sugar-maples.
THE WHITE PERCH AND THE FAVORITE
BAIT
No sooner have the overflowing waters of early spring
subsided within their banks, and the temperature become
pleasant, than the trees of our woods are seen to unfold
their buds and blossoms, and the White Perch which during
the winter has lived in the ocean, rushes up our streams,
to seek the well-known haunts in which it last year depos-
ited its spawn. With unabating vigor it ascends the tur-
bulent current of the Mississippi, of which, however, the
510 AUDUBON
waters are too muddy to suit its habits; and glad no doubt
it is to enter one of the numberless tributaries whose
limpid waters are poured into the mighty river. Of these
subsidiary waters the Ohio is one in whose pure stream
the White Perch seems to delight; and towards its head-
springs the fish advance in numerous shoals, following the
banks with easy progress. Over many a pebbly or grav-
elly bar does it seek its food. Here the crawling Mussel
it crunches and devours; there, with the speed of an
arrow, it darts upon the minnow; again, at the edge of a
shelving rock, or by the side of a stone, it secures a cray-
fish. No impure food will “the Growler” touch; there-
fore, reader, never make use of such to allure it, otherwise
not only will your time be lost, but you will not enjoy the
gratification of tasting this delicious fish. Should you
have no experience in fishing for Perch I would recommend
to you to watch the men you see on that shore, for they
are excellent anglers.
Smooth are the waters, clear is the sky, and gently does
the stream move — perhaps its velocity does not exceed a
mile in the hour. Silence reigns around you. See, each
fisher has a basket or calabash, containing many a live
cray; and each line, as thick as a crowquill, measures
scarce a furlong. At one end two Perch-hooks are so fas-
tened that they cannot interfere with each other. A few
inches beyond the reaching point of the farthest hook, the
sinker, perhaps a quarter of a pound in weight, having a
hole bored through its length, is passed upon the line, and
there secured by a stout knot at its lower extremity. The
other end of the line is fastened ashore. The tackle, you
observe, is carefully coiled on the sand at the fisher’s feet.
Now on each hook he fixes a cray-fish, piercing the shell
beneath the tail, and forcing the keen weapon to reach the
very head of the suffering creature, while all its legs are left
at liberty to move. Now each man, holding his line a yard
or so from the hooks, whirls it several times overhead, and
EPISODES II
sends it off to its full length directly across the stream, No
sooner has it reached the gravelly bed than, gently urged
by the current, it rolls over and over, until the line and the
water follow the same direction. Before this, however, I
see that several of the men have had a bite, and that by a
short jerk they have hooked the fish. Hand over hand
they haul in their lines. Poor Perch, it is useless labor for
thee to flounce and splash in that manner, for no pity will
be shown thee, and thou shalt be dashed on the sand, and
left there to quiver in the agonies of death. The lines are
within a few yards of being in. Isee the fish gasping on
its side. Ah! there are two on this line, both good; on
most of the others there is one; but I see some of the
lines have been robbed by some cunning inhabitant of the
water. What beautiful fishes these Perches are! So sil-
very beneath, so deeply colored above! What a fine eye,
too! But, friend, I cannot endure their gaspings. Pray
put them on this short line, and place them in the water
beside you, until you prepare to go home. In a few hours
each fisher has obtained as many as he wishes. He rolls
up his line, fastens five or six Perches on each side of his
saddle, mounts his horse, and merrily wends his way.
In this manner the White Perch is caught along the
sandy banks of the Ohio, from its mouth to its source.
In many parts above Louisville some fishers prefer using
the trot-line, which, however, ought to be placed upon, or
very little above, the bottom of the stream. When this
kind. of line is employed, its hooks are more frequently
baited with mussels than with cray-fish, the latter being,
perhaps, not so easily procured there as farther down the
stream. Great numbers of Perches are also caught in
seines, especially during a transient rise of the water. Few
persons fish for them with the pole, as they generally
prefer following the edges of the sand-bars, next to deep
water. Like all others of its tribe, the White Perch is fond
of depositing its spawn on gravelly or sandy beds, but
512 AUDUBON
rarely at a depth of less than four or five feet. These beds
are round, and have an elevated margin formed of the
sand removed from their centre, which is scooped out
for two or three inches. The fish, although it generally
remains for some days over its treasure, is by no means so
careful of it as the little “ Sunny,” but starts off at the least
appearance of danger. I have more than once taken con-
siderable pleasure in floating over their beds, when the
water was sufficiently clear to admit of my seeing both the
fish and its place of deposit; but I observed that if the sun
was shining, the very sight of the boat’s shadow drove the
Perches away. I am of opinion that most of them return
to the sea about the beginning of November; but of this
I am not certain. :
The usual length of this fish, which on the Ohio is called
the White Perch, and in the state of New York the Growler,
is from fifteen to twenty inches. I have, however, seen
some considerably larger. The weight varies from a pound
and a half to four, and even six pounds. For the first six
weeks of their arrival in fresh-water streams they are in
season; the flesh is then white and firm, and affords
excellent eating; but during the heats of summer they
become poor, and are seldom very good. Now and then,
in the latter days of September, I have eaten some that
tasted as well as in spring. One of the most remarkable
habits of this fish is that from which it has received the
name of Growler. When poised in the water, close to the
bottom of the boat, it emits a rough croaking noise, some-
what resembling a groan. Whenever this sound is heard
under a boat, if the least disturbance is made by knocking
on the gunwale or bottom, it at once ceases; but is renewed
when everything is quiet. It is seldom heard, however,
unless in fine, calm weather.
The White Perch bites at the hook with considerable
care, and very frequently takes off the bait without being
caught. Indeed, it requires a good deal of dexterity to
EPISODES S13
hook it, for if this is not done the first time it touches the
bait, you rarely succeed afterward; and I have seen young
hands at the game, who, in the course of a morning, sel-
dom caught more than one or two, although they lost per-
haps twenty crays. But now that I have afforded you
some information respecting the habits of the White Perch,
allow me to say a few words on the subject of its favorite
bait.
The cray is certainly not a fish, although usually so
styled; but as every one is acquainted with its form and
nature, I shall not inflict on you any disquisition regarding
it. It is a handsome crustaceous animal certainly, and its
whole tribe I consider as dainties of the first order. To
me “ Zcrevisses,” whether of salt or fresh water, stripped
of their coats and blended into a soup or a “‘ Gombo,” have
always been most welcome. Boiled or roasted, too, they
are excellent in my estimation, and mayhap in yours.
The cray-fish, of which I here more particularly speak —
for I shall not deprive them of their caudal appendage, lest,
like a basha without his tail, they might seem of less con-
sequence — are found most abundantly swimming, crawl-
ing at the bottom or on shore, or working at their muddy
burrows, in all the southern parts of the Union. If I mis-
take not, we have two species at least, one more an inhabi-
tant of rocky streamlets than the other, and that one by far
the best, though the other is good too. Both species swim
by means of rapid strokes of the tail, which propel them
backwards to a considerable distance at each repetition.
All that I regret concerning these animals is that they are
absolutely little aquatic vultures — or, if you please, crus-
tacea with vulturine habits — for they feed on everything
impure that comes in their way, when they cannot obtain
fresh aliment. However this may be, the crays somehow
fall in with this sort of food, and any person may catch as
many as he may wish, by fastening a piece of flesh to a
line, allowing it to remain under water for a while, and
VOL. II. — 33
514 AUDUBON
drawing it up with care, when, with the aid of a hand-net,
he may bring it ashore with a few/ But although this is
a good method of procuring cray-fish, it answers only for
those that live in running waters. The form of these is
delicate, their color a light olive, and their motions in the
water are very lively. The others are larger, of a dark,
greenish brown, less active in the water than on land,
although they are most truly amphibious. The first con-
ceal themselves beneath shelving rocks, stones, or water-
plants; the others form a deep burrow in the damp earth,
depositing the materials drawn up as a man would do in
digging a well. The manner in which they dispose of the
mud you may see by glancing at the plate of the White
Ibis, in my third volume of illustrations, where also you
will find a tolerable portrait of one of these creatures.
According to the nature of the ground, the burrows of
this cray-fish are more or less deep. Indeed, this also
depends partly on the increasing dryness of the soil, when
influenced by the heat of summer, as well as on the tex-
ture of the substratum. Thus, in some places, where the
cray can reach the water after working a few inches, it rests
contented during the day, but crawls out for food at night.
Should it, however, be left dry, it renews its labors; and
thus while one burrow may be only five or six inches
deep, another may be two or three feet, and a third even
more. They are easily procured when thus lodged in
shallow holes; but when the burrow is deep, a thread is
used, with a small piece of flesh fastened to it. The cray
eagerly seizes the bait, and is gently drawn up, and thrown
to a distance, when he becomes an easy prey. You have
read of the method used by the White Ibis in procuring
crays,! and I leave you to judge whether the bird or the
1 This bird [the White Ibis], to procure the Cray-fish, walks with re-
markable care to the mounds of mud which the latter throws up while
forming its hole, and breaks up the upper part of the fabric, dropping the
fragments into the deep cavity that has been made by the animal. Then
EPISODES 515
man is the best fisher. This species is most abundant
round the borders of the stagnant lakes, bayous, or ponds
of the Southern Districts; and I have seen them caught
even in the streets of the suburbs of New Orleans, after a
heavy shower. They become a great pest by perforating
embankments of all sorts, and many are the maledictions
that are uttered against them, both by millers and planters,
nay, even by the overseers of the levees along the banks
of the Mississippi. But they are curious creatures, formed
no doubt for useful purposes, and as such they are worthy
of your notice.
THE AMERICAN SUN PERCH
Few of our smaller fresh-water fishes excel, either in
beauty or in delicacy and flavor, the species which I have
chosen as the subject of this article, and few afford more
pleasure to young fishers. Although it occurs in all our
streams, whether rapid or gentle, small or large, in the
mill-dam overshadowed by tall forest trees, or in the open
lake margined with reeds, you must never expect to find
it in impure waters. Let the place be deep or shallow,
broad or narrow, the water must be clear enough to allow
the sun’s rays to fall unimpaired on the rich coat of mail
that covers the body of the Sunfish. Look at him as he
poises himself under the lee of the protecting rock beneath
our feet! See how steadily he maintains his position,
and yet how many rapid motions of his fins are necessary
to preserve it! Now another is by his side glowing with
equal beauty, and poising itself by equally easy and grace-
the Ibis retires a single step, and patiently waits the result. The Cray-fish,
incommoded by the load of earth, instantly sets to work anew, and at last
reaches the entrance of its burrow; but the moment it comes in sight the
Ibis seizes it with his bill. (The White Ibis, /ézs A/éa, Plate CCXXIL.,
Ornith. Biog., vol. iii., p. 176).
516 AUDUBON
ful movements. The sun is shining, and under the lee of
every stone, and sunk log, some of the little creatures are
rising to the surface to enjoy the bright blaze, which en-
hances all their beauty. The golden hues of some parts of
the body, blend with the green of the emerald, while the
coral tints of the lower parts and the red of its sparkling
eye, render our little favorite a perfect gem of the waters.
The rushing stream boils and gurgles as it forces its
way over the obstacles presented by its bed, the craggy
points, large stones and logs that are strewn along the
bottom. Every one of these proves a place of rest, safety,
and observation to the little things, whose eyes are ever
anxiously watching their favorite prey as it passes. There
an unfortunate moth, swept along by the current, labors in
vain to extricate itself from the treacherous element; its
body, indeed, at intervals, rises a little above the surface,
but its broad wings, now wet and heavy, bear it down
again to the water. The Sunfish has marked it, and as
it passes his retreat, he darts towards it, with twenty of
his fellows, all eager to seize the prize. The swiftest
swallows it in a moment, and all immediately return to
their lurking-places, where they fancy themselves secure.
But, alas! the Sunfish is no more without enemies than
the moth, or any other living creature. So has nature
determined, evidently, to promote prudence and industry,
without which none can reap the full advantage of life.
On the top of yon miller’s dam stands boldly erect the
ardent fisher. Up to the knees and regardless of the dan-
ger of his situation, he prepares his apparatus of destruc-
tion. A keen hook attached to his grass line is now hid
within the body of a worm or grasshopper. Witha know-
ing eye he marks one after another every surge of the
water below. Observing the top of a rock scarcely cov-
ered, he sends his hook towards it with gentleness and
certainty; the bait now floats and anon sinks; his reel
slowly lengthens the line, which is suddenly tightened,
EPISODES 617
and he feels that a fish is secured. Now whirls the reel
again; thrice has the fish tried its utmost strength and
speed, but soon, panting and exhausted, it is seen float-
ing for a moment on the surface. Nothing now is re-
quired but to bring it to hand, which done, the angler
baits anew, and sends forth the treacherous morsel. For
an hour or more he continues the agreeable occupation,
drawing from the stream a fish at every short interval.
To the willow twig fastened to his waist a hundred “ Sun-
nies” are already attached. Suddenly the sky is over-
cast, and the crafty fisher, although aware that with a
different hook and bait he might soon procure a fine
eel or two, carefully wades to the shore, and homeward
leisurely plods his way.
In this manner are the Sunfishes caught by the regular
or “scientific” anglers, and a beautiful sight it is to see
the ease and grace with which they allure the objects of
their desire, whether in the open turbulence of the waters,
or under the low boughs of the overhanging trees, where,
in some deep hole, a swarm of the little creatures may
be playing in fancied security. Rarely does his tackle
become entangled, whilst, with incomparable dexterity,
he draws one after another from the waters.
Thousands of individuals, however, there are, who, less
curious in their mode of fishing, often procure as many
*Sunnies ” without allowing them to play for a moment.
Look at these boys! One stands on the shore, while the
others are on fallen trees that project over the stream.
Their rods, as you perceive, are merely shoots of the
hazel or hickory, their lines are simply twine, and their
hooks none of the finest. One has a calabash filled with
worms and grubs of many sorts, kept alive in damp earth,
and another is supplied with a bottle containing half a
gross of live “hoppers;” the third has no bait at all, but
borrows from his nearest neighbor. Well, there they
are, “three merry boys,” whirling their rods in the air to
518 AUDUBON
unroll their lines, on one of which, you observe, a cork is
fastened, while on another is a bit of light wood, and on
the third a grain or two of large shot, to draw it at once
to a certain depth. Now their hooks are baited and all
are ready. Each casts his line as he thinks best, after
he has probed the depth of the stream with his rod, to
enable him to place his buoy at the proper point. Bob,
bob, goes the cork; down it moves; the bit of wood dis-
appears, the leaded line tightens; in a moment up swing
the “Sunnies,” which, getting unhooked, are projected
far among the grass, where they struggle in vain, until
death ends their efforts. The hooks are now baited anew,
and dropped into the water. The fish is abundant, the
weather propitious and delightful, for it is now October;
and so greedy have the “ Sunnies”” become of grasshoppers
and grubs that dozens at once dash at the same bait. The
lads, believe me, have now rare sport, and in an hour
scarcely a fish remains in the hole. The happy children
have caught, perhaps, some hundreds of delicious “ pan-
fish,” to feed their parents and delight their little sisters.
Surely their pleasure is fully as great as that experienced
by the scientific angler.
‘I have known instances when the waters of a dam hav-
ing been let out, for some reason better known to the
miller than to myself, all the Sunfish have betaken them-
selves to one or two deep holes, as if to avoid being car-
ried away from their favorite abode. There I have seen
them in such multitudes that one could catch as many as
he pleased with a pin-hook, fastened to any sort of line,
and baited with any sort of worm or insect, or even with
a piece of newly caught fish. Yet, and Iam not able to
account for it, all of a sudden, without apparent cause,
they would cease to take, and no allurement whatever
could entice them or the other fishes in the pool to seize
the hook.
During high freshets, this species of Perch seldom bites
EPISODES 519
at anything; but you may procure them with a cast-net
or a seine, provided you are well acquainted with the
localities. On the contrary, when the waters are clear
and low, every secluded hole, every eddy under the lee
of a rock, every place sheltered by a raft of timber, will
afford you amusement. In some parts of the Southern
States, the negroes procure these fishes late in the autumn
in shallow ponds or bayous, by wading through the water
with caution, and placing at every few steps a wicker
apparatus, not unlike a small barrel, open at both ends.
The moment the fishes find themselves confined within
the lower part of this, which is pressed to the bottom
of the stream, their skippings announce their capture, and
the fisher secures his booty.
This species, the Ladrus auritus of Linnzeus, the Pomo-
tis vulgaris of Cuvier, seldom exceeds five or six inches
in length, but is rather deep in proportion. The usual
size is from four to five inches, with a depth of from two
to two anda half. They are not bony, and at all seasons
afford delicate eating. Having observed a considerable
change in their color in different parts of the United
States, and in different streams, ponds, or lakes, I was
led to think that this curious effect might be produced
by the difference of color in the water. Thus the Sun-
fish caught in the deep waters of Green River, in Ken-
tucky, exhibit a depth of olive-brown quite different from
the general tint of those caught in the colorless waters
of the Ohio or Schuylkill; those of the reddish-colored
waters of the bayous of the Louisiana swamps look as if
covered with a coppery tarnish; and, lastly, those met
with in streams that glide beneath cedars or other firs,
have a pale and sallow complexion.
The Sun Perch, wherever found, seems to give a
decided preference to sandy, gravelly, or rocky .beds of
streams, avoiding those of which the bottom is muddy.
At the period of depositing their eggs this preference
520 AUDUBON
is still more apparent. The little creature is then seen
swimming rapidly over shallows, the bed of which is
mostly formed of fine gravel, when after a time it is ob-
served to poise itself and gradually sink to the bottom,
where with its fin it pushes aside the sand to the extent
of eight or ten inches, thus forming a circular cavity. In
a few days a little ridge is thus raised around, and in the
cleared area the roe is deposited. By wading carefully
over the extent of the place, a person may count forty,
fifty, or more of these beds, some within a few feet of
each other, and some several yards apart. Instead of
abandoning its spawn, as others of the family are wont
to do, this little fish keeps guard over it with all the care
of a sitting bird. You observe it poised over the bed,
watching the objects around. Should the rotten leaf of
a tree, a piece of wood, or any other substance, happen to
be rolled over the border of the bed, the Sunfish carefully
removes it, holding the obnoxious matter in its mouth,
and dropping it over the margin. Having many times
witnessed this act of prudence and cleanliness in the
little sunny, and observed that at this period it will not
seize on any kind of bait, I took it into my head one fair
afternoon to make a few experiments for the purpose of
judging how far its instinct or reason might induce it to
act when disturbed or harassed.
Provided with a fine fishing-line, and such insects as I
knew were relished by this fish, I reached a sand-bar
covered by about one foot of water, where I had previously
seen many deposits. Approaching the nearest to the
shore with great care, I baited my hook with a living
grotnd-worm, the greater part of which was left at liberty
to writhe as it pleased, and, throwing the line up the
stream, managed it so that at last it passed over the
border of the nest, when I allowed it to remain on the
bottom. The fish, I perceived, had marked me, and as
the worm intruded on its premises, it swam to the farther
EPISODES 521
side, there poised itself for a few moments, then ap-
proached the worm, and carried it in its mouth over the
side next to me, with a care and gentleness so very
remarkable as to afford me much surprise. I repeated
the experiment six or seven times, and always with the
same result. Then changing the bait, I employed a
young grasshopper, which I floated into the egg-bed.
The insect was removed, as the worm had been, and two
attempts to hook the fish proved unsuccessful. I now
threw my line with the hook bare, and managed as before.
The Sunny appeared quite alarmed. It swam to one side,
then to another, in rapid succession, and seemed to enter-
tain a fear that the removal of the suspicious object might
prove extremely dangerous to it. Yet it gradually ap-
proached the hook, took it delicately up, and the next
instant dropped it over the edge of the bed.
Reader, if you are one who, like me, have studied
Nature with a desire to improve your mental faculties,
and contemplate the wonderful phenomena that present
themselves to the view at every step we take in her wide
domain, you would have been struck, had you witnessed
the actions of this little fish, as I was, with admiration
of the Being who gave such instincts to so humble an ob-
ject. I gazed in amazement at the little creature, and
wondered that Nature had endowed it with such feelings
and powers. The irrepressible desire of acquiring knowl-
edge prompted me to continue the experiment; but with
whatever dexterity I could in those days hook a fish, all
my efforts proved abortive, not with this individual only,
but with many others which I subjected to the same
trials.
Satisfied that at this period the Sunfish was more than
a match for me, I rolled up my line, and with the rod
gave a rap on the water as nearly over the fish as I could.
The Sunny darted off to a distance of several yards,
poised itself steadily, and as soon as my rod was raised
522 AUDUBON
from the water, returned to its station. The effect of
the blow on the water was now apparent, for I perceived
that the fish was busily employed in smoothing the bed;
but here ended my experiments on the Sunfish.
MY STYLE OF DRAWING BIRDS?!
Wuen, as a little lad, I first began my attempts at
representing birds on paper, I was far from possessing
much knowledge of their nature, and, like hundreds of
others, when I had laid the effort aside, I was under the
impression that it was a finished picture of a bird because
it possessed some sort of a head and tail, and two sticks
in lieu of legs; I never troubled myself with the thought
that abutments were requisite to prevent it from falling
either backward or forward, and oh! what bills and claws
I did draw, to say nothing of a perfectly straight line for
a back, and a tail stuck in anyhow, like an unshipped
rudder.
Many persons besides my father saw my miserable
attempts, and so many praised them to the skies that
perhaps no one was ever nearer being completely wrecked
than I by these mistaken, though affectionate words. My
father, however, spoke very differently to me; he con-
stantly impressed upon me that nothing in the world pos-
sessing life and animation was easy to imitate, and that
as I grew older he hoped I would become more and more
alive to this. He was so kind to me, and so deeply inter-
ested in my improvement that to have listened carelessly
1 Audubon’s drawings have been criticised for their flatness. Of this,
Cuvier says: “It is difficult to give a true picture of a bird with the same
effect of perspective as a landscape, and the lack of this is no defect in a
work on Natural History. Naturalists prefer the real color of objects to
those accidental tints which are the result of the varied reflections of light
necessary to complete picturesque representations, but foreign and even in-
jurious to scientific truth.”
EPISODES 523
to his serious words would have been highly ungrateful.
I listened less to others, more to him, and his words
became my law.
The first collection of drawings I made were from
European specimens, procured by my father or myself,
and I still have them in my possession. They were all
represented strictly ornithologically, which means neither
more nor less than in stiff, unmeaning profiles, such as
are found in most works published to the present day.
My next set was begun in America, and there, without
my honored mentor, I betook myself to the drawing of
specimens hung by a string tied to one foot, having a
desire to show every portion, as the wings lay loosely
spread, as well as the tail. In this manner I made some
pretty fair signs for poulterers.
One day, while watching the habits of a pair of Pewees
at Mill Grove, I looked so intently at their graceful atti-
tudes that a thought struck my mind like a flash of light,
that nothing, after all, could ever answer my enthusiastic
desires to represent nature, except to copy her in her own
way, alive and moving! Then I began again. On I
went, forming, literally, hundreds of outlines of my favor-
ites, the Pewees; how good or bad I cannot tell, but I
fancied I had mounted a step on the high pinnacle before
me. I continued for months together, simply outlining
birds as I observed them, either alighted or on the wing,
but could finish none of my sketches. I procured many
individuals of different species, and laying them on the
table or on the ground, tried to place them in such atti-
tudes as I had sketched. But, alas! they were dead, to
all intents and purposes, and neither wing, leg, nor tail
could I place according to my wishes. A second thought
came to my assistance; by means of threads I raised or
lowered a head, wing, or tail, and by fastening the threads
1 This was in 1838; they have since been destroyed by fire, or, at least,
the greater number.
524 AUDUBON
securely, I had something like life before me; yet much
was wanting. When I saw the living birds, I felt the
blood rush to my temples, and almost in despair spent
about a month without drawing, but in deep thought, and
daily in the company of the feathered inhabitants of dear
Mill Grove.
I had drawn from the “manikin” whilst under David,
and had obtained tolerable figures of our species through
this means, so I cogitated how far a manikin of a bird
would answer. I labored with wood, cork, and Wires,
and formed a grotesque figure, which I cannot describe
in any other words than by saying that when set up it was
a tolerable-looking Dodo. A friend roused my ire by
laughing at it immoderately, and assuring me that if I
wished to represent a tame gander it might do. I gave it
a kick, broke it to atoms, walked off, and thought again.
Young as I was, my impatience to obtain my desire
filled my brains with many plans. I not infrequently
dreamed that I had made a newdiscovery; and long before
day, one morning, I leaped out of bed fully persuaded
that I had obtained my object. I ordered a horse to be
saddled, mounted, and went off at a gallop towards the
little village of Norristown, distant about five miles.
When I arrived there not a door was open, for it was not
yet daylight. Therefore I went to the river, took a bath,
and, returning to the town, entered the first opened shop,
inquired for wire of different sizes, bought some, leaped
on my steed, and was soon again at Mill Grove. The
wife of my tenant, I really believe, thought that I was
mad, as, on offering me breakfast, I told her I only
wanted my gun. I was off to the creek, and shot the first
Kingfisher I met. I picked the bird up, carried it home
by the bill, sent for the miller, and bade him bring mea
piece of board of soft wood. When he returned he found
me filing sharp points to some pieces of wire, and I pro-
ceeded to show him what I meant todo. I pierced the
‘OSH ‘TMUAHLAM 'H “A NOMA HdVAOOLONd V WOUT
‘MHANO NAWOINYAd AHL NO AAOUND TTIW LV AOVLLOO SUATTNW GNV TIIN GTO
EPISODES 525
body of the fishing bird, and fixed it on the board; another
wire passed above his upper mandible held the head ina
pretty fair attitude, smaller ones fixed the feet according
to my notions, and even common pins came to my assist-
ance. The last wire proved a delightful elevator to the
bird’s tail, and at last —there stood before me the veal
Kingfisher.
Think not that my lack of breakfast was at all in my
way. No, indeed! I outlined the bird, aided by com-
passes and my eyes, colored it, finished it, without a
thought of hunger. My honest miller stood by the while,
and was delighted to see me pleased. This was what I
shall call my first drawing actually from nature, for even
the eye of the Kingfisher was as if full of life whenever
I pressed the lids aside with my finger.
In those happy days of my youth I was extremely fond
of reading what I still call the delightful fables of
La Fontaine. I had frequently perused the one entitled
“Lhirondelle et les petits oiseaux,” and thought much of
the meaning imparted in the first line, which, if I now
recollect rightly, goes on to say that “ Quiconque a beau-
coup vu, peut avoir beaucoup retenu.” To me this meant
that to study Nature was to ramble through her domains
late and early, and if I observed all as I should, that the
memory of what I saw would at least be of service to me.
“Early to bed, and early to rise,” was another adage
which I thought, and still think, of much value; ’tis a
pity that instead of being merely an adage it has not
become a general law; I have followed it ever since I was
a child, and am ever grateful for the hint it conveyed.
As I wandered, mostly bent on the study of birds, and
with a wish to represent all those found in our woods, to
the best of my powers, I gradually became acquainted
with their forms and habits, and the use of my wires was
improved by constant practice. Whenever I produced a
better representation of any species the preceding one was
526 AUDUBON
destroyed, and after a time I laid down what I was pleased
to call a constitution of my manner of drawing birds,
formed upon natural principles, which I will try to put
briefly before you.
The gradual knowledge of the forms and habits of the
birds of our country impressed me with the idea that
each part of a family must possess a certain degree of
affinity, distinguishable at sight in any one of them.
The Pewees, which I knew by experience were positively
Flycatchers, led me to the discovery that every bird truly
of that genus, when standing, was usually in a passive
attitude; that they sat uprightly, now and then glancing
their eyes upwards or sideways, to watch the approach of
their insect prey; that if in pursuit of this prey their
movements through the air were, in each and all of that
tribe, the same, etc., etc.
Gallinaceous birds I saw were posséssed of movements
and positions peculiar to them. Amongst the water-
birds also I found characteristic manners. I observed
that the Herons walked with elegance and stateliness,
that, in fact, every family had some mark by which it
could be known; and, after having collected many ideas
and much material of this kind, I fairly began, in greater
earnest than ever, the véry collection of Birds of America,
which is now being published.
The better I understood my subjects, the better I be-
came able to represent them in what I hoped were natural
positions. The bird once fixed with wires on squares, I
studied as a lay figure before me, its nature, previously
known to me as far as habits went, and its general form
having been frequently observed. Now I could examine
more thoroughly the bill, nostrils, eyes, legs, and claws,
as well as the structure of the wings and tail; the very
tongue was of importance to me, and I thought the more
I understood all these particulars, the better representa-
tions I made of the originals.
AUDUBON.
FROM A PENCIL SKETCH AFTER DEATH, BY JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON.
January 28, 1851.
EPISODES 527
My drawings at first were made altogether in water-
colors, but they wanted softness and a great deal of finish.
For a long time I was much dispirited at this, particu-
larly when vainly endeavoring to imitate birds of soft
and downy plumage, such as that of most Owls, Pigeons,
Hawks, and Herons. How this could be remedied re-
quired a new train of thought, or some so-called accident,
and the latter came to my aid.
One day, after having finished a miniature portrait of
the one dearest to me in all the world, a portion of the
face was injured by a drop of water, which dried where it
fell; and although I labored a great deal to repair the
damage, the blur still remained. Recollecting that, when
a pupil of David, I had drawn heads and figures in
different colored chalks, I resorted to a piece of that
material of the tint required for the part, applied the pig-
ment, rubbed the place with a cork stump, and at once
produced the desired effect.
My drawings of Owls and other birds of similar plumage
were much improved by such applications; indeed, after
afew years of patience, some of my attempts began almost
to please me, and I have continued the same styie ever
since, and that now is for more than thirty years.
Whilst travelling in Europe as well as America, many
persons have evinced the desire to draw birds in my man-
ner, and I have always felt much pleasure in showing it
to any one by whom I hoped ornithological delineations
or portraitures would be improved.
BOWIE KNIFE,
Presented by Henry Carleton,
LN DEX
ABERT, Cot. JOHN, i. 70.
Abingdon, ii. 218.
Abyssinian, i. 199.
Académie des Sciences, i. 308, 312, 317.
Academy of Arts, Edinburgh, i, 177.
Academy of Natural History, Manchester.
See Manchester Academy of Arts.
Academy of Sciences, Philadelphia, i. 55, 56,
go, 525.
Academy of Sciences, New York. See New
York Academy of Sciences.
Acer saccharinum, ii. 508.
Actitis macularia, i. 365.
Adams, Bernard, ii. 97.
Adams, John Quincy, i. 275.
Adamson, John, i. 230,233, 235, 262-264,437-
€gialitis semipalmatus, i. 356.
Africa, i. 217.
Alabama, i. 329; ii. 445.
Alauda alpestris, i. 384, 419, 420, 424. See
also Lark, Shore.
—— spragueii, ii. 41.
Albagash River, ii. 392.
Alca torda, i. 364-366, 369, 383, 384, 391, 428.
Alexis, i. 529, 530, 5363 ii. 4, 7, 9, 16, 20,
23, 25, 36, 38, 39: 415 42) 71.
Algiers, ii. 232.
Allan, William, i. 171, 189.
Alleghanies, Mountains, i. 62, 454, 459; ii.
437) 454+
Alligator, i. 87, 187, 205; ii. 251, 255, 258,
267) 309, 337) 354) 355+
Aln River, i. 228.
Alnwick, i. 228, 263.
Alnwick Castle, i. 262.
America, i. 66, 69, 91, 94, 228, 232, 235,
237; 245, 253-255, 270, 276, 277, 281,
289, 295-297, 301, 310, 313, 315, 329; 330,
331) 333: 339) 3425 ii. 210, 231, 527.
American Fur Company, i. 72, 525; ii. 6,
47, 188.
American Harbor, i. 365, 380, 383, 384.
American Ornithological Union, i. 77.
Amherst Island, i. 354, 355-
Amiens, i. 305.
VOL. 11. —384
Ammodramus bairdi, ii. 117.
—— [Colurniculus] lecontei, i. 510,
Amsterdam, i. 301.
Anas fusca, i. 418.
— glacialis, i. 414. See also Duck, Vel-
vet.
—— obscura, i. 366.
Anatomical School, Oxford, i. 292.
Andes, i. 271.
“ Andromache, The” (brig), i. 88.
Angel Inn, i. 275.
Anhingas, ii. 337.
Anser albifrons gambeli, i. 459.
canadensis, i. 370. See also Goose,
Wild.
Antelope, i. 496, 499, 54. 505, 507-512,
5255 ii. 9, 19; 36, 42-59, 56, 58, 60-65,
87, 90, 95, 102, To4-106, 108, 113, 114,
117, 118, 121, 122, 126, 128, 130-133,
138, 140, 154, 155, 166, 167, 169.
Anthus pennsylvanicus, i. 384.
— spinoletta, i. 384, 391, 399. Sce also
Lark, Brown.
— [Neocorys] spraguei, ii. 41.
Anticosti Island, i. 363.
Antilocapra americana, ii. 42.
Antiquarian Society, Edinburgh, i. 169, 181,
205, 211.
Apple Creek, ii. 5, 158.
Apple White, i. 505.
Aquila chrysaétus, i. 415.
Archibald, George, i. 438.
Arctomys [cynomys] ludovicianus, i. 458,
522. See also Dog, Prairie.
—— monax, i. 461.
Ardea herodias, i. 27, 354.
—— occidentalis, ii. 370.
Arickaras, i. 532; ii. 3.
Arkansas River, i. 161, 291; ii. 215, 437+
Arkwright, Sir Thomas, i. 137, 138.
Armadillo, ii. 36.
Arrow Rock, ii. 174.
Arthur’s Seat, i. 213, 266.
Artemisia, ii. 26, 39.
Artois, i. 305.
530
INDEX
Arvicola pennsylvanica, i. 530; ii. 165.
—riparius, i. 530.
Ashley, General, ii. 3.
Asia, i. 217.
Assiniboin, ii. 23, 25, 26; 38, 48, 51, 77, 78,
97; 107-109, 112, 121, 124, 126, 127, 133,
140, 145, 154, 156.
** Assiniboin ” (steamer), ii. 7, 42.
Astoria, Irving’s, i. 456, 486.
Athenzum, Liverpool, i. 270.
Athenzum, London, i. 253.
Athens, British, ii. 208.
Atherton, Mr., i. 271.
Atkinson, Mr., i. 243.
Atlantic Ocean, i. 91, 354, 440.
Auckland, Lord, i. 282.
Audubon, Georgiana, ii. 175.
——, Admiral Jean, i. 5, 9, 42.
—, John Woodhouse, i. 6, 32, 38, 47, 51,
60, 62, 66, 67, 69, 79, 73-76, 81, 120, 230,
232, 259, 291; companion in Labrador,
345-4453 476; li. 168, 176.
——, Mrs. Lucy, i. 18, 21, 26, 34, 35, 39-41,
48, 51, 52, 60, 63, 64, 66, 68, 70, 81, 449;
ii. 158.
—, Lucy, infant, i. 37.
em | Rosa, i, 24, 35, 37:
——, Mrs. V. G. See Audubon, Georgiana.
—, Victor Gifford, i. 10, 29, 30, 38, 47, 48,
51, 53, 54) 60, 62, 66-71, 73, 759 76; 230,
291, 300, 302, 345, 453, 5205 il. 117, 168,
274, 277.
Audubon and Bakewell, i. 29.
Audubonian period, i. 64.
Audubon Park, i. 71.
Audubon’s Bluff, ii. 107.
Audubon’s Isle, ii. 338.
Auk, Great, ii. 131.
—— Razor-billed, i. 364.
Aux Cayes, i. 7, 8.
Avocet, i. 517+
Ayowah River, ii. 169.
Ayre River, i. 245, 246.
Ayres, W. O.,, ii. 41.
BAAMCHENUNSGAMOOK, Lake, ii. 302.
Bachman, John, D.D., i. 40, 56, 66-68, 70,
72, 76, 426, 441, 449, 467, 476, 510, 529;
ii. 29, 97, 173, 378.
—, Maria R., i. 70.
Backhouse, John, i. 285.
Bad River, i. 526.
Badger, ii. 35, 36, 146, 147, 166, 168, 170,
173.
Baird, Spencer F., ii. 12, 117 3 Birds of
North America, ii. 117.
Bakewell, i. 135, 138.
——, Benjamin, i. 22, 26, 28.
——, Lucy. See Audubon, Mrs. Lucy.
—,, Thomas W., i. 20, 29, 32, 33) 35, 46-
——, William, i. 17, 18, 24, 28, 39.
——,, William Gifford, i. 174, 454, 526.
Balacouda, i. 83; ii. 303, 305.
Balize, i. 87; ii. 301.
Ballin Newfoundland, i. 433.
Baltimore, i. 31c, 449, 453, 4773 ii. 219, 221.
Bamborough Castle, i. 225.
Bangor, ii. 390, 392, 393+
Bantams, i. 303.
Baptiste. See Moncrévier, Jean Baptiste.
Barbier, Antoine Alexandre, i. 314.
Barclay, Mr., i. 101, 102, 260, 261.
Barro, ii. 218, 221.
Barry’s Hotel, i. 190, 194.
Basil, ii. 93, 98-1or.
Basil River, i. 503; ii. 168.
Bat, i. 482, 500, 502; ii. 162.
Baton Rouge, ii. 251, 252.
Bay Verte, i. 440.
Bayfield, i. 376, 388, 392, 406, 407; il. 415.
Bayonne, i. rr.
Bayou Lafourche, ii, 252.
—— Sara, i. 49, 52, 58, 62, 81, 130, 231.
259, 3075 li. 251, 274.
Beal Family, ii. 200.
Bear, i. 175, 365, 375, 408, 412, 458; ii. 136—
138, 154-156, 158, 212, 222, 227, 228, 245,
261-263, 267, 269, 270, 272, 294, 319, 320,
324, 374, 382, 383, 390, 424, 439, 440, 441,
452, 457) 478-480, 482, 496.
—, Black, i. 378, 489, 490, 492; ii. 133,
173) 174, 481, 482, 484, 485.
—, Grizzly, i. 526; ii. 14, 25. 41, 51, 54,
60, 64-66, 72, 75, 86, 117, 121-123, 139,
146, 147.
story, ii. 136.
—— trap, i. 371.
Beaumont, Mr., ii. 172.
Beaver, i. 300, 378, 484, 501, 520, 5323 ii. 4,
54, 72, 76; 93) 95, 99) 100, 102, 1225 136,
158, 160, 161, 176.
— Creek, ii. 159.
Bedford, ii. 221.
“Bee” (steamer), ii. 50.
—— tree, ii. 481.
Beech woods, i. 52, 53, 231.
Beetle, Diamond, i. 129.
Beggar's Opera, i. 184, 185.
Behind the Veil, i. 29.
INDEX
531
Belford, i. 225.
Belgrade, ii. 276.
Bell, John G., i. 73; companion on Missouri
River trip, i. 453-532; ii. 4-176, 352.
Belle Isle, ii. 416.
— Vue, i. 477, 5173 ii. 172, 416.
Belles Fleurs, Redouté’s, i. 326.
Bengal, i. 307.
Bennett, Edward T., i. 294.
Bentley, Robert, i. 139-141, 246-248, 250-
254, 259 264, 274, 279-282, 341.
Berlin, i. 127.
Berry, Duchesse de, i. 337.
Berthoud, Nicholas Augustus, i. 34, 47, 54,
69, 88, 441, 4545 il. 29,175, 200, 215, 221,
247, 250, 453+
Berthoud family, i. 29.
Bertrand, Dr., i. 324.
Berwick, i. 225.
Best, Robert, i. 36, 37, 48.
Bewick, Robert, i. 231, 232.
— Thomas, i. 108, 229-233, 237, 238, 260,
263, 303; ii. 198.
Big Bend Creek, i. 513.
— Sioux River, i. 489, 501; ii. 169, 170.
Bighorns, ii. 24 49, 56, 65, 68, 71, 72) 74,
75, 78, 88, Tor, III, 114, 121-123, 128,
131, 132, 139, 140, 142, 147-152, 154.
Bijou’s Hill, ii. 167.
Billings, Capt. i. 365, 371, 372, 413.
Biography of Birds, ii. 97.
Bird of Washington, i. 266, 271.
— Rocks, i. 359.
Birds of America, i. 27, 28, 40, 59, 69, 70,
751 9%; 153, 160, 237, 277, 342, 345, 402,
427, 457) 459, 4703 li. 117, 198, 212, 526.
Birds of Colorado Valley, ii. 117.
Birds of North America, Baird’s, ii. 117.
Birds of the North West, Coues, i. 402.
Birmingham, i. 119.
Bismarck, ii. 5, 9.
Bittern, American, i. 434.
Black Bull Hotel, i. 144.
— Cock, i. 144, 206, 209, 210, 299.
— Harris, ii. 35, 173.
— Heath, i. 304.
— Hills, ii. 20, 136, 152.
—— Mts. ii. 5, 20.
—— Snake Hills, i. 471, 472, 475; ii. 173.
—— Warrior, i. 57.
Blackbird, i. 106, 134, 226, 236, 278, 297,
338; 33% 349, 447, 477; Brewer's, i. 474.
(chief), i. 485.
— Hill, i. 485.
Blackfoot Fort, ii. 42, 50.
Blackfoot indians, i. 501; ii. 33, 47, 48, 53,77,
78, 87, 89, 108, 112, 137, 144, 154, 178,
188, 189.
— River, ii. 114.
Black-poll Warbler, i. 178.
Blackwall, i. 385.
“ Blackwood’s Magazine,”’ i. 160, 161, 172,
180, 200, 240, 266.
Blair, Mr., i, 217.
Blanc Sablons, i. 416.
Blanchard, Mr,, i. 437.
Blind asylum, Liverpool, i. 106, 272.
Blood Indians, ii. 180, 188.
“Blow me down,”’ Cape, i. 444.
Blue Boar, i. 285.
— Jay, i. 353.
Bluebird, i. 476, 477, 496; ii. 7, 55, 163.
—, Arctic, ii. 50, 55, 67, 79.
Boar, Wild, ii. 482.
Bobolink, ii. 86.
Bodley, A. P., ii. 254.
Bohn, Henry George, i. 127, 128, 135.
Bolton, i. 142.
, Fox, Livingston, and Co, i. 511.
Bombarde, Alexis. See Alexis.
Bonaparte, Charles Lucien, i. 55, 56, 81,
118, 177, 185, 186, 194, 200, 244, 256,
257, 270, 292, 298, 301, 314, 324, 366,
368, 385, 403, 412, 416, 422.
—, Charles Lucien, Ornithology, i. 55.
—, Joseph, i. 169, 185.
—, Napoleon, i. 11, 15, 24, 40, 185, 186,
217, 238, 273, 317, 322) 324} il. 35, 203.
Bonasa umbellus, i. 401.
Bonaventure, ii. 42, 51, 58-61, 64.
Bonhomme Island, ii. 168.
Bonita, ii. 302.
Bonne Espérance, i. 413, 425.
Bonnet Carré, ii. 253.
Bonneville, Capt., ii. 4.
Boobies, ii. 347.
Booby, Island, ii. 347.
Boone, Daniel, i. 4593 ii. 241, 245, 455,
460, 461, 506.
Boone family, ii. 207.
Boone’s Lick, i. 459.
—— Salt works, i. 459.
Boonesborough, ii. 506.
Booneville, i. 559; ii. 174.
Booth family, ii. 200.
Boston, i. 67, 68, 73, 88, 345, 351, 411, 422,
441, 442, 4453 il. 382, 393, 401.
Boston Society of Natural History.
Society of Natural History, Boston.
Botanical gardens, i. 103.
Boucherville, ii. 78, 86, 131-133, 138.
Boulcar, Lady, i, 196, 197.
See
532
INDEX
Boulogne, i. 339.
Bourgeat, Alexandre, i. 81, 162, 211.
Bowie, Mr., i. 528; ii. 5.
Bowen, Lieut., i. 391, 392, 407.
—..J. T., i. 453.
Brackenridge, i. 486.
Bradbury, i. 486.
Brae House, i. 218.
Bragdon, Samuel L., i. 94.
Branard, Mr., i. 51.
Brand family, i. 52.
Brandywine, i. 280.
Birmingham, i. 251.
Branta canadensis, i. 457.
— hutchinsi, ii. 174.
Bras d’Or, i. 410-413, 421, 428; ii. 362,
416, 418.
Breaking of the ice,i. 31.
Brent, i. 357, 359, 378.
Brewer, Thomas M., i. 73, 526; ii. 48.
Brewster, Sir David, i. 164, 179-183, 189,
190, 209.
Bridges, David, i. 157-159, 161, 169, 172,
174, 178, 183, 188, 202, 204.
British Birds, MacGillivray’s, i. 65.
British Museum, i. 258, 284, 301, 342.
Brookes, Joshua, i. 117, 118, 123, 124, 280-
282.
Brouillerie, Baron de, i. 315, 321, 334-336,
338.
Brown, Andrew, i. 184.
——, George A., i. 287.
——,, Dr. John, i. 172.
Bruce, Thomas, i. 169.
Brussels, i. 111, 127, 301.
Bryon, Isle de, i. 362.
Buckland, William, i. 293.
Buffalo, i. 481, 490, 491, 493, 494, 496, 497)
500, 502-513, 517; 519, 522-524, 526-530,
5323 Hi. 4-16, 21-28, 31, 33-37; 43, 49) 525
55-62, 66, 69, 71, 73, 75, 78, 85-94, 102,
104, 105, 107-114, 118-124, 127-132, 139-
146, 150, 151, 154-161, 164-167, 169, 174,
175, 181, 206, 227, 245, 294, 456, 457.
— berries, ii. 160.
—— Bluffs, ii. 154.
— Lick, ii. 278.
Buford County, ii. 27.
Bulow, John, ii. 333, 352.
Bunting, i. 357, 387; ii. 408.
, Arctic Towhee, ii. 7, 8.
—-, Baird's, ii. 116.
— , Bay-winged, ii. 21.
——.,, Black-breasted Lark, ii. 105, 107.
—, Clay-colored, i. 477, 518.
Bunting, Cow, i. 216, 546.
—, Henslow’s, i. 477, 496; ii. 4.
——,, Indigo, i. 245.
—, Lark, i. 486.
—-, Rice, ii. 306.
, Shattuck’s, i. 518. See also Ember-
iza shattuckii.
, Snow, i. 352.
—, Towhee, i. 372, 471.
— , White-crowned, i. 387, 391, 398, 399,
405.
Burgwin, Capt. J. H. K., i. 478-480; ii.
172.
Burnt Hills, ii. 167.
Burton, i. 142.
, Dr. and Mrs, Edward, i. 293.
Bustard, Great, ii. 466.
Butte Quarré, ii. 157.
Buxton, i. 139.
Buzzard, i. 509; ii. 106, 107.
——, Turkey, i. 176, 180, 183, 187, 458,
471, 4833 ii. 7, 75,168. See also Cathartes
aura,
CaBAane Bluff, ii. 171.
Cabris, ii. 96, 113.
— Creek, i. 525.
Cainard, M., i. 320.
Calais, i. 304, 305, 340.
Calcarius ornatus, ii. 51.
“Caledonia”? (steamer), i. 351.
California, i. 75.
Calvert, Mr., i. 260.
Calton, Thomas, i. 287.
Cam River, i. 286.
Cambridge, Eng., i. 216, 285; 286, 290, 292,
295.
Camden, N. J., i. 613 ii. 310.
Camel, ii. 400.
Cameron, i. 159, 173.
Campbell, Sir Archibald, ii. 387.
——, Ellen, i. 201.
—— (steamer), i. 70.
Camptolemus labradorius, i. 418.
Canachites canadensis, i. 352.
Canada, i. 71, 356, 492; ii. 416.
Canadians, French, i. 375, 401, 408.
Canfield, C. A., ii, 42.
Canis latrans, i. 483.
— lupus, i. 483.
— nubilus, i. 483.
Cannon Ball River, ii. 5, 158, 159.
Canoe Creek, ii. 238.
Canseau Cape, i. 351-353.
—, Strait of, i. 435.
INDEX
533
Canso. See Canseau.
Canterbury, i. 304.
Cape Breton Island, i. 353, 354.
— Florida Songster, i. 88.
Caprimulgus, ii. 163.
Cariacus macrotis, i. 44.
Caribou, i. 378, 389, 403, 497-409, 432, 4333
ii, 394, 399, 400, 412, 418.
—— flies, i. giz: ii, go4.
Carleton, Lieut. James Henry, ii. 172, 173.
Carlisle, Eng., i. 141-144.
—, Penn., ij. 117.
Carolinas, ii. 445.
Carré, Charles, i. 523 ii. 249, 251, 253-
Carrier, Gen. Jean B., i. 10.
Carritre, Michel, ii. 136, 137.
Carroll Co., Mo., i. 462.
Cash Creek, i. 313 ii. 274.
Cat-bird, i. 219, 245, 470; ii. 7, 253.
Catchfly, i. 399.
Catfish, i. 282; ii, 213.
Cathartes aura, i. 458. See also Buzzard,
Turkey.
Catlin, George, i. 497, 498; ii. 10, 15, 24,
27, 49, 96, 108, 180,
“Cavalier,” ii. 305.
Cavendish Square, i. 69.
Cedar birds, i. 475.
—— Island, i. 505, 508; ii. 166, 167.
Centrocircus urophasianus, ii, 126,
Ceritronyx bairdii, ii, 117.
Cerré, M., i. 493, 494, 498.
Cervus macrotis, i. 484.
—— virginianus, ii. 473.
Chaffinch, i. 226.
Chamois, ii. 56, 153.
Champ de Mars, i. 326.
Chapel En-La-Frith, i. 136.
Charadrius, i. 423.
—— semipalmatus, i. 386, 398, 412.
Charbonneau River, ii. 93, 98, 101.
Charbonniére River, ii. 175.
Chardon, Mr., i. 524, 526, 528, 529; ii. 11-
16, 22, 24, 38, 40-44, 47, 50; 71.
Charing Cross, i. 303.
Chariton River, i. 462; ii. 174.
“Charity, Mr.,” i. 510, 511.
Charles I., i. 235, 236.
Charleston, S. C., i. 66-723 ii. 97, 347.
Charrette, F. A. de, i. 273.
Charwell River, i. 292.
Chastelleux, Marquis de, i. 270.
Chat, Yellow-breasted, i. 470, 504; ii. 7.
Chenopdduum album, ii. 14.
Chester, Eng., i. 249.
Chevalier, M., i. 410, 413.
Cheyenne River, i. 529; ii. 133, 136.
Chicha River, i. 527.
Chickadee, i. 400.
Chickasaw, ii. 260.
Children, John George, i. 252, 254, 257, 258,
264, 276, 277, 294, 301, 342
Chillicothe, ii, 218.
Chippeway Indian, ii, 126, 127.
Chittenden, Capt. Hiram M., i. 479, 492.
Choctaw Indians, ii. 260.
Chorley, Henry, i. 269.
—, John, i. 248, 249, 264, 269, 273, 276-
Chouans, i. 10.
Chouteau, Auguste, ii. 33.
——, Pierre, i. 452, 454, 463, 468, 499; il.
33) 35+
——, Madam Pierre, i. 468; ii. 173.
Chouteau’s River, i. 503.
Chuckmill’s Widow, i. 132.
Cincinnati, i. 36, 37, 48-50, 454; ii. 175,
250, 454.
Clancarty, Lord, i. 171, 183.
Clapham, i. 254.
Clarence, Duchess of, i. 259.
Claridge, Mr., ii. 436.
Clark, David, i. 46.
——, Jonathan, i. 31.
——,, Lady Mary, i. 187.
—, William, i. 31.
Clay, Henry, i. 126, 157, 272.
Clayton, John, i. 263.
Clementi, Muzio, i. 115.
Clifton, Lord, i. 257.
Clinton, De Witt, i. 120, 167, 192.
Clyde River, i. 266.
Cocks of the plain, ii. 126.
Cod, i. 3573 ii. 419, 422-425.
Colaptes aurato-mexicanus, ii. 41.
ayresii, ii. 53.
——cafer, ii, 53. See also Woodpecker,
Red-shafted.
—— hybridus, ii. 41.
Cold Water River, ii. 260, 261.
Colinus virginianus, i. 457.
Collins, John, ii. 53, 57, 68, 70, 72, 76, 82,
86, 102, 124.
Colmesnil, Louis, i. 19.
“Columbia” (ship), i. 60, 342; fi. 56.
— College, i. 77.
—— Fur Co., i. 499.
—— River, i. 302.
Colymbus glacialis, i. 389, 392.
— septentrionalis, i. 390. See also Diver,
Red-throated,
534
INDEX
Combe, Andrew, i. 191, 207.
——, George, i, 157, 160, 164, 166, 168, 188,
191, 204, 225.
Condolleot, M., i. 309, 316.
Connecticut, ii. 262.
Constant, M., i. 327.
Contopus richardsonii, i. 405, 406.
— virens, i. 406,
Coolidge, Capt., i, 350; ii. 432.
Joseph, i. 67,68; companion in Labra-
dor, 345-420; 428, 436, 439.
Cooper, J. F., ii. 207.
— Co., Mo., i. 459.
Coot, i. 472, 532; ii. 7, 337.
—, White-winged, i. 418.
Cormorant, i. 157, 370, 384-386, 393-395,
4593 ii. 337, 353, 360, 361, 404, 433.
——, Double-crested, i. 398, 400.
, Florida, i. 459.
Corn-shucking, ii. 463.
Cornwall, Eng., i. 142.
Corpus Christi, i. 288.
Couéron, i. 11.
Coues, Dr. Elliott, i. 29, 64, 402.
Cougar, i. 74; ii. 260-269, 374, 441, 478.
Council Bluffs, i. 475, 477, 478, 482,
Covent Garden Theatre, i. 253, 291, 315.
Cowbirds, i. 477, 481.
Craighlockhart, i. 164.
Crane, Sand-hill, i. 475; ii. 9, 95, I71, 174-
— Whooping, i. 87.
Cree Indians, ii, 109, 123, 132.
Creeper, Black-and-White, i. 471.
——, Chestnut-sided, i. 471.
~—, Yellow-back, i. 471.
Crisp, Major, i. 516.
Croghan, Major, i. 30.
family, ii. 200, 207.
Cross, Mr., i. 279-281.
Crossbills, i. 396, 400, 416, 433.
——, White-winged, i. 385, 412, 415, 431,
434.
Crow, i. 379, 385, 434, 471; 475s 4763 li. 36,
212, 323) 353) 503-
—— Blackbird, i. 477, 480, 481.
—, Carrion, i. 181, 183, 190, 352; ii. 249,
252. r ,
——,, Fish, ii. 170, 365.
—— Fort, ii. 50, 65, 178.
Indians, ii. 10, 33, 48, 54, 178, 180.
“Crow-feather ’? (boat), i. 499.
Cruden, Alexander, i. 212.
Cruikshank, George, ii. 236,
Cuba, i. 88; ii. 306, 309.
Cuckoo, i. 180, 245.
Cuckoo, Black-billed, ii. 8.
Culbertson, Alexander, 1843, i. 528; ii. 29,
177; 182, 188.
— _, Mrs. Alexander, ii. 81, 85, 88, 89, 111,
112, 121, 154, 157, 163.
Cumberland, i. 454.
— Isle, ii. 277.
— River, ii. 277.
Cummings, Capt. Samuel, i. 48, 49 ; ii. 175.
Curlew, i. 96, 176, 419, 423, 427, 428 ; ii. 63,
310, 350, 426.
——,, Esquimaux, i.
Numenius borealis.
——, Labrador, i. 425.
—, Long-billed, i. 489.
, Rose-colored, ii. 364.
Curlew-berry, i. 423.
Currie, W. W., i. 269, 270.
Cushat, i. 338.
Cutting, Mr., i. 520, 521, 524; ii. 37, 168,
Cuvier, Baron, i. 235, 294, 306-308, 312,
315-326, 331; 333, 334; 338; 339s 519, 522.
——, Baroness, i. 39, 319, 325.
—, Mlle., i. 309, 316-319, 324.
Cymochorea leucorrhoa, i. 396.
420, 422. See also
Da CosTA, i. 19, 21-24, 26, 27, 39.
Dakota River, i. 501.
Dalmahoy Castle, i. 186, 192, 195.
Damelaphus hemionus, i, 484.
Darlington, i. 238.
Dauphine St., New Orleans, i. 49.
David, Jacques Louis, i. 24, 36, 39, 313,
3243 li. 524, 527.
Davy, Messrs., i. 246.
Day, Capt. Robert, ii. 346, 371. .
Dearman, Mr., i. 129.
Decatur, i. 485.
Deer, i. 182, 375, 378, 389, 407, 461, 473
481, 482, 490, 493-496, 501, 502, 504, 507?
512, 516, 517, 527; ii. 8,20, 23, 26, 35-42,
49-57, 65, 74, 75, 80, 92, 117, 126, 139,
154, 155, 158, 165-168, 174, 175, 205, 206,
222, 245, 261, 262, 266, 269, 270, 273,
300, 319, 324, 347, 350, 382, 383, 390,
396, 399; 400, 439, 441, 452, 457, 461, 468-
472, 481, 482.
——., Black-tailed, i. 516; ii. 57, 72, 74,
147, 165, 484.
——, Long White-tailed, ii. 65, 74, 75, 127,
176.
—, Mule, i. 484; ii. 167. |
—, Virginia, i. 485; ii. 473.
Deer-hunting, ii. 466, 473.
INDEX
535
De Tabelay, Lord, i. 113.
Delano, Captain, i. 342.
“Delos” (ship), i. 81, 82, 85, 88; ii, 301, 306.
Denig, Edwin F., ii. 56, 72, 73, 77, 81, 85,
89, 133, 136, 137, 178, 180-183.
Dennysville, Me., i. 67, 345, 389, 401;
ii. 384, 400.
Derby, i. 111, 129.
— _,Earlof,i. 103, 105, 108-110, 116,282, 296.
Derbyshire, i. 122, 139.
Derwent River, i. 137, 138.
D’Essling, Prince, i. 312, 313.
Détaillé, Frangois, ii. 147.
Devonshire, Duke of, i. 137.
Dexter's Lake, ii. 338.
Dickie, Mrs., i. 63, 145,156,167, 174, 188, 201.
Didelphis virginiana, ii. 501.
D'Issy, i. 336.
Diver, ii, 403.
—, Black-necked, i. 387.
—, Great Northern, i. 389.
—, Red-necked, i. 371, 387, 389, 398, 400,
432.
——, Red-throated, i. 390, 391, 393.
Dockray, Mr., i. 135, 136, 138.
Dodo, ii. 524.
Dog and Pheasants, i. 341.
Dog, Esquimaux, i. 408, 411}; ii. 412.
, Prairie, i. 532. See also Arctomys
ludovicianus.
Dolphin, i. 82-85, 88, 90, 91, 94; ii. 302-307.
Don, David, i. 277.
Donkin, John, i. 235, 237, 262.
Dood, Major, i. 191.
D'Or, Cape, i. 444.
D'Orbigny, Charles, i. 39, 333+
Dorion. See Durion.
Douglass, Lady Isabella, i. 116, 171.
Dove, i. 88, 148, 247, 297, 5323 il. 44, 64,
162, 163, 166, 253, 350.
Dover, i. 303, 304.
— Castle, i. 304.
Drake, Dr., i. 36, 48.
Dripps, Major Andrew, i. 499.
Drury Lane Theatre, i. 315.
Dublin, i. 216.
Duck, i. 86, 89, 359, 367, 394) 396) 419, 452,
454, 462, 476, 487, 494) 497, 502; 5043 ii,
21, 39, 86, 95, 154, 155, 159, 167, 170,
171, 174, 175, 252, 347) 3531 41% 434) 447-
—, Black, ii. 160.
——, Canvas-back, i. 452; ii. 505.
—, Dusky, i. 366.
——, Eider, i. 366, 371-373, 376, 379 387,
393) 394) 406; ii. 431.
Duck, Gadwall, i. 532; ii. 7, 107, 155.
——, Golden-eyed, i. 431.
—, Harlequin, i. 414.
——,, King, i. 418.
—, Labrador, i. 418.
——, Long-tailed, i. 414.
——,, Mallard, i. 476, 485; ii. 7,112,155, 171.
——,, Pied, i. 418.
—, Scoter, i. 366, 370, 371, 390.
——,, Spoon-billed, ii. 4.
——, Summer, ii. 496.
— , Surf, i. 366.
——, Velvet, i. 359, 364, 414, 418.
——, Wild, i. 277; ii. 28, 350.
——, Wood, i. 472, 485; ii. 278.
Duddingston, i. 213.
Dumesnil, C., i. 315.
Dunbar, i. 225.
Duncan, Andrew, i. 146, 148, 151.
Dupuy Gaudeau, Gabriel, i. 14, 24.
Durack, John, 1. 528.
Durham, Eng,, i. 328.
Durion, i. 525.
EAGLE, i. 113, 169, 182, 271, 352, 388, 415,
436, 4583 ii. 156, 181, 353, 391, 441.
——, Andean, i. 271.
——, Bald, i. 415, 458.
—, Golden, ii. 107, 157, 431.
——, White-headed, i. 281, 282, 295, 297,
471, 4763 ii. 8, 10, 131, 166, 176, 203, 215,
2476
Eagle and Lamb, i. 299, 341.
Eastham, i. 250.
Eastport, Me., i. 345, 349, 353 355» 365
366, 435, 4443 Hl. 401, 419, 432, 437-
Ebbett’s Island, ii. 165.
Ficole Militaire, i. 326.
Edinburgh, i. 63, 69, 71, 111, 143-150, 152,
155, 160, 179-181, 195, 196, 200, 201, 210,
214, 216, 219, 221, 223, 225, 230-233, 243,
249, 253-256, 260, 264-266, 271, 287,
295+
Edinburgh Academy of Arts. See Academy
of Arts, Edinburgh.
Edinburgh Antiquarian Society.
quarian Society, Edinburgh.
Edinburgh Natural History Society. See
Natural History Society, Edinburgh.
Edinburgh Review, i. 200, 201.
Edinburgh Royal Society. See Royal Society
of Edinburgh.
Edinburgh Wernerian Society. See Wer-
nerian Society.
See Anti-
536
INDEX
Edward, Prince, i. 442.
Edwardsville, i. 451, 454.
Eel, i. 389.
Eel River, ii. 389, 393.
Egan, Pilot, ii. 312, 379.
Eggers, i. 405, 410.
Egleston, Thomas, i. 77.
Egret, Peale’s, ii. 361.
Elgin, Earl of, i. 169, 170, 171.
Elk, i. 481, 484, 485, 490, 492, 494) 504
507, 522, 527, 532; li. 8, 12, 19-27, 30,
36, 65, 123, 131, 132, 147, 154-157) 160-
163, 206, 319.
Elk-horns, i. 524, §26, 527, 5293 ii. 170, 173-
Elk Point, ii. 169.
Elliot, Daniel G., i. 64, 77.
Emanuel Creek, i. 503.
Emberiza bairdii ii. 116.
— Le Conteii, i. 510.
orizivora, ii. 86.
— pallida, i. 496, 498, 517, 518; ii. 21.
shattuckii, i. 68, 517, 518.
Emery, Capt., i. 67, 345.
“Emily Christian ”? (steamboat), i. 457.
Empetrum nigrum, i. 423.
England, i. 58-60, 63, 67, 69, 70, 81, 91,
97, 113, 114, 128, 216, 228, 232, 240, 241,
245, 250, 251, 260, 261, 266, 270, 300,
304s 305, 309) 313) 317) 402, 430, 4375 Ue
109, 301.
Entrée Bay, i. 354.
Epsom, i. 254.
Ereunetes pusillus, i, 425.
Esquimaux, ii. 402.
Europe, i. 94, 338; ii. 207, 527.
Evans, Roland, i. 41, 42.
Ewart, Miss, i. 148.
Exeter Exchange, i. 280.
Expedition of Lewis and Clark, i. 457, 478,
482, 484, 488, 4945 ii. 3, 10, 27, 47, 38.
FALco, i. 302.
—— auduboni, i. 385.
— columbarius, i.
also Hawk, Pigeon.
—— gyrfalco obsoletus, i. 427.
—— harlani, i. 57.
—— islandicus, i. 427.
—— labradoria, i. 427.
—— leucocephalus, i. 381.
—— temerarius, i. 385.
Falcon, i. 297, 302.
—, Labrador, i. 424.
——,, Peregrine, i. 390, 391, 398, 399, 410,
428, 458, 471; ii. 156, 176, 306.
385, 399, 401. See
False River, ii. 260.
“ Fancy, The’’ (boat), ii. 435, 436.
Fatland Ford, i. 17, 19, 20, 26, 28, 32, 42,
43, 226.
Fauna Americana, i. 460; ii. 473.
Featherstonehaugh, Mr., i. 257.
Felton, i. 228.
Fénelon, Frangois, Abbé, ii. 249.
Ferguson, Dr. ii. 200.
Fetter Lane, i. 285.
Fiesque, i. 308.
Fifty Years in Both Hemispheres, Nolte’s
ii. 220.
Finch, i. 286, 357, 382, 420, 485; ii. 256, 306.
, Arctic Ground, ii. 31.
—, Ground, i. 496; ii. 16.
——, Harris, i. 472, 475, 476, 481, 495, 496,
499, 500.
—, Lark, i. 509.
—,, Lazuli, ii. 4, 31, 35, 37, 51, 56,67, 79.
——, Lincoln’s, i. 410, 470, 486, 498. See
also Fringilla lincolnii.
——,, Mountain, i. 338.
—. Red-collared, ii. 51.
——, Savannah, i. 352, 353, 384, 385, 392,
414, 477.
——, White-crowned, i. 470, 499.
——, White-throated, i. 499.
Fish River, ii. 5.
Fisher, Miers, i. 16, 17.
Fitzwilliam, Lord, i. 289.
Flamingo, ii. 360, 366.
Flat Lake, i. 162.
Flicker, ii. q1.
—, Red-shafted, ii. 42.
Flint, Mr., ii. 281, 282, 285, 286.
Florida, i. 66, 88, 92, 370, 397, 4253 ii. 176,
253, 305, 306, 309, 332, 333s 345, 358, 364,
370 371, 378, 380, 418, 508.
——, Cape, ii. 374.
——, East, i. 423; ii. 321, 327, 329-332, 352.
——, Keys, i. 90; ii. 313, 349, 358, 365.
——, South, ii. 365.
Florisson, i. 451.
Floyd, Serg. Charles, i. 488.
—— Memorial Association, i. 488.
Floyd’s Bluff, i. 489.
— Creek, i. 488.
—— Grave, ii. 170.
Flycatcher, i. 90, 434; ii. §26.
—, Arkansas, i. 506, 510, 529; ii. 56, 70,
86, 156.
——, Bluegray, i. 471, 476.
——, Bonaparte’s, i. 244.
——, Green blackcapped, i. 405, 421.
INDEX
537
Flycatcher, Hooded, i. 471.
——, Pewee, ii. 51, 248.
——,, Red-eyed, i. 471.
——,, Say’s, i. 504, 510, 5173 ii. 16, 51, 52,
67, 166.
——, Small-crested, ii. 7.
——, White-crested, i. 471.
Flying fish, ii. 302-305.
Fontenelle, Lucien, i. 499.
Foote, Maria, i. 107, 203, 205.
Fort Alexander, ii. 69, 113.
Berthold, i. 526.
—— Calhoun, i. 482.
—— Clark, ii. 10, 42, 57, 132, 146, 147.
—— Croghan, i. 478; ii. 171, 172.
— George, i. 519-521; ii. 165, 169.
— Leavenworth, i. 468, 500; ii. 172, 173.
— Massacre, ii. 276, 506.
— McKenzie, ii. 127, 133, 178, 188, 189,
194, 195+
—— Mortimer, ii. 31, 53-55, 65, 68, 70, 72,
78, 86-88, 101, 11, 112, 123-128, 131,
147, 148.
—— Pierre, i. 499, 500, 502, 510, 513, 519,
520, 524, 528; li. ro, 11, 14, 96, 97, 147,
163, 167.
— Recovery, i. 512.
— Rice, ii. 5.
Union, ii. 19, 20, 23, 27, 29, 50, 54,57,
93, Lot, 106, 132, 137, 147, 154, 161, 165,
178, 180, 187, 191, 524, 528.
— Vermilion, i. 510; ii. 168.
— Yates, ii. 6.
Four Bears (chief), ii. 157.
Fox, i. 375, 378, 408; ii. 102, 105, 166, 173,
415, 497; 5°3-
—, Black, i. 356, 357, 408.
—, Cross, i. 411; ii. 12.
— , Gray, ii. 147.
—, Kit. See Fox, Swift.
—, Prairie, ii. 12.
—,, Red, i. 356, 3573 ii. 76, 147.
—, Silver, i. 408.
—, Swift, ii. 11, 37, 58, 116, 130, 131, 521.
—-, Dr. Charles, i. 155, 193.
— Indians, i. 475.
— River, ii. 102, 106.
Fox-hunter, ii. 495.
France, i. 23, 24, 27, 39; 40, 66, 111, 130,
239, 283, 305, 307, 309) 310, 315, 317) 325,
333; lie 412, 415.
Franconi, i. 319.
Frankfort, Kentucky, ii. 274, 460.
Frankland, Captain, ii. 432, 433+
Frascati, i. 320.
Fraser, James B., i. 217.
Fratercula arctica, i. 383.
Frederick, ii. 218.
Fredericton, ii. 387, 389.
French Creek, 1i. 291.
Revolution, i. 308.
Frigate-bird, ii. 309.
Fringilla, i. 391.
— acanthis linaria, i. 396.
—— harrisii, i. 470, 472, 4993 ii. 172, 415.
—— linaria, i. 414.
lincolnii, i. 68, 382, 385, 388, 470. See
also Finch, Lincoln’s.
—— leucophyrs, i. 398, 399.
—— nivalis, i. 352.
—— querula, i. 472.
savanna, i. 399.
Frith of Forth, i. 145, 149, 223, 266.
Fuligula americana, i. 366. See a/so Duck,
Scoter.
—— glaciales, i. 418.
histrionica, i, 414, 418.
Fulmar, i. 352.
Fundy, Bay of, i. 350, 438, 440, 4433 fi. 431,
434-437:
Fur and Fish Company, i. 373, 375, 350.
Fur Company, American. See American
Fur Company.
GALLATIN, ALBERT, Mr. and Mrs., i. 253.
Gallinule, ii. 337, 365.
Galt, W.C., M.D., ii. 200,
Galveston, i. 70.
Gannet, i. 88, 157, 351, 352, 355) 358-363;
372) 377, 412, 4133 Ul. 419.
, Brown, ii. 372.
— Rocks, i. 359.
Gar-fish, ii, 480.
Garnier, Mr., ii. 247-254.
Gasconade River, i. 457; ii. 175.
Gaspé, Cape, i. 407.
Gates, Major, ii. 358.
Gauché (chief), ii. 133.
Gavia imber, i. 379.
— lumme, i. 379.
Geomys, bursarius, i. 453, 463.
George, Cape, i. 353.
Street, Edinburgh, i, 145, 155.
Georgia, i. 32; ii. 445.
Gérard, Frangois, i. 324, 325, 330, 331+
German Ocean, i. 149, 264.
Gilpin’s Mills, i. 280.
Glasgow, Missouri, ii. 174.
Glasgow, Scotland, i. 179, 195, 216, 266,
267, 324) 460.
538
INDEX
Glasgow Hotel, i. 451.
“Gleaner, The” (ship), i. 86-88.
Goat, i. 154.
Goat-pen Creek, ii. 24.
Goddard, Rev. William, i, 102, 106, 341.
Godwit, ii. 176, 364, 365.
——,, Tell-tale, i. 365, 371, 431; 433) 475-
Goldfinch, i. 475.
‘ Goose, i. 359, 366, 370-373, 378, 411, 414,
452) 455) 457) 472,475) 477) 484, 485, 487,
489, 494, 502, 506, 531, 532; ii. 7, 8, 21,
24, 28, 125, 159, 108, 170-175, 447.
—, Canada, i. 418, 434.
—, Hutchins’, ii. 174.
—, Snow, i. 418.
—, White-fronted, i. 459.
» Wild, i. 282, 353.
Gopher, i. 465, 470, 475; ii. 335.
—, Pocket, i. 455.
— Hills, i. 471, 481.
Gordon, Alexander, i. 98, 106, 249.
Goshawk, i. 473.
Grackle. See Grakle.
Graham, Robert, i. 162, 163.
Grakle, i. 297.
——, Boat-tailed, ii. 252.
, Rusty, ii. 49.
Grand Banks, i. 92.
Falls, ii, 392.
—— Menan, i. 346, 350; ii. 431.
— Prix, i. 332.
—— River, i. 462, 531; ii. 174.
“Grand Town,” i. 506.
Grande Isle, ii. 190.
Grant, Mrs. Anne, i. 219.
Grasswrack, ii. 377.
Gray, John E., i. 3c 1.
Great Bend, i. 468; ii. 165, 166.
Cedar Island, i. 512.
Egg Harbor, i. 61.
Great Egg Harbor, ii. 310.
Great Falls, ii. 189, 190.
Pine Swamp, i. 61, 453+
Great Pine Swamp, ii. 314.
Great Russell Street, London, i. 252, 275.
Grebe, i. 472, 532.
Green Bank, i. 107, 108, 111-116, 119, 120,
127-134, 160, 224-227, 238, 248, 269, 274,
293.
—— Lake, i. 440.
River, i. 53; ii. 242, 246, 277, 279, 461,
506, 507, 519.
Greenough, Horatio, i. 10.
Greenville, ii. 174.
Greenwood, Rev. Henry, i. 286.
Gregg, Helen, i. 135.
—, John, i. 158.
——, Robert H., i. 124.
——, Samuel, i. 118, 121, 123, 126, 146,
167, 169, 175, 188, 247, 264, 270.
, Mrs. Samuel, i. 135, 283.
Greville, Robert Kaye, i. 192.
Griseo albus, i. 483.
Grosbeak, ii. 166, 400, 434.
, Black-headed, i. 523; ii. 50.
» Blue, i. 510,
—, Cardinal, i. 471; ii. 253.
——., Evening, i. 523.
——, Rose-breasted, i. 477.
—, Pine, i. 421, 431, 433-
Gros Ventres Indians, ii. 5, 16-18, 23-25, 48,
68, 132, 144, 156, 157, 164, 178, 188.
Ground-hog, i. 461, 471.
Grouse, i. 414, 451; ii. 66, 67, 88, go, 95,
14, 125, 206, 320, 340, 375, 376; 379,
390-394, 398, 399) 403, 502.
——, Canada, i. 352, 405.
——, Rock, i. 405.
—., Ruffed, i. gor.
——, Sage, ii. 126.
—— ., Sharp-tailed, ii. 23, 26, 49, 54, 86, 87,
122, 163, 165, 166, 176,
—, Willow, i. 400, 405, 414, 433} ii. 408.
, Wilson’s, i. 376.
Growler,” ii. 510, 512.
Guillemot, i. 355, 361-363, 377, 384, 386,
3933 li. 404, 407-412, 431.
» Black, i. 354, 355, 358
—, Bridled, i. 372.
—, Foolish, i. 351, 354, 362-364, 383.
Gulf Stream, i. 86.
Gulf Weed, i. 89.
Gull, i. 361, 363, 396, 399, 402-405, 414,
420, 421, 427, 472; ii. 166, 252, 364, 365,
403, 404, 410, 415, 427, 432, 433.
, Black-headed, i. 477, 484, 493, 502,
504, 532+
——, Great Black-backed, i. 352, 393, 394.
—, Herring, i. 350, 368. See a/so Larus
argentatus.
—, Ring-billed, i. 398, 402.
——, Rose-breasted, ii. 309.
——,, Silvery, i. q11.
“Gulnare”’ (ship), i. 376, 377, 379, 380-
384, 386, 391-395, 407, 421, 425.
Gwathway’s Hotel, i. 29.
Gyrfalcon, i. 427.
Haines, Reuben, i. 58.
Haliaétus leucocephalus, i. 415, 458.
INDEX
530
Halibut, ii. 419.
Halifax, i. 373, 413, 435) 439-442+
— Bay, i. 442.
—, Bishop of, i. 359.
—— River, il. 335, 374
Hall, Basil, i. 175, 176, 179, 184, 187, 201-
203, 206, 209, 212, 214, 221, 253, 300,
301.
—, Mrs. Basil, i. 187, 188, 207, 219.
——, Caroline, i. 73.
—, Ellen, i. 265.
—, James, Edinburgh, i. 146, 171, 173.
— , James, New York, i. 449, 526.
Hamilton, Major, i. 519, 521.
—, Sir William, i. 225.
Hampstead, i. 297.
Hardwick, i. 138.
Hardwicke, Lord, i. 282.
Hare, i. 116, 135, 137, 268, 356, 386, 4or,
408, 432, 474) 4943 Hi. 49, 51, 72, 76, 84,
riz, 118, 121, 465, 502, 503.
—, Bachman’s, i. 461.
—, Prairie, i. 474, 510.
—, Townsend’s, i. 510, 529} ii. 22, 56, 60,
89, 118,138. See a/so Lepus townsendii.
—, White, i. 529.
Harelda hiemalis, i. 414.
Harlan, Richard, i. 57, 65, 124, 247, 300; ii.
473, 501.
Harlem, ii. 175.
Harper’s Ferry, ii. 218.
Harpy, i. 271.
Harris, Edward, i. 56,57, 70, 73, 346, 441,
444, 451, 453) 455, 458, 461; companion
on Missouri trip, i. 470-5313 ii. 7, 75.
Harrisburg. See Harrisonburg.
Harrisonburg, ii. 218.
Hartford, Eng., i 304.
Harvey, Primeau and Co.,, ii. 6.
Hatch, Capt. Joseph, i. 81, 85, 86; ii. 307,
307.
Havana, ii. 360.
Havell, Robert, i. 61, 257-260, 265, 275,
276, 278, 291, 294, 295, 299; 300, 316, 340-
345) 427-
Haw Creek, ii. 334.
Hawick, i. 143.
Hawk, i. 96, 139, 156, 388, 399, 423) 4275
428; il. 27, 44, 67, 117, 404, 527-
——, Cooper’s, i. 517.
, Fish, i. 431, 4773 ii. 166, 247, 312,
337; 391-
— , Fork-tailed, i. 504.
—., Great-footed, i. 88.
—, Marsh, i. 444) 474, 496, 506.
Hawk, Pigeon, i. 365, 385, 396, 399, 43%,
475; ii. 162, See also Falco columbarius.
—, Red-tailed, i. 394, 4713 ii. 114.
——,, Sparrow, i. 428; ii. 7, 24.
——,, Swallow-tailed, i. 481.
——,, White-rumped, ii. 86, 87.
Hawk and Partridges, i. 269.
Hawkins, Oriel College, i. 292, 293.
Hays, Drummond, i. 197, 198, 203, 207,
211, 215, 219, 221, 222, 283.
Head Harbor Bay, ii. 433.
Healy, George P. A,, i. 58.
Heart River, ii. 9.
Heath, Charles, i. 233.
Heath, George, i. 287, 290.
Heights of Abraham, i. 138.
Hell Gate, i. 200.
Henderson, Ky., i. 7, 21, 30-38, 44, 46, 47,
162, 480; ii, 203, 206-213, 215, 218-221,
238, 278, 462, 498.
Henley Harbor, i. 402.
Henry, Alexander, i. 497.
—, Andrew, ii. 4.
—, Charles, M. D., i. 146, 156.
Henslow, John Stevens, i. 287, 290.
Herbe Sainte, ii. 39.
Hermandez, General, ii. 352.
Hermann Bros, i. 253.
Heron, i. 113, 157, 3373 ti. 313, 323, 354,
360; 364-366, 370, 378, 384, 526, 527.
—, Blue, i. 344, 471, 477, 490, 493, 5325
i. 7-
——, Great Blue, i. 354.
—, Green, i. 87.
—, Night, ii. 364.
—, Yellow-crowned, i. 481.
Herring, i. 357 ; ii. 305, 419.
Hibbert, Dr., i. 181.
Highland Creek, ii. 238.
— Lick, ii. 278.
Lick Creek, ii. 278.
Highwater Creek, i. 525.
Hirundo bicolor, i. 472.
Hobart, William, i. 94.
Hodgson, Adam, i. 104-106, 108-111, 249.
—, Mary, i. 133-
Holland, Dr. Henry, i. 135.
Holyrood, i. 149-152.
Honda, Bay of, ii. 349.
Hondekoeter, Melchior, i. 204.
Hopkinsville, ii. 53.
Horsfield, i. 255.
Hotel Robart, i. 304.
Houlton, Me., ii. 389, 390.
Howe, Gen. William, i. 43.
540
INDEX
Hudson River, i. 77, 322, 353.
Hudson’s Bay, i. 417.
—— Bay Co. i. 365, 378; ii. 109.
Hall, i. 430.
Hulme, Dr., i. 119, 123, 140.
Humboldt, Alexander von, i. 108, 1114.
Humming-bird, i. 402, 436, 4753 ii. 338.
Hunt, W. H., i. 105. :
Hunter, Lady, i. 175, 179, 187, 195.
IBIs, i. 113, 273, 337; 338) 360, 364-367,
S15.
alba, ii. 514, 515.
Ile 4 Vaches, i. 9.
lllingsworth, Mr., i. 520-524; ii. 165.
Illinois, i. 46, 451.
> River; il..497.
Independence, i. 467.
—— Landing, ii. 173.
Indian affairs, ii. 188.
—— Isle, ii. 312, 369, 379.
—— Key, ii. 348, 358, 362.
— River, ii. 374.
Indians, i. 138, 148, 353, 373, 378, 379, 407;
AIL, 431-433; 456, 462, 467, 469, 477, 486,
488, 493, 496, 498, 597, 519, 520, 523, 528;
ii. 7, 10, 12, 17-23, 43-455 48, 54) 775 80,
81, 108-110, 117, 121, 122, 125, 128, 132,
133, 135) 140, 143, 154-157, 164-168, 181-
185, 189, 191, 193, 194, 206, 213, 224-
229, 242-245, 296, 340, 349, 374, 395, 398,
434, 449, 455-458. See also names of
tribes.
Indigo-bird, i. 472, 476; ii. 37.
Ingalls, William, i. 67, 345, 356, 388, 389,
406, 412, 436, 437, 439-441; fi. 403.
Inglis, Bishop, i. 442.
——, Sir Robert, i. 254, 255.
Innes, Gilbert, i. 170, 171.
Institut Frangais, i. 313, 322, 332.
Towa, i. 462, 478, 489.
—— Indians, i. 474, 475.
— River, ii. 169.
Ipswich, i. 422, 423.
Treland, i. 96.
Tridoprocne bicolor, i. 472.
Trish Channel, i. 133.
, Jediah, i. 453; ii. 315, 320.
Iron Bear (chief), ii. 157.
Irving, Washington, i. 456; ii. 3, 207.
——., Washington, Astoria, i. 456, 486.
Irwell River, i. 121.
Isbet Hill, i. 235.
Isis River, i. 292.
Islington Road, i. 275.
Italian opera, i, 315.
Italians, i. 457.
Italy, i. 316.
JACKDAW, i. 137, 138, 229, 240, 289.
Jack-rabbit, i. 475.
Jacks River. See Jacques River.
Jackson, Gen. Andrew, i. 411.
—, Miss, i. 53.
Jacques River, i. 501; ii. 168.
Jager, i. 365; ii. 396. See also Lestris.
Pomarine, i. 420. See also Lestris
pomarinus.
Jail, Liverpool, i. 133.
James River, i. 501.
Jameson, Robert, i. 141, 146, 149, 150-156,
165, 172, 176-180, 187, 205, 210, 213,
236.
Jardin des Plantes, i. 306, 307, 332.
—— du Roi, i. 306, 312, 313, 320, 321, 332.
——,, Royal, i. 308.
Jardine Hall, i. 161, 189.
——, Sir William, i. 152, 154, 160, 179,
183, 189-194, 268.
Jay, i. 385.
——,, Blue, i. 436, 476.
——, Canada, i. 381, 433; ii. 391.
Jefferson City, i. 458; ii. 175.
Jeffrey, Francis, i. 151, 192, 200.
Jersey, Island of, i. 421.
Jestico Island, i. 353.
Johnson, Edward, i. 230.
——, Garrett, i. 63.
Jones, Mr., of Labrador, i. 414-418, 420.
Judd, Capt. U. S.N., ii. 289.
Juniata River, ii. 220.
Juniperus virginianus, i. 508,
KALMIA angustifolia, i. 433.
—— glauca, i. 377.
Kansas, i. 459.
Katota Tokah, i. 525.
Kauman and Co., i. 22, 23.
Kayae, ii. 154.
Kelley, Dr., i. 392, 395.
Kemble, Charles, i. 291.
Kendal, i. 142.
Kennebunk, i. 81, 94.
Kensington Gardens, i. 296.
Kentucky, i. 29, 32, 53, 46, 218, 280, 329,
419, 478; li. 203, 208-215, 242~245, 277,
321, 331s 450-497, 506-509, 519.
Kentucky Barbecue, ii. 486.
Kentucky Barrens, ii. 234.
INDEX
541
Kentucky River, ii. 460.
Kestrell, i. 137.
Key Tavernier, ii. 351.
—— West, ii. 348-351, 360, 371, 377, 380.
Kidd, John, M.D., i. 292, 293.
—, Joseph B., i. 65, 214, 215, 224, 254-
256.
Kiener, L. C., i. 313.
Killdeer, i. 99, 125; ii. 7.
King-bird,‘i. 471, 5373 li. 7, 70.
Kingfisher, i. 139, 261, 433; ii, 391, 524,
525.
Kinglet, i. 381.
King’s College, i. 290.
Kinnoul, Earl of, i. 284.
Kipp, Mr., ii. 9, 10, 19, 26, 36, 50, §2, 65,
69, 97; 113, 146.
Kirkstall, Abbey, i. 157.
Kite, Mississippi, i. 88; ii. 306.
Kittiwake, i. 157, 362.
Knife River, ii. 24, 154.
Knox, John, M.D., i. 146, 152, 174, 175-
Knoxville, ii. 218.
La BarGE, Joseph, i. 479, 492, 495+
Labrador, i. 67, 68, 344-4453 ii. 57, 79,
508.
Labrus auritus, ii. 519.
La Charette, ii. 8. ¥
“Lady of the Green Mantle’’ (boat), ii.
361, 371, 378.
La Fayette, Marquis de, i. 8, 111, 478.
La Fleur, ii. 105, 106, 108, 113, 145-119,
ae 126, 131-133; 1375 139) 140, 142, 146,
176.
La Gerbetiére, i. 6, 10, 15, 23.
Lagopus albus, i. 405. See a/so Ptarmigan.
—— rupestris, i. 405.
— Willow.
La Grande Riviére, i. 462.
Laidlaw, William, i. 499, 500, 501; ii. 131,
132, 165, 173.
La Main Gauche (chief), ii. 156.
Lambert, Aylmer Bourke, ii. 277.
Lancaster, ii. 218. :
Landsdowne, Marquis of, i. 297.
Landseer, Sir Edwin, i. 210, 211.
Lapwing, i. 227, 236.
La Rivitre Blanche, i. 512.
Lark, i. 134, 226, 235; ii. 426.
, Black-breasted Prairie, ii. 160.
—, Brown, i. 384, 391, 405. See also
Anthus spinoletta.
——., Chestnut-colored, i. 496.
——, Finch, i. 525.
Lark, Meadow, i. 241, 506, 509, 510, 526;
ii. 26, 53, 67, 80, 165, 312.
—, Missouri, ii. 41.
—,, Prairie, ii. 56, 67.
——, Shore, i. 384, 394) 400, 410, 412, 415,
417, 419, 425; ii. 57, 86, 88. See also
Alauda alpestris.
—, Sprague’s, ii. 42, 51, 53, 55, 88.
——, Wood, i. 284, 285, 291.
La Rochelle, i. 6, 333; ii. 220.
Larpenteur, Charles, ii. 41, 65, 68, 73, 77,
81, 124, 126, 138, 183.
Larus argentatus, i. 350, 368, 369.
—— argentatus smithsonianus, i. 368.
— canus, i. 402.
— delawarensis, i. 398, 402.
— marinus, i. 352, 365-370, 373) 375) 3775
379, 383, 385, 387, 389, 402, 427. See
also Gull, Great Black-backed.
— tridactylus, i. 375.
— zonorhynchus, see Larus delawarensis.
Lasterie, Comte de, i. 321.
Latimer, Rev. James, i. 28.
La Vendée, i. 10.
Lawrence, Sir Thomas, i.
284, 291, 341.
“ Lawyer,” ii. 313.
L’Eau Bourbeux, ii. 27.
qui Court, i. 498, 503; ii. 168.
“ Lebanon” (boat), ii. 173, 174.
Le Boulet River, ii. 5.
Le Brun, Bernard, ii. 56, 57, 65, 132, 136,
137.
Lécole de musique, i. 325.
Leeds, i. 243-246, 258, 259, 264.
—— Natural History Society. See Natural
History Society of Leeds.
Philosophical Hall, i. 260.
Public Library, i. 260.
Lehigh River, ii. 212, 317-319, 508.
Lehman, George, ii. 362.
Leicester, i. 129.
Leith, i. 149, 287.
Le Mangeur a’ Hommes (chief), ii. 121.
Lepus artemisia, ii. 49.
—— campestris, i. 474, 510; ii. 19.
—— nuttalli, ii. 49.
—— sylvaticus, i. 461; ii. 49.
—— townsendii, i. 475; ii. 19.
Hare, Townsend’s.
— Virginianus, i. 474.
Leslie, John, i. 210.
Lesson, René Primevére, i. 309, 333-
Lestris, i. 352, 396, 414, 428. See also
Jager.
101, 252-256,
See also
542
INDEX
Lestris pomarinus, i. 420, 421, 434.
Le Sueur, Charles Alexandre, i. 58, 320, 321.
Levaillant, Francois, i. 289, 301.
Levis, Duc de, i. 333.
Lewis and Clark. See Expedition of Lewis
and Clark.
Lexington, Ky., ii. 174, 218.
Liberty Landing, ii. 173.
— St., New York, ii. 169,
Lincoln, Thomas, ii. 354.
—, Thomas, Jr., i, 67; companion in
Labrador, i. 345, 439, 470-
Linnzan Society, London, i. 252, 282, 283,
294, 309) 349.
Linnzus, i. 322; ii. 519.
Linnet, i. 246, 414.
Lint, i. 426.
Literary Society of Newcastle.
castle Literary Society.
Little Chayenne River, i. 531.
— Knife River, ii. 24, 25.
—— Medicine Creek, i. 520.
—— Missouri River, ii. 20, 26, 155, 156.
—— River, i. 350.
Sioux River, i. 484; ii. 171.
Live-Oakers, ii. 327.
Liverpool, i. 69, 81, 86-98, tor, 102, ros,
108, 113, 114, 117, 118, 127, 132, 148, 161,
174, 177, 216, 221, 248, 250, 264, 268, 290,
_ 2953 li. 301, 309, 505.
— Atheneum, i. 270.
— Blind Asylum, i. 106, 272.
— Botanical Gardens, i. 103.
— Jail, i. 133.
—— Literary Society, i. 174.
— Philosophical Society, see Philosophi-
cal Society of Liverpool.
—, Royal Institute of, see Royal Institute
of Liverpool.
Lizard, Red-throated, i. 88; ii. 306.
Lizars, Daniel, i. 184, 185, 188, 265, 280.
, William H.,, i. 153-160, 163-169, 170—
179, 181-183, 186, 188, 191-194, 200, 204,
205, 211, 218, 225, 233, 255-257, 262-266,
292.
—, Mrs. William H., i. 154, 155, 165, 166,
188, 193.
Lloyd, Charles, i. 118, 123, 124.
Loch Lomond, i. 209.
Loire River, i. 6, 8, 23, 39, 130.
London, i. 61, 63, 66, 69, 110, 128, 129, 135,
216, 219, 236, 248-259, 262-265, 274-280,
284, 285, 294, 296-299, 309, 311, 314, 315,
3251 334) 340.
—— Atheneum, i. 253,
See New-
London, Linnaan Society. See Linnzan
Society, London.
——, Royal Society of. See Royal Society
of London.
—, Zodlogical Society.
Society of London.
Londonderry, Marquis of, i. 262.
Long, Major S. H., i. 37, 459.
Longspur, Chestnut-collared, ii. 51.
—,, McCown’s, ii. 51.
Loon, i i. 366, 389, 392-394, 431, 4713 ii 434.
Lost One, The, ii. 331.
Loudon, John Claudius, i. 294, 295, 297.
Louis Philippe, i. 5.
Louisiana, i. 7, 49, 60-63, 77, 117, 130, 134,
182, 185, 239, 241, 261, 273, 301, 387, 492;
ii. 220, 222, 267, 273, 301, 306, 508, 519.
Louisville, i. 28-33, 36, 38, 43) 47553) 54s 60-
63, 66, 270, 450, 454, 486; ii. 199-203, 218,
219, 222, 274, 279, 450, 454, 462, 486, 511.
L’Ours de Fer, ii. 164.
— qui danse, ii. 156.
Louvre, i. 308, 312, 325.
Loxia leucoptera, i. 385.
Lubec, i. 350.
Luxemburg, i. 324.
Lynx, i. 374, 378; ii. 441.
Lyon, David, i. 291.
Lyons, Richard, M.D., i. 99, 164.
See Zodlogical
MacatingE Island, i. 392.
—, Little, Island, i. 396, 406.
McCullough, Dr., i. 436-438.
MacGillivray, William, i. 64, 63, 68.
—., William, British Birds. See British
Birds.
McKenzie, Kenneth, ii. 138, 181, 189.
—, Owen, ii. 41, 49, 51, 56-64, 68, 72-
76, 80-97, 103, 113, 115, 118-128, 131,
138-143, 146, 176.
Mackerel, i. 357; ii. 419, 430.
Mackinaw barge, i. 511; ii. 35, 37, 38, 65, 154.
Macroura, i. 460.
Madison, Thomas C., i. 481.
Magdalene Islands, i. 354, 355, 359) 379) 431+
Magpie, i. 114, 134, 139, 338, 480, 523, 5325
ii. 58, 63, 131.
Maha Indians, i. 498 ; ii. 47.
Maine, i. 66, 67, 354, 444; ii. 51, 212, 295,
380, 381, 387, 389, 400, 401, 419, 508.
Mallory, Daniel, i. 48.
——, Georgiana R. See Audubon, Mrs. V.G.
Mamelles, ii. 116-118, 124.
Mammellaria vivipara, ii. 15.
Manatees, ii. 360.
INDEX
543
Manchester, i. 111, 116, 117, 120, 121, 125,
129, 133-135, 138-146, 156, 159, 162,
230, 246, 259, 260, 264, 268, 274, 275,
317.
Manchester Academy of Natural History,
i. 123, 134.
Manchester, Royal Institute. See Royal In-
stitute of Manchester.
Mandan Indians, i. 497; ii. 14, 18, 23, 42-
48, 144, 146, 156.
— Village, ii. 8-ro, 15.
Mandeville, i. 5.
Mankizitah River, i. 512.
Manuel da Lisa, i. 503.
—— River, i. 503; ii. 168.
Mafle-sugar Camp, ii. 506.
Maria River, ii. 134, 135, 189.
Marignac, M. de, i. 332.
Marigny, Marquis de Mandeville, i. 5, 6.
“Marion’? (boat), ii. 345-348, 358-361,
369, 372) 377+
—_, Mo., ii. 175.
Marmot, i. 458, 461, 469, 472.
—, Prairie, i. 531; ii. 4.
Mars Hill, ii. 390.
Marshall, John, i. 246.
Marsh-hen, ii. 311, 313.
Marten, i. 378, gor, 409; ii. 382.
Martin, i. 241, 375) 477, 506, 5363 ii. 7.
— , John, i. 104.
—, Pine, ii. 400.
—., Purple, i. 472.
Mason, Major, i. 469.
Massachusetts, ii. 419.
Massena, Prince of, i. 313, 315.
Matanemheag River, ii. 393.
Matanzas, ii. 344.
Matlock, i. 129, 136-138.
Mauch Chunk, i, 62; ti. 314, 319-321.
Maupin family, ii. 200.
Maury, Mr., i. ror, 102, 139, 272.
Mauvaises Terres, ii, 101, 113, 127, 137)
143, 148-151, 190.
Maximilian, Prince of Wied, i. 4713 ii. 7, 34.
Meadville, i. 58; ii. 289-293.
Medicine Horn, ii. 100.
—— Knoll, i. 520.
—— Lodge, ii. 12.
Meduxmekeag Creek, ii. 392.
Medway River, i. 304.
Meetingford, i. 228.
Melly, A., i. 102, 115, 121, 134, 249, 313,
317.
Melospiza lincolni, i. 382, 470.
Mephitis americana, ii. 463.
Merganser, i. 89, 357-
——,, Red-breasted, i. 354, 366, 370, 304,
406, 431.
Mergus serrator, i. 370.
ser, Red-breasted.
Mersey River, i. 98, 99, 112, 130, 132, 250.
Merula migratoria, i. 379. See also Robin.
Mexico, Gulf of, i. 70, 88, 94, 95, 303-307,
339+
Michaux, Jean Baptiste, i. 492-496, 507,
509, 541, 516; ii. 169, 170, 172, 174,
413.
Mic-mac Indians, i. 430; ii. 428.
Microtus riparius, i. 530.
Mill Grove, i. 10, 16, 17, 19, 22, 28, 32, 41-
431 74) 751 2463 ii. 523, 524.
Miller, Major, ii. 172.
Mine River, i. 459.
Minnetaree Indians, ii. 16, 18, 24.
Minniesland, i. 71, 73, 453} li. 15.
Miramichi, i. 354.
Mississippi, ii. 445.
Mississippi River, i. 31, 44, 81, 219, 243,
282, 322, 329, 490, 492, 507; ii. 222-225,
232, 237, 238, 246-251, 260, 404, 437-
454, 504, 509; 515-
Missouri, ii. 172.
See also Mergan-
-| ——, Falls of, sor,
—— Indians, i. 475.
—— River, i. 71, 72, 447, 453, 457, 45%
475, 476, 482, 487, 492, 498, 503, 507,
525, 526; il. 3, 5, 7, 10, 14, 15, 20, 21,
24, 48, 53, 57, 72, 78, 89, 98, 104, 106,
109, 112, 176, 177, 180, 181, 189, 190,
219, 320, 322.
—— Trading Company, ii. 4.
Missouriopolis, i. 458.
Mitchell, Major, i. 4793 ii. 47, 134.
——, David D., ii. 188.
Mitford, i. 226,
——, Capt., i. 227, 228, 230, 263.
— Castle, 227.
— Hall, i. 229.
Mocking-bird, i. 155, 193, 209, 245, 248,
252, 274, 330.
Moncrévier, Jean Baptiste, ii. 105, 119,
122, 126, 127, 128, 138, 146, 157, 158,
160, 162, 185,
Monongahela River, ii. 508.
Monroe, Mr., i. 110, 116-118, 164, 171,
174, 176, 248, 273.
Montagnais Indians, i. 376, 377, 411, 412.
Montgomery, General, i. 187.
Moorestown, i. 56.
Moose, ii. 154, 382.
544
INDEX
Moose Hunt, ii. 393.
Moreau River, i. 531, 160.
Morgantown, ii. 240.
Mormon arcticus, i. 383-386, 392, 426-428.
See also Puffin.
Moroe River. Sce Moreau River.
Morpeth, i. 227, 229.
Morristown, N, J., i. 16.
Morton, Countess of, i. 186, 196-202, 219,
222, 289.
, Earl of, i. 192, 195-199, 207, 219, 222.
— ., Major, ii. 173.
—,, Samuel George, i. 453.
Mother Carey’s Chickens, i. 85, 93.
Mount Desert Island, i. 372.
—— Pleasant, ii. 175.
— Vesuvius, ii. 325.
Mouse, ii. 89, 465.
—, Field, i. 464.
— River, ii. rat.
Moynette, Anne, i. 6.
Mud Island, i. 350.
Muddy River, i. 45 ; ii. 27.
Mule Keys, ii. 370, 371.
Muloé, i. 464.
Mulot, i. 464.
Murray, George, i. 123, 203, 205.
, Mrs. George, i. 164, 183.
——, Isabella, i. 168.
—,, James, ii. 33, 38.
—, John, i. 213.
Murre Rocks, i. 412.
Mus leucopus, ii. 89.
Muscicapa, i. 434.
—— Phoebe, i. 405.
Musée, frangais, i. 306, 307.
Musignano, Prince of, i. 186, 256; ii. 202,
385.
Muskrat, i. 4843 ii. 54, 158, 382.
Musquash Lake, ii. 394.
NANTES, i. 8, 10, 14, 23, 39) 75) ITI, 140,
273.
Napoleon, See Bonaparte.
Nashville, Mo., ii. 175.
Nashville, Tenn., ii. 218.
Natasquan River, i. 365, 369, 370, 374.
—, Little, River, i. 380; ii. qty.
Natchez, i, 49, 52, 300; ii, 216, 441, 449,
450, 454+
Natchez in 1820, ii. 246,
Natchitochez, ii. 441.
Natural Bridge, ii, 218.
Natural History Society, Edinburgh, i, 212.
Natural History Society, Leeds, i. 247.
“Nautilus ” (boat), ii. 175.
Nebraska, i. 489.
Neill, Patrick, i. 148, 153, 157, 170, 176,
187, 217, 221.
Nelson, Lord, i. 148.
Nemours, Marquis de, i. 246.
Neotoma floridana, i. 511, 525.
Neville, Miss, i. 212, 217, 218, 253.
New Bedford, i. 23, 477.
New Brunswick, i. 66, 407, 4443 ii. 254,
387, 462.
— Mo,, fi. 174.
New England, i. 427; ii, 262.
New Jersey, i. 61; ii. 310.
New Madrid, ii. 237,
New Orleans, i. 6, 8, 29, 34, 37, 40, 46-51,
53:59, 81, 86, 87, 96, 178, 284, 329; ii,
48, 202, 220, 232, 249-254, 301, 439, 447,
450-454, 505, 515-
New York, i. 15, 22-26, 29, 40, 60, 63, 69,
71, 177) 200, 277, 427, 445, 4533 li. 175,
215, 508.
New York Academy of Sciences, i. 77.
Newbold, Rev. William, i. 215, 222.
Newcastle, i. 216, 224, 229, 230-236, 238-
241, 260, 262, 437.
——, Literary Society, i. 234.
——,, Philosophical Society, i. 234.
Newfoundland, i. 9, 384, 415, 421, 429, 431,
435; li, 416, 426.
Newgate, i. 254.
Niagara, ii. 286.
Nicholson, William, i. 175.
Nighthawk, ii. 163, 170, 226, 372.
Night-jar, i. 243.
Niobrara River, i. 5033 ii. 168,
Nishnebottana River, ii. 172,
Noddy, i. 90; ii. 309, 347.
Nolte, Vincent, i. 99, 1043 ii. 220, 221.
——, Fifty Years in both Hemispheres, ii,
220,
Nonpareil, ii. 255.
Norristown, ii. 524.
North Carolina, i. 69; ii. 174.
North, Christopher, i. 75.
Northampton, i. 274.
Northumberland, i. 225, 227.
——, Duke of, i. 228.
Notre Dame, i. 332.
Nova Scotia, i. 351, 353, 359) 414) 435) 4393
ii. 431, 435+
Numenius borealis, i. 420, 422, 424.
— , hudsonicus, i. 420.
Nuthatch, i. 471.
INDEX
545
Nuthatch, Red-bellied, i. 384.
Nuttall Ornithological Club, i. 29.
——, Thomas, i. 277, 416, 445, 472; ii. 56,
go, 163.
Oakes, William, i. 423.
C&demia, i. 366.
—— deglaudi, i. 418.
Ogden, Captain, ii. 453.
Ohio, ii. 241.
Ohio, The, ii. 208.
Ohio, Falls of, i. 54; ii. 199, 453, 454.
— , Rapids of, ii. 215.
— River, i. 28, 30, 34, 62, 112, 182, 231,
322, 329, 450, 490; ii. 203-206, 208, 232,
238, 250, 274-277, 354, 437, 456-458,
477; 478, 486, 497, 510, 512, 519.
Old Bull's Backfat (chief), ii. 178.
“Old Jostle,’’ i. 426.
Old Squaw, i. 414.
Old Town, ii. 391, 392, 393-
Omaha Indians, i. 169, 478, 485, 487, 498.
—— River, ii. 170.
O'Meara, Barry Edward, M. D., 185.
“Omega” (steamboat), i. 72, 455, 479, 492,
493) 4991 507, 511, 528; ii. 10, 29.
Opelousas, ii. 301.
Opossum, ii. 85, 222, 223, 506.
Opossum, The, ii. 501.
Opposition Fort, ii. 37, 53.
—— Fur Company, ii. 17, 28, 31, 36, 54, 82,
147, 157, 168, 520.
Ord, George, i. 56, 189.
Oriel College, i. 292.
—, Provost of, i. 293.
Oriole, i. 245.
——,, Baltimore, i. 329, 481.
, Orchard, i. 476.
Orléans, Duc d’, i. 321, 327, 330, 336-338,
340.
——, Duchesse d’, i. 332, 337, 338-
Ornithological Biography, i. 31, 63-65, 69,
276, 405, 457, 459) 4703 li. 198, 201-203,
208, 246.
Ornithology, Bonaparte’s, i. 55.
Ornithorynchus paradoxus, i. 270.
Osage Indians, i. 44, 45, 48, 216, 291, 329.
— River, ii. 175.
Otocorys alpestris, i. 384.
Otter, i. 114, 120, 165, 173, 175, 176, 207,
342, 378, 389, 409, 484; ii. 4, 12, 54, 93,
95, 122, 161.
Ottoe Indians, i. 482.
Ouse River, i. 240, 242, 243.
VOL. 11.—35
Owl, i. 242, 243, 384, 392, 3943 ii. 97, 167,
270, 323, 364, 388, 493) 503) 507) 527+
——,, Barred, ii. 212, 404, 405.
——,, Great Gray, i. 393, 394; ii. 390.
——, Great Horned, i. 132 ; ii. 97, 205.
Oxford, i. 129, 216, 252, 291, 292, 294.
——, Anatomical School. See Anatomical
School, Oxford,
Oyster Catcher, i. 391.
PaGE, Benjamin, i. 34.
—, J. W. H., i. 477, 526.
Painbeeuf, i. 23.
“Painter.” See Panther.
Palais Royal, i. 307, 318, 324, 327, 338
Panthéon, i. 325.
Panther, i. 262, 263, 267.
Paris, i. 6, 66, 111, 127, 128, 295, 301, 303,
306-309, 312-316, 324-326, 331, 334) 330-339.
Parker, Mr. (artist), i. 300, 303, 307-310,
316-322, 332, 335+
Parkman, George, M. D., i. 441; ii. 401.
Parocket Island, i. 425, 428.
Parrakeet, i. 468-470, 476, 477, 481, 507;
li. 165, 173.
Parroquet, i. 291.
Parrot, i. 330.
Parry, Captain W. E., i. 309.
Partridge, i. 116, 122, 156, 243, 274, 401,
4235 4571 47%) 475) 5075 il. 173, 253, 302-
Bay, i. 371, 373-
Parus Hudsonicus, i. 400, 403, 433-
Passamaquoddy Indians, ii. 394, 435.
Passerculus bairdi, ii. 117.
Pawling, David, i. 75.
Peale, Rembrandt, i. 55; ii. 203.
——, Titian R. i. 37.
Peale’s Museum, ii. 321.
Pears, Thomas, i. 33.
Peel, Sir Robert, i. 222.
Pelecanus americanus, i. 457.
— erythrorhynchus, i. 457.
trathyrhynchus, i. 457.
Pelican, ii. 168, 171-173, 252, 349, 353, 360,
361; 374-
— Frigate, i. 87, 88, 304; ii. 364, 365, 372.
al White, i, 168, 457) 473) 476, 477, 484,
522, 529; li. 168, 174.
Pennant, Thomas, ii. 5or.
Pennsylvania, i. 10, 613 ii. 203, 212, 241,
320, 438.
Penobscot Indians, ii. 393.
— River, ii. 391-393.
Penrith, i. 142.
Pentland Hills, i, 219.
546
INDEX
Perceval, Spencer, i, 203.
Perch, White, ii. 214.
Percy, Mrs. Charles, i. 49, 52, 81.
——, Marguerite, i. 52.
Perkiomen Creek, i. 10, 19, 20, 41, 42, 241.
Petit Caporal, i. 385.
— Cété, i. 457.
Petrel, i. 88-90, 93-94, 366.
— Dusky, i. 89.
—— Stormy, i. 350.
Peucza lincolnii, i. 470.
Pewee, i. 471, 476; ii. 67, 523, 526.
—. Crested, i. 471, 476.
——,, Fly-catcher, i. 473.
—, Least, i. 500.
——, Short-legged, i. 405.
——, Western-wood, i. 405.
——, Wood, i. 373, 405, 406.
Phalacrocorax carbo, i. 370, 385.
— dilophus, i. 370, 398, 400.
—— dilophus floridanus, i. 459.
— floridanus, i. 370.
mexicanus, i. 459.
See also Cormorant.
Phalenoptilus nuttalli, ii. 163.
Phalarope, i. 87.
——, Northern, i. 419.
Phalaropus hyperboreus, i. 419.
Pheasant, i. 122-124, 135, 202, 205, 206, 209,
268 ; ii. 320.
Philadelphia, i. 16, 21, 26, 29, 32, 46, 55, 58,
63, 277, 4533 ii. 202, 203, 218, 219, 310,
314, 318, 321, 473, 508.
~— Academy of Natural Sciences, i. 55, 56,
90, 523.
Philosophical Society, Leeds.
Philosophical Hall.
Philosophical Society of Liverpool, i. 174.
Pheebe, Say’s, ii. 51.
Pica pica hudsonica, i. 480. See also Magpie.
Picardy, i. 305.
Piccadilly, i. 278, 303.
Picotte, Mr., i. 524-529,
Pictou, i. 435, 436.
Picus ayresii, ii. 41.
Piegan Indians, ii. 133-135, 188.
Piercy, Lieut., ii. 352.
Pigeon, Carrier, i. 301.
—— Creek, ii. 406.
——, Migratory, i. 423.
——, Passenger, i. 423; ii. 156.
— Roost, ii. 461.
—, Stock, i. 134, 167, 338.
—, White-headed, i. 88.
— Wild, i. 141, 186, 212, 419, 473, 4753 |
ii. 160, 163, 309, 350, 527.
See Leeds
Pigeon, Wood, i. 129, 164.
Pillet, Fabian, i. 134.
Pilot Knob, ii. 70.
Pinckney, ii. 175.
Pine Forest, ii. 241.
Pipilo arcticus, i. 502, 504.
Pirate, The, ii. 340.
Pitois, M., i. 339, 342.
Pittsburg, i. 28, 58, 62, 329, 454; ii. 218,
219, 293, 438, 453-
Platibus, Duck-billed, i. 270.
Platte River, i. 469, 477; ii. 164, 172.
Pleasant Bay, i. 355.
Plectrophenax nivalis, i, 352.
Plover, ii. 64.
——,, American Ring, i. 386, 387, 389.
also Charadrius semipalmatus.
—, Black-breasted, i. 425.
—, Golden, i. 434; ii. 166.
— Piping, i. 357, 358.
Plum Creek, i. 503.
Plymouth, i. 10, 14.
Pocano Mountains, ii. 508.
Point-Lepreaux, ii. 435.
Harbor, ii. 434.
Pokioke River, ii. 389.
Pole-cat, ii. 462.
Pomme blanche, i. 505.
Pomotis vulgaris, ii. 519.
Poncas Creek, i. 503.
— Island, i. 504; ii. 168.
—— River, i. 489; ii. 168.
Poncaras Indians, i. 438.
Ponchartrain Lake, i. 5.
Pont des Arts, i. 316, 321.
— d@ Austerlitz, i. 306.
—— de Jena, i. 326.
— Neuf, i. 307.
—— Ste. Genevidve, i. 306.
Poor-will, ii, 163.
Pope, Dr., i. 81, 201,
—. John, i. 30.
Porcher, Dr., ii. 352.
Porcupine, i. 408, 522; ii. 81, 82, 84, 113,
131, 147, 393.
—, Canadian, ii. 83.
» Cape, i, 353.
Porpoise, i. 83, 84, 89, 96; ii. 308, 309.
, Bottle-nosed, ii. 305.
Port Eau, i. 419-421.
Portage, Baie de, i. 413.
Portland, i. 86.
Portobello, i. 213, 215.
Portsmouth, England, i. 60, 342.
Potowatamies, i. 481,
Prairie, The, i, 31.
INDEX
547
Presque Isle Harbor, ii. 289.
Preston, England, i, 141.
Primeau. See Harvey, Primeau and Co.
Primeau, Charles, ii. 6, 10, 15, 159.
Primrose Hill, i. 275.
Procellaria, i. 85, 372.
Carey’s Chickens.
—, Wilsonii, i. 350.
Provan, Dr., i. 52.
Provost (hunter), i. 477; ii. 16, 36-42, 49-
52, 54-57, 64-68, 70-76, 80-85, 89-91, 93-
95, 98-102, 108, 112, 113, 121, 122, 126,
128, 131-133, 137, 142, 146, 147, 156-163,
165, 169, 175.
Psaracolius cyanocephalus, ii. 48.
Pseudostoma bursarias, i. 455.
Rat, Pouched.
Psoralea esculenta, i. 505.
Ptarmigan, i. 366, 375, 389, 39% 392, 403,
428; ii. 415, 418.
—,, Small, i. 431.
—, Willow, i. 405.
Pueblo de Taos, i. 480.
Puffin, i. 383, 404, 410, 427.
mon arcticus.
Puncah, See Poncas.
Puncas. See Poncas,
Pusilla, i. 366.
Pyke, James, i. ror, ro4.
See also Mother
See also
See also Mor-
Quadrupeds of North America, i. 70, 73,
751 76 449) 453) 455+
Quaglas, Mr., i. 52.
Quarry Bank, i. 121, 122, 126, 134, 140, 141,
158, 247, 283.
Quebec, i. 71, 356, 376, 380, 408, 409, 411,
430; ii. 416.
‘Queen Bee,” i. 113, 114, 160.
Rathbone, Mrs. William.
Querquedula discors, i. 459.
Qui Court River, i. 503.
Quiscalus, brewerii, i. 474; ii. 48.
Quoddy, Maine, i. 436.
See also
RABBIT, i. 258, 268, 386, 459, 461, 471, 472,
494) 507, 509; i. 50, 72, 79, 80, 83, 86,
102, 114, 122, 124, 125, 138-140, 155.
Rabin, i. 5.
Raccoon, ii. 85, 133, 168, 222-227, 270, 382,
478, 506.
Raccoon Hunt, A, ii. 492.
Radcliffe Library, i. 292.
Raffles, Lady, ii. 255.
Rafinesque, Constantine S., i. 480, 484.
Rail, Virginian, i. 492.
Rainbow Tavern, i. 172.
Ram Mountain, ii. 24, 26, 28, 40, 67, 86,
148, 152.
Rampart River, i. 531.
Randell, Maxon, ii. 291.
Randolph, Judge John, i. 58, 127.
Rankin, Dr., i. 30, 32, 163, 218.
Rapacious Birds of Great Britain, Mac-
Gillivray, i. 165.
Rapid River, i. 503.
Rat, li. 335, 356, 432, 465.
——, Norway, i. 40.
——,, Pouched, i. 455, 463, 465.
Rathbone, Basil, i. ror.
—-, Benson, i. 269.
——., Hannah [Anna], i. 108, 114, 134-136,
138, 234, 248, 269, 272.
—, Richard, i. 99-102, 129, 270.
——, Mrs. Richard, i. 101-106, 168, 270.
—, William, Jr., i. 99, 104, 108, 109, 114,
122, 131, 132, 163, 248, 262, 268, 283.
—, Mrs. William, i. 113, 116, 137, 135,
136, 138, 141, 168, 186, 244, 248, 266,
274, 289, 293, 295. See also ‘‘ Queen
Bee.”’
—, Mrs. William, Jr., i. 108, 109.
—— family, i. 75, 107, 111, 120, 121, 125,
127, 146, 175, 186, 248, 249, 264, 3135
ii. 221, 505.
Rathbone’s Flycatcher, i. 244.
Rattlesnake, i. 156, 211, 213, 297, 498.
“ Rattlesnake ” (boat), i. 25.
Raven, i. 353, 3551 379) 385, 396-399, 404,
420, 434, 476, 484, 493, 496, 509, 523, 5323
ii. 7, 28, 30, 36, 59, 80, 106, 107, 122, 168,
404, 424, 431, 441, 503.
Recurvirostra americana, i. 517.
Redouté, Pierre Joseph, i. 320, 321, 326-
33% 332, 334, 338.
Redpolls, i. 298, 396, 414.
——, Lesser, i. 420.
Red River, i. 498; ii. 437, 441.
Red-fish, i. 499.
Redstart, American, i. 353, 471-
Redwing, i. 274.
Rees, Colonel, ii. 335-338.
Rees’ Lake, ii. 336, 337-
Regent’s Park, i. 277-279, 281, 285, 298.
Regulators, ii. 230, 231.
Regulators, The, ii. 232, 233.
Regulus calendula, i. 38r.
Reindeer, i. 375, 432} ii. 426, 428.
Reuben’s Creek, i. 520.
548
INDEX
Reynolds, William, M.D., i. 108,
Riccaree Indians, ii. 3, 5, 14, 15) 23, 42) 43)
45, 47, 48, 156.
Richardson, Major, i. 474.
——, John, i. 483; ii. 37.
Riddell, Sir James, i. 21g.
Rikaras. See Riccaree Indians.
Rikarees. See Riccaree Indians.
“ Ripley ” (ship), i. 67, 345, 3491 3525 358,
364, 371, 397) 400, 417, 435, 439) 4443 il.
405, 410, 417, 426, 427, 430.
Ritchie, Mr., i. 215, 468.
Riviére aux Couteaux, ii. 24.
Roanoke River, i. 322.
Robertson, Samuel, i. 410, 411.
Robin, i. 120, 245, 260, 269, 351, 353, 357
379) 433) 4963 ii. 275, 434+
Rochambeau, Jean Baptiste, i. 8.
Rochefort, i. 10, 13, 24, 216.
Rocheport, Mo., ii. 174.
Rochester, Eng., i. 304.
—,N.Y.,i. 117.
Rocky Mts., i. 74, 467, 488, 501, 523; ii. 20,
163, 192, 439.
—— Mts. fur trade, i. 499.
Roloje Creek, ii. 169.
Rook, i. 134, 137, 229, 240, 242, 286, 289,
8
339.
Roscoe, Edward, i. 102, 103, 110-112, 150,
249.
—, William, i. 99, 167-110, 113, 134, 226,
249, 272.
—, Mrs. William, i. 127.
—— family, i. 109, 114, 115, 116, 120, 127,
128, 146.
Rose, Mr., ii. 274-279.
Roses, Les, Redouté’s, i. 326. .
Roslyn Castle, i. 168, 219, 221.
— Chapel, i. 220.
Rotterdam, i. 301.
Royal Academy, Edinburgh, i. 182, 183,
188, °
—— Academy, London, i. 341.
-—— Institute, Edinburgh, i. 162, 209.
Institute, Liverpool, i. 104-107, 112,
I15, 130, 132. 156, 248, 249.
Institute of Manchester, i. 247.
—— Oak, i. 436, 437.
— Society of Edinburgh, i. 203, 207, 216,
225.
—— Society of London, i. 252, 257.
Rozier, Ferdinand, i. 24, 26, 28, 31, 40, 43,
44} Ue 222.
Rubus chamemorus, i. 432.
Rudder-fish, i. 84; ii. 302, 307, 398.
Runaway, The, ii. 270.
Running-water River, i. 498, 503.
Russell, Michael, i. 204, 206.
Russellville, ii. 218.
Rutland Arms, i. 136, 138.
— Cave, i. 138.
——, Duke of, i. 314.
Rutter, Dr., i. 144, 273.
Ruy’s Island, i. 435.
SABINE, Sir Edward, i. 281.
Sable, i. 375, 378, 401, 409; ii. 382.
—,, Cape, i. 3515 ii 367, 374.
—— d’Olhonne, i. 9.
Sac Indians, i. 474.
St. Albans, i. 298.
St. Andrew’s Church, Edinburgh, i. 155.
St. Andrew’s Day, i. 169.
St. Augustine, ii. 352, 353, 356, 358+
St. Charles, Mo., i. 457; ii. 175.
St. Clair, Mr., i. 185.
St. Cloud, i. 309, 311.
St. Croix River, i. 443.
St. Francisville, i. 57, 62, 81.
St. Geneviéve, i. 30, 31, 44; ii 222, 230,
450.
St. George’s Bay, i. 429; ii. 426.
St. George’s Channel, i. 97.
St. Hilaire, Geoffroy de, i. 307, 312, 315,
317) 332+
——,, Isidore de, i. 312, 313, 318, 320.
St. John’s College, Cambridge, i. 286.
St. John’s River, i. 429, 444; ii. 254, 330-
332, 336-338, 389, 392, 393-
St. Fohn's River in Florida, ii. 353.
St. Joseph, i. 471.
St. Lawrence, Gulf of, i. 353, 428, 440.
St. Louis, i. 72, 449, 450, 454, 458-461,
463, 467, 478, 479, 490, 492, 496, 499, 501,
513) 517) 525, 526; ii. 11, 29, 30, 37, 38,
64, 86, 132, 149, 169, 175, 181, 219, 225,
450+
St. Mary’s Abbey, York, i. 239.
St. Mary's Church, Cambridge, i. 290.
St. Nazaire, i. 24.
St. Nicholas Church, Newcastle, i. 231, 233.
St. Omer, i. 305.
St. Paul’s Cathedral, i. 252.
St. Tammany Parish, i. 5.
Salamander, ii. 335.
Salmon, i. 375, 430.
—— River, i. 442.
Sandford, Major, i. 467.
Sandpiper, i. 366, 504; ii. 160.
INDEX
549
Sandpiper, Least, i. 425.
——, Purple, i. 424.
——, Rock. See Sandpiper, Purple.
—, Spotted, i. 353, 365, 4313 ii. 7, 162.
—, Wilson’s, i. 366.
Sandy Island, ii. 364-367.
Santa Fé, i. 459, 467.
Santee Indians, i. 507, 516.
Santo Domingo, i. 5, 7-10.
Sapinot, G. L., i. 81.
Sarpy, Mr., i. 455-457, 463) 477) 529.
Saskatchewan River, ii. 109.
Saunders, Howard, i. 402.
Sauve qui peut, i. 341.
Savannah, i. 301.
Say, Thomas, i. 37, 459, 461, 472, 483, 502.
Sayornis pheebe, ii. 51.
“Scapegrace.” See Diver, Red-necked.
Schoodiac Lakes, ii. 393.
Schuylkill River, i. 10, 17, 41, 43, 241, 271;
ii, 519.
Scipio and the Bear, ii. 481.
Sciurus aberti, i. 70.
—— audubonii, i. 460, 476.
— capistratus, i. 455.
——— carolinensis, i. 470.
—— ludovicianus, i. 459, 476.
—— macrourus, i. 455, 459, 461, 472, 475.
—— magnicaudatus, i. 460.
— niger, i. 455.
—— occidentalis, i. 460.
—— rubicaudatus, i. 460.
rufiventer, i. 460.
— sayii, i. 460.
—— subauratus, i. 459.
Scolecophagus carolinus, ii. 48.
— cyanocephalus, i. 474; ii. 48.
Scoter, White-winged, i. 418.
Scotland, i, 69, 143, 223, 224, 228, 238, 266,
267; ii. 33.
Scott, Anne, i. 177, 207, 217.
— House, i. 454.
—, Sir Walter, i. 97, 111, 143, 144, 146,
148, 151, 155, 167, 169, 170, 182, 183,
206-211, 216, 217, 237, 266.
Scottish Society of Arts, i. 209, 214, 216.
“Sea Parrot.” See Mormon,
Sea-cow, ii. 360.
Sea-eagle, ii. 312.
Sea-gull, ii. 312.
——, White-breasted, fi. 313.
Seal, i. 354, 404, 408, 410; ii. 414, 431, 481.
Seal-catcher, i. 408.
Seal-fishing, i. 357, 414+
Seal Island, i. 350.
Seal oil, i. 408.
—~, Wild Turkey, i. 160.
Seboois Lake, ii. 392.
Sedgwick, Adam, i. 286-288.
Seine River, i. 307, 309, 310, 336.
Selby, Prideaux John, i. 18, 150-154, 179,
183, 189-193, 224, 227, 230, 262-264, 271,
283, 312.
Selby family, i. 226, 227, 264.
Selkirk, Lord, i. 116, 144.
Seminole Indians, ii. 355, 356, 367.
Sergeant, E. W., i. 121, 247, 248, 259, 264,
-274, 201.
Severn River, i. 250, 251.
Shark, i. 85, 430; ii. 304, 307.
, Basking, 366.
Shattuck, George C., i. 67, 345, 377, 388,
392, 3971 420, 437, 439) 441, 5173 li. 403.
Shawanee, i. 34, 44, 45; ii. 238.
—— Indians, i. 148.
Sheeps-head, ii. 310, 313.
Shewash River, ii. 5.
Shippingport, i. 29, 38, 47, 53-55, 270; i.
203, 206, 215, 221, 454.
Shrewsbury, Eng., i. 249-251.
Shrike, ii. 97.
, Loggerhead, ii. 122.
Sick-e-chi-choo, ii. 154.
‘Siffleurs.”” Sce Marmots.
Silver Hills, ii. 199.
Siméon, Vicomte, i. 334, 336, 339+
Simmons, Dr., ii. 352.
Sioux City, i. 488.
—— Indians, i. 481, 489, 494, 498, 502, 508,
oe 5255 il. 25) 47; 68, 79, 133, 154, 164,
169.
Pictout River, i. 484.
Sire, Joseph A., i. 452, 454, 479, 490, 520,
528; ii. 19, 27.
Siskin, i. 357, 377, 4143 ii. 417.
Sismondi, Jean C. L., i. 107, 108.
Six-trees (camp), i. 5193 ii. 165.
Skene, W. F., i. 170, 171, 175, 186.
Skinner, John Stuart, ii. 221.
Skunk, i. 476.
Skylark, i. 215; ii. 51.
Small-pox, ii. 48.
Smet, Father P. J. de, i. 467, 468.
Smith, Lieut. Constantine, ii. 352.
——, Gideon B., i. 453, 476; ii. 29, 173.
—, Sydney, i. 215-217, 233.
Smyth, William, i. 126.
Snipe, i. 57.
—, Solitary, i. 475.
Snow-bird, i. 384.
550
INDEX
Snyders, Francis, i. 175.
Society of Natural History, Boston, i. 58.
Soldier River, ii. 171.
Somerset House, i. 342.
South Carolina, i. 69.
South Dakota, i. 489.
Spanish Fort, ii. 249.
“Spark”? (boat), ii. 352-355.
Sparr Point, i, 410.
Sparrow, Chipping, i. 481.
—, Field, i. 481.
—, Fox-colored, i. 372, 402.
—, Fox-tailed, i. 357, 410.
— _, Lincolnii, i. 431.
—, Song, i. 353, 391.
——, Swamp, i. 382, 391, 420.
—, White-crowned, i. 379-381, 384, 391,
410, 414.
—, White-throated, i. 352, 379, 391, 399,
405. :
Sparrow-hawk, i. 506; ii. 50.
Spence, Dr. William, i. 217.
Spermophile, ii. 27, 51.
—, Federation, ii. 37.
Spermophilus hoodii, ii. 37, 124, 138, T40.
—— tridecem-lineatus, ii. 37.
tridecem-pallidus, ii. 37.
Spizella brewerii, i. 517, 518.
“Split Cape,” 1.444.
Sprague, Isaac, i. 73; assistant on Missouri
River trip, i. 453-5313 ii. 4-173, 183.
Spreading Water, i. 503.
Spring Garden, ii. 333.
Spring Garden Creek, ii. 336, 338.
Square Hills, ii. 9.
Squatters of Labrador, i. 415.
Squatters of Labrador, ii. 443.
Squires, Lewis, i. 73, 453; secretary on
Missouri River trip, i. 461-528; ii. 9-
173, 182.
Squirrel, i. 468, 507; ii. 212, 323, 404, 459-
463, 496, 502, 503.
——, Abert’s, i. 70.
-—, Black, i. 472, 475, 476.
—, Catesby’s Black, i. 455.
-~—, Flying, i. 4or.
—, Fox, i. 455.
—, Gray, i. 457-459, 469, 470, 473, 4753
ii. 173, 175.
——, Ground, ii. 27, 51.
, Long-tailed, ii. 170, 174.
— Red, i. 433; ii. 433.
——, Western Fox, i. 459, 476.
Stanford, Lord, i. 122, 123, 135.
Stanley, Lord. See Derby, Earl of.
Starling, i. 229, 241, 246, 274, 278, 481.
— , Red-winged, i. 480; ii. go.
Stateford, i. 164.
Steen (or Stein), Mr., i. 52.
Stercorarius pomarinus, i. 420.
Sterna fosteri, i. 368.
havelli, i. 61.
hirundo, i. 357, 368, 370, 380.
— regia, i. 4o2.
—— shegrava, i. 402.
Stewart, Dugald, i. 166.
Stockport, i. 136.
Stokoe, Baron, M.D., i. 185.
Stow, i. 170.
Strobel, Benjamin, M.D., 348, 378.
Stuart, Sir William, i. 468.
Sturnella neglecta, i. 506, 510.
Sublette, William, and Co., ii. 69, 132.
Sula bassana, i. 359.
Sullivan’s Bridge, i. 43.
Sully, Robert, 1. 276, 285.
» Thomas, i. 55, 57, 109, 192, 252, 271,
300.
Sun Perch, The, ii. 515.
Sussex, Duke of, i. 377.
Swainson, William, i. 57, 64, 295-300, 303,
306-309, 312, 313, 316, 320, 325, 332,
341, 405, 477-
-——, Mrs. William, i. 299, 300, 306, 312,
313.
Swallow, i. 141 ; ii, 253.
—, Bank, i. 350, 358, 381, 431, 485.
—, Barn, i. 472, 508; ii. 7.
——, Chimney, i. 353.
—, Cliff, i. 487, 494 ; ii. 16, 66, 176.
——., Greenbacked, i. 472, 477, 484.
——, House, i. 358, 431; ii. 16, 167.
——, Martin, i. 433.
——, Republican, i. 431.
——, Rough-winged, i. 471, 477, 508; ii. 7.
——, White-bellied, i. 472.
Swan, i. 141, 310, 471, 494; ii. 5, 19, 21,
140, 154, 157, 159, 171, 222, 223.
Swift, i. 471.
“ Swiftsure ’’ (boat), ii. 431, 432.
Sword-fish, i. 88.
Sylvia parus, ii. 316.
—— roscoe, i. 301.
—— striata, i. 399.
Sylvicola [Dendroeca] maculosa, i. 498.
Syme, John, i. 157, 165, 173, 176, 205.
Tacuycinata bicolor, i. 472.
Tah-Tah, ii. 154.
INDEX
551
Talbot, Isham, i. 36.
Tamias, ii. 27, 31.
quadrivittatus, ii. 154.
Tanager, Red, i. 471.
Tarascon family, i. 29, 47, 48, 543 ii. 200.
Tarascon’s Mills, ii. 215.
Tawapatee Bottom, i. 31, 207; ii. 222, 224.
Taylor, Mr., ii. 168.
— _, James I., i. 120.
—, John, D.D., i. 139.
Teal, Blue-winged, i. 459, 471, 4725 ii. 167,
176, 206.
——, Green-winged, ii. 176.
Temminck, C. T., i. 235, 275, 380.
Tennessee, i. 32, 329.
Tern, i. 368, 428, 432; ii. 313, 364, 372.
—, Arctic, i. 369, 372, 377, 380, 389.
—, Black, i. 493; ii. 39.
—— } Caspian, i. 402.
—,, Cayenne, i. 368, 402, 433.
——, Foster's, i. 368.
—, Great, i. 357, 368, 433, 434+
-—., Havell’s, i. 61.
——,, Sooty, i. 87.
Teton River, i. 525-527.
Tetrao canadensis, i. 352, 414.
—— [Bonasa] umbellus, i. 461.
— unbellus, i. gor.
Texas, i. 70, 74, 75+
Thalassidroma, i. 396.
“Thalia”? (boat), i. go.
Thames River, i. 304.
Théatre frangais, i. 308.
Thomas, William, i. 16, 19.
—, Mrs. William, i. 27.
Thompson’s Creek, i. 162.
Thomson, Anthony Todd, i. 146, 148, 155.
—, Thomas, i. 222.
Thrasaétos harpyia, i. 271.
Thrush, i. 134, 226, 242, 272, 357; ii. 7.
, Black, i. 269.
—, Ferruginous, i. 471.
——, Golden-crowned, i. 462, 471.
—,, Hermit, i. 350, 357.
—, Red, i. 245, 516; ii. 7.
——,, Tawny, i. 353, 357, 406.
—, Water, i. 470, 476. See also Turdus
aquaticus.
—. Wilson’s Water, i. 301.
—, Wood, i. 193, 209, 242, 339; 471, 476,
496; ii. 316.
Thruston, Mr., ii. 358, 363,
“Tinkers.” See Alca torda,
Titian, Vecellio, i. 196,
Titlark, ii. 166.
Titlark, Brown, i. 399.
Titmouse, i. 477; ii. 117,
——, Black-headed, i. 400, 431.
—,, Canada, i. 431, 433.
——, Hudson’s Bay, i. 400.
‘Tittenhanger Green, i. 298, 300, 301.
‘Todd, John, i. rrr.
—, Thomas, i i, IT.
Toledo, General, i. 32.
Tomlinson, Mr., i. 115.
Tongue River, i. 503.
‘Tortugas, ii. 309, 346, 371-374.
‘Totanus macularius, i 1. 353) 365.
Townsend, J. K., i. 472; ii. 56.
‘Trade Water River, ii. 278.
Traill, Thomas S., i. 107, 111, 112,115, 116,
120, 127-129, 146, 163, 175, 248, 249,
269, 295.
“ Trapper’? (steamboat), i. 524-528; ii. 10,
j 124.
‘Travers Lake, ii. 146.
Trenton, i. 16.
Tringa, i. 366, 423, 431.
—— [Acto-dromas] minutilla, i. 366.
arquatella maritima, i. 424,
— maritima, i. 424.
‘—— minutilla, i. 366.
— pusilla, i. 368, 425.
Trinidad, i. 167, 168.
Trinity, Illinois, i. 53, 149; ii. 274, 275.
— Chapel, Cambridge, i. 290.
—— Church Cemetery, i. 77.
'— College, Cambridge, i. 286.
'Troglodytes bewickii, i. 302.
—— ludovicianus, i. 302.
‘Trollope, Mrs. Frances, i. 440.
Troupial, Yellow-headed, i. 478, 480, 481,
1 485, 495-
‘Trudeau, Dr., i. 464.
Truro, i. 438.
Tuileries, Jardins de, i. 312, 314, 326, 334,
338-
Turdus aquaticus, i. 30.
Water.
—— migratorius, i. 373.
Turkey, Wild, i. 100, 115, 131, 141, 156,
159, 161, 163, 173-176, 180, 19T, 194, 203,
243, 451, 454, 458, 461, 468-471, 473, 475,
481, 482, 485, 487-490, 495; ii. 168-170,
174, 206, 214, 217, 220-224, 248, 276, 320,
329) 33% 355, 447, 452; 459, 487, 503,
507.
Turner, Rev. William, i. 239, 240, 264.
Turtle, ii. 360-363, 373-380.
—, Green, ii. 373-380.
See also Thrush,
552
INDEX
Turtle, Hawk-billed, ii. 347, 373, 374) 377+
——, Loggerhead, ii. 373-378.
—, Trunk, il. 373, 374) 377+
Turtlers, The, ii. 371.
Tuskar Rock, i. 97.
Twizel House, i. 225, 268, 293.
Tyne River, i. 230, 231, 233-236.
Tyrannula richardsonii, i. 405.
Tyrolese Singers, i. 272.
“Union ”? (boat), ii. 139, 146.
United States, i. 329, 413, 422, 436; ii. 187,
188, 194, 225, 230, 508.
United States Congress, i. 272, 275, 278.
University of Cambridge, i. 288.
University of Edinburgh, i. 146, 177.
Upper Knife River, ii. 24.
Uria grylle, i. 354, 389.
— ringvia, i. 372.
— troile, i, 351, 354, 366, 371, 372, 413,
428,
Urinator imber, i. 389.
lumme, i. 389, 390.
VAcHER, Baron, i. 334, 336.
Valenciennes, Achille, i. 307, 325, 330.
Valéry, M., i. 325, 326.
Valley Forge, i. 10, 41, 43-
Vanconnah Swamp, ii. 260.
Van Praét, Joseph Basile, i. 314.
Vaux, James, i. 43.
Veras, Colonel, i. 468.
Vermilion River, i. 489, 490, 494; ii. 168.
Versailles, i. 316, 317.
Vespertilio subulatus, i. 502.
Vestris, Madam, i. 253.
Viarme, Place de, Nantes, i. 273.
Viellot, Frangois, i. 301, 472.
Vigors, Nicholas Aylward, i. 255-257, 281,
282, 294, 296, 303.
Vincennes, ii. 498.
Vireo, i. 473, 497-
—— bellii, i. 473.
——,, Bell’s, i. 473, 500.
—, Warbling, i. 475.
—,, White-eyed, i. 475.
Virginia, ii, 51, 218, 232, 244, 444, 455.
Virginians, i. 40; ii. 242, 457, 478.
Vivien, Admiral, i. 13.
Voltaire, Frangois, M.A., i. 322.
Vulpes fulvus macrourus, ii. 76.
— macrourus, ii, 12, 76.
—, Utah, ii. 12, 76. See also Fox, Red.
Vultur atratus, i. 181.
Vulture, i. 113, 352, 394, 415, 458; ii. 210,
246-249, 252, 304, 418, 468.
WacrTAIL, i. 248.
Wales, i. 97, 105, 250.
Walker, Sir Patrick, i. 159.
Wallaghasquegantook Lake, ii. 392.
Waller, Sir Walter, i. 258.
Wananri River, i. 503.
Wansbeck River, i. 229.
Wapiti, i. 484.
‘War Eagle” (boat), i. 499.
Warbler, i. 87, 88, 242, 357, 379, 382; ii.
310, 426, 355-
—, Black and Yellow, i. 498.
—,, Blackburnian, i. 485.
——, Black-capped, i. 357, 397, 369) 410,
421.
‘| —, Black-poll, i. 379, 381, 399-
—, Blue-eyed, i. 471.
, Blue-winged, i. 471.
—,, Blue Yellow-eyed, i. 431.
——, Cerulean, i. 462, 471.
—, Children’s, i. 275.
—,, Cuvier’s, i. 275.
—, Hemlock, ii. 316.
—, Kentucky, i. 471, 473.
——, Mourning, i. 475.
—,, Nashville, i. 471.
—, Pale, i. 481.
——,, Red-breasted, i. 134.
—, Vigor’s, i. 275.
—, Yellow, i. 481.
——, Yellow-rumped, i. 405, 470, 484.
— , Yellow-winged, i. 405.
Ward, J. F., i. 284.
Washinga Sabba. See Blackbird (chief).
Washington, D. C., i. 63, 69. ©
—, George, i. 10, 43, 478.
—, Miss., i. 52.
—, Mo., ii. 175.
—, Penn., i. 52.
Wassataquoik River, ii. 392,
Waterloo Hotel, i. 169.
Waterloo Place, i. 253.
Waterton, Charles, i. 56, 158, 169.
Watson, i. 469.
Weak-fish, ii. 312.
Wear River, i. 238.
Webster, J. W., i. 441.
Weiss, Charles N., i. 166, 167, 172, 177.
Wells, Maine, i. 94.
Wernerian Society, Edinburgh, i. 146, 152,
174, 176, 180, 186, 202, 205, 211, 213, 217
West, Benjamin, i. 207. m
INDEX
553
West Indies, i. 28.
— Point, i. 480.
Weterhoo River, i. 531.
Wetherill, John Macomb, i. 43.
—, Samuel, i. 32, 41.
—, W. H., i. 41, 43.
Whale, i. 94, 96.
Whapatigan, ii. 404.
Wheeling, Virginia, i. 450, 454; ii. 218.
Whewell, William, i. 286-290.
Whip-poor-will, i. 242, 245, 471, 473; ii.
163, 164, 170.
“ White Cloud’? (boat), i. 499.
White Cow (chief), ii. 72.
— Earth River, i. 512; ii. 25, 133.
— Head Island, ii. 431, 432.
—— Horse Inn, i. 285.
—— Paint Creek, i. 509.
White Perch, The, ii. 509.
White River, i. 512; ii. 25, 167.
Whitestone River, i. 494.
Wied, Prince of, i. 525; ii. 323.
Wilberforce, William, i. 293.
Wilcomb, Captain, i. 422, 428.
Wild Cat, i. 494, 5043 ii. 166, 400, 413.
Wild Horse, A, ii, 215.
Willet, i. 472.
Williams, W. H., i. 265, 292.
Wilson, Alexander, i. 29, 65, 108, 128, 261,
292, 298, 312, 385; ii. 200, 201, 203.
—_, James, i. 64, 157, 179.
—, John, i. 160, 161, 176, 180, 200, 203,
217, 266.
Wimpole Street, London, i. 69.
Winchester, ii. 218.
Windsor, Nova Scotia, i. 442, 4433 ii. 435.
— Castle, i. 291.
— River, i. 443.
Witham, Henry, i. 173, 174, 224.
“ Wizard”? (boat), i. 422, 428.
Wolf, i. 365, 378, 392, 403, 408, 409, 458,
483, 485, 491-495, 499, 504, 508-511, 517-
521, 523, 525, 529-5325 Me 4, 7, 9; 19) 20,
22-28, 39-33; 36, 37, 40-42, 49, 52, 54,
57-61, 64, 70, 72, 74-76, 80-85, 87-89, 92,
93, 102, 104, 106, 110-117, 121, 124, 127,
130, 142, 148, 154, 156-159, 163, 166-169,
171, 176, 184, 223, 267, 278, 374, 405, 424,
461, 468-471, 492, 497-500.
——, American, i. 483.
——, Buffalo, i. 483.
—,, Gray, ii. 35-38.
—,, Prairie, i. 481, 483, 494; ii. 160, 171.
—, Timber, i. 483.
——, White, i. 501; ii. 40, 67.
Wolf Island, ii. 323.
— pit, ii. 499.
Wood, George W., i. 119.
Woodchuck, i. 458.
Woodcock, i. 494, 495.
Woodcroft, i. 129, 132, 168, 248, 270.
Wood-duck, ii. 168, 174, 384.
Woodpecker, i. 331, 339, 401, 462, 470,
506; ii. 496.
—, Downy, i. 418.
——,, Golden-winged, i. 433, 471; ii. 41, 42.
——, Green, i. 310.
—, Hairy, i. 431.
—, Ivory-billed, ii. 379.
——,, Pileated, ii. 170, 476.
——.,, Red-bellied, i. 471.
—, Red-cheeked, ii. 53, 138.
—, Red-headed, i. 471, 508; ii. 7.
—, Red-patched, ii. 51.
——.,, Red-shafted, i. 510, 532; ii. 7, 8, 24,
53, 65, 67, 72, 167.
——, Three-toed, i. 371, 418.
——, Variegated, i. 286.
Woodruff’s Lake, ii. 338.
Wood’s Bluffs, i. 485.
— Hills, i. 486.
Woodstock, i. 252; ii. 389, 392.
Woodville, i. 58.
Wreckers, ii. 246, 249, 351-
Wreckers of Florida, ii. 345.
Wren, 1. 272.
—, Golden-crested, i. 434.
—, House, i. 471, 475, 477; 496, 5045 Hi. 7.
——, Marsh, i. 476.
—, Rock, ii. 97, 117, 122, 138, 159.
——,, Ruby-crowned, i. 381, 385, 402.
——,, Short-billed Marsh, ii. 90, 107.
——,, Winter, i. 357, 410; ii. 433.
Wrexham, i. 250.
YANKTON River, i. 5o1.
Yazoo River, ii. 260.
Yellow-bird, Summer, ii. 7.
Yellow-legs, ii. 176.
Yellow-shanks, i. 475.
Yellow-throat, Maryland, i. 431, 471; ii. 7.
Yellowstone River, i. 56, 451, 453, 529; ii.
4, 9, 16, 18, 28, 29, 37, 48, 53) 571 65,
69, 89, 96, 98-101, 104, 114, 125, 126,
180. ,
York, i. 238, 240, 242, 243, 260, 268, 284,
285.
— iniister, i. 239, 242.
554
INDEX
York museum, i. 240.
—— Philosophical Society, i. 242.
Yucca, ii. 165.
ZANESVILLE, ii. ‘218.
Zonotrichia, i, 391.
Zonotrichia querula, i. 472.
Zoblogical gardens, i. 271, 281, 300, 302,
341.
Zovlogical Fournal, London, i. 303.
ZoGlogical Society of London, i. 257, 282,
284, 297; ii. 505.
Zostera Marina, ii. 377.
THE FACSIMILES OF THE DIPLOMAS WHICH FOLLOW ARE TAKEN
FROM A FEW OF THE VERY MANY WHICH AUDUBON RE-
CEIVED FROM THE SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES OF EUROPE AND
AMERICA. UNFORTUNATELY, AMONG THE MANY WHICH THE
REPEATED FIRES HAVE DESTROYED WAS THAT OF THE
ROYAL SOCIETY OF ENGLAND. THE LETTER ANNOUNCING
TO AUDUBON HIS ELECTION TO THAT CELEBRATED SOCIETY,
THE HIGHEST HONOR HE RECEIVED, IS THEREFORE SUB-
STITUTED, WITH THE SIGNATURE OF SIR (FORMERLY CAP-
TAIN) EDWARD SABINE, THE ARCTIC EXPLORER,
THE DIPLOMAS GIVEN ARE:
La Société Linnéenne de Paris. 6 Novembre, 1823.
Lyceum of Natural History, New York. January 13, 1824.
Société d’Histoire Naturelle de Paris. 5 Decembre, 1828.
American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Massachusetts.
November Io, 1830.
Royal Society of Edinburgh. March 5, 1831.
Royal Jennerian Society, London. July 15, 1836.
Literary and Historical Society of Quebec. November 19,
1836.
Western Academy of Natural Sciences, St. Louis, Mo,
April 17, 1843.
Natural History Society of Montreal. March 29, 1847.
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