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Culinary Handbook 

By Charles Fellows 

The Most Complete and Serviceable 

Reference Book to Things 

Culinary Ever Published 




Published by 
THE HOTEL MONTHLY PRESS 

JOHN WILLY, Inc. 

950 Merchandise Mart 

Chicago 54, 111. 



PREFACE. 

This book has been prepared with the aim of gathering into a single volume the largest practi- 
cable collection of every day recipes suited to the catering fraternity iu the English language, mak- 
ing it as nearly as possible the choicest and most complete work of its kind. 

The name which is given it indicates the principle upon which the book has been made: namely, 
that it might serve as a book of reference; as a comprehensive exhibit of the growth, and condi- 
tion of the requirements of the traveling public. 

The work is not a cook book, and does not pretend to teach cookery, yet to those that have al- 
ready received the fundamental ideas of cookery, it will be found to be the best theoretical teache- 
obtainable, as it clearly shows what the combinations of the dishes are and what they look like, and 
how they should be served. 

Necessarily limited in extent, it yet contains more practical matter than any similar publica- 
tion, presenting over four thousand selections. It is believed that of the culinary writers for the 
catering profession acknowledged by the intelligent and cultivated to be great, none, whether 
Foreign cr American have heretofore written the dishes in plain English without the foreign affec- 
tation of "A LA", an affectation when appearing on the Bill of Fare causing the guest to expect 
much, and disappointing him by receiving little. 

The dusty road traveled so much by other writers in making their books contain five times as 
many pages as are necessary has been avoided, and we hope that one of the special merits of this 
volume is its brevity. 

With these brief explanations, The Culinary Handbook is placed before the catering fraternity, 
with the hope that it will be deemed worthy of its title. , 

THB AUTHOR. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ABSINTHE A liqueur made principally fromALMONDS The best for culinary purposes is 
wormwood, anise, angelica, coriander seeds and the Jordan; it is about an inch long, flat with a 

In 



alcohol, sometimes adulterated with aromatic 
resins and dangerous colorings; its uses are 
chiefly as a drink diluted with water, and in 
making many of the American mixed drinks. 
ACETIC ACID The foundation of all vinegars; 
used by confectioners when making icing from 
whites of eggs, to facilitate the beating, 



clear brown skin, sweet and rather tough, 
making almond soup seven-eighths sweet and 
one-eighth bitter almonds should be used. 
SALTED ALMONDS Made by blanching, skin- 
ning, and frying them in butter oil till nicely 
browned, then dusting with salt; make a nice 
appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre. 



AERATED WATERS Such as Vichy, Apolli- DEVILLED ALMONDS Made like salted al- 
naris, Carlsbad water, Friedrichshall bitter, monds, but after salting, well dusted with 
etc., are obtained from the springs of nature cayenne pepper. 

and recommended for the relief and cure of ALUM A white astringent salt, often used to 
different complaints of the human system. Imi- whiten flour, to quickly clear gin, to improve 
tation aerated waters mostly contain sugar, and the color of inferior red wines, 
are sold as pop, such as ginger ale, sarsaparilla, ANCHOVIES The Dutch are always cleaned of 
etc. The artificial waters are simply pure their scales. The French are not, and are 

larger. Anchovy paste bought on the markets 
is often adulterated with red-ochre and Veni- 



The artificial waters are simply pure 
waters sweetened, flavored and charged with 
carbonic acid gas. In Paris oyster shells are 
washed, and broken into small pieces, and, 



tian red. 

under the action of vitriol, yield the carbonic ANCHOVY CANAPES Slices of fried bread, 
acid gas. one-quaiter inch thick, spread with anchovy 

ALBUMEN An opaque fluid found plentifully paste or butter, a filleted anchovy on top, the 
in eggs, meats, fish and succulent vegetables, 
especially asparagus. It is the most nourish- 



edges decorated with minced whites of hard 
boiled egg. 

ing substance known; used in its raw state from ANCHOVY AIGRETTES Filleted anchovies 

washed, then laid for three hours in a pickle of 
olive oil, vinegar and red pepper; taken up, 
drained, dipped in batter and fried a light color 
in very hot fat; served garnished with lobster 
coral and sprigs of parsley. 
It is largely used in making flavoring extracts, ANCHOVY TOAST Slices of toast spread with 
by diluting the oil of the flavor required with a mixture made of three-fifths essence of an- 
chovies, one-fifth grated Parmesan cheese, and 
one-fifth minced filleted anchovies and chopped 
parsley. 



whites of eggs by cooks chiefly in clarifying 
purposes. 

ALCOHOL A colorless liquid obtained from 
fermenting sugar; is found in all wines and 
spirits and is the intoxicating quality of them. 



the alcohol. Wood alcohol obtained at any 
drug store is the best and cleanest material to 
be used in singeing poultry and game. 
ALLIGATOR PEAR A fruit found in the West ANCHOVY ALUMETTES Preserved ancho- 
Indies and Mexico, but can be bought at most vies in oil, drained, rolled in very thin pie paste, 
of the fruit stores in season; the large green fried; served garnished with fried parsley, 
ones are the best; they are served the same as ANCHOVY FRITTERS Filleted anchovies 

coiled up, dipped in batter and fried a light 



canteloupes, or sliced into a salad seasoned 
with pepper, salt and the juice of a lime. 
ALLSPICE The product of the pimento shrub, 



color in hot fat; served garnished with fried 
parsley. 



used as a food flavoring. When ground it has ANCHOVY TARTINES Circles of brown bread 

a graining of a ruby coloring; purchased in its spread with anchovy paste, decorated with 

ground state, is often adulterated with mustard thinly sliced gherkins alternately with white of 

husks. hard boiled egg. 



2037845 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ANCHOVY BASKETS Hard boiled eggs, part 
of the white cut away to form an oval basket, 
yolks removed and pounded to a paste with an- 
chovy essence, seasoned with lemon juice and 
cayenne pepper, colored lightly with carmine 
or cochineal, baskets refilled; served garnished 
with watercress. 

ANCHOVY CROUTONS A paste of three-fifths 
anchovy essence, one-fifth grated cheese and 
one-fifth melted butter and lemon juice, the 
paste spread on fancy cut slices of fried bread; 
served with a coiled anchovy on top. 

ANCHOVY SANDWICH Thin slices of bread 
cut into shape of circles, spread with the pre- 
ceding mixture, and filleted anchovies laid 
between. 

ANCHOVIES WITH OLIVES Anchovy toast 
garnished with slices of stuffed olives. 

ANCHOVY CANAPES, BERNE Triangle 
shaped pieces of fried bread, spread with an- 
chovy paste or butter, the edges garnished with 
minced whites of hard boiled eggs, minced 
yolks, and minced green pickles, with a stuffed 
olive in the center. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER Two parts of butter to 
one part of anchovy essence, a little grated 
Parmesan cheese and nutmeg, thoroughly mixed 
together. 

ANCHOVY PASTE Anchovies filleted, the fil- 
lets rubbed through a fine sieve, the head and 
bones boiled with a little water and thickened 
with flour, strained into the paste obtained from 
the rubbing, mixed; when cooled, a little coch- 
ineal, walnut catsup, and vinegar added to give 
the required color and consistency. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE Anchovy paste or butter 
worked into a rich brown sauce, or some 
pounded filleted anchovies, or anchovy essence, 
lemon juice and cayenne pepper worked into a 
cream or butter sauce. 

ANCHOVY CREAM Anchovy paste worked 
into a butter sauce, and finished with whipped 
cream. 

ANCHOVY STUFFING- Used very often for 
stuffing olives and small game birds. One 
cupful of breadcrumbs squeezed out of milk, 
one tablespoonful of minced fried onions, four 
minced fillets of anchovies, one teaspoonful each 
of minced capers and chopped parsley, the 
whole mixed; if used for stuffing birds; add the 
birds liver minced. 

ANCHOVIES POTTED Anchovy fillets pound- 
ed and rubbed through a sieve, mixed with 
ground allspice and cayenne pepper to taste, 
placed into small jars, pressed down, and one- 
eighth of an inch of melted lard poured over 
the top, to seal the contents. 

ANCHOVY SALAD Shredded fillets of salted 
anchovies garnished with small white pickled 
onions, capers and hard boiled eggs; tarragon 
vinegar sprinkled over the anchovies. Also 
shredded lettuce and shredded anchovies, a few 
minced shallots, all mixed together dry, then 



sprinkled with equal parts of olive oil and caper 
vinegar beaten together. 

ANCHOVY CATSUP Anchovies, onions, whole 
cloves, mace, peppers and ginger, sugar and old 
ale, brought to a quick boil, then slowly sim- 
mered till done, strained through a hair sieve, 
cooled, walnut catsup added; bottled for use. 

ANCHOVY FRITTERS Thin flour pancakes 
spread with chicken forcemeat, cut in strips 
twice the size of anchovy fillet, which is laid on 
one-half of the strip, the other half folded over, 
then breaded and fried; served garnished with 
fried parsley. 

ANCHOVY OMELET Beaten eggs seasoned 
with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, made 
into an omelet, the center enclosing some cooked 
fillets of anchovies; served with equal oarts of 
tomato and espagnole sauces mixed togetner. 

ANGEL FOOD A light, white, kind of sponge 
cake. 

ANGELICA A green preserved stalk resembling 
rhubarb, used to decorate cakes, also in iced 
puddings, ice creams, etc. 

ANILINE A chemical product of petroleum; 
the red is the cheapest and best for culinary 
purposes, besides being perfectly harmless. 

ANISE An herb, from the seeds of which is ex- 
tracted the oil of anise; a liqueur called anis- 
ette is made from the oil; a small proportion of 
oil of anise mixed with alcohol, produces es- 
sence of aniseed, used in flavoring cakes and 
confectionery. 

ANTELOPE A species of deer; the young are 
best for culinary purposes, as the meat, besides 
being treated in all the same ways as venison, 
is light enough in color to allow of being larded, 
which cannot be done to venison. Red meats 
should never be larded, on account of their 
loss of blood and gravy in cooking. 

APPLES About twelve really good kinds are 
obtainable by the steward, for hotel purposes 
Pound sweets, King, Baldwins, Spitzenbergs, 
Northern spy, Rhode Island greenings, Golden 
pippins, Johnathans, Wine saps, Snow, Shia- 
wasse beauty, Roxbury russets, Wageners. 
There are others, but these are among the 
first rank. 

APPLE BAVAROISE Apple sauce, flavored 
with sherry wine and lemon juice, with enough 
gelatine added to set it, the whole passed 
through a hair sieve, whipped cream stirred in 
according to quantity liked, then poured into 
molds and allowed to set till firm; served with 
whipped cream. 

APPLE BUTTER Peeled apples boiled down 
in cider to a pulp with a flavor of allspice, the 
pulp then passed through a fine strainer. 

APPLES BAKED Good firm apples cored, the 
core hole filled with a mixture of butter and 
sugar flavored with nutmeg, then placed into a 
pan containing a little water, and baked till 
done. 

APPLE CAKE Apple sauce and an equal quan- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3 

tity of batter of the consistency of cream, made served with a sauce. 

of flour, milk, eggs and sugar, mixed together APPLES, PORTUGESE STYLE Firm apples 
and baked slowly till done; when nearly done. cored, peeled and simmered in a thin syrup 
the top dusted with sugar, returned to oven to till barely done, taken out, drained, the core 
get a glazed appearance. hole filled with apricot jam, placed on a dish, 

APPLE CHEESECAKES Patty pans lined the syrup then reduced to a glaze, and poured 
with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade over them. 

containing a little grated lemon rind and enough APPLE MERINGUE Apple pulp in a dish, a 
yolks of eggs to set. layer of fruit marmalade spread on it, whipped 

APPLE CHARLOTTE The bottom and sides whites of egg and sugar, tastefully spread over 
of a pan or mold lined with thin slices of but- all, then placed in oven till of a light fawn 
tered bread, the interior filled with thick apple color. 

marmalade, the top covered with slices of but- APPLE TART A pie plate lined with puff paste 
tered bread half an inch thick dipped in a mix- 
ture of milk and eggs, the charlotte then baked 
a fine color, turned out and served with whip- 
ped cream. 

APPLE CHUTNEY A pint and a half of vine- 
gar, two ounces of whole ginger bruised, one 
ounce of chillies, one ounce of mustard seed, 
two ounces of salt, twelve ounces of sugar, 
boiled slowly for forty-five minutes, then 
strained through a hair sieve; when cooled the 
vinegar thus flavored put on again with a large 
onion minced, one and one-half ounces of 

minced shallots, two ounces of sultana raisins, APPLE PANCAKES- -Minced apples worked 
and two and one-half pounds of peeled and into an ordinary wheat pancake mixture, the 

pancakes baked in the usual way, and served 
with butter and sugar. 

APPLE SHORTCAKE Two layers of cooked 
shortpaste spread between with apple marma- 
lade, the top ornamented with whipped cream; 
served with sweetened and flavored cream, 
lade containing soft breadcrumbs and egg yolks APPLE COMPOTE Cored and pared apples 
baked till set. When cold, cut in strips two simmered in a boiling syrup till thoroughly 
inches long and one inch thick, breaded, fried, done, remaining whole. 

and served with orange sauce. APPLE ROLY POLY A biscuit dough con- 

taining a little sugar, rolled out thin, spread 
with minced apples, seasoned with grated lemon 
rind, cinnamon, or ground cloves according to 
taste, rolled up, the ends tucked in, tied in a 
cloth for boiling (in a mold for steaming) (in a 
pan for baking); served with a sauce, or with 
sweetened cream. 

APPLE FLOAT Cream sweetened and flavored APPLES FRIED Good firm apples, peeled, 
with nutmeg poured in a dish or pan; apple cored, cut in slices half an inch thick, then 
marmalade containing whipped whites of egg, 
poured in the centre; baked till set. 



with a raised fancy edge to it; filled two-thirds 
full with apple marmalade and baked; when 
done, filled up with a boiled custard, the in- 
terior edge piped round with meringue, also a 
fancy centre; returned to oven till of a fawn 
color. 

APPLE SOUP Minced cooking apples, grated 
breadcrumbs, and water each one part, a piece 
of lemon rind and a flavoring of cinnamon, 
boiled till thoroughly done, the whole then 
passed through a fine strainer, and enough 
white wine added to form a soup consistency. 



sliced apples, the whole boiled till apples are 

pulpy, then placed into stone jars and tied 

down with skin. 
APPLE CREAM Sweet apple sauce, containing 

a little butter and whipped whites of egg. 
APPLE CROQUETTES Thick apple marma- 



APPLE CUSTARD Apple marmalade mixed 
with beaten eggs and cream, poured into a pan 
or dish, and baked till set. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS Cored and peeled ap- 
ples enclosed in pie paste, baked, boiled or 
steamed till done, served with a sauce or with 
cream. 



dipped in milk, rolled in flour, and fried in 
very hot lard. 

APPLE FRITTERS Slices of cored apples, APPLE JOHNNY CAKE Slices of peeled and 
dipped in batter and fried till done; served 
with a syrup or wine sauce. 

APPLE PIE Thin slices of apples, sweetened 
and spiced, enclosed between an upper and 



cored apples in a buttered baking dish, sweet- 
ened and flavored, a pancake batter poured 
over them; baked till done and served with or 
without currant jelly. 

APPLE MARMALADE Sweetened apple sauce 
boiled down till thick enough to cling to a spoon, 
orange juice, thinned with water, sweetened to APPLE PUDDING Basins or molds lined with 
taste, poured into a freezer and froze. a suet crust, filled with slices of apples, sweet- 

ened and flavored to taste, top crust put on, 
the basin tied over with a cloth, or mold cover 
placed on and tied, boiled rapidly till done. 



lower crust of pie paste; baked till done. 
APPLE ICE Apple marmalade flavored with 



APPLE CUSTARD PIE A pie dish lined with 
puff paste, filled with apple marmalade mixed 
with cream and yolks of eggs; baked till set 



APPLE CUSTARD FRITTERS Apple mar- APPLE PUFFS Minced apples fried a little so 
malade mixed with custard, baked till set; as not to break, flavored with cinnamon and 
when cooled, cut in slices, breaded, fried and sugar, placed on squares of puff paste, the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



edges brought to a top centre and pinched to- 
gether, brushed over with beaten egg and 
baked. 

APPLE COBBLER A pan one and a half 
inches deep lined with a pie paste, filled with 
apple marmalade, top crust put on, baked and 
glazed, served with sweetened and flavored 
cream, or with whipped cream. 

APPLE TIMBALE A timbale mold lined with 
strips of short paste, filled with apple marma- 
lade, covered with a crust, baked or steamed 
till paste is set, turned out, served with apricot 
sauce, and garnished with preserved cherries. 

APPLES GLAZED Cored and peeled apples 
of an even size simmered in lemon syrup till 
just done, taken out, placed on a dish, the 
syrup reduced till thick, then poured over the 
apples; when cooled, decorated with angelica 
and cherries. 

APPLE FLORENTINE Apples cored and sim- 
mered till half done, in syrup, taken out, 
drained, the core hole filled with sweetened 
rice, the outside coated with a vanilla flavored 
chestnut puree; made hot again in oven and 
served with a sprinkling of chopped pistachio 
nuts. 

APRICOTS ON TOAST Stewed apricots on 
sweetened toast, garnished with whipped cream 
(called apricots au crouton). 

APRICOTS AND RICE FRITTERS Half an 
apricot, the other half formed of rice croquette 
mixture, put together, breaded, fried and 
served with apricot sauce (called apricots a la 
Colbert). 

APRICOTS WITH RICE Stewed or canned 
apricots in syrup, bordered with sweetened 
rice, whipped cream over the apricots, sprink- 
led with chopped pistachio nuts (called apricots 
a la Conde"). 

APRICOT BAVAROISE Stiff apricot marma- 
lade with whipped cream containing a little 
gelatine mixed in, filled into molds, set till firm, 
turned out on a dish, and the edge piped around 
with whipped cream. 

APRICOT CHARLOTTE A pan or mold lined 
with lady fingers, strips of buttered bread or 
toast, filled with stewed apricots, covered with 
the same material as the lining, baked, turned 
out, and served with a fruit sauce 

APRICOT COBBLER (Sometimes called "Ap- 
ricots D'Artois.") Two sheets of puff paste 
baked, one spread with apricot marmalade, the 
other laid on top, then cut in squares, diamonds 
or with a fancy shaped cutter, the edge orna- 
mented with piped meringue, dried in the oven 
to a straw color, the centre of top decorated 
with jelly. 

APRICOT COMPOTE Apricots simmered in 
thick syrup till done, served with the syrup 
they were cooked in. 

APRICOT CHARTREUSE A centre jelly mold 
decorated at bottom with stiffened cream, sides 
coated with jell", halves of cooked apricots fan- 



cifully placed around the mold, these again 
coated with jelly, the mold then filled with 
jelly, set, turned out, and the centre filled with 
Bavarian cream. 

APRICOTS IN CASES Fresh apricots halved, 
stoned, simmered in raspberry syrup, served 
in rice cases with angelica sauce. 

APRICOT FRITTERS Halves of apricots or 
spoonfuls of apricot marmalade laid on a thin 
circle of paste, another circle placed on top, 
edges pinched together, trimmed, fried till done. 
Also halves of apricots laid in diluted brandy 
and sugar for half an hour, then dipped in 
batter, fried, dusted with sugar, and served 
with a syrup sauce. 

APRICOT PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS 
Very light patty shells, nearly filled with apri- 
cot marmalade, finished by filling and decorat- 
ing with whipped cream. 

APRICOT MARMALADE OR JAM Raw ap- 
ricots stoned and rubbed through a sieve. To 
every nound of the pulp is added ten ounces 
of sugar with a few of the kernels blanched 
and skinned; boiled till thick enough to coat 
a spoon. 

APRICOT SHERBET Apricots boiled in syrup; 
when done rubbed through a fine sieve, the 
syrup and pulp then poured into a freezer and 
frozen; when nearly done, a flavoring of mar- 
aschino and some whipped whites of eggs are 
added, then frozen five minutes. 

APRICOT SAUCE Water, sugar, apricots, 
lemon juice and a little grated orange rind, 
boiled, thickened with corn starch, then rubbed 
through a fine strainer. 

APRICOT TARTLETTES Small tartlette 
molds lined with puff paste, filled with apricot 
marmalade, baked; when done, the edges dec- 
orated with crystalized cherries, and the center 
piped with whipped cream. 

APRICOT OMELET Beaten eggs with a flavor- 
ing of vanilla made into an omelet, the inside 
enclosing some apricot marmalade or compote, 
omelet then placed on dish, dusted with sugar, 
marked with a hot wire, or glazed under a sal- 
amander. 

ARTICHOKES Are of two kinds, the green or 
globe, and the Jerusalem. The globe is some- 
times used for salads, and served with a French 
dressing hot with pepper; also boiled plain and 
served with any of the sauces appropriate to 
cauliflower. The Jerusalem resembles a rough 
knobbly potato. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS BRAISED Arti- 
choke bottoms filled with chicken forcemeat, 
braised, served on a croflton, with a rich brown 
or mushroom sauce poured around. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FORCE- 
MEAT Artichoke bottoms spread with a puree 
of onions and rice mixed together, filled up with 
forcemeat, sprinkled with grated cheese and 
breadcrumbs, arranged in a pan, moistened 
with consomme and browned in the oven 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 5 

Served with cream onion sauce around (called water till tender, taken up and drained, then 

Artichokes a la Soubise.) put in scallop shells or dishes, covered with an- 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FOIE GRAS chovy sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and 

Artichoke bottoms spread with a mixture of bread-crumbs, then browned in the oven, 

foie-gras and minced truffles, covered with a ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED Arti- 

reduced white mushroom sauce, grated bread choke bottoms filled with forcemeat, covered 

crumbs sprinkled over, then browned in the with supreme sauce, sprinkled with grated 

oven; served with a truffle sauce poured around, cheese and bread-crumbs, browned in the oven, 

(called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la Strasbourg.) and served with sauce Supreme (called Fonds 

ARTICHOKE FRITTERS Cooked artichoke d'Artichauts a la Supreme.) 

bottoms seasoned, breaded, or dipped in batter ARTICHOKE OMELET Thin strips of the 
and fried in very hot lard; or mashed Jerusa- tender part of the globe artichoke seasoned 
lem artichokes mixed with egg yolks, and sea" with salt and pepper, lightly fried in butter, 
soned with nutmeg, taken up by spoonfuls and drained, added to beaten eggs containing chop- 
fried, ped parsley, made into an omelet; served with 

ARTICHOKE CHIPS Jerusalem artichokes cream sauce poured around the omelet, 

peeled and cut into very thin slices with a Sara- ARTICHOKES WITH EGG Artichoke bot- 

toga chip cutter, placed in cold salted water for toms boiled, served on toast, garnished with 

an hour, taken up a few at a time, dried, then quartered hard boiled eggs, and miitre d'hotel 

fried in very hot fat, drained, sprinkled with butter poured over the artichokes, 

salt. ARTICHOKES BOILED Globe artichokes, 

ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN Same as arti- the tips of the leaves cut and the bottoms 

chokes scalloped. Artichoke bottoms cut in rounded, the stalk removed and the under 

slices and mixed with Bechamel sauce, may be leaves trimmed away; well washed and soaked 

used. in salted water for an hour, placed in boiling 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH RAGOUT salted water, and boiled rapidly till tender, 

Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of taken up, drained, the choke removed, served 

diced truffles, mushrooms, tongue and breast with melted butter, or sauces appropriate to 

of chicken, all mixed with Allemande sauce, a cauliflower. 

thin layer of chicken forcemeat placed on top, ARTICHOKES, FAMILY STYLE Jerusalem 

sprinkled with grated bread-crumbs and cheese, artichokes peeled and trimmed to the shape of 

then browned, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la pears with a flat bottom, boiled in salted water 

Montglas.) till tender; a dish of mashed potatoes, arti- 

G7.OBE ARTICHOKES, COLBERT SAUCE chokes placed around it point upwards, and a 

Globe artichokes trimmed and the choke re- boiled Brussels sprout placed between each 

moved, parboiled in salted water, drained- artichoke. 

cooled, then arranged in a sauce pan with a ARTICHOKE SOUP Globe artichokes par- 

little butter, white wine and consomme; sim- boiled in salted water, the choke, edible part 

mered till done and glazy; served with Colbert and leaves rubbed through a sieve, the pure 

sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la thus obtained one part; cream of chicken soup, 

Lyonnaise). one part; onion cream sauce one part, all in- 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES STUFFED Globe ar- corporated. and boiling milk added to obtain 

tichokes trimmed and the choke removed, the * h e desired consistency of thin cream, 

bottoms fried quickly in olive oil for three min- ARTICHOKE AND ONION SALAD Arti- 

utes, turned over and the leaves fried a minute, choke bottoms and onions both cooked and 

taken up and drained, the interior filled with a sliced, dished alternately, garnished with cooked 

savory stuffing of meat, herbs and bread-crumbs; beets and carrots cut with a fancy cutter; served 

arranged in a sautoir, then covered with thin either with French dressing or salad cream. 

slices of bacon, equal parts of white wine and ARTICHOKE AND TOMATO SALAD Cooked 

consomme, simmered till tender, taken up, artichoke bottoms and raw sliced peeled toma- 

drained, the braise reduced to a glaze, skimmed toes, same size as the bottoms, arranged alter- 

and added to an Italian sauce; served with the nately on dish, sprinkled with French dressing 

sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la containing chopped chervil. 

Barigoule). ASPARAGUS Is of two kinds, the red and 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH ONIONS green; the red is large, thick and full; the green 

Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of fried is smaller, with a whitish stalk and green head, 

onions, bread-crumbs, and Parmesan cheese, of delicate flavor. 

sprinkled with lemon juice, then browned in ASPARAGUS STEWED Asparagus heads, also 

the oven; served with a brown sauce poured the tender part of the stalks cut into inch 

around (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a 1'Italienne). lengths, blanched, drained, then simmered till 

SCALLOPED ARTICHOKES Jerusalem arti- tender in a butter sauce, finished by adding a 

chokes cut to shape of oysters, boiled in salted liason of egg yolks and cream. 



6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

ASPARAGUS, SAUCE HOLLANDAISE As- juice, the asparagus covered with the cheese 
paragus heads with all the tender part of the and butter, browned in the oven and served, 
stalk attached, boiled in boiling water contain- ASPIC The name given to a clear savory jelly 
ing a small piece of common washing soda and made from meat, and is used to decorate en- 
salt till done, a piece of toast placed on a dish, trees, pies, hams, tongues, game, pigs' heads, 
the asparagus stalks resting on the toast with salads, prawns, vegetables, fish, etc. 
the heads in the dish, Hollandaise sauce poured ASPIC JELLY Plenty of veal knuckles, calf's 
over the heads. feet boned and blanched, and a fowl or two are 

ASPARAGUS Cooked like the preceding may covered with clear water, fetched slowly to a 

also be served with plain melted butter, cream, boil, skimmed, a little cold water then added, 

veloute", mousseline or bechamel sauce; also, again brought to the boil and skimmed, carrots, 

after cooking, allowed to become cold, and onions, celery, parsley, a little garlic, bay 

served without toast, but with either tartare, leaves, thyme, mace and whole peppers are 

vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce. then added and simmered slowly for six hours, 

ASPARAGUS OMELET Asparagus tips fat taken off, then strained through a consomme 

blanched and drained, then fried lightly in towel, allowed to become quite cold and all fat 

butter, surplus butter poured off and a little removed, then placed over a quick fire, brought 

cream sauce added; omelet mixture containing to the boil, skimmed, removed to cool off a 

chopped parsley formed, enclosing a spoonful little; while cooling, gelatine at the rate of two 

of the asparagus, placed on a dish and a spoon- ounces to the gallon is added; some lean veal 

ful of asparagus placed at each end. is now chopped fine and mixed with some whip- 

ASPARAGUS POINTS WITH QUENELLES ped whites of eggs and egg shells, also a bottle 

Asparagus points and about two inches of of white wine, this mixture poured into the 

the stalk boiled, drained, laid on toast, bord- cooling stock and allowed to come to a slow 

ered with small quenelles of chicken, and Hoi- boil; when just at boiling point a little ice water 

landaise sauce poured over the tips. containing lemon juice is put in, and as soon 

ASPARAGUS SOUP Asparagus heads blanched as coagulation takes place it is drawn to one 

drained and lightly fried with minced shallots side and allowed to simmer slowly for an hour 

in butter, then laid aside, the stalks boiled in longer, then strained through a jelly bag and 

veal or chicken broth till tender, a little white set awa y for use - 

roux added, then rubbed through a sieve and ATELETTE Is a skewer generally made of 

mixed with equal parts of veloute and cream silver or plated metal, and is used to decorate 

sauce, brought to a simmer, the heads now not and co ^ pieces for banquet tables; combi- 

added and served. nations on the skewer according to the dish 

ASPARAGUS PUREE Asparagus points and and the * an cy of the cook can be made of cocks- 

the tender part of the stalks blanched and combs, button mushrooms, crayfish, prawns, 

drained, lightly fried in butter with some animelles (lamb-fries) carrots, turnips, green 

minced shallots, green onions, parsley and a peas, parsley, truffles, sweetbreads, crystallized 

little sugar, turned into chicken broth, brought fruits, preserved violets, cherries, strawberries, 

to a boil, thickened with white roux, the whole sweet jelly, aspic jelly, etc., etc. 

rubbed through a sieve, spinach juice added to ATTEREAUX Is a skewer generally used for 

help give a greenish color, seasoned and cooking dishes en brochette (see brochette). 

served. BABA A light yeast raised cake containing 

ASPARAGUS SALAD Two inch lengths with fruit and almonds, generally served as dessert 

the head of cold boiled asparagus served on a with a rum sauce. 

leaf of lettuce with a cream salad dressing. BAKING POWDER Is better made than 

ASPARAGUS AND SALMON SALAD A bought; the following receipt is cheap tnd 

spoonful of ice cold salmon en mayonnaise gar- effective: five pounds of tartaric acid, eight 

nished with asparagus tips in French dressing. pounds of bi-carbonate of soda, sixteen pounds 

ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD of potato flour, mixed and rubbed through a 

Cooked cauliflower in flowerets garnished ^ ne sieve. By the addition of a quarter of an 

with asparagus tips, served sprinkled with ounce of turmeric to eight pounds of baking 

chopped capers and cream salad dressing. powder you produce EGG POWDER,' which 

ASPARAGUS PATTIES Cooked asparagus saves e gg s and g ives richness of color. 

heads and mushrooms in equal parts mixed BANANA Semi-tropical fruit that grow in bun- 

with veloute" sauce, patty shells filled with the che s sometimes six feet in length and contain- 

mixture, tops placed on; served with a sauce in S f ur to ^ ve hundred bananas, that, when 

mousseline poured around the base. r 'P e . change either to a bright yellow or purple 

ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE Cooked aspar- red color. The yellow are esteemed for their 

agus heads seasoned with salt and pepper, flavor, while the red are best for cooking, as 

placed in a vegetable dish, equal parts of butter they are more firm. The merchants in selling 

and grated parmesan cheese pounded together the fruit, fix the price according to the number 

with a seasoning of cayenne pepper and lemon of HANDS the bunch contains. A hand is a 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



section on the stalk and contains, according to 
the size of the fruit, from ten to twenty bananas. 
Bananas may be bought in a green state much 
cheaper than when ripe. When bought green, 
the way of ripening is to hang the bunches up 
in a dark room, and subject them to a steady 
heat of seventy-five degrees. 

BANANA FRITTERS Bananas cut slantwise 
in halves, laid for a while in diluted brandy 
and sugar, then dipped in batter and fried in 
plenty of hot fat, taken up, drained, rolled in 
powdered sugar, and serve with a fruit sauce. 

BANANAS BAKED Bananas split in halves 
lengthwise, laid in a buttered pan, dusted with 
powdered sugar, browned quickly in the oven; 
served with a cocoanut syrup sauce. 

BANANAS FRIED Bananas split in halves 
lengthwise, dipped in milk, then rolled in flour, 
fried in clear butter to a golden brown; served 
with currant jelly. 

BANANA COMPOTE Bananas cut in quarters 
slantwise, simmered in syrup till done; served 
on a bed of sweetened rice, with the syrup 
poured over them. 

BANANA ICE CREAM Bananas peeled and 
rubbed through a fine sieve; added to the cream 
to be frozen at the rate of one pound of pulp to 
the gallon. 

BANANA SALAD Alternate slices of bananas, 
peeled oranges, and dessicated cocoanut are 
placed in a fruit dish till full, over which is 
poured enough brandy and rum mixed with 
sugar to just moisten the salad. 

BACON Is known as salted and dried. The 
salted is generally used as boiling bacon, and 
the dried, which is subsequently smoked, is 
generally used for frying and broiling. In select- 
ing bacon discard any with yellow fat. Good 
bacon is red in the lean and the fat is white and 
firm. * * * Bacon fat is better than butter for 
many things that have to be fried, s.uch as liver, 
veal chops, onions for curry, etc., is also used 
instead of olive oil with potato salad, lettuce 
salad, combination salad, etc. * * * Bacon is 
appropriate boiled with cabbage, kraut and 
string, wax and haricot beans; it is an improve- 
ment to an omelet, and is the proper thing to 
eat with liver, eggs and fowls. 

BAIN-MARIE A foreign culinary term for a 
hot water bath in which are kept the pots or 
saucepans containing sauces, garnitures, en- 
trees, soups, etc., that require to be kept hot 
without reaching the boiling point. 

BALLOTINE Is the name given to a chaud- 
froid of poultry, game, foie-gras, spring lamb, 
etc., is made by mincing the flesh and forming 
it into forcemeat, then stuffing small boned 
birds such as larks, quails, snipe, woodcock, 
squabs, etc., cooking them and serving them 
cold. Sometimes the forcemeat is stuffed into 
the skin of a turkey leg, sewn up, cooked, 
shaped like a ham; when cold, one end is 
masked with a brown sauce, the other with a 



white sauce, imitating a ham skin; they are 
then ornamented with aspic jelly, atelettes, etc. 

BARAQUILLE Is the foreign culinary term for 
a patty or vol-au-vent filled with a mince of 
veal, chicken, partridge, truffles, small game, 
fresh mushrooms, sweetbreads, etc. 

BARBECUE Means an animal roasted whole; 
although in recent years the word has been 
applied to gatherings at places where an animal 
roasted whole and served to the guests is the 
principal feature of the party. 

BARON OF BEEF One of the olden-time 
dishes of Great Britain's banquet tables, the 
term applied to two short loins of beef left 
whole, resembling a saddle of mutton. 

BASIL The name of a favorite herb used in 
seasoning turtle soup. Cloves resemble it in 
taste and flavor, and since the herb is as a rule 
hard to procure, even in the large cities, the 
clove does duty for it in a very creditable 
manner. 

BAGRATION The name applied through a for- 
eign medium to a few dishes, principally soups 
that are composed of a medley of fish and vege- 
tables. 

BARLEY A grain used by brewers in malting; 
generally found on the market in two sizes or 
qualities known as Scotch and Pearl. The 
Scotch is larger and has the inner husk left on; 
the Pearl is smaller and completely freed from 
husk, which makes it better adapted for culi- 
nary use; chiefly used in soups and gruels. 

BASS A well known species of fish, especially 
adapted for culinary purposes on account of its 
shape and size as well as its firm meat and deli- 
cate flavor. There are four or five principal 
kinds chiefly used, the Black, Striped, Sea, 
Silver, and Spotted, of which the Black stands 
first. 

BASS BROILED The fish is chosen of as near 
a pound in weight as possible, if for club or 
restaurant use: scaled, trimmed, seasoned, 
scored slantwise, rolled in flour, brushed with 
melted butter or olive oil, broiled; served with 
a slice of broiled bacon, a spoonful of melted 
butter, slice of lemon, and a garnish of parsley. 
If used as a course of a dinner, before broiling 
it is filleted into portion pieces. 

BASS FRIED- -Prepared as the preceding, ex- 
cept it is not scored; fried a golden brown, and 
served as if broiled, or with tomato, anchovy 
or Genevoise sauces. 

BASS BOILED Scaled, trimmed, cut into por- 
tion pieces, placed into boiling water contain- 
ing slices of carrot and onion, bay leaves, whole 
peppers, salt and a dash of vinegar; served 
with either butter, cream, parsley, shrimp, an- 
chovy, oyster or hollandaise sauces; sometimes 
served with green peas. 

BASS BAKED Scaled, trimmed, (left whole for 
restaurant and cut in portions if for hotel use), 
placed in pan, seasoned with wine, broth, oil, 
salt, pepper and minced shallots, sheet of oiled 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



^aper put over, baked; when nearly done 
equal quantities of parsley and espagnole sauces 
added to the pan; the fish served with the 
sauce, (called, Bass a la Conde"). 

BASS BRAISED Prepared as the preceding, 
placed in pan or sautoir containing slices of 
carrot, onion, celery and parsley, with enough 
Bordelaise sauce to moisten the fish, braised 
slowly till done; served with the sauce and 
garnished with shrimps, (called, Bass a la Bor- 
delaise). 

BASS BRAISED The fish cut into fillets, lard- 
ed, braised in equal parts of tomato and bech- 
amel sauces; when cooked, the sauce poured 
into saucepan, and added to it some pure of 
mushrooms, lobster roe, sliced truffles and 
sauterne wine; the fish served with the sauce, 
and garnished with fish quenelles, (called, bass 
a la Chambord). 

BASS SAUTE The fish prepared as for frying, 
rolled in flour, and fried plain; a little gravy 
made in the pan the fish was fried in with flour 
and fish broth, and served with the fish, gar- 
nished with fancy potatoes, (called bass a la 
Meunie"re). 

BASS CROQUETTES Cold cooked bass with 
the skin and bones removed, then picked and 
put in a thick fish cream sauce, seasoned with 
anchovy essence, salt, pepper and grated nut- 
meg, allowed to become cold, shaped into cro- 
quettes, breaded, fried, and served with either 
tomato, bordelaise, genoise or anchovy sauces, 
garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. 

BATTER A consistency of flour and liquids 
used to dip foods in before frying; also a pan- 
cake and pudding mixture. The following 
fritter batter is used for frying any foods of a 
plain nature: a pound of flour is gradually 
moistened with a half pint each of milk and 
water, added to which is the whipped whites 
of four eggs and half a cup of melted butter. 

BATTER for frying sweet foods and fruits is 
made of a pound of flour, a heaping teaspoonful 
of baking powder and half cup of sugar mixed 
together dry, then moistened with a cup and a 
half of milk and two beaten eggs. 

BATTER for frying vegetables is made of a 
pound of flour seasoned with salt, moistened 
with a pint of milk, one beaten egg, and a 
spoonful of olive oil. 

BATTER for French pancakes is made of a 
pound of flour very gradually moistened with a 
quart of milk and sixteen beaten eggs, the 
grated rind and juice of one lemon and a seas- 
oning of salt. This batter is fried in small 
HOT frying pans, very thin, tossed over, 
spread with preserves, rolled up and sprinkled 
with powdered sugar. They are also called 
JENNY LIND PANCAKES. 

BATTER for Swiss pancakes is made of six oun- 
ces of flour gradually moistened with six beaten 
eggs and a quart of milk with a seasoning of 
salt; they are fried like the preceding, but 



prior to tossing them over they are strewn with 
steamed currants. Served currant side up with 
powdered sugar, not rolled. 

BATTER for Yorkshire pudding is made of three 
quarters of a pound of flour gradually moistened 
with three pints of milk, nine beaten eggs, and 
half a cup of melted butter; one teaspoonful of 
salt and two of baking powder is beaten in just 
before putting into oven. 

BATTER for wheat griddle cakes is made of a 
pound of flour, one ounce of baking powder, 
two beaten eggs, three cups of milk, a little 
melted butter, sugar and salt. 

BATTER for corn griddle cakes is made of half 
a pound each of wheat flour and corn meal 
mixed dry with a little salt and one ounce of 
baking powder, then moistened with a pint 
each of milk and water, two beaten eggs, a little 
syrup and two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

BATTER for flannel griddle cakes is made of a 
pound of flour, a quart of water and a small 
cake of yeast, this is set to rise; when risen, 
two eggs, two ounces of melted lard, a little salt 
and syrup are beaten in. allowed to rise again 
before baking. 

BATTER for graham griddle cakes is made the 
same as for corn, except using graham flour for 
the corn meal. 

BATTER for rice griddle cakes is made of a pint 
each of sifted flour and dry boiled rice mixed 
together with a little salt, one teaspoonful of 
baking powder, moistened with half a pint of 
milk, three eggs and a little syrup. 

BATTER for buckwheat cakes is made of self- 
raising buckwheat flour prepared according to 
the directions given on the package; or one 
pound of buckwheat flour moistened with a pint 
and a half of warm water with enough yeast 
added to raise it; when risen, a little salt, syrup 
and melted lard or butter is beaten into it, and 
sometimes a little corn meal is appreciated. 

BAY LEAVES The leaf of the laurel tree dried 
and used in seasoning soups, sauces, etc.; they 
resemble in taste and flavor, bitter almonds. 

BEANS One of the most nutritious foods that 
can be used; the varieties most used are the 
lima or butter bean, the white haricot or navy 
bean, the red and the black haricot, the flag- 
eolet or kidney bean. 

LIMA BEANS BOILED The dried beans are 
soaked in water for a few hours, then boiled 
till tender, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and butter, or mixed with cream sauce If 
canned beans are used they are first washed 
from their can liquor, then heated and seasoned 
as above; if fresh beans are used, they are put 
to boil in boiling water containing salt and a 
small piece of common washing soda; when 
done, drained, and seasoned as above. 

LIMA BEANS SAUTE The beans either dried, 
fresh or canned are prepared up to the season- 
ing point of the preceding receipt, then placed 
in pan containing either small pieces of cooked 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



bacon or salt pork, or just plain melted butter, 
then thoroughly tossed and heated in the pan, 
seasoned; sometimes they are sprinkled with 
finely chopped parsley before serving. 
LIMA BEANS SALAD Either dried, fresh or 
canned beans boiled till tender; when cold they 
are mixed with a cream, hollandaise or mayon- 
naise salad dressing and served on a bed of 
lettuce. 

LIMA BEANS PUREE Soaked dried beans 
put to boil with a piece of salt pork in white 
stock containing onions, carrots, parsley, and 
whole mace; when cooked the pork and vege- 
tables removed, the beans and stock rubbed 
through a fine sieve, then placed in a clean 
saucepan, brought to the boil, seasoned, a little 
flour and water thickening added to prevent 
coagulation; served with small toast. 
LIMA BEANS, cream of Equal parts of the 
finished puree of the preceding, and cream or 
veloute' sauce, made hot separate, then thor- 
oughly mixed without further boiling. 
FLAGEOLETS or kidney beans are obtainable 
in cans or in the dried state. The average 
patron does not know what a flageolet is, hence 
the call for them at table is small; but most 
people know what a kidney bean is, and if put 
on the bill of fare as such, the demand will be 
gratifying to the cook. 

KIDNEY BEANS IN CREAM Poulette, espag- 
nole or veloute" sauces. The beans if canned, 
washed from the can liquor; if dried they are 
soaked, then boiled tender, drained and re- 
heated in any of the four sauces above men- 
tioned. 

KIDNEY BEANS, GERMAN STYLE Soaked, 
boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones 
washed off, then heated and tossed in butter, 
seasoned with salt and pepper with a little 
summer savoury; a few salted herrings skinned 
boned and cut into small pieces, either mixed 
with the beans, or served as a garnish to them. 
KIDNEY BEANS, FRENCH STYLE Soaked, 
boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones 
washed off, a little minced onion and garlic 
lightly fried in olive oil to a golden brown color, 
oil poured off, beans put in with some chopped 
parsley, tossed together with the onions, then 
moistened with veloute sauce, brought to the 
boil, seasoned and served. 

KIDN-EY BEANS, ENGLISH STYLE The 
cooked beans, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
butter, sprinkled with chopped parsley and 
served. 

KIDNEY BEANS, PANACHES The word 
panaches means mixed. Cold cooked kidney 
beans mixed with equal parts of cold cooked 
navy or lima beans, are heated with a little 
butter, and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped 
parsley and served. Another mixture is made 
of equal parts of cold cooked string beans (green ) 
and wax beans (yellow). 
HARICOT BEANS, BOSTON STYLE More 



often placed on the bill of fare as "baked pork 
and beans." The beans are washed and soaked 
over night; into the bean jar is put some black 
nolasses, salt, pepper and dry mustard, these 
are well mixed, cold water is then added to 
thin the mixture; the soaked beans now placed 
into the jar filling it two-thirds full, a piece of 
scored, or slices of salt pork is placed on top 
of the beans, jar filled with water, lid placed 
on, and put in a slow oven and baked till done; 
should be served with steamed brown bread. 
The more common way, however, that pork and 
beans are cooked, is to soak them over night, 
place them on to boil in the morning, when at 
boiling point they are skimmed, and the salt 
pork put to boil with them, when done the pork 
removed and cut in slices, the beans put into 
pans, seasoned, sometimes colored with caramel, 
the slices of pork arranged on top of the beans, 
sprinkled with sugar and placed in the oven till 
browned. 

HARICOT BEANS WITH BACON The cold 
beans are nicely fried with butter or bacon fat, 
seasoned with salt and pepper with a little sage, 
then served with a slice of broiled bacon. 
HARICOT BEANS PUREE Soaked beans put 
to boil with salt pork in white stock containing 
carrots, onions, celery or celery seed or salt, 
parsley and whole mace; when done the pork 
and vegetables removed, the beans and stock 
rubbed through a fine sieve, then placed in a 
clean saucepan, seasoned, a little flour and 
water thickening added to prevent coagulation, 
served with small toast. 

HARICOT SOUP, FAMILY STYLE Prepared 
same as the preceding, but instead of the beans 
being rubbed through a sieve, they are left 
whole in the soup, and the vegetables and pork 
cut up very small, returned to the soup and 
served with it, along with small toast. 
BEAN PUREE WITH ONIONS Is the pure"e 
above but considerable onions boiled in the 
stock, and rubbed through the sieve with the 
beans, (called, puree of beans, a la Soubise). 
HARICOT BEANS, CREAM SAUCE Cold 
boiled haricot beans with a flavoring of salt 
pork, mixed into a white cream onion sauce, 
seasoned with nutmeg, made hot, but not re- 
boiled. 

RED HARICOT BEANS Are mostly used as 
a garniture to salt leg of boiled pork. They are 
soaked, boiled with the pork, drained, placed 
in a saucepan, white wine added, then reduced 
to a glaze with a ladle of consomme; served 
with the pork in conjunction with small glazed 
onions. 

BLACK BEANS WITH RISSOTO The beans 
soaked and boiled with bacon; when done, the 
bacon cut up small and mixed w ; 'h the drained 
beans, then moistened with Spanish sauce, 
seasoned with anchovy butter, made hot again 
and served garnished with rissoto. 
GREEN AND WAX BEANS Are best suited 



10 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



for culinary use when served as a plain vege- 
table boiled in salted water with the cover of 
the saucepan OFF. The beans have the strings 
removed, then shred or cut across; when boiled, 
drained, moistened with a little consomme, and 
seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, (time of 
boiling 15 to 35 minutes according to age). 

BEEF For culinary purposes is of two kinds, 
the steer and the cow. Steer beef is superior 
and the flesh should be of a bright red marble 
with yellow fat, and a thick outside layer of 
fat under a fine grained skin; the lean should 
be firm and elastic when pressed with the fing- 
ers; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. 
Cow beef is of closer grain, the fat is white in- 
stead of yellow, and the flesh of a darker red, 
BULL beef is sometimes worked off on the 
unwary by the packing houses when shipping 
to distant cities, especially so in the form of 
tenderloins; it is large, coarse, very dark in 
color, and unfit for table use. 

BEEF a la MODE Any piece of solid beef, 
preferably the silverside of the round, is larded 
with seasoned strips of larding pork, then laid 
in dilute vinegar containing slices of carrot, 
turnips and onions with whole spices, for sev- 
eral hours. It is then taken out and quickly 
roasted in oven to get the outside seared, then 
placed in saucepan, covered with a piquante 
sauce, lid of saucepan put on, then gently sim- 
mered till tender; served in slices with a gar- 
nish of braised vegetables and some of the 
sauce it was cooked in, (also called, "pot roast" 
and "sour pot roast.") 

BEEF STEW, GERMAN STYLE Cold beef 
a la mode is cut into small pieces and heated in 
a sour sauce; served garnished with potato 
pancakes. 

BEEF ROAST Preferably the set. or seven ribs 
from the shoulder to the loin is for hotel use. 
The lower end of the ribs, called SHORTRIBS, 
should be roasted with another pan over the 
top, so as to become more juicy and tender 
than by roasting them open. The usual accom- 
paniment to roast beef is some of the pan or 
dish gravy with a slice of Yorkshire pudding, 
while for the shortribs a little grated horse- 
radish and browned potatoes is best. 

BOILED BEEF The best pieces for boiling 
are the flank, brisket, and short ribs, they 
should be boiled tender with a flavoring of veg- 
etables, and served with horseradish sauce, 
cream sauce and carrots or suet dumplings, or 
mixed vegetables such as carrot, turnip, onion, 
cabbage and potato. 

CORNED BEEF Flank, short ribs, brisket or 
rump of beef is put to soak in brine made of 
twenty-five pounds of salt, twelve ounces of 
rock saltpetre, two pounds of sugar and fifteen 
gallons of water, all boiled together, skimmed, 
cooled, the beef then put in with a cover on 
and a weight on that to keep the beef under 
the brine, (ready for use in a week to ten days). 



BOILED CORNED BEEF The meat put to 
boil in cold water, scum taken off as it rises, 
then allowed to simmer till tender (about four 
hours) served in slices with cabbage, parsnips, 
carrots, sometimes with all three vegetables; 
also with suet dumplings; sometimes with a 
brown sauce and garnished with brussels 
sprouts. 

SPICED BEEF A whole flank of beef with 
bones, gristle and inner skin removed, laid out 
flat, outside skin downwards, then rubbed with 
a mixture of salt, ground pepper, mace, allspice, 
cloves and ginger; rolled up and tied, then put 
to soak for ten days with some pickle from the 
corned beef brine to which is added whole 
cloves, peppers, allspice and bay leaves. When 
to be cooked, it is taken from the pickle, wiped 
dry, dipped in fat that is near cool so as to take 
on a good coating, then rolled in a dough made 
of plain flour and water, placed in a medium 
oven and slowly baked (five to six hours). If 
to be served hot, cut in slices and serve with 
piquante sauce and garnish with small cut vege- 
tables. If to be served cold, as is generally 
done, the dough is left on till thoroughly cold, 
or till to be served; even for a month it will 
not spoil if the dough is not disturbed. Served 
cold in thin slices garnished with pickles. 

ALL SALT, CORNED OR SMOKED MEATS 
IF SIMMERED TILL DONE, INSTEAD 
OF QUICK BOILING, and allowed to cool in 
the water they were simmered in, will be found 
always more juicy and tender, and capable of 
longer keeping. 

DRIED BEEF The thick flank is the part gen- 
erally used; divided lengthwise in its natural 
section, it is put in a pickle of salt, saltpetre, 
sugar and molasses for two weeks, then hung 
up and smoked like hams, (also called smoked 
beef). 

CHIPPED BEEF IN CREAM Very thin slices 
or shavings of dried beef, blanched, drained, 
and mixed into cream sauce or reduced cream. 

SCRAMBLED BEEF WITH EGGS Very thin 
slices of dried beef, again cut into strips like 
short matches, blanched, drained, mixed with 
beaten eggs and a little milk, scrambled around 
in a pan with a little butter till eggs are set, 
served either plain, or on toast. 

FRIZZLED BEEF ON TOAST Very thin sli- 
ces of dried beef, blanched, drained, then 
tossed with frothing butter over a quick fire; 
served on toast. 

SMOKED BEEF WITH SPINACH Dried 
beef put to boil in cold water, scum taken off 
as it rises, then simmered till tender; served in 
slices on a bed of spinach. 

SMOKED BEEF SANDWICHES Very thin 
slices of dried beef placed on thin slices of but- 
tered brown bread, rolled up like fingers. 

BRISKET OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES 
Lean brisket of beef boned, placed in sauce- 
pan with carrot, onions, turnip, celery, parsley, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



II 



thyme, bay leaves, whole cloves and mace, 
covered with stock, saucepan cover put on, 
simmered till tender, taken up and placed on 
baking pan, little gravy poured over, put in 
quick oven till gravy has glazed the meat; 
served in slices with glazed vegetables and 
brown sauce. 

FLANK OF BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE Lean 
flank of beef that has been in corned beef brine 
for a few days, is washed, then put to boil in 
cold water with carrots, onions, and celery; 
after coming to the boil, skimmed, then sim- 
mered till tender, taken up and glazed in oven 
like the preceding, served in slices with a suet 
dumpling, brussels sprouts, shaped piece of 
carrot and turnip, a boiled onion, and some 
piquante sauce poured around. 
GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH MACAR- 
ONI Lean short ribs of beef larded through 
the lean with seasoned strips of larding pork; 
put in sauce pan with carrot, onion, celery, 
parsley, whole cloves and mace with a little 
garlic, covered with consomme and sherry wine, 
cover put on, then simmered till tender, meat 
then taken up, the liquor strained, skimmed, 
and reduced, half of which is taken to moisten 
some boiled and drained macaroni, mixed with 
grated Parmesan cheese. The beef served in 
portions, garnished with the macaroni, and a 
spoonful of the remaining glaze poured over 
the meat, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la 
PIEMONTAISE). 

GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH VEGE- 
TABLES The lean short ribs of beef cooked 
same as in the preceding receipt, served in por- 
tion pieces, garnished with glazed shapes of 
carrot, turnip, onions and artichokes, with a 
little of the glaze poured over the meat, (called, 
BRAISED BEEF a la BOURGEOISE). 
GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH POTATO 
CROQUETTES Lean short ribs of beef 
larded through the lean with strips of seasoned 
larding pork; put in a sauce pan with a few 
shallots, half a cup of fresh grated horseradish, 
parsley and green onions, the meat barely cov- 
ered with consomme to which is added a bottle 
of Rhine wine, then simmered till tender and 
glazy; when done, meat taken up, the liquor 
strained and skimmed, little red currant jelly 
and grated orange rind added to it and reduced; 
the meat served in portion cuts, with a little of 
the glaze poured over, and garnished with po- 
tato croquette mixture rolled into small balls, 
dipped in beaten eggs, then in flour and fried 
very quickly in hot fat (called, BRAISED 
BEEF a la BADEN-BADEN). 
BRAISED BEEF, GERMAN STYLE A top 
sirloin of beef larded slantwise with strips of 
seasoned larding pork, put in sauce pan with 
carrot, onions, celery, parsley, bay leaves and 
a few caraway seeds, barely covered with stock 
and simmered till tender and glazy, then taken 
up, the liquor strained, skimmed and reduced 



to glaze, the meat served in slices with a little 
of the glaze and garnished with sauerkraut and 
small shaped potatoes boiled and sprinkled 
with parsley butter (called, BRAISED BEEF 
a 1'ALLEMANDE.) 

BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF, GARNISHED 
The braised sirloin of the preceding, but the 
caraway seeds omitted in the seasonings; when 
done is served in slices and garnished with 
stoned olives, mushrooms, truffles, cockscombs 
and kernels, green peas and small pieces of 
sweetbreads, all made hot in the glaze with the 
addition of a little Espagnole sauce (called, 
BRAISED BEEF a la FINANCIERS). 
BRAISED BEEF WITH RAVIOLIS Top sir- 
loin of beef larded, put in sauce pan with car- 
rot, onions, celery, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, 
allspice, garlic, claret wine and enough con- 
somme to barely cover the meat, simmered till 
tender and glazy, taken up, liquor strained, 
skimmed and reduced to a glaze; meat served 
in slices with some of the glaze and garnished 
with small molds of boiled macaroni sprinkled 
with Parmersan cheese and small raviolis, 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la MILANAISE). 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH QUE- 
NELLES Top sirloin larded and braised with 
vegetables, spices and consomme; served in 
slices and garnished with a ragout of small 
quenelles of poultry or game, cockscombs and 
kernels, and slices of braised poultry livers 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la RICHELIEU). 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS Top sirloin larded and braised with 
vegetables, spices and consomme; meat taken 
up when done, the liquor strained and skimmed, 
sherry wine and Espagnole sauce added to it; 
meat served in slices, garnished with fried 
mushrooms, and sauce poured around. 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH TRUF- 
FLES Top sirloin larded and braised, meat 
taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- 
med, Madeira wine added to it and reduced; 
meat served in slices, garnished with a ragout 
of truffles, diced sweetbreads, and small veal 
quenelles (called, BRAISED BEEF a la GOD- 
ARD). 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH RICE CRO- 
QUETTES Top sirloin larded and braised, 
meat taken up, liquor strained and reduced to 
a glaze, meat served in slices with some of the 
glaze poured around, and garnished with small 
croquettes of rice that have been seasoned with 
savory herbs and meat glaze, (called, BRAISED 
BEEF a TORSINI). 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH SPRING VEGE- 
TABLES Top sirloin larded and braised, 
taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed 
and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices 
with it, and garnished with glazed carrot, onion, 
brussels sprouts and red or green cabbage, 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la FLAMANDE) 



12 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED PO- [It is optional with the cook whether he adds 

TATOES Top sirloin larded and braised, asparagus points and small flowerets of cauliflower 

taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed, to the above groups of vegetables, it is still a 

and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices simple garniture of vegetables, appropriate to 

with it, and garnished with potatoes that have either braised or roasted tenderloin, understood 

been cut out with the largest size potato scoop, by the guest when written in plain English, and 

centre taken out of the potatoes with a column often uncalled for and consequently left over 

cutter, blanched, drained, 'he holes filled with when the "a la" is attached. Any of the fore- 

a savory forcemeat, then baked till done and going garnitures given to braised sirloins, apply 

brown with butter, (called, BRAISED BEEF equally to braised tenderloins of beef and need 

a la BIGNONNE). not be repeated under the heading of tenderloin; 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH HORSERADISH also the vegetable garnitures above given are 

Top sirloin larded and braised, taken up equally appropriate to braised sirloins of beef.] 

when done, the liquor strained, skimmed and TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, SAUCE BEAR- 

added to it is Espagnole sauce, red currant NAISE Tenderloin trimmed and larded is 

jelly, horseradish, grated lean ham, port wine either braised or roasted with vegetables; served 

and Harvey sauce; it is then rapidly boiled in slices with Bearnaise sauce, 

down to glaze; meat served in slices with some TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CUSTARDS 

of the sauce, and garnished with steamed arti- Tenderloin larded and either braised or 

choke bottoms, filled with grated fresh horse- roasted with vegetables, served in slices with a 

radish, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la NAPOL- half glaze containing Madeira or Malaga wine. 

ITAINE). Garnished with slices or small molds of cus- 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED TO- tards made of stirred yolks of eggs mixed with 

MATOES Top sirloin larded and braised, very small cut vegetables of various colors and 

taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- a little consomme; this vegetable custard is 

med, and mixed with Espagnole sauce, minced then poured into a pan or small mold and 

fried mushrooms and sherry wine, then rapidly placed in a pan containing water, then, with a 

reduced to a glaze; the meat served in slices sheet of buttered paper over the mold, the pan 

with some of the sauce, and garnished with is put in the oven and the custard cooked, 

stuffed tomatoes and stuffed glazed onions, (called, FILET a la TALLEYRAND), 

(called, BRAISED BEEF a la PRO VENCALE) TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CEPES 

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and either braised 

ROOMS Tenderloin roasted with some sliced or roa sted with vegetables; the cepes drained 

vegetables in the pan, mushrooms lightly fried f rora t h e oil in the cans, cut into slices, lightly 

in butter, then put into a rich brown sauce f r j ec i i n butter, taken up and added to a rich 

containing sherry wine; the meat served in brown sauce, served with slices of the meat, 

slices and garnished with the mushrooms in TENDE RLOIN OF BEEF WITH ARTI- 

^ e p CHOKES-Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and 

??! of So ? ? , ^ , /^ I either braised or roasted with vegetables, served 

TABLES -Tenderloin trimmed larded and garnished with artichoke bottoms 

braised, the liquor strained, skimmed and filled with ragout o{ truffles , mushrooms and 

mixed with a rich brown sauce containing sherry Q smoked e Ued> FILLET O F 

or madeira wine, reduced to a half glaze; car- BEEF a la BAYARD) 

rots, turnips and celery are cut into neat pieces, ,.,,,-, nm nw m^p- WITH ^TTTFFFD 

boiled separately in white consomme with a TENDERLOIN OB BEEF WIT 

little sugar and butter, when done strained and PEPPERS - Tenderloin arded and roasted, 

mixed together with some French peas; meat served in shce * "** a '''tie Andalus.an sa ce 

served in slices with some of the sauce and gar- P oured around ' and f **"** . Wlth * 8tuflted 

nished with the vegetables (called. FILLET tomato at one end and a stuffed green pepper 

ri? RKvw * io rrftnnnftiw wi, M A. at the other, (called, FILLET OF BEEF a 



1'ANDALOUSE). 



OF BEEF a la JARDINIERE). When the 

vegetables are cut into minute squares and 

diamonds it is (called, a la PRINTANIERE) TENDERLOIN STEAK, BORDELAISE - 

When the vegetables are scooped out with a Steak broiled and served Wlth a brown B rde " 

medium sized scoop it is (called, a la PARIS- laise sauce - or with some finel y minced shallots - 

IENNE). When taken out of cans or cut in 8 arlic and P arsle y fried in oil and butt f ' ~ 

very small fancy shapes and mixed with French lemon J uice added at the fimsh; g arnished Wlth 

string beans cut small and flageolets it is (called chips. 

alaMACEDOINE). When carrots, turnips, TENDERLOIN STEAK, PARISIAN POTA- 

celery, leeks and onions are cut in strips like TOES Steak broiled and served with some 

matches, it is Called, a la JULIENNE). When maitre d'hdtel butter poured over it and gar- 

the Julienne vegetables are mixed with a Hoi- nished with Parisian potatoes. 

landaise, Allemande or yellow cream sauce it is TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE BEARNAISE 

(called, a la NIVERNAISE). Steak broiled and served with Bearnaise 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



sauce at one end, and Julienne potatoes with a 
sprig of parsley at the other. 

FILLETS OF BEEF WITH STRING BEANS 

Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, 
served with French string beans made hot in 
maitre d'hotel butter at one end, and a slice of 
fancy toast at the other. 

FILLETS OF BEEF, SAUCE PROVENCALE 
Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, 
served with some provencale sauce poured 
around the steak, and a small stuffed tomato at 
each end. 

TENDERLOIN STEAK SAUTEED, WITH 
PEPPERS Steak sauteed in butter; minced 
green peppers fried in butter, drained, mixed in- 
to brown sauce, served around the steak with a 
stuffed green pepper at each end, and some 
neat slices of pimentoes decorating the top of 
the steak. 

TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE PERIGUEUX 
Steak broiled, served with sauce perigueux 
poured around it, top of steak decorated with 
slices of truffles, a few chip potatoes at one end 
of the dish, and a fancy crouton with a sprig of 
parsley at the other end. 

HAMBURG STEAK WITH ONIONS Minced 
raw beef and onions seasoned with salt and 
pepper, mixed thoroughly and formed into flat 
balls or steaks, fried in butter till done, served 
either plain or with a sauce. 

TOMATOED HAMBURG STEAK Minced 
raw beef and solid meat of the tomatoes sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, thoroughly mixed 
and formed into steaks; either broiled or fried 
in butter; served with tomato sauce poured 
around. 

SALISBURY STEAK WITH GRILLED PO- 
TATOES Minced raw beef seasoned with salt 
and pepper made into form of steaks, either 
broiled, or fried in butter; served garnished 
with sliced broiled potatoes (plain or sweet) 
and some maitre d'hotel butter on the steak. 

SALISBURY STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS 
Prepared and cooked same as the preceding; 
served with some fried mushrooms at one end 
of the dish, and chip potatoes at the other. 

ENGLISH BEEF SOUP Pieces of raw beef 
cut small, with carrots, turnips, onions and 
celery cut in dice, placed in soup pot with 
butter and lightly fried, flour then added and 
stirred to form a roux, moistened with boiling 
beef stock; when about half done, pearl barley 
is washed and added to the soup, also some 
whole allspice, peppers, cloves, thyme and bay 
leaves tied in a piece of muslin; when the soup 
is finished, the spices removed, seasoned with 
Worcestershire sauce and chopped parsley. 
SOME COOKS ARE IN THE HABIT OF 
PUTTING TOMATOES IN THIS SOUP, 
WHICH IS DECIDEDLY WRONG. 

BEEF BROTH WITH CELERY Into the soup 
pot is olaced plenty of roast beef bones and 
Clear gravy with slices of carrot, onions, roots 



and trimmings of celery; filled up with strong 
beef stock, simmered till done, strained and 
skimmed; meanwhile celery cut in inch strips 
like matches is fried lightly in butter, then sim- 
mered till tender and added to the soup. 

SCOTCH BEEF SOUP Prepared exactly the 
same as "English beef soup" above, except 
using Scotch oatmeal (procurable anywhere) 
instead of pearl barley, and adding Madeira 
wine at the finish. 

BEEF BROTH WITH RICE Prepared as for 
"beef broth with celery," but after the broth 
is strained and skimmed, allowed to boil up 
again, thickened lightly with corn starch, and 
well washed boiled rice added with a seasoning 
of walnut catsup. 

BEEF BOUILLON WITH CRUSTS Plenty 
of cold roast beef bones and clear gravy put 
into the soup pot with some chopped fresh beef, 
NO SPICES, but a carrot and onion; filled up 
with good beef stock, simmered for several 
hours, then strained through a consomme cloth, 
skimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
served with small toast. Also served plain in 
cups with a thin slice of lemon. 

OX TAIL, THICK Prepare the "bouillon" 
above; ox tails cut in slices half inch thick, 
carrots and turnips cored out with large sized 
column cutter and sliced to resemble the tails 
but thinner, all placed with sliced onions in 
soup pot and fried lightly with butter or beef 
drippings, flour added to form a roux, moistened 
with the boiling bouillon, simmered till done, 
skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper, Worces- 
tershire sauce and sherry wine. 

OX TAIL CLEAR Prepare the "bouillon" 
above and place it on the fire with some trim- 
mings of carrot, turnip, onions and celery, also 
the thick and thin ends of the tails that have 
been previously browned in the oven, simmered 
till done, then strained and clarified, the middle 
part of the oxtails cut in slices with carrot and 
turnip to match, boiled separately in consomme 
till tender and glazy, added to the clarified 
broth with sherry wine. 

BEEF CROQUETTES WITH PEAS A strong 
roast beef gravy thickened with roux and sea- 
soned with Worcestershire sauce is then reduced 
till thick, cold roast or other cooked beef is cut 
very small and stirred into the boiling sauce; 
when thoroughly heated through it is turned 
into a pan about an inch deep, smoothed with 
a knife, covered with a sheet of buttered paper 
and allowed to become cold, then divided into 
pieces of the size required, rolled into finger 
lengths, breaded and fried, served in twos laid 
slantwise across the dish, seasoned green peas 
placed between them, and mushroom sauce at 
each end, with croquette frills stuck in the cro- 
quettes if used. 

BEEF COLLOPS WITH MUSHROOMS 
Cold cooked beef is trimmed and cut in circles 
size of a dollar but thicker, made hot in a thick 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



rich beef gravy; served overlapping each other 
down the centre of the dish, with some fried 
mushrooms in sauce down both sides, and a 
fancy crouton at each end. This dish may also 
be served with a garnish of green peas, kidney 
beans, French string beans, mixed vegetables, 
small quenelles or fancy potatoes. 

BEEF CAKES WITH EGG Cold cooked beef 
minced and seasoned with salt and powdered 
savory, moistened slightly with roast beef gravy, 
made into cakes like Hamburg steaks, placed 
in pan with a glazy gravy poured over them; 
when thoroughly heated, served with a poached 
egg on top, and some thick roast beef gravy 
poured around. 

BEEF CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE 
The "beef croquette" mixture above, when 



brown) with vegetables, served with a dumpling 
and sprinkled with parsley; or the stew placed 
in a pan, soft dumpling mixture dropped in 
pieces all over it, put in oven and baked; or 
the stew left in the saucepan, dumplings put in, 
cover put on, then gently simmered till dump- 
lings are cooked. 

BEEF PAUPIETTES. MUSHROOM SAUCE 
Thin slices of cold cooked beef, trimmed to 
shape of envelope with the flap open, spread 
with a cooked forcemeat composed of minced 
bacon, chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, 
salt, pepper and savory herbs, rolled up from 
the broad end to the point, this pinned with a 
toothpick, dipped in a thin batter and fried, 
toothpick then removed; served with a rich 
mushroom sauce poured around. 



cold formed in the shape of veal chops, using a SCALLOPED BEEF WITH OYSTERS-Small 



pieces of beef already made tender in a brown 
stew seasoned with anchovy essence; oysters 
scalded and mixed with the stew, placed in 
scallop shells or dishes, sprinkled with bread 
crumbs and Parmesan cheese, baked in oven 
and served. 

mixed and seasoned with herbs, grated lemon DEVILLED BEEF WITH OYSTERS -Cold 

cooked tender beef cut in finger lengths an inch 



piece of macaroni to imitate the bone; when 
shaped, rolled in flour, then dipped in beaten 
egg and fried in hot dripping; served with 
Piquante sauce poured around. 
BEEF RISSOLES Cold cooked beef minced 
three parts, grated bread crumbs one part, 



rind, salt and pepper, bound with raw yolks of 
eggs, made into shapes and size of eggs, breaded 
and fried; served with a mound of mashed po- 
tatoes in the centre of dish, a rissole at each 
end and side, with some thickened roast beef 
gravy poured around, and a sprig of parsley put 
into the potatoes. This dish may also be served 
with kidney beans, green peas, French string 
beans or mixed vegetables instead of the pota- 
toes. 

BEEF RISSOLETTES Same as the preceding 
but, made smaller, served and garnished the 
same way. 

BEEF PATTIES WITH MUSHROOMS Cold 
cooked tender beef cut into small dice, mixed 
and made hot in a rich brown mushroom sauce, 
filled into patty shells; served with some fried 
mushrooms in sauce poured around. 

BEEF STEAK AND MUSHROOM PIE 



wide and half inch thick, laid in a mixture of 
salt, pepper, olive oil and Worcertershire sauce 
for an hour, then lightly fried in butter, sprink- 
led with parsley; served on slices of buttered 
toast same size as the meat alternately with 
broiled oysters, and Diable sauce poured 
around. 

CURRIED BEEF WITH RICE Either raw or 
cooked beef rolled in flour, then fried in butter 
with minced onions; when lightly browned, put 
in sauce pan with butter, flour and curry pow- 
der, stirred and moistened with white stock, 
boiled up, skimmed, then simmered with the 
addition of a grated green apple, lemon juice 
and a little chutney; when done, the meat re- 
moved to another saucepan, and the sauce 
strained over it; served with a border of dry 
boiled rice. 



Pieces of raw beef cut about an inch square MINCED BEEF WITH EGG-Either minced 

or finely cut cold cooked beef seasoned with 
savory herbs, salt and pepper is made hot in 
rich roast beef gravy, just enough to moisten 
the meat only being used; served with a fancy 
border of mashed potatoes, the mince in the 
centre, and a poached egg on top of the mince. 



three parts, button mushrooms (fresh or can- 
ned) one part, mixed; baking dish lined on the 
sides with short paste, meat and mushrooms 
put in with a little flour, salt, pepper, a minced 
onion and savory herbs, filled up with water to 
just cover the meat, top crust put on, brushed 



over with beaten egg and milk, put in slow oven ROAST BEEF HASH Minced onion lightly 

fried in butter added to finely cut roast beef 
two parts, and minced cold potatoes one part, 
mixed together, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
powdered marjoram with a very little roast 
beef gravy; the whole then tossed together, 
placed in a pan and baked; or kept in a sauce- 
pan over a slow fire till thoroughly heated; or 
portions put into a frying pan, browned on both 
sides, then formed into shape of an omelet; 
served either with or without a fried or poached 
egg, and with a crouton at ends of dish. 



and gently baked. 

BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER PIE Same as 
the preceding, but omitting the mushrooms and 
using scalded oyster liquor instead of water; 
when to be served, a few blanched oysters kept 
hot in a brown sauce placed with each portion. 

BEEF STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE Same as 
"beef steak and mushroom pie" but using pieces 
of blanched beef kidney instead of the mush- 
rooms. 

BEEF POT VIE A rich beef stew (white or 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CORNED BEEF HASH Prepared, (onion op- 
tional) cooked, and served the same way as 
"roast beef hash" above, but omitting the herb, 
and using corned instead of roast beef. 

SPICED JELLIED BEEF Leg of beef freed 
from all bone, cut up in two inch pieces, put to 
boil in cold water, all scum taken off as it rises, 
then gently simmered till the meat falls to 
pieces; the liquor then strained from the meat, 
put to boil again for half an hour with savory 
herbs, salt and pepper, then strained, skimmed 
from all fat, and while cooling a very little gel- 
atine dissolved in it, the meat shredded and 
added to it, poured into molds to get perfectly 
cold and firm; served in slices garnished with 
thinly sliced green pickles. 

POTTED BEEF FOR SANDWICHES Lean 
roast or other cold cooked beef trimmings three 
parts, cold corned lean beef one part, minced 
fine, then pounded to a paste with two ounces 
of cold boiled bacon to each pound of beef, 
season with salt, pepper, ground mace and a 
very little anchovy essence; when in paste form, 
weigh it, then work in melted butter at the rate 
of two ounces to the pound; after thoroughly 
mixing, the paste is put away in jars with a 
one-quarter of an inch of melted butter poured 
over the top to seal them from air, (this mixture 
kept sealed will keep many weeks without 
spoiling.) 

TOURNEDOS OF BEEF WITH OLIVES 
Cold cooked beef tenderloin trimmed to a pear 
shape, slices of stale bread trimmed the same 
way, both cut in slices half an inch thick, the 
bread fried, the meat made hot in a Piquante 
sauce; served on the toast, garnished with 
slices of stoned olives, and the sauce poured 
around. 

MIROTON OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES 
Cold cooked tender beef cut in circular pieces 
two inches in diameter and half an inch thick, 
sliced onions par-boiled, then fried a golden 
color in butter, the meat arranged in a pan and 
just covered with a brown Italian sauce, the 
onions spread over the whole, placed in oven 
and baked till the sauce is reduced to a glaze 
with a buttered paper over the onions; the cir- 
cles, with the onions still on them, served gar- 
nished with a mixture of small cut cooked vege- 
tables in brown sauce, and a fancy crouton at 
each end of the dish. 

EMINCE OF BEEF WITH PEAS Thin slices 
of tender cooked beef about the size of half 
dollars, made hot in a rich thickened roast beef 
gravy, served overlapping each other down the 
centre of the dish and the green peas as a 
border. 

SCALLOPS OF BEEF, SAUCE TRIANON 
Evenly cut thin slices of cold cooked beef ten- 
derloin sauteed with minced shallots in butter; 
served overlapping each other down the centre 
of dish, with a sauce Trianon down each side, 
and a fancy crouton at each end of the dish. 



TENDERLOIN WITH BLOOD GRAVY 
Thick tenderloin steak placed between two in- 
ferior steaks, then broiled till done, the tender- 
loin served on a hot dish with the gravy of the 
other two squeezed over it, garnished wit fancy 
potatoes, sprigs of parsley, and slices of lemon, 
(called, FILET a la CHATEAUBRIAND.) 

SAUTE OF BEEF, TRUFFLE SAUCE Smal/ 
tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried in butter, 
served garnished with a crouton at each end of 
dish, and truffle sauce poured around the steak, 
with some slices of truffles on top (called, MIG- 
NONS DE BOEUF AUX TRUFFES). 

SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF WITH OY- 
STERS Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, 
then fried in butter, large oysters scalded, then 
tossed quickly over a fire in mSitre d'hotel but- 
ter containing a little anchovy essence; the 
fillets served in the centre of the dish garnished 
with the oysters, and their sauce poured around. 

SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF, maitre d'hotel 
Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried 
in butter, served garnished with fancy fried 
potatoes, and miitre d'hotel butter poured over 
the steak. These may also be garnished with 
a mixture of small cut vegetables. 

RAGOUT OF BEEF, CREOLE SAUCE 
Small pieces of beef simmered till tender in 
tomato sauce containing chopped sweet pep- 
pers, minced shallots, and a small quantity of 
madeira wine and madeira sauce; served with 
the sauce around, and croutons at end of the 
dish. 

BRAISED BEEF TONGUE WITH TOMA- 
TOES Fresh tongue soaked in cold water 
over night, put on in boiling water and blanched 
ior ten minutes, taken up, root and superfluous 
fat trimmed away, placed in sautoir with carrot, 
onions, celery, parsley, whole cloves and mace, 
covered with stock, and gently simmered till 
tender, then taken up and placed in another 
saucepan, the braise strained, skimmed, re- 
duced to a glaze with the addition of some 
madeira sauce, this poured over the tongue; 
served in slices with some sauce poured around, 
and a stuffed tomato at each end. 

SMOKED TONGUE WITH SPINACH The 
tongue soaked over night, put on to boil in cold 
water and simmered for an hour, taken up, 
placed in a sautoir with some vegetables and 
covered with stock, then simmered till tender; 
served in slices on a bed of spinach, with ma- 
deira sauce poured around. 

SMOKED TONGUE WITH SAUER KRAUT 
The tongue soaked over night, put on to boil 
in cold water and simmered for an hour, taken 
up, placed in saucepan with some well washed 
sauer kraut, an onion stuck wi*h cloves, carrot, 
and a bunch of parsley, moistened with stock 
to cover the whole, then simmered till tender; 
served in slices on a bed of the kraut, and gar- 
nished with glazed young carrots, with 
Poivrade sauce around. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CORNED BEEF TONGUE WITH SPINACH 
The tongue put to boil in cold water and 
simmered till tender, taken up, skinned, and 
kept in hot broth; served in slices on a bed of 
spinach with some Espagnole sauce poured 
around. Brussels sprouts, or a jardiniere or 
macedoine of vegetables, form an appropriate 
garniture to boiled corned tongue; also the 
tongue served plain with either raisin or Hol- 
landaise sauce. 

BOILED BEEF HEART WITH HORSERA- 
DISH The heart washed and freed from blood, 
boiled till tender in white stock with whole 
mace, carrot and onions; served in slices with 
horseradish sauce poured around, and garnished 
with a small white turnip hollowed out, steamed, 
and filled with grated horseradish, or the tur- 
nip may be boiled with a little carmine in the 
water, giving it a reddish color. 

ROAST BEEF HEART, STUFFED The heart 
prepared and boiled till tender, as above; taken 
up, drained, the cavities cut out and the space 
filled with a sage and onion stuffing, placed in 
pan with brown sauce poured over it and baked 
till glazy; served in slices on a bed of the stuff- 
ing with some sauce poured around, and gar- 
nished with potato balls at one end and French 
beans at the other. 

BEEF KIDNEY SAUTE The kidneys cut in 
small pieces, put to boil in cold water, when 
blanched, poured into colander, washed and 
drained, then lightly fried in butter, sprinkled 
with flour, moistened with stock, simmered till 
tender, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon 
juice; served with a border of potatoes on the 
dish, kidneys in the centre, sprinkled with 
chopped parsley. 

BEEF KIDNEY SOUP- -The kidneys cut small 
and prepared the same way as "kidney saute"." 
The soup made of thin Espagnole, the kidneys 
and their sauce added at the finish; served with 
small toast. 

BRAISED OX TAILS WITH KIDNEY BEANS 
The thick end of the tail is cut into portion 
pieces and placed in saucepan with carrot, 
onions, celery, bay leaves, thyme and parsley, 
covered with stock and simmered till tender 
and glazy, then taken up, the liquor strained, 
skimmed and added to a Madeira sauce, poured 
over the tails; served with a border of green 
kidney beans, and a fancy croflton at each end 
of dish. 

HARICOT OF OX TAILS The tails cut into 
pieces at the natural joints, fried with onions 
in a saucepan till onions are of a golden color, 
flour added to form a roux, moistened with 
stock, allowed to simmer for an hour, skimmed, 
turnips and carrots cut about size of the joints 
are then added, and simmered another hour, 
then small potatoes of an even size are added; 
when they are done, season with salt, pepper 
and walnut catsup; served, the tails in the 



centre of the dish, garnished alternately with 
the vegetables, the whole sprinkled with chop- 
ped parsley. 

CURRIED OX TAILS WITH SPAGHETTI 
The tails cut into sections at the joints, fried 
with onions in a saucepan till onions are of a 
golden color, flour and curry powder added, 
shaken together, then moistened with stock, 
simmered till tender, meanwhile adding to the 
sauce a grated green apple, juice of a lemon 
and some chutney; when done, the tails taken 
up into another saucepan and the sauce strained 
over them; served with a border of boiled spag- 
hetti cut in inch pieces, seasoned with Parme- 
san cheese. 

BEEF SAUSAGES Lean and fat raw beef 
trimmings two-thirds, soaked stale bread that 
is squeezed dry one-third, the meat is put 
through the chopping machine, then mixed 
with the bread and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
sage, thyme and a little farina, the whole is 
then put through the machine again; when it 
has all passed through cold water is added to 
the desired stiffness, the knife taken from the 
machine, filler screwed on; the salted skins 
having been softened in water, are blown and 
drawn on to the filler, meat placed in the ma- 
chine, the skins filled and tied. 

SAUSAGE CAKES WITH POTATOES The 
sausage meat purchased or made as in the pre- 
ceding recipe, formed into round cakes, and 
either fried or arranged in -a baking pan and 
baked till done; served on a bed of mashed po- 
tatoes with a little brown gravy poured around. 

BEETS Are of three colors and kinds red, white 
and yellow; the white is mostly used in produc- 
ing beet sugar, the red for culinary purposes, 
and the yellow for feeding cattle. 

BEET GREENS The leaves of the young beets 
are washed, put to boil in boiling salted water, 
containing a small piece of common washing 
soda; when done, they are strained, pressed, 
cut up fine, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
butter; served as a vegetable, or after being 
pressed they may be rubbed through a fine 
sieve, and the pure"e thus obtained, seasoned 
and served the same as spinach. 

PICKLED BEETS The small smooth beets 
washed and boiled till tender, skinned, cut in 
thin slices, placed in a crock, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, sugar, bay leaves, and covered 
with vinegar. 

BOILED BEETS IN BUTTER SAUCE Small 
new beets washed and boiled till done, skinned, 
cut in sections like those of an orange, placed 
into the serving crock, and a sauce composed 
of water, butter, salt, white pepper and vine- 
gar, thickened with flour poured over them. 

BEETS FOR GARNISHING The pickled beets 
above left whole and cut into the form of flow- 
ers, etc., or the slices cut or stamped with fancy 
cutters. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 17 

BEET AND POTATO SALAD Small balls of to it the required amount of good white broth, 

cooked beets placed in tarragon vinegar; small bring to a boil, add the meat cut up from the 

balls of boiled potatoes placed in Ravigote tails and claws, a little lobster coral and serve 

sauce; served by arranging them alternately on with small toast, 

the dish. BISQUE OF HERRING Equal parts of fresh 

BEET AND EGG SALAD Slices of pickled and smoked herrings are boned, skinned and 

beetroot and hard boiled eggs, arranged alter- boiled with fresh or canned lobster in seasoned 

nately around a dish, with some pickled white fish stock; when done, it is rubbed through a 

onions in the centre; served with cream salad sieve; the puree then added to a clarified fish 

dressing. broth; served with small quenelles of fish and 

BEARNAISE Name of a sauce used with steaks small toast. 

and entries, composed of minced shallots BISQUE OF PRAWNS (OR SHRIMPS) Made 

braised with tarragon vinegar, to which is the same as "Bisque of crayfish" except using 

added a thin veloute sauce, then some beaten all prawns or shrimps. 

yolks of eggs, continually stirred over the fire BISQUE OF LOBSTER Meat of fresh boiled 

till like custard, removed, melted butter then lobsters cut into small squares, the tough parts 

beaten in at the rate of three ounces to the pint, with the shells and claws boiled for twenty 

seasoned with lemon juice and red pepper, minutes longer, the coral dried in a slow oven, 

strained, finished by adding chopped parsley the stock made of Bechamel sauce thinned with 

and tarragon leaves. Some cooks omit the the water the fish were boiled in, the coral 

veloute" sauce, and use only butter and egg then rubbed through a sieve and added to the 

yolks, thus making a kind of butter mayonnaise, soup giving it a pinkish appearance; finished 

that will very readily disintegrate if allowed to by adding the squares of meat and some small 

keep hot. quenelles of lobster. 

BECHAMEL Name of a white sauce composed BISQUE OF OYSTERS Scalded oysters and 

of reduced chicken broth with some essence of boiled rice in equal bulk rubbed through a 

mushrooms, an equal quantity of rich milk or sieve, added to a thin cream of oyster souj>, 

cream, boiled up, thickened with flour and flavored with mace rad bay leaves, 

butter, seasoned with salt, lemon juice and BISQUE OF SALMON Cooked salmon rubbed 

grated nutmeg, then strained for use. through a sieve added to stock composed of 

BENEDICTINE The name of a liqueur used equa i parts o f court-bouillon and veloute" sauce, 

as a cordial, as a flavoring to sauces and con- boiled up, seasoned, finished with chopped 

fectionery, in making punches and other drinks; parsley and Sauterne wine. 

it resembles "yellow chartreuse" in flavor and BIS g UE OF PLOVERS The plovers braised 

appearance, is made principally at the Abbey for an hour in madeira sauce> taken up and 

of Fecamp in Europe. pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; boiled 

BISQUE-The French term given to soups made farina> enough to thickeQ the quantity of the 

of a thick pure-e principally of shellfish and SQUp is rubbed through a sievei the two purges 

BISQUE OF CRABS-Half a pound of rice then added to a game stock, boiled up, skimmed, 

, , r , , , , seasoned, finished with port wine. 

boiled to each gallon of soup; when done add PARTRIDGE-Braised or roast 
half a pound of crab meat to each gallon, (good r > 13< *J UE - ^ r u**xi^Ma 
crab meat is obtainable any time of the year in partridge meat pounded and rubbed through a 
the form of "McMenamin's canned deviled crab sieve Wlth whlte bread crumbs and a P ure ^ of 
meat"), then rub the who\e through a fine sieve chestnuts, the whole then added to a game-flav- 
adding a little melted butter and a seasoning of ored stock ' ^^ U P- Dimmed, seasoned, fin- 
nutmeg. Make the stock of thin veloute. add lshed Wlth P ort wme ' 

the rice and crab puree, bring to a simmer, BISQUE OF TERRAPIN -Terrapin shells, 

then add sliced okras, minced red and green beads and trimmings simmered in consomme 

peppers, sliced tomatoes, season with marjoram, for four hours, strained, the meat rubbed 

thyme, red pepper and lemon juice, simmer through a sieve and put back into the strained 

slowly for one hour and serve. ' stock with some parsley, thyme, cloves, mace, 

BISQUE OF CRAYFISH Use all crayfish if bay leaves, whole peppers and minced onions, 

you can get them; if not, get a dozen or two, all tied in a muslin bag, brought to a boil, 

which boil in a little water containing salt, skimmed, an equal quantity of veloute- sauce 

whole peppers, parsley and onions, cook them added, simmered for a few minutes, finished by 

twenty minutes, drain, cool, pick out meat from the addition of some boiling cream. 

tails and claws, throw away the intestines. BISQUE OF JACK RABBIT The rabbit cat 

pound the rest, shells and head, also some up and braised with spices and vegetables in 

boiled fish, lobster and yolks of hard boiled consomme till tender, then pounded and rubbed 

eggs to a paste, adding some melted butter; through a sieve, the braise strained, the pure* 

boil this paste with a little veal stock for an put back into it, boiled up, skimmed, equal 

hour till dry, then rub it through a sieve, add volume of thin veloute" sauce added to it, sea- 



i8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

soned, finished with sherry wine, and served running out, top cover placed on, washed over 

with some small quenelles of rabbit. with pie wash, baked, served with small pieces 

BLANCH OR BLANCHED Foods placed to of cheese. 

boil in cold water, removed after coming to the BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKE Two sheets of 

boil, poured into a colander and well washed; short paste, spread between with the fruit taken 

and in the case of almonds, etc., the skins are from a compote, the upper sheet spread with 

then easily removed. whipped cream and decorated with some fresh 

BLANC MANGE Milk put to boil, containing berries. 

sugar, grated orange rind, and a few bitter al- BLACKBERRY JAM Fresh picked over ber- 

monds; when boiled, strain into another sauce- ries mixed with ten ounces of sugar to each 

pan, boiled up again, then thickened with corn pound of fruit, gradually brought to a simmer, 

starch, and poured into molds, the bottoms then allowed to cook till fairly thick, or till it 

and sides of which may be decorated with crys- sets when dropped on a cold dish, 

tallized fruits. After the blanc mange is made BLACKBIRDS Can be obtained nearly all the 

it may be made into "ribbon cream" by separ- year round of the New York and Chicago game 

ating it into four vessels, coloring one green and poultry merchants; they are very cheap 

and flavoring it with pistachios, another red and make useful entries. 

with a rose flavor, another with some boiling BLACKBIRDS BROILED ON SKEWERS, 

chocolate; when filling the molds, the white is (en brochette) The birds drawn, wiped, picked, 

placed first and the chocolate last. and wrapped round with a very thin slice of 

BLANQUETTE A term often used in describ- bacjn, run on skewers, broiled, served on toast, 
ing a white fricassee of white meats, such as garnished with parsley and slices of lemon, 
sweetbreads, veal, animal brains, spring lamb, COMPOTE OF BLACKBIRDS The black- 
rabbit, chicken, etc., etc. birds picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, then 

BLACKBERRIES Also called "dewberries," quickly browned with butter in a hot oven, 

a fruit of the raspberry species, used as a table taken up, placed in a game sauce and simmered 

fruit, preserves, made into brandies and till tender; served in croustades with some 

cordials. sauce poured around. 

BLACKBERRIES WITH CREAM The ber- SALMIS OF BLACKBIRDS The blackbirds 

ries picked over, served in dishes with cream picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, quickly 

and powdered sugar. roasted, then placed in a game sauce with some 

BLACKBERRY PUDDING Picked over black- mushrooms and stoned olives; when done, 

berries 3 quarts, flour 2 pounds, baking soda served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, 

one ounce, New Orleans molasses one quart, and the sauce poured over the birds; garnish 

little salt, the whole mixed together without with the mushrooms and olives, 

water, put into molds, cover tied on, boiled BLACKBIRD PIE The blackbirds picked, 

three hours. Served with sauce DOREE com- drawn, wiped and stuffed with breadcrumbs 

posed of half pound of butter beaten till creamy mixed with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, nut- 

with half pound of powdered sugar, placed men ano ^ e gg s . trussed, quickly made brown in 

over the fire and two beaten yolks of eggs the oven, placed in pie dish, covered with game 

stirred in; when thick, work in half a pint of sauce and some sliced hard boiled eggs, cov- 

brandy, and season with grated nutmeg. ered with pie paste and baked. 

BLACKBERRY CHARLOTTE Molds or pans BLACKBIRDS IN POTATOES The blackbird 

lined with slices of buttered bread, sides and picked, drawn, wiped and an oyster placed in- 

bottoms, then filled with picked over berries, side, trussed, quickly browned in the oven with 

seasoned with sugar, covered with slices of butter. Evenly peeled potatoes (Irish or sweet) 

buttered bread, sprinkled with sugar, slowly split in halves lengthwise, hollowed out, the 

baked till brown and glazy; served with fruit bird placed in, tied with string, baked and 

sauce. basted with butter; when the potato is done, 

BLACKBERRY TARTLETTES Small fancy so is the bird; served with game sauce poured 

molds lined with puff paste with a crimped around, and fancy croutons at ends, 

edge, filled with a dry compote of blackberries; BLACKFISH A black skinned fish of the perch 

baked; when done, the centre decorated with species, found plentifully South, 

piped meringue. FRIED BLACKFISH WITH BACON The 

BLACKBERRY COMPOTE The picked over fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in flour; 

berries put into a boiling syrup and simmered the bacon fried; the fish then fried in the 

till tender; served in small croustades of sweet- bacon fat; served with a slice of the bacon, 

ened rice. garnished with chip potatoes, parsley, and a 

BLACKBERRY PIE Pie plates lined with pie slice of lemon. 

paste, berries mixed with sugar and a dusting BROILED BLACKFISH WITH PARSLEY 

of flour, the plates filled, little baking soda BUTTER The fish scaled, trimmed, scored, 

sprinkled over the fruit to prevent the juice brushed with melted butter, seasoned, rolled in 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



flour, brushed again with butter and broiled; 
served with m&itre d'hotel butter poured over 
the fish, and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 

BLACKFISH SAUTE WITH FINE HERBS 
The fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in 
flour, sauted in butter, then placed in another 
sautoir containing fines herbes sauce, simmered 
for a few minutes, served with some of the 
sauce poured around, and garnished with Par- 
isienne potatoes. 

BAKED BLACKFISH, OYSTER SAUCE The 
fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, placed in a 
baking pan, brown oyster sauce strained over 
the fish, baked to a glazy appearance; served 
with a brown oyster sauce poured over the fish, 
and garnished with small potato croquettes. 

BOILED BLACKFISH, ITALIAN SAUCE 
The fish scaled, trimmed and put to boil in 
boiling water containing an onion stuck with 
cloves, slices of carrots, salt, bay leaves and a 
little vinegar, simmered till done; served with 
a white Italian sauce, and garnished with quart- 
ers of small potatoes sprinkled with parsley. 

BLACKDIVER Name of a wild duck held in 
great esteem by epicures, is at its best in the 
form of salmis, or braised and served with a 
little grated chocolate dissolved in the sauce. 

BLACK COCK Often seen on "bills of fare" as 
Coq de Bruyere, Heath fowl, Black game and 
Black grouse. 

BRAISED BLACK GROUSE The bird picked, 
singed, drawn and wiped, the breast larded 
with thin strips of seasoned larding pork; 
placed in a saucepan with some bacon trim- 
mings, carrot, onions, whole cloves and peppers, 
moistened with a game sauce and a dash of 
tarragon vinegar, simmered in the oven till 
tender; when done ; taken up, the braise strained 
Burgundy wine added to it, then reduced; the 
bird served with some of the sauce poured over 
it, and garnished with small sausage balls. 

BROILED BLACK COCK WITH JELLY 
The young birds picked, singed, drawn and 
wiped, split down the back, backbone and breast 
bone removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brushed with butter, broiled; served on toast 
with a sauce made of jelly and butter melted 
and beaten together, poured over the bird, a 
little currant jelly served separate, garnished 
with chip potatoes, and a sprig of parsley. 

SALMIS OF HEATH FOWL The birds picked, 
drawn, singed and wiped, disjointed, roasted 
lightly; placed in a saucepan with game sauce, 
made from the head, feet, liver, heart, neck 
and gizzard; simmered till tender, seasoned 
with sherry wine and essence of mushrooms; 
served with some of the sauce poured over the 
bird, and garnished with fried button mush- 
rooms. 

ROAST BLACK GAME, BREAD SAUCE 
The bird picked, drawn, singed, wiped and 
trussed, roasted with a slice of bacon tied over 



the breast, when nearly done, the bacon re- 
moved, the breast dredged with flour and 
melted butter, then browned; served with bread 
sauce, and some of the gravy poured around. 

BLACK PUDDING Often seen on the bill of 
fare as "Boudin Noir," they are made of sheeps, 
or pigs' blood and chopped suet, seasoned, 
filled into intestines, smoked, boiled, and when 
cold, served in thin slices as an appetiser. 

BLOATERS Are smoked herrings, and the best 
are imported from "YARMOUTH" a sea port 
city of England, which city has never found an 
equal rival in this production. 

TOASTED BLOATERS The head removed 
with the entrails without opening the fish, 
which is done by cutting the neck across the 
back and drawing the entrails with the gills, 
they are then washed in cold water, wiped dry. 
and slowly broiled; served with melted butter, 
garnished with lemon and parsley. 

BAKED YARMOUTH BLOATERS IN SAUCE 
The fish drawn, then blanched, taken up and 
skinned, the flesh lifted off in fillets free from 
bone, then laid in pan, and covered with a thick 
anchovy sauce containing a little bloater paste, 
sprinkled with grated cheese and bread crumbs, 
baked; served garnished with fancy potatoes. 

YARMOUTH BLOATERS SAUTES The fil- 
lets prepared as in the preceding, then lightly 
fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, 
sprinkled with chopped parsley; served on toast 
garnished with lemon and parsley. 

BLUEFISH A great favorite and in good de- 
mand in any form on the bill of fare, although 
baked or broiled have the most calls; a six 
pound fish cuts to best advantage for restaurant 
use, cutting five good portions; a four to five 
pound fish being too thin for restaurants, but 
just the thing for a course dinner. 

BLUEFISH STUFFED AND BAKED The 
fish scaled, trimmed, wiped dry and filled with 
a stuffing composed of cooked veal two parts, 
boiled bacon one part, and grated bread crumbs 
one part, the meat chopped fine, then mixed 
with the bread crumbs, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, marjoram, thyme, mace, and lemon 
juice, mixed thoroughly and slightly moistened 
with fish broth; when filled, the opening sewn 
np, the fish dredged with flour and put in a pan 
with carrot, turnip, onion, a few cloves, claret 
wine and consomme; baked; when done, taken 
up, and to the pan is added some Espagnole 
sauce; boiled up, strained; served with some 
of the sauce, and garnished with Duchesse 
potatoes. 

BLUEFISH STEAKS, ITALIAN SAUCE The 
fish cut into steaks, and arranged in a buttered 
pan containing some minced shallots, white 
wine and mushroom liquor, covered with a 
sheet of buttered paper, baked; when done, 
taken up, some Italian sauce strained into the 
pan, boiled up, and strained back into a rich 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

Italian sauce; served with some of the sauce a buttered baking pan, moistened with anchovy 
poured over, and garnished with Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with grated bread crumbs and 
potatoes. melted butter, baked; served with anchovy 

BAKED BLUEFISH WITH TOMATOES sauce, and garnished with Parisienne potatoes. 

The fish cut in portions, seasoned, dredged BAKED BLUEFISH, MATELOTE SAUCE 
with flour, placed in a buttered pan, to which The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, brushed with 
is added minced onions, tomato sauce, and a butter, arranged in pan, moistened with claret 
can of tomatoes that have been strained from wine, baked; when done on one side, turned 
their juice; baked; when done, served with over and browned on the other, then taken up, 
some of the tomatoes poured around, and gar- and to the wine in the pan is added some Es- 
nished with small potato croquettes. pagnole sauce and mushroom liquor, boiled up, 

BOILED BLUEFISH, SHRIMP SAUCE The strained, skimmed, finished with grated nut- 
fish cut in portions, put to boil in boiling fish meg and anchovy butter, the fish served with 
broth containing salt, peppers, cloves, carrot some of the sauce poured around, and garnished 
and onion in slices, with a dash of vinegar; with Victoria potatoes. 

when done, served with a shrimp sauce poured BOUCHEE A French word which means 
around, and garnished with quartered steamed "mouthful;" it is used to designate certain 
potatoes sprinkled with maitre d'hotel butter. specimens of cookery, both savory and sweet, 

BROILED BLUEFISH WITH ANCHOVY that are filled into puff paste and sponge cake 
BUTTER The fish cut in portions, seasoned, patty cases, hence, a Bouche"e is a small patty, 

dredged with flour, brushed with butter, broiled; BOUCHEE OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded, the 
when done, served with some anchovy butter liquor made into a sauce, oysters cut into dice, 
on top of the fish, and garnished with chip po- added to the finished sauce, seasoned with 
tatoes, parsley, and a slice of lemon. lemon juice and anchovy essence, filled into 

BAKED BLUEFISH WITH FINE HERBS puff paste patty shells, and served. 

The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredge with BOUCHEE OF CHICKEN Breast of chicker 
flour, arranged in buttered baking pan, covered (cooked) cut into dice, mixed into a rich ve"loute 
with a fines-herbes sauce, baked; served with sauce, made hot, filled into patty shells and 
some of the sauce poured around, and garnished served. 

with potatoes chateau. Bluefish prepared as BOUCHEE OF GAME Any cold cocked game 
in the recipe just given, may also be served and may be used, and if desired can be so named 
baked with Piquante, Bordelaise and Tomato instead of the word "game," the meat cut in 
sauces. small squares, and made hot in a sauce approp- 

BLUEFISH SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE riate to the game used, filled into small patty 
The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredged with shells and served. 

flour, fried in butter; when done, taken up, and BOUCHEE OF FOIE-GRAS This is served 
into the pan they were fried in, some butter cold. The foie-gras is cut into small pieces, 
sauce is added, boiled up, and strained into put into patty shells with limpid aspic jelly, 
another sautoir containing minced fried shal- and served when set. 

lots, capers, grated lemon rind, and pounded BOUCHEE OF SWEETBREADS The sweet- 
anchovies; boiled, skimmed, the fish served with breads broiled, cut into small squares, made 
the sauce poured around, and garnished with hot in a white Italian sauce, the warm patty 
Cond6 potatoes. shells filled and served. 

BLUEFISH SAUTE WITH ANCHOVIES BOUCHEE OF LOBSTERS Fresh boiled lob- 
Tbe fish cut into portions, seasoned, dredged ster meat cut in dice, made hot in a Supreme 
with flour, fried in butter, taken up; into the sauce, filled into the patty shells and served. 

pan is then put some minced shallots; when BOUCHEE WITH RAGOUT The patty shells 
browned, anchovy paste and lemon juice added, filled with a mixture of smoked tongue, breast 
with a little Bordelaise sauce, boiled up, of chicken, truffles and mushrooms; all cut 
strained; served with some of the sauce, and small and made hot in a Supreme sauce, cover 
garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. put on and served, (called, BOUCHEES a la 

STUFFED FILLETS OF BLUEFISH The REINE). 

fish filleted and cut in portions, seasoned, BOUCHEE WITH MARROW The spinal 
dredged with flour, quickly broiled on the cut marrow of beef cut in pieces, cooked in a sauce 
side, the broiled part spread with a thick Albert, filled into the patty shells and served. 

veMout( sauce containing grated ham, minced BOUCHEE WITH GAME PUREE Tlie patty 
fried shallots, mushrooms and chopped parsley; shells filled with a rich pure"e of any form of 
when all ire spread, placed skin side down in game, highly seasoned, (called, BOUCHEES k 
a buttered baking pan, with a little white wine, la ST. HUBERT). 

baked; served with parsley sauce poured around BOUCHEE OF CRAYFISH TAILS The meat 
and garnished with potato quenelles. from the tails of fresh boiled crayfish, cut up 

BAKED BLUEFISH IN CRUMBS The fish and made hot in a cream parsley sauce, filled 
cut into portion pieces, seasoned, arranged in into the patty shells and served. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BOUCHEE WITH SALPICON Cooked poul- 
try or game cut small, made hot in a rich sauce, 
filled into the patty shells and served. 

8OUCHEE WITH OX PALATES The patty 
shell filled with a mixture of small cut pieces 
of braized ox palate and mushrooms, made hot 
in Allemande sauce. 

BOUCHEE OF SARDINES The sardines 
made into a paste with Gruyere cheese, salt, 
pepper and chili vinegar, mix with a few scald- 
ed oysters cut small, the patty shells filled and 
served, garnished with hard boiled yolks of 
eggs rubbed through a sieve, resembling ver- 
micelli. 

BOUCHEE WITH MUSHROOMS Slices of 
button mushrooms lightly fried in butter, then 
put into a rich Madeira sauce, made hot, filled 
into the patty shells, and the opening filled with 
a cork made of a mushroom nicely glazed. 

BOUCHEE OF REEDBIRD The reedbird 
boned, stuffed, braized with wine, taken up. 
glazed, jointed, put in the patty shells, some 
Perigueux sauce poured in and served. 

BOUCHEE OF WOODCOCK Snipe, Larks, 
Ricebirds and Ortolans, may be prepared and 
served same as the preceding. 

BOUCHEE OF ANCHOVIES Coiled anchov^ 
ies in oil, taken out and drained, Mayonnaise 
sauce beaten with stiff aspic jelly and a dash of 
tarragon vinegar, the anchovies dipped into it, 
and filled into cold patty shells, the top then 
decorated with a cover made of aspic jelly, and 
served. 

BOUCHEE OF SOLE The sole filleted and 
braised, cut in small pieces, when cold, put into 
the patty shells, limpid fish jelly poured in, the 
top decorated with Montpelier butter and 
served. 

BOUCHEE OF SALMON- -Cold cooked salmon 
in flakes, mixed with Ravigote sauce, filled into 
the patty shells, the top decorated with Mayon- 
naise and studded with capers. 

BOUCHEE OF ORANGES The patty shell 
used for sweet bouchees is made of a rich stiff 
"lady finger mixture" forced out of a pastry 
bag in rings one on top of the other to the de- 
sired height, sprinkled with pink sugar, baked 
and glazed, the oranges peeled and separated 
in sections, then simmered in an orange syrup; 
when done, taken up and drained, put into the 
boucb^es, the top decorated with a flavored 
water icing(called, BOUCHEES a la SEVILLE) 

BOUCHEES OF PLUMS The shell made as 
in the preceding, the plums peeled, stoned and 
cut in slices, simmered in syrup, taken up and 
drained, put into the bouche'es, limpid sweet 
jelly poured in; when the jelly is set, the top 
decorated and served. 

BOUCHEE OF PEACHES Prepared the same 
as the preceding, substituting peaches for 
plums. Strawberries, cherries and red rasp- 
berries may also be treated this way. 

BOUDIN The French name for a pudding made 



of meats, game, poultry and fish, In the form 
of cakes or sausages. 

BOUDIN NOIR Or black pudding, see (blacK 
pudding). 

BOUDIN OF VEAL Finely minced veal and 
bacon seasoned with aromatic herbs, then made 
into small sausage shapes, poached in white 
stock, served with a sauce Perigueux, (called, 
BOUDIN DE VEAU). 

BOUDIN OF RABBIT Same as the preceding, 
substituting rabbit for the veal; served with a 
light game sauce, (called, BOUDIN DE LA- 
PIN). 

BOUDIN OF HARE Same as the preceding, 
substituting hare for rabbit, (called, BOUDIN 
DE LIEVRE). 

BOUDIN OF FOWL Cold white chicken or 
turkey meat pounded to a paste with a season- 
ing of nutmeg, salt, red pepper, lemon juice 
and herbs, the paste forced into a skin, plunged 
into boiling white stock till thoroughly heated 
through, taken up, served cold in slices alter- 
nately with slices of black pudding, (called 
BOUDIN BLANC). 

BOULETTES OF GAME The word boulette 
signifies "ball" and is used very seldom, except 
to describe a garnish. "Boulettes of potatoes" 
are what is better known as potatoes Victoria. 
Boulettes of game are made of a highly sea- 
soned mince of cold game, breaded and fried. 

BOUILLABAISSE A national soup of the Latin 
race, composed of pieces of fish (boned and 
skinned), garlic, chopped parsley, bay leaves, 
tomatoes, leeks, onions, lobster, savory herbs, 
potatoes, olive oil and saffron, fried, then sim- 
mered till done; served in platefuls with slices 
of toast dried in the oven. 

BROCHETTE A skewer on which are threaded 
small delicate meats, etc., to be cooked, and 
served with or without the skewer; also used 
by confectioners to thread fruit on before can- 
dying them. 

BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS Oysters, bacon 
and sweetbreads (optional), the bacon and 
sweetbreads cut in slices same length as the 
oysters, seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered 
thyme and chopped parsley, the oysters and 
sweetbreads dipped in beaten eggs, then rolled 
in fresh grated bread crumbs, threaded alter- 
nately on the skewer with the bacon; when full, 
fried in hot fat, served with some heated to- 
mato catsup, that is seasoned with anchovy 
essence poured around, and garnished with 
lemon and parsley, 

BROCHETTE OF LAMB KIDNEYS The 
kidneys with the skin removed and split in two 
without quite severing, threaded on the skewer 
flat, quickly broiled for an instant over a hot 
fire, then taken off and seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and ground mint, dipped in veloute 1 sauce, 
then fresh grated bread crumbs, brushed with 
melted butter and broiled over a slow fire till 



22 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

done; served with a sauce Colbert poured pickled pork cut in slices same size as the kid- 
around, neys, threaded alternately on skewer, rolled in 

BROCHETTE OF SPRING LAMB Circular olive oil, then breaded and fried; served with 
steaks of the leg of raw lamb, one cutlet of the Robert sauce containing a dash of anchovy 
leg making about three steaks, laid for an hour essence poured around, and garnished with a 
in a mixture of minced shallots, chives, mint, small baked and glazed apple, 
garlic, lemon juice, nutmeg, melted butter, salt BROCHETTE OF MUTTON Cutlets from 
and pepper, then taken up, rolled in fresh the leg or loin, cut into even sized pieces, sea- 
grated bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer, soned with a mixture of salt, pepper, cinnamon 
broiled till done and served with Colbert sauce and powdered savory, threaded on skewer, ar- 
poured around. ranged in baking pan, moistened with a thin 

BROCHETTE OF VEAL Cold cooked veal and tomato sauce, roasted and basted with it; served 
boiled ham cut into even sized pieces, the veal with tomato sauce poured around, and gar- 
seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered mar- nished with chip potatoes. 

joram, threaded alternately on the skewer, BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS Prepared and 

breaded, fried, served with white Italian sauce served the same way as the recipe given for 

poured around, and garnished with watercress. "brochette of oysters." 

BROCHETTE OF DUCK LIVERS The liver BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS The 

is par-boiled, then prepared and cooked the sweetbreads soaked, blanched, then boiled till 

same way as "chicken livers" following; served tender with vegetables and spices, taken up, 

with Bigarrade sauce poured around, and gar- drained, skinned, pressed till cold, cut in pieces, 

nished with water cress and lemon. then cut circular with the largest sized column 

BROCHETTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS The cutter; slices of cold cooked tongue the same 

livers washed and dried, seasoned with salt and way; both dipped in cooling white Italian sauce; 

pepper, slices of bacon Rightly broiled, then cut when cold, rolled in fresh grated bread crumbs, 

in pieces same size as the livers, the skewer then threaded alternately on the skewer; when 

threaded with them alternately; when all on full, breaded, fried, served with white Italian 

rolled in melted butter or olive oil, then in sauce poured around. 

fresh grated bread crumbs, broiled, served on BROCHETTE OF SMELTS A judicious way 

a slice of narrow toast with miitre d'hotel but- of using up the small smelts; the fish wiped, 

ter poured over, and garnished with water after entrails are drawn, seasoned with salt and 

cress. pepper, rolled in flour, then in beaten eggs and 

BROCHETTE OF GEESE LIVERS The liv- fresh bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer 
ers boiled in stock till done, then cut into slices; through the gills, fried in hot fat, taken up, 
smoked cooked tongue the tip end cut in slices drained; served with or without tartar or to- 
same size as the livers; both dipped in cooling mato sauce, garnished with lemon and parsley. 
Perigueux sauce; when cold, threaded alter- BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS The 
nately on the skewer, rolled in grated bread brains soaked, skinned, washed, blanched in 
crumbs, then breaded and fried, served with boiling water containing a little vinegar, taken 
Perigueux sauce poured around, and garnished up, drained, cut in even sized pieces; also 
with water cress and lemon. bacon cut the same size; the brains seasoned 

BROCHETTE OF TURKEY LIVERS The with salt, pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and 

livers blanched, cut in slices, lightly sauteed chopped parsley, threaded on the skewer alter- 

with finely minced shallots, garlic and chives, nately with the bacon, rolled in melted butter, 

taken up, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper then in bread crumbs, broiled, served with 

and lemon juice, threaded alternately on skewer Ravigote sauce, and garnished with watercress 

with pieces of half broiled bacon, dipped in and lemon. 

melted butter, then bread crumbs, beaten eggs BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER Cold boiled 

and bread crumbs again, broiled, served with lobster meat cut in pieces and marinaded in a 

Hanover sauce poured around, and garnished mixture of salt, pepper, nutmeg and Worces- 

with watercress. tershire sauce for an hour, then threaded on 

8ROCHETTE OF EELS The eels skinned skewer alternately with the large head of a 

and cut into inch pieces, steeped for an hour button mushroom, rolled in butter, then in. 

in equal quantities of olive oil and vinegar, fresh bread crumbs, broiled, served with mditre 

with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and thyme; d'hotel butter mixed with anchovy essence 

then placed on skewer alternately with bacon, poured around, and garnished with parsley and 

arranged on a baking pan with some of the lemon. 

marinade poured over them; roasted for ten BROCHETTE OF RABBIT Raw young rab- 

minutes, taken up, drained, breaded, fried and bit meat and cold boiled salt pork cut in even 

served with tartar sauce. sized pieces, the rabbit saute*ed in butter with 

8ROCHETTE OF PIGS' KIDNEYS The kid- fine herbs, taken up and threaded alternately 

neys par-boiled, cut in slices, seasoned with on the skewer with the salt pork, seasoned with 

salt, pepper and powdered sage; told boiled a mixture of salt, pepper and powdered herbs, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Dreaded, fried, and served with brown Italian 
sauce poured around. 

BROCHETTE OF TURKEY Slices of light 
and dark meat of cold cooked turkey, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cool- 
ing Supreme sauce; when cold, rolled in bread 
crumbs, then breaded and fried; served with 
sauce Supreme. 

BROCHETTE OF LAMB FRIES Prepared, 
cooked, and served the same way as the recipe 
given for 'brochette of calf's brains," tomato 
sauce to be used instead of ravigote. 

BROCHETTE OF SCALLOPS The scallops 
drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped 
parsley, breaded, placed alternately on skewer 
with pieces of bacon fried, served, with Alle- 
mande sauce contaiinng a little lobster coral. 

BROCHETTE OF REED BIRDS The birds 
picked, drawn, wiped, and trussed with the 
head tucked under the wing, a small ball of 
m&itre d'hotel butter and the liver of the bird 
minced and put inside, threaded alternately on 
the skewer with a piece of cold boiled bacon, 
seasoned, broiled, served on toast and garnished 
with parsley and lemon. 

BROCHETTE OF CRAYFISH TAILS The 
fresh boiled meat of the crayfish tails, prepared 
and served the same way as the recipe given 
for "brochette of lobster." 

BRINE A preserving and flavoring mixture of 
salt, spices, saltpetre and water is the best 
thing to put meats into that are just on the 
turn; after first washing them and rubbing 
them over with powdered charcoal or borax, 
and again thoroughly washing them. For mix- 
ture see "corned beef." 

BRIE Name of a very- rich cream cheese made 
near Paris, France, is of a circular form, an 
inch thick, wrapped in parchment paper, put 
into thin wooden boxes and imported to this 
country; it is, however, very much, and fairly 
well imitated by our own cheese manufacturers. 

BRANDY A spirit distilled from wines, is clear 
and sparkling. In the year 1878 the vineyards 
of the Charente were devastated by the phyl- 
loxera, causing the annual production, which 
averaged 170,000,000 gallons, to fall in 1898 to 
only 11,000,000; consequently, since 1878, only 
a very small quantity of genuine brandy has 
been shipped to this country, the bulk being a 
blend of grain spirit flavored with brandy. An 
oil distilled from brandy is used with a spirit 
in producing an imitation that is sold as cook- 
ing brandy. 

BRANDY SAUCE Water, lemon juice, sugar 
and grated nutmeg brought to the boil, butter 
and flour sizzling in another sauce pan, the 
flavored water strained into it, stirring at the 
same time, allowed to simmer for a few min- 
utes, taken from the fire, and brandy to the de- 
sired flavor added. 

BREAD A combination of flour, salt, sugar, 
water and yeast, mixed, set to rise, kneaded, 



risen again, molded, proved and baked. The 
different kinds of bread on the market is legion, 
and with all sorts of claims, principally for the 
benefit of health and digestion, such as "whole 
meal," "gluten," "aerated," "steamed," "die- 
titic," "diabetic," "buttermilk," "dyspepsia," 
etc., which argument may be based on sound 
doctrine or not, at least, doctors, chemists and 
anylists, are continually arguing the pro. and 
con. of the different claimants as the following 
quotation will show for itself. 

WHITE VERSUS BROWN BREAD There 
appeared in the St. Bartholomew's Hospital 
report a very interesting communication on the 
relative digestibility of white and brown bread 
by Drs. Lauder, Brunton and Tunnicliffe. 
While the authors admit that, regarded from a 
purely chemical point of view, the nutritive 
value of brown bread is greater than white, 
they maintain that this is not so when consid- 
ered from the physiological side. The authors 
point out that it is absurd to take the mere 
chemical composition as an index of the value 
of food stuff, as a stick of charcoal, the atmos- 
pheric air, a little water, some sea salt, contain 
all the elements of a typical diet. Hence, the 
greatest importance attaches not only to the 
composition, but to the ways in which the var- 
ious constituents are combined so that they 
can be readily and easily assimilated. The 
conclusion that the authors come to is mainly 
that, although brown bread, both on account 
of its large percentage of mineral matters and 
fat forming constituents, is chemically superior 
to white bread, yet these constituents do not so 
readily pass into the blood as in the case of 
white bread, and that, weight for weight, white 
bread is more nutritious than brown. In spec- 
ial cases where there is a deficiency of mineral 
matter, and especially in cases of growing 
children, when large quantities of these are 
required for production of bone and tissue, 
brown bread may be useful, but even in these 
cases, if these mineral salts, and especially 
salts of calcium, are supplied by other means, 
white bread is preferable to brown. 

BRAINS Of animals are esteemed by the cook 
in producing delicate entries, and are remuner- 
ative to the proprietor on account of their small 
cost. They must, before cooking, be thor- 
oughly cleansed of the skin and blood that 
covers them; they are easily digested, and fairly 
nutritious. 

SCRAMBLED BRAINS Pigs, sheep, calf or 
beef brains, as there is scarcely any difference 
in the flavor, being all composed of the same 
material, are cleansed, par-boiled in salted 
water with a dash of vinegar, taken up, drained, 
cut into small pieces, added to an equal volume 
of beaten eggs, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, poured into a pan containing butter, 
and scrambled around till set. Served on toast 
(optional), garnished with croutons and parsley. 



THE CULIN/HY HANDBOOK. 



24 

BRAIN FORCEMEAT Cold boiled brains sauce, and garnished with parsley. 

minced, then pounded to a paste with flour, BRAISED BRAINS WITH STUFFED TO- 

MATOES The brains blanched, trimmed, and 
arranged in a sautoir with carrot, onion, pars- 
ley, bay leaves and cloves, moistened with 
white stock, covered with a sheet of buttered 
paper, braised till done, taken up, the liquor 
skimmed and strained into a Velout sauce, re 
duced, the brains served with some of the sauce 



egg yolks; seasoned with nutmeg, salt, pepper 
and chopped parsley. 

BRAIN CROQUETTES WITH PEAS The 
croquettes formed in cone shapes of "brain 
forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with a frill 
stuck into the croquette, and garnished with 
green peas at the ends of the dish, with Alle- 
mande sauce at side 

BRAIN CUTLETS, VILLEROI SAUCE The 



poured over them, and garnished with small 
stuffed tomatoes. 



cutlets size and shape of small lamb chops BRAISED BRAINS, SAUCE REMOULADE 



made of "brain forcemeat" with a piece of 
macaroni to represent the bone, breaded, fried; 
served with Villeroi sauce poured around. 
BRAIN CAKES WITH BACON The cakes 
size and shape of small codfish cakes, made of 
train forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with 
a slice of broiled bacon and Bechamel sauce 
poured around. 



The brains prepared and cooked the same way 
as in the preceding recipe, with the addition of 
a little white wine to the moistening stock; 
when done, the braise skimmed, strained and 
reduced to a glaze, then mixed into a hot Re- 
moulade sauce; served with the sauce poured 
over the brains, and garnished with fancy 
croutons. 



ROAST BRAINS WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS BRAISED BRAINS WITH MUSHROOMS 



Calf's brains par-boiled and trimmed, sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted 
butter, then rolled in flour, quickly roasted and 
basted with butter; served garnished with fried 
balls of "brain forcemeat" and fines herbes 
sauce poured around. 

SCALLOPED BRAINS IN SHELL Cold 
cooked brains in slices, mixed with a white 
Italian sauce, filled into scallop shells, sprinkled 
with grated cheese and bread crumbs, baked 
served in the shells (called, CERVEAUX EN 
COQUILLE AU GRATIN). 

BRAINS AND MUSHROOMS IN CASES 
Cold cooked brains and button mushrooms cut 
in neat pieces, tossed in butter over a quick 
fire to color lightly, then moistened with Su- 
prSme sauce; served in fancy paper cases. 

CALF'S BRAINS AND TONGUE, MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE The brains par-boiled and 
trimmed, the tongues boiled, skinned, trimmed 
and cut lengthwise, dipped in cooling Piquante 
sauce; when cold, both breaded and fried; 
served with mushroom sauce. 

FRIED BRAINS WITH BROWN BUTTER 
The brains blanched and trimmed, seasoned, 
brushed with butter, rolled in flour, dipped in 



The brains blanched, trimmed, and arranged 
in a sautoir with slices of bacon, vegetables and 
spices, moistened with white stock and juice of 
a lemon, covered with thin slices of bacon, 
braised till done, taken up, the bacon cut in 
pieces, the braise reduced to a glaze, and 
strained over some button mushrooms and 
small glazed onions, the brains sprinkled with 
fried bread crumbs, and garnished with the 
bacon, mushrooms and onions alternately. 
BRAINS IN SAUCE POULETTE WITH RICE 

The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
in poulette sauce, served with the sauce poured 
over them and garnished with small timbales 
of rice, with a small sprig of parsley stuck in 
them. 

BRAINS WITH SORREL, SAUCE RAVIGOTE 

The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
till tender in white stock with the juice of a 
lemon. Served on a bed of puree of sorrel, 
the brains masked with Ravigote sauce. 

CREAMED BRAINS WITH KIDNEY BEANS 

The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
in cream sauce till done; served masked with 
the sauce and garnished with kidney beans 
(flageolets) that have been sauteed in butter. 



beaten eggs, then fried; served with brown CROUSTADES OF BRAINS WITH ARTI- 



butter poured over them, made by melting 
butter over a quick fire till it froths and browns, 
then adding to it the juice of a lemon and some 
finely chopped parsley (called, CERVEAUX 
AU BEURRE NOIR). 

FRIED BRAINS BREADED, TARTAR 
SAUCE The brains blanched, trimmed, and 
masked with Tartar sauce, then breaded and 
fried; served with Tartar sauce at the ends of 
the dish, and Parisienne potatoes down the 
sides. 

CALF'S BRAINS, SAUCE VINAIGRETTE 
The brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till 
done in white stock, served with Vinaigrette 



CHOKES The brains prepared and cooked 
the same way as given for "braised brains with 
stuffed tomatoes"; when done, the brains cut 
in slices, mixed with the ve'loute' sauce, filled 
into paste croustades; served garnished with 
artichoke bottoms spread with " brain force- 
meat " and filled with small pieces of glazed 
calf's tongue. 

BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS See 
brochette dishes. 

BRAINS WITH RICE. TURKISH STYLE- 
Cold cooked brains worked into a creamy paste 
with cream, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon 
juice and nutmeg; the rice boiled in white stock 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 25 

with salt, butter, pepper and cinnamon; served, boiled beef and form a part of many garnitures. 

the rice in small molds, turned out onto the BRUSSELS SPROUTS BOILED As a veg- 

dish, and masked over with brains, sprinkled etable, trimmed, thoroughly washed, thrown 

with finely chopped parsley or chervil. into boiling water containing salt and a small 

BRAIN PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS piece of common washing soda, boiled tifl ten- 
Cold cooked brains cut in small dice with der with the saucepan lid OFF about fifteen 
mushrooms, made hot in Supreme sauce, filled minutes, then turned into a colander, drained, 
into patty shells, cover placed on and served. tossed with a little melted butter and served. 

SAVORY OMELET OF CALF'S BRAINS BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTEES Prepared, 

The brains prepared as in the preceding, the boiled and drained as in the preceding, then 

omelet mixture made of beaten eggs, finely cut placed in a sautoir with butter and lightly 

chives, parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the fried, seasoned with salt and pepper; served 

omelet formed, enclosing some of the mixture; either as a garnish or vegetable, 

served with more of the brains in sauce poured BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PARSLEY 

around. BUTTER Same as the preceding, but served 

CALF'S BRAINS, PARSLEY SAUCE The with MSitre D'H6tel butter poured over them. 

brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till done BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN CREAM Prepared 

in white stock; served on a slice of toast, pars- an d cooked the same as for "boiled" above, 

ley sauce poured over the brains and garnished then reheated in a good reduced cream (not 

with Hollandaise potatoes. cream sauce); served as a vegetable. 

BRAIN KROMESKIES, MADERIA SAUCE- OMELET WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS- 

Slices of cold cooked brains dipped in glaze, The above sprouts in creanii enclosed in a 

encircled with a very thin strip of cold boiled ' savory omelet; served garnished with some of 

bacon, pinned with a toothpick, dipped in bat- the sprou ts around the omelet and the cream 

ter and fried, the toothpick removed; served poured over them, 

with madeira sauce poured around. PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS The 

BROILED BRAINS WITH PARSLEY BUT- sprouts prep ared as for " brussels sprouts 

TER- The brains blanched, trimmed and cut saut ^ e s"; after sautdeing they are rubbed 

in slices, seasoned, broiled; served on toast through a fine sieve, mixed with egg yolks and 

with Maitre D'Hfitel butter poured over them butter sea soned with salt and pepper; used as 

and garnished with Julienne potatoes. a garn i sh O r in a soup; if in soup, as follows: 

BRAISE AND BRAISING A term applied to the stoc k oi good veal or chicken, seasoned 

foods that are cooked by a top and bottom heat. with salt pork and vegetables, thickened lightly 

The pot or braiser has a cover that fits tightly with roux stra i n ed, the puree then worked into 

and a receptacle to hold lighted charcoal or it Served wlth small toast . 

coke, so that the heat descends on top of the BUCK The male deer. For dishes of Buck see 

foods. The general way of the average estab- "venison." 

lishment, however, who, as a rule, are not sup- BUCKWHEAT A meal ground from the seeds 

plied with a braiser, is to take a shallow sauce- o f buckwheat, principally used in culinary 

pan or sautoir, into which is placed the foods, forms for making batter cakes. For recipes 

together with onion, carrot, parsley, bay leaves see heading of "batter." 

and whole cloves (and according to the food, BUISSON A form resembling a bush; may be 

with other accessories, but the five mentioned made by taking two circular pieces of wood 

spices and vegetables are always included in a one-half the diameter of the other, used for top 

braise) and moistened with stock or sauces, as and bottom, then nailing strips of laths **i de- 

the recipe may require; the cover of the sautoir sired height, about half an inch apart, screwing 

is then put on and placed in the oven, so that small hooks into the laths, the spaces between 

it gives an even heat, top, bottom and sides. filled up with bunches of parsley and boiled 

When the foods are cooked to requirement they crayfish or lobsters hanging by the tails from 

are taken up and the remaining liquor is called the hooks. 

BRAISE. Braising, besides imparting delicate BUTTER Takes a very prominent part in cul- 

flavors to the foods thus cooked, is also an ex- inary matters, forms some special butters used 

ceptional good way of making tough meats for garnishing and scarcely enters at all into 

tender, as the toughest parts of beef can be what are now known as 

made into fine entries by braising them. See BUTTER CAKES Composed of ten potmus cf 

braised dishes under heading of " BEEF." flour, one ounce of soda, one ounce of salt 

BRUNOISE Name given to a consomme" with mixed together dry, then moistened with three 

small cut vegetables. See "consomme." egg yolks, two ounces of melted butter and two 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS- -Called (CHOUX DE quarts of buttermilk; this is mixed and well 

BRUXELLES) are small sprouts thatgiowon broken, then is added three quarts of butter- 

the stalks of cabbages. They are very green milk and one quart of sweet milk, this brings 

and about the size of large olives when trimmed. it to the consistency of biscuit dough; spread 
They make an excellent accompaniment to out on table, let rest half an hour, then rolled 



26 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

out, let rest another half hour; again rolled out, adulterated with wheat, pea, potato flours, 

cut out with biscuit cutter, allowed to raise or chalk, potato starch, and variously colored with 

proof and baked on a griddle. yellow chrome, carrot juice, saffron, alkanet, 

ANCHOVY BUTTER Two parts of butter to marigold flowers and celandine juice, 

one part of anchovy essence, thoroughly mixed BUTTERINE OR MARGARINE Is a prepara- 

with a little grated Parmesan cheese and seas- tion of animal fats, made by working the fats 

oned with nutmeg, red pepper and a dash of at the natural heat of the animal, then pressing 

lemon juice. it by hydraulic pressure, the oil thus obtained 

CRAYFISH BUTTER Crayfish shells and is then churned with diluted milk or water. 

claws slowly dried in the oven with a little BUTTER BALL DUCK A small wild duck of 

lobster coral, pounded to a paste, then put with American origin. For receipes see " duck." 

butter and simmered for a few minutes, rubbed CABBAGE As sold in our markets are of three 

through a fine sieve into cold water, then gath- colors, white, green and red; appreciated by 

ered for use. the average guest in any of the following forms: 

LOBSTER BUTTER The head and coral of BOILED CABBAGE If young require about 

boiled lobster with its equal weight of butter fifteen minutes, if old twenty to thirty minutes 

pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy are requ ired for boiling. They should be cut 

essence and a little dry mustard, then rubbed in qua rters, the stalks removed, and then the 

through a fine sieve; gathered for use. leaves be separated. It is quite a common 

MONTPELIER BUTTER Blanched water- thmg for the cooks to boil them simply ia 

cress, chervil, tarragon and parsley, with hard quarters without separating the leaves; not 

boiled egg yolks, a few anchovies, gherkins, only is this a dirty way> but se i dom is the inner 

capers and a clove of garlic are pounded to a part done till the outer i eaves are cooked too 

paste with their equal weight f butter, a little much and ren dered tasteless. After the leaves 

tarragon vinegar and lemon juice; when are separated they should be soaked in cold 

smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve and gath- water to which is added salt; i this precaut i n 

ered for use. is neglected slugs and various small insects may 

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER To each cup be retained in the leaves. When thoroughly 

of melted butter is added a large spoonful of was hed put to boil in boiling salted water with 

chopped parsley, juice of two lemons, seasoned a small piece o{ common washing soda; cook 

with salt, red pepper and nutmeg. them with the saucep an lid OFF. As the smell 

PEPPER BUTTER Three medium sized green of boiling cabbage of ten reaches the guests- 
peppers pounded to a paste with one pound of rooms over the kitchen, a piece of stale bread 
butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve and crust or charcoal tied in a piece of muslin 
gathered for use. boiled with the cabbage, will be found to obvi- 

RAVIGOTE BUTTER Blanched chives, pars- ate the smell When done they should be 

ley, tarragon and shallots, pounded to a paste turned into a colander and the water pressed 

with butter, lemon juice and a dash of anchovy cut> then sea soned with salt, pepper and but- 

essence, then rubbed through a fine sieve and ter The too common way of sending cabbage 

gathered for use. to the tab i e fl oat i n g in the water it was boiled 

GARLIC BUTTER A few cloves of garlic are in cannot be condemned too strongly. 

pounded to a paste with olive oil and butter; BAKED CABBAGE WITH HAM -Fresh 

when smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve; boiled cabbage with the water pressed ontf 

gathered for use. ixed ith drawn b tt laced j baki 

HORSERADISH BUTTER-Four ounces of ink , ed wjth grated P cheese and ham g 

fine grated horseradish to each pound of butter baked> seryed wkh & slice Q roast ham Qn t 

pounded to a paste, then rubbed through a STEWED C ABBAGE-Fresh boiled and pressed 

sieve and gathered for use. Many people like . , , , . , 

this on broiled steaks instead of Mditre D'H6td C f> ba f Cut fine ' then sau teed in butter, sur- 

b plus butter poured off, covered with cream 

SHRIMP BUTTER-Equal weight of shrimp sauce - simmered for a few minutes and served, 
meat (canned or fresh), pounded to a paste with CREAMED CABBAGE Coarsely shred cab- 
butter, then rubbed through a sieve and gath- bage, thoroughly washed, boiled, drained, then 
ered for use. mixed with cream sauce. 

DRAWN BUTTER Half a pound of clear STUFFED CABBAGE Whole cabbage par- 
melted butter, put on fire in a saucepan with boiled, the heart removed, its place filled with 
two ounces of flour, mixed together, pint of a stuffing of finely chopped cooked meat and 
boiling water stirred into it, simmered for a sausage meat mixed together, the aperture 
minute, then ready for use. covered with a slice of salt pork, tied, placed 

BUTTER ADULTERATIONS Although on in a saucepan with white stock and a little 

account of the strict pure food laws are rare, sherry wine, cover put on, and simmered till 

still country butter as is often to be purchased done ; served with a good brown gravy poured 

by the steward na th open market is sometimes around. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 27 

BRAISED CABBAGE Cabbage cut in halves, with fried or boiled sausages on top, and a 

thoroughly picked over and washed, boiled not brown gravy poured around, 

quite done, taken up and drained, the stalk COLESLAW Finely shred cabbage mixed with 

then removed and the two halves put together pepper, salt, sugar, oil and vinegar; also the 

and tied, resembling the whole cabbage, braised plain shred cabbage served as an adjunct to 

with white stock for an hour, then taken up, fried or stewed oysters. 

drained ; served as a vegetable or cut in shapes CABBAGE SALAD Finely shred cabbage, some 

to be used as a garniture. bacon cut in dice and fried ; while still in the 

FRIED CABBAGE WITH BACON Fresh pan, equal parts of water and vinegar, with a 

boiled, pressed, and seasoned cabbage cut fine, seasoning of salt and pepper added to it, boiled, 

fried in bacon fat ; served with a slice of boiled cooled, then mixed with the cabbage. 

bacon on top. RED CABBAGE SALAD The cabbage finely 

CABBAGE TIMBALES Cabbage prepared and washed, drained, then covered with vinegar, 

cooked the same as for "boiled cabbage"; then dredged with salt and pepper and steeped for a 

well pressed, finely chopped and mixed with few hours, then drained and mixed with French 

lightly fried minced onion, put in a safitoir with dressing; served garnished with shred celery 

a little butter and simmered with the lid on for in mayonnaise. 

fifteen minutes, then allowed to cool; while HOT SLAW Finely shred cabbage washed 

cooling, equal parts of sausage meat and fresh and drained, put in saucepan with butter, 

bread crumbs with a few beaten eggs and lid put on and simmered till nearly done, 

chopped parsley are thoroughly mixed together; water, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a little sugar 

the timbale molds are then buttered, a piece of then added, and finish cooking till tender ; 

bacon put in, the sides lined with blanched finished by working in some beaten eggs till 

cabbage leaves, the cabbage and stuffing then smooth, yellow and creamy, 

filled in the molds in alternate layers till full, PICKLED CABBAGE Finely shred red cabbage 

another piece of bacon put on the top, the tim- thoroughly dredged with salt and placed in large 

bales then baked in a moderate oven for about colander or sieve to drain for several hours, 

an hour, the bacon removed, cabbage turned then washed, drained, and packed in jars with 

out and the inner piece of bacon removed ; a few whole peppers, bay leaves and a little 

served with a good brown gravy poured over thyme, the jar then filled up with white wine 

and around. vinegar containing beet juice (or a boiled beet 

BAKED CABBAGE WITH CHEESE Fresh ma y be put in with the cabbage), cover of jar 

boiled and pressed cabbage seasoned with salt, pu t O n, kept in a cold place ; ready for use in 

pepper and butter, arranged in layers in baking about a month. 

pan, each layer sprinkled with grated cheese, PICKLED CABBAGE Two gallons of finely 

top layer with grated cheese and bread crumbs chopped cabbage, one pound of chopped onions, 

mixed, sprinkled with butter, baked and served half pound each of red and green peppers cut 

(called Cabbage au Gratin). in shreds, mixed together, with one pound of 

PAUPIETTES OF CABBAGE Blanched cab- salt, placed in a crock and stood over night; 

bage leaves, taken about four thick, the outer then taken out, put in colander and well pres- 

one being the largest, the inner one spread with S ed; then put in crock in layers, and on each 

sausage meat mixed with boiled rice, shallots, layer sprinkle mustard seeds and a few cloves 

chopped parsley and chives, then rolled up and till all in, covered with cider vinegar; when 

tied, arranged in a sautoir till full, little broth vinegar sinks, the next day, fill it up so that 

added, cover put on and simmered till done ; the cabbage is covered; ready for use in two 

served with brown gravy or as a garniture. days. 

BOILED CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE The SAUERKRAUT This is finely shred cabbage 

cabbage boiled and pressed, chopped, then packed in barrels in layers with salt and allowed 

mixed with small pieces of boiled bacon and to sour. It is a nasty smelling troublesome 

Allemande sauce. thing to attend to in hotel life, and can really 

CABBAGE WITH EGGS Fresh boiled and be bought better and cheaper than by home 

pressed cabbage finely chopped, placed in a preparation. When to be cooked, it is thor- 

sautoir with a little drawn butter and vinegar, oughly washed and slowly boiled for two or 

stirred over a quick fire for a few minutes till three hours with carrot, onion stuck with clove? 

smooth and creamy; served garnished with and a piece of ham or bacon. If to be served 

quartered hard boiled eggs and sprinkled with with frankfurters, or sausages, they are boiled 

finely chopped eggs. in it. 

STEWED RED CABBAGE WITH SAUSAGES CAFE Pronounced KAFFAY. The name used 

Shred the cabbage as for cold slaw, wash, to signify a restaurant or place where coffee is 

drain, place it in a saucepan with butter and to be obtained. It is the French word for 

simmer it with the lid on for half an hour, then coffee, often seen on the bill of fare as "cafe" 

put in some slices of salt pork and white stock noir" which means black coffee or strong coffee, 

and cook till done ; take up and drain ; serve CASES Are fanciful shaped pieces of paper 



a8 THE cULINARY HANDBOOK. 

made to noia and serve delicate foods; also with minced truffle peelings and parsley, gar- 
made , by the cook of rice, potatoes, turnips, nished with saut^ed oysJers and the mushrooms, 
etc.; most of ten seen on the bill of fare as EN BAKED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE MAINTE- 
CAISSE. NON Calf's head meat cut in slices, dipped 
CAILLES French name for "quails;" when in D'Uxelles sauce, then in cracker crumbs, 
spoken the two ELLS are silent. then breaded and arranged in a buttered baking 
CALIPEE AND CALIPASH The first is the pan, brushed over with butter, baked till brown, 
name given to the meat attached to the lower, served with a Maintenon sauce poured over, 
and the last to the meat attached to upper shells "See sauces." 

of a turtle. CALF'S HEAD WITH BACON AND PARS- 
CALF Is the name given to parts of the young LEY SAUCE Calf's head meat cut in slices 
of the cow (in a culinary way) such as the head, and made hot in velout sauce containing 
feet, liver, tail, heart, brains, kidneys and chopped parsley; served with some of the sauce 
sweetbreads; the other parts or meat is called poured over, and garnished with two thin slices 
veal, for recipes of which see "Veal". of boiled bacon or pork. 

CALF'S HEAD The head as purchased should CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE, PIQUANTE 

be left entire with simply the hair cleaned off, SAUCE Slices of calf's head meat made hot 

and, if in the country towns or resorts, the cook in piquante sauce; served with some of the 

has to clean it himself, plunge it into boiling sauce poured over, decorated with scallops of 

water containing common washing soda, let it the tongue, and garnished with pieces of the 

remain for a few minutes, then scrape it per- brain breaded and fried. 

fectly clean with a fish sealer or curry-comb, CALF'S HEAD WITH FINANCIERE RA- 
then singe it like poultry; the head is then split GOUT Slices of calf's head meat arranged in 
in halves, the brains removed, washed, put to a safitoir with carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves 
boil in cold water with salt and vegetables, and cloves, moistened with consomm6 and 
scum removed as it rises, simmered till tender, sherry wine, quickly braised for an hour, meat 
taken up and put into a pan of cold water, and taken up, the braise strained, skimmed and re- 
all bones removed which come away easily; duced to a glaze, then strained over the meat; 
then skin the roof of the mouth, and put the served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, 
head and tongue between two boards with a and garnished with cocks-combs and kernels, 
weight on top, and press till cold. The stock pieces of sweetbreads, mushrooms and small 
which the head was boiled in is good to use for quenelles made hot in Madeira sauce, 
soups and white sauces. The pressed meat will CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE ITALIENNE Calf's 
be called "calf's head meat" for the following head meat in slices, made hot in brown Italian 
recipes: sauce; served with the sauce poured over, and 
CALF'S HEAD BAKED WITH CHIPOLATA garnished with fancy potatoes. 
GARNISH Calf's head meat rut in portions, CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, MUSHROOM 
seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and pow- SAUCE Slices of calf's head meat made hot 
dered thyme, arranged in baking pan with smal 1 j n mushroom sauce; served with a slice of 
onions, mushrooms, small veal sausages, pieces boiled brains on top, the brains decorated with 
of ham and chicken, blanched and peeled chest- slices of green pickles, garnished with button 
nuts, and small balls of carrots and turnips, the mushrooms, and sauce poured around, 
whole covered with a rich brown sauce, baked CALF'S HEAD, TURTLE STYLE Calf's head 
till the garnish is done and the head glazy; me at cut in squares, made hot with stoned 
served with a little of the sauce poured over olives, button mushrooms, small forcemeat 
and surrounded with the garnish. balls, and hard boiled yolks of eggs in equal 
CALF'S HEAD BAKED, ENGLISH STYLE par ts of tomato and madeira sauces; served, 
Calf's head meat cut in slices, arranged in bak- surrounded with the garnish, 
ing pan with a seasoning of salt, pepper, nut- CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE POULETTE Slices 
meg, an onion stuck with cloves, covered with o f calf's head meat made hot in poulette sauce; 
a white sauce made from the stock the head served garnished with balls of potatoes sprinkled 
was boiled in, baked for half an hour; served w ith parsley and button mushrooms. 
with some of the sauce poured over, sprinkled BRAISED CALF'S HEAD WITH VEAL 
with parsley and garnished with quenelles of QUENELLES The meat prepared and 
brain forcemeat and quartered eggs. braised the same as given for "with financiere 
CALF'S HEAD BAKED. GERMAN STYLE garnish"; served dipped in the glaze, and gar- 
Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces, seasoned, nished with small quenelles of veal dipped in 
arranged in pan with mushrooms, pieces of Ravigote sauce alternately with scallops of the 
sweetbreads, and the tongue cut in thin slices, tongue. 

covered with a sauce Bourgignotte and a sprink- CALF'S HEAD FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE 

ling of Parmesan cheese, baked half an hour; Calf's head meat seasoned with salt, pepper 

served with some of the sauce poured over, and nutmeg, dipped in a mixture of four beaten 

decorated with the slices of tongue, sprinkled eggs, yolks of two hard boiled eggs rubbed 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



29 



through a sieve or grater, and half a cup of some small quenelles of brain forcemeat added 

melted butter, then breaded with grated fresh to the soup and served. 

crumbs, or dipped in batter and fried; served CALF'S HEAD SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE 



with tomato sauce poured under. 

CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, SAUCE POIV- 
RADE Prepared and fried same as the pre- 
ceding in crumbs, Poivrade sauce poured under, 
and the ends of dish garnished with the brains 
cut small and mixed in a thick Ravigote sauce. 

FRICASSEE OF CALF'S HEAD WITH 



The stock the head was boiled in strained 
into a good veal stock, m which is boiled a 
jardiniere of vegetables, some tomatoes and 
barley, thickened with roux ; when nearly 
done, the calf's head meat and tongue with a 
little calf's liver blanched, all cut in small 
squares, added to the soup and served. 



VEGETABLES- Calf's head meat cut in slices MOCK TURTLE SOUP. THICK Sliced car- 



with the tongue, made hot in a rich Allemande 
sauce, served with the sauce poured over and 
garnished with balls of carrot, turnip, potatoes 
and green peas that have been boiled separately 
in consomme' with a little sugar. 

BOILED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE VINAI- 
GRETTE The meat and tongue cut in slices, 
made hot in white stock; served alternately 
with vinaigrette sauce poured over and gar- 
nished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

CALF'S HEAD WITH OLIVES, TOMATO 
SAUCE Slices of calf's head meat simmered 
in tomato sauce; served with it, and garnished 
with stoned olives that have been blanched in 
consomme 1 . 

STUFFED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE PAPI- 
LOTTE Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces 
diamond shape, thickly spread with brain force- 
meat (see brains), arranged in a buttered baking 
pan, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs and 
butter, slightly moistened with stock, baked 
slowly till brown; served with a sauce Papilotte 
poured around the base. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE 
Same as "calf's head turtle style," adding 
the tongue cut in scallops, and garnishing the 
ends of the dish with croutons. 

CALF'S HEAD CURRIED WITH RICE- 
Slices of the meat made hot in a good curry 
sauce made either of the stock the head was 
bo,led m or veal, or chicken stock, a border of 
dry boiled nee arranged as a border on the 
dish, with the curried meat m the center. 

OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD- - Four-fifths 



rots, turnips, onions and shallots saut^ed in 
butter, then put in a sauce pan with some 
browned veal and beef bones, a little vinegar, 
sweet basil, thyme, bay leaves, mace and whole 
cloves, fill up with stock, boil up, skimmed, 
then add a calf's head and boil it till tender ; 
take it out when done, put it in cold water and 
remove the bones ; thicken the stock with roux ; 
into the soup tureen put the calf's head cut up 
small, some yolks of hard boiled eggs, slices of 
the white of egg, small quenelles of brain force- 
meat, salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped pars- 
ley and sherry wine, then strain the thickened 
stock into it and serve. 

CLEAR MOCK TURTLE A consomme 1 made 
of veal and chicken stock in which has been 
boiled a calf's head and feet, the consomme 1 
flavored with essence of anchovies, sweet basil, 
mushroom catsup, a little curry powder and 
lemon peel ; serve with small quenelles of brain 
forcemeat, the calf's head cut in dice, and finish 
with a little brandy. 

CALF'S EARS BOILED, SAUCE VILLEROI 
The ears cut off close to the head before the 
head is s P Ht for boiling, thoroughly washed, 
and boiled in white stock with vegetables and 
s P ices - takea U P '- served wilh Vatord sauce 



p TOMATO SAUCE - 

Thg earg ^.^ ag a theQ breaded and 

^ ^ ag much a3 

sible served J^ tomatQ s ^ e d arQund 

and ished with slices o broiled tomatoes 
th&t faave ^ inkled with cheese while 
broiling. 



of beaten eggs, one-fifth of cold consomme, and CALF'S EARS STUFFED, SAUCE BORDE- 



the brains of the head cleaned, beaten to a 
pulp, little chopped parsley, salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, all mixed together ; small squares of 
catf's head meat made hot in madeira sauce ; 
the omelet mixture fried in form, enclosing 
some of the meat in sauce, turned on to the 



LAISE The ears boiled not quite done, taken 
up> stuffed with a veal stuffing, smoothing the 
f ace from the opening to the tip, arranged in a 
sautoir, moistened with consommee" and sim- 
mered till done ; served with Bordelaise sauce 
poured over and around. 



dish, slit made in the top of the omelet, more RAGOUT OF CALF'S EARS IN CROUSTADES 



meat put in ; served with some of the meat and 
sauce poured around. 

CALF'S HEAD SOUP WITH QUENELLES 
The stock the head was boiled in and an equal 
quantity of chicken stock mixed, rice boiled in 
it till soft, then all rubbed through a pure"e sieve, 



Calf's ears boiled till tender, cut in small 
squares, saute'ed in butter with mushrooms, 
stoned olives, pieces of brains and tongue, but 
the ears predominating ; when colored, surplus 
butter drained off, moistened with madeira 
sauce, filled into paste croustades and served. 



the pure"e thus obtained mixed with an equal CALF'S EARS, TURTLE STYLE The ears 
quantity of supreme sauce and brought to the bolied and left whole, then made hot with whole- 
boil, calf's head meat in small squares, and stoned olives, button mushrooms, small force- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



meat balls of the brains, and hard-boiled yolks 
of eggs in equal parts of tomato and madeira 
sauces ; served, the yolk of egg in the opening 
of the ear, and surrounded with the garnish. 

CALF'S EARS WITH TRUFFLES, SAUCE 
TRIANON The ears boiled and left whole, 
the part just below the tip studded with pieces 
of diamond-shaped truffle and the opening of 
the ear with a whole glazed truffle; arranged 
in a sautoir with a very little consomme\ the 
ears brushed over with glaze, made hot, and 
served with a Trianon sauce poured around. 

CALF'S BRAINS For the several receipes of 
which see heading of "brains." 

CALF'S FEET The hoof is split with a knife, 
then treated the same as calf's head; when 
done, the bones removed, and the meat pressed 
between boards. 

FRICASSEE OF CALF'S FEET -The cold 
meat cut in neat shaped pieces, made hot in 
Pascaline sauce ; served garnished with button 
mushroons and small Victoria potatoes. 

CALF'S FEET BOILED, POIVRADE SAUCE 
Neatly trimmed pieces of the cjld meat made 
hot in white stock ; served with Poivrade sauce 
poured over and garnished with fancy croutons. 

FRIED CALF'S FEET IN BATTER, ITALIAN 
SAUCE Cold cooked feet, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and lemon juice, dipped in plain batter. 
fried; served with brown Italian sauce poured 

ind garnished whh SmaU P tat 



cTTTAvrwn CAiir-TT T?T?MnTT 
* c, STEAMED SAUCE REMOU- 

LADE-Shces of the cold meat steamed; 
served with Remoulade sauce poured over and 
garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

CALF'S FEET WITH MUSHROOMS, SAUCE 
POULETTE- Squares of cold meat made hot 
in Poulette sauce ; served with the sauce, and 
garnished with button mushrooms that have 
been lightly fried in butter. 

CROUSTADES OF CALF'S FEET-Small 
squares of the cold meat made hot in a sauce 
prepared from the stock they were boiled in. 
brought to a simmer, then is added some finely 
minced yolks of eggs, a little dry mustard, salt. 
red pepper, white wine and lemon juice, quickly 
reduced, filled into paste croustades and served. 

CALF'S FEET CREPINETTES, SAUCE 
PROVENCALE The cold meat of the feet 
cut up small, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon 
juice and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity 
of veal or pork sausage meat, made into shapes 
of small Hamburg steaks, broiled ; served with 
Provencale sauce poured around. 

CALF'S FEET JELLY Raw cleaned calf's 
feet chopped up, put to boil in cold water with 
a stick of cinnamon and the rind of a lemon, 
boiled till soft, and the liquor well reduced, 
strain, allowed to get cold, then all fat and 
skimmings removed, the liquor which should 
nave become like jelly then put back into a 
bright kettle with some beaten whites of eggs, 



sugar to taste, little white wine and lemon 
juice, brought slowly to the boil without stir- 
ring, then allowed to simmer till the coagula- 
tion turns a grey color, about twenty minutes, 
then strained and restrained through a jelly 
bag; when nearly cool, filled into glasses or 
molds, and served when set and cold. 

CALF'S HEART STUFFED, MADEIRA 
SAUCE The hearts soaked and the veins 
cut away, put in boiling water and simmered 
for ten minutes, then refreshed in cold water, 
taken up and wiped dry, the cavity made and 
filled with a poultry stuffing, crust of bread tied 
over the opening to keep the stuffing in, roasted 
and basted with gravy till done ; served split in 
halves, dressing side up, with Madeira sauce 
poured around and garnished with croutons. 

CALF'S HEART STUFFED AND BRAISED 
-Prepare, and stuffed as above, but the opening 
covered and tied with a slice of salt pork ; 
arranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, 
onions, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, 
moistened with stock, braised and basted till 
tender, taken up, the braise strained, skimmed 
and added to a Madeira sauce, reduced to a half 
g i aze . t ^ e heart served cut in halves with some 
of the glaze pou red round the edges, and gar- 
nished with Parisienne potatoes. 

CALF>S HEART LARDED, SAUCE ANDA- 
L OUSE-The top of the heart larded with 
strips of seasoned larding pork, then prepared 
and stuffed - arranged in a sautoir and braised 
as di recei . servedi the whole 

? ^ Andalusian sauce 

' d ? J ^ ^ ^ endg ^ & 

, , . 

maced ' ne of vegetables. 

<*LFS KIDNEYS LARDED MADEIRA 
SAUCE-The kidneys blanched for a few mm- 
utes ' then *hened in cold water and after- 
wards wi P ed drv - larded th seas ned st "P 
of P ork ' ^ranged in a sautoir with a dash of 
tarra 8 on vinegar, powdered mixed herbs.melted 
butter and consomme, quickly braised and 
g laz u ed : f rved on a bed of mashed P tatoes 
Wlth Madeira sauce P oured around - 

BROCHETTE OF CALF'S KIDNEYS -See 
receipe under head of " Brochette." 

CALF'S KIDNEYS BROILED, PARSLEY 
BUTTER The kidneys blanched and cooled, 
then cut in two lengthwise, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in 
fresh bread crumbs, broiled till done ; served 
on toast with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured 
over them, and garnished with cress and lemon. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS SAUTES WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS The kidneys lightly blanched and 
refreshed, cut in small slices, saut^ed with 
minced onion and sliced button mushrooms; 
when done, sprinkled with parsley, salt, pepper 
and a dash of tarragon vinegar, moistened with 
a little Colbert sauce and served on 
garnished with fancy croutons. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3 

PATTIES OF CALF'S KIDNEYS Puff paste fat in a sautoir, liver cut small and put with the 

patty shells filled with the preceding, saute, onions and tossed over a quick fire till set, su- 

but having the kidneys cut in very small dice. perfluous fat then poured off, flour stirred in, 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S KIDNEYS Kidneys moistened with stock, seasoned with salt and 

cut about the same size as button mushrooms, pepper, simmered till tender ; served garnished 

sauteed in butter with mushrooms and minced with a border of Victoria potatoes, 

shallots with a clove of garlic ; when browned, BRAISED CALF'S LIVER WITH VEGE- 

put into a Bordelaise sauce and simmered for TABLES The liver trimmed from veins, 

a few minutes ; served, a border of potato larded with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in 

croquette mixture forced through a fancy tube, a sautoir with some bacon trimmings, carrot, 

sprinkled with chopped parsley, and the ragout onion, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, 

in the center. moistened with consomme 1 and sherry wine, 

CALF'S KIDNEYS CROQUETTES WITH covered with a sheet of buttered paper, lid put 

PEAS Cold braised kidneys (see Calf's Kid- on, braised till tender, taken up, sauce added 

neys Larded, Madeira Sauce), minced and to the braise, boiled up, strained and skimmed ; 

seasoned, made hot in a thick Madeira sauce, the liver served in slices and garnished with 

turned into a pan to cool, smoothed with a knife, balls of carrot, turnip and small glazed onions, 

covered with a buttered paper ; when cold, cut CALF'S LIVER FRIED WITH FINE HERBS 

in pieces, formed into croquettes of the desired Slices of the liver seasoned with salt and 

shape, breaded, fried, and served with green pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon fat with 

peas at the ends of the dish and Madeira sauce minced chives and shallots, taken up, grease 

poured around, the croquettes decorated with a poured off, fines-herbes sauce added to the 

frill. pan, boiled up, served with the liver. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS FRIED, SAUCE COLBERT CALF'S LIVER BROILED, ITALIAN SAUCE 

The kidneys split lengthwise and seasoned Slices of liver seasoned with salt and pepper, 

with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then fried rolled in flour, dipped in melted butter, broiled 

in butter ; served on toast with Colbert sauce till done ; served with brown Italian sauce 

poured over ; garnished with croutons. poured around and garnished with chip potatoes. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS IN CROUSTADES Broiled SCALLOPS OF CALF'S LIVER WITH 
kidneys and cold boiled ham both cut into small MUSHROOMS Small pieces of liver seasoned 
dice; minced mushrooms fried in butter, then and fried in bacon fat, taken up and put into a 
drained and added to the meats with a little brown Italian sauce, simmered for a few min- 
chopped parsley, all mixed, moistened with utes, served with a border of fried button mush- 
Bechamel sauce, made hot, filled into croustades rooms, 
and served. CALF'S LIVER AND BACON WITH SPINACH 

CALF'S KIDNEY OMELET The mixture The liver larded and braised, the bacon boiled 

given for "Patties of Calf's Kidneys," the tender, the spinach boiled in the bacon water, 

omelet made of beaten eggs, chopped chives, drained, pressed, chopped fine and seasoned 

parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, enclosing with salt and pepper ; served, the spinach as a 

some of the kidneys, and served with more of bed, the liver and bacon in slices alternately on 

the meat in sauce poured around. top, with some of the gravy from the braising 

CALF'S LIVER WITH CRISPED ONIONS poured around. 

The liver trimmed from veins, larded through BROCHETTE OF CALF'S LIVER WITH 

with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in a BACON See recipe under heading of 

sautoir with bacon trimmings, little consomme "Brochette." 

and sherry wine, cover put on, and roasted till CALF'S LIVER WITH SMOTHERED 

done and glazy, liver taken up, brown sauce ONIONS The liver in slices, seasoned, floured 

added to the residue of the sautoir, boiled, an( j fried, the onions sliced and steamed for a 

skimmed and strained, liver served in slices f ew minutes, then put in a sautoir with bacon 

with the gravy and garnished with rings of f a t an d smothered a light brown over a quick 

oniorrs that have been dipped in milk, rolled in fj re ; the liver served garnished with the onions, 

flour and fried in hot fat. LIVER CHEESE, ITALIAN STYLE Calf's 

CALF'S LIVER SAUTE WITH BACON liver four-fifths, salt pork one-fifth, finely 

Slices of liver and bacon, the bacon fried first, minced with a few shallots, seasoned with salt 

then the liver seasoned and rolled in flour, fried an d pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and 

in bacon fat; when done, flour added to the sherry wine; bread pans lined with thin slices 

pan, stirred, and moistened with stock, boiled o f bacon, the liver mince filled in, with slices 

up, strained, skimmed, juice of lemon added ; o f bacon and bay leaves on top, covered with 

the liver served with some of the gravy and buttered paper and slowly baked till done (about 

garnished with the bacon. three hours); served either cold in slices, or be- 

CALf'S LIVER STEWED WITH ONIONS tween bread as sandwiches, or in slices hot, 

Green spring onions chopped and fried in bacon with Italian sauce poured over. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



LIVER FORCEMEAT BALLS Made the same 
as "liver cheese" above, but adding some bread 
crumbs, raw yolks of eggs and chopped parsley; 
when thoroughly mixed, made into ball.: and 
poached till done in white stock; served with a 
Hollandaise sauce. The Germans call this dish 
"LIVER KLOSSE." 

TIMBALE OF CALF'S LIVER, PIQUANT 
SAUCE The "liver cheese" above filled into 
timbale molds, and steamed or baked till done; 
served with piquant sauce poured over. 

CALF'S LIVER QUENELLES IN CRUMBS 
The "forcemeat" mixture above, shaped like 
eggs between two spoons, poached, taken up, 
and rolled in fried bread crumbs; served gar- 
nished with parsley and lemon, and Allemande 
sauce served separately. 

POTTED CALF'S LIVER WITH ASPIC 
JELLY Slices of liver fried in bacon fat with 
minced onions and mushrooms, taken up and 
pounded to a paste with wine, powdered mixed 
herbs, salt, pepper and nutmeg, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve with its equal weight of fat 
bacon; into this puree is then mixed a minced 
clove of garlic, some ham and bacon fat cut in 
small dice; when thoroughly incorporatedi 
filled into bread pans, covered with thick but- 
tered paper, the filled pans put into roasting 
pans containing cold water half way up, put in 
oven and slowly baked till done (about two 
hours), taken out, allowed to partly cool, then 
turned out, trimmed; served cold in slices, 
decorated with aspic jelly. 

CALF'S TONGUE BRAISED, TOMATO 
SAUCE The tongues blanched and freshened, 
then larded with strips of seasoned larding pork, 
arranged in sautoir with carrot, onion, parsley, 
bay leaves and whole cloves, moistened with 
stock, braised and glazed; served in slices cut 
lengthwise, with tomato sauce. 

CALF'S TONGUE SAUTE, VINAIGRETTE 
The tongues blanched, freshened and skinned, 
then cut lengthwise in slices, saute'ed in butter 
with minced shallots; served with sauce vinai- 
grette. 

CALF'S TONGUE. SAUCE TARTARE The 
braised tongues above, allowed to become cold; 
served in slices with tartare sauce, garnished 
with strips of pickles. 

CALF'S TONGUE FRIED, SAUCE ROBERT 
The tongue boiled with vegetables, herbs and 
spices, skinned, cut lengthwise in slices, bread- 
ed, fried; served with a Robert sauce poured 
under. 

CALF'S TONGUE WITH POTATOES. MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE The tongues boiled and skin- 
ned as in the preceding recipe, then cut in long 
slices, dipped in glaze, arranged on a bed of 
mashed potatoes, with mushroom sauce poured 
around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS BROILED, SAUCE 
COLBERT The sweetbreads soaked in cold 
salted water for a few hours, then boiled with 



a few whole spices, bay leaves, vegetables and 
a dash of vinegar till tender, taken up, put into 
cold water and all rough fat and skin removed, 
then pressed between boards till cold (for the 
following recipes the above directions will be 
called "prepared") when cold split in slices, 
dipped in melted butter, then in seasoned bread 
crumbs, broiled; served with Colbert sauce 
poured around. They may also be served with 
maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with fancy 
potatoes. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS SAUTES WITH 
PEAS Prepared sweetbreads split and sauteed 
in butter; served on a bed of mashed potatoes, 
with green peas in sauce poured around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CREAM, ON 
TOAST Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices 
crosswise, made hot in reduced cream; served 
on toast, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, 
with some of the cream poured around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE 
PERIGUEUX Prepared sweetbreads split, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped 
in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden 
color; served with Perigueux sauce, and gar- 
nished with fancy croutons. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN 
BUTTER Prepared sweetbreads split, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and powdered herbs 
rolled in flour, fried in butter; served with 
brown butter, made by melting butter to the 
frothing point, then adding lemon juice and 
chopped parsley; poured over the sweetbreads 
on hot dish. 

CALF'S SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES 
WITH PEAS Prepared sweetbreads cut into 
small dice, mixed with half the amount of grated 
boiled ham, a few minced saute'ed shall jts and 
mushrooms, thoroughly heated in a thick V6- 
loute 1 sauce, seasoned with lemon juice and 
nutmeg, poured into a buttered shallow pan, 
smoothed with a knife, covered with buttered 
paper; when cold, cut into pieces of an equal 
size, shaped, breaded, fried, served with green 
peas in white sauce or half glaze as a border, 
with frills in the croquettes. 

RISSOLES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
WITH VEGETABLES The croquette mix- 
ture above, when cold, cut out and formed into 
balls, size of small egg; two sheets ot pufl paste 
rolled out, the balls put in sections all over one, 
covered with the other, edges pressed down, 
then stamped out with a fancy cutter, arranged 
on a baking sheet, washed over, baked; served 
garnished with a macedoine ot vegetables in 
brown sauce. 

RISSOLETTES are the same as rissoles, but 
smaller. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN SHELL The 
croquette mixture above, filled into buttered 
scallop shells, sprinkled with grated thread 
crumbs and melted butter, browned in tne oven 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



3! 



and served, (called, SWEETBREADS EN 
COQU1LLE). 

SCALLOPED CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
The same as the preceding, with the addition 
of grated Parmesan cheese mixed with the bread 
crumbs; served in the shell, (called, SWEET- 
BREADS EN COQUILLE AU GRATIN). 

PATTIES OF SCRAMBLED CALF'S SWEET- 
BREADS Prepared sweetbreads cut into small 
dice, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice 
and chopped parsley, mixed into beaten eggs 
with a little cream, scrambled in butter but 
kept soft, (best when scrambled to order) filled 
into hot patty shells and served with a little 
Ve'loute sauce poured around. 

CUTLETS OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
WITH VEGETABLES The croquette mix- 
ture (see Calf's Sweetbread Croquettes with 
Peas) when cold, cat out and shaped like small 
lamb chops, with a piece of macaroni to repre- 
sent the bone, breaded and fried; served with 
a border of Julienne vegetables mixed into Hol- 
landaise sauce, (called, SWEETBREAD CUT- 
LETS a la NIVERNAISE). 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH FINAN- 
CIERE RAGOUT Prepared sweetbreads 
split and seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- 
meg, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter, taken 
up, kept hot in glaze, served on fancy croutons 
surrounded with a garnish of cock's combs and 
kernels, button mushrooms, small quenelles and 
truffles, all made hot in a rich Madeira sauce, 
(called SWEETBREAD SAUTE a la FINAN- 
CIERS). 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CASES Pre- 
pared sweetbreads cut in small dice, seasoned 
with salt and red pepper, made hot in Veloute 
sauce, filled into paper cases, sprinkled with 
fresh bread crumbs and melted butter, arranged 
on a baking sheet and very quickly browned in 
the oven or with a salamander and served. 

VOL-AU-VENT OF SWEETBREADS AND 
MUSHROOMS The preceding with the addi- 
tion of an equal quantity of cut and sauteed 
mushrooms, filled into a good sized puff paste 
patty shell with a cover placed on and served. 

TIMBALE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised, al- 
lowed to become cold, then cut in thin slices. 
A rich forcemeat of cooked chicken and mush- 
rooms well seasoned, the sweetbreads and force- 
meat filled into timbale molds in alternate 
layers; when full, moistened with the reduced 
and strained braise, the opening covered with 
the same short paste as the molds are lined 
with, baked, turned out; served with a Madeira 
sauce containing a little chopped parsley and 
some mushroom tops, poured over and around. 

BOUCHEES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
For recipe see heading of "Bouchees". 

BROCHETTE OR ATTEREAUX OF CALF'S 
SWEETBREADS For recipe see "Brochette" 

BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS, GAR- 



NISHED Prepared sweetbreads larded with 
seasoned strips of bacon, then arranged in a 
sautoir on a bed of thinly sliced vegetables, 
with bay leaves and one or two cloves, covered 
with thin slices of bacon, moistened with stock, 
covered with buttered paper, lid put on and 
braised quickly for half an hour with frequent 
basting; when done, the lid, paper and bacon 
removed, then put back into the oven to dry 
the glaze on top of the sweetbreads, taken up, 
the braise strained and skimmed, then poured 
to a mixture of diced red tongue, truffles, mush- 
rooms and chicken breast, little Madeira wine 
and sauce then added; the sweetbreads served 
on toast surrounded with the garnish, (called, 
SWEETBREADS BRAISED a la MONT- 
GLAS). 

GLAZED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
FRENCH BEANS Prepared sweetbreads 
larded and braised as in the preceding, the 
braise strained, skimmed and mixed with green 
French beans (Haricot Verts), the sweetbreads 
served surrounded with the beans. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH DEMI- 
GLACE Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised as (see Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, 
Garnished), when done the braise strained over 
them, reduced with a little Madeira sauce and 
wine; served on toast rolled in glaze, and gar- 
nished. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED AND 
BRAISED, MUSHROOM SAUCE- Same as 
"Braised Calf's Sweetbreads Garnished", the 
braise strained into a rich mushroom sauce, the 
sweetbreads served surrounded with the mush- 
rooms in sauce. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED, SAUCE 
TOULOUSE Prepared sweetbreads larded 
and braised, served with asparagus points at 
one end, green peas at the other end of the 
dish, with Toulouse sauce at the sides. 

BLANQUETTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
Slices of prepared sweetbreads made hot in a 
light colored Allemande sauce, served with it 
and decorated on the top with slices of truffles. 

CASSEROLE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
Slices of prepared sweetbreads and mushrooms 
made hot in Veloute" sauce, the serving dish con- 
taining a high border of potato croquette mix- 
ture glazed and browned, the sweetbreads filled 
into the centre, sprinkled with minced truffle 
peelings and served. 

FRICANDEAU OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
CHICORY Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, 
Garnished," when done the braise strained, 
skimmed, then poured over the sweetbreads and 
reduced to a glaze ; served on a bed of pure"e of 
chicory or spinach, with a rich Madeira sauce 
poured around. 

CROUSTADE OF CURRIED CALF'S SWEET- 
BREADS Prepared sweetbreads split and 
then sliced, made hot in a good curry sauce 



34 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



prepared from the stock they were boiled in, bread crumbs, beaten eggs and again bread 
filled into paste croustade cases, served two crumbs, fried; served with Villeroi sauce poured 
cases full alternately with small turned-out around, and the ends of dish garnished with 
molds of dry boiled rice. green peas that have been sauteed in butter 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, MUSH- FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS AND 
ROOM SAUCE Prepared sweetbreads split, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, rolled 
in flour, dipped into beaten eggs, fried in hot 



MUSHROOMS Prepared sweetbreads split 
and simmered in sauce Albert, served with it, 
and garnished with button mushrooms that 
have been lightly fried in butter and sprinkled 
with chopped parsley. 



fat, served surrounded with button mushrooms 
in a Maderia sauce. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS ON BRAISED SWEETBREADS, SAUCE BEARN- 
TO AST Prepared sweetbreads split and then AISE Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
cut in slices, mixed with half the amount of 
sliced mushrooms, made hot in a Maderia 



sauce, served piled on toast with the sauce 
around, garnished with fancy crofltons whose 



braised (as in Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- 
nished); served decorated at the ends and sides 
with slices of tuffles, and with Bearnaise sauce 
poured around. 



ends are dipped in sauce, then in chopped pars- SAUTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 



ley. 

SWEETBREADS ANDTRUFFLES IN SHELL 
Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices, mixed 
with slices of truffles and mushrooms, made 
hot in a thick Allemande sauce, filled into 
scallop shells, sprinkled with bread crumbs and 
melted butter, browned in the oven or with a 
salamander, and served. 

STEWED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 



BAKED TOMATOES Prepared sweetbreads 
split, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter with 
minced shallots, strips of green peppers and a 
crushed clove of garlic ; when browned, equal 
parts of tomato and Napolitaine sauces added, 
simmered ten minutes, taken up, sauce strained 
over them. Served with some of the sauce and 
garnished with small stuffed and baked toma- 
toes. 



KIDNEY BEANS Prepared sweetbreads SWEETBREADS BREADED, SAUCE TAR- 



split, and made hot in Veloute 1 sauce containing 
minced shallots, whole mace, pieces of bacon 
and sweet herbs for half an hour, taken up, a 
liaison of egg yolks and cream then beaten into 
the sauce and strained over the sweetbreads ; 



TARE Prepared sweetbreads split and spread 
on both sides with tartar sauce, rolled in 
crumbs, then breaded and fried ; served with 
Tartar sauce served separately, and garnished 
with lemon and parsley. 



served garnished with sauteed kidney beans EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS, SAUCE 

BECHAMEL Prepared sweetbreads split and 
trimmed to a cutlet shape, half of them dipped 
in cooling Bechamel sauce and when cold rolled 
in bread crumbs, then breaded and fried, the 
other half made hot in rich white stock, then 
taken up and dipped in glaze, then coated with 
Bechamel sauce ; served, one of each, sur- 
rounded with scallops of red tongue and sliced 
mushrooms in Bechamel sauce. 
SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
TOULOUSE RAGOUT Prepared sweet- 
breads cut in slices, then cut circular with large 
sized column cutter, dipped in cooling Allem- 
ande sauce, then in bread crumbs, afterwards 
breaded and fried a golden color in butter; 
served overlapping each other round the dish, 
the centre filled with cocks combs and kernels, 
truffles cut in small squares, the trimmings of 
the sweetbreads, and button mushrooms all 
made hot in Allemande sauce. 



(flageolets) at ends, sauce at the sides. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH CREAMED 
MUSHROOMS Prepared sweetbreads cut in 
slices and sauteed in butter piled on toast; 
served surrounded with sliced mushrooms 
boiled down in reduced cream. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
MORELS Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices 
and sauteed in butter, then mixed into a rich 
Madeira sauce ; served on toast, surrounded 
with sliced morels that have been fried in their 
own oil. 

BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
SORREL Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- 
nished"; served on a bed of puree of sorrel, 
with some of the strained and skimmed glaze 
poured over and around. 

KROMESKIES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 



The croquette mixture (see Calf's Sweet- SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH 



bread Croquettes with Peas) when cold, cut out 
and shaped like long corks, then rolled into a 
thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned with a 
toothpick, dipped into a plain batter and fried, 
toothpick then removed ; served with a rich 
ve"lout sauce poured around. 
CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE 

VILLEROI Prepared sweetbreads split and LARDED 
coated with cold Villeroi sauce, then rolled in 



POTATO CROQUETTES The sweetbreads 
cut and fried as in the preceding recipe, served 
overlapping each other around the dish, the 
centre filled with small potato cone-shaped 
croquettes, the points being dipped in white 
sauce, then in chopped parsley, with a sauce 
Poulette around their base. 



SWEETBREADS WITH TOU- 
LOUSE RAGOUT Prepared sweetbreads 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 35 

larded through from top to bottom with alter- livers sauteed with an onion till tender, then 

nate strips of red tongue and truffles, so that pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy es- 

they resemble a studding ; braised as in sence, salt, red pepper and butter, piled in 

"Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Garnished"; pyramid form on fried shapes of bread, smoothed 

served surrounded with a Toulouse ragout as with a knife and made hot in the oven ; served 

given in ' ' Scallops of Sweetbreads with Tou- decorated with slices of pimen toes and rings of 

louse Ragout." red chillies. 

SWEETBREAD SALAD Slices of prepared CANAPES OF SHRIMPS Fancy shaped slices 

sweetbread dipped in flour and fried iu butter, of toast spread with shrimp paste and decorated 

allowed to become cold, shredded lettuce in with coiled shrimps. 

centre of the dish with cream salad dressing, CANAPES OF POTTED TONGUE Circles 

sweetbreads masked with mayonnaise arranged of brown bread toast spread with potted tongue 

around the lettuce, the lettuce decorated with and decorated in lattice form with strips of red 

alternate slices of radishes and stamped pieces cooked tongue, 

of pickled beet. INDIAN CANAPES Circles of bread fried in 

SWEETBREAD SOUP Minced ham and butter, spread first with potted ham, then with 

onions with prepared sweetbreads and a bunch chutney, strewed with Parmesan cheese, 

of sweet herbs slowly sauteed in butter for an browned in the oven and served. 

hour, then flour added to form a paste, this CANAPES OF POTTED HAM Strips of toast 

then rubbed through a fine sieve, the puree spread with potted ham, then sprinkled with 

then worked into a good veal or chicken stock, grated ham, decorated with thin slices of green 

boiled up and skimmed, seasoned with salt, gherkins. 

pepper, and a little sugar ; served with small SARDINE CANAPES Triangle-shaped pieces 

croutons browned in the oven (called POTAGE of toast spread with a mixture of equal parts of 

alaCOMTESSE). boiled egg yolks and sardines pounded to a 

CAMEMBERT Name of an imported cheese, paste and seasoned with red pepper and lemon 

put up in round flat boxes like brie. Is in its juice, decorated with a coiled anchovy out of 

prime when just soft and creamy with an in- oil in the centre. 

clination to run; served in small quantities CANAPES OF CAVIAR Circles of toast, the 

with toasted crackers. edges spread with anchovy butter, with an 

CANAPES A French term literally meaning a onion ring as its base, the ring filled with Rus- 

" couch," used in a culinary sense as a bed or sian caviar. 

something to rest savory foods on, usually in OLIVE CANAPES Circles of buttered toast 

the form of bread or toast covered with minces, with a coiled anchovy on it, and a stuffed olive 

pastes, etc., then decorated. in the centre of the coil. Also circles of toast 

ANCHOVY CANAPES Hard boiled eggs and fried in butter, then spread with anchovy paste, 

anchovies finely minced and spread on buttered minced olives and capers on top. 

toast. Also, very shallow gem pans lined with CANAPE CHASSEUR Triangle shaped pieces 

pie paste and baked, then filled when cold with of toast spread with a game forcemeat, the 

anchovies pounded to a paste with Gruyere edges decorated with another forcemeat of game 

cheese, inverted on a circle of buttered toast but of different color. 

and garnished with minced gherkins. Also, a CANAPES OF OYSTERS Strips of toast 

mixture of chopped anchovies, grated ham, spread with blanched and minced oysters mixed 

truffles and gherkins mixed and moistened with i to a Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with parsley 

salad oil and caper vinegar, then filled into dust. Clams may be treated the same way and 

very small patty cases ; served garnished with named accordingly, 

pieces of toast and aspic jelly. SAVORY CANAPES Strips of toast spread 

CANAPES BERNE, OR SWISS CANAPES with a mixture of grated ham, cheese, cream 

Triangle-shaped pieces of toast spread with sauce and scrambled eggs, the edges decorated 

anchovy butter, decorated with minced whites with lobster coral. 

of eggs down one side, yolks on the other, and CANAPE MADISON Slices of toast on which 

the third with minced green gherkins, and a is laid a tbia slice of lean hara s P read with 

stuffed olive in the centre. French mustard, this again is spread with a 

CANAPES OF CRAB Circles of toast spread cold white sauce containing minced cooked 

with deviled crab meat, sprinkled with Parme- onions, garlic, and cheese; Parmesan cheese is 

san cheese and browned in the oven (called tQ en dredged on top, sprinkled with fine bread 

CANAPE LORENZO). crumbs, baked and served. 

CANAPES OF SMOKED SALMON Strips of CHICKEN CANAPES Circles of toast spread 

toast spread with anchovy butter, a thin circle with chicken forcemeat in which is worked 

of smoked salmon on top, the edges decorated cream and butter, dredged with Parmesan 

with hard boiled eggs minced and mixed with cheese and baked, then decorated in the centre 

chopped parsley. with a stamped piece of white of egg. 

CANAPES OF CHICKEN LIVERS Chicken CREOLE CANAPES Grated lean ham, onion, 



56 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

garlic and chopped parsley with pieces of peeled vegetables, then colored with a coal tar product 

tomatoes and minced green peppers, seasoned and loaded with salicylic acid to prevent fermen- 

with salt and pepper, stewed down dry, then tation. Fruit butters are nothing but parings 

spread on strips of buttered toast, dredged and scrapings of fruit, to which glucose, starch 

with Parmesan cheese and baked. and colorings have been added, with salicylic 

SCOTCH CANAPES Breast of chicken, red acid as a preservative. Jellies are made from 

tongue and lean ham all cut into very small glucose, flavored with essential oils and colored, 

dice, seasoned with nutmeg and a little curry to which salicylic acid is added. Some fruit 

powder, then worked into a thick Veloute sauce, jellies marked as pure, have never seen a trace 

spread on slices of toast, dredged with Parme- of fruit. What is true of jellies is true of pre- 

san cheese and baked, (also called, CANAPE serves. Put together refuse material, the cheap- 

ABERDEEN). est sort of glucose, some coloring and salicylic 

CANAPE WINDSOR Strips of toast spread acid, and you have the composition of some of 

with a forcemeat of any kind of white fleshed the cheaper forms of preserves that are to be 

fish, seasoned with mustard and Worcester- found on the shelves of some of our grocery 

shire sauce, dredged with Parmesan cheese and stores. Of these coarser forms of adulterations 

baked. it will be unnecessary to say even a word; they 

CANAPE CABILLAUD Triangle shaped pieces are universally recognized as being unfit for use 

of toast spread with a forcemeat made of boiled and every honest dealer is of the opinion that tlie 

salt codfish, mixed with minced green peppers sooner they are driven out of the market the 

and spring onions seasoned with tarragon vine- better it will be for trade." 

gar, decorated with capers. CANTELOUPES Are of different kinds in our 

MADRAS CANAPES Circles of toast spread markets; although the "Nutmeg" is pronounced 

with a mixture of finely minced white fleshed the best, many have a distinct fancy for the 

fish, Madras chutney and sweet pickles, moist- "Osage" with its thick yellow fruit. In select- 

ened with Hollandaise sauce, dredged with ing the nutmegs, those which have a thick 

Parmesan cheese and baked, (also called, broad cording on the rind, and with the section 

CANAPE WINCHESTER). marks inclined to a yellow color, will be found 

CHEESE CANAPES Strips of bread hollowed the best fruit. To be served they are first kept 

out half their thickness, then toasted, the inner on ice, then scrubbed or washed, split in halves 

part sprayed with Worcestershire sauce, the lengthwise, pith and seeds removed, and the 

cavity then fitted with a slice of Swiss cheese, cavity filled with small broken ice; eaten by 

baked, and served very hot. some with powdered sugar, by others with salt 

CANNELONS Name given to hollow lengths of and pepper. 

noodle or puff paste made by twining strips of CAPERCAILZIE A game bird of the grouse 

the paste around a piece of pipe or tubing, species, the male bird differing greatly from 

then either baked or fried, the pipe removed, the hen in that it attains to twice the size, has 

the cannelons may then be filled with force- dark brown wings, and a dark greeny gold neck, 

meats, croquette mixtures, creams, preserves, while the hen in appearance and plumage is 

etc. very like a prairie hen. This bird must always 

CANARD French name for wild duck. Cane- be hung for a week or so to become tender; it 

ton for domestic duck or duckling. may then be cooked in all the ways of prairie 

CANNED GOODS The following quotation chickens. 

clipped from The Sanitarian is given for the CAPERS Are a berry of a plant cultivated in 

reader to form his own views: Europe and not in America; are spoken of in 

"Under one heading we may consider several the bible as "hyssop". They are imported 

groups of foodstuffs, which, while different in here in five sizes: "Nonpariels", "Capotes", 

composition, are alike in the form of adulteration "Capuchins", "Seconds" and "Thirds", in 

which is resorted to. These groups include the bottles and in bulk, the latter way being the 

varieties of canned vegetables, fruit butters, jel- cheapest for hotel use. Capers, however, are 

lies, preserves and catsups. The forms of adul- often mixed by unscrupulous dealers with 

terations. common to all of these, consist in the "nasturtium" berries which resemble them in 

use of coloring matter, of imperfect vegetables or size and appearance. The caper is only used 

fruits, of other vegetables and fruits than those * or making sauces, or in garnishing, 

called for of preservatives. In the case of can- CAPONS Are young fowls that have been steri- 

ned vegetables, there is an accidental adultera- Hzed, secluded and fattened, which improves 

tion from the ingredients of the can, such as lead the delicacy and flavor of their flesh, and also 

and tin, and which may, as a rule, be attributed allows them to grow to a much larger size. 

to a lack of care in canning. In all the groups They are best in the fall of the year. The city 

mentioned, the adulteration practised is one of of Philadelphia seems to have got the name of 

the most flagrant and extensive kind. Catsups producing the best, and when placed on the 

are made of skins and cores instead of the pure bill of fare, no matter what part of the country, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



37 



are generally designated, "Philadelphia Ca- gueux sauce; served with the sauce poured 

pon". around, and garnished with small quenelles o-* 

ROAST CAPON STUFFED WITH RICE chicken dipped into parsley sauce. 

Draw, singe and wash the birds, wiped dry, BOILED CAPON, MUSHROOM SAUCE 

the inside filled with rice that has been boiled 

in stock; seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg 

and a few herbs; when filled, trussed, breast 

covered with bacon and tied with string, 

roasted and basted; when nearly done, the 

bacon removed, the breast browned; served 

garnished with watercress, and some Veloute" 

sauce. 
ROAST CAPONS WITH NOODLES The 

birds drawn, singed, washed and trussed, the 

breast filled with a savory stuffing, bacon tied 

over the breast, then roasted; served with some 

boiled noodles that are mixed into Allemande 

sauce, with a little Parmesan cheese at one 

end, and Allemande sauce at the other. 
BRAISED CAPON WITH CHIPOLATA GAR- 

NISH Capons drawn, singed, washed, wiped. BOILED CAPON WITH TONGUE AND 

larded on the breast, trussed, put in sauce pan CAULIFLOWER The birds prepared and 

boiled as in Boiled Capon, Mushroom Sauce; 
served with a slice of braised smoked tongue, 
and garnished with flowerets of cauliflower in 
Bechamel sauce. 

with small sausages, blanched and peeled chest- BOILED CAPON WITH MILANAISE GAR- 

nuts, button mushrooms, small glazed onions NISH Prepared and boiled as above, and 

served surrounded with a garnish of boiled 
macaroni in inch lengths, with strips of cooked 



The birds drawn, washed, singed and trussed, 
bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white 
stock, sauce made from the stock, some mush- 
room puree worked into it, also some whole 
button mushrooms that have been sauteed in 
butter; served surrounded with the mushrooms 
in sauce. 

STEWED CAPON WITH VEGETABLES 
The birds 'prepared, then disjointed into por- 
tion pieces, lightly fried in butter, then ar- 
ranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, onions 
and a bunch of sweet herbs, moistened with 
stock and a glass of Madeira wine, stewed 
slowly till tender; served garnished with a 
macedoine of vegetables made hot in Madeira 
sauce. 



with vegetables, herbs and spices, moistened 
half way up with white stock and a glass of 
white wine, covered with buttered paper, 
braised till done and glazy. Served garnished 



and pieces of cooked bacon all made hot in a 
good roast fowl gravy. 
BRAISED CAPONS, SAUCE SUPREME 
Prepared and braised as in the preceding; 



tongue, sliced mushrooms and minced truffle 
peelings made hot in a Veloute" sauce. 



served with Supreme sauce poured around, and BOILED STUFFED CAPON, CELERY 

SAUCE The birds prepared, then stuffed 
with celery, the skin rubbed with lemon juice, 
bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white 
stock, sauce made from it, into which is worked 
strips of blanched celery about an inch long, 
the celery then simmered in the sauce till ten- 
der; served with the sauce poured around, and 
garnished with green celery tops. 



decorated with strips of cooked tongue and 
watercress. 

ROAST CAPON STUFFED, GIBLET SAUCE 
- -The birds prepared, then filled with a savory 
stuffing, trussed, bacon tied over the breast, 
roasted and basted till done, bacon then re- 
moved, and the breast quickly browned; served 
with a sauce made from the residue of the 



roasting pan, with minced and sauteed giblets CAPSICUMS Are better known as chillies or 



worked into it; garnished with watercress. 

BOILED CAPON WITH SALT PORK The 
capon prepared and the breast filled with 
chicken forcemeat, then trussed, boiled in white 
stock with a piece of salt pork, served with a 
sauce poured around, made from the stock it 
was boiled in, to which is added chopped pars- 
ley and flanked with thin slices of pork. 

BRAISED CAPONS WITH TOMATOED 
RICE The birds prepared, the breast cov- 
ered with bacon, braised with vegetables and 



peppers; they are of two shapes, the long thin 
dark red, which is used in vinegars, pickles, 
and to grind into red pepper; and the 
round green bell shaped, which is generally 
stuffed and baked, or cut up into many sauces, 
soups and garnitures. 

CARAMEL Is a term used by cooks for burnt 
sugar thinned with water, and used to color 
soups, sauces, gravies, syrups, icecreams, etc., 
that require a brown tint without a pronounced 



flavoring. 

spices; when done, taken up, and the braise CARBONADE A French term applied to denote 
strained, skimmed, and added to a Ve'loute a stew composed of cold meats, generally sea- 

soned with onions and garlic, such as carbonado 

of beef, mutton, etc. 

with a small mold of the rice turned out on end CARAWAY Name of seeds of a wild plant used 
of dish with some of the sauce poured around. in distilling, for cordial and cake flavoring. 

QUENELLES, CARDINAL Name applied to foods, sauces and 

drinks, that are colored a bright red. 



sauce. Rice boiled in chicken stock till done, 
drained, mixed with a tomato puree; served 



BRAISED CAPONS WITH 

SAUCE PERIGUEUX Prepared and braised 



as in the preceding, the braise strained, skim- CARDOONS A vegetable resembling sea-kale, 
med, reduced to glaze, then mixed into a Peri- but the stalks are feathery. Plentifully grown 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



in Canada; may be treated the same as sea- 
kale. 

CARMINE A red coloring used for syrups, 
sauces, cakes, etc., obtained from the cochineal 
insect; made by bruising four ounces of coch- 



eggs, minced chives and shallots, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg; sewn up, scored, 
rolled in oil paper, and slowly broiled till done 
through; served with fines- herbes sauce poured 
over and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 



ineal insects and soaking for a few minutes in FRIED CARP, PIQUANTE SAUCE The fish 



three pints of cold water, then put to boil with 
two ounces of common washing soda; when 
boiling, removed to where it simmers only, 
then slowly is added two ounces of rock alum, 
then four ounces of cream of tartar, boiled up 
for two minutes, strained, and when cold, 
bottled for use. 

CARP A fresh water fish, in season from Sep- 
tember to May; is highly esteemed, and.its roe 
is nearly equal to that of the Shad. 

BAKED CARP, SAUCE MATELOTE The 
fish scaled and trimmed, filled with savory stuf- 



scaled, trimmed, washed, dried, rubbed with 
lemon juice, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, dipped in beaten eggs, fried; 
served with Piquante sauce poured around, 
garnished with lemon and parsley, and sur- 
rounded with Parisienne potatoes. 
BOILED CARP ROES, SAUCE SUPREME 
The roes washed, then steeped for an hour in 
cold water with vinegar, slowly boiled in light 
consomm with lemon juice in it; served with 
supreme sauce poured over, and garnished with 
potatoes Anglaise. 



fing, sewn up, scored into cutting portions, the FRIED CARP ROES, SAUCE TARTARS 

The roes washed and steeped as above, then 
blanched in salted vinegar water, taken out and 
wiped dry, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
lemon juice, breaded, fried; served with tartar 
sauce poured around, garnished with lemon, 
parsley and chip potatoes. 

served with it, and garnished with Duchesse SCALLOPED CARP ROES IN SHELL-The 

roes cleansed, steeped and blanched, theu 
boiled in salted vinegar water till done; taken 
up, cut into dice with mushrooms, put into a 
Ve'loute sauce with a little lobster coral, then 
filled into scallop shells, sprinkled with bread 
crumbs and melted butter, baked and served. 



back dipped in beaten eggs, then in bread 
crumbs, laid in pan, back sprinkled with melted 
butter, moistened with a little red wine and 
consomme^ a few slices of onions added, slowly 
baked till done, taken up, the residue of the 
pan strained into a matelote sauce, the fish 



potatoes. 

BAKED CARP, SAUCE GENOISE The fish 

scaled, trimmed and stuffed as above, sewn up, 

scored, baked in Genoise sauce, served with it, 

and garnished with potatoes Bignonne. 

BRAISED STUFFED CARP, SAUCE ALLE- 

MANDE-The fish scaled, trimmed, stuffed PATTIES OF CARP ROES-The preceding 

mixture filled into patty shells; served with the 
top sprinkled with lobster coral, and Vlout6 
sauce poured around. 



with fish forcemeat, sewn up, the skin then 

spread with more forcemeat, placed in a sau- 

toir with vegetables and spices, moistened with 

fish stock and white wine, covered with buttered CARP SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE-The fish 

a pound each in weight, scaled, trimmed, 
washed, dried, scored, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, rolled in flour, slowly fried in butter 



paper, slowly braised till done, taken up, braise 
strained, skimmed, and added to an Allemande 
sauce, served with it, and garnished with Hol- 
landaise potatoes. 
BOILED CARP, CAPER SAUCE The fish 



** 



till done; served surrounded with Admiral 
sauce, garnished with parsley, lemon and Vic* 
toria potatoes. 



into portions, placed in sautoir with 
stuck with cloves and a bunch of herbs, cov- 
ered with good beef gravy and a little port wine, 
boiled slowly till done, sauce made from the 
liquor it was boiled in; when done, capers and 
caper vinegar added to it; served with the fish, 
garnished with Conde potatoes. 
BROILED CARP, LEMON PARSLEY BUT- 
TER The fish scaled, trimmed, washed, dried 
and filleted, scored across the skin, seasoned 



le, 01 at CARROTS A vegetable that in this country 



ters into almost every soup, sauce, ragout, etc., 
for its flavor, and in the early summer when 
new and about two inches long, are relished as 
an accompaniment to fresh boiled beef, New 
England dinner, etc. 

CARROTS m CREAM -The carrots 
washed and ed> theQ bojled tendef - n ^ 

Jng sahed water taken up and drained then 

simmere d in reduced cream or thin cream 
sauce; served as a vegetable. 



with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then dip- SAUT O F NEW CARROTS Washed, scraped 

ped in olive oil, broiled, served with Maitre and boiled as above then sauteed in buiier> 

D'Hotel butter poured over and garnished with taken up and mixed into Maitre D - H 6tel but- 

chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. ter; served as a garnish. 

BROILED STUFFED CARP.FINES-HERBES BRAISED NEW CARROTS, PARSLEY 

SAUCE Fish a pound each in weight, scaled, SAUCE The carrots washed and scraped, 

trimmed and washed, filled with a forcemeat then braised in consomme 1 to a glaze, taken up; 

made of minced mushrooms, small pieces of served on small platters with some parsley 

any cooked fish, chopped parsley, hard boiled sauce at the end, as a vegetable. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



39 



GLAZED NEW CARROTS WITH BUTTER 
Prepared and glazed as in the preceding, 
taken up, dipped in melted butter and used as 
a garnish. 

NEW CARROTS IN BROWN GRAVY 
Glazed as above, taken up, put into a rich 
brown gravy; served as a garnish sprinkled 
with parsley, or as a vegetable. 

STEWED CARROTS WITH GREEN PEAS 
New carrots cored with a column cutter, then 
cut in thin slices, stewed in consomme 1 till 
tender; green peas boiled in salted water with 
a bunch of fresh mint, strained off when done, 
and mixed with the carrots; served as a vege- 
table. 

NEW CARROTS IN POULETTE SAUCE 
Washed and scraped, then boiled in boiling 
salted water till tender, drained off and then 
mixed into Poulette sauce and served as a 
vegetable. 

CURRIED CARROTS WITH RICE Vegetar- 
ian entree The carrots prepared and cooked 
(as in Braised New Carrots, Parsley Sauce), 
then taken up and mixed into a good curry 
sauce made of cream; served in the center of a 
border of dry boiled rice. 

CARROT SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS 
The carrots glazed and when cold the tips 
dipped into Ravigote sauce, arranged alter- 
nately on dish with points of asparagus sprink- 
led with Vinaigrette sauce, and garnished with 
shred lettuce. 

CARROT SOUP Plenty of carrots with a few 
soup vegetables boiled in stock with a piece of 
corned beef; when meat is done, taken up, the 
soup then made thick with roux, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve, boiled up again, seasoned 
and skimmed; served with croutons, (called, 
PUREE CRECY). 

CARVING To carve a LOIN OF MUTTON 
OR VEAL, begin at the small end and cut 
between the ribs. A FILLET OF VEAL 
should be cut first from the top, and in a 
BREAST OF VEAL, the breast and brisket 
should first be separated, then cut across. A 
SIRLOIN OF BEEF should be placed with 
the tenderloin down, thin cut slices should be 
cut from the side next the carver, then turn 
over the roast and carve from underneath; a 
slice of both should be served. In restaurants 
the -sirloin is generally all used up in Porter- 
house steaks. A RIB ROAST should be put 
on the carving table thick end down and stand- 
ing upright, the first two ribs cut off to be used 
for well done orders, the chine removed, and 
broad level thin slices served, with gravy 
poured under. SHORT RIBS should be 
served with the bone left in. A LEG OF 
MUTTON should be carved across the middle 
of the bone first and then from the thickest 
part till the gristle is reached. A few nice 
slices can be cut from the smaller end, but it 
is usually hard and stringy. A HAM can be 



served in several ways: by cutting long delicate 
slices through the thick fat down to the bone; 
by running the point of the knife in a circle in 
the middle and cutting thin circular slices, 
thus keeping the ham moist; or, by beginning 
at the knuckle end and slicing upwards; the 
latter is the most economical. A TONGUE 
should be carved in very thin slices, its delicacy 
depending upon this; the slices from the center 
are considered the most tempting, and should 
be cut across and the slices taken from both 
sides with a portion of the fat from the root. 
In carving FISH, practice is required in order 
to prevent the flakes from breaking; the choic- 
est morsels of all large fish are near the head, 
the thin parts come next; the flavor nearest 
the bone is never equal to that on the upper 
part; a fish knife should always be used. 
FOWLS should be placed breast up, the fork 
put into the breast to steady the bird, then cut 
off the wings and legs, cut out the breast bone 
so as to leave a well browned skin over it and 
the white meat, cut off the side bones and di- 
vide what is left in two from the neck down, 
remove the second joint from the leg and wing. 
TENDERLOINS should have the tip cut off 
and then cut in medium thick slices across. 
HEARTS should be cut wedge shaped with 
some of the dressing. FOREQUARTERS 
OF LAMB should have the shoulder lifted off, 
and a slice of the shoulder and rib served to- 
gether. GOOSE should be carved lengthwise 
of the breast from the point downwards. 
DUCKLINGS should simply be cut into four 
quarters. DUCKS carved same as goose. 
PARTRIDGE and PHEASANTS same as fowls 
if large; if small partridge, split lengthwise in 
three, removing the backbone of the center cut. 
SQUABS, PLOVERS and QUAIL split length- 
wise in halves. All SMALL GAME left whole. 

CASSEROLE French name for a saucepan. It 
is also the name of a metal or earthenware 
tureen with a flat bottom, fitted with lid and 
handles. Various entries are cooked and 
served "en casserole", thus forming a pot roast 
or kind of braise. 

CASSOLETTE Are small cups formed of rice 
croquette mixture either sweet or savory; when 
formed, either rolled in flour only, or else 
breaded and fried; made to hold entries, jel- 
lies, fruits, etc. 

CASSIA Is the name of a small tree which 
yields a bark that has less aroma, but is hard 
otherwise to detect from cinnamon; it is ground 
and made into oils and extracts, and passed off 
for cinnamon generally without detection. 

CATFISH Are of two kinds or main varieties, 
the "sea catfish" and "river catfish". Both 
are good for food, yet they are not of the same 
species. They are seldom, if ever, put on 
hotel bills of fare other than as ' 'Fried catfish", 
"Catfish saute"", "Braised catfish with toma- 
toes", etc., or as "Catfish chowder". 



40 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

BOILED CAULIFLOWER, HOLLANDAISE in cans; it is considered by epicures to be one 

SAUCE The cauliflower trimmed, laid in of the finest of appetizers. 

salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted CAVIAR ON TOAST WITH OLIVES One 

boiling water with a dash of vinegar in it till part each of Russian caviar, soft bread crumbs, 

tender, taken up and drained; served with and blanched and peeled Jordan almonds mixed 

Hollan'daise sauce poured around; may also be together and minced into a paste, spread on 

served this way with tomato sauce. strips of toast, the edges garnished with slices 

STEWED CAULIFLOWER The cauliflower of stoned olives. 

prepared and boiled as above, then taken up CAVIAR TARTINES Russian ^caviar^spread 
arranged in a sautoir, covered 



and sectioned, arranged in 

with butter sauce and simmered; served as a 

vegetable. 

BAKED CAULIFLOWER Stewed as in the 
preceding, then placed into baking dish, cov- 
ered with bread crumbs and grated cheese, 
sprinkled with butter and baked. 

SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER Same as the 
preceding, but filled into scallop shells instead 
of baking dish; served in the shells. 

FRIED CAULIFLOWER, ALLEMANDE 
SAUCE The stewed cauliflower above, taken 
up, dipped into batter and fried; served with 
Allemande sauce poured around. 

CAULIFLOWER WITH MAYONNAISE 
Cold boiled cauliflower in flowerets, marinaded 
in French dressing, arranged on a leaf of let- 
tuce around the dish, with mayonnaise in the 
center. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD Cold boiled cauli- 
flowerets covered with cream salad dressing, 
arranged in center of dish, garnished with small 
balls of beets. 

PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER One-third v&- 

Iout6 sauce, one-third chicken stock, mixed and 
brought to the boil, minced cauliflower stalks 
and roots boiled in it till tender with a little 
thyme and parsley; when done, rubbed through 
a fine sieve, brought to the boil again and one- 
third of the whole of cream sauce then added; 
served with croutons. 

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER Same as the 
preceding, but when finished, very small flow- 
erets added before serving. 

CAULIFLOWER SAUCE Into a good butter 
sauce is worked some very small flowerets of 
boiled cauliflower with a little pure"e, (good for 
boiled poultry). 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER Cauliflowers 
boiled till tender in flowerets, then put into 
jars, and covered with the following pickle: 
One pound of dry mustard mixed with one 
ounce of turmeric, then moistened with vinegar. 
One gallon of vinegar brought to the boil, the 
mustard and turmeric paste stirred into it, 
brought to the simmer and when beginning to 
thicken, one pound of sugar, half a pint of olive 
oil, and two ounces of mustard seed succes- 
sively added to it, simmered for a few minutes, 
then poured boiling hot over the cauliflowers 
in the jars. 

CAVIAR Is a preparation made from the roes 
of sturgeon, can be bought at the grocery stores 



on toast, and the edges decorated with finely 

chopped green gherkins, parsley and sweet 

peppers mixed together. 
CANAPES OF CAVIAR Circles of toast, the 

edges spread with anchovy paste, with an onion 

ring as its base, the ring filled with Russian 

caviar. 
EGGS STUFFED WITH CAVIAR Cut slices 

of hard boiled eggs, the yolks removed, its 

place filled with Russian caviar; served on thin 

slices of buttered brown bread. 
CAVIAR WITH EGG Slices of toast, the edges 

piped with beaten whites of eggs, caviar 

sprinkled on top, whole yolk of raw egg dropped 

in the center, baked till set, and served hot. 
CAVIAR CROUSTADES Very small paste 

croustades half an inch deep filled with caviar. 

on it placed a freshly opened blue point oyster; 

served garnished with lemon and watercress. 
CELERY Is an aromatic plant cultivated largely 

as a flavoring vegetable and for uses of salads. 
It is generally sent to table in a raw condition, 
is the one and proper thing to eat with "canvas 
back duck". Kalamazoo, Michigan, is the 
great celery raising spot in this country. When 
the celery industry was started in Kalamazoo, 
it was not for several years that the enterpris- 
ing pioneers in this industry discovered that 
the thousands of acres of river bottom lands 
surrounding the city were especially adapted 
in the raising of celery to the pinnacle of es- 
teem and popular favor it cow holds. Visitors 
to Kalamazoo ate it, and carried away marve- 
lous tales of its delicacy, orders to purchase 
and forward were sent back to friends and ex- 
press agents, and the industry that was destined 
to make Kalamazoo famous as the celery city 
was born. At the present time there are thous- 
ands of acres under cultivation, and celery 
finds its way from Kalamazoo to every part of 
the United States and special shipments have 
been sent by steamer to Liverpool and London. 
In raising celery the seed is first sown during 
the winter months in specially prepared hot 
houses, of which there are acres under glass, 
the plants are transplanted, thinned out, and 
about the first of May are again transplanted 
to the fields, being planted in specially prepared 
trenches in double rows. There it is carefully 
looked after, cultivated and irrigated, and when 
of the proper size, the rich black soil is drawn 
up around the plants from both sides, until it 
forms a bank reaching nearly to the top of the 
leaves. About fourteen days is required for 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 41 

the plant to acquire that silvery whiteness and with salt, pepper and a little butter, the mix- 
delicate crispness so enjoyed by every lover of ture steamed till it thickens, then filled into 
celery. The shipping season then commences, patty cases and served hot. 
and celery is taken from the fields to the pack- BAKED CELERY WITH CHEESE The cel- 



ery cut into inch lengths like macaroni, boiled 
in salted water till tender, drained, mixed with 
a little grated ham and chopped green celery 
leaves, arranged in layers in baking dish, each 
layer sprinkled with grated cheese; when full, 
moistened with Veloute" sauce, sprinkled with 
grated bread crumbs mixed with cheese, then 
with melted butter and baked. 



ing rooms, carefully washed and tied in bunches 
of twelve heads each, packed and delivered to 
the express company for shipment. The fall 
crop, which is abundant later, is taken from 
the fields about the first of November, and is 
placed in specially constructed houses for pre- 
servation during the cold weather months. The 
season usually commences about the first of 
July and closes about February. From its CELERY WITH MARROW The stewed eel- 
start as the appetizer, in front of a good dinner, ery (as in Stewed Celery on Toast) served on 

toast spread with marrow; served garnished 
with slices of cooked marrow. 

The use of celery and its adaptability in the FRIED CELERY, SAUCE VILLEROI Three- 
preparation of table condiments is well seen on inch lengths of celery stalk boiled not quite 

done in salted water, drained, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, breaded and fiied; served with 
Villeroi sauce poured around, 
quality for use at any time in the preparation BOILED CELERY WITH ONIONS Stalks 
of salads; celery pickles, celery mustard, celery of celery about three inches long, small onions 
salt, celery pepper, celery extracts and tonic, of an even size, both boiled together in veal 
in fact everything that can be manufactured stock till tender; served, the celery on toast 
from it in any way. Chopped and canned masked with Bechamel sauce, garnished with 
celery are especially adapted to the wants of onions. 

the "Chef as they are always ready at any CELERY FRITTERS Celery stalks three 
season of the year, and particularly useful are inches long, tied in bundles three stalks thick, 
they at the season when good celery is not ob- boiled till tender in salted water, taken up and 
tainable. There is also manufactured a pre- drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and Par- 
pared salad ready for the table, whose flavor mesan cheese, string removed, dipped in batter 
and excellence is as surprising as it is delicious. and fried : served as a vegetable. 
CREAM OF CELERY -Into a good veal or BRAISED CELERY ON TOAST-Celery stalks 

all of an even size, boiled not quite done in 
salted water, then arranged in a sautoir, and 
moistened with strong chicken stock and a 
piece of glaze, stewed down rich; served on 



its rare beauty as a table ornament, etc., the 
rise of celery to popular appreciation was rapid. 



the grocers' shelves. There is canned celery 
for cooking only; chopped celery put up in such 
a manner as to retain its crispness and good 



chicken stock is put a knuckle of ham, a few 
onions, plenty of outside stalks of celery, and a 
few blades of mace; boiled till celery is soft, 
ham then taken out and the soup thickened 
with roux and rubbed through a fine sieve, 



toast with the glaze poured over it. 



boiled up again with the addition of an equal CELERY SAUTE-Celery stalks of an even size, 



quantity of Bechamel sauce, seasoned and 

served (also called puree). 
PUREE OF CELERY AND ONIONS Same 

as the preceding, but using a puree of onions 

or sauce soubise to add with the celery puree, 

instead of Bechamel. 
CELERY CONSOMME The vegetables in the 

consomme stock composed mostly of celery, to 

give it a pronounced flavor; when strained and 

skimmed, Julienne strips of boiled celery added 

to it, seasoned and served. 
STEWED CELERY ON TOAST Celery stalks 

all cut about the same size like asparagus, 



blanched, then arranged in a sautoir with some 
bacon trimmings and a minced shallot, heated 
thoroughly, then moistened with equal parts of 
tomato and Espagnole sauces, simmered till 
done; served on toast with the sauce poured 
over. 

MAYONNAISE OF CELERY The tender parts 
only should be used by cutting them into pencil 
strips an inch long, washing thoroughly, then 
drained and mixed with mayonnaise; served on 
a leaf of lettuce. 

CELERIAC--A form of celery with a bulbous 
root, used as a salad and for flavoring, but little 



used in hotel work. 

boiled tender in salted water, taken up and CEPES A strongly flavored flat headed mush- 
arranged in a sautoir, moistened with Veloute' room, imported in cans, preserved in olive oil. 
sauce, simmered; served with one end resting SAUTE OF CEPES ON TOAST Drained 

from their oil, lightly fried in pan, when thor- 
oughly heated, sprinkled with lemon juice and 
chopped parsley, arranged on toast, and served 
very hot. 

pounded to a paste with a cupful each of grated STEWED CEPES ON TOAST The cepes 
ham, cream, and fine bread crumbs, seasoned drained from their oil and then cut in slices, 



on toast, with some of the sauce poured over 
the ends. 

CELERY PATTIES The hearts of eight heads 
of celery boiled till tender, drained, then 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



arranged in a safitoir with chopped parsley, 
minced onions and garlic, moistened with Es- 
pagnole sauce, simmered; served on toast with 
sauce around. 

BROILED CEPES ON TOAST Drained from 
their oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in fresh bread crumbs, broiled; served on toast 
with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them, 
and garnished with lemon and parsley. 

OMELET WITH CEPES The cepes drained, 
cut in slices, fried in butter with a crushed 
clove of garlic, taken up and mixed with a little 
Colbert sauce; served enclosed in a savory 
omelet, with more of the cepes in sauce poured 
around. 

CERCELLES The French name sometimes 
seen on bills of fare for "Teal". 

CERVELAS The French name for a highly 
spiced small sausage of the bologna order; can 
be purchased at the Italian and Delicatessen 
stores. 

CEREALINE A white flaky pudding material 
prepared from Indian corn; also boiled plain 
and eaten with cream as a breakfast cereal; 
made into puddings according to the various 
recipes of the vendors, printed on the sides of 
the packets in which it is sold. 

CERVELLES French name for animal brains, 
for recipes, see "brains". 

CHABLIS The name of a white French wine, 
principally used for cooking purposes, but some 
of the brands of the genuine article are highly 
prized for their digestive and health giving 
qualities, such as Montrachet, Clos, Blanchot 
and Moutonne. 

CHAFING DISH A vessel heated from the 
underneath by a spirit lamp, also by electricity; 
is used for keeping and serving foods hot, or 
cooking on the table; for recipes, see "Chafing 
Dish Cookery" in the "CHEF'S REMINDER". 

CHAMPAGNE A wine prepared from grapes; 
the best varieties are manufactured at Epernay, 
Rbeims and Mareuil in France, but the vin- 
tages of each year are vastly different, and 
sometimes the grape crop is a dismal failure. 
Hence champagne drinkers in Europe and 
Great Britain are versed on the merits and de- 
merits of the various vintages. While in the 
United States, but very little attention has thus 
far been paid to the matter; the following clip- 
ping from the Hotel World of London, Eng- 
land, will doubtless be of interest: 



1880 

1879 

1878 
1877 
1876 
1875 
1874 

1873 
1872 
1871 
1870 
1869 
1868 

1867 



Yield in 
Year gallons 



Character of the wines 



1891 3,548,292 Passable, but very dear. 

Ib90 6,673,656 Ordinary quality, 

1889 6,109.994 Very good, price excessively high. 

1888 4,639,098 Passable. 

18-7 10,409.278 Fairly good, light. 

1886 6,525,398 Some good wines with abundance of vln- 
osity ; but for the most part the vintage 
is under suspicion, which time has not so 
far lessened 

1886 8,199.070 Mediocre, resembling the 1883's. 

1884 11,528,946 Fine elegant wines, highly prized by con- 
noisseurs. 

1883 9,051.460 Mediocre and dear; acid. 

1882 7,068668 Mediocre; acid; Immature. 

1881 14,627,140 Passable. 



2,423,236 Very good; lighter than the 1874's, exces- 
sively dear. 

2 008.776 Complete failure, yield small, fortunately. 
11.698.546 Good; fine; light. 
10.407.694 Mediocre; acid. 
16.120.786 Mediocre. 
21.710.346 Passable. 
8,178,644 Very fine, both as to vlnosity and color. 

has been greatly sought after. 

1,138.718 Bad; acid, and notwithstanding that, dear. 
4.480,960 Fairly good. 
6,485,306 Mediocre. 
4.960.010 Good. 
8.542886 Passable. 
12,316,700 Very good, elegant, and lighter than the 

1865's. 

3.889.3S6 Mediocre. 
1866 19.44U.870 Bad. 
1865 14,314,542 Wine of superior quality ; very vinous. 

CHANTILLY Is the title given by confectioners 
to a form of basket made of cakes, choux paste, 
candied peels, almond paste, etc., filled with 
whipped cream. Chantilly cream is simply 
whipped cream. 

CHANTILLY SOUP Fresh green peas, a bunch 
of fresh mint, some green onion tops and a 
piece of salt pork boiled together in good chick- 
en stock; when done the pork removed, the 
stock thickened with roux, then rubbed through 
a sieve, the pure boiled up again and seasoned; 
served with croutons. 

CHARCOAL One of the kitchen essentials for 
good broiling, should be kept dry in a good 
cellar; often times bought by the load, the load 
presumed to contain so many bushels; when 
happening to be delivered as many things are 
in bulk, during the steward's absence, the fol- 
lowing capacities of cribs and boxes for pota- 
toes and other root vegetables, coal, charcoal, 
etc., will be found reliable and useful: 
[The United States standard (Winchester) 

bushel, 18^ inches in diameter, and 8 inches 

deep, contains 2150.42 cubic inches.] 
One cubic foot equals four-fifths of a bushel. 
A box 3x3x3 27 cubic feet and holds 21 3/5 bushels 

A box 5x3x2 80 24 

A box 5x.3 46 " " " 3 

A box 5x3x4 60 " " " " 48 
A box 7x5x3.9 131 X " " " " 1041/3 



A box 7x7x7 343 
A box 8x8x8 512 
A box 10x10x10 1000 



2742/5 
4093/5 

800 



CHARLOTTE Is the name given to what might 
be called a shell of bread, cake, lady fingers, 
etc., cut to fit into a mold or pan, which is then 
filled with fruits, creams, custards, etc. 

CHARTREUSE Is the name of a liqueur made 
in three colors, green, yellow and white; origi- 
nally made by the monks of a French monastery 
at Dauphine, in the Alps mountains. There 
are, however, dishes dedicated to these monks, 
called "chartreuses"; they are made of various 
rich foods, such as prairie hens, fish, partridges, 
larks, snipe, squabs, chickens, fruits, etc., en- 
closed in a mold or shell of a much more com- 
mon material, being a disguise, inasmuch as 
the monks were under severe dicipline, and 
were supposed to be very frugal. Recipes for 
chartreuses will be found under the respective 
food which demands it. 

CHASSEUR Is the French word for "liunter"; 
a la Chasseur means hunter's style, sauce 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



43 



Chasseur, hunter's sauce, made from the pro- 
ceeds of the hunt. 

CHATEAUBRIAND Is the name given to a 
style of cooking a tenderloin steak between two 
others of inferior cuts and then pressing the 
juice of the two outside ones over the fillet. 
But some cooks simply take a fillet steak, split, 
stuff and broil it, serve it with a Maitre D'Hotel 
butter mixed with beef glaze, and call that 
"Chateaubriand". History says the first is 
right. 

CHAUDFROID Literally means hot-cold, and 
is applied to dishes that are prepared hot, then 
made into a form more suitable to eat cold, 
such as chaudfroid of game, fowl, partridge, 
woodcocks, larks, reedbirds, pheasants, plovers, 
quail and turkey, for recipes of which see the 
sub-heading of the articles mentioned. 

CHEESE A most nutritious food, forming many 
excellent dishes; it is of various kinds, of which 
the following are to be found in good hotels: 
Skim, cream, full cream, cheddar, stilton, 
roquefort, camembert, brie, neufchatel, par- 
mesan, edam, gorgonzola, gruyere, port-du- 
salut, sage, sap-sago, and sometimes on the bar 
and in German clubs may be found Limburger, 
to describe which the following story will aid 
without further comment: 

LIMBURGER CHEESK. Ma sent me to pay a bill at the 
grocers last Saturday. The boss behind the counter made 
me a present of something wrapped in a piece of silver 
paper, which he told me was a piece of Limburger cheese. 
When I got outside the shop I opened the paper, and when 
I smelt what was inside I felt tired. I took it home and put 
It in the coal shed. In the morning L went to it again. It 
was still there. Nobody had taken it. I wondered what I 
could do with it. Father and mother were getting ready to 
go to church. 1 put a piece in the back pocket of father's 
pants, and another piece in the lining of ma's muff. I 
walked behind when we started for church. It was begin- 
ning to get warm. When we got in church, father looked 
anxious and mother looked as If something had happened* 
After the first hymn, mother told father not to sing againi 
but to keep his mouth shut, and breathe through his nose. 
After the prayer, prespiration stood on father's face, and 
the people in the next pew to ours got up and went out. 
After the next hymn father whispered to mother that he 
thought she had better go out and air herself. After the 
second lesson, some of the church wardens came round to 
see If there were any stray rats in the church. Some more 
people near our pew got up and went out, putting their 
handkerchiefs to their noses as they went. The parson 
said they had better close the service, and hold a meeting 
outside to discuss the sanitary condition of the church. 
Father told mother they had better go home one at a time. 
Mother told father to go the nearest way home and disinfect 
himself before she came. When they got home, they both 
went Into the front room, but did not speak for some time- 
Mother spoke first, and told father to put the cat out of the 
room, as she thought it was going to be sick. It was sick 
before father could get it out. Mother then turned round, 
and noticed that the canary was dead. Mother told father 
not to sit so near to the fire, as it made matters wor^e. 
Father told mother to go and smother herself. Mother said 
she thought she was smothered already. Just then the 
servant came in. and asked if she should open the windows, 
as the room felt very close. Father went upstairs and 
changed his clothes, and had a hot batb. Mother took 
father's clothes and offered them to a tramp, who said, 
"Thanks, kind lady, they are a bit too high for me." 
Mother threw them over the back fence Into the canal. 
Father was summoned afterwards for poisoning the fish. 
Mother went to bed. Father asked her 1C she had been 
fumigated. Just then father had a note sent him. Father 



came to wish me "Good Night" at 10 o'clock in the evening, 

with a note In one hand and a razor strop in the other. I 

got under the bed. The people next door thought we were 

beating carpets In the house. I cannot sit down comfortably 

yet. I have given my little sister what 1 had left of that 

Limburger cheese. I thought it a pity to waste it. 

WELSH RAREBIT A little butter placed in a 
small shallow sadtoir; when melted, finely cut 
cheese added to it, seasoned with salt, red pep- 
per, dry mustard and Worcestershire sauce 
as it begins to melt, ale added till it becomes 
of a creamy nature; a hot dish with slices of 
hot toast, the cheese poured over it and served. 

GOLDEN BUCK Is the preceding with a 
poached egg on top. 

YORKSHIRE RAREBIT Is a Golden Buck 
with a strip of broiled bacon on each side of 
the egg. 

OLD FASHIONED YORKSHIRE BUCK A 
slice of bread half inch thick thinly spread with 
mustard, placed in hot oven till brown, moist- 
ened with half a glass of ale, covered with a 
slice of cheese quarter inch thick, two thin 
slices of bacon placed on the cheese, returned 
to oven and cooked till the cheese is melted 
and the bacon done; served very hot. 

COTTAGE CHEESE A good way to use up 
sour milk; let the milk sour to clotness, boiling 
water then poured to it, stirred, turned into a 
colander, little cold water poured over it, salt 
added and again stirred, then placed into a 
muslin bag and drained dry; served either plain 
or mixed with cream. Sometimes a little cream 
and finely chopped chives are added to it before 
serving, especially for the bar lunch. 

CHEESE SCALLOPS Individual patty pans 
buttered, then lined with slices of cheese, an 
egg then broke into the center, seasoned with 
pepper, a table-spoonful of milk or cream 
poured over the egg, then dredged with grated 
cheese and slowly baked for twenty minutes, 
turned out and served on dry or fried toast. 

CHEESE STRAWS One pound of flour, three- 
quarter pound of grated cheese, four raw yolks 
of eggs, seasoned with salt and red pepper, 
made into a paste, rolled out thin, cut into 
strips and baked a straw color. 

CHEESE SAVORIES Water crackers split, 
and the open side thinly spread with anchovy 
butter; then, with a paste made of two parts 
of roquefort cheese to one part of butter, sea- 
soned with salt, red pepper and a dash of sherry 
wine; served garnished with thin slices of green 
gherkins. 

CHEESE BISCUITS Half a pound each of 
butter and flour, four raw egg yolks, ten ounces 
of grated Swiss cheese, one table-spoonful ol 
dry mustard and a little red pepper, the butter 
beaten to a cream, the eggs and dry ingredients 
then added, made into a stiff dough, rolled out, 
cut in square biscuits, baked twenty minutes 
in a rather slow oven and served. 

CHEESE RAMEQUINS Half a pound each of 
roquefort and Swiss cheeses, one pound of but- 



44 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ter, sixteen raw yolks of eggs, and the insides 
of four breakfast rolls boiled in cream till soft, 
the whole then made into a paste, and then 
mixed lightly with the beaten whites of sixteen 
eggs; filled into fancy paper cases and baked a 
fine brown; served very hot. 

CHEESE BOMBE Into a choux paste made of 
three-quarter pound of flour, one-half pound of 
butter and a quart of water, work in one at a 
time twelve raw yolks and eight whites of eggs, 
then three-quarter pound of grated Swiss 
cheese; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in not 
too hot fat; when done, served with Montpelier 
butter. 

CHEESE FLANS Scalloped circles of puff 
paste, on one half of it is spread a paste made 
of twelve ounces of parmesan cheese, eight 
ounces of butter, eight yolks and four beaten 
whites of eggs, the other half turned on to it, 
edges pinched down, arranged on baking sheet, 
brushed over with egg wash, baked, served 
with watercress. 

CHEESE CASSEROLES Slices of bread one 
and a half inches thick, trimmed circular, a 
center then cut out with column cutter leaving 
a bottom, dipped in milk, then breaded and 
fried, taken up and the center filled with a 
mixture made of two parts bread crumbs, one 
part grated cheese, and half a part each of 
melted butter and milk; seasoned with salt and 
red pepper, baked quickly till cheese is melted 
and served very hot. 

CHEESE CUSTARD Grated cheese, beaten 
raw eggs, dry mustard, salt and pepper beaten 
into milk at the rate of three eggs and four 
ounces of cheese to the quart; poured into hot 
buttered scallop dishes and baked; served in 
the dish. 

CHEESE PUDDING Is the same mixture as 
the preceding, but the scallop dish fitted with 
a slice of buttered toast, and the mixture 
poured over it before baking. 

CHEESE SOUFFLES Another name for 
"Cheese Ramequins", (which see). 

CHEESE FRITTERS Half a pound of grated 
Parmesan cheese seasoned with salt and red 
pepper worked into the beaten whites of eight 
eggs; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in hot 
fat, then taken up and rolled into grated cheese 
mixed with finely chopped parsley; served 
very hot. 

POTTED CHEESE Grated cheese, to every 
pound of which is added four ounces of melted 
butter and a tablespoonful of brandy, with a 
seasoning of dry mustard and red pepper, 
pressed into jars, covered with parchment 
paper and kept for use. This is also called 
"Club cheese" and can be bought in small jars. 

CHEESE CONES The paste given for "Cheese 
Straws" (which see), cut in squares and baked, 
then a cone of whipped cream mixed with 
grated parmesan cheese forced on top with a 
bag and fancy tube. 



CHEESE OMELET Beaten eggs with a little 
cream seasoned with salt and red pepper, fried 
in omelet form, but before being rolled dredged 
with grated cheese; served with a dredging of 
cheese on top, melted in the oven. 

CHEESE FINGERS Strips of puff paste finger 
lengths; with each fold of the paste, grated 
cheese is rolled in, then cut in strips, egg 
washed and baked. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES Thin slices of but- 
tered bread with a thin slice of cheese between, 
or spread with "Potted Cheese" (which see). 

CHEMISE A French term used to designate 
potatoes boiled in their skins, which they call 
"pommes de terre, en chemise". 

CHERRIES California produces our best table 
cherries, while most all of the states produce 
the red and black sour cooking cherries. The 
following clipping from the San Francisco 
Wave will show how an immense crop is 
handled at a California ranch: "Probably 
there is no better known and certainly there 
are few larger ranches in the state of California 
than that owned by the Meek estate. It is sit- 
uated a little way outside the city of Oakland, 
and it covers a huge tract of land between San 
Lorenzo and Haywards. It is spread over 
3,300 acres of some of the finest fruit bearing 
country on the Pacific coast. A thousand 
acres of this extent is in fruit, for the most part 
cherries. The season's cherry picking goes on 
at a great rate, and a little army of pickers toil 
from tree to tree, stripping the branches like a 
swarm of locusts. The sight is picturesque, 
for the pickers come by families and live in the 
cherry orchard in a small village of tents. At 
the height of the season nearly 150 pickers are 
employed. They are of all ages and both sexes, 
as the work is of such a nature that it can be 
performed as well by women as by men; as 
well by a ten year old girl as by a grown man. 
The pickers are boarded at the expense of the 
ranch, and besides receive from 75 cents to $i 
per day, so that a wife and two or three chil- 
dren can make as much during the few weeks 
of the season as the head of the house in an 
entire year. After the picking, the cherries 
are taken over to the packing house and 
handled at once; the riper cherries are sorted 
out and put upon the local markets, while the 
more backward are shipped East. The force 
of packers can dispose of 420 boxes per day. 
Two thousand boxes go to the carload, and 
must be hurried to their destination as speedily 
as possible, for there is no fruit that loses its 
flavor quicker by overkeeping than the cherry. 
For the same reason the boxes must be rapidly 
marketed, for they will not keep many hours 
in the heat of an Eastern summer. There are 
plenty of difficulties in the way of getting the 
California cherry upon the tables of the Eastern 
consumer, but with ordinary care and a fair 
season the prices obtainable are not bad. In 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 45 

Chicago a ten-pound box of California cherries with sugar, rolled up, ends tucked in, put in 

can be made to bring a dollar if properly pans and steamed or baked, or tied in wet 

handled, while in New York, though the East- floured cloths and plunged into boiling water, 

ern local market comes into competition, the kept boiling till done; serve with cherry sauce, 
same quality will sometimes fetch 12 cents per CHERRY TARTS Tart molds lined with puff 

pound. paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with sugar, 

CHERRY COMPOTE Sound, large sweet cher- baked, then meringued, browned and served, 
ries scalded for three minutes in a boiling CHERRIES IN CROUSTADES The crous- 

syrup made of two pounds of sugar to the quart tades made of sweetened rice croquette mixture, 

of water, the cherries then removed; the syrup the edges decorated; served hot, filled with 

flavored with noyeau, and when cold added to cherry compote. 

the cherries; served cold in sauce dishes, or CHERRY CHARLOTTE Small pans lined 

hot as a sweet entree with a border of sweet- with lady fingers, filled with cherry marmalade, 

ened rice. covered with fingers, baked and glazed; served 

BRANDIED CHERRIES Round, large, sweet with cherry sauce. 

cherries scalded for two or three minutes in a CHERRY MARMALADE Stoned cherries 

boiling syrup composed of one pound of sugar with some of their kernels boiled to a pulp with 

to each quart of water, then taken up and laid a very little water and twelve ounces of sugar 

on dishes to cool, afterwards filled into wide to each pound of fruit; when smooth and stiff 

mouthed bottles. The syrup they were scalded poured into crocks for future use. 

in then boiled up again with another pound of CHERRY COBBLER Shallow baking pans 

sugar added to each quart, scum removed as it li ne d with short paste, sides and bottom, filled 

rises; when clear, taken off the stove and al- w ith cherry meat mixed with sugar, covered 

lowed to become cold, then an equal quantity w ith short paste, egg washed and baked: served 

of brandy added. The brandied syrup then with cherry sauce. 

poured over the cherries in the bottles, which CHERRY TRIFLE Pieces of stale sponge cake 

are hermetically sealed and put away for use. moistened with equal parts of the syrup of 

BOUCHEES OF CHERRIES For recipes of brandied cherries and sherry wine, smoothed 

fruit bouchees see "Bouchees". down into a dish, then spread with cherry 

GLAZED CHERRIES WITH WHIPPED marmalade, over which is poured a boiled cus- 

CREAM Brandied cherries, the syrup poured tard flavored with noyeau, the custard decora- 

off and boiled down till thick and grainy, then ted with brandied cherries, 

flavored with Kirschenwasser, allowed to be- CHERRY FRITTERS Thin slices of fresh 

come cold, then poured over the cherries; bread spread between with cherry marmalade, 

served around a dome of whipped cream forced the sandwich then neatly trimmed, dipped into 

through a bag with fancy tube, (called, CER- a thin batter and fried, taken up, rolled in 

ISES GLACES, a la CHANTILLY). powdered sugar; served with cherry sauce. 

CHERRY JELLY Five pounds of stoned cherry CHERRY FLAWN A flawn mold lined with 

meat, juice of eight lemons, one pound of red puff paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with 

currant jelly and some bruised cherry kernels sugar, baked in slack oven till done, 

mixed and brought to the boil in a gallon of CHERRY WATER ICE One pound of stoned 

syrup, simmered and skimmed, removed from cherries and half pound of sugar to each quart 

the fire and four ounces of dissolved gelatine of water, with a dash of lemon juice and a 

added, then strained and restrained through a flavor of bitter almonds, the stoned cherries, 

jelly bag till clear, filled into molds or glasses; bruised kernels and sugar mixed and rubbed 

served when set. through a fine sieve into the flavored water; 

CHERRY PIE Stoned red sour cherries slight- then frozen. 

ly flavored with noyeau, mixed with sugar, CHERRY SHERBET --The water ice of the 

filled into a pie plate lined with pie paste, the preceding recipe, but when nearly frozen, 

fruit then sprinkled with carbonate of soda to whipped whites of eggs, two to the quart, are 

prevent the juice running over, covered with a added, then frozen till done, 

top crust, edges pressed and crimped, brushed CHERRY MERINGUE Sheet of sponge cake 

with egg wash and baked. spread thickly with cherry marmalade, then 

DEEP CHERRY FIE Sound red or black sour spread fancifully with meringue, dotted with 

cherries mixed with sugar, filled into a deep brandied cherries, baked a straw color, cut in 

lined pie dish, heaped high in the center, cov- shapes, served with cream or whipped cream, 

ered with top crust, egg washed, and baked. CHERVIL A garden herb with a combined 

CHERRY PUDDING Molds or bowls lined flavor of parsley and fennel. 

with short- paste, filled with cherry meat mixed CHESTNUTS The large ones obtainable at 

with sugar, covered with top crust, boiled or most Italian stores are the best suited for culi- 

steamed till done; served with cherry sauce. nary purposes, the small ones seen at the fruit 

CHERRY ROLY-POLY Sweet biscuit dough stalls being far too tedious. They should be 

rolled out thin, spread with cherry meat mixed first cut through the shell in the form of a 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



cross, so as to strip the shell off easily, then 
placed in a baking pan, put into a slack oven 
till done; or they may be boiled till done, and 
then husked. Some people like to eat boiled 

- chestnuts, the water being flavored with ani- 
seed; when husked, made hot again in a little 
melted butter. 

CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT Chestnuts boiled 
and husked, pounded to a paste with butter, 
mixed with a little grated ham, breadcrumbs, 
minced onion, grated lemon rind, yolks of eggs, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; used to stuff 
poultry and suckling pigs. 

DEVILLED CHESTNUTS Boiled, peeled, 
fried brown in butter oil, taken up and sprink- 
led with salt and red pepper. 

PUREE OF CHESTNUTS Boiled, peeled, 
pounded, then rubbed through a fine sieve. 

CHESTNUT SOUP A thin cream of chicken 
stock thickened with a puree of chestnuts, sea- 
soned and served. 

.CHIANTI A low priced yet good Italian wine 
with a Burgundy flavor. 

CHICORY A plant, the leaves of which are used 
for salads. The root is ground and used to mix 
with coffee, giving it a sweetish taste and dark 
color. Chicory should be discarded from coffee. 
Eminent physicians claim it has a debilitating 
effect, and a tendency to excite looseness of the 
bowels. Stewards who buy cheap ground coffee 
will invariably find it adulterated with chicory, 
and the chicory adulterated with Venitian red, 
acorns, beans, peas, coffee husks, rye, parsnips, 
damaged wheat, dried coffee grounds, sawdust, 
bark, logwood dust, etc. MORAL: do not 
handle it at all, buy whole coffee and see it 
ground yourselves. 

BROILED CHICKEN Spring chickens cleaned, 
split, the breast and backbone removed, thigh 
bone snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brushed with butter, broiled well done; served 
on buttered toast, garnished with lemon and 
watercress, using frills on leg and wing bones. 

FRIED CHICKEN- Spring chickens cleaned, 
split down the back, breast and backbone re- 
moved, thigh bone snapped, rolled in butter, 
then in flour, fried in skillet with a cover on; 
it may also be breaded, or dipped in batter, 
and fried in hot fat; the first way tastes the 
best. 

SMOTHERED CHICKEN Spring chickens 
split in halves, breast and backbone removed, 
thigh bone snapped, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, 
arranged in a baking pan with bacon fat, sliced 
vegetables and sweet herbs, moistened with a 
little chicken gravy, another pan put over as a 
lid, baked, basted and turned till done and 
brown, taken up; gravy made in the pan they 
were cooked in, strained, skimmed and served 
with the chickens. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES Cold roast chicken 



cut into very small dice mixed with minced 
mushrooms, seasoned with lemon juice, salt and 
nutmeg, boiled down thick in Veloute 1 sauce, 
turned into a shallow buttered pan, smoothed 
with a knife, covered with buttered paper; 
when cold, cut into even sized pieces, formed 
into cone shapes, breaded, fried, served with 
mushroom sauce poured around and garnished 
with croquette frills. 

MINCED CHICKEN CUTLETS. SAUCE BOR- 
DELAISE The croquette mixture preceding 
with the addition of a seasoning of minced fried 
shallots, thyme and chopped parsley; when 
cold, cut into even sized pieces, shaped like 
small lamb chops, using a piece of macaroni to 
represent the bone; breaded and fried; served 
with Bordelaise sauce poured around, and gar- 
nished with heart shaped croutons dipped in 
tomato sauce and sprinkled with chopped 
parsley. 

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Tender chickens 
cut into joints, seasoned with salt, pepper add 
lemon juice, rolled in flour, lightly fried in 
butter, then put into Vlout sauce and sim- 
mered till tender; Parisienne potatoes steamed, 
then plunged into boiling fat and lightly 
browned; button mushrooms sauteed in butter; 
the sauce the chickens were stewed in finished 
with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Served, 
the chicken with sauce poured over, and sur- 
rounded with alternate potatoes and mushrooms. 
Fricassee of chicken may also be made of 
boiled chickens the same way, or using cold 
boiled ones; the garnish may also be omitted 
or changed to the fancy of the cook. 

CHICKEN PIE Chickens boiled whole till ten- 
der with an onion and piece of salt pork; when 
done, taken up, the breasts and legs pulled off, 
the back bones thrown into the stock, the legs 
cut in halves, the under breast separated, and 
if the upper breast is large, cut in two, if small 
left whole; the pork cut into dice, the chicken 
then put into baking dishes with the pork, 
sliced hard boiled eggs, raw Parisienne pota- 
toes and some chopped parsley; covered with a 
sauce made from the stock they were boiled in, 
reserving some o'f it, the pie then covered with 
short paste, egg washed and baked. In serv- 
ing give liberally of the gravy, using the re- 
served sauce to replenish the pie. 

CHICKEN POT PIE Chickens boiled with salt 
pork and a few vegetables till tender, taken up 
and cut as for chicken pie preceding, put into 
a pan; sauce made of the stock, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and chopped 
parsley, poured over the chickens; spoonfuls 
of dumpling mixture dropped close together all 
over it; baked and served. Or the chicken 
when cut up, may be put into another saucepan, 
covered with the sauce, dumplings put all over 
it, lid put on, and the dumplings cooked by 
thus having the sauce boiled round them. 



THE CULINARi' HANDBOOK. 



47 



CHICKEN SAUTE WITH RISSOTO Young 
chickens fried in joints, of a light color with 
mushrooms, taken up, gravy made in the pan 
they were fried in, strained over the chicken 



breast resting on a fancy crouton flanked with 
a slice of the tongue, Supreme sauce poured 
over the chicken, garnished with button mush- 
rooms, turned truffles, cocks-combs and kernels. 



in a sautoir, simmered till done, seasoned with SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH RICE, 



SAUCE PERIGUEUX The supreme pre- 
pared as in the preceding; served, a bed of dry 
boiled rice, breast of chicken masked with Su- 
pr6me sauce on top, flanked with two slices of 
the tongue, and Pe"rigueux sauce poured around, 
simmered till rice is well cooked, adding more STEWED CHICKEN, TURKISH STYLE 



salt, pepper and a glass of sherry wine. Ris- 
soto made by cutting some ham fat into small 
dice and frying it with minced onion in a sau- 
toir, little curry powder added, then rice, 
moistened with white stock, lid put on and 



stock if required. Served, the chicken in sauce 
in the center of the dish, flanked with small 
domes of rissoto formed by filling small molds 
and turning them out for each order. 
SMALL CHICKEN PIES, FRENCH STYLE 
Boiled tender chickens, the stock well re- 
duced till of a full flavor, meat taken from the 
chickens, cut into flakes of an even size; thick 
sauce made of the stock, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley, poured 
to the chicken. Puff paste cut out with large 
circular cutter, egg washed and baked; when 
done the paste split, the lower half covered 



Young chickens boiled whole with a rack of 
mutton, (the part that is under the shoulder) in 
white stock; when the chicken is not quite done 
it is taken up and drained, placed in a sautoir 
with butter and sliced onions and fried a golden 
color, then taken up and cut into joints, the 
onions removed and washed rice put into the 
sautoir, moistened with the stock the chicken 
and mutton was boiled in, cooked till dry and 
tender, sauce made of the remaining stock sea- 
soned with a little cinnamon; served, a bed of 
the rice, a chop and joint of the chicken rest- 
ing on it, with the sauce poured over and 
around. 



with the chicken meat in sauce, top put on; 
served surrounded with small balls of potatoes CHICKEN WITH RICE, MALTESE STYLE 
steamed, then moistened with MSitre D'Hotel Young chickens roasted whole not quite 

done, then jointed, then braised for a few min- 
utes with minced onions, garlic, and a few 
cloves, then one part of tomato sauce and two 
parts of white stock is added to the chickens, 
and when boiled up, washed rice is added and 
the whole simmered till the rice is tender; 



butter. 

CUTLETS OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- 
TABLES Spring chickens should be used- 
boiled not quite done in white stock, then 
allowed to become cold, the breasts and legs 
then taken off, making four cutlets to each 
chicken, leaving the leg and wing bones a little 
long and scraping the same, so that it resem- 



served, a bed of rice with joint of chicken on 
top and sauce Trianon poured around. 



bles a chop bone; seasoned with salt and ROAST CHICKEN, OYSTER SAUCE Young 



pepper, breaded and fried; served surrounded 
with Julienne vegetables mixed into Hollandaise 
sauce. 

FRIED FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Neat 
shaped pieces of cold fricasseed chicken with 
the sauce adhering, rolled in bread crumbs, 
then breaded and fried; served with a white 
Italian sauce poured around. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES 
The chickens jointed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, placed in a sautoir with olive oil, pars- 
ley , some small onions and a clove of garlic, 
lid placed on and fried or simmered in their 



chickens drawn, singed, washed, wiped dry, 
filled with a stuffing made of blanched and 
chopped oysters, chopped parsley, fresh bread 
crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a dash of 
anchovy essence, trussed, roasted and basted 
till tender; served with some of the stuffing 
underneath and oyster sauce poured around; 
made by blanching the oysters, then cutting 
them into neat pieces, saute"eing them with 
butter and fine herbs; sauce made of the liquor 
from the blanching, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and a dash of anchovy essence, the saute'ed 
oysters and herbs then added. 



own steam till tender, taken up and gravy made STEWED CHICKEN, SPANISH STYLE 



in the-safltoir they were stewed in; served, the 
chicken with some gravy over it, garnished with 
fried slices of tomatoes sprinkled with parsley 
dust. 

SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH TOU- 
LOUSE RAGOUT Breasts of young chickens 
that have been boiled whole, so that their shape 
is retained; skinned and trimmed to a pear 



Cold boiled chicken cut into joints, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and mixed ground spices, 
saute'ed in olive oil with minced shallots, garlic 
and chopped parsley; when colored, the surplus 
oil poured off, and Espagnole sauce added, 
simmered a few minutes; served with the sauce 
and garnished with slices of hard boiled (hot) 
eggs. 



shape, then saute'ed lightly in butter, taken up CHICKEN STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS, 

and placed into a Supreme sauce and simmered MADEIRA SAUCE Chickens drawn, singed 

gently for a few minutes; slices of cooked and washed, then boiled till tender in white 

smoked tongue trimmed to a pear shape and stock, taken up, cooled, stuffed with chestnut 

heated with a little butter; served, the chicken forcemeat, trussed, roasted quickly, being bast- 



4 8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ed with butter and flour, served with a rich 
Madeira sauce poured around. 
CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUT PUREE AND 
VEGETABLES Cold roast chickens cut into 
joints and trimmed, bone removed and its place 
filled with a stiff pure"e of chestnuts moistened 
with a little cream, together with the grated 
rind of a lemon, the stuffed joints then dipped 



rolled in flour, fried a golden brown with butter, 
placed into a sautoir, brown sauce made of the 
stock they were boiled in, strained over the 
fried chicken, simmered till tender, the cooked 
vegetables cut into large dice, mixed with 
cooked green peas, moistened with gravy and 
kept hot in it; served, the chicken in sauce sur- 
rounded with the vegetables. 



in limpid aspic jelly and allowed to set, then BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI- 

Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and wiped, 
then steamed for an hour, taken up, cut into 
joints, placed in a safltoir with vegetables and 
spices, moistened with Madeira sauce, lid put 
on, sautoir placed in hot oven and the chicken 
braised till tender, then taken up into another 
sautoir and the braise strained over them; 
macaroni in inch lengths boiled in stock with 
an onion; when done, drained, sprinkled with 
Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley; served, 
the chicken in sauce surrounded with the mac- 
aroni. 

BROILED CHICKEN, HUNTER'S STYLE 
Spring chickens singed, split down the back, 
backbone and breastbone removed, steeped for 
an hour in a mixture of olive oil, minced onions, 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper and lemon juice, 
taken up, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, broiled 
well done; served with sauce Chasseur poured 



decorated with a piping of Ravigote butter; 
served, a cold dish covered with crisp lettuce 
leaves, at the ends a triangular shape of mace- 
doine of vegetables mixed with salad cream, 
the chicken joints resting on the salad, and 
tartar sauce in the center. 

ROAST CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS 
AND BREAD SAUCE- Young chickens drawn, 
singed, washed, trussed with slices of bacon 
tied over the breast, roasted and basted, and 
when nearly done the bacon removed and the 
breast browned; served with bread sauce at 
one end of the dish, saute"ed mushrooms in 
sauce as a border, also a garnish of fresh crisp 
watercress. 

CHICKENS, MARYLAND STYLE Spring 
chickens singed, split down the back, the breast 
bone and back bone removed, left in halves for 
restaurant, and the leg and breast separated 



, , around, and garnished with lemon and parsley, 
for hotel orders, makmg four portions of each EpIGRAMME K QF CHICKENi TO MATO 

SAUCE Young chickens singed, drawn, 
washed and wiped, blanched, taken up and 
separated into four joints, the breast and under 
breast seasoned with salt and pepper, then 
breaded, arranged in a buttered safltoir, roasted 
and basted till tender and brown, the legs 
boned, then filled with chicken forcemeat, 
braised and glazed; served, a fancy crouton in 
center of dish with a glazed leg and browned 



chicken; seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped 
in beaten eggs, then fresh bread crumbs, ar- 
ranged in baking pan with slices of bacon, 
brushed with melted butter, roasted and basted 
with the bacon fat till done; served, the chick- 
en resting on a corn fritter, flanked with two 
slices of the bacon, and a ladle of Bechamel 
sauce poured around. 

BOILED CHICKEN WITH SALT PORK. 
PARSLEY SAUCE Small chickens about two 
pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed 



breast resting on either side, and a rich tomato 
sauce poured around. 



and put to boil with a piece of salt pork, an BLANCHED CHICKEN WITH VELOUTE 



onion stuck with cloves, carrot and celery; 
when tender, taken up, the breasts and legs 
carefully removed, backbone and trimmings 
thrown back into the stock, the joints kept hot 
in white stock, the sauce made of the liquor 
they were boiled in; served, a breast or leg 
and under breast flanked with a slice of the 
pork, and the sauce poured around. 

FRIED CHICKEN IN BATTER, TOMATO 
SAUCE Spring chickens blanched whole, 
then separated (not cut) into four joints, steeped 
for an hour in a mixture of chopped parsley, 
salt, pepper, minced shallots, lemon juice and 
olive oil, then taken up and wiped, dipped into 
a batter, fried in hot fat; served with tomato 
sauce poured around. 

HARICOT OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- 
TABLES Chickens singed, drawn and washed, 



SAUCE Young white fleshed chickens singed 
drawn, washed, trussed with a piece of butter 
size of an egg mixed with the juice of a lemon 
and a seasoning of salt and pepper in the inside 
of each; arranged in a sautoir with slices of 
lemon and fat bacon, moistened with a little 
white stock, lid put on, steamed in this way till 
tender; served, masked with Ve'loute 1 sauce, 
and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
MATELOTE OF CHICKEN Young chickens 
singed, drawn, washed, simmered for half an 
hour in white stock, taken up, jointed, put into 
Ve'loute' sauce with a glass of white wine, sim- 
mered till tender, then is added small white 
onions, balls of carrot and turnip (some use 
parsnip) each of which has been boiled in con- 
somme with a pincn of sugar; served, the 
chicken in sauce, garnished with vegetables. 



then boiled whole with carrots, turnips and CHICKEN SAUTE WITH MUSHROOMS 
onions; when nearly done taken up and cut Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, cut 
into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



fried in oil with herbs and garlic, when brown, 
taken up and placed into a safitoir, button 
mushrooms then fried in the oil, taken up and 
put with the chickens, surplus oil then poured 
off, flour added to the pan, stirred, moistened 
with chicken stock and Madeira wine, boiled 
up, skimmed, strained over the chickens, which 
are then simmered till tender; served garnished 
with the mushrooms (called, CHICKEN a la 
MARENGO). 

CHICKEN STUFFED AND STEWED, SAUCE 
MILANAISE Young chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, filled with a stuffing made of grated 
lean ham, chopped hard boiled eggs, fresh 
bread crumbs, chopped parsley, minced shal- 
lots, juice of a lemon, and a seasoning of thyme, 
trussed, arranged in a sautoir, covered with 
white stock, lid placed on, simmered and basted 
till tender; served in joints with some of the 
stuffing underneath, and Milanaise sauce poured 
around. 

FRIED CHICKEN WITH CUCUMBER 
PUREE Spring chickens singed, split down 
the back, separated into four joints, backbone 
and breastbone removed, blanched in white 
stock for a few minutes, then taken up and 
coated with thick cucumber sauce, rolled in 
bread crumbs, then breaded, fried; served sur- 
rounded with a puree of cucumbers. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH DUMPLINGS 
Young chickens singed, drawn, washed and 
jointed, arranged in saucepan with carrot, 
onion, celery and turnip, moistened with white 
stock, simmered till tender, taken up, sauce 
made of the stock, the vegetables rubbed 
through a sieve into the finished sauce, dump- 
lings steamed; served, the chicken in center of 
dish, dumpling at each end, sauce poured over 
the whole, sprinkled with parsley dust. 

FRIED CHICKEN, INDIAN STYLE Spring 
chickens blanched whole, then jointed, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and rubbed with curry 
powder, fried brown in butter; served with a 
garnish of stewed onions. 

BRAISED FILLETS OF CHICKEN, HAN- 
OVER SAUCE Old fowls singed, drawn, 
washed, steamed for an hour, then cut into 
fillets, arranged in a sautoir with spices and 
vegetables, moistened with consomme 1 , braised 
till tender and the consomme' has reduced to 
half glaze, fillets taken up into another sautoir, 
the braise strained into an Hanover sauce and 
poured over the chicken; served with it and 
garnished with fancy croutons. 

CHICKEN CURRIED, WITH RICE Young 
chickens singed, drawn, washed, boiled for an 
hour in white stock, taken up, drained, cut into 
joints, seasoned with salt, rolled in flour, fried 
brown in butter with sliced onions and a clove 
of garlic, chicken then taken up and placed in- 
to a sa-utoir, sprinkled with curry powder and 
flour, shook together, moistened with the 
strained stock they were boiled in, simmered 



till tender, with the addition of a grated green 
apple and the juice of a lemon; served in the 
center of a border of dry boiled rice. 

BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN WITH TRUF- 
FLES Young white chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, arranged in a sautoir with slices of fat 
bacon and some lemon juice, moistened with 
white stock, lid put on and simmered till tender, 
taken up and cut into joints, placed into another 
sautoir, bacon and grease removed, Be'chamel 
sauce then poured in, boiled up, skimmed, 
strained over the chickens; served with it, 
sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. 

SPITCHCOCKED CHICKEN, CRAPAUDINE 
SAUCE Spring chickens singed, split, washed, 
backbone and breastbone removed, trussed out 
like a frog, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in olive oil, broiled well done; served on 
toast with crapaudine sauce poured around, 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH RICE Young 
chickens singed, split, jointed, fried with olive 
oil in a saiitoir; when brown, surplus oil poured 
off, minced green peppers and onions with a 
clove of garlic (crushed) then added and fried a 
little more, lightly sprinkled with flour, shook 
together, moistened with consomme, lid placed 
on and simmered till tender and glazy, then is 
added some slices of pimentoes and chutney 
with a glass of Madeira wine, boiled up; served 
within a border of dry. boiled rice that has been 
very slightly flavored and colored with curry. 

STEWED CHICKEN, MEXICAN STYLE 
Young chickens singed, split, jointed, fried 
with olive oil in a sautoir till brown, taken up 
in another sautoir, ham and garlic then fried 
in the oil of a light color, surplus oil poured off 
the onions, etc., then moistened with equal 
parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces, seasoned 
with thyme, sage, marjoram and sweet pepper, 
simmered for half an hour, skimmed, strained 
over the chickens which are then simmered till 
tender; raw tomatoes peeled and the seeds re- 
moved, cut into pieces and stewed down thick 
with chili sauce; served, the chicken in sauce 
with fancy croutons at ends of dish, garnished 
at the sides with the tomato and chili mixture. 

BRAISED CHICKENS WITH GREEN PEP- 
PERS Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
filled with a stuffing made by boiling yellow 
corn meal with chicken stock to mush; when 
done, mixed with fresh grated breadcrumbs, 
parmesan cheese, butter, salt and pepper, 
trussed with slices of bacon tied over the breast, 
arranged in a safitoir with onions, carrot, pars- 
ley, bay leaves, cloves and a crushed clove of 
garlic, moistened with consomme 1 , braised till 
tender and glazy, taken up, braise strained 
and skimmed, then added to some Espagnole 
sauce containing green peppers sliced, and a 
seasoning of curry powder; served, the chick- 
ens in portions with stuffing underneath, sauce 
poured over, garnished with the peppers. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BOILED CHICKEN WITH VEGETABLES, 
ALLEMANDE SAUCE Old fowls singed, 
drawn, washed and trussed, put into saucepan 
with carrot, celery and onions, covered with 
salted water, lid put on, saucepan then placed 
in hot oven, chickens simmered till tender 
(about three hours), taken up, Allemande sauce 
made from the remaining stock; small balls of 
carrot simmered in consomme till tender, a can 
each of lima beans and flageolets opened and 
washed, then mixed with the carrot balls, sea- 
soned with salt, sugar and red pepper; served, 
the chicken in joints with sauce poured over, 
and garnished with the mixed vegetables drained 
out of the consomme'. 

BOILED LARDED CHICKEN WITH MAC- 
ARONI Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, 
the breasts larded, trussed, arranged in sauce- 
pan with carrot, onions and celery, covered 
with salted water, lid put on, simmered in hot 
oven till tender; a rich yellow sauce made from 
the reduced liquor, macaroni broken in inch 
lengths and boiled in salted water till done, 
taken up, drained, seasoned with paprika, par- 
mesan cheese and a little of the sauce for the 
chickens; served, the birds in joints with the 
sauce poured over and sprinkled with parsley 
dust, garnished with the macaroni. 

STEWED CHICKENS WITH ESTRAGON 
Old fowls singed, drawn, jointed, washed, put 
into a sautoir with some fat from the top of the 
stock pot, a few veal trimmings, a bunch of 
tarragon and some sherry wine, covered with 
white stock, lid put on and simmered in a hot 
oven till tender, then taken up into another 
sautoir, the remaining stock strained, skimmed, 
and added to a rich Poulette sauce containing 
chopped tarragon leaves; served, the chicken 
covered with the sauce and garnished with 
slices of hard boiled (hot) eggs. 

BRAISED CHICKENS WITH VEGETABLES 
Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, the breasts 
larded, trussed, arranged in saucepan with 
some bacon trimmings, spices and vegetables, 
moistened with white stock and Madeira sauce 
in equal parts, lid put on, simmered in hot 
oven till tender, taken up, the braise strained 
and skimmed, then poured over the chickens; 
cans of macedoines opened and washed, then 
kept hot in consomme"; served, the chickens in 
joints with the sauce over, garnished with the 
vegetables drained from the consomme". 

BRAISED CHICKENS WITH MUSHROOMS 
Old fowls prepared, bacon tied over the 
breast, arranged in a sautoir with vegetables 
and spices, moistened with consomme, lid put 
on, then braised till tender and glazy, taken up, 
braise skimmed, strained and added to button 
mushrooms that have been sauteed with butter 
and then mixed into Be"chamel sauce; served, 
the glazed pieces of chicken resting on neat 
shaped pieces of toast surrounded with the 
mushrooms in sauce. 



CHAUDFROID OF CHICKEN Spring chick- 
ens a pound and a half each in weight, singed, 
drawn, washed, trussed, wrapped in buttered 
paper, roasted without browning, taken up and 
allowed to cool in the paper, then separated 
into four joints, neatly trimmed; equal parts of 
aspic jelly and Poulette sauce made warm 
enough to mix, then stirred surrounded with 
broken ice till thick, the chicken then dipped 
into it, then arranged on a baking sheet to set; 
when set, decorate them with slices of truffles; 
the remaining sauce filled into timbale molds 
that have been lined with aspic jelly and set; 
served, the chicken joint resting on a crouton 
of aspic jelly, with the timbale turned out on 
the end of the chicken, the other end garnished 
with watercress. 

CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN WITH 
STRING BEANS Cold cooked chicken three- 
fifths; lean cooked ham and fresh grated bread 
crumbs each one-fifth; the meats cut into very 
small squares, mixed with the crumbs together 
with some chopped chervil, capers and a sea- 
soning of tarragon vinegar, salt and red pepper; 
moistened with stock and beaten raw eggs; 
filled into buttered molds within half an inch 
of the top, lids put on and steamed for an hour; 
allow them to slightly cool before turning out; 
served, in slices surrounded with French string 
beans (haricots verts) taken from the cans; 
washed, then heated in Veloute" sauce. 

DEVILLED CHICKEN LEGS WITH BACON 
Skinned tender chicken legs, scored, laid for 
an hour in a mixture of olive oil, Worcester- 
shire sauce, lemon juice, red pepper and an- 
chovy essence, then taken up and slowly 
broiled; served resting on a crouton, garnished 
with strips of bacon, and some sauce Diable. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT White meat of 
cooked chicken three parts; white bread soaked 
in chicken stock, then squeezed dry, one part; 
pounded together to a paste with two ounces of 
outter to each pound of meat, seasoned with 
salti pepper, nutmeg and a little lemon juice, 
then rubbed through a fine sieve and mixed to 
a stiff consistency with egg yolks and cold 
Ve"loute" sauce. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT BALLS CURRIED, 
WITH RICE Balls of the preceding force- 
meat poached in a good curry sauce; served 
with it, being arranged on the serving dish 
alternately with small molds of dry boiled rice. 

FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH ASPARAGUS 
POINTS Spring chickens one and a half 
pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed, 
boiled just done, taken up, cooled, skinned, 
separated into four joints neatly trimmed, re- 
heated in a rich Villeroi sauce; served masked 
with it, garnished with asparagus points sea- 
soned with butter. 

CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH GREEN PEAS 
Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
steamed not quite done, taken up, cooled, skin- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 51 

ned, separated into four joints, seasoned with spoons; poached in white stock till they float, 

salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cooling Vil- taken up and rolled in fried sifted bread crumbs; 

leroi sauce, then in bread crumbs, then breaded served surrounded with button mushrooms in 

and arranged in a buttered baking pan, roasted Ve'loute' sauce. 

and basted till brown and frothy; served sur- RISSOLES OF CHICKEN The salpicon as 

rounded with green peas moistened with con- given for "Kromeskies" when cold, cut out 

somme and butter. with a circular cutter, two sheets of puff paste 

SCALLOPED CHICKEN Cold cooked chicken rolled out thin, the chicken placed over one 

meat cut into thin slices, moistened with Alle- sheet, covered with the other, stamped out with 

mande sauce, filled into scallop shells or oval a fancy edged cutter, ananged on a baking 

deep dishes, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs sheet, brushed over with egg wash and baked, 

mixed with Parmesan cheese, salt, red pepper SAUTE OF CHICKEN WITH BOUCHEES 

and nutmeg, then with melted butter, arranged Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, then 

on a baking sheet, heated and browned; served steamed for five minutes, then separated into 

in the shell or dish, garnished with watercress. four joints neatly trimmed, scraping the little 

CHICKEN KROMESKIES, SAUCE PERI- meat off the wing and leg shanks to form 
GUEUX Cooked chicken and tongue, button handles; seasoned with salt, pepper and pow- 
mushrooms and truffles all cut into very small dered thyme, fried brown with butter, then put 
squares and boiled down thick in a rich Ve'loute' into Madeira sauce and simmered till tender; 
sauce, a liaison of egg yolks and cream added served, resting against a crouton with frills on 
just at the finish, then turned into a buttered the shanks, sauce poured over the meat, gar- 
shallow pan, smoothed with a palette knife, nished with very small patties filled with 
covered with buttered paper and allowed to salpicon. 

become cold, then cut into even sized pieces, VOL-AU-VENT OF CHICKEN WITH QUE- 

formed to the shape of long corks, wrapped NELLES Large patty shells with separate 

round with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon or covers filled with a salpicon of chicken, cover 

udder, pinned with a toothpick, dipped into then placed on, served with Madeira sauce 

batter and fried, toothpick then removed; poured under, and garnished with small 

served with Perigueux sauce. poached chicken quenelles. 

SALPICON OF CHICKEN WITH POTATOES ROAST BONED CHICKEN Large old fowls 

Cooked chicken, tongue, mushrooms and and young hens singed, skin laid open down 

truffles cut into small squares and made hot in the back and all bones removed, the old ones 

a rich Poulette sauce; served, the serving dish then laid out flat skin side down, seasoned with 

bordered with mashed potatoes forced from a salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, al- 

bag and fancy tube, sprinkled with parsley ternate strips of larding pork and red cooked 

dust, the salpicon in the center. tongue then placed lengthwise down the center, 

CHICKEN PATTIES, SAUCE SUPREME then covered with forcemeat, the young hen 

The preceding salpicon, but cut smaller, filled without skin laid on top of it so that the white 

into patty shells; served with Supreme sauce meat covers the dark meat of the fowl, outer 

poured around. skin of the fowl then drawn together and sewn 

STEWED CHICKEN, GERMAN STYLE close, leaving no apertures; again sewn up into 
Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and trussed, a cloth, steamed for an hour, cloth then re- 
arranged in a saucepan with grated green ap- moved, roasted and basted till well done and 
pies and onions, covered with stock, simmered tender, taken up, pressed; when cold, string 
in hot oven till tender, Allemande sauce made removed, glazed; served cold in slices with 
from the reduced liquor, noodles boiled in salad. 

stock till tender, taken up and drained, then BOILED BONED CHICKEN Same as the 

mixed with some of the sauce; served, the preceding, but instead of steaming, it is sim- 

chicken masked with sauce, surrounded with mered till tender in white stock containing 

noodles. vegetables; when done, taken up, pressed in 

CHICKEN QUENELLE FORCEMEAT Raw the cloth; when cold, cloth and string removed, 

skinless chicken meat with a little beef suet all adhering grease removed with a hot cloth, it 

minced, pounded together to a paste, rubbed is then glazed; served cold in slices with salad, 

through a fine sieve with some bread that has GALANTINE OF CHICKEN Galantine molds 

been soaked in milk and squeezed dry, seasoned placed in a pan of broken ice, salt and water, 

with finely chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, limpid aspic jelly poured in to coat the sides, 

salt, red pepper and nutmeg, worked to a stiff which is then decorated with peas, strips of 

consistency with raw egg yolks beaten with a tongue, stamped slices of truffle and whites of 

little cream. hard boiled eggs, etc., the decorations then 

CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH MUSH- coated with more limpid jelly and allowed to 

ROOMS The forcemeat preceding made into set, the interior then filled with slices of boned 

balls or shaped like eggs between two dessert chicken and limpid jelly till full, (always see 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



that the slices of chicken are placed on edge, 
NOT LAID FLAT! so that when it is turned 
out, the slices may be removed with the jelly 
adhering merely by the use of a fork). When 
set, the mold is slightly warmed with a hot 
cloth, then turned out, the dish garnished with 
croutons of aspic jelly, cress, crisp shred let- 
tuce, fancy slices of pickled beet, or variations 
at the cook's fancy. 

FRIED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH CORN 
FRITTERS Spring chickens singed, drawn, 
washed and simmered barely done, taken up, 
cooled, skinned, breasts removed, seasoned 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, 
rolled in melted butter, then in flour, then in 
beaten eggs and fried in hot fat, taken up and 
drained; served with sauce Supreme poured 
under, and garnished with small corn fritters 
and watercress. 

BREAST OF CHICKEN STEAMED, SAUCE 
SUPREME Spring chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, trussed and steamed till done, taken 
up, breasts removed and skinned, then put into 
Supreme sauce and served with it, garnished 
with kidney beans (flageolets). 

BROILED CHICKEN LEGS WITH GREEN 
PEAS The steamed legs of the preceding re- 
cipe, skinned, then laid for an hour in a mix- 
ture of olive oil, lemon juice, red pepper, salt 
and Worcestershire sauce, then broiled slowly 
to a golden color; served with a frill on the 
shank, resting on a slice of buttered toast, gar- 
nished with French peas made hot in tomato 
sauce. 

FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH ARTI- 
CHOKE BOTTOMS Spring chickens singed, 
split down the back, breastbone and backbone 
removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in flour, then in beaten eggs and fried in hot 
fat till done; artichoke bottoms spread with 
chicken forcemeat arranged in a sautoir, moist- 
ened with a very little consomme', reduced and 
glazed, the chicken served with a little Colbert 
sauce, and garnished with the bottoms. 

FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH HOMINY 
FRITTERS The chickens prepared and fried 
as in the preceding; fine hominy boiled down 
to mush, cooled, cut in shapes, then breaded 
and fried, the chicken served with cream sauce 
and a strip of broiled bacon, garnished with 
the fritters. 

FRIED CHICKEN WITH RICE AND OKRAS 
Cold joints of cooked chicken dipped in thick 
cold tomato sauce, then in bread crumbs, then 
breaded and arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
roasted and basted with butter till brown and 
frothy; rice boiled dry, then mixed with boiled 
fresh or canned okras and a little tomato sauce, 
the chicken served with a little tomato sauce, 
and garnished with small mounds of the rice 
and okras turned out of a timbale mold. 

DEVILLED SPRING CHICKEN WITH 
GREEN PEAS Spring chickens singed, split 



down the back, breastbone and backbone re" 
moved, thigh bone snapped, seasoned, laid for 
an hour in Worcestershire sauce, olive oil, 
tarragon vinegar, chopped chives and chervil, 
taken up, rolled in flour, then in melted butter 
and slowly broiled well done; served with 
Diable sauce, and garnished with French peas 
that have been washed, drained and sauteed in 
butter. 

FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH CARDINAL 
SAUCE Spring chickens singed, split, breast- 
bone and backbone removed, thigh bone snap- 
ped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in 
flour and fried a golden brown with butter; 
served with Cardinal sauce poured under and 
around, garnished with slices of truffles that 
have been stewed in sherry wine. 

STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN, PERI- 
GUEUX SAUCE Breasts of young chickens 
split open and filled with quenelle forcemeat, 
arranged in a safltoir with slices of salt pork, 
white stock and butter, simmered till tender; 
served resting on fancy croutons with perigueux 
sauce. 

STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE RAVIGOTE 
Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, jointed, then 
arranged in a sautoir with nutmeg, lemon, 
celery and sliced onions, moistened with white 
stock, lid put on, simmered in hot oven till 
tender. Chives, parsley, shallots, chervil and 
tarragon shred and blanched, onion rings 
steamed till tender; served, the chicken with 
ravigote sauce poured around, garnished wiih 
rings of onions filled with the blanched herbs. 

STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE PROVENCALE 
Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in flour, sauteed in olive oil with minced shal- 
lots and garlic, taken up into another sautoir 
with sliced tomatoes, moistened with claret 
wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered till ten- 
der, finished with lemon juice ?nd chopped 
parsley; served with the sauce and tomatoes. 

SPRING CHICKEN IN BATTER WITH 
FRIED ONIONS Spring chickens singed, 
split, backbone and breastbone removed, thigh 
bone snapped, blanched in white stock a few 
minutes, taken up and drained, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, 
then dipped in batter and slowly fried in hot 
fat; rings of onions steamed for a few minutes, 
then dipped in milk, then flour, fried crisp in 
hot fat; served as a garnish to the chicken. 

STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH 
CUCUMBERS Breasts of spring chickens 
that have been steamed whole not quite done, 
trimmed, spread with chicken forcemeat, then 
dipped in beaten eggs, then sprinkled with 
grated lean cooked ham, minced truffle peelings 
and breadcrumbs, arranged in a baking pan, 
moistened with a little melted butter, slowly 
heated and browned; served garnished with a 
pure"e of cucumbers. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



53 



CHICKEN SAUSAGES, SAUCE HOLLAN- shred and blanched, both mixed and simmered 
DAISE Raw chicken meat without skin three- in a rich Ve"lout6 sauce; served on toast, 
fifths, cooked chicken meat one-fifth, cooked MINCED CHICKEN WITH POACHED EGG 
tongue and mushrooms mixed one-fifth, all 
minced together, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg and powdered thyme, formed into sau- 
sage shapes, lightly breaded, arranged in bak- 
ing pan with bacon trimmings and butter, 



Cold cooked chicken without skin cut into 
very small squares, mixed into and heated with 
Be'chamel sauce; served on toast with a trim- 
med poached egg on top, the yolk sprinkled 
with parsley dust, 
slowly roasted and basted till done; served CHICKEN HASH WITH STUFFED PEP- 



with Hollandaise sauce. 

SOUFFLES OF CHICKEN Breasts of raw 
chicken pounded to a paste, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve and mixed with separately 
beaten whites and yolks of eggs, seasoned with 
butter, cream, salt, red pepper, nutmeg and 
lemon juice, filled into fancy paper cases, the 



PERS Small green peppers split, cleaned and 
blanched, filled with chicken forcemeat, ar- 
ranged in a sautoir, moistened with a little 
consomme 1 , lid put on and simmered till done; 
the minced chicken on toast of the preceding 
recipe served garnished with the stuffed 
peppers. 



top sprinkled with sifted bread crumbs and CHICKEN FRITTERS, PIQUANTE SAUCE 
melted butter, slowly baked, the served imme- Cold roast tender chicken in joints, laid for 
diately. an hour in vinegar with chopped chives, taken 

CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH TRUFFLES, up , breaded and fried; served with Piquante 
SAUCE SUPREME Chicken quenelle force- sauce. 

meat shaped like eggs between two spoons, CHICKEN PANADA WITH EGGS ON 
poached in seasoned white stock, taken up and 
drained, then dipped in Supreme sauce; served 
with it, arranged on serving dish in fours, two 
of them sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. 



CANNELON OF CHICKEN, TARTAR SAUCE 
Cannelon case made of puff paste (see Can- 
nelons) filled with chicken forcemeat, slowly 



TOAST Cold cooked chicken without skin 
minced and pounded to a paste, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity of 
fresh bread crumbs, moistened with cream, 
made hot; served heaped high on toast with a 
trimmed poached egg on top. 



heated through; served with tartar sauce, gar- p O TTED CHICKEN FOR SANDWICHES 

Two parts of cold cooked chicken meat without 
skin, one part cooked ham, one part butter, the 
meat minced and pounded to a paste with the 
butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve, sea- 
soned with mace, salt, red pepper and nutmeg, 
packed into small jars, sealed with melted but- 
ter, and stored away in ice box for use. 
TIMBALES OF CHICKEN WITH FORCE- 
MEAT BALLS Timbale molds lined with a 
quenelle forcemeat, then filled with scallops of 
braised chicken and slices of mushrooms and 
truffles, the bottom then covered with force- 
meat, molds arranged in a baking pan contain- 
ing a little water, baked till set; served turned 
out with sauce Bressoise poured around, and 
garnished with small balls of poached force- 
meat. 



nished with watercress. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FRIED, TOMATO 
SAUCE Chicken forcemeat rolled with pointed 
ends size of a finger, resembling a cigar in 
shape, breaded, fried; served with tomato 
sauce. 

SAUT6 OF CHICKEN WITH RICE AND 
LEEKS Young chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
then lightly sauteed with minced onions and 
ham in butter, taken up into a sautoir, sauce 
made in the pan they were fried in, strained 
over the chickens, simmered till tender, rice 
boiled dry; then mixed with some of the sauce; 
served as a border to the chicken, which is 
further garnished with fried shredded leeks. 

CHICKEN SAUTE WITH POTATO BALLS 



Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, CHICKEN SAUTE WITH OYSTERS Large 



steamed for five minutes, then taken up and 
separated into four neat joints, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, fried with butter to a golden 
color; balls scooped out of raw potatoes steamed 
nearly done, then fried in butter like the chick- 
ens, both of which are then sprinkled with fine 
parsley; served, the joints dipped in hot Col- 
bert sauce surrounded with the potatoes. 

CROUSTADES OF CHICKEN Fancy crofls- 
tades made of paste filled with a salpifon of 
chicken; garnished with watercress. 

CHICKEN HASH WITH PEPPERS ON 
TOAST Cold cooked chicken without skin 
cut into very small squares, green peppers 



oysters blanched and drained; young chickens 
singed, drawn, blanched, jointed, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in butter, 
taken up into a sautoir, gravy made in the pan 
they were fried in, using stock and the strained 
oyster liquor, boiled up and skimmed, then 
strained over the chicken, which is now sim* 
mered till tender; the oysters sprinkled with 
parsley and sauteed in butter for each order; 
served, the chicken in joints garnished with tha 
oysters saute'es. 

CAPILOTADE OF CHICKEN Cold roast 
chickens cut into neatly trimmed joints, ar- 
ranged in a sautoir, covered with a brown 



54 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

Italian sauce, simmered in it for fifteen minutes .STEWED CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MUSH- 

then served garnished with fancy croutons. ROOMS The preceding stew placed in the 

COLLOPS OF CHICKEN WITH MACAR- center of dish without toast, and served sur- 

ONI Cold cooked chicken without skin cut rounded with button mushrooms that have been 

into thin slices about the size of a quarter of a saute"ed in butter and sprinkled with chopped 

dollar, made hot in a rich Bechamel sauce; chervil. 

macaroni broken into inch lengths, boiled in CHICKEN LIVERS IN CASES The livers 

boiling salted water, taken up and drained, sautees above cut in dice, filled into fancy 

then mixed with Parmesan cheese and a little paper cases, that have been lined with chicken 

Bechamel sauce; served, the macaroni as a forcemeat and heated; mushrooms and truffles 

border sprinkled with parsley dust, the chicken in dice to be added to the livers, 

piled high in the center, garnished with strips CHICKEN LIVER FORCE MEAT Equal 

of cooked red tongue. weight of blanched chicken livers and lean 

HASHED CHICKEN AND HAM WITH RICE cooked ham with two ounces of butter to each 

Chicken cut the same as in the preceding pound of meat *he meat minced, pounded to a 

recipe, thin slices of lean cooked ham cut out paste, rubbed through a fine sieve, then thor- 

with a column cutter, both mixed and made oughly incorporated with the butter, together 

hot in Veloute" sauce. Rice washed and then with a little puree of mushrooms and truffles, 

boiled in chicken broth till moisture is all gone seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chop- 

and the grains soft, then mixed with a liaison P e( i parsley, then stored for use. 

of egg yolks and Ve-loute" sauce, seasoned with BROCHETTEOR CROUSTADES OF CHICK- 

red pepper and nutmeg; served, the rice as a EN LIVERS For recipes of which see "BRO- 

border, the ham and chicken in sauce piled CHETTE" and "CROUSTADE". 

high in the center. OMELET OF CHICKEN LIVERS The livers 

GIBLET AND POTATO PIE Gizzards, hearts, blanched then cut in slices with mushrooms, 

livers, necks and second joints of the wings of saute"ed in butter, moistened with wine and 

chickens stewed tender with pieces of salt pork, brown sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and 

then put in a baking pan with slices of hard lemon juice, sprinkled with chopped parsley, 

boiled eggs, chopped parsley and a glass of enclosed within a savory omelet; served with 

sherry wine, (having plenty of sauce) the pie more of the livers in sauce poured around. 

then covered three-quarters of an inch thick ROAST CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST 

with mashed potatoes, edges crimped, washed Blanched chicken livers masked all over with 

over with beaten egg and baked. "chicken liver forcemeat" then wrapped in 

GIBLET PIE Pie pans lined on the sides with buttered paper, arranged in a baking pan and 

thin short paste, filled with the stewed giblets baked for fifteen minutes, taken up, paper re- 

of the preceding recipe, covered with short moved; served on toast with Madeira sauce 

paste, egg washed and baked. poured around. 

GIBLET POT PIE The preceding stewed gib. RAGOUT OF CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH 
lets either kept hot in the sautoir and dump- POTATO CROQUETTES Livers, hearts, 
lings dropped over it, lid put on and simmered gizzards, pieces of salt pork and button mush- 
till dumplings are done; or the stew turned into rooms sauteed, then mixed with Madeira sauce, 
a baking pan, the dumplings dropped close placed in center of dish garnished with small 
together all over it, then put in oven till dump- potato croquettes, 
lings are done. GIBLET SAUCE Gizzards, hearts and necks 

STEWED CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH RI3E boiled till tender with an onion, livers blanched, 

Hearts, gizzards, livers, necks and second then sauteed with butter, taken up, sauce made 

joints of the wings of chickens, also small in the pan they were sautued in with the stock 

pieces of raw salt pork and minced onions, all from the giblets; livers, hearts and meat from 

fried lightly with butter, then sprinkled with the gizzards then cut fine and mixed into the 

flour, shook together, moistened with stock, sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 

simmered till tender, seasoned with salt, pepper finished with sherry wine and chopped parsley. 

and a bunch of sweet herbs (which are to be CHICKEN GIBLET SOUP Gizzards, hearts, 

removed when done); served in the center of a ' necks and wings boiled till tender with some 

border of dry boiled rice, or barley, or oatmeal. roast fowl bones in chicken stock, hearts and 

SAUTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST gizzards then taken up and cut into dice to- 
The livers with gall removed, washed and gether with some sauteed livers, roux made and 
wiped, then sauteed with minced onions in moistened with the stock, boiled up and skim- 
butter, taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with med; washed rice, finely cut carrots, turnips, 
salt, pepper and lemon juice, moistened with and onions then boiled in the soup till tender, 
Madeira wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered then is added the cut meats; finished by sea- 
for a few minutes; served on toast garnished soning with Worcestershire sauce, sherry wine, 
with croutons. salt, pepper and nutmeg. 






THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 55 

PUREE OF CHICKEN Roux made and moist- soned with salt and red pepper, then strained 

ened with chicken stock, cream and almond into another saucepan, containing flowerets of 

milk, when boiling, further thickened with some cooked cauliflower balls of cooked carrot, 

cooked chicken meat that has been pounded pieces of chicken meat, and some poached 

and rubbed through a fine sieve, seasoned with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of them to 

salt, nutmeg and red pepper; small squares of be colored green. 

cooked breast of chicken then added; served PUREE OF CHICKEN WITH TOMATOED 

with small croutons. QUENELLES A puree of chicken soup 

CHICKEN SOUP WITH VEGETABLES strained into another saucepan containing 

Cold roast fowl bones and gravy with some poached quenelles that have had a stiff tomato 

vegetable trimmings boiled in stock till well pure"e worked into the forcemeat; seasoned and 

flavored, roux made and moistened with the served. 

strained stock, boiled up and skimmed, shred- CHICKEN SOUP WITH RICE AND LEEKS 

ded cooked vegetables and shreds of chicken Poultry stock slightly thickened with roux, 

then added and served. plenty of shredded leeks boiled in it with some 

CHICKEN CONSOMME A few veal bones rice; when done and seasoned, pieces of chicken 

and chopped veal trimmings, slices of carrot, meat added. (The Scotch call this soup 

onions, celery, with whole mace, salt, red "COCK-A-LEEKIE"). 

pepper, broken egg shells and beaten whites of CHICKEN SOUP, CREOLE STYLE Raw 

eggs, stirred together with a little broken clean chicken meat cut into small pieces and fried 

ice, then moistened with skimmed and strained with minced onions in olive oil, then little flour 

poultry stock that has had a piece of salt pork added, stirred, moistened with consomme", 

boiled in it, brought slowly to the boil, then boiled up and skimmed, then is added shred 

simmered till clear, strained through a towel; lean ham and green peppers, simmered for half 

small squares of breast of cooked chicken then an hour, then raw peeled and sliced tomatoes 

added, seasoned (but use no wine) and served. together with well washed rice and a bunch of 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH RICE The strained soup herbs is simmered in it till done. 

and skimmed stock in which fowls and a piece CHICKEN SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE 
of salt pork and some vegetables have been Raw chicken meat cut small together with 
boiled, is slightly thickened with corn starch, minced onions fried in butter, flour added and 
dry boiled rice, and pieces of chicken meat stirred, moistened with poultry stock, boiled 
then added, seasoned and served. up and skimmed, then is added a Julienne of 
CHICKEN GUMBO Roast chicken bones. vegetables and a little well washed rice, sim- 
minced onion and some ham knuckle meat fried mered till done, seasoned and served, 
in butter with a few bay leaves and a pod of CHICKEN SOUP, SOUTHERN STYLE Raw 
red pepper, flour then added, moistened with chicken meat cut small, minced onions, shred- 
poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, a half ded green peppers all fried together with butter, 
roasted chicken then added and simmered till little flour then added and stirred, moistened 
tender; chicken then taken up and the stock with poultry stock, seasoned lightly with curry 
strained into another saucepan in which is powder, salt and red pepper, boiled up and 
either canned okra, okra powder, or fresh okra skimmed, then is added equal quantities of lima 
sliced, also some boiled rice and pieces of beans and sugar corn together with half their 
chicken meat; boiled up till greeny and gela- bulk of okras; simmered till done, 
tinous; seasoned and served. CHICKEN SOUP, TURKISH STYLE Shred- 
CREAM OF CHICKEN Some veal bones and ded raw chicken meat, ham and green peppers 
trimmings with a little whole mace, celery and with sliced onions fried together with butter, 
onions are boiled in poultry stock, cold cooked little flour added and stirred, moistened with 
chicken meat pounded, then rubbed through a consomme", boiled up and skimmed, seasoned 
sieve, moistened with the skimmed and strained with si.lt, red pepper and a dash of curry pow- 
stock, boiled up, seasoned with salt, red pepper der, then is added washed rice and tomato 
and nutmeg, then finished with some boiling pure"e equaling half the bulk of the stock; when 
cream. rice is done, served. 

CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH RICE Roux CHICKEN SOUP, ENGLISH STYLE Roux 
made and moistened with strong poultry stock, made, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up 
boiled up and skimmed, little boiling cream and skimmed, then is added a liaison of egg 
then added together with pieces of chicken yolks and cream, when thickened, strained into 
meat and dry boiled rice; seasoned with salt a tureen containing squares of cooked chicken 
and red pepper. meat and chopped chervil, seasoned and served. 
CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH QUENELLES CHICKEN BROTH WITH CUSTARDS 
Roux made and moistened with poultry Good poultry stock seasoned, then lightly thick- 
stock, boiled up and skimmed, then is worked ened with corn starch, strained into a tureen 
into it a liaison of egg yolks and cream; sea- containing a macedoine of vegetables and shapes 



56 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

of custard made by taking twelve yolks of eggs mixed shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned 

and a pint of cold chicken broth seasoned with with French dressing. 

salt and red pepper, thoroughly mixed without CHICKEN SALAD Two parts of mayonnaise 
beating, then poured into buttered pans, and one part of limpid aspic jelly beaten to- 
steamed till set, cut into shapes when cold. gether, individual patty pans or timbale molds 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH ASPARAGUS decorated and lined with the beaten mixture, 

TIPS Same as the preceding, using the shapes then filled with scallops of chicken dressed with 

of custards but substituting asparagus tips for Remoulade sauce, a few capers and slices of 

the macedoine of vegetables. stoned olives, covered with some of the beaten 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH SPRING VEGE- mixture, set till firm, then turned out on to a 
TABLES Strong poultry stock thickened very bed of shredded lettuce garnished with shred- 
lightly with corn starch, seasoned, boiled up ded anchovies and gherkins, 
and skimmed, then further thickened with CHICKEN MAYONNAISE Cold roast chickens 
young tender carrots, turnips, green onions. cut into joints, steeped for an hour in a mixture 
leeks and green cabbage all cut into small dice- of salt - Pepper, olive oil and tarragon vinegar, 
boiled in the stock with a handful of rice til 1 then taken U P and masked with mayonnaise 
done, then is added squares of chicken meat; sauce - served on shred lettuce, garnished with 
seasoned and served. quartered hard boiled eggs, pickled beets and 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH ARTICHOKES stoned olives or pimentoes. 

Strong poultry stock thickened lightly with corn C H c KEN MAYONNAISE Boned roasted 

starch, seasoned, boiled up and skimmed, then chicken, pressed, sliced, coated with mayon- 

further thickened with a liaison of egg yolks naise - served garnished with green peas and 

and cream, strained into a tureen with chicken asparagus points that are dressed with French 

meat and diced artichokes. dressing, and cubes of savory jelly. 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH POACHED EGG CHIFFONADE French term for a mixture of 

Same as "Chicken Broth with Custards" but shredded sorrel, lettuce, chervil and parsley 

substituting a soft poached egg for each plate. J hat 1S us . ed lo P ut in SOU P S a few minutes be- 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH SORREL Strong ^JV^T^! * ^' t r. i- 

.... , . , .. . CHIPOLATA Name of an Italian garnish com- 

poultry stock thickened with a liaison of egg Q{ ^ ^ ^ es ^ 

yolks and cream seasoned, strained into a carrot and chestnuts 

tureen containing boiled vermicelli and stewed p - eces of broiled P bacon and J^ mushrooms ; 

CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES - Strong er winS * * " Ch bf Wn SaUC6 flaV red wUh 

poultry stock thickened with flour and butter, CHIVES A flavoring herb of the onion species 

seasoned with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, grows like the tops o{ spdng onions de Q 

straining it afterwards into a tureen containing in color and yery strong in flavor; such dishes 

boiled noodles, chopped chervil and pieces of as . <civet o{ Rabbiri .. RagO ut of Hare", etc., 

chicken meat. are strongly impregnated with chives 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH ONIONS-Thick- CHOCOLATE -A wholesome, nutritive flesh 

ened poultry stock seasoned, then strained into forming article of food grea tly used in confec- 

a tureen containing very small boiled onions tionerVi icings> cakes> etc . when served as a 

and green peas. drink it is made into a paste with milk then 

CHICKEN SOUP WITH PEAS PUREE- boiling milk added to the consistency of thin 

Fresh green peas boiled with a bunch of green cream allowed to simme r for a few minutes 

mint in chicken stock, thickened lightly with before serving. 

roux, mint then removed, and the soup* rubbed CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE Milk and 

through a fine sieve, boiled up again and skim- sugar brought to the boil in two separate sauce- 

med, seasoned, then strained into a tureen con- panSi then corn starch mixed with milk beaten 

taining chopped chervil and shred lettuce. i nto both, one to be flavored with vanilla, the 

CHICKEN SALAD Tender, juicy cold cooked other to have melted chocolate and a little 

chicken cut into small dice, with an equal quan- butter beaten into it, molds dipped into cold 

tity of hearts of celery, mixed, seasoned with water, the chocolate mixture poured in half 

salt, red pepper, mayonnaise and a dash of way up, then the vanilla used to fill with, set 

tarragon vinegar; a cold serving dish rubbed to cool, turned out, served with sweetened and 

with garlic, covered with crisp, tender, lettuce vanilla flavored cream. 

leaves, salad placed in the center masked with CHOCOLATE CREAM FRITTERS The choc- 
mayonnaise, smoothed, decorated with capers, olate part of the preceding recipe made a little 
beetroot and hard boiled egg. stiffer than for blanc-mange, turned into shal- 

CHICKEN SALAD Round croquettes made of low pans, allowed to set till firm and cold, then 

chicken, ham, tongue, mushrooms and truffles, cut into shapes, double breaded and fried, 

breaded and fried, allowed to become cold, served dusted with powdered sugar and with 

then split in halves and set around a bed of apricot marmalade or sauce poured around. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



57 



CHOCOLATE CAKE One pound each of but- 
ter, powdered sugar and grated chocolate, 
sugar and butter creamed together, chocolate 
dissolved in a pint of milk, then worked into 
the cream with eight yolks of eggs, three-quart- 



just fall off from a spoon; from it is prepared 
"Bell Fritters", "Queen Fritters", "Cream 
Puffs and Eclairs", "Spanish Puffs", "Pra- 
lines", "Croquenbouchees", "Choux Croutons", 
etc.. etc. 



ers of a pound of flour and two teaspoonfuls of CHOW CHOW One gallon each of cut string- 



baking powder and the whipped whites of eight 
eggs then lightly stirred in, poured into but- 
tered and papered pans, slowly baked till done, 
about one hour. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM Three pints of double 
cream whipped stiff, to which is then added 
sugar to taste, one ounce of gelatine, juice of a 
lemon, and half a pound of melted chocolate, 
poured into molds, and sec on ice; the tops of 
molds may be decorated before pouring in the 
cream. 

C H O COLATE ICE CREAM Pure cream 
sugared to taste, half a pound of chocolate to 
the gallon, the chocolate dissolved and mixed 
into some LUKEWARM cream, then strained 



less beans, very small white onions, green 
gherkins and flowerets of cauliflower, two 
pounds of dry mustard, two gallons of white 
wine vinegar, two ounces each of turmeric and 
mustard seed, two pounds of sugar and one pint 
of olive oil. The cauliflower, beans and onions 
boiled separately till tender, the gherkins 
soaked in strong salted water for one day, then 
mixed together and filled into crocks; the vine- 
gar brought to the boil, mustard and turmeric 
mixed and moistened with a little vinegar, then 
stirred into the boiling vinegar; when it begins 
to thicken, the mustard seed, sugar and oil are 
stirred in, poured boiling hot over the vege- 
tables in the crocks, then put away for use. 



into the sweetened cream, flavored slightly with CHUTNEY A table condiment imported from 



anilla, strained into a freezer and frozen. 

CHOCOLATE CUP CUSTARDS Two quarts 
of milk, four ounces of chocolate and one pound 
of sugar mixed and brought to the boil, six 
yolks of eggs and two ounces of corn starch 
worked together with a little milk, the boiling 
mixture stirred into it, put back on the range 
and stirred till it just thickens, then flavored 
with vanilla, poured through a conical strainer 
into cups; when all filled, the cups arranged 
into a baking pan containing a little water 
baked slowly till done, served cold with cream 
poured around. 

CHOCOLATE ICING One pound of sifted 



the East Indies, and purchasable at the grocery 
stores in bottles, may be made as follows: One 
and a half pints of vinegar, two ounces of whole 
ginger bruised, one ounce each of chilies and 
mustard seed, two ounces of salt and twelve 
ounces of sugar all boiled together for three 
quarters of an hour, then strained through a 
hair sieve. Put the strained vinegar to boil 
again with one large onion shredded, one 
crushed clove of garlic, six shallots, two ounces 
of seedless raisins and two pounds of peeled 
and sliced apples, boil until they are quite soft, 
then put into stone jars, tie over with skin or 
parchment paper and keep for use. 



sugar (powdered) and six whites of eggs thor- CIDER Apple juice obtained by pressure, then 
oughly beaten till stiff, then flavored with van- fermented and matured. 



ilia and four ounces of melted chocolate. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING Same mixture as 
given for "Chocolate Cup Custards" baked in 
a pan, served cold with whipped cream, or 
sweetened and flavored plain cream. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING One pound each of 
butter and sugar creamed together, ten egges 
worked into the cream one at a time, fourteen 
ounces of sified flour and two ounces of grated 
chocolate then lightly stirred in, flavored with 
vanilla, poured into buttered molds, steamed 
till done, served hot with sauce. 

CHOCOLATE FLOAT Small cold "Chocolate 
Cup Custards" turned out into deep sauce dish, 
surrounded with a piping of whipped cream 
the cream then decorated with colored win, 
jelly chopped fine. 

CHOUX-PASTE Is the name of a batter made 
of a pint of water, eight ounces of lard or but- 



CINNAMON A spice which may be purchased 
ground or in stick form, used as a flavoring for 
cakes, puddings, liqueurs, cordials, syrups, 
sauces, etc. 

CISCO One of the small fish of the lakes, re- 
sembling in size and appearance the fresh water 
herring. 

FILLETS OF CISCO IN BATTER The fish 
scaled and filleted free from bone, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, dipped into a thin batter, 
fried; served with or without tomato sauce and 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 

BROILED CISCO, LEMON PARSLEY 
SAUCE The fish scaled, drawn, washed, 
wiped and the sides scored, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, rolled in olive oil, then in flour, 
broiled and basted till done; served with mSitre 
d'hotel butter poured over, and garnished with 
lemon and chip potatoes. 



ter. nine ounces of flour and ten eggs. Water CISCO SAUTE, JULIENNE POTATOES 



and lard is brought to the boil, flour then 
added all at once and worked over the fire till 
it is cooked into a smooth paste, allowed then 
to slightly cool, the eggs then beaten in one at 
a time; its consistency must be so that it will 



Prepared as in the preceding recipe, rolled in 
flour, slowly fried a delicate brown with butter, 
served with some of the butter over it, gar- 
nished with Julienne potatoes, lemon and 
parsley. 



THE CULINAEY HANDBOOK. 



CITRIC ACID A crystal obtained from acid 
fruits; used by confectioners and caterers, pop 
and soda water manufacturers. Street vendors 
at the fairs simply dissolve it in water, sweeten 
it, fill it into glasses, place a thin slice of lemon 
in and sell it for lemonade; also flavor it with a 
little oil of raspberry, strawberry, etc., adding 
a drop or two of carmine, and sell it as rasp- 
berryade, strawberryade, etc. 

CITRON A large fruit of the lemon species, 
the peel is blanched, then boiled in syrup and 
subsequently dried; used in cakes, puddings, 
ices, jellies, cordials, liqueurs, etc. 

CITRON CAKE One pound each of butter and 
sugar creamed together, ten eggs then worked 
in one at a time, then a wine glass of brandy, 
one pound of sifted flour, and half a pound of 
shredded citron. 

CLAMS A favorite American shellfish, the 
"Little Neck" clam being the favored kind for 
eating from the shell, the large hard clams for 
soups and chowders, and the soft clam for 
broiling and frying. 

CLAM CHOWDER Salt pork cut into dice and 
fried till light brown. Fish broth and clam 
liquor in equal parts brought to the boil, skim- 
med, sliced onions and potatoes then put in and 
boiled till barely done, then is added the fried 
salt pork and scalded clams cut in dice; sea- 
soned with pepper, ground mace and salt; 
brought to the boil again, and poured to an 
equal quantity of thin white sauce; finished 
with a few rolled crackers and chopped parsley. 

PHILADELPHIA CLAM CHOWDER Like 
the preceding but substituting tomatoes and 
tomato sauce for the white sauce and adding a 
flavor of thyme. 

CLAM BROTH- May be made to order at rest- 
aurants by simply chopping some large clams 
and scalding them in clam liquor, then straining 
into the serving bowl or cup. 

CLAM STEW Plain or with milk or cream; 
generally sold in restaurants by the half or 
dozen (it is customary to give seven and four- 
teen to the half or dozen); scald the clams with 
clam liquor, take off the scum, pour into a 
bowl, add a piece of butter and serve, if for 
plain; if for a milk or cream stew, scald the 
milk or cream separately, pour the clams and 
liquor into the bowl first, then add an equal 
quantity of the milk, season with butter and 
serve with crackers. 

ROAST CLAMS May be either served in the 
shell or on toast. Large clams washed, ar- 
ranged on baking sheet, put in hot oven till 
they open. If served in the shell the top shell 
is removed, the clam separated from the lower, 
little melted butter then placed in each and 
served. If to be served on toast, the toast 
should be cut in strips, buttered, the clams 
placed neatly on it, melted butter brushed over 
them; served with lemon and crackers. 



BROILED CLAMS The soft clam is best for 
this dish, but the ordinary large clam is ser- 
viceable; they should be drained, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter 
then rolled in fresh sifted bread crumbs, broiled; 
served on toast, garnished with lemon and 
watercress. 

FRIED CLAMS Drained, seasoned, dipped in 
melted butter, rolled in sifted bread crumbs, 
then in beaten eggs and again in crumbs; fried 
in clear butter or in hot fat; served garnished 
with lemon and watercress. 

STEAMED CLAMS Large clams scrubbed, 
arranged on the wire false bottom of a fish 
kettle with a little water under them, lid then 
put on, placed over a quick fire; when the 
upper shell is loosened, it is removed, the clam 
separated from the lower, little melted butter 
put in each, served very hot with lemon and 
crackers. 

CLAM FRITTERS Soft clams seasoned, then 
dipped in batter and fried; or large clams 
chopped, then mixed in batter and fried by 
spoonfuls in hot fat; served with a cream sauce 
made with clam liquor. 

SCALLOPED CLAMS Clams scalded and cut 
into neat pieces, sauce made of their liquor, 
the clams mixed in, and either filled into large 
clam or scallop shells, the tops sprinkled with 
sifted crumbs and melted butter, then browned 
in the oven; served in the shell. 

CLAM CROQUETTES Scalded clams cut into 
small neat pieces (not chopped). Thick sauce 
made of the liquor, the cut clams put back 
into it; when thoroughly reheated, poured into 
a buttered shallow pan, smoothed with a knife, 
covered with a sheet of greased paper and 
allowed to become cold and set, then cut in 
even sized pieces, shaped, breaded, fried; 
served with a clam sauce poured around. 

CLAM FORCEMEAT Scalded clams finely 
minced with an equal quantity of canned mush- 
rooms, a little minced onion fried in butter, 
flour added, moistened with the clam and 
mushroom liquor, boiled up, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, little dry mustard, a suspicion of garlic, 
and some chopped parsley; then is added the 
clams and mushrooms, boiled up slowly for ten 
minutes, remove and work in a few beaten egg 
yolks till of a stiff consistency, put away to cool 
for use. 

FRICASSEE OF CLAMS The clams scalded 
in their own liquor, then strained, equal amount 
of milk and liquor boiled separately, flour and 
butter in a saucepan seasoned with red pepper 
and a little nutmeg moistened with the liquor, 
then finished to the desired consistency with 
the boiling milk; when boiled up, finished with 
a few beaten yolks of eggs, the clams cut either 
in halves if small, or in neat pieces if large, 
added to the sauce; served either on toast, or 
with a border of fancy mashed potatoes, or in 
scallop shells. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 59 

CLAM SOUP CREAM OF CLAMS Same as guest. The foreign term for this method of 

the preceding recipe, but having the soup of cooking eggs is (OEUFS A LA COCOTTE). 

the consistency of thin cream; when serving, a COCHINEAL Name of an insect obtained 

sprinkling of chopped parsley or celery leaves chiefly from tha shores of PH ONOECIA; used 

BE C AR e EF h U P L a NOT TO LET THE SOUP ***" * "* "** * 



. COCHON - A " times on bills of 

IT BAC TO SMOOTH *** tO desi g nate PIG - such as "P ied da **< tf 

" 



ro , 

CLARET-Name of a Southern French wine so COCK E-LEEKIE-Name gwen by the Scotch 

called abroad on account of its color which is f? 1 * for 8OU P ! Q * hich / cock fowl and 

distinctive. Used generally as a common din- leeks orm the P*P* ingredients. 

ner wine, although its best brands cannot be COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP-Young fowls (cocks 

too well eulogised. Its use in cookery is largely or hens > Cashed, trussed and lightly roasted, 

for flavoring sauces, soups, braising meats and then P ut into a white stock of vea * or chicken 

fish and for ices and jellies. Wlth some white P arts of shredded leeks, salt, 

CLOVES Name of a valuable spice obtained and a few whole peppers; when the fowls are 

from the buds of the tree. Used in its whole nearl y done - the ? are taken U P- the meat P'cked 

form for seasoning many stews, sauces, soups, into shreds and P laced into another saucepan 

especially turtle soup, where it takes the place with aQ e 1 ual quantity of fresh shredded leeks, 

of the herb BASIL. It is a valuable addition the stock the fowls were boiled in bein g th en 

to apple dumplings, pies and sauces; in its strained over; this is then brought to the boil, 

ground state is often adulterated with pimentos skimmed, then simmered till the leeks are 

and other inferior spices. The word clove is tender ( about half an hour > seasoned with salt 

also used to designate a clove or section of and P e PP er ' thea served ' 

garlic COCKS-COMBS Called by the French "Cretes 

COBBLER-Name used in cookery to designate de ^" a ' e ^e crests of the male domestic 

a kind of pie used as a sweet entree; also in fowl cat off and blanched; used in cookery as 

the bartenders' guide to designate certain parts of certain garnitures; are of no value as 

mixed drinks. a flavor, but are valuable as pleasing the eye 

COCOA Name of a bean obtained from the while the sauce tickles the palate; may be pur- 

cocoa tree, from which is manufactured the chased at the large groceries already for use 

cocoa of commerce; used in cookery as a bottles, generally mixed with the cocks ker- 

breakfast and supper beverage; also the ex- nels (Spanish fries). 

pressed oil of the nut is used as cocoa butter, COCKS KERNELS The testicles of the male 

chiefly by confectioners. domestic fowl, situated in the middle of the 

COCOANUT--As generally seen in this country back of the bird; when to be cooked, they are 

is in shell form devoid of its fibrous husk. The washed, blanched, skinned, and made into 

shell when broken shows the enclosed nut; fricassees, supremes, breaded and fried, com- 

this is used in cookery (after having its dark ponent parts of garnitures, etc. Often called 

skin removed) chiefly by confectioners in mak- by gourmets, "Spanish fries"; purchasable in 

ing cakes, puddings, ices, macaroons, etc.; can bottles combined generally with cocks-combs. 

be purchased for such work in dessicated form. COCKLES Name of an English shellfish similar 

The milk of the cocoanut as the liquid is i n shape and flavor to the "little neck clam- 

called, is a valuable flavoring for curries, mulli- are imported into this country in small flat 

gatawney soup, almond soup, etc. cans (cooked). To be used they are taken from 

COCOTTE Name used in cookery to designate the can and thoroughly washed in cold water 

a way of cooking eggs. The cocotte cups have to rid them of a sandy sediment, they can then 

been recently placed on the market; they are be frizzled in butter and served very hot op 

in cup form without handles and with screw toast garnished with lemon and parsley, or 

covers; the cups when to be used are slightly mixed into cream, Hollandaise, Supreme or 

buttered, the eggs broken in (keeping the yolks Normande sauces and served either on toast or 

whole) a spoonful of cream poured carefully in croustades, paper cases, with rice, or border 

over them, the lid screwed on, the cups then of shrimps, or they may be curried and served 

placed into boiling water or into a steamer; with a border of rice. They are practically 

they require two minutes longer than is re- new to tne American public, and unless well 

quired for boiled eggs; they are sent to the washed from their sediment will not be much 

table in the cup and the lid is simply loosened, called for. 

so as to be removed by the guest at his or her COCKTAILS Name of a mixed drink; also ap- 

pleasure, or by the waiter at the request of the plied in cookery to oysters and clams. 



00 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

OYSTER COCKTAIL Half a dozen freshly BOILED COD STEAK WITH ANCHOVIES 

opened small oysters dropped into a sherbet Sells well in restaurants. Cod steaks about 

glass, seasoned with a dash each of tabasco, three-quarters of a pound in weight, laid in 

Worcestershire, tomato and Harvey sauces. salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted 

CLAM COCKTAIL Same as the preceding, water and milk, taken up and drained well; 

using clams for oysters and omitting the Har- served garnished with Hollandaise potatoes, 

vey sauce on account of its saline flavor. butter sauce containing plenty of shredded 

NEPTUNE COCKTAIL Three each freshly salt anchovies poured over the steak. (Flem- 

opened small oysters and clams dropped into a sh and Aurora sauces also go well with a 

sherbet glass, seasoned with a few shreds of boiled cod steak.) 

fresh horseradish, a dash each of tomato and FRIED COD STEAK, TOMATO SAUCE 

walnut catsups, and a dash each of Worcester- The steaks laid in salted water for an hour, 

shire and tabasco sauces. then taken up and wiped dry; dipped in melted 

CODFISH A staple salt water fish fit for hotel butter, then flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a 

use all the year round; caught on the New golden color in oil; served garnished with Juli- 

England coast and in vast numbers off the enne potatoes and tomato sauce poured around, 

shores of Newfoundland. The Newfoundland COD STEAK BREADCRUMBED, PARSLEY 

fisheries make a specialty of salting, drying SAUCE The steaks laid in salted water for an 

and smoking it, besides making /'caviar" of hour, then taken up and wiped dry, sprinkled 

its roe and extracting the oil from its liver. with a little lemon juice, dipped in beaten 

BAKED CODFISH, CAPER SAUCE On ac- e ?g s and resh breadcrumbs, arranged in a 

count of its size the fish after cleansing is best buttered pan, brushed over with melted butter 

cut into portion pieces, seasoned with sa't and or bacon fat, baked and turned so that both 

pepper, rolled in flour, then dipped into melted sides are brown; served with parsley sauce at 

bacon fat or olive oil, arranged on a baking end of dish - and garnished with Parisienne 

pan, baked and browned on both sides, the potatoes 

head boiled with an onion and grated carrot; FRIED COD CUTLET, PIQUANTE SAUCE 

butter sauce made from the liquor, into which Steaks cut from the middle of the fish, 

is then added capers and caper vinegar; fish seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in 

served garnished with lemon and parsley, with melted butter, rolled in flour, fried in pan with 

the sauce at one end of the fish. bacon fat, served with Piquante sauce at one 

BAKED CODFISH STUFFED WITH OY- end> Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley at the 

STERS Small cod about six pounds each, other - 

heads and fins removed, inside filled with an BROILED COD STEAK, COLBERT SAUCE 

oyster stuffing, sewn up, the back and sides The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, 

scored into portions, arranged in pan with a dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, slowly 

few shredded vegetables, moistened with a little broiled till done; served with Colbert sauce 

fish broth, brushed over with butter, baked and poured around and garnished with lemon and 

basted till done and glazy; served garnished parsley, also some fancy fried potatoes, 

with a potato croquette and oyster sauce poured CURRIED COD STEAK WITH RISSOTO 

around. Good way to use the tail steaks: cut them half 

BAKED CODFISH, BREADCR UMBED an inch thick, fry them a golden brown with a 
Slices of the fish free from bones, laid for an little minced onion, then place them in a sauce- 
hour in a mixture of olive oil, vinegar, salt and pan, flour and curry then added to the butter 
pepper, then taken up and drained, dipped in an d onions they were fried with, stirred, moist- 
butter, breadcrumbs, beaten eggs and again ened witQ equal parts of fish broth and cream, 
breadcrumbs, arranged in baking pan, moist- boil up, skim, add a little anchovy essence, 
ened with a little white wine and oyster liquor, strain the sauce over the steaks, put on range 
baked a golden brown; served garnished with aQ d simmer for a few minutes; serve with the 
Duchesse potatoes and lemon, with Hollandaise sauce over and garnish with small molds of 
sauce poured around. rissoto. 

BOILED CODFISH, EGG SAUCE The fish CREAMED FRESH COD ON TOAST 
cut into portion pieces, washed, then laid Shoulders and tails of cod are often bought up 
in salted water for an hour, taken up and cheap; boil them with an onion in salted water 
put to boil in cold salted water and milk; and milk, when cool, remove all skin and bones, 
as soon as the flesh is firm it is done, keeping the flakes whole; cream sauce made 
take up, drain, serve garnished with boiled from the liquor they were boiled in, finished 
small potatoes and egg sauce poured around. with a few beaten eggs, the fish flakes then re- 
Other good sauces to serve with boiled heated but not boiled; served on toast sprinkled 
cod are oyster, Be'chamel and Holland- with chopped parsley, and garnished with strips 
aise. of toast. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 61 

SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH The pre- roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in flour 

ceding recipe filled into scallop shells or oval and fried in butter ; served with a strained 

deep dishes, the top sprinkled with mixed grated piquante sauce well reduced with caper vinegar 

cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, then with and then add chopped capers, 

melted butter, baked a delicate brown and SMOKED COD'S ROES Are best either split 

served. and broiled, or split and fried in butter ; served 

CRIMPED COD, SHRIMP SAUCE To crimp with Maitre d'Hotel butter poured over, gar- 

a cod it must be fresh caught, then instantly nished with lemon. 

killed, cut and notched with a knife, then BOILED SALT COD, CREAM SAUCE Bone- 
boiled in salt water and milk; served with less codfish steeped over night, boiled up, water 
shrimp sauce poured around and garnished thrown away, again boiled up using cold water; 
with quartered hard boiled eggs, and small when done, taken up and drained; served with 
potatoes sprinkled with M&itre d'Hotel butter. cream sauce poured over, garnished with plain 

COD STEAK SAUTE, CLUB STYLE Steaks boiled potatoes or with potatoes in their skins. 

cut from the middle of the fish, seasoned with SALT COD SHREDDED AND CREAMED 

salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled The fish prepared as in the preceding, then 

in flour, fried a pale color in clear melted but- pulled into shreds, mixed into a reduced cream 

ter, taken up and drained, placed on serving or cream sauce ; served on very hot toast, with 

dish, the outer edge of the top garnished with a dusting of chopped parsley, 

fine parsley dust forming a horse shoe, lobster CODFISH BALLS ; OR CODFISH CAKES 

coral placed down the centre, and trianon The shredded codfish of the preceding and an 

sauce poured around. equal quantity of well maslied fresh boiled 

BOILED CODFISH TONGUES, EGG SAUCE potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- 

The tongues steeped for a whole day, then meg) bound with a few yolks of eggs, mixed 

blanched for ten minutes, taken up, masked w^ ma d e into small flattened cakes, rolled in 

with egg sauce ; served on toast. flour, fried brown in bacon fat ; served with a 

SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH TONGUES s ii ce o f bacon, and a little cream sauce poured 

The steeped tongues blanched for ten minutes, around. 

a thick Poulette sauce made from the blanching SCRAMBLED SALT COD ON TOAST The 

stock, tongues then mixed into it, filled into co d steeped, double blanched, shred, lightly 

scallop shells or deep oval dishes, the top fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, equal 

strewn with mixed chopped parsley, grated quantity of cream and beaten eggs then mixed 

cheese and bread crumbs, browned and served. an d stirred into the fish, scrambled ligthly; 

FRICASSEE OF COD'S SOUNDS WITH served very hot on buttered toast. 

OYSTERS The sounds blanched till nearly SCALLOPED SALT COD, (COD AU GRATIN) 
done in salted milk and water, taken up and The shredded and creamed cod filled into 
drained, the oyster then blanched in the strained scallop shells or deep oval dishes, sprinkled 
stock; cut the sounds after blanching to the with mixed grated cheese and sifted bread- 
size of the oysters ; Poulette sauce made from crumbs, browned in the oven or under a sala- 
the blanching stock, to which is then added the mander. 

fish; served on toast with a dusting of finely CODFISH CHOWDER Can be made with 

chopped parsley. either fresh or salt fish ; if the salt soak it over 

STUFFED COD'S SOUNDS, OYSTER SAUCE night, blanch it twice so as to extract the salt, 
. The sounds blanched and allowed to cool, fry some small pieces of salt pork with an onion 
then spread with an oyster forcemeat (see minced, when of a light color, remove from the 
oysters) ; when spread, coiled around and fire, add the fish in flakes (freed from bone), 
pinned with a small skewer, rolled in flour, some raw peeled potatoes cut in squares, a sea- 
then in melted butter and then in sifted bread- soning of thyme, marjoram, pepper and a can 
crumbs, arranged in a buttered baking pan, of tomatoes, fill the saucepan half full with fish 
roasied and basted with butter till brown and broth, put on the lid, place in oven and let it 
frothy ; served very hot with oyster sauce. simmer for an hour, take out, and work in with- 

BOILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE out breaking the potatoes an equal quantity of 
The roes blanched and skinned, then simmered thin cream sauce, add a little chopped parsley 
till doue in hot water with a dash of vinegar ; and serve. (After the cream sauce is in it must 
served with a good butter sauce containing a not be allowed to boil again or it will curdle), 
little anchovy essence and chopped parsley. COD AND OYSTER PIE, FRENCH STYLE- 
BROILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE Fresh boiled cod in flakes, scalded oysters 
The roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in added, mixed with Aurora sauce, kept hot in 
flour and fried in butter ; served with the sauce bain-marie, platter shaped pieces of puff paste 
of the preceding recipe with an addition of split, cod and oysters in sauce placed on the 
chopped capers. lower crust, covered with the upper crust and 

FRIED COD'S ROES, CAPER SAUCE The served very not. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CODFISH TONGUE PATTIES The tongues 
steeped and blanched, then fried with butter, 
drained, mixed with tomato sauce, filled into 
hot patty shells and served. 

SALT CODFISH HASH, NEW ENGLAND 
STYLE The shredded and creamed cod pre- 
viously mentioned mixed with an equal quantity 
of potatoes cut in thin strips like matches, 
which are then boiled in cream; when done and 
well reduced, mixed with the fish and served 
very hot on toast. 

COFFEE The national breakfast beverage; to 
be well made use a high grade of coffee, per- 
fectly roasted, properly ground, twelve ounces 
to the gallon of water for morning coffee, while 
for after dinner coffee (which is generally served 
in small cups) sixteen ounces to the gallon is 
required; fresh boiling water the moment it 
reaches the bubbling point, then only a little at 
first to open the pores of the coffee and get it 
ready to receive the remainder, which is to be 
put on a little at a time until ALL the good and 
NONE of the bitterness ^annin) is extracted, 
for if it be too strong for some, it can easily be 
diluted with boiling water when in the cups; 
HOT cups first, then the sugar, then warmed 
milk (not boiled), then the coffee, and if afforded, 
put on the top a teaspoonful of whipped cream, 
then you have a veritable nectar; the cream 
cleaves to the roof of the mouth, and the coffee 
slips down "like the oil down Aaron's beard". 

COFFEE ICE CREAM One quart of fresh made 
and cooled coffee, with three pounds of pow- 
dered and sifted sugar to each gallon of pure 
cream, mixed, strained into the freezer and 
frozen. 

COGNAC pronounced KONEYAK The term 
used by t'lie French for brandy. 

COLBERT Name given to a sauce and a soup. 
Sauce made of a pint of good Espagnole, into 
which is mixed a little meat glaze, lemon juice, 
chopped parsley, and red pepper, made very hot 
without being boiled, then very gradually beaten 
in a half pint of clear melted butter. The soup 
is made with a rich consomme" and contains 
shredded celery and lettuce blanched, diced 
artichoke bottoms and small button onions. 

COLBERT SOUP Another way is to make a 
rich cream soup ligh'ly thickened with a liaison 
of egg yolks and cream, into which is then 
worked a puree" of blanched hearts of endive, a 
fresh soft poached egg being served with each 
portion. 

COMPOTE A term used in cookery to signify 
something whole in a sauce. Hence a compote 
of fruit is the fruit either whole, or split and the 
stone or core removed, dropped into a thick 
boiling syrup till cooked without breaking, 
cooled, served with the syrup. A compote of 
birds such as larks, reedbirds, ortolans, etc. are 
the birds boned and stuffed, then lightly 
roasted, then finished cooking in a bright sauce; 
served with the sauce. 



CONDE pronounced KONDAY Term applied 
to a dish of stewed apricots served with rice; 
also to a soup of puree of red haricot beans, 
which dishes it is said the "Prince of Conde" 
originated. 

CONSOMME Name applied in cookery to a 
strong clarified soup, the different consomme's 
seen on bills of fare, called Consomme a la 
this and a la that, simply terrorizes the guests 
as Well as the young cooks, and are merely sig- 
nificant of the different garnitures that are 
placed in the soup or plate before being served, 
or else the flavor of the principal meat of which 
the consomme" was made. The ingredients for 
a good general every day consomme is here 
given. 

CONSOMME INGREDIENTS- To make five 
gallons (which quantity should serve 100 guests) 
take fifteen pounds of LEAN beef trimmings, 
six medium sized peeled carrots, same of 
onions, twelve leeks, two heads of celery, a 
bunch of parsley and a gallon of tomatoes all 
chopped fine, mix with them after chopping, 
one tablespoonful of whole peppers, twelve 
cloves, six bay leaves, eighteen beaten whites 
of eggs and their shells, a little salt, then add 
stirring all the time, eight gallons of good stock 
free from fat, COLD, or if hot, place a chunk 
of ice in the saucepan before pouring in the hot 
stock. Next, place saucepan on the range, add 
three hens, (they can be used as salads after) 
fetch to a slow simmer and reduce to about five 
gallons in four hours, then strain through a 
consomme towel (double cheese cloth). 
In the following numerous consomme's there 
will be stated certain flavors such as "veal," 
"chicken," "game," "mutton," "vegetable," 
"fish," etc. When the recipe has this statement, 
it means that the stock besides containing the in- 
gredients mentioned for making consomme should 
have an extra supply of the flavor called for, so 
that it will be distinct from the ordinary flavor of 
plain consomme\ 

CONSOMME AFRICAINE Cooked artichoke 
bottoms and egg plant cut in small squares, 
kept hot in consomme, spoonful placed in each 
pbte at time of serving; a teaspoonful of curry 
powder to each gallon of stock should be mixed 
with the ingredients before boiling so as to give 
the soup a light curry flavor. 

CONSOMME ANDALOUSE After the plain 
consomme" is strained and seasoned, some well 
washed pearl tapioca is simmered in it till per- 
fectly clear; small poached quenelles of force- 
meat are kept hot in a little consomme", and one 
or two added to each plate at time of serving; 
the soup should have strong tomato flavor with 
a suspicion of garlic. 

CONSOMME ANGLAISE Plain consomme" 
made with plenty of veal bones to give it a gela- 
tinous taste; served with green peas and small 
squares of white chicken meat in each plate. 
CONSOMME BAGRATION Make two sepa 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



rate consomme's, one plain, the other with 
plenty of fish heads, when both are strained 
and seasoned, mix together, so that the fish 
flavor slightly predominates; when serving, a 
spoonful of the following mixture is placed in 
each plate of soup; small fish quenelles, tails of 
crayfish, flakes of small fish, and small cut vege- 
tables of the season. 

CONSOMME BEAUVILLIERS Soup of vege- 
table flavor, served with slices of stuffed cucum- 
bers and small squares of toast. To stuff the 
cucumbers, cut off the ends, remove the seedy 
part with a column cutter, fill it with any force- 
meat you have on hand, then simmer in milk 
and water till done, remove and drain, and when 
cold cut in thin slices, 

CONSOMME BOURDALOUE A chicken-flav- 
ored soup served with small squares of cooked 
chicken breast, green peas, circular thin slices 
of rice that has been mixed with egg yolks and 
montpelier butter, then steamed and allowed to 
become cold. 

CONSOMME BARIGOULE A game-flavored 
soup seasoned with sherry wine, and served 
with slices of stuffed olives together with slices 
of button mushrooms. 

CONSOMME BRUNOISE A vegetable-flav- 
ored soup served with green peas, very small 
squares of carrot, turnip (white and yellow) 
celery and artichokes. 

CONSOMME BOURGEOISE To the con- 
somme" ingredients is added a couple of ham 
knuckles, thus giving the soup a slight ham 
flavor. It is served with shred cooked cabbage, 
leeks, very small balls of potatoes, and minute 
squares of carrot, turnip and celery. 

CONSOMME CARE ME A plain consomme 1 
flavored with Madeira wine and served with 
small sippets of toast, together with small cir- 
cular slices of cooked carrot, white and yellow 
turnip, finely shred lettuce, sorrel leaves and a 
sprinkling of chopped chervil. 

CONSOMME CELESTINE A plain consomme" 
flavored with sherry wine, served with small 
sandwiches of the following: Make six French 
pancakes, spread three with forcemeat and 
grated cheese, place the other three on top, 
then stamp them with a medium-sized column 
cutter. 

CONSOMME CHATELAINE A plain con- 
somme served with green peas, shredded string 
beans and squares of custard, made of one pint 
of onion puree, 24 egg yolks, salt, red pepper, 
mixed and steamed. 

CONSOMME CHANTILLY A bunch of fresh 
mint should be boiled with the consomme" in- 
gredients, the soup to be served with blanched 
rings of green onion tops, and small squares of 
a stiff pure"e of green peas. 

CONSOMME WITH CHOUX A plain con- 
somme served with green peas, slices of button 
mushrooms and small balls of choux paste made 
like stoned olives, the centre filled with force- 



meat and baked ten minutes. 

CONSOMME CHIFFONADE A vegetable 
flavored soup served with shredded cabbage 
and lettuce, thin strips of carrot and turnip, 
together with green peas. 

CONSOMME CLAREMONT A plain con- 
somme" served with small rings of onions that 
have been dipped in milk, then flour, then fried 
crisp ; together with Royal custards cut in 
squares or circles, made of ten yolks of eggs, 
two whole eggs, and half pint of cold consomme"; 
mixed together, not beaten; slowly steamed till 
set. 

CONSOMME COLBERT A plain consomme" 
served with a freshly poached egg, and a spoon- 
ful of small cut vegetables of the season. 

CONSOMME WITH CELERY Plenty of 
celery trimmings should be boiled with the con- 
somme ingredients, the soup served with a 
spoonful of shredded cooked celery, thin strips 
of tongue, mushrooms and a little dry boiled 
rice. 

CONSOMME CUSSY With the consomme" in- 
gredients should be boiled plenty of game trim- 
mings to give the soup a game flavor. It is 
served with small blanched and peeled chest- 
nuts, a small timbale of game forcemeat mixed 
with mushrooms, finished with a little Madeira 
wine. 

CONSOMME DUCHESSE Strain off a plain 
consomme", then thicken it with corn-starch 
mixed with water, simmer it till it is perfectly 
clear and gelatinous; it is then served with 
strips of white chicken meat ; the soup to be of 
strong chicken flavor. 

CONSOMME WITH DARIOLES A consomme" 
of strong chicken flavor served with quarters of 
darioles made of a pound of lean grated ham, 
half a cupful of Soubise pure"e, half a cupful 
of tomato pure"e, two whole eggs, eight yolks 
of eggs, a wine glass of Madeira wine, same of 
cold consomme, with a dash of red pepper; 
make the whole into a paste, then rub it through 
a fine sieve, fill dariole molds, steam till set, 
cut in quarters when cold, and serve with the 
soup together with green peas. 

CONSOMME DESCLIGNAC A plain con- 
somme" flavored with sherry wine, served with 
circular slices of Royal custards. 

CONSOMME DOUGLAS A plain consomme* 
served with shreds of cooked celery, red tongue, 
mushrooms and a little dry boiled rice. 

CONSOMME DUBORG A plain consomme" 
served with dry boiled rice and some fancy 
shapes of Royal custards. 

CONSOMME D'ORSAY A strong chicken 
flavored consomme" served with an egg poached 
in consomme 1 , together with very small cut 
vegetables of the season. 

CONSOMME DAUMONT A sherry wine-flav- 
ored consomme" served with small pieces of 
cooked chicken breast, sweetbread, red tongue 
and tops of button mushrooms. 



54 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

CONSOMME EPICURE A strong consomme" CONSOMME WITH MACARONI A roast poul- 

of game-flavor, seasoned with Madeira wine, try stock should be used to make the consomme"; 

and served with a freshly poached egg in each when strained off and seasoned, served with 

plate. macaroni that has been boiled, washed, drained, 

CONSOMME OF GAME The preceding, but and then cut into quarter-inch pieces. 

in place of the egg, it is served with quenelles CONSOMME MILAN AISE The preceding 

or raviolis made of uncooked partridge one part, made consomme - ser ved with the addition to the 

cooked calf's brains one part, Parmesan cheese macaroni, one i ncn lengths of boiled smoked 

half part, yolks of eggs to bind, pounded, tongue; a butter chip full of Parmesan cheese 

rubbed through a fine sieve, molded into should be served separately, 

quenelles and poached. CONSOMME MONTE CARLO A rich chicken 

CONSOMME GAMBETTA-A chicken-flavored flavofed consomme served whh slices of cooked 

consomme served with a poached yolk of egg etables stamped out with cutters repr esent- 

and three quenelles of veal, one of its natural . clubs, spades, hearts and diamonds; also 

color, the others being colored red and green circular slices of chicken {orcemeat that is dotted 

with truffles to represent dominoes; also circu- 
CONSOMME INDIENNE-Sameas "consomme , slices of ^ beetfOot) carrot and 

Afncame .adding, however, strips of cooked repres enting poker chips, 

chicken breast and a little dry boiled rice. , 

CONSOMME IMPERATRICE-A strong chicken CONSOMME MEFICIS-A rich chicken flavored 

flavored consomme" served with a freshly poached consomme" lightly thickened with corn starch; 

egg in each plate served with a freshly poached egg in each plate, 

CONSOMME ITALIENNE-A plain consomme ^ ether with a cana P e or s , ma11 P*"? of chicken 

slightly flavored with tomatoes and a suspicion forcemeat served separately. 

of garlic; served with green peas and small CONSOMME MONTMORENCY A rich flav- 

pieces of well washed macaroni. ored chicken consomme" served with noodles, 

CONSOMME IMPERIAL-A chicken flavored sma11 balls of chicken forcemeat, and some let- 
consomme" served with green ; peas, asparagus tuce leaves s P read with chicken forcemeat rolled 
points and small quenelles of chicken forcemeat. U P llke cigarettes and braised. 

CONSOMME JULIENNE-A vegetable flavored CONSOMME N APOLIT AINE-A game flavored 

consomme" served with fine shreds of green consomme" to which is added Madeira wine, 

stringless beans, carrot, turnip, cabbage, celery, served with sma11 cut and washed macaroni, 

leeks, spring onions, and green peas, the vege- cooked celery cut in small squares, and small 

tables should be saute"ed in butter first, before croutons of toast, 

simmering them in the consomme^ CONSOMME WITH NOODLES-A rich chick- 

CONSOMME JOINVILLE-A strong consomme" en flavored consomm ^ serv * d with **7 * hred 

well flavored with fish heads, pounded lobster no es ' - , 

heads and shells; when strained off, seasoned CONSOMME NIVERNAISE - A plain con- 

with white wine, served with small pieces of som ^ &a ed w j th sh , err y w ' ne; ^rved with 

lobster and croutons souffles. * ma11 q uenelles f veal, together with fancy 

X-.^ITO^.H***^ T^-TTT^OT-T *- , a j Italian paste, and a macedome of vegetables. 

CONSOMME KURSEL-A vegetable flavored CO NSOMME NAUDIER -A rich chicken fla- 

consomme served with a spoonful of cooked yored consomme served whh small quenelles of 

green peas, asparagus tips, shred lettuce, cut chicken forceme at of different colors; to make 

stringless beans, flageolets and green onions. wh - ch( takfi some chicken forcemeat and divide 

CONSOMME MARIE STUART-A mutton flav- h into four parts; into the first work some finely 

ored consomme" served with a spoonful of well chopped truffle peelings; the second finely 

washed, cooked pearl barley, and small cut minced red tongue; the third chopped pars i e y; 

vegetables of the season. the fourth> minced yolks of hard boiled eggs> 

CONSOMME MACEDOINE A chicken flav- CONSOMME NILSSON A rich chicken fla- 

ored consomme" served with a mixture of vari- vored consomme" served with small quenelles 

colored vegetables cut in very small squares, or O f chicken forcemeat in three colors shaoe of a 

else use the canned macedoines. pencil, an inch long; to make which, divide the 

CONSOMME MAGENTA A plain consomme" forcemeat into three parts, leave one plain, 

slightly colored with tomato juice, to which is color the others red and green respectively. 

added a macedoine of vegetables and some CONSOMME ORGE A plain consomme" served 

chopped parsley and celery leaves. with pearl barley, breast of cooked chicken cut 

CONSOMME MASSENA Made with plenty of in squares, carrots and turnips cut into small 

hare or jack rabbit trimmings mixed with the squares. 

consomme" ingredients, when strained off, flav- CONSOMME WITH PEAS A vegetable fla- 

ored with sherry wine; served with small que- vored consomme" served with green peas, to- 

nelles of rabbit. gether with black peas scooped out of truffles. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



65 



CONSOMME POISSON A plain consomme" 
slightly flavored with fish stock, seasoned with 
sherry wine; served with green peas, dry boiled 
rice and small quenelles of lobster. 

CONSOMME PRINTANIERE A vegetable 
flavored consomme" served with plenty of green 
peas, asparagus tips, and other spring vegeta- 
bles cut small. 

CONSOMME PRINTANIERE ROYAL Same 
as the preceding, with the addition of Royal 
custards, in to which has been steamed a finely 
cut macedoine of vegetables. 

CONSOMME PAYSANNE A vegetable flavored 
consomme" served with a jardiniere of vege- 
tables, shred cabbage and lettuce. 

CONSOMME PRINCESSE A rich chicken fla- 
vored consomme" served with green peas, aspar' 
agus tips, pearl barley, diced chicken breast, 
and forcemeat quenelles. 

CONSOMME PATTI A plain consomme" served 
with rice, green peas, breast of chicken and 
truffles cut in small squares, together with 
some Parmesan cheese served separately. 

CONSOMME PATE D'lTALIE A chicken fla 
vored consomme" served with fancy Italian 
paste. 

CONSOMME PRINCE DE GALLES--A game 
flavored consomme, served with asparagus tips. 
Royal custards, breast of chicken and chicken 
forcemeat, all cut in diamond shapes. 

CONSOMME PALESTINE A chicken flavored 
consomme served with dry boiled rice, and thin 
slices of stewed Jerusalem artichokes. 

CONSOMME WITH QUENELLES, ASPAR. 
AGUS TIPS, TURNIPS, RICE, CORN, 
PEAS, OR ANY OTHER SIMPLE THING, 
AS OFTEN SEEN ON BILLS OF FARE- 
IS SIMPLY A PLAIN CONSOMME SERVED 
WITH THE ARTICLE NAMED. 

CONSOMME ROY ALE A plain consomme' 
served with circular slices of Royal custards, 
and flavored with sherry wine. 

CONSOMME RACHAEL A game flavored con- 
somme" seasoned with Madeira wine, and served 
with small quenelles of game together with 
shreds of cooked red tongue and truffles. 

CONSOMME RENAISSANCE A game flavored 
consomme" seasoned with Malaga wine; served 
with sliced mushrooms, dry boiled rice, green 
peas and croutons. 

CONSOMME RIVOLI A plain consomme* but 
highly spiced; served with noodles, also Parme- 
san cheese served separately. 

CONSOMME SEMOULE A plain consomm, 
when strained off has tapioca or semolina washed, 
then simmered till same is clear in the soup. 

CONSOMME SAGOU Same as the preceding, 
bat using sago instead of tapioca. 

CONSOMME DE STAEL A chicken flavored 
consomme" served with lozenge shaped pieces of 
fried bread, and small quenelles of chicken 
forcemeat. 



CONSOMMfi SEVEIGNE A chicken flavored 
consomme" served with asparagus tips, cut string- 
less beans, green peas, and Royal custards 
mixed with forcemeat. 

CONSOMME SOLFERINO A strong beef fla- 
vored consomme"; served with small quenelles of 
farina. Plenty of roast beef bones should be 
boiled in the stock. 

CONSOMME SUEDOISE A rich chicken fla- 
vored consomme" served with a small croustade 
in each plate filled with a mixture as follows: 
run a couple of carrots, turnips and a small cab- 
bage through a mincing machine, braise them 
till done, then mix with them a can each of 
flageolet beans and green peas, also a little 
Parmesan cheese; season to taste, 

CONSOMME TROIS RACINES A mutton fla- 
vored consomme" served with cubes of braised 
turnip, carrot and celery, 

CONSOMME TALMA A chicken flavored con- 
somme* served with grains of boiled rice, and 
shapes of Royal custards made of eggs and 
almond milk. 

CONSO MME ST. XAVIER A vegetable flavored 
consomme served with a Printanie"re of vege- 
tables, shred cabbage and the following: Cook 
together four ounces of butter, six ounces of 
flour, two ounces of grated cheese, one cup of 
cream; season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg; 
remove from the fire when done, and beat into 
it two whole eggs, two yolks of eggs, some 
chopped parsley; then rub it through a colan- 
der into the simmering soup. 

CONSOMME VERMICELLI-Is simply a rich 
veal flavored consomme" served with vermicelli 
that has been boiled, and then well washed and 
drained. 

CONSOMME VOLAILLE Is simply a rich 
chicken flavored consomme" served with strips of 
chicken meat. 

COQ The French word for "cock", hence they 
have "coqde Bruyere" which in English means 
black cock or heath fowl, "coq d'lnde" or 
turkey cock. 

COQUILLE Is the French word for shell, and 
we have many dishes served "en coquille".or 
in shell, generally in a scallop shell, either nat- 
ural, or of metal or earthernware to imitate it. 

CORBEILLE Is the French word for basket 
that is used to hold a display of crystallized 
fruits or flowers, etc , etc. 

CORDIALS Or liqueurs as the French call them, 
enter into many ices and drinks that are served 
at banquets, of which the following is a list of 
those most used. "Absinthe, Alkermes, Bene- 
dictine, Chartreuse, Curacoa, Kummel, Shrub, 
Kirsch or Kirschenwasser, Maraschino, Nectar, 
Negus, Noyeau, Punch, Ratafia and Vermouth. 

CORIANDER Name of an aromatic seed resem- 
bling whole peppers in size and shape, used by 
confectioners as a flavoring, also by the cook 
for seasoning green turtle soup. 



66 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CORN A most succulent and nutritious vege- 
table. In its green state it is generally boiled 

, for about twenty minutes in boiling water con- 
taining milk and salt, and is served on the cob. 
The dried corn or maize, (MAIS in French,) is 
ground coarse or fine for making the following 
dishes. 

CORN MEAL MUSH One gallon of water, one 
ounce each of salt and butter. The seasoned 
water is brought to the boil, into which is then 
strewn and beaten one and a quarter pounds of 
corn meal; when boiled up again, it should be 
removed to the back of the range where it must 
simmer for three hours with a cover on; served 
with cream or milk and sugar. 

FRIED CORN MUSH A popular breakfast 
dish. The mush of the preceding when cooked 
is poured into a buttered pan, smoothed, the top 
then brushed with melted butter to prevent a 
hard skin forming, allowed to become cold, cut in 
blocks or slices, fried plain in butter, or breaded 
and fried; served with maple syrup. 

CORN BATTER CAKES For recipe see head- 
ing of " Batters." 

CORN GEMS OR MUFFINS One and a half 
pounds of corn meal, three quarters of a pound 
of sifted wheat flour, three teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder, half a cup of granulated sugar, one 
teaspoonful salt, all mixed together dry; one 
and a half pints each of water and milk, six 
beaten eggs, half a cupful of melted butter mixed 
together, the dry and wet mixtures then thor- 
oughly incorporated and poured into hot greased 
patty shells or muffin rings and baked; light and 
delicious. 

CORN BREAD, JOHNNY CAKE OR CORN 
DODGER The preceding mixture poured into 
greased hot shallow baking pans and baked well 
done with crisp corners. 

CORN MEAL GRUEL Well boiled corn meal 
mush two-thirds, slightly sweetened boiling milk 
one-third, mixed, then forced through a fine 
sieve or colander. 

CORN WAFFLES The mixture above given 
for "Corn Muffins," poured into hot waffle 
irons, baked and served dusted with powdered 
sugar. 

CORN BLANC-MANGE Equal quantities of 
white corn meal and corn starch mixed dry, 
beaten into boiling milk sweetened to taste, 
then allowed to simmer for an hour, removed, 
flavored, poured into decorated molds, turned 
out when set and cold; served with whipped 
cream, iruit syrups or stewed fruits. 

CORN MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING Thick 
well boiled corn meal mush allowed to partly 
cool, into which is then mixed seedless raisins, 
grated lemon rind.ginger, butter.a little molasses 
beaten with a very little baking soda, beaten 
eggs, then baked and served with a fruit syrup 
sauce. 

POLENTA The Italian name for our corn meal 



mush; they also make a polenta from chestnut 
flour. 

HULLED CORN Dried white corn soaked in 
weak lye for two days is then well washed, 
boiled tender and served plain with milk. In 
the larger cities there are people who prepare 
it and sell it ready for boiling. 

TORTILLAS, A CORN CAKE MADE BY THE 
MEXICANS The tortilla is typical of old Mex- 
ico, and is encountered wherever the influence 
of the cactus republic has reached. It was 
found as the main article of food among the 
ancient Aztecs at the time of the Spanish con- 
quests, more than three and a half centuries ago; 
and the little hand ground and palm-fashioned 
corn cake has well held its own down through 
the ages, being today as popular and in as gen- 
eral use as ever. Shelled corn intended for this 
use is first soaked over night in lime water until 
the outer husk of the kernels is loose enough to 
be removed by being rolled between the hands, 
and is then ready for grinding. This is done 
by the Mexican women of the lower classes, 
who often work in the doorways of their homes, 
bending over the historic stone hand mill, called 
in Mexico a MAT ATE. The mill is simply a 
rough slab of stone supported by four stocky 
legs and is made of bolcanic tufa, the coarse 
grain of which is best adapted for the grinding 
of the corn, beans, chilli seeds, cheese or what- 
ever it maybe desired to finely pulverize. The 
stone mill is an indispensable item in the culin- 
ary outfit of the tropical home. The accompany- 
ing handpiece, looking like a rude rolling pin, is 
also of stone, and is briskly worked up and down 
the incline of the rude stone table by the woman 
as she bends to her work with a steady swing of 
body, shoulders and arms. It is claimed that 
the flour for the tortillas can be perfectly 
milled only by their ancient methods, and when 
one sees the result of the grinding he is ready 
to admit that possibly they are right. As the 
moist windrows of the meal roll off the grinding 
board it is caught in a basin and is then ready 
for being formed into cakes for baking. When 
ready to bake a woman takes a small lump of 
the heavy mixture and lays it in the palm of her 
hand; then with the other palm, she rolls it into 
a ball and begins to quickly pat it in to the de- 
sired thinness, deftly spreading the fingers to 
allow it to enlarge its size, and changing it from 
hand to hand until it is only an eighth of an inch 
in thickness and generally about six inches in 
diameter, although sometimes as large as a din- 
ner plate. The plastic cakes are tossed, one 
after another, as completed, upon the stove 
called a Brasero, and as fast as delicately 
browned and turned they are placed in a steam- 
ing heap and enveloped in a cloth to keep them 
warm. 

CORN FRITTERS Canned corn, or cooked 
corn cut off the cob, pounded, mixed with a little 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



flour, beaten eggs, salt, pepper and a little but- 
ter, dropped by spoonfuls into hot fat and fried 
brown; served as a garniture to chicken, Mary- 
land style, or as a vegetable. 

GRATED CORN PUDDING Two quarts of 
cooked corn grated off the cob, eight yolks of 
eggs, cup of melted butter, pint of milk, salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, mixed, poured into but- 
tered baking pans, baked; served with a sweet 
sauce. 

GREEN CORN SAUTE Boiled corn cut from 
the cob, melted butter in saute" pan, corn tossed 
and heated thoroughly in it, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; served very hot; after 
sante'eing, it may also be mixed with a cream 
or Bechamel sauce, and served as a vegetable. 

GREEN CORN BATTER CAKES Two quarts 
of cooked corn grated from the cob, twelve 
ounces of flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, pint and 
a half of milk, four beaten eggs, thoroughly 
mixed, baked on a griddle; served with butter 
and sugar, or syrup. 

CORN SOUP Fresh green corn partly grated 
off the cob and placed aside; the rest on the cob 
boiled in chicken broth till tender, then strain 
it off on to the grated pulp, boil up, season with 
buttei, salt, nutmeg and a little sugar, then pass 
it through a fine sieve into an equal quantity of 
Ve'loute' sauce. Another way is to take canned 
corn, pound it, rub it through a sieve, boil it 
with milk, then mix it with Veloute" sauce. 

t.'ORN AND TOMATO SOUP Canned, or corn 
cut from the cob, passed through a mincing 
machine, then rubbed through a fine sieve, the 
pure"e thus obtained boiled in a Veloute' sauce, 
then combined with an equal quantity of tomato 
puree. 

ROAST CORN IN EAR Young green corn with 
<he thick outer husks removed, the inner leaves 
after removing the silk, tied at the top, slowly 
roasted till done; served with the green cover- 
ing; cut top and bottom so as be removed easily. 

POP CORN A variety of corn that is held in a 
wire basket over heat enough to burst or pop it; 
it can then be cemented together into balls with 
butter and syrup, etc. 

ROAST GREEN CORN Young green corn 
stripped and the silk removed, arranged in a 
buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt, white 
pepper and melted butter, slowly baked, basted 
and turned till done. 

CORN STARCH A preparation of the inner 
part of corn used in making blanc-manges, 
thickening soups, sauces, etc. 

STEWED CORN, CREOLE STYLE Canned 
corn, or corn cooked and cut from the cob, 
mixed with an equal quantity of peeled and 
cooked tomatoes, a grating of onion and garlic, 
salt, pepper and butter, boiled down thick; 
served as a vegetable. 

TORN SALAD Called "Doucette" by the 
French, is a herb used in mixing salads; some- 



times made into a salad by itself; is good to 
mix with lettuce salad, giving it a slightly bitter 
taste; it resembles somewhat a cabbage lettuce 
in appearance and growth. 

COTELETTES The French word for our cut- 
lets, but is generally applied to rib chops of 
mutton, lamb and veal. 

COURTBOUILLON Is the name of a highly 
seasoned broth used to boil fresh water fish, to 
impart a better flavor to them, and is made 
from carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, 
thyme, garlic, sliced lemon, chervil, salt and 
pepper, all tied in a muslin bag and boiled with 
a few fish heads in water containing white or 
red wine or vinegar; after the seasoning is 
extracted, it is strained and put away for use as 
required; it also enters into a few soups, sauces 
and garnitures, such as Havraise, Holstein, 
Normande and Venitienne sauces, Chambord 
and Genevoise garnitures, Bouillabaisse, Eel, 
Lobster and other fish soups and bisques. 

CRABS Are a delectable shellfish. In this country 
we use for food two kinds, the hard shell blue 
crab which periodically sheds its shell, thus giv- 
ing us the "soft shell crab" and the oyster crab. 
The male crab has a long white, narrow tail 
turned round its under part, the female has a 
broad brownish, feathery tail. The centre of 
the body is filled with its liver, which is a soft 
yellow substance. The meat used is obtained 
from the inner top of the back, and the claws. 
Crab meat is tasty but comparatively poor in 
nutriment and very hard to digest. There is one 
firm in this country " McMenamin of Hamp- 
ton, Virginia," who for years past have made 
a specialty of putting up fresh cooked crab meat 
in cans, supplying with each can a sufficient 
number of shells to hold the amount of meat. 
They are obtainable of leading grocers every- 
where, and from personal experience of their 
use, the author can say that he has found their 
crab meat give perfect satisfaction to hotel 
patrons. 

CRAB CAKES Cooked crab meat four parts, 
fresh bread crumbs one part, mixed and sea- 
soned with salt, nutmeg, red pepper, and 
chopped parsley, and bound with raw egg yolks; 
made into cakes like "codfish cakes" then 
breaded and fried; served with cream or Hol- 
landaise sauces. 

CRAB TOAST Cooked crab meat sautded with 
butter, seasoned with salt, nutmeg and red 
pepper; served piled high on slices of hot but- 
tered toast. 

BUTTERED CRAB Cooked crab meat cut 
small, two parts; fresh bread crumbs, one part; 
mixed and seasoned with a little chopped 
parsley, salt, red pepper, nutmeg, caper vinegar 
and melted butter, then packed into crab shells, 
sprinkled with bread crumbs, then melted but- 
ter, browned in hot oven and served. 



68 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

CRAB SAUSAGES Cooked crab meat seasoned hot. Some cooks have a habit of mixing the 

with chervil, a suspicion of garlic, salt, red crab meat with a highly seasoned sauce instead 

pepper and minced chives, the whole pounded, of the directions just given, with the result that 

rubbed through a sieve, bound with raw yolks if not all served at the one meal, they go flat 

of eggs, formed into shapes of sausages, rolled when cold, and look unsightly and unservice- 

in flour, fried a delicate brown with butter; able when reheated. 

served with tartar sauce. SCALLOPED CRABS The deviled crab mix- 

CRAB FRITTERS Cooked crab meat finely ture of the preceding moistened with Veloute 

minced, mixed with a little minced fried onion, sauce, filled into crab or scallop shells, or small 

a suspicion of garlic, seasoned with salt, pepper, oval deep dishes, strewn with grated cheese 

nutmeg, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce and and mehed butter, browned in hot oven and 

chopped parsley, all boiled down in a Ve'loute' served. 

sauce till thick; then is worked in a few beaten BAKED CRABS Minced shallots, thinly sliced 

egg yolks, removed and poured into a buttered mushrooms lightly fried together with butter, 

pan and allowed to become cold; then cut in i nto which is then mixed cooked crab meat, 

finger slices, dipped into a thin frying batter, truffle trimmings, chopped parsley, salt, red 

fried; served with tartar sauce. pepper and a little Ve'loute sauce; filled into 

CRAB CANAPES Minced cooked crab meat i arge crab shells, strewn with fresh sifted bread 

mixed with a little finely minced fried shallots, crumbs, browned in oven, served hot. 

seasoned with salt red pepper and grated Par- CR CREOL E STYLE-Live hard shell 

mesan cheese, boiled down thick with a rich fish . ke ttle with separate perforated 

Veloute sauce, allowed to cool, then spread on , , . , . 

fancy shapes of toast, the meat then strewn with bott m ' Unde ; wh ' ch 1S , P Ur f d * hlte wme V ! ne - 

grated cheese, browned off in hot oven and g ar seasoned th sal ' and red P e PP er - ^' e 

, crabs placed on the false bottom, lid of kettle 

CRlToMELET-The preceding mixture while P ' aCed tightly ; ke le P ut ver a g od fire ' 

still hot enclosed in centre of omelet; served wh f n Crabs are f * br ' ght T* ~ 1 . r ' take Up 

with Veloute sauce poured around. and served at once with the under shell separated. 

CRAB SALAD-Cooked crab meat cut fine, sea- CROUSTADE OF CRABS-Cooked crab meat 

soned with oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and red saut<ed with rainced shallots in butter - seasoned 

pepper mixed with a little finely shred and with salt - red P e PP er and ca P er v eg ar . mois <- 

minced white cabbage; served on a leaf of ened and heated with sauce Normande, filled 

lettuce, garnished with shred lettuce, stuffed into bread or P aste croustades; served very hot. 

olives, and slices of hard boiled eggs. CRAB FORCEMEAT Cooked crab meat finely 

CRAB STEW Cooked crab meat seasoned with minced with chervil, chives and a small clove 

salt, pepper and nutmeg, made hot in a rich of garlic, seasoned with salt, red pepper and 

Bechamel sauce; served in cases or croustades, caper vinegar, pounded, then rubbed through a 

the top sprinkled with parsley dust. fine sieve, bound with raw egg yolks. Set aside 

CRAB, QUEEN STYLE Cold cooked crab for use. 

meat in shreds three parts, finely shred hearts CRAB CROQUETTES Crab forcemeat made 

of celery one part, mixed, seasoned with tarra- into shapes, breaded, fried; served with sauce 

gon vinegar, olive oil, salt and red pepper, filled Joinville. 



CRAB KHOMESKIES Co,d era, 

, , ,- j a * i- / fi j rolled into size and shape of a finger, bound 

lobster coral and sliced stuffed olives, (called ., ,. .. u u -i j u 

r-T?AR A T A oTrTMTr\ with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned 

^ivAij A ,L,A 1\ rL 1 IN il, ) . . . . 

T-*TXT^-T- ^T- ~T^ * *M_ j* , , , with a toothpick, dipped into a plain batter, 

EMINCE OF CRAB -Shredded cooked crab ^ ^ ^^ serve / with tartar 
meat seasoned with salt, red pepper, dash of 
Worcestershire sauce and caper vinegar, mixed 

with a little Parmesan cheese, tossed and STUFFED CRAB Cooked crab meat seasoned 

thoroughly heated in a sautoir with butter; with tarragon vinegar, curry powder, salt and 

served on hot buttered toast, sprinkled with red pepper, slightly moistened with VfloutS 

chopped parsley. sauce, filled into shells, strewn with sifted 

DEVILED CRABS-Cooked crab meat mixed bread crumbs*, baked; served very hot. 

with minced whites of hard boiled eggs and the TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CRAB Raw 

yolks rubbed through a sieve, seasoned with peeled tomatoes of an even size, hollowed out. 

salt, red pepper, dry mustard, Worcestershire seeds removed, the outside then covered with 

sauce and tarragon vinegar; made hot with a crab forcemeat, and the inside filled with dev- 

good allowance of melted butter, filled into illed crab mixture, smoothed off, rolled in sifted 

shells, smoothed, strewn with sifted bread bread crumbs, baked and basted with butter; 

crumbs, browned off in the oven and served very served very hot. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 69 

CRAB SAUCE Cooked crab meat minced with SOFT SHELL CRABS STEAMED Live crabs 

a few mushrooms, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, with the small claws and sand pouch removed, 

red pepper and lemon juice, simmered in placed on false bottom of fish kettle containing 

Bechamel sauce for a few minutes; chopped vinegar and water underneath; steamed ten 

parsley may be added if desired. minutes, served with Bechamel sauce. 

CRAB GUMBO (soup) Very small squares of OYSTER CRABS, SAUCE POULETTE Well 
raw lean bam fried a delicate brown with washed oyster crabs sauted with butter, sea- 
minced onion or shallots and crab meat, flour soned with salt and pepper, moistened with 
added to form a roux, moistened with equal Hollandaise sauce sharp with lemon juice, add 
parts of courtbouillon and chicken broth, a little chopped parsley; take a small oval plat- 
brought to the boil, skimmed; shred green pep-, ter, pipe a border of potato croquette mixture 
pers, sliced okras and peeled and sliced toma- around the edge, brush it with butter and brown 
toes then added, simmered for an hour, sea- it off in the oven or under a salamander; serve 
soned with salt, red pepper, herbs and white the oyster crabs in the center, 
wine, a spoonful of dry boiled rice placed in OYSTER CRABS FRIED Oyster crabs well 
each plate at time of serving. washed and drained, seasoned with salt and 

BISQUE OF CRABS Live crabs blanched as pepper, tossed in flour, thrown into cold milk, 

for "Creole style," meat removed and lightly then into sifted bread crumbs, fried in hot deep 

fried with minced shallots and a clove of garlic grease like whitebait, taken up, drained, 

in butter, moistened with fish broth and white sprinkled with salt; served in cases or crous- 

wine, brought to the boil, shells then added tades. 

with some well washed rice; when rice is OYSTER CRAB PATTIES Make the "oyster 

cooked, little roux added, the whole then rubbed crat)Si sauce p ou lette" above, fill small puff 

throuph a tamis or puree seive, brought to the boil paste patty s b e lls with the mixture ; serve with 

again, skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper some p ou lette sauce around the base, 

and sherry wine; served with small croutons. QYSTER CRABS, NEWBURG Well washed 

BISQUE OF CRABS, CREOLE STYLE-Boil and drained oyster C rabs sauteed in butter for 

half a pound of rice to each gallon of soup re- five m i nute s with some truffle trimmings, then 

quired, when done add its equal weight of is added some Madeira wine, reduce to one 

cooked crab meat, pound to a paste, adding hal{( tben work in a i iaison of egg yolks and 

half a cupful of melted butter and a flavor of crea m, shuffle about till thick and creamy; serve 

nutmeg, then rub it through a puree sieve; make either in a tureen or chafing dish, 

the soup stock of thin Veloute sauce, add the rice C RAB APPLES-A small sour apple used as a 

and crab puree, bring to a simmer, then add rvC( crvsta ii 2e d, or in jams or jellies, also 

sliced okras, minced red and green peppers, me dicinal cider. 

sliced peeled tomatoes, season with thyme, CRANBERRJES _ A small red fruit that when 

marjoram, red pepper and lemon mice, simmer ...... . , , , 

slowly for one hour and serve. raade int a sauce r Jelly 1S rdished ** 

BOILED SOFT SHELL CRABS-Live crabs ^ mtr ** accom P animent to roast ***?> 

with small claws and sand pouch removed, CRANBERRY PIE-Cranberries washed, then 

dropped into boiling salted water and simmered tQ ^ with and a Uttle water . 

ten minutes; served with VeloutS or parsley ^ hen donCi allowed tQ become cold; pie plates 

sauces. lined with short paste, spread with the cran- 

SOFT SHELL CRABS FRIED-Live crabs b ' err ies s trips of paste placed over the top, the 

with sand pouch removed, seasoned with salt te brushed with egg w ash, then baked, 

and pepper, dipped in milk, rolled in flour, CRANBERRY JAM _or sauce-is the preceding 

then in beaten eggs and again bread crumbs dowQ whh more J ^ 

fried in deep fat or slowly m butter; served T; : , t 

with tartar sauce, or with mayonnaise, garn- thick eD Ugh 4 "*"* * f ' 

ished with parsley and lemon. CRANBERRY JELLY- -Well washed cranber- 

SOFT SHELL CRABS BROILED-Prepared ries: tO ^f 11 ' bM * * M n * water ' P Ut 

and breaded as in the preceding, placed between to ^ d ^' led f f ^ " mnt ? 8 ' t 

, ,, ,. j . f ., . ., , mashed and squeezed through a 

a double hinged wire broiler, broiled and basted *J . J returned tQ g the fire 

with butter; served with tartar sauce, earn- --1,1 * 

ished with parsley and lemon. P ounds <* su ? ar < ^^"^ f J lon * ^ 

riTRRTFr. qnFT %HP-TT rRARQ Tu *i, berries, this is then rapidly boiled from fifteen 

D SOFT SHELL CRABS-Take the twen minu then d into molds and 

very small ones and boil them a few minutes, se ^ ed whh tufk Qr as a erve> 

then saute them with minced onion in butter, _,, -,_ T T . , ,. .. j L 

take up, and put into curry sauce, simmer a CRANBERRY ROLL - Light biscuit dough 

few minutes; served with a border of boiled sweetened and flavored, rolled out thin, spread 

rice in grains. with cranberry jam, rolled up, ends tucked in, 



TO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

placed in buttered French bread pans and the fire, flavored, turned into a wet pan, allowed 
baked; or steamed; or tied in a floured cloth, to become cold and firm, then cut into shapes, 
plunged into boiling water and boiled; served double breaded, fried, served with the follow- 
in slices with sweet sauce. ing cream sauce. 

CRANBERRY TARTLETTES Fancy sets of CREAM SAUCE Two thirds milk and one third 
gem pans lined with puff paste trimmings, cream mixed and sweetened, brought to the 

boil, then thickened to the consistency of 
double cream with a little corn starch moistened 
with cream and egg yolks, strained, finished 
with a glass of Madeira wine. 



spread with cranberry jam, baked; served for 
dessert. 

THERE ARE TIMES WHEN THE STEWARD 
CAN BUY GOOD SOUND CRANBERRIES 

VERY CHEAP; HE SHOULD THEN DO CREAM PUFFS Choux paste (see recipe) piped 
SO, FOR THEY CAN BE KEPT SOUND 
FOR MONTHS IF FILLED INTO JARS 
AND KEPT IN A COOL PLACE, COVERED 
WITH WATER THAT IS OCCASIONALLY 
REPLENISHED. 



into dome shapes on a baking sheet, baked, 
hole then made in side and filled with a cream, 
made as given for "cream fritters" above, but 
softer. 



WHIPPED CREAM Good, heavy cold cream 
CRAPAUDINE A French term applied to whipped till it stands like beaten whites of eggs: 
small birds that are split down the back, then 



trussed out resembling a frog, such as spring 



a squab " a la crapaudine" would be a squab 
split, spread out and trussed like a frog, broiled 
and served with crapaudine sauce. 
CRAYFISH Also called "crawfish " is a diminu- 
tive looking lobster, found plentifully in our 
rivers. In Europe they catch a sea crayfish and 
often sell it as a lobster; cur river crayfish on 

account of its form and color brings it into use BAVARIAN CREAM May also be made with 
as an artistic garniture, while the flesh from the an ec l ual qual " " 



used for beverages, desserts, as an accompani- 
ment to shortcake, etc. 

BAVARIAN CREAM The whipped creaw 
above, when firm is sweetened and flavored, 
then melted gelatine at the rate of two ounces 
to the gallon is worked in quickly, rapidly 
poured into molds, shook level, set in ice box 
till firm, turned out on a dish; served eithet 
plain, or with cake, fruit, compotes, etc. 



tail forms many delicate entries, salads and 
sauces, also soups, that are much thought of 
on the European continent. 

CREAM Spelled by the French "cr&ne" it is 
the oleaginous part of milk, and forms the most 
delicate soups, sauces, custards, creams, ices 
russes, souffles, cheeses and pastries. . , In 
general hotel routine, the cook uses the word* 
cream, when little or no cream at all is used 
and with the following recipes such "creams' 
will predominate. 

CREAM SAUCE Boiling milk, melted outterin 
a saucepan with as much flour as it will take 
up, stirred together, gradually moistened while 
stirring with the boiling milk, seasoned with 
salt, red pepper, nutmeg, and lastly, when re- 
moving from the fire, the juice of a lemon is 
added, strained through a fine strainer, and some 
pure cream then mixed in. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE Boiling chicken broth 
flavored with the liquor from canned mush- 
rooms, flour and butter mixed, moistened 
gradually with the boiling liquor while stirring, 
seasoned with red pepper, salt, lemon juice and 



the "cream fritter" mix- 
ture above and the preceding recipe. The ends 
and sides of the molds may be previously decor- 
ated with fruits, and the ornamental top of th 
mold with plain sweetened cream flavored and 
colored, set with gelatine; also the cream be- 
fore being poured into the molds may have 
candied peels, seedless raisins, pistachio nuts, 
almonds, marmalades, stewed and fresh fruits, 
pieces of wine jelly, etc. stirred in. The flavor- 
ings used are different syrups, liqueurs, es- 
sences, etc; also coffee, tea and chocolate. 



the best being made of pure cream sweetened 
and flavored, then strained into a freezer and 
frozen. The other way is to boil milk and 
sugar, thicken it with a liaison of egg yolks and 
cream, or cornstarch, then with eggs, or milk 
and eggs, thus forming a frozen custard (but 
which is called ice cream) ; again, others thick- 
en or stiffen boiling milk with gelatine, Irish 
moss, etc., then flavor and freeze. . . All the 
different kinds of ice cream seen on "bills of 
fare" have either of the foregoing as a basis, 
the flavors, colors, shapes, etc. given after- 
wards. 



nutmeg, strained through a fine strainer, one CREAM OF TARTAR A most valuable ingred- 



fourth of its bulk of pure cream then added. 
CREAM FRITTERS Boiling milk with a small 
piece of butter, sweetened to taste, thickened 
with corn starch mixed with cream, allowed to 
boil up again, then further thickened with a 
liaison of egg yolks and cream, removed from 



ient of baking powders. It is also, for feverish 
people, one of the most perfect of blood coolers 
when made into a drink as follows: Grate the 
rinds of three lemons and add the juice of them 
to a cupful of granulated sugar and three des- 
sert spoonfuls of cream of tartar; on this po-;f 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



three quarts of boiling water, allow to cool, 
strain, and it is ready for drinking. 

CRECY The name of a French city, celebrated 
for its carrots grown in the neighborhood. A 
soup is named after it, hence we have " Pure"e 
Crecy" which is puree" of carrots. 

CREPES- The French word for a kind of pan- 
cake, much used on festival occasions by the 
Latin race. 

CREPINETTES Small, flat sausages of various 
delicate morsels, wrapped in pigs caul; it is a 
French term, caul being called "Crepine" in 
French. 

CRESS Called by the French "cresson" hence, 
dishes seen on "bills of fare" with the attach- 
ment "au cresson" are garnished with cress, 
watercress being generally used. Besides being 
a handsome garniture, it makes a fine salad, 
eaten plain or with a sprinkling of salt, or with 
a little salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar. 
Watercress canapes are made of finely minced 
watercress worked into fresh butter, and then 
spread on thin slices of graham bread. 

CROMESKIES Also spelled "kromeskies" are 
a sort of fritter made of fish, flesh, game and 
fowl. The meats are made into a form of sal- 
picon or croquette mixture, when cold formed 
into cork shapes, then either rolled in a thin 
short paste, or fritter batter, fried crisp, garn- 
ished, sauced and served. An oyster cromesky 
is an oyster dried with a cloth, wrapped with a 
a thin slice of parboiled bacon, pinned with a 
toothpick, dipped in batter and fried; when 
cooked, the toothpick removed before serving. 

CROQUETTES A mince of some cooked food, 
such as beef, lamb, mutton, veal, pork, sweet- 
breads, lobster, ham, all kinds of game, poultry 
etc., blended with a high seasoning, and asauce 
to bind it with; when cold, it is made into 
forms, such as cones, rolls, balls, cutlets, etc., 
rolled in flour, then breaded, fried in hot fat a 
golden color; served with sauces and garnitures 
that are appropriate to the food used. 

CROUSTADES-Are hollow crusts made with 
bread, pastry, or a mixture of flour, eggs and 
watergrain; they are used as receptacles for 
savories and sweets, such as oysters, oyster 
crabs, lobster, frogs, terrapin, sweetbreads, 
lamb, chicken livers, fresh mushrooms, all 
kinds of garnitures, mace'doine of vegetables, 
green peas; also sherbets, frozen punches, 
whipped cream, ice cream forms, fruit and 
wine jellies, etc. 

CROUTE-AU-POT Is literally crust in pot or 

. soup. It is a broth containing slices of carrot 
turnip, cabbage, and pieces of toast, the broth 
is generally made from roast meat bones with a 
piece of bacon or ham knuckle thrown in. 

CROUTONS As the word is used in a culinary 
sense, are pieces of bread cut in the size and 



shape of dice, fried in hot fat, or browned in 
the oven, to serve with soup; or slices of bread 
cut into block forms and fried, used to support 
small birds, etc. ; or slices of bread cut into 
fancy shapes and fried, then used to garnish 
hashes, minces, etc.; also used in connection 
with shapes cut or stamped out of aspic jelly' 
used to garnish salads and cold decorated foods. 

CUCUMBERS Are a vegetable fruit that is fav- 
orably received by the majority of guests, eaten 
plain with a seasoning of salt, pepper, and a lit- 
tle grated onion to offset the bilious effects. 

CREAMED CUCUMBERS Peeled, cut in 
slices X i nc h thick, steamed for a few minutes, 
then put into a Bechamel sauce, simmered till 
done; served either as a garnish or vegetable. 

GLAZED CUCUMBERS ON TOAST Peeled, 
cut in slices ^ inch thick, boiled till tender in 
salted water, taken up and drained, then dipped 
in hot glaze; served overlapping each other on 
a slice of buttered toast. 

FRICASSEE OF CUCUMBERS Peeled, cut 
lengthwise in finger lengths, then simmered in 
clear broth with a little sugar till tender, taken 
up and drained, then placed into Hollandaise 
sauce sharp with either lemon juice or white 
wine vinegar, to which has been added a sea- 
soning of Worcestershire sauce. 

BLANQUETTE OF CUCUMBERS Peeled, 
cut in slices # inch thick; steamed; then placed 
in a rich Ve'loute' sauce, simmered; served in 
the centre of a border of green peas. 

STUFFED CUCUMBERS WITH FORCE- 
MEAT Peeled, cut in slices an inch thick, 
cored, steamed, dipped into Veloute' sauce, ar- 
ranged on hot toast, the tops sprinkled with 
parsley dust, the holes then filled from a forc- 
ing bag and tube with a rich forcemeat of what- 
ever is on hand. 

CURRIED CUCUMBERS Cucumbers peeled 
and cored, cut into two-inch lengths, stuffed 
with mutton forcemeat, rolled in flour, quickly 
fried in butter, then arranged in a sautoir, cov- 
ered with curry sauce, simmered till tender; 
served with grains of boiled rice. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS WITH MARROW Cu- 
cumbers peeled and cored; marrow bones sawn 
into two-inch lengths and the marrow removed; 
cucumbers cut into two-inch lengths; both are 
then steamed for a few minutes, marrow then 
rolled into minced chives, chervil, tarragon and 
shallots, and inserted into the cucumber, which 
is then breaded and fried; served with cucum- 
ber sauce. 

PUREE OF CUCUMBERS Cucumbers peeled, 
then parboiled in boiling salted water, taken up 
and drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, simmered in clarified butter> 
little more flour added to form a roux, moist- 
ened with boiling milk, boiled up, the whole 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



then passed through a pure'e sieve; if to be used CURRY Name of a yellow powder composed gen- 
for soup, it is thinned to the desired consis- erally of turmeric, coriander seeds, cardamons, 

cumin seeds, red pepper, ginger, garlic, chillies, 
cinnamon and black pepper; used in making 
mulligatawney soups, and in flavoring food 
sauces that are called curries. 



tency with equal parts of white stock and milk, 
and seasoned with nutmeg and sugar. 
CUCUMBER SALAD Sliced cucumbers steeped 
in salted water and ice for an hour, then 



drained, dished up alternately with slices of CURING-By a safe and simple method applica 



pickled beet and quartered hard boiled eggs, 
dressed with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. 

CUCUMBER AND ONION SALAD Sliced 
cucumbers steeped in salted ice water for an 
hour, a few spring onions also sliced; cucum- 
bers drained, then mixed with the onions; 
served with salad cream dressing. 

CUCUMBERS, FRENCH STYLE Slice the 
cucumbers very thin, steep them in salted water 
for several hours, then drain and mix with 
French dressing containing some chopped tar- 
ragon; serve on a crisp leaf of lettuce. 

CUCUMBER KETCHUP Large cucumbers 
peeled and cored, then grated; to each gallon of 
pulp after being drained, is mixed half a gallon 
of cider vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of red pep- 
per, eight teaspoonfuls of salt, and one pint of 
fresh grated horseradish; when thoroughly in- 
corporated it is bottled and sealed. 

PICKLED CUCUMBERS Small pickling cu- 
cumbers select and firm, well washed and wiped; 
take 400 of them and put them in crocks; make 
a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato 
the size of an egg, pour it over them at boiling 
point and let them stand for 24 hours, then re- 
move, wipe, and put into clean crocks and cover 
with hot vinegar spiced with cloves, mace, onion, 
and a % pound of mustard seed. 
CUMIN Name of a seed used in Europe as a 
flavoring for stews, in cheeses, and by the Ger- 
mans in bread. 

CURACOA Name of a liqueur made from bitter 
orange peel; in cookery is used as a flavoring to 
sweet sauces, creams, jellies, and blanc-manges. 
CURD Is the basis of cheese; the solid part 
of milk; used by confectioners in producing 
cheese cakes, blanc-manges, curds and whey, 
curd pudding, curd puffs, etc. 

CURRANTS Are of three colors and flavors 
red, white and black; they all make good pies; 
the white and red are also cooked in syrup, 
bottled, and named "Bar-le-duc" jelly; the black 
make fine jams and jellies, wine, vinegar, gin. 

DRIED CURRANTS Are a different variety, a 



ble to country hotels and small institutions, of 
hams and bacon. The conditions under which 
the curing of bacon may be conducted success- 
fully is a uniform coolness in cellar, a uniform 
strength of pickle, thorough cleanliness, the 
cellar temperature should not exceed 50 degrees 
F. Bacon is cured by simply rubbing the sides 
with powdered salt to which has been added a 
little saltpetre, then placing on the cellar floor; 
they are then covered with salt to which has 
been added 5 per cent, of saltpetre, and al- 
lowed to lie for a week. The salt is then re- 
moved, 'and the sides turned, rubbed again with 
salt, saltpetre and a little sugar, and allowed to 
lie covered with a fresh quantity of salt and 
saltpetre for another week; the salt is then all 
removed, and the sides are either hung up to 
dry, or allowed to lie in the cellar for another 
week, after which the bacon is ready in the 
"green state" ; or it may then be smoked. 
The best smoking materials are oak dust, oak 
chips, peat, wheat straw, ash dust, "or chips of 
other hard woods; the two of greatest value 
are the oak dust and peat, each imparting a 
characteristic flavor. The word sides is used 
allowing for whole halves of the bacon hog; but 
if bellies alone are required, the process is the 
same. 

CUSTARD Name applied to a mixture of eggs, 
milk and sugar, mixed together, then baked, 
steamed or boiled. The best proportion is: to 
each quart of milk, work ID eight beaten eggs, 
six ounces of sugar, then flavor; or the milk 
may be boiled with a flavoring, then allowed to 
cool; the custard to be in perfect condition 
must only be allowed to reach the boiling or 
settling point, as if allowed to cook longer it 
will disintegrate and become watery. 

CUTLETS Are really rib chops of lamb, pork, 
mutton and veal, but the term is also applied to 
neatly trimmed slices of the same meats; also 
to a slice cut an inch thick right across the 
middle of a leg of mutton; the term is also ap- 
plied to breasts of chicken, game and poultry; 
imitation cutlets are also made of croquette 
mixtures shaped into rib chop form. 



sort of small seedless grape that grows wild in CZARINA Name of a Russian sauce often 

parts of Greece; they are ripened on the vine, served in that country with boiled tongue. It 

then picked and packed into barrels, forming is composed of a good Espagnole sauce con tair.- 

a solid mass, and exported all over the world; in* minced gherkins, seedless raisins and lemon 

they are used in puddings, mince-meat, sauces, juice, simmered till the raisins are soft, 

pickles, dumplings, cakes, buns, pancakes, and DAMSON The name of a peculiar flavored small 

also made into a cheap wine. blue plum that if eaten raw would contract tne 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



73 



jaws; it is therefore always served in a cooked centre; sometimes called "Berlin pancakes" or 

condition, in which form it is rich and delicious; "brioche fritters"; " alaDauphine" is used by 

it makes a fine preserve, jam, jelly, wine, com- some cooks when decorating food with dauphine 

pote, pudding, pie and tartlette. cakes. 

DANDELION Or as the French call it "dent- DEMI-GLAZE Is half glaze, or glaze mixed to 

de-lion" dent meaning tooth, inasmuch as its form a bright jellied gravy, 

pecuilar shaped leaves resemble lions' teeth. It DEVILS Devilled fish, meat, bones, etc., such 

makes a very pleasant salad, either by itself or as pork spareribs, ham, lobster meat, sardines, 

mixed with other salad leaves. The leaves kidneys, boned legs of cooked poultry, salmon 

should be gathered before the sun is strong steaks, etc., are the articles highly seasoned, or 

enough to toughen them. The most simple way spread with a highly seasoned paste, then broiled 

of serving and that mostly liked, is dandelion an d served with or without a pungent sauce ap- 

leaves with French dressing; dandelion leaves propriate to the food. 

and sorrel in equal parts, the dandelion cooked DIABLOTINS The French term for small balls 

half done before the sorrel leaves are added; of swee tmeats generally composed of almond 

is used as a vegetable by the French. paste rice pastei and grat ed orange peel, made 

DARIOLES The name of a small plain or fluted into balls, fried in very hot lard, drained, then 

mold, these are lined with thin paste, then filled rolled in flavored powdered sugar; also balls of 

with a cheese cake mixture, sweet custard mix- the mixture given for cheesestraws with an egg 

ture or whipped cream, turned out when done, yo lk added, then floured and fried, taken up and 

and served like a small charlotte russe. rolled in grated cheese. 

DARNE Name sometimes seen on "bills of fare." DIAMOND BACK Name of the terrapin that 

It is the French word for slice, and is generally inhabits the salt marshes of the Chesapeake, 

used in the term "Darne de saumon" which is and is generally sold by the inch, 7 to 8 inches 

a salmon steak. being in the best of condition, and bringing the 

D'ARTOIS Is the name given to a certain kind highest price, from $6 to $10 each, 

of cake made with puff paste and marmalade; DIGESTION Is something that every cook 

also in meat cookery to a sheet of puff paste should study. Foods cooked in different ways, 

spread with a salpicon of fish forcemeat, cray- digest in different times, the following table is 

fish tails, eel livers, oysters and mushrooms, medically correct. 

another sheet is laid on top, edges pinched to- A TABLE SHOWING THE TIME REQUIRED 

gether, brushed over with egg wash, baked; TQ D iQES T THE DIFFERENT FOODS 

served in slices twice as long as wide, on a folded WHEN COOKED IN DIFFERENT 

napkin. WAYS. 

DATES The fruit of the palm tree; the fruit in c a 

its green state is like a soft green pulp; when W 3 

the tree is in flower, the native Arabs bore into Pork steak broiled 3-15 

the stem and draw the sap, which they call fat and lean. roasted S -'5 

, . , , . . . " recently salted raw 3-00 

palm milk, and ferment it into wine, much the ,, ,, ,. stewed -t-oo 

same as we draw the syrup from the maple tree . .. '.'/.broiled 3-15 

and convert it into sugar. Dates may be sub- fried 4-15 

stituted for figs in cakes. They make a pretty " boiled 4-30 

show on the fruit stand with slices of angelica; Turkey, wild roasted 2-18 

also opened and the stone removed, and in its tame 

place a piece of walnut, the date then rolled in boiled 2-25 

XSX- fuu' g ;own::::::::::::::S d ^ 

DATE PUDDING-One pound of chopped beef Fowls, domestic boiled 4^0 

suet, % pound of stoned dates, 14 ounces of " " roasted 4-00 

grated bread, i^ ounces of baking powder, 12 Ducks, tame roasted 4-00 

ounces of flour, one grated nutmeg, two eggs wi '^ roasted 4-30 

and enough milk to make a medium mixture, S up ' |" rley boiled 1-30 

poured into molds, steamed three hours; served .. *f n ' ,, 

with wine sauce. ., muuon" .'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'. - 3^ 

DAUBE Name given to a strong meat seasoning oyster " 3-30 

of salt, powdered herbs, pepper and spices; " beef, vegetables and bread.. " 4-00 

used to roll strips of larding pork in prior to in- ' marrowbones 4-10 

serting. The meat larded and daubed is named " *<> d t " 

"beefaladaube." Brains.' animal.'.'.' 1^ 

DAUPHINE A French term applied to a cake Spinal marrow, animal - 3-40 

of the doughnut variety that has jelly in the Liver, (beef), fresh broiled a-oo 



74 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Heart, (animal) fried 

Cartilage boiled 

Tendon " 

Hash, meat and vegetables warmed 

Sausage, fresh broiled 

Gelatine 

Cheese, old, strong raw 

Green corn boiled 

' beans 

Beans, pod 

Parsnips .' 

Potatoes roasted 

baked 

boiled 

Cabbage raw 

" with vinegar " 

boiled 

Carrots " 

Turnips, white " 

Beets " 

Bread, corn baked 

Bread, wheat, fresh " 

Apples, sweet, mellow raw 

" sour, " " 

hard " 

Milk boiled 

raw 

Eggs, fresh " 

" whipped 

. ...roasted 



4 oo 



.soft boiled 3-00 



3-30 



hard " 

fried 

Custard baked 

Codfish, cured (dry) boiled 

Trout, salmon (fresh) 

fried 

Bass, striped " broiled 

Flounder " fried 

Catfish " " 

Salmon, salted boiled 

Oysters, fresh raw 

roasted 

' stewed 

Venison, steak broiled 

Pig (suckling) roasted 

Lamb, fresh broiled 

Beef, fresh, lean, (dry) roasted 

Beef (with mustard) boiled 

Beef (with salt only) " 

Beef fried 

Beef, fresh, lean, (rare) roasted 

Beef iteak broiled 

Mutton, fresh " 

boiled 

; roasted 

Veal " : .....broiled 

fried 

DINDON Is the French word for turkey; 

donneaux" is the French word for the spring 
turkey used for broiling, weighing 4 to 6 pounds. 

DOLMAS A term applied to leaves of cabbage 
parboiled, containing balls of forcemeat, and 

- served generally with rissoto. Take 50 cabbage 
leaves, boil them for ten minutes, drain, make 
50 balls of forcemeat size of a walnut, place in 
centre of the leaf, wrap the leaf around, arrange 



them in a sautoir, pour over some rich chicken 
stock and a little melted butter, place the cover 
on and reduce to a glaze, arrange a little rissoto 
at each end of the serving dish, place the dolmas 
in the centre and pour the glaze over. 

3-30 DOUGHBIRDS Are plentiful on the coasts; 

3-*5 they are about 1% pounds in weight, when 
in prime condition, have a bill like a snipe, are 
delicious eating broiled, roasted or in a salmis. 
DUCKS AND DUCKLINGS That is the domes- 
tic ones, are in season all the year round, the 
duckling being in its best form about June. 

3-3 BOILED DUCK, PARSLEY SAUCE Ducks 
singed and drawn, second joint of wings and 
feet removed, washed, filled with a stuffing of 
dry breadcrumbs mixed with salt, pepper, 
chopped parsley, nutmeg and grated lemon rind, 
trussed, then simmered till tender in seasoned 
white stock; served with parsley sauce. 
-30 BONED STUFFED DUCK WITH ASPIC 

3-00 Two ducks singed, split down the backs, boned, 

2 ~5 laid out flat, skin side down, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, one of them spread with 
forcemeat, the meat of the other placed on top, 
skin then drawn together, sewn, then either 
roasted or braised till tender, taken up, pressed 
between two boards till cold, trimmed and 
glazed; served in slices with aspic. 

3-3 ROAST DUCK, ORANGE SAUCE Ducks 

2 ~-*5 singed and drawn; filled with a stuffing made of 
dry breadcrumbs, blanched minced onions, 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a 
sour apple grated; truss, steam till firm and 
plump (about half an hour) then roast and baste 
till brown and tender; served with sauce made 
of finely minced onion and bacon fried slowly 
till tender; add them to a rich poultry gravy 
containing port wine and the grated rind and 
juice of an orange. 

ROAST DUCK WITH PEAS, HANOVER 
SAUCE Ducks singed, drawn and washed, 
filled with a stuffing made of dry breadcrumbs, 
minced fried onions and bacon, also the heart 
and liver of the ducks, chopped parsley, salt, 
pepper and sage; truss, steam half an hour, 
then roast and baste till brown and tender; 
serve with green peas at one end of the dish 
and Hanover sauce at the other, made as fol- 
lows: poultry livers boiled, then rubbed through 
a sieve, added to a VeUoute 1 or cream sauce, sea- 
soned with lemon juice and Cayenne pepper. 



5-5 
2-30 
3-20 
2-30 



3-45 
2-30 
2-30 
2-30 
2-30 
2-30 



4-3 
3-13 
3-3 
3-45 
3-15 
3-30 



2-00 
3-15 
2-00 
1-30 

2-15 



2-00 
I- 3 
1-30 

3-oo 

3-30 
3-30 

4-00 

3-55 

3-15 

3-4 

i-35 

2-30 

2-30 

3-39 

3-10 

3-36 

4-00 

3-0 

3-0 

3-oo 

3-oo 

3-iS 

4-00 

4-30 

'din- BROILED DUCKLING WITH DEVILLED 
BUTTER Duckling singed, second joint of 
wing removed, split down the back, drawn, 
breastbone removed, laid out flat, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, slowly grilled till done and 
brown; served on a slice of toast, with devilled 
butter spread over the bird, garnish with cress 
and lemon * * * * Devilled butter; to each four 
ounces of butter work in a level teaspoon ful of 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



75 



Cayenne pepper and half a teaspoon ful of black, 
X of a teaspoonful each of ground ginger and 
curry powder, and a little finely chopped chervil 
or parsley. 

SAUTE OF DUCK WITH OLIVES Ducks 
singed, drawn, washed and steamed for half an 
hour, taken up, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brushed with melted butter, then rolled in flour, 
quickly browned and basted in hot oven, taken 
up, cut into portions; little minced onion lightly 
fried in butter, flour added to form a roux, 
moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and 
skimmed, ducks then added, also halves of 
stoned olives, simmered till ducks are tender, 
sauce seasoned and finished with little orange 
juice and port wine; served garnished with 
croutons. 

STEWED DUCKS WITH GREEN PEAS 



strainer over the ducks in another sautoir, sim- 
mered till tender; served garnished with slices 
of fried hominy. 

SAUTE Ot DUCK WITH CHESTNUTS 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, steamed for 
half an hour, then cut into joints, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, powdered sage and thyme, 
rolled in flour, fried brown with bacon fat, taken 
up and drained, then put into a brown sauce to- 
gether with the minced giblets and some roasted 
and peeled chestnuts, simmer till tender, finish 
with port wine; served garnished with the chest- 
nuts and a fancy crouton. 

SALPICON OF DUCK IN CASES Cold braised 
duck and some of the sauce, the duck cut into 
small neat pieces with a few mushrooms, re- 
heated in the sauce; served in fancy paper 
cases on lace paper. 



Ducks singed, drawn and washed, lightly but 

quickly browned in oven, taken up and cut in CURRY OF DUCK WITH RICE-Ducks singed, 

drawn and washed, steamed for half an hour, 
taken up, jointed, rubbed with curry powder, 
rolled in flour; onions sliced and fried a light 
brown in butter, taken up, joints then fried in 
the same butter, onions then returned, flour 
added, shook together, moistened with poultry 
stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, curry powder 



portions, small pieces of bacon fried with some 
small cut spring onions; when brown, flour 
added to form a roux, moistened with poultry 
stock, boiled up and skimmed, ducks then added, 
with a few sprigs of green mint, simmered till 
tender, mint removed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper; served with a crouton at ends of dish, 
green peas at sides. 

BRAISED DUCK WITH VEGETABLES 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, brasiere lined 
with thin slices of fat bacon, on which is placed 
slices of onion and turnip, carrot and pieces of 



grated green apple, the juice and grated rind of 
an orange, simmered till tender, duck then 
taken up into another saucepan, the sauce 
strained over it; served garnished with small 
molds of dry boiled rice. 



celery, a few cloves, bay leaves, whole peppers STEWED DUCK WITH TURNIPS Ducks 



and some sage leaves; ducks arranged on top 
moistened with white stock and the juice of a 
lemon with its grated rind, lid put on, braised 
and basted in oven till brown and tender, ducks 
then taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, 
poured over the ducks in serving pan; Julienne 
vegetables sauteed and seasoned; served, por- 
tions of duck with sauce over, garnished with 
croutons at ends of dish and the Julienne vege- 
tables at the sides. 

SALMIS OF DUCK IN CROUSTADE Neat 
shaped slices of cold duck made hot in a thick 
Madeira sauce, to which is added slices of mush- 
rooms and callops of salt pork that have been 
fried together, the sauce to be seasoned with 
powdered sage and orange juice; served in paste 
croustade cases, on lace paper. 

SALMIS OF DUCK WITH FRIED HOMINY 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, floured, roasted and basted 
till brown and frothy, taken up and cut into por- 
tions; in the meantime the trimmings of the 
birds are sauteed in olive oil with minced shall 
lots, chives, thyme and bay leaves, then moist- 
ened with white wine and reduced; equal quan- 
tities of Bigarade and Espagnole sauce then 
added with a few minced mushrooms, the whole 
boiled up and skimmed; poured through a 



singed, drawn and washed, steamed for half an 
hour, taken up, rolled in flour, fried whole in 
butter, taken up and cut into portions; large 
balls of turnip fried in butter, taken up and 
placed with the duck; in the remaining butter 
is then fried some minced shallots with sage 
and thyme leaves, flour added to form a roux, 
moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and 
skimmed, strained over the ducks and turnips, 
which are then simmered till tender; served 
garnished with the turnips and croutons. 
BRAISED DUCK WITH SAUERKRAUT 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, then trussed, 
arranged in brasiere with carrots, onion stuck 
with cloves, celery and parsley, moistened with 
seasoned white stock, covered with buttered 
paper, lid put on, braised till tender and glazy, 
taken up, braise strained and skimmed, ducks 
cut into portions and the braise strained over 
them. Sauerkraut well washed, put in a sautoir 
with a piece of bacon, a piece of small bologna, 
carrot, onion and parsley, moistened with some 
fat and broth from the stock pot, stewed slowly 
for two hours, then taken up and drained; vege- 
tables thrown away, bacon and sausage cut in 
slices; served, portions of duck flanked with the 
the kraut and garnished with the bacon and 
sausage. 



?6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

FILLETS OF DUCKLING, MACEDOINE parsley and bay leaves; when tender, taken up 
Ducklings singed, drawn and washed, then and cut into portions, the broth reduced to a 
steamed for ten minutes to plump them, taken half glaze with the addition of some Ve"loute" 
up, cooled, cut into four fillets, the backbones sauce, dried green peas boiled with a few sprigs 
then roasted with vegetables; when brown, of mint and a little sugar; when done, rubbed 
moistened with Bigarade sauce, boiled up and through a sieve, then mixed to a stiff consist- 
strained over a cooked macedoine of vegetables, ency with the reduced sauce; serve the duck 
the fillets seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered in portions masked with the peas puree, 
sage and thyme, rolled in flour, arranged in STUFFED DUCK, ITALIAN SAUCE Ducks 
buttered baking pan, roasted and basted till singed, drawn, washed, filled with a mixture of 
brown and frothy; served on a crouton garnished breadcrumbs mixed with small pieces of fried 
with the macedoine in sauce. lirer and bacon, thyme, truffles, seasoned with 

FRIED FILLETS OF DUCKLING, SAUCE salt, pepper and powdered sage, bound with 

BIGARADE Ducklings prepared as in the pre- egg yolks, trussed, steamed for half an hour, 

ceding, but instead of roasting, fried a golden taken up, rolled in flour, arranged in buttered 

color with butter; served on toast with Bigarade baking pan, roasted and basted till tender; 

sauce poured over, garnished with watercress. served in portions with the stuffing under, and 

ROAST SPRING DUCK, APPLE SAUCE Italian sauce (brown) poured over. 

Young ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, SCALLOPED DUCKS' LIVERS Livers sliced, 

steamed for five minutes, taken up, seasoned, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed spices, 

rolled in flour, arranged in baking pan, roasted sauteed in butter with a few minced shallots 

and basted till done; served in portions with and mushrooms, chopped parsley and a minced 

unsweetened stewed apples that have been clove of garlic, pour off the remaining butter, 

rubbed through a sieve. add a few grated breadcrumbs, moisten lightly 

STUFFED DUCKLING, ORANGE SAUCE with Bigarade sauce, fill into deep oval or seal- 
Ducklings singed, drawn, washed, filled with a lo P dishes or shells, sprinkle with sifted 
stuffing composed of fresh grated breadcrumbs, crumbs, baste with batter, brown off the top 
grated apple and lemon rind, seasoned with and serve. 

salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little sage BROCHETTE OF DUCKS' LIVERS Livers 
trussed, then steamed for ten minutes, arranged sliced, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed 
in a baking pan, dredged with flour, roasted spices, lightly sauteed with butter, then run on 
and basted till done; served with a brown sauce > skewer alternately with thin slices of par- 
made in the pan they were roasted in, flavored boiled bacon; when skewer is full, rolled in 
with grated sour orange rind and its juice. melted butter, then in sifted breadcrumbs, 

SAUTE OF DUCK WITH NOODLES Ducks broiled till done; served on a strip of toast 

singed, drawn, washed and trussed, steamed with Hanover sauce at the sides, garnished 

for half an hour, taken up and cut into portions, with cress and lemon - 

seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered sage, STEWED DUCKS' GIBLETS IN BORDER- - 

rolled in flour, fried in butter, placed in a Livers and hearts sliced and sauteed with but- 

sautoir, dredged with flour, moistened with thin ter . gizzards sliced and simmered in white 

Bigarade sauce, simmered nil tender; noodles seasoned stock till tender, then taken up and 

boiled till done, taken up and drained, then drained; hearts, livers and gizzards then mixed 

mixed with a. little minced chervil, and the > nto a mushroom sauce; simmered till done; 

ducks' giblets minced and sauteed; served, the fancy border of mashed potatoes arranged on 

duck in portions flanked with the noodles. serving dish one inch from the edge, giblets 

STEWED DUCK WITH STUFFED TOMA- placed in the centre, with green peas around 

TOES Ducks singed, drawn and washed, the potatoes. 

filled with a stuffing composed of grated bread- DUCKS' GIBLET SOUP- Made the same as 

crumbs mixed with minced ham, mushrooms, chicken giblet soup (which see) substituting the 

anchovies, shallot, parsley, salt and pepper, ducks' giblets. 

trussed, steamed for ten minutes, arranged in D'UXELLES Name of a very thick sauce gen- 

sautoir, moistened with stock and white wine, erally used to coat cutlets before breading 

lid put on, simmered till done; served with the them, composed of ]^ each chopped parsley 

stuffing under each portion, garnished with and minced fried shallots and ^ minced sau- 

stuffed small tomatoes, tomato sauce poured teed mushooms, all worked into a thick Ve'loute' 

around. sauce; or instead of ^ minced mushrooms, % 

STEWED DUCK WITH PUREE OF PEAS need only be used and the other % be minced 

Ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, cooked ham or tongue. 

stewed till tender in white stock containing a DUTCH SAUCE Another name for Hollan- 

few cloves, a clove of garlic, onion, thyme, daise sauce, which is made by taking half a 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 77 

cupful of white sauce and working into it a drained, breaded, fried; served with shrimp 

small piece of glace, half a cupful of melted sauce. 

butter, 6 yolks of eggs, bringing it slowly to a MATELOTE OF EELS River eels skinned, 

custard-like thickness over a medium fire, then cut into finger lengths, seasoned with salt and 
seasoning it with salt, nutmeg and lemon juice. 



ECARLATE A French term often seen on bills 
of fare as "a 1'ecarlate. It is used to signify 
that the food is red, and its natural color pre- 
served. 

ECLAIRS A hollow form made of "choux- 
paste" that is filled with pastry cream, with the 
top generally coated with chocolate glaze. 

EELS Are of two kinds, the river or fresh water 
eel, and the sea or conger eel. The flesh of 



pepper, rolled in flour, lightly fried in butter, 
taken up, add to the butter they are fried in 
some white or red wine, thyme, marjoram, fish 
stock, red pepper, a few cloves and minced 
shallots, rapidly reduce; then is added Ve'loute' 
sauce, boiled up, skimmed, strained over the 
eels in another sautoir, finished by adding some 
button mushrooms, blanched oysters or mussels, 
and season with lemon juice; served garnished 
with fancy crofitons. 



the river eel is sweet, fine grained and dainty; FRICASSEE OF EELS River eels skinned, 



that of the sea eel is coarse grained and oily; 
they must always be skinned before using: to 
do which a little silver sand is used to hold the 
the eel by the head. With a sharp knife make 
a circle round the neck, force down the skin an 
inch or so, and then with a steady pull the skin 
will strip off easily. 
STEWED EELS, LONDON STYLE A most 



cut into finger lengths, put to boil in fish stock 
with a little white wine, an onion stuck with 
cloves, a few minced shallots, bunch of herbs, 
salt and whole peppers; when done, taken up 
into a sautoir, the liquor reduced, then strained 
into a thick Hollandaise sauce, containing 
chopped parsley; eels placed into the finished 
sauce; served with a garnish of fancy crofitons. 



simple and dainty dish, made by cutting river BROCHETTE OF EELS, TARTAR SAUCE 

eels into two-inch lengths, boiling them till For recipe, see heading of Brochette. 

done in a parsley butter sauce seasoned with BRAISED EELS, ALLEMANDE SAUCE 



salt, pepper and a little vinegar; served in soup 
plates with bread and butter. 
GRILLED EELS, LONDON STYLE River 
eels skinned, coiled round and kept in shape 
with a small skewer, dipped into beaten eggs, 
then coated with a mixture of grated bread- 
crumbs, lemon rind, chopped parsley and 
thyme leaves, salt, pepper, nutmeg; broiled a 
golden color and served with horseradish, with 
the option of tartar sauce. 

BAKED EELS, LONDON STYLE River eels 



River eels skinned and cut into finger lengths, 
sprinkled with salt, allowed to remain with the 
salt on for half an hour, then washed in cold 
water, drained, arranged in a sautoir with a 
little butter, parsley, whole peppers, slices of 
lemon, minced shallots, salt, pepper, nutmeg 
and a few slices of bacon, moistened with a lit- 
tle fish stock and braised till done, taken up in- 
to another sautoir, braise strained and skimmed, 
then mixed into Allemande sauce which is 
poured over the eels; served with them, garn- 
ished with crofltons. 



skinned, coiled round, pinned into shape with 

a skewer, coated with D'Uxelles sauce, rolled BROILED BONED EELS River eels skinned 

and cut into finger lengths, split down the back 
and the bone removed, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and nutmeg, dipped in beaten egg, then 
rolled in sifted breadcrumbs, seasoned with 
powdered herbs and pepper, broiled and basted 



in breadcrumbs, arranged in a buttered baking 
pan, the inside of the coil filled with a piping 
of fish forcemeat; brushed with butter, baked a 
golden brown; served with Admiral sauce. 
BOILED EELS. MAITRE D'HOTEL River 
eels cut into finger lengths, boiled fifteen min- 
utes in salted water; served with a border of 



till done; served on toast with anchovy butter, 

garnished with lemon. 

mashed potatoes, with some Maitre D'Hotel ORLY OF EELS Prepared and boned as in 
butter poured over the eels. the preceding, but instead of breading they are 



ROAST EELS, ANCHOVY BUTTER River 
eels skinned, coiled, fastened with skewers, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, wrapped in but- 
tered paper, roasted in medium oven till done, 
taken up, paper removed, spread with anchovy 
butter; served very hot with a sprig of parsley 
and slice of lemon inside the coiled eel. 

FRIED EELS. SHRIMP SAUCE River eels 
skinned, cut into finger lengths; marinade them 
over night in a mixture of vinegar, grated lemon 
rind, salt, pepper and thyme, then taken up, 



dipped in batter, fried, and served with rings of 
crisp fried onions. 

EEL SALAD River eels skinned and boned, cut 
into short finger lengths, laid in salted water 
for an hour, then taken up and wiped dry, ar- 
ranged in baking pan, sprinkled with salt, pep- 
per and mixed ground spices, moistened with 
water and a little vinegar, adding a little dis- 
solved gelatine, bake till done and glazy; served 
cold masked with ravigote or tartar sauce, 
garnished with slices of cucumber. 



78 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

ROAST STUFFED CONGER EEL, ADMIRAL melted butter dripped over the eggs, placed in 

SAUCE Portion cuts skinned and boned, oven till set. 

laid for two hours in salted vinegar with SCRAMBLED EGGS Four-fifths broken eggs 

chopped sweet herbs, taken up, filled with veal ( no t beaten), one fifth cream, seasoned with salt 

stuffing, tied round with string, rolled in flour, an d little melted butter, ladleful (made to hold 

arranged in baking pan, roasted and basted till three eggs) poured into hot buttered frying pan, 

done; served with Admiral sauce. stirred about or shook till softly set; served 

BOILED CONGER EEL, ALLEMANDE either plain or on buttered toast. 

SAUCE Portion cuts skinned and boned, tied POACHED EGGS Eggs removed from shell, 

round with string, blanched, then placed in dropped into simmering salted water contain- 

sautoir with bay leaves, onions, parsley, whole i ng a dash of vinegar; when set, taken up 

peppers, little garlic, salt and vinegar; cover drained; served plain or on buttered toast, 

with water, simmered till done taken up and CURRIED EGG S-H a rd boiled eggs with their 

drained; served with Allemande sauce, garn- shells iem reheated - n a cu sauce made 

ishedw,th parsley and lemon. from u stQck; bed Qf ric(j - n centre 

FRIED CONGER EEL, TARTAR SAUCE- o{ dish sprinkled with finely chopped parsley; 

Portion cuts skinned and boned, steamed for whh the back o{ a spoon indentures made to 

ten minutes, then seasoned with salt and pep- receive the eggs; served with the sauce poured 

per, breaded, fried; served with Tartar sauce, arou nd the base, 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 

CURRIED CONGER EEL WITH RICE-Por- STUFFED EGGS-Hard boiled eggs with their 
tion cuts skinned and boned, marinaded for an she " s rem ? d ' s P ht gAwise. yolks removed 
hour in salt water and vinegar, taken up, and P ounded Wlth a chov y meat and bu " er ' 
rinsed in cold water, wiped dry, seasoned with fi^ back into the whites, smoothed over, dec- 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried with but- orated and served ' 

ter, removed into a sautoir; minced onions, DEVILLED EGGS Hard boiled eggs with their 

chives and a clove of garlic fried in the remain- shells removed, split in halves lengthwise, 

ing butter, flour added to form a roux, moist- dipped in beaten egg, then in oil, sprinkled with 

ened with fish stock, brought to the boil and salt and red pepper, arranged in baking pan on 

skimmed, then simmered for half an hour; the a sheet of oiled paper, thoroughly heated; 

eels sprinkled with curry powder, sauce served on toast with sauce Diable poured over, 

strained over them, simmered till done, finished into which has been mixed some Bengal chut- 

with cayenne pepper and lemon juice; served ney. 

inside a^border of dry boiled grains of rice. MASKED EGGS, MADEIRA SAUCE Hard 

EEL-POUT Is a combination of eel, catfish and boiled eggs with the shells removed, coated 

some other kind of fish; breeds its young alive with chicken forcemeat, then dipped into beaten 

instead of with eggs; is more of ten called the egg, baked; served with Madeira sauce poured 

"BURBOT". It is good boiled and served with over, garnished with fancy croutons, 

oyster sauce. EQG RAREB IT Hard boiled eggs with the 

EGGS-That is, hen's eggs as most generally shells removed , cut lengthwise in slices, ar- 

used in cookery (other birds' eggs will be found ranged on ser ving platter, seasoned with salt 

under their respective headings) are very and p epper> covered with a mixture of grated 

nutritious, easily digested, and are used in a cheese mixed with butteri browned O ff in oven; 

multitude of ways, but the following recipes served very hot 

will be found to be those most applicable to T?,~/-Q T>T?rVT?\rr-AT T? CATT 

ordinary hotel, restaurant and club patronage. ^^P E ?5 5S : F 7 5t K 

[Inexperienced hotel butchers have spoiled Timbale molds brushed with butter, bottoms 

much meat through their brine, by using the egg sprmkled Wlth mi ced f " ed shallots - eggs then 

test for strength, the test being that when the brokeQ m ' h " e Cr<ole 8 armture P laced 

brine will float an egg it is just right. If he <**p- B f ed <' set - turned ut n Serv ' n 8 

used a potato the same size as an egg he would dls . h; served wlth Proven C ale sauce poured over 

be more sure, for a new laid egg will sink to the and around - 

bottom of a brine and stay there; while a bad EGGS, AU GRATIN Slices of hard boiled eggs 

egg will float and every day's age to the egg in a gratin dish covered with white sauce, then 

from the newly laid brings it more to the sur- sprinkled with cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, 

face of the same strength of brine. MORAL: baked and served. 

weigh and measure your salt, saltpetre and EGG PATTIES Small squares of hard boiled 

water] (see heading of brine). eggs mixed into a rich Supreme sauce with a 

SHIRRED EGGS Shirred egg dish buttered, few mushrooms, filled into hot puff paste patty 

eggs broken into it, two or three drops of clear shells. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 79 

SALPICON OF EGGS Yolks and whites of eggs OMELET WITH CEPES Cut the cepes into 

steamed separately till set; when cold, cut in dice; fry in butter for two or three minutes, 

slices, then stamped out with column cutter to- pour off the butter, and pour in the omelet 

gether with tongue, truffles and mushrooms, mixture; form and serve. 

the whole then mixed into a rich Veloute- sauce; QMELET WITH CHEESE-Mix grated cheese 

served garnished with fancy buttered toast. whh thfi beaten eggs> in proportion of one-third 

EGGS, INDIAN STYLE Into a soubise sauce cheese to two-thirds beaten eggs, form the ome- 

is worked enough curry powder to lightly color let, when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a 

it, brought to a simmer, eggs poached in it; little grated cheese on top of the omelet an^ 

served on circular slices of toast with some brown off very quickly in a hot oven, 

sauce poured around. OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS-Blanch 

EGGS BREADED, CREOLE SAUCE Eggs the livers, then cut them into dice, fry them 
boiled five minutes, shelled, dipped in thick lightly in butter for ten minutes with some 
Hollandaise sauce, then in breadcrumbs, then minced shallots and mushrooms, season with 
breaded and fried; served with Creole sauce or salt and pepper and add a little chopped pars- 
garniture, ley, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, and 

EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER Eggs fried serve a little Hanover sauce at both ends of 

with plenty of butter that is hot enough to turn the omelet - 

a nice brown color and froth up; when set, OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF Scald, 

taken up on toast; to the frothing butter is then drain, and mince the dried beef, mix it with 

added a little tarragon vinegar, poured over the the beaten eggs, and form the omelet, ponr a 

eggs and served immediately. little cream sauce around when serving. 

FRICASSEE OF EGGS Yolks and whites OMELET WITH HAM Cooked minced ham 

steamed separately till set; when cold scooped made hot in Madeira sauce enclosed within the 

out with oval cutter, made hot in an onion omelet, 

cream sauce and served. Raw minced Ham with a little minced shallot 

EGGS WITH CAVIARE-Slices of hard boiled and P arsle y fried tiU done - omelet mixture 

eggs on buttered toast, the yolk covered with P oured over U - formed and served - 

caviare forced through a bag and star tube. Minced fned ham beaten up with the eggs, 

EGGS IN CROUSTADE-Whites and yolks of P UrCd m * " Omdet **' ^^ ^ ""^ 

eggs steamed till set; when cold, cut in form of OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS. auMadSre 

dice with equa> quantities of ham, tongue and Cut the kidneys into small dice and fry them 

button mushrooms, reheated in Supreme sauce, with minced shallots for three minutes, add a 

filled into hot paste croustades and served. little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, en- 
close a spoonful within the omelet and pour 

EGGS SCRAMBLED WITH TOMATOES- some of sauce around . 
One cupful of minced onions, 12 medium sized WTTW <;wFKTRT?FAnq Pook^ 
tomatoes rubbed through a sieve, mixed, seas- OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS Cooked 
oned with salt, pepper and butter, simmered sweetbreads, cut in dice, simmered in mush- 
till onion is done, 12 eggs then broken into the room sauce - a spoonful enclosed within the 
simmering mixture, tossed about till set; served omelet and a little sauce P oured around - 
in cases. OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS If fresh 

SCRAMBLED EGGS IN CASES-Eggs beaten mushrooms, peel, trim and cut into dice and 

with minced green herbs, salt and pepper, **?' If canned, cut them in thin slices and fry; 

scrambled with plenty of butter; served in drain and mix them into Madura sauce, enclose 

fancy paper cases a spoonful in the omelet, serve with a spoonful 

of the mushrooms at each end of the dish. 

EGGS WITH ONION PUREE-Slices of hot QHRTMPS MFXIPAN 

hard boiled eggs arranged around a centre of OMELET WITH SHRIMPS MEXICAN 

thick puree of onions in Veloute sauce. STYLE-Take fresh or canned shrimps, cut 

in halves, mix with some finely chopped green 

OMELET WITH BACON Plain or with Pi- peppers, put it into a V^lout^ sauce containing 

quante sauce. Cut the bacon into small dice, some lobster butter, simmer for five minutes, 

fry fairly well done, pour off most of the fat, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, turn on 

turn in the beaten eggs, mix and form. to the serving dish, place two whole shrimps on 

OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS-Roasted to P- and P our some o the sauce around - 

kidneys cut in dice, and made hot in a little OMELET WITH FINE HERBS Beat up with 

demi-glaze and chopped parsley. Enclose the the eggs, some finely minced shallots, thyme, 

mixture within the omelet; serve with a Madeira marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley, season 

sauce poured around. with salt and pepper, form the omelet and serve. 



8o THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

SPANISH OMELET Finely shred onions, sauce, make hot, enclose within the omelet, 

minced green peppers, minced mushrooms, serve with Veloute sauce poured around. 

solid tomatoes cut in small pieces, the whole CREOLE OMELET Chopped green peppers, 

fried in butter for five minutes, then add some onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rica, 

tomato sauce, season with salt and pepper, re- made hot in thick tomato sauce, enclosed within 

duce till thick, enclose a spoonful within the the omelet, and spoonfuls served at ends of ths 

omelet; when on the serving dish, place a spoon- omelet on the dish. 

ful of the mixture at each end of the omelet and EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE Peeled egg 

garnish the top with fancy strips of Pimentoes plant in slices, sprinkled with salt; after having 

in oil. laid a few minutes, wiped dry, then fried a 

OMELET WITH PARSLEY Mix some finely golden color with butter; cold rare roast beef 

chopped parsley, pepper and salt with the beaten minced fine with a very little onion, mixed with 

eggs, form and serve. a few slices of peeled tomatoes, chopped pars- 

OMELET WITH TOMATOES-Stew fresh or le y- salt and P e PP er = stewed down thick - g ratin 

canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, salt dlshes buttered, bottom covered with the egg 

and pepper to a thick pulp, enclose within the P lant - mince next - this covered with more egg 

omelet, pour tomato sauce around, P lant - moistened with rich roast beef gravy, 

OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE-Take baked half an hour and served. 

some boiled rice, and moisten ii with reduced FRIED EGG PLANT-Egg plant peeled, cut m 

tomato sauce, enclose within the omelet, and slices - sprinkled with salt and allowed to marin- 

pour tomato sauce around, ade for an hour ' then wi P ed ^ rolled in flour ' 

dlpped mt beaten CggS ' fried and served - 
BROILED EGG PLANT ON TOAST-P^d 



, , ... , . . egg plant cut in slices, sprinkled with salt and 

sauce, enclose a spoonful within the omelet; "J to remain for an hour, then wiped dry, 

when on the serving dish place three whole . , . . , , , .. , 

scalded oysters on top of the omelet, pour some r " ed "> fl ur tl \ en melted butter ' br lled 

oyster sauce over all and sprinkle whh parsley and baSted j > ^ V ! ) d *"T n ' , 

/ t STUFFED EGG PLANT Small egg plant not 



OMELET WITH FRENCH PEAS -Simmer 

some French peas in reduced Veloute sauce till side; ^ ed ^ mixed 

thick; place a spoonful within the omelet and a cooked saU ^ buttoQ mushroomSi minced 

spoonful at each end of the omelet on the serv- shallots cfa d chiyes and j fijled . ntQ 

ing dish, with cream sauce poured around. Ae iled hi h smoothed over and 

OMELET WITH EGG PLANT Cut the egg baked 

plant into dice fry it in butter; when done add EGQ pLANT FRITTER s_p ee led egg plant cut 

a little meat glaze, enclose within the omelet fa ^ fof aQ faour weH ^ whh 

and pour some brown sauce around. ^ then wiped d djpped iQ ^^ slowly 

OMELET WITH SPINACH-Beat some puree {ried in hot fat; served plain as a ve g et able or 

of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and as ^ accompaniment to meat. 

pepper, form and serve. EGG PLANT WITH CHEESE Make "the 

OMELET WITH SPRING VEGETABLES broiled egg plant on toast" mentioned above; 

Cut a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables when finished and on the toast, cover it with a 

(or use canned macedoine), boil till tender.drain, slice of ch eese, place in hot oven till cheese is 

moisten with a little demi-glaze or Supreme melted and browned; served at once. 

sauce, enclose within the omelet, and decorate EGG PLANT STEWED Peeled egg plant cut 

the top of the omelet with the vegetables, pour - n pieces size of small eggs cold roast bee{ or 

some of the sauce used around. mutton cut in small pieces and mixed into a 

OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS rich gravy with a minced onion and peeled to- 

Take cooked asparagus points, make them hot matoes, brought to the boil, egg plant then put 

in Allemande sauce, enclose within the omelet in, simmered till done, then served. 

and pour some of the sauce around. ENDIVE Also called CHICORY Is cooked as 

OMELET WITH OLIVES Take the olives, a vegetable same as spinach; also made into 

stone them, slice them into four slices, make salads, using the white leaves; dressed with 

them hot in Madeira sauce, enclose within the French dressing. 

omelet, decorate the top of the omelet with EPIGRAMME A term used in cookery to denote 

slices of olives, and pour some Soubise sauce one kind of meat served in two forms on the 

around. same dish, such as, two chops, one breaded and 

OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN Take fried, the other broiled; served resting on each 

minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Ve'loute' other. See heading of respective meats. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ESPAGNOLE Name of a stock sauce, used as 
a basis to form many of the brown sauces; 
made by frying in a thick bottomed large sauce- 
pan till brown, ham, veal and beef in meat and 
bones; carrots, onions, turnips, celery and pars- 
ley; flour then added to form a roux, moistened 
gradually with good brown stock, seasoned with 
thyme, savory, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves, 
whole peppers, and whole allspice; when boiled 
np, skimmed, then is added a liberal quantity 
of tomatoes, together with one or two old fowls 
or roast poultry carcasses, simmered slowly for 
several hours, strained, skimmed, finished with 
sherry wine. 

EXTRACTS Or flavorings used in the making 
of ice creams, jellies, cakes, puddings, sweet 
sauces, etc., can be made much cheaper than 
buying at the stores and paying for fancy labels 
and bottles; the point is to obtain good oils and 
pure alcohol. 

EXTRACT OF CLOVES 2 ozs. oil of cloves, i 
pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF ANISEED i oz. of oil of anise, 
i pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF CINNAMON i oz. oil of cinna- 
mon, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF BITTER ALMOND 2 ozs. oil 
of bitter almond, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF LEMON 2 ozs. oil of lemon, i 
pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF WINTERGREEN i oz. oil of 
wintergreen, i quart of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF SARSAPARILLA i oz. each of 
oils of sassafras and wintergreen, i quart of al- 
cohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF VANILLA 2 ozs. of vanilla 
beans, 6 ozs. of alcohol, 12 ozs. of water; cut 
the beans small and bruise them, put them 
in wide mouthed bottles, cover with the alco- 
hol and water, steep for two weeks, shaking it 
up every two days. 

FARINA A fine granular pieparation made from 
wheat. Of two kinds, white and graham, the lat- 
ter being used as a breakfast cereal, the former 
for puddings, quenelles and as a soup thicken- 
ing. 

BAKED FARINA PUDDING i gallon of milk, 
i pound of farina, ^ of a pound of sugar, ^ a 
pound of butter, 5 whole and 6 yolks of eggs; 
made by boiling the milk and sugar together, 
then sprinkling in the farina, stirring continu- 
ally till smooth, simmered for % of an hour, 
then is added the beaten eggs and butter; flav- 
ored to taste; poured into buttered pudding 
pans, baked till set; served with a sweet or 
wine sauce, preserved fruit, or compote of 
stewed fruit. 

BOILED FARINA PUDDING Generally 
served cold with sweetened or flavored cream, 



whipped cream, stewed fruit or fruit marma- 
lade; if after it is boiled it is poured into caps 
and set, they are called Farina cup custards. 
Made with ^ gallon of milk, j pound of sugar, 
YZ pound of farina, % ot a pound of butter and 
six yolks of eggs. 

FARINA FRITTERS The above mixture when 
boiled is poured into a shallow pan brushed 
with butter; when cold and firm cut into slices, 
double breaded, fried, taken up and rolled in 
powdered sugar; served with fruit sauce. 

FENNEL Name of a garden plant, esteemed as 
a flavoring to boiled salmon and mackerel; used 
in making "fennel sauce," which is the same as 
parsley sauce, simply substituting chopped 
fennel for parsley leaves. 

FIGS As seen in our markets are both fresh and 
dried; the fresh are used in compotes and for 
preserves, the dried for cakes, puddings, ices, 
pastilles; also used as a dessert, either plain or 
rolled in powdered sugar. 

FINANCIERS Name of both a sauce and garn- 
ish, much used; the sauce is composed as fol- 
lows: one pint of sherry wine with a chopped 
truffle and a seasoning of red pepper is rapidly 
boiled down to half its volume, then is added 
one pint of espagnole; boiled again for five 
minutes, then strained for use. For the garn- 
ish composition see heading of "garnishes." 

FINE HERBS Called by the French "fines- 
herbes"; it is a combination of minced shallots, 
mushrooms and parsley. FINE HERBS 
SAUCE is the ingredients mixed into some 
espagnole or other brown sauce. 

FINNAN HADDIE Is the name commercially 
given to smoked haddocks (see haddocks); they 
are imported to this country and sell generally 
at 10 cents per pound. 

BROILED FINNAN HADDIE Skinned, soaked 
in warm water for half an hour, taken up and 
wiped dry, the backbone removed from the 
bone side, seasoned with pepper, brushed with 
butter, broiled and basted; served very hot 
with a sauce composed of melted butter, contain- 
ing lemon juice, mustard and chopped parsley. 

BOILED FINNAN HADDIE Prepared as in 
the preceding, put to boil in cold water, (unless 
very thick three or four minutes boiling is suf- 
ficient) served with Maitre D'Hotel buttef 
spread on the fish, garnished with parsley. 

BAKED FINNAN HADDIE Prepared as for 
broiling, arranged in baking pan, moistened 
witk milk and melted butter, quickly baked and 
basted; served with the sauce given for broiled. 

FINNAN HADDIE, DELMONICO STYLE 
Prepared as for broiling, the fillets then arranged 
in a shallow sautoir, moistened with cream, 
boiled for five minutes, little Madeira wine 
then added, boiled up again, then is stirred in 



82 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



a liaison of egg yolks and cream; when thick- 
ened like thin custard a little more Madeira 
wine added; served very hot in a chafing dish. 

FLAGEOLETS A green haricot bean put up in 
cans by the French and imported to this 
country; makes a very pleasing garnish, are 
cheap, the best being about $1.75 a dozen cans. 

FLANNEL CAKES A sort of pancake; for 
recipe see heading of Batter. 

FLOUNDERS A flat fish of the halibut species 
but much smaller, in plentiful supply, very 
often filleted, in fact generally used in this 
country for fillets of soles; the name flounder 
seldom appears on our bills of fare, hence its 
recipes will be found under that heading. 

FOIE-GRAS Literally fat liver, is made by 
taking the livers of fat geese, cooking them 
with sweet herbs, wine and bacon, then pound- 
ing it, rubbing it through a fine sieve, the 
paste thus obtained being put away in small 
jars, very often mixed with truffles; it is used 
for sandwiches, garnishes, in croustades with 
aspic jelly; cut in pieces and mixed with button 
mushrooms in a rich sauce, then filled into 
scallop shells, gratinated, baked and served; 
also for lining game pies and patties; as a stuf- 
fing for small game birds, etc. 

FONDU Is the name given by the French to a 
dish of eggs scrambled soft with grated cheese 
and butter; served very hot on toast, or filled 
into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top 
and served. 

FORCEMEAT Name given to a highly seasoned 
mince that has been rubbed through a sieve; 
used in making quenelles, lining pies, etc. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT Raw breast of chick- 
en with the skin removed, pounded, rubbed 
through a tamis mixed with a little cream and 
strained whites of raw eggs, seasoned with salt, 
red pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice. 

VEAL FORCEMEAT OR GODIVEAU Equal 
quantities of veal or beef kidney suet and lean 
veal minced, pounded, rubbed through a sieve 
with chopped chives, then is mixed in yolks of 
eggs at the rate of two to each pound of meat, 
then finished to the proper consistency with 
some strained cold Ve'loute' sauce. 

HAM AND LIVER FORCEMEAT Light col- 
ored calf's liver and fat ham in equal quantities 
cut in small pieces, the liver laid in clear cold 
water long enough to extract the blood, so that 
the forcemeat will be whiter; after which it is 
drained and wiped, the ham sauteed over a 
quick fire, then the liver in the ham fat, of a 
golden color together with some chopped shal- 
lots, .parsley and mushrooms, seasoned with red 
pepper, salt and a little mixed spices, the 
whole then chopped fine, pounded, rubbed 
through a sieve; it is then ready for use. 



FRANGIPANE Name given to a cooked cus- 
tard cream used iu filling puffs, eclairs, tart- 
lettes, paper cases for souffles, open pies as 
cream pies, etc. Made by boiling half a gallon 
of milk with ^ of a pound of sugar, then pour- 
ing it to 12 yolks of eggs that have been beaten 
and mixed with y z a pound of sifted flour and 
a little cream; it is then returned to the fire 
with 4 ounces of butter, brought just to a boil, 
removed, flavored and strained for use. 

FRANKFORTS Name of a pork sausage that 
is generally served with "sauerkraut." Made 
of equal quantities of lean and fat pork minced 
finely, seasoned with 3 ounces of mixed ground 
coriander seeds, salt, nutmeg and pepper to 
every 8 pounds, the sausage skins filled in the 
ordinary way, then hung in a dry cool place 
till wanted. 

FRAPPE A French word that signifies a liquor 
is half frozen. 

FRENCH DRESSING Four parts of olive oil 
to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a 
little onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt 
and red pepper, the whole thoroughly mixed. 

FRIANTINE French word sometimes used to 
designate a "bouche'e" or small patty shell, 
hence a small patty of game may be called a 
friantine of game. 

FRICADELLES, ALSO CALLED FRICAN- 
DELLES Are made of three-fifths cold cooked 
meat, one-fifth raw meat, one-fifth bread 
crumbs or boiled rice, the whole minced, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper, parsley, herbs and 
lemon juice, bound with beaten eggs, made up 
into balls, pats, cutlet shapes, etc., fried in 
dripping, or breaded and fried, then served 
with a sauce or garniture appropriate to the 
meat used. 

FRICANDEAU Name applied to the whole but- 
tock or cushion of veal, that is larded, braised, 
and served in broad slices with a sauce or 
garniture. 

FRITTERS Are either a mixture of fruits, veg- 
etables, meat or poultry combined with flour 
and eggs to form a batter; or the article en- 
closed within a batter, then fried crisp, or 
baked as for eclairs, etc. 

CANDIED PEEL FRITTERS Candied orange, 
lemon and citron peel chopped fine and mixed 
into a stiff batter composed of i pound of flour 
moistened with two-thirds sweet wine and one- 
third brandy; after all mixed, the whipped 
whites of ten eggs are stirred in, the mix- 
tare is then placed in a forcing bag with 
large tube, and forced out into boiling fat, fried 
crisp and done through, taken up, drained, 
rolled in powdered sugar; served with wine 
sauce, fruit pure"e or marmalade. Deviations 
may be made by using the imported "fruits 
glaces" such as angelica, poires, cerises, etc. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3 

FRUIT FRITTERS Blackberries, raspberries, in batter and fried; served with orange sauce 

dewberries, strawberries, etc. mixed into a me- made from the syrup they were blanched in. 

dium stiff batter without breaking the fruit, CONFITURE FRITTERS Also called "beig- 

dropped by spoonfuls into very hot fat, fried, nets aux confitures." Fruit marmalade spread 

drained; served with a sauce made of the fruit between two thin slices of plain cake, then 

used, the fritter being dusted with powdered dipped in batter and fried. 

su g ar - PEACH FRITTERS Halves of peeled fresh 

SPANISH PUFF FRITTERS Made by boiling fruit or canned ones drained, dipped in batter 

together 7 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, and and fried; served with a thick syrup sauce into 

one pint of water; when boiling, 9 ozs. of sifted which has been worked some peach butter, the 

flour is thrown in all av once, and stirred till fritters dusted with sugar, 

well cooked, about five minutes, then removed APRICOT FRITTERS Same as the preceding 

from the fire and ten eggs beaten in one at a but substituting apricots for peaches; an- 

time, each egg to be thoroughly incorporated other way is to form a half apricot from rice 

before the next is put in; with the last egg is croquette mixture, and putting the half apricot 

added a tablespoonful of vanilla extract; with it, pinning with a toothpick, dipped in 

dropped in small spoonfuls in medium hot fat batter and fried, toothpick then removed; 

they will expand into hollow balls about the served with sauce, 

size of an orange; room must be allowed to PINEA pp LE FRITTERS Slices of cored can- 
allow of their expansion and for them to roll ne( j pineapple drained, dipped in batter and 
over; when done, drained; served dusted with fried; served with a wine syrup glace sauce, 
powdered sugar, vanilla or wine sauce around. CORN FRITTERS _ Co oked corn cut from the 

QUEEN FRITTERS Same as the preceding, cob> or canne d corn, pounded, mixed with 

but omitting the sugar and vanilla in the mix- flour eggs and butter, seasoned with salt, 

ture; when done, they may be split in the side dropped by spoonfuls in hot fat, fried; served 

and filled with pastry cream, either as a veg etable or garnish. 

CUSTARD FRITTERS- -Boiling milk and sugar PARS NIP FRITTERS-The parsnips boiled, 

thickened stiff with cornstarch, some beaten then masned an d mixed with flour, eggs and 

eggs then worked in, flavored with extract butter> seasoned w ith salt and white pepper, 

poured into shallow pan; when cold, cut into, (the mixture should be medium soft) dropped 

diamond shapes, breaded, fried; served with by spoonfuls in hot f at; w hen done, served as a 

custard sauce. vegetable or garnish. 

CHOCOLATE FRITTERS-Same as the pre- FROG S-There are two kinds on the market, the 

ceding, but boiling some chocolate with the small marsh f aud the large bull {rog . the 

milk; served withvanilla cream sauce. bull is the most conveni ent for use and trade, 

APPLE FRITTERS Apples peeled, cored, giving the guest most satisfaction, and the cook 

leaving the stalk on, the core hole filled with i ea st trouble in preparation, 

stiff fruit marmalade; dipped into a stiff batter, FRmD FRQGS> TARTAR SAUCE-The legs 

slowly fried till done; served dusted with marinaded for an hour in lemon juice, salt and 

powdered sugar. pepper, w - pedi ^^ jn flouri theQ breaded 

APPLE FRITTERS Large good cooking apples and f r i ed; served with tartar sauce, garnished 

peeled and cored, cut in slices, dipped in bat- w j t h lemon slices and parsley, 

ter.fried; served with fruits, rum or wine sauce. BROILED FROG L EGS-The legs marinaded 

RICE FRITTERS Well boiled rice drained for an hour in O i ive oil, lemon juice, salt and 

and pounded, mixed with egps, sugar and a pepper, taken up, floured, broiled and basted 

little flour; flavored with grated lemon rind, with the mar i na de till done; served with Maitre 

made into flat round cakes with a depression in D'Hotel butter, garnished with lemon and pars- 

the centre, fried; served coated with powdered \ ey 

dl ^ depreSSi D *"* with marma ' STEWED FROG LEGS WITH PEAS-Frog 

legs blanched for a few minutes in salted vine- 

GERMAN FRITTERS Very light roll dough gar water, then drained and put into a rich 

cut out in thin -flats, little jam placed in centre Ve'loute' sauce, simmered till done; served with 

of one, covered with another flat, allowed to a border of saute"ed green peas, 

rise, then fried, drained, rolled in powdered FRICASSEE OF FROG LEGS-Frog legs lightly 

sugar and served; also called "Bismarks." saut^ed with butter and minced shallots, taken 

ORANGE FRITTERS Quarters of skinned up, the butter then lightly browned, flour added 

oranges with the seeds removed blanched in a to form a roux, moistened with chicken stock, 

thick syrup, taken up and drained, then dipped brought to the boil, skimmed, seasoned with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



salt, red pepper and sherry wine, legs put back 
into it and simmered till done. 
FROG LEGS, SOUTHERN STYLE Frog legs 
saute"ed with butter and minced shallots, then 
taken up; to the butter and shallois is now 
added a little raw lean ham cut in small dice, 
together with a chopped green pepper; when 
ham is nearly done, add two quarts of chicken 
consomme, a quart can each of okra and toma- 
toes, brought to the boil, a cupful of well 
washed rice then added; when rice is nearly 
done, the frog legs are put in and simmered 
till tender. It should be a thick stew. Served, 
the legs in centre of dish with the vegetables 
around as a garnish. 

FROG LEGS SAUTE, PROVENCALE The 
legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- 
te'ed with butter, taken up into a sautoir, cov- 
ered with Provencale sauce, simmered till 
tender; served garnished with small stuffed 
onions and tomatoes. 

FROG LEGS SAUTES, POULETTE The 
legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- 
teed with butter and minced shallots, taken up 
into a sautoir, covered with sauce Poulette, 
simmered till tender; served with the sauce, 
garnished with flageolet beans and fancy crou- 
tons. 

FROG LEGS SAUTE, BORDELAISE The 
legs saute'ed with minced ham, garlic, shal- 
lots, thyme and butter, taken up, to the resi- 
due is then added sauce Espagnole with a 
glass of claret wine; this is then reduced to a 
demi-glaze and strained over the legs; served 
garnished with fried slices of beef marrow. 

FROG OMELET, SOUTHERN STYLE 
Shredded frog meat left over from either of the 
four preceding receipts, mixed into a sauce 
camposed of one-third each of tomato, Espag- 
nole and Creole sauce; a spoonful enclosed 
within a savory omelet; served with more of 
the frog meat down he sides. 

GALANTINE A name applied to fowl, some 
game, fish and meat that may be boned, stuffed, 
boiled, braised or roasted, then pressed and cut 
into slices for service when cold, either plain 
or filled into molds with aspic jelly and decor- 
ated. 

GALANTINE OF TURKEY OR CHICKEN 
Two birds, the larger one to be singed, the 
smaller skinned, the birds' skin split down the 
back from the head to tail, the carcass re- 
moved without further breaking the skin; the 
large one laid out flat, skin downwards, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and powdered mixed 
herbs; the under fillets of the breast to be filled 
into the space which the breastbone occupied, 
the wing and leg meat drawn inwards and the 
sinews removed, the whole then spread with a 
force or sausage meat; two strips each of cooked 



tongue and fat salt pork arranged alternately 
down the centre, also some slices of truffles if 
at hand; the meat of the smaller bird then laid 
over the stuffing, the white meat covering the 
dark of the other bird, so that when cut, light 
and dark meat is served to each portion; the 
skin of the large bird is then drawn together 
and sewn closely, placed into a cloth which is 
again sewn and tied at the ends like a roly poly 
pudding, plunged into boiling seasoned white 
stock and simmered till done; taken up and 
while still hot, pressed into a mold with screw 
pressure or weight on top; when set and cold, 
the cloth removed, the bird wiped with a hot 
cloth to remove all grease and stains, it is then 
sliced for the table. If the birds are both 
young and juicy, instead of being boiled they 
may be braised or roasted (of course without 
being tied in a cloth), when done, taken up, 
pressed, trimmed and glazed. 

GALANTINES are however generally served 
with aspic jelly, and the nicest way is to take 
the birds when pressed, wipe and trim, cut in- 
to even slices; galantine molds lined with aspic 
jelly, then decorated with cooked peas, mace"- 
doines, fancy shapes of white of eggs, beet, car- 
rot and truffles, these decorations again coa ted 
with aspic to keep them in position, the slices 
of bird then laid into the mold EDGES DOWN- 
WARDS not laid flat; limpid aspic run between 
each slice; when the mold is full, set, turned 
out, decorated and sent to table. I have seen 
galantines served at banquets where the slices 
of meat have been laid flat in the mold, with 
the result that the waiters could not procure a 
decent slice to serve; had the edges been placed 
downwards, the waiter or serving man would 
have been able to move each slice with the jelly 
adhering simply by the aid of a fork. 

GAME Name applied in a culinary sense to 
birds and animals fit fat table use that are 
hunted by sportsmen, the animals and birds 
not being domesticated; these embrace wood- 
cock, quail, snipe, partridge, wild ducks, geese 
and brant, prairie chickens, grouse, pheasant, 
reed birds, rail sora, ortolans, rice birds, sage 
hens, wheat ears, larks, capercailzie, plover, 
etc., squirrels, hares, venison, moose, caribou, 
black bear, elk, antelope, mountain sheep and 
goat; recipes will be found under each respec- 
tive heading. 

GARDEN PARTIES Country club stewards 
and caterers are often called upon to prepare 
for and superintend garden parties, and as a 
rule the meal is served out of doors, under a 
marquee. When the steward or caterer has 
several through the summer season, invarably 
the same guests are to be found, he must there- 
fore rack his brains to continually change the 
card. Solid food is NOT REQUIRED. The 
refreshments should be tea and coffee, various 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



kinds of cups, delicate sandwiches of minced 
and creamed meat and fish, individual cakes, 
rolled bread and butter, ices, fruit; strawberries 
and cream are usually served from large silver 
bowls. The buffet should be well supplied with 
canapes, bouche"es, timbales, darioles, individ- 
ual galantines made in fancy gem pans all 
things to be of an individual form as far as pos- 
sible. Whatever wines are used should be of 
the light and sparkling variety, never anything 
heavy and heating. 

GARFISH Name of a fish with an elongated 
mouth resembling in body both mackerel and 
eel; they are prepared and served in all the 
ways applicable to eels. 

GARLIC Name of a podded or cloved form of 
onion of very strong taste and flavor, always to 
be used sparingly ; it enters into many soups, 
sauces and ragouts; in the recipes requiring it, 
the word clove, signifies one of the sections. 

dARNISHES Name given to mixture of small 
tasty foods in sauce, used as a garnish and 
appropriate sauce to the main article served. 
Unhappily there are so many garnishes, that 
the average cook has not the brain to retain but 
a limited number, and not one cook in a hun- 
dred could sit down and write the component 
parts of twenty garnitures right off the reel. It 
is the garnishes that stupefy the guests and 
make them order plain roast turkey; that cov- 
ers the "bills of fare" with worse than mongrel 
French; that spoils many a good dish because 
the garnish used is not appropriate to the food 
served; that makes the country hotel keeper ask 
the cook what he wants this and that for; that 
makes the guest when he looks at the bill of 
fare exclaim: What in thunder is a la Montmor- 
ency! a la this and a la that. The following 
garnishes are the most principal in use, are 
put in a simple way to memorize, not only their 
ingredients; but that most important point that 
up to date no cook book has ever attempted to 
show. THE DISHES THAT THE GARN- 
ISHES ARE APPROPRIATE TO. 

ADMIRAL Composed of shrimps, boiled cray- 
fish tails, fried tufts of parsley, oysters or 
mussels blanched, drained, dipped in Villeroi 
sauce then breaded and fried; appropriate as a 
garnish to WHOLE fish, the parts arranged in 
small groups around the fish with Admiral 
sauce served separately. 

ALLEMANDE For braised meat, is composed 
of stewed sauerkrout, prunes and potato cakes 
arranged around the meat, with Poivrade sauce 
poured under it. 

ALLEMANDE For boiled leg of pork: omit 
the stewed prunes and potato cakes, substitut- 
ing glazed pieces of carrot, turnip and small 
onions. 

ALLEMANDE For boiled chicken: the garn- 
ish is quenelles of potatoes poached, then cov- 



ered with fried bread crumbs, arranged around 
the chicken with Allemande sauce poured un- 
der. This same is applied to most fowl and 
game served a 1'Allemande. 

ALLEMANDE For braised fish such as carp or 
pike, the garnish is composed of small fish 
quenelles, button mushrooms, crayfish tails, 
and either small oysters or mussels, arranged 
around the fish with Allemande sauce in which 
has been worked some of the fish braise and 
anchovy butter. 

ALLEMANDE For roast or braised venison, 
the meat is garnished with prunes stewed in 
red wine, potato quenelles, and a sauce poured 
over the meat; made by taking equal parts of 
red currant jelly, Burgundy wine and Espag- 
nole sauce, boiling them together with the rind 
and juice of an orange, and a piece of stick 
cinnamon, then strain. 

ANDALOUSE Small stuffed tomatoes and green 
peppers, with a small mold of dry boiled rice, 
arranged alternately around a dish of braised 
or roast meat or fowl, with Andalouse sauce 
poured under the meat. 

AURORE Composed of small fish quenelles, 
button mushrooms and blanched oysters or 
mussels, the whole mixed into Aurora sauce; 
appropriate to garnish cutlets of fish, such as 
salmon trout, pike, cod, snapper, halibut, etc. 

ANGLAISE For boiled beef is composed of 
neatly trimmed plain boiled carrots and turnips, 
arranged alternately around the meat with suet 
dumplings; piquante sauce served separately. 

ANGLAISE For roast beef or fillet, is small 
browned potatoes at the side of the meat, with 
scraped horseradish at the ends. 

ANGLAISE For calf's head, is composed of a 
slice each of boiled bacon and glazed tongue, 
and served either with parsley or devil sauce. 

ANGLAISE For boiled chicken,, is composed of 
tufts of boiled cauliflower, a thin slice of ham, 
and Bechamel sauce poured around. 

ANGLAISE For roast goose, is garnished with 
plain sage and onion stuffing, a brown gravy 
poured over, and apple sauce served separ- 
ately. 

ANGLAISE For boiled leg of mutton, is garn- 
ished with a small mold of mashed white 
turnips, alternated with a trimmed boiled car- 
rot, and served with caper sauce. 

ANGLAISE For boiled leg of salt pork, is garn- 
ished with trimmed boiled carrots and turnips, 
arranged alternately around the meat with a 
puree of split peas. 

ANGLAISE For roast pork, is garnished with 
sage and onion stuffing in spoonfuls alternately 
with a small baked apple; brown gravy or 
apple sauce served separately. 



86 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

ANGLAISE For boiled salmon, is garnished sauce, which is made of fried onions with a 

either with shrimp, mussel or parsley sauce. suspicion of garlic, moistened with Drown 

ANGLAISE For roast turkey, is composed of sauce, seasoned, then rubbed through a tamis; 

small pork sausages fried, a slice of boiled ham, small olive shapes of potatoes fried a light 

bacon, or salt pork, stewed chestnuts, arranged brown in butter, generally accompanies the 

alternately around the meat with stuffiing un- beans in the garniture. 

der it, poivrade sauce poured around. CARDINAL Composed of small quenelles of 

[THE ENGLISH WAY of serving salmis of lobster, small turned truffles and button mush- 

game is to simply garnish with button mush- rooms - a11 mixed into a Cardinal sauce; appro- 

rooms and croutons. Their roast venison is P riate to serve with stuffed baked P ik e, carp, 

served plain with Yorkshire sauce]. boiled salmon, turbot, halibut, fillets of sole. 

, , . boudins of lobster, paupiettes of sole, fillets of 

AFRICAINE Composed of stewed okras, arti- trout gtc 

choke bottoms and pieces of egg plant mixed 

into an Espagnole saSce; appropriate to serve CHAMBORD - Composed of fish quenelles 

with braised veal and fowls. truffles ' button mushrooms, crayfish, small fish 

roes, moistened with Genevoise sauce for the 

AU JUS-Dishes so named are served with their one part Crayfish tails, turned truffles, small 

natural juice or gravy. fisn roes moistened with Villeroi sauce for the 

BAYARD Composed of circular slices of red second part; appropriate to garnish WHOLE 

tongue, truffles, mushrooms and artichokes, all fi sn , such as salmon for a banquet table, the 

boiled down with a little Madeira wine, then two colored garnishes being used alternately, 

mixed into Espagnole sauce; appropriate to jntersticed with whole crayfish. 

serve with sweetbreads, lamb fries and other CHIPOLAT A Composed of small glazed onions, 

white meat entries, the ends of the dish being glazed balls of carrot and tumi chestnutSi 

garnished with croutons spread with foie-gras. cocks combs and kernels or pieces of chickejli 

BORDELAISE Composed of slices of parboiled pieces of braised bacon, balls of veal or pork 

ox marrow and Bordelaise sauce, or a sauce or sausages and button mushrooms, the whole 

butter composed of minced shallots, a suspic- moistened with Financiere sauce; appropriate 

ion of garlic, minced parsley and butter; served to garnish small birds on toast, braised cutlets 

with broiled steaks. of mutton, roast pheasants, roast suckling pig, 

BORDELAISE For matelote of eels, is com- roast turkey, saute" of rabbit, braised prairie 

posed of very small onions stewed, button hen - partridge with cabbage, braised capon, 

mushrooms and blanched sautded oysters, the cutlets of turkey, etc. 

whole sprinkled with chopped parsley, arranged CHIVRY Composed of blanched oysters coated 

alternately round the matelote with fancy crofi- with Villeroi sauce, then breaded and fried; 

tons; no sauce. small potato croquettes, small bouche>s of 

BORDELAISE For roast quails, is a garnish oysters, and crayfish tails dipped in Villeroi 

of slices of truffles and mushrooms mixed into sauce; a PPropriate garnish to whole fish. 

a Bordelaise sauce. DUCHESSE Composed of strips of red tongue 



BOURGIGNOTTE OR BOURGIGNONNE-Is and cocks combs mixed in V&out6 sauce; 

composed of very small onions stewed, then a PP r P" a * * white meat entrees. 

glazed, with an equal quantity of button mush- DAUPHINE Composed of Duchesse potatoes, 

rooms and small quenelles of forcemeat all fried tufts of parsley and Italian sauce; used for 

mixed into a Bourgignotte sauce; appropriate *"ed cutlets of chicken, veal cutlets, etc. 

to serve with croustade of quails, cutlets of DURAND Composed of trimmed slices of truf- 

sturgeon sautes, cutlets of mutton same's, fl es , chicken livers, mushrooms, ham, sweet- 

braised pigeon cutlets, salmis of small birds, breads, bacon, olives stuffed with truffle farce, 

etc. cockscombs, gherkins, and hard boiled yolks 

BOUERGOISE Consists of plain root vegeta- of eggs cut in halves, the whole moistened 

bles glazed; appropriate for simple dishes, with Espagnole sauce that is flavored with 

such as, glazed shortribs of beef, braised flank thyme; appropriate garnish to fricandeaus, 

of beef, rolled breast of veal, etc. roast or braised legs of mutton, cushions of 

BOHEMIENNE Composed of stoned olives, veal - etc - 

button mushrooms, small onions and balls of D'ARTOIS A fish garnish composed of strips or 

potatoes; appropriate to garnish braised and circles of puff paste containing a salpicon of 

roast meat, under which is poured Poivrade cooked crayfish tails, oysters, mushrooms and 

sauce. white fleshed fish. 

BRETONNE A garnish chiefly used with DUMAS A garnish to be used with game; corn- 

braised leg of mutton; composed of boiled navy posed of ham, veal kidneys, cooked and cut in- 

beans, drained, then moistened with Brelonne to small sections, then moistened with Madeira 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



sance containing chopped parsley, tarragon and 
lemon juice. 

ECARLETTE-Composed of pieces of red tongue, 
corned beef and mushrooms moistened with a 
Villeroi sauce; appropriate to garnish blanq- 
ettes, supreTnes, etc. Also consists of red 
tongue in tomato sauce; or lobster coral in a 
Ve'loute' sauce; these latter two should be used 
when the meat or fish is red, so as to preserve 
the color. 

FERMIERE Composed of Parisienne fried po- 
tatoes, glazed balls of carrot, braised small' 
lettuces and hearts'of cabbages; appropriate to 
garnish braised or boiled beef, pot roasts, a la 
modes, etc. 

FIN ANCIERE Composed of button mushrooms, 
turned truffles, pieces of sweetbreads, cocks 
combs and kernels, small quenelles of force- 
meat, the whole moistened with Financiere 
sauce; appropriate to garnish fillets of beef, 
poultry, calf's head, sweetbreads, pigeons, sal- 
mis of plovers, braised turtle fins, black game, 
braised saddle of lamb, salmis of partridge and 
pheasant, fillets of rabbits, necks of veal, veal 
cutlets, roast loin of veal, etc. 

FLAM ANDE Composed of small pieces of bacon 
and sausages, plenty of braised white cabbage, 
turned boiled carrots and turnips, glazed onions; 
or the dish served with Brussels sprouts in half 
glaze, or with Flemish sauce. Appropriate 
garnish to boiled beef, boiled or roast ham, 
fillets of beef, large steaks, etc, 

GODARD Composed of turned and glazed truf- 
fles, diced sweetbreads, godiveau quenelles and 
button mushrooms (cocks combs and kernels, 
optional) moistened with Madeira sauce; ap- 
propriate garnish to braised sirloin of beef, 
larded capons, braised saddle of lamb, etc., also 
as a filling for timbales of macaroni which are 
subsequently served with Perigueux sauce. 

GOURMET Composed of neat-shaped pieces 
of ox palate, artichoke bottoms, turned truffles 
and button mushrooms, moistened with Ma- 
deira sauce; used for garnishing larded and 
braised fresh ox tongue. 

GREQUE Composed of trimmed and blanched 
okras which are then simmered in a little Ma- 
deira sauce for ten minutes; used to garnish 
veal cutlets saute's, with a little Bearnaise sauce 
at ends of dish, also as a garnish to stewed veal. 

HUSSARD Composed of small circles of cooked 
red tongue, slices of mushrooms and small go- 
diveau quenelles, the whole moistened with 
equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato pure'e; 
used for garnishing braised white meat. 

JOURNEAUX Composed of slices of saut^ed 
chicken livers, moistened with rich Madeira 
sauce; appropriate garnish to roast or braised 
chicken, and as a filling for timbales, patties, 
omelets, etc. 



MACEDOINE Composed of fancy shapes of 
cooked carrot, turnip, stringless beans, with 
green peas, moistened with Allemande, Supreme 
or Bechamel sauces, when served with white 
meat entries; or mixed with Espagnole sauce 
for dark meat entries. Appropriate garnish to 
fillet of beef, boiled capon, braised ducks, glazed 
fillets of ducklings, braised saddle of lamb, 
breaded mutton cutlets, glazed ox tongue, fri- 
candeau of veal, roast fillet of veal, epigramme 
of lamb, fillets of capon, braised quails, larded 
sweetbreads, etc. 

MARINIERE Composed of blanched oysters, 
crayfish tails, turned truffles and small fish 
quenelles; used to garnish boiled fish. 

MATELOTE Composed of pieces of fish roe, 
very small onions saut^ed in butter then drained, 
pieces of truffle, blanched mussels or small 
oysters and small fish quenelles, the whole 
moistened with a Matelote sauce; appropriate 
garnish to crimped codfish, eels, boiled salmon 
steaks, fillets of soles, baked stuffed bluefish, 
boiled carp, baked codfish, fried fillets of pike, 
boiled red snapper, braised trout, etc, 

MILANAISE Composed of inch pieces of boiled 
macaroni and red tongue, slices of mushrooms, 
a little boiled rice, chopped truffle peelings 
and Parmesan cheese, the whole moistened 
with equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato 
pure'e (some raviolis optional); appropriate 
garnish to braised fillet of beef, boiled capon, 
boiled chicken, braised saddle of lamb, breaded 
mutton cutlets, fillets of chicken, stuffed breast 
of lamb, braised breast of veal, etc. 

NAPOLITAINE Composed of inch pieces of 
boiled macaroni dressed with Parmesan cheese; 
sultana raisins stewed in wine, and glazed ravi- 
olis, arranged alternately around the entree 
with Napolitaine sauce poured under. Appro- 
propriate garnish to roast fillet of beef, suckling 
pig, braised capon, larded and glazed sweet- 
breads. 

N I VERNAISE Composed of Julienne vegetables 
saute'ed in clarified butter with a little sugar, 
then drained, moistened with consomme 1 , and 
when nearly done, rapidly boiled down to glaze; 
used in this way or mixed into a Hollandaise 
sauce. Appropriate garnish to breaded chicken 
cutlets, braised beef and mutton, braised ducks, 
haricot of mutton, mutton cutlets, etc. 

PAYSANNE Composed of slices of stuffed and 
braised cucumber, slices of braised carrot and 
small sausages, the whole then moistened with 
strained braise; appropriate garnish to black 
game, pheasant, haricot of mutton, haricot of 
ox tails, etc. 

PERIGUEUX Composed of scallops of fat bird 
livers and truffles braised in a mirepoix, to which 
is then added some quenelles of forcemeat, cocks 
combs and kernels with button mushrooms, the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



whole then moistened with Peiigueux sauce, 
boiled up for a minute or two. Appropriate 
garnish to roast black game, large boudins of 
poultry, salmis of partridges, roast pheasant, 
roast stuffed turkey, roast stuffed suckling pig, 
broiled stuffed boneless pigs feet, braised quails 
on fried croustades, fried quarters of young rab- 
bit, veal chops sautes (these are first trimmed, 
seasoned, dipped in whipped egg whites, rolled 
in minced truffles, smoothed with a knife, 
sauteed slowly with butter a delicate brown 
about twenty minutes). 

PARISIAN Composed of equal quantities of 
turned truffles, button mushrooms and cocks ker- 
nels, moistened with Parisian sauce. Appropri- 
ate garnish to roast larded fillets of beef, fillets of 
chicken sautes, fillets of Cartridges breaded and 
sauteed, sauteed fillets of quails on toast, larded 
and braised sweetbreads. (For a club dish, the 
sweetbreads should be served three to the por- 
tion, one larded with strips of truffles, one with 
parsley stalks, the third with strips of red 
tongue, served on toast with the garnish around.) 
Fillets of soles stuffed and sauteed, (this is done 
by filleting the fish, spreading them with force- 
meat, arranged on a baking sheet, moistened 
with a little white wine, covered with buttered 
paper, slowly baked till the fish is set, then 
allowed to cool, spread with a cold Allemande 
sauce, breaded, then gently sauteed a fine color 
with butter; served with the garnish.) 

PROVENCALE Composed of small stuffed and 
baked tomatoes, small onions with the centers 
removed after being steamed, the whole then 
filled with forcemeat in which is worked a lit- 
tle cheese and a flavor of garlic, they are then 
sauteed; the entree when being served is sur- 
rounded alternately with the onions and toma- 
toes, also a sauce Provencale poured under the 
meat; appropriate garnish to braised fillet of 
beef, fried cutlets of chicken, braised ducks, 
leg of mutton boned, stuffed and braised, 
braised mutton cutlets, salmis of partridges, 
roast stuffed sucking pig, fried calf's brains in 
batter, salmis of all wild fowls. 

REGENCY composed of small fish quenelles, 
cocks combs, button mushrooms, crayfish tails, 
truffles, and a little lobster coral, the whole 
moistened with some Regency sauce; appropri- 
ate garnish to WHOLE boiled salmon, trout, 
pike, halibut, turbot and red snapper. 

ROUENNAISE Composed of turnips turned to 
an even small size, sauteed in butter with a lit- 
tle sugar till of a fine golden color, then mois- 
tened with some sauce Espagnole and simmered 
in it till tender; appropriate garnish to roast 
ducks, roast or braised pheasant, braised leg of 
mutton, capercailzie and black game. 

ROUENNAISE Is also the name of a useful 
fish garnish and is composed for this use with 
blanched oysters and shrimps with button 



mushrooms, each in equal quantities, also some 
lobster quenelles, the liquor from the blanched 
oysters and mushrooms reduced with a little 
white wine, then added to a Velout sauce, fin- 
ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, 
lemon juice and chopped parsley, then is added 
the ragout. 

RICHELIEU Composed of small poultry quen- 
elles which have some brown puree of onions 
in their composition, slices of braised poultry 
livers and cocks combs, the whole moistened 

with a brown onion puree sauce; appropriate 
garnish to entries of game and poultry that are 
breaded and subsequently fried or broiled, also 
boneless pigs feet breaded, braised carbonade 
of mutton, crepinettes of partridge, etc. 

ROY ALE Composed of a ragout of button mush- 
rooms, cocks combs and kernels, small quenelles 
of chicken and turned truffles, the ragout to be 
moistened with the glazy strained braise from 
the meat. Appropriate garnish to braised loin 
of veal, breast of veal stuffed and braised, 
braised saddle of lamb, braised capon, braised 
rabbit, larded and braised fillets of chicken. 

ROYALE- -Garnish when to be used for game, 
such as braised venison, hare, pheasant, part- 
ridge, etc., is composed of pieces of braised 
pork sausages, braised bacon, button mush- 
rooms and green gherkins, the whole moistened 
with a Poivrade sauce. 

ROYALE This name is often applied to fish, 
but when so applied it has no garnish, but is 
meant to convey the form and style of cooking, 
which is the fish either filleted and fried, or 
boned, stuffed and stewed, then served with a 
white Ravigote sauce, sometimes garnished with 
fish quenelles. 

ROYALE This name when applied to soups and 
consomme's, has a garnish or filling composed 
of fancy shapes or small timbales of custard; 
made with consomme and egg yolks, or court- 
bouillon and egg yolks, with some lobster roe, 
minced mushrooms, minced truffles, parsley, 
shallots, a green pure"e, etc., etc., mixed in ac- 
cording to fancy, the custard steamed slowly, 
the eggs simply mixed without much beating. 

SOUBISE Composed of small potato croquettes 
and a purde soubise; made by saute"eing with 
butter some blanched onions, seasoning with 
nutmeg, red pepper and a pinch of sugar; when 
of a light color, moistened with white sauce; 
when done, the whole is rubbed through a 
tamis in conjunction with a boiled floury potato 
which keeps the pure firm. Appropriate gar- 
nish to braised black game, boudins of chicken, 
braised leg of mutton, larded neck of mutton, 
braised mutton cutlets, braised partridges, 
larded and braised pheasants, larded and 
braised pork cutlets, scallops of sweetbreads 
sauced, breaded and fried. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



STANLEY Garniture often served with steaks, 
composed of quartered fried bananas, small 
timbales of horseradish mixed with rice, minced 
shallots, cream and egg yolks; served with 
sauce Albert over or around the steaks. 

SUPREME Composed of a pure'e of white 
chicken meat and rice that has been boiled in 
chicken stock, the pure'e being mixed wi;h a lit- 
tle rich cream; arranged on the serving dish as a 
border, decorated with fancy shapes of truffle, 
the meat in the centre being covered with a 
Supreme sauce, such as, breasts of chicken, 
sweetbreads, capon, quails and partridges. 

TOULOUSE Composed of slices of geese livers 
saute'ed and glazed, button mushrooms blanched 
with lemon juice and butter, scallops of sweet- 
breads, turned truffles, cocks combs and kernels 
masked with Toulouse or Supreme sauce. Ap- 
proptiate garnish to larded and saute'ed fillets 
of chicken, fricandeau of veal, sweetbreads, 
capon, larded and sauce'ed ribs of veal. 

TORTU Composed of olive shaped pieces of 
truffle and green gherkins, stoned small olives, 
button mushrooms, scallops of blanched brains 
or sweetbreads, the whole moistened with a rich 
Madeira sauce; used to garnish calf's head, 
larded and braised turtle, stewed turtle fins. 

GHERKINS A small prickly cucumberused for 
pickling; to pickle them they are first washed 
and wiped, then placed in jars and covered with 
a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato 
the size of an egg; allowed to steep for 24 hours, 
then taken out, wiped, placed in clean jars and 
covered with hot vinegar spiced with an onion, 
whole cloves, mustard seed, bay leaves and 
mace; ready for use in two weeks. 

GIBLETS Are composed of the heart, liver, 
gizzard and neck of poultry, and as each take a 
different time to cook, they should be cooked in 
groups of each and afterwards amalgamated; 
all require blanching to remove the blood. 

GIBLET SAUCE Blanched and sauteed hearts, 
livers and gizzards, cut very small, then mixed 
into a thickened gravy from the roasted birds 
to be served with. 

GIBLET PIE Geese giblets blanched, stewed 
in stock till tender with some sherry wine, 
carrot onion and parsley; when done, the 
vegetables removed, sauce made from the 
stock and seasoned with minced shallots, mush- 
rooms, chopped parsley, red pepper, salt and a 
little sweet basil; the giblets then arranged in 
the pie dish together with some small pieces of 
tender saute'ed beef, the sauce poured over all, 
covered with a short paste, egg washed and 
baked. 

STEWED GIBLETS WITH GREEN PEAS 
Poultry giblets prepared as in the preceding, 
but instead of mixing with beef and placing in 



pie dish, served as they are within a border of 
green peas. 

RAGOUT OF GIBLETS WITH POTATO 
CROQUETTES The giblets blanched, then 
sauteed with bacon, finished by stewing till 
tender in a brown sauce with balls of carrot and 
small onions, adding at the last some button 
mushrooms, season with sherry wine; served 
within a border of small potato croquettes. 

GIBLET SOUP The necks and second wing 
joints cut into inch pieces, the gizzards into 
thin slices, saute them, boil the livers with some 
minced onions, split the blanched hearts and 
saute them, mix all together and moisten with 
roast chicken gravy, let simmer till tender; 
meanwhile prepare a soup to the consistency of 
thin cream made from veal or chicken stock 
that has been flavored with celery, carrots, tur- 
nips and onions in equal proportions, bayleaf, 
thyme, basil, savory and mace; when ready, 
strain into the soup tureen, add the giblets in 
sauce, finish with sherry wine and serve. 

GIBLET SOUP WITH RICE The giblets pre- 
pared and sauced as in the preceding, the 
soup made of equal parts of Espagnole, tomato 
and Veloute" sauces, thin to consistency with 
veal or chicken broth, brought to the boil, 
skimmed, rice added and simmered till tender, 
then poured to the giblets, finish with Madeira 
wine. 

CLEAR GIBLET SOUP Blanched giblets cut 
into neat size, simmered in white broth till 
tender, added to a chicken consomme together 
with some Julienne vegetables. 

GLAZE Or reduced meat juice, used to glaze 
or varnish cold meat, such as, boned roast 
fowls, tongues, hams, game birds, boars head, 
etc., to enrich soups and sauces; made by rap- 
idly boiling down clarified stock, consomme or 
very clear broths; these should have had veal 
and beef bones, roast game and poultry car- 
casses boiled in them so as to give the glaze a 
rich flavor. 

GODIVEAU Name used for veal forcemeat, 
made from 2 Ibs. of lean veal, 2 Ibs. of beef suet, 
i Ib. of cooked veal udder, the whole pounded 
till it is creamy, seasoned with red pepper, 
salt, nutmeg, 8 eggs and half a pound of fresh 
white grated bread crumbs, when all smooth, 
it is rubbed through a tamis, and placed away 
for use. It is valuable in making forcemeat 
balls, as a lining for meat pies, etc., quenelles. 

GOOSE One of the domestic fowls much appre- 
ciated by hotel patrons if young. Stewards can 
tell this by the upper bill test, if the upper bill 
will bend or cave in the middle it is young, the 
firmer it is, the older the bird; it is not a very 
profitable bird to the proprietor unless purch- 
ased very low in price, because "when from a 
goose you've taken legs and breast, wipe lips, 
thank God, and give the poor the rest." 



90 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

Spring or green geese about three months served with a brown sauce made in the sauce- 
old are never stuffed for roasting: the best pan it was cooked in, and garnished with col- 
flavored geese are six to nine months old, and umns of glazed turnips. 

best from September to Christmas. BRAISED GOOSE WITH VEGETABLES- 
BOILED GOOSE WITH PICKLED PORK Prepare, truss and braise the birds with bacon, 
The bird singed, drawn and washed, plunged herbs and vegetables; served with brown gravy, 
into boiling salted water with an onion, sim- and garnished with even sized pieces of car- 
mered till tender; served in portions with a slice rot and turnip glazed, intersected with Brussels 
of boiled ham or leg of salt pork, accompanied sprouts, 
with celery sauce. STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED APPLES 

ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH GODI- The birds prepared and filled with mashed 

VEAU Young birds singed, washed, drawn, potatoes mixed with minced and saute'ed onions, 

filled with godiveau, trussed, roasted; served trussed, roasted; served with brown gravy, 

with giblet sauce, accompanied with a garnish garnished with small apples baked whole and 

of sauteed green peas at one end of dish, and glazy, 

a mound of mashed potatoes at the other. ROAST GREEN GOOSE, GOOSEBERRY 

BRAISED GOOSE WITH SAUSAGES The SAUCE The bird singed, drawn, washed, 

bird prepared, stuffed with pork sausage meat trussed, with the inside seasoned well with 

flavored with sage, braised with bacon and veg- salt, pepper and powdered sage, roasted and 

etables; served with a garnish of Parisienne basted; served with gooseberry sauce, 

potatoes, broiled sausages, and gravy made GOOSEBERRY SAUCE Green gooseberries 

from the strained and skimmed braise. with a little sugar and just enough water to 

ROAST GOOSE, APPLE SAUCE The bird kee P them from burning, in a saucepan, lid 

prepared and stuffed with a mixture of dry P^ced on, simmered till done, then rubbed 

bread crumbs moistened with chopped green through a sieve like cranberries; when passed 

apples, minced onion boiled with a little water through a little butter is added, 

and butter; seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, GORGONZOLA Name of a prime cheese made 

trussed, roasted; served with dressing under in the North of Italy, somewhat resembling the 

the meat, apple sauce served separately. English stilton; it is of yellow color with rich 

ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHEST- green veins, firm and creamy. 

NUTS The birds prepared and stuffed with a GRAHAM FLOUR Name given to unbolted 

mixture made of two-thirds chestnut pure"e flour by Sylvester Graham, who claims for it 

mixed with one-third godiveau, trussed, roasted; more nutritive properties, but it has, however, 

served in portions: garnished with roasted and been proven to be less easy of digestion; it is 

peeled chestnuts, brown gravy made in the made into bread, pancakes, waffles, muffins, 

roasting pan poured under the meat. mush and crackers. 

ROAST GOOSE WITH OYSTER STUFFING GRAPES, FROSTED Bunches of grapes dipped 

The birds prepared and filled with a stuffing into whites of eggs whipped into a froth, then 

made of a quart each of oysters, bread crumbs, into powdered sugar, surplus sugar then shaken 

and rolled oyster crackers, one-half a pound of off, hung till set and dry, then served, 

soft butter, four eggs, salt and pepper, roasted; GRAPE JAM Pulp the grapes, keeping the pulp 

served with a brown oyster or brown celery and sking separate) pour the pulp into a porce . 

lain lined kettle and bring it to boiling point, 

GOOSE WITH KRAUT, GERMAN STYLE then press through a colander, add the skins 

The goose prepared and trussed, arranged in a and measure; to every quart allow a pound of 

deep sautoir with well washed and drained sugar, mix, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, stirring 

sauerkraut, bacon and small bologna sausage, occasionally, pour into tumblers or jars, seal, 

an onion stuck with cloves, moistened with a If green grapes allow one-half pound more 

little broth and some fat from the top of stock, sugar to the quart. 

fetched to the boil, then simmered till done; G RAPE JELLY-Use freshly gathered ripe Con- 
served in portions with a garnish of kraut, bacon cordi clinton or lsabella grapeSi put them into 
and sausage. stone crockSi place the crocks in the bain-marie 

STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED TUR- of cold water, cover the tops and heat slowly 

NIPS The bird prepared and stuffed with till grapes are soft; now put a small quantity at 

grated bread seasoned with sage and thyme a time into a jelly bag and squeeze out the juice; 

leaves, parboiled minced onions, salt and pep- measure the juice and to each quart allow 2 

per, placed in a sautoir with an onion stuck Ibs. of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a 

with cloves, celery, parsley, little sherry wine porcelain lined kettle over a brisk fire, place 

and butter, lid placed on, then put into a hot the sugar in the oven to heat, boil the juice 

oven, baked and basted till done and glazy; rapidly for 20 minutes; then quickly add the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



sugar, stirring till it is dissolved; dip the glasses 
into hot water, watch the liquid, and as soon as 
it comes to the boil, remove from the fire and 
fill the glasses. 

GREEN GRAPE JELLY Fox grapes are the 
best; put the stemmed grapes into a porcelain 
lined kettle, barely cover them with cold water, 
cover the kettle, and boil slowly till the grapes 
are very tender, then drain them through a 
flannel jelly bag; to every quart of the juice al- 
low 2 Ibs. of granulated sugar, put the juice in- 
to porcelain lined kettle, bring to the boil, then 
add the sugar, and boil rapidly till it jellies, 
about 20 minutes, skimming off the scum as it 
rises; as soon as it jellies, dip the glasses into 
boiling water and fill with the boiling liquid, 
stand aside till cold and firm, then seal the 
tops. 

GRAPE FRUIT Also called "shaddock" and 
"forbidden fruit" and the largest ones "pompol- 
eons", a fruit of the orange species, plentifully 
grown in the West Indies and Florida, are of 
an agreeable acii grape flavor; served cut in 
halves across, with the sections loosened and 
the seeds removed; eaten with powdered sugar, 
a little sherry wine being a valuable addition. 

GRAYLING A prime game fish of fine flavor 
weighing from i to 5 Ibs, ; cooked and served in 
all the ways applicable to brook trout. 

GREENGAGE Called by the French "Reine 
Claude" a species of plum that when ripe re- 
mains green; used as a table fruit, in compotes, 
pies, jellies, ices, and as a sweet entree with 
rice. 

GRENADINS Name applied to the fricandeau 
of veal cut in half inch thick slices, then 
stamped circular with a biscuit cutter, these 
larded with seasoned strips of ham or bacon, 
arranged in a sautoir, moistened with a light 
colored strong consomme, reduced to a half 
glaze and the larding is cooked; served overlap- 
ping each other with a garnish of green peas or 
glazed root vegetables in forms, or with gumbo 
and egg plant, or a chipolata garnish, or with 
small stuffed tomatoes and tomato sauce, or 
with a Financiere garnish. 

GRIDDLE CAKES For recipes, see heading of 
"batter." 

G R O U S E Under this heading comes the 
"spruce", "ruffled", pintail", moor fowl", "cap- 
ercailzie", prairie chicken", "ptarmigan", etc. 

STUFFED GROUSE, MUSHROOM SAUCE 
The bird singed, drawn and washed, filled with 
a stuffing made from the liver, minced onions 
and mushrooms, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and 
pepper, strips of bacon tied over the breast, 
roasted; served with mushroom sauce flavored 
with sherry wine. 

GLAZED GROUSE, SAUCE TRIANON The 
birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, 
quartered, skin removed, dipped into a game 



glaze; served on a fancy croflton with sauce 
Trianon poured around. 

ROAST GROUSE, SCOTCH STYLE The 
birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, cut 
in quarters, served on toast with Bigarade 
sauce poured over, and garnished with slices of 
oranges. 

SALMIS OF GROUSE The birds trussed and 
roasted plain, taken up and cat into quarters, 
placed in a sautoir, moistened with game sauce, 
fetched to the simmer, flavored with sherry 
wine; served with sauce over, garnished with 
fancy croutons, the top of the bird sprinkled 
with grated orange r nd and minced truffles. 

ROAST GROUSE, HUNTERS STYLE The 
bird trussed and roasted plain, taken up and 
cut into quarters; served on toast with sauce 
poured over, made of 2 parts of Espagnole and 
i part tomato sauces, seasoned with minced 
fried shallots, lemon juice, minced mushrooms 
and chopped parsley. 

STEWED GROUSE WITH GREEN PEAS 
Stuff and truss young birds, roll them in butter, 
quickly brown them in a very hot oven, take 
out and place in a deep sautoir, moisten with 
game sauce, put on the sautoir lid, lei stew 
slowly till tender, take up and cut into portions, 
keeping them hot in a little sauce, the sauce 
they were stewed in then strained and skimmed, 
seasoned with sherry wine; served poured over 
the bird, garnished with green peas sautee. 

BRAISED GROUSE WITH GLAZED CAR- 
ROTS Truss the birds, arrange in a braziere 
with slices of bacon, celery, onion stuck with 
cloves, bay leaves, slices of carrot and turnip, 
a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, moisten 
with game gravy, slices of bacon placed on the 
birds and on the bacon a sheet of buttered 
paper, lid then put on, the birds braised till 
done and glazy, taken up, cut into portions, the 
braise strained and skimmed, then mixed with 
a rich brown sauce flavored with port wine; 
served with the sauce poured over and gar- 
nished with balls of sauteed and glazed carrots. 

ROAST GROUSE, BREAD SAUCE The 
breasts of the bird larded with seasoned strips 
of fat pork, trussed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper; rolled in melted butter, then in flour, 
roasted and basted till done; served with bread 
sauce at sides. 

STUFFED FILLETS OF GROUSE WITH 
QUENELLES Young birds trussed and 
roasted plain, taken up and filleted, the fillets 
spread with game forcemeat, arranged on a 
baking sheet, moistened and heated with game 
sauce; when to be served, dipped in a game 
glaze; served on a fancy crouton with game 
sauce and garnished with small game quenelles. 

BROILED GROUSE WITH BACON Young 
birds singed, split down the back, the back and 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



breastbone removed, thigh bone snapped, laid 
for half an hour in olive oil, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, broiled till done; served on 
toast with strips of broiled bacon, Maitre 
d'Hdtel butter, garnished with Julienne pota- 
toes. 

GROUSE CUTLETS BRE ADCRUMBED 
Young birds singed, trussed and roasted, taken 
up and jointed, skin removed, dipped into a 
thick cooling rich game sauce, then in sifted 
breadcrumbs, (not cracker dust) then breaded, 
and arranged on a baking sheet, sprinkled with 
melted butter, placed in oven, basted and 
browned; served garnished with Duchesse 
potatoes. 

GRUYERE OR SWISS Name of an imported 
cheese used both in cooking and for the table; 
is large, round, thick and flat in shape, has a 
peculiar nutty flavor and when cut is found 
to be full of small holes. 

G ROUPER- Name of one of our Southern fishes, 
found in three varieties, black, red and white; 
the shape is a cross between a carp and a bass, 
weighs from 5 to 10 Ibs.; the flesh is firm but 
coarse; a second class fish. 

BOILED GROUPER, CAPER SAUCE The 
fish prepared and boiled in salted water with 
a little vinegar (time to simmer about 40 min- 
utes), taken up and drained; served with caper 
sauce and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

BOILED GROUPER, MATELOTE GARNISH 
The fish prepared and scored, boiled whole 
in court-bouillon with a bunch of sweet herbs 
whsn done, drained; served in slices with a lit- 
tle lobster coral strewn over, garnished with a 
Matelote (see garnishes). 

GROUPER STUFFED AND BAKED, TOMA- 
TO SAUCE The fish scaled and washed, 
back bone and entrails removed, stuffed, put 
back in shape and tied with twine, baked whole 
with slices of salt pork; served in portions with 
a strip of the pork and tomato sauce poured 
around. 

BAKED GROUPER, GULF STYLE The fish 
scaled, head removed, split down the back and 
the backbone removed, laid out on greased pan, 
seasoned with mixed peppers and salt, placed 
in oven till heated through and set, then taken 
out, moistened with melted butter, returned to 
oven, baked with frequent basting till done 
and brown; served in portions with tomato 
puree around, and garnished with lemons. 

GROUPER SAUTE, LOBSTER SAUCE The 
fish prepared, cut in steaks, laid in seasoned 
olive oil, sau teed with it; when done and brown, 
served with lobster coral strewn over the por- 
tion and lobster sauce around. 

BAKED RED GROUPER, SPANISH SAUCE 
The fish cleaned and scored, arranged in bak- 
ing pan, moistened with white stock and some 



fat from the stock pot, seasoned with salt, veg- 
etables and a dash of vinegar, place in medium 
oven; when about a third done, remove the up- 
per skin, then baste frequently till done and 
brown, (about one hour is required for a 7 Ib. 
fish); served in portions with Spanish sauce 
poured around. 

GUAVA Name of a Southern and West Indian 
fruit that is chiefly used in making preserves 
and jellies. Guava jelly is one of the best to 
serve with delicate flavored game. 

GUINEA HEN A domestic fowl smaller than 
the ordinary chicken, with darker flesh, often 
takes the place of partridge; is best to serve in 
the spring of the year when game is a bit scarce. 

ROAST LARDED GUINEA HEN The bird 
singed and drawn, the legs and breast larded 
with seasoned strips of fat pork, rolled in but- 
tered paper, baked till done and brown; served 
with a brown poultry gravy, garnished with 
watercress. 

BROILED GUINEA HEN, WITH BACON 
Young birds singed, split down the back, the 
breast and backbones removed, thigh bone 
snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in flour, then in melted butter, broiled; served 
on toast with strips of bacon, Maitre D'Hotel 
butter, and garnished with Julienne potatoes 
and watercress. 

ROAST GUINEA HEN, SAUCE BEARNAISE- 
The birds singed and cleaned, trussed, slices of 
fat larding pork tied over the breast, roasted; 
when about done, the pork removed, then 
quickly browned; served in portions, garnished 
at ends of dish with fancy croutons, and Bear- 
naise sauce at the sides. 

BRAISED STUFFED GUINEA HEN The 
birds singed and drawn, filled with a quenelle 
forcemeat, the breasts larded, arranged in a 
braizer with vegetables and spices, moistened 
with stock and white wine, covered with strips 
of bacon, braised and basted till done taken up, 
the braise strained and skimmed, then rapidly 
reduced to demi glaze, which is then added to 
a Financiere garnish, the bird served whole or 
in portions with the garnish around. 

GUMBO Another name for the vegetable okra; 
for recipes see "OKRA". 

HADDOCK A fish of the cod species but 
smaller; when dried and smoked is known as 
smoked haddock or Finnan Haddie, from the 
village of Finnan near Aberdeen, Scotland, 
which is as famous for its curing haddocks as 
Yarmouth is for its bloaters. 

BAKED STUFFED HADDOCK-The fish scaled 
and cleaned, backbone removed, filled with an 
oyster stuffing, baked and basted till done; 
served in portions with a brown oyster sauce. 

BOILED HADDOCK, OYSTER SAUCE The 
fish prepared and cut in portions, boiled till 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



93 



done in salted water with a dash of vinegar; with milk and butter; served with a sauce made 
served with white oyster sauce and garnished of mustard, butter and lemon juice mixed to- 
with Hollandaise potatoes. (With boiled had- gether so that it is soft enough to melt when 
dock, egg, cream, Bechamel, parsley, shrimp, laid on the hot fish. 

lobster, crab and Hollandaise sauces are also HAGGIS Name of a Scotch national dish pre- 
pared by cutting into small pieces the heart, 
liver, milt and skirt, together with the lungs of 
a freshly killed sheep; after first blanching and 
boiling till tender each separate part, to each 
set of haslets as above is mixed one pound of 
finely chopped beef suet, one half pint each of 
minced onion and oatmeal, seasoned with salt, 
red and black pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, 
the whole thoroughly mixed and moistened with 
a little beef gravy, the mixture is then filled in- 
to a well cleansed sheep paunch, sewn up, 
pricked with a fork to allow air escape, plunged 
into boiling salted water, and kept simmering 
till done, about two and a half hours; served 
without any garnish. 

BUTTER Prepared and cut in fillets, rolled HALIBUT A large flat fish of the flounder 
in flour, broiled and basted with butter; served species, the young and medium sized ones be- 
spread with anchovy butter, garnished with ing the best, and known as "Chicken halibut". 
Saratoga chips, watercress and lemon slices. BOILED HALIBUT STEAK, CREAM SAUCE 

CREAMED HADDOCK WITH OYSTERS The fish scaled and trimmed, cut into steaks, 

cold boiled haddock in flakes without skin, simmered in boiling salted water containing a 
heated in Hollandaise sauce with an equal quan- dash of vinegar; served sprinkled with parsley 
tity of blanched and drained oysters; served dust, cream sauce at the sides, 
piled high on toast, sprinkled with parsley dust. BROILED HALIBUT STEAK The steaks sea- 
BAKED FINNAN HADDIE, BUTTER SAUCE soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then 
The fish trimmed and skinned, arranged in in olive oil broiled; served with maitre d'hotel 
a baking pan with a little water, placed in oven butter, garnished with watercress and lemon, 
till set, water then poured off, seasoned with sometimes with a strip of broiled bacon, 
pepper, moistened with butter sauce, baked; BOILED HALIBUT The fish scaled and trim- 
served with the sauce, garnished with parsley med, cut into portions, boiled in salted water 
and croutons. with a dash of vinegar; served with either lob- 

FINNAN HADDIE SAUTE, PARSLEY SAUCE ster ' clam - cream or Hollandaise sauces. 
The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm BAKED HALIBUT, EGG SAUCE The fish 
water for a few minutes, then saute'ed with but- 
ter; served on toast with parsley butter sauce 
poured over, garnish with watercress. 
FINNAN HADDIE BOILED, CREAM SAUCE 
The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm 



appropriate). 

FILLETS OF HADDOCK, SAUTE The fish 
cleaned, boned, cut in fillets, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, saute'ed in but- 
ter, taken up, gravy made in the pan, strained, 
the fish served sprinkled with parsley dust, 
gravy at the sides, garnished with Parisienne 
potatoes. 

FILLETS OF HADDOCK, BREAD CRUMB- 
ED, DUTCH SAUCE Prepared and cut into 
fillets as in the preceding, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then in sifted 
breadcrumbs, fried; served with Dutch sauce at 
the sides, garnished with cress and lemon. 

BROILED FRESH HADDOCK, ANCHOVY 



scaled and trimmed, cut into portions, arranged 
in baking pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
moistened with milk and butter, baked and 
basted till done; served with egg sauce, garn- 
ished with slices of hard boiled eggs. 

water for an hour, washed, then put to boil in FRIED HALIBUT STEAK, WITH BACON 

Slices of bacon blanched, then fried, the steaks 
seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, 
then dipped into beaten eggs, fried a golden 
brown in the bacon fat; served with strips of 



bacon. 



cold water; served with cream sauce poured 
over, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

FINNAN HADDIE BAKED WITH TOMA- 
TOES The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in 
warm water for an hour, washed blanched 

cut in portions, arranged in baking pan with HALIBUT STEAK SAUTE, TOMATO SAUCE 
sliced peeled tomatoes, minced fried shallots - The steaks seasoned with salt and neoner. 
and chopped parsley, baked; served on toast 
with the tomatoes around. 

FINNAN HADDIE BROILED, LOBSTER 
BUTTER The fish skinned, trimmed, blanch- 
ed, dried, seasoned with pepper, rolled in olive 
oil, broiled, served on toast, spread with lob- 
ster butter, garnished with watercress. 



FINNAN HADDIE BAKED, ABERDEEN 
STYLE The fish skinned and trimmed, baked 



The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, slowly saute'ed a golden color 
with butter; served with a sauce composed of 
equal parts of tomato pure"e and tomato catsup. 
CREAMED HALIBUT WITH MUSHROOMS 
Flakes of cold boiled halibut mixed with 
slices of saute'ed button mushrooms, moistened 
with Bechamel sauce, filled into deep oval or 
scallop dishes, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and 
melted butter, baked a delicate brown and 
served. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



HAM A leg of pork salted and smoked. Hams 
to be boiled, steamed or baked, should be soaked 
overnight in cold water, thoroughly scrubbed 
in the morning, and when cooking should be 
allowed 20 minutes time for each pound in 
weight. If to be kept for serving when cold, 
they should be allowed to cool in the water 
they were boiled in, as that keeps them moist 
down to the last cutting, even for a week or 
more. 

STEWED HAM WITH SPINACH The ham 
prepared and steamed as directed above, taken 
up, skinned; served in slices on a bed of spin- 
ach with brown sauce at sides. 

BOILED HAM WITH LIMA BEANS Soaked 
overnight, scrubbed, boiled for 20 minutes to 
the pound; served in slices with a garnish of 
fresh lima beans in brown sauce. 

ROAST HAM, CHAMPAGNE SAUCE The 
ham prepared, then steamed two-thirds of its 
cooking time, taken up and skinned, placed in 
baking pan in medium oven, baked and basted 
till done; but five minutes before taking up, 
sprinkle with sugar to nicely glaze it; serve with 
champagne sauce at sides. 

ROAST STUFFED HAM The ham prepared, 
then boned, the bone holes filled with pork 
forcemeat, drawn together and tied with string 
then sewn in a cloth, steamed two-thirds of its 
cooking time, then finished in medium oven 
after removing cloth and skin; served with cel- 
ery sauce or sauce flavored with celery salt. 

BRAISED HAM WITH VEGETABLES Pre- 
pared, boned and stuffed as in the preceding, 
tied in a cloth and boiled till within half an hour 
of its cooking time, then taken up, cloth and 
skin removed, placed in a brazier with a pint of 
Madeira wine, rapidly braised and basted till 
done and the wine reduced, taken up, Espag- 
nole sauce added to the braise with a little cur- 
rent jelly, boiled up, strained and skimmed; 
the ham served in slices with the sauce over or 
under, garnished with glazed root vegetables. 

CROQUETTES OF HAM WITH GREEN 
PEAS Cold cooked ham finely cat two- thirds, 
mixed with one-third of fresh mashed potatoes 
and a few egg yolks, seasoned with nutmeg and 
pepper, rolled into the desired shape, breaded, 
fried; served surrounded with green peas in 
Ve"loute" sauce. 

MINCED HAM WITH EGG Cold ham trim- 
mings minced, mixed with a seasoning of 
minced and fried shallots, parsley, cayenne 
and a little horseradish mustard, moistened 
with a little sauce or gravy, thoroughly heated; 
served heaped high on buttered toast, with a 
poached egg on top, or garnished with slices of 
hot hard boiled eggs. Creamed young carrots, 
Parisienne vegetables, Jardiniere, and aspara- 
gus tips also make a desirable garnish for this 
dish. 



HAMBURGER Or Hamburg steaks are minced 
beef with a little onion, a suspicion of garlic, 
salt and pepper seasoning, fried or broiled, and 
served either plain or with any of the sauces 
appropriate to steaks. 

TOMATOED HAMBURGER The same as 
above but freely mixed with raw tomato meat 
freed from skin and seeds; should be served 
with tomato sauce. 

HARE Practically the dark fleshed rabbit which 
attains a larger size than the common or white 
fleshed one, and which is also of superior fla- 
vor. We commonly call it the "Jack rabbit". 
The steward should watch to buy young ones 
only; an old or soft limp one is beyond the 
chef's ingenuity to prepare for table service 
and give the patronage satisfaction; the young 
ones are EASILY told by tearing the ears with 
the thumb and finger, IF THEY DO NOT 
TEAR EASILY, LEAVE THEM ALONE. 

STUFFED SADDLE OF HARE WITH JELLY 
The saddle from the shoulders to the legs, 
cut in halves across making two portions, boned, 
stuffed with game or other forcemeat, tied 
round with twine, arranged in baking pan, each 
piece covered with a slice of fat pork, roasted 
and basted till done, taken up, little brown 
sauce added to the pan, boiled up, strained and 
skimmed, then poured to the hare; served with 
red currant jelly and garnished with fancy 
crofltons. 

FILLETS OF HARE, POIVRADE SAUCE 
The legs and saddles marinaded for two hours 
in a little white wine with slices of carrot and 
onion, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the whole then 
placed in a sautoir with a little fat pork, lid 
put on, placed in hot oven, roasted and basted 
till done, about 45 minutes, taken up, poivrade 
sauce added to the residue, boiled up, strained 
and skimmed; served with the fillets, garnished 
with croutons. 

BRAISED HARE WITH GAME CRO- 
QUETTES- -The legs and saddles prepared as 
in the preceding, the fore quarters of the hare 
used to make the croquettes; served, the fillets 
on a fancy bed of mashed potatoes, the sauce 
around, garnished with the croquettes. 

CIVET OF HARE, HUNTER'S STYLE The 
shoulders are the best for this dish, slices of 
bacon blanched, then cut into even sized small 
pieces and fried, the hare rolled in flour and 
fried lightly in the bacon fat, both then put into a 
sautoir; to the remaining fat flour is added to 
form a roux, moistened with stock and red 
wine, boiled up, skimmed, then strained over 
the meat, to which is added a bunch of sweet 
herbs, parsley, onions, salt, pepper and a few 
whole cloves, simmered till done, bare and 
bacon then taken up into the serving pan, the 
sauce further thickened with the liver made in- 
to a paste, and the blood, (it must not be boiled 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 



95 



after the blood is in) then strained over the 
meat; served, garnished with fried button 
mushrooms and small onions that have been 
blanched, then fried. 

FILLETS OF HARE, SAUTES The legs and 
saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, or 
bacon fat, taken up into a sautoir, moistened 
with Bourgignotte sauce, simmered till tender; 
served garnished with croutons and slices of 
truffles on the hare. 

FRIED FILLETS OF HARE The legs and 
saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, taken 
up into a sautoir, moistened with game gravy, 
simmered a little while; served garnished with 
small poached quenelles made from the fore- 
quarters. 

LARDED SADDLES OF HARE The saddles 
boned and trimmed, tied into shape with twine, 
larded with seasoned strips of pork, rolled in 
buttered paper, roasted till done, taken up, 
paper removed, rolled in game glaze; served on 
fancy shaped toast with Poivrade sauce poured 
around. 

JUGGED HARE The hare cut into fillets and 
boned, the bones and head pounded, then 
boiled with vegetables in stock and red wine, 
the fillets lightly fried in bacon fat; stone crock 
lined with bacon, the fillets put in, the bone 
liquor thickened, strained over the meat, baked 
slowly till tender (about three hours); when 
done, grease skimmed off; served. It may also 
be made in individual dishes and served in the 
one it was baked in. 

FILLETS OF HARE, TOMATO SAUCE The 
legs and saddles larded and braised; when 
done, the braise strained and skimmed, added 
to a rich tomato sauce; served with the meat, 
garnished with croutons. 

CUTLETS OF HARE, PIQUANTE SAUCE 
The legs fried in butter, then simmered in 
game gravy till tender, taken up and cooled, 
then breaded and fried, Piquante sauce made 
from the gravy they were simmered in; served 
with the cutlets, garnished with slices of stoned 
olives. 

SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH FINE HERBS 
Fillets of hare cut into scallops, flattened, 
trimmed, sauteed in clear butter, taken up into 
a fines-herbes sauce to which is added button 
mushrooms, simmered till done; served piled 
high in centre of dish, garnished with small 
cone shaped croquettes made from the inferior 
parts. 

SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH TONGUE, 
SAUCE PERIGUEUX Prepared and sauteed 
as in the preceding recipe, taken up intoape'ri- 
gueux sauce; served piled high in centre of 
dish with circles of tongue overlapping each 
other around the base, garnished with small 
croquettes as in the preceding. 



HERRING The Lake Superior herring is the 
best for filleting, as its fillets are boneless; the 
fresh water herring of the lower lakes is not so! 
The blue backs or sea herrings are packed into 
barrels and shipped all over the States when in 
season, which is a very short one. 

BOILED FRESH HERRING, SHRIMP 
SAUCE Prepare by cutting off the head and 
fins, then scale, draw, wash and score the sides, 
put into boiling salted water and simmer for 15 
minutes, take up, drain; serve with shrimp 
sauce. 

BROILED FRESH HERRING, MUSTARD 
SAUCE Prepared herrings marinaded for an 
hour in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper, 
taken up, broiled; serve with a good anchovy 
sauce finished with mustard and lemon juice. 

FRIED FRESH HERRINGS, MUSTARD 
BUTTER Prepared herrings seasoned, rolled 
in flour, fried in clarified butter, served spread 
with melted butter mixed with mustard, garn- 
ished with parsley and lemon. 

BOILED FRESH HERRINGS, CREAM 
SAUCE Prepared herrings boiled in salted 
water slowly for 15 minutes, taken up, drained; 
served with cream sauce poured over. 

BAKED FRESH HERRINGS, FENNEL 
SAUCE Prepared herrings arranged in baking 
pan with a few bay leaves, moisten slightly 
with equal parts of fish broth and vinegar, 
baked and basted till done, taken up; served 
with a spoonful of the liquor over them, fennel 
sauce at the sides. 

BAKED STUFFED HERRING Prepared her- 
rings filleted and boned; spread with fish force- 
meat, the two sides then again put together as 
if the fish was sandwiched with farce, arranged 
in buttered baking pan, baked and basted; 
served with a Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 

CURRIED FRESH HERRINGS, WITH EGGS 
Boneless sides of herrings sauteed in clarified 
butter, taken up into a curry sauce made from 
fish broth, simmered a few minutes, taken up, 
coated with sauce; served on a long strip of 
toast, garnished with slices of hot hard boiled 
eggs. (Good dish for Fridays). 

BONED FRESH HERRING ON TOAST 
Split, boned, sprinkled with pepper, salt, 
thyme, rolled from tail to head, tied with twine 
or tape, baked in court-bouillon with a dash of 
tarragon vinegar; served on circles of toast with 
lemon parsley sauce. 

SOUSED HERRINGS Scale and draw the fish, 
cut off the heads, wash and drain, arrange in 
porcelain lined baking pans, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, ground allspice, a few bay leaves 
and shallots, moisten to two-thirds of their 
height with white wine vinegar, cover with 
another pan, place in oven and bake very slowly 
for an hour; served cold, wiped dry, garnished 
with watercress. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



HICKORY Name of one or. the common nuts, 
also called Pecans; used in cake making, decor- 
ating, flavoring, etc. 

HOE CAKES-Name of a Southern pancake made 
of ground maize, salt and water. 

HOT POT OR HOTCH POTCH A soup stew 
made and baked in a pot as follows: take a 
large eartbern crock, into it put four Ibs. of 
lean beef trimmings cut into inch pieces, one 
Ib. of small balls of pork sausage meat, one- 
half a cupful of sliced onions, one cupful each 
of sliced and peeled cucumbers, carrots and 
asparagus points, one pint each of green peas 
and skinned tomatoes, a handful of washed 
rice, one cupful of chopped green peppers and 
a small heart of cabbage shredded, season with 
salt and pepper (NO SPICES), add four gal- 
lons of cold water, place on the crock cover, 
put in a moderate oven at 6 a. m. and it will be 
ready for 12 o'clock dinner. 
Another hot pot is made with scrags of mutton 
instead of the beef and pork, substituting leeks 
and barley for the peppers and rice. 

HOMINY Is hulled maize, marketed in differ- 
ent grades as to size; the large is generally 
known as "hulled corn" is boiled like rice and 
served with milk; or boiled very soft, turned 
out into a buttered pan, when cold, cut into 
strips rolled in flour (never bread it), fried a 
delicate brown .and served either as a garnish, 
or for breakfast with maple syrup. When 
boiling hominy which is to be fried, always add 
towards the finish, some flour, as that will hold 
it together and stop it from breaking and spit- 
ting when being fried. 

BOILED HOMINY A breakfast cereal: fine 
hominy soaked overnight, boiled for two hours 
in a farina kettle; served with cream and sugar. 

HOMINY CROQUETTES The preceding when 
boiled mixed with a little grated cheese and 
flour, beaten egg yolks, salt and red pepper, 
poured into buttered pan, when cold, made in- 
to form, breaded and fried. 

HORSERADISH Name of a pungent root, 
grated fine and used as a table condiment, and 
in flavoring sauces; as a condiment is best as 
follows: One pint of grated horseradish, one- 
half a pint of white wine vinegar, salt, little 
sugar, mix and use. 

HORSERADISH BUTTER Equal parts of 
grated horseradish and butter well pounded to- 
gether with a seasoning of salt and lemon juice, 
then rubbed through a fine sieve; served spread 
over broiled steaks. 

ICES These include sherbets, cream ices, water 
ices, etc., in infinite varieties. 

CUP ICES Small fluted cups or glasses filled 
with fruit syrups and placed in a large tub or 
tray, with pounded ice and salt around them; 
when frozen a sufficient thickness, the remain- 



ing liquor poured out, the cups then replaced 
so as to solidify the part where the liquid re- 
mained, the cups then turned out, filled with 
any form of ice different in color to the cup. 

ORANGE ICES Oranges with a slice cut to 
form a lid, the interior and pith scooped out, 
the skins then soaked in water for an hour, 
then dried and filled with orange water ice 
mixed with French fruits glaces that have been 
soaked in a liqueur; they are then frozen and 
served. 

IMPERIAL ICES Ice cups made as above, 
then filled with strawberry water ice flavored 
with champagne Pineapple Water Ice flavored 
with Santa Cruz rum Cherry Water Ice fla- 
ored with Noyeaux, etc. 

FANCY WATER ICES Freeze solidly all forms 
of water ices in equal quantities, such as Nut 
Cream Ice, Madeira Ice, Claret Ice, Pistachio 
Cream, Raspberry and Strawberry Water Ices, 
Curacoa Cream Ice, Orange and Lemon Ices, 
Cherry Water Ice, Caramel Cream Ice, etc., 
then fill individual forms in shapes of fruit and 
flowers, close the molds, pack, freeze, turn out 
and serve. 

The same to be done with all kinds of ice 
creams such as Vanilla, Cherry, Chocolate, 
Tea, Coffee, Currant, Grape, Chestnut, Almond, 
Pistachio, Noyeaux, filled into individual forms 
of fruit and flowers, vegetables, etc , the idea 
being to have varigated colors, flavors and 
shapes. 

ICED SNOWBALLS Rice boiled very tender, 
in water, sweetened, flavored with orange or 
lemon juice, frozen in the shape of balls, then 
taken out, rolled in whipped cream, served if 
possible in a shallow green glass dish, the top 
of the ball sparingly spotted with green pista- 
chio gratings. 

NEAPOLITAN BRICKS Brick molds filled in 
three colors of ice cream or one of them may 
be water ice, so as when cut to show three dis- 
tinct layers, frozen solid, turned out, cut in 
slices. 

ICED FROTHS Fancy shaped glasses filled 
with whipped cream piled high, sweetened, 
frozen; served in the same glasses. 

IRISH MOSS An edible seaweed, gelatinous, 
reddish brown in color, good for those with 
delicate digestions in blanc-mange, creams, 
flawns, farinas, etc. 

IRISH STEW The neck chops of mutton that 
are under the shoulder, trimmed, gristle re- 
moved, boiled with the shanks from the legs 
and shoulders and other mutton trimmings till 
half done, taken up and stewed with potatoes 
and onions till tender in the strained and 
skimmed stock from the boiling, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, lightly thickened; served sprink- 
led with chopped parsley. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



97 



ISINGLASS A form of gelatine prepared from 
the swim bladder of the sturgeon; more expen- 
sive than gelatine without any appreciable bet- 
ter results. 

JARDINIERE Name applied to a garnish of 
small cut mixed vegetables, such as carrots, 
turnips, asparagus tips, cauliflower, stringless 
beans and some green peas, cooked in seasoned 
broth, drained; served plain or tossed with half 
glaze or meat gravy. 

JELLY A clarified, gelatinous combination of 
sugar, water, spices and colorings, flavored 
with wine, fruit juices, etc.; also made from 
calf's feet (see calf). To make the stock jelly 
use 2 qts. of water or fruit juices, 3 ozs. of 
dissolved gelatine, the grated rind and juice of 
4 lemons, i Ib. of granulated sugar, the broken 
whites and shells of 6 eggs, mix well, bring to 
the simmer; after it coagulates, allow the scum 
to assume a grey color, so as to perfectly clar- 
ify, then strain through a flannel bag three 
times and use for the following: 

FRUIT JELLY Stock jelly flavored with sherry 
wine, fancy molds filled an inch deep, allowed 
to set, then fruit arranged as a border; if cur- 
rants or grapes arranged in bunches; molds 
then gradually filled with limpid jelly and set. 

WEST INDIAN JELLY Stock jelly strongly 
flavored with Jamaica rum, fancy molds filled 
an inch deep and allowed to set, slices of 
bananas and sections of seeded oranges then 
arranged as a border, jellied and set, the mold 
then filled with limpid jelly, set, turned out and 
served. 

RIBBON JELLY Stock jelly in three parts, one 
colored with strawberry juice, one with cara- 
mel and flavored with brandy, the third 
whipped to a froth on ice, and flavored with 
benedictine, arranged in molds with six layers, 
each to be set before the other is put in, com- 
mence with the red, then the whipped, and 
lastly the caramel. These three colors and 
flavors look well in three triangles as follows: 
hold the mold so that you form a triangle shape 
of red jelly, set that, then reverse the side and 
form a triangle with the caramel, that leaves a 
wedge shape from the tip to the base, then fill 
up with the whipped jelly. 

PINEAPPLE JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
noyeaux, the mold filled with ii and pieces of 
pineapple. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY Stock jelly flavored 

with strawberry juice, the mold filled with it 

and whole strawberries. 
RASPBERRY JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 

red raspberry juice, the mold filled with it and 

whole raspberries. 
BLACKBERRY JELLY For this use a border 

mold, and when turned out, fill the centre with 

whipped cream. 



APRICOT JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
maraschino, the mold filled with it and halves 
of peeled apricots. 

MACEDOINE JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
maraschino, the mold filled with it and small 
whole fruits. 

RUSSIAN JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
liqueur, then whipped to a fioth on ice, filled 
into molds and set. 

PISTACHIO JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
Dantzic brandy, mold filled half an inch deep, 
shredded pistachios then strewn in, the mold 
then filled in with layers of jelly strewn with 
pistachios. 

ORANGE JELLY When making the stock jelly 
add the grated rinds of oranges and a little 
cochineal to give it the orange tint; when done 
and strained, fill into molds. 

LEMON JELLY Made the same as orange jelly 
except use grated lemon rinds, and omit the 
cochineal. 

JULIENNE Name applied to a garnish of 
shredded root vegetables, also to shredded 
potatoes. 

JUNIPER Name of a blue berry used for flav- 
oring gin; also adds a nice flavor to corned 
meat when a muslin bagful of crushed berriei 
is added to the brine. 

KALE A vegetable in appearance like endive, 
and in taste like green cabbage, cooked tho 
same as spinach. 

KHULASH OR GOULASH Name of a ragout 
much esteemed by the Hungarians; made by 
taking pieces of beef and sau toeing them with 
onions in butter, seasoning with salt and pap- 
rika, moistened with brown sauce, simmered 
till tender; served garnished with Hollandaise 
or Parisienne potatoes. 

KIDNEYS Recipes will be found under the 
name of the animal to which it belongs. 

KINGFISH Name of a Southern fish, exquisite 
in flavor, and of a nice size for restaurant and 
club service. 

BOILED KINGFISH, SAUCE NORMANDE 
The fish prepared, boiled in salted water with 
a dash of vinegar, when done, drained; served 
with Normande sauce, garnished with Hollan- 
daise potatoes. 

KINGFISH WITH FINE HERBS Prepared 
and trimmed, arranged in buttered baking pan, 
baked and basted with butter; served with fines- 
herbes sauce, garnished with Julienne potatoes. 

BROILED KINGFISH, LEMON BUTTER 
Prepared and trimmed, split down the front, 
laid open and the backbone removed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, brusned 
with butter, broiled and basted till done; served 
spread with MSitre D'Hotel butter, garnisfisd 
with chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. 



g8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 

KINGFISH SAUTE, SAUCE COLBERT SAUTE OF LAMB The shoulder boned and 

cut into neat pieces, saute'ed with minced 
onions and a flavoring of garlic in butter, raw 
skinned tomatoes cut in halves, and lightly 
fried with butter, taken up and added to the 
lamb, the whole then cooked for 20 minutes; 
served garnished with fancy croutons. 



Boneless sides of the fish seasoned with salt 
and pepper, rolled in flour, saute'ed with butter 
a delicate brown; served with Colbert sauce and 
garnished with Colbert potatoes. 
FRIED FILLETS OF KINGFISH, BREAD- 
CRUMBED Boneless sides of the fish sea- 



soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, BLANQUETTE OF LAMB The breast or 



dipped in beaten eggs, then breadcrumbs, fried; 

served with Maitre D'Hotel butter, garnished 

with lemon and parsley. 
KIRSCHWASSER Name of a liqueur made 

from cherry juice; obtained by crushing the 

fruit, stones and kernels, then fermenting; used 

as a flavoring to sherbets, cakes, icings, ices 

and confectionery. 
KOHL-RABI Name of the cabbage turnip; may 

be peeled, boiled, mashed and seasoned same EPIGRAMME OF LAMB Breasts of 

as turnip; or, as is best, peeled, cut in quart- 
ers, boiled in salted water till done, drained, 

then simmered in butter sauce a few minutes 

before serving. 

KOUMISS A milk preparation tasting like but- 
termilk, used as a health beverage; made by 

filling quart champagne bottles up to the neck 

with pure milk to which is added a syrup made 

by dissolving two tablespoonfuls of white 

sugar in one of water, also ^ of a 2-cent cake 

of yeast; corked and tied securely, shaken well, 

stood for six hours in a warm room, then cooled 

overnight by placing in ice box. 
KROMESKIES Name applied to any form of 

croquette mixture made into form of corks, 

finger lengths, wrapped in a thin shaving of 

cold boiled bacon, dipped in batter and fried. 
KUMMEL Name of a liqueur prepared from 

cumin and caraway seeds in sweetened spirit. 
ROAST LAMB Any joint roasted a quarter of 

an hour to each pound in weight in a medium 

oven; must be frequently basted; about 10 

minutes before taking up, should be dredged 

with flour and basted with melted butter, so as 



boned shoulder cut in neat pieces, seasoned with 
salt and white pepper, rolled in flour, quickly 
without coloring, saute 1 them with butter and a 
few minced shallots, take up in to a sautoir, make 
a cream sauce in the butter, etc., they were 
saute'ed in, strain over the lamb, simmer till 
done, adding some button mushrooms and a little 
chopped parsley; serve in a casserole, or with a 
border of fancy mashed potatoes. 

lamb 

simmered in seasoned white stock till the bones 
are easily removed (keeping the little rib bones) 
press the breasts ; when cold, trim and cut 
into cutlet shapes, point the rib bones and in- 
sert into the pieces of lamb, bread and fry one- 
half of them, roll in flour and saute 1 with butter 
the other half; served at the side of a croflstade 
filled with garnish, and a sauce at the sides; 
the saute'ed one should be brushed with light 
colored glaze; the croustade may be filled with 
Toulouse garnish, saute'ed lamb fries, mace 1 - 
doine of vegetables, green peas, asparagus tips, 
button mushrooms, diced lamb sweetbreads or 
brains, etc. 

FRICASSEE OF LAMB Breast of lamb cut 
into neat pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, saute'ed lightly with butter, 
taken up into a sautoir, moistened with thin 
white sauce, simmered till done, skimmed, 
sauce then thickened with a liaison of egg 
yolks and cream, seasoned with nutmeg and 
cayenne; served with a garnish of green peas, 
inverted molds of dry boiled rice, macedoine of 
vegetables. 



to take on a delicate color; served either with CURRIED LAMB Cold roast lamb cut into 
mint sauce or currant jelly in separate dishes, neat P ieces with tfa e skin removed; curry sauce 
with a spoonful of gravy under the meat. made from lamb or mutton stock, simmered in 

BRAISED LAMB-The shoulder lifted off and h tiu thorou K hl y heat ed; served within a bor- 
boned, leaving the shank for a handle, lay it der of dr 7 boiled nce ' 

out flat, season with salt and pepper, spread CURRIED LAMB Rack of lamb cut into chops, 
with forcemeat, roll up, tie in neat shape, trimmed, saut^ed with minced shallots, taken 

up into a sautoir, sprinkled with flour and 
curry powder, seasoned with salt, lemon juice 
and a dash of cayenne, moistened with white 
stock, simmered with a sprig of green mint till 
done, mint then removed; served within a bor- 



braise it with vegetables; served with the 
strained and skimmed braise, or with a garnish 
of turned vegetables green peas, glazed col- 
umns of turnips, stuffed egg plant and okras, 
Brussels sprouts, Milanaise garnish, asparagus, 
larded lamb's sweetbreads, etc. 
BOILED LAMB The legs simmered in white 



der of rice, potatoes, green peas, button mush- 
rooms, etc. 



stock with a bunch of sweet herbs till done, STEWED LAMB Scrag of lamb and the chops 
sHowing 12 minutes to the pound; served with from under the shoulder cut in neat pieces, 

simmered in white stock till done, sauce made 
of the broth; served with a sprinkling of pars- 
ley and a garnish of vegetables. 



cream sauce, caper sauce, spinach pure'e, sorrel 
puree, haricots verts, shred wax or stringless 
beans, macedoine of vegetables, asparagus tips. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



99 



CUTLETS OF LAMB The rack of lamb cut 
into chops and trimmed, then either breaded 
after seasoning, sauteed; spread on one side 
after lightly broiling with forcemeat or D'Uxel- 
les dressing, then finished in oven; served with 
a garnish of green peas, or any of the follow- 
ing: asparagus points, macedoine, button mush- 
rooms in sauce, Maitre D'Hotel butter, print- 
aniere, Villeroi sauce, Godard garnish, slices 
of stuffed cucumber, Toulouse or Financiere 
garnish, small new potatoes, pure"e of mint, 
stuffed tomatoes, pur<e of peas and Bechamel 
sauce, green peas and caper sauce, peas and 
asparagus points in Bechamel, Julienne vege- 
tables in Madeira sauce, saute of small new 
carrots cooked whole and seasoned with lemon 
juice, sugar and chopped parsley, puree of peas 
and the sauteed cutlets dipped in glaze, the 
cutlets larded, dipped in Perigord sauce, then 
breaded and fried; served with truffle sauce, 
Italian style i. e. sauted in butter just enough 
to set them, dipped in Italian sauce thickened 
with Parmesan cheese, when cooled, breaded 
and fried; served with Italian sauce; they may 
also be first set by lightly saute'eing, then dip- 
ping into appropriate lamb sauces, cooling, 
breading, frying and serving with a sauce the 
same as they were coated with. 

EMINCE OF LAMB Cold leg or shoulder of 
lamb cut in thin slices, then again into circles 
with a large column cutter, reheated with but- 
ter over a quick fire, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and powdered mint, then drained; into the 
butter is then placed some minced shallots; 
when lightly browned, flour added to form a 
roux, moistened with mutton broth, seasoned 
with salt, nutmeg, pepper, herbs and a dash of 
Worcestershire sauce, boiled five minutes, then 
strained over the lamb, which simmer for fif- 
teen minutes; served on toast. 

HASHED LAMB WITH POACHED EGG 
Roast lamb trimmings chopped fine and sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and finely chopped 
green mint, moistened with thickened roast 
lamb gravy, fetched to the simmering point; 
served on a slice of toast, garnished with tri- 
angles of buttered toast on which is a trimmed 
poached egg. 

RAGOUT OF LAMB The breast, chops under 
the shoulder, and the scrag, neatly cut and 
trimmed, fried a light color with butter, taken 
up, very small whole onions then fried in the 
butter, taken up and added to the lamb, flour 
then added to the butter to form a roux, moist- 
tened with white stock, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per, pot herbs and a crushed clove of garlic, 
Doiled, skimmed, strained over the lamb and 
onions, simmer till done; served with a border 
of fancy vegetables, macedoine, mushroom 
saute's, green peas, flageolets, new lima beans, 
Parisienne potatoes, small stuffed tomatoes, etc. 



STEWED LAMB, GARNISHED Preferably 
use the centre cats of the breasts, boil them 
with a bunch of green mint in seasoned white 
stock; when done, taken up and the bones re- 
moved, placed in a colander and washed with 
hot water to remove any scum; white sauce 
made from the broth, seasoned with salt, red 
pepper, lemon juice and nutmeg; when done, 
strained over the washed lamb in a sautoir, 
simmer, skim; serve sprinkled with parsley 
dust and garnished with small new potatoes of 
even size, green peas, asparagus points, mush- 
rooms saute's, small stuffed tomatoes, small rice 
timbales, forcemeat balls, a jardiniere of vege- 
tables, mixed haricots, potato croquettes, 
French beans, etc. 

LAMB'S FRIES The testicles blanched and 
trimmed, cut in halves, skinned, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, rolled in 
flour, then breaded and fried; served with 
tomato, Bearnaise, remoulade and trianon 
sauces, or on a bed of mashed potatoes and 
flanked with peas, flageolets, etc. May also be 
broiled and served on toast with Maitre 
D'Hotel butter, tartar or Bearnaise sauces, also 
fricasseed and served with a garnish suitable 
to sweetbreads. 

SCALLOPS OF LAMB WITH RICE Take 
cold lamb and cut into pieces the size of half 
dollars, simmer them in Ve'loute' sauce seas- 
oned with a little nutmeg. To serve: arrange 
some hot boiled rice grains around the edge of 
a platter, place the lamb in the centre and 
sprinkle with parsley dust, garnish the rice 
with scallops of red tongue reheated with a lit- 
tle butter. 

LAMB SWEETBREADS IN CASES Cooked 
lamb sweetbreads cut in dice two-thirds, diced 
mushrooms one-third, mixed, simmered in 
thick Ve'loute' sauce, filled into buttered paper 
cases or croustades, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, 
browned in a quick oven and served. 

LASAGNES Name of an Italian paste in the 
form of yellow ribbon, often used as noodles in 
soups, garnishes, etc. 

LEEK A plant of the onion species having a 
non-bulbous root and flat broad leaves; in fla- 
vor across between the onion and garlic; very 
valuable as a soup stock flavoring. 

BOILED LEEKS Young leeks trimmed and 
washed, tied in small bundles like asparagus, 
cooked till tender in boiling salted water, taken 
np and drained; served on toast with melted 
butter, Bechamel sauce or meat gravy. 

LEEK SOUP, SCOTCH STYLE-Leeks trimmed 
and washed, cut into pieces an inch and a half 
long, boiled in equal parts of chicken broth and 
beef stock, oatmeal added, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, simmered till done, skimmed, fin- 
ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. 



I00 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

LEMONS This country consumes in a year chine, enough of it worked into a Vlout sauce 

about 500,000,000 lemons, or about six and a to give a pronounced flavor; used for boiled 

half lemons for each man, woman and child. capons, chickens, turkey and fish. 

The California lemons are very good ones, and LEMON TRIFLE Small glasses with a piece 

only experts can tell them from the Mediter- of sponge cake at bottom, spread with lemon 

ranean crop. For culinary purposes the lemons marmalade, the glass then filled up high with 

of Sicily, i. e. from Messina and Palermo, are whipped cream that is sweetened and flavored 

to be preferred as they possess a much better vrith nutmeg, and the grated rinds and juice of 

flavor. A box of lemons averages about 300 lemons. 

each. From 1,500,000 to 2,000,000 boxes are LEMO N DUMPLINGS 4 Ibs of grated bread- 
sold in a year here. It is predicted that the cru a ^ Q{ fin ch d bee suet 2 
California crop will soon average 1,000,000 o{ dered y rinds and juice 
boxes. It will be interesting to note whether o{ ei h f lemons; rindS) crumbs> suet and 
they will drive out any or all of the foreign mixed er tfae whole then bound with 
lemons. They are used by the catering frater- tfae lemoQ mixed wkh jg beaten Q{ 
nity in large quantities for flavoring and gar- {orm into dumpling shapeS| boilin acloth. 
nishing soups, sauces, salads, meats fish, pies, J*^ tm done ^ * ; ^ best) . serve with 
puddings, cakes, jellies, extracts, confectionery, & sweet Jemon flayored cream sauce 
mixing with drinks, ices, sorbets, creams, etc. 

LEMON MARMALADE-Three dozen lemons, LENTILS-Name of a brownish red, flatted 

their equal weight in granulated sugar, lemons sma11 P ea ' cultivated on the European conti- 

halved and their juice extracted and strained, Dent and Asia as a f od = ll ! s a most nourishing 

the rinds boiled till tender in plenty of water, article - ^taming about twice as much nounsh- 
then drained, pith scooped out, the skins then 

finely shred, the juice and sugar then boiled to LENTIL SOUP Lentils boiled till done in sea- 

a syrup, after which is added the shredded soned white stock lightly thickened with roux, 

skins, boiling continued till reduced to the seasoned with salt, pepper, tomato catsup; 

marmalade consistency; used for steamed roly- served with crofltons. 

poly puddings, tartlettes, layer cakes, etc., etc. LENTIL SOUP Lentils boiled till tender in 

LEMON MINCEMEAT Useful for mince pies white stock, with leeks, celery, parsley and a 

in temperance hotels and other temperance piece of salt pork; when done, pork removed, 

functions. Made of 2 Ibs. of lemons, 4 Ibs. of the soup lightly thickened, then rubbed through 

sour apples, 2 Ibs. of beef suet, 4 Ibs. of cur- the tamis; served with croutons. 

rants, 2 Ibs. granulated sugar, y z Ib. each of CREAM OF LENTILS The preceding pure 

candied citron and lemon peel, ij^ ozs. grated mixed with an equal quantity of Veloute' sauce; 

nutmeg, ^ oz. of mace. The apples cored and served with croutons. 

minced, the candied peels finely shred, the LETTUCE One of the best of salad plants; 
suet finely chopped, the currants washed, seen on our mar k ets i n three shapes, called the 
picked and drained, the lemons pared and the cabDag e lettuce, Cos lettuce and Romaine let- 
juice extracted, the rinds boiled tender, then tuce 

minced, the whole then thoroughly mixed, al- LETTUCE SALAD _ Well washed , wiped and 

lowed to stand a week before using; brandy and P 

port wine may be added if used for other than , . 

. r rencn dressing'. 

LE e MO e N a CRE P AM-Two quarts of milk brought LETTUCE AND ONION SALAD-Same as the 

to the boil with a pound and a half of sugar; Preceding, adding very finely shred spring 

grated rinds of four lemons mixed with six onions. 

ounces of sifted flour, then made into a smooth LETTUCE SALAD Hearts of cabbage lettuces 

thickening with milk; when smooth, poured to washed and wiped dry, sprinkled with chopped 

the boiling milk and stirred till creamy, then is chives, chervil and tarragon leaves, then dashed 

added three ounces of butter, juice of the lem- with a dressing of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, 

ons and the yolks of 12 beaten eggs, continue LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD Well 

stirring till of a custard consistency; then re- washed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed with 

move and use for filling puffs, eclairs, lemon French dressing, garnished with peeled and 

cream pies, tartlettes, spreading layer cakes, sliced tomatoes having a drop of Ravigote 

etc. sauce on each. 

LEMON SOUP A rich cream of chicken soup LETTUCE AND TOMATO S A L A D Well 

nicely flavored with the grated rinds and juice was hed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed lightly 

of lemons. ^itb Remoulade sauce, add minced capers, 

LEMON SAUCE Lemons with seeds removed garnish with sliced peeled tomatoes spiinkled 

finely minced or passed through a mincing ma- with French dressing. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



LETTUCE AND CUCUMBER SALAD Well 
washed, wiped and broken lettuce leaves tossed 
and glistened with a dressing composed of 2 
tablespoons of olive oil well beaten with 3 
whole eggs, then add a dessert spoonful of rich 
cream and one of tarragon vinegar; served 
garnished with very thin slices of cucumber 
sprinkled with French dressing. 

BAKED STUFFED LETTUCE Trimmed, 
washed and drained lettuces, parboiled a few 
minutes, the insides then filled with sausage 
meat, the heads tied, arranged in a shallow 
sautoir, moistened with white stock and Ma- 
deira sauce, seasoned with salt and pepper, cov- 
ered with buttered paper, placed in oven and 
cooked till done, about 20 minutes; served with 
the string removed and the sauce poured over. 

LIMES A small kind of lemon, used in the bars 
for Rickeys and other drinks; served with 
oysters in preference to lemons, also with veal 
cutlets, fried soles, smelts and bass. At Mont- 
serrat the limes are cut in halves, the juice ex- 
tracted and bottled, then supplied to most ships 
at sea as a preventive of scurvy, British ships 
using it by law, so that an English ship is 
known amongst sailors as a "Limejuicer." 

LIVER For the following recipes either sheep's, 
lamb's, calf's, pig's or ox liver will do. 

RAGOUT OF LIVER Wash and dry a liver, 
steam it till quite tender, then cut it in slices, 
add it to a rich brown sauce or gravy, stew it 
till thoroughly heated through; served garnished 
with slices of lemon and hard boiled eggs. 

FRIED LIVER WITH ONIONS Liver washed 
and wiped dry, cut in slices, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon 
fat; served with sliced onions that have been 
fried, drained and lightly moistened with brown 
sauce. 

SAUTE OF LIVER Thin slices of liver and 
bacon, the bacon fried not crisp, the liver 
seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour 
and lightly fried in the bacon fat, then taken 
up and placed with the bacon in a sautoir; 
lightly fry then a little minced onion in the 
bacon fat, add flour, stir, moisten with stock, 
boil up, skim, pour it to the liver and bacon, 
simmer till done; served sprinkled with chopped 
parsley, garnished with croutons. 

LIVER AND SALT PORK Same as the pre- 
ceding, substituting salt pork for the bacon. 

LIVER PUDDING Liver and bacon cut in 
squares, stewed in brown gravy, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, then filled into pudding molds 
lined with paste, covered, cloth tied over, 
boiled or steamed for an hour and a half; serve. 

CURRIED LIVER WITH FORCEMEAT 
Equal quantities of udder and liver minced, 
then pounded and rubbed through a sieve, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, sweet herbs and a 



little sifted breadcrumbs, add an egg or two; 
when thoroughly mixed, form into balls, rolled 
into sifted breadcrumbs, fried brown, then 
simmered in curry sauce till done through; 
served with the sauce and garnished with slices 
of broiled liver dipped in Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 

LOBSTER SALAD Lobster meat with lettuce 
or celery and mayonnaise, arranged on a disb 
and decorated with shapes of beet root, capers, 
pickles, whites of eggs and quartered hard 
boiled eggs. 

MIROTON OF LOBSTER Slices of lobster 
meat, half of them dipped in cold white sauce, 
the other half in a cold cardinal sauce, served 
on a bed of shred lettuce with mayonnaise 
down the centre. 

MAYONNAISE OF LOBSTER-Lobsters (hens) 
boiled in court- bouillon, when cold, the tail 
and claw meat sliced into a dish, the creamy 
part of the head with the coral mixed with yolks 
of eggs, mustard, oil and lemon juice, then 
worked to form a mayonnaise, when done, 
mixed with the lobster meat; served garnished 
with shred lettuce. 

LOBSTER IN ASPIC CREAM Also called 
"Mazarins of Lobster". Lobster meat in slices, 
molds thinly lined with aspic and decorated 
with coral, truffles and egg whites. Aspic 
cream made by taking a pint of light colored 
aspic jelly, melt it and place in a bowl sur- 
rounded with broken ice, add to it a short half 
cup of white wine vinegar, two tablespoonfuls 
of granulated sugar, a level teaspoon of dry 
mustard, two teaspoons of salt and a seasoning 
of red pepper, beat with a whisk, and as soon 
as it thickens add oil and vinegar alternately, a 
little at a time till of a mayonnaise consistency, 
finish with a dash of lemon juice; when ready, 
add the lobster meat, fill into the decorated 
molds, and when finally set, wipe the mold with 
a hot cloth, turn out on the dish, decorate with 
green stuff and serve. 

LOBSTER CHEESE Same as the preceding, 
but the molds not decorated (larger molds); 
when serving, the meat cut in slices like bead 
cheese. 

DEVILLED LOBSTER The lobster boiled, 
cooled, split in halves, all meat taken from the 
shells without breaking them, the inside of shell 
then brushed with olive oil or butter. Fry some 
minced shallots with the brown meat of the 
claws in butter, add little white sauce, season 
with salt, red pepper and Bengal chutney; when 
thick, add the lobster meat cut in small squares, 
then fill the shells, sprinkle with bread crumbs 
and melted butter, brown off in a brisk oven 
and serve garnished with cress. 

SCALLOPED LOBSTER Also called "Lobster 
au gratin". Equal quantities of lobster meat 
and button mushrooms cut in small squares. 



102 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

added to a reduced Bdchamel sauce, with lob- taste, mix into a smooth paste with tomato 

ster coral or lobster butter and a little glaze, catsup, place between thin buttered bread, cut 

fill into lobster shells as in the preceding, finish on the bias and serve on a lettuce leaf. 

off and serve as above. LOBSTER TOAST Minced lobster meat sea- 

LOBSTER CROQUETTES Lobster meat and soned with salt and red pepper, then moistened 

button mushrooms in equal quantities cut into with rich cream, made thoroughly hot and 

very small dice, measure them, and for each served on buttered toast. 

pint, allow a pint of Ve'loute' sauce; boil the LOBSTER, BORDELAISE Lobster meat sau- 

sauce till reduced one third, then work in some t e"ed with a little minced onion, moistened with 

lobster butter and a liaison of egg yolks and equal quantities of Madeira and Chablis wines, 

cream, then add the lobster meat and mush- reduce to half glaze, then add equal parts of 

rooms, stir thoroughly, turn out into a buttered Espagnole and tomato sauces, bring to the boil, 

pan, cover with a sheet of oiled paper; when finish with chopped parsley and cayenne; serve 

cold and firm, shape into croquettes, bread, i n chafing dish. 

fry; serve with Perigueux, Poivrade or tomato LOBSTER NEWBURG Meat of two lobsters 

sauces. cu t j n j nc jj pj eces w jth some sliced truffles, 

LOBSTER CUTLETS Same as the preceding, saute 1 in butter for five minutes, then add a half 

forming them into shape to imitate a mutton cup of Madeira wine and reduce to one half; 

chop, using the small claws to imitate bone beat a cupful of cream with five egg yolks, add 

handle. it to the lobster, shuffle about till thick; serve 

RISSOLES OF LOBSTER-Same preparation in a chafin S dish ' 

as for croquettes, but instead of breading them, SALPICON OF LOBSTER Diced lobster meat, 

they are rolled into paste and fried. truffles and mushrooms added to a reduced 

LOBSTER PATTIES-Lobster meat cut in dice, Bechamel sauce; served either in paper cases 

mixed into a lobster sauce, patty shells filled or fanc y croustades. 

with it, top placed on; served on ornamented BAKED LOBSTER IN SHELL Lobster meat 

dish paper. cut into very small dice, seasoned with salt, red 

BOUCHEES OF LOBSTER Same as the pre- P e PPer, mustard, onion juice, Worcestershire 

ceding but smaller, (bouch^e means mouthful). sauce . chopped parsley and Bechamel sauce, 

STUFFED LOBSTER-The croquette prepara- filled into lobster shells - covered with bread ' 

tion filled into lobster shells, covered with crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown and 

sifted crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown served. 

and served LOBSTER WITH TOMATOES Small pieces 

STEWED LOBSTER-Lobster meat simmered o lobster in Bfechamel sau ", small tomatoes 

in a flour and butter sauce, seasoned with vin- stuffed with " P^ced inverted in patty pans, 

egar, mustard and red pepper, finished with a steamed . se ed hot h lobster sauce or cold 



, , 

glass of sherry wine; served on very hot toast, W1 | h as P 1C J 6 "^ or masked Wlth as ? ic 
garnished with lemon slices. 

BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER-Slices of lobster LOBSTER OMELET-Lobster meat in lobster 

meat from the tail, and very thin slices of par- sauce - enclosed within an omelet; served with 

boiled bacon, arranged alternately on a skewer, Aurora sauce down the sides. 

rolled in a mixture of melted butter, seasoned ESCALLOPED LOBSTER Lobster meat cut 

with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and in dice made hot in either Normande or Hollan- 

nutmeg, broil, carefully turning them; served daise sauces, filled into scallop shells or oval 

on a slice of very hot toast, with a little Miitre dishes, strewn with breadcrumbs and melted 

D'Hotel butter. butter, browned off and served. 

BROILED LIVE LOBSTER At least that is FRICASSEE OF LOBSTER Lobster meat cut 

what it is called, but the lobster is dead im- in slices, made hot in a rich Veloute sauce, 

mediately the head is split, even though the finished with a liaison of egg yolks and a dash 

flesh may quiver. The lobster split, the un- of lemon juice; served garnished with strips of 

eatable parts removed, seasoned with salt and buttered toast or toasted crackers. 

pepper, placed within a wire hinged broiler, LOBSTER AND OYSTER PIE Individual pies 

brushed with butter, broiled; served with for restaurants and clubs; blanched oysters and 

melted butter and lemons. lobster meat in equal quantities, a thick lobster 

CURRIED LOBSTER Lobster meat made hot sauce thinned a little with the oyster liquor, 

in a good curry sauce lightly flavored with individual pie dishes with the lobster and 

anchovy essence; served within a border of dry oysters, moistened with the sauce, strewn with 

boiled rice. chopped parsley, covered with puff paste, egg 

LOBSTER SANDWICH-Mash some cheese and washed and baked, (A RATTLING GOOD 

lobster coral, add mustard, pepper and salt to SELLING DISH). 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. , 103 

LOBSTER SOUP Equal parts of fish broth and MACARONI, ITALIAN S T Y L E Macaroni 

white stock thickened with roux, boiled up and broken into three-inch lengths and put to boil 

skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper and with a seasoning of salt and a pat or two of 

Harvey sauce, into the soup tureen place lob- batter; when done, turned into a colander and 

ster meat cut in dice together with the claws drained dry; meantime heat some tomato sauce 

and upper shell of the lobsters that have been and work into it a little butter and glaze. Into 

pounded and rubbed through a fine sieve, add a buttered pan place a layer of the macaroni, 

the strained soup with a glass of sherry wine; moisten it with the sauce, then strew with 

serve with croutons. Parmesan cheese, renew this operation till pan 

LOBSTER SOUP, CREOLE STYLE Court- is ful1 - strew the top plentifully with cheese, 

bouillon mixed with an equal quantity of Creole bake for half an hour in medium oven and 

sauce, boiled and skimmed, the soup tureen to serve hot. 

contain diced lobster meat, boiled rice, and a MACARONI AND CHEESE (PLAIN) Break 

little chopped green mint, add the soup and the macaroni and boil in salted water with a 

serve pat of butter till done, then drain, place back 

LOBSTER SOUP, MARINER'S STYLE-Court- int the sautoir and add to it a cupful each of 

bouillon seasoned with carrot, turnip, onion, melted butter, Parmesan cheese, grated Swiss 

celery and anchovy essence, thickened with ? eese ' and crea u m ' tos " '* wel1 OV * T a ^ uick 

corn starch, simmered till clear, soup tureen to fire; serve g^'shed with fancy croutons, 

contain lobster meat, lobster butter, small BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE- Also 

claws, small boiled onions, soup poured to it called "macaroni au gratin"; the preceding 

with a little sherry wine and served. when prepared, turned into a buttered pan. 

LOBSTER MULUGATA^EY-M*. .UI- S^.T^ed 

gatawney soup from court-bouillon, soup tureen 

to contain lobster meat and a little dry boiled baked a dehcate brown and served ' 

rice, soup poured to it and served. MACARONI (as the Monks like it)-Macaroni 

_ Tr ,^... T _ _._ T _._ _, ,, , , , , .. , broken, boiled and drained, then mixed with a 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER-Meat of fresh boiled ^ Q{ d ^^ and m ^ 

lobsters cut in dice, the tough parts with the 

shells and claws boiled for 20 minutes, the MArARONI AND r <, , FRENCH 

coral dried in a slow oven, little rice boiled in M ^?, o ? 

fish broth, make a thin Bechamel sauce from STYLE)-Broken lengths of macaroni boiled 

fish broth, add the liquor from the shells, 2O minutes ' drained ' *"* into a guttered 

then the rice and coral rub the whole through P an; mix ' nto ^ch pound ha f a cup of melted 

a tamis. bring to the boil again and skim, then bu " er a d a cu P ful / coarsely chopped cheese. 

pour it to the diced lobster meat; serve with to thls add a ^ uart of haison made <* water, 4 

lobster quenelles in each plate. e & 5 and ahttle fl " r ' P lace m a medmm . 9 

for ten minutes, then pour over all, without 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER-Pieces of ham, salt stirringi a pint and half of Bechamel parsley 

pork, parsley, sweet herbs, onions, lobster saucei bake brown and serve, 

meat and shells fried together with butter, lit- MACARON I AND TOMATOES - Macaroni 

tie flour then added, moistened with fish broth broken boiled and drained; ret urned to sau- 

boiled an hour, then rice added and boiled till toir and tQ each d of macaroni add half a 

tender, the whole then rubbed through a tamis. int each of minGed cheese browQ saace> and 

seasoned finished with sherry wine; served roast meat gravy also a pint of thick stewed 

atons - tomatoes; when thoroughly reheated it is ready 

LOCUSTS A curious sight in the market place to serve; or it may be turned into a buttered 

of FEZ is the daily arrival of wagon loads of pan, sprinkled with cheese and simmered for 

locusts. With the Moors who inhabit this part half an hour in a medium oven. 

of North Africa, locusts form a regular article MACARONI AND OYSTERS, MILAN STYLE 

of food; they are eaten in almost every style, Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, placed 

pickled, salted, dried or smoked, but never raw. in layers in buttered pan, the top of each layer 

The negroes on the northern coast of Africa covered with drained raw oysters, a sprinkling 

show a great partiality for locusts and eat from o f me lted butter, pepper and salt; when full, 

200 to 300 at a sitting. They remove head, the whole moistened with a thin cream sauce, 

wings and legs, and boil them for half an hour baked till set. Cooked and served in individual 

in water, take out and drain, season with salt dishes this is a good seller in clubs and res- 

and pepper, then fry with vinegar. taurants. 

MACARONI Name of a preparation of wheat MACARONI, CREOLE STYLE A pound of 

flour and water, that which is of home manu- macaroni broken, boiled and drained, one large 

facture being equally as good in grades as the onion minced with two cloves of garlic and 

imported. fried in oil; when of a pale brown, add two 



io 4 . 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



minced red peppers and a quart of tomato 
sauce, then add the macaroni, simmer and 
serve. 

MACARONI, GENOISE STYLE Macaroni 
broken, boiled and drained, then kept hot. 



drained; buttered mold, macaroni coiled close 
all round the inside, rilled with a *orcemeat of 
chicken, then steamed till firmly set, turned 
out; served with white Italian sauce poured 
over. 



Equal parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces MACARONI WITH SAUSAGES Macaroni 



mixed and fetched to the boil; served, sauce in 
bottom of shallow dish, macaroni on it, this 
then strewn with Parmesan cheese. 
TIMBALES OF MACARONI Macaroni boiled 
and drained, then cut into inch lengths, sea- 
soned with Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt; 



broken, boiled and drained; pork sausages 
boiled, skinned and cut into slices; buttered 
pan, layer of macaroni, then sausages, strewn 
with grated cheese, repeat till full, then a rich 
veal gravy poured over, baked half an hour in 
a medium oven, then served. 



to each pound of the macaroni is then added a MACARONI CROQUETTES Macaroni boiled 



half pint each of sliced button mushrooms, 
braised chicken livers and smoked tongue, a 
truffle or two, the whole mixed and slightly 
moistened with Italian sauce. Timbale molds 
butte r ed, coated with cracker meal, filled with 
the mixture, brushed with butter, baked brown, 
turned out; served, a little Spanish sauce on 
dish, timbale in centre, the top piled high with 
Parmesan cheese. 

MACARONI WITH LOBSTER BUTTER 
Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, a deep 
pan buttered, layer of macaroni, on it is spread 
lobster butter, that again strewn with Par- 
mesan, theu a little Bechamel sauce, repeat till 
pan is full, then place in oven and thoroughly 
heat without browning; served in portions 
decorated with slices of lobster meat alternated 
with slices of truffle. 

BUTTERED MACARONI Macaroni broken, 
boiled and drained; while still hot, each por- 
tion served by putting a spoonful of melted 
butter in oval dish, then the macaroni, tossed 



and drained, cut in small pieces, returned to 
sautoir, to which is then added grated ham and 
tongue, minced mushrooms and truffles, Parm- 
esan cheese and a little thick Veloute' sauce; 
reheat thoroughly, turn into a buttered pan 2 
or 3 inches deep, cover with buttered paper and 
allow to set firm; then stamp out with the larg- 
est sized column cutter, the columns then 
rolled in Parmesan cheese, then breaded, fried 
and served with Trianon sauce composed of 
equal parts of Bearnaise and reduced tomato 
sauces, carefully mixed together. 
MACARONI PUDDING Macaroni broken, 
boiled with sweetened milk, grated lemon rind 
and a stick of cinnamon; when done drained, 
the milk returned to the fire, brought to the 
boil, thickened with a liaison of egg yolks, 
cream and a little corn starch; when to cus- 
tard thickness, removed, seasoned with nutmeg; 
macaroni in deep buttered pan spread with 
preserves or marmalade, the custard poured 
over, baked and served. 



in the butter and strewn while tossing with MACARONI WITH HAM Take cold ham trim- 
Parmesan cheese. mings, put through a mincing machine, use it 

instead of cheese, and bake, au gratin. 
MACARONI CREAMED WITH EGGS Mac- 
aroni broken, boiled and drained, then tossed 
over a quick fire with butter; meantime make 
some scrambled eggs with cream, equal the 
amount of eggs with Parmesan cheese, add both 



MACARONI WITH FISH FLAKES Proceed 
as in recipe given for macaroni and oysters; 
substituting either flakes of boiled fresh cod- 
fish, redsnapper, salmon, salmon trout, white- 
fish or pike for the oysters. 

MACARONI WITH LAMB KIDNEYS Maca- 
roni broken, boiled and drained; lamb kidneys 
sliced and sauteed with butter; buttered pan, 



to the hot macaroni, keep hot and serve as 
called, (do not let it boil). 



layer of macaroni, on it, a layer of the kidneys, MACARONI WITH TOMATO PUREE Mac- 



moisten with tomato sauce, repeat till pan is 
full, the top then covered with slices of hard 
boiled eggs, these thickly strewn with Parme- 
san cheese, placed in oven till of a delicate 
brown, then served. 

MACARONI WITH SPINACH PUREE Mac- 
aroni broken, boiled and drained; spinach well 
washed, boiled, drained, rubbed through sieve, 
moistened with rich roast veal gravy; buttered 
pan, layer of macaroni, then spinach; strew 
with Parmesan, repeat till full, then bake half 
an hour in a medium oven, and serve. 

TIMBALE OF MACARONI AND FORCE- 
MEAT Macaroni boiled in full lengths, 



aroni broken, boiled and drained; tomato 
puree thick, containing a little grated ham and 
a slight flavor of garlic, layers of each strewn 
with Parmesan in buttered pan till full, bake 
and serve. 

MACARONI SOUP Macaroni broken, boiled 
and drained, add to a rich beef broth, or in 
tomato soup, or chicken broth, etc. When 
turning the soup into the tureen on steam table, 
place some Parmesan cheese in the bottom, or 
else serve a butter chip full with each portion, 
(club or restaurant service). 

CREAMED MACARONI Macaroni b r oken, 
boiled and drained, returned to sautoir, moist- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 105 

ened with Ve'loute' sauce; served strewn with ter; served with a brown fish sauce at the sides, 

Parmesan and garnished with puff paste crou- garnished with green stuff and lemon, 

tons (made in leaf shape from trimmings). SOUSED MACKEREL Heads and tails re- 

MACE The inner shell that covers the nutmeg; moved, the fish drawn and wiped, arranged in 

used in its blade form as a flavoring to soups pan with whole peppers, allspice, bay leaves 

and sauces; in its ground or powdered form, and cloves, cover them with equal quantities of 

as a flavoring to sweet sauces, puddings, mince- white wine vinegar and water, bake slowly for 

meats, cakes, etc. one hour, serve cold, either plain or with Rav- 

MACEDOINE A French term used to indicate igote sauce. 

a mixture of fancy cut vegetables or fruits; the BAKED STUFFED FILLETS OF MACKEREL 

former either plain or mixed with sauce is used Split, bone and wipe the fish, season with 

in soups or as a garnish, the latter generally in salt and pepper, quickly set the cut side by 

sweet jellies. lightly frying in butter; make the stuffing of 

MACKEREL A fine salt water fish enjoyed by fresh grated breadcrumbs moistened with Alle- 

most people; it should not be washed, wipe it mande sauce and seasoned with minced fried 

dry with a clean cloth, cut off the fillets, sea- shallots, chopped parsley, anchovy essence and 

son with salt and pepper, score the skin lightly, Harvey's sauce; spread it on the fried side, 

squeeze a little lemon juice on the flesh, broil smooth, arrange on buttered baking sheet, 

it skin side down first, serve it with maitre d' bake; serve garnished with potato croquettes 

hotel butter, garnish with Julienne potatoes, and lemon. 

and you have the dish of an epicure. BOILED SALT MACKEREL No. i mess are 

BOILED MACKEREL Draw and wipe the the best; soak them overnight in cold water, then 

fish, boil it plain in salted water; serve with rinse in clear running water, then lay them for 

melted butter separate, garnish with Hollan- an hour in milk, put to boil in cold water, when 

daise potatoes and half a lemon. done, serve with melted butter, miitre d'hotel, 

BOILED MACKEREL Head removed, cut in mustard, or parsley sauces. 

halves across, drawn, wiped, boiled in sea- BROILED SALT MACKEREL Extract the 
soned fish broth containing an onion, bunch of salt as in the preceding, then wipe dry after 
parsley and a little Chablis wine; when done taking them out of the milk, season with pep- 
(about 12 minutes) serve either with parsley, per, brush with butter, broil; serve with melted 
caper, olive, drawn butter or Ravigote sauces. butter, garnished with parsley and lemon. 
BUTTERED MACKEREL Fillets of mackerel MADEIRA Name of a wine. Sauces, cakes, 
wiped dry, placed into a sauce made of melted ices and jellies so named are supposed to con- 
butter seasoned with anchovy essence, a little tain some of it, which rarely happens, sherry 
mustard, lemon juice, ground mace and red and Marsala usually being substituted, 
pepper, stew slowly for twenty minutes, then MADELINES Name given to small cakes baked 
serve. io fancy patty pans, made of a pound mixture, 
BROILED STUFFED MACKEREL Draw the viz: a pound each of butter, sugar, sifted flour, 
fish and wipe dry; make the stuffing of cold but- e gg s ( ten ) and a wine g lass of c g nac : some 
ter with a very little fresh grated bread crumbs, also add sultana raisins, currants and candied 
chopped chives and shallots, lemon juice, salt peels. 

and pepper, stuff the opening where drawn, roll MAITRE D'HOTEL Name applied to a sauce 

in buttered paper, tie the ends, broil slowly till and a garnish (the literal meaning of the name 

done, remove the paper; serve at once garnished is a steward). The sauce is composed of melted 

with green stuff and lemon. butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice, and 

BAKED FILLETS OF MACKEREL The fish is used chiefly with broiled meat and fish; quar- 

wiped and filleted, the fillets baked and basted tered boiled potatoes in the sauce is the garnish 

with maitre d'hotel butter; served with a for boiled fish; and quartered lemons with the 

brown fish sauce centaining chopped chervil, meat is the garnish. 

tarragon, minced truffle peelings and a flavor- MALLARD Name of our best and largest wild 

ing of port wine. duck. 

FRIED MACKEREL, BUTTER SAUCE Fil- ROAST MALLARD, AMERICAN STYLE The 

lets of mackerel wiped, seasoned with lemon birds plucked, singed, drawn and trussed, then 

juice, salt and red pepper, dipped in flour, roasted rare 30 to 40 minutes, jointed, the 

then into beaten eggs, fried in hot fat; served joints kept hot; the carcasses stewed down with 

with lemon butter sauce, garnished with Parisi- herbs and seasonings, sauce made from it, fin- 

enne potatoes. ished with currant jelly and port wine, served 

FILLETS OF MACKEREL, SAUTES The with the J n ts- 

fillets wiped seasoned with salt, red pepper and MALLARD, PROVENCALE STYLE The 

lemon juice, rolled in flour, saute"ed with but- birds plucked, singed, drawn, stuffed, trussed, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



roasted and served in portions with the gravy 
from the birds mixed with shallot sauce. 

BROILED MALLARD, MAITRE D'HOTEL 
The birds plucked, singed, split down the back; 
back and breastbones removed, laid skin down- 
wards in a pan, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
olive oil, marinaded in this for 15 minutes, 
then broiled rare; served with mHitre d'hotel 
butter and garnished with water cress. 

FRIED MALLARD, ORANGE SAUCE The 
The birds prepared, split down the back, back 
and breastbones removed, thigh bone snapped, 
marinaded for an hour in olive oil with a few 
chopped onions, parsley and mushroom ketch- 
up, taken up, fried rare with a little olive oil; 
served with Bigarade sauce. 

FILLETS OF MALLARD, GAME SAUCE 
Prepare and roast as for American style above; 
when done, take off the fillets, stew down the 
carcasses in game sauce with a few shallots, 
port wine and a piece of game glaze, strain 
through a fine chinee cap, finish with cayenne 
and lemon juice; served with the portions. 

SALMIS OF MALLARD The birds plainly 
roasted very rare, jointed, the joints skinned; 
carcasses and skins then boiled down with 
herbs, cloves, whole peppers, bay leaves and 
fried shallots; when reduced, made into a 
sauce, strained and skimmed, finished with a 
little glaze and port wine, joints then put in 
and simmered for 15 minutes, afterwards kept 
hot but not allowed to boil; served garnished 
with croutons. 

MANGO Name of a most superb torrid climate 
fruit, about the size of a large lemon, the inter- 
ior of a pulpy nature attached to a stone in size 
like that of a large peach stone. On account of 
its perishability in transport, we obtain it 
chiefly as a pickle, jelly, chutney or preserve. 

MARASCHINO A very fine liqueur of Italian 
origin, obtained from the Marasca cherry, 
plum and peach kernels; used both as a drink 
and a flavoring to jellies, ices, sauces, puddings, 
meringues, etc., etc. 

MARINADE A pickling mixture made of oil, 
vinegar, lemon juice; salt, pepper, herbs, Wor- 
cestershire sauce, anchovy essence, onions, 
bay leaves, whole peppers, whole cloves, and 
parsley, the different ingredients above being 
variously added to the oil; vinegar or lemon 
juice according to the fish, flesh or fowl to be 
marinaded, the article being steeped for an hour 
or so prior to being cooked so as to either en- 
rich or bring out the flavor in cooking. 

MARJORAM Name of a garden herb used as a 
flavoring to soups, sauces and stuffing for fish 
and fowl. 

MARMALADE Another name for jam, marma- 
lade being the word mostly used in this coun- 
try. Recipes for its making are found under 
the fruit headings which can be used. 



MAR RONS French name for chestnu.s. The 
French take the large nuts and preserve them 
by candying, then export them either in cans 
with syrup, or crystalized. 

MARROW The contents of leg of beef bones, 
especially the bone of the buttock, which runs 
between the thick flank, top side and silver side, 
the buttock generally being termed the round. 
The top side of the buttock makes very fine 
steaks indeed, and in England fetches 250 per 
pound; the silver side of the buttock being used 
for boiling either fresh or salt, and fetches i6c 
per pound. The marrow bone should be sawn 
in three pieces, the marrow taken out, blanched 
in boiling milk and water for a minute, cooled, 
then cut in slices to lay on a steak, over which 
may be poured fines-herbes sauce, or it may be 
cut in pieces and mixed with chopped mush- 
rooms, onion and parsley, and filled into paper 
cases that have been buttered and lined with 
breadcrumbs, then baked and served; or into 
fancy paste croustades; or it may be cut into 
small dice, seasoned, mixed with cream and 
beaten eggs, filled into patty pans lined with 
puff paste and baked; or again simmered in 
white Italian sauce and used as a bcuch^e or 
small patty filling; again cut into long pieces, 
dipped in a frying batter, fried and served with 
a tomato pure"e; made into quenelles by adding 
an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a little 
flour, salt, pepper and egg yolks, pound, rub 
through a sieve, form with spoons, then poach. 

MARZIPAN Name given to an almond paste 
used by confectioners; made of 14 ozs. of sweet 
almonds, two of bitter, one pound of powdered 
sugar, a flavoring either of orange flower or 
rose water; the almonds are blanched, dried, 
pounded with the sugar and flavoring to a paste, 
then put into a preserving pan and stirred 
over the fire till it clings in a mass to the spat- 
ula, it is then formed into rolls, cut in slices 
and baked in a very cool oven till of a light 
brown color, or forced through a bag and tube 
into ring shapes, dusted with sugar and baked. 

MASTIC An aromatic resin used for flavoring 
chewing gum. 

MATELOTE Name of a fish stew or garnish for 
fish, (a la Matelote means in sailor's style). 
See garnishes. 

MAYONNAISE Name of a salad dressing, also 
as a decorative sauce for cold fish. Made with 
a pint of olive oil, half a pint of white vinegar, 
juice of two lemons, five raw egg yolks, one 
ounce of dry mustard, salt and red pepper to 
taste; place the cold yolks and mustard in a cold 
bowl, thorougly mix, then drop by drop stir in 
one-fourth of the oil, when like butter gradually 
thin with some of the liquid, then add the salt, 
when it will be found to have thickened right 
up again; then finish stirring in the remaining 
oil and liquid at alternate intervals, finish with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



107 



the red pepper (some add a little powdered 
sugar with the pepper). When finished it 
should be thick enough to mask a fish or salad 
without running off. 

ASPIC MAYONNAISE Equal parts of mayon- 
naisse and bright aspic jelly barely melted, 
beaten together, used to set mazarins. 

MAZARINS Molds of decorated fillets of fowl, 
game or fish, set with aspic mayonnaise, turned 
out when cold and firm, decorated and sent to 
table. 

MEDALLIONS Name given to medal size and 
shaped pieces of savory foods, such as f oie-gras, 
potted tongue, ham, etc., jellied meats. They 
are always nicely decorated and generally used 
as an appetizer or hors d'oeuvre. 

MELONS Name of a fruit largely contained of 
water; the watermelon and the different varie- 
ties of canteloupe; the latter being used gener- 
ally as a breakfast appetizer, and the former as 
a dinner dessert; preserved watermelon rind 
makes a fine preserve for the summer tea. 

MELON PRESERVE Cut the watermelon rind 
into small pieces, place 20 Ibs. into a tub, 
sprinkle it well with a pint of salt, just cover 
it with cold water and allow it to marinade for 
five hours, then drain, and again cover it with 
cold water and soak for two hours, changing 
the water three times, then drain, put on the 
fire in a preserving pan, cover with boiling 
water, bring to boiling point, then drain again; 
make a syrup of ten pounds of sugar and six 
quarts of boiling water, boil and skim, then add 



Menus in the languages of Europe. They do 
not print the Menus in France in the American 
language; then why should we print our Ameri- 
can bills of fare in French, or as is generally 
the case in half French and half American? 
For example: "Veal cutlet a la Francaise," 
or "Small patties de volaille," why not put 
Small patties of chicken"? Everyone knows 
what chicken is and will order it, but all do not 
know that volaille translated means fowl. 

One of my first thoughts in 'writing' this 
handbook vjas to abstain from French terms. 
I said to my self, I WILL WRITE AN AMERI- 
CAN CULINAR Y HANDBOOK FOR AMERI- 
CANS. I have heard it frequently stated that 
the terms for the bill of fare could not be prop- 
erly represented in the American language. 
I SAY IT CAN, and as a proof positive you 
have it here. There are no French terms used 
for the receipts of this book, and the headings 
as given are what should in my opinion be 
placed on the bill of fare, as perfectly adequate 
in describing the dish. 

MERINGUE Name given to a mixture made 
by whipping whites of eggs to a stiff froth, 
then working in sugar, and sometimes flavor- 
ings and colors; used as a covering to cup 
custards, puddings, cream pies, shortcakes, 
florentines, etc., as an icing for cakes; also when 
of a firm mixture forced through a bag and tube 
into shapes, then baked dry without much color, 
the insides are then scooped out and used as a 
receptacle for ices, ice creams, creams, etc. 



the melon rind, and slowly simmer till tender; MILANAISE Name of a garnish composed of 
skim out the rind, place it on draining sieves strips o{ white chicken meat, red ham, black 

truffles and pipe macaroni worked into a ve'loute' 
sauce, finished with a little Parmesan cheese. 
MILT Name of the soft roe of fish. 



for two hours in a warm place to set; when 
hardened place into cold crocks; boil up the 
syrup again with the sliced peel and juice of 
eight lemons and two ounces of sliced ginger, 
boil ten minutes, then strain over the fruit in MINCEMEAT Ten pounds of sound cooking 



the crocks. 

MENU French term for "bill of fare". Why 
should the word MENU head our American 
dinner bills? Why should the progressive Ameri- 
can ape dying France? Why should the Ameri- 
can culinary student detest the kitchen be- 
cause he cannot twist his tongue around the 
French culinary a la this and that? Is not the 
American flag dear to the American? Then 
why net the American language? Does not the 
farmer, mechanic, layman and every American 
who patronizes hotel, restaurant and club life 
know the meaning of the term "bill of fare"? 
Then why put the French word "MENU" at the 



apples chopped fine, ten pounds of raisins 
seeded and chopped, five pounds of currants 
thoroughly cleaned and freed from grit, % 
pound each of orange and lemon candied peel, 
two pounds of citron all shredded, ten pounds 
of granulated sugar, a mixture of ground spice 
(made of five grated nutmegs, a dessert spoon- 
ful each of cloves, mace, allspice, cinnamon 
and black pepper), seven and a half pounds 
each of beef suet and boiled lean beef chopped, 
half a cup of salt, mix well, then moisten with 
the juice of ten oranges, a quart each of good 
brandy and Jamaica rum and enough old cider 
to form a stiff consistency. 



head, and the generally mongrel Frenchy terms MINT A garden herb, used as a soup and sauce 



throughout the bill of fare? When in Rome do 
as the Romans do; then when in America do 
as the Americans do. Let those from France, 
or the French scholars, read the plain home- 
like American language on our bills of fare, the 
same as the traveling American has to read the 



flavoring; mint sauce for lamb made by finely 
chopping fresh green mint, then place it in a 
tureen adding to it the grated rind and juice of 
a lemon; bring to the boil with enough sugar 
to be palatable, one pint of good vinegar, pour 
it to the mint, let cool and serve. 



i 08 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



MOLASSES A thick liquid obtained from sugar 
in its process of refining; used for cakes, pud- 
dings, candy, etc. 

MULLET A small sea fish of the Southern 
coasts, seldom seen at table, as the gray is too 
common, and the red too scarce. The red 
should be just wiped, the entrails drawn, leav- 
ing the liver and trail in the fish, roll them in 
olive oil, sprinkle with parsley, broil them in 
paper cases and serve with Italian, Ravigote 
or fine herb sauce. The gray mullet may be 
treated in any of the forms applicable to herrings 

MUSHROOMS An edible fungi, umbrella 
shaped, dark gills, with easily removable skin; 
if those sold you have white gills and the skin 
will not strip easily, but breaks off in bits, dis- 
card them, they will probably be found to be 
toadstools. At least 70 per cent, of the mush- 
rooms used in culinary preparations are canned 
button mushrooms and morels. Fresh mush- 
rooms are seldom used in sauces on account of 
their color. The following recipes will use 
canned, except where stated. 

PUREE OF MUSHROOMS Canned button 
mushrooms minced, saute*ed with butter for five 
minutes, moistened with ve*loute" sauce, reduce 
quickly, then add some thick cream and lemon 
juice, reduce five minutes more, then rub 
through a tamis for use. 

MUSHROOM GARNISH Canned mushrooms 
drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
boiled down with a seasoning of salt, lemon 
juice, butter and a little white stock, when 
nearly dry, the liquor added, the whole then 
put into a thick Allemande sauce and used to 
garnish white entries, or put into a rich Espag- 
nole sauce to garnish brown entries. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS, ITALIAN SAUCE 
Large fresh mushrooms skinned, stalk removed, 
placed skin side downward in a buttered baking 
pan, filled with the following: Mince the stalks 
with some shallots, parsley, fat bacon, lean 
ham and thyme leaves, saute" them in olive oil 
for five minutes, then work in some egg yolks, 
season with salt and pepper; when filled, 
sprinkle with breadcrumbs and melted butter, 
bake till nicely browned (about 20 minutes); 
serve with brown Italian sauce poured around, 
garnish with fancy croutons. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST Medium 
sized fresh mushrooms skinned and the stalks 
removed, wash in cold water containing a dash 
of vinegar, drain, arrange in a buttered baking 
pan skin side downward; into each then place 
half a pat of butter, bake till done (about 20 
minutes) basting with the butter once or twice; 
serve on buttered toast garnished with tufts of 
fried parsley. 

BROILED MUSHROOMS Large fresh mush- 
rooms skinned and the stalks removed, dipped 



in melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
placed in wire hinged broiler, broiled till done; 
meantime slice the stalks very thin and saute 
them with butter and a little chopped parsley; 
serve the mushrooms on toast, or as an accom- 
paniment to steaks, cutlets, etc., adding the 
sauteed stalks. 

MUSHROOMS IN CROUSTADES Small fresh 
button mushrooms peeled, washed, drained, 
saute'ed with butter, chopped chives and pars- 
ley, seasoned with salt and pepper, just moist- 
ened with Allemande sauce and a dash of lemon 
juice, filled into fancy paste, or fried bread 
croustades and served. 

SAUTE OF MUSHROOMS Medium sized fresh 
mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, sauteed 
with butter and minced shallots, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, moistened slightly 
with chicken broth, then reduce; serve on toast, 
or on platter garnished with strips of buttered 
toast, or as a garnish. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS, CREOLE STYLE 
Medium sized fresh mushrooms peeled and 
washed, stalks removed and minced with a lit- 
tle celery and green peppers, saute the mince in 
olive oil, then moisten with chicken liquor, re- 
duce, then thicken with fresh grated bread- 
crumbs, remove from fire and add strips of 
truffle peelings, chopped parsley, salt and pap- 
rika, fill the mushrooms, smooth, brush with 
beaten eggs, press on some breadcrumbs, 
arrange in a shallow sautoir, saute on both 
sides, when nicely browned, take up and serve 
on toast with Creole sauce separate. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS Canned mushrooms 
drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
fried light brown with butter, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, when brown add a little flour, 
shake, moisten with the liquor, juice of lemons, 
Espagnole sauce and sherry wine, simmer and 
skim; when bright, use as a garnish to larded 
fillet of beef, etc. 

FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS Canned but- 
ton mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the 
mushrooms fried a light brown with butter and 
minced shallots; when colored, drained, and 
placed with the reduced liquor into a rich 
Poulette sauce, season with nutmeg, salt, cay- 
enne and lemon juice; served on toast, in cases, 
croustades, or as a garnish to white entries. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE Canned mushrooms 
drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
sauteed lightly with butter, then added to a 
Veloute sauce with the reduced liquor, season 
with cayenne and lemon juice for white entries, 
or use Madeira or Espagnole sauces for brown 
entrees. 

CREAMED FRESH MUSHROOMS-Fresh but- 
ton mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, 
thick pure cream fetched to the boil, mush- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



109 



rooms cooked in it till done (about 7 minutes), 
season with salt and cayenne; serve in chafing 
dish. 

MUSHROOM CATSUP Fresh mushrooms 
wiped (not washed) and placed into crocks 
in layers till full, each layer being well 
sprinkled with salt; when full, cover with a 
folded cloth and stand in a warm place for 24 
hours, then mash and strain through a very 
coarse towel or a sack; to each gallon of the 
liquor thus obtained add a quarter of a pound 
of whole peppers and simmer for half an hour, 
then add one ounce of whole cloves, one ounce 
of whole allspice, two ounces of bruised ginger 
and half an ounce of whole mace, simmer for 
another half hour, then remove from fire; when 
cold, strain through a jelly bag, bottle, cork 
and seal. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST Fresh 
mushrooms, the stalks minced and saute'ed with 
a few shallots and parsley, added then to a lit- 
tle minced chicken in sauce Supreme, the 
mushrooms stuffed with it and baked; served on 
circles of buttered toast. 

FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS Fresh mush- 
rooms peeled, broiled on outside till brown, 
simmered in thin Bechamel sauce till done; 
served with fancy croutons. 

MUSHROOM RISSOLES A quart of minced 
fresh mushrooms, two minced medium sized 
onions, pepper, salt, a pinch of ground mixed 
herbs, simmered in thick sauce till the onion is 
done, a spoonful then placed in rounds of pas- 
try, edges folded over, pinched round, sprink- 
led with breadcrumbs and fried in oil. 

MUSHROOM OMELET Use either canned or 
fresh mushrooms, saute" till tender with a few 
minced shallots, drain, add them to a Madeira 
sauce, simmer, make the omelet, enclose the 
mushrooms, pour the sauce around it and send 
to table. 

MUSCALLONGE A large fish of the pike 
species found in the great lakes; may be cooked 
and served in all the ways for pike (which see). 

MUSSELS A large almond shaped shellfish 
found along the coasts, equally as good as oys- 
ters, but on account of their cheapness not so 
much used; are eaten raw the same as oysters, 
but generally first blanched, the usual way be- 
ing to thoroughly wash the shells, then to % 
fill a saucepan with them, adding just a little 
water, put on the lid, then steam till they open 
their shells, when the fish is removed, they may 
then be used as follows: 

SCALLOPED MUSSELS Large fat mussels 
raw, simmered till plump in a little fish broth 
with bay leaf, thyme and parsley; taken up, 
drained, added to a thick Bechamel sauce, filled 
into scallop shells, smoothed over, sprinkled 
with breadcrumbs and grated cheese, browned 
off and served. 



BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS Blanched mus- 
sels threaded on skewers, dipped in melted 
butter and breadcrumbs twice, then broiled, or 
may be dipped in butter and fried in deep fat. 

FRIED MUSSELS Raw mussels drained, rolled 
in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden 
brown in a little very hot fat in a frying pan. 

FRICASSEE OF MUSSELS Blanched mussels 
in Hollandaise sauce; served on toast sprinkled 
with parsley dust. 

STEAMED MUSSELS, LEMON BUTTER 
SAUCE Blanched mussels simmered in mai- 
tre d'hotel butter; served on strips of hot toast, 
sauce poured over them. 

STEWED MUSSELS Blanched mussels, boil- 
ing milk %, mussel liquor strained */$, butter, 
salt, red pepper; same as oyster stew. 

STEWED MUSSELS Blanched mussels, thin 
white sauce made of % milk and l /$ strained 
mussel liquor, mussels added with chopped 
parsley, salt and red pepper; served with oyster 
crackers or thin brown bread. 

MUSSELS BREADED, VILLEROI SAUCE 
Blanched mussels dipped into cooling Villeroi 
sauce; when set, dipped into sifted bread- 
crumbs, then egg and breadcrumbs, fried in 
dripping a golden color; served garnished with 
tufts of fried parsley, and lemon. 

MUSSELS SAUTES WITH FINE HERBS 
Blanched mussels saute'ed with butter, minced 
chives, parsley, garlic and sifted breadcrumbs, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; served in cases. 

MUSSEL SAUCE Blanched mussels in sauce 
Normande. 

CREAMED MUSSELS Raw mussels dropped 
into hot butter and saute'ed till plump, Becha- 
mel sauce then added, simmered; served on 
toast with sauce poured over. 

MUSSELS, ITALIAN STYLE Raw mussels 
saute'ed in butter with minced onions; when 
onions are slightly brown, the oysters taken up 
into a sautoir, tomatoes added and reduced till 
thick, then added to the mussels with white 
sauce and chopped parsley; seasoned with salt, 
pepper, butter and a dash of anchovy essence; 
served in scallop dishes garnished with sippets 
of toast. 

MUSSELS, FISHERMEN STYLE Raw mus- 
sels dried between cloths, butter fried to a nut 
brown, mussels then added and fried till plump, 
taken up; light brown sauce then made with the 
butter, flour, salt, pepper and fish broth, mus- 
sels arranged on toast, sauce poured over and 
served . 

PAN ROAST OF MUSSELS Raw mussels 
dropped into frothing butter and fried till 
plump, seasoned with salt and cayenne; served 
on strips of toast with enough of the liquor to 
moisten it, sprinkled with parsley dust and 
garnished with cress and lemon. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



MUSTARD A yellow flour produced by finely 
grinding the seeds of the mustard plant; prepared 
for table as a condiment by simply mixing to a 
thick cream with cold water and a taste of salt. 
The French prepare mustard for table use by 
boiling together equal quantities of tarragon 
and cider vinegars, pouring it to the mustard 
flour and when thickened, simmered a few min- 
utes, meanwhile adding a flavoring composed 
of white wine which has had soaked in it in a 
warm place for an hour or so some celery 
seeds, whole spices and a clove of crushed 
garlic, salt and a taste of sugar. 

MUSTARD AND CRESS These are the first 
sproutings of the cress seed and the mustard 
seed, used in equal proportions mixed, after 
being thoroughly washed and drained. To 
form sandwiches between brown bread and 
butter simply sprinkled with salt, or used as a 
breakfast salad by lightly tossing with a sprink- 
ling of salt, olive oil and lemon juice. 

MUTTON What a tremendous difference there 
is in mutton, brought about by its different 
pastures and breeds. The steward should al- 
ways buy WETHER mutton, leaving the 
EWES entirely alone, unless they are MAID- 
ENS. The best cutting sheep are from sixty 
to seventy pounds in weight. The skin should 
be dry. Leave the oily skinned ones alone as 
they will eat TOUGH. See that they are mod- 
erately lean by noting the shoulder meat show- 
ing through the skin, and also that the meat of 
the leg outwards can be seen through the skin 
extending well down towards the loin. Cheaper 
to buy the whole sheep and use all its parts 
(except the head) then to keep on buying racks, 
racks, racks. The butcher is going to cut those 
racks LONG, and you have to cut off two or 
three inches, before you can send them to the 
broiler, and the chops then come very expen- 
sive. The loin chops which are infinitely the 
best should be used with the neck chop, one of 
each, thus making the pair of chops usually 
called for, the trimmed bone of the neck one 
carrying the frill and a croquette tip stuck into 
the loin one. In cutting up the sheep, split it 
straight through the spinal column, then sep- 
arate the quarters, cut off the legs close to the 
pin bone. The loin will yield three half pound 
trimmed chump chops, and ten six ounce 
trimmed loin chops. With the forequaiter, 
lift off the shoulder, cut off the breast, then cut 
off the scrag with the first two bones of the 
rack adhering; you now have eleven neck chops 
to each quarter, or forty-eight chops to the 
sheep, two legs and two shoulders for joints, 
the breasts and scrags for the multitude of en- 
trees and the helps hall. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON Cut off the 
shank bone, put to boil in cold water with salt 
whole carrots and white turnips; when done, 



take up, cut the vegetables into finger sizes; 
make a white sauce from the stock, adding 
capers and caper vinegar; serve in portions 
with the sauce at ends of dish, using the vege- 
tables as a garnish. 

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON Cut off the shank 
bone, rub with salt and pepper, dredge with 
flour, roast till done with frequent basting, 
take up, pour off surplus fat from the pan, add 
a little flour to ihe remaining gravy, moisten 
with stock to make a sauce, strain, add capers 
and caper vinegar, or let it remain plain and 
serve with each portion some red currant jelly 
separate. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON Cut off the 
shank bone, put the leg into a brasiere with 
some fat bacon trimmings, onions, carrots, bay 
leaves, bunch of sweet herbs, whole peppers 
and allspice, moisten with mutton stock, place 
on the lid, then put the whole into a hot oven, 
cook till done and glazy, take up, then reduce 
the braise to half glaze, strain, skim; serve 
with the portions and red currant jelly separ- 
ate; or you may garnish it with glazed balls of 
carrot and turnip, also some glazed small 
onions. 

BRAISED STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON 
Bone the leg, and where the bone was, insert a 
filling composed of minced mushrooms, pars- 
ley, shallots, grated ham, little grated lemon 
rind, seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg, mix 
these well, then work in some forcemeat, sew 
up the openings, place the stuffed leg into a 
brasiere with carrots, turnips, celery, clove of 
crushed garlic, whole cloves and mace, moisten 
with stock, braise and glaze; when done, take 
up, and reduce the braise, strain and skim it, 
add it to a Ve'loute' sauce containing capers; 
serve with a stuffed tomato at ends of dish, with 
the sauce poured around. 

BRAISED LARDED LEG OF MUTTON- - Bone 
and stuff the leg of mutton as in the preceding 
recipe, then lard the outside with seasoned 
strips of bacon, place in brasiere with carrot, 
turnip, onion, celery, bunch of sweet herbs, 
cloves and mace, moisten with stock, braise 
and glaze, take up when done, reduce the re- 
maining braise, strain and skim it; serve with 
onion pure'e at one end of the dish, potato cro- 
quette at the other, and send the sauce to 
table separate. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON, WITH BEANS 
Cut off the shank, insert six cloves of garlic 
into the leg at different places, braise with vege- 
tables and spices, take up when done, then re- 
duce, strain and skim the braise. Meanwhile 
boil some navy beans; when done, drain, and 
mix them into a sauce of brown onion pure'e; 
serve the portions of mutton on top of a spoon- 
ful of the sauced beans, pour a little of the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. m 

braise around and garnish with a few Parisi- GLAZED BREAST OF MUTTON Lean 

enne potatoes. breasts of mutton boiled till tender in seasoned 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON WITH VEGE- br tb ' taken . U P and boned ' ! ben P ress f tiU 
TABLES-Bone the leg, season it inside with Cold ' Cut ! n ^ ces ' seasoned with salt and pep- 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and thyme, sew up, braise P er ' saut<5 m butter then place in hot demi- 
with vegetables and spices, take up when done, glaze; Serve g arnished Wlth sma11 lazed OQ1ODS - 
reduce, strain and skim the braise; serve garn- FRIED BREAST OF MUTTON-Breasts of 
ished with glazed young carrots, - small whole mutton boiled tender in seasoned stock, taken 
new turnips, flowerets of caulifflower, green U P- boned - Passed, cut in shapes, dipped in 
peas, points of asparagus, small new potatoes, beaten e gg- rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, ar- 
quartered artichoke bottoms, a macedoine or ran g ed in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with 
jardiniere, stringless French beans (haricots melted butter - browned and frothed in a sharp 
verts), flageolet beans, new lima beans, stuffed oven; served surrounded with tomato sauce, 
cucumber, baked tomatoes, etc.. etc. If when BROILED BREASTS OF MUTTON Lean 
using any of the moistened garnishes by them- breasts of mutton steamed long enough to draw 
selves, place it on the bill of fare as Braised the bones, taken up, skin scored, a seasoning of 
leg of mutton with such and such garnish. powdered thyme, salt and pepper then rubbed 

ROLLED SHOULDER OF MUTTON OYS- in - di PP ed in beaten egg, then in fresh bread 

TER SAUCE-Bone the shoulder; where the crumbs; placed two whole breasts at a time in 

bone was. spread with oyster croquette mix- wire hinged broiler, broiled, basted with butter; 

ture,- roll up tight, tie closely with string, when mcelv browned, served in two-inch wide 

place it in a steamer and steam till done; serve stri P s with piquante sauce under the meat, 

in portions with white oyster sauce; or if after it Tbis dish is wel1 appreciated at breakfast or 

has been steamed two-thirds done, take it up and luncheon. 

finish cooking in a sharp oven, take out when HARICOT OF MUTTON Lean breasts of mut- 

of a deep fawn color and serve it with brown ton in strips seasoned with salt and pepper, 

oyster sauce. fried quickly a light brown, taken up into a 

BOILED MUTTON WITH TURNIPS-Use sau ' oir ' s P rinkled wel1 with flour - f aken to ' 

either the leg or the shoulder, boil it medium gether moistened with seasoned broth, brought 

done in salted water with a few root vegetables; to the bci1 and skimmed; column cut slices of 

serve portions on a bed of mashed turnips, with r Ot ***U<* *& in butter with a htt e 

caper sauce around the base. su S ar ' drained - added to the meat - the whole 

then simmered till half an hour before done, 

STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON, SAUCE small balls of raw potatoes then added with 

ROBERT Lean breast of mutton, pocket small saute'ed onions, finish cooking, season with 

made the entire length between the meat and salt and p aprika; serve d with the vegetables as 

rib bones, filled with a stuffing made of sausage a arn i s h 

meat mixed with minced onions, parsley, mush- CURRY OF MUTTON WITH RICE - Lean 

rooms and a few fresh breadcrumbs, sew up the breastj . Q mmton J Q stf . seasoned with salti 

opening, steam till done; serve m portions with fubbed w - th curry powd ^ gaut(ed whh buttef 

a light brown color; taken up into a sautoir, 

BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS- spri nkled and well shook with flour and little 

Lean breasts of mutton boiled tender in sea- more curry powder> moistened with seasoned 

soned broth; when done, bones removed, white broth> brought to the boil, skimmed, 

pressed till cold and firm, then cut in strips, ring3 of saute - ed onions then added, simmered 

breaded, fried; served on a bed of mashed tur- and skimmed till done ; serve within a border of 

nips with gravy round the base. dry boiled rice 

ROLLED STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON IRISH STEW Lean breasts of mutton cut in 

Broad cut lean breasts of mutton, boned, strips, blanched, rinsed, put back into a clean 

spread with veal or chicken forcemeat, rolled, sautoir with balls or column cut slices of root 

tied with twine, baked slowly in roast mutton vegetables, moisten with white stock, simmer 

gravy; served garnished with a jardiniere of an d skim; when nearly done, balls of raw pota- 

vegetables. toes ad ded; finish cooking, thicken with flour 

BRAISED BREAST OF MUTTON, ITALIAN and butter, season with salt and pepper; serve 

SAUCE Breasts of mutton simmered in sea- sprinkled with chopped parsley, 

soned broth till the bones are easily removed, RAGOUT OF MUTTON WITH TOMATOES 

then press till cold, cut in triangular pieces, Lean breasts of mutton in strips, fried a light 

braise them in the reduced stock they were brown with butter and shallots, taken up into a 

simmered in, then take up and strain the braise sautoir, sprinkled and shook well with flour, 

into a brown Italian sauce, which serve with moistened with mutton gravy, simmered and 

the portions. skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper and pap- 



112 

rika; served garnished with a stuffed tomato at 
one end, and balls of glazed turnips at the 
other. 

RISSOLES OF MUTTON, SAUCE HOLLAN- 
DAISE Cold pieces of stewed mutton free of 
bones, minced finely, seasoned with salt 
chopped parsley, paprika, thyme and mace, 
mixed into one- third of its bulk of fresh mashed 
potatoes; when thoroughly mixed, allow to be- 
come quite cold, then form into finger lengths 
like sausages, double bread, fry; serve with 
Hollandaise sauce. 

CASSEROLES OF MUTTON Make a stiff po- 
tato croquette mixture, shape pieces of it like a 
patty, double bread and fry; now cut a lid 
scoop out the inside, thus leaving a case, fill the 
interior with mutton mince of the preceding 
recipe (heated), put on the lid, keep them hot; 
with the potatoes you scooped out, form into 
Duchesse potatoes and use as a garnish. 

HASHED MUTTON WITH PEPPERS Cold 
breasts of mutton from any of the forgoing 
recipes, cut small in dice shape, saute'ed with 
minced onion, moistened with some Espagnole 
sauce. Green peppers, tops cut off, insides 
scooped out, double blanched, drained, filled 
with the mince, graduated, slowly baked and 
basted till of a nice brown color; served with a 
rich tomato sauce poured around. 

BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH BEANS 
PUREE Best neck chops seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then bread- 
crumbs, fried medium done with butter; navy 
beans boiled, drained, rubbed through a tamis, 
little Bechamel sauce added, used as a bed on 
which to lay the chops; served with a demi-glaze 
around the base. 

MUTTON CHOPS SAUTES, SAUCE SOU- 
BISE Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned 
with salt and paprika, sauteed with butter and 
minced shallot; served on a bed of onion puree 
mixed with Ve'loute' sauce, garnished with fancy 
crofltons. 

MUTTON CHOP WITH POTATO BORDER 
Best neck chops trimmed, fried a golden brown 
in butter, fresh mashed potatoes mixed with a 
little chopped parsley forced through a bag and 
tube around the dish, chop in centre with 
maitre d'hotel butter spread on it. 

BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH MUSH 
ROOM PUREE Best neck chops trimmed, 
seasoned with salt and paprika, breaded, fried 
with butter; mushrooms stewed in Ve'loute' 
sauce till soft, then rubbed through sieve; chop 
served resting on fancy shape of buttered toast 
with the pure'e around. 

MUTTON CHOPS. PROVENCE STYLE 
Trimmed neck chops sauteed half done with 
butter, equal parts of onion and mushroom 
purees with a Savor of garlic and a little 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



chopped parsley, brought to the boil, thickened 
with egg yolks, stirred till of a thick paste; 
this spread on one side of the chop, arranged 
in a buttered baking pan, sprinkled with Par- 
mesan cheese, finished in a quick oven; served 
with a brown sauce poured around. 

MUTTON CHOP WITH GLAZED NEW CAR- 
ROTS Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned 
and broiled medium done; new carrots trimmed, 
blanched, then sauteed till tender with butter 
and a little sugar, taken up, drained, then 
tossed in maitre d'hotel sauce; served as a 
garnish to the chop. (Plain broiled chop as in 
the recipe here given may be served with a 
garnish of either Bretonne pure'e, stuffed egg 
plant, stewed okras, haricots verts, macedoine 
or jardiniere of vegetables, flageolets, green 
peas, vegetable pure'e, fried parsley, spinach 
pure'e, mashed potatoes, saute'ed balls of turnip, 
and simply named on the bill of fare as Mutton 
chop with such or such garnish, as prepared). 

MUTTON CHOP WITH TRUFFLES Loin 
chops trimmed, seasoned, broiled; served with 
a Madeira sauce containing plenty of sliced 
truffles. 

COATED CUTLETS OF MUTTON Trimmed 
loin chops, quickly saute'ed with butter half 
done, dipped into a thick sauce containing 
minced ham and mushrooms, they are then 
breaded and slowly fried till done; served rest- 
ing on a fancy crouton, or they may be coated 
with an onion pure'e and served with a Soubise 
sauce. 

MUTTON CHOP, SOUTHERN STYLE- Loin 
chops trimmed, seasoned, saute'ed till done with 
butter and minced shallot; served on a fancy 
croihon garnished with a mold of dry boiled 
rice, a stuffed baked tomato and some stewed 
okras. 

MUTTON CHOP WITH PEAS PUREE Loin 
chops trimmed and partly saute'ed, then dipped 
into a thick yellow parsley sauce, breaded, fried; 
served on a bed of peas pure'e and surrounded 
with Ve'loute' sauce. 

BAKED MUTTON CUTLETS WITH APPLES 
Take the chops of the the neck under the 
shoulder, place them in a buttered pan with 
some sliced apples and onions, season with salt 
and pepper, just cover with a nice clear gravy, 
place another pan over as a lid, bake about 45 
minutes, remove when glazy; serve the chop in 
centre of dish with apples at one and onions at 
other side, garnishing the ends of dish with 
fancy croutons. 

MUTTON CHOPS FRIED, ITALIAN SAUCE 
Best neck chops trimmed, spread with a sauce 
containing minced onions, little garlic, Parme- 
san cheese and hard boiled egg yolks rubbed 
through a sieve; when set, double breaded, 
fried and served with a brown Italian sauce. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



"3 



BREADED MUTTON CHOP, SAUCE PERI- a delicate brown; served with tomato sauce 
GUEUX Best neck chops trimmed, spread poured around, 
with a thick truffle sauce; when set, double CROUSTADES OF MUTTON WITH POACH- 



breaded, fried; served with Perigue'ux sauce. 

MUTTON CUJTLETS FRIED, REFORME 
GARNISH Loin chops trimmed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten eggs, 
then in grated ham, again in eggs, then in a 
mixture of grated ham and fresh breadcrumbs, 
arranged in buttered baking pan, placed in a 
medium oven, browned and basted with butter; 
served with a garnish of shredded ham, slices 
of carrots and truffles, also rings of whites of 
hard boiled eggs in a sauce Supreme. 

MUTTON STEW WITH VEGETABL ES 
Scrags and lean breasts of mutton cut in neat 
pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, saut<5ed 
a golden color in butter with a few small onions, 
flour then added to form a roux, moisten with 
boiling stock, then boil up and skim, season to 
taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a clove of 
garlic; when half done, cubes of carrot and 
turnip then added, also some lima beans, sim- 
mer till done; serve. (Varieties of stew as 
above may be made by garnishing with rice 



ED EGG Cold roast mutton cut in small dice, 
then placed in a sautoir and moistened with a 
light consomme* and a pint of demi-glaze to 
each four Ibs. of meat. Reduce it to about half 
over a medium fire; half a dozen each of green 
peppers and shallots minced and lightly fried 
with butter then added to the hash, mix; fill in- 
to fancy croustades to order, placing on top of 
each a freshly cooked and trimmed poached 
egg, garnish with watercress. 
MUTTON CHOPS WITH BUTTERED CORN 
Take a rack of mutton, remove the meat 
from the bone in one piece, trim, cut it up into 
four ounce cutlets, season with salt and pepper, 
broil between a wire hinged broiler a golden 
brown; meanwhile cut corn from hot cooked 
cobs, season with salt and cream, fill into oval 
dishes, cover the top with breadcrumbs and 
sprinkle with melted butter, bake brown 
quickly; when done, place a chop on the corn, a 
few Julienne potatoes around the edge, and 
send to table. 



timbales and small stuffed tomatoes instead of MUTTON CUTLET SAUTE WITH FINE 
the vegetables; also instead of the vegetables, HERBS Trimmed chump chops fried with 
use stewed tomatoes and an extra clove of gar- butter, fried minced shallots, parsley and 
lie; or using a plain garnish of either green mushrooms, sprinkled over when sending to 
peas, flageolets, stringless beans, butter beans, table. 

haricot beans, glazed new carrots, braised MUTTON PIE, ENGLISH STYLE Middle 

neck chops trimmed and shortened, arranged 
in a deep pie dish around the sides, the centre 
filled with balls of potatoes or small new ones; 
make a rich white sauce from strong mutton 
stock, season with pepper and salt, chopped 



stalks of celery, fried egg plant, rice and okras; 
small white turnips hollowed out, steamed, 
then filled with a macedoine, jardiniere; green 
peas, flageolets, etc., potato croquettes, slices 
of stuffed cucumber, stuffed artichoke bottoms, 
etc., and named accordingly). REMEMBER 
ALWAYS THAT IT IS THE STEWS 
WHICH KEEP DOWN THE KITCHEN 



parsley and capers, cover the mutton and pota- 
toes with it plentifully, place on a short crust, 
egg wash, bake one hour in a medium oven. 



EXPENSES, AND ARE ALWAYS IN BRAISED BONED LOIN OF MUTTON Take 



STRONG DEMAND BY THE PATRONS, 
IF WELL COOKED, SEASONED, AND 
VERY NEATLY GARNISHED; IT THEN 
APPEALS TO THE EYE AND ITS SAVORI- 
NESS TO THE PALATE. DO NOT LET 
YOUR VEGETABLE OR FRY COOK JUST 
DISH IT OUT ON TO THE PLATTER 
WITH A LADLE SIMPLY BECAUSE IT IS 
A STEW; PLACE THE MEAT NEATLY 
ON A DISH, THEN GARNISH IT WITH 
CARE. 

HASHED MUTTON IN PEPPERS Four ibs. 
of cold cooked mutton cut in small dice, four 
medium sized onions minced and lightly fried 
with butter, then added to the mutton, mix, 



a loin of mutton and remove the chine bone, 
(this can be done without injuring the meat by 
loosening the tenderloin first); where the bone 
was, fill with a stiff forcemeat, roll over the 
flap and tie with twine; arrange in a brasiere 
with vegetables and spices, moisten with stock 
enough to just cover the mutton, braise and 
baste till done and glazy; serve in portions with 
a garnish either of green peas, macedoine, jard- 
inere, asparagus tips, new carrots, stringless 
beans, small glazed turnips, stuffed and glazed 
cucumbers, flowerets of cauliflower, etc It 
should be noted that glaze should be over and 
around slightly the meat portion, and the veg- 
etable garnish should be moistened with either 
a Veloute, Bechamel or Allemande sauce. 



then moisten with a little Espagnole sauce, BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED 

season to taste, then bring to a simmer. Two Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone loosened 

dozen medium sized green peppers, tops cut off, and the yellow gristle that runs the full length 

seeded, double blanched, then filled with the of the chine removed, arranged in the brasiere 

hash; gratinate the tops, bake in a slow oven to with carrot, onion, celery, parsley, whole cloves 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



and mace, moistened with stock just enough to 
cover, braised and basted till done and glazy, 
taken up, the braise strained and skimmed; 
served in chops, each chop rolled in the glaze; 
served garnished with small stuffed tomatoes, 
Brussels sprouts, glazed small onions, flageo- 
lets, green peas, asparagus tips, sauerkraut, 
new carrots or turnips, potato quenelles and 
stewed prunes (German style), potato cro- 
quettes, Sofibise puree", jardiniere or a mace- 
doine of vegetables. 

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED 
Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone and 
gristle removed, cut into cutlets, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, dipped into melted butter, 
broiled medium done of a golden color; served 
on a triangle of toast, garnished with either 
brown Italian, tomato, Provenpale, Poivrade, 
piquante. shallot or fines-herbes sauces, or with 
mashed potatoes in shapes, mashed turnips, 
spinach puree", endive puree", Soflbise puree", 
Bretonne beans puree", jardiniere, macedoine, 
asparagus tips, Brussels sprouts sautee"s. green 
peas, Julienne vegetables in Allemande sauce, 
small new potatoes boiled, then moistened with 
maitre d'hotel butter, pure6 of artichoke, chip- 
olata garnish, French beans (haricots verts), 
new lima beans, button mushrooms sautees, 
stuffed olives. 

NASTURTIUM Name of a plant whose seeds 
are extensively used as a substitute for pickled 
capers. 

NAVARIN A French word given to a brown 
mutton stew with vegetables, the same as our 
"haricot of mutton." 

NESSELRODE Name given to an iced pud- 
ding, named after a Russian statesman, com- 
posed of a puree" of chestnuts, whipped cream, 
glazed fruits, a flavoring of maraschino, mixed 
and frozen. 

NEUFCHATEL Name of a cream curd cheese 
imported from Switzerland. But most of that 
used in hotel life is made in our own dairies 
and equally as good as the imported. 

NIVERNAISE Name given to a garnish of 
Julienne vegetables mixed in Allemande sauce. 

NOISETTE French name for nut. Sometimes 
seen on "bills of fare" as "Noisettes of mut- 
ton", "Noisettes d'agneau (nuts of lamb)", 
"Noisettes de veau (nuts of veal)". To prepare 
thisldish I will quote LEON CIEUX, a Parisian 
chef: 

"NOISETTES OF LAMB, A LA MAIN- 
TENON Take the two fillets and small fil- 
lets (filets mignons) from a saddle of lamb, take 
out the nerves, trim them, and divide each fillet 
into six parts and the small fillets into three 
parts, beat them, season with salt and pepper, 
saute" them quickly on both sides with clear 
batter; as soon as sauteed, put in a good Peri- 



gorde sauce, this stops the wasting and pre- 
vents the meat from giving up its gravy. Place 
each noisette of lamb on a crust of breadcrumb 
passed through butter and the shape of the 
noisette; arrange in a crown on the dish, cover 
each noisette with a Soflbise a la Bechamel. 
Powder with grated Parmesan cheese, moist- 
ened with melted butter, glazed in a hot oven; 
pour in the middle of the dish some Perigord 
sauce, put on each noisettte a fine slice of truffle 
and serve hot, the cooking must be quick. This 
recipe is for twelve persons." 

I will here quote the author of the EPICUR- 
EAN, Charles Ranhofer. 

"NOISETTES OF MUTTON, AU MADERE 
Cut eight chops of four ounces each from 
two racks of mutton. Remove the noix (centre 
of chop), beat them lightly, trim all to the same 
size, season with salt and pepper. Heat four 
ounces of butter in a frying pan, when it is very 
hot add to it the noix, saute them over a quick 
fire, taking care to turn them when they have 
a good color, let them cook several minutes 
more, arrange them on crofi tons of bread fried in 
butter and of the same size as the noix. Dry 
out the butter from the pan, add half a gill of 
Madeira, cook it down, add a little brown sauce, 
cook it down again until it is a light sauce, 
pass through the strainer and pour on the 
noix." 

NOODLES A stiff paste made with sifted flour 
and yolks of eggs, then rolled out very thin in 
sheets, place several sheets one on another, 
then with a sharp knife cut in strips; for soups 
or to be used for all purposes in place of mac- 
aroni; for all the recipes given for macaroni, 
noodles may be substituted; from the sheets 
may be stamped out fancy shapes for decorating 
raised pies, etc. 

NOYEAU Name of a very fine liqueur prepared 
from the kernels of fruit stones, almonds, 
brandy, gin, flavoring extracts and syrup. 

NUTMEG The kernel of the fruit of the nnt- 
meg tree. The fruit itself is in size and shape 
that of a small pear, which on ripening, bursts, 
exposing its kernel covered with a netting; this 
netting is known as mace, the kernel itself as 
nutmeg; it is used as a flavoring to soups, 
sauces, puddings, custards, etc. The nutmegs 
from PENANG are considered of most com- 
mercial value. 

OATMEAL As the word implies it is the meal 
of oats; the oat grains are skinned, dried, then 
ground in a mill and placed into commerce as 
coarse and fine oatmeal. This is then used to 
make in conjunction with wheat flour, cakes, 
biscuits, bread, gruel, drinks, mush, puddings, 
thickening soups, etc., etc. A mistake is there- 
fore made when writing "bills of fare" to say 
"oatmeal porridge" unless you use the meal; 
and seldom is the meal used. It is customary 
nowadays to use rolled oats, flaked oats, and 
the different names given by manufacturers, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 115 

such as H. O., Quaker oats, etc., which are all medium oven and cooked till tender. It is 

rolled and not meal. Groats is the proper name served as a family dish by placing the vegetables 

for the dried oat grains which are neither at the bottom of a platter as a garnish to the 

crushed or ground. three meats, the sausages on top of the vege. 

OKRA-Name of an American vegetable chiefly tables - and the broth P oured over the whole - 

grown in the South; of a seed pod shape like OMELET Slightly beaten eggs seasoned with 

the long pepper. It is preserved and canned, salt and a little melted butter so as to prevent 

this being generally used in making gumbo '* from sticking to the pan in cooking; see that 

soups when the fresh is not obtainable. The the P an is free from anv Stick 7 substance on the 

fresh is trimmed at both ends, boiled in salted mside - bottom and flange; place in a little melted 

boiling water till tender, taken up and drained, butter - let i4 8 et hot ( not burnt), pour in a ladle 

seasoned with salt, pepper and melted butter and of e gg s - shuffle a und till nearly set, then take 

served as a vegetable, or used as a garnish, or in the handle in the left hand, depress the pan, 

conjunction with other vegetables as a garnish. then with the right hand knock the handle near 

The Creoles like it slippery, and after trimming the pan.and the omelet will roll up from the furth- 

it they place it in a sautoir with just enough est end - thus forming a roll with pointed ends, 

water to moisten, cover with oiled paper, place hold to the fire for a moment and the centre 

on the lid and stew it till tendered muscilag- wil1 P uff U P- tnm on to a P la er, garnish one 

inous, then it is further seasoned with olive oil, end with a s P"g of cris P cress or parsley and 

salt, pepper and a little minced green or red send the P lain omelet to the table at once, 

peppers Okras are esteemed slewed with I HAVE SAID POUR A LADLE OF EGGS, 

tomatoes, keeping the okras whole; also by tak- BECAUSE I HAVE FOUND THAT THE 

ing peeled raw tomatoes and okras, cutting ORDERS ARE SERVED MORE EQUAL 

them both into quarters, then stewing with BY ITS USE - HAVE A LADLE MADE 

butter, pepper and salt; also the whole okras THAT WILL HOLD EQUAL TO THREE 

trimmed, then stewed tender in a rich tomato LIGHTLY BEATEN EGGS. ONE LADLE- 

sauce; also tipped at both ends, breaded and FUL WILL BE FOUND THE RIGHT 

fried, like egg plant. QUANTITY PER PERSON. 

OKR A SALAD-Okras trimmed and boiled in boil- OMELET WITH BACON -(Plain or with Pi- 
ing salted water, then drained and cooled; strip- J uante sauce >- Cut the bacon into small dice, 
ped endive washed and crisp arranged on dish, r j, * 1 ? wel1 done ' P f ur off the fat - P ur in . a 
the okras quartered and laid on top, the whole ladle f e ^ s ' m ' x and form; served Wlth a S P"S 
sprinkled with a French salad dressing contain- f S reen ' r Wlth P '1 uant e sauce at the ends, 
ing chopped chives. OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS-Roasted 

^ T T , rT , , kidneys cut in dice and made hot in a little 

OLIVES-The fruit of the ohve tree picked demi . glaze with chopped parslev> enclose the 

green prepared and salted, then packed into mixture whhin th<J omelet; gerve whh a 

barrels kegs, etc also put up in glass jars. Our Mad ^ [Ta sauce d around 

SS^X^^^^ OMELET WITH CEPES-Cut the cepes into 

superior to the imported European, French, d >ce fry in butter for a ew minutes, pour off 

Spanish and Italian Olive oil is prepared from the butter add a ladle of eggs, form and serve 

the ripe fruit. Olives are used as an appetizer, Wlth a httle Itahan Sauce at ttle Sldes ' 

either plain or stoned and stuffed; as a decor- OMELET WITH CHEESE Mix grated cheese 

ative to salads, as a flavoring to sauces, as an with the beaten eggs in proportion of one-third 

addition to garnitures, etc. cheese to two-thirds eggs, form the omelet; 

when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a lit- 

OLLA PODRIDA-One of the national dishes of ^ ^ cheese OQ of the F omelet and 

Spam; a rich soup stew, made in the style of a brown off ickl in Qven or under a salaman . 

pepper-pot. A large earthernware pot into der 

ctc^kXtcSrt' ^etaS 2SJS OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS-BUnch 

cabbage and endive, a piece of flank of beef, a the livers - then cut in dice - fr ? them U 8 htl 7 

fowl, a piece of streaky bacon and sausages. with butter ' minced shallot s and mushrooms 

The sausages are made of equal quantities of for ten minutes, season with salt, pepper and 

minced lean and fat pork, seasoned with garlic chopped parsley, enclose a spoonful within the 

and red pepper; when mixed it is macerated in omelet while * rmin g: s ved with Hanover 

dry sherry wine for four days till it has ab- sauce at tbe Sldes " 

sorbed all it can, it is then filled into sausage OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF Scald, 

casings, tied in links, hung till dry in a cool air. drain and mince the dried beef, mix it with the 

The contents of the pot are seasoned with salt eggs, form the omelet; serve with cream sauce 

and pepper, moistened with water, placed in poured around. 



n6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



OMELET WITH HAM Cooked minced ham 
moistened with Madeira sauce enclosed within 
the omelet. 2. Raw minced ham with a little 
minced shallot and parsley fried till done, ladle 
of eggs poured in, formed and served. 3, Minced 
fried ham beaten up with the eggs, poured into 
the omelet pan, formed and served. 

OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS Cut the 
kidneys into small dice and fry them with 
minced shallots in butter for three minutes, add 
a little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, 
enclose a spoonful within the omelet while 
forming; serve with Madeira sauce poured 
around. 2. Stew the kidneys in a sherry wine 
flavored brown sauce, season well with red 
pepper or a minced red pepper; when done, 
strain the sauce on to some unsweetened apple 
sauce passed through a fine sieve; into the 
beaten eggs put some finely chopped green 
mint, enclose a spoonful of kidneys within the 
omelet while forcing; serve wither of the 



sweetbreads cut in dice, simmered in _ mush- 
room sauce, a spoonful enclosed within the 
omelet white forming; served with mushroom 
sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS-If fresh 
mushrooms, peel them, trim, cut into dice and 
fry with butter; if canned, cut them in thin 
slices and fry, drain, then mix them into 

Madeira sauce; enclose a spoonful within the 

. , - , , , . 

omelet; serve with a spoonful of mushrooms m 



shrimps, cut in halves, mix with some finely 
chopped green peppers, put them into a Vel- 
oute sauce containing some lobster butter, sim- 
mer for five minutes, enclose a spoonful within 
the omelet, turn on to the serving dish, place two 
whole shrimps on top, and pour some of the 
sauce around. 

OMELET WITH FINE HERBS Beat up with 
the eggs some finely mmced shallots, thyme 
marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley season 
with sa It and pepper form the omelet, and 
serve plain or with fine herbs sauce poured 
around 

SPANISH OMELET-Finely shred onions, 
minced green peppers minced mushrooms, 
solid tomatoes with the juice and seeds ex- 
pressed, cut in smal pieces, the whole fried 
with butter for five minutes, then add tomato 
sauce, season with salt and pepper, reduce till 
thick, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, 
tarn on to the serving dish, garnish the top 
with fancy strips of pimentoes and place a 
spoonful of the mixture at each end of the 
omelet. 



OMELET WITH SPINACH Beat some puree* 
of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and 
pepper, form and serve. 

OMELET WITH PARSLEY Mix some finely 
chopped parsley with the beaten eggs, season 
with salt and pepper, form and serve plain or 
with Veloute sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH TOMATOES Stew fresh or 
canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, 
salt and pepper till of a thick pulp, enclose a 
spoonful within the omelet; serve with tomato 
sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE Take 
some boiled rice grains and moisten them with 
a good tomato pure6i enclose some within the 
omelet; serve with tomato puree" poured around. 

QMELET WITH OYSTERS -Scald the oys- 

, . . J 

ter *' **" m ^ uarters ' P lace them , into a 
ichthick > er sauce ' elose a spoonful with- 



whole and sprinkle with 



QMELET WITR FRENCH O R SMALL 
^^^ _ ._ . 

* EE f PEAS-Simmer some peas in reduced 
Veloute sauce with a little mmced green mint, 
tiu thick> ^^ sQme whhin the ^^ ^ 

on to the serving dish, garnish each end with 
more o f t h e peas and t h e sides with cream 
sauce. 

,,,,,.,,,,, TTTTTII Tr/-r- T>T A-MT /- * *u 
OMELET WITH EGG PLANT-Lut the egg 
plant into dice, fry it with butter, when done, 
enclose wit 



macedome of vegetables (or 
^canned ones) boil till tender, drain, moisten 
Wlth a llttle dean-glaze or sauce Supreme, en- 
close within the omelet turn on to the serving 
d ' sh - Decorate the top of omelet with more of 
the vegetables and pour some of the sauce 
around 



mande endosewithin the omele ^ 

OQ serv - d - sh decorate 

and se K rve Allemande P sauce at the 



within the omeleti turned on to servi dish 
Q{ omelet decorated with ali of B stuffed 
* 

OMELET WITH ONIONS- Fry some thin 
shces of onions with a clove of garlic in butter, 
enclose within the omelet; serve with Souubise 
sauce at the sides - 

OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN Take 
minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Vel- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. "7 

oute sauce, make hot, enclose within the ome- within the omelet; served with some Hollan- 

let; serve with Veloute sauce at the sides. daise sauce at the sides. 

CREOLE OMELET-Chopped green peppers, OMELET WITH TURKEY LIVERS-Braised 

onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rice, turke r livers cut in scall P s and nio.stened 

made hot in a thick tomato sauce, enclosed with fine herbs sauce - enclosed within the 

within the omelet; served with a spoonful of omelet : served Wlth more o the sauce at the 

the mixture at the sides. Q ^ ANCH OVIES-Filleted an- 

ALGERIENNE OMELET-Rissoto moistened chovies cut in shredSi moiste oed with Aurora 

and reheated with tomato puiee. enclosed with- Of Genevoise sauceSi enclosed within the ome- 

in the omelet; served with tomato puree" at the , et; seryed whh tfae sauce used at tfae sides> the 

top of the omelet to be garnished with strips of 

OMELET WITH TRUFFLES Slices of truf. the anchovies in lattice work form, 

fles moistened with truffle sauce, enclosed with- OMELET WITH FOIE-GRAS Foie-gras cot 

in the omelet; served with truffle sauce at the in dice with a little chopped truffle peelings, 

sides. moistened with Madeira sauce, enclosed with- 

OMELET WITH PUREE OF GAME A rich in the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the 

game pure is enclosed within the omelet; sides, the top of the omelet to be decorated 

served with game sauce at the sides. with a slice each of foie-gras and truffle. 

IKDIAN OMELET Minced onion lightly fried OMELET CHIPOLATA A spoonful of chipo- 

then mixed with the beaten eggs, adding a lata garnish (see garnishes), enclosed within 

seasoning of curry powder and a spoonful of the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the 

thick cream, boiled rice enclosed within the sides, the ends of the omelet to be garnished 

omelet; served with curry sauce at the sides. with Parisienne potatoes. 

OMELET WITH CHICKEN PUREE A rich OMELET WITH JELLY With the omelet 

puree" of chicken enclosed within the omelet; mixture add a spoonful of cream and a very 

served with Veloutfe sauce at the sides. little sugar; before starting to roll the omelet, 

MILANAISE OMELET Boiled macaroni s P read with J 611 ?- then ro11 h U P ; when turned 

chopped fine, mixed with Parmesan cheese and on the servin g dish - dust with Powdered sugar, 

a spoonful of tomato puree", enclosed within the mark the to P in latfcice work st y le with a red hot 

omelet; served with Milanaise sauce at the wire - P lace a little more J 611 ? at the sides and 

sides. serve - 

OMELET WITH SHRIMP PASTE-Omelet OMELET WITH MERINGUE-Little cream 

spread with shrimp paste just before forming; and su g ar mixed with the beaten *%%* before 

served with shrimp sauce at the sides. rolling, spread with jam. then form; when on the 

SHRIMP OMELET-Chopped shrimps in Au- serving dish, spread with meringue, decorate 

rora sauce enclosed within the omelet, turned the meri g ue W1 ' h P' nt f kn ' fe - P lace 1Q oven 

on to the serving dish, the top decorated with tlU f a dehcate fawQ C lor and Serve at nCe ' 

coiled shrimps; served with Aurora sauce at the OMELET WITH CUSTARD CREAM Little 

sides. cream and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs, a 

OMELET WITH SCALLOPS-Scallops blanched spoonful of rich custard cream enclosed within 

then fried with butter, cut in dice, moistened the omelet - turned on to the serving dish; served 

with Bechamel sauce, enclosed within the ome- with a little a P ricot P ure< at the sides - 

let; served with the top decorated with a whole OMELET WITH MARMALADE Little cream 

iried scallop, Bechamel sauce at the sides. and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs; before 

OMELET FINANCIERS A spoonful of finan- rolling, spread with fruit marmalade, form, 

ciere garnish enclosed within the omelet; served P^ce on serving dish, dust with powdered 

vith-some more of the garnish at the sides. sugar, then place in hot oven to glaze, or glaze 

OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD Useful to with a salamander. 

use up the remains of entree "Calf's head, tur- OMELET WITH RUM Little cream and sugar 

tie style". Cut the meat small, enclose within the mixed with the beaten eggs, omelet formed, 

omelet; served with more of the garnish at the turned on to the serving dish, dusted with 

sides. powdered sugar, marked with a red hot wire, 

OMELET WITH CAPON Cold capon cut in rum made warm and poured around the omelet; 

dice and moistened with Veloutfe sauce, enclosed then set on fire - either at the entrance to the 

within the omelet; served with Supreme sauce dining room or on the table at the request of 

at the sides. the guest. 

OMELET WTTH CALF'S BRAINS Scalded OMELET SOUFFLE One teaspoonful of sugar 

and trimmed calf's brains cut in dice and to each egg, yolks and whites whipped separ- 

moistened with Hollandaise sauce, enclosed ately, the sugar and a teaspoonful of cream 



u8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

with the yolks, then all stirred together, poured GLAZED ONIONS Peeled onions of a uniform 

into oval dish or pan, baked partly on top of size arranged in a shallow sautoir, seasoned 

the range, then finished in oven; when nicely with salt, pepper and sugar, slightly moistened 

puffed, dust with powdered sugar, and glaze with stock, covered with a sheet of buttered 

with a salamander; the omelet mixture may be paper, simmered till done and brown, and the 

flavored with most any liqueur or cordial. liquor to a glaze. 

ONIONS FRIED Large sized onions peeled, ONION PUREE Onions peeled, blanched, 

cut in fairly thick slices, the rings then separ- drained, chopped, placed in a sautoir with but- 

ated, seasoned with salt, dipped in milk, then ter and lightly fried without color, flour then 

shaken up with flour till coated, fried till done added to form a roux, moisten with white or 

in very hot deep fat like French fried potatoes; brown stock according to whether it is to be 

when done, drained, sprinkled with salt; served served with boiled or roast meat, simmer till 

plain or as a garnish. very tender, season with salt and a little sugar, 

ONIONS FRIED Thinly sliced onions fried then rub the whole through a tamis. 

with butter, bacon fat, beef dripping, etc., till PICKLED ONIONS Small button onions peeled, 

well done and brown, surplus fat then poured placed in crocks, boiling brine poured over 

off; used as a garnish to steaks. them, allowed to stand for 24 hours, brine then 

ONIONS IN CREAM SAUCE Small onions drained off, onions then covered with scalding 

peeled, boiled in salted water till tender, taken ho * ( n t boiling) cider vinegar spiced to taste 

up and drained, then put into cream sauce; used with mace - chilies, whole peppers and a little 

as a vegetable. horseradish. 

BOILED ONIONS Medium sized onions peeled, ONION VINEGAR Two quarts of white wine 

boiled well done in salted water, taken up and vinegar, one dessert spoonful of salt, two dessert 

well drained, kept very hot; served with a spoon- spoonfuls of granulated sugar, two pounds of 

ful of melted butter poured over them; used as peeled Spanish onions; grate the onions, mix 

vegetable. them with the sugar and salt, allow to macerate 

CREAMED ONIONS Small button onions for three hours, then pour over the vinegar; fill 

peeled, steamed till tender, drained, then put f fuit Jars % full, screw the lid on, shake well 

into a Poulette sauce; served as a garnish or every day for a couple of weeks, then strain 

vegetable. ff through cheese cloth, fill into bottles and 

BAKED ONIONS STUFFED Large onions cork Ii 8 ht : tnis is very useful when a delicate 

peeled, steamed till nearly done, centres re- ion flavor is desired with mayonnaise, salads, 

moved in ONE PIECE which can be used etc - 

the following day for the recipe preceding, the ONION SALAD Take either the Bermuda or 

aperture filled with sausage meat, baked and Spanish onion, peel, slice in rings % of an 

basted till brown and glazy; served with a inch thick - steam tiu half cooked, let become 

little meat gravy poured around. verv cold : serve on ^ttuce leaves with Ravigote 

ONIONS ON TOAST Onions steamed till very sauce - 

well done, then mashed through a colander or ONION SOUP WITH CRUSTS-Make a thin 

tamis, seasoned, simmered with meat gravy cream of chicken soup, thinly slice half a pound 

fancy cut slices of toast then spread thickly of onions to each g allon of SOU P- f T them with 

with the onions and served very hot, (a good butter to a & olden color ' then add them to the 

thing for a cold on the chest) SOU P and simmer for ten minutes; served with 

STEWED ONIONS-Onions cut in quarters, a small unsweetened rusk to each plate, 

steamed till half done, then simmered in a pars- PUREE OF BERMUDA ONIONS-Bermuda 

ley butter sauce till done; served as a vegetable. onions H g htl y fried with butter and little Su 8 ar - 

BRAISED ONIONS Medium sized onions flour added to form a roux - moi stened with 

peeled, blanched, drained, arranged in a pan chicken stock - simmered till done, the whole 

or brasiere, baked and basted with slices of then rubbed through a tamis, and added to % 

bacon and its fat till brown and glazy; served of . its bulk of cream or cream sauce; served 

as a garnish or vegetable. Wlth croutons. 

ONION SAUCE -Well boiled onions mashed A variation of the above recipe is, after it is 

through a tamis, slightly moistened with sauce P assed throu g h the tamis, place it back on 

made from mutton stock; to be served with the ran S e - brm S to the boil - then add a rich 

boiled mutton liaison of egg yolks and cream, finish with a 

ONION SAUCE-Onions peeled and parboiled Httle Very finely ch Pped parsley> 

then cut up small and blanched again, then ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE CANAPES- 

allowed to simmer in a white sauce if to be A cream soup made of white stock with plenty 

served with boiled meat, and in a brown sauce of minced onions boiled in it till very tender, 

if to be served with roast or braised meat. adding a little chopped parsley; fancy cut slices 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



119 



of toast spread with cheese and melted on in ORANGE PIE One dozen sound oranges cut 

into thin slices, seeds and cores removed, cov- 
ered with six quarts of water, allowed to soak 
for 24 hours, then put all on to boil; boil slowly 
for three hours, then add seven pounds of 
granulated sugar, and boil till clear, pour off 
into a crock, allow to set, and you then have 
the filling. Line pie plates with puff paste 
trimmings, making a raised edge, spread well 
with the filling, bake; when done, spread with 
an orange flavored custard, on it pipe a fancy 
meringue, brown quickly; serve. This is one 
of the most delicious pies it is possible to 
make. 

ORANGE MARMALADE 24 oranges, 8 lem- 
ons; oranges peeled and the pith removed, the 
peel then boiled till tender, about three 
hours, changing the water three times, the 
first time it is put on in cold water, the chang- 
ing time in boiling water; when tender, drain, 
shred very fine; meanwhile extract every drop 
of juice from all the oranges and lemons, meas- 
ure it, then add one-fourth of its bulk of clear 
water, measure it again, and to every pint, add 
one and a half pounds of granulated sugar, 
then the shredded rinds, bring to the boil, 
skim, then continue boiling till thick enough to 
set. 



the oven, one in each plate, the soup poured 
over it and sent to table. 

BROWN ONION PUREE Fried onions, flour 
added to form a roux and browned, moistened 
with roast veal gravy and stock, the whole then 
rubbed through a tamis; served with croutons. 

ONION PUREE WITH FISH QUENELLES 
Make the white "Pure< of Bermuda onions" of 
a preceding recipe, and serve with quenelles of 
fish that may be on hand. 

BUTTON ONION SOUP WITH PEAS A 
cream of chicken soup with plenty of very small 
button onions boiled in it, also fresh or canned 
green peas. 

OPOSSUM A Southern animal found in hollow 
trees, hunted for by trained dogs, is killed, 
scalded, scraped, split, skin scored like a suckling 
pig, arranged in a pan surrounded with peeled 
and split sweet potatoes, roasted and basted till 
done; served with the potatoes and corn bread. 

ORANGE JAM Four pounds of oranges, one 
pound of lemons, four pounds of sugar, one 
pound of butter, 32 yolks and 4 whole eggs. 
The fruit grated, the juice extracted, the juice, 
sugar and grated rinds then boiled together, 
butter melted and beaten up with the yolks and 
eggs, added to the boiling juice, constantly 
stirring till of a jam consistency; used for pie 
filling, layer cake spreading, filling darioles, 
cheesecakes, patty-pan tarts, etc., etc. 

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING Two pounds of 
stale sponge cake; juice of 8, and grated rinds 
of 2 oranges, i cup of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, 6 beaten eggs, i pint of milk. 
Boil the milk, pour it to the sponge cake, whip 



dients, fill into molds, bake; serve with orange 
sauce. 

ORANGE FRITTERS Large oranges peeled, 
pith removed, pulled into quarters, simmered 
for five minutes in boiling syrup, drained, 
dipped in frying batter (see batters), fried in hot 
deep fat, taken up, dusted with powdered sugar; 
served with claret sauce. 

COMPOTE OF ORANGES Small oranges (the 
seedless variety) peeled, pith removed, blanched, 
drained, blanched again, then simmered in the 
left over syrup of the preceding recipe, the 
peel of the oranges boiled tender in two or three 
waters, then finely shredded and added to . the 
syrup; when done, allow to become cold; served, 
an orange decorated on top with the shredded 
peel, the syrup poured around. 

CANAPE OF ORANGES Oranges peeled and 
the pith removed, pulled apart in sections, the 
sections boiled for a few minutes in syrup, 
taken up and arranged on fancy shapes of bread 
that have been fried a golden brown with butter. 



JELLIED ORANGES Oranges with the stem 
end cut to form a lid, emptied of their contents 
with a spoon, the shells then soaked overnight, 
they are then drained, then half filled with a 
colored fruit jelly and allowed to set, then filled 
with another colored fruit jelly, closed, set 
away in ice till firm; served by cutting in halves 
or quarters, and arranging on serving dish with 
the colors alternating. 

ORANGE SAUCE Roast duck carcasses boiled 
down with some Espagnole sauce, then 
strained, orange juice then added to taste for 
the quantity made, finely shredded and boiled 
rinds then added. [The natural sauce for roast 
domestic ducks] . 

ORANGES WITH RICE Quartered and peeled 
oranges with the pith and seeds removed, 
boiled in syrup till tender, the syrup then 
thickened with corn starch and allowed to sim- 
mer till clear; when done, add a little maras- 
chino; to serve, dry boiled rice grains arranged 
as a border on an oval platter, the rice sprink- 
led with finely chopped pistachio nuts, the 
oranges and sauce in the centre, (this is always 
an acceptable sweet entree). 

ORANGE TRIFLE Slice of orange-flavored 
sponge cake spread with marmalade, this spread 
with custard, the custard piped with whipped 
cream, the edges sprinkled with finely choppea 
pistachio nuts. 
ORTOLAN A very small game bird, a native of 



lao THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

Southern Europe. Our rice bird does duty for them in a serving casserole, moisten with a rich 

it here generally. truffle sauce containing plenty of sliced truffles, 

ORTOLANS IN CROUSTADE The bird bake for ten minutes in a quick oven; serve in 

plucked and singed, neck and gizzard only of the casserole. 

the inside removed, season with nutmeg, salt QX-TAIL SOUP-Saw the tails into neat pieces 

and pepper; large truffles hollowed out, the hal{ inch thick( soak over night in salted water; 

bird placed in the truffle, arranged in a sautoir, with a large sized column cutter stamp out 

with bacon over the breasts, moistened with a s i ices of white and yellow turnipi carrot; drain 

mirepoix and some Madeira wine, cooked about and wipe the pieces o{ ox . tail| then saute - them 

twenty minutes, taken up and placed in a fancy with the vegetables, add them to a rich brown 

bread croustade; reduce the sauce in sautoir to stock fl avor ed with sweet herbs and celery, 

a demi-glaze, remove the bacon, mask with the s i mmer till tails are tender and gelatinous, 

glaze; serve surrounded with watercress. then thicken the soup with roux, season with 

ORTOLANS IN CASES Make (or use t h e salt and pepper, port wine and mushroom cat- 
bought ones) a fancy paste croustade case, line sup. 

it with foie-gras; ortolans plucked and singed, CLRAR QX . TAIL SOU P-A consomme" of rich 

feet, beak and skm of head removed truss, poultry and 

season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, place one & flayor Q{ fa fa which ^ jJJJJ and 

m each lined case cover with a strip of fat bles as fa the di reci finish 

bacon, roast in moderate oven about 20 mm- flav0 ring of porf wine, 
utes, remove the bacon; serve with a spoonful 

of Madeira sauce over the bird. HARICOT OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in 

BROILED ORTOLANS-Pluck and singe th e their natural J oints - the Iar 8 e end s P Ht - P laced 

birds, wipe with a damp cloth, remove beak m a dee P sautoir with fat from the stock top- 

and feet, truss, but do not draw, season with P in 8 s and some sliced onions, fry a nice brown, 

salt, pepper and nutmeg, wrap in a buttered stock then added to wel1 cover - stewed for 

paper case, broil over a raked clean space of about three hours ' then taken U P- the stock 

the grill, in ten minutes the bird will be done; strained and freed from grease, the tails placed 

serve with the paper, surrounded with water- in another sautoir with slices of braised carrot 

cress, paper to be removed by waiter at the and turni P- sauce made from the strained 

guest's request, just as about to be eaten. stock - then P oured over the ta ^ and vegeta- 

ROAST ORTOLANS-The birds plucked and bles> se / SOD whh salt ' P^per, mushroom cat- 
singed, wiped, slit made in the side and the SU P * d P ort wme: ser d w ' thm , a ^f f 
gizzard removed, cut off beak and feet, skin Cashed potatoes, sprinkling the tails with finely 

the head, which place inside where the gizzard 

was, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, CURRY OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in their 

wrap around each a thin slice of bacon, or natural joints, the large end split, lightly fried 

wrap each in a vine leaf if procurable, roast with onion, then taken up into a sautoir, covered 

about ten minutes; serve on a fancy cut slice of with a rich curry sauce, simmered till tender; 

bread fried a delicate brown with butter, pour serve within a border of boiled grains of rice, 

round a rich Madeira sauce. SAUTfe OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in their 

BROCHETTE OF ORTOLANS Pluck, singe natural joints, the large end split, seasoned 

and wipe the birds, remove the gizzard, rub with powdered mixed herbs, rolled in flour, 

the body with lemon, then roll each one in soft sautee"d a light brown with butter, taken up in- 

maitre d'hotel butter, then in grated bread to a sautoir, covered with sauce Robert, sim- 

crumbs (not cracker dust), then thread them on mered till tender; served garnished with a 

a skewer, broil; serve on toast buttered with braised jardiniere of vegetables, 

the drippmgs from the broiling, garnish with O X-TONGUE BOILED-Salted ox-tongue, put 

lemon and watercress. to boil in cold water and CQoked tm tender( 

FRIED ORTOLANS-The birds plucked and according to size, but generally about three 

singed, feet and beak removed, gizzards drawn, hours> then take up and skini remov e the bones 

head skinned and placed where gizzard was, from t h e root and trim off the waste fat, then 

rubbed with lemon, dipped in maitre d'h6tel keep hot in seasoned broth; to serve, cut in thin 

butter, then in grated breadcrumbs, then in sliceSi p i ace them overlapping each other down 

beaten eggs and again in the crumbs, plunged in the centre of the dish, first dipping each slice 

boiling hot fat, fried ten minutes; served with into a jellied gravy or demi-glaze, then garnish 

a rich brown Italian sauce. t h e sides with either a pure"e of spinach, flageo- 

TRUFFLED ORTOLANS Pluck and singe let beans, a macedoine or jardiniere of vegeta- 

the birds, remove beak, feet and gizzard, skin bles, Brussels sprouts, pieces of cauliflower, 

the head and place where gizzard was, arrange stringless green beans or asparagus points. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 121 

BRAISED FRESH OX-TONGUE Blanch and DRY STEW Same as preceding, no milk and 

trim a good sized tongue, then place it in a but little oyster liquor. 

braisiere with slices of carrot, turnip, celery BOX STEW Dry stew of the very largest 

onions, a few cloves, bay leaf, mace, salt, pep- oysters placed on a slice of buttered toast, then 

per and a glass of cooking brandy, cover with boiling cream with a little butter poured over 

good stock, then biaise slowly till tender; when the whole. 

done, taken up and placed in a sautoir, the BOSTON STEW Simply a milk stew of count 

braise then strained and skimmed, then mixed oysters, but the oysters on toast as in box stew, 

with some Madeira sauce and reduced to half INDIAN STEW Box stew, but using equal 

glaze, this is then poured over the tongue and parts of chicken curry sauce with the cream, 

kept hot in it; served in thin slices overlapping PHILADELPHIA STEW Very large oysters 

each other down the centre of dish, covered in their shells placed on a very hot grill; mean- 

with the glaze, and garnished with small que- time scald and skim some oyster liquor, season 

nelles or croquettes of potatoes. it with salt, red pepper and butter; when the 

SMOKED OX-TONGUE, GERMAN STYLE oysters are broiled, remove them from their 

Smoked tongue soaked over night in cold water, shells, place them in the boiling liquor; serve 

then scrubbed, parboiled for half an hour, taken in soup plate, garnished with strips of buttered 

up and trimmed, then placed in a sautoir with toast. 

well washed sauer-kraut, onion stuck with BROILED SHELL OYSTERS Scrub the shells 

cloves, carrot and a bunch of soup herbs; mois- clean, lay them on a very hot grill, when they 

ten with stock, lay slices of fat salt pork over open their shells, take them up and remove the 

the top, put on the lid and place in a medium flat shell, also loosen the oyster from the deep 

oven, cook till tongue is tender, about two shell, place a few drops of melted butter or 

hours, take up; serve in thin slices with Poiv miitre d'hotel butter on each oyster, then 

rade sauce, flanked with the sauer-kraut. serve very hot. 

BOILED SMOKED TONGUE, SAUCE PI- BROILED OYSTERS Very large oysters wiped 
QUANTE Smoked tongue soaked overnight dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in 
in cold water, then scrubbed, put to boil in flour, arranged between a wire hinged broiler, 
cold water, cooked till tender, taken up, skinned brush with melted butter, broil till done, bast- 
and trimmed; served in slices with Piquante ing with butter while broiling; serve overlap- 
sauce, garnished with gherkins. ping each other on buttered toast, garnish with 
BRAISED FRESH TONGUE, SAUCE ITAL- c fess and quartered lemons. 
IAN Fresh ox-tongue put to boil in cold BROILED OYSTERS BREADCRUMBED 
water, boiled one hour, taken up, skinned and Same way as the preceding, but after dipp ng 
trimmed, then larded with seasoned strips of in flour, they are dipped in beaten eggs, then 
fat pork and lean strips of ham, arranged in rolled in bread (not cracker) crumbs, 
braisiere with sliced vegetables, herbs, spices DEVILLED OYSTERS Oysters scalde d , 
and pieces of fat bacon, moistened with stock, drained, cut in squares, the liquor with a little 
braised till tender, taken up, the braise re- cream made into a thick butter sauce with an 
duced, strained and skimmed, then added to a added egg yolk or two; season with salt, red 
thick rich brown Italian sauce, the tongue pepper and chopped parsley, then add the oys- 
served in slices with the sauce and garnished ters, fill into large deep oyster shells, then 
with sauteed button mushrooms. strew the top with breadcrumbs and melted 
OYSTER STEW Bulk oysters (selects) for butter, bake off a delicate brown and serve very 
hotels when served for dinners, breakfasts, sup- hot. 

pers, luncheons, and catering parties. Counts PANNED OYSTERS Another form of dry 

for restaurant orders, club and European plan stew; oysters washed and drained, very hot 

orders. The oysters scalded in their own frying pan with a little melted butter, oysters 

liquor, taken up, the liquor skimmed and thrown in and shuffled about till they sizzle, 

poured back to the oysters, milk brought to the turned out into a small hot soup plate, season 

boil; bowl or serving dish containing a piece of with salt and cayenne. 

GOOD butter, salt, dash of red pepper; oysters ROAST SHELL OYSTERS-The shells scrubbed 
and liquor poured to it, then filled up with dean> arrange d in a baking pan, placed in a 
boiling milk; served with oyster crackers: a dish yery hot oven; when they open remove the 
of finely shred cabbage is sometimes served flat shell and i oosen t h e oyster from the deep 
with it- -but why? shell, place a little melted butter in each, serve 
CREAM STEW Prepared as above, using quickly with strip of hot buttered toast aside, 
cream instead of milk. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Baking pan inch and 
PLAIN STEW Same as oyster stew above, us- a half deep, brushed with butter, oyster crack- 
ing more oyster liquor and no milk. ers rolled fine with rolling pin, the buttered 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



pan well lined with them, oysters drained, laid 
all over the rolled crackers, seasoned lightly 
with salt and pepper (mixed), then well cov- 
ered with more of the crackers, this then 
sprinkled well with a mixture of oyster liquor, 
milk and melted butter, then another layer of 
oysters, season as before, cover with the rolled 
crackers, moisten well with the mixed liquors, 
bake quickly well done, but a delicate brown; 
cut out in squares; serve very hot, garnish with 
cress and lemon. [For individual orders in 
scallop shells, they should be prepared the 
same way]. 

STEAMED OYSTERS Shell oysters well 
scrubbed, placed in a steamer, turn on full 
steam, time three minutes; meantime take a 
small deep soup plate, in it have melted butter, 
salt and a dash of red pepper, open out the 
oysters and their liquor into it; serve very hot 
with strips of buttered toast. 
GLAZED OYSTERS ON TOAST-Large oysters 
wiped dry, sautee'd quickly with butter, take up, 
pour the liquor from the sauteeing into a rich 
Madeira sauce, adding a piece of glaze, reduce 
this rapidly to half glaze; have the serving 
platter hot with strip of buttered toast down 
the centre, dip the oysters into the half glaze 
aud arrange them overlapping each other on 
the toast, garnish with cress and lemon. 

BACON COATED OYSTERS, FRIED Large 
oysters wiped dry, very thin slices of parboiled 
bacon rolled round the oysters and pinned with 
a toothpick, dipped in batter, fried, toothpick 
withdrawn; served with tomato sauce. 

SAUCE COATED OYSTERS, FRIED Large 
oysters wiped dry, clipped into a thick Villeroi 
sauce, allowed to set, then dipped into beaten 
eggs, rolled well in sifted breadcrumbs, fried a 
golden brown; served garnished with quartered 
lemon. 

OYSTERS STUFFED AND BROILED One 
pint cf egg yolks stirred without much beating, 
poured into a buttered pan and steamed till set 
firm, allowed to cool, then grate them; one 
pound of cooked fat salt pork minced very fine, 
added to the grated yolks with some chopped 
parsley ; season to taste with salt and pepper; 
five dozen large oysters wiped dry, slit made in 
their sides, stuffed with the mixture, rolled in 
sifted breadcrumbs, then rolled in melted but- 
ter and again in the crumbs, arrange between 
a wire hinged broiler, broil a golden brown, 
basting with butter; serve garnished with 
quartered lemon and fried parsley. 

BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS Mince some 
thyme, parsley and shallots very fine, add a 
little salt and pepper; wipe large oysters dry, 
roll them in the herbs, then dip in beaten eggs, 
then in sifted breadcrumbs, then arrange them 
alternately on a skewer with pieces of sweet- 



bread and bacon, fry; serve on toast with 
maitre d'hotel butter and quartered lemon. 
CROUSTADE OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded 
in their own liquor, taken up, the liquor then 
added to equal quantities of Velout6 and an- 
chovy sauces, reduce till thick, then add the 
oysters, fill into fancy croustades, sprinkle 
over the tops a mixture of grated Parmesan 
cheese and breadcrumbs, bake a delicate 
brown in a quick oven and serve on hot plate 
with paper doily. 

OYSTERS BAKED WITH MUSHROOMS 
Fricassee the oysters and mushrooms, having 
the sauce thick, fill into individual molds or 
shells, sprinkle the top with mixed cheese and 
breadcrumbs, bake a delicate brown; serve 
very hot. 

FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded 
till plump in boiling milk, taken up, butter 
melted in sautoir and allowed to frizzle with- 
out becoming colored, flour then added to form 
a roux, made into thick sauce with the milk, 
seasoned with salt, red pepper, lemon juice and 
a dash of Harvey sauce, finished with a liaison 
of egg yolks and cream. Hot serving platter, 
buttered toast down the centre, oysters dipped 
in the sauce, placed overlapping each other down 
the toast; served with more of the sauce at 
the sides. 

BAKED OYSTERS WITH CHEESE Oysters 
wiped dry, then rolled in sifted breadcrumbs 
that are mixed with Parmesan cheese and 
chopped parsley, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per, moistened with little white wine; arrange 
in scallop shell, strew with more cheese, bake 
a delicate brown and serve very hot. 

FRIED OYSTERS Count oysters rolled in 
cracker dust or yellow corn meal, then in beat- 
en eggs, then in the meal again, fried; served 
with quartered lemon. 

FANCY FRY- Count oysters wiped dry, sea- 
soned with mixed salt and red pepper, dipped 
in flour, then in mixed beaten eggs and whipped 
cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs, pressed 
slightly between the hands, fried a golden 
brown with butter; served with quartered 
lemon and garnished with green stuff, 

OYSTERS BAKED WITH POTATOES Large 
oysters wiped dry, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per. Duchesse potato mixture rolled out thin, 
cut out in diamond shapes, oysters laid in the 
centre, edges folded over and pinched into 
shape, arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
brushed over with beaten egg, baked a golden 
brown; served very hot. 

OYSTER LOAF Small French rolls, insides 
hollowed out, the loaf shell then fried a golden 
brown with butter, the interior then filled with 
a fricassee of oysters. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



123 



CURRIED OYSTERS Oysters scalded and OYSTER PATTIES The Supreme above filled 
drained, curry sauce made from the liquor, into puff paste patty shells, 
finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. OYSTER POT PIE The Supreme above, keep- 



Rice boiled in some scalded oyster liquor; 
served as a border to the curried oysters in the 
centre. 

BAKED OYSTERS, ITALIAN STYLE Maca- 
roni boiled in one inch lengths in oyster liquor 
from the scalded oysters, Fricasee sauce made 
of the liquor after the macaroni is drained. 
Buttered baking pan, alternate layers of the 
macaroni and oysters, the top strewn with 
mixed grated cheese and breadcrumbs, dashed 
with melted butter, sauce then poured over, 
baked till set; served very hot. 

OYSTERS IN CASSEROLE Line the casserole 



ing out the oysters till the pie is finished, i. e., 
prepare the sauce.put it into the saucepan, bring 
to the boil, drop light dumplings all over it 
close together, place on the lid, and cook till 
dumplings are done, then remove the centre 
one, place in the oysters, replace the dumpling, 
keep very hot, but do not let it boil again; this 
method keeps the oysters plump and tender; 
serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley. 
Cod and oyster pot pie may be prepared the 
same way, and is useful when oysters are few 
and you have some cod that wants using up, 
such as the shoulders that cannot be cut into 
nice steaks. 



^r i rr^^^ n l a c. to ^EP I GR^ME^OFOYM l ^A^^to. 

lightly and serve. 



CREAMED OYSTERS ON TOAST Scalded 
oysters placed into a rich cream sauce, then 
arranged on buttered toast; served with the 
sauce poured over. 

OYSTERS WITH CELERY To each portion 



as above, having the sauce thick enough to stay 
on the oyster when lifted out; arrange them 
down the centre of the serving dish, flanked 
with neatly fried oysters; serve garnished with 
triangle shaped pieces of buttered toast, the 
point dipped into the sauce, then into lobster 
coral. 



of oysters allow a tablespoonful of minced white SAUCE-Oysters blanched and drain- 

celery and the same of sherry wine, saute all 
together with butter, season with salt and red 



pepper; serve on toast with the liquor poured 
over. 



ed, liquor strained through muslin, brought 
to the boil, a butter and flour roux moistened 
with the boiling liquor, seasoned with salt, red 
pepper and lemon juice, finished with some 
boiling cream; this is used for white foods. 



OYSTER TOAST Oysters scalded and drained, 
then pounded to a paste with cream, seasoned 

with lemon juice and red pepper, spread on OYSTER SAUCE For brown foods such as 

circles of brown bread toast. steaks, fried fish, meat pies, oyster pies, roast 

OYSTER OMELET-Scald the oysters, add the turkfi y- roast ca P n ' etc ". is Prepared same as 

liquor -to a sauce Normande, reduce, put the the preceding, but substituting a good brown 

oysters into the omelet, dip two of them into sauce for the boilin g cream ' 

the sauce and place on top, then pour the sauce STEAK AND OYSTER PIE Tender pieces of 



around the omelet. 

SUPREME OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded 
and drained, the liquor strained through muslin 
and added to a rich Veloute sauce, brought to the 
boil, piece of chicken glaze then added, then 
finish by adding a little thick cream and the 
juice of a lemon, add the oysters; serve on 
toast. 

OYSTER PIE Diamond shaped pieces of puff 
pastry % of an inch thick when baked, split, 
the under side laid on the serving platter, the 



beef cut into small neat pieces, seasoned with 
pepper and salt, quickly sautee'd a nice color 
with butter, taken up and placed into the pie 
dish, oysters scalded and drained. Into the pan 
the beef was sautee'd in add a little more but- 
ter, then flour to form a roux, moisten with the 
strained boiling liquor, boil, skim, strain over 
the meat and let simmer till meat is nearly 
done, then add the oysters, some good brown 
sauce, a seasoning of salt, pepper, lemon juice 
and Harvey sauce, cover with puff paste, bake 
quickly; serve hot. 



Supreme above laid on it. the upper part of the OYS TER CROQUETTES-Two quarts of Se- 



pastry laid on; served immediately. Another 
way, take the Supreme of oysters, add some 
chopped hard boiled eggs and parsley, fill in to a 
pie dish, cover with a puff paste, bake off 
quickly without letting the oysters come to the 
boil in the pie. 

AND OYSTER PIE The Supreme above 
with the addition of flakes of fresh boiled cod- 
fish, prepared and served in the ways given for 
oyster pie. 



lects or Standard oysters, one can of mush- 
rooms, the liquor of the mushrooms poured to 
the oysters, which are then scalded and drained, 
the scalded liquor then strained through mus- 
lin; mushrooms minced and sauted a golden 
color with butter, taken up, flour then added to 
form a roux, thick sauce then made with the 
boiling liquor, adding a little cream and a sea- 
soning of salt, pepper, lemon juice, Anchovy 
and Harvey sauces, the chopped oysters and 



I2 4 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

mushrooms then added, boiled, finished to sprinkle with chili sauce, cover with another 

proper thickness with a liaison of egg yolks slice of toast, trim the edges, cut across and 

and cream; turned into a buttered shallow pan, serve. 

smoothed, covered with a sheet of oiled paper, BREADED OYSTERS, CELERY SAUCE 

allowed to become firm and cold, then formed Large oysters wiped dryi sea soned with salt 

into shape of sausages, breaded, fried; served and pe pp e r, dipped in melted butter, then in 

with brown oyster sauce. f resh gratec j breadcrumbs, place between a 

OYSTER CUTLETS MINCED The croquette w i re hinged broiler, broil rapidly a delicate 

preparation made into the shape of rib chops, brown, then place on a narrow strip of hot 

breaded, fried; served with brown oyster sauce. f res h buttered toast; serve with celery cream 

OYSTER RISSOLES Crimped circles of puff sauce poured around. 

paste, the centre containing some oyster cro- QYSTER BOUCHEES For two dozen, blanch 

quette mixture, edges then folded over and four dozen oysters in their Qwn Hquor take up 

pinched, brushed with egg wash, baked. and p j ace two in each bouche(i strain the liquor 

OYSTER STUFFING For fish and poultry: through muslin, add its equal volume of rich 

oysters blanched and drained, cut in quarters, tomato puree", then season with butter and 

or if using Standards, leave them whole. Moist tabasco sauce, bring to the boil, keep the 

stale bread grated one part, rolled oyster crack- bouchees hot, and when serving, fill up with 

ers one part, the third part of oysters, the the boiling sauce. 

whole mixed together and seasoned with salt, O YSTER PLANT, FRIED-Scraped clean and 

pepper and chopped parsley, the liquor brought ^^ COQtaini JJ and a Hule 

to the boil with an addition of butter, poured wfaite yin ^ fQ be g cookedt first boil 

to the dry mixture, stirred, then ready for use. ^^ tfaen take up and ^.^ d . Qto {ry - ng 

OYSTER SOUP-Scald the oysters, drain, strain batter> plunge intQ hot fat f a delicate browDi 

the liquor through muslin, bring to the boil, take sprinkle with salt and serve as a veg - 

season with salt, red pepper, mace, Harvey e t a ble 
and Anchovy sauces, flour and butter roux, 

moistened with the strained liquor, boiled up, OYSTER PLANT, BOILED-Pr e par e as 

skimmed, then poured to an equal quantity of above - then boil tender - take U P and drain - 

Bechamel sauce, add the scalded oysters; serve P lace in vegetable steamer, cover with cream 

with oyster crackers. sauce; serve as a vegetable. 

OYSTER SOUP-Oysteni and their liquor scalded OYSTER PLANT.SAUCE POULETTE-Scrape 

in strong fish broth, taken up and drained, the clean - t cut sma11 P ieces - lav acidulated 

liquor strained; a can of mushrooms opened, water for an hour - then boil tlU tender m bo11 ' 

liquor poured to the broth, the mushrooms in g water containing salt and and a little white 

minced with some shallots, fried with plenty of vine g ar : whsn done - taken U P- turned into hot 

butter, then taken up and added to the scalded Poulette sauce and served, 

oysters; flour added to the frying butter to OYSTER PLANT FRITTERS Prepared and 

form a roux, this then thinned to soup consist- boiled as above, when drained, mashed thor- 

ency with the boiling broth, season to taste, oughly, then seasoned and stiffened with salt, 

oysters, etc., then added with some chopped pepper, yolk of egg and flour, spoonfuls then 

parsley and a glass of white wine; serve with fried in hot fat, taken up, sprinkled with salt 

oyster crackers. and served. 

OYSTER GUMBO Minced onions, green pep- STEWED OYSTER PLANT The plant pre- 

pers and ham fried with plenty of butter, then pared and boiled as above, then stewed in a 

taken up, oysters scalded in their own liquor rich meat gravy sauce; served on hot buttered 

and fish broth, taken up and drained, half a toast. 

gallon can of tomatoes rubbed through a fine OYSTER PLANT SAUTE-The plant prepared, 

sieve then added to the strained liquor and boiled draine d, then rolled in flour. sauteeM a 

boiled, skimmed, Jflour added to the butter to golden brown with butter; served on toast with 

form a roux. moistened to soup consistency hot mahre d>hotel sauce poured over 
with the boiling liquor and tomatoes, seasoned, 

two cans of okra then added with a little Doiled PANCAKES-Known to us in every household 

rice, then the oysters and other fried ingredi- "as "batter cakes' . For recipes, see heading 

ents; served with oyster crackers. of " batter "- 

OYSTER SANDWICH-Three or four dozen PARMESAN-Name of an Italian cheese; see 

oysters dried with a cloth, melted butter in a beading of "cheese". 

frying pan, drop in the oysters and saute" them PARSLEY A garden herb used as a garnish; to 

brown, take up, chop fine, season with salt and ornament dishes, chopped and mixed in sauces, 

pepper, spread on hot thin buttered toast, stews, soups, salads, etc. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



125 



PARSNIP A root vegetable, peeled, cut in finger 
lengths, boiled in salted water, taken up and 
drained; served as an accompaniment to boiled 
salt leg of pork. 

PARSNIPS, CREAM SAUCE Boiled in finger 
lengths, drained, placed in cream sauce; served 
as a vegetable. 

PARSNIPS FRIED IN BATTER Boiled in 
finger lengths in salted water, taken up and 
drained, dipped in batter, fried in hot lard, 
taken up, sprinkled with salt and served. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS Boiled, mashed, sea- 
soned and stiffened with salt, pepper, yolks of 
eggs and flour, fried by spoonfuls in hot lard, 
taken up, sprinkled with salt, served. 

PARSNIP SAUTEES-Boiled tender in finger 
lengths, drained, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per, rolled in flour, sautee*d a delicate brown 
with butter, taken up, sprinkled with chopped 
parsley and served 

MASHED PARSNIPS- Boiled tender, mashed. 
seasoned with salt and pepper, milk and butter; 
served as a vegetable. 

rjAT^T-* T^A-DOXTTT-,O T, , j j 

BAKED PARSNIPS-Peeled, quartered, steamed 

till nearly done, taken up and arranged ma 
buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, moistened I with rich gravy and butter, 
baked tender and brown. 

PARTRIDGE BROILED Young birds split 
down the back, breastbone removed, trussed. 
seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with 
olive oil, broiled and basted well done; served 
on buttered toast with maitre d'hotel butter, 
garnished with jelly and parsley; may also be 
garnished with slices of fried hominy or bacon, 
or after broiling, served with either Colbert, 
Italian or Madeira sauces. 

ROAST PARTRIDGE Young birds singed and 
drawn, wiped with towel, trussed with a slice 
of fat bacon tied over the breast, roasted about 
half an hour; served with game sauce and red 
currant jelly. 

BOILED PARTRIDGE Singed, drawn, wiped 
and trussed, boiled in white stock till tender; 
served with a rich cream sauce. 

BOILED PARTRIDGE, GARNISHED Part- 
ridges singed, drawn, wiped and trussed, put to 
boil with cabbage, bacon, pork sausages, 
frankforts, parsley, white stock and a little 
sherry wine; when tender, taken up, the meats 
also, parsley thrown away, cabbage pressed 
dry, then chopped, the remaining liquor strained 
into a rich game sauce. To serve, place a 
spoonful of cabbage in centre of dish, portion 
of bird on it, flanked with a piece of bacon, 
sausage, frankfort (skinned), sauce poured 
over - 

PARTRIDGE SAUTfe Young birds singed, 
drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned with salt and 



pepper, sauteed with butter a delicate brown, 
taken up, minced shallots then added to the 
butter with button mushrooms and fried; 
when browned, surplus butter poured off, part- 
ridge put back, covered with Espagnole, boiled 
up and skimmed, seasoned with Madeira wine, 
simmered till tender; served garnished with 
fancy croutons. 

SALMI OF PARTRIDGE The birds singed, 
drawn, wiped, trussed, roasted, cooled, quart- 
ered, the back and breastbones with other 
trimmings then placed in some Espagnole with 
bacon, minced onion, bay leaf, thyme and 
crushed peppers, brought to the boil and rap- 
idly reduced, skimmed, strained over the birds 
in another sautoir, seasoned with sherry wine, 
simmered a few minutes; served garnished with 
croutons. 

PARTRIDGE LARDED AND BRAISED The 
birds singed, drawn and wiped, the breasts 
larded, trussed, arranged in brasiere with slices 
of root vegetables and sweet herbs; place a few 
slices of bacon on top, moisten with a little 
stock, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, 
place on the lid and put in a slow oven to cook 
in its own steam for about two hours; when 
done, take up, add a game sauce to the liquor 
in the brasiere, reduce, strain, flavor with 
sherry wine, glaze the birds; serve with the 
sauce. 

PARTRIDGE SAUTE WITH RISSOTO-Young 
birds singed, drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, fried lightly with butter, 
taken up; into the butter they were fried in, 
add flour to form a roux, moisten with game 
stock made from the backbones and trimmings, 
add the juice and a little of the grated rind of a 
sour orange, put in the fried birds, simmer 
slowly till tender; served with a border of ris- 
soto. 

BREAST OF PARTRIDGE LARDED AND 
FRIED Take the breasts, trim and lard them, 
season with salt, pepper and powdered thyme, 
dip in beaten egg, then roll in freshly grated 
breadcrumbs, arrange in a sautoir, pour over 
melted butter, placed in a moderate oven and 
brown nicely on both sides; serve on a fancy 
crouton with a little Richelieu or Sultana sauce 
poured around. 

EPIGRAMME OF PARTRIDGE WITH 
MUSHROOMS Take young birds, remove 
the breasts, lard them, bread and fry as pre- 
ceding one half of them, slowly broil the re- 
maining half, (so that you have one plain and 
one breaded), dish up one of each, points cross- 
ing each other, garnish with fried mushrooms 
in a Fumet sauce. 

BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, SAUCE COL- 
BERT Take the breasts of young birds, lard 
them, slowly broil them till done; served on 



126 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

bnttered toast with sauce Colbert poured PARTRIDGE RISSOLES, SAUCE RICHE- 

around. LIEU Make a croquette mixture with cold 

BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, GLAZED VEGE- cooked partridge and game sauce, stamp out 

TABLES Take the breasts of young birds, crimped circles of thin puff paste, place a little 

lard and roast them. With an half inch sized col- of the mixture in the centres, fold over the 

umn cutter, cut inch lengths of carrot and tur- edges and pinch close, fry or bake them of a 

nip, braise and glaze them together with but- golden color, and serve with a Richelieu sauce. 

ton onions, use them as a garnish to the breasts, EMINCE OF PARTRIDGE Take cold roast 

and pour game sauce around. partridge, cut in broad thin slices, simmer it in 

PARTRIDGE BRAISED WITH CABBAGE equal parts of white game and Godard sauces; 

Take old birds, braise them with sliced vege. ser ve on toast, garnished with sautee"d fresb 

tables and sweet herbs till three parts done, button mushrooms. 

take up into a sautoir, add cut cabbage, pour SALPICON OF PARTRIDGE-Take cold cooked 

over the strained liquor they were braised in, partridge, cut the meat in small dice, also soms 

add some thin slices of bacon (if not enough truffles> red tongue and button mushroomSi cul 

liquor add some white stock), simmer till done, same size as the birdj mix moisten wit h either 

lightly thicken the liquor with flour and butter; game Bechamel or Supreme sauces; serve 

serve portion of bird with slice of bacon on g arn i she d with small potato croquettes. 

top, cabbage around, and a little game sauce C ROUSTADES OF PARTRIDGE-Take cold 

over the bird. cooked partridge, cut the meat in small squares, 

PARTRIDGE BREADCRUMBEDAND simmer it in a rich game sauce, thenaddarag- 

BROILED-Truss the bird out like a frog, out of mushroomSi cocks combs and sweet - 

season with salt and pepper, dip twice in beat- breads; serve in paste croustadeS| garnish with 

en eggs and fresh grated breadcrumbs, broil {ancy croutons 

^lt^n^ucr taCle "^ e '' SeTVe0llt0aSt HASHED PARTRIDGE WITH EGG-Take 

1 . -wTTTiT r-i?Av cold cooked partridge, cut the meat in small 

FILLETS OF PARTRIDGE WITH CRAY- H ht , { it with butt add flour to 

FISH-Take the upper and lower fillets from ^ a ^ ^ J eQ ^ J simmer 

the breasts, trim and lard them, arrange them for fi{teeQ minut serve on toast with a 

in a sautoir with slices of bacon, moistened with trimmed and drained hed Qn then 

little stock and white wine, cover with a sheet Jsh the ends whh { crofltons- 

of buttered paper, place on the lid, braise in OATT^? T>TTT?T 

the oven; when done, glaze them, strain and P * R J W R T J G J ^ ROQ , U ^ TTE S - SAUC 

skim the braise, then add it to an Allemande GUEUX-Cold cooked partridge minced, thick 

sauce. To serve: place a ragout of crayfish ^ me ^ au , ce heated ' P art " d g e worked in, stirred 

tails in centre of dish, large fillet of partridge tlU ll b lls ' two r . three wh !PP ed J' ks ? f e ^ 

at each end with points meeting over the rag- ma >' e , WOrl ? d t " rn in ' bu ", er j d P an ' 

out, small fillets at each side, points upwards, sm 1L Oth ' let r l1 beC me thor f ou g hl y cold '. f rm x m ' 

,.,..,. to shapes of corks, bread, fry; serve with Peri- 

spnnkle over all a little lobster coral, and pour Rueux sauce 
the sauce around 

' PARTRIDGE PATTIES Prepare the mixture 



cr .? A In J PARISIAN asgiven for "croflstades of partridge", fill either 

STYLE-Take the fillets and coat them with ^ Qr vol . au . vent ca P ses R J serve . 

Allemande sauce, then in beaten eggs and sifted _ . . , 

breadcrumbs, then sprinkle with melted butter STEWED PARTRIDGE-Old birds, lard them, 

and press on a little more of the crumbs, sautS P lace thera "> * sautoir with a piece of fat 

them of a golden color with clear butter, when bacon ' sweet herbs - vegetables, moisten with 

done, take up and drain; meanwhile, prepare a white wine and stock ' let them stew slowl y tl11 

ragoflt of crayfish tails, button mushrooms, cocks ^nder, then take up and cut into quarters 

kernels and small truffles, moisten with a little J f" n the ^ uor the j ^" ^ewed in, skim off 

game glaze, Allemande sauce, crayfish butter the r at ' [ educe lt '. tben add l4 and <*e birds to 

and lemon juice. To serve: place the ragout a Chipolata garnish "(see garnishes)', serve 

in centre of dish, the fillets around it, decorate the bird Wlth the S arnish around ' 

the base with scallops of tongue, and serve PARTRIDGE SALAD-Cold roast birds skinned, 

some more of the sauce from the ragout separ- trimmed into neat pieces, moistened with one 

ate part of tarragon vinegar to two of olive oil, 

PARTRIDGE WITH BACON, CELERY add a little chopped chervil and chives, season 

SAUCE Take old birds and boil them with with salt and cayenne, mix all together with an 

salt pork, carrots, onions and turnips in white ec l ual quantity of Julienne cut celery (like 

stock till tender; serve in portions with a slice matches); serve on a bed of curly endive, garn- 

of the pork at the sides, and a puree" of celery ish with rings of hard boiled eggs and filleted 

in a white game sauce poured over. anchovies. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



127 



PAUPIETTE Name given to a thin slice of 
meat spread with forcemeat, rolled up, tied at 
each end, stewed with meat gravy; the house- 
hold name for them is "meat olives". 

PEACH One of our choice fruits, the two var- 
ieties chiefly used in hotel life being the "free- 
stone" for dessert, and the "clingstone" for 
cooking purposes. 

PEACHES WITH CREAM Freestone peaches 
skinned, cut in slices, sprinkled with powdered 
sugar, covered with thick cream and served. 

COMPOTE OF PEACHES Halves of peaches 
skinned, simmered in syrup till tender; served 
cold with a small pitcher of cream separate 
may also be served hot as a sweet entree. An 
improvement to the syrup is to take the kernels 
from the stones, blanch and skin them, then 
boil in the syrup. 

PEACH AMBROSIA-Peaches peeled and sliced, 
simmered in the above syrup till tender, taken 



serving kettle, cover, heat slowly to boiling 
point, whisk till thoroughly mashed, then rub 
through a fine sieve, then add the sugar, 
boil up, boil and stir thoroughly for fifteen 
minutes, fill into small jars; when cold, tie 
over with air-proof paper. 

PEACH JELLY Two gallons of pared and 
sliced peaches, one pint of water, two dozen of 
the kernels blanched and pounded and mixed 
with the fruit, put all into a stone crock, stand 
in the bain-marie, cover closely and let boil for 
an hour, stirring till the fruit is well broken, 
then turn into a jelly bag and let drip thor- 
oughly; to each quart of juice add the juice of 
two lemons and two pounds of sugar, bring 
quicky to the boil, then boil fast for twenty 
minutes, skim as the scum rises, roll the glasses 
in boiling water, fill with the boiling jelly, let 
cool for 24 hours, then cover with air-proof 
papers; keep in a cool place. 



up, arranged in centre of dish flanked with SPICED PEACHES Twenty-eight pounds of 

peaches, sixteen pounds of granulated sugar, 
two quarts of white wine vinegar, two ounces 
of bruised ginger, ounce of ground cloves, two 
ounces each of ground allspice and cinnamon 
and half an ounce of ground mace, mix all 
the spices together and fill into two muslin bags, 
tie tight, bring the sugar and vinegar to the boil, 
put in the spices, then the peaches peeled but 
left whole, when they come to the boil again, 
remove from the fire and carefully place them 
in a stone crock, allow to cool overnight, then 
pour off the liquid into a preserving kettle, 
gradually bring to the boil, then pour back 
over the fruit, repeat this with the liquor every 
day for ten days and on the last day reduce the 
liquor till there is only just enough to cover the 
peaches, then place the crock in the bain-marie 
and bring to boiling point, fill into fruit jars 
and use as wanted. 



slices of peeled and pipped oranges, then 
cover the peaches with some of the syrup, and 
pipe a fancy centre over them with whipped 
cream. 

PEACHES WITH RICE Rice boiled in sweet- 
ened milk with a vanilla bean till dry in grains; 
served as a border to the compote of peaches 
as above. 

PEACHES WITH RICE CROQUETTES-Rice 
boiled very tender in sweetened and flavored 
milk, then taken up and whisked till creamy, 
set with the addition of egg yolks; when cold, 
made up into two forms of croquettes, one like 
a small egg nest, the other like a small pyra- 
mid; bread them lightly, fry a golden color, 
depress the centre of the egg nest shape, and 
place in half a peach from compote, pipe the 
edge with peach marmalade, garnish with the 
pyramids, decorating the point with whipped 
cream and chopped pistachio nuts, pour syrup r>-n ANDY 



from the compote flavored with Madeira wine 
around the base, then serve. 

PEACH MARMALADE Peaches wiped but not 
pared, halved, stoned, weighed; to each pound 
of fruit allow half a pound of sugar; take a 
porcelain lined kettle, pour in just enough 
water to cover the bottom, then put in the 
peaches, place on the lid and heat slowly to 
boiling point; then stir and mash the fruit till 
fine; then add the sugar and a few blanched 
and pounded kernels, boil up again and con- 
tinue stirring for fifteen minutes, then diaw to 
a cooler part of the range and let simmer for 
twenty minutes with an occasional stir; place 
in stone crocks and use as wanted. 

PEACH BUTTER Yellow mellow peaches 
peeled and stoned, weighed; to each pound of 
fruit allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
put peaches with just a little water in the pre- 



PEACHES Large firm freestone 
peaches placed in a preserving kettle and cov- 
ered with boiling water, lid then put on and 
allowed to remain till the water becomes cold, 
then drain off the water and repeat with an- 
other scalding and cooling, then take each 
peach out of the cold water and allow to drain 
and dry between two towels, then put the fruit 
into small stone crocks and cover with brandy; 
cover with air-proof paper and allow to macer- 
ate for a week; at the week end take out and 
weigh the fruit; to each pound of peaches make 
syrup of one pound of sugar and a cupful of 
water, bring to the Doil and skim, then put in 
the fruit and simmer, when tender, take out 
and drain, put into fruit jars, allow the syrup 
to cool; when cold, make a mixture of equal 
quantities of the syrup and brandy, pour over 
the fruit in the jars, seal up, keep in a cool 
dark place, use as wanted. 



128 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BOTTLED PEACHES-Ripe, large juicy peaches 
peeled and halved, then weighed; to each 
pound, allow one pound of sugar. Take a stone 
crock, fill it with alternate layers of peaches 
and sugar, let macerate for 24 hours, then turn 
all carefully into preserving kettle with some of 
the kernels blanched and skinned, bring rapidly 
to the boil, then simmer till the fruit is tender 
and the syrup clear, take up gently and fill in- 
to fruit jars without breaking the halves, allow 
the syrup to become cold, then pour over the 
peaches, screw on the covers, use as wanted. 

PEACH COBBLER Shallow buttered baking 
pan lined with a good short paste, halves of 
peeled peaches filled into it, covered with 
powdered sugar, upper crust of short paste 
placed on and pinched down at edges, egg 
washed and baked in a medium oven for half 
an hour; served cut in squares dusted with 
powdered sugar and a small pitcher of cream 
served separately. 

PEACH SHORTCAKE Ripe freestone peaches 
peeled and chopped, mixed with sugar to taste, 
shortcake baked, split, the peaches then spread 
between and on top, the top layer then piped 
with whipped cream; served cut in squares, 
with or without a separate pitcher of cream. 

PEACH CHARLOTTE Buttered baking pan, 
slices of an evenly trimmed stale loaf dipped in 
melted 'butter and arranged around the sides 
and bottom of the pan leaving no cracks, peach 
marmalade then put in half an inch thick, cov- 
ered with more slices of the bread, brushed 
with beaten egg, then well sprinkled with gran 
ulated sugar, baked brown and glazy; served 
with or without sauce. 

PEACH CROUTONS WITH GLAZED 
FRUITS Sponge cakes baked in a long round 
mold; when one day old, cut into slices inch 
and a half thick. Compote of peaches, the 
syrup flavored with Kirschenwasser, after 
peaches are done, removed, and into the syrup 
is put pieces of angelica with other "fruits 
glaces". To serve: dip the slice of cake in 
the syrup, on it place the fruit, then decorate 
with the "fruits glaces" finish with a little of 
the syrup poured over. 

PEACH CHARTREUSE Ornamental jelly 
molds, fancy slices of "fruits glaces" peach 
butter stiffened with gelatine. Line the molds 
with a thin layer of stiff Madeira wine jelly, 
dip each slice of fruit in some more of it and 
decorate the sides of the mold in a pretty de- 
sign, then pour in some more jelly to set the 
design, then fill up with the stiffened peach 
butter, put away in ice box to set firm, turn 
out on a fancy glass dish, pipe a fancy border 
with whipped cream, sprinkle it with very 
finely chopped pistachio nuts and serve. 

PEACH TARTLETTES Fancy patty pans 
lined with puff paste, halves of preserved 



peaches placed into each, baked, then a piping 
of meringue round the edges sprinkled with 
chopped pistachio nuts, returned to oven till 
the meringue takes on a delicate fawn color; 
when serving, pipe the centre fancifully with 
whipped cream. 

PEACH FRITTERS Freestone peaches peeled 
and halved, coated with frying batter, plunged 
into hot lard, fried a golden brown, taken up 
and drained; served with wine sauce. 

PEACH DUMPLINGS Large peaches peeled 
and stoned, enclosed with short paste, steamed 
till done; served with any pudding sauce. 

PEACH PIE Peaches peeled and cut in slices, 
and made up same as apple pie. 

PEACH TRIFLE A sheet of sponge cake moist- 
ened with sherry wine, this spread with a puree 
of peaches, the peaches with whipped cream, 
cut orders in a diamond shape, and serve with 
whipped cream piped around the edges. 

PEACH ICE Pure"e of peaches flavored with 
ratafia mixed with water and sugar to taste, 
frozen; served in ice cups. 

ICED PEACHES-Large freestone peaches peeled, 
halved; stone removed; where the stone was, 
filled with the peach ice above; place the halves 
together, then coat the outside of the peach 
with more of the ice, place in refrigerating box 
till firm, then serve with whipped cream 
piped around the base. 

PEANUT One of the most nutritive of foods, is 
the peanut kernel, as they contain 7.8556 of 
water, 2.7756 of ash, 29.4756 of protein, 4.2956 of 
fiber, 14 .2756 of nitrogen free extract, 49 2956 of 
fat, 4.6756 of nitrogen. * * * In describing the 
uses of peanuts it is scarcely necessary to more 
than refer to that use which fully three- fourths 
of the American raised crop is devoted. The 
not is sorted in the factory into four grades, 
the first, second and third being sold to vendors 
of the roasted peanut, either directly or through 
jobbing houses. The fourth grade, after pass- 
ing through a shelter, is sold to confectioners, 
to be used in the making of "burnt almonds", 
peanut candy and cheaper grades of chocolates. 
The extent of the use of the peanuts by the 
American people will be more fully appreciated 
when it is remembered that they use 4,000,000 
bushels of nuts yearly (at a cost to the con- 
sumers of $10,000,000) which do not form a 
part of the regular articles of food, but are 
eaten at odd times. 

PEAR A delicious fruit, produced at its best in 
California. The Bartlett is the best for serv- 
ing plain or in the fruit stands. May be used in 
almost all the ways just previously described 
for peaches. 

PRICKLY PEAR The fruit of a cactus named 
Opuntia, is peeled, sliced, moistened with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



129 



brandy and the juice of an orange, then served 
with powdered sugar. 

PEAS Garden peas shelled and washed, the 
toppings removed from the water, put to boil 
in boiling water with salt, little sugar and a 
small bunch of green mint, boil rapidly without 
a cover till tender, about ten to fifteen minutes, 
take up and drain, remove the mint; serve plain 
as a vegetable or garnish, or mix with cream or 
gravy, or butter sauce. The dried green peas 
of commerce may, after soaking in cold water 
over night, be treated the same as fresh garden 
peas. 

GREEN PEA SOUP Garden peas shelled and 
washed, boiled till tender in good chicken broth, 
seasoned to taste, then is added some shredded 
chervil and lettuce. 

GREEN PEA SOUP Peas shelled and washed, 
boiled in white stock till tender, slightly thick- 
ened with roux, then rubbed through a tamis, 
seasoned; served with crofitons . . Tothepure 
may also be added finely cut chervil, chives, 
spring onions, asparagus points, stringless beans 
. . . also may be mixed in for a change, two 
or three cans of macedoines ... or a julienne of 
vegetables , . royal custards . . rice grains . . 
flageolet beans . . etc. 

PUREE OF PEAS Dried green peas soaked 
over night, put to boil in white stock with a ham 
knuckle, mint, onion, carrot, spring onions and 
chives; when tender, remove the ham, rub the 
rest through a tamis, season to taste, bring to 
the boil again and slightly thicken with roux, 
to avoid settling; cut the ham in small dice and 
add to the soup; serve with croutons. 

PUREE OF PEAS Dried green peas put to 
boil with salt pork and and a bunch of pot 
herbs in veal broth, boil till soft and pork is 
done, then remove pork, thicken a little with 
ronx to prevent settling, then rub through 
tamis, bring to boil again, season to taste, cut 
the pork in dice, add to the soup; serve with 
crofitons. 

SPLIT PEA SOUP Split peas soaked over 
night, put to boil in white stock with onion, 
celery, carrot and salt pork; when done, thicken 
lightly with roux to prevent settling, remove 
the pork, rub the rest through a tamis, bring to 
boil again, season to taste, add the pork cut in 
small dice; serve with crofltons. 

PEAS PUDDING An English dish used with 
boiled salt pork, salt beef, etc. Split peas 
soaked over night, then put inco a cloth allow- 
ing room to swell, put to boil in cold water with 
salt and a small piece of common washing 
soda, boiled till soft, taken up, the cloth hung 
to allow all water to drain ont, then untied, 
turned on to a dish and served with the accom- 
panying meat. 



PEPPER Black, White and Mignonette the 
berry of the pepper vine. The Black is the 
unripe berry dried; Mignonette is the black 
crushed (not ground) used in seasoning foods 
or stocks, etc., that will be strained; White is 
the kernel of the ripe berry. 

RED PEPPER is the ground seeds and pods of 
the small capsicum; also called cayenne pepper. 

PEPPERMINT Name of a combination plant 
of pepper and mint, one of the mint species; a 
volatile oil is extracted from it which is used 
for medicinal purposes, also as a flavoring to 
many things in the confectioners' trade. 

PEPPER POT Name of the national soup stew 
of the West Indies; composed of pieces of beef, 
veal, ham. chicken, game, all sorts of vege- 
tables, chopped green marjoram, savory, basil, 
parsley, small potatoes and dumplings, finished 
and seasoned with sauce cassareep and chili 
pepper. 

PERCH A delicate dainty flavored small fish 
abundant all summer in our fresh water lakes, 
rivers and streams. As the skin is hard they 
should be skinned by first running a sharp 
knife down either side of the back fins, lifting 
the fin out, then with a sharp jerk pull off the 
skin from the sides, empty the entrails, cut off 
the other fins, season with salt and pepper, roll 
in flour, then in beaten eggs, then bread- 
crumbs, fry a golden brown; serve with lemon, 
garnish with parsley, and you have a dish ac- 
ceptable to all. . . . Or, after preparing, season, 
roll in flour, broil and baste till done; serve 
garnished with chip potatoes and a little maitre 
d'hotel butter, . . . prepare and boil in salted 
water with a bunch of parsley, take up and 
drain; serve with Allemande, parsley butter or 
anchovy cream sauce, . . . prepare, season with 
salt and pepper, roll in flour, saute in butter; 
serve with a strip of bacon and a little anchovy 
butter spread on it ... prepare, season, roll in 
flour, bake with a little bacon fat till done and 
delicate brown in color; serve with Allemande 
sauce. 

PERIGUEUX Name given to a sauce made by 
frying a delicate brown together some minced 
shallots, onion and ham, then moisten with a 
glass of white wine and allow to simmer till 
half reduced, then add an equal quantity of 
brown roux and good meat gravy, also some 
truffle peelings and a piece of meat glaze, sim- 
mer the whole for ten minutes, then pass 
through the china cap, add plenty of thinly 
sliced truffles and set in bain-marie for use. 

PERSIMMON Name of a fruit resembling in 
appearance a smooth tomato, in color between 
the red and yellow sorts; best when having 
caught the frost; has a flavor from its pulpy in- 
terior like a mixture of a rough banana and 
tamarinds; its taste must be cultivated to be 



130 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



liked as a fruit. It is prepared in the Southern 
states as a beer, cider and wine. Also its pulp 
is rubbed through a sieve, mixed with corn 
meal instead of water and made into a sweet 
corn bread. 

PHEASANT A fine game bird; should be hung 
by the tail for at least a week or till its gamy 
flavor is pronounced, then pluck, draw, singe, 
wipe and truss, plunge him into boiling salted 
water with an onion and some celery stalks; 
when he is tender take out; serve in portions 
with a good combined celery pure"e sauce con- 
taining an eqnal quantity of rich oyster sauce. 

BROILED PHEASANT Take the very young 
birds, and after hanging, pluck, singe, split 
down the back, remove back and breast bones; 
season with salt and pepper, brush well with 
olive oil, place in a wire hinged broiler, broil 
over a cleared space of the charcoal till tender; 
serve with a brown game sauce. 

ROAST PHEASANT Hung birds plucked, 
singed, drawn, wiped, trussed, breasts larded, 
bacon tied over the larded breasts, roasted and 
basted till done; served in portions with bread 
sauce. 

BRAISED PHEASANT Hung birds plucked, 
singed, drawn, wiped, stuffed with aFinanciere 
ragofit mixed with grated stale bread and a little 
grated lemon rind, trussed, braised with bacon, 
sweet herbs and a little game stock; when done, 
taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, 
then poured to a game sauce, reduced, finished 
with a glass of port wine; served in portions 
with some of the ragout under, the sauce over. 
. . . May also be braised without being stuffed, 
and served with a pure"e Soubise. . . also 
braised with cabbage lettuces and pork saus- 
ages; served garnished with the sausages and 
a game sauce poured over . . .also braised, 
served garnished with glazed sweetbreads, and 
a Financiere ragout. 

PHEASANT MAY BE USED TO PRODUCE 
ALMOST ALL THE ENTREES GIVEN 
WITH PARTRIDGE, AND NAMED AC- 
CORDINGLY. 

fICALLILI Cut the following vegetables rather 
fine, crush the garlic, then add, pack all into 
stone crocks and cover with slightly salted 
water, and stand in a cool place for one day 
and night, then drain on sieve and press with 
cloths till dry; then place back into the crocks, 
cover with the boiling vinegar and spices, her- 
metically seal on the crock covers while con- 
tents are at boiling heat 100 small cucumbers, 
3 small white cabbages, 18 small heads of cel- 
ery, 6 medium cauliflowers, 6 quarts of string- 
less beans, 9 each of medium sized green and 
red peppers, 4 cloves of garlic, 6 ozs. of mus- 
tard seed, 2 level teaspoonfuls each of ground 
allspice, mace and ginger, 2 heaping teaspoon- 



fuls of ground black pepper, enough cider vine- 
gar to well cover. 

PICKLES When making any pickles from the 
receipts given under their respective headings, 
always use the best cider vinegar, scald to boil- 
ing point but do not let it boil, prepare always 
in either granite or porcelain lined kettles, use 
wooden spoons or paddles. A piece of horse- 
radish root in the jars will prevent the vinegar 
from becoming moldy. They should always be 
kept in stone or glass, and in a dry dark place. 

PICKLE Aromatic salt pickle (German) Take 
seven and half gallons of water, one pound of 
Indian cane sugar, half pound of pulverized 
cleaned saltpetre, three ounces of coriander 
seeds, half a dozen bay leaves, three cloves of 
garlic. Boil all for five minutes, let it cool, 
strain into brine tub through a fine strainer, 
throw away the refuse. This brine will keep 
all SUMMER, and can be used for every kind 
of meat. All meat from this pickle will have a 
fine red color and a pleasant taste. 

PICKLE PUMPS There is perhaps no process 
so important in the curing of meat as pumping. 
Meat is liable to very quick decomposition un- 
less it is immediately brought in contact with a 
preservative of some kind, such as salt, borax, 
etc. In ordinary course if these preservatives 
were laid on the surface of the meat, they 
would mingle with the meat juices, dissolve 
and percolate slowly through the tissues; but 
this process is slow and under many conditions 
of temperature, dangerous. Hence the neces- 
sity of an appliance which brings the preserva- 
atives at once into operation. The salt brine 
or pickle is filtered so that it runs clear, and is 
then injected by the pickle pump into the meat 
to be cured. 

PICKLING BEEF AND HAMS To 100 pounds 
of beef or hams, use 7 pounds of rock salt, 5 
pounds of brown sugar, 2 ounces of saltpetre, 
half an ounce of salaratus, mix together and 
boil in four gallons of water, skim while boil- 
ing and pour on to the meat hot. For hams to 
cure well, they should remain in the pickle for 
six weeks. 

PIG PRODUCTS Under the name of fresh 
pork is comprised generally all the lean and 
fresh parts of the pig destined to be roasted or 
broiled, particularly the cutlets, the loin and 
small fillet. The loin is the fleshy part between 
the cutlets and the ham; it furnishes an excel- 
lent roast. The "filet mignon" as the French 
call it, is the long and narrow fleshy part under 
the kidney along the dorsal spine known to us 
as the pork tenderloin. It is the most delicate 
morsel of pork and weighs from half to a pound 
in weight. 

HAMS Nearly always entire hams are salted 
(cured); sometimes they are used for cooking 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



13* 



after several days coring; sometimes for smok- collared brawn, etc. The tongue can also be 
ing or preserving a longer or shorter time; used for converting into savory tongue. 
sometimes they are boned and used for the PIGS FEET-The handling of which, so as to 



manufacture of different kinds of sausages. 
SHOULDERS These are used to make rolled 

or boned hams; sometimes they are cured and 

smoked, and are then called fore hams or Cali- 
fornia hams; most often they are used for the 

manufacture of sausages. 
CAUL The caul is mostly used for wrapping 

around different stuffed pieces such as truffled 

feet, stuffed cutlets, flat sausages, broiled liv- 
ers, etc. 
FRESH LARD-BACK FAT-LARDING PORK 

^Fresh lard or back fat. The fat between the 

skin and the flesh is called fresh lard or simply 

lard. There are two kinds, melting fat and 

hard fat; the first, or that nearest the flesh, is SKIN The skin of the pig can be easily tanned. 

easily known by the touch; it yields to a mod- It furnishes a leather superior to that of the ox. 

erate pressure of the fingers, and is used for 

making lard. The other, or hard fat, adheres 

to the skin and is not easy to melt; it is used 

for larding and in the preparation of a great 

number of products in the pork butchers' trade. 
KIDNEY FAT --Is the fat that covers the 

kidney and tenderloin; it is used for fine force- 
meats and in black puddings, to which it gives 

a delicate taste. From this fat also is obtained 

a very fine white lard superior to ordinary 

melted lard. 

GUT FAT The fat that adheres to the intes- 
tines. If melted alone, lard of second quality 
is produced; more often it is melted with other 
lard so as to produce lard of ordinary quality. 

LUNGS, LIVER, HEART, KIDNEYS, BRAIN, 
SPLEEN The lungs and liver form part of 
the ingredients of various kinds of sausages, BONES The bones are used in the making of 



produce a profitable return requires scientific 
method and absolute cleanliness. The feet 
should be used fresh as cut from the pig. The 
front feet are always used first as they are the 
best for turning into edible delicacies, and the 
hind feet contain more bone. The toes are 
pulled off and the hair clean shaved; the feet 
should then be well washed and scraped, tak- 
ing care not to cut them, as this causes them to 
break when cooking; after cleaning, fresh water 
should be kept running on them until they are 
to be cooked. The constantly changing of the 
water removes the blood and makes them more 
inviting and whiter when cooked. 



It forms an important element in the making 
of jellies. Skin left on salt meat preserves it 
from the ravages of insects, and from the 
effects produced by the air. 

BLOOD The blood of the pig is very valuable 
for the manufacture of blood puddings. It is 
used in cooking to thicken sauces; and it clari- 
fies jellies and gives them a beautiful golden 
tint. 

HAIR The hair or bristles are used extensively 
in brush making. The bristles en the back 
serve as needles for hand sewn boot and shoe 
manufacturers. 

HOOFS Pulverized hoofs make a very rich 
manure. They are also used in the manufac- 
ture of glue and Prussian blue. 



liver pates, broiled and fried liver, etc. The 
heart, kidneys and brain are prepared by the 
culinary processes which are used for other 
similar pieces of butchers' meat. The spleen 
is generally used in sausages of an inferior 
quality. 



soups and jellies. After being cooked they 
may be pulverised and used for manure. 
BLADDERS The bladders after being well 
washed, blown and dried, are used for wrapping 
round sausages, and for filling with lard, also 
for hermetically sealing pots of preserves. 



STOMACH Comprises the small intestines, the GALL The liquid contained in the gall bladder 

coecum, the colon and the rectum. The small is very good for taking out grease stains with- 
intestine is used as a casing for different kinds 
of sausages, black pudding (boudin noir) etc. 



The coecum, called also the bag or pocket, is 



out taking out the color of even the most deli- 
cate stuffs. Hence the products of the pig are, 
taken together, of immense value. 



used, as also the colon and the rectum and fat BRINE FO R HAM, PICKLES, ETC. Before 

j r~ *i i _* j? 



end for the packing of different sausages to 
keep, and for the making of stuffed chitterlings. 
The stomach or paunch requires long cooking, 
after which it is used in common sausages and 
chitterlings. 

TONGUE, EARS, SNOUT, FEET, HAMS AND 
TAIL All these different pieces can be cooked 
alone, or with vegetables without any special 
preparation being necessary. Very often they 
are put for some days in a brine. The tongue, 
ears and snout are used also for head cheese, 



proceeding with the subject of pork I will draw 
the "hotel butcher's" attention to the subject 
of his pickling, and as in some parts of the 
country the hotel keepers raise their own pigs 
and desire their cooks to use up every part of 
it to advantage I will give the receipts of ham 
pickles. 

Many butchers prepare their brines in a way 
as simple as it is DEFECTIVE. They are con- 
tent to dissolve a certain quantity of salt and 
saltpetre in cold water. THIS BRINE DOES 



132 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



NOT PRESERVE, and must not be used for 
delicate meats. 

Put into a boiler and let boil for ten minutes 
6 gallons of water, 21 pounds of salt, 6 pounds 
of sugar, 2 pounds of saltpetre, stir well during 
cooking, then empty out the brine and all that 
remains undissolved, allow to become quite 
cold, then add a quarter of a pound of mixed 
whole spices; rub the meat with powdered 
saltpetre and salt, place in the brine tub, pour 
over the brine. This brine is excellent and 
can be used for all kinds of meat, and notably 
for meat where special brines are not indicated. 

Boil as in the preceding 5 gallons of water, 8 
pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of gray salt, 2^ 
pounds of sugar, 2> pounds of saltpetre; allow 
to cool, flavor with % pound of whole spices. 

Boil and cool as above 10 gallons of water, 
50 pounds of white salt, 4 pounds of gray salt, 
4% pounds of saltpetre, 5 pounds of sugar, 
flavor with ^ pound of spices. 

In some Italian provinces an excellent brine 
is prepared, composed of 1% gallons each of 
Barola wine and water, 8 pounds of white salt, 
% pound of gray salt, % pound of saltpetre, 
flavored with thyme, bay leaves, basil, savory, 
and juniper. 

In Westphalia the hams are pickled with a 
brine made with, 2> gallons of water, 8 pounds 



immediate contact with the salt are impreg- 
nated too strongly. 

This difference in result is easily explained 
through the action of the salt. In both methods 
this condiment clears out the aqueous portions 
of the blood in the tissues and thus preserves 
the meat from taint. With dry salting it is 
pure salt which saturates the meats. In the 
wet process the brine, which acts like salt, be- 
ing a solution of it, impregnates in a much less 
degree the flesh, as it is so much weaker being 
in solution. If the wet process is used, noth- 
ing must be done until after the meats are 
thoroughly chilled, which is not often complete 
(according to temperature) before twelve to 
eighteen hours. If this precaution is neglected, 
and the warm meats were heaped into a brine 
tub, not only would they become unshapely, but 
they would become hot and ferment, the inevi- 
table consequence of which would be their cor- 
ruption and that of the brine. 

With the dry process the meats can be salted 
immediately after slaughter, which is favor- 
able to the success of the operation. In fact, 
it is known by the reason of its chemical com- 
position, meat tends to decomposition as soon 
as the animal ceases to live, and it is therefore 
apparent that the less advanced is the tainting, 
the greater is the success of the salting. 



of salt, 2 pounds of sugar, */ 2 pound of salt- PICKLING OF ROLLED HAMS Choose hams 



petre, 2 ounces of spices tied in a muslin bag. 

For Bayonne hams, the following brine is 
used, \ l /i gallons each of good red wine and 
cold water, 8 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of 
gray salt, 2 ounces of saltpetre, and a flavoring 
of sage, rosemary and lavender. 

There are two principal processes for salting 
meats: the wet process and the dry. Both 



that are not very fat, bone and trim them, 
pickle in brine for two weeks, wash in fresh 
water for an hour or so, brush the hams, beat 
with a mallet so as to make them round and 
uniform, tie with string, dry them in the air, 
then smoke them. When these hams are dry 
they can be served raw, but usually they are 
served cooked. 



have their merits, and their combined use of- FORE HAMS OR CALIFORNIA SHOULDERS 



fers advantages. THE WET PROCESS con- 
sists in steeping meats in a brine for some time, 
according to the thickness of the pieces of 
meats; it is carried out by the big packing com- 
panies, where the system of curing has reached 



Trim the shoulders, cut them round, put 
through the dry process (as above) for three 
days, then through the wet process for ten 
days, take out of the brine, wash, scrub, dry, 
smoke, and finish like ordinary hams. 



most perfect condition. THE DRY PRO- PICKLING OF OX TONGUES Cut away the 



CESS: place the meats on the salting table, 
powder them with fine saltpetre, rub well into 
the meat, rub afterwards? with gray salt (sea 
salt). Arrange them one beside the other in 
such a way that they will not get out of shape, 
then cover evenly with white salt; this opera- 
tion is renewed every two or three days until 
the salt has been well soaked into the inside of 
the flesh, a result which is obtained in from one 
to four weeks, according to the size of the 
pieces. This process is generally carried on 
by salt meat exporters. 

By the wet process the necessary salt flavor 
is obtained, inasmuch as they are immersed in 
brine more or less salted. With the dry pro- 
cess, on the contrary, the meats coming into 



dead flesh, the gristle, and the fat which is 
found at the root. Make on each side of the 
root slight incisions to facilitate the salting. 
Wash the tongues in running water, brushing 
them well, dry with a cloth, rub them with 
saltpetre, then with a mixture of 9 parts salt 
and i part sugar, and put them in a good brine 
for 12 days. Ox tongues, like those of pigs, 
calves and sheep, have on their thick side a 
slimy liquid, which easily taints the brine. 
This is why it is important to well wash and 
dry them before putting into the brine. 
For the same reason tongues should always be 
pickled alone in a special brine tub in which 
only the necessary quantity of brine should be 
put. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



133 



PIGS HEAD STUFFED More often called 
"Boars Head (glazed)". Select a perfect head 
with good ears; the head must be cut off full, 
that is with two or three joints of the neck bone 
left on; carefully bone it; the head is then well 
washed in cold water to remove all blood, and 
put into a spiced pickle for six days; it is then 
well washed and stuffed tightly with pork sau- 
sage meat, a piece of rind being stitched on 
Dack of head to keep the stuffing in. The head 
is then placed on a thin board and another 
piece placed alongside each cheek and tied in 
position to keep head in shape; the whole is 
now tied up in a cloth, and cooked gently, so as 
not to break the ears, but long enough to cook 
thoroughly; allow to cool, taking care to place 
in position, so that it cools to a good shape with 
ears erect; when cool insert glass eyes, and, if 
available, a pair of tusks, then glaze and dec- 
orate. 

PIGEONS The young ones called squabs, are 
best split down the back, breastbone removed, 
trussed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in melted butter, broiled; served on toast 
with maitie d'hotel or piquante sauces. 

ROAST PIGEON Young birds plucked, singed, 
drawn, wiped, trussed with bacon over the 
breast, roasted; served with their own gravy, 
garnish with cress. 

BREASTS OF PIGEON Breasts of young birds, 
seasoned, breaded, and broiled, or fried; or 
coated with sauce then breaded and fried; 
or the breasts saute^d then breaded and fried; 
served with any garnish appropriate to dark 
fleshed birds or game. 

STEWED PIGEON WITH MUSHROOMS 
Separated into four joints, sautee'd with butter, 
taken up into a sautoir to which is added little 
lean ham, button mushrooms sautee'd, bunch of 
pot herbs, seasoning, little red wine and stock, 
the whole simmered till tender; served with the 
mushrooms as a border. 

PIGEON PIE Into a deep pie dish place on the 
bottom some thin slices of beef, then halves of 
young pigeons, slices of bacon, some forcemeat 
balls, mushrooms, and yolks of hard boiled 
eggs, little chopped parsley, moisten with sea- 
soned gravy, cover with a short paste, brush 
the top with egg wash, and bake gently till 
done, about an hour and a half. 

POTTED PIGEON-Young birds plucked, singed, 
drawn, wiped, stuffed with a mixture of grated 
bread, chopped parsley, chopped suet, grated 
hard boiled egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
trussed, placed into a crock with celery, thyme, 
parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, glass of 
Madeira and a little stock, cover, place in oven, 
and cook gently till tender; served with the 
strained gravy, garnished with cress and lemon. 

COMPOTE OF PIGEON Practically the same 



as above, generally garnished with sautee'd 
button mushrooms. 

PIGEON CROUSTADE Young birds prepared 
and trussed, arranged in a sautoir with slices 
of bacon, moistened with chicken broth, stewed 
till tender, taken up and placed in a toasted 
fancy bread croflstade; served with financiere 
garnish poured around. 

CURRIED PIGEONS Small young birds, one 
to the portion, prepared and trussed, placed in 
oven with bacon fat and quickly browned and 
basted, taken up into a curry sauce made of 
chicken and game stock, to which is added a 

grated green apple, simmered till tender; 
served garnished with timbales of rice or ris- 
soto. 

CURRIED PIGEONS WITH RICE Split the 
birds in halves, take out the breast bone, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, roll them in curry 
powder and then in flour, mince some onions 
and a clove of ga rlic, fry them without much 
color in oil of butter, take up the onions; then 
fry the pigeons, moisten with stock, return the 
onions, add a grated sour apple, also a spoonful 
each of tamarinds and Bengal chutney with a 
little preserved ginger, simmer slowly till done, 
take up the birds, skim off any grease from the 
curry, strain it over the birds; make a border of 
dry boiled rice around the serving dish, place 
two halves of birds in the centre with some of 
the sauce poured over them. 

STUFFED PIGEON WITH POTATOES-Draw 
the bird as for roast, take out the breast bone, 
stuff with a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley, 
its own liver and heart minced with a little 
bacon, grated lemon rind, salt and pepper. Ar- 
range them in a sautoir, cover with stock and 
simmer slowly till tender. Make a mound of 
mashed potatoes on the serving dish, place a 
pigeon on top, pour over some of the gravy 
made from the stock the birds were simmered 
in. 

STUFFED PIGEON WITH VEGETABLES 
Prepare the birds and cook as in the preceding 
recipe; when tender, take up the birds, then 
boil some Julienne cut vegetables in the stock 
the birds were simmered in, season, place the 
bird on a slice of toast, pour the gravy over it, 
and garnish with the drained vegetables. 

LARDED PIGEONS, GARNISHED Lard the 
breast of the birds with bacon, arrange them 
in a sautoir, moisten with chicken stock and 
simmer till tender, take up, reduce the gravy to 
a glaze, roll the birds in it, and serve each one 
on a fancy croustade, pour over a little finan- 
ciere sauce, and garnish the base with a ragout 
of truffles, mushrooms, cocks combs and que- 
nelles of chicken. 

SALMIS OF PIGEONS Take cold cooked birds, 
split in halves, arrange in a sautoir, moisten 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



with a game sauce, add a glass of sherry wine, 
serve the birds on a fancy crouton, pour over 
a little of the sauce and garnish with stoned 
olives. 

BRAISED PIGEON WITH FLAGEOLETS 
Prepare and stuff the birds as for "Stuffed 
pigeons with potatoes," braise them slowly till 
tender, take up, add a good brown sauce to the 
contents of the brasiere, reduce, then strain it 
over the pigeons; serve the bird on toast with a 
spoonful of the sauce poured over; garnish with 
some flageolets that have been saute'ed in butter. 

FRICASSEE OF PIGEONS Draw the birds as 
for roasting, take out the breast bone, stuff the 
aperture with a veal forcemeat, tie up, blanch, 
arrange in a sautoir, cover with a Veloute" 
sauce, put on the cover and simmer slowly till 
tender; serve with green peas, and a fancy 
crouton at each end of the dish. 

BRAISED PIGEON, GARNISHED Braise the 
birds till tender, split them in halves, arrange 
neatly on toast, pour over some of the strained 
and skimmed braise, garnish with stoned olives, 
button mushrooms, small quenelles, olive 
shaped pieces of carrot and turnip that have 
all been simmered in chicken or veal stock till 
done. 

ROAST PIGEON WITH TOMATOES Take 
young birds and stuff them with breadcrumbs 
seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, minced 
parsley and onions parboiled in broth, add an 
egg to bind, cover the breasts with broad thin 
slices of bacon, roast, take up, add to the pan 
they were roasted in some Espagnole sauce, 
and a seasoning of Worcestershire sauce, boil 
op and strain, then add to it a little tarragon 
vinegar and chopped parsley; serve a spoonful 
over each bird, and garnish with saute'ed toma- 
toes. 

SAUTE OF PIGEON Split the birds down the 
back, remove the breast bone, flatten with the 
cleaver, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, fry in butter* when done, take up and add 
flour to the butter they were fried in, moisten 
with stock, boil up and strain over the birds, 
add some chopped estragon leaves and a spoon- 
ful of tarragon vinegar, simmer a little while, 
then serve. 

SQUABS, SAUCE CRAPAUDINE Draw the 
birds as for roasting, then without detaching 
the parts, cut the breast from the tip to the 
wing joint, turn the two ends so as to look like 
a frog, flatten with a blow of the cleaver, dip 
in melted butter, then in fresh grated bread- 
crumbs, broil slowly till done; serve with sauce 
crapaudine. 

BROILED PLOVER ON TOAST Wipe the 
birds but do not draw them, broil over a clear 
fire, basting often with butter; serve on toast, 



garnish with a croflton spread with currant 
jelly. 

ROAST PLOVER Wipe the birds but do not 
draw them, spread a thin piece of fat bacon 
over the breast, roast quickly till done; serve 
on a fancy crodstade with a little game sauce 
poured over. 

BREAST OF PLOVER, EN SALMI Wipe but 
do not draw the birds, roast, take off the breasts 
and simmer them in a game sauce containing 
minced mushrooms, take the trail of the birds, 
spread it on fancy croutons; serve the breasts 
on a Duchesse potato, pour the sauce around, 
and garnish with the crofi tons. 

BREASTS OF PLOVER WITH SWEET- 
BREADS Roast the birds, then remove the 
breasts and place them in a sautoir with a lit- 
tle demi-glaze and some stoned olives. Take 
small sweetbreads lard and braise them; serve 
one of each with the sauce poured over them. 

PINTAIL Name of one of our common wild 
ducks, is good stuffed and roasted, and in a 
salmi. 

PIQUANTE Name of a sauce made with an 
equal number of chopped shallots and green 
gherkins, boiled till shallots are done in caper 
vinegar, then is added some capers, bay leaf 
and a few sprigs of thyme, boiled again till vin- 
egar is reduced to one third of its original vol- 
ume; remove the bay leaf and thyme, add 
enough good Espagnole sauce and a little 
chicken broth, till of the proper sauce consist- 
ency. 

PISTACHIO Name of a pea green nut of al- 
mond flavor, used by pastry cooks and confec- 
tioners. 

PLUMS As there are so many varieties grown, 
and all good for dessert, compotes, etc., I will 
simply here append a few ways of taking care 
of them when they are to be had very cheap. 

PLUM MARMALADE Rub the plums but do 
not pare them, cut in halves and remove the 
stones, weigh them, and allow half a pound of 
sugar to each pound of fruit. Put the fruit in- 
to a preserving kettle, add sufficient "water to 
cover the bottom, cover, and bring slowly to 
the boiling point, then stir and mash the fruit 
until fine, add then the sugar and some of the 
kernels blanched and minced, boil and stir 
continually for fifteen minutes, then draw to 
one side and allow to simmer for twenty min- 
utes more; pack away in stone crocks. 

PLUM BUTTER Select mellow fruit, peel and 
remove stones, weigh the fruit then, and to each 
pound allow three quarters of a pound of sugar, 
place the fruit in preserving kettle, heat slowly 
to boiling point, then mash till smooth, then 
rub through a fine sieve into another kettle; 
add the sugar and boil for fifteen minutes, stir- 
ring continually; pack away in small jars. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



135 



PLUM JELLY Take common blue plums, wash 
in cold water, place in preserving kettle, adding 
two quarts of water to each bushel of fruit, 
cover the kettle and heat slowly until the fruit 
is soft and tender, then turn into flannel jelly 
bag and let drip till fruit is dry. To every pint 
of this juice allow one pound of granulated 
sugar, put the juice into preserving kettle and 
bring it quickly to the boil, add then the sugar 
and stir till dissolved, then boil rapidly till it 
jellies, about twenty-five minutes; remove scum 
as it rises; as soon as it jellies, take jelly tum- 
blers, roll them in boiling water, fill with the 
boiling liquid, stand aside for 24 hours, then 
screw on the covers. 

PLUM PUDDING As each and every pastry 
cook has his own favorite recipe for this dish, 
which is usually associated with Christmas, I 
will simply append one that has always given 
satisfaction to the best of critics: 

Pound and a half of raisins stoned and freed 
from stalks. . . Pound and a half of currants, 
rubbed and freed from stones. . . Pound mixed 
of citron, orange and lemon candied peels. . . 
Two and a half pounds of finely chopped beef 
suet. . . Two pounds of sifted flour. . . One and 
a half pounds of brown sugar freed from lumps 
. . . Eight eggs. . . One and a half pints of rich 
milk. . . The grated rind and juices of two lem- 
ons and two oranges. . . One ounce of mixed 
ground nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. . . Half 
a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix overnight before to be boiled in the 
morning; fill into molds or into a buttered and 
floured cloth; boil steadily for five hours; serve 
with hard and brandy sauces. 

PLUM CAKE The finest wedding cake as made 
by a late employer of mine: 

Pound and a half of sifted flour . . . Pound 
and a half of pure butter. . . Pound of powdered 
sugar. . . Pound of French cherries cut in 
halves (cerises glaces). . . Pound and a half of 
seeded raisins and cleaned currants (three- 
quarters of each). . . Half a pound each of 
shredded citron, orange and lemon candied 
peels. . . Half a pound of finely chopped al- 
monds. . . Eight whole eggs. . . Grated rind and 
juice of four oranges. . . Half an ounce of 
mixed ground cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. . . 
Half a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of 
salt. 

POMPANO A most delicious nutty flavored fish 
of the Southern waters, broiled whole, or', if 
large, filletted and broiled; served with maitre 
d'hotel sauce, or melted butter and Tartar 
sauce aside, garnished with lemon and fancy 
potatoes. . . Broiled fillets of Pompano served 
spread with Montpelier butter and garnished 
with Julienne potatoes. . . Filleted Pompano 
saute'ed with strps of bacon, served with it and 
fancy potatoes. . . Small Pompano fried a deli- 



cate brown with butter, butter oil then poured 
off into another pan, browned, then is added 
lemon juice and chopped parsley; served over 
the fish, garnished with Saratoga chips. 

PORGIE Name of a small fish plentiful in the 
Eastern States markets; served in every way 
applicable to perch. 

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET POTA- 
TOES Season the meat with salt, pepper and 
sage, roll in flour, then in melted roast pork 
drippings, arrange in baking pan with small 
whole, or halved, peeled sweet potatoes, bake 
till done with plenty of basting, about three- 
quarters of an hour; serve with gravy made in 
the pan they were cooked in. 

STUFFED PORK TENDERLOIN The meat 
split and stuffed with sage and onion dressing, 
tied with twine (which is afterwards removed), 
baked and served as the preceding. 

BROILED PORK TENDERLOIN Split, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and sage, rolled in 
flour, broiled well done, basting with butter; 
served with apple sauce, sauce Soubise or 
sauce Robert. 

BRAISED PORK TENDERLOIN Braised with 
vegetables and bacon; when done, the braise 
strained and skimmed, then added to a sauce 
Robert or Lyonnaise, the tenderloin dipped in 
the sauce, then laid on a neat centre of pure"e 
of sweet potatoes, little more of the sauce 
poured around the base. 

CURRIED PORK TENDERLOIN Take any 
unused tenderloins of the preceding receipt, 
cut them in neat scallops quarter inch thick, 
reheat them in a good curry sauce; served 
garnished with small glazed onions at the sides 
and a small mold of rice at the ends. 

CORNED PORK TENDERLOINS Use tender- 
loins that have been in a good brine for three 
days, wash, boil slowly for three-quarters of an 
hour, take up and drain, then split in halves, 
season with pepper and powdered sage, roll in 
flour, arrange in baking pan, bake a delicate 
brown, basting with sausage drippings, serve 
garnished with Julienne vegetables in a cream 
sauce. 

ROAST LOIN OF PORK With a boning knife 
separate the joints on the chine bone of the 
loin of pork (better than chopping it), season 
with salt, pepper and sage, score the rind, ar- 
range on a meat rest in baking pan, with sage 
and onion dressing under the meat, bake in a 
medium oven well done and brown; serve in 
chops on a spoonful of the dressing, gravy at 
the sides, and apple sauce served in a separate 
dish; also roasted without dressing, and served 
with Remoulade sauce. 

ROAST LEG OF PORK Legs 10 to 12 pounds 
in weight are of best quality and most eco- 
nomical. Remove the foot, score the rinds in- 



136 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



to dice shape, roast in a medium oven well 
done two and a half to three hours; serve with 
sage and onion dressing, gravy, and apple 
sauce separate; or with tomato sauce, or Rob- 
ert, or Piquante sauce, or with baked apples. 

STUFFED LEG OF PORK For serving cold. 
Lay the leg on table skin side down, remove 
the aitchbone, then cut along the leg bone to 
the knuckle joint, remove the leg bone leaving the 
knuckle bone in, fill the cavity with a stuffing 
composed of fresh mashed potatoes, minced and 
saute'ed onion, salt, pepper, sage, pork sausage 
meat and one whole egg to each leg of pork, 
draw the meat together close, tie tightly, score 
the rind, bake slowly with a few apples in the 
pan, till done, basting with the apple juice and 
gravy; then take up and allow to get thoroughly 
cold; serve for luncheon or supper, in slices 
garnished either with small pickled onions, 
sliced gherkins, Tartar sauce, Remoulade 
sauce, pure'e of cranberries or pure"e of apples. 
After you have got the guests (especially in a 
family hotel) to try this dish, you will have to 
keep two or three on hand all the time to keep 
up the demand. 

BONED BOILED SALT LEG OF PORK For 
serving cold. Use a 12 pound leg, get it fresh, 
remove the foot, rub with salt, wash it, pump 
it with brine; then lay it in brine for four days, 
take up, drain, remove the bones as in the pre- 
ceding recipe, draw the meat together, letting 
the thin side come right over the thick, tie 
tightly with twine, put to boil in cold water 
with a few bay leaves and an onion stuck with 
cloves, boil slowly for one hour and a quarter, 
then allow it to become thoroughly cold in the 
water it was boiled in; serve in slices with a 
garnish of horseradish mustard and a few 
pickles, or sliced tomatoes with Tartar sauce, 
or German potato salad. 

COLD ROLLED BELLY OF PORK(STUFFED 
OLIVES) Nice lean bellies of pickled pork, 
may be boned, rolled, tied, then wrapped in a 
cloth and tied again like a roly poly pudding, 
boiled till tender, taken up and allowed to be- 
come cold in the cloth it was boiled in, the 
cloth then removed, the pork wiped with a hot 
wet cloth; served in slices garnished as above. 

BROILED PORK CHOPS Remove the rind, 
cut the chops to an even thickness, trim off any 
superfluous fat, season with salt and pepper, 
roll in butter then in breadcrumbs and broil a 
golden brown, or broil them plain, and serve 
plain or with apple sauce, or with Robert, Tar- 
tare, Anchovy, Curry, Bretonne, Soubise or 
Lyonnaise sauces, or serve plain and garnished 
with fried sweet potatoes or fried apples. 

FRIED PORK CHOPS Remove the rind or 
leave it on (some like it on), season with salt 
and pepper, roll in flour, fry with pork fat a 



golden brown; serve plain or with tomato, 
Robert, Piquante, Curry, Soubise or sage 
sauces, or with fried apples. 

PORK CHOPS SAUTEES-Trim the chops, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, fry them a golden 
brcwn with butter. Make a stiff puree of split 
peas, place a heaping spoonful in centre of 
dish, place chop on it, and pour a little gher- 
kin sauce over. 

PORK CROQUETTES, ANCHOVY SAUCE 
Make the pork croquette mixture from cold 
roast pork trimmings, season it with a little 
sage, adding to stiffen it some pork sausage 
meat; serve with a brown thick roast pork gravy 
flavored with anchovy essence. 

EMENCE OF PORK WITH FRIED APPLES 
Take the lean of cold roast leg of pork and 
cut in circular slices size of half dollars, dust 
them with salt, pepper and powdered sage, re- 
heat them in sauce Robert; serve on toast; 
garnished with slices of fried apples. 

SALT PORK WITH PARSNIPS Lean pickled 
belly of pork, boil it with whole parsnips for 
half an hour, take up and drain, then slice the 
pork and quarter the parsnips, now fry the pork 
a golden brown, then the parsnips in the pork 
fat; serve two slices of each. 

MINCED PORK WITH FRIED APPLES 
Lean minced fresh pork three parts; white 
bread soaked in milk, then squeezed dry one 
part; season with salt, pepper and powdered 
sage, add a few beaten eggs, mix all thoroughly; 
place it in a buttered baking pan, cover with a 
sheet of buttered paper and bake in a medium 
oven for an hour and a half, cut out in squares 
or diamond shape when done and served with 
fried apples. 

FRIED SALT PORK WITH APPLES- -Take 
the cold rolled belly of pork of a preceding 
recipe, slice it in quarter inch thicknesses, roll 
the slices in corn meal. Take sour cooking 
apples, core them, slice in half inch thick- 
nesses, then arrange the pork and apples alter- 
nately in a baking pan, brown off of an even 
color in a quick oven and serve. 

FRIED PORK KIDNEYS Take the kidneys 
and split them, remove the white centres, soak 
them in salted water containing a little vinegar 
for an hour; then wipe dry, season with salt, 
pepper and powdered sage, roll in flour, fry a 
golden brown with butter; serve on toast, garn- 
ish with Brussels sprouts and pour over the 
kidneys a spoonful of maitre d'hotel butter. 

PORK SAUSAGES These may be made in var- 
ious ways according to the price per day or 
meal of the hotel or restaurant. They are 
rarely made of the pure meat, as when so made 
they are too rich and unpalateable. If, how- 
ever, a large proportion of the meat used be 
lean the richness will to a great extent disap- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



137 



pear. It is in all cases, however, advisable to CERVELATPOLSE OR DANISH BEEF AND 



have present some cracker meal, bread or gran- 
ulated rice, even if added only in small quanti- 
ties, as by that means only, FIRMNESS can 
be obtained. The hotel butcher or cook should 
make all the sausages used for every purpose, 
and not have them purchased from the meat pur- 
veyor. In the case of the sausages that are 
smoked, etc., and served as a relish, that part 
of it can be always done by the people from 
whom your hams are purchased for a mere 
trifle. Further, it is my very firm convic- 
tion, that, the ordinary hotel butcher knows 
but little about sausage making. He should 
know! and I shall here devote several pages of 
this book to that teaching, with the hope that 
it will enable the hotel butcher to become of 
much more value to his employer, by economy, 
and also to become a man proper to use the 
title of butcher. Butchering is not merely cut- 
ting roasts, chops, steaks, hams, bacon, and do- 
ing general "garde mange" work; it consists of 



PORK SAUSAGE For this recipe, use 25 
pounds each of beef and pork, twelve and a 
half pounds of pork fat cut in small dice, one 
and a half pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered 
saltpetre, 50 gram, ground white pepper, 50 
gram, powdered sugar, 13 gram, each of ground 
ginger and nutmeg. Remove all sinews, then 
chop the beef and pork together quite fine, 
adding the seasonings towards the finish, then 
add the diced fat and thoroughly mix. When 
mixed placed into the filler and fill TIGHTLY 
into beef casings, tying into i8-inch lengths; 
hang in the air for 24 hours, then smoke in 
very warm smoke till the skins are brown; then 
boil them until the sausage is as elastic as an 
indiarubber ball and will bounce if dropped on 
the table. This is a sure proof that the saus- 
age is thoroughly cooked. When done, dry 
them and glaze the skins. Serve as in the first 
recipe, in slices, as an appetizer or Hors 
d'oeuvre. 



a knowledge of what to do with meat in its KNOCKPOLSE OR HARD SMOKED DANISH 



every use, and how to utilize every particle to 
advantage, hence, as you have read so far in 
this book, I have been profuse in explanations 
of the uses of meat and how to properly take 
care of it; as the BUTCHER'S BILL is al- 
ways the heaviest one for the proprietor to 
meet for the back part of the house. 
DANISH SMOKED SAUSAGE The following 
recipes have been obtained from the largest and 
best sausage factory of Copenhagen, Denmark. 
For this recipe, use 25 pounds each of lean 
beef and pork, 12 pounds of fat cut fine and 8 
pounds of fat cut into small dice, two and a 
half pounds of salt. 30 gram, powdered salt- 
petre, 70 gram, powdered sugar, 85 gram, 
ground white pepper. Remove all sinews, then 
chop the beef and pork together; when about 



SAUSAGE For this recipe, use 21 pounds of 
beef, 12 pounds each of veal and pork and 5 
pounds of pork fat cut into small dice, one and 
a quarter pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered 
saltpetreris gram, ground nutmeg, 20 gram, 
each of ground cinnamon and ginger, 60 gram, 
ground white pepper, 4 garlic cloves and 4 
small shallots finely grated. First chop beef 
and veal together half fine, then add the pork 
and finish chopping till fine, adding the season- 
ings towards the finish; then thoroughly work 
in the pork fat cut in small dice. Place the 
meat in the sausage filler and fill into hog cas- 
ings, tying in six inch lengths, meat NOT to be 
filled too tightly. When filled, hang to dry for 
a day and smoke in warm smoke. Boil for eat- 
ing hot or cold. 



half chopped, add the 12 pounds of fat and fin- WEINERPOLSE OR BAVARIAN SAUSAGE 



ish by chopping all fine, adding the seasonings 
toward the finish; then work in thoroughly the 
8 pounds of fat cut in small dice. When well 
mixed the whole mass should be packed tightly 
(n a wooden trough for 24 hours so as to allow 
the saltpeter to effect its color and also render 
the mass more firm. The meat is then placed 
into the sausage filler, and filled into beef cas- 
ings as TIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE. The tighter 
the skin is filled, the better the sausage will be 
for cutting when dried. When the casings aie 
filled, they should be laid in a pickling tub and 
lightly covered with coarse salt, place a board 
on top and let them remain till the salt has 
turned into pickle, then lift them out and hang 
in the air until ALL moisture has run off them. 
When dry, they should be smoked in cold 
smoke until they are a rich dark brown in color. 
The sausage is then ready for eating, and will 
keep for several months. Length, about eigh- 
teen inches. 



For this recipe, use 25 pounds of pork, 12 
pounds of veal, 12 pounds of pork fat, 20 
ounces of salt, 30 gram, powdered saltpetre, 30 
gram, ground coriander, 50 gram, powdered 
sugar, 60 gram, ground white pepper, 2 garlic 
cloves and 4 shallots grated fine. Use only the 
best meat and CAREFULLY remove all 
sinews. Mince the pork and veal together first, 
then mince the fat, then thoroughly mix all to- 
gether, adding the seasonings. Place into the 
sausage filler and fill into sheep or lamb cas- 
ings, tying into five inch links. Let them hang 
for 24 hours, then smoke in warm smoke until 
of a bright brown color; boil five to eight min- 
utes, when they are ready for the table. 
LEVERPOLSE OR LIVER SAUSAGE For 
this recipe, use i large pig's liver, 10 pounds of 
veal (from the neck), 10 pounds of belly of 
pork, 8 pounds of pork fat, 3 pounds of salt, 40 
gram, powdered thyme, 50 gram, each of 



138 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ground nutmeg and ginger, 60 gram, of pow- 
dered marjoram, 140 gram, ground white pep- 
per, 5 pounds of lean pork, 4 small onions in 
winter, NONE in summer, as they easily cause 
acidity. Remove sinews and gristle from the 
pork and veal, boil them and mince together. 
The fat to be cut into small dice, the liver to be 
skinned, and the thick veins removed and to be 
boiled in the boiling broth for five minutes; 
then chop it a little, add a little salt, and mince 
quite fine. Now throw the minced veal and 
pork, diced fat and liver into the mixer along 
with the five pounds of minced RAW lean pork, 
add the spices and a cupful of the fat and water 
from the broth and mix altogether thoroughly. 
Place the meat into the sausage filler and fill 
into hog casings NOT too tight, tying into 18- 
inch lengths. Then boil the sausages in boil- 
ing water 20 minutes, take up, wash them and 
lay them on a table to cool. They are then 
ready for the table, cut in slices cold. Are also 
used fried in slices warm. This sausage can 
be smoked in cold smoke in winter, and keeps 
well. 

LEVERPOSTEJ.LIVERWURST OR DANISH 
LIVER SAUSAGE 10 pounds of pigs' flare, 
3 or 4 pig's livers according to size, 4 to 5 
pounds of minced lean pork, 10 eggs, 6 to 12 
anchovies according to size. Add pepper, salt, 
nutmeg and cinnamon to season according to 
taste. Fill into beef casings, boil two hours. 
These are well liked by most people. 

BEEF SAUSAGES A good article for the 
"help's hall". Take 20 pounds of flank of 
beef freed from skin and bones, cut it up into 
inch pieces and mix thoroughly into it 10 
ounces of salt, 4 ounces of pepper, half an 
ounce of ground nutmeg, and 2 ounces of 
robbed sage, then mince through the machine; 
meanwhile soak 4 loaves of bread (eight pounds) 
squeeze it dry and amalgamate with the meat, 
then add DRY, three pounds of sifted cracker 
meal; then place the whole into the sausage 
filler and fill into sheep casings, link them; 
then separate the links, arrange in baking pan, 
and bake till done and brown, about 15 min- 
utes. 

BLOOD SAUSAGE Use cheek meat, heart, 
lungs, and pork rinds in any quantity that is 
convenient. Cut the pork rinds into small 
pieces, boil in clean water until three parts 
cooked, saving the broth and the rinds. Cut 
the balance of the meat together quite fine, 
and boil it slowly with the pork rinds and 
broth, allowing the broth to cover the meat. 
Remove the fat that comes to the surface, cook 
until it is well done. Take one gallon of calf's 
or pig's fresh blood immediately after killing. 
Stir it in a vessel 10 to 15 minutes until it will 
retain its fluid condition. Then pass through 



a fine sieve to break up any lumps. Mix 15 
pounds of the cooked meat as above with one 
gallon of blood and season to taste. Pour 
through a funnel into beef middle casings, fill- 
ing three parts full, the end being tied. Tie 
the open end, and place the sausage in the 
broth and allow it to boil. The blood, in cook- 
ing, will expand and fill out the remaining part 
of the casing. Stir continually, or the blood 
will all collect in the lower side of the casing. 
When cooked, the sausage will rise to the sur- 
face, owing to the expansion of the air. Where 
ever air collects, pierce with a fork or fat will 
fill these places. When of a good appearance, 
remove and wash in clean cold water and allow 
it to remain there till cold. The sausage may 
be improved by smoking cold over a low fire of 
shavings and sawdust. A hot fire will cause it 
to sweat and spoil its appearance. 

BLOOD SAUSAGE (NORTH GERMANY) 
Boil iaJt pork till not quite cooked and then cut 
it into small dice. To every 10 pounds boil 2 
pounds of well dried pork rinds, and a calf's or 
pig's lungs, or, instead of that, a corresponding 
quantity of pork trimmings. When these are 
boiled tender, put the rinds and lungs or trim- 
mings through the mincing machine, scald the 
pork dice, and add enough well beaten pig's 
blood to make the whole moderately liquid, 
then get the exact weight (reckon 12 pounds to 
the gallon). To every gallon add 6 ounces of 
salt, i ounce of white pepper, % ounce each 
of ground cloves and marjoram. Stir all well 
together and fill into casings. Boil about an 
hour and a half until no blood oozes out on the 
sausages being pricked. On coming out of the 
boiler, wash in warm water, and lay on a table 
to cool, and afterwards smoke for a few days 
in cold smoke. (To every 10 pounds of sausage 
meat, reckon about one and a half pounds of 
blood). 

BLOOD SAUSAGE (FRENCH) Take equal 
quantities of lean and fat pork and boil it till 
tender; then cut the fat into small dice and the 
lean meat into small pieces. Meanwhile have 
some onions, leeks and shallots steamed soft, 
added to the above meat. To every 10 pounds 
of this sausage meat add 2 pounds of pig's 
blood, 5 ounces of salt, ^ ounce of white pep- 
per and one tenth of an ounce each of ground 
mace and thyme. Stir all well together and fill 
into narrow hog casings. Boil until no blood 
exudes on being pricked. Then remove and 
wash in warm water, and let cool on a table. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE Use lean fresh meat, 
trimmings and cheek meat. Chop together 
very fine; while chopping add spices and sea- 
soning, and from 25 to 30 ounces of salt to 
every 100 pounds of meat. To every 100 
pounds of beef add 5 pounds of pure fat, either 
fresh or salted pork. When the beef is nearly 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



139 



chopped add from one to one and a half pounds 
of farina and sufficient water to suit; mix 
thoroughly. Stuff into beef middle casings. 
Tie the ends together into rings 24 inches long. MO SAIC SAUSAGE Take an 18 pound leg of 



out pricking them, then take them up into cold 
running water, letting the water run till they 
are cold and firm. 



Smoke with hickory wood and hickory sawdust, 
remove when well colored, cook in boiling 
water. When the bologna is sufficiently cooked 
it will rise to the top. Pepper and coriander 
are the spices used for bolognas. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE (ITALIAN) Take 27 
pounds each of raw lean pork, cooked pickled 
pork and raw veal, 5 pounds of anchovies finely 
chopped together. Then add 14 pounds of raw 
fat pork cut in small dice; season with 18 
ounces of salt, n ounces of white pepper, 4 
ounces of ground caper, 21 ounces of peeled 
pistachio nuts cooked in wine. After carefully 
mixing the meat and spices, distribute amongst 
it six pickled and cooked tongues cut in slices. 
Then fill into beef middle casings or bungs. 
Wrap each sausage in a clean cloth, tie round 
with twine, then boil one hour, take up, lay 
them out in a cool place for 24 hours, remove 
the cloth, wipe with a warm cloth, pour over 
them either colored or uncolored fat, then dec- 
orate. 

BRUNSWICK, CERVELAT SAUSAGE For 
every block of fifty pounds take 28 pounds of 
lean pork, 10 pounds of lean beef freed from 
sinews, 12 pounds of bacon fat cut in shreds, 2 
pounds of salt, 3 ounces of coarse ground white 



pork, bone it out and remove all skin and 
sinews, this will leave 15 pounds of meat; cut 
this up, put into a stone crock after first rub- 
bing into it 12 ounces of salt, i ounce of cane 
sugar, and y z an ounce of powdered saltpetre; 
put on the cover and allow to macerate for 24 
hours, then take it from the crock and mince it 
with 5 pounds of lean veal, adding during the 
mincing i ounce of white pepper, l /$ of an 
ounce each of mace and ginger and one-sixth of 
an ounce of cardamons. Then fill into skins 6 
inches thick and 8 inches long, three parts full. 
To make the mosaic work use long inch square 
pieces of red cooked tongue each wrapped 
neatly with a thin shred of bacon fat, also a 
column each of blood sausage, Frankfort sau- 
sage and liver sausage, each wrapped like 
the tongue. To insert these columns, take a 
stick a little thicker than the column, dip it in- 
to cold water, push it into the sausage, with- 
draw it, then slip in the mosaics at equal dis- 
tances, then tie the sausage, hang up in smoke 
for one hour, then boil very gently for an hour 
and three-quarters, then smoke again lightly. 
[N. B. Both while smoking and simmering, 
keep the sausage in an upright position so that 
the inlaying may be kept straight] . 



pepper, i ounce of powdered^ saltpetre, 2^ CAMBRIDGE S AUSAGE-This makes a nice 

breakfast sausage: Take 12 pounds of lean and 
6 pounds of fat pork, cut it into small pieces and 
rub well into it 9 ounces of prepared sausage 
seasoning, pass through the mincing machine, 
then mix into it 3 pounds of scalded rice, 2 
pounds of cracker meal. Place the whole then 
into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link up 
and use. 



ounces of powdered sugar. First mince the 

beef very fine, then add the pork and mince 

and mix the two together till the pork is about 

the size of peas; then add the pork fat which 

must be mixed until it shows amongst the rest 

in pieces the size of beans; then add the mixed 

spices and salt, mixing well. After a thorough 

mixing, place into the filler and stuff tightly in- 
to small middle beef gut casings. They must 

now be hung in a well ventilated room of 60 COBLENZ SAUSAGE-A good seller for restau- 

degrees temperature for two weeks until they rants: Take 10 pounds each of veal and pork cut 

it up and allow to macerate for 24 hours after 
being rubbed with 12 ounces of salt and y z an 
ounce of powdered saltpetre. First chop the 
veal very fine, then add the pork and chop all 
together, adding i ounce of white pepper, >$ of 
an ounce each of ground ginger and peppermint, 
three shallots and three cloves of garlic. Mince 
till the fat shows through the rest like pin heads, 
then add water as much as the meat will take, 
leaving it very stiff; place then into the filler, fill 
into sheep casings, link them up into 6 to the 



begin to look red under the skins; then smoke 
them in cold dry smoke until they take on a 
cherry red color; then keep in a well aired 
room for use or sale. 

SARDINE AND LIVER SAUSAGE For this 
recipe, use 8 pounds of pigs liver, 7 pounds of 
lean and 4 pouuds of fat fresh pork, 6 pounds 
of fresh bacon and ^ a pound of sardines, 12 
ounces of salt, i^ ounces of white pepper, ^ 
an ounce each of ground ginger and marjoram, 
and ^3 of an ounce of ground thyme. Cut the 
liver into strips, wash it, then blanch it; drain 
dry, then chop it. Boil the lean pork for half 
an hour, then chop with the liver; blanch the 
fat pork and add it with the bacon and season- 



pound; hang up for some hours to dry: then 
smoke with mixed sawdust at a temperature of 
100 Fahr, till they are a beautiful dark orange 
color, about i hour. To serve, simmer them 
for 10 minutes. 



ing and sardines, mincing all fine and thor- 
oughly mixing. Fill this into skins nine inches EPPING SAUSAGE (i). 23 pounds of lean 
long, not too tightly, boil for half an hour with- beef, 7 pounds of fat pork, 8 pounds of bread, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



soaked and pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pep- 
per, 13 ounces of salt, % f an ounce each of 
ground nutmeg and ginger, X f an ounce of 
rubbed marjoram. Mix the seasonings with 
the meat, mince fine, then work in the bread; 
place into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link 
them, and use by frying and broiling. 

EPPING SAUSAGE (2). 30 pounds of pork 
fat and lean, 8 pounds of bread soaked and 
pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pepper, 13 
ounces of salt, ^ of an ounce each of mace 
and rubbed sage. Prepare and use as above. 

FRANKFORT SAUSAGES (WEINERWURST) 
9 pounds of veal, 36 pcunds of lean pork and 
5 pounds of fat pork. Chjp finely, adding a 
seasoning of i pound of salt, 6 ounces of white 
pepper, and one head of garlic; when ready 
place into the filler and fill into sheep casingsi 
linking them at about four to the pound. Smoke 
for 48 hours, boil for 5 minutes before serving 
plain or with sauerkraut, etc. 

CHICKEN HAM AND TONGUE SAUSAGE 
10 pounds of lean pork, 4 pounds of fat pork, 4 
pounds of veal, 2 pounds of ox tongue, 4 pounds 
of granulated rice scalded, 2 pounds of cracker 
meal, the meat from one fowl and six hard 
boiled eggs, 9 ounces of salt, 3 ounces of pep- 
per, % an ounce each of ground mace and 
finely chopped parsley, and % of an ounce of 
powdered thyme. Cut the meats into pieces, 
add the seasoning and rice, mince altogether till 
fine, then the eggs minced, and the meal, fill into 
weasand casings, simmer slowly for an hour, 
use cold in slices. 

TRUFFLED LIVER SAUSAGE-Take 5 pounds 
of pig's liver and 3 pounds of fat pork. Mince 
these together very fine, and add a X of a pound 
of truffles cut into narrow strips and cooked in 
wine. Add a seasoning of salt and pepper and 
knead together. Fill into narrow hog casings, 
simmer for about half an hour, wash well in cold 
water and hang up to dry. If to be kept any 
time, smoke for a dry. Take care to use no 
spices, otherwise the flavor of the truffles will be 
spoiled. 

GOOSE LIVER SAUSAGE, TRUFFLED-Take 
2 pounds of well blanched calf's liver cut in 
pieces the size of small nuts, 4 pounds each of 
lean and fat firm fresh pork both minced very 
fine. Next add 4 shallots sliced and fried with 
butter to a golden color. Season with 5 ounces 
of salt, l /t an ounce of white pepper, one-fifth 
of an ounce each of ground ginger and mace. 
Then cut from a fine red cooked tongue half 
a pound, cut in very small dice also a quarter 
of a pound of truffles; mix all well. Then take 
5 pounds of geese livers blanched and sliced. 
Fill into the filler alternately the truffled meat 
and the sliced geese Jlivers. Then press into 
very wide pig skins not more than 12 inches 



long. Boil them gently one hour in fresh clear 
water. When done, take up into cold running 
water, which will make them beautifully white. 

LIVER SAUSAGE To every two hog's livers 
add one calf's liver; cut in thin slices. Scald 
well with hot water until the livers look white 
and clean. Chop well, adding one-eighth the 
amount of pure pork fat, boiling the fat for half 
an hour before mixing. Mix and chop together 
very fine, adding four ounces of fat pork to 
every five pounds of the balance. Then boil 
for half an hour, adding the following spices to 
each 100 pounds: 7 ounces salt, 2 ounces pep- 
per, i ounce ground marjoram, ]/ 2 ounce each 
of ground sage, basil and thyme, 2 minced 
onions and a small head of garlic. Stuff from 
stuffer into narrow hog casings 13 to 18 inches 
long (not filling very full) tying the ends with 
twine. When filled and tied, they are cooked 
in water just below the boiling point for thirty 
minutes (to give the white appearance) contin- 
ually stirring them. Care must be taken to 
prick the air places, or they will fill with fat. 
After cooling, hang for three days in the open 
air, then smoke for six days over a slow fire. 

SARDINE LIVER SAUSAGE Use 40 pounds 
boiled pigs' livers, 7^ pounds boned and 
trimmed sardines, 15 pounds cooked veal, 7^ 
pounds cooked lean pork, 20 pounds cooked fat 
pork, 10 pounds raw fat pork. Chop together 
very fine, and add 14 ounces salt, 10 ounces 
white pepper, i ounce each ground thyme and 
marjoram. Stuff into beef middle casings. 
Cook and smoke the same as the liver sausage 



(German recipe). The 
Lyons sausage (Saucisse de Lyon) was intro- 
duced into Germany in ths year 1852 by Lill 
on his return from his tour in France. Sausage 
makers throughout Germany then tried to make 
it, because of his success with it, but no one 
else succeeded. It can only be manufactured 
to keep by taking the greatest of care. When 
it is well made and well dried, it would pass for 
Cervelat sausage. It is prepared in the follow- 
ing manner: For a quantity of 40 pounds take 
25 pounds of well fed pork, 10 pounds beef from 
a young bullock, which should be chopped up 
when warm and then pounded in mortar, 5 
pounds pork fat, cut into dice the size of peas 
and then cooked for a little in boiling water, 12 
ounces salt, 2 ounces Indian cane sugar, i ounce 
powdered saltpetre. Mix the two lean meats, 
then mix the salt, saltpetre and sugar. Rub 
them into the meats, and let it stand for 48 
hours in a cool room in summer, and a warm 
room in winter. Now chop up the meat fine, 
then mix the seasonings and add them. They 
are 2 ounces white pepper, ^ ounce each of 
ground white ginger and nutmeg, 2 shallots 
salted and grated. Before the pork fat is put 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 141 

amongst the rest, the spices should be well cracker dust, adding cold water to it as it be- 
mixed up amongst the other things and a little comes too stiff. When of the proper sausage 
water worked into the mass. Now mix in consistency, place into the filler, and fill into 
lightly and quickly the pea diced pork fat. Put pork casings, linking them six to the pound. 
the meat into medium wide beef runners, 15 PORK SAUSAGE SEASONING Thoroughly 
inches long, pressing it in very tight. Now m i x together, then keep in tight covered tins, 
DRY the sausages WELL before smoking. g pounds table salt, 6 pounds pure ground 
When they are smoked a fine red color, put white pepper, ^ pound each of ground mace, 
them at once into a saucepan, and cook for half ground nutmeg, and rubbed sage leaves, i ounce 
an hour at a heat of 203" Fahr. When the each of ground cloves, ginger and rubbed basil, 
sausages are cool, there are usually some and */ 2 an ounce of cayenne pepper, 
wrinkles in the skin; this can be remedied by SALAMI Use 50 pounds of beef free from fibre, 
putting them in pairs into boiling water not 25 pounds each of lean and fat porki c hop very 
more than fifteen seconds. After they are coc 1 fine and add lg ^ Qunces o salt> ^ ounces 
again, they should be smoked in cold smoke for ground white pepp er, x# ounces ground salt- 
eight hours; they are then ready. petre) with 8 glasses o{ Rhine wine , in which 

OBERLAND LIVER SAUSAGE Take a previously has been soaked one pound of garlic, 

shoulder of pork and remove the bones and (I n place of Rhine wine, rum may be used). 

skin. Boil it well with three pounds of bacon Stuff into calf's bladders. Let them hang in 

cut in dice. Then mince the shoulder with the open air for two or three weeks, then smoke 

half its weight of raw liver and a large onion for 12 days. 

chopped very fine; add the diced bacon and VERONA SALAMI (Salami de Verona)-Use 18 

season with salt pepper and grated nutmeg, dg Qf deaned beef lg ds o lean k> 

and mix m a little fat if the paste ,, too stiff. poundg Q{ back fat> 2 pounds of sah x ounce 

Stuff into ox skins and boil gently for 40 min- o{ powdered sa l tpe tre, 3 ounces each of ground 

utes Then take up into cold running water, ^gj j x m of old 

and keep them in it until quite stiff. French cognac. First mince the meat, then 

POLISH SAUSAGE-This is the national sau- chop the {at in amongst it t he size of pecan 

sage of Poland, liked by rich and poor: Take DUts; then mix in the spiceSi and chop unt il the 

25 pounds of pork, % lean, and */ 3 fat, which {at is the size of peas> wipe the knives o f ten 

has been salted for a few days with i pound while mincing Three sticks of garlic finely 

salt and a little sugar. Grate finely three large ted may be added . Use skins for ho i ding 

cloves of garlic, salt them, stir in amongst them this _ and bind with pretty thick string aU the 

a quart of water Then add the meat which over> For the rest prepare i ike "Cerve- 

O^P^ 0^^ nu N t m W eg add M?x lat sausage" but do not smoL^only let the salami 

well and put into narrow pig skins very full. han * for four r five weeks tO dry ' 

When filled, tie into fifteen inch lengths; hang SMOKED SAUSAGE OR KNACKWURST 

to dry for a day; then smoke them with beech Take 6o pounds of lean pork, 14 pounds of 

wood at a heat of 133" Fahr., and let them hang lean beef and 26 pounds of fat pork. Chop very 

till they are thoroughly cooked inside merely fine > tnen add x pound salt, 5^ ounces ground 

with the hot smoking. pepper, i l /2 ounces ground saltpetre, 2^ ounces 

PORK SAUSAGES (first class) Take 15 pounds whole caraway seeds, a small quantity of grated 

of .ean and 6 P ounds of fat P ork, cut it UD into 8 arlic - Stuff in beef rounds or ho ^ casin g s - 

two inch P ieces and mix with it 14 ounces of Han g in the air for 8 da y s - then smoke for 6 

pork sausage seasoning, (from reci P e below); da y s - the y mav then be P reserved in a CDo1 

cho P together fine, or run through meat cutting drv P^ ace - 

machine with a fine P late; then thoroughly in- TENDERLOIN SAUSAGE Take the pork 

corporate with it 3 pounds of crumb bread tenderloins and trim them as near the shape of 

soaked and pressed. When mixed, further a sausage as possible; rub with hot salt, and 

work in one pound of sifted cracker dust. place for two weeks in a vessel containing a 

Place the mass then into the sausage filler, and solution of 17 ounces of salt boiled in 5 pints of 

run into pig casings, linking them at six to the water. Remove, wash, and stuff tightly in 

pound. beef bungs. Smoke for two weeks. 

PORK SAUSAGES(good ordinary sausage)-Take THURINGIAN RED SAUSAGE 14 pounds 

15 pounds lean and fat P ork and pork trim- thick streaky pork off the belly part (half tend- 

mings, cut it up into two-inch pieces and mix erly cooked) cut in quarter inch dice, 3 pounds 

with it ii ounces of pork sausage seasoning; of boiled pigs rinds, 4 pounds raw liver and 

chop fine, then thoroughly incorporate with it 4 lungs finely minced. This may be varied by 

pounds of crumb bread soaked and pressed. substituting boiled tongue or salted boiled 

When mixed, further work in 4 pounds of sifted heart, cut into pieces of equal size. Now put 8 



J4 2 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

pounds of blood in a tin dish, and then into a hour, boil them with a small piece of saltpetre 

big pot, and stir CONSTANTLY until hot. and the sweet taste will be removed. 

Add first the rind, liver and lungs, and stir POTATOES BAKED IN THEIR SKINS, will 

well, and then the pork. Season with 24 ounces always come out more dry and mealy> if a smail 

of table salt, 3 ounces ground wnite pepper, i iece be cut off QNE end( tQ allow steam tQ 

ounce ground marjoram, ^ of an ounce each g g . Q cooki 
of ground caraway seeds and ground cloves. 

Work all thoroughly together, and as quickly POTATOES WHEN BOILING are sometimes 

as possible fill the hot meat into the widest allowed to much water - so that " boils over 

pigskins you have. Give plenty of room, and on to the ran g e - producing a very disagreeable 

then put at once into water which is BOILING sme11 - A little bakin 8 soda thrown on to any 

HARD- stir constantly. Prick this sausage burning overflow of this nature will immed- 

often, and cook at a temperature of 212" Fahr. iat *ly d " v e away all odors. 

It is ready when, on pricking, the fat which ex- FRENCH FRIED POTATOES Raw peeled 

udes is perfectly clear. Smcke in cold smoke, potatoes cut in strips about the size of the little 

with some juniper berries in the sawdust. finger, fried in hot fat till done, taken up and 

TOMATO SAUSAGES-Lean mutton 6 pounds, drained - sprinkled with salt, then served, 

mutton fat 8 pounds, canned tomatoes 3 pounds, PARISIENNE POTATOES-Balls about the size 

sifted cracker dust i> pounds, scalded granu- of small cherries scooped out of raw potatoes; 

lated rice i pound, 10 ounces sausage season- cooked and served the same as French fried, 

ing. Cut the meat up fine in the machine, take LYONNAISE Cold boiled potatoes, either 

out into a mixer.andadd the rice and tomatoes, minced or sliced thinly, seasoned with salt and 

then the seasoning and the cracker dust. Place pepper, mixed with a little chopped parsley and 

in the filler, fill into sheep casings, and link minced fried onions; fried with butter in the 

them 6 to the pound. (When cheap enough, form of an omelet. 

use fresh tomatoes). SAUTE Also called HOME FRIED, COT- 
VEAL SAUSAGES Chop together 22 pounds of TAGE FRIED, GERMAN FRIED: are thinly 
veal freed from sinew and n pounds of bacon, sliced cold boiled potatoes, seasoned with salt 
and make very fine; season with 12 ounces of and pepper, browned on both sides in a fry pan 
salt, T-Yz ounces ground white pepper, 3 nut- containing butter. For RESTAURANT serv- 
megs grated and YZ ounce of ground mace. ice they should be served in the form of an 
Knead all together, adding a pint of milk. Fill omelet, nicely browned. 

into narrow skins. STEWED IN CREAM Raw potatoes cut in 

WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGE Take three parts very small dice, boiled till perfectly done, 

of lean and one part of fat pork, and cut into drained, put in a stew pan with a piece of good 

pieces like small dice; then season with salt, butter, seasoned with salt, covered with cream, 

pepper and cloves, so that it tastes mildly of simmered for two or three minutes, then served, 

the spices, and knead all together. Stuff into HASH ED IN CREAM Same as the preceding, 

long narrow casings, and let dry out of doors but having the potatoes minced a f te r whole 

for several days; then smoke yellow. NOTE: boilingi i nstea d of cut in dice. 

The above sausage is made almost exactly like SCALLOpED PO TATOES-Same as stewed In 

cream above; when rerdy to serve, put into 

SASTER SAUSAGE of the country people of scallop or vegetable dishes, sprinkle with grated 

Scotland, only the Scotch omit the smoking, chee se and breadcrumbs, brown off quickly in 

and the "sasters" are dried by hanging from a the oven or under a salamander, 

string attached to the ceiling in the kitchen. HASHED BROWNED-Same as the minced 

The Scotch sausages are usually kept for sev- L yonnaise, but omitting the parsley and onion, 

eral months before being used. JULIENNE-Raw peeled potatoes cut in shreds 

POTATOES are much improved if peeled and i ike matc hes, fried a delicate brown in very hot 

laid in cold water overnight. It saves time in i ard taken up and drained, sprinkled with salt 

the morning, and they are nicer and whiter in and fj ne p ars i e y dust. 

consequence. STEWED WITH BACON Bacon cut in small 

IN STEAMING POTATOES, put a cloth over dice, fried well done, drained, mixed in with 

them before placing on the steamer lid, they potatoes stewed in cream, 

will then take less time to cook and be much POTATOES REITZ Shapes of the parallelo- 

more mealy than when steamed without the % ^ m< Qt long square (about two inches long 

and an inch square) cut with a ribbed scallop 

TO EXTRACT FROST FROM POTATOES knife, steamed two-thirds done, then plunged 

After paring, put them in cold water for an into hot fat and finished like French fried. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 143 

POTATOES VILLAGEOISE Cold boiled pota- to a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of sait, 

toes, minced and simmered in Bechamel sauce. put the lid on and stew gently till done; served 

SARATOGA CHIPS Very thin shavings of sprinkled with parsley dust, 

peeled potatoes cut with a machine, steeped in CURRIED POTATOES Same as the preced- 

ice water to draw out the starch and become ing, adding a spoonful of curry powder while 

crisp; fry a few at a time in very hot lard. stewing. 

POTATOES BROILED Either plain or sweet POTATO RAGOUT Same as the stewed Pari- 

potatoes, cold boiled, cut lengthwise one-fourth sienne, but when nearly done, taken up and 

of an inch thick, seasoned with salt, dipped in drained, then placed into a good Espagnole 

melted butter, then in flour, broiled between a sauce, and simmered till done, 

a wire hinged broiler; served with miitre POTATO QUENELLES The croquette mix- 

d'hotel butter over them. ture rolled into 'very small balls, dipped in 

STUFFED POTATOES Whole peeled pota- beaten eggs, then in flour, fried very quickly 

toes, made hollow with a column cutter, ends (else they burst) in very hot lard, 

levelled, the both then steamed, the column POTATO PUFFS Cut out with a large column 

pieces mashed, and mixed with one-third of its cutter the inside of large raw potatoes, level 

bulk of grated Parmesan cheese; seasoned with the ends, then cut into four pieces each column, 

salt and pepper, grated nutmeg and bound with lengthwise. Have two French friers on the 

some whipped eggs; stuff the potatoes with the rang e half full of lard, one hotter than the 

mixture, arrange in a baking pan with butter other; fry the potatoes five minutes in the one, 

and brown off quickly. then take up, and plunge into the very hot one; 

STUFFED POTATOES Large oval shaped po" they will then puff out quickly, 

tatoes, peeled, hollowed out as above, filled with POT ATOES BERNHARDT-Twirled out like 

any kind of forcemeat, placed in a we'.l but^r-d a cud whh a cutterf fried in hot lafd> taken np 

pan, and baked a delicate brown. and draine d, sprinkled with salt and parsley 

POTATO CROQUETTES Steamed potatoss' dust. 

mashed dry, seasoned with salt, butter and a POTATOES VICTORIA The croquette mix- 
few raw egg yolks, formed into shapes like ture shaped like walnuts, breaded and fried, 
corks, breadcrumbed and fried. Also shaped GLAZED POT ATOES-Very large balls scooped 
like olives with two tea spoons, dipped in bat- out of steamed potatoes, seasoned with salt, 
ter and fried. dipped in beaten eggs, browned quickly in a 

STUFFED POTATO CROQUETTES Small hot oven. 

croquettes in the form of cones, breaded and POTATOES NAVARRAISE Cut with a seal- 
fried, drained; inside then partly hollowed out. lop knife very large dice from peeled raw pota- 
and replaced with a salpicon; served upright. toes, steam them till barely done, finish of a 

POTATOES DUCHESSE Potato croquette fine color in boiling oil. 

mixture, only a little softer, with butter and POTATOES MAITRE D'HOTEL Raw pota- 

yolks of eggs, forced from a bag with a star toes peeled, cut in sections like a section of an 

shaped tube, on a buttered pan, brushed over orange, steamed till barely done, then sim- 

with egg wash and baked. mered till done in a thin Veloute sauce contain- 

POTATO FRITTERS The croquette mixture- ing chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a grat- 

with some beaten whites of eggs worked in, ing of nutmeg. 

shaped, breaded, fried; served with parsley POTATOES INDIENNE Marinade for threa 

sauce poured over. hours some minced onions and hot green 

POTATOES ORSINI One part croquette mix- chillies in lemon juice, add a little French 

ture, one part well cooked rice, one part grated mustard at the finish. Mix all into some light 

tongue, the whole mixed, formed into small dry mashed potatoes, season with salt, use as a 

balls, breaded, fried and served. border to a curry, with, or instead of, boiled 

POTATO CASSEROLES The croquette mix- rice or "ssoto 

ture shaped liked a small nest, brushed over POTATOES IN CASES Very thin slices of 

with beaten egg, baked a delicate brown; used cold boiled potatoes and onions, mixed together 

to receive salpicons. with a little minced parsley, filled into fancy 

POTATO PATTIES-Very small casseroles, paste cases with a little butter sprinkle with 

filled with a salpicon of game or fowl. L^^rouT' 

POTATOES CREOLE-Like the patties preced- poTATOES^HOLLANDAISE-Cut like sec- 
ing, but filled with a Creole garniture; these tions Qf u steamed; served with maitre 
make fine entree garnishes. d . hotel sauce Qver them 

STEWED PARISIENNE POTATOES Scoop POT ATOESMARIE-Steamed potatoes, mashed, 

out small balls from raw potatoes, put them in- made soft and rich with cream and butter. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



POTATOES GASTRONOME (i) Raw, cut 
with column cutter, size and shapes of corks, 
steamed barely done, then fried with butter till 
done and of a golden color; served sprinkled 
with salt and parsley dust. (2) Cut same as 
No. i, parboiled in water containing a little vin- 
egar, drain, then saute with butter till done, 
take up and serve with Perigueux sauce. 

POTATOES MAIRE Cut with a large column 
cutter tubes of raw potatoes, cut these into 
slices six to the inch, boil till barely done, then 
simmer till done in reduced cream. 

POTATOES MONACO Slices same as Maire, 
cooked same as Gastronome No. i. 

POTATOES GENEVOISE Take small fancy 
patty pans, butter them well, then coat the in- 
side with grated cheese, fill with mashed pota- 
toes, sprinkle with grated cheese, bake half an 
hour in a medium oven. 

POTATOES CONDE Scoop out balls of raw 
potatoes with a large scoop, steam barely done, 
then fry till done and brown in clarified butter, 
serve sprinkled with salt and parsley dust. 

POTATOES COLBERT Cold boiled and peeled 
potatoes, cut in large dice, simmered in Colbert 
sauce; when serving, sprinkle with parsley 
dust. 

POTATOES CHATEAU Olive shapes of pota- 
toes turned out with an oval scoop, blanched, 
drained, fried a light color in clarified butter. 

POTATOES BARIGOULE Take small round 
new potatoes, steam till barely done, then 
plunge into boiling oil till brown; serve 
sprinkle i with salt, pepper and tarragon vine- 
gar. 

POTATOES BRETONNE Cut cold boiled 
potatoes in squares with a scallop knife, saute 
with a little chopped parsley, then simmer in 
Bretonne sauce. 

POTATOES BRABANT Cut like for Bre- 
tonne, sauteed with minced shallot and parsley. 

POTATOES BIGNONNE Scoop balls out of 
raw potatoes with largest sized scoop, take the 
centre out with a column cutter, blanch, drain, 
fill centres with forcemeat, then bake till done 
and brown with butter. 

POTATOES BRABANCONNE Dry mash some 
steamed peeled potatoes, mix in some minced 
parboiled onions, a little chopped parsley and 
Parmesan cheese, with a little cream sauce, 
bake in paper cases. 

POTATOES ANGLAISE (i) Scoop balls out 
of raw potatoes with a very large scoop, par- 
boil with a little salt and vinegar in the water, 
take out, drain, then fry till done and brown in 
roast meat drippings. (2) Raw potatoes peeled, 
trimmed, quartered, steamed; served with 
maitre d'h6tel sauce over them. 

POTATO SOUP (i) One pound of mashed 
potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to 



one gallon of very thin cream sauce, season 
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with a 
sprinkling of chopped chervil; serve with crou- 
tons. 

POTATO SOUP (2) One pound of mashed 
potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to 
one gallon of thin creamy soup made from 
white stock, in which has been cooked onion, 
carrot, celery, salt pork and a ham knuckle; 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with 
a sprinkling of chopped parsley; serve with 
croutons. 

POTATO SOUP (3) One pound of mashed 
potatoes rubbed through the tamis (they should 
have been boiled in water that hams have been 
boiled in); use this water in conjunction with 
veal stock, to make a thin creamy soup, then 
add the puree" of potatoes, finish with a liaison 
of egg yolks and cream, remove from the fire, 
and pour the soup over a braised Julienne of 
vegetables. 

POTATO SOUP (4) Three pounds of peeled 
potatoes sliced with a Saratoga cutter, one 
large onion peeled and sliced and one head of 
celery sliced, the whole put into a sautoir with 
a cupful of melted butter, a seasoning of salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, put on the lid, and let 
simmer with an occasional stir till quite done, 
then rub the whole through the tamis; add this 
puree to a gallon of chicken consomme, boil 
up, skim, then add a pint of good cream; serve 
with croutons. 

POTATO SOUP (5) Prepare the puree" as given 
in the preceding (4), add to it the consomme, 
then finish it with asparagus points, and green 
stringless beans cut in diamond shapes. 

POTATO SALADS (See salads). 

POULETTE The French name for a hen 
chicken, hence POULETTE SAUCE is made 
from chicken broth, as follows: Half a cup of 
melted butter, flour added to form a roux, 
moistened with one quart of good chicken broth 
(strained), seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
nutmeg, brought to the boil and skimmed; then 
is worked in a liaison of egg yolks and cream, 
finished with a little lemon juice and chopped 
parsley. 

PRAIRIE CHICKEN Is best cooked in three 
ways, ROASTED, BROILED and in a SAL- 
MIS. To roast it, first pluck, singe, draw and 
wipe clean, truss it with slices of bacon tied 
over the breast, roast it rare; serve with the 
gravy from the roasting strained into a sauce 
Bigarade; serve garnished with watercress. . . 
To broil it, pluck and singe YOUNG birds, 
split down the back, remove the breast bone, 
truss out fiat, season with olive oil, salt and 
pepper, place between a wire hinged broiler; 
broil rare done; serve on toast with maitre 
d'hotel sauce poured over, garnish with cress. 
. . . For salmis, simmer the cooked joints in 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Madeira sauce; serve garnished with mush- 
rooms, stoned olives and fancy croutons. Or 
simmer in Bigarade sauce; serve with sliced 
oranges and fancy crofitons. In HUNTER'S 
STYLE is to roast the birds rare, cut in joints, 
then simmer in sauce Chasseur; serve garn- 
ished with fancy croutons. . . Another nice way 
to serve the bird is to take cold roast birds, 
joint them, trim the joints to a wing shape, dip 
in sauce Richelieu, roll in fresh grated bread- 
crumbs, then dip in beaten egg and again roll 
in the breadcrumbs, arrange them in a well 
buttered pan, sprinkle the tops with melted 
butter, place in oven, and let come to a nice 
brown color, with the butter frothing on them; 
serve at once with sauce Richelieu. 

PRO VENC ALE Name of a splendid sauce; also 
applied to the Southern French style of cook- 
ing. For the sauce (see sauces). 

PUFFS Forms of hollow pastry (see fritters). 

PUMPKIN Name cf a large vegetable fruit of 
the melon species, grows on vines, the young 
shoot leaves of which make a most splendid 
substitute for spinach in the summer months. 

BAKED PUMPKIN Slices of peeled pumpkin 
arranged in buttered pan, seasoned with salt, 
moistened with roast meat gravy, baked and 
basted till done, served as a vegetable. . . Also 
not peeled, but baked plain in slices and served 
like baked potatoes. . . Also slices of peeled 
pumpkin, steamed for ten minutes, then placed 
in buttered pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, baked till 
done and glazy, then served at once. 

PUMPKIN PUREE Slices of peeled pumpkin, 
steamed till done, then rubbed through the 
tamis, seasoned with salt and nutmeg, finished 
with a little cream and butter; served as a 
vegetable. 

PUMPKIN PIE The pumpkin sliced, peeled, 
steamed and rubbed through the tamis, mixed 
with a rich custard, flavored with cinnamon 
and rose water, baked in custard pie pans lined 
with puff paste. 

PRESERVED PUMPKIN RIND The thick 
cut rind of the pumpkin may be preserved in 
exactly the same way as melon rind(see melon). 

PUREE Name applied in cookery to vegetables, 
etc., first cooked then rubbed through a fine 
sieve; used as a basis to soups, also as a garn- 
ish to entrees. I will here append the princi- 
pal purges in general use. 

PUREE OF ARTICHOKES Peel and slice 
Jerusalem artichokes, place them in a sautoir 
with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt and 
nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, boil 
till done and the broth reduced, then add some 
cream, reduce and mash till like mashed pota- 
toes, add a pat of butter, then rub through the 
tamis. PUREE OF POTATOES made ex- 



actly the same way, snbstituting potatoes for 
artichokes. 

PUREE OF CARROTS Young carrots peeled 
and sliced with a Saratoga cutter, place them 
in a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of salt, 
nutmeg and sugar, place on the lid and let sim- 
mer to a light brown color, then add a little 
good white stock, and simmer down to a glaze, 
rub through the tamis and use as required. 

PUREE OF CELERY- Celery cut up small, 
blanched for five minutes, drained, placed in 
sautoir with butter, season with salt, sugar and 
nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, and 
simmer till soft; when soft and the stock re- 
duced, add a little Bechamel sauce, rub the 
whole through a tamis and use as required. 

PUREE OF PEAS Shelled green peas with a 
bunch each of mint and parsley and a few 
spring onions boiled tender, drained, pounded, 
taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with salt and 
a little thick white sauce, then rub through the 
tamis for use. 

PUREE OF CHESTNUTS Slit large chest- 
nuts and steam them for twenty minutes, then 
remove the husks and brown skin, put the 
cleaned nuts in a sautoir and moisten with a 
little consomme and simmer till soft and the 
consomme 1 reduced to glaze, then pound them; 
season with salt, nutmeg and sugar, add a lit- 
tle cream sauce, then rub through the tamis 
for use. 

PUREE OF SPINACH Wash the spinach free 
from sand, blanch it, then take up and let it 
drain well, now chop it very fine, then pound 
it; place in a sautoir, season with salt, sugar 
and nutmeg, add a little white sauce, reduce 
rapidly to preserve its color, add a little butter 
and a piece of glaze, then rub through the 
tamis for use. 

PUREE OF ASPARAGUS Take the green parts 
of asparagus, wash free from sand, place in a 
sautoir with some spring onions and a bunch of 
parsley, boil in salted water till asparagus is 
tender, then drain all, return to another sautoir, 
season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, add a little 
butter and some white sauce, also some white 
grated breadcrumbs, reduce rapidly, finish with 
a little green coloring paste and a small piece 
of glaze, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF TOMATOES Into a santoir put 
some butter, lean raw ham, minced shallots, a 
few whole peppers, mace and cloves, two or 
three bay leaves and a few sprigs of thyme, 
fry together to a golden color, then add either 
fresh or canned tomatoes with a little Veloute 
sauce, reduce rapidly till thick, add a seasoning 
of salt and sugar, with a piece of glaze and a 
pat of butter, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF ONIONS Sliced onions blanched 
for five minutes then drained, placed in a sautoir 



I 4 6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



with butter, seasoned with salt, sugar and nut- 
meg, moistened with a very little white stock, 
simmered till soft and the broth reduced to 
glaze, then add some thick white sauce, reduce 
rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF SEAKALE Seakale cut small and 
blanched, then drained, placed in a sautoirwith 
butter and a little white stock, season with salt, 
sugar and nutmeg. Simmer till soft, then add 
some thick white sauce, reduce rapidly till 
thick, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF MUSHROOMS Canned button 
mushrooms drained, chopped fine, placed in a 
sautoir with butter and allowed to fry to a light 
straw color, then is added the juice of a lemon, 
and a good cream sauce made with cream aud 
the liquor from the canned mushrooms; sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, reduce 
rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF LIMA BEANS Fresh green lima 
beans boiled for a few minutes with some 
spring onions and a bunch of parsley, also a few 
sprigs of chives, drained, placed in a sautoir 
with butter and a small bunch of savory, sea- 
soned with salt, sugar and a little white sauce, 
simmered till very tender, then add a piece of 
glaze and a little green coloring paste, rub 
through the tamis for use. 

QUAIL Pluck and singe the quail, split down 
the back, remove the breast bone, season with 
salt, brush with butter, broil done to a golden 
brown; spread the trail on buttered toast, pop 
it in the oven a few minutes during the broil- 
ing, place the bird on the toast, brush over with 
butter, garnish with a little cress and send to 
table. 

ROAST QUAIL Pluck and singe the bird, 
draw it, return the liver, truss; run half a 
dozen on a long steel skewer; place acrcss a 
baking pan, letting the ends of the skewer rest 
on the edge of the pan; sprinkle with salt, 
dredge with melted butter, roast; serve on toast 
garnished with a little cress. Sauce Perigueux, 
or a Financiere garnish may be served with it, 
but is far from being essential. 

QUAHAUG or quahog. One of the clam species, 
the tender part only should be used; in every 
way of cooking applicable to oysters and clams* 

QUINCE HONEY Five large quinces grated, 
one pint of water, five pounds of granulated 
sugar, boil the sugar and water, add the grated 
quinces, boil fifteen minutes, pour into glasses, 
allow to cool before covering. 

QUINCE JELLY Wipe, but do not peel the 
fruit; slice it, and remove all seeds. Put them 
in a porcelain lined kettle and barely cover 
with cold water, put on the lid, and boil slowly 
till very tender, then pour all into a flannel jelly 
bag and let drain without squeezing. To each 
Dint of juice allow one pound of sugar, put the 



juice into the kettle, bring to the boil, add the 
sugar, stir till it is dissolved, then boil rapidly, 
(skimming the while) till it jellies (about twenty 
five minutes), then roll the jelly glasses in boil- 
ing water, and pour in the boiling jelly. Stand 
aside for twenty-four hours until set firm, then 
screw on the lids. Keep in a cool dark place. 

QUINCE MARMALADE Peel, core and slice 
the fruit, boil with just enough water to cover 
them, stirring and mashing them till soft; when 
reduced to a paste, allow eleven ounces of 
granulated sugar to each pound of fruit, boil 
twelve minutes, stirring constantly; remove 
from fire, allow to cool, then fill into jars for use. 

STEWED RABBIT, GERMAN STYLE Yonng 
rabbits cut in six pieces, the two legs, breasts 
and shoulders, and the back cut in halves; 
wash well, drain, then steep them for a few 
hours in vinegar containing thyme, carrots and 
onions sliced; when ready, take the nieces, roll 
them in flour and fry lightly in butter, put 
them in a sautoir when fried; now fry some 
pieces of salt pork in the remaining butter, add 
them to the rabbit, with some flour, shake to- 
gether, moisten with stock, simmer and skim; 
then add some button onions, a little thyme 
and enough of the vinegar they were steeped in 
to give a sharp flavor, simmer till tender and 
serve. 

FRICASSEE OF RABBIT Legs, backs and 
shoulders of young rabbits, washed and wiped 
dry, then lightly fry with butter till the flesh 
is firm; take up into a sautoir, add some 
flour, moisten with white stock, simmer and 
skim; when about half done, add some button 
onions and mushrooms, also a glass of white 
wine; when about finished, thicken the sauce 
with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, season 
with nutmeg, salt, red pepper and the juice of 
a lemon. 

POTTED RABBIT Legs, shoulders and backs 
of young rabbits, remove the bones from each 
joint, then place the pieces in individual jars 
(like bean jars) with diced bacon and mush- 
rooms. Take the bones and bead, pound them, 
boil them with carrot, celery, onions and a lit- 
tle thyme, thicken it slightly, strain, and cover 
the meat in the jars with it, put on the lids, 
and bake slowly till tender; serve in the jars. 

BRAISED RABBIT WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
Legs and backs of young rabbits, lard them 
with seasoned strips of bacon, place in a bras- 
iere with bacon, onions, carrots and a bunch of 
thyme, moisten with white stock and a glass of 
white wine, braise till tender and then remove 
to another sautoir; strain the braise, boil up, 
skim, then add it to a thick tomato sauce; 
serve it over the rabbit, garnished with fancy 
croutons. 

BROILED SADDLE OF RABBIT Take the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



whole of the back of the rabbit, soak it in warm 
salted water for an hour, then take it up and 
wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
melted butter, dredge with flour, place between 
a wire hinged broiler and broil it well done 
over a clear fire, basting with butter during 
cooking; serve on tcast with m&itre d'hotel 
butter in which has been incorporated a little 
red currant jelly. 

SAUTE OF RABBIT Take the legs and sad- 
dles of the rabbits, soak in warm salted water 
for an hour, then drain and wipe each piece 
dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, 
fry a golden color with butter, make the sauce 
in the same pan, boil up and skim, put back 
the rabbit, add some sliced mushrooms, sim- 
mer till tender, finish with the addition of a 
little sherry wine. 

SMOTHERED RABBIT WITH ONIONS 
Take the legs and saddles, blanch and drain 
them, then arrange them in a sautoir, cover 
with a light brown sauce and let simmer for 
half an hour; meanwhile fry lightly plenty of 
onions (the small button ones), add them to the 
rabbit, simmer till tender; serve garnished with 
the onions and a fancy crofiton. 
RABBIT PIE Take the legs and saddles, cut 
into inch pieces, make them into a saute"; take 
the hearts, livers and brains, and with the ad- 
dition of a little grated bacon, breadcrumbs, 
chopped parsley and a flavoring of thyme make 
forcemeat balls; lay the rabbit in the pie dish, 
add the forcemeat balls and some diced bacon, 
pour over the sauce, cover with a good short 
crust and bake for one hour. May also be done 
in individual pie dishes for restaurant and club 
service, where it is a good seller. 
RABBIT CUTLETS, TOMATO SAUCE Take 
thvj legs, roll them first in a mixture of salt, 
pepper and poultry seasoning, then in flour, 
dip in beaten eggs, then grated breadcrumbs, 
place in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with 
melted butter, bake slowly for half an hour; 
serve with tomato sauce. 

EPIGRAMME OF RABBIT Take the legs and 
lard them with seasoned strips of bacon, fry 
one half of them slowly till tender, and braise 
the other half; when serving, place a line of 
mashed potatoes down the centre of the dish; 
on one side place a braised leg dipped in a 
brown Italian sauce, on the other side place 
the fried leg dipped in a white Italian sauce, 
garnish the ends with fancy shaped quenelles 
made of the hearts, liver and brains. 
DEVILLED RABBIT Take the legs and sad- 
dles, boil them for fifteen minutes, let cool, 
then score them slantwise in three or four 
places to the bone; make a mixture of melted 
butter, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, mus- 
tard and tarragon vinegar, thoroughly rub into 



the cuts with the mixture, then slowly broil 
them of a light color; serve garnished with 
crofitons and a little of the devil mixture made 
hot and poured over. 

BLANQUETTE OF RABBIT Legs and sad- 
dles of rabbits blanched, then lightly fried with 
butter, taken up into a sautoir, covered with 
Veloutfe sauce, simmered till tender; served 
garnished with button mushrooms that have 
been saute"ed with butter. 

FRIED RABBIT CUTLETS Legs of young 
rabbits, bones removed and their place filled 
with forcemeat, steam them for ten minutes, 
then take up and spread a little of the force- 
meat on the outside, then bread them; arrange 
in a buttered pan, sprinkle with melted butter, 
brown off in the oven; serve with a sauce made 
from the inferior parts. 

STEWED RABBIT WITH VEGETABLES 
Prepare the blanquette of rabbit of a preced- 
ing recipe; serve garnished with balls of carrot 
and turnip, green peas and small onions. 

BROILED RABBIT Young rabbits, the legs 
and saddle cut in one piece, like frogs are cut, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, broiled well 
done; served with bacon and maitre d'hotel 
sauce. 

RAGOUT OF RABBIT Legs, saddles and 
shoulders of rabbits, cut into even sized pieces, 
seasoned with salt and pepper and sauted with 
butter to a golden color, then add some chopped 
truffle, mushrooms, parsley and shallot, sim- 
mer all in the butter for ten minutes, then 
pour off the waste, moisten with some good 
espagnole, boil up and skim, then add a piece 
of chicken glace, juice of a lemon, and a grav- 
ing of nutmeg, let simmer till nearly done, 
then add some forcemeat balls prepared from 
the inferior parts; serve garnished with the 
quenelles and fancy croutons. 

RABBIT FILLETS GARNISHED, SAUCE 
PERIGUEUX Legs and saddles of young 
rabbits seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
sauteed with butter to a golden color, taken up 
and drained, placed into a rich Perigueux 
sauce, simmered in it till done; served with the 
sauce poured over and garnished with small 
quenelles of rabbits made from the inferior 
parts, alternately with button mushroom sau- 
tees. 

SALPICON OF RABBIT Take the whole rab- 
bit and roast it of a light color, well basting it 
to keep it moist; take up and allow to cool, 
then cut in small dice, the meat only, add also 
a few mushrooms, and truffles, a little tongue 
and sweetbread all cut in small dice, moisten 
the whole with a rich Veloutfc sauce; serve in 
fancy croustade cases. 

MINCED RABBIT ON TOAST Cold cooked 
rabbit, the meat cut into very small dice, 



I 4 8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



moistened with a brown Italian sauce; served 
on toast with or without a trimmed poached 
egg. 

CURRIED RABBIT WITH RICE Legs, sad- 
dles and shoulders of rabbits lightly fried with 
minced onions in butter, then taken up into a 
sautoir, sprinkled with curry powder and flour, 
moistened with white stock, simmered till 
done; served with rice. 

RASPBERRIES A delicions fruit used chiefly 
as a table fruit, being picked over, then served 
with cream. Made into puddings, charlottes, 
ices, creams, meringues, tarts, jellies, trifles, 
etc., by the pastry cooks; into syrup for flavor- 
ing; also used as a drink in summer for cooling 
the blood known as RASPBERRY VINEGAR; 
made by taking equal measurement of rasp- 
berries and vinegar, and steeping them for a 
week, then straining off the liquor, allowing a 
pound of granulated sugar to each pint of juice; 
it is boiled, skimmed and bottled for use. 

RAVIOLES Are essentially poached rissoles or 
rissolettes; they are made up from any kind of 
croquette mixture, rolled up the sizeand shape 
of an egg, then slightly flattened, and laid on a 
small square piece of NOODLE or SHORT 
paste, the four ends brought over the top to a 
centre and slightly pressed together; they are 
then poached in white stock for six or seven 
minutes, drained, placed on the serving dish; 
an appropriate sauce to the croquette mixture 
is poured over them, then sprinkled with grated 
Parmesan cheese. 

RAVIGOTE Name given to a sauce, made with 
plenty of melted butter, flour to form a roux, 
moistened with good white stock, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, and containing plenty 
of chopped chives, chervil, tarragon, burnet 
and parsley. . . Also a cold sauce, which is 
mayonnaise containing finely minced chives, 
shallot, tarragon, parsley and chervil. 

REDSNAPPER, BOILED Clean and scale the 
fish, place in the fish kettle, cover it with hot 
water, adding salt and a little vinegar, sim- 
mer till done (from half to one hour according 
to size), then raise and drain; serve in portions 
garnished with Hollandaise potatoes and either 
caper, matelote, Allemande, Admiral, diplo- 
mate or Venitienne sauces. 

REDSNAPPER, BAKED Clean and scale the 
fish, split it down the back and lift off the two 
sides free from bones; lay these skin side down 
in a buttered pan, season with salt and pepper, 
place in oven till set, then brush liberally with 
melted butter; bake done and brown, basting 
well with butter during the cooking; serve in 
portions with a quarter of a lemon, and a rich 
tomato sauce made with court-bouillon. 

REDSNAPPER, SAUTE Prepare the fillets as 
in the preceding recipe, then cut them in por- 



tion pieces, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, saute" them a delicate brown color with 
plenty of melted butter; when done, take up 
and drain, sprinkle the surface with finely 
minced parsley; serve with Parisienne potatoes 
and either lobster, Genoise, Aurora, Cardinal, 
Chambord, or Normande sauces. 

REDSNAPPER, BROILED Clean and scale 
the fish, split down the back and remove the 
sides free from bones, season with salt and 
pepper, brush with melted butter, pass it 
through flour, place between the wire hinged 
broiler, broil till done, well basting with butter 
during cooking; serve garnished with chip or 
Julienne potatoes, and either Maitre D'Hotel, 
Genoise, Bearnaise, Eschalote, or Nantaise 
sauces. 

REDSNAPPER, STUFFED Clean, trim and 
scale the fish; cut from the belly part deep 
enough at sides of bone so as to withdraw it 
without cutting the skin of the back; stuff with 
a fish forcemeat, then sew the opening, score 
the sides, bake with slices of salt pork; serve 
in portions garnished with Duchesse potatoes 
and tomato sauce. 

RHUBARB COMPOTE Young rhubarb cut in 
finger lengths, placed in enameled pan covered 
with cold water, slowly brought to the scalding 
(not boiling) point, then drain. Measure the 
scalded water, and add to it a pound of sugar 
to each pint, boil together till of a thin syrupy 
nature, then pour over the rhubarb. 

RHUBARB PIE Line the sides of pie dish with 
short paste, cut the rhubarb into half inch 
thick pieces, sprinkle well with sugar, a little 
grated nutmeg and lemon rind, just a little 
water, cover with short paste, egg wash the 
top, bake and serve. 

RHUBARB WITH CUSTARD Cut the rhu- 
barb into finger lengths, place it in an enam- 
eled pan, adding sugar and a few strips of 
candied lemon peel, a little water, place the pan 
in a slow oven and let simmer till done without 
breaking the fruit; serve with a spoonful to 
each portion of thin boiled custard, flavored 
with vanilla. 

RHUBARB ] AM Wash the young rhubarb and 
cut into pieces about an inch long, do not peel 
it, weigh, and to each pound allow three-quart- 
ers of a pound of granulated sugar, boil in a 
porcelain lined kettle, bringing slowly to the 
boil, then boil and stir continually for forty-five 
minutes, fill into Mason jars, screwing the lids 
on tight. 

RHUBARB JELLY Wash the young rhubarb 
and cut it into inch lengths, put the cut fruit 
into a stone crock, put on the lid, stand it in 
the bain marie, and heat slowly till the fruit is 
soft; now put a small quantity at a time into 
your jelly bag, and squeeze out all the juice. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Measure the juice, and to each pint allow one 
pound of granulated sugar. Turn the juice in- 
to a porcelain lined kettle, and stand over a 
brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthern dishes 
and stand in the oven to heat. Boil the juice 
rapidly and continuously for twenty minutes, 
then turn in the sugar quickly, stirring all the 
while till the sugar is dissolved. Dip jelly 
tumblers into hot water, watch the liquid care- 
fully, and as soon as it comes to the boil, take 
it from the fire and fill the glasses. 

RHUBARB FRITTERS Take pieces of the 
rhubarb from the compote of a preceding 
recipe, dip in frying batter, fry in deep, hot 
lard, drain, dust powdered sugar over; serve 
with rum sauce. 

RHUBARB MERINGUE Wash young rhu- 
barb, then cut it into inch lengths; fill a pie 
dish with the rhubarb, sugared alternately with 
slices of stale sponge cake; bake in a moderate 
oven about half an hour, then cover with a 
meringue sprinkled with colored sugar; return 
to oven and bake till of a light fawn color. 

RICE To boil it properly so as to have it in 
grains when cooked instead of pasty: Take a 
large saucepan containing plenty of boiling 
water with a little salt, then sprinkle in the 
rice, let it boil up, then shift it to a cooler part 
of the range where it will just simmer, do not 
stir it, but let it swell itself tender, then turn it 
into a colander, place the colander in the 
saucepan, take it to the sink and thoroughly 
wash it clear with running cold water, then 
allow to drain dry, then put the drained rice 
into a receptacle of the bain marie, put on the 
cover, and let the boiling water surrounding it 
reheat the rice. . . Rice cooked as above is 
good to serve with curries, compotes, as a 
breakfast cereal with cream and sugar, etc. . . 
Also mixed with a little butter, plenty of 
tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese it forms 
Rissoto . . . added to consommes it does not 
cloud the soup . . . mixed with wheat flour, 
baking powder, sugar and milk for making rice 
muffins. 

KICE CROQUETTES Well washed rice boiled 
till soft in milk with a seasoning of sugar, a 
stick of cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon; 
when done remove the lemon and spice, add a 
piece of butter, then work in a liaison of egg 
yolks; turn out into a buttered pan, allow to 
become cold, then form into cakes with a de- 
pressed centre, bread and fry them, drain, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar; when sending to 
table fill the depression with preserve, and 
pour a vanilla or wine sauce around the base. 

CROUSTADES OF RICE Well washed rice 
boiled till soft in white stock; when done, 
season with salt, butter and nutmeg, then whip 
it creamy, adding some Parmesan cheese. Now 



turn it out into a buttered pan, smooth it well, 
place a sheet of buttered paper over it, on that 
a board with a weight; when thoroughly cold, 
stamp out with a biscuit cutter, double bread, 
then fry them, drain, scoop out the centres and 
use the shell for the reception of salpifons, 
macedoines of fruit or vegetables, etc. 

RICHILIEU Name of a garnish (see garnishes). 

RISSOLES Another form of savory croquette; 
but instead of being breaded and fried, the 
croquette mixture is divided into even sized 
pieces, and laid on a sheet of pie paste, cov- 
ered with another sheet (thin), then stamped out 
with a fluted biscuit cutter, then fried like cro- 
quettes in deep hot lard. 

RISSOLETTES Same as rissoles, but made 
much smaller and used for garnishing. 

ROE The eggs of fish, those chiefly used being 
taken from the shad, codfish, carp and mullet. 
Recipes will be found under their respective 
headings. 

ROLY POLY Name applied to puddings made 
from a sweet biscuit dough, rolled out thin, 
then spread with chopped fruit, currants, sul- 
tanas, etc., then rolled up, tied in a cloth, 
plunged into boiling water, and boiled; or else 
placed in a cake or bread tin and steamed till 
done; served in slices with sauce appropriate. 

ROMAN PUNCH To lemon water ice when 
nearly frozen is added Jamaica rum, brandy, 
and sherry wine in equal parts, and enough 
meringue to whiten it, then finish the freezing; 
served in punch glasses with the dinner. 

ROQUEFORT Name of a French cheese (see 
cheese). 

ROULADE Name given to savory rolls of steak. 
Take thin steaks, spread with a forcemeat, roll 
up, tie the ends with twine, arrange them in a 
sautoir with some bacon fat, brown them, then 
add a little flour, moisten with stock, then let 
them simmer in the gravy till tender, take up, 
serve with the twine removed, and garnished 
with vegetables, mushrooms, etc. 

ROUX The name given to an equal mixture of 
butter and flour, used to thicken sauces and 
soups. Take the sautoir, place in the butter; 
when melted, add the flour and stir till thor- 
oughly smooth and heated, then moisten with 
the stock, milk, etc. . . If for a brown sauce or 
soup.allow the roux to brown before moistening. 

ROYAL CUSTARDS Name applied to a com- 
bination of eggs and a liquid either plain or in 
conjunction with a solid; used to decorate 
soups, and also with garnishes; also for garn- 
ishing galantines, etc. Yolks and whites of 
eggs separated, stirred to amalgamate (must 
not be beaten light) with a little milk or stock, 
then poured into a buttered basin or tin, cov- 
ered with a sheet of oiled paper, and placed in 



ISO 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



the steamer where they must be gradually decorated with capers; garnished with aspara- 
steamed till set; they are then removed and gus points dipped in French dressing, 
allowed to become cold; they may then be cut BEAN SALAD Take the French beans, bought 



in slices and afterwards into all sorts of fancy 
shapes for the purpose required. Into the eggs 
may also be mixed a macedoine of vegetables, 
chopped truffles, chopped mushrooms, force- 
meat, lobster coral, 'green peas, chopped chervil, 
parsley, chives, tarragon, etc.; and when re- 
quired for garnishing whole pieces they, after 



in cans and called "Haricots Verts". Wash 
and drain them, then moisten with French 
dressing and send to table in one of the num- 
erous shaped croustade cases, placed on a leaf 
of lettuce ... (2) Fresh green lima beans boiled 
tender, drained, mixed with cream dressing; 
served garnished with cress, 
being mixed with whatever solid is used, should BEETROOT AND POTATO SALAD Cut out 
be filled into small timbale molds so that they of cold boiled b e troo ts small balls; the same 



can be turned out and used whole. 

RYE Name of a cereal, used in distilling for 
whisky, ground into flour for making rye bread, 
muffins, batter cakes, mush, etc. 
SALADS. 

ALLIGATOR PEAR It is either eaten raw with 
salt and pepper; or sliced and dressed with 
French dressing; served on a bed of shredded 
endive. 

ANCHOVY SALAD (i) Shredded fillets of 
salted anchovies, garnished with small white 
pickled onions, capers, and sliced hard boiled 
eggs; sprinkle a little tarragon vinegar over the 
anchovies . . .(2) Shredded lettuce and shredded 



size balls also to be cut out of raw peeled pota- 
toes; then steamed till done; when cooled, place 
the potatoes in a Ravigote sauce, the beet balls 
in tarragon vinegar; dish them up alternately. 
BEET AND EGG SALAD Large beetroots 
boiled and cooled, then with the largest sized 
column cutter stamp out cork like pieces; these 
slice, also do the same with steamed whites and 
yolks of eggs. Place some grated horseradish 
down the centre of the dish, on it place alter- 
nately a small white pickled onion and a caper; 
surround the horseradish with the yellow 
slices, and those with the alternate slices of beet 
and white egg; serve with cream dressing aside. 



anchovies, a few minced shallots, all mixed to- CABBAGE SALAD Cut some bacon into dice, 



gether dry; then moistened with equal quanti- 
ties of olive oil and caper vinegar thoroughly 
beaten together. 

ARTICHOKE SALAD (i) Artichoke bottoms 
and medium sized onions both cooked and 
cooled, then sliced and dished alternately; 
garnished with small balls of cooked beetroot 
and carrots; served sprinkled with either 
French or a cream dressing ... (2) Cooked arti- 
choke bottoms, skinned raw tomatoes; slice 
both and arrange alternately on the serving 
dish, sprinkle with finely chopped chervil, then 
with a French dressing ... (3) Hearts of lettuce 
finely shred; artichoke bottoms cooked and 



fry; when done, add a cup of vinegar, a cup of 
water, season with salt and pepper, bring all 
to the boil, pour over very finely shred cab- 
bage, set away to get cold, then serve ... (2) 
Finely shred white cabbage, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and a little sugar . . . 
(3) Take a firm green and a firm red cabbage, 
quarter them, soak in salted water for an hour, 
then steam them till tender, take out and cool; 
when cold, shred them very finely, arrange 
them on the serving dish alternately, two rows 
of each, placing between each centre row some 
salad cream dressing containing chopped cher- 
vil and shallots. 



cooled, then shred; mixed, then moistened with CAULIFLOWER SALAD (i) Cooked cauli- 



French dressing and served. 
ASPARAGUS SALAD (i) Two-inch lengths of 
cooked asparagus with the head; served on let- 
tuce leaves, the points piped with cream dress- 
ing or mayonnaise ... (2) Cooked asparagus 
heads; raw, skinned, sliced tomatoes. Place 
the asparagus in the centre of the dish, garnish 
with the tomatoes; serve with mayonnaise . . . 
(3) Flowerets of cooked cauliflower in centre of 
dish masked with cream dressing; garnished 
with asparagus points moistened with French 
dressing, decorate with capers ... (4) Flakes of 
cooker" salmon dipped in a thin Ravigote sauce, 



flower in flowerets in centre of dish, masked 
with mayonnaise, garnished with a macedoine 
of cooked vegetables dressed with French 
dressing ... (2) Flowerets of cooked cauli- 
flower in centre of dish masked with a sauce 
Remoulade; garnished with fancy cut strips of 
cooked and pickled beetroot. 
CELERY SALAD~(i) Cut the white celery in 
two-inch lengths like matches or macaroni; 
serve dressed with mayonnaise ... (2) White 
celery cut in dice, mixed with Livournaise 
sauce; served garnished with slices of stuffed 
olives. 



placed overlapping each other down centre of CHICORY SALAD Sbred chicory (endive), twc 

the dish; garnished with asparagus points, the parts, shred celery, one part, mixed, dressed 

tips of which should be piped with mayonnaise. and served with French dressing. 

... (5) Canned salmon drained; a spoonful in CODFISH SALAD Salt cod well soaked and 

centre of dish masked with a mayonnaise and boiled in two separate waters. coole<l, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



teKen free from bones; cold boiled potatoes 
sliced and mixed with the cod; seasoned with 
cream dressing, the salad then placed down the 
centre of dish; garnish the sides with finely 
shred lettuce seasoned with French dressing, 
the top of the salad to be garnished with 
shredded and filleted salted anchovies. 
CHICKEN SALAD (i) Make round chicken 
croquettes of white chicken, tongue, mush- 
rooms and truffles; bread, fry, let become cold, 
cut in halves and set around a bed of fine shred 
lettuce and endive ... (2) Equal parts of 
chicken and white celery cut in dice, seasoned 
with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, dressed with 
sliced eggs and mayonnaise ... (3) Take two 
parts of mayonnaise and one part of cold limpid 
aspic jelly and beat them together; decorate 
and line individual patty pans with the beaten 
mixture, allow them to set, then fill up with 
slices of chicken dressed with Remoulade 
sauce, a few capers and slices of stoned olives, 
cover with more of the beaten mixture, let set 
till firm, turn out on to a bed of shredded let- 
tuce, garnish with shredded anchovies and 
shredded gherkins. 

CHICKEN, MAYONNAISE OF Cold roast 
chickens, cut into joints, marinaded in a mix- 
ture of olive oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and 
pepper; taken up, drained, skinned, dipped in 
a mayonnaise; when well coated, lain on a bed 
of shredded lettuce, garnish with quartered 
eggs, balls of pickled beetroot and stoned, 
stuffed olives. . . (2) Boned and roasted chicken, 
pressed, sliced, coated with mayonnaise; served 
garnished with green peas and asparagus 
points sprinkled with French dressing, and 
cubes of savory chicken aspic. 
CRAB SALAD Fresh crab meat, to which is 
added one-fourth of its bulk in minced cold 
boiled cabbage; season with dry mustard, a 
dash of Worcestershire sauce and cream salad 
dressing. Fill the crab shells with the salad, 
place the shell on a curved lettuce leaf; decor- 
ate the salad in the shell with two rows of egg, 
chopped whites and yolks alternately. . . (2) 
Fresh crab meat cut in small dice, dressed with 
tarragon vinegar, salt, olive oil and cayenne 
pepper; served within a border of shredded 
lettuce; garnish with slices of stuffed olives and 
hard boiled eggs. . . (3) Make from fresh crab 
meat, some forcemeat balls the size of walnuts; 
when poached and cooled, coat them with a 
Remoulade sauce; serve them within a border 
of cold slaw, garnish with quartered hard boiled 
eggs and fancy strips of pickled beetroot. 
CUCUMBER SALAD Cucumbers peeled, sliced 
thin, steeped in salted ice water for two or 
three hours, taken up into a salad basket and 
swung dry; then place in a bowl and anoint 
them with French dressing containing chopped 



tarragon and parsley. . . (2) Peeled encumbers 
thinly sliced and steeped in salted ice water for 
an hour, then taken up into a salad basket and 
swung dry; then anoint them with a spray of 
tarragon vinegar, place in centre of dish, and 
garnish them with a few spring onions sliced 
and moistened with cream salad dressing. . . (3) 
Peeled cucumbers thinly sliced, steeped in 
salted ice water for an hour, taken up into a 
salad basket and swung dry; then anoint 
them with salt, pepper and a spray of caper 
vinegar; dish them up alternately with slices 01 
hard boiled eggs and pickled beetroot. 

DANDELION SALAD Fresh gathered young 
dandelion leaves (gathered before the sun 
shines on them in the morning too strongly), 
wiped clean WITHOUT BEING WASHED, 
seasoned with French dressing; served gar- 
nished with fancy slices of pickled beetroot. 

CRESS SALAD Arrange well washed, picked 
ovei and drained watercress on the serving 
dish, garnish with sliced eggs and filleted 
anchovies. 

EGG SALAD Hard boiled eggs, the yolks 
nibbed through a sieve, mixed with their equal 
weight of grated Parmesan cheese, seasoned 
with chopped chervil, salt, pepper and enough 
melted butter to moisten; fill the whites with 
the mixture, and lay them on a bed of shredded 
lettuce; garnish with peeled and sliced toma- 
toes, piped with Remoulade sauce. 

EEL SALAD Raw eels skinned and marinaded, 
then boiled and the bone removed; when cold, 
masked with mayonnaise, arranged in centre 
of dish garnished with sliced eggs and tufts of 
parsley. 

EGG PLANT SALAD Cold well boiled egg 
plant, cut in small dice and well seasoned with 
lemon juice and olive oil; served on a curled 
leaf of lettuce. 

ENDIVE SALAD Shred the leaves and cores of 
well washed endive, and serve it with French 
dressing made with tarragon vinegar, contain- 
ing a suspicion of garlic. 

FRENCH SALAD Cold roast meat (veal for 
preference), cut in small dice, mixed with 
shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned with 
French dressing, garnished with chopped 
whites of hard boiled egg. 

GARDENER'S SALAD Fine strips of vege- 
tables of various colors cooked and cooled, with 
green peas and cut stringless beans, all mixed 
together and dressed with salt, pepper, olive 
oil and vinegar, or with a thin mayonnaise. 

GERMAN SALAD Pickled red cabbage, 
blanched sauerkraut, small pickled onions, 
grated horseradish, chopped shallots, gherkins, 
diJl pickles and capers with sliced cold frank- 
furters, all mixed together, seasoned with 



152 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 



Rhine wine, salad oil, pepper and tarragon French dressing and garnished with peeled d 



vinegar. 

GERMAN POTATO SALAD Sliced cold boiled 
potatoes, minced parsley, fried diced bacon 
(with its fat thrown over the potatoes), pepper, 
salt, the whole well mixed with cream salad 
dressing. 

GAME SALAD Any kind of cold roast game 
skinned and cut into dice, mixed with shredded 
lettuce, shredded cooked carrots and a few raw 



sliced tomatoes, piped with a Remoulade sauce. 
... (5) Shred lettuce tossed with Remoulade 
sauce and minced capers; served garnished with 
peeled and sliced tomatoes sprayed with French 
dressing. 

LIMA BEAN SALAD Fresh green lima beans 
boiled, drained, cooled, moistened with a cream 
salad dressing; served garnished with water- 
cress sprayed with caper vinegar. 



minced shallots, season the whole with Tartare LOBSTER SALAD Two parts of diced lobster 



sauce; serve garnished with slices of pickled 
beetrcot, chopped eggs and small balls of but- 
ter and pounded watercress. . . (2) Cold roast 
game skinned and sliced, moistened with French 
dressing and allowed to marinade for three 
hours, arrange then on the serving platter, 
garnished with shredded lettuce, the whole 
then sprinkled over with chopped whites of egg 
and the yolks that have been rubbed through a 
sieve. 

HERRING SALAD Shredded boneless salted 
herrings and sardelles, mixed with thin sliced 
cold boiled potatoes, sliced dill pickles and 
gherkins, capers, chopped chives and shredded 
lettuce; placed on the serving platter and 
masked with a thin mayonnaise; garnish with 
filleted anchovies and slices or strips of pickled 
beetroot. . . (2) Blanched smoked herring, 
skinned, split, boned, cut up small, mixed with 
chopped eggs, minced onion, thin sliced cold 
boiled potatoes and chopped parsley, seasoned 



meat to one part of fine cut celery, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar, placed on 
platter and masked with mayonnaise; garnished 
with slices of hard boiled eggs and shredded 
lettuce. . . (2) Equal parts of diced lobster 
meat and diced cold boiled potatoes, mixed 
with cream salad dressing; served with cubes 
of steamed whites and yolks of eggs alternately 
as a garnish. . . (3) Slices of lobster meat 
dipped in Montpelier butter arranged down the 
centre of platter; served garnished with alter- 
nate tufts of watercress; sliced egg with yolk re- 
moved and its place filled with lobster coral; 
sliced cucumber, and small rings of onion, the 
interior of the ring filled with caviare. . . (4) 
Shredded lettuce and lobster meat, seasoned 
with oil, salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar, 
placed on platter and masked with mayonnaise, 
decorated with capers, sliced stuffed olives, 
lobster coral, quartered eggs, and watercress 
(also the small claws). 



with French dressing, garnished with pickled MACEDOINE SALAD Out of slices of cooked 



beetrcot and capers. 

ITALIAN SALAD Diced fowl mixed in cream 
salad dressing; served within a border of picked 
watercress and hearts of lettuce; garnish with 
slices of eggs, yolks removed, its place filled 
with a slice of beetroot. 

ITALIAN SALAD Cooked green peas 
fifths, small diced cooked carrot one-fifth, 
diced cooked white turnip one fifth, small cut 
cooked stringless beans one-fifth, all mixed to- 
gether. Then into a French dressing mix some 
chopped chervil, tarragon and chives; moisten 
the vegetables with this mixture, and serve 
garnished with slices of cold boiled potatoes 
and pickled beetroot. 



crrot, white and yellow turnip, and bottoms 
of artichokes, stamp fancy shapes, add to them 
cooked greeu peas and asparagus tips, also 
finely cut stringless beans, mix all together; 
serve on lettuce leaves, with French dressing 
and a few capers. 

two- OYSTER SALAD Oysters scalded and washed, 
cooled, served on lettuce leaf with Tartar sauce. 
... (2) Equal quantities of white celery and 
cabbage minced together and blanched, then 
cooled; oysters scalded with their own liquor, to 
which is added a little vinegar and salt, then 
drained and cooled; season the celery and cab- 
bage with a little oil and white vinegar, place 
it in centre of dish, dip the oysters in mayon- 
naise and surround the centre. 



KALE SALAD The small inside leaves of kale 

four-fifths, picked and washed watercress one- ONION SALAD Take either the Bermuda or 

fifth, mixed and served with French dressing. Spanish onion, peel them, slice in rings one- 

LETTUCE SALAD-Broad shred lettuce leaves, \ uar f ch * ick> Steam them , tiU half ^ 

sprinkled with salt and pepper, then sprayed with then , let them be > me ver ? cold ' serve on let ' 

mixedoliveoilandtarragon vinegar. . ^) Well tuce leaves - w ' th Rav 'g te sauce " 

washed and drained lettuce leaves finely shred OYSTER PLANT SALAD Cold boiled oyster 

and served with French dressing. . . (3) Broad P lant - cut in fin g er lengths; when very cold, 

shred lettuce leaves and finely shred spring season them with salt and pepper, dip the ends 

onions, sprinkled with salt and pepper, then in Ravigote sauce, arrange on fancy strips of 

sprayed with mixed olive oil and tarragon vin- cooled toast (like asparagus) and garnish with 

egar. . . (4) Finely shred lettuce seasoned with as P ic J ell y- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 153 

OKRA SALAD Okras blanched, drained and with salt and pepper to taste, then moisten with 

quartered; served on a bed of shredded endive; one part of vinegar to three parts of olive oil; 

pour over French dressing containing chopped serve on a bed of shredded lettuce and garnish 

chives and chervil. with eggs. 

PARTRIDGE SALAD Cold trimmed joints of SALSIFY SALAD Cold boiled salsify, mixed 

roast partridge, marinaded in tarragon vinegar with French dressing, in centre of dish, garn- 

and olive oil. (One in two add salt, pepper, ished with small balls of steamed potatoes 

minced chives and chervil); serve on a bed of moistened with cream dressing, 

shredded lettuce, pour the marinade over, SCOTCH SALAD Two parts of diced celery to 



the marinade over, 

garnish with sliced eggs, capers and gherkins. 
... (2) Cold roast partridge cut in dice, marin- 
aded for two hours in French dressing, drain 
it, then mix the partridge with an equal 
amount of diced white celery; place the salad 
on a leaf of lettuce, mask with a mayonnaise, 
garnish with minced pickle and chopped capers. 

POTATO SALAD Cold boiled potatoes sliced, 
little minced onion and chopped parsley, mixed 
and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vine- 
gar. . . (2) Slices of cold boiled potatoes, shred- 
ded salt anchovies, chopped parsley, pepper, 
salt, French mustard, tarragon vinegar and 
cream salad dressing, all mixed together and 
served on lettuce. . . (3) Sliced thin cold boiled 
potatoes, thoroughly mixed with French dress- 
ing, adding a little more vinegar. . . (4) Sliced 
cold boiled potatoes, sliced onion, chopped 
parsley, fried bacon in dice with its fat, salt, 
pepper and cream salad dressing, all mixed 
together and served on lettuce. . . (5) Balls of 
potatoes scooped from peeled raw ones, steamed 
till done, then cooled, moistened with Hollan- 
daise sauce; served on lettuce and sprinkled 
with finely chopped chives and chervil. 

ROMAINE SALAD Broad shredded Romaine 
lettuce leaves, sprinkled with salt, pepper, oil 
and tarragon vinegar. 

RUSSIAN SALAD Cooked salad of carrots, 
parsnips and beetroots cut in shapes; pieces of 
fowl and shredded anchovies, mixed together and 
seasoned with combined oil, vinegar and French 
mustard; served garnished with olives and 
caviar. 



one part of flakes of cooked salmon; season with 
oil, salt and vinegar; serve on lettuce, mask 
with mayonnaise, garnish with sliced egg and 
stuffed olives. 

SHR P SALAD Shrimps marinaded in oil 
and vinegar, drained, mixed with shredded 
celery in inch lengths, dressed with mayon- 
naise, garnished with stoned olives, capers, 
hard boiled eggs and coiled shrimps. 

SPANISH SALAD Peeled tomatoes sliced and 
arranged on dish with pickled small white 
onions, mayonnaise in centre. . . (2) Shredded 
endive garnished with quartered peeled toma- 
toes and quartered eggs, yolk removed and its 
place iilled with shrimp paste. The endive to 
be sprinkled with minced sweet peppers and 
shallots, oil, salt, pepper and vinegar. 

SOUTHERN SALAD Take tender okras, trim 
the ends, boil till tender, drain, let become 
very cold. Dip some sweet peppers in hot fat 
and take off the skins, then finely shred them 
like matches, mix them with the okras and 
serve with mayonnaise. . . (2) Boil till done 



some green peppers, let them become very cold, 
then shred them like matches and serve with 
French dressing. 

SWEDISH SALAD Cut into dice an equal 
quantity of cold meat, boiled potatoes, green 
apples, pickled herring and salted anchovies, 
mix into it some chopped gherkins, capers and 
hard boiled eggs, mix all; serve on lettuce with 
French dressing and garnish with stoned olives. 

. (2) Cooked ham, smoked tongue, roast SWEETBREAD SALAD-SI ices of cooked sweet- 
bread dipped in flour, fried with butter, then 
cooled and trimmed; shredded lettuce in centre 
of disb with salad cream dressing; sweetbreads 
masked with mayonnaise, arranged around the 
lettuce; garnish with slices of radishes and 
beetroot. 



beef, chicken and mutton cut in dice, shredded 

salt anchovies; season and mix with Tartar 

sauce;serve within a border of shredded lettuce. 
RADISH SALAD Take round red and white 

radishes, thoroughly clean them, then cut in 

halves, arrange the halves alternately, skin 

side up, on a bed of shredded lettuce, sprinkle TARTARE SALAD Shredded lettuce, pickled 

cucumbers, pickled onions and pickled her- 
ring; slice the cucumbers and cut the herring 
in dice, mix together, season with a little oil 



with French dressing and garnish with stuffed 
olives. 



and vinegar, and finish with Tartare sauce* 
serve on lettuce. 



SARDINE SALAD Hard boiled eggs and boiled 
onions in slices, sardines in fillets, dished up in 
alternate layers, sprinkled with French dress- 
ing containing chopped parsley, chives and TOMATO SALAD Sliced peeled tomatoes mar- 
chervil. inaded in French dressing, drained, sprinkled 

SALMON SALAD Equal quantities of cooked 
beet and raw celery minced, then mixed to- 



gether; boiled salmon in flakes added; season 



with salt and pepper. . . (2) Sliced peeled to- 
matoes sprinkled with Parmesan cheese mois- 
tened with Rhine wine and olive oil. 



154 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



VEAL SALAD Equal quantiti.ss of cooked veal 
and boiled potatoes cut in dice with some white 
celery; seasoned with salt, pepper and cream 
salad dressing; served on lettuce, garnished 
with eggs. 

WATERCRESS SALAD Crisp, cleaned and 
picked watercress, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and vinegar. 

COMBINATION SALADS Slices of cold boiled 
potatoes, Brussels sprouts boiled and cooled, 
flowerets of boiled cauliflower, and shredded 
celery, arranged neatly in salad bowl with 
trench dressing. . . (2) Shred lettuce, endive, 
sliced tomatoes, spring onions and radishes, 
tossed lightly together with French dressing. . . 
(3) Slices of potatoes even in size, slices of 
truffles and minced shallots, dressed with oil 
and caper vinegar. . . (4) Yolks of eggs rubbed 
through a sieve, chopped egg whites, gherkins, 
chervil and soy, mixed with a little dressing 
composed of French mustard, essence of an- 
chovies, pepper and white wine vinegar, garn- 
fshed with sliced potatoes, beetroot and celery. 

FRENCH DRESSING Four parts of olive oil 
to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a lit- 
tle onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt and 
pepper. 

CREAM DRESSING One cup each of white 
vinegar and melted butter, one dessert spoon of 
dry mustard, one teaspoon of paprika, eight 
yolks of eggs, one quart of whipping cream. 
Boil the vinegar, butter and seasonings to- 
gether; pour it ihen to the beaten yolks, stir 
over the range till like custard, remove and 
cool, then whip the cream and beat it into the 
dressing. 

HOLLANDAISE DRESSING One pint of 
white vinegar, one quart of milk, one cup of oil 
or melted butter, one basting spoonful of dry 
mustard, one teaspoon of red pepper, one 
tablespconful of paprika, twelve eggs, salt to 
taste. Boil the vinegar with the seasonings; 
meanwhile separate the yolks and whites, and 
beat them separately; bring the milk to the boil 
and pour it to the yolks, then add the boiling 
vinegar, stir on the range till it just thickens 
like mstard (do not let it boil or it will curdle). 
\Viien of the custard consistency, remove from 
the fire and beat in the whipped whites with 
ue melted butter or oil, then put away to cool 
lor use. 

SALAMANDER Name given to a heated iron 
plate used for quickly browning the gratinated 
surface of certain dishes of escalloped foods, 
etc. In some kitchens the dish is placed on the 
ashes under the hot bars of the grate; in others 
a small shovel is made hot. Where there is a 
gas oven with a top cooking surface the dish 
may be placed under the grill. All tend to the 
same purpose, thai or quickly obtaining a 



brown surface without further cooking the in- 
terior. 

SALMI SALMIS These two words each sig- 
nify a form of stew, and seldom are they prop- 
erly used. It is always applied to game. 
SALMIS is used when the stew is made from 
cold cooked game that has been left over from 
a previous meal. SALMI is a stew made from 
fresh cooked game specially roasted at the time 
required to make the stew for the coming meal. 

SALLY LUNN Name applied to a light sweet 
yeast raised tea cake; served split and buttered, 
fresh and hot. 

SALMON, BOILED If small, boil whole; if 
large cut in two or three. Put to boil in boil- 
ing salted water, laying the fish on a drainer, 
boil a minute, raise the drainer, let the water 
boil very rapidly, then plunge fish and drainer 
in again, then repeat the operation and allow 
to boil till done. By this method the albumen 
of the fish coagulates and the flesh eats much 
better. Serve with plain melted butter, Hol- 
landaise, Allemande, caper, Bechamel, fennel, 
cream or butter parsley sauce. 

SALMON, BAKED The fish should be small. 
Scale, trim, wash and dry it, turn the thin flap 
of the belly inwards and tie it with thin twine; 
cover the fish then with a fish forcemeat; bake 
and baste till done; serve in portions with 
Genoise or Perigueux sauces. 

SALMON, BROILED Scale, trim, wash and 
dry the fish, then cut in equally thick slices, 
season with cayenne pepper and salt, dip in 
olive oil, roll up in oiled paper, tuck in the ends 
and pin with a toothpick, plunge into hot fat 
and cook for 7 to 10 minutes according to the 
thickness, then raise the frying basket, let it 
drain for a minute; then put the cutlet, still in 
the paper, on the broiler, broil till nicely 
marked, remove the paper, place on dish; serve 
with Tartar, Genevoise, fine-herbs or mSitre 
d'h6tel sauces or with anchovy or Montpelier 
butter. 

SALMON STEAKS OR CUTLETS Boil them 
in boiling seasoned white fish stock till done 
and serve with lobster, oyster, cucumber or 
supreme sauces. Saute them with clear butter 
a delicate brown and serve with Aurora, Milan- 
aise, Veloute, gherkin, piquante, or ravigote 
sauces. 

SALMON (COLD, BOILED) May be served 
with sliced cucumbers, Tartar, ravigote or 
mayonnaise sauces. 

SALMON CROQUETTES Take flakes of cold 
boiled salmon and shred them, season with red 
pepper and salt, also a dash each of anchovy 
and Harvey sauces. Then mix the fish wifh 
one-third of its bulk of fresh mashed potatoes; 
turn on to a dish, smooth it over, allow to be- 
come cold, then shape pieces of the mixture 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



155 



into small flat cutlets like a cutlet from the 
tail of the fish; bread and fry them and serve 
with cream or fennel sauces, garnish with Hol- 
landaise potatoes. 

SALMON, SMOKED May be boiled and served 
with cream sauce. . . Broiled and served with 
devil or drawn butter sauce. . . Fried in oil and 
served with lemon sauce. . . Toasted and served 
with maitre d'hotel sauce. 

SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF Take the center 
cut of a salmon, curl the flaps under and tie with 



cayenne pepper, some pounded anchovies of 
anchovy essence. Used for boiled fish such as: 
boiled bass, cod, plaice, haddock, halibut, her- 
ring, kingfish, pike, rockfish, weakfish, and shd 
roe. 

ANDALUSIAN SAUCE Into a rich tomate 
sauce, work some grated lean cooked ham, and 
a little minced (fried) garlic. Used with braised 
meats, such as larded tenderloin of beei, fri- 
candeau of veal, legs or saddles of mutton, and 
haunch of venison. 



twine, boil in seasoned fish stock till done, re- APRICOT SAUCE A syrup sauce containing 
move and skin, then allow to become cold apricct marmalade and a flavoring of Catawba 
(retaining its shape), place on dish, mask well wine. Used for timbale of apples, charJotte of 
with mayonnaise, decorate the mayonnaise with apples, apple puddings, apple fritters, 
lobster coral, garnish with watercress; serve. AVIGNON SAUCE Equal quantities of a Sou- 

bise puree" and a good Bechamel sauce com- 
bined together with the addition of a little 
crushed garlic, Parmesan cheese and olive oil; 
bring it to the boil, then thicken with a liaison 
of egg yolks, strain and use for boiled legs of 
mutton, boiled fowls and capons, stewed part- 
ridge, boiled pheasant, boiled salt leg of pork, 
fried sweetbreads, chicken croquettes, sweet- 
bread croquettes, 
pickerel . . . pike or muskallonge . . . boiled 

sheephead . . . boiled weakfish . . . Mackinaw AURORA SAUCE-Into some reduced Espag- 

nole sauce work enough lobster butter to give 



SALSIFY For recipes, see "Oyster plant". 
SAUERKRAUT See "cabbage". 

SAUCES AND THEIR USES. 

ADMIRAL SAUCE Into a good butter sauce 
made with white seasoned fish stock, work 
some pounded anchovies, minced fried shal- 
lots, chopped capers, o.. d a. little grated lemon 
rind. . . Serve with bluefish saute . . . boiled 



trout. 

ALBERT SAUCE Into a good butter sauce 
made from veal or other white stock, work some 
grated horseradish, minced fried shallots, 
chopped parsley, tarragon vinegar; boil up 
again, then strain, then finish with a liaison of 
egg yolks, a pinch of mustard and chopped 
parsley. Serve with braised fillet of beef, 
any braised beef. . . It is also used to poach 
eggs in when an addition of curry is given to it 
for "Eggs Indienne style". See eggs. 

ALLEMANDE SAUCE Into a good Veloute 
sauce, work some lemon juice, a little mush- 
room catsup, cayenne, butter, yolks of eggs, a 
grating of nutmeg, then strain. It should be 
yellow, and smooth as velvet. Serve with 
boiled pig's feet . . . braised eels . . . fried carp 
. . . paupiettes of sole . . . boiled codfish . . 
fried haddock . . . fried fillets of mackerel . . \ 
baked perch . . . baked shad . . . baked trout 
. . . boiled chicken . . . boiled pheasant . . . fried 
pike. It is also the foundation of many other 
sauces, fish especially. 

ALMOND SAUCE A sweet custard sauce con- 
taining pounded and shredded almonds, also a 
dash of ratafia. Served with fig fritters . . . 
almond custard fritters, etc. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE Anchovy butter worked in- 
to a good Espagnole sauce. Used for broiled 
steaks, baked fish, and as a filler for steak and 
oyster pie. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE Into a well made butter 
aauce work in the juice of a lemon, a dash of 



the sauce an orange color ... Or work lobster 
butter into a Bechamel sauce ... Or take two 
parts Bechamel and one part tomato sauce, 
adding also a little mushroom catsup and lob- 
ster butter. In either of these combinations 
add the juice of a lemon, a dash of cayenne 
pepper and tarragon vinegar. Used for baked 
carp, boiled cod steak, baked fillets of soles, 
halibut steak saute, salmon steak saute, fillets 
of trout saute", boiled trout; also used in pre- 
paring "eggs a 1'Aurore" (see Eggs). 

BAVARIAN SAUCE Boil some vinegar to half 
its original volume with some butter, a little 
horseradish, salt and grated nutmeg; beat some 
yolks of eggs, then pour the boiling mixture to 
it to make like mayonnaise, strain, then beat 
in a little more butter, and some lobster roe, 
beat till creamy and frothy, then use for cold 
fish, and fish salads. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE Into some reduced cl?. : ck' 
en broth, add some mushroom essence or puree", 
an equal quantity of rich milk or cream, a season- 
ing of mace; bring to the boil, then thicken with 
roux (flour and butter), strain. Used for boile* 
chicken, scalloped codfish, scalloped halibut, 
scalloped turbot, scalloped sweetbreads;chickeru 
turkey and sweetbread croquettes: also for mix- 
ing with green peas, asparagus points, mace- 
doine of vegetables, etc. when used for garnish- 
ing. 

BEARNAISE SAUCE Braise some shallotr 
with a little tarragon vinegar, add some rich- 
thin Veloute sauce, simmer, then add some 



I 5 6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

beaten yolks of eggs; when like custard, re- croquettes, roast capon, omelet of chicken liv- 

move from the fire, then beat in melted butter ers, and quenelles of turkey. 

at the rate of three tablespoons to the pint, BRETONNE SAUCE, HOT Into some Espag- 

work in the juice of a lemon, a little cayenne nole, work a pure< of fried onions, finish with 

pepper, then strain and finish with some finely chopped parsley. Used with roast mutton, 

chopped parsley and tarragon. Used for braised saddle of mutton, cutlets of mutton, 

broiled steaks, roast fillet of beef, broiled braised ox cheek, and grenadins of pork. 

sweetbreads, lamb fries, veal and lamb cutlets. BRETONNE SAUCE, COLD A spoonful each 

BEYROUT SAUCE Fetch to the boil one and a of mustard and sugar, with two spoonfuls of 

half pounds of butter with two minced medium grated horseradish, worked into a half pint of 

sized onions, a basting spoonful of tarragon vine- tarragon vinegar. Used with cold roast or 

gar and the same of common vinegar, a half pint braised mutton, beef, ox tongue, roast pork, 

of Espagnole, a half cupful each of mushroom e tc. 

catsup and Harvey sauce; simmer, skim, then CAPER SAUCE Into a good butter or Veloute 

boil till creamy, remove from the fire, finish sauce> work in some whole capers and a little 

with a litcle sugar and anchovy essence. Used tarragon vinegar. Used with boiled mutton, 

with cold fish and fish salads. boiled fresh ox tongue and boiled pigs feet 

BIGARADE SAUCE- -Take equal quantities of C APER SAUCE FOR FISH Make a white 

game and Espagnole sauces, and work in the rouXi moisten it with a light CO nsomm<, season 

juice and grated rind of Seville or other bitter it with cayennei grated nutm eg, essence of 

orange. Used for braised fillet of beef, stewed anc hovies, lemon juice, and capers, with a dash 

duck, fried duckling, roast duck. of caper vinegar. Used with broiled salmon 

BOHEMIAN SAUCE Make some panada with ste ak, broiled carp, baked codfish, boiled red 

chicken or veal broth, and work into it some mullet, boiled pike, boiled sheephead, boiled 

grated horseradish and a little butter. (A re d snapper, boiled shad, and braised salmon 

white bread sauce, used with roast partridge). trout. 

BOUERGOISE SAUCE Into a pint of thin CARROT SAUCE Into some Veloutfe sauce 

Espagnole, work a spoonful each of chopped WO rk a pure of young carrots. Very good for 

parsley, chervil, tarragan, meat glaze, French boiled beef. 

mustard and sugar, bring it to a simmer, then CARDINAL SAUCE-Into a good Veloute sauce 

add the juice of a lemon. Used with forcemeat work some lobster butteri a little anc hovy es- 

balls; in garnishing fricandeaus of veal, car- sence lemon j uice) cayennei essence of mush- 

bonades of mutton, roulade of veal. sautS of rooms> ^ lobster roe or shrimps> rubbed 

pigs feet (boneless), and braised ox heart. through a tamis. Used with boiled chicken 

BOURGIGNOTTE SAUCE Into some Espag- and caponi bou dins of lobster, paupiettes of 

nole, work some minced fried onions, sliced so i e s, ragout of mullets, fillets of perch, stuffed 

truffles and mushrooms, finish with some Bur- and bra i se d carp and pike, boiled salmon, fillets 

gundy wine. Used with braised small game o f turbo t and halibut, fillets of soles and boiled 

birds, braised carp, whole carp stewed in red sturgeon. 

wine fried cutlets of sturgeon mutton cutlets CAULIFLOWER SAUCE-Into a good butter 



butter sauce work some minced fried shallots, 

chopped parsley and white wine. Used with CELERY SAUCE, WHITE-Into some hght 

matelote of eels, paupiettes of soles, boiled Allemande sauce work a puree of celery. Good 

mackerel, crimped cutlets of pike, boiled hali- with boiled turke y and white entre<5s of turke y 

but, turbot. wings. 

BORDELAISE SAUCE, BROWN-Into some CELERY SAUCE, BROWN-Into a good thick- 

Espagnole, work some minced fried shallots, ened roast poultry gravy work in some finely 

and garlic, red wine, cayenne pepper, chopped cut celer y and simmer it till done. Very good 

parsley, lemon juice and slices of beef marrow . * roast poultry, and dry, brown entrees of 

Used with broiled steaks and almost any braised poultry. 

red meat . . . Omit the marrow and add fillets CHASSEUR SAUCE Into equal parts of Es- 

of anchovies and a little anchovy essence, it is pagnole and tomato sauces, work some minced 

then used with braised fish, also baked and fried onions, sliced mushrooms, chopped pars- 

broiled fish. ley and lemon juice. Used with mutton cut- 

BRESSOISE SAUCE Into some Madeira sauce, lets sautee"s, saut of partridge, veal cutlets, 

work a puree 1 made of chicken livers, panada, roast prairie chicken, roast black game, braised 

fried minced shallots, grated rind and juice of small game birds, venison steak, cutlets of roe- 

an orange. Used with roast chicken, chicken buck, roast young rabbit, 'egs of rabbit saute, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



157 



fillets of hare or jackrabbit, and braised larded 
ribs of beef. 

CHANTAUSEN SAUCE A syrup sauce flav- 
ored with cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and 
Chantausen wine. Used for puddings and 
sweet entree's. 

CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE One pint of Es- 
pagnole, a half pint of meat glaze, a half pint 
of white wine, simmer, strain, then beat in a 
half pint of maitre d'hotel sauce. Used with 
broiled steaks, fillets of beef. 

CHAMBORD SAUCE Into a pint of Veloute, 
work a half pint of white mushroom puree, a 
piece of chicken glaze, a glass of sauterne, and 
a spoonful of lobster butter. Used with fillets 
of bass, baked bass, pike, carp, fish croquettes. 

CHAMPAGNE SAUCE Into a pint of Espag- 
nole, simmer a half pint each of sherry wine 
and vinegar with a little sugar. Good with 
roast ham. 

CHADEAU SAUCE A foaming sauce of eight 
yolks and two whites of eggs, juice of a lemon, 
half a pound of sugar, a quart of chablis, 
whipped over a slow fire to boiling point. Used 
for sweet entree's. 

CHAUDFROID SAUCE Take some carcasses 
of roast game or poultry and a bunch of mixed 
garden herbs, cover with good stock, simmer 
for several hours, strain, skim, boil up again 
and add enough gelatine to make a brown 
jellied gravy. Used with roast poultry. 

CHERRY SAUCE Sweet, butter sauce, con- 
taining cherries that have been stewed with 
port wine and sugar, then rubbed through a 
sieve. Used for sweet entree's. 

CHEVREUIL SAUCE Into one-third part Es- 
pagnole sauce, one-third tomato sauce and one- 
third stock, add a little thyme, a bunch of pars- 
ley, two or three bay leaves, some minced fried 
shallots, a spoonful of white pepper, some tar- 
ragon vinegar and butter; reduce it to one-half 
of its original bulk, strain, finish with currant 
jelly, Harvey sauce and port wine. Used with 
roebuck and venison, roasted, filleted, braised, 
etc. 

CHILI SAUCE Chop together six tomatoes, 
four green peppers, one onion, add them to a 
pint of white wine vinegar, with one teaspoon 
of sugar and a little salt, simmer for one hour, 
strain, bottle. Used as a table condiment. 

CHILI SAUCE Into a good Bechamel sauce, 
work some minced red peppers, tomatoes, shal- 
lots and minced parsley, finish with melted 
batter, catawba wine and lime juice. Good 
with veal cutlets, pork tenderloins, boneless 
pigs feet, stewed catfish, lamb fries, fricadelles, 
broiled beef palates, pickled lamb tongues. 

CLAREMONT SAUCE Minced onions fried in 



oil, drained, then added to a thick veal gravy. 
Good with roast veal. 

CLARET SAUCE A foaming sauce of grated 
lemon rind, powdered cinnamon, eggs, sugar and 
claret, whipped over a slow fire to boiling 
point. Used with puddings and sweet entrees. 

COLBERT SAUCE Into a pint of Espagnole, 
work in a spoonful of meat glaze, a little cay- 
enne, lemon juice and chopped parsley, make 
very hot, but do not boil, then very gradually 
beat in a cupful of melted butter. Used with 
broiled meats, and most cutlets. 

COURT - BOUILLON SAUCE Into a butter 
sauce that has been made from the stock of 
boiled fish, add some rings of boiled onions and 
chopped parsley. Used with boiled codfish, 
boiled haddock, braised eels, boiled rockfisb, 
boiled plaice, boiled weakfish, boiled redsnap- 
per, and boiled salmon trout. 

CRAPAUDINE SAUCE Take equal quantities 
of Espagnole and tomato sauces, combine them, 
then add some minced gherkins, shallots, chives, 
olives and capers, a little mustard, tarragon 
vinegar, minced mushrooms and a glass of 
sherry wine. Used with braised brisket of 
beef, broiled pork chops, frog legs, boiled calf's 
head, broiled pigeons, fried saddles of rabbit, 
calf's liver saut6, braised fillets of hare, broiled 
opossum, braised turtle fins, and venison. 

CREOLE SAUCE Into a good tomato sauce, 
work in some chopped blanched sweet peppers, 
minced fried shallots, a little Madeira sauce 
and Madeira wine. Used with scallops of fillet 
of beef, ragout of beef, chicken saute, pork 
rissoles, honeycomb tripe cut in finger lengths 
and stewed down rich in it, catfish steak saute, 
tomatoes stuffed with crab meat, fried oysters, 
timbales of spaghetti, boiled spaghetti with 
minced ham made hot in it, broiled pork kid- 
neys and lamb fries, pork tenderloins, fried 
spareribs, veal chops sautees, timbale of calf 
brains, croquettes of beef, beef sweetbreads 
sautees, minced mutton cutlets. 

CREVETTE SAUCE Into a cardinal sauce 
work some pieces of shrimps and anchovies. 
Used with boiled crimped codfish, boiled plaice 
and flounders, fillets of Spanish mackerel, 
boiled trout and whitefish, fried soles. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE Into a good butter sauce 
work a puree of cucumbers or some slices of 
encumber fried with butter. Good for boilec 1 
salmon and trout. 

CURRY SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce, boil r 
ham knuckle for an hour, then remove anr. 
work in a liaison of egg yolks beaten with curry 
powder; simmer, strain. Used with pork chops, 
pork tenderloin, fried veal chops and cutlets, 
and tripe. 

CZARINA SAUCE Into some Espagnole work 
the juice of a lemon, some minced gherkins and 



I 5 8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 



seedless raisins, boil till the fruit is soft, then 
serve with boiled ox tongue. 

CURACOA SAUCE A butter syrup sauce con- 
taining curacoa. Used with puddings and some 
sweet entrees in the fritter line. 

CUSTARD SAUCE Boiling milk or cream 
poured to and whipped in to half a pound of 
sugar and six beaten eggs to each quart of milk; 
flavored as desired, but generally with nutmeg 
or vanilla. Used with puddings and sweet 
en tree's. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE-Cranberries stewed with 
tugar tih soft, then rubbed through a sieve. 
Used with roast turkey. 

DIABLE SAUCE Three tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, three of meat glaze, one of 
sugar, half a cupful of mushroom catsup, and 
the same of white wine, juice of a lemon, and 
enough cayenne pepper to make it as hot as its 
name implies; thoroughly incorporate while 
making it hot, but do not allow it to boil. Used 



with broiled steaks, broiled kidneys, broiled 

ham steaks, broiled live lobster, broiled pork FINE HERBS SAUCE 



veal, a shin of beef, and let them fry brown; 
then add slices of carrots, onions, turnips, cel- 
ery, parsiey, thyme, marjoram, savory, bay 
leaves, cloves, allspice, peppers; when browned, 
add sufficient flour to form a roux. Let the 
flour brown also Then moisten gradually with 
a rich clear brown stock; boil up and skim, 
then add plenty of tomatoes; boil and skim 
again, then add two or three chickens (old ones, 
useful for salad afterward) or roast fowl car- 
casses; simmer slowly for several hours, then 
strain off into a clean sautoir; then add a gallon 
of consomme", and reduce rapidly till of a good 
consistency; strain off again and finish with good 
sherry wine. This is one of the grand stock 
sauces which form the basis of most of the 
brown sauces used. YOU CANNOT BE TOO 
PARTICULAR IN ITS PREPARATION, 
FOR IF THE FIRST PROCESS IS NOT 
SUCCESSFULLY EFFECTED, NO SUB- 
SEQUENT CARE WILL REMEDY THE 
MISCHIEF. 



Saut^ together with 



chops and spareribs. 

DIABLE SAUCE Another way of making is to 
take one-third stock and two-thirds of good 
Espagnole, and work into them some Worces- 
tershire sauce, cayenne pepper and made mus- 
tard, then simmer and strain. 

DIPLOMATE SAUCE Into a good Bechamel 
sauce, work some crayfish butter and a little 
court-bouillon. Good for most boiled white 
fleshed fish. 

DUCHESSE SAUCE Into a pint of tomato 



butter some minced parsley, shallots and mush- 
rooms, season with a little pepper and nutmeg; 
after about five minutes, pour off the waste 
butter, and add a ladle of good Espagnole 
if for brown, or a ladle of good Veloute sauce 
if for white. Used with scallops of mutton, 
scallops of hare and rabbit, fried reed and rice 
birds, saute" of soles, brook trout baked in cases 
of paper spread with the sauce, roulade of beef , 
stuffed calf's heart, roulade of veal, veal chops 
and cutlets, broiled steaks, brains, sweetbreads, 
lamb fries. 



sauce work in half a pint of lean cooked ham FENNEL SAUCE Into a good butter sauce, 
in small dice, half a cupful of white wine, a work a spO onful of chopped fennel leaves, 
little glaze, bring to the boil, remove from the 



fire, and then beat in a half pint of Hollandaise 
sauce. Used with pork, veal and mutton chops> 
plain macaroni, Vienna steaks, pork tenderloin 
and spareribs, ham croquettes, fried tripe, epi- 
gramme of sweetbreads, braised breast of veal, 
roulade of mutton, fried boneless pigs feet 
breaded, rechauffe of mutton, fried chicken 

D'UXELLES SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce, 
work some white wine, minced mushrooms, 
grated tongue and chopped parsley ... Or else 
use Bechamel sauce and work in minced pars- 
ley, shallots, mushrooms and grated ham. It 
is used for coating cutlets prior to their being 
breaded and fried. 

EGG SAUCE Into a butter sauce, work in some 
chopped hard boiled eggs and the juice of a 
lemon. Useful for all kinds of plain boiled 
fish. 

ESPAGNOLE SAUCE Two pounds of good 
cooking butter placed in the bottom of a large 
sautoir; into it then place, chopped in good 
sized pieces, two ham knuckles, three shins of 



Looks like parsley sauce. Used with boiled 
mackerel and boiled salmon. 

FINANCIERS SAUCE Into a quart of good 
Espagnole, work a little meat glaze, cayenne, a 
half pint of Madeira wine, a half pint of mush- 
room liquor or mushroom catsup, and a few 
minced mushrooms and truffles Used with 
roast or braised black game and grouse, . . . 
boudins of game, . . . sauteed fillets of fowls, 
. . . larded and braised legs of fowls, . . . boned, 
stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, . . . paupi- 
ettes of ox palates, . . . for heating a salmis of 
partridge, . . . for a filling to raised pies of 
game, rabbits and quails, . . . roast pheasant, 
. . . boned, stuffed and braised quails, . . . 
larded and braised fillets of rabbits, . . . braised 
sweetbreads, . . . turkey stuffed with veal force- 
meat and roasted, . . . veal chops larded and 
braised, . . . larded and braised fricandeau of 
veal, . . . larded and braised woodcocks. 

FLEMISH SAUCE (i) Into a butter sauce, 
work a little grated nutmeg, chopped parsley 
tarragon vinegar, and a liaison of yolk of eggs 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



159 



with a little mustard. (2) Make a quart of veg- thick, work in half a pint of brandy and a grat- 
etable cream sauce, then take a cupful of the ing of nutmeg. A good pudding sauce, 
red part of carrot, mince it, boil till done, add GOOSEBERRY SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce, 
it to the sauce, together with some chopped work a pure 6 O f stewed green gooseberries. It 

is liked by many with boiled mackerel. 
HAM SAUCE Into a Madeira sauce, work some 

minced shallots and grated ham that have been 

fried together, finish with the juice of a lemon. 

Used with roast veal. 



cucumber, pickles, parsley and grated horse 

radish. Used with boiled beef. 
FUMET SAUCE Into a good Espagnole, boi' 

some game carcasses, strain and finish with 

port wine. Used with roast game. 
GENEVOISE SAUCE-Into a good Espagnole, HANOVER SAUCE-Take chicken livers and 

add a little grated ham, carrots, minced onions, boil them< ^^ rub throagh the tamiS| add 

a few bay leaves, cloves, a clove of garlic, some 



thyme and parsley, boil fifteen minutes, add 
some claret wine, strain, and finish by beating 
in anchovy essence and butter to taste. Used 
with braised eels, baked pike, broiled salmon, 
broiled red snapper, fricandeau of sturgeon, 
baked trout, baked whitefish, brook trout, 
braised sheephead, baked pickerel, baked Span- 
ish mackerel, baked and stuffed bluefish, black- 
fish saute. 

GENOISE SAUCE Equal quantities of Espag- 
nole and court-bouillon sauces boiled together 



cream sauce, lemon juice and a dash of cay- 
enne, little salt, make hot but do not boil. Used 
with roast poultry. 

HARROGATE SAUCE After roasting veal and 
poultry, take the roasting pan, add sonv* 
minced shallots and grated lemon rind, bak 
till shallots are brown, then add some flour and 
stir it with the residue in the pan from tht 
roasting, moisten with stock to the proper con- 
sistency of sauce, then add some mushroom 
catsup, cayenne, claret wine and lemon juice, 
boil up, strain and skim. Used with roast veal 
and poultry. 



for ten minutes with the addition of some port 

wine, ground mace, essence of anchovies and AT ,T^ ATT /-.T- ^ 

walnuf catsup, then strain, finish with a little HARD SAUCE-One pound of powdered sugar 

chopped parsley. Used with larded and braised 

eels, fillets of bluefish, roast carp, baked cod 



steak, roast eels, baked haddock, baked Span- 



******* UDCeS f g d butter worked to ~ 
ff th ? r *&<*"** Some add grated nutmeg. 

Used wlth P lum P uddin *' 

ish mackerel, baked mullet, braised pike and HA VRAISE SAUCE- Make a good butter sauce 
pickerel, baked salmon, braised sheephead, with stron g broth from boiled fish, then beat 
broiled fillets of red snapper, baked sturgeon, in * liaison of egg yolks and cream. Good for 
baked trout, baked or braised carp, boiled char, a11 P lain fi sh boiled. 
matelote of eels, broiled mackerel, boiled HOLLANDAISE SAUCE One cupful each of 



salmon steak, roast turbot and halibut. 

GERMAN SAUCE A foaming sauce, made of 
twelve eggs beaten fifteen minutes. Now place 
into a sautoir half a pound of powdered sugar 
and a pint of Marsala wine, make hot, but do 
not boil, then beat in the eggs with the juice of 
a couple of lemons, whip till thick and frothy 
without boiling. A rich pudding sauce. 

GIBLET SAUCE The trimmed and finely shred 
gizzards, livers and hearts of poultry stewed 
tender and added to the thickened and strained 
gravy of roast poultry and served with it. 

GODARD SAUCE Fry some slices of ham, car- 
rots and onions in butter till brown, then add a 
quart of good cider, simmer for half an hour, 
then add a can of mushrooms minced, and their 
liquor, reduce for ten minutes, then strain it 
into a quart of good Espagnole, and boil till 
creamy. Used with braised fowls, braised 
capons, braised turkey, roast ham, boned, 
stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, braised leg 
of mutton, carbonade of mutton. 

GOLDEN SAUCE (Sauce Doree*) Half a pound 
of butter beaten till very creamy; into it dis- 
solve half a pound of powdered sugar, now beat 
in the yolks of two eggs over the fire; when 



white vinegar and butter, a half cup of lemon 
juice, two cupfuls of chicken stock, little salt 
and cayenne, boil, then pour it, beating the 
while, to a liaison of egg yolks till thick like 
custard. Used with boiled sea bass, boiled cod- 
fish and haddock, fillets of codfish, boiled eels, 
boiled plaice and flounders, boiled halibut, 
boiled kingfish, boiled perch, boiled rockfish, 
boiled salmon, boiled sheephead, boiled weak- 
fish, boiled sturgeon, boiled whitefish, cauli- 
flower, asparagus. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE Fresh grated horse- 
radish boiled in white stock, seasoned with 
pepper and nutmeg, then is worked in a liaison 
of egg yolks and tarragon vinegar. MUST 
NOT BOIL after liaison is added. Used with 
boiled beef, broiled steaks . . . Another form 
for roast beef is to add the grated root to 
thickened and strained roast beef gravy, add- 
ing a little Worcestershire sauce . . . Again, 
for cold roast beef, simply grated horseradish 
seasoned with salt and white vinegar. Some 
add to this a little cream sauce. 

INDIENNE SAUCE Braise together some ham 
trimmings, a few anchovies, onions, green 
apples, thyme and whole peppers, then add 



i6o 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



curry powder to taste, fill up with Veloute 
sauce, boil, add the juice of a lemon and a few 
beaten yolks, beat till creamy, then strain for 
use with pork chops, pork tenderloin, fried veal 
chops and cutlets, fried tripe, fried chicken, 
roast veal, fried calf's head, fried sweetbreads 
and lamb fries, cannelons of ox palates, fried 
pigs feet, fried saddles of rabbit. 

ITALIAN SAUCE, WHITE Into a Veloute 
sauce, work some minced and fried shallots and 
mushrooms, chopped parsley and white wine. 
For ITALIAN SAUCE, BROWN, substitute 
Espagnole for Veloute, and Madeira for the 
white wine. Used with calf's head, boiled 
calf's tongue, broiled calf's liver, fried pigs 
feet, attereaux of rabbit, broiled tripe, stuffed 
turkey legs, sautee'd artichokes, braised black 
game and grouse, fried calf's feet, capilotade 
of chicken, boiled chicken, boudins of salmon, 
sautee'd fillets of haddock, fried larks, rice and 
reed birds, roast pheasant, croquettes of rabbit, 
chicken and turkey, fried skate, boiled trout, 
fillets of turbot and halibut, scallops of veal 
and ham, breaded pork tenderloin. 

JARDINIERE SAUCE Take a small column 
cutter and cut out columns of carrots, white 
and yellow turnips; slice them quarter inch 
thick, add some very small button onions; fry 
all in butter with a little sugar; when brown, 
add a little stock and simmer till done, then 
drain them; when drained, place them into a 
rich Espagnole sauce, adding some cooked green 
peas, finely cut stringless beans and very small 
pieces of cauliflower Used with braised beef- 
boudins of partridge, braised calf's liver, braised 
capon, braised duck, braised neck of mutton, 
larded and roast leg of lamb, boned and braised 
leg of mutton, braised ox cheek, boiled salted 
ox tongue, fricandeau of veal, roast breast of 
veal, boned, stuffed and braised breast of veal 

fOLIE-FILLE SAUCE Half a pint of panada 
two small onions sliced, two yolks of hard 
boiled eggs, one pound of veal or poultry meat, 
all boiled with one quart of Veloute sauce; 
when done, rub through the tamis, and bring 
to the sauce consistency with boiling milk; fin- 
ish with a little chopped parsley. Used with 
boiled chicken, boiled capon, boiled turkey, 
sweetbreads, croquettes of veal, fowl, turkey, 
sweetbreads, lamb, and boudins of white meat. 

LIVOURNAISE SAUCE Into a mayonnaise 
work some pounded anchovies and chopped 
parsley. Used with cold fish. 

LIVERNAISE SAUCE Out of carrots, white 
and yellow turnips, scoop very small balls 
steam them till barely done, then drain, and 
fry with a little butter and sugar to glaze them; 
then add them to equal parts of Espagnole and 
tomato sauces; simmer till done. Used with 
saut6ed cutlets of veal, mutton, fricandeaus of 



veal, braised legs and saddles of mutton, fillets 
of beef, braised fowls and capon. 

LYONNAISE SAUCE Into a combined sauce 
of two-thirds tomato and one-third Espagnole, 
add rings of onions that have been lightly fried 
with butter and then drained. Used with sau- 
te"ed fillets of fowls, broiled pork cutlets, roast 
leg or sparerib of pork, saute"ed legs or saddles 
of rabbit. 

LOBSTER SAUCE Into a butter sauce work 
some lobster roe, pieces of lobster meat, lemon 
juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with cro- 
quettes of lobster, boiled haddock, cod, pike, 
whitefish, pickerel, plaice, saut6 of red snap- 
per, lobster cutlets, croquettes of shad roe. 

MADEIRA SAUCE Powdered sugar, Madeira 
wine, yolks of eggs and grated lemon rind 
beaten together over fire till thick. Used with 
puddings and sweet entries. 

MADEIRA SAUCE Equal quantities of Espag- 
nole and tomato sauces well flavored with 
Madeira wine. Used with steaks, cutlets, ten- 
loin of beef, broiled liver, fried chicken, broiled 
calf kidneys, braised fillets of hare, partridge, 
roast pigeon, roast prairie chicken, brochette 
or epigramme of rabbit, cutlets, croquettes and 
rissoles of rabbit, glazed sweetbreads, broiled 
turtle steaks, braised turtle fins, broiled veal 
cutlets, kromeskies of veal, broiled venison 
steak. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL Sauce Into melted butter 
add lemon juice, chopped parsley and a little 
grated nutmeg. Used with broiled steaks, fried 
calf brains, broiled boneless pigs feet, broiled 
snipe, broiled sweetbreads, brochette of fowl 
and turkey, broiled woodcock and partridge, 
artichoke bottoms, broiled soft shell crabs, 
broiled frog legs, broiled lobster, broiled fresh 
mushrooms, broiled oysters; broiled fish such 
as sea bass, blackfish, fillets of striped bass, 
bluefish, cisco, haddock, finnan haddie, hali- 
but, herring, kingfish, Spanish mackerel, fresh 
mackerel, salt mackerel, gray mullet, fillets of 
pike and pickerel, smelts, salmon trout, brook 
trout and whitefish, shad. 

MATELOTE SAUCE Into a butter sauce work 
some boiled button onions, scalded mussels and 
oysters, a flavor of garlic, essence of anchovies, 
lemon juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with 
boiled carp, crimped codfish, conger eel, skate, 
sturgeon, bluefish, baked codfish and boiled 
red snapper. 

MATELOTE SAUCE Equal quantities of veal 
broth and white wine, some tarragon, parsley, 
bay leaves, pepper and salt; boil ten minutes, 
add a little Veloutfc sauce and strain. Used 
with veal entrees, roast veal and boiled calf 
brains. 

MAINTENON SAUCE Braise some ham trim- 
mings, chopped shallots, parsley and mush- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



161 



rooms with a little sugar and lemon juice; take 
out the ham, add some Veloute sauce, reduce, 
finish with a liaison of egg yolks, then strain. 
Used with croquettes of white fleshed meats 
and fowls, boudins of white meat, etc., and for 
heating pieces of cooked white meat, etc., for 
developing into entries. 

MAYONNAISE SAUCE Take raw yolks of 
eggs, beat in a little olive oil; when it becomes 
like butter, add some salt, then a little more 
oil, then dry mustard and cayenne; then alter- 
nately oil, vinegar and lemon juice, till thick 
enough to spread. Used with salads, cold fish, 
and with aspic jelly to make aspic mayonnaise. 

MILANAISE SAUCE Into equal quantities of 
Veloutfe and Supreme sauces, work some Par- 
mesan cheese. Used with boiled capon, calf's 
sweetbreads, boiled chicken, boiled leg of 
lamb, breaded mutton and veal cutlets, quen- 
elles and boudins. 

MINT SAUCE Finely chopped green mint and 
a little grated orange rind placed in a tureen, 
vinegar brought to the boil with enough sugar 
to take off the rawness; poured to the chopped 
mint, etc. ; served with roast lamb. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE (WHITE) Into a Vel- 
oute or Bechamel sauce work a pure of mush- 
rooms, and some sliced button mushrooms that 
have been lightly fried with butter; season with 
lemon juice and cayenne. Used with boiled 
chicken, capon, pheasant, partridge, sweet- 
breads, legs and saddles of rabbits, turkey 
wings, croquettes and rissoles of poultry, sweet- 
breads, veal, etc. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE (BROWN) Into equal 
quantities ox Espagnole and tomato sauces, 
work in some mushroom pure"e and sliced but- 
ton mushrooms that have been fried with but- 
ter; a little chopped parsley, lemon juice and 
Madeira wine. Used with roast fillet of beef, 
braised sirloin of beef, broiled steaks, braised 
ox and calf tongues, scallops of calf's liver, 
braised veal, braised fowls, broiled pigeons and 
young rabbits, cromeskies of sweetbreads, 
broiled sweetbreads, broiled tripe, braised 
turkey legs, roulade of veal, stuffed shoulder of 
veal, fricandeau of veal, venison chops, broiled 
veal chops and cutlets, broiled chicken, Ham- 
burgher and Vienna steaks, braised ox heart, 
stuffed calf's and sheep hearts. 

N ANTAISE S AUCE-Into a white Ravigote sauce, 
work in some pounded lobster and coral. Used 
with fillets of fish such as soles, pompano, 
kingfish, bass, pickerel, red snapper, trout, 
whitefish, also with carp and shad roes. 

NAPOLITAINE SAUCE Into some Espagnole, 
work a little currant jelly, seedless raisins 
and port wine. Used with braised capon.braised 
sweetbreads, braised fresh ox tongue, braised 
venison, braised turtle fins. 



NEAPOLITAN SAUCE Braise some vegetables 
and bacon with garden herbs; when done, add 
equal quantities of Espagnole and tomato 
sauces, some game glaze and Madeira wine, 
simmer twenty minutes and then strain. Used 
with braised game chiefly. 

NEAPOLITAN SAUCE Into a good Espagnole, 
work some currant jelly, grated horseradish, 
grated ham, port wine and Harvey sauce. 
Used with braised meat. 

NICEOISE SAUCE Into some cold Veloute 
sauce work a liaison of hard boiled yolks of 
eggs rubbed through a sieve and mixed with 
oil vinegar, mustard, chopped chives and pars- 
ley. This is a good cold sauce for cold meats. 

NORMANDE SAUCE Equal quantities of 
court-bouillon and scalded oyster liquor thick- 
ened lightly with roux, then with a liaison of 
egg yolks and cream. Use with eels, filleted 
sole, plaice, trout, pike, pickerel, whitefish, 
halibut 

NONPAREIL SAUCE Into a Hollandaise sauce 
work some sliced fried button mushrooms, 
minced truffles, lobster coral, lobster butter and 
some slices of hard boiled whites of eggs. Used 
with boiled white flesh fish 

ONION SAUCE, WHITE AND BROWN Into 
a Bechamel sauce simmer minced onions till 
tender. Into equal quantities of Madeira and 
Espagnole sauces simmer till tender some 
minced fried onions. The white is generally 
used with boiled mutton, and the brown with 
roast and braised mutton. 

ORANGE SAUCE Into a brown poultry thick- 
ened and strained gravy, simmer till tender 
some shredded orange peel and finish with the 
-juice of an orange. Used with roast and braised 
ducks. 

OYSTER SAUCE Into a sauce Poulette, work 
some scalded and cut up oysters, also some of 
the scalded and strained oyster liquor. Used 
with boiled white flesh fish, boiled capon, 
boiled chicken and boiled turkey. 

PARSLEY SAUCE Into a butter sauce, work 
some chopped parsley. Used with plain boiled 
fish, boiled chicken, calf's head; dipping cut- 
lets of meat and fowl in before breading; also 
for mixing in with foods in preparing various 
entries. 

PASCALINE SAUCE Take some thin white 
Italian sauce and raw egg yolks with the juice 
of a lemon, simmer till creamy, strain, add 
some chopped and blanched parsley. Used 
with boiled poultry, sweetbreads, for reheating 
entrees of the same, calf's head, calf brains, 
pigs feet, turkey wings, grenadins of veal. 

PERIGUEUX SAUCE Into a Madeira sauce 
work some minced and fried shallots, a little 
meat glaze, anchovy butter, sliced truffles and 



162 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Madeira wine. Used with fillets of beef, sweet- 
breads, croquettes of poultry and game, stuffed 
pheasant legs, quenelles of turtle, cromeskies 
of veal, braised small game birds, roast black 
game, boudins of poultry, carp stewed in wine 
and drained, fried fillets of hare and rabbit, 
roast turkey, roast pheasant, larded and roasted 
pork, veal cutlets, filleted woodcock. 

PIQUANTE SAUCE Minced pickles, shallots, 
olives, capers, a spoonful each of lemon juice 
and caper vinegar, mixed into a Madeira sauce, 
simmered for a few minutes and served with 
boiled beef, pigs feet, calf's head, boiled 
tongue, calf's liver, carbonade of mutton, fried 
or broiled young pigeons, pork chops and pork 
tenderloin, braised venison, venison rissoles, 
broiled and fried tripe, antelope, bear, veni- 
son and buffalo steaks. 

PORTUGUESE SAUCE Reduce with half a 
pint of sherry wine, a bay leaf, thyme, mace, 
peppercorns, cloves, for ten minutes, then add 
half a pint of Espagnole and half that quantity 
of consomme"; let the whole boil slowly till of 
the required consistency, skim, then strain and 
use with braised fillet of beef. 

POIVRADE SAUCE Fry together with butter 
of a light brown color a diced carrot, diced 
onion and a head of celery, a slice of lean ham 
diced, some thyme, parsley, blade of mace, bay 
leaf, and a few bruised peppercorns; then 
moisten with half a pint of sherry and the same 
of white vinegar. Reduce to half its volume, 
then add a ladle of Espagnole and a little con- 
somme 1 ; boil up, skim, strain, and use with 
braised mutton, braised roebuck, cannelons of 
ox-palates, saute of rabbits and hares, roast 
young rabbit, broiled legs and saddles of rab- 
bit; legs and saddles of cooked rabbit, cooled, 
then breaded and fried; larded fillets of veni- 
son, venison chops and braised venison. 

Another way of making POIVRADE SAUCE 
is to take equal quantities of Espagnole and 
tomato sauces, work in some minced shallots, a 
bunch of parsley, bay leaves, a tablespoon of 
white pepper to each quart, along with two 
ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of vin- 
egar; reduce to half its volume, strain, then 
finish with a little Harvey sauce, port wine and 
red currant jelly. 

POLONAISE SAUCE Make a sauce with veal 
broth and boil in it some grated horseradise, 
juice of a lemon, chopped fennel or parsley 
leaves and a little sugar; season with salt and 
nutmeg, strain and use with roast veal. 

PAPILLOTE SAUCE Fry together for five 
minutes slowly a slice of bacon scraped, two 
scraped onions and two cloves of garlic, and 
some minced mushrooms, then moisten with a 
quart of Madeira sauce, boil up, finish with 
chopped parsley. Used with cutlets of food 



that are first sauteed, cooled, dipped in sauce, 
then placed in cutlet papers and slowly broiled, 
such as salmon cutlets, mutton cutlets, part- 
ridge cutlets, halves of boned squabs, cutlets of 
veal. 

POULETTE SAUCE Make a white sauce with 
strong chicken broth, then work in a liaison of 
egg yolks and cream; strain, finish with the 
juice of a lemon and some chopped parsley. 
Used with artichoke bottoms, blanquette of 
lamb fries and lamb sweetbreads, boudins of 
poultry, boiled capon, boiled chicken, boiled 
turkey, entree of calf or lamb tails, inch lengths 
of stewed cucumbers, eels that have been 
stewed with a little wine, lamb's feet simmered 
in white broth till tender, scallops of sweet- 
breads, scallops of veal, boiled calf's head, 
stewed pig's feet, stewed turtle fins, stewed 
breast of veal, lamb and mutton. 

PROVENCALE SAUCE Four hard boiled egg 
yolks, four anchovies, a spoonful of capers, a 
little chopped tarragon, parsley, chervil, a 
clove of garlic, a seasoning of salt, pepper, a 
wine glass of olive oil and half of vinegar. 
Pound the whole, then rub through a tamis; 
finish with a little chopped parsley and lemon 
juice. Used with broiled eels, but mostly with 
fish salads. 

PROVENCALE SAUCE Stew together for five 
minutes, four bruised cloves of garlic, some 
thyme, parsley stalks, spoonful of capers, bay 
leaf, and the pulp of a lemon with a little olive 
oil; then moisten with a ladle of espagnole, add 
a pinch of pepper and a piece of glaze. Let 
the whole simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
then rub through the tamis; finish with a little 
anchovy butter. Used with roast fillet of 
beef, calf's brains fried in batter, carp stewed 
in white wine, braised ducks, braised leg of 
mutton; braised cutlets of mutton, cooled, then 
spread with a stuffing on one side only, re- 
heated and served; braised boned ox cheek, 
salmis of partridge, scallops of sweetbreads, 
scallops of veal. 

PROVENCALE SAUCE Into some espagnolt 
work some minced fried mushrooms, onions, 
tomatoes and a clove of garlic. Used with 
braised beef. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce work 
a pure"e of parsley and tarragon leaves, some 
minced fried shallots and a little white vine- 
gar. Used with calf brains, ox piths fried in 
batter, roast partridge, skinned perch boiled in 
white wine, fillets of turbot, fillets of halibut 
and other white fleshed fish. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE Into a mayonnaise work 
a pure"e of chives, chervil, parsley, tarragon 
and shallots. Used with cold meat and meat 
salads. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE Take a small teacup and 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 163 

put in a third each of tarragon vinegar, chili lightly fried grated ham, minced shallots and 
vinegar and Harvey sauce; pour the cupful garden herbs. Used with boiled beef and 
thus obtained into a small sautoir and boil it tongues. . . (3) Made mustard, tarragon vine- 
down to half the quantity, then add half a pint gar, salt, pepper, sugar, and grated horseradish 
of butter sauce and a ladlespoon of mixed stirred together. Used with cold meat, 
chopped chives, chervil, parsley and tarragon. SAGE SAUCE Good for roast pork and goose. 
Used with boiled poultry and fillets of fish. Make a brown gravy in the pan with the resi- 

REGENCY SAUCE Braise some ham trim- due of the roasting, add some chopped sage 

mings, shallots and onions, then add equal leaves, simmer for 15 minutes, then strain and 

quantities of chicken glaze, espagnole and to- skim. 

mato sauces, boil slowly for twenty minutes STE MENEHOULD SAUCE Make a cream 

then strain and use with braised meat, game sauce and boil in it some minced onions till 

and poultry. tender, strain, then add some chopped parsley 

REGENCY SAUCE Cut an eel of a pound and minced mushrooms, simmer for ten min- 

weight into thin slices and boil gently with a utes, skim, then use with boiled pigs' feet, 

pint of claret, adding cloves, mace, thyme, bay boiled calf's head and feet, calf's brains and 

leaf, carrot, mushrooms, an onion and a little ears, salt pigs' head, ox piths and ox palates, 

salt, for half an hour, then rub the whole SCALLOP SAUCE Into a good butter sauce, 

through a tamis. Put the essence then into a wor k some cut cooked scallops and their 

sautoir and aid a ladleful of espagnole; boil, strained and skimmed liquor. Used with plain 

skim, finish by working in some essence of boiled fish. 

truffles, anchovy butter, nutmeg, lemon juice SHALLOT SAUCE Into a sauce made from 
and a knob of sugar. This sauce is admirably the res idue of roasting poultry, game or suck- 
adapted for every sort of colored fleshed fish. ling pig _ work some butter and minced shallots 

RAIFORT SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce work that have been stewed in sherry wine, and use 

some grated horseradish and a little white vin- with the meats mentioned, 

egar. Used with fresh boiled beef, salt beef SICILIAN SAUCE Take some veal stock and 

and fresh boiled ox tongues; also some like it boil in it a ham knuck i e , a head of celery, a 

with steaks. ck)ve o{ crus h e d garlic, the peel of a lemon, a 

REMOULADE SAUCE Pounded hard boiled f ew cloves and crushed coriander seeds with a 

yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve, mixed bay leaf; reduce to one half, add a little roux 

with olive oil, vinegar, dry mustard, minced and white wine, strain, skim, and use with 

garlic, chopped parsley and parsley juice. roast or boiled poultry. 

Used with frog legs, cold meat and meat salads. SHRIMP S AUCE-Into a good butter sauce, 

REFORM SAUCE -Another form or name of work some cut shrimps, lemon juice, cayenne 

Poivrade sauce, (which see). pepper and anchovy essence. Used with 

RICHELIEU SAUCE Into a white game sauce, boiled fish, fish croquettes, and many fish 

work some minced fried onions and a little entrees. 

white wine. Used with game birds. SORREL SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce work a 

ROE SAUCE Into a butter sauce, work apure*e pure"e of sorrel. Used with boiled beef, 

of fish roes, using the soft roe or milt. Used S OUBISE SAUCE Boiled onion pulp worked 

with plain boiled fish. into a Supreme sauce. Used with boiled mut- 

ROYAL SAUCE Into a Veloutfc sauce, work a ton ... roast and braised black game and 
pure"e of chicken and bread panada; finish with grouse . . . boudins of poultry . . . braised legs 
a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used with and necks of mutton . . . larded and braised 
boiled capon, boiled chicken, sweetbreads, pheasants and partridges . . . larded and roast 
boiled turkey, boiled partridge, pheasant, neck of pork . . . larded and braised sweet- 
cushion of veal. breads. 

ROBERT SAUCE Minced fried onions, dry SUPREME SAUCE Make a rich Veloute sauce 
mustard, a little meat glaze and white wine with reduced chicken liquor, then finish with 
mixed into espagnole or other brown sauce. pure cieam. Used with delicate entees such 
Used with roast pork, broiled or fried pork as boudins of breasts of chicken, lamb sweet- 
tenderloins, pork chops, and many entrees of breads, and delicate white fleshed fish . . . 
pork. saute"ed fillets of chicken, garnished with scal- 

RUSSIAN SAUCE-Into a Veloute sauce work lo P s of ton S ue ^iled capon . . . boiled 

some grated horseradish and vinegar, then P rairie hen sweetbread and chicken pat- 

work in a liaison of egg yolks and cream. . . (2) ties - and vol-au-vents. 

Into a Veloute sauce work some grated horse- SULTANA SAUCE Into a good game sauce, 

radish, vinegar, sugar, white wine, then some work some seedless raisins, simmer till tender, 



164 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

finish with port wine and use with roast game espagnole till soft, then strain. Used with 

in general. roast ducks. 

TART ARE SAUCE Into a mayonnaise sauce VERTE-PRE SAUCE Into a Veloutfc or white 

work some finely chopped parsley, gherkins, ravigote sauce work a pure'e of chives, spinach 

chives, capers and shallots. Used with breaded and tarragon leaves. Used with boiled eels. 

and fried fillets of chicken and capon . . . frog VINAIGRETTE SAUCE Minced shallots, 

legs . . . sweetbreads . . . eels cut in fiuger chopped parsley, oil, vinegar and a little salt 

lengths . . . broiled salmon steak . . . fried calf and caye nne carefully blended together and 

brains . . . fried tripe . . . fried butter fish. used with cold pigs - eet and pick i e d lamb 

TOULOUSE SAUCE One pint of Hollandaise tongues. 

sauce, half cup of white wine, half cup of YORKSHIRE SAUCE Into some espagnole, 

minced mushrooms, little chicken glaze, mix work a little currant jelly, por t wine, orange 

together, then bring to the simmer, without j uice and . fine i y shredded boiled orange peel. 

breaking or curdling. Used with boiled and Used with roast ham 

stewed poultry . . . sweetbreads. SAUERKRAUT-A preparation of cabbage (see 

TOMATO SAUCE Take equal quantities of cabbage). 

good stock and tomatoes, a veal and a ham gCALLOPS-A broad flat shelled fish, white in 

shank, a few herbs, sliced vegetables, and bay color _ whh pink gills Used in many ways as 

leaves; two or three cloves of garlic are option- ters; such as .. saut( ed", "scalloped", "fried 

al; boil all till vegetables are done, thicken with - n ^^ ,, breaded and f^^ ,- baked and 

roux, strain, add a little sugar. Used with served on the half shell", "stewed" and in soup. 

broiled steaks, chops, veal and pork chops SCRAPPLE-Generally termed "Philadelphia 

pork tenderloin . . . fried sweetbreads and lamb , , , . , . 

W is pigs' head brawn with corn meal 



ries . . . broiled calf kidneys . . . fried chicken 

, , . . . , boiled together, then set in blocks, afterwards 

breaded or in batter . . epigramme of sweet- . Q J^ ^ {ried for breakfas ; of s 

breads . . . quenelles of turkey . . . grenadms 

of veal . . fried or broiled tripe . . . ham- SEA KALE-A vegetable resemb ing in appear- 



burger steaks . . . fried or broiled pigs' feet . . . f nce a head of "^ " 1S cooked .' 

fried ciscoes . . . codfish steaks . . . fried had- llke asparagus, boiled and served with butter, 

dock and halibut . . . filleted pike and muskal- Hollandaise or Espagnole sauces; also after be- 

longe . . . fried smelts . . . broiled weakfish, in g boiled and cooled, is cut up and mixed 

whftefish and trout ... broiled and fried oys- ^ith endive and lettuce and used as a salad with 

ters . . . venison chops and steaks, etc. etc., French dressing. 

and is used in conjunction with other sauces. SEMOLINA Name given to a preparation of 

TORTUE OR TURTLE SAUCE Equal parts wheat like Farina. It is used in the making of 

of tomato and espagnole sauces, into which puddings; as a soup and sauce thickening; also 

work some sliced mushrooms, garden herbs mixed with pressed bread in the preparation of 

and sherry wine, the grated rind and juice of a sausages, as it takes up more fat and water. 

lemon, and a few minced shallots. Used with SHAD Name of one of our best fish. To be 

calf's head. broiled it should be split, back and rib bones 

TRIANON SAUCE Equal parts of Bearnaise removed, seasoned with olive oil, salt and pep- 

and reduced tomato sauces carefully blended per, then placed between the wire hinged 

together. Used with broiled steaks, sweet- broiler, cooked over a medium fire, served with 

breads, calf brains, etc. maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with pars- 

VELOUTE SAUCE Into some strong chicken le X and quartered lemon. 

and veal broth boil a small piece of pickled PLANKED SHAD The fish cleaned, split, 

pork, a small bunch of garden herbs, a few car- bones removed, made fast to the plank, cooked 

rots and onions, a little salt, sugar and pepper, under a salamander or in a quick oven; served 

simmer slowly till the pork and vegetables are on the plank, with maitre d'hotel butter. 

done, then thicken with white roux; simmer B AKED SHAD Take a full sized shad, clean 

gently, taking off the fat and scum as it rises trimi score the sideS( wipe dryi t h en season 

till of a smooth velvet appearance; then strain with salt; place them in a buttered pan and 

through a hair sieve. It is used as a basis for cover the fish with sma n pieces of butter; put 

other sauces. j n a medium oven and cook for fifteen minutes, 

VENITIENNE SAUCE Court-bouillon thick- then pour over the fish a small ladle of stock, 

ened with white roux, simmered and skimmed; some tabasco sauce and a cupful of cream; re- 

add chopped parsley and lemon juice; finish turn to oven and bake till nicely done; then lift 

with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used the fish on to the serving platter, garnish with 

with boiled fish. maitre d'hotel potatoes, pour the strained and 

VERJUICE SAUCE Boil some green grapes in skimmed sauce over the fish and serve. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



165 



BOILED SHAD Clean, trim and score the SHORTBREAD A name given to a sort of cake, 
sides of the fish, place on the drainer of fish much used by tlie Scotch people, 
kettle, cover the fish with boiling water, add a SHRIMP Name of a thin shelled fish, used gen- 
little salt, simmer till done (about thirty min- erally after being boiled, trimmed and shelled; 
utes), lift, drain; serve with either caper or lob- always to be had in cans. The Barataria shrimp 
ster sauce, and garnish with small boiled pota- j n cans are as good as can be purchased. Made 
toes- into salads, sauces, omelets, patties, bouchee*s, 

FRIED SHAD Fillet the fish into serving por- croquettes, in the preparation of appetizers, etc. 

tions, season with salt and pepper, dip into SMELT Name of a small delicate fish which 

beaten eggs containing flour enough to make a has the flavor of cucumbers. To be cooked is 

soft batter, then fry a delicate golden color in drawn from the gills, seasoned with salt, rolled 

deep fat; drain; serve with chips and lemon. in fl our and S autee"d with butter, or breaded 

BAKED STUFFED SHAD Scale and trim the and fried . . . Broiled; or run on skewers and 

fish, split down the belly and withdraw the broiled. 

bones; season with salt and pepper; stuff with SNIPE _ A small game bird; may be roas ted, 

forcemeat made of a pound of whitefish broiledi riedi made into bou dins, pies, galan- 

pounded in the mortar with half a pound of tines salmis 
soaked and squeezed dry bread, quarter pound 

of butter, four yolks of raw eggs, juice of a SOLES-Name of a delicate flat fish As there 

lemon, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to are few to be had m the Umted States the 

taste. When stuffed, sew up the opening, flounder and plaice is substituted. For recipes 

score ihe sides, place in buttered pan, brush of cookin g- see F1 d *r. 

over with melted butter, bake till done; serve SORREL Name of a vegetable. Used in soups, 

whoie or in portions with miitre d'hotel sauce sauces; served plain or mixed with spinach as a 

and a garnish of fancy potatoes. vegetable; puree"d as spinach, and used as an 

SHAD ROE Keep the roes whole, lay them in accompaniment to veal, pork, fried sweet- 
cold water for an hour, trim, wipe dry; then breads, brains, etc. 

season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry in SOUFFLE Name given to a very light pasty 

lard; serve with chip potatoes, a slice of bacon, preparation of meats, or sweets; of the omelet 

and quartered lemon . . . Also boiled and served order. 

with cream sauce and garnished with Hollan- SOUPS See heading of any meat, etc., wanted; 

daise potatoes . . . Breaded whole if small, or a i so "consommes", 
blanched, split, then breaded and fried; served 
with Parisienne potatoes, lemon and parsley. . . 
Broiled and served with bacon, garnished with 



SPAGHETTI An Italian solid paste like maca- 
roni. Used in every way like macaroni; for 



Julienne potatoes and lemon . . . Made into cro- 



recipes of which, see "Macaroni". 



quettes and served with lobster sauce . . . Also SPINACH A vegetable good for the stomach, 



blanched, mixed with Hollandaise sauce and 
scalloped. 

SHADDOCK A dessert fruit from the West 
Indies (see grape fruit). 

SHALLOT Name of a small onion, very mild 
in flavor. Used in the preparation of delicate 
sauces and soups. 

SHEEPSHEAD Name of one of our seafish, so 
called on account of the shape of its mouth be- 
ing like that of a sheep; also its having two 



because not only its own properties are ab- 
sorbed but the life sustaining qualities of that 
with which it is prepared: for spinach from 
Greenwhich plain boiled and eaten as a greens 
may be all right; but to those who live at 
hotels, clubs, etc., it is prepared as a puree", 
richly endowed with cream, butter, gravies, 
etc., well seasoned with salt, pepper and NUT- 
MEG; and when used either as a vegetable, 
garniture, in an omelet, or as an accompani- 
ment to roast or borled ham, it is good. 



similar rows of teeth^ It is boiled and served SQUAB _ Name iven to a young pigeon . For 

with caper sauce and garnished with Hollan- ~~.. __ .. p f geon 7 

daise potatoes . . . Baked and served with pi- ecipes ' 

quante sauce, garnished with Parisienne pota- SQUASH - A vegetable of the melon order, 

toes . . . Broiled and served with Venitienne peeled, cut in pieces, plain boiled or mashed, 

butter, garnished with Saratoga chips . . . Sau- then served as a vegetable; cut in slices and 

te(d and served with brown Italian sauce, baked or steamed, then the pulp removed, 

garnished with Duchesse potatoes . . . Braised mashed and used instead of pumpkin for pies, 

and served with Creole sauce, garnished with SQUIRREL Either the red, gray or black, may 

small potato croquettes. be practically used in all the ways of spring 

SHERRY Name of a Spanish wine. Used with chickens; and are relished too. 

dinner service, in making cobblers, jellies, STILTON Name of a prime English cheese 

sauces, etc. (see "Cheese"). 



166 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

STRAWBERRIES One of the choice table CASSEROLE OF SWEETBREADS Line the 

fruits eaten with cream and sugar; crushed and casserole with boiled rice, arrange the interior 

mixed into ices; made into tarts and pies, jel- with lamb sweetbreads in fricassee, bake and 

lies, shortcakes, meringues, charlottes, etc. serve in the casserole. 

STURGEON Name of a large fish that is sold CROUSTADES OF SWEETBREADS Into 

skinned as catfish are. Used baked and served the fancy croustade cases (now to be purchased 

with Remoulade sauce . . . larded as a frican- by the dozen or barrel), serve the fricassee of 

deau and served with bacon and mushroom sweetbreads above. 

sauce . . . braised with herbs and vegetables BLANQUETTE OF SWEETBREADS Slice 

and served with the strained aad skimmed the sweetbreads into even slices with corre- 

braise . . . broiled in steaks and served with spending slices of truffles, moisten with a su- 

piquante sauce . . . stuffed, baked and served prSme sauce; served within a border of well 

with Bourgignotte sauce . . . boiled and served cooked rice grains. 

with Genevoise and Hollandaise sauces. EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS Lard, 

STERLET Name given to the young sturgeon. braise and glaze one half of the quantity of 

SUCCOTASH Name given to a combination of sweetbreads required, the other half to be 

cooked corn and lima beans. Used as a vege- breaded and fried a golden color; place one of 

table. each against fancy toast; serve with tomato 

SWEETBREADS The name given to two sue- sauce. 

culent pieces of flesh of the calf, ox and sheep, CURRY OF SWEETBREADS Beef sweet- 

that adhere to the throat and heart. Before breads are as good as any {or this> Take the 

using in the preparation of dishes, they must breads, soak for two hours in warm water, boil 

first be blanched, trimmed and skinned. till tender, clean and trim them, then press be- 

SWEETBREADS WITH SPINACH Lard the tween plates till cold; slice them and fry with 

sweetbreads with seasoned strips of pork, ar- butter a golden color; then fry sliced onions, 

range them in a brasiere with bacon, herbs, add flour to form a roux, moisten with the 

vegetables and stock; when done, take out; strained and skimmed stock the sweeetbreads 

serve on a bed of spinach puree 1 , with the were boiled in, add curry powder to taste, sim- 

strained and skimmed braise poured over them. mer, skim; serve within a border of well boiled 

SCALLOPED SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads grains of rice. 

and button mushrooms cut into dice, sautee'd SWEETBREADS WITH KIDNEYS Take 

with butter, surplus butter then poured off, large veal sweetbreads, blanch, cool, press and 

moistened with Veloute sauce, filled into seal- trim them, then lard them with strips of truffles, 

lop shells or dishes; sifted breadcrumbs and a Beat to a froth .he whites of three eggs, into 

little Parmesan cheese strewn on top; baked a it then mix some finely chopped pistachio nuts; 

delicate brown and served. roll the truffled sweetbreads in the egg, then in- 

FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS Sweet- sert in buttered paper cases, bake till of a nice 

breads cut in even sized pieces; button mush- color, remove the paper, place the sweetbread 

rooms sautee'd, added to the sweetbreads; moist- on a circle of buttered toast, then flank it with 

ened with Ve'loute' sauce, simmered; served broiled lamb or sheep kidneys, and serve with 

within a fancy piped border of mashed potatoes. port wine sauce. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS, COLBERT SAUCE MEDALLIONS OF SWEETBREAD Take 

The sweetbreads split, seasoned with salt smooth skinned tomatoes, cut them in halves, 

and pepper, dipped in butter, then in beaten place cut side down in baking pan and dry them 

eggs and sifted BREAD crumbs, fried a deli- down in a medium oven; then place a slice of 

cate brown with butter; served on fancy toast sweetbread in each half, put the two halves to- 

with Colbert sauce. gether, pin them with a toothpick, then bread 

BRAISED SWEETBREADS WITH VEGE- and fr X tn e m . drain, remove the pick; serve on 

TABLES The sweetbreads larded, braised circles of toast and Supreme sauce, 

with herbs, vegetables and stock, taken up LARDED SWEETBREADS, TOULOUSE 

when done, the braise strained and skimmed; GARNISH Take veal sweetbreads, lard them 

then used to moisten a macedoine or jardiniere with seasoned strips of bacon, braise till done 

of vegetables; served, the sweetbreads on fancy and glazy with herbs, vegetables and stock; 

toast, the vegetables around. serve on circles of toast with Toulouse garnish 

FRIED STUFFED SWEETBREADS Split the around, (see Garnishes), 

sweetbreads, then spread it on both sides with CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS Take 

a D'Uxelles sauce containing minced mush- the trimmings of sweetbreads and some boiled 

rooms and onions, then double bread and fry; sweetbreads from the ox, cut them up very fine, 

serve with a rich brown sauce containing adding some minced mushrooms and shallots, 

sherry wine. then boil them down thick with Veloute sauce, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



167 



(a little chopped parsley may be added if de- 
sired) tarn oat into a buttered pan, smooth, 
cover with a sheet of buttered paper and set 
away to get thoroughly cold; then make up into 
croquettes, or form into small cutlets, bread, 
fry and serve with a white Italian sauce, or 
garnish with peas in a Veloute sauce, or with 
some flageolet beans in a Madeira sauce. . . 
KROMESKIES OF SWEETBREADS are 
made of the croquette mixture shaped like a 
core, then rolled round with thin slices of boiled 
bacon, dipped in batter and fried. . . RIS- 
SOLES OF SWEETBREADS are made from 
the croquette mixture shaped like a finger, then 
enclosed with a thin piece of pie paste and fried. 

BROILED SWEETBREADS Prepare and 
trim the sweetbreads, then season with salt and 
pepper, rou in melted butter, then in flour, and 
broil a delicate brown; serve on toast with or 
without a strip of bacon and some maitre d'ho- 
tel sauce. 

ROAST SWEETBREADS Prepare and trim 
veal sweetbreads, season with salt and pepper, 
roll in melted butter, then in flour, place in a 
battered baking pan, roast gently till of a deli- 
cate color, then serve on a circle of buttered 
toast with Supreme or Madeira sauces. 

PATTIES OF SWEETBREADS Take the pre- 
pared veal sweetbreads and cut them into small 
dice, adding a small quantity of iced and fried 
button mushrooms, moisten them with either 
Veloute, Italian or Madeira sauces, simmer, 
then fill into patty cases . . .VOL-AU- VENTS 
are the same thing but much larger. . . BOU- 
CHEES are the same thing but smaller than 
the patty case. 

SALPICON OF SWEETBREADS Take the 
prepared veal sweetbreads and cut them into 
medium-sized dice, adding also the tops of small 
button mushrooms, small diced pieces of cooked 
red tongue, and some small diced truffles; 
moisten the whole with a white Italian sauce, 
simmer, then serve in fancy cases. 

BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS Take 
the prepared veal sweetbreads and slice them 
into squares or circles with an equal number 
of -slices of parboiled bacon, run them on a 
skewer alternately, with a button mushroom; 
season with salt, pepper and the juice of a lemon, 
then dip in beaten eggs, then roll in sifted 
breadcrumbs, and fry a delicate brown in but- 
ter; serve with Italian sauce. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS Take the prepared 
veal sweetbreads and cut them into slices, sea- 
pon with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then fry 
a delicate brown with butter; take up and 
moisten with a little Madeira sauce, just enough 
to keep them hot in the bain-marie; place within 
a border of veal forcemeat piped on the dish 



with a bag and tube, then pour Perigaeax sauce 
over the sweetbreads and serve. 

SCRAMBLED SWEETBREADS WITH EGGS 
Take all the trimmings of the sweetbreads 
which may have accumulated from the two or 
three previous days, cut them into small neat 
pieces, then scramble them with eggs, after- 
ward moistening them with white Italian sauce; 
serve on buttered toast. 

SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN BUTTER 
Slices of the prepared veal sweetbreads fried 
a golden brown with plenty of good butter; 
taken up and laid on toast, the butter then 
frothed up and seasoned with lemon juice, or 
tarragon vinegar, browned well, and poured 
over the sweetbreads. 

SWEETBREAD SOUP- -Mince some ham and 
onions, blanch and slice some sweetbreads, add 
a bunch of herbs and saut6 the whole gently 
with butter for an hour, add flour to form a 
paste, then rub the whole through the tamis, 
make hot again and bring to the soup consist- 
ency with a combined veal and chicken broth, 
season with salt, white pepper, a little sugar; 
serve with croutons. 

TAPIOCA A form of starch obtained from the 
root of a plant; used in the making of puddings 
and jellies; also in soups and custards. 

TARRAGON An aromatic herb; used in soups, 
sauces, and as a flavoring to vinegar. 

TARTARIC ACID A powder obtained from 
cream of tartar; used in conjunction with it to 
form baking powder. 

TEAL Name of the duck next best to the can- 
vas back; delicious when broiled, roasted or in a 
salmis. 

TERRAPIN Name of the most costly of the tor- 
toise family, having to-be purchased by the inch, 
the diamond back being the best. To kill it, 
plunge into boiling water and let it remain 
there with the lid on for fifteen minutes, then 
take it out and peel the skin off the back and re- 
move the nails from the claws; remove the un- 
der shell by cutting with a sharp knife where it 
joins the upper one, then remove the sand bag 
and gall bladder; save the blood, and remove 
all the meat and eggs; cat off the head and use 
it and the shell for soups; keep the meat, 
eggs and the green fat found at the shoulders in 
water till wanted for use. 

BAKED TERRAPIN Take the terrapin meat, 
eggs and fat, pat into the upper shell, moisten 
with a little Madeira sauce, add the juice of a 
lemon, season with salt, pepper, butter, a glass 
of Madeira wine; cover with a sheet of buttered 
paper, bake till done and serve in the shell. 

TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE Terrapin 
meat simmered in butter with the liquor ob- 
tained from the cutting up; flour added to form 
a roux, then moistened with boiling cream, till 



i68 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



like a fricassee; seasoned with salt, pepper and SALMON TROUT SAUTE Cut the fish into 



mace; finish by adding the eggs, simmer, then 
add sherry wine. 

TOMATOES One of the best of the vegetable 
fruits. Used in making pies, preserves, soups, 
sauces, salads, as a vegetable, baked and stuffed as 
a garnish; used as an accompaniment to steaks 
when broiled, as a pickle, and in the prepara- 
tion of piccalili, as an ingredient to chutney; 
and used by the cook in more ways than any 
other fruit vegetable known. 

TRIFLE Name given to a combination of sponge 
cake, sherry wine, preserves, custard, and whip- 
ped cream. 

TRIPE The first stomach of the ox. Used after 
being prepared by the butchers. It is easily di- 
gested, contains good nutrients. It may be 
broiled and served with melted butter . . . Fried 



steaks, season with salt and pepper. Fry some 
slices of bacon a delicate brown, then roll the 
fish in flour and fry in the bacon fat till of a 
golden brown; take up, aid flour to the pan, 
stir, moisten with boiling fish broth, add the 
juice of a lemon, and a little tomato catchup, 
strain over the fish in a clean sautoir, simmer 
for a few minutes, then serve with some of the 
sauce and a strip of the bacon on the top. 
BAKED STUFFED TROUT Take the lake 
trout, trim and scale it, stuff with a fish force- 
meat, sew up the belly, score the sides in por- 
tion cuts, season with salt and pepper, brush 
with butter, dredge with flour, place in a but- 
tered pan, bake and baste till done; serve with 
an anchovied Espagnole sauce, garnish with 
Duchesse potatoes. 



either after breading, or dipping in fritter bat- BROILED SALMON TROUT Take the whole 



ter and served with fried onions or with a pure'e 
of onions in either brown or white sauce . . . 
Stewed plain with onions in white sauce . . . 
Stewed with tomatoes, a clove of garlic, red 
peppers, olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, sliced 



sides freed from bones, moisten with olive oil, 
season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, 
broil well done over a clear fire; serve in por- 
tions with maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with 
Parisenne potatoes, lemon and parsley. 



onions and meat gravy. This is called "in CRE- SALMON TROUT BAKED WITH TOMA- 



OLE style" . . .Stewed in Espagnole sauce with 
an addition of fried onions . . . Stewed down 
rich in tomato sauce . . . Stewed in a sauce 
Poulette and served with toast . . . Baked in a 
rich white onion sauce . . . Grilled and served 
with tartar sauce . . . Curried and served with 
fancy croutons . . . Made into a fricassee by 



TOES Take the sides of fish freed from bones, 
season with salt and pepper, dust with paprika, 
dredge with flour, arrange in a buttered baking 
pan, cover with canned tomatoes, add a minced 
green pepper, bake and baste till done; serve 
with the tomatoes, and garnish with Victoria 
potatoes. 



stewing in a sauce Veloutfe . . . Laid out in FILLETED TROUT FRIED, WITH BACON 



lengths, the inside spread with sausage meat, 
rolled up into cannelons, baked and basted with 
tomato sauce; served with some of the sauce 
and garnished with sausage balls . . . Sauteed 
and served with Bordelaise sauce . . . Sim- 
mered down till nearly dry with a little white 
broth, chopped parsley, and strips of lean ham, 
then moistened with a sauce Toulouse, finished 
with a few gherkins finely minced. 

TROUT One of the most delicate flavored fish, 
LAKE TROUT, SALMON TROUT and the 
BROOK TROUT. The delicate brook trout 
is either broiled or fried, and served with a 
mditre d'hotel sauce . . . The lake and sal- 
mon trout may be cut in steaks and broiled; 
served with a Hollandaise sauce . . . Cut in 
steaks and fried, served with a slice of bacon; 
garnish with fancy potatoes . . . Boiled and 
served with Anchovy sauce . . . Baked and 
served with Italian sauce. 

BAKED SALMON TROUT Scale and cleanse 
the fish, score the sides where the portion is to 
be cut, rub the scores with mixed salt, pepper 
and ground herbs, lay in buttered pan, bake 
and baste with butter and court-bouillon; when 
done, lift off gently on to the steam table; serve 
in portions with either Genevoise or Espagnole 
sauces, garnish with small potato croquettes. 



Take the sides of salmon trout freed from bone, 
cut them into portion pieces, season with salt 
and pepper, have ready some frying oil, very 
hot. Make a batter of beaten eggs and a very 
little flour, dip the fillets in the batter, fry in 
the oil; serve with a strip of bacon on the fish, 
garnish with Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley. 

TROUT STEAK, SAUCE TRIANON Take 
the centre cut steaks of salmon trout, season 
with salt and pepper, moisten with olive oil, 
dredge with flour, broil over a clear fire, bast- 
ing with butter; serve with a sauce Trianon 
poured around. 

LAKE TROUT FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE 
Scale and trim the trout, cut in steaks, season 
with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, fry in 
bacon fat to a golden color; serve with tomato 
sauce poured around. Or may be served with a 
strip of bacon, garnished with Reitz potatoes. 

BOILED TROUT, SHRIMP SAUCE Lake or 
Salmon trout, scaled and trimmed, scored in 
portion cuts, placed on the drainer of fish ket- 
tle, covered with cold water containing a bunch 
of garden herbs, a little salt and vinegar, 
brought to the boil, skimmed, simmered till 
done, lifted up and drained; served with shrimp 
sauce, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



169 



PAKED TROUT STEAKS Take the lake trout, 
soale and trim, cut in steaks, arrange in but- 
tered pan, cover with Allemande sauce, bake 
gently till done; serve garnished with Villa- 
geoise potatoes. 

BRAISED TROUT, MATELOTE Scale and 
trim the fish, score the sides in portion cuts, 
braise with bacon, herbs, and fish broth; when 
done, take up, strain and skim the braise, glaze 
the portions with it; serve garnished with a 
Matelote. 

BROOK TROUT WITH QUENELLES Clean 
and trim the fish, stuff with a fish farce, ar- 
range in a well buttered pan, season with salt 
and pepper, add a few mixed herbs and a glass 
of white wine with a little fish broth; bake 
about fifteen minutes, well basting with the 
liquor; then take up, strain the residue into 
some Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim; then 
add sliced truffles and mushroom, some 
blanched oysters and a little lobster coral; serve 
with the oysters as a garnish and the sauce 
poured over. 

BROILED BROOK TROUT Scale and trim 
the fish; draw it through the gills, then stuff it 
through the mouth with butter mixed with 
finely minced sweet herbs, slightly score the 
sides, season with salt and pepper, pass the 
fish through either melted butter or olive oil; 
broil gently without breaking the skin; serve 
with Poivrade sauce. 

TRUFFLES Name of an aromatic tuber. On 
the European continent are served baked, 
boiled, gratinated, broiled, stewed in wine, 
etc. But on account of their very high 
price in this country, the cook uses them in 
sauces, forcemeats, omelets, salads and turkey 
stuffing. 

TUNNY "THON MARINE" As it generally 
appears on the bill of fare, under the heading 
of hors d'ouevrs or appetizers, is the name of a 
fish of the appearance and flavor of Spanish 
mackerel. It is generally imported in tins, pre- 
pared in olive oil. 

TURKEY One of the native American poultry 
birds found wild in Mexico. And the wild bird 
is as superior to the domestic one as the can- 
vas back duck is to the domestic duck. 

BROILED SPRING TURKEY Plump young 
birds, singed, split down the back, breast and 
back bones removed, thigh bone snapped, the 
sides then cut in halves; season with salt .and 
pepper, brush with butter or olive oil, broil a 
golden brown; serve on slices of buttered toast 
and garnish with two roast mushrooms on the 
bird, flanked with slices of tomatoes breaded 
and fried, a little miitre d'hotel butter sprink- 
led over the whole. 

STEWED SPRING TURKEY, SOUTHERN 
STYLE Take young plump birds singed, 



drawn and washed, cut into joints, leaving the 
the leg and wing bone a little exposed. Place 
the pieces in a baking pan, season with chili 
pepper and salt, sprinkle with melted butter 
and roast slowly till brown; then take up into a 
sautoir, add flour, shake together, moisten with 
chicken or turkey stock, bring to the boil, skim, 
then add the grated rind and juice of an orange, 
simmer till the bird is tender. Take one pound 
of raw ham and one medium sized onion, cut 
in small squares, fry them lightly with plenty 
of butter in the sautoir, then add a pound of 
well washed rice, moisten with half a gallon of 
chicken or turkey stock, place on the cover and 
let simmer till rice is well done. To serve: 
place the rice neatly on serving platter, the 
portion of bird on the rice with a croquette 
frill in it; or on the wing or leg bone; pour 
some of the gravy over the whole and flank the 
rice with small roasted potatoes. 

BOILED TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE Take 
very large plump birds, singe, draw, wash, 
truss them with the legs forced well into the 
body, then boil them with a piece of salt pork, 
carrots, onions and celery, for about three 
hours; take up, and serve portions with plenty 
of oyster sauce poured over. A well made 
celery sauce is also very appropriate. 

ROAST SPRING TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE 
Take young plump birds, singed, drawn, 
washed and trussed (not stuffed). Roast about 
an hour, well basting with butter. Serve in 
portions with a good brown oyster sauce, (see 
Sauces). 

ROAST TURKEY, STUFFED Take plump 
young birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with a 
mixture of white bread soaked and squeezed 
dry, seasoned with salt, pepper, mixed herbs, 
melted butter and yolks of eggs. Truss with 
the legs well into the body; season the bird with 
pepper and salt, roast for about two hours, wel 
basting during roasting; serve portions with the 
stuffing under the meat, and a dish of cranberry 
sauce or jelly separate . . . The turkey may 
also be stuffed with mashed sweet potatoes . . . 
Again with veal forcemeat containing a liberal 
quantity of peeled boiled chestnuts, then served 
with chestnut sauce; that is, with boiled chest- 
nuts peeled, rubbed through the tamis, and the 
puree thus obtained mixed into the turkey 
gravy . . . They may also be stuffed with an 
oyster dressing and served with a brown oyster 
sauce . . . They may also be stuffed with stewed 
truffles and served with Perigueux sauce, and 
garnished with quenelles of poultry . . . Also 
stuffed with pork sausage meat in which has 
been mixed some boiled and peeled chestnuts, 
and served with a Chipolata garnish, (see 
Garnishes) . . . Also stuffed with veal forcemeat 
and served with a Financiere garnish. In 



170 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



England the common way of the people is to 
stuff the turkey with ordinary dressing as given 
above, and to serve it with roast pork sausages, 
and a slice of boiled salt leg of pork, always 
handing round sticks of fine white celery. 

BOILED STUFFED TURKEY Take young 
plump birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with veal 
forcemeat; trussed with the legs well into the 
body; boil it till tender with a carrot, onion, 
celery, and a salted ox tongue; serve with a 
couple of slices of the tongue on the bird, the 
stuffing underneath, and a sauce made from the 
liquor it was boiled in poured around ... It 
may also be stuffed with grated breadcrumbs 
mixed with minced and boiled celery, raw eggs, 
salt, pepper and butter, and served with Hol- 
landaise sauce ... Or with egg sauce, Veloute 
sauce, parsley sauce . . . Also garnished with a 
slice of boiled ham and a spoonful of spinach 
puree. 

BONED TURKEY This dish is always served 
cold, either plain or with aspic or in a galan- 
tine. It is a favorite with ball parties, and 
other luncheon or supper gatherings. Take 
two birds, one smaller than the other. Remove 
the head, feet and wings, then split the skin 
down the spinal column; remove the flesh with- 
out breaking through the skin, and leave the 
carcass with entrails entire. Lay the birds out 
on the table skin side down. On the larger on 
place a column of pork sausage or veal forcee 
meat down the breast centre; on that, lay a- 
column of cooked tongue, and on either side of 
it a smaller column of pickled belly of cooked 
pork. Season with salt, pepper and thyme. 
Remove the flesh from the skin of the smaller 
bird and place the white meat over the dark of 
the stuffed bird, and the dark over the white 
meat. Then draw the two sides together, sew 
it up into a good shape; then sew it into a cloth 
and boil till tender (about two hours). Take 
up and drain, then place it between two 
boards; put a weight on top and let become 
thoroughly cold; then remove the cloth, trim 
the bird, wipe clean with a hot wet cloth, glaze 
it and cut portions to order. If to place on a 
table whole, then decorate the glazing with 
fancy piped butter, and take off the first slice 
... It may also be roasted instead of being in 
a cloth and boiled ... To make a GALANTINE 
OF TURKEY, take the bird when the cloth is 
removed, have a galantine mold nicely decor- 
ated with aspic jelly and fancy forms of green 
peas, white and yolk of hard boiled egg, mace- 
doine of vegetables; then fill the mold with slices 
of the boned bird, placing the edges downwards 
(not one on top of the other), then fill up with 
limpid aspic jelly, allowing the jelly to get be- 
tween each slice of turkey, so that in serving 
there is no cutting to be done, simply remov- 
ing the slice with the jelly adhering. When 



serving, place at either end of the dish a small 
quantity of aspic and currant jelly. 
BLANQUETTE OF TURKEY Slices of cold 
cooked turkey freed from skin, a can of good 
button mushrooms also sliced. Put the two 
into a rich Veloute sauce, bring to the simmer, 
skim, add juice of a lemon; served within a 
border of green peas, or grains of rice, or finely 
shred noodles. 

BRAISED TURKEY Singe and truss the bird 
without stuffing as for roasting; then roast, 
quickly basting with butter to get on a nice 
brown color. Take up as soon as browned, 
and place it into a deep sautoir with a few 
slices of veal at the bottom; cover the bird with 
slices of fat bacon, then fill up with good white 
stock; add a bunch of sweet herbs, a little salt, 
then simmer till done; take up the bird, reduce 
the stock to half glaze, skim, strain and serve 
with the bird. Garnish with small potato cro- 
quettes. 

STUFFED YOUNG TURKEY LEGS-Cut off 
the leg and thigh, thus making four portions 
from each bird. You can stuff the other part 
of the bird and roast in the usual way, as 
everybody wants a slice of the breast . . . Re- 
move the bone from the leg cuts, season them 
with salt and pepper, then stuff the opening 
with a white forcemeat in which is incorpor- 
ated minced ham, truffles and mushrooms; roll 
them into shape, sew the ends, wrap each one 
in a piece of bacon, then boil gently in white 
stock till tender; take up and cool; then removs 
the sewing; meantime reduce the stock till of a 
sauce consistency; place the legs in again, to 
reheat, then take up and roll in fresh grated 
breadcrumbs; place in a buttered pan, sprinkle 
with butter, place in oven and get on a good 
color; serve on a bed of boiled rice with the 
sauce poured around. 

CREAMED COLLOPS OF TURKEY Slices 
of cold cooked turkey freed from skin, cut into 
neat thin slices; then place into a Supreme 
sauce and simmer tor ten minutes; serve on a 
slice of toast, sprinkle the top with finely 
minced truffles and lean ham mixed together; 
garnish the sides with fancy croutons spread 
with foie-gras or liver paste. 

HASHED TURKEY WITH EGG For this 
dish, buy a big old gobbler weighing twenty 
pounds or so, truss as for boiling, then steam it 
till tender; when cooled, remove the skin, and 
take off every particle of meat, cut it into very 
small dice, moisten it with Veloute sauce, bring 
it to the simmer; serve on buttered toast with 
a poached egg on top. 

TURKEY CROQUETTES Take the preceding 
recipe, and when brought to the simmer, work 
in some well boiled rice, so as to thoroughly 
stiffen it; then pour into a buttered pan, cover 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



171 



with oiled paper and let become cold, then 
shape it into the shape desired; bread, fry and 
serve with a white Italian sauce. 
TURKEY PATTIES AND VOL-AU-VENTS 
Take the cold white meat of cooked turkey, cut 
it into small dice, season with salt and nutmeg, 
then moisten it with a rich cream sauce (made 



green fat is served with the soups, the white 
and dark meat used for entrees and steaks, etc. 
The white meat may be used in all the ways 
given in the recipes for veal. The red meat in 
all the ways given for beef. The fins are gen- 
erally stewed in any of the ways applicable to 
fowl. 



with cream); fill into patty or vol-au-vent cases GREEN TURTLE SOUP Place in a large and 



and serve. 

SALPICON OF TURKEY Take cold cooked 
turkey freed from skin, three-fifths; lean cooked 
ham, one-fifth; truffles and mushrooms in equal 
parts to make the last fifth; cut the whole into 
neat small dice, moisten with a Supreme sauce, 
simmer for ten minutes, then serve in fancy 
paper cases. 

CROUSTADES OF TURKEY Take the salpi- 
con of the preceding recipe and fill into fancy 
croustade cases and serve. 

FRICASSEE OF TURKEY WINGS Take the 
middle joints of the wings, pick out all the dark 
feathers, trim the edges, singe them, boil them 
very slowly with a heart of celery, salt and a 
few blades of mace; when tender take up; make 
a good white sauce from the boiling liquor, 
skim and strain it over the wings in another san- 
toir, then add some good button mushrooms cut 
into slices, bring all to the simmer and serve 
with a border of finely cut noodles. 

TURKEY SALADS AND SOUPS ARE MADE 
THE SAME AS THE RECIPES GIVEN 
WITH CHICKEN. 

TURNIPS A nutritious vegetable both white 
and yellow; used plain boiled or boiled and 
mashed; cut into shapes and used as a garnish; 
or stewed in a cream sauce and used either as a 
garniture or as a vegetable; they are very use- 
ful in soups. The young green turnip tops 
also make a most excellent vegetable. Young 



deep sautoir half a pound of butter, three 
pounds of sliced raw ham, the meat from three 
shins of beef and three knuckles of veal, two old 
fowls, a dozen cloves, four blades of mace, a 
handful of parsley roots, a bouquet of parsley 
tied up with shallots, thyme, green onions and 
two bay leaves, a pint of Madeira wine and a 
gallon of good stock; boil this down sharply to 
a half glaze, then fill up with stock, adding the 
turtle head, fins, shell and the coarse meat, 
turnips, carrots, onions and a head of celery; 
simmer for six hours, then work in a roux to 
the consistency of thin sauce, boil and skim till 
smooth and velvety, then strain off in to another 
sautoir. . . Make a pure"e of herbs by boiling 
together in a quart of consomme, one-third of 
sweet basil, and the other two-thirds of herbs 
to be used are equal quantities of savory, 
thyme and marjoram, a good handful of parsley, 
a small bunch each of spring onions and shal- 
lots, and some mushroom trimmings; boil for 
one hour, then rub all through the tamis; add 
the puree to the soup with a pint of Madeira 
wine; some of the turtle eggs, some forcemeat 
balls made from the white turtle meat, the 
cooked green fat cut in pieces, and the juice of 
one lemon to each gallon of soup. For CLEAR 
TURTLE SOUP, proceed and finish in the 
same way, but instead of adding a roux to the 
stock, let it cool and clarify it into a consomme". 
A good sherry wine may be used instead of 
Madeira. 



white turnips of an even size may be peeled, 
the inside scooped out, steamed till done, then VANILLA-The fruit or pod of the vanilla plant; 
used as a receptacle for green peas, etc., and used as a flavori g to sauces, ices, puddings, 
served as a vegetable, the parts scooped out be- blanc-manges, fritters, creams, liqueurs, souf- 
ing used next day as a vegetable; also the tur- fles - eclairs - s y ru P s - caramels - etc. 
nip can be used for a nice entre'e by taking VEAL ROLL WITH TONGUE This is a de- 
white turnips all of an even size, peel them, lightful cold dish for luncheons, suppers, etc. 



cut off a lid, scoop out the inside, fill the space 
with-minced mutton (thus using up your mut'. 
ton trimmings), replace the lid, arrange in a 
shallow sautoir, moisten with white stock and 
simmer till tender; serve with a good gravy 
poured over them. 

TURTLE To kill it, hang it up by the hind fins, 
cut off the head and let it bleed overnight into a 
bucket; then lay it on its back, cut off the fins, 
then the under shell, remove the entrails and 
gall; save the eggs and green fat, the white 
flesh, and the red meat, and the fins. The shell 
is then sawn into pieces and boiled with the 



Take a large breast of veal, bone it, then place 
in the brine tub for two days; prick it and 
punch the air out if it has been blown, remove 
from brine and wipe dry, then spread thick with 
a layer of seasoned pork sausage meat; on that 
place down the centre four cooked pickled pigs 
tongues, cover them with more of the sausage 
meat, draw the sides together and sew up with 
twine, then tie it in a cloth like a roly poly 
pudding; boil for two hours in white stock, take 
up and let cool in the cloth, then remove the 
cloth, wipe with a hot cloth, glaze and serve in 
slices. 



head to make the stock for turtle soup; the VEAL CUTLETS, GARNISHED Take the rib 



I72 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

chops, remove the chine bone and gristle, trim scallops; also about one-third of the amount 
the bone so as to leave a handle for a frill to be similar cut scallops of raw ham; fry them all of a 
placed on when serving, lard the flesh with delicate brown color with clarified butter; then 
strips of bacon, ham, tongue, truffle, or sweet- pour off the surplus, add some button mush- 
bread and truffle according to desire; then place rooms, and brown Italian sauce, simmer till 
in a brasiere on a bed of sliced root vegetables, done; serve with the sauce, and garnish with 
parsley, spring onions, cloves, mace and whole the mushrooms ... Or they may be served with 
peppers, cover with slices of fat bacon, moisten either tomato or an Espagnole sauce and garn- 
to the height of the cutlets with stock and a ished with quenelles of veal forcemeat, 
glass of sherry wine, braise till done (about an EMINCE OF VEAL For this dish use the shin 
hour), then serve with a brown Italian sauce . . . taken from the shoulder, also the leg and the 
mushroom sauce . . . Financiere, Toulouse or trimmings from the neck and scrag; boil it in 
Perigueux garniture. These cutlets after being seasoned stock till done, then allow to become 
braised, may be cooled, trimmed, masked with cold; cut it up into small dice with some mush- 
sauce, then breadcrumbed and fried, and rooms, ham, tongue and truffles, then moisten 
served with Allemande sauce containing seal- the whole with just enough Bechamel sauce to 
lops of tongue and button mushrooms ... Or keep it together; serve heaped on a slice of 
with tomato sauce. toast; place a neatly poached and drained egg 

VEAL CUTLETS SAUTEED Take the rib on top. 

chops and trim as in the preceding recipe. CROQUETTES OF VEAL Take the parts of 
Season with salt and pepper, fry a delicate the preceding recipe, but instead of cutting 
brown on both sides with clarified butter; when them all into dice, run them through the mine- 
nearly done take up and in the butter fry some ing machine, moisten with enough Veloute 
shallots, mushrooms and parsley, then add some sauce, and stir over the fire till thoroughly 
Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim off the fat, heated and stiff; then pour into a buttered pan, 
add the cutlets and simmer till done; serve smooth with a knife, cover with oiled paper, 
garnished with thin scallops of fried ham. put away to become cold, then form into cro- 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH VEGETA- quettes or cutlet shapes, bread, fry and serve 
BLES Take the leg of veal and remove the with either mushroom, tomato, Italian or Peri- 
thick flank, lard it with seasoned strips of gueux sauces. 

bacon, braise with carrot, celery, onions, pars- VEAL AND OYSTER PIE For this dish use 
ley, green onions and slices of bacon with mace, the scrag end of the neck and the middle neck 
cloves and peppers in the usual way, for about under the shoulder, boil in one piece in seas- 
two and a half hours; when done, take up, oned white stock; when done, take up and cool, 
strain, boil and skim the braise, add some then cut into neat shaped pieces, place into the 
sherry or Madeira wine; use it as a sauce to the pie dish with a liberal quantity of scalded oys- 
fricandeau; serve garnished with any vegetable ters, make a good white sauce from the stock 
garnish or puree described in this work. It and oyster liquor, season with salt and nutmeg, 
may also be garnished with either Chipolata, add a little chopped parsley; pour over the con- 
Financiere or Toulouse garniture. tents of the pie dish, cover with a good short 

GRENADINS OF VEAL WITH SPINACH paste, glaze with egg wash, bake and serve. 

After removing the thick flank for fricandeau ROAST LOIN OR NECK OF VEAL Take the 

from a leg of veal, you have the buttock and loin or neck of veal, allowing the tops to be 

aitchbone left. Bone out the aitch on the leg; long, remove the bones and gristle, season with 

remove the marrow bone, split the buttock in salt and pepper, roll up and tie with twine, 

the natural seam, then slice the two sections roast gently without drying the skin into 

into cutlets or grenadins, lard and braise them; strings; serve with Bechamel sauce and garnish 

serve on a bed of pure"e of spinach . , . pure"e with small potato croquettes. 

of celery . . . pure"e of green peas . . . pure*e of CROUSTADE OF VEAL Take the blanquette 

red haricot beans, etc. of veal of a preceding recipe but cutting the 

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL Take cold roast meat into large dice, and serve in croustade 

or braised veal, remove the brown skin, and cases. 

then cut into neat scallops, add some button SALPICON OF VEAL Take the eminceofveal 

mushrooms, or scallops of truffle or tongue, of a preceding recipe and serve it in croustade 

moisten the whole with Allemande sauce, sim- cases, paper cases, or steamed and hollowed 

mer; serve garnished with small croquettes of out white turnips, 

rice ... or potatoes ... or veal forcemeat. BOUDINS OF VEAL TIMBALES OF VEAL 

SCALLOPS OF VEAL, ITALIAN SAUCE For Take the remains of cold veal, trim off the 

this dish use up the thick end of the loin, neck, skin, run it through the mincing machine with 

aitchbone, or leg; cut them into neat shaped some cooked bacon and button mushrooms, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



173 



then moisten with a very little sauce, thor- 
oughly stir over the fire till thick; butter some 
timbale or boudin molds, line them with 
browned bread crumbs, fill in the mince, steam 
them for about twenty minutes, then turn out 
and serve with mushroom, tomato, white Italian, 
brown Italian, Perigueux or Veloute sauces. 
They may also be garnished with finely shred 
noodles, green peas, macedoine or Jardiniere 
of vegetables, button mushrooms, etc. 

BROILED VEAL CHOPS Use either the loin 
or rib chops, trim, season with salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, brush with butter, broil and baste to a 
golden color; serve with maitre d'hotel, Col- 
bert, tomato, or Madeira sauces. 

CURRY OF VEAL For this dish use up the 
breasts, cut them into even sized pieces, remov- 
ing the thick bones, season with salt and pep- 
per, fry a very light color with clarified butter; 
take up and into the butter then fry a liberal 
amount of thinly sliced onions, add flour to form 
a roux, then the curry powder to taste, bring 
to the boil and skim; simmer for half an hour 
till the onions are well cooked, then rub through 
the tamis on to the pieces of breast; simmer 
then till the meat is done; serve within a border 
of rice, rissoto, macaroni, spaghetti or noodles. 

GALANTINE OF VEAL Take a large breast 
of veal and remove the bones, prick it and punch 
out the air if it has been blown, season with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little powdered 
thyme all mixed together, then spread it with a 
layer of veal forcemeat; on it lay a thinly beaten 



season it with salt and pepper, brush it all over 
with melted butter, then enclose it with a crust 
made of plain flour and water, bake it about an 
hour, then take up and remove the crust, place 
it in another baking pan on a stand, pour in a 
melted mixture of a half pint each of melted 
butter, red currant jelly, and boiling water; 
with the residue of the first pan it was baked 
in, if any, finish roasting and basting till done; 
serve with the gravy from the pan . . . The sad- 
dle or double loin, is generally encased with 
buttered paper instead of the crust . . . The rib 
and loin chops, are generally broiled and served 
with a jelly, piquant, Colbert, poivrade, finan- 
ciere, Portugaise or Bigarade sauces, or fried, 
or saute'ed and served with the same sauces or 
with a chestnut pure"e . . .The scrag and breasts 
are generally formed into a stew or a "CIVET 
OF VENISON." Made the same way as jugged 
hare (which see). . . The shoulder or the whole 
forequarter may be roasted and served with 
poivrade sauce, and red currant jelly sent to 
table separately. The cold cooked parts left 
over may be made into croquettes and cutlets 
and served with a game sauce made from the 
bones stewed down with herbs, and a little jelly 
and Madeira wine. The rougher parts may 
also be made into pies, and the cutlets made 
into a good VENISON PIE or patties or vol- 
au-vents. A good soup is made from the shanks, 
shins and head, boiled down rich, finished with 
a little Espagnole sauce, Madeira wine, lemon, 
cayenne pepper; served with game forcemeat 
balls and croutons. 



out and skinned sheet of pigs flare, down the 

centre place a column of red cooked tongue, on VERMICELLI A fine form of Italian paste 

either side of it a smaller column of cooked used in most of the ways applicable to maca- 

boiled salt pork, then sprinkle over a mixture of roni and spaghetti (which see). 

chopped whites and yolks of eggs with minced VERMOUTH A form of liquor cordial; used in 

pickled gherkins, cover with another lajer of making mixed drinks especially. 

veal forcemeat, draw the sides together and VINEGAR A distilled acid liquor of the wine 

sew into a neat roll with twine, then tie in a formation; used as a flavoring and a condiment. 

cloth and boil in wliite stock for two and a half VOL-AU-VENT A small hollow form of puff 

hours, take up and press till cold in the cloth pastry, used as a receptacle to viands. 

WAFFLES A form of batter cake pastry baked 
in waffle irons and eaten generally with powd- 
ered sugar or syrup. 

WALNUT A hard shelled nut, the interior of 
which is used for dessert, candies, etc. When 
plucked green they are used as a pickle after 
going through the pickling process. 

with a garnish of green peas, lima beans, chip- WHITEFISH A delicious fish obtained in our 
olata garniture, glazed carrots, mushrooms, lakes. It may be cooked and served in all the 

ways applicable to our lake trout. 
WOODCOCK A delicious game bird; cooked 
The leg and and served in all the ways of small game birds de- 



between two boards, then remove the cloth, 
wipe clean, glaze; serve in slices with crofltons 
of bright aspic jelly. 

STEWED BREAST OF VEAL Take the breast 
of veal and boil it whole till tender enough to 
take out the bones, then let become cold, cut 
into even sized pieces and stew it in a sauce 
made from the liquor it was boiled in; serve 



forcemeat balls, fried oysters, cauliflower, small 
white turnips, rice, mushrooms. 
VENISON The flesh of the deer, 
saddle are usually roasted. To roast the leg, 



scribed in this work. 



INDEX TO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Absinthe 


Page 


prlcot omelet 

patties or vol-an- vents 


Page 

i'i'is 


avarlan cream . 70 


Acid acetic 


1 


sausage 4.137 




68 








167 










85 










156 


incases 

a la Colbert 


* 


ean puree with onions 9 
salad 160 


Aerated waters 






I 






Bsarnaise sauce 17 & 155 


Albert sauce -. 


155 


with rloe 




Beef 10 




1 










1 










117 


Artichoke bottoms braised 4 
wlthfolegras.... 5 
with forcemeat.. 4 
with onions 
with ragout 
" stuffed. 5 
Artichoke chips 5 
fritters fi 






65 


bouillon with crusts 13 
Beef, braised, a 1* Allemande 11 
ala Baden-Baden 11 
a la Bignonne 12 
a la Bourgeois* 11 
a la Financier* 11 
a la Flarnande 11 
alaUodard 11 
alaMilanalse 11 
a la Napolltalne it 
a I'Orslni 11 




85 




156 


Alligator near 




" salad 
Allspice 


ISO 
1 
J 


deviled 




omelet 






1 








156 


salad 


160 


Alum 


1 


soup 






.... 1 






a la Piemontalse 11 
a la Provencale 12 
alaKlcheliea 11 


Anchovies 


1 


Artichokes 




bouchee of 


J] 


ala Barlgoule 






2 


boiled 






8 










1 






Bef, braised sirloin of, garnished. . . 11 
" " " wlthhorserad 1 
" witnmushrms 11 
"with quenelles 11 
" with rice cro- 
quettes 11 
" with sp veg'ls 11 
" " " with stuffed 
potatoes.. . 12 
" " with stuffed 
tomatoes . . 12 
" with truffles.. 11 
Beef, brisket of, with vegetables .... 10 




. ... 1 








5 






batter 


2 & 26 




1 




1& 86 










a laSoubise 


"6 & 




2 




j 


and cauliflower salad 






2 


fritters 


1 * 2 






omelet 

















salad ' 


2& 150 






Band wloh 






....1 




2 &165 




.641 




stuffing . .... 






cakes with egg... 14 


tartlnes 


j 








j 






col lops with mushrooms 13 


Andalonse (garnish) 


85 
155 


stewed 










Angel food 




jelly 






Angelica 


2 




1 


cutlets with piquante sauce.... 14 


Anglalse(garnlah) 








devilled with oysters 14 









... 86 




Aniseed, extract of 


81 


Aurora sauce 


155 
... . 86 


Beef, fillet of, al'Andalouse 12 
" a la Bayard 12 
" a la Chateaubriand .. 15 
" a la Jardiniere 1* 
" sauee provencale 18 
" with string beans .... 13 
" " a la Talleyrand 12 
Bepf. flank of . English style 11 
Beef, frizzled, on toast 10 


Apple bavarois* 






16F 




2 


Baba 




cake . 


< 




iy 


charlotte 






122 
















j 


cobbler 




Baking powder 


compote s 
cream ' 


Ballotlne 


( 


Beef, glazed ribs of, with macaroni. . 11 
" " with potato cro- 
quettes 11 
" with vegetables 11 
Beef hash corned 15 




i 










fritters 




fried 


i 
















Beef heart, boiled, with horseradish 16 


float 




salad 














fritters .... 


3 A 8 








Ice 




Barley 




Bsef, minced, with egg 14 
mirotonof, with vegetables.... 15 






marmalade 








meringue 




Bass 




patties with mushrooms 14 


pancakes 
pie 




boiled 




pickling 130 










pot pie 14 






broiled 








a laChambord 




ragout of, Creole sauce 15 
rissoles 14 




















tart 




fried 




roast . 10 


timbale 




a la Meunlere 






Apples 








sausages 16 & 138 


baked.... 




Batter 




saute of, truffle sauce i5 
scalloped with oysters 14 
scallops of. sauce Trianon 15 


fried 




for buckwheat cakes .... 
for corn griddle cakes 





glazed 








Apricot bavarolse 
cobbler 





for French pancakes 
for frying sweet foods & fruits 
for frying vegetables 
for graham griddle cakes 
for rice griddle cakes 
for Swiss pancakes .... 
for wheat griddle cakes 
for Yorkshire pudilng 


sbortrlbs 10 
Beef, small fillets of, maltre d 'hotel. 15 
" " " with oysters... 15 
Beef sandwiches, smoked 10 
Beef, smoked, with spinach 10 
Beef sonp, English and Scotch U 














fritters 


4 A 83 


jelly 




marmalade or jam.. 




" Jellied.... ... 15 



Pa/e 

Beef steak and kidney pie 14 

' and mushroom pie 14 

" and oyster pie 14 

Beef stew, German style 10 

Beef tongue, smoked, with spinach. . 15 
tteef tenderloin with blood gravy. . 
" with artichokes . . . 

" with oepes 

" with custards 

" a la julienne 

" a la macedoine . . . 
" with mushrooms.. 
" a la Nlvernalse . . . 
" a la Parislenne ... 
' ' a la Printaniere . . 
" with stuffed peppers 12 

" with vegetables 12 

Beef tenderloin steak, so. Bearnaise. 12 

' bordelalse . . . . 12 

' Parls.potatoes 12 

" sc.iPerlguenx. 13 

" " saute, peppers 13 

Beef tongue, braised, with tomatoes 15 

" corned with spinach... 16 

Beef, tournedos of, with olives 15 

Beet and egg salad 17 & 150 

greens IS 

and potato salad I 

Beets...... 16 

boiled in butter sauce 

for garnishing It 

pickled 16 

Beetroot and potato salad 15( 

Bell fritters 57 

Benedictine 17 & 65 

Berlin pancakes 75 

Bermuda onions, puree of u< 

Beyrou t sauce ' }' 

Bigarade sauce 15( 

Biscuits, cheese 4! 

Bisque 17 

of crabs 17 & B9 

of " Creolestyle 6 r 

of crayfish 1 

of herring 1 

of Jack rabbit 1 

of lobster 17 & 103 

of oysters I 1 " 

Of partridge 1' 

of plovers 1 

Of prawns (or shrimps 1' 

of salmon 1' 

of terrapin 11 

Bitter almond, extract of 8 

Black beans with rissoto ' 

Blackberries 18 



steaks, Italian sauce 19 

stuffed fillets of 20 

and baked 19 

oars head, glased 133 

ohemian sauce 156 

lohemlenne (garnish) 86 

Joiogna sausage 138 

" (Italian) 139 

Boned turkey 170 

tones (pigs) 131 

Jordelaise (garnish) 86 

sauce, brown and white 166 

stew (oyster) 121 



with cr 
charlotte . 
compote.. 

jeUy '.'.'.'.'.' 



pudding 

shortcake 

tartlets 1 

Blackbirds 1 

broiled on skewers 1 

compote of 



In potatoes 

salmis Of 

Blackcock 

" broiled, with jelly 

Blaokdl ver 

Blackflsh 

baked, oyster sauce 

boiled, Italian sauce 

broiled, with parsley 1 

fried, with bacon 1 

saute with flue herbs 1 

Black gome, roast, bread sauce 1 

Black grouse, braised " 

Black pudding 1 

Blanc mange 

" chocolate 

" corn 6b 

Blanch or blanched 

Blanquette 

Bladders (pigs) 13 

Bloaters 1 

toasted 

Blood (pigs) ....13 

sausage 138 

" (French) lc 

" (North Germany! 13 

Blueflsh 

baked, In crumbs 

" matelote sauce 

" with fine herbs 

" with tomatoes 



Page 

lueflsh, boiled, shrimp sauce 20 

broiled, with anchovy butter .. 20 

saute, admiral sauce 20 

chovies 20 



oz stew (oyster) 121 

ouohee 20 & 167 

of anchovies 21 

of chicken 20 

of crayfish tails 2u 

of fole-gras 20 

of game 2(1 

i game puree 20 



of lobsters 20 & 102 

with marrow 2C 

with mushrooms 21 

of oranges 21 

of oysters 2 

with oz palates 2 



of peaches 21 

of plums 2 

with ragout . 



a la Ueii 



alaSt. Hubert 20 

of salmon 

with salpicon . 
of sardines.... 
a la Seville. .. 

of sole 

of sweetbreads 
of woodcock... 

Bondin 

blano 

of fowl 

of hart 

delapln 

dellevre 

nolr 19 & 

of rabbit 
of veal 



de veau 

Bouergolse (garnish) 86 

sauce 166 

Roulettes of gume 

Bouillabaisse 

Bouillon, beef, with srusts. . 
Jourglgnotte or bonrglgnonne(garn ) Si 

Bourglgnotte sauce 156 

Brain cakes with bacon 2 



croquettes with peas 2 

cutlets, Villerol sauce 2 



kromeskies, Madiera sauce 25 

patties or vol am vents 26 

pigs 18 

Brains 23 



braised, with mushrooms 

" sauce Remonlade 

" with stuffed tomatoes. 

broiled, with parsley butter. . . . 

creamed, with kidney beans. . . . 

croustades of , with artichokes. 

fried, breaded, Tartar sauce 
' with brown butter 

and mushrooms In oases 

with rice, Turkish style 

roast, with forcemeat balls .... 

in sauce Poulette with rice 

scalloped. In shell 

crambled 

with sorrel, sauce Ravlgote 

Braise and braising 

K ran died cherries ' 

Brandy 



Bread. 



white versus brown S 



Bressoise sauce 1! 

Bretonne (garnish) 8 

sauce, cold and hot 156 

Brie ... 



Brli 



for ham. pickles, etc If 

Brioche fritters 73 

Brochette 

of calf's brains . 

of chicken livers.. ...... 



rochette of duck livers 23 

of crayfish tails 23 

of eels 22 

of geese livers 22 

of lamb fries 29 

of lamb kidneys 21 

of lobster 22 

of mussels 18 

of mutton 22 

of ortolans 120 

of oysters 21 & 122 

of reed birds 23 

of pigs' kidney* 22 

of rabbit 22 

of scallops 23 

of smelts 23 

f spring lamb 22 



of sweetbreads.. 

of turkey 23 

of turkey livers 23 

of veal 22 

rook ti out with quenelles 189 

" broiled 169 

Jroth, beef , with celery 13 

chicken, with artichokes 56 

with asparagus tips... 56 

" with custards 65 

' wlthonions 66 

with peached egg 16 

" with rice 65 

" with sorrel 16 

" with spring vegetables 54 

clam 68 

runolse 



irunswlck, cervelat sausage 139 

Brussels sprouts 25 

boiled 25 

in cream 25 

with parsley butter. 25 

puraeof 25 

sautees 25 

Buck 25 

Buckv 



heat 



cakes 

Bulsson ...! 
Burbot ................................ 78 



........ 25 



Butter 25 

adulterations 26 

anchovy 2& 26 

apple 2 



cakes 25 

crayfish 26 

drawn 26 

garlic 28 

horseradish 26 & 96 

lobster 26 

maltred hotel 26 

montpeller 16 

peach 127 

pepper 26 

plum l.ii 

ravigote 26 

shrimp 26 

Bntterball duck 26 

Butterlne or margarine 26 

Button onion soup with peas. 119 

Cabbage 26 

baked, with cheese 27 

" with ham 26 

boiled 26 

" German style 27 

braised 27 

creamed 26 

wltheuga 27 

fried, with bacon 27 

an gratln 27 

paupiettesof 27 

pickled 27 

salad 27*150 

stewed 26 



stuffed 26 

timbalM 27 

Cafe 27 

Callles 28 

Cake.apple 2 

chocolate 57 

citron 58 



plum ........................... 135 

Cakes, batter .......................... 8 

beef, with egg ................... 14 

brain, with bacon .............. 34 

butter .......................... 25 

codfish ........................... 61 

erab ........................... 87 

flannel .......................... 8t 



sausage, with potatoes 
22 Cairs brains, broonette of 



2 Calf 



176 



Pa^e 



Calf's brains, parsley sauce 

sauce vlnalgreite... 
savory omelet of 

Calf's ears, boiled, sauce villeroi...~.~ 29 



fried, tomato sauce 29 Calipee and calipash 

ragout of, in croustades. 29 Cambridge sausage i;;i 

" 



" stuffed, t-auce bordemibe 29 
" with truffles, so. trianon. 30 
" turtlectyie 29 

Calfsfeet 3U 

" boiled, poivrade sance... 30 
" crepinettes, sc prov'caie 80 

" croustades of " 

" f rlcasee of 3U 

' in batter, Italian sauce. 30 

" jelly 80 

" witb mushr'm, BC.poulett 30 
" steamea, sc. remoulade. 30 

Calf's head . . . 

" with bacon & parsley sc. 28 
" baked with chipolatagar 28 

' English style 2& 

" German style 28 

" " sance main tenon.. 28 
" boiled, sauce vinaigrette il- 
' and brnlns, mush room sc. 28 
" " " sauc poivrade 29 
" braised, with veal quen'Js !28 

" curried with rice 29 

" withflnanclereragomt... 28 

" fried, tomato nance 28 

" fricassee of .wlthveg'bles i'. 1 
" with olives, tomato sauce *9 

" sauce Itallenne 28 

" sauce poulette 28 

" soup, Portugese style.... 29 
" with quenelles 29 
" muffed, sauce papilotte. 29 
" and tongue, plquante sc. 28 
" " " ragout of.... 29 
" tu-t'e style 

Calf's heart, larded. sauce Andalouse 30 

' stuffed and braised 

" Madiera sanoe.. 30 

Calf's kidneys, broiled, parsley butter 3o 
" croquettes with peas. 31 

In cronstades 31 

" fried, sauce colbert. . . 31 
larded, Madeira sanoe 30 

" omelet 31 

" pattlesof 81 

" ragout of 81 

" sautes with mushr'ms 30 

Calf's liver and bacon with spinach . 31 

" broiled, Italian sauce 31 

" braised, with vegetables . 31 

" with crisped onions 31 

" frid, with fine herbs 31 

" potted, with aspic Jelly... 32 
" quenelles In crumbs 82 



saute, with bacon 



" scallops of, with mushr'm 31 



....... 

" tlmbale of , piquant sauce 32 



Calf's tongue, fried, sauce Robert.... 
with potatoes.mush.so 3 

sauce tartare 

saute, vinaigrette 

California shoulders, pickling of ... .132 



Cam* m oert 3S 

Canapes 36 

Abei deen 36 

anchovy 14 2 

Borne, or 8wls canapes.... 

Cabillaud 

Of caviar 3o & 40 

chasseur 

cheese 36 

chicken 35 

of chicken livers 35 

of crab 35 it 6a 

Creole 35 

In Ian 86 

Lorenzo 85 

Madison 35 

Madras 

olive 35 

of oranges liu 

of oysters 36 

of potted ham 35 

of potted tongue 36 

sardine 36 

savory 

Bcotch 36 

of shrimps 36 

of smoked salmon 36 

Swiss 36 

Windsor 

Winchester 36 

Canard 

Candied peel fritters 82 

'aimed goods 36 

'au nelons 36 

Canteloupes 86 

- pers 36 

Caper sauce .156 

" forflsh 156 

Capercailzie 

)apor s 

boiled stuffed, celery sauce 37 

" with mllanaise garnish.. 37 

" mushroom sauce 37 

' with sait pork 87 

" with tongue & cauliflower 37 
braised, with chlpolata garnish 
with quenelles, sauce 

periguenz 87 

sauce supreme 37 

" with tomatoed rice .... 37 

roast, with noodles 37 

" stuffed, glblet sauce. ... 37 

" " with rice 37 

Capon, stewed, with vegetables 37 



Capsicums 



Calf's sweetbreads, blanqnette of . . . . :-;:>! (garnish) 

braised, garnished... 33 sance. 



broiled, sauce colbert 32 
with brown butter... 32 

In cases Si 

casserole of 83 

withcream'dmush'm X4 
In cream, on toast... 32 
croquettes with peas 32 
cronstade of curried. s:i 
outlets of. with veg'bl 33 

with demt glace 33 

fried, mushr'm sance 34 
" sauce perlgueuz 32 
' sauce villerol... 34 



itb financier ragout 33 Carp saute, admiral sau 



glazed. French beans 

kromeskies of 84 

larded and braised, 

mushroom sance . 3" 
larded, sauc touiouse 33 
patties of, scrambled 33 
ragout of, with morels 34 
" on toast.... 34 
rissoles of .vegetables 32 
saute of. with baked 

tomatoes 84 

sautes with peas 32 

scalloped 8. 

In shell 82 

stewed, kidney beans 34 

tlmbale of 83 

Calt>s tongue, braised, tomato sance. 32 



Cardoons 8! 

Carmine Sf 

Carp... 



baked, sauce genose 

' sauce matelote 

boiled, caper sauce 

braised stuffed SHUceallpruar.de 38 
broiled stuffed, flnes-herbes sc. 
lemon parsley butter... 

fried, piqnante sauce 

Carp roes, boiled, sauce supreme 

fried, sauce tartare 

pattlesof 

scalloped, in shell 



Carrots 8* 

carried, with rice 39 

braised new, parsley sance 

glazed new, with butter 39 

new, in brown gravy 89 

" in cream 88 

" poulette sauee 89 

pnree of 146 

salad with asparagus tips 39 

sauce 15 

saute of new 

SOUP 

stewed, with green peas 

Carving 39 

< 'ases 97 

Casserole 89 

Cassia 



Cassolett* s 

Catfish 89 

Catsup, anch 



mushroom 109 

CanHpigs) 131 

Cauliflower, baked 40 

boiled, Hollandaise sauce 40 

cream of 40 

fried, allemande sauce 40 

with mayonnaise 40 

pickled 40 

puree of 40 

salad 404HO 

sance 40 & 156 

scalloped 40 

stewed 



'avlar. 



40 



witb egg 40 

eggs stuffed with 40 

tart I nt s 40 

on toast with olives 40 

^elerlac 41 

Celery 40 

baked, with eheese 41 

boiled, with onions 41 

braised, on toast 41 

consomme 41 

cream of 41 

fried, sauce villeroi 41 

fritters 41 

41 
41 



with marrow 

mayonnaise of... 
patties 



pnree of 145 

" and onions 41 

salads Ho 

sauce, brown and white 156 

saute 41 



wed, on toast ................ 41 

Cepes ................................. 41 

broiled, on toast ................. 42 

omelet with .... ............... 42 

saute of . on toast ............. 41 

ed, on toast ................. 41 



stev 



42 



sreal 



'erises glaces a la Cbantilly 46 

Cerveauz an beurre noir 24 

en coqullle au gratin 24 

Cervelas 42 

Cervelat sausage, Brunswick 139 

Cervelatpoise or Danlh beef and 

pork sausage 137 

Cenrelles 42 

hablls 43 



hadeau sauce 167 

Chafing dish 42 

)hambord (garnish) 86 

sauce 167 

Champagne 43 

..157 
..157 



auc 



hantansen sauce 



hantilly. 



cream 41 

soup 4* 

Charcoal 42 

harlotta 43 



blackberry 18 



peach 1S8 

cherry 46 

Chartreuse 42 & 65 

peach 128 

r 43 

sauce 156 

Chateaubriand 48 

sane* 167 



Jhaudfroid 48 

sanoe 157 

Cherries 44 

brandled 45 

In croustades 46 

glazed, with whipped cream.... 46 

berry charlotte 46 

cobbler 46 

compote 46 

flawn.... 46 



meringue 46 

pie 46 

' deep 46 

pudding 46 

rol y-poly 46 

sanoe 167 

sherbet 4ft 

tarts 4ft 

trifle 4ft 



177 



Page 

Cherry water ioe 4 

Cheese 43 

biscuits... 

boinbe 

camera bert 

canapes 8 



club 

cones 

cottage 48 

custard 4 

fingers 44 

flans 44 

fritters 4 

gruy ere 92 

liver, Italian style 3 

lobster 101 

omelet 4 

parmesan 124 

potted 



ramequlns 

sandwiches 

savories 

scallops 43 

souffles 44 

straws 4 

Swiss 95 

Cheesecakes, apple 

Chemise 4 

Chervil 45 

Chestnuts 45 

devilled 46 

forcemeat 46 

puree of 46 & 145 

soup 46 

Cbevrenll sauce 157 

Chiantl 

Chicken, blanched, with veloutesauc 48 

blanquette of, with truffles 

boiled larded, with macaroni... 50 

' with salt pork, parsley sc 48 

" with veg'bl.allemandesc 50 

" boned 61 

boucheeof 20 

Cklcken, braised fillets of, Hanover sc 49 
" with green peppers 49 

" with macaroni 48 

" with mushrooms... i>0 



supreme 52 

broiled 46 

" hunter's style 48 

Chicken broth with artichokes 56 

" with asparagus 66 

" with custards 5 

" with onions 66 

" with poached egg 6fi 

" with rice 65 

" with sorrel 66 

" with spring vegetabl's 56 

Chicken canapes 35 

cannelon of, tartar sauce 53 

capllotade of 63 

chartreuse of, with string beans 50 

chandfrold of 60 

with chestnut puree and veg'bls 48 

co 1 1 ops of, with macaroni 54 

consomme 6f> 

Chicken, cream of 55 

" " with quenelles ... 65 

" " with rice 65 

' with tomatoed 

quenelles 68 

Chicken croquettes 46 

croustades of 63 



curried, with rice 



Chicken cutlets with green peas 60 

mlncpd sc bordelalse 46 
' of, with vegetables.. 47 
Chlcken.epigramme of, tomato sauce 48 
Chicken, fillets of, with asparagus pts 50 
ir4inal sauo 52 



Pag 
Chicken giblets stewed, with rice .... 54 

gumbo 6 

Chicken halibut 98 

and ham hashed with rice 6 

ham and tongue sausage 140 

haricot of. with vegetables 4 

hash with peppers on toast. . . . 

" with stuffed peppers 

kromeskies, sauce perlguenx.. 

legs, boiled, witb green peas.. 

" devilled, witb bacon 

Chicken livers, brochette of 

" canapes of 



... 22 



' forcemeat 

" omeletof 

roast, on toast 

" saute of, on toast.. 

" stewed, with mush'rs 64 

Chicken, Maryland style 41 

mateloteof 41 

mayonnaise 56 & 16 

a la Marengo 4! 

minced, with poached egg K 

panada with eggs on toast K 

patties, sauce supreme 61 

pie 4i 

pies, small, French style 4' 

potted, for sandwiches K 

potpie 

puree of 66 

quenelle forcemeat 5 

" with mushrooms 61 

" with truffles.BC supreme 63 

with rice, maltese style 47 

rissoles of 5 

roast boned 5: 

' with m ushr'ms & bread sc 48 

" oyster sauce 4' 

salad 56&12 

salpicon of , with potatoes 5 

sausages, sauce Hollandaise ... 63 
'hlcken, saute of, with bouchees .... 61 

' with mushrooms 4> 

" with oysters 6J 

" with potato balls 63 

with rice and leeks . . 
with rlssoto 



Chicken, scalloped. 



Chicken soup, Creole style. '.'.'.'.'.'. '.'.'..'. 6 

English style 55 

with noodles 

with peas puree 

Portuguese style 65 

with rice and .eeks 6 

Southern style 66 

Turkish style 56 



with vegetab es 



65 



Chicken, ipitchcocked.crapandlne so. 49 



Chicken 



Chicken forcemeat 50& 82 Chili sauce 167 

' balls curried, with rice 50 Chipolata. . . , 66 

" fried, tomato sauce... 63 (garnish) 86 

Chicken, fricassee of 4K Chi 



Chicken, fried 41; Chlvry (garnish) 

' In hatter, tomato sauce 4R Chocolate 



breast of, corn fritters 52 
' with cucumber puree.. 4!' 

' fricassee of 47 

Indian style 49 

" with rice and okras . . . . 52 
Chicken fritters plquante sauce .... 53 

galantine of 61 & 84 

giblets, ragout of, with potato 

croquettes 64 

glbletsoup 64 



hlcken, stewed, with dumplings 

' wlthestragon 60 

" German style 61 

" Mexican style 49 

with rice 49 

" sauce provenoale.. 62 

" sauce ravigote 62 

' Spanish style 47 

" with tomatoes 47 

" Turkish style 47 

tufled with chestnuts, Ma 

delra sauce 47 

11 breast of, cucumbers 62 
" " " sc.perigueu f 2 
" Astewed.sc.mllanals 49 
of, with rice. perigueux 47 
" " with toulouse ragout 47 
tim bales of .with f orc'meat balls 53 
vol-au-vertof, with quenelles.. 51 

Chicory 46480 

salad 150 

Chlffonade 66 

Chillies 37 



blancmange 56 

cake 57 

cream 67 

" fritters M 

cup custards 67 

float 67 

fritter* 88 

Icecream 67 

Icing 76 

Pudding 67 



Choux de bruxelles 

croutons 



Chow chow 67 



Chowder, cla 

codfish 

Philadelphia 
Chutney 

apple 
Cider 
Cinnamon 

extract of ... 



El 



................................... 

broiled, lemon parsley sauce. . . 67 
fillets of, in batter .............. 67 

saute, julienne potatoes 



57 
Citric acid... ......... . ............... 58 

Citron ................................. 58 

cake ........................... 68 

Civet of venison ....................... 173 

Jlams.. 



broiled ........................... 6$ 

broth ............................. 68 

chowder ........................ 68 

cocktail .......................... 60 

cream of ......................... 59 

croquettes ....................... 58 

forcemeat ....................... 68 



fritters 
roast 
scalloped 
ionp 

steamed .. 
stew. 



68 

68 

Claremont sauce 157 

Claret sauce 167 

Cloves 9 

extractor 81 

Club cheese 44 

Cobbler 59 

apple 4 

cherry 45 

peach 128 

Ooblenz sausage 139 

Cochineal 69 

Coohon 69 

delait.... 69 

Cock-a-leekle soup 65 

Jockie-leekle soup 69 

Cookies... 69 

Cocks-combs 59 

Cocksk.rnelB 59 

Cock tat Is 59 



Neptune 60 

oyster 60 

Cocoa 69 

Jocoannt 69 

3ocotte 69 

Cod, boiled salt, cream sauce 61 

creamed fresh, on toast 60 

crimped, shrimp sauce 61 

cutlet fried, plquante sauce. . . . 60 

an gratln 61 

and oyster pie 123 

French style 61 

tod's roes, boiled, butter sauce 61 

broiled, butter sauce 61 

fried, caper sauce 61 

smoked 61 

'Od, salt, shredded and creamed 61 

scalloped 61 

scrambled, on toast 61 

tod's sounds, fricassee of , with oystrs 61 
stuffed, oyster sauce.. 61 
'od steak, boiled, with anchovies... 60 
breadcrumbed, parsley sc 60 
broiled, colbert sauce 60 

curried . with rlssoto 60 

fried, tomato sauce 60 

saute, club style 61 

odflsh 60 

baked, caper sauce 60 

stuffed with oysters 60 

breadcrumbed 60 



" balls . 
boiled, egg sauce.. 
cakes 



chowder 81 

hash, salt. New England style . 2 

scalloped fresh! .'.'.'......... 61 

odflsb tongues, boiled, egg sauce ... 61 

patties 63 

scalloped fresh .... 61 

x>ffee 2 

Icecream 63 

Ognac 3 



C-D 





Pa< 62 




Pa< 65 


Creamed fresh mushrooms 109 
macaroni 104 


sanoe 


157 


with turnips 


65 


Cole slaw 


62 

27 


vermicelli 
volatile 


P5 
65 


onions 
oysters on toast 
Crecy 


118 
123 
U 


Combination salads 


154 


Coq 


66 


Compote 


, 62 
3 


d. Brurere 
d'Inde 


65 

65 


Creole canapes 


""so'&m 
















18 






Crepes 






. 18 


Cordials 


65 






cherry 


45 


Coriander 


65 
66 


Creplnettes 


71 




119 




127 




66 


salad. 


1 ] 


of pigeon 


133 

K2 


Corned beef hash 


15 




71 


Corn blanc mange 66 
bread, jobnny cake or corn dodgr 66 
dodger .... 5 


Cretesdecoq 


5!" 
167 


Conttture fritters 83 
Conger eel, boiled, allemande sanoe . 78 
" curried with riCd 78 
" fried, tartar sauce 78 
11 roast stuffed, admiral sc. 78 




71 


fritters 


...66&8S 
66 


Croquenbouchees 


67 




71 




67 




... . 3 




g 


bass 






62 


hulled. 


66 




13 




... .62 


Corn meal or Indian pudding 


6 
66 


brain, with peas 
chicken 


S4 




. 62 


with asparagus tips 


65 
62 


" mash . 


66 


clam 


68 






crab 






63 


mush fried 


66 


of ham with green peaa 
hominy 




beauvllllers 


63 




67 


96 




63 


salad 


67 




112 




. 63 




67 




104 


brunoise 


63 
63 


starch 


87 




.. . 123 






67 


partridge sauce Perlgu 


enz. ...126 
13t> 




41 & 63 




67 




..63 




66 


potato 


143 


chantlHy 


63 








. ... 63 




43 




lot 


chicken 




Courtbouillon 


67 


stuffed potato 






. 63 




157 




16*5 




63 
63 






turkey 


170 














63 


baked 


n 




71 


with corn 


66 
63 




17 & 69 


caviar 


40 




67 
67 






cakes 




126 




... 63 




35 A 68 


of rice 


149 




65 


Creole style 


68 
63 




71 








71 


d'Orsay 


... 63 


croustade of 
devilled 


68 
68 
68 


Cucumbers 


71 
71 




63 




63 




71 




63 




. 68 


curried 


71 




64 




68 




72 




64 




68 




71 




64 




68 


fried, with marrow 


71 




64 




68 




71 


imperial 


'.".". 64 




68 


ketchup 
and onion salad 
pickled 


::::::::: 8 

73 


Indienne 


64 


a la Reine 


68 
68 & 151 




62 




. 64 




. . .69 




71 




64 






salad 


72 A 151 


julienne 


64 


scalloped 


68 




157 


Kurael 


64 






stuffed, with forcemeat 


71 




64 




68 


72 




64 


toast 


67 

68 


Cap custards, chocolate .. .. 
ices 


67 

96 




64 


Marie Stuart 


64 




69 




654 72 


Massena. 


64 


Pranberrv iam 


69 


sauce 


158 




64 






Card 






64 


je 7 ...... 


69 


Curing 






64 


roll . . . 


69 




72 




64 




158 


dried 






64 




70 






Naudier 


64 




70 








64 




157 












70 


Costard 




with noodles 


64 


bisque of 


17 


apple 


3 


Palestine 


65 


butter 


20 


cheese 
fritters 


|* 




65 


" brochette of 


23 
70 






pattl 


65 








65 


anchovy 


;;;;;;;; > 

3 


Cutlets 


77 






Bavarian 






72 


Prince de Galles 


65 




40 


Dandelion 


73 




65 




41 


salad. 




printaniere 


65 


chantllly 


42 

U 


Danish beef and pork sansag 


e 137 


with quenelles 
Rachael. 


65 
66 


' " with quenelles .... 55 
" " with rice -- >> 






Darloles... 


73 




66 




67 




73 






of olnms 


59 




78 


nvoll 


66 


dressing 


...164 


D'Artols 


.... 73 








70 




86 




66 




100 


Dates 


73 


Bt. Xavier 


65 
65 


of lentils 


100 
67 & 70 


Date pudding 
Daube 


73 

73 




66 


flau 


"...70 




73 




65 




. 121 


(garnish) 


86 




65 




70 




73 


talma 


... 66 


whipped. ... 


70 


Dent-de-llon 


73 



D-E 



Devils ................................. 73 

Devilled almonds ..................... 1 



.101 



E-F 



F-G 



179 



oysters 121 

rabbit 147 

Dewberries 18 

Diable sauce 168 

Dlablotlns 73 

Diamond back 73 

Digest, medical table of time 73 

Digestion 73 



Eggs, shirred 78 

stuffed 78 

" with caviar 40 

EKK plant, broiled, on toast 80 

with cheese 80 

fried 80 

fritters 80 

salad 151 

stewed 80 

stuffed 80 

" Turkish style 80 

Emlnce of crab (58 



Dindon 74 

Diplo mate sauce 158 

Dolmas 74 

Doucette (corn salad) 67 

Doughbirds 74 

Brawn butter 26 

Dressing, cream 154 

French 154 

Hollandalse 164 

Dry stew (oyster) 121 

Duchesse (garnish) 86 

sauce 168 

Dumas (garnish) 86 

Dumplings, apple 3 

lemon 100 

peach 128 

Dnrand (garnish) 86 

Dutch sauce 76 

D'Uxelles 76 & 158 

Duck, boiled, parsley sauce 74 

boned stuffed, with aspic 74 

braised, with sauerkraut 75 

" with vegetables 75 

curry, with rice 76 

Ducks and ducklings 74 

Ducks' giblet soup 16 

" stewed, in border 76 

Ducks' livers, brochette of 22 & 76 

scallops 76 

Duck, roast, orange sauce 74 

" with peas, Hanover sauc 74 

Duck, salplcon of, In cases 75 

Duck, salmis of, in croustade 7i> 

" " with fried hominy.. 75 

Duck, saute of, with chestnuts 75 

" " with noodles 76 

" " with olives 75 

Duck, stewed, with green peas 76 

" with puree of peas.... 76 
with stuffed tomatoes. 76 

" with turnips 75 

Duck, stuffed, Italian sauce 76 

Duckling, broiled.wlth devilled buttr 14 

fillets of, macedoine 76 

fried fillets of, sauce bigarade.. 76 

stuffed, orange sauce 76 

Ears, pig's 131 

Kcarlate 77 

Ecarlette (garnish) 87 

Eclairs 57&77 

Eel-pout 78 

Eel salad 77 & 151 

Eels 77 

baked, London style 77 

boiled, maitre d'hotel 77 

brochette of 22 

broiled boned 77 

braised, Allemande sauce 77 

fricassee of 77 

fried, shrimp sauce 77 

grilled, London style 77 

matelote of 77 

orly of 77 

roast, anchovy butter 77 

stewed, London style 77 

Egg patties 78 

powder 6 

rarebit 78 

salad 161 



En caisse. 

dive 

lad. 



English beef soup. 

Splgramme 

Kpplng sausage 
Espagnole sauce.. 
Extracts 



Extract of Aniseed 81 

of bitter almond 81 

of cinnamon 81 

of cloves 81 

of lemon 81 

of sarsaparilla 81 

of vanilla 81 

of wlntergreen 81 

Tancy fry (oysters) 122 

Farina 81 

pudding, baked 81 

" boiled 81 

fritters 81 

Fat, fresh lard-back 131 

pigs gut 1 31 

pigs kidney 131 

Fennel. 



81&158 

Fermlere (garnish) 87 

Figs 81 

Flnanciere 81 



sauce 

(garnish) 

Fine herbs 

sauce 

innanhaddie 



Eggs. 



breaded, Creole sauce 79 

with brown butter 79 

with caviar 79 

In croustade 79 

curried 78 

devilled 78 

fricassee ef 7J 

an grat In 7f 

Indian style 7{ 

masked. Madeira sauce 78 

molded, provencale sauce 78 

with onion puree 79 

poached 78 

salplcon of 79 

scrambled 

" In oases 71 

" with tomatoes 79 



" Aberdeen style.. 

" butter sauce 

" with tomatoes... 

boiled.. 

" cream sauce 98 

broiled 81 

" lobster butter... 93 

Delmonico style 81 

saute, parsley sauce. . . 93 

Flageolets 9&82 

Flamande (garnish) 87 

flannel cakes 82 

Flannel griddle cakes 

flemish sauce , 

Float, chocolate 57 

Flounders 82 



chocolate 83 

chocolate cream 56 

confiture j-3 

corn 66483 

crab 68 

cream 70 

custard 83 

egg-plant 80 

farina 81 

fruit 83 

German 83 

orange 83&119 

oyster plant 124 

parsnip 83*126 

peach 83&128 

pineapple 83 

potato 143 

Queen ts 

rhubarb 149 

rice 83 

Spanish puff 83 

Progs 83 

fried, tartar sauce 83 

omelet, Southern style 84 

Frogs legs, broiled 83 

" fricassee of 83 

" saute, bordelaise 84 

poulette 84 

" provencale 84 

" Southern style 84 

" stewed, with peas 83 

Fruit fritters 83 

jelly 97 

Tnmet sauce 169 

Gala 



Flour.graham 90 

Foie-gras.. : 82 

bouchee of 20 

Fonds d'artlcbauta a 1'Itallenne 6 

alaMontglas.... 5 
a la Strasbourg.. 6 
a la Supreme .... 6 



Forbidden fruit.... 

Forcemeat .., 

Forcemeat balls, chicken, curried. 



liver 

Forcemeat, brain 34 

chestnut 46 

chicken 50 & 82 

fried, tomato sauce 63 

" liver 54 

" quenelle 61 

clam 68 

crab 

ham and liver 
veal 



Fore hams or California shoulders. . .132 

Fowl, boudin of : 21 

Frangipane 82 

Frankforts 82 

Frankfort sausages (welnerwnrst) . . .140 

Frappe 82 

French dressing 82 & 15 

French salad 161 

Frlantine 

Fricadelles: also called Fricandelles. 82 

Fricandean 82 

78 Fries, lamb 99 

Fritters 89 

apple 8A83 



Fritters, apple custard. 



Page 

anchovy ...lit 2 

apricot 4*83 

artichoke 

banana 7 

brioche 73 

candied peel '." 82 

celery 41 

cheese 44 

cherry 45 

chicken, piquante sauce 53 

olai 



tines . 



f-4 



93 Game. 



Galantine of turkey 170 

Sail (pig's) 131 

bouchee of I.'.'.'.'.'.';.".";;.'!.'!''.'.'.' 20 

boulettes of 21 

salad li2 

puree, bouchee with 20 

Garden parties 84 

Gardener's salad 151 

Garfish 85 

Garlic 85 

batter 26 

Garnishes 85 

158 Garniih, admiral 

Africaine 

Allemande 

Andalouse 

Anglaise 

D'Artols.. 



Aurora.. 




Bohemienne 86 

Bordelaise 86 

Bourgeoise 86 

Bourgignonne 86 

bourglgnotte 86 

Bretonne 86 

cardinal 86 

chambord 86 

chi polata 86 

ohlvry 86 

86 



Dauphine 

Duchesse 86 

Dumas 86 

Dnrand 86 

ecarlate 87 

f ermlere 87 

flnanclere 87 

flamande 87 

godard 87 

gourmet . . 87 

Greque 87 

Hussard 87 

Journeanz 87 

an jns 86 

macedoine , 87 

Marinlere 87 

matelote 87 

Mtlanalse 87 

mushroom 108 

Napoli taine 17 

NlverralM 87 

88 



i8o Q 

Page 

Garnish, paysanne 

perigueux , 

provencale 

Regency 

Hichelieu 8f 

Rouennalse 88 

Royale 

boubise 

Stanley 

supreme 89 

tortu 8S 

Toulouse t>9 

Geese livers, brochvtte of 2S 

Gems, corn 

Geneveise sauce 

Genoise sauce 159 

German fritters 

potato salad 152 

sauce 159 

salad 161 

Gherkins 

Giblets 89 

pie 64489 

pot pie 64 

and potato pie 64 

ragout of, with potato croquette 89 

sauce 54&89&159 

soup 

" clear 

with rice 

stewed, with green peas 

Glace 89 

Globe artichokes, Colbert sauce 

" stuffed 

Godard sauce 159 

(garnish) 

Godlveau 82 ^ 

Goidenbuck 43 

sauce 159 

Goose 

boiled, with pickled pork 90 

braised, with sausages 90 

" with vegetables 90 

with kraut, German style 90 

roast, apple sauce 90 

' green, gooseberry sauce.. 90 

" with oyster stuffing 90 

" stuffed with chestnuts... 9U 
" stuffed with godlveau... 90 

Stuffed, with glazed apples 90 

" with glazed turnips.... 90 

Goose liver sausage, truffled 140 

Gooseberry sauce 90 & 159 

Gorgonzola 90 

Goulash 

Gourmet (garnish) 

Graham flour 90 

griddle cakes 8 

Grape fruit 91 

Jam 90 

Jelly 90 

Grapes, frosted 90 

Gray llngr 91 

Green corn batter cakes 67 

" roast 67 

" saute 

Green grape Jelly 91 

Green pea sou p 129 

Green turtle soup. 171 

Greengage 91 

Green and wax beans. . . 9 

Grenadins 91 

Greque (garnish) 87 

Griddle cakes 8 

Grouper 92 

baked, Gulf style 92 

boiled, caper sauce 92 

" matelote garnish 92 

ante, lobster sauce 92 

stuffed and baked, tomato sane 92 

Grouse 91 

broiled, with bacon . 91 

braised, with glazed carrots.... 91 

cutlets breadcrum bed 92 

glazed, sauce trianon 91 

roast, bread sauce 91 

" hunters style 91 

" Scotohstyle 91 

salmis of 91 

stewed, with green peas 91 

stuffed fillets of. with quenelles 91 

mushroom sauce 91 

Gruel, cdrn meal 66 

Gruyereor Swiss (cheese) 92 

(iuava 92 

Guinea hen 92 

" braised stuffed 92 

" broiled, with bacon 92 

" roastlarded 92 

- " sauce Beam also... 92 



G-H 



H-I-J-K-L 



66 



oyster 124 

Gut fat ( pigs) 131 

Haddock 92 

baked stuffed 92 

boiled, oyster sauce 92 

broiled fresh, anchovy butter.. 93 

creamed, with oysters 93 

fillets of, breadcrmb'd, Dutch sc 

" " saute 93 

Haggis 93 

Hair (pigs) 13 



Halibut 93 

baked, egg sauce RS 

boiled 93 

creamed, with mushrooms 93 

Halibut steak, boiled, cream sauce.. 93 

" broiled 93 

creamed, with mushr's 93 
" fried, with bacon . . . 
" saute, tomato sauce.. 93 



boiled, with lima beans 9* 

braised, with vegetables 91 

croquettes of, with green peas 

and liver forcemeat 82 

minced, with egg 94 

Hams.... ....131) 



pickling 13U 

" ofrolled 182 

Ham, roast, champagne sauce 94 

" stuffed 9 

sauce 159 



stewed, with spinach 94 

Hamburg steak with onions 13 



tomatoed 94 

mover sauce 169 

ird sauee It9 



Hare 94 

braised, with game croquettes. 94 

bondln of 21 

civet of, hunters style 94 

cutlets of, plquante sauce 95 

fillets of, sautes 91 

" " polvrade sauce 9 

' " tomato sauce 9 

fried fillets of 95 

jugged 95 

larded saddles of 95 

scallops of, with fine herbs 95 

' " with tongue, sauce 

perigueux ... 
stuffed saddle of, with Jelly 

Haricot beans, Boston style 

with bacon 

cream sauce 

puree 

Haricot soup, family style 

H arrogate sauce 159 

Hash, beef 14 



chicken, with peppers, on toast. 53 
' with stuffed peppers.. 63 

corned beef 15 

salt codfish, New England style t>2 
Hashed chicken and ham with rice.. 64 

Havraise sauce 169 

Heart, pigs LSI 

Heath fowl, salmis of 19 

Herbs, fine 81 

Herring 



baked fresh, fennel sauce 95 

" stuffed 95 

bisque of 17 

boiled fresh, cream sauce 9 

" fresh, shrimp sauce 96 

boned fresh, on toast 95 

broiled fresh, mustard sauce... 95 

curried fresh, with eggs 95 

fried fresh, mustard butter 95 

alad 152 

soused 95 

Hickory 96 

Hoe cakes 98 



Hollandalse dressing :64 

sauce 159 

Horseradish 96 

butter 26 & sm 



Hominy 96 

boiled 9 

croquettes 96 

Honey, quince 140 

Hoofs (pigs) 131 



Hot slaw 27 

ot pot or botch potch 96 

Hulled corn 66 



Hunter's style 



Hussard (garnish) 

1 ce, ap pie '. '. . ] ] i . "3 



Icecream 70 

banana : . . . 7 

chocolate 67 

coffee 6S 



Iced froths 96 

peaches 128 

snowballs . 96 



Imperial 96 



Tcing, chocolate... 

Imperial ices 

Indian canapes-... 



67 



omelet 

pudding 

stew (oyster). 

Indlenne sauce 

hi 



Irish stew 96 & 111 

Isinglass 97 

Italian salad 152 

sauce, white and brown 160 

Jack rabbit, bisque of 17 

Jam.apricot 4 

blackberry 18 

cranberry 69 

grape 90 

orange 119 

rhubarb 148 

Jardiniere (garnish) 97 

sauce 160 



Jell led oranges 119 

Jelly 97 

apricot 97 

aspic 6 



blackberry 97 

calf's feet 80 

cran berry 69 

cherry 45 

fruit 97 

grape 90 

green grape 91 

lemon 97 

macedoine 9i 

orange 97 

peach 127 

pineapple 97 

pistachio 67 

plum 135 

quince 146 

raspberry 97 

rhubarb 14S 

ribbon 97 

Russian 97 

strawberry 97 

West Indian 97 

nle Li nd pancakes 8 

inny cake 66 

" apple 3 

Jollefille sauce 160 

Journeaux (garnish) 87 

Jugged hare 95 

JulUnne 97 

Juniper 97 

Kale. 



salad 152 

Ketchup, cucumber 72 

Khulash or goulash 97 

Kidney bea^is 9 

' incream 9 

English style 9 

French style 9 

German style 9 

panaches 9 

Kidneys 97 

fat (pigs) 181 

pigs LSI 

Klrsch or klrsohenwasser 6- 

Kirschwasser 98 

Kingflsh 97 

boiled, sauce Normade 97 

broiled, lemon butter 97 

with fl e herbs 97 

fried til lets of, breadcrumbed. . 98 

saute, sauce Colbert 98 

Knockpolse or hard smoked DacUh 

sausage 137 

i) rabl 98 

Coumlss P8 

Kromeskies 71 & 9 

of sweetbreads 107 

K'immel 65 & v8 

_.ake trout fried, tomato sauce 168 

Lamb, blanqnetteof 98 

boiled 98 

braised 96 



Lamb, curried 9f 

cutlets of 99 

emlnoeof 99 

eplgramme of '.' 

fricassee of 98 

hashed, with poached egg '..'. 

fries 

" broohetteof 23 

kidneys, brooheue of 21 

noisettes of, alaMalntenon....lU 
ragout of 



santeof 98 

scallops of , with rice 99 

stewed 98 

" garnished 

sweetbreads in cases 99 

Larding pork 181 

Larks, bouchee of 21 

Lasagnes 9 

Leek 99 

soap, Scotch style 99 

Leeks, boiled 99 

Lemons 100 

cream 1 OC 

dnmpllngs 100 

extract of 

Jelly 97 

marmalade 100 

mincemeat 100 

ance 100 

sonp 100 

trifle 100 

Lentils 100 

cream of 100 

sonp 100 

Lettuce 100 

baked stuffed 101 

and cucumber salad 101 

and onion salad 100 

salad 100 & 162 

and tomato salad ....100 

Lererpolse or liver sausage 137 

Lererpostej, llverwnrst or Danish 

liver sausage 138 

Lima beans boiled 

cream of 9 

puree. 9 

" of 146 

salad 9&152 

saute 8 

LImejulcer 101 

Limes iOl 

Limburger cheese 43 

Liver 101 

cheese, Italian style 31 

curried, with forcemeat 10 

forcemeat balls 32 

fried, with onions 101 

klosse 32 

pigs 131 

pudding 101 

ragout of 101 

and salt pork 101 

saute of 101 

sausage 137 & 140 

Llvernalse sauce 160 

LI vournaise sauce 160 

L '.verwurst sausage 138 

Lobster in aspic cream 101 

baked, in shell 102 

bisqueof 17 & 103 

Horde la i se 102 

bouchee of. 20 & 102 

brochetteof 22 & 102 

broiled live 102 

butter 26 

cheese 101 

croquettes 102 

curried 102 

cutlets 102 

devilled 101 

escalloped 102 

fricassee of 102 

an gratin 101 

mayonnaise of 101 

mazarlns of 101 

in 1 ro ton of 101 

mulllgatawney 103 

Ne wburg 102 

omelet 102 

and oyster pie 102 

patties 102 

rissoles of 10S 

salad 101&152 

salpioon of 102 

sandwich 102 



scalloped 101 

oup 



L-M 



Lobster sonp, Creole style 

Mariner's style 103 

stewed 10S 

stuffed 

toast 102 

with tomatoes 102 

usts 108 

Lungs, pigs 181 

Lyons sausage 140 

Lyonnalse sauce 16U 

Macaroni 108 

baked, and sheese 103 

buttered 



181 



creamed. 



piaii 



04 

with eggs 104 

Creole style 108 

croquettes 1-4 

with fish flakes 104 

Genoise style 104 

an gratln KB 

with ham 104 

Italian style 113 

with lamb kidneys 1(M 

with oyster butter 104 

as the Monks like it 108 

and oysters, Milan style 103 

pudding 104 

with sausages uu 



with spinach puree 104 

tlmbales of 1U4 

" " and forcemeat 104 

and tomatoes 



Macedoine 105 

(garnish) 87 

Jelly 97 

salad 162 

Mackerel 106 

baked fillets of 106 

stuffed fillets of 105 

boiled 105 

" salt 105 

broiled salt ,.. ..105 

" stuffed 105 

buttered 105 

fillets of. sautes 106 

fried, butter sauce 105 

soused 105 

Madeira 106 

mce 160 



Madelines 106 

Madras canapes 36 

Maintenon sauce 160 

Maitre d'hotel butter 26 

sauce 105&160 

Mallard 106 

broiled, maitre d'hotel 106 

" fillets of. game sauce 106 

fried, orange sauce 106 

salmis of 106 



provencale style 106 

roast, American style 105 

Mango 106 

Maraschino 65 & 106 

rinade 106 

M arln iere (garnish ) 87 

Margarine 26 

arjoram 106 

armalade 1C6 & 134 

apple 3 

apricot 4 

cherry 46 



Marrong 



lemon _ 

orange 119 

peach 127 

quince 146 



Marrow 

bouohee with 

Marzipan 1P6 

Mastic 106 

Matelote (garnish) 87 & 106 

sauce 160 

Mayonnaise : 106 



aspic 107 

of celery 41 

chicken 66 & 151 

of lobster 101 

of salmon 166 

sane* 161 

Mazarlns 107 

of lobster 101 

Meat olives (pauplettes) 127 

Medallions 107 

Melons 107 

103 Melon preserve 107 



Meringue 10T 

cherry 46 

Ignons de boeuf aux truffle* 16 

Mllanatse (garnish; 67 & 107 

omelet 117 

sauce 161 

Milt 107 

Mincemeat 107 

lemon 100 

Mint 107 

sauce 161 

Mook turtle soup, elear 29 

" thick 99 

Molasses 108 

Montpelier butter'.!.] '.'.... .V.'.'.'. ....'.. 28 

Mosaic sausage 139 

Muffins, corn f9 



Mullet. . 

Mulligatawny, lobster 108 

Muscallonge 109 

Mushrooms 108 

baked, on toast 108 

bouchee with 21 

broiled 108 

catsup. 



creamed fresh ................... 1C8 

tnoroustades .................... 108 

fricassee of ................ 108 A 109 

garnish ......................... 108 

omelet .......................... 109 

pureeof ................. 108 & 148 

rissoles .......................... 109 

sauce .......................... 108 



(brown and white) ........ 191 

sauteof ........................ 108 

stewed ......................... 108 

stuffed, Creole style ............. 108 

' Itallansance ............ 108 

" on toast ................. 1C9 

Mussels ............................... 1C9 

bread ed.vllleroi sauce .......... 109 

brochetteof .............. 224109 

creamed ......................... 1 09 

fisherman style ................. 109 

fricassee of ..................... 109 

fried ............................. H9 

Italian style ..................... 109 

pan roast of ..................... 109 

sauce ........................... It 9 

sautes of fine herbs ............. li 9 

scalloped ........................ 109 

steamed, lemon butter sauce. . 1C9 
stewed .......................... li 9 

Mustard .............................. 113 

and cress ........................ 110 

Mutton ................................ 110 

boiled leg of ..................... 110 

" withturulps .............. Ill 

Mutton, braised breast of, Italian so ill 
larded leg of ......... 110 

leg of ............... 110 

" " with beans ...110 
" wlthveget'blslll 
boned loin of ....... 1:3 

stuffed leg of ........ 110 

Mutton, breast of. with turnips ...... Ill 

broohette of ..................... 23 

broiled breasts of ............. Ill 

casseroles of .................... 112 

Mutton chop, breaded, beans puree. 112 
" mushroom pureel 12 
" perlgneux sauce!13 
braised, garnished... .113 

broiled, garnished.. ..114 

with buttered corn.... 118 

fried Italia* sauce... 112 
with glazed siew carotsl 12 
with peas puree ....... 112 

with potato border. ... 112 

provence style ........ 112 

saute, sauce Sonblse.. 112 
Southern style ........ 112 

with truffles ........... 112 

Mutton, coated cutlets of ............. Ill 

croustades of, with poached eggl!3 
curry of, with rice. ............. 1 ' 1 

Mutton cutlets, baked, with apples.. 112 
f ried.ref orm e ga rnlsh 1 1 3 
saute, with fine herbs 113 
Mutton, fried breast of ............... Ill 

glased breast of ................. Ill 

harlcotof ...................... Ill 

hashed, with peppers ..... 112 & 113 

noisettes of, an Madere ......... 114 

pie, English style .............. ."? 

ragout of. with tomatoes ...... ill 

rissoles of. sauce Hollandalse. .112 
roast leg of ...................... HO 

rolled shoulder of, oyster sanoelll 



X82 



M-N-0 



0-P 



Pave 
Mutton, rolled stuffed breast of Ill 
tew with vegetables 113 
staffed breast of, sauce Robert 111 
Nantaise sauce . . 161 


Onions boiled 118 




braised 118 








in cream sauce 118 
fried 118 


sauce-coated, fried 122 
scalloped 121 


Napolitaine (garnleh) 87 


glazed . 118 




Nasturtium 114 


pickled 118 














stuffed and b'rol led 123 




" brown 119 




" with flsh quenelles 119 
Onion salad 118 & 152 


suprems of 123 


Negus . . 66 




Onion sauce .118 
" whlteand brown 161 
Onion soup with cheese canapes 118 
" with crusts 118 






Newburg 69 


Nenfchatt.1 114 
Niceoise sance 161 






Oyster plant, boiled 124 








vinegar 118 


" fritters 124 






de veau 114 


Oranges, bouchee of 2] 


" sauce poulette 124 
saute .... 124 


Noodles 114 


canape of 119 
fritters 83 & 119 






Noyeau . 65 & 114 


ices 96 


apple 3 


Nutmeg- 114 


jam 118 


Berlin 73 




jellied 119 


French 8 




jelly. ... 97 


Jenny Lind 8 


Oenf s a la oocotte 69 

Okra 116 


marmalade 119 
pie 119 


Swiss 8 




salad 115&153 


baked, pudding 119 


Paplllote sauce 162 


Olives.^. . 116 


sauce . 119 & 161 






trifle 119 


Parsley . 124 


Ua podrida 116 






broiled 120 




Algerienne 117 


bouchee of 21 


baked 125 


brochette of 120 


cream sance 125 




In cases 120 


apricot 4 


Incroustade 120 


fritters 83 & 125 


fried 120 
roast IzO 


mashed 125 




with asparagus points 80 & 116 
with bacon 79 & 115 


truffled 120 


Partridge *lth bacon, parsley sauce. U (5 
bisque of 17 


Ox tails, braised, with kidney beans. 16 
" clear 13 
" curried, with spaghetti 16 




boiled 125 


with calf's brains 117 
with calf's head 29 & 117 




braised, with cabbage 126 
breadcrumbed and broiled 126 
breast of, glazed vegetables 126 
" " larded and fried 125 
" sauce colbert 125 
broiled 125 
croquettes, sauce terlgueux . . . 126 


calf's kidney 31 


" haricot of 16 & 120 




wlthoepes 42 & 79 & 115 
cheese 44 
with cheese 9 & 115 


" soup 12( 


" " clear 120 


' thick 13 


of chicken livers 64 & 79 & 115 
with chicken puree 117 
Chlpolata 117 


Ox tongue, boiled 120 


" braised fresh 121 


' plokllngof 132 
" smoked, German style. . .121 
Ox palates, bouchee with 21 




with chipped beef 79 & 115 
crab 68 
Creole 80 & 117 


epigrammeof, with mnsbrooa125 
fillets of , with crayfish 1S6 


with custard cream 117 
with BKK plant 80&116 
financiers 117 


Oysters, baked, with cheese 122 
Italian style 123 
withiausbrooms.. ..122 
" with potatoes 122 


bashed, with egg !."..126 
larded and braised 125 


with fine herbs 79&116 


rissoles, sance Richelieu 126 


with French or small green 
peas 80 & 116 
frog, Southern style 84 
with bam 79 & 116 








salmi of . 1?5 


boucheeof 20 


salpicon Of 128 
saute .. 126 


Indian 117 


broohetteof 21&122 
broiled 121 


" with rlwoto. 126 


with jelly 117 




with lamb kidneys . 79 it, 116 


" breadcrnmbed . . . 121 






" shell 121 




with marmalade 117 








In casserole 123 




Mllanalse 117 


with celery 123 




with minced chicken 80 A 116 
mushroom 109 


cocktail 60 


brain. 25 


creamed on toast 123 


of calf's kidneys . . 31 






of carp roes 88 
celery.. 41 


with olives 80 & 1 16 


croquettes 123 


with onions 116 




chicken, supreme sauce 61 
cod flsh tongue 62 
eeg ...... 78 


oyster 128 


curried 123 


with oysters . . 80 & 116 


outlets minced 124 


with parsley 80 A 1 16 


devilled 121 


lobster 1' 2 


dry stew. 122 




with rum 117 






savory, of calf's brains 26 


fancy fo 122 


partridge 126 


fricassee of 122 




shrimp 117 
with shrimps, Mexican sty 79 & 116 


fried 122 


of scrambled calf's sweetbr'ds . 83 
of sweetbreads 167 
turkey . 171 






souffle 117 


Indian stew 121 




Spanish 80 A 11'' 


loaf 122 


'auplettes of cabbage 27 


with spinach . 80 A 116 


omelet 123 


with spring vegetables.... MIX in; 
with sweetbreads 7!tJtll 


patties 123 


Peach . 127 


panned 121 
Philadelphia ttew 121 


ambrosia 127 


with tomatoes 60 & 1 16 
with tomatosd rice 80 & 116 
with truffles. .. .. 117 




pie 123 














with veal kidneys 794 Ii5 
Onions, baked, stuffed 118 


rissoles 124 


croutons with glazed fruits 128 
dumplings.... 128 


roast shell. ... ....121 



jelly 127 

marmalade 1V7 

pie 128 

shortcake 18 

tartlettes 128 

trifle 128 

Peaches, bonchee of 2; 

bottled 128 

brandy 127 

compote of 127 

with cream 127 

Iced 128 

with rice 127 

with rice croquettes 127 

spiced 127 

Peanut 128 

Pear 128 

alligator 1 

Peas 129 

pureeof 129&145 

pudding 129 

Pepper 129 

butter 26 

Peppermint 129 

Peppdr pot 129 

Perch 129 

Perlgueux (garnish) 87 

(sauce) 129&161 

Persimmon 129 

Pheasant 130 

braised.. 

broiled 130 

roast 130 

Philadelphia capon 37 

clam chowder 68 

scrapple 164 

stew (oyster) 121 

Ple.apple.... 8 

" custard 3 

beefsteak and kidney 14 

" mushroom. 14 

" " oyster 14 

blackberry 18 

blackbird.. 

cherry 46 

" deep 45 

chicken 4 

" small, French style 4 

cod and oyster 123 

French style 61 

cranberry 69 

glblet 54*89 

" and potato 54 

lobster and oyster 102 

mutton, English style 113 

orange 118 

oyster 123 

peach 128 

a 133 



pumpkin '45 

rabtlt 147 

rhubarb 148 

steak and ojster 123 

veal and oyster 172 

venison 178 

Picallili 130 

Pickle 130 

Pickles 130 

Pickle rumps 130 

Pickled beets 16 

cabbage 27 

cauliflower 40 

cucumbers 72 

onions 118 

Pickling beef and hams 130 

for bams or Calif, shoulders.. . .132 

of oxtongues 

of relied hams 132 

Pieddecocbon 

Pigeon* 133 

braised, with flageolets 

" garnished 184 

breastsof 134 

compote of 133 

croustade 

curried 

" with rice 133 

fricassee of 134 

larded, garnished 

pie 133 

potted 133 

roast. ~_ 

" with tomatoes) 134 

salm Is of 138 

saute of 134 

tewed, with mushrooms U3 

tuffed, with potatoes 133 

" with vegetables 183 



Pi i 



Die fritters 83 

jelly 97 



Pintail.. 

Piquante (sauce) 134 & 162 

Pistachio 13* 

jelly 97 

Pig products 130 

Pigs bladders 131 

blood 531 

DOPCB 181 

brain 131 

caul 131 

ears 181 

feet 131 

gall 13i 

gut fat 131 

ham 131 

head stuffed 131 

heart 131 

kidneys 181 

brochetteof 181 

kidney fat 131 

liver 131 

Inngs 131 

shoulders 131 

kin 131 

snout 131 

spleen 131 

stomach 131 

tall 131 

tongue... 131 

Plain stew (oyster) 121 

Planked shad 164 

Plovers, bisque of 17 

breast of. en salmi 134 

" " with sweetbreads.... 134 

broiled, on toast 134 

roast 184 



Plum butter. 



Plums 



Jelly 

marmalade 

pudding 



.134 

185 

135 

.. ..134 

135 

134 



boncheesof 21 

Poivrade sance 162 

Polenta 66 

Polish sausage 14 

Polonaise sauce 162 

Pompano 185 

Pop corn 67 

Porgle 135 

Porte and be* ns, baked 

Pork, boned boiled salt leg of 

Pork chops, broiled 136 

" fried .136 

" sautees Id6 

Pork, cold rolled belly of, stuffed olivel36 

croquettes, anchovy sauce 136 

emlnce of . with fried apples. .. .136 

fried salt with apple* 136 

" kidneys ISP 

larding 136 

minced, with fried apples 136 

roast loin of 136 

" lego* 186 

salt, with parsnips 136 

sausages 136&141 

sausage seasoning 141 

stuffed leg of 136 

Pork tenderloin, braised ~ 

broiled 136 

corned 135 

curried 13f 

stuffed 135 

with sweet potatoes 135 

Portuguese sance 162 

Potage a la comtesse 

Potato casseroles 143 

croquettes 143 

" stuffed 143 

fritters 143 

patties 143 

puffs 143 

quenelles 143 

ragout 143 

salad 15S| 

soup 144 

Potatoes 142 

Anglaise 144 

baked in their skins 142 

barlgonle 144 

Bernhardt 14* 

Msrnomip 144 

when boiling 142 

brabanconne 144 

brabant 144 

bretonne 144 

broiled 14? 

in cases 143 



Potatoes, chateau 144 

colbert 144 

oonde 144 

cottage fried. 142 

Creole 143 

curried 148 

duchesse 143 

to extract frost from 142 

French fried '42 

Genevolse 144 

German fried 142 

glazed 143 

home fried 142 

gastronome 144 

hashed brown 142 

" Incream 142 

Hollandaise 143 

Indienne 142 

julienne 142 

Lyonnalse 142 

Marie 143 



maitre d'hotel 143 

Monaco 144 

Navarraise 148 

Orstnl 143 

Farisienne 142 

ruree of 145 

RiU 14 

ante 142 

" home fried, cottage fried, 

Germanfrled 142 

scalloped 142 

In steaming 143 

stewed with bacon... 142 

" Incream 142 

" Parisienne 143 

stuffed 143 

Victoria 143 

Tlilageoiie 1 43 

Pot pie, beef 14 

Chicken 46 

giblet 64 

oyster 123 



Pot roast. ... .......................... 10 

Potted cheese ......................... 44 

chicken for sandwiches ......... F3 

ham, canapes of ................. 35 



tongue, canapes of ............. 35 

Ponlette .............................. 144 

sauce ...................... 144 &1R2 

lines ................ .............. 67 

Prairie chicken ....................... 144 



broiled 144 

roasted 144 

salmisof 144 

Prawns, bisque of 17 



lelor 



Preserved pumpkin rind 145 

Prickly pear 128 

Provencal* (garnish) 88 

sauce 146 & 162 

ld 'ba*ke a d P f aVinal '..'."'. .\'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.\ 81 

" orange 119 

black 19 

blackberry is 

boiled farina 61 

cheese 44 

cherry 46 

chocolate 67 

date 73 

farina, baked, boiled 81 

grated corn FT 

Indian 66 

liver 101 

macaroni 104 

peas 1 

plum 1?5 

Puffs 145 

appl* 3 

Pumpkin 146 

baked 146 

pic 145 



rind, preserved 145 

Punch 66 

Roman .149 

Puree 146 

of artichoke* 146 

asparagas 6 

of asparagus 1*5 

beans with onions 9 

of beans a la eoublse 9 

of Bermuda onions 118 

brown onion 119 

of carrots 146 

of celery 1*> 



i8 4 



P-Q-R 



R-S 



S 



Puree of celery and onions 



of chestnuts 146 

of chicken 66 

" " with tomatoed quenelles So 

crecy 39&71 

of cucumbers 71 

haricot beans 9 



Rolypoly. 



Page! 

...149, 



Of mushrooms 108 & 146 

onion 

" with flab qt 

of onions 

of peas 

pumpkin 

of seakale. 



146 



apple 

cherry 46 



Romaine salad. 



Koman punch. 

Roquefort cheese 1491 Salmon trout, baked. . 

Hi uennaise (garnish) 88' " w 



Royal custards. 



Roynle (garnish) 

Russian jelly 97 



Rye. 



Had. 
sauce . 



153 

.164 

160 

of spinach 145 Sage sauce 163 

of tomatoes H5 Salad, alligator pear 160 

.146 
....146 



roast ............................ 146 

Queen fritters ........................ 83 

Quince honey .......................... 146 

Jelly ............................. 140 

in ar ni alade ...................... 146 

Babbit, blanquette of ................. 147 

boudin of ....................... 21 

braised, with tomato sauce ____ 146 

brochetteof .................... 22 

broiled .......................... 147 

" saddle of ................ 146 

carried with rice .............. 1481 

cutieta, fried .................. 147! 

" tomato sauce ........... 147 

devilled ......................... 147 

enlgranime of .................. ]47 

fillets garnished, sc. perigueux.147 
fricassee of ..................... 146 

minced, on toast ................ 147 

pie ........... .................. H7 

potted ...................... . ..146 

ragout of ....................... 147 

saute of .......................... 147 

salpicon of ...................... 147 

smothered, with onions ......... 147 

stewed, German style .......... 146 

" with vegetables ........ 147 

Radish salad ......................... )!3 

Raifort sauce .......................... 1<3 

Rameqnins, cheese .................. 43 



chovy 2 & 150 Saratoga chips 

artichoke 16U ~ 



and onion.. 
" and tomato 
asparagus 



and cauliflower 6 



banana .......................... 7 

bean ......................... ....150 

beet and egg ................ 17 &l. U 

" and potato ............ 17 & 150 

cabbage ..................... 27 & 150 

carrot, with asparagus tips. .. 
cauliflower ................. 40 & 150 



Yorkshire ...................... 43 

Raspberries .......................... 148 

Raspberry Jelly ........................ 97 

vinegar ............... ......... 14H 

Ratafia ................................. 65 

Ravigote butter ....................... 26 

sauce ....................... U8&162 

Ravloles ............................... 148 

Reform sauce ........................ 163 

Regency (garnish) .................... H! 

sauce ....................... ..... 163 

Red cabbage salad .................... 27 

stewed, with sausages.. 27 
Red grouper, baked, Spanish sauce.. 92 
Red haricot beans .................... 

Red pepper ...................... ..... 129 

Kedsn ap per , baked ......... ......... 148 

boiled ............................ 148 

broiled ....... . ................. 148 

saute ............................ 148 

stuffed ......... .............. ..148 

Reedbirds, bonchee of ............... 21 

brochette of ..................... 23 

Relne Claude .......................... 91 

Kemouiade sauce ..................... 163 

Rhubarb compote ..................... 148 

wtthcubtard ....... . ............ 148 

fritters ........................... U9 

Jam ............................. 148 

Jelly ............................ 148 

meringue ...................... 149 

pie ............................... 148 

Ribbon Jelly. .......... ................ 97 

Rice. .................................. 149 

croquettes ....................... 149 

croustadesof ..... 

fritters.... 



griddle cakes ... 



Rlceblrds, bouchee of 21 

Richelieu (garnish) 88 Sally Lnnn 

sauoe lf.3 Salmi Salmis. 

Rissoles 149 



of sweetbreads 1W 

Rissolettes ... 32 & 149 

Robert sauoe 163 

Roe. 149 

sauce 163 

BOIl, cranberry 68 



chicory 

codfish 

combination 

corn 

crab 

cre*s 



mayonnaise of 166 

alad 168 

smoked 166 

" cans 
steaks or cut 

168 

ith tomatoes. . 168 

broiled 1 8 

' aaute 168 

Salpicon, bonchee with 21 

Salsify 155 

salad 153 

Baited almonds 1 

Sandwich, anchovy 2 

cheese 4* 

lobster 102 

oyster 124 

potted beef for 15 

;oga chips 143 

rdines, bouchee of 21 



Sardine canapes 36 

liver sausage 139&140 

salad 153 

Sarsaparilla, extract of 



nd salmon.... 6 Saster sausage 142 



15 
ItOi 
154i 
671 

68 & 151 
151 



cucumber ................... 72 & 1.' 1 

" and or ion ............ 73 

dandelion ....................... 151 

eel ............ . ............. 77&151 

egg ............................... 161 

egg plant ....................... 151 

endive ......................... 161 

French .......................... 161 

game ........................... 162 

gardeners. ....................... 151 

German ......................... 151 

" Potato ................. 162 

herring .......................... 112 

Italian ........................... 152 

kale .............................. 152' 

lettuce ..................... 100 & 152 



and cucum her 10 1 1 chasseu r . 



ace, ad m iral 156 

A 1 bert 155 

allemu nde 156 

almond If 5 

anchovy 2 & 155 

andaluslan ir.5 

aprlcct 44155 

aurora 156 

avigno n 1 56 

Bavarian 155 

Bearnaise lf>6 

bechamel 70*155 

Bey rout 166 

biprarade 166 

Bohemian 166 

Bordelaise, brown and white... 1R6 

bourgeoise 156 

bourglgnotte. . . 156 

brandy 23 

Bressoise 166 

Bretonne, hot and cold 156 

caper 156 

' forflf-h 1.S6 

cardinal 156 

carrot 15 

cauliflower 40 & 156 

celery, white and Drown 156 

chadeau 157 

chambord 157 

champagne 157 

chautauKcn 167 



.166 



" andonicn IWJi 

" andtomato 100 

lima bean 9 & 152 

lobster 101 & ]52 

macedoine... 152 

okra 1 1 :> & 153 

onion lis &J52 

oyster 152 

oyster plant 15* 

partridge 12fi&153 

jotato 1-3 

red cabbage 27 

radish...?! 153 

Romaine J53 

Russian 153 

salsify 153 

salmon }*f 

sardine }<> 

Pcotch }53 

shrimp 153 

Southern '68 

Spanish 153 

Swedish 153 

sweetbread 35 & } 

tartare ^ 

tomato J3 

turkey J'l 

veal 154 

watercress 

Salamander J64 

.149 Salami ....141 

de Verona 141 



8 Salisbury steak with grilled potatoes 13 



with mushrooms 13 

154 
154 
Salmon, baked 154 



boiled 154 

bouchee of 21 

broiled 154 

bisque of 17 

(cold, boiled) 164, 

.154) 



Chateaubriand 157 

chaudfroid If 7 

cherry 1 57 

chevreutl 157 

chili 157 

C 1 aremon t 167 

claret 157 

Colbert 1 57 

court- bouillon 157 

crab 69 

cranberry 158 

crapaudlne 157 

cream 70 

Creole 167 

crevette 157 

cucumber 157 

Curacoa 168 

curry 167 

custard 168 

Cznrina 1*7 

diable 158 

d iplomate 158 

dovee 159 

duchesse 158 

Dutch IS 

d'uxelles 168 

egg 158 

espapnole 163 

fennel 81 & 158 

flnanciere 158 

fine herbs 81 & 158 

flen-lsh 168 

f umet 1 69 

Genevolse 169 

Genolse 189 

German 159 

giblet 64&89&159 

Godard 169 

gol en 169 

gooseberry 90&159 

ham... 169 

Hanover 159 

bard 169 





159 


Sausa 1 ver 


Pace 


Page 
Soup, chicken, with peas puree 66 
" Portuguese stvle 66 
' with rice and leeks. ... 66 
" Southein style 66 
" Turkish style 66 
" with vegetables 65 
Soup, clear mock turtle 29 




. 159 




138 




159 




.... 138 




15! 


liver 


Indienne 


'::::. 159 


Lyons (German recipe) . . . 


... .141 
139 


[ la'jan. white and brown 


16( 


160 


oberland liver 
Poiibb 


141 
141 




160 


lemon 


101 


pork 


13B&141 


dam 69 


Jl vernal*!? 




sardine and liver 
saster 


139 & 140 
142 


Cuck-a leekie 65 




.. .160 




1 vonnalse 






141 






160 










. 160 


Thunnglan red 


141 

142 


crabgumbo 69 


maitre d'hotel 


160 
Ml 








niavnni aisfi 


161 




142 






161 




137 
141) 












mushroom 


. ..108 


Weatphalian 


142 


Soup, green pea 129 


' white and brown.. ..16 


Sarory canapes 


36 


" turtle 171 
haricot, bean, family style 9 
leek, Scotch style 99 
lemon loo 
lentil 100 


Nantalse 


161 
161 


broobette of 


23 
43 
163 


Nlceolse 
nonpareil 


161 
16! 
. ...161 


Scotch beef soup 
canapes 


3b 


lobster ..VJ8 
" Creole style 103 




118 




1R4 






161 


Seakale 164 


mock turtle, thick 29 
onion, with cheese canapes.... 118 
" withcrubts 118 
ox tall 120 


orange 


119 & Uil 
.123 & 161 
162 


pnreeof 

Reasoning, porksautage 


146 
141 
164 




Darslev 


101 


Shad 


164 




16] 


baked 


.. . 164 






161 


" stuffed 


165 


potato 144 
Scotch beef 13 




.. 162 


boiled 


16ft 




162 


fried 


. ... 165 
' 164 


split pea 129 




162 








. .. Itf2 




166 




poulette 


144 & 162 
162 


Shaddock 
Shallot 


91 & 165 
165 


turtle, clear 171 


Raif ort 


. 163 




163 


Spanish fries ... 69 


ravigote 


148 & 162 










. ...13 




45 




remoulade 


163 

163 


Shortbread... 


....165 


salad 153 




163 




18 


Spinach 166 




163 








roval 


163 


Shortrlbs, beef 
Shoulders (pigs) 
Shrimp 


10 
....131 
166 


Spleen, pigs 131 
Split pea soup 129 
Spring chicken In batter, fried onions 52 
devilled green peas., f 2 
" fried, artich'k bot'n.s 62 
" fried, hominy fritters 52 
Spring duck, roast, applesauce 76 
Spring lamb, brochetteof 22 
Spring turkey, various ways 169 
S-quabs. 165 




H3 




163 




163 




17 




. .. 163 




26 


shallot 


163 




::::. 35 




163 


omelet 
salad. 


117 

53 




.... 163 




163 


sauce 
Shrub 


:::::i63 

65 


Ste Menehould 


163 


Sultana 


163 


Sicilian sauce 


163 


sauce crapaudlne 134 


supreme 


168 
164 


Skin (pigs) 


131 
165 


Squash 165 
Squirrel 165 




164 




22 


Stanley (garnish) 89 


tortu 


164 


Smoked sausage or knackwurst 


141 
165 


Steak and oyster pie 123 
Ste Menehould bauce 163 
Sterlet 166 




164 




164 




21 




164 




131 






. . 164 


Sno* balls iced 


96 




Verjuice... 


16* 
164 


Soft shell crabs, boiled 
" " broiled 


69 
69 
69 


Strawberries 168 
Strawberry jelly VI 




164 


Yorkshire 


164 


" fried 


69 


Sturgeon 166 


Pance coated oysters, fried... . 


122 
27 


" " steamed 
Soles 


69 
165 


Succotash 166 


Sausage Bavarian 
beef 


137 
16 & 138 


Sole, bouchee of 


:::.: 

165 


Supreme of chicken 47 


blood 


:38 


fiance 


163 


of oysters 123 


" French 


138 

138 


Sonblse (garnish) 


88 
163 


sauce ....163 
Swedish salad If 8 


Bologna 
" -Italian 


138 

139 


Souffle 


165 
.... 44 
10 


Swiss canapes 36 




16 


Sour not roast 




Cambridge 


139 
139 




95 




Southern alu 1 


163 


braised a la Montglas 83 
" sauce Bearnalse 34 
11 with vegeta hies If6 


cervelata poise 
chicken, ham and tongue, 
sauce Hollandais 
Coblentz 


137 
140 




.166 


apple 


3 






g 


brochette of 22 & 167 




68 




M 


broiled . .167 


Danish beef and pork.... 
liver 
smoked 


137 
138 
137 


button onion, with peas 119 
calf's head, Portuguese style. .. 29 
with quenelles. ... 29 


with brown butter 187 
calf's, different styles 83 


Frankfort 


140 
140 
137 


chantllly 


42 
46 


en coqullle 3 


goose liver, truffled 
bard smoked Danish 




65 




" glblet 


54 


f ififl 


knockpolse .... 


....137 


' with noodles .... 


... 66 


croustadesof 165 



186 



S-T 



T-V 



V-W-Y 



Page 
Sweetbreads, curry of 166 
outlets a la Nlvernaise 33 
eplgramme of Iht 
*' " sauce bechamel. 34 
frieanrteau of, with chicory 33 
Iricasbew of . li> 
and mushrooms .... 34 


Page 
Tongue, smoked, with sauerkraut... 15 


Page 
Veal, forcemeat or godlveau 8} 


Tortu ( garnish ) 8V 


galantine of 
grenadins of, with spinach 172 


Toulouse (garnish) 89 


roast loin or neck of 172 


Trl anon sauce 164 






lemon 100 




" stuffed 166 






with kidneys 1(6 
lamb, In cases . ... 99 
larded, Toulouse garnish 166 
" Toulouse ruguut 34 
medallions of 166 


orange 119 
peach 128 


scallops of, Italian sauce 173 


Tripe, Creole style 188 
various ways 168 
Trout 168 
baked stuffed 168 


timbales of 172 


Vegetables, fry in batter 8 
Veloute sauce 164 
Venison 173 


patties of . 167 




boiled, shrimp sauce 168 


civet of 173 


salad 35 & 153 




pie 178 


sal pi con of 167 
saute a la flnanclere 33 
scalloped 166 


filleted, fried, with bacon 16 
Trout steaks, baked 169 
" sauce trlanon 168 
Truffles 169 


Venitienne sauce 164 
Verjuice sauce 164 


Vermicelli 173 
Vermouth 65 & 173 


scallops of with potato croquets 34 
"with Toulouse ragout 34 
scrambled, with eggs 162 
soup 35 & 167 






Tunny, ''Thon Marine" 169 
Turnips 171 


Verte pro sauce 164 
Vinaigrette sauce 164 


and truffles in shell 34 
vol-an- rent of, and mushrooms 33 
Tall, tigs 131 






Turkey 169 




blanqnetta of 170 


Vol-au-veut 167 & 173 


Tapioca itvj 








Tartare salad 163 


boned 170 


of chicken with quenelles.... 51 
of sweetbreads and mushrooms 33 


sauce 164 


braised . 170 


Tartarlo aold 167 








Waffles .!' " 173 


caviar 40 




corn 66 






Walnut 173 


blackberry 18 






cranberry 70 
peach 128 
Tart, apple 3 


galan tine of 84 & 17li 
bashed, with egg 170 


salad 154 
Water ices, fancy (several kinds) . . . . 9 
" cherry 43 




livers, brocbette of 22 
pat'.les and vol-au- vents 171 
roast spring, oyster sauce !". 
" stuffed 169 


Teal 167 


Wax beans 9 
Wienerpolse or Bavarian sauiage. . .137 
Welnerwurst sausage 140 


Tenderloin sausage 141 
Terrapin. 167 


baked 167 


bisque of 17 




West Indian jelly 97 


Maryland style 167 


stewed spring. Southern style. . 1' 9 
wings, fricassee of 17 1 
Vanilla 171 


Tlmbales cabbage 27 
Thon Marine 169 




Whipped cream 70 






Whlteflsh 173 


Tomatoes 1 68 
puree of 145 


Veal, blanquetteof 172 
boudln of 21 & 172 




Woodcock 173 


alad... .153 




sauce 14 


chops, broiled 173 


Yarmouth bloaters, baked, In sauce. . 19 
" sautes 19 
Yorkshire buck, old fashioned 43 
pudding 8 
rarebit 43 


sausages 142 




cronstadeof 172 
curry of 173 
cutlets, garnished 171 


Tomatoed Hamburger .... 94 
Tongue, braised fresh, sauce Italian. 121 
boiled smoked sauce piquante 121 


Pigs 131 


emlnceof 172 


sauce 164 



Popular Handbooks 

for Hotel, Restaurant, Transportation 
Catering, Institution and Club Use 



The Epicurean (Ranhofer) .................... $7.00 

The king of cook books is "The Epicurean," by 
Charles Ranhofer, of Delmonico's. This book is 
1,200 pages and weighs about ten pounds. It is 
the most extensive, the most complete, the most 
readable, the most attractive and the best all- 
around cook book that has ever been published. 
The first chapter is devoted to table service, with 
instruction in menu-making and the care and 
service of wines, the decoration of the table, the 
fixing of the sideboard, complete dining room 
instructions for the service of course dinners. 
French and Russian service is explained. There 
are lists of china, glass and silver, etc. ; a table 
of supplies in which the French and English 
names are given, and a market list. Then follows 
144 pages of menus for breakfasts, luncheons, 
dinners, buffet or standing suppers, collations, 
hunting parties, garden parties, dancing parties, 
etc. All dishes in these menus are numbered to 
conform with recipes for them in the body of the 
book. There is a chapter on elementary methods, 
in which even the drudgery work in the kitchen is 
explained, and all the work done by apprentices 
in the early stages of hotel kitchen work. The 
chapter on kitchen utensils is very full, every 
utensil illustrated. Then come the recipes: 200 
soups, 251 sauces, 133 garnishes, 191 sids dishes, 
101 shell fish, 218 fish, 165 beef, 165 veal, 75 
mutton, 109 lamb, 48 pork, 224 poultry, 163 
game, 198 miscellaneous entrees, 67 salads, 172 
vegetables, 100 eggs, 37 farinaceous foods, 233 
sweet entrees, 170 cakes, 17 breads, 189 ices and 
iced drinks, 90 confectionery, and several illustra- 
tions of centerpieces. There is an exhaustive 
chapter on wines, several recipes for mixed 
drinks, and 64 pages devoted to a collection of 
Delmonico menus. The index occupies 44 double- 
column pages. There are more than 800 illustra- 
tions. A most excellent feature of The Epicurean 
is that every recipe in it appears under a good 
honest English name, alongside of which is the 
translation of it into French. It is beautifully 
bound in Keratol Levant grain, embossed in gold. 

The Palmer House Cook Book (Amiet) ......... $3.00 

Here is the book you have been waiting for . . . the 
new Palmer House Cook Book . . . newly revised, 
new recipes . . . illustrated with 20 beautiful natural 
color and 20 black and white illustrations. The 
new Palmer House Cook Book contains all the 
menus and recipes that made the first edition a 
best seller, plus many new recipes and color il- 
lustrations. Recipes for world-famous dishes just 
as they are prepared by Chef Amiet in Chicago's 
Palmer House, and in other leading hotels, clubs, 
restaurants and in private homes. Yet, the in- 
structions are so clear and simple, even a begin- 
ner can produce the dishes with wonderful re- 
sults. The book is divided into two sections. The 
first section gives menus with recipes for seventy- 
six consecutive days. The second part is devoted 
to a choice of 339 recipes which may be substi- 
tuted" for any of those on the daily menus ; and 
instructions for preparing the sauces, garnishes 
and dressings called for on the menus. Outstand- 



ing feature of this book is its 40 beautiful color 

ing 
proper manner of service, and how the finished 



ng 
nd 



black and white illustrations showing the 



dish will look. The new Palmer House Cook 'Book 
is truly a masterpiece of culinary literature . . . 
a book which every manager, chef and steward 
... in every hotel, club, and restaurant should 
own and use. 318 pages of recipes and menus, 
plus 40 pages of illustrations, 5%x8 inches, cloth 
bound. 

The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book (Hirtzler) ...... $3.00 

The author was chef of Hotel St. Francis, San 
Francisco. Adapted for hotels, restaurants, clubs, 
coffee rooms, families and every place where 
high-class, wholesome cuisine is desired. This is 
the most important culinary book that has come 
from any press in the last twenty-five years. Mr. 



Hirtzler is known thruout Europe and America 
as one of the ablest chefs of the day. He made 
the cuisine of the Hotel St. Francis world-famous. 
A feature of the Hotel St. Francis Cook Book 
that will be appreciated by thousands of hotel 
people, caterers, families and all interested in 
home economics, is the selection and preparation 
of foods in season ; the presentation of breakfast, 
luncheon and dinner menus for every day in the 
year the selections appropriate, and all dishes 
actually prepared and served in the Hotel St. 
Francis. This feature of the book gives a sug- 
gestive quality, a reminder attribute, and a 
knowledge of food economies and food attributes 
that is hereby brought to the aid of the proficient 
and the learner, also enables even the inexperienc- 
ed to produce the well-balanced menu. The Hotel 
St. Francis Cook Book is indexed and cross in. 
dexed so that every recipe can be referred to on 
the instant. 

The Edge water Salad Book (Shircliffe) $5.00 

Contains more than 600 tested recipes for salads 
and salad dressings. Mr. Shircliffe has not only 
given the recipes, but in many cases has supple- 
mented them with author's notes, calling atten- 
tion to special health-giving features, and sug- 
gesting diets for the different ailments that af- 
flict humans. He also takes opportunity to preach 
many a short sermon on the importance of right 
eating and what is best for health from the 
cradle to old age. He also intersperses much of 
human interest in the way of anecdote, legend 
and historic events. In this way it is more than 
a cook book it is readable to those who are not 
so much interested in how to make salads as in 
the enjoyment of them. The great charm of the 
book is the illustrations, which are from direct 
photographs in the natural colors, so that the 
dishes illustrated have the eye-appeal and the 
enticing qualities of the real dish. It is a book 
that fits into every kitchen home, hotel, club, 
hospital, restaurant, lunch room, cafeteria, steam- 
ship, dining car, industrial catering plant, insti- 
tution, army mess in fact, wherever information 
is desired as to the why and how to prepare for 
the table. 

The Edgewoter Salad Portfolio (Shircliffe) $2.00 

A set of beautiful illustrations of salads taken 
from the Edgewater Beach Salad Book. They are 
mounted on heavy green cover stock, 8% x 11% 
inches, each showing one or two of the salads, 
and are suitable for framing. The portfolio may 
be used by the maitre d'hotel to assist him in sell- 
ing party menus. The illustrations are so natural 
and appetizing that they make strong appeal to 
patrons when selecting the salad course for special 
menus. Also these pictures serve as a guide to 
pantry girls, showing them how the finished salad 
should look. 

The Edgewater Sandwich Book (Shircliffe) $2.00 

Supplemented with chapters on hors d'oeuvres, 
supremes, canapes and relishes. More than 600 
recipes. This book is by the author of the Edge- 
water Salad Book, the most important culinary 
book produced in recent years. There are thirty 
illustrations of sandwiches and hors d'oeuvres. 
It will meet the requirements of all kinds of re- 
freshment places from the soda fountain to lunch 
room, tea room and high-class restaurant. Bound 
in convenient pocket size. 

A Selection of Dishes and the Chef's Reminder 
(Fellows) $1.00 

The book that has met with the largest sale and 
is in most demand from managers, stewards and 
cooks. It is in vest pocket form, 220 pages. The 
most complete and serviceable pocket reference 
book to culinary matters that has ever been pub- 
lished. It is not a cook book, in the general sense 
of the word, but is full of ideas and suggestions 
regarding bill-of-fare dishes. Chapters are de- 
voted to entrees of all kinds, salads, soups, con- 
sommes, fish and their sauces, sauces in general, 
garnishes, fancy potatoes, miscellaneous recipes, 
hints to cooks and stewards, suggestion for break- 
fast, lunch and supper dishes, chafing dish cook- 
ery, menus, and a pronouncing glossary of culi- 
nary terms. Hundreds of the dishes listed are 
given with their bill-of-fare names only, as the 
cooks understand the basic work in preparing 



dishes, and the sauces and garnishes are treated 
separately, with information as to their com- 
ponent parts. Thousands of men who possess a 
copy of this book say it is their greatest help. 
Printed on bond paper, bound in flexible cover. 

The Hotel Butcher, Garde Manger and Carver 
(Frank Rivers) $2.00 

The author has cultivated a new field in culinary 
literature, and produced a book both novel and 
useful. His experience as butcher, carver, chef 
and steward enabled him to compile facts regard- 
ing meats and meat economics, from the butcher 
shop to the dining-room table, that will be in- 
valuable to managers, stewards, chefs, and all 
persons employed in culinary work. His book 
digests the subjects of buying, handling, sale, 
and service of meats, poultry and fish for hotels, 
restaurants, clubs and institutions. It is varied 
with suggestions for the use of meats and trim- 
mings for particular dishes; the composition of 
these dishes set forth in concise form. The infor- 
mation is clarified by the use of about 300 illus- 
trations. The index is so comprehensive that any 
item may be referred to on the instant. 125 pages. 

Ideas for Refreshment Rooms $1.00 

This book is composed mainly of expositions of 
catering systems, in particular, tea room, lunch 
room, department store, cafeteria, school, indus- 
trial plant, dining car, club and outside. A valu- 
able feature of it is the illustrating of different 
accounting systems and report forms ; also plans 
of lunch rooms, kitchens and pantries, showing 
consistent lay-out. There are more than a hun- 
dred beautiful half-tone illustrations picturing 
refreshment rooms of many kinds, their decora- 
tion, and furnishment. Complete sets of menus 
of famous catering establishments are presented ; 
also a large number of menus to fit the lunch 
room, cafeteria, industrial plant, or school. Thru- 
out the book there is a plea for the balanced 
ration and right eating, the advocacy of plain 
foods simply prepared and appetizingly served, 
the nutritive value given careful consideration. 
There is a chapter on service; a chapter on the 
brewing and serving of tea and coffee ; several 
pages devoted to pantry prepared foods ; illustra- 
tions of kitchens, of restaurant checks, and of 
many interesting things, as electric equipment ; 
questions of fuel economy, illumination, and a 
hundred and one clever ideas in the marketing 
of prepared foods in public eating houses. The 
book is thoroly indexed and cross indexed to 
assure quick finding. 385 pages, cloth bound. 

The Culinary Handbook (Fellows) $2.00 

Presents in concise form information regarding 
the preparation and service of nearly 4,000 dif- 
ferent bill-of-fare dishes ; also gives much infor- 
mation of encyclopedic nature regarding foods 
of all kinds. Quick reference to every dish de- 
scribed is facilitated with an index of 39 columns 
arranged in alphabetical order, and cross indexed 
so that no matter what one is looking for, all he 
has to do is to find the initial letter and under it, 
in alphabetical order, for second, third and fourth 
letters, etc., the article wanted, with page on 
which it is found. Referring, for instance, to a 
sauce of any particular kind. Find the word Sauce 
in the index, and under it will be found in alpha- 
betical order 149 different sauces; and under 
Salads 71 different kinds, exclusive of the varia- 
tions in making. Under head of Sausage there are 
45 different kinds described, with directions for 
making as well as cooking and serving. In fact, 
the sausage information in this book is more 
complete than in any other published. 190 pages ; 
7 x 10 inches. 

The Menu Maker (Fellows) $2.00 

This is the last of the successful ready reference 
books compiled by Chas. Fellows, author of "A 
Selection of Dishes and the Chef's Reminder" 
and "The Culinary Handbook." In this book Mr. 
Fellows has compiled in concise form thousands 
of suggestions for daily changes on the bills-of- 
fare, both American and European plan, for 
breakfast, luncheon and dinner cards, and so ar- 
ranged as to give popular changes from day to 
day to give acceptable variety. The book is sup- 
plemented with 110 pages of sample menus and 



bills-of-fare, several of them photographic repro- 
ductions, and representing the cards of hotels and 
restaurants of both first and second class, lunch 
rooms, transportation catering menus, club menus, 
wine list, caterer's list, and several illustrations 
of glass, china and silverware and banquet 
scenes. The book is indexed ; printed on fine 
quality paper; page 7x10 inches, cloth bound. 

Paul Richards' Pastry Book $2.00 

This is the title in brief of "Paul Richards' Book 
of Breads, Cakes, Pastries, Ices and Sweetmeats, 
Especially Adapted for Hotel and Catering Pur- 
poses." The author is known as one of the most 
skillful all around bakers, pastry cooks and con- 
fectioners in America, and has demonstrated the 
quality of his work in leading hotels. In writing 
this book he took particular pains to have the 
recipes reliable and worded in such simple fashion 
that all who read them may readily understand 
and work from them. The book is in seven parts. 
Part I is devoted to fruit jellies and preserves ; 
jams, jellies, compotes and syrups ; preserved 
crushed fruits for sherbets and ices ; preserving 
pie fruits ; sugar boiling degrees ; colors. Part II, 
pastry and pie making, pastes and fillings ; pastry 
creams, patty cases, tarts and tartlets ; icings. 
Part III, cake baking; Part IV, puddings and 
sauces. Part V, ice creams, ices, punches, etc. 
Part VI, breads, rolls, buns, etc. Part VII, candy 
making and miscellaneous recipes; bread econo- 
mies in hotel ; caterers' price list. The recipes are 
readily found with the aid to 36 columns of index 
and cross index in the back of the book, this 
index forming in itself a complete directory, so 
to speak, of breads, pastry, ices and sugar foods. 
Printed on strong white paper ; pages 7x10 
inches, 168 pages, bound in cloth. 

Pastry for the Restaurant (Richards) $1.00 

A vest pocket book of 158 pages, is, as its title 
indicates, especially produced for the use of bak- 
ers employed in restaurants and European plan 
hotels. The style of work required for the Amer- 
ican plan hotel with table d'hote meal, and that 
for the European plan hotel restaurant, where 
each article is sold for a separate price, has 
brought about a demand for a book with recipes 
and methods especially adapted for the prepara- 
tion of bakery and pastry goods for individual 
sale. The first chapter is devoted to French 
pastries, which are now so generally sold, yet so 
little understood, because of the misnomer title ; 
then follows cakes and tarts of every kind ; pies, 
in great variety ; puddings, hot and cold ; ices, 
ice creams, and many specialties, all set forth 
with ingredients, quantities, and methods of mix- 
ing and preparing, and instructions for oven or 
temperature control. Mr. Richards' other books 
ha^e become standard the world over, and this 
one will be equally reliable. The index to this 
book makes a very complete reference to popular 
pastry goods and will be found valuable as a re- 
minder. The book is printed on bond paper. 

Candy for Dessert (Richards) $1.00 

Ice Cream for Small Plants (Etta H. Handy). . . .$2.50 
Whether you make your own ice cream or buy it 
on specification from a local manufacturer, you 
need this book. It has many practical suggestions 
for retailing and service ; also special chapters 
on the selection of manufacturing and storage 
equipment. There are 23 pages of pictures of 
specialty dishes. The book shows how high grade 
frozen foods can be made economically and ad- 
vantageously in small quantity, as in the hotel 
or restaurant. It is a practical handbook on the 
making of ice cream, and is written in non- 
technical language so that it can be easily under- 
stood by those not familiar with ice cream pro- 
duction. The formulas are written for use in a 
forty-quart freezer, but may be easily adapted 
to one-half or one-quarter that amount, or for 
even smaller quantity. The recipes are carefully 
standardized and have been successfully used to 
yield products of uniformly high quality that can 
be sold at a consistent profit. For those who buy 
ice cream from a local manufacturer, and want 
to control the quality, Ice Cream For Small Plants 
enables them to specify formulas for an almost 
unlimited variety of frozen desserts. 180 pages, 
5 x 7% inches, durable cloth binding. 



The Vest Pocket Pastry Book (Meister) $1.00 

This little book contains 500 recipes, includes 57 
for hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc. ; 77 for 
cold puddings, side dishes, jellies, etc. ; 90 for ice 
creams, water ices, punches, etc. ; 68 for pastes, 
patties, pies, tarts, etc.; 77 for cakes; 17 for 
icings, colorings, sugars, etc. ; 60 for bread, rolls, 
yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc., as well as 
55 miscellaneous recipes. Mr. Meister wrote this 
book at the request of the editor of The Hotel 
Monthly, who had heard his work highly compli- 
mented by his employers, who said they believed 
him to have no superior as a first-class work- 
man. The recipes, while given in few words, yet 
are easily understandable and have helped thou- 
sands of bakers to improve their work. Book is 
indexed; printed on bond paper. 

The Vest Pocket Vegetable Book (Moore) $1.00 

This book has done more to popularize the cook- 
ing and serving of vegetables in hotels and res- 
taurants than any other book ever published. It 
was written with this idea. The author took 
particular pains to make this little volume a 
classic and his masterpiece, and he succeeded re- 
markably well. Into 120 pages he has condensed 
more information regarding the history, cultiva- 
tion, nutritive qualities and approved forms of 
cooking and serving vegetables than can be 
found in any other book, no matter how large; 
and it has been demonstrated to be a book with- 
out mistakes. Recipes for soups, sauces, garnish- 
ings and salads supplement the general recipes. 
There are 78 ways of preparing potatoes, 19 of 
mushrooms, 19 of onions, 15 of cabbage, etc., 27 
of beans, 15 of rice, 25 of tomatoes, and others 
in number in proportion to their importance. 
The vegetables are given with their English 
names and the French and German translations. 
The book is indexed and printed on bond paper. 

The Book of Sauces (Senn) $1.00 

Mr. Senn is the author of the famous Twentieth 
Century Cookery Book, The Menu Book, Practical 
Gastronomy, and ten other culinary books that 
have become standard in Europe, and that have 
extensive sale in America. His Book of Sauces 
is the most complete work of the kind that has 
ever been produced. It treats the subject thoroly 
from every angle and covers all kinds of sauces 
for meat, poultry, fish and salad dishes ; also 
sweet sauces. This book is adapted not alone 
for the hotel and catering trades, but also for 
family use the world over. Epicures will find it 
invaluable for the suggestions and practical in- 
structions, together with the culinary lore there- 
in contained. Book is vest pocket size, printed 
on bond paper. 

The Fish and Oyster Book (Kientz) $1.00 

The author was for many years chef of Rector's 
(the noted sea foods restaurant in Chicago), is a 
handy vest pocket volume, the leaf measuring 
3x6% inches. In this book Mr. Kientz tells in 
concise manner how to cook practically every 
kind of fish that is brought to the American 
market; and not only explains the method of 
cooking, but also the making of the sauces and 
the manner of service. Every recipe is given with 
its bill-of-fare name in English and its translation 
into the French. The recipes include also such 
dishes as frogs' legs, all kinds of shell fish, snails, 
terrapin, and the fish force-meats. Also there is 
an appendix with specimen fish and oyster house 
luncheon and dinner menus, with and without 
wines. The book is indexed, printed on bond 
paper, bound in flexible cover. 

Economical Soups and Entrees (Vachon) .$1.00 

This book was written in response to a demand 
for a book that would tell how to prepare savory 
dishes from inexpensive materials at small cost; 
and, in particular, how to use up leftovers ; by 
which is meant good cooked foods not served at 
a previous meal, and which have not in any way 
lost their marketable value in the sense of de- 
terioration of quality, but which can be served 
in hotel or restaurant in the same appetizing 
manner that leftovers are served in well-to-do 
families. Mr. Vachon was selected to write this 
book because of his reputation as an economical 
chef. In it he has given recipes in particular for 
meat entrees of the savory order, stews, pies and 



croquettes, hash, salads and fried meats. The 
soups include creams, broths, bouillons, chowders, 
purees, pepper-pots and the like. It is two books 
in one, separately indexed, printed on bond paper, 
leaf 3x7 inches, bound in flexible cover. 

Eggs in a Thousand Ways (Meyer) $1.00 

This book gives more reliable information regard- 
ing eggs and their preparation for the table than 
can be found in any other book. Is indexed and 
cross indexed so that any method of cooking eggs 
and any of the garnishings can be referred to on 
the instant. The book starts with boiled eggs. 
Then (following the departmental index in al- 
phabetical order) are cold eggs, 79 ways; egg 
drinks, 22 kinds ; eggs in cases, 25 ways ; in 
cocottes, 24 ways; mollet, 79 ways; molded in 
timbales, 29 ways; fried, 33; fried poached, 38; 
hard eggs, 32 ; miscellaneous recipes, 27 ; omelets 
in 210 ways; poached, 227 ways; scrambled, 123; 
shirred, 95 ; stuffed, hard, 34 ; surprise omelets, 
9; sweet eggs, 16; sweet omelets, 38. The recipes 
are in condensed form. The book is vest pocket 
size, 150 pages, printed on bond paper. 

Drinks (Jacques Straub) $1.00 

This book is full of genuine pre-prohibition re- 
cipes for mixed Drinks. The author was wine ste- 
ward of the famous Blackstone Hotel Bar in 
Chicago. It is an authoritative treatise on how 
mixed drinks should be made. In addition to 700 
practical recipes, it has a preface by "Oscar" of 
the Waldorf, and an opening chapter outlining 
the care and medicinal value of wines. 

We recommend "Drinks" as the book being 
used by the finest hotels and clubs, by connois- 
seurs of beverages, and as a book that is author- 
itative and exceedingly practical because it was 
written by one who knew how, and was first 
published in the days before prohibition, (1914). 

The Menu Translator (Duchamp & Jenning) .... $3.00 
This book was formerly known as the "Uni- 
versal Dictionary of Menus" and served as a 
guide to thousands of menu-makers, stewards, 
and chefs. Today, it has been completely re- 
vised, greatly enlarged and lists about 12,000 
translations in French, English and German. 
Items are carefully arranged under 25 head- 
ings, making it easy to find any item. Now in 
its seventh edition, and one of the newest and 
most complete works of its kind. 137 pages, 
5x7% inches. 

Advertising of Hotels (Clarence Madden) $2.00 

This is the first practical, comprehensive inquiry 
into hotel advertising ever made available. It is 
the only book which treats the problem of selling 
rooms and service in its entirety promotion, 
publicity, "in-the-house", "word-of-mouth", copy, 
appropriation, media selection, and agency con- 
tact. Mr. Madden is acquainted with both sides 
of the advertising picture. His book brings the 
two into sharp focus and shows their proper re- 
lationship. . . Anyone who is in any way affected 
by hotel advertising should be sure to have on 
hand a copy of "THE ADVERTISING OF 
HOTELS" for study, reference, and guidance. 

The Von Ormon System of Hotel Control $ .50 

A book illustrating and describing the many forms 
used in the hotels of the Van Orman Chain of 
hotels. 

American Plan Check System (Lewis) $1.00 

Hospitality (McGovern) $1.00 

The American Waiter (Coins) $1.00 

This is the only published book that treats in- 
telligently of the waiter's work from bus boy to 
head waiter, for both hotel and restaurant re- 
quirements. Interspersed are chapters on the care 
of table wares, salad making, table setting, carv- 
ing, dishing up, handling of sea foods, building 
of banquet tables, and many other useful items 
of information. The book is illustrated, vest 
pocket size, printed on bond paper. 

The Hotel Monthly Bookshop 

John Willy, Inc. 
950 Merchandise Mart Chicago 54, Illinois 



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