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«l
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
RIVERSIDE
Ex Libris
ISAAC FOOT
DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE
JOHN EVELYN, F.KS.
VOL. I.
Digitized by tlie Internet Arcliive
in 2007 witli funding from
IVIicrosoft Corporation
Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/diarycorresponde01eveliala
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y/liWon m'jurf.j no 4
DJ A E Y
AND
CORRESPONDENCE
or
JOHN EVELYN, F.RS.,
AUTHOR OF THE " SYLVA.
TO WHICH IS 8UBJ0INBD
Wtiz ^Pribate Corregpontience
BETWBBN
KING CHARLES I. AND SIR EDWARD NICHOLAS,
AND BETWEEN
SIR EDWARD HYDE, AFTERWARDS EARL OF CLARENDON,
AND SIR RICHARD BROWNE.
EDITED PROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. AT WOTTON.
, BY WILLIAM BEAT, ESQ., E.A.S.
A NEW EDITION, IN FOUR VOLUMES.
CORRECTED, REVISED, AND ENLARGED.
VOL. I.
LONDON :
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHEE,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1850.
JDAii?
LONDON :
Ba&DPURV AND BVAN8, PBINTKRS, WHITKFKIARS.
CONTENTS.
. PAOB
ADVERTISEMENT TO THE PRESENT EDITION vii
Originai. Dedication xi
Preface j^jjj
Introduction xvii
Diary; from 1620 lo 1665 1
Addition^
Appendix
Additional Notes ^qq
420
ILLUSTEATIONS.
VOL. I.
PoETBAiT OP John Evelyn, from the Painting by Sib
Godfrey Knelier ....... FKonTianici.
View of Wotxon, in Surrey, the seat of John Evelyn to face Page i.
VOL. II.
Portrait of Mary, -wife of John Evelyn . . . ^soimirucB.
Pedigree of the Evelyn Family . . . At the end of the Voiome.
ADVERTISEMENT
PRESENT EDITION OE EVELYNS DLLEY.
This work has been out of print for many years ;
and little more is necessary, in presenting to the
public an Edition which has been long required, than
to indicate such differences as will be found to exist
between the present and former pubHcations.
The Dedication, Preface, and Introduction, are
reprinted from those which appeared in the Quarto
Editions of 1818, and in the Octavo Edition of 1827.
In compliance with a wish very generally eX'
pressed, the spelling of the Diary has been modern-
ized. No other change will be found in the text,
except such as a fresh examination of the original
manuscript had rendered essential to its correctness
and completeness.
The Diary of Evelyn does not, in all respects,
strictly fulfil what the term impHes. Information is
VUl ADVERTISEMENT.
continually found in it (introduced by such expres-
sions as " afterwards," " since," " now "), which it
could not have contained if written from day to day.
Mistakes are also made which the writer must have
escaped, if the record had been always entered on the
day, and in the place, to which it refers. In the
Additional Notes appended to the present Edition
particular mention is made of some few of these ; and
as a slight, but perfectly satisfactory, evidence that
the form in which we have received the work is not
that in which it was originally written, it may be
worth adding, in this place, that the notice of " Jeru-
salem Church" (vol. i., p. 32), slipped by accident
into the entries which refer to Antwerp, belongs to
those of Bruges, where the church, so called from its
containing a facsimile of the Holy Sepulchre, is still
shown, and the legend told of the citizen whose journeys
to the Holy Land enabled him to complete it.
The truth appears to be, that Evelyn's Diary, as
found among the papers at Wotton, had been copied
by the writer from memoranda made at the time
of the occurrences noted in it, and had received
occasional alterations and additions in the course
of transcription. Evelyn has himself told us in
what way the book originated. "In imitation of
" what I had seen my father do," he remarks, when
speaking of himself in his twelfth year, " I began to
" observe matters more punctually, which I did use
" to set down in a blank almanack." If we suppose
ADVERTISEMENT, IX
the matters tlius observed to have been gradually
transferred bj Evelyn from the blank almanacks to
the quarto volume in which they were found, and
from which the volumes before the reader are printed,
the circumstance will explain discrepancies otherwise
not easily reconciled, and will account for differing
descriptions of the same objects and occurrences
which have occasionally been found in the manuscript
thus compiled. The quarto, still at Wotton, consists
of seven hundred pages written clearly by Evelyn in
a very small close hand, and containing the continuous
records of fifty-six years.
The reader will observe, in the original preface to
the Diary, acknowledgments of the great and mate-
rial assistance rendered to its Editor by Mr. Upcott.
The interest taken by the latter gentleman in the pub-
lication of this delightful book, continued unabated
until his death ; and the latest literary labour in which
he was engaged, was the revision and preparation of
the present edition. He lived to complete, for this
purpose, a fresh and careful comparison of the edition
printed in octavo in 1827 (which he had himself,
with the exception of the earliest sheets of the first
volume, superintended for the press) with the original
manuscript ; by which many material omissions in
the earher quartos were supplied, and other not
unimportant corrections made.
It is due to Mr. Upcott to add that these additions
would not so long have been withheld, if the early
VOL. T. b
X ADVERTISEMENT.
sheets of the first volume of the octavo edition had
not been printed off before its formal revision was
undertaken by him. The octavo and the quartos are
only in agreement at the outset. Many curious dis-
crepancies are afterwards observable, which resulted
from Mr. Upcott's anxiety, as soon as the opportunity
was offered liim, to bring the text of the octavo into
more exact agreement with the original.
While engaged in this labour he was permitted ta
have access to the manuscripts preserved at Wotton ;
and, desiring to complete the selections from Evelyn's
Correspondence, originally published with the Diary,
he transcribed many new and hitherto unpublished
letters, also with a view to this edition, and added
several others derived from private sources. The
Evelyn Correspondence, thus enriched by many ori-
ginal letters of great interest, will occupy the same
space as the Diary.
Januai'yt 1850.
DEDICATION.
TO JOHN EVELYN, ESQ.
OF WOTTON, IN SUBRET..
Sir,
TiaE last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the
late Lady Evelyn, under whose permission it wbs to be
given to the Public, were in the hands of the Printer, when
it pleased God to release her from a long and painful
illness, which she had borne with the greatest fortitude
and resignation to the Divine Will.
These papers descended with the estate, from the cele-
brated John Evelyn, Esq. (a relative of your immediate
ancestor) to his great-great-grandson, the late Sir Frederick
Evelyn, Bart. This gentleman dying without issue,
entrusted the whole to his Lady, whose loss we have now
to lament; of whose worth, and of the value of whose
friendship, I have happily had long knowledge and expe-
rience. Alive to the honour of the family, of which she
was thus made the representative, she maintained it in
every point, and with the most active benevolence ; and
her care extended to every part of the property attached
to the domain. Mr. Evelyn had formed in his own mind
a plan of what he called an " Elysium Britannicum,"
in which the Library and Garden were intended to be
b'2
Xll DEDICATION.
the principal objects : could he return and visit this his
beloved Seat, he would find his idea realised by the
arrangement and addition which her Ladyship had made to
his library, and by the disposition of the flower-garden
and greenhouse, which she had embellished with the
most beautiful and curious flowers and plants, both
native and exotic.
In completion and full justification of the confidence
thus reposed in her, her Ladyship has returned the Estate
with its valuable appendages, to the family, in your
person.
I have, therefore^ now to ofifer these Volumes to you,
Sir ; with a wish, that you and your posterity may long
€njoy the possessions, and continue the line of a family so
much distinguished, in many of its branches, for superior
'Worth and eminence.
I am. Sir,
Your most obedient.
And most humble servant,
WILLIAM BRAY.
SJtere. 2nd Jan., 1818.
PREFACE.
The following pages are taken from the Journal of
JoHX Evelyn, Esq. author (amongst many other works)
of the celebrated Sylva, a Treatise on Forest-Trees, and
from which he has often been known by the name of
" The Sylva Evelyn." The Journal is written by him in
a very small, close hand, in a quarto volume containing
700 pages, which commences in 1641, and is continued
to the end of 1697; and from thence is carried on in a
smaller book till within about three weeks of his death,
which happened 27th Eeb., 1705-6, in the 86th year of
his age.
These books, with numberless other papers in his hand-
writing, are in the valuable library at Wotton, which was
chiefly collected by him. Lady Evelyn, the late possessor
of that very respectable old Mansion, after much solicita-
tion from many persons, consented to favour the Public
XIV PREFACE.
with this communication. The last sheets were in the
hands of the Printer, when the death of that Lady
happened.
The Editor who has been intrusted with the preparation
of the work for the Press, is fully diffident of his com-
petence to make a proper selection; and is even aware
that many things will be found in its pages which, in the
opinion of some, and not injudicious. Critics, may appear
too unimportant to meet the public eye. But it has been
thought that some information, at least some amusement,
would be furnished by the publication ; and it has been
supposed that some curious particulars of persons and
transactions would be found in the accompanying notes.
Though these papers may not be of importance enough
to appear in the pages of an Historian of the Kingdom,
they may, in some particulars, set even such an one right ;
and, though the notices are short, they may, as to persons,
give some hints to Biographers, or at least may gratify
the curiosity of those who are inquisitive after the mode
in which their ancestors conducted business, or passed
their time. It is hoped that such will not be altogether
disappointed.
Thus, when mention is made of great men going after
dinner to attend a Council of State, or the business of
PREFACE. 'XV
their particular Offices^ or the Bowling-Green, or even
the Church ; of an Hour's Sermon being of a moderate
length ; of ladies painting their faces being a novelty ; or
of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing,
after having just risen out of bed ; of the female attendant
of a lady of fashion travelling on a pillion behind one of
the footmen, and the footmen riding with swords ; — such
things, in the view above-mentioned, may not be altogether
incurious.
For many corrections and many of the Notes the Editor
acknowledges, with great pleasure and regard, that he is
indebted to James Bindley, Esq.,* of Somerset-House, a
Gentleman who possesses an invaluable Collection of the
most rare Books and Pamphlets, and whose liberality in
communications is equal to the abihty afforded by such
a collection.
He has also most cheerfully to acknowledge how much
he is obliged for many historical notes and elucidations
to a literary Gentleman very conversant with English
History, whose name he would gladly give, were it not
withheld by particular request, and whose research,
* Since the first edition of this Work, the Editor has to lament the loss of
this valuable Friend ; who died in the 81st year of his age. Sept, 11, 1818,
just as the printing of the Second Edition was begun.
XTl PREFACE,
through upwards of seven hundred contemporary volumes
of Manuscripts and Tracts, has doubtless given additional
interest to many of the Letters.
The Editor returns his best thanks also to Mr. Upcott,
of the London Institution, for the great and material
assistance received from him in this Pubhcation, besides
his attention to the superintendence of the Press.
INTRODUCTION.
Mr. Evelyn lived in the busy and important times of
King Charles 1., Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II., King
James II., and King William, and early accustomed him-
self to note such things as occurred, which he thought
worthy of remembrance. He was known to, and had
much personal intercourse with the Kings Charles II. and
James II. ; and he was in habits of great intimacy with
many of the ministers of these two monarchs, and with
many of the eminent men of those days, as well amongst
the clergy as the laity. Foreigners distinguished for
learning, or arts, who came to England, did not leave it
without visiting him.
In the first edition of the " Biographia Britannica," in
folio. Dr. Campbell has given a long article relating to this
gentleman. Dr. Hunter, in his edition of the " Sylva," in
1776, has copied great part of what Dr. Campbell had writ-
ten. Dr. Kippis added several particulars in the Second
Edition of the " Biographia,^' in 1793; and Mr. Chal-
mers gives some farther information in his '^Biographical
Dictionary,^' in 8vo. (1816). But the following pages will
still contribute more extensive and important particulars
of this eminent man. They will show that he did not
travel merely to count steeples, as he expresses himself in
one of his Letters : they will develop his private character
as one of the most amiable kind. With a strong predilec-
tion for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings
XVUl INTRODUCTION.
Charles II. and James II., formed when they resided at
Paris, he was yet utterly averse to the arbitrary measures
of these monarchs.
Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and
practice of the Church of England, he yet felt the most
liberal sentiments for those who differed from him in
opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all persuasions;
nor did he think it necessary to break connexion with
any one who had even been induced to desert the Church
of England, and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome.
In writing to the brother of a gentleman thus circum-
stanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in this admirable
manner : " For the rest, we must commit to Providence
the success of times and mitigation of proselytical fervours ;
having for my own particular a very great charity for all
who sincerely adore the Blessed Jesus, our common and
dear Saviour, as being full of hope that God (however the
present zeal of some, and the scandals taken by others at
the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England
may transport them) will at last compassionate our infir-
mities, clarify our judgments, and make abatement for our
ignorances, superstructures, passions, and errors of corrupt
times and interests, of which the Romish persuasion can
no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity and
secular polity may pretend. But God will make all things
manifest in his own time, only let us possess ourselves in
patience and charity. This will cover a multitude of
imperfections."
He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics
in general, admitting that some of the laws enacted against
them might be mitigated ; but of the Jesuits he had the
very worst opinion, considering them as a most dangerous
Society, and the principal authors of the misfortunes which
befel King James II., and of the horrible persecutions of
the Protestants in France and Savoy.
INTKODUCTION. XIX
He must have conducted himself with uncommon pru-
dence and addx'ess : for he had personal friends in the
Court of Cromwell, at the saioe time that he -was corre-
sponding with his father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne, the
ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris ; and at the same
period that he paid his coiurt to the king, he maintained
his intimacy with a disgraced minister.
In his travels, he made acquaintance not only with men
eminent for learning, but Avith men ingenious in every art
and profession.
His manners we may presume to have been most agree-
able : for his company was sought by the greatest men, not
merely by inviting him to their own tables, but by their
repeated visits to him at his own house; and this was
equally the case with regard to the ladies, of many of
whom he speaks in the highest style of admiration, affec-
tion, and respect. He was master of the French, Italian,
and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal is
manifest ; but at what time he found opportunities for
study, it is not easy to say. He acknowledges himself to
have been idle, while at Oxford ; and, when on his travels,
he had little time for reading, except when he stayed about
nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was
likewise stationary for several months. At Rome, he
remained a considerable time ; but, whilst there, he was so
continually engaged in viewing the great variety of inte-
resting objects to be seen in that city, that he could have
found little leisure for reading. When resident in England,
he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous
oflBces, in paying visits, in receiving company at home,
and in examining whatever was deemed worthy of curiosity,
or of scientific observation, that it is astonishing how he
found the opportunity to compose the numerous books
which he published, and the much greater number of
Papers, on almost every subject, which still remain in
XX INTRODUCTION.
manuscript ; * to say nothing of the very extensive and
voluminous correspondence which he appears to have car-
ried on during his long life, with men of the greatest
eminence in Church and State, and the most distinguished
for learning, both Englishmen and foreigners. In this
correspondence, he does not seem to have made use of an
amanuensis ; and he has left transcripts in his own hand of
great numbers of letters both received and sent. He
observes, indeed, in one of these, that he seldom went to
bed before twelve, or closed his eyes before one o'clock.
He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with
his own, of an enlightened mind, who had read much, and
was skilled in etching and painting, yet attentive to the
domestic concerns of her household, and a most aflFec-
tionate mother. Of her personal attractions an idea may
be formed from the print accompanying this work,
engraved from a most exquisite drawing, in pencil, by
that celebrated French artist, Nanteuil, in 1650.
So many particulars of Mr. Evelyn have been given in
the " Biographia Britannica/'f and in Mr. Chalmers's
valuable memoir in the " Biographical Dictionary," that it
is unnecessary to repeat them ; but some circumstances
have been there omitted, and others, which are mentioned,
admit of elucidation, or addition. Such it is proposed to
notice here, in addition to the foregoing personal sketch.
His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family
who settled in Surrey. John, father of this George, was
of Kingston, in 1520, and married a daughter of David
Vincent, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Long Ditton, near
Kingston, which afterwards came into the hands of
George, who there carried on the manufacture of gun-
* Amongst these is a Bible bound in three volumes, the pages filled with
notes. See Appendix to the Second Volume of this Edition for a list of
Evelyn's published and unpublished writings, as far as it has been possible
to ascertain them. + Second Edition, 1 793, vol. v.
INTRODUCTION. XXI
powder. He purchased very considerable estates in
Surrey, and three of his sons became heads of three
famihes, viz., Thomas, his eldest son, at Long Ditton ;
John at Godstone, and Richard at Wottou. Each of
these three families had the title of Baronet conferred on
them at different times, viz., at Godstone, in 1660; Long
Ditton, in 1683 ; and Wotton, in 1713.
The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at God-
stone as well as at Long Ditton ; but it does not appear
that there ever was any mill at Wotton, or that the pur-
chase of that place was made with such a view. Nor does
it appear, from the words quoted in the " Biographia,^^
that Mr. Evelyn^s grandfather planted the timber, with
which Wotton was, and always has been, so well stored.
The soil produces it naturally, and, in addition to what has
been planted, it has at aU times been carefully preserved.
It may be not altogether incurious to observe that,
though Mr. Evelyn's father was a man of very considerable
fortune, the first rudiments of this son's learning were
acquired from the village schoolmaster over the porch of
Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, and
at College, he himself speaks with great humility ; nor
did he add much to his stock of knowledge, whilst he
resided in the Middle Temple, to which his father sent
him, with the intention that he should apply to what he
calls " an impolished study," which he says he never liked.
More will be said of this in a subsequent page.
The " Biographia " does not notice his tour in France,
Flanders, and Holland, in 1641, when he made a short
campaign as a volunteer in an English regiment then in
service in Flanders.*
* This expression is, perhaps, hardly applicable to the fact of Evelyn's
having vt^itnessed a siege merely as a curious spectator. He reached the
camp on the 2nd, and left it on the 8th of August, 1641. It is certain, how-
ever, that during these six days he took his turn on duty, and trailed a piiie.
— See Diai-y, v. i., p. 19. [u.]
XXn INTRODUCTION.
Nor does it notice his having set out, with intent to
join King Charles I. at Brentford ; and subsequently
desisting when the result of that battle became known, on
the ground that his brother's as well as his own estates
were so near London as to be fully in the power of the
Parliament, and that their continued adherence would
have been certain ruin to themselves without any advan-
tage to his Majesty. In this dangerous conjuncture he
asked and obtained the King's leave to travel. Of these
travels, and the observations he made therein, an ample
account is given in this Diary.
The national troubles coming on before he had engaged
in any settled plan for his future life, it appears that he
had thoughts of living in the most private manner, and
that, with his brother's permission, he had even begun to
prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he
afterwards wholly abandon his intention, if the plan of a
college, which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really
formed on a serious idea. This scheme is given at length
in the " Biographia," and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the
"Sylva" in 1776; but it may be observed that he pro-
poses it should not be more than twenty-five miles from
London.
As to his answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric
on Solitude, in which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part,
and urges the preference to which public employment and
an active life is entitled, — it may be considered as the
playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, would
controvert another's position, though in reality agreeing
with his own opinion ; if we think him serious in two
letters to Mr. Abraham Cowley, dated 12th March and
24th August, 1666, in the former of which he writes:
" You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not
to name it affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated
recess, and envied it in others, should become an advocate
INTRODUCTION. XXIU
for the enemy, wliich of all others it abhors and flies from.
I conjure you to believe that I am still of the same mind,
and that there is no person alive who does more honour
and breathe after the life and repose you so happily
cultivate and advance by your example ; but, as those who
praised dirt, a flea, and the gout, so have I public employ-
ment in that trifling Essay, and that in so weak a style
compared with my antagonist's, as by that alone it will
appear I neither was nor could be serious, and I hope you
believe I speak my very soul to you.
' Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra, mista Camoenis
Otia sunt ' "
In the other, he says, " I pronounce it to you from my
heart as oft as I consider it, that I look on your fruitions
with inexpressible emulation, and should think myself
more happy than crowned heads, were I, as you, the arbiter
of mine own life, and could break from those gilded toys
to taste your well-described joys with such a wife and such
a friend, whose conversation exceeds all that the mistaken
world calls happiness." But, in truth, Mr. Evelyn's mind
was too active to admit of solitude at all times, however
desirable it might appear to him in theory.
After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time
of Cromwell, he kept up a constant correspondence with
Sir Richard Browne (his father-in-law), the King's Am-
bassador at Paris ; and though his connexion must have
been known, it does not appear that he met with any
interruption from the government here. Indeed, though
he remained a decided Hoyalist, he managed so well as
to have intimate friends even amongst those nearly con-
nected with Cromwell ; and to this we may attribute his
being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he
never did take. In 1659, he published " An Apology for
the Koyal Party ;" and soon after printed a paper which
XXIV INTRODUCTION.
was of great service to the King, entitled " The late News,
or Message from Brussels Unmasked/^ which was an
answer to a pamphlet designed to represent the King in
the worst light.
On the Restoration, we find him very frequently at
Court ; and he became engaged in many public employ-
ments, still attending to his studies and literary pursuits.
Amongst these, is particularly to be mentioned the Royal
Society, in the establishment and conduct of which he
took a very active part. He procured Mr. Howard's
library to be given to them ; and by his influence, in 1667,
the Arundelian Marbles were obtained for the University
of Oxford.
His first appointment to a public ofiice was in 1662, as
a Commissioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets,
and incumbrances, and regulating hackney-coaches in
London. In the same year, he sat as a Commissioner on
an enquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, &c.,
concerning Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 1664, he
was in a commission for regulating the Mint; in the
same year, was appointed one of the Commissioners for
the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch war; and
he was continued in the same employment in the second
war with that country.
He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of
St. Paul's Cathedral, shortly before it was burnt, in 1666.
In that year, he was also in a commission for regulating
the farming and making saltpetre; and in 1671, we find
him a Commissioner of Plantations on the establishment
of the Board, to which the Council of Trade was added
in 1672.
In 1685, he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy
Seal, during the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who
held that office), on his going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland.
On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in 1695, he
INTRODUCTION. XXV
was one of the Commissioners; and, on 30th June, 1696,
laid the first stone of that building. He was also appointed
Treasurer, with a salary of £200 a year ; but he says that
it was a long time before he received any part of it.
When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698,
proposing to instruct himself in the art of ship-building,
he was desirous of having the use of Sayes Court, in conse-
quence of its vicinity to the King's dock-yard at Deptford.
This was conceded ; but during his stay he did so much
damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 for it.
He especially regrets the mischief done to his famous
holly-hedge, which might have been thought beyond the
reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's favourite recrea-
tions had been, to demolish the hedges by riding through
them in a wheel-barrow.
October, 1699, his elder brother, George Evelyn, dying
without male issue, aged eighty -three, he succeeded to the
paternal estate ; and, in May following, he quitted Sayes
Court, and went to Wotton, where he passed the remainder
of his life, with the exception of occasional visits to London,
where he retained a house. In the great storm of 1708,
he mentions in his last Edition of the " Sylva," above
1000 trees were blown down in sight of his residence.
He died at his house in London, 27th February, 1705-8,
in the eighty-sixth year of his age, and was buried at
Wotton. His lady survived him nearly three years, dying
9th February, 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth year, and was
buried near him at Wotton. The inscriptions on their
tombs, and on those of hi^ father and mother, are sub-
joined. His personal character was truly amiable. In the
relative duties of father, husband, and friend, few could
exceed him.
Of Mr. Evelyn's children, a son, who died at the age of
five, and a daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were
almost prodigies. The particulars of their extraordinary
XXVI INTRODUCTION.
endowments, and the profound manner in which he was
affected at their deaths, may be seen in these volumes,
and cannot be read without exciting the most tender
emotions.
One daughter was well and happily settled; another
less so ; but she did not survive her marriage more than a
few months. The only son who lived to the age of man-
hood, inherited his father^s love of learning, and distin-
guished himself by several publications.
Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner for the care
of the Sick and Wounded was very laborious ; and, from
the nature of it, must have been extremely unpleasant.
Almost the whole labour was in his department, which
included all the ports between the river Thames and Ports-
mouth ; and he had to travel in all seasons and weathers,
by land and by water, in the execution of his office, to
which he gave the strictest attention. It was rendered
still more disagreeable by the great difficulty which he
found in procuring money for support of the prisoners.
In the library at Wotton, are copies of numerous letters
to the Lord Treasurer and Officers of State, representing,
in the strongest terms, the great distress of the poor men,
and of those who had furnished lodging and necessaries
for them. At one time, there were such arrears of
payment to the victuallers that, on landing additional sick
and wounded, they lay some time in the streets, the
publicans refusing to receive them, and shutting up their
houses. After all this trouble and fatigue, he found as
great difficulty in getting his accounts settled.* In
* 2nd October, 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington,
Sir William Coventry, and Sir Philip Warwick, complaining of want of money
for the prisoners ; praying that whilst he and his brother-Commissioners
adventure their persons and all that is dear to them, in this uncomfortable
service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning
their care ; and adding that they have lost their officers and servants by the
pestilence, and are hourly environed with the saddest objects of perishing
INTEODITCTION. XXVU
January, 1665-6, he formed a plan for an Infirmary at
Chatham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid before
the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it ; but
it does not appear that it was carried into execution.
His employments, in connection with the repair of
St. Paul's (which, however, occupied him but a brief time),
as in the Commission of Trade and Plantations, and in the
building of Greenwich Hospital, were much better adapted
to his inclinations and pursuits.
As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign or
King James II., he had a difficult task to perform. He
was most steadily attached to the Church of England, and
the King required the Seal to be affixed to many things
incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This, on
some occasions, he refused to do, particularly to a license
to Dr. Obadiah Walker to print Popish books ;* and on
other occasions he absented himself, leaving it to his
brother-Commissioners to act as they thought fit. Such,
however, was the King's estimation of him, that no dis-
pleasure was evinced on this account.
Of Mr. Evelyn's attempt to bring Colonel Morley
(Cromwell's Lieutenant of the Tower immediately pre-
ceding the Restoration) over to the King's interest, an im-
perfect account is given in the '' Biographia," partly taken
from the additions to " Baker's Chronicle," which was pub-
lished with a continuation in 1696. The fact is, that there
was great friendship between these gentlemen, and Mr.
Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the King's
interest. He saw him several times, and put his life into
people. " I have," says he, "fifteen places full of sick men, where they put
me to unspeakable trouble ; the magistrates and justices, who should further
us in our exigencies, hindering the people from giving us quarters, jealous of
the contagion, and causing them to shut the doors at our approach."
* Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, but had re-
nounced it, and turned Papist
C2
XXVm INTEODUCTION.
his hands by writing to him on 12th January, 1659-60 ; *
he did not succeed, and Colonel Morley was too much his
friend to betray him : but so far from the Colonel having
settled matters privately with Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper,
or General Monk,t as there described, he was obliged, when
the Restoration took place, actually to apply to Mr. Evelyn
to procure his pardon; who obtained it accordingly,
though, as he states, the Colonel was obliged to pay a large
sum of money for it. This could not have happened, if there
had been any previous negotiation with General Monk.
There are some mistakes in the " Biographia " as to
Mr. Evelyn's Works.J Dr. Campbell, who wrote in the
original edition, took some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn's
book, entitled, "Navigation and Commerce, their Origin
and Progress," from the charge of being an imperfect
work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title.
But the Doctor, who had not the information which this
Journal so amply affords on this subject, was not aware
that what was so printed was nothing more than an
Introduction to the History of the Dutch War ; a work
undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express command of
Kling Charles II., and the materials for which were
furnished by the Officers of State. The completion of
this work, after considerable progress had been made in
it, was put a stop to by the King himself, for what reason
does not appear; but perhaps it was found that Mr.
Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the truth con-
cerning a transaction, which it will be seen by his Journal
• A copy of this letter, with a note of Mr. Evelyn's subjoined, is given
among the illustrations.
+ Colonel Morley's name is scarcely mentioned in the account of General
Monk's conduct on this occasion, written by Jolm Price, D.D. (who was
sent to him on the king's behalf, and had continual intercourse with him),
published in 1680, and reprinted by Baron Maseres, in 1815.
X For an attempt to draw out a con'ect list of such as have been published,
see Illustrations in the Appendix to vol. ii. of the present Edition.
INTRODUCTION. XXIX
that he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History, as far
as he had proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend,
Mr. Pepys, of the Admiralty, who did not return it; but
as the books and manuscripts belonging to Mr. Pepys
passed into the possession of Magdalen College, Cambridge,
it was hoped it might be there preserved. The Editor
went to Cambridge for the purpose of seeing it ; and was
favoured with access to the library, and with the most
obliging personal attendance of the Hon. Mr. Fortescue,
one of the Fellows of the College ; but, after a diligent
search for several hours, it could not be found.
Dr. Campbell understood " The Mystery of Jesuitism "
to be a single volume ; but there were three published
in different years. The translation of the second was
undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express desire of Lord
Clarendon and his son, as appears by a letter of Mr.
Evelyn to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February, 1664. The
third was translated by Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn ; but a
fuller statement of this will be found in a note to one
of the entries of the Diary.*
In giving a list of his publications, the authors of the
"Biographia" say, "As several of these treatises were
printed before the author's return to England, and others
without his name, we must depend on the general opinion
of the world, and the authority of Mr. Wood for their being
his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a mistake.'' t
They add, " We know nothing of the ' Mundus Muliebris ;
or, the Ladies' Dressing Koom unlocked,' except that it
has had a place in the Catalogue of our Author's Works,
from which therefore we have no right to remove it." %
There is no doubt of his being the author. Under 1685,
Mr. Evelyn, in his account of his daughter Mary, says,
she " put in many pretty symbols in the * Mundus
* Vol. i., p. 387. f Biog. Brit., vol. v., 2nd edit, p. 611, note E.
J Ibid. p. 624, note S.
XXX INTRODUCTION.
Muliebris/ wherein is an enumeration of the immense
variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the
sex."
In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated 9th February, 1664,
he speaks of having written a Play.
The authors of the " Biographia " remark of his resi-
dence abroad, that " The account, which Mr. Boyle received
from Mr. Evelyn,* of the method used by the Italians
for preserving snow in pits, is an admirable specimen of
that care with which he registered his discoveries, as well
as the curiosity which prompted him to inquire into every
thing worthy of notice, either natural or artificial, in the
countries through which he passed. It is much to be
regretted that a work so entertaining and instructive as
a History of his Travels would have been, appeared, even
to so indefatigable a person as he was, a task too laborious
for him to undertake; for, we should then have seen, in
a clear and true light, many things in reference to Italy
which are now very indistinctly and partially represented ;
and we should also have met with much new matter never
touched before, and of which we shall now probably never
hear at all." f
What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn's travels is partly
supplied in the present Diary, but not so fully as could
be wished. That he made many observations which will
not be found here, appears by the above quotation from
Mr. Boyle ; and by an account of the manner of making
bread in France, which he communicated to Mr. Hough-
ton, a Fellow of the Royal Society, who published it in
some papers which he printed in 1681, and following years.
From the numerous authors who have spoken in high
terms of Mr. Evelyn, we will select the two following
notices of him.
In the " Biographia/' Dr. Campbell says, " It is certain
♦ Boyle's Works, vol. ii,, p. 306. + Biog. Brit., vol. v., p. 610, note D.
INTRODUCTION. XXXI
that very few authors Avho have written in our language
deserve the character of able and agreeable writers so well
as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was acquainted with most
sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, yet was
very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from
being a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he
had learning ; and he knew how to give all these a proper
place in his works, so as never to pass for a pedant, even with
such as were least in love with literature, and to be justly
esteemed a polite author by those who knew it best.'^ *
Horace Walpole (afterwards Earl of Orford), in his
Catalogue of Engravers, gives us the following admirably
drawn character, pp. 85, 86 : " If Mr. Evelyn had not
been an artist himself, as I think I can prove he was,
I should yet have found it difficult to deny myself the
pleasure of allotting him a place among the arts he loved,
promoted, patronised; and it would be but justice to
inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records,
as I have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise
him. But they are trifling blemishes compared with
his amiable virtues and beneficence; and it may be
remarked, that tVie worst I have said of him is, that he
knew more than he always communicated. It is no
unwelcome satire to say, that a man's intelligence and
philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write his Hfe,
which may be found detailed in the new edition of his
' Sculptura,' in ' Collins's Baronetage,' in the ' General
Dictionary,' and in the new ' Biographical Dictionary ; '
but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to
eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity,
instruction, and benevolence. The works of the Creator,
and the minute labours of the creature, were all objects of
his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of the one, and
assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from
* Biog. Brit., vol. v., p. 814, note I.
XXXll INTRODUCTION.
examination ; was a courtier that flattered only by inform-
ing his Prince, and by pointing out what was worthy of
him to countenance ; and really was the neighbour of the
Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been
the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works,
will subscribe to my assertion. He was one of the first
promoters of the Royal Society ; a patron of the ingenious
and the indigent ; and peculiarly serviceable to the lettered
world ; for, besides his writings and discoveries, he obtained
the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and
the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. — Nor is it
the least part of his praise, that he, who proposed to
Mr. Boyle the erection of a Philosophical College for
retired and speculative persons, had the honesty to write
in defence of active life against Sir George Mackenzie's
'Essay on Solitude.' He knew that retirement, in his
own hands, was industry and benefit to mankind ; but in
those of others, laziness and inutility."
His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College,
Oxford, and, when about fifteen years old, wrote that
elegant Greek Poem which is prefixed to the second
Edition of the " Sylva." He translated Rapin on Gardens,
in four books, written in Latin verse. His father annexed
the second book of this to the second edition of his "Sylva."
He also translated from the Greek of Plutarch the life of
Alexander the Great, printed in the fourth volume of
" Plutarch's Lives, by several Hands ; " and from the
French, the History of the Grand Viziers Mahomet and
Achmet Coprogli. There are several poems of his, of
which some are printed in " Dryden's Miscellanies," and
more in " Nicols's Collection of Poems."
In December, 1688, he was presented to the Prince of
Orange, at Abington, by Colonel Sidney and Colonel
Berkley; and was one of the volunteers in Lord Lovelace's
troop, when his lordship secured Oxford for the Prince.
INTRODUCTION. XXXIU
In ] 690, he purchased the place of chief clerk of the Trea-
sury ; but, in the next year, he was by some means removed
from it by Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office. In
August, 1692, he Avas made one of the Commissioners of
the Revenue in Ireland, from whence he returned to
England in 1696, in very ill health, and died 24th March,
1698, in his father's lifetime.
He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Richard
Spencer, Esq., a Turkey merchant, by whom he had
two sons and three daughters. The eldest son, and the
eldest daughter, Martha-Mary, and youngest daughter,
Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter, Ehzabeth,
married Simon Harcourt, Esq., son of the Lord Chancel-
lor Harcourt. September 18th, 1705, the son John, who
had succeeded his grandfather at Wotton, married Anne,
daughter of Edward Boscawen, Esq., of the county of
Cornwall; and, by letters patent, dated 30 July, 1713,
was created a Baronet. He inherited the virtue and the
taste for learning, as well as the patrimony, of his ances-
tors; and lived at Wotton universally loved and respected.
He built a library there, forty-five feet long, fourteen wide,
and as many high, for the reception of the large and
curious collection of books made by his grandfather, father,
and himself; and where they now remain. He was a Fellow
of the Royal Society, was long the first Commissioner of
the Customs, and died 15th July, 1763, in the eighty-
second year of his age.
By his lady, who died before him, he had several
children, and was succeeded by John the eldest, who
married Mary, daughter of Hugh Boscawen, Viscount Fal-
mouth, and died 11th June, 1767, in the 61st year of his
age. He was Clerk of the Green Cloth to Frederick Prince
of Wales, father of George III., and to that King when
Prince of Wales, and after he came to the Crown. He
represented the Borough of Helston in several Parhaments,
XXXIV INTRODUCTION.
and to the time of his death. He had only one son^
Frederick, who succeeded to the title and estate, and
three daughters. Of the daughters, two died unmarried;
the third, Augusta, married the Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin,
Rector of Wotton and Abinger; but she died without
issue. Sir Frederick was in the army in the early part of
his life ; and was in Elliot's Light-Horse, when that
regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous
Battle of Minden, in Germany, in 1759. He married
Mary, daughter of William Turton, Esq. of Staffordshire,
and, dying without issue in 1813, he left his estate to his
Lady. She lived at Wotton, where she fully maintained
the honour and great respect which had so long attended
the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed in
her garden and greenhouse, where she had a curious
collection of exotic, as well as native, shrubs and flowers.
The library shared her attention. Besides making addi-
tions to it, she had a complete Catalogue arranged by
Mr. Upcott, of the London Institution.
This lady by her will returned the estate to the family,
devising it to John Evelyn, Esq., descended from George
Evelyn, the purchaser of the estate in 1579.
The following are epitaphs to the memory of the writer
of this Diary, and part of his family, interred in the
Dormitory adjoining Wotton Church.
For his Grandfather, who settled at Wotton, on an
alabaster monument, written by Dr. Comber, Master of
Trinity College, Cambridge, and afterwards Dean of
Durham :
D. 0. M. S.
Georgio Evelino, Arm. non minus
VitsB et Morum exemplo, quara dignitate
INTRODUCTION. SXXV
conspicuo, quern plenum annis (inoffensse
vitse decurso itinere, quale sibi opta-
verint Magni illi, qui inajiem strepitum
tranquillitati posthabendum putArunt)
Mors imniatura abstulit, namq ;
rebus omnibus, Deo omnia bone vertente,
affluens, quibus vita beata efficitur,
repetito non infelici delectu matrimo-
nio, Liberos ad filios 16 octoque
filias, pene octogenarius decessit senex :
Parenti charissimo, et bene merenti
Richardus Evelinas, filiorum natu minimus,
Monumentum cum carmine moerens
posuit, quod non tam Patris vivo hominum
ore victuri, quam proprioe Pietatis
testimonium esset.
Obiit 30 die Mail, An. Dom. 1603.
JEtatis suae 73.
On another alabaster monument, are the figures of a
man and his wife kneeling, and five children; below is
this inscription :
Epitaphium
vere generosi, et praenobilis Viri, D. Richardi
Evelini armigeri, in agro Surriensi, hic
subter in terr4 conditi.
Quem Pietas, Probitas, claris natalibus ortum,
Prolis amor dulcis, Vitaq. labe carens,
Religlonis opus, quera Vota Precesq; suorum,
Et morum niveus candor, aperta manus,
Reddebant olim cbarum patriseq; suisq;
Vertitur in cineres b^c Evelinus humo.
Lector, ne doleas, cum sis mortalis, abito,
Et sortis non sis immemor ipse tuse,
Obiit Quinquagenarius
corporis statu vegeto, vicesimo die Decembris anno
XXXVl INTRODUCTION.
Salutis liumanae
1640, Liberorum quiuq. Pater,
relictis quatuor superstitibus, tribus
scil. filiis cum
unica tantum filia.
Festinantes sequimur.
On another monument, fixed to the same wall :
To
the precious memory of
Ellen Evelyn,
the dearly beloved wife of Richard Evelyn, Esq.
a rare example of Piety, Loyalty, Prudence, and Charity,
a happy Mother of five Children,
George, John, Richard, Elizabeth, and Jane ;
who in the 37th year of her age,
the 22d of her marriage,
and the 1635th of Man's Redemption,
put on Immortality,
leaving her name as a monument of her perfections,
and her Perfections as a precedent for imitation.
Of her great worth to know, who seeketh more.
Must mount to Heaven, where she is gone before.
On a white marble, covering a tomb shaped like a coffin
raised about three feet above the floor, is inscribed :
Here lies the Body
of John Evelyn, Esq.
of this place, second son
of Richard Evelyn, Esq. ;
who having serv'd the Publick
in several employments, of which that
of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the
Reign of King James the 2d was most
honourable, and perpetuated his fame
by far more lasting monuments than
those of Stone or Brass, his learned
INTRODUCTION. . XXXVll :
and usefull Works, fell asleep tlie 27 day
of February 1705-6, being the 86 year
of his age, in full hope of a glorious
Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ.
Living in an age of extraordinary
Events and Revolutions, he learnt
(as himself asserted) this Truth,
which pursuant to his intention
is here declared —
That all is vanity which is not honest,
and that there is no solid wisdom
hut in real Piety.
Of five Sons and three Daughters
born to him from his most
vertuous and excellent Wife,
Mary, sole daughter and heiress
of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes
Court near Deptford in Kent,
onely one daughter, Susanna,
married to William Draper
Esq., of Adscomb in this
County, survived him ; the
two others dying in the
flower of their age, and
all the Sons very young ex-
cept one named John, who
deceased 24 March, 1698-9,
in the 45 year of his age,
leaving one son, John, and
one daughter, Elizabeth.
On anotlier monument at the head of, and like the
former :
Mary Evelyn,
the best Daughter, Wife,
and Mother,
the most accomplished of women,
beloved, esteemed, admired,
XXXVIU INTRODirCTION.
and regretted, by all who knew her,
is deposited in this stone coffin,
according to her own desire, as near
as could be to her dear Husband
John Evelyn,
with whom she lived almost
Threescore years,
and survived not quite three, dying
at London, the 9 of Feb. 1708-9,
in the 74th year of her age.
In the Churcli of St. Nicholas, Deptford, on the east-
wall, to the south of the altar, is a marble mural tablet,
with the following inscription to the two children of Mr.
Evelyn, whose early loss he has so feelingly lamented in
his Diary :
R. Evelyn. I. F.
Quiescit hoc sub marmore,
Unk quiescit quicquid est amabile,
Patres quod optent, aut quod orbi lugeant ;
Genas decentes non, ut ante, risus
Lepore condit amplius ;
Moruiu venustas, quanta paucis contigit,
Desideratur omnibus.
Linguae, Latina, GalHca,
Quas imbibit cum lacte materno, tacent.
. Tent4rat Artes, artiumque principiis
Pietatis elementa hauserat.
Libris inhsesit improbo labore
Ut sola mors divelleret.
Quod indoles, quod disciplina, quod labor
Possint, ab uuo disceres.
Puer stupendus, qualis hie esset senex
Si fata vitce submiuistrdssent iter !
Sed aliter est visum Deo :
Correptus ille febricuU levi jacet,
Jacent tot una spes Parentum !
INTRODUCTIOIf. XXXIX
Vixit Ann. V. M. V, III super D.
Elieu ! delicias breves.
Quicqnid placet mortale, non placet diu,
Quicquid placet mortale, ne placeat nimis.
Mart Evelyn,
eldest daughter of John Evelyn,
and Mary his wife, borne the last day of
September 1665, att Wootton in
the County of Surrey. A beautifuU
young woman, endowed with shining
Qualities both of body and mind, infinitly
pious, the delight of her Parents and Friends.
She dyed 17 March 1685 at the
age of 19 years, 5 months, 17 dayes,
regretted by all persons of worth
that knew her value.
A tablet adjoining the foregoing, is thus inscribed :
M. S.
Neere this place are deposited y* bodys
of Sir Richard Browne of Sayes-Court in Deptford, Knt ;
Of his wife Dame Joanna Vigorus of Langham in Essex,
deceased in Nov. 1618 aged 74 years.
This Richard was younger son of an ancient family of
Hitcham in Suffolk, seated afterwards at Horsly in Essex, who
being
Student in the Temple, was by Robert Dudley, the great Earle of
Leicester,
taken into the service of the Crowne when he went
Governor of the United Netherlands, and was afterwards
by Queene Elizabeth made Clearke of the Greene Cloth,
which honorable office he also continued \mder King James
untill the
time of his death, May 1604, aged 65 years :
Xl INTRODUCTION.
Of Christopher Browne, Esq., son and heire of Sir Richard, who
deceased in March 1645, aged 70 years ;
Of Thomasin his wife, da'^ of Benjamin Gonson of Much Bado
in Essex, Esq. whose grandfather William Gonson, and father
Benjamin,
were successively Treasurers of the Navy to King Hen. VIIL,
to K. Ed. VI.,
to Queene Mary, and Q. Elizabeth ; and died June 1638, aged
75 years ;
Of Sir Richard Browne, Knt. and Baronet, onely son of
Christopher ;
Of his wife Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Pretyman of
Dry-field in Glocester shire, who deceased vi Octob'
1652, aged 42 years.
This Sir Richard was Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to
K. Charles y^ First, and Cleark of the Council of his Ma*y, and to
K. Charles y^ Second, and (after several foraigne and honorable
employments)
continued Resident in the Court of France from K. Cha. the I.
and
from K. Char. II* to the French-Kings Lewes XIII. and
Lewes XIV. from
the years 1641 (the beginning of our un-natural civile-warr)
untill the happy
Re-stauration of K. Cha. y" IF 1660 ; deceased xii Feb. A"
1682-3 aged 78 y" ;
and (according to ancient custome) willed to be interred in this
place.
These all deceasing in the true Faith of Christ,
hope, through his merits, for a joyfull and blessed
Resurrection. X. A. P. D.
2 DIARY OF [noTTOM,
temperate, that I have heard he had never been surprised
by excess, being ascetic and sparing. His wisdom was
great, and his judgment most acute ; of solid discourse,
affable, humble, and in nothing affected; of a thriving,
neat, silent, and methodical genius ; discreetly severe, yet
liberal upon all just occasions, both to his children, to
strangers, and servants; a lover of hospitality, and, in
brief, of a singular and Christian moderation in all his
actions; not illiterate, nor obscure, as having continued
Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum, he served his
country as High Sheriff, being, as I take it, the last
dignified with that office for Sussex and Surrey together,
the same year, before their separation.* He was yet a
studious decliner of honours and titles; being already
in that esteem with his country, that they could have
added little to him besides their burthen. He was a
person of that rare conversation that, upon frequent
recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life
and discourse, I could never charge him with the least
passion, or inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about
£4000 per annum, well wooded, and ftdl of timber.
My mother^ s name was Eleanor, f sole daughter and
heiress of John Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and
honourable family (though now extinct) in Shropshire,
by his wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and well-known
house in Sussex. She was of proper personage, of a
brown complexion ; her eyes and hair of a lovely black ;
of constitution more inclined to a rehgious melancholy,
or pious sadness ; of a rare memory, and most exemplary
life ; for economy and prudence, esteemed one of the most
conspicuous in her country : which rendered her loss
much deplored both by those who knew, and such as
only heard of her.
Thus much, in brief, touching my parents ; nor was it
reasonable I should speak less of them to whom I owe
so much.
Tlie place of my birth was Wotton, in the parish of
Wotton, or Blackheath, in the county of Surrey, the then
* Formerly the two counties had, in gener&I, only one sheriff, though
sometimes distinct cues. lu 1637, each county had its sheriff, and so it
has continued ever since.
-\r She was bom 17th November, 1598, in Sussex, near to Lewes.
1620.] JOHN EVELYN. 3
mansion-house of my father, left him by my grand-
father, afterwards and now my eldest brother's. It is
situated in the most southern part of the shire; and,
though in a valley, yet really upon part of Leith Hill, one
of the most eminent in England for the prodigious pros-
pect to be seen from its summit,* though by few
observed ; from it may be discerned twelve or thirteen
counties, with part of the sea on the coast of Sussex,
in a serene day. The house is large and ancient, suitable
to those hospitable times, and so sweetly environed with
those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the
judgment of strangers as well as Englishmen, it may be
compared to one of the most tempting and pleasant seats
in the nation, and most tempting for a great person
and a wanton purse, to render it conspicuous. It has
rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water, in abundance.
The distance from London little more than twenty
miles,t and yet so securely placed, as if it were one
hundred ; three miles from Dorking, which serves it abun-
dantly with provisions as well of land as sea ; six from
Guildford, twelve from Kingston. J I will say nothing
of the air, because the pre-eminence is universally given
to Surrey, the soil being dry and sandy ; but I should
speak much of the gardens, fountains, and groves that
adorn it, were they not as generally known to be amongst
the most natural, and (till this later and universal luxury
of the whole nation, since abounding in such expenses)
the most magnificent that England afforded, and which
indeed gave one of the first examples to that elegancy,
since so much in vogue and followed, for the managing
of their Avaters, and other elegancies of that natiu-e.
Let me add, the contiguity of five or six manors, § the
patronage of the livings about it, and what Themistocles
pronounced for none of the least advantages — the good
neighbourhood: all which conspire here to render it an
honourable and handsome royalty, fit for the present
possessor, my worthy brother, and his noble lady, || whose
* 993 feet.
t Computed miles ; it is a little more than twenty-six measured miles.
t Eight, and fourteen.
§ Seven manors, two advowsons, and a chapel of ease.- '
II Lady Cotton, widow.
B 2
4 DIARY OP [woTTON,
constant liberality gives them title both to the place and
the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the
poet:
Nescio quA natale solum dulcedine cunctos
Ducit, et immemores non sinet esse sui.
I had given me the name of my grandfather, my
mother^s father, who, together with a sister of Sir Thomas
Evelyn of Long Ditton, and Mr. Comber, a near relation
of my mother, were my susceptors. The solemnity (yet
upon what accident I know not, unless some indisposition
in me) was performed in the dining-room by Parson
Higham, the present incumbent of the parish, according
to the forms prescribed by the then glorious Church of
England.*
I was now (in regard to my mother^s weakness, or
rather custom of persons of quality) put to nurse to one
Peter, a neighboiu^s wife and tenant, of a good, comely,
brown, wholesome complexion, and in a most sweet place
towards the hills, flanked with wood and refreshed with
streams j the affection to which kind of solitude I sucked
in with my very milk. It appears, by a note of my
father's, that I sucked till 17th January, 1622; or at least
I came not home before.
The very first thing that I can call to memory, and
from which time forward I began to obseri^e, was this
year (1623) my youngest brother being in his nurse's
arms, who being then' two years and nine days younger
than myself, was the last child of my dear parents.
1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments till near
four years of age, and then one Frier taught us at the
church-porch of Wotton; and I do perfectly remember
the great talk and stir about II Conde Gundamar, now
Ambassador from Spain (for near about this time was
the match of our Prince with the Infanta proposed), and
the effects of that comet, 1618, stUl working in the prodi-
gious revolutions now beginning in Europe, especially
in Germany, whose sad commotions sprang from the
Bohemians' defection from the Emperor Matthias ; upon
which quarrel the Swedes broke in, giving umbrage to
* I bad g^ren me two handsome pieces of very curiously wrought and gilt
plate.
1624-8.] JOHN EVELYN. 6
the rest of the princes, and the whole Christian world
cause to deplore it, as never since enjoying perfect tran-
quillity.
1625. I was this year (being the first of the reign of
King Charles) sent by my father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be
with my grandfather, Standsfield, with whom I passed my
childhood. This was the year in which the pestilence
was so epidemical, that there died in London 5000
a-week, and I well remember the strict watches and
examinations upon the ways as we passed; and I was
shortly after so dangerously sick of a fever, that (as I have
heard) the physicians despaired of me.
1626. My picture was drawn in oil by one Chanterell,
no iU painter.
1627. My grandfather, Standsfield, died this year, on
the 5th of February : I remember perfectly the solemnity
at his funeral. He was buried in the parish church of All
Souls, where my grandmother, his second wife, erected
him a pious monument. About this time, was the con-
secration of the Church of South Mailing, near Lewes,
by Dr. Field, Bishop of Oxford; one Mr. CoxhaU preached,
who was afterwards minister; the building whereof was
chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having the im-
propriation, gave 20/. a-year out of it to this churdh. I
afterwards sold the impropriation. I laid one of the
first stones at the building of the church.
It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn
my Latin rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a
Frenchman, in Lewes. I very well remember that
general muster previous to the Isle of Re^s expedition,
and that I was one day awakened in the morning with
the news of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that
wretch, Felton, after our disgrace before La Rochelle.
And I now took so extraordinary a fancy to drawing and
designing, that I could never after wean my inclinations
from it, to the expense of much precious time, which might
have been more advantageously employed. I was now
put to school to one Mr. Potts, in the Chff, at Lewes,from
whom, on the 7th of January, 1630, being the day after
Epiphany, I went to the free-school at Southover, near the
town, of which one Agnes Morley had been the foundress,
and now Edward Snatt was the master, under whom I
6 DIARY OF [ LEWES,
remained till I was sent to the University.* This year,
my grandmother (with whom I sojourned) being married
to one Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gentle-
man, we went from the Cliff to dwell at his house in
Southover. I do most perfectly remember the jubilee
which was universally expressed for the happy birth of
the Prince of Wales, 29th of May, now Charles the
Second, our most gracious Sovereign.
1681. There happened now an extraordinary dearth in
England, corn bearing an excessive price ; and, in imi-
tation of what I had seen my father do, I began to observe
matters more punctually, which I did use to set down in
a blank almanack. The Lord of Castlehaven's arraignment
for many shameful exorbitances was now all the talk, and
the birth of the Princess Mary, afterwards Princess of
Orange.
21st October, 1632. My eldest sister was married to
Edward Darcy, Esq., who little deserved so excellent a
person, a woman of so rare virtue. I was not present at
the nuptials ; but I was soon afterwards sent for into
Surrey, and my father would willingly have weaned me
from my fondness of my too indulgent grandmother,
intending to have placed me at Eton; but, not being
80 provident fom my own benefit, and unreasonably ter-
rified with the report of the severe discipline there, I was
sent back to Lewes : which perverseness of mine I have
since a thousand times deplored. This was the first time
that ever my parents had seen all their children together
in prosperity. While I was now trifling at home, I saw
London, where I lay one night only. The next day, I
dined at Beddington,t where I was much delighted with
the gardens and curiosities. Thence, we returned to the
Lady Darcy's, at Sutton, thence to Wotton ; and, on the
16th of August following, 1633, back to Lewes.
November 3rd, 1633. This year my father was ap-
pointed Sheriff, the last, as I think, who served in that
honourable office for Surrey and Sussex, before they were
disjoined. He had 116 servants in liveries, every one
* Long after, Mr. Evelyn paid great respect to this gentleman, as appears
by his letters.
■f The ancieBt and onee magnificent eeat of the noUe family of the
Carewg.
1633-4.] JOHN EVELYN. f
liveried in green satin doublets ; divers gentlemen and
persons of quality waited on him in the same garb and
habit, which at that time (when thirty or forty was the
usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteemed a great
matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my
father exceeded (who was one of the greatest dechners
of it) ; but because he could not refuse the civility of
his friends and relations, who voluntarily came themselves,
or sent in their servants. But my father was afterwards
most unjustly and spitefully molested by that jeering
judge, Eichardson,* for reprieving the execution of a
woman, to gratify my Lord of Lindsey, then Admiral; but
out of this he emerged with as much honour as trouble.
The king made this year his progress into Scotland, and
Duke James was born.
15th December, 1634. My dear sister, Darcy, departed
this life, being arrived to her 20th year of age ; in virtue
advanced beyond her years, or the merit of her husband,
the worst of men. She had been brought to bed the 2nd
of June before, but the infant died soon after her, the
24th of December; I was therefore sent for home the
second time, to celebrate the obsequies of my sister, who
was interred in a very honourable manner in our dormi-
tory joining to the parish church,t where now her monu-
ment stands.
1635. But my dear mother being now dangerously
sick, I was, on the 3rd of September following, sent for
to Wotton, whom I found so far spent, that all human
assistance failing, she in a most heavenly manner de-
parted this life upon the 29th of the same month, about
eight in the evening of Michaelmas-day. It was a maUg-
nant fever which took her away, about the 37th of her age,
and 22nd of her marriage, to our irreparable loss, and the
regret of all that knew her. Certain it is, that the visible
* He was made a Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1626, and of the
King's Bench in 1631. There is a monument for him in Westminster Abbey.
Fuller says lie hved too near the time to speak fully of him. He took on
him to issue an order against keeping wakes on Sundays, which Laud,
then Bishop of Bath and Wells, took up as an infringement of the rights of
bishops, and got him severely reprimanded at the Council-table. He was
owner of Starborough Castle, in Lingiield, in Surrey. — Manning and Bray's
Mistory of Surrey,-vol. ii. p. 345.
t Of Wotton. : ... .
^ DIARY OP [oxroBB,
cause of her indisposition proceeded from grief upon the
loss of her daughter, and the infant, that followed it >
and it is as certain, that when she perceived the peril
whereto its excess had engaged her, she strove to compose
herself and allay it ; but it was too late, and she was forced
to succumb. Therefore, summoning all her children then
living (I shall never forget it), she expressed herself in sl
manner so heavenly, with instructions so pious and
Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extra-
ordinary loss then imminent ; after which, embracing every
one of us, she gave to each a ring with her blessing, and
dismissed us. Then, taking my father by the hand, she
recommended us to his care; and, because she was ex-
tremely zealous for the education of my younger brother,
she requested my father that he might be sent with me
to Lewes ; and so, having importuned him that what he
designed to bestow on her funeral, he would rather dis-
pose among the poor, she laboured to compose herself
for the blessed change which she now expected. There
was not a servant in the house whom she did not
expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her
counsel : thus she continued to employ her intervals,
either instructing her relations, or preparing of herself.
Though her physicians. Dr. Meverell, Dr. Clement and
Dr. Rand, had given over all hopes of her recovery, and
Sir Sanders Duncombe had tried his celebrated and famous
powder, yet she was many days impairing, and endured
the sharpest conflicts of her sickness with admirable
patience and most Christian resignation, retaining both
her intellectuals and ardent affections for her dissolution,
to the very article of her departure. When near her dis-
solution, she laid her hand on every one of her children ;
and, taking solemn leave of my father, with elevated
heart and eyes, she quietly expired, and resigned her soul
to God. Thus ended that prudent and pious woman, in
the flower of her age, to the inconsolable affliction of her
husband, irreparable loss of her children, and universal
regret of aU that knew her. She was interred, as near as
might be, to her daughter, Darcy, the 3rd of October, at
night, but with no mean ceremony.
It was the 3rd of the ensuing November, after my
brother George was gone back to Oxford, ere I returned
1637.] JOHN EVELYN. Q
to Lewes, when I made way, according to instructions
received of my father, for my brother Richard, who was
sent the 12th after.
1636. This year being extremely dry, the pestilence
much increased in London, and divers parts of England.
13th February, 1637. I was especially admitted (and, as
I remember, my other brother) into the Middle Temple,
London, though absent, and as yet at school. There
were now large contributions to the distressed Palatinates.
The 10th of December my father sent a servant to
bring us necessaries, and the plague beginning now to
cease, on the 3rd of April, 1637, I left school, where, till
about the last year, I had been extremely remiss in my
studies j so as I went to the University rather out of
shame of abiding longer at school, than for any fitness,
as by sad experience I found ; which put me to re-learn
all that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily gained.
10th of May. I was admitted a Fellow-commoner of
Baliol CoUege, Oxford ; and, on the 29th, I was matricu-
lated in the vestry of St. Mary's, where I subscribed the
Articles, and took the oaths ; Dr. Baily, head of St. John's,
being vice-chancellor, afterwards bishop. It appears by
a letter of my father's, that he was upon treaty with one
Mr. Bathurst (afterwards Doctor and President), of
Trinity College, who should have been my tutor ; but, lest
my brother's tutor. Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in his life
than industrious to his pupils, should receive it as an
affront, and especially for that Fellow-commoners in Baliol
were no more exempt from exercise than the meanest
scholars there, my father sent me thither to one Mr.
George Bradshaw {nomen invisum ! yet the son of an excel-
lent father, beneficed in Surrey).* I ever thought mj
tutor had parts enough ; but, as his ambition made him
much suspected of the College, so his grudge to Dr.
Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterwards sup-
planted), took up so much of his time, that he seldom or
never had the opportunity to discharge his duty to his
scholars. This I perceiving, associated myself with one
Mr. James Thicknesse (then a young man of the foimda-
tion, afterwards a Fellow of the house), by whose learned
and friendly conversation I received great advantage. At
* Rector of Ockham.
10 DIAEY OF [oxford,
ray first arrival, Dr. Parkhurst was Master ; and, after his
decease. Dr. Lawrence, a chaplain of his Majesty's and
Margaret Professor, succeeded, an acute and learned per-
son; nor do I much reproach his severity, considering
that the extraordinary remissness of discipHne had (till
his coming) much detracted from the reputation of that
College.
There came in my time to the College one Nathaniel
Conopios, out of Greece, from Cyrill, the patriarch of
Constantinople, who, returning many years after, was made
(as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the first
I ever saw drink coffee ; which custom came not into
England till thirty years after.
After I was somewhat settled there in my formahties,
(for then was the University exceedingly regular, under
the exact discipline of William Laud, Archbishop of Can-
terbury, then Chancellor,) I added, as benefactor to the
library of the College, these books, — "e<r dono Johannis
Evelyni hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi
Evelyni, e com. Surria, armig^." —
Zanchii Opera, vols. 1, 2, 3.
Granado in Thomarh Aquinatem, vols. 1, 2, 8.
Novarini Electa Sacra, and Cresolii Anthologia Sacra;
authors, it seems, much desired by the students of
divinity there.
Upon the 2nd of July, being the first Sunday of the
month, I first received the blessed Sacrament of the Lord's
Supper, in the college chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a Fellow
of the house, preaching ; and at this time was the Church
of England in her greatest splendour, all things decent,
and becoming the Peace, and the persons that governed.
The most of the following week I spent in visiting the
Colleges, and several rarities of the University, which do
yery much affect young comers.
18th July. I accompanied my eldest brother, who
then quitted Oxford, into the country ; and, on the 9th of
August, went to visit my friends at Lewes, whence I re-
turned the 12th to Wotton. On the 17th of September,
I received the blessed Sacrament at Wotton church, and
£8rd of October went back to Oxford.
5th November. I received again the Holy Communion
in our college chapel, one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad
one), preaching.
1638.] JOHN EVELYN. H
December 9th. I offered at my first exercise in the Hall,
and answered my opponent ; and, upon the lltli following,
declaimed in the chapel before the Master, Fellows, and
Scholars, according to the custom. The 15th after, I first
of all opposed in the Hall.
Tlie Christmas ensuing, being at a Comedy which the
gentlemen of Exeter College presented to the Univer-
sity, and standing, for the better advantage of seeing,
upon a table in the Hall, which was near to another,
in the dark, being constrained by the extraordinary press
to quit my station, in leaping down to save myself I
dashed my right leg with such violence against the sharp
edge of the other board, as gave me a hurt which held
me in cure till almost Easter, and confined me to my
study.
1638. 22nd January. I would needs be admitted into
the dancing and vaulting schools ; of which late activity
one Stokes, the master, did afterwards set forth a pretty
book, which was published, with many witty elogies
before it.*
February 4th. One Mr. Wariner preached in our
chapel ; and, on the 25th, Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman ot
the Earl of Strafford; after which followed the blessed
Sacrament.
April 13th. My father ordered that I should begin to
manage my own expenses, which till then my tutor had
done ; at which I was much satisfied.
9 th July. I went home to visit my friends, and, on
the 26th, with my brother and sister to Lewes, where
we abode till the 31st ; and thence to one Mr. Michael's,
of Houghton, near Arundel, where we were very well
treated ; and, on the 2nd of August, to Portsmouth, and
thence, having surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity
in that blessed halcyon time in England), we passed
* It having now become extremely scarce, the title of it is here given :
" The Vaulting Master, or the Art of Vaulting ; reduced to a method com-
prized under certain rules. Illustrated by examples, and now primarily
set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Richard Davis, in Oxon, 1665.
A small oblong quarto, with the author's portrait prefixed, and a number of
plates beautifully engraved, (most probably by Glover,) representing feats
of activity on horseback, that appear extraordinary ones at this time of
day. (From the communication of James Bindley, Esq., a gentleman whose
collection of scarce and valuable books is perhaps hardly to be equalled.)
12 DIARY OP [LONDON,
into the Isle of Wight, to the house of my Lady Richards,
in a place called Yaverland; but we returned the foUoAving
day to Chichester, where, having viewed the city and fair
cathedral, we returned home.
About the beginning of September, I was so afflicted
with a quartan ague, that I could by no means get rid of
it till the December following. This was the fatal year
wherein the rebellious Scots opposed the King, upon the
pretence of the introduction of some new ceremonies
and the Book of Common Prayer, and madly began our
confusions, and their own destruction, too, as it proved in
event.
January 14th, 1639. I came back to Oxford, after my
tedious indisposition, and to the infinite loss of my time ;
and now I began to look upon the rudiments of music,
in which I afterwards arrived to some formal knowledge,
though to small perfection of hand, because I was so
frequently diverted with inclinations to newer trifles.
20th May. Accompanied with one Mr. J. Crafi'ord
(who afterwards being my fellow-traveller in Italy, there
changed his religion), I took a journey of pleasure to see
the Somersetshire baths, Bristol, Cirencester, Malmesbury,
Abingdon, and divers other towns of lesser note; and
returned the 25th.
8th October. I went back to Oxford.
14th December. According to injunctions from the
Heads of Colleges, I went (amongst the rest) to the
Confirmation in St. Mary's, where, after sermon, the
Bishop of Oxford laid his hands upon us, with the usual
form of benediction prescribed : but this, received (I fear)
for the more part out of curiosity, rather than with that
due preparation and advice which had been requisite,
could not be so effectual as otherwise that admirable and
useful institution might have been, and as I have since
deplored it.
1640, January 21st. Came my brother, Richard, from
school, to be my chamber-fellow at the University. He
was admitted the next day, and matriculated the 31st.
11th April. I went to London to see the solemnity of
his Majesty's riding through the city in state to the short
Parliament, which began the 13th following, — a very
glorious and magnificent sight, the King circled with his
1640.] JOHN EVELYN. 1'3
royal diadem and the affections of his people; but the day
after I returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, my
father's indisposition suffering great intervals, till April
27 th, when I was sent to London to be first resident at
the Middle Temple ; so as my being at the University, in
regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit to
me. Upon May the 5th following, was the Parliament
unhappily dissolved; and, on the 20th, I returned with
my brother, George, to Wotton, who, on the 28th of the
same month, was married at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell
(an heiress of an ancient Leicestershire family*), where
part of the nuptials was celebrated.
10th June. I repaired with my brother to the Term, to
go into our new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex-
court), being a very handsome apartment just over
against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high,
which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but
did not much contribute to the love of that impolished
study, to which (I suppose) my father had designed
me, when he paid 145/. to purchase our present hves,
and assignments afterwards.
London, and especially the Court, were at this period in
frequent disorders, and great insolences were committed
by the abused and too happy City; in particular, the
Bishop of Canterbury's Palace at Lambeth was assaulted
by a rude rabble from South wark, my Lord Chamber-
lain imprisoned, and many scandalous libels and invec-
tives scattered about the streets, to the reproach of
Government, and the fermentation of our since distrac-
tions : so that, upon the 25th of June, I was sent for to
Wotton, and the 27 th after, my father's indisposition
augmenting, by advice of the physicians, he repaired to
Bath.
7th July. My brother George and I, understanding the
peril my father was in upon a sudden attack of his in-
firmity, rode post from Guildford towards him, and found
him extraordinary weak ; yet so as that, continuing his
course, he held out till the 8th of September, when I
returned home with him in his litter.
• A daughter of Daniel Caldwell, Esq., by Mary, daughter of George
Duncomb, Esq., of Albury. She died 15th May, 1644, and he afterwards
married the widow of Sir John Cotton.
14 DIARY OP [lokdok,
15th October. I went to the Temple, it being Mi-
chaelmas Term.*
30tli. I saw his Majesty (coming from his northern
expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all
the marks of a happy peace, restored to the affections
of his people, being conducted through London with a
most splendid cavalcade ; and, on the 3rd November
following (a day never to be mentioned without a curse),
to that long ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the
beginning of all our sorrows for twenty years after, and
the period of the most happy monai'ch in the world i
Quis taliafando ! f
But my father being by this time entered into a dropsy,
an indisposition the most unsuspected, being a person so
exemplarily temperate, and of admirable regimen, hastened
me back to Wotton, December the 12th ; where, the 24th
following, between twelve and one o'clock at noon, departed
this life that excellent man and indulgent parent, retain-
ing his senses and piety to the last, which he most tenderly
expressed in blessing us, whom he nx)W left to the world
and the worst of times, whilst he was taken from the evil
to come.
1641. It was a sad and lugubrious beginning of the
year, when, on the 2nd of January, 1640-1, we at night
followed the mourning hearse to the church at Wotton;
when, after a sermon and funeral oration by the minister,
my father was interred near his formerly erected monu-
ment, and mingled with the ashes of our mother, his dear
wife. Thus we were bereft of both our parents in a
period when we most of all stood in need of their counsel
and assistance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, uncertain,
and very unwary inclination; but so it pleased God to
make trial of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest
and most prodigious hazard that ever the youth of England
saw ; and, if I did not amidst all this impeach my liberty
nor my virtue with the rest who made shipwreck of both,
it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than
the least providence or discretion of mine own, who now
* Tlie Term then bej^an in October.
f Notwithstanding this expression, it will afterwards appear, that Mr.
Evelyn by no means approved of arbitrary, or tyrannical measures.
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 15
thought of nothing but the pursuit of vanity, and the
confused imaginations of young men.
15th. I repaired to London to hear and see the famous
trial of the Earl of Strafford, Lord-Deputy of Ireland, who,
on the 22nd of March, had been summoned before both
Houses of Parliament, and now appeared in Westminster-
hall, which was prepared with scaffolds for the Lords and
Commons, who, together with the King, Queen, Prince,
and flower of the noblesse, were spectators and auditors of
the greatest malice and the greatest innocency that ever
met before so illustrious an assembly. It was Thomas
Earl of Arundel and Surrey, Earl Marshal of England,
who was made High Steward upon this occasion ; and the
sequel is too well known to need any notice of the event.
On the 27th, came over out of Holland the young
Prince of Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love
to his Majesty's eldest daughter, the now Princess Royal.
That evening, was celebrated the pompous funeral of
the Duke of Richmond, who was carried in efi&gy, with all
the ensigns of that illustrious family, in an open chariot,
in great solemnity, through London to Westminster
Abbey.
On the 12th of May, I beheld on Tower-hill the fatal
stroke which severed the wisest head in England from the
shoulders of the Earl of Strafford, whose crime coming
under the cognizance of no human law, or statute, a new
one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction.
With what reluctancy the King signed the execution,
he has sufficiently expressed; to which he imputes his
own unjust suffering — to such exorbitancy were things
arrived.
On the 24th, I returned to Wotton ; and, on the 28th of
June, I went to London with my sister Jane, and the day
after sat to one Vanderborcht for my picture in oil, at
Arundel-house, whose servant that excellent painter was,
brought out of Germany when the Earl returned from
Vienna (whither he was sent Ambassador-extraordinary,
with great pomp and charge, though without any effect,
through the artifice of the Jesuited Spaniard, who governed
all in that conjuncture). With Vanderborcht, the painter,
he brought over Winceslaus Hollar, the sculptor, who
engraved not only this unhappy Deputy's trial in West-
llg DIARY OP. [OIUTE8EH0,
minster-liall, but his decapitation ; as he did several other
historical things, then relating to the accidents happening
during the Rebellion in England, with great skill, besides
many cities, towns, and landscapes, not only of this nation,
but of foreign parts, and divers portraits of famous persons
then in being; and things designed from the best pieces
of the rare paintings and masters of which the Earl of
Arundel was possessor, purchased and collected in his
travels with incredible expense; so as, though Hollar's
were but etched in aqua-fortis, I account the collection to
be the most authentic and useful extant. Hollar was the
son of a gentleman near Prague, in Bohemia, and my very
good friend, perverted at last by the Jesuits at Antwerp to
change his religion ; a very honest, simple, well-meaning
man, who at last came over again into England, where he
died. We have the whole history of the king^s reign, from
his trial in Westminster-hall and before, to the restoration
of King Charles II., represented in several sculptures,
with that also of Archbishop Laud, by this indefatigable
artist, besides innumerable sculptures in the works of
Dugdale, Ashmole, and other historical and useful works.
I am the more particular upon this for the fruit of that
collection, which I wish I had entire.
This picture* I presented to my sister, being at her
request, on my resolution to absent myself from this ill
face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser
than myself, that the medal was reversing, and our cala-
mities but yet in their infancy; so that, on the 15th
of July, having procured a pass at the Custom-house,
where I repeated my oath of allegiance, I went from
London to Gravesend, accompanied with one Mr. Caryll,
a Surrey gentleman, and our servants, where we arrived
by six o'clock that evening, with a purpose to take the
first opportunity of a passage for Holland. But the
wind as yet not favourable, we had time to \iew the
Block-house of that town, which answered to another
over against it at Tilbury, famous for the rendezvous
of Queen Ehzabeth, in the year 1588, which we found
stored with twenty pieces of cannon, and other ammuni-
tion proportionable. On the 19th, we made a short excur-
sion to Rochester, and having seen the cathedral, went
• Hb own portrait.
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. J 7
•to Chatham to see the Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel
of burden lately built there, being for defence and orna-
ment, the richest that ever spread cloth before the wind.*
She carried an hundred brass cannon, and was 1200 tons;
a rare sailer, the work of the famous Phineas Pett, in-
ventor of the frigate-fashion of building, to this day
practised. But what is to be deplored as to this vessel is,
that it cost his Majesty the affections of his subjects,
perverted by the malcontent great ones, who took occasion
to quarrel for his having raised a very slight tax for the
building of this, and equipping the rest of the navy with-
out an act of Parhament ; though, by the suffrages of the
major part of the Judges, the King might legally do in
times of imminent danger, of which his Majesty was best
apprised. But this not satisfying a jealous party, it was
condemned as unprecedential, and not justifiable as to the
Royal prerogative; and, accordingly, the Judges were
removed out of their places, fined, and imprisoned.
We returned again this evening, and on the 21st em-
barked in a Dutch frigate, bound for Flushing, convoyed
and accompanied by five other stout vessels, whereof one
was a man-of-war. The next day, at noon, we landed at
Flushing.
Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,t which was
then before Genep,J ere the summer should be too far
spent, we went this evening from Flushing to Middleburg,
another fine town in this island, to De Vere, whence the
most ancient and illustrious Earls of Oxford derive their
family, who have spent so much blood in assisting the
state during their wars. From De Vere we passed over
many towns, houses, and ruins of demolished suburbs, &c.,
which have formerly been swallowed up by the sea; at
what time no less than eight of those islands had been
irrecoverably lost.
• Accidentally burnt at Chatham, in 1696.
+ Mr. Evelyn means by this expression, to be in time to witness the
siege, &c.
J On the Waal, — a place which, having been greatly strengthened by the
Cardinal Infante D. Fernando, in 1635, was at this time besieged by the
French and Dutch, There is a full account of the siege in the great work
of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary patience compiled materials
for the history of the United Provinces, during the greater part of the
seventeenth century. One of his brothers was mortally wounded at this siege.
VOL. I. C
18 DIARY OF [HAGUE,
The next day, we arrived at Dort, the first to\ni of
Holland, furnished with all German commodities, and
especially Rhenish wines and timber. It hath almost at
the extremity a very spacious and venerable church ; a
stately senate-house, wherein was holden that famous
synod against the Arminians in 1618, and in that hall
hangeth a picture of The Passion, an exceeding rare and
much-esteemed piece.
From Dort, being desirous to hasten towards the army,
I took waggon this afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we
were hurried in less than an hour, though it be ten miles
distant ; so furiously do these foremen drive. I went first
to visit the great church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the
public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They
showed us his house, or rather the mean cottage, wherein
he was bom, over which there are extant these lines, in
capital letters :
^DIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS
ARTIBUS, INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE.
The 26th, I passed by a straight and commodious river
through Delft to the Hague ; in which journey I observed
divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in sohtary huts on
the brink of the water, and permitted to ask the charity
of passengers, which is conveyed to them in a floating box
that they cast out.
Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the Queen of
Bohemia's Court, where I had the honour to kiss her
Majesty's hand, and several of the Princesses' her daugh-
ters. Prince Maurice was also there, newly come out of
Germany, and my Lord Pinch, not long before fled out
of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a
fasting-day with the Queen for the unfortunate death of
her husband, and the presence-chamber had been hung
with black velvet ever since his decease.
The 28th I went to Leyden ; and the 29th to Utredit,
being thirty Enghsh miles distant, (as they reckon by
hours). It was now Kermas, or a fair, in this town, the
streets swarming with boors and rudeness, so that early
the next morning, having visited the ancient Bishop's
court, and the two famous churches, I satisfied my curiosity
till my return, and better leism-e. We then came to
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. . 1X9
Hynen, where the Queen of Bohemia hath a neat and
•well-built palace^ or country-house, after the Itahan man-
ner, as I remember; and so, crossing the Rhine, upon
•which this •villa is situated, lodged that night in a coun-
tryman's house. The 31st to Nimeguen: and on the
2nd of August we arrived at the Leagure, where was then
the whole army encamped about Genep, a very strong
castle situated on the river Waal ; but, being taken four
or five days before, -we had only a sight of the demolitions.
The next Sunday •was the thanksgiving sermons per-
formed in Colonel Goring's regiment (eldest son of the since
Earl of Norwich) by Mr. Goffe, his chaplain (now turned
Roman, and father-confessor to the Queen-mother). The
evening was spent in firing cannon, and other expressions
of mihtary triumphs.
Now, according to the compliment, I was received a
volunteer in the company of Captain Apsley, of whose
Captain-lieutenant, Honywood, (Apsley being absent,) T
received many civilities.
8rd August, at night, we rode about the lines of circum-
vallation, the general being then in the field. The next
day, I was accommodated with a very spacious and com-
modious tent for my lodging, as before I was with a horse,
which I had at command, and a hut, which during the
excessive heats was a great convenience ; for the sun
piercing the canvass of the tent, it was during the day
tmsufferable, and at night not seldom infested with mists
and fog, which ascended from the river.
6th — . As the turn came about, we were ordered
to watch on a horn- work near our quarters, and trail a
pike, being the next morning reheved by a company of
French. This was our continual duty till the castle was
re-fortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured;
whence I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friars, not
far from our quarters, where we found both the chapel and
refectory full, crowded with the goods of such poor people
as at the approach of the army had fled with them thither
for sanctuary. On the day following, I went to view all
the trenches, approaches, and mines of the besiegers ; and,
in particular, I took special notice of the wheel-bridge,
which engine his Excellency had made to run over the
moat when they stormed the castle, as it is since described
c2
20 DIARY OF [ROTTERDAM,
(with all the other particulars of this siege) by the author
of " Hollandia Illustrata." The walls and ramparts of
earth, which a mine had broken and crumbled, were of
prodigious thickness.
Upon the 8th, I dined in the horse-quarters with Sir
Robert Stone and his lady, Sir William Stradling, antl
divers cavaUers, where there was very good cheer, but hot
service for a young drinker, as then I was ; so that being
pretty well satisfied with the confusion of armies and
sieges (if such that of the United Pro^dnces may be called,
where their quarters and encampments are so admirably
regular, and orders so exactly observed, as few cities, the
best governed in time of peace, exceed it for all con-
veniences), I took my leave of the Leagure and Camerades;
and, on the 12th of August, I embarked on the Waal, in
company with three grave divines, who entertained us a
great part of our passage with a long dispute concerning
the lawfulness of church-music. We now sailed by Teil,.
where we landed some of our freight, and about five
o'clock we touched at a pretty town named Bommell, that
had divers English in garrison. It stands upon Contribu-
tion-land, which subjects the environs to the Spanish
incursions. We sailed also by an exceeding strong fort
called Lovestein,* famous for the escape of the learned
Hugo Grotius, who, being in durance as a capital offender,
as was the unhappy Barneveldt, by the stratagem of his
lady, was conveyed in a trunk supposed to be filled vnth
books only. We lay at Gorcum, a very strong and con-
siderable frontier.
13th. We arrived late at Rotterdam, where was their
annual mart or fair, so furnished with pictures, (especially
landscapes and drolleries, as they call those clownish repre-
sentations,) that I was amazed. Some of these I bought,
and sent into England. The reason of this store of pictures,
and their cheapness, proceeds from their want of land to
employ their stock, so that it is an ordinary thing to find
a common farmer lay out two or three thousand pounds
in this commodity. Their houses are full of them, and
they vend them at their fairs to very great gains. Here I
first saw an elephant, who was extremely well disciplined
and obedient. It was a beast of a monstrous size, yet as
* The appellation of a well-known party in Holland.
i641.] JO&N EVELYN. 21
flexible and nimble in the joints, contrary to the vulgar
tradition, as could be imagined from so prodigious a bulk
and strange fabric; but I most of all admired the dexterity
and strength of its proboscis, on which it was able to sup-
port two or three men, and by which it took and reached
whatever was offered to it ; its teeth were but short, being
a female, and not old. I was also shown a pehcan, or ono-
cratulas of Pliny,with its large gullets, in which he kept his
reserve of fish : the plumage was white, legs red, flat, and
film-footed : likewise a cock with four legs, two rumps
and vents ; also a hen which had two large spurs growing
out of her sides, penetrating the feathers of her wings.
17th — . I passed again through Delft, and visited
the church in which was the monument of Prince William
of Nassau, — the first of the Williams, and saviour (as they
call him) of their liberty, which cost him his life by a
vile assassination. It is a piece of rare art, consisting of
several figures, as big as the life, in copper. There is in the
same place a magnificent tomb of his son and successor,
Maurice. The Senate-house hath a very stately portico,
supported with choice columns of black marble, as I
remember, of one entire stone. Within, there hangs a
weighty vessel of wood, not unlike a butter-churn, which
the adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one
time is to wear on her shoulders, her head peeping out at
the top only, and so led about the town, as a penance for
her incontinence. From hence, we went the next day to
Itvswick, a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange,
for nothing more remarkable than the delicious walks
planted with lime trees, and the modern paintings within.
19th — . We returned to the Hague, and went to
visit the Hoff, or Prince's Court, with the adjoining
gardens full of ornament, close walks, statues, marbles,
grots, fountains, and artificial music* There is to this
palace a stately hall, not much inferior to ours of West-
minster, hung round with colours and other trophies taken
from the Spaniards; and the sides below are furnished
with shops.f Next day (the 20th) I returned to Delft,
thence to Rotterdam, the Hague, and Leyden, where
* As at Enstone, in Oxfordshire ; see afterwards.
+ Westminster-hall used to be so in Term-time, and the sittLag of Par-
liament, in the beginning of the reign of George III.
2{J> DIARY OP [AMSTERDAM,
immediately I mounted a waggon, which that night, late
as it was, brought us to Haerlem. About seven in the
morning, after I came to Amsterdam, where being pro-
vided with a lodging, the first thing I went to see was a
Synagogue of the Jews (being Saturday), whose ceremo-
nies, ornaments, lamps, law, and schools, afforded matter
for my contemplation. The women were secluded from,
the men, being seated in galleries above, shut with lattices,
having their heads muffled with linen, after a fantastical
and somewhat extraordinary fashion ; the men, wearing a
large calico mantle, yellow coloured, over their hats, all
the while waving their bodies, whilst at their devotions..
From thence, I went to a place without the town, called
Overkirk, where they have a spacious field assigned them-
to bury their dead, full of sepulchres with Hebraic inscrip-
tions, some of them stately and costly. Looking through
one of these monuments, where the stones were disjointed,
I perceived divers books and papers lie about a corpse; for
it seems, when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of
his books with him. With the help of a stick, I raked out
several, written in Hebrew characters, but much impaired.
As we returned, we stepped in to see the Spin-house, a
kind of bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd women are
kept in discipHne and labour, but all neat. We were
showed an hospital for poor travellers and pilgrims, built
by Queen Elizabeth of England ; and another maintained
by the city.
The State or Senate-house of this town, if the design be
perfected, will be one of the most costly and magnificent
pieces of architecture in Europe, especially for the materials
and the carvings. In the Doole is painted, on a very large
table, the bust of Marie de Medicis, supported by four royal,
diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, who hath set his name
thereon, 1st September, 1638.
On Sunday, I heard an English sermon at the Presby-
terian congregation, where they had chalked upon a slate
the psalms that were to be sung, so that all the congre-
gation might see it without the bidding of a clerk. I was.
told, that after such an age no minister was permitted to
preach, but had his maintenance continued during life.
I purposely changed my lodgings, being desirous to
converse with the sectaries that swarmed in this city, out
1641.] • JOHN EVELYN. 23
of whose spawn came those almost innumerable broods in
England afterwards. It was at a Brownist^s house, where
we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension
with us my Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee.
Here I also found an English Carmelite, who was going
through Germany with an Irish gentleman. I now went
to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-
house, for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and
poor children, where they are taught several occupations.
The girls are so well brought up to housewifery, that men
of good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, fre-
quently take their wives from this hospital. Thence to the
Hasp-house, where the lusty knaves are compelled to work;
and the rasping of brasil and logwood for the dyers is very
hard labour. To the Dool-house, for madmen and fools.
But none did I so much admire, as an hospital for their
lame and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accom-
modations are very great, the building answerable; and,
indeed, for the like public charities the provisions are
admirable in this country, where, as no idle vagabonds are
suffered (as in England they are), there is hardly a child
of four or five years old, but they find some employment
for it.
It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse,
or Exchange, after their sermons were ended, to see the
Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon, in this
place of convention of merchants from all parts of the
world : the building is not comparable to that of London,
bmlt by that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in
one respect exceeding it, that vessels of considerable bur-
then ride at the very quay contiguous to it ; and indeed it
is by extraordinary industry that as well this city as gene-
rally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated with
graffs, cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand, that
nothing is more frequent, than to see a whole navy,
belonging to this mercantile people, riding at anchor
before their very doors; and yet their streets even, straight,
and well paved, the houses so uniform and planted with
lime trees, as nothing can be more beautiful.
The next day, we were entertained at a kind of tavern,
called the Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where,
in the upper rooms of the house, were divers pretty wateiv
24 DIARY OF [AMSTERDAM,
■works, rising 108 feet from the ground. Here were many
quaint devices, fountains, artificial music, noises of beasts,
and chirping of birds ; but what pleased me most was a
large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets,
furnished all with ordinary candles to appearance, out of
the wicks spouting out streams of water, instead of flames.
This seemed then and was a rarity, before the philosophy
of compressed air made it intelligible. There was like-
wise a cylinder that entertained the company with a
variety of chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of
porcelain dishes, suited to the tones and notes, without
cracking any of them. Many other water-works were
shown.
The Keiser^s, or Emperor's Graft, which is an ample
and long street, appearing like a city in a forest ; the lime
trees planted just before each house, and at the margin of
that goodly aqueduct so curiously wharfed with Klincard
brick, which likewise paves the streets, than which nothing
can be more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is
built and gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at
an immense charge, and fitted for the most busy concourse
of traffickers and people of commerce beyond any place, or
mart, in the world. Nor must I forget the port of entrance
into and issue of this town, composed of very magnificent
pieces of architecture, some of the ancient and best man-
ner ; as are divers churches.
The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular
manner and invention ; the chimes of bells are so rarely
managed, that being curious to know whether the motion
was from any engine, I went up to that of St. Nicholas,
where I found one who played all sorts of compositions
from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an
organ; for so were the hammers fastened with wires to
several keys put into a frame twenty feet below the bells,
upon which (by help of a wooden instrument, not much
unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck
on the keys and played to admiration: all this while,
through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly
sounding bells, and noise that his wooden gloves made, the
confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the
musician, or any that stood near him, to hear any thing
himself; yet, to those at a distance, and especially in the
1«41.] ' JOHN EVELYN. £5
streets^ the harmony and the time were the most exact and
agreeable.
The south church is richly paved with black and white
marble, — the west is a new fabric ; and generally all the
churches in Holland are furnished with organs, lamps, and
monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and impiety
of popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transpoi'ted
them in other places rather to act like madmen than
religious.
Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went amongst the book-
sellers, and visited the famous Hondius and Bleaw's shop,
to buy some maps, atlases, and other works of that kind.
At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells and
Indian curiosities ; and so, towards the end of August, I
returned again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in
length, straight as a line, and of competent breadth for
ships to sail by one another. They showed us a cottage
where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married
to her twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was
prohibited to marry in future ; yet it could not be proved
that she had ever made away with any of her husbands,
though the suspicion had brought her divers times to
trouble.
Haerlem is a very delicate town, and hath one of the
faii'est churches of the Gothic design I had ever seen.
There hang in the steeple, which is very high, two silver
bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in 'Egypt,
by an Earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they
are rung out every evening. In the nave, hang the
goodliest branches of brass for tapers that I have seen,
esteemed of great value for the curiosity of the work-
manship ; also a fair pair of organs, which I could not
find they made use of in diviae service, or so much as to
assist them in singing psalms, but only for show, and
to recreate the people before and after their devotions,
whilst the burgomasters were walking and conferring
about their affairs. Near the west window hang two
models of ships, completely equipped, in memory of that
invention of saws under their keels, with which they cut
through the chain of booms, which barred the port of
Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-market,
and made some inquiry about the printing-house, the
26 DIARY OF [leydek,
invention whereof is said to liave been in this town, I
returned to Ley den.
At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus,
built on a very steep artificial mount, cast up (as reported)
by Hengist the Saxon, on his return out of England,,
as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden inundations.
The churches are many and fair; in one of them lies
buried the learned and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, with-
out any extraordinary inscription, who, having left the
world a monument of his worth more lasting than mar-
ble, needed nothing more than his own name; wliich I
think is all engraven on his sepulchre. He left his libraiy
to this University.
28th . I went to see the college and schools,
which are nothing extraordinary, and was complimented
with a matricula by the maynificus Professor, who first in
Latin demanded of me where my lodging in the town was,
my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I addicted myself;
then, recording my answers in a book, he administered an
oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders
of the University whilst I stayed, and then delivered me
a ticket, by virtue whereof I was made excise-free; for
all which worthy privileges, and the pains of writing, he
accepted of a rix-dollar.
Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so
longed to see, as well as the no less famous printer,
Elzevir^s printing-house and shop, renowned for the
pohteness of the character and editions of what he has
published through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden,
well stored with exotic plants, if the catalogue presented
to me by the gardener be a faithful register.
But, amongst all the rarities of this place, I was much
pleased with a sight of their anatomy-school, theatre, and
repository adjoining, which is well furnished with natural
curiosities ; skeletons from the whale and elephant to the
fly and spider, which last is a very delicate piece of art;
to see how the bones (if I may so call them of so tender
an insect) could be separated from the mucilaginous parts
of that minute animal. Amongst a great variety of other
things, I was shown the knife newly taken out pf a
jlrunken Dutchman's guts, by an incision in his side, after
it had slipped from his fingers into his stomach. The
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 27
pictures of the chirurgeon and his patient, both Hving,
were there.
There is without the town a fair Mall, curiously planted.
K/eturning to my lodging, I was shewed the statue, cut
in stone, of the happy monk, whom they report to have
been the first inventor of typography, set over the door;
but this is much controverted by others who strive for
the glory of it, besides John Guttemburgh.
I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew, who
had married an apostate Kentish woman. I asked him.
divers questions; he told me, amongst other things, that
the World should never end, that our souls transmigrated,
and that even those of the most holy persons did penance
in the bodies of brutes after death, — and so he interpreted
the banishment and savage life of Nebuchadnezzar ; that
all the Jews should rise again, and be led to Jerusalem ;
that the Romans only were the occasion of our Saviour^s
death, whom he affirmed (as the Turks do) to be a great
prophet, but not the Messiah. He shewed me several
books of their devotion, which he had translated into
English, for the instruction of his wife; he told me that
when the Messiah came, all the ships, barks, and vessels
of Holland should, by the power of certain strange whirl-
winds, be loosed from their anchors, and transported in a
moment to all the desolate ports and havens throughout
the world, wherever the dispersion was, to convey their
brethren and tribes to the Holy City; with other such
like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow, but would by
no means handle any money (for something I purchased
of him), it being Saturday ; but desired me to leave it in
the window, meaning to receive it on Sunday morning.
1st September. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and
two days after back to the Hague, to bespeak a suit of
horseman's armour, which I caused to be made to fit me.
I now rode out of town to see the monument of the woman,
pretended to have been a Countess of Holland, reported
to have had as many children at one birth, as there are
days in the year. The basins were hung up in which they
were baptized, together with a large description of the
matter-of-fact in a frame of carved work, in the church of
Lysdun, a desolate place. As I returned, I diverted to
see one of the prince's Palaces, called the Hoff Van
2%' DIARY OF [dort,
Hounslers Dyck, a very fair cloistered and quadrangular
building. The gallery is prettily painted with several
huntings^ and at one end a Gordian knot, with rustical
instruments so artificially represented, as to deceive an
accurate eye to distinguish it from actual rehevo. The
ceiling of the staircase is painted with the Rape of Gany-
mede, and other pendent figures, the work of F. Coven-
berg, of whose hand I bought an excellent drollery, which
I afterwards parted with to my brother George of Wotton,
where it now hangs.* To this palace join a fair garden
and park, curiously planted with limes.
8th. Returned to Rotterdam, through Delftshaven and
Sedan, -where were at that time Colonel Goring's winter-
quarters. This town has heretofore been very much
talked of for witches.
10th. I took waggon for Dort, to be present at the re-
ception of the Queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager
of France, widow of Henry the Great, and mother to the
French King, Louis XIII. and the Queen of England,
whence she newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the various
fortune of her life. From this city, she designed for
Cologne, conducted by the Earl of Arundel and the Herr
Van Bredrod. At this interview, I saw the Princess of
Orange, and the lady her daughter, afterwards married to
the House of Brandenburgh. There was Httle remarkable
in this reception befitting the greatness of her person;
but an universal discontent, which accompanied that
unlucky woman wherever she went.
12th. I went towards Bois-le-Duc, where we arrived on
the 16th, at the time when the new citadel was advancing
with innumerable hands, and incomparable inventions for
draining off the waters out of the fens and morasses about
it, being by buckets, mills, cochleas, pumps, and the like ;
in which the Hollanders are the most expert in Europe.
Here were now sixteen companies and nine troops of
horse. They were also cutting a new river, to pass from
the town to a castle not far from it. Here we split our
skiff, falling foul upon another through negligence of the
master, who was fain to run aground, to our no little
hazard. At our arrival, a soldier conveyed us to the
* It is still there. .It ),> -vr., , ,>
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. :^9
Governor, where our names were taken, and our persons
examined very strictly.
17th. I was permitted to walk the roimd and view the
works, and to visit a convent of religious women of the
order of St. Clara, who by the capitulation were allowed
to enjoy their monastery and maintenance undisturbed, at
the surrender of the town twelve years since, where we
had a collation and very civil entertainment. They had
a neat chapel, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleves,
their founder, lies inhumed under a plate of brass.
Within the cloister is a garden, and in the middle of it
an overgrown lime-tree, out of whose stem, near the
root, issue five upright and exceeding tall suckers, or
bolls, the hke whereof for evenness and height I had not
observed.
The chief church of this city is curiously carved within
and without, furnished with a pair of organs, and a most
magnificent font of copper.
18th. I went to see that most impregnable town and
fort of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one
Colonel Crombe, the Keutenant-govemor, who would needs
make me accept the honour of being captain of the watch,
and to give the word this night. The fortification is very
irregular, but esteemed one of the most considerable for
strength and situation in the Netherlands. We departed
towards Gorcum. Here Sir Kenelm Digby, travelling
towards Cologne, met us.
The next morning, the 19th, we arrived at Dort, passing
by the Decoys, where they catch innumerable quantities
of fowl. ,
22nd. I went again to Rotterdam to receive a pass
which I expected from Brussels, secirring me through
Brabant and Flanders, designing to go into England
through those countries. The Cardinal Infante, brother
to the king of Spain, was then governor. By this pass,
having obtained another from the Prince of Orange, upon
the 24;th of September I departed through Dort ; but met
with very bad tempestuous weather, being several times
driven back, and obliged to lie at anchor off Keele, other
vessels lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and
26th we made other essays ; but were again repulsed to the
harbpw, whei^e lay ^jL&ty vessels waiting to sail.^But, on
i^ DIARY OP [bergen-op-zoom,
the 27th we, impatient of the time and inhospitableness of
the place, sailed again with a contrary and impetuous wind
and a terrible sea, in great jeopardy ; for we had much
ado to keep ourselves above water, the billows breaking
desperately on our vessel : we were driven into William-
stadt, a place garrisoned by the English, where the Go-
vernor had a fair house. The works, and especially the
counterscarp, are curiously hedged with quick, and planted
with a stately row of limes on the rampart. The church
is of a round structure, with a cupola, and the town
belongs entirely to the Prince of Orange, as does that of
Breda, and some other places.
28th. Failing of an appointment, I was constrained to
return to Dort for a bill of exchange ; but it was the 1st
of October ere I could get back. At Keele, I numbered
141 vessels, who durst not yet venture out ; but, animated
by the master of a stout barque, after a small encounter
of weather, we arrived by four that evening at Steen-
bergen. In the passage we sailed over a sea called the
Plaats, an exceeding dangerous water, by reason of two
contrary tides which meet there very impetuously.
Here, because of the many shelves, we were forced to
tide it along the Channel ; but, ere we could gain the
place, the ebb was so far spent, that we were compelled
to foot it at least two long miles, through a most pelting
shower of rain.
2nd October. With a gentleman of the Rhyngraves,
I went in a cart, or tumbrel (for it was no better ; no other
accommodation could be procured) of two wheels and
one horse, to Bergen-op-Zoona, meeting by the way divers
parties of his Highness's army now retiring towards their
winter quarters ; the convoy skiffs riding by thousands
along the harbour. The fort was heretofore built by the
English.
The next morning, I embarked for LUlo, having refused
a eoHToy of horse which was offered me. The tide being
against us, we landed short of the fort on the beach, where
we marched half leg deep in mud, ere we could gain the
dyke, which being five or six miles from Lillo, we were
forced to walk on foot very wet and discomposed ; and
then entering a boat we passed the ferry, and came to
the castle. Being taken before the Governor, he demanded
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 31
my pass, to which he set his hand, and asked t\ro rix-
dollars for a fee, which methought appeared very exorbi-
tant in a soldier of his quality. I told him that I had
already purchased my pass of the commissaries at Rotter-
dam ; at which, in a great fury, snatching the paper out of my
hand, he flung it scornfully under the table, and bade me
try whether I coiild get to Antwerp without his permis-
sion ; but, I had no sooner given him the dollars, than he
returned the passport surlily enough, and made me pay
fourteen Dutch shillings to the cantone, or searcher,
for my contempt, which I was glad to do for fear of fur-
ther trouble, should he have discovered my Spanish pass,
in which the States were therein treated by the name of
rebels. Besides all these exactions, I gave the commissary
six shillings, to the soldiers something, and, ere perfectly
clear of this frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of-war,
who lay blocking up the river betwixt Lillo and the
opposite sconce called Lifkinshoeck.
4th. We sailed by several Spanish forts, out of one of
•which, St. Mary^s port, came a Don onboard us, to whom
I showed my Spanish pass, which he signed, and civilly
dismissed us. Hence, sailing by another man-of-war, to
which we lowered our topsails, we at length arrived at
Antwerp.
The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient.
I lost little time ; but, with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner,
our conductor, we visited divers churches, colleges, and
monasteries. The Church of the Jesuits is most sump-
tuous and magnificent; a glorious fabric without and
within, wholly incrusted with marble, inlaid and polished
into divers representations of histories, landscapes, and
flowers. On the high altar is placed the statue of the
Blessed "Virgin and our Saviour in white marble, ■mih
a boss in the girdle set mth very fair and rich sap-
phires, and divers other stones of price. The choir is a
glorious piece of architecture ; the pulpit supported by
four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and rare
pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive
tables and relics. Hence, to the Vrou Kirk, or N6tre
Dame of Antwerp: it is a very venerable fabric, built
after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, which I
ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent ;
32 DIARY OP [ANTWERP,
which, happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly
bright, and darted his rays without any interruption,
afforded so bright a reflection to us who were above, and
had a full prospect of both land and water about it, that I
was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of
some such substance as this earthly globe. Perceiving all
the subjacent country, at so small an horizontal distance,
to repercuss such a light as I could hardly look against,
save where the river and other large water within our view,
appeared of a more dark and uniform colour, resembling
those spots in the moon supposed to be seas there, according
to Hevelius, and as they appear in our late telescopes.
I numbered in this church thirty privileged altars, that of
St. Sebastian adorned with a painting of his martyrdom.
We went to see the Jerusalem Church, afiSrmed to have
been founded by one who, upon divers great wagers,
passed to and fro between that city and Antwerp on foot,
by which he procured large sums of money, which he be-
stowed on this pious structure. Hence, to St. Mary's
Chapel, where I had some conference wdth two Enghsh
Jesuits, confessors to Colonel Jaye's regiment. These fathers
conducted us to the Cloister of Nuns, where we heard a
Dutch sermon upon the exposure of the Host. The Senate-
house of this city is a very spacious and magnificent
building.
5th. I visited the Jesuits' School, which, for the fame of
their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided
into four classes, with several inscriptions over each : as,
first. Ad majorem Dei gloriam ; over the second, Princeps
diligenticB ; the third, Imperator Byzantiorum ; over the
fourth and uppermost, Imperator Romanorum. Under
these, the scholars and pupils had their places, or forms,
with titles and priority according to their proficiency.
Their dormitory and lodgings above were exceedingly
neat. They have a prison for the offenders and less
diligent ; and, in an ample court, to recreate themselves
in, is an aviary, and a yard where eagles, vultures, foxes,
monkeys, and other animals are kept, to divert the boys
withal at their hours of remission. To this school join the
music and mathematical schools, and lastly a pretty, neat
chapel. The great street is built after the Italian mode,
in the middle whereof is erected a glorious crucifix of
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 33
white and black marble, greater than the life. This is a
very fair and noble street, clean, well paved, and sweet to
admiration.
The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Com-
pany, is a stately palace, adorned with more than 300
windows. From hence walking into the Gun-garden, I
was allowed to see as much of the citadel as is per-
mitted to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern
fortification, accommodated with lodgments for the sol-
diers and magazines. The grafi's, ramparts, and plat-
forms are stupendous. Returning by the shop of Plantine,
I bought some books, for the namesake only of that famous
printer.
But there was nothing about this city which more
ravished me than those delicious shades and walks of
stately trees, which render the fortified works of the town
one of the sweetest places in Europe ; nor did I ever
observe a more quiet, clean, elegantly built, and civil
place, than this magnificent and famous city of Antwerp.
In the evening, I was invited to Signor Duerte's, a Portu-
guese by nation, an exceeding rich merchant, whose palace
I found to be furnished hke a prince's. His three daughters
entertained us with rare music, vocal and instrumental,
which was finished with a handsome collation. I took
leave of the ladies and of sweet Antwerp, as late as it was,
embarking for Brussels on the Scheldt in a vessel, which
delivered us to a second boat (in another river) drawn or
towed by horses. In this passage, we frequently changed
our barge, by reason of the bridges thwarting our course.
Here I observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels
and floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as
few houses on land enjoyed better accommodation, stored
with all sorts of utensils, neat chambers, a pretty parlour,
and kept so sweet, that nothing could be more refreshing.
The rivers on which they are drawn are very clear and
still waters, and pass through a most pleasant country on
both the banks. We had in our boat a very good ordinary,
and excellent company. The cut is straight as a line for
twenty English miles. What I much admired was, near
the midway, another artificial river, which intersects this
at right angles, but on an eminence of ground, and is
carried in an aqueduct of stone so far above the other, as
VOL. I. D
84 DIARY OP [BRUSSELS,
that the waters neither mingle, nor hinder one another's
passage.*
We came to a town called Villefrow, where all the
passengers went on shore to wash at a fountain issuing
out of a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the
margin of this long tract, are abundance of shrines and
images, defended from the injuries of the weather by
niches of stone wherein they are placed.
7th. We arrived at Brussels at nine in the morning.
The Stadt-house, near the market-place, is, for the carving
in freestone, a most laborious and finished piece, well worthy
observation. The flesh-shambles are also built of stone.
I was pleased with certain small engines, by which a girl,
or boy, was able to draw up, or let down, great bridges,
which in divers parts of this city crossed the channel for
the benefit of passengers. The walls of this town are very
entire, and full of towers at competent distances. The
cathedral is built upon a very high and exceeding steep
ascent, to which we mounted by fair steps of stone. Hence
I walked to a convent of English Nuns, with whom I sat
discoursing most part of the afternoon.
8th. Being the morning I came away, I went to see
the Prince's Court, an ancient, confused building, not
much unlike the Hofft, at the Hague : there is here like-
wise a very large Hall, where they vend all sorts of wares.
Through this we passed by the chapel, which is indeed
rarely arched, and in the middle of it was the hearse, or
catafalco, of the late Archduchess, the wise and pious Clara
Eugenia. Out of this we were conducted to the lodgings,
tapestried with incomparable arras, and adorned with
many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young Breugel,
Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the late
actions in the Netherlands.
By an accident, we could not see the library. There is
a fair terrace which looks to the vineyard, in which, on
pedestals, are fixed the statues of all the Spanish kings of
the house of Austria. The opposite walls are painted by
Bubens, being an history of the late tumults in Belgia :
in the last piece, the Archduchess shuts a great pair of
gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, armed, and in
a menacing posture ; which, with that other of the Infanta
• As at the Duke of Bridgewater's canal, in Lancashire.
1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 35
taking leave of Don Philip the Fourth, is a most incompa-
rable table.
From hence, we walked into the park, which for being
entirely within the walls of the city is particularly
remarkable; nor is it less pleasant than if in the most
solitary recesses ; so naturally is it furnished with what-
ever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-
hke. Here is a stately heronry, divers springs of water,
artificial cascades, rocks, grots, one whereof is composed
of the extravagant roots of trees cunningly built and
hung together with wires. In this park are both fallow
and red deer.
From hence, we were led into the Menage, and out of
that into a most sweet and dehcious garden, where was
another grot of more neat and costly materials, full of
noble statues, and entertaining us with artificial music ;
but the hedge of water, in form of lattice-work, which the
fountaineer caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees,
exceedingly pleased and surprised me ; for thus with a
pervious wall, or rather a palisade hedge of water, was the
whole parterre environed.
There is likewise a fair aviary ; and in the court next
it are kept divers sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowl,
as eagles, cranes, storks, bustards, pheasants of several
kinds, and a duck having four wings. In another division
of the same close are rabbits of an almost perfect yellow
colour.
There was no Court now in the palace, the Infante Car-
dinal, who was the governor of Flanders, being dead but
newly, and every one in deep mourning.
At near eleven o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's
agent. Sir Henry De Vic, who very courteously received
me, and accommodated me with a coach and six horses,
which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, where it was to
meet my Lord of Arundel, Earl Marshal of England, who
had requested me when I was at Antwerp to send it for
him, if I went not thither myself.
Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad Court, yet full
of gallant persons, (for in this small city, the acquaintance
being universal, ladies and gentlemen, I perceived, had
great diversions and frequent meetings,) I hasted towards
Ghent. On the way, 1 met with divers little waggons,
D 2
36 DIARY OF [GHENT,
prettily contrived and full of peddling merchandises, dravm
by mastiff-dogs, harnessed completely like so many coach-
horses ; in some four, in others six, as in Brussels itself I
had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as I remember, four
dogs draw five lusty children in a chariot : the master
commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares
about the streets. After passing through Ouse, by six in
the evening, I arrived at Ghent. This is a city of so great
a circumference, that it is reported to be seven leagues
round ; but there is not half of it now built, much of it
remaining in fields and desolate pastures even within the
walls, which have strong gates towards the west, and two
fair churches.
Here I beheld the Palace wherein John of Gaunt and
Charles V. were bom ; whose statue stands in the market-
place, upon a high pillar, with his sword drawn, to which
(as I was told) the magistrates and burghers were wont to
repair upon a certain day every year with ropes about
their necks, in token of submission and penance for an
old rebellion of theirs ; but now the hemp is changed into
a blue ribbon. Here is planted the basilisco, or great
gun, so much talked of. The Lys and the Scheldt meet-
ing in this vast city, divide it into twenty-six islands,
which are united by many bridges, somewhat resembling
Venice. This night I supped with the Abbot of Andoyne,
a pleasant and courteous priest.
■ I passed by boat to Bruges, taking in at a
redoubt a convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the
other side of the river, being Contribution-land, was sub-
ject to the inroads and depredations of the bordering
States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis
Spinola, and is in my judgment a wonderful piece of
labour, and a worthy public work, being in some places
forced through the main rock, to an incredible depth, for
thirty miles. At the end of each mile, is built a small
redoubt, which communicates a line to the next, and so
the whole way, from whence we received many volleys of
shot, in compliment to my Lord Marshal, who was in our
vessel, a passenger with us. At five that evening, we were
met by the magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convey
my Lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained
that night.
164].] JOHN EVELYN. 37
The morning after we went to see the Stadt house and
adjoining aqueduct, the church, and. market-place, where
we saw cheeses and butter piled up in heaps; also the
fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large.
The 9th we arrived, at Ostend by a straight and artificial
river. Here, with leave of the captain of the watch, I was
carried to survey the river and harbour, with fortifications
on one side thereof: the east and south are mud and
earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately stood a
memorable siege three years, three months, three weeks,
and three days. I went to see the church of St. Peter,
and the cloisters of the Franciscans.
10th. I went by waggon, accompanied with a jovial
commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all on the
sea-sands. On our arrival, we first viewed the court of
guards, the works, the town-house, and the new church ;
the latter is very beautiful within ; and another, wherein
they showed us an excellent piece of Our Saviour's bearing
the Cross. The harbour, in two channels, coming up to
the town, was choked vrith a multitude of prizes.
From hence, the next day, I marched three, English
miles towards the packet-boat, being a pretty frigate of
six guns, which embarked us for England about three in
the afternoon.
At our going ofi', the fort, against which our pinnace
anchored, saluted my Lord Marshal with twelve gi'eat
guns, which we answered with three. Not "having the
wind favourable, we anchored that night before Calais.
About midnight, we weighed ; and, at four in the morning,
though not far from Dover, we could not make the pier
till four that afternoon, the wind proving contrary and
driving us westward ; but at last we got on shore, October
the 12th.
From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury.
Here I visited the cathedral, then in great splendour,
those famous windows being entire, since demolished by
the fanatics. The next morning, by Sittingboume, I came
to Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a hght-
horseman (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide
as far as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little
refreshed ourselves at the College, (for by reason of the
contagion then in London we balked the inns,) we came
38 DIARY OP [LONDON,
to London Hnding at Arundel-stairs. Here I took leave
of his Lo d' p, and retired to my lodgings in the Middle
Temple, being about two in the morning, the 14th of
October.
16th. I went to see my brother, at Wotton. On the
31st of that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion,
which broke out on the 23rd) I was one and twenty years
of age.
7th November. After receiving the Sacrament at "Wotton
church, I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury.
23rd. I returned to London; and, on the 25th, saw his
Majesty ride through the City after his coming out of
Scotland, and a Peace proclaimed, with great acclama-
tions and joy of the giddy people.
15th December. I was elected one of the Comptrollers of
the Middle Temple-revellers, as the fashion of the yoiuig
students and gentlemen was, the Christmas being kept
this year with great solemnity; but, being desirous to
pass it in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of
ofl&ce, and went with my brother, Richard, to Wotton.
10th January, 1642. I gave a visit to my cousin Hatton
of Ditton.
19th. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th March,
studying a Kttle, but dancing and fooHng more.
3rd October. To Chichester, and hence the next day to
see the siege of Portsmouth; for now was that bloody
difference between the King and Parhament broken out,
which ended in the fatal tragedy so many many years after.
It was on the day of its being rendered to Sir Wilham
Waller ; which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave
of Colonel Goring, the governor, now embarking for
France. This day was fought that signal battle at Edge-
hill. Thence I went to Southampton and Winchester,
where I visited the castle, school, church, and King
Arthur's Round Table, but especially the church and its
Saxon kings' monuments, which I esteemed a worthy
antiquity.
12th November was the battle of Brentford, surprisingly
fought, and to the great consternation of the City, had
his Majesty (as it was believed he would) pursued his
advantage. I came in with my horse and arms just at
the retreat; but was not permitted to stay longer than
1642-3.] JOHN EVELYN. 39
the 15th by reason of the army marching to Gloucester;
which would have left both me and my brothers exposed
to ruin, without any advantage to his Majesty.
7 th December. I went from Wotton to London, to see
the so much celebrated hne of communication, and on the
1 0th returned to Wotton, nobody knowing of my having
been in his Majesty's army.
1643. 10th March. I went to Hartingford-berry, to
visit my cousin, Keightly.
11th. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at
Hatfield, where the most considerable rarity, besides the
house (inferior to few then in England for its architec-
ture,) were the garden and vineyard, rarely well watered
and planted. They also showed us the picture of Secre-
tary Cecil, in mosaic work, very well done by some Italian
hand.
I must not forget what amazed us exceedingly in the
night before ; \'iz. a shining cloud in the air, in shape
resembling a sword, the point reaching to the north j it
was as bright as the moon, the rest of the sky being very
serene. It began about eleven at night, and vanished not
till above one, being seen by all the south of England.
I made many journeys to and from London.
April the 15th. To Hatfield, and near the town of
Hertford I went to see Sir J. Harrison's house new built.*
Returning to London, I called to see his Majesty's house
and gardens at Theobald's, since demohshed by the
rebels.
2nd May. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw
the furious and zealous people demohsh that stately Cross
in Cheapside.
On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the
•confusion that threatened us. Resolving to possess myself
in some quiet, if it might be, in a time of so great jealousy,
I built by my brother's permission a study, made a fish-
pond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements
at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving
them to those waterworks and gardens which afterwards
succeeded them, and became at that time the most famous
of England.
, * Now called Ball's Park, belonging to the present Marquis Townsend.
40 DIARY OF [boulognk,
12 th July. I sent my black menage horse and furniture
with a friend to his Majesty, then at Oxford.
23rd. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself;
but, finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhand-
some things, and which had been a great cause of my
perpetual motions hitherto between Wotton and London,
October the 2nd, I obtained a license of his Majesty, dated
at Oxford, and signed by the King, to travel again.
6th November. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir
Ralph Whitfield's, at Blechingley, (whither both my brothers
had conducted me,) I arrived at London on the 7th, and
two days after took boat at the Tower- wharf, which carried
me as far as Sittingboume, though not without danger, I
being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm ;
but it pleased God that we got in before the peril was
considerable. From thence, I went by post to Dover,
accompanied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very dear friend
of mine.*
11th. Having a reasonable good passage, though the
weather was snowy and untoward enough, we came before
Calais, where, as we went on shore, mistaking the tide,
our shallop struck on the sands, with no little danger;
but at length we got oflF.
Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place,
in the old castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The
haven consists of a long bank of sand, lying opposite to it.
The market-place and the church are remarkable things,
besides those relics of our former dominion there. I
remember there were engraven in stone upon the front of
an ancient dwelling which was showed us, these words in
English, " God save the King," together with the name
of the architect and date. The walls of the town are sub-
stantial ; but the situation towards the land is not pleasant,
by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it.
12th. After dinner, we took horse with the Mes-
sagere, hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night;
but there fell so great a snow, accompanied with hail, rain,
and sudden darkness, that we had much ado to gain the
next village ; and in this passage, being to cross a valley
by a causeway and a bridge built over a small river, the
* Tlie gentleman he has ah^ady mentioned as so much assisting him. in
his studies at Oxford.
1643.] JOHN EVELYN. 41
rain that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for
near a quarter of a mile, my horse slipping had almost
been the occasion of my perishing. We none of us went
to bed ; for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in the
villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by
morning, between the fire and the fresh straw. The next
day early, we arrived at Boulogne.
This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high
rock, or downs ; the other, called the lower town, is yet
with a great declivity towards the sea; both of them
defended by a strong castle, which stands on a notable
eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet
but an inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII. in the siege
of this place is said to have used those great leathern
guns, which I have since beheld in the Tower of London,
inscribed Non Marte opus est, cui non deficit Mercurius ;
if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert
doubts.*
The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish}
surprising us, we came to Montreuil, built on the summit
of a most conspicuous hill, environed with fair and ample
meadows ; but all the suburbs had been from time to time
ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads.
This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches ; the
walls about the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of
masonry. The church is more glorious without than
within : the market-place large : but the inhabitants are
miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville,
having passed all this way in continual expectation of the
volunteers, as they call them. This town affords a good
aspect towards the hill from whence we descended ; nor
does it deceive us ; for it is handsomely built, and has
many pleasant and useful streams passing through it, the
main river being the Somme, which discharges itself into
the sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the town. The
principal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic
architecture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted
for defence and ornament. In the morning, they brought
us choice of guns and pistols to sell at reasonable rates,
and neatly made, being here a merchandise of great
account, the town abounding in giin-smiths.
• In his history of that king.
45J DIARY OP [sT, DENIS,
Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good
note, and having the first vineyards we had seen. The
next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to Paris, having
taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great
city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathe-
dral, and the dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed
as ours at Westminster Abbey. The treasury is esteemed
one of the richest in Europe. The church was built by
king Dagobert,* but since much enlarged, being now 390
feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without com-
prehending the cover : it has also a very high shaft of
stone, and the gates are of brass. Here, whilst the monks
conducted us, we were showed the ancient and modern
sepulchres of their kings, beginning with the founder to
Louis his son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and
father of Charlemagne. These lie in the choir, and without
it are many more ; amongst the rest that of Bertrand du
Gueschn, Constable of France ; in the chapel of Chai'les V.,
all his posterity, and near him the magnificent sepul-
chre of Francis I. with his children, wars, victories, and
triumphs engraven in marble. In the nave of the church
lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIIL, Henry II., a
noble tomb of Francis II., and Charles IX. Above are
bodies of several Saints ; below, under a state of black
velvet, the late Louis XIII., father of this present monarch.
Every one of the ten chapels, or oratories, had some
Saints in them ; amongst the rest, one of the Holy Inno-
cents. The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in
which are crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with
precious stones, one of gold three feet high, set with sap-
phires, rubies, and great oriental pearls. Another given
by Charles the Great, having a noble amethyst in the
middle of it, stones and pearls of inestimable value.
Amongst the still more valuable rehcs are, a nail from our
Saviour^s Cross, in a box of gold full of precious stones ; a
crucifix of the true wood of the Cross, carved by Pope
Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered with gold ; a
box in which is some of the Vii'gin's hair ; some of the
linen in which om* blessed Saviour was wrapped at his
nativity; in a huge reliquarj'^, modelled like a church,
some of our Saviour's blood, hair, clothes, linen with which
* A.D. 630.
1643.] JOHN EVELYN. 43
he wiped the Apostles* feet ; with many other equally
authentic toys, which the friar who conducted us, would
have us believe were authentic relics. Amongst the trea-
sures is the crown of Charlemagne, his seven-foot high
sceptre and hand of justice, the agraffe of his royal mantle,
beset with diamonds and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs
of gold; the crown of St. Louis, covered with precious
stones, amongst which is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestima-
ble value, weighing 300 carats, (under which is set one of
the thorns of our blessed Saviour^s crown,) his sword, seal,
and hand of justice. The two crowns of Henry IV., his
sceptre, hand of justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his
son, Louis. In the cloak-royal of Anne of Bretagne is a
very great and rare ruby. Divers books covered with
solid plates of gold, and studded with precious stones.
Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof one is esteemed
for its bigness, colour, and embossed carving, the best now
to be seen : by a special favour I was permitted to take the
measure and dimensions of it ; the story is a Bacchanalia
and sacrifice to Priapus ; a very holy thing truly, and fit
for a cloister ! It is really antique, and the noblest jewel
there. There is also a large gondola of chrysolite, a huge
urn of porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of onyx^ the
largest I had ever seen of that stone ; two of crystal ; a
morsel of one of the waterpots in which our Saviour did
his first miracle ; the effigies of the queen of Saba, of
Julius Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and others,
upon sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians, — that of
the queen of Saba* has a Moorish face ; those of JuKus
and Nero on agates rarely coloured and cut : a cup in
which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on a
great amethyst. There lay in a window, a mirror of a
kind of stone said to have belonged to the poet Virgil :
Charlemagne^s chessmen, full of Arabic characters. In
the press next the door, the brass lantern full of crystals,
said to have conducted Judas and his company to appre-
hend our blessed Saviour. A fair unicornis horn, sent by
a king of Persia, about seven feet long. In another press
(over which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans
Amazon with her sword) the effigies of the late French
kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their
* Or Sheba.
44, DIARY OP [PARIS,
robes ; with a world of other rarities. — Having rewarded
our courteous friar, we took horse for Paris, where we
arrived about five in the afternoon. In the way were fair
crosses of stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every furlong's
end, where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his
head after martyrdom, carrying it from the place where
this monastery is builded. We lay at Paris at the Ville de
Venice ; where, after I had sojnething refreshed, I went
to visit Sir E-ichard Browne, his Majesty's Resident with
the French king.
5th December. The Earl of Norwich* came as Ambas-
sador extraordinary : I went to meet him in a coach and six
horses, at the palace of Monsieur de Bassompiere, where
I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and rare
prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the
ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality,
to the Palais Cardinal, where on the 23rd he had audience
of the French king, and the queen Regent his mother, in
the golden chamber of presence. From thence, I con-
ducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so took
my leave.
iiJ4th. I went with some company to see some remarkable
places without the city : as the Isle, and how it is encom-
passed by the rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city is
divided into three parts, whereof the town is greatest.
The city lies between it and the University, in form of an
island. Over the Seine, is a stately bridge called Pont
Neuf, begun by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV.,
his successor. It is all of hewn free-stone found under
the streets, but more plentifully at Montmartre, and con-
sists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the point
of an island, on which are built handsome artificers'
houses. There is one large passage for coaches, and two
for foot-passengers three or four feet higher, and of conve-
nient breadth for eight or ten to go abreast. On the
middle of this stately bridge, on one side stands the
famous statue of Henry the Great on horseback, exceed-
ing the natural proportion by much; and, on the four
faces of a stately pedestal (which is composed of various
sorts of pohshed marbles and rich mouldings) inscriptions.
♦ George Lord Goring ; upon whom the above title had been i-ecently
conferred.
1643.] JOHN EVELYN. 45
of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in
brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of
the great John di Bologna, and sent from Florence by
Eerdinand the First, and Cosmo the Second, uncle and
cousin to Mary de Medicis, the wife of king Henry, whose
statue it represents. The place where it is erected, is
inclosed with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about
which there are always mountebanks showing their feats
to idle passengers. From hence is a rare prospect towards
the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du
Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a
water-house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the
story of Our Saviour and the woman of Samaria pouring
water out of a bucket. Above is a very rare dial of several
motions, with a chime, &c. The water is conveyed by
huge wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river
beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude of
coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new
spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there
are, as that of Notre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, &c.,
fairly built, with houses of stone, which are laid over this
river : only the Pont St. Anne, landing the suburbs of
St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of wood, having
likewise a water-house in the midst of it, and a statue of
Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but
much inferior to the Samaritan.
The University lies south-west on higher ground, con-
tiguous to, but the lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no
less than sixty-five colleges ; but they in nothing approach
ours at Oxford for state and order. The booksellers dwell
within the University. The schools (of which more
hereafter) are very regular.
The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honore, St. Marcel,
St. Jaques, St. Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains,
which last is the largest, and where the nobihty and
persons of best quality are seated ; and truly Paris, com-
prehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are
built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of
the most gallant cities in the world ; large in circuit, of a
round form, very populous, but situated in a bottom,
environed with gentle declivities, rendering some places
very dirty, and making it smeU as if sulphur were mingled
46 DIARY OF [PARIS,
with the mud ; yet it is paved with a kind of free-stone,
of near a foot square ; which renders it more easy to walk
on than our pebbles in London.
On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at N6tre
Dame, erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by King
Kobert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic
fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles
in the church round about the choir, without comprehend-
ing the chapels, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100
high. The choir is inclosed with stone-work graven with
the sacred history, and contains forty -five chapels chancelled
with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues
in relievo of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from
Childebert to the founder, Philip ; and above them are
two high square towers, and another of a smaller size,
bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the church
forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by 389 steps,
having twelve galleries from one to the other. They
greatly reverence the crucifix over the screen of the choir,
with an image of the Blessed Virgin. There are some
good modern paintings hanging on the pillars: the most con-
spicuous statue is the huge colossal one of St. Christopher,
with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects, and
rocks, about this gigantic piece, being of one stone, and
more remarkable for its bulk than any other perfection.
This is the prime church of France for dignity, having
archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplains in good
store, to the number of 127. It is also the palace of the
archbishop. The young king was there with a great
and martial guard, who entered the nave of the church
with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was enter-
tained with the church-music ; and so I left him.
January 4th, 1644. I passed this day with one Mr.
J. Wall, an Irish gentleman, who had been a friar in
Spain, and afterwards a reader in St. Isodore's chair, at
Rome ; but was, I know not how, getting away, and pre-
tending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier,
having, as he told us, been a captain of horse in Germany.
It is certain he was an excellent disputant, and so strangely
given to it that nothing could pass him. He would needs
persuade me to go with him this morning to the Jesuits*
College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 47
Fathers in their Church at the Eue St. Antoine, where one
of them showed us that noble fabric, which for its cupola,
pavings, incrustations of marble, the pulpit, altars, (espe-
cially the high altar,) organ, lavatorium, &c., but above all,
for the richly carved and incomparable front I esteem to
be one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe,
emulating even some of the greatest now at Rome itself.
But this not being what our friar sought, he led us into
the adjoining convent, where having showed us the library,
they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity,
which our cavalier contested only to show his pride, and
to that indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly
bring us to our coach, they being put beside all patience.
The next day, we went into the University, and into the
College of Navarre, which is a spacious well-built quadran-
gle, having a very noble library.
Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one
Robert de Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restora-
tion which the late Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it
renders it one of the most excellent modern buildings;
the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far
superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole
design of the church, are very magnificent.
We entered into some of the schools, and in that of
divinity we found a grave doctor in his chair, with a mul-
titude of auditors, who all write as he dictates ; and this
they call a Course. After we had sat a httle, our cavalier
started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the
doctor ; at which, and especially as he was clad in the
Spanish habit, which in Paris is the greatest bugbear
imaginable, the scholars and doctor fell into such a fit of
laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a while ;
but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and
make his apology in so good a style, that their derision
was turned to admiration; and, beginning to argue, he
so baffled the Professor, that with universal applause they
all rose up and did him great honours, waiting on us
to the very street and our coach, and testifying great
satisfaction.
2nd Feb. I heard the news of my nephew George's
birth, which was on January 15th, Enghsh style, 1644.
3rd. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to
4g DIARY OF [pAnis,
the buildings is very noble ; but the galleries where they
sell their petty merchandise nothing so stately as ours at
London, no more than the place where they walk below,
being only a low vault.
The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in the
time of Philip the Fair, noble and spacious. The great
Hall annexed to it, is arched with stone, having a range of
pillars in the middle, round which, and at the sides, are
shops of all kinds, especially booksellers*. One side is full
of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here,
(as ours at Westminster). At one of the ends stands an
altar, at which mass is said daily. Within are sevei-al
chambers, courts, treasuries, &c. Above that is the most
rich and glorious Salle d' Audience, the chamber of St.
Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament
sits, richly gilt on embossed carvings and frets, and
exceeding beautified.
Within the place where they sell their wares, is another
narrower gallery, full of shops and toys, &c., which looks
down into the prison-yard. Descending by a large pair
of stairs, we passed by Sainte Chapelle, which is a chtu-ch
built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic manner; it
stands on another church, which is under it, sustained by
pillars at the sides, which seem so weak, as to appear
extraordinary in the artist. This chapel is most famous
for its rehcs, having, as they pretend, almost the entire
crown of thorns ; the agate patine, rarely sculptured,
judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There was
now a very beautiful spire erecting. The court below is
very spacious, capable of holding many coaches, and sur-
rounded with shops, especially engravers', goldsmiths*,
and watchmakers'. In it are a fair fountain and portico.
The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building,
whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by
goldsmiths. Within the court are private dwellings. The
front looking on the great bridge, is possessed by mounte-
banks, operators, and puppet-players. On the other part,
is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, espe-
cially bread, herbs, flowers, orange-trees, choice shrubs.
Here is a shop called Noah's Ark, where are sold all
curiosities, natural or artificial, Indian or European, for
luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, ivory, porcelain, dried
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 49
fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand exotic
extravagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dau-
phine, an arch of excellent workmanship ; the street,
bearing the same name, is ample and straight.
4th. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where are
a noble church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the
Knights Templars, now converted to a piazza, not much
unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large and not so
pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable
palaces.
The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of great devo-
tion, dedicated to another of their Amazons, said to have
delivered the city from the Enghsh ; for which she is
esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands on a steep
eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by
canons regular.
At the Palais Royal, Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle
of stately palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of
a spacious area, stands on a noble pedestal a brazen statue
of Louis XIII., which, though made in imitation of that
in the Homan capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as
that on the Pont Neuf.
The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honore,
is an excellent foundation; but above all is the Hotel
Dieu for men and women, near Notre Dame, a princely,
pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charite gave
me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and chris-
tianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy.
I have seen them served by noble persons, men and
women. They have also gardens, walks, and fountains.
Divers persons are here cut for the stone with great
success yearly in May. The two Chatelets (supposed to
have been built by Julius Caesar) are places of judicature
in criminal causes; to which is a strong prison. The
courts are spacious and magnificent.
8th . I took coach and went to see the famous
Jardine Royale, which is an enclosiu-e walled in, consist-
ing of all varieties of ground for planting and culture of
medical simples. It is well chosen, having in it hills,
meadows, wood and upland, natural and artificial, and is
richly stored with exotic plants. In the middle of the
parterre, is a fair fountain. There is a very fine house,
VOL. I. E
50 DIARY OF [PARIS,
chapelj laboratory, orangery, and other accommodations
for the President, who is always one of the king's chief
physicians.
From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and
to some distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going
by the Bastile, which is the fortress, tower, and magazine
of this great city. It is very spacious within, and there
the Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with fair
giardens and walks.
The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble
castle, with magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court,
not forgetting the chapel. It is the chief prison for
persons of quality. About it there is a park walled in,
full of deer; and in one part there is a grove of goodly
pine-trees.
The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more
attention, its several courts and pavUions. One of the
quadrangles, begun by Henry IV. and finished by his
son and grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The
cornices, mouldings, and compartments, with the inser-
tion of several coloured marbles, have been of great
expense.
We went through the long gallery, paved vdth white
and black marble, richly fretted and painted a fresco.
The front looking to the river, though of rare work for
the car\ing, yet wants of that magnificence which a
plainer and truer design would have contributed to it.
In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the
winding geometrical stone stairs, with the cupola, I take
to be as bold and noble a piece of architecture, as any
in Europe of the kind. To this is a corps de logis,
worthy of so great a prince. Under these buildings,
through a garden in which is an ample fountain, was the
king's printing-house, and that famous letter so much
esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic authors,
poets, and others.
We returned through another gallery, larger, but not
80 long, where hung the pictures of all the kings and
queens and prime nobility of France.
Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large
room, called the Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted
Cimelia, destined for statues only, amongst which stands
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 51
that 80 celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said to be the
same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple.
Besides those colossean figures of marble, I must not
forget the huge globe suspended by chains. The pav-
ings, inlayings, and incrustations of this Hall, are very
rich.
In another more private garden towards the Queen's
apartment is a walk, or cloister, under arches, whose terrace
is paved with stones of a great breadth ; it looks towards the
river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain, stately cypresses,
&c. On the river are seen a prodigious number of barges
and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine,
and other commodities, which this vast city daily con-
sumes. Under the long gallery we have described, dwell
goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and architects, who being
the most famous for their art in Christendom, have sti-
pends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur
Saracin we entered, who was then moulding for an image
of a Madonna to be cast in gold of a great size, to be sent
by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an oflFering for the
birth of the Dauphin, now the young King.
I finished this day ^vith a walk in the great garden of
the Tuileries, rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or com-
pany, by groves, plantations of tall trees, especially that
in the middle, being of elms, the other of mulberries ; and
that lybrinth of cypresses ; not omitting the noble hedges
of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary;
but, above all, the artificial echo, redoubhng the words so
distinctly; and, as it is never without some fair nymph
singing to its grateful returns ; standing at one of the
focuses, which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges,
the voice seems to descend from the clouds ; at another,
as if it was underground. This being at the bottom of
the garden, we were let into another, which being kept
with all imaginable accurateness as to the orangery, pre-
cious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a
terrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would
hardly think could be maintained in the whole city, going,
late as it was in the year, towards the Course, which is a
place adjoining, of near an English mile long, planted
with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the
middle. This course is walled about, near breast high,
E 2
rgg DIARY OF [sT. CLOUD,
with squared freestone, and has a stately arch at the
entrance, with sculpture and statues about it, built by
Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the gallants and ladies,
of the Court take the air and divert themselves, as with
us in Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing
a hundred coaches to turn commodiously, and the
larger of the plantations for five or six coaches a-breast.
Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in
which are kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear,
a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, &c.
27th . Accompanied with some English gentle-
men, we took horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately
country-house of the King, some five leagues from Paris.
By the way, we ahghted at St. Cloud, where, on an
eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a
garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely
watered and furnished with fountains, statues, and groves;
the walks are very fair ; the fountain of Laocoon is in a
large square pool, throwing the water near forty feet high,
and having about it a multitude of statues and basins,
and is a surprising object. But nothing is more esteemed
than the cascade falling from the great steps into the
lowest and longest walk from the Mount Parnassus, which
consists of a grotto, or shell-house, on the summit of the
hill, wherein are divers waterworks and contrivances to
wet the spectators ; this is covered with a fair cupola, the
walls painted with the Muses, and statues placed thick
about it, whereof some are antique and good. In the
upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to enlarge the
alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious con-
trivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary.
The outer walls only painted a fresco. In the court is a
Volary, and the statues of Charles IX., Henry III., IV.,
and Louis XIII. on horseback, mezzo-relievo'd in plaster.
In the garden is a small chapel ; and under shelter is the
figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original,
with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well
painted ; and thence an excellent prospect towards Paris,
the meadoAvs, and rivefr.
At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the
great persons in princely lodgings for furniture and plate,
but they pay well for it, as I- have done. Indeed, the
1544.] JOHN EVELYN. 53
entertainment is very splendid, and not unreasonable,
considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat,
and of the service. Here are many debauches and
excessive revellings, as being out of all noise and
observance.
From hence, about a league farther, we went to see
Cardinal Richelieu's villa, at Ruell. The house is small,
but fairly built, in form of a castle, moated round. The
offices are towards the road, and over-against it are large
vineyards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the
greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I
doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities
of pleasure. The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre,
having in the midst divers noble brass statues, perpetually
spouting water into an ample basin, with other figures of
the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast
inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, con-
taining vineyards, corn-fields, meadows, groves (whereof
one is of perennial greens), and walks of vast length, so
accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more
agreeable. On one of these walks, within a square of tall
trees, is a basihsk* of copper, which, managed by the
fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of
itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape
wetting. This leads to the Citroni^re, which is a noble
conserve of all those rarities ; and at the end of it is the
Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large as
the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man
skilled in painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture.
The sky and hiUs, which seem to be between the arches,
are so natural, that swallows and other birds, thinking to
fly through, have dashed themselves against the wall. I
was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the
further part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial
cascade, which rolls down a very steep declivity, and over
the marble steps and basins, with an astonishing noise
and fury ; each basin hath a jetto in it, flowing like sheets
of transparent glass, especially that which rises over the
great shell of lead, from whence it ghdes silently down
a channel through the middle of a spacious gravel walk,
tenninating in a grotto. Here are also fountains that
• The imaginary animal, or serpent, so called.
5^ DIARY OP [sT. GERMAINS,
cast water to a great height, and large ponds, two of
which have islands for harbour of fowls, of which there
is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them
built of vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet high, gi'own
over with moss, ivy, &c., shaded at a competent distance
with tall trees : in this rupellary nidary do the fowl lay
eggs, and breed. We then saw a large and very rare
grotto of shell-work, in the shape of Satyrs, and other wild
fancies : in the middle stands a marble table, on which a
fountain plays in divers forms of glasses, cups, crosses,
fans, crowns, &c. Then the fountaineer represented a
^ower of rain from the top, met by small jets from below»
At going out, two extravagant musketeers shot us with a
stream of water from their musket barrels. Before this
grotto is a long pool into which ran divers spouts of water
from leaden escalop basins. The viewing this paradise
made us late at St. Germains.
The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called
the Sage ; but Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it
complete ; speaking as to the style of magnificence then
in fashion, which was with too great a mixture of the
Gothic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his
in the old Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old
foundation, and having a moat about it. It has yet some
spacious and handsome rooms of state, and a chapel neatly
painted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided
from this by a coiu-t, of a lower, but more modem design,
built by Henry IV. To this belong six terraces, built of
brick and stone, descending in cascades towards the river,
cut out of the natural hill, having under them goodly
vaulted galleries; of these, four have subterranean grots
and rocks, where are represented several objects in the
manner of scenes and other motions, by force of water,,
shown by the Ught of torches only; amongst these, is
Orpheus with his music, and the animals, which dance
after his har|) ; in the second, is the King ^nd Dolphin ; *^
in the third, is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot
drawn by sea-horses ; in the fourth, the story of Perseus
and Andromeda ; mills ; hermitages ; men fishing ; birds
chirping; and many other devices. There is also a dry
grot to refresh in ; all having a fine prospect towards the.
* Dauphin.
1644] JOHN EVELYN. f^
river^ and the goodly country about it, especially tlie forest.
At the bottom, is a parterre ; the upper terrace near half
a mile in length, with double declivities, arched and
balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost.
In the pavilion of the new Castle are many lair rooms,
well painted, and leading into a very noble garden and park,
where is a pall-mall, in the midst of which, on one of the
sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola, though small, yet of
a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park you
go into the forest, which being very large, is stored with
deer, wild boars, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis
Court, and Cavallerizzo, for the menaged horses, axe also
observable.
We returned to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the
King's, bmlt by Francis I. and called by that name to
absolve him of his oath that he would not go from Madrid
(in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but jfrom whence he
made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and
walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-hommes,
well-situated, with a fair chapel and library.
1 March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace
in the Eue de Seine, which is well built. Towards his
study and bedchamber joins a httle garden, which, though
very narrow, by the addition of a well-painted perspective,
is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there is another
part, supported by arches, in which runs a stream of
water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to
flow for some miles, by being artificially continued in the
painting, when it sinks down at the wall. It is a very
agreeable deceit. At the end of this garden, is a little
theatre, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and
the stage so ordered, with figures of men and women
painted on light boards, and cut out, and, by a person
who stands underneath, made to act as if they were speak-
ing, by guiding them, and reciting words in different tones,
as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet,
where was a neat invention for reflecting lights, by hning
divers sconces with thin shining plates of gilded copper.
In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting
of Poussin, being a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney,
the Coronation of the Virgin, by Paulo Veronese ; another
Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by Cigali ; in
^ DIARY OF [CHARENTON,
the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said
to be of Michael Angelo ; the Rape of Proserpine, with a
very large landscape of Correggio. In the next room, are
some paintings of Primaticcio, especially the Helena, the
naked Lady brought before Alexander, well-painted, and
a Ceres. In the bed-chamber a picture of the Cardinal
de Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely coloured. In the cabinet
are divers pieces of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of
Paulo Brill, the skies a Httle too blue. A Madonna of
Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of
Mantegna ; three women of Jeronimo ; one of Stenwick ;
a Madonna after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same
hand, as the Count esteems it : two small pieces of Paulo
Veronese, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justina and St.
Catherine ; a Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him
from our King ; six more of old Bassano ; two excellent
drawings of Albert ; a Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ;
four of Paulo ; a very rare Madonna of Titian, given him
also by our King ; the Ecce Homo, shut up in a frame of
velvet, for the life and accurate finishing exceeding all
description. Some curious agates, and a chaplet of ad-
mirable invention, the intagUos being all on fruit stones.
The Count was so exceeding civil, that he would needs
make his Lady go out of her dressing-room, that he might
show us the curiosities and pictures in it.
We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of
the greatest virtuosos in France, for his collection of pic-
tures, agates, medals, and flowers, especially tuhps and
anemonies. The chiefest of his paintings was a Sebastian,
of Titian.
From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, who shewed
us many rare drawings, a Rape of Helen in black chalk ;
many excellent things of Sneiders. all naked; some of
Julio and Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano;
some things of Parmensis, and other masters.
The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur
de Hausse, President du Parliament, and once Ambas-
sador at Venice for the French King, we were very civiUy
received, and shewed his Ubrary. Amongst his paintings
were, a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony,
after the first manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna
of Palma.
1644] JOHN EVELYN. 57
Sunday, the 6th. I went to Charenton, two leagues
from Paris, to hear and see the manner of the French
Protestant Church service. The place of meeting they
call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room, built of
freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the
Tables of the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and Creed. The
pulpit stands at the upper end in the middle, having an
inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders, and persons
of greatest quality and strangers, sit ; the rest of the con-
gregation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as
in our churches, to their great disgrace, and nothing so
orderly, as here the stools and other cumber are removed
when the assembly rises. I was greatly pleased with their
harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all learn per-
fectly well, their children being as duly taught these, as
their catechism.
In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the
Marne, where that renowned, echo returns the voice of a
good singer nine or ten times.
7th . I set forwards with some company towards
Fontainebleau, a sumptuous Palace of the King's, like ours
at Hampton Court, about fourteen leagues from the city.
By the way, we pass through a forest so prodigiously
encompassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone,
heaped one on another in mountainous heights, that I
think the like is nowhere to be found more horrid and
solitary. It abounds with stags, wolves, boars, and not
long after a lynx, or ounce, was killed amongst them, which
had devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of
these gloomy precipices, intermingled with trees and
shrubs, the stones hanging over, and menacing ruin, is
built an hermitage. In these solitudes, rogues frequently
lurk and do mischief (and for whom we were all well
appointed with our carabines) ; but we arrived save in the
evening at the village, where we lay at the Home, going
early next morning to the Palace.
This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hamp-
ton-Court, but Francis I. began much to beautify it;
most of all Henry IV. (and not a little) the late King.
It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and galleries ; in
the longest, which is 360 feet long, and 18 broad, are
painted the Victories of that great Prince, Henry IV.
5g DIARY OP [fontainebleau.
That of Francis I. called the grand Gallery, has all the
King^s Palaces painted in it ; above these, in sixty pieces
of excellent work in fresco, is the History of Ulysses,
from Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of Henry III.,
esteemed the most renowned in Europe for the design.
The Cabinet is full of excellent pictures, especially a
Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the Guards is a
piece of tapestry painted on the wall, very naturally, re-
presenting the Victories of Charles VII. over our country-
men. In the Salle des Festins is a rare Chimney-piece,
and Henry IV. on horseback, of white marble, esteemed
worth 18,000 crowns ; dementia and Pax, nobly done.
On columns of jasper, two lions of brass. The new stairs,
and a half circular court, are of modern and good archi-
tecture, as is a chapel built by Louis XIII., all of jasper,
with several incrustations of marble through the inside.
Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has
a cupola in the middle of it, great trees and bushes, it
being full of birds who drank at two fountains. There is
also a fair tennis-court, and noble stables ; but the beauty
of all are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains,
stand divers antiquities and statues; especially a Mercury.
In the Queen's Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain,
with numerous other brass statues.
The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in
the centre a foimtain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of
brass, with the Wolf over Romulus and Remus. At each
corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the garden of
the piscina, is a Hercules of wliite marble : next, is that of
the pines, and without that a canal of an Enghsh mile in
length, at the end of which rise three jettos in the fonn
of a fleur-de-lis, of a great height; on the margin are
excellent walks planted with trees. The c^ps come
familiarly to hand [to be fed] . Hence, they brought us
to a spring, which they say being first discovered by a
dog, gave occasion of beautifying this place, both with the
palace and gardens. The white and terrific rocks at some
distance in the forest, yield one of the most august and
stupendous prospects imaginable. The park about this
place is very lai'ge, and the town full of noblemen's
houses.
Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 5|^
keeper of the pictures and rarities, to see his own col-
lection. We were led through a gallery of old B-osso's
work, at the end of which, in another cabinet, were three
Madonnas of Raphael, and two of Andrea del Sarto. In
the Academy where the Painter himself wrought, was a
St. Michael, of Raphael, very rare; St. John Baptist, of
Leonardo, and a Woman's head ; a Queen of Sicily, and
St. Margaret, of Raphael ; two more Madonnas, whereof
one very large, by the same hand; some more of del
Sarto; a St. Jerome, of Perino del Vaga; the Rape of
Proserpine, very good ; and a great number of drawings.
Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited
a house called Maison Rouge, having an excellent prospect,
grot, and fountains, one whereof rises fifty feet,and resem-
bles the noise of a tempest, battles of guns, &c. at its issue.
Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Esshng, who is-
a great virtuoso; there are many good paintings in it; but
nothing so observable as his gardens, fountains, fish-pools,
especially that in a triangular form, the water cast out by
a multitude of heads about it; there is a noble cascade
and pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a
marble table is a fountain of serpents twisting about a
globe.
We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege
by Henry IV. Here we slept, and returned next morning
to Paris.
18th . I went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridge-
shire Knight, a journey into Normandy. The first day, we
passed by Gaillon, the Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The
gardens are highly commended, but we did not go in,
intending to reach Pontoise, by dinner. This town is
built in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge oyer the
Oise, and is well refreshed with fountains.
This is the first town in Normandy, and the farthest
that the vineyards extend to on this side of the country,
which is fuller of plains, wood, and enclosures, with some
towns towards the sea, very like England.
We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next
day, descending a very steep hill, we dined at Fleury,
after riding five leagues down St. Catherine, to Rouen,
which affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of that
chapel and mountain. This country so abounds with
6Q - DIARY OF .• [rouen,
wolves, that a shepherd whom we met, told us one of his
companions was strangled by one of them the day before,
and that in the midst of his flock. The fields are mostly
planted with pears and apples, and other cider fruits. It
is plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate,
and hath iron in abundance.
I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very
large city, on the Seine, having two smaller rivers besides,
called the Aubette and Robec. There stand yet the ruins
of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied by one of
boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable bur-
then. The other side of the water consists of meadows,
and there have the Reformed a Church.
The Cathedral Notre Dame was built, as they acknow-
ledge, by the English ; some Enghsh words graven in
Gothic characters upon the front seem to confirm it. The
towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three
steeples, with a pyramid ; in one of these, I saw the famous
oell so much talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty -two
round, the diameter eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds.
In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that
name, lies his body, with several fair monuments. The
Choir has behind it a great dragon painted on the wall,
which they say had done much harm to the inhabitants,
till vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop ; for which
there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter,
and many images were exposed with scenes and stories
representing the Passion; made up of little puppets, to
which there was great resort and devotion, with offerings.
Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another
goodly church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the
King hath lodgings, when he makes his progress through
these parts. The structure, where the Court of Parliament
is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls and
chambers, especially La Chambre Doree. The town-
house is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's
houses ; but most part of the rest are of timber, hke our
merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city.
21st . On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a
solitary inn between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter
place we arrived. This town is situated between two
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 6X
mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the north
by our English seas.
The port is commodious ; but the entrance difficult. It
has one very ample and fair street, in which is a pretty
church. The Fort Pollet consists of a strong earth- work,
and commands the haven, as on the other side does the
castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before
it ; nor is the town itself a Httle strong. It abounds with
workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and
tortoise-shells; and indeed whatever the East Indies
afibrd of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities,
are here to be had, with abundant choice.
23rd. We passed along the coast by a very rocky and
rugged way, which forced us to ahght many times before
we came to Havre de Grace, where we lay that night.
The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and
regular, well stored with artillery and ammunition of all
sorts : the works furnished with fair brass cannon, having
a motto. Ratio ultima Regum. The allogements of the
garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up
the soldiers, a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the
Governor. The Duke of RicheUeu being now in the
fort, we went to salute him ; who received us very civiUy,
and commanded that we should be shewed whatever we
desired to see. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal
de Richelieu, uncle of the present Duke, and may be
esteemed one of the strongest in France. The haven is
very capacious.
When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and
horses to pass to Honfleur, about four or five leagues
distant, where the Seine falls into the sea. It is a poor
fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the odd,
yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears'
and other skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along these
maritime coasts.
25th. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful
town, situate on the river Ome, which passes quite
through it, the two sides of the town joined only by a
bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the Angel, where
we were very well used, the place being abundantly
furnished with provisions, at a cheap rate. The most
considerable object is the great Abbey and Church, large
153 DIARY OF [cAEN,
and rich, built after the Gothic manner, having two
spires and middle lantern at the west end, all of stone.
The choir round and large, in the centre whereof, elevated
on a square, handsome, but plain sepulchre, is this
incription : —
" Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris,
Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomanno-
rumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris : Cum
anno 1562 vesano haereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem
nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam
beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a° D'lii 1642, D'no Johanne
de Bailhache Assaetorii proto priore. D. D."
*0n the other side are these monkish rhymes : —
" Qui rexit rigidos Noi-thmannos, atq. Britannos
Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit,
Et Cenomanensis virtute coercuit ensis,
Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit.
Rex magnus parva jacet hac Gulielm' in Uma,
Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino.
Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus
Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hie obiit."
We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so
is the town-house, built on the bridge which unites the
two towns. Here are schools and an University for the
Jurists.
The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent
stone so well known by that name in England. I was led
to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of alatemus,
having at the entrance a skreen at an exceeding height,
accurately cut in topiary work, with well-understood
architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and
other ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the
columns curiously wreathed, others spiral, all according
to art.
28th. We went towards Paris, lying the first night
at Evreux, a Bishop's seat, an ancient tOAvn, with a fair
cathedral ; so the next day we arrived at Paris.
Ist April. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the
fine Palace of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains,
built by Mary di Medicis, and I think one of the most
noble, entire, and finished piles that is to be seen, taking
it with the garden and all its accomplishments. The
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. ^ ^
gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history
of the Foundress's Life, rarely designed ; at the end of
it is the Duke of Orleans' library, well furnished with
excellent books, all bound in maroquin and gilded, the
valance of the shelves being of green velvet, fringed with
gold. In the cabinet joining to it are only the smaller
volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and an excellent
collection of shells and agates, whereof some are pro-
digiously rich. This Duke being very learned in medals
and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. There are
other spacious, noble, and princely furnished rooms, Avhich
look towards the gardens, which are nothing inferior to
the rest.
The court below is formed into a square by a corridor,
having over the chief entrance a stately cupola, covered
with stone; the rest is cloistered and arched on pilasters
of rustic work. The terrace ascending before the front,
paved with white and black marble, is balustered with
white marble, exquisitely pohshed.
Only the haU below is low, and the staircase somewhat
of a heavy design, but the faccia towards the parterre,
which is also arched and vaulted with stone, is of
admirable beauty, and full of sculpture.
^ The gardens are near an English mile in compass,
enclosed with a stately wall, and in a good air. The
parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely designed and
accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a won-
derful effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided
into four squares, and as many circular knots, having in
the centre a noble basin of marble near thirty feet
diameter (as I remember), in which a Triton of brass
holds a dolphin, that casts a girandola of water near thirty
feet high, playing perpetually, the water being conveyed
from Arceuil by an. aqueduct of stone, built after the old
Eoman magnificence. About this ample parterre, the
spacious walks and all included, runs a border of freestone,
adorned with pedestals for pots and statues, and part of it
near the steps of the terrace, with a rail and baluster of
pure white marble.
The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descend-
ing, and so justly planted with hmes, elms, and other
trees, that nothing can be more delicious, especially that
54 DIARY OP [PARIS,
of the horn-beam hedge, which being high and stately,
buts full on the fountain.
Towards the farther end, is an excavation intended for
a vast fish-pool, but never finished, and. near it is an
inclosure for a garden of simples, well-kept ; and here the
Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the pool
of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a con-
sen-^atory for snow. At the upper part, towards the palace,
is a grove of tall elms cut into a star, every ray being a
walk, whose centre is a large fountain.
The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures
(all hedge-work or rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows,
bocages, some of them containing divers >f,cres.
Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house,
are knots in trail, or grass work, where hkewise runs a
fountain. Towards the grotto and stables, within a wall, is
a garden of choice flowers, in which the Duke spends many
thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanting to render
this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magni-
ficent; nor is it one of the least diversions to see the
number of persons of quahty, citizens and strangers, who
frequent it, and to whom all access is freely permitted,
so that you shall see some walks and retirements full of
gallants and ladies ; in others, melancholy friars ; in others,
studious scholars ; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or
lying on the grass, others running and jumping; some
playing at bowls and ball, others dancing and singing;
and all this without the least disturbance, by reason of the
largeness of the place.
What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men
at work, and yet all is kept in such exquisite order, as if
they did nothing else but work ; it is so early in the
morning, that all is dispatched and done without the least
confusion.
I have been the larger in the description of this para-
dise, for the extraordinary delight I have taken in those
sweet retirements. The Cabinet and Chapel nearer the
garden-front have some choice pictures. All the houses
near this are also very noble palaces, especially Petite
Luxemburg. The ascent of the street is handsome from
its breadth, situation, and buildings.
I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques'
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 65
«teeple, esteemed the highest in the town, from whence I
had a full view of the whole city and suburbs, both which,
as I judge, are not so large as London : though the dis-
similitude of their several forms and situations, this being
round, London long, — ^renders it difficult to determine;
but there is no comparison between the buildings, palaces,
and materials, this being entirely of stone and more
■sumptuous, though I esteem our piazzas to exceed theirs.
Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's churchyard,
"where the story of the devouring quality of the ground
(consuming bodies in twenty -four hours), the vast charnels
of bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchres, took up much
of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of
Nicholas FlameVs philosophical work, who had founded
this church, and divers other charitable estabhshments, as
he testifies in his book.
Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters
-for poor maids and other ignorant people who come to
them for advice, and to write for them into the country,
both to their sweethearts, parents, and friends ; every
large grave-stone serving for a table. Joining to this
church is a common fountain, with good relievos upon it.
The next day, I was carried to see a French gentleman's
curious collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels
of all sorts of precious stones, most of them of great sizes
and value; agates and onyxes, some of them admirably
coloured and antique; nor inferior were his landscapes
from the best hands, most of which he had caused to
•be copied in miniature ; one of which, rarely painted on
atone, was broken by one of our company, by the mis-
chance of setting it up : but such was the temper and
civihty of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of his
free and noble humour.
The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden
of Monsieur Morine, who, from being an ordinary gardener,
is become one of the most skilful and curious persons
in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, and
insects.
His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with
cypress, cut flat and set as even as a wall : the tulips,
anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, &c., are held to be of
the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that kind to his
VOL. I. V
66 DIARY OF [pAius,
house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitage
at one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelain
and coral, whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, is
much esteemed. He has also books of prints, by Albert
[Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, &c. His collection of all
sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most curious;
these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption
invading them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to
represent a beautiful piece of tapestry.
He shewed me the remarks he had made on their pro-
pagation, which he promised to publish. Some of these,,
as also of his best flowers, he had caused to be painted in
miniature by rare hands, and some in oil.
6th April. I sent my sister my own picture in water-
colours, which she requested of me, and went to see divers
of the fairest palaces of the town, as that of Vendome, very
large and stately ; Longueville ; Guise ; Conde ; Chevereuse;
Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris towards the river.
I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by
Eichelieu to the King, on condition that it should be
called by his name ; at this time, the King resided in it,
because of the budding of the Louvre. It is a very noble
house, though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of
the most illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's
baths, presence-chamber with its rich carved and gilded
roof, theatre, and large garden, in which is an ample
fountain, grove, and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also
frequently went to see them ride and exercise the great
horse, especially at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis,
and de Veau, whose schools of that art are frequented by
the nobility ; and here also young gentlemen are taught to
fence, dance, play on music, and something in fortification
and the mathematics. The design is admirable, some
keeping near a hundred brave horses, all managed to the
great saddle.
12th. I took coach, to see a general muster of all the
gens d'armes about the City, in the Bois de Boulogne,
before their Majesties, and all the Grandees. They were
reputed to be near 20,000, besides the spectators, who
much exceeded them in number. Here they performed
all their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot,
into several figures, represented a battle.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 67
The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend
the rest of it in some more remote town on the river
Loire; and, on 19th April, I took leave of Paris, and, by
the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to
Orleans.
The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the
roads in I^ance, is paved with a small square freestone, so
that the country does not much molest the traveller with
dirt and. ill way, as in England, only 'tis somewhat hard
to the poor horses' feet, which causes them to ride more
temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or grand pas,
as they call it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages;
amongst others of note, Chartres and Etampes, where we
lay the first night. This has a fair church. The next
day, we had an excellent road ; but had like to come short
home ; for, no sooner were we entered two or three leagues
into the Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many
miles), but the company behind us were set on by rogues,
who, shooting from the hedges and frequent covert, slew
four upon the spot. Amongst the slain, was a captain of
Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented.
This disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our
arrival, that the Prevot Marshal, with his assistants, going
in pursuit, brought in two whom they had shot, and
exposed them in the great market-place, to see if any
would take cognizance of them. I had great cause to
give God thanks for this escape ; when coming to Orleans
and lying at the White Cross, I found Mr. John Nicholas,
eldest son to Mr. Secretary.
21st. I went about to view the city, which is well
built of stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle
of the river is an island, full of walks and fair trees, with
some houses. This is contiguous to the town by a stately
stone-bridge, reaching to the opposite suburbs, built like-
wise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a beautiful
prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong
towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue of
the Virgin Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap,
as big as the life. At one side of the cross, kneels Charles
VII. armed, and at the other Joan d'Arc, armed also like a
cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair dishevelled, as the
deliveress of the town from our countrymen, when they
p2
63 DIARY OP [ORLEANS,
besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a
pedestal full of inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining
it, which is all adorned with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with
two saints proceeding (as it were) from two branches out
of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross are in Latin :
" Mors Christi in cruce nos "k contagione labis et aeternorum
morborum sanavit." On the pedestal : " Rex in hoc signo
hostes profiigavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio
liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc
anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. V^ — "Octannoque
Oalliam servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum
est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris ; in quorum
memoria hsec nostrse fidei Insignia.'^ To this is made
an annual procession on 12th May, inass being sung
before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse of
j)eople. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King^s
cup-bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the
King any of it ; but it is a very noble liquor, and much of
it transported into other countries. The town is much
frequented by strangers, especially Germans, for the
great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for
divers other privileges, and the University, which causes
the English to make no long sojourn here, except such as
can drink and debauch. The city stands in the county of
Bealse ; * was once styled a Kingdom, afterwards a Duchy,
as at present, belonging to the second son of France.
Many Councils have been held here, and some Kings
crowned. The University is very ancient, divided now by
the students into that of four nations, French, High Dutch,
Normans, and Picardines, who have each their respective
protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls, seals, &c.
There are in it two reasonable fair public libraries,
whence one may borrow a book to one's chamber, giving
but a note under hand, which is an extraordinary custom,
and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear. The
-first church I went to visit was St. Croix ; it has been a
stately fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars.
They report the tower of it to have been the highest in
France. There is the beginning of a fair reparation.
About this cathedral is a very spacious cemetery. The
town-house is also very nobly built, with a high tower to
• Blaisoia.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 69
it. The market-place and streets, some whereof are deli-
ciously planted with limes, are ample and straight, so well
paved with a kind of pebble, that I have not seen a neater
town in France. In fine, this city was by Francis I,
esteemed the most agreeable of his vast dominions.
28th. Taking boat on the Loire, I went towards
Blois, the passage and river being both very pleasant.
Passing Mehun, we dined at Baugenci, and slept at a
little town, called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark, we hired
horses to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house
of the King's, built by Francis I. in the middle of a
solitary park, full of deer, enclosed with a wall. I Avas
particularly desirous of seeing this palace, from the ex-
travagance of the design, especially the stair-case, men-
tioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were
constantly employed in this fabric for twelve years ; if so,
it is wonderful that it was not finished, it being no greater
than divers gentlemens' houses in England, both for room
and circuit. The carvings are indeed very rich and full.
The stair-case is devised with four entries, or ascents,
which cross one another, so that though four persons
meet, they never come in sight, but by small loop-holes,
till they land. It consists of 274 steps (as I remember),
and is an extraordinary work, but of far greater expense
than use or beauty. The chimneys of the house appear
like so many towers. About the whole is a large deep
moat. The country about is full of com, and wine, witli,
many fair noblemen's houses.
We arrived at Blois, in the evening. The town is hilly,
uneven, and rugged, standing on the side of the Loire,
having suburbs joined by a stately stone bridge, on which
is a pyramid with an inscription. At the entrance of the
castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as
large as life, under a Gothic state ; and a little below are
these words :
Hie ubi natus erat dextro LudovicQS Olympo,
Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu ;
Felix quae tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis !
Gallica non alio principe digna fuit.
Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of
wolves and wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the
70 DIARY OF [blois,
present Duke Gaston had begun a fair building, through
which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for its
furniture one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic
plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the
right hand, is a long gallery full of ancient statues and
inscriptions, both of marble and brass; the length, 300
paces, divides the garden into higher and lower ground,
having a very noble fountain. There is the portrait of a
hart, taken in the forest by Louis XII., which has twenty-
four antlers on its head. In the Collegiate Church of
St. Saviour, we saw many sepulchres of the Earls of Blois.
On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into PaU
Mall, very long, and so noble shaded with tall trees
(being in the midst of a great wood), that unless that of
Tours, I had not seen a statelier.
From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through
the adjoining forest, to see if we could meet any wolves,
which are here in such numbers that they often come and
take children out of the very streets; yet will not the
Duke, who is sovereign here, permit them to be destroyed.
We walked five or six miles outright; but met with none;
yet a gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree,
with his horse grazing by him, told us that, half an hour
before, two wolves had set upon his horse, and had in
probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by
him. At a little village at the end of this wood, we eat
excellent cream, and visited a castle builded on a very
steep cliff.
Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken ;
the inhabitants very courteous ; the air so good, that it is
the ordinary nursery of the King's children. The people
are so ingenious, that, for goldsmiths' work and watches,
no place in France affords the hke. The pastures by the
river are very rich and pleasant.
2nd May. We took boat again, passing by Charmont, a
proud castle on the left hand ; before it is a sweet island,
deliciously shaded with tall trees. A little distance from
hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very agreeable
village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue
slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are ; but the
castle chiefly invited us, the thickness of whose towers,
from the river to the top, was admirable. We entered by
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 71
the drawbridge, which has an invention to let one fall, if
not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious cham-
bers, and one stair-case is large enough, and sufficiently
commodious, to receive a coach, and land it on the very
tower, as they told us had been done. There is some
artillery in it : but that which is most observable is in the
ancient chapel, viz. a stag's head, or branches, hung up by
chains, consisting of twenty brow-antlers, the beam bigger
than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed,
it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should
be artificial : they show also the ribs and vertebrae of the
same beast ; but these might be made of whalebone.
Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village
having no houses above ground, but such only as are hewn
out of the main rocks of excellent freestone. Here and
there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface
amongst the vineyards which are over them, and in this
manner they inhabit the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one
side of the river for many miles.
We now came within sight of Tours, where we were
designed for the rest of the time I had resolved to stay in
France, the sojournment being so agreeable. Tours is
situate on the easy side of a hill on the river Loire, having
a fair bridge of stone, called St. Edme; the streets are
very long, straight, spacious, well-built, and exceeding
clean ; the suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city
by another bridge. Both the church and monastery of
St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, having four
square towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they
shew the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics.
The Mall without comparison is the noblest in Europe
for length and shade, having seven rows of the tallest
and goodhest elms I had ever beheld, the innermost of
which do so embrace each other, and at such a height,
that nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here
we played a party, or party or two, and then walked about
the town-waUs, bxiilt of square stone, filled with earth, and
having a moat. No city in France exceeds it in beauty,
or delight,
6th. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been
built by our coTintrymen; the dial and clock-work are
much esteemed. The church has two handsome towers
7* DIARY OF [sT. GiTUN,
and spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble and
venerable. To this joins the Palace of the Archbishop,
consisting both of old and new building, with many fair
rooms, and a fair garden. Here I grew acquainted with
one Monsieur Merey, a very good musician. The Arch-
bishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers
other churches, chapels, and monasteries, for the most
part neatly built, and full of pretty paintings, especially
the Convent of the Capuchins, which has a prospect over
the whole city, and many fair walks.
8th. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in
this town they drive a very considerable trade with silk-
worms), their pressing and watering the grograms and
camlets, with weights of an extraordinary poise, put into
a rolling-engine. Here I took a master of the language,
and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself
sometimes at the mall, and sometimes about the town.
The house opposite my lodging had been formerly a
King's palace; the outside was totally covered with fleur-
de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis
held her Court, when she was compelled to retire from,
Paris by the persecution of the great Cardinal.
25th. Was the Fete Dieu, and a goodly procession of all
the religious orders, the whole streets hung with their
best tapestries, and their most precious moveables ex-
posed ; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and pictures in
abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of
pageantry, banners, and bravery.
6th June. I went by water to visit that goodly and vener-
able Abbey of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest in
the kingdom : to it is a very ample church of stone, with
a very high pyramid. Amongst other relics, the Monks
shewed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that
which sacres their Kings at Rheims, this being the one
that anointed Henry IV. Ascending many steps, we
went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were shewed a
vast tun, (as big as that at Heidelberg), which they report
St. Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of
grapes growing there.
7th. We walked about two miles from the city to an
agreeable solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to
the King. It has many pretty gardens, full of nightin-
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. ^J^
gales : and, in the chapel, lies buried the famous poet,
Ronsard.
Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans,
called St. Cosmo, where the cloister is painted with the
miracles of their St. Francis h Paula, whose ashes lie in
their chapel, with this inscription : " Corpus Sancti Fran,
si Paula 1507. 13 Aprilis. concrematur vero ab Hsereticis
anno 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hie jacent." The
tomb has four small pyramids of marble at each corner.
9th. I was in\dted to a vineyard, which was so arti-
ficially planted and supported with arched poles, that
stooping down one might see from end to end, a very
great length, under the vines, the bunches hanging down
in abundance. •
20th. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called
Gouttiere, near Colombiere, where there is a spring within
the bowels of the earth, very deep and so excessive cold,
that the drops meeting with some lapidescent matter, it
converts them into a hard stone, which hangs about it
like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures
and sugar plums, as we call them.
Near this, we went under the ground almost two fur-
longs, lighted with candles, to see the source and spring
which serves the whole city, by a passage cut through the
main rock of freestone.
28th. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux,
a sweet place.
30th. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche
Corbd, to the ruins of an old and very strong castle said
to have been built by the EngUsh, of great height, on the
precipice of a dreadful cKff, from whence the country and
river yield a most incomparable prospect.
27 th July. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who
have here a school and convent, but a mean chapel. We
had now store of those admirable melons, so much cele-
brated in France for the best in the kingdom.
1st August. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in
Biscay, having misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ;
he demanded of me (besides his wages) no less than 100
crowns to carry him to his country ; refusing to pay it, as
no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest
me ; the next day I was to appear in Court, where both
y4 DIARY OP [tours,
our avocats pleaded before the Lieutenant Civil: but it
was so unreasonable a pretence, that the Judge had not
patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately acquit-
ting me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part
with my servant, he rose from the Bench, and, making a
courteous excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be
so used, he conducted me through the court to the street-
door. This varlet afterwards threatened to pistol me.
The next day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him
for his great civility.
18th. The Queen of England came to Tours, having
newly arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was
very nobly received by the people and clergy, who went to
meet her with th^ trained bands. After the harangue,
the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I
paid my duty to her. The 20th, she set forward to Paris.
8th September. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to
this place, where I settled them in their pension and
exercises.
14th. We took post for Richelieu, passing by FIsle
Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we ar-
rived, and went to see the Cardinal's Palace, near it. The
town is built in a low, marshy ground, having a narrow
river cut by hand, very even and straight, capable of
bringing up a small vessel. It consists of only one con-
siderable street, the houses on both sides (as indeed
throughout the town) built exactly imiform, after a modem
handsome design. It has a large goodly market-house
and place, opposite to which is the church built of free-
stone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow
from the towers. The church is well-built, and of a
weU-ordered architecture, within handsomely paved and
adorned. To this place belongs an Academy, where,
besides the exercise of the horse, arms, dancing, &c., all
the sciences are taught in the vulgar French by professors
stipendiated by the great Cardinal, who by this, the cheap
li^dng there, and divers privileges, not only designed the
improvement of the vulgar language, but to draw people
and strangers to the town ; but since the Cardinal's death
it is thinly inhabited ; standing so much out of the way,
and in a place not well situated for health, or pleasure.
He was allured to build by the name of the place, and an
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 76
old house tliere belonging to his ancestors. This pretty
town is handsomely walled about and moated, with a kind
of slight fortification, two fair gates and draw-bridges.
Before the gate, towards the palace, is a spacious circle,
where the fair is annually kept. About a flight-shot from
the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely pile, though
on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, en-
vironed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most
richly furnished with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet,
pictures, statues, vases, and all sorts of antiquities, espe-
cially the Caesars, in oriental alabaster. The long gallery
is painted with the famous acts of the Founder ; the roof
with the life of Juhus Caesar ; at the ^nd of it is a cupola,
or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of
black marble. The chapel anciently belonged to the
family of the Founder. The court is very ample. The
gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excel-
lent embroidery, set with many statues of brass and
marble ; the groves, meadows, and walks are a real
Paradise.
16th. We returned to Tours, from whence, after nineteen
weeks' sojom*n, we travelled towards the more southern
part of France, minding now to shape my course so, as I
might winter in Italy. With my fnend, Mr. Thicknesse,
and our guide, we went the first day seven leagues to a
castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis,
and now belonging to the Duke de Vendome, standing on
a bridge. In the gallery, amongst divers other excellent
statues, is that of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster.
21st. We passed by Villefranche, where we dined, and
so by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton, which was
twenty leagues. The next day by Murg to Botu'ges, four
leagues, where we spent the day. This is the capital of
Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch,
situated on the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and
well placed for defence; is environed with meadows and
vines, and the living here is very cheap. In the suburbs
of St. Priv^, there is a fountain of sharp water which they
report wholesome against the stone. They shewed us a
vast tree which they say stands in the centre of France.
The French tongue is spoken with great purity in this
place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well-built
76 DIARY OF [bourcf,
a la Gothique, full of sepulchres without-side, with the
representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports.
Here they show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a
famous soldier, who had served six Kings of France in
their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that at Paris,
full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a
giant of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John.
Duke of Berry, and there is shewed the coronet of the
dukedom. The great tower is a Pharos for defence of the
town, very strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified with
graffs and works ; there is a garrison in it, and a strange
engine for throwing great stones, and the iron cage where
Louis, Duke of Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near
the Town-house stahds the College of Jesuits, where was
heretofore an Amphitheatre. I was courteously enter-
tained by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we
fell into disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth
seeing. Bourges is an Archbishopric, and Primacy of
Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas, and some
other English there ; and, on the 23rd, proceeded on my
journey by Pont du Charge; and lay that evening at
Coulaiure, thirteen leagues.
24th, by Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to Moulins,
where we dined. This is the chief town of the Bourbon-
nois, on the river Alher, very navigable. The streets are
fair ; the Castle has a noble prospect, and has been the
seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden.
After dinner, came many who oflFered knives and scissors
to sell; it being a town famous for these trifles. This
Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily assigned for the dowry of
the Queens of France.
Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village,
where we lay that night. The next day, we went some-
what out of the way to see the town of Bourbon 1 'Ar-
chambaut, from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived
the name of the present Royal Family of France. The
castle stands on a flinty rock, overlooking the town. In
the midst of the streets are some baths of medicinal
waters, some of them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly
walled and adorned as ours in Somersetshire ; and indeed
they are chiefly used to drink of, our Queen being then
lodged there for that purpose. After dinner, I went to
1(544.] JOHN EVELYN. 77
see the St. Chapelle, a prime place of devotion, where is
kept one of the thorns of our Saviour's crown, and a piece
of the real cross ; excellent paintings on glass, and some
few statues of stone and wood, which they show for
curiosities. Hence, we went forward to La Pahse, a
village that lodged us that night.
26th. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our
guide, and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me
one of the pleasantest and most agreeable places ima-
ginable, for a retired person : for, besides the situa-
tion on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheap and
abundant. It being late when we left this town, we rode
no farther than Tarare that night (passing St. Saforin), a
little desolate village in a valley near a pleasant stream,
encompassed with fresh meadows and vineyards. The
hills which we rode over before we descended, and after-
wards, on the Lyons side of this place, are high and
mountainous ; fir and pines growing frequently on them.
The air methought was much altered, as well as the
manner of the houses, which are built flatter, more after
the eastern manner. Before I went to bed, I took a land-
scape of this pleasant terrace. There followed a most
Adolent tempest of thunder and lightning.
27th. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, which being but
six leagues we soon accomplished, having made eighty-five
leagues from Tours in seven days. Here, at the Golden
Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of my acquaintance,
who, coming from Paris, were designed for Italy. We
lost no time in seeing the city, because of being ready to
accompany these gentlemen in their journey. Lyons is
excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers Soane
and Rhone, which wash the walls of the city in a very
rapid stream ; each of these has its bridge ; that over the
Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high
cliffs, called St. Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately ;
on one of them stands a strong fort, garrisoned. We
visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest
clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The
fabric of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St.
Etienne and St. Croix. From the top of one of the
towers of St. Jean (for it has four) we beheld the whole
city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps,
78 DIARY OP [tienne,
many leagues distant. The Archbisliop's Palace is fairly
built. The church of St, Nisier is the greatest ; that of
the Jacobins is well built. Here are divers other fine
churches and very noble buildings we had not time to
visit, only that of the Charity, or great hospital for poor
infirm people, entertaining about 1500 souls, with a school,
granary, gardens, and all conveniences, maintained at a
wonderful expense, worthy seeing. The place of the Belle
Cour is very spacious, observable for the view it affords, so
various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens,
precipices, and other extravagant and incomparable advan-
tages, presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is
set with fair trees. In fine, this stately, clean, and noble
city, built all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and
rich merchants : those of Florence pbtaining great privi-
leges above the rest. In the Town-house, they show two
tables of brass, on which is engraven Claudius's speech,
pronounced to the Senate, concerning the franchising of
the town, with the Roman privileges. There are also other
antiquities.
30th. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to
Avignon on the river, and got the first night to Vienne,
in Dauphine. This is an Archbishopric, and the province
gives title to the Heir-apparent of France. Here we
supped and lay, having, amongst other dainties, a dish of
truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog
trained to it, and for which those animals are sold at a
great price. It is in truth an incomparable meat. We
were shewed the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty entire;
and many handsome palaces, especially that of Pontius
Pilate, not far from the town, at the foot of a solitary
mountain, near the river, having four pinnacles. Here it
is reported he passed his exile, and precipitated himself
into the lake not far from it. The house is modern, and
seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a very
pleasant, though melancholy place. The cathedral of
Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are many other pretty
buildings, but nothing more so, than the mills where they
tammer and pohsh the sword-blades.
Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is
so rapid that the boat was only steered) to a small village
called Theinj where we dined. Over-against this is another
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 79
town, named Tournon, where is a very strong castle under
a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits' College,
who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting^
that I could not forbear designing it with my crayon.
We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the
title of a Duchy; but the Bishop is now sole Lord tem-
poral of it, and the country about it. The town having a
University famous for the study of the civil law, is much
frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest, hav-
ing been greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The
streets are full of pretty fountains. The citadel is strong
and garrisoned. Here we passed the night, and the next
morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of twenty-two
arches ; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were,
to receive the water when it is high and fall. Here we
went on shore, it being very dangerous to pass the bridge
in a boat.
Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a
distance the town and principality of Orange; and, lodging
one night on the way, we arrived at noon at Avignon.
This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the time
of Clement V. ; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen
of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at
the guard took our pistols and carbines, and examined us
very strictly ; after that, having obtained the Governor's
and the Vice-Legate's leave to tarry three days, we were
civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the
Rhone, and divided from the newer part, or town, which is
on the other side of the river, by a very fair stone bridge
(which has been broken) ; at one end is a very high rock,
on which is a strong castle well furnished with artillery.
The walls of the city are of large square free-stone, the
most neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well-
built palaces ; those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop
being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous
churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St. Martial,
wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most
observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celes-
tines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich: but for nothing
I more admired it than the tomb of Madonna Laura, the
celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the Arsenal, the
Pope's Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here
^5 DIARY OP [MARSEILLES,
are distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much
renowned for the sohtude of Petrarch, we beheld from the
castle; but could not go to visit it for want of time,
being now taking mules and a guide for Marseilles.
"We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix,
having passed that extremely rapid and dangerous river of
Durance. In this tract, all the heaths, or commons, are
covered with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and the like
sweet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was
very pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a
Parhament and Presidential town, with other royal Courts
and Metropolitan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses
very high, and the streets ample. The Cathedral, St.
Saviour's, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable figures,
especially that of St. Michael ; the Baptisterie, the Palace,
the Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair.
The Duke of Gmse's house is worth seeing, being fur-
nished with many antiquities in and about it. The
Jesuits have here a royal College, and the City is a Uni-
versity.
7th October. "We had a most dehcious journey to Mar-
seilles, through a country sweetly decHning to the south
and Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive-yards,
orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and the like sweet
plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas to
the number of above 1500, built all of freestone, and in
prospect shewing as if they were so many heaps of snow
dropped out of the clouds amongst those perennial greens.
It was almost at the shutting of the gates that we arrived.
Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant rising ground,
%vell-walled, with an excellent port for ships and galleys,
secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across the harbour
at pleasure; and there is a well-fortified tower with three
other forts, especially that built on a rock; but the castle
commanding the city is that of Notre Dame de la Garde.
In the chapel hung up divers crocodiles' skins.
"We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty-
five in number; the Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us
most courteous entertainment in his cabin, the slaves in
the interim playing both loud and soft music very rarely.
Then he shewed us how he commanded their motions with
n nod, and his whistle making them row out. The spec-
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. ^j^
tacle was to me new and strange, to see so many hundreds
of miserably naked persons, their heads being shaven close
and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvass
drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained
about their middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to
their seats, and all commanded in a trice by an imperious
and cruel seaman. One Turk amongst the rest he much
favoured, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no
other dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his
leg, but not coupled. This galley was richly carved and
gilded, and most of the rest were very beautiful. After
bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a
band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged.
I was amazed to contemplate how these miserable caitiffs
lie in their galley crowded together ; yet there was hardly
one but had some occupation, by which, as leisure and
calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as
some of them have, after many years of cruel servitude,
been able to purchase their liberty. The rising-forward
and falling-back at their oar, is a miserable spectacle, and
the noise of their chains, with the roaring of the beaten
waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one
unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by
strokes on their backs and soles of their feet, on the least
disorder, and without the least humanity, yet are they
cheerful and full of knavery.
After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where
is that saint's head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600
pounds. Thence to Notre Dame, exceedingly well-built,
which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke of Guise's
Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Roi;
but nothing is more strange than the great number of
slaves working in the streets, and carrying burthens, with
their confused noises, and jingling of their huge chains.
The chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs out of
Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are
brought hither in great numbers. The town is governed
by four captains, has three consuls and one assessor, three
judges royal; the merchants have a judge for ordinary
causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and
consulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of
the Picaroon Turks, who make prize of many small
VOL. I. o
g^ DIARY OP [nice,
vessels about these parts ; we not finding a galley bound
for Genoa, whither we were designed.
9th. We took mules, passing the first night very
late in sight of St. Baujne, and the solitary grot where
they affirm Mary Magdalen did her penance. The next
day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built on an old foundation ;
witness the ruins of a most stately amphitheatre, which I
went out to design, being about a flight-shot from the
town ; they call it now the K-olsies. There is also a strong
tower near the town, called the Visone, but the town and
city are at some distance from each other. It is a bishop-
ric; has a cathedral; with divers noblemen's houses in
sight of the sea. The place was formerly called Forum
Julij, well known by antiquaries.
10th. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct.
The soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare
simples.
11th. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the
Mediterranean ; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us
to Genoa, and, ha\dng procured a bill of health (without
which there is no admission at any town in Italy), we
embarked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of St.
Margaret and St. Honore, lately re-taken from the Spa-
niards with great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here,
having paid some small duty, we bought some trifles
offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore.
Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is
the utmost town in France. Thence by Nice, a city in
Savoy, built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant
appearance towards the sea, having a very high castle
which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called
Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus
Herculis, when, arriving after the gates were shut, we were
forced to abide all night in the barge, which was put into
the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning,
we were hastened away, having no time permitted us by
our avaricious master to go up and see this strong and
considerable place, which now belongs to a prince of the
family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and
himself under the protection of the French. The situation
is on a promontory of soHd stone and rock. The town-
waUs very fair. We were told that within it was an ample
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 83
court, and a palace, furnished \vitli the most rich and
princely moveables, and a collection of statues, pictures,
and massy plate to an immense amount.
We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first
city of the repubhc of Genoa ; supped at Oneglia, where
we anchored and lay on shore. The next morning, we
coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where
the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons,
and date-trees ; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morn-
ing, by Diano, Araisso, famous for the best coral fishing,
growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and continually
covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair
and strong town belonging to the king of Spain, for which
reason a monsieur in our vessel was extremely afraid, as was
the patron of our bark, for they frequently catch French
prizes, as they creep by these shores to go into Italy ; he
therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the protec-
tion of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and
in whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona,
a town built at the rise of the Apennines; for all this
coast (except a little of St. Hemo) is a high and steep
mountainous ground, consisting all of rock-marble, without
any grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange
object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast
on the decHvities of these precipices, and by what steps
the inhabitants ascend to them. The rock consists of all
sorts of the most precious marbles.
Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley we encountered
a little foul weather, which made us creep terra, terra, as
they call it, and so a vessel that encountered us advised us
to do; but our patron, striving to double the point of
Savona, making out into the wind put us into great
hazai'd ; for, blowing very hard from land betwixt those
horrid gaps of the mountains, it set so violently, as raised
on the sudden so great a sea, that we could not recover
the weather-shore for many hours, insomuch that, what
with the water already entered, and the confusion of
fearful passengers, (of which one who was an Irish bishop,
and his brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the
article of death), we were almost abandoned to despair,
our pilot himself giving us up for lost. And now, as we
were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost
o 2
84, DIARY OF [GENOA,
sinking, it pleased God, on the sudden to appease tlie
wind, and with much ado and great peril we recovered the.
shore, which we now kept in view within half a league in
sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those
fragrant orchards which are on this coast, fall of princely
retirements for the sumptuousness of their buildings and
nobleness of the plantations, especially those at St. Pietro
d' Arena ; from whence, the wind blowing as it did, might
perfectly be smelt thepecuharjoysof Italy in the perfumes,
of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers leagues,
seaward.*
16th. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or watch-
tower, built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole
of Genoa, the weather being still so foul that for twa
hours at least we durst not stand into the haven. Towards,
evening, we adventured, and came on shore by the Prat-
tique-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics,
we were had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names-
being taken, we were conducted to our inn, kept by one
Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never forget a story
of our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, told
us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he afiirmed
solemnly, in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the
West Indies, that he swam no less than twenty-two
leagues to another island, with a tinder-box wrapped up
in liis hair, which was not so much as wet all the way ;.
that picking up the carpenter^s tools with other provisions
in a chest, he and the carpenter, who accompanied him,
(good swimmers it seems both) floated the chest before
them ; and, arriving at last in a place full of wood, they
built another vessel, and so escaped ! After this story,
we no more talked of our danger, Zachary put us quite
down.
17th. Accompanied by a most courteous marchand, called
Tomson, we went to %dew the rarities. The city is built
in the hollow or bosom of a mountain, whose ascent is
very steep, high, and rocky, so that, from the Lantern and
Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a theatre ; the
streets and buildings so ranged one above another, as
• Mr. Evelyn was so struck with this circumstance of the fragrancy of
the air of tliis coast, that he has noticed it again in his dedication of the
** Fumifiigium " to King Charles the Second.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 85
our seats are in play-houses ; but, from their materials,
beauty, and structure, never was an artificial scene more
beautiful to the eye, nor is any place, for the size of it,
so full of "well-designed and stately palaces, as may be
■easily concluded by that rare book in a large folio which
the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens, has pub-
lished, though it contains [the description of] only one
street and two or three churches.
The first palace we went to \dsit was that of Hieronymo
del Negros, to which we passed by boat across the harbour.
Here I could not but observe the sudden and devihsh
passion of a seaman, who plying us was intercepted by
another fellow, that interposed his boat before him and
took us in ; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put
his finger in his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint,
showing it to his antagonist as an assurance to him of
some bloody revenge, if ever he came near that part of
the harbour again. Indeed, this beautiful city is more
stained with such horrid acts of revenge and murders,
than any one place in Europe, or haply in the world, where
there is a political government, which makes it unsafe to
strangers. It is made a galley matter to carry a knife
whose point is not broken off.
This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest
pictures ; on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove
of stately trees, amongst which are sheep, shepherds, and
wild beasts, cut very artificially in a grey stone ; fountains,
rocks, and fish-ponds : casting your eyes one way, you would
imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country ; side-
ways, in the heart of a great city ; and backwards, in the
midst of the sea. All this is within one acre of ground.
In the house, I noticed those red-plaster floors which are
made so hard, and kept so polished, that for some time
one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I
have frequently wondered that we never practised this
{art] in England for cabinets and rooms of state,* for it
appears to me beyond any invention of that kind ; but by
their careful covering them with canvass and fine mat-
tresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they
♦ There are such at Hardwick Hall, in Derbyshire, a seat of the Duke oi
Devonshire's.
86 DIARY OF [GENOA,
are not lasting in their glory, and haply they are often
repaired.
There are numerous other palaces of particular curio-
sities, for the marchands being very rich, have, like our
neighbours^ the Hollanders, little or no extent of ground
to employ their estates in : as those in pictures and hang-
ings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich furni-
ture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the
Prince Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit
of the mountains. The house is most magnificently built
without, nor less gloriously furnished within, having whole
tables* and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them set
with agates, onyxes, cornehans, lazulis, pearls, turquoises,
and other precious stones. The pictures and statues are
innumerable. To this palace belong three gardens, the
first whereof is beautified with a terrace, supported by
pillars of marble : there is a fountain of eagles, and one of
Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white
marble; they stand in a most ample basin of the same
stone. At the side of this garden is such an aviary as Sir
Francis Bacon describes in his Sermones fidelium, or Essays,
wherein grow trees of more than two feet diameter, besides
cypress, myrtles, lentsicuses, and other rare shrubs, which
serve to nestle and perch all sorts of birds, who have air
and place enough under their airy canopy, supported with
huge iron work, stupendous for its fabric and the charge*
The other two gardens are full of orange-trees, citrons,,
and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and statues. One of
the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under which is the sepulchre
of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family
received of the King of Spain 500 crowns a-year, during
the life of that faithful animal. The reservoir of water
here is a most admirable piece of art ! and so is the grotto-
over-against it.
We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where i&-
also the Court of Justice ; thence to the Marchant's Walk,,
rarely covered. Nearf the Ducal Palace we saw the
pubhc armoury, which was almost all new, most neatly
kept and ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were
* One of which, Lassells says, weighed 24,000 lbs. « Voyage through.
Italy," 1670, p. 94.
t Lassells says, in the Palace. '
1644.] ; JOHN EVELYN. ^
shewed many rare inventions and engines of war peculiar
to that armoury, as in the state when guns were first
put in use. The garrison of the town chiefly consists of
Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built
wholly of polished marble, was designed by E-ubens, and
for stateliness of the buildings, paving, and evenness of
the street, is far superior to any in Europe, for the number
of houses j that of Don Carlo Doria is a most magnificent
structure. In the gardens of the old Marquess Spinola, I
saw huge citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our
apricots to the walls. The churches are no less splendid
than the palaces : that of St. Francis is wholly built of
Parian marble; St. Laurence, in the middle of the city,
of white and black polished stone, the inside wholly in-
crusted with marble and other precious materials ; on the
altar of St. John stand four sumptuous columns of por-
phyry ; and here we were shewed an emerald, supposed
to be one of the largest in the world.* The church of
St. Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished,
exceed all the rest ; and that of the Annunciada, founded
at the charges of one family,t in the present and future
design can never be outdone for cost and art. From the
churches we walked to the Mole, a work of sohd huge
stone, stretching itself near 600 paces into the main sea,
and secures the harbour, heretofore of no safety. Of all
the wonders of Italy, for the art and nature of the design,
nothing parallels this. J We passed over to the Pharos,
or Lantern, a tower of very great height. Here we took
horses, and made the circuit of the city as far as the new
walls, built of a prodigious height, and with Herculean
industry; witness those vast pieces of whole mountains
which they have hewn away, and blown up with gun-
powder, to render them steep and inaccessible. They are
not much less than twenty English miles in extent, §
* Lassells calls it a great dish, in which they say here that our Saviour
ate the Paschal Lamb with his Disciples ; but he adds that he finds no autho-
rity for it in any Ancient writer, and the Venerable Bede writes, that the dish
used by our Saviovu- was of silver. Of an authentic relic of St. John ho
observes that Baronius writes credibly.
+ Two brothers, named Lomellini, allow the third part of their gains.
— Lassells.
J The break-water at Plymouth is at least as stupendous a work.
§ Lassells says, finished in eighteen months, and yet six miles in com-
pass.—P. 83.
gg DIARY OF [pisA,
reaching beyond the utmost buildings of the city. From
one of these promontories we could easily discern the
island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward, we saw
a vale having a great torrent running through a most
desolate barren country ; and then turning our eyes more
northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro d^ Arena,
which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retire-
ments of the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much pain,
we descended towards the Arsenal, where the galleys lie
in excellent order.
The inhabitants of this city are much affected to the
Spanish mode and stately garb.* From the narrowness
of the streets, they use sedans and litters, and not coaches.
19th. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno, or
Leghorn ; but the sea running very high, we put in at
Porto Venere, which we made with peril, between two
narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with
great velocity ; but we were soon delivered into as great
a calm and a most ample harbour, being in the Golfo
di Spetia. From hence, we could see Pliny's Delphini
Promontorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that
famous city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris,
being about two leagues over, more resembling a lake
than a haven, but defended by castles and excessive high
mountains. We landed at Lerici, where, being Sunday,
was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the
streets in solemn devotion. After dinner, we took post-
horses, passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the
way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, but afterwards
pleasant. Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana
and Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and
lodged in an obscure inn, at a place called Viregio. The
next morning, we arrived at Pisa, where I met my old
friend, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come
• Thus described by Lassells : "broad hats without hat-bands, broad
leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow breeches, with long-waisted doublets
and hanging sleeves. The great ladies go in guard infantas (child-preservers) ;
that is, in horrible overgrown vertigals of whalebone, which being put about
the waist of the lady, and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with
her hands, bear out her coats in such a manner, that she appears to be as
broad as long. The men look like tumblers that leap through hoops, and the
women Uke those that anciently danced the hobby-horse in country mummings."
—P. 96.
1644] JOHN EVELYN. 89
out of Spain, and from whose company I never parted till
more than a year after.
The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing, as any in
Italy ; it has contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia,
Sicily, and even Carthage. The palace and church of
St. Stefano (where the order of knighthood called by that
name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside
thereof being altogether of pohshed marble ; within, it is
full of tables relating to this Order; over which hang
diA^ers banners and pendants, with other trophies taken by
them from the Turks, against whom they are particularly
obliged to fight ; though a religious order, they are per-
mitted to marry. At the front of the palace, stands a
fountain, and the statue of the great Duke Cosmo. The
Campanile, or Settezonio, built by John Venipont, a
German, consists of several orders of pillars, thirty in a
row, designed to be much higher. It stands alone on the
right side of the cathedral, strangely remarkable for this,
that the beholder would expect it to fall, being built ex-
ceedingly declining, by a rare address of the architect;
and how it is supported from falling I think would puzzle
a good geometrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, standing
near it, is a superb structure, beautified with six columns
of great antiquity; the gates are of brass, of admirable
workmanship. The cemetery called Campo Santo, is made
of divers galley ladings of earth formerly brought from
Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume
dead bodies in forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble
arches ; and here lies buried the learned Philip Decius,
who taught in this University. At one side of this church,
stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which
heretofore contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to
Caesar. It is placed, as I remember, on a pillar of opal
stone, with divers other antique urns. Near this, and in
the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built
of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a
cupola, that the voice uttered under it seems to break out
of a cloud. The font and pulpit, supported by four lions,
is of inestimable value for the preciousness of the materials.
The place where these buildings stand they call the Area.
Hence, we went to the College, to which joins a gallery so
furnished with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells.
^ DIARY OP [LEGHORN,
dried animals, skeletons, &c., as is hardly to be seen in
Italy. To this the Physic Garden lies, where is a noble
palm-tree, and very fine water-works. The river Arno
runs through the middle of this stately city, whence the
main street is named Lung 'Arno. It is so ample that
the Duke's galleys, built in the arsenal here, are easily
conveyed to Livorno ; over the river is an arch, the like
of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is no-
where in Europe. The Duke has a stately Palace, before
which is placed the statue of Ferdrriand the Third ; over
against it is the Exchange, built of marble. Since this
city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has been
much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy any
which exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of it
is low and flat ; but the inhabitants have spacious gardens,
and even fields within the walls.
21st. We took coach to Livorno, through the Great
Duke's new park full of huge cork-trees, the underwood
all myrtles, amongst which were many bufl'aloes feeding,
a kind of wdd ox, short-nose with horns reversed -, those
who work with them command them, as our bear-wards
do the bears, with a riug through the nose, and a cord.
Much of this park, as well as a great part of the country
about it, is very fenny, and the air very bad.
Leghorn is the prime port belonging to aU the Duke's
territories ; heretofore a very obscure town, but since
Duke Feminand has strongly fortified it (after the modern
way), drained the marshes by cutting a channel thence to
Pisa navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole,
emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is
become a place of great receipt ; it has also a place for the
galleys, where they lie safe. Before the sea is an ample
piazza for the market, where are the statues in copper of
the four slaves, much exceeding the life for proportion,
and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best
pieces of modern work.* Here, especially in this piazza,
is such a concourse of slaves, Turks, JSIoors, and other
nations, that the number and confusion is prodigious;
some buying, others selling, others drinking, others play-
" They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to liave rowed it them-
selves ; but were taken in this great enterprise. — Lassells, p. 233.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. g3_
ing, some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing,
weeping, all nearly naked, and miserably chained. Here
was a tent, where any idle fellow might stake his liberty
against a few crowns, at dice, or other hazard ; and, if he
lost, he was immediately chained and led away to the gal-
leys, where he was to serve a term of years, but from
whence they seldom returned : many sottish persons, in a
drunken bravado, would try their fortune in this way.
The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and
excellently painted a fresco on the outer walls, with
representations of many of their victories over the Turks.
The houses, though low on account of the earthquakes
which frequently happen here, (as did one during my
being in Italy), are very well built ', the piazza is very
fair and commodious, and, with the church, whose four
columns at the portico are of black marble polished, gave
the first hint to the building both of the church and
piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly
pursued.
22nd. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where
we lay, and the next day arrived at Florence, being
recommendedtothehouseof SignorBaritiere, in the Piazza
del Spirito Santo, where we were exceedingly well treated.
Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the west part
full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified
with more than a thousand houses and country palaces
of note, belonging to gentlemen of the town. The river
Amo runs through this city, in a broad, but very shallow
channel, dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and over it
are four most sumptuous bridges, of stone. On that nearest
to our quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble ; on
another are the goldsmiths' shops ; at the head of the
former stands a column of ophite, upon which a statue of
Justice, with her balance and sword, cut out of porphyry,
and the more remarkable for being the first which had
been carved out of that hard material, and brought to
perfection, after the art had been utterly lost ; they say
this was done by hardening the tools in the juice of
certain herbs. This statue was erected in that corner,
because there Cosmo was first saluted with the news of
Sienna being taken.
Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely
92 DIARY OF [florencf,
piece of architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of
Pitti was built by that family, but of late greatly beauti-
fied by Cosmo with huge square stones of the Doric,
Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each
side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that
ends in a cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a
\ista to the gardens. Nothing is more admirable than
the vacant staircase, marbles, statues, urns, pictures,
court, grotto, and water-works. In the quadrangle is a
huge jetto of water in a volto of four faces, with noble
statues at each square, especially the Diana of porphyry
above the grotto. We were here showed a prodigious
great loadstone.
The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves,
aviaries, vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos,
the middle basin being one of the longest stones I ever
saw. Here is everything to make such a Paradise
dehghtful. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an
orange-tree. There was much topiary-work, and columns
in architecture about the hedges. The Duke has added
an ample laboratory, over-against which stands a fort on
Si hiU, where they told us his treasure is kept. In this
Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss
guards, after the frugal Italian way, and even selHng what
he can spare of his wines, at the cellar under his very
house, wicker bottles danghng over even the chief entrance
into the Palace, serving for a vintner's bush.
In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary
are most rich, and full of precious stones ; there are four
pillars of a kind of serpentine, and some of blue. Hence
we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called Palazzo
Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael
Angelo, and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of
Baccio Bandinelli. The quadrangle about this is of the
Corinthian order, and in the hall are many rare marbles,
as those of Leo the Tenth and Clement VII., both Popes
of the Medicean family ; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare
painting. In the chapel is kept (as they woidd make one
beheve) the original Gospel of St. John, written with his
own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and
divers precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower
like that of Pisa, always threatening ruin.
1C44.] JOHN EVELYN. 93
Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men
to walk in, and over that, the shops of divers rare artists
■who continually work for the great Duke. Above this is
that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or Repository, wherein are
hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and
metal, vases of porphyry, &c. ; but amongst the statues
none so famous as the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of
Apollo, brought from the Delphic Temple, and two tri-
umphant columns. Over these hang the pictures of the
most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or arms,
to the number of 300, taken out of the museum of Paulus
Jovius. They then led us into a large square room, in
the middle of which stood a cabinet of an octangular
form, so adorned and furnished with crystals, agates, and
sculptures, as exceeds any description. This cabinet is
called the Tribuna, and in it is a pearl as big as an hazel
nut.* The cabinet is of ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over
the door is a round of M. Angelo ; on the cabinet, Leo
the Tenth, with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto,
Perugino, and Coreggio, viz. a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy,
two Apostles, two heads of Durer, rarely carved. Over
this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently carved; the
Labours of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incom-
parable pictures in small. There is another, which had
about it eight Oriental columns of alabaster, on each
whereof was placed a head of a Caesar, covered with a
canopy so richly set -svith precious stones, that they re-
sembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Saviour^s
Passion, and the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet
was valued at two hundred thousand crowns. In another,
with calcedon pillars, was a series of golden medals.
Here' is also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed with a
tortoise-shell, and containing a collection of gold medals
esteemed worth 50,000 crowns; a wreathed pillar of ori-
ental alabaster, divers paintings of Da Vinci, Pontorno,
del Sarto, an Ecce Homo of Titian, a Boy of Bronzini, &c.
They shewed us a branch of coral fixed on the rock, which
they affirm does still grow. In another room, is kept
the Tabernacle appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence,
* Sir Gore Ouseley brought from Persia a picture of the Khan, which, in
1816, was in his house in Bruton-street, on whose dress are represented
peai'ls of such a size, as to make the one here spoken of very insigmficant.
§§ DIARY OP [floeence,
about which are placed small statues of Saints, of precious
materials ; a piece of such art and cost, that, having been
these forty years in perfecting, it is one of the most curious
things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra
Commesso, which is a marble ground inlaid with several
sorts of marbles and stones of various colours, represent-
ing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and landscapes. In one is
represented the town of Leghorn, by the same hand who
inlaid the altar of St. Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of
whom I purchased nineteen pieces of the same work for a
cabinet. In a press near this they shewed an iron nail,
one half whereof being converted into gold by one Thum-
heuser, a German chymist, is looked on as a great rarity ;
but it plainlj'^ appeared to have been soldered together.
There is a curious watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as
an egg, on which is carved an emperor^s head.
In the armoury are kept many antique habits, as those
of Chinese kings ; the sword of Charlemagne ; Hannibal's
head-piece ; a loadstone of a yard long, which bears up
861bs weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such as
the slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare
turneries in ivory, as are not to be described for their
curiosity. There is a fair pOlar of oriental alabaster;
twelve vast and complete services of silver plate, and one of
gold, all of excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered
saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke ; and
here is that embroidered chair set with precious stones in
which he sits, when, on St. John's day, he receives the
tribute of the cities.
25th. We went to the Portico where the famous
statue of Judith and Holofemes stands, also the Medusa,
all of copper ; but what is most admirable is the Hape of
a Sabine, with another man under foot, the confusion and
turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one
entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most
stupendous ; this stands directly against the great piazza,
where, to adorn one fountain, are erected four marble
statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune and his
family of sea-gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with foiu*
sea-horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst
of a very great basin; a work, I think, hardly to be
paralleled. Here is also the famous statue of David, by
1644.] JOHN ETELYN. 95
M. Angelo ; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli; the
Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of Dona-
telli, which stand publicly before the old Palace with the
Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Near this
stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in brass on a
pedestal of marble, and four copper basso-relievos by John
di Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the
First, on horseback, is of Peitro Tacca. The brazen boar,
which serves for another pubhc fountain, is admirable.
After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annun-
ciata, where the Duke and his Court were at their
devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute for
sanctity: for here is a shrine that does great miracles,
[proved] by innumerable votive tablets, &c. covering
almost the walls of the whole church. This is the image
of Gabriel, who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and which the
artist finished so well, that he was in despair of per-
forming the Virgin's face so well; whereupon it was
miraculously done for him whilst he slept ; but others say
it was painted by St. Luke himself. Whoever it was,
infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar is
set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted
by thirty great silver lamps. There are innumerable
other pictures by rare masters. Our Saviour's Passion in
brass tables inserted in marble, is the work of John di
Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli.
To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted
in fresco very rarely. There is also near it an hospital for
1000 persons, with nurse-children, and several other cha-
ritable accommodations.
At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of
the finest horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs,
Gennets, English, &c., which are continually exercised in
the manege.
Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts,
as wolves, cats, bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose
in a deep walled court, and therefore to be seen with
more pleasure than those at the Tower of London, in their
grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height, to
catch a joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down.
* There are many plain brick towers erected for defence,
• Tliere seems to be an omission in tlie MS. as to their leaving Florence
and going to Sienna.
96 DIARY OF [siENNv
when this was a free state. The highest is called the
Mangio, standing at the foot of the piazza which we went
first to see after our arrival. At the entrance of this
tower is a chapel open towards the piazza, of marble well-
adorned with sculpture.
On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice,
well built a la moderna, of brick; indeed the bricks of
Sienna are so well made, that they look almost as weU as
porphyry itself, having a kind of natural polish.
In the Senate-House is a very fair Hall where they
sometimes entertain the people with public shows and
operas, as they call them. Towards the left are the
statues of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of
brass, placed on a column of ophite stone, which they
report was brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple.
These ensigns being the arms of the town, are set up in
divers of the streets and public ways both within and far
without the city.
The piazza compasses the facciata of the court and
chapel, and, being made with descending steps, much
resembles the figure of an escalop-shell. The white ranges-
of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks above
mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved,,
render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it
is) are many fair palaces, though not built with excess of
elegance. There stands an arch, the work of Baltazzar di
Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not
easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some im-
perceptible contignations, which do not betray themselves
easily to the eye. On the edge of the piazza is a goodly
fountain beautified with statues, the water issuing out of
the wolves' mouths, being the work of Jacobo Quercei, a
famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in
the city, of good design.
After this, we walked to the Sapienza, which is the
University, or rather College, where the high Germans
enjoy many particular privileges when they addict them-
selves to the civil law : and indeed this place has produced
many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alex-
ander, Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned ^neas
Sylvius ; and both were of the ancient house of the Pic-
colomini.
1644.3 JOHN EVELYN. 97
The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which
Pius II. has built a most stately Palace of square stone
with an incomparable portico joining near to it. The town
is commanded by a castle which hath four bastions and
a garrison of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in,
much frequented by the gallants in summer.
Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the
Dominicans, where in the chapel of St. Catherine of
Sienna they show her head, the rest of her body being
translated to Rome, The Duomo, or Cathedral, both
without and within, is of large square stones of black and
white marble pohshed, of inexpressible beauty, as is the
front adorned with sculpture and rare statues. In the
middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry
streaked coloured marble. About the body of the church,
on a cornice within, are inserted the heads of all the
Popes. The pulpit is beautified with marble figures, a
piece of exquisite work; but what exceeds all description
is the pavement, where (besides the various emblems and
other figures in the nave) the choir is wrought with the
history of the Bible, so artificially expressed in the natural
colours of the marbles, that few pictures exceed it. Here
stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on the large
high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and
art. The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned.
On the left side of the altar is the library, where are
painted the acts of ^neas Sylvius, and others by Raphael.
They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist where-
with, they say, he baptized our Saviour in Jordan ; it was
given by the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes,
as an inscription testifies. They have also St. Peter's
sword, with which he smote off the ear of Malchus.
Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital,
where they entertain and refresh for three or four days,
gratis, such pilgrims as go to Rome. In the chapel
belonging to it hesthe body of St. Susorius, their founder,
as yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years.
They show one of the nails which pierced our Saviour,
and St. Chrysostom's Comment on the Gospel, written by
his own hand. .Below the hill stands the pool called
Fonte Brand e, where fish are fed for pleasure more than
food.
VOL. I. H
gg DIARY OF [sT. QuiRico,
St. Francis's Churcli is a large pile, near which, yet a
little without the city, grows a tree which they report in
their legend grew jfrom the Saint's staff, which on going
to sleep he fixed in the ground, and at his waking found
it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of
it in decoction cures sundry diseases.
2nd November. We went from Sienna, desirous of being
present at the cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent X.* who
had not yet made the grand procession to St. John di Late-
rano. We set out by Porto Romano, the country all
about the town being rare for hunting and game. Wild
boar and venison are frequently sold in the shops in many
of the towns about it. We passed near Monte Oliveto,
where the monastery of that Order is pleasantly situated,
and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge, which by the
inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias,
we went through Buon-Convento, famous for the death of
the Emperor, Henry VII., who was here poisoned with
the holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to Torrinieri, where
we dined. This village is in a sweet valley, in view of
Montalcino, famous for the rare Muscatello. f After
three miles more, we go by St. Quirico, and lay at a private
osteria near it, where, after we were provided of lodging,
came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth, now come
from Home ; he was so civil as to entertain us with great
respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us he
had been once in our country. Amongst other discourse,
he related how a dove had been seen to sit on the chair in the
Conclave at the election of Pope Innocent, which he mag-
nified as a great good omen, with other particulars which
we inquired of him, till our suppers parted us. He came
in great state with his own bedstead and all the furniture,
yet would by no means suffer us to resign the room we had
taken up in the lodging before his arrival. Next morning,
we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, Monte
Mantumiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon
peeping above any clouds with its snowy head, till we had
climbed to the inn at Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the
great Duke, for the necessary refreshment of travellers in
so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, we entered a
* John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644, died in 1655.
+ A wine.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN, 99
very thick, solid, and dark body of clouds, looking like
rocks at a little distance, which lasted near a mile in going
up ; they were dry misty vapours, hanging undissolved for
a vast thickness, and obscuring both the sun and earth, so
that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in the clouds,
till, having pierced through it, we came into a most serene
heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation,
the mountain appeariug more like a great island than
joined to any other hills ; for we could perceive nothing but
a sea of thick clouds rolling under our feet like huge waves,
every now and then suffering the top of some other mountain
to peep through, which we could discover many miles off :
and between some breaches of the clouds we could see
landscapes and villages of the subjacent country. This
was one of the most pleasant, new, and altogether sur-
prising objects that I had ever beheld.
On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a
very strong fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is a
small town ; the provisions are drawn up with ropes and
engines, the precipice being otherwise inaccessible. At
one end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely broken
off from the rugged mountain, as would affright one with
their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the
inn gushed out a plentiful and most useful fountain which
falls into a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of Tus-
cany's arms. Here we dined, and I with my black lead
pen took the prospect.* It is one of the utmost confines
of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter's Patrimony, since
the gift of Matilda to Gregory VII., as is pretended.
Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory
XIV., and thence immediately to Acquapendente,t a town
situated on a very ragged rock, down which precipitates an
entire river (which gives it the denomination), with a most
horrid roaring noise. We lay at the post-house, on which
is this inscription :
L'Insegna della Posta/e posta a posta.
In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua posta • ' '
Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta.
Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the
* An etching of it, with others, is in the library at Wotton.
i* Twelve nules from the Duke's inn, according to Lassells.
H 2
200 DIARY OF [titeubo,
Franciscans, famous for six learned Popes, and sundry other
great scholars, especially the renowned physician and ana-
tomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was bred and bom
there.
4th. After a little riding, we descend towards the Lake
of Bolsena, which, being above twenty miles in circuit,
yields from hence a most incomparable prospect, l^ear
the middle of it are two small islands, in one of which
is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where those of the
Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it Tarquiniensis
Lacus, and talks of divers floating islands about it, but they
did not appear to us. The lake is environed with moun-
tains, at one of whose sides we passed towards the town
Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in those times, as
is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St.
Christiana's church, the um, altar, and jasper columns.
After seven miles' riding, passing through a wood here-
tofore sacred to Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head
of the Falisci, a famous people in old time, and heretofore
Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, as now for
the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St.
Flavian's church with this epitaph :
Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est.
Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and
enquire where the best wine was, and there write Kst, the
man found some so good that he wrote TS,st, Est, upon the
vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of it, died.
From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant
champain to Viterbo, which presents itself with much state
afar ofi', in regard of her many lofty pinnacles and towers ;
neither does it deceive our expectation ; for it is exceedingly
beautified with public fountains, especially that at the
entrance, which is all of brass and adorned with many rare
figures, and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable
object and refreshing waters. There are many Popes
buried in this city, and in the palace is this odd inscription:
" Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc anti-
<)mssimo mannore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi Laurentij
Templo translatam, ad conversanda : vetustiss : patriae monumenta atq'
decoraliic locandum statuit S.P.Q.Y."
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 101
Under it :
Sum Osiris Rex Ju- Sam Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qui
piter universe in terra- ab Itala in Gigantes terrarum pacata Ita-
rum orbe. exercitus veni, vidi, et Ham decern a'nos quo-
vici. rum inventor fui.
Near the town is a sulphureous fountain, which conti-
nually boils. After dinner, we took horse by the new way
of Capranica, and so passing near Mount Ciminus and the
Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at which
sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon
allayed by so violent a shower which fell just as we were
contemplating that proud Mistress of the world, and
descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we entered),
that before we got into the city, I was wet to the skin.
I came to Rome on the 4th November, 1644, about five
at night ; and, being perplexed for a convenient lodging,
wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one con-
ducted us to Monsieur Petit' s, a Frenchman, near the
Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having bargained
with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good
fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so
very wet. The next morning (for I was resolved to spend
no time idly here) I got acquainted with several persons
who had long lived at Rome. I was especially recommended
to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior of his
Order for the English College of Douay, a person of sin-
gular learning, religion, and humanity ; also to Mr. Patrick
Caiy, an Abbot, brother to our learned Lord Falkland, a
witty young priest, who afterwards came over to our
church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs,* physicians who had
dependence on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excel-
lent poet; Father Courtney, the Chief of the Jesuits in the
English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother to the
Marquis of Worcester ; and some others, from whom I
received instructions how to behave in town, with directions
• James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman bred at Oxford, who resided many
years at Rome, where he died 1677, and was buried in the Pantheon there,
with an epitaph to his memory under a marble bust of him. He was an
extraordinary character. In Wood's Athense is a long account of him, and
also some curious particulars in Warton's Life of Dr. Bathurst ; he was a
great writer of Latin poetry, a small collection of which he publislied at Rome,
to which is prefixed his portrait neatly engraved.
102 DIARY OF [ROME,
to masters and books to take in search of the anti-
quities, churches, collections, &c. Accordingly, the next
day, November 6, I began to be very pragmatical.*
In the first place, our Sights-manf (for so they name
certain persons here who get their living by leading
strangers about to see the city) went to the Palace Farnese,
a magnificent square structure, built by Michael Angelo,
of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner,
and when architecture was but newly recovered from the
Gothic barbarity. The court is square and terraced, having
two pair of stairs which lead to the upper rooms, and con-
ducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine
Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art ; so
deep and well-studied are all the figures, that it would
require more judgment than I confess I had, to determine
whether they were flat, or embossed. Thence, we passed
into another, painted in chiaroscuro, representing the
fabulous history of Hercules, We went out on a terrace,
where was a pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a
place that has no extent of ground backwards. The
great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnished
with statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a
Farnese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy
of admiration. Here, we were showed the Museum of
Fulvius Ursinos, replete with innumerable collections ; but
the Major-Domo being absent, we could not at this time
see all we wished. Descending into the court, we with
astonishment contemplated those two incomparable statues
of Hercules and Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and
indeed by all antiquity, as two of the most rare pieces in
the world : there likewise stands a modem statue of Her-
cules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second
court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most stu-
pendous and never-to-be-suflficiently-admired Torso of Am-
phion and Dirce, represented in five figures, exceeding the
life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, the contend-
ing work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and Tau-
risco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire
* Mr. Evelyn must mean tliis in a good sense, very active and full of busi-
ness, viz. what he came upon, to view the antiquities and beauties of Rome.
+ The present name for these gentlemen is with the Italians a Cicerone,
but they affect universally the title of antiquaries.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 103
stone, and remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all
the marbles of the world for its antiquity and workmanship.
There are divers other heads and busts. At the entrance
of this stately palace stand two rare and vast fountains of
garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of Titus's Baths.
Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome take the Jresco in
their coaches and on foot. At the sides of this court, we
visited the Palace of Signer Pichini, who has a good collec-
tion of antiquities, especially the Adonis of Parian marble,
which my Lord Arundel would once have purchased, if a
great price would have been taken for it.
We went into the Campo Vaccina, by the ruins of the
Temple of Peace, built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought
to be the largest as well as the most richly furnished of all
the Roman dedicated places : it is now a heap rather than
a temple, yet the roof and volto continue firm, showing it
to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship.
This goodly structure was, none knows how, consumed by
iire the very night, by all computation, that our Blessed
Saviour was born.
From hence, we passed by the place into which Curtius
precipitated himself for the love of his country, now with-
out any sign of a lake, or vorago. Near this stand some
columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed to be
part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus ;
the work of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave
is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are three
other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite to these, are the ora-
tories, or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano, heretofore
the Temples of Romulus ; a pretty odd fabric, with a tri-
bunal, or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates
before it are brass, and the whole much obliged to Pope
Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie the bodies of those
two martyrs ; and, in a chapel on the right hand, is a rare
painting of Cavaliere Baghoni.
We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico
is supported by a range of most stately columns ; the
inscription cut in the architrave shows it to have been the
Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair church, and
has an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St.
Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was
pnce placed a milliary column, supposed to be set in the
104 DIARY OF [aoMC,
centre of the city, from whence they used to compute the
distance of all the cities and places of note under the
dominion of those universal monarchs. To this church are
likewise brazen gates and a noble front : just opposite we
saw the heaps and ruins of Cicero's Palace. Hence we went
towards Mons Capitolinus, at the foot of which stands the
arch of Septimius Severus, full and entire, save where the
pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up
with ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched
with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In
the terrestrial and naval battles here graven, is seen the
Roman Aries [the battering-ram] ; and this was the first
triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to wliich
we climbed by very broad steps, is built about a square
court, at the right hand of which, going up from Campo
Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the statue of
Tyber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing
Rome ; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius,
casting water into a most ample concha. The front of this
court is crowned with an excellent fabric containing the
Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and
others. In one of the halls they show the statues of
Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To
this joins a handsome tower, the whole facciata adorned with
noble statues, both on the outside and on the battlements,
ascended by a double pair of stairs, and a stately Posario.
In the centre of the court stands that incomparable
horse bearing the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the
life, of Corinthian metal, placed on a pedestal of marble,
esteemed one of the noblest pieces of work now extant,
antique and very rare. There is also a vast head of a
colossean magnitude, of white marble fixed in the wall.
At the descending stairs are set two horses of white marble
governed by two naked slaves, taken to be Castor and
Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balus-
trade, the trophies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very
ancient and instructive. At the foot of the steps towards
the left hand is that Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of
brass on it, mentioned to have been formerly set in Campo
Vaccino. On the same hand, is the Palace of the Segniori
Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of
the city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds^
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 105
(as we call them) of sundry companies, and other ofl&ces
of state. Under the portico within, are the statues of
Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna
E-ostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi relievi. In
a smaller court, the statue of Constantino, on a fountain, a
Minerva^s head of brass, and that of Commodus, to which
belongs a hand, the thumb whereof is at least an ell long,
and yet proportionable ; but the rest of the Colosse is lost.
In the corner of this court stand a horse and lion fighting,
as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valued ; like-
wise the Rape of the Sabines ; two cumbent figures of
Alexander and Mammea ; two monstrous feet of a colosse
of Apollo ; the sepulchre of Agrippina ; and the standard,
or antique measure, of the Roman foot. Ascending by the
steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos,
viz. the triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which
last, for the antiquity and rareness of the work, I caused
my painter. Carlo Neapolitano, to copy. There are also
two statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the Emperor :
above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas
bound t/f a tree ; all of them excellent and antique. Above,
in the lobby, are inserted into the walls those ancient laws,
on brass, called the Twelve Tables ; a fair Madonna of
Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall ; near which are the
archives, full of ancient records.
In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cava-
liero Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V.
and of Leo X., of marble. In another hall, are many
modem statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set
about with fine antique heads; others are painted by
excellent masters, representing the actions of M. Scsevola,
Horatius Codes, &c. — The room where the Conservatori
now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried with crimson
damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or baldu-
quino of crimson velvet, very rich ; the frieze above rarely
painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking
the wolf, of brass, with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them;
also the boy plucking the thorn out of his foot, of brass, so
much admired by artists. There are also holy statues and
heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the names
of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so
celebrated by the learned ; also the figure of an old woman;
106 DIARY OF [ROME,
two others representing Poverty ; and more in fragments.
In another large room, furnished with velvet, are the
statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In
the next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, one of another
Consul, a Hercules in brass, two women's heads of incom-
parable work, six other statues ; and, over the chimney, a
very rare basso-relievo, and other figures. In a little
lobby before the chapel, is the statue of Hannibal, a
Bacchus very antique, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with
other old heads. — All these noble statues, &c., belong to
the city, and cannot be disposed of to any private person,
or removed hence, but are preserved for the honour of the
place, though great sums have been offered for them by
divers Princes, lovers of art and antiquity. We now left
the Capitol, certainly one of the most renowned places in
the world, even as now built by the design of the famous
M. Angelo.
Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by
more than 100 marble steps, not in devotion, as I observed
some to do on their bare knees, but to see those two
famous statues of Constantine, in white marblfe, placed
there out of his baths. In this Church is a Madonna,
reported to be painted by St. Luke, and a column, on
which we saw the print of a foot, which they affirm to have
been that of the Angel, seen on the Castle of St. Angelo.
Here the feast of our Blessed Saviour's nativity being
yearly celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make
the preparation. Having viewed the Palace and fountain,
at the other side of the stairs, we returned weary to our
lodgings.
On the 7th, we went again near the Capitol, towards
the Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect of the
Tyber. Thence, descending by the Tullianum, where
they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, they showed us a
chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of it
bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the
church gushes a fountain, which they say was caused by
the Apostle's prayers, when having converted some of his
fellow -captives he wanted water to make them Christians.
The painting of the Ascension is by Raphael. We
then walked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine,
and thence to the Circus Maximus, capable of holding
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 107
40,000 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into
gardens. Then, by the Forum Boarium, where they have
a tradition that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his
temple remaining. The Temple of Janus Quadrifrons,
having four arches, importing the four Seasons, and on
each side niches for the months, is still a substantial and
pretty entire antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argen-
tariorum. Bending now towards the Tyber, we went into
the Theatre of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 per-
sons, built by Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew ; the
architecture, from what remains, appears to be inferior to
none. It is now wholly converted into the house of the
Savelli, one of the old Roman families. The people were
now generally busy in erecting temporary triumphs and
arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his
Holiness's grand procession to St. John di Laterani,
amongst which the Jews also began one in testimony of
gratitude for their protection under the Papal State. The
Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's archi-
tect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely
an object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a
double portico, at the end of which we ascended by two
pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and void in the well. One of
these led us into a stately hall, the volto whereof was newly
painted a fresco, by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il
Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely fur-
nished with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a
library full of worthy collections, medals, marbles, and
manuscripts ; but, above all, an Egyptian Osyris, remark-
able for its unknown material and antiquity. In one of
the rooms near this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian,
the original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a
copy, little inferior to the prototype ; a table, in my judg-
ment, superior to anything I had seen in Rome. In the
court is a vast broken guglia, or obehsk, having divers
hieroglyphics cut on it.
8th. We visited the Jesuit's Church, the front whereof
is esteemed a noble piece of architecture, the design
of Jacomo della Porta, and the famous Vignola. In this
church lies the body of their renowned Ignatius Loyola,
an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at the
right end of their high altar, their champion. Cardinal
108 DIARY OF [ROME,
Bellarmine. Here, Father Kircher (professor of Mathe-
matics and the oriental tongues) showed us many singular
courtesies, leading us into their refectory, dispensatory,
laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung
round with pictures of such of their order as had been
executed for their pragmatical and busy adventures) into
his own study, where, with Dutch patience, he showed us
his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical experiments,
models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most
of them since published by himself, or his industrious
scholar, Schotti.
Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de
Medicis, which was an house of the Duke of Florence
near our lodging, upon the brow of Mons Pincius, having
a fine prospect towards the Campo Marzo. It is a magni-
ficent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable,
and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens,
with two huge lions, of marble, at the end of the balustrade.
The whole outside of the facciata is incrusted with antique
and rare basso-relievos and statues. Descending into the
garden, is a noble fountain governed by a Mercuiy of
brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full of
fine statues, amongst which the Sabines, antique and
singularly rare. In the arcade near this stand twenty-
four statues of great price, and hard by is a mount planted
with cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly
fountain in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with
white marble, covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy,
and other perennial greens, divers statues and heads being
placed as in niches. At a little distance, are those famed
statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large as
the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed
among the best pieces of work in the world for the passions
they express, and all other perfections of that stupendous
art. There is likewise in this garden a fair obelisk, full of
hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain before the front
casts water near fifty feet in height, when it is received in
a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the
great horse every morning ; which gave me much diversion
from the terrace of my own chamber, where I could see all
their motions. This evening, I was invited to hear rare
music at the Chi^sa Nova y the black marble pillars within
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 109
led US to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius,
tlieir founder ; they being of the oratory of secular priests,
under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures, as
the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix ; the
Visitation of Elizabeth ; the Presentation of the Blessed
Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Bheno, Caravaggio,
Arpino, and others. This fair church consists of fourteen
altars, and as many chapels. In it is buried (besides their
Saint) Caesar Baronius, the great annalist. Through this,
we went into the sacrista, where, the tapers being lighted,
one of the Order preached ; after him stepped up a child
of eight, or nine years old, who pronounced an oration
with so much grace, that I never was better pleased than
to hear Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This
course it seems they frequently use, to bring their scholars
to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action
and assurance, which none so much want as ours in
England. This being finished, began their motettos, which,
in a lofty cupola richly painted, were sung by eunuchs,
and other rare voices, accompanied by theorboes, harpsi-
chords, and viols, so that Ave were even ravished with the
entertainment of the evening. This room is painted by
Cortona, and has in it two figures in the niches, and the
church stands in one of the most stately streets of Rome.
10th. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa, where
was formerly the Viridarium of the poet, Sallust. The
house is very magnificent, and the extent of the ground
exceedingly large, considering that it is in a city ; in
every quarter of the garden are antique statues, and walks
planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a house
of retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a par-
ticular ordonnance, especially the staircase. The whiteness
and smoothness of the excellent pargeting was a thing
I much observed, being almost as even and polished, as if
it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the
city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of
Bassano, the one a Vulcan, the other a Nativity ; there is
a German clock full of rare and extraordinary motions;
and, in a little room below, are many precious marbles,
columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental
alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is
an ample area, environed with sixteen vast jars of red
1]0 DIARY OF [ROME,
earth, wherein the Romans used to preserve their oil, or
wine rather, which they buried, and such as are properly
called test(B. In the Palace I must never forget the famous
statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much
followed by all the rare artists as the many copies testify,
dispersed through almost all Europe, both in stone and
metal. There is also a Hercules,,a head of porphyry, and
one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man^s
body flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble,
as it was found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to
one of the Popes ; it lay in a chest, or coffin, lined with
black velvet, and one of the arms being broken, you may
see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire.
The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white,
the work of Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innume-
rable small brass figures, and other curiosities. But what
some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich
bedstead (which sort of gross furniture the Italians much
glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in
their inlaid wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious
stones and antique heads, onyxes, agates, and cornelians,
esteemed to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. Here are also
divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides
pictures in the gallery, especially the Apollo — a conceited
chair to sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks,
and pieces of wood to draw out longer or shorter.
From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni's study,
who very courteously showed us such a collection of rare
medals as is hardly to be paralleled ; divers good pictures,
and many outlandish and Indian curiosities, and things
of nature.
From him, we walked to Monte CavaUo, heretofore
called Mons Quirinalis, where we saw those two rare
horses, the work of the rivals Phidias and Praxiteles,
as they were sent to Nero [by Tiridates King] out of
Armenia. They were placed on pedestals of white marble
by Sextus V., by whom I suppose their injuries were
repaired, and are governed by four naked slaves, like
those at the foot of the Capitol. Here runs a most noble
fountain, regarding four of the most stately streets for
building and beauty to be seen in any city of Europe.
Opposite to these statues is the Pope's summer palace.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. HI
built by Gregory XIII.; and, in my opinion, it is, for
largeness and the architecture, one of the most conspicuous
in E-ome, having a stately portico which leads round the
court under columns, in the centre of which there runs a
beautiful fountain. The chapel is incrusted with such
precious materials, that nothing can be more rich, or
glorious, nor are the other ornaments and moveables about
it at all inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci, and
others. The garden, which is called the Belvedere di
Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is
most excellent for air and prospect ; its exquisite fountains,
close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted
about with venerable cypresses, and refreshed with water-
music, aviaries, and other rarities.
1 2th. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whoseruins testify the
vastness of the original foundation and magnificence;
by what M. Angelo took from the ornaments about it,
^tis said he restored the then almost lostart of archi-
tectiu-e. This monstrous pile was built by the labour of
the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great
persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out
of one only of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form
of an urn with a cover.
Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise
called Fons Felix ; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble,
representing Moses striking the rock, which is adorned
with camels, men, women, and children drinking, as large
as life ; a work for the design and vastness truly magnifi-
cent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two
miles in an aqueduct by Sextus V. ex agro Columna, by
way of Prseneste as the inscription testifies. It gushes
into three ample lavers raised about with stone, before
which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, very
rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the
city's corn, and over-against it the Church of St. Susanna,
where were the gardens of Sallust. The faccikta of this
church is noble, the soffito within gilded and full of
pictures ; especially famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassa
di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite
work, from whose marble steps you descend under-ground
to the repository of divers Saints. The picture over this
J]^2 DIARY OF [ROME,
altar is the work of Jacomo Siciliano. The foundation is
for Bernadine Nuns.
Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most
ravishing front. In this church was sung the Te Deum
by Gregory XV., after the signal victory of the Emperor
at Prague ; the standards then taken still hang up, and
the impress waving this motto over the Pope's arms,
Extirpentur. I observed that the high altar was much
frequented for an image of the Virgin. It has some rare
statues : as Paul ravished into the third heaven, by Fia-
mingo, and some good pictures. From this, we bent
towards Dioclesian^s Baths, never satisfied with contem-
plating that immense pile, in building which 150,000
Christians were destined to labour fourteen years, and
were then all murdered. Here is a monastery of Carthu-
sians, called Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of
M. Angelo, and the cloister encompassing walls in an
ample garden.
Mont Alto's viUa is entered by a stately gate of stone
built on the Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious
park full of fountains, especially that which salutes us at the
front ; stews for fish ; the cypress walks are so beset with
statues, inscriptions, relievos, and other ancient marbles,
that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The citron
trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it
are innumerable collections of value. Returning, we
stepped into St. Agnes church, where there is a tribunal of
antique mosaic, and on the altar a most rich ciborio of
brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in oriental alabaster.
The church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here
they shoM^ed us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore
sacred to Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken
emblems and instruments wrought upon it. The altar is
of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had
the entire view of the Via Pia down to the two horses
before the Monte Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the
most glorious sights for state and magnificence that any
city can show a traveller. We returned by Porta Pia and
the Via Salaria, near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy
caves the wanton Vestals were heretofore immured alive.
Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street, but
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 113
very precipitous, till we came to the four fountains of
Lepidus, built at the abutments of four stately ways,
making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the
fountains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under
very large niches of stone, the water pouring into huge
basins. The church of St. Carlo is a singular fabric for
neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white stone ;
the columns are worth notice. Under it is another church
of a structure nothing less admirable.
Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the
Esquiline Mountain, which gives it a most conspicuous
face to the street at a great distance. The design is mixed,
partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that the
Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built
300 years since. The first pavement is rare and antique ;
so is the portico built by P. P. Eugenius II. The ciborio
is the work of Paris Romano, and the tribunal of Mosaic.
We were showed in the church a concha of porphyry,
wherein they say Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one
of the most famous of the seven Roman Churches, and is,
in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the most magnifi-
cent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials,
are the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of
Sextus was designed by Dom. Fontana, in which are two
rare great statues, and some good pieces of painting ; anr*
here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents*
bodies slain by Herod : as also that renowned tabernacle
of metal, gilt, sustained by four angels, holding as many
tapers, placed on the altar. In this chapel is the statue of
Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of most of his famous
acts, in Parian marble ; but that of P. Paulus, which we
next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all imagination
glorious, and above description. It is so encircled with
agates, and other most precious materials, as to dazzle and
confound the beholders. The basso-relievos are for the
most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed with figures of
molten brass, double gilt, on lapis lazuli. The altar is a
most stupendous piece; but most incomparable is the
cupola painted by Giuseppe Rheni, and the present Bagli-
oni, full of exquisite sculptures. There is a most sumptuous
sacristia ; and the piece over the altar was by the hand of
St. Luke; if you will believe it. Paulus V. hath here
VOL. I. I
114* DIARY OF [ROME,
likewise built two other altars ; under the one lie the bones
of the Apostle, St. Matthias. In another oratory, is the
statue of this Pope, and the head of the Congo Ambassador,
who was converted at Rome, and died here. In a third
chapel, designed by Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of Platina,
and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV,,
the ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of
Sextus v., before mentioned, was showed us part of the
crib in which Christ was swaddled at Bethlehem ; there is
also the statue of Pius V. ; and, going out at the further
end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand.
In the portico, is this late inscription : " Cardinal Antonio
Barberino Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam
Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, laborante sub Tyrannis
ecclesiS., ut esset loci sanctitate venerabihor, Franciscus
Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani e suis sedibus hue trans-
tulit et omavit, 1632." Just before this portico, stands a
very sublime and stately Corinthian column, of white
marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old
Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the phnth
of the capital the image of our Lady, gilt on metal ; at the
pedestal runs a fountain. Going down the hill, we saw the
obehsk taken from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and
erected in this place by Domenico Fontana, with this
epigraph : " Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto
advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum, deinde
et in plures confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum
jacentem, in pristinam faciem restitutum Salutiferse Cruci
feliciiis hie erigi jussit, anno mdlxxxviii., Pont. III." : —
and so we came weary to our lodgings.
At the foot of this hill, is the Church of St. Prudentia,
in which is a well filled with the blood and bones of several
martyrs, but grated over with iron, and visited by many
■devotees. Near this stands the church of her sister,
S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a
little obscure place, cancelled in with iron work, is the
pillar, or stump, at which they relate our Blessed Saviour
was scourged, being full of bloody spots, at which the
devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and convey
their kisses by a stick ha\ing a tassel on it. Here, besides
a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous
Cardinal Cajetan, an excellent piece : and here they hold
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 115
that St. Peter said his first mass at Rome, with the same
altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having been first
lodged in this house, as they compute about the forty-
fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many
relics, or rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in
Panisperna did next invite us, where that martyr was
cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet remaining. St.
Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument.
In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence
painted a fresco on the wall. The fabric is nothing but
Gothic. On the left, is the Therma Novatii ; and, on the
right, Agrippina^s Lavacrum.
14th. We passed again through the stately Capitol and
Campo Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian,
but first stayed to look at Titus's Triumphal Arch, erected
by the people of Rome, in honour of his victory at Jerusa-
lem ; on the left hand whereof he is represented drawn in
a chariot with four horses abreast ; on the right-hand, or
side of the arch within, is sculptured in figures, or basso-
relievo as big as the hfe (and in one entire marble) the Ark
of the Covenant, on which stands the seven-branched
candlestick described in Leviticus, as also the two Tables
of the Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the bars, as
they are described in some of St. Hierom's bibles ; before
this, go many crowned and laureated figures, and twelve
Roman fasces, with other sacred vessels. This much con-
firmed the idea I before had ; and, therefore, for the light
it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter. Carlo, to
copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the Arch is of the
noblest, best understood composita; and the inscription is
this, in capital letters :
S. p. Q, B.
D. TITO. D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO.
Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us
Simon Magus feU out of the air at St. Peter's prayer, and
burst himself to pieces on a flint. Near this is a marble
monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory of
the Pope's return from Avignon.
Being now passed the ruins of Meta-Sudante (which
stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there once
stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh
the gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian
I 2
IIQ DIARY OF [Rojrar,
Amphitheatre, hegun by Vespasian, and finished by that
excellent prince, Titus. It is 830 Roman palms in length,
(«. e. 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, with caves for
the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of
dogs ; the whole oval periphery 2888f palms, and capable
of containing 87,000 spectators with ease and all accom-
modation: the three rows of circles are yet entire; the
first was for the senators, the middle for the nobility, the
third for the people. At the dedication of this place were
5000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the
feast lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It
was built of Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the five
orders of architecture, by 30,000 captive Jews. It is
without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned thick
with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of
the stones were carried away to repair the city -walls and
build the Famesian Palace. That which still appears
most admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults,
and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well deserves
this distich of the poet :
Omnis Caesareo cedat labor Amphitheatre ;
Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus.
Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta
nel Colisseo, which is erected on the steps, or stages, very
lofty at one of its sides, or ranges, within, and where there
lives only a melancholy hermit. I ascended to the very
top of it with wonderful admiration.
The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta-
Sudante, before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via
Appia, on one side Monte Celio, and is perfectly entire,
erected by the people in memory of his victory over
Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the
front is this inscription :
IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO
P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. K.
QUOD INSTINOTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS
MAONITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO
TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS '
FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS
REHPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS
ARCVH TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT.
Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. X17
are many privileged altars, and there they showed us an
arm of that saint, and other relics. Before this church
stands a very noble portico.
15th. Was very wet, and I stirred not out, and the 16th
I went to visit Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines.
17th. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample
garden on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city-
walls, circumscribed by another wall full of small turrets
and banqueting-houses ; which makes it appear at a
distance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of
delight, having in the centre of it a noble palace ; but the
entrance of the garden presents us with a very glorious
fabric, or rather door-case, adorned with divers excellent
marble statues. This garden abounded with aU sorts of
dehcious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry
inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also ad-
joining to it a vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans,
cranes, &c. and divers strange beasts, deer, and hares.
The grotto is* very rare, and represents, among other
devices, artificial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers,
&c. ; which is effected by changing the heads of the foun-
tains. The groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and
olive. The four sphinxes are very antique, and worthy
observation. To this is a volary, full of curious birds.
The house is square with turrets, from which the prospect is
excellent towards Rome, and the environing hills, covered
as they now are with snow, which indeed commonly con-
tinues even a great part of the summer, affording sweet
refreshment. Round the house is a baluster of white
marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with
a multitude of statues. The walls of the house are covered
with antique incrustations of history, as that of Curtius,
the Rape of Europa, Leda, &c. The cornices above con-
sist of fruitages and festoons, between which are niches
furnished with statues, which order is observed to the very
roof. In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good statues
of Consuls, &c., with two pieces of field-artillery upon
carriages, (a mode much practised in Italy before the great
men's houses) which they look on as a piece of state more
than defence. In the first haU within, are the twelve
Roman Emperors, of excellent marble; betwixt them
stand porphyry columns, and other precious stones of
1X8 DIARY OP [ROME,
vast height and magnitude^ with urns of oriental alabaster.
Tables of pietra-commessa : and here is that renowned
Diana which Pompey worshipped, of eastern marble ; the
most incomparable Seneca of touch, bleeding in an huge
vase of porphyry, resembling the drops of his blood ; the
so famous Gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt
of stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cava-
liero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the
stone, and the art of the statuary plainly stupendous.
There is a multitude of rare pictures of infinite value, by
the best masters; huge tables of porphyry, and two ex-
quisitely wrought vases of the same. In another chamber,
are divers sorts of instruments of music : amongst other
toys that of a satyr, which so artificially expressed a human
voice, with the motion of eyes and head, that it might
easily affright one who was not prepared for that most ex-
travagant sight. They showed us also a chair that catches
fast any who sits down in it, so as not to be able to stir
out, by certain springs concealed in the arms and back
thereof, which at sitting down surprises a man on the
sudden, locking him in by the arms and thighs, after a
true treacherous Italian guise. The perspective is also
considerable, composed by the position of looking-glasses,,
which render a strange multiplication of things resembling
divers most richly furnished rooms. Here stands a rare
clock of German work; in a word, nothing but what is
magnificent is to be seen in this Paradise.
The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the
morning, I saw the ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope's
nephew, receiving a Cardinal's hat ; this was the first time
I had seen his Holiness in pontificalibus. After the Car-
dinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony
was in the Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar invested
with most pompous rites.
19th. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendous and
incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now extant in
the world, and perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any
that was ever built. The largeness of the piazza before
the portico is worth observing, because it affords a noble
prospect of the church, not crowded up as for the most
part is the case in other places where great churches are
erected. In this is a fountain, out of which gushes a river
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 119
rather than a stream which, ascending a good height,
breaks upon a round emboss of marble into millions of
pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise;
I esteem this one of the goodhest fountains I ever saw.
Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedi-
cated by Octavius Augustus to JuHus Caesar, whose ashes
it formerly bore on the simimit; but, being since over-
turned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast cost
and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana,
architect to Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire
square stone without hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two
feet, but comprehending the base and all it is 108 feet
high, and rests on four Lions of gilded copper, so as you
may see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the
pedestal.
Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven :
DIVO CAES. DIVI
IVLir F. AV6VSTO
TI. CAES. DIVI AVG.
r. AVG VS. SACRVM.
It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that
Sextus V. inclosed some of the holy wood ; and under it is
to be read by good eyes :
SANOTISSIMAE CRVCI
SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX..
CONSKCRAVIT.
E PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM
ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB.
L E. ABLATUM H.D.LXXXVI.
On the four faces of the base below :
1. CHRIST VS VINCIT.
CHRISTVS REGNAT.
CHRIST VS IMPERAT.
CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO
PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT.
2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.
OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM
IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM
AD APOSTOtORVM LIMINA
OPEROSO LAHORE TRANSTVLIT
AN. M.D.LXXXVl. PONT. U.
120 DIARY OP . [ROME,
3. KCCE CRVX DOMINr
FVGITK PARTES
ADVER8AE
VINCIT LEO
DE TRIBV IVDA.
4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.
CRVCI INVICTAE
OBELISCVM VATIOANVM
AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE
EXPIATVM IVSTIVS
ET FELICIVS CONSECRAVIT
AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II.
A little lower :
DOMINICVS FONTAKA EX PAGO MILIACRI N0V0C0MENSI8 TRANSTYLIT
ET EREXIT.*
It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have
cost 37,975 crowns, the labour of 907 men, and 75 horses;
this being the first of the four Egyptian obelisks set up at
Borne, and one of the forty-two brought to the city out of
Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the
Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes, f Some coaches stood
before the steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to
Cardinal Medici, had all the metal work of massy silver,
viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at
Rome, as well as covered waggons also much in use, are
generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the
facciata of the church is an ample pavement. The church
was first begun by St. Anacletus, when rather a chapel, on
a foundation, as they give out, of Constantino the Great,
who, in honour of the Apostles, carried twelve baskets full
of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in
hand, to which all his successors have contributed more
or less.
The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied
piece of architecture in the world ; to this we went up by
four steps of marble. The first entrance is supported by
huge pilasters ; the volto within is the richest possible, and
overlaid with gold. Between the five large anti-ports are
• In 1589, this eminent architect published a folio volume, with engravings,
descriptive of the manner of removing and re-erecting this famous monument
of antiquity, entitled " Del modo tenuto nel trasportare I'Obelisco Vaticano ;"
with his portrait in the title-page, holding a model of this column.
t See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p. 315.
1C44.] JOHN EVELYN. 121
columns of enormous height and compass, with as many-
gates of brass, the work and sculpture of PoUaivola, the
Florentine, full of cast figures and histories in a deep
relievo. Over this runs a terrace of like amplitude and
ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his
Benediction on the vidgar. On each side of this portico,
are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one
perfected, of admirable art. On the top of all, runs a
balustrade which edges it quite round, and upon this at
equal distances are Christ and the [twelve Disciples, of
gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater
than the life. Entering the church, admirable is the
breadth of the volto, or roof, which is all carved with
foliage and roses overlaid with gold in nature of a deep
basso-relievo, a V antique. The nave, or body, is in form of
a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest ; and, at the
internodium of the transept, rises the cupola, which being
all of stone and of prodigious height is more in compass
than that of the Pantheon (which was the largest amongst
the old Romans, and is yet entire) or any other known.
The inside, or concave, is covered with most exquisite
Mosaic, representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe
d'Arpino, full of stars of gold; the convex, or outside,
exposed to the air, is covered with lead, with great ribs of
metal double gilt (as are also the ten other lesser cupolas,
for no fewer adorn this glorious structure), which gives a
great and admirable splendour in all parts of the city.
On the summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable
of receiving thirty-five persons. This I entered, and en-
graved my name amongst other travellers. Lastly, is the
cross, the access to which is between the leaden covering
and the stone convex, or arch-work ; a most truly astonish-
ing piece of art ! On the battlements of the church, also
all overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine
yourself in a town, so many are the cupolas, pinnacles,
towers, juttings, and not a few houses inhabited by men
who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the
vast reparations which continually employ them.
Having seen this, we descended into the body of the
church, full of collateral chapels and large oratories, most
of them exceeding the size of ordinary churches ; but the
principal are four incrusted with most precious marbles
122 DIARY OP [ROME,
and stones of various colours, adorned with an infinity of
statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics.
The altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could
not pass without particular note, as one of the best of that
kind. The chapel of Gregory XIII., where he is buried,
is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the centre of
the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by
Clement VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered
by Pope Urban VIII. ; with that stupendous canopy of
Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought from the
Pantheon ; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly
channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little
puti, birds and bees (the arms of the Barberini), sustaining
a baldacchina, of the same metal. The four columns weigh
an hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt ;
this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about it, form
a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond
all that man's industry has produced of the kind ; it is the
work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter,
and poet, who, a httle before my coming to the city, gave
a public opera (for so they call shows of that kind), wherein
he painted the scenes, cut the statues, invented the engines,
composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the
theatre. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those
niches which with their columns support the weighty
cupola, are placed four exquisite statues of Parian marble,
to which are four altars ; that of St. Veronica, made by
Fra. Mochi, has over it the rehquary, where they showed
us the miraculous Sudarium indued with the picture of
our Saviour's face, with this inscription: "Salvatoris
imaginem Veronicas Sudario exceptara ut loci majestas
decenter custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmo-
reum signum et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et
omavit."
Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean
magnitude, also by Bernini, and over him the conservatory
of the iron lance inserted in a most precious crystal, ^vith
this epigraph : " Longini Lanceam quam Innocentius VIII.
h Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII.
statu^ appositS,, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Con-
ditorium transtulit."
The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 123
countrywoman, St. Helena, the mother of Constantine the
Great; the work of Boggi, an excellent sculptor; and
here is preserved a great piece of the pretended wood of
the holy cross, which she 'is said to have first detected
miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by
the late Pope with this inscription : " Partem Crucis quam
Helena Imperatrix e Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus
VIII. Pont. Max. e Sissorian^ Basilici desumptam, addi-
tis ar4 et statu^, hie in Vatican© collocavit."
The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that
of St. Veronica, the statue of St. Andrew, the work of
Fiamingo, admirable above all the other; above is pre-
served the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It is
said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue
placed in a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief
architect, who found himself outdone by this artist. The
inscription over it is this :
St. Andrese caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportan-
dum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hie omamentis decoratum sacrisque
statuse ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit.
The Belies showed and kept in this church are without
number, as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and
gems, with the vests and services to be seen in the Sacristy,
which they showed us. Under the high altar is an ample
grot inlaid with pietra-commessa, wherein half of the bodies
of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang
divers great lamps of the richest plate, burning continually.
About this and contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade,
in form of a theatre, of black marble. Towards the left,
as you go out of the church by the portico, a little beneath
the high altar, is an old brass statue of St. Peter sitting,
under the soles of whose feet many devout persons rub
their heads, and touch their chaplets. This was formerly
cast from a statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another
place, stands a column grated about with iron, whereon
they report that our Blessed Saviour was often wont to
lean as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the
reliquary under the cupola there are eight wreathed
columns brought from the Temple of Solomon. In
another chapel, they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or,
as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. But amongst
124 DIARY OP [ROME,
all the chapels the one most glorious has for an altar-piece
a Madonna bearing a dead Christ on her knees, in white
marble, the work of Michael Angelo. At the upper end of
the Cathedral, are several stately monuments, especially
that of Urban VIII. Round the cupola, and in many
other places in the church, are confession-seats for all lan-
gua'ges, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian, French,
English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, &c., as it is
written on their friezes in golden capitals, and there are
still at confessions some of all nations. Towards the
lower end of the church, and on the side of a vast pillar
sustaining a weighty roof, is the depositum and statue of
the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with basso-relievos
about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are
also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., &c. Amongst
the exquisite pieces in this sumptuous fabric is that of the
ship with St. Peter held up from sinking by our Saviour j
the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous Giotto,
who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced
by the Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola
to be passed over without observation, which with the rest
of the body and walls of the whole church, are all inlaid
with the richest of pietra-commessa, in the most splendid
colours of polished marbles, agates, serpentine, porphyry,
calcedon, &c., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming
out by the portico at which we entered, we were showed
the Porta Santa, never opened but at the year of jubilee.
This glorious foundation hath belonging to it thirty
canons, thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight clerks bene-
ficed, with innumerable chaplains, &c., a Cardinal being
always arch-priest ; the present Cardinal was Francisco
Barberini, who also styled himself Protector of the English,
to whom he was indeed very courteous.
20th. I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral
of St. John di Laterano, and the holy places there-
about. This is a church of extraordinary devotion, though,
for outward form, not comparable to St. Peter's, being
of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the cathe-
dral, the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented itself,
being formerly part of the Great Constantine's Palace,
and, as it is said, his chamber where by St. Silvester
he was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape.
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 125
having before the entrance eight fairpillars of rich porphyry,
each of one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders
supporting lesser columns of white marble, and these sup-
porting a noble cupola, the moulding whereof is excellently
wrought. In the chapel which they affirm to have been
the lodging place of this Emperor, all women are prohi-
bited from entering, for the malice of Herodias who
caused him to lose his head. Here are deposited several
sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew,
&c., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory
near it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned
with marbles and tables, especially those of Cavaliere
Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence
into another called St. Venantius, in which is a tribunal
all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar
of the Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish
saints, companions of Pope John IV. The portico of the
church is built of materials brought from Pontius Pilate*s
house in Jerusalem.
The next sight which attracted our attention, was a
wonderful concourse of people at their devotions before a
place called Scala Sancta, to which is built a noble front.
Entering the portico, we saw those large marble stairs,
twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on
the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step ; on
which you may perceive divers red specks of blood under a
grate, which they affirm to have been drops of our Blessed
Saviour, at the time he was so barbarously misused by
Herod's soldiers ; for these stairs are reported to have been
translated hither from his Palace in tferusalem. At the
top of them is a chapel, whereat they enter (but we could
not be permitted) by gates of marble, being the same our
Saviour passed when he went out of Herod's house. This
they name the Sanctum Sanctorum, and over it we read this
epigraph :
Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus.
Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ
painted (as they say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life.
Descending again, we saw before the church the obeUsk,
which is indeed most worthy of admiration. It formerly
lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus V.,
in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or
J_2^ DIARY OF [ROME,
pedestal ; at the foot nine and a half one way and eight
the other. This pillar was first brought from Thebes at
the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from thence
to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammi-
anus Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses, King
of Egypt. It was transferred to this city by Constantine
the son of the Great, and is full of hieroglyphics, serpents,
men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, &c., containing (as
Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book
which he is ready to pubhsh) aU the recondite and abstruse
learning of that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that
brought it to Rome so many hundred leagues must needs
Jiave been of wonderful bigness and strange fabric. The
stone is one and entire, and [having been thrown down]
was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana for that magni-
ficent Pope, Sextus V., as the rest were ; it is now cracked
in many places, but solidly joiaed. The obeUsk is thus
inscribed at the several facciatas :
Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum a patre
suo motum diuq; AlexandrisB jacentem, trecentorum remigum impo-
situm navimirandsevastitatis per mare Tyberimq ; magnismolibusRomam
convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.RJD.D.
On the second square :
Fl. Constantinus Max : Aug : Christiana} fidei Vindex & Assertor,
Obeliscum ab JEgyptio Rege impure voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum
suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, nt novam Romam ab se tunc
conditam eo decoraret monumento.
On the third :
Sextus V. Pontifex Max : Obeliscum hunc specie eximia tempomm
calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi minis humo, limoq ; altd demersum,
multa impensa extraxit, hunc in •locum magno labore transtulit,
form&q ; pristina accurate vestitum, Cruci invictissimse dicavit anno
M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII.
On the fourth :
Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Silvestro hie Baptizatus Crucis
gloriam propagavit.
Leaving this wonderful monument, (before which is a
stately public fountain, with a statue of St. John in the
middle of it) we visited his HoHness's Palace, being a
little on the left hand, the design of Fontana, architect to
Sextus V. This I take to be one of the best Palaces in
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 127
Rome ; but not staying, we entered the cliurch of St. John
di Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman
See, as I learned by these verses engraven upon the archi-
trave of the portico :
Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali
Quod sim canctarum mater caput Ecclesiaru
Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris
Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt ;
Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto
Nostra quod hsec sedes ; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes.
It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwell-
ing it seems hereabouts, on Mons Cselius. The church is
Gothic, and hath a stately tribunal ; the paintings are of
Pietro Pisano. It was the first church that was conse-
crated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where
altars of «tone supplied those of wood heretofore in use,
and made like large chests for the easier removal in times
of persecution ; «uch an altar is still the great one here
preserved, as being that on which (they hold) St. Peter
celebrated mass at Rome ; for which reason none but the
Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The
pavement is of all sorts of precious marbles, and so are
the walls to a great height, over which it is painted a fresco
with the life and acts of Constantino the Great, by most
excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four
columns. The soffito is all richly gilded, and full of
pictures. Opposite to the porta is an altar of exquisite
architecture with a tabernacle on it all of precious stones,
the work of Targoni ; on this is a coena of plate, the in-
vention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value ; the tables
hanging over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this
are four excellent columns transported out of Asia by the
Emperor Titus, of brass double gilt, about twelve feet in
height ; the walls between them are incrusted with marble
and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be
filled with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jeru-
salem to her son, Constantino, who set these pillars where
they now stand. At one side of this is an oratory full of
rare paintings and monuments, especially those* of the
great Connestabile Colonna. Out of this we came into
the Sacristia, full of good pictures of Albert and others.
At the end of the church is a flat stone supported by four
128 DIARY OF [ROME,
pillars which they affirm to have been the exact height of
our Blessed Saviour, and say they never fitted any mortal
man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter ; two
columns of the veil of the Temple which rent at his
passion ; the stone on which they threw lots for his seam-
less vesture ; and the pillar on which the cock crowed,
after Peter^s denial ; and, to omit no fine thing, the just
length of the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her shoemaker
affirmed ! Here is a sumptuous cross beset with precious
stones, containing some of the very wood of the holy
cross itself; with many other things of this sort : also
numerous most magnificent monuments, especially those
of St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I.,
of copper ; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V.,
Laurentius Valla, &c., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata,
designed by M. Angelo ; and the great crucifix of Ser-
moneta. In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue
of Henry IV. of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole,
and so has done many years ; perhaps from not believing
him a thorough proselyte. The two famous (Ecumenical
Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope Simachus,
Martin I., Stephen, &c.
Leaving this venerable church, (for in truth it has a
certain majesty in it) we passed through a fair and large
hospital of good architecture, having some inscriptions
put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. We then
went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gre-
gory P., begun by M. Angelo ; a St. Andrew, and the
bath of St. Cecilia. In this church are some rare paint-
ings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Rheni.
Thence, to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are
reputed to be great chymists. The choir, roof, and paint-
ings in the tribuna are excellent.
Descending the Mons Cajlius, we came against the
vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden
House of Nero ; now nothing but a heap of vast and
confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of
human things does change from the most glorious and
magnificent to the most deformed and confused. We next
went into St. Sebastian's Church, which has a handsome
front : then we passed by the place where Romulus and
Remus were taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanima,
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 129
and so by the edge of the Mons Palatinus ; Avhere we
saw the ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church of
St. Anacletus ; and so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore
capable of containing a hundred and sixty thousand
spectators, but now all one entire heap of rubbish, part of
it converted into a garden of pot-herbs. We concluded
this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the
Chiesa Nova.
21st. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliero
Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of
antiquities, and a choice library, over which are the eflBgies
of most of our late men of polite literature. He had a
great collection of the antique basso-relievos about Rome,
which this curious mem had caused to be designed in
several folios : many fine medals ; the stone which Pliny
calls Enhydros ; it had plainly in it the quantity of half
a spoonful of water, of a yellow pebble colour, of the
bigness of a walnut. A stone paler than an amethyst,
which yet he afiirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder
than a diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or
anything at the bottom, so as it was transparent, of
a greenish yellow, more lustrous than a diamond. He
had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet, designed
in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in
frames ; also a number of choice designs and drawings.
Hence, we walked to the Suburra and ^rarium Saturni,
where yet remain some ruins and an inscription. From
thence to St. Pietro in vinculis, one of the seven churches
on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of
great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of
the seven Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar.
On the wall is a St. Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek
manner: but what I chiefly regarded, was, that noble
sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo ; with
that never-sufficiently-to-be-admired statue of Moses, in
white marble, and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa,
by the same incomparable hand. To this church belongs
a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters grow two tall
and very stately palm-trees. Behind these, we walked a
turn amongst the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange
and prodigious receptacles for water, which the vulgar call
the Setti Sali, now aU in heaps.
VOL. I. K
230 DIARY OP [ROME,
22nd. Was tte solemn and greatest ceremony of all
the State Ecclesiastical, viz., the procession of the Pope
(Innocent X.) to St. John di Laterano, which, standing
on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, I saw pass in
this manner: — First went a guard of Switzers to make
way, and divers of the avant-guard of horse carrying
lances. Next followed those who carried the robes of the
Cardinals, two and two ; then the CardinaFs mace-bearers;
the caudatari, on mules ; the masters of their horse ; the
Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic
officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries ; the squires be-
longing to the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five
noble Neapolitan horses, white as snow, covered to the
ground, with trappings richly embroidered ; which is a
service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of
Naples and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope ;
three mules of exquisite beauty and price, trapped in
crimson velvet ; next followed three rich litters with
mules, the litters empty ; the master of the horse alone,
with his squires ; five trumpeters ; the armerieri estra
muros ; the fiscal and consistorial advocates ; capellani,
eamerieri de honore, cubiculari and chamberlains, called
secreti.
Then followed four other eamerieri, with four caps
of the dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats car-
ried on staves ; four trumpets ; after them, a number of
noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, very rich, and
followed by innumerable staffi^ri and pages ; the secreta-
ries of the chancellaria, abbreviatori-accoliti in their long
robes, and on mules ; auditori di rota ; the dean of the
roti and master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave,
but rich foot-clothes, and in flat episcopal hats ; then went
more of the Roman and other nobility and courtiers, with
divers pages in most rich liveries on horseback ; fourteen
drums belonging to the Capitol ; the marshals with their
staves ; the two syndics ; the conservators of the city, in
robes of crimson damask; the knight-confalionier and
prior of the R. R., in velvet toques ; six of his Holiness's
mace-bearers ; then the captain, or governor, of the Castle
of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer ; the governor of the
city ; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers ;
the masters of the ceremonies ; the cross-bearer on horse-
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 131
back, with two priests at each hand on foot ; pages, foot-
men, and guards, in abundance. Then came the Pope
himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of crimson
velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately
mules ; as he went, he held up two fingers, blessing the
multitude who were on their knees, or looking out of their
windows and houses, with loud vivas and acclamations of
felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by
the master of his chamber, cup-bearer, secretary, and phy-
sician ; then came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal- Priests,
Cardinal-Deacons, Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops,
all in their several and distinct habits, some in red, others
in green flat hats with tassels, all on gallant mules richly-
trapped with velvet, and led by their servants in great
state and multitudes ; after them, the apostolical protono-
tari, auditor, treasurer, and referendaries ; lastly, the
trumpets of the rear-guard, two pages of arms in helmets
with feathers and carrying lances ; two captains ; the pon-
tifical standard of the Church ; the two alfieri, or cornets,
of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armour and
carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches,
litters, and people, made up the procession. What they
did at St. John di Laterano, I could not see, by reason of
the prodigious crowd ; so I spent most of the day in view-
ing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely
erected a few days before, and till now covered ; the one
by the Duke of Parma, in the Foro Eomano, the other by
the Jews in the Capitol, with flattering inscriptions. They
were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues and
abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they
were but temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, &c.,
painted and framed on the sudden, but as to outward
appearance solid and very stately. The night ended with
fire-works. What I saw was that which was built before
the Spanish Ambassador's house, in the Piazza del Trinity,
and another, before that of the French. The first ap-
peared to be a mighty rock, bearing the Pope's Arms,
a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on fire by
one who flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet
preserving the figure both of the rock and statues a very
long time ; insomuch as it was deemed ten thousand
reports of squibs and crackers spent themselves in order.
k2
]32 DIARY OF [ROME,
That before the Erench Ambassador's Palace was a Diana
drawn in a chariot by her dogs, Avith abundance of other
figures as large as the life, which played with fire in the
same manner. In the mean time, the windows of the
whole city were set with tapers put into lanterns, or
sconces, of several coloured oiled paper, that the wind
might not annoy them; this rendered a most glorious
show. Besides these, there were at least twenty other
fire-works of vast charge and rare art for their invention
before divers Ambassadors, Princes, and Cardinals^ Palaces,
especially that on the castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid
of lights, of great height, fastened to the ropes and cables
which support the standard-pole. The streets were this
night as fight as day, full of bonfires, cannon roaring,
music playing, fountains running wine, in all excess of joy
and triumph.
23rd. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front
Avhereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of
its ornaments being of rich marble. It has within a
noble portico and court, sustained by stately columns, as
is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of which are
the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught
as at the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius
Kircher upon a part of Euclid, which he expounded. To
this joins a glorious and ample church for the students ;
a second is not fully finished ; and there are two noble
libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and histo-
rian, Famianus Strada. Hence, we went to the house
of Hippolito Vitellesco, (afterwards bibliothecary of the
Vatican library,) who showed us one of the best collections
of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if
they were living, pronouncing now and then orations,
sentences, and verses, sometimes kissing and embracing
them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in the face by
order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much
esteemed. Also a Minerva, and others of great value.
This gentleman not long since purchased land in the
kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging the ground, to
find more statues; which it seems so far succeeded, as
to be much more worth than the purchase. We spent
the evening at the Chiesa Nova, where was excellent
music ; but, before that began, the courteous fathers led
16U.} JOHN EVELYN. X33
me into a nobly furnished library, contiguous to their most
beautiful convent.
28th. I went to see the garden and house of the Aldo-
brandini, now Cardinal Borghese's. This Palace is, for
architecture, magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the
most considerable about the city. It has four fronts, and
a noble piazza before it. Within the courts, under arches
supported by marble columns, are many excellent statues.
Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of
white marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite
are of stupendous art. For paintings. Our Saviour's Head,
by Coreggio ; several pieces of Raphael, some of which are
small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two
admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil ; so is the Psyche
and Cupid ; the Head of St. John, borne by Herodias ; two
heads of Albert Durer, very exquisite. We were shown
here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence- work in stone.
In the gardens are many fine fountains, the walls covered
with citron-trees, which, being rarely spread, invest the
stone-work entirely; and, towards the street, at a back-
gate, the port is so handsomely clothed with ivy as much
pleased me. About this palace are many noble antique
bassi-relicAi : two especially are placed on the ground,
representing armour, and other military furniture of the Ro-
mans; beside these, stand about the garden numerous rare
statues, altars, and urns. Above all, for antiquity and
curiosity (as being the only rarity of that nature now
known to remain) is that piece of old Roman painting
representing the Roman Sponsalia, or celebration of their
marriage, judged to be 1400 years old, yet are the colours
very lively and the design very entire, though found
deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting's sake
only, it is said the Borghesi purchased the house, be-
cause this being on a wall in a kind of banqueting-
house in the garden, could not be removed, but passes with
the inheritance.
29tli. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace,
being near my lodging, the more exactly to have a view
of the noble collections that adorn it, especially the bassi-
relievi and antique friezes inserted about the stone-work
of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the por-
tico, is a rare piece ; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in the
184 DIARY OP [ROME,
hall. We were now led into those rooms above we could
not see before, full of incomparable statues and antiquities;
above all, and haply preferable to any in the world, are
the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture with each
others' arms and legs is stupendous. In the great chamber
is the Gladiator, whetting a knife ; but the Venus is with-
out parallel, being the master-piece of one whose name
3'ou see graven under it in old Greek characters ; nothing
in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art. To this
add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on a pipe;
some relievi incrusted on the palace-walls ; and an antique
vasa of marble, near six feet high. Among the pictures
may be mentioned the Magdalen and St. Peter, weeping.
I pass over the cabinets and tables of pietra commessa,
being the proper invention of the Florentines. In one of
the chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded into so
many varieties, as to turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or
a couch. I had another walk in the garden, where are
two huge vasas, or baths of stone.
I went farther up the hill to the Pope's Palaces at
Monte Cavallo, where I now saw the garden more exactly,
and found it to be one of the most magnificent and plea-
sant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually allowed
2000 scudi for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges
of myrtle above a man's height ; others of laurel, oranges,
nay, of ivy and juniper; the close walks, and rustic gi'otto;
a cryptall, of which the laver, or basin, is of one vast,
entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows a plentiful
cascade ; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of rich
mosaic. Here are hydrauhc organs, a fish-pond, and an
ample bath. From hence, we went to taste some rare
Greco ; and so home.
Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept
within, for the most part, till the 6th December; and,
during this time, I entertained one Signer Alessandro,
who gave me some lessons on the theorbo.
The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed
in a ferry-boat, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing
in Transtevere, fairly built, but famous only for the paint-
ing a fresco on the volto of the portico towards the garden;
the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the
hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you
1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 135
always see painters designing and copying after it, being
esteemed one of the rarest pieces of that art in the world ;
and with great reason. I must not omit that incomparable
table of Galatea (as I remember), so carefully preserved in
the cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it
from the air, being a most lively painting. There are
likewise excellent things of Baldassare, and others.
Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of
Bracciano, fairly built, with a stately court and fountain.
Next, we walked to St. Mary^s Church, where was the
Tabema Meritoria, where the old Roman soldiers received
their triumphal garland, which they ever after wore. The
high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of porphyry :
here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the
Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this
church was the first that was dedicated to the Virgin at
Eome. In the opposite piazza is a very sumptuous
fountain.
12th December. I went again to St. Peter's, to see the
chapels, churches, and grots under the whole church (like
our St. Faith's under Paul's), in which lie interred a multi-
tude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes ; amongst them our
countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest
of porphyry; St. J. Chrysostom ; Petronella; the heads of
St. James Minor, St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas
h Becket; a shoulder of St. Christopher; an arm of
Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more
Bishops, Soldiers, Princes, Scholars, Cardinals, Kings,
Emperors, their wives ; too long to particularize.
Hence we walked into the cemetery', called Campo
Santo, the earth consisting of several ship-loads of mould,
transported from Jerusalem, which consumes a carcase in
twenty -four hours. To this joins that rare hospital, where
once was Nero's Circus ; the next to this is the Inquisition-
house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was
not curious to see. To this joins his Holiness's Horse-
guards.
On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of
seeing the many extraordinary ceremonies performed then
in their churches, as midnight masses and sermons. I
walked from church to church the whole night in admira-
tion at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the
136 DIARY OF [ROME,
friars had witli much industry and craft set out, to catch
the devout women and superstitious sort of people, who
never parted without dropping some money into a vessel
set on purpose ; but especially observable was the puppetrj""
in the Church of the Minerva, representing the Nativity.
I thence went and heard a sermon at the ApoUinare ; by
which time it was morning. On Christmas -day, his Holi-
ness sang mass, the artillery at St. Angelo went off, and
all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord.
29th. Wc were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner,
being their great feast of Thomas [a Becket] of Canter-
bury. We dined in their common refectory, and after-
wards saw an Italian comedy acted by their alumni before
the Cardinals.
1645. January. We saw pass the new officers of the
people of Rome ; especially, for their noble habits were
most conspicuous, the three Consuls, now called Conserva-
tors, who take their places in the Capitol, having been
sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We
ended the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova.
6th. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's baptism in
the Church of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was
a great procession, del Bambino, as they call it, where
were all the magistrates, and a wonderful concourse of
people.
7th. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto,
who are constrained to sit till the hour is done ; but it is.
with so much malice in their countenances, spitting, hum-
ming, coughing, and motion, that it is almost impossible
they should hear a word from the preacher. A conversion
is very rare.
14th. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed
at St. John Laterano.
15th. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have
portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry
them, walked in procession to St. Peter^s, where the
Veronica was showed.
I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a
suburb by themselves; being invited by a Jew of my
acquaintance to see a circumcision. I passed by the
Piazza Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being
environed with walls, they are locked up every night. In
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 137
this place remains yet part of a stately fabric, whicli my
Jew told me had been a palace of theirs for the ambassador
of their nation, when their country was subject to the
Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a pri-
vate house, I found a world of people in a chamber : by
and bye came an old man, who prepared and laid in order
divers instruments brought by a little child of about seven
years old in a box. These the man laid in a silver basin;
the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the
haft. Then they burnt some incense in a censer, which
perfumed the room all the while the ceremony was per-
forming. In the hasin was a little cap made of white
paper like a capuchin^s hood, not bigger than the finger ;
also a paper of a red astringent powder, I suppose of bole;
a small instrument of silver, cleft in the middle at one end
to take up the prepuce withal ; a fine linen cloth wrapped
up. These being all in order, the women brought the
infant swaddled, out of another chamber, and delivered it
to the Rabbi, who carried and presented it before an altar,
or cupboard, dressed up, on which lay the five Books of
Moses, and the Commandments, a little unrolled. Before
this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words,
he waved the child to and fro awhile ; then he delivered it
to another Rabbi, who sate all this time upon a table.
Whilst the ceremony was performing, all the company fell
singing a Hebrew hymn, in a barbarous tone, waving
themselves to and fro; a ceremony they observe in all
their devotions. — The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats,
live only upon brokage and usury, very poor and despicable,
beyond what they are in other territories of Princes where
they are permitted.
18th. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican,
where he for the most part keeps his Court. It was
first built by Pope Simachus, and since augmented to a
vast pile of building by his successors. That part of it
added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This leads us
into divers terraces arched sub dio, painted by Raphael
Avith the Histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists
come from all parts of Europe to make their studies from
these designs. The foliage and grotesque about some of
the compartments are admirable.* In another room are
* Painted by John of Udine, scholar of Raphael, from the designs of
Raphael. Painter's Voyage of Italy, p. 17.
138 DIARY OF [ROME,
represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in
the world, in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The
stairs which ascend out of St. Peter^s portico into the first
hall, are rarely contrived for ease ; these lead into the hall of
Gregory XIII. , the walls whereof, half way to the roof, are
incrusted with most precious marbles of various colours
and works. So is also the pavement inlaid work ; but
what exceeds description is, the volta, or roof itself, which
is so exquisitely painted, that it is almost impossible for the
skilfuUest eye to discern whether it be the work of the
pencil upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone.' The
B/Ota dentata, in this admirable perspective, on the left
hand as one goes out, the Stella, &c., are things of art
incomparable. Certainly this is one of the most superb
and royal apartments in the world, much too beautiful for
a guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink
and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a
painting of St. Peter, walking on the sea towards our
Saviour.
Out of this I went into another hall, just before the
chapel, called the Sala del Conclave, full of admirable
paintings ; amongst others, is the Assassination of Coligni,
the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered by the
Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of
Henry IV. with Queen Margaret; under it is written,
"CoHgni et sociorum csedes:'^ on the other side, "Rex
Coligi necem probat.^^
There is another very large picture, under which is
inscribed :
"Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum
fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs ; cognitum et a senatu perhonoiifice suscep-
tum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prselio victo captoq ; Fredericus,
pace facta, supplex adorat ; fidem et obedientiaiu pollicitus. Ita Pon-
tifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio restituta mclxxviii."*
This inscription I the rather took notice of, because
Urban VIII. had caused it to be blotted out during the
difference between him and that State; but it was now
* " Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath and violence of the Emperor
Frederick I., took shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged, and most
honourably received by the Senate. The Emperor's son, Odio, being con-
quered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became
a suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty and obedience. Thus his dignity
was restored to the Pontiff, by the aid of the Republic of Venice, mclxxviii."
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 139
restored and refreslied by his successor, to the great
honour of the Venetians. The battle of Lepanto is another
fair piece here.
Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so much cele-
brated for the Last Judgment painted by M. Angelo
Buonarotti. It is a painting in fresco, upon a dead wall
at the upper end of the chapel, just over the high altar, of
a vast design and miraculous fancy, considering the multi-
tude of naked figures and variety of posture. The roof
also is full of rare work. — Hence, we went into the sacristia,
where were showed all the most precious vestments, copes,
and furniture of the chapel. One priestly cope, with the
whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys,
and is shown for a great rarit3^ There were divers of the
Pope's pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich
jewels embroidered on the instep, covered with crimson
velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown, divers mitres,
crosiers, &c., all bestudded with precious stones, gold, and
pearl, to a very great value ; a very large cross, carved (as
they affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous uten-
sils of crj'stal, gold, agate, amber, and other costly materials
for the altar.
We then went into those chambers painted with the
Histories of the burning of Rome, quenched by the pro-
cession of a Crucifix ; the victory of Constantino over
Maxentius ; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison ; all by
Julio Pbomano,* and are therefore called the Painters'
Academy, because you always find some young men or
other designing from them ; a civility which is not refused
in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old and best masters
are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many
excellent men in that profession.
The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin
Alberti, with an ample landscape of Paul Bril's.
We were then conducted into a new gallery, whose sides
were painted with views of the most famous places, towns,
and territories in Italy, rarely done, and upon the roof
the chief Acts of the Roman Chm-ch since St. Peter's pre-
tended See there. It is doubtless one of the most magni-
ficent galleries in Europe. — Out of this we came into the
Consistory, a noble room, the volto painted iji grotesque,
* A famous scholar of Raphael.
140 DIARY OF [ROME,
as I remember. At the upper end, is an elevated throne
and a baldacchino, or canopy of state, for his Hohness,
over it.
From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I
think, than the French Kings at the Louvre), but only of
bare walls, we were brought into the Vatican Library.
This passage was now full of poor people, to each of
whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a mezzo
grosse. I believe they were in number near 1500 or 2000
persons.
This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and
beautified of any in the world ; ample, stately, light, and
cheerful, looking into a most pleasant garden. The walls
and roof are painted, not with antiques and grotesques,
like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia-
grams, and the like learned inventions, found out by the
wit and industry of famous men, of which there are now
whole volumes extant. There were likewise the effigies of
the most illustrious men of letters and fathers of the
church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the
entrance, viz., Hippolytus and Aristides. The General
Councils are painted on the side-walls. As to the ranging
of the books, they are all shut up in presses of wainscot,
and not exposed on shelves to the open air, nor are the
most precious mixed amongst the more ordinary, which are
showed to the curious only ; such are those two Virgils
written on parchment, of more than a thousand years old ;
the like, a Terence; the Acts of the Apostles in golden
capital letters ; Petrarch^s Epigrams, written with his own
hand ; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the ancient
manner, from whence they were first called Volumina, with
the Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after,
the book which our Henry VIII. writ against Luther.*
The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the
gallery of printed books ; then the gallery of the Duke of
Urban's library, in which are MSS. of remarkable minia-
* This very book, by one of those curious chances that occasionally happen,
has recently been brought to England, where the Editor has seen it ; and,
what is very remarkable, wherever the title of Defender of the Faith is sub-
joined to the name of Henry, the Pope has drawn his pen through the title.
The name of the King occurs in his own hand-writing both at the beginning
and end ; and, on the binding, are the Royal Arms. The present possessor
purchased it in Italy for a few sliillings from an old book-stalL
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 141
ture, and divers China, Mexican, Samaritan, Abyssinian,
and other oriental books.
In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all
the books taken from Heidelberg, of which the learned
Gruter, and other great scholars, had been keepers. These
walls and volto are painted with representations of the
machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection of
the obelisks ; and the true design of Mahomet's sepulchre,
at Mecca.
Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during
a vacancy, the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed
upon a new election ; the whole manner whereof was
described to us.
Hence we went into the Pope's Armoury, under the
Library. Over the door is this inscription :
URBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS.
I hardly believe any Prince in Europe is able to show a
more completely furnished library of Mars, for the quality
and quantity, which is 40,000 complete for horse and foot,
and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again by the long
gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair
of stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descend-
ing with an evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter,
or coach, may Avith ease be drawn up ; the sides of the
vacuity are set with columns : those at Amboise, on the
Loire, in France, are something of this invention, but
nothing so spruce. By these, we descended into the
Vatican gardens, called Belvedere, where entering first
into a kind of court, we were showed those incomparable
statues (so famed by Pliny and others) of Laocoon with
his three sons embraced by a huge serpent, all of one
entire Parian stone, very white and perfect, somewhat
bigger than the life, the work of those three celebrated
sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus, and Artemidorus, Rho-
dians ; it was found amongst the ruins of Titus's Baths,
and placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteemed
before all pictures and statues in the world ; and I am of
his opinion, for I never beheld anything of art approach it.
Here are also those two famous images of Nilus with the
Children playing about him, and that of Tyber ; Romulus
and Remus with the Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the
142 DIARY OF [ROME,
Venus and Cupid, rare pieces ; the Mercuiy ; Cybel ;
Hercules ; Apollo ; Antinolis : most of which are, for
defence against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot
doors. We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian
Moles, viz. the Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on
the summit of that mausoleum ; also a peacock of copper,
supposed to have been part of Scipio^s monument.
In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit
of ground) are many stately fountains, especially two
casting water into antique lavers, brought from Titus's
Baths; some fair grots and water -works, that noble cascade
where the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inven-
tions, walks, terraces, meanders, fruit-trees, and a most
goodly prospect over the greatest part of the city. One
fountain under the gate I must not omit, consisting of
three jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or probosces
of bees (the arms of the late Pope), because of the
inscription :
Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit ?
Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam.
23rd. We went without the walls of the city to visit
St. Paul's, to which place it is said the Apostle bore his own
head after Nero had caused it to be cut off. The church
was founded by the Great Constantine ; the main roof is
supported by 100 vast columns of marble, and the mosaic
work of the great arch is wrought with a very ancient
story A° 440 ; as is likewise that of the facciata. The gates
are brass, made at Constantinople in 1070, as you may
read by those Greek verses engraven on them. The church is
near 500 feet long and 258 in breadth, and has five great
aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of whose columns is
this odd title : " Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Praf. Urbis
V. S.I. reparavit." Here they showed us that miraculous
Crucifix which they say spake to St. Bridget : and, just
before the Ciborio, stand two excellent statues. Here are
buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St. Peter. The
pavement is richly interwoven with precious oriental
marbles about the high altar, where are also four excel-
lent paintings, whereof one, representing the stoning of
St. Stephen, is by the hand of a Bolognian lady, named
La\dnia. The tabernacle on this altar is of excellent
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 143
architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento
are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also in this
venerable church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of the
Woman of Samaria ; the chain which bound St. Paul, and
the Eculeus used in tormenting the primitive Christians.
The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about a mile from
the walls of the city, separated from any buildings near it
except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we
walked, going over the mountain or little rising, upon
which story says a hundred seventy and four thousand
Christians had been martyred by Maximianus, Dioclesian,
and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St. Vincent's
and St. Anastasius; likewise the Church of St. Maria
Scala del Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very fair mosaic
work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as they are
called) is perfectly well built, though but small (whereas
that of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in
the middle ; in this they show the pillar to which St. Paul
was bound, when his head was cut oflF, and from whence
it made three prodigious leaps, Avhere there immediately
broke out the three remaining fountains, which give
denomination to this church. The waters are reported to
be medicinal ; over each is erected an altar and a chained
ladle, for better tasting of the waters. That most excellent
picture of St. Peter's Crucifixion is of Guido.
25th. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some
certain statues and antiquities which, by reason of the
Major-Domo not being within, I could not formerly obtain.
In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse of one of the
family, upon three figures, a modern, but rare piece. About
it stood some Gladiators ; and, at the entrance into one of
the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of Age and
Youth, brought hither from St. Peter's, to make room for
the Longinus under the cupola. Here was the statue of a
ram running at a man on horseback, a most incomparable
expression of Fury, cut in stone ; and a table of pietra-
commessa, very curious. The next chamber was all painted
a fresco, by a rare hand, as was the carving in wood of the
ceihng, which, as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian
mode is, and not poor plaster, as ours are ; some of them
most richly gilt. In a third room, stood the famous
Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent, of
144 DIARY OF [ROME,
Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-relievo ;
the sacrifice to Priapus ; the Egyptian Isis, in the hard black
ophite stone, taken out of the Pantheon, greatly celebrated
by the antiquaries : likewise two tables of brass, containing
divers old Roman laws. At another side of this chamber,
was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling from her
horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, whoever
the artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a Baccha-
nalia, with a most curious Silenus. The fourth room was
totally environed with statues; especially observable was
that so renowned piece of a Venus looking backward over
her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by the old
Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of
them looking on her face in a glass, by M. Angelo ; the
other is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces,
especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are
not to be described by words. The next chamber is also
full of statues ; most of them the heads of Philosophers,
very antique. One of the Csesars and another of Hannibal
cost 1200 crowns. Now I had a second view of that never-
to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo,
the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the
wardrobe above they showed us fine wrought plate, porce-
lain, mazers of beaten and solid gold, set with diamonds,
rubies, and emeralds ; a treasure, especially the workman-
ship considered, of inestimable value. This is all the Duke
of Parma's. Nothing seemed to be more curious and rare
in its kind than the complete service of the purest crj^stal,
for the altar of the chapel, the very bell, cover of a book,
sprinkler, &c., were all of the rock, incomparably sculptured,
with the holy story in deep Levati ; thus was also wrought
the crucifix, chalice, vases, flower-pots, the largest and
purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly I looked
on this as one of the greatest curiosities I had seen in
Rome. In another part, were presses furnished, with
antique arms, German clocks, perpetual motions, watches,
and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient picture
of Pope Eugenius ; a St. Bernard ; and a head of marble
found long since, supposed to be a true portrait of oui*
Blessed Saviour's face.
Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and
countryman of ours, who had some intendency in an
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 145
Hospital built on the Via Triumphalis, called Christ's
Hospital, which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where
the sick lay, was paved with various coloured marbles, and
the walls hung with noble pieces ; the beds are very fair ;
in the middle is a stately cupola, under which is an altar
decked with divers marble statues, all in sight of the sick,
who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds.
The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to
recreate the people in pain. To this joins an apartment
destined for the orphans; and there is a school: the
children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital of
the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give
suck to such children as are accidentally found exposed and
abandoned. In another quarter, are children of a bigger
growth, 450 in number, who are taught letters. In another,
500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious matrons, in a
monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were
at least 2000 more maintained in other places. I think
one apartment had in it near 1000 beds; these are in a
very long room, having an inner passage for those who
attend, with as much care, sweetness, and conveniency as
can be imagined, the Italians being generally very neat.
Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air.
Opposite to this, are other chambers for such as are sick of
maladies of a more rare and difficult cure, and they have
rooms apart. At the end of the long corridor is an apothe-
cary^s shop, fair and very well stored; near which are cham-
bers for persons of better quality, who are yet necessitous.
Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered ta
a treasurer, who makes an inventory, and is accountable
to them, or their representatives, if they die.
To this building joins the house of the commendator,
who, with his officers attending the sick, make up ninety
persons ; besides a convent and an ample church for the
fiiars and priests who daily attend. The church is
extremely neat, and the sacristia is very rich. Indeed it is
altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I
ever saw. Nor is the benefit small which divers young
physicians and chirurgeons reap by the experience they
learn here amongst the sick, to whom those students have
free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near
the Port St. Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua
Paula, being the aqueduct which Augustus had brought to
VOL. I. L
146 DIARY OP [SERMONETTA,
Rome, novr re-edified by Paulus V. ; a rare piece of archi-
tecture, and which serves the city after a journey of thirty-
five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out
of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope.
Situate on a very high mount, it makes a most glorious
show to the city, especially when the sun darts on the
waters as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are :
Paulus V.RomanusPontifex Opt. Max. Aquaeductus ab AugustoCaesare
extructos, sevi longinqua vetustate collapsos, in arapliorem formam
restituit anno salutis M. D. CIX. Pont. V.
And, towards the fields,
Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximas, priori ductu longissimi
temporis injuria pene diruto, sublimiorem
« * ♦ « *
[One or more leaves are here wanting in Mr. Evelyn's MS. descrip-
tive of other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the City.]
Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where
is a public and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and
a stately fountain in the street. Here we lay, and drank
excellent wine.
28th. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all this
morning down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full
of olive-trees ; and, anon, pass a tower built on a rock,
kept by a small guard against the banditti who infest these
parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord
Banbury and his company found to their cost a little
before. To this guard we gave some money, and so were
• suffered to pass, which was still on the Appian to the Tres
TaberncB (whither the brethren came from Rome to meet
"St. Paul, Acts, c. 28) ; the ruins whereof are yet very fair,
resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as
may be judged by the vast stones and fairness of the arched
work. The country environing this passage is hilly, but
rich ; on the right hand stretches an ample plain, being
the Pomptini Campi. We reposed this night at Piperno,
in the post-house without the town ; and here I was
extremely troubled with a sore hand, from a mischance at
Rome, which now began to fester, upon my base, unlucky,
stiff-necked, trotting, carrion mule ; which are the most
wretched beasts in the world. In this town was the poet
Virgil's Camilla born.
The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 147
of about thirty firelocks, to guard us through the cork-
woods (much infested with the banditti) as far as Fossa
Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now stands a
church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas
Aquinas both studied and lies buried. Here we all
alighted, and were most courteously received by the Monks,
who showed us many relics of their learned Saint, and at
the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoof which
he caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old,
built after the Gothic manner; but the place is very
agreeably melancholy. After this, pursuing the same
noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a little), we
found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and after-
wards as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous
Consul, twenty-five feet broad, every twelve feet some-
thing ascending for the ease and firmer footing of horse
and man ; both the sides are also a little raised for those
who travel on foot. The whole is paved with a kind of
beach-stone, and, as I said, ever and anon adorned with
«ome old ruin, sepulchre, or broken statue. In one of
these monuments Pancirollus tells us that, in the time of
Paul III., there was found the body of a young lady,
swimming in a kind of bath of precious oil, or liquor, fresh
and entire as if she had been living, neither her face dis-
coloured, nor her hair disordered; at her feet burnt a
lamp, which suddenly expired at the opening of the vault ;
having flamed, as was computed, now 1500 years, by the
conjecture that she was TulHola, the daughter of Cicero,
whose body was thus found, and as the inscription testified.
We dined this day at Terracina, heretofore the famous,
Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory,
the Cercean by name. Whilst meat was preparing, I
went up into the town, and viewed the fair remainders of
Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a church, adorned
with most stately columns ; its architecture has been ex-
cellent, as may be deduced from the goodly cornices,
mouldings, and huge white marbles of which it is built.
Before the portico stands a pillar thus inscribed :
Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta
Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco.
for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches.
L 2
148 DIARY OF [fonwv
On another more ancient :
Imp. Csesar Divi Nervae Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus
Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. xviii.
Silices sua pecunia stravit.
Meaning, doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then,
Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Praefect. Classis. — Ti,
Julius. T. Fab. optatus ii vir.
Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something
engraven on it, but I could not stay to consider it. Com-
ing down again, I went towards the sea-side to contem-
plate that stupendous strange rock and promontory, cleft
by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this-
is the Cercean Cave, which I went into a good way ; it
makes a dreadful noise, by reason of the roaring and
impetuous waves continually assaulting the beach, and
that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive-
height, stands an old and very great castle. We arrived
this night at Fondi, a most dangerous passage for robbing;
and so we passed by Galba's villa, and anon entered the
kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph saluted
us : " Hospes, hic sunt fines E-egni Neopolitani; si amicus
advenis, pacate omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis,
bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a noble prospect ;
having before considered how it was carried through vast
mountains of rocks for many miles, by most stupendous
labour : here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres
and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing-
hedges. At Fondi, we had oranges and citrons for nothing,
the trees growing in every comer, charged with fruit.
29th. We descried Mount Caecubus, famous for the
generous wine it heretofore produced, and so rid onward
the Appian Way, beset with myrtles, lentiscus's, bays,
pomegranates, and whole groves of orange-trees, and most
delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana pFormiae],
where they showed us Cicero's Tomb, standing in an olive
grove, now a rude heap of stones, without form or beauty ;
for here that incomparable orator was murdered. I shali
never forget how exceedingly I was dehghted with the
sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre mixed amongst all
sorts of verdure ; besides being now come within sight of
the noble city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising
1545,] JOHN EVELYN. 149
prospect along the Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theatre :
and here we beheld that strangely cleft rock, a frightful
spectacle, which they say happened upon the passion of
our Blessed Saviour ; but the haste of our procaccio did not
suft'er us to dwell so long on these objects, and the many
antiquities of this town, as we desired.
At Formi, we saw Cicero's grot, dining at Mola, and
passing Sinuessa, Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and
beheld the ruins of that vast amphitheatre and aqueduct
yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded the old
Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massicus, celebrated for its
wine, now named Garo ; and this night we lodged at a
little village, called St. Agatha, in the Falernian Fields,
near to Aurunca and Sessa.
The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we
come by the Torre di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in dan-
ger from Fabius Maximus, escaped by debauching his
enemies; and so at last we entered the most pleasant
plains of Campania, now called Terra di Lavoro ; in very
truth, I think, the most fertile spot that ever the sun
shone upon. Here we saw the slender ruins of the once
mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome and
Carthage, for splendour and empire, now nothing but a
heap of rubbish, except showing some vestige of its former
magnificence in pieces of temples, arches, theatres, columns,
ports, vaults, colosses, &c., confounded together by the
barbarous Goths and Longobards; there is, however, a
new city, nearer to the road by two miles, fairly raised out
of these heaps. The passage from this town to Naples
(which is about ten or twelve English post miles) is as
straight as a line, of great breadth, fuller of travellers than
I remember any of our greatest and most frequented roads
near London ; but, what is extremely pleasing, is the great
fertility of the fields, planted with fruit-trees, whose boles
are serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant,
that it is commonly reported one vine will load five mules
with its grapes. What adds much to the pleasure of the
sight is, that the vines, climbing to the summit of the trees,
reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to another,
planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful pic-
ture than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes
for sugar, olives, pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges.
150 DIARY OF [NAPLES,
figs, and other sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of
the way is the town Aversa, whither came three or four
coaches to meet our lady-travellers, of whom we now took
leave, having been very merry by the way with them and
the capitano, their gallant.
31st. About noon, we entered the city of Naples,.
alighting at the Three Kings, where we found the most
plentiful fare all the time we were in Naples. Provi-
sions are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down to
fewer than eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat
and fruits.
The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired
a coach to carry us about the town. First, we went to the
castle of St. Elmo, built on a very high rock, whence we
had an entire prospect of the whole city, which lies in
shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circum-
jacent islands, as far as Caprese, famous for the debauched
recesses of Tiberius. This fort is the bridle of the whole
city, and was well stored and garrisoned with native
Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and rareness
of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces,
churches, and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole,
and Mount Vesuvius in the distance, all in full command
of the eye, make it one of the richest landscapes in the
world.
Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called
II Castello Nuovo, which protects the shore ; but they
would by no entreaty permit us to go in ; the outward
defence seems to consist but in four towers, very high,,
and an exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to
this is the tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong.
Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy,
partly old, and part of a newer work ; but we did not stay
long here. Towards the evening, we took the air upon
the Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised in the
sea for security of their galleys in port, built as that of
Grenoa. Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of
the piazza, and adorned with divers rare statues of copper,
representing the Sirens, or Deities, of the Parthenope,
spouting large streams of water into an ample shell, all of
cast metal, and of great cost. This stands at the entrance
of the Mole, where we met many of the nobility both oa
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. ]5I
horseback and in their coaches to take the fresco from the
sea, as the manner is, it being in the most advantageous
quarter for good aii*, delight, and prospect. Here we saw
divers goodly horses who handsomely become their riders,
the Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces
in length, and paved with a square hewn stone. From the
Mole, we ascend to a church, of great antiquity, formerly
sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters carved
on the architrave and the busts of their two statues testify.
It is now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines.
The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and, except
St. Peter's in Rome, Naples exceeds all cities for stately
churches and monasteries. We were told that this day
the blood of St. Januarius and his head should be exposed,
and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of
the boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was
St. Peter's, richly adorned, the chapel especially, where
that Apostle said mass, as is testified on the wall.
After dinner, we went to St. Dominic, where they
showed us the crucifix that is reported to have said these
words to St. Thomas, " Bene de me scripsisti, Thoma,"
Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the monument
of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro.
We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa
Maria Maggiore, where we spent much time in surveying
the chapel of Joli. Jo v. Pontanus, and in it the several
and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself, wife,
children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of record-
ing, as we find them in several writers. In the same
chapel is showed an arm of Titus Livius, with this epi-
graph : " Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. Panormita a
Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post
annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit.''
Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and
church of the Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly
prospect towards the sea and city, the one full of galleys
and ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monas-
teries, castles, gardens, dehcious fields and meadows.
Mount Vesuvius smoking, the Promontory of Minerva
and Misenum, Capreae, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Pu-
teoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the most divertissant
152 DIARY OP [NAPtEs,
and considerable vistas in the world. The church is most
elegantly built ; the very pavements of the common clois-
ter being all laid with variously polished marbles, richly
figured. They showed us a massy cross of silver, much
celebrated for the workmanship and carving, and said to
have been fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also
is of rare art; but above all to be admired, is, the yet
unfinished church of the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished,
not to be equalled in Europe. Hence, we passed by the
Palazzo Caraffi, full of ancient and very noble statues :
also the Palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little
but visit some friends, English merchants, resident for
their negotiation ; only this morning at the Viceroy's
Cavalerizza I saw the noblest horses that I had ever
beheld, one of his sons riding the menage with that
address and dexterity as I had never seen any thing
approach it.
4th February. We were invited to the collection of exotic
rarities in the Museum of Eerdinando Imperati, a Neapo-
litan nobleman, and one of the most observable palaces in
the city, the repository of incomparable rarities. Amongst
the natural herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina
and Pinna marina; the male and female chamelion; an
Onocrotatus j an extraordinary great crocodile ; some of
the Orcades Anates, held here for a great rarity ; likewise
a salamander ; the male and female Manucordiata, the
male having a hollow in the back, in which it is reported
the female both lays and hatches her egg ; the mandrago-
ras, of both sexes ; Papyrus, made of several reeds, and
some of silk ; tables of the rinds of trees, written with
Japonic characters ; another of the branches of palm ;
many Indian fruits ; a crystal that had a quantity of
uncongealed water within its cavity; a petrified fisher's
net ; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a monstrous spider,
with lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger.
5th. This day we beheld the Vice-king's procession,
which was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music
that accompanied the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony
took up most of the morning.
6th. We went by coach to take the air, and see the
diversions, or rather madness, of the Carnival; the
1C45.] JOHN EVELYN. 153
courtesans (who swarm in this city to the number, as we
are told, of 30,000, registered and paying a tax to the
State) flinging eggs of sweet water into our coach, as we
passed by the houses and windows. Indeed, the town is
so pestered with these cattle, that there needs no small
mortification to preserve from their enchantment, whilst
they display all their natural and artificial beauty, play,
sing, feign compliment, and by a thousand studied devices
seek to inveigle foolish young men.
7th. The next day, being Saturday, we went four miles
out of town on mules, to see that famous volcano, Mount
Vesuvius. Here we pass a fair fountain, called LabuUa,
which continually boils, supposed to proceed from Vesu-
vius, and thence over a river and bridge, where, on a large
upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription relative to
the memorable eruption in 1630.*
Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules,
we alighted, crawling up the rest of the proclivity with
great difficulty, now with our feet, now with our hands,
not without many untoward slips which did much bruise
us on the various coloured cinders, with which the whole
mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect
brimstone, others metallic, interspersed with innumerable
pumices (of all which I made a collection), we at the last
gained the summit of an excessive altitude. Turning our
faces towards Naples, it presents one of the goodliest
prospects in the world ; all the Baise, Cuma, Elysian
Fields, Caprese, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that
goodly city, with a great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea,
offering themselves to your view at once, and at so agree-
able a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. The
mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very
sharp, and commonly appearing above any clouds, the
other blunt. Here, as we approached, we met many large
gaping clefts and chasms, out of which issued such sul-
phureous blasts and smoke, that we durst not stand long
near them. Having gained the very summit, I laid myself
down to look over into that most frightful and terrible
vorago, a stupendous pit of near three miles in circuit,
and half a mile in depth, by a perpendicular hollow cliff'
* It may be seeu at length in Wright's Travels, and in Misson's New Voyage
to Italy, vol. i., p. 431.
254 DIARY OF [VESUVIUS^
(like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now
and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at
the bottom is plane, like an even floor, which seems to be
made by the winds circling the ashes by its eddy blasts.
In the middle and centre is a hill, shaped like a great
brown loaf, appearing to consist of sulphureous matter^
continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting^
huge stones with an impetuous noise and roaring, like the
report of many muskets discharging. This horrid bara-
thrum engaged our attention for some hours, both for the
strangeness of the spectacle and the mention which the
old histories make of it, as one of the most stupendous-
curiosities in natui'e, and which made the learned and
inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the causes,
and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It is likewise
famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus, who did
so much mischief to the State, lurking amongst, and pro-
tected by, these horrid caverns, when it was more acces-
sible and less dangerous than it is now ; but especially
notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in anno
1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the
memory of history ; throwing out huge stones and fiery
pumices in such quantity, as not only environed the
whole mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed divers
towns and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more
than a hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those
vineyards, where formerly grew the most incomparable
Greco ; when, bursting through the bowels of the earth,
it absorbed the very sea, and, with its whirling waters,
drew in divers galleys and other vessels to their destruc-
tion, as is faithfully recorded. We descended with more
ease than we climbed up, through a deep valley of pure
ashes, which at the late eruption was a flowing river of
melted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules
at the foot of the mountain.
On Sunday, we with oiu* guide visited the so much cele-
brated Baia, and natural rarities of the places adjacent.
Here we entered the mountain Pausilypus, at the left
hand of which they showed us Virgil's sepulchre erected
on a steep rock, in form of a small rotunda, or cupolated
column, but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay
trees. At the entrance, is this inscription :
1G45.] JOHN EVELYN. 155
Stanisi Cencovius.
1589.
Qui cineres ? Tumuli hffic vestigia, conditur olim
lUe hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces.
Can Ree MDLIIL*
After we were advanced into this noble and altogether
wonderful crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough
for two coaches to go abreast, cut through a rocky moun-
tain near three quarters of a mile (by the ancient Cimmerii
as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who em-
ployed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the
midway, where there is a well bored through the diameter
of this vast mountain, which admits the light into a pretty
chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, wherein hang divers
lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under foot,
but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively
in this much-frequented passage, that we were forced at
mid-day to use a torch. At length, we were delivered from
the bowels of the earth into one of the most delicious
plains in the world : the oranges, lemons, promegranates,.
and other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green
trees; for the summer is here eternal, caused by the
natural and adventitious heat of the earth, warmed
through the subterranean fires, as was shown us by our
guide, who alighted, and, cutting up a turf with his knife,
and delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able ta
hold it in my hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful
in vines, and exotics grow readily.
"We now came to a lake, of about two miles in circum-
ference, environed with hills ; the water of it is fresh and
sweet on the surface, but salt at bottom ; some mineral salt
conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported of that pro-
fun ditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people
call it Lago d'Agnano, from the multitude of serpents
which, involved together about the spring, fall down from
the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor will any live in
* Such is the inscription, as copied by Mr. Evelyn ; but, aa its sense is not
very cleai', and as the Diary contains instances of incorrectness in tran-
scribing, the Editor has thought it desirable to subjoin the distich said
(by Keysler in his Travels, vol. ii., p. 433) to be the only one in the whole-
mausoleum :
QuJB cineris tumulo hsec vestigia I conditur olim
lUe hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces.
256 DIARY OF [lago d'agnano,
it. We tried the old experiment on a dog in the Grotto
del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above three or four
paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad.
Whatever having life enters it, presently expires. Of
this, we made trial with two dogs, one of which we bound
to a short pole to guide him the more directly into the
further part of the den, where he was no sooner entered,
but — without the least noise, or so much as a struggle,
except that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue,
his eyes being fixed ; — we drew him out dead to all appear-
ance; but immediately plunging him into the adjoining
lake, within less than half an hour he recovered, and,
swimming to shore, ran away from us. We tried the same
on another dog, without the application of the water, and
left him quite dead. The experiment has been made on
men, as on that poor creature whom Peter of Toledo
caused to go in ; likewise on some Turkish slaves ; two
soldiers, and other fool-hardy persons, who all perished,
and could never be recovered by the water of the lake, as
are dogs; for which many learned reasons have been
off'ered, as Simon Majolus in his book of the Canicular-
days has mentioned, coUoq. 15. And certainly the most
likely is, the effect of those hot and dry vapours which
ascend out of the earth, and are condensed by the ambient
cold, as appears by their converting into crystalline drops
on the top, whilst at the bottom it is so excessively hot,
that a torch being extinguished near it, and lifted a Httle
distance, was suddenly re-lighted.
Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain,
of the nature of sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned
with stone for the sick to sweat in, the vapours here being
exceedingly hot, and of admirable success in the gout, and
other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climbed
up a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking
with heat like a furnace. The mountains were by the
Greeks called Leucogaei, and the fields Phlegraean. Her-
cules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning.
We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a
valley near a quarter of a mile in breadth, the margent
environed with steep cliffs, out of whose sides and foot
break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a noise
like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in loud
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 157
reports, like so many guns. The heat of this place is won-
derful, the earth itself being almost unsufferable, and
•which the subterranean fires have made so hollow, by
having wasted the matter for so many years, that it sounds
like a drum to those who walk upon it; and the water
thus struggling with those fires, bubbles and spouts aloft
into the air. The mouths of these spiracles are bestrewed
with variously-coloured cinders, which rise with the vapour,
as do many coloured stones, according to the quality of
the combustible matter, insomuch as it is no Kttle adven-
ture to approach them. They are, however, daily fre-
quented both by sick and well ; the former receiving the
fumes, have been recovered of diseases esteemed incurable.
Here we found a great deal of sulphur made, which they
refine in certain houses near the place, casting it into
canes, to a very great value. Near this we were showed a
hill of alum, where is one of the best mineries, yielding a
considerable revenue. Some flowers of brass are found
here; but I could not but smile at those who persuade
themselves that here are the gates of purgatory (for which
it may be they have erected, very near it, a convent, and
named it St. Januarius), reporting to have often heard
screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from these
caverns and volcanoes ; with other legends of birds that are
never seen, save on Sundays, which cast themselves into
the lake at night, appearing no more all the week after.
We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple,
or theatre, of 172 feet in length, and about eighty in
breadth, thrown down by an earthquake, not long since ;
it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are
many strange meanders ; from which it is named the
Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted with bats, that their
perpetual fluttering endangered the putting-out our links.
Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking
hills, till we came to Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli,
the landing-place of St. Paul, when he came into Italy,
after the tempest described in the Acts of the Apostles.
Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medals,
antiquities, and other curiosities, of the country-people,
who daily find such things amongst the very old ruins of
those places. This town was formerly a Greek colony,
built by the Samians, a reasonable commodious port, and
J58 DIARY OF [pozzoLo,
full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruins of
Neptune's Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and
near it the stately Palace and gardens of Peter de Toledo,
formerly mentioned. Afterwards, we visited that admirably
built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn
out of an entire rock, though indeed consisting of seA'eral
square stones. The inscription remains thus : " L. Cal-
phurnius L. F. Templum Augusto cum ornamentis D.D. ; "
and under it; "L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus
Architectus." It is now converted into a church, in which
they showed us huge bones, which they affirm to have
been of some giant.
We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact
with that bituminous sand in which the materials are laid,
as the like is hardly to be found, though all this has not
been sufficient to protect it from the fatal concussions of
several earthquakes (frequent here) which have^ almost
demolished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remain-
ing ; a stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune ! To
this joins the bridge of Caligula, by which (having now
embarked ourselves) we sailed to the pleasant Baia, almost
four miles in length, all which way that proud Emperor
would pass in triumph. Here we rowed along towards a
villa of the orator Cicero's, where we were showed the
ruins of his Academy ; and, at the foot of a rock, his Baths,
the waters reciprocating their tides with the neighbouring
sea. Hard at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I
conceived, nothing save a heap of pumices, which here
float in abundance on the sea, exhausted of all inflammable
matter by the fire, which renders them light and porous,
so as the beds of nitre, which lie deep under them, having
taken fire, do easily eject them. They dig much for
fancied treasure said to be concealed about this place.
From hence, we coasted near the ruins of Portus Julius,
where we might see divers stately palaces that had been
swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes. Coming to
shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore
for its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being
divided from the sea by a bank of incredible labour, the
supposed work of Hercules ; it is now half choked up with
rubbish, and by part of the new mountain, which rose
partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 159
space of one niglit and a day, to a very great altitude, on
the 29th September, 1538, after many terrible earthquakes,
•which ruined divers places thereabout, when at midnight
the sea retiring near 200 paces, and yawning on the sud-
den, it continued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in
such quantity, as produced this whole mountain by their
fall, making the inhabitants of Pozzolo to leave their
habitations, supposing the end of the world had been
come.
From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake
Avernus, of a round form, and totally environed with
mountains. This lake was feigned by the Poet for the
gates of hell, by which -^neas made his descent, and
where he sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters
are of a remarkable black colour; but I tasted of them
without danger ; hence, they feign that the river Styx has
its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a
temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is con-
troverted. Opposite to this, having new lighted our
torches, we enter a vast cave, in which having gone about
two hundred paces, we pass a narrow entry which leads us
into a room of about ten paces long, proportionable broad
and high ; the side walls and roof retain still the golden
mosaic, though now exceedingly decayed by time. Here
is a short cell, or rather niche, cut out of the solid rock,
somewhat resembling a couch, in which they report
that the Sibylla lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is
supposed by most to have been a bath only. This subter-
ranean grot leads quite through to Cuma, but is in some
places obstructed by the earth which has sunk in, so as we
were constrained back again, and to creep on our bellies,
hefore we came to the light. It is reported Nero had
once resolved to cut a channel for two great galleys that
should have extended to Ostia, 150 miles distant. The
people now call it Licola.
From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of
Italy, the renowned Cuma, built by the Grecians. It
stands on a very eminent promontory, but is now a heap
of ruins. A little below, stands the Arco FeHce, hereto-
fore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers
goodly buildings; amongst whose heaps are frequently
found statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for
1(50 DIARY OP [misenos,
them. Near this is the Lake Acherutia, and Acheron.
Returning to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli
and Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut
through the main rock, where the vapours ascend so hot,
that entering with the body erect you will even faint with
excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as sudden a
cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request
for many infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the
Baise, where once stood that famous town, so called from
the companion of Ulysses here buried ; not without great
reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that
the sun shines on, according to that of Horace :
Nullus in Orbe locus Balis prselucet amoenis.
Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little
save the ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana^s
Temple, and another of Venus. Here were those famous
poles of lampreys that would come to hand when called by
name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock
stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from
Turkish pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius
Csesar.
Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, obser-
vable from the monstrous murder of Nero committed on
his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre was yet showed us
in the rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry
heads and figures of ^beasts. We saw there the roots of a
tree turned into stone, and are continually dropping.
Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria,
the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and
other villas and antiquities, we proceeded towards the
promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre
of iEneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now
hardly a ruin, said to have been built from this place
to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles distant, now
discontinued and demolished by the frequent earth-
quakes. Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tibe-
rius Caesar died ; and here runs the Aqueduct, thought to
be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly
arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we
walked to those receptacles of water called Piscina Mira-
bilis, being a vault of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 16]^
breadth, the roof propped up with four ranks of square
pillars, twelve in a row ; the walls are brick, plastered over
with such a composition as for strength and politure
resembles white marble. 'Tis conceived to have been
built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh water ; as were
also the Centi Camerelli, into which we were next led.
All these crypta being now almost sunk into the earth,
show yet their former amplitude and magnificence.
Returning towards the Baia, we again pass the Elysian
Fields, so celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their
situation and verdure, being full of myrtles and sweet
shrubs, and having a most delightful prospect towards the
Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the ruins
of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus ; over the
arches stand divers urns, full of Roman ashes.
Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiqui-
ties, we retired to our felucca, which rowed us back again
towards Pozzolo, at the very place of St. Paul's landing.
Keeping along the shore, they showed us a place where
"the sea-water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to
•the island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; and thus we
leave the Baia, so renowned for the sweet retirements of
"the most opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly
were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet tempting
•site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily
invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so
many stupendous rarities to be met with, as in the circle of
a few miles which environ these blissful abodes.
8th. Returned to Naples, we went to see the Arsenal,
well furnished with galleys and other vessels. The city
is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants.
The government is held of the Pope by an annual
tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the
Spaniard trusts more to the power of those his natural
subjects there ; Apulia and Calabria yielding him near
four millions of crowns yearly to maintain it. The country
is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty Archbishops,
and one-hundred-and-seven Bishops ; the estates of the
nobility, in default of the male line, reverting to the King.
Besides the Vice-Roy, there is amongst the Chief Magis-
trates a High Constable, Admiral, Chief Justice, Great
Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a Secretary; these
VOL. I. M
1Q^ DIARY OF [NAPLES,
being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully enricli them-
selves out of the miserable people's labour, silks, manna,
sugar, oil, wine, rice, sulphur, and alum ; for with all these
riches is this delicious country blest. The manna falls at
certain seasons on the adjoining hills in form of a thick
dew. The very winter here is a summer, ever fruitful, so
that in the middle of February we had melons, cherries,
apricots, and many other sorts of fruit.
The building of the city is for the size the most magni-
ficent of any in Europe, the streets exceeding large, well-
paved, having many vaults and conveyances under them
for the sulliage ; which renders them very sweet and clean,
even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than
3000 churches and monasteries, and these the best built
and adorned of any in Italy. They greatly affect the
Spanish gravity in their habit ; dehght in good horses ;
the streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches and
sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir
Sanders Duncomb. The women are generally well-featured,
but excessively libidinous. The country-people so jovial
and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen almost
universally play on the guitar, singing and composing songs
in praise of their sweethearts, and will commonly go to the
field with their fiddle ; they are merry, witty, and genial ;
all which I much attribute to the excellent quality of the
air. They have a deadly hatred to the French, so that
some of our company were flouted at for wearing red cloaks,
as the mode then was.
This I made the non ultra of my travels, suflSciently
sated with rolling up and down, and resolving within
myself to be no longer an individuum vagum, if ever I got
home again ; since, from the report of divers experienced
and curious persons, I had been assured there was little
more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy,
France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and
prodigious barbarism.
Thus, about the 7th of February, we set out on our re-
turn to Rome by the same way we came, not daring to
adventure by sea, as some of our company were inclined to
do, for fear of Tm'kish pirates hovering on that coast ; nor
made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated
place and sepulchre of the famous duellists who decided the
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 163
ancient quarrel between their imperious neighbours with
the loss of their lives. These brothers, the Horatii and
Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under two ancient
pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and overgrown
with rubbish. We took the opportunity of tasting the
wine here, which is famous.
Being arrived at Rome on the 13th February, we were
again invited to Signor Angeloni's study,* where with
greater leisure we surveyed the rarities, as his cabinet and
medals especially, esteemed one of the best collections of
them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps,
one of them dedicated to Pallas, the other Laribus Sacru',
as appeared by their inscriptions ; some old Roman rings
and keys ; the Egyptian Isis, cast in iron ; sundry rare
basso-relievos; good pieces of painting, principally the
Christ of Correggio, with this painter's own face admirably
done by himself ; divers of both the Bassanos ; a great
number of pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs ;
an infinity of natural rarities, dried animals, Indian habits
and weapons, shells, &c. ; divers very antique statues of
brass ; some lamps of so fine an earth, that they resembled
cornelians, for transparency and colour ; hinges of Corin-
thian brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in
the ruins of Nero's golden house.
In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the
Palace of Gichi,t to review the works of Raphael : and,
returning by St. Angelo, we saw the castle as far as was
permitted, and on the other side considered those admirable
pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons
Sublicius, over which Horatius Codes passed ; here anchor
three or four water-mills, invented by Belizarius : and
thence had another sight of the Farnesi's gardens, J and
of the terrace where is that admirable painting of Raphael,
being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought k fresco,
preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being
certainly one of the most wonderful pieces of work in the
world.
14th. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and
endowed by Cardinal Sfrondaeti, who has erected a
stately altar near the body of this martyr, not long before
found in a vesture of silk girt about, a veil on her head,
♦ See p. 110. t See. p. 134. J See p. 102.
m2
164 DIARY OF [romk,
and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck ; the
body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in
snow-white marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with
splendid ornaments, lamps, and incensories of great cost.
A little farther, they show us the Bath of St. Cecilia, to
which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of the
Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico,
taken from the Baths of Septimius Severus.
15th. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tyber, and
visited the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's),
formerly cut in the shape of a ship, and wharfed with
marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the mast.
In the Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the
Apostle. Here are the ruins of the Temple of ^scula-
pius, now converted into a stately hospital and a pretty
convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church of St.
John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old
broken altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis.
Hence, we went to a cupola, now a church, formerly dedi-
cated to the Sun. Opposite to it, Santa Maria Schola
Grseca, where formerly that tongue was taught, said to
be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed
Virgin, bearing also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind
this stands the great altar of Hercules, much demolished.
Near this, being at the foot of Mount Aventine, are the
Pope's salt-houses. Ascending the hill, we came to St.
Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana;
there, in a chapel, is an admirable picture, the work of
Livia Fontana, set about with columns of alabaster, and
in the middle of the church is a stone, cast, as they report,
by the Devil at St. Dominic, whilst he was at mass. Hence,
we travelled towards a heap of rubbish, called the Marmo-
rata, on the bank of the Tyber, a magazine of stones, and
near which formerly stood a triumphal arch, in honour of
Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins of the
bridge yet appear.
We were now got to Mons Testaceus, an heap of pot-
sherds, almost 200 feet high, thought to have been thrown
there and amassed by the subjects of the Commonwealth
bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more
probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters
lived; at the summit Rome affords a noble prospect.
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 165
Before it is a spacious green, called the Hippodrome,
where Olympic games were celebrated, and the people
mustered, as in our London Artillery- ground. Going
hence, to the old wall of the city, we much admired the
pj'^ramid, or tomb, of Caius Cestius, of white marble, one
of the most ancient entire monuments, inserted in the
wall, with this inscription :
"C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pi. VII.
Vir. Epulonum."
And a little beneath :
" Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti
P. F. Cla. Melffi Heredis et Pothi L."
At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Ter-
gemina, out of which the three Horatii passed to encounter
the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, bending homewards by
St. Saba, by Antoninus's Baths (which we entered) is the
marble Sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the
walls and stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of
these baths. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus,
we viewed the place where stood the Septizonium, demo-
lished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by
Mons. Ccelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in
Navicula, so named from a ship carved out in white
marble standing on a pedestal before it, supposed to be the
vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a 'glorious
front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Horti
Mathsei, which only of all the places about the city I
omitted visiting, though I was told inferior to no garden
in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, aviaries, foun-
tains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and main-
tained in beauty at an expense of 6000 crowns yearly,
which, if not expended to keep up its beauty, forfeits the
possession of a greater revenue to another family; so
curious are they in their villas and places of pleasure, even
to excess.
The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Cara-
calla, in the midst of which there now lay prostrate one
of the most stately and ancient obelisks, full of Egyptian
hieroglj'phics. It was broken into four pieces, when over-
thrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased
and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas
156 DIARY OF [ROME,
Earl of Arundel^ could it have been well removed to the
sea. This is since set together and placed on the stupen-
dous artificial rock made by Innocent X., and serving for
a fountain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the
Pope's architect. Near this is the Sepulchre of Metellus,
of massy stone, pretty entire,, now called Capo di Bove.
Hence, to a small oratory, named Domine quo vadis,
where the tradition is, that our Blessed Saviour met St.
Peter as he fled, and turned him back again.
St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the
facciata excepted), but is venerable, especially for the
relics and grots in which lie the ashes of many holy men.
Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with the blood
of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid ; also a
well fuU of martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebas-
tian, with one of the arrows [used in shooting him].
These are preserved by the Fulgentine Monks, who have
here their monastery, and who led us down into a grotto
which they affirmed went divers furlongs under ground ;
the sides, or walls, which we passed were filled with bones
and dead bodies, laid (as it were) on shelves, whereof some
were shut up with broad stones, and now and then a cross,
or a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these sub-
terranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them,
said to have been the receptacles of primitive Christians,
in the times of persecution, nor seems it improbable.
17 th. I was invited, after dinner, to the Academy
of the Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belonging
to Signer Mancini, where the wits of the town meet
on certain days to recite poems, and debate on several
subjects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and
stands in an eminent place, and then the rest of the Vir-
tuosi recite in order. By these ingenious exercises, besides
the learned discourses, is the purity of the Italian tongue
daily improved. The room is hung round with devices, or
emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several
other Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical
titles. In this of the Humorists is the picture of Guarini,
the famous author of the Pastor Fido, once of this societ3^
The chief part of the day we spent in hearing the academic
exercises.
18th. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has
164o.J JOHN EVELYN. 1(57
a fair front, and within are parts of the bodies of St.
Mark and Marcellino; on the Tribuna is a painting of
Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval ; Baglioni, Avith some
other rare paintings. Coming round from hence, we
passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now
totally in ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English
Jesuits, with whose Superior, P. Stafford, I was well ac-
quainted; who received us courteously. They call their
church and college St. Thomasso de gli Inglesi, and is a
seminary. Amongst other trifles, they show the relics of
Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one
of Durante, and many representing the sufferings of
several of their society executed in England, especially
r. Campion.
In the Hospital of the Pelerini deUa S. Trinitk, I had
seen the feet of many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardi-
nals, and noble Romans, and served at table, as the ladies
and noble women did to other poor creatures in another
room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had
been thus treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500
women, as appears by the register, which brings store of
money.
Returning homeward, I saw the Palace of Cardinal
Spada, where is a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel
da Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who made the fret in
the little Court ; but the rare perspectives are of Bolognesi.
Near this is the Monte Pieta, instituted as a bank for the
poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon
pawns. To this joins St. Martino, to which belongs a
Schola, or Corporation, that do many works of charity.
Hence, we came through Campo di Fieri, or herb -market,
in the midst of which is a fountain casting water out of a
dolphin, in copper ; and in this piazza is common execu-
tion done.
19th. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord John
Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who had
his apartment in Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to
Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as Vice-chancellor of the
Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The
biulding is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted
marble, with four ranks of noble lights; the principal
entrance is of Fontana's design, and all marble; the
168 DIARY OF [ROMir,
portico within sustained by massy columns ; on the second
peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by Sal-
viati and Vasari ; and so ample is this Palace, that six
princes with their families have been received in it at one
time, without incommoding each other.
20th. I went as was my usual custom and spent an.
afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well to see what anti-
quities I could purchase among the people who hold
market there for medals, pictures, and such curiosities, a&
to hear the Mountebanks prate, and distribute their medi-
cines. This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedi-
cated to sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest mar-
ket of the city, having three most noble fountains, and.
the stately palaces of the Pamfilii, St. Giacomo de Spag-
noli belonging to that nation, to which add two convents
for Friars and Nuns, all Spanish. In this church was.
erected a most stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente, for
the death of the Queen of Spain ; the church was hung
with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon, or funebraL
oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses
hung about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with
thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious
show. The statue of St. James is by Sansovino ; there are
also some good pictures of Caracci. The facciata, too, is
fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old
Pasquin, at the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia ;
here they still paste up their drolling lampoons and scur-
rilous papers. This had formerly been one of the best
statues for workmanship and art in all the city, as the
remaining bust does still show.
21st. I walked in the morning up the hill towards
the Capuchins, where was then Cardinal O'nufrio (brother
to the late Pope Urban VIII.) of the same order.
He built them a pretty church, full of rare pictures, and
there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still does
miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc.
It is a lofty edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in
a good air. After dinner, passing along the Strada del
Corso, I observed the column of Antoninus, passing under
Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, heretofore erected
in honour of Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a Car-
dinal living near it. A little further on the right hand.
1645.] JOHN EVELYX. 169
stands the column in a small piazza^ heretofore set up in
honour of M. Aurelius Antoninus, comprehending in a
basso-relievo of white marble his hostile acts against the
Parthians, Armenians, Germans, &c. ; but it is now some-
what decaj'ed. On the summit has been placed the image
of St. Paul, of gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161
feet high, ascended by 207 steps, receiving light by fifty-
six apertures, without defacing the sculpture.
At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor's
Palace, the heads of whose pillars show them to have been
Corinthian.
Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in
which stands a sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair
fountain ; but the grace of this market, and indeed the
admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, now
called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all
the Gods, and still remaining the most entire antiquity of
the city. It was built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the
architrave of the portico, sustained by thirteen pillars of
Thebau marble,'six feet thick, and fifty-three in height, of
one entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription.
Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly
covered with one cupola, seemingly suspended in the air,
and receiving light by a hole in the middle only. The
structure is near as high as broad, viz. 144 feet, not count-
ing the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more
to the top, all of white marble, and tiU Urban VIII. con-
verted part of the metal into ordnance of war against the
Duke of Parma, and part to make the high altar in St.
Peter's, it was all over covered with Corinthian brass,
ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of
the cupola, richly carved with octagons in the stone.
There are niches in the walls, in which stood heretofore
the statues of Jupiter and the other Gods and Goddesses ;
for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the
other Union* that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and
• And in the cup an union shall he throw,
Richer than that which four successive kings
In Denmark's crown have worn.
Shakspeare, Hamlet, Act v. Sc. 2,
ed. Johnson and Steevens.
Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place in all
170 DIARY OF [ROME,
drink up, as she had done its fellow. There are several of
these niches, one above another, for the celestial, terrestrial,
and subterranean deities ; but the place is now converted
into a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and all the
Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding-
gates, of Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the
Roman antiquities the most worthy of notice. There lie
interred in this Temple the famous Raphael di Urbino,
Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters.
Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan^s Palace,
a noble piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti,
which is the grace of the whole Corso.
22nd. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monastery
of French, a noble church built by Louis XI. and
Charles VIII., the chapels well painted, especially that
by Zuccari, Volterra, and the cloister with the miracles
of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French
Kings. In the pergolo above, the walls are wrought with
excellent perspective, especially the St. John; there are
the Babylonish dials, invented by Kircher, the Jesuit.
This convent, so eminently situated on Mons Pincius, has
the entire prospect of Campus Martins, and has a fair
garden which joins to the Palazzo di Medici.
23rd. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo de gli
Incurabili, a fair church built by F. Volaterra, of good
architecture, and so is the hospital, where only desperate
patients are brought. I passed the evening at St. Maria
del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, where his ashes
lay many years in a marble chest. To this church joins
the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens
on Mons Pincius, and in the church is the miraculous
shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul III. brought
barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over
the Turks, in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some
rare paintings of Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those
two in the choir are by Sansovino, and in the chapel de
Cerasii, a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many great
crowns and coronets. Steevens cites from Soliman and Persida — " Ay, were
it Cleopatra's vnion" — adding the following elucidation of the term from P.
Holland's Translation of Pliny's Natural History : " And hereupon it is that
our dainties and delicates here at Rome, &c. call them unions, as a man would
say singular and by themselves alone." Edit.
1645.] JOHN ETELYN. I7I
scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscrip-
tion:
Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis,
Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo.
Opposite to the facciatce of the church is a superb
obelisk full of hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus,
King of Egypt, dedicated to the Sun, brought to Rome by
Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and since
placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet
high, of one entire stone, and placed with great art and
engines by the famous Domenico Fontana.
Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo,
we came to Justinian's gardens, near the Muro Torto, so
prominently built as threatening every moment to fall, yet
standing so for these thousand years. Under this is the
burying-place for the common prostitutes, where they are
put into the ground, sans ceremonie.
24th. We walked to St. Roche's and Martine's,
near the brink of the Tyber, a large hospital for both
sexes. Hence, to the Mausoleum Augusti, betwixt the
Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruined, which had
formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was
intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had
twelve ports, and was covered with a cupola of white
marble, environed with stately trees and innumerable
statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We passed
the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full
of good marbles, especially the portico, of admirable archi-
tecture. These are properly the University Schools,
where lectures are read on Law, Medicine, and Anatomy,
and students perform their exercises.
Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della
Valle, near the former Theatre of Pompey, and the famous
Piccolomini, but given to this church and the Order, who
are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a chapel,
of curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare
paintings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is
said to have been beaten with rods before he was shot with
darts. The cupola is painted by Lanfranc, an inestimable
work, and the whole fabric and monastery adjoining are
admirable.
X72 DIARY OP [romk,
25th. I was invited by a Dominican Friar, whom
we usually heard preach to a number of Jews, to be
god-father to a converted Turk and Jew. The ceremony
was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la
Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white;
then exorcised at their entering the church with abund-
ance of ceremonies, and, when led into the choir, were
baptized by a Bishop, in pontificalibus. The Turk lived
afterwards in Rome, sold hot waters, and would bring us
presents when he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems
of our cloaks ; but the Jew was believed to be a counter-
feit. This church, situated on a spacious rising, was
formerly consecrated to Minerva. It was well built and
richly adorned, and the body of St. Catharine di Sienna
lies buried here. The paintings of the chapel are by
Marcello Venuti; the Madonna over the altar is by
Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic Painter, who was of
the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt
publicly here, especially at the procession on the Annun-
ciation, when I saw his Holiness, with all the Cardinals,
Prelates, &c., in pontificalibus ; dowries being given to 300
poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on
his head, and was carried on men^s shoulders in an open
arm-chair, blessing the people as he passed. The statue
of Christ, at the Columna, is esteemed one of the master-
pieces of M. Angelo : innumerable are the paintings by
the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of the
sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We
returned by St. Mark's, a stately church, with an excel-
lent pavement, and a fine piece by Perugino, of the Two
Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace bmlt by the
famous Bramante,
26th. Ascending the hill, we came to the Forum
Trajanura, where his column stands yet entire, wrought
with admirable basso-relievo recording the Dacian war,
the figures at the upper part appearing of the same
proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps,
enlightened with 44< apertures, or windows, artificially
disposed ; in height from the pedestal 140 feet.
It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where
now stands St. Peter's, of gilt brass, erected by Pope
Sextus V. The sculpture of this stupendous piUar is
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. • I73
thought to be the work of ApoUodorus ; but what is very-
observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal,
showing how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins ;
this monument being at first set up on a rising ground.
After dinner, we took the air in Cardinal Bentivoglio's
delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had a
fair palace built by several good masters on part of the
ruins of Constantino's Baths : well adorned with columns
and paintings, especially those of Guido Rheni.
27th. In the morning, Mr. Henshaw and myself
walked to the Trophies of Marius, erected in honour
of his victory over the Cimbrians, but these now taken
out of their niches are placed on the balusters of the
Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruin.
Keeping on our way, we came to St. Croce of Jerusalem,
built by Constantino over the demolition of the Temple of
Venus and Cupid, which he threw down ; and it was here
they report he deposited the wood of the true Cross found
by his mother, Helena ; in honour whereof this church was
built, and in memory of his victory over Maxentius when
that holy sign appeared to him. The edifice without
is Gothic, but very glorious within, especially the roof, and
one tribuna (gallery) well painted. Here is a chapel dedi-
cated to St. Helena, the floor whereof is of earth brought
from Jerusalem ; the walls are of fair mosaic, in which
they suffer no women to enter, save once a year. Under
the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in
Lydian marble, and Benedict VII. ; and they show a
number of relics, exposed at our request, with a phial
of our blessed Saviour's blood; two thorns of his crown;
three chips of the real cross ; one of the nails, wanting a
point ; St. Thomas's doubting finger ; and a fragment of
the title [put on the cross], being part of a thin board;
some of Judas's pieces of silver ; and many more, if one
had faith to believe it. To this venerable Church joins a
Monastery, the gardens taking up the space of an ancient
amphitheatre.
Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port
of St. Laurence, to that Saint's church, and where
his ashes are enshrined. This was also built by the
same great Constantino, famous for the coronation of
Pietro Altissiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by
Honorius the Second. It is said the corpse of St.
174 DIARY OP [ROME,
Stephen, tlie proto-martyr, was deposited here by that of
St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touched, but Sebas-
tian gave it place of its own accord. The Church has no
less than seven privileged altars, and excellent pictures.
About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferin gs ; and, when
they built them, the bones of divers saints were translated to
other churches. The front is Gothic. In our return, we
saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius,
the praetor j and so passed through that incomparable straight
street leading to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging,
suflBciently tired.
We were taken up next morning in seeing the imperti-
nences of the Carnival, when all the world are as mad at
E-ome as at other places ; but the most remarkable were the
three races of the Barbary horses, that run in the Strada
del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on
their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their
motion to stimulate them ; then of mares, then of asses,
of buffalos, naked men, old and young, and boys, and
abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing is
remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on
a cart, or plamtrum, where the scene, or tiring-place, is
made of boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from
street to street with a yoke or two of oxen, after the ancient
guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, buffoons, and
all manner of rabble.
1st March. At the Greek Church, we saw the Eastern
ceremonies performed by a Bishop, &c., in that tongue.
Here the unfortunate Duke and Duchess of Bouillon
received their ashes, it being the first day of Lent ; there was
now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as the day
before of licentious people ; all saints ahke to appearance.
The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very
full of statues and antiquities, especially urns; amongst
which is that of Minutius Felix ; a terminus that formerly
stood in the Appian way, and a huge colosse of the Emperor
Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the
whole gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady,
and adorned with noble fountains. Continuing our walk
a mile farther, we came to Pons Milvius, now JSIela, where
Constantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the miraculous
sign of the cross, In hoc signo vinces. It was a sweet
morning, and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence,
1C45.] JOHN EVELYN. 175
to Aqua Claudia again, an aqueduct finished by that
Emperor at the expense of eight millions. In the afternoon,
to Farnese's gardens, near the Campo Vaccino ; and upon
the Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of Juno's Temple,
in the Piscina, a piazza so called near the famous bridge
built by Antoninus Pius, and re-edilfied by Pope Sextus IV.
The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear
the sermons, at St. Peter's, of the most famous preachers,
who discourse on the same subjects and texts yearly, full
of Italian eloquence and action. On our Lady-day, 25th
March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the
Minerva, the great guns of the Castle St. Angelo being
fired, when he gives portions to 500 zitelle [young women],
who kiss his feet in procession, some destined to marry,
some to be nuns ; — the scholars of the college celebrating
the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next day,
his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent
to several great Princes ; the Procurator of the Carmelites
preaching on our Saviour's feeding the multitude with five
loaves, the ceremony ends. The sacrament being this day
exposed, and the rehcs of the Holy Cross, the concourse
about the streets is extraordinary. On Palm-Sunday,
there was a great procession, after a papal mass.
11th April. St. Veronica's handkerchief [with the
impression of our Saviour's face] was exposed, and the next
day the spear, with a world of ceremony. On Holy Thurs-
day, the Pope said mass, and afterwards carried the Host
in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers.
This finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on
men's shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull
in Coend Domini, he both curses and blesses all in a breath ;
then the guns are again fired. Hence, he went to the
Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of
twelve poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is
done at Whitehall ; they have clothes, a dinner, and alms,
which he gives with his own hands, and serves at their
table; they have also gold and silver medals, but their
garments are of white wooUen long robes, as we paint the
Apostles. The same ceremonies are done by the Conser-
vators and other officers of state at St. John di Lateran ;
and now the table on which they say our blessed Lord
celebrated his last supper is set out, and the heads of the
176 DIARY OF [aoME,
Apostles. In every famous church they are busy in dres-
sing up their pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre,
of which we went to visit divers.
On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter's, where
the handkerchief, lance, and cross were all exposed, and
worshipped together. All the confession-seats were filled
with devout people, and at night was a procession of several
who most lamentably whipped themselves till the blood
stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the
bare back, having visors and masks on their faces ; at every
three or four steps dashing the knotted and ravelled whip-
cord over their shoulders, as hard as they could lay it on ;
whilst some of the religious orders and fraternities sung
in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before,
making altogether a horrible and indeed heathenish
pomp.
The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di
Lateran, so as the whole week was spent in running from
church to church, all the town in busy devotion, great
silence, and unimaginable superstition.
Easter-day, I was awakened by the guns from St. Angelo:
we went to St. Peter's, where the Pope himself celebrated
mass, showed the relics before-named, and gave a public
Benediction.
Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova,
and though there were abundance of ceremonies at the
other great churches, and great exposure of relics ; yet
being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season of
the year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by
reason of the heats minding us of returning northwards,
we spent the rest of our time in visiting such places as we
had not yet sufficiently seen ; only I do not forget the
Pope's benediction of the Confalone, or Standard, and
giving the hallowed palms ; and, on May-day, the great
procession of the University and the muleteers at St.
Antony's, and their setting up a foolish May-pole in the
Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took coach a
little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterranea,
being much like what we had seen at St. Sebastian's.
Here, in a corn-field, guided by two torches, we crept on
our bellies into a little hole, about twenty paces, which
delivered us into a large entry that led us into several
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 177
streets, or alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the earth, a
strange and fearful passage for divers miles, as Bosio has
measured and described them in his book.* We ever and
anon came into pretty square rooms, that seemed to be
chapels with altars, and some adorned with very ordinary
ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are placed
on the sides one above the other in degrees like shelves,
whereof some are shut up with a coarse flat stone, having
engraven on them Pro Christo, or a cross and palms, which
are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all hkeli-
hood, were the meetings of the primitive Christians during
the persecutions, as Pliny the younger describes them.
As I was prying about, I found a glass phial, filled (as was
conjectured) with dried blood, and two lachrymatories.
Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there appeared
nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed by the art of the
chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus,
after wandering two or three miles in this subterranean
meander, we returned almost blind when we came into the
day-light, and even choked by the smoke of the torches.
It is said that a French bishop and his retinue adventuring
too far in these dens, their fights going out, were never
heard of more.
We were entertained at night with an English play at
the Jesuits', where we before had dined ; and the next day
at Prince Galicano's, who himself composed the music to
a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal Pam-
philio, the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the
cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility
and strangers. There had been in the morning a joust
and tournament of several young gentlemen on a formal
defy, to which we had been invited ; the prizes being dis-
tributed by the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The
lancers and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers,
with a great deal of clatter, but without any bloodshed,
giving much diversion to the spectators, and was new to us
travellers.
The next day, Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning
in attending the entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici,
the ambassador from the Grand Duke of Florence, by the
* Intituled, Roma Sotter^nea, folio, Rom. 1632.
VOL. I. N
178 DIARY OF [ROME,
Via Flaminia. After dinner^ we went again to the Villa
Borghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is
rather a park, or Paradise, contrived and planted with
walks and shades of myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and
groves, with abundance of fountains, statues, and bass-
relievos, and several pretty murmuring rivulets. Here
they had hung large nets to catch woodcocks. There was
also a vivary, where, amongst other exotic fowls, was an
ostrich ; besides a most capacious aviary ; and, in another
inclosed part, a herd of deer. Before the Palace (which
might become the court of a great prince) stands a noble
fountain, of white marble, enriched with statues. The
outer walls of the house are encrusted with excellent
antique bass-relievos, of the same marble, incornished with
festoons and niches set with statues from the foundation
to the roof. A stately portico joins the Palace, full of
statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities
of sculpture. In the first hall were the Twelve Caesars, of
antique marble, and the whole apartments furnished with
pictures of the most celebrated masters, and two rare tables
of porphyry, of great value. But of this already ; * for I
often visited this dehcious place.
This night were glorious fire-works at the Palace of
Cardinal Medici before the gate, and lights of several
colours all about the windows through the city, which
they contrive by setting the candles in little paper lanterns
dyed with various colours, placing hundreds of them from
story to story ; which renders a gallant show.
May 4th. Having seen the entry of the ambassador of
Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of our
Cardinal Protector, Fran. Barberini, I was admitted into
the consistory, heard the ambassador make his oration in
Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or throne,
and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was
presented to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper,
two Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice, and then
being sufiiciently blessed with his thumb and two fingers
for that day, I returned home to dinner.
We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi,
which are absolutely the best collection in Rome.
Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human
♦Seep. 117.
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 179
figure lies, found on the snowy Alps ; I measured the
hydra, and found it not a foot long ; the three necks and
fifteen heads seem to be but patched up with several pieces
of serpents' skins.
5th. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of
the city to Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal
Aldobrandini, built for a country-house ; but surpassing,
in my opinion, the most delicious places I ever beheld for
its situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves, ascents, and
prospects. Just behind the Palace (which is of excellent
architecture) in the centre of the enclosure, rises a high
hill, or mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so
formed by nature, as if it had been cut out by art, from
the summit whereof falls a cascade, seeming rather a great
river than a stream precipitating into a large theatre of
^ater, representing an exact and perfect rainbow, when
the sun shines out. Under this, is made an artificial grot,
wherein are curious rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts
of singing birds, moving and chirping by force of the
water, with several other pageants and surprising inven-
tions. In the centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper
ball that continually dances about three feet above the
pavement, by virtue of a wind conveyed secretly to a hole
beneath it ; with many other devices to wet the unwary
spectators, so that one can hardly step without wetting to
the skin. In one of these theatres of water, is an Atlas
spouting up the stream to a very great height; and
another monster makes a terrible roaring with a horn ;
but, above all, the representation of a storm is most
natural, with such fury of rain, wind and thunder, as one
would imagine oneself in some extreme tempest. The
garden has excellent walks and shady groves, abundance
of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, &c., and the goodly pros-
pect of Rome, above aU. description, so as I do not wonder
that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with
such encomiums. The Palace is indeed built more like a
cabinet than anything composed of stone and mortar ; it
has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent marbles
and rare pictures, especially those of Gioseppino d'Arpino;
the moveables are princely and rich. This was the last
piece of architecture finished by Giacomo della Porta, who
n2
180 DIARY OP [titoli,
built it for Pietro Cardinal Aldobrandini, in the time of
Clement VIII.*
We went hence to another house and garden not far
distant, on the side of a hill called Mondragone, finished
by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample and kingly edifice.
It has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre for
pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, oHve-
grounds, groves, and solitudes. The air is so fresh and
sweet, as few parts of Italy exceed it ; nor is it inferior to
any palace in the city itself for statues, pictures, and fur-
niture ; but, it growing late, we could not take such par-
ticular notice of these things as they deserved.
6th. We rested ourselves; and, next day, in a coach,
took our last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places,
going to Tivoli, or the old Tiburtum. At about six miles
from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a bridge built by Mam-
mea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient
sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi; and
near it pass the stinking sulphureous river over the Ponte
Lucano, where we found a heap, or turret, full of inscrip-
tions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at Tivoli,
we went first to see the Palace d'Este, erected on a plain,
but where was formerly an hill. The Palace is very ample
and stately. In the garden, on the right hand, are sixteen
vast conchas of marble, jetting out waters ; in the midst
of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth four
girandolas, called from the resemblance [to a particular
exhibition in fire-works so named] the Fontana di Speccho
[looking-glass] . Near this is a place for tilting. Before
the ascent of the palace is the famous fountain of Leda,
and not far from that, four sweet and delicious gardens.
Descending thence are two pyramids of water, and in a
grove of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, Esculapius,
Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora; then the pranc-
ing Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses
of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, all of exquisite marble,
copper, and other suitable adornments. The Cupids
pouring out water are especially most rare, and the urns
on which are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richly
paved with pietra-commessa, shells, coral, &c.
* Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in Januaiy, 1592, by
the name of Oement YIII., and died in March, 1605.
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 181
Towards Roma Triumphans^ leads a long and spacious
walk, full of fountains, under which is historized the whole
Ovidian Metamorphosis, in rarely sculptured mezzo relievo.
At the end of this, next the wall, is the city of Rome as it
was in its beauty, of small models, representing that city,
with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermae, temples, arches,
aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a httle
stream running through it for the Tiber, gushing out of
an urn next the statue of the river. In another garden,
is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and singing till an
owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes.
Near this is the fountain of Dragons, casting out large
streams of water with great noise. In another grotto,
called Grotto di Natura, is an hydraulic organ ; and, below
this, are divers stews and fish-ponds, in one of which is
the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a sea-horse, in
another a Triton ; and, lastly, a garden of simples. There
are besides in the palace many rare statues and pictm'es,
bedsteads richly inlaid, and sundry other precious move-
ables : the whole is said to have cost the best part of a
million.
Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial
miracles, and dined, we went to see the so famous natural
precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down
from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what
with the mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of
the water against the rocks, and what with the sun shining
on it and forming a natural Iris, and the prodigious depth
of the gulf below, it is enough to astonish one that looks
on it. Upon the summit of this rock stand the ruins and
some pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tybur-
tina, or Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of
its pristine beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder
drying in the sun, and a little beneath, mills belonging to
the Pope.
And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were
showed, at some distance, the city Praeneste, and the
Hadrian villa, now only a heap of ruins ; and so came
late to oiu* lodging.
We now determined to desist from visiting any more
curiosities, except what should happen to come in our
way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or myself should
182 DIARY OP [ROME,
go to take the air ; only I may not omit tliat one after-
noon, diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mounte-
bank there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring
fi'om his finger, which seemed set with a dull, dark stone,
a httle swelling out, like what we call (though untruly) a
toadstone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth and
then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and
large as a small wax candle ; then, blowing it out, repeated
this several times. I have much regretted that I did not
purchase the receipt of him for making that composition
at what price soever ; for though there is a process in Jo.
Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several
trials they none of them have succeeded.
Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these :
as to coins and medals, ten asses make the Roman dena-
rius, five the quinarius, ten denarii an aureus; which
accompt runs almost exactly with what is now in use of
quatrini, baiocs, julios, and scudi, each exceeding the other
in the proportion of ten. The sestertius was a small silver
coin marked h. s. or rather ll% valued two pounds and a
half of silver, viz. 250 denarii, about twenty-five golden
ducati. The stamp of the Roman denarius varied, having
sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma armed, or
with a chariot and two horses, which were called bigi ; if
with four, quadrigi ; if with a Victoria, so named. The
mark of the denarius was distinguished >\< thus, or X;
the quinarius of half value, had, on one side, the head of
Rome and V; the reverse, Castor and Pollux on horseback,
inscribed Roma, &c.
I observed that in the Greek church they made the
sign of the cross from the right hand to the left ; contrary
to the Latins and the schismatic Greeks ; gave the bene-
diction with the first, second, and little finger stretched
out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a distance
of the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two.
For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and
Algardi were in the greatest esteem; Flamingo, as a
statuary, who made the Andrea in St. Peter's, and is said
to have died mad because it was placed in an ill Ught.
Amongst the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has
such an address of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient
masters so well as to make his copies pass for originals ;
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 183
Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a Frenchman, and
innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armour, plate, dead
life, tapestry, &c. The cliief masters of music, after Marc
Antonio, the best treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch;
the next Cardinal Bichi's eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and
Nicholai, base. The Jews in Rome wore red hats, till the
Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted one
of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by
his coach ; on which an order was made, that they should
use only the yellow colour. There was now at E-ome one
Mrs. Ward, an English devotee, who much soHcited for an
order of Jesuitesses.
At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his
cloak and hat for murder. They struck the malefactor
with a club that first stunned him, and then cut his throat.
At Naples, they use a frame, like ours at Halifax (a
guillotine).
It is reported that Rome has been once no less than
fifty miles in compass, now not thirteen, containing in it
3000 churches and chapels, monasteries, &c. It is divided
into fourteen regions, or wards ; has seven mountains, and
as many campi, or valleys; in these are fair parks, or
gardens, called villas, being only places of recess and
pleasure, at some distance from the streets, yet within the
walls.
The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering
Italy till I went from Rome, amounted but to 616 ducati
di banco, though I purchased many books, pictures, and
curiosities.
18th. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being
disappointed of monies long expected, I was forced to
return by the same way I came, desiring, if possible, to be
at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I diverted to
take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit
by a merchant there, as to take order for transporting
such collections as I had made at Rome. When on my
way, turning about to behold this once and yet glorious
city, from an eminence, I did not, without some regret,
give it my last farewell.
Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had
sojourned now about seven months, autumn, winter, and
spring, I took coach, in company with two courteous Italian
184 DIARY OF . [sienna,
gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a house, or
rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called
Caprarola,* situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a
little town, or rather a natural and stupendous rock ; wit-
ness those vast caves serving now for cellarage, where we
were entertained with most generous wine of several sorts,
being just under the foundation. The Palace was built by
the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of Cardinal Alex.
Farnese, in form of an octagon, the court in the middle
being exactly round, so as rather to resemble a fort, or
castle ; yet the chambers within are all of them square,
which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of these
rooms is so artificially contrived, that from the two opposite
angles may be heard the least whisper; they say any
perfect square does it. Most of the paintings are by
Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an arti-
ficial fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and
great number of lodging chambers are remarkable ; but
most of all the pictures and witty inventions of Hannibal
Caracci; the Dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are
the gardens full of statues and noble fountains, especially
that of the Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and
lay that night at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from Rome.
19th. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Lau-
renzo. Next day, at Radicofani, and slept at Tumera.
21st. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass
admiring the great church f built entirely both within and
without with white and black marble in polished squares,
by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a shower has
fallen. The floor within is of various coloured marbles,
representing the story of both Testaments, admirably
wrought. Here lies Pius the Second. The biblioteca is
painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life of ^neas
Sylvius is in fresco ; in the middle are the Three Graces,
in antique marble, very curious, and the front of this
building, though Gothic, is yet very fine. Amongst other
things, they show St. Catharine's disciplining cell, the
door whereof is half cut out into chips by the pUgrims and
devotees, being of deal wood.
• Caprarola. There is a large descriptive account published of this Palace,
with magnificent plates of the buildings, pictures, and statues.
+ See p. 97.
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 185
Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the
Duomo in which the Emperor Henry VII. lies buried,
poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The bending tower
was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and
is a stupendous piece of art.* In the gallery of curiosities
is a fair mummy ; the tail of a sea-horse : coral growing
on a man's skuU ; a chariot automaton ; two pieces of rock
crystal, in one of which is a drop of water, in the other
three or four small worms ; two embalmed children ; divers
petrifactions, &c. The garden of simples is well furnished,
and has in it the deadly yew, or taoms, of the ancients ;
which Dr. Belluccio, the superintendant, affirms that his
workmen cannot endure to clip for above the space of half
an hour at a time, from the pain of the head which sur-
prises them.
We went hence for Leghorn, by coach, where I took
up ninety crowns for the rest of my journey, with letters
of credit for Venice, after I had sufficiently complained of
my defeat of correspondence at Rome.
The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty ter-
ritory and state of itself. — The city is neat and well-
fortified, with noble and pleasant walks of trees on the
works, where the gentry and ladies use to take the air. It
is situate on an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the
country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magni-
ficent. The church of St. Michael is a noble piece, as is
also St. Fredian, more remarkable to us for the corpse of
St. Richard, an English king,t who died here in his pilgrim-
age towards Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb :
Hie rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus :
Rex fuit Anglonim ; regnum tenet iste Polorum.
Regnuiu demisit ; pro Christo cuncta reliquit.
Ergo, Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum.
Hie genitor Sanctae Wulburgse Virginis almae
Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi,
SuflFragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum.
Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure
all of marble both without and within, and so adorned as
may vie with many of the fairest even in Rome ; witness
the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above all venerable for
• See pp. 89, 92, for other hanging towers at Pisa and Florence.
+ Who this Richard King of England was, it is impossible to say ; the tomb
still exists, and has long been a crux to antiquaries and travellers. — Editob.
X86 DIARY OP [pisToiA,
that sacred volto whicli (as tradition goes) was miracu-
lously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus,
whilst the artist, finishing the rest of the body, was medi-
tating what face to set on it. The inhabitants are
exceedingly civil to strangers, above all places in Italy,
and they speak the purest Italian. It is also cheap living,
which causes travellers to set up their rest here more than
in Florence, though a more celebrated city; besides, the
ladies here are very conversable, and the religious women
not at all reserved ; of these we bought gloves and em-
broidered stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen in
these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy
days' journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany' s,
but having Spain for a protector (though the least bigoted
of all Roman Catholics), and being one of the fortified
cities in Italy, it remains in peace. The whole country
abounds in excellent olives, &c.
Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoia, where,
besides one church, there was little observable : only in
the highway we crossed a rivulet of salt water, though
many miles from the sea. The country is extremely
pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line
for the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted
with trees at equal distances, watered with clear and
plentiful streams.
Rising early the next morning, we alighted at Poggio
Imperiale, being a Palace of the Great Duke, not far from
the city, having omitted it in my passage to Rome. The
ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it were of
tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At
the entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the
Tyber and Arno, of marble ; those also of Virgil, Ovid,
Petrarch, and Dante. The building is sumptuous, and
curiously furnished within with cabinets of pietra-com-
messa in tables, pavements, &c., which is a magnificence,
or work, particularly affected at Florence. The pictures
are, Adam and Eve by Albert Durer, very excellent ; as is
that piece of carving in wood by the same hand standing
in a cupboard. Here is painted the whole Austrian line ;
the Duke's mother, sister to the Emperor, the foundress
of this palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had
seen more magnificently adorned, or furnished.
16U.} JOHN EVELYN. 187
We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same,
and other curiosities which we had neglected on our first
being at Florence. We went, therefore, to see the famous
piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the Annunciata ; the story is,
that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a sack of
corn of the rehgious of that convent, and re-payment being
demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which repre-
sents Joseph sitting on a sack of corn and reading to the
Blessed Virgin ; a piece infinitely valued. There fell down
in the cloister an old man's face painted on the wall in
fresco, greatly esteemed, and brake into crumbs; the
Duke sent his best painters to make another instead of it,
but none of them would presume to touch a pencil where
Andrea had wrought, like another Apelles; but one of
them was so industrious and patient, that, picking up the
fragments, he laid and fastened them so artificially toge-
ther, that the injury it had received was hardly discern-
ible. Andrea del Sarto hes buried in the same place.
Here is also that picture of Bartolomeo, who having
spent his utmost skill in the face of the angel Gabriel, and
being troubled that he could not exceed it in the Virgin,
he began the body and to finish the clothes, and so left it,
minding in the morning to work on the face ; but, when
he came, no sooner had he drawn away the cloth that was
hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than an admir-
able and ravishing face was found ready painted ; at which
miracle all the city came in to worship ; it is now kept in
the chapel of the Salutation, a place so enriched by the
devotees, that none in Italy, save Loretto, is said to exceed
it. This picture is always covered with three shutters, one
of which is of massy silver ; methinks it is very brown, the
forehead and cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped.
They report that those who have the honour of seeing it
never lose their sight — happy then we ! Belonging to
this church is a world of plate, some whole statues of it,
and lamps innumerable, besides the costly vows hung up,
some of gold, and a cabinet of precious stones.
Visiting the Duke's repository again, we told at least
forty ranks of porphyry and other statues, and twenty-
eight whole figures, many rare paintings and relievos, two
square columns with trophies. In one of the galleries,
twenty-four figures, and fifty antique heads ; a Bacchus of
188 DIARY OF [floremci,
M. AngelOj and one of Bandinelli ; a head of Bernini, and
a most lovely Cupid, of Parian marble ; at the further end,
two admirable women sitting, and a man fighting with a
centaur ; three figures in little of Andrea : a huge candle-
stick of amber ; a table of Titian's painting, and another
representing God the Father sitting in the air on the
Four Evangehsts ; animals ; divers smaller pieces of Ra-
phael ; a piece of pure virgin gold, as big as an egg. In
the third chamber of rarities is the square cabinet, valued
at 80,000 crowns, showing, on every front, a variety of
curious work ; one of birds and flowers, of pietra-comessa ;
one, a descent from the cross, of M. Angelo ; on the third,
our Blessed Saviour and the Apostles, of amber ; and, on
the fourth, a crucifix of the same. Betwixt the pictures,
two naked Venuses, by Titian ; Adam and Eve, by Durer ;
and several pieces of Pordenone, and del Frate. There is
aj globe of six feet diameter. In the Armoury, were an
entire elk, a crocodile, and, amongst the harness, several
targets and antique horse-arms, as that of Charles V.;
two set with turquoises, and other precious stones; a
horse's tail, of a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old
Palace, which has a very great hall for feasts and come-
dies, the roof rarely painted, and the side-walls with six
very large pictures representing battles, the work of Gio.
Vassari. Here is a magazine full of plate ; a harness of
emeralds ; the furnitures of an altar four feet high, and six
in length, of massy gold; in the middle, is placed the
statue of Cosmo II.; the bass-relievo is of precious stones,
his breeches covered with diamonds ; the mouldings of
this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, &c. are gar-
nished with jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St.
Charles, with this inscription, in rubies :
Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux Etrurise ex voto.
There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet
high, and an infinity of such Hke rarities. Looking at the
Justice, in copper, set up on a column by Cosmo, in 1555,
after the victory over Sienna, we were told that the Duke,
asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he answered,
that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for
poor men to come at it.
Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collec-
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 189
tion of paintings, especially a St. Catharine of P. Veronese;
a Venus of marble, veiled from the middle to the feet,
esteemed to be of that Greek workman who made the
Venus at the Medicis' Palace in Rome, altogether as good,
and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since
found about Bologna.
Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities,
statues, and pictures of the best masters, and one bust of
marble as much esteemed as the most antique in Italy, and
many curious manuscripts ; his best paintings are, a Virgin
of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John by Raphael,
and an Ecce Homo, by Titian.
The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about
with impresses and devices painted, all of them relating
to corn sifted from the bran ; the seats are made like bread-
baskets and other rustic instruments used about wheat, and
the cushions of satin, like sacks.
We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly
noticing that piece of the Resurrection, which consists of
a prodigious number of naked figures, the work of Pon-
tormo. On the left hand, is the Martyrdom of St. Lau-
rence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is
the tomb of Pietro di Medici, and his brother John, of
copper, excellently designed, standing on two lions' feet,
which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo. Over against
this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has
a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles.
Paulus Jovius has the honour to be buried in the cloister.
Behind the choir is the superb chapel of Ferdinand I.,
consisting of eight faces, four plain, four a little hollowed;
in the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of paragon,
for the statue of the Prince now living, all of copper gilt ;
above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for the
Duke, in letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls, pave-
ment, and roof, are full of precious stones united with the
mouldings, which are also of gilded copper, and so are the
bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle, with
the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, serpentine,
agates, onyxes, &c. On the other side, are six very large
columns of rock crystal, eight figures of precious stones of
several colours, inlaid in natural figures, not inferior to the
best paintings, amongst which are many pearls, diamonds.
290 DIARY OF [flobenck,
amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparkling beyond de-
scription. The windows without side are of white marble.
The Hbrary is the architecture of Raphael ; before the port
is a square vestibule of excellent art, of all the orders,
without confusion ; the ascent to it from the library is
excellent. We numbered eighty-eight shelves, all MSS.
and bound in red, chained; in all about 3500 volumes,
as they told us.
The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately
preserved and kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance,
whereof one is for a ball of 300 pounds weight, and another
for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds.
When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were,
for pietra-commessa (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of va-
rious coloured marble, and other more precious stones)
Dominico Benetti, and Mazzotti: the best statuary, Vin-
centio Brochi. This statuary makes those small figures in
plaster and pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, till
one handles them, they cannot be distinguished, he has so
rare an art of bronzing them ; I bought four of him : the
best painter, Pietro Beretino di Cortona.
This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or
prostitute, allowed to practise that infamous trade in his
dominions, and so has his Holiness the Pope, but not so
much in value.
Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Gio-
vanni and his fellow, we took horses for Bologna; and, by
the way, alighted at a villa of the Grand Duke^s, called
Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavihons, with a
fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a
large meadow, ascending like an amphitheatre, having at
the bottom a huge rock, with water running in a small
channel, like a cascade ; on the other side, are the gardens.
The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer
retirement. The inside of the Palace may compare with
any in Italy for furniture of tapestry, beds, &c., and the
gardens are dehcious, and full of fountains. In the grove
sits Pan feeding his flock, the water making a melodious
sound through his pipe ; and a Hercules, whose club yields
a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a
naked woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another
grotto, is Vulcan and his family, the walls richly composed
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 191
of corals, shells, copper, and marble figures, with the hunt-
ing of several beasts, moving by the force of water. Here,
having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down
a large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams
of water gush out of pipes concealed underneath, that
interchangeably fall into each other's channels, making a
lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on horseback may
ride under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This
canopy, or arch of water, I thought one of the most sur-
prising magnificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing
in the heat of the summer. At the end of this very long
walk, stands a woman in white marble, in posture of a
laundress wringing water out of a piece of linen, very
naturally formed, into a vast laver, the work and invention
of M. Angelo Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount
Parnassus, where the Muses played to us on hydrauhc
organs. Near this is a great aviary. All these waters
came from the rock in the garden, on which is the statue
of a giant representing the Apennines, at the foot of which
stands this villa. Last of all, we came to the labyrinth, in
which a huge colosse of Jupiter throws out a stream over
the garden. This is fifty feet in height, having in his body
a square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows
and door.
We took horse and supped that night at 1\ Ponte,
passing a dreadful ridge of the Apennines, in many places
capped with snow, which covers them the whole summer.
We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The
next day, we passed through Scarperia, mounting the
hills again, where the passage is so straight and precipitous
towards the right hand, that we climbed them with much
care and danger ; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a fort
built amongst the rocks, and defending the confines of the
Great Duke's territories.
The next day, we passed by the Pietramala, a burning
mountain. At the summit of this prodigious mass of
hills, we had an unpleasant way to Pianura, where we slept
that night and were entertained with excellent wine. Hence
to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins
about six miles from Bologna.
Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous Univer-
sity, situate in one of the richest spots of Europe for all
292 DIARY OF [bologna,
sorts of provisions. It is built like a ship, whereof the
Torre d^Asinelli may go for the mainmast. The city is of
no great strength, having a trifling vrall about it, in circuit
near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d'Asinelli,
ascended by 447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly
high, is very narrow, and the more conspicuous from
another tower called Garisendi, so artificially built of brick,
(which increases the wonder) that it seems ready to fall :
it is not now so high as the other ; but they say the upper
part was formerly taken down for fear it should really fall,
and do mischief.
Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called
St. Petronius, showing the intent of the founder, had he
gone on. From this, our guide led us to the schools,
which indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Domi-
nic's, where that saint's body lies richly enshrined. The
stalls, or seats, of this goodly church have the history of
the Bible inlaid with several woods, very curiously done,
the Avork of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a friar of
that order. Amongst other relics, they show the two
books of Esdras, written with his own hand. Here lie
buried Jac. Andreas, and divers other learned persons. To
the church joins the convent, in the quadrangle whereof
are old cypresses, said to have been planted by their saint.
Then, we went to the Palace of the Legate, a fair brick
building, as are most of the houses and buildings, full of
excellent carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone
seems to be better finished, or more ornamental ; witness
those excellent columns to be seen in many of their
churches, convents, and public buildings; for the whole
town is so cloistered, that one may pass from house to
house through the streets without being exposed either to
rain, or sun.
Before the stately hall of this Palace stands the statue
of Paul IV. and divers others; also the monument of
the coronation of Charles V. The piazza before it is the
most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice only excepted.
In the centre of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figm-e
in copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich
vest of cloth of tissue, and several other ornaments,
according to the fashion of his country, which much pleased
me ; he was a young handsome person, of the most stately
mien.
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 193
I would fain have seen the library of St. Saviour,
famous for the number of rare manuscripts ; but could not,
so we went to St. Francis, a glorious pile, and exceedingly
adorned within.
After dinner, I enquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano,
to whom I brought recommendations from Rome; this
learned person invented, or found out, the composition of
the lapis illuminahilis, or phosphorus. He showed me their
property (for he had several), being to retain the light of
the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition,
by a particular way of calcination. Some of these pre-
sented a blue colour, like the flame of brimstone, others
like coals of a kitchen-fire. The rest of the afternoon was
taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a steep hill on
the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and
groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most
delicious retirements I ever saw ; art and nature contend-
ing which shall exceed ; so as till now I never envied the life
of a friar. The Avhole town and country to a vast extent
are under command of their eyes, almost as far as Venice
itself. In this convent there are many excellent paint-
ings of Guido Reni ; above all, the little cloister of eight
faces, painted by Caracci in fresco. The carvings in wood,
in the sacristy, are admirable, as is the inlaid work about
the chapel, which even emulates the best paintings ; the
work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of the
Saviour are of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excel-
lent things of Raphael which we could not see.
In the Church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia,
by Raphael. As to other paintings, there is in the Church
of St. Gregory an excellent picture of a Bishop giving the
habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier, with several
other figures in the piece^ the work of Guerchino. Indeed,
this city is full of rare pieces, especially of Guido,
Domenico, and a virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living,
who has painted many excellent pieces, and imitates Guido
so well, that many skilful artists have been deceived.
At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by
Reni, after the manner of Caravaggio, but better; and
here they showed us that famous piece of Christ calling
St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Maguiani
VOL. I. o
194
DIARY OF
[bologna^
has the whole frieze of his hall painted in fresco by the
same hand.
Many of the religious men nourish those lap-dogs which
the ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They
are a pigmy sort of spaniels, whose noses they break when
puppies ; which, in my opinion, deforms them.
At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the
dormitory of St. Michael, I found a paper pasted near the
window, containing the dimensions of most of the famous
churches in Italy compared with their towers here, and the
length of this gallerj'^, a copy whereof I took.
St. Pietro di Roma, longo
Cupola del mure, alta
Torre d'Asinello, alto
Dormitorio de St. Mich, a
Bologn. longo. . .
Braccia.*
Piedi diBolognia.
Canna di
Roma.
284
210
208^
254
473
350
348
423
84
60
69pr.""6
72i
From hence, being brought to a subterranean territory
of cellars, the courteous friars made us taste a Tariety of
excellent wines ; and so we departed to our inn.
This city is famous also for sausages ; and here is sold
great quantities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo,
Caviare, &c. which makes some of their shops perfume the
streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished ourselves,
with wash-balls, the best being made here, and being a
considerable commodity. This place has also been cele-
brated for lutes made by the old masters, MoUen, Hans
Frey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which were of extraordinary
price; the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle
used for draught in this country (which is very rich and
fertile, especially in pasturage) are covered with housings
of linen fringed at the bottom, that dangle about them,
preserving them from flies, which in summer are very
troublesome.
From this pleasant city, we proceeded towards Ferrara,
carrying with us a buUetino, or bill of health (customary
in all these parts of Italy, especially in the State of Venice),
and so put ourselves into a boat that was towed with
* A measure of half an ell.
J64S.] JOHN EVELYN. 195
horses, often interrupted by the sluices, (inventions there
to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the
artificial canals) at every of which we stayed till passage
was made. We went by the Castle Bentivoglio, and,
about night, arrived at an ugly inn called Mai Albergo,
agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supped, we
embarked and passed that night through the Fens, where
we were so pestered with those flying glow-worms, called
Liiccioli, that one who had never heard of them, would
think the country full of sparks of fire ; beating some of
them down, and applying them to a book, I could read in
the dark by the Kght they aiforded.
Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got
to Ferrara, where, before we could gain entrance, our
guns and arms were taken from us of custom, the lock
being taken ofi" before, as we were advised. The city is in
a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The
houses and streets have nothing of beauty, except the
palace and church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies
buried ; and there are some good statues, the palazzo del
Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-
place is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of
Nicholao Olao, once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in
copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, and, though the
streets be large, they remain ill paved; yet it is a
University, and now belongs to the Pope. Though there
are not many fine houses in the city, the inn where we
lodged was a very noble palace, having an Angel for its
sign.
We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and.
went some of our way on the canal, and then embarked on
the Po, or Padus, by the poets called Eridanus, where they
feign Phseton to have fallen after his rash attempt, and
where lo was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in
our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who was
exceeding civil to me in this passage, and afterwards did me
many kindnesses at Venice. We supped this night at a place
called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient city, Adria,
which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three miles,
having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a stout
vessel, and through an artificial canal, very straight, we
entered the Adige, which carried us by break of day into
o2
J 95 DIARY OF [VENICE,
the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously by Chioza (a town
upon an island in this sea,) and Palestina, we came over
against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage where
our English merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) about
seven at night, after we had stayed at least two hours for
permission to land, our bill of health being delivered,
according to custom. So soon as we came on shore, we
were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus
were visited, and then we got to our lodging, which was at
honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's at the Black Eagle,
near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the town.
This journey from Rome to Venice cost me seven pistoles,
and thirteen julios.
June. The next morning, finding myself extremely
weary and beaten with my journey, I went to one of their
bagnios, where you are treated after the eastern manner,
washing with hot and cold water, with oils, and being
rubbed with a kind of strigil of sea?s-skin, put on the
operator's hand hke a glove. This bath did so open my
pores, that it cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had
in my life, for want of necessary caution in keeping myself
warm for some time after ; for, coming out, I immediately
began to visit the famous places of the city ; and travellers
who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to
see sights, and this city well deserved our admiration, being
the most wonderfully placed of any in the world, built on
so many hundred islands, in the very sea, and at good dis-
tance from the continent. It has no fresh water, except
what is reserved in cisterns from rain, and such as is
daily brought from terra firma in boats, yet there was no
want of it, and all sorts of excellent provisions were very
cheap.
It is said that when the Huns over-ran Italy some mean
fishermen and others left the main land, and fled for shelter
to these despicable and muddy islands, which, in process of
time, by industry, are grown to the greatness of one of the
most considerable States, considered as a Republic, and
having now subsisted longer than any of the four ancient
Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and glory,
by the conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece,
Candia, Rhodes, and Sclavonia, and at present challenging
the empire of all the Adriatic Sea, which they yearly
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. I97
espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great pomp and
ceremony, on Ascension-day ; the desire of seeing this, was
one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome.
The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state (which
are very particular, after the eastern fashion), together
with the Senate in their gowns, embarked in their glori-
ously painted, carved, and gilded Bucentora, environed and
followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas, and boats, filled
with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets,
music, and cannons. Having rowed about a league into the
Gulf, the Duke, at the prow, casts a gold ring and cup into
the sea, at which a loud acclamation is echoed from the
great guns of the Arsenal, and at the Liddo. We then
returned.
Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-
coach (for land ones there are many old men in this city
who never saw one, or rarely a horse), we rowed up and
down the channels, which answer to our streets. These ves-
sels are built very long and narrow, having necks and tails of
steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish's tail, and
kept so exceedingly polished as to give a great lustre ;
some are adorned with carving, others hned with velvet,
(commonly black), with curtains and tassels, and the seats
like couches, to he stretched on, while he who rows, stands
upright on the very edge of the boat, and, with one oar
bending forward as if he would fall into the sea, rows and
turns with incredible dexterity ; thus passing from channel
to channel, landing his fare, or patron, at what house he
pleases. The beaks of these vessels are not unlike the
ancient Koman rostrums.
The first public building I went to see, was the Eialto, a
bridge of one arch over the grand canal, so large as to
admit a galley to row under it, built of good marble, and
having on it, besides many pretty shops, three ample and
stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the
two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone ; a piece
of architecture much to be admired. It was evening, and
the canal where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our
Hyde-park, was full of ladies and gentlemen. There are
many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude of
gondolas ready to sink one another ; and indeed they
aflFect to lean them on one side, that one who is not
]98 DIARY OF [VENICE,
accustomed to it, would be afraid of over-setting. Here
they were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other
music, and serenading their mistresses ; in another place,
racing, and other pastimes on the water, it being now
exceeding hot.
Next day, I went to their Exchange, a place like ours,
frequented by merchants, but nothing so magnificent:
from thence, my guide led me to the Fondigo di Todeschi,
which is their magazine, and here many of the merchants,
especially Germans, have their lodging and diet as in a
college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by
Giorgione da Castelfranco, and Titian himself.
Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one of the most
delicious streets in the world for the sweetness of it, and
is all the way on both sides tapestred as it were with cloth
of gold, rich damasks and other silks, which the shops
expose and hang before their houses from the first floor,
and with that variety that for near half the year spent
chiefly in this city, I hardly remem1)er to have seen the
same piece twice exposed ; to this add the perfumes, apo-
thecaries' shops, and the innumerable cages of nightingales
which they keep, that entertain you mth their melody
from shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes you would
imagine yourself in the country, when indeed you are in
the middle of the sea. It is almost as silent as the middle
of a field, there being neither rattling of coaches nor
trampling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and
exceedingly clean, brought us through an. arch into the
famous piazza of St. Mark.
Over this porch, stands that admirable Clock, celebrated
next to that of Strasburg for its many movements ; amongst
which, about twelve and six, which are their hours of Ave
Maria, when all the town are on their knees, come forth
the three Kings led by a star, and passing by the image of
Christ in his Mother's arms, do their reverence, and enter
into the clock by another door. At the top of this turret,
another automaton strikes the quarters. An honest mer-
chant told me that one day, walking in the piazza, he saw
the fellow who kept the clock struck with this hammer so
forcibly, as he was stooping his head near the bell to
mend something amiss at the instant of striking, that being
stunned he reeled over the battlements, and broke his
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 199
neck. The buildings in this piazza are all arched, on
pillars, paved within with black and white polished marble,
even to the shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in
Europe, being not only marble, but the architecture is of
the famous Sansovini, who lies buried in St. Jacomo, at the
end of the piazza. The battlements of this noble range of
building are railed with stone, and thick-set with excellent
statues, which add a great ornament. One of the sides is
yet much more Roman-like than the other which regards
the sea, and where the church is placed. The other range
is plainly Gothic : and so we entered into St. Mark's
Church, before which stand two brass pedestals exquisitely
cast and figured, which bear as many tall masts painted
red, on which upon great festivals they hang flags and
streamers. The church is also Gothic; yet for the pre-
ciousness of the materials, being of several rich marbles,
abundance of porphyry, serpentine, &c., far exceeding any
in Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired
the splendid history of our blessed Saviour composed all of
mosaic over the facciata, below which and over the chief
gate are cast four horses in copper as big as the life, the
same that formerly were transported from Rome by Con-
stantino to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians
hither.* They are supported by eight porphyry columns,
of very great size and value. Being come into the Church,
you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but what is precious.
The floor is all inlaid with agates, lazulis, chalcedons, jas-
pers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, admirable also for
the work ; the walls sumptuously incrusted, and presenting
to the imagination the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers,
and a thousand varieties. The roof is of most excellent
mosaic ; but what most persons admire is the new work of
the emblematic tree at the other passage out of the church.
In the midst of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle
very large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns,
eight of which are of precious marbles : under these
cupolas is the high altar, on which is a rehquary of several
sorts of jewels, engraven with figures, after the Greek
manner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The
altar is covered with a canopy of ophite, on which is
* They were taken away by Buonaparte to Paris; but, in 1815, were sent
back to Venice. Edit.
200 DIARY OF [VENICE,
sculptured the story of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which
are of Parian marble, that support it. Behind these, are
four other columns of transparent and true oriental ala-
baster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's
Temple, as they report. There are many chapels and
notable monuments of illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals,,
&c., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and others : there is likewise
a vast baptistery, of copper. Among other venerable relics
is a stone, on which they say our blessed Lord stood
preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is
an image of Christ, much adored, esteeming it very sacred,
for that a rude fellow striking it, they say, there gushed out
a torrent of blood. In one of the corners lies the body of
St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from the island
of Chios. A little farther, they show the picture of
St. Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have been made by
the Abbot Joachim (many years before any of them were
born). Going out of the Church, tbey showed us the
stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor
Frederick Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm,
" super basiliscum," &c. The doors of the Church are of
massy copper. There are near 500 pillars in this building,
most of them porphyry and serpentine, and brought chiefly
from Athens, and other parts of Greece, formerly in their
power. At the corner of the Church, are inserted into the
main wall four figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry,
which they say are the images of four brothers who
poisoned one another, by which means there escheated to
the Republic that vast treasury of relics now belonging to
the Church. At the other entrance that looks towards
the sea, stands in a small chapel that statue of our Lady,
made (as they affirm) of the same stone, or rock, out of
which Moses brought water to the murmuring Israelites at
Horeb, or Meriba.
After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much
too dark and dismal, and of heavy work ; the fabric, as is
much of Venice, both for buildings and other fashions and
circumstances, after the Greeks, their next neighbours.
The next day, by favour of the French Ambassador, I
had admittance with him to view the Reliquary, called
here Tesoro di San Marco, Avhich very few, even of tra-
vellers, are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full of
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. gQl
presses. There are twelve breast-plates, or pieces of pure
golden armour, studded with precious stones, and as many
crowns dedicated to St. Mark by so many noble Venetians,
■who had recovered their Avives taken at sea by the Sara-
cens ; many curious vases of agates ; the cap, or coronet,
of the Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it,
esteemed worth 200,000 crowns; two unicorns^ horns;
numerous vases and dishes of agate, set thick with pre-
cious stones and vast pearls ; divers heads of Saints,
enchased in gold ; a small ampulla, or glass, with our
Saviour's blood ; a great morsel of the real cross ; one of
the nails ; a thorn ; a fragment of the column to which
our Lord was bound, when scourged; the standard, or
ensign, of Constantino ; a piece of St. Luke's arm ; a rib
of St. Stephen ; a finger of Mary Magdalene ; numerous
other things, which I could not remember ; but a priest,
first vesting himself in his sacerdotals, with the stole
about his neck, showed us the Gospel of St. Mark (their
tutelar patron) written by his own hand, and whose body
they show buried in the church, brought hither from
Alexandria many years ago.
The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo
Veronese, especially the Magdalen.
A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of
Justice, the Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first
court near this church is almost wholly built of several
coloured sorts of marble, like chequer- work on the outside;
this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but
observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three
no two are alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where
merchants meet morning and evening, as also the grave
senators and gentlemen, to confer of state-affairs, in their
gowns and caps, like so many philosophers ; it is a very
noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood
two square columns of white marble, carved, which they
said had been erected to hang one of their Dukes on, who
designed to make himself Sovereign. Going through a
stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues
of great value, amongst which is the so celebrated Eve,
esteemed worth its weight in gold ; it is just opposite to
the stairs where are two Colossuses of Mars and Neptune,
by Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor built with
202 DIARY OP [VENICE,
several Tribunals and Courts of Justice ; and by a well-
contrived staircase were landed in the Senate-hall, which
appears to be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in
Europe, being seventy-six paces long, and thirty-two in
breadth. At the upper end, are the Tribunals of the Doge,
Council of Ten, and Assistants ; in the body of the haU,
are lower ranks of seats, capable of containing 1500 Sena-
tors ; for they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over
the Duke's throne are the -psiintm^s of the FinalJudgment,
by Tintoret, esteemed amongst the best pieces in Europe.
On the roof are the famous Acts of the llepublic, painted
by several excellent masters, especially Bassano ; next
them, are the effigies of the several Dukes, with their
Elogies. Then, we turned into a great Court painted with
the Battle of Lepanto, an excellent piece ; afterwards, into
the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the most
celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favour
of an Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private
Armoury of the Palace, and so to the same Court we first
entered, nobly built of pohshed white marble, part of
which is the Duke's Court, pro tempore; there are two
wells adorned with excellent work, in copper. This led us
to the sea-side, where stand those columns of ophite-stone
in the entire piece, of a great height, one bearing St.
Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus ; these pillars were
brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas Baraterius,
the architect ; between them public executions are per-
formed.
Having fed our eyes ^vith the noble prospect of the
Island of St. George, the galleys, gondolas, and other
vessels passing to and fro, we walked under the cloister
on the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most mag-
nificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went
into the Zecca, or Mint ; at the entrance, stand two pro-
digious giants, or Hercules, of white marble : we saw them
melt, beat, and coin silver, gold, and copper. We then
went up into the Procuratory, and a library of excellent
MSS. and books belonging to it and the pubUc. After this,
we climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might
have done on horseback, as it is said one of the Erench
Kings did, there being no stairs, or steps, but returns that
take up an entire square on the arches forty feet, broad
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 203
enough for a coacli. This steeple stands by itself, without
any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the
corner of the great piazza, 230 feet in height, the founda-
tion exceeding deep ; on the top, is an angel, that turns
with the wind; and from hence is a prospect down the
Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the
surprising sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom
of the sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands
tacked together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the
foot of this tower, is a public tribunal of excellent work, in
white marble polished, adorned with several brass statues
and figures of stone in mezzo-relievo, the performance of
some rare artist.
It was now Ascension-Week, and the great mart, or
fair, of the whole year was kept, every body at liberty and
jolly. The noblemen stalking with their ladies on chop-
pines ; these are high-heeled shoes, particularly affected
by these proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep
them at home, it being very difl&cult to walk with them ;
whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames,
replied, they were mezzo came, mezzo legno, half flesh,
half wood ; and he would have none of them. The truth
is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade;
their other habits also totally different from all nations.
They wear very long crisp hair, of several streaks and
colours, which they make so by a wash, dishevelling it on
the brims of a broad hat that has no crown, but a hole to
put out their heads by ; they dry them in the sun, as one
may see them at their windows. In their tire, they set
silk flowers and sparkling stones, their petticoats coming
from their very arm-pits, so that they are near three
quarters and a half apron ; their sleeves are made exceed-
ing wide, under which their shift- sleeves as wide, and
commonly tucked up to the shoulder, showing their naked
arms, through false sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet
or two, with knots of points richly tagged about their
shoulders and other places of their body, which they
usually cover with a kind of yellow ved, of lawn, very
transparent. Thus attired, they set their hands on the
heads of two matron-hke servants, or old women, to sup-
port them, who are mumbling their beads. It is ridicu-
lous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of their
g(|4 DIARY OP [vENicF,
gondolas, by reason of their choppines, and what dwarfs
they appear, when taken down from their wooden scaffolds;
of these, I saw near thirty together, stalking half as high
again as the rest of the world; for courtezans, or the
citizens, may not wear choppines, but cover their bodies
and faces with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or
lustree, out of which they now and then dart a glance of
their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid with
it ; nor may the common misses take this habit ; but go
abroad barefaced. To the corners of these virgin-veils-
hang broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice.
The married Avomen go in black veils. The nobility wear
the same colour, but of fine cloth hned with taffeta, in
summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the winter,
which all put on at a certain day girt with a girdle em-
bossed with silver ; the vest not much different from what
our Bachelors of Arts wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth,
made like a sack, cast over their left shoulder, and a round
cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is not so comely ;
they also wear their collar open, to show the diamond
button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seen pearl
for colour and bigness comparable to what the ladies wear,
most of the noble families being very rich in jewels, espe-
cially pearls, which are always left to the son, or brother,
who is destined to marry ; which the eldest seldom do.
The Doge^s vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, &c.
of damask, very stately. Nor was I less surprised with the
strange variety of the several nations seen every day in
the streets and piazzas ; Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians,
Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some with their targets and
bucklers, and all in their native fashions, negociating in
this famous Emporium, which is always crowded with
strangers.
This night, having mth my Lord Bruce taken our places
before, we went to the Opera, where comedies and other
plays are represented in recitative music, by the most
excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with variety
of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of per-
spective, and machines for flying in the air, and other
wonderful motions ; taken together, it is one of the most
magnificent and expensive diversions the wit of man can
invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 205
changed thirteen times. The famous voices Anna Rencia,
a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women; but
there was an eunuch who, in my opinion, surpassed her ;
also a Genoese that sung an incomparable base. This
held us by the eyes and ears till two in the morning,
when we went to the Ghetto de san Felice, to see the
noblemen and their ladies at basset, a game at cards which
is much used; but they play not in public, and all that
have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking
one word, and so they come in, play, lose, or gain, and go
away as they please. This time of licence is only in Car-
nival and this Ascension- Week ; neither are their theatres
open for that other magnificence, or for ordinary comedians,
save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and wise
people, and exact observers of all sumptuary laws.
There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy
Xiand, I had resolved to embark, intending to see Jerusalem,
and other parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey ; but, after I
had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to cool our drink,
bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a little
cabinet of drugs, in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof
Captain Powell was master) happened to be pressed for the
service of the State, to carry provisions to Candia, now
newly attacked by the Turks ; which alto;;ether frustrated
my design, to my great mortification.
On the . . . June, we went to Padua, to the Fair of their
St. Anthony, in company of divers passengers. The first
terra firma we landed at, was Fusina, being only an inn,
where we changed our barge, and were then drawn up by
horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even
as a line for twenty miles, the country on both sides
deliciously adorned with country villas and gentlemen's
retirements, gardens planted with oranges, figs, and other
fruit, belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas,
we went ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observ-
able in this passage was buying their water of those who
farm the sluices ; for this artificial river is in some places
jso shallow, that reserves of water are kept with sluices,
which they open and shut with a most ingenious invention,
or engine, governed even by a child. Thus they keep up
the water, or let it go, till the next channel be either filled
by the stop, or abated to the level of the other ; for which
206 DIARY OF [pADUA,
every boat pays a certain duty. Thus, we stayed near half
an hour and more, at three several places, so as it was
evening before we got to Padua. This is a very ancient
city, if the tradition of Antenor^s being the founder be not
a fiction; but thus speaks the inscription over a stately
gate :
Hanc antiquissimam nrbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agram
fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit anno ante
Christum natum M.Cxviii ; Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugna-
culis omavit.
The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name,
and is generally built like Bologna, on arches and on brick,
so that one may walk all round it, dry, and in the shade ;
which is very convenient in these hot countries, and I
think I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I was
this season, especially the next day, which was that of the
fair, filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and
solemn procession to their famous cathedral. Passing by
St. Lorenzo, I met with this subscription :
Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem*
Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq ; faga,
Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem,
Quern tegit hie humili marmore csesa domus.
Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now
come to St. Antony's (the street most of the way straight,
well-built, and outsides excellently painted in fresco) we
surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is erected a noble
statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one
Catta Malata,t a renowned captain. The church, a la
Greca, consists of five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the
left hand within, is the tomb of St. Antony and his altar,
about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles ascribed to
him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three
famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus,
and Hieronymus Compagno. A little higher is the choir,
walled parapet-fashion, with sundry coloured stone, half
relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar within is
* Keysler very justly observes, that the first line of this inscription conveys
no meaning. Vol. III., p. 220.
+ Lassells calls him Gatta Mela, tlie Venetian General, nicknamed Gata,
because of his watchfulness. P. 429.
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. £07
of the same metal which, with the candlestick and bases,
is, in my opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The
"wainscot of the choir is rarely inlaid and carved. Here
are the sepulchres of many famous persons, as of Rodolphus
Fulgosi, &c. ; and, among the rest, one for an exploit at sea,
has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession
bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which
was a very fine sight.
Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to
see the convent of St. Justina, than which I never beheld
one more magnificent. The church is an excellent piece
of architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved, with a
stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the
ashes of that saint. It is oi pietrd-commessa, consisting of
flowers very naturally done. The choir is inlaid with
several sorts of wood representing the holy history, finished
with exceeding industry. At the far end, is that rare
painting of St. Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo Veronese ;
and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Chris-
tians had been decapitated. In another place (to which
leads a small cloister well-painted) is a dry well, covered
with a brass-work grate, wherein are the bones of divers
martyrs. They show also the bones of St. Luke, in an old
alabaster cofiin ; three of the Holy Innocents ; and the
l5odies of St. Maximus and Prosdocimus.* The dormitory
above is exceeding commodious and stately; but, what
most pleased me, was the old cloister so well painted with
the legendary saints, mingled with many ancient inscrip-
tions, and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the foundation
of the church. Thus, having spent the day in rambles, I
returned the next day to Venice.
The arsenal is thought to be one of the best-furnished
in the world. We entered by a strong port, always
guarded, and, ascending a spacious gallery, saw arms of
back, breast, and head, for many thousands ; in another,
were saddles ; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks.
Another hall is for the meeting of the Senate ; passing
a graff, are the smiths' forges, where they are continually
employed on anchors and iron work. Near it is a well of
fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's horns
* St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. Lassells, p, 430.
20S DIARY OP [VENICE,
which they say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever
being empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters
were building their magazines of oars, masts, &c., for an
hundred galleys and ships, which have all their apparel
and furniture near them. Then the foundery, where they
cast ordnance; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of
them has thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon weigh-»
ing 16,573 lbs., cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and
put into a galley built, rigged, and fitted for launching
within that time. They have also arms for twelve galeasses,
which are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long and
thirty wide, not counting prow, or poop, and contain
twenty-eight banks of oars, each seven men, and to carry
1300 men, with three masts. In another, a magazine for
fifty galleys, and place for some hundreds more. Here
stands the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so
contrived that the slaves are not seen, having on the poop
a throne for the Doge to sit, when he goes in triumph to
espouse the Adriatic, Here is also a gallery of 200 yards
long for cables, and above that a magazine of hemp.
Opposite these, are the saltpetre houses, and a large row
of cells, or houses, to protect their galleys from the weather.
Over the gate, as we go out, is a room full of great and
small guns, some of which discharge six times at once.
Then, there is a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, grap-
ples, grenadoes, &c,, and over that arms for 800,000 men,
and by themselves arms for 400, taken from some that
were in a plot against the State ; together with weapons
of offence and defence for sixty-two ships ; thirty-two
pieces of ordnance, on carriages taken from the Turks, and
one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, it is not to be
reckoned up what this large place contains of this sort.
There were now twenty- three galleys, and four gally-
grossi, of 100 oars of a side. The whole arsenal is walled
about, and may be in compass about three miles, with
twelve towers for the watch, besides that the sea environs
it. The workmen, who are ordinarily 500, march out in
military order, and every evening receive their pay through
a small hole in the gate where the governor lives.
The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had mur-
dered his master, for which he had his head chopped off
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 209
by an axe that slid down a frame of timber, * between the
two tall columns in St. Mark^s piazza, at the sea-brink;
the executioner striking on the axe with a beetle ) and so
the head fell off the block.
Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani's Palace,
the portico whereof is excellent work. Indeed, the world
cannot show a city of more stately buildings, considering
the extent of it, all of square stone, and as chargeable in
their foundations) as superstructure, being all built on
piles at an immense cost. We returned home by the
chm*ch of St. Johanne and Paulo, before which is, in cop-
per, the statue of Bartolomeo Colone, on horseback, double
gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea Verrochio,
a Florentine ! This is a very fine church, and has in it
many rare altar-pieces of the best masters, especially that
on the left hand, of the Two Friars slain, which is of
Titian.
The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's
to the ceremony of the schismatic Greeks, who are per-
mitted to have their church, though they are at defiance
with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many
painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon.
Their rites differ not much from the Latins, save that of
communicating in both species, and distribution of the
holy bread. We afterwards fell into a dispute with a
Candiot, concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost.
The church is a noble fabric.
The church of St. Zachary is of Greek building, by
Leo IV. Emperor, and has in it the bones of that prophet,
•with divers other saints. Near this, we visited St. Luke's,
famous for the tomb of Aretin.f
Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa
Maria, newly incrusted with marble on the outside, and
adorned with porphyry, ophite, and Spartan stone. Near
the altar and under the organ, are sculptures, that are said
to be of the famous artist, Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul
• The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in France, were
made after the same manner.
•|- This epitaph has been made on the above satirist and atheist :
Here Ues the man who no man spared)
When the angry fit was on him ;
Nor God himself had better fared.
If Aretin had known him.
VOL. I. P
210 DIARY OF [PADCA,
I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Tlien^ to
St. John the Evangelist, where, amongst other heroes, lies
Andrea Baldarius, the inventor of oars applied to great
vessels for fighting.
We also saw St. Eoche, the roof whereof is, with the
school, or hall, of that rich confraternity, admirably painted
by Tintoretto, especially the Crucifix in the sacristia. We
saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and Carmelites'
monastery. ,
Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I passed to
the island of St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of
Benedictines, and a well-built church of Andrea Palladio,
the great architect. The pavement, cupola, choir, and
pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a
fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though
this is an island a little distant from the city ; it has also
an ohve-orchard, all environed by the sea. The new clois-
ter now bmlding has a noble stair-case paved with white
and black marble.
From hence, Ave visited St, Spirito and St. Laurence,
fair churches in several islands ; but most remarkable is
that of the Padri Olivetani, in St. Helen'« island, for the
rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid work, &c.
The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on
the following day, we visited the market, which is plenti-
fully furnished, and exceedingly cheap. Here we saw the
great hall, built in a spacious piaaza, and one of the most
magnificent in Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good
height, of a reddish marble polished, much used in these
parts, and happily found not far oft"; it is almost 200 paces
long, and forty in breadth, all covered with lead, without
any support of columns. At the farther end, stands the
bust, in white marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In
this town is the house wherein he was born, full of in-
SCTiptions and pretty £air.
Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on
the ceiling the celestial zodiac, and other astronomical
figures ; without side, there is a corridor, in manner of a
balcony, of the same stone ; and at the entry of each of
the three gates is the head of some famous person, as
Albert Eremitano, Julio PauUo (lawyers), and Peter Apo-
nius. In the piazza is the Podestk's and Capitano Grande's
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 211
Palace, well-built ; but, above all, the Monte Piet^, the
front whereof is of most excellent architecture. This is a
foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in
Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist
the poorer sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest,
together with magazines for deposit of goods, till redeemed.
Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing and ancient
University, especially for the study of physic and anatomy.
They are fairly built in quadrangle, with cloisters beneath,
and above with columns. Over the great gate are the
arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St.
Mark:
Sic ingi-edere, ut teipso quotidie doctior ; sic egredere ut indies
Patriae Christianseq ; Republicae utilior evadas ; ita demum Gymnasium
a te felicit^r se omatum existimabit.
CIO.IX.
About the court-walls, are carved in stone and painted
the blazons of the Consuls of all the nations, that from
time to time have had that charge and honour in the
University, which at my being there was my worthy friend
Dr. Rogers, who here took that degree.
The Schools for the lectures of the several sciences are
above, but none of them comparable, or so much fre-
quented, as the theatre for anatomy, which is excellently
contrived both for the dissector and spectators. I was
this day invited to dinner, and, in the afternoon, (30th July)
received my matricula, being resolved to spend some
months here at study, especially physic and anatomy, of
both which there were now the most famous professors in
Europe. My matricula contained a clause, that I, my
goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all
tolls and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return,
buy, or sell, without any toll, &c.
The next morning, I saw the garden of simples, rarely
furnished with plants, and gave order to the gardener to
make me a collection of them for an hortus hyemalis, by
permission of the Cavaher Dr. Veslingius, then Prefect and
Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomy.
This morning, the Earl of Arundel,* now in this city, a
* The celebrated Thomas, Earl of Arundel, part of whose collection was
eventually procured for the University of Oxford by Mr. Evelyn, and is dis-
tingiiished by the name oi Marmora Arumddiana.
p 2
212 DIARY OP [murano,
famous collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me
to go with him to see the garden of Mantua, where, as one
enters, stands a huge colosse of Hercules. From hence to
a place where was a room covered with a noble cupola,
built purposely for music ; the fillings up, or cove, betwixt
the walls, were of urns and earthen pots, for the better
sounding; it was also well-painted. After dinner, we
walked to the Palace of Foscari all' Arena, there remain-
ing yet some appearances of an ancient theatre, though
serving now for a court only before the house. There were
now kept in it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep,
a stag, and sundry fowls, as in a vivary.
Three days after, I returned to Venice, and passed over
to Murano, famous for the best glasses in the world,
where having viewed their furnaces and seen their work,
I made a collection of divers curiosities and glasses, which
I sent for England by long sea. It is the white flints they
have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly
small, and mix with ashes made of a sea- weed brought out
of Syria, and a white sand, that causes this manufacture
to excel. The town is a Podestaria by itself, at some
miles distant on the sea from Venice, and like it built
upon several small islands. In this place, are excellent
oysters, small and well-tasted like our Colchester, and
they were the first, as I remember, that I ever could eat >
for I had naturally an aversion to them.
At our return to Venice, we met several gondolas full
of Venetian ladies, who come thus far in fine weather to
take the air, with music and other refreshments. Besides
that, Murano is itself a very nobly built town, and has
divers noblemen's palaces in it, and handsome gardens.
In coming back, we saw the islands of St. Christopher
and St. Michael, the last of which has a church enriched
and incrusted with marbles and other architectonic orna-
ments, which the monks very courteously showed us. It
was built and founded by Margaret Emihana of Verona, a
famous courtezan, who purchased a great estate, and by
this foundation hoped to commute for her sins. "We then
rowed by the isles of St. Nicholas, whose church, with the
monuments of the Justinian family, entertained us awhile :
and then got home.
The next morning, Captain Powell, in whose ship I was
]645.] JOHN EVELYN. 213
to embark towards Turkey, invited me on board, lying
about ten miles from Venice, where we had a dinner of
English powdered beef and other good meat, with store of
wine and great guns, as the manner is. After dinner,
the Captain presented me with a stone he had lately
brought from Grand Cairo, which he took from the
mummy -pits, full of hieroglyphics ; I drew it on paper
with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to Mr.
Henshaw to communicate to Father Kircher, who was
then setting forth his great work " Obeliscus Pamphilius,"
where it is described, but without mentioning my name.
The stone was afterwards brought for me into England,
and landed at Wapping, where, before I could hear of it,
it was broken into several fragments, and utterly defaced,
to my no small disappointment.
The boatswain of the ship also gave me a hand and foot
of a mummy, the nails whereof had been overlaid with
thin plates of gold, and the whole body was perfect, when
he brought it out of Egypt ; but the avarice of the ship^s
crew broke it to pieces, and divided the body among them.
He presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and some
loaves of the bread which the Coptics use in the holy
Sacrament, with other curiosities.
8th August. I had news from Padua of my election to
be Syndicus Artisiarum, which caused me, after two days'
idling in a country viUa with the Consul of Venice, to
hasten thither, that I might discharge myself of that
honour, because it was not only chargeable, but would have
hindered my progress, and they chose a Dutch gentleman
in my place, which did not well please my countrymen,
who had laboured not a little to do me the greatest
honour a stranger is capable of in that University. Being
freed from this impediment, and having taken leave of
Dr. Janicius, a Polonian, who was going physician in the
Venetian galleys to Candia, I went again to Venice, and
made a collection of several books and some toys. Three
days after, I returned to Padua, where I studied hard till
the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and some other
English gentlemen whom I had left at Rome, and who
made me go back to Venice, where I spent some time in
showing them what I had seen there.
26th September. My dear friend, and till now my
2J4 DIARY OP [ PADUA,
constant fellow-traveller, Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to
return to England upon his particular concern, and who
had served his Majesty in the wars, I accompanied him
part of his way, and, on the 28th, returned to Venice.
29th. Michaelmas-day, I went with my Lord Mowbray
(eldest son to the Earl of Arundel, and a most worthy
person) to see the collection of a noble Venetian, Signor
E/Ugini. He has a stately Palace, richly furnished with
statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all placed in an
ample room. In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both
Latin and Greek, with divers curious shells and two fair
pearls in two of them ; but, above all, he abounded in
things petrified, walnuts, eggs in which the yolk rattled/ a
pear, a piece of beef with the bones in it, a Avhole hedge-
hog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and
very perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its
levity, sponges, and a piece of taft'ety, part rolled up, with
innumerable more. In another cabinet, supported by
twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about with
crystal, he showed us several noble intaglios of agate,
especially a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her
dog, some rare cornelians, onyxes, crystals, &c., in one of
which was a drop of water not congealed, but moving up
and down, when shaken ; above all, a diamond which had
a very fair ruby growing in it; divers pieces of amber,
wherein were several insects, in particular one cut like a
heart that contained in it a salamander without the least
defect, and many pieces of mosaic. The fabric of this
cabinet was very ingenious, set thick with agates, tur-
quoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of which
was an antique of a dog in stone scratching his ear, very
rarely cut, and comparable to the greatest curiosity I had
ever seen of that kind for the accurateness of the work.
The next chamber had a bedstead all inlaid with agates,
crystals, cornelians, lazuli, &c., esteemed worth 16,000
crowns ; but, for the most part, the bedsteads in Italy are
of forged iron gilded, since it is impossible to keep the
wooden ones from the cimices.
From hence, I returned to Padua, when that town was
so infested with soldiers, that many houses were broken
open in the night, some murders committed, and the nuns
next our lodging disturbed, so as we were forced to be on
1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 215
our guard with pistols and other fire-arms to defend our
doors ; and indeed the students themselves take a barba-
rous liberty in the evenings when they go to their strum-
pets, to stop all that pass by the house where any of their
companions in folly are with them. This custom they call
chi vali, so as the streets are very dangerous, when the
evenings grow dark ; nor is it easy to reform this intole-
rable usage, where there are so many strangers of several
nations.
Using to drink my wine cooled with snow and ice, as
the manner here is, I was so afflicted with an angina and
sore-throat, that it had almost cost me my life. After all
the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief professor here,
could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being
called, made me be cupped, and scarified in the back in four
places ; which began to give me breath, and consequently
life; for I was in the utmost danger; but, God being
merciful to me, I was after a fortnight abroad again;
when, changing my lodging, I went over against Pozzo
Pinto, where I bought for winter provision 3000 weight of
excellent grapes, and pressed my own wine, which proved
incomparable liquor.
This was on 10th October. Soon after came to visit
me from Venice Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to the
Earl of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, son to the Lord Chief
Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went to another
part of the city to lodge near St. Catherine's, over-against
the monastery of nuns, where we hired the whole house,
and lived very nobly. Here I learned to play on the
theorb, taught by Signor Dominico Bassano, who had a
daughter married to a doctor of laws, that played and sung
to nine several instruments, with that skill and address as
few masters in Italy exceeded her ; she likewise composed
divers excellent pieces. I had never seen any play on the
Naples viol before. She presented me afterwards with
two recitatives of hers, both words and music.
31st October. Being my birth-day, the nuns of St.
Catherine's sent me flowers of silk-work. We were very
studious all this winter till Christmas, when, on Twelfth-
day, we invited all the English and Scots in town to a
feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably.
1645-6. In January, Signor Molino was chosen Doge
216 DIARY OF [pADUA,
of Venice, but the extreme snow that fell, and the cold,
hindered my going to see the solemnity, so as I stirred not
from Padua till Shrovetide, when all the world repair to
Venice, to see the folly and madness of the Carnival ; the
women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising
themselves in antique dresses, with extravagant music and
a thousand gambols, traversing the streets from house to
house, all places being then accessible and free to enter.
Abroad, they fling eggs filled with sweet water, but some-
times not over-sweet. They also have a barbarous custom
of hunting bulls about the streets and piazzas, which is
very dangerous, the passages being generally narrow.
The youth of the several wards and parishes contend in
other masteries and pastimes, so that it is impossible to
recount the universal madness of this place during this
time of license. The great banks are set up for those who
will play at bassett ; the comedians have hberty, and the
operas are open ; witty pasquils are thrown about, and the
mountebanks have their stages at every comer. The
diversion which chiefly took me up was three noble operas,
where were excellent voices and music, the most cele-
brated of which was the famous Anna Rencha, whom we
invited to a fish-dinner after four days in Lent, when they
had given over at the theatre. Accompanied with an
eunuch whom she brought with her, she entertained us
with rare music, both of them singing to a harpsichord.
It growing late, a gentleman of Venice came for her, to
show her the galleys, now ready to sail for Candia. This
entertainment produced a second, given us by the English
consul of the merchants, inviting us to his house, where he
had the Genoese, the most celebrated base in Italy, who
was one of the late opera-band. This diversion held us so
late at night, that, conveying a gentlewoman who had
supped Avith us to her gondola at the usual place of land-
ing, we were shot at by two carbines from another gondola,
in which were a noble Venetian and his courtezan un-
willing to be disturbed, which made us run in and fetch
other weapons, not knowing what the matter was, till we
were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing
it farther.
Three days after this, I took my leave of Venice, and
went to Padua, to be present at the famous anatomy lee-
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 217
tnre, celebrated here with extraordinary apparatus, lasting
almost a whole month. During this time, I saw a woman,
a child, and a man dissected with all the manual opera-
tions of the chirurgeon on the human body. The one was
performed by Cavalier Veslingius and Dr. Jo. Athelsteinus
Leonsenas, of whom I purchased those rare tables of veins
and nerves, and caused him to prepare a third of the
lungs, liver, and nervi sexti par: with the gastric veins,
which I sent into England, and afterwards presented to
the Royal Society, being the first of that kind that had
been seen there, and, for aught I know, in the world,
though afterwards there were others. When the anatomy
lectures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went
to see cures done in the hospitals ; and certainly as there
are the greatest helps and the most skilful physicians, so
there are the most miserable and deplorable objects to exer-
cise upon. Nor is there any, 1 should think, so powerful an
argument against the vice reigning in this licentious
country, as to be spectator of the misery these poor creatures
undergo. They are indeed very carefully attended, and
with extraordinary charity.
20th March. I returned to Venice, where I took leave
of my friends.
22nd. I was invited to excellent English potted venison,
at Mr. Hobbson^s, a worthy merchant.
23rd. I took my leave of the Patriarch and the Prince
of Wirtemberg, and Monsieur Grotius (son of the learned
Hugo) now going as commander to Candia ; and, in the
afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my merchant, my bills
of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He showed me
his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed very curious,
and of good value.
The next day, I was conducted to the Ghetta, where the
Jews dwell together in as a tribe, or ward, where I was pre-
sent at a marriage. The bride was clad in white, sitting
in a lofty chair, and covered Avith a white veil ; then two
old Rabbis joined them together, one of them holding a
glass of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of the cere-
mony, pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the
breaking whereof was to signify the frailty of our nature,
and that we must expect disasters and crosses amidst all
enjoyments. This done, we had a fine banquet, and were
218 DIARY OF [VENICE,
brought into the bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed
up with flowers, and the counterpane strewed in works.
At this ceremony, we saw divers very beautiful Portuguese
Jewesses, with whom we had some conversation.
I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his
confessor, and obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish
dominions; without which I was not to travel, in this
pompous form :
" Don Gaspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Senor Le
Lerena y Verazuza, Comendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago,
Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla,
Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, de su Consejo,
su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia, y Alemania, y a
esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, &c. Haviendo de partir de esta
Ciudad para LaMilan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn Ingles, con un Criado,
mi ban pedido Passa-porte para los Estates de su M. Le he mandado
dar el presente, firmado de mi mano, y sellado con el sello de mis armas,
por el qual encargo a todos los menestros de S. M. antes quien le presen-
tase y a los que no lo son, supplico les dare passar libramente sin per-
mitir que se le haya vexacion alguna antes mandar le las favor para
continuar su viage. Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo dell
an'o 1646. Mar. de la Fuentes, &c."
Having packed up my purchases of books> pictures,
casts, treacle, &c., (the making and extraordinary cere-
mony whereof I had been curious to observe, for it is
extremely pompous and worth seeing) I departed from
Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated
poet), now newly gotten out of England, after the Parlia-
ment had extremely worried him for attempting to put in
execution the commission of Array, and for which the rest
of his colleagues were hanged by the rebels.
The next day, I took leave of my comrades at Padua,
and receiving some directions from Dr. Salvatico as to
the care of my health, I prepared for my journey toward
Milan.
It was Easter-Monday that I was invited to breakfast
at the Earl of Arunders.* I took my leave of him in his
bed, where I left that great and excellent man in tears on
some private discourse of crosses that had befallen his
* Lasselk, who travelled a short time after Mr. Evelyn, says, that the Earl
died here, and that his bowels are buried under a black marble stone, inscribed,
*♦ Interiora Thomse Howard Gomitis Arondelise." P. 429,
164G.] JOHN EVELYN. 219
illustrious family, particularly the undutifulness of his
grandson Philip's turning Dominican Friar (since Cardinal
of Norfolk), and the misery of his country now embroiled
in civil war. He caused his gentleman to give me direc-
tions, all written with his own hand, what curiosities I
should inquire after in my journey ; and so, enjoining me
to write sometimes to him, I departed. There stayed for
me below, Mr. Henry Howard (afterwards Duke of Nor-
folk), Mr. J. Digby, son of Sir Kenelm Digby, and other
gentlemen, who conducted me to the coach.
The famous lapidaries of Venice for false stones and
pastes, so as to emulate the best diamonds, rubies, &c., were
Marco Terrasso, and Gilbert.
An accompt of what Bills of Exchange I took up at Venice since my
coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua.
11th Aug., 1645 . . .200
7th Sept 135
1st Oct. . . . .100
15th Jan., 1646 . . . . 100
23rd April .... 300
835 Ducati di Banco.
In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray
(son of Sir Christopher, whose father had been in arms
against his Majesty, and therefore by no means welcome
to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned man, we got
that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganean hills, cele-
brated for the prospects and ftirniture of rare simples,
which we found growing about them. The ways were
something deep, the whole country flat and even as a
bowling-green. The common fields lie square, and are
orderly planted with fruit-trees, which the vines run and
embrace, for many miles, with delicious streams creeping
along the ranges.
Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet ap-
pertaining to the Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid
palaces, to which the famous Palladio, born here, has
exceedingly contributed, having been the architect. Most
conspicuous is the Hall of Justice ; it has a tower of
excellent work ; the lower pillars are of the first order ;
those in the three upper corridors are Doric ; under them,
are shops in a spacious piazza. The hall Avas built in
220 DIARY OF [vicENZA,
imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler design, a la
moderna. The next morning, we visited the theatre, as
being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and
built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans,
and capable of containing 5000 spectators. The scene,
which is all of stone, represents an imperial city, the order
Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario, is
inscribed, "Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Thea-
trum hoc a fundaraentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584.'."
The scene dechnes eleven feet, the soffito painted with
clouds. To this, there joins a spacious hall for solemn days
to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the
Piazza, is also the podesta, or governor's house, the facciata
being of the Corinthian order, very noble. The Piazza
itself is so large as to be capable of jousts and tournaments,
the nobility of this city being exceedingly addicted to this
knight-errantry, and other martial diversions. In this
place, are two pillars in imitation of those at St Mark's at
Venice, bearing one of them a winged lipn, the other the
statue of St. John the Baptist.
In a word, this sweet town has more well-built palaces
than any of its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number
begun and not yet finished (but of stately design) by
reason of the domestic dissensions betwixt them and those
of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians, lest by combin-
ing, they might think of recovering their ancient liberty.
For this reason, also, are permitted those disorders and
insolences committed at Padua among the youth of these
two territories. It is no dishonour in this country to be
some generations in finishing their palaces, that without
exhausting themselves by a vast expense at once, they may
at last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine's Palace is
near perfected in this manner. Count Ulmarini * is more
famous for his gardens, being without the walls, especially
his cedrario, or conserve of oranges, eleven score of my
paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all
the way by their intermixing branches for more than 200
of my single paces, and which, being full of fruit and blos-
soms, was a most dehcious sight. In the middle of this
garden, was a cupola made of wire, supported by slender
pillars of brick, so closely covered with ivy, both without
* Lassells calls him Yalmerana, p. 435.
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 221
and within, that nothing was to be perceived but green ;
betwixt the arches, there dangled festoons of the same.
Here is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth.
I had in this town recommendation to a very civil and
ingenious apothecary, called Angelico, who had a pretty
collection of paintings. I would fain have visited a Palace,
called the Rotunda, which was a mile out of town, belong-
ing to Count Martio Capra ; but one of our companions
hastening to be gone, and little minding anything save
drinking and folly, caused us to take coach sooner than we
should have done.
A little from the town, we passed the Campo Martio,
set out in imitation of ancient Rome, wherein the nobles
exercise their horses, and the ladies make the Cor so ; it is
entered by a stately triumphal arch, the invention of
PaUadio.
Being now set out for Verona, about midway we dined
at Ostaria Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which
was the Cavaletto, just over the monument of the Scala-
geri,* formerly Princes of Verona, adorned with many
devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name.
Early next morning, we went about the city, which
is built on the gentle declivity and bottom of a hill, envi-
roned in part with some considerable mountains and downs
of fine grass, like some places in the south of England; and,
on the other side, having the rich plain where Caius Marius
overthrew the Cimbrians. The city is divided in the midst
by the river Adige, over which are divers stately bridges,
and on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one is
well painted in chiaro-oscuro on the outside, as are divers
in this dry climate of Italy.
The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder,
too, was the amphitheatre, which is the most entire of
ancient remains now extant. The inhabitants call it the
Arena : it has two porticos, one within the other, and is
thirty-four rods long, twenty-two in breadth, with forty-two
ranks of stone benches, or seats, which reach to the top.
The vastness of the marble stones is stupendous. " L. V.
Flaminius, Consul, anno. urb. con. liii." This I esteem to
be one of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it is so vast
• Or della Scala.
223 DIARY OF [vERONA,
and entire, having escaped the ruins of so many other
pubhc buildings for above 1400 years.
There are other arches, as that of the victory of Marius ;
temples, aqueducts, &c., showing still considerable remains
in several places of the town, and how magnificent it has
formerly been. It has three strong castles, and a large and
noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely built, espe-
cially the Senate-house, where we saw those celebrated sta-
tues of Cornelius Nepos, ^milius Marcus, Plinius, and
Vitnivius, all having honoured Verona by their birth; and,
of later date, Julius Caesar Scaliger, that prodigy of
learning.
In the evening, we saw the garden of Count Giusti^s
villa, where are walks cut out of the main rock, from whence
we had the pleasant prospect of Mantua and Parma, though
at great distance. At the entrance of this garden, grows
the goodhest cypress, I fancy, in Europe, cut in a pyramid ;
it is a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, entirely
covered, and thick to the base.
Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, amongst other rarities,
a St. Dorothea, of Raphael. We could not see the rare
drawings, especially of Parmensis, belonging to Dr. Mar-
cello, another advocate, on account of his absence.
Verona deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honoured
it with; for, in my opinion, the situation is the most
delightful I ever saw, it is so sweetly mixed with rising
ground and valleys, so elegantly planted with trees on which
Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every autumn,
for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here, of all places I
have seen in Italy, would I fix a residence. Well has that
learned man given it the name of the very eye of the
world : —
Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeli,
Flos Urbium, flos corniculumq' amoenmn,
Quot sunt, enintve, quot fuere, Verona.
The next morning, we travelled over the downs where
Marius fought, and fancied ourselves about Winchester,
and the country towards Dorsetshire. We dined at an inn,
called Cavalli Caschieii, near Peschiera, a very strong fort
of the Venetian Repubhc, and near the Lago di Garda,
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 223
which disembogues into that of Mantua, near forty miles
in length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as
the most pleasant spot in Italy, for which reason I observed
it with the more diligence, ahghting out of the coach, and
going up to a grove of cypresses growing about a gentle-
man's country-house, from whence indeed it presents a
most surprising prospect. The hills and gentle risings
about it produce oranges, citrons, oHves, figs, and other
tempting fruits, and the waters abound in excellent fish,
especially trouts. In the middle of this lake, stands Ser-
monea, on an island ; here Captain Wray bought a pretty
nag of the master of our inn where we dined, for eight
pistoles, which his wife, our hostess, was so unwilling to
part with, that she did nothing but kiss and weep and hang
about the horse's neck, till the captain rode away.
We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning
we traversed, according to our custom, in sesirch of anti-
quities and new sights. Here, I purchased of old Lazarino
Cominazzo my fine carbine, which cost me nine pistoles,
this city being famous for these fire-arms, and that work-
man, with Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. The city
consists most in artists, every shop abounding in guns,
swords, armourers, &c. Most of the workmen come out
of Germany. It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle
is built on a hilL The streets abound in fair fountains.
The Torre della Pallada is of a noble Tuscan order, and
the Senate-house is inferior to few. The piazza is but
indifferent ; some of the houses arched as at Padua. The
Cathedral was under repair. We would from hence have
visited Parma, Piacenza, Mantua, &c. ; but the banditti,
and other dangerous parties being abroad, committing many
enormities, we were contented with a Pisgah sight of them.
We dined next day at Ursa Vecchia, and, after diiiner,
passed by an exceeding strong fort of the Venetians, called
Ursa Nova, on their frontier. Then by the river Oglio, and
so by Sonano, where we enter the Spanish dominions, and
that night arrived at Crema, which belongs to Venice, and
is well-defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, and
so is the Duomo, or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with
an ample piazza.
Early next day, after four miles' riding, we entered into
224 DIARY OF [MILAN,
the State of Milan, and passed by Lodi,* a great city
famous for cheese, little short of the best Parmeggiano.
We dined at Marignano, ten miles before coming to Milan,
where we met half-a-dozen suspicious cavahers, who yet
did us no harm. Then, passing as through a continual
garden, we went on with exceeding pleasure; for it is
the Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as even and
straight as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with
fruit about the enclosures, vines to every tree at equal dis-
tances, and watered with frequent streams. There was
likewise much corn, and olives in abundance. At approach
of the city, some of our company, in dread of the Inquisi-
tion, (severer here than in all Spain), thought of throwing
away some Protestant books and papers. We arrived
about three in the afternoon, when the ofl&cers searched us
thoroughly for prohibited goods ; but, finding we were only
gentlemen travellers, dismissed us for a small reward, and
we went quietly to our inn, the Three Kings, where, for that
day, we refreshed ourselves, as we had need. The next
morning, we delivered our letters of recommendation to
the learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor of the
Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the remark-
able places of the town, the first of which was the famous
Cathedral. We entered by a portico so little inferior to
that of Rome that, when it is finished, it will be hard to
say which is the fairest ; the materials are all of white and
black marble, with columns of great height, of Egyptian
granite. The outside of the church is so full of sculpture,
that you may number 4000 statues, all of white marble,
amongst which that of St. Bartholomew is esteemed a
masterpiece. The church is very spacious, almost as long
as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. About the choir,
the sacred Story is finely sculptured, in snow-white marble,
nor know I where it is exceeded. About the body of the
church are the miracles of St. Charles Borromeo, and in
the vault beneath is his body before the high altar, grated,
and enclosed, in one of the largest crystals in Europe. To
this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of
marble within and without, and even covered with great
• Celebrated for the victory gained by Buonaparte over the Austrians,
in 1796,
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 225
planks of marble, in the Gothic design. The windows are
most beautifully painted. Here are two very fair and
excellent organs. The fabric is erected in the midst of a
fair piazza, and in the centre of the city.
Hence, we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which
is a quadrangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who designed
much for Phihp II. in the Escurial, and has built much in
Milan. Hence, into the Governor's Palace, who was Con-
jstable of Castile. Tempted by the glorious tapestries and
pictures, I adventured so far alone, that peeping into
a chamber where the great man was under the barber's
hands, he sent one of his negroes (a slave) to know what I
was. I made the best excuse I could, and that I was only
admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his
lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was a spy; on which I
retired with all the speed I could, passed the guard of
Swiss, got into the street, and in a moment to my com-
pany, who were gone to the Jesuits' Church, which in truth
is a noble structure, the front especially, after the modern.
After dinner, we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of
Tare architecture, built by Bramante ; the carvings of the
■m&rhle facciata are by Annibal Fontana, whom they esteem
■at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a room
joining to the Church, is a marble Madonna, like a Colosse,
of the same sculptor's work, which they will not expose to
the air. There are two sacristias, in one of which is a fine
Virgin, of Leonardo da Vinci; in the other, is one of Raphael
d'Urbino, a piece which all the world admires. The
Sacristan showed us a world of rich plate, jewels, and
embroidered copes, which are kept in presses.
Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, a quadrangular
cloister of a vast compass, a truly royal fabric, with an
annual endowment of 50,000 crowns of gold. There is in
the middle of it a cross building for the sick, and, just under
it, an altar so placed as to be seen in all places of the
Infirmary.
There are divers colleges built in this quarter, richly pro-
vided for by the same Borromeo and his nephew, the last
Cardinal Frederico, some not yet finished, but of excellent
design.
In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodies of
the three Magi, since translated to Cologne, in Germany ;
VOL. I. Q
226 DIARY OF luiLJLv,
they however preserve the tomb, which is a square stone,
on which is engraven a star, and under it, " Sepulchrum
trium Magorum/^
Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of
marble, and the ruins of a Temple of Hercules, with this
inscription yet standing :
Imp. Caesari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico
Max. Trib. Pot. VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi
Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervse Abnepoti
Dec. Dec.
"We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of
Madonna deUe Grazie, and in the refectory admired that
celebrated Ccena Domi?ii of Leonardo da Vinci, which
takes up the entire wall at the end, and is the same that
the great virtuoso, Francis the First of France, was so ena-
moured of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall by
binding it about with ribs of iron and timber, to convey it
into France. It is indeed one of the rarest paintings that
was ever executed by Leonardo, who was long in the service
of that Prince, and so dear to him that the King coming
to visit him in his old age and sickness, he expired in his
arms. But this incomparable piece is now exceedingly
impaired.*
Early next morning, came the learned Dr. Ferrarius to
visit us, and took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian
Library, where Cardinal Fred. Borromeo has expended so
vast a sum on this building, and in furnishing with curiosi-
ties, especially paintings and drawings of inestimable value
amongst painters. It is a school fit to make the ablest
artists. There are many rare things of Hans Breugel, and
amongst them the Four Elements. In this room, stands
the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavaliero Galeazzo
Arconati, valuing his gift to the library of several drawings
by Da Vinci, but these we could not see, the keeper of
* It is not noticed in the Painter's Voyage of Italy, published 1679, pro-
bably from its decay. The painting is still there, but, having been often
retouched, on account of the dampness of the wall, is certainly not what it
once was. The picture has been again drawn into notice in England, from
the magnificent print of it lately engraved in Italy by Baphael Morghen, which
is esteemed one of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been
executed. There is also an old engraving from it by Peter Soutman, but
which by no means exhibits a true delineation of the characters of the piece,
as designed by Leonardo.
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 227
them being out of town, and he always carrying the keys
with him ; but my Lord Marshal, who had seen them, told
me all but one book are small, that a huge folio contained
400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, &c. ; but whereas
the inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered
1000/. for them, — ^the truth is, and my Lord himself told
me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himself,
in the name and by permission of the King, and that the
Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, should make the
bargain ; but my Lord, having seen them since, did not
think them of so much worth.
In the great room, where is a goodly library, on the
right hand of the door, is a small wainscot closet fur-
nished with rare manuscripts. Two original letters of the
Grand Signor were showed us, sent to two Popes, one
of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. [Borgia],
and the other mentioning the head of the lance which
pierced our Blessed Saviour's side as a present to the
Pope : I would fain have gotten a copy of them, but could
not; I hear, however, that they are since translated into
Italian, and that therein is a most honourable mention of
Christ.
We re-visited St. Ambrose's church. The high altar is
supported by four porphyry columns, and under it lie the
remains of that holy man. Near it they showed us a pit,
or well (an obscure place it is), where they say St. Ambrose
baptized St. Augustine, and recited the Te Deum ; for so
imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some
Councils that have been held here, and for the coronation
of divers Italian Kings and Emperors, receiving the iron
crown from the Archbishop of this See.* They show the
History by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. The
high altar is wonderfully rich.
Milan is one of the most princely cities in Europe : it
has no suburbs, but is circled with a stately wall for ten
miles, in the centre of a country that seems to flow with
milk and honey. The air is excellent ; the fields fruitful
to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of pro-
visions. In the city are near 100 churches, 71 monasteries,
and 40,000 inhabitants; it is of a circular figure, fortified
* fuonapftrte took it and put it on lus own hs»/^.
q2
228 DIARY OF [MILAN,
with bastions, full of sumptuous palaces and rare artists,
especially for works in crystal, which is here cheap, being
found among the Alps. They have curious straw-work
among the nuns, even to admiration. It has a good river,
and a citadel at some small distance from the city, com-
manding it, of great strength for its works and munition
of all kinds. It was built by Galeatius the Second, and
consists of four bastions, and works at the angles and
fronts; the graff is faced with brick to a very great depth;
has two strong towers as one enters, and within is another
fort, and spacious lodgings for the soldiers, and for exercis-
ing them. No accommodation for strength is wanting,
and all exactly uniform. They have here also all sorts of
work and tradesmen, a great magazine of arms and pro-
visions. The fosse is of spring water, with a mill for
grinding corn, and the ramparts vaulted underneath. Don
Juan Vasques Coronada was now Governor; the garrison
Spaniards only.
There is nothing better worth seeing than the collec-
tion of Signor Septalla,* a canon of St. Ambrose, famous
over Christendom for his learning and virtues. Amongst
other things, he showed us an Indian wood, that has the
perfect scent of civet ; a flint, or pebble, that has a quan-
tity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being
clear, as agate ; divers crystals that have water moving in
them^ some of them having plants, leaves, and hog^s bristles
in thepi ; much amber full of insects, and divers things of
woven amianthus.f
Milan: is a sweet place, and, though the streets are
narrow, * -they abound in rich coaches, and are full of
noblesse/-,'who frequent the course every night. Walking
a turn in the portico before the dome, a cavaliero who
passed by/ hearing some of us speaking English, looked a
good while earnestly on us, and by and bye sending his
* Tlie Painter's Voyage particularizes 85 pictures in this Collection, but
few of them by great masters.
t There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum, in its day one of
the most celebrated in all Italy ; both are in small quarto, the one in Latin,
the later and most complete one, in Italian. To tliis is prefixed a large inside
view of the Museum, exhibiting its curious contents of busts, statues, pictxires,
urns, and every kind of rarity, natui*al and artificial.
Keysler, in his Travels, laments the not being able to see it, on account of a
law-suit then depending, and it has been long since dispersed, probably iu con-
sequence of it.
1C46.] JOHN EVELYN. 229
servant, desired we would honour him the next day at
dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, he not
speaking to us himself, but we returned his civility with
thanks, though not fully resolved what to do, or indeed
what might be the meaning of it in this jealous place; but,
on enquiry, it was told us he was a Scots Colonel, who had
an honourable command in the city, so that we agreed to
go. This afternoon, we were wholly taken up in seeing an
opera represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in
excellent music with rare scenes, in which there acted a
celebrated beauty.
Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, who had sent
his servant again to conduct us to his house, which we
found to be a noble palace, richly furnished. There were
other guests, all soldiers, one of them a Scotchman, but we
could not learn one of their names. At dinner, he excused
his rudeness that he had not himself spoken to us, telling
us it was his custom, when he heard of any English
travellers (who but rarely would be known to pass through
that city for fear of the Inquisition), to invite them to his
house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous
dinner, and the wine was so tempting that after some
healths had gone about, and we had risen from table, the
Colonel led us into his hall, where there hung up divers
colours, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other arms, being
trophies which he had taken with his own hands from the
enemy ; amongst them, he would needs bestow a pair of
pistols on Captain Wray, one of our fellow-travellers and a
good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish bridle
woven with silk and very curiously embossed, with other
silk trappings, to which hung a half moon finely wrought,
which he had taken from a bashaw whom he had slain.
With this glorious spoil, I rid the rest of my journey as
far as Paris, and brought it afterwards into England. He
then showed us a stable of brave horses, with his menage
and cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caused to be
brought out, which he mounted, and performed all the
motions of an excellent horseman. When this was done,
and he had alighted, contrary to the advice of his groom
and page, who knew the nature of the beast, and that their
master was a little spirited with wine, he would have a
fiery horse that had not yet been managed and was very
230 DIARY OF [sESTo,
•ungovernable^ but was otherwise a very beautiful creature ;
this, he mounting, the horse getting the reins in a full
carrier, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, crushing
the Colonel so forcibly against the wall of the menage,
that though he sat on him like a Centaur, yet recovering the
jade on all fours again, he desired to be taken down and
so led in, where he cast himself on a pallet, and, with infi-
nite lamentations, after some time we took leave of him,
being now speechless. The next morning, going to visit
him, we found before the door the canopy which they
usually carry over the host, and some with lighted tapers ;
which made us suspect he was in very sad condition, and
so indeed Ave found him, an Irish Friar standing by his
bedside as confessing him, or at least disguising a confes-
sion, and other ceremonies used in extremis, for we after-
wards learned that the gentleman was a Protestant, and
had this Friar, his confidant ; which was a dangerous thing
at Milan, had it been but suspected. At our entrance, he
sighed grievously, and held up his hands, but was not able
to speak. After vomiting some blood, he kindly took us
all by the hand, and made signs that he should see us no
more, which made us take our leave of him with extreme
reluctancy and affliction for the accident. This sad disaster
made us consult about our departure as soon as we could,
not knowing how we might be inquired after, or engaged,
the Inquisition being so cruelly formidable and inevitable,
on the least suspicion. The next morning, therefore, dis-
charging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to carry us
to the foot of the Alps, not a little concerned for the death
of the Colonel, which we now heard of, and who had so
courteously entertained us.
The first day, we got as far as Castellanza, by which
runs a considerable river into Lago Maggiore ; here, at
dinner, were two or three Jesuits, who were very prag-
matical and inquisitive, whom we declined conversation
with as decently as we could : so we pursued our journey
through a most fruitful plain, but the weather was wet and
uncomfortable. At night, we lay at Sesto.
The next morning, leaving our coach, we embarked in a
boat to carry us over the lake (being one of the largest in
Europe), and whence we could see the towering Alps, and
amongst them the great San Bernardo, esteemed the
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 231
highest mountaiu in Europe, appearing to be some miles
above the clouds. Through this vast water, passes the river
Ticinus, which discharges itself into the Po, by which
means Helvetia transports her merchandizes into Italy,
which we now begin to leave behind us.
Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hauled
ashore at Arona, a strong town belonging to the Duchy
of Milan, where, being examined by the Governor, and
paying a small duty, we were dismissed. Opposite to this
fort, is Angiera, another small town, the passage very
pleasant with the prospect of the Alps covered with pine
and fir-trees, and above them snow. We passed the pretty
Island Isabella,* about the middle of the lake, on which is
a fair house built on a mount ; indeed, the whole island is
a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set
above with orange and citron trees.
The next we saw was Isola,* and we left on our right
hand the Isle of St. Jovanni ; * and so sailing by another
small town built also on an island, we arrived at night at
Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the lake, and
at the very foot of the Alps, which now rise as it were
suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even
country in the world, and where there is hardly a stone to
be found, as if Nature had here swept up the rubbish of
the earth in the Alps, to form and clear the plains of
Lombardy, which we had hitherto passed since our coming
from Venice. In this wretched place, I lay on a bed
stuffed with leaves, which made such a crackhng, and did
so prick my skin through the tick, that I could not sleep.
The next morning, I was furnished with an ass, for we
could not get horses ; instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied
with a loop to put our feet in, which supplied the place of
other trappings. Thus, with my gallant steed, bridled with
my Turkish present, we passed through a reasonably plea-
sant but very narrow valley, till we came to Duomo,
where we rested, and, having showed the Spanish pass, the
Oovernor would press another on us, that his Secretary
might get a crown. Here, we exchanged our asses for
mules, sure-footed on the hills and precipices, being accus-
tomed to pass them. Hiring a guide, we were brought
* These are called " the Borromean Islands in the Lago Maggiore, belong-
ing to the great Milanese family of Borromeo."
232 DIARY OF [vEDK*,
that night through very steep, craggy and dangerous
passages to a village called Vedra, being the last of th&
King of Spain's dominions in the Duchy of Milan. W&
had a very infamous wretched lodging.
The next morning, we mounted again through strange,,
horrid, and fearful crags and tracts, abounding in pine-
trees, and only inhabited by bears, wolves, and wild goats ;.
nor could we anywhere see above a pistol-shot before us,
the horizon being terminated with rocks and mountains,,
whose tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch the skies,
and in many places pierced the clouds. Some of these
vast mountains were but one entire stone, betwixt whose
clefts now and then precipitated great cataracts of melted,
snow, and other waters, which made a terrible roaring,,
echoing from the rocks and cavities ; and these waters in.
some places breaking in the fall, wet us as if we had passed
through a mist, so as we could neither see nor hear one
another, but, trusting to our honest mules, we jogged oik
our way. The narrow bridges, in some places made only
by felling huge fir-trees, and laying them athwart from
mountain to mountain, over cataracts of stupendous depth,
are very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges,
made by cutting away the main rock ; others in steps ;
and in some places we pass between mountains that have
been broken and fallen on one another; which is very
terrible, and one had need of a sure foot and steady head,
to climb some of these precipices, besides that they are har-
bours for bears and wolves, who have sometimes assaulted
travellers. In these straits, we frequently alighted, now
freezing in the snow, and anon frying by the reverberation
of the sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when we
meet now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon
the declining of the rocks, as one would expect their
sliding down. Amongst these, inhabit a goodly sort of
people, having monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, growing
to their throats, some of which I have seen as big as an
hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chins ^
among the women, especially, and that so ponderous, as
that to ease them, many wear linen cloth bound about
their head, and coming under the chin to support it; but
quis tumidum gutiur miratur in Alpibus ? Their drinking
so much snow-water, is thought to be the cause of it ; the
164G.] JOHN EVELYN. 233
men, using more wine, are not so strumous as the women.
The truth is, they are a peculiar race of people, and
many great water-drinkers here have not these prodigious
tumours ; it runs, as we say, in the blood, and is a vice in
the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivelled, and deformed
by its drawing the skin of the face down, that nothing can
be more frightful; to this add a strange puffing dress, furs,
and that barbai'ous language, being a mixture of corrupt
High German, French, and Italian. The people are of
great stature, extremely fierce and rude, yet very honest
and trusty.
This night, through almost inaccessible heights, we came
in prospect of Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion,
which has on its summit a few huts and a chapel. Ap-
proaching this. Captain Wray's water-spaniel (a huge filthy
cur that had followed him out of England) hunted a herd
of goats down the rocks into a river made by the melting
of the snow. Arrived at our cold harbour (though the
house had a stove in every room) and, supping on cheese
and milk vrith wretched wine, we went to bed in cupboards*
so high from the floor, that we climbed them by a ladder >
we were covered with feathers, that is, we lay between two
ticks stuffed with them, and all little enough to keep one
warm. The ceilings of the rooms are strangely low for
those tall people. The house was now (in September) half
covered with snow, nor is there a tree, or a bush, growing
within many miles.
From this uncomfortable place, we prepared to hasten,
away the next morning ; but, as we were getting on our
mules, comes a huge young fellow demanding money for
a goat which he affirmed that Captain Wray's dog had
killed; expostulating the matter, and impatient of staying
in the cold, we set spurs and endeavoured to ride away,
when a multitude of people being by this time gotten
together about us, (for it being Sunday morning and
attending for the priest to say mass) they stopped our
mules, beat us off our saddles, and, disarming us of our
carbines, drew us into one of the rooms of our lodging,
and set a guard upon us. Thus, we continued prisoners
till mass was ended, and then came half a score grim .
* They have such in Wales.
234 DIARY OF [modnt sampion,
Swiss, who, taking on them to be magistrates, sate down on
the table, and condemned us to pay a pistole for the goat,
and ten more for attempting to ride away, threatening
that if we did not pay it speedily, they would send us to
prison, and keep us to a day of public justice, where, as
they perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they
pretended we had primed our carbines and would have
shot some of them, (as indeed the Captain was about ta
do) we might have had our heads cut off, as we were told
afterwards, for that amongst these rude people a very small
misdemeanour does often meet that sentence. Though
the proceedings appeared highly unjust,* on consultation
among ourselves, we thought it safer to rid ourselves out
of their hands, and the trouble we were brought into ; and
therefore we patiently laid down the money, and with fierce
countenances had our mules and arms delivered to us, and
glad we were to escape as we did. This Avas cold enter-
tainment, but our journey after was colder, the rest of the
way having been (as they told us) covered with snow since
the Creation ; no man remembered it to be without ; and
because, by the frequent snowing, the tracts are continually
filled up, we passed by several tall masts set up to guide
travellers, so as for many miles they stand in ken of one
another, like to our beacons. In some places, where there
is a cleft between two mountains, the snow fills it up,
whilst the bottom, being thawed, leaves as it were a frozen
arch of snow, and that so hard as to bear the greatest
vreight ; for as it snows often, so it perpetually freezes, of
which I was so sensible that it flawed the very skin of my
face.
Beginning now to descend a httle. Captain "Wray's horse
(that was our sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging
through a bank of loose snow, slid down a frightful precipice,
which so incensed the choleric cavalier, his master, that
he was sending a brace of bullets into the poor beast, lest
our guide should recover him, and run away Andth his
burden ; but, just as he was hfting up his carbine, we gave
such a shout, and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as
with all his might plunging through the snow, he fell from
another steep place into another bottom, near a path we
* Surely these poor people were right, and this is not expressed with
Mr. Evelyn's usual hberality.
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 235
were to pass. It was yet a good while ere we got to him,
but at last we recovered the place, and, easing him of his
charge, hauled him out of the snow, where he had been
certainly frozen in, if we had not prevented it, before night.
It was as we judged almost two miles that he had slid and
fallen, yet without any other harm than the benumbing
of his limbs for the present, but, with lusty rubbing and
chafing he began to move, and, after a little walking, per-
formed his journey well enough. All this way, affrighted
with the disaster of this horse, we trudged on foot, driving
our mules before us; sometimes we fell, sometimes we
slid, through this ocean of snow, which after October is
impassable. Towards night, we came into a larger way,
through vast woods of pines, which clothe the middle parts
of these rocks. Here, they were burning some to make
pitch and rosin, peeling the knotty branches, as we do to
make charcoal, reserving what melts from them, which
hardens into pitch. We passed several cascades of dis-
solved snow, that had made channels of formidable depth
in the crevices of the mountains, and with such a fearful
roaring as we could hear it for seven long miles. It is
from these sources that the Rhone and the Rhine, which
pass through all France and Germany, derive their originals.
Late at night, we got to a town called Briga, at the foot
of the Alps, in the Valteline. Almost every door had
nailed on the outside and next the street a bear's, wolfs,
or fox's head, and divers of them all three ; a savage kind
of sight, but, as the Alps are full of the beeists, the people
often kill them. The next morning, we returned to our
guide, and took fresh mules, and another to conduct us to
the Lake of Geneva, passing through as pleasant a country
as that we had just travelled was melancholy and trouble-
some. A strange and sudden change it seemed, for the
reverberation of the sun-beams from the mountains and
rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not above two
flight-shots in breadth, for a very great number of miles,
renders the passage excessively hot. Through such ex-
tremes we continued our journey, that goodly river, the
Rhone, gliding by us in a narrow and quiet channel almost
in the middle of this Canton, fertiUzing the country for
grass and com, which grow here in abundance.
We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty town and city, a
236 DIARY OF [siov,
bishop's seat, and the head of Yalesia. There is a castle,
and the Bishop who resides in it, has both civil and eccle-
siastical jurisdiction. Our host, as the custom of these
Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and had
been a Colonel in France ; he treated us with extreme
civility, and was so displeased at the usage we received at
Mount Sampion, that he would needs give us a letter ta
the Governor of the country, who resided at St. Maurice,
which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront.
This was a true old blade, and had been a very curious
virtuoso, as we found by a handsome collection of books,
medals, pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He showed
two heads and horns of the true Capricorn, which animal he
told us was frequently killed among the mountains ; one
branch of them was as much as I could well lift, and near
as high as my head, not much unlike the greater sort of
goat^s, save that they bent forwards, by help whereof they
climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence the
inhabitants now and then shoot them. They speak pro-
digious things of their leaping from crag to crag, and of
their sure footing, notwithstanding their being cloven-
footed, unapt (one would think) to take hold and walk so
steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The Colonel
would have given me one of these beams, but the want of
a convenience to carry it along with me, caused me to
refuse his courtesy. He told me that in the castle there
were some Roman and Christian antiquities, and he had
some inscriptions in his own garden. He invited us to
his country-house, where he said he had better pictures,
and other rarities ; but, our time being short, I could not
persuade my companions to stay and visit the places he
would have had us seen, nor the offer he made to show us
the hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild beasts.
The next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty
well-fashioned young woman, with a small ruby ring, we
parted somewhat late from our generous host.
Passing through the same pleasant valley between the
horrid mountains on either hand, like a gallery many miles
in length, we got to Martigni, where also we were well
entertained. The houses in this country are all built of
fir boards, planed within, low, and seldom above one story.
The people very clownish and rusticly clad, after a very
i646-.] JOHN EVELYN. ,237
odd fashion, for the most part in blue cloth, very whole
and warm, with little variety or distinction betwixt the
gentleman and common sort, by a law of their country
being exceedingly frugal. Add to this, their great honesty
and fidelity, though exacting enough for what they part
with. I saw not one beggar. We paid the value of
twenty shillings English, for a day's hire of one horse.
Every man goes with a sword by his side, the whole
country well-disciplined, and indeed impregnable, which
made the Romans have such ill success against them ; one
lusty Swiss at their narrow passages is sufficient to repel
a legion. It is a frequent thing here for a young trades-
man, or farmer, to leave his wife and children for twelve or
fifteen years, and seek his fortune in the wars in Spain,
France, Italy, or Germany, and then return again to
work. I look upon this country to be the safest spot of
all Europe, neither envied, nor envying ; nor are any of
them rich, nor poor; they live in great simplicity and
tranquillity ; and, though of the fourteen Cantons half be
Roman Catholics, the rest Reformed, yet they mutually
agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and are its only
security against its potent neighbours, as they themselves
are from being attacked by the greater potentates, by the
mutual jealousy of their neighbours, as either of them
would be overbalanced, should the Swiss, who are wholly
mercenary and auxiliaries, be subjected to France, or
Spain.
We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a large handsome
town and residence of the President, where justice is done.
To him, we presented our letter from Sion, and made
known the ill usage we had received for killing a wretched
goat, which so incensed him, as he sware if we would stay
he would not only help us to our money again, but most
severely punish the whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge
had by this time subsided, and glad we were to be gotten
so near France, which we reckoned as good as home. He
courteously invited us to dine with him ; but we excused
ourselves, and, returning to our inn, whilst we were eating
something before we took horse, the Governor had caused
two pages to bring us a present of two great vessels of
•covered plate full of excellent wine, in which we drank his
health, and rewarded the youths ; they were two vast
238 DIARY OP [beveretta,
bowls supported by two Swisses, handsomely wrought
after the German maimer. This civility and that of our
host at Sion, perfectly reconciled us to the highlanders ;
and so, proceeding on our journey, we passed this afternoon
through the gate which divides the Valais from the Duchy
of Savoy, into which we were now entering, and so, through
Montei, we arrived that evening at Beveretta. Being ex-
tremely weary and complaining of my head, and finding
httle accommodation in the house., I caused one of our
hostesses daughters to be removed out of her bed, and went
immediately into it whilst it was yet warm, being so heavy
with pain and drowsiness that I would not stay to have
the sheets changed ; but I shortly after paid dearly for my
impatience, falling sick of the small-pox so soon as I came
to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the tale
the good woman told me of her daughter having had an
ague, I afterwards concluded she had been newly recovered
of the small-pox. Notwithstanding this, I went with my
company, the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the
lake ; and indeed sick as I was, the weather was so serene
and bright, the water so calm, and air so temperate, that
never had travellers a sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed
the whole length of the lake, about thirty miles, the coun-
tries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording one
of the most delightful prospects in the world, the Alps
covered with snow, though at a great distance, yet show-
ing their aspiring tops. Through this lake, the river
Ehodanus passes with that velocity as not to mingle with
its exceeding deep waters, which are very clear, and breed
the most celebrated trout for largeness and goodness of
any in Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of three feet
in length sold in the market for a small price, and such
we had in the lodging where we abode, which was at the
White Cross. All this whUe, I held up tolerably, and the
next morning having a letter for Signer John Diodati, the
famous Italian minister and translator of the Holy Bible
into that language, I went to his house, and had a great
deal of discourse with that learned person. He told me
he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deal,
whilst sailing for Holland, that he had seen London, and
was exceedingly taken with the civilities he received. He
so much approved of our Church-government by Bishops,
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 239
that lie told me the French Protestants would make no
scruple to submit to it and all its pomp, had they a King
of the Reformed Religion as we had. He exceedingly
deplored the difference now between his Majesty and the
Parliament. After dinner, came one Monsieur Saladine,
with his little pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon, to visit us,
offering to carry us to the principal places of the town ;
but, being now no more able to hold up my head, I was
constrained to keep my chamber, imagining that my very
eyes would have dropped out ; and this night I felt such
a stinging about me, that I could not sleep. In the morn-
ing, I was very ill, but sending for a doctor he persuaded
me to be let blood. He was a very learned old man, and,
as he said, he had been physician to Gustavus the Great,
King of Sweden, when he passed this way into Italy, under
the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of Gustavus
Adolphus Rex Suecise, and of our famous Duke of Buck-
ingham, on his returning out of Italy. He afterwards
acknowledged that he should not have bled me, had he
suspected the small-pox, which brake out a day after.
He afterwards purged me, and applied leeches, and God
knows what this would have produced, if the spots had not
appeared, for he was thinking of blooding me again. They
now kept me warm in bed for sixteen days, tended by a
vigilant Swiss matron, whose monstrous throat, when I
sometimes awaked out of unquiet slumbers, would affright
me. After the pimples were come forth, which were not
many, I had much ease as to pain, but infinitely afflicted
with heat and noisomeness. By God's mercy, after five
weeks' keeping my chamber, I went abroad. Monsieur
Saladine and his lady sent me many refreshments. Mon-
sieur Le Chat, my physician, to excuse his letting me
blood, told me it was so burnt and vicious as it would have
proved the plague, or spotted fever, had he proceeded by
any other method. On my recovering sufficiently to go
abroad, I dined at Monsieur Saladine's, and, in the after-
noon, went across the water on the side of the lake, and
took a lodging that stood exceedingly pleasant, about half
a mile from the city for the better airing ; but I stayed
only one night, having no company there, save my pipe ;
so, the next day, I caused them to row me about the lake
as far as the great stone, which they call Neptune's Rock,
240 DIARY OF [geneva,
and on which they say sacrifice was anciently ofifered to
him. Thence, I landed at certain cherry-gardens and
pretty villas by the side of the lake, and exceedingly
pleasant. Returning, I visited their conservatories of fish ;
in which were trouts of six and seven feet long, as they
affirmed.
The Rhone, which parts the city in the midst, dips into
a cavern underground, about six miles from it, and after-
wards rises again, and runs its open course, like our Mole,
or Swallow, by Dorking, in Surrey. The next morning,
(being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian,
many of that country, especially of Lucca, his native
place, being inhabitants of Geneva, and of the Reformed
Religion.
The town, lying between Germany, France, and Italy,
those three tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabi-
tants. It is a strong well-fortified city, part of it built on
a rising ground. The houses are not despicable, but the
high pent-houses, (for I can hardly call them cloisters,
being all of wood) through which the people pass dry and
in the shade, winter and summer, exceedingly deform the
fronts of the buildings. Here are abundance of book-
sellers ; but their books are of ill impressions ; these, with
watches (of which store are made here), crystal, and excel-
lent screwed guns, are the staple commodities. All pro-
visions are good and cheap.
The town-house is fairly built of stone ; the portico has
four black marble columns ; and, on a table of the same,
tinder the city arms, a demi-eagle and cross, between
cross-keys, is a motto, " Post Tenebras Lux," and this
inscription :
Quum anno 1535 Iprofligata Romana Anti-Christr Tyrannide, abro-
gatisq ; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hie in suam
puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei beneficio reposita,
et simul pulsis fugatisq ; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam libertatem, non
sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit ; Senatus Populusq ; Genevensis
Monumentum hoc perpetuae memorise causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi
curavit, quod suam ei-ga Deum gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit.
The territories about the town are not so large as many
ordinary gentlemen have about their country-farms, for
which cause they are in continual watch, especially on the
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. £41
Savoy side ; but, in case of any siege the Swiss are at
hand, as this inscription in the same place shows, toward
the street :
D.O.M.S.
Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevse resti-
tuta, et quasi novo Jubilseo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et foris
insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum Primari Tigurini
sequo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidis-
simi socii Beraenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod
felix esse velit D. 0. M. tanti benificii monumentum consecrarunt, anno
temporis ultimi cio.io.xxxiv.
In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up
as they were removing earth in the fortifications.
A little out of the town, is a spacious field, which they
call Campus Martins ; and well it may be so termed, with
better reason, than that at Rome at present (which is no
more a field, but all built into streets), for here on every
Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise people
permit their youths to exercise arms, and shoot in guns,
and in the long and cross bows, in which they are exceed-
ingly expert, reputed to be as dexterous as any people in
the world. To encourage this, they yearly elect him who
has won most prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the
king of the long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then w ears
that weapon in his hat in gold, with a crown over it, made
fast to the hat like a brooch. In this field, is a long house
wherein their arms and furniture are kept in several
places very neatly. To this joins a hall where, at certain
times, they meet and feast ; in the glass-windows are the
arms and names of their kings [of arms] . At the side of
the field, is a very noble Pail-Mall, but it turns with an
elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a tavern, and a
trey- table, and here they ride their menaged horses. It
is also the usual place of public execution of those who
suffer for any capital crime, though committed in another
country, by which law divers fugitives have been put to
death, who have fled hither to escape punishment in their
own country. Amongst other severe punishments here,
adultery is death. Having seen this field, and played a
game at mall, I supped withMr. Saladine.
On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and
after the French mode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat
VOL. I. R
242 DIARY OF [geneva,
on. The Church Government is severely Presbyterian,
after the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set it up, but
nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of
that denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice,
a most learned young person and excellent poet, chief
Professor of the Universit}^, preached at St. Peter's, a spa-
cious Gothic fabric. This was heretofore a cathedral and
a reverend pile. It has four turrets, on one of which
stands a continual sentinel; in another, cannons are
mounted. The church is very decent within ; nor have
they at all defaced the painted windows, which are full of
pictures of saints ; nor the stalls, which are ail carved with
the history of our Blessed Saviour.
In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen
exercise in Mars' Field, where the prizes were pewter-
plates and dishes ; 'tis said that some have gained compe-
tent estates by what they have thus Avon. Here, I first
saw huge balistse, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they
formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they
were placed in frames, and had great screws to bend them,
doing execution at an incredible distance. They were
most accurate at the long-bow and musket, rarely missing
the smallest mark, I was as busy with the carbine I
brought from Brescia, as any of them. After every shot,
I found them go into a long house, and cleanse their guns
before they charged again.
On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without
the works, where were many rare tulips, anemones, and
other choice flowers. The Rhone running athwart the
town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which,
in imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg,
and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden
bridges that cross the river are several water-mills, and
shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers; between
the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very
ancient tower, said to have been built by Julius Caesar.
At the end of the other bridge is the mint, and a fair
sun-dial.
Passing again by the Town-house, I saw a large croco-
dile hanging in chains ; and against the wall of one of the
chambers, seven judges were painted without hands, except
one in the middle, who has but one hand ; I know not the
1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 243
story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well-
fumished and kept.
After dinner, Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair
structure ; in the lower part are the schools, which consist
of nine classes; and a hall above, where the students
assemble ; also a good library. They showed us a very
ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French,
and a MS. in the old Monkish character : here have the
Professors their lodgings. I also went to the Hospital,
which is very commodious ; but the Bishop's Palace is now
a prison.
This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women,
for, even at this distance from the Alps^ the gentlewomen
have something full throats, but our Captain Wray (after-
wards Sir William, eldest son of that Sir Christopher, who
had both been in arms against his Majesty for the Parlia-
ment) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine^s '
daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be pre-
vailed on to think on his journey into France, the season
now coming on extremely hot.
My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles
of gold to my host, and five to my honest doctor, who for
six weeks' attendance and the apothecary thought it so
generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he presented
me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written
with his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much
observed, and I bless God passed the journey without
inconvenience from sickness, but it was an extraordinarily
hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the
craggy ways.
5th July. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it
could not be brought back against the stream of the
Rhone. We were two days going to Lyons, passing
many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near
the town down a very steep declivity of water for a full
mile. From Lyons, we proceeded the next morning,
taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at Feurs. At
Roanne, we indulged ourselves with the best that aU France
aff'ords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful,
so as the supper we had might have satisfied a prince.
We lay in damask beds, and were treated like emperors.
The town is one of the neatest built in all France, on the
24^ DIARY OP [PARIS,
brink of the Loire ; and here we agreed with an old fisher
to row us as far as Orleans. The first night, we came aa
far as Nevers, early enough to see the town, the Cathedral
(St. Cyre), the Jesuits' College, and the Castle, a Palace
of the Duke's, with the bridge to it nobly built.
The next day, we passed by La Charite, a pretty town,
somewhat distant from the river. Here I lost my faithful
spaniel (Piccioli), who had followed me from Rome; it
seems he had been taken up by some of the Governor's;
pages, or footmen, without recovery; Avhich was a great dis-
pleasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities.
The next day, we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns
to row, of which I reckon my share came to little less thau
twenty leagues. Sometimes, we footed it through pleasant
fields and meadows ; sometimes, we shot at fowls, and other
birds ; nothing came amiss : sometimes, we played at
cards, whilst others sung, or were composing verses ; for
we had the great poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and
some other ingenious persons.
At Orleans, we abode but one day ; the next, leaving
our mad Captain behind us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced
that, after so many disasters and accidents in a tedious
peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and here I
resolved to rest myself before I went further.
It was now October, and the only time that in my whole
life I spent most idly, tempted from my more profitable
recesses ; but I soon recovered my better resolutions and
fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and Spanish
tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and
such exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in.
much reputation amongst the sober Italians.
1647, 28th January. I changed my lodging in the Place
de Monsieur de Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains ;
and thence, on the 12th February, to another in Rue
Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, which cost
me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a
course of Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure
operating upon most of the nobler processes. March 3rd,
Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the lute, though
to small perfection.
In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes ; for which
I was four times let blood.
1647.] JOHN EVELYN. 245
22nd May. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes
and plate, to the value of threescore pounds; but, through
the diligence of Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resi-
dent at the Court of France, and with whose lady and
family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly
set my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them,
obtaining of the Judge, with no small difficulty, that the
process against the thief should not concern his life, being
his first offence.
10th June. We concluded about my marriage, in order
to which I went to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then
Prince of "Wales, had his court, to desire of Dr. Earle,
then one of his chaplains (since Dean of "Westminster,
Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Sahsbury) that he
■would accompany me to Paris, which he did ; and, on
Thursday, 27th June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richard
Browne's chapel, betwixt the hours of eleven and twelve,
some few select friends being present : and this being
Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observed in this country ;
the streets were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and
«trewed with flowers,
10th September. Being called into England, to settle
my affairs after an absence of four years, I took leave of
the Prince and Queen, leaving my Wife, yet very young.
Tinder the care of an excellent lady and prudent mother.
4th October. I sealed and declared my Will, and that
morning went from Paris, taking my journey through
Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. Vallerie, where I stayed
one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some affairs,
tind for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I
amved on the 11th, and that night embarking in the
packet-boat, was by one o'clock got safe to Dover; for
which I heartily put up my thanks to God who had con-
ducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to
me through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I
arrived at London the next day at evening, being the
second of October, new style.
5th. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to
my brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court, where
I had the honour to kiss his Majesty's hand, and give him
an account of several things I had in charge, he being
now in the power of those execrable villains who not long
246 DIARY OF [LONDON,
after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Serjeant Hat-
ton's, at Thames Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to
London.
14th. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my
house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my Wife's uncle,
who had charge of it and the estate about it, during my
father-in-law's residence in France. On the 15th, I again
occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple.
9th November. My sister opened to me her marriage
with Mr. GlanviUe.
1647-8. 14th January. From London, I went to Wot-
ton, to see my young Nephew ; and thence to Baynards,
[in Ewhurst] to visit my Brother Richard.
5th February. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the Cock-
pit, after there had been none of these diversions for many
years during the war.
28th. I went with my noble friend. Sir Wilham Ducy,.
(afterwards Lord Downe) to Thistleworth, where we dined
with Sir Clepesby Crew, and afterwards to see the rare
miniatures of Peter Oliver, and rounds of plaster, and
then the curious floAvers of Mr. Bju-ill's garden, who has-
some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine
Indian hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water-
colours, by Breughel, which I bought for him.
26th April. There was a great uproar in London, that
the rebel army quartering at Whitehall, would plunder
the City, on which there was published a Proclamation
for all to stand on their guard.
4th May. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agree-
ment betwixt his Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the
Surrey men addressed the Parliament for the same ; of
which some of them were slain and murdered by Crom-
well's guards, in the new Palace Yard. I now sold the
impropriation of South Mailing, near Lewes, in Sussex, to
Mr. Kemp and Alcock, for 3000/.
30th. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord
of Norwich being at the head of them. Their first ren-
dezvous was in Broome-field next ray house at Sayea
Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to Col-
chester, where was that memorable siege.
27th June. I piu-chased the manor of Hurcott, in
Worcestershire, of my brother George, for 3,300^.
1648.] JOHN EVELYN. 247
1st July. I sate for ray picture, in which there is a
Death's head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter.
10th. News was brought me of my Lord Francis VilHers
being slain by the rebels near Kingston.
16th August. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the
wedding of my Brother, Richard, who married the daughter
and co-heir of Esquire Minn, lately deceased ; by which
he had a great estate both in land and money on the
death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and
bridegroom were, was overturned in coming home; but
no harm was done.
28th. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the cele-
brated folHes of Bartholomew Fair.
16th September. Came my lately married Brother,
Richard, and his Wife, to visit me, when I showed them
Greenwich, and her Majesty's Palace, now possessed by
the rebels.
28th. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of
Arundel, and returned to Wotton.
31st October. I went to see my manor of Preston
Beckhelvyn, and the Cliffhouse.
29th November. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and.
Lady Gerrard, christened my Niece Mary, eldest daughter
of my Brother, George Evelyn, by my Lady Cotton, his
second wife. I presented my Niece a piece of plate which
cost me 18/., and caused this inscription to be set on it :
In memoriam facti :
Anno cla.Ix.xliix. Cal. Decern, viii. Virginum castiss : Xtianorum inno-
centiss : Nept : suavis : Marise, Johan : Evelynus Avunculus et Sus-
ceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D.
Ave Maria Ghratia sis plena ; Dominus tecum.
2nd December. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott
for 3,400/. to one Mr. Bridges.
13th. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and
endeavoured to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty ;
but were surprised by the rebel army ; the Members dis-
persed, and great confusion every where in expectation of
what would be next.
17th. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers' Chapel,
one Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching.
248 DIARY OP [LONDON,
18tli. I got privately into the council of the rebel
army, at Whitehall, where I heard horrid villanies.
This was a most exceeding wet year, neither frost nor
snow all the winter for more than six days in all. Cattle
died every where of a murrain.
1648-9, 1st January. I had a lodging and some books at
my father-in-law^s house, Sayes Court.
2nd. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller, Mr.
Henshaw,whohadtwo rare pieces of StenwycVs perspective.
17th. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the
rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his
Majesty, and saw that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long
after condemned him.
19th. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger
of being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night
on another vessel then at anchor, shooting the bridge at
three quarters' ebb, for which His mercy God Almighty be
praised.
21st. Was published my translation of Liberty and Ser-
vitude, for the preface of which I was severely threatened.
22nd. I went through a course of chymistry, at Sayes
Court. Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid
tempests of wind.
The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try,
condemn, and murder our excellent King on the 30th of
this month, struck me with such horror, that I kept the
day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be present at
that execrable wickedness, receiving the sad account of it
from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit
me this afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances.
1st February. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of
Norwich, Lord Capell, &c. at their trial before the rebels'
New Court of Injustice.
15th. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich
merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare
perspective of Stenwyck ; from thence, to other virtuosos.
The painter, La Neve, has an Andromeda, but I think it
a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in
France. Webb, at the Exchange, has some rare things in
miniature of Breughel's, also Putti,* in twelve squares, that
were plundered from Sir James Palmer.
• Putti— Boys' Heads.
1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 249
At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten,
I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old
Petit, thought to be Titian's ; he had some good heads of
Palma, and fine of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an excel-
lent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyr,
with other figures ; for now they had plundered, sold, and
dispersed a world of rare paintings of the King's, and his
loyal subjects. After all. Sir William Ducy showed me
some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of Holbein's,
Sir Thomas More's head, and a whole length figure of
Edward VI., which were certainly his Majesty's; also a
picture of Queen Elizabeth ; the Lady Isabella Thynne > a
rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna ; and a
Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry VIII.,
of Holbein ; and Francis the First, rare indeed, but of
whose hand I know not.
16th. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de
Conde, my Wife being shut up with her Father and
Mother, I wrote a letter of consolation to her : and, on the
22nd, having recommended Obadiah Walker,* a learned
and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel with
Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court.
25th. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the
lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist.
26th. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn,t my kins-
man, the great traveller, and one who believed himself a
better architect than really he was ; witness the portico in
the garden at Wotton ; yet the great room at Albury is
somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but
over-built every thing.
27th. Came out of France my Wife's Uncle (Paris still
besieged) being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk pirates : I
lost, among other goods, my Wife's picture, painted by
Monsieur Bourdon.
5th March. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace-
Yard.J
ISth. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister,
* Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name, " Since an
apostate." He was Master of University College, Oxford.
+ Son of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone : see Pedigree in the History of
Surrey, vol. II., p. 150 ; but where he is by mistake stated to be brother of
Sir John.
:;: Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel.
250 DIARY OF [LONDON,
preached in my parlour, and gave ns the Blessed Sacrament,
now wholly out of use in the parish churches, on which the
Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped.
21st. I received letters from Paris from my Wife, and
from Sir Richard [Browne], with whom I kept a political
correspondence, with no small danger of being discovered.
25th. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in
these days) in St. Peter's, at PauFs Wharf, London ; and,
in the morning, the Archbishop of Armagh, that pious
person and learned man. Usher, in Lincoln's Inn Chapel.
April 2nd. To London, and inventoried my moveables
that had hitherto been dispersed for fear of plundering :
wrote into France, touching my sudden resolutions of
coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an excel-
lent discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4.,
V. 26-27.
My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins,
the great chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of
Veins and Arteries, which I purchased and caused to be
drawn out of several human bodies at Padua.
11th. Received news out of France that peace was con-
cluded ; dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster ;
and on the 13th, I sawa private dissection, atMoulins'house.
] 7 th. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was bhstered
and let blood behind the ears and forehead ; on the 23rd
began to have ease by using the fumes of camomile on
embers applied to my ears, after aU the physicians had done
their best.
29th. I saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet
in length, and much higher than I could reach.
12th May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna, in
Essex : in the afternoon, went to see Gildron's collections
of paintings, where I found Mr. Endymion Porter, of his
late Majesty's Bedchamber.
17th. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers
ladies, to see the Schools, or Colleges, of the young gentle-
women.*
19th. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had
some good paintings, especially a monk at his beads.
• Kept probably by Mrs. BaUisua Makins, the most learned woman of her
time ; she had been tutoress to the Princess Elizabeth, King Chai'les's second
daughter. There is a very rare portrait of her, by Marshall.
1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 251
30th. Un-kingship was proclaimed, and his Majesty's
statues thrown down at St. Paul's Portico, and the
Exchange.
7th June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir
Ralph, Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been
Ambassador Extraordinary in Spain, sojourned some time
with my Father-in-law, at Paris ; a most excellent person.
Also Signdra Lucretia, a Greek Lady, whom I knew in
Italy, now come over with her husband, an Enghsh gentle-
man. Also, the Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave
of them and other friends now ready to depart for France.
This night Avas a scuffle between some rebel soldiers and
gentlemen about the Temple.
10th. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's-
Inn, from Romans 5, verse* 13. I received the Blessed
-Sacrament, preparatory to my journey.
13th. I dined with my worthy friend. Sir John Owen,
newly freed from sentence of death among the Lords that
suffered. With him was one Carew, who played incompa-
rably on the Welsh harp : afterwards, I treated divers ladies
of my relations, in Spring Garden.
This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain
at the Hague, the villain who managed the trial against his
sacred Majesty.
17 th. I got a pass from the rebel, Bradshaw, then in
great power.
20th. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames,
to take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I
thought to have them engraved.*
2nd July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the resi-
dence of Sir John Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn
of WHts, when I took leave of both Sir Johns and their
ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John of Wilts
daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother
of the present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes
Court, this night.
4th. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris
with my father-in-law.
9th. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend,
Mr. Eaton, afterwards a judge, who corresponded with me
in France.
* One of these he etched himself. The plate is now at Wotton.
252 DIARY OF [GIUVE8END,
11th. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the divine
historian and poet ; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and
other friends, to take leave of me.
12th. It was about three in the afternoon, I took oars
for Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and
sister, Glanville, who there supped with me and returned ;
whence I took post immediately to Dover, where I arrived
by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that night, went
on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of eight guns ; this
being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a convoy,
having several times before been pillaged. We had a good
passage, though chased for some hours by a pirate, but he
durst not attack our frigate, and we then chased him till
he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It was
a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I car-
ried over with me my servant, Richard Hoare, an incom-
parable writer of several hands, whom I afterwards pre-
ferred in the Prerogative Office* at the return of his
Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of the Earl of
Norwich, followed us in a shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby,
who left England incognito. At the entrance of the town,
the Lieutenant-Governor, being on his horse with the
guards, let us pass courteously. I visited Sir Richard Lloyd,
an English gentleman, and walked in the church, where
the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very
fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The
citadel seems to be impregnable, and the whole country
about it to be laid under Avater by sluices for many miles.
16th. We departed for Paris, in company with that very
pleasant lady (Lady Catharine Scott) and others. In all
this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties, which
caused us to alight often out of our coach and walk sepa-
rately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, in all
suspected places.
1st August. At three in the afternoon, we came to St.
Denis, saw the rarities of the church and treasury ; and
so to Paris that evening.
The next day, came to welcome me at dinner the Lord
High Treasurer Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor,
Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary of State, Sir George Car-
♦ Where specimens of his writing in the entry of wills about this date may
now be seen.
1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 053
teret, Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having now been
absent from my Wife above a year and a half.
18th. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Majesty's
hand ; in the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went
Mrs. Barlow, the King's mistress and mother to the Duke
of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, bold, but insipid creature.
19th. I went to salute the French King and the Queen
Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned in one of the Queen's
coaches with my Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham,
Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since Lord Croftes.
7th September. Went vnth. my Wife and dear Cousin
to St. Germains, and kissed the Queen-mother's hand;
dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of
the great men of France came to see the King. The next
day, came the Prince of Conde. Returning to Paris, we
went to see the President Maison's palace, built castle-
wise, of a milk-white fine freestone ; the house not vast,
but well contrived, especially the stair-case, and the orna-
ments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry moat,
the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with
extraordinary long walks, set with elms, and a noble pros-
pect towards the forest, and on the Seine towards Paris.
Take it altogether, the meadows, walks, river, forest, corn-
ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw anything in Italy
exceed it. The iron gates are very magnificent. He has
pulled down a whole village to make room for his pleasure
about it.
12th. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of his Majes-
ties chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council
of Florence, preached.
13th. The King invited the Prince of Conde to supper
at St. Cloud ; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in
the tennis-court, where I saw a famous match betwixt
Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, and so returned
to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a
dignity I often declined.
1st October. Went with my cousin, Tuke (afterwards
Sir Samuel), to see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel;
and, after dinner, to talk with the poor ignorant and super-
stitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to Paris.
2nd. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterward Sir Wil-
Kam) and the Duke's secretary, &c., to visit me.
254 DIARY OF [PARIS,
5th. Dined with Sir George Kadcliffe, the great favourite
of the late Earl of Strafford^ formerly Lord Deputy of
Ireland, decapitated.
7th. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton,
Governess to Madame.
15th. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the
rebels, and all put to the sword, which made us very sad,
fore-running the loss of all Ireland.
21st. I went to hear Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in the
physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect
of that excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus.
30th. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a sober
English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Cha-
renton, where he was interred in a cabbage- garden, yet
with the office of our church, which was said before in our
chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried the
great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like
a fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I
returned to Paris with Sir Philip Musgrave and Sir Mar-
maduke Langdale, since Lord Langdale. — Memorandum.
This was a very sickly and mortal autumn.
5th November. I received divers letters out of England,
requiring me to come over about settling some of my
concerns.
7th. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester)
preached in our chapel on Matthew iv., verse 3.
18th. I went with my father-in-law to his audience at
the French court, wh^re next the Pope's Nuncio he was
introduced by the master of ceremonies, and, after delivery
of his credentials, as from our King, since his Father's
murder, he was most graciously received by the King of
France and his mother, with whom he liad a long audience.
This was in the Palais Cardinal.
After this, being presented to his Majesty and the
Queen Regent, I went to see the house built by the late
great Cardinal de Richelieu. The most observable thing
is the gallery, painted with the portraits of the most illus-
trious persons and signal actions in France, with innu-
merable emblems betwixt every table. In the middle of
the gallery, is a neat chapel, rarely paved in work and
devices of several sorts of marble, besides the altar-piece
and two statues of white marble, one of St. John, the
1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 255
other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the
apartments are rarely gilded and carved, with some good
modern paintings. In the presence hang three huge
branches of crystal. In the French King's bed-chamber,
is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a
chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidered
bed. The fabric of the palace is not magnificent, being
but of two stories ; but the garden is so spacious as to
contain a noble basin and fountain continually playing,
and there is a mall, with an elbow, or turning, to protract
it. So I left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in seeing a
bull-baiting, and returned home in Prince Edward's coach
with Mr. Paul, the Prince Elector's agent.
1 9th. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden,
an English Sorbonne divine, we fell into some discourse
about religion.
28th December. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed
St. Stephen's church ; the building, though Gothic, is full
of carving ; within it is beautiful, especially the choir and
winding stairs. The glass is well painted, and the tapestry
hung up this day about the choir, representing the con-
version of Constantine, was exceeding rich.
I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his
instruction about some difficulties in perspective which
were dehvered in his book.
I concluded this year in health, for which I gave solemn
thanks to Almighty God.*
29th. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's child with Sir
George Uadcliflfe in our chapel, the parents being so poor
that they had provided no gossips, so as several of us
drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of Peterborough (Dr.
Cosin) officiating : we named it Andrew, being on the eve
of that Apostle's day.
1649-50. 1st January. I began this Jubilee with the
public office in our chapel : dined at my Lady Herbert's,
wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterwards Lord Keeper.
18th. This night was the Prince of Conde and his
brother carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes.
6th February. In the evening, came Signor Alessandro,
one of the Cardinal Mazarine's musicians, and a person of
• This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but it will not
always be necessary to insert it in this woi'k.
256 DIARY OP [PARIS,
great name for his knowledge in that art, to visit my wife,
and sung before divers persons of quality in my chamber.
1st March. I went to see the masquerados, which was
very fantastic ; but nothing so quiet and solemn, as I found
it at Venice.
13th. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academy,
where divers of the French and English noblesse, especially
my Lord of Ossory, and Kichard, sons to the Marquis of
Ormond (afterwards Duke), did their exercises on horse-
back in noble equipage, before a world of spectators and
great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation.
25th April. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace
so called, built by Francis the First. It is observable only
for its open manner of architecture, being much of terraces
and galleries one over another to the very roof, and for the
materials, which are most of earth painted like Porcelain,
or China-ware, whose colours appear very fresh, but is
very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this
pottery, chimney-pieces, and columns both within and
without. Under the chapel, is a chimney in the midst of
a room parted from the Salle des Gardes. The house is
fortified with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista
towards the Bois de Boulogne and river.
30th. I went to see the collection of the famous
sculptor, Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy,
and bought some prints : and likewise visited Perelle, the
landscape graver.
3rd May. At the hospital of La Charite, I saw the ope-
ration of cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine
years old underwent the operation with most extraordinary
patience, and expressing great joy when he saw the stone
was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty
God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this
deplorable infirmity.
7 th. I went with Sir Richard Browne's lady and my
wife, together with the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Ossory
and his brother, to Vamber, a place near the city famous
for butter; when, coming homewards, being on foot, a
quarrel arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden,
who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil lan-
guage ; on which our young gallants struck the fellow on
the pate, and bid him ask pardon, which he did with much
1650.] JOHN EVELYN. 257
submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone far
before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming
with guns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed,
flinging stones ; on which, we turned and were forced to
engage, and with our swords, stones, and the help of our
servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for near
a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where
we were besieged, and at length forced to submit to be
prisoners. Lord Hatton, with some others, were taken
prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under
three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's master's
house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St.
Germain, one of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du
Pari ement, and a canon of Notre Dame. Several of us
were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris,
caused the bailifl* of St. Germain to come with his guard
and rescue us. Immediately afterwards, came Monsieur
St. Germain himself, in great wrath on hearing that his
housekeeper was assaulted ; but, when he saw the King's
officers, the gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty's
Resident, and understood the occasion, he was ashamed
of the accident, requesting the fellow's pardon, and desir-
ing the ladies to accept their submission and a supper at
his house. It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to Paris,
guarded by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under
that name, and well known in England for his extrava-
gances), together with the scholars of two academies, who
came forth to assist and meet us on horseback, and would
fain have alarmed the town we received the afiront from ;
which, with much ado, we prevented.
12th. Complaint being come to the Queen and Court
of France of the affront we had received, the President
was ordered to ask pardon of Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's
Resident, and the fellow to make submission, and be dis-
missed. There came along with him the President de
Thou, son of the great Thuanus [the historian] , and so all
was composed. But I have often heard that gallant
gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that in all
the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land, (in the most
desperate of both which he had often been) he believed he
was never in so much danger as when these people rose
against us. He used to call it the bataille de Vambre, and
VOL. I. s
25S DIARY OF [PARIS*
remember it with a great deal of mirth as an adventure,
en cavalier.
24th. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a
running at the ring, where were many brave horses,
gallants, and ladies, my Lord Stanhope entertaining us with
a collation.
12th June. Being Trinity-Sunday, the Dean of Peter-
borough preached ; after which, there was an ordination of
two divines, Durell and Brevent (the one was afterwards
Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very learned
persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great
gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring
the weight and dignity of their function, especially now in
a time of the poor Church of England's affliction. He
magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object,
viz., the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God ;
producing many human instances of the transitoriness and
vanity of aU other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the
Roman conquerors made, none was comparable to that of
our Blessed Saviour's, when he led captivity captive, and
gave gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by
which his faithful and painful ministers triumphed over
Satan as oft as they reduced a sinner from the error of
his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They
were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the
altar, the Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so
were made both Deacons and Priests at the same time, in
regard to the necessity of the times, there being so few
Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a
failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the
Communion. This was all performed in Sir Richard
Browne's chapel, at Paris.
13th. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was
afterwards made a knight by the French King for his art.
He engraved my picture in copper. At a future time,
he presented me with my own picture,* done all with his
pen ; an extraordinary curiosity.
21st. I went to see the Samaritan, or Pump, at the end
of the Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising
• Also those of his Lady and Sir R. Browne, most beautifully executed,
which are at Wotton.
1650.] JOHN EVELYN. 259
no great matter, is, besides the macliine, furnished with
innumerable rarities both of art and nature; especially
the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, growing out
of the very rock, that I have seen ; also great pieces of
crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals
and marcasites, with two great conchas, which the OAvner
told us cost him 200 crowns at Amsterdam. He showed us
many landscapes and prospects, very rarely painted in
miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers anti-
quities and relievos of Rome ; above all, that of the inside
of the Amphitheatre of Titus, incomparably drawn by
Monsieur St. Clere * himself; two boys and three skele-
tons, moulded by Flamingo ; a book of statues, with the
pen made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which
one may discover many errors in the taille-douce of Perrier,
who has added divers conceits of his own that are not in
the originals. He has likewise an infinite collection of
taille-douces, richly bound in morocco.
He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have
entertained a prince, with pictures of the greatest masters,
especially a Venus of Perino del Vaga ; the Putti carved
in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of por-
celain, and many designed by Raphael ; some paintings of
Poussin, and Fioravanti ; antiques in brass ; the looking-
glass and stands rarely carved. In a word, all was great,,
choice and magnificent, and not to be passed by as I had
often done, without the least suspicion that there were
such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future-
visit, he showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn
through the battlements of the arches of Pont Neuf, into
a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so that the coaches:
and horses thundered over our heads.
27th. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife and
other friends, took horse for England, paying the messager
eight pistoles for me and my servant to Calais, setting out:
with seventeen in company well-armed, some Portuguese,.
Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains and officers.;
We came the first night to Beaumont ; next day, to Beau-
vais, and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached
Abbeville ; next, dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met
• This was the name of tlie owner.
S 2
260 DIARY OF [LONDON,
a company on foot (being now within the inroads of the
parties which dangerously infest this day's journey from
St. Omers and the frontiers) which we drew very near
to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly
were ordered and led by a captain of our train ; but, as
we were on the speed, they called out, and proved to be
Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among them
armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne.
The next day, we marched in good order, the passage
being now exceeding dangerous, and got to Calais, by a
little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it
made the skin peel off.
I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about
three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat ;
hearing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had
security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind
in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman
would have us to the Mayor to be searched, but tlie gen-
tleman being in bed, we were dismissed.
Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to
ride post, so that afternoon oiir trunks were visited.
The next morning by four, we set out for Canterbury,
where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott, whom that
very day twelve months before I met at sea going for
France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far
off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend.
We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and
so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the
next morning.
5th July. I supped in the city with my Lady Cathe-
rine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois', where was a gentlewoman
called Everard, who was a very great chymist.
Sunday 7th. In the afternoon, having a mind to see
what was doing among the Rebels, then in full possession
at Whitehall, I went thither and found one at exercise in
the chapel, after their way ; thence, to St. James's, where
another was preaching in the court abroad.
17th. I went to London to obtain a pass,* intending
but a short stay in England.
* As follows : " These are to will and require you to permit and suffer the
bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and
other necessaries, unto any port of France, without any your lets or moles-
1C50.] JOHN EVELYN. ^61
25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Ro-
bert Cook and my sister Glanville ; the country was now
much molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen's
horses for the service of the State, as then called.
4th August. I heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and, in
the afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full
of novices and novelties.
Gth. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me
an excellent copy of Titian.
12th. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and
so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the
soldiers, and having only an antiquated pass, with some
fortunate dexterity I got cleeir of them, though not with-
out extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one
with success, it being so difficult to procure one of the
Rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would
do. At Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as
authentic as the hand and seal of Bradshawe, himself, where
I had not so much as my trunk opened.
13th. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the
wind not favourable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an
anchor about one o'clock ; about five in the morning, we
had a long boat to carry us to land, though at a good dis-
tance ; this we willingly entered, because two vessels were
chasing us ; but, being now almost at the harbour's mouth,
through inadvertency there brake in upon us two such
heavy seas, as had almost sunk the boat, I being near the
middle up in water. Our steersman, it seems, apprehen-
sive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea and
trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put
her into the pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to
Calais, though wet.
tations, of which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your sufficient
warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650.
" Signed m the Name and by Order of the Council of State,
appointed by authority of Parliament,
" Jo. Bradshawe, President.
' «' To all Customers, Comptrollers, and Searchers, and
all otlier oflScers of the Ports, or Customs."
Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing, « The
hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[les8ed] M[emory]."
Endorsed by Evelyn, « The Pass from the Council of State, 1650."
262 DIARY OF [PARIS,
Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris
being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish fron-
tiers.
16th. The Regiment of Picardj; consisting of about
1400 horse and foot (amongst them was a captain whom I
knew), being come to town, I took horses for myself and
servant, and marched under their protection to Boulogne.
It was a miserable spectacle to see how these tattered sol-
diers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn,
cattle, and whatever came in their way ; but they had such
ill pay, that they were ready themselves to starve.
As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the
guards doubled, and everybody running with their move-
ables to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was within
■five leagues of them ; so miserably exposed was even this
part of France at this time.
The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months
only.
1st September. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner;
Paris, and indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives.
Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which
the Popish midwife had baptized.
October 15th. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterwards Lord
Treasurer) and Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five
louis, to be spent on a treat ; they shot so exact, that it was
a drawn match.
November 1st. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going
on his journey towards Italy ; also visited my Lord Hatton,
Comptroller of his Majesty^s Household, the Countess of
Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and Mrs. Gard-
ner, one of the Queen's Maids of Honour.
6th. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom
was set upon in the street before our house, and received
two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who was carried
off to the Charite Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England
on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my
friends.
16th. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's
Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, con-
sisting of twenty -four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol,
being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers at
St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patroness of Musicians.
1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 263
News arrived of the death of the Princess of Orange of
the small pox.
14th December. I went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose
lodging was an impostor that had like to have imposed
upon us a pretended secret of multiplying gold ; it is cer-
tain he had hved some time in Paris in extraordinary
splendour, but I found him to be an egregious cheat.
22nd. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me.
31st. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection
the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this
year to 7,015 livres, near £600 sterling.
1650-1. 1st January. I wrote to my brother at Wotton,
about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer,
Mr. Wainsford called on me : he had long been Consul at
Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those coun-
tries, the Arabs especially.
27th. Ihadletters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grand-
mother-in-law ; she had a most tender care of me during
my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity
and piety.
29th. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing
the mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Or-
mond and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this
day at chapel.
9th February. Cardinal Mazarine was proscribed by
AjT^t du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris.
23rd. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent
that has a fair cloister painted with the lives of Hermits ;
a glorious altar now erecting in the chapel; the garden
on the rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard and
a delicate prospect toward the city.
24th. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous
beast, much like the camel, but larger. There was also
dancing on the rope ; but, above all, surprising to those
v«rho were ignorant of the address, was the water-spouter,*
who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his
mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters.
For a piece of money, he discovered the secret to me. I
-waited on Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chadlot, who,
being an excellent chymist, showed me his laboratory, and
♦Tloriand Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England. Pre-
fixed to an Account of bis exploits, is a woodcut of him.
264 DIARY OP [PARIS,
rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both phy-
sician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the
names of his drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with
the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He
showed me as a rarity some ^ of antimony:* he had
cured Monsieur Senatan of a desperate sickness, for which
there was building a monumental altar that was to cost
£1500.
11th March. I went to the Chatelet, or prison, where
a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to
him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he
was charged, which was thus : they first bound his wrist
with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to an
iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the
floor, and then his feet with another cable, fastened about
five feet farther than his utmost length to another ring on
the floor of the room. Thus suspended, and yet lying but
aslant, they slid a horse of wood imder the rope which
bound his feet which so exceedingly stifi'ened it, as severed
the fellow^s joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at
length in an extraordinary manner, he having only a pair
of linen drawers on his naked body. Then, they questioned
him of a robbery (the Lieutenant being present, and a
clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher
horse under the rope, to increase the torture and exten-
sion. In this agony, confessing nothing, the executioner
Avith a horn (just such as they drench horses with) stuck
the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quantity of
two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which
so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and
afi'rightcd any one to see it ; for all this, he denied all that
was charged to him. They then let him down, and carried
him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, being now
to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I
know not ; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly
averred him to be the man, and the fellow's suspicious
pale looks, before he knew he should be racked, betrayed
some guilt ; the Lieutenant was also of that opinion, and
told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young
man) he would conquer the torture ; and so it seems they
* Qu. Some preparation of it, since perfected by Dr. James, whosejnamo
it now bears.
1C51.] JOHN EVELYN. 265
could not hang him, but did use in such cases, where the
evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the galleys,
which is as bad as death.
There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spec-
tacle was so uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the
sight of another. It represented yet to me, the intolerable
suflferings which our Blessed Saviour must needs undergo
when his body was hanging with all its weight upon the
nails on the cross.
20th. I went this night with my wife to a ball at the
Marquis de Crevecoeur's, where were divers Princes, Dukes,
and great persons ; but what appeared to me very mean
was, that it began with a puppet-play.
6th May. I attended the Ambassador to a masque at
Court, where the French King in person danced five
entries : but being engaged in discourse and better enter-
tained with one of the Queen-Regent^s Secretaries, I soon
left the entertainment.
11th. To the Palace Cardinal, where the Master of the
Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque, or opera.
The first scene represented a chariot of singers composed
of the rarest voices that could be procured, representing
Cornaro * and Temperance ; this was overthrown by
Bacchus and his Revellers ; the rest consisted of several
entries and pageants of excess, by all the Elements. A
masque representing fire was admirable ; then came a
Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a heaven,
whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was
the great persons performing in it, the French King, his
brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the
Court, the King performing to the admiration of all. The
music was twenty-nine violins, vested a V antique, but the
habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious.
23rd. I went to take leave of the Ambassadors for
Spain, which were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir
Edward Hyde ; and, as I returned, I visited Mr. Morine'sf
garden, and his other rarities, especially corals, minerals,
stones, and natural curiosities; crabs of theRedSea,the body
no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the two
* The famous Venetian writer on Temperance,
\ See page 65.
26S DIARY OF [PARIS,
legs, or claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of
shells, at least 1000 sorts, which furnished a cabinet of
great price; and had a very curious collection of scara-
bees, and insects, of which he was compiling a natural
history. He had also the pictures of his choice flowers
and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000
sorts of tulips only. He had taille-douces out of number ;
the head of the Ehinoceros bird, which was very extrava-
gant, and one butterfly resembling a perfect bird.
25th. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned
priest and famous philosopher, author of the book " De
Mundo," with whose worthy brother I was well acquainted
at Rome. I was showed a cabinet of Maroquin, or Turkey
leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and gilding,
that the workman demanded for it 800 livres.
The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of
Pentecost, perstringing those of Geneva for their irre-
verence of the Blessed Virgin.
4th June. Trinity-Sunday, I was absent from church in
the afternoon on a charitable afi'air for the Abbess of Bou-
charvant, who but for me had been abused by that chymist,
Du Menie.* Eetuming, I stept into the Grand Jesuits_,
who had this high day exposed their Cibarium, made all of
solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croy-
don, coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me,
on his return to England.
5th. I accompanied my Lord Strafibrd, and some other
noble persons, to hear Madame Lavaran sing, which she
did both in French and Italian excellently well, but her
voice was not strong.
7th. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession,
all the streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full
of images, and other rich furniture, especially that before
the Court, of a rare design and architecture. There were
abundance of excellent pictures and great vases of silver.
18th. I went to see the collection of one Monsieiu*
Poignant, which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes,
porcelain, medals, statues, relievos, paintings, taille-douces,
and antiquities, might compare with the Italian virtuosos.
* Qu. The person mentioned in page 263, as pretending to have found out
the art of multiplying gold ?
1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 267
21st. I became acquainted with Sieur William Curtius,
a very learned and judicious person of the Palatinate.
He had been scholar to Alstedius, the Encyclopedist, was
well advanced in years, and now Resident for his Majesty
at Frankfort.
2nd July. Came to see me the Eai'l of Strafford, Lord
Ossory and his Brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward
Stawell, two of my Lord Spencer's sons, and Dr. Stewart,
Dean of St. Paul's, a learned and pious man, where we
entertained the time upon several subjects, especially the
affairs of England, and the lamentable condition of our
Church. The Lord Gerrard also called to see my collection
of sieges and battles.
21st. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our
Chapel, Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, preaching.
2nd August. I went with my wife to Conflans, where
were abundance of ladies and others bathing in the river ;
the ladies had their tents spread on the water for privacy.
29th. Was kept as a solemn fast for the calamities of
our poor Church, now trampled on by the rebels. Mr.
Waller, being at St. Germaius, desired me to send him a
coach from Paris, to bring my wife's god-daughter to Paris,
to be buried by the Common Prayer.
6th September. I went with my wife to St. Germains,
to condole with Mr. Waller's loss. I carried with me and
treated at dinner that excellent and pious person the Dean
of St. Paul's, Dr. Stewart, and Sir Lewis Dives (half-
brother to the Earl of Bristol), who entertained us with
his wonderful escape out of prison in Whitehall, the very
evening before he was to have been put to death, leaping
down out of a jakes two stories high into the Thames at
high water, in the coldest of winter, and at night ; so as by
swimming he got to a boat that attended for him, though
he was guarded by six musketeers. After this, he went
about in women's habit, and then in a smaU-coal-man's,
travelling 200 miles on foot, embarked for Scotland with
some men he had raised, who coming on shore were all
surprised and imprisoned on the Marquis of Montrose's
score ; he not knowing anything of their barbarous murder
of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and
none less miraculous ; with this note, that the charging
through 1000 men armed, or whatever danger could befall
26S DIARY OP [PARIS
a man, he believed could not more confound and distract
a man's thoughts than the execution of a premeditated
escape, the passions of hope and fear being so strong.
This knight was indeed a valiant gentleman; but not a
little given to romance, when he spake of himself. I
returned to Paris, the same evening.
7th. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher
of Malmesbury, with whom I had long acquaintance.
From his window, we saw the whole equipage and glorious
cavalcade of the young French Monarch, Louis XIV.,
passing to Parliament, when first he took the kingly govern-
ment on him, now being in his 14th year, out of his
minority and the Queen Regent's pupillage. First, came
the captain of the King's Aids, at the head of 50 richly
liveried; next, the Queen-Mother's light Horse, 100,
the lieutenant being all over covered with embroidery and
ribbons, having before him four trumpets habited in black
velvet, full of lace, and casques of the same. Then, the
King's Light Horse, 200, richly habited, with four trumpets
in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before whom rid the
Count d'Olonne coronet [comet], whose belt was set with
pearl. Next went the grand Prevot's company on foot,
with the Pr^vot on horseback; after them, the Swiss in
black velvet toques, led by two gallant cavaliers habited in
scarlet-coloured satin, after their country fashion, which is
very fantastic ; he had in his cap a pennach of heron, with
a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss
boys, with halberds. Then, came the Aide des Ceremonies ;
next, the grandees of court, governors of places, and
lieutenants-general of provinces, magnificently habited and
mounted, among whom I must not forget the Chevalier
Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there,
because it is said he had never been an Academist, and
yet governed a very unruly horse, and besides his rich
suit, his Malta Cross was esteemed at 10,000 crowns.
These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop,
covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were fol-
lowed by six trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding as
many heralds in blue velvet semee with fleurs-de-lis,
caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on their heads ;
behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies;
then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, exceeding
1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 269
splendid ; behind them Count d^Harcourt, grand Ecuyer,
alone, carrying the King's sword in a scarf, which he held
up in a blue sheath studded with fleurs-de-lis ; his horse
had for reins two scarfs of black taffata.
Then, came abundance of footmen and pages of the
King, new-liveried with white and red feathers ; next, the
garde du corps and other officers ; and, lastly, appeared the
King himself on an Isabella barb, on which a housing
semee with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and
fleurs-de-lis ; the King himself, like a young Apollo, was
in a suit so covered with rich embroidery, that one could
perceive nothing of the stuff under it ; he went almost
the whole way with his hat in hand, saluting the ladies
and acclamators, who had filled the windows with their
beauty, and the air with Vive le Roi. He seemed a prince
of a grave yet sweet countenance. After the King, followed
divers great persons of the Court, exceeding splendid, also
his esquires ; masters of horse, on foot ; then, the company
of Exempts des Gardes, and six guards of Scotch. Betwixt
their files, were divers princes of the blood, dukes, and
lords ; after all these, the Queen's guard of Swiss, pages,
and footmen ; then, the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich
coach, with Monsieur the King's brother, the Duke of
Orleans, and some other lords and ladies of honour.
About the coach, marched her Exempts des Gardes ; then,
the company of the King^s Gens d'armes, well mounted,
150, with four trumpets, and as many of the Queen's;
lastly, an innumerable company of coaches full of ladies
and gallants. In this equipage, passed the monarch to the
Parliament, henceforth exercising his kingly government.
15th. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father-
in-law, to the French Court, when he had a favourable
audience of the French King and the Queen, his mother,
congratulating the one on his coming to the exercise of
his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy admi-
nistration during her late regency, desiring both to
preserve the same amity for his master, our King, as they
had hitherto done, which they both promised, with many
civil expressions and words of course upon such occasions.
We were accompanied both going and returning by the
Inti'oductor of Ambassadors and Aid of Ceremonies. I
also saw the audience of Morosini, the Ambassador of
270 DIARY OF [PARIS,
Venice, and divers other Ministers of State from German
Princes, Savoy, &c. Afterwards, I took a walk in the
King's gardens, where I observed that the mall goes the
whole square thereof next the wall, and bends with an
angle so made as to glance the wall ; the angle is of stone.
There is a basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble
fountain and high jetto. There were in it two or three
boats, in which the King now and then rows about. In
another part is a complete fort, made with bastions, graft,
half-moons, ravelins, and furnished with great guns cast
on purpose to instruct the King in fortification.
22nd. Arrived the news of the fatal battle at Worcester,
which exceedingly mortified our expectations.
28th. I was showed a collection of books and prints,
made for the Duke of York.
1st October. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin]
preached on Job xiii., verse 15, encouraging our trust in
God on all events and extremities, and for estabHshing
and comforting some ladies of great quality, who were
then to be discharged from our Queen-Mother's service,
unless they would go over to the Romish Mass.
The Dean, dining this day at our house, told me the
occasion of publishing those Offices, which among the
Puritans were wont to be called Cosin' s cozening Devo-
tions,* by way of derision. At the first coming of the
Queen into England, she and her French ladies were often
upbraiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor
set forth any hours of prayer, or breviaries, by which ladies
and courtiers, who have much spare time, might edify and
be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladies,
scandalized it seems at this, moved the matter to the
King, whereupon his Majesty presently called Bishop
White to him, and asked his thoughts of it, and whether
tliere might not be found some forms of prayer proper on
such occasions, collected out of some already approved
forms, that so the court-ladies and others (who spend
* So called by Mr. Prynne, in his brief survey of this book. The Dean was
sequestered from all his preferments by the Parliament, and went abroad to
Paris, 1643. He kept up tlie service of the Church of England in Sir Richard
Browne's chapel there, see pp. 258, 266. On the Restoration, he was made
Bishop of Durham, to which see, as well as to Peter-House, at Cambridge, of
which he had been Master, he was a most mimificent benefactor. He died
in 1671. See Biog. Brit., the new edition by Dr. Kippis.
1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 271
much time in trifling) might at least appear as devout, and
be so too, as the new-come-over French ladies, who took
occasion to reproach our want of zeal and religion. On
which, the Bishop told his Majesty that it might be done
easily, and was very necessary ; whereupon, the King com-
manded him to employ some person of the clergy to
compile such a Work, and presently the Bishop naming
Dr. Cosin, the King enjoined him to charge the Doctor in
his name to set about it immediately. This the Dean
told me he did, and three months after, bringing the book
to the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to read
it over, and make his report ; this was so well liked, that
(contrary to former custom of doing it by a chaplain) he
would needs give it an imprimatur under his own hand.
Upon this, there were at first only 200 copies printed ; nor,
said he, was there anything in the whole book of my own
composure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but
those necessary prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching
the times and seasons of prayer, all the rest being entirely
translated and collected out of an Office, published by
authority of Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, and our own
Liturgy, This I rather mention to justify that industrious
and Pious Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, as if
he had done it of his own head to introduce Popery, from
which no man was more averse, and one who in this time
of temptation and apostacy held and confirmed many to
our Church.*
29th. Came news and letters to the Queen and Sir
Richard Browne (who was the first that had intelligence
of it) of his Majesty^s miraculous escape after the fight
at Worcester ; which exceedingly rejoiced us.
7th November. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom
I had much discourse of chemical matters. I showed him
a particular way of extracting oil of sulphur, and he gave
me a certain powder with which he afiirmed that he had
fixed ? (mercury) before the late King. He advised me
to try and digest a little better, and gave me a water
* The Clergy who attended the English Court in France at this time, and
are mentioned to have oflBciated in Sir Richard Browne's Chapel were : The
Bishop of Galloway ; Dr. George Morley, afterwards Bishop of Winchester ;
Dr.- Cosin, Dean of Peterhorough, afterwards Bishop of Durham ; Dr.
Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's ; Dr. Earle ; Dr. Clare ; Dr. Wolley, no great
preacher ; Mr. Crowder ; Dr. Lloyd ; Mr. Hamilton ; Dr. Duncan.
272 DIARY OF [pAiiis,
which he said was only rain-water of the autumnal equinox,
exceedingly rectified, very volatile ; it had a taste of a
strong vitriolic, and smelt like aqua-fortis. He intended
it for a dissolvent of calx of gold ; but the truth is, Sir
Kenelm was an errant mountebank. Came news of the
gallant Earl of Derby's execution by the rebels.
14th. Dr. Clare preached on Genesis xxviii. verses 20, 21,
22, upon Jacob's vow, which he appositely applied, it
being the first Sunday his Majesty came to chapel after
his escape. I went, in the afternoon, to visit the Earl of
Norwich ; he lay at the Lord of Aubigny's.
16th. Visited Dean Stewart, who had been sick about
two days ; when going up to his lodging I found him
dead; which affected me much, as besides his particular
affection and love to me, he was of incomparable parts and
great learning, of exemplary life, and a very great loss to
the whole church. He was buried the next day with all
our church's ceremonies, many noble persons accompany-
ing the corpse.
17th. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs.
Gardner, maid of honour, lately married to that odd
person. Sir Henry Wood : but riches do many things.
To see Monsieur Febur's course of chymistry, where I
found Sir Kenelm Digby, and divers curious persons of
learning and quality. It was his first opening the course
and preliminaries, in order to operations.
1st December. I now resolved to return into England.
3rd. Sir Lewis Dives dined with us, who relating some
of his adventures, showed me divers pieces of broad gold,
which, being in his pocket in a fight, preserved his life by
receiving a musket-bullet on them, which deadened its
violence, so that it went no further; but made such a
stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions upon one
another, battering and bending several of them ; the bullet
itself was flatted, and retained on it the colour of the gold.
He assured us that of a hundred of them, which it seems
he then had in his pocket, not one escaped without some
blemish. He affirmed that his being protected by a Nea-
politan Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses
into France, contrary to the order of the Viceroy, by
assistance of some banditti, was the occasion of a difference
between those great men, and consequently of the late
1G52.] JOHN EVELYN. 073
civil war in that kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the
Prince standing on his defence at his own castle. He told
me that the second time of the Scots coming into England,
the King was six times their number, and might easily
have beaten them ; but was betrayed, as were all other
his designs and counsels, by some, even of his bed-chamber,
meaning M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose's letters
from time to time when his Majesty was asleep.
11th. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah Walker, of Uni-
versity College, with his two pupils, the sons of my worthy
friend, Henry Hyldiard, Esq.,* whom I had recommended
to his care.
21st. Came to idsit my wife, Mrs. Lane, the lady who
conveyed the King to the sea-side at his escape from
"Worcester. Mr. John Cosin, son to the Dean, debauched
by the priests, -wrote a letter to me to mediate for him
with his father. I prepared for my last journey, being
now resolved to leave France altogether.
25th. The King and Duke received the Sacrament first
by themselves, the Lords Byron and Wilmot holding the
long towel all along the altar.
26th. Came news of the death of that rebel, Ireton.
31st. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated
the Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative
of my journey, being now resolved to leave France
altogether, and to return God Almighty thanks for His
gi'acious protection of me this past year.
1651-2. 2nd January. News of my sister GlanviUe's
death in childbed, which exceedingly affected me.
I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in
enamelling. He wrought by the lamp figures in boss, of a
large size, even to the life, so that nothing could be better
moulded. He told us stories of a Genoese jeweller, who
had the great arcanum, and had made projection before
him several times. He met him at Cyprus travelling into
Egypt ; in his return from whence, he died at sea, and the
secret with him, that else he had promised to have left it
to him ; that all his effects were seized on, and dissipated
by the Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. He
also affirmed, that being in a goldsmith's shop at Amster-
dam, a person of very low stature came in, and desired
* Of East Horsley, in Sun-cy.
VOL. I. T
274 DIARY OF [cALAw,
the goldsmith to melt him a pound of lead ; which done,
he unscrewed the pommel of his sword, and, taking out of
a little box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the
crucible, poured an ingot out, which, when cold, he took
up, saying, " Sir, you will be paid for your lead in the
crucible," and so went out immediately. When he was
gone, the goldsmith found four ounces of good gold in it,
but could never set eye again on the little man, though he
sought all the city for him. Antonio asserted this with
great obtestation ; nor know I what to think of it, there
are so many impostors and people who love to tell strange
stories, as this artist did, who had been a great rover, and
spoke ten different languages.
13th. I took leave of Mr. Waller who, having been
proscribed by the rebels, had obtained of them permission
to return, was going to England.
29th. Abimdance of my French and English friends
and some Germans, came to take leave of me, and I set
out in a coach for Calais, in an exceeding hard frost which
had continued some time. We got that night to Beau-
mont ; 30th, to Beauvais j 31st, we found the ways very
deep with snow, and it was exceeding cold ; dined at Pois ;
lay at Pernee, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a
wood, wholly unfurnished, but in a little time we had
sorry beds and some provision, which they told me they
hid in the wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garri-
sons near them continually plundering what they had.
They were often infested with wolves. I cannot remember
that I ever saw more miserable creatures.
Ist Eebruary. I dined at Abbeville; 2nd, dined at
Montreuil, lay at Boulogne ; 3rd, came to Calais, by eleven
in the morning; I thought to have embarked in the
evening, but, for fear of pirates plying near the coast, I
durst not trust our small vessel, and stayed till Monday
following, when two or three lusty vessels were to depart.
I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase,
sometime before made to resign his fellowship in King's
College, Cambridge, because he would not take the Cove-
nant. He had been a soldier in Flanders, and came
miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and
some relation he had to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges
into England, and clad and provided for him, till he
1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 275
slioiild find some better condition ; and he was worthy of
it.* There came with us also Captain Griffith, Mr. Tyrell,
brother to Sir Timothy Tyrell, of Shotover (near Oxford).
At Calais, I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met
with Mr. Heath, Sir Richard Lloyd, Captain Paine, and
divers of our banished friends, of whom understanding
that the Count de la Strade, Governor of Dunkirk, was in
the town, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by
pirates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for
me in England,) as my Lord of Norwich had informed
me at Paris, I made my address to him, who frankly told
me that he had such a picture in his own bed-chamber
amongst other ladies, and how he came by it; seeming
well pleased that it was his fortune to preserve it for me,
and he generously promised to send it to any friend I had
at Dover ; I mentioned a French merchant there, and so
took my leave.f
6th. I embarked early in the packet-boat, but put my
goods in a stouter vessel. It was calm, so that we got
not to Dover till eight at night. I took horse for Canter-
bury, and lay at Rochester ; next day, to Gravesend, took
a pair of oars, and landed at Sayes Court, where I stayed
three days to refresh and look after my packet and goods,
sent by a stouter vessel. I went to visit my cousin, Richard
Fanshawe, and divers other friends.
6th March. Saw the magnificent funeral of that arch-
rebel, Ireton, carried in pomp from Somerset House to
Westminster, accompanied with divers regiments of soldiers,
horse and foot ; then, marched the mourners. General
Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament-men,
officers, and forty poor men in gowns, three led horses in
housings of black cloth, two led in black velvet, and his
charging-horse, all covered over with embroidery and gold,
on crimson velvet ; then the guidons, ensigns, four heralds,
carrying the arms of the State (as they called it), namely,
the red cross and Ireland, with the casque, wreath, sword,
spurs, &c. ; next, a chariot canopied of black velvet and
six horses, in which was the corpse ; the pall held up by
the mourners on foot ; the mace and sword, with other
marks of his charge in Ireland (where he died of the
• Mr. EveljTi did afterwards procTire him a situation.
+ The picture was afterwards sent accordingly, see p. 277.
T 2
oyg DIARY OF [deptforik,
plague), carried before in black scarfs. Thus, in a grave
pace, drums covered with cloth, soldiers reversing their
arms, they proceeded through the streets in a very solemn
manner. This Ireton was a stout rebel, and had been
very bloody to the King's party, witness his severity at
Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death those
gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George
Lisle. My cousin, E,. Fanshawe, came to visit me, and
inform me of many considerable affairs. Sir Henry Herbert
presented me with his brother, niv Lord Cherbiu'y's book,
'^De Veritate.''
9th. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for
my settlement, no more intending to go out of Englandj
but endeavour a settled life, either in this or some other
place, there being now so little appearance of any change
for the better, all being entirely in the rebels' hands, and
this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it
(belonging to my father-in-law, actually in his Majesty's
service) very much suffering for want of some friend to
rescue it out of the power of the usurpers, so as to preserve
our interest, and take some care of my other concerns ;
by the advice and endeavour of my friends, I was advised
to reside in it, and compound with the soldiers. This I
was besides authorised by his Majesty to do, and encou-
raged with a promise that what was in lease from the
Crown, if ever it pleased God to restore him, he would
secure to us in fee-farm. I had also addresses and cyphers,
to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad :
upon all which inducements, I was persuaded to settle
henceforth in England, having now run about the Morld,
most part out of my own country, near ten years. I
therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my
wife, whom as yet I had left at Paris.
14th. I went to Lewisham, where I heard an honest
sermon on 1 Cor. ii. 5 — 7, being the first Sunday I had
been at chiu'ch since my return, it being now a rare thing
to find a priest of the Church of England in a parish
pulpit, most of which were filled with Independents and
Fanatics.
15th. I saw the Diamond and Ruby launched in the
Dock at Deptford, carrying forty-eight brass cannon each ;
Cromwell and his grandees present, with great acclama-
tions.
1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 077
18th. That worthy diAdne, Mr. Owen, of Eltham, a
sequestered person, came to visit me.
19th. Invited by Lady Gerrard, I went to London, where
we had a great supper ; all the vessels, which were innu-
merable, were of porcelain, she having the most ample and
richest collection of that curiosity in England.
22nd. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton, to give
him what directions I was able about his garden, which he
was now desirous to put into some form ; but for which he
v/as to remove a mountain overgrown with huge trees and
thicket, with a moat within ten yards of the house. This
my brother immediately attempted, and that without great
cost, for more than a hundred yards south, by digging
down the mountain, and flinging it into a rapid stream : it
not only carried away the sand, &c. but filled up the moat,
and levelled that noble area, where now the garden and
fountain is.* The first occasion of my brother making
this alteration was my building the little retiring place
between the great wood eastward next the meadow, where,
some time after my father's death, I made a triangular
pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock, after my coming
out of Flanders.
29th. I heard that excellent prelate, the Primate of Ire-
land (Jacobus Lusher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on Heb. iv.
16, encouraging of penitent sinners.
5th April. My brother George brought to Sayes Court
Cromwell's Act of Oblivion to all that would submit to the
Government.
13th. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my bro-
ther George's wife, was delivered of a son.
I was moved by a letter out of France to pubHsh the
letter which some time since I sent to Dean Cosin's prose-
lyted son ; but I did not conceive it convenient, for fear of
displeasing her Majesty, the Queen.
15th. I wrote to the Dean, touching my buying his
library, which was one of the choicest collections of any
private person in England.
The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely
sent me the picture of my wife from Dunkirk (see pp. 249,
275) in a large tin case, Avithout any charge. It is of
• The foimtain still remains.
278 DIARY OF [LONDON,
Mr. Bourdon^ and is that which has the dog in it, and is to
the knees, but it has been something spoiled by washing
it ignorantly with soap-suds.
25th. I went to visit Alderman Kendrick, a fanatic Lord
Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met
with a Captain who had been thirteen times to the East
Indies.
29th. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun, so much
threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly
alarmed the whole nation that hardly any one would work^
nor stir out of their houses. So ridiculously were they
abused by knavish and ignorant star-gazfers !
We went this afternoon to see the Queen's house at
Greenwich, now given by the rebels to Bulstrode White-
lock, one of their unhappy counsellors, and keeper of pre-
tended liberties.
10th May. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miserable
creature burning, who had murdered her husband. I went
to see some 'workmanship of that admirable artist, Reeves^
famous for perspective, and turning curiosities in ivory.
29th. I went to give order about a coach to be made
against my wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern
whereof I brought out of Paris.
30th. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire that my
nephew, George, might be brought up with my young Lord,
his son, to whom I was recommending Mr. Wase. I also
inspected the manner of camletting silk and grogramsatone
Monsieur La Dorees in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel
Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, who
had been my schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's
safe landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out
of France; which he courteously granted, and did me
many other kindnesses, that was a great matter in those
days.
In the afternoon, at Charlton church, where I heard a
Rabinical sermon. Here is a fair monument in black
marble of Sir Adam Newton, who built that fair house
near it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend. Sir
Henry Newton, succeeded him.
3rd June. I received a letter from Colonel Morley to the
Magistrates and Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at her
landing, and show her all civility.
1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 279
4th. I set out to meet her now on her journey from
Paris, after she had obtained leave to come out of that city,
which had now been besieged some time by the Prince of
Conde's army in the time of the rebellion, and after she
had been now near twelve years from her own country,
that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over.
I went to Rye to meet her, where was an embargo on
occasion of the late conflict with the Holland fleet, the two
nations being now in war, and which made sailing very
unsafe.
On "WTiit Sunday, I went to the church (which is a very
fair one), and heard one of the canters, who dismissed the
assembly rudely, and without any blessing. Here, I stayed
till the 10th with no small impatience, when I walked over
to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port,
which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and
public structures, discovers it to have been formerly a con-
siderable and large city. There are to be seen vast caves
and vaults, walls and towers, ruins of monasteries and of a
sumptuous church, in which are some handsome monu-
ments, especially of the Templars, buried just in the
manner of those in the Temple at London. This place
being now all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovels and
cottages only standing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea, which
formerly rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now
forsaken it.
1 1th. About four in the afternoon, being at bowls on the
green, we discovered a vessel, which proved to be that in
which my wife was, and which got into the harbour about
eight that evening, to my no small joy. They had been
three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet, through
which they passed, taken for fishers, which was great good
fortune, there being seventeen bales of furniture and other
rich plunder, which I bless God came all safe to land,
together with my wife, and my Lady Browne, her mother,
who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed by
having been so long at sea, we set not forth towards home
till the 14th, when hearing the small-pox was very rife in
and about London, and Lady Browne having a desire to
drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them thither, and stayed
in a very sweet place, private and refreshing, and took the
waters myself tiU the 23rd, when I went to prepare for
230 DIARY OF [tunbridge,
their reception, leaving tliem for the present in their little
cottage by the Wells.
The weather being hot, and having sent my man on
before, I rode negligently under favour of the shade, till,
within three miles of Bromley, at a place called the Pro-
cession Oak, two cut-throats started out, and striking with
long staves at the horse and taking hold of the reins, threw
me down, took my sword, and hauled me into a deep
thicket, some quarter of a mile from the highway, where
they might securely rob me, as they soon did. What they
got of money, was not considerable, but they took two
rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an
onyx, and a pair of buckles set with rubies and diamonds,
which were of value, and after all bound my hands behind
me, and my feet, having before pulled off my boots ; they
then set me up against an oak, with most bloody threats
to cut my throat if I offered to cry out, or make any noise ;
for they should be within hearing, I not being the person
they looked for. I told them if they had not basely sur-
prised me they should not have had so easy a prize, and
that it would teach me never to ride near a hedge, since,
had I been in the mid-way, they durst not have adventured
on me ; at which, they cocked their pistols, and told me
they had long guns, too, and were fourteen companions. I
begged for my onyx, and told them it being engraved with
my arms would betray them ; but nothing prevailed. My
horse's bridle they slipped, and searched the saddle, which
they pulled off, but let the horse graze, and then turning
again bridled him and tied him to a tree, yet so as he
might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse was per-
haps not taken, because he was marked and cropped on
both ears, and well known on that road. Left in this
manner, grievously was I tormented with flies, ants, and
the sun, nor was my anxiety little how I should get loose
in that solitary place, where I could neither hear nor see
any creature but my poor horse and a few sheep straggling
in the copse.
After near two hours attempting, I got my hands to
turn palm to palm, having been tied back to back, and
then it was long before I could slip the cord over my wrists
to my thumb, which at last I did, and then soon unbound
my feet, and saddling my horse and roaming a while about.
1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 281
I at last perceived dust to rise, and soon after heard the
rattling of a cart, towards which I made, and, by the help
of two countrymen I got back into the highway. I rode
to Colonel Blount's, a great justiciary of the times, who
sent out hue and cry immediately. The next morning,
sore as my wrists and arms were, I went to London, and
got 500 tickets printed and dispersed by an officer of Gold-
smiths' Hall, and within two days had tidings of all I had
lost, except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and some
trifles. The rogues had pawned one of my rings for a
trifle to a goldsmith's servant, before the tickets came to
the shop, by which means they escaped ; the other ring
was bought by a victualler, who brought it to a goldsmith,
but he having seen the ticket, seized the man. I after-
wards discharged him on his protestation of innocence.
Thus, did God deliver me from these villains, and not only
so, but restored what they took, as twice before he had
graciously done, both at sea and land ; I mean when I had
been robbed by pirates, and was in danger of a consi-
derable loss at Amsterdam ; for which, and many, many
signal preservations, I am extremely obliged to give thanks
to God my Saviour.
25th. After a drought of near four months, there fell so
violent a tempest of hail, rain, wind, thunder, and light-
ning, as no man had seen the like in his age ; the hail
being in some places four or five inches about, brake all
glass about London, especially at Deptford, and more at
Greenwich.
29th. I returned to Tunbridge, and again drank the
water, till 10th July.
We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickarde at
Summer-hill, near Tunbridge (now given to that villain,
Bradshawe, who condemned the King). 'Tis situated on
an eminent hill, with a park ; but has nothing else extra-
ordinary.
4th July. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's* chapel at
Groomsbridge,t a pretty melancholy seat, well wooded and
watered. In this house was one of the French Kings X
* Clerk of the Privy Seal to King Qiarles I.
+ In the parish of Speldhurst, in Kent, four miles from Tunbridge.
J The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of Agincourt, 4 Hen. V. by
Richard Waller, then owner of this place. Hasted's Kent, voL I., p. 431.
282 DIARY OP [LONDON,
kept prisoner. The chapel was built by Mr. Packer's
father, in remembrance of King Charles the First's safe
return out of Spain.*
9th. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's,
famous once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the
noble conversation which was wont to meet there, cele-
hrzj^d by that illustrious person/ Sir Philip Sidney, who
there composed divers of his pieces. It stands in a park,
is finely watered, and was now full of company, on the
mai'riage of my old fellow collegiate, Mr. Hobert Smith,
who married my Lady Dorothy Sidney,t widow of the
Earl of Sunderland.
One of the men who robbed me was taken; I was
accordingly summoned to appear against him, and, on the
12th, was in Westminster Hall, but not being bound over,
nor willing to hang the fellow, I did not appear, coming
only to save a friend's bail; but the bill being found, he
was turned over to the Old Bailey. In the mean time, I
received a petition from the prisoner, whose father I under-
stood was an honest old farmer in Kent. He was charged
with other crimes, and condemned, but reprieved. I heard
afterwards that, had it not been for his companion, a
younger man, he would probably have killed me. He was
afterwards charged with some other crime, but, refusing to
plead, was pressed to death.
23rd. Came my old friend, Mr. Spencer, to visit me.
30th. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's
[Browne] interest of those who had bought Sayes Court.
1st August. Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a
man skilled in painting and music, and another rare
musician, called Mell. I went to see his collection of pic-
tures, especially those of Julio Romano, which surely had
been the King's, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were
also excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, and
Tintoretto. Lennier had been a domestic of Queen Eliza-
beth, and showed me her head, an intaglio in a rare
sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assured me
was exceeding like her.
• With this inscription over the door, " D. O. M. 1625. ob. felicissimum
Caroli Principis ex Hispanic reditum Sacellum hoc D. D. I. P. ; " over it_the
device of the Prince of Wales. Hasted's Kent, vol. I., p. 432.
+ Mr. Waller's Sacharissa, daughter of Philip, Earl of Leicester.
1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 2 83
24tli. My first cliild, a son, was born precisely at one
o'clock.
2nd September. Mr. Owen, the sequestered divine of
Eltham, christened my son by the name of Richard.
22nd. I went to Woodcott, where Lady Browne was
taken with a scarlet fever, and died. She was carried to
Deptford, and interred in the church near Sir Richard's
relations with all decent ceremonies, and according to the
church-office, for which I obtained permission, after it had
not been used in that church for seven years. Thus ended
an excellent and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having
been so obliging on all occasions to those who continually
frequented her house in Paris, which was not only an hos-
pital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and afflicted
countrymen, during eleven years' residence there in that
honourable situation.
25th. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the
prospect (for the house is a wretched one) and description
of Barclay's Icon Animarum.*
5th November. To London, to visit some friends, but the
insolences were so great in the streets that I could not
return till the next day.
Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables
of Veins and Arteries to the College of Physicians, pre-
tending he would not only read upon them, but celebrate
my curiosity as being the first who caused them to be com-
pleted in that manner, and with that cost ; but I was not
so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the
College during their anatomical lectures; which I did,
accordingly.
22nd. I went to London, where was proposed to me
the promoting that great work, (since accomplished by
Dr. Walton, Bishop of Chester) Biblia Polyglotta, by
Mr. Pierson, that most learned divine.
25th December. Christmas-day, no sermon any where,
• The book here referred to is in the British Museum, entitled, Joanni»
Barclaii Icon Animarum," printed at London, 1614, small 12mo. It is written
in Latin, and is dedicated to Lewis XIII, of France, for what reason does
not appear, the author speaking of himself as a subject of this country. It
mentions the necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skilful gardener
forms his trees ; the different dispositions of men, in different nations ; English,
Scotch, and Irish, &c. Cap. 2, contains a florid description of the beautiful
scenery about Greenwich ; but does not mention Dr. Mason, or his house.
284 DIARY OF [SAYKS-COURT,
no church being permitted to be open, so observed it at
home. The next day, we went to Lewisham, where an
honest divine preached.
31st. I adjusted all accompts, and rendered thanks to
Almighty God for his mercies to me the year past.
1st January, 1652-3. I set apart in preparation for the
Blessed Sacrament, which the next day Mr. Owen admi-
nistered to me and all my family in Sayes Court, preach-
ing on John, vi. 32, 33, showing the exceeding benefits
of our Blessed Saviour taking our nature upon him-. He
had christened my son and churched my wife in our own
house, as before noticed.
17th. I began to set out the oval garden at Sayes Court,
which was before a rude orchard, and all the rest one entire
field of 100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither
holly-hedge joining to the bank of the mount walk. This
was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens, walks,
groves, enclosures, and plantations there.
21st. I went to London, and sealed some of the writings
of my purchase of Sayes Court.
30th. At our own parish-church, a stranger preached.
There was now and then an honest orthodox man got into
the pulpit, and, though the present incumbent was some-
what of the Independent, yet he ordinarily preached sound
doctrine, and was a peaceable man ; which was an extra-
ordinary felicity in this age.
1st February. Old Alexander Rosse (author of " Virgil-
ius Evangelizans,^^ and many other httle books) presented
me with his book against Mr. Hobbes's " Leviathan."
19th. I planted the orchard at Sayes Court; new moon,
wind west.
22nd. Was perfected the sealing, hvery and seisin of
my purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glan-
viile, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. Offley, Co. William Glanville
(son to Serjeant Glanville, sometime Speaker of the
House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my
friends, dining with me. I had bargained for 3200/., but
I paid 3500/.
25th March. Came to see me that rare graver in taille-
douce, Monsieur llichett ; he was sent by Cardinal Maza-
rine to make a collection of pictures.
11th April. I went to take the air in Hyde Park, where
1653.] JOHN EVELYN. 2S5
every coach was made to pay a shilling, and horse sixpence,
by the sordid fellow who had purchased it of the State, as
they were called.
17th May. My servant, Hoare, who wrote those exqui-
site several hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I
suppose, by tampering with $ (mercury) about an experi-
ment in gold.
29th. I went to London, to take my last leave of my
honest friend, Mr. Barton, now dying : it was a great loss
to me and to my affairs. On the sixth of June, I attended
his funeral.
8th June. Came my brother George, Captain Evelyn,
the great traveller, Mr. Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas
Keightly, and a virtuoso, fantastical Simons,* who had the
talent of embossing so to the life.
9th. I went to visit my worthy neighbour. Sir Henry
Newton [at Charlton] , and consider the prospect, which is
doubtless for city, river, ships, meadows, hill, woods, and
all other amenities, one of the most noble in the world;
so as, had the house running water, it were a princely seat.
Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law, came to visit me, and
he presented me with a seleniscope.
19th. This day, I paid all my debts to a farthing; oh,
blessed day !
21st. My Lady Gerrard and one Esquire Knight, a very
rich gentleman, living in Northamptonshire, visited me.
23rd. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my
collections.
27th. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his
aurum potabile, with a letter showing the way of adminis-
tering it, and the stupendous cures it had done at Paris ;
but, ere it came to me, by what accident I know not, it
was all run out.
17th August. I went to visit Mr. Hyldiard, at his house
at Horsley (formerly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's t),
where met me Mr. Oughtred, the famous mathematician ;
he showed me a box, or golden case, of divers rich and
aromatic balsams, which a chymist, a scholar of his, had
sent him out of Germany.
* Thomas Simons, a strange character, but most excellent modeller after
life, and engraver of medals.
+ This is a mistake ; Mr. Hyldiard was of East Horsley, Sir Walter of
West.
236 DIARY OF
SAYES-COURT,
21st. I heard that good old man, Mr. Higham, the
parson of the parish of Wotton where I was born, and
who had baptized me, preach after his very plain way on
Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea, the
ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish.
22nd. We all went to Guildford, to rejoice at the
famous inn, the E-ed Lion, and to see the Hospital, and
the monument of Archbishop Abbot, the founder, who
lies buried in the chapel of his endowment.
28th September. At Greenwich, preached that holy
martyr. Dr. Hewer, on Psalm xc. 11, magnifying the
grace of God to penitents, and threatening the extinction
of his Gospel light for the prodigious impiety of the age.
11th October. My son, John Stansfield, was born, being
my second child, and christened by the name of my
mother's father, that name now quite extinct, being of
Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in my library at
Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I
always making use of him on these occasions, because the
parish minister durst not have officiated according to the
form and usage of the Church of England, to which I
always adhered.
25th. Mr. Owen preached in my library at Sayes Court
on Luke, xviii. 7, 8, an excellent discourse on the unjust
judge, showing why Almighty God would sometimes be
compared by such similitudes. He afterwards adminis-
tered to us all the Holy Sacrament.
28th. Went to London, to visit my Lady Gerrard, where
I saw that cursed woman called the Lady Norton, of whom
it was reported that she spit in our King's face as he went
to the scaffold. Indeed, her talk and discom-sc was like an
impudent woman.
21st November. I went to London, to speak with Sir
John Evelyn, my kinsman, about. the purchase of an
estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westeram, which afterwards
Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law. Leech.
4th December. Going this day to our church, I was
surprised to see a tradesman, a mechanic, step up ; I was
resolved yet to stay and see what he would make of it.
His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20 : " Asd Benaiah
went down also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the
time of snow ; " the purport was, that no danger was to be
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 287
thougbt difficult wlien God called for shedding of blood,
inferring that now the saints were called to destroy tem-
poral governments ; with such feculent stuff; so dangerous
a crisis were things grown to !
25th. Christmas-day. No churches, or public assembly.
I was fain to pass the devotions of that Blessed day with
my family at home.
1653-4. 20th January. Came to see me my old ac-
quaintance and the most incomparable player on the Irish
harp, Mr. Clarke,* after his travels. He was an excellent
musician, a discreet gentleman, born in Devonshire (as I
remember). Such music before or since did I never hear,
that instrument being neglected for its extraordinary dif-
ficulty; but, in my judgment, far superior to the lute itself,
or whatever speaks with strings.
25th. Died my son, J. Standsfield, of convulsion-fits ;
buried at Deptford on the east comer of the church, near
his mother's great-grandfather, and other relatives.
8th February. Ash- Wednesday. In contradiction to all
custom and decency, the usurper, Cromwell, feasted at the
Lord Mayor's, riding in triumph through the city.
14th. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb ; he
was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth
and found his tongue rough like a cat's ; a sheep also with
six legs, which made use of five of them to walk ; a goose
that had four legs, two crops, and as many vents.
29th March. That excellent man, Mr. Owen, preached
inmy Hbrary on Matt, xxviii. 6, a resurrection-sermon, and
after it we all received the Holy Communion.
6th April. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelm Digby,
Mr. Denham, and other friends, to see me.
15th. I went to London, to hear the famous Dr. Jeremy
Taylor (since Bishop of Down and Connor) at St. Gre-
gorys (near St. Paul's) on Matt. vi. 48, concerning
evangelical perfection.
5th May. I bound my lackey, Thomas Headly, appren-
tice to a carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new
clothing ; he thrived very well, and became rich.
8th. I went to Hackney, to see Lady Brook's garden,
which was one of the neatest and most celebrated in Eng-
land, the house well furnished, but a despicable building.
• See under the year 1668, November.
288 DIARY OF [wiNDson,
Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's garden ; it has large
and noble Avalks, some modern statues, a vineyard, planted
in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances ; the
banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and scats were
carved a V antique ; some good pictures in the house, espe-
cially one of Vandyke's, being a man in his shirt ; also
some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. Ducie's, who has
indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and one of
the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Thomas
Fowler's aviary, which is a poor business.
10th. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Gar-
den,* now the only place of refreshment about the town
for persons of the best quality to be exceedingly cheated
at ; Cromwell and his partisans having shut up and seized
on Spring Garden, which, till now, had been the usual
rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season.
11th. I now observed how the women began to paint
themselves, formerly a most ignominious thing, and used
only by prostitutes.
14th. There being no such thing as church- annivers-
aries in the parochial assemblies, I was forced to provide at
home for Whit Sunday.
15th. Came Sir Robert Stapylton, the translator of
" Juvenal," to visit me.
8th June. My wife and I set out in a coach and four
horses, in our way to visit relations of hers in Wiltshire,
and other parts, where Ave resolved to spend some months.
We dined at Windsor, saw the Castle and Chapel of
St. George, where they have laid our blessed Martyr, King
Charles, in the vault just before the altar. The church and
workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itself is
large in circumference ; but the rooms melancholy, and of
ancient magnificence. The keep, or mount, hath, besides
its incomparable prospect, a very profound well ; and the
terrace towards Eaton, with the park, meandering Thames,
and sweet meadows, yield one of the most delightful pros-
pects. That night, we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord
• Buckingham House (now the Royal Palace) was built on the site of these
gardens : see Dr. King, III. 73, ed. 1776 ; Malcolm's Londinium Redivivum,
IV. 263 ; but the latter afterwards, p. 327, says that the piece of ground
called the Mulberry Garden was granted by Charles II., in 1672, to Henry,
Earl of Arlington ; in that case, it would be what is now called Arlington
Street, unless it extended up to the Royal Palace.
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 289
Craven's house at Causam Caversham, now in ruins, his
goodly woods felling by the Rebels,
9th. Dined at Marlborough, which having been lately
fired, was now new built. At one end of this town, we
saw my Lord Seymour's house,* but nothing observable
jsave the Mount, to which we ascended by windings for
near half a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand.
We passed by Colonel Popham's, a noble seat, park, and
river. Thence, to Newbury, a considerable town, and
Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and castle : this
last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer.
Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphry Forster's,
built a la moderne. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat
of my Lord Pembroke, on the ascent of a hiU, flanked
with wood, and regarding the river ; and so, at night, to
Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq.,
uncle to my wife, where we made some stay. The rest of
the week we did nothing but feast and make good cheer,
to welcome my wife.
27th. We aU went to see Bath, where I bathed in the
cross bath. Amongst the rest of the idle diversions of the
town, one musician was famous for acting a changeKng,
which indeed he personated strangely.
The facciata of this cathedral is remarkable for its his-
torical carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest
in Europe. The town is entirely built of stone, but the
streets narrow, uneven, and unpleasant. Here, we trifled
and bathed, and inter-visited with the company who fre-
quent the place for health, tiU the 30 th, and then went to
Bristol, a city emulating London, not for its large extent,
but manner of building, shops, bridge, traffic, exchange,
market-place, &c. The governor showed us the castle, ojf
no great concernment. The city wholly mercantile, as
standing near the famous Severn, commodiously for Ireland,
and the Western world. Here, I first saw the manner
of refining sugar and casting it into loaves, where we had
a collation of eggs fried in the sugar farnace,t together
with excellent Spanish wine. But, what appeared most
• Now the famous inn there.
+ A kind of entertainment like that we have of eating beef-steaks drest
on the stoker's shovel, and drinking porter at the famous brewhouses in
London.
VOL. I. U
290 DIARY OP [oXFORDy
stupendous to me, was the rock of St. Vincent, a little dis-
tance from the town, the precipice whereof is equal to any-
thing of that nature I have seen in the most confragose
cataracts of the Alps, the river gliding between them at au
extraordinary depth. Here, we went searching for diamonds,
and to the Hot Wells, at its foot. There is also on the side
of this horrid Alp a very romantic seat : and so we returned
to Bath in the evening, and July 1 to Cadenham.
4th July. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr.
Pretyman, I waited back on her to London, passing by
Hungerford, a town famous for its trouts, and the next day
arrived at Deptford, which was 60 miles, in the extremity
of heat.
6th. I went early to London, and the following day met
my wife and company at Oxford, the eve of the Act.
8th. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the
schools ; and, after dinner, the Proctor opened the Act at
St. Mary's (according to custom), and the Prevaricators,
their drollery. Then, the Doctors disputed. We supped
at Wadham College.
9th. Dr. French preached at St. Mary's, on Matt. xii.
42, advising the students the search after true wisdom,
not to be had in the books of philosophers, but in the
Scriptures alone. In the afternoon, the famous Inde-
pendent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now
Cromwell's Vice-ChanceUor. We dined with Dr. Ward,
Mathematical Professor (since Bishop of Sarum), and at
■night supped in Bahol College HaU, where I had once
been student and fellow-commoner, and where they made
me extraordinarily welcome.
10th. On Monday, I went again to the schools, to hear
the several faculties, and in the afternoon tarried out the
whole Act in St. Mary's, the long speeches of the Proctors,
the Vice-Chancellor, the several Professors, creation of
Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, &c., those ancient ceremo-
nies and institution being as yet not wholly abolished.
Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his
Act incomparably well, concluded it with an excellent
oration, abating his Presbyterian animosities, which he
withheld, not even against that learned and pious divine.
Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech of
the Vice-Chancellor, there being but four in theology, and
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 291
three in medicine, which was thought a considerable
matter, the times considered. I dined at one Monsieur
Fiat's, a student of Exeter College, and supped at a mag-
nificent entertainment at Wadham Hall, invited by my
dear and excellent friend. Dr. Wilkins, then Warden
(after. Bishop of Chester) .
11th. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at,
though invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we had
music, voices, and theorbos, performed by some ingenious
scholars. After dinner, I visited that miracle of a youth,
Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to the Bishop of Ely.
Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln), bibliothecarius
of the Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He
showed us the rarities of that most famous place, manu-
scripts, medals, and other curiosities. Amongst the MSS.
an old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to
be baptized by Philip, is called the Gelding : " and Philip
and the Gelding went down into the water,^' &c. The
original Acts of the Council of Basil 900 years since, with
the bulla, or leaden affix, which has a silken cord passing
through every parchment; a MS. of Venerable Bede of
800 years' antiquity ; the old Ritual secundum usum Sarum,
exceeding voluminous; then, among the nicer curiosities,
the Proverbs of Solomon, written in French by a lady,*
every chapter of a several character, or hand, the most
exquisite imaginable; an hieroglyphical table, or carta,
folded up like a map ; I suppose it painted on asses' hide,
extremely rare ; but, what is most illustrious, there were no
less than 1000 MSS., in nineteen languages, especially
oriental, furnishing that new part of the library built by
Archbishop Laud, from a design of Sir Kenelm Digby and
the Earl of Pembroke. In the closet of the tower, they
show some Indian weapons, urns, lamps, &c., but the
rarest is the whole Alcoran, written on one large sheet of
calico, made up in a priest's vesture, or cope, after the
Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely written, as no
printed letter comes near it ; also, a roll of magical charms,
divers talismans, and some medals.
Then, I led my wife into the Convocation-House, finely
» Mrs. Esther Inglish, married to Bartholomew Kello, rector of Willing-
hall Spain, in Essex. See an account of her airious penmanship, in Massey'a
Origin and Progress of Letters.
u2
292 DIARY OF [oxford,
wainscoted; the Divinity School and Gothic carved roof;
the Physic, or Anatomy School, adorned with some rarities
of natural things ; but nothing extraordinary save the skin
of a jackal, a rarely-coloured jacatoo, or prodigious large
parrot, two humming birds, not much bigger than our
humble-bee, wliich indeed I had not seen before, that I
remember.
1 2th. We went to St. John's, saw the library and the
two skeletons, which are finely cleansed and put together ;
observable is here also the store of mathematical instru-
ments, chiefly given by the late Archbishop Laud, who
built here a handsome quadrangle.
Thence, we went to New College, where the chapel was
in its ancient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulosity of
the times. Thence, to Christ's Church, in whose library
was showed us an Office of Henry VIII., the writing,
miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal, if not surpassing,
any curiosity I had seen of that kind ; it was given by
their founder. Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows of
the cathedral (famous in my time) I found much abused.
The ample hall and column, that spreads its capital to
sustain the roof as one goes up the stairs, is very
remarkable.
Next, we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw
the library and chapel, which was likewise in pontifical
order, the altar only I think turned tablevdse, and there
was still the double organ, which abominations (as now
esteemed) were almost universally demoHshed; Mr. Gibbon,
that famous musician, giving us a taste of his skill and
talents on that instrument.
Hence, to the Physic Garden, where the sensitive plant
was showed us for a great wonder. There grew canes,
olive-trees, rhubarb, but no extraordinary curiosities, besides
very good frmt, which, when the ladies had tasted, we
returned in our coach to our lodgings.
13th. We all dined at that most obliging and universally-
curious Dr. Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the
first who showed me the transparent apiaries, which he
had built hke castles and palaces, and so ordered them one
upon another, as to take the honey without destroying the
bees. These were adorned with a variety of dials, httle
statues, vanes, &c. ; and, he was so abundantly civil, find-
1C54.] JOHN EVELYN. 29-3
ing me pleased with them, to present me with, one of the
hives which he had empty, and which I afterwards had in
my garden at Sayes Court, where it continued many years,
and which his Majesty came on purpose to see and con-
template with much satisfaction. He had also contrived a
hollow statue, which gave a voice and uttered words by a
long concealed pipe that went to its mouth,* whilst one
speaks through it at a good distance. He had, above in
his lodgings and gallery, variety of shadows, dials, perspec-
tives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magical
curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous mag-
net, conic, and other sections, a balance on a demi-circle,
most of them of his own, and that prodigious young scholar
Mr. Christopher Wren, who presented me with a piece of
white marble, which he had stained with a lively red, very
deep, as beautiful as if it had been natural.
Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it,
dining at Farringdon, a town which had been newly fired
during the wars ; and, passing near the seat of Sir Walter
Pye,t we came to Cadenham.
16th. We went to another uncle and relative of my
wife's. Sir John Glanville, a famous lawyer, formerly
Speaker of the House of Commons ; his seat is at Broad-
Hinton, where he now lived, but in the Gatehouse, his
very fair dwelling-house having been burnt by his own
hands, to prevent the rebels making a garrison of it. Here,
my cousin William Glanville's eldest son showed me such
a lock for a door, that for its filing and rare contrivances
was a master-piece, yet made by a country-blacksmith.
But, we have seen watches made by another Avith as much
curiosity as the best of that profession can brag of; and,
not many years after, there was nothing more frequent
than all sorts of iron-work more exquisitely wrought and
polished than in any part of Europe, so as a door-lock of a
tolerable price was esteemed a curiosity even among foreign
princes.
Went back to Cadenham, and, on the 19th, to Sir Edward
Baynton's at Spie Park, a place capable of being made a
noble'seat ; but the humorous old Knight has built a long
* This reminds us of the speaking figures so long exhibited in Spring
Gardens, and in Leicester Fields, many years ago.
+ Ancestor of the Poet-Laureate.
294, DIARY OF [SALISBURY,
single house of two low stories on the precipice of an in-
comparable prospect, and landing on a bowling-green in
the park. The house is like a long barn, and has not a
window on the prospect side. After dinner, they went to
bowls, and, in the meantime, our coachmen were made so
exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great
dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the Knight, that
all gentlemen's servants be so treated ; but the custom is
barbarous, and much unbecoming a Knight, still less a
Christian.
20th. We proceeded to Salisbury ; the cathedral I take
to be the completest piece of Gothic work in Europe,
taken in all its uniformity. The pillars, reputed to be
cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of the quarry ; most
observable are those in the chapter-house. There are
some remarkable monuments, particularly the ancient
Bishops, founders of the Church, Knights Templars, the
Marquis of Hertford's, the cloisters of the palace and
garden, and the great mural dial.
In the afternoon, we went to Wilton, a fine house of the
Earl of Pembroke, in which the most observable are the
dining-room in the modem-built part towards the garden,
richly gilded and painted with story, by De Creete j also,
some other apartments, as that of hunting-landscapes, by
Pierce ; some magnificent chimney-pieces, after the best
French manner ; a pair of artificial winding-stairs, of stone,
and divers rare pictures. The garden, heretofore esteemed
the noblest in England, is a large handsome plain, with a
grotto and water-works, which might be made much more
pleasant, were the river that passes through cleansed and
raised ; for all is efiected by a mere force. It has a flower
garden, not inelegant. But, after all, that which renders
the seat delightful is, its being so near the downs and noble
plains about the country contiguous to it. The stables
are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of
the walks of lime-trees, -with the court and fountain of the
stables adorned with the Caesar's heads.
We returned this evening by the plain, and 14-niile
race, where out of my lord's hare-warren we were enter-
tained with a long course of a hare for near two mUes in
sight. Near this, is a pergola, or stand, built to view the
spoyts: and so we came to Salisbury, and saw the most
1C54.] JOHN EVELYN. . 295
considerable parts of tlie city. The market-place, with
most of the streets, are watered by a quick current and
pure stream running through the middle of them, but are
negligently kept, when with small charge they might be
purged and rendered infinitely agreeable, and this made
one of the sweetest towns, but now the common buildings
are despicable, and the streets dirty.
22nd. We departed and dined at a farm of my Uncle
Hungerford^s, called Darneford Magna, situate in a valley
under the plain, most sweetly watered, aboimding in trouts
catched by spear in the night, when they come attracted
by a light set in the stern of a boat.
After dinner, continuing our return, we passed over the
goodly plain, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for
evenness, extent, verdure, and innumerable flocks, to be
one of the most dehghtful prospects in nature, and re-
minded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of
in romances.
Now we were arrived at Stone-henge, indeed a stupend-
ous monument, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how
so many and huge pillars of stone should have been
brought together, some erect, others transverse on the tops
of them, in a circular area as rudely representing a cloister
or heathen and more natural temple, is wonderful. The
stone is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a
hammer could not break a fragment ; which hardness I
impute to their so long exposure. To number them ex-
actly is very difficult, they lie in such variety of postures
and confusion, though they seemed not to exceed 100 ;
we counted only 95. As to their being brought thither,
there being no navigable river near, is by some admired ;
but for the stone, there seems to be the same kind about
20 miles distant, some of which appear above ground.
About the same hills, are divers mounts raised, conceived
to be ancient intrenchments, or places of burial, after bloody
fights. We now went by the Devizes, a reasonable large
town, and came late to Cadenham.
27th. To the hunting of a sorel deer, and had excellent
chace for four or five hours, but the venison little worth.
29th. I went to Langford, to see my cousin, Stephens.
I also saw Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John
Pretyman, grandfather to my wife, and sold by her uncle ;
, DIARY OP [GLOUCESTER,
both the seat and house very honourable and well-built,
much after the modern fashion.
31st. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had been
long and nobly entertained, we went a compass into Leices-
tershire, where dwelt another relation of my wife^s; for
I indeed made these excursions to show her the most con-
siderable parts of her native country, who, from her child-
hood, had lived altogether in France, as well as for my own
curiosity and information.
About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have
a prospect from woody hills into a most goodly vale and
country. Gloucester is a handsome city, considerable for
the church and monuments. The Minster is indeed a
noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being through
a passage of twenty-five yards, in a many-angled cloister,
and was, I suppose, either to show the skill of the architect,
or> some invention of a cunning priest, who, standing un-
seen in a recess in the middle of the chapel, might hear
whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the
choir, in which lies buried King Stephen* under a monu-
ment of Irish oak, not ill carved considering the age. The
new library is a noble though a private design. I was
Ukewise pleased with the Severn gliding so sweetly by it.
The Duke's house, the castle works, are now almost quite
dismantled ; nor yet without sad thoughts did I see the
town, considering how fatal the siege had been a few years,
before to our good King.
1st August. We set out towards Worcester, by a way
thick planted with cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy
Wells, trickhng out of a valley through a steep decUvity
towards the foot of the great Malvern Hills ; they are said
to heal many infirmities, as king's evil, leprosy, sore
eyes, &c. Ascending a great height above them to the
trench dividing England from South Wales, we had the
prospect of aU Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Mon-
mouth, Worcester, Gloucester, Shropshire, Warwick, Derby
shires, and many more. We could discern Tewkesbury,,
Kings-road, towards Bristol, &c. ; so as I esteem it one of
the goodliest vistas in England.
2nd. This evening, we arrived at Worcester, the Judges
* King Stephen was buried at Feversham. The effigy here alluded to is.
that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy.
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 297
of Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the
town the next day, we found the cathedral much ruined
by the late wars, otherwise a noble structure. The town
is neatly paved and very clean, the goodly river Severn
running by it, and standing in a most fertile country.
3rd. We passed next through Warwick, and saw the cas-
tle, the dwelling-house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture
noble. It is built on an eminent rock which gives prospect
into a most goodly green, a woody and plentifully watered
country ; the river running so delightfully under it, that
it may pass for one of the most surprising seats one should
meet with. The gardens are prettily disposed ; but might
be much improved. Here they show us Sir Guy's great
two-handed sword, staff, horse-arms, pot, and other relics
of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a fair old town,
and hath one church full of ancient monuments.
Having viewed these, I went to visit my worthy friend.
Sir H. Puckering, at the Abbey, and, though a melancholy
old seat, yet in a rich soil.
Hence, to Sir Guy's grot, where they say he did his
penances, and died. It is a squalid den made in the rock,
crowned yet with venerable oaks and looking on a goodly
stream, so as, were it improved as it might be, it were
capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place.
Near this, we were showed his chapel and gigantic statue
hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are likewise
divers other caves cut, and some very capacious.
The next place to Coventry. The Cross is remarkable
for Gothic work and rich gilding, comparable to any I
had ever seen, except that of Cheapside in London, now
demolished. This city has many handsome churches, a
beautiful wall, a fair free-school and library to it; the
streets fuU of great shops, clean and well-paved. At going
forth the gate, they show us the bone, or rib, of a wild
boar, said to have been kiUed by Sir Guy, but which I take
to be the chine of a whale.
4th. Hence, riding through a considerable part of Lei-
cestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant countrj'^, we came
late in the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my wife's
uncle [not named] .*
* Probably Hungerford (seep. 289). Sir Edward Hungerford, K.B., pre-
sented to the vicarage of Horninghold, in 1676.
298 DIARY OF [oAKHAM,
7tli. Went to Uppingham, tlie sliire-town of Rutland,
pretty and well-built of stone, which is a rarity in that
part of England, where most of the rural parishes are but
of mud, and the people living as wretchedly as in the
most impoverished parts of France, which they much
resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially
Leicestershire) much in common; the gentry free drinkers.
9th. To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and
pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney-flues
like so many smiths' forges ; however, famous for the tomb
of the tyrant, Richard the Third, which is now converted
to a cistern, at which (I think) cattle drink. Also, here
in one of the churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal
Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but
poor Hospital, near which a wretch has made him a house
out of the ruins of a stately church. Saw the rains of an
old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertained
at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect
to meet with so far North, especially very good melons.
We returned to my uncle's.
14th. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding
through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous
for the tenure of the Barons (Eerrers), who hold it by
taking off a shoe from every nobleman's horse that passes
with his lord through the street, unless redeemed Avith a
certain piece of money. In token of this, are several gilded
shoes nailed up on the castle-gate,* which seems to have
been large and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very
sweet seat and park of the old Lady Camden's. Next, by
Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of Buckingham,t
and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in Eng-
land, situate on the brow of a hill, built a la moderne near
a park walled in, and a fine wood at the descent.
Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belong-
ing to Mr. Heath, son to the late Lord Chief Justice of
that name. Here, after dinner, parting with the company
that conducted us thus far, I passed that evening by
Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a
• A shoe was paid for by the Duke of York, in 1788.
+ Called Burleigh-on-the-Hill, for distinction from the Earl of Exeter's,
near Stamford. The Duke of Buckingham sold it to the family of Finch, now
Earl of Winchelaea and Nottingham, to whom it belongs.
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. £99
long ridge of hills, whicli affords a stately prospect, and
is famous for its strenuous resistance in the late civil
war.
Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison.
Next, by Wharton House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth,
a handsome seat : then, by Home, a noble place belonging
to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous river
Trent, which divides the South from the North of Eng-
land ; and so lay that night at Nottingham.
This whole toAvn and county seems to be but one
entire rock, as it were, an exceeding pleasant shire, full of
gentry. Here, I observed divers to live in the rocks and
caves, much after the manner as about Tours, in France.*
The church is well built on an eminence ; there is a fair
house of the Lord Clarets, another of Pierrepont^s ; an
ample market-place ; large streets, full of crosses ; the
reUcs of an ancient castle hollowed, beneath which are
many caverns, especially that of the Scots^ King, and his
work whilst there.
This place is remarkable for being the place where his
Majesty first erected his standard at the beginning of
our late unhappy differences. The prospects from this
city towards the river and meadows are most delightful.
15th. We passed next through Sherwood Forest, ac-
counted the most extensive in England. Then, Paple-
wick, an incompai'able vista with the pretty castle near it.
Thence, we saw Newstead Abbey, belonging to the Lord
Byron, situated much like Fontainebleau, in France,t capa-
ble of being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with
brave woods and streams ; it has yet remaining the front
of a glorious abbey church. Next, by Mansfield town ;
then Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle,
seated in a bottom in a park, and environed with woods, a
noble yet melancholy seat. The palace is a handsome and
stately building. Next to Worksop Abbey, almost demo-
hshed; the church has a double flat tower entire, and
a pretty gate. The manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel,
and has to it a fair house at the foot of a hill in a park
that affords a dehcate prospect. Tickel, a town and
castle, has a very noble prospect. All these in Notting-
hamshire.
• See p. 71. t See p. 57.
300 DIARY OP [YORK,
16th. We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay this night ;
it is a large fair town^ famous for great wax-lights, and
good stockings.
17th. Passed through Pontefract ; the castle, famous for
many sieges both of late and ancient times, and the death
of that unhappy King murdered in it (Richard II.), was
now demolishing by the Rebels ; it stands on a mount, and
makes a goodly show at a distance. The Queen has a
house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially
Mr. Pierrepont's, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle
ruins. We all alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal
spring, which they call Robin Hood's Well ; near it, is a
stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink out of, chained to
the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which we
have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble
seat), and in sight of divers other gentlemen's fair houses.
This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-watered and wooded
country, abounding with pasture and plenty of provisions.
To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a
circular form, watered by the brave river Ouse, bearing
vessels of considerable burthen on it ; over it is a stone
bridge emulating that of London, and built on ; the middle
arch is larger than any I have seen in England, with a
wharf of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very
neat. But most remarkable and worthy seeing is St. Peter's
Cathedral, which of all the great churches in England
had been best preserved from the fury of the sacrilegious,*
by composition with the Rebels when they took the city,,
during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It is a
most entire magnificent piece of Gothic architecture. The
screen before the choir is of stone carved with flowers,,
running work, and statues of the old kings. Many of the
monuments are very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in
these days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and
Common Prayer-Book covered with crimson velvet, and
richly embossed with silver gilt; also a service for the
altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, chahces,
patins, &c., with a gorgeous covering for the altar and
j)ulpit, carefully preserved in the vestry, in the hollow wall
whereof rises a plentiful spring of excellent water. I got
up to the tower, whence Ave had a prospect towards Dur-
* By Sir Thomas Fairfax.
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 301
ham, and could see Ripon, part of Lancashire, the famous
and fatal Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, and
all the environs of that admirable country. Sir
Ingoldsby has here a large house, gardens, and tennis
court ; also the King's house and church near the castle,
which was modernly fortified with a palisade and bas-
tions. The streets are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like
London.
18th. We went to Beverley, a large town with two
stately churches, St. John's and St. Mary's, not much
inferior to the best of our cathedrals. Here a very old
woman showed us the monuments, and, being above 100
years of age, spake the language of Queen Mary's days, in
whose time she was bom ; she was widow of a sexton who
had belonged to the church a hundred years.
Hence, we passed through a fenny but rich country to
Hull, situate like Calais, modernly and strongly fortified
with three block-houses of brick and earth. It has a good
market-place and harbour for ships. Famous also (or
lather infamous) is this town for Hotham's refusing en-
trance to his Majesty. The water-house is worth seeing.
And here ends the South of Yorkshire.
19th. We pass the Humber, an arm of the sea of about
two leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we crossed
it in a good barge to Barton, the first town in that part of
Lincolnshire. All marsh ground till we came to Brigg,
famous for the plantations of licorice, and then had brave
pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury
Plain. Lincoln is an old confused town, very long, uneven,
steep, and ragged ; formerly full of good houses, especially
churches and abbeys. The Minster almost comparable to
that of York itself, abounding with marble pillars, and
having a fair front. Herein was interred Queen Eleanora,
the loyal and loving wife who sucked the poison out of her
husband's wound ; the abbot, founder, with rare carving
in the stone ; the great bell, or Tom, as they call it ; I
went up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all
over the country. The soldiers had lately knocked oft'
most of the brasses from the grave-stones, so as few inscrip-
tions were left ; they told us that these men went in with
axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had
rent and torn off some barge-loads of metal, not sparing
3Q2 DIARY OP [PETERBOROUGH,
even the monuments of the dead ; so hellish an avarice
possessed them : besides which, they exceedingly ruined
the city.
Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two inches high, comely,
middle-aged, and well-proportioned, who kept a very neat
and clean ale-house, and got most by people's coming to
see her on account of her height.
20th. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a
large heath open like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham, a
pretty town, so well situated on the side of a bottom, which
is large and at a distance environed with ascending grounds,
that for pleasure I consider it comparable to most inland
places of England ; famous is the steeple for the exceeding
height of the shaft, which is of stone.
About eighteen miles South, we pass by a noble seat,
and see Boston, at a distance. Here, we came to a parish
of which the parson hath tithe ale.
Thence through Rutland, we brought night to Homing-
hold, from whence I set out on this excursion.
22nd. I went a setting and hawking, where we had
tolerable sport.
25th. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord
Hatton's, in Northamptonshire, built a la moderne ; the
garden and stables agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful,
and the seat naked : returned that evening.
27th. Mr. AlHngton preached an excellent discourse
from Romans vi. 19. This was he who published those
bold sermons of the members warring against the mind,
or the Jews crucifying Christ, applied to the wicked
regicides ; for which he was ruined. We had no sermon
in the afternoon.
30th. Taking leave of my friends, who had now feasted
me more than a month, I, with my wife, &c., set our faces
towards home, and got this evening to Peterborough,
passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of St. John's (one
deep in the blood of our good King), built out of the
ruins of the Bishop's palace and cloister. The church is
exceeding fair, full of monuments of great antiquity. Here
hes Queen Catharine, the unhappy wife of Henry VIII.,
and the no less unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. On
the steeple, we viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now much
inclosed and drained with infinite expense, and by many
1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 303
sluices, cuts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like
inventions ; at which the city and country about it, con-
sisting of a poor and very lazy sort of people, were much
displeased.
Peterborough is a handsome town, and hath another
well-built church.
31st. Through part of Huntingdonshire, we passed that
town, fair and ancient, a river running by it. The country
about it so abounds in wheat that, when any King of
England passes through it, they have a custom to meet
him with a hundred ploughs.
This evening, to Cambridge ; and went first to St. John's
College, well built of brick, and library, which I think is
the fairest of that University. One Mr. Benlowes * has
given it all the ornaments of pietra commessa,t whereof
a table and one piece of perspective is very fine ; other
trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old
song-book, or Service, and some fair manuscripts. There
hangs in the hbrary the picture of John Williams, Arch-
bishop of York, sometime Lord Keeper, my kinsman, and
their great benefactor.
Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quad-
rangle of any University in Europe ; but in truth is far
inferior to that of Christ Church, in Oxford; the hall is
ample and of stone, the fountain in the quadrangle is
graceful, the chapel and Hbrary fair. There, they showed
us the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but
the passage and emblem which they would apply to our
late King, is manifestly relating to the Swedish ; in truth,
it seems to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however the title
may bespeak strange revelations. There is an office in
manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities
given by the Coimtess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII.,
and the before-mentioned Archbishop Williams, when
Bishop of Lincoln. The library is pretty well stored.
The Greek Professor had me into another large quadrangle
cloistered and well-built, and gave us a handsome collation
in his own chamber.
Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King's College,
* Edward Benlowes, Esq., a writer of Divine Poesy, of a good family in
Essex, and of a good- estate, but which he wasted by improvident liberality,
and buying curiosities, as Wood says. Wood's Fasti, 876.
f Marble, inlaid of various colours, representing flowers, birds, &c.
304 DIARY OF [CAMBRIDGE,
where I found the chapel altogether answered expectation,
especially the roof all of stone, which for the flatness of
its laying and carving may, I conceive, vie with any in
Christendom. ISie contignation of the roof (which I
went upon), weight, and artificial joining of the stones, is
admirable. The lights are also very fair. In one aisle,
lies the famous Dr. Collins, so celebrated for his fluency in
the Latin tongue. From this roof, we could descry Ely,
and the encampment of Sturbridge fair now beginning to
set up their tents and booths ; also Royston, Newmarket,
&c., houses belonging to the King. The hbrary is too
narrow.
Clare-Hall is of a new and noble design, but not finished.
Peter-House, formerly under the government of my
worthy friend. Dr. Joseph Cosin, Dean of Peterborough;*
a pretty neat college, having a delicate chapel. Next to
Sidney, a fine college.
Catharine-Hall, though a mean structure, is yet famous
for the learned Bishop Andrews, once Master. Umanuel
College, that zealous house, where to the hall they have a
parlour for the Fellows. The chapel is reformed, ab origine,
built north and south, and meanly erected, as is the
library.
Jesus-College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy
situation. Next to Christ-College, a very noble erection,
especially the modern part, built without the quadrangle
towards the gardens, of exact architecture.
The Schools are very despicable, and Public Library
but mean, though somewhat improved by the wainscoting
and books lately added by the Bishop Bancroft's library,
And MSS. They showed us little of antiquity, only
King James's Works, being his own gift, and kept very
reverently.
The market-place is very ample, and remarkable for old
Hobson the pleasant carrier's beneficence of a fountain.t
But the whole town is situate in a low dirty unpleasant
place, the streets ill-paved, the air thick and infected by
the fens, nor are its churches (of which St. Mary's is the
best) anything considerable, in compare to Oxford. J
• Ejected from all his preferments, in 1640, or 1641. Afterwards, Bishop
of Durham.
+ It is rather a conduit.
J The reader must remember that an Oxford man is epeaking.
1G54.] JOHN EVELYN. 305
From Cambridge, we went to Audley-End, and spent
some time in seeing that goodly palace built by Howard,
Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is a mixed fabric,
betwixt antique and modern, but observable for its being
completely finished, and without comparison is one of the
stateliest palaces in the kingdom. It consists of two
courts, the first very large, winged with cloisters. The
front had a double entrance ; the hall is fair, but some-
what too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very
large, as are the cellars arched with stone, very neat and
well disposed ; these ofiices are joined by a wing out of the
way very handsomely. The gallery is the most cheerful,
and I think one of the best in England; a fair dining-
room, and the rest of the lodgings answerable, with a
pretty chapel. The gardens are not in order, though well
inclosed. It has also a bowling-alley, a nobly well-walled,
wooded, and watered park, full of fine collines and ponds :
the river glides before the palace, to which is an avenue of"
lime-trees, but all this is much diminished by its being
placed in an obscure bottom. For the rest, it is a perfectly
uniform structure, and shows without like a diadem, by
the decorations of the cupolas and other ornaments on the
pavilions ; instead of rails and balusters, there is a border
of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk-House, near
Charing-Cross, built by the same Lord Treasurer.*
This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden,
famous for the abundance of saffron there cultivated, and
esteemed the best of any foreign country.
3rd October. Having dined here, we passed through
Bishop Stortford, a pretty watered town, and so by
London, late home to Sayes Court, after a journey of 700
miles, but for the variety an agreeable refreshment after
my turmoil and building.
10th. To my brother at Wotton, who had been sick.
14th. I went to visit my noble friend, Mr. Hyldiard>
where I met that learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier,
and Dr. Stokes, one of his Majesty's Chaplains.
15th. To Betchworth Castle, to Sir Ambrose Browne,
and other gentlemen of my sweet and native country.
24th. The good old parson, Higham, preached at
* Where Suffolk Street stood.
VOL. I. X
306 DIARY OP [i,0ND0N,
Wotton Church : a plain preacher, but innocent and
honest man.
23rd November. I went to London, to visit my cousin
Fanshawe, and this day I saw one of the rarest collections
of agates, onyxes, and intaglios, that I had ever seen
either at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old hat-
maker in Blackfriars, especially one agate vase, hereto-
fore the great Earl of Leicester's.
28th. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to
visit us ; also one Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer,
after the Italian manner, of any in England; he entertained
ns with his voice and theorbo.
31st. My birth-day, being the 34th year of my age :
blessing God for His providence, I went to London to visit
my brother.
3rd December. Advent Sunday. There being no Office
at the church but extemporary prayers after the Presbyte-
rian way, for now all forms were prohibited, and most of
the preachers were usurpers, I seldom went to church
upon solemn feasts; but, either went to London, where
some of the orthodox sequestered Divines did privately use
the Common Prayer, administer sacraments, &c., or else I
procured one to officiate in my house ; wherefore, on the
10 th, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequestered minister of
Eltham, preached to my family in my library, and gave
us the holy Communion.
25th. Christmas-day. No public offices in churches, but
penalties on observers, so as I was constrained to celebrate
it at home.
1654-5. 1st January. Having with my family performed
the public offices of the day, and begged a blessing on the
year I was now entering, I went to keep the rest of
Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn, at "Woodcot.
19th. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being
my third, but second living. Christened on the 26th by the
name of John.
28th. A stranger preached from Colossians, iii. 2,
inciting our affections to the obtaining heavenly things.
I understood afterwards that this man had been both
Chaplain and Lieutenant to Admiral Penn, using both
swords, whether ordained or not I cannot say ; into such
times were we fallen !
1655.] JOHN EVELYN. 3O7
24th February. I was showed a table-clock whose balance
was only a crystal ball, sliding on parallel wires, without
being at all fixed, but rolling trom stage to stage till fall-
ing on a spring concealed from sight, it was thrown up to
the upmost channel again, made with an imperceptible
declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily
entertaining the eye every half minute, and the next half
giving progress to the hand that showed the hour, and
giving notice by a small bell, so as in 120 half minutes, or
periods, of the buUet^s falHng on the ejaculatory spring, the
€lock-part struck. This very extraordinary piece (richly
adorned) had been presented by some German Prince to
our late King, and was now in possession of the Usurper;
valued at 200/.
2nd March. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweller, showed
me a most rich agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having
a figure of Cleopatra at the scroll, her body, hair, mantle,
and veil, of the several natural colours. It was supported
by a half Mark Antony, the colours rarely natural, and the
work truly antique, but I conceived they were of several
pieces ; had they been all of one stone, it were invaluable.
18th. Went to London, on purpose to hear that excellent
preacher. Dr. Jeremy Taylor, on Matt. xiv. 17, showing
what were the conditions of obtaining eternal life : also,
concerning abatements for unavoidable infirmities, how
cast on the accounts of the cross. On the 31st, I made a
visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to confer with him about some
spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly
father. I beseech God Almighty to make me ever mindful .
of, and thankful for. His heavenly assistances !
2nd April, This was the first week that my uncle,
Pretyman, being parted with his family from me, I began
housekeeping, till now sojourning with him in my own
house.
9th. I went to see the great ship newly built by the
Usurper, Oliver, carrying ninety-six brass guns, and 1000
tons burthen. In the prow was Oliver on horseback,
trampling six nations under foot, a Scot, Irishman, Dutch-
man, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily
made out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel
over his insulting head ; the word, God with us.
15th. I went to London with my family, to celebrate the
x2
OQ8 DIARY OF [ryegate,
feast of Easter. Dr. Wild preached at St. Gregory's; the
ruling Powers conniving at the use of the Liturgy, &c., in
this church alone. In the afternoon, Mr. Pierson (since
Bishop of Chester) preached at Eastcheap,butwas disturbed
by an alarm of fire, which about this time was very frequent
in the City.
29th May. I sold Preston to Colonel Morley.
17th June. There was a collection for the persecuted
churches and Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient
Albigenses.
3rd July. I was showed a pretty Terella, described with
all the circles, and showing ^1 the magnetic deviations.
14th. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome,
also Sir Edward Hales, Sir Joseph Tufton, with Mr.
Seymour.
1st August. I went to Dorking, to see Mr. Charles
Howard's amphitheatre, garden, or sohtary recess,* being
fifteen acres environed by a hill. He showed us divers rare
plants, caves, and an elaboratory.
10th. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun,
to build, and alter the gardens much. He showed me many
rare pictures, particularly the Moor on horseback; Erasmus,
as big as the life, by Holbein ; a Madonna, in miniature,
by Ohver; but, above all, the Skull, carved in wood, by
Albert Durer, for which his father was ofifered 100/, ; also
Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios,
and other curiosities.
21st. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. Cary, at my Lady
Peterborough's, in an ancient monastery well in repair, but
the park much defaced; the house is nobly furnished.
The chimney-piece in the great chamber, carved in wood,
was of Henry VIIL, and was taken from an house of his
in Blechingley. At Ryegate, was now the Archbishop of
Armagh, the learned James Usher, whom I went to visit.
He received me exceeding kindly. In discourse with him,
he told me how great the loss of time was to study much
the Eastern languages ; that, excepting Hebrew, there was
little fruit to be gathered of exceeding labour ; that, besides
some mathematic^J books, the Arabic itself had little con-
siderable ; that the best text was the Hebrew Bible ; that
• Called Deepden, the property of Thomas Hope, Esq.
1655.] JOHN EVELYN. 309
tlie Septuagint was finished in seventy days, but full of
errors, about which he was then writing; that St. Hierome's
was to be valued next the Hebrew ; also that the seventy
translated the Pentateuch only, the rest was finished by
others ; that the Italians at present understood but little
Greek, and Kircherwas a mountebank; that Mr. Selden's
best book was his " Titles of Honour ; " that the Church
would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all likeli-
hood bring in Popery. In conclusion, he recommended
to me the study of philology, above all human studies;
and so, with his blessing, I took my leave of this excellent
person, and returned to Wotton.
27th. I went to Boxhill, to see those rare natural bowers,
cabinets, and shady walks in the box-copses : hence, we
walked to Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seat,
environed with elm-trees and walnuts innumerable, and of
which last he told us they received a considerable revenue.
Here are such goodly walks and hills shaded with yew and
box, as render the place extremely agreeable, it seeming
from these ever-greens to be summer all the winter.
28th. Camethatrenownedmathematician,Mr. Oughtred*
to see me, I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton,
being now very aged. Amongst other discourse, he told
me he thought water to be the philosopher's first matter,
and that he was well persuaded of the possibility of their 4=^
elixir ; he behoved the sun to be a material fire, the moon
a continent, as appears by the late Selenographers ; he had
strong apprehensions of some extraordinary event to happen
the following year, from the calculation of coincidence with
the diluvian period ; and added that it might possibly be
to convert the Jews by our Saviour's visible appearance, or
to judge the world ; and, therefore, his word was, Par ate in
occursum ; he said original sin was not met with in the
Greek Fathers, yet he believed the thing ; this was from
some discourse on Dr. Taylor's late book, which I had lent
him.
16th September. Preached at St. Gregory^s one Darnel,
on Psalm iv. 4, concerning the benefit of self-examination ;
more learning in so short a time as an hour I have seldom
heard.
* Bector of Albury, of whom there are several excellent engravings by
W. Hollar.
32 Q DIARY OF [LONDON,
] 7th. Eeceived 2600/. of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of
Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since.
The taxes were so intolerable that they eat up the rents, &c.,
surcharged as that county had been above all others during
our unnatural war.
19th. Came to see me Sir Edward Hales, Mr. Ashmole,
Mr. Harlakenton, and Mr. Thornhill : and, the next day,
I visited Sir Henry Newton, at Charlton, where I met the
Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp, daughter to the
Lord Capel.
On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid at home to
catechise and instruct my family, those exercises univer-
sally ceasing in the parish churches, so as people had no
principles, and grew very ignorant of even the common
points of Christianity ; all devotion being now placed in
hearing sermons and discourses of speculative and notional
things.
26th. I went to see Colonel Blount^s subterranean war-
ren, and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was good
for little.
31st. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to treat with me about
his vast design of a mole * to be made for ships in part of
my grounds at Sayes Court.
3rd November. I had accidentally discourse withaPersiai^
and a Greek concerning the devastation of Poland by the
late incursion of the Swedes.
27th. To London, about Sir Nicholas Crisp's designs.
I went to see York House and gardens, belonging to the
former great Buckingham, but now much ruined through
neglect, t
Thence, to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib,J a
public spirited and ingenious person, who had propagated
many useful things and arts. He told me of the castles
which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany
* See hereafter, under 1662, January.
t The Duke's names and titles are still preserved in the buildings erected
on the site ; viz, George Street, Villiers Street, Duiie Street, Off Alley, Buck-
ingham Street.
i Samuel Hartlib. Milton's Tractate of Education is addressed to him.
Mr. Todd, in his Life of that Poet, prefixed to the last Edition of his Poetical
Works, observes that " a Life of Hartlib is a desideratum in English Bio-
graphy : " there are ample materials for it in the publications of the tune.
1655.] JOHN EVELYN. 311
(he himself being a Lithuanian, as I remember), which are
furnished with small ordnance of silver on the battlements,
out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the
rooms, charging them with a little powder to set them on
fire, and disperse the smoke ; and, in truth, no more than
need ; for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me
of an ink that would give a dozen copies, moist sheets of
paper being pressed on it, and remain perfect ; and a
receipt how to take oif any print without the least injury
to the original. This gentleman was master of innumerable
curiosities, and very communicative. I returned home
that evening by water, and was afflicted for it with a cold
that had almost killed me.
This day, came forth the Protector's Edict, or Proclama-
tion, prohibiting all ministers of the Church of England
from preaching or teaching any schools, in which he imi-
tated the apostate, Julian ; with the decimation of all the
royal party's revenues throughout England.
14th December. I visited Mr. Hobbes, the famous phi-
losopher of Malmesbury, with whom I had been long
acquainted in France.
Now were the Jews admitted.
25th. There was no more notice taken of Christmas-
day in churches.
I went to London, where Dr. Wild preached the funeral
sermon of Preaching, this being the last day ; after which,
Cromwell's proclamation was to take place, that none of
the Church of England should dare either to preach, or
administer Sacraments, teach school, &c., on pain of
imprisonment, or exile. So this was the moumfuUest day
that in my life I had seen, or the Church of England her-
self, since the Reformation ; to the great rejoicing of both
Papist and Presbyter.* So pathetic was his discourse,
that it drew many tears from the auditory. Myself, wife,
and some of our family, received the Communion ; God
make me thankful, who hath hitherto pro\ided forus thefood
of our souls as well as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our
distressed Church, and bring back the captivity of Zion !
• The text was 2 Cor. xiii. 9. That, however persecution dealt with the
Ministers of God's Word, they were still to pray for the flo^k, and wish their
perfection, as it was the flock to pray for and assist their pastors, by the
example of St. Paul. J. £.
312 DIARY OF [LONDON,
1655-6. 5th January. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle,
son to the Earl of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two
of the Usurper's council; Mr. John Hervey, and John
Denham, the poet.
18th. Went to Eltham on foot, being a great frost, but
a mist falling as I returned, gave me such a rheum as kept
me within doors near a whole month after.
5th February. Was showed me a pretty perspective and
well represented in a triangular box, the great Church of
Haarlem in Holland, to be seen through a small hole at one
of the corners, and contrived into a handsome cabinet. It
was so rarely done, that all the artists and painters in town
flocked to see and admire it.
10th. I heard Dr. Wilkins* preach before the Lord
Mayor in St. Paul's, showing how obedience was prefer-
able to sacrifice. He was a most obliging person, who
had married the Protector's sister, and took great pains to
preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacrilegious
commanders and soldiers, who would fain have demohshed
all places and persons that pretended to learning.
11th. I ventured to go to Whitehall, where of many
years I had not been, and found it very glorious and well-
furnished, as far as I could safely go, and was glad to find
they had not much defaced that rare piece of Henry VII.,
&c., done on the walls of the King's privy chamber.
14th. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley,
of Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with
my Lord Bruce, my feUow-traveller in Italy.
19th. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the famous
painter of fowls, beasts, and birds.
4th March. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger
L'Estrange to hear the incomparable Lubicer on the violin.
His variety on a few notes and plain ground, with that
wonderful dexterity, was admirable. Though a young
man, yet so perfect and skilful, that there was nothing,
however cross and perplexed, brought to him by our artists,
which he did not play off at sight with ravishing sweetness
and improvements, to the astonishment of our best masters.
In sum, he played on the single instrument a full concert,
so as the rest flung down their instruments, acknowledging
• Afterwards, Bishop of Chester.
1656.] JOHN EVELYN. 313
the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this
hour amazed that God should give so great perfection to
so young a person. There were at that time as excellent
in their profession as any were thought to be in Europe,
Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell, and others, till this prodigy
appeared. I can no longer question the effects Ave read of
in David^s harp to charm evil spirits, or what is said some
particular notes produced in the passions of Alexander, and
that King of Denmark.
13th April. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Eobert Boyle (that
excellent person and great virtuoso). Dr. Taylor, and Dr.
Wilkins, dined with me at Sayes Court, when I presented
Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-glass. In the after-
noon, we all went to Colonel Blount's, to see his new-invented
ploughs.
22nd. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir WiUiam Pas-
ton^s son, since Earl of Yarmouth. Afterwards, I went to
see his Majesty^s house at Eltham, both palace and chapel
in miserable ruins, the noble woods and park destroyed by
Eich, the rebel.
6th May. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French
Sorbonnist, a proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor ; they
fell to dispute on original sin, in Latin, upon a book
newly pubhshed by the Doctor, who was much satisfied
with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our
learned antiquary and herald. Returning, I was showed
the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's, "Obeliscus
Pamphilius" and " ^gyptiacus ;" in the second volume, I
found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to
him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he
mentions. I designed it from the stone itself brought me
to Venice from Cairo by Captain Powell.*
7th. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed on him to pro-
pose Monsieur le Franc to the Bishop that he might have
Orders, I having sometime before brought him to a full
consent to the Church of England, her doctrine and dis-
cipHne, in which he had till of late made some difficulty ;
so he was this day ordained both deacon and priest by the
Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his lordship, who was
very poor and in great want ; to that necessity were our
•See pp. 212, 213.
314 DIARY OF [COLCHBSTEK,
clergy reduced ! In the afternoon, I met Alderman
Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion about the marriage
of my cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine.
8 th. I went to yisit Dr. Wilkins, at Whitehall, when I
first met with Sir P. Neale, famous for his optic glasses.
Greatorix, the mathematical instrument-maker, showed
me his excellent invention to quench fire.
12th. Was published my Essay on Lucretius,* with
innumerable errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet, who
undertook the correction of the press in my absence. Little
of the Epicurean philosophy was then known amongst us.
28th. I dined with Nieuport, the Holland Ambassador,
who received me with extraordinary courtesy. I found
him a judicious, crafty, and wise man. He gave me
excellent cautions as to the danger of the times, and the
circumstances our nation was in. I remember the obser-
vation he made upon the ill success of our former Par-
liaments, and their private animosities, and little care of
the public.
Came to visit me the old Marquis of Argyle (since
executed). Lord Lothian, and some other Scotch noble-
men, all strangers to me. Note, the Marquis took the
turtle-doves in the aviary for owls.
The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr.
Spencer, brother to the Earl of Sunderland, came to see
my garden.
7th July, I began my journey to see some parts of the
north-east of England ; but the weather was so excessive
hot and dusty, I shortened my progress.
8th. To Colchester, a fair town, but now wretchedly'
demolished by the late siege, especially the suburbs, which
were all burnt, but were then repairing. The town is
built on a rising ground, having fair meadows on one side,
* A translation into English verse of the first book only, the frontispiece
to which was designed by Mr. Evelyn's lady. Prefixed to the copy in
tlie library at Wotton, is tl.is note in his own handwriting : " Never was book
so abominably misused by printer : never copy so negligently surveyed by
one who undertook to look over the proof-sheets with all exactness and care ;
namely, Dr. Triplet, well known for his ability, and who pretended to oblige
me in my absence, and so readily offered himself. This good yet I received
by it, that publishing it vainly, its ill success at the printer's discouraged me
with troubling the world with the rest."
1656.] JOHN EVELYN. 315
and a river with a strong ancient castle, said to have been
built by King Coilus, father of Helena, mother of Con-
stantino the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the
pinnacle of one of their wool-staple houses, where is a
statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly carved. The walls
are exceeding strong, deeply trenched, and filled with
earth. It has six gates, and some watch-towers, and some
handsome churches. But what was showed us as a kind
of miracle, at the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir
Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, those vahant and
noble persons who so bravely behaved themselves in the
last siege, were barbarously shot, murdered by Ireton in
cold blood, after surrendering on articles; having been
disappointed of relief from the Scotch army, which had
been defeated with the King at Worcester. The place
was bare of grass for a large space, all the rest of it
abounding with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged
and factious town, now swarming with sectaries. Their
trading is in cloth with the Dutch, and baize and says with
Spain ; it is the only place in England where these stuffs
are made unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters
and eringo-root, growing hereabout, and candied for sale.
Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, having a very
fair church, finely situated, the valley well watered. Here,
I met with Dr. Stokes, a young gentleman, but an excel-
lent mathematician. This is a clothing town, as most are
in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds.
Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the sweetest, most
pleasant, well-built towns in England. It has twelve fair
churches, many noble houses, especially the Lord Devereux^s;
a brave quay, and commodious harbour, being about seven
miles from the main; an ample market-place. Here was
born the great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here,
which was not finished.
I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers here in prison;
a new fanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who show no
respect to any man, magistrate, or other, and seem a
melancholy, proud sort of people, and exceedingly ignorant.
One of these was said to have fasted twenty days; but
another, endeavouring to do the hke, perished on the 10th,
when he would have eaten, but covdd not.
10th. I returned homeward, passing again through
316 DIARY OP [LONDON,
Colchester; and^ by the way, near the ancient town of
Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built in a park by Henry VII.
and VIII., and given by Queen Ehzabeth to the Earl of
Sussex, who sold it to the late great Duke of Buckingham,
and since seized on by Oliver Cromwell (pretended Pro-
tector) . It is a fair old house, built with brick, low, being
only of two stories, as the manner then was; the gate-
house, better ; the court, large and pretty ; the staircase,
of extraordinary wideness, with a piece representing Sir
Erancis Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-
piece; the galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the
garden a fair plot, and the whole Seat well accommodated
with water; but, above all, I admired the fair avenue
planted with stately lime trees, in four rows, for near a
mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only
fault, and may be reformed. There is another fair walk of
the same at the mall and wilderness, with a tennis-court,
and pleasant terrace towards the park, which was well
stored with deer and ponds.
11th. Came home by Greenwich ferry, where I saw Sir
J. Winter's project of charring sea-coal, to burn out the
sulphur, and render it sweet. He did it by burning the
coals in such earthen pots as the glass-men melt their
metal, so firing them without consuming them, using a
bar of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar has a hook
at one end, that so the coals being melted in a furnace
with other crude sea-coals under them, may be drawn out
of the pots sticking to the iron, whence they are beaten off
in great half-exhausted cinders, which being re-kindled
»nake a clear pleasant chamber-fire, deprived of their
sulphur and arsenic malignity. What success it may have,
time will discover.*
3rd August. I went to London, to receive the Blessed
Sacrament, the first time the Church of England was
reduced to a chamber and conventicle ; so sharp was the
persecution. The parish-churches were filled with sectaries
of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics usurping
the pulpits everjrwhere. Dr. Wildf preached in a private
* Many years ago. Lord Dundonald, a Scotch nobleman, revived the pro-
ject, but with the proposed improvement of extracting and saving the tar.
Unfortunately, his Lordship did not profit by it. The Gas Companies sell the
coal thus charred, by the name of coke, as fuel for many purposes.
t See note, p. 334.
165G.] JOHN EVELYN. 317
house in Fleet-street, where we had a great meeting of
zealous Christians, who were generally much more devout
and religious than in our greatest prosperity. In the
afternoon, I went to the French Church in the Savoy, where
I heard Monsieur d^Espagne catechise, and so returned to
my house.
20th. Was a confused election of Parliament called by
the Usurper.
7th September. I went to take leave of my excellent
neighbour and friend. Sir H. Newton and lady, now going
to dwell at Warwick ; and Mr. Needham, my dear and
learned friend, came to visit me.
14th. Now was old Sir Henry Vane sent to Carisbrook
Castle, in Wight, for a foohsh book he published ; the pre-
tended Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, and send-
ing many to prison.
2nd October. Came to visit me my cousin, Stephens, and
Mr. Pierce (since Head of Magdalen College, Oxford), a
learned minister of Brington, in Northamptonshire, and
Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians.
2nd November. There was now nothing practical
preached, or that pressed reformation of life, but high
and speculative points and strains that few understood,,
which left people very ignorant, and of no steady principles,,
the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was
much envy and uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy
amend it ! Now, indeed, that I went at all to church,
whilst these usurpers possessed the pulpits, was that I
might not be suspected for a Papist, and that, though the
minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I
understood duly ordained, and preached sound doctrine
after their way, and besides was an humble, harmless, and
peaceable man.
25th December. I went to London, to receive the Blessed
Communion this holy festival at Dr. Wildes lodgings,
where I rejoiced to find so full an assembly of devout and
sober Christians.
26th. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants,
according to custom, and to preserve hospitahty and
charity.
28th. A stranger preached on Luke xviii. 7, 8, on which
318 DIARY OF [LONDON,
he made a confused discourse, with a great deal of Greek
and ostentation of learning, to but Httle purpose.
30th. Dined with me Sir William Paston's son, Mr.
Henshaw, and Mr. Clayton.
31st. I begged God's blessing and mercies for his good-
ness to me the past year, and set my domestic affairs in
order.
1656-7. 1st January. Having prayed with my family, and
celebrated the anniversary, I spent some time in imploring
God's blessing the year I was entered into.
7th. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since secretary to the
Duke), slain in the Dutch war, eldest son to the Bishop of
Ely, now a prisoner in the Tower; a most worthy and
learned gentleman.
10th. Came Dr. Joyliffe, that famous physician and ana-
tomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins ; also the old
Marquis of Argyle, and another Scotch Earl.
5th February. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's ; he
told me the East India Company of Holland had constantly
a stock of 400,000/. in India, and forty-eight men-of-war
there: he spoke of their exact and just keeping their
books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock
could possibly be lost, or defeated ; that it was a vulgar
error that the Hollanders furnished their enemies with
powder and ammunition for their money, though engaged
in a cruel war, but that they used to merchandize indiffer-
ently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their
enemies. He laughed at our Committee of Trade, as com-
posed of men wholly ignorant of it, and how they were the
ruin of commerce, by gratifying some for private ends.
10th. I went to visit the Governor of Havannah, a brave,
sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Captain Young,
of Deptford, when, after twenty years being in the Indies,
and amassing great wealth, his lady and whole family,
except two sons, were burnt, destroyed, and taken within
sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, and wife, perishing
with immense treasure.* One son, of about seventeen
years old, with his brother of one year old, were the only
ones saved. The young gentleman, about seventeen, was
a well-complexioned youth, not olive-coloured; he spake
* This disastrous event is particularly noticed in Waller's poem on a War
with Spain. Fight at Sea, by General Montague, 1656.
1657.] JOHN EVELYN. 319
Latin handsomely, was extremely well-bred, and born in
the Caraccas, 1000 miles south of the Equinoctial, near
the mountains of Potosi; he had never been in Europe
before. The Governor was an ancient gentleman of great
courage, of the order of St. Jago, sore wounded in his arm,
and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share 100,000/.
sterhng, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indiflPer-
ence, and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went
with them to Arundel- House, where they dined. They
were now going back into Spain, having obtained their
liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude !
14th. To London, where I found Mrs. Gary ; next day,
came Mr. Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt), younger
son to the Gountess of Peterborough, to see his mistress,
bringing with him two of my Lord of Dover's daughters :
so, after dinner, they all departed.
5th March. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to
me his version of Gassendi's Vita Peiriskii.
25th. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. of Cases of Con-
science, or Ductor dubitantium, now fitted for the Press.
The Protector, Oliver, now affecting kingship, is petitioned
to take the title on him by all his new-made sycophant
lords, &c. ; but dares not, for fear of the fanatics, not
thoroughly purged out of his rebel army.
21st April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer, of Hanmer, in
Wales, to see me. I then waited on my Lord Hatton,
with whom I dined : at my return, I stepped into Bedlam,
where I saw several poor miserable creatures in chains ;
one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited
the Charter-house, formerly belonging to the Cai'thusians,
now an old neat fresh sohtary college for decayed gentle-
men. It has a grove, bowling-green, garden, chapel, and
a hall where they eat in common. I likewise saw Christ-
church and Hospital, a very goodly Gothic building ; the
hall, school, and lodgings in great order for bringing up
many hundreds of poor children of both sexes; it is an
exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of
the hall, representing the governors, founders, and the
institution.
25th. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent
Garden, going to my brother's, but without harm; the
Lord be praised !
320 DIARY OF [GREENWICH,
1st May. Divers soldiers were quartered at my house; but
I thank God went away the next day towards Flanders.
5th. I went with my cousin, George Tuke, to see Bay-
nard, in Surrey, a house of my brother Richard's, which he
would have hired. This is a very fair noble residence, built
in a park, and having one of the goodliest avenues of oaks
up to it that ever I saw; there is a pond* of 60 acres
near it; the windows of the chief rooms are of very fine
painted glass. The situation is excessively dirty and
melancholy.t
15th. Laurence, President of Oliver's Council, and some
other of his Court-Lords, came in the afternoon to see my
garden and plantations.
7th June. My fourth son was born, christened George,
(after my grandfather) ; Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiating in
the drawing-room.
18th. At Greenwich, I saw a sort of cat| brought from
the East Indies, shaped and snouted much like the Egyp-
tian racoon, in the body like a monkey, and so footed ; the
ears and tail like a cat, only the tail much longer, and the
skin variously ringed with black and white ; with the tail
it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into
trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its
hair was woolly like a lamb ; it was exceedingly nimble,
gentle, and purred as does the cat.
16th July. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor's recommendation, I
went to Eltham, to help one Moody, a young man, to that
living, by my interest with the patron.
August 6th. I went to see Colonel Blount, who showed
me the application of the way-wiser to a coach, exactly
measuring the miles, and showing them by an index as we
went on. It had three circles, one pointing to the number
of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the
subdivisions of quarters ; very pretty and useful.
10th. Our vicar, from John xviii. 36, declaimed against
♦ This pond belongs to Vachery in Cranley.
f It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst, in Surrey, adjoining to
Iludg\vick, in Sussex, in a deep clay soil. It was formerly the seat of Sir
Edward Bray, and afterwards belonged to the Earl of Onslow, who carried the
painted glass to his seat at Clandon.
X This was probably the animal called a Mocock (maucauco), well known
at present.
1557.] JOHN EVELYN. 321
the folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots,
called the Fifth-Monarchy-Men, pretending to set up the
kingdom of Christ with the sword. To this pass was
this age arrived when we had no King in Israel.
21st. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the
year was very sickly in the country.
1st September. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer, at his
melancholy seat at Camberwell. He has a very pretty
grove of oaks, and hedges of yew in his garden, and a
handsome row of tall elms before his court.
15tli. Going to London with some company, we stept
in to see a famous rope-dancer, called the Turk. * I saw
even to astonishment the agility with which he performed ;
he walked barefooted, taking hold by his toes only of a
rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as touch-
ing it with his hands; he danced blindfold on the high
rope, and with a boy of twelve years old tied to one of his
feet about twenty feet beneath him, dangling as he danced,
yet he moved as nimbly as if it had been but a feather.
Lastly, he stood on his head, on the top of a very high
mast, danced on a small rope that was very slack, and
finally flew down the perpendicular, on his breast, his
head foremost, his legs and arms extended, with divers
other activities. — I saw the hairy woman, f twenty years
old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was bom
at Augsburg, in Germany. Her very eye-brows were
combed upwards, and all her forehead as thick and even
as grows on any woman's head, neatly dressed; a very
long lock of hair out of each ear; she had also a most
prolix beard, and mustachios, with long locks growing on
the middle of her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the
colour of a bright brown, fine as well-dressed flax. She
was now married, and told me she had one child that was
not hairy, nor were any of her parents, or relations. She
was very well shaped, and played weU on the harpsichord.
17th. To see Sir Robert Needham, at Lambeth, a
relation of mine ; and thence to John Tradescant's museum,
* Mr. Evelyn again mentions this person in his Numismata, under the
name of the Funamble Turk.
f Bai*bara Vanbeck. There are two portraits of her, one a line engraving,
the other in mezzotinto, described by Mr. Granger in his Biography. There
\a also another representation of her in some German Book of Natural
History.
VOL. I. Y
g22 DIARY OP [LONDON,
in which the chiefest rarities were, in my opinion, the
ancient Roman, Indian, and other nations^ armour, shields,
and weapons ; some habits of curiously-coloured and
wrought feathers, one from the phenix wing, as tradition
goes. Other innumerable things there were, printed in
his catalogue by Mr. Ashmole, to whom after the death of
the widow they are bequeathed, and by him designed as a
gift to Oxford. *
19th October. I went to see divers gardens about Lon-
don ; returning, I saw at Dr. Joyliffe's two Virginian
rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard in length, small heads,
slender tails, but in the middle nearly the size of my leg ;
when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, as
loud as a child's rattle : this, by the collision of certain
gristly skins curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent
as parchment, by which they give warning : a providential
caution for other creatures to avoid them. The Doctor
tried their biting on rats and mice, which they immediately
killed: but their vigour must needs be much exhausted
here, in another climate, and kept only in a barrel of
bran.
22nd. To town, to visit the Holland Ambassador, with
whom I had now contracted much friendly correspondence,
useful to the intelligence I constantly gave his Majesty
abroad.
26th November. I went to London, to a court of the
East India Company on its new union, in Merchant-
Taylors' Hall, where was much disorder by reason of the
Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers obliged only
by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might
pursue their private trade; but it was carried against
them. Wednesday was fixed on for a General Court for
election of officers, after a sermon and prayers for good
success. The Stock resolved on was 800,000/.
27th. I took the oath at the East India House, sub-
scribing 500/.
2nd December. Dr. Rajnnolds (since Bishop of Norwich)
preached before the company at St. Andrew Under-shaffc,
on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by the example of Nehe-
miah, all the perfections of a trusty person in public aflFairs,
* Where they now ftre in the Ashmolean Museum. See hereafter, under
July, 1678.
.1667.] JOHN EVELYN. 323
'with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, ending
■with a prayer for God's blessing on the company and the
undertaking.
3rd. Mr. Gunning preached on John iii. 3, against the
Anabaptists, showing the effect and necessity of the sacra-
ment of baptism. This sect was now wonderfully spread.
25th. I went ta London with my wife, to celebrate
Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter chapel^
on Michah vii. 2. Sermon ended, as he was giving us
the Holy Sacrament, the chapel was surrounded with
soldiers, and all the communicants and assembly surprised
and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others
carried away. It fell to my share to be confined to a
room in the house, where yet I was permitted to dine with
the master of it, the Countess of Dorset, Lady Hatton,
and some others of quality who invited me. In the after-
noon, came Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from
Whitehall, to examine us one by one; some they com-
mitted to the Marshal, some to prison. When I came
before them, they took my name and abode, examined me
why, contrary to the ordinance made, that none should
any longer observe the superstitious time of the Nativity
(so esteemed by them), I durst oflPend, and particularly be
at Common Prayers, which they told me was but the mass
in English, and particularly pray for Charles Stuart ; for
which we had no Scripture. I told them we did not pray
for Charles Stuart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes,
and Governors. They replied, in so doing we prayed for
the King of Spain, too, who was their enemy and a Papist,
with other frivolous and ensnaring questions, and much
threatening ; and, finding no colour to detain me, thfey
dismissed me with much pity of my ignorance. These
were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spake
spiteful things of our Lord's Nativity. As we went up to
receive the Sacrament, the miscreants held their muskets
against us, as if they would have shot us at the altar, but
yet suffering us to finish the office of Communion, as per-
haps not having instructions what to do, in case they
found us in that action. So I got home late the next day ;
blessed be God !
1657-8. 27th January. After six fits of a quartan ague,
with which it pleased God to visit him, died my dear son,
y2
324 DIARY OF [S AYES-COURT,
Richard, to our inexpressible grief and affliction, five years
and three days old only, but at that tender age a prodigy
for wit and understanding; for beauty of body, a very
angel; for endowment of mind, of incredible and rare
hopes. To give only a little taste of them, and thereby
glory to God, who " out of the mouths of babes and infants
does sometimes perfect his praises,^' he had learned all his
catechism ; at two years and a half old, he could perfectly
read any of the English, Latin, French, or Gothic letters,
pronouncing the three first languages exactly. He had,
before the fifth year, or in that year, not only skill to read
most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate
the verbs regular, and most of the irregular ; learned out
" Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire vocabulary of
Latin and French primitives and words, could make con-
gruous syntax, turn English into Latin, and vice versd,
construe and prove what he read, and did the government
and use of relatives, verbs, substantives, ellipses, and many
figures and tropes, and made a considerable progress in
Comenius^s Janua; began himself to write legibly, and
had a strong passion for Greek. The number of verses
he could recite was prodigious, and what he remembered
of the parts of plays, which he would also act ; and, when
seeing a Plautus in one's hand, he asked what book it was,
and, being told it was comedy, and too difficult for him,
he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious
apphcation of fables and morals ; for he had read iEsop ;
he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by
heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him
in play, and he would make hues and demonstrate them.
Al to his piety, astonishing were his applications of Scrip-
ture upon occasion, and liis sense of God ; he had learned
all his Catechism early, and understood the historical part
of the Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ
came to redeem mankind, and how, comprehending these
necessaries himself, his godfathers were discharged of their
promise.
These and the like illuminations, far exceeding his age
and experience, considering the prettiness of his address
and behaviour, cannot but leave impressions in me at the
memory of him. "When one told him how many days a
Quaker had fasted, he rephed that was no wonder ; for
1658.] JOHN EVELYN. 325
Christ had said that man should not live by bread alone,
but by the Word of God. He would of himself select the
most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of Job, to read to
his maid during his sickness, tellirg her, when she pitied
him, that all God's children must suffer affliction. He
declaimed against the vanities of the world, before he had
seen any. Often he would desire those who came to see
him to pray by him, and a year before he fell sick, to kneel
and pray with him alone in some corner. How thankfully
would he receive admonition ! how soon be reconciled !
how indifferent, yet continually cheerful ! He would
give grave advice to his brother, John, bear with his im-
pertinences, and say he was but a child. If he heard of
or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told how
it was made ; he brought to us all such difficulties as he
found in books, to be expounded. He had learned by
heart divers sentences in Latin and Greek which, on oc-
casion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life,
all prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in any
thing he said or did. The last time he had been at church,
(which was at Greenwich), I asked him, according to cus-
tom, what he remembered of the sermon; two good
things. Father, said he, bonum gratice and bonum gloria,
with a just account of what the preacher said.
The day before he died, he called to me ; and, in a more
serious manner than usual, told me that for all I loved him
so dearly, I should give my house, land, and all my fine
things, to his brother Jack, he should have none of them;
and, next morning, when he found himself ill, and that I
persuaded him to keep his hands in bed, he demanded
whether he might pray to God with his hands unjoined;
and a little after, whilst in great agony, whether he should
not offend God by using his holy name so often calling for
ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathetical ejacula-
tions uttered of himself : "Sweet Jesus save me, deliver
me, pardon my sins, let thine angels receive me ! " So
early knowledge, so much piety and perfection ! But
thus God, having dressed up a saint fit for himself, would
not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the future
fruits of this incomparable hopeful blossom. Such a child
I never saw : for such a child I bless God, in whose bosom
he is ! May I and mine become as this little child, who
326 DIARY OF [sAYEs-couRT,
now follows tlie cliild Jesus that Lamb of God in a white
robe, whithersoever he goes; even so, Lord Jesus, fiat
voluntas tua ! Thou gavest him to us. Thou hast taken
him from us, blessed be the name of the Lord ! That I
had any thing acceptable to Thee was from thy grace
alone, since from me he had nothing but sin, but that
Thou hast pardoned ! blessed be my God for ever, Amen!
In my opinion, he was suffocated by the women and
maids that tended him, and covered him too hot with
blankets as he lay in a cradle, near an excessive hot fire in
a close room. I suffered him to be opened, when they
found that he was what is vulgarly called liver-grown. I
caused his body to be coffined in lead, and reposited on
the 30 th at eight o^clock that night in the church at Dept-
ford, accompanied with divers of my relations and neigh-
bours, among whom I distributed rings with this motto :
Dominus abstulit ; intending, God wiUing, to have him
transported with my own body to be interred in our dor-
mitory in Wotton Church, in my dear native county of
Surrey, and to lay my bones and mingle my dust with my
fathers, if God be gracious to me, and majie me as fit for
Him as this blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify
this and all other my afflictions. Amen !*
Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even
mourning to the grave.
15th February. The afflicting hand of God being still
upon us, it pleased Him also to take away from us this
morning my youngest Son, George, now seven weeks lan-
guishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a dropsy.
God's holy will be done ! He was buried in Deptford
church, the 17th following.
25th. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and my brothers, with
other friends, to visit and condole with us.
7th March. To London, to hear Dr. Taylor in a private
house on Luke xiii. 23, 24. After the sermon, followed
the blessed Communion, of which I participated. In the
afternoon. Dr. Gxmning, at Exeter House, expounding part
of the Creed.
• In the Preface to his Translation of the "Golden Book of St. Chrysostom,
concerning the Education of Children," is likewise given a very interesting
account of this amiable and promising child. See Mr. Evelyn's '* Miscella-
neous Writings," 4to. 1825,;p. 105.
1658.] JOHN EVELYN. 327
This had been the severest winter that any man alive
had known in England. The crows' feet were frozen to
their prey. Islands of ice inclosed both fish and fowl
frozen, and some persons in their boats.
15th May, was a public fast, to avert an epidemical
sickness, very mortal this spring.
20th. I went to see a coach-race in Hyde Park, and col-
lationed in Spring Garden.
23rd. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preached
at Covent Garden, on Matthew vi. 10, showing what the
kingdom of God was, how pray for it, &c.
There was now a collection for persecuted and seques-
tered Ministers of the Church of England, whereof divers
are in prison. A sad day ! The Church now in dens and
caves of the earth.
31st. I went to visit my Lady Peterborough, whose son,
Mr. Mordaunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his
trial, and acquitted but by one voice; but that holy
martyr. Dr. Hewer, was condemned to die, without law,
jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State, as they
called it. A dangerous, treacherous time !
2nd June. An extraordinary storm of hail and rain,
the season as cold as winter, the wind northerly near six
months.
3rd. A large whale was taken betwixt my land abutting
on the Thames and Greenwich, which drew an infinite
concourse to see it, by water, horse, coach, and on foot,
from London, and all parts. It appeared first below Green-
wich at low water, for at high water it would have destroyed
all the boats, but lying now in shallow water encompassed
with boats, after a long conflict, it was killed with a harp-
ing iron, struck in the head, out of which spouted blood
and water by two tunnels; and, after a horrid groan, it ran
quite on shore, and died. Its length was fifty-eight feet,
height sixteen; black-skinned, hke coach-leather, very
small eyes, great tail, only two small fins, a peaked snout,
and a mouth so wide, that divers men might have stood
upright in it; no teeth, but sucked the slime only as
through a grate of that bone which we call whale-bone ;
the throat yet so narrow, as would not have admitted the
least of fishes. The extremes of the cetaceous bones hang
downwards from the upper jaw, and are hairy towards the
328 DIARY OF [godstomf,
ends and bottom within side : all of it prodigious ; but in
nothing more wonderful than that an animal of so great
a bulk should be nourished only by sHme through those
grates.
8th. That excellent preacher and holy man. Dr. Hewer,
was martyred for having inteUigence with his Majesty,*
through the Lord Marquis of Ormond.
9th. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pic-
tures, whereof that of the Venetian Senators f was one of
the best of Titian's, and another of Andrea del Sarto,
viz. a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an Old Woman ; a
St. Catharine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of Van-
dyck; a Nativity of Georgioni; the last of our blessed
Kings (Charles I.), and the Duke of York, by Lely, a
Rosary, by the famous Jesuits of Brussels, and several
more. This was in SujBFolk House : the new front towards
the gardens is tolerable, were it not drowned by a toa
massy and clumsy pair of stairs of stone, without any neat
invention.
10th. I went to see the Medical Garden, at Westminster,
well stored with plants, under Morgan, a very skilful
botanist.
26th. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. Owen.
3rd July. To London, and dined with Mr. Henshaw,
Mr. Dorell, and Mr. Ashmole, founder of the Oxford
repository of rarities, with divers doctors of physic and
virtuosos.
15th. Came to see my Lord Kilmurry and Lady, Sir
Robert Needham, Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my
Lord Willoughby, of Parham.
3rd August. Went to Sir John Evelyn, at Godstone.
The place is excellent, but might be improved by turning
some offices of the house, and removing the garden. Th&
house being a noble fabric, though not comparable to
what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all
the powder-mills.
5th. We went to SquirriesJ to visit my Cousin Leech,
• He was Miniater of St. Gregory's, London, and was beheaded on Tower"-
HiU.
+ The Comaro family, still one of the grand ornaments of Northimiberland-
House. There is a fine print of it engraved by Baron.
i At Westerham, in Kent.
1658.] JOHN EVELYN. 329
daughter to Sir John ; a pretty, finely wooded, well
watered seat, the stables good, the house old, but con-
venient. 6th. Returned to Wotton.
10th. I dined at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son
to the famous Sir Walter.
14th. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged
match at bowls for 10/., which we won.
18th. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betch worth Castle, in
that tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest
trees at Sayes Court, and did so much mischief all over
England. It continued the whole night ; and, till three in
the afternoon of the next day, in the south-west, and
destroyed all our winter fruit.
3rd September. Died that arch-rebel, OUver Cromwell,
called Protector.
16th. Was published my " Translation of St. Chrysos-
tom on Education of Children," which I dedicated to both
my brothers, to comfort them on the loss of their children.
21st. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, invited
me to dinner.
26th. Mr. King preached at Ashted, on Proverbs xv.
24; a Quaker would have disputed with him. In the
afternoon, we heard Dr. Hacket (since Bishop of Litch-
field) at Cheam, where the family of the Lumleys lie buried.
27th. To Beddington, that ancient seat of the Carews,
a fine old hall, but a scambling house, famous for the first
orange-gardens in England, being now overgrown trees,
planted in the ground, and secured in winter with a
wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seat is rarely watered,
lying low, and environed with good pastures. The pome-
granates bear here. To the house is also added a fine
park. Thence, to Carshalton, excellently watered, and
capable of being made a most delicious seat, being on the
sweet downs, and a champain about it full planted with
walnut and cherry-trees, which afford a considerable rent.
Riding over these downs, and discoursing with the
shepherds, I foimd that digging about the bottom near
Sir Christopher Buckle's,* near Banstead, divers medals
• This house is not far from the course of the Roman road from Chichester,
through Sussex, passing through Ockley, and Dorking church-yard.
Considerable remains of a Roman building have been found on Walton-heath,
south of this house.
^gj^ DIARY OF [lomdom,
have been found, both copper and silver, with foundations
of houses, urns, &c. Here, indeed, anciently stood a city
of the Romans. — See Antonine^s Itinerary.
29th. I returned home, after ten weeks^ absence.
3nd October. I went to London, to receive the Holy
Sacrament.
On the 3rd, Dr. Wild preached in a private place
on Isaiah i. 4, showing the parallel betwixt the sins
of Israel and those of England. In the afternoon,
Mr. Hall (son to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) on 1 Cor.
vi. 2, of the dignity of the Saints ; a most excellent dis-
course.
4th. I dined with the Holland Ambassador, at Derby
House : returning, I diverted to see a very while raven,
bred in Cumberland ; also a porcupine, of that kind that
shoots its quiUs, of which see Claudian ; it was headed like
a rat, the fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like a
bear.
19th. I was summoned to London, by the Commissioners
for new buildings; afterwards, to the Commission of Sewers j
but because there was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the
Government as now constituted without a King, I got to
be excused, and returned home.
22nd. Saw the superb funeral of the Protector. He
was carried from Somerset-House in a velvet bed of state,
drawn by six horses, housed with the same ; the pall held
by his new Lords ; OHver lying in effigy, in royal robes,
and crowned with a crown, sceptre, and globe, like a king.
The pendants and guidons were carried by the officers of
the army ; the Imperial banners, achievements, &c. by the
heralds in their coats ; a rich caparisoned horse, embroi-
dered all over with gold ; a knight of honour, armed cap-
a-pie, and, after all, his guards, soldiers, and innumerable
mourners. In this equipage, they proceeded to Westmin-
ster : but it was the joyfullest funeral I ever saw ; for
there were none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers
hooted away with a barbarous noise, drinking and taking
tobacco in the streets as they went.
I returned not home till the 17 th November.
I was summoned again to London by the Commissioners
for new foundations to be erected within such a distance
of London.
1659.] JOHN EVELYN. 331
6th December. Now was published my " French Gar-
dener/'* the first and best of the kind that introduced
the use of the Olitory garden to any purpose.
23rd. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my
cousin, George Tuke's, at Cressing Temple, in Essex. Lay
that night at Brentwood.
25th. Here was no public service, but what we privately
used. I blessed God for His mercies the year past ; and,
1st January, begged a continuance of them. Thus, for
three Sundays, by reason of the incumbent's death, here
was neither praying nor preaching, though there was a
chapel in the house.
1658-9. 17th January. Our old vicar preached, taking
leave of the parish in a pathetical speech, to go to a living
in the City.
24th March. I went to London, to speak to the patron.
Alderman Cuttler, about presenting a fit pastor for our
destitute parish-church.
5th April. Came the Earl of Northampton and the
famous painter, Mr. Wright,t to visit me.
10th. One Mr. Littler, being now presented to the
living of our parish, preached on John vi. 55, a sermon
preparatory to the Holy Sacrament.
25th. A wonderful and sudden change in the face of
the public ; the new Protector, Richard, sHghted ; several
pretenders and parties strive for the government: all
anarchy and confusion ; Lord have mercy on us !
5th May. I went to visit my brother in London; and,
next day, to see a new opera, J after the Itahan way, in
recitative music and scenes, much inferior to the Italian
composure and magnificence ; but it was prodigious that
in a time of such pubhc consternation such a vanity should
be kept up, or permitted. I, being engaged with company,
could not decently resist the going to see it, though my
heart smote me for it.
• The " Epistle Dedicatory to the French Gardener" is reprinted in " Mia-
oellaneous Writings," 4to., 1825, p. 97.
+ Mr. Michael Wright, who painted the twelve Judges in Guildhall, after
the great fire. There is a long account of him in " Walpole's Anecdotes of
Painting." See more of him under October 1662.
J Probably, Sir William Davenant's Opera, in which the cruelty of the Spa-
niards in Peru was expressed by instrumental and vocal music, and by art of
perspective in scenes, 4to, 1658. See the « Biographia Dramatica.**
332 DIARY OF [LONDON,
7th. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his Lady to
visit me, and staid the whole afternoon.
]2th. I returned the visit, discoursing much of the
revolutions, &c.
19th. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and
his son, a Scotch Lord and learned ; also my brother and
his Lady, Lord Berkeley and his Lady, Mrs. Shirley, and
the famous singer, Mrs. Knight,* and other friends.
23rd. I went to Rookwood,t and dined with Sir William
Hicks, where was a great feast and much company. It is
a melancholy old house, environed with trees and rooks.
26th. Came to see me my Lord George Berkeley, Sir
William Ducie, and Sir George Pottos son of Norfolk.
29th. The nation was now in extreme confusion and
unsettled, between the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor
Church of England breathing as it were her last ; so sad a
face of things had overspread us.
7th June. To London, to take leave of my brother, and
see the foundations now laying for a long street and build-
ings in Hatton-Garden, designed for a little town, lately
an ample garden.
1st September. I communicated to Mr. Robert Boyle,
son to the Earl of Cork, my proposal for erecting a philo-
sophic and mathematic college.
15th. Came to see me Mr. Brereton, a very learned
gentleman, son to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers
other ladies. Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since Duke
of Norfolk.
30th. I went to visit Sir William Ducie and Colonel
Blount, where I met Sir Henry Blount, the famous tra-
veller and water-drinker.
10th October. I came with my wife and family to
* Afterwards, one of Charles the Second's mistresses.
+ This was a house in Layton, in Essex, better known by the name of Rock-
holt, or Ruckholt, built by Mr. Parvish, a former owner of the estate ; but a
new house was afterwards erected near the site of the former by the family
of Hicks, of whom William was created a baronet, in 1619. King Charles II.
was entertained here one day when he was hunting, and knighted WiUiam,
the son of the Baronet. Morant, in his " History of Essex," vol. I., p. 24,
printed 1768, speaks of the new house as haring been a beautiful one, pulled
down some years ago. Previously to this, it had been a place of pubUc
entertainment in a morning, at which visitors were regaled with tea and
music, which is not mentioned by Morant.
1659.] JOHN EVELYN. 333
London : took lodgings at the Three Feathers, in Russell
Street, Covent Garden, for the winter, my son being very
unwell.
11th. Came to visit me Mr. William Coventry (since
Secretary to the Duke), son to the Lord Keeper, a wise
and witty gentleman.
The Army now turned out the Parhament. We had
now no government in the nation ; all in confusion ; no
magistrate, either owned or pretended, but the soldiers,
and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on, and
settle us !
17th. I visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel-house, who
gave me a fair onyx set in gold, and showed me his design
of a palace there.
21st. A private Fast was kept by the Church of Eng-
land Protestants in town, to beg of God the removal of
His judgments, with devout prayers for His mercy to our
calamitous Church.
7th November. Was published my bold " Apology for
the King" * in this time of danger, when it was capital
to speak or write in favour of him. It was twice printed;
so universally it took.
9th. We observed our solemn Fast for the calamity of
our Church.
12th. I went to see the several drugs for the confection
of treacle, dioscordium, and other electuaries, which an
ingenious apothecary had not only prepared and ranged
on a large and very long table, but covered every ingre-
dient with a sheet of paper, on which was very lively
painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it
plant, flower, animal, or other exotic drug.
15th. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in
a manner acknowledge that his nation mind only their
own profit, do nothing out of gratitude, but collaterally as
it relates to their gain, or security ; and therefore the Eng-
lish were to look for nothing of assistance to the banished
King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, though
an ingenuous confession.
18th. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and
preached on Phil. ii. 12, 13.
24th. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the
♦ Reprinted in Evelj-n's "Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1 825, pp. 1 69— 1 92.
334 DIARY OP [lohdoh,
forty-first wedding-day feast, where was mucli company of
friends.
26th. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers
learned and worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr.
Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, and others.
9th December. I supped with Mr. Gunning, it being
our fast-day, Dr. Feame, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain,
Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild,* and other devout and learned
divines, firm confessors, and excellent persons. Note:
Most of them since made bishops.
10th. I treated privately with Colonel Morley,t then
Lieutenant of the Tower, and in great trust and power,
concerning delivering it to the King, and the bringing
of him in, to the great hazard of my life, but the Colonel
had been my school-fellow, and I knew would not
betray me.
12th. I spent in public concerns for his Majesty, pur-
suing the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his bro-
ther-in-law. Fay, Governor of Portsmouth.
18th. Preached that famous divine. Dr. Sanderson,
(since Bishop of Lincoln), now eighty years old, on
Jer. XXX. 13, concerning the evil of forsaking God.
29th. Came my Lord Count Arundel of Wardour, to
visit me. I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague.
31st. Settling my domestic affairs in order, blessed God
for his infinite mercies and preservations the past year.
Annus Mirabilis, 1659-60. January 1. Begging God's
blessings for the following year, I went to Exeter Chapel,
when Mr. Gunning began the year on Galatians iv. 3 — 7,
showing the love of Christ in shedding his blood so
early for us.
12th, Wrote to Colonel Morley again to declare for his
Majesty.
22nd. I went this afternoon to visit Colonel Morley.
After dinner, I discoursed with him; but he was very
jealous, and would not beheve that Monk came in to do
* See p. 31 6. He was of St. John's College, Oxford, Chaplain to Arch-
bishop Laud, Vicar of St. Giles's, Reading. Adhering to the King, he
preached before the Parliament, at Oxford. After the Restoration, he was
made Bishop of Londonderry, in Ireland. He had kept up a religious meet-
ing for the Royalists, in Fleet Street. Wood's Athenae, vol. II., p. 251.
+ See the detailed account of Mr. Evelyn's communications with Colonel
Morley, in the Illustrations hereafter. No. II.
1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 335
the King any service ; I told him he might do it without
him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtful, and
would resolve on nothing yet, so I took leave.*
3rd February. Kept the Fast. General Monk came
now to London out of Scotland ; but no man knew what
he would do, or declare, yet he was met on his way by the
gentlemen of all the counties which he passed, with peti-
tions that he would recall the old long interrupted Parlia-
ment, and settle the nation in some order, being at this
time in most prodigious confusion, and under no govern-
ment, everybody expecting what would be next, and what
he would do.
10th. Now were the gates of the city broken down by
General Monk ; which exceedingly exasperated the city,
the soldiers marching up and down as triumphing over it,
and all the old army of the fanatics put out of their posts,
and sent out of town.
11th. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous
and wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped
the supreme power, and having inteUigence that they
intended to take away his commission, repenting of what
he had done to the city, and where he and his forces were
quartered, marches to Whitehall, dissipates that nest of
robbers, and convenes the old Parhament, the Rump
Parliament (so called as retaining some few rotten mem-
bers of the other) being dissolved; and for joy whereof
were many thousand of rumps roasted publicly in the
streets at the bonfires this night,t with ringing of bells,
and universal jubilee. This was the first good omen.
From 17th February to 5th April, I was detained in bed
with a kind of double tertian, the cruel effects of the
spleen and other distempers, in that extremity that my
physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, were
in great doubt of my recovery; but it pleased God to
deliver me out of this affliction, for which I render him
hearty thanks ; going to church the 8th, and receiving the
blessed Eucharist.
During this sickness, came divers of my relations and
friends to visit me, and it retarded my going into the
country longer than I intended; however, I writ and
• See Note in the preceding page.
+ Pamphlets with cuts representing this, were printed at fhe time.
336 DIARY OP [LONDON,
printed a letter, in defence of his Majesty,* against a
wicked forged Paper, pretended to be sent from Brussels
to defame his Majesty^s person and virtues, and render
him odious, now when everybody was in hope and expec-
tation of the General and Parliament recalling him, and
estabhshing the Government on its ancient and right
basis. The doing this towards the decline of my sickness,
and sitting up long in my bed, had caused a small relapse,
out of which it yet pleased God also to free me, so as by
the 14th I was able to go into the country, which I did to
my sweet and native air at Wotton.
3rd May. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's
gracious declaration and applications to the Parhament,
General, and People, and their dutiful acceptance and
acknowledgment, after a most bloody and unreasonable
rebeUion of near twenty years. Praised be for ever the
Lord of Heaven, who only doeth wondrous things, because
His mercy endureth for ever !
8th. This day was his Majesty proclaimed in Lon-
don, &c.
9th. I was desired and designed to accompany my
Lord Berkeley with the public Address of the Parliament,
General, &c. to the King, and invite him to come over
and assume his Kingly Government, he being now at
Breda ; but I was yet so weak, I could not make that
journey by sea, which was not a httle to my detriment, so
I went to London to excuse myself, returning the 10th,
having yet received a gracious message from his Majesty
by Major Scot and Colonel Tuke.
24th. Came to me Colonel Morley, about procuring his
pardon, now too late, seeing his error and neglect of the
counsel I gave him, by which, if he had taken it, he had
certainly done the great work with the same ease that
Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a
post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and
fear kept him from that blessing and honour. I addressed
him to Lord Mordaunt, then in great favour, for his par-
don, which he obtained at the cost of 1000/., as I heai'd.
O the sottish omission of this gentleman ! what did I not
* The title of it is, " The late News, or Message from Brussels, unmasked."
This, and the pamphlet which gave occasion for it, are reprinted in " Evelyn's
Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, pp. 193 — 204.
1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 337
undergo of danger in this negociation, to have brought
him over to his Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in
his hands !
29th. This day, his Majesty Charles the Second came to
London, after a sad and long exile and calamitous suffer-
ing both of the King and Church, being seventeen years.
This was also his birth-day, and with a triumph of above
20,000 horse and foot, brandishing their swords, and shout-
ing, with inexpressible joy; the ways strewed with flowers,
the bells ringing, the streets hung with tapestry, fountains
running with wine; the Mayor, Aldermen, and all the
Companies, in their liveries, chains of gold, and banners ;
Lords and Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold, and velvet ;
the windows and balconies, all set with ladies ; trumpets,
music, and myriads of people flocking, even so far as
from Rochester, so as they were seven hours in passing
the city, even from two in the afternoon till nine at night.
I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and blessed God.
And all this was done without one drop of blood shed,
and by that very army which rebelled against him ; but it
was the Lord's doing, for such a restoration was never
mentioned in any history, ancient or modem, since the
return of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity ; nor so
joyful a day and so bright ever seen in this nation, this
happening when to expect or efifect it was past all human
policy.
4th June. I received letters of Sir Richard Browne's
landing at Dover, and also letters from the Queen, which
I was to deliver at Whitehall, not as yet presenting my-
self to his Majesty, by reason of the infinite concourse or
people. The eagerness of men, women, and children, to
see his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so great, that he
had scarce leisure to eat for some days, coming as they
did from all parts of the nation; and the King^ being as
wilUng to give them that satisfaction, would have none
kept out, but gave free access to all sorts of people.
Addressing myself to the Duke, I was carried to his-
Majesty, when very few noblemen were with him, and
kissed his hands, being very graciously received. I then
returned home, to meet Sir Richard Browne, who came
not till the 8th, after nineteen years exile, during all which
time he kept up in his chapel the liturgy and offices of the
VOL. I. z
338 DIARY OF [LONDON,
Church of England, to his no small honour, and in a time
when it was so low, and as many thought utterly lost, that
in various controversies both with Papists and Sectaries,
our divines used to argue for the visibility of the Church,
from his chapel and congregation.
I was all this week to and fro at Court, about business.
16th. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers, came
to make their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope
pronouncing the harangue with great eloquence.
18th. I proposed the embassy of Constantinople for
Mr. Henshaw ; but my Lord Winchelsea struck in.*
Goods that had been pillaged from Whitehall during the
Kebellion, were now daily brought in, and restored upon
proclamation ; as plate, hangings, pictures, &c.
21st. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires
and chief towns in all the three nations) presented their
congratulatory Address. It was carried by my Lord
Northampton.
30th. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Address,
to which was my hand. I went with it, and kissed his
Majesty^s hand, who was pleased to own me more particu-
larly by calhng me his old acquaintance, and speaking very
graciously to me.
3rd July. I went to Hyde-park, where was his Majesty,
and abundance of gallantry.
4th. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke harangue to the House
of Lords, in behalf of the Roman Catholics, and his ac-
count of the transaction at Colchester in murdering Lord
Capel, and the rest of those brave men that suffered in
cold blood, after articles of rendition.
5th. I saw his Majesty go with as much pomp and
splendour as any earthly prince could do to the great City
feast, the first they had invited him to since his return ;
but the exceeding rain which fell all that day much echpsed
its lustres. This was at GuildhaU, and there was also all
the Parhament-men, both Lords and Commons. The
streets were adorned with pageants, at immense cost.
6th. His Majesty began first to touch for the evil,
* It was on his return from this embassy that his Lordship, visiting Sicily,
was an eye-witness of the dreadful eruption of Mount Etna, in 1669, a short
account of which was afterwards published in a small pamphlet, with a cut by
Hollar, of the mountain, &c.
1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 339
according to custom, thus : his Majesty sitting under his
state in the Banqueting-house, the chirurgeons cause the
sick to be brought, or led, up to the throne, where they
kneehng, the King strokes their faces, or cheeks, with both
his hands at once, at which instant a chaplain in his for-
malities says, " He put his hands upon them, and he
healed them." This is said to every one in particular.
When they have been all touched, they come up again in
the same order, and the other chaplain kneehng, and hav-
ing angel gold* strung on white ribbon on his arm, delivers
them one by one to his Majesty, who puts them about the
necks of the touched as they pass, whilst the first chaplain
repeats, " That is the true fight who came into the world."
Then follows, an epistle (as at first a Gospel) with the
Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration; lastly,
the blessing; and then the Lord Chamberlain and the
Comptroller of the Household bring a basin, ewer and
towel, for his Majesty to wash.
The King received a congratulatory address from the
city of Cologne, in Germany, where he had been some
time in his exile ; his Majesty saying they were the best
people in the world, the most kind and worthy to him that
he ever met with.
I recommended Monsieur Messeray to be Judge Advo-
cate in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with
the Earl of St. Alban's; and saluted my excellent and
worthy noble friend, my Lord Ossory, son to the Marquis
of Ormond, after many years' absence returned home.
8th. Mr. Henchman preached on Ephes. v. 5, concern-
ing Christian circumspection. From henceforth, was the
Liturgy publicly used in our churches, whence it had been
for so many years banished.
15th. Came Sir George Carteret and Lady, to visit us :
he was now Treasurer of the Navy.
28th. I heard his Majesty^s speech in the Lords' House,
on passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage ; restoration
of my Lord Ormond to his estate in Ireland ; concerning
the Commission of Sewers, and continuance of the Excise.
— In the afternoon, I saluted my old friend, the Archbishop
of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall) . He
presented several Irish divines to be promoted as Bishops
* Pieces of money, so called from having the figure of an angel on them.
z2
31,0 DIARY OF [LONDON,
in that kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdom*
being now ahnost worn out, and the sees vacant.
31st. I went to visit Sir Phihp "Warwick, now Secretary
to the Lord Treasurer, at his house in North Cray.
19th August. Our Vicar read the Thirty-nine Articles to
the congregation, the national assemblies beginning now to
settle, and wanting instruction.
23rd. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several
Scottish Lords, to see my garden.
25th. Colonel Spencer, Colonel of a regiment of horse
in owe county of Kent, sent to me, and entreated that I
would take a commission for a troop of horse, and that I
would nominate my Lieutenant and Ensigns ; I thanked
him for the honour intended me ; but would by no means
undertake the trouble.
4th September. I was invited to an ordination by the
Bishop of Bangor, in Henry VII.'s Chapel, Westminster,
and afterwards saw the audience of an Envoyee from the
Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his Majesty's return.
5th. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoy6e of the
King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, &g.
7th. I went to Chelsea, to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his
pneumatic engine perform divers experiments. Thence, to
Kensington, to visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that
evening.
13th. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair,
monkeys and apes dance, and do other feats of activity, on
the high rope ; they were gallantly clad a la monde, went
upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their
hats ; they saluted one another with as good a grace, as if
instructed by a dancing-master; they turned heels over
head with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking
any; also, with lighted candles in their hands, and on their
heads, without extinguishing them, and with vessels of water
without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian wench dance,
and perform all the tricks on the high rope, to admiration ;
aU the Court went to see her. Likewise, here was a man
who took up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 lb. weight
with the hair of his head only.
17th. Went to London, to see the splendid entry of the
Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spain ;
he was General of the Spanish King's horse in Flanders,
1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 341
and was accompanied with divers great persons from thence,
and an innumerable retinue. His train consisted of seven-
teen coaches, with six horses of his own, besides a great
number of Enghsh, &c. Greater bravery had I never seen.
He Avas received in the Banqueting House in exceeding
state, all the great officers of Court attending.
13th. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee, the Duke
of Gloucester died of the small-pox, in the prime of youth,
and a prince of extraordinary hopes.
27th. The King received the merchants' addresses in
his closet, giving them assurances of his persisting to keep
Jamaica, choosing Sir Edward Massey, Governor. In the
afternoon, the Danish Ambassador's condolences were pre-
sented, on the death of the Duke of Gloucester. This
evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Prince of
Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period.
6th October. I paid the great tax of poll-money, levied
for disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an
Esquire 10/., and one shilling for every servant in my
house.
7th. There dined with me a French Count, with Sir
George Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sent
over to the Queen-Mother, to break the marriage of the
Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hyde. The Queen
would fain have undone it, but it seems matters were
reconciled on great offers of the Chancellor's to befriend
the Queen, who was much in debt, and was now to have
the settlement of her affairs go through his hands.
11th. The regicides who sat on the life of our late King,
were brought to trial in the Old Bailey, before a commission
of Oyer and Terminer.
14th. AxtaU, Carew, Clement, Hacker, Hewson, and
Peters, were executed.
17th. Scot, Scroope, Cook, and Jones, suffered for
reward of their iniquities at Charing Cross, in sight of the
place where they put to death their natural Prince, and in
the presence of the King his son, whom they also sought
to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their quarters,
mangled, and cut, and reeking, as they were brought from
the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh, the miraculous
providence of God !
28th. His Majesty went to meet the Queen-Mother.
342 DIARY OP [LONDON,
39th. Going to London, my Lord Mayor's show stopped
me in Cheapside ; one of the pageants represented a great
wood, with the royal oak, and history of his Majesty's
miraculous escape, at Boscobel.
31st. Arrived now to my fortieth year, I rendered to
Almighty God my due and hearty thanks.
Isf November. I went with some of my relations to
Court, to show them his Majesty's cabinet and closet of
rarities ; the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, after Raphael,
Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely esteem ; also,
that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done in enamel,
by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes, and
intaglios, especially a medallion of Caesar, as broad as my
hand ; Ukewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa ; a land-
scape of needlework, formerly presented by the Dutch to
King Charles the First. Here I saw a vast book of maps,
in a volume near four yards large ; a curious ship model ;
and, amongst the clocks, one that showed the rising and
setting of the sun in the zodiac; the sun represented byaface
and rnjs of gold, upon an azure sky, observing the diurnal
and annual motion, rising and setting behind a landscape
of hills, the work of our famous Fromantil ; and several
other rarities.
3rd, Arrived the Queen-Mother in England, whence
she had been banished almost twenty years ; together with
her illustrious daughter, the Princess Henrietta, divers
Princes and Noblemen, accompanying them.
15th. I kissed the Queen-Mother's hand.
20th. I dined at the Clerk Comptroller's of the Green
Cloth, being the first day of the re-establishment of the
Coiu*t diet, and settling of his Majesty's household.
23rd. Being this day in the bedchamber of the Princess
Henrietta, where were many great beauties and noblemen,
I saluted divers of my old friends and acquaintances abroad;
his Majesty carrying my Wife to salute the Queen and
Princess, and then led her into his closet, and with his own
hands showed her divers curiosities.
25th. Dr. Rainbow preached before the King, on Luke,
ii. 14, of the glory to be given God for all His mercies,
especially for restoring the Church and government ; now
the service was performed with music, voices, &c., as
formerly.
1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 343
27th. Came down the Clerk Comptroller [of the Green
Cloth] by the Lord Steward^s appointment, to survey the
land at Sayes Court, on which I had pretence, and to make
his report.*
6th December. I waited on my Brother and Sister
Evelyn to Court. Now were presented to his Majesty
those two rare pieces of drollery, or rather a Dutch Kitchen,
painted by Dowe, so finely as hardly to be distinguished
from enamel. I was also showed divers rich jewels and
crystal vases ; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, Titian's master;
Christ in the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci ; two incom-
parable heads, by Holbein; the Queen-Mother in aminiature,
almost as big as the hfe ; an exquisite piece of carving ;
two unicorn's horns, &c. This in the closet.
13th. I presented my Son, John, to the Queen-Mother,
who kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much
of him.
14th. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchioness of
Ormond, and Countess of Guildford, all of whom we had
known abroad in exile.
18th. I carried Mr. SpeUman, a most ingenious
gentleman, grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my
Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had recommended him as
Secretary.
21st. This day died the Princess of Orange, of the small-
pox, which entirely altered the face and gallantry of the
whole Court.
22nd, The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being
now newly owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard
Browne's intimate acquaintance when she waited on the
Princess of Orange; she was now at her father's, at
Worcester-House, in the Strand. We all kissed her hand,
as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and
Countess of Northumberland. This was a strange change
— can it succeed well? — I spent the evening at St.
James's, whither the Princess Henrietta was retired
during the fatal sickness of her sister, the Princess of
♦ The King's Household used to be supplied with com and cattle from the
different counties : and, oxen being sent up, pasture-grounds of the King, near
town, were allotted for them : amongst these, were lands at Deptford and
Tottenham-Court, which were under the direction of the Lord Steward and
Board of Green Cloth. Sir Richard Browne had the keeping of the lands at
Deptford.
344 DIARY OF [LONDON,
Orange, now come over to salute the King her brother.
The Princess gave my Wife an extraordinary compliment
and gracious acceptance, for the " Character ^^* she had
presented her the day before, and which was afterwards
printed.
25th. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle, Clerk of his
Majesty^s Closet, and my dear friend, now Dean of West-
minster, on Luke ii. 13, 14, condoling the breach made in
the public joy by the lamented death of the Princess.
30th. I dined at Court with Mr. Crane, Clerk of the
Green Cloth.
31st. I gave God thanks for his many signal mercies to
myself, church, and nation, this wonderful year.
1660-1. 2nd January. The Queen-Mother, with the
Princess Henrietta, began her journey to Portsmouth, in
order to her return into Prance.
5th. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom
I had been well acquainted abroad.
6th. Dr. AUestree preached at the Abbey, after which
four Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich, ....
This night was suppressed a bloody insurrection of some
Fifth-Monarchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examined
at the Council the next day; but could say nothing to
extenuate their madness and unwarrantable zeal.
I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majesty for
one of the Council) by suffrage of the rest of the Members,
a Fellow of the Philosophic Society now meeting at
Gresham College, where was an assembly of divers learned
gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King's
return ; but it had been begun some years before at Oxford,
and was continued with interruption here in London during
the Rebellion.
There was another rising of the fanatics, in which some
were slain.
16th. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examined
the Torricellian experiment. I presented my Circle of
Mechanical Trades, and had recommended to me the
publishing what I had written of Chalcography.f
25th. After divers years since I had seen any play, I
• " A Character of England," reprinted in Evelyn's " Miscellaneous
Writings," 4to, 1825, pp. 141—167.
t See hereafter, under June 10th, 1G62.
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 345
went to see acted "The Scornful Lady," at a new theatre
in Lincoln^s-Inn-Fields.
30th. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation
to deplore the sins which so long had provoked God against
this afflicted church and people, ordered by Parliament to
be annually celebrated to expiate the guilt of the execrable
murder of the late King.
This day (O the stupendous and inscrutable judgments
■of God !) were the carcases of those arch-rebels, CromweU,
Bradshawe, (the judge who condemned his Majesty), and
Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), dragged out of their
superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburn,
and hanged on the gallows there from nine in the morning
till six at night, and then buried under that fatal and
ignominious monument in a deep pit ; thousands of people
who had seen them in aU their pride being spectators. Look
back at October 22, 1658,* [Oliver's funeral], and be asto-
nished ! and fear God and honour the King ; but meddle
not with them who are given to change !
6th February. To London, to our Society, where I gave
notice of the visit of the Danish Ambassador-Extraordinary,
and was ordered to return him their acceptance of that
honour, and to invite him the next meeting day.
10th. Dr. Baldero preached at Ely-House, on Matthew
vi., 33, of seeking early the kingdom of God; after
sermon, the Bishop (Dr. Wren) gave us the blessing, very
pontifically.
13th. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting
at Gresham College, where were showed him various
experiments in vacuo, and other curiosities.
21st. Prince Rupert first showed me how to grave in
mezzo tinto.
26th. I went to Lord Mordaunt's, at Parson's Green.f
27th. Ash- Wednesday. Preached before the King the
Bishop of London (Dr. Sheldon) on Matthew xviii. 25,
concerning charity and forgiveness.
8th. March. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and
* P. 330.
+ This house remained in the family till 17.., when the Earl of Peter-
borough sold it to Mr. Heaviside, who a few years after sold it to Mr.
Merrick, an army agent ; he pulled down the old house, and built that now
standing there.
346 DIARY OF [LONDON,
delivered to Mm the state of my concernment at Saves
Court.
9th. I went with that excellent person and philosopher.
Sir Robert Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw
divers effects of the eolipile for weighing air,
13th. I went to Lambeth, with Sir E,. Browne's pretence
to the Wardenship of Merton College, Oxford, to which, as
having been about forty years before a student of that
House, he was elected by the votes of every Fellow except
one : but the statutes of the House being so that, unless
every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor,
who is the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his
Grace gave his nomination to Sir T. Clayton, resident
there, and the Physic Professor ; for which I was not at all
displeased, because, though Sir E-ichard missed it by much
ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being
no Fellow), yet it would have hindered Sir Richard from
attending at Court to settle his greater concerns, and so
have prejudiced me, though he was much inclined to have
passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for him at
that time, for many reasons. So I took leave of his
Grace, who was formerly Lord Treasurer in the reign of
Charles I.
This afternoon. Prince Rupert showed me, with his own
hands, the new way of graving, called mezzo tinto, which
afterwards, by his permission, I pubhshed in my " History
of Chalcography;"* this set so many artists on work, that
they soon arrived to the perfection it is since come to,
emulating the tenderest miniatures.
Our Society now gave in my relation of the Peak of
Teneriffe, in the Great Canaries, to be added to more
queries concerning divers natural things reported of that
island.
I returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, now going for
France, as sent by his Majesty to condole the death of that
great Minister and politician. Cardinal Mazarine.
29th. Dr. Heyhn (author of the Geography) preached
at the Abbey, on Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and
charity ; he was, I think, at this time quite dark, and so
had been for some years.
31st. This night, his Majesty promised to make my Wife
• See hereafter, under June 10, 1662.
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 347
Lady of the Jewels (a very honourable charge) to the future
Queen (but which he never performed).
1st April. I dined with that great mathematician and
virtuoso. Monsieur Zuhchem,* inventor of the pendule
dock, and discoverer of the phenomenon of Satiu-n^s
annulus : he was elected into our Society.
19th. To London, and saw the bathing and rest of the
ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the
coronation ; it was in the Painted Chamber, Westminster.
I might have received this honour; but declined it. The
rest of the ceremony was in the chapel at Whitehall, when
their swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop delivered
them.
22nd. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majesty from
the Tower of London to Whitehall, when I saw him in
the Banquetting House create six Earls, and as many
Barons, viz.
Edward Lord Hyde,t Lord Chancellor, Earl of Claren-
don; supported by the Earls of Northumberland and
Sussex ; the Earl of Bedford, carried the cap and coronet,
the Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of Newport, the
mantle.
Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex ;
Brudenell, . . . Cardigan;
Valentia, .... Anglesea;
Greenvill, .... Bath; and
Howard, Earl of Carlisle.
The Barons were : Denzill Holies ; Comwallis ; Booth ;
Townsend ; Cooper ; Crew ; who were all led up by several
Peers, with Garter and officers of arms before them ; when,
after obedience on their several approaches to the throne,
their patents were presented by Garter King-at-Arms,
• See hereafter, under July, 1664.
+ In 1656, or 1657, attempts were made to remove the Chancellor (Hyde),
by accusing him of betraying his Majesty's Counsels, and holding correspond-
ence with Cromwell ; but these allegations were so trivial and frivolous, that
they manifestly appeared to be nothing but the effects of malice against him,
and therefore produced the contrai'y effects to those which some desired, and
strengthened the King's kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to
believe that these suggestions against him proceeds! all from one and the
same cause, namely, from the ambition which some people had to enter in his
room into the first trust of his Majesty's affairs, if once they could remove
him from his station. Life of King James II., from his own papers, 1816,
vol. I., p. 274.
348 DIARY OF [LONDON,
•whicli being received by the Lord Chamberlain, and
delivered to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary
of State, were read, and then again delivered to his
Majesty, and by him to the several Lords created; they
were then robed, their coronets and collars put on by his
Majesty, and they were placed in rank on both sides the
state and throne ; but the Barons put off their caps and
circles, and held them in their hands, the Earls keeping on
their coronets, as cousins to the King.
I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the several
arch-triumphals built in the streets at several eminent
places through which his Majesty was next day to pass,
some of which, though temporary, and to stand but one
year, were of good invention and architecture, with
inscriptions.
23rd. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles the
Second in the Abbey-Church of Westminster ; at all which
ceremony I was present. The King and his Nobility went
to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount Mordaunt
part of the way ; this was on Sunday, the 22nd ; but indeed
his Majesty went not till early this morning, and proceeded
from thence to Westminster, in this order :*
First, went the Duke of York^s Horse Guards. Mes-
sengers of the Chamber. 136 Esquires to the Knights
of the Bath, each of whom had two, most richly habited.
The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter. Sewers of the
Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clerks of Chancery.
Clerk of the Signet. Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks of
the Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crown. Chap-
lains in ordinary having dignities, 10. King's Advocates and
Remembrancer. Council at Law. Masters of the Chan-
cery. Puisne Serjeants. King's Attorney and Solicitor.
King's eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the French and
Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers, Daily Waiters, Sewers,
Carvers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the
Body, 4. Masters of standing offices, being no Coun-
sellors, viz., of the Tents, Revels, . Ceremonies, Armoury,
Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlain of the
Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord Chief-
• There is a full account of this ceremony, with fine sculptures, in a folio
volume, published by John Ogilby, 1662. " A circumstantial Account of the
Coronation," by Sir E. Walker, Garter, was published in 1820.
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 349
Baron. Lord Chief- Justice of the Common Pleas. Master
of the Rolls. Lord Chief- Justice of England. Trumpets.
Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. Knights of the Bath,
68, in crimson robes, exceeding rich, and the noblest show
of the whole cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. Knight
Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the
Jewels. Lords of the Privy Council. Comptroller of the
Household. Treasurer of the Household. Trumpets.
Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Arms. Barons.
Tvvo Pursuivants at Arms. Viscounts. Two Heralds.
Earls. Lord Chamberlain of the Household. Two He-
ralds. Marquises. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and Nor-
roy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High Steward of England.
Two persons representing the Dukes of Normandy and
Acquitaine, viz., Sir Richard Fanshawe and Sir Herbert
Price, in fantastic habits of the time. Gentlemen Ushers.
Garter. Lord Mayor of London. The Duke of York
alone (the rest by two's). Lord High Constable of
England. Lord Great Chamberlain of England. The
sword borne by the Earl Marshal of England. The KING,
in royal robes and equipage. Afterwards, followed equer-
ries, footmen, gentlemen pensioners. Master of the Horse,
leading a horse richly caparisoned. Vice-Chamberlain.
Captain of the Pensioners. Captain of the Guard. The
Guard. The Horse- Guard. The troop of Volunteers,
with many other officers and gentlemen.
This magnificent train on horseback, as rich as em-
broidery, velvet, cloth of gold and silver, and jewels, could
make them and their prancing horses, proceeded through
the streets strewed with flowers, houses hung with rich
tapestry, windows and balconies full of ladies ; the London
militia lining the ways, and the several companies, with
their banners and loud music, ranked in their orders ; the
fountains running wine, bells ringing, with speeches made
at the several triumphal arches; at that of the Temple
Bar (near which I stood) the Lord Mayor was received by
the Baihff of Westminster, who, in a scarlet robe, made a
speech. Thence, with joyful acclamations, his Majesty
passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at njght.
The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to
Westminster Abbey. When his Majesty was entered, the
Dean and Prebendaries brought all the regalia, and
350 DIARY OF [LONDON,
delivered them to several noblemen to bear before the
King, who met them at the west door of the church,
singing an anthem, to the choir. Then, came the peers, in
their robes, and coronets in their hands, till his Majesty
was placed on a throne elevated before the altar. After-
wards, the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury-
being sick) went to every side of the throne to present the
King to the people, asking if they would have him for
their King, and do him homage ; at this, they shouted fom*
times " God save King Charles the Second ! " Then, an
anthem was sung. His Majesty, attended by three Bishops,
went up to the altar, and he oflered a pall and a pound of
gold. Afterwards, he sate down in another chair during
the sermon, which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of
Worcester.
After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar
to maintain the religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the
land. The hymn Veni S. Sp. followed, and then the
Litany by two Bishops. Then, the Archbishop of Canter-
bury, present but much indisposed and weak, said " Lift
up your hearts ; " at which, the King rose up, and put off
his robes and upper garments, and was in a waistcoat so
opened in divers places, that the Archbishop might com-
modiously anoint him, first in the palms of his hands,
when an anthem was sung, and a prayer read ; then, his
breast and betwixt the shoulders, bending of both arms; and,
lastly, on the crown of the head, with apposite hymns and
prayers at each anointing ; this done, the Dean closed and
buttoned up the waistcoat. After which, was a coif put
on, and the cobbium, sindon or dalmatic, and over this a
super-tunic of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of
the same, spurs, and the sword ; a prayer being first said
over it by the Archbishop on the altar, before it was girt
on by the Lord Chamberlain. Then, the armill, mantle, &c.
Then, the Archbishop placed the crown-imperial on the
altar, prayed over it, and set it on his Majesty's head, at
which all the Peers put on their coronets. Anthems, and
rare music, with lutes, viols, trumpets, organs, and voices,
were then heard, and the Archbishop put a ring on his
Majesty's finger. The King next offered his sword on the
altar, which being redeemed, was drawn, and borne before
him. Then, the Archbishop delivered him the sceptre, with
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 351
the dove in one hand, and, in the other, the sceptre with
the globe. The King kneehng, the Archbishop pronounced
the blessing. His Majesty then ascending again his royal
throne, whilst Te Deum was singing, all the Peers did their
homage, by every one touching his crown. The Arch-
bishop, and the rest of the Bishops, first kissing the King ;
who received the Holy Sacrament, and so disrobed, yet
with the crown-imperial on his head, and accompanied
with all the nobility in the former order, he went on foot
upon blue cloth, which was spread and reached from the
west door of the Abbey to Westminster stairs, when he
took water in a triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was
extraordinary feasting.
24th. I presented his Majesty with his "Panegyric"*
in the Privy Chamber, which he was pleased to accept
most graciously ; I gave copies to the Lord Chancellor,
and most of the noblemen who came to me for it. I dined
at the Marquis of Ormondes, where was a magnificent feast,
and many great persons.
1st May. I went to Hyde Park to take the air, where
was his Majesty and an innumerable appearance of gal-
lants and rich coaches, being now a time of universal
festivity and joy.
2nd. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my
title to Sayes Court.
3rd. I went to see the wonderful engine for weaving
silk stockings, said to have been the invention of an Oxford
scholar forty years since ; and I returned by Fromantil's,
the famous clock-maker, to see some pendules, Monsieur
Zulichem being with us.
This evening, I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sir Robert
Murray, Sir Patrick Neill, Monsieur Zuhchem, and Bull
(all of them of our Society, and excellent mathematicians),
to show his Majesty, who was present, Saturn's annulus,
as some thought, but as Zuhchem affirmed with his balteus
(as that learned gentleman had published), very near
eclipsed by the moon, near the Mons Porphyritis ; also,
Jupiter and satellites, through his Majesty's great telescope,
drawing thirty-five feet ; on which were divers discourses.
8th. His Majesty rode in state, with his imperial crown
• Viz. a Poem on his Majesty's Coronation, the 23rd of April, 1661, bdng
St Greorge's day.
352 DIARY OP [LONDON,
on, and all the peers in their robes, in great pomp to the
parliament now newly chosen (the old one being dissolved) ;
and, that evening, declared in council his intention to marry
the Infanta of Portugal.
9th. At Sir Robert Murray^ s, where I met Dr. Wallis,
Professor of Geometry in Oxford, where was discourse of
several mathematical subjects.
11th. My Wife presented to his Majesty the Madonna
she had copied in miniature from P. Oliver's painting,,
after Raphael, which she wrought with extraordinary pains
and judgment. The King was infinitely pleased with it,,
and caused it to be placed in his cabinet amongst his best
paintings.
13th. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of
scholars at Westminster School to be sent to the Univer-
sity in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and
extemporary verses, as wonderfully astonished me in such
youths, with such readiness and wit, some of them not
above twelve, or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, that
what they attain here so ripely, they either do not retain,
or do not improve more considerably when they come to
be men, though many of them do ; and no less is to be
blamed their odd pronouncing of Latin, so that out of*
England none were able to understand, or endure it. The
examinants, or posers, were. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor
at Cambridge ; Dr. Pell, Dean of Christ-Church, Oxford ;
Dr. Pierson, Dr. AUestree, Dean of Westminster, and any
that would.
14th. His Majesty was pleased to discourse with me
concerning several particulars relating to oiir Society, and
the planet, Saturn, &c., as he sate at supper in the with-
drawing-room to his bed-chamber.
16th. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the resident from
Hamburgh, who continued his feast near nine whole
hours, according to the custom of his country, though
there was no great excess of drinking, no man being
obhged to take more than he liked.
2;ind. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common
hangman in divers places in London. Oh, prodigious^
change !
29th. This was the first anniversary appointed by Act
of Parliament to be observed as a day of General Thanks-
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 353
giving for the miraculous restoration of his Majesty : om*
vicar preaching on Psalm cxviii. 24, requiring us to be
thankful and rejoice, as indeed we had cause.
4th June. Came Sir Charles Harbord, his Majesty's
surveyor, to take an account of what grounds I challenged
at Sayes Court.
27 th. I saw the Portugal Ambassador at dinner with
his Majesty in state, where was excellent music.
2nd July. I went to see the New Spring-Garden, at
Lambeth, a pretty contrived plantation.
19th. We tried our Diving-Bell, or engine, in the water-
dock at Deptford, in which our curator continued half an
hour under water; it was made of cast lead, let down
with a strong cable.
3rd August. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of
his Majesty's household, to -visit me.
9th. I tried several experiments on the sensitive plant
and humilis, which contracted with the least touch of the
sun through a burning-glass, though it rises and opens
only when it shines on it.
I first saw the famous Queen Pine* brought from Bar-
badoes, and presented to liis Majesty ; but the first that
were ever seen in England were those sent to Cromwell
four years since.
I dined at Mr. Palmer's in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity
excelled in clocks and pendules, especially one that had
innumerable motions, and played nine or ten tunes on the
bells very finely, some of them set in parts ; which was
very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter.
He had also good telescopes and mathematical instru-
ments, choice pictures, and other curiosities. Thence, we
went to that famous mountebank, Jo. Punteus.
Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one of us his Dis-
course of the Vegetation of Plants; and Mr. Henshaw,
his History of Salt-Petre and Gunpowder. I assisted
him to procure his place of French Secretary to the King,
which he purchased of Sir Henry De Vic.
* An excellent print in the line manner, 13 inches by 12, was engraved, in
1823, by Robert Grave, from the picture at Strawberry-Hill, of King Charles
II., receiving this species of fruit from Rose, his gardener, who is presenting
it on his knees, at Dawney Court, Buckinghamshire, the seat of the celebrated
Duchess of Cleveland, See hereafter, under 1668, August.
VOL. I. A A
354 DIARY OF [GREENWICH,
I went to that famous physician, Sir Er. Prujean, who
showed me his laboratory, his work -house for turning, and
other mechanics ; also many excellent pictures, especially
the Magdalen of Caracci ; and some incomparable pay sages
done in distemper ; he played to me likewise on the poly-
thore, an instrument having something of the harp, lute,
and theorbo; by none known in England, nor described
by any author, nor used, but by this skilful and learned
Doctor.
15th. I went to Tunbridge-Wells, my wife being there
for the benefit of her health. Walking about the solitudes,
I greatly admired the extravagant turnings, insinuations,
and growth of certain birch-trees among the rocks.
13th September. I presented my "Fumifugium,"*
dedicated to his Majesty, who was pleased that I should
publish it by his special commands, being much gratified
with it.
18th. This day was read our petition to his Majesty for
his royal grant, authorizing our Society to meet as a cor-
poration, with several privileges.
An exceeding sickly, wet autumn.
1st October. I sailed this morning with his Majesty in
one of his yachts (or pleasure-boats), vessels not known
among us till the Dutch East India Company presented
that curious piece to the King ; being very excellent sailing
vessels. It was on a wager between his other new pleasure-
boat, built frigate-hke, and one of the Duke of York^s ;
the wager 100/. ; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend
and back. The King lost it going, the wind being
contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There were
divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty some-
times steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat
attended. I brake fast this morning with the King at
return in his smaller vessel, he being pleased to take me
and only four more, who were noblemen, with him ; but
dined in his yacht, where we all eat together with his
Majesty. In this passage he was pleased to discourse to
me about my book inveighing against the nuisance of
the smoke of London, and proposing expedients how, by
* This pamphlet having become scarce, was reprinted for Messrs. White,
inFleet Street, in 4to,in 1772,and is incorporated in Evelyn's "Miscellaneous
Writings," edited hy W. Upcott, of the London Institution, in 1825, 4to.
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 355
removing those particiilars I mentioned^* it migbt be re-
formed; commanding me to prepare a Bill against the
next session of Parhament, being, as he said, resolved to
have something done in it. Then he discoursed to me of
the improvement of gardens and buildings, now very rare
in England comparatively to other countries. He then
commanded me to draw up the matter of fact happening
at the bloody encounter which then had newly happened
between the French and Spanish Ambassadors near the
Tower, contending for precedency, at the reception of the
Swedish Ambassador ; giving me order to consult Sir
Wilham Compton, Master of the Ordnance, to inform me
of what he knew of it, and with his favourite. Sir Charles
Berkeley,t captain of the Duke^s life-guard, then present
with his troop and three foot-companies ; with some other
reflections and instructions, to be prepared with a declara-
tion to take off the reports which went about of his
Majesty's partiality in the affairs, and of his officers' and
spectators' rudeness whilst the conflict lasted. So I came
home that night, and went next morning to London,
where from the officers of the Tower, Sir William Compton,
Sir Charles Berkeley, and others who were attending at
this meeting of the Ambassadors three days before, having
collected what I could, I drew up a Narrative in vindica-
tion of his Majesty, and the carriage of his officers and
standers-by.
On Thursday, his Majesty sent one of the pages of the
back stairs for me to wait on him Avith my papers, in his
cabinet, where was present only Sir Henry Bennett {
(Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to his Majesty
what I had drawn up, by the time I had read half a page,
came in Mr. Secretary Morice with a large paper, desiring
to speak with his Majesty, who told him he was now very
busy, and therefore ordered him to come again some other
time j the Secretary replied that what he had in his hand
was of extraordinary importance. So the King rose up,
and, commanding me to stay, went aside to a comer of the
room with the Secretary ; after a while, the Secretary
* In the Fumifugimn, before mentioned.
+ Afterwards Earl of Falmouth, who was killed by the side of the Duke of
York, in the first Dutch war.
t Afterwards Secretary of State, Earl of Arlington, and Lord ChamberhuD.-
A A 2
356 DIARY OF [LONDON,
being despatched, his Majesty returning to me at the
table, a letter was brought him from Madame out of
France ; this he read and then bid me proceed from where
I left off. This I did till I had ended all the narrative, to
his Majesty's great satisfaction; and, after I had inserted
one or two more clauses, in which his Majesty instructed
me, commanded that it should that night be sent to the
Post-house, directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris
(the Earl of St. Alban's) and then at leisure to prepare
him a copy, which he would publish.* This I did, and
immediately sent my papers to the Secretary of State,
with his Majesty's express command of despatching them
that night for France. Before I went out of the King's
closet, he called me back to show me some ivory statues,
and other curiosities that I had not seen before.
8rd. Next evening, being in the withdrawing-room
adjoining the bedchamber, his Majesty espying me came
to me from a great crowd of noblemen standing near the
fire, and asked me if I had done j and told me he feared
it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts ; for he
had that morning spoken with the French Ambassador,
who it seems had palliated the matter, and was very tame ;
and therefore directed me where I should soften a period
or two, before it was published (as afterwards it was).t
This night also he spake to me to give him a sight of what
was sent, and to bring it to him in his bed-chamber;
which I did, and received it again from him at dinner,
next day. By Saturday, having finished it with all his
Majesty's notes, the King being gone abroad, I sent the
papers to Sir Henry Bennett (Privy Purse and a great
favourite), and slipped home, being myself much indisposed
and harassed with going about, and sitting up to write.
19th. I went to London, to visit my Lord of Bristol,
having been with Sir John Denham (his Majesty's sur-
veyor) to consult with him about the placing of his palace
at Greenwich, which I would have had built between the
river and the Queen's house, so as a large square cut shoidd
• The Narrative is reprinted hereafter.
t Notwithstanding this positive assertion, it is very extraordinary that it
has never been inserted in any Library, or Auction Catalogue, that a gentle-
man of the greatest research (Mr. Bindley) ever saw. Perhaps it was
recalled.
1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 357
have let in the Thames like a bay ; but Sir John was for
setting it on piles at the very brink of the water, which I
did not assent to ; and so came away, knowing Sir John
to be a better poet than architect, though he had Mr. Webb
(Inigo Jones's man) to assist him.*
29th. I saw the Lord May or t pass in his water triumph
to Westminster, being the first solemnity of this nature
after twenty years.
2nd November. Came Sir Henry Bennett, since Lord
Arlington, to visit me, and to acquaint me that his Majesty
would do me the honour to come and see my garden ; but,
it being then late, it was deferred.
3rd. One Mr. Breton J preached his probation-sermon
at our parish-church, and indeed made a most excellent
discourse on John i. 29, of God's free grace to penitents,
so that I could not but recommend him to the patron.
10th. In the afternoon, preached at the Abbey Dr.
Basire, that great traveller, or rather French Apostle, who
had been planting the Church of England in divers parts
of the Levant and Asia. He showed that the Church of
England was, for purity of doctrine, substance, decency,
and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven ; that England
was the very land of Goshen.
11th. I was so idle as to go to see a play called " Love
and Honour." § — Dined at Arundel House ; and that
evening discoursed with his Majesty about shipping, in
which he was exceeding skilful.
] 5th. I dined with the Duke of Ormond, who told me
there were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and
that but in one county ; but it was a mistake that spiders
would not hve there, only they were not poisonous. Also,
that they frequently took salmon with dogs.
16th. I presented my Translation of " Naudaeus con-
cerning Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was
miserably false printed. *^
* See p. 361.
+ Sir John Frederick. The pageant for this day was called " London's
Triumph, at the Charges of the Grocers' Company. By John Tatliam." See
the Gentleman's Magazine, xciv. ii. 517.
J He obtained the living.
§ A Tragi-Comedy, by Sir William Davenant ; the performance appears to
have been in the morning.
358 DIAEY OP " [LONDON,
1 7th. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the " Florentine
Council," and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian,
preached on Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the return and
restoration of the Church and King.
20th. At the Eoyal Society, Sir William Petty proposed
divers things for the improvement of shipping ; a versatile
keel that should be on hinges, and concerning sheathing
ships with tliin lead.*
24th. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me
concerning bees, &c.
26th. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark played ; but now
the old plays began to disgust this refined age, since his
Majesty's being so long abroad.
28th. I dined at Chiffinch's house-warming, in St.
James's Park ; he was his Majesty's closet-keeper, and had
his new house full of good pictures, &c. There dined with
us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape Verd, who was sent out
to negotiate his Majesty's match with the Infanta of
Portugal, after the Ambassador was returned.
29th. I dined at the Coimtess of Peterborough's, and
went that evening to Parson's Green with my Lord
Mordaunt, with whom I stayed that night.
1st December. I took leave of my Lord Peterborough,
going now to Tangier, which was to be delivered to the
English on the match with Portugal.
3rd. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly,
an order was made and registered, that I should receive
their public thanks for the honourable mention I made of
them by the name of E-oyal Society, in my Epistle dedica-
tory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of
Naudaeus. Too great an honour for a trifle.
4th. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, con-
cerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who swallowed
a whole ear of barley, which worked out at her side. I
told him of the knife swallowed ^f and the pins.
I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, now going in
the fleet to bring over our new Queen.
• Of which Bee more hereafter.
+ This refers to tlie Dutchman, p. 26, and to an extraordinary case, con-
tained in a " miraculous cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife, &c., by Dan.
Lakin, P. C." ^uurto, London, 1642, with a woodcut representing the object
himself, and the size of the knife.
1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 359
7th. I dined at Arundel House, the day when the great
contest in Parhament was concerning the restoring the
Duke of Norfolk ; however, it was carried for him. I also
presented my little trifle of Sumptuary Laws, entitled
«'Tyrannus" [or "The Mode."]
14th. I saw otter-hunting with the King, and killed one.
16th. I saw a French Comedy acted at Whitehall.
20th. The Bishop of Gloucester* preached at the Abbey,
at the funeral of the Bishop of Hereford, brother to the
Duke of Albemarle. It was a decent solemnity. There
was a silver mitre, with episcopal robes, borne by the
herald before the hearse, which was followed by the Duke
his brother, and aU the Bishops, with divers noblemen.
23rd. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guitar with
extraordinary skill before the Duke.
1661-2. 1st January. I went to London, invited to the
solemn foolery of the Prince de la Grange, at Lincoln's
Inn, where came the King, Duke, &c. It began with a
grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock
Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sun. He
had his Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other
Royal Officers, gloriously clad and attended. It ended in
a magnificent banquet. One Mr. Lort was the young
spark who maintained the pageantry.
6th. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty
opened the revels of that night by throwing the dice him-
self in the privy-chamber, where was a table set on
purpose, and lost his 100/. (The year before he won 1500Z.)
The ladies also played very deep. I came away when the
Duke of Ormond had won about 1000/., and left them
still at passage, cards, &c. At other tables, both there and
at the Groom -porter's, observing the wicked folly and
monstrous excess of passion amongst some losers ; sorry
am I that such a wretched custom as play to that excess
should be countenanced in a Court, which ought to be an
example of virtue to the rest of the kingdom.
9th. I saw acted " The Third Part of the Siege of
Rhodes." In this acted the fair and famous comedian
called Roxalana from the part she performed ; and I think
it was the last, she being taken to be the Earl of Oxford's
* Dr. William Nicholson.
360 DIARY OF [LONDON,
Miss (as at tliis time they began to call lewd women). It
was in recitative music.
lOth. Being called into his Majesty^s closet when Mr.
Cooper, the rare limner, was crayoning of the King's face
and head, to make the stamps for the new milled money now
contriving, I had the honour to hold the candle whilst it
was doing, he choosing the night and candle-light for the
better finding out the shadows. During this, his Majesty
discoursed with me on several things relating to painting
and graving.
11th. I dined at Arundel House, where I heard excellent
music performed by the ablest masters, both French and
Enghsh, on theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as an exer-
cise against the coming of the Queen, purposely composed
for her chapel. Afterwards, my Lord Aubigny (her Majesty's
Almoner to be) showed us his elegant lodging, and his
wheel-chair for ease and motion, with divers other curi-
osities ; especially a kind of artificial glass, or porcelain,
adorned with relievos of paste, hard and beautiful. Lord
Aubigny (brother to the Duke of Lennox) was a person of
good sense, but wholly abandoned to ease and efi'eminacy.
I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen's Attorney, a
draught of an Act against the nuisance of the smoke of
London, to be reformed by removing several trades which
are the cause of it, and endanger the health of the King
and his people. It was to have been offered to the Parlia-
ment, as his Majesty commanded.
12th. AtSt. James's chapel preached, or rather harangued,
the famous orator. Monsieur Morus,* in French. There
were present the King, Duke, French Ambassador, Lord
Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and a world of Roman Catholics,
drawn thither to hear this eloquent Protestant.
15th. There was a general fast through the whole
nation, and now celebrated in London, to avert God's heavy
judgments on this land. Great rain had fallen without any
frost, or seasonable cold, not only in England, but in
Sweden, and the most northern parts, being here near as
warm as at Midsummer in some years.
This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at
• Probably, the famotis Alexander Moras (the antagonist of Milton) who
Traa here in 1662. He was a very eloquent and much-admired preacher.
16G2.] JOHN EVELYN. 361
St. Margaret's. Dr. Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preached
on Joshua, vii. 12, showing how the neglect of exacting
justice on offenders (by which he insinuated such of the
old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and in the
Tower) was a main cause of God's punishing a land. He
brought in that of the Gibeonites, as well as Achan and
others, concluding with an eulogy of the Parliament for
their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and Clergy, and
vindicating the Church from sacrilege.
16th. Having notice of the Duke of York's intention to
visit my poor habitation and garden this day, I returned,
when he was pleased to do me that honour of his own
accord, and to stay some time viewing such things as I
had to entertain his curiosity. Afterwards, he caused me
to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy's house,
and to sit with him covered at the same table. There
were his Highness, the Duke of Ormond, and several
Lords. Then they viewed some of my grounds. about a
project for a receptacle for ships to be moored in, which
was laid aside as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this,
I accompanied the Diike to an East India vessel that
lay at Blackwall, where we had entertainment of several
curiosities. Amongst other spirituous drinks, as punch,
&c., they gave us Canary that had been carried to and
brought from the Indies, which was indeed incomparably
good. I returned to London with his Highness. This night
was acted before his Majesty " The Widow,'' a lewd play.
18th. I came home to be private a little, not at all
affecting the life and hurry of Court.
24th. His Majesty entertained me with his intentions
of building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite demolish-
ing the old one ; on which I declared my thoughts.
25th. I dined with the Trinity-Company at their house,
that Corporation being by charter fixed at Deptford.
3rd February. I went to Chelsea, to see Sir Arthur
Gorges' house.
1 1th. I saw a comedy acted before the Duchess of York
at the Cockpit. The King was not at it.
17th. I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house
at AVimbledon,* newly bought of the Queen-Mother, to
• It devolved afterwards to Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, who built a
362 DIARY OP [LONDON,
help contrive the garden after the modern. It is a deli-
cious place for prospect and the thickets, but the soil cold
and weeping clay. Eeturned that evening with Sir Henry
Bennett.
This night was buried in Westminster- Abbey the Queen
of Bohemia,* after all her sorrows and afflictions being
come to die in the arms of her nephew, the King : also
this night and the next day fell such a storm of hail,
thunder, and lightning, as never was seen the like in any
man^s memory, especially the tempest of wind, being south-
west, which subverted, besides huge trees, many houses,
innumerable chimneys (amongst others that of my parlour
at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land and sea,
that several perished on both. Divers lamentable fires
were also kindled at this time ; so exceedingly was God's
hand against this ungrateful and vicious nation and Court.
20th. I returned home to repair my house, miserably
shattered by the late tempest.
24th March. I returned home with my whole family,
which had been most part of the winter, since October, at
London, in lodgings near the Abbey of Westminster.
6th April, Being of the Vestry, in the afternoon we
ordered that the communion-table should be set (as usual)
altar-wise, with a decent rail in front, as before the
Rebellion.
17th. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent
father was executed in Scotland, came to see my garden.
He seemed a man of parts.
7 th May. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly,
where were tried several experiments in Mr. Boyle's vacuum.
A man thrusting in his arm, upon exhaustion of the air,
had his flesh immediately swelled so as the blood was near
bursting the veins: he, drawing it out, we found it all
speckled.
14th. To London, being chosen one of the Commis-
sioners for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and
incumbrances, and regulating the hackney coaches in the
new house there, burnt doTv-n many years since. The property now belongs
to Earl Spencer, who lias built a smaller house. There are two scarce and
curious views of the old house, engraved by Winstanley.
* EUzabeth, Electress Palatine, daughter of James I., a woman of excellent
anderstandmg, and most amiable disposition.
1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 363
City of London, taking my oath before my Lord. Chan-
cellor, and then went to his Majesty's Surveyor's Office, in
Scotland- Yard, about naming and establishing officers,
adjourning till the 16th, when I went to view how St.
Martin's Lane might be made more passable into the
Strand. There were divers gentlemen of quality in this
commission.
25th. I went this evening to London, in order to our
journey to Hampton Court, to see the new Queen, who,
ha\ing landed at Portsmouth, had been married to the
King a week before by the Bishop of London.
30th. The Queen arrived with a train of Portuguese
ladies in their monstrous fardingales, or guard-infantes,
their complexions olivader * and sufficiently unagreeable.
Her Majesty in the same habit, her fore-top long and
turned aside very strangely. She was yet of the hand-
somest countenance of all the rest, and, though low of
stature, prettily shaped, languishing and excellent eyes,
her teeth wronging her mouth by sticking a Uttle too far
out ; for the rest lovely enough.
31st. I saw the Queen at dinner ; the Judges came
to compliment her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of
Ormond brought me to kiss her hand.
2nd June. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their
addresses to the Queen, presenting her lOOOZ. in gold.
Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, and the Guarda-damas,
or IMother of her Maids,t and the old knight, a lock of
whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound
on by a thread, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent
to his Majesty from the State of Venice ; but it was not
comparable for swiftness to our common wherries, though
managed by Venetians.
4th. Went to visit the Earl of Bristol, at Wimbledon.
8th, I saw her JSIajesty at supper privately in her bed-
chamber.
* Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in other accounts that
the Queen's Portuguese Ladies of Honour, who came over witli her, were
uncommonly ill-favoured, and disagreeable in their appearance. See Faithorue's
curious print of her Majesty in the costume here desciibed.
+ The Maids of Honour had a Mother at least as early as the reign of
EUzabeth. The office is supposed to have been abolished about the period of
the RevolutioQ of 1668. Lodge's Illustrations of British History, III. 227. .
gg^ . DIARY OP [HAMPTON COURT,
9tli. I heard the Queen's Portugal music, consisting of
pipes, harps, and very ill voices.
Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as
capacious as any Gothic architecture can have made it.
There is an incomparable furniture in it, especially hang-
ings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold ; also many
rare pictures, especially the Csesarean Triumphs of Andrea
Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's ; of the tapes-
tries, I believe the world can show nothing nobler of the
kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. The gallery
of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags,
elks, antelopes, &c. The Queen's bed was an embroidery
of silver on crimson velvet, and cost 8000/., being a pre-
sent made by the States of Holland when his Majesty
returned, and had formerly been given by them to our
King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of
her again, was now presented to the King. The great
looking-glass and toilet, of beaten and massive gold, was
given by the Queen-Mother. The Queen brought over
with her from Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never
before been seen here. The great hall is a most magnifi-
cent room. The chapel-roof excellently fretted and gilt.
I was also curious to visit the wardrobe and tents, and
other furniture of state. The park, formerly a flat and
naked piece of ground, now planted with sweet rows of
lime trees ; and the canal for water now near perfected ;
also the air-park. In the garden is a rich and noble foun-
tain, with Sirens, statues, &c., cast in copper, by Fanelli ;
but no plenty of water. The cradle-work of horn beam
in the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees,
very observable. There is a parterre which they call Para-
dise, in which is a pretty banqueting-house set over a
cave, or cellar. All these gardens might be exceedingly
improved, as being too narrow for such a palace.
10th. I returned to London, and presented my " His-
tory of Chalcography " (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our
Society.*
19th. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard,
soon after he had procured the dukedom to be restored.
This gentleman had now compounded a debt of 200,000/.,
• See Evelyn's "Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, p. 243.
1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 365
contracted by his grandfather. I was much obhged to that
great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I
stayed a fortnight.
2nd July. We hunted and killed a buck in the park,
Mr. Howard inviting most of the gentlemen of the country
near him.
3rd. My wife met me at Woodcot, whither Mr. Howard
accompanied me to see my son John, who had been much
brought up amongst Mr. Howard^s children at Arundel
House, till, for fear of their perverting him in the Catholic
religion, I was forced to take him home.
8th. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Duchess
of Ormond, going then into Ireland with an extraordinary
retinue.
13th. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor,
where I had discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Gover-
nor of Barbadoes, concerning divers particulars of that
colony.
28th. His Majesty going to sea to meet the Queen-
Mother, now coming again for England, met with such ill
weather as greatly endangered him. I went to Greenwich,
to wait on the Queen, now landed.
30th. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable
Uses, and particularly to inquire how the City had dis-
posed of the revenues of Gresham College, and why the
salaries of the professors there were no better improved.
I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and Lords
of the Council; but little was the progress we could
make.
31st. I sat with the Commissioners about reforming
buildings and streets of London, and we ordered the pav-
ing of the way from St. James's North, which was a quag-
mire, and also of the Haymarket about Piqudillo [Picca-
dilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed and
published for the better keeping the streets clean.
1st August. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles,
Edward, Bernard, Philip* now the Queen's Almoner, (all
brothers of the Duke of Norfolk, still in Italy), came with
a great train, and dined with me ; Mr. H. Howard leaving
with me his eldest and yoimgest sons, Henry and Thomas,
* Since Cardinal at Rome.
DIARY OP ;: [londow,
for three or four days, my son, John, having been sometime
bred up in their father^s house.
4th, Came to see me the old Countess of Devonshire,*
with that excellent and worthy person, my Lord, her son,
from Eoehampton.
5th. To London, and next day to Hampton Court, about
my purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe, now going
Ambassador to Portugal.
13th. Our Charter being now passed under the broad
Seal, constituting us a corporation under the name of The
Royal Society for the improvement of natural knowledge
by experiment, was this day read, and was all that was done
this afternoon, being very large.
14th. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the
Lord Mayor and others of the Mercers' Company being
summoned, to answer some complaints of the Professors,
grounded on a clause in the wiU of Sir Thomas Gresham,
the founder.
This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with the Earl of St.
Alban's and many great ladies and persons, was pleased to
honour my poor villa with her presence, and to accept of
a collation. She was exceedingly pleased, and staid till
very late in the evening.
15th. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earl of Claren-
don) and his lady, his purse and mace borne before him,
to visit me. They were likewise coUationed with us, and
were very merry. They had all been our old acquaintance
in exile, and indeed this great person had ever been my
friend. His son, Lord Cornbury, was here, too.
17th. Being the Sunday when the Common Prayer-
Book, reformed and ordered to be used for the future, was
appointed to be read, and the solemn League and Covenant
to be abjured by all the incumbents of England under
penalty of losing their livings; our \icar read it this
morning.
20th. There were strong guards in the city this day,
* Christjan, Countess of Devonshire. She was of consderable celebrity for
her devotion, hospitality, her great care in the management of her son's
affairs ; and as a patroness of tlie wits of the age, who frequently met at her
house : also for her loyalty and correspondence to promote the restoration.
King Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with tlie Queen-Mother
and the Royal Family. There ia a life of this lady, written by Mr. Pomfret.
1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 367
apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian
ministers not conforming. I dined with the Vice-
Chamberlain, and then went to see the Queen-Mother,
who was pleased to give me many thanks for the enter-
tainment she received at my house, when she recounted to
me many observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs
she formerly had.
21st. I was admitted and then sworn one of the Council
of the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty^s
original grant to be of this Council for the regulation of
the Society, and making laws and statutes conducible to
its establishment and progress, for which we now set apart
every Wednesday morning till they were all finished.
Lord Viscount Brouncker (that excellent mathematician)
was also by his Majesty, our founder, nominated our first
President. The King gave us the arms of England to be
borne in a canton in our arms, and sent us a mace of
silver gilt, of the sameTashion and bigness as those carried
before his Majesty, to be borne before our president on
meeting days. It was brought by Sir Gilbert Talbot,
Master of his Majesty^s Jewel-house.
22nd. I dined with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robert
Murray, and then went to consult about a new-modelled
ship at Lambeth, the intention being to reduce that art
to as certain a method as any other part of architecture.
23rd. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph
that ever floated on the Thames,* considering the innu-
merable boats and vessels, dressed and adorned with
all 'imaginable pomp, but, above all, the thrones, arches,
pageants, and other representations, stately barges of the
Lord Mayor and Companies, with various inventions,
music and peals of ordnance both from the vessels and the
shore, going to meet and conduct the new Queen from
Hampton Court to Whitehall, at the first time of her
coming to town. In my opinion, it far exceeded all the
Venetian Bucentoras, &c., on the Ascension, when they
go to espouse the Adriatic. His Majesty and the Queen
* An account of this solemnity was published in " Aqua Triumphalis ; being
a true relation of the honourable City of London entertaining their sacred
Majesties upon the River of Thames, and welcoming them from Hampton
Court to Whitehall, &c. Engraved by John Tatham," foUo, 1662. See
Gentleman's Magazine, vol. xciv. ii. 516.
368 DIARY OF [LONDON,
came in an antique-shaped open vessel, covered "svitli a
state, or canopy, of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola,
supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreathed with
flowers, festoons, and garlands. I was in our new-built
vessel, sailing amongst them.
29th. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society
went in a body to Whitehall, to acknowledge his Majesty's
royal grace in granting our Charter, and vouchsafing to be
himself our Founder ; when the President made an elo-
quent speech, to which his Majesty gave a gracious reply,
and we all kissed his hand. Next day, we went in like
manner with our address to my Lord Chancellor, who had
much promoted our patent : he received us with extraordi-
nary favour. In the evening, I went to the Queen-Mother's
Court, and had much discourse with her.
1st September. Being invited by Lord Berkeley, I went
to Durdans,* where dined his Majesty, the Queen, Duke,
Duchess, Prince Rupert, Prince Edward, and abundance of
noblemen. I went, after dinner, to visit my brother of
Woodcot, my sister ha^dng been delivered of a son a little
before, but who had now been two days dead.
4th. Commission for Charitable Uses, my Lord Mayor
and Aldermen being again summoned, and the improve-
ments of Sir Thomas Gresham's estate examined. There
were present the Bishop of London, the Lord Chief Justice,
and the King's Attorney.
6th. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter King-
at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, and several
others.
17th. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society
should be, a field Argent, with a canton of the arms of
England ; the supporters two talbots Argent ; Crest, an
eagle Or holding a shield with the like arms of England,
viz., three lions. The words Nullius in verbd. It was
presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders
given to Garter King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their
office for it.
20th. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my
own concerns, and afterwards accompanied him to Monsieur
Febure, his chymist (and who had formerly been my
master in Paris), to see his accurate preparation for the
* At Epsom.
1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 369
composing Sir Walter Raleigh^s rare cordial ; lie made a
learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each
ingredient,
27th. Came to visit me Sir George Saville,* grandson
to the learned Sir Henry Saville, who pubKshed St. Chry-
sostom. Sir George was a witty gentleman, if not a little
too prompt and daring.
3rd October. I was invited to the College of Physicians,
where Dr. Meret, a learned man and hbrary-keeper,
showed me the library, theatre for anatomy, and divers
natural curiosities ; the statue and epigraph under it of
that renowned physician. Dr. Harvey, discoverer of the
circulation of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir
Wilhara Paddy^s, and other pictures of men famous in
their faculty.
Visited Mr. Wright,t a Scotsman, who had hved long at
E/Ome, and was esteemed a good painter. The pictures of
the Judges at Guildhall are of his hand, and so are some
pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his Majesty's old bed-
chamber, being Astraea, the St. Catherine, and a chimney-
piece in the Queen's privy chamber; but his best, in my
opinion, is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom
he has painted in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian
minister, and a Scotch highlander in his plaid.J It is in
his Majesty's dining-room, at Windsor. He had at his
house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of
Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo ; and,
above all, those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates
and medals, especially a Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold.
15th. I this day delivered my " Discourse concerning
Forest-Trees " to the Society, upon occasion of certain
queries sent to us by the Commissioners of his Majesty's
Navy, being the first book that was printed by order of the
Society, and by their printer, since it was a Corporation.
16th. I saw "Volpone" acted at Court before their
Majesties.
21st. To the Queen-Mother's Court, where her Majesty
* Afterwards, the celebrated Marquis of Halifax. + See p. 331.
J A private etching from this picture was made in 1825, by William Hop-
kins, one of the pages to Princess Elizabeth. Mr. John Lacy is represented
in his three principal characters, viz. Teague, in the Committee ; Scruple, in
the Cheats ; and Galliard, in the Variety. He died in 1681.
VOL. I. B B
370 DIARY OF [LONDON,
related to us divers passages of her escapes during the
Rebellian and wars in England.
28th. To Court in the evening, where the Queen-Mother,
the Queen-Consort, and his Majesty, being advertised of
some disturbance, forebore to go to the Lord IVIayor^s show
and feast appointed next day, the new Queen not having
yet seen that triumph.
29th. Was my Lord Mayor^s* Show, with a number of
sumptuous pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing
in a house in Cheapside against the place prepared for
their Majesties. The Prince and heir of Denmark was
there, but not our King. There were also the maids of
honour. I went to Court this evening, anij had much dis-
, course with Dr. Basiers,t one of his Majesty^s chaplains,
the great traveller, who showed me the syngraphs and
original subscriptions of divers eastern patriarchs and
Asian churches to our confession.
4th November. I was invited to the wedding of the
daughter of Sir George Carteret, (the Treasurer of the Navy
and King's Vice-Chamberlain), married to Sir Nicholas
Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by the Bishop of London, in
the Savoy chapel ; after which, was an extraordinary feast.
5th. The Council of the Royal Society met to amend
the Statutes, and dined together : afterwards meeting at
Gresham College, where was a discourse suggested by me,
concerning planting his Majesty's Forest of Dean with oak,
now so much exhausted of the choicest ship-timber in the
world.
20th. Dined with the Comptroller, Sir Hugh Pollard;
afterwards, saw "The Young Admiral" J acted before the
King.
21 st. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby
giving me great thanks for my Sylva.^
27th. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian
Ambassador, whom his Majesty ordered to be received with
* Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on this
occasion, which was the same as in the preceding year (see note, p. 357), was
at the charge of the Clothworker's Company.
+ Isaac Basire. See p. 357, and an account of him in Wood's « Athense
Oxonienses."
X A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley.
§ " Discourse on Forest-Trees." See preceding page.
1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 37 1
nrncli state, the Emperor not only having been kind to his
Majesty in his distress, but banishing all commerce with
our nation during the Rebellion.
First, the City Companies and Trained Bands Avere all
in their stations : his Majesty's Army and Guards in great
order. His Excellency came in a very rich coach, with
some of his chief attendants ; many of the rest on horse-
back, clad in their vests, after the Eastern manner, rich
furs, caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawks,
furs, teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent show.
I dined with the Master of the Mint,* where was old
Sir Ralph Freeman ; t passing my evening at the Queen-
Mother's Court; at night, saw acted "The Committee," a
ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic. Lacy,
acted the Irish footman to admiration.
30th. St. Andrew's day. Invited by the Dean of West-
minster J to his consecration-dinner and ceremony, on his
being made Bishop of Worcester. Dr. Bolton preached
in the Abbey Church ; then followed the consecration by
the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury,
&c. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magni-
ficent dinners that in my life I ever saw; it cost near 600/.
as I was informed. Here were the Judges, nobility, clergy,
and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop being universally
beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was author
of those Characters which go under the name of Blount.§
He translated his late Majesty's Icon into Latin, was
Clerk of his Closet, Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and
yet a most humble, meek, but cheerful man, an excellent
scholar, and rare preacher. I had the honoui' to be loved
by him. He married me at Paris, duiing his Majesty's
and the Church's exile. When I took leave of him, he
brought me to the cloisters in his episcopal habit. I then
went to prayers at Whitehall, where I passed that evening.
1st December. Having seen the strange and wonderful
dexterity of the sHders on the new canal in St. James's
Park, performed before their Majesties by divers gentlemen
* Mr. Slingsby.
f Of Betchworth, in Surrey.
4: Dr. Jolin Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury.
§ These Characters wex'e several times printed, and are still I'ead with
some interest.
B B 2
372 DIARY OF [tosDON,
and others with skates, after the manner of the Hollanders,
with what swiftness they pass, how suddenly they stop in
full career upon the ice ; I went home by water, but not
without exceeding difficulty, the Thames being fi'02sen, great
flakes of ice encompassing our boat.
17th. I saw acted before the King " The Law against
Lovers.^' *
21st. One of his Majesty's chaplains preached ; after
which, instead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind
music accompanying the organ, was introduced a concert
of twenty-four violins between every pause, after the French
fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern, or playhouse,
than a church. This was the first time of change, and now
we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ ;
that instrument quite left off in which the EngUsh were so
skilful. I dined at Mr. Povey's, where I talked with Cromer,
a great musician.
23rd. I went with Sir George Tuke, to hear the come-
dians con and repeat his new comedy, " The Adventures of
Five Hours,'' a play whose plot was taken out of the famous
Spanish poet, Calderon.
27th. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph.
29th. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador,
which was with extraordinary state, his retinue being
numerous, all clad in vests of several colours, with buskins,
after the Eastern manner ; their caps of fur ; tunics, richly
embroidered with gold and pearls, made a glorious show.
The King being seated under a canopy in the Banqueting-
house, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the
Ambassador in a grave march, holding up his master's
letters of credence in a crimson taffeta scarf before his
forehead. The Ambassador then delivered it with a pro-
found reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary
of State ; it was written in a long and lofty style. Then
came in the presents, borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting
of mantles and other large pieces lined with sable, black
fox, and ermine; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of gold
and velvet ; hawks, such as they said never came the like ;
horses said to be Persian ; bows and arrows, &c. These
* A Tragi-Comedy, by Sir William Davenant, taken almost entirely from
Shakspeare's " Measure for Measure," and " Much Ado about Nothing/'
blended together.
1663.] JOHN EVELYN. 373
borne by so long a train rendered it very extraordinary.
Wind music plaj'ed all the while in the galleries above.
This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the Master
of the Ceremonies to York-House, where he was treated
with a banquet which cost ZOO I. as I was assured.*
1G63-3. 7th January. At night, I saw the ball, in which
his Majesty danced with several great ladies.
8th. I went to see my kinsman. Sir George Tuke's,
comedy acted at the Duke's theatre, which took so univer-
sally, that it was acted for some weeks every day, and it
was believed it would be worth to the comedians 400/. or
500/. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff
and formal.
10th. I saw a ball again at Court, danced by the King,
the Duke, and ladies, in great pomp.
21st. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the Household, Sir
Charles Berkeley's, where were the Earl of Oxford, Lord
Bellassis, Lord Gerard, Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir William
Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, and others.
5th February. I saw " The Wild Gallant," a comedy ; f
and was at the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the
Queen, &c., danced.
6th. Dined at my Lord Mayor's, Sir John Robinson,
Lieutenant of the Tower.
15th. This night some villains brake into my house and
study below, and robbed me to the value of 60/. in plate,
money, and goods ; — this being the third time I have been
thus plundered.
26th March. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where
• " The Czar of Muscovy sent an Ambassador to compliment King Charles
II. on his Restoration. The King sent the Earl of Carlisle as his Ambas-
satlor to Moscow, to desire the re-estabUshment of the ancient privileges of
the English merchants at Archangel, which had been taken away by the Czar,
who, abhorring the murder of the King's father, accused them as favourers
of it. But, by the means of the Czar's ministers, his Lordship was very ill
received, and met with what he deemed affronts, and had no success as to his
demands, so that at coming away he refused the presents sent him by the
Czar. The Czar sent an Ambassador to England to complain of Lord
Carlisle's conduct ; but his Lordship vindicated himself so well, that the King
told the Ambassador he saw no reason to condemn his Lordship's conduct."
Relation of this Embassy by G. M., authenticated by Lord Carlisle, printed
1669.
f By Mr. Dryden. It did not succeed on the first representation, but was
considerably altered to the form in which it now appears.
374 DIARY OP [LONDON,
was a great case pleaded by his Majesty's counsel; he,
having bnilt a wall over a water-course, denied the juris-
diction of the Court. The verdict went for the Plaintiff
[i.e. against the King].
30th April. Came his Majesty to honour my poor villa
with his presence, \dewing the gardens and' even every room
of the house, and was pleased to take a small refreshment.
There were with him the Duke of Richmond, Earl of St.
Alban's, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of quality.
14th Mar. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence
went to Barnes, to visit my excellent and ingenious friend,
Abraham Cowley.
17th. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to
whom 1 had been land, and assisted in his exile ; but which
he httle remembered in his greatness.
29th. Dr. Creighton preached his extravagant sermon
at St. ^Margaret's, before the House of C6mmons.
30th. This morning was passed my lease of Sayes Court
from the CroAvn, for the finishing of which I had been
obliged to make such frequent journeys to London. I
returned this evening, having seen the Russian Ambassador
take leave of then* Majesties with great solemnity.
2nd July. I saw the great Masque at Court, and lay that
night at Ainmdel-house.
4th. I saw liis Majesty's Guards, being of horse and foot
4000, led by the General, the Duke of Albemarle, in extra-
ordinary eqidpage and gallantry, consisting of gentlemen
of quality and veteran soldiers, excellently clad, mounted,
and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their Majesties
in Hyde Park, where the old Earl of Cleveland trailed a
pike, and led the right-hand file in a foot-company, com-
manded l)y the Lord Wentworth, his son; a worthy
spectacle Jind example, being both of them old and valiant
soldiers. This was to show the French Ambassador,
Monsieur Comminges; there being a great assembly of
coaches, &c., iu the park.
7th. Dined at the Comptroller's; after dinner, we met
at the Commission about the streets, and to regulate hack-
ney-coaches, also to make up our accounts to pass the
Exchequer.
16th. A most extraordinary wet and cold season.
Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of . the Navy, had now
1663.] JOHN EVELYN. 375
married his daughter, Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of
Scott's-hall, in Kent.* This gentleman was thought to
be the son of Prince Rupert.
2nd August. This evening, I accompanied Mr. Treasurer
and Vice-Chamberlain Carteret to his lately married son-
in-la\v^s, Sir Thomas Scott, to Scott's-haU. We took barge
as far as Gravesend, thence by post to Rochester, whence
in coach and six horses to Scott^s-hall ; a right noble seat,
uniformly built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in a
park well stored, the land fat and good. We were exceed-
ingly feasted by the young knight, and in his pretty chapel
heard an excellent sermon by his chaplain. In the after-
noon, preached the learned Sir Norton Knatchbull,t (who
has a noble seat hard by, and a plantation of stately fir-
trees) . In the church-yard of the parish church I measured
an over-grown yew-tree, that was eighteen of my paces in
compass, out of some branches of which, torn off by the
winds, were sawed divers goodly planks.
10th. We returned by Sir Norton's, whose- house is
likewise in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person,
and learned critic, especially in Greek and Hebrew. Passing
by Chatham, we saw his Majesty's Royal Navy, and dined
at Commissioner Pett's, J master-builder there, who showed
me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging
to his art. He is esteemed for the most skilful ship-
builder in the world. He hath a pretty garden and
banqueting-house, pots, statues, cypresses, resembling some
viUas about Rome. After a great feast, we rode post to
Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by
barge home that night.
18th. To London, to see my Lord Chancellor, where I
had discourse with my Lord Archbishop of Canterbury and
the Bishop of Winchester, who enjoined me to write to
• See Hasted's « Kent," Vol. III., p. 293.
t Hasted's " Kent," Vol. II., p. 444.
J There is a monument for him in Deptford church, with a most pompous
inscription : " Qui fuit patriae decus, patrise su£e magnum mimimentura ;" he
not only restored our naval affairs, but he invented that excellent and new
ornament of the Navy which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us
most useful and safe : he was the Noah of liis age, by this invention, like the
Ark, having almost snatched our dominion of the seas and our rights from
shipwreck.
376 DIARY OP [LONDON,
Dr. Pierce, President of Magdalen College, Oxford, about
a letter sent him by Dr. Goff, a Romish Oratorian, con-
cerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book.*
20th. I dined at the Comptroller's [of the Household]
with the Earl of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham ; it was said
it should be the last of the public diets, or tables, at Court,
it being determined to put down the old hospitahty, at
which was great murmuring, considering his Majesty's
vast revenue and the plenty of the nation. Hence, I went
to sit in a Committee, to consider about the regulation of
the Mint at the Tower; in which some small progress
was made.
27th. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, Secretary to my
Lord Treasurer, who showed me the accounts and other
private matters relating to the revenue. Thence, to the
Commissioners of the Mint, particularly about coinage,
and bringing his Majesty's rate from fifteen to ten shillings
for every pound weight of gold.
31st. I was invited to the translation of Dr. Sheldon,
Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the cere-
mony performed at Lambeth. First, went his Grace's
mace-bearer, steward, treasurer, comptroller, all in their
gowns, and with white staves ; next, the Bishops in their
habits, eight in number; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the Arches,
Dr. Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick,
Judge of the Prerogative Court, with divers advocates in
scarlet. After divine service in the chapel, performed
with music extraordinary, Dr. French and Dr. Stradling
(his Grace's chaplains) said prayers. The Archbishop in
a private room looking into the chapel, the Bishops who
were Commissioners went up to a table placed before the
altar, and sat round it in chairs. Then, Dr. Chaworth
presented the commission under the broad seal to the
Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate.
* Of Dr. Pierce, who was also Dean of Salisbury, Wood gives a very unfa-
vourable account in his " Fasti." He appears to have been eng.aged in dis-
putes both in his College and at Salisbury. Dean Cressy was bred in the
Church of England, and was appointed Canon of Windsor and Dean of
LeighUn, in Ireland, in the time of King Charles I., but from the troubles of
that time, had no benefit from either ; he aftei-wards became a Papist. The
book here referred to is ** Exomologetis," or the motives of his conversion.
Wood's FastL
1663.] JOHN EVELYN. 377
After which, the Vicar- General went to the vestry, and
brought his Grace into the chapel, his other officers march-
ing before. He being presented to the Commissioners,
was seated in a great arm-chair at one end of the table,
when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop of
Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and pro-
clamation was three times made at the chapel door, which
was then set open for any to enter, and give their excep-
tions ; if any they had. This done, we all went to dinner
in the great hall to a mighty feast. There were present
all the nobility in town, the Lord Mayor of London,
Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lord Archbishop
did in particular most civilly welcome me. So going to
visit my Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, I went
over to London.
10th September. I dined with Mr. Treasurer of the
Navy, where, sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had
much discourse about books and authors, he being a
learned man, and had a good collection.
24th October. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my son*s
preceptor : this gentleman was nephew to Milton, who
wrote against Salmasius's " Defensio ; " but was not at all
infected with his principles, though brought up by him.*
5th November. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's chap-
lain, preached at Westminster Abbey an excellent discourse
concerning obedience to magistrates, against the pontifi-
cians and sectaries. I afterwards dined at Sir Philip
Warwick's, where was much company.
6th. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone oflF
from being SheriflF of Surrey, f
30th. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the
choice of new officers, according to the tenour of our patent
and institution. It being St. Andrew's day, who was our
patron, each fellow wore a St. Andrew's cross of ribbon
on the crown of his hat. After the election, we dined
together, his Majesty sending us venison.
16th December. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle,
our Treasurer at the late election, presented the Society
* The lives of Edward and John Phillips, nephews and pupils of the poet,
were published in 1815, by William Godwin, 4to.
+ In which he succeeded.
378 DIARY OP [LONDON,
with an iron chest, having three locks, and in it lOOZ.
as a gift.
18th. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty^s bed-
chamber at Whitehall.
1663-4. 2nd January, ^o Bame Elms, to see Abraham
Cowley after his sickness ; and returned that evening to
London.
4-th February. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick^s ; thence,
to Court, where I had discourse with the King about an
invention of glass-grenades, and several other subjects.
5th. I saw " The Indian Queen " acted, a tragedy well
written,^ so beautiful with rich scenes as the like had
never been seen here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere
on a mercenary theatre.
16th. I presented my "Sylva" to the Society; and
next day to liis Majesty, to whom it was dedicated ; also
to the Lord Treasurer and the Lord Chancellor.
24th. My Lord George Berkeley, of Durdans, and Sir
Samuel Tuke, came to visit me. We went on board Sir
William Pettj^s double-bottomed vessel, and so to London.
26th. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; and thence to
Court, where I had great thanks for my " Sylva," and
long discourse with the King of divers particulars.
2nd March. Went to London, to distribute some of my
books amongst friends.
4th. Came to dine with me the Earl of Lauderdale, his
Majesty^s great favourite, and Secretary of Scotland ; the
Earl of Teviot ; ray Lord Viscount Brouncker, President
of the Royal Society ; Dr. Wilkins, Dean of Eipon ; Sir
Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Society.
This spring, I planted the Home-field and West-field
about Sayes Court with elms, being the same year that the
elms were planted by his Majesty in Greenwich Park.
9th. I went to the Tower, to sit in commission about
regidating the Mint ; and now it wbs that the fine
new-milled coin, both of white money and guineas, was
established.
26th. It pleased God to take away my son, Richard,
now a month old, yet without any sickness of danger
perceivably, being to all appearance a most likely child ;
• By Sir Robert Howard and Mr. Dryden,
1664,] JOHN EVELYN. 379
we suspected much the nurse had over-lain him ; to our
extreme sorrow, being now again reduced to one : but
God's will be done !
29th. After evening prayers, was my child buried near
the rest of his brothers — my very dear children.
27th April. SaAv a facetious comedy, called " Love in a
Tub ; " and supped at Mr. Secretary Bennett's.
3rd May. Came the Earl of Kent, my kinsman, and his
lady, to visit us.
5th. Went with some company a journey of pleasure
on the water, in a barge, with music, and at Mortlake had
a great banquet, returning late. The occasion was, Sir
Robert Carr now courting Mrs. Bennett, sister to the
Secretary of State.
6th. Went to see Mr. Wright the painter's collection of
rare shells, &c.
8th June. To our Society, to which his Majesty had
sent that wonderful horn of the fish which struck a dan-
gerous hole in the keel of a ship in the India sea, which,
being broken off with the violence of the fish, and left in
the timber, preserved it from foundering.
9th. Sir Samuel Tuke * being this morning married to
a lady, kinswoman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by
the Queen's Lord Almoner, L. Aubigny, in St. James's
chapel, solemnized his wedding-night at my house with
much company.
22nd. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed me such a collection
of rarities, sent from the Jesuits of Japan and China to
their Order at Paris, as a present to be reserved in their
repository, but brought to London by the East India ships
for them, as in my life I had not seen. The chief things
were, rhinoceros's horns ; glorious vests, wrought and em-
broidered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours,
that for splendour and vi\idness we have nothing in Europe
that approaches it ; a girdle studded Avith agates and rubies
of great value and size ; knives, of so keen an edge as one
could not touch them, nor was the metal of our colour,
but more pale and Uvid ; fans, like those our ladies use,
but much larger, and with long handles curiously carved
and filled with Chinese characters : a sort of paper very
• A Romau Catholic.
380 DIARY OF [LONDON,
broad, thin, and fine like abortive parchment, and exqui-
sitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceeding glorious
and pretty to look on, and seeming to be like that which
my Lord Verulam describes in his "Nova Atlantis;"
several other sorts of paper, some written, others printed ;
prints of landscapes, their idols, saints, pagods, of most
ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, to which
they paid devotion ; pictures of men and countries, rarely
painted on a sort of gummed calico, transparent as glass ;
flowers, trees, beasts, birds, &c., excellently wrought in a
kind of sleeve silk, very natural; divers drugs that our
druggists and physicians could make nothing of, especially
one which the Jesuit called Lac Tigridis : it looked like a
fungus, but was weighty like metal, yet was a concretion,
or coagulation, of some other matter ; several book MSS.;
a grammar of the language written in Spanish ; with innu-
merable other rarities.
1st July. Went to see Mr. Povey's * elegant house in
Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, where the perspective in his court,
painted by Streeter, is indeed excellent, with the vases in
imitation of porphyry, and fountains ; the inlaying of his
closet ; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of his
wine-bottles.
7th. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur
Slingsby's lottery, a desperate debt owing me long since
in Paris.
14th. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards,
now going for Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley;
thence, to Eltham, to see Sir John Shaw's new house, now
building; the place is pleasant, if not too wet, but the
house not well contrived, especially the roof and rooms too
low pitched, and the kitchen where the cellars should be ;
the orangery and aviary handsome, and a very large plan-
tation about it.
19th. To London, to see the event of the lottery which
his Majestyhad permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up
for one day in the Banqueting-House, at Whitehall; I
gaining only a trifle, as well as did the King, Queen-
• A Mr. Povey, lived at BcUsize House, in Hampstead, in 171 8, who was a
coal-merchant, though not trained to the business ; he \vi'ote many books,
some discovering indirect practices in the coal-trade, in govemmeut-oflBces,
&c. (See under 1676, Feb.) Park's Hist, of Hampstead, p. 156.
1664.] JOHN EVELYN. 381
Consort, and Queen-Mother, for near thirty lots ; which
was thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the
master of it, who was, in truth, a mere shark.
21st. I dined with my Lord Treasurer at Southampton-
House, where his Lordship used me with singular huma-
nity. I went in the afternoon to Chelsea, to wait on the
Duke of Ormond, and returned to London.
28th. Came to see me Monsieur Zuylichem, Secretary
to the Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, a rare
lutinist, with Monsieur Oudart.
3rd August. To London ; a concert of excellent musi-
cians, especially one Mr, Berkenshaw, that rare artist, who
invented a mathematical way of composure very extraor-
dinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but without much
harmony.
8th. Came the sad and unexpected news of the death of
Lady Cotton, wife to my brother, George, a most excellent
lady.
9th. "Went with my Brother Richard to Wotton, to visit
and comfort my disconsolate brother; and, on the 13th,
saw my friend, Mr. Charles Howard, at Dipden, near
Dorking.
16th. I went to see Sir "Vyilliam Ducie's house at Charl-
ton, which he purchased of my excellent friend. Sir Henry
Newton, now nobly furnished.
22nd. I went from London to Wotton, to assist at the
funeral of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in
our dormitory there, she being put up in lead. Dr. Owen
made a profitable and pathetic discourse, concluding with
an eulogy of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It
was a very solemn funeral, with about fifty mourners. I
came back next day with my wife to London.
2nd September. Came Constantine Huygens, Signor de
Zuylichem, Sir Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew,
and other friends, to spend the day with us.
5th October. To our Society. There was brought a
new-invented instrument of music, being a harpsichord
with gut-strings, sounding Uke a concert of viols with an
organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone of parchment
that rubbed horizontally against the strings.
6th. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr.
382 DIARY OF [OXFORD,
Harvey, in the Anatomy Theatre in the College of Physi-
cians ; after which, I was invited by Dr. Alston, the Pre-
sident, to a ma^ificent feast.
7th. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters
of Chancery, in Great St. Bartholome^r's ; passing the
evening at Whitehall with the Queen, &c.
8th. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty^s Resident in
Germany, came to visit me; he was a wise and learned
gentleman, and, as he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius,
the Encyclopedist.
15th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, where was the
Duke of Ormond, Earl of Cork, and Bishop of Winchester.
After dinner, my Lord Chancellor and his lady carried me
in their coach to see their palace* (for he now lived at
Worcester-House, in the Strand), building at the upper
end of St. Jameses-street, and to project the garden. In
the evening, I presented him with my book on Architec-
ture,-j- as before I had done to his Majesty and the Queen-
Mother. His lordship caused me to stay with him in his
bed-chamber, discoursing of several matters very late, even
till he was going into his bed.
17th. I went with my Lord Viscount Cornbury to Corn-
bury, in Oxfordshire, to assist him in the planting of the
park, and bear him company, with Mr. Belin and Mr. May,
in a coach Avith six horses; dined at Uxbridge, lay at
Wycombe.
18th. At Oxford. Went through Woodstock, where we
beheld the destruction of that royal seat and park by the
late rebels, and arrived that evening at Cornbury, a house
lately built by the Earl of Denbigh, in the middle of a
sweet park, walled with a dry wall. J The house is of
excellent freestone, abounding in that part, (a stone that
is fine, but never sweats, or casts any damp) ; it is of ample
* There is a large view of it engraved. The Chancellor, in the Continuation
of his Life, laments the having built it, on account of the great cost, and the
unpopularity which its magnificence created. He had little enjoyment of it,
as will be seen hereafter.
f « Parallel between Ancient and Modem Architecture, originally written
in French, by Roland Freart, Sicur de Chambray," and translated by Evelyn.
See his " Miscellaneous "Writings," 4to, 1825, pp. 337 — 348.
J This mansion was some years since the residence of Francis Almeric,
created Baron Churchill, brother of George, late Duke of Marlborough.^ _^
1664.J JOHN EVELYN. 383
dimensions, has goodly cellars, the paving of the hall
admirable for its close laying. "We designed a handsome
chapel that was yet wanting : as Mr. May had the stables,
which indeed are very fair, having set out the walks in the
park and gardens. The lodge is a pretty solitude, and the
ponds very convenient ; the park well stored.
20th. Hence, to see the famous wells, natural and artificial
grots and fountains, called Bushell's Wells, at Eustone.*
This Bushell had been secretary to my Lord Verulam. It
is an extraordinary sohtude. There he had two mummies ;
a grot where he lay in a hammock, like an Indian. Hence,
we went to Dichley, an ancient seat of the Lees, now Sir
Henry Lee's; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a
pretty bowling-green. My Lady gave us an extraordinary
dinner. This gentleman's mother was Countess of Roches-
ter, who was also there, and Sir "Walter St. John. There
were some pictures of their ancestors, not ill painted ; the
great-grand father had been Knight of the Garter : there
was the picture of a Pope, and our Saviour's head. So we
retiuned to Cornbury.
24th. "We dined at Sir Timothy Tyrill's, at Shotover.
This gentleman man'ied the daughter and heir of Dr. James
Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, that learned prelate. There
is here in the grove a fountain of the coldest water I ever
felt, and very clear. His plantation of oaks and other
timber is very commendable. We went in the evening to
Oxford, lay at Dr. Hyde's, Principal of Magdalen- Hall,
(related to the Lord Chancellor), brother to the Lord
Chief-Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, who lost his head
for his loyalty. We were handsomely entertained two
days. The Vice-Chancellor, who with Dr. PeU, Dean of
Christ Church, the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queen's,
and several Heads of houses, came to visit Lord Gornbury
(his father being now Chancellor of the University), and
next day invited us aU to dinner. I went to visit Mr. Boyle
(now here), whom I found with Dr. WaUis and Dr. Chris-
topher Wren, in the tower of the schools, with an inverted
tube, or telescope, observing the discus of the sun for the
* Bashell published a pamphlet respecting his contrivances here ; and, in
Plott's Oxfordsliire, is an engraving of the rock, the fountains, &c., belonging
to it. See an account of him in the History of Surrey, Vol. HI., p. 523, and
Appendix cxlix.
384 • DIARY OP [oxford,
passing of Mercury that day before it ; but the latitude
was so great that nothing appeared ; so we went to see the
rarities in the Library, where the keepers showed me my
name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of
some medals, and pictures of the muscular parts of man's
body. Thence, to the new Theatre, now building at an
exceeding and royal expense by the Lord Archbishop of
Canterbury [Sheldon], to keep the Acts in for the future,
till now being in St. Mary's church. The foundation had
been newly laid, and the whole designed by that incom-
parable genius my worthy friend. Dr. Christopher Wren,
who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in
some particulars. Thence, to see the picture on Hhe wall
over the altar at All Souls, being the largest piece of fresco-
painting (or rather in imitation of it, for it is in oil of
turpentine) in England, not ill designed by the hand of
one Fuller ; yet I fear it wiU not hold long. It seems too
full of nakeds for a chapel.
Thence, to New College, and the painting of Magdalen
chapel, which is on blue cloth in chiar oscuro, by one
Greenborow, being a Coena Domini, and a Last Judgment
on the wall by Fuller, as is the other, but somcAvhat
varied.
Next to Wadham, and the Physic Garden, where were
two large locust-trees, and as many platani (plane-trees),
and some rare plants under the culture of old Bobart.*
26th. We came back to Beaconsfield ; next day, to
London, where we dined at the Lord Chancellor's, with
my Lord Bellasis.
27th. Being casually in the privy gallery at Whitehall,
his Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noble-
men for my book of Architecture, and again for my
" Sylva," saying they were the best designed and useful
* Jacob Bobart, a German, was appointed the first keeper of the Physic
Garden, at Oxford. There is a fine print of him, after Loggan, by Burghers,
dated 1675. Also a small whole-length in the frontispiece of Vortmnnus, a
poem on that garden. In this he is dressed in a long vest, with a beard.
One of this family was bred up at college in Oxford ; but quitted his studies
for the profession of the Whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (liis own
property) for many years with great credit. In 181 3, he broke his leg by an
accident ; and, in 1814, from the respect he had acquired by his good con-
duct, he was appointed by the University to the place of one of the Esquire
Beadles.
1664.] JOHN EVELYN. 385
for the matter and subject, the best printed and designed
(meaning the taille-douces of the Parallel of Architecture)
that he had seen. He then caused me to follow him alone
to one of the windows, and asked me if I had any paper
about me unwritten, and a crayon ; I presented him with
both, and then laying it on the window-stool, he with his
own hands designed to me the plot for the future building
of Whitehall, together with the rooms of state, and other
particulars. After this, he talked with me of several
matters, asking my advice, in which I find his Majesty had
an extraordinary talent becoming a magnificent prince.
The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to
be made to take care of such sick and wounded and
prisoners of war, as might be expected upon occasion of a
succeeding war and action at sea, war being already
declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased
to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen,
parliament-men, viz. Sir "William Doily, Knt. and Bart.,
Sir Thomas Clifford,* and Bullein Rheymes, Esq. ; with a
salary of 1200Z. a year amongst us, besides extraordinaries
for our care and attention in time of station, each of us
being appointed to a particular district, mine falUng out
to be Kent and Sussex, with power to constitute officers,
physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to dispose
of half of the hospitals through England. After the
council, we kissed his Majesty's hand. At this councU, I
heard Mr. Solicitor Finchf plead most elegantly for the
merchants trading to the Canaries, praying for a new
Charter.
29th. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and
land of the Lord Mayor. % I dined at Guildhall at the
upper table, placed next to Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of
State, opposite to my Lord Chancellor and the Duke of
Buckingham, who sate between Monsieur Comminges, the
French Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond
and Albemarle, Earl of Manchester, Lord-Chamberlain,
and the rest of the great officers of state. My Lord Mayor
came twice up to us, first drinking in the golden goblet his
* Since, Lord Treasurer of England,
t Afterwards, Earl of Nottingham, Lord Chancellor.
X Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day was at the cost of the
Haberdashers' Company.
VOL. I. C C
38^ i)lARY OF [LONDON,
Majesty^s health, then the French King's, as a dompliment
to the Ambassador ; we returned my Lord Mayor's health,
the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheer was not to
be imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an infinite
number of persons at the rest of the tables in that ample
hall. The feast was said to cost 1000/. I slipped away
in the crowd, and came home late.
31st. I was this day 44 years of age; for which I
returned thanks to Almighty God, begging His merciftd
protection for the year to come.
2nd November. Her Majesty, the Queen-Mother, came
across the gallery in Whitehall to give me thanks for my
book of Architecture, which I had presented to her, with
a compliment that I did by no means deserve.
16th. We chose our treasurer, clerks, and messengers,
and appointed our seal, which I ordered should be the
good Samaritan, with this motto, Fac similiter. Painters'
Hall was lent us to meet in. In the great room were
divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had been given
to the Company by several of the wardens and masters of
the Company.
23rd. Our statutes now finished, were read before a full
assembly of the Royal Society.
24th. His Majesty was pleased to tell me what the
conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as
after I found, was the heads of the speech he made at the
re-convention of the Parliament, which now began.
2nd December. We delivered the Privy Council's letters
to the Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark,
that a moiety of the house should be reserved for such
sick and wounded, as should from time to time be sent
from the fleet during the war. This being delivered at
their Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors
of that Hospital, invited us to a great feast in Fishmongers'
Hall.
20th. To London, our last sitting, taking order for our
personal visiting our several districts. I dined at Captain
Cocke's (our Treasurer), with that most ingenious gentle-
man, Matthew Wren, son to the Bishop of Ely, and
Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State.*
• Afterwards, Sir Joseph Williamson, P. R. S., an eminent legislator and
8till greater statesman. He represented Thetford and Rochester in several
1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 337
22nd. I went to the launching of a new ship of two
bottoms, invented by Sir William Petty, on which were
various opinions ; his Majesty being present, gave her the
name of the Experiment: so I returned home, where I
found Sir Himiphry Winch, who spent the day with me.
This year I planted the lower grove next the pond at
Sayes Court. It was now exceeding cold, and a hard
long jfrosty season, and the comet was very visible.
28th. Some of my poor neighbours dined with me, and
others of my tenants, according to my annual custom.
31st. Set my affairs in order, gave God praise for His
mercies the past year, and prepared for the reception of
the Holy Sacrament, which I partook of the next day,
after hearing our minister on the 4th of Galatians,
verses 4. 5., of the mystery of our Blessed Saviour's
Incarnation.
1664-5. 2nd January. This day was published by me that
part of "The Mystery of Jesuitism"* translated and
parliaments. A considerable part of liis wealth was expended in useful 'cha-
rities, or in promoting learning ; and the places for which he had bben
member received much of his bounty. At his death, he left 6,000?. to
Queen's College, Oxford, where he was educated, and at Rochester he
founded a mathematical school, in which Garrick was placed under the first
master, Mr. John Colson, afterwards madiematical professor at Cambridge.
A whole-length portrait in oil of this benevolent character is still hanging in
the Town-hall, at Rochester.
* In a letter to Lord Combury, 2 Jan., 1664, Mr. Evelyn says, " I came to
present your Lordship with your own book [in the margin is written, * The
other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism translated and pubhshed by me'] : I
left it with my Lord your fiatlier, because I would not suifer it to be public
till he had first seen it, who, on your Lordship's score, has so just a title to it.
The particulars, which you will find added after the 4th letter, are extracted
out of several curious papers and passages lying by me, which for being very
J4)po8ite to the controversy, I thought fit to annex, in danger otherwise to
have never been produced." — In another letter to Lord Combury, 9 Feb.,
1664, Mr. Evelyn says he undertook the translation by command of his Lord-
ship, and of his father, the Lord Chancellor.
The authors of the " Biographia Britannica " speak of " The Mystery of
Jesuitism " as one volume ; but in the library at Wotton there are three,'[in
duodecimo, with the following tiUes and contents : the second in order is that
translated by Mr. Evelyn.
« 1. Les Provinciales, or, the Mystery of Jesuitism, discovered in certain
letters^written upon occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne between
the Jansenists and the Molinists, displaying the pernicious Maxims of the
late Casuists. The second edition corrected, with lai;ge additionala. Sicut
c c 2
388 DIARY OF [DOVER,
collected by me, though without my name, containing the
Imaginary Heresy, with four letters and other pieces.
4th. I went in a coach, it being excessive sharp frost
and snow, towards Dover and other parts of Kent, to settle
physicians, chirurgeons, agents, marshals, and other ofi&cers
in all the sea-ports, to take care of such as should be set
on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in pursuance of our
commission reaching from the North Foreland, in Kent,
to Portsmouth, in Hampshire. The rest of the ports in
England were allotted to the other Commissioners. That
evening, I came to Rochester, where I delivered the Privy
Council^ s letter to the Mayor to receive orders from me.
5th. I arrived at Canterbury, and went to the cathedral,
exceedingly well repaired since his Majesty^s return.
6th. To Dover, where Colonel Stroode, Lieutenant of the
Castle, having received the letter 1 brought him from the
Duke of Albemarle, made me lodge in it, and I was
splendidly treated, assisting me from place to place. Here
I settled my first Deputy. The Mayor and officers of the
Customs were very civil to me.
9th. To Deal. — 10th. To Sandwich, a pretty town, about
two miles from the sea. The Mayor and officers of the
Customs were very diligent to serve me. I visited the forts
in the way, and returned that night to Canterbury.
Serpentes. London : Printed for Richard Royston, and are to be sold by
Robert Clave at the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's church in St. Paul's
Church-yard, 1658 pp. 360. Additionals, pp. 147. At the end are the
names of some of the most eminent Casuists.
2. Mvcrr'fipiov ttjs 'Avofilas. That is, Another Part of the Mystery of
Jesuitism ; or, the new Heresy of the Jesuits, publicly maintained at Paris, in
the College of Clermont, the xii of December MDCLXI. declared to all the
Bishops of France, According to the copy printed at Paris. Together with
the Imaginary Heresy, in three Letters, with divers other particulars relatuig
to the abominable Mystery. Never before published in English. London :
Printed by James Flesher, for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred
Majesty, 1664. — 3 letters, pp. 206. Copy of a Letter from the Reverend
Fattier Valerian, a Capuchin, to Pope Alexander 7tli, pp. 207 — 239. The
aense of the French Church, pp. 240 — 254.
3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remarkable
histories of their actions in all parts of the world. Collected either from
books of tlie greatest authority, or most certain and unquestionable records
and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. Faithfully translated into
English (by Dr. Tongue; see hereafter, under 1678, Oct. 1). London:
Printed for Simon Miller, at the Star at the west end of St. Paul's, 1670. —
See Evelyn's " Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, p. 499.
1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 889
11th. To Rochester, when I took order to settle officers
at Chatham.
1 2th. To Gravesend, and returned home. A cold, busy,
but not unpleasant journey.
25th. This night being at Whitehall, his Majesty came
to me standing in the withdrawing-room, and gave me
thanks for publishing " The Mystery of Jesuitism," which
he said he had carried two days in his pocket, read it, and
encouraged me ; at which I did not a little wonder ; I
suppose Sir Robert Murray had given it to him.
27th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, who caused me
after dinner to sit two or three hoiurs alone with him in his
bedchamber.
2nd February. I saw a Masque performed at Court, by
six gentlemen and six ladies, surprising his Majesty, it
being Candlemas-day.
8th. Ash- Wednesday. I visited our prisoners at Chelsea
College, and to examine how the marshal and sutlers
behaved. These were prisoners taken in the war ; they
only complained that their bread was too fine. I dined at
Sir Henry Herbert's, Master of the Revels.
9th. Dined at my Lord Treasurer's, the Earl of South-
ampton, in Bloomsbury, where he was building a noble
square, or piazza,* a little town; his own house stands too
low, some noble rooms, a pretty cedar chapel, a naked
garden to the north, but good air. f I had much discourse
with his lordship, whom I found to be a person of extraor-
dinary parts, but a valetudinarian. — I went to St. James's
Park, where I saw various animals, and examined the
throat of the Onocrotylus, or pelican, a fowl between a
stork and a swan ; a melancholy water-fowl, brought from
Astracan by the Russian Ambassador ; it was diverting to
see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice, or
flounder, to get it right into his gullet at its lower beak
which, being filmy, stretches to a prodigious wideness, when
it devours a great fish. Here was also a small water-fowl,
* The Italians do not mean what we do by piazza ; they only mean a
square.
+ Afterwards, it was called Bedford-House, being the town residence for
many years of the Russell family, but was pulled down in 1800 ; and, on the
site and the adjoining fields, were erected many handsome houses, now called
Russell-Square, Bedford Place, RusseU Place, &c.
ff^ DIARY OP [LONDON,
not bigger than a moorhen, that went almost quite erect,like
the penguin of America ; it would eat as much fish as its
whole body weighed ; I never saw so unsatiable a devourer,
yet the body did not appear to swell the bigger. The
Solan geese here are also great devourers, and are said soon
to exhaust all the fish in a pond. Here was a curious sort
of poultry not much exceeding the size of a tame pigeon,
with legs so short as their crops seemed to touch the
earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork, which was a rarity at
this season, seeing he was loose, and could fly loftily ; two
Balearian cranes, one of which having had one of his legs
broken and cut off" above the knee, had a wooden or boxen
leg and thigh, with a joint so accurately made that the
creature could walk and use it as well as if it had been
natural ; it was made by a soldier. The park was at this
time stored with numerous flocks of several sorts of ordinary
and extraordinary wild fowl, breeding about the Decoy,
which for being near so great a city, and among such a con-
course of soldiers and people, is a singular and diverting
thing. There were also deer of several countries, white ;
spotted like leopards ; antelopes, an elk, red deer, roe-
bucks, stags, Guinea goats, Arabian sheep, &c. There were
withy-pots, or nests, for the wild fowl to lay their eggs in,
a little above the surface of the water.
23rd. I was invited to a great feast at Mr. Rich's (a
relation of my Wife's, now Reader at Lincoln's Inn) ;
where was the Duke of Monmouth, the Archbishop of
Canterbury, Bishops of London and Winchester, the
Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the Judges,
and several other great men.
24th. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preached
before the King, on 15 ch. Romans, v. 2, a very formal
discourse, and in blank verse, according to his manner ;
however, he is a good man. — Mr. Phillips, preceptor to my
son, went to be with the Earl of Pembroke's son, my Lord
Herbert.
2nd March. I went with his Majesty into the lobby
behind the House of Lords, where I saw the King and
the rest of the Lords robe themselves, and got into the
House of Lords in a corner near the woolsack, on which
the Lord Chancellor sits next below the throne : the King
sate in all the regalia, the crown-imperial on his head, the
1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 391
sceptre and globe, &c. The Duke of Albemarle bare the
sword, the Duke of Ormond, the cap of dignity. The
rest of the Lords robed and in their places : — a most
splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker
and the House of Commons, and at the bar made a speech,
and afterwards presented several bills, a nod only passing
them, the clerk saying, Le Roy le veult, as to public biUs ;
as to private, Soit faite comme il est desire. Then, his
Majesty made a handsome but short speech, commanding
my Lord Privy Seal to prorogue the Parliament, which he
did, the Chancellor being dl and absent. I had not
before seen this ceremony.
9th. I went to receive the poor creatures that were
saved out of the London frigate, blown up by accident-
with above 200 men.
29th. Went to Goring House,* now Mr. Secretary
Bennett's, ill built, but the place capable of being made a
pretty viUa. His Majesty was now finishing the Decoy in
the Park.
2nd April. Took order about some prisoners sent from
Captain Allen's ship, taken in the Solomon, viz., the brave
men who defended her so gallantly.
6th. Was a day of public humiliation and for success of
this terrible war, begun doubtless at secret instigation of
the French to weaken the States and Protestant interest.
Prodigious preparations on both sides.
6th. In the afternoon, I saw acted "Mustapha," a
tragedy written by the Earl of Orrery.
11th. To London, being now left the only Commissioner
to take all necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and
keep prisoners, dispose of hospitals, &c. ; the rest of the
Commissioners being gone to their several districts, in
expectation of a sudden engagement.
19th. Invited to a great dinner at the Trinity House,
where I had business with the Commissioners of the Navy,
and to receive the second 5000Z. impressed for the service
of the sick and wounded prisoners.
20th. To Whitehall to the King, who called me into
his bed-chamber as he was dressing, to whom I showed
• On the mte whereof Buckingham Palace is now built. There is a small
print of this house.
892 DIARY OF [LONDON,
the letter written to me from the Duke of York from the
fleet, giving me notice of young Evertzen, and some con-
siderable commanders newly taken in fight with the Dart-
mouth and Diamond frigates,* whom he had sent me as
prisoners at war; I went to know of his Majesty how he
would have me treat them, when he commanded me to
hring the young captain to him, and to take the word of
the Dutch Ambassador (who yet remained here) for the
other, that he should render himself to me whenever I
called on him, and not stir without leave. Upon which,
I desired more guards, the prison being Chelsea House,
• In the publication of the Life of King James II. from his own papers
(printed 1816) after describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665,
he says, " Soon after this, three Dutch men-of-war, which had been seen for
some time to the windward of us, and were looking out for their own fleet,
bore down in order to join it. One of them was a great ship of above 80
guns, which for want of some repairs had been left by Cornelius Evertzen to
his son, with orders to follow ; the other two were not of the same force.
These being to windward, endeavoured to join the head of their fleet, and
young Evertzen, being a mettled man, and having a mind to distinguish him-
self, resolved to run on board of the Plymouth, hoping to bear her down ; but
Sir Thomas Allen, perceiving by Evertzen's working what his design was,
brought his ship to at once, so that Evertzen missed his aim, though he came
so near it that the yard-arms of both ships touched, and they gave each other
a severe broadside in passing ; after which, Evertzen and the other two made
a shift to join their own fleet, and Sir Thomas Allen continued leading as
before, till finding himself extremely disabled, he was forced to lie by." P.
410. — " After this engagement was over, and the Dutch had retired to their
own ports, the Duke of York had brought back the English fleet to the Nore,
he took care to have liis scouts abroad, two of which, the Diamond, Captain
Golding, and the Yarmouth, Captain Aylifi"e, being sent to observe the
motions of the Dutch, they happened to meet with two of the direction-ships
(as the Dutch call them) of 40 odd guns each ; the biggest was commanded
by one Masters, the otlier by young Cornelius Evertzen who, though ours
were of somewhat better force, did not avoid engaging. At the first broad-
side, Golding was slain ; but his Lieutenant, Davis, managed the fight so well,
as did the captain of the Yannouth, that after some hom's' dispute, both the
Dutch ships were taken, though bravely defended, for they lost many men,
and were very much disabled, before they struck. The Duke gave young
Evertzen his liberty ,t in consideration of his father, Cornelius, who had per-
formed several services for the King before his Restoration ; and his
R. H. freed also the other captain for having defended himself so well,'and
made Lieutenant Davis captain of one of those prizes." P. 419.
+ i. e. he recommended it to the King to do so ; for we see he was sent to
London, and presented to the King by Mr. Evelyn.
1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 393
I went also to Lord Arlington (the Secretary Bennett lately
made a Lord) about other business. Dined at my Lord
Chancellor's; none with him but Sir Sackville Crowe,
formerly Ambassador at Constantinople ; we were very
cheerful and merry.
24th. I presented young Captain Evertzen (eldest son
of Cornelius, Vice- Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of
John, now Admiral, a most valiant person) to his Majesty
in his bedchamber. The King gave him his hand to kiss,
and restored him his liberty ; asked many questions con-
cerning the fight (it being the first blood drawn), his
Majesty remembering the many civilities he had formerly
received from his relations abroad, who had now so much
interest in that considerable Province. Then, I was com-
manded to go with him to the Holland Ambassador,
where he was to stay for his passport, and I was to give
him fifty pieces in broad gold. Next day, I had the Am-
bassador's parole for the other Captain, taken in Captain
Allen's fight before Calais. I gave the King an account
of what I had done, and afterwards asked the same favour
for another Captain, which his Majesty gave me.
28th. I went to Tunbridge, to see a solemn exercise at
the free-school there.*
Having taken orders with my marshal about my pri-
soners, and with the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the
wounded enemies, and of our own men, I went to London
again and visited my charge, several with legs and arms
off; miserable objects, God knows !
16th May. To London, to consider of the poor orphans
and widows made by this bloody beginning, and whose
husbands and relations perished in the London frigate, of
which there were fifty widows, and forty-five of them with
child.
26th. To treat with the Holland Ambassador at Chelsea,
for release of divers prisoners of war in Holland on
exchange here. After dinner, being called into the Council-
• There is an annual visitation of the Skinners' Company of London, who
are the patrons, at which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them by the
senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesimus Knox (D. D. by an American Uni-
versity), author of many works, some of which have gone through many
editions, was master from about 1779 to 1812, when he resigned in favour of
his son, the R«v. Thomas Knox.
394 DIARY OF [LONDON,
Chamber at Whitehall, I gave his Majesty an account
of what I had done, informing him of the vast charge
upon us, now amounting to no less than 1000/. weekly.
29th. I went with my little boy to my district in Kent,
to make up accounts with my officers. Visited the
Governor at Dover Cattle, where were some of my pri-
soners.
3rd June. In my return, went to Gravesend ; the fleets
being just now engaged, gave special orders for my officers
to be ready to receive the wounded and prisoners.
5th. To London, to speak with his Majesty and the
Duke of Albemarle for horse and foot guards for the pri-
soners at war, committed more particularly to my charge
by a commission apart.
8th. I went again to his Grace, thence to the Council,
and moved for another privy seal for 20,000/., and that I
might have the disposal of the Savoy Hospital for the
sick and wounded ; all which was granted. Hence to the
Royal Society, to refresh among the philosophers.
Came news of his Highnesses victory, which indeed
might have been a complete one, and at once ended the
war, had it been pursued, but the cowardice of some, or
treachery, or both, frustrated that. We had, however,
bonfires, beUs, and rejoicing in the city. JSext day, the
9th, I had instant orders to repair to the Downs, so as I
got to Rochester this evening. Next day, I lay at Deal,
where I found all in readiness ; but, the fleet being
hindered by contrary winds, I came away on the 12th,
and went to Dover, and returned to Deal; and, on the
13th, hearing the fleet was at Solbay, I went homeward,
and lay at Chatham, and, on the 14th, I got home. On
the 15th, came the eldest son of the present Secretary of
State to the French King, with much other company, to
dine with me. After dinner, I went with him to London,
to speak to my Lord General for more guards, and gave
his Majesty an account of my journey to the coasts under
my inspection. I also waited on his Royal Highness, now
come triumphant from the fleet, gotten into repair. See
the whole history of this conflict in my " History of the
Dutch War." *
20th. To London, and represented the state of the sick
♦ See likewise Pepys' Diary, edited by Lord Braybrooke. ■
1666.] JOHN EVELYN. 396
and wounded to his Majesty in Council, for want of
money ; lie ordered I should apply to my Lord Treasurer
and Chancellor of the Exchequer, upon what funds to raise
the money promised. We also presented to his Majesty
divers expedients for retrenchment of the charge.
This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to
Monsieur Comminges, the French Ambassador, and his
Highness granted me six prisoners, Embdeners, who were
desirous to go to the Barbadoes with a merchant.
22nd. We waited on the Chancellor of the Exchequer,
and got an Order of Council for our money to be paid to
the Treasurer of the Navy for our Receivers.
23rd. I dined with Sir Robert Paston, since Earl of
Yarmouth, and saw the Duke of Verneuille, base brother
to the Queen-Mother, a handsome old man, a great hunter.
The Duke of York told us that, when we were in fight,
his dog sought out absolutely the very securest place in all
the vessel. — In the afternoon, I saw the pompous recep-
tion and audience of El Conde de Molino, the Spanish
Ambassador, in the Banqueting-house, both their Majesties
sitting together under the canopy of state.
30th. To Chatham ; and, 1st July, to the fleet with Lord
Sandwich, now Admiral, with whom I went in a pinnace
to the Buoy of the Nore, where the whole fleet rode at
anchor ; went on board the Prince, of ninety brass ord-
nance, haply the best ship in the world both for building
and sailing ; she had 700 men. They made a great huzz^,
or shout, at our approach, three times. Here we dined
with many noblemen, gentlemen, and volunteers, served
in plate and excellent meat of all sorts. After dinner,
came his Majesty, the Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I
saw the King knight Captain Custance for behaving so
bravely in the late fight. It was surprising to behold the
good order, decency, and plenty of all things in a vessel
so full of men. The ship received a hundred cannon shot
in her body. Then I went on board the Charles, to which,
after a gun was shot off", came all the flag-officers to his
Majesty, who there held a General Council, which deter-
mined that his Royal Highness should adventure himself
no more this summer. I came away late, having seen the
most glorious fleet that ever spread sails. We returned
in his Majesty's yacht with my Lord Sandwich and
396 DIARY OP [LONDON,
Mr. Vice-Chamberlain, landing at Chatham on Sunday
morning.
5th July. I took order for 150 men, who had been
recovered of their wounds, to be carried on board the
Clove Tree, Carolus Quintus, and Zealand, ships that had
been taken by us in the fight ; and so returned home.
7 th. To London, to Sir William Coventry ; and so to
Sion, where his Majesty sat at Council during the contagion;
when business was over, I viewed that seat belonging to
the Earl of Northumberland, built out of an old nunnery,
of stone, and fair enough, but more celebrated for the
garden than it deserves : yet there is excellent wall-fruit,
and a pretty fountain ; nothing else extraordinary.
9th. I went to Hampton-Court, where now the whole
Court was, to solicit for money ; to carry intercepted
letters; confer again with Sir William Coventry, the
Duke^s secretary; and so home, having dined with Mr.
Secretary Morice.
16th. There died of the plague in London this week
1100; and, in the week following, above 2000. Two houses
were shut up in our parish.
2nd August. A solemn Fast through England to de-
precate God^s displeasure against the land by pestilence
and war ; our Doctor preaching on 26 Levit. v. 41, 42,
that the means to obtain remission of punishment was not
to repine at it ; but humbly to submit to it.
3rd. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, Lord
General of all his Majesty^s Forces, to visit me, and
carried me to dine with him.
4th. I went to Wotton with my Son and his tutor,
ISIr. Bohun, Fellow of New College (recommended to me
by Dr. Wilkins, and the President of New College,
Oxford), for fear of the pestilence, still increasing in Lon-
don and its environs. On my return, I called at Durdans,
where I found Dr. Wilkins, Sir William Petty, and Mr.
Hooke, contriving chariots, new rigging for ships, a wheel
for one to run races in, and other mechanical inventions ;
perhaps three such persons together were not to be found
elsewhere in Europe for parts and ingenuity.
8th. I waited on the Duke of Albemarle, who was re-
solved to stay at the Cock-pit, in St. James's Park. Died
this week in London 4000.
1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 397
15th. There perished this week 5000.
28th. The contagion still increasing, and growing now
all about us, I sent my Wife and whole family (two or
three necessary servants excepted) to my brother^s at
Wotton, being resolved to stay at my house myself, and
to look after my charge, trusting in the providence and
goodness of God.
5th September. To Chatham, to inspect my charge, with
900/. in my coach.
7th. Came home, there perishing near 10,000 poor
creatures weekly ; however, I went all along the city and
suburbs from Kent Street to St. Jameses, a dismal pas-
sage, and dangerous to see so many coffins exposed in the
streets, now thin of people ; the shops shut up, and all in
mournful silence, not knowing whose turn might be next.
I went to the Duke of Albemarle for a pest-ship, to wait on
our infected men, who were not a few.
14th. I went to Wotton ; and, on 16th September, to
visit old Secretary Nicholas, being now at his new pur-
chase of West Horsley, once mortgaged to me by Lord
Viscount Montague : a pretty dry seat on the Down.
Returned to Wotton.
17th. Receiving a letter from Lord Sandwich of a de-
feat given to the Dutch, I was forced to travel all Sunday.
I was exceedingly perplexed to find that near 3000 priso-
ners were sent to me to dispose of, being more than I had
places fit to receive and guard.
25th. My Lord-Admiral being come from the fleet to
Greenwich, I went thence with him to the Cock-pit, to
consult with the Duke of Albemarle. I was peremptory
that, unless we had 10,000/. immediately, the prisoners
would starve, and it was proposed it should be raised out
of the East India prizes now taken by Lord Sandwich.
They being but two of the commission, and so not em-
powered to determine, sent an express to his Majesty and
Council, to know what they should do. In the meantime,
I had five vessels, with competent guards, to keep the pri-
soners in for the present, to be placed as I should think best.
After dinner (which was at the General's) I went over to
visit his Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury, at Lambeth.
28th. To the General again, to acquaint him of the
398 DIARY OP [gratesbhd,
deplorable state of our men for want of provisions :
returned with orders.
29th. To Erith, to quicken the sale of the prizes lying
there, with order to the commissioner who lay on board till
they should be disposed of, 5000/. being proportioned for
my quarter. Then I delivered the Dutch Vice- Admiral,
who was my prisoner, to Mr. Lo . . . .* of the Marshalsea, he
giving me bond in 500/. to produce him at my call. I
exceedingly pitied this brave unhappy person, who had
lost with these prizes 40,000/. after 20 years' negotiation
[trading] in the East Indies. I dined in one of these
vessels, of 1200 tons, full of riches.
1st October. This afternoon, whilst at evening prayers,
tidings were brought me of the birth of a Daughter at
Wotton, after six Sons, in the same chamber I had first
took breath in, and at the first day of that month, as I
was on the last, 45 years before.
4th. The monthly Fast.
11th. To London, and went through the whole City,
having occasion to alight out of the coach in several places
about business of money, when I was environed with mul-
titudes of poor pestiferous creatures begging alms : the
shops universally shut up, a dreadful prospect ! I dined
with my Lord General; was to receive 10,000/., and had
guards to convey both myself and it, and so returned
home, through God's infinite mercy.
17 th. I went to Gravesend; next day to Chatham ; thence,
to Maidstone, in order to the march of 500 prisoners to
Leeds Castle, which I had hired of Lord Culpeper. I was
earnestly desired by the learned Sir Roger Twisden, and
Deputy-Lieutenants, to spare Maidstone from quartering
any of my sick flock. Here, Sir Edward Brett sent me
some horse to bring up the rear. This country, from
Rochester to Maidstone and the Downs, is very agreeable
for the prospect.
21st. I came from Gravesend, where Sir J. Grifiith, the
Governor of the Fort, entertained me very handsomely.
81st. I was this day 45 years of age, wonderfully pre-
served ; for which I blessed God for His infinite goodness
towards me,
* Mr. Lowman.
166S.] JOHN EVELYN. 399
23rd November. Went home, the contagion having now
decreased considerably.
27th. The Duke of Albemarle was going to Oxford,
where both Court and Parliament had been most part of
the summer. There was no small suspicion of my Lord
Sandwich having permitted divers commanders, who were
at the taking of the East India prizes, to break bulk, and
take to themselves jewels, silks, &c. : though I believe
some whom I could name filled their pockets, my Lord
Sandwich himself had the least share. However, he un-
derwent the blame, and it created him enemies, and pre-
possessed the Lord General, for he spake to me of it with
much zeal and concern, and I believe laid load enough on
Lord Sandwich at Oxford.
8th December. To my Lord of Albemarle (now returned
from Oxford), who was declared General at Sea, to the no
small mortification of that excellent person the Earl of
Sandwich, whom the Duke of Albemarle not only sus-
pected faulty about the prizes, but less valiant ; himself
imagining how easy a thing it were to confound the Hol-
landers, as well now as heretofore he fought against them
upon a more disloyal interest.
25th. Kept Christmas with my hospitable Brother, at
Wotton.
30th. To Woodcot, where I supped at my Lady Mor-
daunt's at Ashted, where was a room hung with pintado^
full of figures great and small, prettily representing sundry
trades and occupations of the Indians, with their habits ;
here supped also Dr. Duke, a learned and facetious gen-
tleman.
31st. Now blessed be God for His extraordinary mercies
and preservation of me this year, when thousands, and
ten thousands, perished, and were swept away on each
side of me, there dying in our parish this year 406 of the
pestilence !
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
Page 4, line 2 from bottom. " The Bohemians' defection from the
Emperor Mattliias."
Evelyn alludes to the insurrection of the Bohemians on the 12th of May,
1618. The Emperor died soon after, and tlie revolted Bohemians offered
the crown to the Elector Palatine Frederic, who had married Elizabeth,
daughter of James I. ; whereupon there was great excitement throughout
England, in consequence of the backwardness of the king to assist his son-in-
law in the struggle for a kingdom, for which the people willingly, as Evelyn
in a subsequent page informs us, made " large contributions." This is the
" talk and stir" to which Evelyn has just alluded in connection with Count
Gondomar, whose influence had been used with James to withdraw him from
the Protestant cause.
Page 6, line 1.3. " The Lord of Castlehaven."
Mervyn Touchet, second Earl of Castlehaven ; convicted by a court of
twenty-seven lords, with the Lord Keeper, sitting in Westminster Hall, of
crimes of the grossest description ; and in pursuance of their sentence,
executed on Tower Hill, May 14, 1631.
Page 7, line 12. ** My Lord of Lindsay, then Admiral."
Robert Bertie, tenth Baron Willoughby d'Eresby, subsequently created
Earl of Lindsey, a Knight of the Garter. He was at different times Lord
High Chamberlain, Lord High Admiral, Constable of England, and Governor
of Berwick ; and was general of the king's forces at the breaking out of
the Civil War. He was in command at the Battle of Edgehill, in 1642 ; but,
opposing Prince Rupert's pretensions, he surrendered a responsibility which
the weakness of Charles would have had him divide with a " boy," put himself
at tlie head of his regiment, fought with heroic gallantry, and fell covered with
wounds.
Page 10.
Evelyn should have said " till twenty years after," not thirty. Coffee was
introduced into England, and coffee-houses set up in 1658.
Page 1 5. « Vanderborcht " and « Hollar."
Henry Vanderborcht, a painter, of Brussels, lived at Frankendale. Lord
Arundel, finding his son Henry at Frankfort, sent him to Mr. Petty, then
collecting for him in Italy, and afterwards kept him in his service as long as
he lived. Vanderborcht, the younger, was both painter and engraver; he drew
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 401
many of the Arimdelian curiosities, and etched several things, both in that
and the Royal Collection. A book of his drawings from tiie former, con-
taining 567 pieces, is preserved at Paris ; and is described in the catalogue
of L'Orangerie, p. 199. After the death of the Earl, the younger Henry
entered into the service of the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles XL, and
lived in esteem in London for a considerable time ; but returned to Ant-
werp, and died there. See Horace Walpole's Ariecdotes of Painting. Win-
ceslaus Hollar was bom at Pi'ague, in Bohemia, in the year 1 607, and came
to England in the suite of the Earl of Arundel, in the year 1636. In the
ti'oubles he distinguished himself as a Royalist, for which he was imprisoned
by the Parliament. He escaped to the continent, but returned at the
Restoi'ation, and died in great distress, March 28th, 1677.
Pciffc 15. Entries of 25th and 27th April, and 12th of May.
The reader may here remark the circumstance, that between the entries
which relate to Lord Strafford, the young Prince of Orange came over to
make love to the Princess Royal, then twelve years old ; and that the
maiTiage was subsequently celebrated amid extraordinary Court rejoicings
and festivities, in which the King took a prominent part, in the short interval
which elapsed between the sentence and execution of the King's great and
unfortunate minister. It may not be out of place here to indicate the more
important passages printed for the first time in the present edition of the
Diai'y) the minor alterations need not be pointed out), and which occur chiefly
in the commencing forty pages. They will be found at pp. 1, 3, 4, 5, 10, 1 1 ,
12, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 27, and 29.
Page 18. " Queen of Bohemia's Court."
Elizabeth, daughter of James I , mother of the Princes Maurice and
Rupert ; her yomigest daughter was Sophia, Electoress of Hanover, whose
eldest son was George I.
Page\8. «' Lord Finch."
Sir John Finch, Speaker of the House of Commons in 1627; Attorney-
General to the Queen (Henrietta Maria) in 1635 ; the following year
promoted to be Judge of the Common Pleas ; afterwards Lord Chief
Justice; thence promoted to be Lord Keeper of the Great Seal in 1637 ;
and in April, 1640, advanced to the peerage as Baron Finch. He died in
1660.
Page 1 9. « Colonel Goring."
This was George, distinguished in tlie Civil Wars as General Goring, for
his military services in the cause of the King. He subsequently obtained
additional reputation as a lieutenant-general in the army of the King of
Spain employed in the Netherlands. He was the eldest son of Sir George
Goring, in 1632 created Baron Goring, and in 1644 imised to the Earldom
of Norwich, for his services to Charles I., before and after the troubles.
General Goring died before his father, in 1662.
Page 23.
In the early editions of this Diary, tlie entry relating to the Amsterdam
Hospital stood thus : — " But none did I so much admire as an hospital for
their lame and decrepid soldiers, it being for state, order, and accommoda-
tions, one of the worthiest things that the world can show of that nature.
Indeed it is most remarkable what provisions are here made and maintain'd
for pubUck and charitable purposes, and to protect the poor from misery,
and the country from beggai*s." The passage in the text would appear to
VOL. I. D D
402 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
have received Evelyn's later correction. The reader will remember with
some interest, in connexion with this remark on the hospital of Amsterdam,
that the first stone of Greenwich Hospital was afterwards laid by Evelyn.
Page 23.
Some slight differences may be marked in the description of the Dutch
towns as it stands in the eariier editions. These and other discrepancies
are explained in the preface to the present edition ; and, in all the more
important passages, the text as first printed is preserved in these notes.
"... sluices, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent than to see
a whole navy of merchants and others environ'd with streets and houses,
every man's bark or vessel at anchor before his very door ; and yet the
street so exactly strait, even, and uniform, that nothing can be more pleasing,
especially being so frequently planted and shaded with the beautiful Ume-trees,
set in rows before every man's house."
Pufje 24.
The description of the Briloft is thus given in the earher editions :
" There was a lamp of brass, with eight sockets from the middle stem,
like those we use in churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of
water issuing as out of their wicks, the whole branch hanging loose upon a
tack in the midst of a beam, and without any other perceptible commerce
with any pipe, so that, unless it were by compression of the air with a
syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be done. There was a chime
of porcelain dishes, which fitted to clock-work and rung many ohanges and
tunes." That of the Reiser's Graft stands thus : " The Reiser's Graft, or
Emperor's Street, appears a city in a wood through the goodly ranges of
the stately lime-trees planted before each man's door, and at the margin
of that goodly aquse-duct, or river, so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind
of white sun-bak'd brick), and of which material the spacious streets on
either side are paved. This part of Amsterdam is gained upon the main
sea, supported by piles at an immense charge. Prodigious it is to consider
the multitude of vessels which continually ride before this City, which is
certainly the most busy concourse of mortals now upon the whole earth,
and the most addicted to commerce."
Page 25.
The entry as to the booksellers is thus expressed in the earher editions :
" I went to Hundius's shop to buy some maps, greatly pleased with the
designs of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the setter forth of the
Atlas's and other works of that kind, is worthy seeing."
Page 26. " The famous Dan Heinsius."
Daniel Heinsius, a scholar and critic, who edited numerous editions
of the Classics. He was chosen professor of history at Leyden ; then
secretary and librarian of the University. In 1619, he was appointed secre-
tary to the states of Holland, at the Synod of Dort ; and the fame of his
learning became so diffused, that the Pope endeavoured to draw him to
Rome. He was made a Rnight of St. Mark by the Republic of Venice, and
the Ring of Sweden honoured him with the title of Counsellor. He died in
January, 1 655. The Elzevir printers are well known.
Page 32, line 52. « Sir Henry De Vic."
For twenty years resident at Brussels for Charles II ; also Chancellor
of the Order of the Garter ; and in 1 662 appointed Comptroller of the
Household of the Duke of York. He died in 1672.
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 403
Pagt 32.
In the earlier editions of the Diary, the entry descriptive of the tower of
Antwei-p Cathedral was taken from Evelyn's earlier text. " It is a very
venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner ; the tower is of an excessive
height. This I ascended, that I might the better take a view of the country
about it, which happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly hot,
and darted the rays without any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection
to us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water about it,
that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of some such
substance as this earthly globe consists of ; perceiving all the adjacent country
at so small a horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as I could hardly
look against, save where the river, and other large water within our view,
appeared of a more dark and imiform colour, resembling those spots in the
moon supposed to be seas there, according to our new philosophy, and
viewed by optical glasses. I numbered in this church 30 privileged altars,
whereof tiiat of St. Sebastian's was rarely painted."
Page b\, linen. *' Monsieur Saracin."
James Sarazin, a celebrated sculptor, much employed by the royal family
of France. For Cardinal RicheUeu he executed, in silver and gold, Anne
of Austria's offering to the Chapel of Loretto, in the form of a group
representing the dauphin's presentation to the Virgin Mary. Bom 1590,
died 1660.
Page 66.
In the first and second quarto editions of the Diary many trifling personal
details, such as this mention of the author liaving sent his own picture in
watercolours to his sister, were omitted ; but they were restored by Mr.
Upcott in the subsequent octavos. It is not necessary to point them out in
detail. They are always of this personal character (for other examples, the
mention of the wet weather preventing the diarist from stirring out, at
p. 117, and that of his coming weary to his lodgings, at p. 114, might be
cited), and seldom of any importance. There is only one passage in the
quarto editions which has not been repeated in the octavos, and it would be
difficult to say what induced Mi\ Upcott to omit in the latter the incident it
describes ; imless Evelyn's apparent confusion as to the name of the inn at
Orleans where the adventure occun-ed (for he calls it the White Lion as
well as the White Cross) may have caused him to doubt the miracle alto-
gether. It occurs in the mention of his coming to Orleans (at p. 67),
where, as printed in the quarto, he adds, " I lay at the White Lion, where I
found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr, Secretary. In the night a cat
kittened on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight legs,
two bodies from the middle downwards, and two tails. I found it dead, but
warm, in the morning when I awaked."
Page 101, line 3 from bottom. " My Lord of Somerset."
Thomas, third son of Edward fourth Earl of Worcester, made a Knight of
the Bath, by King James, and in 1626 created Viscount Somerset, of Cashel,
in Ireland. He died in 1651.
Page 1 08. « Father Kircher."
Athanasius Kircher was bom at Fulds, in Germany, early in the seven-
teenth century. He received his education at Wurtzburg, and in 1635
entered the College of Jesuits, at Avignon. He became a good scholar in
Oiieutal literature, and an admirable mathematician ; but he directed his
D d2
404 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
attention particularly to the study of hieroglyphics. Father Kircher's works
on various abstruse subjects amount to twenty folio volumes, for which he
acquired great renown in his day. On Evelyn's visit to Rome, he was con-
Bidered one of the greatest mathematicians and Hebrew scholars of which
tlie metropolis of Christianity — then the head quarters of learning — could
boast. He died there in 1680. See subsequent passages m the Diary,
p. 313.
Page 108. « Schotti."
Caspar Schott, a native of Wurtzburg, where he was bom in 1608, who
had the advantage of being the favourite pupil of Father Kircher. He
taught philosophy and mathematics at Rome and Palermo, and published
several curious and erudite works in philosophy and natiu-al history ; but
they have long since ceased to possess any authority. He died in 1666.
Page 132, line 28. « Famianus Strada."
Bom at Rome, in 1572 ; after joining the Society of Jesus, in 1592,
appointed professor of rhetoric in their college in Home ; and luiown to
the English reader by his " Prolusiones Academicse," in which he intro-
duced clever imitations of the Latin poets, translations of several of which
Addison published in the ' Guardian.' He died at Rome, in 1649.
PagelSZ. " Isabella Sii-am."
Giovanni Andrea Sirani, a Bolognese artist, had three daughters. The
most celebrated, Elizabetta, born 1638, and died August 1657, is the lady
alluded to by Evelyn as having been so famous a copyist of Guido, of whom
her father was a pupil, and imitator. Her sisters, Anna and Barbara, were
also artists, but never reached the excellence of Elizabetta.
Page 204. « Lord Bruce."
Thomas Bruce, first Earl of Elgin, in Scotland ; created by Charles I.,
on the 13th of July, 1640, Baron Bruce, of Whorlton, Yorkshire, in the
English peerage. He died in 1663.
Page 21 1. « The Cavalier Dr. Veslingius."
John Vesling was bom at Minden, in Germany, in 1598 ; and became
Professor of Anatomy in the University of Padua. Evelyn says that at
his visit he was anatomical and botanical professor, and prefect. He had the
care of the botanical garden, and published a catalogue of its plants. He
■vrrotc also "Syntagma Anatomicum," and shortly afterwards travelled
into Egypt, where he seems to have paid a good deal of attention to the
artificial means of hatching poultry, then an Egyptian marvel, lately a
common exhibition in London. He wrote many other works, and died
in 1649.
Page 214. " Lord Mowbray, eldest son to the Earl of Arundel."
James Lord Mowbray and Maltravers, the eldest son of Lord Arundel,
died before his father. Evelyn's friend was Henry Frederick, the Earl's
second son, who, on his father's death in Italy, succeeded to the earldom of
Arundel. He married, in 1626, EUzabeth, eldest daughter of Esme Stuart,
Earl of March, and afterwards Duke of Lennox ; who will be foimd noticed
occasionally by Evel;^!!. He died April 7, 1652.
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 405
Page 215. " Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to the Earl of Arundel."
Second son of the preceding. He succeeded his elder brother, Thomas, who
had been restored to the dukedom of Norfolk, as sixth duke, though he had
previously been created Baron Howard and Earl of Norwich. Also created
Earl Marshal of England, and died January 11, 1683-4. Evelyn often
mentions this family.
Page 219. " Lord Arundel's grandson Philip, turning Dominican friai',
since Cardinal of Norfolk."
Philip was the third son of Henry Frederick Baron Mowbray. He
entered the Church of Rome, as stated by Evelyn, and afterwards rose to
the dignity of Cardinal and became Lord Almoner to Catherine, consort of
Charles II. He died in 1694.
Page 224. " FeiTarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian College."
Francisco Bernardino Ferrari, born in 1577, and for his extensive know-
ledge of books selected by Frederick Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, as
a proper person to travel and collect books and manuscripts for a uobl«
library he was desirous of founding in that city. He collected a great
number of works in all classes of literature, which, with later additions, has
since been known as the Ambrosian Library. He died in 1669.
Page 239. « His little pupil, the Earl of Carnarvon."
Charles, third Baron Dormer, succeeded, in September, 1643, as second
Earl of Carnarvon ; his father having been killed at Newbury, where he was
in arms for the King as a General of Horse. He died on the 29th of Sep-
tember, 1709.
Page 245. " Dr. Earle."
John Earle was bom at York in 1601, and finished his education at Mer-
ton College, Oxford, where he took his degree of Doctor of Divinity. He was
appointed sub-tutor to Prince Charles, son of Charles I., whom he afterwards
attended when abroad, as chaplain. Returning to England at the Restora-
tion, he was successively made Dean of Westminster, Clerk of the Closet,
Bishop of Worcester, and Bishop of Salisbury. He was the author of a
Latin translation of the " Eikon Basilike," of " Microsmography, or a piece
of the World discovered in Essays and Characters," and of " An Elegy on
Mr. Francis Beaumont." He died at Oxford in 1665.
Page 246. " Sir William Ducy [Ducie], afterwards Lord Downe."
The son of Sir Robert Ducie, the wealthy Lord Mayor, created a baronet
by Charles ; his only return for about 80,000L which Charles had borrowed
from him: Sir William was made one of the Knights, of the Bath, and
created Viscount Downe at the coronation of Charles II. Dying without
issue, his estates descended to the only daughter of his younger brotlier,
whose son was Lord Ducie in 1 720, and from him descended the present
Earl of Ducie.
Page 248. « La Neve."
Probably the artist mentioned by Walpole as Cornelius Neve, who drew a
portrait of Ashmole.
Page 251. "Sir Arthur Hopton, brother to Sir Ralph Lord Hopton,
that noble hero."
Sir Arthur Hopton was uncle, not brother, to Lord Hopton (so well known
for his services to Charles in the course of the Civil War) ; and would have
406 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
succeeded his Lordship in the title, as the latter died childless, but that Sir
Arthur had himself died two years before him, without issue, in the year
1650. The title became extinct.
Page 251. "My worthy friend. Sir John Owen."
A Royalist officer, whose life had been forfeited for the part he took
against the Parliament, but was saved by the timely interposition of
Colonel Hutchinson. The latter humanely spoke for him in the House, though
Sir John was a perfect stranger to him, because he perceived, while the great
noblemen, his companions, found earnest intercessors, no one seemed to know
anything of the Knight, or would offer a word in favour of him. Sir John
Owen afterwards proved himself ungrateful.
Page 251. « Lady Hatton."
Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir Charles Montague, and niece of Henry
Earl of Manchester. She married Sir Christopher Hatton — made a Knight
of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I., who, on the 20th of July, 1643,
created him Baron Hatton, of Kirby, for his devotion to the royal cause.
After the Restoration, he was sworn of the Privy Council, and appointed
governor of Guernsey. He died in 1 670.
Page 252. « Old Alexander Rosse."
Immortalised in Butler's couplet :
" There was an ancient sage Philosopher ;
Who had read Alexander Ross over."
He was a Scotchman, born in 1591 ; and after receiving an education for
the chm'ch, took orders, became master of a free school at Southampton,
and preached, wrote, and taught with a diUgence that ought to have obtained
him other reputation than Butler's ludicrous lines have bestowed upon him.
He died in 1654.
Page 252. «' Lady Catherine Scott, Daughter of the Earl of Norwich."
His youngest daughter ; married to James Scott, Esq., of Scott's Hall,
Kent, supposed to have been a son of Prince Rupert.
Page 252. «* Sir George Cartaret, Governor of Jersey."
George was son and heir to Helier Cartaret, Esq., Deputy-governor of
Jersey, and grandson of Sir Philip Cartaret, who in the reign of Elizabeth
planted a colony in the island (in which his ancestors, from the time of Ed-
ward I., had held lands) to secure it from tlie French, who had fre-
quently sought to obtain possession of it. The son of the Deputy-governor
entered the navy at an early age ; greatly distinguished himself in the
service ; and attracting the attention of the Duke of Buckingham, received
the appointment from Cliarles I., of Joint-governor of Jersey, and Comp-
troller of the Navy. Having served the King during the civil wars, at
the Restoration he was returned to Parliament for Portsmouth, and filled
the office of Treasurer of the Navy. He died January 13th, 1674. Several
members of his family distinguished themselves in the wars of the seventeenth
century, and one of his descendants became a celebrated statesman under
the first and second Georges.
Page 253. « My Lord Wihnot."
Henry, only son of Charles Viscount Wilmot, of Athlone, raised to the
English Peerage by Charles I., in June 29, 1643, as Baron Wilmot, of
Adderbury. He held a command in th« King's cavalry, in which he served
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 407
with distinction at the battle of Roundway Doime ; subsequently assisting
Charles II. to escape from tlie field of Worcester ; tliougli, according to the
King's statement to Pepys, it was rather in the way of hiding from, than in
combating with, his enemies. Nevertheless he was created Earl of Roches-
ter, December 13, 1652, at Paris, where Charles for a short time assumed
the privilege of sovereignty. He died at Dunkirk in 1659, and was suc-
ceeded by his only surviving son, afterwards the notorious Rochester.
Page 253. " Mrs. Barlow, the King's mistress, and mother to the Duke
of Monmouth,"
The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter of Richard Walters, Esq.,
of Haverfordwest. (See Evelyn's striking mention of her in a later passage,
vol. ii., p. 229.) She had two children by the King ; James, subsequently
so celebrated as the Duke of Monmouth, and Mary, whose lot was obscure in
comparison wth that of her brother, but of course infinitely happier. She
married a Mr. William Sarsfield, of Ireland, and after his death, William
Faashawe, Esq.
Page 253. " Mr. William Coventry, afterwards Sir WiUiam."
A member of the Privy Council of Charles II., and Commissioner of the
Treasury, but dismissed the Court for sending a challenge to the Duke of
Buckingham. " He was a man," says Burnet, " of great notions and eminent
virtues ; the best speaker in the House of Commons, and capable of bearing
the chief ministry, as it was once thought he was very near it, and deserved
it more than all the rest did." Evelyn, in a subsequent mention in his
journal, cliaracterises him as **a wise and witty gentleman."
Page 256. " My Lord of Ossory, and Richard, sons to the Marquis
of Oi"monde."
James Butler, Marquis of Ormonde, and Eari of Ossory in the Irish
Peerage, first brought himself into notice when Ireland had for her Lord-
Deputy the Earl of Strafford. A Pai'hament had been siummoned to meet at
Dublin Castle with strict injunctions that tlic members were to come
unarmed, and the young Marquis not having attended to this when he pre-
sented himself at the door, the Usher of the Black Rod demanded his
sword ; whereupon the other fiercely replied, that if he had his sword at all, he
should have it "in his guts." The Lord-Deputy summoned the Marquis of
Ormonde before him in the evening to accoimt for tliis conduct ; when his
Lordship produced the King's writ summoning him to Parliament " ductus
cum gladio." Upon this Strafford fancied so resolute a man would be better
as a friend than as an enemy, resolved to attach him to the King's service and
to his own, and appointed him a member of the Council. The Marquis
was afterwards a staunch friend of Strafford, even in his adversity, and an
equally earnest partizan of tlie King, who bestowed upon him the Order of
the Garter, and appointed him Lord-Deputy of Ireland, and Lord Steward of
the Household. In the Civil Wars he exerted himself zealously in the cause of
his master, till obliged to seek safety with his family in exile. He returned at
the Restoration, and Charles II., on the 20th of July, 1660, raised him to the
Enghsh Peerage by the titles of Baron Butler and Earl of Brecknock, advanced
him in the Irish Peerage to the Dukedom of Ormonde, and again appointed
him to the Lord Lieutenancy of Ireland. He died in 1688. Bishop Burnet
has left a sort of negative character of the Duke, for he describes him as
" a man of great expense, but decent even in his vices, for he always kept
up the forms of religion." He seems to have made himself more accept-
able to Grammont, who neither alludes to his vices nor to his reUgion
408 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
bat, discovering a resemblance in the turn of his wit and the nobiHty of
his manners to his own relative, the Marshal de Grammont, thinks that he
is bound to estimate the Duke at the highest possible appreciation. Of the
sons mentioned by Evelyn, the first was the Duke's second son, Thomas,
Earl of Ossory, who proved himself an efficient commander both by sea and
land, an able statesman, and an accomplished man of letters. According to
Anthony Wood, his heroism in the sea fight with the Dutch, in 1 673, was
•* beyond the fiction of romance ; " and Evelyn's correspondence contains
earnest tributes to his character. On the 24th of September, 1666, he was
summoned to Parliament as Lord Butler, of Moor Park ; and was after-
wards employed as General of the Horse, as member of the Privy Council, and
as deputy for his father in his Irish government. He died July 30, 1680.
Richard, the younger brother of Thomas, also referred to by Evelyn,
Avas created an Irish Peer in 1662, by the titles of Baron Butler, Viscount
TuUogh, and Earl of Arran ; and became an English Peer in 1673, by the
title of Baron Butler, of Weston. He also was deputy for his father, and
distinguished himself both by sea and land, particularly in the naval engage-
ment with the Dutch in 1673, and against the mutinous garrison of CaiTick-
fergus. He died in 1685. Evelyn highly esteemed this family, and makes
frequent allusion to them.
Page 256. « Earl of Chesterfield."
Sir Philip Stanhope, created November 7, 1616, Baron Stanhope of Shel-
ford ; and on the 4th August, 1628, Earl of Chesterfield. At the breaking
out of hostilities with the Parliament, his lordship became a determined
partisan for the King, and garrisoned his house at Shelford, where his son
Philip lost his life, and the place was stonned and bm-ned to the ground.
Lord Chestei-field at last found safety in flight, and retired to France. He
died September 12, 1756.
Page 258. « Lord Stanhope."
Charles, second Baron Stanhope, of Harrington. He died in 1 677. Henry,
son of Philip, first Earl of Chesterfield, and his son PhiUp (subsequently
second Earl), also in succession bore the title of Lord Stanhope.
Page 258. " The famous sculptor Nanteuil."
Robert Nanteuil, who drew cleverly in crayons, and was an admii'able
engraver. Born at Rheims, in 1630, and died at Paris in 1678.
Pa^e 262. ** Sir Thomas Osborne, afterwards Lord Treasurer."
The only son of Sir Edward Osborne, Vice-President of the Council
for the north of England, and Lieutenant-General of the Northern Forces.
Sir Edward had devoted himself to the cause of Charles I., and his son
followed his example. He shared the same fortune as other exiles during
the Protectorate, but at the Restoration was amply rewarded, dignities and
titles being showered upon him witli excessive liberality. Lord High
Treasurer, and Knight of the Garter, he was successively created Baron
Osborne, of Kiveton, and Viscount Latimer, of Danby; Earl of Danby,
Marquis of Carmarthen, and Duke of Leeds, in the English Peerage ; and
Viscount Dumblane, in the Peerage of Scotland. He died July 26, 1712.
The vicissitudes of his official career are well known.
Page 266. ** Mr. Thomas White, a learned Priest, and famous philosopher."
A native of Essex, who was bom in 1582, educated abroad, and, his family
being Catholic, became a priest of that church, and sub-rector of the college
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 409
at Douay. He advocated the Cartesian philosophy, and this brought him
into an extensive coiTespondence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course
of which he Latinised his name into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died
in 1676.
Pcuje 266. « Lord Strafford."
This was William, the eldest son of the Earl who was executed ; but
he was not restored to his father's titles till the Restoration. He died in
1 695. The " Lord Wentworth " adverted to by Evelyn in a preceding page
(253), was the son of the Earl of Cleveland.
Page 267. " The Lord Gerrard."
Chai'les, son of Sir Charles Gerard, having served for some time in the
Netherlands, returned to England in time to join King Charles, when
his dispute with the Parliament was referred to the sword. He was made a
general officer, and eminently distinguished himself on several occasions, for
which the King appointed him lieutenant-general of his horse, and created
him Baron Gerard, of Brandon, on the 8th of November, 1 645. By Charles II.
he was raised to the dignity of Viscount Brandon, and Earl of Macclesfield,
on the 23d of July, 1679 ; but by James II. he was sent to the Tower, in
company with the Lords Stamford and Delamere, and condemned to death,
though afterwards pardoned. He lived five years beyond the Revolution.
Parjt 273. « Mrs. Lane."
Sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the army of Charles II. dis-
persed at the battle of Worcester. She assisted the King in effecting liis
escape after that battle, his Majesty travelling with her disguised as her
serving-man, William Jackson..
Page 278. « My Lord Devonshire."
William, third Earl. He died in 1684. " My young lord," with whom
Evelyn desired that his nephew George might be " brought up," was his only
son, William, created on the 12th of May 1694 Marquis of Harlington and
Duke of Devonshire. He was also Knight of the Garter and Lord Steward
of the Household.
Page 278. « Su- Adam Newton."
Tutor and afterwards secretary to Hemy, Prince of Wales, eldest son of
James I., who, in April, 1620, created him a baronet. An admirable
scholar. After tlie death of Prince Henry, Sir Adam Newton was
appointed treasurer to Prince Charles, and in 1628 succeeded Lord Brooke
as secretary to the Marches of Wales. He died in 1629-30, leaving one son
— Evelyn's " noble friend" — Sir Henry Newton, who, on the decease of the
last surviving daughter of his uncle, Sir Thomas Pickering, succeeded to his
estate and assimaed his name.
Page 283. « Dr. Scarborough."
Sir Charles Scarborough was educated at Cains College, Cambridge, where
he obtained a Fellowship. He afterwards studied medicine ; but making
himself too conspicuous as a Royalist during the troubles, was deprived of
his Fellowship, and found it necessary to retire to Oxford. Subsequently
he practised in London as a physician, and at the Restoration received the
honour of knighthood, and was named one of the King's physicians. He
succeeded Harvey at Sui-geons' Hall as lecturer.
410 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
Page 288. « Sir Robert Stapylton."
A member of a Yorkshire Catholic family, who obtained the post
of Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Prince Charles (Charles II.), occasion-
ally varying his duties by fighting against the Parliamentarians and writing
books. For his services at Edgehill, Charles I, conferred on him the honour
of knighthood ; and, at about the same period, he was made LL.D at Oxford.
At the Restoration, Sir Robert Stapylton appeared as a writer of plays,
poems, and translations. He died in 1669.
Pages 288—9. « My Lord Craven."
WilUam, eldest son of Sir William Craven, Lord Mayor of London, who,
after a good deal of service under Gustavus Adolphus and Henry Prince of
Orange, distinguished himself against the forces of the ParUament, and was
created by Charles I., in 1663, Viscoimt and Earl Craven. He survived
all the changes of the government, and, in the latter years of his life,
acquired some celebrity from an odd peculiarity of taste. He was so sure
to be at any conflagration that occurred in London, that the people said liis
horse " smelt a fiire as soon as it happened." He died, April 9th, 1697,
at the advanced age of eighty-eight. (The word " Cavershara," in the first
line of p. 289, should have been printed between brackets.)
Page 288. Note upon Buckingham House.
This note is not correct. The jint house on the site of the present
Buckingham Palace was called Goring House ; the second, Arlington House ;
the third, Buckingham House, afterwards called the Queen's House, and
pulled down to erect the present Buckingham Palace.
Page 290. " Dr. Ward, Mathematical Professor."
Seth Ward, the son of an attorney, was bom in 1617, at Bantingford,
in Hertfordshire, and finished his education at Sidney College, Cambridge,
where he obtained a fellowship, but was expelled the university in 1744, for
refusing the covenant. Oxford, as usual, received him ; where he succeeded
Greaves, the Savilian Professor of Astronomy ; and in 1654, obtained the
degree of Doctor of Divinity. He was intimately acquainted wth the ab-
stract sciences, and was one of that limited band of scholars at whose
meetings first arose the idea of the Royal Society, in which Evelyn took
80 deep an interest and so active a part. He was elected Master of Trinity
in 1659, which, however, he resigned, when presented with the Rectory of
St. Lawrence Jewry, London. In succession he also became Precentor of
Exeter, Dean, and Bishop, from which see, in 1 667, he was translated to
Salisbury, and was named Chancellor of the Order of the Gai-ter. Dr. Ward
wrote numerous works illustrative of mathematical science and of astronomy,
and opposed Hobbes in a Latin Treatise : he also published several sermons,
and a Philosophical Essay on the Being and Attributes of Grod. He died in
1689, having for some years outlived his faculties.
Page 291. " My dear and excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins."
John Wilkins was the son of an Oxford goldsmith, and was bom in 1614,
at Paisley, near Daventry, in the house of his grandfather, John Dodd, a
celebrated nonconformist divine, and author of a work on the Commandments,
which obtained him the name of the Decalogist. Young Wilkins was edu-
cated at Oxford, for the ministry, matinculated at New Inn Hall, in 1627,
and afterwards graduated at Magdalen Hall. Aubrey says he was as eager
for experimental philosophy at Oxford as Lord Bacon had been at Cambridge.
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 411
As a divine he was early in repute, and received the domestic chapltuncy of the
Count Palatine of the Rhine ; but this did not prevent him from subsequently
adopting the covenant. He then took part with the repubhc, and by his
discourses entirely gained the confidence of its leaders ; through whose
influence he was elected head of Wadham College, and, obtaining a privi-
lege to dispense with the condition of cehbacy attached to that particular
mastership, married in 1656, Robinia, the sister of Oliver Cromwell.
Even his popular sympathies, however, failed to withdraw him from the
cultivation of science ; for at the most troubled period preceding the
execution of Charles, he established a philosophical club, held weekly
at the Bull's Head Tavern, Cheapside, of which the principal rule was a
prohibition of " all discourses of divinity, of state affairs, and of news, other
than what concerned our business of philosophy." Again assisted by
his wife's relations, in 1659, he was appointed to the headship of Trinity
College, Cambridge ; but this proved the last of their good offices, the restora-
tion of the King ensuing in the following year. D*. Wilkins had mean-
while propitiated the Church party by acts of care and kindness for the
privileges of his university while he was in power, and he had no difficulty,
when he had intimated the necessary change in his opinions, in obtaining
the favour of ViUiers, Duke of Buckingham, and the means of Church
advancement. He was first appointed preacher to the societies of Gray's-
Inn; then rector of St. Lawrence, Old Jewry; aftenvards dean of Ripon; and
finally, in 1668, bishop of Chester. In the course of these duties he foimd
leisure to write several works, both scientific and religious ; and no one ac-
quainted with the peculiarities of thinking in his age, will consider it any grave
imputation on his love for philosophy and practical science that he should
have advocated the practicability of a passage to the moon, in a work published
in 1638, under the title of " The Discovery of a New World, or a Discourse
on the World in the Moon," which he followed in 1640 with a treatise
striving to prove the earth a new planet. His other scientific writings were
entitied « Mercury, or the Secret and Swift Messenger," published in 1641,
" Mathematical Alagic, or the Wonders to be performed by Mechanical Geo-
metry," pubhshed in 1648, and "An Essay towards a real Character and
Philosophical Language." His reUgious works were, " Ecclesiastes, or the
gift of Preaching," " A Discourse concerning Providence," an essay " On
the Principles and Duties of Natural Religion," and anotiier " On the Gift
of Prayer." Bishop Wilkins also materially assisted in the estabUshment of
the Royal Society (the first germ of which may be said to have existed in
the Bull's Head Club) ; and devoted himself to the advancement of religion and
science till his death, which took place November 19, 1672, in Chancery-
Lane, at the house of his daughter, who had married a still more eminent
member of the church. Dr. (afterwards Archbishop) Tillotson. Evelyn was
strongly attached to Wilkins, notwithstanding his early connection wth the
revolutionary party ; and the feeling was more than justified by the many
estimable qualities of this remarkable man.
Paye 294. « Pierce."
Edward Pierce, a celebrated painter of history, landscape, and arcliitecture,
who worked xmder Vandyke. He died a few years after the Restoration.
One of his sons, John, was also a painter.
Page 305. " That learned gentieman, my Lord Aungier."
Grendd, eldest son of Sir Francis Aungier, Master of the Rolls in 1609,
and created Baron Aimgier in the Irish Peerage in 1621. He died in 1655,
and was succeeded by his nephew, Francis, afterwards created Earl of
Longford. Evelyn more than once celebrates his learning.
^Ig ADDITIONAL NOTES.
Page 305. " Where Suffolk-street stood." For this note substitute
the following :
Suffolk House, afterwards Northumberland House. At the funeral of Anne
of Denmark, a young man was killed by the fall of the letter S from the
border of capital letters mentioned by Evelyn.
Page 310. " Honest and learned Mr. Hartlib."
Samuel Hartlib is believed to have been bom in Poland. He arrived'in
England about the year 1630, and attained some celebrity in 1641 by the
publication of a work describing some recent attempts to create a general
union of Protestants of all denominations. Cromwell, gratified with his
labours for the advancement of civilisation, presented him with an annual
pension of 100^,, subsequently augmented to 300Z. With this assistance he
founded a school for the education of gentlemen's sons ; and published
several works on agricvdture. But he had thus exhausted his resources ;
and at the Restoration, when his pension was stopped, he fell into great
distress. Many of his contemporaries regai-ded Hartlib with the same
admiration as Evelyn, and Milton addressed to him liis "Tractate on
Education." Subsequent mention will be made of him in the notes to
Evelyn's correspondence.
Page 312. *' Barlow, the famous painter of fowls, beasts, and birds.."
Francis Barlow. He occasionally painted portraits. He died in 1702.
Page 312. « Mr. Roger I'Estrange,"
Afterwards knighted ; and licenser of the press to Charles II., and
James II., in whose Parliament he was returned for Winchester. He was
the author of several works, chiefly translations ; was a fierce and reckless
advocate of high Church principles ; and estabhshed a newspaper called
the Public Intelligencer, which he afterwards changed to London Gazette,
and ultimately to a paper called the Observator. In the latter he so excelled
even himself in the fury of his assaults on the Whigs, that Evelyn, who hated
intemperance in all parties, became obliged to confess, though he thought
L'Estrange " a person of excellent parts, abating some affectations," that his
"pretence to serve the Chm-ch of England" involved a still stronger sus-
picion of " gratifying another party." He possessed courage enough to
oppose the infamous Titus Oates, when that wortliy was terrifying every
one (including the King) that held opposite opinions to himself ; and wheu
James II., whom he had supported in his claim to a dispensing power,
assumed the mask of toleration, L'Estrange quarrelled also with him.
Pepys describes him as a man of fine conversation, most covu^tly, and full
of compliments ; but seeking his society for the pm-pose of obtaining news.
He was known among the courtiers by the sobriquet of " Oliver's fiddler,"
owing to a i*eport, which he strenuously denied, that he had once performed
on the violin in the presence of the Protector. Queen Mai-y entertained
a great antipathy to him, and, by transposing the letters of his name,
gave him the appellation of " Lying Strange Roger." He died in 1 704,
aged eighty-eight.
Page 313. " Mr. Robert Boyle, that excellent person and great virtuoso.^'
Fifth surviving son of Richard Boyle, styled "the great Earl of
Cork," and bom at Lismore, in Ireland, January 25, 1626-7. He was
travelling on the continent, when the death of his father, who had be-
queathed to him the Dorsetshire property and other estates, brought him
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 413
back to England, in 1644, and the remainder of his life was spent in the
study of natural philosophy, wherein he made many important discoveries,
and obt&ined the reputation, both at home and abroad, of being one of tlie
greatest philosophers of his age. He died December 30, 1691. His name
occurs too frequently in the Diary, and in the letters of Evelyn (one of which
contains a most elaborate and finished picture of this " friend of forty
years"), to justify any further allusion to him in this place.
Page 313. " Sir William Paston's son, since Earl of Yarmouth."
Sir Robert Paston, Bart., who obtained great reputation as a Royalist
commander, and for whose services, Charles II., on 15th August, 1673,
created him Baron Paston, and Viscount Yarmouth. And in 1674 he was
made Earl of Yarmouth, and died July 30 of the same year. He was
reputed a good scholar.
Page 314. " The old Marquis of Argyle, since executed."
Archibald, eighth Earl, created Marquis of Argyle, November 15, 1641.
In the subsequent troubles he took his place at the head of the Scotch
Covenanters, and did so much damage to Charles I.'s cause, that the wrong
was not considered to have been expiated by his subsequent proclamation of
Cliarles II. Evelyn, who knew him well, calls him a " turbulent" man ;
and at the Restoration, having been convicted of high treason, he had his
head struck off by the maiden, at the market-cross of Edinburgh, on the
27th of May, 1661.
Pa^e 314. " The Earl of Southampton, since Treasurer."
Thomas Wriothesley, fourth Earl, a distinguished Royalist, who at the
Restoration was created a Knight of the Garter, and appointed Lord Trea-
surer. His second daughter, Rachel, was the wife of the patriot Lord Wil-
liam Russell. He married three times. By his second wife, Frances,
daughter of Francis Earl of Chichester, who died in 1644, he succeeded to
that title; but dying without male issue, May 1 6, 1667, all his honours became
extinct Evelyn enjoyed much of his hospitality, and characterises him as a
person of extraordinary parts, but a valetudinarian.
Page 317. ** Mr. Needham, my dear and learned friend."
Jasper Needham, a physician of great repute, and one of Evelyn's oldest
friends. For apathetic mention of his death, see the Diary, voL ii., p. 135.
Page 317. " Old Sir Henry Vane."
This was " Vane, young in years, but in sage counsel old," the nobleness
and independence of whose character, as well as his claims to the affection of
posterity, are not ill expressed in the two facts recorded by Evelyn — his
imprisonment by Cromwell, and his judicial miu'der by Charles the Second.
Page 31 9. « Mr. Mordaunt."
John, second son of John, fifth Baron Mordaunt, and first Earl of Peter-
borough. He was a zealous Royalist ; an offence for which he was tried,
and, as Evelyn relates in a subsequent page, acquitted by one vote, under
the Commonwealth. Nevertheless, he still exerted himself to bring back
Charles II., who, on the 10th of July, 1659, created him Bai'on Mordaunt of
Reigate, and Viscount Mordaunt of Avalon, and appointed him Constable of
Windsor Castle, and Custos Rotvlorum, of the County of Surrey. Many foul
charges were aiterwards brought against him in connection with his com-
414
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
mand at Windsor. See vol. ii., p. 19. With his mother and his wife, Evelyn
was extremely intimate, frequently mentioning both with enthusiasm ; and
taking an active part, as many passages of the Diary will show, in the business
affairs of the family.
Page 319. " Two of my Lord Dover's daughters."
Henry Carey, fourtli Baron Hunsdon, created Viscount Rochford and
Earl of Dover, and who died in 1668, had three daughters — Mary, married
to Sir Thomas Wharton, Judith, and Philadelphia.
Page 320. « Way-wiser."
Beckmann, in his " History of Inventions," has written an account of
the different instruments applied to carriages to measure the distance
they pass over. He places the first introduction of the adometer in England
at about the end of the sevententh century, instead of about the middle,
and states it to have been the invention of an ingenious artist named
Butterfield.
Page 321. " John Tradescant's museum."
The tomb-stone of the family in Lambeth church-yard declares, that
" Beneath this stone lie John Tradescant, grandsire, father, and son."
They were all eminent gardeners, travellers, and collectors of curiosities.
The first two came into this county in the reign of James I., and the second
and third were employed in the Royal Gardens by Charles I. They had a
house at Lambeth, which, being filled with rarities of every description,
passed by the name of Tradescant's Ark, and was much resorted to by the
lovers of the curious. It formed the foundation of the Ashmolean Museum
at Oxford, and a catalogue of its contents was printed by the youngest John
Tradescant, in 1656, with the title of " Museum Tradescantianum." He
died in 1652. See the Diary, vol. ii., pp. 119—120.
Page 328. « The Earl of Northumberland."
Algernon, tenth Earl. He was a Knight of the Garter ; and though
conspicuously opposed to Charles I. during the Civil Wars, promoted the
Restoration. He was one of our first collectors of pictures, and his gallery
at Suffolk, since Northumberland, House, was greatly admired, not only by
Evelyn, but by all connoisseurs. He died OcL 1 3, 1668.
Page 332. " Mr. Brereton, a very learned gentleman." "
William, afterwards third Lord Brereton ; a nobleman of extensive
acquirements, who assisted Evelyn in establishing the Royal Society. He
died in 1679.
Page 332. « Sir Henry Blount, the famous traveller and water-drinker."
The second son of Sir Thomas Pope Blount, of Tittenhanger, in
Hertfordshire, bom December 15, 1602. After entering hunself a
member of the Society of Gray's Inn, he started in 1634 on a tour
in Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, which lasted four years, and on his return
published the results under the title of " A Voyage to the Levant, wth
Observations concerning the Modem Condition of the Turks," which passed
through many editions. In 1638 he succeeded to the family estate, Blount's
Hall, Staffordshire, and the next year received the honoiu: of knighthood.
On the breaking out of the troubles, Sir Henry Blount became a cavalier
officer, and fought under the royal banner at Edgehill. He afterwards
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 415
changed sides, was employed by Cromwell as a commissioner for reforming
the criminal code, and was engaged in trying the brother of the Portuguese
ambassador for murder. On the death of his brother in 1 654, Sir Henry
succeeded to anotlier estate at Tittenhanger, and became High Sheriff of
Hertfordshire in 1661. On the return of Charles II. he found no difficulty
in making his peace, and entertained his subsequent leisure with the com-
position of comedies and other fugitive productions.
Page 334. " My Lord Viscount Montague."
Francis Brown, third Viscount, a zealous royalist. He died Novem-
ber 2, 1682.
Page 339. « Dr. Bramhall."
John Bramhall, bom in 1593, at Pontefract, in Yorkshire. Studying
for the Church, he obtained his Doctor's degree in 1638, and became chap-
lain to Archbishop Matthews ; then prebendary of York ; and subsequently of
Ripon. He went to Ireland on the invitation of Lord Wentworth, and was
made Bishop of Derry ; but in 1641 his conduct laid him open to charges
of high treason, and he found it necessary to quit the country, till the return
of Charles II., when he was created Archbishop of Armagh. He died
in 1677, in wliich year there was a pubUcation of his works, in one
volume, folio. Evelj-n subsequently refers (see ihe Diary, \o\. ii., p. 252) to
a curious letter of his on the Irish Catholics, which caused the suppression
of the book in which it appeared.
Page 340. " Sir PhiUp Warwick, now Secretary to the Lord Treasurer."
He was bom at Westminster, went to school at Eton, and afterwards pro-
ceeded to Geneva. On his return to England, he attached himself to the
Court, and obtained a seat in Parliament, where he opposed Strafford's
impeachment, and subsequently went to Oxford with the King, who employed
him in 1646 as one of his commissioners to treat with the Parliament,
and afterwards retained him as his secretary at the Isle of Wight. He was
returned for Middlesex at the Restoration, and obtained the office of,
Secretary to the Lord Treasurer, which brought him into frequent com-
munication with Evelyn. His death occiured in 1682. He had found time
to write " A Discourse on Government," and *' Memoirs of King Charles,"
the last containing some curious anecdotes, and the most graphic existing
account of Cromwell's first speech in the House of Commons.
Page 343. « Countess of Guildford."
Elizabeth, daughter of William, first Earl of Denbigh, married to Lewis,
Viscount Boyle, who fell at the Battle of LiscarroU, in 1642. She was
advanced to the Peerage for life, on the 14th July, 1660, as Countess of
Guildford, and died in 1673.
Page 347. « Grenville, Earl of Bath."
Son of the celebrated Royalist general. Sir Bevill Grenville, by whose side
he fought in several battles with great gallantry, though a mere youth. He
was afterwards Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles II., whom he
attended in his exile, and for whom he negotiated with Monk. In consider-
ation of his services he was raised to the peerage by the titles of Baron and
Viscount Grenville and EJarl of Bath. He died in 1 701.
^16 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
Page 347. " Howard, Earl of Carlisle."
Charles, created Bai'on Dacre, Viscount and Earl of Carlisle, held several
important offices. He was Ambassador to the Czar of Muscovy, and was
afterwards sent with the Order of the Garter to Charles XII., King of
Sweden. He was also Governor of Jamaica. He died February 24th, 1684.
Page 347. « Denzill Holies."
He was second son of John, first Earl of Clare, and at the commencement
of his career vigorously opposed in Parliament the arbitrary measures of
Charles I. ; but during the Commonwealth he sought to restore the monarchy,
for which he was created Baron Holies, and was employed as Ambassador
Exti'aordinary to the Court of France, and Plenipotentiary at the Treaty of
Breda. Nevertheless, he afterwards went rovmd to his old opinions, and was
considered a patriot for the rest of his life, which terminated on the 17th
February, 1679-80.
Page 347. " Comwallis."
Sir Frederick Comwallis, Bart, for his faithful services to Charles I. and
Charles II., created Baron Comwallis, of Eye. He died in 1662.
Page 351. « Lord Brouncker."
Sir William, the second Viscount Brounker, was tlie first President of the
Royal Society ; and several mathematical papers written by him are to be
foimd in their transactions. He died April 5th, 1684. He was also Chan-
cellor to Queen Catherine of Braganza, a Commissioner of the Admiralty,
and Master of St. Katherine's Hospital.
Page 352. « Dr. Wallis."
John Wallis, born in 1616, at Ashford, in Kent, of which place his father
was minister. Adopting the same profession, he took his degree of Doctor
of Divinity, became chaplain to a Yorkshire baronet in 1641, and obtained
the living of St. Gabriel, Fenchurch-street, London, in 1643. As we learn
from Evelyn, he was one of the earliest members of the Royal Society, to the
transactions of which he contributed many valuable papers, and wrote several
mathematical and theological works. He was appointed chaplain to Charles
II., and had been employed in decyphering intercepted correspondence, in
which he was considered remarkably clever. He died October, 1703, at
Oxford, where his works had previously been published in three volumes
folio.
Page 352. « Dr. Duport."
James Duport, son of the Master of Jesus' College, Cambridge, where he
was bom in the year 1606. He finished his education at Trinity, and was
appointed Regius Professor of Greek in 1632, but was deprived in 1656 for
refusuig the engagement. He was Prebendary of Lincoln and Archdeacon
of Stow in 1641, and in 1660 chaplain to Charles II., when he was restored
to his Greek Professorship, created Doctor of Divinity, made Dean of
Peterborough, and, in 1668, elected Master of Magdalen College. He was
a good classical scholar.
Page 352. « Dr. Fell."
John Fell, bom June 23rd, 1625, at Longworth, in Berkshire, was son of
the Dean of Christchurch. He was removed from the grammar-school at
Thame, when only eleven years of age, to become a student at Christchurch,
Oxford, his father being at the time Vice-Chancellor of the University. Of
this appomtment the elder Fell was deprived by the Parliament, and his son
ADDITIONAL NOTKS. 417
expelled from his College, for having been in arms for the King. The father
died upon hearing of the execution of Charles, but the son was not over-
looked at the Restoration, receiving a stall at Chichester, and afterwards
a more valuable one at Christchurch. He served the office of Vice-Chancellor
of the University in 166'6, and, in 1676, was made Bishop of Oxford. Bishop
Fell was a voluminous author. He died in 1686.
Page 353. " The New Spring-Garden at Lambeth — a pretty contrived
plantation."
Since so well known under the name of Vauxhall Gardens.
Page 356. " Madame out of France."
Henrietta Maria.
Page 356. " My Lord of Bristol."
George Digby, second Earl, had suffered much for Royalty, but was made
Knight of the Garter, and might have held important employments, had he not,
when abroad, become a Catholic. He died in 16.6. Horace Walpole thus smartly
sums up his character : " He wrote against Popery, and embraced it. He was
a zealous opposer of the Court, and a sacrifice for it : was conscientiously con-
verted in the midst of his prosecution of Lord Strafford, and was most unconsci-
entiously a prosecutor of Lord Clarendon. With great parts, he always hurt
himself and his friends. With romantic bravery, he was always an unsuccessful
commander. He spoke for the Test Act, though a Roman Catholic; and
addicted himself to astrology on the birth-day of true philosophy." {Royal
and Noble Authors, Vol. IL, p. 25.) Grammont mentions him, but in terms
far from respectful ; nor does " my lord of Bristol" appear to more advan-
tage in tlie annals of Bussy, or in the continuation of his hfe by Clarendon.
Page 357. " Dr. Basire, that Great Traveller."
Isaac Basire, bom in the Island of Jersey, in 1607 ; was educated for the
Church ; for some time officiated as Master of the Free School at Guernsey ;
and then as chaplain to Morton, Bishop of Durham, who presented him with
a rectory and a vicarage. Preferments and honours promised to flow rapidly
upon him, when the disturbed state of the country induced him to quit
England, and he travelled in the Morea, to the Holy Land, and to Con-
stantinople. On his retmni, Charles II. appointed Dr Basire his Chaplain
in Ordinary. He died in 1676. His sermons obtained a deserved celebrity.
He wrote also a History of tlie English and Scottish Presbytery.
Page 358. " Dr. Creighton."
Afterwards Bishop of Bath and Wells. His son. Dr. Robert Creighton,
while attending Charles II. in his exile, studied music, in which he became
such a proficient that his anthem, " I will arise and go to my Father,"
and a service in the key of E., still maintain a high reputation with the lovers
of sacred music. He died at Wells in the year 1736.
Page 358. «* Sir William Petty."
One of the celebrities of the seventeenth century, bom at Ramsey, in
Hampshire, in 1 6*23. He was the son of a clothier, who sent him to the gram-
mar school of his native town ; but at the age of fifteen, he was removed to
the University of Caen, in Normandy. On his return to England, he ac-
cepted an appointment in the navy; but with the object only of raising
VOL. I. BE
418 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
enongh money to enable him to travel,and complete his education his own way.
He proceeded to the University of Holland in 1643 ; thence to Paris, study-
ing anatomy and medicine ; and was again in England in 1646. In 1647, he
took out a patent for a copying-machine, which attracted towards the inventor
the notice of many men of science. Then he practised as a physician, and re-
sided at Oxford, where he was appointed assistant professor, and afterwards
Professorof Anatomy, He was a Fellow of Brasenose, created M.D. in 1649,
and admitted into the College of Physicians in the following year. He was,
at about the same period, Professor of Music in Gresham College ; Physician
to the Army in Ireland, and to the Lord Deputy Commissioner for the division
of the lands forfeited by the Rebels ; Secretary to the Lord Deputy ', and
Clerk of the Council. But having been elected for East Loo in the Parliament
of 1658, he was impeached for high crimes and misdemeanours in his Irish
commission a few months afterwards, and this ended in a deprivation of all
his employments. At the Restoration, however, he again appeared upon the
scene as prominently as ever. He was Commissioner of the Court of Claims ;
physician, philosopher, author, and projector ; opened lead mines, established
pilchard fisheries, and assisted in the councils of the Royal Society; invented
the double-bottomed ship to go against wind and tide, mentioned by Evelyn ;
wrote a method for equalising taxation, and acted as president to a philoso-
phical society established in Dubhn. So numerous is the list of things he did,
and the books he wrote, that it is impossible to notice half of them. But the
best and most amusing character of him is to be fotmd in the text. He died
December 16th, 1687.
Page 360. « Cooper."
There were two artists of this name, brothers, Alexander and Samue
Cooper. The fonner painted landscapes and portraits, resided at Amster-
dam, and entered into the service of Queen Christina of Sweden : the other
was a fashionable portrait painter, well known by his characteristic likeness
of Cromwell, and obtained in France and Holland, where he lived for several
years, not less reputation than he had acquired in England. His head is
engraved in Walpole's Anecdotes, where there is a notice of him. He was
bom iu ] 604, and died in 1672.
Page 362. " The yomig Marquis of Argyle."
Archibald, ninth Earl, who, notwithstanding his father's attainder, which
forfeited the marquisate, was permitted to inherit the ancient Earldom of his
family. Evelyn seems at once to have discovered him in this interview to
be " a man of parts," and he greatly deplored his subsequent fate. This has
been too strikingly and beautifully told by Mr. Macaulay in his recent his-
tory (vol. i., pp. 537-565) to require further allusion here. The reader
may be also referred to Lord Lindsay's entertaining Lives of the Lindsays,
vol ii, pp. 146-155. ^
Page 363. « Our New Queen."
Katherine of Braganza.
Page 366. Sir R. Fanshawe.
Sir Richard Fanshawe, equally eminent at this period as a diplomatist
and as a poet. In the former position he acted as ambassador to the courts
of Spain and Portugal ; in the latter translated the Pastor Fido of Guarini,
and the Lusiad of Camoens. Born 1608 ; died 1666. His wife was Airne,
eldest daughter of Sir John Harrison, of BaUs, Hertforddiire.
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 419
Parje 369. «Dr. Meret."
Christopher Merret, a celebrated physician and naturalist, and fellow of
the Royal Society.
Page 370. « Earl of Oxford."
Aubrey de Vere, twentieth and last Earl. He had served as a miUtary
officer, both at home and abroad ; and his services were rewarded at the Re-
storation by a seat at the Privy Council, the dignity of Knight of the Garter,
and the appointment of Lord- Lieutenant of Essex. He died in 1702, leaving
an only daughter, married to the Duke of St. Alban's.
Page 378. « Mr. Hooke."
Robert Hooke, bom in 1 635. He pursued his studies in the abstract sciences
with singular success, obtaining a great reputation among his most learned
contemporaries. He was Professor of Geometry in Gresham College, wrote
several treatises on different branches of philosophy, and entered into con-
troversies with Hevelius, and on Newton's Theology of Light and Colours.
Created M.D. in 1691, and died in March, 1702-3.
Page 381, line 12. « Mr. Berkenshaw."
The music master of Pepys, who states tliat he gave him five pounds
for five weeks' instruction.
X K 2
APPENDIX.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
I.
(Seepages 8,9.)
The following Letter from George Evelyn, Esq., elder brother of Mr. J. E.
when at College, to his father Richard at Wotton, 26 Sept., 1636, giving
an account of the Visit made by the King and Queen to the University
of Oxford, with some particulars respecting himself, contains some
curious matter.
" I know you have long desired to hear of my welfare, and the total series
of his Majesty's entertainment whilst he was fixed in the centre of our
Academy.
" The Archbishop our Lord Chancellor [Laud] and many Bishops, Doctor
Bayley our Vice-Chancellor, with the rest of the Doctors of the University,
together with the Mayor of the City, and his brethren, rode out in state to
meet his Majesty, the Bishops in their pontifical robes, the Doctors in their
scarlet gowns and their black caps (being the habit of the University), the
Mayor and Aldermen in their scarlet gowns, and sixty other townsmen all
in black satin doublets and in old fashion jackets. At the appropinquation
of the King, after the beadles' staves were delivered up to his Majesty in token
that they yielded up all their authority to him, the Vice-Chancellor spoke a
speech to the King, and presented him with a Bible in the University's
behalf, the Queen with Camden's Britannia in English, and the Prince Elect
(as I took it) with Croke's Politics ; all of them with gloves (because Oxford
is famous for gloves.*) A little nigher the City where the City bounds are
terminated, the Mayor presented his Majesty with a large gilt cup, et tenet
vicinitatem opinio, the Recorder of the City made a speech to his Majesty.
In the entrance of the University, at St. John's College, he was detained
with another speech made by a Fellow of the house. The speech being
ended, he went to Christ-church, scholars standing on both sides of the
street, according to tlieir degrees, and in their formalities, clamantes, Vivat
Jlex noster Carolusf Being entered Christ-church, be had another speech
* Gloves always made part of a present from Corporate Bodies at that time,
more or less ornamented with rich fringes according to the quality of the persons to
whom they were offered.
APPENDIX. 421
made by the University orator, and student of the same house : the subject
of all which speeches being this, expressing their joy and his welcome to the
University. Then, retiring himself a little, he went to prayers ; they being
ended, soon after to supper, and then to the play, whose subject was the
Calming of the Passions ; but it was generally misliked of the Court, because
it was so grave ; but especially because they undei'stood it not. Tliis was the
first day's entertainment.
" The next morning, he had a sermon in Christ-church, preached by
Browne, the Proctor of the University, and a student of the house. The
sermon being ended, the Prince Elect and Prince Rupert went to St. Mary's,
where there was a congregation, and Prince Rupert created Master of Arts,
also many nobles with liim. The reason why the Prince Elect was not created
Master of Arts, was because Cambridge our sister had created him before.
The congregation done, the King, Queen, and all the nobles went to the
Schools (the glory of Christendom) where in the public Library, his Majesty
heard another speech, spoken by my Lord Chamberlain's third son, and of
Exeter College, which speech the King liked well. From the schools the
King went to St. John's to dinner, where the Archbishop entertained his
Majesty with a magnificent dinner and costly banquet [dessert]. Then with
a play made by the same house. The play being ended, he went to Christ-
church ; and, after supper, to another play, called the Royal Slave,* all
the actors performing in a Persian habit, which play much delighted his
Majesty and all the nobles, commending it for the best that ever was acted.
" The next morning, he departed from the University, all the Doctors
kissing his hand, his Majesty expressing his kingly love to the University,
and his countenance demonstrating unto us, that he was well pleased with
this his entertainment made by us scholars.
" After the King's departure, there was a Congregation called, where many
Doctors, some Masters of Art, and a few Bachelors were created, they
procuring it by making friends to the Palsgrave. There were very few that
went out that are now resident, most of them were Lords and gentlemen.
A Doctor of Divinity and Bachelor of Arts were created of our housa
[Trinity], but they made special friends to get it.
" With the £30 you sent me I have furnished me with those necessaries I
wanted, and have made me two suits, one of them being a black satin doublet
and black cloth breeches, the other a white satin doublet and scarlet hose ;
the scarlet hose I shall wear but httle here, but it will be comely for me to
wear in the country.
" Your desire was that I should be as frugal in my expenses as I could, and
I assure you, honoured Sir, I have been ; I have spent none of it in riot or
toys. You hoped it would be sufficient to furnish me and discharge my
battels for this quarter ; but I fear it will not, therefore I humbly entreat
you to send me £6. I know what I have already, and witli this I send for,
will be more than enough to discharge these months ; but I know not what
occasion may fall out.
« Trin. CoU. Oxon, 26 July, 1636."
* By William Cartwright, a student of that College. In this play one of his
fellow-students (afterwards the famous Dr. Busby) performed a part (that of Cra-
tander) so excellently well, and with so much applause, that it is said he had almost
determined to commence actor on the public stage.
422 APPENDIX.
II.
(See Page 334.)
In the Edition of Sir Richard Baker's Clironicle, published with additions
by Edward Philips (Milton's nephew), there is an account of the transactions
between Mr. Evelyn and Colonel Morley, relative to the latter's being urged
by Mr. Evelyn, after Cromwell's death, to declare for the King. In a subse-
quent edition, in 1730, this account is considerably altered. Amongst Mr.
Evelyn's papers at Wotton, there is the original account drawn up by Sir
Thomas Clarges, and sent to Mr. Philips ; it is in Sir Thomas's own hand-
writing, was evidently sent to Mr. Evelyn for his perusal, and is thus indorsed
by him :
" Sir Thomas Qarges's (brother-in-law to the Duke of Albemarle) insertion
of what concerned Mr. Evelyn and Colonel Morley in continuation of the
History written by Mr. Philips, and added to Sir Rich. Baker's Chronicle.
Note that my letter to Colonel Morley was not rightly copied ; there was
likewise too much said concerning me, which is better, and as it ought to be
in the second impression, 1664."
Mr. Philips's account is as follows :
" In the seven hundred and nineteenth page of this History we omitted to
insert a very material negociation for the King's service, attempted upon the
interruption given to the Parliament by Colonel Lambert and those that
joined with him therein, which was managed by Mr. Evelin, of Says Court,
by Deptford, in Kent, an active, vigilant, and very industrious agent on all
occasions for his Majesty's Restoration ; who, supposing the members of
this suppositious Parliament could not but ill resent that affront, thought to
make advantage of fixing the impression of it to tlie ruin of the Army, for
the effecting whereof he applied himself to Colonel Herbert Morley, then
newly constituted one of the five Commissioners for the command of the
Army, as a person by his birth, education, and interest, unlikely to be cor-
dially inclined to prostitute himself to the ruin of his country and the infamy
of his posterity.
" Mr. Evelin gave him some visits to tempt his affection by degrees to a
confidence in him, and then by consequence to engage him in his designs ;
and to induce him the more powerfully thereunto, he put into his hands an
excellent and unanswerable liardy treatise by him written, called * An
Apology for the Royal Party,' which he backed with so good arguments and
a very dextrous address in the prosecution of them, that the Colonel was
wholly convinced, and recommended to hira the procurement of the King's
pardon for him, his brother-in-law, Mr. Fagg, and one or two more of his
relations. This Mr. Evelin faithfully promised to endeavour, and taking the
opportunity of Sir Samuel Tuke's going at that time into France, he by him
acquainted the King (being then at Pontoise) with the relation of this
affair, wherewith he was so well pleased as to declare if Colonel Morley, and
those for whom he interceded, were not of those execrable judges of his
blessed Royal father, they should have his pardon, and he receive such other
reward as his services should deserve. Upon the sending this advice to the
King, tlie Colonel left London, because of the jealousy which Fleetwood and
Lambert had of hira ; but, before he went, he desired Mr. Evelin to cor-
respond with him in Sussex, by means of Mr. Fagg, his brother-in-law, who
then lay in the Mews.
" Mr. Evelin had good reason to believe Colonel Morley very capable of
serving the King at this time ; for he had a much better interest in Sussex
than any of his party ; whereby he might have faciUtated his Majesty's
APPENDIX. 423
reception in that county, in case his affairs had required his landing there ;
but, besides his power in Sussex, he had (as he said) an influence on two of
the best regiments of the Army, and good credit with many of the Officers of
the Fleet.
" But, before the return from France of the King's resolution in this
matter, there intervened many little changes in the posture of affairs.
" Upon the advance of General Monk in favour of the Parliament, and the
general inclination of the Army to him, Colonel Morley expected the restitu-
tion of that power, and with it of his own authority, and was leagued with
Walton and Hazlerig in a private treaty with Colonel Whetham, the Governor
of Portsmouth, for the delivery of tliat garrison to them ; and Fagg went
privately fi-om London to raise a regiment in Sussex, to promote these
designs ; but was suppressed before he got any considerable number of men
together.
" Mr. Evelin, not knowing of these intrigues, in vain endeavoured by all
imaginable ways to communicate the King's pleasure to Morley, who was by
this time in the garrison of Portsmouth.
" But. when the Parliament resumed their power, and he [Morley] was
placed in the government of the Tower, he [Evelin] thought it expedient to
renew the former negociation betwixt them for his Majesty's service, and in
order thereunto, he often by visits made application to him, but could never
but once procure access ; and then he dismissed him with a faint answer,
* That he woxild shortly wait upon him at his lodging.'
" This put Mr. Eveliu into so much passion that he resolved to surmount
the difficiilty of access by writing freely to him, which he did in this
manner :
*t0 colonel morley, lieutenant of the toweb.*
'Sir,
' For many obligations, but especially for the last testimonies of
your confidence in my friendship, begun so long since, and considered so
When I trans- in^'io'^hly through so many changes, and in so universal a
acted with him decadence of honour, and all that is sacred amongst men,
for delivery of I he I come with this profound acknowledgment of the favours
Tower of London, y^^ h&ve done me ; and had a great desire to have made
for the King, a ^^'^ a personal recognition and to congi-atulate your return,
little before Ge- and the dignities which your merits have acquired, and for
neral Monk's, and which none does more sincerely rejoice ; could I promise
done, he had ret Myself the happiness of finding you in your station at any
ceived the honour season wherein the Public, and more weighty concernments
that great man did afford you the leisure of receiving a visit &om a person
tS^Z'L^:'^^;. 80 inconsiderable as myself ^ ^^ ^ ^ ^
' But, smce I may not hope for that good fortune, and
such an opportunity of conveying my respects and the great affections which
I owe you, I did presume to transmit this express ; and by it, to present you
with the worthiest indications of my zeal to continue in the possession of
your good graces, by assuring you of my great desires to serve you in what-
soever may best conduce to your honour, and to a stability of it, beyond all
that any luture contingencies of things can promise : because I am confident
that you have a nobler prospect upon the success of yom* designs than to
pi-ostitute your virtues and your conduct to serve the passions, or avarice, of
any particular persons whatsoever; being (as you are) free and incontaminate,
well-born, and abhorring to dishonour or enrich yourself with the spoils
which by others have been ravished from our miserable, yet dearest country;
and which renders them so zealous to pursue the ruin of it, by labouring to
* The letter following is taken from Mr. Evelyn's own copy.
424 APPENDIX.
involve men of the best natures and reputation into their own inextricable
labyinnths, and to gratify that which will pay them with so much infamy in
the event of things, and with so inevitable a perdition of their precious souls,
when all these uncertainties (how specious soever at present) shall vanish
and come to nothing.
* There is now, Sir, an opportunity put into your hands, by improving
whereof you may securely act for the good of your country, and the redemp-
tion of it fx'om the insupportable tyrannies, injustice, and impieties under
which it has now groaned for so many years, through the treachery of many
wicked, and the mistakes of some few good men. For by this, Sir, you shall
best do honour to God, and merit of your country ; by this you shall secure
yourself, and make your name great to succeeding ages : by this you shall
crown yourself with real and lasting dignities. In sum, by this, you shall
obUge even those whom you may mistake to be your greatest enemies, to
embrace and cherish you as a person becoming the honour of a brave and
worthy patriot, and to be rewarded with the noblest expression of it ; when,
by the best interpretations of your charity and obedience to the dictates of a
Christian, you shall thus heap coals of fire upon their head ; and which will
at once give both light and warmth to this afflicted Nation, Church, and
People, not to be extinguished by any more of those impostors whom God
has so signally blown off the stage, to place such in their stead, as have
opportunities given them of restoring us to our ancient known laws, native
and most happy liberties. — It is this. Sir, which I am obliged to wish to
encourage you in, and to pronounce as the worthiest testimony of my congra-
tulations for your return ; and which, you may assure yourself, has the
suffrages of the solidest and best ingredient of this whole nation.
' And having said thus much, I am sure you will not look upon this letter
as a servile address ; but, if you still retain that favour and goodness for the
person who presents it, that I have reason to promise myself, from the
integrity which I have hitherto observed in all your professions ; I conjure
you to believe, that you have made a perfect acquisition of my service ; and,
that (however events succeed) I am still the same person, greedy of an
opportunity to recommend the sincerity of my affection, by doing you what-
soever service lies in my power ; and I hope you shall not find me without
some capacities of expressing it in effects, as well as in the words of
^ _, * Plonourable Sir, &c.
'CovENT Garden,
UthJan. 1659-60.'
** In a note he adds : ' Morley was at this time Lieutenant of the Tower of
London, was absolute master of the City, there being very few of the rebel
army anywhere near it, save at Somerset- House a trifling garrison which was
marching out to re-enforce Lambert, who was marching upon the news of
Monk's coming out of Scotland. He was Lieutenant of all the confederate
counties of Sussex, Surrey, Hampshire, &c. ; his brother-in-law Governor of
Portsmouth and Hampshire ; his own brother William Morley Governor of
Arundel Castle ; in sum, he had all the advantages he could have desired to
have raised the well-affected of the City and Country universally breaihing
after a deliverer (uncertain as to what Monk intended), and so had absolutely
prevented any [other] person or power whatever (in all appearance) from
having the honour of bringing in the King, before those who were in motion
could have snatched it out of his hand. Of all this I made him so sensible,
when I was with him at the Tower, that nothing but his fatal diffidence of
Monk's having no design to bring in his Majesty because he had [not] dis-
covered it whilst matters were yet in the dark (but the design certainly
resolved on) kept him wavering and so irresolute (though he saw the game
APPENDIX, 425
sufficiently in his hands) as to sit still and put it off, till Lambert and his
forces being scattered and taken, Monk marched into the City triumphant
with his wearied army, possessed the gates, and with no great cunning and
little difficulty, finding how the people and magistrates were disposed (what-
ever his general intentions were, or at first seemed to be), — boldly and
fortvmately bx-ought to pass that noble Revolution, following it to his eternal
honour by restoring a banished Prince and the people's freedom. This poor
Morley saw, and implored my interest by what means he might secure
himself and obtain his pardon. This is, in short, a true account of that
remarkable affair.' "
Mr. Philips goes on thus from Sir Thomas Clarges's paper :
" We shall not here determine what it was that induced Colonel Morley
(at the time of his being Lieutenant of the Tower) to decline commerce with
Mr. Evelyn for the King's service ; whether it was that he doubted of the
concurrence of his officers and soldiers, who had been long trained up in an
aversion to monarchy, or whether, by the entire subjection of the Army to
Monk, and their unity thereupon, he thought that work now too difficult,
which was more feasible in the time of their division. But it is most certain
that he took such impressions from Mr. Evelyn's discourses and this letter,
that ever after he appeared very moderate in his counsels, and was one of
the forwardest to embrace all opportunities for the good of his country ; as
was evident by his vigorous and hazardous opposition in Parliament to that
impious oath of abjuration to the King's family and line (hereafter men-
tioned), before it was safe for General Monk to discover how he was inclined ;
and by his willing conjunction and confederacy after with the Genei'al for the
admission of the secluded members, in proclamation for a free Parliament
for the King's restoration." *
* In 1815 Baron Maseres republished some Tracts relating to the Civil War
in England in the time of King Charles I., amongst which is " The Mystery and
Method of his Majesty's happy Restoration, by the Rev. Dr. John Price, one of the
late Duke of Albemarle's chaplains, who was privy to all the secret passages and
particularities of that Glorious Revolution." Printed in 1680. In this tract it is
stated that Monk's officers being dissatisfied with the conduct of the Rump Parlia-
ment, pressed him to come to some decision, whereupon, on 11 Feb. 1660, they
sent the letter to the Parliament, desiring them first to fill up the vacancies, and
then to determine their own sitting, and call a new Parliament. Dr. Price then
says, " The General yielded at length to their fears and counsels, and the rather,
for that he was assured of the Tower of London, the Lieutenant of it (Col. Morley)
having before offered it to him. This the noble Colonel had done in the City,
pitying the consternation of the citizens, when he saw what work was doing,
[Monk's pulling down the City-gates a few days before by order of the Rump Par-
liament] and what influence it would have on the country." He adds, " that
though the Rump did not dare to take away the General's commission as one of
their Commissioners for governing the Army, they struck out his name from the
quorum of them, which virtually did take away his authority, and he and Morley
were left to stem the tide against Hazlerigg, Alured, and Walton."
These are the only mentions which he makes of Morley, by which it seems that
the first communication between him and Monk was when the latter had broken
down the City-gates, on the 9th February.
Had there been any previous concert between Monk and Morley, the latter
would not have wanted Mr. Evelyn's assistance to obtain his pardon, which how-
ever he did want, and obtained through Mr. Evelyn. See p. 336 of the present
volume.
426 APPENDIX.
III.
(See Page 356.)
Na/rratwe of the Encounter hetween iJke French and Spanish Ajniassadors, at
the landing oftlie Swedish Ambassador, September 30, 1661.*
*' There had been many troubles and disputes between the Ambassadors of
France and Spain for precedence in the Courts of foreign Princes, and
amongst these there was none more remarkable than that on Tower-hill, on
the lauding of an Ambassador for Sweden, 30th September, 1 660, which was
so premeditated a business on both sides, that the King, foreseeing it would
come to a quarrel, and being willing to carry himself with indifference
towards both, which could not be otherwise done than by leaving them at
liberty to take what methods they thought proper for supporting their
respective pretences ; but to show at the same time his concern for the
public tranquillity, orders were given for a strict guard to be kept upon the
place, and all his Majesty's subjects were enjoined not to intermeddle, or
take part with either side. The King was further pleased to command tliat
Mr. Evelyn should, after diligent inquiry made, draw up and present him a
distinct narrative of the whole affair." i*
This was done accordingly, and printed, but not being now to be met with,
except in the additions to the Blographia Britarmica, begun by the late
Dr. Kippis, and this being a work which has not been completed, and is in
few hands, it may not be amiss to print it from Mr. Evelyn's own copy.
A FAITHFUL AND IMPARTIAL NARRATIVE OF WHAT PASSED AT THE LANDING
OF THE SWEDISH AMBASSADOR.
Upon Monday last, being the 30th of September, 1661, about ten in the
morning, the Spanish Ambassador's coach, in which were his Chaplain with
some of his gentlemen, attended by about forty more of his own servants in
liveries, was sent down to the Tower wharf, and there placed itself near about
the point where the ranks of ordnance determine, towards the gate leading
into the bulwark. Next after him came the Dutch, and (twelve o'clock past)
the Swedish coach of honour, disposing of themselves according to their
places. About two hours after this (in company with his Majesty's coach
royal) appeared that of the French Ambassador, wherein were Le Marquis
d'Estrade, son to the French Ambassador, with several more of his
gentlemen, and as near as might be computed, near 150 in train, whereof
above forty were horsemen well appointed with pistols, and some of them
with carabines, musquetoons, or fuzees ; in this posture and equipage stood
they expecting upon the wharf, and, aa near as might be, approaching to his
Majesty's coach, which was opposite to the stairs. About three in the after-
noon, the bwedish Ambassador being landed and received into his Majesty's
coach, which moved leisurely before the rest, and was followed by that of the
Swede's, the French Ambassador's coach endeavoured to go the next,
driving as close as possibly they could, and advancing their party with their
swords drawn, to force the Spaniards from the guard of their own coach,
which was also putting in for precedence next the King's. His Majesty's
coach now passed the Spaniards, who held as yet their rapiers undrawn in
their hands, stepping nimbly on either side of the hindmost wheels of their
Minister's coach, drew their weapons and shouted, which caused the French
coach-horses to make a pause ; but, when they observed the advantage which
See page 356. + Continuation of Heath's Chronicle.
APPENDIX. 427
by this the Spanish Ambasaador's coach had gained, being now in file after
the Swede's, they came up very near to the Spaniards, and at once pouring in
their shot upon them, together with their foot, then got before their coach,
fell to it with their swords, both which the Spaniards received without
removing one jot from their stations.
During this demesle (in which the French received some repulse, and were
put to a second stand) a bold and dexterous fellow, and, as most affirm, with
a particular instrument as well as address, stooping under the bellies of the
French Ambassador's coach-horses, cut the ham-strings of two of them, and
wounded a third, which immediately falling, the coach for the present was
disabled from advancing farther, the coachman forced out of his box, and
the postillion mortally wounded, who, falling into the arms of an English
gentleman that stepped in to his succour, was by a Spaniard pierced through
his thigh. This disorder (wherein several were wounded and some slain)
caused those in the French coach to alight, and so enraged their party, that
it occasioned a second brisk assault both of horse and foot, which being
received with extraordinary gallantry, many of their horses retreated, and
wheeled off towards St. Katharine's.
It was in this skirmish that some brickbats were thrown from the edge of
the wharf, which by a mistake are said to have been provided by the Spanish
Ambassador's order the day before.
In this interim, then (which was near half an hour) the Spanish coach went
forward after his Majesty's with about twenty of his retinue following, who
still kept their countenance towards the French as long as they abode on the
wharf, and that narrow part of the bulwark (where the contest was very
fierce) without disorder ; so as the first which appeared on Tower-hill, where
now they were entering, was his Majesty's coach followed by the Swede's
Ambassador's, and next by that of Spain, with about twenty-four or thirty
of his liveries still disputing it with a less number of French, who came after
them in the rear.
And here, besides what were slain with bullets on tlie wharf and near the
bulwark whereof one was a valet de chavnhre of the Spanish Ambassador's,
and six more, amongst which were a poor English plasterer, and near forty
wounded, fell one of the French, who was killed just before his Highness's
hfe-guard. No one person of the numerous spectators intermeddling,
or so much as making the least noise or tumult, people or soldiers, whereof
there were three companies of foot, which stood on the hill opposite to the
Guards of Horse, 'twixt whom the antagonists lightly skirmished, some fresh
parties of French coming out of several places and protected by the English,
amongst whom they foirad shelter till the Spanish Ambassador's coach hav-
ing gained and passed the chain which leads in Crutched Friars, they desisted
and gave them over.
Near half an hour after this, came the French coach (left all this while in
disorder on the wharf), with two horses and a coachman, who had a cara-
bine by his side, and, as the officers think, only a footman in the coach, and a
loose horse running by. Next to him, went the Holland Ambassador's coach,
then the Swede's second coach. The.se being all advanced upon the hill, the
Duke of Albemarle's coach, with the rest of the English, were stopped by
interposition of his Royal Highness's Life-guard, which had express order to
march immediately after the last Ambassador's coach ; and so they went on,
without any farther interruption.
This is the most accurate relation of what passed, as to matter of fact,
from honourable, most ingenuous, and disinterested eye-witnesses ; as by his
Majesty's command it was taken, and is here set down.
But there is yet something behind which was necessary to be inserted into
this Narrative, in reference to the preamble ; and, as it tends to the utter
428 APPENDIX.
dissolving of those oblique suspicions, which have any aspect on his Majesty's
subjects, whether spectators, or others : and therefore it is to be taken notice,
that, at the arrival of the Venetian Ambassador, some montlis since, the
Ambassadors of France and Spain, intending to send both their coaches to
introduce him, the Ambassador of Spain having before agreed with the
Count de Soissons that they should assist at no public ceremonies, but, upon
all such casual encounters, pass on their way as they fortuned to meet ; it
had been wished that this expedient might still have taken place. But
Monsieur de Strade having, it seems, received positive commands from his
master, that notwithstanding any such accord, he should nothing abate of his
pretence, or the usual respect showed upon all such occasions, he insisted on
putting this injunction of the king his master in execution, at arrival of the
Swedish Ambassador. His Majesty, notwithstanding all the just pretences
which he might have taken, reflecting on the disorders that might possibly
arise in this city, in which for several nights he had been forced to place
extraordinary guards ; and, because he would not seem to take upon him the
decision of this punctilio, in prejudice of either Ambassador, as his charitable
interposition might be interpreted ; his Majesty declaring himself withal no
umpire in this unpleasing and invidious controversy, permitted that, both
their coaches going, they might put their servants and dependents into such
a posture as they should think fittest, and most becoming their respective
pretences : but in the meantime commanded (upon pain of his highest dis-
pleasure), that none of his Majesty's subjects, of what degree soever, should
presume to interpose in their differences. But, in truth, the care of his offi-
cers, and especially that of Sir Charles Barclay, captain of his Royal High-
ness's life-guard (which attended this service), was so eminent and particular,
that they permitted not a man of the spectators so much as with a switch in
his hand, whom they did not chastise severely.
As to that which some have refined upon, concerning the shower of bricks
which fell in this contest (whether industriously placed there or no, for some
others of the Spanish party assigned to that post), 'tis affirmed by the con-
current suffrage of all the spectators, that none of them were cast by any of
his Majesty's subjects, till, being incensed by the woujids which tliey received
from the shot which came in amongst them (and whereof some of them 'tis
said, are since dead), and not divining to what farther excess this new and
unexpected compliment might rise, a few of the rabble, and such as stood on
that side of the wharf, were forced to defend themselves with what tliey found
at hand ; and to which, 'tis reported, some of them were animated by a fresh
remembrance of the treatment they received at Chelsea, and not long since
in Covent-garden, which might very well qualify this article from having any-
thing of design that may reflect on their superiors ; nor were it reasonable
that they should stand chai'ged for the rudeness of such sort of people, as in
all countries upon like occasions, and in such a confusion is inevitable.
Those who observed the armed multitudes of French which rushed in near
the chain on Tower-hill, issuing out of sevejral houses there, and coming in
such a tumultuous and indecent manner amongst the peaceable spectators,
would have seen that, but for the temper of the officers, and presence of the
Guards, into how great an inconveniency tliey had engaged themselves. Nor
have they at all to accuse any for the ill success which attended, if the French
would a little reflect upon the several advantages which their antagonists had
consulted, to equal that by sti'atagem which they themselves had gained by
niunbers, and might still have preserved, with the least of circumspection.
It was evidently the conduct of the Spaniards, not their arms, which was
decisive here ; nor had his Majesty, or his people, the least part in it, but
what the French have infinite obligations to ; since, without this extraordi-
nary indulgence and care to protect tliem, tliey had, in all probability, drawn
APPENDIX. 429
a worse inconveniency upon them, by appearing with so little respect to the
forms which are used upon all such occasions.
There need, then, no other arguments to silence the mistakes which fly
about, that his Majesty's subjects should have had so much as the least
temptation to mingle in this contest, not only because they knew better what is
their duty, for reverence to his Majesty's commands (which were now most
express) . and whose Guards were ready to interpose where any such inclina-
tion had in the least appeared, so as to do right to the good people spectators
(whose curiosity on all such occasions compose no small part of these solem-
nities), that report which would signify their misbehaviour is an egregious
mistake, and worthy to be reproved. Nor becomes it the French (of all the
nations under Heaven) to suspect his Majesty of partiality in this affair,
whose extraordinary civility to them, ever since his happy restoration, has
appeared so signal, and is yet the greatest ingredient to this declaration,
because, by the disquisition of these impartial truths, he endeavours still to
preserve it most inviolable.
Written by Mr. Evelyn imdemeath.
This, Sir, is what I was able to collect of that contest, by his Majesty's spe-
cial command, from the Right Honourable Sir W. Compton, Master of the
Ordnance of the Tower, and of his major present, of Sir Charles Barclay, and
several others, all there present, and from divers of the inhabitants and other
spectators, whom I examined from house to house, from the spot where the
dispute began, to Crutched Friars, where it ended. The rest of the reflections
were special hints from his Majesty's own mouth, the first time I read it to
him, which was the second day after the contest.
Indorsed by Mr. Evelyn. — The Contest 'twixt the French and Spanish
Ambassadors on Tower-hill for Precedency. — Note, That copies of this were
dispatched to the Lord Ambassador in France, who was my Lord of St.
Alban's. Also, another was written to be laid up and kept in the Paper
Office, at Whitehall.
END OF VOL. I.
loicpon I
■ BADIUBT AUB ITINI, rcillTIII, WIITBrBIABI.
ERRATA.
VoL I., p. 310, second note, /or « Off Alley," read "Of Alley.'
„ p. 328, second note, dde " fine.''
„ p. 363, Becond note, /or « 1668," rtxid " 1688.»'
Vol. II., p. 129,/or « Gray," read " Grey."
New and Eevised Edition, vrith Numerous Passages now restored from th
Oriffinal Manuscript, and many additional, Notes.
Now complete, in Five vols, poet 8vo. with Portraits, &c., price 10s. 6d. each, bound,
DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE
Of
SAMUEL PEPYS, F.R.S.,
SKCBKTAST to' THE AI>MI&AI.TT I» TBE B£IGNS OF CHA&LBS II. AKD JAMES II.
EDITED BY
EICHAED LORD BRAYBEOOKE.
The authority of Pepys, as an historian and illustrator of a considerable
portion of the seventeenth century, has been so fully acknowledged by
every scholar and critic, that it is now scarcely necessary even to remind
the reader of the advantages he possessed for producing the most com-
plete and trustworthy record of events, and the most agreeable picture
of society and manners, to be found in the literature of any nation. In
confidential communication with the reigning sovereigns, holding high
official employment, placed at the head of the Scientific and Learned of
a period remarkable for intellectual impulse, mingling in every circle,
and observing everything and everybody whose characteristics were
worth noting down ; and possessing, moreover, an intelligence peculiarly
fitted for seizing the most graphic points in whatever he attempted to
delineate, Pepys may be considered the most valuable as well as the
most entertaining of our National Historians.
A New Edition of this work, comprising the restored passages so
much desired, with such additional annotations as have been called for
by the vast advances in antiquarian and historical knowledge during the
last twenty years, will doubtless be regarded as one of the most im-
portant, as well as most agreeable, additions that could be made to the
library of the general reader.
" Pepys' Diwy makes tis comprebend the great historical events of the age, and the
people who bore a part in them, and gives ns more clear glimpses into the true English
life of the times than all the other memorials of them that have come down to onr own."
Edinburgh Review.
' " Pepys' Diary now appears in its integral state. This, the third edition of the best book
of its kind in the Eng'ish language, is therefore the only true edition of the book. The new
matter is extremely curii us, and occasionally far more characteristic and entertaining than
the old. The writer is seen in a clearer light, and the reader is talien into his inmost souL
Pepys' Diary is the ablest picture of the age in which the writer lived, and a work of
standard importance in English litetatuie." Alhentgum,
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISUEU, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH 8TREBT.
INTERESTING NEW WORKS.
JUST PUBLISHED BY MB. COLBURN,
I.
SIE E. BTILWER LYTTON'S KING AETHUE.
Second and Cheaper Edition Revised. 1 vol. 10s. 6d. bound.
For an elaborate critical analysis of this remarkable work, see the Edinburgh Review for
•Tuly, in which it is characterised as " not only worthy, but likely to take its place among
those fine though not faultless performances which will hereafter represent the poeticiU
literature of England in the first half of the nineteenth century. The author is, we think,
right in believing this to be the least perishable monument of his genius. It is the most
vigorous and original poem that has lately appeared among us."
ME. DISEAELI'S CONINGSBY.
CHEAP STANDARD EDITION.
With a New Preface. 1 vol. with Portrait, 6s. bound.
" We are glad to see that the finest work of Disraeli has been sent out in the same shape
as those of Dickens, Bulwer, and others of our best novelists, at such a price as to place
them within the reach of the most moderate means." Weekly Chronicle.
LADY KAYE'S BEITISH HOMES AND FOEEIGN
WANDEEINGS.
Two vols., 21«.
*' Unrivalled as these volumes are, considered as aristocratic sketches, they are not less
interesting on account of the romantic history with which they are interwoven."
John Bull.
ADYENTUEES OF A GEEEK LADY,
THE adopted daughter OF THK LATE QUEEN CAROLINE.
Written by Herself. 2 vols., 21s.
" The chief interest of this more than ordinarily interesting book lies in the notices it
furnishes of the unfortunate Queen Caroline. From the close of 1814 till Her Koyal
Highness's return to England, the author was never absent from her for a single day. All
is ingenuously and artlessly told, and the plam truth finds its way at once to the reader's
Judgment and feelings. " Court Journal.
CAPTAIN MARRYAT'S NEW NOVEL,
VALERIE.
Two vols.
" A very life-like and interesting stoty. Captain Marryat's fame will lose none of it*
brightness by the publication of this charming autobiography." Weekly Chronicle.
13, Great Marlborough Street.
MR. COLBURFS
LIST OF NEW WORKS.
BURKE'S
HISTORY OF THE LAMED GENTRY;
^ CSenealogtcal i9icttonar|)
OP THE UNTITLED ARISTOCRACY OF ENGLAND,
SCOTLAND, AND IRELAND :
A COMPANION TO ALL THE PEERAGES.
2 volumes, royal 8vo., beautifully printed in double columns, 21. 10s. bound.
" A work in wbich every gentleman will find a domestic interest, as it contains the
fullest account of every known family in the United Kingdom. It is a dictionary of all
names, families, and their origins, — of every man's neighbour and friend, if not of his own
relatives and immediate connexions. It cannot fail to be of the greatest utility to profes-
sional men in their researches respecting the members of different fomilies, heirs to
property, &c. Indeed, it will become as necessary as a Directory in every la^\'yer's office." —
BeWs Messenger.
"A work of this kind is of a national value. Its utility is not merely temporary, but it
will exist and be aclcnowledged as long as the families whose names and genealogies are
recorded in it contiime to form an integral portion of the English constitution. As a
correct record of descent, no family should be without it." — Morning Post.
THE SUPPLEMENT AND INDEX
TO
BURKE'S HISTORY OF THE LANDED GENTRY;
Completing this Important National Work.
One vol., royal 8vo. (uniform with the first two volumes), 25s. boimd.
The Supplement comprises the Histoiy and Gencalogj' of 500 additional Families, with
new particulars respecting the Families contained in the first two volumes, Corrigenda, &c.
The Index comprises references to all the 7iames o/ individuals (upwards of 100,000)
mentioned in the work.
N.B. — The Index may be had separately, price 10s. 6d.
" The vast number of new names introduced into this volume greatlv increases the value
and interest of thLs laborious work. The care and accuracv observable in the history and
genealogy of these families fully sustain tlie reputiition of tlie krger publication to which
this volume fonns an indispensable supplement. Completed by the publication of a general
index, it forms the most comprehensive work of reference of its class that has ever been
accomplished in this conntni-." — Atlas.
whiting] [BK<vvronT norsE.
MR. COLBUEN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.
ANECDOTES OF THE ARISTOCRACY,
AND
EPISODES m MCESTRAL STORY.
By J. BERNARD BURKE, Esq.,
Author of " The History of the Landed Gentry," " The Peerage and Baronetage," &c.
Second Edition, 2 vok., pst 8vo., 25s. bound.
The memoirs of our great families are replete with details of the most
striking and romantic interest, throwing light on the occurrences of public
as well as domestic life, and elucidating the causes '^f many important
national events. How little of the personal history of the Aristocracy is
generally known, and yet how full of amusement is the subject ! Almost
every eminent family has some event connected with its rise or great-
ness, some curious tradition interwoven with its annals, or some calamity
casting a gloom over the brilliancy of its achievements, which cannot fail
to attract the attention of that sphere of society to which this work more
particularly refers, and must equally interest the general reader, with
whom, in this country, the records of the higher classes have always pos-
sessed a peculiar attraction. The anecdotes of the Aristocracy here re-
corded go far to show that there are more marvels in real life than in the
creations of fiction. Let the reader seek romance in whatever book, and
at whatever period he may, yet nought will he find to surpass the unex-
aggerated reality here unfolded.
" Mr. Burke has here given us the most curious incidents, the most stirring tales, and
the most remarkable circumstances connected ■with the histories, public and private, of our
noble houses and aristocratic families, and has put them into a shape which will preserve
them in the Ubrary, and render them the favourite study of those who are interested in
the romance of real life. These stories, with all the reaUty of estabUshed fact, read with
as much spirit as the tales of Boccacio, and arc as fall of strange matter for reflection and
amazement." — Britannia.
" Two of the most interesting volumes that have ever issued from the press. There are
no less than one hundred and twenty-three of the most stirring and captivating family
episodes we ever remember to have perused. The ' Anecdotes of the Aiistocracy' will be
read from the palace to the hamlet; and no one can rise from these volumes without
deriving a useful knowledge of some chapter of family history, each connected with one or
other of the great houses of the kingdom." — British Army Despatch.
" We cannot estimate too highly the interest of Mr. Burke's entertaining and instnictive
work. For the curious nature of the details, the extraordinary anecdotes related, the
strange scenes described, it would be difficult to find a parallel for it. It will be read by
every one." — Sunday Times.
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
THE CASTLEREAGH LETTERS AND DESPATCHES.
Now ready, in 4 vols. 8vo., price 14s. each, printed uniformly with the Wellington and
Nelson Despatches- Vols. 3 and 4 may be had separately to complete sets.
MEMOIRS AND CORRESPONDENCE
VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH.
EDITED BY HIS BROTHER,
CHARLES VANE, MARQUIS OF LONDONDERRY,
G.C.B., &c.
" This valuable publication gives us a new insight into history. We are always thankful
to get Stite Papers at full length. They are the true lights of history, and its best and
surest materials." — Athenamm.
" A work of the highest and most universal interest. It were superfluous to insist on
the extraordinary interest and importance which must belong to so valuable a work as this,
contaimng so many original and authentic memorials, and curious and important docu-
ments, written by some of the most remarkable men of an epoch the most strange and
eventful." — Morning Chronicle.
" The most valuabl' contribution to modem history that we know of is to be found in
these Memoirs and Correspondence of Lord Castlereagh. They are, in fact, invaltuMe
records of facts, and without them it is impossible for any man to say that, up to this
moment, he has had tlie opportunity of knowing the reed history of the Irish Rebellion, or
the arrangements for a Union. The great value of the work is the ' Correspondence' — the
letters which passed between Lord Castlereagh and others at the very tune the great, and,
in many instances, awful events to which they recur, were passing. In these documents all
is unreservedly exposed. There have been assertions and suspicions one one side — here are
the statements and facts on the other. Full justice never was done, and never could be
done, to the acts as well as the motives of Lord Castlereagh, but by a pubhcation such as
now lies before us. The more widely these volumes are circulated, the more certainly will
truth be vindicated, falsehood exposed, and calumny refuted." — Morning Herald.
" It is very remarkable that the three great leading objects and measures of Lord Castle-
reagh's political life — a State provision for the Roman CathoUc Clergj-, the Union, and the
great European Settlement of 1815 — measures of infinitely greater importance than had
been for near a century and a half connected with the individual responsibility of any British
statesman — should have been, in that great chapter of accidents which bears the date of
1848, brought to a trial such as no human foresight could have anticipated, and the result
of which no human judgment can venture to predict." — Quarterly Review.
MR COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.
DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE
OF
SAMUEL PEPYS, F.R.S.,
SECRETARY TO THE ADMIRALTY IX THE HEIOXS OK CriARI-ES II. AND JAMK.S II.
EDITED BY LORD BRAYBKOOKE.
New and Revised Edition, with numerous Passages now restored from tlie Oiiginal Manu-
script, and many Additional Notes, complete m 5 vols., post 8vo., with Portraits, &e.,
price 10s. Cd. each, bound.
" Pepys' Diary is now to appear in its integral state. This, the third edition of the
best book of its kind in the J^nglisli language, is therefore the only true edition of the
book. The new matter is extremely curious, and occasionally far more characteristic and
entertaining 'than the old. The writer is seen in a clearer light, and the reader is t.aken
into his inmost soul. Pepys' Diary is the ablest picture of the age in which the writer lived,
and a work of standard importance in English literature." — Afhenmtm.
" Pepys' Diary makes us comprehend the great historical events of the age, and the
people who bore a pivrt in them, and gives us more clear glimpses into the true English life
of the times, than all the other memorials of them that have come down to our own." —
Edinburgh Review.
" There is much in Pepys' Diary that throws a distinct and vivid light over the picture
of England and its government during the period succeeiling the Restoration. If, quitting
the broad path of historv, we look for minute information concerning ancient manners and
customs, the progress of' arts and sciences, and the various branches of antiquity, we have
never seen a mine so rich as these volumes. The variety of Pepys' tastes and pursuits led
him into almost every department of life. He was a man of business, a man of informa-
tion, a man of whim, and, to a certain degree, a man of pleasure. He was a statesman,
a bel-esprit, a virtuoso, and a connoisseur. His curiosity made him an unwearied, as well
as an imiversal, learner, and whatever he saw found its way into his tables." — Quarterly
Review.
" We owe Pepys a debt of gratitude for the rare and curious infonnation he has
bequeathed to us m this most amusing and interesting work. His Diary is valuable, as
depicting to us many of the most unpoi-tfmt character of the times. Its author has
bequeathed us the records of his heart, the very reflection of his energetic mind ; and his
quaint but happy narrative clears up numerous disputed points, throws Ught into many of
tne dark comers of history, and lays bare the hidden substratum of events which gave
birth to, and supported the visible progress of, the nation." — Tail's Maf/azine.
" Of all the records that have ever been published, IVpys' Diary gives us the most
vivid and trustworthy picture of the times, and the clearest view of the state of English
pubhc affairs and of English society during the reign of Charles If. We see there, as in a
map, the vices of the Monarch, the intrigues of the Cabinet, the wanton follies of the
Court, and the many calamities to which the nation was subjected during the memo-
rable period of fire, plague, and general licentiousness. In the present edition all the
suppressed passages have been restored, and a large amount ot v.aluable explanatory
notes have been added. Thus tliLs third edition stands alone as the only complete one.
Lord Braybrooke has efficiently performed the duties of editor an<l annotator, and has
conferred a lasting favour on the public by giving them Pepys' Diary in its integi ity." —
MomifUf Pout.
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
LIYES OF THE QUEENS OF EXGUm
BY AGNES STRICKLAND.
DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO HER RLAJESTY.
Complete in 12 vols., wtli Portraits, price 10s. 6d. each, bound. The latter volumes
may be had separately, to complete sets.
" These volumes have the fascination of a romance united to the integrity of history.
The work is written by a lady of considerable learning, indefatigable industry, and careful
judgment. All these qualifications for a biographer and an historian she has brought to
bear upon the subject of her volumes, and from them lias resulted a narrative interesting
to all, and more particularly interesting to that portion of the community to whom the
more refined researches of literature afford pleasure and instruction. The whole work
should be read, and no doubt will be read, by all who are anxious for information. It is a
lucid arrangement of facts, derived from authentic sources, exhibiting a combination of
industry, learning, judgment, and impartiality, not often met with in biographers of
crowned heads." — Times.
" This remarlcable, this truly great historical work, is now brought to a conclusion. In
this series of biographies, in which the severe truth of history takes almost the wildness of
romance, it is the smgular merit of Miss Strickland that her research has enabled her to
throw new light on many doubtful passages, to bring forth fresh facts, and to render every
portion of our annals which she hiis described an interesting and valuable study. She has
given a most valuable contribution to the history of England, and we have no hesitation in
affirming that no one can be said to possess an accurate knowledge of the history of the
country who has not studied her ' Lives of the Queens of England.' " — Morning Herald.
" A most valuable and entertaining work. There is certainly no lady of our day who
has devoted her pen to so beneficial a purpose as iliss Strickland. Isor is there any other
whose works possess a deeper or more enduring interest. Miss Strickland is to our mind
the first literary lady of the age." — Chronicle.
" We must pronounce Miss Strickland beyond all comparison the most entertainuig
historian in the Englbh language. She is certainly a woman of powerful and active mind,
as well as of scrupulous justice and honesty of purpose." — Morning Post.
" Miss Strickland has made a very judicious use of many authentic MS. authorities not
previously collected, and the result is a most interesting addition to our biographical
library." — Quarterly Review.
" A valuable contribution to historical knowledge. It contains a mass of every kind of
historical matter of interest, which industry and research could collect. VVe have derived
much entertainment and instruction from the work." — Athenceum.
MR. COLBUKN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.
CHATEAUBRIAND'S MEMOIRS,
FROM HIS BIRTH,
IN 1768,
TILL HIS RETURN TO FRANCE
IN 1800.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.
Colbuen's Edition. One vol., price only 5s. bound.
" Chateaubriand's History of His Own Time becomes a classic as soon as published.
The genius of the author is not less conspicuous in his personal history than in his imagi^
native writings. The price of the book is so moderate that every one may obtain it. We
need not say that it will be an invaluable acquisition to every collection, small or large."—
Britannia.
" The appearance of this curious and amusing work, from the pen of so distinguished a
man as Chateaubriand, is a great acquisition to our literature. It is one of the most im-
portant and instructive books of the present day." — Morning Heraid.
" A work of peculiar and extraordinary interest. We very much doubt whether this
last work of one whose productions have been translated into every civilised tongue, and
have moved the admiration and the sympathy of milhons, be not the very finest, as it is
absolutely the most affecting, which even Francis Ren6 Chateaubriand ever produced. Here
we have not the lyric of a moment, but the epic of his hfe ; not a few passing treasures
gathered at random, but the accumulated gaza of his entire experience. It is the work in
which its author's deservedly celebrated genius was most at home ; and, therefore, the work
in which he was most unfettered and most powerful. It has, besides, another and a
higher interest. It is his last legacy to the literary world — it is a voice from the grave. It
IS full of words of force, beauty, solemnity, and wisdom." — Morning Post.
" The great characteristic of Chateaubriand is the impassioned enthusiastic turn of his
mind. Master of immense information — thorouglily imbued at once with the learning of
classical and of Catholic times — gifted with a retentive memory, — a poetical fancy and a
painter's eye — he brings to bear upon every subject the force of erudition, — the images of
poetry — the chann of varied scenery — and the eloquence of impassioned feeling. Hence,
his writings display a reach and a variety of imagery, a depth of hght and shadow, a
vigour of thought, and an extent of illustration, to which there is nothing comparable in
any other writer, ancient or modem, with whom we are acquainted. ' HLs style,' says
Napoleon, ' ia not that of Bacine — it is that of a Prophet' " — Blackwood's Magazine.
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
THE COURT AND TIMES OF JAMES I.
ILLUSTBATED BY AUTHENTIC AND CONFIDENTIAL LETTERS, FROM VARIOUS PUBLIC
AND PRrV'ATE M^VNUSCRIPT COLLECTIONS.
Edited, •with an Introduction and numerous Notes, by the Author of " Memoirs of Sophin
Dorothea." 2 vols., 8vo., 288. bound.
BY THE SAME EDITOR,
THE COUET AND TIMES OF CHARLES I.
Including Memoirs of the Mission in England of the Capuchin Fiiars in the Service of
Queen Henrietta Maria, by Father Cyprien de Gamache.
2 vols., 8vo., with Portrait, 28s. bound.
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ture of the day." — Morning Post.
" These works will be found most valuable — so valuable that we do not think any one
can have an accurate idea of the state of affairs and the condition of society in the reigns
of James I. and Charles I. who has not perused them. With these volumes before us we
actually seem to live again in the times of the Stuarts. They are truly important and
interesting additions to English history." — Morning Herald.
" Such collections as these do more to bring us familiarly acquainted with the real
aspect of life in bygone times than all the essayists and historians put together." — John
Bull.
" These valuable and interesting volumes serve to illustrate the Court and Times of the
first Stuart kings in a very effective manner. The reader is presented with the minutest
details of a period wonderfully fruitful in strange events. The gossip of the Court mingles
with the important detaQs of transactions of State ; a piquant anecdote is contrasted with
a grave conspiracy, and a momentous discussion in the House of Commons is relieved by
an interesting recollection of Shakspcare's Theatre, or a lively account of Ben .lonson's
' Masque.' The student of history, anxious to make himself well acquainted with the
chronicles of the past, should not pass over without penisal these important and interesting
memoirs ; while to the lover of romance, or to the diversified taste of the general reader,
their romantic contents will render these volumes peculiarly attractive." — Su7i.
" These new historical wo)-ks consist of a series of authentic letters written by influen-
tial and well-informed persons, and containing much information respecting the important
transactions that were then taking place both at home and abroad; and particularly
detailing the movements of the great men of the Court and Parliament. Many interesting
details are also given respecting the Royal Family, both before and after the execution of tiic
King, and of the private lives of a great number of the distinguished personages who
flourished during tnis important and eventful reign, and whose names figure in almost
every page. The work is a riiost interesting, useful, and entertaining production, ,and will
be equally acceptable to those who read for study or amusement." — Messenger.
MK. COLBUKN'S XEVv' I'UiJLICATIU^-S.
SIR E. BULWER LYTTON'S NEW WORK.
In 2 vols., post 8vo., price 15s. bound,
KING ARTHUR.
Bt sir E. BULWER LYTTON, Baet.,
Author of " The New Timon."
" This grand epic of ' Iving Arthur' must henceforth be ranked amongst our national
masterineces. In it we behold the crowning achievement of the author's life. His ambi-
tion cannot lise to a gi-eater altitude. He has accomplished that which once had its
seductions for the deathless and majestic mind of Milton. He has now assumed a place
among the kings of English poetry." — Sun.
" We see in ' King Arthur' a consummate expression of most of those higher powers of
mind and thought which have been steadily and progressively developed in Sir Bulwer
Lytton's writmgs. Its design is a lofty one, and through all its most varied extremes
evenly sustained. It comprises a national and a reli^ous interest. It animates with
living truth, with fonns and faces famihar to all men, the dim figures of legendary lore.
It has an earnest moral purpose, never Ughtly forgotten or thrown aside. It is remarkable
for the deep and extensive knowledge it displays, and for the practical lessons of life and
history which it reflects m imaginative form. We have humour and wit, often closely bor-
dering on pathos and tragedy ; exploits of wai", of love, and of chivalrous adventure, alter-
nate with the cheerful lightness and pleasantry of la gaie science. We meet at every turn
with figures of a modem day, which we laugh to recognise in antique garb ; in short, we
have the epic romance in all its licences and in all its extremes." — Examiner.
" The great national subject of ' King Arthur,' which Milton for a long time hesitated
whether he should not choose in preference to that of the ' Fall of Man,' has been at last in
our own day treated in a way which we. think will place ' Kuig Arthur' among the most
remai'kable works of genius. It will be the delight of many future generations. It is one
of the most entrancing poems we have ever read ; full of great and rare ideas — conceived
in the plenary spirit of all-believmg romance — strange and wonderful in incident — national
through and through — a real plant of this soil, so purely the tree of England's antiquity
that we love it for kind's sake." — Morning Post.
THE NEW TIMON:
A POETICAL ROMANCE.
Fourth I^wtion, 1 vol., post 8vo., 6s. bound.
" One of the most remarkable poems of the present generation — remarkable in a three-
fold degree : its conception being strictly original — its language and imagery new — its ten-
dency eminently moral. It has beauties of no ordinary lustre ; the animus of the work is
essentially humanising, its plot ingenious, and its efiect altogether bold, harmonious, and
original. No jwem of equal length has issued from the English press for a number of
years with anything approaching to the ability of ' The New Timon' — it augurs a resus-
citation of our Bardic glories." — Sun.
HISTORY AND BIOGILVPIIY.
MEMOIRS AM) CORRESPO^^DEx\CE
SIR ROBERT MURRAY KEITH, K.B.,
Minister Plenipotentiary at the Courts of Dresden, Copenhagen, and Vicn7ia,
from 1769 to 1793 ;icith
Biogi'aphical Memoirs of Queen Caroline Matildti, Sister of George III.
Edited by MRS. GILLESPIE SMYTH.
2 vols., post 8vo., with Portraits, 25s. bound.
Sir Robert Murray Keith, it will be recollected, was one of the ablest diplomatists of
the last century, and held the post of Ambassador at the Court of Copenhagen, when
CaroUne Matilda, Queen of Denmark, the unfortunate sister of George III., was involved in
the conspiracy of Struensee, and was only saved from tlie severest punishment her vindic-
tive enemy the Queen Mother could inflict, by the spirited interposition of the Britisli
Ambassador. Sir Robert Keith also for a long period represented his Sovereisru at the
Courts of Dresden and Vienna ; and his papers, edited by a member of his family, throw
considerable light on the diplomatic history of tlie reign of George III., besides conveying
many curious particulars ot the great men and events of the period. Among the varictv of
interestbg documents a>mprised in these. volumes, will be found — Letters from Frederick,
King of Prussia ; Caroline Matilda, Queen of Denmark ; Princes Ferdinand of Brunswick,
Kannitz, and Czartoriski; the Dukes of Cumberland, York, Queensburj', Montagu, and
Newcastle; Lords Stormont, St. Asaph, Hcathfield, Hardwicke, Darlington, Auckland,
Apslcy, Barrington, Stair; Counts Bentinck and Rosenberg; Baron Trenck; Field-Mar-
shals Conway and Keith; Sirs Walter Scott, Joseph Yorke, Nathaniel Wraxall, .John
Sebright ; Dr. Robertson, Mr. Pitt, Howard, Mrs. Piozzi, Mrs. Montagu, &c., &c.
" A large portion of this important and highly interesting work consists of letters, that
we venture to sav will bear a comparison for sterling wit, hvely humour, entertaining gossip,
piquant personal anecdotes, and brilliant pictiu-es of social life, in its highest phases, both at
home and abroad, with those of Horace Walpole himself." — Court Journal.
WALPOLFS MEMOIRS
OF
THE EEIGN OF KING GEORGE THE SECOND.
Edited, with a Preface and Notes,
By the ijvte LORD HOLLAND.
Second Edition, revised, in three handsome vols., 8vo., with Portraits, price only 24s. bound
(ori^nally published in 4to. at 5/. 5s,).
" We are gkd to see an octavo edition of this worL The publisher has conferred a boon
on the public by the repubhcation." — Britannia.
" A work of greater interest than has been placed before the public for a considerable
time. The Memoirs abound in matter which is both useful and amusing. The political
portions of the work are of undoubted value and interest, and embody a considerable amount
of verj' curious historical information, hitherto inaccessible even to tne most determined and
persevering student." — Morning Post
10 MR. COLBUEN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.
LIFE AND TIMES
OF
THE EIGHT HOK HEMY GRATTAl^.
By his Son, HENRY GRATTAN, Esq., M.P.
Cheaper Edition, 5 vols. 8vo. Vols. 4 and 5 may be had separately to complete sets.
" This truly valuable work unquestionably forms one of the most important and inte-
resting additions to our biographical and historical literature that our own day has produced.
It offers us a complete history of Ireland during the period of Grattan's lift, ana tie only
efficient one which has yet been placed on record." — Naval and Military Gazette.
EEYELATIONS OF PRINCE TALLEYRAND.
Edited from the Papers of the late M. COLMACHE,
THE PRmCE's PRIVATE SECKETAET.
2 volumes, post 8vo., with Portrait, 21s. bound.
" A more interesting work has not issued from the press for many years. It is in truth
a complete BosweU sketch of the greatest diplomatist of the age." — Sunday Times.
COLBURN'S AUTHORISED TRANSLATION.
Now ready, Volume 8, price 7s., of
M. A. THIERS' HISTORY
OP
THE CONSULATE AND THE EMPIRE.
A SEQUEL TO HIS HISTORY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION.
Having fiUed at different times the high offices of Minister of the Interior, of Finance,
of Foreign Affairs, and President of the Council, M. Thiers has enjoyed facilities beyond
the reacn of every other biographer of Napoleon for procuring, from exclusive and
authentic sources, the choicest materials for his present work. As guardian to the
archives of the state, he had access to diplomatic papers and other documents of the
highest importance, hitherto kno'WTi only to a privileged few, and the publication of which
cannot fail to produce a great sensation. From private sources, M. Thiers, it appears, has
also derived much valuable information. Many interesting memoirs, diaries, and letters,
all hitherto unpublished, and most of them destuied for political reasons to remain so,
have been placed at his disposal ; wliile all the leading characters of the empire, who were
alive wlien the author un(icrtook the present history, liave supplied him with a mass of
incidents and anecdotes which have never before appeared in print, and the accuracy and
value of which may be inferred from the fact of these parties having been themselves eye-
witnesses of, or actors in, the great events of the period.
*»* To prevent disappointment, the pubhc are requested to be particular in giving their
orders for " Colburn s Authorised Translation."
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY, , H
BURKE'S PEERAGE AM) BARONETAGE;
CORRECTED THROUGHOUT FROM THE PERSONAL COMMUNI-
CATIONS OF THE NOBILITY, &c.
In 1 vol. (comprising as much matter as twenty ordinary volumes), with upwards of
1500 Engravings of Anns, &c., 38s. bound.
" Mr. Burke's 'Peerage and Baronetage' Ls the most complete, the most convenient,
and the cheapest work of the kind ever offered to the public."— Smb.
DIARY AND MEMOIRS OF SOPHIA DOROTHEA,
CONSORT OF GEORGE I.
Now first published from the Originals.
Cheaper Edition, 2 vols., 8vo., with Portrait, 21s. bound.
" A work abounding in the romance of real life." — Messerwer.
" A book of marvellous revelations, establishing beyond all doubt the perfect innocence
of the beautiful, highly-gifted, and inhumanly-treated Sophia Dorothea." — Naval and
Military Gazette.
MEMOIRS OF PRINCE CHARLES STUART,
COMMONLY CALLED " THE YOUNG PRETENDER."
With Notices of the E?bellion in 1745.
By C. L. KLOSE, Esq.
Cheaper Edition, 2 vols., 8vo., with Portrait, 21s. bound.
" This work may justly claim the credit of bejng the fullest and most authentic narra-
tive of this great era of English history." — Messenger.
LETTERS OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS.
Edited, with an Historical Introduction and Notes,
By AGNES STRICKLAND.
Cheaper Edition, with numerous Additions, uniform with Miss Strickland's " Lives of the
Queens of England." 2 vols., post 8vo., with Portrait, &c., 21s. bound.
" The best collection of authentic memorials relative to the Queen of Scots that has
ever appeared." — Morning Chronicle.
MEMOIRS OF MADEMOISELLE DE MONTPENSIER.
Written by HERSELF.
3 volumes, post 8vo., with Portrait.
" One of the most delightful and deeply-interesting works we have read for a long
time." — We^ly Chronicle.
12 MK. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.
NARRATIVE
OF
AN OYERIAND JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
By Sm GEORGE SIMPSON,
Govemor-in- Chief of the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories in
North America.
2 vols., 8vo., with Map, &c., 31s. 6d. bound.
" A more valuable or instructive work, or one more full of perilous adventure and
heroic enterprise, we have never met with." — John Bull.
" It deserves to be a standard work in all libraries, and it will become so." — Messenger.
" The countries of which this work gives us a new knowledge are probably destined to
act with great power on our interests, some as the rivals of our commerce, some as the
depots of our manufactures, and some as the recipients of that overflow of ^wpulation
which Europe is now pouring out from all her fields on the open miderness of the world."
— Blackwood's Magazine.
MK. ROSS' YACHT VOYAGE
TO
DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN,
IN LORD RODNEY'S CUTTER " THE IRIS."
Second Edition, 1 vol., 10s. 6d. bound.
" There is not a sporting man in the country who could peruse these volumes without
9eriving a considerable amount of pleasure and profit from their pages. No one should
think of visiting Nonvay, Denmark, or Sweden, without consulting them." — Era.
FIVE YEAES IN KAFFIRLAND:
WITH SKETCHES OF
THE LATE WAR IN THAT COUNTRY.
By MRS. HARRIET WARD
(Wife of Captain Ward, 91st Regibie.nt).
Second Edition, 2 vols., post 8vo., with Portraits of Col. Somerset, the Kaffir Chief
Sandilla, &c., 21s. bound.
" Mrs. Ward's narrative is one of deej) interest, full of exciting adventures and wild and
graphic descriptions of scenes the most extraordinary which coul I be presented to the eyes
of a traveller." — Sunday Times.
" The fullest, clearest, and most impartial account of the Cape of Good Hope and of
the recent war, that has yet come before the pubhc." — Naval and Military Gazette.
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. 13
THE CRESCENT AND THE CROSS;
OR,
ROMANCE AM) REALITIES OF EASTERN TRAVEL.
By ELIOT B. G. WARBURTOX, Esq.
Seventh Edition, 2 vols., with numerous Illustrations, 21s. bound.
" Independently of its value as an original narrative, and its useful and interesting in-
formjjtion, this work is remarLible for tlie colouring power and play of fancy with which
its descriptions are enlivened. Among its greatest and most lasting charms is its reverent
and serious spirit." — Quartei'ly Review.
" We could not recommend a better book as a travelling companion." — United Service
Magazine.
HOCHELAGA;
ENGLAND IN THE NEW WORLD.
Edited by ELIOT WARBURTON, Esq., .
Author of " The Crescent and the Cross."
Third Edition, 2 vols., post 8vo., with IHustrations, 21s. bound.
" We recommend ' Hochelaga ' most heai'tily, in case any of our readers may as yet be
unacquainted with it." — Quarterly Revietc.
" Tliis work has already reached a third edition. We shall be surprised if it do not go
through many. It possesses almost every qualification of a good book — grace, variety, and
vigour of style — a concentrated jwwer of description, which has all the effect of elaborate
piiinting — information carefully collected and judiciously communicated — sound and en-
larged views of important questions — a hearty and generous love of countiy — and the
whole pervaded by a refined but sometimes caustic humour, which imparts a constant
attraction to its pages. We can cordially recommend it to our readers, as well for the
amusement of its lighter portions, the vivid brilUancy of its descriptions, and the solid
information it contains resi)ecting Canada, and the position generally of England in the
new world." — John liuJl
LORD LINDSAY'S LETTERS ON THE HOLY LAND.
FocRTH Edition, revised and corrected, 1 voL, post 8vo., 10s. 6d. bound.
" Lord Lindsay has felt and recorded what he saw with the wisdom of a philosopher, and
the faith of an enlightened Christiiui." — Quarterly Revietr,
14 ME. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.
STORY OF THE PENINSULAR WAR.
A COMPANION VOLmiE TO MR. GLEIG'S
"STORY OF THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO."
With six Portraits and Map, 7s. 6d. bound.
" Every page of this work is fraught with undying interest. We needed such a book as
this ; one that could give to the rising generation of soldiers a clear notion of the events
which led to the expulsion of the French from the Peninsular." — United Sei'vice Gazette.
LORD CASTLEREAGH'S NARRATIVE
OF HIS
JOURNEY TO DAMASCUS,
THROUGH EGYPT, NUBIA, ARABIA PETR^A, PALESTINE & SYRIA.
2 vols., post 8vo., with Illustrations, bound.
" These volumes are replete with new impressions, and are especially characterised by
great power of hvely and graphic description." — New Monthly.
ADYENTURES IN BOMEO OF CHAELES
MEREDITH:
A TALE OF SHIPWRECK.
Second Edition, 1 vol., post 8vo., 7s. 6d. bound.
" A heart-touching story of ship^vreck in the Bomean seas and captivity amongst the
savage Dyaks. The beauty and earnestness of style, combined with tlie history of the
many-coloured web of strange destinies undergone by the hero, young Meredyth, cannot
faU to recommend this volume to a large circle of readers." — Morning Chronicle.
" One of the most interesting stories of real life that we have ever met with." — Nautical
Magazine.
THE NEMESIS IN CHINA;
COMPEISIKO A COMPLETE
HISTORY OF THE WAR IN THAT COUNTRY;
With a Particular Account of the Colony of Hong Kong.
From Notes of Captain W. H. HALL, R.N., and Personal Observations
by W. D. BERNARD, Esq., A.M., Oxon.
Cheaper EnrnoN, with a new Introduction.
1 vol., with Maps and Plates, 10s. 6d. bound.
" Capt. Hall's narrative of the ser\-ices of the Nemesis is fiill of interest, and will, we
are sure, be valuable hereafter, as affording most curious materials for the history of steam
navigation." — Quarterly Review.
" A work which will take its place beside that of Captain Cook" — Weekly Chronicle.
MISCELLANEOUS. 15
A WW SYSTEM OF GEOLOGY.
BY THE
VERY REV. "WTLLLA-M COCKBURN, D.D., DEAN OP YORK.
Dedicated to Professor Sedgwick.
Small 8vo., price 3s. 6d.
ZOOLOGICAL RECREATIONS.
By W. J. BRODERIP, Esq., F.R.S.
Second Edition, with Additions, 1 vol., post 8vo., 10s. 6d. bound,
" We believe we do not exaggerate in saving that, since the publication of White's
' Natural History of Selbome,' and of the ' fntroduction to Entomology,' by Kirby and
Spence, no work in our language is better calculated than the ' Zoological Recreations' to
fulfil the avowed aim of its author — to famish a hand-book which may cherish or awaken
a love for natural history." — Quarterly Review.
THE OLD JUDGE ; OR, LIFE IN A COLONY.
By the Author of " Sam Slick, the Clockmaker ;" &c.
2 vols., post 8vo., 21s. bound.
" Full of the Clockmaker's shrewdness and quaint comicaUties." — Examiner.
" There is a fund of wit and wisdom in these amusing volumes." — Sun.
" These volumes are redolent of the hearty fun and strong masculine sense of our old
friend Sam SUck. The last work of Mr. Haliburton is quite equal to the first. Every page
of the ' Old Judge' is alive with rapid, fresli sketches of cliaracter; droll, quaint, racy say-
ings; good-humoured practical jokes ; and capitally told anecdotes." — Morning Chronicle,
ADYENTURES OF A MEDICAL STUDENT.
By the late R. DOUGLAS, Surgeon, R.N.
WITH A SIEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 3 Vols.
" A most remarkable series of narratives, remarkable for the power — we will not he.si-
tate to add, the genius — with which the Mhole of them are treated." — John Bull.
ADVENTURES OF THE GORDON HIGHLANDERS
IN SPAIN, FRANCE, AND BELGIUM.
By J. GRANT, Esq., late 62nd Regt.
Cheaper Edition, the 4 vols, bound in 2, price 21s.
" Since the days of the ' Subaltern' there has appeared no such admirable work as this."
'—Ohttrv&r.
16 MR. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLIC ATIOifS.
— 5 ■ — —
THE MIDNIGHT SUN: A TALE.
By FREDRIKA BREMER ;
TRANSLATED by MARY HOWITT. 1 vol., post 8vo., 10s. 6d. bound.
" ' The Midnight Sun' i.s to be read, not so mucl^as a novel, to be galloped over at a sitting,
but, as we turn to the ' Vicar of Wakefield,'- to ' The Exiles of Siteria, and other stories of
the same class, for improvement." — Critic.
" Of all Miss Bremer's tales, ' The Midnight Sun' is likely to be the most popular in
this country. In delineating the struggles of the heart Miss Bremer Ls unrivalled." —
Britannia.
THE HALL AND THE HAMLET.
By WILLIAM HOWITT,
Author of " The Book of the Seasons," " Rural Life in England," &o.,
Cheaper Edition, 2 vols., post 8vo., 12s. bound.
" This work is full of delightful sketches and sweet and enchantuig pictures of rural life.
In these volumes there is more originality, more wit, more humour, more pathos, than in
any of those which have already issued from the same pen." — Sunday Times.
THE ENGLISH GENTLEWOMAN;
A PRACTigAL MANUAL FOR YOUNG LADIES ON THEIR
ENTRANCE INTO SOCIETY.
BY A LADY.
New and cheajxir Edition, 1 vol., price 5s. bound.
" Ever)' young lady may read this volume with very great advantage — so excellent, so
iadicious,"and so discriminating is the advice as to occupation, studies, dress, amusements,
Wliaviour, religious duties," &c. — John Bull.
THE ENGLISH MATRON;
OR,
A PRACTICAL MANUAL FOR YOUNG WIVES.
Forming a Sequel to " The English Gentlewoman."
New and cheaper Edifion, 1 vol., price 5s. bound.
" The value of such a work as this is uicalculable. Eveiy chapter points the way to
domestic comfort, peace, and happiness ; every page is redolent of family and socLil blessing.
Our countiTwomeu have to thanlc the author for such a guide. The work treats of every
matronly duty, from the days of courtship to tl.e end of all. To sum up, this is a volume
to form correct and virtuous wives, and good and affectionate mothers ; we can give no
higher encomium." — Literary Gazette.
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NEW AND CHEAPER ED I Tl O N S i^^^;^
INTERESTING WORKS.
LA.TELT PUBLISHED BY MR. COLBURN.
W.
Sir E. Bulwer Lytton's King Arthur, 1 V 0 10 «
Sir E. Biilwer Lytton's New Timoii, 1 V 0 6 0
Disraeli's Coniiigsby, 1 r 0 6 0
Disraeli's Sybil, 3 V 0 15 0
Disraeli's Tancred, 3 V 0 15 0
Disraeli's Contarini Fleming, 3 V 0 15 0
Pepy's Diary and Correspondence, 5 V. each 0 10 6
Warburton's Crescent aud Cross, 2 V 110
Warburtou's Hochelaga, 2 V 110
Walpole's Reign of George II., 3 V 14 0
Lord Lindsay's Letters on the Holy Laud, 1 V 0 7 6
Broderip's Zoological Recreations, 1 V 0 7 6
Story of the Peninsular War, 1 V 0 7 6
Lord Castlereagh's Journey to Damascus, 2 v 0 15 0
Fitzroy's Voyage Round the World, 3 V 1 11 6
Ross' Yacht Voyage to Denmark, &c., 1 V 0 10 6
Capt. Hall's Nemesis in China, 1 t 0 10 6
Howitt's Hall and Hamlet, 2 r. 0 12 0
Lady Blcssington's Conversations with Byron, 1 T 0 7 0
Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots, 2 v 110
Ward's Kvc Years' in Kaffirland, 2 V 1 1 0
Revelations of Russia, 2 V 110
Mrs. TroUopc's Travels and Travellers, 2 v 0 10 0
Letters of Illustrious Ladies, 3 T 0 18 0
Lady Hester Stanhope's Memoirs, 3 v 110
Lady Hester Stanhope's Travels, 3 V 0 18 0
Memoirs and Diary of Sophia Dorothea, 2 V 1 1 0
Klose's Memoirs of Prince Charles Stuart, 2 T 110
Bush's Memoirs of the Queens of France, 2 v. 0 12 0
Elwood's Literary Ladies of England, 2 V 0 12 0
Lady Morgan's Woman and her Master, 2 T 0 16 0
Lady Morgan's Life of Salvator Rosa, 2 r 0 16 0
Lady Morgan's Italy, 3 V 0 18 0
Campau's Memoirs of Marie Antoinette, 2 V 0 12 0
Life and Letters of the Empress Joscphiue, 3 r 0 15 0
Bourrienne's Memoircs de Napoleon (French) 5 r 1 5 0
Golovine's Russia under Nicholas I., 2 V 0 16 0
White's Three Years in Constantinople, 3 V 1 1 0
Vigne's Travels in Cashmere, 2 V 110
Townsend's Memoirs of the House of Commons, 2 r 110
Cobbold's Zenon the Martyr, 3 V 0 15 0
Cobbold's History of Margaret Catchpole, 1 r 0 10 6
Cobbold't Mary Anne Wellington, 1 V y. i. 0 10 6
HENRY COLBURN, Pubusukb, 13, Gt. Maklbobouou Stkeet.
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