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DIARY

Qeorge Mifflin Qallas

JVkile United States Minister to Russia
i8yy to i8ji), and to England 18^6 to 1861

EDITED BY
SUSAN DALLAS

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
1S92

Susan Dallas.

Printed by J. B. Lipwnoott Company, Phuadelpmia.

PREFATORY.

My dear Miss Dallas:

All lovers of literature, and especially all students of
history, will, I am sure, hail with pleasure the publica-
tion of your father's diaries of the events of his daily
life at the courts of Russia and Great Britain, which
are soon to appear under the editorial auspices of his
daughter.

His observation of affairs and his experiences, diplo-
matic and personal, while Envoy Extraordinary and Min-
ister Plenipotentiary at the courts of two of the greatest
powers of Europe, cannot fail to be of much interest to
the public, while all who knew him, and especially all
who, like myself, had the good fortune to be honoured
with his friendship and his confidence, will see in these
pages the reflected image of a personality at once stately
and genial, robust and refined, and equipped not only
with the learning which befits a scholar, but also with
all the graces and accomplishments which add such a
\p charm to learning and to power, wheresoever they are
found, when they are conjoined with them. Brought up,
as he was, in that atmosphere which now appears so
fascinating to us all, — the atmosphere which surrounded
the old school of American gentlemen at the period
immediately succeeding the Revolution, — and under the
care of a father, himself one of the most illustrious of
statesmen and lawyers which our country has produced,
"^ the friend and confidant of James Madison and one of

4 PRE FA TOR Y.

the pillars of his administration, your distinguished
father gave early promise of the great reputation which
he subsequently achieved among his countrymen.

From his youth up he was acquainted with the cares
and responsibilities of public office, and in every posi-
tion to which he was elevated by his countrymen, he
not only displayed great abilities, but also the most con-
scientious regard for both public and private rights,
and that zeal and assiduity in the discharge of public
duties which earned the approval of his fellow-citizens
and the commendation of all familiar with public affairs.
The diaries which you propose to publish were, as you
know, read by me long ago, and I found them full of
instruction and amusement. Mr. Dallas's pure and hon-
ourable life and his agreeable and courtly manners made
him always a favourite at the courts to which he was
accredited, and often, no doubt, put him in possession of
secrets of state which would not have been intrusted to
a less popular minister. Hence the diaries are full of
interesting facts, while the occasional gossip of courtly
circles adds much that is interesting as well as amusing
to the reader. These records of the daily experiences
and observation at foreign courts of one so quick of
apprehension, so versatile, and so competent to impart
to them an attractive form in their relation, are records
which we could ill afford to lose, and you will deserve,
and I doubt not will receive, the thanks, as well as the
praise, of all who read this volume, for having given it to
the public.

I remain, my dear Miss Dallas,

Yours very feithfully,

M. Russell Thayer.

Philadelphia, September 23, 1891.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR.

(NIOHOLr^3 I.)

1837 1839.

,1
I-

DIARY

GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1837. Jtdy 29. — The Independence made Dagerost
Point on the evening of Thursday, the 27th instant, and
with a brisk breeze on the quarter turned into the Gulf
of Finland at about eight o'clock ; continuing our course
almost before the wind, we reached the last light, the
Tolbeacon light, at about ten o'clock last night, and the
pilot deemed it most prudent to lay to until dawn, at
two o'clock this morning, when we made sail again
and anchored in the harbour of Cronstadt at about five.
While coming up the gulf, on this side of Horgland,
we passed a Russian squadron, principally composed
of three-deckers and line-of-battle ships, one dozen in
number, with the Admiral of which our Commodore ex-
changed a salute of seventeen guns. We saluted, after
anchoring, with twenty-one guns.

The day has been rendered memorable by a dramatic
visit from the Emperor Nicholas, accompanied by the
chief officers now here, among them Count Nesselrode,
Prince MensikofT, and the Governor of Cronstadt. The
Emperor is fond of these abrupt and covered visitations,
and plays the game with dexterity and ease. Our vice-
consul at Cronstadt, Leonartzen, happened to be accom-
panying the Commodore in his gig on a visit to the

8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Governor of Cronstadt, at about eleven o'clock, when
the barge belonging to the Imperial steamboat passed
them, and he immediately recognized the Czar acting as
its coxswain, and distinguishable from the officers who
surrounded him by a close white cloth cap. The gig
was immediately turned back in the just belief that the
Emperor would come on board the Independence. He
first, however, stopped at the Danish frigate lying near
us, and remained undetected for half an hour. He then
came to us, still acting as a mere aid or subordinate to
Prince Mensikoff, and coming last up our gangway. As
he obviously desired to pass without recognition, his
retinue paid no attention to him, and it was a matter of
obvious courtesy with us to forbear breaking in upon his
fancied incognito. He separated himself from the rest,
peered actively throughout the ship, spoke inquiringly to
a number of the seamen, and accidentally coming across
my infant daughter, took her in his arms, expressed great
delight at her beauty, and repeatedly kissed her.

His fine figure and penetrating eye had been remarked,
however, by almost every one, and no one was deceived
as to his reality. When going, he touched his cap to
Prince Mensikoff, inquired whether he was ready to
leave, and, being answered affirmatively, ran up the
gangway, descended, and again took the helm, while the
ceremony of departure was going through by the others.
Our Commodore now broke through the disguise and
saluted him with forty-one guns, which induced him at
once to resume the Emperor, to hoist signals to the Rus-
sian frigate ordering a return of the salute, to run up
at the mast-head of his steamboat the American ensign,
and finally, to display his Imperial standard. This last
act was instantly followed by tremendous salutes from

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. g

all the numerous men-of-war in the harbour and from the
various forts of Cronstadt. The effect was fine beyond
description, and our ship seemed to be for a time the
centre round which was acting one of the most beautiful
and exciting scenes imaginable.

During this remarkable visit I became personally
known to Count Nesselrode.

1837. /ufy 31. — ^The Governor of Cronstadt having
placed his steamer at my disposal for the purpose, I,
this morning, sent all my baggage on board of her, and
embarked with my family, accompanied by a number
of the officers of the Independence, for St. Petersburg.
Commodore Nicholson stayed on board his ship, the
Independence, and gave me a salute of fifteen guns.
Thus closed my connection with this n6ble frigate and
her gallant crew. It seemed like severing the last cord
which bound me to my home, and, with all my family,
I own I was deeply affected. The steamer was slow of
motion ; the navigation over flats and bars, although but
sixteen miles, required a pilot ; the sun was intensely hot,
and we reached the English quay, on the right bank of
the Neva, at about half-past four o'clock.

1837. August I. — Much time was consumed in order
to prepare for our presentation to the Emperor . and
Empress on Sunday next, and in examining the house
of Monsieur Bobrinski, near the admiralty, which is
recommended by our consul, Mr. A. P. Gibson.

1837. August 5. — I entered upon the possession of a
house I have rented from Count Bobrinski, at the sum of
nine thousand roubles, or eighteen hundred dollars, per
annum. It is fully furnished, and promises to be alike
neat, gentlemanly, clean, and comfortable. The opera-
tion of moving in has been laborious and fatiguing ; but

lO DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

I am overjoyed at again finding myself under a roof of
my own, with all my children around me, and, as it
were, once more at home.

1837. August 6. — Mrs. Dallas, my two daughters, and
I in one carriage, and Mr. Chew, my secretary of lega-
tion, in another, with an extra carriage for baggage, left
St. Petersburg to-day at about ten o'clock, and reached
Peterhoff Palace by twelve. We were shown into a suite
of apartments, and had served up a comfortable dijeuner
a lafourchette. After putting on our court costume, we
were informed that Imperial carriages would conduct us
to the palace for presentation at about half-past three
o'clock. Accordingly they came. I now rode with
Mrs. Dallas in one carriage, and left my daughters to be
escorted in the other by Mr. Chew. We were ushered
into a splendid antechamber up-stairs, the walls of
which were wainscoted with beautiful paintings, at
least four hundred different heads, all of great delicacy
and nearly the same size.

The master of ceremonies led the ladies into a corner
of the apartment overlooking the grand water-works, and
I entered into easy conversation with Baron Nicolai. We
were almost the first present. The room, however, rap-
idly filled with glittering officers, military and civil, and
with ladies, whose glowing, soft, and fair complexions it
was impossible not to admire.

After some time passed in listless expectation and chat,
I was conducted into a distant chamber and presented to
Nicholas I. I had hardly entered the door before he
came rapidly towards me, his hands both extended, and,
with an air of great frankness and ease, shook me by the
hands with the utmost apparent cordiality. His first
words were : " Mr. Dallas, you are welcome to Russia.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, II

I have to thank you for the very handsome and hospita-
ble manner in which my disguised visit to your ship was
received. I have never seen a nobler vessel. I found
you knew me after I had gone ; but did any one recog-
nize me while on board ? You were here twenty-
four years ago, but you could hardly know me,
changed as I am since then. I took your ship on the
moment of her arrival, in her ordinary sea-trim : I did
not want to see her dressed up. She is an admirable
ship. I am going to send some of my naval officers to
the United States to learn naval architecture and science ;
and I must request you to let them have such letters as
will facilitate their progress. Can you persuade Com-
modore Nicholson to delay his departure until after Fri-
day next, when the eighty-gun ship at the new admiralty
is to be launched ? I should be much pleased to have him
present and to hear his remarks."

To all and each of these inquiries I, of course, made
replies. He asked me also what the disturbances in
Canada were tending to, and observed that when a gov-
ernment became oppressive, and forgot the tender care
to which a colony was entitled, she justified resistance
and separation.

I told him that I put little faith in the alleged spirit
of independence in Canada ; that dissatisfaction had long
prevailed there ; but the people were not, I believe, ener-
getic or united enough for a decisive course of action.
We then spoke about Russia, and I said that I had been
much struck with the great improvements made during his
reign in the department of his marine, especially at Cron-
stadt, and in the magnificent structures of St. Petersburg.
" Why," said he, " I am perfectly satisfied with this people,
and will do all I can for them."

12 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

At the close of the conversation he again shook me
by the hand, and I bowed and left him. I had, during
a pause, put my letter of credence in his possession,
which he laid upon a table without opening; and, in
reply to my assurance that the United States were dis-
posed to strengthen and confirm the harmonious relations
subsisting between the two governments, he said that
he felt delight at the conviction of that truth, and would
not be behind my government in manifestations of cor-
dial friendship. I was immediately afterwards conducted
to the Empress, who remarked, among other things,
that our government was in the practice of changing
its representatives here very frequently, and she wanted to
know whether the same course was pursued as to other
countries, and whether it arose from any settled principle
of policy. I told her that it was indiscriminately done,
was partly ascribable to the changes to which all popular
governments were more or less subject, and in many cases
was imputable to accidental causes. " Well," said she, " I
hope you will prove an exception to this practice, that
you will be happy in Russia, and remain long."

We had been formally invited to dine with the Impe-
rial family as soon as we reached the palace, and as soon
as the form of being presented had closed, and the Em-
peror, Empress, the Grand Duchess of Wurtemberg, and
the grand duchesses, daughters of the Emperor, had
mingled in the crowd of the ante-room for about fifteen
minutes, the doors of the banqueting-room were thrown
open, a numerous band of music struck up, and the com-
pany proceeded, with apparently very little formality, to
dinner.

One of the masters of ceremonies led me forward and
placed me at table immediately in front of the Empress,

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 3

while Mrs. Dallas and my daughters were placed next
to the Imperial family, alongside of the younger grand
duchess. I was repeatedly addressed, on various topics,
by the Empress, who spoke distinct, if not handsome,
English. Among her other remarks was her desire to
know whether our novelist Cooper had lately written
another book, for he was her great favourite, especially in
such works as the " Pioneer," the " Spy," and the ** Last
of the Mohicans." She had, however, not read all, nor,
in my opinion, his best productions, and I recommended
the " Red Rover" and the " Water-Witch." She had
not heard before of his last work on England, and seemed
surprised that he should write about a country where he
had been so little.

I had cause to be officially and personally highly
gratified, and hastened to return to St. Petersburg. We
galloped home by nine o'clock, driven by a coachman
who was very drunk, but of whose condition we were
not aware till safely housed.

I left in the hands of one of the officers in waiting
the sum of two hundred roubles, the customary present
on similar occasions.

1837. August 13. — ^The frigate Independence sailed
from Cronstadt at about noon to-day.

1837. August 20. — Attended divine worship in the
chapel of the British factory on the English quay. The
two front pews have been civilly devoted to myself and
family. The clergyman, whose sermon was certainly
good, is named Law, and is of the stock of Lord Ellen-
borough and of Thomas Law, of Washington.

1837. August 26. — The Spanish consul here, Don
Raymond de Chacon, paid me a visit, to inquire about
his brother in Philadelphia. In the course of conversa-

14 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

tioD, he told me there was very little official business
for him to attend to here ; that, although Spanish prod-
uce to the amount of fifty millions was annually brought
into Russia from the West Indies or the Peninsula,
sugar, coffee, wines, etc., it came in British or American
vessels. During all last year but three Spanish vessels
came to Russia, to the port of Riga. I asked him news
from the seat of civil war, and this led to other general
remarks. He says Mendizabel is a very able man, but
no ability can compel the Spaniards to pay the levies
made upon them for the public service, which cannot
get on without money; that the attempt of Don Carlos
must fail ultimately, even if he succeed in reaching
Madrid; that he is fortunate in having excellent officers
in command of his forces, and that his soldiers iight
with an enthusiasm and devotion scarcely conceivable ;
that he is openly countenanced by Russia, who, if she
does not, as she in fact cannot, actually lend him money,
secretly and efficiently encourages and guarantees others
in doing so ; and that the pretensions of the people of
Catalonia, the principal supporters of Carlos, are so ob-
noxious to all the rest of Spain, and so utterly inconsis-
tent with the integrity of the Spanish monarchy, that
nothing more is necessary than a little additional success
on their part in order to make every other Spaniard a
soldier for the Queen.

1837. August 28. — The Countess de Ficquelmont,
wife of the Austrian Ambassador, paid Mrs. Dallas a
visit. She is very far the finest-looking woman I
have yet seen, her personal appearance being an agree-
able combination of Mrs. Maria Watmough and Mrs.
Wadsworth.

Our consul brought me cards of invitation to the sub-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR,

scription ball given on Wednesday next at the Palace of
the Mineral Waters. It is usually attended, I am told, by
the diplomatic corps, and furnishes a fair opportunity for
the ladies to see the fashionable world of St. Petersburg.

The Count and Countess Schimmelpenninck (Minister
from Holland) called late this evening. He is anything
but handsome, but speaks English slightly and French
fluently. He is an unaffected, plain man of business,
never before here, and confessedly as much like a fish
out of water in diplomatic life as I am. He has eight
children, the eldest sixteen years of age. He tells me
he has rented a house in the Great Moscoy, belonging
to Baron Talse, for fifteen thousand roubles. He says
that his family have long been concerned in our Holland
Land Company, and he manifested some pleasure when
I told him that I did not believe the commercial distress
of our country would affect the Genesee lands or their
farmers.

1837. September 8. — Mr. RodoBnikine called this morn-
ing; among other matters he referred to the wretched
condition of the Russian peasantry, and said that they
were in the habit of burying their money, whether silver
or gold, and of pretending to be utterly destitute ; that
four or five hundred rubles was a very large sum for them
to own, and that until a recent ukase of the present
Emperor they were not competent to hold any portion
of the soil, but that now there were about a million of
them who owned small tracts of land, which they farmed.
He expressed an opinion that too much labour was already
bestowed upon agriculture, and that more was produced
than could be consumed, and no markets were to be
found for the surplus. Great quantities of sheep were
raised in the southern provinces, and Count Nesselrode

l6 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

had, in the neighbourhood of Wosnesensk, a flock of
about seventeen thousand merinos.

We repeated some of our diplomatic visits to-day, only
finding the Countess Ficquelmont (Austrian embassy)
at home. I mentioned to her that the United States
were about to form diplomatic relations with Austria,
and that we should all be proud to see her some day or
other in America. She blushed for an instant, and then
said that when fourteen years of age (I should suppose
her now to be about thirty-five) she had been on the eve
of marrying an American by the name of Dulaney, but
that her mother had interfered and prevented it; she
would otherwise have gone to my country and have there
spent her life ; and she seemed to recur to its beauties
and fertility as to pictures which a young and ardent
correspondent had indelibly engraven on her memory.

1837. September 10. — The imports of tobacco into St.
Petersburg have been the subject of my study to-day. I
am satisfied that we supply Russia with this weed to
an extent of nearly half a million dollars annually, and
that the trade has increased, is still increasing, and might,
by modification of the Russian tariff, be very largely in-
creased.

1837. September 11. — The ceremony at the monastery
of St. Alexander Nafsky attracted us to-day. It is that
saint's day, and usually a very imposing procession,
after much solemn church performance, accompanies the
image of the Virgin Mary from the monastery to the
Church of St. Kazan. The Emperor and his court, how-
ever, are absent, and things were this morning compara-
tively flat. The crowd of gorgeously-dressed officers
was considerable ; the priestly services were protracted,
and the throng of spectators in the perspective was long

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. \y

and dense. The badness of the weather no doubt inter-
fered disadvantageously. The church in the monastery
is remarkably fine : its lofty dome, finely-arched ceilings,
rich altar, countless paintings of uncommon excellence,
and the sumptuous silver tomb of the saint, were all
sources of much gratification. Nor could we avoid
being struck with the music of the chanting, character-
ized, as it was, by some of the deepest and most powerful
voices I ever heard. There must be something in the
worship of the Greek Church more impressive than a
stranger who cannot understand its language, and, there-
fore, cannot follow its forms, is apt to imagine. It was
singular to see the apparent earnestness and reverence
with which, as the consecration closed, the gaudily-
dressed officers of state and army and navy, some of
whom we knew, hastened to kiss the cross, held mildly
forward by the officiating priest, and the external cover-
ings of the saint's monument.

The Saxon charge. Baron de Seebach, spent tea-time
with us. He gave me an animated account of my land-
lord. Count Bobrinski, who is about twenty-eight years
of age and married. His fortune is immense ; he takes
the lead in munificent subscriptions and contributions to
all enterprises of importance, and is distinguished for
eccentricity. He derives his principal enjoyment from
the excitement of danger, — navigating his boat when the
wind is heaviest, and seeking sport in bear-hunting. On
one occasion he was fortunate enough to have a fight
with a large bear he had wounded, and whose tracks he
needlessly followed ; he was regularly hugged, torn with
claws, and would have been killed, had he not used a
knife, handed him by his servant, with great dexterity
and presence of mind.

1 8 DIAJtY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1837. October 9. — I visited to-day the Mining Com-
pany, an institution devoted to the improvement and
study of mineralogy, metallurgy, and kindred branches
of natural sciences. It is located in a splendid building
on the west bank of the Neva, and forms a conspicuous
object as the city is approached from Cronstadt. The
collection of minerals and fossils is extensive and most
beautifully arranged. Nothing can exceed their neat-
ness. I saw here the largest lump of naked gold, weigh-
ing twenty-four pounds; the huge rock of malachite,
weighing three thousand four hundred and fifty-six
pounds; and a number of beautiful models of celebrated
mines, factories, and projected bridges, etc. At present
there are two hundred and fifty students in the college,
though they can accommodate four hundred. The di-
rector, whose name I procured from one of the officers,
in order to be able to write to him about the box of
minerals confided to my care by Dr. Waggener, of
Easton, is General Weixenbreyer.

1837, October 10. — I have had to-day a protracted

and agreeable call from Count de R , the Danish

charge d'affaires. Our conversation assumed a cast
of peculiar interest to me, in relation to public men,
and to the difficulties of acquiring information on
the internal condition and administration of affairs in
Russia. He expressed a very high opinion of the abili-
ties of Lord Durham, who told him, shortly before he
left here, that he intended spending this winter in the
south of Europe ; to abstain during his return to Eng-
land from entering into busy politics ; and to come again
to St. Petersburg in the summer of next year. He
presumes that the death of the King, William IV., altered
his position and plans in some degree. He describes

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I9

him as naturally a proud, haughty, and resolute man ;
well versed in the practice of business; eager to be
the chief wherever he is, and bent upon being premier
sooner or later. Europe, he thinks, will applaud his
moderation in reference to the case of the Vixen, when
it is known that, having had it in his power to produce
a general war, and being impelled to it by his own min-
istry and by the inclination of his own sovereign, he
nevertheless boldly and effectually pursued a course to
maintain peace. He assumed, indeed, an attitude in all
his public conduct, of unexampled independence, as
well in reference to his own as to thi^government. He
was in the habit, whenever any Russian officer thwarted
his views, of going directly to the Emperor, and of en-
forcing his complaints even so far as, on several occasions,
to obtain the dismissal of those of whose conduct he
complained. I told him that I thought, after all, his
lordship would find his way into the British cabinet,
principally on account of his known radical principles,
and the expediency of conciliating the radical party.
He said that he was in reality a higher-toned politician
than Sir Robert Peel, and that his recent abjuration of
radicalism was nothing more than a return to natural
sentiment from the disguises of policy.

The present Emperor proposes to emancipate the serfs
on the Imperial domain, and to confide their government
to Kitisoff. The example will ultimately work its way;
but its progress must necessarily be very slow, as it will
be resisted by the great nobles.

1837. October 12. — I accompanied my family to-day
in visiting two places well deserving the curiosity of
strangers, — the Tauride Palace and the Preobrajensky
Church annexed to the Smolnoy Monastery.

20 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

The palace is probably but little inhabited now. Its
furniture in general seemed old and neglected, and the
temperature throughout was disagreeably cold. With
the exception of two or three, the rooms are small. The
objects of attraction are: First, the banqueting-hall,
a spacious colonnade, opening on one side into an ex-
tensive conservatory, with a profusion of plants, smooth
gravel walks, and fixtures for splendid illuminations;
there are beautiful specimens of antique sculpture sta-
tioned between the Corinthian pillars and some noble
marble vases; the pillars are surrounded by artificial
garlands, twining to the dome, and sustaining innumer-
able lights; the bas-reliefs were crowded and exceed-
ingly fine ; second, the collection of paintings distributed
through all the apartments, and in one of them arranged
in panels so as to cover entirely two sides, is cele-
brated; the architectural pieces and the city views
struck me as the most vivid and true I had ever seen.
The enormous picture of Orpheus before Pluto sur-
rounded by the Fates and Judges, with Cerberus charmed
into silence in one corner, and the shade of Eurydice
impelled forward in the background, seemed to my
eye of the French school. There were excellent speci-
mens of other schools ; third, the collection of ancient
marbles, busts, figures, and groups is admirable ; a good
copy of the Laocoon adorned the head of the banquet-
ing-hall. Several figures of laughing children were
exceedingly delightful, and, fourth, the gorgeous temple
of malachite columns, mosaic slab, Siberian porphyry
steps, and rich gold ornaments, which occupies the
centre of the circular hall of entrance. This is tempo-
rarily placed there, and kept covered by an immense
round screen that is hoisted by pulleys ; it is intended by

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 21

DimidofT as a present to the church now building in St.
Isaac Place, in the rear of the statue of Peter the Great.

The Preobrajensky (commonly called Smolnoy)
Church struck us all as by far the most beautiful one
we have yet seen. The purity of its milk-white pol-
ished columns, the exquisite delicacy and grandeur
of its dome, the gorgeousness of its altar-piece, fenced
in by railings of cut glass and loaded with golden orna-
ments of the nicest workmanship; the splendid paintings
in its panelling, the light yet massive folding-doors of
carved gold, and the grand delineation of the Ascension
upon which the eyes rest as these doors open; the
superb canopy of the Emperor when he worships there,
and the chaste yet rich slab and its frame erected in mem-
ory of the Empress Maria, recently dead ; and, finally,
the tasteful form given to the many stoves with which
the building is warmed, — all conspired to make our
admiration more decided and eloquent than usual. I
can imagine nothing finer as a spectacle than what must
be the appearance of this church on occasions of solemn
ceremony, and when fully lighted up.

The river Neva rose to-day, under the influence of a
strong wind from the southeast, three feet higher than I
have yet noticed it to be.

1837. October 15. — Mr. Van Buren's first Presidential
message, made to the special Congress convened on the
4th of September last, was in Gcdignanis Messenger that
reached me this morning. Thus forty days elapsed be-
fore I received this most interesting document.

At so great a distance from the theatre of action, I
cannot pretend to speculate, with any confidence, upon
the state of politics at Washington. There are, however,
two or three conclusions deduced from recent news

22 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

which I think are reasonable and just. Two hundred
and nineteen out of the two hundred and forty members
of the House of Representatives were present on the
first day : allowing for some imperfect delegations and
some sicknesses, the number that attended indicates an
active state of the public mind, and a hope, on the part
of the opposition, of being able to effect something.
Polk had one hundred and sixteen votes for the speaker's
chair, and Bell one hundred and three : if, as is probable,
neither voted for himself nor for his competitor, then
the number present was two hundred and twenty-one.
The result indicates a sound condition of our party,
generally speaking : so decided a rally for so decided a
partisan as Polk is not to be mistaken ; and I feel assured
that the administration is secure of a steady support.
But the majority of thirteen cannot be expected to re-
main uniform and inflexible as to all measures, and I
apprehend secession or independent voting will take
place as readily and promptly on the questions respect-
ing the currency and the establishment of government
offices of deposit and disbursement as on any imaginable
question. No doubt, the election of the speaker ex-
tinguishes all idea of a national bank, and so far Mr.
Van Buren will be victoriously borne out; but his pro-
ject of relief — of severing altogether the connection be-
tween the national fiscal concerns and the State banks,
and of creating officers as means for that end — may be
embarrassed, if not rejected. The message is an able
paper. In its. tone and dignity it is auspicious of a new
era ; in its extreme length it belongs to the old class.
Its decision is admirable, and bespeaks, especially as the
production of a most sagacious politician, the strongest
possible confidence in the dispositions and will of the

Ar THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 23

people. The President is obviously sure of his ground^
and throws his views to his fellow-citizens with all the
boldness and the fulness which attest a conviction that
they will be acceptable and echoed back. If I mistake
not, the time has come for the most important operation
of finance ever yet executed in America: I mean the un-
meshing the public revenues, and keeping them always,
and at a moment's warning, at the control of the people
to whom they belong. The whole science of finance
will become simplified ; all the doubts heretofore mixed
up with its movements will be removed ; and the com-
monest farmer will be able to appreciate, with positive
certainty, the condition and capabilities of the public
treasury. What has the government got in its vaults ?
will be the only necessary inquiry in order to determine
all questions of expenditures.

I have some speculative doubts about this great
measure of isolating the public treasure which might
probably yield to the suggestions of clearer heads than
mine. I can very well perceive all the safety and con-
venience resulting from the plan, and I feel no sort of
apprehension about the pitiful augmentation of patron-
age or expense. But as a politician whose creed reposes
mainly upon the separate State governments and the
people, I entertain some jealousy of a proposition which
contemplates endowing, not the national executive, but
the Federal government, with a treasure absolutely inde-
pendent of all popular sympathy or local embarrassment.
Is it not the beau ideal of American republicanism that
the government, participating promptly and keenly in
the weal or woe of the people, is therefore perpetually
alive to their prosperity ? Ought not the government,
particularly as to its life-blood, money, to be always

24 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

embarked in the same boat^ sharing in the same hazards,
with the mass who are governed? If its treasure be
safe on shore, are not its dependence upon, and its at-
tachment to, the crew diminished ? Will not the influ-
ence of the people upon their government be lessened,
if not totally destroyed, when that government has ac-
cumulated a vast hoard of wealth, not to be affected
or endangered by anything they may suffer or want?
Suppose the surplus revenue at this moment to amount
to five hundred million, — and ten years of prosperous
hoarding would make it equal to that, — ^and see how
practically independent, both of the people and the States,
the general government becomes. There would exist
a central and consolidated power with a vengeance;
a power that would have as little need to attend to the
happiness of the people as had Napoleon, with his four
hundred millions of francs in the cellars of the Thuilleries,
when he meditated the invasion of Russia. It was cer-
tainly the doctrine of Chief-Justice Marshall that the
general government should always be capable of an
absolute, independent exercise of all its constitutional
functions; and in the abstract the theory is sound; but,
as a Democrat, I doubt whether we should be very vigor-
ous in carrying it into practice. I do not mean that I
would be in favor of preserving the connection subsisting
between the national treasury and the State bank : the
evils springing out of that are positive and overwhelm-
ing ; but I do mean to say that I doubt whether I would
consent to such an arrangement for the keeping and dis-
bursement of the public moneys as would make their
safety and availability totally independent of the condi-
tion, wants, wishes, distresses, and opinions of the people.
1837. November i. — The acting consul of the United

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 2$

States, Mr. Van Sassen, called on me yesterday. In
course of conversation he stated that he was obliged to
meet the Commercial Court at twelve o'clock, of which
he was one of the judges, and I obtained from him the
following description of this tribunal :

The three mercantile guilds embrace about eight
thousand persons. These are all entitled to participate
in the annual election of the members of this bench, al-
though, in fact, not more than two thousand take a part.
The court consists of one president (now and generally a
person learned in the principles and forms of Russian
laws), one vice-president (of the same qualifications), and
eight merchants. The merchants receive no compensa-
tion, and are obliged to serve for three years. The court
divides itself, for expedition and facility, into two sec-
tions, — one of four merchants, over which the president
presides ; the other, of the same number, with the vice-
president. Their jurisdiction extends to all controversies
in the slightest degree connected with and arising out of
any transaction of trade, and their decisions are final, if
the amount in dispute does not exceed ten thousand
roubles. An appeal lies to the senate. Their sessions are
secret, each section meeting twice a week and on differ-
ent days ; and the parties litigant may, if they like, em-
ploy lawyers, a class of persons here in no repute. The
judges have each an equal voice in deciding every cause,
and the decision is made by ballot. This tribunal was
established by the present Emperor about five years ago ;
and, as it is a court of record, it has had great effect in
systematizing and settling commercial principles and rule.
Its expenses are defrayed partly by the Imperial treasury
and partly by the city of St. Petersburg.

There can certainly be no lack of materials for corre-

26 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

spondence here, for everything and everybody and every
usage and every fashion are novel and striking. We are
out every day, one squadron of four or five in the car-
riage, and another on foot, and we uniformly return, after
two or three hours' exercise, with exclamations as to the
strangeness, the grandeur, the folly, or the beauty of what
we have encountered. On one day, an Imperial band of
music, several hundred strong, is met in the Nevski Pro-
spective, and our carriage moves slowly for a mile in the
midst of the finest airs most finely executed. On another
day, the postilion cracks his whip, and we are galloped
to a parade-ground and witness the evolutions of two
thousand cavalry, the men richly equipped in white cas-
simere, with helmets fit for Achilles, and mounted on
jet-black horses. Again, what carriage is that we are
meeting ? It is drawn by six grays, with postilions and
outriders all in crimson-and-gold liveries, and is that of
the Princess Galitzen, who is more than a hundred years
of age, and is the revered maid of honor of the present
Empress, as she was of the great Catherine II. Again,
we will wait till the approaching cavalcade passes by.
The moulding of the magical bullets in " Der Freischutz"
was not accompanied by a more horrible and grotesque
set of figures. They advance in pairs, enveloped in long
and loose robes of black, wearing hats with crowns fitted
tight and round to the head, and brims at least a foot
broad, each man carrying a blazing torch in the clear
sunshine. There may be a hundred of them, and in the
centre of the line there is borne upon the shoulders of six
or eight a bright, gaudy, tinselled, scarlet coffin !

It is not necessary that I should pause to find subjects
for description. The commonest and most constantly
recurring appearances are singular to our eye and taste.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 2y

The streets afford at every step something for comment.
Here, for instance, comes a mere labourer. His cov-
ering is a sheepskin cloak, the wool inwards, lapping
over in front, and kept together by a coarse and often
colored girdle. It is dirty externally beyond concep-
tion, smeared black with grease, and smells most offen-
sively. He wears a hat of no shape, with the band
drawn tight half-way in the crown. His feet are hid in
a sort of matting, composed of strips about an inch wide
and plaited in the form of a moccason. His beard hangs
a foot from his chin. His moustache is thick and con-
ceals both lips, and his hair, coarse and matted, is cut
close and round, just along the rim of his hat. His neck
is entirely bare, and his skin is everywhere pallid, hard,
and dusty. This is an exact delineation of the mass of
the serfs or peasants whom you meet by thousands at
work along the wharves, or on the public buildings, or
at the highways. They are literally " the hewers of wood
and drawers of water," and when in the former occupa-
tion have a huge, broad, short-handled hatchet stuck in
their girdles ; when in the latter, they move in pairs, car-
rying an enormous conical bucket, hanging from a bar
of wood, which rests on a shoulder of each. The droschky
driver covers his sheepskin with a blue woollen coat, has
a black velvet collar and a scarlet belt. The domestic
servants indulge in every variety of fanciful clothing.
The shopkeeper is more staid in externals, but still pre-
fers the girdled coat, and is inseparable from beard and
moustache. The merchants, who are slowly rising in
the social scale under the auspices of the existing auto-
crat, are assimilating to the merchants everywhere. Dis-
tinct from all these, distinct and domineering, are the
military and nobles, — the military, worthy of personal

28 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

association only after their ranks have been winnowed ;
the nobles, spoiled by slavery, are fierce and despotic,
but hospitable and patriotic.

1837. November 14. — The French Ambassador, Barante,
paid us a long visit. He is obviously preparing for a per-
manent departure. His conversation, always intellectual,
was peculiarly agreeable this morning. In speaking of
the comparative characteristics of this country and Eng-
land, France, and America, he was particularly emphatic
in pronouncing society in Russia to be listless, sombre,
and indifferent or unexcitable. In Paris, people had no
time to note the weather or for sickness. Here time
hung heavily upon the health and spirits of all but
the natives, and they were heavier than time itself. He
gave me a brief notice of the Greek minister. Prince
Soutzo, who, he said, was in reality unknown to the soil
of his own country, having sprung from a family of Wal-
lachia of great distinction, hospodars under Turkish gov-
ernment, and having spent nearly all his life in Paris.
He had, however, exhibited great patriotism, made vast
sacrifices to principle, and stood deservedly high in the
affections of Greece.

I asked him whether he was going home to aid in set-
tling the policy of France as to Constantina. He said it
required no consultation or settlement : — it was impossi-
ble, without wasteful expenditure, to colonize Africa : —
the Arabs could no more be persuaded to turn farmers
than our Indians could, and no possible benefit could
result from their colonizing their conquest

He was much surprised to hear from me that Texas
was sufficiently extensive to furnish six or seven new
and distinct States ultimately to our Union, and pre-
sumed that all the Eastern and old States would op-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 29

pose an annexation which must be followed by the loss
of political power in the end. He had adopted an idea
from Galignani, and was astonished at my opinion that
Texas would, notwithstanding one or two difficulties, be
soon admitted as a member of the confederacy.

1837. November 18. — Strangers, on coming to St.
Petersburg, are apt to be early impressed with the belief
that they are vigilantly supervised, even in their domes-
tic recesses and conversations, by the police. Your prin-
cipal household servants are represented to be secret
agents of this body, who will affect ignorance of your
language and great personal fidelity, and yet be knowing
and dexterous enough to understand and communicate
everything to their employers. To me it is matter of no
importance whatever. I have nothing to conceal, and
entertain no feelings in relation to this government or
its masters which would betray me into idle talk. Never-
theless, we all experienced last evening a short fright,
arising out of this idea, which may make us for the future
more prudent. Mrs. Dallas had occupied the morning
in writing to her mother, and had freely expressed some
sentiments in her letter relating to the Imperial family
and to Russian society generally; just enough, without
any harshness, to make the notion of its being seen un-
pleasant. Called suddenly from her writing, she hastily
put her manuscript, with other papers, into the drawer
of the table, and was unable to recur to it again until late
in the evening. It was not to be found 1 Every drawer
or recess was carefully searched ; every sheet of paper
was separately examined; behind the sofas, under the
cushions, on all the tables, in all the rooms, to no pur-
pose. And yet certainly, most certainly, she recollected
having put it in one of the table-drawers, and with some

30 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

pages of ruled paper, which were there untouched. I
began to be worried. I asked to have the contents re-
peated to me, and did not quite relish the possibility of
their being inspected. We have an English nurse, just
now in a state of discontent. Could she have seized it
for mischievous purposes? We have a new, dark-eyed,
silent, and sagacious porter. He had obviously, while we
were at dinner, been in the parlor, and had changed the
candles on the very table. Could he have pocketed the
missing sheet ? The police-office and its instruments now
became bugbears. I had a notion of apprising the whole
household of what we found was abstracted, to demand
its restoration in the course of ten minutes, or to dismiss
every servant at one fell swoop ? Mrs. Dallas began her
perplexities, and looked upon the probability of its having
been stolen with great alarm. After working ourselves
gradually, by reflecting upon the possible consequences
and by repeatedly searching in all places fruitlessly, into
fever heat, when on the point of giving up all hope, I
suggested the expediency of taking out entirely all the
table-drawers and of looking into their cavities, as the
paper might have got shoved behind the drawers, or
might adhere to the surface of the table which it came
in contact with. Sure enough, there it was, according
to the last suggestion, sticking to the under surface of
the table, and remaining, therefore, wholly invisible when
the drawer itself was opened or taken out. Though at
once relieved from our solicitudes, we deduced from the
incident a lesson of prudence as to what we committed
to paper which will not readily be forgotten ; while at
the same time it struck me that similar occurrences
might often awaken an exaggerated and false estimate
of police interference.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 3 1

1837. November 20. — ^While riding yesterday, at about
3 P.M., we noticed that the bridge which crosses the Neva
near the Winter Palace had been floated loose along the
opposite shore; and this we conceived to be proof that
the ice was coming down from Lake Ladoga, and that
the police of the city were making the necessary prepara-
tions. This morning the river is filled with large masses
of ice, extending nearly from shore to shore, the bridge
from St. Isaac's Square to VasiliostefT has been removed,
and the boats alone now afford means of communication.

1837. November 22. — Lamartine, in his "Voyage en
Orient," describes a semi-official attendant or body-ser-
vant among the Arabs very much resembling the chasseur
in this country. The carvas were originally designated
by the Sultan to wait on Ambassadors and distinguished
travellers; they subsequently were attached to consulates.
I am not aware that the chasseur here derives his pecu-
liar functions from the government; he is, however
universally and uniformly recognized, and is exclusively
associated with diplomatic representation.

1837. November 23. — We go to-night to our first Rus-
sian entertainment since the dinner at PeterhofT, — the
soiree of Count and Countess LevachofT. We are invited
to come at ten o'clock, — and I presume we will reach
there by eleven.

1837. November 24. — We remained at Count Leva-
chofTs till between three and four this morning. He is an
aide-de-camp of the Emperor, a cavalry general, a noble-
man of great wealth, and his personal manners recom-
mend him strongly, at least to a stranger like myself.
His palace (for it cannot be otherwise called) is exceed-
ingly splendid, and enjoys the reputation of being one
of the most beautiful in this city of palaces. The Countess

32 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

has the look and deportment of an accomplished and un-
affected American lady, and often reminded me of Mrs.
Robert Morris, subsequently Mrs. Bloodgood. Both of
them speak the English language fluently. I counted
eleven rooms, of various sizes and furniture, opened for
the entertainment, all brilliant with light, paintings, and
decoration. The two largest rooms were appropriated
to dancing and card-playing. The order of arrivals and
departures at the front door was protected by hussars in
couples, and a shoal of most gorgeously-liveried servants
superintended every detail within-doors. The Count, in
full military costume, met us at the drawing-room door,
took Mrs. Dallas from my arm, and led her to the Countess
and then to a seat. I was cordially saluted by several
whom I had visited but not seen, and among them by my
old acquaintance Poletica, who is remarkably unchanged
in appearance. Many of the diplomatic corps were there,
— the Austrian, Wurtemberger, Neapolitan, Englishman,
Dane, Sardinian, Saxon, Swede. The company was,
however, not large, perhaps not exceeding one hundred
and fifty. The Grand Duke Michel was present. I re-
marked as very striking in figure and expression, Count
Orloff. We supped at about two in the morning. Count
and Countess Woronzow invited us to their soiree of
Thursday next

Count Nesselrode, though he still abstains from his
bureau, sent me an invitation, this morning, to dinner on
Tuesday next ; and we have all received the tickets for
the "Assemblies dela Noblesse" which are commencing.

1837. November 25. — I went to-night to the " Assem-
blee de Noblesse." The rooms, nearly opposite the
Church of St. Kazan, are sufficiently elegant and com-
modious ; the ball-room is, perhaps, very fine. Of the

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 33

company that convened, however, I formed an unpleasant
impression ; they were secondary in every aspect, — a sort
of shabby genteel. One of the directors, himself a noble-
man, stated that nobody was present, and he hoped that
I would bring my family to the next, when the Imperial
family were expected to attend. I left the palace in the
course of an hour, Sunday having hardly begun.

1837. November 30. — The soirie of Countess Woron-
zow Daschkaw was resorted to this evening. We went
at half-past ten and remained till four in the morning. I
met here, and was introduced to him by Count Nessel-
rode, Count Orloff, whose fine military figure and manner
seem to justify the high favour he is known to enjoy with
the Emperor. Most of the diplomatic corps were present,
among them the Marquis and Marchioness Villafranca.

1837. December 3. — The weather has remained open
and mild : a slight fall of snow during last night gives a
general appearance of winter, and for the first time the
little sledges are in numbers substituted for the drosch-
kies, but unless the wind shifts to the north we can have
but little frost yet.

My presentation to the Grand Duchess Helen, wife of
the Grand Duke Michel, took place at the palace at two
o'clock. On entering the door, I was saluted by a com-
pany of dismounted dragoons, and ushered up-stairs
through rows of attendants into a magnificent hall of
reception, supported in its vaulted and richly-painted
ceiling by noble columns of white mock marble. Here
I remained in conversation with two officers of the house-
hold, and admiring the walls and other ornaments of the
apartments. I was particularly struck with the glow-
ing and immense paintings executed on the milk-white
and glossy walls, and with the uncommonly beautiful:

34 DIARy OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

mosaic floor. After waiting there about twenty minutes,
I was marshalled through a suite of rooms until I reached
one of special elegance, in which the Grand Duchess
advanced to meet me with much animation and grace.
We stood in conversation for fifteen or twenty minutes.
Her dress was in nothing striking, except a single enor-
mous pearl of great purity which hung directly in the
centre of her forehead below the parting of her hair.
We spoke about my family; about her travels during
the summer; about the rapid improvements making
in Russia under the auspices of the present Emperor ;
about the annexation of Texas to our Union, and about
the possibility of Canada following in the same course.
In all she manifested much intelligence and vivacity.

1837. December /[, — My set of silver salts and cruets
were purchased this morning for one thousand and
thirty roubles ; and I think I thus adequately furnish my
dining-table, having already procured English glass,
French porcelain, Russian lights, and English cutlery.
My aim has been to unite elegance and taste with as
much simplicity as the subject-matter would admit. As
to vying, even remotely, with the gorgeous extravagance
exhibited by the principal members of the circle in which
as a national representative I necessarily must move in
this capital, the attempt would be equally out of char-
acter, in bad taste, and utterly futile.

I went, accompanied by my daughter, to a soiree at the
Countess Laval's. It is one of the handsomest and most
richly- furnished houses in St. Petersburg. Nothing
more strongly shows the magic of wealth. Th^ Count
is said to have come here originally as a French hair-
dresser, and certainly looks the origin at this moment
admirably ; he is short, mean, and insignificant in ap-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 35

pearance. The Countess is the personation of an in-
dented toad-stool, — fat, coarse, short, and ugly. They are,
however, both very kind persons and seem deservedly
favourites. He is one of the four " Maitres de la Cour."
His establishment presents many points worthy of ad-
miration. It is on the largest scale of private dwellings
in a city where all such dwellings are palaces; its
various apartments are adorned with the utmost profu-
sion and with great judgment; its largest saloon, an
oblong square of about thirty-five by twenty-five feet,
with vaulted ceiling, and walls covered with deep crim-
son satin drapery, is hung with choice paintings of the
best Italian and French masters; adjoining this is an
apartment of about the same dimensions, whose floor is
ancient mosaic from the Island of Capreae, and whose
sides are crowded with specimens of antique sculpture,
vases, and curiosities. I noticed especially here a most
exquisite antique Gorgon's head, another of Augustus
Caesar, and several that I could not identify, — the money
expended in this single room must have been incalcula-
ble; beyond this, and after passing a narrow passage, I
reached a most beautiful boudoir, modelled with the
most elaborate exactness, in all its colours, shape, size,
and arrangements, after an excavated chamber of Pompeii.
This seemed the pet piece of the Count and Countess,
both of whom were eloquent in pointing out its peculiar
beauties. There was one display at this entertainment
which I have not seen at others, except at the two public
balls of the Mineral Springs and " UAssemblee de la
Noblesse :" in the first of the range of saloons as you
entered, one side of the room was occupied by an im-
mense table covered with all sorts of delicacies, ices,
jellies, fruit, cakes, sugar-plums of all colors and fanta-

36 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

sies, coffee, chocolate, wines, liqueurs, and which was the
fountain whence the attendants afterwards distributed on
waiters to the company, or to which the gentlemen
resorted whenever inclined for refreshment. Cards, par-
ticularly, if not exclusively, whist, were playing in four
or five saloons; and Countess Laval, with entire compo-
sure, executed a most skilful game of chess with Count
Litta in the very midst of her guests in the most
thronged saloon. The party was what is here called a
rout, — without dancing, — beginning at eleven o'clock
and closing in less than two hours, and it was composed
chiefly of married ladies from thirty to seventy years of
age. I should not suppose there were four girls, as we
would call them, present. The dresses were exceedingly
handsome, but some of the matrons shocked my Ameri-
can notions not a little by a most profuse display of the
bust. Conversation does not seem to be as much a
pursuit as it should be ; generally speaking, gentlemen
arranged themselves in a dark mass on one side of the
saloon, respectfully and vacantly gazing at the ladies, who
were closely packed on divans, ottomans, or sofas, on the
other side or in the centre. The diplomatic body are an
exception to this remark, and seem disposed to make
themselves agreeable to their fair associates.

1837. December 10. — The Neva was thronged with ice,
which continued, however, in motion until about three
o'clock, when it fastened.

I was yesterday and to-day particularly struck with
the brilliancy of the moon, which, at about half past
three p.m., shone with that clear golden light we would
expect in the United States to see at about nine at
night.

1 837. December 1 2. — Yesterday, crowds were constantly

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 37

walking over the Neva upon a wooden platform laid on
the ice, starting near the admiralty.

1837. December 17. — ^Correa, tbe Portuguese charge,
spent the evening with us, and made himself exceedingly
agreeable. He mentioned that General Dearborn had
been very much liked at Lisbon ; that he dressed with all
the simplicity of a Quaker, with his long, white hair hang-
ing about his neck, and was an object of great popular
deference whenever he appeared in the streets ; that the
King was extremely partial to him, always shook him
by the hand as a personal friend, and on one occasion
begged him to accept as a present a gold snuff-box, sur-
rounded with brilliants, estimated at a value of forty
thousand pounds, but the General declined, as officially
prohibited, and, being pressed to take something as an
old friend, said he would accept the old gloves of his
majesty, which were accordingly given to him. The
snuff-box was afterwards reduced in its costliness and
presented to another member of the diplomatic corps.

1837. December 18. — This being St. Nicholas Day, and
therefore the " Name's Day of the Emperor, it is the sub-
ject of universal celebration. Count Nesselrode has a
multitudinous dinner at the ** H6tel du Ministere d'Af-
faires fetrang^res," to which I am obliged to go, " Selon
les Usages," in grand uniform ; and in the evening, as I
was formally apprised by the secretary of the court, Mr.
Maikailoff, some days ago, the Ball of the Nobility will
be attended by the Grand Duchess Helen, and all are
expected to dress their loftiest. The city, generally, also
undergoes illumination at night, and the Neva consecra-
tion.

1837. December 19. — At Count Nesselrode's dinner,
yesterday, all the diplomatic corps attended except Lu-

38 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

chenfeldt, of Bavaria. On such occasions established eti-
quette requires that Ambassadors and Ministers should
take their seats at table according to the precedence
arising from the dates of their respective arrivals at this
Court, Ambassadors, of course, as higher in grade,
being before Ministers. I took my place next to Mr.
Milbanke below, and, as I presumed, above Count Schim-
melpenninck. In the course of the evening, after we had
risen from the table, the Dutchman informed me that he
disputed the right of Mr. Milbanke to the precedence
he assumed ; that he had spoken to Count Nesselrode
upon the subject, and to Mr. Brunoff, and that both these
gentlemen were inclined to agree with him in the views
he expressed, and promised to communicate to him their
formal decision on the point. The result would, of
course, affect me by advancing me one step in the line
should the conclusion be against the British representa-
tive. The grounds of his proceeding are simply these.
Lord Durham was Ambassador, and, on quitting Russia,
he left Milbanke charge d'affaires, an appointment since
confirmed by the British government. As charge left by
an Ambassador, Milbanke ranks as a Minister Plenipoten-
tiary, and took that rank before either I or Count Schim-
melpenninck reached here; but he is not an Envoy Ex-
traordinary, and that is our most important and distinctive
grade, and the Count considers it essentially higher than
the mere Minister Plenipotentiary, and therefore entitling
us to precedence. It would seem, also, that Milbanke is
even Minister Plenipotentiary more by a sort of diplo-
matic brevet than by actual commission in the line ; and
his personal deportment appears to have kindled a dis-
position to pull him a little back from the forward posi-
tion he too boldly takes.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR,

At the " Assemblee de la Noblesse" all attended, in
honour of the day, " en grand costumed The effect was
striking, but somewhat fantastical.

1837. December 22. — The Imperial standard waves
this morning over the Winter Palace, — the silent proc-
lamation that the autocrat is again here. He probably
arrived during the night.

1837. December 25. — Received two New York news-
papers, confirming the entire defeat of the Democracy in
that State at the elections in November. Is this State,
then, relapsing into its former character for instability
and veering? I remember well that, until the success of
General Jackson, the politicians of Pennsylvania scarcely
ever thought it worth while to count New York one way
or the other: they had an invincible impression that
she pursued no principle, and was just as liable, in fol-
lowing the lead of her clannish families, to be against as
for the Democracy. She has relapsed — or collapsed —
with a vengeance, and I do not see how her " favourite
son" can reconcile it to himself to proceed without her.
He must either abandon his post or his policy ; and of
the two, I mistake his character if he would not prefer
the former. Were I in his position, I should be irresist-
ibly impelled to this course : firsts because it would in-
dicate a just submission to the voice of popular suffrage;
second^ because it would be an eclatante manifestation
of his disinterestedness as to office, and perfect sincerity
as to the opinions heretofore expressed ; third, because, as
a stroke of policy, effective by its novelty, it would prob-
ably make its actor the rallying-point of a new struggle
in which I could not doubt ultimate and glorious triumph.
It would be analogous, though in a much wider sphere
and upon less purely party grounds, to the withdrawal

40 DIAR Y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

of Mr. Rives from the Senate and his victorious return.
But my impulses are not exactly such as govern states-
men generally : so nothing of this sort need be looked
for; and I must confess that I fear being mortified by
finding the administration quarrelling among themselves,
weakened by changes, and timidly yielding to the panic :
I hope not, but I dread. Suppose, however, that this
extraordinary and unexpected result in New York be
but the forerunner of an overthrow to the Republican
party in the Union, and the reinstallation of Federalism.
The calamity will be great as regards the character and
progress of our institutions : we shall retrograde rapidly ;
but the evil cannot, in the nature of things, last long, and
the people may be taught a wholesome lesson of moder-
ation for the future. As to my particular self, — ^although, I
dare say, this result would be thought specially mortifying
to my feelings and disastrous to my fortunes, — I should
really not care for an opportunity to prove that sunshine
is not essential to my well-being in any point of view.

1837. December 26. — I dined to-day with Prince Bu-
tera, the Neapolitan Minister. He married a Russian
widow of immense wealth, owning productive gold mines
in Siberia. His residence on the English Quay is one
of the most splendid establishments I have visited.
There were present the Austrian and French Ambassa-
dors, the Prussian, English, and Dutch Ministers, Count
Woronzow, Count Matuzewitch, the French secretary
of legation, the Marquis de Villafranca, and a French
attache. The table was brilliant and the dinner exqui-
site, especially the dish of Neapolitan macaroni and
the glass of Imperial Tokay. During the repast much
conversation of a lively character took place respecting
Madame Taglioni, whose dancing, last evening, enchanted

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 4I

the Emperor and Empress. On this topic the Austrian
was poetically eloquent, and described the feet of the
actress as actually speaking. He insisted, also, that her
extraordinary length of arms greatly contributed to her
grace and activity, being admirable substitutes for the
balance-pole employed by tight-rope dancers. The
Marquis de Villafranca and I, after being introduced,
had a long and interesting confab. He is not an unapt-
looking representative of the Spanish Pretender, Don
Carlos. Of about forty years of age, short figure, round
limbs, jet-black hair and eyes, bushy moustache, and
swarthy complexion, he looks the young but grave
grandee. He has heretofore represented his country
at Naples and Vienna in different capacities, and has now
been absent from it for eight years. He is modest and
unassuming, and seemed quite conscious of the peculi-
arity of his position here. He had been well acquainted
in early life with the Yrujos ; recognized the old Mar-
quis from the manner in which I described his figure
and gait, and said that his son, a man of decided talents,
after being employed abroad, was likely to be distin-
guished as a statesman at home. He did not exactly
know how either the Yrujos or the Tacons sided in the
present civil war in Spain.

We prepared, this evening, the " Travels of Miss Mar-
tineau in America" as a present for the Grand Duchess
Helen, as she particularly requested a loan of the book
from Mrs. Dallas, at her presentation. I don't half like
giving circulation to the production, as if specially sanc-
tioned by me, although it certainly has much merit, and
is, with some exceptions, reasonably fair ; but it cannot
be avoided without making the matter of much more
importance and formality than is at all necessary.

42 DTAR y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

I crossed and recrossed the Neva upon the ice to-day,
and was amused by seeing the preparations making by
a body of men for an extensive skating plain. Trees
were planted in the ice on the line of demarcation ; some
benches were already stationed ; the snow was shovelled
and wheeled off, and through a hole cut water was pro-
cured and thrown in buckets over the appointed space,
thus securing a smooth and clean surface. On returning
home, while walking carelessly with Philip along the
English Quay, a single-horsed small sledge approached
at a rapid pace, with apparently one of the numberless
military officers in it, whom we see in all directions, en-
veloped in a light-blue cloth cloak, and with cocked hat
and feather, and speeding exactly in the same unattended
and simple manner. I did not notice, much less recog-
nize, the person in the sledge until after he had made
the usual gesture with his hand (putting it to the side of
his hat by his forehead and there retaining it), and had
nodded repeatedly at me, with smiles, as if endeavouring
to make me know him. I had just time to whip my hat
off and turn towards him most respectfully : it was the
Emperor of all the Russias ! He flew rapidly by, and I
observed that all who were in his track seemed aware
almost by instinct of his approach, and doffed their hats
and caps instantly. Here was the monarch of myriads
— the despotic arbiter of life and death and liberty and
law — actually and visibly enjoying the sleigh-ride in a
style as entirely unassuming and fearless and natural as
would be chosen by any one of his subjects or slaves.
The constitutional king, Louis Philippe, could not ven-
ture on this without the music of whistling bullets being
awakened, and even a king or queen of England would
run some risk of violence or rudeness. Yet such is the

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 43

every-day practice of Nicholas the First. He is probably
bold in the consciousness that he strives to do his duty, or
the excessive degradation of his slaves prevents the least
hazard of a generous aspiration and struggle for liberty.

1837. December 2y. — Dr. Lefevre's second lecture on
chemistry was delivered this evening, and I accompanied
three of my children to it. At its close we went to Mr.
Law's, the English clergyman, nephew of Lord Ellen-
borough and our Thomas Law, and remained till mid-
night. My daughters danced to the music of the piano,
while I took my seat at a card-table and won from his
reverence at whist ten roubles ! How strangely different
are the religious prejudices of different countries ! Mr.
Law dresses in black, and in that alone, when out of the
pulpit, differs from any of the crowd of gentlemen who
may meet in the ball-room, the theatre, or at the green
baize!

1837. December 28. — Dined at Prince Hohenlohe's;
meeting the French Ambassador, his secretary, D'Andre,
and his attache^ Marquis Darchiac, the Neapolitan Min-
ister, General Narischkin, Count Borch, General D*Apot-
chinine, Mr. Rianhardt, and another gentleman whom I
did not know. The service of china was singular : a
first set, for substantial eating, of English, light-blue fig-
ured Liverpool ware ; the second set, for jellies, etc., a
splendid series of paintings on porcelain, representing the
principal views of Paris ; and a third set, very delicately
finished,seemingly of Dresden, each plate containing a col-
oured picture of a village or chateau. This last struck me
as peculiar, and I examined the back of the plate and found
that all the scenery and houses represented, numerous
and various as they were, were described as " Appartenant
au Prince de Hohenlohe." As I sat near him, I expressed

44 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

my admiration of a delineation of an ancient chateau,
beneath which were written in gilt letters " Orient^' and
he immediately said it was the place of his birth.

As to the cookery, it was signalized by one dish, ^*Un
ponding a la Richelieu;'' the carte lay near me, and I
discerned its title. The rest was good, but not wonderful,
not as recherche as Buteras. I have yet to accompany
the ladies to Count Woronzow's soiree,

1837. December 29. — We were gratified last night by
finding the Emperor among the guests at Count Woron-
zow's. He had told the Count when at Moscow that he
would attend his parties, provided that they began at
nine o'clock ; the Count feared that was an impossibility :
his Majesty went, however, at the hour he had indicated,
and was alone until nearly eleven! Fashion is more
potent than autocracy. When I entered the room where
he was, I perceived him to be in conversation with Count
Schimmelpenninck, and forbore to advance : he caught
my eye, left the Count, and coming towards me we shook
hands, when he observed that he had met me two days
ago ; that I obviously did not recognize him, but that he
never saw any person for five minutes whom he after-
wards forgot.

Tlie Winter Palace is just reported in flames !

1837. December 30. — The great Winter Palace is now
a quadrangular stack of blackened and gloomy walls ;
still, however, at twelve o'clock to-night blazing in every
direction with almost unabated fury. As a spectacle,
it is more grand and imposing than any exhibition I ever
beheld. The Emperor has ordered all dangerous efforts
to arrest or extinguish the flames to be abandoned, and
the noble pile, with its gorgeous and rich contents, is left,
surrounded by an army in full costume, to consume itself

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 45

away. The whole scene is the celebration of the obse-
quies of some mighty monarch. As yet, the origin of
this calamity is merely matter of conjecture and rumour ;
but one story has an air of verisimilitude, and is gener-
ally credited. Some persons are said to have been en-
gaged in the apothecary's apartment in making chemical
experiments, and having accidentally ignited a quantity
of fluid, the blaze extended itself and gradually became
irrepressible and inextinguishable. The Emperor was,
at the time, in the theatre, witnessing the graces of Tag-
lioni, and hurrying home, he arrived at the palace at the
moment when the fire burst forth from several points.
This immense conflagration has in no manner disturbed
the general tranquillity of the city. No bells have rung,
no outcry has been made, no noisy engines have rattled
along the streets, and no crowds have been collected.
The process of supervising it being allotted to the military
and police, the operation has been conducted with the
silence, system, and despatch by which those two depart-
ments are characterized.

I did not retire to bed this morning until some of the
household servants were bustling about preparing for
the day. Circumstances, over which we sat brooding,
had excited vague alarms in all the family. In despotic
governments, fears of conspiracy and change are always
more or less afloat. The agents of the police keep
these fears alive, as necessary to their own importance.
Some of the French newspapers had contained a state-
ment that a plot against the Emperor was being actively
followed up. He went to Sarsko-Selo for some days,
on his return hither, instead of taking up his quarters at
once, as he was wont to do, at the Winter Palace. Then
he moved about without attendance or parade, as witness

46 DfARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the manner in which he appeared at Count Woronzow's
soiree; and we recollected, furthermore, many harsh
things said of his extreme and passionate violence in the
reviews at Wosnesensk, and especially towards a general
officer of noble rank, whose badges of honour he rudely
tore from his breast with his own hand in the presence
of the troops. All these ideas, when aggravated by the
light of the burning palace, would probably have given
way to farther reflection, had not, as if to invigorate and
confirm them, a notice been sent me from the Imperial
Guard that two other large fires had broken out in dis-
tant quarters of the city ; that a doubt existed whether
they were not the explosion of some general plan, and
that I was desired to be vigilant in the care of my own
household. I was on the point of revisiting the palace a
second time, when I met the soldier at the door who gave
this notice to my servant verbally. We were now coun-
tenanced, in some degree, in indulging our imaginations,
and we very soon worked our way into the midst of a
revolution and the conflagration of the city. I sent for
the secretary of legation to take charge of the archives
of the mission, stationed my servants at the points most
suited for effective lookouts, and tranquillized the family
as well as I could. The extraordinary silence that pre-
vailed was, however, the great restorer of intellectual
composure, and I got all to bed by two o'clock, except
Mr, Chew and myself, who remained up and on the qui

E.YTRACT FROM A LETTER.

" Dear Maria, — The vast Winter Palace of the Czar
has been blazing, unchecked and irrepressible, for
sixteen hours, and will soon be a mass of black ruins !

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 47

The richest, strongest, proudest regal residence of Europe
is no more !

" The fire broke out at about ten o'clock last evening.
Jumping into a sleigh, I reached the palace square in ten
minutes, but a military cordon was already formed, and I
could advance no farther. Silence the most profound
reigned everywhere, — no outcry, no bells, no roaring of
engines, no alarm of any sort; nothing below to be seen
but the flitting of police-officers on sledges, and the
hurrying of coaches and four to the palace doors, while,
above, the bright volumes of flame, augmenting and
spreading every moment, illuminated the whole heavens
and shed a most disastrous glare over the city. Even
curiosity seemed to be lulled, for, except at one or two
street corners, not a group to be seen !

"As soon as we had breakfasted this morning, the car-
riage was ordered, and we have en masse just returned
from gazing upon the still blazing windows of a pile
within whose walls we had promised ourselves a succes-
sion of delights during the present winter. Its interesting
and precious wing or detachment, the Hermitage, built
by Catherine II., and the repository of the finest existing
collection of paintings, jewels, and curiosities, has been
preserved by early cutting away the flying gallery which
united it to the palace. The fire seems to relish its
dainty food, and will not quit the repast before the expi-
ration of at least forty-eight hours. It would be idle to
speculate thus early on the origin of this disaster. Some
pretend that it burst out of the four corners of the building
at the same moment, and others that it was kindled just
beneath the Emperor's chamber. The fact is, that his
Majesty was at the theatre witnessing the graces of Tag-
lioni ; and that if a design existed against his person, it

48 DIAR Y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

was developed at a most unseasonably early hour of the
night. Nor can I see any motive for plotting against the
present sovereign ; such a plot must necessarily be in the
hands of the nobility and army, for as to the mass here,
they are as yet nothing. What good can the Boyars or
the soldiers promise themselves from removing an able,
indefatigable, and ambitious chief, in order to hasten the
reign of his son, who is young, amiable, and rather dull?
They cannot hope by any possible change to get a sov-
ereign so admirably fitted for Russia in her actual con-
dition, and so capable of pushing onward her European
ascendency. It is worthy to be told of him that when
he reached his burning palace, after quitting the theatre,
and heard that two or three men had been killed in the
effort to extinguish the flames, he instantly exclaimed,
' No more of that ; human life is infinitely more valuable
than human treasure. Let the building consume, and
only prevent its extending.' The worth of this can
only be fairly appreciated by those who know the incal-
culable amount of wealth that has been expended upon
and amassed within the palace. The value of the con-
tents is estimated at forty millions of pounds sterling !

"The disquietude created in my household by this
event was considerable, and has scarcely yet subsided.
Circumstances gave it intensity; and as we talked them
over, our conviction became rooted that the town was des-
tined to conflagration, and that we were in the midst of
a revolution. There had been much said of the Empe-
ror's violence at the reviews of Wosnesensk. Then a
French newspaper had intimated that a conspiracy was
tracing. Then on his return to this capital, instead of
taking up his quarters at the Winter Palace, as he was in
the habit of doing, he remained at Sarsko-Selo, an Im-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 49

perial chateau about fifteen miles in the country ; then,
again, he had made his appearance at a ball of Count
Woronzow's the night before, at which we were all
present, in a manner wholly unexpected, unattended,
and remarkable; then, and still worse, two immense
fires burst out in distant quarters of the city, instanta-
neous with that of the palace ; and worse than all, while
we pondered over these signs, I received a notice fi-om
the Municipal Guard that the conflagrations were ex-
tending; that they did not know whether they were
accidental or otherwise, and I was requested to be vigi-
lant in securing my own house. I forthwith summoned
out of his warm bed, half a mile off, the secretary, to
stand by the archives and public documents. I stationed
the chasseur at one point, the porter at another in front,
and the maitre d'hotel I specially charged with supervi-
sion of the stable. I remained on the qui vive until five .
in the morning, and though the glow of the sky seemed
to increase and expand every moment, and I reveried
myself into the conviction that Maelzel would soon have
a counterpart of his masterpiece of Moscow, I thought
I could neither expedite nor retard the catastrophe by
throwing myself on the bed and forgetting all anxieties
in sleep."

1837. December 31. — Dined to-day at the Princess
Bellozieskoy's, meeting Count and Countess Schimmel-
penninck. Baron Palmstjerna, General and Countess
Zukazanet, etc. Our hostess ranks very high in the
first circle of Russian society. Her family, wealth, and
hospitality give this distinction, besides being, what is
esteemed extremely, a maid of \\oviowr, ^ portraiss^ to the
Empress. Everything in her establishment bespeaks
vast resources, and an inveterate attachment to old fash-

so DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

ions, old furniture, and massive ornaments. Three sepa-
rate groups of sporting Cupids of solid silver constituted
the central decoration of her dining-table, looking pon-
derous, rich, and beautiful, also.

1838. January i, — The incidents of the conflagration
are rapidly developing and engage at present every
attention. The number of lives lost is differently stated :
some carry it up to more than two hundred, others to
eighty, and a general in actual service on the fatal night
explicitly assured me that but one man had been killed.
A body of grenadiers are represented to have perished
by the sinking of the floor at the moment they were
endeavouring to remove and save the throne ; and the
Emperor is said not to have abandoned the hope of
extinguishing the flames until he saw the staff of his
standard which surmounted the palace blazing, when he
lost colour for a moment, and exclaimed that it appeared
to be the will of God, and he would no longer hazard
the lives of his officers and subjects in the attempt. He
disappeared for a short time from among his attendants,
who were alarmed at his absence: he had gone into his
private cabinet to collect and secure his private papers,
with a large bundle of which in his hands he then came
out.

There were nearly four thousand permanent occupants
of this immense palace, many of whom were entirely
dependent upon this sanctuary for their means of liveli-
hood. Numbers of young ladies attached to the court
as maids of honour, or in other capacities, have been sud-
denly deprived of all their jewels and little property
and made destitute; several of them, in their extreme
terror, fled from the scene, and were not found again for
forty-eight hours, having taken refuge among their

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 5 1

friends. Much of the most valuable furniture has been
rescued : the Hermitage, which remains untouched ;
the interesting collection of portraits which covered the
walls of the Historical Hall of the Generals was saved
by a regiment of soldiers who devoted themselves to
that particular object ; the crown jewels were early sent
away; the Empress, after her return from the theatre,
went in person and preserved her own jewelry. The
splendid malachite vase, esteemed one of the most pre-
cious articles, resisted by its weight and fastenings the
exertions of sixty men, and was lost No attempt was
made to sever the gorgeous jasper columns which adorned
the saloons of the Empress from the walls, and they are
reduced to power. The estimated loss is fifty millions
of roubles, or ten millions of dollars. Orders have
already issued for the rebuilding, and the Emperor has
said that he will reoccupy the palace next September, —
utterly and absolutely impossible !

I am informed this evening that a new ministerial de-
partment is about to be created, with General Kisileiff at
its head. It is exclusively designed for the government
of the private domain and properties of the crown, which
have latterly been injuriously neglected: a matter of no
inconsiderable importance, when it is recollected that the
Emperor actually owns about eighteen millions of peas-
ants, or one-third of the population of Russia. This
enormous acquisition has been caused by the loans he
made after the French war to the nobles, which being
unpaid were followed by seizures, etc.

1838. January 5. — In the last received number of
Galignanis Messenger^ I perceive among the reported
discussions in the British House of Commons that
Spring Rice, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, defending

52 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the extravagance of the civil list against the attacks of
Mr. Hume, has grossly assailed Mr. Stevenson and
his legation generally, whom he describes as a ^^ gaudy
array of American officers'' at the levees of the Queen.
The insult is so gross and so utterly unwarranted, upon
gentlemen who really sacrifice their own tastes and feel-
ings in order in some degree to adapt themselves to the
rules and costumes of the court, that I think our govern-
ment should notice it. Certainly, were I in London, the
Chancellor of the Exchequer should explain and retract
as publicly as he has insulted, or Lord Palmerston should
know that I would thereafter not again appear at court
except in plain attire.

1838. Ja7iuary 6. — The President's message reached
here to-day. As Congress met on the 4th of December,
and the message could not well have left New York be-
fore the 6th, it has crossed the Atlantic and Baltic in
less than thirty- one days. While on a visit to Count
Nesselrode this evening, I was told by Count Laval,
Count Schimmelpenninck, and Count Nesselrode that
they had received this document. Neither of them,
however, had read it. The American Minister, who
ought to have got it first and would have devoured it
greedily, was obliged to accept a loan of it from one of
these gentlemen.

Agreeably to the note I yesterday received from the
master of ceremonies, Count Woronzow, I was, at two
o'clock to-day, in due form, presented to his Imperial
Highness the Grand Duke Michel, eldest brother of the
Emperor. Mr. Chew accompanied me. Several other
diplomatic functionaries underwent the same process
while I was there. The Grand Duke is seen to advantage
when more closely approached, and impressed me, cer-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 53

tainly, more favorably as to his manners, intelligence, and
personal appearance than he had done before. There was
nothing in our conversation worthy of a memorandum.

1838. January 12. — One of the most beautiful objects
which I have noticed as developed by the frost, in the
scenery of St Petersburg, is the monument of Peter the
Great, in St. Isaac's Square, as it now appears. For two
or three days there has been much fog in the atmosphere,
which, collecting uniformly and gently upon the icy-cold
surface, presents the most splendid creation of frost-work
imaginable. The granite rock, the rearing horse, and
the noble rider, are all equally and purely white. The
shades are finely displayed, and, at a little distance,
viewed with a dark cloud behind, the whole realizes per-
fectly a colossal specimen of the newly-invented medal-
lions. A similar effect is produced upon the Alexandrine
Column, which looks like an unbroken shaft of exquisite
alabaster. The rows of trees, too, in front of the Ad-
miralty and of the Gostenadvor are picturesque beyond
description.

1838. January 13. — This is the New- Year's Day of
Russia, and an active interchange of personal civilities
takes place. Cards are sent to all one's acquaintances.

The Court convened at the Palace of the Hermitage
at twelve o'clock, to celebrate, agreeably to my note and
invitation, the anniversary of the birth of '^Her Highness
Helen'* The ceremonial is one deemed peculiarly high
and important, and the occasion rallies all the Court, all
the civil functionaries, and all the military officers, to-
gether with all the maids of honour, to the presence of
the sovereigns. I made it a point to reach the palace-
door punctually at the hour designated, accompanied by

the secretary of the legation. It was instantly obvious

54 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

that the vast basement accommodations of the Winter
Palace were no longer to be had. The door, though not
obstructed, was flanked by throngs of liveried servants,
whose masters had passed in, and the stairway was equally
crowded. On my name being announced, an attendant,
dressed fancifully as a highlander, presented himself as
our guide, opened the mass of human beings in our way,
and marshalled us through two lines of richly-apparelled
gentlemen and officers, along an extensive corridor hung
with the finest paintings, until we reached the saloon
appropriated for the meeting of the foreign Ministers.
On entering, I found the corps diplomatique assembled,
with the exceptions of Prince Butera and Count Schim-
melpenninck, who, however, soon appeared. We were
all in full costume, and Counts Nesselrode and Woron-
zow were with us. A folding-door at the extremity of
the room, opposite to where we had come in, being
suddenly thrown wide, we were gratified by beholding
an immense array of ladies of honour, dressed in the
rich and gorgeous national costume which has been pre-
scribed by the present Empress. The apartment in which
they stood was large and beautiful, and they moved
about with ease, and thus exhibited their fine figures
and finer ornaments to entire advantage. The trains
were mostly of crimson, purple, or light-blue velvet,
embroidered in gold or silver, and dragging about two
yards upon the floor. The head-dress was a variation
of the ordinary Russian nurse's cap, a peculiarity in
attire which was very becoming; it was composed of
every kind of material, and of all varieties of colour.
Diamonds, pearls, emeralds, topaz, etc., jewelry of all
descriptions, seemed to have been showered upon each
of the ladies. We arranged ourselves in a sort of semi-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 55

circle, with the Austrian Ambassador at the head, and
according to the rank of seniority. Our secretaries stood
behind us respectively, and soon the approach of the
Emperor and Empress from the interior of the palace
and through the splendid saloon before us was felt. The
gentlemen of the bedchamber, with coats covered with
gold embroidery, white buckskin pantaloons, shoes and
buckles, and chapeaux and gloves, first moved by us in
a throng of about two hundred, going out at the opposite
door, and halting at the entrance. Then came the high
officers of ceremony, Litta, Laval, Narischkin, etc., with
their appropriate attire and insignia, who ranged them-
selves on our left, by the side of Nesselrode and Woron-
zow. These were immediately followed by the Grand
Duchess Helen, wife of the Grand Duke Michel, the
Grand Duchesses Marie and Olga, and their two younger
nieces, daughters of the Grand Duke Michel, who, in a
line fronting us, stationed themselves on our right, the
Grand Duchess Helen being within easy speaking dis-
tance of Count Ficquelmont. Following these Imperial
ladies were the Grand Duke Michel and the Grand Duke
Heir, who, as they entered, turned a little to the left, and
left the way clear for the Emperor and Empress. As
their Majesties entered, we all bowed, first to the lady,
and then to the monarch, and the former advanced to
the Austrian, offered her hand for the usual kiss, and
conversed for a few moments. She was victoriously
equipped : her train of sky-blue velvet, embroidered with
silver flowers to the depth of two feet, was protected and
occasionally adjusted by two pages, who followed her in
the garb of young lieutenants ; her cap, in shape and
meaning like that worn by the maids of honour, was
decorated by rows of enormous pearls and diamonds.

56 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

and appeared to be of cherry-coloured satin ; her gown
was of pink satin, richly embroidered in gold ; and her
necklace, bracelets, rings, etc., were brilliant in propor-
tion. As soon as she left the Ambassador, the Emperor
advanced to him, shook hands cordially, and talked with
animation. His dress was that of a general, unincum-
bered by glitter ; his coat green, his epaulettes gold, his
pantaloons white buckskin, fitting tight to the skin, and
his boots, long hussars, eclipsing Day and Martin by
their polish. On these occasions, the sovereigns pass
slowly down the line of diplomats, addressing each as
they like in succession. When my turn came, I kissed
the hand of the Empress, and expressed my gratification
at perceiving that her summer travels had improved her
health. She said they had on the whole, but just now
she felt exceedingly unwell ; that she had not recovered
the shock of the conflagration, and was utterly unfit to
go through the labours of the day ; that, according to
established rule, she would be obliged to receive and
shake hands with about four thousand persons, and, being
then scarcely able to stand from faintness, how was she
to get along ? I told her she really looked very diflfer-
ently from what she felt, and expressed my sincere
regret ; but that perhaps the delight her presence would
inspire might react upon herself and give her strength
and spirit for the scene. The Emperor shook me by the
hand, and at once asked me why I had not been at
Count Woronzow's party on Thursday ; that he had seen
Mrs. Dallas and my daughters there, but looked in vain
for me. I told him that I had gone, unfortunately for
me, too late ; that I had been occupied (as in truth I had
been in preparing for all the emergencies that might
arise on my interview with Count Nesselrode) until past

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. $y

eleven o'clock ; but that, had I been aware that I should
have met his Majesty, no engagement should have de-
tained me. He said, with a smile, " The plain truth is,
you are more fashionable than I am." The Empress
spoke to me in English, the Emperor in French. After
completing the semicircle, and being then by the door,
they both turned round, gave a salutation to the corps
generally, and left the room, their attendants all follow-
ing. And then came, in one splendid and prolonged
sweep, with a magnificence of rustle and smile altogether
overwhelming, the whole cavalcade of maids of honour,
giving to us a rare and surpassing review. When the
door closed, we were at liberty to depart, and I hastened
to my carriage, eager to reach home and divest myself
of my stiff uniform.

In the evening we went en masse to a ball given by
Mrs. Harder, the married daughter of Baron Steiglitz.
The ladies returned home before midnight, resolved not
to invade their Sabbath ; but at one o'clock in the morn-
ing I carried off Mr. Chew to the masquerade at the Great
Russian Theatre, and continued there, without amuse-
ment except such as is afforded by an idle, motley,
musical, and strolling crowd.

1838. January 15. — Countess Laval's first ball was
to-night, and we repaired to it. Her magnificent dwell-
ing expanded still farther than I ever noticed it before :
a new series of splendid rooms was opened in addition
to those .heretofore described, and ended in a vast dancing-
saloon, with superbly arched ceiling, lighted by two im-
mense bronze chandeliers and side candelabras — wax
candles in all. No supper ; but a large apartment with
two tables kept loaded all the evening with refreshments.

Card-tables innumerable, and all occupied.

58 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1838. January 18. — La Fete des Rois^ and the conse-
cration of the Neva under a pavilion opposite the Hermi-
tage and through a hole cut in the ice, performed by the
Emperor. We started to witness the proceedings at half-
past eleven in a crowded carriage, and drove at once upon
the frozen river, and within two hundred yards of the
pavilion. It was thronged with priests in their sump-
tuous garments, and with military officers who brought
their respective banners to be dipped in the holy flood.
All present stood uncovered while mass was being per-
formed. The vast multitude collected for the occasion
could not be less than forty thousand in number, and
those gathered immediately round the scene of conse-
cration, and in a compact mass upon the ice, I presumed
to be about twenty thousand.

1838. January 19. — At noon went to the Emperor's
private Palace of Annitchkoff, high up the Ncvskoi
Prospekt, and was in due form presented to his Imperial
Highness, Monseigneur the Grand Duke Czarovitz Heir,
with whose fine form, soft countenance, and unaffected
good manners I was highly prepossessed. His destiny is
a striking one, but I should much question his possessing
the bold and resolute qualities of the will, as well as the
active intellectual ones, without which he must be a sad
and uncertain successor to his father. We were intro-
duced by Count Woronzow, who seems to limit his ser-
vices as grand maitre des ceremonies personally to the
Emperor, Empress, and heir. Mr. Milbanke preceded me,
and I was followed by Count de Rantzau, Baron Seebach,
Marquis de Carrega, Count de Sersay, charge d'affaires,
and by Mr. Chew, Counts Chazelle, D'Archaic, Gerard, and
D'Appony, as secretaries and attaches. The whole thing
was over in less than an hour after quitting my home.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 59

Apprised by De Sersay that our diplomatic set of ice
hills at the country residence of Count Laval were ready,
I drove Phil and my daughters forthwith to visit them.
We were all delighted with the amusement. Two par-
allel and nearly adjoining straight platforms of beauti-
fully clear and smooth ice, formed of distinct but insep-
arably united blocks of uniform width and depth, run in
opposite directions for perhaps two or three squares, and
rise gradually at their opposite extremes fifty or sixty
feet high into the upper chambers of two fanciful pavil-
ions : the line separating the plains is a mound of soft
and clean snow, of sufficient elevation to prevent it being
easily surmounted in the progress of the sport, and the
outer boundaries are similarly composed. Very small
and exquisitely neat and showy sledges are employed,
with runners generally of polished steel, and with light
and narrow cushions of differently coloured velvet, or
worked worsted, or red morocco; each accommodates
two persons, and a lady may seat herself in front of a
gentleman, with her feet a little lifted and pointed the
course she is going : the start from the pavilion is pre-
cipitous, and, of course, requires no external impetus;
the velocity is extreme during the greater part of the
transit ; the course is governed by the gentleman, whose
hands are covered with thick, stuffed gloves or gauntlets,
and who, leaning a little back, by the slightest touch
upon the ice guides the vehicle with the nicety and pre-
cision which characterize the effect of a rudder upon a
skiff; the sledge is arrested gently or abruptly, according
to the skill of its manager, at the end of the plain and
at the foot of the other pavilion, into which the parties
mount by a stairway with their feathery apparatus, and
taking a fresh start in the reverse direction shoot back

6o DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

to the foot of the pavilion whence they first issued. The
going and return may occupy two or three minutes, and
seemed to be accompanied with great exhilaration and
delight to the voyagers. The cold was severe, and we
had somewhat too much wind ; but my children, who
immediately and fearlessly engaged in the excitement,
were much pleased. There is no real danger, though
awkwardness and failure in the descent may cause vexa-
tion, as they give rise to loud mirth in the spectators.

1838. January 20. — Went to the ice-hills, but the
weather was too cold and windy for the amusement

Dined at the Austrian Ambassador's. Met there the
Coimtess des Champs and her nephew, Baron Palmstjerna,
Baron Seebach, Colonel Terchky, who leaves for the Cau-
casus in two days, Count D'Appony, Kaiserfeldt, and two
other officers whose names I do not know. Madame
Hitroff took the seat of her absent hostess, whose ill
health will not permit her to be at table. Madame Hit-
roff is the daughter of the illustrious Kutusoff, who re-
sisted and defeated the invasion of Napoleon in 1812-13.
She bears a striking resemblance to her father, but is
not handsome enough to be recognized as the mother
of Countess Ficquelmont.

1838. January 23. — Dined at Baron Palmstjerna's,
the Swedish Minister's, meeting the Austrian Ambassa-
dor, the Wiirtemberg do., the Dutch do., and a number
of Russian gentlemen, among whom I knew only Baron
Brunoff, Count Woronzow, Mr. Narischkin, the two
brothers Prince Dolgorouky and Prince Dondankoff
Korsakoff In the course of conversation, the Austrian
told us an animated anecdote of his crossing the Alps
on a particular occasion, just after the road on which he
was travelling had been completely overwhelmed by an

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 6 1

extensive avalanche; that the peasantry perceived that
it would be an almost endless job to remove the snow
by hauling in carts, and therefore resolved to tunnel it ;
and in fact had cut a sqUare avenue directly through a
distance of two hundred feet, that his coachman drove
straight forward, and that his caliche, being an inch or
two higher than the excavation, peeled off with great
regularity from the top that quantity of snow, so that he
was completely buried in his own vehicle when he
emerged from the tunnel. He says modes of directing
avalanches, so as to make them in their fall project
beyond and pass over the traveller, have been success-
fully employed of late years.

At half-past seven, I repaired to Count Nesselrode's,
with Mrs. Dallas and Julia. It was a grand and select ball
to the Imperial family, and the early hour of meeting
was designated to suit the health and medical advisers
of the Empress. The two sovereigns, with their son the
heir, and the Grand Duchess Marie, and the Grand Duke
Michel, arrived at about eight, and when the company
had, in expectation, collected in the dancing-room. They
instantly on entering led off a polonaise, the Emperor
with Countess Nesselrode, the Empress with the Austrian
Ambassador, and all who could procure walking partners
joined the procession, which wound its way through the
suite of apartments twice or thrice. I first led Countess
Schimmelpenninck and then Countess Laval. The Em-
press formed a cotillon at the head of the room, and
danced repeatedly with much apparent spirit and enjoy-
ment. She participated also in the frolic and waltzing
of the mazurka at the end of the evening. The cordial
manner in which both the Emperor and Empress ad-
dressed me, and the length of time each remained speak-

62 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

ing to me, seemed to produce quite a sensation in the
crowded and brilliant circle, to whom I was but partially
known, and to whom my plain blue coat and white cravat
must have appeared singularly unattractive. The Em-
peror, among other ways of indicating his disposition,
raised his voice several keys louder than usual, and said to
me, " You are the first gentleman that has ever induced
me thus publicly to speak English. I hope you will now
undertake to teach me, by frequent conversations, how
to speak it well." " With all my heart," was my reply,
" though you really speak it so distinctly and correctly
already, that I have little or nothing to teach. I will,
however, undertake anything, in order to be frequently
honoured by your attention." Shortly after this inter-
view, the Grand Duke crossed one of the longest rooms,
came directly up to me, and shook hands. He said he
had met me the day before yesterday, while he was in
a sledge, and I on the English Quay, and that I had not
recognized him. " How is it possible for me, an utter
stranger, to know you when, without a single attendant,
you drive along like any private person, muffled up com-
pletely in your cloak and covering your face from the
cold? As soon as you lifted your hand, and thus in
some degree uncovered your face, I hope your Highness
perceived that I knew you instantly." *' No doubt, no
doubt. The truth is, I prefer moving about without
escort. I think we are the only reigning family in Eu-
rope who attempt it. It is impossible for me, as a mili-
tary man, to leave off my uniform, and to divest myself
of these tell-tale ornaments (epaulettes and orders), but
I should like to avoid the notoriety consequent upon
them." The Empress asked me as to the personal ap-
pearance of the Queen of England, saying, " I hope she

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 63

will be great, for she cannot be beautiful. A queen must
be tall. A short queen is unfortunate."

All the diplomatic body were present, the Austrian
alone in his uniform. Mr. Milbanke treats the Canada
affair as a light matter, already ended. I told him he
was too sanguine ; there was obviously greater concert
and enthusiasm among the insurgents than he imagined.
" But what can they do ?'' said he. " They have no army,
and, as soon as spring comes, we shall have a force of
twenty thousand men there." " That," said I, " will be
both very expensive and very formidable." He was
obviously not well informed as to the character of the
Canadian population, nor as to the measures of his own
government to repress the insurrection, and was drawing
upon that delightful braggadocio confidence with which
Englishmen, in everything and everywhere, anticipate and
predict the success of their country.

Our supper, at half-past eleven, was as rich, recherche^
and gorgeous as possible. Prince Narischkin told me
that he had himself purchased at Paris the golden and
malachite ornaments of the table, and had given ninety-
five thousand roubles for them. He subsequently sold
them to the Emperor, who gave them for the use of his
Vice-Chancellor.

1838. January 31. — We went to the ball of Princess
Beloselsky at half-past seven. The Imperial family
were all there. The exterior of the house in the first
story was illuminated by innumerable lamps. Four
hundred and fifty guests were accommodated at the
supper-table. The magnificence of the whole scene is
indescribable. The stone staircase, branching off at the
first landing and leading to the second story, was, in its
vastness, ornaments, and style, worthy of the splendour

64' DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

to which it introduced one. After the company had
collected in what seemed to be an endless suite of draw-
ing-rooms, another suite, embracing an immense picture-
gallery, was thrown open for dancing, and finally, beyond
this, another and still more noble series were displayed
for supper. The picture-gallery contained many very
fine originals, especially of the schools of Correggio and
Annibal Carracci, and one, Judith with the Head of
Holofernes, by Andrea del Sarto, particularly struck me.
Numbers of the subjects were too indelicate, and ought
to have been removed on this occasion. Suffering as I
did during the whole evening with a pain and fever in
my head, I felt no disposition to partake in the gayety
around me, and less to converse : my chief occupation
was, therefore, in examining the paintings and statuary.
In the apartment appropriated to engravings, of which
the collection in portraits is extensive and remarkable, I
was surprised agreeably by seeing one of Trumbull's of
the Battle of Bunker's Hill. While musing silently and
in a retired niche, I was agreeably surprised by the Em-
peror's coming to me, shaking hands, and then leaning
against the wall as if disposed to a little chit-chat. I
asked him, in allusion to what took place between us at
Count Nesselrode's, whether he was ready to take his
first lesson in English. He said he hoped to benefit by
frequent conversations with me, and repeated emphati-
cally the assurance that I was the only gentleman by
whom he had ever been induced to speak the language
publicly. I expressed myself highly flattered. He then
asked what I thought of the state of things in Canada,
and intimated that he had heard of my doubting whether
the insurgents had among them a single man competent
to lead them. He obviously referred to my interview with

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 65

the Vice-Chancellor. I asked him whether my opinion
had not already been confirmed by the last intelligence ?
as Papineau, Brown, Mackenzie, and Nelson seemed to be
all flying, after having betrayed the cause to which they
were attached by mutual jealousies, and by precipitate
demonstrations easily put down. Still, I thought the
matter was not ended, as the public meetings which
took place on the American frontier in my own country
indicated a greater confidence in the rebellion than I
could explain, while the measures and language of the
English governor manifested strong apprehensions of a
protracted, if not desperate, struggle. Besides, in Lon-
don, Lord John Russell seems to have no idea that the
afiair is over, but, on the contrary, is preparing quite a
formidable army for immediate shipment. The Emperor
said that it was neither his temper nor his policy to
rejoice in the misfortunes of other countries, even though
they might be supposed beneficial in their tendencies to
the interests of Russia; but, added he, almost in the
very words repeating the sentiment he uttered when I
presented my letter of credence at Peterhoff, if the
mother-country will act oppressively and unjustly to-
wards her colonies, they are right to resist. I told him
I thought it would be on the whole the better policy for
England to consent to the separation and independence
of Canada. " But where then is she to get her timber ?"
" From the Baltic," I replied. " Yes," he said, " she might,
but perhaps not of such good quality, nor as cheap."
This drew my mind to his fleet off" Cronstadt, and I
hazarded the remark that I should like to see those fine-
looking ships of his out in the Atlantic. " Why," he
replied, " I will probably send some of them there; but
really I am charged in all directions with such ambitious

66 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

projects and such mischievous designs, that I am averse
to do anything that, in the slightest degree, might
countenance these imputations." '' Send a small squad-
ron to visit us," said I, ** in the United States. I assure
you we shall give them a most cordial welcome." " I
should like to do so," he answered, "and think I will send
one or two ; but my men, who make such good soldiers,
make poor sailors." " Give them, or some of them," I
observed, " the opportunity of good long voyages and
of a bold sea, and they will rapidly improve." The
Emperor then invited me to accompany him, as soon
as the opening of the navigation in the spring would
permit it, on a visit to his Baltic fleet; an invitation
which I, of course, accepted. I forgot to record that
when he adverted to the accusations commonly made
against him, I interrupted him, as apologizing for them
in some degree, with the remark, " But, then, you are so
powerful, that you naturally inspire jealousy." " Yes,"
he said, " we are powerful ; only, however, for defence,
not for attack ;" and he seemed anxious that he should
express this last idea distinctly, for he quit English, for
an instant, to give it in French.

I became this evening personally acquainted with Count
Cherchineff, the Minister of the Department of War.
He is said to be distinguished by great ability and
energy. His figure is tall and stout and well propor-
tioned; his head and face rather small; his hair, eyes,
and moustaches peculiarly black; and his complexion
somewhat pallid. His department exacts infinite labour.
I told him that we had repeatedly interchanged visits
and cards without meeting, and that I had ascribed it to
his incessant engagements. He said I was right; that
such an empire as this, with such a military system, re-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 67

quired inconceivable exertion, especially with an Emperor
who entered into all the details of business. " For in-
stance," said he, " here I am at midnight, but I must be
up at five in the morning, and miist meet the Emperor at
nine. I have been eleven years in my present post, and
can't tell how I live through it all !" I should presume
him to be about fifty.

It would seem as if my journal were to be taken up
with the descriptions of entertainments and conversa-
tions at them. This is not surprising when the season
is recollected, and when it is also borne in mind that
matters of information are almost inaccessible here
except in the manner described.

1838. February 3. — The soiree and ball of Count
Koutchilieff-Besborodko took place to-night. We went
there before ten o'clock. He is a widower and the son
of Chancellor Besborodko, remarkable for his desire
and exertions to collect choice furniture ; and truly the
house contained rich specimens of his taste in abun-
dance ; some of the bronze pieces and many of the paint-
ings are admirable. The suite of rooms is extensive
and attracted general curiosity. The stairway, formed
of inclined planes, not steps, especially adapted for the
safety of children and winding to the upper stories by a
series of light square galleries, was novel and beautiful.

I played a game of chess with Countess Laval, and
was after a long and interesting fight beaten by a king,
knight, and pawn. The Prince of Oldenburg was civil
enough to have himself introduced to me without for-
mality. He is a prepossessing young man, lately mar-
ried to a niece of the Emperor, with a Danish countenance,
projecting nose, light flaxen hair, large blue eyes, and
delicate complexion ; his height is below the ordinary one.

68 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

We hurried home early in order to avoid a breach of
the Sabbath.

1838. February 7. — ^We dined with Mr. and Mrs.
Hodgson at half-past five, and at eight rose from the
table, leaving our entertainment partly unfinished and a
numerous company, in order to be early enough at Count
Levachoff's, where the Imperial family were to be present.
We reached the count's, and were ascending the stair-
way when the Emperor and Empress and Grand Duchess
Marie overtook us. So that we just saved our distance.
We got home pretty well tired of our day's exploit at
one o'clock in the morning.

I played chess with Count Litta, the crack performer
of the highest circles here, and beat him. This at once
establishes my reputation ; it does more ; it affords me a
resource at these soirees much better than the one of
gambling at whist, to which I am so generally persuaded,
and to which the lack of something to kill time with
strongly tempts me. The extent to which gambling is
carried with this sober game of whist is surprising. One
gentleman of the diplomatic corps told me that he fre-
quently played for twenty thousand roubles a game, and
that last year he lost about eighty-five thousand roubles.
Ecarte, too, is constant, and I have noticed many thou-
sands changing owners at this sport in the course of fif-
teen minutes. At large entertainments twenty or thirty
card-tables may be readily counted, — all actively going.
I have, however, noticed but one disagreeable scene of
conflict, and that ended tranquilly and liberally.

1838. February g, — A prevalent disease here, among
ladies particularly, is the tic-douloureux. It is ascribable
to the severity of the climate and to the habit of exposure.
Its origin is a cold. One of the most distressing cases

AT THE COURT OJ' THE CZAR. 69

now attracting general sympathy is that of the young,
beautiful, and universally admired Ambassadress of Aus-
tria, Countess de Ficquelmont. She has for some years
been subject to it. Her recent attacks, however, are
appalling in their severity. The complaint has lodged
in her throat and jaws, and she is utterly disabled from
swallowing. She has now for eight days been lying on
her back, her mouth open, her eyes sunk, and incapable
of taking sustenance, of speaking, or of sleep. Latterly,
strange to say, but I have it from the indubitable testi-
mony of Mr. Kaizervelt, the secretary of the embassy, she
has for three nights in succession avoided the paroxysm
by animal magnetism ; as she feels the prefatory agitation,
she writes a direction for the physician, who immediately
attends and magnetizes her short of the point of sleep.
She has tried all other remedies in vain, nor is it sup-
posed that this of magnetizing does more than assuage
the nerves ; cure seems to be hopeless unless she is taken
to Italy, the country of her youth and of warmth.

1838. February 16. — ^The splendid ball and supper of
Count Woronzow, at which he entertained the Imperial
family, opened this evening at half-past seven o'clock.
Opposite the door, on the River Neva, and extending
the whole width of the house, was an illuminated scaf-
folding, hung with innumerable lamps. The apart-
ments were numerous and brilliant beyond any former
entertainment we have witnessed at this nobleman's;
and his guests in greater crowds and more showy equip-
ments. The company of Horse-Guards officers ap-
peared in their fullest costume of scarlet and white, and
the uniforms generally were particularly studied in honour
of the birthday of one of the Emperor's sisters. The
chief supper-room, oval in its form, was arranged with

70 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

elegance and taste. I should presume that there were
plates laid for at least five hundred.

I very soon heard, in the course of the evening, the
intelligence, which has reached here through the Berlin
Gazette^ in relation to the attack made by Sir F. Head
upon the Canadian insurgents on Navy Island in the
Niagara River, his having routed them, and his having
pursued an American steamboat, which was said to be
engaged in their service, killed her crew within our juris-
diction, set her on fire, and allowed her to drift over the
falls. The incident is a stirring one, and is regarded here
as involving an outrage upon the sovereignty of the
United States, which cannot be overlooked. There is
obviously a general dislike of English policy and pre-
tension, and everything is eagerly caught at to fan a
quarrel with her. It is impossible, however, without
humiliation, to submit to the proceeding of Sir F. Head.
The killing of such of our citizens as joined the insur-
gents on Navy Island is certainly no cause of complaint ;
the destroying of the steamboat, if she were engaged in
the same service, was an act perfectly justifiable, even if
she had the impudence to hoist the American flag within
the limits of British Canada, and Navy Island is within
them ; the Governor had a full right to murder, burn,
sink, and destroy without incurring any responsibility
towards any other nation. The point then merely is —
but it is a vast and vital point — that he did not confine
himself to the boundaries of Canada, but pursued the
insurgents into our limits, and there inflicted the punish-
ment he might well have inflicted on Navy Island. He
had no right to follow his criminals — his alleged traitors
and rebels — on to our jurisdiction. He has violated our
territory^ and thus inflicted upon the United States as

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 7 1

gross an insult and as great a national wrong as it was
in his power to inflict. I trust the patriotism of my
fellow-citizens has shown itself even without waiting for
the action of the national government ; but I feel quite
sure that, however averse we may be to war, the admin-
istration and Congress will be prompt in vindicating the
honour and security of the country. Some analogy may
be conceived to exist between this conduct of Governor
Head and that of General Jackson, when, in 18 18, he
pursued the Seminole Indians into Florida. The cases
are, however, very different, and principally in this feat-
ure. Spain had expressly stipulated by treaty to per-
vent, by force, any Indians within her territory from
committing any outrage, invasion, or war upon the ad-
joining territory of the United States : she distinctly,
after remonstrance, admitted her inability to fulfil this
stipulation, and that her power was inadequate to control
the savages ; we were, therefore, driven by the necessities
of self-defence to do what Spain had engaged but was
unable to do. We crossed the line only after in vain
invoking the Spaniard to perform his covenant, and after
repeated proofs that as fast as the Seminoles were beaten
back into Florida, and our soldiery retired, they would
recruit their strength, and return to renew on our soil
their butcheries. Nothing of this sort extenuates the
proceeding in Niagara River. We have never stipulated
to prevent our citizens engaging in any enterprise they
please out of our limits. We have never stipulated to
surrender traitors or criminals on demand, and if we had,
no demand was made for them, and it was clearly not
necessary to the self-defence of Governor Head that he
should chase a boat within our waters, and then destroy
her and her crew.

72 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1838. February 17. — Went at half-past ten to a masked
ball at the " Assemblee de la Noblesse," and remained
without being entertained till near one o'clock in the
morning. Nothing can be more stupid. The Emperor
and Grand Duke Michel, and it was said some of the
Imperial ladies, were present. The ease and fearlessness
with which the first moved about showed how little he
apprehended hostility towards his person. I remained
though I did not go alone.

1838. February 20. — The carnival commenced yester-
day. This morning I rode around the Champs de Mars,
a large vacant square by the summer gardens, in which
have been erected all the temporary buildings usual at
this season for the amusement of the people. Hereto-
fore these structures were put up in the square fronting
the Admiralty ; but it was thought on the present occa-
sion that the sight of the ruins of the Winter Palace would
mar the popular pleasures. Neat ice-hills have been pre-
pared, flying-horses, swinging-geese, booths for jugglers,
houses for theatres, and the exhibition of wild beasts and
tumbling. I went too early and found nothing doing.
Adjourned, therefore, to the Imperial Library, situated
on the Nevskoi Prospekt, between the Alexandrine
Theatre and the Gortenadvor. The locale is fine,
and the arrangement internally admirable. Everything
seems in capital order, as if not frequently disturbed.
We walked slowly through the apartments, and were
struck with the quantity of volumes assigned to the
department of Russian literature. It probably is more
bulky than valuable. All agree, the Russians them-
selves, that their language is yet in its rude state, and
but imperfectly understood. Another room was crowded
with Latin works, and is exceedingly precious to the eye

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 73

of a scholar. We looked through its shelves, and occa-
sionally examined a volume with great interest. Some
of the editions are equally rare and ancient ; one of Pliny
was printed in 1483, only thirty-four years after Guten-
berg is supposed to have put the art in full operation at
Mentz, and it certainly looks as well executed as the
ordinary books of the present day are. We were so
much taken up by this collection that we had no time
to do more than examine some rare manuscripts, with a
great mass of which, of extreme interest, this library has
been enriched. I noticed about fifty folios bound in red
morocco, which contained autographic correspondence
of European sovereigns and ministers during the last
eight hundred years. Finding that our curiosity was
intent, one of the persons attached to the institution
addressed us in French, and politely offered to exhibit
some of the rarest morceaux. He put before us a small
collection, most carefully secured and protected, of the
original letters of Queen Elizabeth, of England ; and
assuredly I feasted for a while on the character of her
writing and the emphasis of her signature; one auto-
graph letter of Richard the Third, the crookback tyrant,
several of Charles the First, who was paving his way to
the block, and a number of James the First. He then
showed us some beautiful illuminated manuscripts, among
which that which attracted us most was the prayer-book,
in Latin, of Mary Queen of Scots, with her own signa-
ture on the first page, and with many couplets of French
poetry written by her in the occasional blank spaces;
here and there, too, she had made her visitors write
their names, and the signatures of Essex and N. Bacon
were conspicuous. The tone of her rhymes indicated
that they were composed while in prison. The pictures

74 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

with which the book is embeUished are numerous and
glowing. In this same department we observed a col-
lection of instruments for writing in glass cases — from
the reed to the stile and the pen, and from the dry, broad
grass to the papyrus and bark in all their modifications.
Two fine full-length portraits of the Emperor Alexander
adorn the opposite extremities of the library, importing
that he actively and liberally contributed to its advance-
ment The number of volumes, General Alenine, the
director, informed me, was about four hundred thousand.
It must be visited again and again and again before it
can be justly appreciated.

1838. February 2\, — In the evening we repaired to the
ball of Madame Boutourlin at about nine. The Emperor
and the two Grand Dukes, Heritier and Michel, came in
the course of the night: the first danced a quadrille with
our hostess. After shaking hands, I expressed myself
pleased to see that he still danced. He said he was too
old, but that an old sentiment of attachment to the lady
had got the better of him. " Certainly not too old," said
I, " because you are several years younger than myself,
and have not got one of the gray hairs by which I am
surmounted." " Yes," he replied, " my hairs are gray, —
the few I have, — and this (pulling the curls on top) is a
perruque." The rooms opened were numerous and fur-
nished beautifully. The pride of the owner lies in his
collection of paintings, which he bought in Italy, and
some of which are exquisite. I think his Titian, Christ
bearing His Cross, over the large sofa of a deep crimson
satin saloon, very much the finest I have seen in Russia,
and worthy to be a companion of the same subject by
Carlo Dolce which I saw at Stratton Park, Sir Thomas
Baring's. A marble head of a satyr by Michael Angelo

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 75

was arranged for great eiTect, and attracted much notice,
but did not equal my expectations of that master : it may
be the very head which he copied when but sixteen years
of age, and which elicited so much applause as a promise
of genius from contemporaries.

On conversing, to-day, in terms of admiration of some
of the things I had seen at the Imperial Library, Count
Lerchenfeldt informed me that many, if not most, of
them had been obtained from the libraries of Polish
nobles whose estates had been confiscated. I had noticed
a Polish name in many of the volumes.

1838. February 22. — Dined at Mr. Sebastian Cramer's.
Met Admiral Hamilton, General Ovender, and Mr. Pe-
zanovius, with others. The dinner was execrable. A
dancing-party assembled at ten. We left them at half-
past ten, and repaired to Princess Butera*s. Nothing
more beautiful, rich, and tasty than her salon of cut
crimson velvet tapestry, with white and gold chairs and
settees, splendid mirrors and lustres.

1838. February 23. — Thermometer remains the same,
and the temperature in the middle of the day agreeable
to a rapid walker. At about noon I went on foot with
Philip in search of amusement, which, during carnival,
seems to be pursed by all Russians, high and low, with
untiring assiduity. We first made our way to the Great
Theatre, and found it crammed so as to be wholly inac-
cessible. We then hastened to the French Theatre, or
Theatre Michel, and that also was full to overflowing.
As a dernier ressort we proceeded to the Champs de
Mars, intending to look into all the booths and frames
devoted to popular gayety. We got into the temporary
circus, after paying an enormous price for admission, and,
having waited in the cold for half an hour, were content

y^ DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

with the first appearance of the wretched troop of riders
and hurried out. The ice-hills attracted our attention
for a short time, and we travelled through the throng of
pedestrians and carriages, but were soon convinced that
the chill of the circus made a rapid walk homeward the
most agreeable proceeding we could adopt.

1838. March 11. — Yesterday, after spending all day in
writing, I repaired, conformably to a card of invitation,
to the Imperial Institute of St. Catherine, which is of
the first distinction as a seminary for the education of
the daughters of the nobility, and over which the Em-
press specially presides as patroness. The triennial ex-
amination and display of the quitting class took place.
It continues for two or three days in succession. Eti-
quette required me to go in full costume. We reached
the place at a little after seven in the evening, and found
the magnificent colonnaded hall filled to overflowing. I
managed to squeeze a pathway, however, through the
dense crowd to a range of front seats secured for the
diplomatic corps. The young ladies, all uniformly
clothed in plain white with broad crimson sashes and
bows, were in number about one hundred and fifty, went
through their exercises of public examination very well,
and then sang and danced with much harmony and
effect, but no beauty or grace.

1838. March 12. — The weather for a week past has
been steadily moderating, and is now beautifully fine.
The thermometer scarcely indicates at any hour during
the day a degree of cold equal to five of Reaumur, and
for a fact, it is doubtful whether a general thaw is not
proceeding even in the shade. In places exposed to the
heat the snow and ice are dissolving.

We went, at seven o'clock, in grand costume, to be

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 77

I received by their serene Highnesses the Prince and Prin-

cess of Oldenburg, who reside in a delightful palace
adjoining the Austrian Ambassador's on the Great Quay.
There was not the customary stiff state. They are a
young couple, married in June last, and apparently happy
in each other. His manners are engaging and plain,
and hers polished and cordial. His figure is devoid of
attraction, — short, and but poorly adjusted, — his hair is
light, his tyQS round and blue, and his nose aquiline.
Her face has much beauty in it, — remarkably fine teeth,
good nose, rich flaxen hair, and clear, large blue eyes.
When she speaks her countenance is lighted up with
smiles and intelligence. We sat down, an unusual cir-
cumstance, and conversed for about half an hour.

1838. March 14. — Weather still improving.

Much faith prevails here in animal magnetism. Having
no belief myself, I was much surprised to hear, this
evening, from Mr. Correa, on whose intelligence and
veracity every reliance must be placed, the incident of
actual personal observation and experience which has
compelled him to credit what he had before totally
repudiated. He was in Germany, and in the neigh-
bourhood of one of the towns witnessed an accident
to a lady with whom he was well acquainted : she was
thrown from her horse, her head severely cut, and she
remained insensible. A physician was sent for, who,
after anxiously examining, was unable to ascertain the
cause of her prolonged insensibility. He proceeded to
magnetize her. Correa, ridiculing, remarked that nothing
could be done that way. " Yes," said the physician ;
** wait a moment, and I will hear what's the matter with
her and how best to treat her." In a short time, though

still apparently lifeless, the lady spoke, directed attention

78 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

to particular wounds, and prescribed in Latin (a language
unknown to her out of the influence of magnetism) the
medicines and apph'cations most suitable for her relief.
" I do not," said Mr. Correa, " ask your belief in this
statement. I never could have believed it had I merely
heard it from another, but I actually witnessed what I
have stated, though I am utterly unable to comprehend
it"

1838. March 17. — Being specially invited, I dined to-
day with " The English Club," an association formed in
1770, which consists now of more than eight-tenths who
are not English, though it embraces all the respectable
merchants and traders of that country residing here.
They are a wealthy society, and seem bent upon enjoy-
ment. About three hundred persons were at table.' It
is the anniversary of their foundation. I had hoped to
have met Marshal Paskevietch, the Prince of Warsaw,
one .of the present race of great men of Russia ; he had
arrived here the day before yesterday, but was not able
to attend. I met Sir James Wylie, who has been eminent
as a physician, and still continues at the head of medical
science in this country. He was chief physician during
Paul's and Alexander's reign to the Court and Army.
He is a hearty, broad-looking Scotchman of more than
sixty-five. The toasts were five: i. Our Master, the
Emperor; 2. The Heir to the Crown, Empress, and all
the Imperial Family; 3. The Prosperity of Russia; 4,
The English Club; 5. The Queen of England.

1838. March 19. — Mrs. Dallas and I at half-past four
repaired to Prince Youssoupoff's to dinner. The estab-
lishment is on the grandest and costliest scale. The
endless range of lofty saloons, the countless paintings
upon the walls, the masterly and exquisite statuary, and

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 79

the numberless servants gorgeously dressed out in green
and silver, with pages having caps and flowing feathers,
altogether overwhelmed one's faculties of admiration. It
redeemed its reputation of being the largest private resi-
dence in St. Petersburg, and far surpassed in splendour
anything I have yet seen. I should suppose there could
not have been less than a thousand paintings of the
various masters, and some of them of immense size.
For two alone, the present Emperor offered two hundred
and fifty thousand roubles, but the sale was declined.
That, however, which riveted my gaze was the noble
piece of sculpture of Canova, Cupid embracing Psyche ;
it was placed in the centre of a circular apartment whose
roof was a dome, and whose walls were tapestried in
glowing scarlet; the effect upon the white marble was
beautiful. Our dinner was all that boundless wealth
could make it. The guests were fifty in number : Counts
Orloff and Woronzow, Prince Mensikoff, Princess Belo-
selsky. Countess Laval, Sherbatoff, Bloudoff, Ministers
of Prussia and Sweden, etc. The dining-hall, of spacious
dimensions, was on one side decorated with family pic-
tures, and on the other with the family plate tastily
arranged in two glass-covered cases, which filled the
whole space, and which, being divided into shelves, ena-
bled one to see every curiously worked piece distinctly,
and to take the whole magnificent service in at one
coup ctceil. The fashion of collecting family plate and
of thus displaying it has recently been borrowed from
England. In a glass mahogany case immediately behind
the seat of our host was preserved the autograph corre-
spondence of Peter the Great. Among other varieties of
the table was a fish which had been brought from a dis-
tance of more than two thousand versts. I observed

8o DIAHy OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

two waiters carrying a porcelain dish about nine feet
long and two wide, and being seated next to my hostess,
I inquired what the monster could be ; it was more than
two yards in length, was of delicate flavour, and tasted to
me like salmon ; its name I forget. When we left: the
dining-room, cards were resorted to by some ; but Mrs.
Dallas and I, after a fresh survey of the paintings and
statuary, and having taken coffee and liqueur, came
home to prepare to accompany our two girls to the
soiree of Countess Laval.

At Countess Laval's, I saw for the first time General
Paskevietch, Prince of Warsaw, the hero of two wars,
Persian and Polish. He was playing whist, and I, there-
fore, declined interrupting him in order to be introduced.
His display of orders and ornaments was brilliant and
unusual.

1838. March 22. — Having determined on purchasing
a carriage and pair of horses, I yesterday traversed
various streets, and found my way at last to the common
horse-market which is about three miles off It was
crowded with animals of all descriptions and preten-
sions. I selected a promising pair of bays, and directed
them to be brought to my house this morning at ten
o'clock. The price asked was a thousand roubles, and
I might probably have got them for seven hundred and
fifty. As a matter of additional precaution, however,
after I had satisfied myself by the opinions of competent
judges as to their age, strength, and soundness, I directed
them to be harnessed to a carriage for trial. They were
put to, but would not budge ; they were unbroken and
wholly unfit for use ! I left the jockey in disgust

1838. March 23. — A fine pair of grays were brought
for my inspection this morning, from an extensive stable

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 8 1

which I visited yesterday. The young man who had
the management of the concern accompanied them. I
had them carefully examined, tried first separately in a
sledge, and then together in a carriage; we were all
much pleased with them, and I bargained for a purchase.
I was asked two thousand three hundred and fifty
roubles. I offered eighteen hundred, and finally it was
agreed that I should have them for nineteen hundred,
and that they should be left with me for three days for
further trial. They were to be warranted sound. I
paid the usual earnest called here hand-money, and
ordered my coachman to put the horses up. The whole
matter being concluded, I prepared to issue forth for the
carriage and other essential adjuncts. When I had
reached the street with my maltre d'hotel^ an old man
suddenly stopped us, and as owner, disclaimed the con-
tract made by his agent, professing himself unwilling to
sell at the price agreed upon. I walked quietly back
into my chancery, while the dispute proceeded in a
language I could not understand. In a short time my
servant brought me the hand-money, saying that the
owner was dissatisfied. I directed him to tell the owner
plainly — for I perceived at once the arrangement between
the principal and the agent to get more money — that he
might take his horses and go the devil ! I again heard
some loud talk in the hall, and opening the door, ordered
my servant to turn the owner, to whom I pointed, in-
stantly out of the house. He immediately perceived
that he was understood and foiled, and begged to receive
back the hand-money and to execute the bargain. My
choler, however, was up, and I felt it to be my turn now
to improve the purchase ; so I peremptorily refused un-
less he accepted my original offer of eighteen hundred

82 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

roubles. He remained in the court-yard some time
hesitating, but finally went away slowly with his horses.
This morning he returned with them, but I did not see
him.

1838. March 25. — Mahlon Dickinson retires from the
Navy Department in June next, owing to the increasing
infirmities of age, and I am wished at home in order to
take his place. Shall I suggest my readiness to obey
any summons to that effect ? There are many reasons
pro and con ; but on the whole I am inclined to believe
that, being now across the Atlantic, I had better remain
tranquil some time longer. If I could persuade myself
to believe that my being in the Cabinet could be useful
to the country or to my political friends, I would not
hesitate upon the sacrifice ; but the appointment may per-
haps be more advantageously given to an Eastern or
a Western man. A Virginian might well be selected.
Woodberry is from the East, Butler from New York,
Forsyth and Poinsett are both Southerners, and Kendale
is Western.

1838. March 31. — We visited the Imperial Manufac-
tory of Mirrors and other Glass, starting at half-past
eleven, and not reaching there, unfortunately, till after
the workmen had broken off and probably gone to their
dinner. The distance is not more than three miles. It
will be necessary to repeat our visit, as we were con-
ducted through the extensive range of buildings, and
were satisfied that in all respects it merits full exami-
nation. We witnessed single processes of making de-
canters and tumblers, of gilding and painting ornamental
pieces, of cooling and grinding smooth, immense plates
of looking-glass, and pressing the quicksilver on the
back, of cutting bottles, etc. The collection of articles

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 83

for sale is neatly and attractively arranged, some of them
very beautiful. We made a small purchase of two table
ornaments of little value, but pretty. I had no servant
with me capable of speaking any language but Russian,
and was therefore wholly at a loss.

Attended the soiree of General D'Opotschinine, and I
was beaten at chess by Count Litta.

1838. April 2. — Two hours of the morning (a remark-
ably bright one) were given to a stroll with Philip
through the gallery of the Hermitage. I remarked
more carefully than heretofore the paintings. The col-
lections of Wouvermans, of Teniers, of Rembrandt, of
Rubens, of Vandyke, and of Snyders, are each numerous
and very fine, that of the last unrivalled. Several of Sal-
vator Rosa, of Guido, and of Murillo are exquisite. The
Raphaels are neither remarkable nor many. The Claude
Lorrains and Carle Vernets are admirable. Some of
Gerard Dow attracted a long gaze. Two mosaics, land-
scapes, more than a foot square, have all the richness,
softness, and delicacy of the most finished paintings, and
are the best things of the kind I ever saw. Some of
Nicholas Poussin are of his highest excellence.

I noticed an immense painting, not hung but arranged
on scaffolding, which was obviously the representation
of a Review by the present Emperor at the head of a
regiment of cuirassiers, either in Vienna or Berlin, — my
ignorance of these two cities will not permit me to de-
scribe which, but I incline to the latter. The figures
were all executed with the precision of miniatures, and
were in number not less than two thousand. They are
probably chiefly likenesses, that of the Emperor a striking
one. The horses are done with inconceivable spirit.
The group of fashionable spectators in the right corner

84 DIARY 01^ GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

of the picture is in itself a delightful study. I must
ascertain the artist by inquiring this evening at Countess
Lavars.

1838. April 7. — The day is kept by the Russians in a
peculiar manner, and apparently for the especial benefit
of children. The Gostenadvor has been surrounded by
booths for vending toys and nicknackeries during the last
three days, and the throng there to-day was great.
Among other things bought and sold are switches of
a shrub I could not recognize, seemingly just vegetating,
and which are said to be accompanied in their use by
good luck to the person flagellated.

1838. April 16. — Agreeably to the notice from the
Grand Master of Ceremonies, I attended the Imperial
Court at the palace of the Hermitage this morning at
noon. The assembly was by no means as brilliant as
the one at the beginning of the new year. The Diplo-
matic Corps were all present, except Count Schimmel-
penninck, who absented himself in consequence of the
scarlet-fever having raged in his family. The Empress
was peculiarly splendid, having on a blue velvet tiara
glistening with immense diamonds in the shape of ears
of wheat, and a train of cloth of gold, deeply bordered
with ermine. She wore also a broad, blue ribbon, em-
blematic of some order. Among the maids of honour I
particularly noticed Marie de Benkendorff and Miss
Lanskoy. The three Grand Duchesses, Marie, Olga,
and Alexandrina, looked exceedingly pale, owing prob-
ably to their protracted fast. So did the Heir Apparent.
A company of soldiers were ranged in one entry, all of
whom were at least seven feet high. The Emperor in-
formed me that he would travel into the central part of
Europe in the course of a month or six weeks, " to take

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 8$

the waters for the benefit of his old years and of his old

woman."

1838. April 20. — A stranger who has not witnessed
can scarcely imagine the ardour with which the lower
classes of this city give themselves during the present
week, immediately following the long Careme, to the
most childish sports. They are encouraged, too, by all
sorts of military and police arrangements. During the
last three days of the week, and particularly in the after-
noon, immense crowds collect at the common rendezvous
in the square fronting the Admiralty, where have been
erected temporary playhouses, circus, jugglers' booths,
menageries, whirligigs of all kinds, flying-horses, swings,
etc. During this afternoon, I should suppose there
assembled no fewer than fifty or sixty thousand people,
and the whole machinery of amusement was in full exer-
cise. The throng of carriages, whose circuits are care-
fully directed and supervised by mounted dragoons, and
whose multitudes and equipments are equally countless
and showy, all in regular and unceasing motion, give to
the coup cTonl the effect of a most magnificent panorama.
The pervading silence forms, however, a forcible and
eloquent contrast to the noise and bustle which would ac-
company such a scene in the United States. Scarcely any-
thing is heard but the sound of the driving carriages, the
bands of music within the theatres, or an occasional wild
and monotonous song from the women who are swing-
ing with great velocity. Real and loud hilarity is not dis-
cernible ; nor, indeed, is it possible to find in any part of
this dense mass the slightest disposition to quarrel or con-
troversy ; the great occupation of those who meet seem-
ing to be, notwithstanding beards, moustaches, whiskers,
and dirt, to exchange kisses on each side of the mouth.

86 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1838. April 22. — The exhibition before the Admi-
ralty has been eminently showy and amusing to-day,
the last of the Carnival. I went with Philip on foot,
while the ladies crowded the carriage. The multitude
exceeded any assemblage I ever before saw; men,
women, and children, all dressed with cleanliness and
finery, and carriages without numbers, most of which were
splendid equipages with four horses and gaudy liveries.
Without the slightest tincture of exaggeration, I should
say that there were collected not less than two hundred
thousand human beings. The usual perfect order pre-
vailed. The carriages, which moved in several regular
lines in front of the space appropriated to diversions,
were divided into as many concentric circles, and pro-
ceeded in a walk ; had they formed in one straight line
they must have extended seven or eight miles. At
about half-past five, when I stood on the terrace of the
Admiralty admiring the spectacle, I noticed the composed
and slow progress of a high military officer on horseback,
in what might be termed the centre aisle between the
rows of carriages ; he was distinguished by a broad blue
ribbon, and was soon joined by another, whom I recog-
nized as the Prince of Oldenburg. There was obviously
now some ceremony preparing, and I waited for it. In
a short time the Emperor, in a brilliant uniform of scar-
let and white, mounted on a fine bay charger, appeared
at one extremity of the aisle, accompanied by the Grand
Duke Michel in a hussar uniform, and the Czarovitz
in scarlet and white, with a throng of about a hundred
aides-de-camp in the same glowing dress ; the cavalcade
passed up to the right extremity at which the Emperor
formed it in a line. The Empress then, with her daugh-
ters, in an open barouche drawn by six grays, with three

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 87

postilions clothed like jockeyS in white satin jackets
with light-blue satin sleeves and white breeches, and
with silk cap and tassel, drove into the aisle and passed
in front of his Majesty, by whom she was formally
saluted ; several carriages followed her with her maids
of honour, and a crowd of officers attended. The glitter-
ing of the uniforms, the nodding of plumes, the rich-
ness of the equipages, the caracoling of the beautiful
horses, and all combined with the immensity of the
crowd, and its universal devotion to amusement and
hilarity, produced an effect altogether beyond descrip-
tion. The Imperial Cortege rode up and down in the
manner I have described several times.

I met the Emperor this morning on the English Quay.
He was alone, stopped, shook me cordially by the hand,
and after a little chat, informed me that he had received
news from Lake Ladoga which rendered it probable
that the ice in the Neva would break away in the course
of two or three days. The weather indeed has been
quite warm, and the wind southerly.

1838. April 25. — I visited Mr. Leiberman, the Prus-
sian Minister, who entertained me with an active and
ardent conversation on the expensiveness of living in
St. Petersburg, and its real cause, — a system of monopoly
and commercial restriction to which the Government so
inflexibly adheres. He described the system of smug-
gling carried on upon the Prussion frontier here as con-
stant and organized, and as continually leading to the most
bloody conflicts between the borderers of the nations.

1838. April 26. — Bets on the departure of the ice in
the Neva are numerous and heavy. The Emperor him-
self gambles on this event. It has been expected to move
for several days, but remains Arm ; and one unacquainted,

88 DIARY OF GEORGE MIIFLIN DALLAS,

as I am, with the effects and operation by which it is
secretly governed, would deem it stationary for ten days
or two weeks more under almost any condition of at-
mosphere.

1838. April 27. — The ball at Count Braniska's was
very brilliant, and attended by all the Imperial family.
We went at eight and got home again at half-past one.
Some of the apartments are beautiful ; those appropriated
to dancing and supping could not be surpassed. The
service of gold on the table at which the Empress sat —
a table that accommodated about twenty persons — was
exquisite in its splendour and workmanship.

1838. April 28. — The ice in the Neva gave way and
started on its downward course at about ten o'clock
to-day. At about five in the afternoon, the usual cere-
mony was performed by the Emperor drinking a tumbler
of the water, filling the tumbler with pieces of gold for
the benefit of the officer who handed it, and ordering
him to cross the river in his barge ; the barge proceeds,
cannon are fired when it is half-way, and again when
over, and thenceforward the people are at liberty to use
their wherries. The intercourse to-day between the city
and the islands was suspended for about eight hours;
between six and seven p.m. but few cakes of ice were per-
ceptible. The bridge of boats was swung on one side at
about noon, and will probably not be restored before
to-morrow morning. I yesterday received a notice from
the Grand Master of Ceremonies of an intention on the
part of the Imperial Court to meet at the Hermitage on
Sunday (to-morrow) at twelve, in celebration of the
birthday of the Czarovitz, who is just twenty; but the
notice has been to-day countermanded by a note from
the same source, without assigning any reason.

AT 7 HE C0UR7 OF 7 HE CZAR. 89

1838. April 29. — The weather was delightfully mild.
The river, entirely free from ice, was again thronged
with the fanciful summer boats. We walked for an hour
in the summer gardens, which were crowded with fash-
ionable visitors.

1838. May 2. — Phil and I strolled towards the Champ-
de-Mars, and had the good luck to meet there, in grand
review and exercise, a body of about fifteen or twenty
thousand cavalry. The Grand Duke Michel was present
in command. Large squadrons went through the oper-
ation of charging at full gallop. The flying artillery
was particularly interesting and exceedingly neat. This
splendid exhibition was unaccompanied by the slightest
noise or curiosity on the part of the population of the
city. Perhaps it is too common to attract them; but
matters of the sort are all arranged in secret ; no news-
papers advertise them ; and after many inquiries, I have
found it impossible to get to know when they take place.

1838. May 3. — This being a Court fete in honour of
the births of the Empress and the Grand Duchess Alex-
andra, I attended at the palace of the Hermitage agree-
ably to notice at twelve o'clock. The presentation was
in all respects very brilliant. In the evening at eight
o'clock we repaired to a Court ball at the same palace.

1838. May 5. — The Emperor reviewed sixty thousand
of his troops in the Champ-de-Mars at twelve o'clock
to-day. We had obtained, through the kindness of Gen-
eral Ovander, accommodations in the military barracks
fronting the scene, and commanded a complete view of
the whole spectacle. Nothing could be finer ; we went
there at about half-past nine o'clock, and were early
enough to witness the earliest preparations and every
successive arrival of force. The parade-ground is a

90 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

square in a level field of about fifty acres, whose surface
is made earth, and which they were engaged with hoses
and engines in watering so as effectually to lay the
dust. By half-past eleven o'clock all the troops occu-
pied their stations, and a large body could not be
arranged on the field, but remained between it and. the
Great Quay. The proportions I should estimate thus, say
forty-five thousand infantry and fifteen thousand cavalry
and light artillery. Their equipments were all in the
finest possible order : the brass cannon, the cuirasses, the
muskets, and the front ornaments of the caps glittered
dazzlingly in the sun. The horses, which in every regiment
were of uniform colour, all of jet black or gray or sorrel
or chocolate or bay, were beautiful without exception,
and constituted perhaps the most striking feature of the
exhibition; every officer was mounted on a charger
equally spirited, graceful, and docile ; the dresses of the
various corps and squadrons were showy and effective.
The Emperor came on the ground accompanied by a
numerous staff, among whom were several military
members of the diplomatic corps — Count Ficquelmont,
Baron Palmstjerna, and Baron Seebach — a little after
twelve o'clock, and cantered along the several fronts,
saluted by a hurrah from every successive regiment,
which he reciprocated by touching his hat. His progress
awoke some fine music from the different bands. When
he had finished, the Empress in an open landau with her
three daughters, drawn by four bays with two postilions,
reviewed the army in the same way. The two sover-
eigns then stationed themselves with their suite at the
centre of one side of the square and the troops marched
by before them. His Majesty was so much gratified by
the manner with which the soldiers performed their duty

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 9I

that he ordered two roubles to be paid to each man.
The precision and neatness of their movements well
deserved this mark of approbation.

1838. May 7. — We started at half-past eight this
morning, accompanied by the Marquis De Carrega and
the Chevalier De Cossati, to visit the manufactories of
glass and of porcelain, and the great cotton, hemp, and
card factories at Alexandrofsky. The first we had visited
on the 31st of March last, and were only additionally
pleased by finding the workmen all at duty. Their
number is four hundred. We failed to see a large mirror
cast, but were gratified by seeing the simple process of
putting the quicksilver upon the glass, and the still
simpler one of making tubes for thermometers. The
porcelain factory was at rest, all hands at dinner, and we
only witnessed the machinery, the models, and some
splendid specimens of the art in the " magazin ;" a small
dessert set of plates with admirable likenesses of emi-
nent Russian officers were for sale at the price of one
hundred and fifty roubles per plate. The chief exploit
of the jaunt, however, was the exploring of the exten-
sive Alexandrofsky factories, which enjoy great repute.
They are ten versts or seven miles from the city, and
constitute a most imposing collection of lofty buildings.
They employ about three thousand hands, male and
female, young and old. A large proportion of these
are free artisans ; the rest are called " children of the
crown," and have been drawn from the foundling hos-
pitals. The entire establishment has for many years
been under the control of an Englishman, General
Wilson, whose second in command is his brother; both
were attentive to us. Several pieces of machinery were
strikingly good ; two steam-engines, one of one hundred

92 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

and ten horse-power, and another of seventy ; a novel
process of carding wool, being two large wheels armed
with several rows of long steel teeth bending somewhat
from the circumference inwards and meeting in their
revolutions so as to feed each other. This apparatus
was introduced from England about eight years ago,
and performs the task which would otherwise occupy
thirty-one persons ; the machinery for making playing-
cards, printing, colouring, polishing, and cutting them,
was exceedingly neat; as was also that for making sail-
cloth and sheeting. We attended while six hundred of
the operators took their dinner in a single wide and
commodious apartment. Of these two hundred and
seventeen were females, all clothed with great tidiness
and seated all at one long table ; — not a redeeming ray
of beauty in the whole assemblage. The fare was good :
corn-beef, soup, millet, and black bread; no vegetables.
The dinner was preceded and closed with a short hymn
decently sung; and every movement of entrance or
departure was characterized by the formality, precision,
and silence of military discipline. Not a word was
uttered during the repast. The Chapel is handsome, —
its walls and ceiling washed with light blue and studded
with golden stars, and it is capable of containing all the
tenants of the factory. Roomy accommodations are
devoted to recreation and to schooling. The bedrooms
are remarkably airy and cleanly. One noble hall
is reserved for occasions of exhibition before the Im-
perial patrons. All the range of structure is fire-proof;
the ceilings are arched with cast-iron, the staircases are
of stone or iron, and the roofs are either tile or iron.
We were detained so long in making the above visits
that we did not get home until half-past two, and I lost

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 93

the opportunity of attending, according to engagement,
at the new Church of St. Isaac, in order to witness the
raising of one of the immense pillars of granite which
are to sustain the great dome.

1838. May 8. — A strong northwesterly wind has
brought down the ice from Lake Ladoga. The river is
crowded with it. The cold has become unpleasant in
consequence, and snow has fallen. As this is the largest
lake in Europe, having a superficies of more than six
thousand square miles, and no outlet for its ice but the
Neva, we must expect the chilling current to continue
for some days. The southwestern extremity of Ladoga
is about thirty miles east of St. Petersburg.

Notwithstanding the obvious danger of crossing the
river while this vast field of ice is driving, the wherries
are plying with great activity and much crowded. The
bridge is necessarily swung on one side, and all com-
munication cut off except by the boats. Many are taken
by surprise, and compelled by the urgency of business
to incur the risk. This afternoon a flat-bottomed wherry,
loaded with seven persons, upset amid the ice, and all
hands perished.

1838. May 10. — Yesterday the river was sufficiently
clear of ice to permit the reinstatement of the bridge ;
to-day, however, a new arrival has cut off the communi-
cation. No passage open yet for navigation between this
and Cronstadt. Our days are becoming long. It was a
clear and rich twilight when we returned from Mrs.
Gillebrand's.

1838. May 13. — This being first of May, Old Style,
is usually signalized by a sort of gay fete at Katarinoff,
about three miles out of town, when a procession of
equipages, headed by some members of the Imperial

94 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

family, go thither, " to meet the Spring," and to parade in
lines around a sort of garden or open park in which' the
multitude are amusing themselves in their own way.
We drove out, found it dull and the weather bad, and
were wholly disappointed.

The Emperor and Czarovitz quit for Berlin this morn-
ing.

1838. May 17. — The ice, in considerable quantities, is
again drifting down the river, but the weather is exceed-
ingly pleasant. The Gulf of Finland, below Cronstadt,
for seventy or eighty versts, is yet an unbroken sheet of
ice. Vessels are said to be in sight waiting for an opening.

Mrs. Cramer's last dance for the season was attended
by all of us. We went at 9.30 in daylight, and returned
at 2.30 in the morning and broad day.

The last of the twenty-four granite pillars on the top
and exterior of the dome of St. Isaac's Church was
placed on Monday last. This completes an undertaking
of considerable skill and hazard. Each of these columns
is forty-two feet in length, four feet nine inches in breadth
at the base, and weighs one hundred and sixty thousand
pounds. The arch on which they rest is one hundred and
sixty feet above the floor of the church. This church will
be adorned in its various parts with not less than one hun-
dred and four of these granite columns, whose combined
weight is estimated at eleven million one hundred and
fifty-six thousand pounds. The highest point of the
edifice, when finished, will be at an elevation of three
hundred and twenty-nine feet. I have marked, almost
daily, the operation of raising these columns. Not the
slightest noise, accident, or confusion occurred at any
time, although the work was sometimes going on when
Reaumur stood at 10°.

A7 THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 95

1838. May 18. — ^The ice, early this morning, came
down the river in large quantities. It interrupts the
intercourse with Vassili-Ostroff seriously. Rumor states
that two Baltic steamers are in the Gulf of Finland, pre-
vented by the ice from reaching Cronstadt

The Austrian Ambassador, Count Ficquelmont, called
to take leave, intending to quit here with his wife to-
morrow morning. He returns, he says, in November :
the Countess will remain in a milder climate for eighteen
months.

The Emperor did not leave Sarsko-Selo until it turned
Tuesday morning last : this owing to the universal Rus-
sian superstition against commencing a journey on Mon-
day. He delayed his departure till a half-hour after
midnight, and then started full gallop.

1838. May 19. — Agreeably to arrangement we pro-
ceeded, at eleven o'clock, to visit the Corps of Marine
Cadets, situated on the quay on Vassili-Ostroff, and super-
intended by the celebrated navigator. Admiral Adam
John de Krusenstern, who performed the voyage around
the globe in 1803-1806. His invitation had been exceed-
ingly kind, and we resolved to be punctual. As the
bridge was not yet replaced, owing to the floating ice,
we occupied two wherries, being accompanied by Mr.
Cossato and Mr. Chew, and by three servants, and were
rowed over rapidly. The Admiral and his two daugh-
ters received us, and we were regaled immediately with
hot chocolate. He would seem to be about seventy-three
or -five years of age, resembles in countenance and figure,
very strongly, our former President Monroe, and is re-
markably unaffected and benevolent in his manner.
While we were sipping chocolate, he drew my attention
to two Chinese paintings which had been sent to him.

96 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

representing the Emperor of China seated in state, with
his great officers about him and ready to give audience.
He had received them via New York, and believed them
the only specimens of Chinese art of that description
which had reached Europe. I could only think them
curious. The next two hours were wholly occupied in
examining the noble institution, of which, after having
been the second Governor during a short period of eight
months, he has now been the chief for more than twelve
years. He led us into all the interesting departments
excepting the Observatory, which he said was too lofty
to be reached by the ladies without great fatigue ; and
he explained everything as he went along with a sim-
plicity and interest which heightened our gratification.
The building is an immense quadrangle, whose front on
the river may be about eight hundred feet. It accom-
modates six hundred pupils, with all the necessary
teachers, the retinue of servants, the Admiral's family,
countless apartments appropriated to museums, libraries,
reception-rooms, models, moulding, etc., and four large
open lots for recreation and sport. None are admitted
into this Imperial institution except the sons of noble-
men ; one hundred of them pay for their own tuition, at
the rate of one hundred and fifty roubles, or one hundred
and twenty-five dollars per annum, and for that sum, in
addition to instruction, are found in everything, — board-
ing, lodging, clothing, books, and a suit of uniform when
they quit; the other five hundred of them are paid for
by the Emperor. The regular course lasts six years,
and at the close the pupil is an officer in the navy, and
enters active service. About eighty are thus ushered
into the world every year. Nothing would seem to be
spared in labour and expense in order to make their train-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 97

ing perfect. The Emperor has devoted three beautiful
small frigates exclusively to their use, in which they are
constantly practising, during the summer season, in the
bay between this and Cronstadt. Every class has, in its
turn, ample opportunity for this practical experience.
But in the building itself, for the special initiation of the
younger classes, there has been constructed a small man-
of-war brig, furnished with all the spars and ropes, and
strong enough as well as roomy enough to permit a crew
of twenty to go through all the exercises of making
sail, tacking, taking in, etc. We were delighted at wit-
nessing this at full play under the orders of a lad of
great promise, about fifteen years of age, the son of an
acquaintance, Princess Gallitzin. In the same vast apart-
ment, at one end of it, has been stationed what is de-
nominated the dock-yard, in which there is building a
seventy-four, every timber and plank of which is fitted
with screws, so as to be capable of being taken to pieces
and of being rebuilt by each successive class. The keel
is fifty-seven feet in length, and the beam is fourteen.
This admirable structure originated with Krusenstern,
and he proposes by it to give to every one of his students
an ample knowledge of every part of a vesssel of war,
of the relation of all the parts, and of ship-building
generally. Near this, also, were erected two sections of a
man-of-war's bulwarks, each with a port-hole, one with
a long gun, the other with a carronade, both of brass,
fitted to practise the levelling, taking sight, loading, and
firing. The same apartment, of whose vast dimensions
I forget the particulars, is used as a refectory ; and we
were highly gratified by seeing the entire corps of six
hundred drummed to their dinner in exact order. The
astronomical apparatus, the models of a number of cele-

98 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

brated ships, and the engraving of a remarkable sea-
fight, were all interesting. The capital library, too,
stored with volumes in various languages, was superin-
tended by an officer decorated with an order of merit.
The dormitories were airy and extensive; the apartments
for the sick were unexceptionable, and here we saw a
recent English invention of a bed made of water, — in
other words, a mattress of gum-elastic filled with that
fluid, — which the Admiral assured us had been found, on
trial, the easiest bed for the invalid. The kitchen appeared
commodious and ample. One pervading quality struck
us all in relation to the whole institution, — its extreme
neatness and cleanliness, the total absence, even in the
hospital and kitchen, of the slightest offensive appearance
or odour. While walking through the museum, I re-
marked two pieces of fanciful carving in black wax, — one
a troika, of small size, — and was told by the Admiral that
they were the untaught and unaided productions of one
of his pupils ; that the boy had manifested no particular
capacity for the naval service, but had suddenly exhib-
ited this sort of talent and taste, and that about five
days ago the Emperor, who is very fond of the establish-
ment, paid it a visit before going to Berlin, and, noticing
the two specimens on the table, inquired about their
author, and immediately directed that he should be sent,
under his particular auspices, to be instructed in the Acad-
emy of Arts. The Admiral and his two daughters politely
escorted us to the wharf at a little after one o'clock, and
we agreed in the opinion that our morning had been
most agreeably and advantageously spent.

At two o'clock we drove to the Hermitage, expecting
to treat ourselves and the young ones with hearing the
far-famed golden peacock, golden cock, and golden owl.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 99

under a golden tree, on a golden grass-plat, surrounded
by enormous precious stones, make their respective pecu-
liar noises of screaming, crowing, and hooting. The
machinery, however, was out of repair, and we had to
content ourselves with astonishing the eyes without the
ears. Finding Mr. Labensky present, I ascertained from
him that the painter of the magnificent and interesting
picture I had noticed on a former visit — the Review in
Berlin — is named Cruger, and is a native of that city.
All its remarkable personages are miniature likenesses ;
and he pointed out to me in the right corner of the
picture two figures of no little celebrity in a sort of
dearborn or open carriage, — Paganini seated, and Sontag
(now Countess Rossi) standing alongside of him. He
showed me also Baron Humboldt in the crowd.

1838. May 20. — Being the anniversary of our sailing
out of the harbour of Boston on board the Independence,
we were visited by a young gentleman of that city, Mr.
Sumner, just arrived, and the first who reached Cron-
stadt through the ice this season in a Charleston brig,
The Hardy, who was present and saw us take our
departure in our noble frigate.

1838. June 3. — We spent the evening at Countess
Nesselrode's, not returning home until half-past twelve,
at which hour the twilight was so beautiful and clear
that I was able to read distinctly in crossing St. Isaac's
Square. I met at Nesselrode's for the first time the
celebrated Speranski, who, under Alexander, systemized
the laws, gave offence to the boyars, fell into disgrace,
and was some time in Siberia. His head and entire
figure — a tall, slim, bald-headed man in black — reminded
me strongly of Mr. Robert M. Taylor, of Philadelphia.
Count Nesselrode leaves here for Berlin on Tuesday next.

100 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1838. June 7. — The son of Baron Steiglitz called
while I was yet at breakfast to inform me of what had
just occurred at Mrs. Wilson's boarding-house. A
young Bostonian, recently arrived, by the name of Hall
had attempted to destroy himself by cutting his throat
with a razor; he inflicted some deep gashes, but failed
to effect his purpose. Information of the fact having
been sent to the police, its agents were in attendance,
and were about removing him to an Imperial hospital.
I immediately went over and visited the unfortunate
man. He was lying in bed on his back ; the wounds
had been sewed up and bandaged ; he had bled profusely,
but the redness of his face indicated considerable fever ;
the officers of police were engaged in drafting a prods-
verbal^ and had their surgeon with them. Several
American captains were present, — Captain Dwyer, Cap-
tain Trask. I immediately inquired into the nature of
the wounds, the ability of the man to bear removal, the
character of the hospital, and the manner in which he
would probably be treated, etc. H^ was himself anxious
to be sent, and the physicians and all his companions
thought he would be far better off* if he went to the
hospital. Mrs. Wilson, too, said it was impossible for
her to have him properly nursed at her house. On the
whole, I thought the removal the only step that could
be taken to secure his life, especially as the police-officer
assured me that he should be vigilantly guarded against
the paroxysm of fever and be most carefully attended.
He was taken to the hospital about two o'clock. Mr.
Chew went there at four in order to see that all was right.

1838. June 8. — Mr. Chew reports that poor Hall is
quite contented with his accommodations and is prom-
ising very well.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAH. lOI

1838. June 15. — Attended the funeral service of Ro-
dofinikine at the Monastery of St. Alexander Nefsky.
It lasted for nearly three hours. The number of offici-
ating priests was about twelve, of whom two appeared
of high rank by the richness of their tiaras and vest-
ments, and by the deference with which they were
treated. The ceremonies were excessively monotonous
and tiresome, seeming to involve much of superstition
and much of image reverence. The kissing the hands,
the garments, and the feet of certain of the priests was
incessant ; and the pictures of saints, the book of prayer,
and even the tables and their carpeting underwent the
same frequent endearment. A dirge was admirably
sung by a numerous choir without any instrumental
music. One voice, that of an active officiating priest,
indicated prodigious power, and transcended even that
of Angrisani. The body lay in state under a gorgeous
canopy of crimson velvet and gold surmounted with
crimson and white plumes. The coffin, which rested on
a platform raised four or five feet by steps from the floor,
was of rich scarlet cloth worked with gold and edged
with gold lace ; its seam was marked by double rows of
white lace two or three inches deep. During the cere-
monies a heavy drapery of cloth of gold covered the
lower part of the coffin, which was removed, when the
coffin was taken to a side door, opened, and earth thrown
upon the body. During a portion of the time every
person present held a wax taper, and before the coffin was
moved the kindred and servants of the deceased went up
the steps and kissed it. It is unfair to form or express
an opinion as to ceremonies of this sort, without under-
standing the meaning of their various parts ; it certainly

did not appear to produce the slightest appropriate im-

I02 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

pression upon any who witnessed it. The deceased was
furnished with 2, passport and a dish of rice pudding !

1838. June 16. — ^The Imperial standard unexpectedly
waves over the palace of Anischoff. His Majesty has
taken his good city by surprise; it is said also that he
returns from an abrupt incog, visit to Stockholm, where
he remained but a few hours.

1838. June 19. — Having procured from Count Can-
crin an introductory note, we all went at one o'clock to
visit the Mint and Church within the Fortress opposite
the Marble Palace.

The church is exceedingly rich in its interior decora-
tions ; the altar-piece and ornaments being either of gold
or splendidly worked and gilded. Its walls are almost
lined with standards taken during the wars of Alexander.
The tombs of the Emperors and Empresses, in number
eight or ten, are stationed on the floor in different parts
of the church ; that of Alexander looks almost as ancient
as that of Peter; they are of uniform size and height,
oblong squares of granite or marble slabs about three
feet high and six feet long ; they are first covered with
cloth of gold bordered with ermine, and then again with
a woollen covering on which the initials of the deceased
are worked ; medals were fastened on the top ; and two
keys, one immense, probably of surrendered fortresses,
lay on the tomb of Alexander. The steeple of this is
celebrated for its golden covering, which to-day, as the
sun was clear, shone too dazzlingly to be looked at.

The Mint was interesting in all its details. The quan-
tities of Siberian gold and silver collected in immense
bars and huge square cakes exceeded expectation. We
were furnished an English guide, who accompanied us
throughout the establishment and explained the various

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. IO3

processes that were in operation, by which the two
metals were purified of each other, and, finally, stamped
into coin. The machinery appeared to be extensive and
admirable. In the department appropriated to medals
we were gratified by being shown a series commemora-
tive of the incidents of Alexander's reign, designed and
executed by Count Tolstoi, himself the best die-sinker
in the country. The reverse of every medal was the
bust of the Emperor as Achilles.

In a separate building we found, carefully preserved,
the large boat alleged to have been constructed by Peter
the Great himself

1838. June 29. — Went to the Alexandrofsky Theatre,
in the Nefsky, fronting on the square between the Im-
perial Library and the palace of Anischoflf. This and
the Great Theatre are two of the finest probably in the
world. There are six tiers of boxes. The decorations
and police are imperial throughout. The performances
of this evening were in Russian, and, of course, unintel-
ligible to us ; but we could perceive that one of them was
a lively and ludicrous farce, descriptive of the sensation
produced here by the appearance of Taglioni and of the
press for admission to her representations.

1838. July 3. — The revolt of Stockholm, consequent
upon the punishment of a newspaper editor for some
remark as to the manner in which the Emperor was
treated on his last visit, appears to have been a serious
affair; to have continued with various excesses for some
days, and to have been accompanied with the loss of
many lives. The last accounts leave the affair unfinished^
and the artillery arrayed against the people.

1838. July 6. — Mr. DaschkoflT accompanied us this
afternoon on a ride in search of a country-seat. We

I04 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

went across the islands to the mainland and visited a
church recently built, which owed its structure to cir-
cumstances of considerable interest. It is exceedingly
pretty, and has just been erected by a rich noble lady
of the name of Vassiltevich, the altar being placed on
the very spot where her only son breathed his last.
This young man, it appears, became enamoured of a
female somewhat inferior to him in social position, and
his mother inflexibly opposed the union. They were
kept apart for some years, until, owing to one cause or
another, he declined further intercourse with her; her
brother challenged him ; they met two or three hundred
yards from the spot on which the church stands, fired at
about fifteen paces' distance, and both shots were fatal.
Vassiltevich was carried to an inn which stood on the
present site of the church, and shortly afterwards expired.
His antagonist died on the field. The place of the duel
is in a garden with trees and shrubbery around, and the
precise spot of each combatant is marked by a flat, round
block of granite about three feet in diameter and one
foot high. The mother, whose wealth is boundless,
actuated for some time by extreme hatred of the family
of her son's destroyer, resolved to purchase the whole
scene of action, to convert the battle-ground into prome-
nade gardens, with the granite mementos mentioned,
and to construct a church at which every prayer that was
uttered should be accompanied by a curse upon the soul
and family of her son's enemy. The priests interfered,
and, after several years of persuasion, induced her to
abandon the last part of her design, and, as both the
young men had died without absolutions, to dedicate
the edifice to both as a proof of her Christian forgive-
ness. The columns, altar-pieces, and windows of stained

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I05

glass, now in all their freshness, are very beautiful. It is
called the Church of St. Vladimar.

1838. July 13. — We visited to-day the encampment
near the village of Krasno-Celo. The distance is ex-
actly twenty-four versts, or, say, sixteen miles. We
started with two carriages and four at half-past nine, and
reached the village at eleven o'clock, and returned to a
late dinner at six. The camp, which is regularly opened
as soon as the summer begins, and is said to contain
a force of about forty thousand, spreads itself on the
heights to the east of the town, and in the form of a
horseshoe extends about two miles. It is beautifully
laid out. We drove through some of its principal sec-
tions. As it is the birthday of the Empress, the soldiers
were engaged in saying mass around the chapel of their
respective quarters, and the solemn silence which pre-
vailed while the thousands stood uncovered was exceed-
ingly exemplary and impressive. The tents were all in
the finest order of arrangement and cleanliness. The
coup d'ceil from the village was peculiarly fine.

At ten o'clock to-night we ordered the carriage and
drove to Kamenoi-Ostroff to witness a succession of fire-
works prepared by the Princess Beloselsky in honor of
the day. The crowd exceeded anything I ever beheld,
covering the land and water as far as the eye could pierce,
and forming, from the boats to the highest points of
Hilagon near the Imperial chateau, a vast and dense
amphitheatre of human beings. There must have been
more than two hundred thousand present. The fire-
works were arranged on the Christofsky beach, in front
of the Beloselsky palace, and on the broad and smooth
arm of the Neva, which divided Christofsky and Hilagon.

The position was admirably chosen, and permitted every

10*

I06 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

one of the countless crowd to enjoy the entire exhibition.
The brilliancy of the rockets, of the various feux de joie,
of the revolving lights, and of the illuminated temples
and pavilions, on the principal of which the name of
Alexandra in capitals of fire was vividly conspicuous,
exceeded expectations.

1838. July 19. — ^Visited the Academy of Fine Arts,
accompanied by Mrs. Dallas and my daughters. The
collection of casts is remarkably fine, some of them of
modern subjects. Devoted exclusively to the cultiva-
tion and encouragement of native talent, the number of
copies of celebrated paintings is large. An original one
of great size has been placed in the Academy since my
last visit, and purports to represent the arrival of the
Grand Duchess Helen, after her marriage, at the Champ-
de-Mars. Her likeness, in a coach drawn by eight horses,
is strikingly good ; the front of the canvas is crowded
with admirable miniatures of the distinguished persons,
military and civil, who participated in the ceremony of
the reception. The Emperor, on horseback, attended by
a group, at the head of which appears the young Czaro-
vitz, and the Ambassador of Austria, Count Ficquelmont,
are faithfully delineated. The immense picture repre-
senting the Emperor mounted on his bay charger, and
in full military costume, whence the best engraved like-
nesses are taken, improved upon further inspection; the
other figures are : nearest the Emperor on his left, the
Czarovitz ; behind the Czarovitz, Count Cernicheff, the
Minister of War; nearest the Emperor on his right,
though a little in the rear, is Volkonsky; next and
prominent is the Grand Duke Michel ; next retreating is
Count Benkendorff ; and farthest, but forward, is Paske-
vitch, Prince of Warsaw. The vast painting delineating

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. lO/

the destruction of Pompeii attracted Mrs. Dallas's ad-
miration ; its colours, however, are too glowing for my
taste.

\%%%. July 26. — Spent the day at Pavlovsky, agree-
ably to the invitation of Countess Schimmelpenninck.
Our time was made very pleasant by rides through the
Imperial Park, and by visits to the monuments erected
by the late Empress's mother, Marie, — one to her own
parents, the King and Queen of Wurtemberg, and the
other to her husband Paul. The latter monument is
remarkably beautiful and in fine taste ; it is contained in
a small Doric temple with colonnade of red granite col-
umns in front, covering a large door of ornamented iron
railing, directly opposite to which is the tomb. The
tomb is composed of immense slabs of red porphyry,
shaped pyramidally ; near the apex is a fine medallion
of white marble, being an admirable head of the de-
ceased Emperor; and below it on a platform of por-
phyry, weeping at an urn, is an exquisitely chiselled
female figure, on her knees and bending forward, repre-
senting the widowed Empress ; in front and below the
platform is a large bass-relief of white marble repre-
senting all the children, — ^Alexander seated on the right,
clothed in armor, with casque off, in an ecstasy of grief,
covering his face with his hands, while Constantine,
Nicholas, and Michel approach to console him; the
young sisters are also drawing near; two of the elder
ones, married, are mournfully retiring; an infant in a
cloud, early deceased, beckons the figure of another sister
who also died. The whole work is exceedingly neat and
in capital preservation. It is placed in a very retired
and silent part of the Park. We visited also the palace
of the Pavilion of Roses. The palace was built by the

I08 DIARY OF GEORGE MIEFLIN DALLAS.

Empress Marie,* and became her permanent residence
after Paul's death. It has been religiously kept in the
precise condition in which she left it, by the present
Grand Duke Michel, who alleges that he cannot bear to
live in a house which reminds him at every corner of his
early happiness and of a parent whom he adored, and
who resides in a comparatively wretched building at
some distance from the palace. His true reason is the
known lack of funds to renovate and modernize. The
furniture is costly and beautiful, but not in the reigning
fashion. Its tapestry is beautiful. Some of the paint-
ings are very fine. The library is the precious apart-
ment, and is much resorted to. The hall of reception
is a vast square. Several of the cabinets were hung
with the drawings, paintings, and plaster modellings of
the Empress, whose sentiment was strongly displayed in
the groupings of her children. As soon as I entered
one of the rooms, I remembered instantly to have been
in it before, though until that moment it had escaped
my recollection ; it was the apartment in which twenty-
five years ago I had been presented to the Empress
mother. We returned home by the railroad at half-past
eleven o'clock, having exceedingly enjoyed our excur-
sion.

1838. July 28. — On the invitation of the Marquis
Carrega, I visited the Winter Palace, in order to see the
progress of the building. We were accompanied by one
of the superintendents. There is a wilderness of scaf-
folding and a world of rubbish. Nothing intimates that
the work can be thoroughly accomplished short of five or
six years. The southern section may possibly be fitted up
by next April, so as to admit the Imperial family. There
are three thousand men employed on the building.

Ar THE COURT OF THE CZAR. IO9

1838. July 2g, — Started at four p.m., and reached the
country-seat of Mr. S. Cramer near the village and on
the river Ochta at five, where we dined and remained
until half-past nine. We were saluted by the American
flag, which floated during our stay. The place is es-
teemed the handsomest of which the environs can boast,
and is said to have been built by the celebrated Potemkin.
It is exceedingly showy in the style and structure of its
apartments, and, though built of brick, seems fitted for
fine and warm weather only. Mrs. Cramer has recently
sold it to General Zerkazanet for two hundred and fifty
thousand roubles, a price which must appear very low
when it is remembered that it is but about seven miles
from the city, easily accessible, and embraces about three
thousand acres of land, two splendid dwelling-houses,
and eighty male serfs with their families and villages.
We here met the brother of Mr. Bodisco who is Russian
Minister at Washington and a colonel in the Russian
army.

1838. August I. — At nine this morning we went to
Cronstadt on board the steamboat, performing the pas-
sage in about two hours. Our Consul, Mr. Lenartzen,
apprised of our intention to come, had informed the
Government, and everything that could contribute to our
comfort and amusement was prepared. The Governor's
aid, Colonel RomanoflT, with the Consul and his eldest
daughter, met us at the wharf, and after the other pas-
sengers had landed, the steamboat was directed to take
us on board the Admiral's frigate, the Aurora, lying at a
distance. A barge of fourteen oars was also ready and
taken in tow. The Aurora is a showy ship of in fact
sixty guns, the upper-deck carronades, with a crew of
four hundred men, four lieutenants and six midshipmen.

no DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Great neatness and cleanliness were conspicuous; but
the seamen were kept out of sight. An apparatus was
shown me by the captain, which he said had been in use
for five years back, — an immense air-pump which changed
the atmosphere of every part of the ship below with great
rapidity; the draught in its funnels, while the machine
was in operation, was so great as to blow out one's
handkerchief when put in. On leaving the Aurora to
return to the steamboat, a salute was fired of thirteen
guns. Having landed, we took to our barge and pro-
ceeded to visit the immense new dry-dock, now rapidly
completing. The work is truly an imperial one, —
executed of fine granite and adapted to accommodate a
ship of one hundred and twenty guns. The masonry is
beautiful. The builder, General Foulon, was present,
and his assistant, of the name of Wilson, exhibited and
explained the drafts of the work. With the aid of an im-
mense reservoir or well and steam enginery attached, it
is computed that the dock may be emptied, after the ship
is once floated in and fixed, in the course of thirty-six
hours. There are a long range of other dry-docks, and
these we saw to great advantage, crowded with a number
of ships of the line undergoing all sorts of repairs. At
the head of one of the docks, in a small building exclu-
sively appropriated to it, we were shown a model of the
entire island of Cronstadt and its harbour and adjacent
castles and forts. This model consists of a sort of im-
mense table of great solidity, on the smooth surface of
which have been placed small wooden houses and other
buildings indicating with the minutest accuracy every
improvement It presented to the eye exactly such a
view as one might have of the island from a balloon two
or three miles above it. We now quit our barge and

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, III

proceeded in carriages to visit the arsenal and to ride
around the walls. The veteran general in command at
the arsenal, who received us in much state, accompanied
by five or six of his aids, could not, unfortunately for us,
speak any language but Russ, and our inquiries, pas-
sing necessarily through Colonel Romanoff or the Con-
sul, were on that account limited. The collection of
military material here was very great On the first floor
were arranged the carriages of a thousand cannon with
all their adjuncts and equipments ; on the upper floor,
muskets, swords, pistols, swivels, pikes, and small-arms
of every possible description, were arranged in countless
quantities, and in a most tasteful manner, reminding us
of the display we had witnessed at the Tower in London,
and surpassing that in everything, except perhaps in the
number of muskets. On the adjoining fleld was a splen-
did exhibition of five thousand pieces of ordnance,
many of them of dazzling brass, of all calibres and sizes
and shapes ; and these were flanked by mounds of cannon-
shot and shells, which exceeded in number sixteen thou-
sand. This show of iron force transcended anything I
have seen.

The singular and solid masonry of the walls, as we
rode between them and the outer fosse, was well worth
seeing ; and it was impossible not to notice everywhere
that the Government was expending immense sums of
money in ornamenting the island. Numerous ranges
of superb barracks are finishing ; and brick parapets of
great solidity are constructing. On one of the buildings
a colonel of engineers seemed to take great pride in
pointing out some inscriptions which indicated that three
or four of the foundation-stones had been laid by the
Emperor, Count Woronzow, Prince Volkonsky, etc. It

112 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

is said that his Majesty annually appropriates four mil-
lion roubles to the works of Cronstadt, for which he has
long exhibited an unabated partiality, and which he says
he will make a little St Petersburg. It contains a per-
manent population exceeding ten thousand. The mili-
tary force on the island equals twenty thousand. A fleet
could not approach with hostile intentions without having
a thousand cannon pointed at it from the numerous forti-
fications. Being cordially entertained at dinner by Mr.
Leonartzen and his two daughters, we returned to the
steamboat at six o'clock and reached home at nine.

1838. August 17. — We started at half-past twelve and
reached Pergola, the country residence of Prince Butera,
at about half-past two. The distance is about eighteen
versts, or twelve miles, in a northwestern direction. The
situation is the finest we have yet seen, as there is some-
thing like hill and dale. The estate, principally owned
by the son of the Princess by her first husband, Count
Shuvaloff, is extensive and highly improved. The dis-
play of dahlias and other rich flowers is very great. The
conservatories are large and supply tropical and other
fruits at all seasons ; there are quantities of pineapples,
peaches, nectarines, and grapes, ripening and ripe. The
Princess, who has had the luck to have three husbands,
erected to her second a handsome monument, which is
surrounded by a small iron railing, preserved in undis-
turbed tranquillity, and decorated with flowers. The
monument is enclosed in a tomb, sodded and planted,
and the marble is only perceptible through the grating
of the door. It is said that she placed alongside of her
husband's an open tomb for herself, and that some mali-
cious personage, since her present marriage, visiting it,
wrote within *^for my next husband^' since which access

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, II3

has been denied, and the spot preserved from intrusion.
Her second husband had been the tutor of the children
by her first, and is spoken of in terms of great praise by
those who knew him. He purchased his title of Count,
and when dying expressed a wish to be interred among
the noblesse at the Church of St. Alexander Nefsky ; but
the Emperor Nicholas forbade it. Her eldest son, Count
Shuvaloff, about nineteen or twenty, has recently returned
from the wars in Circassia, where he received a wound
in the breast He is prepossessing, intelligent, and a very
modest gentleman. The Princess has been building for
some years back, and will now soon finish, a neat Gothic
church on a hill within sight of the mansion. It is built
of the soft stone found on her estate, which is yellowish
<vith veins of blue, and has much the appearance of half-
baked brick. We rambled in every direction through
the park and other grounds enjoying the scenery and
shrubbery and fresh air ; we were regaled with a dejeuner
a la fourchette immediately after arriving, with a dinner
at half-past four, and with tea and fruits at half-past eight,
while in the intervals we frolicked with the mimic ice-
hills, the swings, seesaws, bagatelles, etc.; we reached
home about half-past ten, delighted with our excursion.
1838. August 20, — I accompanied my daughters to
Pavlovsky. We spent the day at Count Schimmelpen-
ninck's, and did not reach home again until half-past
eleven at night. In the course of conversation I learned
that the Count had studied the law, intending to practise
it ; that the death of his father diverted him to commerce;
that he became President of the Dutch East India Com-
pany; was Secretary of State by appointment of the pres-
ent King, and is a member of the first or upper house

of the States-General. He is of opinion that there exist

114 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

several incurable defects in the existing constitution
of Holland, which soon must produce its destruction ;
of these he referred particularly to the complicated pro-
cess by which the members of the second or lower
house of Legislature are chosen from the provinces, and
the inability of the King, who alone originates and is re-
sponsible for laws, without the intervention of ministers
to enforce his methods or to avoid unpopularity when
resisted and assailed. The upper house, created by the
King alone, is merely for life, and having no hold upon
popular sentiment, and no support, as in England, from a
permanent and organized order, is esteemed a mere use-
less agent of the monarch, and cannot, with any success,
at any time or on any subject resist the popular branch.
The Count's grandfather was Ambassador from Holland
at Paris. His father was the last pensioner and became
stone blind, and the family indulge a notion that Napo-
leon, in order to get rid of him and to prepare the way
for his brother, Louis, had a poisonous powder enclosed
in a complimentary letter to him, by which he was in-
stantly deprived of sight. The Count says that the
Princess of Orange has been travelling in Germany this
summer incog, under the title of Countess Van Buren.

1838. October 8. — During the last two days the arrival
of the Emperor with his whole family has been hourly
expected on board his steamer, the Hercules, from Stettin.
Preparations were made for their landing on the English
Quay, and we have been kept on the qui vive. It is now
ascertained that, having encountered a rough sea and the
ladies suffering greatly, the whole party has landed on
the coast and will travel hither by land.

I returned the visit of Admiral Krusenstern and left

with him a newspaper from the United States, contain-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. II5

ing some paragraphs about our exploring expedition, in
which he professes to take much interest. In the course
of our conversation the Admiral likened the Circassians
to our Cherokee and Creek Indians, and said that the
frequency and cruelty of their incursions into Russia
caused the present war, a war which Russia really felt
no inclination to pursue, but was forced by a principle
of self-preservation to aid.

I visited Barante, the French Ambassador, who arrived
with his family on Saturday evening last He was
very cordial, spoke eloquently about his journey up the
Mediterranean, to Greece, to Constantinople, to Odessa,
to the Crimea, and through Russia to Moscow. He
has been treated throughout in a manner extremely flat-
tering and agreeable. He asked me what was thought
in the United States of the French blockade of the
Mexican coast. I told him that we entertained very
little doubt about its justice, as we ourselves were suf-
ferers from Mexican misconduct ; but that we began to
think that they were rather unnecessarily interfering
with our commerce, and we did not think it quite com-
patible with the honour and glory of so powerful a nation
to be attacking, for an amount of damages less than a
million of dollars, so young, so weak, so poor, and so
distracted a republic as Mexico. " Well, but," said he,
" what can be done with a country which has scarcely
anything that can be called a government ? We have
no other resource," I said we had referred our contro-
versy with Mexico to umpirage when we were on the
eve of war ; he turned the conversation instantly, and told
me he had just received the intelligence that the difficulty
with Switzerland was at an end, that Louis Napoleon had
quit that country. He intended that I should under-

Il6 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

stand that the French cabinet had attained its object. I
merely remarked that I had known some time ago that
Louis Napoleon had obtained a passport for England,
" but," said I, " was there not much false importance given
to this business ? Why exaggerate the consequence and
fame and dangerous character of a man who is without
abilities, and whose affair at Strasburg only made him
ridiculous ? In the United States such a person no one
would ever dream of persecuting into importance; he
would be allowed to sink by his own weight." " That is
true," he remarked, " of the United States, where order is
so well and has been so long established that no one
entertains the slightest apprehension of disturbances
arising from political ambition ; but we in France have
been kept in such a perpetual turmoil and suffering that
we deem it the part of wisdom and prudence to take
measures to crush or thwart everything of the sort as
early as possible."

Horace Vernet's picture, finished this year for the
Emperor, is now in the Hermitage. Philip and I visited
it to-day. It represents Napoleon reviewing his Imperial
guard in the Thuilleries, behind the palace, between it and
the celebrated triumphal arch on which were placed the
four bronzed Venetian horses. The hero is followed by
an immense throng of marshals, aids, etc., splendidly
mounted and equipped, while he himself, on a superb
white charger, is characterized by great simplicity of
dress, a plain cocked hat without feather or cockade,
white smallclothes, and with a face and figure which do
his character and achievements entire justice. It is the
finest portraiture of the wonderful man I have yet seen.
He is in the act of slightly checking his horse at an
extremity of one of the lines, as he beholds an old

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 11/

wooden-legged soldier, whose wounds in the head are
yet bandaged, and who stands between two of his boys,
stretching towards him a written petition. Murat's steed
is as noble an Arabian as the imagination can possibly
shadow forth. He was the only one of the train of
whose identity I could entertain no doubt. The per-
spective of the ranks of soldiers is admirably executed.
As a painting, there is a boldness, spirit, correctness
of colouring, and unity of design which cannot be
surpassed.

1838. October 9. — ^The Imperial standard is hoisted on
the AnischofT palace, his Majesty and all his family
haying reached Sarsko-Selo yesterday afternoon.

1838. October 19. — Escorted Mrs. Dallas to the Her-
mitage in order to show her Vernet's review. It grows
finer and finer the more it is examined. Eugene Beau-
harnais is the splendid figure in green. In the same
room, since my last visit, several delightful objects have
been collected, no doubt lately purchased by the Em-
peror. The two pieces of sculpture. The Bacchante, by
Bienaime, and The Dying Psyche, by Tenerani, are ex-
quisite: the former is inimitable. An Imperial review
on the Champ-de-Mars, by a Russian artist, seems to be
put there as a set-ofT to Cruger and Vernet. It is an
equally large canvas, crowded with figures, among which
the Emperor, Empress, Grand Duchess Marie, Grand
Duke Michel, Czarovitz, Counts OrlofT, Benkendorf, etc.,
are easily recognized, but the painting is comparatively
wretched. Bienaime's Bacchante is dated at Rome, 1838.

1838. October 22. — Went, accompanied by Madame
DaschkofT, to the Russian theatre, and witnessed one act
of the Gazza Ladra, and Taglioni again in the Maid of
the Danube. The Emperor and Empress were present

Il8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

So were the Marquis and Marchioness Clanricarde,
Baron and Baroness Barante, Count and Countess Rossi,
etc. The Clanricardes promise very little. The Mar-
quis is a tall, pale, and long-faced, bald and awkward-
looking man with a repulsive physiognomy; and his
wife, with marked features and fashionable air, would
seem very much like a spoiled and dashing beauty whose
colour had faded under the effect of a family of nine
children.

1838. November i. — I visited old Mr. Poletica this
morning, and found him unwell from a severe cold which
suddenly attacked him yesterday. He has spent, during
the last summer, three weeks at Constantinople, probably
to unite his efforts with those of other Russian diplomats
in order to prevent, if possible, the recently announced
treaty between Turkey and England, which would seem
to remove the Sultan from under the control of the
Czar, and to subject him to French and British influ-
ence, the latter guaranteeing to him the dependence of
Mehemet Ali. Mr. Poletica remembers but little of our
country ; has, perhaps, never been its friend, and is wholly
ignorant of the real character of its recent history. He
meddled with more art and success than candour in for-
mation of the treaty of 1824, by which Mr. Middleton
has entailed upon the relations of Russia and America
an embarrassing, if not incurable, source of strife. He
is undoubtedly a man of talent, information, and experi-
ence. He enjoys considerable repute as a member of
the Senate of the Empire, and as a business drudge, but
his temper is apt to be violent and overbearing, and his
prejudices are wholly insurmountable. He told me that
he had long ceased to have any correspondence with the
United States: but he showed me, hanging up in his

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. II9

apartment, a striking miniature likeness of Mr. Gallatin,
which had been executed for him by a lady of Geneva,
and a bad oil painting of President Washington, which
he had brought with him from America. Washington
and Gallatin made to unite in the taste of a Russian
" Litterateur et homme d'affaires" as symbols of our
republic !

At Count Nesselrode's, last evening, I had a long and
somewhat interesting conversation with Baron BrunofT,
who holds an important post in the Department of
Foreign Affairs. He accompanied the Vice-Chancellor
to the coronation of the Austrian Emperor, this summer,
at Milan. He invited me to explain the cause of Presi-
dent Jackson's hostility to the Bank, and listened atten-
tively to the detail, expressing a lively astonishment, at
its close, that the subject had never before been so clearly
and satisfactorily stated. He said that he had heretofore
ascribed the controversy to some personal motive of
Jackson's ; but that he now perceived distinctly that it
had its foundation in the settled principles of our Demo-
cratic party. Mr. Schwastoff, he said, had informed him
that in the United States any corporation or individual
might issue paper currency or notes, and that people
were bound by law to accept these in payment of debts ! I
explained the temporary effect of a suspension of specie
payments, and of the consequent panic, but removed
the absurdity of Mr. Schwastoff. He then complained
that it proved very difficult to get correct ideas of the
state of things in America; that Baron Krudener had
certainly formed many false notions from habits of re-
serve in personal intercourse, and perhaps from his defect
in hearing. I pointed out, as the great source of delu-
sion on this side of the Atlantic as to matters in America,

I20 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the habit of relying upon extracts made by Engh'sh edi-
tors from our commercial newspapers ; these newspapers
being in trading towns along the sea-coast, dependent
upon the patronage and uttering the language of bankers
and traders only, while the great voice of the interior
and governing people never reached Europe, except in
its effects, — that is, in their constant political triumphs.
After a very long talk he expressed himself extremely
obliged to me for the views I had given. His wife is a
lady of Stockholm, of great early beauty. He is him-
self devoted to business, and has the air, when met
in society, of a man perfectly exhausted by his day's
drudgery.

1838. November 2. — We went late this evening to
visit the family of Mr. BludofT, Minister of the Interior.
This gentleman, who I should take to be about sixty, is
much esteemed for ability and great devotion to his
official duties. He resembles in figure, without being
quite as stout or ungraceful, Mr. Woodbury. He has a
wife, a son, and a daughter. He has neither nobility nor
wealth to recommend him, though probably highly con-
nected. His present residence is a splendid palace in
the rear of the Alexandrina Theatre, recently fitted up
as the ofHcial residence of whoever may fill his post. It
is built and furnished in a style suited only to an occu-
pant of an immense fortune, capable and willing to
entertain sumptuously. What an inconvenient position
to place a man in I He lives and has his chancery on
the first floor, his wife on the second floor, and his
daughter on the third floor, — each floor being an endless
suite of vast and gorgeous apartments, adapted to receive
the Imperial court. The mother and daughter are quite
attractive persons ; neither of them having any personal

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 121

beauty, but both, the latter particularly, having much
intelligence and great amiability.

1838. November 4. — Dr. Lefevre being on a visit to
us this morning, I took occasion to inquire as to the
received opinions here on the subject of the Homoeo-
pathic system of medicine. He spoke of it with great
candour, and with obvious knowledge on the subject.
He said that some time ago the hope of saving about three
millions of roubles per annum in drugs, etc., induced the
government to try the system in some of the military hos-
pitals ; it there failed entirely, the patients died in count-
less numbers. The small doses are totally inefficacious
where the disorder is fixed and serious. In ordinary
practice complaints are light, nervous, and transient, and
the homoeopath may therefore often seem to produce
effects which time and a little care would accomplish. He
is inflexible in exacting, as a part of his prescription,
scrupulous attention to diet, exercise, clothing, early
sleep, etc., and these achieve infinitely more than his
medicines. To a certain extent, therefore, the system is
useful. But Lefevre suggests that the homoeopath does
what the regular physician never does, and what there-
fore leaves the practice open to suspicion and doubt, — he
is his own apothecary or compounder, and takes from
his pocket what he directs to be swallowed. No one,
therefore, knows exactly what or how much he adminis-
ters. He writes out no prescription and is unchecked
by a scientific druggist ; nevertheless the doctor thinks
that the system enjoys favour here, and is probably ad-
vancing in estimation.

Count Rossi, who arrived here about two weeks
since as Minister from the King of Sardinia, and who
visited us this evening, is a remarkably handsome man,

122 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLW DALLAS,

apparently nearly forty years of age. Six feet high, with
a figure like that of Christopher Hughes, though more
erect and compact, and with blue eyes, light hair, and
soft, florid complexion ; his manners are well formed and
polished, and he produces an agreeable impression;
he speaks English, though indifferently. He spoke of
knowing Mr. Davezac, our Minister formerly at the
Hague (at present, I believe, also), and has certainly a just
conception of his character. He had also well known Mr.
and Mrs. Browne while they were in Paris, and upon
being told their unhappy fate, manifested feeling and
respect.

1838. November 5. — ^The presentation at the British
Ambassador's was attended this evening. We went at
half-past eight o'clock en grande tenue, as the etiquette
of the occasion demanded. I am told that this cere*
monial, as a means of introducing the highest grade of
diplomatic functionaries to their colleagues and to the
fashionable world, is peculiar to this Court. Marquis of
Clanricarde is a tall, thin man, somewhat bald, with a fine
eye and prepossessing manner; his features are awk-
wardly set together, and produce an unfavourable impres-
sion at first. Lady Clanricarde, the daughter of Canning,
and the mother of seven children, is thoroughly English
in figure, style, expression, and speech ; her features are
prominent, and indicate intelligence as well as past beauty.
He is about thirty-nine and she about thirty-five years of
age. He looks perhaps younger than he is ; she, on the
contrary, seems older than she is. Their reception of our
party was certainly kind. The whole of Butera's second
floor was thrown open, and the stairway thronged with
Russians dressed in splendid English liveries. The visit-
ors were not as numerous as I expected to find them ;

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 123

but probably a number have reserved themselves for to-
morrow night, which is embraced by the invitation. I
recognized Mr. Buchanan, who is secretary or attache to
the Embassy, as having been in America with Sir Charles
Vaughan. He told me that Sir Charles had been ap-
pointed Ambassador to Constantinople, but owing to
some sudden cause had never gone there ; that he had,
however, obtained the rank, and was now content to retire
upon the pension incident to it.

1838. November 7. — ^The career of entertainments be-
gan to-day by a dinner of the French Ambassador ; Mrs.
Dallas and myself present. There were forty-eight at
table, among whom were Count and Countess Nessel-
rode, Count and Countess Woronzow, Count Charni-
chefT, Prince Volkonsky, the Marquis and Marchioness
of Clanricarde, with all the rest of the diplomatic lead-
ing missions, Princess Beloselsky, Princess SoltikofT,
etc. Prince Kosloffsky, who came in after dinner, in-
formed Mrs. Dallas that the Empress had appeared at
the great theatre last night, and had introduced her
daughter the Grand Duchess Marie (I presume by the
peculiar st>'le of her dress) to the public as about
becoming a bride.

1838. November^, — Mrs. Paschkoff visited Mrs. Dallas
to-day, full of the gossip of the town. The Russians
dislike the British Ambassador and Ambassadress.
Their presentation of Tuesday evening last was attended
by very few, and her Ladyship has been exceedingly in-
dignant Her manner is represented as excessively
haughty and cold, as indicating an extravagant self-
esteem. She dressed, too, in full black, which Russians
construe as opposite to the joy and pride with which
she ought in her appearance to welcome her visitors.

124 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Her husband, too, has shocked the nerves of the moral
fashionables of this Court by the arrival of his mistress
on the last steamer ; he thinks, too, of nothing but hunts
and races, and wants the dignity of an Ambassador.

1838. November 13. — The water of the Neva rose
during the night under the influence of a strong south-
westerly wind, and at ten o'clock this morning was
swollen five feet above its customary level. It appeared
in the streets, through the gratings of the common
sewers. Having advanced just far enough to awaken
anxiety, it suddenly receded and fell.

A combination of incidents and reflections strongly
impels me to the belief that a war between England and
Russia is on the eve of explosion. The movements in
India indicate an apprehension that the Russian forces
are uniting with those at Persia to assist the native
princes to change their masters. Russia is perceptibly
mortified, if not angered, by the ascendency which Eng-
land has recently exercised over the counsels of the
Turkish Sultan and of the Austrian Emperor. England
is exasperated by the results of the blockade of the
coast of Circassia; by the progress of Don Carlos in
Spain, traceable almost exclusively to the aid, moral
and material, of Russia; and by the gradual but certain
development of Russian manufactures. The Ministry,
too, must make some appeal to the loyalty and prejudices
of the country, or they are gone. In the late Globe, the
Emperor has been personally and most violently assailed,
and this is the special paper of Lord Palmerston ; and
I cannot avoid observing that the new British Ambassa-
dor, Marquis Clanricarde, has been received with cold-
ness, if not neglect. There is also existing among the
lower classes, the merchants, officers of the army, etc.,

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I25

a feverish sense of impending conflict. Suppose this
war to come, what may be its effects upon the United
States ? Its effects upon our commerce with this empire
would seem to be obvious and immediate. It must
wholly cease. There are few Russian ports, and their
natural difficulty of access would be made insurmount-
able by the vexations of British blockades. The trade,
too, which cannot be carried on here will probably be
drawn by England towards herself; we shall sell her the
cotton, tobacco, and sugar which would otherwise be
brought here to be exchanged for Russian products.
Politically we might soon be drawn into the conflict;
Russia would re-excite the Canadians; impressment
would come again into practice ; it would be seen that
we could avail ourselves of the opportunity to dispose
of the northeast boundary question, the northwest
boundary, etc.

1838. November 15. — The first soiree of the season
at Count Woronzow's was numerously and brilliantly
attended; Mrs. Dallas accompanied me. The British Am-
bassadors and Ambassadresses with their respective
suites, the rest of the diplomatic corps, Monseigneur
the Grand Duke Michel, Count and Countess Strogo-
noff, recently Ambassadorial representatives from this
Court at the Coronation of Queen Victoria, etc., were
present. General Tschitcherine intimated that the Mar-
quis of Clanricarde was not held in high estimation
here, that his private character was believed to be bad,
and it was said that he had been separated from his wife
for some time. I was congratulated on the news from
the United States by Mr. Buchanan. The messenger
of Galignani and a letter received from Mr. Benjamin

Rush contain intelligence of the successful result in the

126 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

elections of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland, and
probably Georgia. These States, added to those already
certain — Maine, New Hampshire, South Carolina, Ala-
bama, Missouri, Illinois, Michigan, and Arkansas — con-
stitute a squadron which leaves no room for future
apprehension as to the national administration. I trust
David R. Porter's majority is sufficiently decisive. My
prediction has always been that it would exceed twenty
thousand. I took care by a conversation with Count
BrunoflF that Count Nesselrode should hear my views
of the conclusive character of these elections, as I have
sometimes thought that an impression prevailed here
that our Democratic ascendency was on the eve of ex-
tinction. I beat Count Litta a capital game of chess.

1838. November 16. — It snowed considerably this
evening and the frost seems steadily advancing. We
went to the soiree of Princess RazoumoflFsky. It was
but partially attended. She is a lady of about sixty, of
unincumbered personal position, of apparently great sta-
bility of health, and of about five hundred thousand
roubles " de rentes." Her parties are regularly given
every Friday throughout the year, in town or in the
country. Her rooms, about ten in succession, are not
large; but they are ornamented with a luxury and pro-
fuse expenditure not to be surpassed. The folding-
doors opening into her " cabinet," chambre a coucher,
" a bain," are rich beyond conception, and attracted uni-
versal attention ; their substance seemed to be a sort of
rose amber, richly inlaid. I beat Mr. Tschitcherine at
chess.

No book could have given me more amusement than
I have derived during the last week from Chateaubri-
and's " Congress of Verona." It is in two good-sized

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 12/

octavos. The objects of the author would seem to be a
vindication of his statesmanship while Minister in the
department of Foreign Affairs in 1822- 2^-24, a period
of about sixteen months, under Louis the XVIII. ; a
claim to the exclusive merit of the war waged success-
fully by France against Spain for the deliverance of
King Ferdinand from the power of the Cortes ; and a
development of the views and operations of the author
in reference to the question of the independence of the
American Spanish colonies ; an exhibition of the man-
ner in which he was dismissed and a denial of his having
intrigued for the place of Count Villele, then at the head
of the Ministry. The manner in which this most elo-
quent writer pursues these purposes is extremely attrac-
tive. To be sure, he manifests all the conceited egotism
and much of the deceitfulness of the French politician ;
but his fancy is so rich, his political imagery and diction
are so glowing and soft, his recurrence to classical rem-
iniscences are so frequent and agreeable, the original
letters and documents which he publishes, interspersed
in his narrative, are so interesting, and his delineations
of the most remarkable personages of his official time
are so vivid and true, that I think he has produced two
volumes which surpass Wraxall or Cumberland. The
Congress of Verona was one of those regular royal con-
spiracies against constitutional forms of government and
popular rights of which we have seen many, and are
destined to see more before the struggles of the two
principles can possible cease. At it were convened not
merely great sovereigns, one of whom, Alexander of
Russia, was really great, but there were also Wellington,
Meiternich, Nesselrode, and Chateaubriand, — names
destined to long fame. It is striking, if not alarming, to

128 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

find this Congress entertained, even for a moment, the
idea of planting in Mexico and Colombia a race of Bour-
bon monarchs. We had a more direct interest in these
princely combinations than we imagined. The rapid
sketch of the life and character of the autocrat is very
fine; the pervading hostility towards the Austrian states-
man is a redeeming feature ; and the letters of Cobbett
and Canning are as characteristic and admirable as pos-
sible. Therels, on the whole, to be sure, a most appalling
picture of heartless political cunning and duplicity, but
ill assorted with the conscious immortality and daring
independence of the author of " La Genie du Chris-
tian isme."

1838. November 18. — Baron Manderstrom, Baron
Schleinitz, Marquis Carrega, Mr. Buchanan, and Mr.
Chew dined with me to-day, and remained unusually
long. It would seem to be understood that the Emperor
of Russia will quit this for Moscow on Wednesday next
with the Duke de Leuchtenberg ; that the marriage of
the Grand Duchess Marie will not take place before
the first week in July next, and that the sovereigns
of Austria and Prussia will attend it. Mr. Buchanan
condemned the resignation of Lord Durham with great
warmth, and was convinced that on his arrival in England
he would be denounced by all parties.

1838. November 22, — Mr. S. Cramer, whom I visited
this evening, informed me that a most remarkable in-
cident in the trade from St. Petersburg had occurred this
fall, of which he knew no example during his forty years'
activity as a merchant. All the hemp brought for export
had been purchased and shipped to England at nearly
twice the ordinary price; and all the tallow. The orders
had been thus numerous and extravagant owing to the

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 29

prevailing opinion in England that a war would break
out with this country. There is in mercantile sagacity,
the keenness of self-interest, something that foretells the
future as surely as anything else.

An event of a singular character has set us all specu-
lating. The Emperor in a single-horse sledge, without
any attendant, was seen to stop at the British Embassy
and to go in. He stayed for half an hour. Was this a
visit to the Ambassador or to his lady ? What does it
mean ? Is it in order to crush at once the rumour of an
impending war ? or is it the last civility preparatory to
hostilities ? One is apt to scan closely the most trifling
actions of so eminent a personage, especially in connec-
tion with public characters. And yet his Majesty is
really so fond of personal eccentricity of movement,
liking to surprise and to go where least expected, that
nothing can be safely deduced from his individual acts.
He has started this evening, though it snows rapidly, for
Moscow, accompanied by his intended son-in-law, the
Duke of Leuchtenberg, planning to be two days in going,
four days in remaining, and two days in returning.

1838. November 26. — The ball of Madame Boutourlin.

We went at near eleven o'clock and returned at half-past

three. The Grand Duke Michel was there, and all the

diplomatic corps. Boutourlin, who prides himself upon

his collection, and who, by the by, is the author of the

*• Russian Campaign to Paris," has got, within the last

few months, from Rome a beautiful piece of sculpture

by Bai-tolini ; it is a female slave seated upon her lower

legs, in a position scarcely practicable by even Taglioni,

with her hands joined near her knees, and her head

thrown a little upwards and backwards. The figure is

perfectly naked, perhaps rather too thin, but on the

12*

I30 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

whole graceful, soft, and effective. The richness of
choice Parian marble, when fresh, can scarcely be
imagined by those who have not seen it

1838. December i. — Dined at five p.m. with the Minister
from Denmark, Baron Blome. He is an old bachelor
seventy years of age ; Danish in every part of his ap-
pearance ; prominent features, large mouth, florid com-
plexion, weak eyes, red and powdered hair; mild and
agreeable in his manners and conversation; very rich
and hospitable. His eyes are so bad he cannot go out
at night, and in his own house every light is carefully
shaded. He has resided at this port for forty years. Is
the indefatigable attendant at all military reviews, wear-
ing scarlet and white with countless crosses and stars,
and is almost a universal favourite. The French and
British Ambassadors were the chief guests. Count Nes-
selrode being unwell and absent. A number of Rus-
sians were at table, among them Count Litta, Count
Borsh, Zavadowsky, Obriscoff, Prince Kosloffsky.

1838. December ^, — Mr. Soltikoff, while spending this
evening with us, narrated several anecdotes with great
spirit, which it may be worth while to preserve. He is
a man about sixty-five years of age, of immense wealth,
and of great talent, it is said. He was formerly high in
Imperial favour, but, owing to some personal indiscretion
in his manners at court, he was obliged to retire, at least
from intimacy. It is a fact remarkably illustrative of
the little attention which the United States receive from
European savans, that Mr. Soltikoff, although unques-
tionably eminent for ability and erudition, and though he
has a copy of the Declaration of Independence, with auto-
graph signatures, hanging up in his library, did not know
that General Washington had ever been President, but

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 131

thought that he had retired wholly from public affairs,
from the peace of 1783 to the period of his death I He
would hardly believe me when I assured him that he had
been our chief magistrate for eight years under the ex-
isting Constitution. Mr. Soltikoff says that the inunda-
tion of the Neva in 1824 was very sudden and incon-
ceivably disastrous in its effects. He occupied the house
in which he now lives in the Small Moscoy, and was
sitting at his office-table sealing some letters and pack-
ages. He had felt an unusual coldness in his feet ; he
rang the bell for his servant, and ordered him to take
some letters to the post-office, and to his utter amaze-
ment he received for answer that it was impossible, as
the waters were six feet high in the streets and still
rushing upwards. He had scarcely been told this before
the floor on which he stood burst and opened and the
waters rose in his apartment up to his own middle ; he
scrambled up-stairs, directing that nothing should be
removed; this swell lasted for about six hours. The
Emperor Alexander was born in 1777, a year memorable
by a similar inundation, and when that of 1824 occurred,
he said it announced his approaching end, and became
an altered man. Soltikoff describes the change as
striking and distressing; the calamity seemed to be
forever present in all its horror to his mind, and to
weigh him down. One melancholy incident he particu-
larly dwelt upon, that of an old woman whom he saw
while he was wandering about to relieve the sufferers,
and who was eagerly searching for the corpse of a young
and only grandson. The Emperor offered her ten thou-
sand roubles, which she declined receiving, saying she
wanted nothing but the body, and continued to weep
and search, when suddenly she espied the object of her

132 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

pursuit covered with dirt and rubbish, and rushed to it
frantic with delight, and embraced and clung to it in
prolonged delirium.

When, in the campaign of 1 8 14, the allies entered
Paris, the Emperor Alexander separated himself from
his staff, and, in the confidence of good intentions to-
wards the French people, confidently rode alone and in
advance. He was stopped by a knot of poissardes, one
of whom advanced and presented him a handsome
bouquet of flowers, saying that he was the only one of
the monarchs whom they loved.

During his stay at Paris, Alexander was in the habit
of almost daily visiting the Empress Josephine at Mal-
maison ; and, indeed, it was owing to his energetic friend-
ship at the Congress of Vienna that Eugene Beauharnais,
Duke of Leuchtenberg, was allowed to retain Bavaria.
On one occasion, driving out to see the ex-Empress in
his carriage, with four horses abreast, and galloping, as
usual, he met a French officer in a rich curricle and pair.
The Frenchman would not yield the road, but cried out,
" Give way ! give way !" and the consequence was that
when the two equipages encountered the curricle was
overturned and broken to pieces, its horses knocked
down and much wounded, and their owner thrown out,
rendered perfectly furious with rage. The Emperor
alighted immediately, begged the officer's pardon, hoped
he was not hurt, and ascribed the disaster to the careless-
ness of his coachman. " No !" was the reply. " You
are doubtless one of those who have conquered our
capital, and you think to ride rough-shod over us ; but
I will not submit to such indignities and wrongs. I de-
mand the satisfaction due to an insulted man. There is
my address, and I expect to see you by eleven o'clock

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 33

to-morrow morning.'* "Agreed/* said his Majesty;
" you shall be satisfied." Early the next day the Em-
peror sent General Kissilieflf to the Frenchman with a
splendid curricle and two of his finest horses, requesting
him to accept them in lieu of the injured ones. At first
the Frenchman haughtily declined, saying that he waited
the personal presence of General KissiliefTs friend and
associate, and would receive nothing but the satisfaction
of an apology or a duel. He was thunderstruck, says
Mr. Soltikoff, and overwhelmed, when Kissilieflf replied,
" That is impossible. My friend is his Majesty the Em-
peror of Russia."

1838. Decembers. — ^This, according to the Greek cal-
endar, is St. Catherine's Day, and therefore the " Name's
Day" of all ladies Catherine. Much is made of the
Name's Day, and complimentary visits of felicitation are
all the go. The name of Catherine is a favourite one in
the fashionable circle. We manifested our attention to
the custom by going at nine in the evening to Princess
Hohenlohe's. We met there Madame YouskoflT, the
mother of the Princess, Princess Sophia Modene, her
sister, Madame PaschkoflT, Marquis De Villafranca, Mar-
quis De Carrega, and a few others. Hohenlohe showed
me his whole house, into which he has just removed;
it is the property of his wife.

I do not recollect to have seen the following anecdote,
which is given me as illustrative of the political finesse
of the Empress, Catherine II., but which is probably an
invention. Charles J. Fox had for some time been very
hostile to Russia and its sovereign in the House of
Commons. The Empress gave a large entertainment at
the Hermitage, to which she invited several distinguished
Englishmen who happened to be here at the time. In

134 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

one of the rooms there was a plaster cast of Fox, which
was surrounded by busts of Cicero, Demosthenes, etc.,
and in this apartment, and near the busts, the Empress
had engaged herself at whist. In the course of the
evening her English guests sauntered into her neighbour-
hood, and, seeing the cast, expressed aloud to each other
their surprise. The Empress frowned, listened for a
moment, and then said to them, " What ! gentlemen, are
you surprised to see that bust in the midst of the great-
est orators ? Do you think me incapable of doing justice
to an enemy ? I can give Mr. Fox the rank to which
his wonderful ability entitles him, even while I suffer
under its exertions." These words were carefully re-
ported to Fox, who soon afterwards became the Parlia-
mentary friend and eulogist of Catherine. The plaster
cast soon gave way to one of marble and another of
bronze.

1838. December 8. — The celebrated Court choir was
visited to-day during one of its public rehearsals. This
musical band — altogether vocal — is especially assigned
to the Imperial chapel. It is said to consist of about
one hundred and fifty voices, though we certainly had
not more than sixty this morning, of whom twenty were
boys between the ages often and thirteen. These chor-
isters are selected with great care in every part of the
empire, by virtue of a standing order which directs
that the discovery of a remarkably fine voice in child or
adult shall be immediately followed by his being for-
warded to St. Petersburg. They are taught and ex-
ercised with great care ; they are said to make the finest
sacred harmony witnessed in Europe. It is so perfect
as to resemble a rich and magnificent organ. I could
scarcely, at first, believe that what I heard was the human

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, I35

voice alone. The effect produced upon those who are
peculiarly sensitive to music is overpowering ; some have
wept, others fainted. The two Embassies and Countess
Strogonoff were there, but the audience was mixed and
did not exceed four hundred.

1838. December 13. — At half-past ten went to a ball at
Count Levaschoff*s. It was exceedingly brilliant. Prince
Hohenlohe apprised me that the diplomatic body would
be invited to attend the ceremony of affiancing the
Grand Duchess Marie and the Duke De Leuchtenberg
on Sunday next, with their respective ladies. This
necessarily involves a special and unexpected expendi-
ture of at least two hundred and fifty dollars, which I
can no more avoid than I could avoid returning the
Emperor's salute as I pass him in the street, and yet I
am expected to meet all such charges out of my salary I

I met at Count Levaschoff's Count Frederick Pahlen,
formerly Minister in the United States. He has been
here for two weeks only, usually residing in the country,
and I heard by mere accident of his being in the room.
He saluted me with great cordiality, remembered the
hospitality of my father, and inquired about many whom
he knew in the United States. I cannot say that I should
have ever recognized him. His manner is ardent, his
hair light, his eyes blue, his complexion florid, his figure
an easy and gentlemanly one, indicating a man turned
of fifty, and he spoke English fluently. He has two
brothers in Paris, one of whom had been with him in
America.

1838. December 14. — A printed programme of the
ceremonies to be observed on the betrothment of the
Grand Duchess Marie was sent to me by the Grand
Master of Ceremonies early this morning. This subject

136 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

is now the absorbing one. The programme as a means
of precise and practical information is defective in several
particulars ; it does not expressly mention the Ambas-
sadors ; it does not specially provide for the disposition
of the wives of the Foreign Ministers ; and it leaves an
impression that the secretaries and attaches are to be
excluded in the parade. In the course of the day we
have also received two invitations, one addressed to
myself, in language that would seem to embrace the
secretary of legation, and the other addressed to Mrs.
Dallas.

During the long and interesting tete-a-tete with General
Tschitcherine, several characteristic anecdotes of Lord
Durham were told. Tschitcherine was his personal
friend, and on all occasions of excitement his confidential
adviser. Durham he describes as a man of fine abilities
and aufondol excellent intentions, but subject to violent
excesses of passion and of inordinate vanity. He set
out with the determination to make himself individually
acceptable to the Emperor, who had delighted him by
his manners on visiting the frigate on which he arrived
in Cronstadt. When the recovery of the Emperor from
the accident of overturning his carriage, by which his
arm was broken, was announced, Durham resolved, if
possible, to make his personal congratulations. He
called on Tschitcherine, and, disclaiming all diplomatic
motive or purpose, asked how he could accomplish his
desire. The General proposed his going with him at once
to Peterhoff, and there ascertaining what could be done.
They started immediately, and on their arrival waited
upon Prince Volkonsky, who was at first entirely at a loss
how to act. Durham suggested the expedience of his
passing off as a sort of messenger sent for inquiry by

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 137

the Chasseur of the British Ambassador, as a mode which
would get rid of forms. The plan was frankly stated to
the Emperor, who laughed at its ingenuity, and kept him
for several days at the palace.

Lady Mary Lambson, the daughter of Durham, rode
out on horseback accompanied only by her brother-in-
law. On passing through one of the gates of the city,
the sentinel, as usual, and as ordered, not knowing them,
offered to stop them merely to ascertain their object.
This is always done as a mere matter of course. Lady
Mary, however, probably unable to understand or be un-
derstood, rode on without satisfying the soldier, who
immediately dropped the huge bar to arrest her progress ;
the bar fell on the rear of the horse, fortunately missing
herself, but frightening and startling the animal. When
this was reported to Durham, he became furious, flew to
Tschitcherine, and, throwing himself into an arm-chair,
gave vent to an ungovernable fit of passion, beginning
with the exclamation, " What do you think ? One of your
vagabond soldiery has been on the eve of killing my
daughter!" Much time and persuasion were necessary
before he could be calmed, and he dwelt with prolonged
exasperation upon the fact that the sentinel had smiled or
grinned when he saw the horse of Lady Mary Lambson
start. Finally, it was agreed that he should make no
mention of the subject at all, except to the Emperor in
person, and then very briefly, and only in the manner of
narrative without complaint. Durham, however, forgot
himself the very next day, and, being at a large dinner
alongside of Count Nesselrode, turned round, and with a
loud, excited voice repeated all the circumstances of the
affair. The Vice-Chancellor strove to stop his vehemence
by calmly remarking that the topic was not one for a large

138 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

and mixed company, at least to be addressed to him.
This only poured oil upon the fire of the enraged father,
and he poured forth a torrent of invective, dropping in his
heat the term " barbarian." The attention of the whole
table had been drawn; the Russians were extremely
oiTended with the manner and epithets of the Ambassador;
his words were exaggerated and circulated everywhere ;
the whole society of St. Petersburg were on the point
of apprising his Lordship that he had gone too far. when
General Tschitcherine stepped in, visited in every direc-
tion with explanatory and soothing remarks, and finally
prevailed in tranquillizing the storm.

In the course of the evening, Mr. Kaiserveldt made
himself very entertaining by a number of anecdotes of
his own personal experience. His description of the
scene which took place at the Imperial chapel when the
young Grand Duke became of age, and took the oath of
allegiance, gave a delightful impression of the domestic
feelings of the autocrat and his family. He says that
the church was thronged with the high prelates of the
church and dignitaries of state; a small table was placed
in the centre, on which were placed the Bible, some re-
ligious emblems, and the written draft of the oath to be
taken ; after some prefatory ceremonies the Emperor led
his son to the desk, pointed to the scroll, and bade him
read attentively and aloud the oath before he signed it.
The young man began audibly and distinctly ; but when
he came to that part which imported that he vowed
obedience and love to the Emperor his father, his voice
faltered, choked, and finally ceased ; he seemed to be
overpowered by his feelings, and wept profusely. The
Emperor, who stood close by, remained motionless and
gave no symptom of agitation except two heavy tears

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 1 39

that rolled down his cheeks ; a second time did the son
endeavour toproceed, but again failed under the tenderest
emotions about his father. The Czar allowed some
minutes to elapse that he might master himself, and
then with all the apparent unmoved dignity of the
monarch pointed again to the scroll. As soon as he
had completed the oath, the Grand Duke threw himself
into his father's arms, where he sobbed aloud for an in-
stant, when, recollecting his mother to be at the side of
the church, he rushed towards her and was received with
an affecting and prolonged embrace. The Emperor, un-
able farther to control himself, went to them while thus
clinging to each other, and encircling them both with
his arms gave way to a paroxysm of emotion. In this
scene, says Mr. Kaiserveldt, there was no acting; it was
a sudden and obviously wholly unexpected overflow
of parental and filial love; it drew tears from all who
beheld it.

A little of the personal history of Count Levaschoff
justifies the highest opinion I had contracted of him
from his manners and conversation and appearance. He
is not what is termed wealthy here ; having an income
of three hundred thousand roubles, or sixty thousand
dollars, only ; but he manages what he has with an
economy and care which enable him to live in the utmost
splendour and with unbounded hospitality. His estab-
lishment is one of the most attractive in St. Petersburg,
and anywhere else would be considered princely in its ex-
tent ; his drawing-rooms are flanked by beautiful gardens
and by an immense green-house crowded even at this
season with luxuriant flowers and tropical fruits, hung
with birds, and lighted up for promenades, etc., accessible
to his guests by wide stone stairways, and at the ex-

I40 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

tremity of this range is a menage where he keeps enough
to accommodate a regiment. He is now, and has long
been, a great favourite among the highest nobility, and
proved his title to their esteem not long ago by the
manner in which he conducted a quarrel with his sover-
eign himself. At that time he had been governor of a
province for some years, and unfortunately had a dispute
with the celebrated Marshal Sacken, using language on
one occasion of considerable severity, but just. Sacken
addressed the Emperor, saying that he was now too old
to publish insults offered to him, but that he devolved
his honour to the care and vindication of his master.
Levaschoff was called to the capital ; he adhered to the
propriety of his course, and was dismissed from his office.
He retired to the rendezvous of all discontented nobles,
Moscow, and seemed resolved not to return to St. Peters-
burg. The Emperor perceived public sentiment to be
entirely with the Count, and frankly and more fully re-
considered the whole subject. In a short time a post
of greater dignity and importance than the one he had
occupied was assigned to him. His friends wished him
to decline it. " No," said Levaschoff; " I will act as the
Emperor has a right to expect, as one sensible of the
extent of the amende honorable thus offered, and I will
finally do what is due to my own honour." He went to
the department allotted to him, then in great disorder ;
he put its affairs in admirable condition, reported in full
upon every branch of its business and interest, and when
the Emperor expressed his gratification he immediately
resigned. Since then he has lived wholly in this city,
has by slow degrees become perfectly reconciled, and
enjoys at present the favour of his sovereign and the
respect of all who know him.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I4I

1838. December 15. — It is now ascertained that the
diplomatic corps, including the secretaries, are all invited
to the ceremony of to-morrow, although the heads of
the missions only will find places in the chapel.

1838. December 16. — ^At eleven o'clock this morning
I went, accompanied by Mrs. Dallas and Mr. Chew, all
en grande tenuCf to the Imperial palace of the Hermitage.
The accumulation of equipages on the river front prob-
ably induced our being invited to alight and enter at the
door in the Milione, as we were driving on. The British
Ambassador and Ambassadress had just preceded us. We
passed through several rooms until we came to the one
temporarily converted into a chapel, and crossing that
we were ushered through two serried lines of brilliantly-
equipped officers along the Vatican gallery or corridor,
and into the apartment appropriated to the reception of
the diplomatic corps. We were early, none of our col-
leagues but Clanricarde and his suite being there, and the
customary guard of grenadiers not stationed until ten or
fiileen minutes afterwards. Lady Clanricarde was hand-
somely and tastefully dressed in a silk of deep blue,
fronted with a costly show of point lace, and having an
extensive train bordered with the same and richly worked
with Roman pearls ; her head glittered with a coronet
of diamonds, whose lustre, however, seemed to fade
when contrasted with those of the Russian Court. Our
associates soon arrived. The Ambassadress of France
wore a gorgeous but obviously old dress, white with a
profusion of gold tinsel, and a train of crimson velvet
embroidered in gold. Countess Schimmelpenninck was
overwhelmed with finery of all sorts and of all colours ;
silver and gold tinsel, jewels of every description, a
train fringed with silver, an upper gown of gauze fretted

13*

142 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

with silver stars, and a half turban. Contrasted with
these, the white satin gown, with light-pink satin train
flounced with tulle, and a head-dress of a few flowers
(the costume of Mrs. Dallas) unadorned by a single
jewel of any sort, struck me as exceedingly modest,
peculiarly suited to an American lady, and, withal, really
much the prettiest. The English and Austrian Am-
bassadors wore their military uniforms of scarlet and
white, only differing in the collocation of the colours, — ^the
first having scarlet coat and white pantaloons, the latter
having white coat and scarlet pantaloons. Baron Barante
was in civil dress, richly covered with embroidery. Baron
Blome, the Dane, resembled the Englishman, except that
he glittered with more crosses and ribbons. Count Rossi,
the Sardinian (whose wife is not yet out of her room),
wore a remarkably becoming military dress of green and
gold, turned up with white. Count d'Appony, the Aus-
trian attache, exhibited his fanciful and favourite costume
of the Hungarian nobleman and ranger. The ceremonies
began by the Ambassadors and Ministers (without their
ladies or secretaries) being copducted, in due order of
rank, to the large and lofty square apartment arranged
into a chapel, and stationed along one side of it, with
their chief, Count Ficquelmont, nearest the door at which
it was known the Imperial family would enter. A screen
of the necessary size, with its external panels beautifully
painted with saints and Scriptural subjects, its parts
movable on hinges, and having two doors in front, was
fixed on the eastern side of the room, and formed the
retiring and preparing recess of the priests. Between
its two doors was the altar, and on both sides of this
screen, within a small low railing, were the Court choir.
Directly in the centre, and at a short distance from the

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I43

screen, was a platform about ten feet square, raised, say
a foot or more, from the floor, and covered with crimson
velvet bordered with gold lace. A small table was on
this platform, and the rest of the apartment was divested
of furniture in order to make room. The large glass
chandelier in the middle was illuminated, and when we
entered there were assembled only a few of the highest
civil and military officers. About thirty of the clergy
officiated, three of whom were of the highest rank, and
one of these the very old, gray-haired, and enfeebled
Metropolitan ; three others were of a secondary rank ;
the bonnets or mitres of these six were worn during
most of the ceremony, and were ornamented with minia-
tures, pearls, and other jewels in great abundance. The
robes of all who officiated were of a material which
resembled rich, thick, cut velvet of a glowing crimson
colour, with golden crosses worked in it in every direc-
tion, and with broad stripes of gold embroidery sunk,
as it were, in the velvet. The manner in which these
robes are adjusted is rather clumsy; they seem to be
thrown over the shoulders, as one would throw a sheet
or table-cloth, when intending that it should conceal the
whole figure, without regard to grace or fitness. We
had not been long in this apartment when we heard the
customary suppressed " husK' which, on such occasions,
precedes the Imperial family, and we, of course, fell into
our line. The " Fourriers Chambellans," etc., in double-
file and in their richest liveries, passed in at the northern
door and went out at the southern one. The Grand
Master of Ceremonies and the Grand Marshal of the
Court, with two or three other high dignities, bearing
large golden square staves surmounted with crowns of
brilliants or gold work, quitted the lengthened proces-

144 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

sion, and stationed themselves at the extremity of the
diplomatic line and in front of the velveted platform.
Then entered the Emperor, Empress, their second son,
Constatine, their two other sons, the Grand Duke Michel,
and his Grand Duchess Helen, the Grand Duchesses
Marie, Olga, and Alexandra, and the betrothed (or
" promis"), the Duke of Leuchtenberg. At the thresh-
old the Imperial party were met by the whole of the
clergy, the Metropolitan at their head, bearing a sump-
tuous silver cross, with a golden full-length image of
the crucified Saviour upon it, and another carrying the
chalice of holy water, drops of which were scattered by
a sort of short bouquet of green leaves. Each of the
Imperial family kissed the cross, held up for that purpose
by the Metropolitan, and his hand also ; and each, bowing
forward as if to approach the chalice of holy water, re-
ceived a few drops, from the bouquet, on the palm of
the hand, which they carried to their lips. They then
crossed the room and ranged themselves immediately
opposite to us, the Emperor leaning his back against
the edge of the open door, through which could be seen
an endless vista of magnificently-dressed ladies, unable
to get accommodations in the chapel. Directly behind
the Imperial family, I was unexpectedly pleased to find
that the ladies of the foreign Ministers followed. My
friend Count Schimmelpenninck had not noticed this;
and when the throng of maids of honour had passed by,
and had (as many as could) arranged themselves through-
out the room, he abruptly turned to me and said, " I
believe I will go home." " What for. Count ?" '* This
neglect of our ladies is not to be borne ; you perceive
they have been left with the secretaries and attaches in
that remote antechamber." Had such been the fact, and

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 145

had I, as probably I should have, encouraged the Count
by the slightest assenting movement, we must have had
an agreeable little flare-up. As it was, I relieved my
colleague by pointing out to him his own wife, safely en-
sconced by my own, close to the Imperial family. The
betrothment began by his Majesty's conducting his
daughter Marie and the Duke to the platform, the latter
being placed on the right of the former, and the Em-
peror returning to his former position. A lighted wax
taper was then placed by two of the priests in the hands
of each of the affianced. Religious exercises followed
in the Greek form, of which I could understand nothing.
Two priests brought on large golden plates the wedding-
rings, and deposited them on the small tables, that of
the Grand Duchess, which I could distinctly scan, was a
very large diamond of extreme brilliancy. The Metro-
politan, with some ceremony, placed each ring on the
finger of its owner ; and after other recitations the Em-
press went forward, took the ring off the hand of Marie
and placed it on that of the Duke, and the ring off the
hand of the Duke and placed it on that of Marie. At
this instant, as if the artillery had actually witnessed the
movement, a roar of guns issued from the fortress on the
opposite side of the Neva, exceeding in number one hun-
dred. The venerable Metropolitan administered to each
of the parties the promise or engagement, reading it from
one of their sacred volumes, and they^ in turn, manifested
their assent by kissing the golden cross he held up.
They then descended from the platform. The Grand
Duchess threw herself into her father's arms, and re-
mained some seconds, cHnging to him under the influ-
ence of strong emotions ; they were embraced by all the
Imperial circle in succession, and here seemed to termi-

146 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

nate the special act of affiancing. The priests, however,
proceeded with their performances, during a short part
of which it was very inconveniently necessary for all who
were present to kneel. The hymn for the safety of the
Emperor, in which the choir joined with great effect, was
delightfully executed. When the whole closed, the Im-
perial family passed out at the door through which they
entered, bowing to us as they passed, and were followed
by the almost endless train of maids of honour, chamber-
lains, etc. The ladies of the foreign Ministers went in
the current and in the order they came, while the Min-
isters themselves were detained in the chapel for some
time, preparatory to their being led, in the direction op-
posite to that taken by the Court, the whole way round
through the interminable saloons of the palace, until they
came to a large and richly>ornamented one overlooking
the river, where they again marshalled themselves in line
awaiting the coming of the affianced couple, to whom
they in due solemnity tendered their felicitations. Here
we had been joined by the secretaries and attaches ; our
ladies being left in the apartment in which they were
originally placed, to receive, first, the visit of the Duke
and his future Duchess. This ceremony gave me the
first opportunity I have had to form any sort of opinion
of the young man so suddenly exalted by the Emperor
by incorporation into his domestic circle, and into the
highest grades of his honours and service. His appear-
ance is prepossessing, though certainly not handsome or
striking ; his manner is polished and unaffected ; he looks
about twenty-one years of age, and is about five feet eight
inches high, with black hair closely cut, arched black
eyebrows, small black moustache, and a lively and ex-
pressive black eye. His complexion is rather fair. His

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I47

nose IS like my own — a mean feature — and he has, when
smiling, a habit of drawing up his upper lip too far, so
that his teeth (not regular nor perfectly white) and his
gums are unpleasantly developed. He left us with ex-
ceeding grace and self-possession. We now retraced our
steps back to our wives, and hurried to our respective
homes.

We were urged to attend the Great Theatre to-night,
as the Court would be there in gala dress, in honour of
the day, and to witness the new ballet by Taglioni, but
declined on the single ground of its being our Sabbath.
Some of the illuminations of the city, which my children
and Mrs. Dallas rode out to see, were uncommonly
splendid.

1838. December 17. — Mrs. Dallas went with me, at half-
past ten, to the French Ambassador's. There were few
there. We met Clanricarde coming away as we went in,
Count Ficquelmont, Prince Hohenlohe, Baron Seebach,
Countess Kreptovitch, Princess Gallitzin, Countess Stro-
gonofT, etc. I got into a long conversation with Barante,
parts of which I desire to remember. I began by ask-
ing whether there were any modern authors in France,
whom he could recommend to me, on the elementary
principles of their law, like Blackstone in England, or
Kent in the United States ? He said there was none :
none but those who wrote merely 9n practice ; that their
code had, as yet, no enlarged commentators. I told him
I had the code, accompanied by the discourses of those
who prepared its various branches, and which I esteemed
invaluable : but that I had presumed France had given
birth to writers on jurisprudence in general, during the
last thirty-five years. He advised me to add to my copy
of the code a copy of the discussions before the Council

148 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

of State, on its provisions, which were conducted in the
presence of Napoleon, and which he says were published
by Ducros. This work he spoke of as of the highest
authenticity and interest. As to the personal agency of
Bonaparte, he remembered a striking anecdote which
recorded one of his best " mots*' and which he thinks
may be found in the discussions referred to. The ques-
tion before the Council was as to the adoption of the
jury. Napoleon was known to be against it; hence,
when the topic came up, most of those present opposed
the institution with great ability and address. After a
protracted session, Bonaparte suddenly turned to the
last speaker with the following question : " Can France
dispense with publicity in legislation ?" " Certainly not,"
was unanimously answered. "Then she cannot dis-
pense with her jury, and must have it."

Barante conceives that as yet the trial by jury has
rather failed than otherwise in France. He complains
that juries are perpetually yielding to feelings of compas-
sion, and do not execute the criminal laws to which their
agency is confined. They either acquit, even in cases
of obvious and acknowledged guilt, or they resort to the
expedient allowed by the code, and declare the crime to
have been committed under extenuating circumstances,
where, in fact, none existed. The selection of the juries
is confined to the electoral class, and they do not exceed
two hundred thousand. Notwithstanding this, he did
not believe that the French juries were as intelligent as
the American. I said, Certainly neither as intelligent
nor as honest, if the character he gave of their verdicts
were correct ; nor would they have ever become so as
long as their functions were restricted to penal proceed-
ings. I regarded the institution, especially in connection ^

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I49

with civil and municipal justice, as the best practical
mode of educating citizens in the knowledge of what
was right and proper, both as to themselves and others.
" This," he said, " might be, but the process of instruction
would be slow in France." " Particularly," I replied, " if
you keep your right of suffrage so limited. But might
not the evil you complain of arise from the character of
your laws ? My experience satisfies me that there are
two things which practically affect the verdict of juries
on criminal trial : if your punishments are too severe,
they shock natural feelings, and will be defeated ; or, if
they be ever so mild, if their infliction be reckless and
demoralizing, the same consequence will ensue, for juries
are averse to subjecting perhaps a first offender, or a
criminal not hardened, to a process of imprisonment and
shame by which his vices must be confirmed rather than
eradicated." He said their penal code was not sangui-
nary; and as to penitentiary discipline, the reports of
those who had visited the United States for the purpose
of examining our system and its operation had not been
satisfactory.

Was there any probability that the right of suffrage
would be extended in France ? Barante hoped not ; he
thought it already too extensive. A poor man, in France,
would not be actually bribed by money, but he would
always be in favour of the person who would defray the
expense of going to the election and would entertain
him while there. Such a voter was not an honest one ;
and yet his observation led him to be convinced that
such would be the result wherever the franchise was ex-
tended to the poor. I asked him if the voter, in order
to vote, had to leave his family and business, and for
how long a time. " Grenerally," he replied, "he must

150 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

give himself up to that duty exclusively, and mostly at
a considerable distance from his home, for three days."
** No wonder, then, that a poor man requires to be com-
pensated or indemnified ; you ask him to exercise his
right by taking the bread out of his children's mouths,
and paying extravagantly for three days of idleness ;
the defect is not in his inability to withstand the law of
necessity, but in your electoral arrangements ; give him
the opportunity to vote near to his home, and without
the loss of more than an hour or two, and he will feel
no inducement to sell his independence."

Countess Kreptovitch (the elder), remarking that she
remembered the time when, thirty or Ihirty-five years
ago, there were but two " modistes'' in all St. Petersburg;
Barante said that on board of a single steamer from
Havre during the last summer there had returned from
their annual visit to Paris no less than thirty of these
fashionable milliners. Count Ficquelmont observed that
thirty years ago there was but one apothecary's shop in
the city ; and Barante added, but one public library or
book-store.

1838. December 18. — St. Nicholas's Day, and of course
the Emperor's " Name's Day." Agreeably to the invita-
tion of the Grand Master of Ceremonies, I went, accom-
panied by the Secretary of Legation, to the presentation
or reception at the palace of the Hermitage at twelve
o'clock. It was in all essential respects like that which
I have described under date of the 13th of January, 1838.
The throng of maids of honour and of military and civil
officers was uncommonly numerous and brilliant.

In the evening, at half-past seven, Mrs. Dallas and my
daughters accompanied me to the ball at the same palace.
Admiral Heyden, the Russian representative at the battle

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 15I

of Navarino, was there: a plain, stolid-looking Dutch-
man, now far advanced in years and stationed in a sort of
retreat at Reval. The Imperial family were all present
and remarkably animated. I overwhelmed Count Litta
in a rapid game of chess, and was challenged for a future
opportunity by Countess Modene and the French Am-
bassador. At eleven o'clock we supped in the theatre,
arranged to form the finest spectacle of the sort I ever
beheld; the whole semi-circle in the rear, at the bottom
of the stage, being coloured glass from ceiling to floor,
and brilliantly lighted from behind. Exquisite music
came from behind the variously-stained glass partitions.
The table of the Empress stood in the centre of the
parterre, glittering with ornaments of gold ; that of the
Foreign Ministers stood just beyond, groaning under the
weight of the most enormous, massive, and beautiful
silver imaginable, the centre-piece being a vase of vast
capacity, in which I could easily have deposited two of
my children, reposing on the backs of four dogs as large
as life, and supported by two human figures at the ends,
all of it richly and delicately worked. This load of
silver would have found its way to the floor through any
ordinary dining-table, and I observed that props had been
placed underneath. In harmony and proportion with this
were dozens of other decorations. Tables were every-
where spread to accommodate fifty, twenty, or a dozen ;
and the Emperor stationed himself tranquilly at one of
the smallest and most retired, between Madame Pasch-
koff and Madame Krudener, and with Count Orloff, the
Grand Duke Michel, the Duke of Leuchtenberg, General
Kissilief, etc. The Ambassadors and Ambassadresses sat
at the table of the Empress. Our entertainment of viands
and wines was excellent. Dancing was resumed for a

152 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

short time after supper, and we got home by half-past
one o'clock, the company breaking up as soon as their
Majesties left.

1838. December 19. — Went in the evening to witness
the representation of the new grand ballet " Hitana,"
prepared expressly for Taglioni. The piece is splendidly
got up, and consists of a succession of magnificent tab-
leaux, without much interest of plot. ** Hitana" in the first
scene is a child of seven or eight years of age, who dances
exquisitely, and is stolen away by the leader of a band
of Bohemian or gypsy strollers. Eight or ten years are
supposed to elapse between that and the second act, in
which Taglioni appears as Hitana and as the favourite
danseuse at a great y?/^ or fair. She is found in the
third at the gypsy encampment close to a water-fall and
amid the most picturesque scenery ; here her lover joins
the band, and the process of his initiation gives occasion
for a number of striking tableaux. In the fourth act,
she has fled for refuge to her original but unknown home,
and she gradually recollects the place and the persons
about her. In the fifth act, there is exhibited a rich,
bustling, and fantastic masquerade, with every variety
of graceful and burlesque dancing. The whole afTair is
ill suited to the peculiar charm of Taglioni, and seems
to lessen her dignity and delicacy. In the scene of the
fair she introduced the Cachoucha, and executed it with
great efTect.

1838. December 25. — A soiree at home for the special
benefit of the children on Christmas night. There were
besides a number of ladies and gentlemen, among them
the Minister of the Interior, Mr. BloudoflT, who in the
course of conversation mentioned that he had to-day
heard described to the Emperor by Professor Yacobi, of

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 153

the University of Delft, a most extraordinary experiment.
In the progress of his trials with electro-galvanism the
Professor procured two plates of brass, linked them
somewhat apart, by a conducting wire. One of the
plates was deeply engraved, and had in the centre a
human figure cut. Having applied the electro-galvanism
for some time, it was discovered, to the amazement of the
Professor himself, that the plate which had been left
plain had received upon its surface the precise figure and
words of the engraved one, except that they were now
in bass-relief instead of excavated. The result was in-
comprehensible and inexplicable, but has since been
repeatedly attained by the same Professor. The Em-
peror, utterly unable to conceive the process, resorted to
pleasantry to express his surprise, and exclaimed, " Why,
at this rate, Mr. Professor, we shall make children by
electro-galvanism."

1838. December 27. — A diplomatic soiree at Princess
Hohenlohe's. The British and French Ambassadors,
Lieberman, Schimmelpenninck, Villafranca, etc. A lesson
given to the Marchioness Clanricarde in the measure and
mazes of the mazourka, for which movement and figure
she is wholly unfit.

1838. December 28. — Prince Hohenlohe, who says that

he was in several of the hardest fights of 18 12, and was

repeatedly wounded, told me that his age was fifty-one,

I had thought him younger than myself. In referring to

the cold and impracticable forms of social intercourse, he

assured me that such a state of things as existed in this

capital was to be found nowhere else in Europe. "I

have been at this Court," said he, " for thirteen years ; I

have married a Russian lady ; I have been constantly in

society, and I have probably become acquainted with five

14*

154 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

hundred or six hundred persons ; but I do not know one
Russian intimately, one whom I can rely upon as a
friend." I told him I thought such a condition of things
was peculiarly the fate of Americans, as they had no
titles, nobility, or European distinction or wealth. He
said, " Not so, not so ; it is the case with every stranger
who enters Russia, let his titles, rank, and riches be
what they may. Come to Wiirtemberg, come into any
part of Central Europe, and I will engage that you
make intimate friendships by scores."

1838. December 30. — Went at half-past ten to Countess
Nesselrode's ; an unusually large and brilliant company
assembled, probably under the expectation of hearing
the newly-arrived and celebrated pianist, Madame Pleyel.
She executed with great power two long and fine pieces
on an admirable instrument of Erard's. The Vice-
Chancellor, always somewhat fussy at home, wriggled
and bravoed in ecstasies. Prince Volkonsky, a young
man, sang two French songs with a rich, round, and
cultivated voice, and Mademoiselle Bartinieff indulged
us with a performance which very few professed operatic
musicians could surpass. Madame Pleyel touched the
accompaniment. She is about twenty-nine, somewhat
tall, with dark eyes and eyebrows, an intellectual expres-
sion, and a good figure. The evening furnished the best
music I have heard since I crossed the Atlantic.

1839. J^^u^Ky 3- — Started at ten a.m. to attend the
funeral obsequies of General Narischkin, the father of
Countess Woronzow, who died at his government in the
interior, of a complaint of the liver, in his fiftieth year, late
in October last. Mr. Chew accompanied me, both in full
uniform, as etiquette exacts. The ceremony took place
at the Church of St. Alexander Nefsky, in the presence

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 155

of a large concourse of distinguished public officers,
military and civil. The routine resembled in most
respects the burial of Rodofinikine. The coffin was
immensely large, containing the embalmed body and
probably one or two more enclosures. It was not
opened, and was lowered into a vault opened in the
floor of the church. Several distinguished ladies were
recognized in the rear of the crowd, — Countess Krepto-
vitch, Princess Razoumoflsky, Madame Scheveits, Mad-
ame Seniavin, etc. They were all in deep black. It is
unusual for ladies to be present. Although to me the
ceremony appeared a tedious mummery, I cannot help
suspecting that it is in many of its parts solemn and
touching to those who perfectly understand it. The
son of the deceased, Dmitri-Narischkin, and Count
Woronzow appeared powerfully impressed, and others
were affected. I cannot, however, get over the ludicrous
form of furnishing the deceased with a passport and a
large basin of rice-pudding ; these are really too absurd
for any age, let alone the nineteenth century. We were
detained here until one o'clock.

1839. January 10. — Agreeably to former invitation, I
went at twelve, accompanied by Mr. Chew, both engrande
Unuey to the Imperial Academy of Science, whose session
was held to-day, the anniversary of its foundation.
Ouvaroff, Minister of Public Construction, is President,
and Prince Dondonkoff Korsakoff is Vice-President. I
failed to catch precisely the name of the Secretary.
The Metropolitan of Moscow, in full and very becoming
pontifical robes, was present, and I had myself presented
to him, being really unable to resist the benignity of
/ his countenance and manner. We mutually regretted,

y through the medium of Korsakoff, our inability to speak

156 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

any language understood by both. His mantle was of
fine green cloth, and his mitre of white cassimere, with
drapery falling behind and over his shoulders. In the
centre of the front of his mitre was a brilliant diamond
cross, and suspended from broad ribbons around his neck
hung several rich crosses of great beauty. His beard
was touched with gray and his moustache was long. I
conjectured him to be about fifty, but was told he was
more than seventy. The French Ambassador, the only
Chef of the corps besides myself there, wore the uni-
form of the French National Institute, — a dark-green
coat, embroidered with a lighter shade of green worsted
in wreaths of laurel ; it was otherwise strikingly plain,
for I presume the cross on the left breast not to be part
of the uniform. We were treated with two discourses.
The first, by the Secretary, of great length, consuming
no less than two hours in the reading, was an exposition
of the doings of the institution during the last year, of
the lives and characters of certain recently deceased
members, and some interesting late discoveries and
writings of the fraternity. Among others, the Secretary
adverted to the singular result of an experiment with
the galvanic battery by Yacobi, which I have heretofore
noted ; and he mentioned that the Academy had estab-
lished with Dr. Herring, of New York, the means of ex-
changing the objects of natural science between the two
countries. The second discourse was, unfortunately for
me, in German; it was read by Mr. Behr, who enjoys a
high reputation as a savant, and its subject was the clas-
sification of animals, showing the adaptation of their
physical structure to the latitudes allotted for their resi-
dence. The Hall of the Academy was a very fine room,
with lofty and painted ceilings, walls adorned with full-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 5/

length portraits of the Emperor Paul, his Empress
Marie, the Empress Catherine IL, the Empress Eliza-
beth, and the Emperor Alexander, and the present
Emperor, and the entablature, composed of a series of
remarkably well-executed bass-reliefs, representing the
employments of laborious industry. The upper end of
the hall formed a large recess, supported by columns of
beautiful marble, in the centre and front of which stood,
on a dark greenish marble pedestal, a colossal bust of
Peter the Great. The President, Vice-President, Secre-
tary, and members, all in full dress of blue embroidered
in gold, arranged themselves at a table which extended
nearly the width of the room, covered with fine green
cloth fringed with gold lace ; the side of the table towards
the audience was unoccupied. The meeting was thinly
attended: hardly two hundred persons were present
Sir James Wylie, Admiral Krusenstern, and Admiral
Rickards were there. I reached home a little before
four P.M.

1839. January 13. — ^At half-past twelve (Sunday fairly
over) went to the masquerade at the Great Theatre. All
the Imperial family were present ; the Empress and her
daughter remaining as spectators seated in their box,
while the Czar, the Grand Duke Michel, and Count
Orloff seemed actively engaged among the crowd in the
idle enjoyment of the scene. No hats are doffed on
such occasions; nor does it seem expected that any
more deference should be shown to the Sovereign than
merely not to obstruct his path. He frequently had
ladies, completely masked and disguised, on his arm,
whom he obviously did not know, but with whom he
was gayly jesting. Several times a lady would excite
his curiosity to know who she was ; and he summoned

IS8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

the Grand Duke Michel and Count Orloff to assist him
in detecting her; but as the laws of the mask are never
infringed, the trio, though uniting in comment and
scrutiny and effort, did not appear to succeed. The
costumes were not handsome or novels and the masks
were comparatively few. The amusement is a dull one,
except to those who connect with it the irregularity and
piquancy of intrigue ; and they are probably very few.

1839. January 15. — We went at a quarter after nine
in the evening to the British Embassy, at which the
Corps Diplomatique generally assemble, and remained
until two in the morning. There was dancing, at which
I was favored with the hand of the French Ambassadress.
The Marquis Clanricarde made himself unusually agree-
able. He described Queen Victoria to me. She was a
little lady, with large gray eyes that turned up impres-
sively, and a peculiarity of bearing and manner which
would make her remarked in any company. When she
is gay, her joyousness is that of an open-faced girl, but
the instant she is serious, she draws down the corners of
her mouth, drops her eyes, and looks intent. She sings
well and reads admirably, filling the largest hall with a
voice and enunciation as distinct as a bell, without the
least exertion.

1839. Jci^^^^ 20. — Interesting public events are hap-
pening on several great theatres. In France, the minis-
try of Count Mole is being driven out by a coalition be-
tween the respective parties of Guizot, Thiers, and Odillon
Barrot, aided by the ultra-Legitimists, and this at a mo-
ment when the country is wonderfully prosperous and
the successful bombardment of the castle of San Juan ^

de Ulua is being proclaimed. It is obvious that matters
cannot stand still in France; and the HoUando-Belgic

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 59

question may be, afler all, the safest vent for an explosion
which may otherwise overwhelm the dynasty of Louis
Philippe and create a general war of the two principles.
France is actually a mercurial democracy, whose start may
be hourly expected. In England, the working classes are
sufiering from want of food, and are assuming the calm
attitude of an inflexible purpose. The arrest of Stephens
on a charge of sedition is calculated to concentrate and
harmonize their efforts. The corn-laws cannot be yielded
to the popular clamour without a resort to other than land
taxes for the payment of the interest on the public debt.
The recent Poor Law appears excessively odious. In the
midst of the excitements flowing from these causes, it is
apparent that a vigorous republican spirit is rising, that
the monarchy, with its girl as chief, is falling into con-
tempt, and that a change of ministry is at hand. The
example of the French opposition will probably be fol-
lowed by the Whigs and Tories, of whom a coalition
will be patched up to resist both the precursorship of
O'Connell and the radical Chartists. Such a coalition,
however, will be deemed so unprincipled and detestable
that it must occasion scenes of violence everywhere.
We must have the Manchester murders repeated before
long. The cry of " No popery !" too, is getting up, and with
really more reason than existed in Lord George Gordon's
time. The civil war in Spain is becoming too barbarous
to be interesting, nor does there seem on either side the
capacity to bring it to an end: endless and useless
butcheries of defenceless prisoners; unceasing changes
of the ministry; a wretched lack of money; a total
destitution of talent, political or military.

1839. J^^^^Ky 23. — Visited and made the personal
acquaintance of the once-celebrated songstress. Made-

l6o DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

moiselle Sontag, now Countess Rossi. She is pretty, —
a round face, fine large white teeth, clear and delicate
complexion, blue ^y^^, and brown hair.

A ball at the British clergyman's, Mr. Law's, with
card-playing and supper, immediately under the church !
Did not get through it all until three in the morning.
Dreadful in every aspect !

1839. J(^^uary 26. — I dined to-day with Sir James
Wiley, and was agreeably surprised by meeting the fol-
lowing mixed company: Count Nesselrode, Marquis
Clanricarde, Prince Mensikoif, Count Volkonsky, Count
Kreptovitch, Count Matuzevitch, Mr. Poletica, Prince

, Mr, , Mr, Hodgson, Mr. Law, Mr. Plinkey,

Mr. Cayley, Mr. Nichols, Mr. Gray, Mr. Maberly, etc.
I had not before seen, except once at ^^ public table of
the English Club, this union of high nobility with high
merchants and shopkeepers. Sir James told me that
the Emperor Alexander had delineated with his own
hands the coat-of-arms he assigned for him at the time
he made him a knight His knighthood was authorized
and confirmed by his English sovereign.

1839. January 28. — Dined with Mr. Hodgson at half-
past five. Sir James Wylie,Sir Edward Baynes, Mr. Bu-
chanan, Mr. Edwards, Mr. Atkinson, Mr. Krehmer, Mr.
Grant, etc. Sir James Wylie was at a loss to know why, as
he had been very intimate with John D. Lewis at that time,
he had not formed my acquaintance when I was here many
years ago. I suggested that he was then probably with
the Russian armies in Germany, and asked him where
he was when Moreau was killed at Dresden. " Close by
him," was the reply, " and I amputated both his legs at
the thighs.*' He then gave me, with his usual garrulity,
a long and not uninteresting account of the particulars

jir THE COURT OF THE CZAR, l6l

of that well-known event. Moreau's first exclamation
to him was, " Qu'il est facheux, mon cher Docteur, que
ce miserable (Napoleon) m'a attrape ici." They were
obliged to move him about a good deal in order to get
him into a place of safety, but Sir James thinks that the
operation had been so fortunate that he would have sur-
vived had not Metternich and the Duke of Cumberland
(now King of Hanover) thrown him into a fever by pro-
longed political conversations. He died on the thirteenth
day after being wounded, at a village called, I think,
Drux. His body was embalmed and sent to this city.

1839. February i. — Lord Clanricarde has experienced
latterly a series of little contretemps which are the sub-
jects of conversation, and are calculated to worry him.
Several gentlemen invited him to join them on a hunt.
They went to Oranienbaum; an estate of the Grand Duke
Michel. While sporting, the party were met by the
keeper, who required them to produce their authoriza-
tions. The only ticket in the possession of one of them
was insufficient, and they were ordered off and their
game taken from them. His lordship returned to St.
Petersburg indignant and mortified. When the matter
was communicated to the Grand Duchess Helen, she
immediately directed a party to be got up for the special
amusement of the Ambassador, and the whole estate to
be at his disposal for the occasion. Having had his
sport, he applied by note to the Grand Master of Cere-
monies to be permitted to thank her Imperial Highness
in person. This note remained unanswered for four
days. He was again indignant and mortified, and went
to his friend General Tschitcherine. The General spoke
to the Grand Duchess, who exclaimed at her own for-
getfulness, but said, " Never mind ; we will put the thing

l62 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

right by giving the Embassy a special soirie tomorrow
night" This was done. Then the Marquis invited the
Grand Duke to come to his house this evening, and, in
further reconciliation, the Grand Duke did so. But, un-
fortunately, the Marquis does not know the established
rule of etiquette here, that he who invites an Imperial
personage to his house must devote himself exclusively
to that personage ; and it happened, still more unfortu-
nately, that on the arrival of the Grand Duke, the Am-
bassador was dancing, so that his Imperial Highness did
not receive the customary attention, and went away again
in less than half an hour. The string of mischances did
not end here. There was a large supper, at which all
the guests were seated. Of course, the signal for rising
could be given only by the Ambassador and Ambassa-
dress ; yet, after a while, as if by a preconcerted plan,
nearly all the company rose, and hurried away, leaving
the Marquis and his lady, with about ten others, still
eating. He is again mortified and indignant.

1839. P^bruary 4. — ^Went to a soiree dansante et musi-
cale at Princess Hohenlohe's. It was principally com-
posed of members of the Diplomatic Corps. We re-
mained till two in the morning. The French Ambassador
answered my inquiries about Berryer, whose ** paroles
foudroyantes" in the Chamber of Deputies produced so
much effect in the recent discussion, by saying that he
was as a mere orator unrivalled, — he is a lawyer, fine
figure, fine action, powerful voice, — but that as a states-
man his opinions or speeches went very little way.
Miss Youchkoff*s execution on the piano was good.
We had several admirable songs, particularly a duet
Countess Rossi scrupulously avoided coming until all
the music was over, as it is understood she will not sing

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 163

publicly. The mazourka degenerated into a romp under
the auspices of Lord Clanricarde, who was quite over-
come with laughter at the accidents encountered by his
attache, young Wombwell.

1839. February 13. — This being Carnival, and the
common sports in full blast on the square fronting the
Admiralty, Philip and I started at noon on an exploration
expedition. We were detained, however, nearly two
hours in the large theatre erected, witnessing rope-
dancing and harlequin transformations. Things were
rather top coarse for our taste, and we pursued the
hunt no farther.

1839. February 15. — ^The Carnival sports on the Ad-
miralty Square are becoming crowded and lively. The
ice hills appear the principal objects of attraction, and
are in constant activity. The procession of equipages,
to-day, was more than usually long and brilliant. I
counted twenty handsome carriages in succession, drawn
by six horses, with coachman, postilion, and servant in
cocked hat and rich scarlet liveries. These are the
pupils of the Imperial institution devoted to the educa-
tion of the daughters of the nobility. The number of
drunken men in the streets hourly increases.

Louis Philippe is unwilling to part with Count Mole.
Marshal Soult is too ill or too much puzzled to form a
fresh ministry, and the French Chambers are first pro-
rogued and then dissolved! Spirits appear to me so
much excited in Paris, and the general tendency of things
so strong for change, that one may anticipate serious
events. The King must govern now decidedly, or will
soon cease to reign,

1839. February 23. — The Emperor is reported unwell.
On Monday last he reviewed some troops at Peterhoff,

164 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

and, while riding over a plain, his horse sunk so deeply
in the snow that he was obliged to dismount and walk.
The snow got into his boots and wet his feet thoroughly.
He neglected the circumstance. On Tuesday he com-
plained, and on Wednesday, a fever coming on, he sent
for his physician. He came to St. Petersburg yesterday,
and is said to be better. Among the court flies one can
perceive great solicitude, accompanied by an effort to
make light of the attack. It is impossible not to specu-
late upon the vast consequences which would imme-
diately result to Russia and to Europe by the sudden
death of this sovereign. His heir is at Naples. The
Empress has no political talent or taste. The Grand
Duke Michel is beloved by the army. The Duke of
Leuchtenberg is not yet married.

1839. February 27. — At half-past ten a.m. I drove to
the Church of St. Alexander Neffsky, to attend, agree-
ably to invitation, the funeral of Count Speransky, Presi-
dent of the Legislative Department of the Imperial Coun-
cil, who died on Saturday last. The Ambassadors of
Austria and France were the only other members of the
diplomatic body present. The Emperor and Grand Duke
Michel were there, the former seeming in some degree to
divide the attention of the officiating priests. The loss of
Speransky is represented as a severe one to the country.
He was remarkable for ability. He had experienced
great vicissitudes of fortune ; was at one time banished
to Siberia, upon the false charge of having secretly fur-
nished Napoleon with the drafts of certain Russian forti-
fications. He had many inveterate enemies among the
nobles, in consequence of his plans for ameliorating the
condition of the boors. He subsequently became Gov-
ernor-General of Siberia. He died after a short illness.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 165

His death produces a succession of official changes.
DaschkofT, the Minister of Justice, takes his place in the
Imperial Council ; my friend Bloudoff replaces Dasch-
koff, and Gournieff, Bloudoff. This is rotation without
promotion.

Prince Hohenlohe, who, with the Princess, her sister,
Madame Youchkoff,and Miss Youchkoff, spent the avant--
soiree with us, says that there is great activity just now in
the department of Foreign Affairs here, and that couriers
are despatching in all directions. As the Belgian ques-
tion would seem quietly inurned, this bustle cannot well
be explained, except by referring it to an alleged com-
munication of Lord Clanricarde to Count Nesselrode, to
the effect that England would no longer put up with
the interference of Russia in her relations with Persia,
and that if they were continued war would be the
consequence.

Prince Hohenlohe told me the following anecdote:

Some ten or twelve years ago, Jerome Bonaparte, now

called Count de Montfort, at a soiree of his own, played

cards with great vehemence. He lost all the money he

had about him, then pledged his rings, and finally laid

his watch upon the table. It was a small gold one, the

back of which opened by a spring. A lady, overlooking

the game, admired the watch, and took it up to examine.

On her attempting to open the back, Jerome immediately

clasped it, and said that must not be done. His wife,

who stood by, insisted upon knowing what was in it;

grew angry, reproached him with having some keepsake

of a favorite there, and finally, bursting into tears, quit the

room. Jerome then opened the watch, showed to all

present that it contained a beautiful miniature of his first

wife (Betsey Paterson), with the remark, "You see, I

15*

1 66 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

hope, that I could not with propriety let her look at
it." The Prince says that it was notorious that he re-
mained deeply attached to his first wife long after their
separation.

1839. March 6. — Sigismund Thalberg gave his first
concert in St. Petersburg this evening at the " Assemblee
de la Noblesse." I had obtained four tickets out of the
nine hundred sold, which were at fifteen roubles, or three
dollars per ticket. We went half an hour earlier than
the appointed time, in order to get convenient seats, but
we found the saloon already crowded. Many had gone
as early as five in the afternoon, to wait patiently till
eight. Everybody of ton and distinction was there,
and the Imperial box was graced by the three Grand
Duchesses, Helen, Marie, and Olga, attended by Baroness
Fredericks and Kitty Tschitcherine.

A great poet, a great orator, a great painter, and a
great musician (composer as well as performer) are
scarcely to be separated on the scale of intellectual
power and interest. Thalberg is the first musical genius
I have ever seen. I had anticipated much, but he more
than satisfied me. He executed on the piano three of
his own pieces, and made the instrument speak in tones
I never imagined it capable of. The vast and discerning
audience testified in tumults of applause to his triumph.
He seems a young man of twenty-five, of rather slen-
der figure, florid complexion, light-chestnut hair, and a
distinct Grecian profile. His personal deportment was
modest, deferential, but perfectly self-composed and calm.
Dressed in full black, with white cravat, and maintaining
a mild but imperturbable serenity, he took his seat at the
piano with the preoccupied air of a young clergyman full
of his first interesting sermon. His first touch carried

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 67

conviction of his excellence. It involved a delicacy, a cer-
tainty, an entirety, which made the note fall in its utmost
perfection upon the ear. As he proceeded, this exquisite
distinctness accompanied him through all the mazes of
his elaborated composition. The instrument seemed
like a wonderful combination of the richest, clearest,
and sweetest human voices.

In coming away, the sudden rush through the ante-
chambers was rather alarming. We got, however, in
the advance group with Count Nesselrode (whose lit-
tle rake-hat made him look as if he had already been
squeezed to death, and who kept screaming for his
weeping and terrified daughter Marie), Princess Solti-
koff, Countess Kreptovitch, etc., and were able to reach
our carriage with no mishap, except the loss of a
breastpin.

1839. March 12. — ^At half-past ten we went to Princess
Hohenlohe's, and remained till half-past two. I played
chess with the representative of Don Carlos, the
Duke of Medina-Sidonia and Marquis of Villafranca;
giving him a castle and a knight, and then beating him.
The company was numerous and gay. Thalberg made
his appearance as a guest, and seemed very much
courted by some of the younger married ladies. He
'':lines playing at such parties, unless engaged for the
purpose, and then his fixed price is one thousand roubles,
or two hundred dollars, for the evening, during which
he executes two or three pieces. Hohenlohe is not
up to such extravagance ; but the pianist finds himself
in pretty constant demand. What orator, statesman,
lawyer, poet, or even novelist has ever been paid at
this rate ?

Galignani mentions a musician, now in London^ whose

l68 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

name I forget, who demands for private concerts a com-
pensation of two hundred and fifty pounds, or one thou-
sand one hundred and eleven dollars a night, and, what's
more, he gets it !

1839. March 14. — ^At half-past four went with Mrs.
Dallas to the splendid dinner of Prince YoussoupofT.
There were about fifty guests. The extent of this
palace and the magnificence of its furniture and arrange-
ments struck us as forcibly as ever. The Prince has his
band of music (the only private one of which I am
aware), and it played at a short distance from the com-
pany, changing its position when the dinner was an-
nounced, during the whole of the entertainment. He
has also a theatre attached to the establishment; and
his household servants number five hundred. There
were present the French Ambassador and Madame,
Count and Countess Benkendorf, Prince MentchikoflT,
Baron and Baroness Fredericks, Prince and Princess
Hohenlohe, Count and Countess Rossi, Countess Mo-
dene, Prince and Princess Sherbatoff, Madame Palian-
sky. Baron Seebach, Mr. SoltikofT, Mr. Bloudoff, Mr.
PolycarpofT, several ladies whose names I did not know,
and a number of military ofllicers. Count Bobrinsky,
my landlord, was there ; and having ascertained, by an
experience of eighteen months, that I was not disposed
to make the slightest advance towards his acquaint-
ance, he sought a personal introduction. On the score
of character and intelligence, he stands very high. I
sat at table between Prince MentchikofT and Madame
Paliansky, both of whom were agreeable ; the Minister
of the Marine very shy about the actual condition and
number of the Russian navy, and the lady amazed to
hear of a country in which husbands were faithful to

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 169

their wives. She thought she would send her daughters
to marry in America. Mrs. Dallas, placed between
Baron Fredericks and Mr. BloudoiT, was as fortunate as
myself in having conversable neighbours. The dinner
was excellent, especially in the last glass of wine cir-
culated, which was " Cape'' or Constantia, of a hundred
years of age.

1839. March 15. — At eight p.m. we repaired to the
Theatre Michel to witness " Un grand concert, vocal et
instrumental, avec des Tableaux- Vivans." The music
was not much. The tableaux were the finest we had
seen on a large scale, and, being managed very effec-
tively, pleased us exceedingly. They were sixteen in
number: i. Lady Percy; 2. Constance and Prince
Arthur; 3. Don Juan and Haidee; 4. Aboul Cassem
and Dardone; 5. Que voulez-vous? 6. Passez votre
chemin; 7. Le repos du soldat; 8. La danse de la
Gitana; 9. Le bon vin de Gordon; 10. Le brigand de
nuit; II. Le desastre de famille; 12. Les maux des
dents ; 13. Le coup de vent ; 14. L'homme qui se nage ;
15. The Devil; 16. Une fille mal gardee. Of these the
8th and the i6th were the largest and most striking. It
was said that these tableaux are sometimes indelicate.
On the present occasion, nothing could be more correct.

Adjourning from the Theatre at eleven o'clock we
went to Countess Modene's, and remained for nearly
two hours. Nothing could be kinder or more after our
own taste than the domestic reception given to us. The
old lady took to her game of whist with Baron Schleinitz,
while her three daughters, Madame PaschkofT, Princess
Shakoffsky, and an unmarried one called Marie, con-
versed and entertained. The green arbours and rich
flowers arranged about the rooms were beautiful. I

170 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

sat in one of the arbours illuminated by a Chinese
lamp and beat Princess Shakoffsky two rapid games of
chess. Our only refreshment was an excellent cup of tea.

1839. March 16. — I went, agreeably to special invita-
tion, to join the dinner-celebration of the anniversary
of the English Club. Count Cancrin was chairman
or presiding officer, and, being stationed at his side, I
inquired as to the new process which I understood had
been discovered for separating gold from silver in the
ore. He told me that it was the discovery of a French-
man at Paris, to whom they had been obliged to pay
one hundred and twenty thousand francs for communi-
cating it; and that its principal merit consists in the ini-
provement of the machinery used. It had, however,
not yet been definitely tested here. He told me that
the mines in Siberia might be considered as yielding
five hundred pounds of gold per annum, or eighteen
thousand English pounds, and that they were enlarging
and improving. They employed thirty thousand persons,
who received a monthly compensation, varying from, the
lowest, fifteen roubles to forty or fifty.

At nine in the evening we went to a musical and
soiree at Madame Polycarpoff*s. The great object of
attraction and source of infinite gratification was the
celebrated composer and pianist, Henselt, who played
on the instrument for nearly two hours, in a style that
quite equalled, if it did not surpass, Thalberg. He is
said to be the natural son of the present King of Bavaria,
and is about twenty-five years of age. He is an enthu-
siast in his art, and while performing seems to become
perfectly intoxicated with the sounds he produces. His
fingering was peculiar and rather disagreeable to the
eye, — ^his hand, a dead white, seeming to lie fiat on the

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 171

keys, and the fingers to roll over each other like worms
or leeches. Occasionally he struck with a force which
the instrument could scarcely resist long. He gives
nine lessons a day, at twenty roubles the lesson, and
his public concerts are always overflowing. It is now
something more than a year since his arrival in St.
Petersburg.

1839. March 17. — In the evening, at half-past ten,
Mrs. Dallas accompanied me to Count Nesselrode's.
The Countess has been absent for three or four weeks,
and we were in duty bound to welcome her return. The
Ambassadors (except the British, who is still confined to
a dark room with a gouty affection of the eye) and the
Diplomatic Corps generally were there. I had an inter-
esting conversation with General Kissilieff, who is highly
esteemed for his administrative ability, and Barante.
The former alleged that there were not more than two or
three Russian merchants in St. Petersburg, that foreign
commerce was wholly in the hands of resident strangers,
and he described the course of it as what we would con-
sider a mere commission business. Hence he concluded
that, though now and then failures might occur to some
extent, there could be no general bankruptcy, no per-
vading crisis, such as seems to happen almost periodically
in the United States, Great Britain, and France. Barante
thought otherwise, and, without explaining the grounds of
his opinion, predicted an early and violent derangement of
trade here. Both these gentlemen seemed to ascribe the
recent calamity of the United States to the inconceivable
number and gambling tendency of our banks. Neither
of them could understand why the American people
were so averse to a national bank, which, as they said,
centralized the financial power ; and it was vain for me

1/2 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

to tell them that, however important and attractive this
very centralization might be in France or Russia, in
America it was inconsistent with some fundamental
principles, dangerous as a lever, and repugnant to senti-
ments which were general when the government was
created, and which have since been confirmed by expe-
rience. Having got the fixed European idea that we
are wholly a commercial people, they argue that what-
ever spurs and facilitates commerce must be a primary
object with us.

1839. March 19. — At half-past ten I went alone to
Princess Hohenlohe's rout. The company was unusually
crowded and brilliant. The Grand Duke Michel took
the extraordinary trouble to come up and converse with
me. As I have never shown the slightest disposition to
court his Imperial Highness, in the manner so custom-
ary among the best here, and as that sort of courtship is
deemed necessary to the slightest favour or notice, I was
as much surprised at his volunteer as he professed to be
at my capital French. He was tired of his effort before
I well got over my astonishment. I am no admirer
of the Grand Duke. Played chess with the French
Ambassador ; beat the first and lost the second game.

1839. March 23. — I have repeatedly met the Emperor
walking alone on the English Quay lately. He looks
thinner, and has less colour than usual. He invariably
stops to shake hands and to make some commonplace
remark. To-day he made me walk a little with him, and
spoke feelingly of the recent illness of the Empress, whom
he called, in imitation of plain republican language, " my
wifeT He spoke English. His manner of walking is
ungraceful, bending at his knees too much, and swinging
his arms from the elbows too actively.

AT THE COUNT OF THE CZAR. 1 73

The Princess Shakofifsky, who spent the avant-soiree
with us, gave an animated account of the recent Persian
Ambassador at this court. He was a young man, scarcely
one-and-twenty. He dressed in the rich and multifarious
costume of his own country, with a number of what
we would call *' morning gowns," which he would often
remove, one by one, as he felt himself, while visiting,
getting too warm. He could not bear to see ladies and
gentlemen dancing together, considering it offensive to
modesty, and at balls kept his eyes studiously upon the
floor ; and yet he esteemed all women as mere objects of
sale; and on one occasion, at the theatre, struck by the
extraordinary beauty of the Countess Zavadowski, he sent
round to inquire at what price she could be purchased.
He was passionately devoted to chess, and obliged the
* young men of his suite to play with him, and always to
be beaten, morning, noon, and night. Once, at a large
party. Princess Shakoffsky challenged him to a game.
He seemed to think it impossible for a lady to have any
skill. She asked him whether she was bound not to win
finally. He replied that he would not play unless she
promised to exert herself to conquer; and they began.
In a short time she checked his king and queen, and
took the latter. He became excessively agitated, and
. summoned to his assistance his four secretaries, who
became themselves apparently much disquieted. The
company clustered round the board, and took sides, and
the Princess received so much and such various advice
as to each move, that she ceased to think for herself,
and lost the game. Early next morning she was waited
upon by the four secretaries, who believed she had pur-
posely lost the game, and who caitie to thank her, as, had

she won it, they would probably have undergone impris-

174 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

onment for a month ! He was in the practice of walking
about with his eyes shut or bandaged, saying that he
wanted to accustom himself to live and move without
seeing, as he presumed he should one day be deprived
of his vision. Since his return to Persia, for some real
or supposed ofience, he has had his eyes torn out.

1839. March 23. — We spent the evening at Madame
Paschkoff's, meeting her mother, La Marquise, and
another old and chatty personage. These ladies com-
plain of the practice recently adopted by governments
of frequently changing their diplomatic representatives
at their Court. In former times, they say, Ministers
remained twenty, thirty, and even forty years, and they
formed firm friendships. Now one is shy in making
diplomatic acquaintances, fearing an early and abrupt
close to them. Certainly ever since my coming the
changes have been numerous. There were several other
ladies, Madame Lanskoy, her daughter, and some young
gentlemen. The little maigre supper, introduced at half-
past eleven, was extremely nice, consisting of fish dressed
in five or six different ways, — one slightly soused, an-
other en papillotte^ with minced mushrooms, a third " a la
befstik** a fourth fried with smelts, etc. During the last
week of the careme they are not allowed even fish, and
live upon mushrooms, potatoes, and leavened bread.
The room in which we sat was adorned with fine and
blooming flowers, among which I noticed a rich white
lilac, and the voice of a nightingale seemed to fill up all
conversational pauses.

1839. March 24. — The average annual quantity of the
famous Russian leather, called yoiifta^ exported during
the years from 1834 to 1837 was 66,637 ponds, or
2,398,932 pounds, in 159.591 pieces. The exportation

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I75

annually diminishes as the manufacture of leather im-
proves in other countries. More than half the amount
exported goes into the different states of Europe.

1839. March 25. — The ''Incidents of Travel in Rus-
sia," by I. L. Stevens, of New York, has amused me
greatly. It is light and superficial, but gay and natural.
In general his descriptions of St. Petersburg are faithful.
He exaggerates a little for effect. Thus, he represents
the Admiralty as having "a facade of marble, with
ranges of columns a quarter of a mile in length." Now,
there is no marble ; about four dozen brick-red plaster
columns, and the length is about one-half the supposed
extent. " The Winter Palace is a gigantic and princely
structure, built of marble." Certainly gigantic and
princely, but not built of marble. " The marble palace
built by Catherine II. for her favourite, Prince Orloff", with
a basement of granite and superstructure of bluish mar-
ble, ornamented with marble columns and pillars," has
no marble about it, but reddish pilasters of rather a mean
appearance, and the blue is scant and mean. The " great
Church of St. Isaac, of marble, jasper, and porphyry,
upon 2l foundation of granite I' \^\)\ certainly be one of
the wonders of art when finished ; and, though its base-
ment be granite, its foundation is unfortunately of piles,
and serious fears are entertained that it will sink, as its
predecessor did, owing to the enormous weight placed
upon the unsteady earth.

1839. March 26. — At seven, Mrs. Dallas, Julia, Eliz-
abeth, and I repaired to the grand concert given by the
Society of Patriotic Ladies for the benefit of their schools.
These ladies had sent me two tickets, and I procured two
others through the politeness of Count Wielnorski. For
the four I paid one hundred roubles. On reaching the

176 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

magnificent hall, the Salle de la Noblesse, we found it
crammed with about fifteen hundred visitors; but seats
had been set apart for the Diplomatic Corps, which we
managed to attain by passing across the elevated plat-
form appropriated to the music, to the opposite side of
the room, very nearly en face of the Imperial box.
Nothing could exceed the splendour of the scene. All
that is noble and fashionable and elegant and tasty were
assembled, the military and ladies richly dressed. The
whole of the Imperial family (except the Grand Duchess
Helen, who is unwell) were present. The Empress,
Marie, and Olga, clothed in white, their foreheads glit-
tering with diamonds, with the two boy Grand Dukes,
Baroness Fredericks, and Prince Volkonsky, were sta-
tioned, like the gorgeous figures of a superb tableau,
in the <:rimson-velvet lined and curtained recess, or
rather small room, just in front of us, while the Emperor
and Grand Duke Michel found their way at an open
door close by, and stood tranquilly in the crowd. Here
were certainly at a coup (TcbU to be seen the elite of St.
Petersburg, if not of all Russia. All the dames and
demoiselles d*honneur, and ladies of distinction, occu-
pied the first ten or twelve benches nearest the music.
All the general officers, with their dazzling epaulettes
and swords, were clustered about, standing. All the
Imperial Council, and the Senate, and the Etat Major
were collected. Nobody seemed to be absent whose
presence could add to the brilliant tout ensemble. The
Ambassadors of Austria, France, and England, the British
Ambassadress, the Prussian, Dutch, and Sardinian Min-
isters, the Saxon, Swedish, and Bavarian charges. Made-
moiselle Barante and her brother, the secretaries d*An-
dre, Edwardes, Kaizenfelds, and attaches d'Appony,

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 1 77

Vrints, Wombwell, young Roger Schimmelpenninck,
Count Nesselrode, Count Woronzow, Count Levarchaff,
Count Wassiltchickoff, General Kissilief, Count Mont-
cillo, Mrs. Dallas, Julia, Elizabeth, and myself consti-
tuted what might be esteemed the group of the diplomatic
section. The concert, which takes place annually, is one
of the contributions of the nobility to charitable pur-
poses. Its performances are executed by the most dis-
guished ladies, and the instruments are managed chiefly
by amateur gentlemen. Countess Annette Benkendorff,
the daughter of the present Governor of the city, and a
young lady whose loveliness would be irresistible but
for a most atrocious squint; Madame Krudener, decidedly
the recognized beauty and a great favourite ; and Madame
Bartinieff, a dame d'honneur in high favour, were the
three most conspicuous of the Russian ladies, aided by
thirty or forty others who formed a line with them on the
platform and joined in the singing. At the head, however,
of the songstresses was the magnet of the evening, the
celebrated and incomparable Sontag, now Countess
Rossi. She had been persuaded to run the risk of reviving
past recollections, to forget that she had stepped from
the boards of the opera into the rank of a minister and
the arms of a Count, and to lead the flower of Rus-
sian noblesse and fashion on this benevolent occasion.
What a splendid triumph did a single gift of nature
seem to obtain ! Her voice overwhelmed competition,
and by its wonderful volume and sweetness produced a
sort of enchantment which made you for a while insensi-
ble to anything else. The Czar, his Court and his Army,
all seemed to lose their prestige and their power while
that magical voice dominated the ear. She sang twice,

first the finale of Donizetti's opera, "Anna Bolena," and

i6*

178 DIARY OF GEORGE Mlf-FLIN DALLAS.

was in this accompanied by Madame Bartinieff and
Madame Krudener and three gentlemen ; second, Bel-
lini's " Norma." The effect of the last song was beyond
description, and the applause was vehement and pro-
tracted. It recalled Malibran to my mind, and yet
seemed superior by the addition to her voice of that of
her father, Garcia. Nothing could be richer, nothing
could be clearer, nothing could be vaster, nothing could
be softer, nothing could be deeper, nothing could be
more delicate, and nothing could be more decided. I
might go on multiplying epithets without describing a
bit more distinctly. On the whole, I think it was the
best singing I ever heard, and as good as can be. The
manner of the Countess was perhaps a little constrained
in the effort to avoid relapsing into the cantatrice, and on
two occasions, instead of confining her courtesy to the

Empress, she for an instant bent to the applauding audi-
ence. I doubt much whether this taste of the glory of
past times was not more really delightful to her than any
of the rank or other results of her marriage. She was
sent for by the Empress at the close of her song, an act
which is the common courtesy shown to professional
songsters, and which has been constantly shown to
Taglioni, — I thought the discriminating delicacy of her
Majesty might have avoided on this occasion.

1839. April 4. — Received a notification from the
Master of Ceremonies of a Court Circle to be held in
the Winter Palace I on Tuesday next.

The discreditable practice of opening letters as they
pass through the Post-Office — a practice said to be uni-
versal, and of which I have had convincing proofs — is
attested by several anecdotes current here, of which I
note the two following. Not long ago one of the For-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 1 79

eign Ministers complained in person to Count Nessel-
rode that he had received a bundle of despatches through
the Post-Office, rumpled, torn, and obviously having
been opened. The Count coolly observed, "It must
have been done very carelessly : I will give instructions
against such negligence in future." On another occa-
sion, the Swedish Minister, meeting the Director-Gen-
eral of the Post-Office, casually said to him that his
subordinates ought to be more careful in their process
of examining his letters; the Director gravely protested
that nothing of the sort was done. '* Oh, I don't mind
it," said the Baron ; "but as in their hurry they sent me
my despatches from Stockholm with the seal of the
Minister of Foreign Affairs of Holland, I think they
want lecturing." The Director only replied with the
exclamation, " Is it possible ?"

1839. April 7. — This being the Russian Easter, all the
churches were crowded at midnight to perform the cere-
mony of welcoming it. The Imperial Court and high
priesthood assembled in the Winter Palace, Mass is said ;
the clergy circulate in their numerous chapels as if to
search for the buried Christ ; they retire behind the doors,
and at a particular moment the holy doors fly open,
when the priests in their fullest costume proclaim to the
people, with exultation, "Christ is risen!" All the
church-bells are immediately in full chorus, salutes of
artillery are fired, and everybody embraces his neighbour
with the enthusiastic outcry, ** Christ is risen I" The
uproar seemed to be prolonged until three o'clock this
morning. The ensuing week is the liveliest carnival.

1839. April 10. — The reoccupation of the Winter Palace
has been signalized by splendid ^'gratifications'' from the
Emperor to those who have contributed to its reconstruc-

l80 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

tion. General Klein-Meliel has received a loan of one
million of roubles with which to purchase an estate, and
the Order of St. Andrew, with a gold medal surrounded
by brilliants. Count Cernicheff received as a gift three
hundred thousands roubles, and it is supposed will be
sent Ambassador to Vienna, a post for which Benken-
dorff and Clien-Mehel are his competitors. All the
subordinate labourers on the Palace have received silver
medals, and now parade them on their breasts at the
Cachelles. At this season of every year it is customary
to distribute more or less of these Imperial favours.

The mortality among the workmen engaged in re-
building the Winter Palace is represented to have been
frightful. As the Emperor had undertaken to re-enter
during the feasts of Easter, immense heat was kept up
in the interior to dry the walls, etc., and this produced
all sorts of fatal disorders. Of course, this effect of his
will was not communicated to his Majesty.

1839. -Ap^ 14- — The Court Circle, intended to have
been held at the Winter Palace on Tuesday last, was
deferred, owing to the fatigue and indisposition of the
Empress, to this day, at noon. I reached the Diplomatic
reception-room without traversing much of the residue
of this magnificent, newly-finished structure. The base-
ment affords accommodations for any crowds of servants ;
and the white marble stairway leading to the upper
story, with its lofty, painted, and gilded ceiling, and its
ornamental statuary, is vast, striking, and beautiful. The
apartment assigned to the Foreign Ministers was one
in which a small and handsome throne occupied the
centre of a large recess, immediately in front of a paint-
ing of Peter the Great guided by Wisdom ; its walls
were of crimson velvet studded with gold double-headed

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. l8l

eagles somewhat larger than a man's hand ; from the
vaulted ceiling hung the richest and tastiest chandelier
of solid silver, chased and worked into oak-wreaths en-
circling Russian eagles, the immense size of which sur-
prised me ; against the walls a number of lustres of the
same rich and solid material, each six or eight feet high,
exquisitely elaborated, were attached, and in two piers
stood wide tables of pure silver. The mixture of gold
and silver, though it seemed to increase the gorgeous
display, detracted from the taste of the ensemble. The
steps and floor of the platform on which the throne
stood were carpeted with rich crimson velvet ; the rest
of the floor was figured and waxed wood.

1839. April 15. — I procured tickets for the admission
of my family to explore the Winter Palace, and we re-
paired thither at one o'clock. We entered by the great
central door on the river-side and mounted the noble
marble staircase, whose solid, carved, and polished ban-
isters of the same material particularly struck us. We
travelled rather too rapidly through this vast building;
except the quarters designed for the Duke and Duchess
of Leuchtenberg, and some of the largest halls or
saloons, especially that of St. George, not yet quite fin-
ished, we visited in succession the great saloons of State,
and of banquet, and of dance, the Imperial Chapel and
the private Chapel of the Emperor, the " Salle des Mare^
chattx" the suite of private apartments appropriated to
the Empress, another suite appropriated to the Czar,
another suite to the Grand Duchesses Marie and Olga,
another suite to the Grand Duke Heritier, another suite
to the younger sons, and an infinite variety of halls,
antechambers, corridors, and galleries, which cannot be
particularly designated. In surveying the endless elab-

1 82 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

oration of work of all kinds bestowed upon this build-
ing, one is utterly at a loss to. comprehend how it could
be executed by human means in the course of the brief
interval between the conflagration and the present mo-
ment. An exclamation to this effect involuntarily
escapes the lips as you enter each one of the more im-
portant chambers. The Imperial Chapel alone, with its
minute and various carving and gilding, would seem to
have necessarily exacted more time. Every department
of art, from its humblest to its highest region, — architec-
ture, painting, sculpture ; all the mechanic arts ; the
working in gold, in silver, in brass, in iron, in glass,
in all sorts of woods and stones and cloths, — with the
heads to arrange and direct, and the arms to procure
and fashion and fasten material, must have been put
under high steam pressure without abatement or cessa-
tion. Nothing more exquisitely luxurious, costly, and
refined can be imagined than the private apartments of
the Empress. They remind one of the descriptions in
Lalla Rookh, of the Moorish Alhambra, of Sardana-
palus, and of the Arabian Nights. Her parlour, with
its ponderous golden doors, pilasters of malachite,
screens of cut glass variously coloured, arched ceiling
beautifully painted, and corresponding furniture and or-
naments ; her bedroom, with its coverlid, an entire piece
of point lace about ten feet square, reposing on a sky-blue
satin bed, and its toilet- table with more than a hundred
elegantly shaped and worked vessels and mirror frames,
all of massive gold; her Turkish bath-room, with its
soft, deep, impalpable carpet, its fantastic walls, its fount,
its shell-reservoir, its white marble basin, and its adjoin-
ing mirrors; her elysian bower, with the vast sunken
bath, and its white marble walls and stairway, and its

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 1 83

jet d*eau in the centre, with flowers and shrubbery
ever blooming and fragrant around; her rose-coloured
tea-room, which seems to the eye like a bouquet of deli-
cate roses ; her family sitting-room, with the miniatures
of her husband and children fastened to screens that
encircle lounges, and the thousand knickknackeries of
precious stones, and the delicious paintings of Raphael,
and the carved ivory boxes, and the beautiful full-length
statue of herself in one corner : all these and many ad-
ditional may be noted, but cannot be described except
in the poetical language of Tom Moore, Washington
Irving, or Lord Byron. There was a striking and agree-
able difference between these apartments and those of
the Autocrat. In the latter, nothing was feminine, every-
thing elegant, commodious, nothing useless or trifling.
He has no bed, he has no carpets, he has no toilet-
table, he has no knickknackery. Such also were the
rooms of the Grand Duke. The Grand Duchess's, on
the contrary, partook of the delicacy and luxury of the
Empress's. I noticed that his Majesty has transferred
Horace Vernet's Review by Napoleon from the Hermit-
age to a corner of one of his private apartments. The
two paintings by Vanloo, in the principal parlour of the
Duchess Marie, are exceedingly well selected and beauti-
ful. We penetrated into the room assigned as the sanc-
tuary of the Imperial crown jewels through immense
folding-doors of iron ; but the glass cases in their golden
frames were patiently and in emptiness waiting for their
destined contents. In the chambers of the younger
children was a room provided with a small sentry-box,
two small muskets, and the posts used in front of guard-
houses as props for arms : this is the military closet of
the two Grand Dukes. In one of the rooms of the

l84 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLm DALLAS.

Empress I was pleased with the apparent h'ghtness and
finish of the sofas, chairs, and tables ; they were of iron,
highly polished, and looking like the most fragile
ebony.

1839. -Ap^il 17. — No stranger can pretend to ascertain
with any certainty the military forces of this Empire.
Official records (the only sure proof) a.-e, of course,
locked in impenetrable mystery. Conversation with
the highest functionaries on the subject is never other-
wise than vague and speculative. Most of thepi are in-
tentionally kept ignorant, and the Very few who really do
know something about the matter with precision, deem
the details of a nature to justify their being wary and
evasive. Generally, there is an obvious tendency to ex-
aggerate the number of the army and navy ; but, at the
.largest estimate I have heard or seen, the Russian army
IS not such as to warrant the impression that prevails
through Europe and elsewhere of the colossal power of
the nation. Let us see.

The most overrated accounts represent the Russian
military — that is, the organized regular army — as ex-
ceeding a million. I do not doubt its being at least
eight hundred thousand. Is this enough to make Rus-
sia a permanently formidable and dangerous power?
It should be recollected that an army is only formidable
to other countries as it may be moved and directed
abroad. If it cannot quit home, however strong for pro-
tection it may be, it is nothing that need be feared.
Now, the government of this vast Empire, in all its rami-
fications, is conducted by and through its army; the
whole machine is an encampment. The police is mili-
tary ; the collection of the revenue is military ; the public
institutions of all kinds, which are very numerous, are

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 185

under the care of the military; the mint, the banks, the
great schools, the palaces, and Imperial estates are in
the management and custody of the military. So much
of the army as is thus engaged is without the power of
locomotion ; there is nothing to take its place and per-
form its duties as a substitute, even for the shortest time ;
there is not and cannot be anything like a militia. To
maintain civil government, then, at home must exact the
constant presence of a large proportion of the million.
Then, again, there are certain duties universally re-
garded as of a strictly military character which, never-
theless, divide, weaken, and keep stationary another
large proportion. The frontiers are extensive, and must
be guarded • the colonies require fixed protection ; the
garrisons, forts, arsenals, war academies, foundries, etc.,
must be kept going. If to these considerations you add
the broad and practical necessity of securing a despotism
against popular conspiracies and frenzies, by an unceasing
display of bayonets and troops, what becomes of the lofty-
sounding and dread-inspiring million of soldiers? I
should say that three-fourths of them, however effective
for domestic purposes, are nothing, perhaps worse than
nothing, in relation to their capacity to do mischief
abroad. Even for defence, they are not comparable to
our million and a half of militia, simply because, accord-
ing to the existing system, they must everywhere dis-
charge essential municipal duties, and are thus incompetent
to movability or concentration.

Taking the million, therefore, as a correct cipher of
the Russian army, its real warlike, disposable force can-
not exceed 2CX),ooo or 250,000 men. I mean to say they
cannot cross their frontiers with a larger number to assail
others. And if so, Austria has her 750,000 men, Prussia

1 86 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

her 450,ocx), Bavaria her 70,cxx),and the rest of the German
Confederacy its 400,000!

1839. April 19. — Tchiacheff, who was strongly recom-
mended to me by the Emperor for his intelligence, told
me in confidence yesterday that his Majesty's energy of
character had been signally tested during the last win-
ter, — he had repressed no less thanyS?;//' formidable con-
spiracies. This is the first Russian whom I have met
with that will venture to talk on such a subject. He has
travelled a year or two in the United States.

At eight o'clock, expecting to meet all the Imperial
family, we went to the ball at Prince YoussoupoflPs.
The Emperor and Grand Duke Michel attended, but the
Empress excused herself by sending word that her physi-
cian advised her staying at home, and all the Grand
Duchesses remained with her. The interest of the even-
ing to me arose from the presence of Marshal Paskevitch,
with whom I had several agreeable chats. He is a younger
man than I had supposed, has a lively air, and is frank and
agreeable in conversation. He told me he was fifty-five.
His decorations, crosses, and orders were extremely bril-
liant, glittering on his left breast and from around his
neck like a huge mass of diamonds. The Czar, after his
usual kind shake of the hand, said he had not been to a
party for nine weeks ; that he wanted to induce his wife,
whose health was bad, to stay at home by setting the
example. Everybody agreed in considering the enter-
tainment the most splendid which could be given in
Europe by any person below royalty. The whole of the
magnificent house was thrown open, and I have seen
nothing here to surpass the elegance of the ballroom
and the great supper-hall, which communicated by a
columned passage, at first crowded with flowers and

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 187

curtained. As two harmonious and united apartments,
they are not surpassed by anything at the Winter Palace
or Hermitage. They are of white mock marble; the
ballroom, an immense square, with splendid pilasters,
its ceiling arched and richly painted; the banqueting-
room, a vast oblong, with vaulted ceiling carved in re-
lief, and supported by twenty immense Corinthian col-
umns of the purest and most polished white, with two
galleries, one at each extremity, for music. Nothing
could transcend the magic of the supper : its groves of
orange-trees, towering eight or ten feet above the heads
of the guests, and laden with fruit and flowers; its gor-
geous arbours, prepared for the Empress, over which
hung in clusters ripe, red, white, and purple, intermingled
with leaves, grapes of the largest and most luscious ap-
pearance ; its gorgeous and glittering table ornaments ;
its golden chandeliers; its dazzling company, and still
more dazzling liveried servants. When from these two
rooms the eye passed to the adjoining ones, to the ante-
chambers, the refreshment saloon, the endless suite of
halls and galleries devoted to paintings and sculpture,
the card-rooms, and the expansive branching stone stair-
case, flanked with marble statues and fragrant with ex-
otics, it was difBcult to suppose the whole the creation
and property of a private subject. He is said, however,
to enjoy an incalculable revenue. He is, however, suffi-
ciently noted already in the Diary. I could not help
thinking that the Empress stayed away, not because of
any real malady, for she walked on the English Quay
this morning, but in order to avoid witnessing or coun-
tenancing a fete that approached too near the Imperial
style to be agreeable in a subject. The poor Princess,
who had hoped to make it worthy of her mistress and

1 88 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

her guest, looked the picture of despair when told that
she could not come.

1839. Ap^il' 20. — ^The evening spent at the soiree dan-
sante of Countess Schimmelpenninck. I met here most
of the diplomatic charges and secretaries, the ladies
Shakoffsky, Serriavene, Paschkoff, Soltikoff, Brunoff, Plei-
cheyeff, Chevietz, Cavacoff, etc. Among the gentlemen
were Villafranca and General Danieleffsky. I had with
the last a long and interesting conversation on the con-
dition and history of Russia, and the characters of the
Emperors Alexander and Nicholas. His mind is turned
closely to these subjects, and he is now actually pre-
paring for the press a work on the campaigns and policy
of the late autocrat. He accompanied Alexander as
confidential secretary throughout all his great move-
ments from the year 1804. He recently finished a por-
tion of his history, and sent it to the Emperor for perusal.
Shortly afterwards, while riding on the English Quay, he
saw his Majesty walking, who made him descend from
his caleche. " Savez-vous, mon cher," said he, " que
votre ouvrage m*a coute bien de larmes!" He then
spoke of the excellent heart and forbearing temper of his
deceased brother in the tenderest manner, and declared
that he had described the gentleness and wisdom of
Alexander amid crosses and obstacles which would have
made hbn " crever de colere." Danieleffsky looks upon
Nicholas as a man of extraordinary energy and most de-
termined purpose. " And think of such a person," ex-
claimed he, *' avowing that he had wept over a narrative
of his brother s virtues and trials ! Such a monarch to
talk of shedding tears 1"

Among other matters, I remarked to Danieleffsky
that I felt surprised at their retaining, in a country like

AT TIJE COURT OF THE CZAR, 1 89

this, the law for the equal distribution of intestate estates,
abolishing primogeniture; that their aristocracy must in-
evitably become poor and lose their consequence ; and
that we regarded such a law as the very corner-stone of
our republicanism. He replied simply, this is a despot-
ism. Our Senate now merely records after attesting the
Imperial ukases. Peter the Great once made an ukase
establishing " les majorats," or the right of primogeniture.
The nobles soon felt their independence, and in less than
twelve years the Senate, while recognizing Peter's title
to the throne, had advanced so far in their pretensions
that they presented for his signature a written constitu-
tion of government! The law was certainly not the
exclusive cause of this, — great political results require
a combination of causes, — but it was the leading cause,
and Peter abolished it without delay. Thus, when
the object is the same, the abasement or destruction of
aristocracy, a republic and a despot must pursue the
same course.

1839. May 2. — The ice began to move downward just
below the bridge this morning. It remained stationary,
however, opposite the English Quay, until half-past nine
in the evening, when it moved slowly, and the bridge was
swung to the inland shore.

The Emperor met young Meyendorff with a com-
panion near the Boulevards the other day. He was on
horseback, they walking on foot. Having been long
absent from Russia, the young men did not know the
person of the sovereign, and of course omitted the cus-
tomary bow. His Majesty immediately dismounted,
went up to them, and reprimanded them sternly. They
in vain pleaded their ignorance of his figure. He or-
dered them to proceed forthwith to the guard-house,

17* ^ I

igO DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

and, upon their remaining stationary, not knowing
where the guard-house was, he called up a sentinel,
and directed him to accompany them to the prison.
They were extremely alarmed, wept bitterly, and were
immured for some hours in a wretched cell. At the
expiration of that time, a guard announced to them that
the Emperor had ordered them to be escorted to the
Anischkoff Palace. They went, expecting little short
of Siberia or decapitation. When at the palace, they
were stationed near a corner of one of the apartments,
and then left to themselves. They were surprised to
notice that several young ladies now and then popped
their heads in at the door, and, looking at them for an
instant, retreated laughing. At last the Emperor came
in, and, walking towards them, said, " Young gentlemen,
you have had lesson enough for the present. I am sure
that you will know me hereafter, wherever you may see
me. And now, to remove the impressions of the day,
come and dine with my family and myself."

As an illustration of the extent to which the most im-
portant matters are subject here to Imperial whims, I
got the following from young Count Nesselrode: The
Empress, having written a letter to her father, gave it to
a servant to put into the hands of a courier, then waiting
to start. The servant, misunderstanding the order, de-
posited the letter in the post-office, and the mistake was
not discovered until five or six hours had elapsed. In
the meanwhile, the regular mail for Prussia, and, indeed,
all Western Europe, was made up and despatched. As
soon as she was told what had been done, the Empress
sent an express to command the whole mail, bag and
baggage, back to St. Petersburg. About fifteen hours
were lost. Everything was reopened, the Imperial mis-

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, I9I

sive recovered and placed in the courier's care, and then,
but not till then, the mail allowed to resume its journey.

1839. May ^. — An Imperial *' Cerc/e" at noon in the
Winter Palace. It was more than usually brilliant, es-
pecially in the attendance of a throng of Senators in
their full dress costume of scarlet, embroidered with
gold, and white underclothes. The Emperor asked me
which one of the American Legation had recently gone to
the United States. I told him no person ; that a merchant,
some four or five weeks ago, had been given a courier's
pass, but no individual attached to the Legation had left
it. He said somebody had told him otherwise, and he
could not conceive who it was that had gone. The
Empress asked particularly about Philip, whom she
said she saw often on the quay. One of the family of
the Austrian Esterhazys was presented. His dress was
Hungarian, exceeding rich and becoming, but very
fanciful.

1839. May 5. — A great ball and supper given by their
Imperial Majesties at the Winter Palace. Mrs. Dallas
and I repaired to it at half- past eight. There were said
to be a thousand persons present ; among others, two
tinselled and ugly Queens of Georgia. With all its
magnificence, it was dreadfully tedious and fatiguing.

1839. May 10. — For the first time this spring, we
walked in the summer gardens between two and four
o'clock. The alleys were crowded with fashion and
rank, and among them all the ladies of the Imperial
family. There is, however, not a symptom of verdure
or vegetation, and the air, notwithstanding the bright-
ness of the sun, is rather chilly. The river is free from
ice at present. The Emperor has been feverish, and
again leeched.

192 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Dissatisfaction prevails in Ethonia and Livonia with
some recent attempts to control and abolish certain of
their ancient usages and rights. It is said to be a plan
of BloudofTy Ouvaroff, and Daschkoff, to which they grad-
ually persuaded the Emperor to assent A deputation
from the provinces has recently been here, and was
favourably received by his Majesty.

The Emperor, it is said, entertains the design of
obliging all the public officers, civil as well as military,
to be always dressed in their official costume. He has
meditated it for some time.

1839. May 12. — ^The antic flourishes of Imperial parade
made by her Majesty and her eldest daughter at the sum*
mer gardens to-day, with changes of dress and equi-
page, transcended the idle and ludicrous ! The Empe-
ror was ill, or I do not think he would have permitted
them.

1839. May 27. — This being the day following Pente-
cost in the Russian calendar is a high holiday, and in
the afternoon and evening is celebrated by immense
crowds promenading to bands of music in the summer
gardens. In the olden time it is said to have been cus-
tomary to parade the marriageable girls of the mechanical
peasants that they might be seen and be offered for as
wives. There is nothing now amusing or attractive in
the proceedings; the throng is mostly composed of
lounging men; the peculiarities of national costume are
disappearing ; and as to female beauty, it would seem to
be rigidly proscribed.

1839. June 7. — Rose this morning, after long and
serious reflection, under the solemn conviction that it
was my duty, at all hazards, to take my family home
this summer, and, if my recall were not sent before I

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, I93

reached there, to abide the decision of the President
whether I should return here myself or not. I accord-
ingly inquired into the best modes of quitting, and find
that my most convenient and economical course will be
to proceed hence to Havre on board the steamer The
Paris, on the 24th of July next. I must set about pre-
paring for this.

1839. June 25. — Strange and interesting rumours are
afloat. It is said that the intended wedding in the Im-
perial family, which was appointed for the 2d of July,
will be postponed till September. Some ascribe this to
the interference of the mother of Prince Leuchtenberg,
who cannot consent that her grandchildren shall be all
brought up to the Greek Church, as the Emperor has
insisted ; others ascribe it to the necessity of waiting
till the great review at Borodino shall be terminated;
others to the continued illness of the Empress ; others
to the universal repugnance manifested by the Russian
nobility to the match. Most persons agree that, if once
postponed for any cause, there is danger it will not take
place at all. Another rumour is of political moment, — that
Ibrahim Pacha is about to lead his army, in alliance with
Persia, against the British Indies.

1839. J^^^ 27. — Agreeably to arrangement, went at
half-past nine in the morning, by the railroad, to Sarsko-
Selo. We had with us Madame Daschkoff and Mr.
Chew. On arriving at the car-office at Sarsko, we hired
five double-seated droschkies, and drove en cavalcade to
see the gardens and their wonders. We first entered
the great and older Palace. In the chapel, which was
of Chinese order, rich black and gold, a mass was
quietly performing by two priests for the repose of the
soul of the late Grand Duke or Emperor Constantine.

194 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

The quantity of carved gilding was beyond description
in all directions. I stepped off one dining- and dancing-
room, ornamented at each end with shelves on shelves
of ancient China vases, and found it to be one hundred
and fifty feet in length. The apartment, completely cov-
ered with amber, some of it most exquisitely cut, is
more curious than handsome. It was a present from
Frederick of Prussia to Catherine II. The room, whose
floor is worked with mother of pearl, rather disappointed
expectation ; but the agate room, though small, is ex-
ceedingly beautiful. The cabinets are all in great luxury
and taste. But the most delightful portion of this vast
pile is certainly the lofty colonnade erected by Catherine
II., which commands the most beautiful prospects, is
reached from the gardens by a gigantic stairway adorned
by two huge bronze statues of Heventer and Peace, and
is enriched by a succession of fine bronze busts of ancient
worthies. Among the latter I detected, at a distance,
the head of Fox, by NoUekens, executed in 1791, and
stationed between those of Demosthenes and Cicero.
At a distance was seen a pavilion on the grassy margin
of a large lake, which on examination I foynd to contain
some beautiful marbles, especially two Turkish busts, a
male and female ; and in another direction rose an obe-
lisk dedicated to Sumaroff. Some fine swans are re-
posing near the water. On quitting this Palace, we took
again to our droschkies and proceeded to what is called
the large garden, into which we drove in search of various
objects of notoriety and taste. The mock ruin of a
chateau first attracted us ; and we here saw the statue of
Christ, of pure white Italian marble, executed by Dan-
necker in 1824. It was standing alone in a gloomy and
desolate apartment, and seemed almost to furnish the

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I95

only light we had. The drapery is a long delicate shirt,
and suggests the idea that the artist intended to repre-
sent our Saviour as he rose from the sepulchre. There
was something fine in the clear brightness of this tall,
pure figure contrasted with the sombre-seeming desola-
tion around it. Our next visit was to a collection of
llamas, whose necks and heads struck us as remarkably
graceful and spirited, the round black eye especially, —
although they in general bear so near a resemblance to
young camels. We thence went though numerous and
beautiful windings to the antique armoury; and here
we were treated with a sight of uncommon interest and
splendour. The Emperor has collected a vast number
of almost every description of ancient armours, particu-
larly those of the early Sclavonians and those of the
middle ages connected with chivalry, and has adapted
them to figures, both on foot and on horseback, so ad-
mirably, as to represent to the eye the use and character
of each perfectly. One hall has the Round Table in it,
with mounted knights encircling it, in the full equip-
ment of steel, some in the act of making battle, and
others receiving the reward of valour. The immense
swords, double-handed and rapiers, the richly-cut and
emblazoned shields, the casque of every shape and con-
trivance, the enormous stirrups and rowels, the battle-
axes and lances, the chain hangings, and the various
trappings to protect and adorn the horses, all were in
reality before us and in exquisite distinctness and truth.
Several smaller halls were similarly filled with full-sized
images and innumerable weapons. Here was the veri-
table sword of Tamerlane, one of Dmitri Ivan, one of
Peter the Great, many that had been successfully em-
ployed by great Russian generals, and Turkish sabres

196 DIARY OF GEORGE' MIFFLIN DALLAS,

of •distinction and inconceivable richness. Hanging on
the walls were instruments of chase and sport as well as
of battle ; and the splendidly-carved horns of many a
noble huntsman are identified by their labels. We were
particularly shown the spy-glass and portfolio of Napo-
leon taken at Moscow, the latter divided into compart-
ments for notes or memoranda, with gilt labels of " Le-
gion cfHonneur,'' '^ Ministre de CInterieury ^^ Marine ^ etc.
In one room, carefully locked and sealed in glass cayes,
which stood upright and open to the sight on all sides,
were the gorgeous and invaluable horse-trappings pre-
sented to the Emperor by the Sultan Mahmoud at the
Treaty of Adrianople. The saddles, housings, holsters,
and bridles are covered with diamonds, some of which
are as large as a good-sized chestnut, and most elegantly
worked in wreaths of flowers. The knobs of the pistols
are huge diamonds, the handles of the swords and their
scabbards are strewn with the same dazzling profusion,
and the vast stirrups are of solid gold. Nothing can
surpass the magnificence and beauty of these articles,
truly worthy to come to such a sovereign as Nicholas
from the successor of Mahomet and Saladin. We were
shown a boot that had been nearly worn out by Charles
XII., of Sweden, and our ears were stunned, though
pleased, by a Chinese gong which was struck by our
attendant. We all regretted the necessity of leaving
this interesting museum, whose arrangement was so
perfect and whose contents were so inestimable, without
being able to give more time for a thorough examina-
tion. Our course was then directed to what is called
" The Farm,'' that is the Dairy, and the residence of the
cattle. The cows and bulls were superb animals, — Eng-
lish, Dutch, Tyrolese, and Bohemian ; nothing could be

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. I97

fatter, fuller, more contented and more clean. They
were literally living in clover, which, fresh cut, was
collected in heaps, ready for their mouths. Their
palaces were commodious and as fragrant as a pail of
new milk ; defended on one side from the sun by white
curtains, and painted and kept perfectly white. One of
the palaces is for their winter accommodation, closer
and warmer than the other, which is open and cool.
The creatures seemed to revel in sober delight with
their Imperial fare, lodging, and condition, and gazed
on us in all the good-humour of conscious luxury.
The region of milk, cream, butter, and cheese, with its
sweet atmosphere, its ice-house, its spring-house, its
storehouse of various crockery, and, finally, its snug
parlours prepared for the accommodation of the Imperial
family whenever they thought proper to drink the bever-
age peculiar to the place, or to eat the sour cream much
in vogue, were all inspected and admired, while we were
guided by a young German woman both neat and pretty.
The sheep were not at home. I inquired the way to the
horses, expecting to have a view of th6 present stables
and their glorious inhabitants, but was directed to a
building of less interest ; it was the stable of the " Pen-
sioned Steeds." These were the aged and worn-out
favourites of the late and present monarch: one had
borne Alexander when he entered Paris, and another
had carried Nicholas against the Turks ; one was called
Fritz, another Matilda, etc., and none were less than
twenty-seven years of age. Several seemed scarcely
able to stand. Great attention is paid to their food and
comfort ; they are walked out a certain distance every
day for exercise on the green sward, but no bridle,

saddle, or anything of the sort is allowed to remind

198 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

them of their past vassalage. Among them was a
favourite riding-horse of the Empress and a pony used
by the present Grand Duke Alexander when a boy.
On one side of this building, and under the shade of
aloes and beeches, are erected some five or six granite
tombs, each covering the remains of a dead horse, whose
length and peculiarity of service, name, age, etc., are set
forth as in ordinary monumental inscriptions. The man
who ciceroned us among these graves spoke of their
contents with a most pathetic manner and tone.

We were obliged, for want of time, and feeling the
fatigue of more than six hours of exertion, to forego
visiting the many other objects of curiosity with which
these celebrated gardens abound. Driving off. therefore,
on our return to the village we only stopped at the noble
Palace in which the Imperial family usually live when
at Sarsko. Although hurried and exhausted, it was im-
possible to restrain our exclamations of delight as we
passed through this vast suite of splendid apartments.
What paintings ! A pyramid of flowers by Voelchens !
Delicious studies by Horace Vernet ! Italian pieces of
the finest style ! Then the furniture and its accessaries 1
The cabinets of the Emperor, which he has crowded
with delineations of the different uniforms of his soldiery
in all parts of this great camp, or has ranged on shelves
and in glass cases exact models, about two feet high, of
every company of his glittering cavalry, and on long
tables diminutive copies of his brazen artillery and
mortars, deserved a day to themselves, but we could not
give them five minutes. Madame Daschkoff, who seized
a chair for repose whenever our attention got irresistibly
fixed, pointed out the wooden hill or smooth, inclined
plane at which a maid of honour, in the act of sportively

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. igg

descending, had the misfortune or carelessness to strike
against and completely knock over no less a personage
than the autocrat himself! The columns in front of this
Palace, and which form a lofty colonnade from two of
its sides, struck me as uncommonly graceful and effective.
We proceeded to the hotel of the railway, ordered and
ate a beefsteak, which was really very good, or which our
appetites made us think so, and getting into the cars at
four o'clock reached home pretty considerably tired out,
but indescribably gratified by our excursion.

1839. July 8. — Received this evening from the Master
of Ceremonies three copies of the printed programme of
the ceremonial of the marriage of the Grand Duchess
Marie and the Duke de Leuchtenberg, and of the Court
fetes which are to follow.

We went this evening to visit Countess Laval at her
country residence. While there, our coachman, in a (it
of rage, beat the postilion so cruelly that his life is de-
spaired of. I was obliged to send Mrs. Dallas and my
daughters home in the carriage of Mr. Harris; and,
having given the police-officer, called to the scene, per-
mission to take the coachman into custody, I finally
persuaded two of Count Borke's servants to drive me
into the city, leaving directions that a physician should
be procured and every attention paid to the injured
postilion, who was removed to a hospital.

1839. July 9. — Having received our " billets d'entree,"
we went this afternoon to see the " trousseau" of the
Grand Duchess Marie. It is displayed in the "Salle
Blanche" of the Winter Palace. The throng of visitors
was immense, producing a heat and a pressure nearly in-
supportable. Our party got broken into detachments,
and we were obliged to move along with the dense tide,

200 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

without being able to see all that was exhibited, or
to examine anything closely. The Court dresses, with
their rich embroidered trains, were the most conspicuous
objects, and were certainly very splendid. I counted in
all one hundred and forty dresses, most of them exceed-
ingly elegant, and some of them morning wrappers
trimmed with lace. The four sets of jewelry were in
two large glass desks. The toilet-tables and their orna-
ments, one of chased silver and the other highly-worked
silver-gilt, were strikingly beautiful, — the former pur-
chased as a present for his sister by the Grand Duke
Alexander on his recent visit in England. Nothing could
surpass the collection of furs, the Cashmere shawls, the
countless bonnets, the laced and worked pocket-hand-
kerchiefs, and all the et ceteras of a fashionable toilet.
The services of porcelain and of silver and of silver gilt,
each of great taste and execution, and apparently calcu-
lated for the largest scale of entertainment, formed, to
my eye, the richest part of the display. Glass, in its
most attractive shapes and in vast quantities, loaded
several tables. The table-cloths, napkins, etc., were end-
less. Even the culinary apparatus was admirable. In-
deed, it was impossible to imagine an article of use or
ornament with which a bride should be provided that was
not here in utmost perfection and in exhaustless quantity.
The whole was truly imperial, and must have cost very
little, if at all, short of a million of dollars.

On returning from the trousseau, we visited the im-
mense ship of 1 20 guns in the new Admiralty which is
about being launched. She is completely ready to glide
into the water, and only waits a nod from the Emperor,
who will probably add that spectacle to the others with
which he proposes to signalize his daughter's marriage.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 201

She is called The Russia, is 206 feet long, and the largest
in the Russian navy, except one in the Black Sea, called
The Three Saints. The iron-roofed shed under which
she has been built is one of the lightest, neatest, most
beautiful structures I ever beheld.

1839. July ID. — Count Nesselrode apprised me by note
yesterday that he would receive me at his office to-day at
two o'clock, and I went accordingly. I explained to him
that I had my letter of recall ; that I proposed going by
the Tage on the 24th instant, and I wished him to have
my passport prepared, for which I left him a written list
of my family, and that I hoped to have my audience-of-
leave as soon as the fetes of the wedding were over. He
politely assented to all this, and hoped that on my return
to the United States I would be an advocate for con-
tinued friendship between the two countries. I had
enumerated, among my family, Alexander, my Russian
servant, who intends to accompany me ; and the Count
requested me to send to him the passport Alexander had
obtained from the Governor of the city, that he might
see that it was all right.

Count Bobrinsky called on me, and sat, inquiring
about America, for a full hour. He promises to visit the
United States as soon as the Grand Duchess Olga, to
whom he is attached as chief Chamberlain, is married.

Received the regular diplomatic invitation to the
approaching wedding and its fetes.

1839. July 12. — The news from the Sublime Porte con-
tinues to agitate, as the Sultan is said to be much worse,
and the conflict between the Turks and Egyptians is going
on. The Russian Czar is understood to be expressly
bound by treaty to aid the Turks. Count Michel

Woronzow, the Governor of Odessa, and one of the

18*

202 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

most distinguished nobleman of the Empire in wealth,
character, and influence, came to see me this morningi
and remained, in various and interesting conversation, for
more than an hour. He is remarkable for the unaffected
simplicity of his manners and his intelligence on all
topics. His left breast and neck were literally covered
with orders, among which was conspicuous the Cross of
St. George. He told me that all the great powers of
Europe were in accord in the opinion that peace ought
to be maintained, if possible, between Mahmoud and
Mehemet Ali, but that appearances were just now very
unpromising. In speaking upon the progress of human
discovery and science, he remarked that the application
of steam to propelling vessels through the water was, in
fact, very far from being a modern idea ; that he had
himself read a passage in an old Spanish author, named
Vilarete, in which it was as clear as language could
make it, that an ingenious mechanic had undertaken
the experiment before Charles V., and that, though he
failed, its practicability was asserted by the historian,
though he alleged that the machinery would be always
liable to burst. So, also, he said, that during the reign
of Louis XIV. a Frenchman was visited at an insane
hospital by a celebrated English nobleman, who after-
wards claimed the merit of discovering the steam-engine ;
that the alleged madman was so called and treated sim-
ply because he had over and over again pestered the
chief of the Department of the Marine with earnest en-
treaties for pecuniary assistance to enable him to show
how vessels could be navigated by steam; and the Count
mentioned an authoress in whose works the whole of
this last statement was made. The great merits, however,
of Fulton were admitted as unquestionable.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 203

1839. J^^y ^A' — At twelve o'clock, accompanied by
Mrs. Dallas, I went to the Winter Palace, agreeably to
invitations, to witness the marriage of the Grand Duchess
Marie and the Prince Maximilian of Leuchtenberg. The
foreign Ministers and ladies, after waiting with the gen-
eral company for some time, were escorted by Count
Woronzow to the chapel, and arranged on the two sides
nearest the chancel, forming an alley for the Imperial
cortege. We noticed that two pairs of pigeons entered
at the open windows, and alighted, after flying around
the dome, over the altar, — ^an incident that may have
been accidental, but which many conceived to be the
result of design. The Metropolitan and a concourse of
twenty or thirty priests, robed in rich vestments of crim-
son thickly crossed with gold embroidery, and with
mitres glittering with jewels and enamelled pictures,
some bearing the sacred image, and others carrying wax
lights, stationed themselves at the grand entrance to re-
ceive the Imperial party. Everybody wore their richest
clothing ; all the ladies having long trains, all except the
diplomatic ones having the kakoshnick brilliantly studded
with diamonds or otherwise ornamented. The bride
wore a superb diadem of diamonds, and on the very top
of her head a crown of the same description. Her train
was an immense one of crimson velvet, deeply bordered
with ermine. Of the religious ceremonies I could under-
stand nothing ; they were exceedingly tedious. There
was an interchange of rings between the bride and groom,
effected through the agency of the Metropolitan. They
sipped the consecrated wine from the same golden gob-
let, and during a part of the proceeding — for about
twenty minutes, \»hile the Metropolitan was reading
to them — golden crowns were held above the heads of

204 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the couple, — over that of the Grand Duchess by her
brother the Hereditary Grand Duke Alexander, and
over that of the Prince by Count Pahlen. At one time
the couple were led, with their hands united, by the
Metropolitan, three times round the altar. At the close
of the ceremony, the groom led his bride to the Em-
peror, by whom he was directed to embrace her, and then
followed the family felicitations and kissing. The Court
choir performed the great Te Deum most effectively, and
the cannon of the Fortress, aided by peals from all the
huge bells of the innumerable churches, sent forth a
deafening and yet exhilarating uproar. After kissing
a number of the priests in succession, the Imperial cir-
cle left the Greek Chapel and went to where a tempo-
rary Roman Catholic Chapel had been constructed in
some interior apartment, and the marriage ceremony was
here performed again. We got home as expeditiously
as we could at about four o'clock.

At eight o'clock we repaired to the " Bal Pare" at the
Palace, La Salle Blanche, an apartment of extraordinary
magnificence, its one hundred and twelve Corinthian
columns, and the balustrade above them, with its im-
mense chandeliers, having, since we were last in it, been
most richly gilt. Here, also, all the ladies wore trains.
No dancing was executed but the polonaise ; there were
no refreshments; and the ceremony lasted only for
about two hours, the fatigues of the day being too much
for the strength of the Empress. Among the remarkable
costumes seen on this occasion were those of the Sultan
of Kirghis, with his retinue, come to make presents to
the Emperor on the marriage of his daughter, and of a
Queen of Georgia. The Marquis of Anglesea, too, and
his son were interesting objects.

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 205

1839. y«/K 15. — We were bound to be at the Great
Theatre " en gala'* at eight o'clock. I was assigned by
the Director a box in association with Count Rossi.
The performance was a dull ballet, only relieved by
one capital scene, representing a theatre crowded with
spectators, before whom a danseuse was making her
debut, while we were supposed to be behind the scenes.
Nothing, however, could equal the brilliancy of the
coup (Tosil presented when the whole audience rose to
greet the entrance of the Imperial family into their box.
The Grand Duchess Marie, as the bride, came in first,
and was saluted with vociferous acclamations, then her
husband, then the Empress, and, lastly, the Emperor.

I noticed yesterday during the wedding ceremonial an
air of abstraction or preoccupation in his Majesty, and I
find it to have been caused by the arrival of news of the
death of the Sultan Mahmoud, who has by will directed
his son, only eighteen years of age, to be under the
guardianship of one of his sons-in-law until he attains
twenty-five, and who directed the other son-in-law to be
forthwith strangled. Nicholas seemed to-night to have
in a measure recovered his spirits.

1839. July i6. — Escorted Mrs. Dallas, at two o'clock,
to the Palace, where the Grand Duchess Marie received
the congratulations of the ladies of the Diplomatic Corps,
and subsequently those of the gentlemen. The Duke of
Leuchtenberg accompanied her. We were also received
by the Hereditary Grand Duke, whose travels during the
last fifteen months have greatly improved his appearance
and manners. He is stouter, readier, and more manly.
He expressed great regret at our intended departure.
At this presentation, the Marquis of Anglesea walked
up to me, and said that he could no longer wait for

206 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

an introduction, that he must introduce himself; and he
went on to express his warm gratitude for the kind at-
tentions which his son, a naval officer, whom he called
up, had experienced on his late visit to the United
States, hoping that I would be particular in mention-
ing to the President, whom he had personally known in
England, his sense of his civilities. His son united in
these sentiments, adding that the two months he had
spent in America had been the happiest of his life.
The Marquis is a striking figure, with white and sparse
hair, erect in carriage, always in hussar uniform, and
having a false leg so well made and fitted that, while he
is stationary, the defect is imperceptible. He told me he
was seventy-one, after I had guessed sixty-two.

At eight o'clock in the evening, we again returned
to the Palace to a ball. It was crowded. The Em-
press and Grand Duchess Helen strongly expressed
their regret at our departure, the latter with apparent
and most attractive sincerity. During the evening I
beat an Admiral four successive games of chess.

1 839.y«/K 1 7. — ^Went, engrande tenue^ at eleven o'clock,
to the new Admiralty, and witnessed the launch of the
120-gun ship, the Russia. The spectacle was very im-
posing, — the Empress on the water in her brilliant
steamer, the Emperor and Grand Dukes in barges of
twelve oars with flags flying, and a number of gig-brigs
saluting. Count Woronzow, of Odessa, told me that the
Warsaw was the largest vessel in the Russian navy.

1839. July 18. — Fete at the Palace of the Grand Duke
Michel; though not so vast, more finished, elegant,
and tasty than those heretofore witnessed, — a fountain
in the ballroom, playing about twelve feet high, and
falling into a basin crowded with flowers and golden

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 20/

fish; a balcony of great extent, hung with varied-
coloured lamps, carpeted with crimson cloth, command-
ing a most beautiful lawn and distant prospect, and
regaled by a noble band of music stationed under the
trees. The supper was admirable, and the Grand
Duchess Helen went round to her guests with unusual
spirit and grace. The Empress broke away suddenly
from the head of the table, and left the room ; the Em-
peror scampered after her. The heat was intense.

1839. July 21. — Count Nesselrode, at the Prince of
Oldenburg's last night, informed me that the Emperor
would give me an audience-of-leave on Tuesday next
at PeterhofT. Mrs. Dallas and her daughters and myself
would take leave of the Empress at the same hour.

1839. J^^y ^3- — Started for Peterhoff at about six a.m.
Soon after arriving, a written notification was circulated
from Count Ficquelmont, purporting that the Austrian
Archduke Albert would receive the Diplomatic Corps,
at apartments assigned for him about five versts off, at
one o'clock. I went with Mr. Chew. The ugly Prince
improved in my estimation by the ease and intelligence
of his manners. A handsome lunch was prepared for
us, and we dined en grande tenue at about four o'clock.
During our dinner, a tremendous storm of rain, thunder,
and lightning arose, the effects of which were dreadful
upon the bay, crowded as it was with all sorts of vessels
in anticipation of the fetes of the evening. Several ves-
sels sunk, and many sail-boats were upset ; some hun-
dreds of lives were lost. We concluded that the great
illuminations were marred. They were at first counter-
ordered or postponed by the Emperor ; but, upon the
gust clearing ofT, fresh notice was given. I had driven
with Julia, in a court droschky, round the grounds, and

208 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

witnessed the immense preparations made. As soon as
our dinner was over, we began our arrangements for the
"bal masque/' appointed for seven o'clock; and, the
court equipage drawing up at the hour, the company,
having first refreshed themselves with an excellent cup
of tea, proceeded to the Great Palace, headed by the
Master of Ceremonies. Immediately upon my getting
through the vast throng which impeded all the avenues,
Count Woronzow apprised me that the Emperor was in
his Cabinet to grant me an audience-ofleave. I shall
ever remember this conference with pride and delight.
It convinced me I had not lived in Russia without doing
public service and achieving the reputation I desire.

The Emperor was cordial, kind, and full of feeling.
He first addressed me, after we had shaken hands, upon
my personal motives for returning to the United States.
" At the moment," he said, ** when we all have learned
to appreciate you and your family, and when my whole
court, without exception, are cherishing the best dis-
positions for you." I answered with the undisguised
frankness due to such an inquiry from such a man;
told him that my private affairs, the education of my
children, and my limited resources compelled me to quit
him, and that I felt deep regret at a necessity which I
could not control. He again seized me by the hand,
and assured me that he heard it with sincere pain and
sorrow, and hoped that, if ever fortune should improve
my ability, I might again visit Russia, and desired me
to be sure of a hearty welcome. I told him that I de-
rived some consolation in the reflection that I left him
*'au comble du bonheur;" that I could distinctly per-
ceive in the happy marriage of his daughter a source to
him of unbounded and unalloyed gratification, and that

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 2O9

all I had had the happiness to see and hear of the Prince
of Leuchtenberg satisfied me that his confidence was well
founded. He received this remark with apparent delight,
and grasped my hand anew and said, '' I believe him to
be an admirable young man, worthy of everything I am
doing for him, and that he will make my child perfectly
happy. You are right in thinking me at this moment
as happy as a father can be." I then indulged in the
trite reflection that the period of attaining such content-
ment was the one at which philosophy told us we should,
in this unstable world, be most prepared against change
and adversity. This thought seemed congenial to his
mind: his countenance varied its expression from joy
to melancholy, and he replied, giving it at once a
special direction, " Yes, the ill health of my wife gives
me much anxiety. I cannot persuade her to omit any-
thing she deems a duty, and to refrain from exposure or
fatigue. She becomes daily more feeble ; and now, she
insists upon going through the distractions of this fete,
its intense and crowded heats and all its labours, as if
her health were perfect." He then recurred to our
political relations; was happy to know that between
him and the United States there could exist no senti-
ments but those of the most friendly character, and
hoped that I went away under the same impression. I
told him that my attention to the subject had produced
a conviction that our highest interests as a nation were
identified with those of Russia. ** Not only are our in-
terests alike," said he, " but (with emphasis in his tone)
our enemies are the same." We recurred freely to the
fact that the political institutions of the two countries
were radically and essentially different ; " but," he re-
marked, '' they tend in each to the happiness and pros-

2IO DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

perity of their respective inhabitants ; and I am engaged
in introducing some liberal ameliorations, particularly in
the department for the administration of justice, which
I hope will be attended by most salutary effects." I
commented upon the necessity, however, of his having
an eye to everything, and he said, that^ under the cir-
cumstances of Russia, was a vital duty.

I handed him my letter of recall, which, he observed,
he very reluctantly received, and he laid it on his desk
without breaking the seal. We again shook hands, and
I left him. Count Woronzow met me, in great haste,
saying that the Empress was waiting to receive me.
Mrs. Dallas and my two daughters had just taken leave
of her. There was obvious impatience all round to
commence the ceremonies or gayeties peculiar to the
evening, and I went through as rapidly as was consistent
with respect.

I then put off my sword, and put on my Venetian or
domino, and entered the bal masque. A more absolute
jam of human beings, of all sorts, conditions, grades,
forms, physiognomies, gaits, costumes, and tongues, can-
not be conceived. The heat in the halls was intense. The
polonaise immediately began, led off by the Sovereigns,
before whom, as they advanced, turning in every zigzag
direction, the compact mass gave way and opened an
avenue for the brilliant train of courtiers, officers, and
fashionables, almost as if by magic. On one occasion,
as the glorious file came forward, I found myself screwed
tight and motionless between two Kirghese Khans, some
Chinese, and one or more Russian serfs, but, falling back
resolutely, I caught the eye of the Emperor, who saw my
predicament and effort, and exclaimed aloud in clear
English, •* I beg your pardon, sir !" to which I had no

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR, 211

time for replying except by a bow of the head and a
smile. Shortly afterwards, I perceived him approach
Mrs. Dallas, and, with the polite inquiry, " Oserais-je vous
demander pour une polonaise ?*' lead her, repeatedly, by
the hand through the apartments. He congratulated
her upon her intended visit to Paris ; said it was a mag-
nificent capital, and that many years ago he had attended
one of the most beautiful balls given there: and he
repeated to her the regret he felt to part with us.

A splendid supper was served apart from the crowd
at about nine o'clock, and the chamberlains having ar-
ranged the parties which were to occupy the several
lignes classified numerically, each carrying eight persons,
and the number being about thirty, destined for the
principal persons of the Court, we lefl the table, and
hurried, amid some confusion and mud and wet, to the
equipages. Ours was No. 3, superintended by Count
and Countess Borke. All being comfortably seated,
the Czar and Czarina, in the van, gave the order to pro-
ceed, and off we went for a drive of an hour through all
the labyrinths of illumination and amid the finest displays
of water-works I ever beheld. The scene was as won-
derful as any of the creations of Aladdin's wonderful
lamp. There could not have been less than five hundred
thousand lights, arranged in every possible form, creating
a bright day, shining in reflection from the beautiful
lakes, and glistening behind cascades, extending into
dazzling alleys of a quarter of a mile in length, forming
obelisks of vast heights, or spanning in arches the rivu-
lets which intersected the walks. The great " Jet d*Eau,"
the Samson or Hercules, with countless others in all di-
rections, sparkled and rumbled most musically, while a
host of festive frolickers, estimated by Count Borke at two

212 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

hundred thousand, opened into avenues, as the cavalcade
advanced, in front of the tents which were pitched for
their enjoyment and accommodation within the open
spaces of the gardens. Fine bands struck up at certain
distances from each other ; and in one of the widest and
longest alleys of glowing fire, the court cortege, in order,
as it were, to heighten their pleasure by seeing and saluting
each other, turned round and passed repeatedly. It is,
however, impossible adequately to describe the details or
wonders of this extraordinary spectacle. To me and
mine it was perfect enchantment, realizing and surpassing
all we had read or anticipated.

We drove to our quarters about one in the morning,
and, bent upon achieving our regulated plan, we hastily
changed to our travelling dresses, packed up our finery,
bade adieu to our friends, among whom we must ever
affectionately remember the Barantes, the Hohenlohes,
the Buteras, the Rossis, etc., and pushed forward for St.
Petersburg. Here, however, began a fresh and exhaust-
less source of surprise and amusement. The entire road
from Peterhoff to the capital was crowded with vehicles
of every possible kind, forming three, and sometimes
four, lines, and occasionally coming to a dead stand-
still. The droschky, the kibitka, the telega, the omni-
bus, the caleche, the carriage, the huge diligence were
all in succession before us, and apparently without end,
crowded by men, women, and children, in all sorts of
motley wear, and with all the ludicrous appearances which
follow fatigue after frolic. We laughed especially and
heartily at the infinite variety of dozing, nodding, and
drunken drivers. As our chasseur was on the box, our
coachman found his way with ease and safety. We got
home at four o'clock, pretty considerably -exhausted, but

AT THE COURT OF THE CZAR. 213

unwilling to retire or lie down until a finishing hand was
put to packing trunks and boxes for the departure at
noon. The astonishing, brilliant, and interesting scene
of the last twenty-four hours constitute a subject for
much reflection and permanent delight.

1839. J^^y 24. — We embarked in the steamer for Cron-
stadt, from the English Quay, at two o'clock.

HOME'S BEFORE US.

Away ! away ! from sweUing hearts

Our thoughts flit o'er the main ;
Away ! away ! love fleetly darts

Back to its nest again :
Exulting voices hjrmn in chorus,
We're free to fly, and home's before us I

Unmoor the bark, expand the sail.
Catch ere it droop the fav'ring gale.
The sun, himself in search of rest,
Now lights our pathway to the west.
Shake off the dust of foreign strand,
And bound we to our native land.
In vain to stay new friends implore us :
We're free to fly, and home's before us !

We've voyag'd through
^ The ocean blue ;

Our steps have trod
On varied sod.

And novel skies have glitter'd o'er us.
Tho' shone the sea
Sublime and free,
Tho' Briton's Isle
Could charm awhile,
And Russ and Dane
Wove friendship's chain, —
Away! awayl
Love rules the day ;

We're free to fly, and home's before us \
19*

214 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

But see ! within our track advance
The sparkling lures of lovely France.
'Mid Europe's beauties, shall we fail to call
On her confessed the siren of them all ?
A wreath of glory girds her hair ;

Her eagle glance high lore discloses ;
With melody she fills the air,

And floats a grace o*er clouds of roses.
Sure we may pause, ere yet we speed along,
To taste her wisdom, fancy, fame, and song.
Think of her Opera and Institute^

Her " Chateau'' and •« Palais^'
Her Fanny Elssler and her Marshal SouU^

Her Gui9oi and Moli;
Think of her Grand Httel des Invaiides,

Her « Boukgrn"* and " Bmlevards^''
Of dead Napoleon and his living deeds,
Of " Champa' and « Ma^m'selle Mars;"
Think of her " Pirela-Chaise'' and " Chambre des Pairs;*

Her " Gnsi*' and " Cuisine,"
Her " Trds Glorieux" and glorious Thiers,

" La Morgue" and Lamartine;
Think of her deep Catacombs, so solemn !

Her " Mardi Graf' and " Boeuf,"
** Immortelles" fading on the column,

" Old HenH" on " Pont-neuf!"
Think of " les Jardinf' (though their flowers be few)

Crammed with savage creatures,
*< Les Barricaded' and ImUs Philippe, who

Courted Abby Peters.
Think on this galaxy 1 then think again,
Last, though not least, on truffles and champagne I

Away ! away I Affection fond
These bright attractions looks beyond.
And sees beneath our parent skies
Love's outstretched arms and wooing eyes.
And hears soft accents in the air
Bidding us haste for rapture there.
To them ! to them, may Heaven restore us I
We're free to fly, and home's before us !

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES.

1857— 1861.

aiS

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES.

1857. December 3. — ^The opening of Parliament by the
Queen in person was altogether a handsome and sugges-
tive ceremony. Here in a vast and rich hall was in fact
concentrated the great British empire, — royalty, princes,
peers, nobles, bishops, law-judges, and commons. Her
Majesty wore a crown of brilliants, and jewels sparkled
over her person. Her principal garment was a dazzling
skirt of striped golden stuff, and she removed from her
shoulders a heavy cloak of crimson velvet bordered
with ermine. She was preceded into the House of
Lords by a number of high officers, who bowed to the
yet vacant throne as they passed it. She was handed
up to the throne by the Prince Consort. On her imme-
diate right stood Lord Winchester, bearing at the end
of a gold stick a large red velvet cap, termed the cap of
maintenance ; on her immediate left was Earl Granville,
holding with fixed solemnity of manner the huge and
decorated sword of state. The Lord High Chancellor,
Cranworth, was next to Lord Winchester, and held in his
hand the address, which he subsequently handed to the
Queen to read. Lord Lansdowne carried a crown upon
a cushion. The Princess Royal and the Princess Mary,
of Cambridge, seated themselves in front on the wool-
sack with their faces to the Queen. The chamber was
full of elegantly dressed ladies, but there was not a

crowd of peers« The address was read as soon as the

217

2l8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Commons with their Speaker appeared at the bar, and
silence had succeeded their obstrejferous entry. It was
well read, though certainly the Queen manifested a
slight and attractive agitation. There was much to
gratify in the whole performance ; but it seemed to me
that its chief charm arose from its being headed by an
exemplary lady not yet old enough to have lost grace
and beauty. Her husband occupied what might be
regarded as a secondary throne on her left beyond Earl
Granville. She read the address sitting. Almost im-
mediately on closing, she rose, and the Prince Consort
led her out, both bowing to the audience. Prince of
Wales not present. Prince William of Prussia was.

I went to the House of Commons at four. Various
notices of motions. Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sir
G. C. Lewis, one of a bill to indemnify the Bank. Lord
John Russell, one to abolish Jewish disabilities. The
Queen's address read by the Speaker. Disraeli spoke
against the Ministers with ardour, force, and length, on
the three topics of Bank, India, and Reform. He was
briefly and good-humouredly answered by Lord Pal-
merston.

1857. December 4. — The launch of the Leviathan is
still slowly but safely progressing. She has yet to
move down two hundred and fifty feet, and must do so
without farther material interruption, or the high tides
may fail her. Sent a crowded bag for the Canada to-
morrow.

1857. Decefftber 5. — Weather unusually bright and
balmy.

The American papers mention the death of General
Hamilton, of South Carolina, by drowning, in conse-
quence of a collision of steamboats on the Mississippi.

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 2I9

I knew him well; a brave and honourable as well as
courteous gentleman. ^

Mr. Bright, by a printed letter, postpones his appear-
ance in the House of Commons until after the holidays.
He is timid on the score of his recovery, and hesitates
lest his mind may not be as strong as the business of
the session may require. His words to me on the sub-
ject, some weeks ago, were quite sad.

We had a domestic alarm during last night; several
men, between one and two, were heard walking and
speaking upon the roof of the house. On inquiring this
morning, we find it was a party of police in chase of
two burglars, whom they had followed over the tops of
a long range of houses. The rascals unaccountably
escaped. Lord Macaulay took the oath as a Peer in the
House of Lords on the evening of Thursday last, the
3d instant.

1857. December 6. — ^The Court has gone to Osborne
for a fortnight. The strength of the Ministry is obviously
irresistible. Everything shows the utter weakness of
the opposition. The two leaders — Lord Derby, in the
upper, and Mr. Disraeli, in the lower, house — abstained
from their usual Parliamentary dinners on the opening
of the session. No real resistance to the address. The
relaxation allowed to the Bank and the bill to indemnify
scarcely controverted. There may, however, spring up
a breeze on Lord Palmerston's bill of Reform. On this
point the newspapers are loud and firm.

On being presented to the Queen, seated on her
throne and wearing her crown, the Siamese Ambassa-
dors and their suite crawled from the door to Her
Majesty's feet upon their hands and knees! Among
their royal presents was a spittoon !

220 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

1857. December T, — The Great Eastern, or Leviathan,
moves slowly, and has two-thirds of her way to make
yet before she can float.

The Emperor of Russia is stated to have reduced his
army by three thousand officers and two hundred thou-
sand men.

1857. December 8. — An impenetrable fog all day,
through which the curbstone was invisible.

The papers announce a short telegram from India
indicating serious danger at Lucknow, and reporting
General Outram as wounded. My friend, Sir Colio.
Campbell, has started for Cawnpore to supervise the
operations for the relief of Lucknow. Last evening.
Lord Palmerston, amid great cheering, presented a mes-
sage from the Queen, proposing a grant of one thousand
pounds per annum for General Havelock for life.

Have read nearly through Raikes's "Journal" of four
volumes. Many bon-mots are preserved, very strange
anecdotes, and incidents recorded ; but on the whole it
is a dull book, written by a thorough-starched Tory.

Mr. Henry Middleton and his nephew sat an hour
with us, the latter on his way to the United States. The
former broke out furiously against Louis Napoleon as a
murderer, fool, and madman.

1857. December 11. — Parliament has discussed and
matured in both houses a bill granting one thousand
pounds for life to General Havelock. The grant was,
however, assailed by numerous speakers as inadequate,
and several wanted it extended to the life of his son.
Some of the newspapers think he should be created a
Peer, and be given a handsome fortune to keep up its
dignity. Sir Charles Napier stated that he was poor and
living upon his pay. All the recent news depicts his

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 221

situation at Lucknow as extremely critical, — surrounded
by a hostile army of seventy thousand men with three
hundred guns, and short of food.

The last effort on the Leviathan moved her forward
but thirteen inches. The great difficulty is in getting a
sufficiently firm hold in the river ; heavy anchors have
proved ineffective, and piles are now driving. A Gen-
eral Van Omphal has been sent here from Holland to
ask the hand of Princess Alice for the Prince of Orange.
She is about fifteen years of age.

1857. December 12. — An interesting statement of all
the railroads in operation on the 1st of January, 1856,
appears in the ** Journal des Chemins de Fer." America
has nearly one-half of the whole, at less than one-fourth
the cost \

1857. December 17. — I expected to meet a large party
at Count Bernstorf s last night. There were not twenty
persons present. The Countess had prepared for a
numerous reception, and was somewhat put out.

Poor Brunei ! his labours to launch the Leviathan are
being terribly criticised. The Times deprecates and
despairs of the whole thing. Professor Alexander says
that the miscalculations as to the force necessary have
been gross and unpardonable. The huge mass seems
now beyond the mechanical powers which can be ap-
plied. There was this morning a succession of chain
snapping and ram breaking without the least effect upon
the ponderous ship. The expense of these efforts is
estimated to exceed five hundred thousand dollars !

We were told last evening that the approaching royal
wedding would take place in St. James's Palace, and that
the foreign Ministers would probably not be invited,
except the Ambassadors. Hope this may be true. The

222 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Prussian Minister said that the marriage contract was
completed and signed only yesterday ; and he congratu-
lated himself at having closed the elaborate job.

The trial of Countess Jeufosse and her two sons for
the murder of one Guillot, who was endeavouring to
seduce first her gouvernante and then her daughter, is
proceeding at Evreux, in France, and exciting much in-
terest The proceedings are daily translated and for-
warded to the London newspapers. It is clear, however,
that a " peppering," and not killing, was intended by the
shooting.

1857. December 18. — Went to Viscountess Palmer-
ston's first reception this winter. Most of the Diplomatic
Corps attended. Had a long and lively talk with Lord
Palmerston, whose first question was, " When may the
President's message be expected ?" Lady William Rus-
sell and her son, the new member of Parliament, recently
returned from the United States, were present. Con-
versed for some time with Musurus, the Turkish Ambas-
sador, who said that he had urged his brother, formerly
representative of the Sultan at Turin, to go as Minister
to Washington. The Principalities were discussed ; and
he was bitter against the policy of Russia to effect a
union with a new sovereign. He represented the popu-
lation of both Moldavia and Wallachia combined to be
about four millions and a half. He descanted largely
upon the uniform kindness and toleration of the Porte
in the government of these provinces.

Mrs. Norton was present, and fast showing the ravages
of time, though still a fine-looking woman. She joined
me in praises of the Isle of Wight as a summer retreat.

1857. December 19. — Dined with Lord Justice and Lady
Turner, — ^a company of twenty. He amused me with an

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 223

endless repetition of anecdotes about the Duke of Well-
ington. Discussing reform, after dinner, I was appealed
to for my opinion, and produced a little horror by say-
ing that the distinctions of ten and twenty pound house-
hold suffrage were only calculated to produce jealousies,
feuds, and disturbance ; and that practically nothing was
more conservative than universal suffrage ! It was said
between two members of Parliament — Roundell Palmer,
one of them — that Lord Palmerston's bill would go as
far as twenty pounds, but not farther. The educational
constituency proposed in a letter signed by the Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, Lord Fortescue, Lord Eversly,
and many others, was pronounced an impracticable fancy.
As a proposal to create a new class and have it repre-
sented in the Commons, it is analogous to other features
of the vaunted British Constitution,

The sketch of Berryer's speech on behalf of Countess
Jeufosse, given in the newspaper of this afternoon, strikes
me as exceedingly bold, fine, and effective. It was fol-
lowed by exclamations, long protracted, of bravo ! bravo I
bravo ! from the crowd in the court-room. The trial has
ended in a verdict of " not guilty."

1857. Decetnbcr 26. — ^Went to S to spend Christmas.

This among the scandals detailed there. When Count de
M announced his intention to marry in St. Peters-
burg, the Countess, with whom he had lived for a num-
ber of years, sent for her son, about nineteen, and said

to him, "You must revenge my wrongs. De M ^ is

not, as has been supposed, your father, and you must
fight him. Your father was Baron »." "Ah!" ex-
claimed the youngster, " you destroy all my happiness.
I fondly believed myself the son of the Duke de — — !"

Sir Colin Campbell, after several severe battles, has

224 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

finally relieved the garrison at Lucknow, and sent the
women and wounded to Cawnpore. He has been slightly
wounded.

The royal wedding is assigned for the 2Sth of January.

1858. January 7. — News from India to-day states that
General Havelock died of dysentery on the 25th of No-
vember last. He was born in 1795, and first went to
India in 1823. General Wyndham had been defeated by
the Gwalior contingent, who, in turn, were completely
routed by Sir Colin Campbell.

The celebrated Rachel died very recently at Cannes,
in France, a confirmed Jewess. She has left her son two
millions of francs. She is to be buried in the Hebrew
cemetery in Paris. As conclusive proof of her wonderful
popularity, it is stated that, during the seventeen years
which elapsed between 1838 and 1855, the Theatre Fran-
gais reaped from the nights of her performance the sum
of four million three hundred and ninety-four thousand
two hundred and thirty-one francs, which is at an average
rate of two hundred and fifty-two thousand six hundred
and two francs per annum.

Alexander, the present Emperor, is taking measures
to ameliorate and elevate the condition of the Russian
serfs. This was attempted by his father while I was
Minister at his court. Let the son take heed that his
nobles do not compel him, as they did Nicholas, to
recant.

There is a difference in stating the age at which Mar-
shal Radetzky died in Milan on the 5th inst. Some
say ninety-two, and this is the general representation ;
others say eighty-nine. If ninety-two, he was born ten
years before the Declaration of Independence. He is
said to have commenced his career as a soldier in

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 22$

1781. What a life, and what a period of the world to
have witnessed ! Seventy-seven years of continuous and
wonderful progress and revolution in almost every Euro-
pean nation I

The Leviathan " festinat lentissime !" the ground be-
neath shows symptoms of being less solid.

A curious question arises as to the Baronetcy re-
cently conferred upon Sir Henry Havelock. Its patent
bears date the 26th November, 1857; he died on the
25th, the day before. One would say that it lapsed,
and was abortive ; and yet the universal desire that his
son should inherit the title may be made to prevail.
The loss of Havelock is compared to that of Nelson or
Wellington.

Vernon Smith, President of Board of Control, while
hunting the other day, was thrown from his horse, and
broke his collar-bone. So the Duke of Newcastle dis-
located his shoulder. About twenty such accidents to
equestrians have occurred during the short time I have
been here. They seem to me owing to the awkward
and unsafe seats English riders take, — ^short stirrups,
knees bent, head leaning forward, and arms akimbo. A
sudden shy, halt, or start, and away they go over the
horse's head. They have no hold on the animal by
compression of the knees.

1858. January 13. — ^Julia and I walked to the National
Gallery that we might take a long look at the great pic-
ture of Paul Veronese, "The Family of Darius in Sup-
plication before Alexander," and at the Turner, placed
with an audacious design to compare, between two
Claudes. This collection is injured by a crowd of
paintings on Scriptural subjects alike indecent and
shocking. The history and curiosity of the art may

en*

226 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

excuse the accumulation, but their public exhibition is
without apology.

1858. January 14. — An effort to assassinate Louis
Napoleon has again failed. On arriving, at about eight
o'clock this evening, at the door of the Opera House,
with the Empress, and as they were entering, several
shells exploded, killing three or more persons, wound-
ing many, and crushing the Emperor's hat without
injuring him. He was vehemently cheered by the
audience, remained to the close of the performance,
received the plaudits of the people on the street, and
hurried to receive the congratulations on his safety by
the public functionaries and diplomatic body collected
at the Tuileries. No man understands better how to
turn to account the follies and failures of his enemies.
Every abortive attempt at assassination strengthens the
position of the man against whom it is directed. Yet
this apparently vigorous and well-planned act attests
the existence of inflexible hostility to his usurpation
among conspirators capable of great art in eluding the
police and great daring in exploit. He would seem,
like Macbeth, to "bear a charmed life," for it is won-
derful that neither he nor his Empress was wounded.
Energetic efforts at detecting the criminals were imme-
diately set on foot. Many arrests were made out of the
crowd, but as yet no one seized on whom guilt could be
fastened. Is an Imperial crown, even that of France,
compensation for the protracted and augmenting torture
of a life exposed to such assaults ?

1858. January 17. — The circumstances of the attempt
to assassinate the Emperor indicate great daring, reck-
less cruelty, and a supreme indifference about taking
French lives, whether of men or women. It is essen-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 22'J

tially Italian. Colonels Pierri and Orsini (the names
may be assumed ones) appear the principals. The shells
or grenades were thrown from the upper windows of a
public house opposite the Opera door, were encased in
glass and exploded in striking, one falling on the top of
the carriage and another on the pave. Particles of the
glass have left slight cuts on the noses of Emperor and
Empress. Many bystanders and guards and opera em-
ployes were wounded, and some few persons have died
of their injuries. The Empress is reported to have ex-
claimed, in firm tones, •* Let us show these scoundrels
how much braver we are than they!" Did she read
disquietude in Napoleon's colour? N'importe! Both
behaved admirably, and have seized the occasion to
increase their popularity.

It is generally given out and expected that we are to
have an Ode or Epithalamium from Tennyson on the
marriage of the Princess Royal. He is the only living
English poet worth reading; and even he is very unequal
in his flights. It is impossible not to look forward with
hope of a high enjoyment when the pen of Locksley
Hall, Morte d'Arthur, and Cardigan's Six Hundred is at
work.

A regular money-making, huckstering job is being
made, in the Queen's name, a part of the coming festivi-
ties. Her Majesty's Theatre is to be opened to enable
her guests to witness some fine performances, selected by
herself; but then the tickets of admission are only to be
had by those who give the highest bid for them !

1858. January 19.— The first of the festivities incident
to the approaching wedding took place last night. It
was a sort of private dancing-party, given by the Queen
for the enjoyment of her numerous guests. We were

228 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

bidden, and went. There was an especial throng of Ger-
man Princes and Princesses, whose look and deportment
are singularly different from anything English. Their
long necks, small heads, and grave faces with light com-
plexions, are peculiar and unattractive. The ladies among
them had an air of great refinement and delicacy. All
the Ministry, except, I think, Granville and Argyll, were
present; and I had long talks with Palmerston, Clanri-
carde, and Talbot Baines. Count Kreptovitch told me
he would remain but two weeks, and had resolved to
quit the career of diplomacy ; he is obviously enraged
and disgusted at some treatment he has been subjected
to by the Russian Department of Foreign Affairs. Tal-
bot Baines, a well-informed lawyer, informed me that
they had a professorship of law at Cambridge, and had
just adopted, upon the recommendation of a committee,
as the manual for reading and instruction by the students,
Wheaton's " International Law." This is a striking fact
lor the scientific and literary honour of America.

The Prince Consort received, just as I approached
him, by the hands of a messenger, a long telegram,
which, after exchanging a few words with me, he retired
into the yet unopened supper-room to read. I was after-
wards told that it was the address delivered by Louis
Napoleon to the Council in the course of the day.

The Duke of Devonshire, William Spencer Cavendish,
who with such lavish expenditure of wealth represented
this country as Ambassador at the coronation of the
Czar Nicholas in 1826, died suddenly yesterday at Chats-
worth. This will throw an immense family connection
into mourning, — the Sutherlands, Portlands, Cliffords,
Cavendishes, Granvilles, Argylls, Laboucheres, Carlisles,
Bagots, etc.

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 229

Louis Napoleon's speech to the Senate and Legisla-
tive body at the opening of the session yesterday, opens,
in my opinion, a new epoch of French Imperial politics.
It savours a good deal of a distilled or compressed Presi-
dential message. It is bold, explanatory, and philosophi-
cal. His attitude and purposes are unequivocally stated.
Clearly he intimates himself to be the French Augustus
Caesar. Let me preserve here a few of his sentences
that I think will tell effectively :

" On a souvent pretendu que pour gouverner la
France, il fallait sans cesse donner comme aliment a
Tesprit public quelque grand incident theatral. Je crois,
au contraire, qu'il suffit de chercher exclusivement a faire
le bien pour meriter la confiance du pays."

" II n'y a que les causes bien definies, nettement for-
mulees, qui creent des convictions profondes ; il n'y a que
les drapeaux hauiement deployes qui inspirent des devoue-
mens sinceres."

" Ne Toublions pas, la marche de \.owX. pouvoir nouveau
est longtemps une lutte. D'ailleurs il est une verite
ecrite a chaque page de Thistoire de la France et de
TAngleterre, c'est qu'une liberie sans entrave est impossible
tantqu'il existe dans un pays une fraction obstinee a mecon-
nattre les bases fondamentales du gouvernement^

" Le danger, quoi qu'on dise, n'est pas dans les preroga-
tives excessives du pouvoir^ mais plutot dans V absence de
lois ripressives^

" La pacification des esprits devant etre le but constant
de nos efforts, vous nCaiderez a rechercher les moyens de
reduire au silence les oppositions extremes et factieuses."

"Jamais un assassinat, vint-il a reussir, n*a servi la
cause de ceux qui avaient arme le bras des assassins ; ni
le parti qui frappa Cesar, ni celui qui frappa Henri IV.,

230 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

ne profiterent de leur meurtre. Dteu permet quelquefois
la mort du juste, mats il ne permet jamais le triomphe de
la cause du crimeT (this from the perjured author of the
coup d'etat of 1852).

What a criminal code, and what a system of espio-
nage does this address foreshadow! All efforts are
now to be bent to prevent opposition, to silence attack,
and to consolidate the tyranny of the Empire. If France
submit, she will deserve her fate.

The papers of to-day contain the congratulatory ad-
dresses of the legislative bodies to the Emperor on his
escape. They all chime in an effort to create feeling
against this country as the resort and sanctuary of
refugee conspirators and plotting assassins. De Morny
uses fierce language, importing that the Emperor should
compel England, and indeed every other European
country, to banish the miscreants whose only aim is
against the very symbol of universal order, — Louis
Napoleon.

Sir Edward Cust told me last night that he is finish-
ing a work which he calls " Annals of the Wars of the
Eighteenth Century;" that it will, of course, embrace
our Revolutionary War, and that, as soon as he has
finished that portion of it, he will send me a copy, with
a view, if I do not disapprove it, to have it noticed by
our Government. He says he can find nothing which
entitles Lafayette to military fame, but that Washington
was unquestionably a great general,

1858. January 21. — The Queen's ball last night was
not so inconveniently crowded as usual. The King of
the Belgians and the Prince of Prussia were present,
and the odor of Germany was paramount. The celebrity
most interesting to me was Lord Stratford de Redcliffe,

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 23 1

and I had myself introduced. His countenance is stern
and impressive, so strongly indeed as to be very at-
tractive.

1858. January 24. — The reception of the German
royalties at the Prussian legation last night was crowded
and brilliant. The impending bridegroom arrived from
Berlin in the morning, and, with his father and mother,
the Prince and Princess of Prussia, and some half-dozen
others of the House of Brandenburg, with ladies sans
nonibre, graced the rooms. The chief members of the
Ministry, the Archbishop of Canterbury and Bishop of
Oxford, the Duke of Cambridge, Sir William Williams,
of Kars, and a reasonable seasoning of diplomats, were
present. Conversed with the Archbishop, the twitchings
of whose face are adverse to the impression which his
high and venerable character would otherwise make.
Talked, too, with Earl Stanhope, Sir W. Williams, and
Lord Dufferin. This last said he was maturing a project
for. a trip in his yacht, to which he proposed applying
steam, to the West Indies, and thence up the St. Law-
rence to our Great Lakes, and through them as far as he
can penetrate. His voyage to Iceland, very well narrated,
has given him a taste for literary fame. He asserts him-
self to be a connection of mine, probably through Sir
Robert Dallas, the eminent Chief Justice of the Common
Pleas.

At the fullest swell of the tide, to-day, the bow of the
Leviathan gave signs of yielding to its power. She will
float from her cradle in a few days.

1858. January 26. — Queen Victoria's eldest daughter,
Victoria Adelaide, was yesterday married to Frederick
William, Prince Royal of Prussia. The ceremony took
place in the Chapel Royal at St. James's Palace, and in

232 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the presence of a comparatively small number of persons.
The Diplomatic Corps were provided with places as
advantageous and comfortable as the building afforded,
in the gallery facing the altar. The Archbishop of
Canterbury and the Bishop of London performed the
service, the Bishop of Oxford and another being in the
background, on the ** haut pas." About three hundred
people, all told, witnessed the proceeding, which was as
brilliant and effective as such a spectacle could possibly
be. All the appropriate royalties, appropriately dis-
posed, and making appropriate movements at appropri-
ate moments, executed their respective parts in the in-
teresting show, to the general satisfaction. The entrance
of the Queen surrounded by her brood of children, and
apparently flurried with natural excitement, inspired the
kindliest sympathy; the bridegroom's gallant and grace-
ful kissing of the ring as he put it in the hands of the
archbishop ; the bride's beautiful group of eight attend-
ants uniformly dressed in white, with their hair encircled
by wreaths of pink roses ; the " abandon" of the em-
braces and felicitations among the newly-created kin-
dred after the marriage was finished; the joyous aspect
of the couple as they left the chapel " man and wife ;"
the rich and regulated music; the excessive gorgeous-
ness of the " toilettes" and uniforms, — all these striking
features combined to give the entire proceeding a beauty
and interest which I had not expected.

A State concert at the great ballroom of Bucking-
ham Palace took place in the evening. All the royalties
again, and in the centre of the room, on chairs. Eight
hundred persons in full costume. The diplomats on
rising benches on the right of the royalties. An ad-
mirable orchestra of about two hundred Clara Novello,

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 233

Julia Pyne, Mrs. Anderson, Giulini, and Weiss, Jr., were
the vocalists. Supper at one and bed at three a.m.

The spontaneous illuminations in honor of the wed-
ding were many and brilliant. I contented myself with
a " Lone Star."

A more utterly exhausting day rarely happens in the
discharge of one's representative duty than was yester-
day.

During these festive performances the crowds collected
in the streets were immense. The whole population of
London seemed to have turned out. In going to Buck-
ingham Palace at night, we were unable, after repeated
trials down different streets, to penetrate the masses in
Oxford Street until we had driven far west. Many
dreadful casualties occurred from the pressure.

The Belgian King, the Prince and Princess of Prussia,
and their respective suites have taken leave to-day. The
grand finale of this great uproar will be at the drawing-
room on Saturday next, announced as an occasion for
congratulating the married couple.

1858. January 30. — ^Orsini*s attempt at the life of Louis
Napoleon has, among its consequences, awakened the
jealousy of the two nations into crimination and recrim-
ination. The French, in their official harangues and
journals, fiercely assail England as the sanctuary and
den of assassins. The Morning Post pleads guilty, and
urges legislative measures to authorize the expulsion of
refugees. Count Persigny has ventured to attack the
want of law in this country, whereupon the Times charges
him with neglect of his duty in not having warned the
Emperor of the conspiracy, exposes his ignorance and
misrepresentations, and firmly says he must explain or

retract. In the meanwhile the Moniteur is publishing a

234 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

series of addresses from the regiments of the army in
which vindictive and opprobrious allusions are made to
England, and the Emperor is asked to send them to clear
out this den of miscreants ! The question obviously is,
to what amount of propitiatory enactment must John
Bull crouch before the uplifted Imperial truncheon ?

1858. January 31. — ^The Leviathan took to the stream
safely to-day at half-past two o'clock.

1858. February 2. — The newly-married royal couple,
the Prince and Princess Frederick William of Prussia,
left England to-day. They proceeded on quitting Buck-
ingham Palace to Gravesend, and there embarked for
Antwerp on board a yacht.

It is announced that Louis Napoleon, not content
with unusually repressive measures, has had presented to
the French legislature to-day a law providing a regency
should the Prince Imperial be called to the throne while
yet a minor. This measure appears to me to have two
aspects, — one of dynastic precaution, the other of personal
fear. In the latter the father holds up his child as a
shield against the conspirators who aim at his life only.
Its consequence cannot fail to be, to involve in any plot
to rid France of her usurper, the necessity of destroy-
ing the son simultaneously withr the father. Had the
arrangement been secretly made, patriotic revolutionists
would not have been warned of this necessity, and the
infant might have been contemptuously spared.

1858. February 5. — Parliament reassembled yesterday.
The subject of amending the law in order to facilitate
action against criminal refugees occupied for a time both
Houses. Lord Palmerston, in the Commons, said he
would offer a bill on Monday next. In the Lords, Lord
Derby spoke at length ; so did Lord Granville. They

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 235

agreed in their general views, insisting upon maintaining
the great principle of punishing only those who were
proved guilty, but admitting that if the law were defec-
tive it should be amended. Lord Campbell vigorously
asserted the adequacy of the law, and maintained the
hospitality of England to the refugee. Lord Brougham
was evidently for propitiating the French Emperor and
people.

I went to the Commons to-day. The Prime Minister
moved that the whole House carry an address to the
Queen congratulatory on the happy marriage of her
daughter. Disraeli seconded ; unanimity.

Mr. Roebuck spoke fiercely against Persigny, the ad-
dresses of the French officers, and the adoption of their
sentiments by the Emperor by permitting their publica-
tion in the Moniteur, Louis Napoleon had thus insulted
England. Lord Palmerston replied coarsely.

Mr. dined with us. He had recently been at

Paris, and amused us by a lively narrative of his getting
to the door of the Opera House just after the attempt at
assassination had been made. He might have been dread-
fully involved, for his carriage was stopped by a military
officer, to whom, as ignorant of the French language, he
could make no explanation, and he had in his pocket at
the time letters of introduction to Mazzini, Ledru Rollin,
Louis Bianc, Victor Hugo, and others!

1858. February 6. — We visited two exhibitions of art
to-day ; that of paintings at the British Institution was
exceedingly pleasing. A picture of the interesting inci-
dent at Lucknow, of a Scotch girl suddenly becoming
wild with delight as her acute hearing detected the notes
of the bagpipe and the tune of "The Campbells are
Coming!" had a singular charm. The sculpture of

236 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Petrich was not so attractive. His Tecumseh, and
other Indian chiefs^ in marble, are exaggerations. His
reliefs, in a sort of terra-cotta, representing Indian war-
dances, are good.

Went to Lord Palmerston's in the evening. Was much
gratified by several conversations, — with Count Krepto-
vitch, who has ceased to be of the corps ; Admiral von
Dorkum ; Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who compared the
absence of all monumental relics in India with the recent
archaeological discoveries in the United States, and who
thought that the great chance of retaining their Indian
empire was founded upon the resistless superiority of
civilized intellect over an almost incurable barbarism;
and with Lord Chief-Justice Campbell, who was particu-
larly inquisitive as to whether, in the administration of
the criminal law in America, we made any distinction
between the citizen and the foreigner.

1858. February g. — Went to the House of Commons
to hear the debate on the bill introduced by Lord Pal-
merston, which may hereafter be known as the Refugee
Bill, changing the criminal law by making the misde-
meaner of conspiring to kill, in or out of England, pun-
ishable by fine and imprisonment, a felony punishable
with confinement at hard labour, and in some cases by
transportation. The question was on the mere first
reading. It was ably and eloquently opposed by War-
ren ("Ten Thousand a Year**), by Lord John Russell, and
by several others. Disraeli was flat and undetermined.
It was carried by a majority exceeding two hundred.

1858. February 10. — Went in the evening to two par-
ties, — a crowded one of Milner Gibson's, and a dance of
Sir Frederick Thesiger*s. Talked to Lady Derby, with
whom was her daughter, Lady Emma Stanley. Sir

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 237

Francis Airey introduced himself to me. He has been
presenting an American horse-tamer to the Queen, and
knows the secret, but cannot account for the effect
produced upon the animal.

1858. February 11. — Dined with Lord Overstone;
about fifteen at table, — among them the political econ-
omist McCulIoch, Sir Henry Holland, and Captain
Frazier, of the Guards. After dinner, competitive ex-
aminations were discussed, and generally ridiculed.
McCulloch said that at the Commissariat examinations,
a standing question put to a candidate was, Where was
Calvin born? This led to an enumeration of curious
questions. Lord Overstone : What's the use of moun-
tains ? Captain Frazier : How many fish were taken in
the miraculous draught? McCulloch: What country
was Christ from? Sir H. Holland remarked that the
senior wranglers were given up at Oxford, because
modern science overstrained and baffled the strongest
faculties.

On Lady Overstone's drawing-room centre-table was
a perfect bijou under glass, cut in pure white marble, — an
infant's plump, spread hand emerging as it were from a
ruffle of pointed leaves, — ^by our Power.

1858. February 12. — The House of Commons, when I
reached there, were listening to Lord Palmerston's speech
on his motion for leave to introduce a bill reorganizing
the government of India. Its principle is simply the
transfer of the Government from the Directors, Proprie-
tors, and Board of Control to a Council appointed by the
Crown, consisting of eight members and a President, who
will be a member of the Cabinet, the name of the Queen
to be hereafter employed instead of the Company's. I
thought Lord Palmerston fell far short of the real mag-

238 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

nitude of the occasion. He seemed little impressed with
the idea that the extraordinary corporation he was about
abolishing had begun as a few enterprising merchants,
had gradually and peaceably acquired immense terri-
torial possessions and power, and had annexed to the
Crown of England a magnificent empire teeming with
wealth of every description, and with a population six
times as large as that of Great Britain. Mr. Thomas
Baring followed against the bill in an admirable address,
specially enforcing the unsuitableness of a period of pro-
tracted rebellion for any change like the one proposed.
The debate was adjourned, at the suggestion of Mr.
Roebuck, to be resumed, I presume, on Monday next.
The diplomatic box was crowded by Lords Monteagle,
Derby, Grey, Ellenborough, etc., whose conversation
across and with me indicated fixed opposition to the
measure.

I am reading Lord Normanby's " Year of Revolution
in Paris." As far as I have yet gone in it, it is super-
ficial, badly constructed, and vapid. During the revolu-
tionary days, after Louis Philippe had abdicated, and
while the Provisional Government, headed in part by
Lamartine, were labouring to avert anarchy, his Lord-
ship, personally much alarmed, very wisely trusted for
safety to the Laws of Nations, and declined to be pro-
tected by a corps of National Guards or an embodied
company of two hundred Englishmen. This, if strictly
true, does him great honour.

I am making arrangements to-day for nabbing, as soon
as they arrive in the United States, some three hundred
or four hundred Mormons on their way, with arms and
ammunition, to join Brigham Young.

1858. February 14. — The crowd at Lord Palmerston's

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 239

last night was great and dull. There had been a state dinner
at the Speaker's, and all the members of Government came
to the Premier's in full ornamental dress. The Chancellor
of the Exchequer asked me how he could obtain informa-
tion as to our recent panic in the United States ; its cause,
whether excess of credit generally or excess of bank
issues, and its effect upon the price of gold and silver. I
told him how to go about it He said he would author-
ize Lord Napier to expend two hundred to three hun-
dred pounds in procuring for him a full and accurate
view of the subject. Countess Persigny was there with-
out her husband, the Ambassador. He is said to be in
Paris, either because he expected to be made Minister of
the Interior, in Billault's place, or because he is preparing
to give way to Count Walewski, who has made the Court
of St. James rather unpleasant to him, or, finally, because
he wishes to go through the preliminary steps of being
in form made a member of the Council of State newly
created.

A criminal trial for libel is about to come ofT in
Brabant. It springs out of a rather fierce notice taken
in a paper, called the Drapeau^ of the attempt to assas-
sinate Louis Napoleon on the 14th inst. The libellous
article alleged : " For our part, we know of no attempt
more terrible, more execrable, than the one which was
committed successfully on the night of the 2d of De-
cember, 1851, against the liberty and life of the French
people. Yes, it is a frightful thing to think that at the
present day a people, in order to get back its liberty,
stolen from it by highway robbery, should be reduced to
the last mode, — that of assassinating a man. But what
is more frightful than to have seen a people morally and
materially assassinated for the advantage of this same

240 DIAR Y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

man ? Before making ourselves the cursers of the mur-
derers, let us be informed who is the greatest murderer,
and who is the most worthy of our curses. Until then,
we can only see in attempts similar to that of Thursday
evening that which is called the return of things here
below, with a warning to the elect of Providence to have
always present to his mind this expression of Scripture,
* He who makes use of the sword shall perish by the
sword.'** The defendant is Mr. Louis Labarre. The
prosecution is a propitiation to Louis Napoleon, who
will hardly find it difficult to dragoon Belgium.

1858. February 15. — In the Commons, on the India
bill, heard Mr. Roebuck, who was rather general and
feeble, and the Irish orator, Mr. Whitesides, whose ani-
mation and vigour, in proving the inconsistency of the
chief members of the Cabinet in proposing this form of
measure, were irresistible. The quotations he made from
the speeches of Sir Charles Wood, in 1853, were pointed
and striking, as if directly condemnatory of the leading
features of the bill.

1858. February 16. — Met at the Duchess Dowager of
Somerset's, Lord Panmure, Mr. Villiers, Sir Benjamin
Hall, Sir Alexander Cockburn, Lord Chief-Justice of
Common Pleas, and some members of Parliament. The
Duchess is unbounded in her admiration of everything
American. Her dishes were " a la Washington," " a la
Niagara," " a la Republique Americaine," and the chief
ornaments of her table were small flags of white satin,
on which were handsomely painted the arms of the
United States.

1858. February 1 8. — Considerable popular excitement
is brewing against the new Conspiracy or Alien Bill, and a
meeting in Hyde Park is contemplated on Sunday next.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 24 1

At the first levee of the season to-day I conversed with
a number of eminent gentlemen, — ^the Irish Solicitor-
General, Sir John Harding, Lord Stratford de Redcliflfe,
etc. The two former, as law officers, to my surprise, in-
troduced the tenth article of the treaty of 1842, on the
extradition of criminals, and expressed their entire ap-
proval of my construction. How they knew it, I forbore
to inquire. The Colonial Secretary, Mr. Labouchere, en-
tered upon the topic of the intention of the Mormons to
migrate into the territory held by license by the Hudson
Bay Company. He said if they once get there it would
be difficult to get rid of them, notwithstanding the ex-
pressed repugnance of the Queen to have such " horrid
creatures" among her subjects. Her Majesty was beset
by deputations presenting addresses of congratulation
on the late marriage. She knighted two gentlemen, and
many, on bended knee, kissed her hand.

The Moniteur disputes the accuracy of Lord Palmer-
ston's statement as to the legacy to Cantillon, and pro-
poses by an official statement to disprove the allegation
that Louis Napoleon has acted upon the idea that his
uncle was deranged. The Premier would seem to have
rather carelessly trodden upon the toes of his Imperial
favourite.

A strong gathering took place yesterday in Lambeth
hostile to the Conspiracy Bill ; another is preparing at
Liverpool ; another at Sheffield. The pertinacious in-
terference of French police agents here, in dogging the
movements of every refugee, is attracting notice, and
will rouse a dangerous feeling.

1858. February 20. — Last night, or rather this morn-
ing about one, the House of Commons divided on an
amendment to Lord Palmerston's Conspiracy Bill, offered

242 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

by Milner Gibson, recently elected for Ashton-on-Lyne.
In effect the amendment struck out the whole bill, and
substituted a censure upon the Government for not having
replied to the despatch of Walewski of the 20th of Jan-
uary, 1858. Mr. Gibson maintained his amendment by
a speech admirable in reasoning and tone, and was ably
supported by Mr. Gladstone, Sir Robert Peel, Mr.
Disraeli, and Mr. Walpole. The Conservatives and true
Liberals united, and beat the Ministry by a majority of
nineteen. The mode of putting the question was thus :
The Speaker stated that the motion was to read the bill
a second time; that to that motion an amendment was
offered, and he read it ; then. Shall the words proposed
to be struck out, stand part of the question ? The reply
of the House was two hundred and fifteen ayes, two hun-
dred and thirty-four noes! A result so unexpected and
striking produced among the victors vociferous cheering,
and the opposition papers are to-day full of exultation.
In the city it is thought the Ministry will not resign.
They are silly politicians if they delay a moment. De-
claring their defeat as a proof of hostility to the French
alliance, and their determination not to administer the
Government except by strengthening that alliance in
every constitutional way, their retirement from office
could not but be of very short duration. The great gath-
ering to-morrow in Hyde Park will have a merry time,
now that they are backed by a majority in the House of
Commons.

Dined with the Queen to-day at eight. I walked the
beautiful Duchess of Manchester to her seat at the table,
her Majesty in the centre, with the Prince Consort on her
right. This is a novel arrangement, and may be owing
to the new title, which the German Masters of Ceremo-

jiT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 243

nies refuse to accept. Between me and the Prince Consort
was the Duchess of Cambridge, and to my right, beyond
the Duchess of Manchester, was Lord Clarendon. To
the Queen's left was, first, the Prince of Wales, then the
Duchess of Wellington, then the Duke of Manchester,
then Mrs. Dallas. The Princess Mary of Cambridge sat
opposite the Queen, having on her right the Duke of
Wellington, and on her left the Turkish Ambassador,
Musurus. The rest of the company — Madame Musurus,
Lady Clarendon, Lady Mary Wood, Lord Byron, two
other Lords, and two other ladies in waiting — came in
proper succession. I found my neighbour chatty and
agreeable. The dinner, of course, admirable, was im-
proved by delightful music from an unseen band. It
was half-past eight before we were at table, and not more
than half past ten when we rose and went into the Picture
Gallery, to coffee or tea. And here it was that the min-
isterial defeat in the House of Commons, at one in the
morning, began to tell by little noticeable incidents. The
Duke of Wellington first whispered to me that he knew
that the Cabinet had resigned ; then there were protracted
conversations between the Queen and, first, Lord Claren-
don, and, second. Sir Charles Wood ; then the young heir
apparent, carelessly addressing Lady Wood, remarked,
"Well, the Ministers are all out;" and then Lord Clar-
endon, who affected great loudness of spirits, said to the
beautiful Duchess, of her husband, " He may be First
Lord of the Admiralty." So, then, here was the Court
of Victoria Regina first conscious of a great change in
the administration of the Empire ! How gently it works !
While it may convulse the nation, and lead to a general
European war, in the Palace it but " points a moral or
adorns a tale," and is acknowledged only by a few smiles

244 ^^^R ^ OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

and jests. ' Lord Palmerston held a council in Downing
Street at three o'clock, and at four he was seen, riding
gayly on his high charger, on his way to Buckingham
Palace to divest himself and associates of office and
power ! I ask myself, reflectively, whether this calm ac-
quiescence in the ascendency of the popular will, as an-
nounced by a sudden majority in a single House of Par-
liament, does not resemble and almost equal the general
submission we accord to the result of an election.

In the short conversation I had in my turn with the
Queen, I hoped that Her Majesty had been informed
that the spirit of festivity had on the 25th of January
been wafted from London, across the Atlantic, to Wash-
ington ? She was apparently much gratified, and said
she intended sending to the President a medal which she
had had struck in commemoration of the occasion. She
is obviously proud of the match her daughter has made.
'* There is," as she says, " but one small bitter drop in
the bowl. My daughter necessarily is separated from
me; but, you know, it is impossible to have everything
exactly as we like."

We took our customary seats round the Queen's tea-
table, and I engaged Lady Clarendon in conversation.
Both she and Lady Wood had rather a look of de-
jection. At one moment, noticing Lady Clarendon's
eyes to redden a little, and thinking that I perceived a
tendency to more water in them than might be comfort-
able, I hurried to describe my delight at witnessing the
scene of the eight bridesmaids, in which her daughter,
Lady Constance Villiers, had performed a part in the
Chapel Royal, St. James's Palace. The mother got the
better of the politician ; and I avoided the rock.

Lord Byron, in the course of the evening, very hand-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 245

somely apologized for having seen us so little. His rail-
way accident, a year ago, has left a permanent pain in
his head, and has so injured Lady Byron's health that
she can rarely leave her house. There is in his face a
very singular resemblance to my father.

1858. February 22. — When Lord Palmerston on Sat-
urday resigned, the Queen sent for Lord Derby, who
obtained an audience that very evening, before the din-
ner I have described. Since then he has had a consulta-
tion with Gladstone, who agreed to join him, upon con-
dition that his associates — the Duke of Newcastle, Sir
James Graham, Mr. Cardwell, and Mr. Sidney Herbert —
would agree j but these gentlemen declined being mem-
bers of a Tory cabinet, and, of course, Mr. Gladstone de-
clines also. Lord Derby is, therefore, embarrassed at
the threshold, and may find it impossible to compose
a ministry.

The irritiation in Paris is said to be extreme. The
correspondent of The Post intimates even the possibility
of war. I have been told that while the Conspiracy Bill
was still discussing, Count Persigny called upon the Earl
of Derby, and spoke earnestly as to its passing. " But
it may not," said the Earl ; " what then ?" "La guerre,"
was the reply. "That," coolly returned Lord Derby,
" you had better tell Lord Claren Jon." The next day the
Ambassador went to Paris, whence he has not returned.

1858. February 24. — I met last night, at Sir John Shaw
Lefevre's, Lord Chief-Justice Campbell, Lord Overstone,
Sir George Grey, and Sir Frederick Thesiger. They in-
formed me that Lord Derby had completed his Cabinet
and submitted it to the Queen. Thesiger is the new
Lord Chancellor, and said that he had on that account

withdrawn from the trial against the Royal British

246 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Bank directors which he had been prosecuting until that
morning.

The Times of to-day contains the following as the
Ministry :

Prime or Treasury Derby. Palmerston.

Exchequer Disraeli. Lewis.

Lord Chancellor Thesiger. Cranworth.

President of Council Salisbury. Granville.

Privy Seal Hardwicke. Clanricarde.

Home Secretary ...... Mr. Walpole. Sir G. Grey.

Foreign Secretary Malmesbury. Clarendon.

Colonial Secretary E. B. Lytton. Labouchere.

War Secretary General Peel. Panmure.

First Lord of Admiralty ... Sir J. Pakington. Sir C. Wood.

Postmaster-General Colchester. Argyll.

President of Board of Trade . Henley. Stanley of Alderney.

President of Board of Control . Ellenborough. Vernon Smith.

First Commissioner of Works . Lord J. Manners. Sir B. Hall.

Attorney-General Sir F. Kelly. Sir R. Bethell.

Lord Lieutenant (Ireland) . . Eglinton. Carlisle.

1858. February 26. — Dined with Mr. Hankey. In the
evening went to Lady Colchester's ; the rooms crowded
with triumphant conservatives. The new Lord Chan-
cellor, the new Attorney-General, the new Colonial Sec-
retary, the new Postmaster-General, and various others,
all beaming with exulting smiles. I am told that the
rival reception at Lady Stanley of Alderney's was
sombre, — almost lachrymose. Sir F. Thesiger says that
the first use he makes of the great seal, after receiv-
ing it, is to affix it, that casualties may be avoided, to
the instrument which secures his own retiring pension of
five thousand pounds per annum ! To be sure, this is a
small matter to a leading lawyer in full practice like Sir
Frederick, whose honoraria amount sometimes to thirty
thousand. The pension is, however, for life ; his Lord

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 247

Chancellorship may last six months or a year, and it
equals the salary of our President !

Persigny is reported to have returned from France,
with instructions to persevere in requiring the fulfilment
of Walewski's despatch of January 20th. If this be
true, the Derby administration will find it hard to avoid
an early fall, for hostility to the " Conspiracy-to-Murder
Bill" is declaring itself violently all over the country,
and yet the state necessity of propitiating the Emperor
is felt to be imminent.

1858. February 27. — Lord Derby was expected to an-
nounce the circumstances of his accession to office, and
a general programme of policy, yesterday afternoon in
the House of Lords. I went to hear, but, meeting in the
antechamber the Marquis of Salisbury and Lord Chan-
cellor Cranworth, was informed by them that the matter
would be postponed till Monday. Is there a hitch ?

All the old Ministers surrendered to the Queen yester-
day, and the new ones accepted from her, the seals of
their respective offices.

Mr. Lindsay, M.P., called upon me to-day. He is
having a consultation with a knot of members of the
House upon the course to be pursued to effect an aboli-
tion of Light Dues as far at least as they affect the ship-
ping of the United States trading with this country. As
we tax no one, he naturally thinks we ought not to be
taxed. I gave him ideas and memoranda on which he
intends acting. He read me a capital and characteristic
letter he had just got from Mr. Cobden, on the retribu-
tive justice exemplified in Milner Gibson and John
Bright being the Tellers to announce to the House of
Commons the majority of nineteen on the vote of cen-
sure which has driven Palmerston from office !

248 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

I received to-day the customary official note from Lord
Clarendon informing me of his resignation of the office
of Principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, and
of the Queen having confided the seals of that Depart-
ment to Lord Malmesbury. I immediately acknowl-
edged the receipt of this letter, and concluded by ex-
pressing a high and lasting appreciation of the urbanity,
candour, and friendliness by which our intercourse had
been uniformly characterized. This closes vay repre-
sentative connection with the Palmerston Ministry.
Will it be renewed? Lord Clarendon is now fifty-
seven years of age. He has had much experience in
public life, having begun as secretary or attache to the
British legation at St. Petersburg, when Mr. Bagot, who
was formerly in the United States, was Minister at
that Court He filled various missions abroad, particu-
larly that at Madrid. He was in early life a sort of
Commissioner of Customs, attached to the revenue de-
partment in Dublin, and ended his career in Ireland
when he ceased to be its Lord Lieutenant. As a man
of business he is quick in perception, exceedingly plausi-
ble in manner, laborious, and talented, and sufficiently
punctual, though sometimes dilatory. He has the ap-
pearance more than the sentiment of frankness, and will
occasionally inspire distrust by physiognomical, never
verbal, expressions of cunning. These looks are transient,
and do not indicate his conduct. I have not known
him guilty of actual deception in a single instance, for,
although I think he should have apprised me of Jiis
having introduced into the Treaty with Honduras the
clause repudiating slavery in the Bay Islands, which,
subsequently detected by the Senate, produced the re-
jection of my independent instrument, yet, from the

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 249

course which the negotiation took, he was not bound to
do so, and, in a British point of view, might well con-
sider the details of the arrangement with Mr. Herran as
matters with which I had really nothing to do. I have
always thought that the Honduras Minister overreached
himself by introducing that provision at a moment of
anxious suspense, just before the convention was finally
drafted, in order to propitiate capitalists in reference to
the railway across the Isthmus. Some miner in the
quarries of historical archives may hereafter detect the
precise moment when, and the precise inducement to,
that suicidal disregard of the feeling known to exist in
America. My judgment is that Lord Clarendon, who
was perfectly aware of our sensitiveness on the point,
would never have originated the clause, though, when
offered it by Herran and backed by those whose wealth
was about to be invested in the transit, he might feel, as
an English abolitionist acting for a nation of abolitionists,
bound to accept it.

Lord Clarendon is no orator. I think, indeed, that it
is always painful to listen to his speeches, for, though his
matter is full and exact, his hesitating and drawling are
oppressive beyond measure. He never would do on the
Treasury Bench in the Commons. He is safer in the
dull drawing-room of legislation among oligarchs, always
polite to each other, and seldom zealous enough in de-
bate to quit the tame colloquial path. Nor is he an
effective writer. He is considered generally as the rea
author of Palmerston's overthrow by having shrunk
from answering in a firm manner the insolent despatch
of Walewski. Notwithstanding all this, his abilities are

so established, his personal deportment so unexception-

22*

250 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

able and conciliatory, that I venture to predict his being
Prime Minister when Derby is voted down.

1858. March i. — Went to the House of Lords.
Crowded in every part to hear the new premier's pro-
gramme. The opposition, the late Ministers, Granville,
Clarendon, Argyll, Lansdowne, Clanricarde, Panmure,
etc., all on the left of the Lord Chancellor, with full
benches. Lord Palmerston stood in the midst of a
throng, in front of the throne, and, of course, outside
the bar. Many ladies in the gallery. The Commons
in large numbers. Four bishops and the archbishop in
their robes. On the Treasury Bench were Lords Derby,
Malmesbury, Montrose, Hardwicke, Ellenborough, Col-
chester, etc.

Lord Derby spoke for nearly two hours. He pro-
fessed incompetency for the great task he had under-
taken. Recapitulated the incidents which led the Queen
to summon him. Read the motion of Milner Gibson,
and adopted it as the sense of Parliament. Laboured
through a narrative of the attempt on Louis Napoleon's
life, which he strongly depicted as wanting in no feature
of aggravation. Argued that the law of England pun-
ished the conspiracy to kill anybody anywhere, but
would not say that the punishment was adequate. His
course on this topic would be to do what his predecessors
had omitted, that is, he would reply to the despatch of
Count Walewski, and he expected satisfactory explana-
tions to follow. Anticipated an easy arrangement on the
India bill. Vaguely promised, as to Reform, a measure
next session.

A criminal proceeding against a bookseller here for libel
is going on. The man's name is Edward Truelove. The al-
leged libel is the circulation of a pamphlet printed in Lon-

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 25 I

don on the 24th of February, 1858, signed by three per-
sons, who describe themselves as "the Committee of the
Revolutionary Commune." It vindicates with extraor-
dinary force and fearlessness of eloquence the "attentat"
of Orsini, and gives assurance that Italian patriotism will
yet strike down their tyrant. Strange that, even for the
ostensible purpose of condemning it, so powerful a paper
should be allowed to appear iji the Morning Post, as it
does to-day ! Quern Deus vult perdere, etc.

1858. March 3. — I had to-day a long visit from the
Marquess of Lansdowhe. He is now seventy-seven
years of age, and is a sample of the " fine old English
gentleman." He is a permanent member of the Privy
Council, and will not, therefore, I presume, be personally
affected by the overthrow of the Whig Ministry. His
conversation was highly agreeable. We talked upon all
the topics of the day freely. We considered the state of
historical literature in our two countries ; and while I
spoke of Alison, Macaulay, Grote, and Hallam, he was
warmly eulogistic of Bancroft and Prescott, to the former
of whom he had lent the correspondence of his father,
who was in the Ministry when our Treaty of 1783 was
made. He took occasion to ask my opinion on the law
of conspiracy in reference to foreigners, and where the
overt acts were to be committed in another country. I
expressed my judgment, as I had expressed to Lord
Campbell, that it was impossible for me to entertain a
doubt that, wherever the doctrine of the common law
prevailed, an alien was as much amenable to the criminal
code as a conspirator as a citizen, and that there could
be no immunity, except in the known cases of foreign
Ministers, and that even they might by circumstances
of an extreme character render themselves liable to the

}

252 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

penal law. I thought he indicated as a party man a
slight disappointment at the strength of my conviction
of what the law is.

1858. March 6. — Went at night to Lord Palmerston's.
I think every one of the retired Ministry was there;
the rooms, however, not crowded. Lady Holland and I
disputed the age of Lord Derby. I thought him sixty-
seven, she fifty-seven. I find, on examining, that he is
fifty-eight. Lord Stanley, of whose speech on being re-
elected every one is speaking in more or less eulogy, is
thirty-two. Here is something analogous to Chatham
and Pitt. Stanley was an under-Secretary of State in
the Foreign Office during his father's short ministry
in 1852. I think him a sound Radical; he is usually
termed a Conservative Liberal; he frankly avows that
he entered the present Cabinet only because it is his
father's.

Young Viscount Bury, son of the Earl of Albemarle,
introduced his wife to me, and she subsequently pre-
sented her father. Sir Allan McNab ! I remember that,
when at St. Petersburg, in 1838, I wrote home to For-
syth, our Secretary of State, a violent condemnation of
the then Colonel McNab for his capture and destruction
of the steamer Caroline.

In the course of the day called on my neighbour, W.
S. Lindsay, M.P. He, Bright, Roebuck, and Milner
Gibson are pushing the point of abolishing the Light
Dues. They have agreed upon the fundamental princi-
ple that every civilized nation is bound to pay the ex-
pense of lighting its own coasts and waters ; and now
they are collecting materials for a strong and well-
digested movement. They have all kinds of difficulties
to encounter, — traditionary, corporate, and financial.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 253

Went to see Sir Henry Holland. He read me a part
of a letter he had just received from Paris, which repre-
sented France as honeycombed with secret societies, and
illustrated the strict system of espionage by the case of
a British nobleman, who, accustomed to regale himself
at a particular cafe with the Indipendance Beige and his
coffee, on one occasion, having called for his newspaper,
was handed one which had obviously been cut down
and pruned throughout by censorship. " Pshaw !" said
he, " give me the genuine article." The waiter busied
himself as if anxious to find it, when a third personage
stepped up, and requested his Lordship to accompany
him into an adjoining room. He demurred. The police-
card was shown him, and he was conducted to prison !
Sir Henry seemed to think the Emperor misled by his
" entourage."

An admirable leader in the Times against the insolent
pretension and effort of Louis Napoleon to enlist the
penal codes of all Europe for his personal purposes.
Belgium, Switzerland, and Sardinia yield, but Austria
indignantly takes fire.

1858. March 1 1. — Went to-night to Lord Salisbury's.
He is the new President of the Privy Council. I have
known him for some time, — a plain, unaffected gentle-
man, more of the rural character than political. His
house in London is large and handsome ; nothing equal,
however, to Hatfield, which I drove to while staying with
Bulwer Lytton at Knebworth. The grand staircase here
is uncommonly fine and effective. The saloons were
crowded; the principal one is very large, with arched
ceiling, and lighted by an immense hoop of wax candles
and a gas skylight. The furniture is unequal to the man-
sion. Met Bulwer Lytton, whom I have not encountered

254 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

for months, and expressed regret that he adhered to the
Nolo episcopari. He thought the Derby Cabinet would
be short-lived.

1858. March 12. — In the evening at Dr. Barlow's, one
of the secretaries to the British Institution, and thence to
Lord Overstone*s, where there were professional musi-
cians who played and sang finely. I had gone in the
afternoon to the House of Commons, where Mr. Disraeli
announced, as his first ministerial communication, that
the " painful misconceptions" between the English and
French Governments were satisfactorily settled. The
case of the two British engineers criminally prosecuted
at Naples, after being arrested on board the Cagliari, was
introduced, and an interesting debate sprung up, in which
the Chancellor of the Exchequer, as the leader for the
Cabinet, and his colleague, Mr. Fitzgerald, under-Secre-
tary of State, expressed the view of Government to ad-
here to the course of their predecessors ; while Lord Pal-
merston, Mr. Gladstone, Mr. Horsman, Mr. Roebuck, and
Lord John Russell urged that a recently-ascertained fact,
acknowledged by the Neapolitan functionaries in their
correspondence with Count Cavour, — to wit, that the
Cagliari was illegally captured on the high seas, —
changed the aspect of the case, and warranted a demand
for their sufTering countrymen.

Shoals of welcome letters from the United States.

1858. March 15. — Went to the Lords, expecting an
explanation or exculpation from the Marquess of Clanri-
carde on the subject of his conduct in the celebrated Han-
cock scandal. Odd enough, many ladies attended, as he
had given public notice of his intention. He abstained ;
perhaps on account of the audience. Lord Brougham
and Lord Chancellor Chelmsford (Thesiger) had a short

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 255

debate on a bill, and I was exceedingly gratified at wit-
nessing the dignity and talent with which the latter
triumphed over his great antagonist.

1858. March 16. — An evening paper states that one of
the French Colonels, devoted to the Emperor, has sent
a challenge to Mr. Roebuck, for what he said in one of
the recent discussions on the Conspiracy-to-Murder Bill.
So the desire to kill a political adversary is not confined
to the refugees in London !

By the by, Lord Malmesbury laid upon the table last
evening the correspondence with Walewski, which would
seem for the present to close the controversy on the ref-
ugee matter. Orsini and Pierri were guillotined on the
morning of Saturday last. They both behaved admira-
bly, the former especially so. In a little while their
names will be enrolled on the list of martyred patriots.

1858. March 17. — Queen's levee at half-past one; con-
siderably thronged. Dined with Mr. Lindsay, Milner
Gibson, Roebuck, Cairns, Lord Clarence Paget, Lord
Goderich, Lord Bury, Bramley Moore, and many more,
about twenty in all. After the dessert, discussed the
national duty of lighting the coasts free to foreign com-
merce. The motion to be introduced in the House of
Commons by Lord Paget was carefully considered;
three or four written forms for it submitted by Roebuck
and Gibson. I explained, at request, the constitutional
and legal condition of the Light-House Board in the
United States. They will probably shape their course
to obtain a similar executive department.

Heard in the course of the day many expressions of
sentiment which indicate that the correspondence between
Malmesbury and Walewski is very far from extracting
the poison from the wound inflicted on the alliance.

256 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Went to Lord Derby's reception.

1858. March 18. — Took the ladies to see some pictures
at present attracting notice. The principal one was a very
large painting, by Winterhalter, of the Empress Eugenie,
in the centre of a group of seven ladies of her Court.
They are all exceedingly beautiful, but too much alike
for distinctive portraits. One of the loveliest, perhaps
the very loveliest, is a daughter of Colonel Thome, of
New York. They are represented in woodland scenery,
seated or kneeling, and one or two standing. The Em-
press is on a sort of raised bank of green turf. Rich
flowers, in one large cluster, on the foreground. The
artist is of the French school of extreme finish.

There was also a fine large painting of Sir William
Williams and Staff quitting Kars; also a capital portrait
of the Princess Royal, marked as the property of the
Queen; engravings of great excellence of this last were
much admired. A number of fine and agreeable sketches
of the eight bridesmaids at the recent royal wedding.

Went to the House of Commons. Mr. Cairns came to
me in the gallery, and kindly offered to furnish the infor-
mation I am seeking for Senator Pearce respecting the
agricultural colleges and schools of England.

1858. March 24. — Barney Williams gave me the first
hearty laugh I have had since my mission began. His
wife exhibited great powers of transition in various per-
sonations. She represented an American lady, whose
English lover had suddenly withdrawn his attention and
gone travelling to Seville. She determined to pursue and
regain him ; and with some concert with others, and by
the assumption, at the hotel where all are collected, of
diflferent striking characters, remaining herself, in propria
persona^ invisible and incog., she finally effects her object.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 257

The farce is something of "She Stoops to Conquer."
She is a prima donna, a ballet-dancer, a capital London
exquisite, a Spanish bull-fighter, an Italian jealous hus-
band, and an American lady's maid. Mr. Williams had
been exceedingly attentive in his preparations to receive
us. A manager was at the door of the theatre to receive
our carriage and escort the ladies to their assigned box,
which was enlarged by the removal of a partition. Hand-
some bouquets of flowers lay on the broad front ledge ;
and at the close of " Rory O'More," the orchestra, after
playing other tunes, fell, as if casually, into " Hail,
Columbia !"

Went to Mr. Percival's, whose daughter married Wal-
pole, of the present Ministry. Queen's levee at two.
Dined with Mr. Darby Griffith, M.P. for Devizes. Went
at ten to meet the Duchess of Cambridge at Mrs. Bates',
certainly one of the most finished and elegant receptions
we have seen in London. Had a long and lively chat
with Earl Grey. The beauty of the youthful Duchess
of Manchester quite eblouissante. Proceeded finally to
Northumberland House, where the crowd was actually
crushing. Met Bulwer Lytton, and Judge Haliburton
was introduced to me.

1858. March 25. — Lord Salisbury's reception. Met
there Sir Charles Lyell, and made the acquaintance of
the celebrated Wheatstone, with whom I conversed for
some time. He is a friend of Dallas Bache and a
correspondent of Professor Henry.

1858. March 26. — Dined with Thomas Baring, meet-
ing Lord and Lady Monteagle, Count Straleski, who has
been in all parts of the world and knows everything, Mr.
and Mrs. Raikes Currie, Mr. McCuUoch, Mr. Panizzi, and
Mrs. Henry Baring. The Count knew Yeh of Canton,

2S8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

and said he was grossly travestied by the press and in
engravings. The Duke of Malakoff he represented as
even more corpulent than Panizzi. The gallery — and,
indeed, all the rooms constitute a crowded gallery — was
brilliantly lighted up, and afforded, after dinner, a de-
lightful lounge. Paintings and objects of vertu are
multitudinous and exquisite.

1858. March 27. — Mr. Disraeli introduced the new
India bill of the new Cabinet in the House of Commons
last night. His speech, explanatory of its provisions,
was uncommonly clear and good. The project of the
Government is exceedingly bold and complicated. A
Minister of the Crown, with a seat in Parliament, and a
Council of eighteen, — nine Councillors nominated by the
Crown, nine elective ; of the elective, five chosen by the
present constituencies of London, Manchester, Liverpool,
Glasgow, and Belfast, one by each, and four by Indian
constituencies, — that is, constituencies who have served
in India prescribed periods, hold public stock of East
India Company, or are registered proprietors of India
railway stock to the amount of two thousand pounds ;
these constituencies are estimated at five thousand.
Novel as the plan is, it improves upon Lord Palmerston's,
by avoiding patronage. In some of its features it is es-
sentially clap-trap. It was denounced by Roebuck and
Bright, and will have a hard road to travel.

The Ministry are beginning to tell by their measures.
They have got the two engineers out of the cells of
Naples; they have stunned the world with their India
Bill; they have seemingly quieted France; and now
their changes in the Diplomatic Corps are revealed.
They send to Vienna, in place of Sir Hamilton Seymour,
Lord A. Loftus, now Secretary at Berlin ; to Madrid, vice

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 259

Howden, Mr. Buchanan, now Minister at Copenhagen ;
to St. Petersburg, instead of Lord Wodehouse, my
quondam friend Crampton ; to Copenhagen, Mr. Elliot,
now Secretary at Vienna ; to Florence, Mr. Howard, now
Secretary at Paris; and to Paris, as Secretary. Lord
Chelsea.

In the evening, at Lady Palmerston's, Lord Palmerston
pounced upon me the question, what I thought of the
new India bill ? and I plumply answered that it struck
me as a brilliant specimen of imaginative statesmanship,
a perfect labyrinth of intricate and incongruous details.
He said it was an odd mess and wholly impracticable.

We dined at Lord Malmesbury's, whose house is in
Whitehall Gardens. There were at table my colleague
Lavradio, of Portugal, and his wife, Lord and Lady In-
gestrie, Bulwer Lytton, Colonel Lennox, Lady Manners,
Mr. Bidwell, etc. Everything exceedingly plain. Lady
Malmesbury, a most intelligent and agreeable woman,
complained of the prevailing violence of party-spirit,
and the discomforts ungenerously produced by the op-
position. His Lordship's family name is Harris ; he is
fifty-one years of age ; he held the Foreign Office under
Lord Derby as Prime Minister, 1852; his wife is Emma
Clorisande, daughter of the Earl of Tankerville. I can-
not yet pretend to have formed an opinion of the new
Secretary. He is of a meditative aspect, slow in address,
a countenance that lights up agreeably, and rather chary
of speech.

1858. March 30. — Dined with Mr. Moffat, M.P., Eaton
Square; Mr. Villiers, Mr. Delane, Mr. Morrison, Colonel
Scarlett, Phil, and another M.P. Colonel Scarlett has
just returned from a seven months' range in the United
States, and is enthusiastic in expressing his delight. He

26o DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

was in the Crimea, and as an observing soldier was
struck with the American Kit, in every respect four to
one better than the English.

1858. April 6. — Yesterday, Mr. Latrobe, of Baltimore,
Sir Henry Holland, young Tricoupi and his sister, and
Dr Gullen, of the navy, dined with us. We had a cap-
ital dinner, and were gay until near twelve at night.
Latrob.e spent several months in St. Petersburg, whence
he has just returned, as counsel for the railway con-
tractors, Winans & Co., who paid him a fee of sixty
thousand dollars, paid his expenses, and treated him en
prince. He agreeably revived our recollections of per-
sons and places in the Russian capital.

Easter has thinned London, and few incidents worth
noting come to my attention.

Went to-day to the studio of Cropsey. His land-
scapes are admirable. They are nearly all of American
scenery. His largest and best are a view of the Green
Mountains in Vermont and one of the fall scenery on
the Susquehanna. Others are beautiful sketches on the
Hudson. The richness of colouring which marks the
foliage of our autumn is scarcely understood here, and
rather depreciated as extravagant and untrue to nature.

1858. April 8. — The capture of Lucknow by Sir Colin
Campbell is officially announced.

1858. AprU g. — Invited to the Foreign Office by Lord
Malmesbury. His conversation is a decided earnest of
conciliatory dispositions on the part of the new Ministry.
His lordship avowed that he thought the American Con-
tinent was destined to be absorbed by the United States,
and why be perpetually resisting what cannot be pre-
vented? for his part he had no objection. He wished
to put an end to every difference between England and

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 26 1

America. The proposal to arbitrate the subjects of dis-
agreement as to the Clayton and Bulwer Treaty was
still open for acceptance ; but, if declined, the abrogation
of that Convention, as intimated in the President's mes-
sage, would not be objected to by this government.

1858. April II. — A strong article in the Spectator oi
yesterday deplores the total unfitness of the English
existing statesmen to govern the country. Every one
has in succession failed, whether Whig or Tory. This
would, in a liberal quarter, seem to be specially aimed
against Lord Palmerston.

Commodore Armstrong represents public affairs in
China to be upside down. A joint remonstrance with
the English, French, and Russian Ministers to the Em-
peror may possibly have been signed ; but they do not
act together in measures of hostility. He tells me a
curious fact : that all the originals of the Treaties hereto-
fore made with the Chinese by the western powers, in-
cluding ourselves, were found at Canton, showing beyond
a doubt that they had never been transmitted to Pekin,
and were wholly unknown to the Imperial government !
It is a singular feature of the Chinese social and political
polity that no common bond or sympathy exists between
adjoining districts: each has to settle its own quarrels;
that one should be attacked and detached violently from
the others, is regarded with unconcern, or at most as a
matter for the local mandarins to rectify.

Our charge d'affaires at Brussels called. Changarnier,
residing in Belgium, expressed to him utter amazement
at the appointment of Malakoff to London, and could
only understand it as the entering wedge to a breach.
He was of opinion that though it might be almost im-
possible to effect the landing of a French army in Eng-

23*

262 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

land, yet if that were accomplished with twenty thousand
men, the island would be conquered. Mr. Clark ridiculed
the idea. I did not ; on the contrary, my impression was
that a promise not to interfere with the personal and
property rights of the great body of the people would
keep them quiet; that the oligarchy had succeeded in
finally extinguishing patriotism. To be sure, if they
had a large or adequate standing army stationed at home,
it would fight bravely, for it would be paid for fighting ;
but, en masse^ the people would not stir an inch as vol-
unteers to save a system which has driven the cold iron
of contempt into their very souls, and grinds them to
dust with taxes.

Bonaparte is overshooting himself by excessive mys-
tery. He is at something, but no one can imagine what.
England watches, Austria fears, Italy hopes, Belgium
cowers, Germany dreams.

1858. April 13. — Went to the Commons. Lord John
Russell on his feet, proposing that the principles and
details of the India Government be settled by a series
of resolutions in committee. Obviously, he wants to
help the administration over the stile, and to plant him-
self in the attitude of great mediator. Horsman and
Margies approve. Sir C. Wood, Lord Palmerston, and
Bouverie oppose. Disraeli, like a drowning man, catches
at the straw, says he will prepare the resolutions, and
eulogizes Lord John.

1858. April 15. — Drove to the House of Lords at five.
Malmesbury explained in detail the position of the pass-
port system as recently agreed upon between England
and France. Another well-conducted achievement of
the present Ministry. Lord Clarendon spoke upon
the subject, as did Earl Grey. All hands joined in con-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 263

demning as useless and even injurious the whole policy
of passports. But it was said " a passport interest" had
grown up on the Continent which would not give up its
fees, and was too strong to be put down by the Emperor,
whose aversion to the system as ineffective and illusory
had been declared to Lord Clarendon himself.

Pelissier reached London to-day, accompanied by two
military aids.

1858. April 16. — The prosecution closed its case
against Bernard last night, and his counsel, James, ad-
dressed the jury this morning. He was loudly applauded
by the bystanders and from the gallery when he defied
the French Emperor, and called on the jury to resist
the encroachments of a foreign dictation against the
British principle of protecting political refugees. His
argument was specious, admitting his client to have fur-
nished weapons to Orsini, but not for the purpose of
assassinating Louis Napoleon: only with a view to a
general rising in Italy. He so often quit the evidence
to draw upon unproved facts that he betrayed the con-
sciousness of a bad case. The jury cannot avoid con-
victing, unless they listen more to their feelings than to
the testimony.

1858. April 17. — A significant and pregnant event has
surprised the upper circles of London. Bernard is
acquitted ! The verdict was received by the crowd in
Court with prolonged and irrepressible cheers. At Lord
"Palmerston's, to-night, nothing else was talked of. Lord
St. Leonards said it indicated the rising tide of republi-
canism. The incident, in my opinion, is a striking man-
ifestation of the popular aversion to Louis Napoleon
and his despotic measures. All the law, all the witnesses,
all the judges in the kingdom, could not have induced

264 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

the jury to find a verdict flattering to the wishes and
policy of the Emperor. Lord Campbell, in his charge,
left one loop-hole for their consciences, and they bounded
through it He told them that it was possible they might
construe a particular part of the evidence, which he con-
sidered of great importance, as tending to show that,
though engaged in a conspiracy for a general rising in
Italy, Bernard never contemplated an attack on Louis
Napoleon; if they conscientiously believed that to be
the case, he could not be convicted on the indictment
before them. The accused, at the close of the judge's
charge, took this ground in a short exclamation, accom-
panied by violent gesticulation and great loudness of
voice, producing a powerful impression. " Not a drop
of the blood shed on the 14th of January is on my soul.
But, conspire ! Yes, I did conspire, as every man should,
against those who were destroying liberty."

1858. April 19. — At Lord Malmesbury's in the even-
ing. The Duke of Malakoff was there, a stout, not fat,
short, not little, sturdy, and compact man, with closely-
cut white hair, black eyebrows, and black moustache.
Something of the brute about him, but unaffected.

1858. April 21. — First at the Botanic Garden, second
at Northumberland House, and third at the Prime Min-
ister's. Got myself presented to Pelissier, who immedi-
ately asked how the Kansas question stood ? With all
their affected indifference, these European politicians
have a keen eye for American differences ! Conversed
long with Lord Derby about the leading forms of legis-
lation in the two countries ; here, every important meas-
ure is matured by and introduced from the government;
no standing committees, as we have.

1858. April 22. — Queen's drawing-room at St. James's.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 265

In the evening at Lord Chelmsford's (Thesiger), a very
crowded party, being his first since promotion. His
daughter, Mrs. Major Inglis, recently from the siege of
Lucknow, was introduced to me by her father. A
robust, but interesting Englishwoman. Lord Campbell
appeared rather pleased than otherwise at the verdict
of the jury in Bernard's case. He said the case had
been ably and elaborately submitted. It was ascertained
that Bernard was not to be tried again, although the
remaining bill was merely a conspiracy, on the ground
that " nemo debet bis vexari pro eadem causal So, the
refugee conspirator is safe.

1858. April 24. — At Lord Palmerston's by eleven at
night. Uncomfortably crowded and hot. Malakoff the
lion. Talked a good deal to Cardwell, member from
Oxford. He said that if the French attacked, he pre-
sumed the United States would come to \}ci€\r protection.
I said they needed no protection, but that America
would certainly never passively witness a confederacy
of Continental despots against British liberty and in-
dependence.

In the House of Commons, last night, Mr. Disraeli,
being threatened by Lord John Russell with opposition
to his resolutions if he did not do so, finally withdrew
or abandoned the government's India bill ! This is, in-
deed, a most rapid surrender of a measure which thun-
dered in the index ! Strong proof, too, of the powerful
position of Lord John.

Being asked my opinion, by Sir Edward Cust, on the
question of international law involved in the seizure and
condemnation of the Cagliari, now threatening to bring
Piedmont and Naples by the ears, I said that my lean-
ing was all with the constitutional government of Sar-

266 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

dinia; but that, as the vessel had confessedly been em-
ployed as a means of piratical violence upon the coast
of Sicily, she was liable to the hot pursuit of the aggrieved
sovereignty, and might justly be captured, thus pursued,
anywhere.

1858. April '^o. — ^The Queen's levee on Wednesday
was well attended, as the militia were disbanded, and
the officers crowded to take official leave. One painful
incident occurred. Something, indeed, always happens at
these royal receptions, trifling in themselves, but made
serious by the " entourage,** A veteran of the army,
hardly short of eighty, on reaching her Majesty, was
directed by the Lord Chamberlain to kneel and kiss her
hand. The old gentleman had one leg infirm, and, what
with embarrassment and lameness and general debility,
as he attempted to conform he fell prostrate backwards.
The interest and kindness manifested by the Queen were
exceedingly graceful, and seemed to more than compen-
sate the old soldier for the untoward accident, for he
looked round, on rising, with an expression of counte-
nance which said, ** Who would not fall thus to be so
lifted ?"

On the same Wednesday dined with Mr. Vernon
Smith. Was highly entertained by my left neighbour
at the table, a Mr. Hubbard, whose family was originally
from Jamaica, and whose hereditary estates there have
been entirely ruined by the Emancipation Act. He, and
Mr. Raikes Currie beyond him, talked much to me
about the present state of politics : finding fault, as did
also Mr. Grote, with the submissive deportment of the
opposition, and characterizing Lord John Russell as the
very incarnation of political mischief. The historian was
there, also Mr. Villiers, also a Mr. Reese just returned

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 267

from Lucknow (of the siege he has written a narrative),
and some six or eight others. At about eleven o'clock
went to Northumberland House, squeezing through a
frightful jam !

1858. May I. — Went last night to the Commons, ex-
pecting, from Lord Harry Vane's motion against India
legislation during the present session, a grand blow-out.
It proved a fizzle. Milner Gibson, Palmerston, and
Stanley spoke against it, and the division was four hun-
dred and forty-seven to fifty-seven !

1858. May 3. — The Queen's concert to-night at Buck-
ingham Palace was somewhat tedious. Lord Donough-
more, Vice-President of Board of Trade, and Sir Hamilton
Seymour, just from Vienna, had themselves introduced
to me : both gentlemen of high intelligence and mark.
Sir Hamilton spoke much about Lord Napier, who had
been his secretary of legation at St. Petersburg. Lord
Donoughmore discussed partially the legal question
connected with the prosecution of Bernard, — that is,
whether, under the statutory phrase of the Queen's
** subjects" it was possible to embrace an alien. He
thought not; and he understood that Lord Chief-
Justice Campbell, originally of a different opinion, had,
upon greater reflection, changed his mind. I did not
pretend to say what might be the interpretation put upon
an act of Parliament so recent as George IV. ; but I in-
sisted that, at common law, a conspiracy, matured here,
to commit murder abroad was indictable, whether the
accused were subjects or aliens, or both.

1858. May 6. — The drawing-room yesterday was
crowded and brilliant. At night, a ball at Lord Derby's,
given in the apartments in Downing Street appropriated

A I

268 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

to the first Lord of the Treasury, anything but suitable
to the wealth, pride, and pretension of his lordship.

The question as to the union of the principalities of
Wallachia and Moldavia was up in the Commons last
night on the motion of Gladstone for an address to the
Queen in favor of the expressed popular sense of those
countries. Lord John Russell, with his extreme Liberals,
took part with the Peelites; but Palmerston sided with
Disraeli, and so gave the government a large majority.
The decision amounts to an expression of opinion hostile
to the proposed union, as injurious to Turkey, subjecting
the provinces to Russia, dangerous to Austria, and of
no real good to the Moldo-Wallachians themselves.
The joint strength of the Peelites and Russellites was
one hundred and fourteen.

Dined to-day with Mr. Peabody at the Star and Garter,
Richmond ; it was to entertain Mr. and Mrs. W. B. Astor,
of New York, Mr. and Mrs. Sparks, etc.

1858. May 7. — Lord Canning's proclamation confis-
cating all the territory of Oude, with specified exceptions,
excites marked comment, as a measure alike cruel and
impolitic.

Dined at Sir Thomas Cochrane*s. Met the Duke of
Rutland, Earl of Combermere, Lord Braynham, etc., —
twenty in all. Had on my left the sister of the Duke of
Norfolk, — on my left, for that marks a point of etiquette !
We went to Sir Henry Holland's at eleven. Lord
Wensleydale and Mr. Milman, Dean of St. Paul's, were
there.

1858. May 8. — Invited by Count Lavradio, went to
Buckingham Palace for presentation to the new Queen
of Portugal, who, having been married by proxy, is on
her way to her consort. This lady is Stephanie Frede-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 269

rique, Princess of the House of HohenzoUern-Sigmarin-
gen. She was born in 1837, and, therefore, though repre-
sented to be, as she really looks, about eighteen, she is
full twenty-one. Her figure is good, her face healthy and
handsome, and her manner exceedingly unaffected and
prepossessing. The ceremony took place in the large
dining- and cloak-room, on the first floor, looking out
southward upon the gardens. She exchanged, in a very
low voice, a few words with each member of the corps as
he advanced. Her father abdicated in 1849 in favour of
the King of Prussia, who gave him the title of Highness
and made him Prime Prince of the Royal family. The
paper of this morning has a paragraph stating that her
husband, whom she has not seen, has just narrowly es-
caped being poisoned by one of his religious attendants !

At Lord Palmerston's in the evening. Lord Stratford
de Redcliffe, the Duke of Cambridge, Mr. Edwards,
formerly of the British Embassy at St. Petersburg, Mr.
Dundas, and heaps of Liberal commoners.

1858. May 10. — A resolution offered by Mr. Cardwell,
this evening, in the House, condemning the disapproba-
tion expressed in a despatch to India of Lord Canning's
proclamation in Oude, opens another ministerial crisis.
The resolution is imputed as a result of the meeting held
yesterday at Cambridge House, Lord Palmerston's, and
is equivalent to a want of confidence in her Majesty's
present advisers. It is assigned for discussion on Thurs-
day next. It is difficult to foresee the result, as the Radi-
cals, led by Bright, will probably oppose its adoption. If,
however, the Peelites, among whom Cardwell is generally
ranked, vote in a body for it, its success is most probable.
What course then will the Prime Minister take? Res-
ignation? that is hardly consonant with the resolute

2/0 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

character of Derby. A dissolution? that may not re-
ceive the Queen's assent. Much must depend upon the
attitude finally taken by Lord John Russell, who seems
to waver.

The Queen's ball to-night was more than usually
brilliant, owing, no doubt, to the presence of the Queen
of Portugal.

1858. May II. — In the election at Paris, Picard, the
opposition candidate, has prevailed over Eck, the gov-
ernment candidate; the former having ten thousand
three hundred and twenty-five votes, the latter eight
thousand nine hundred and seventy-six, — majority
against Louis Napoleon thirteen hundred and forty-
nine ! Thus, of the three representatives of Paris, two
are anti-Emperor. Will not this further provoke his
Majesty to fresh violence ?

A catastrophe for Lord Derby is obviously impend-
ing. The Times, the Post, and the Globe chime the ad-
vent of a crisis. A motion in the Lords seconds the
movement of Cardwell in the House.

Odd enough. Baron Rothschild, though excluded
from Parliament, has, in conformity with a precedent
raked up from the records of 1715, been placed by the
Commons upon their committee to "reason" with the
Lords on the Jew bill !

Lord Ellenborough, to save the Cabinet, has resigned
his office. This was announced in the Lords, with much
eulogy upon its chivalric disinterestedness, by Lord
Derby. The administration does not, however, give up
the obnoxious despatch addressed to the Governor-Gen-
eral, disapproving the proclamation ; so that this retire-
ment is merely personal, and can have no just influence
to prevent the prosecution of Mr. Cardwell's motion.

AT THE C0UR7 OF ST. JAMES, 2/1

Every development, arising out of careful scrutiny and
reflection, seems to justify Canning, and to prove that,
as to India, the Cabinet cannot safely be trusted.

1858. May 12. — Dined with Mrs. Dickson, who traces
a family connection with me. Her daughter married a
son of Lord De la Warr ; and we met at table his Lord-
ship and Lady De la Warr, also the Lord Chancellor and
Lady Chelmsford. Lord De la Warr recurred to the his-
torical fact that one of his ancestors was the first to enter
our river Delaware and plant a colony on its banks,
whence its name ; and he added that the tribe of Indians
then known as the Leni-Lenape adopted the name of
Delawares.

Went in the evening to a concert at the sumptuous
house of Mr. Ewing Curwen.

1858. May 13. — The ministerial crisis is fast and sternly
maturing. Mr. Cardwell persists with his motion of cen-
sure, and has strengthened it to-day by amending the
phraseology, and adjourned it till to-morrow. A change
of government seemed very generally expected ; whether
by resignation or dissolution of Parliament is doubtful,
though the partisans of the administration loudly threaten
the latter.

1858. May 14. — Went to the Commons. Cardwell
opened his resolution of censure with a well-poised and
well-delivered speech. The defence of the government
was spirited and able. The Solicitor-General, Cairns,
spoke better than any man I have yet heard in England.
His address seemed to produce an immense impression.
Came away at eleven, perceiving that the debate could
not possibly close to-night. It was adjourned over to
Monday. Lord John Russell took firm, if not fierce,
ground against the Ministry.

2/2 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

In the Lords, Shaftesbury, Argyll, Somerset, Grey,
Newcastle, and Granville sustained the censure; Car-
narvon, Ellenborough, and Derby resisted. The division
was taken on the motion for the previous question made
by the Lord Chancellor Chelmsford. Contents, one hun-
dred and fifty-eight, of which number sixty-five were
proxies; non-contents, one hundred and sixty-seven;
proxies, forty-nine; majority for the Cabinet, nine!
This is ominously small for the house of Peers.

1858. May 15. — A day of hard labour. A drawing-
room at St James's Palace. The Queen's birthday, and,
therefore, everything exceedingly brilliant. Dined with
Lord Malmesbury at the Foreign Office. The grand
annual birthday dinner of the diplomats. All present
After the Turk had toasted the Queen, Malmesbury got
up to give the comprehensive toast embracing the gov-
ernments of all the corps, and his sudden pause, as his
eye became fixed on me, was comical enough, and elic-
ited a laugh from my right-hand neighbour, Moreira, the
Brazilian. " Messieurs, buvons aux Souverains [pause]
et aux etats dont les honorables representants sont
presents !"

Went to Lord Derby's at eleven. A perfect and most
ridiculous jam.

No one speaks confidently of the result of the minis-
terial crisis, except the opposition. They claim a major-
ity of eighty or one hundred. If the Peelites are an ad-
hesive section, the higher figure may be reached ; and,
indeed, it may be attained by fragmentary tangents from
the extreme Liberals. But let us hear Mr. Gladstone
and Mr. Bright, and then we shall know how the main
bodies will move. The Radicals, by their intrigues with
the present Cabinet, as developed by Bright's conduct.

AT THE COURl Oh ST. JAMES, 2/3

springing out of their morbid antipathy to Lord Palmer-
ston, are in danger of losing their identity and of merging
into the Tory party. The great obstacle to producing a
harmonious organization of the Whigs arose, as Sir John
Harding assured me, from the direful rivalry between the
ladies of the two noblemen aspiring to the Premiership.
It is now understood that the gentlemen have agreed to
occupy whatever offices their friends may assign them
to after the Derby Ministry shall be expelled. The pre-
vailing impression is that, if defeated. Lord Derby will
appeal to the people by a dissolution of Parliament. I
think this doubtful ; because if such an appeal, under ex-
isting circumstances, proved unsuccessful, his party could
never again rally. But if he withdraw with dignified ac-
quiescence from the Treasury bench, quietly cultivate the
Radicals and the discontented Liberals, and " bide his
time/* it is impossible but that he should have an early
opportunity to overthrow the Liberals, whose leaders
are secretly at bitter enmity, and who are weary as to
reform of that hope deferred which maketh the heart
sick. As a national representative, I have reason to
prefer Derby to either Palmerston or Russell.

1858. May 17. — Dined with Mr. Edward EUice, meet-
ing Lord Ashburton, Lord Dufferin, Mr. Dundas, Mr.
Delane, etc.

1858. May 18. — Dined with Sir Alexander Spearman;
a company of eighteen.

1858. May 20. — First visit ever paid to the Roths-
childs. Went in the evening to the reception of the
Fine Arts Club. Large and long table covered with
antique and curious specimens of porcelain or china-
ware.

1858. May 21. — Went to the House of Commons, and

24*

274 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

witnessed the close of the ministerial crisis, by Mr.
Cardwell's withdrawing the motion for a vote of cen-
sure. New and explanatory letters were received from
Lord Canning this morning, and gave quite a different
aspect to the question. It became obvious that the
policy of the confiscating proclamation had been ear-
nestly disputed by Sir Colin Campbell and Sir James
Outram; that, at their instance, a modifying clause
had been introduced ; and that, however roughly Lord
EUenborough had addressed the Governor-General in
the obnoxious despatch (a roughness atoned for by
his resignation as President of the Board of Control),
there was at the bottom a principle of justice and clem-
ency which should protect the Government from blame.
As soon as the matter came before the House, Liberal
after Liberal, in various quarters, and especially among
the Radicals, rose to request Mr. Cardwell to withdraw
his motion. He at first declined doing so. The requi-
sitions became general. Lord Palmerston soon rose,
and expressed a hope that the member from Oxford
would conform to the wishes of the House ; and there-
upon, without comment, Mr. Cardwell withdrew his
motion. The effect of this break-down, or fizzle, of a
grand demonstration by the opposition must be to
strengthen the Government. The menace of a dissolu-
tion had its natural effect upon a body only recently
elected, a large number of whose members could not
relish the idea of incurring the hazards and expenses
of a new election. Besides, it proves the firmness and
ability of the Ministry, and inspires the country with
more confidence. I look upon the Government of
Lord Derby as really beginning to poise itself in
conscious strength.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 2/5

1858. May 22. — Dined with Mr. Young; thence went
to Lord Palmerston's.

1858. May 23. — Dined with Lord Broughton; met
Professor Felton, of Cambridge, Massachusetts, Mr.
Ellice, Mr. Panizzi, Lord Glenelg, etc. Discussed
Guizot's first volume of " Memoires pour servir a
THistoire," etc. Mr. Ellice talked a great deal of
politics, and seemed discontented with the state of
things.

1858. May 25. — Went in the evening to Lord Chief-
Justice Campbell's. Impossible to convey to his learned
Lordship's head an exact idea of the limited and federate
character of the Government of the United States. He
insists that Congress should suppress polygamy among
the Mormons. I in vain tell him that, whatever may be
the power of the local Legislature, Congress has nothing
to do with religious belief, domestic relations, morals, or
manners. Yet I hope the President will seize the oppor-
tunity given by their rebellion to disperse a vile super-
stitious sect which may, if allowed to take root, poison
the whole frame ot our social structure.

1858. May 29. — Two despatches from the State De-
partment reached me on the subject of interference by
British cruisers with our commerce in the West Indies
and on the African coast, which may lead to important
results. Have requested an interview with Lord Malmes-
bury.

1858. Jufic 6. — Constant employment on the ques-
tions pending with the Foreign Office has prevented
me from making memoranda. The conduct of the
British naval cruisers is intolerable, and creates great
anxiety as to the relations of the two countries. The
cases of the Cortes, the A. A, Chapman, the Mobile, the

2/6 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Tropic Bird, and the comprehensive visitation of all our
merchantmen in Sagua la Grande, connected with an
arrogant general surveillance, make out a story of
national outrage worse than anything heretofore ex-
perienced. I regard the emergency as justifying, nay,
requiring, instructions to the United States Minister at
this Court to demand peremptory orders to British naval
officers on every station to cease visiting American ves-
sels, and if not given in a fortnight, to ask his passports
and quit the kingdom. My conviction is that such a
course would be successful, and that our relations of
amity would at once be restored and strengthened. I
am afraid we are not prepared for so resolute a proceed-
ing, and that we might suffer much at first; but we
should soon rise to the proper national elevation and
strength, and be advanced a century in dignity and char-
acter. The people at large never have faltered, and
never will falter, in sustaining those who assert the inde-
pendence and rights of their country.

A few days ago Sir E. B. Lytton accepted the Colo-
nial Office, and Lord Stanley is transferred to the Presi-
dency of the India Board of Control. The Ministry is
becoming firmer and abler. It has a trump card in the
American embroglio, which, if promptly and frankly
played, will bind the Radicals permanently to them.

1858. June 8. — I ought to mark this day with a white
stone, for, after great anxiety and labour, with varying
hopes and fears for more than a week, I have succeeded
in effecting an arrangement with Lord Malmesbury, —

1, that our construction of the law of nations, denying
the right of visit and search in time of peace, is adopted ;

2, that the aggressive acts complained of are, if true,
wholly disavowed ; 3, that a mode of verifying a flag

A 7 THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 2//

hoisted by a merchantman shall be ascertained by nego-
tiation alone ; and, 4, that the practice of search be at
once discontinued under peremptory orders. The con-
cessions are complete ; so much so that I should be un-
able to realize their having been obtained, but for the
" Minute" made in writing at my request by the Earl
himself

1858. June 9. — The Queen's state ball to-night. I was
felicitated by the whole of the Diplomatic Corps present
upon the success of my efforts on the Right of Search
question. Most of them profit by it. They knew the
general results from a speech made by Lord Malmes-
bury in the House of Lords. One of the Cabinet, Earl
of Hardwicke, Privy Seal, engaged me for some time in
conversation on the subject. He thought too much had
been conceded, but said he was content, as no concession
was bad which was necessary to prevent a war.

1858. June 10. — Reception and dance at Lady Palmer-
ston's. Had conversation with Stanley of Alderney, who
seemed astonished when I gave an unqualified contradic-
tion to the statement he borrowed from the Titnes^ that
slaves were sent into the United States from Cuba. I
told him that was the way in which a bad cause was
perpetually striving to bolster itself by inventions.

1858. June II. — Queen's levee. The Duke of Mala-
koff presumed that I was now softened by disavowal and
concession. " Oui," I replied, " beaucoup !" At night
Lord Combermere's, to meet the Duchess of Cambridge,
etc., and Mrs. Mansfield's at twelve. Told at Mrs. Mans-
field's that Lord Malmesbury in the upper, and Mr. Dis-
raeli in the lower, House, had announced another and
signal diplomatic success, the Court of Naples having
paid the demanded compensation of three thousand

2/8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

pounds to the two English engineers, and placed the
Cagliari at the disposition of the Queen of England !

1858. June 15. — The heat has been excessive for sev-
eral days, and to-night it is so great that, at the Marquess
of Camden's, it looked like insanity to be crushing and
sweltering in crowds and dances ; yet all London seemed
to be there.

Made an engagement to receive the recently-arrived
Venezuelan Minister, who has brought me a letter from
our charge at Caraccas. The design of the interview I
understand to be to enlist my good offices here against
the extraordinary intervention made by the joint French
and British naval commanders in favor of Monagas.

1858. June 16. — Lansdowne House and the Lord Chan-
cellor's. Lord Clarendon and Delane asked me simulta-
neously the question, " Are you going to make war upon
us ?" I thought war seemed more imminent from the
French armaments.

1858. June 17. — Rumor of an attack by a British
cruiser upon one of our vessels in the Gulf of Pensacola,
and a seaman killed. If this prove true, we shall be at
loggerheads soon ; and God speed the right.

In the afternoon went to the House of Lords. The
Bishop of Oxford presented a petition from Jamaica
against the conduct of Spain as to the slave-trade. He
introduced it with an able speech. He was followed by
Brougham, Malmesbury, Aberdeen, Grey, etc. Lord
Malmesbury distinct in stating that his arrangement with
me, giving up visit and search, was after consultation
with the law officers of the Crown.

1858. June 18. — The New York //i?r^A/ disproves the
reported aggression off Pensacola, and represents the
idea of war as blown over. There would appear to have

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 279

been great exaggeration in the accounts of outrage. It
is, perhaps, owing to this discovery that I have had no
new cases sent me from the State Department. The
four or five received are far from being strong ones in
incident or evidence.

At the Queen's concert. An unusually numerous
company. More than common display of plate in the
supper-room, in consequence, I suppose, of the presence
of the Belgian King, his daughter, the Duchess of Bra-
bant, and his two sons. Quite unexpectedly to me, his
Majesty singled me out of a group in which I was stand-
ing, conversing with Lord Palmerston. He said, " You
are doing a great deal of good at this Court. Two such
great nations as the United States and England should
not quarrel, but remove all causes of difference." He is
certainly politically interested in preserving the general
peace.

1858. June 19. — Mr. Peabody gave us a dinner of
sixty at the ** Star and Garter" on Richmond Hill. An
Englishman insisted upon toasting the President, and I
was requested to respond, which I did in a short speech,
concluding, "The Queen, and our own countrywomen."

1858. June2\, — Princess's Theatre to see Charles Kean
in " Shylock." The scenic contrivances to portray the
peculiar structure and festivities of Venice were very
effective and beautiful. The acting wanted power.

1858. June 23. — Lord Mayor's dinner to her Majesty's
Ministers. A company of about three hundred and fifty.
All the Diplomatic Corps present except Bernstorff and
Van de Weyer, who were commanded to the palace,
and Tricoupi, who is in Paris. The pick of the Ministry
were absent, — Derby, Disraeli, and Bulwer Lytton. The
burthen of replying to the toast in honor of them fell

28o DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

upon the Lord Chancellor. He was dreadfully tedious.
The two Ambassadors made speeches ; that of Malakoff
had French neatness and grace in it. Sir John Paking-
ton, the Marquess of Salisbury, the Elarl of Hardwicke,
Mr. Walpole, and the Solicitor-General, Mr. Cairns, all
spoke, and, with the exception of Pakington, made poor
displays. I was prepared, if called up, with a decided
expression of my confidence in the ** friendly disposition,
uniform courtesy, and frank international justice'* of the
existing Government. This would probably have done
them more good than the vapid addresses delivered
among themselves. One feature in their public oratory
they ought to drop, — their servile flattery of their faithful
ally.

The pestiferous condition of the Thames much talked
of. The smells thrown from the mud flats when the
tide is out threaten to break up the sessions of Par-
liament.

1858. July 5. — Yesterday, the Fourth of July, was com-
memorated for the first time, at a public dinner, by an
association of Americans at London Tavern, in the city.
The company was large, and remained together, speak-
ing most tediously to toasts, until twelve at night. I
thought the occasion a good one for announcing defi-
nitely the cessation of visiting or searching our merchant
vessels.

Dined with the Duke of Newcastle; a brilliant and
delightful company, — Lord Brougham, Earl Stanhope,
Earl Grey, Lord Broughton, Bishop of Oxford, Sir
Charles Wood, Lord Ashburton, Mr. Gladstone, etc.

1858. July 7. — Dined with Lord Clancarty, William T.
Le Poer Trench, an Irish peer of large landed estates, a
Conservative; met there the Lord Chancellor. Two

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 28 1

more suddenly spoiled persons by their elevation than
Lord and Lady Chelmsford, it is difficult to find any-
where. We can scarcely recognize, in their manner and
conversation, those whom we liked. Honores mutant
mores,

1858. July 8. — For a day or two past the newspapers
have been quite agreeable, as well as lively, about my
remarks at the dinner on Monday, the 5th. There, of
course, must be some to find fault, but I have not seen
or heard of them. " Let him not know it, and he's not
robbed at all."

1858. July II. — Dined yesterday with Mr. William R.
Seymour Fitzgerald, under Secretary for Foreign Affairs.
This gentleman, whose parentage is unnoticed, is, as he
told me, in his forty-first year, was educated at Oriel
College, Oxford, and is a Liberal Conservative. At table
we had Lord Malmesbury, Sir John Pakington, Admiral
Von Dorkum, Mr. Bidwell, etc. His collection of old
English portraits — several large Vandykes — is attrac-
tive. He had a gold snuff'-bo>c with the initials of C. J.
on the lid, and some splendid porphyry vases, whose
bases were similarly marked, which he said were pres-
ents from Bernadotte.

1858. July 12. — The House of Commons discussed the
slave-trade to-night usque ad nauseam. In the course of
the debate, Mr. Fitzgerald read an extract from a recent
letter of Lord Napier, depicting the entire satisfaction of
the Secretary of State with the " Minute."

1858. July 14. — At the Russian Legation, the first en-
tertainment, a ball, since Brunow's return to his former
position. A most brilliant and crowded and hot assem-
blage. I noticed an indication of changed politics some-
what striking. In one of the rooms were recently hung

282 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

new and handsome full-length portraits in oil of Louis
Napoleon and Eugenie. These little symptoms mark
the progress of a disease quite as distinctly as avowals.

Before going to Brunow's, went for an hour to the
Duchess of Somerset's. Music — especially the delightful
violin of the Swedish girl, Miss Humber.

1858. July 17. — At Lord Palmerston*s to dinner.
Musurus, Cetto, Azeglio, Lords Shaftesbury, Wode-
house, Ashley, were there; Mr. J. P. Kennedy also.
Lord and Lady Shaftesbury express themselves very
strongly about the kind and hospitable manner in which
their son, Mr. Ashley, has been received in America. I
talked a good deal to Lord Wodehouse about St. Peters-
burg, where he has been Minister for two years. A
monument to the Emperor Nicholas is in progress, — a
colossal central figure, and at each corner of the base
one of the females of his family, — the Empress, Marie,
Olga, and Alexandra.

At eleven o'clock went to General Peel's, principal
Secretary of State for War. He is the brother of the
celebrated Sir Robert, who died by a fall from his horse
in 1850, is a member from Huntingdon, and was born in
1799. ^^s made very little figure in Parliament, but is
highly respected for strong, sense and strict integrity. A
Tory, or rather a Conservative, of course. I here met
for the first time M. Guizot. A small figure, white hair,
and small crowning scratch, dressed in black, with a large
star on his left breast, and much activity of manner. His
eye remarkably fine and expressive. He boarded me at
once with a compliment for my having so admirably re-
moved the last source of quarrel between this country
and the United States. He said he had tried the same
thing while here as Envoy, but could accomplish nothing.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 283

I shall probably permanently consider this accidental
meeting with Guizot as among the most agreeable
casual incidents of my mission to London. However
debatable he may be, he has, as a statesman and author,
made a strong mark on his times.

In the refreshment-room at General Peel's I noticed
several large pieces of gold and silver plate. One was a
silver shield, as large as that of Achilles, representing Wel-
lington on the field of Waterloo ordering up the Guards
for the final charge ; a rich specimen of art.

1858. /ufy 18. — The squadron which returned from
the unsuccessful efforts to lay the Atlantic electric cable,
has refitted with coal, etc., and quit again to-day for
another attempt.

1858. /ufy 20. — Great preparations making for the Im-
perial fetes at Cherbourg. These are to commemorate
the inauguration of a monument to Napoleon I. and the
completion of an important part of the naval fortification.
Queen Victoria will "assist," accompanied by an im-
posing fleet, and followed by her Ministers, many of her
Lords, and a large body of her Commons. The French
keep in the background the fact that on the same occa-
sion they will open a railway from Paris to Cherbourg,
which will enable them to disgorge in twelve hours on
board of their immense steam squadron, for immediate
transfer to the white cliffs of England, eighty or a hun-
dred thousand soldiers. Is the Norman conquest destined
to be re-enacted ? Strange that this frowning battlement,
overlooking the channel as a permanent menace, should be
flatteringly hailed by the courtesies of a British sovereign !
Is she struck with judicial blindness?

1858. Jufy 21. — Dined with the Attorney-General, Sir
Fitzroy Kelly. Met the Earl of Hardwicke, Mr. Walpole,

284 DIARY 01' GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Mr. Corry, Baron Bentinck, Sir H. Rawlinson, etc. ; in all
about twenty-five. Sir Charles M. Burrell, the father of the
House, fifty-two years a member.

1858. July 26. — Mr. Mason, Mr. J. Van Buren, and
others dined with us. I took the first to see the House
of Lords, which he had never had an opportunity to visit.
While engaged in pointing out to him the distinguished
characters on the floor, Lord Lyndhurst rose, and, to my
amazement more than my amusement, began a speech
by quoting an extract from my remarks made at the
London Tavern on the 5th of July. He proceeded to
establish the American case on the right of visit and
search in a manner at once lucid, logical, and conclu-
sive; and he closed by some very kind and eulogistic
reference to the " high character" I bore at home and
had maintained here. I certainly am grateful for the
good opinion of a man so crowned with years, wisdom,
and universal reverence, but I felt awkwardly at being
accidentally present. Mason was enchanted, and pro-
nounced his argument as triumphant as it was simple,
and commented especially upon his wonderful felicity
in the selection and location of the very fittest words.
Lyndhurst is in his eighty-seventh year, rises from his
seat with difficulty, sees with uncertainty, shakes with
every attempt to gesticulate, and yet is Nestor in the
distinctness of his enunciation, — the calm, clear flow of
his eloquence ! Both " Burke's Peerage" and the " Par-
liamentary Companion" assign his birth to 1772, but
ignore his place of nativity, — America. He has passed
through the professional offices of Solicitor-General,
Attorney- General, Master of the Rolls, Lord Chancel-
lor thrice, and Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer.
His weight as a lawyer is preponderate.

AT THE C0UR7 OF ST. JAMES. 285

1858. July 28. — The Times of to-day contains an ad-
mirable editorial on the topic of Lord Lyndhurst's speech
of Monday last.

Dined with the Dowager Duchess of Somerset Met Sir
Fitzroy Kelly, the Attorney-General, General Sir William
Williams, of Kars, etc. Much conversation about com-
petitive examination preliminary to civil and military
appointments, — General Williams for, Sir Fitzroy Kelly
against. I asked if there was not the danger of pre-
paratory cramming leading to advance memory alone,
to the neglect of the other intellectual faculties. After
dinner we had excellent and interesting music. The
young Swedish girl played charmingly on the violin,
a ravir. This, I am in hopes, will prove the last dining
out of the present season.

1858. August I. — Received an interesting letter from
our Minister to China. It shows him a thorough and
firm pacificator: somewhat as such opposed in views
and measures to Lord Elgin and Baron Gros, but closely
in junction with Pontiatine. I am afraid, however, that
the English and French Ministers understand the Chinese
character better than he does, and that, by taking the forts
at the mouth of the river and advancing nearer towards
Pekin, they will have intimidated the Emperor to any
treaty they dictate. He thinks that if the Chinese for-
bear to fight, and only " retire," Elgin and Gros will be
nonplussed. He accompanies them up the river, not-
withstanding.

1858. August 2. — Parliament was prorogued to-day at
twelve M. by commission.

1858. August 4. — A sort of maelstrom current has set

from all quarters towards Cherbourg. The Emperor

and Empress left Paris yesterday en route. The Pera,

25*

286 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

a steamer engaged for the purpose, goes freighted with
a hundred members of the House of Commons. The
Royal flotilla, headed by the Albert, goes at three to-
day. The weather looks unpromising and rain threatens.

1858. August 5. — The news of the day is unexpected
and inspiriting. The Atlantic telegraph is announced
as a success ! The Agamemnon is at Valentia, and
the Niagara in Trinity Bay, both engaged in fastening
their shore ends of the cable. Yesterday the stock of
the company was at two hundred or three hundred
pounds, to-day it has risen to eight hundred or one
thousand pounds !

We paid to-day our second visit to Hampton Court,
and spent three hours in re-examining the paintings.
The gallery has many points of great interest. The
cartoons of Raphael, the Holbeins, the Lelys, the Van-
dykes, the Titians, the Wests are exceedingly attractive.
We lunched at the King's Arms. Went to the grape-
vine, a wonder of ninety years of age, spreading from a
single trunk, and covering the ceiling of a large glass
house with clusters of fruit ; and we closed by a walk in
Bushy Park, amid hundreds of sporting children and
several crowded picnic-parties under the famous horse-
chestnuts.

1858. August T. — The success of the Atlantic cable is
beyond a doubt. Communications will be delayed by
the necessity of putting up the speaking machinery sent
out from this country. The delay may extend to three
weeks. Should there be a snap in the meanwhile, the
operators will be charged with a system of fraudulent
misrepresentation to raise their stock. It would have
been discreet to withhold their announcement until an
actual public or private message had come from America.

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 28/

1858. August 10. — All the English visitors to Cher-
bourg have returned. Some rather discontented. This
exhibition of Imperial success and power will not
rivet the alliance any closer. The speech of Louis
Napoleon, wherein he said that the question of the
freedom of the seas had just received a pacific solution,
imports to my mind a purpose of persevering in his
plan of getting labor for his colonies by shipping
African negroes as hired freemen, and of his adhesion
to the American determination of allowing no inter-
ference with the flag. Unless he meant this, he vented
a commonplace, which he is not apt to do. Mr. Ralston,
Consul-General of Liberia, who, with a Mr. Pugh, vis-
ited me to-day, told me that the Emperor had manifested
great indignation at the manner in which the Liberians
had meddled with the Regina Coeli, and had retracted
the promise of a man-of-war as a present. In endeav-
ouring to explain to me the imputation upon the func-
tionaries of the black republic, of having received fees for
permitting the alleged labourers to go on board the Re-
gina Coeli, Mr. Ralston was rather hesitating and obscure,
making it out, as well as I could seize his idea, to be in
conformity with pre-existing regulations, which, in order
to protect the negroes from fraudulent deportation, re-
quired each of them to be supplied with a passport from
Monrovia. So that, in fact, under the appearance of
guarding the negroes, the Government exacted a fee of
fifty cents on each passport, and then the deportation
was legalized ! It might be that the intention was good,
and that an opportunity of overlooking any shipment
was thus reserved to the public authorities; but, in
practice, it could not fail to become a facility to slave-
trading, as the case of the Regina Coeli showed.

288 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIA DALLAS.

The Queen left in her yacht, Gravesend, to-day, on
her way to Berlin to see her daughter, the Princess
Frederick William.

1858. August 15. — ^The fete-day of Louis Napoleon
was celebrated to-day by a dinner at the embassy. We
were twenty-eight at table. The English guests were
Lord Derby, Lord Chelmsford, Lord Wellington, Lord
De la Warr, and Mr. Fitzgerald. The Diplomatic Corps
was thin : the Turk, the Belgian, the Dutchman, the
Bavarian, the Swede, and temporary charges from
Greece, Spain, Portugal. The host played the rough
soldier pretty broadly. We had all assembled and
waited for fifteen minutes before he made his appear-
ance, bringing with him a piece of paper which he held
out, exclaiming, "Pardon, pardon, j'ecrivais mon toast!"
At the close of the dinner he stood up, nodded to Lord
Derby, his vis-a-vis, and began an address introductory
of his toast to the Queen, but suddenly stopped, exclaim-
ing, " Bah ! je lis mieux que je ne parle !" and, seizing
his manuscript, read it through. The reply of the
Premier in honour of the Emperor was in French, and
exceedingly neat; professing, however, rather too much
unction of devotion to the alliance. The Marshal called
across the table to tell me an anecdote as to one of our
Ministers in Paris during the Directory. He was desired
to give a toast, and did so by proposing " a la sante du
Beau Sexe des deux hemispheres !" whereupon a French
general proposed a transposition, thus, " a la sante des
deux hemispheres du beau sexe !" This is the Marshal's
monomania. Lord Wellington told me that recently, at
an evening party, while standing behind a lady whose
shoulders were unusually disclosed and beautiful, Pelis-
sier put his hand on one of them ; the lady turned in ex-

AT THE COURT OJH ST JAMES. 289

treme indignation : whereupon he cried, " Pardon, pardon,

je croyais que vous etiez la comtesse de W 1" There

was after dinner company, and I had a long conversa-
tion with Major Fitzmaurice about his newly-invented
light.

1858. August 17. — I received this morning from Va-
lentia the telegraphic message that her Majesty's letter
to the President had been transmitted to Newfoundland
and repeated back correctly. It consisted of ninety-nine
words, and was repeated back in sixty-seven minutes !
Wonderful and sublime ! A word launched in America
shoots through the depths of the Atlantic, and meets
the eye, more than two thousand miles off, in a minute
and a half! Went at the invitation of Major Fitzmaurice
to witness the trial of his newly-invented life-light. We
assembled at the Barracks in Hyde Park, and were most
courteously welcomed and entertained by Colonel Parker
in his handsome quarters. The power of the light is in
comparison with the Drummond light as ten to seven.
When in its full glare, it emits an effulgence equal to
fourteen hundred gaslights. The machine is portable
readily, and the stem whence the light comes is hardly
the size of one's little finger. Yet, without the aid of
reflectors, carried as one would carry a wax-candle, it
affords an intensity of light too much for the eye.
Major Fitzmaurice says that one of its chief recommen-
dations is its cheapness, another its fixedness, another its
long continuance, and another its indestructibility by
water. It was magnificently tested at Cherbourg, throw-
ing its briUiancy from a mile off upon the Emperor and
Empress on board the Bretagne, and illuminating their
track as they went ashore. Nothing would seem so
admirable for lighting up from the shore a wreck, for

290 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

penetrating the fogs on our Newfoundland banks, for
beacons, and for police purposes.

1858. August 18. — Visited at the French Gallery in
Pall Mall the two celebrated paintings of Millais and
Hunt, "The Royal Fugitive concealed in the hollow
oak" and ** The Light of the World." They are very
striking; and the latter is, no doubt, what Mr. Ruskin's
criticism terms it, the finest specimen of Pre-Raphaelite
ever executed. Yet, I don't take to so much elaboration
of design, detail, and colour. Christ is represented as
carrying a lantern by the left hand, and knocking with
his right at a hard and tightly-closed door. The lamp
sheds a brilliant and peculiar light, the light of con-
science, with which the Saviour wishes to illuminate the
inaccessible man within. He is clothed in white, with a
coronet sharply angular, and a cloak, both the coronet
and cloak profusely and most minutely jewelled and
ornamented. His countenance is at once penetrating,
placid, and attractive.

1858. August 19. — Received from Mr. Lampson and
Mr. Saward what they represented to be the President's
telegraphic reply to the Queen's message. It was sealed,
and externally addressed to her Majesty. Fortunately,
I made some inquiries as to the exact contents; and
discovered that, in translating the electric expressions,
they had made the reply assume the character of a
message from " the city of Washington to Queen Vic-
toria," although it was signed "James Buchanan." I
insisted upon the seal being broken and the necessary
correction made; Mr. Saward confessing that the
blunder had struck him as singular, but that he had
concluded that it was a peculiarity of Presidential inter-
communication. Could anything be more ridiculous

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 29I

and absurd than this? I delivered the reply to Lord
Derby, and he is to transmit it by courier to Potsdam,
and in the mean time by telegraph to obtain the Queen's
consent to the publication of the correspondence.

1858. August 20. — Mr. Fitzgerald, by ?i private note,
informs me that the Queen wishes her message to the
President published ; by this I suppose it is meant that
the Foreign Office will make the publication. Be it so,
quacumque via data,

1858. August 21. — The steamship Europa has had a
collision with the Arabia, which left here on the 7th
inst, off Cape Race ; and the morning papers all contain
the announcement of the facts, together with the assur-
ance of " no loss of life or limb." These are beautiful
first fruits of the Atlantic telegraphic cable, forestalling
all anxieties and fears !

1858. August 23. — ^The following telegraphic messages
appear in the papers of this morning. They were inter-
changed on the 1 8th and 19th instants.

" From Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain to His
Excellency the President of the United States,

" The Queen desires to congratulate the President
upon the successful completion of this great international
work, in which the Queen has taken the greatest interest.
The Queen is convinced that the President will join with
her in fervently hoping that the electric cable which
now already connects Great Britain with the United
States will prove an additional link between the two
nations, whose friendship is founded upon their common
interest and reciprocal esteem. The Queen has much
pleasure in thus directly communicating with the Presi-
dent, and in renewing to him her best wishes for the
prosperity of the United States."

292 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

The following is the President's reply to the fore-
going :

" TJie President of the United States to Her Majesty
Victoria, Queen of Great Britain,

Washington City.

" The President cordially reciprocates the congratula-
tions of Her Majesty the Queen on the success of the
great international enterprise accomplished by the skill,
science, and indomitable energy of the two countries.
It is a triumph more glorious, because far more useful
to mankind, than was ever won by a conqueror on the
field of battle. May the Atlantic telegraph, under the
blessing of Heaven, prove to be a bond of perpetual
peace and friendship between the kindred nations, and
an instrument destined by Divine Providence to diffuse
religion, civilization, liberty, and law throughout the
world. In this view will not all the nations of Christen-
dom spontaneously unite in the declaration that it shall
be forever neutral, and that its communications shall be
held sacred in passing to the place of their destination,
even in the midst of hostilities ?"

1858. August 24. — Had a long and interesting visit
from Lord Brougham. He was born in 1778, and is,
therefore, eighty years of age; and yet he conversed
with the ardour and energ>' of a man of forty. He
made a peer in 1830. I told him that I had met him at
the table of Alexander Baring (since Lord Ashburton)
forty-four years ago. He remembered the dinner and
Mr. Gallatin. He said I reminded him of what occurred
between Metternich and himself two or three years since ;
they were introduced, and he (B.) expressed his delight
at meeting one whom he long desired the honour of

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 293

knowing. " Why," said M., " I have known you these
forty years." "How's that? how's that?" asked B.
" Why, you came to see the Congress of Vienna, and do
you remember a young man, with slim legs and light-
blue stockings, who was amazingly busy?" " Perfectly,"
said B. "Well," replied M., "that was me!" Much
conversation about the slave-trade. He pronounced the
claim to visit or search utterly inconsistent with funda-
mental and universal principles of international law. But
he hoped some mode of verifying the flag would be found
out and agreed to. " Why not put an end to the trade
by passing Cuba over to the United States ?" " Well,"
he said, " it might come to that." " As to domestic
servitude, your Lordship is aware that its cessation in
the United States must be the slow effect of time."
"Certainly, certainly; your wisest men of 1787 put it
under the safeguard of your Constitution; and you can't
get rid of it without consequences more dreadful than
the thing itself." Lord Brougham expressed serious
apprehensions as to the state of things in France ; and
regarded this continued sending of squadrons of suspects
to Cayenne as fatal to the Imperial dynasty. He said he
had asked Malakoff and Fould about it, but they could
only say that it was not the act of Napoleon himself,
but of those who conceived that to be a way of ingra-
tiating themselves.

1858. September 20. — These memoranda have been
interrupted for nearly a month. During the summer
and the recess of Parliament, public affairs seem to be-
come flat, and a desire to escape the city disperses one's
associates to watering-places and travel.

We went to Tunbridge Wells on the 31st of August,

and returned on the loth of September. Our stay was

294 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

at the Mount Ephraim Hotel, on an elevated plane
which overlooked the entire town and all the public
promenades. The weather was unfavourable for a week,
constant rains and much unseasonable cold. We visited
the beautiful residence of Alderman Solomons, called
Broom Hill, and drove out daily in search of the lovely
and picturesque in scenery, finding no end to it.

From the day of my return to Tuesday the 14th inst,
I was exercised in preparing a reply to a most intem-
perate note from Lord respecting the case of the

Caroline captured by the Alecto. I have quietly shown
up his Lordship's folly, without for an instant jeopard-
ing the interests in my hands.

1858. September 30. — Went to Mr. T. Baring's country
residence in Hants, Norman Court, on the 21st inst,
and stayed till Saturday the 25th. When the train
stopped at Bishopstoke, I met Lord Palmerston on the
platform; and, after inquiring where I was going, he
insisted upon our visiting him at Broadlands. Lady
Palmerston followed this up by writing an exceedingly
kind invitation to us at Norman Court. The result is
that, though we had to return to London first, we go to
Broadlands this afternoon.

1858. October 4. — Returned from Broadlands. Lord
Shaftesbury, the Dean of Winchester, Mr. Campion, the
Rev. Mr. Harris (Lord Malmesbury's brother), Mr.
Fanizzi, etc. I beat Lord Palmerston at billiards and at
partridge-shooting. The comet, brilliant beyond meas-
ure, in front of the main colonnade every evening at
about eight o'clock.

1858. October 16. — Mr. Robert Dale Owen, our late
Minister at Naples, called on me two days ago. He is
extravagantly pleased with the life he led and the influ-

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 29$

ence he exercised at Court. He has become a confirmed
and methodical spiritualist, having prepared a volume
for publication on the subject, and having carefully
noted in folio blank-books his " Personal Observations"
and experiences. He is a man of some talent, but wants
ballast. I told him of the result of my conversation with
Bulwer Lytton that morning. Sir Edward thought that,
being now in the Ministry, it would be indiscreet in him
to carry out the project, settled a year ago, of having an
interview with Mr. Owen at Knebworth, on spiritualism.
He said, "Suppose he waits till we are out? Specula-
tion must now give way to practical matters." I agreed
in the judiciousness of the decision; and so did Mr.
Owen, though perhaps a little personally mortified.

Sir Edward and I had a plate of politics. He is
rather desponding at the Ministerial prospect; thinks
the prejudices against the ballot are too strong to be
overcome ; that the agricultural voters cannot consent to
be swamped by the towns, and that, on the whole, their
reform bill must lead to dangers. He asked me if I had
ever seen anything so remarkable " as the melting away
of Palmerston ?" " Not so," said I ; " he was suddenly
prostrated by a bolt which was unexpected ; to be sure,
his great popularity had waned from a variety of causes ;
but he was still strong, and, if the Cabinet did not take
care to attack the party below the gangway, he would
one of these days upset them just as they had upset
him. Yield the ballot and enlarge the constituency;
if you don't, your power must cease."

I spoke to Sir Edward, as Colonial Minister, about the
wish of our Consul at Malta, William Winthrop, that
the etiquette of that island, founded upon the Court
rule here, which excludes from invitations to the Gov-

296 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

ernor's those ladies who have been divorced, should, if
possible, be surmounted in favour of Mrs. Winthrop,
whose first husband was long deceased, who had married
the Consul ten years ago, and had so become almost
thoroughly American. It was, of course, not a public
matter; but he, Sir Edward, might effect Mr. Winthrop's
natural wish by expressing a casual sentiment on the
subject. He promised to think of it, but observed " Our
relations with our Colonies are improving, and we are
cautious not to interfere with their local arrangements
and feelings."

I see it announced in a morning paper of to-day that
" The Minister of the United States had an interview
at the Colonial office yesterday with Sir E. B. Lytton,"
— an announcement which misleads the imagination.

Mr. Owen, since leaving Naples, has been travelling
on the Continent, and was kind enough to say that my
residence in England had been marked by two incidents
which produced a powerful impression in favour of
America, — to wit, my remaining here when Crampton
was dismissed from Washington, and the suddenly ob-
tained renunciation of the right of visit and search.

The Atlantic cable has been incapable ever since the
2d of September, and I see no hope for it. The dis-
missal of Whiteside by the company, and the contro-
versies among the electricians (still fiercely raging), are
mistakes hardly surmountable.

The Duke of Malakoff reached his Embassy at Albert
Gate House last evening, bringing with him the Countess
Paniega, whom he married in the presence of the Im-
perial Court on Tuesday, the 21st instant.

1858. October 1 8. — Received very cheering letters from
home. I had sent a copy of my reply to Lord Malmesbury's

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 297

impudent note about " Her Majesty's captains who visit
suspected vessels." I have felt anxious lest it should
be thought, first, too bitter;- second, too tame. It ap-
pears to have given satisfaction. Markoe tells me that
General Cass was " delighted with its tone of rebuke ;
thinks it admirable and American, and exclaimed, ' I am
the last man on earth that would fail to sustain him.' "
Markoe adds, "Your weapon is as polished as it is
sharp." I hate and condemn these diplomatic em-
broglios which endanger public relations and business;
but not to answer would have been offensively con-
temptuous, and no answer compatible with dignity and
truth, however courteously worded, could avoid an ap-
pearance of severity. Malmesbury has had it for more
than a month, and I suppose means to let the matter
rest where it is. Possibly he is chewing the cud and in-
tends another fling. Well, now that I have heard from
home, I am indifferent what he does.

At the Zoological Gardens yesterday we met Pelissier
and his bride. She is very handsome, and he seems
overwhelmed with his good luck.

The difficulty between France and Portugal about the
" Charles et Georges," it is thought, will be adjusted. Na-
poleon will carry out his Free-Black Emigration scheme,
leaving England to bully as loudly as she likes. It is
rather sad to see her, in defiance of obvious right and
justice, cower at the firmness of Walewski, and surren-
der to his tender mercies her oldest but feeblest ally.
Walewski peremptorily, it is said, refused to have Eng-
land as a mediator !

1858. October 21. — Parliament went through the form
of prorogation yesterday to the 19th of November,
when a second prorogation will take place^ because, in

298 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

this one, the words " for the despatch of business" were
omitted. The Queen and her cavalcade reached Wind-
sor Castle last night from Balmoral.

The Prussian Chambers were opened by the newly
constituted Regent yesterday. Spiteful criticisms upon
Mr. Reed's Chinese diplomacy in the Times, He is
treated with Bennett's favourite epithet towards Presi-
dent Pierce, and contemptuously termed *' poor Reed."
To me it is quite obvious that this, though certainly not
direct from Lord Elgin, is the echo of his angry senti-
ments. Reed seems to me to have adroitly accomplished
all that his instructions authorized or permitted. He
was, perhaps, not sufficiently careful to avoid provoking
jealousy and ill will.

1S58. October 24. — A note from Lord Malmesbury, say-
ing that he would "be glad to have the pleasure" of
seeing me at four to-morrow. This denotes a wish to
bury the hatchet, and it is neither my policy nor my
principle to repel an advance.

A Jewish child, eight years of age, has been secretly
baptized by his Christian nurse, and is now claimed and
kidnapped from his parents by the Roman Catholic
priests at Bologna. The Pope refuses to order his res-
toration. The incident is producing immense excite-
ment in France and elsewhere. The boy's name is
Mortara.

1858. October ^i, — Mr. Bright has been making two
remarkable speeches to his constituents at Birmingham.
They are such as a Gracchus might have made at Rome.
Mr. Bright loves his country warmly, but he hates with
equal warmth her institutions and policy. He lets the
Crown alone, but openly denounces the House of Lords,
the " adulterous " Bench of Bishops, (that is, as I under-

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 299

Stand it, a clergy professing to be wedded to the church,
and yet revelling in political prostitution,) and the un-
representing and misrepresenting Commons. He is
particularly bitter upon the established spirit of aggres-
sion in other countries, — a spirit fostered by the nobles
and unworking classes, in order to secure places, and lead-
ing to a frightful and pauperizing waste of treasure and
life. I do not remember in English history such out-
spoken democracy as this. The great intellect, recog-
nized integrity, sincere earnestness, and powerful oratory
of John Bright cannot fail to produce a deep impression
even on the present corrupt and lethargic generation
of Englishmen. He makes hosts of enemies, of course;
but on these he must have calculated. No great princi-
ples of national reform (take that of Free Trade) can be
made to triumph, unless some one of its advocates is
self-sacrificing enough to break a phalanx of its foes by
concentrating upon himself their sharpest spears.

In the settlement of the affair of the " Charles et
Georges" between France and Portugal, there is no loss
of character except by England. Superior force com-
pelled Portugal to yield ; and that force was exerted
to sustain and vindicate the avowed Free-Black Emi-
gration policy of the Emperor; but England, without a
murmur, sees a national ally and protegee beaten to the
earth for standing by a course and doctrine she incul-
cated and still professes to maintain against the world !
"Call ye this backing your friends!" The Spectator
of yesterday is so mortified by the effect of the alliance
with France, that it boldly announces that alliance at
an end !

1858. November 9. — Went last night to Lady Malmes-
bury's reception. La Marechale, Duchess of Malakoff,

300 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

bride of Pelissier, and Ambassadress of France, was the
star of the evening. A handsome, luxuriant Spanish
figure, with quiet, attractive manners.

Mr. Bright spent an hour with me. He had two
things upon his mind: i, to ascertain what I thought
was the disposition of the Ministry upon Reform, and, 2,
to broach a proposal of enlisting the pen of Mr. Henry
D. Gilpin on certain points of fact as to the cause of our
progress and contentment. I gather from what he said
that there is not much hope of a satisfactory reform bill
being offered by the present government.

1858. November 14. — The general political calm has
been disturbed by the supposed indiscretion of the
French Emperor in causing a prosecution to be insti-
tuted against Count Montalembert for his essay in the
Correspondant It is an eloquent, learned, and here and
there pungent paper; but it is an elaborate eulogy of
everything English as compared with everything French.
It will gall the self-esteem of Frenchmen beyond bear-
ing, and probably make popular, not merely the criminal
pursuit of the Count, but Napoleon's merciless smother-
ing of the press. Sir Henry Holland says that Lord
Aberdeen condemns the prosecution as extremely wrong,
and don't know what may not be the consequence. The
Examiner of yesterday terms it the " madness of despo-
tism." In Charles the Tenth's time it might have brought
up the barricades. But at this day the Gamins de Paris
won't fight to vindicate a nobleman who praises England.
The Times makes the matter worse for the Count by
exultingly devoting four or five columns daily to its
publication.

So Louis Napoleon, after trampling upon Portugal,
suddenly shifts his position and truckles to England by

AT THE COURT OF ST. /AMES. 3OI

surrendering his plan of Free Emigrants from Africa to
his West Indies islands ! His letter to Prince Jerome of
the 30th of October, just published, is an incident, primce
impressionis, on the great international chess-board, and
merits special preservation as a feat of audacious vacil-
lation.

St. Cloud, October 30.

My Dear Cousin, — I have the liveliest desire that, at the moment
when the difference with Portugal relative to the Charles et Georges has
terminated, the question of the engagement of free labourers on the African
coast should be definitively examined and finally settled on the truest
principles of humanity and justice.

I energetically claimed from Portugal the restitution of the Charles et
Georges, because I always maintain intact the independence of the na-
tional flag; and, in this case, it was only with the profound conviction of
my right that I risked, with the King of Portugal, a rupture of those
friendly relations which I am glad to maintain with him.

But as to the principle of the engagement of the negroes, my ideas are
far from being settled. If, in truth, labourers recruited on the African
coast are not allowed the exercise of their free will, and if this enrolment
is only the slave-trade in disguise, I will have it on no terms ; for it is not
I who will anywhere protect enterprises contrary to progress, to human-
ity, and to civilization.

I beg you, then, to seek out the truth with the zeal and intelligence
which you bring to bear on all affairs which you take in hand : and, as
the best method of putting an end to what is a continual cause of dispute
would be to substitute the free labour of Indian Coolies for that of ne-
groes, I beg you to come to an understanding with the Minister of For-
eign Affairs, to resume with the English Government the negotiations
which were entered upon a few months ago.

Whereon, my dear cousin, I pray God to have you in His holy keeping.

Napoleon.

1858. November 25. — Count Montalembert was tried
yesterday before a tribunal of the Correctional Police
and, of course, convicted. He was accused of libelling
France, the Emperor, Universal Suffrage, etc. The
"paroles foudroyantes" of Berryer defended him. He

302 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

seems to have borne himself calmly and firmly. He is
sentenced to an imprisonment of six months and a fine
of three thousand francs. The tone of the judges shows
a consciousness that the prosecution is rather popular
than otherwise, as its victim is ** un ami enrage des An-
glais." The Times articles are admirable, but Englishmen
are incapable of realizing how much they are hated
beyond the channel.

Had a long and interesting interview with Lord
Malmesbury at the Foreign Office.

1858. December 6. — Nothing worth noting for some
days back, unless it be the penal game of chess playing
by the Emperor and Montalembert. His Majesty issued
a pardon ; making it, however, bear the sting of an epi-
gram by dating it on the 2d of December, the anniversary
of the coup d'etat, when he seized the government with
the approval and aid of Montalembert. The Count,
however, replies by saying that there was nothing to par-
don, as he had filed his appeal within the time limited, re-
jects the grace, and insists upon his right to prove that no
criminal ofTence was set forth in the written accusation,
or indictment, against him. The Court of Appeal would,
I think, be bound to dismiss the matter, as leaving
nothing for correction ; but to that end the motion of the
procureur imperial, or Attorney-General, exhibiting the
record or decree of pardon, might be necessary to inform
the Court; and it is said that, in order to make the
Count's course ridiculous, the Procureur will abstain from
doing anything, leaving him to combat with a shadow.
If the Count pleads the case himself with the boldness
and ability he has already manifested, he may yet turn
the laugh upon Napoleon, or he may force them to make
him the martyr he evidently desires to be.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 303

1858. December 17. — The Times of this morning
contains a letter written by the President to the Com-
mittee managing the celebration of the Centennial anni-
versary of the occupancy of Forts Duquesne and Pitt.
To Americans in Europe, official or otherwise, this is a
very painful letter, coming from the chief magistrate of
their country. The spirit is one of despondency as to the
permanency of the Union and the destiny of the Repub-
lic. As there are secrets between man and wife which
cannot be conversed about without stimulating the
gossip and slander of their neighbors, so there are defec-
tive points in the manners and practices of a portion of
every people which, however anxious to correct them,
should never undergo exposition in the face of nations
eager to condemn all indiscriminately. It may be true
that our noisy politicians have a vicious habit of threat-
ening disunion, and that in the populous cities money is
partially used to corrupt voters, but it certainly is not
true that the affection of the great body of citizens to the
Union is impaired ; on the contrary, it is warmer and
firmer now than it ever was, and it certainly is not true
that the alleged employment of money has extended
beyond a very contracted and really insignificant range.
The President has been wounded by the recent victories
of his adversaries, and hsis volunteered a sharp arrow
to the quiver of the enemies of popular institutions in
Europe. See what the first man of the nation tells and
foresees of the model Republic ! It would be nothing as
the gloomy speculation of a private croaker, but from
the President it is dreadful. Already our constant calum-
niators exclaim, " There ! there is the proof of all we
have said !"

It is averred with positiveness that the commission to

304 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

whom the letter of the French Emperor was referred,
with a view to determine the justice or wrong of the
Free-Black Emigration system, have reported emphati-
cally in its favour.

1858. December 19. — The message arrived this even-
ing. It is very long, but remarkably lucid, and can be
read at full gallop. Its characteristics as to policy are
firmness as to foreign nations and enterprise in domestic
movement. How useless, impolitic, and out of taste are
the opening remarks concerning Kansas ! The rest of
the paper, except, perhaps, the recommendation of specific
instead of ad valorem duties, of which his local interests
should have made him jealous, is in the highest degree
creditable and satisfactory. His mention of the fact that
this country, after insisting upon it for more than fifty
years, has now renounced the right of search and visit,
connected with the necessary publication of my corre-
spondence showing that this renunciation was achieved
by me alone, without instructions to that purpose, is
abundantly sufficient for any personal love of reputation
I can have. Diplomatic service can give me no addi-
tional feather.

1858. December 22. — The argument on Count Mon-
talembert's appeal was heard and decided yesterday.
It was opened by Dufaure, who was followed for the
prosecution by the Procureur-General ; then came
Berryer; and the Procureur closed the case. This does
not give the affirmative to the appellant, and is not the
logical order of discussion. The judgment of the Police
Correctional Court was affirmed; but the Count was
pronounced not guilty of attacking the principle of
universal suffi-age or the constitutional rights of the
Emperor, and his sentence as to imprisonment was

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 305

mitigated from six to three months, the fine of three
thousand francs remaining undisturbed. It would seem
that the game of chess has gone against him.

1858. December 30. — Louis Napoleon has resolved on
checkmating the Count. The -^/rZ/^i^r contains a full
pardon both of him and the publisher Duriol.

Accounts are received of a peaceful but effectual
revolution in Servia on the 22d inst The Schupkina
has deposed Prince Alexander Kara George, and rein-
stated the banished Milosch Obrenowitch. This is a
local sovereignty proceeding with which Turkey, Aus-
tria, and France will hardly be satisfied. It is thought
to be the product of Russian intrigue and gold.

1859. January 3. — ^The first flash of lightning precur-
sive of the storm has startled everybody. The French
Emperor, at his levee held on the ist inst, addressed
the following to Hubner, the Austrian Minister, with
marked excitement and emphasis : " Je regrette que nos
relations avec votre gouvernement ne soient aussi bonnes
que par le passe ; mais je vous prie de dire a TEmpereur
que mes sentiments pour lui ne sont pas changes." Mar-
shal Vaillant, who was by, followed it up by adding to
the Minister, " After that, I suppose I am not at liberty
to shake hands with you." This sudden revelation of
the purpose as to Italy is justly likened to the conduct
of Napoleon I. towards the British Minister just before
the breach of the treaty of Amiens."

1859. January 28. — A telegram received at Windsor
Castle six minutes after the event announced yesterday
that the Princess Frederick William was safely delivered
of a son at three that day. We attended the wedding a
year and two days ago.

1859. January 31. — The war slowly, but, I think,

306 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

steadily, approaches. Yesterday Prince Napoleon mar-
ried Clothilde, Victor Emanuel's daughter, and thus the
alliance of France and Sardinia becomes riveted. The
Prince brings his bride to Paris at once. They left Turin
for Genoa in the afternoon of the wedding-day.

Lord Lyons called and promised to dine with me this
day week.

1859. February 3. — ^The Queen opened Parliament at
two P.M. to-day. The ceremony was, of course, in all
its features a repetition of what I have described under
date of 3d of December, 1857. Her Majesty was graver,
though dressed perhaps more brilliantly. I think the
immense Koh-i-noor was on her bosom, her crown was
a mass of huge diamonds^ and her crimson velvet pelisse,
trimmed with ermine, had no end to its train ; she re-
quired for easy movement the aid of the Duchess of
Manchester and Beaufort and of two pages. Lord
Derby appeared considerably exercised in holding per-
pendicularly the Great Sword of State. The speech was
somewhat beyond the customary length. It insists upon
maintaining inviolate the faith of treaties ; among which,
of course, are those of the Holy Alliance of 181 5, which
parcelled to Austria her possessions in Italy ; it avows
orders for hostilities against Mexico; and it inculcates
Parliamentary reform, and a reconstruction of the navy.
Not a word about diminutive America !

My colleagues of the diplomatic body welcomed me
when I went among them with more than their usual
manifestation of warmth. They kept shaking hands for
a minute or two. I had myself introduced to Isturitz,
and to Jose Santiago Rodrigues, the Venezuelan.
Bishop Mcllvaine and daughter were my special guests,
comfortably seated in the north gallery.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 307

In the evening escorted Miss Burgwin and Julia to
the House of Lords. Address to the Queen discussing.
Lord Granville applauded the policy of the speech,
though he taunted Lord Malmesbury with not ven-
turing to touch upon the United States. Lord Derby
made a clear, bold, and forcible statement of Ministerial
system, especially anti-Napoleonic and pro-Austrian in
connection with a possible war. Parliamentary unani-
mity against him may possibly arrest the enterprise of
the French Emperor.

1859. February 4. — The day devoted to home de-
spatches. The Tunes makes this morning an annoying
blunder about my cordially shaking hands at the open-
ing of Parliament with the Minister of Hayti, although
a man of colour. The poor fellow was not present at
all, and I have never interchanged a recognition or word
with him. He is, as I have often noticed, a very well-
behaved mulatto, about whom I would never dream of
doing or saying an unkind thing.

1859. February 5. — ^A tremendous pamphlet just out
in Paris ! It is obviously the offspring of Imperial in-
spiration. Nothing could be more like the " Idees Na-
poleoniennes." Its title is " Napoleon III et Tltalie."
It inculcates with remarkable power and distinctness the
necessity of preserving the peace of Europe by insisting
diplomatically, and, if need be militarily, upon the with-
drawal of Austria from Lombardy, and the construction
of an Italian Confederation of Nationalities. It opens
by a distinct declaration of aversion to the treaties of
1815; no wonder, for they are the monuments of the
degradation of France and of the Bonaparte dynasty by
the Holy Alliance. This splendid manifesto is obviously
meant as a semi-official prelude to a great drama.

308 DTAR Y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Dined with Captain Schenley, who married the rich
heiress, granddaughter of old " O'Hara/' of Pittsburg.
The Prestons, father, mother, and daughter, and attache
Haviland, were at table. So was Admiral Courtenay.

At eleven o'clock went to the Marquis of Salisbury's,
the first Ministerial reception of the season. Lord John
Russell quite marked in his graciousness; long talk with
mine host, who seemed terrified at my conviction that
war was inevitable. " But how then are the disasters of
a new despotism and usurpation from France to be
avoided ?" " By England," said I ; " let her connive at
the constitutional regeneration of Italy, saying to Louis
Napoleon, 'thus far, and no farther,' and if he attempt an
inch beyond the mark, let her pounce upon his back."

1859. February^. — Mr., Mrs.,and Miss Preston, Captain
Schenley, Mr. Ralston, and the Spanish Minister dined
with us. Mr. Preston insisted upon my sending him a
memorandum as to my thoughts of what is best to be
done by him in reference to Cuba.

Isturitz is a singularly unaffected and attractive Span-
iard. He can scarcely be less than seventy, is short,
gray-haired, and round-shouldered. He understands
English, but declines speaking it He spoke Spanish to
Preston. Told him he would be received cordially at
Madrid, and that there was but one topic which he hoped
he would avoid. Mr. Isturitz was at this Court, 1847,
representing his country.

1859. February 8. — The speech of Napoleon III. to
the Legislative Chambers, made yesterday, reached Lon-
don in the afternoon. It is soothing, but not thor-
oughly pacific, and is confined to the agitation produced
by the language used to Hubner on January i, and the
military movements since. To me it seems pretty clear

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 309

that the Emperor proposes to let the Sardinian monarch
begin the fight, and then fall in under the pretence of a
just cause and European necessity.

Lord Lyons dined with us last evening, the company re-
maining in full glee of conversation until half-past eleven.
We were five of the family and nine others, to wit,
Lyons, Moreria, Platen, Von Dorkum, Seymour Fitzger-
ald, Baring, Hankey, Colonel Scarlett, and Moran.

1859. February g. — First reception at Lord Derby's.
Rooms quite crowded. Conversed with the Lord Chan-
cellor Chelmsford about his bill to improve the law of
bankruptcy, and with Lord Colchester about the newly
issued map redistributing geographically the nations of
Europe. This map is reported to be a study of the
French Emperor's : — it removes the Turkish Sultan back
to Asia, and, giving Hanover to Prussia, places the King
of Hanover upon a domain on the Bosphorus. There
are many odd features in the plan.

1859. February 10. — Admiral Von Dorkum called.
He says that Sir Hamilton Seymour is personally inti-
mate with Louis Napoleon, who always calls him, affec-
tionately, 'Cousin': that this originated during the
outbreak of 1848, when Louis Napoleon fought in the
Republican army against the Austrians, and, after a
defeat, found it impossible to escape without an English
passport, with which, all other contrivances failing, he
was supplied by Sir Hamilton. His warm gratitude
never fails to show itself when they meet

Mr. Charles Augustus Murray, the actual British
Minister in Persia, on leave of absence, came to see me
by appointment to-day. He was formerly attached to
the English Mission in Washington, went on a tour of

many months into the far West, and thence deduced his

27*

3IO DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

" Prairie Bird." His health has greatly suffered at
Teheran, from the disease— dysentery— prevalent there.
He describes the country as essentially barbarous, — no
female society, scanty populations, the streets of the
capital unpaved and scarcely passable in carriages or on
horseback. He wants to be appointed elsewhere, and
would resign, if by so doing he did not lose the pension
for twenty years of service, which lack only two years
now. He came to execute before me, under the advice
of New York, a release or acknowledgment of satisfac-
tion of a mortgage upon land in that State.

Went in the evening to Count Bernstorff 's to meet H.
R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and the Princess Mary.
The party was to celebrate the birth of the son of Prin-
cess Frederick William at Berlin. The Duke of Cam-
bridge quite surprised me by his manifestations of
partiality, talking with animation about the prospect of
war, and earnestly asking, with his hand upon my shoul-
der, my opinion as to the probable future course of the
French Emperor. Lord Derby and Lord Malmesbury
stood at a distance, the latter coming up, as soon as the
Duke allowed him, and engaging me in conversation.
Lord Palmerston came in, and intimated to me that the
25th instant would be an interesting time for a visit to
the House of Commons, — ^the Navy Estimates night.

1859. P^bruary 14. — ^The Duke of Cambridge called
in person, and left his card. This is his second visit to
me : he probably designed to secure me as a guest at
the dinner of the Royal Asylum of St. Ann's on the
22d inst. I had already accepted the invitation.

Mr. T. H. Worrall did me the honour of a call, and I
fully explained to him the project of General Duff Green,
about getting the British creditors of Mexico to sub-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 3II

scribe their bonds to his Railroad Company from the
Sabine to the Rio del Norte, and thence through Mexico
to the Gulf of California. The General is a sanguine
schemist, rarely .executing anything. Mr. Worrall has
been in Mexico for many years, and is of opinion that
we ought to annex it. I was exceedingly struck by the
intelligence and persuasiveness of his mild manner.

Phil reports an interesting debate to have taken place
this afternoon in the House of Lords on the Right of
Search question, in which my name figured conspicuously.
We shall have it in the Times at breakfast to-morrow.

1859. February 16. — Went last night to Lord Col-
chester's. Chatted agreeably with the Spanish Minister,
the Bavarian, and the Danish; also with Lord Hard-
wicke, Mr. Warren, and Countess Platen. Baron Cetto
congratulated me on the expressed opinion of Lord
Clarendon of my "excellence as a painter of Cabinet
pictures."

1859. February 23. — Mr. Ward, our Minister to
China, arrived here yesterday with his family. Sent him
letters and tickets.

Attended the 150th anniversary celebration of the
Royal Asylum of the Society of St. Ann ; being obliged
by this prior engagement to send an apology and toast
to the American Association dining in honour of Wash-
ington's birthday. Sir John Burgoyne told me he
had never been in America but once, and that was at
the battle of New Orleans. This charity appears to me
the best I have yet seen in England. The sum collected
at the table was little short of fifteen thousand dollars.
I gave a check for five pounds.

Levee to-day at St. James's: first of the season,
crowded, and more than usually interesting.

312 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Dined with Mr. Wm. Brown, to meet the Mayor and
deputation from Liverpool. I sat near Lord Brougham,
and had much agreeable conversation with this most
remarkable man. He told a number of striking anec-
dotes about his old client Queen Caroline; of her
disposition to pay her counsel in preference to paying
her debts, etc. ; described Metternich, inveighed fiercely
against Napoleon L as the worst man that ever lived,
and referred to a recent publication of which he had
received a copy, showing his private morals to have been
abominable, and then he pronounced Napoleon III. to
be an altered man since the attempt of Orsini, intimating
flightiness and recklessness.

Went to Lord Derby's at eleven o'clock.

1859. February 25. — It seems to be well ascertained
that Lord Cowley was called over from Paris, and has
been prepared for a special mission to Vienna, with a
view, if possible, to induce Austria to agree to quit the
Papal States simultaneously with France. Much reliance
is placed upon the efficacy of his diplomatic powers. It
is, however, very clear that the departure of the French
and Austrian troops will be the opening of a revolution-
ary movement against which the Pope has no means of
resistance ; that once begun, the movement will extend
into Lombardy and Venice ; that Piedmont will try to
lead it, and that thus war will be universal in Italy and
less regularly conducted than if formally waged by
Napoleon III.

Went at four o'clock to the House of Commons to
hear Lord Palmerston question the Ministry, according
to his notice, as to the probabilities of continuing peace
and on their policy. His speech was a lucid and able
and politic review of the state of affairs on the Continent,

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 313

the preparations making for battle, and the difficulties of
perceiving a real cause of quarrel. He seemed to side
with France in insisting that the foreign forces should
quit the Papal States ; and he certainly implied that, if
Austria declined doing so, she would put herself in the
wrong, and should be left to take the consequences.
Disraeli spoke cleverly in reply, and made a plausible
announcement that the government had reason to believe
that the two Imperial powers would agree upon with-
drawing their armies. I thought there was in his lan-
guage an artful evasiveness, which imported doubt.
Lord John Russell also spoke.

1859. February 26. — Dined with Lord Lyndhurst.
His son-in-law, Hamilton Becket, Sir H. Holland, and
Mr. and Mrs. Ward were there. Lady Lyndhurst, two
of his Lordship's daughters, an old lady. Colonel Morris,
and another gentleman filled the round table. Morris,
an exceedingly youthful and prepossessing person, gath-
ered many laurels and orders in the Crimea. The Peer,
though eighty-seven, was full of conversation and ani-
mated. He told me that when Lord Derby, in the House
of Lords, was informed of what Disraeli had said in the
Commons last evening about the government having re-
ceived communications which gave them reason to infer a
pacific arrangement, he (Derby) remarked, " He has gone
too far." He adverted to having travelled in the United
States about sixty-five years ago with Dr. Bollman and
Volney.

At eleven went first to the Marquis of Salisbury, and
second to Lord Palmerston, getting home by twelve.

1859. February 27. — Dined with Mr. T. Baring, meet-
ing Mr. Ward, Mr. Bates, Mr. Ramsden, and Mr. Foster.
Phil went with me. It is impossible to carry the finish

314 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

and excellence of an entertainment of this sort farther
than does Mr. Baring. It is perfect of its kind in all its
details and accessories. Mr. B. informed me that Mr.
Walpole, Home-Secretary, and Mr. Henley, Board of
Trade, had resigned their offices upon a difference as to
the Reform bill to be introduced to-morrow. They think
it too liberal.

1859. February 28. — At the House of Commons from
four to half-past eleven. Mr. Disraeli introduced the
Reform bill with a speech of three hours. I thought
the explanation very forced, artificial, and illusory ; and
if the measure is not a retrograde movement instead
of an advance, I shall be surprised. To be sure, it
concedes the ten-pound franchise to counties, but it dis-
franchises boroughs, and does nothing for the working
classes. Lord John Russell, Mr. Roebuck. Mr. Bright,
and Mr. James (his maiden) denounced it in strong terms.
It is a worse failure than the abortive India bill, and
Lord Derby can hardly weather the storm it must raise.
Lord Palmerston, at the head of his friends, looked
quietly on, perhaps perceiving that the same ultra-Lib-
erals who drove him from office were about to perform
a like part with his successor. He has only to vote neg-
atively in preventing a second reading, which any man
of intelligence finds warrant to do in several provisions
of the bill, and the government must either retire or
resort to a dissolution of Parliament.

1859. March 2. — Levee at St. James's Palace. I pre-
sented in the diplomatic circle Bishop Delancey and his
son.

Dined with Mr. Vernon Smith, meeting Sir H. Raw-
linson. Sir Henry and Lady Holland, etc. At eleven
went to Lord Derby's.

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 315

1859. March 3. — Remarkably fine weather. Enjoyed
a walk up Rotten Row amazingly. Went in the evening
to Lord Palmerston's. Found the Duchess of Malakoff
both handsomer and more agreeable than I had supposed.
The rooms were unusually brilliant. Mr. Ponsonby and
his wife, pleasant persons. The former tells me that Lord
Lyons is held in high estimation at the Foreign Office,
and that he and Lord Stratford de Redcliffe are consid-
ered the ablest of their diplomatic penmen. Delighted
the Duchess of Inverness with an account of the national
ball at Washington given as a valedictory to her nephew,
Lord Napier, of which the description reached me this
morning.

Mr. Walpole has done himself great honour by resign-
ing. Public sentiment eulogizes the act as a remarkable
example of political integrity. Had he remained in
public service but two months longer, he would have
been entitled to a pension of £2000, or ^io,cxx), per
annum for life. He is now poor and without occupation,
as he cannot return to the Bar, from the equity practice
of which he was drawn some years ago.

Accounts represent the result of Lord Cowley's mis-
sion to Vienna as very uncertain. The Emperor Francis
has been indulging himself in tart remarks upon Napo-
leon ni. and France. The point at which Cowley aims
seems to be this : to persuade Austria to give up, as in-
consistent with the spirit and purposes of the territorial
arrangement effected by the treaties of 1 81 5, the partic-
ular treaties or agreements as to fortifications and garri-
sons she has since made with several Italian States, —
Parma, Modena, etc. These are the disrelished grounds
of her influence and intervention, and Louis Napoleon
will not submit to their continuance. To withdraw from

3l6 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Rome and the Papal provinces, though something, is not
enough. His exertions, now sanctioned by England,
can hardly be acquiesced in, for Austria has a substan-
tive right to claim to make with independent governments
what conventions she can.

1859. March 5. — At Lord Monteagle's in the evening.
A new phase of London society. Among the gentle-
men the leading personages were Sir Wm. Codrington,
the Dean of St. Paul's, and Sir Alexander Spearman.
Codrington was the last commander-in-chief of the
British army in the Crimea. He is fifty five. He is a
Liberal, but against the ballot. The Dean, Dr. Milman,
is an exceedingly interesting man, a fine scholar, and
an able writer. His history of ecclesiastical matters
has given him a high reputation. I should presume him
to be seventy-five or seventy-six. He stoops almost
double. His conversation is animated and fresh. Every-
body cleared out early, leaving the rooms empty by
eleven. Ex-Lord-Chancellor Cranworth was there.

1859. March 7. — Plon-Plon — Prince Napoleon — has
resigned his office as Minister of Algeria. He is rep-
resented as an altogether impracticable functionary,
in perpetual hot water with his colleagues, especially
Walewski and De Morny. He is eager for war, and I
suspect has more of the true Bonapartean energy and
briskness about him than any of the present generation.
But he is essentially in principle, though he can't be in
practice, a democrat, and therefore the chime is against
him here and in France.

Dined with Sir Henry Holland, meeting Lords Lans-
downe, Wodehouse, and Wensleydale, Mr. Harcourt,
and several ladies. It was stated that Lord Derby's net
income is seventy-five thousand guineas. In the even-

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 317

ing the company largely increased, and we had some
good music. Lord Monteagle assured me positively
that the new Reform bill would be overwhelmingly
killed, and that the Cabinet must go. I candidly re-
gretted, as the present government had treated the
United States fairly and well. He gave me credit for
my feeling and said it was natural. A younger son of
Lord Fortescue, who has the management of the coffee
estates of the family in Ceylon, has just returned from
that island, and gave me an interesting account of his
journey, going and coming twelve thousand miles. Mr.
Gordon, Lord Aberdeen's son, arrived from the Ionian
Isles, whither he went as secretary to Mr. Gladstone ; had
been much pleased with his winter's trip. Sir Charles
Lyell, Lord Cranworth, and many others came in.

Went at eleven o'clock from Sir Henry Holland's to
Mr. Percival's. The late Home Secretary, Walpole, was
there and considerably stunned and muddled with wine.
He tried to talk about the little reliance to be placed
upon Louis Napoleon, but could make neither head nor
tail of it. I have great advantage in never touching
liquor of any sort, but am very indulgent in my judg-
ments of those who do. Lord Stanley told me that if
I continued to abstain inflexibly, I must undoubtedly
gradually get the better of my diplomatic colleagues I
There was dancing at Mr. Percival's, but the jam made
it inconvenient, as they had closed their largest room
under the apprehension that it might fall in !

The French Emperor is generally thought to be back-
ing out of his belligerent position, and the power of
European public opinion is boasted. I don't give in to
this yet : but nous verrons.

1859. March 10. — Dined with the Queen. Before

3l8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

going to table, there were assembled by half-past eight,
in the Picture-Gallery, the Marquis and Marchioness of
Salisbury, the Duchess of Norfolk, Count and Countess
Platen, Lord and Lady Donoughmore, Lord and Lady
Ashley, Lord and Lady Palmerston, Lord Sheffield, Rt.
Hon. S. Lushington, D.C.L., etc. I was assigned to
hand in the Duchess of Norfolk. Sir James Graham
was there also. On my left sat Lady Donoughmore,
whom I found to be an agreeable, chatty, and pretty
Irishwoman, about thirty years of age. I was directly
opposite her Majesty, the Duchess of Norfolk opposite
the Prince Consort. On the Queen's right was Salis-
bury, as President of the Council. On the left of the
Prince was Lady Flora Macdonald.

We rose from table and went into the gallery again at
half-past nine. The Queen inquired whether I was con-
tented with England, hoped the President would permit
me to remain much longer, though she knew how rapidly
the American mission changed, but trusted there would
be an exception in my case. She asked as to the health
of Mr. Buchanan and his niece. Miss Lane, and ex-
pressed much gratification at my account of them. After
a little while, getting more at ease, I told her Majesty
one or two anecdotes, which elicited a hearty laugh.

Had a long and interesting conversation with Dr.
Lushington, who, on the fellowship of profession, in-
troduced himself to me. He mentioned that he had
been the colleague of Lord Lyndhurst on the trial of
the case in which he made the first speech that brought
him into notice, and opened the avenue to honours and
wealth ; until then Lyndhurst had been rendered almost
desperate by neglect. It was forty-five years ago. I
take Lushington, who is a neat, tall, white-haired, blue-

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 319

eyed man, with a perpetual smile on his face, to be
turned of eighty. Lord Palmerston wore the Garter,
Lord Ailsea, but lately made a Knight of the Thistle,
wore the broad green ribbon of the Order. While listen-
ing to the Queen's band, with written programmes of
the music in our hands, we seated ourselves in a sort
of semicircle in front of her Majesty. Nothing could
transcend the tremulous and deferential homage ex-
hibited by Countess Platen whenever the Queen spoke
to her ; she would rise from her chair (not done by others)
and remain stooping and standing and courtesying until
the Queen withdrew her notice. In other respects the
Countess seems gifted with sense and tact.

1859. March 12. — Lord Cowley is expected to be in
London to-day from Vienna. He has probably failed
in his mission, as no result is announced.

Panizzi writes me a strong and warm letter about
what I did to secure the Neapolitan victims of Bomba a
welcome in the United States. The poor fellows are all
safe in Cork ; and by their revolt have disappointed my
countrymen completely of their prepared ovation.

1859. March 13. — Returned at half-past nine o'clock
from attending the religious service in St. Paul's Church.
The crowd was very great. I suppose more than five
thousand persons were present. The reverberation of
sound prevented, to my imperfect ears at least, any dis-
tinct utterance in Psalm or sermon. The swell of the
organ and its gradual subsidence as it "in hollow mur-
murs died away" were very fine. The dome was mag-
nificent, and my neck was rather painful, in consequence
of my turning my gaze irresistibly and unconsciously
upwards ; it was lighted brilliantly by a vast circle of
gas-jets, on the ledge below the whispering gallery; the

320 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

paintings in its compartments were brought out, and
seemed in fact to be brought near, so tliat the huge ex-
panse appeared to come down flatter and broader to the
eye. The effect of this massive and extensive structure
is impaired by the numberless curtains, and gratings,
and partitions, which perhaps are necessary to render it
capable of convenient use, but which detract from its
sublime proportions and unity. As to the monuments,
they are treated, not as ornaments, but intruders, and
put out of sight wherever possible. Were it not for the
dome, one would prefer being in any common-sized rural
church in England. The sermon was rather long, and,
affecting to be addressed to the "lower classes,'* was
commonplace and occasionally rather broad.

1859. March 15. — Dined with Mr. Edward EUice,
M.P., in Arlington Street, at the house built by Horace
Walpole ; Lord Eversley, Sir Allan MacNab, Sir William
Williams, of Kars, Mr. Bruce, brother of Lord Elgin,
were at table. Mr. Ellice returned a month or two ago
from the United States. He had travelled to St. Paul's,
Minnesota, and would seem largely concerned in land
speculations there. He repeated to me a conversation
he had with the President during last summer at his
residence near Washington, in which he encouraged Mr.
Buchanan to get rid of all the annoying controversies
connected with Central America and Mexico by taking
possession of them at once.

Lord Eversley's fruit-trees in Hampshire have been in
full blossom for two weeks. To protect them from re-
turning frost he has covered them with woollen netting,
which he says will be effectual.

1859. March 16. — Our first "at home" of the season :
a happy inspiration and successful hit.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 32 1

In the evening went first to Lord Hardwicke's (Privy
Seal). Met Professor Owen on the stairway. He
spoke in strong and animated terms of the young sci-
entific explorers of the United States, particularly in the
department of natural history. He wished very much
to see Perry's account of Japan, and I engaged to send
it to him.

Went aflerwards to Lord Palmerston's. A crush. It
was quite apparent that in the expectation of the crowd
the happy event of a ministerial change was close at
hand. Lord Cranworth could not contain his exultation,
and remarked that as Walpole's routs were said to be
more crowded after he left office, so it seemed with
Lord Palmerston. " Yes," said I, coolly ; " but this as-
semblage is probably aware that Hope has just lighted
on his Lordship's doorsill !'*

1859. March 17. — In the evening at Lord Chancellor
Chelmsford's, in Belgrave Square. The assemblage very
brilliant, and not overcrowded. Conversed for some
time with Sir John Harding, who seems to think the
Ministry will weather the storm of the Reform bill. I
asked an explanation as to the pensions allowed to those
who had been in office. He said they depended, not
upon any general rule, but upon special acts of Parlia-
ment. That, mostly, service for two years in a high
post entitled to £2000 a year ; and the service need not
be continuous, but fragments at any distance of time
might be computed together. Thus, Mr. Walpole had
served under Lord Derby's former ministry nine months^
so that, when he resigned the other day, he wanted some
six weeks only to be entitled to his pension of £2000 \
hence he was so much eulogized for the disinterested-
ness and independence of his withdrawal.

28*

322 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

1859. March ig.^Reception at the Austrian Minister's
(Count Appony). N^ry select and stupid. Lord Derby,
Disraeli, Donoughmore, Salisbury, Clarendon, Granville,
there; also Malakoff, Bernstorff, Platen, Von Dorkum,
Bentinck, AzegHo, etc., etc. The Austrian and French-
man peculiarly delighted to salute each other. Cetto,
the Bavarian, speaks oracularly, and says that all the
war agitation will be completely over in less than three
weeks. This countenances the rumour that Louis Napo-
leon has backed down. I doubt. We shall be enlightened
by what may be addressed to the Imperial Guard, on
the 20th inst., in the Champ de Mars. The " Prisoner
of Ham " is perhaps not the man for the occasion, and
Italy will again be cheated.

Nothing can now prevent a pitched battle on the Re-
form question in the Commons, on Monday, unless it be
an intermediate change of the government : and that, if
I were Premier, would be brought about, to the avoid-
ance of an otherwise inevitable discomfiture upon a
great political principle, in the Legislature, and to the
avoidance of an equally fatal step, a dissolution of Par-
liament. If statesmen here do not act more upon the
plan of conciliatory compromise, do not forbear to exas-
perate the masses by injustice, arrogance, and stratagem,
they will be stormed and overwhelmed by the rising
flood of democracy. The Times has vainly attempted
for months past to ignore or depreciate the popular
progress of Mr. Bright: it is now unable to stem the
torrent, and is taking the other tack. Monday may
witness in and about the palace of St. Stephen's a scene
of dense movement which will recall the anti-Popery
mob of Lord George Gordon. To forestall this, also,
Lord Derby would show his wisdom by frankly saying

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 323

that he was satisfied his Ministry could not carry their
bill, and that he must tender their joint resignations.
Lord John Russell would be sent for, and all of Bright's
plan would be ultimately and harmlessly adopted, except
perhaps the ballot, which might be deferred as a special
object of committee examination and arrangement.

1859. March 20. — Mr. T. called this morning. He
has just returned from the United States, and is now on
his way to Paris. The description of the President's
utterly friendless position, of the extravagant style of
living in Washington, and of the licentiousness of the
press are exceedingly graphic and deplorable. We are
advancing to a state of things to remedy which will de-
mand from patriotism, untiring and incessant exertion
in all the channels of public opinion.

1859. March 21. — Inthegalleryof the House of Com-
mons from four to eight p.m. Lord John Russell opened
the discussion on his motion condemnatory of the prin-
ciple of Lord Derby's Reform bill and against its second
reading. He was replied to by Lord Stanley. Then
followed Mr. Sturt, a Conservative, who denounced the
measure as unjust and unwise, but nevertheless opposed
the motion of Lord John. Lord Bury replied to him.
I listened in vain for real argument or eloquence. There
was a total absence of enlarged, comprehensive, and
patriotic view. This, then, is the great English ques-
tion 1 There must be something underneath, something
which is scrupulously kept out of sight, or the extensive
agitation could not be fed. Is it the grim spectre of
popular revolution, or what is it? Nothing seemed to
me more false and trifling than the vast parade of words
and pretences. And this flat and feeble debate will be
extended, they say, through the whole week. As a

324 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

motive, it is palpable that Lord John's motion looks to
place the government in a minority on their trumpeted
measure; and so compel a resignation or dissolution
which will, in all probability, carry him once more to the
Treasury bench. There seems to exist a stern determina-
tion to unite on the vote in the ranks of Liberals and
ultra-Liberals : some exceptions, to be sure. Mr. E.
Ellice, Mr. Roebuck, Mr. Horsman, etc., are against the
motion; these exceptions are more than compensated
by defections from among the Conservatives: Lord
John anticipates success by a majority of sixty or
more.

1859. March 23. — Dined with Mr. Walter Sterling.
Sir Alexander and Lady Spearman and daughter were
there. Mr. Bay ley, M.P. for Manchester, and Mr.
Horsfall, M.P. for Liverpool, also present. Rather flat,
though hospitality unbounded.

1859. March 24. — Dined with the Vicar-General of the
Province, Dr. Travers Twiss, in Park Lane. The Danish
Minister, Lord Monteagle, Mr. Higgins, Mr. Cardwell,
Mr. Rives (of the Edinburg Review), Mr. Lowe, et al.

The Reform debate was adjourned over to to-day.
BulwerLytton has made a magnificent speech to-night;
so has the Solicitor-General Cairns: but it is all in
vain; the bill will be killed by Lord John Russell's
resolution, and, as Lord Monteagle says, by too decided
a majority to justify an appeal to the constituencies.
Bright spoke rather tamely.

Went from Dr. Twiss's at ten to Lord Wensleydale's.
He introduced me to a Mr. Paca, a Neapolitan, who has
been practising law here for many years, and with whose
lively and intelligent conversation I was greatly pleased,

1859. March 25. — After sending oflF my despatch bag,

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 325

hurried to the House of Commons. Reform still on.
Lord Palmerston spoke at about ten : was strongly for
the resolution of Russell : exposed the deficiencies of
the bill : admitted certain merits : thought the ten-pound
county franchise might safely be reduced: lectured
Cairns for his intemperate personality: said the reso-
lution would certainly carry, but, with great dexterity,
insisted that Ministers had taken the government with
its engagements^ and were bound to go on with their
measure ; they could not resign with honor, and had not
the legitimate power to dissolve Parliament under the
present circumstances. Lord John Russell will probably
think this speech cuts both ways. As to the last re-
mark of Palmerston, it seemed to me to intimate a fore-
gone conclusion in the Queen's mind, who may possibly
not assent to dissolve. Whiteside, Attorney-General for
Ireland, answered. He plumply declared that govern-
ment would not go on with the bill if the resolution
prevailed, and pressed upon the timid the idea that it
offered the only chance of Reform which they could
have this year.

The proposal of a European Congress on Italian
questions, offered by the Czar, has been, as now ascer-
tained, assented to by France, England, Prussia, and
Austria. Louis Napoleon invited Sardinia to join ; and that
may introduce Parma, Modena, Tuscany, and the other
inferior States. The Congress may be prepared to meet
at Geneva or Aix-la-Chapelle in August next; and in
the mean while, their meeting at all may be prevented
by a popular outbreak in Rome, or by conflicts on the
Ticino, between the confronting Piedmontese and Aus-
trian forces. Count Cavour is in Paris, on the invitation
of Louis Napoleon.

326 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

1859. March 28. — By appointment, Mr. Brett, the
distinguished engineer so successful in laying submarine
telegraphic wires, called to obtain my attestation as a
witness to his signing a contract which had already
been executed by Mr. Horatio Perry, our late Charge
d* Affaires at Madrid. It was an agreement as partners
to effect a line of telegraph (i) from England to the
south of France, (2) thence to Spain, (3) thence to
Madeira, (4) thence to the Cape de Verd Islands, (5)
thence across the Atlantic to Brazil, (6) thence up the
coast of South America to the West Indies, connecting
with the American line in Cuba, with many intermediate
branches. I signed as a witness to his signature, but
declined employing the seal of the legation, as General
Dodge had done in attesting the signature of Mr. Perry. I
read the contract attentively, and found the scheme to
be one of great extent, likely to require large exertions
and capital, and possibly to consume many years before
it could be in operation as a whole. I suggested cross-
ing South America from Brazil, and running the line on
the Pacific coast up to Oregon, British Columbia, and
even up to Behring*s Strait, whence it could penetrate
Asia, and finally encircle the earth. Mr. Brett said that
the expense of laying the wire on land was at the rate
of twenty-five pounds per mile.

Went at nine to the House of Commons, expecting to
hear Mr. Gladstone on Reform. I heard Sir James Gra-
ham. A calm, sober, manly, and somewhat republican
support of Lord John Russell's resolution. Sir James said
the ballot was augmenting in popularity everywhere,
though he remained opposed to it. He warned the
House repeatedly that the time had come for including
largely the working classes in the enjoyment of political

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 327

power, and argued impressively that it was useless to
refuse their demands.

In the Peers, Lord Clarendon elicited some statements
from Lord Malmesbury about the views of government
on the Italian question rather favorable to peace. Eng-
land would like to recover the prestige she has lost
by her Crimean campaign and her second fiddle to the
Parisian despot; but Lord Malmesbury is not the man
for this, — he is inexperienced, ignorant, and thence
necessarily timid, over-cautious, and slow. While giving
to Louis Napoleon Lord Cowley as an agent to discover
the wishes of Austria under the disguise of a friendly
British Minister, he has neglected the moment of action,
and has allowed Russia to take the initiative in the pro-
posal for a European Congress. Bungle, bungle, bungle !

1859. March 29. — Went to hear Gladstone. He
stands by the Ministry, and thus proved his gratitude for
having been appointed Lord High Commissioner to the
Ionian Islands. Perhaps, too, he now looks to a peerage.
But, alas, he could do no more than eloquently rehash
the old and exploded praises of the small rotten bor-
oughs ! Shame to the Philhellene !

1859. March 30. — A violent snow-storm all day;
clearing up in the evening, with freezing. The reception
to-day very limited, owing to the weather.

Bridgewater House.

My Dear Sir, — A former sovereign of these realms, William the
Fourth, would have resented the supposition that anybody but himself
was head of the Church, There have, however, been various theories
about the particular status of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and, as you
are about to dine at Lambeth and may wish to be prepared on the sub-
ject, I will mention one of them.

It is told that the son of a clergyman, having been plucked at the Ox*
ford examination for a failure in his divinity, which is always fatal in that

«
«

328 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

University, was closely interrogated by his father as to the details of his
misfortune.

<' I was asked,*' he said, " who was the mediator between God and
man."

Well, sir, and what did you reply ?'*
Of course I answered, * the Archbishop of Canterbury.* **
Oh, you stupid boy ! Didn't you know that Dr. Green had had a
quarrel with the Archbishop ?"

This anecdote I had many years ago from our Chancellor Lord Eldon,
who had a good deal of drollery in him when off the woolsack and at
the dinner-table.

If it please God to prevent squabbles between peppery naval authorities,
I do not despair. We have an excellent and sober admiral on the N. A.
station, and I believe the same may be said of our naval men in command
generally in that quarter.

Ever, my dear sir.

Faithfully yours,

Egerton Ellesmere.
The Hon. G M. Dai las.

Dined at Lambeth Palace. Lords Overstone and
Monteagle, Sir David Dundas, Mr. Spencer Walpole,
etc., etc., were at table.

At eleven went to Lady Alice Peel's. The Duchess
of Saxe-Coburg and her spouse there. The Count de
Paris also. Many of the Diplomatic Corps attended, at-
tracted by the royalties. General Peel overwhelmingly
civil to me, as also the Duke of Cambridge. Com-
pletely tired out, I declined going either to Lord Pal-
merston's or Lord Hardwicke's.

1859. ^P^ I- — The House divided on Lord John
Russell's motion against the ministerial reform bill, after
continuing the discussion all yesterday, at one o'clock
this morning. The vote stood 330 for the motion and
291 for government; majority, 39! An adjournment
took place to Monday next, giving to Lord Derby and
his colleagues opportunity to decide what course to take,

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 329

whether dissolution, resignation, or a new bill. At noon
to-day the Cabinet convened, and after a consultation of
two hours Lord Derby proceeded to Buckingham Palace.
In the House of Lords this evening he has mentioned his
interview with the Queen, in consequence of the vote in
the Commons, but he has adjourned until Monday next
any exposition of what the government intends doing.
Carefully reflecting on the little thus developed, I incline
to think, from what is omitted to be said as well as from
what is said, that the Ministers do not propose either to
dissolve Parliament or to resign. They will plead the
danger of war in Europe.

1859. April 5. — Went yesterday to both Houses of
Parliament. In the Commons, Mr. Disraeli stated with
happy dignity and moderation the course resolved upon
by the government, — namely, a dissolution, as soon as cer-
tain measures were disposed of. Lord Palmerston, Mr.
Bright, and Lord John Russell followed in pointed
speeches vindicating the proceeding of the majority,
condemning the ministerial course, and showing that
they went to the country without an issue for decision,
for they abandoned reform. Lord Derby in the other
chamber vented himself spitefully upon Palmerston,
Russell, and Graham, speaking with extreme bitterness
and arrogance, as Lord Wensleydale said to me, " con
amore," sed " cum odio." How unfitting a conduct for
a Prime Minister! The true and manly and politic
course was to accept tranquilly the vote of the House,
resign, and resume his seat on the opposition bench.

I was this morning called upon by Captain Sir Edward
Belcher, the celebrated Arctic explorer. He introduced
himself, and we had an interesting half-hour's conversa-
tion. He is of opinion that several groups of Sir John

330 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Franklin's associates will yet be discovered in detached
parties among the natives.

1859. April 6. — A bright and beautiful day. The
Queen's levee, our own reception, and an evening party
at Lord Palmerston's. 'Y\i^ first crowded and protracted,
the second quite a success, and the third brilliant as well
as politically very interesting. Had a long talk with
Lord Broughton, who characterized the dissolution as
the worst public act which a Parliamentary government
could have performed. It is bitterly and loudly con-
demned as unwarranted by the ministerial situation, in-
terrupting national business, involving an expenditure of
more than a million of pounds, producing violent and
universal agitation, sure to encourage the most radical
doctrines, and ending, as every man knows, in augment-
ing the strength of the Liberals, all to gratify Lord
Derby's spite.

Three Orientals of historical interest were at the levee,
in their rich costumes of cloth of gold, — an old man,
the son of Tippoo Saib, and the grandsons, remarkably
animated and striking in appearance. I talked with
them for some time, when they afterwards came to
Lord Palmerston's. They have been pensioned by the
British government ever since their great ancestor was
despoiled.

Met at Lord Palmerston's Baron Poerio, the Neapoli-
tan. He is a short, intelligent-looking, mild, and un-
affected gentleman. He says his health had been so
impaired by his imprisonment for ten years that he
could not have survived the long voyage which the
David Steward would probably have had across the
Atlantic. Besides, he represented the vessel as badly
manned and provided.

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES, 33 1

1859. April 8. — Rout at Colonel Wilson Patton's,
M.P. I told Sir H. Willoughby that, having studied it
nearly all my life, as a lawyer, I understood the Con-
stitution of England as well as Mr. Gladstone or Lord
Derby, and that I could conceive of nothing more in-
consistent with its fundamental principles than the little
nomination of rotten boroughs. He said, quietly, that
he represented one of them in the House of Commons I

1859. April 9. — Fresh and fierce symptoms of war
at Vienna. Armies ordered sixty thousand strong.

Captain Prentiss, of the David Steward, called to
rectify an error in his claim against Naples — from thirty-
eight hundred to twenty-eight hundred — on his charter-
party to carry out the Neapolitan exiles. He represented
them as very disagreeable, dissatisfied, and unmanagea-
ble guests, — not unlikely 1

1859. -^/^ II- — Louis Napoleon arranges with the
Director of the railway for sending thirty thousand
additional to the neighbourhood of Lyons.

At the ball of Jones of St. Pancras, M.P., Colonel
Patten said that in the House of Commons this after-
noon it was currently stated and believed that the Roths-
childs had bought into the funds for five millions, which
was construed, viewing the excellence of their means of
intelligence, into a sign of peace. It is, however, if the
fact be so, capable of other natural speculations : they
may have bought at present reduced prices the very
stocks they sold some time ago, in order to realize their
profits; or they may have invested here funds drawn
from the countries threatened with war.

1859. April 12. — The Rothschilds* story of purchase
into funds fades as fiction.

1859. April 13. — Our reception thronged and lively.

332 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Countesses Derby, Hardwicke, and Apponyi, Marchio-
ness of Salisbury, Ladies Airey, Hall, Bathurst, etc.
Reception at Lord Palmerston*s.

1859. -Ap^ 14- — Queen's drawing-room. Company
numerous and brilliant. A mischievous partisan photo-
graph, by my lively friend Lady Donoughmore, of the
Duchess of S ; " a quilt and a night-cap 1"

Austria, pushed to the corner by the mediating powers,
consents to go into Congress and there settle the Italian
question, upon the condition precedent that there shall
be a general simultaneous disarmament. France says
she hasn't armed, and, therefore, cannot disarm. Pied-
mont has no objection, if all the Austrian armaments
throughout the States of Italy, which are standing men-
aces to her safety, are first withdrawn. The ministerial
development here, on this subject, was to-night deferred
in both Houses to Monday next. They have a hard road
to travel.

Lady Morgan* died last night.

1859. April 16. — Dined with the Danish Minister,
— Admiral von Dorkum, Dr. Travers Twiss, and the
money-article writer for the Times at table. So, also,
Swedish Minister Count Platen and his wife, M. Conti
and wife. Secretary of Spanish legation.

Went at near eleven to Lord Clarendon's : a gay and
noisy rout. Lord Palmerston there, also Lord Chan-
cellor Chelmsford and Lord Hardwicke. Had a long
talk with Sir George Cornwall Lewis about the prospect
of war; he don't doubt its coming, and distrusts the
ultimate designs of Napoleon. Delane, of the Times, was
present.

* Authoress of " The Wild Irish Girl."

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 333

1859. ^P^i^ 18. — Queen holds a Privy Council at
Buckingham Palace, and will prorogue Parliament by
Commission to-morrow. She proceeds to Windsor this
afternoon.

First to the Commons and afterwards to the Lords to
hear the ministerial statement as to the diplomatic posi-
tion in the question of peace or war. Disraeli, Palmer-
ston, Malmesbury, Clarendon, and Derby spoke; but
the development of the Government darkened the pros-
pect The feeling in favour of Piedmont's attitude —
refusing to disarm for a Congress into which she was
not admitted — showed itself in the House by cheers.
That she should have been asked to do this by England
will tell fatally against Malmesbury. He bungled, too,
so far as to be on the eve of joining France in guarantee-
ing Piedmont, if she would disarm against Austria; thus
making England a party to the Continental embroglio.
France assents to the principle of disarmament, but, like
Russia, postpones the fact for deliberation by Congress.
Austria insists upon its proceeding. Neutrality — ^armed
neutrality — is the order of Lord Derby's march, who
spoke of the various proposals and counter-proposals
between Austria and France as a " trifling" not to be
tolerated beyond the disposition of the final suggestion
he has made ; but the opposition dilute this neutrality
with a strong leaning towards Italian deliverance from
the bayonets of foreigners and bad local governments.

1859. April 21. — Dined with Mr. Bates. Met Mr. T.
Baring and Mr. Reed, our Minister to China. The
latter agreeable about the Chinese and Japanese : effec-
tually cured of Anglo-mania.

A telegram from Turin in the Times says that General

Gyulai has been ordered to announce a Declaration of

29*

334 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

War against Piedmont if she do not within three days
disarm and dismiss the volunteers! So, then, Malmes-
bury*s incessant proposals have lulled France into a
false security and Austria has got the start! If this be
so, the excitement in France will be tremendous; she
will consider herself betrayed into dishonour by her
closest ally ; and we may have a war of twenty years.
The arrogance of Austria has put Napoleon in the
right, and his opportunity to follow the career of his
uncle is capital. Poor Sardinia will be crushed before
she can be relieved !

1859. April 22. — Napoleon is stated to be expediting
his armies to Piedmont. His generals are all assigned
to their respective divisions, most of them to the south-
eastern frontier of France : Malakoff to the northeast,
at Nancy, Commander-in-chief of the Army of Obser-
vation. The game opens grandly, with a coolness and
precision which manifest long predetermined preparation.
When the Emperor, a few days ago, was earnestly
begged for a military appointment, he is said to have
replied, " They are all given, and I want one for myself."
He probably will command in person.

1859. ^P^i^ 26. — Young Hutchinson, just arrived from
United States, dined with us. Such inquiries and an-
swers about everything in Philadelphia ! He is on his
way to Liege, in Belgium.

1859. April 2y, — A treaty of alliance, offensive and
defensive, is announced as executed on the 22d inst,
between Russia and France. Russia has two Armies of
Observation, — one on the eastern frontier of Russia, the
other on the eastern frontier of Galicia. The Emperor
Napoleon starts for the " Army of Italy " this morning.

1859. April 28. — Stock exchange in a perfect panic.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 33S

Consols went as low as 88. A treaty of alliance, offen-
sive and defensive, announced between France and
Denmark. Why this? Has it any bearing on the
freedom of the Russian fleet to come in and out the
Baltic through the Sound ?

1859. April 29. — I had an extremely interesting inter-
view with Lord Malmesbury this afternoon. In appear-
ance, he has grown ten years older during the last two
months. He looks thoroughly " abattu," — ^pale, dejected,
worn. We interchanged salutations, and I introduced con-
versation by saying that I knew his oppressive engage-
ments just now, and really regretted being obliged to in-
voke his attention. I was aware of his persevering and in-
defatigable efforts to preserve the peace, and, whatever
might be their result, he would have the applause of the
world. " Well," said he, " I have kept them from fight-
ing for two months. I have laboured at it for fourteen
hours daily, and am fairly exhausted ; but it is now over,
the negotiations are at an end ; they are fighting this very
day." I said that I had never for a moment, since Janu-
ary I, doubted that the French Emperor had determined
upon war ; that, having resolved upon his line of policy,
nothing could deter him from proceeding straight for-
wards in carrying it out. He replied such appeared to
be the case, and no one could foresee where it would
lead him.

1859. May 3. — Dined with the Minister of the Han-
seatic League, Mr. Rucker, and his pretty wife. Met
Mr. Schleiden, who represents the same League at Wash-
ington. A charming dinner and an agreeable one.

The manifestos of the two Emperors, explanatory for
going to war, are out. Napoleon's is clear, forcible, im-
pressive, and exciting. Stuck upon the walls of Paris,

336 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

it kindles enthusiasm among the gamins who cluster
round to read it. Austria's is dignified and patriarchal^
but rather tame. It may, however, well suit the German
temperament.

There was no fight in Piedmont on the day Lord
Malmesbury supposed. The Austrian invaders, how-
ever, have crossed the Ticino, have had a skirmish with
some Sardinians, and lost a Colonel and thirteen men.
It is said forty thousand of the French are at Genoa,
from Algiers, Toulon, and Marseilles.

1859. May /^, — Reception; not a crowd, but exceed-
ingly acceptable visitors, and enough.

1859. May 6. — Went to exhibition of paintings in
water colours, some things admirable and exquisite.

1859. May y, — A drawing-room at St. James's Palace;
I talked all the time to Lord Stanley. Malakofif leaves to-
night, with his lovely Marechale, for Paris. It is rumoured
that Persigny succeeds him. Strange] but it would
appear that the Austrians, after crossing the Po and in-
vading Piedmont, have suddenly, and without any obvious
cause, retreated and recrossed the river ! Is it a feint ?
Have the Croatians insisted upon the pledge given them
that they were not to be marched over the Austrian
boundary ? Have the deluges of rain produced disorder
and disease ? Or is there a quarrel between Generals
Hess and Gyulai as to the mode of opening the cam-
paign ? Everybody questions, nobody answers.

Louis Napoleon still lingers in Paris.

1859. May g, — A great death in Berlin on Saturday,
— Humboldt, turned of ninety!

1859. -^^7 ^o. — Levee at St. James's Palace.

The Emperor, accompanied by Prince Napoleon, left
Paris at six p.m. last evening, by rail for Marseilles, on his

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 337

way to take command of the Army of Italy. He leaves
the Empress as Regent, under special instructions and
with special advisers.

1859. May 13. — Hard at work all day for the steamer
of to-morrow.

Concert in the evening at Buckingham Palace. Sir
John Lawrence there ; an admirable personal represen-
tation of his real character — sagacity, energy, and de-
termination in every lineament of countenance and
figure. He had been created a K. C. B. during this day,
and wore the broad red ribbon. Conversed with Lord
Derby, who said he was delighted to know from Lord
Malmesbury that the relations of our two countries were
on the best footing. Also with Lord Hardwicke, who
anticipated difficulties in the trade with coal, as an arti-
cle contraband of war. Also with Ex-Chancellor Cran-
worth, whom I surprised by announcing to him the
removal from office of Count Buol, Minister of Austrian
Foreign Affairs. This news had just arrived, and was
told me by Tricoupi. Also with Sir Edward Cust, who
disliked Mr. Sickles, from what he had observed of him
while Secretary of Legation here, and who thought he
should have been convicted of the murder of Key, and
then pardoned. Also with Moreria, who was curious
to know my thoughts as to the war, and its probable
results. I told him that all we Americans must go with
Piedmont and France up to the expulsion of the Aus-
trians from Italy ; but, after that, I confessed it was difficult
to foresee the complications to arise, though in the end we
might expect to find the Czar in Constantinople, France
possessed of Egypt, England, coalesced with Austria,
Prussia, and Germany, laying herself open to invasion, and
all the monarchies endangered by popular revolutions.

338 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

The Queen issued to-night her Proclamation of Neu*
trality. Yet England is arming to the teeth.

1859. ^^y H- — ^Visited the Royal Gallery for a couple
of hours with Susan. A few delightful pictures : the
" Doubtful Crumbs," by Landseer, and his stag in the
water pursued by hounds, one of which is near enough
to seize the throat or to be resolutely homed. The
" Home Again," pendant to " Eastward Ho," is fine and
moving. Too many immense portraits, none really good.
Lady Londonderry with her children, fit for a huge barn-
door ; Lord Chancellor Chelmsford, for New York City
Hall.

1859. May 17. — Went in the evening to Sir John Pak-
ington's at the Admiralty Office. Conversed freely with
Colonel Wilson Patten, M.P., on the effects likely to be
produced by the Proclamation of Neutrality upon the trade
in coals and provisions. I told him what seemed to me
would be produced among his mercantile constituents of
Liverpool, especially pointing out the placing it in the
power of private prosecutors to create prosecutions for
misdemeanor against shippers, a power which Austrian
consular functionaries might feel it a duty to exercise.

1859. ^^y i8. — Our "at home." Lord and Lady
Napier were the first to call. They have returned with
the warmest sense of their treatment in the United States,
and talked most acceptably about many of my family
and friends. His Lordship complimented me upon the
prophetic spirit with which for more than a year past I
had noted the incidents leading inevitably to the present
European war. Lady Napier spoke of my youthful
grandniece, Agnes Irwin, as the most talented and agree-
able girl she had met in America ! This is a result, too,
which I predicted several years ago.

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 339

1859. May 19. — Queen's appointed, not actual, birth-
day. She was born on May 24th. A brilliant drawing-
room, at which we presented General and Mrs. Morgan,
our diplomatic representative at Lisbon. Had a long
and interesting conversation with Lord John Manners
(Public Works). A grand official dinner by Lord
Malmesbury, in Downing Street. The laborious day
closed with an intolerable squeeze at Lord Derby's
quarters in the same locale.

There is something I cannot exactly comprehend in the
general impression expressed by merchants in England
and dwelt upon in the newspapers to the effect that, not-
withstanding the Queen's Proclamation, commerce carried
on from here will be safer in American vessels and under
the American flag than in British bottoms with British
colours. Both nations are neutral, and both admit the
belligerent right of search for contraband of war. As
equally neutral, both can safely ship innocent merchan-
dise, and both are liable to the consequences of having
on board military supplies. If there be a difference, it is
one rather against the shipping of the United States, for
we did not become party to the Declaration made at the
Congress of Paris in 1856, owing to the indivisibility of
the four propositions and our rejecting most wisely the
abolition of privateering ; so that we cannot claim for
our vessels exemption, under " free ships make free
goods," from belligerent search and the necessity of
surrendering up enemy's property. We cannot carry
enemy's property as safely as the English can.

1859. ^^y 20. — Went in the evening to the Prussian
Minister's. Not a large company. Inferior music.
Spoke to Mr. S. Fitzgerald, Under-Secretary of Foreign
Affairs, about the high rates of duty on tobacco and the

340 DIAR y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

possibility of negotiating successfully for a reduction.
He was very discouraging, but, at my request, promised
a Blue Book on the subject.

1859. May 21. — Mr. Seward called. Came over in the
Ariel. Arrived in London last night, and his first visit
is to me !

The battle of Montebello announced. The French
General, Fiorey, victorious after a severe struggle, and
the Austrians under Stadion retreat over the Po ! So
opens the war where Lannes gained his laurels under the
great Napoleon, close to the field of Marengo.

1859. May 23. — Visited the Royal Gallery and com-
pared the modern with the old masters. Alas ! we are
very far behind the great painters which preceded us I
Contrast that immense Paul Veronese, " Alexander Re-
ceiving the Family of Darius," with West or Alston 1

1859. ^^y 25. — An amusing rencontre at our "at
home." Persigny, who has taken Malakoff's post, held
me steadily in the corner of a sofa descanting long and
earnestly in vindication of his sovereign's course of pro-
ceeding in relation to the war. As he was proceeding
in most animated style, who should come in but Hulse-
man, from Washington, where he has represented Austria
for something short of a century. I rose to welcome
him, whereupon he entered upon his habitual flippant
volubility as to the motives of his arrival. He obviously
knew nobody in the room but the family, so I thought it
best to edge in a caution, and, making a sign, said in a
low tone, " The French Ambassador." He underwent
an electric shock, gave utterance to an audible " Ah I"
and whisked round. Persigny overheard, but quietly
remarked to my daughter, on a picture hanging on the
wall, " Who is the artist ?"

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 34 1

The Duchess of Kent, the Queen's mother, now about
seventy-three, is reported to be seriously ill. Her
Majesty comes from Osborne to-morrow with the Prin-
cess Frederick William of Prussia.

Mr. Seward came to our reception, and, wanting a
guide, I took him to the flower show at the Botanic
Garden. The throng was immense. We were much
delayed. I invited him to take pot-luck at dinner. He
did so, and remained until near eleven o'clock.

1859. May 27. — In the evening went to the Earl of
Lanesborough's. He is an Irish representative Peer.
Made the acquaintance of Captain Carnegie, whom Sir
John Pakington forced to resign his place as a Lord of
the Admiralty because he would not run for Doon at
the recent election.

Garibaldi has clearly turned the Austrian extreme
right, and is in Lombardy. He has taken Varese, and
has issued a proclamation invoking a revolutionary rise.
He will advance to Como without delay. His whole
force in the nature of guerillas is estimated at from six
to ten thousand men ; no artillery, except two cannon
captured from an Austrian party, and no cavalry. If he
get in the rear of the Austrian armies, make a dash at
Milan, and awaken the people to rebellion, he will run
the chance of eclipsing so completely the movements of
the Emperor Napoleon and the King Victor Emmanuel,
as well as the allied generals, that he may incur the dan-
ger of universal jealousy and dislike. His is another
striking illustration of the rule that a cause should be
entrusted to those who sincerely believe in and love it.
Garibaldi is wedded to the independence and liberty of
Italy, and puts his faith in his people.

1859. May 28. — Dined with Mr. Moffat, late Member

342 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

of Parliament for Ashburton. He has just lost his elec-
tion, though he intends to contest his adversary's majority
of one. Rather a stupid time, relieved for a few minutes
by an animated partisan philippic from Mr. James Wilson,
the founder of the Economist^ and the recent distin-
guished Financial Secretary of the Treasury. He bore
down fiercely upon the Ministry, and especially upon
Malmesbury.

We had also at table the famous mesmeric Dr. Elliott,
whose dark, deep, and impressive face brought to my
mind irresistibly Dumas's delineation of Balsamo in his
" Memoires d*un Medecin."

At eleven p.m. proceeded to Lord Palmerston's.
Crowded and brilliant. Governor Seward there. Glad-
stone, cornered by Lord Palmerston, with a look of
mingled tribulation and anger, his Lordship speaking to
him calmly and steadily, as a school-master would chide
an erring pupil !

1859. June I. — News of another battle at Palestro.
French successful, and Victor Emmanuel gains bright
spurs by personal courage. Napoleon sent him during
the conflict his favourite regiment of Third Zouaves, who
carried a height with impetuosity, driving four hundred
Austrians into a canal. Canrobert was in this engage-
ment.

The Queen has determined to please the Legation,
unexpectedly and contrary to all usage, sending invita-
tions to her concert of this evening to Bishop Delancey
and Mr. Seward. I presented the latter. The music
was very good. One song by Titiens, admirable. Met
Lord Elgin for the first time since his return from China.
The Princess Frederick William has grown taller and
become in all respects an attractive woman ; nothing in

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 343

her look or manner indicated that she had suffered from
detecting her husband to have had a " morganatic wife
already !"

1859. J^^^ 3- — A press of American visitors yesterday
and to-day; among them Colonel Crittenden, of our
army, introduced by General Scott, and Mr. Ferine, of
Baltimore, introduced by Chief-Justice Taney.

Took with us to Lord Derby's, at eleven p.m., Mr.
Butler, the Secretary of Legation at Berlin. A dance,
an incredible crowd, and very warm. The Premier in
gayest spirits, telling Lord Clarendon he was bent on
suffocating all the opposition to-night.

A circular signed by Palmerston, Russell, Milner Gib-
son, EUice, and others, invokes for Monday next a
caucus of all the Liberals of the House. The object is
to confer upon the course to be taken by the opposition
to effect a change of Government. The expedient is a
delicate and dangerous one ; it may burst in the hands
of its managers, and utterly destroy the party union it is
designed to effect. How can Roebuck or Bright be ex-
cluded ? and, if present, can they forbear a disorganizing
attack upon the Whig leaders ? The general impression,
however, is, as Colonel Patten told me to-night, that a
vote of want of confidence will be agreed upon in amend-
ment of the address, and that they will take the chances
of a new Ministry being fairly constituted. This is really
not altogether a game for office : the Liberals believe
that in a time of war something better than Malmesbury is
essential to the country, and that a parliamentary major-
ity sustaining the government is necessary to its attitude.
The calculators anticipate carrying the resolution of
censure by not less than nineteen majority, sufficiently
large to upset, but hardly broad enough to build upon.

344 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

1859. June 6. — A great battle at Magenta, a town on
the Lombard side of the Ticino, took place the day
before yesterday, — Saturday morning. Fifteen thousand
Austrians hots de combat^ and five thousand prisoners !
The outposts of the Allies were close to Milan before
the sun set.

The caucus of Liberals at Willis's rooms to-day
numbered two hundred and seventy-four. Palmerston,
Russell, and Bright bent on union. A motion to be
made to amend the address to the Queen, so as to ex-
press a want of confidence. Roebuck, Horsman, and
Lindsay against it : the only dissentients.

1859. June 7. — The Queen opens Parliament; House
of Lords exceedingly imposing and showy. Many
peers, many Bishops, and a crowded Commons. In the
afternoon the want of confidence amendment offered in
the House by Lord Hartington. I attended and heard
Disraeli's speech in defence — full of eloquent sarcasm^
but no forcible argument.

1859. y««^ 8. — Ball at Buckingham Palace. Con-
versed long with Lord Chancellor Chelmsford, to reach
whom I left the diplomatic corner and went round to the
opposite platform. I had two purposes: first, to see
whether he anticipated being displaced, and, second, to
impress upon him my conviction that the French Em-
peror would leave the Italians to choose their own rulers
and laws as soon as he effected their independence of
Austria. He exultingly expects the defeat of the Liberal
attack, and he is obviously anti-Louis Napoleon. A Tory
is like a Bourbon, — he learns nothing and forgets nothing.

The Queen coquetted between the belligerent sover-
eigns, dancing with Persigny and then with Apponyi ;
so also in her attentions to the two ladies.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 345

A report prevailed during the day that the Allies had
been beaten back over the Ticino, and that the Sardinian
King had been killed. In the ballroom, Persigny came
to me and said he had in his pocket a telegram, received
an hour ago, announcing the falsehood of the story, and
stating the entry this morning of the Emperor and his
ally in triumph into Milan.

iZ$g, June g. — Dined with Lord Lyndhurst. Earls
Clarendon and Malmesbury, Lady Clarendon, Lord and
Lady Napier, Mr. Gladstone, Mr. Ellice, Mr. Seward,
and two or three others.

Gladstone told a piquant story of what Lord Brougham

had said of Sir J. G , to wit, that he had known his

mother very well, and had called to see her shortly after

Sir J was born; that the nurse was ordered to bring

the infant in to show him, and as soon as he came he
misbehaved himself! "As he has been doing ever
since," said Mr. Ellice. Great laughter followed this
sally.

1859. June 10. — Another battle at Melegnano. Aus-
trians defeated. Bonaparte has created MacMahon Duke
of Magenta. The Austrians retreating beyond the
Adda, after abandoning Piacenza and blowing up the
Citadel.

1859. June II. — This morning, at about two a.m., the

division on the amendment to the address took place in

the House, resulting in a majority of thirteen against

the Government. A Cabinet Council at twelve, and

Lord Derby soon after proceeded to the Palace and

tendered to her Majesty the resignation of the Ministry.

Accepted. Lord Granville sent for, and subsequently

Lord Palmerston.

1859. J^^^^^ 18. — The Ministerial crisis has continued

30*

346 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

all the week. This evening the Globe contains the
following: "Inauguration of the New Ministry. This
morning Her Majesty the Queen held a Court and
Privy Council at Windsor Castle, for the purpose of
formally receiving from Lord Derby's administration the
seals of office, and transferring them to the new govern-
ment, which has been formed under Lord Palmerston.

" Her Majesty gave audience to the Earl of Derby
and his late colleagues. The Lord Chancellor gave up
the great seal, the Secretaries their seals, and other offi-
cials their wands."

The new Ministers were afterwards admitted to an
audience, received the seals of office, and kissed hands
on their appointments.

THE CABINET.

First Lord of the Treasury. — Viscount Palmerston, KG.

Chancellor of the Exchequer. — Mr. W. E. Gladstone.

Secretaries of State : For the Foreign Department. —
Lord John Russell. For the Home Depart^nent. — Sir G.
Cornewall Lewis. For the Colonial Department. — The
Duke of Newcastle.

For War, — Mr. Sidney Herbert

For India, — Sir C. Wood, G.C.B.

First Lord of the Admiralty, — ^The Duke of Somerset.

Lord Chancellor, — Lord Campbell.

President of tlie Council, — Earl Granville, K.G.

Privy Seal. — ^The Duke of Argyll, K.T.

Postmaster-General, — The Earl of Elgin, K.T.

President of the Board of Trade, — Mr. R. Cobden.

President of the Poor-Law Board, — Mr. Milner Gibson.

Secretary for Ireland, — Mr. Cardwell.

Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, — Sir G» Grey.

AT THE COURT CF ST, JAMES. .347

This Cabinet is a compound of materials heretofore
esteemed discordant, if not irreconcilable ; it is, however,
intellectually powerful, and the strong sense of the abso-
lute necessity of saving the Liberal party by overlooking
differences of individual opinion may enable it to work
on. There are Whigs of every tint and shade, from the
extreme Radical to the just short of Tory. The only
almost inexplicable feature of it is Mr. Gladstone; a
gentleman who has, as Lord Commissioner to the Ionian
Isles under Lord Derby's government, just returned
from office, who on the question of reform champions
rotten boroughs, and who voted against the want of con-
fidence amendment to the Address. Lord Palmerston
has carried the idea of a '' broad basis " to the frontier
of " no party." It bodes no good.

1859. y^»^ 20. — Two dangers, like lions in his path,
seem before Louis Napoleon. The first is that his vic-
torious army will not consent to return to France until
they have visited Vienna, and the second that his stirring
up the Hungarians to revolt, with the aid of Klapka and
Kossuth, will bring upon his back Prussia, Germany, and
mayhap England. He may be sincere in his wish to
localize the war, and to end it as soon as the Austrians
are driven out of Italy, but circumstances may force him
onwards. Phaeton would have liked to perform the
diurnal revolution with the Chariot of the Sun, but wise
wishes and good intentions are not independent of events.

A brilliant ball to-night at the French Embassy. The
reinstated Ministers first. I hailed Lord John Russell on
the staircase, I going up, he coming down, at twelve, as
" Mon chef." He smiled, said, " Thank you," and added,
" You are a bold man, in this place and so early, to throw
pff your diplomatic allegiance to Persigny." He seemed

348 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

to think sorrre reply was necessary, and made a flat one.
He, Lord Elgin, and Lady Palmerston were made
strangely handsome by the beaming delight of their coun-
tenances. E converso. Lord Clarendon looked as if
smoking a bad cigar. Of all imperturbable men, give
me Lord Palmerston !

1859. June 22. — Concert at the Palace. King of Bel-
gium, Count of Flanders, etc., there. Why this visit?
Does his Majesty wish to urge the Regent of Prussia,
through the British Court, to take his stand at the head of
the German Confederation against France in Italy ? Take
care, Leopold ; you are but a mouthful for your great
neighbours. Besides, your policy overreaches itself, and
leads to the very mischief you apprehend. If Prussia,
by a measure of unjust intermeddling, provoke Napoleon,
all France will rise at his summons and overflow its
frontiers.

1859. J^^^ 25. — A very crowded and fatiguing levee
at St. James's to-day. Count Persigny came beaming up
to me, stating that he had a telegraphic despatch of a
great battle on the right bank of the Mincio, in which
the Austrians were defeated, driven from their position,
and with an immense loss of men, guns, and standards,
the whole army, on each side engaged, extending in a
line of fifteen miles. The victory telegraphed by the
Emperor to the Empress. The fight began at four a.m.
on the 24th of June and continued for sixteen hours.
These are all the details given.

At the door of the Throne-Room, while the Queen
was receiving her visitors to-day at the levee, one of the
gentlemen was stopped, insisting upon keeping his hat
on (a military chapeau). For a minute the line was in-
terrupted. Her Majesty and the Prince Consort leaned

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 349

forward as if to see the cause, and then laughed, ob-
serving that it was the Earl of Kinsale exercising his
undoubted hereditary privilege of doing an uncivil and
ungraceful thing by remaining covered in the presence
of his sovereign! One would expect of a civilized
nobility that so indecent a privilege would long since
have been renounced. In America, the hat must have
been knocked off the head unscrupulously ; but in re-
fined England it is a part of the religion of aristocracy
to preserve, however disgraceful, the usages and traditions
of mediaeval barbarism. Per se, the act, performed es-
pecially before a Lady, is one of Jacobinical rudeness.
Thus it is that extremes meet.

Went to Lord Palmerston's at eleven o'clock. Ester-
hazy seized me here as he had seized me at the levee,
and talked with the awkward loudness of a deaf man.

1859. June 26. — Went by rail to Hatton, the residence
of the Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer, Sir Fred-
erick Pollock, about eighteen miles from London. Met,

in addition to a most numerous family. Sir Bram-

well. Justice, and Mr. Oliphant, Lord Elgin's Secretary
in China. Mr. Seward was there. The Chief Baron
takes great pride in the arrangements of his house, his
lawn, shrubbery, and mock ruins ; and he took us to see
them all. His conservatories are small but numerous,
and crowded with beautiful fruit, — peaches, nectarines,
grapes, plums, oranges. His dairy, too, was rich in milk,
cream, and butter, with large white glass pans. He told me
he was seventy-six years of age, that he had twenty-three
sons and daughters, and had married twice. How many
of his children are by the present Lady Pollock I could
not venture to inquire ; some, of both sexes, seemed to
be nearly her age. I enjoyed a long conversation with

350 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the Chief Baron, de omnibus rebus et quibusdam aliis, at
night, after the rest of the guests had returned to London.
He esteems Jury Trial mainly for its character as an
equitable tribunal. As a judge he has an established
reputation for penetrating the truth and making it
triumph in defiance of technical forms or positive law.
He repudiated the maxim commonly repeated that Chris-
tianity was a part of the British law. He is upright,
laborious, firm, and always merciful. He leaves his
home regularly at half-past eight a.m., comes to West-
minster Hall, and remains till four p.m., when he drives
to Waterloo Station, and reaches his home again in less
than an hour. Such is his course throughout the year,
except when on Circuit. He is a great admirer of Mar-
shall, Kent, Story, and Taney.

1859. J^^^ 27. — Returned from Hatton with the Chief
Baron this morning. In the afternoon went out to Rich-
mond Hill to a large dinner of thirty-six given by Lady
Chantrey, widow of the famous sculptor. The Bishop of
Winchester was there, and introduced himself to me as
a warm friend of my cousin, Alexander Dallas, Rector
of Wonston. The Bishop of Oxford, the Dean of St.
PauTs, and a number of other interesting personages
present.

The battle of the 24th inst. on the right or western
bank of the river Mincio has been christened by the
Moniteur " Solferino," because it was really won by the
French Emperor's taking that village, leading his army
in person. It seems, notwithstanding its protracted
duration and its immense loss of life on both sides, not
to be decisive. The Austrians recrossed the Mincio at
the close, the French occupied their positions, and so the
matter stands. No hurried retreat, and no pursuit.

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 3$ I

1859. June 29. — Mr. Cobden arrived from the United
States at Liverpool by a Quebec steamer this morning.
He deliberates whether to accept the Board of Trade
offered by Lord Palmerston. A politician who deliber-
ates is, like a woman, lost

1859. June 30. — Ball at Buckingham Palace last even-
ing. Leopold of Belgium, the Count of Flanders, and
the Prince of Oporto were present. The Prince of
Wales, too, on his return from Rome and travels, look-
ing more manly and much improved, though still very
boyish and undersized.

Lord Clarence Paget, Milner Gibson, Monckton
Milnes, and Charles Villiers were surprised by my telling
them of Cobden*s arrival, and a general solicitude spread
through the ballroom to know if he would enter the
Cabinet.

Had a long talk in the refreshment-room with Lord
Stanley, who begged me to explain the precise principle
upon which turned the difference between the Douglas
faction of the Democratic party and the extremists of
the South. He took it in immediately, and said it was
a difference fraught with very large, practical conse-
quences.

Mr. Cobden's speech, highly complimentary and grate-
ful towards the United States, appears fully reported in
the Times of this morning.

1859. J^h 4- — Celebration by the American Associa-
tion in the great hall of St. James's. Mr. Bright made
a strong and assailable speech ; Mr. Digby Smith, a rabid,
roaring, Hibernian one ; a gentleman from New York,
named General Vandenburg, a good-sense one, terribly
protracted. I spoke briefly and comprehensively in
response to the first toast, ** The Day We Celebrate."

352 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

1859. July 6. — Dined with the Marquis of Westmin-
ster. Took in the celebrated and lively Lady Walde-
grave, wife of Mr. Harcourt. Did not know who she
was until later at night, but discovered her to be emi-
nently intelligent and agreeable. She is the attractive
and fashionable star of Strawberry Hill, Horace Wal-
pole's place, and the grand-daughter of Sheridan. Had
a long and animated talk with Mr. Whitbread, grandson
of the great brewer whom I heard when here in 1813-14.
He married an Earl's daughter (Chichester), and is
twenty-nine.

Went at eleven o'clock to Lord Lansdowne's, taking
Carl and Charlotte, whom we left there, and proceeded,
at twelve, to General Peel's, the ex-War Secretary.
Fairly fagged out by the day's duties.

iSsg^ Ju/y y. — Dined at Lord John Russell's. Met
the French, Sardinian, Russian, Spanish, and Brazilian
Ministers. Madame Musurus represented Turkey, her
husband still in Paris. Countess Persigny sent an
apology just before we went to dinner. Noticed the re-
ceipt of a telegram by Lord John while at table, which he
handed with imperturbable countenance to D'Azeglio; the
latter became thoughtful and slightly flurried as he read it.

Went at eleven to Lord Clarence Paget's, the new and
aspiring Secretary of the Admiralty. Capital music on
piano, violin, and violoncello. Met Milner Gibson, Sir
T. Cochrane, Lord Wensleydale, etc.

1859. Jufy 8. — The papers announce a key to Lord
John's telegram yesterday, to wit, an armistice agreed
upon between the Emperors of France and Austria,
This is a great event, and may suddenly lead to peace.
It strikes me as singular that Victor Emmanuel is not
named by Louis Napoleon in his message to the Em-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 353

press as a party to the act May it not have been
prompted, as a great popular card, by Lord John Rus-
sell ? It IS, in every public aspect, highly beneficial to
the French cause, and indicates consummate address on
the part of Bonaparte. The funds are rising rapidly;
Consols from ninety-three to near ninety-five.

1859. J^^y 10. — Spent my birthday out of town.

1859. July 12. — The news of the evening is electrify-
ing ! The two Emperors at Villafranca have signed a
peace! Lombardy ceded to France, to be transferred
to Sardinia ; Venetia to be formed into an independent
kingdom for Archduke Maximilian of Austria; the
Pope's territories guaranteed to him. The whole thing
has the rapid and surprising air of a harlequinade.
What is this new, wonderful man contemplating ? His
fleets are numerous and formidable ; they are said to be
rallying, as to a nucleus, at Cherbourg ; his armies can
as promptly be transferred from Italy to the opposite
coasts of the Channel as they were gathered on the
other side of the Alps. England is not completely
ready; does he contemplate an invasion? If he had a
ground for quarrel, however slight, I should be inclined
to that conjecture ; but he has none. To be sure, where
the will exists there is always a way. He has now
probably added Austria to Russia and Piedmont as in-
dissolubly his allies. He returns to Paris by the 15th
inst. He may be received in triumph, and yet the
French press intimates discontent with the armistice.
Let us see what this Aladdin will next attempt. This
little gem set in the silver sea should be rimmed with
sentinels. What if she appeal to the United States in
her extremity? I would reply, ameliorate your civil
institutions by abolishing your mediaeval oligarchy, and

354 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

we will defend you ! We would do it and our people
would like to do it under that condition.

1859. July 14. — A suspicious apprehension that Bona-
parte means mischief is felt in all circles. His address
to his soldiers squints that way. That of the Emperor
of Austria is more avowed, ascribing his yielding to the
necessity of a peace, to the desertion of his " natural
allies." The two principles of despotic and constitu-
tional government are almost face to face.

Went to Lord Derby's in the evening — first, however,
to the two houses of Parliament — accompanied by Gen-
eral Pierce. In the Lords we luckily timed upon a short
debate on foreign affairs in which Granville, Derby,
Brougham, Stratford de Redcliffe, Clanricarde, and
Malmesbury participated. Lord Stratford de RedclifTe
assaulted Count Cavour with fierceness as the promoter
of the revolutionary feelings in Italy, saying that had
he been the Duke of Tuscany he would have ordered
his diplomatic representative, sowing sedition as he did,
hung. Brougham depicted the Peace as a melancholy
illustration of what government, unlimited monarchy,
had at last come to in Europe ; it was not the act of a
Ministry, nor of a Privy Council, nor of diplomatic ad-
visers, but simply the parol arrangement of two men at a
personal interview 1

In the Commons, we heard Lord John Russell for a
short time on the same topic. Both houses spoke under
constraint, trying their best to keep unsaid the harsh
words which the treaty, made in contempt of England
and Prussia, naturally inspired.

At night, at Lord Derby's, nearly all the recent Cabinet
attended, and I had a fair chance to present General
Pierce.

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 355

1859. July 16. — Went to Lord Palmerston*s. A thin
assemblage, ascribable to the extreme heat. Lord Pal-
merston invited me to call at Cambridge House to-morrow
at two, as he wants my ideas respecting the American
claimant to the sovereignty and domain of one of the
Feejee Islands.

1859. J^y ^7' — Went to Cambridge House at two.
Found Lord Palmerston reading a telegram just received
from Lisbon, announcing the sudden death, from angina
pectoris, of the young, handsome, and popular Queen of
Portugal, to whom we paid our respects at Buckingham
Palace on the 8th of May, 1858, when she was on her
way to be married 1

I left with Lord Palmerston copies of two papers
explanatory of the Feejee Islands case to which he had
referred last night. I, also, at his request, gave him
some views as to the colonizing power of the general
government. The Constitution contemplated nothing
of the sort. No act of Congress had created or recog-
nized a colony. Mr. Calhoun, while Secretary of State,
in February, 1845, had asked me what was the relation
of Liberia to the United States, and I had instantly
replied, " None whatever ; it was altogether a private
enterprise." We had talked of getting the Sandwich
Islands ; but they would have entered the Confederacy
as a " new State" or possibly as a " territory." The two
nearest instances were the settlement at Astoria, and the
Guano Island provided for by an act of Congress passed
in the spring of 1856.

1859. /ufy 23. — An invitation came to us to an "at
home" at Strawberry Hill, and we went there to-day at
three. It is about eleven miles from London, at Twick-
enham, on the Thames, not far from Pope's villa. Lady

356 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Waldegrave was not so good looking in the sun-glare
as in the gaslight at the Marquis of Westminster's ; and,
indeed, the whole visit failed to be as pleasant or inter-
esting as I expected. The house has been modernized
by the Countess; and though all its diminutive nooks
and corners are retained, and as much of Horace Wal-
pole as a lady could well relish, yet the walls were fresh
papered, the coloring tone brightened, and many of the
rooms bedizened, especially with portraits of the hour.
After examining everything closely, with the aid of Mr.
Harcourt*s guidance, I came to the unexpressed conclu-
sion that Strawberry Hill contained only two treasures
which I should care to possess : one^ a beautiful portrait
of " Three Ladies de Waldegrave,'* by Reynolds ; not
very handsome in themselves, but exquisitely delineated
as engaged in reeling off a skein of silk or in writing, and
with the perfect representation of aristocratic refinement,
with the old style of powdered, pomatumed pyramid of
hair, and all in white morning dresses ; the other, an old
painting, esteemed a production of the year 1422, and
representing fantastically one of the Kings Henry, with
numerous sons and wife and daughters, with a wounded
flying dragon, and angels holding up the tops of rich tents !
The Belgian and I were the only members of the Diplo-
matic Corps present. I had an agreeable conversation
with Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who drew my attention
to the awkward boyishness of the young Duke de
Chartres, just arrived from the Italian war: his head
had undergone the close shaving of military discipline,
which prompted Lord Stratford to say that it had been
nothing but close shaving the whole campaign ! This
led to many comments upon the extraordinary spectacle
presented at the peace-patching breakfast of Villafranca :

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 357

a scene which I characterized as bringing back upon
modern Europe the mediaeval barbarism which allowed
bold barons to distribute vassals and domains as suited
their fancy. The Count of Paris, Duke d'Aumale, and
his lively Duchess, the Clarendons, Wensleydales, were
among the company. There were roomy tents on the
green for dancing and refreshments. I strolled round
the grounds to catch an exterior view of the house and
its site, neither of which struck me as remarkable.
While rambling, I came upon a party of guests engaged
in the game of " Aunt Sally" !

1859. J^y 26. — Went in the evening to the opera at
Covent Garden Theatre. It was the first performance
of Meyerbeer's new work, " Dinorah, or the Pardon of
Ploermel." The house was brilliant with fashion and
crowded. The music did honour to the veteran Maestro,
who was called upon the stage and loudly applauded
several times. Madame Miolan Carvalho was the prima,
and sang, as well as acted, with extraordinary skill,
power, and beauty. Her figure is rather undersized, but
her face expressive and handsome.

1859. July 27. — Our reception thinned by heat Went
to Sydney Herbert's at eleven o'clock. A brilliant re-
union. Asked Baron Cetto to present me to the Duke
d'Aumale, as the Duchess has invited us to Orleans
House on Monday next. He intimated his gratification
at a remark I had made in my table speech on the 4th
of July last, respecting American gratitude to France for
revolutionary aid; spoke of the kindness his father and
brother Joinville had experienced on their visits to the
United States. I mentioned my having been presented
to Louis Philippe in 1839, on my return from Russia.
So we got on very well.

3i»

3S8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

1859. J^h 28. — Lord John Russell's exposition in the
House this afternoon, on the peace of Villafranca, wanted
distinctness and energy. The audacity of Louis Napoleon
seems to cow all others. He appears to have palmed
upon his younger Imperial brother, at their famous
breakfast in the House Morreli, as proof of the harsh
terms which Russia, Prussia, and England were jointly
prepared to impose upon Francis Joseph, a memorandum
which originated in his own Bureau of Foreign Affairs
at Paris, passed to the Embassy here, and which Persigny
had the dexterity to get Lord John Russell, merely as an
intermediary, to send to Count D'Apponyi ! This may
be called, without misnomer, cheating by false pretences
or tokens. No wonder Louis Napoleon excluded third
persons from the interview. Had old Hess, or other
Austrians in possession of common sense, been present,
he might have asked the awkward but simple question,
how his Imperial Majesty had ascertained the memoran-
dum of conditions to be agreed upon by the neutral
powers? Francis Joseph's credulity is loyal, almost
honourable, but it victimized him.

In the evening, rather late at night, went to Mr. Thomas
Baring's to meet " The Art Club." This club seems to
me, like many others of the sort in England, a mere
plausible screen for periodical dinners. The collection
of knick-knacks was exhibited on tables running down
the centre of the Pictu re-Gallery. Some ancient dishes
of Dresden ware, one of which was estimated as worth
;^6oo, or ^3000; much antique jewelry and bronze;
carvings of various descriptions on ivory; and many
little curious articles, doubtless gloated over by antiqua-
ries, all pretty, and all the prettier because of Mr. Baring's
capital entertainment! Among the most successful of

j4T the court of ST, JAMES, 359

the collectors on this occasion was a Mr. Barker, who,
according to the account given of him to me by Sir
David Dundas, was not unlike Mr. Everett's Thomas
Dowse, having been a bootmaker and devoted to the
accumulation of rare and pretty things. Had the Club
assembled at the Marquis of Salisbury's or the Marquis
of Westminster's, we should probably have had a deluge
of dilettante Peers ; but Mr. Baring is not of the order,
and so we were indulged with a sprinkling only. Lords
Lansdowne and Lyveden, Mr. Winthrop, Mr. Balch, Mr.
Motley, and Mr. Cropsey were there.

Sat for an hour this morning before Church's *' Heart
of the Andes." The person in attendance said that
Lansdowne had called it a wonderful picture, and Stan-
ley, who some years ago crossed the South American
Cordilleras, had characterized it as a faithful portrait. I
am no enthusiast, and very little of a connoisseur, but I
can sink into the scenery of this painting with absorbed
delight.

1859. July 29. — My weekly day of labour, exclusively
devoted to preparing the despatch-bag for home.

Took Mr. Winthrop to the House of Lords in the
evening. A neat, short debate on the proposition intro-
duced by Lord Ebury for a commission to amend the
Liturgy. Why can't they, as we have, drop the Atha-
nasian Creed ? It is as savagely fulminatory as Pius the
Ninth's last manifesto. The Archbishop of Canterbury,
the Bishop of London, Lord Brougham, Lord IJun-
gannon. Lord Redesdale, and, of course, Lord Ebury,
spoke on the occasion. So did the Duke of Newcastle,
who protested against Brougham's doctrine of leaving
the subject exclusively to the clergy. The laity were
deeply interested. I heard the Bishop of London for

360 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the first time, and was struck by the clear, tranquil,
argumentative, and impressive tone of his eloquence.
The matter was dismissed to next session of Parliament

1859. July 30. — Sir Henry Holland called casually.
He startled me by immediately commenting upon the ap-
pearance of my eyes. My friend John Y. Mason once
told me that he saw in my eyes unmistakable symptoms
of a disease against which his own father had struggled
for years, but which finally mastered and killed him.
Well! precaution is right, and death, some time or
other, for some cause or other, quite inevitable.

The concluding article in the last Quarterly Review^
headed "The Invasion of England," breathes alarm,
despondency, almost despair. There is yet a vast deal
of common sense in its treatment of the essentially mili-
tary spirit of France, of the exaltation given by the
Italian battles to the aspirations of Louis Napoleon, of
his consistent and constant warnings, in his early and
latest givings out, that he was the destined avenger of
St. Helena, of his vast naval preparations, and, what is
worse, of the unprepared condition of England either on
land or at sea. The case is one of judicial blindness in the
Whigs and Liberals. The catastrophe is awful to con-
template ; but who can say, as he casts his eye along the
bloody tracks of England round the earth, that it will
not be the decree of a just Providence? Nations may,
like individuals, be weighed in the balance, found want-
ing, and doomed at the moment of ostentatious self-
eulogy.

1859. August I. — Earl of Minto, father of Lady John
Russell, died yesterday. He was a useful adjunct or
subordinate in public life, but not much per se. He
undertook an interesting mission to Rome, at a time

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 361

when Pius the Ninth was liberally inclined, and bungled
dreadfully in it.

Went at four p.m. to Orleans House, at Twickenham.
Near here, at Claremont, it was that Louis Philippe
closed his life. It is now the residence of his remaining
family, particularly of the Duke and Duchess d*Aumale,
Duke de Chartres, and Count de Paris. Its locale is
beautiful, with the Thames in front, and a well-arranged
park. The distance from London is ten miles. The
company was numerous, but never appeared so, because
much scattered through the grounds. Met Lord Strat-
ford de Redcliffe, Monckton Milnes, Panizzi, Earl Powys,
Tricoupi, Mr. Byng, Motley, etc. The Duke is pre-
possessing in look and manner, is thirty-seven years of
age, and appears even younger. The King's widow,
Amelie, is still living at Claremont, aged seventy-seven.
Two noble busts of Conde and Turenne in the gallery
of Orleans House.

1859. -August 2. — Weat in the evening to the Duchess
of Inverness's, at Kensington Palace. A gay and bril-
liant dancing party. The Duke and Duchess d'Aumale
were doubtless its object. I had considerable conversa-
tion with the Pretender to the throne of France, Count
of Paris, and found him a plain, unaffected young man.
He was born on the 24th of August, 1838, and lacks,
therefore, three weeks of being of age. He is the son of
Louis Philippe's eldest, prince royal, who died in 1842,
and is the one in whose favour his grandfather abdicated
in 1848. The Duke de Chartres is his younger brother.
He expressed a hope that the name of his family was
not unpopular in the United States, and recurred to the
visits paid to us by Louis Philippe and his uncle Joinville.
He has a lisp, or, more properly, a labial twist, which

362 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

occasionally makes his utterance, at least in the English
language, indistinct. Met here Lord Chancellor Camp-
bell, Earl Stratford de Redcliffe, Lord Hanover (late Sir
Benjamin Hall), the Sardinian Minister, the Hanse
Towns, the Bavarian, etc.

1859. August 6. — Mr. Geo. W. Biddle, Mr. Joseph A.
Clay, and Mr. Junkin, members of the bar of Philadel-
phia, dined with us to-day, yielding most welcome chat
about the changes and improvements at home. Mr.
Meredith's physical condition is very sad.

1859. August 13. — Parliament was prorogued this
afternoon by Lords Commissioners to October 27 next.
London has been getting dull these ten days ; it will
now soon be cheerless. We are meditating a trip to
Brighton, and a stay of five or six weeks.

1859. August 14. — The sad, though expected, news of
Mr. Richard Rush's death reached us this morning. He
was seventy-nine. His was a well-balanced, painstaking,
polished mind. He idolized my father, and thence was
always partial to me. Until within a year or two he has
been hardly tried by scanty means. He was a faithful
and affectionate husband and father.

1859. August 20. — Bonaparte has issued a decree,
dated i6th inst, amnestying all political offences, and
restoring all Frenchmen to their country. This embraces
V. Hugo, Louis Blanc, Lamoriciere, and Changarnier,
and a thousand others. In a letter published in the
Times of yesterday, Louis Blanc rejects the " pardon,"
and prefers freedom in England to slavery in France.
A subsequent decree annuls all warnings or "aver-
tissements" given to newspapers: regarded as an ap-
proach to the reinstatement of a certain amount of the
liberty of the press. These are acts calculated to

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 363

conciliate popularity for a tremendous military des-
potism.

On the 17th inst., Mr. Cobden had a soiree at Roch-
dale, and on the i8th met his constituents for the first
time since his election to Parliament. He was chosen
while yet absent on a visit to the United States. He has
delivered two capital speeches, — ^the first on the corrup-
tion at elections and on Foreign Affairs, the second
almost exclusively on Reform. In the former, he gave
his reasons for declining the Presidency of the Board of
Trade when offered by Lord Palmerston ; and these rea-
sons, purely personal to himself, are stated in language
and tone so frank and conciliatory that one can't help
feeling that he will be in the Cabinet before the year is
out.

1859. October 9. — After a hiatus of nearly two months,
I resume the journal. It is well to begin by recalling
some incidents and dates which I do not wish to forget.

On the 24th of August, the family went to Brighton,
in which beautiful city I had engaged a house, at seven
guineas a week, for four weeks, being No. i, Portland
Place, on the Marine Parade. The frontage on the sea is
finer than anything I have ever seen. The town struck
us as singularly clean. The Esplanade, the Parade, the
bathing beach, the pier, the Pavilion, and several churches,
very handsome. We visited and were delighted with
the DeviFs Dyke, a strange but apparently natural exca-
vation about five miles to the west, and from the summit
of the hill adjoining, on which stands the inn, we wit-
nessed a vastly extensive prospect. The Downs in the
neighborhood were resources for exercise, and afforded
picturesque views without number.

On the 2 1 St of September we returned to London.

364 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Our home had been freshened and furbished in our ab-
sence, and certain repairs in drainage accomplished which
had been much wanted.

Mr. John Y. Mason died in Paris on the morning of
October 3d. His body is to be sent to the family vault
in Virginia ; a funeral service was performed over it, at
which an immense concourse of Americans attended,
and whose solemnity was greatly increased by the pres-
ence in procession of a large body of troops contributed
by the Imperial authorities.

It was during our stay at Brighton, and while we were
hourly looking out to see the Great Eastern on her way
past us to Portland, that she exploded most destruc-
tively one of her flues, off the town of Hastings.

I have waited impatiently for instructions on the course
to be taken about General Harney's military occupation
of San Juan in July last, and only received yesterday a
partial statement from General Cass. It is obvious that
there exists no intention to allow my participating in the
negotiation.

1859. October 10. — ^The murder of Colonel Aviti by
the mob at Parma, on the 6th inst., is a most unfortunate
as well as criminal act; for it is the first piece of violence
which the revolution has committed, and it may produce
general alarm. Thus it is that a great national cause is
sometimes cruelly injured by the intemperance of those
on whose behalf chiefly it is agitated.

1859. October 17. — Mr. Robert Stephenson, the dis-
tinguished engineer, died on Wednesday last, and is to
be buried in Westminster Abbey.

The reply of Napoleon the Third to the address of
the Cardinal Archbishop of Bordeaux, which indicates a
determination to withdraw all protection from the Pope

AT THfL COURT OF ST, JAMES, 365

unless he agrees to administrative reforms, is producing
great excitement, and has been followed up by an " in-
vitation " to the newspapers not to publish any more of
the inflammatory " pastorals " of the Bishops. A relig-
ious opposition party in France cannot but be dangerous
to the Dynasty.

Sir Henry Holland returned yesterday from his visit
to the United States. He was absent exactly eight
weeks. Went first to Canada, and travelled three hun-
dred miles up the Ottawa River. Thence proceeded as
far south as Charleston. Was at Washington five days,
staying with the President at the Soldiers* Home. He
is warm in eulogy of General Cass. The President had
read to him his instructions to General Scott and his
reproof of General Harney!

1859. October 24. — The weather is becoming uncom-
fortably cold. A smart frost last night. There were
Cabinet and Privy Councils every day last week, a de-
gree of activity suggesting the probability of internal
dissension. It is diflficult, indeed, to see how, on the
indispensable measure of Parliamentary reform, such
inveterate adherents to rotten boroughs as Lord Pal-
merston and Mr. Gladstone can harmonize with Milner
Gibson, Lord Clarence Paget, Charles Villiers, and other
colleagues. The Irish Prelates, too, in their efforts
against the national educational system, are backed by a
large body of the Irish members of the House, and the
policy adopted on this question, if not most carefully
considered, may endanger the government. Still, there
is ample explanation of these conferences in the unset-
tled and somewhat menacing condition of continental
politics.

During last week, Count Colloredo, the representative

366 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

of Austria at Zurich, had his second and probably his
fatal blow of apoplexy.

The telegram of this morning announces the declara-
tion of war, on the 22d of this month, by Spain against
Morocco. The declaration appears to have consisted of
an executive or ministerial communication to the Cortes,
to that effect. Nothing can be more obvious than that
this movement is impelled by the policy, the far-reaching
and still secret policy, of Louis Napoleon. It must lead
to a breach with England, who cannot bear the idea of
seeing the Mediterranean converted into a French lake,
nor the Rock of Gibraltar endangered. A breach he
wants, and will have, as soon as his naval armada is
complete.

What is it that has prevented the access of Prince Na-
poleon to the Queen ? He has been in England for a
week ; his coming was preluded by the announcement in
the public journals that he meditated meeting her Maj-
esty when she made her visit to the Great Eastern at
Holyhead. Her Majesty abstained from this visit, and
he has returned to Paris, ignored by British royalty.
Rather odd as between the dear allies !

In burying Mr. Robert Stephenson, the body was ad-
mitted by a small back door, it being proclaimed that
the great entrance on such occasions was opened only to
royalty and nobility! Thus even in death the ruling
passion is fed.

1859. October 29. — Mr. R. Schleiden, the diplomatic
representative of the republic of Bremen at Washington,
is on his return to his post, after an absence of six
months, and called to-day. He tells me that he has
made it a point, while visiting a number of the Conti-
nental Courts, to ascertain from the most enlightened

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 367

public men the opinion existing as to the proper course
for the United States to pursue in reference to the occu-
pation of San Juan by Harney ; and that there was but
one sentiment on the subject, namely, that the American
government, disclaiming and condemning the act as it
does, should restore the status ante. Stay till they see
the peremptory and presumptuous letter of Lord John
Russell to Lord Lyons, of the 24th of August last,
written before the proceeding of General Harney was
known, and in which the determination to have the
island at every cost is expressed. When that is carefully
considered, the United States may well regard it as a
defiance of all investigation, compromise, and um-
pirage, and a justification for not restoring the status
quo, but keeping what they have, at least in joint occu-
pancy.

Donald McKay, the shipwright, also called. He has
been remonstrating at Lloyds against an exclusion of
American-built ships from their insurance classifications.
It was asserted they were thoroughly examined and
found wanting in strength and durability. The truth,
however, is that the exclusion is founded on the desire
to discriminate in favour of British bottoms. He prom-
ises to write and print a pamphlet to disprove the pre-
tence. He instanced a particular vessel classed as A.
No. I ; and asked why the exception? they replied that
she was owned by English merchants. " Yes," said
Donald, ''that's true; but she was built by me, and is
certainly not as strong as many a ship I have already
built and can still build." The Directors were called
together, and Donald was dreadfully outvoted !

Mr. Bates came in. He told me that when the Treaty
of 1846 was negotiating, he was constantly conversing

368 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

upon the subject with Lord Aberdeen or Mr. McLane ;
that there was but one channel contemplated as the
boundary, that of the Haro ; that such was the view of
both these gentlemen and himself; he added, besides,
you deflected from the forty-ninth parallel only to let us
have the whole of Vancouver's Island, with that excep-
tion there was to be no deflection.

1859. November 3. — A European Congress would
seem to be finally agreed upon. The Emperor has ad-
dressed to King Victor Emmanuel, under date of the 20th
of October last (the day after the signature of the treaty
at Zurich), a vigorous letter which discloses his intended
course of policy as to Italian aflairs, and calls upon his
" brother" to follow suit. It may be regarded as a pro-
gramme of proceedings at the Congress. It amounts
to stern intervention in the settlement of matters in the
Peninsula, the restoration of the Duke of Tuscany, the
translation of the Duchess of Parma to Modena, the
establishment of the Confederation presided by the Pope,
etc. Will England assist in this by her presence at the
Congress ? I think her fears of invasion, combined with
the subserviency of her present statesmen to her great
military ally, will lead her to do so. He is joining his
forces with hers in the new expedition to revenge the
disaster at the mouth of the Pei-Ho ; and yet he is egging
on Spain to invade Morocco, both with munitions of war
and money ; he is openly encouraging Lesseps to hold
on to his project of a canal at the Isthmus of Suez, and
he is about to establish a French naval station in the
Red Sea ! Should England have her Plenipotentiary at
the Congress, he will either compel her to the humiliat-
ing course of surrendering her principles and sympathies
as to Italy, or he will force a quarrel upon her in which

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 369

she will be almost isolated, and then his ultimate plan of
invasion will be ready for execution.

The Greek Minister called, and we had a long chat.
He represents Turkey to be in a bad way. She has for
three years in succession evaded her engagement with
Greece to suppress the brigandage in Albania; she first
has not troops ready, then she requires barracks for them,
and again her finances are disordered. This last excuse
Tricoupi thinks is the secret of the business, and he con-
siders the emptiness of the treasury ascribable solely to
the wanton extravagance of the Sultan. In the course
of conversation he remarked that there was less cordi-
ality than usual between the Foreign Office and the
French Ambassador ; Persigny seemed restless and was
unwilling to remain in London.

The alleged insurrection and seizure of the Arsenal
at Harper's Ferry, of which we received an imperfect
account last week, remains still a source of anxiety.

Several fatal storms have recently caused many disas-
ters on the coasts; one of them wrecked the Royal
Charter from Australia with a host of passengers on
board, and nearly did the same for the Great Eastern
riding near the Breakwater at Holyhead. The Channel
fleet, too, was in great danger off the Scilly Light, and
was only saved by consummate old English seamanship.

1859. November 5. — General Cass's despatch to me,
answering the one written by Lord John Russell on the
24th of August last to Lord Lyons, is masterly and
conclusive. But all such papers only make more obsti-
nate the controversialists, I am sometimes inclined to
think that where people do not really wish to fight they
should proscribe the pen, and confine their interchange
of views exclusively to conversation. Lord John will

32*

370 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

fume mightily. As to being convinced by the resistless
reasoning, what angry man ever was ? or, rather, if he
inwardly felt conviction, would he not the more violently
disclaim it? This argument, unless I can manage to
give it a safer direction and character, will be protracted
from year to year, its bitterness augmenting with every
fresh elaborate paper pellet, until the two nations will
be brought to war for a patch of valueless earth some-
where in the moon.

1859. November 12. — A long interview at the Foreign
Office, — specially as to our title to San Juan. I denom-
inate the idea of returning back after following the forty-
ninth parallel to middle of channel as an absurdity not
justly imputable to the negotiation.

1859. November 25. — Went last night to the Russian
Embassy. The new Persian Minister there. A small but
agreeable party. Lord John talked to me freely about
Scott and Harney. Lady William Russell, recently
from Rome, said she k7iew Garibaldi had been invited
by Louis Napoleon to Compiegne. All through Italy
the people were in the habit of saying, " Oh, if we
could only find a Washington!" Thus feir Garibaldi
has shown much of that texture, and yet he has found
it necessary to throw up his military commission. He
and Fanti perhaps did not agree. It is said Bonaparte re-
quired Victor Emmanuel to dismiss him, as a preliminary
to the recognition of Buoncompagni's Regency. Sir G.
Grey, Lord and Lady Wodehouse, Mr. Tricoupi, Mr.
Riicker, the new Neapolitan Minister, and his pretty wife,
Marquis D'Azeglio, and Baron Stieglitz (le jeune) were
also at Brunow's.

1859. December i. — A singularly luxurious dinner at
the Russian Embassy. Every dish was new and exqui-

j4T the court of ST JAMES, 37 1

site. Mrs. Dallas and I decide that Baron Brunow must
have enlisted the cook of Count Nesselrode, whose pro-
ductions we so well remember. To-day the company
exclusively diplomatic: Brunow and Baronne Cetto,
Mme. Brunow and Musurus, Cetto and Mrs. Dallas,
I and Miss Tricoupi, Von Dorkum and Miss Dallas,
coteries, secretaries and attaches. In the evening, up-
stairs, a larger number, — French Ambassador, Bernstorff
and Countess, Sir Roderick Murchison, the fresh Per-
sians, etc.

1859. December 3. — First "at home" at Cambridge
House. Lord Palmerston looks fagged and older; but
his personal appearance is very changeable. A much
larger company than could have been expected at this
season. In tact Lady Palmerston is unrivalled. I chat-
ted principally with the Duchesses Argyll and Som-
erset, and Milner Gibson. The Duchess of Argyll re-
quested me to send such of the printed proceedings of
the Harper's Ferry trials as I had, and she would then
be able to judge whether I was impartial in speaking of
them as conducted with dignity, fairness, and humanity."
She is her mother's daughter, and probably ardently
" Uncle Tom ;" but much more attractive and rational
than the Duchess of Sutherland. Without concealing
her own anti-slavery opinions, and certainly without
maintaining them by a look or word disagreeably, the
Duchess manifested a rare acquaintance with the present
features of our home politics. Talked to Delane, of the
Times ; asked me if I had anything new from the north-
west. " Nothing, except by the newspapers." " What!
you read newspapers ?" ** Certainly. I get all my knowl-
edge and ideas from them, square myself by every new
view they take, have faith in them as unerring!" "I

372 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

wish," said he, " that Harney was dead !" " Not quite just
or benevolent/' I replied. " Harney is a gallant soldier;
exhibited bravery and skill in our Mexican war; may
have been indiscreet, and laid himself open to reprimand
for suddenly breeding a quarrel between two nations ;
but," I continued, preparing to leave my arrow in the
buirs-eye, " if he has done a thoughtless thing, he is no
filibuster, and they who speak and write of him as an
'American filibuster' do him no harm, but raise the
character of the filibuster." The justice of the remark
gave it point: it was allowed to close the conversa-
tion.

1859. December 5. — Receiving a telegram from Ports-
mouth that a violent mutiny had broken out on board
the Sea-Serpent, a large ship belonging to Grinnell &
Minturn, of New York, which had recently left London
for Hong Kong, and was brought to anchor off Spithead
by bad weather, I immediately wrote to Lord John
Russell, requesting the Admiralty to authorize Admiral
Bowles to assist the civil power in suppressing the
outbreak. To-day I have the written assurance that
Admiral Bowles has been empowered to act, and will
employ her Majesty's ship Fawn for the purpose. The
rebellious crew are thirty strong. If they are country-
men of mine and have been ill-treated and oppressed,
they will resist, especially if English marines are used.
Hence my anxiety.

1859. December 6. — Consul Thompson and Captain
Whitmore are full of thanks. The mutiny was thor-
oughly quelled, without an act of violence or bloodshed.
The crew, it appears, were shipped here, one or two only
being American. The ship will sail for China, all right,
to-morrow.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 373

1859. December 8. — Had a visit from Mr. Louis Kos-
suth, the first time since I came to England. He is
more interesting now than ever. Much subdued, obvi-
ously by poverty and disappointment, but still the pol-
ished gentleman who is unable to repress his oratorical
speech and gesture. Beard and head tinged with gray.
His dress full black and irreproachably genteel. His
eye bright and expressive when speaking, at other mo-
ments rather dull, small, and dejected. He has asked
me a favour on behalf of his distinguished countryman.
General Vetter, who goes to Turin in the course of three
or four days, and if I find I can properly grant it he
shall be gratified, notwithstanding his loan-notes and
muskets. The man, whatever faults may be charged to
him, is unquestionably a devoted patriot, and patriotism
is honoured all the world over.

Went to-night to the Lord Chancellor's. Met a small
company, of no interest except the one arising out of
the presence of the very Rev. Dr. R. C. Trench, Dean
of Westminster Abbey, whose acute books on " Words"
have often delighted me. The Lord Chancellor's soiree
quite overshadowed by one at the Russian Minister's.

1859. December 11. — The fog is so dense and dark
that I have had to use lighted candles all day while
writing or reading.

Sir H. Holland chatted a half-hour. He tells me,
though he disclaims official authority for it, that Lord
Wodehouse will go to the Congress with Lord Cowley.
We agree that it may be part of the policy of the Cabi-
net here to treat the Congress with indifference.

1859. December 18. — Forty or fifty thousand persons
— men, women, and children — availing themselves of the
fine skating and sliding upon the Serpentine and the

374 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Park lakes. The thermometer lower than has been
known for a series of years.

1859. December 22. — An extraordinary manifesto
comes from Paris. It professes to be, under the head-
ing of " Le Pape et le Congres," a political essay, signed
by M. de la Gueronniere, the same writer who fathered the
pamphlet of " Napoleon III et Tltalie," at the beginning
of this year. No one doubts that both brochures are
substantially revelations of the Imperial policy. This
one removes much of the uncertainty which has pre-
vailed for three months past as to the real views of
Bonaparte respecting the Dukes, the Romagnese, and
the Pontiff. No force to restore the first, nor to compel
the second to return to their allegiance to Pius IX. ; and,
as to the temporal power of the Holy Father, he is to
be left a full sovereign, with a splendid court, abundant
revenues from the Catholic States, the wonders of art,
the precious relics, the Vatican, and magnificent cere-
monials, all limited, however, to the municipal bounda-
ries of the Eternal City! This is an elaboration of
About's idea: "for the Pope, Rome and a garden."
Mother Church must through all her universal ramifica-
tions tremble with indignation at this disposition of the
Infallible. If Louis Napoleon wears no cuirass, he had
better regard every approaching priest as a Ravaillac.

1859. December 24. — Went to the National Gallery
and spent some time before the three paintings recently
there: i. The z^ltar-piece of the Chapel of Rabecchino,
by Ambrogio Borgognone, representing the marriage of
St. Catherine of Alexandria ; several entire figures as
large as life ; the Saviour in an attitude somewhat harsh ;
four panels to the right and left of the principal picture
are filled each with a saint; the work dates 1490 and

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 375

1522. 2. Two elaborate landscapes by Ruysdael ;
waterfalls, fine trees, and in each centre a rickety bridge
from bank to bank.

1859. December- 2C), — Macaulay, the historian, essayist,
orator, and poet, died yesterday at his house at Camp-
den Hill, two miles out of London. He was born in
1800, therefore but fifty-nine years old; was raised to
the peerage, avowedly for literary ability, since I have
been here, some time in 1857. I have met him often,
and was always pleased with his cordiality, and struck
with the quick fulness of his conversation.

i860. January 2. — On this day week Macaulay will
be interred in Westminster Abbey, Poets' Corner. It
is said that he has left his copyrights to his niece, who
married a son of Sir Hehry Holland.

i860. January 6. — The French Emperor has accepted
the resignation of his Minister of Foreign Affairs,
Walewski. This is universally considered a decisive
•' coup** as to the Italian policy. The Moniteur of yes-
terday contained the decree and the appointment of
Thouvenel as successor, — Baroche, ad interim. How
completely Louis Napoleon has made himself the centre
of European attraction and repulsion I

Went this evening to the Duchess of Inverness's. A
young dancing party. Had a long and interesting
chat with the Lord Chancellor. He spoke of the
kind manner in which his books were treated by my
countrymen. I told him that no American gentleman
failed to have a copy of his " Lives of the Chancellors
and Chief Justices."

i860. January 8. — Returned late to-night from Mr.
Bates's (Sheen), whither Mrs. Dallas and Sophie accom-
panied me to dinner yesterday. Met there the interest-

376 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

ing family of poor Leslie the painter, his widow, daugh-
ter, and son, still in deep mourning. Also Dr. Owen, with
his wife and son. The great naturalist was more than
usually interesting. He described to fne with lively elo-
quence his having just received the first specimen that
ever reached Europe from Madagascar of the Aye- Aye.
He pronounced it of the monkey tribe, and not, as com-
monly stated, of the rat genus.

i860. January 9. — Philip attended the burial of Ma-
caulay to-day in Poets' Corner. He describes the
cold and rankness as being extremely uncomfortable.
The pall-bearers were Lord Chancellor Campbell, Earl
Shelburne, Earl Stanhope, Sir Henry Holland, Lord
John Russell, Duke of Argyll, Exrl of Carlisle, Bishop
of Oxford, Sir David Dundas, and Dr. Milman. In-
scription on coffin : " The Right Honourable Thomas
Babington Macaulay, Baron Macaulay of Rothley.
Born 25th Oct., 1800; died 28th Dec, 1859."

l%6o, Ja?tuary 11. — The President's Message appears
in full in all the morning papers. There are many
admirable passages in it. I. The salutary effect of
Brown's foray is announced confidently. 2. So, too, the
decision of the Supreme Court in the Dred Scott case
is announced as settling ** irrevocably" the question of
slavery in the Territories. 3. A capital transfer of all
responsibility for the continuance of the trade is made to
England in the quiet remark that Cuba is the " only spot
on earth" where it is tolerated, and " this in defiance of
treaties with a power abundantly able at any moment
to enforce their execution." 4. Harney is generously
treated. His grounds of action are stated from his report
to Scott, and he is called the "gallant general." 5. As
to the Island itself, the President emphatically says he

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 377

"entertains no doubt of the validity of our title." 6.
The rapid recovery of the finances is clearly sketched,
as is, in opening, the " special favour of Divine Provi-
dence" in the continued prosperity of the Republic. All
the views are judicious and sound about this country,
Mexico, and China. An only exception is in the case of
Spain, whose filibustering against Morocco I should have
been pleased to see held up as an example not unworthy
of being followed. Another passage, though eminently
just, wherein the Message is speaking of the power of
public opinion to arrest the dangerous progress of abo-
litionism, is perhaps misplaced in an Executive document
addressed to Congress, and coming from high official
place may awaken the cry of persecution, and defeat its
own purpose.

i860. January 15. — At an interview with Sir George
C. Lewis at the Home Office, I yesterday commenced a
project the success of which I have much at heart, that
of a Consular Convention. This government is gradu-
ally perceiving that the cruelties committed on board of
American vessels bound to England are in reality en-
couraged by the facility with which our seamen are
enabled to avoid recapture on desertion, and to escape
the punishment of crimes on the high seas. Mr.
Buchanan in vain tried to remedy the mischief in nego-
tiating with Lord Clarendon. I think Sir George Lewis
sees the subject in its true light, and won't allow himself
to be overruled, as his Lordship was, by the technicalities
of Sir Richard Bethel.

i860. January 20. — Count Persigny called and sat a
half-hour. Experience led me to suspect at once that
his purpose was to eulogize and develop his Emperor's
scheme, of free trade as conveyed to Mr. Achille Fould

378 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

in a sort of disquisition printed in the Moniteur of 15th
inst, and so it turned out. But he went farther than I
could have expected, and claimed the whole movement
as having originated with himself. He had elaborated all
the details, had urged them upon his Majesty for five years,
had enlisted the co-operation of Monsieur Chevallier;
and his exultation might be imagined. England was a
wise and generous nation, and France, now devoted to
peace, progress, and internal improvement, would be
more closely cemented to her than ever. Their manu-
facturing classes and the iron-masters would complain
and resist ; but they were rascally vampires, sucking the
blood of the people, and would have no power to arrest
the policy. As soon as the Count had poured out what
it was obvious he was determined to say, I ventured to
compliment him for the great public service he had ren-
dered, and explained, to his surprise, the particular reason
why I personally sympathized with the proceeding.

i860. January 23. — The new Treaty of Commerce
between this country and France was signed this after-
noon by the Plenipotentiaries in Paris. This fact was
communicated to me by the Lord Chancellor, whom I
met at Lady Palmerston's. It is Louis Napoleon's first
decisive step towards Free Trade, and the English are
very proud of their convert.

i860. January 24. — The Queen's speech, on opening
Parliament to-day, was more interesting than usual. It
leaves the Congress — nowhere. It goes the full figure for
the right of the Italians to choose their own government.
It rather implies a silent undercurrent of pacific intentions
as to China, notwithstanding the armaments here and in
France. It anticipates a commercial treaty with France,
which is, in fact, free trade policy for the latter. As to

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 379

the United States, we have so long been weaned of any
notion that a royal address would condescend to notice
us unless we are at war with the sovereign, that I was
surprised with the following paragraph : " An unauthor-
ized proceeding by an officer of the United States in
regard to the Island of San Juan might have led to a
serious collision between my forces and those of the
United States. Such collision, however, has been pre-
vented by the judicious forbearance of my naval and
civil officers on the spot, and by the equitable and concil-
iatory provisional arrangement proposed on this matter
by the government of the United States." — Spectator,
January 28, i860.

i860. January 26. — Dined with Lord John Russell.
Bernstorff, Lavradio, Lord Minto, Mr. Ashley (son of
Lord Shaftesbury), a Mr. Russell, Countess Bernstorff,
Mrs. Dallas, Lady John and Misses Russell composed
the party. A poor dinner and intolerably dull. I was,
however, rewarded by a long chat with mine host when
we got to coffee, up-stairs.

i860. January 27. — Went to the House of Commons
to hear Monckton Milnes interpellate Lord John Russell
as to what the government had done, since the adjourn-
ment, upon the subject of the address voted to the Queen
respecting the cruelties practised on board merchantmen
on the high seas. Rather awkward to find myself alone
in the diplomatic gallery listening to the following (7i/«^^
January 28, i860):

" Lord John Russell said he presumed it was not ex-
pected he should go into a detailed explanation of the state
of Italy, but, with respect to the question of the honour-
able member, he did not believe there was any truth in
the statement that thirty thousand French troops were

380 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

expected at Leghorn, and certainly he had no reason to
believe that the French government would take any such
step for the purpose of preventing the annexation of the
central provinces to Sardinia. On the contrary, he consid-
ered such a statement highly improbable. His honourable
friend (Mr. Monckton Milnes) had asked a question of
great interest and importance, with regard to which the
House agreed to an address last year. When that ad-
dress was brought to him, he immediately communicated
with his right honourable friend, the Secretary of State
for the Home Department, who was of opinion that it
would be of advantage if an experienced lawyer of the
United States were sent over, and negotiations conducted
here. He wrote accordingly to Lord Lyons on the
subject, and received an answer that, in the opinion of
the American government, negotiations could not be
intrusted to better hands than those of the able and
enlightened representative of the United States in this
country, Mr. Dallas. His right honourable friend had
since had an interview with Mr. Dallas. They, as well
as every man in that House, and, no doubt, every man
in America, were anxious that some remedy should be
found for a state of things which must be shocking to
humanity. They were agreed upon the principle upon
which the remedy ought to be applied, and were now en-
gaged in drawing up the draught of a convention for the
purpose of applying it. It would be premature to state now
the principle of the convention, but when it was ratified,
no time would be lost in bringing in a bill with the view
of attaining an object which all must desire."

i860. January 30. — Met Lord Elgin while walking in
Regent Street. Congratulated him on having such a
skilful as well as honest chronicler as Laurence Oliphant

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 381

He was surprised that I had already read the book. He
expressed himself greatly distressed at what had occurred
in China since he left there. Whether this distress was
at the defeat of the Allies off the Pei-Ho forts, or at the
folly of his brother, Mr. Bruce, in provoking that con-
test, was not apparent.

i860. February i. — A long and interesting visit from
Sir John Bowring yesterday. He is obviously an able
and well-informed man, but, I suspect, one of quick
temper and doubtful judgment.

The letter addressed by the Pope to the Cardinals,
Bishops, etc., of the Roman Church, taking a decided
attitude against the policy and proposals of the " mighty*
and ''serene'* Emperor, opens a long vista of serious
consequences. It bears date the 19th of January, i860.
One of its first effects is seen in the suppression of the
devoted Papal journal, tUnivers, edited by Veuillot; an
act clearly justified by a clause of the French constitu-
tion prohibiting the reception or publication of addresses
from the Holy Father without assent of government.
LUnivers had contained it. Napoleon appeals to the
historical loyalty of the Gallican Church, and he may
not appeal in vain.

Dined to-day with the Duke of Argyll and his really
beautiful and intelligent Duchess. There was a com-
pany of about fourteen, of whom four were ladies. Mr.
Thackeray was at table. So also a clergyman, son of
Sir John Sinclair, a correspondent of General Washing-
ton, with whom I had a long talk when we went to
coffee, and who, in recounting his experiences on visiting
the United States, made a complete higgledy-piggledy
of dates and great men. On meeting Thackeray, I said,
gravely and warmly, too, " I feel much obliged to you !"

33*

382 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

He gazed at me for a moment, as if he expected a
reproof for something, and then, suddenly recollecting
himself, smiled and replied, *' Oh ! Ah ! you mean
Irving ?" " I do." " Written from the bottom of my
heart." He never wrote a sweeter thing.

i860. February ^, — The ratifications of the Commercial
Treaty between France and this country were exchanged
to-day. It is dated 23d January last and signed by
(i) Lord Cowley, (2) Richard Cobden, (3) Baroche, (4)
Rouher.

i860. February 8. — Dined with the Lord Chancellor
Campbell. Lavradio on the right and I on the left of
Lady Stratheden. I escorted Lady William Russell,
who chatted famously, notwithstanding a severe cold.
She and the Duchess of St. Albans boasted of their
jewelry ; the first, pearls worth a kingdom ; the second,
diamonds sans nombre, A great many lay figures at
table. Adjourned at eleven to Cambridge House.

i860. February 10. — House of Commons at half-past
four to hear Gladstone introduce his Budget. French
Treaty laid on table by Lord John Russell. The Chan-
cellor of the Exchequer spoke for four hours with un-
flagging energy and spirit. This Budget is an epoch in
the fiscal, social, and political history of England. It is
a vast and complicated scheme to adapt the system of
taxation, direct and indirect, to the exigencies of the new
Free Trade Treaty of Commerce with France. Every-
thing is made to give way to that treaty. It entails a
disbursement of seventy million one hundred thousand
pounds (say $350,560,000), to meet which existing re-
sources are inadequate, and fresh ones must be devised
to produce what would otherwise be the enormous deficit
of ;^9,400,ooo ($47,000,000) ! No wonder that the in-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 383

dustry of such a man as Gladstone should penetrate into
every nook and corner for rivulets of revenue, nor that
his courage should, instead of redeeming his promise to
extinguish the income tax made in 1853, insist upon ten-
pence in the pound! What is, at bottom, the object
which is to reconcile the country to this vast increase of
imposition ? The wines and knick-knackeries of France ?
The wider area for the coal and iron market? The
march of the great principle of free trade ? Bah ! Mr.
Cobden has lent his ability and experience to give that
direction to the political crisis, but those who put Mr.
Cobden forward were wholly incompetent to appreciate
and prepare such a programme, and aimed only at some-
thing which would give renewed life and closeness to the
** entente cordiale." This the Treaty and the Budget,
if carried out by Parliament, cannot fail to do. The
industries of the two countries must rapidly become in-
tertwined, if not so amalgamated as scarcely to admit of
future separation and — hostility. I see no impediment
to the legislative confirmation of this really wise plan
— wise for the two high contracting parties, whatever
may be its aspects dehors — except national pride. If
adopted, England submits to the same sort of relation to
France that Sicily in ancient days bore to Italy, — the
storehouse or granary. The tendency and result of the
whole arrangement are the unshackling and exaltation,
not of British, but of French, energies. While the
Treaty lasts, John Bull is the well-fed, petted, and power-
ful Elephant of Louis Napoleon's National Menagerie !
i860. February 11. — Went in the evening to Cam-
bridge House. Lord Palmerston wanted my notion of
the Budget, for he had noticed my presence in the gal-
lery. I abstained from every opinion except that of the

384 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

personal triumph of the orator, and praised the "per-
formance" as a remarkable one. Lord Brougham does
the same. He went into the House for the first time
since he was raised to the peerage. The Globe of this
afternoon mentions the intended marriage of Queen Vic-
toria's second daughter, the Princess Alice, to the Prince
of Orange. She is scarcely seventeen ; he is twenty-one,
and commonplace.

i860. February 15. — Levee at St. James's. Rumoured
through the throng that the Opposition have had a cau-
cus, and resolved to attack the Budget and the Treaty.
The countenances of Derby, Disraeli, Hardwicke,
Malmesbury, and Stanley indicated the relief which re-
sults from having decided on a course. I tried to see
whether the Queen was " Gracious Heavens" or not, but
the obscurity baffled me.

Dined at Lambeth Palace. The Bishop of Winchester
and St. David's present. Also Trench, Dean of Westmin-
ster, the writer of those capital little volumes on " Words."
His Grace the Archbishop uncommonly merry.

Private theatricals at the Turkish Ambassador's, to
which I am not well enough to accompany the ladies.

i860. February 16. — Went at four to the Commons to
hear Lord John Russell's answer to a question as to our
wanting in reciprocity in not allowing English navigation
the freedom of our coasting trade. He quoted with
some effect the characteristic and quaint declaration of
Bancroft in 1849, " You give some, we'll give some; you
give much, we'll give much ; you give all, we'll give all."
He became as ** peert" as Sam Slick about our saying
that allowing them to participate in the coasting trade
would be unconstitutional, and I think such a pretence
merited his sneer.

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 385

i860. February 18. — ^Two receptions, — Count D'Ap-
ponyi's and Lord Palmerston's. The D*Aumale.s at the
former; a brilliant, select, and limited circle. An im-
mense jam at the latter. Much stir at the prospect of a
movement by Mr. Disraeli on Monday next against the
Treaty and the Budget. The same by Lord Derby in the
House of Lords. Still, I cannot believe the Opposition are
so unwise as to wish to turn out their adversaries just now.
I conversed freely with Lord Clarence Paget, Mr. Rich,
Mr. Delane, Monckton Milnes, etc. My opinion as to
the proper course of the government was given figura-
tively : to regard the Treaty and Budget as Siamese twins,
— united we stand, divided we fall. In other words, to re-
gard the latter as essential to the execution of the former ; to
admit no change in details, but insist upon the combined
scheme as a whole, even at the hazard of losing it. If it be
not carried, Bonaparte will find apology for resentment.
If it be tinkered at here, it must undergo the same danger-
our process in the Legislative Chamber of France, where
the protectionists may be strong enough to knock it up.
The Tories don't relish the idea of another dissolution
and election, and, rather than undergo that operation,
would, if openly threatened with it, swallow the entire
dose rather than corner Lord Palmerston. The pear is
not yet ripe.

i860. February 21. — Mr. Disraeli's last night speech
against the Budget and Treaty was exceedingly feeble.
He was answered by being literally crushed. The reply
of Gladstone was prompt, animated, and eloquent. I
listened attentively to both. Disraeli sunk in my esti-
mation ; Gladstone took me by storm. They are not a
fair match. Even in the very arts for which Disraeli is
famous, — irony, sarcasm, sneer, — Gladstone surpassed

386 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

him. The assailing motion failed, and thus the govern-
ment achieved the first victory. This great battle cannot
be retrieved by the Opposition. The argument continues,
however, under another motion, by Mr. Ducane, of a
broader and clearer character than Disraeli's.

i860. February 22. — Queen's levee at St. James's.
Unusually brilliant. Captain McClintock knighted.

i860. February 25. — In the House of Commons the
Ministry achieved another and more overwhelming vic-
tory last night. Mr. Ducane's motion was defeated by a
majority of 1 16. Members voting, 562.

To-night went to the Countess Waldegrave's. She is
the daughter of Braham, the songster whom I heard at
Drury Lane Theatre in 18 13-14. She has had three
husbands. Her first two were brothers, Earls de Wal-
degrave, descended collaterals of Horace Walpole. Her
present one is old Mr. Harcourt, M.P., aged seventy-five,
whom she married in 1846. Their town residence is on
Carlton Terrace, and as beautiful as any I have seen in
London. It is enriched with a large collection of works
of art, paintings, sculptures, and ornamental knick-
knacks of every description. Everything bespeaks
wealth, taste, luxury, and pretension. I had much con-
versation with Mr. Gladstone (whose head is naturally a
little turned), Lord Palmerston, and Lord Chelmsford.
The last promised me a memorandum as to where I
might get books for our Philadelphia Law Association.

The newspapers of the afternoon announce an ex-
tremely important fact, if true, — the reconciliation of
Russia and Austria, with a treaty of alliance, offensive
and defensive, guaranteeing especially the security of
Venetia and Hungary. At Lady Waldegrave's, upon
being questioned on the subject. Countess d'Apponyi

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 387

replied, " Ce n'est pas vrai, c*est un canard." This
denial may be mere ignorance or diplomacy. There is
in the statement itself great verisimilitude. The two
Courts have strong affinities. They are in constant
intercourse; their youthful monarchs cannot prolong
the breach which the ingratitude of Austria occasioned
during the Crimean War without playing recklessly into
the hands of Louis Napoleon, already looking to the
extension of French limits by the annexation of Savoy
and Nice. An additional rumour ascribes alarm to Prus-
sia, who is disposed to join the coalition. Without ad-
verting to these facts, the Press to-day, with solemnity,
announces, in large capitals, " The New Revolution !"

i860. February 27. — I had an interview with Lord
John Russell to-day, in order to submit a petition to the
Queen for the pardon of John W. Moody, convicted of
manslaughter and sentenced to hard labour for life. All
the numerous documents and a number of private letters
were left for transfer to the Home Department. The
appeal is well sustained, but the public feeling is just
now so high against the cruelties committed by masters
and mates on board of American merchantmen that I
fear the government will be indisposed to clemency.

The report of alliance between Russia and Austria
seems to be unfounded. Another, however, equally
pregnant with consequences, is entertained, to wit ; that
the Emperor has abandoned the project of Italian unity ;
has prohibited the annexation of Tuscany to Piedmont,
and proposed for that Duchy a new sovereign, the son
of the Duke of Genoa, Victor Emmanuel's brother, a
child of six years, with the Regency ; has decided on
restoring the Romagna, with a Lay Vicar, to the suze-
rainty of the Pope, and has agreed to the annexation of

388 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Modena and Padua to Piedmont. Nothing but the in-
stability and waywardness of the Napoleonic policy can
give plausibility to these statements. If they have any
foundation, we must expect the spring to open with War
and Revolution.

i860. February 29. — Came late home from three enter-
tainments : first, the Royal Geographical Society's soiree
at the Earl de Grey and Ripon's ; second, at the Prussian
Minister's ; and third, at Lord Palmerston's.

During the visit at Lord Ripon's I had several lively
chats, one in particular, with Mr. Roebuck and Monck-
ton Milnes, respecting Bonaparte's pretensions to Savoy.
My impression was frankly stated. I had no doubt the
Emperor intended to have, and will have, the province ;
and they seemed incredulous and rather indignant. To
wind them up somewhat higher, I argued the claim to
be reasonable, such as France would naturally expect
her Sovereign to make, after immense sacrifices of blood
and treasure to Victor Emmanuel. Milnes said that
Lord John Russell had committed himself this evening
in the House of Commons on the subject, denying that
the Emperor had determined on advancing the claim.

Pretty much the same topics of conversation at Bern-
storff's and Palmerston's, where I met Milner Gibson,
Seymour Fitzgerald, Moreira, etc.

The wall of the stairway at the Royal Geographical
meeting was signally adorned by an immense water-
coloured map of Vancouver's Island and adjacent water,
a broad red line running down the centre of Rosario Strait I
It is amazing how statesmanship and science are made
to cater in this country to the appetite for foreign acqui-
sition !

i860. March 2. — ^The Legislative Chamber in France

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 389

was opened yesterday by the Emperor with a speech,
of which this morning's Times contains a copy, and
there, forsooth (didn't I tell you so !), the acquisition of
Savoy is openly proclaimed as necessary to the safety
of France ! The British Ministry and Parliament are
unanimously against it, but the Treaty and Budget have
linked both inseparably to the entente cordiale. Who
will run the risk of losing thirty-six millions of customers
for coal and iron by quarrelling about the manner in
which Louis Napoleon treats Victor Emmanuel or en-
dangers the balance of power ? Russia, Prussia, Aus-
tria, and Switzerland may growl ; but England ? Not a
word.

Lord John Russell laid upon the table of the House
of Commons last night his new Reform Bill. The very
quintessence and perfection of fizzle ! I met him by ap-
pointment at the Foreign Office to-day, and read him
General Cass's refusal to continue the argument about
San Juan, in the face of his Lordship's repeating the
obnoxious and insolent declaration that no disposition
of the boundary will be assented to which does not give
that island to England. This " piece of impertinence,"
as the Tribune calls the British claim, will have to be
yielded ; and I think I perceive symptoms of less con-
fidence already.

i860. March 6. — At the French Embassy in the even-
ing. Persigny pinioned me on a sofa as soon as I got in«
He was in great excitement about the debate on Savoy,
and abused everybody for attacking the Emperor. The
truth is, these English moralizers have gone rather far in
remonstrating as well diplomatically as in speaking in
both houses on an annexation with which they have
nothing to do. Persigny hints that the course taken

390 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

endangers the alliance, and seems to look for war some-
where in the spring. Can anything be more preposter-
ous than the disposition which prevails among British
statesmen to lecture everybody on everything ?

i860. March 7. — Dined with Mr. and Miss Sterling,
— the annual entertainment given by this venerable
brother and sister to the United States Minister. Lady
Hume, a sister of Miss Sterling, and her son, who came
from Edinburgh to attend the levee of the Queen for the
officers of the Rifle Volunteers, Dr. Ashburnham, who
knew and talked about Mr. Robert Dale Owen, Sir J.
Ross, several ladies, and Mr. Richard Penruddock Long,
were at table. The last named is M.P. for Chippenham,
and married a daughter of Lady Hume. A family
dinner !

In going to Mr. Sterling's, I noticed that the illumi-
nated indicator in front of Apsley House, at Hyde
Park Corner, had been destroyed by some violence.
This has been often threatened, the structure being
esteemed an eyesore by the Duke of Wellington !

i860. March 10. — Last night, in the House of Com-
mons, Mr. Byng*s motion for an address to the Queen
approving the Treaty of Commerce with France was
adopted by two hundred and eighty-two to fifty-six, a
majority of two hundred and twenty-six !

I went yesterday to hear Faraday's lecture at the
British Institution. It was on the subject of the electric
light for light-houses. He is anxious to get the govern-
ment to try the efficacy of what he termed " my spark."
It was hardly possible to resist the belief that the
discovery was admirable. There was an immensely
thronged hall, sprinkled with ladies; Lords Wellington,
Wensleydale, Stanhope, and Von Dorkum were present.

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 39 1

At two yesterday had an interview with Sir George
Cornewall Lewis respecting the case of J. W. Moody. I
pressed particularly upon him that the criminal was an
American, the victim an American, and the vessel in
which the act occurred was American. I also suggested
that mercy might be made conditional, and as a foreigner
had violated the local law, he could be forbidden ever
to come to England again. Sir George consulted me
about the law and practice in the United States as regards
appeals in criminal cases.

i860. March 15. — Went this evening to Mr. Henry
Reeve's, of the Edinburgh Review. It is at least three
miles off. Duke d'Aumale, Sir R. Murchison, Sir Henry
Holland, Oliphant, Tricoupi, etc.

i860. March 17. — At Lord Palmerston's to dinner.
Went at eight and got there before any of the company
had arrived, except Sir John Lawrence, hero of the
Punjaub, to whom I introduced myself, and with whom
I had a pleasant chat before either host or hostess
appeared. There were at table Mr. and Mrs. Van
de Weyer, myself, and Mrs. Dallas, Lord and Lady
Shaftesbury, Lord and Lady Liveden, Marquess of
Lansdowne, Sir George and Lady Grey, Sir J. Law-
rence, Mr. and Mrs. Cowper (Board of Works), Mr.
Oliphant, Mr. E. Ashley, and Miss Dallas. I sat between
Lady Palmerston and Lady Liveden, and was pleasantly
entertained. The dinner strikingly good.

After dinner, at about eleven, a numerous reception
up-stairs. We went in the course of half an hour to
Lord Clarence Paget's, Assistant Secretary of the Ad-
miralty.

Great curiosity mingled with some anxiety was
created by the emphatic announcement of Lord John

392 DIAR Y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

Russell in the House of Commons last night, to the
effect that he had in the course of the evening received
from Paris a despatch from Thouvenel of immense mo-
ment, which he had not yet been able to lay before the
Cabinet, and of which he could say no more than that
it related to Savoy. In all probability, the Emperor
has ventilated his irritation at the manner in which he
and his policy are discussed in Parliament Lord John
was to have kept an appointment with me at the Foreign
Office to-day, but he postponed it by note, alleging ill-
ness. When Lord Palmerston, this evening, was asked
what was the nature of Lord John's complaint, he said
he supposed it was a toothache, or perhaps Thouvenel f

Met Mr. Frank Crossley here. He is an M.P. and
an extensive carpet-manufacturer of Halifax, Yorkshire.
We conversed for some time. He -said, among other
things, that more carpeting of the Brussels kind was
used in the United States than in Great Britain and
Europe put together; ay, twice as much. I asked him
how he accounted for the fact. He replied that in
America carpets were renewed every three or four years ;
that we had a dislike to dingy carpets ; that such a worn
carpet as this of Lord Palmerston*s under our feet
would not be tolerated in any gentleman's house in the
United States ; that on the Continent carpets were com-
paratively little in use. He admitted that we manufac-
tured the Brussels as well as they did, but we were not
yet as skilful with another kind.

i860. March 18. — A bright, warm day. Walked to
the Zoological Gardens. Four interesting additions :
the spider monkey, the gigantic salamander, the prairie
dogs, and the gorgeous peacocks. Met Leslie's widow
and son there, and led them to these objects of special

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES, 393

attraction. The crocuses and snowdrops are in full
bloom already! They skirt the sides of the main walk
like glowing ribbons.

Dined with Sir E. Bulwer Lytton, who appears to
have recovered health and strength. He was unusually
talkative and eloquent. Seventeen gentlemen at table ;
and seat vacant, or a Banquo, I occupied the chair on
the right of Sir Edward, on his left the Duke of Wel-
lington, on my right Lord Stanley, opposite to him the
Marquis of Salisbury, then Lord Hanover, Mr. White-
side, etc.

Telegrams announce that Victor Emmanuel has in
full form accepted the annexations of Parma, Modena,
and Romagna, and will to-morrow accept that of Tuscany.
Things are now moving rapidly. The Pope excommu-
nicates the King of Sardinia with ancient solemnity at
the Vatican in a few days. Savoy and Nice are ceded
to France; and Switzerland, through her Minister at
Paris, Dr. Kern, has protested.

i860. March 20. — Dined with Von Dorkum, the
Danish Minister. His successor De Bille, son of the
Minister so long in the United States, was at table. A
worse dinner was never served, Til warrant it, in the
Admiral's longest voyage in his cabin. Captain Wash-
ington, Samson, of the Times, and a Baron Humboldt,
were the only others that I remember.

i860. March 22. — Went last night to a reception of
the Duke of Somserset at the Admiralty. Her Grace
and Lady Dufferin are sisters of Mrs. Norton ; three of
the most striking and attractive women now in London.
I spoke to the Duke about my countrywoman, Mrs.
Costen, and her system of night signals for men-of-war.
He seemed actually frightened, sidling away from me as

34*

394 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

if he expected a blow : I suspect this to be a shy habit,
for I noticed it when he was spoken to by others.

I had previously gone to Sir Charles Lyell's; Dr.
Milman, Earl Stanhope, Professor Wheatstone, Mr.
Thackeray, Gibbs, tutor of Prince of Wales, and a great
deal of natural science were there.

i860. March 24. — Drawing-room at St. James's Pal-
ace. The assemblage briUiant, but not numerous.

Public men are greatly exercised. Napoleon's firm
annexation of Savoy and Nice, in perfect contempt of
the rest of Europe, and especially of the British Parlia-
ment, occasions much moody reflection and anxiety.
Lord John Russell failed to tell the House of Commons
the nature of the despatch from Thouvenel he had
hastily mentioned on Friday. Everybody concludes
that it was angry and insolent ; and that Lord Palmer-
ston may endanger his administration by again truckling
to Imperial language. The political Cassandras in
breeches are everywhere predicting fresh European
complications and wars. The Times of to-day contains
the most offensive attack yet made upon the Emperor,
characterizing his policy as " les fourberies de Scapin,"
or the " mean tricks of Figaro." Its epithets applied to
Thouvenel are abominable. Bonaparte is rumoured to
have opened negotiations for an addition of territory on
the northeast of France.

i860. March 27. — Went last evening to the House of
Commons. Mr. Horsman, on Kinglake's motion about
Savoy, was extremely bitter against the Ministerial
" truckling" to Bonaparte. Sir Robert Peel, with a large
roll of paper in his hands (probably the anti-annexation-
ists of Nice), was obviously prepared to follow in the
same vein. Lord John Russell, however, rose and, ^^ft^r

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 395

vindicating the course of the administration, closed with
a most remarkable statement which drew loud cheers
from the Opposition. It was to the effect that the course
of the Emperor had inspired universal distrust; that
England could not be isolated ; that the interests and
safety and peace of Europe were dear to her ; and that,
as France was uncertain and changeable in her course,
England must look out for new friends and alliances on
the Continent. The Times of this morning construes
this speech as the end of the alliance and the defeat of
the Treaty, as far as it depends on the changes in the
Budget.

i860. March 28. — Queen's levee at St. James's Palace
unusually crowded and protracted. Her Majesty wore
a magnificent necklace of large and beautiful pearls of
several strands, which reminded me of the one I re-
marked of the same nature twenty odd years ago on
the Russian Empress. I had interesting conversations
with Lord Palmerston, Sydney Herbert, Lord Elgin,
Persigny, Kielmansegg, etc. Lord John Russell's speech
of Monday has set the French Embassy in a flame, and
enchanted all the representatives of the small German
courts.

Dined with the Queen to-day. My seniors, Kielman-
segg and Tricoupi, were at table. The Prince Consort
sat on her Majesty's left; young Prince Alfred, the mid-
shipman, opposite the Queen, having the Duchess of
Kent, his grandmother, on his right. I took in and
placed on my right, and on the left of Prince Alfred, the
Duchess of St. Albans, whose husband, Lord Falkland,
took in Mrs. Dallas. There were present, also, Madame
Tricoupi, Lady Diana Beauclerc, Lord Elgin, Sir Charles
Lyell, Colonel Biddulph, and other functionaries, male

396 DfARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

and female, of the household. The band of music was
admirable, the fresh and natural floral ornamentations
beautiful, and the dinner perfect. When returned into
the Picture-Gallery,the Queen and Prince Consort made
themselves unusually gracious and pleasant.

Went from Buckingham Palace to Lord Palm^rston's,
where her Ladyship had one of her extemporaneous
and crowded receptions.

i860. April 4. — Parliament adjourned last night for
the Easter holidays, — that is, until Monday, the i6th
inst.

I was yesterday called upon by Professor , of

Boston. He seemed to be under the impression that
his fame was universal, and expressed astonishment and
indignation that he was not at once recognized as a
man of great science and position. It was difficult to
convince him that I did not know him, and could not
rationally acquiesce in his pretension to represent the
Academy of Arts and Sciences in Boston. " Have you
a letter or line of introduction?" "No." "Have you
anything to show your authorization by the Acad-
emy?" "No." "Any document with fts seal?"
" No." " Any note or memorandum, written or print-
ed ?" " No, I have nothing. There is my visiting-
card, and I claim by that to be treated as a gentle-
man of science." " Not to know you. Professor, is
my misfortune, which you should not upbraid as a
fault. I don't doubt your word ; but in approaching
the British Government to obtain for you a very valu-
able set of the Geological Survey maps, I am not at
liberty to act upon your word only. Do you know
none of the men of science here?" "Yes: Sir Rod-
erick Murchison, Sir Charles Lyell." " Quite enough.

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 397

Bring me a line from either, and I will address Lord
John Russell for you." He left me, somewhat "ap-
peased, but by no means convinced that I was prop-
erly deferential to his attainments and reputation. It is
very rare to meet science without an accompaniment of
personal modesty ; sometimes it so happens. To-day I
received a short, neat, and satisfactory assurance from
Sir Charles Lyell, and have therefore felt warranted in
asking for the charts.

i860. April 7. — Called on Cropsey, our American
artist. He has finished his great picture of " Autumn
on the Hudson River.*' It is very large and admirable.
The sweep of verdure in the centre down to the river
and grouped with sheep, the water, the dreamy atmos-
phere, the village, and the sun penetrating through cloud,
are all very beautiful and fine. Perhaps, here and there,
the colouring of the trees, though certainly faithful to
nature, is too strong and glittering for canvas.

i860. April 9. — Went to Kellog*s studio. Enjoyed
a long gaze at his Raphael. His picture of the angel
transporting an infant, just dead, to Heaven is graceful
and agreeable. I don't think he has succeeded in taking
the portrait of Mr. Bright, but I could not bear to tell
him so. He has failed to catch the expression. I am
afraid, from the appearances of discomfort and a shade
of despondency, that he is not employed. As the
Queen had listened to my request, on behalf of the
American Association, to permit him to'copy one of her
best portraits, he expressed his thanks, and I advised
him to consult Sir Charles Eastlake as to the one most
eligible.

A capital article is the first in this month's Edinburgh
Review, full of clear reasoning and close facts. It is on

398 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the " Commercial Relations of England and France." I
was particularly struck with the clearness of the positioa
on which it founds its reasoning in favour of the Free
Trade, which is regarded as consequent upon the Treaty
and the Budget, It is as follows : " The great problem
of the government of modern society is, on the one
hand, to raise the value of human labour by creating a
more constant and abundant demand for its products,
and, on the other hand, to lower the price of the natural
or artificial necessaries of life by creating a more constant
and abundant supply of them. This is the problem
which freedom of trade, and the free exchange of com-
modities according to the wants of man, undertakes to
solve; this is the object to which the protective system,
as it has existed in France, is directly opposed, because,
on the one hand, it depresses the value of labour by lim-
iting the demand for its produce to the home market,
and, on the other hand, it confines to the home market,
whose prices are raised by artificial restrictions, the
supply of the necessaries of life. There cannot be too
much of anything in the world, because, from the moment
its price brings it within the reach of those classes which
were previously deprived of it, their power of consump-
tion and their desire of procuring it are absolutely illim-
itable. To produce an artificial scarcity in order to keep
up an artificial price is, on the contrary, to augment by
bad legislation those privations which are still the lot of
the majority of mankind."

i860. April 12. — Was visited to-day very numerously ;
among others by an exceedingly interesting gentleman,
Mr. Auguste de la Rive, who is here on behalf of Switz-
erland, to impress this government properly with the
dangers, incident to the Emperor's annexation of Savoy

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 399

and Nice, to Europe, and especially to his own country.
He knew Mr. Gallatin well, knew all his family in Geneva,
the aristocratic and the democratic branches. He assures
me that but one sentiment prevails in Switzerland, — that
their peril alarms everybody. M. Persigny tells him
that Napoleon will concede all that is necessary to their
perfect security, but mistrust is universal. He wished
the great Republic of the West was sufficiently near to
the little European one to help her, if necessary.

1 860. April 16. — Parliament resumed its session to-day.

i860. April 17. — The fight between Tom Sayers and
Hcenan came off near Aldershot this morning. Both
parties dreadfully beaten and the battle undecided, after
lasting one hour and twenty minutes, with forty rounds.
Heenan would have killed Sayers by pressing him under
his arm and against the ropes, had not the crowd cut the
ring.

i860. April 18. — First of our " at homes" or receptions
for the present season. Delightfully attended and greatly
praised for their informal and sociable character.

Our opposite neighbours, the Van de Weyers, came
from their country residence. New Lodge, near Windsor,
to-day. They have refitted their town house in honour
of their eldest daughter, who goes into company this
winter.

Court goes into mourning to-morrow for two weeks,
the Queen's step-brother-in-law having died.

i860. April 2^ — The Queen's levee, appointed origi-
nally for the 2 1st inst, was postponed and held to-day.
I presented several gentlemen in the general circle. Some

solicitude and responsibility as to Mr. W , owing to

his taking so prominent a part in the recent prize-fight;
but his deportment is unexceptionable, and I was not

400 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

warranted in making any distinction among my coun-
trymen. The matter passed off without any difficulty,
whether because it is understood that I am prepared,
after a few years of experience, not to be again trifled

with by Major-General Sir E. C, or because Mr. W

attracted no special notice, I cannot preteqd to assert.

i860. April 26. — Bulwer Lytton made a brilliant and
victorious speech against Lord John Russell's Reform
Bill in the Commons to-night. It was vociferously and
protractedly cheered. The bill would be in danger but
for the dread of a dissolution.

i860. May 2. — Our reception, or "at home," thronged
and distinguished. In the evening went in succession
to the Bishop of London's, Lord Derby's, and Lady
Waldegrave's. Neither the Bishop nor Mrs. Tate was at
home to receive their company, having been, as late as
eleven o'clock last night, commanded to dine to-day at
Buckingham Palace. Their rooms were nevertheless
closely crowded. The press at Lord Derby's was, as
usual, perfectly intolerable. We were jammed on the
stairway, incapable of going up or down, for full a half
hour. We reached Lady Waldegrave's after twelve,
when her guests had thinned comfortably. What a gem
of elegant art is her Ladyship's whole house !

i860. May 5. — ^The Brazilian Minister called to-day.
He has just returned from Paris, and finds that, during
his absence, Lord John Russell has written to Brazil on
the expediency of assembling in Europe a general Inter-
national Congress to devise modes of effectually putting
an end to the slave-trade. He proposes to invite the
United States and Brazil to send their representatives to
this Congress ; and the government at Rio have deter-
mined in advance to conform their action to that of the

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 4OI

government at Washington. Moreria wished me to say
whether any invitation had been addressed to the Presi-
dent, and whether I thought it h'kely our government
would accede? I told him frankly I had heard nothing
upon the subject, and that I deemed it quite impossible
that the present American government would listen to the
overture. Let me, said Moreria, put this question to
you : suppose Brazil were to accept Lord John's invita-
tion, how would you characterize and regard her conduct?
I answered instantly, as unfriendly and un-American.
Am I at liberty to write home to that effect? Certainly,
as an expression of my individual opinion : the United
States can never consent, and least of all upon this topic,
to merge into a European conference ; we are resolutely
set upon keeping the two continents separate in politics.

By the Persia we have news from the United States
to the 25th ultimo. General Gushing had been elected
permanent president of the convention at Charleston.

i860. May 9. — Garibaldi, with an expeditionary corps
of three thousand men, left Genoa for Sicily on the night
of the 5th and 6th insts. The insurrection in the interior
of that island would seem to be making headway.

A concert at Buckingham Palace. Capital "at home"
to-day.

i860. May II. — Dined at Mr. Young's. Lord Over-
stone and his shadow; both rough and excited about the
Reform Bill, and bo^h ashamed of themselves.

i860. May 14. — Music at Countess de Waldegrave's ;
Graziani admirable. Dancing at Austrian Legation.
Small hop at Mr. Gladstone's.

i860. May 16. — Queen's ball at Buckingham Palace.
We had in charge several ladies and gentlemen. The
Duke of Newcastle promises to allow Dr. Rawlins to

402 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

be in the train of the Prince of Wales on board the
ninety-one-gun ship across the Atlantic.

Small panic on the Parisian Bourse telegraphed to-
night. The progress of Garibaldi is certain. They are
packing up their jewels at Naples for flight and a revo-
lution.

i860. May 18. — Her Majesty's nominal birthday;
real one on 24th inst. Grand display at the drawing-
room. Prince Frederick of Holland in the royal group.
Dinner for fifty or sixty in Downing Street. Sir W.
Gore Ouseley there, and apparently in good health and
spirits. Mr. Wyke there, also. The streets were hand-
somely illuminated at night.

Closed a most fatiguing day by visiting Lord Palmer-
ston at twelve at night.

Garibaldi is represented to have fifteen thousand men,
and to be in possession of Messina.

i860. May 19. — The newly decorated residence of the
Belgian Minister was open this morning for reception,
** to meet H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and H.
R. H. the Princess Mary."

i860. May 23. — Some piano-playing at Mrs. Darby
Griffith's, whence we adjourned to Mr. Gladstone's,
whom I was glad to find in excellent spirits, notwith-
standing the overwhelming majority of eighty-nine with
which his measure for repealing the tax on paper was
condemned in the House of Lords on Monday, the
2 1 St inst.

i860. May 24. — A splendid ball at Mr. Bates's, in
Arlington Street, given by his daughter, Mrs. Van de
Weyer. Her own house is ample for all reasonable pur-
poses, and for unreasonable purposes, such as were aimed
at to-night, no house in London is large enough. The

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 403

Royalties were there instead of at Regent Street, in the
Belgian Legation, as was designed on the 19th inst.

i860. May 10, — Our weekly "at home." A throng
of agreeable people.

i860. May '^i, — Garibaldi entered Palermo on 27th
inst. The Neapolitan soldiers retreated to the Citadel,
and have been bombarding their own city !

Commodore Stockton dined with us to-day, also Sir
John Bowring, Mr. Frank Corbin, Mr. Beech Lawrence
and his daughter, Sir Henry Holland. Mr. Lyman, Mr.
Howland, etc. In the evening we had a crowded party.

i860. June 2. — Dined at Miss Gamble's, Chevalier
WykofT's grossly calumniated friend. She has fortune,
is living nearly opposite to us in an exceedingly well-
arranged and handsome house, and her dinner was irre-
proachable. Over the mantel-piece of the dining-room
she had an interesting cast, given to her by the poet
Rogers, of Mercury bearing Pandora in his arms to the
earth.

An armistice between Garibaldi and the Neapolitans:
the latter to quit Sicily with their twenty-five thousand
men in a week.

Definite and full accounts to-day from the Republican
Convention at Chicago. They have nominated Abraham
Lincoln, of Illinois, for President, and Hannibal Hamlin,
of Maine, for Vice-President : both of one geographical
section, the free North. Lincoln is as absolutely self-
made as our democracy could desire. He began life as
a day-labourer, and took to making fence-rails.

i860. June 20. — Great gap in my memoranda. On
Friday last, the isth inst, Bonaparte went to Baden to
meet the Regent of Prussia. This opens another of his
great movements. He met there a covey of Kings ;

404 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Stayed until Sunday night; travelled during the night
back to Paris, and met his Ministers on Monday morn-
ing. About's pamphlet, "La Prusse en i860," is out

On Sunday morning, June 17th, the Great Elastern
left Southampton for New York.

We had a large dinner, by Lady Chantrey, at the " Star
and Garter," on the 19th inst.

i860. June 21. — We had our "at home" yesterday;
crowded. Went in the evening to Apsley House. The
Queen and Prince Consort, with several continental Roy-
alties, were there. A concert.

My countrymen appear taking London by storm.

Dined to-day at Sir Thomas Cochrane's, and adjourned
to Lady Palmerston's.

My journal threatens to be a mere hasty register of
parties.

i860. June 23. — Queen's State Ball last night at Buck-
ingham Palace. As we followed into the supper-room,
a tremendous crash, sounding like the fall of a chan-
delier, alarmed us all. It proved to be one of the golden
ornaments, a superb vase, placed against the wall behind
the fountain of cologne water. Sir John Crampton and
his bride (late Miss Balfe, cantatrice) passed the Queen.
Four of the embassy from Morocco were present,
wrapped almost to concealment in light bernouses and
hoods ; one of them huge in size, and wearing a turban
of great dimensions and weight.

i860. June 27. — A most luxurious visit to the Marquis
of Westminster's in the evening, his objects of art yield-
ing boundless gratification. His Rubens are immense
and delightful ; his Blue Boy, of Gainsborough, has the
reputation of being that artist's most perfect production ;
his Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse in the act of in-

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 405

spiration, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, is splendid; and then
his Raphaels, Guidos, etc., etc. ! There is a prodigious
money value in this superb collection.

i860. June 28. — A ball at Holderness House, the
Marchioness of Londonderry's. Her Ladyship, a stout
dame magnificently dressed, and acting a Royal High-
ness, has much repute as a woman of intellect and
practical business talent. Her graceless son. Vane
Tempest, managed some weeks ago to decoy Lady S. C,
the Duke of Newcastle's daughter, to disregard her
father's injunctions and to run off with him and be mar-
ried. Poor girl, what a life she has chosen ! In one of
the salons I noticed several rich presents made by the
Czar Nicholas to Lord Londonderry and her Ladyship
in the spring of 1837, the very season in which we
reached St. Petersburg and occupied the Bobrinsky
House, which they had just vacated. These ornaments,
malachite vases, and rich specimens of porcelain beauti-
fully painted, were each on pedestals inscribed with a
memorandum of the giver's name and the date. There
were fine paintings on the walls, one, a Holy Family
and St. John, specially provided with extra lights, as if
esteemed a gem; but though, as a painting, it was ex-
quisite, there was something fierce and forbidding in the
looks of both mother and son which I did not relish.
The ballroom was vast, vaulted, and enriched with sculp-
tures and paintings. As at the Marquis of Westminster's,
enormous wealth proclaimed itself in every direction.

i860. July 4. — During the week we have had a grand
review by the Queen of twenty-four thousand Rifle Vol-
unteers in Hyde Park, and a target-firing on Wimbledon
Common, at which her Majesty set the example of
hitting the bull's-eye.

35'

406 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

Our celebration was held at the London Tavern.
There were one hundred present. I responded to The
Day we celebrate. Dr. Mackay and Mr. Layard spoke.
The dinner was unusually good, but the rest quite the
reverse. I gave the Association for its charity fund five
pounds.

Went at twelve to Lansdowne House. A disgusting
squeeze ! every room jammed, and the Marquis exceed-
ing difficult to find or reach. Perhaps one thousand
visitors present.

i860. July 5. — Dined with Mr. Russell Sturgis and a
company of eighteen, among whom the Wildes of Man-
chester, Judge Warren, etc., etc.

i860. July 6. — At Lord Wensleydale's to dinner.
Justice Earl present, Mr. and Mrs. Lowe, etc.

Last night I was in the House of Commons and heard
Lord Falmerston make a very statesmanlike and concili-
atory speech respecting the violation of the privileges of
the House by the Lords in rejecting the bill abolishing
the paper duty. It may probably drive Gladstone and
Gibson out of the Cabinet. The Premier was loudly
and repeatedly cheered by the Opposition, while his
Liberal supporters maintained a sullen silence. His
resolutions, throwing oil on the troubled waters, will be
carried overwhelmingly.

i860. July 7. — Dined with Mr. Bates; Mr. Goff, of

Canada, Thomas Baring, Bancroft Davis, Mr. Baring

and his lovely wife, daughter of Mintum, of New York,
and several more present.

\i6o, July 10. — Sixty-eighth return! and good health 1
Gratitude ! gratitude I

On this day last week I received letters from General
Cass, Senators Gwinn and Slidell, introducing Mr. C.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 407

Calvo. This gentleman is empowered by the Para-
guayan government to negotiate for the arrangement of
the controversy respecting Mr. Caustall and the former
Consul, Mr. Henderson. Lord John Russell and Lord
Wodehouse are short and peremptory' with him, and, as
he feels greatly embarrassed what to do, he requests my
advice. His government is clearly right in the position
they have taken, and are ably proved to be so by a pro-
fessional opinion of Dr. Philh'more. I have suggested
to him the expediency of abstaining from any irritating
discussion, of returning to Paris, and of allowing the
Ministry time to consult the crown lawyers on the points
so irresistibly enforced by Phillimore; in the mean while
some call may be made upon the subject in the House
of Commons ; and when Lord John has had an oppor-
tunity of showing that the errors of the British course
of action originated with his predecessor, he will be pre-
pared to pursue a different course. Until that, or some-
thing of the kind occurs, he will not abandon the absurd
attitude taken by Lord Malmesbury.

i860. July 16. — ^The International Statistical Congress
opened its fourth session to-day in this city. I had de-
clined being a member, when invited a month ago by
the President of the Board of Trade, Mr. Milner Gibson.
On Saturday last the Committee of Organization sent
special cards to the members of the Corps diplomatique,
and, in order to manifest my respect for the Prince Con-
sort, I went to hear his opening address. Lord Brougham
took the opportunity, after the delivery of the ad-
dress, which was really very good, abruptly to call out
to me by name, and hoped I would observe that there
was '* a negro in the assemblage !" I perceived instantly
the grossness of the act, and, seeing the black in the

408 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

very centre of the philosophers, hadn't a doubt that it
was a premeditated contrivance to provoke me into some
unseemly altercation with the coloured personage. I
balked that by remaining silent and composed. The
gentleman of colour, however, rose, and requested per-
mission of the Prince Consort, as chairman, to thank
Lord Brougham for his notice, with an emphatic con-
clusion, " I am a man." Query : Is not the government
answerable for this insult ? Or must it be regarded as
purely the personal indecency of Lord Brougham ? Curia
advisare vult,

i860. July 18. — ^Judge Longstreet, the United States
Delegate to the International Congress, sent yesterday his
written withdrawal, in consequence of Lord Brougham's
conduct.

There is no telling to what this outrage may lead.
Brougham is already feeling the weight of a unanimous
public opinion. He attempted to-day to make an ex-
planation or apology; said he meant no disrespect to me
or my government, and then, with a fatuity scarcely
comprehensible, went on to make the matter worse. Is
he, on this question of slavery, deranged ?

Dr. J , the delegate sent by the Statistical Associa-
tion of Massachusetts, called upon me. He said he came
from Lord Brougham, and was by him authorized to
remove any impression that I might have imbibed that
he intended to wound my feelings. I interrupted Dr.

J , and said that I could receive nothing from Lord

Brougham at second-hand; if he wished to do what was
right and restore the state of things his folly had dis-
turbed, he must make an ample and distinct apology for
the insult upon the United States ; he must do this in
the very body where he had made the attack, and what

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 409

he said should be sanctioned and approved by that body ;
if this was satisfactorily done, the personal indignity to
myself would melt into nothing before the infirmities of
his great age. Alas ! that an American citizen should

have witnessed, as Dr. J did, this outrage upon his

country, and yet be so bent upon his wretched statistical
essay or report as to prefer reading this last to resent-
ing the former. Dr. J distinguishes: says Lord

Brougham's act don't touch him, be;cause he is from a
free State ! " Out upon such half-faced fellowship !"

i860. July 20. — Lord Brougham called at ten a.m. I
had just time to tell my servant to refuse me. He is so
old, and has been so remarkable a man in his day and
generation, that I have to remind myself of his offence,
and of his aggravating it by the form and manner of his
pretended explanation, or I could scarcely screw my
mind up to the point of turning him from the door. He
came a second time, between twelve and one. I was then
at the Kensington Museum, and my secretary, receiving
him with the utmost deference, was, nevertheless^ silent.
He said once or twice, " You know who I am ? Lord
Brougham, Lord Brougham!" He went to the front
door, and then returned in the front office, and remarked,
" You know you don't treat your negroes as well as they
are treated in the Brazils !"

The treat I enjoyed at the Kensington Museum was
one of the richest I have had in England. The Turners,
the Hogarths, the Leslies, etc., are all delightful.

What an admirable reply to Lord Grey is that Fourth
of July speech of Everett's. He has literally over-
whelmed Grey in the spirit of truth and moderation.

Received a note from Lord Shaftesbury, hoping that
I won't report to my government the " very foolish and

4IO DIAKY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

very unwarrantable conduct of Lord Brougham"! This
advice is about as silly as Lord Harry's act, and perhaps
much less excusable.

i860. July 21. — The Peers don't approve their trouble-
some "chartered libertine" Brougham. Shaftesbury
writes. Lansdowne comes to make impressive assur-
ances. And Overstone denounces ore rotunda.

i860. July 24. — Judge Longstreet has issued a letter
addressed to the International Statistical Congress about
their gross conduct in applauding Lord Brougham. It
is printed in the Morning Chronicle, and evinces consid-
erable ability and tact. I shall not be surprised if, on
this sensitive topic, my countrymen, who never can be
rational about it, should consider me as having too tran-
quilly submitted to the remark of Brougham. One of
them here wishes I had "jumped to my feet and knocked
the old blackguard down !" This is not " ma maniere
ctagiry First, it would have been great folly to imply,
by word or act, that the question of slavery in the United
States could legitimately be discussed before the Ameri-
can Minister at a European Congress of any sort.
Second, the Congress was unanimously and vociferously
hostile ; the words of Brougham were cheered loudly ;
it was palpable that the act was the result of a contri-
vance between Brougham and his associate to get up an
altercation between the latter and myself, which was de-
feated by my treating the movement with silence. Third,
quitting the room was impossible, because my doing so
was physically impeded, and would instantly have been
followed by loud and prolonged indignities. Fourth, to
attempt, at a moment of sudden astonishment and in-
dignation, to vindicate the United States from the slur
thrown out, would have been extremely imprudent and

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 4II

hazardous; no man is authorized to commit his country
in a manner so unprepared. Fifth, my individual opin-
ion as to the races being unequal in intellect is strong,
but the point has never been studied, and could not be
handled in the slightest manner without exhibiting weak-
ness. Sixth, a foreign Minister cannot be justified or
excused in taking the attitude of a public declaimer in a
Congress where he was only an invited guest, and where
such a topic was not only not to be anticipated, but
wholly out of order. Indeed, such are my convictions
that I have thanked Heaven frequently and profoundly
that I had presence of mind enough to take the course
I did. Brougham has attempted in the very Congress
itself, and only two days after his extravagance, a feeble
and unsatisfactory apology ; he has sought me that he
might apologize in person, and has been turned from the
door. He is now perpetually inculcating that what he
did was not intended to be disrespectful to me or the
United States, and that it should be regarded as insig-
nificant.

i860. August I. — A very remarkable letter addressed
by Louis Napoleon to " mon cher Persigny," dated the
25th ult, at St. Cloud, has made its appearance. Its ob-
vious design is to reassure the government and people
of this country as to his designs, and remove the strong
mistrust now felt. It is written with seeming familiarity,
but with consummate art.

LETTER FROM THE FRENCH EMPEROR TO M. FERSIGNY.

The following important letter from the Emperor
Napoleon to the French Ambassador was referred to,
but not read, by Lord John Russell on Tuesday night
in the House of Commons :

412 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

St. Cloud, July 25, i860.

My dear Persigny, — Aflfairs appear to me to be so complicated,
thanks to the mistrust excited everywhere since the war in Italy, that I
write to you in the hope that a conversation, in perfect frankness, with
Lord Palmerston will remedy the existing evil. Lord Palmerston knows
me, and when I affirm a thing he will believe me. Well, you can tell
him from me, in the most explicit manner, that since the peace of Villa-
franca I have had but one thought, one object, — ^to inaugurate a new era
of peace, and to live on the best terms with all my neighbours, and
especially :i¥ith England. I had renounced Savoy and Nice ; the extra-
ordinary additions to Piedmont alone caused me to resume the desire to
see reunited to France provinces essentially French. But it will be ob-
jected, " You wish for peace, and you increase immoderately the military
forces of France." I deny the fact in every sense. My army and my
fleet have in them nothing of a threatening character. My steam navy
is even far from being adequate to our requirements, and the number of
steamers does not nearly equal that of sailing-ships deemed necessary in
the time of King Louis Philippe. I have four hundred thousand men un-
der arms ; but deduct from this amount sixty thousand in Algeria, six thou-
sand in Rome, eight thousand in China, twenty thousand gendarmes, the
sick, and the new conscripts, and you will see — what is the truth — that
my regiments are of smaller effective strength than during the preceding
reign. The only addition to the army list has been made by the creation
of the Imperial Guard. Moreover, while wishing for peace, I desire also
to organize the forces of the country* on the best possible footing ; for,
if foreigners have only seen the bright side of the last war, I myself,
close at hand, have witnessed the defects, and I wish to remedy them.
Having said thus much, I have since Villafranca neither done nor even
thought anything which could alarm any one. When Lavalette started
for Constantinople, the instructions which I gave him were confined to
this, " Use every effort to maintain the status quo; the interest of France
is that Turkey should live as long as possible.''

Now, then, occur the massacres in Syria, and it is asserted that I am
very glad to find a new occasion of making a little war, or of playing a
new part. Really, people give me credit for very little common sense.
If I instantly proposed an expedition, it was because my feelings were
those of the people which have put me at their head, and the intelligence
from Syria transported me with indignation. My first thought, neverthe-
less, was to come to an understanding with England. What other interest
than that of humanity could induce me to send troops into that country ?

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 413

Could it be that the possession of it would increase my strength? Can I
conceal from myself that Algeria, notwithstanding its future advantages,
is a source of weakness to France, which for thirty years has devoted to it
the purest of its blood and its gold? I said it in 1852 at Bordeaux, and
my opinion is still the same, — I have great conquests to make, but only in
France. Her interior organization, her moral development, the increase
of her resources, have still immense progress to make. There a field ex-
ists vast enough for my ambition and sufficient to satisfy it.

It was difficult for me to come to an understanding with England on
the subject of Central Italy, because I was bound by the peace of Villa-
franca. As to Southern Italy I am free from engagements, and I ask no
better than a concert with England on this point, as on others ; but, in
Heaven's name, let the eminent men who are placed at the head of the
English government lay aside petty jealousies and unjust mistrusts.

Let us understand one another in good faith, like honest men, as we
are, and not like thieves, who desire to cheat each other.

To sum up, this is my innermost thought : I desire that Italy should
obtain peace, no matter how, but without foreign intervention, and that
my troops should be able to quit Rome without compromising the security
of the Pope. I could very much wish not to be obliged to undertake the
Syrian expedition and, in any case, not to undertake it alone, first, because
it will be a great expense, and, second, because I fear that the intervention
may involve the Eastern question ; but, on the other hand, I do not see how
to resist public opinion in my country, which will never understand that
we can leave unpunished not only the massacre of Christians, but the
burning of our Consulates, the insult to our flag, and the pillage of the
monasteries which were under our protection.

I have told you all I think, without disguising or omitting anything.
Make what use you may think advisable of my letter.

Believe in my sincere friendship.

Napoleon.

i860. September 13. — Returned yesterday from a resi-
dence of four weeks in the country, about eight miles
from town. It was a neat, new house, which had been
occupied for a month by Lord Shaftesbury, called " Oak-
lands," about half-way up the hill on which the Crystal
Palace is built; whether in Upper Norwood, Sydenham,
or Dulwich Wood, we have never been able to ascertain

4T4 DIARY OP GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

with certainty. I rented it from Mr. Rutty at ten guineas
a week. Our enjoyments there were drives in an open
carriage within a circuit of ten miles, incessant and de-
lightful walks, and frequent visits to the Crystal Palace^
to reach which was attended by no trouble whatever.

Francis II. has as it were dropped from the throne
of Naples. The red-shirted Garibaldi, unaccompanied
by any military force, steamed from Salerno on the 7th
inst, and entered the Capital without the slightest im-
pediment ; the King sailed off to Graeta ; his fleet and
forces have quietly passed into the filibuster's posses-
sion ; a Sardinian corps landed ; and so ends the crown
of the Two Sicilies without the shedding of a drop of
blood I

Two of Victor Emmanuel's generals, Fanti and
Cialdini, with large armies have suddenly invaded the
Estates of the Church. Cardinal Antonelli rejected
the ultimatum from Turin, — to wit, the disbandment of
Lamoriciere's foreign mercenaries, — and without delay
the invaders have taken Pesaro and Perugia, and appear
sweeping towards Rome. The crisis of Italy has come.
Louis Napoleon is equivocal ; his Minister has with-
drawn from Turin, but has avoided breaking off diplo-
matic intercourse by leaving his Secretary in charge ; he
sends Guyon back to Rome with an additional French
force ; but he intimates only a disposition to secure the
personal safety of the Pope. Austria is collecting an
army of fifty thousand in the neighbourhood of Mantua,
but disclaims all intention to intervene unless Venice
be assailed. Garibaldi affects no forbearance or com*
promise, and speaks of accomplishing his work on the
Quirinal and in the Palace of St. Mark.

The Queen left Balmoral for Holywood yesterday.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 415

She reaches Osborne on Tuesday next, and proceeds
from Gravesend to the Continent on Saturday. Lord
John Russell is published as accompanying her. She
proposes an absence of two or three weeks. The Em-
peror and Empress of France have been visiting Savoy
and Nice, Corsica, and are now probably at Algeria.

London is cold, deserted, and dull; so much the
better, however, for reading and reflection.

i860. September 29. — The discomfiture of Garibaldi
on the 19th inst. on the Volturno, under the walls of
Capua, is a sad blemish on the burnished disc of his
victories ; and it is the first. It was accompanied by the
most alarming indications of a total want of discipline
among his followers : incidents calculated to inspirit the
Neapolitan soldiery at Gaeta, and to make them doubt
the prowess of an adversary before whom they have
been flying and melting away. I look upon it as the
turning-point of a disastrous reaction.

The Conference at Warsaw is said to be postponed
from the 3d to the 20th of October.

Antonelli's protest and complaint on behalf of the
Pope against the Sardinian invasion of his territories is
published. What induces him to withhold excommuni-
cation ? Has he discovered the total inefliciency of the
weapon ?

i860. November 17. — Yesterday the Lord Steward, by
command of the Queen, invited Mrs. Dallas and myself
to Windsor Castle. This, I presume, is a sort of ac-
knowledgment for the handsome reception given to the
Prince of Wales in the United States. His Royal High-
ness got home on Thursday, and the invitation comes the
very day after, equally prompt, graceful, and unequivocal.
On inquiry, I find that no Minister of the United States

41 6 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

has been called to Windsor Castle during the last twenty-
eight years !

i860. November 19. — Returned from Windsor Castle,
reaching home at half-past one.

On arriving at about six on Saturday last, we
were taken to the Castle, and at once ushered intp
the apartments assigned to us. They were in the
tower of Edward the Third, and as beautiful and com-
fortable as royalty could make them. Their furni-
ture, paintings, and arrangements, with their magnificent
lookout upon the park and up the long walk and over
the sentries, engaged us all the time we were there.
We dined with her Majesty and the royal family at eight
o'clock, proceeding up the endless corridor to the draw-
ing-rooms, waiting a short time for the Queen and Prince
Consort, and then going en cavalcade through a suite of
splendid salons to the table. We found gathered to
meet us Lord Palmerston (Lady Palmerston detained
away by illness). Lord and Lady John Russell, Mr. and
Mrs. Van de Weyer, Sir Edmund Head, the Governor
of Canada, Lord Harris, Lord Bentinck, Colonel Bid-
dulph, etc. Invisible music played without ceasing.
After quitting the table, we went into an adjoining parlour,
and conversed in succession with the Queen, the Prince
Consort, and the Prince of Wales, took coffee and tea,
and, according to the invariable form at Buckingham
Palace, we then assembled and seated ourselves in a
circle before her Majesty near a round table. At about
half-past eleven the Queen rose, and with her ladies in
waiting retired, leaving the guests to disperse to their
several lodgements. Our bedstead was splendidly deco-
rated with canopy and gilded carvings ; the bed was as
soft as down, and the covering as light as gorgeous, yet,

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 417

as is my practice on my first night from home, not a
wink could I sleep.

On the morrow, Sunday, we first went to prayers in
the lovely little Queen's Chapel at half-past nine, and
immediately afterwards convened to breakfast in what is
called the Oak Room, every object of furniture and the
wainscoting from the ceiling to the floor being of that
dark-brown wood. On neither of these two occasions
did we meet any of the royal family. At twelve o'clock
we went in the train of the Sovereign to church, in her
chapel, and in her p«w. I was seated immediately
behind her Majesty, on whose left was the Prince Con-
sort, and beyond him the Princess Alice, and on her right
sat one of the young Princes. In an adjoining pew were
the Prince of Wales and others. Both pews were in the
gallery. I should have mentioned that the Duchess of
Sutherland was in attendance from the time we arrived,
and was remarkably attentive to Mrs. Dallas. She and
Lady Calydon, the sister of the Countess of Clarendon,
were, with Lord John Russell, Lord St. Germains, and
Lord Harris, in the same royal pew and in the rear. A
clergyman of the name of Cooke performed the service,
and preached a rather dull sermon, during which the
Prince Consort closed his ey^s and probably slept. At
two o'clock there was lunch in the Oak Room, after
which I engaged Lord Harris to escort me through the
Castle, and obliged him to mount with me to the top of
the great round Tower, an ascent of stairway, spiral, of
three hundred feet. I was rewarded by a noble and
extensive view from that height. This round tower is
not to be surpassed as an object most beautifully pic-
turesque and interesting, as seen from the numerous

windows of the quadrangle. The Hall of St. George,

36*

41 8 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

just now fitting up for theatrical representations, the
Rubens and Tapestry Chamber, the Armoury, etc., were
visited. At lunch it was understood that the royal
family, for the first time this season, would walk upon
the Terrace ; so we all got ready to accompany them.
The day was clear and bright, but exceedingly cold, and
winter overcoats and shawls were resorted to. We found
on reaching the Terrace two bands of military music
collected in the garden below it, and they played all the
time of the walk. The royal group proceeded backwards
and forwards from one end to the other, their guests and
attendants, when the turn at each extremity occurred,
opening uncovered and reforming behind them as they
passed. This continued for half an hour, when all re-
turned into the Castle and separated to their apartments.
This sunning one's self in the eyes of one's subjects, on
the Terrace, may do very well where the sovereign is an
attractive and active lady, but I can hardly conceive any-
thing more awkward in the case of a fat and unpopular
George the Fourth or William the Fourth. To kill time
now we went out of the Castle to the chapel of St.
George, and remained there until it was necessary to
prepare to meet the Queen and family again at dinner.
Mr. and Mrs. Van de Weyer having gone, the arrange-
ment at table was altered. I took in Lady Calydon and
sat next to Princess Alice, who was on the right of the
Prince of Wales. When dinner was over and the Queen
gone, I conversed for some time with the Princes, father
and son, and was gratified at the empressetnent which
they both displayed in expressing their cordial sense of
the American reception. Her Majesty did the same
thing, when we went into the saloon, to Mrs. Dallas
and myself separately, as a sort of farewell. After going

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 419

through the customary coffee, tea, and circle, the evening

closed at half-past eleven. In the morning of Monday,

after breakfasting at ten, we left the Castle and reached

home without accident.

Windsor Castle.
At Breakfast, 19 Nov. i860.

Lord Palmer ston, — They say in some of the French provinces, " Quand
an homme a le malheur de se marier, il faut se d^dommager par le tra-
vail de sa femme !''

On Lago Maggiore two women rowed the boat while their husbands
lounged idly on a bench. " How is this ?" said I. «* Why, you see,"
said one of them, " when a man in this country takes a wife, he buys a
donkey !**

This Windsor Castle, for so many centuries the proud
residence of British monarchy, is by some said to have
been constructed on the dilapidated relics of a fort of
Julius Caesar, and by others to have been built by Wil-
liam the Conqueror. It is very far the most imposing
and suitable palace to be found in England, or, perhaps,
in Europe. Innumerable objects of art, paintings, sculp-
tures, and highly ornamented cabinet works and vases,
are spread through the endless corridor, having reference
to incidents of the present reign. The first time the
Queen — only seventeen years of age — ^presided at a
Privy Council forms an interesting picture. Lord Mel-
bourne, her Guardian and Prime Minister, in the attitude
of addressing her from the farther side of the table.
Then the Duke of Wellington, before the Queen and
Prince Albert, assuming the office of godfather to one
of her infants and presenting a rich jewelled casket,
forms another. The gorgeous representation of the
Coronation makes a third. The portraits and busts of
Popes and Cardinals are numerous and excellent.

I was ^^ unfortunate as to be prevented going out

420 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

shooting with the Prince Consort, as upon his invitation
I had engaged to do on Monday morning. My influenza
recurred with severity, and obliged me to write an
apology.

i860. November 29. — Dined at Lord Palmerston's, — ^a
further recognition of the courtesies shown the Prince of
Wales. At table were the Duke of Newcastle, Lord and
Lady Wodehouse, Lady William Russell, Mr. and Lady
Elizabeth Russell, Mr. W. F. Cowper and Mrs. Cowper,
Sir Roderick Murchison, Mr. Haywood, and Mr. Delane.
On this occasion it was the Duke's turn to pour himself
out on the ovation, "than which," he said, with warmth,
" the world had never witnessed anything more striking."
He described the main features of his tour, and emphati-
cally declared that, from the moment the Prince set his
foot on the soil of the United States to the hour of his
embarking for England at Portland, not the slightest
incident had occurred to mar the general festivity. He
ridiculed the gross misrepresentation as to what occurred
at Richmond, and described it as the lively animation
of good-natured boys who were really pleased with the
unaffected manners of the Prince.

i860. December 3. — ^The news brought by the steamer
from America is exciting. The political storm rages
fiercely in the South, taking a reckless direction for
secession, and produces a financial panic which cannot
pass away without effecting a widespread ruin. The
successful Republican party at the Presidential election
are striving to appease and propitiate, but having, during
the canvass, taken the "irrepressible conflict" ground,
and having had the aid of the Garrisonian Radicals, who
denounce the Constitution as a " League with hell," it
seems natural that the South should regard their defeat

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES. 42 1

as involving a destruction of their property and rightsw
If I could perceive among the leading men in the agita-
tion of the South any staid, judicious statesmen, I should
think the Union lost. I see only such uniformly violent,
effervescing, and unsuccessful ranters as Yancey, Rhett,
Keitt, Toombs, and I conclude that the local movements
will yet be settled by the ballast near the keelson of the
ship.

i860. December 4. — I went to-day to the Clarendon
Hotel to see Lady Stafford, who has requested me to
advise her as to the execution of her will. Poor old lady !
about eighty, I presume; exceedingly averse to spend
her money ; quarrelling with and abusing all her profes-
sional advisers in succession, and making as many wills
as she has &ncies. I insisted upon the correct copying
of the instrument, which had almost as many erasures
and omissions and interlineations as there were lines;
and I sent, somewhat against her economical notions,
for a regular scrivener. He engaged to execute the task
and restore the papers in the course of this evening, and
I promised her ladyship to come to her again to-morrow.

i860. December 5. — Completed and witnessed Lady
Stafford's will. She is one of the most exclusive and
thorough Roman Catholics I have ever encountered.
They should make a saint of her as soon as they realize
her legacies.

The Empress Eugenie, who has been wandering
incog, for her health in Scotland, lunched at Windsor
Castle on Tuesday last, and returned to Paris yesterday.

i860. December 8. — Mr. W. S. Lindsay, who returned
from his tour in the United States by the Persia last
Sunday, called to-day, and entertained me for an hour
with his travels. He says my introductory letters were

422 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

of great service to him ; that he found his way to the
several Chambers of Commerce along the seaboard with-
out difficulty. He is under the impression that he has
achieved a remarkable success, and read me a letter from
Lord Lyons complimenting him strongly upon what he
had effected. On all the points, except opening our
Coast Trade, he represents the administration at Wash-
ington as having promised to transmit to me without
delay instructions to open negotiations here for a con-
vention. Probably the difficulty will be much more
with this government than with mine. At any rate, as
the assent of Parliament will be necessary to many of
the improvements contemplated, my work will fall into
the hands of my successor, for no legislation can be ex-
pected to be matured before midsummer, if then.

Mr. Lindsay is earnest and animated in his admiration
of the United States. The educated intelligence of our
masses particularly struck him. He says the world has
never witnessed so magnificent a throng as welcomed
the Prince of Wales to New York.

i860. December 9. — The news from China is deemed by
Mr. Thomas Baring as rather sad. Two only, Mr. Barker
and Mr. Loch, of the prisoners taken by the Chinese
have been returned ; the remaining four have disappeared,
from bad treatment. The allies have captured Pekin,
burnt the royal palace, and driven the Emperor a fugi-
tive into Tartary. They have thus destroyed all means
of negotiation ; can obtain no compensation for the past,
and have entailed upon themselves a long and profitless
war.

i860. December 15. — Pekin surrendered to the allies
on the 13th of October. The summer palace of the
Emperor underwent a sacking equal to any inflicted by

AT TUB COURT OF ST, JAMES, 423

Cortes on the temples of Montezuma; and yet these
allies are of the civilized races of France and England I

Lord Aberdeen died at one o'clock of the early morn-
ing of the 14th instant.

i860. December 16. — It is announced that peace was
ratified between the allies and Chinese on the 26th of
October last, and Pekin evacuated on the 6th of No-
vember.

i860. December 19. — The message of the President
was sent in to Congress on the 4th instant. I got it yes-
terday. The President has been weighed down by the
vast load he carries ; his sagacity, firmness, and patriot-
ism have given way under the appalling condition of the
country and the violence in his Cabinet. He argues too
much, becomes inconsistent, and does vastly more harm
than good. His propositions of compromise, as stated,
he must know to be impracticable. The Northern States
never will repeal their Personal Liberty statutes while
the Fugitive Slave Law remains in its present shape.
They profess not to be opposed to the Constitution,
but to this statutory form of carrying it into execution.
It undoubtedly has provisions capable of amendment
These provisions may not make it unconstitutional, but
may shock the feelings of many and render it odious. In
order to save the Union, the Committee in the House,
composed of one from each State, should report on this
point, first, an amendment of the law, and, second, the
repeal of the acts founded on it. There should be no
concession asked except upon compensatory ground ; no
victory should be awarded to either section. The idea
of restoring the old Missouri line, itself a palpable viola-
tion of the Constitution, is a weak suggestion. . . .

i860. December 23. — The Arabia brings the news

424 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

that Secretary Cobb has resigned. He goes then to join
the Disunionists, who, in Georgia, object to joints but are
in favor of separate^ secession. Mr. Cobb is forty-five
years of age ; before he becomes sixty, he will have dis-
covered that a good cause is really only injured by vio-
lence, and best promoted by calm and steady action;
he will then have become, for he has ample ability, a safe
American statesman.

The news in no respect diminishes the gloom of affairs
in the United States. The situation is deplorable already,
and worse is in prospect I think it at once proper and
becoming to manifest sympathy with my countrymen in
their present trials. I have, therefore, declined Mr.
Bates's invitation to the New- Year festivities at Sheen.
It is impossible to be merry when one's country is gasp-
ing for breath.

China news is highly interesting. The first Napoleon
has been always condemned by the British press for
despoiling the academies and temples of Italy of their
treasures of art, which he collected in his gallery of the
Louvre. Still, they vindicated the burning of our Capitol
and White House in 1814 by Ross; they bombarded the
superb private residence of Prince Woronzow at Odessa ;
and here they are again, this time conjointly with the
French, avowedly plundering and carrying off the orna-
ments and comforts of an imperial summer palace I War
necessarily leads to excesses, which every effort should be
made to restrict as much as possible. What conceivable
benefit to the cause in which they are engaged could
the allies derive from purloining pictures, statuary, and
articles of novelty ? But such are the two heads of
European civilization. The French have made a sep-
arate convention, after the Treaty of Peace, bargaining

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES. 425

for liberty to carry off coolies (hem!), for a recognition
of Catholicism throughout China, and an indemnity of
twelve millions of dollars ! Pretty well for Louis Napo-
leon, and better, considering his lootings for Marshal
Montauban.

i860. December 25. — Christmas. Fahrenheit stood
this morning eighteen degrees below freezing point. A
rare degree of cold in England, exceeding any we have
felt during our residence in London.

Mr. Cobb resigned the Treasury on the loth instant.
He will greatly strengthen the secession movement in
Georgia. A dissolution of the Union seems imminent,
and, should it occur, will attest and perhaps permanently
establish the supremacy of abolitionism ; for it will be
seen that by the withdrawal of South Carolina, Georgia,
Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana, let alone the other
slave-holding States, Lincoln and the Republican party
will at once be placed in an overwhelming Congressional
majority, and have a clear field to push their principles
to extreme practice. Markoe and Hutchinson, writing
on the same day, agree in drawing a most melancholy
picture of the condition of the country, politically and
financially.

i860. December 29. — Dates and news from New York
to the 15th inst. General Cass had resigned. Governor
Dickinson is mentioned as his successor. So we go,
from one unfit to another more so. My country, my
country, whither in the intoxication of your liberty are
you plunging 1

Skating for several days on the Serpentine ; ice three
or four inches thick. The wind has veered to the south-
east, and a thaw may be expected.

1861. January 5. — Frederick William, whom I saw at

426 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the wedding of his son ,and the Princess Royal, after
acting as Regent since November, 1858, has mounted
the throne, by the death of the old crazy King William
IV., under the name of William V. of Prussia. His
politics are more liberal than his predecessor's.

Brougham publishes in the Times of to-day his brief
correspondence with Redpath, who invites to a consul-
tation how to extinguish slavery in the United States.
The poor old trimmer is backing out, and wants to ab-
dicate his chiefdom of Exeter Hall. This is his second
or third effort to wriggle himself out of the humiliation
consequent upon his fanatical negrophilism at the Statis-
tical Congress.

On Wednesday last the ceremony of again proroguing
Parliament took place in the House of Lords. The
day appointed for meeting is the 5th of February, but
*• for despatch of business " was omitted ; inadvertently,
or by design ?

Mr. Motley, the historian, called and spent an hour in
chat. I expressed my great delight with his recently
issued work, the " Dutch Republic." Told him I had
noted two new spellings, Escorial and Burghley ; the first
he said was unquestionably correct, the second he took
from the Lord Treasurer's uniform mode of signing his
name, though it was spelled very variously. In the
course of conversation he avowed the opinion that
Walsingham, not Burghley, was the great Minister of
Queen Elizabeth, and he thought that Elizabeth had
taken to herself merit and glory which really belonged
to the British people generally. We turned over the
distressing condition of American politics. He is for
saving the Union at almost any sacrifice ; but I thought
I could perceive that he entertained the theory that,

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 427

maintaining the name, the flag, and the Constitution, we
should be happier and equally great without the cotton
States. He is inveterately hostile to slavery. Now that
his two volumes are making him famous, he proposes to
be presented with his wife and daughter at Court. Of
course I shall be proud to gratify his wish in that re-
spect. I think he remembers that the literary fame of
Washington Irving made him charge at this Court and
subsequently Minister at Madrid. Lincoln can give me
no more acceptable successor. The foundations for
such an appointment are more broad, more durable, and
in every way more satisfactory than those of mere polit-
ical partisanship.

1 86 1. January 8. — South Carolina, it appears, adopted
her Ordinance of Secession on the 19th of December,
unanimously. It has been hailed with exultation in
most of the Southern States. Mr. Mason rather inti-
mates that the movement is designed to compel adequate
concessions from the North, or to form a basis upon
which the confederacy may be reconstructed.

The first article of Blackwood's Magazine for this
month, " The Political Year," is one of much ability. Its
purpose is to depreciate the present government by
special attacks on Mr. Gladstone and Lord John Russell.
In the concluding paragraph I find the following : " The
last news from America announces that. Lord John Rus-
sell having complained of the inactivity of the American
cruisers in the suppression of the slave-trade, Mr. Dallas
informed his Lordship, in October last, that ' the British
Foreign Office had better mind its own business.' He
wound up by stating that ' the government at Washington
did not require to be continually lectured as to its duty
by our Foreign Secretary.* Can anything be more

428 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

absurd ? We have a Foreign Secretary who writes letters
and gives good advice to all the world, and who, at one
time, cannot get his effusions answered, at another time
gets snubbed for them, yet again finds them quoted as
authorizing rebellion, and always finds himself doing
more harm than good." It is true, that, on the 24th of
November, I read, as instructed, a despatch from General
Cass, dated the 27th of October, to Lord John Russell.
His Lordship did not like it; said that all Christendom
had condemned the slave-trade, and he had a right to
speak against it. I merely remarked that perhaps the
serenity of the State Department at Washington would
not be disturbed by one or two exhortations, but that
his Lordship must be aware that too frequent recurrences
in diplomatic correspondence to the obligations of hu-
manity imply a neglect of them by those addressed, and
cannot but be unacceptable. When I reported this
matter to the Secretary of State, I added : " English
statesmen generally have a complacent and irrepressible
sense of superior morality, and are apt, without really
meaning incivility, to be prodigal of their inculcations
upon others." Here is the basis of Blackwood*s
remarks.

1 86 1. January 16. — I have been kept for a week, and
am still, in a state of great anxiety about the dangerous
political excitements at home. The President has taken
an attitude less friendly to the secessionists. This has
been owing, it would seem, to the occupation of Fort
Moultrie and the seizure of a revenue cutter, in the har-
bour of Charleston, by the South Carolina authorities.
General Floyd, as Secretary of War, had pledged his
honour to Governor Pickens that there should be no
change in the status of the fortifications in the harbour.

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 429

Major Anderson, in command, with prudent strategy,
shifted his little garrison of twenty men from Fort
Moultrie to Fort Sumter. The South Carolina Com-
missioners at Washington protested, alleging breach of
faith. Floyd demanded orders to Anderson to go back.
The President declined. Governor Pickens sent militia
into Fort Moultrie and seized a United States cutter.
Floyd resigned on 29th of December, and his resignation
was quietly accepted on the 31st by the President, who
appointed Postmaster-General Holt to conduct the de-
partment until a successor was named. The President
has addressed Congress, announced his determination to
protect the property and collect the revenue of the United
States with all the power at his disposal, and is said to
have directed the frigate Brooklyn to be held in readi-
ness at Norfolk, while two revenue cutters are proceeding
to Charleston harbour, on board which a new Collector,
Mclntyre, of Pennsylvania, will exact the duties on im-
ports. In the interim reinforcements are being sent to
Southern garrisons, as a determination to seize them has
shown itself in Georgia, Alabama, and North Carolina.
These facts, if well founded, place the country in immi-
nent risk of civil war ; and if, at the bottom of the whole,
there exist, as Mr. Daniel, our Minister to Turin, vehe-
mently assured me on Monday last was the case, an
immense majority in the South who desire disunion and
have been preparing to accomplish it for twenty years, it
would seem that a sanguinary convulsion is unavoidable.
Perhaps a large movement of militia, similar to the one
made by Washington in 1794 against our Whiskey In-
surrection, would overawe the disaffected and restore
tranquillity. Certainly, South Carolina has taken, by
capturing forts and cutters, a more decisively insurrec-

37*

430 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

tionary character than could be attributed to the dis-
orderly riots of Pennsylvania.

My old friend " Betsey Bonaparte" and her son have
enlisted Berryer and Legrand in a trial to come off on
the 25th inst., before the Court of First Instance in Paris,
asserting the validity of the marriage of Jerome in Balti-
more in 1803, and claiming to share in the property he
has left. If the marriage be sustained, the necessary
result would be the illegitimacy of Prince Napoleon and
Princess Mathilde. Here is fine garbage for Imperial
scandal ! and " Betsey" is not one, though she can't lack
much of eighty, to shrink in the pursuit of money or to
be scared by a crown.

1 86 1. January 20. — If we are in turmoil on the western
side of the Atlantic, they are not much better off on this
eastern side. The King of Prussia has just said to his
general officers in Berlin ; " The aspect of the times is
very serious, and menaces great dangers. Gentlemen,
there is a distinct prospect of struggles in which I shall
need the entire devotion of your hearts. If I and those
other sovereigns wishing for peace do not succeed in
dissipating beforehand the coming thunder-storm, we
shall want the whole of our strength in order to stand
our ground. You will have to strain every nerve if you
wish to render the army adequate to the future calls of
the country. Gentlemen, do not allow yourselves to be
subject to any self-delusion respecting the magnitude of
coming struggles. If I do not succeed in obviating war,
the war will be one in which we shall have either to
conquer or be lost to our position in the world !" What
convulsion is it that thus thunders in the index ? We
hear the cry of " Peace, peace," in every direction, but we
see specially dark clouds in various quarters. Hungary is

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES, 43 X

on the eve of revolt, Denmark is arming to maintain her
rights in Schleswig and Holstein, Italy, under the magi-
cal inspiration of Garibaldi, will insist upon having, as
parts of the temporal sovereignty of Victor Emmanuel,
both Rome and Venice. War upon Austria then would
seem inevitable, and it cannot fail to draw into its vortex
Russia, Prussia, Germany, and. not impossibly, Turkey.
But the words of solemnity used by the monarch involve
a deeper meaning. They refer to the military avalanche
which a breath from Louis Napoleon may precipitate
across the Rhine, — his vast force of six or eight hundred
thousand, his numerous and formidable ships of war, and
his actual position as the chief of the revolutionary
movement The language is portentous, infinitely more
so than the address of Baron Hubner on ist of January,
1859. Where on the face of the earth can the stranger,
Peace, take up her permanent abode ?

The news from home during this week has been de-
plorable. On the loth inst the President sent a message
to Congress which depicts the state of things in the
gloomiest colours. South Carolina, at Charleston, has
fired repeated volleys at a United States transport carry-
ing troops for Major Anderson at Fort Sumter, and has
compelled her to retire. The Brooklyn, a second-class
screw steamer of fourteen guns, and the revenue cutter
Harriet Lane are about to convoy the troops back again
to Charleston on board the Star of the West, and we
may expect our next news to announce a bloody fight,
possibly a bombardment of the city. Seward has made
a speech in the Senate which the Times calls " grand and
conciliatory," but which obviously asserts a determination
to enforce the laws. Servile insurrection, too, seems
contemplated in Virginia, some twenty-five barrels of

432 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

gunpowder having been disinterred from secret hiding-
places.

1 86 1. February 2, — A slight solace to one's anxieties
about home is found in the circumistances brought by
successive steamers during the week. I. The proposi-
tion of Mr. Crittenden, or " The Border States," seems
growing into favour. 2. There was a large minority on
the question of secession before next 4th of March in
the Georgia Convention. 3. The Alabama members of
Congress have been instructed not to quit, but to wait
further advices. 4. The South Carolina Commissioner,
Colonel Hayne, has suspended his demand for the
evacuation of Fort Sumter. 5. Charleston is sufTering
greatly from want of supplies, 6. Major Anderson is
universally applauded. 7. Virginia has adopted as
satisfactory the compromise of Crittenden. 8. Financial
affairs are improving ; the United States stock rose one
per cent.

There would seem to be a most extraordinary depart-
ure from the chivalric honour in public life which has
heretofore characterized Southern gentlemen in the dis-
loyal treachery with which Cobb, Floyd, Thomson,
Thomas, and Trescott have pursued secession in the
very penetralia of Mr. Buchanan's Cabinet. Nothing can
relieve them from the charge of deceit and treachery but
their having apprised the President, on entering his
counsels, that, instead of recognizing as paramount their
allegiance to the Union, they were governed by "a
higher law" of duty to Georgia, Virginia, Mississippi,
Maryland, and South Carolina respectively.

Persigny, recently appointed to the Ministry of the
Interior in Paris, made a popularity-seeking plunge at
his outset in relaxing restrictions on the Press. Sud-

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES, 433

denly he has turned a corner; giving, three days ago,
an " avertissement" to the Courrier de Dimanche^ and
arbitrarily ordering the offensive writer, Ganeseo, out of
the Kingdom ! He says that Ganeseo is a foreigner, and
cannot be allowed to criticise the principle of the Impe-
rial Government

1 86 1. February 6. — Parliament was opened yesterday
by the Queen in person. The military parade, turnout
of royal equipages, and assemblage of Peers, Peeresses,
Bishops, and Judges, were unusually imposing. The
speech was fuller and clearer than common. The para-
graph devoted to the United States was uttered as if
really felt, though I certainly did not do what some of
the newspapers allege, — nod my head with an expression
of misgiving as to a ** satisfactory adjustment."

" Serious differences have arisen among the States of
the North American Union. It is impossible for me not
to look with great concern upon any events which can
affect the happiness and welfare of a people nearly allied
to my subjects by descent, and closely connected with
them by the most intimate and friendly relations. My
heartfelt wish is that these differences may be susceptible
of a satisfactory adjustment.

** The interest which I take in the well-being of the
people of the United States cannot but be increased by
the kind and cordial reception given by them to the
Prince of Wales during his recent visit to the continent
of America.*'

Went to the Commons at eight o'clock, and witnessed
the first scene of what I cannot but regard, for the ex-
isting government, as an inauspicious breach, on reform,
between Lord John Russell and Mr. Bright. The motion
was to amend the reply to the speech by a clause as to

434 ^^^R y OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

the omission of that topic. Forty-six, in a thin house,
voted for it.

1 86 1. February 12. — ^Yesterday's news from home a
shade more promising. The President's message to
Congress on the mediatorial propositions from Virginia
is calmly and judiciously written. It looks to that
State for the preservation of the Union. The Conven-
tion of the Border States, free as well as slave, assembled
on the 30th of January, and we ought now to have its
first movements. There will be a collection of distin-
guished men at it, — Rives, Tyler, Reverdy Johnson, etc.
I fear, however, they are rather effete celebrities than fit
for the moment.

A curious sort of intermediate public counsel, not em-
ployed by either plaintiff or defendant, but seeming to
act and argue as a Judge-Advocate at a Court-Martial,
has addressed an admirable argument to the Bench in
" Betsey Bonaparte's" case at Paris. He seems a repre-
sentative '' pro bono publico r His name is Duvignaux.
Another singular feature of this trial was in allowing a
presumptuous American called Gould to intrude his
written notions as to what was general opinion about the
marriage of Jerome and Betsey with our eminent lawyers
in 1803! How completely this could have been ex-
ploded by the production of my father's written and
elaborate view of the whole matter given to old Mr.
Paterson at the time! I have the rough draft among
his relics.

1 86 1. February 14. — At about ten o'clock p.m., of the
13th instant, Gaeta, in which the young Neapolitan King
Francis H. has long and bravely stood a siege, capitulated
to the Sardinians under Cialdini. So passes into the
shade of exile another dethroned Bourbon !

AT THE COURT OF ST, JAMES, 435

A levee to-day at St. James's Palace. I presented, in
the general circle, Colonel Schaffner, of Kentucky, the
indefatigable explorer of a northern route for a subma-
rine electric cable, from the highest point of Scotland to
France, thence to Ireland, thence to Greenland, and
thence, finally, to Labrador. This plan of four stepping-
points, instead of one vast leap, has its advantages. It
may realize the old phrase, " the longest way round is
the shortest way home."

I dined yesterday with Mr. Croskey, meeting a com-
pany of most interesting gentlemen, about twenty in
number : Admiral Fitzroy, Mr. Dutton, Mr. Scofield, Sir
Edward Beecher, Mr. Rae, Dr. Shaw, Captain Peacock,
etc.

1 86 1. February 16. — Another pamphlet in Paris by
La Gueronniere — «>., by, or with the approval of, the
Emperor — has appeared. It narrows the temporal power
and estate of the Pope to nothing, but keeps the French
force in Rome for the safety of his person. Its title is
" France, Rome, and Italy."

The Duke of Buckingham's historical notices of the
reigns of William IV. and Victoria, and the autobiogra-
phy, letters, etc., of Mrs. Piozzi, have been my reading
for some days. The former is very superficial, a mere
skimming of Hansard and the newspapers ; the latter, by
A. Hayward, Esq., Q.C., is full and entertaining. Both
published since January i, 1861. Hayward takes occa-
sion to give a hit at Macaulay's style of writing history,
which is worthy of extraction, as undoubtedly just : " Ac-
tion, action, action, says the orator; effect, effect, effect,
says the historian. Give Archimedes a place to stand
on, and he would move the world. Give Talleyrand a
line of a man's handwriting, and he would engage to

436 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

ruin him. Give Lord Macaulay a hint, a fancy, an insu-
lated fact or phrase, a scrap of a journal, or the tag-end
of a song, and on it, by the abused prerogative of genius,
he would construct a theory of national or personal char-
acter, which should confer undying glory or inflict indel-
ible disgrace."

1 86 1. February 17. — Mr. Reuter sends me a telegram
from Queenstown of the American news. i. The con-
ference invited by Virginia met on the 4th, and re-as-
sembled with closed doors on the 5th at Washington. 2.
Slidell and Benjamin have withdrawn. 3. A truce be-
tween Lieutenant Slemmer and State forces at Pensacola
Navy- Yard, followed by surrender to latter. 4. North
Carolina resolves unanimously to go with the other slave
States if adjustment fail. 5. United States revenue
cutter Lewis Cass treacherously surrendered to Ala-
bama. 6. Fifty thousand people starving in Kansas.
7. Secession of Texas definitive. 8. The President has
refused to surrender Fort Sumter on Colonel Hayne's
demand; an attack expected. 9. Attempt on Fort
Pickens abandoned. No blood yet spilt.

1 86 1. February 20. — ^The day before yesterday the
" Parliament of Italy" opened its first session at Turin.
A great consummation I giving the noblest immortality
to Victor Emmanuel and Cavour. The i8th of February
must be marked with a white stone.

A levee at St. James's . Palace. Anxious to receive
my mail from home, I remained but five minutes after
passing the Queen. Lord Clyde particularly cordial.

1861. February 21. — Dined with Mr. Thomas Baring.
Mr. Holland, son of Sir Henry, and his wife, daughter
of Sir Charles Trevelyan, Mr. Coolidge, Count Straleski,
etc., were at table. The habeas corpus issued by the

AT THE COURT OF ST. JAMES, 437

Queen's Bench, to Canada, for the fugitive Anderson,
discussed and its correctness negatived. I, of course,
abstained.

At eleven o'clock went to Miss Coutts*s. Spent quite
an interesting half-hour there. The desire to catch up
some news as to the progress of our Revolution gives
me an eager entourage in every salon.

1 861. February 22. — ^Just finished the Duke of Buck-
ingham's two volumes on the " Courts and Cabinets of
William IV. and Victoria." There is a curious note by
the Marquis of L., which says that about 1845, "in
a conversation at the drawing-room with Lord John
Russell, Lord L. asked him what he seriously looked to
in the present state of parties in the opposition, if Sir
Robert Peel, in disgust, was forced to throw up the gov-
ernment. Lord J. replied, he looked only to an American
Constitution for England!^ I make another extract, as it
is one which harmonizes with my own judgment, and,
coming from so stern a Tory as Buckingham, is probably
just " No fair critic of public men can deny that Lord
Palmerston is a statesman of extraordinary resources.
Indeed, his experience, his tact, his judgment, his inex-
haustible good humour, and rare political sagacity, have
maintained his party in power when blunders of- every
kind have most severely tried the patience of the nation."

1 861. February 2^. — Dined to-day at Moreria's, the
Brazilian Minister, and went late to the Premier's.

It is rumoured, though doubted, that at Savannah a
mob has tarred and feathered Mr. Molyneux, the British
Consul. What's the exciting cause of this proceeding?
Have all our Southern friends "eaten of the insane root"?

The arrest and imprisonment in the Mazas jail of
Mires, the great Jew speculator and railroad contractor,

438 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

is producing an immense sensation in Paris. It is sup-
posed that, to avoid disgrace, one of his confederates in
frauds and embezzlement, named Richemont, was led to
commit suicide, and that he himself contemplates pur-
chasing his own security by threatening to disclose facts
which must involve many high personages. The case
reminds one of Law and his South-sea bubble.

Gave notice of my intention to quit my present resi-
dence at the expiration of the year, March 24th. By
that time I shall be ready for recall, and trust it may not
be delayed.

1 86 1. February 28. — On Monday evening last went
with Julia and Sophie to hear M. du Chaillu lecture at
the Royal Geographical Society in Burlington House.
The gathering, ladies as well as gentlemen, was very large.
The walls were hung with portraits of scientific celebrities.
Sir Roderick Murchison, in the absence of Lord Ash-
burton, presided. M. du Chaillu was successful in de-
scribing his various conflicts with gorillas, and in con-
veying a clear idea of the country over which these
beasts are " Lords." He was highly complimented in a
delightful address from Professor Owen, who eloquently
portrayed the resemblances and differences of the human
and gorilla skeletons.

On Tuesday, the 26th, took a family dinner with Mr.
and Mrs. Bates. Professor Owen, who is temporarily
staying there, and young Victor Van de Weyer, with us
four, made a party of six guests. The only poor dinner
I ever ate at Mr. Bates's.

On Wednesday evening went first to Lady Stanley of
Alderley, and second .to the Duke of Somerset's, at the
Admiralty. Not more than twenty minutes at either.

No promising news from home until this morning.

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 439

By the arrival of the Anglo-Saxon at Londonderry, a
telegram announces the fact that the Committee of the
Peace Convention had reported a plan for adjustment,
made up of Crittenden's, Guthrie's, and the Border
States' proposal. If this be approved, the great body of
the Union may be saved ; with a reasonable prospect of
reattracting the eight States which have seceded, and
are now embodied as "The Confederated States of
America." General Jefferson Davis and A. H. Stephens
were inaugurated as President and Vice-President on the
1 8th instant. Query : Were they chosen by popular elec-
tion, or by the Convention only at Montgomery ? Per-
haps they are provisional only, and for a limited time.

1 861. March 2. — Dined with Mrs. Mansfield; General
S. Smith's daughter, Wensleydale, Dutton, Rawlinson,
Rich and wife, young Clifford, etc., were at table. A
crowded party after dinner.

Went at eleven to Earl Stanhope's. Talked with
Motley, Reeve, Murchison, his Lordship, Sir Richard
Airey, etc., etc. In the dining-room, a fine portrait
of old Lord Chesterfield, of an ancestor, and of an an-
cestress, by Sir Peter Lely. A modern painting of the
Duke of Wellington in military scarlet, for which his
Grace sat. Lord Stanhope told me he was about issuing
a volume in continuation of Macaulay's " England."
This, I suppose, is the volume Macaulay had nearly
finished, and of which his niece. Lady Trevelyan, appears
to be the publisher.

1861. March 3. — For the first time. Lady Charlotte
Denison, the Speaker's wife, had a reception in the State
apartments assigned to him in St Stephen's Palace, last
evening. They are extremely rich and beautiful, the
panelling of carved oak, a good deal gilded, and hung

440 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS,

with an interesting series of portraits of the Speakers.
There is a sombre atmosphere about the oak, which,
though impressive and dignified, inspires dejection. I
had long talks with Sir John Pakington, Duke of New-
castle, Mr. Tricoupi, the Speaker, Sir Augustus Clif-
ford.

1 86 1. March 5. — At the Austrian Ambassador's to-
night. He told me of the injunction against the manu-
facturers of the Kossuth bank-notes, which his Emperor
has sued out. There will be great difficulty in maintain-
ing the proceeding. It is confided to Sir Hugh McCal-
mont Cairns.

Prince Napoleon (Plon-Plon) has broken out in the
French Senate and carried the world by storm, in a
four-hours' speech of great power and boldness. He
defended the Dynasty as parvenue, and the Italian policy
of the Emperor, who has congratulated him on his
success and approves the most of his views. This
reminds one of " Single-speech Hamilton."

On the 25th of February a Polish insurrection broke
out prematurely at Warsaw. It was suppressed by the
military guard, who Tcilled some six or seven. The
"nationality" was proclaimed by the flag, amid immense
enthusiasm. The disturbance has continued from day
to day down to the ist instant, and looks very like the
" three glorious days " which drove Charles the Tenth
from Paris. The funerals of the victims rallied immense
assemblages in deep mourning. Next year this move-
ment might have become a great revolution.

The young despotic Emperors are running a race of
Liberalism : the Russian Alexander is completing his
scheme of Serf Emancipation; the Austrian Francis
Joseph has given a representative con.stitution of much

AT THE COURT OF ST JAMES. 441

promise, and Louis Napoleon has reopened the legisla-
tive halls to debate and criticism.

1 86 1. March 7. — Dined with Lampson, for the time
being a resident in a capital house at the farthest end of
Eaton Square. Went at eleven to Lord Chelmsford's
for fifteen minutes. A youthful dance.

The news from home a shade more promising. A
word of meditated coercion in the inaugural of the 4th
instant may be the last nail in the Union's coffin.

1 86 1. March 12. — Letters and newspapers, both in
abundance, from home are gloomier than ever. We may
yet pass through a convulsion only less frightful than
the revolution of 1789 in France.

1861. March 16. — The Duchess of Kent, the Queen's
mother, died this morning, in her seventy-fifth year.
Away go all further drawing-rooms, levees, and other
palatial gayeties for this season. As possibly we shall
not have an opportunity to see Queen Victoria again
before quitting for home, I am somewhat pleased that
we met her in her open carriage yesterday afternoon in
Hyde Park and received her kind smile and bow. The
Duchess was sister of the present King of Belgium, and,
I believe, aunt of the Queen of Portugal ; so, three Royal
Courts are in deep mourning.

1 86 1. March 17. — A long and interesting telegram by •
the America. The Inauguration on the 4th had gone
oflF without disturbance of any kind, in the presence of
some thirty thousand persons. Mr. Lincoln's address
was both firm and mild, — firm against the constitutionality
of secession, mild in assurances and language. Nothing
in the telegram about convening the new Congress, nor
about the new Tariff bill, though he noticed the passage
of Corwin's resolution to amend the Constitution by ex- -

442 DIARY OF GEORGE MIFFLIN DALLAS.

pressly prohibiting Congress from meddling with slavery
in the States, and approved it.

1 86 1. March 20. — Dr. Hitchcock, of California, the
surgeon of Greneral Taylor at the battle of Buena Vista,
who saved the life of Jeff. Davis by extracting from the
wound he received a piece of steel of a spur and part of
its leather strap, brought me direct from Secretary Black
a despatch instructing me to oppose any recognition by
this Government of a Minister from the Confederate
States. . . I immediately asked an interview with Lord
John Russell. As this despatch relates to high questions
of domestic politics, and is dated as late as the 28th of
February, only three days before the Inauguration, it
suggests the possibility of its having been sanctioned by
Mr. Lincoln, for his inaugural speaks to the same effect.

Macaulay's fifth volume, edited by Lady Trevelyan, is
just out, and is a brilliant specimen o{ picturesque history.
His sketch of Peter the Great and his development of
the rival pretensions to the Spanish succession are ad-
mirable in every way.

1 86 1. March 24. — Curious ! Lord Palmerston has ap-
pointed himself to the Wardenship of the Cinque Ports,
and is obliged to be re-elected for Tiverton 1 No pay !

1 86 1. April 28. — I have repeatedly observed on the
utter impossibility of keeping a diary without long
chasms. More than a month has gone by, and an event-
ful one, too, without my dotting a single item I I must
brush up and try to preserve the features of my few days
for remaining in this great country, which, while com-
manding my highest admiration, I find, after five years
of trial, I do not and cannot like.

I went last night to Cambridge House. Lord Palmer-
ston has emerged from the tortures of the gout, and is

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