Class ^ 3J2j
the
DIARY
OF
GEORGE WASHINGTON,
FROM 1789 TO 1791 ;
EMBUACING
THE OPENING OF THE FIRST CONGRESS,
AND
HIS TOURS THROUGH NEW ENGLAND, LONG ISLAND,
AND THE SOUTHERN STATES.
TOGETHER WITH
HIS JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE OHIO,
IN 1753.
Edited by Benson J. Lossing.
RICHMOND:
PRESS OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY.
1861.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S60,
By CHAELES B. RICHARDSON & CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.
-b*'*^
RENNIE, SHEA 4 LINDSAY, R. CRAIGHEAD,
6TEREOTYPER8 AND EleCTROTYPERS. Printer,
81, 83 & 85 Centre-street, 81,83 & 85 Centkk-st.
New York.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
It has been truthfully said that posterity loves details. When
we contemplate the men who have lived before us, and left
imprest f' their acts upon the social aspect of the genera-
tion in .1 they moved, we feel a great desire to become
acquainted with the details of their daily lives, — how they spent
their time not devoted to those public duties which have given
them a title to a place in history, what were their recreations
in times of leisure, and who were their family associates and
their chosen companions in private. Historic men really form
a part of our own being, for the man of to-day is only the more
complete man of a thousand years ago, made so by the inter-
vening experiences. In this unity, felt, even though not com-
prehended by us all, doubtless lies the secret spring of our
yearnings for knowledge respecting the past life of the race
which render History and Biography specially attractive.
Of all the records of men's doings, none possess so lively an
interest, because so evidently truthful, as Diaries — the current
history of the common every-day life of the men who made the
chronicles of moving events, even while the majestic procession
of the hours was passing by. In these, Posterity iinds those
details it so much loves. The general historian must necessari-
ly omit many of' them ; and the biographer too often leaves
them unnoticed while unfolding to view the public acts of his
subject. And so the world loses the best elements of history,
b DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
by which one age may judge philosophically of the character of
another, as revealed by the knowledge of their common life.
There is a continual and rapidly growing desire in the hearts
of Americans to know more and more of the life and character
of Washington, in all its minute details. We listen with the
most eager attention to the words of revered men (now so few)
who have seen the Father of his Country ; and the memory
receives these narratives so perfectly, that, amid the thousand
other impressions, they are never effaced. Fortunately for
posterity, Washington was eminently a man of method. He
was careful about small things as well as great; and it was his
custom, from early years, to make a record of the events of his
daily life, for future reference. This habit he continued until
the close of his life ; and these notes, kept in books of convenient
size for carrying in the pocket, furnish some of the most interest-
ing pictures of the habits and modes of thinking of the beloved
Hero and Sage, that have come down to us. Many of them
have disappeared, and are doubtless lost forever. Like the
Sibylline leaves, they are becoming more precious as their
numbers decrease ; and we ought to take special care that the
contents of those that remain shall not be lost. To do this, the
agency of the printing-press must be evoked in multiplying
copies, in numbers sufficient to guarantee the preservation of
the precious words.
The Diaries printed in the following pages, constitute some
of the most important of Washington's private records, being
made while he and his compatriots were arranging and putting
in motion the machinery of our federal government. They
are comprised in two little volumes, numbered respectively, 13,
and 14. They are oblong in form, about four inches in width,
and six inches in length, and contain from sixty to eighty
leaves.
All of Washington's earlier diaries were kept on the blank
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 7
leaves of the Virginia Almanac, "Printed and sold by Purdie
and Dixon, Williamsburg.'' Later ones were kept in other
pocket almanacs. The greater portion of his diaries are in the
office of the rolls, State Department, Washington City. Those
printed in this volume, are in private hands. A few illustrative
and explanatory notes have been inserted to render some ob-
servations clearer to the reader.
B. J. L.
New York, July, 1860.
DIAEY
THE 1st DAY OF OCTOBER, 1789,
THE 1st OF JUNE, 1791.
OCTOBER, 1789.
Thursday, 1st.
Exercised in my carriage in the forenoon.
The following company dined here to-day, viz:
Mr. Read, of the Senate, Col0- Bland and Mr. Madison,
of the House of Representatives, Mr. Osgood and his lady,
Col0- Duer, his lady and Miss Brown, Col0- Lewis Morris and
lady, lady Christiana Griffin and her daughter, and Judge
Duane and Mrs. Greene.1
Mr. Thomas Nelson joined my family this day.
Dispatched many of the Com'ns for the Judiciary
Judges, Marshalls, and Attorneys this day, with the Acts.
Friday, 2d.
Dispatching Commissions, &c, as yesterday, for the
Judiciary.
The visitors to Mrs. Washine;ton this evening were not
numerous.
Saturday, 3d.
Sat for Mr. Rammage near two hours to-day, who was
drawing a miniature Picture of me for Mrs. Washington.2
AValked in the afternoon, and sat about two o'clock for
Madam de Brehan, to complete a miniature profile of me,
1 The widow of General Nathaniel Greene.
i John Rummage was a native of Ireland. He married a ladv in
12 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
which she had begun from memory, and which she had
made exceedingly like the original.3
Sunday, 4th.
Went to St. Paul's Chappel4 in the forenoon. Spent the
remainder of the day in writing private letters for to-mor-
row's Post.
Monday, 5th.
Dispatched the Commissions to all the Judges of the
Supreme and District Courts ; and to the Marshalls and
Attorneys — and accompanied them with all the Acts re-
specting the Judiciary Department.
Exercised on horseback between the hours of 9 and 11 in
the forenoon, and between 5 and 6 in the afternoon, on foot.
Boston, and went to Halifax with the British troops in the spring of
1776. Early in 1777, he established himself as a miniature painter, in
William-street, New York, where he "continued to paint all the mili-
tary heroes or beaux of the garrison, and all the belles of the place,"
says Dunlap. For many years after the war, he continued to be the
best miniature-painter in New York, and occasionally made crayon or
pastil sketches of life size. He died soon after painting the miniature
of Washington.
3 This was the Marchioness de Brehan (or Brienne), sister of the
Count de Moustier, Minister from France, who, with her son, accom-
panied her brother to this country. They all visited Mount Vernon in
the autumn of 1788. The " miniature in profile" of the first President
which she made in New York, was engraved in Paris, and several im-
pressions of it were sent to Washington the following summer. See
Count de Moustier's letter to Washington, May 11, 1790, and Washing-
ton's letter to the Count, November 1, 1790, in Sparks' Life and Writ-
ing's of Washington.
4 Washington's pew in St. Paul's chapel was on the north side, under
the gallery, about halfway between the chancel and the vestry room.
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 13
Had conversation with Col0- Hamilton on the propri-
ety of my making a tour through the Eastern States during
the recess of Congress, to acquire knowledge of the face of
the Country, the growth and agriculture thereof — and the
temper and disposition of the inhabitants towards the new
government, who thought it a very desirable plan, and ad-
vised it accordingly.
Tuesday, 6th.
Exercised in a carriage with Mrs. Washington in the
forenoon.
Conversed with Gen. Knox, Secretary at War, on the
above tour, who also recommended it accordingly.
Signed Letters of Instructions to the Governor of the
Western Territory respecting the situation of matters in that
quarter. And authorized him, in case the hostile disposi-
tion of the Indians was such as to make it necessary to call
out the Militia, and time would not allow him to give me
previous notice of it, to apply to the States of Virginia and
Pennsylvania for a number not exceeding 1,500; one
thousand of which to be taken from the former, and five
hundred from the latter.
Wednesday, *7th.
Exercised on horseback, and called on the Vice-President.
In the afternoon walked an hour.
Mr. Jay communicated the purpt. of the Instructions re-
ceived by Sir John Temple, British Consul, from the Duke
of Leeds, Secretary for Foreign Affairs, viz :
Trade. How many foreign vessels — of what nations —
whether from Europe or their Colonies.
14 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
What tonnage — whether any and what difference between
British and others — what on American.
"What Port charges on foreign vessels — whether any and
what difference, &c.
What duties on foreign goods — whether any and what
difference as to the Countries producing, and vessels
bringing them — number of vessels built, where, &c.
Staple Commodities. — Whether they encrease or dimin-
ish— which — in what degree — and why.
Manufactures — what — where — whether and how encour-
aged.
Emigrations — From Europe, in what numbers — from
where — whether and how encouraged, &c. — from Uni-
ted States — to British and Spanish territories, &c.
Population — whether generally, or partially encreasing,
or diminishing, and from what causes.
Justice — Whether there be any, and what obstructions,
and where, to the recovery of British Debts according
to treaty.
Upon consulting Mr. Jay on the propriety of my intended
tour into the Eastern States, he highly approved of it, but
observed, a similar visit w'd be expected by those of the
Southern.5
With the same gentleman I had conversation on the pro-
s Washington visited the Southern States in the spring of 1791. He
set out from Mount Vernon early in April, and was gone three months,
during which time he performed a journey of about nineteen hundred
miles, with the same span of horses. He followed the seaboard to Sa-
vannah, visited Augusta, and returned by way of the interior of the
Carolinas and Virginia.
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 15
priety of tak'g informal means of ascertaining the views
of the British Court with respect to our Western Posts in
their possession, and to a Commercial treaty. He thought
steps of this sort advisable, and mentioned as a fit person
for this purpose, a Doctr. Bancroft,6 as a man in whom en-
tire confidence might be placed.
Col0- Hamilton on the same subject highly approved of
the measure, but thought Mr. Gouv'r. Morris well qualified.
Thursday, 8th.
Mr. Gardoqui7 took leave, proposing to embark to-mor-
row for Spain.
The following company dined with me to-day, viz :
The Vice-President, his lady and son and her niece, with
their son-in-law, Col0' Smith and his lady — Governor Clin-
ton and his two eldest daughters — Mr. Dalton and his lady,
their son-in-law, Mr. Dubois, and his lady, and their other
three daughters.
In the evening, the Count de Moustier and Madam de
Brehan came in and sat an hour.
Mr. Madison took his leave to-day. He saw no impro-
6 Edward Bancroft, M. D., was an American by birth, but settled as
a physician in London. He was intimate with Dr. Franklin, and a
friend to the American cause during the war for Independence. He
was with Silas Deane, in Paris, for some time ; and in the diplomatic
operations of the United States, during the war, he was an efficient aux-
iliary. Dr. Bancroft was a Fellow of the Koyal Society of London, and
gained much repute as author of " An Essay on the Natural History of
Guiana," and "Experimental Researches concerning the Philosophy
of Permanent Colors."
7 Spanish diplomatic agent, who came to the United States in 1785.
16 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
priety in my trip to the eastward ; but with respect to the
private agent to ascertain the disposition of the British
Court with respect to the Western Posts and a Commercial
treaty, he thought if the necessity did not press, it would
be better to wait the arrival of Mr. Jefferson, who might
be able to give the information wanted on this head — and,
with me thought that if Mr. Gouv'r. Morris was employed
in this business, it would be a commitment for his appoint-
ment as Minister, if one should be sent to that Court, or
wanted at Versailles in place of Mr. Jefferson, and more-
over if either of these was his wish, whether his represent-
ations might not be made with an eye to it. He thought
with Col0- Hamilton, and as Mr. Jay also does, that Mr.
Morris is a man of superior talents — but with the latter
that his imagination sometimes runs ahead of his judgment
— that his manners before he is known, and where known,
had created opinions of himself that were not favourable to
him, and which he did not merit.8
Friday, 9th.
Exercised on horseback between the hours of 9 and 11.
Visited in my route the gardens of Mr. Perry and Mr. Wil-
liamson.9
8 Mr. Morris was then in France, but not in any official capacity.
He was intrusted with the business alluded to, and Washington pre-
pared the necessary credentials for him on the 13th of October.
9 Perry's garden was on the west side of the Bloomingdale road, west
of the present Union Square, and occupied the ground whereon the
Church of the Puritans and other edifices now stand. Williamson's
was a flower and nursery garden, and a place of public resort, on the
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 17
Received from the French Minister, in person, official no-
tice of his having reed, leave to return to his Court, and
intended embarkation — and the orders of his Court to make
the following communication, viz :
That his Majesty was pleased at the alteration which had
taken place in our Government, and congratulated this
Country on the choice they had made of a Presid't.
He added that he should take care to make a favourable
representation of the present state of things here to his
Master, who, he doubted not, would be much pleased there-
with. Hitherto he observed that the Government of this
Country had been of so fluctuating a nature, no dependence
could be placed on its proceedings ; wh'h caused foreign
nations to be cautious of entering into Treaties, &c, with
the United States. But under the present Government
there is a head to look up to — and power being put into
the hands of its officers, stability will be derived from its
doings.
The visiters this evening to Mrs. Washington were re-
spectable, both of gentlemen and ladies.
Saturday, 10th.
Pursuant to an engagement formed on Thursday last, I
set off about 9 o'clock in my barge to visit Mr. Prince's
fruit gardens and shrubberies at Flushing, on Long Island.
The Vice-President, Governor of the State, Mr. Izard, Col0,
Smith, and Majr. Jackson accompanied me.
east side of Greenwich-street, extending about three squares up fronj
Harrison-street.
18 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
These gardens, except in the number of young fruit trees,
did not answer ray expectations. The shrubs were trifling,
and the flowers not numerous.
The inhabitants of this place shewed us what respect
they could, by making the best use of one cannon to salute.
On our return we stopped at the seats of General and
Mr. Gouvernr. Morris, and viewed a barn, of which I have
heard the latter speak much, belonging to his farm — but it
was not of a construction to strike my fancy — nor did the
conveniences of it at all answer their cost. From hence
we proceeded to Harlaem, where we were met by Mrs,
Washington, Mrs. Adams and Mrs. Smith. Dined at the
tavern kept by a Capt. Mariner,10 and came home in the
evening.
Sunday, 11th.
At home all day — writing private letters.
Monday, 12th.
Received the compliments of the Count de Penthere,
commanding his most Christian Majesty's Squadron in the
harbour of Boston — these were sent by the Marquis de Tra-
versy in the Active Frigate ; who, with all his officers
were presented by the French Minister at one o'clock.
10 Captain Marriner was an eccentric character, and was associated
with Captain Hyler in whale-b<>at warfare in the vicinity of New York,
during a part of the ^Revolution. On one occasion he was concerned
in an attempt to capture Mayor Mathews and other violent Tories, who
resided at Flatbush, near Brooklyn. Marriner lived at Harlem and ou
Ward's Island, for many years after the war, and kept a tavern at eaclj
place.
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 19
Tuesday, 13th.
At two o'clock received the Address from the People
called Quakers.
A good many gentlemen attended the Levee this day.
Wednesday, 14th.
"Wrote several letters to France, and about V o'clock in
the afternoon made an informal visit with Mrs. Washington
to the Count de Moustier and Madame de Brehan, to take
leave of them. Into the hands of the former I committed
these letters, viz : to the Count de Estaing, Count de Ro-
chambeau, the Marqs. de la Fayette and the Marqs. de la
Rouirie.
Having resolved to write to Mr. Gouvr. Morris, to request
as a private agent that he wTd. sound the intention of the
British Ministry with respect to their fulfilment of the
Treaty — and dispositions towards a Commercial Treaty
with us, the letters were prepared and lodged in the hands
of Mr. Jay to forward.
Thursday, loth.
Commenced my Journey about 9 o'clock for Boston and
a tour through the Eastern States.
The Chief Justice, Mr. Jay — and the Secretaries of the
Treasury and War Departments accompanied me some dis-
tance out of the city. About 10 o'clock it began to Rain,
and continued to do so till 11, when we arrived at the
house of one Hoyatt, who keeps a Tavern at Kings-bridge,
where we, that is, Major Jackson, Mr. Lear and myself,
with six servants, which composed my Retinue, dined
20 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
After dinner, through frequent light showers we proceecTd
to the Tavern of a Mrs. Haviland at Rye ; who keeps a
very neat and decent Inn.
The Road for the greater part, indeed the whole way,
was very rough and stoney, but the Land strong, well cov-
ered with grass and a luxuriant crop of Indian Corn inter-
mixed with Pornpions (which were yet ungathered) in the
fields. We met four droves of Beef Cattle for the New
York Market, (about 30 in a drove) some of which were
very fine — also a flock of Sheep for the same place. We
scarcely passed a farm house that did not abd. in Geese.
Their Cattle seemed to be of a good quality, and their hog?
large, but rather long legged. No dwelling house is seen
without a Stone or Brick Chimney, and rarely any with-
out a shingled roof —generally the sides are of shingles also.
The distance of this day's travel was 31 miles, in which
we passed through (after leaving the Bridge) East Chester,
New Rochelle, and Mamaroneck; but as these places
(though they have houses of worship in them) are not regu-
larly laid out, they are scarcely to be distinguished from
the intermediate farms, which are very close together — and
separated, as one Inclosure from another also is, by fences
of stone, which are indeed easily made, as the country is
immensely stoney. Upon enquiry we find their crops of
Wheat and Rye have been abundant — though of the first
they had sown rather sparingly on acct. of the destruction
which had of late years been made of that grain by what
is called the Hessian fly.11
11 A small two-winged fly or midge, which has long been very de-
structive to young wheat in the United States. It lias now almost dis-
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 21
Friday, 16th.
About 1 o'cloek we left the Widow Haviland's, and after
passing Horse Neck, six miles distant from Rye, the Road
through which is hilly and immensely stoney, and trying
to Wheels and Carriages, we breakfasted at Stamford,
which is 6 miles further, (at one Webb's,) a tolerable good
house, but not equal in appearance or reality to Mrs. Havi-
land's. In this Town are an Episcopal Church and a meet-
ing house. At Norwalk, which is ten miles further, we
made a halt to feed our Horses. To the lower end of this
town Sea Vessels come, and at the other end are Mills,
Stores, and an Episcopal and Presbiterian Church.
From hence to Fairfield, where we dined and lodged, is
12 miles; and part of it very rough Road, but not equal to
that thro' Horse Neck. The superb Landscape, however,
which is to be seen from the meeting house of the latter is
a rich regalia. We found all the Farmers busily employed
in gathering, grinding, and expressing the Juice of their
apples ; the crop of which they say is rather above medioc-
rity. The average crop of Wheat they add, is about 15
bushels to the acre from their fallow land — often 20, and
from that to 25. The Destructive evidences of British
cruelty are yet visible both in Norwalk and Fairfield ; aa
there are the chimneys of many burnt houses standing in
them yet'2 The principal export from Norwalk and Fair-
appeared. It was a common opinion that it was brought from Europe
by the Hessians, as the German troops were called, who came over in
the pay of Great Britain, in 1776.
12 These, with Danbuay, were desolated by a force of British, Hes-
sians, and Tories, under Governor Tryon, in 1777.
22 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
field is Horses and Cattle — salted Beef and Pork — Lumber
and Indian Corn, to the West Indies, and in a small degree
Wheat and Flour.
Saturday, l'Tth.
A little after sun-rise we left Fairfield, and passing
through Et. Fairfield breakfasted at Stratford, wch. is ten
miles from Fairfield, and is a pretty village on or near Strat-
ford Rivr. The Road between these two places is not on
the whole bad (for this country) — in some places very gd.,
especially through Et. Fairfield, wch. is in a plain, and free
from stone.
There are two decent looking Churches in this place,
though small, viz : an Episcopal, and Presbyterian or Con-
gregationalist (as they call themselves). At Stratford there
is the same. At this place I was received with an effort
of Military parade ; and was attended to the Ferry, which
is near a mile from the center of the Town, by sevl. Gen-
tlemen on horseback. Doctr. Johnson13 of the Senate, vis-
ited me here, being with Mrs. Johnson in this Town,
(where he formerly resided). The Ferry is near half a
mile ; and sometimes much incommoded by winds and
cross tides. The navigation for vessels of about 75 Tons
extends up to Danby, ten miles higher, where it is said
there is a pretty brisk trade. At Stratford they are estab-
13 William Samuel Johnson, ll. d., who was a member of the "Stamp
Act Congress," held at New York, in 1705, and was active in public
lit'r for about forty years. He was a member of the convention that
framed the Federal Constitution ; was the first Senator from Connec-
ticut in the new Congress ; and was President of Columbia College from
1792 until 1S00.
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 23
lisliing a manufactory of Duck, and have lately turned
out about 400 bolts. From the Ferry it is abt. 3 miles to
Milford, which is situated in more uneven and stony grd.
than the 3 last villages through web. we passed. In this
place there is but one Church, or in other words, but one
steeple — but there are Grist and Saw mills, and a handsome
Cascade over the Tumbling dam ; but one of the prettiest
things of this kind is at Stamford, occasioned also by dam-
ming the water for their mills ; it is near 100 yds. in width,
and the water now being of a proper height, and the rays
of the sun striking upon it as we passed, had a pretty effect
upon the foaming water as it fell. From Milford we took
the lower road through West haven, part of which was
good and part rough, and arrived at New Haven before two
o'clock ; we had time to walk through several parts of the
City before Dinner. By taki g the lower Road we missed
a Committee of the Assembly, who had been appointed to
wait upon and escort me into town — to prepare an address
— and to conduct me when I should leave the City as tar
as they should judge proper. The address was presented
at V o'clock — and at nine I received another address from
the Congregational Clergy of the place. Between the rect.
of the two addresses I received the Compliment of a visit
from the Govr. Mr. Huntington — the Lieut. Govr. Mr.
Wolcott — and the Mayor, Mr. Roger Sherman.
The City of Newdiaven occupies a good deal of ground,
but is thinly, though regularly laid out and built. The
number of Souls in it are said to be about 4000. There is
an Episcopal Church and 3 Congregational Meeting Houses
and a College, in which there are at this time about 120
24 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Students under auspices of Doctr. Styles. The Harbour of
this place is not good for large vessels — abt. 16 belong to
it. The Linnen manufacture does not appear to be of so
much importance as I had been led to believe. In a word,
I could hear but little of it. The Exports from this City
are much the same as from Fairfield, &c, and flax seed,
(chiefly to New York). The Road from Kingsb ridge to
this place runs as near the Sound as the Bays and Inlets
will allow, but from hence to Hartford it leaves the Sound
and runs more to the Northward.
Sunday, 18th.
Went in the forenoon to the Episcopal Church, and in
the afternoon to one of the Congregational Meeting-
Houses. Attended to the first by the Speaker of the As-
sembly, Mr. Edwards, and a Mr. Ingersoll, and to the latter
by the Governor, the Lieut. Governor, the Mayor, and
Speaker.
These Gentlemen all dined with me, (by invitation,) as
did Genl. Huntington, at the House of Mr. Brown, where I
lodged, and who keeps a good Tavern. Drank Tea at the
Mayor's (Mr. Sherman). Upon further enquiry I find that
there has been abt. yards of coarse Linnen manu-
factured at this place since it was established — and that a
Glass work is on foot here for the manufacture of Bottles.
At 7 o'clock in the evening many Officers of this State, be-
longing to the late Continental army, called to pay their
respects to me. By some of them it was said that the peo-
ple of this State could, with more ease pay an additional
100,000£. tax this year than what was laid last year.
DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 25
Monday, 19th.
Left New-haven at 6 o'clock, and arrived at Wallingford
(13 miles) by half after 8 o'clock, where we breakfasted,
and took a walk through the Town. In coming to it we
passed thro' East Haven about midway ; after riding along
the river of that name 6 miles, on which are extensive
marshes now loaded with hay stacks — the ride is very
pleasant, but the Road is sandy, which it continues to be
within a mile of the Tavern (Carrington's, which is but an
ordinary house,) at Wallingford. This and about five miles
of the Road beyond — that is west of New-haven — is all the
sand we have met with on the journey. These Sandy lands
afford but ordinary Crops of Corn — nor have the Crops of
this grain East of Stratford River appeared as heavy as on
the West side of it. The Lands (Stone being less) arc in
part enclosed with Posts and Rails. At this place (Walling-
ford) we see the white Mulberry growing, raised from the
seed, to feed the silkworm. AVe also saw samples of lus-
tring (exceeding good) which had been manufactured from
the Cocoon raised in this Town, and silk thread very fine.
This, except the weaving, is the work of private families,
without interference with other business, and is likely to
turn out a beneficial amusement. In the Township of
Mansfield they are further advanced in this business. Wal-
lingford has a Church and two meeting houses in it, which
stand upon high and pleasant grd. About 10 o'clock we
left this place, and at the distance of 8 miles passed through
Durham. At one we arrived at Middletown, on Connecti-
cut River, being met two or three miles from it by the re-
26 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
spectable Citizens of the place, and escorted in by them.
While dinner -was getting ready I took a walk round the
Town, from the heights of which the prospect is beautiful.
Belonging to this place, I was informed (by a Genl. Sage)
that there were about 20 sea vessels, and to Weathersfield,
higher up, 22 — and to Hartford the like number — other
places on the River have their proportion, — the whole
amounting to about 10,000 Tons.
The Country hereabouts is beautiful and the Lands good.
An average Crop of wheat from an acre of fallowed land is
estimated at 15 bushels; sometimes they get as high as
25 and 30 bushs. to the acre from the best lands. Indian
Corn from 20 to 40 bushls. pr. acre. Their exports are
the same as from other places ; together with Potash.
Having dined, we set out with the same Escort (who con-
ducted us into town) about 3 o'clock for Hartford, and pass-
ing through a Parish of Middletown and Weathersfield, we
arrived at Harfd. about sundown. At Weathersfield we
were met by a party of the Hartford light horse, and a
number of Gentlemen from the same place with Col0* Wads-
worth at their head, and escorted to Bull's Tavern, where
we lodged.
Tuesday, 20th.
After breakfast, accompanied by Col0* Wadsworth, Mr.
Ellsworth and Col0- Jesse Root, I viewed the Woollen
Manufactory at this place, which seems to be going on with
spirit. Their Broadcloths are not of the first quality, as
yet, but they are good; as are their Coatings, Cassimeres,
Serges and Everlastings ; of the first, that is, broad-cloth, I
NORTHERN TOUR. 27
ordered a suit to be sent to me at New York — and of the
latter a whole piece, to make breeches for my servants. All
the parts of this business are performed at the Manufactory
except the spinning — this is done by the Country people,
who are paid by the cut.
Hartford is more compactly built than Middletown, and
contains more souls ; the computed number of which amount
to about dble. The number of Houses in Middletown are
said to be 250 or 60 — these reckoning eight persons to a
house, would make two thousand at least. The depth of
water which Vessels can bring to the last place, is about
ten feet ; and is as much as there is over Saybrook bar.
From Middletown to Hartford there is not more than 6 feet
water. At Middletown there is one Episcopal and two Con-
gregational Churches. In Hartford there is none of the
first and 2 of the latter.
Dined and drank Tea at Col"' Wadsworth's, and about V
o'clock received from, and answered the Address of, the
Town of Hartford.
Wednesday, 21st.
By promise I was to have Breakfasted at Mr. Ellsworth's
at Windsor, on my way to Springfield, but the morning
proving very wet, and the rain not ceasing till past 10
o'clock, I did not set out till half after that hour ; I called,
however, on Mr. Ellsworth and stay'd there near an hour —
reached Springfield by 4 o'clock, and while dinner was get-
ting, examined the Continental Stores at this place, which
I found in very good order at the buildings (on the hill
above the Town) which belong to the United States.
28 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
The Barracks (also public property) are going fast to de-
struction, and in a little time will be no more, without re-
pairs. The Elaboratory, wch. seems to be a good building,
is in tolerable good repair, and the Powder Magazine, which
is of Brick, seems to be in excellent order, and the Powder
in it very dry. A Col0- Worthington, Col0- Williams, Ad-
jutant General of the State of Massachusetts, Gen. Shep-
herd, Mr. Lyman, and many other Gentlemen sat an hour
or two with me in the evening at Parson's Tavern, where I
lodged, and which is a good House. About 6 miles before
I came to Springfield, I left the State of Connecticut, and
entered that of Massachusetts. The Distance from Hart-
ford to Springfield is 28 miles — both on Connecticut River.
At the latter the River is crossed in Scows set over with
Poles, and is about 80 rod wide. Between the two places
is a fall, and ten miles above Springfield is another fall, and
others above that again — notwithstanding which much use
is made of the navigation for transportation in flats of about
five tons burthen. Seven miles on this side Hartford is
Windsor, a tolerable pleasant but not a large village. Be-
tween Windsor and Suffield you pass through a level, bar-
ren and uncultivated plain for several miles. Suffield
stands high and pleasant — the Ld. good. From hence you
descend again into another plain, where the lands being
good are much better cultivated. The whole Road from
Hartford to Springfield is level and good, except being too
sandy in places — and the Fields enclosed with Posts and
Rails generally, there not being much stone. The Crops
of Corn, except on the Interval Lands on the River, are
more indifferent (tho' not bad) in the Eastern than we
NORTHERN TOUR. 29
found them in the Western part of the State of Connec-
ticut.
There is a great equality in tlse People of this State
Few or no opulent men — and no poor — great similitude in
their buildings — the general fashion of which is a Chimney
(always of Stone or Brick) and door in the middle, with a
stair case fronting the latter, running up by the side of the
latter [former?] — two flush stories with a very good show
of sash and glass windows — the size generally is from 30 to
50 feet in length, and from 20 to 30 in width, exclusive of
a back shed, which seems to be added as the family in-
creases.
The farms, by the contiguity of the Houses, are small,
not averaging more than 100 acres. These are worked
chiefly by oxen, (which have no other feed than hay,) with
a horse and sometimes two before them, both in Plow and
Cart. In their light lands and in their sleighs they work
Horses, but find them much more expensive than oxen.
Springfield is on the East side of Connecticut River ; be-
fore you come to which a large branch of it called Agawam
is crossed by a Bridge. It stands under the Hill on the
interval Land, and has only one Meeting house — 28 miles
frm. Hartfd.
Thursday, 22d.
Set out at 7 o'clock ; and for the first 8 miles rid over
an almost uninhabited Pine plain ; much mixed with sand.
Then a little before the road descends to Chicopee river it
is hilly, rocky and steep, and continues so for several
miles ; the Country being Stony and Barren ; with a mix-
30 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
ture of Pine and Oak till we came to Palmer, at the House
of one Scott, where we breakfasted ; and where the land,
though far from good, began to mend ; to this is called 15
miles — among these Pines, are Ponds of fresh water.
From Palmer to Brookfield, to one Hitchcock's, is 15
miles ; part of which is pretty good, and part (crossing the
Hills) very bad ; but when over, the ground begins to get
tolerably good and the Country better cultivated, tho' the
Crops of Corn do not look well and have been injured, it
is said, by an early frost in September. A beautiful fresh
water pond and large, is in the Plain of Brookland.
[Brookfield ?] The fashion of the Houses are more di-
versified than in Connecticut, though many are built in
their style. The Inclosures have but indifferent fences ;
wood or stone according as the Country abounds with the
latter — of which it is full after passing the pine levels. At
Brookland [Brookfield] we fed the Horses and dispatched
an Express which was sent to me by Govr. Hancock — giv-
ing notice of the measures he was about to pursue for my
reception on the Road, and in Boston — with a request to
lodge at his House.
Continued on to Spencer, 10 miles further, through
pretty good roads, and lodged at the House of one Jenks,
who keeps a pretty good Tavern.
Friday, 23d.
Commenced our course with the Sun, and passing through
Leicester, met some Gentlemen of the Town of Worcester,
on the line between it and the former to escort us. Arrived
about 1 0 o'clock at the House of • where
NORTHERN TOUR. 31
we breakfasted — distant from Spencer 12 miles. Here we
were received by a handsome Company of Militia Artillery
in Uniform, who saluted with 13 Guns on our Entry and
departure. At this place also we met a Committee from
the Town of Boston, and an Aid of Majr. Genl. Brooks, of
the Middlesex Militia, who had proceeded to this place in
order to make some arrangements of Military and other
Parade on my way to, and in the Town of, Boston ; and to
fix with me on the hours at which I should pass through
Cambridge, and enter Boston. Finding this ceremony was
not to be avoided, though I had made every effort to do it,
I named the hour of ten to pass the Militia of the above
County at Cambridge — and the hour of 1 2 for my entrance
into Boston, desiring Major Hale, however, to inform Genl.
Brooks14 that as I conceived there was an impropriety in
my reviewing the Militia, or seeing them perform manoeu-
vres, otherwise than as a private man, I could do no more
than pass along the line ; which, if he thought proper,
might be under arms to receive me at that time. These
matters being settled, the Committee and the Aid (Col0-
Uale) set forward on their return — and after breakfast I
followed. The same Gentlemen who had escorted me into,
conducting me out of Town. On the Line between Wor-
cester and Middlesex I was met by a Troop of light Horse
11 John Brooks was an active military officer in the Massachusetts
line, during the whole war tor independence, he was major-general
of the militia of his county for many years; and when the war with
England commenced in 1812, he was appointed adjutant-general of
Massachusetts. He was elected Governor of that State in 1816, and
was continued in office, by re-election, seven years.
32 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
belonging to the latter, who Escorted me to Marlborough,
(,16 miles) where we dined, and thence to Weston (14 more
where we lodged.) At Marlborough Ave met Mr. Jonathan
Jackson, the Marshall of this State, who proposed to attend
me whilst I remained in it. A good part of the Road from
Spencer to Worcester is Hilly, and except a little nearest
the latter, very stoney. From Worcester to Marlborough
the road is uneven but not bad — and from Marlborh. to
Weston it is leveller, with more sand. Between Worces-
ter and Marlborough the Town of Shrewsbury is passed —
and between Marlborough and Weston you go through
Sudbury. The Country about Worcester and onwards
towards Boston is better improved and the lands of better
quality than we travelled through yesterday. The Crops
it is said have been good. Indian Corn, Rye, Buckwheat
and grass — with Beef, Cattle and Pork, are the produce of
their Farms.
Saturday, 24th.
Dressed by Seven o'clock, and set out at eight — at ten
we arrived in Cambridge, according to appointment ; but
most of the Militia having a distance to come, were not in
line till after eleven ; they made however an excellent ap-
pearance, with Genl. Brooks at their Head. At this place
the Lieut. Govr. Mr. Saml. Adams, with the Executive
Council, met me and preceeded my entrance into town —
which was in every degree flattering and honorable. To
pass over the Minutiae of the arrangement for this purpose,
it may suffice to say that at the entrance I was welcomed
by the Selectmen in a body. Then following the Lieut't.
NORTHERN TOUR. 33
Govr. and Council in the order we came from Cambridge,
(preceeded by the Town Corps, very handsomely dressed,)
we passed through the Citizens classed in their different
professions, and under their own banners, till we came to
the State House ; from which across the Street an Arch
was thrown ; in the front of which was this Inscription —
" To the Man who unites all hearts" — and on the other —
"To Columbia's favorite Son"— and on one side thereof
next the State House, in a pannel decorated with a trophy,
composed of the Arms of the United States — of the Com-
monwealth of Massachusetts — and our French Allies,
crowned with a wreath of Laurel, was this Inscription —
"Boston relieved March 17th, 1776." This Arch was
handsomely ornamented, and over the Center of it a Cano-
py was erected 20 feet high, with the American Eagle
perched on the top. After passing through the Arch, and
entering the State House at the S°- End and ascending to
the upper floor and returning to a Balcony at the N°- End ;
three cheers was given by a vast concourse of people who
by this time had assembled at the Arch — then followed an
ode composed in honor of the President ; and well sung by
a band of select singers— after this three Cheers— followed
by the different Professions and Mechanics in the order
they were drawn up with their colours through a lane of
the People, which had thronged abt.the Arch under which
they passed. The Streets, the Doors, windows and tops of
the Houses were crowded with well dressed Ladies and
Gentlemen. The procession being over, I was conducted
to my lodgings at a Widow Ingersoll's, (which is a very
decent and good house) by the Lieut. Govr. and Council —
34: DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
accompanied by the Vice-President, where they took leave
of me. Having engaged yesterday to take an informal
dinner with the Govr. to-day, but under a full persuasion
that he would have waited upon me so soon as I should
have arrived — I excused myself upon his not doing it, and
informing me thro' his Secretary that he was too much
indisposed to do it, being resolved to receive the visit.
Dined at my Lodgings, where the Vice-President favoured
me with his Company.
Sunday, 25th.
Attended Divine Service at the Episcopal Church, where-
of Doctor Parker is the Incumbent, in the forenoon, and
the Congregational Church of Mr. Thatcher in the after-
noon. Dined at my Lodgings with the Vice-President.
Mr. Bowdoin accompanied me to both Churches. Between
the two I received a visit from the Gov'r, who assured me
that indisposition alone prevented his doing it yesterday,
and that he was still indisposed ; but as it had been sug-
gested that he expected to receive the visit from the Presi-
dent, which he knew was improper, he was resolved at all
haz'ds to pay his Compliments to-day. The Lt. Gov'r and
two of the Council, to wit, Heath and Russell, were sent
here last night to express the Govr.'s concern that he had
not been in a condition to call upon me so soon as I came
to Town. I informed them in explicit terms that I should
not see the Gov'r unless it was at my own lodgings.15
15 The conduct of Mr. Hancock on this occasion was severely cen-
mired, because it was generally believed that his sense of his own dig-
nity as chief magistrate of Massachusetts, and not bodily illness, was
NORTHERN TOUR. 35
Monday, 26th.
The day being Rainy and Stormy, myself much disor-
dered bv a cold, and inflammation in the left eye,16 I was
prevented from visiting Lexington, (where the first blood
m the dispute with G. Brit'n was drawn.) Rec'd the com-
plim'ts of many visits to-day. Mr. Dal ton and Genl. Cobb
dined with me, and in the Evening drank Tea with Gov'r
Hancock, and called upou Mr. Bowdoin on my return to
my lodgings.
Tuesday, 27th.
At 10 o'clock in the Morning received the visits of the
the cause of his omitting to call upon the President immediately after
his arrival. The rebuke of official pride administered by Washington
in his refusal to see Governor Hancock, except at the President's lodg-
ings, appears to have decided the question of superior dignity in the
mind of the Governor. For further illustration of this matter, see
Governor Hancock's letters to Washington, dated respectively October
21st, and October 23d, 1789, in Sparks' Correspondence of the Revolution,
Volume IV., pages 289-'90. In the first, he invited Washington to
stay at his house, and said, "I could wish that the accommodations
were better suited to a gentleman of your respectability;" and in the
second, written after Washington had declined his invitation, Governor
Hancock invited him to dine with him on Sunday, " en famille." He
appears to have had his heart set on having the President call on him
first.
18 Sullivan, in his " Familiar Letters," says, that owing to some mis-
management in the reception ceremonials at Cambridge, Washington
was detained a long time, and the weather being inclement, he took
cold. For several days afterward a severe influenza prevailed at Bos-
ton, and its vicinity, and was called the Washington Influenza. It may
not be inappropriate to mention that when, in 1843, President Tyler
visited Boston, a similar influenza prevailed at New York, and through-
out New England, which was called the Tyler G-rippe.
36 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Clergy of the Town. At 1 1 went to an Oratorio — and be-
tween that and 3 o'clock rec'd the Addresses of the Gover-
nor and Council — of the Town of Boston — of the Presi-
dent, <fec. of Harvard College, and of the Cincinnati of the
State ; after wch. at 3 o'clock, I dined at a large and ele-
gant Dinner at Fanuiel Hall, given by the Gov'r and Coun-
cil, and spent the evening at my lodgings. When the Com-
mittee from the Town presented their Address it was ac-
companied with a request (in behalf, they said, of the La-
dies,) that I would set to have my Picture taken for the
Hall, that others might be copied from it for the use of
their respective families. As all the next day was assigned
to various purposes, and I was engaged to leave town on
Thursday early, I informed them of the impracticability of
my doing this, but that I would have it drawn when I re-
turned to New York, if there was a good Painter there — or
by Mr. Trumbull when he should arrive, and would send it
to them.
Wednesday, 28th.
Went, after an early breakfast, to visit the duck manu-
facture, which appeared to be carrying on with spirit, and
is in a prosperous way. They have manufactured 32 pieces
of Duck of 30 or 40 yds. each in a week ; and expect in a
short time to encrease it to They have 28 looms at
work, and 14 Girls spinning with Both hands, (the flax
being fastened to their waste.) Children (girls) turn the
wheels for them, and with this assistance each spinner can
turn out 14 lbs. of Thread pr. day when they stick to it,
but as they are pd. by the piece, or work they do, there is
no other restraint upon them but to come at 8 o'clock in
NORTHERN TOUR. 37
the morning, and return at 6 in the evening. They are the
daughters of decayed families, and are girls of Character —
none others are admitted. The number of hands now em-
ployed in the different parts of the work is but the
Managers expect to encrease them to This is a work
of public utility and private advantage. From hence I
went to the Card Manufactory, where I was informed about
900 hands of one kind and for one purpose or another — all
kinds of Cards are made ; and there are Machines for exe-
cuting every part of the work in a new and expeditious
man'r, especially in cutting and bending the teeth, wch. is
done at one stroke. They have made 63.000 pr. of Cards
in a year, and can undersell the Imported Cards — nay,
Cards of this Manufactury have been smuggled into Eng-
land.17 At 11 o'clock I embarked on board the Barge of
the Illustrious, Captn. Penthere Gion, and visited his Ship
and the Superb, another 74 Gun Ship in the Harbour of
Boston, about 4 miies below the Town. Going and coming
I was saluted by the two frigates which lye near the
wharves, and by the 74s after I had been on board of
them ; as also by the 40 Gun Ship which lay in the same
range with them. I was also saluted going and coming by
the fort on Castle Isld.18 After my return I dined in a large
" These were implements for carding wool by hand, and were used
until several years after the close of the last war with Great Britain,
when woollen manufactories became common in this country.
is This was called Fort Adams at that time. The island was ceded
to the United States in 1799, when President Adams named the fortifi-
cation Fort Independence. The present structure was erected during
the years 1801, '02, "03.
38 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
company at Mr. Bowdoin's, and went to the Assembly in
the evening, where (it is said) there were upwards of 100
Ladies. Their appearance was elegant, and many of them
very handsome ; the Room is small hut neat, and well or-
namented.
Thursday, 29th.
Left Boston about 8 o'clock. Passed over the Bridge at
Charles-Town, and Avent to see that at Maiden, but pro-
ceeded to the College at Cambridge, attended by the Vice-
President, Mr. Bowdoin, and a great number of Gentle-
men.
At this place I was shown by Mr. Willard, the President,
the Philosophical aparatus, and amongst others Pope's
Orary (a curious piece of Mechanism for shewing the revo-
lutions of the Sun, Earth, and many other of the Planets),
the library, (containing 13.000 volumes,) and a Museum.
The Bridges of Charlestown and Maiden are useful and no-
ble— doing great credit to the enterprising spirit of the
People of this State. From Boston, besides the number of
citizens which accompanied me to Cambridge, and many
of them from thence to Lynn — the Boston Corps of Horse
escorted me to the line between Middlesex and Essex
County, where a party of Horse, with Genl. Titcomb, met
me, and conducted me through Marblehead (which is 4
miles out of the way, but I wanted to see it,) to Salem.
The chief employment of the People of Marblehead (males)
Is fishing; about 110 vessels and 800 men and boys are
engaged in this business". Their chief export is fish. About
5000 souls are said to be in this place, which has the ap-
NORTHERN TOUR. 39
pearancc of antiquity ; the Houses are old ; the streets
dirty ; and the common people not very clean. Before we
entered the Town we were met and attended by a Com'e,
till we were handed over to the Select men, who conducted
us, saluted by artillery, into the Town, to the House of a
Mrs. Lee, where there was a cold collation prepared ; after
partaking of which we visited the Harbour, their fish brakes
for curing fish, <fec, and then proceeded (first receiving an
Address from the Inhabitants) to Salem.
At the Bridge, 2 miles from this Town, we were also
met by a Committee, who conducted us by a Brigade of
the Militia and one or two handsome Corps in Uniform,
through several of the Streets to the Town or Court House,
where an Ode in honor of the President was sung — an Ad-
dress presented to him amidst the acclamations of the Peo-
ple ; after which he was conducted to his Lodgings. Rec'd
the Compliments of many differt. classes of People, and in
the evening, between 7 and 8 o'clock, went to an Assem-
bly, where there was at least an hundred handsome and
well dressed Ladies. Abt. nine I returned to my Lodg-
ings.
The Road from Boston to this place is here and there
Stoney, tho' level ; it is very pleasant : from most parts you
are in sight of the Sea. Meads, arable Land, and Rocky
hills are much intermixed — the latter chiefly on the left.
The Country seems to be in a manner entirely stripped of
wood. The grazing is good — the Houses stand thick.
After leaving Cambridge, at the distance of 4 miles, we
passed through Mystick — then Maiden — next Lynn, where
it is said 175.000 pairs of shoes (women's, chiefly) have
40 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
been made in a year by abt. 400 workmen. This is only a
row of houses, and not very thick, on each side of the
Road. After passing Lynn you enter Marblehead, wch is
4 miles from Salem. This latter is a neat Town, and said
to contain 8 or 9000 Inhabitants. Its exports are chiefly
Fish, Lumber and Provisions. They have in the East In-
dia Trade at this time 13 Sail of Vessels.
Friday, 30th.
A little after 8 o'clock I set out for Newbury-Port ; and
in less than 2 miles crossed the Bridge between Salem and
Beverly, which makes a handsome appearance, and is upon
the same plan of those over Charles and Mistick Rivers ;
excepting that it has not foot ways as that of the former
has. The length of this bridge is 1530 feet, and was built
for about £4500, lawful money — a price inconceivably low
in my estimation, as there is 18 feet water in the deepest
parts of the River over which it is erected. This Bridge
is larger than that at Charlestown, but shorter by feet
than the other over Mistick. All of them have draw
bridges, by which vessels pass. After passing Beverley, 2
miles, we come to the Cotton Manufactury, which seems to
be carrying on with spirit by the Mr. Cabbots (principally).
In this Manufactory they have the new Invented Carding
and Spinning Machines; one of the first supplies the work,
and four of the latter ; one of which spins 84 threads at a
time by one person. The Cotton is prepared for these Ma-
chines by being first (lightly) drawn to a thrd, on the com-
mon wheel ; there is also another machine for doubling and
twisting the threads for particular cloths ; this also does
NORTHERN TOUR. -±1
many at a time. For winding the Cotton from the Spin
dies,' and preparing it for the warp, there is a Reel which
expedites the work greatly. A number of Looms (15 or
16) were at work with spring shuttles, which do more than
d'ble work. In short, the whole seemed perfect, and the
Cotton stuffs w'ch they turn out, excellent of their kind ;
warp and filling both are now of Cotton. From this place,
with escorts of Horse, I passed on to Ipswich, about 10
miles ; at the entrance of which I was met and welcomed
by the Select men, and received by a Regm't of Militia.
At this place I was met by Mr. Dalton and some other
Gentlemen from Newbury-port ; partook of a cold colla-
tion, and proceeded on to the last mentioned place, where
I was received with much respect and parade, about 4
o'clock. In the evening there were rockets and some other
fireworks — and every other demonstration to welcome me
to the Town. This place is pleasantly situated on Merri-
mack River, and appears to have carried on (here and
above) the shipbuilding business to a grt. extent. The
number of souls is estimated at 5000.
Saturday, 31st.
Left Newbury-port a little after 8 o'clock (first break-
fasting with Mr. Dalton) and to avoid a wider ferry, more
inconvenient boats, and a piece of heavy sand, Ave crossed
the River at Salisbury, two miles above, and near that fur-
ther about — and in three miles came to the line wch.
divides the State of Massachusetts from that of New Hamp-
shire. Here I took leave of Mr. Dalton and many other
private Gentlemen who accompanied me ; also of Gen'l
42 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Titcomb, who bad met me on tbe line between Middlesex
and Essex Counties — Corps of ligbt Horse, and many offi-
cers of Militia — and was rec'd by the President of the State
of New Hampshire — the Vice-President ; some of the
Council — Messrs. Langdon and Wingate of the Senate —
Col0- Parker, Marshall of the State, and many other re-
spectable characters ; besides several Troops of well
cloathed Horse in handsome Uniforms, and many officers
of the Militia also in handsome (white and red) uniforms
of the Manufacture of the State. With this cavalcade, we
proceeded, and arrived before 3 o'clock at Portsmouth
where we were received with every token of respect and
appearance of cordiallity, under a discharge of artillery.
The streets, doors and windows were crowded here, as at
all the other Places; and, alighting at the Town House,
odes were sung and played in honor of the President.
The same happened yesterday at my entrance into New-
buryport — being stopped at my entrance to hear it. From
the Town House I went to Colonel Brewster's Ta'n, the
place provided for my residence ; and asked the President,
Vice-President, the two Senators, the Marshall, and Majr.
Gilman to dine with me, which they did ; after which I
drank Tea at Mr. Langdon's.
NOVEMBER 1st.
Attended by the President of the State (Genl. Sullivan),
Mr. Langdon, and the Marshall, I went in the forenoon to
the Episcopal Church, under the incumbency of a Mr.
Ogden ; and in the afternoon to one of the Presbyterian or
Congregational Churches, in which a Mr. Buckminster
NORTHERN TOLTR. 43
Preached.19 Dined at home with the Marshall, and spent
the afternoon in my own room writing letters.
Monday, 2d.
Having made previous preparations for it, ahout 8
o'clock, attended by the President, Mr. Langdon, and some
other Gentlemen, I went in a boat to view the harbour of
Portsmouth; which is well secured against all winds; and
from its narrow entrance from the Sea, and passage up to
the Town, may be perfectly guarded against any approach
by water. The anchorage is also good, and the shipping
may lay close to the Docks, &c, when at the Town. In
my way to the mouth of the Harbour, I stopped at a place
called Kittery, in the Province of Maine, the river Piscata-
qua being the boundary between New Hampshire and it.
From hence I went by the old Fort (formerly built while
under the English government) on an Island which is at
the entrance of the harbour, and where the Light House
stands. As we passed this Fort we were saluted by 13
Guns. Having Lines, we proceeded to the Fishing banks a
little without the Harbour, and fished for Cod ; but it not
being a proper time of tide, we only caught two, with w'ch,
about 1 o'clock, we returned to Town. Dined at Mr.
Langdon's, and drank Tea there, with a large circle of
Ladies, and retired a little after seven o'clock. Before
dinner I rec'd an address from the Town, presented by the
Vice-President ; and returned an answer in the Evening to
19 The eminent Joseph Buckminster, D. D., the successor of Dr.
Langdon.
44: DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
one I had rec'd from Marblehead, and another from the
Presbyterian Clergy of the State of Massachusetts and New
Hampshire, delivered at Newbury Port; both of which I
had been unable to answer before.
Tuesday, 3d.
Sat two hours in the forenoon for a Mr ,30 Painter,
of Boston, at the request of Mr. Breck, of that place ; who
wrote Majr. Jackson that it was an earnest desire of many
of the Inhabitants of that Town that he might be indulged.
After this setting I called upon President Sullivan, and the
mother of Mr. Lear,"-" and having walked through most
parts of the Town, returned by 12 o'clock, when I was
visited by a Clergyman of the name of Haven, who pre-
sented me with an Ear and part of the stalk of the dyeing
Corn, and several small pieces of Cloth which had been
dyed with it, equal to any colours I had ever seen, of vari-
ous colours. This Corn was blood red, and the rind of the
stalk deeply tinged of the same colour.
About 2 o'clock, I received an Address from the Execu-
tive of the State of New Hampshire, and in half an hour
20 Gulligher. Doctor Jeremy Belknap, in his Diary, after mention-
ing that he, with other clergymen, called upon Washington, in Boston,
Bays — "N. B. While in the chapel, Gullager, the painter, stole a like-
ness of him from a pew behind the pulpit." He afterwards records —
''Gulliger followed General Washington to Portsmouth, where he sat
two and a half hours for him to take his portrait; which he did, and
obtained a very good likeness : after which he laid aside the sketch
which he took in the chapel ; which, however, was not a bad one."
A fine engraving of Gulligher's portrait is published in " Proceedings
of the Massachusetts Historical Society" 1855-1858.
21 Tobias Lear, the President's private Secretary.
NORTHERN" TOUR. 45
after dined with them and a large company, at their assem-
bly room, which is one of the best I have seen anywhere in
the United States. At half after seven I went to the as-
sembly, where there were about 75 well dressed, and many
of them very handsome ladies — among whom (as was also
the case at the Salem and Boston assemblies) were a great-
er proportion with much blacker hair than are usually seen
in the Southern States. About nine, I returned to my
quarters. Portsmouth, it is said, contains about 5,000 in-
habitants. There are some good houses, (among which
Col0. Langdon's may be esteemed the first,) but in general
they are indifferent, and almost entirely of wood. On
wondering at this, as the country is full of stone and good
clay for bricks, I was told that on acct. of the fogs and
clamp, they deemed them wholesomer, and for that reason
preferred wood buildings. Lumber, fish, and potasb, with
some provisions, compose the principal articles of export.
Ship-building here and at Newburyport, has been carried
on to a considerable extent. During and for some time
after the war there was an entire stagnation to it ; but it is
beginning now to revive again. The number of ships
belonging to the port are estimated at .
Wednesday, 4th.
About half after seven I left Portsmouth, quietly, and
without any attendance, having earnestly entreated that all
parade and ceremony might be avoided on my return.
Before ten I reached Exeter, 14 miles distance. This is
considered as the second town in New Hampshire, and
stands at the head of the tide-water of Piscataqua River;
46 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
but ships of 3 or 400 tuns are built at it. Above (but in
the town) are considerable falls, which supply several grist
mills, 2 oyl mills, a slitting mill, and snuff mill. It is a
place of some consequence, but does not contain more than
1,000 inhabitants. A jealousy subsists between this town
(where the Legislature alternately sits,) and Portsmouth ;
which, had I known it in time, would have made it neces-
sary to have accepted an invitation to a public dinner, but
my arrangements having been otherwise made, I could not.
From hence, passing through Kingstown, (6 miles from
Exeter) I arrived at Haverhill about half-past two, and
stayed all night. Walked through the town, which stands
at the head of the tide of Merrimack River, and in a beau-
tiful part of the country. The lands over which I travelled
to-day, are pretty much mixed in places with stone — and
the growth with pines — till I came near to Haverhill,
where they disappeared, and the land had a more fertile
appearance. The whole were pretty well cultivated, but
used (principally) for grass and Indian corn. In Haverhill
is a Duck manufactory, upon a small but ingenious scale,
under the conduct of Col0- At this manufactory
one small person turns a wheel which employs eight
spinners, each acting independently of each other, so as to
occasion no interruption to the rest if any one of them is
stopped — whereas at the Boston manufactory of this article,
each spinner has a small girl to turn the wheel. The looms
are also somewhat differently constructed from those of the
common kind, and upon an improved plan. The iuhabit'ts
of this small village were well disposed to welcome me to
it by every demonstration which could evince their joy.
NORTHERN TOUR. 47
Thursday, 5th.
About sunrise I set out, crossing the Merrimack River at
the town, over to the township of Bradford, and in nine
miles came to Abbot's tavern, in Andover, where we break-
fasted, and met with much attention from Mr. Phillips,22
President of the Senate of Massachusetts, who accompanied
us through Bellariki23 to Lexington, where I dined, and
viewed the spot on which the first blood was spilt in the
dispute with Great Britain, on the 19th of April, 1775.
Here I parted with Mr. Phillips, and proceeded on to Wa-
tertown, intending (as I was disappointed by the weather
and bad roads from travelling through the Interior Coun-
try to Charlestown, on Connecticut River,) to take what is
called the middle road from Boston. The country from
Haverhill to Andover is good, and well cultivated. In and
about the latter (which stands high) it is beautiful. A
mile or two from it you descend into a pine level, pretty
sandy, and mixed with swamps, through which you ride
several miles, till you begin to ascend the heights on which
the town of Bellarika stands, which is also pleasantly
situated 10 miles from Andover. From hence to Lexing-
ton— eight miles — and thence to Watertown, eight more,
the country is very pleasant, and the roads in general good.
We lodged in this place at the house of a Widow Coolidge,
near the Bridge, and a very indifferent one it is.
M Samuel Phillips, who was President of the Massachusetts Senate
from 1786, until 1S01, when he was chosen Lieutenant-Governor. lie
died in February, 1302.
« Billeriea.
48 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Friday, 6th.
A little after seven o'clock, under great appearances of
rain or snow, we left Watertown, and passing through
Needham (five miles therefrom) breakfasted at Sherburn,
which is 14 miles from the former. Then passing through
Holliston, 5 miles, Milford 6 more, Mendcn 4 more, and
Uxbridge 6 more, we lodged at one Taft's, 1 mile further ;
the whole distance of this day's travel being 36 miles.
From Watertown, till you get near Needham, the road is
very level — about Needham it is hilly — then level again,
and the whole pleasant and well cultivated, till you pass
Sherburne ; between this and Holliston is some hilly and
rocky ground, as there is in places onwards to Uxbridge ;
some of wch. are very bad. Upon the whole it may be
called an indifferent road — diversified by good and bad
land — cultivated and in woods — some high and barren, and
others low, wet and piney. Grass and Indian Corn is the
chief produce of the farms. Rye composes a part of the
culture of them, but wheat is not grown on account of the
blight. The roads in every part of this State are amaz-
ingly crooked, to suit the convenience of every man's fields;
and the directions you receive from the people equally blind
and ignorant ; for instead of going to Watertown from Lex-
ington, if we had proceeded to Waltham, we should in 13
miles have saved at least six; the distance from Lexington
to Waltham being only 5 miles, and the road from Water-
town to Sherburne going within less than two miles of the
latter, (i. e. Waltham). The clouds of the morning van-
ished before the meridian sun, and the afternoon was bright
NORTHERN TOUR. 49
and pleasant. The house in Uxbridge had a good external
appearance, (for a tavern) but the owner of it being from
home, and the wife sick, we could not gain admittance ;
which was the reason of my coming on to Taft's ;24 where,
though the people were obliging, the entertainment was
not very inviting.
Saturday, 7th.
Left Taft's before sunrise, and passing through Douglass
wood, breakfasted at one Jacobs' in Thompson, 12 miles
distant ; not a good house. Bated the horses in Pomfret,
at Col0' Grosvenor's, distant 11 miles from Jacobs', and
lodged at Squire Perkins' in Ashford, (called 10 miles, but
51 While President Washington was at Hartford, on his return, he
wrote the following letter to Mr. Taft :
"Hartford, 8th November, 1789.
" Sir — Being informed that you have given my name to one of your
eons, and called another after Mrs. Washington's family, and being
moreover very much pleased with the modest and innocent looks of
your two daughters, Patty and Polly, I do for these reasons send each
of these girls a piece of chintz; and to Patty, who bears the name of
Mrs. Washington, and who waited more upon us than Polly did, I send
five guineas, with which she may buy herself any little ornaments she
may want, or she may dispose of them in any other manner more
agreeable to herself. As I do not give these things with a view to
have it talked of, or even to its being known, the less there is said
about the matter the better you will please me ; but, that I may be
sure the chintz and money have got safe to hand, let Patty, who I dare
say is equal to it, write me a line informing me thereof, directed to
'The President of the United States at New York.' I wish you and
your family well, and am your humble servant,
" Geo. Washington."
3
50 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
must be 12). The first stage, with a small exception, is in-
tolerable bad road, and a poor and uncultivated country,
covered chiefly with woods — the largest of which is called
Douglass, at the foot of which, on the east side, is a large
pond. Jacobs's is in the State of Connecticut, and here the
lands are better, and more highly improved. From hence
to Pomfret there is some woods and indifferent land, but in
general it is tolerably good, and the farms look well. In
and abt. Pomfret they are fine, and from thence to Ashford
not bad ; but very hilly, and much mixed with rock stone.
Knowing that General Putnam lived in the Township of
Pomfret, I had hopes of seeing him, and it was one of my
inducements for coming this road ; but on enquiry in the
town I found that he lived 5 miles out of my road, and that
without deranging my plan and delaying my journey, I
could not do it.
Sunday, 8th.
It being contrary to law and disagreeable to the People
of this State (Connecticut) to travel on the Sabbath day —
and my horses, after passing through such intolerable
roads, wanting rest, I stayed at Perkins' tavern (which, by
the bye, is not a good one,) all day — and a meeting-house
being within a few rods of the door, I attended morning
and evening service, and heard very lame discourses from a
Mr. Pond."
28 Eeverend Enoch Pond, who died in 1807. On his tomb-stone are
inscribed these words — " Generous in temper, correct in science, and
liberal in sentiment, the gentleman, the scholar, and the Minister of
'the Sanctuary, appeared with advantage in Mr. Pond."
NORTHERN TOUR. 51
Monday, 9th.
Set out about 1 o'clock, and for the first 24 miles had
hilly, rocky, and disagreeable roads ; the remaining 10 was
level and good, but in places sandy. Arrived at Hartford
a little before four. We passed through Mansfield, (which
is a very hilly country, and the township in which they
make the greatest qty. of silk of any in the State,) and
breakfasted at one Brigham's, in Coventry. Stopped at
Woodbridge's in Et. Hartford, where the level land is en-
tered upon, and from whence, through East Hartford, the
country is pleasant, and the land in places very good ; in
others sandy and weak. I find by conversing with the
farmers along this road, that a medium crop of wheat to
the acre is about 15 bushels — of corn, 20 — of oats, the same
— and in their strong and fresh lands they get as much
wheat as they can rye to the acre — but in warm or sandy
land the latter yields most. They go more, however, upon
grazing than either; and consequently beef, butter and
cheese, with pork, are the articles which they carry to
market.
Tuesday, 10th.
Left Hartford about 7 o'clock, and took the middle road
(instead of the one through Middletown, which I went). —
Breakfasted at Worthington, in the township of Berlin, at
the house of one Fuller. Bated at Smith's on the plains of
Wallingford, 13 miles from Fuller's, which is the distance
Fuller's is from Hartford — and got into New Haven which
is 13 miles more, about half an hour before sun-down. At
52 DIAKT OF WASHINGTON.
this place I met Mr. Gerry,26 in the stage from New York,
who gave me the first cert'n acct. of the health of Mrs.
Washington.
Wednesday, 11th.
Set out about sunrise, and took the upper road to Mil-
ford, it being shorter than the lower one through West
Haven. Breakfasted at the former. Baited at Fairfield ;
and dined and lodged at a Maj. Marvin's, 9 miles further;
which is not a good house, though the people of it were
disposed to do all they could to accommodate me.
Thursday, 12th.
A little before sunrise Ave left Marvin's, and breakfasting
at Stamford, 13 miles distant, reached the Widow Havi-
land's, 12 miles further ; where, on acct. of some lame
horses, we remained all night. The badness of these roads
having been described as I went, I shall say nothing of
them now.
Friday, 13th.
Left Mrs. Haviland's as soon as we could see the road,
and breakfasted at Hoyet's tavern, this side King's-bridge,
and between two and three o'clock arrived at my house at
New York, where I found Mrs. Washington and the rest of
the family all well27 — and it being Mrs. Washington's night
■■" Elbridge Gerry, one of the signers of the Declaration of Inde-
pendence, and then a member of Congress from Massachusetts.
37 It will be observed that in this tour, the President avoided Rhode
Island, that State and North Carolina having, as yet, refused to ratify
NORTHERN TOUR. 53
to receive visits, a pretty large company of ladies and gen-
tlemen were present.
Saturday, 14th.
At home all day — except taking a walk round the Bat-
tery in the afternoon.
At 4 o'clock received and answered an Address from the
President and Corporation of Dartmouth College — and
about noon sundry visits.
Sunday, 15th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon — and after
returning from thence was visited by Majr. Butler, Majr.
Meredith and Mr. Smith, So. Car'a. Received an invitation
to attend the Funeral of Mrs. Roosevelt, (the wife of a Sen-
ator of this State) but declined complying with it — first,
because the propriety of accepting any invitation of this
sort appeared very questionable — and secondly, (though to
do it in this instance might not be improper,) because it
might be difficult to discriminate in eases which might
thereafter happen.28
the Federal Constitution, and were considered as essentially foreign
states. On the day when the President returned to New York, the
new convention of North Carolina voted to ratify the Federal Constitu-
tion ; and Ehode Island was admitted into the Union on the 29th of
May following.
23 The etiquette of the President's household, and his intercourse
with the public at large, were matters of much greater moment than
they might, at first thought, appear. The precedents of monarchy
might not be followed in a simple Republic, and yet a certain dignity
was to be preserved. The arrangement of official ceremonials con-
54 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Monday, 16th.
The Commissioners,29 who had returned from the pro-
posed treaty with the Creek Indians before me to this city,
dined with me to-day, as did their Secretary, Col0- Franks,
and young Mr. Lincoln, who accompanied them.
Tuesday, 17 th.
The visitors at the Levee to-day were numerous.
Wednesday, 18th.
Took a walk in the forenoon, and called upon Mr. Jay
on business, but he was not within. On my return, paid
Mr. Vaughan, Senr. a visit, informal.
Sent a Commission as District Judge of So. Carolina, to
the Hon'ble William Drayton, of that State.
Thursday, 19th.
The following company dined here to-day, viz : — Mrs.
Adams, (lady to the Vice-President,) Col. Smith and lady,
and Miss Smith, Mrs. Adams's niece — Gov'r Clinton and
nected with the President, appears to have been chiefly left to Colonel
Humphreys, a former aid-de-camp of Washington, and very recently
Secretary of Legation at Paris. The customs -which were established
during Washington's administration concerning the levees, the Presi-
dent not returning visits, et cetera, have ever since prevailed ; and the
Chief Magistrate of the Republic is never seen in the position of a pri-
vate citizen. £**J\M£
89 General Lincoln, Colonel Humphreys, and Dav.w Griffin, late
President of Congress.
NORTHERN TOUR. 55
lady, and Miss Cornelia Clinton30 — and Maj. Butler, his
lady and two daughters.
Friday, 20th.
The visitors of gent'n and ladies to Mrs. Washington this
evening were numerous and respectable.
Saturday, 21st.
Received in the afternoon the Report from the Commis-
sioners appointed to treat with the Southern Indians — gave
it one reading — and shall bestow another and more atten-
tive one on it.
Sunday, 22d.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon — heard a
charity sermon for the benefit of the Orphan's School of
this city.
Had a good deal of conversation in the evening with the
above Commissioners on the more minute part of their
transactions at the Treaty with the Creek Indians — and
their opinion with respect to the real views of Mr. McGilli-
vray,31 the principles of whose conduct they think is self-
interest, and a dependence for support on Spain. They
think also, that having possessed himself of the outlines of
30 Miss Clinton afterwards married the Minister of the French Ke-
public to the United States, Edmund Charles Genet.
31 Alexander McGillivray was then head chief of the Creek nation.
He was the son of a Creek woman by a Scotchman, who was a wealthy
Tory in Georgia during the Revolution. His property was confiscated,
and his son took refuge among the Creeks, and by reason of his supe-
rior talents, became " the beloved man," or head chief of that nation.
56 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
the terms he could treat with the United States upon, he
wished to postpone the Treaty to see if he could not obtain
better from Spain. They think that, though he does not
want abilities, he has credit to the full extent of thern, and
that he is but a short-sighted politician. He acknowledges,
however, that an alliance between the Creek Nation and
the United States is the most natural one, and what they
ought to prefer, if to be obtained on equal terms. A free
post in the latter seems to be a favourite object with him.
Monday, 23d.
Rid five or six miles between breakfast and dinner.
Called upon Mr. Vanberckel32 and Mrs. Adams.
Tuesday, 24th.
A good deal of company at the Levee to-day. Went to
the play in the evening33 — sent tickets to the following
ladies and gentlemen and invited them to seats in my box,
32 Peter J. Van Berckel, of Rotterdam, was the resident diplomatic
agent of the United Netherlands, near the government of the United
States. He died at Newark, New Jersey, on the 17th of December,
1800, at the age of seventy-seven years.
33 The theatre was in John-street, north side, not far from Broad-
way. It was a small, rickety affair, and capable of holding only about
three hundred persons. A German, named Feyles, was the leader of
the orchestra. He composed the President's March for this occasion,
and that tune was played at the moment when Washington and his
friends entered the theatre. It was afterwards slightly altered, and has
been known as Hail Columbia ever since. It was doubtless on this
occasion that Wignell performed the part of Darby, in the interlude of
Darbv's Return, a play written by William Dunlap. Darby, an Irish
lad, recounts his adventures in the United States and elsewhere.
NORTHERN TOUR. 57
viz: — Mrs. Adams, (lady of the Vice-President,) Gen].
Schuyler and lady, Mr. King and lady, Majr. Butler and
lady, Col°- Hamilton and lady, Mrs. Green — all of whom
accepted and came, except Mrs. Butler, who was indis-
posed.
Wednesday, 25th.
Exercised on horseback between breakfast and dinner —
in which, returning, I called upon Mr. Jay and Gen. Knox
on business — and made informal visits to the Gov'r, Mr.
Izard, Genl. Schuyler, and Mrs. Dalton. The following
company dined with me, viz :
Doctr. Johnson and lady and daughter (Mrs. Neely), Mr.
When he told of what befell him in New York at the inauguration of
the President, &c., "the interest expressed by the audience," says
Dunlap, " in the looks and the changes of countenance of the great
man [Washington] became intense. At the descriptive lines :
" ' A man who fought to free the land from woe,
Like me, had left his farm, a soldiering to go,
But having srain'd his point, he had, like me,
Return'd, his own potato ground to see.
But there he could not rest. With one accord,
He is call'd to be a kind of— not a lord —
I don't know what; he's not a great man, sure,
For poor men love him just as he were poor,'
the President looked serious ; and when Kathleen asked.
' How look'd he, Darby ? Was he short or tall ?'
his countenance showed embarrassment, from the expectation of one
of those eulogiums which he had been obliged to hear on many public
occasions, and which must doubtless have been a severe trial to his
feelings." The President was relieved by Darby's declaration that hi
had nut seen him.
3*
58 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
Izard and lady and son, Mr. Smith (So. Carolina) and lady,
Mr. Kean and lady, and the Chief Justice, Mr. Jay.
After which I went with Mrs. Washington to the dancing
assembly, at which I stayed until 10 o'clock.
Thursday, 26th.
Being the day appointed for a thanksgiving, I went to
St. Paul's Chapel, though it was most inclement and stormy
— but few people at Church.
Friday, 27th.
Not many visitors this evening to Mrs. Washington.
Saturday, 28th.
Exercised on horseback.
Sunday, 29th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Monday, 30th.
Went to the Play in the evening, and presented tickets
to the following persons, viz : — Doctr. Johnson and lady,
Mr. Dalton and lady, the Chief Justice of the United States
and lady, Secretary of War and lady, Baron de Steuben,
and Mrs. Green.
Tuesday, December 1st.
A pretty full Levee to-day — among the visitors was the
Vice-President and all the^Senators in town. Exercised on
horseback between 10 and 12.
NORTHERN TOUR. 59
Read the papers relative to our affairs with the Emperor
of Morocco, and sent them to Mr. Jay to prepare answers
to them.
Wednesday, 2d.
Exercised in the post chaise with Mrs. Washington —
visited on our return the Vice-President and family — after-
wards walked to Mr. King's — neither he nor his lady were
at home, or to be seen.
Thursday, 3d.
The following gentlemen and ladies dined here, viz : —
Gen. Schuyler, his lady and daughter, (Mrs. Ranselaer) Mr.
Dalton and his lady, the Secretary of the Treasury and his
lady, Gen. Knox and lady, and Mrs. Greene, Baron de
Steuben, Col. Osgood, (Post Master Gen'l) and the Treasu-
rer, Majr. Meredith.
Friday, 4th.
A great number of visiters (gentlemen and ladies) this
evening to Mrs. Washington.
The Governor of New Jersey, and the Speaker of the
House of Assembly of that State, presented an Address
from the Legislature thereof, and received an answer to it,
after which they dined with me.
Saturday, 5th.
Exercised on horseback between 10 and 12 o'clock.
The Vice-President and lady and two sons — Col. Smith
and lady, and his sister, and Mrs. Adams's niece, dined here.
60 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Sunday, 6th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Monday, 7th.
Walked round the Battery in the afternoon.
Tuesday, 8th.
Finished my extracts from the Commissioners' Report of
their proceedings at the Treaty with the Creek Indians —
and from many other papers respecting Indian matters and
the Western Territory. A full levee to-day.
Wednesday, 9th.
Walked round the Battery.
Thursday, 10th.
Exercised on horseback between 10 and 12 o'clock.
The following company dined here to-day, viz : Mrs.
King and Mr. and Mrs. Few, Mr. and Mrs. Harrison, Mr.
and Mrs. Wolcott, Mr. Duer, his lady, and Miss Brown, Mr.
Griffin and lady, and Lady Christiana and her daughter.
Friday, 11th.
Being rainy and bad, no person except the Vice-Presi-
dent visited Mrs. Washington this evening.
NOKTHEEN TOUK. 61
Saturday, 1 2th.
Exercised in the coach with Mrs. Washington and the
two children, (Master34 and Miss Custis,) between breakfast
and dinner — went the 14 miles round.
Sunday, 13th.
"Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Monday, 14th.
Walked round the Battery in the afternoon.
Tuesday, 15th.
Exercised on horseback about 10 o'clock — called on the
Secretary for the Department of War, and gave him the
heads of many letters to be written to characters in the
Western Country, relative chiefly to Indian Affairs.
Visitors to the levee to-day were not very numerous,
though respectable.
Wednesday, 16th.
Dined with Mrs. Washington and all the family, (except
the two children) at Governor Clinton's — where also dined
the Vice-President, his lady, Col0- and Mrs. Smith, the
34 George Washington Parke Custis, who was for a long time the last
surviving executor of the Will of Washington. He died at Arlington
House, near Alexandria, Virginia, on the 10th of October, 1857, at the
age of seventy-six years.
62 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Mayor (Col0- Varick) and his lady, and old Mr. Van Berkel
and his daughter.
Thursday, 17th.
The following company dined here, viz : The Chief Jus-
tice of the U. States and his lady ; Mr. King, Col0, and
Mrs. Lawrence, Mrs. Gerry, Mr. Egbert Benson, Bishop
Provost, and Doct. Lynn and his lady.
Friday, 18th.
Eead over and digested my thoughts upon the subject of
a National Militia, from the plans of the militia of Europe,
those of the Secretary at War, and the Baron de Steuben.
Saturday, 19th.
Committed the above thoughts to writing, in order to
send them to the Secretary for the Department of War, to
be worked into the form of a Bill, with which to furnish
the Committee of Congress which had been appointed to
draught one.
Sunday, 20th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Monday, 21st.
Framed the above thoughts on the subject of a National
Militia into the form of a Letter, and sent it to the Secre-
tary for the Department of War.
NORTHERN TOUR. 63
Sat from ten to one o'clock for a Mr. Savage," to draw
my Portrait for the University of Cambridge, in the State
of Massachusetts, at the request of the President and Gov-
ernors of the said University.
Tuesday, 22d.
A pretty full and respectable Levee to-day — at which
several members of Congress, newly arrived, attended.
Wednesday, 23d.
Exercised in the Post-Chaise with Mrs. Washington to-day.
Sent the dispatches which came to me from the Assem-
bly of Virginia, and from the Representatives of several
Counties therein, respecting the state of the frontiers and
depredations of the Indians, to the Secretary for the
Department of War, requesting his attendance to-morrow
at 9 o'clock, that I might converse more fully with him on
the subject of the communications.
Thursday, 24th.
The Secretary of War coming according to appointment,
he was instructed, after conversing fully on the matter,
35 Edward Savage was a native of New England. He had painted in
Philadelphia before going to New York in 1789. He was an indifferent
painter and engraver ; and John Wesley Jarvis, who was his pupil,
soon exceeded his master in skill. He had a kind of museum and pic-
ture gallery in Greenwich-street, New York, for a while. He publish-
ed a print called The Washington Family, which has been reproduced
in lithography, in our day. It was engraved by Edwin, a skilful
engraver, assisted by Jarvis.
64 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
what answers to return to the Executive of Virginia, and
to the Representatives of the frontier counties.
Friday, 25th — Christmas Day.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
The visitors to Mrs. Washington this afternoon were not
numerous, but respectable.
Saturday, 26th.
Exercised on horseback in the forenoon. Chief Justice
Morris and the Mayor, (Col0- Varick) and their ladies,
Judge Hobart, Col0- Cole, Majr. Gilman, Mrs. Brown, Sec-
retary Otis, and Mr. Beekley, dined here.
Sunday, 27th.
At home — all day — weather being bad.
Monday, 28th.
Sat all the forenoon for Mr. Savage, who was taking my
portrait.
Tuesday, 29th.
Being very snowing, not a single person appeared at tJ
Levee.
Wednesday, 30th.
Exercised in a carriage.
Thursday, 31st.
Bad weather and close house.
NORTHERN TOUR. 65
The Vice-President and lady, Col0, Smith and lady,
Chan'r Livingston, lady and sister, Baron Steuben, Messrs.
White, Gerry, Partridge and Tucker, of the House of Rep-
resentatives, dined here to-day.
JANUARY, 1790.
Friday, 1st.
The Vice-President, the Governor, the Senators, Mem-
bers of the House of Representatives in town, foreign
public characters, and all the respectable citizens, came
between the horn's of 12 and 3 o'clock, to pay the compli-
ments of the season to me — and in the afternoon a great
number of gentlemen and ladies visited Mrs. Washington
on the same occasion.
Saturday, 2d.
Exercised in the carriage with Mrs. Washington. Read
the report of the Secretary of the Treasury respecting the
state of his Department and proposed plans of finance. —
Drank tea at the Chief Justice's of the U. States.
Sunday, 3d.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel.
Monday, 4th.
Informed the President of the Senate, and Speaker of
the House of Representatives that I had some oral commu-
nications to make to Congress when each house had a
66 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
quorum, and desired to be informed thereof — and of the
time and place they would receive them.36
Walked round the Battery in the afternoon.
Received a report from the Secretary at War respecting
the state of the frontiers and Indian affairs, with other
matters which I ordered to be laid before Congress, as part
of the papers which will be referred to in my speech to
that body.
Tuesday, 5th.
Several Members of Congress called in the forenoon to
pay their respects on their arrival in town, but though a
respectable Levee, at the usual hour, three o'clock, the
visitors were not numerous.
Wednesday, 6th.
Sat from half after 8 o'clock till 10 for the portrait
painter, Mr. Savage, to finish the picture of me which he
had begun for the University of Cambridge.
In the afternoon walked around the Battery.
Miss Anne Brown stayed here, on a visit to Mrs. Wash-
ington, to a family dinner.
Thursday, 7th.
About one o'clock rec'd a Committee from both Houses
as The second session of the first Congress commenced on the fourth
day of January, 1790. Ten members only of the Senate having
answered to their names, the Senate was adjourned for want of a quo-
rum. A quorum of both houses appeared on the 6th.
NORTHERN TOUR. 67
of Congress,37 informing me that each had made a house,
and would be ready at any time I should appoint to
receive the communications I had to make in the Senate
Chamber. Named to-morrow, 11 o'clock, for this purpose.
The following gentlemen dined here, viz : Messrs. Lang-
don, Wingate, Strong and Few, of the Senate, the Speaker,
Genl. Muhlenberg and Scott, of Pennsylvania, Judge Liver-
more and Foster, of New Hampshire, Aimes and Thatcher
and Goodhue, of Massachusetts, Mr. Burke, of South Caro-
lina, and Mr. Baldwin, of Georgia.
Friday, 8th.
According to appointment, at 11 o'clock, I set out for
the City Hall in my coach, preceded by Colonel Hum-
phreys and Majr. Jackson in uniform, (on my two white
horses) and followed by Messrs. Lear and Nelson, in my
chariot, and Mr. Lewis, on horseback, following them. In
their rear was the Chief Justice of the United States and
Secretary of the Treasury and War Departments, in their
respective carriages, and in the order they are named. At
the outer door of the hall I was met by the door-keepers of
the Senate and House, and conducted to the door of the
Senate Chamber; and passing from thence to the Chair
through the Senate on the right, and House of Representa-
tives on the left, I took my seat. The gentlemen who at-
tended me followed and took their stand behind the Sena-
tors; the whole rising as I entered. After being seated, at
37 Messrs. Strong and Izard on the part of the Senate, and Messrs.
Gilman, Ames, and Seney, in behalf of the House of Representatives.
68 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
which time the members of both Houses also sat, I rose,
(as they also did) and made my speech ; delivering one
copy to the President of the Senate, and another to the
Speaker of the House of Representatives — after which, and
being a few moments seated, I retired, bowing on each side
to the assembly (who stood) as I passed, and descending to
the lower hall, attended as before, I returned with them to
my house.
In the evening a great number of ladies, and many gen-
tlemen visited Mrs. AVashington.
On this occasion I was dressed in a suit of clothes made
at the Woolen Manufactory at Hartford, as the buttons
also were.
Saturday, 9th.
Exercised with Mrs. Washington and the children in the
coach the 14 miles round.38 In the afternoon walked
round the Battery.
Sunday, 10th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon — wrote pri-
vate letters in the afternoon for the Southern mail.
Monday, 11th.
Sent my instructions to the Commissioners (appointed to
negotiate a Treaty with the Creek Indians) with the report
38 The route was by the old King's-Bridge road, which passed over
Murray Hill, where Lexington Avenue now does, to McGowan's Pass
at about One hundred and eighth street ; then across on a line with the
Harlem river to Bloomingdale, and so down on the westerly side of the
island.
NORTHERN TOUR. 69
of their proceedings, to the Senate by the Secretary at War,
previous to their being laid before them and the other
house in their legislative capacities.
Also communicated to both Houses, transcripts of the
adoption and ratification of the New Constitution by the
State of North Carolina, with copies of the letter from His
Excellency, Saml. Johnson, President of the Convention,
enclosing the same. These were sent by my private Secre-
tary, Mr. Lear.
Tuesday, 12th.
Exercised on horseback between 10 and 12 — y* riding
bad. Previous to this, I sent written messages to both
Houses of Congress, informing them that the Secretary at
War would lay before them a full and complete statement
of the business as it respected the negotiation with the
Creek Indians — my instructions to, and the Commissioners'
report of their proceedings with those people — the letters
and other papers respecting depredations on the western
frontiers of Virginia, and District of Kentucky. All of
which was for their full information, but communicated in
confidence, and under injunction that no copies be taken,
or communications made of such parts as ought to be kept
secret.
About two o'clock a Committee of the Senate waited on
me with a copy of their address, in answer to my speech,
and requesting to know at what time and place it should be
presented. I named my own house, and Thursday next, at
11 o'clock, for the purpose.
Just before Levee hour, a Committee from the House of
TO DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
Representatives called upon me to know when and where
they should deliver their address. I named twelve o'clock
on Thursday ; but finding it was there wish that it should
be presented at the Federal Hall, and offering to surrender
the Representatives' Chamber for this purpose, by retiring
into one of the Committee rooms, and there waiting until I
was ready to receive it, I would consider on the place, and
let them know my determination before the House should
sit to-morrow.36
A respectable, though not a full Levee to-day.
Wednesday,. 13th.
After duly considering on the place for receiving the
address of the House of Representatives, I concluded that
it would be best to do it at my own house — first, because it
seems most consistent with usage and custom — 2d, because
there is no third place in the Federal Hall [prepared) to
which I could call them, and to go into either of the cham-
bers appropriated to the Senate or Representatives, did not
appear proper ; and 3d, because I had appointed my own
house for the Senate to deliver theirs in, and accordingly
appointed my own house to receive it.
39 As soon as the President and House of Representatives had retired,
the Senate ordered the President's speech to be printed ; also appointed
a committee, consisting of Messrs. King1, Izard, and Paterson, to report
the draft of an answer to it. On the'Jth, the House of Representatives
took similar action, and appointed as its committee, Messrs. Smith, of
South Carolina, Clymer, and Lawrence. Mr. King reported an address
to the Senate on the 11th, which was accepted; and the following day
similar action was hail in the House.
NORTHERN TOUR. 71
Thursday, 14th.
At the hours appointed, the Senate and House of Repre-
sentatives presented their respective addresses — the mem-
bers of both coming in carriages, and the latter with the
Mace preceding the Speaker. The address of the Senate
was presented by the Vice-President — and that of the
House by the Speaker thereof.
The following gentlemen dined here to-day, viz :
Messrs. Henry and Maclay, of the Senate — and Messrs.
Wadsworth, Trumbull, Floyd, Boudinot, Wynkoop, Seney,
Page, Lee, and Mathews, of the House of Representatives ;
and Mr. John Trumbull.
Friday, loth.
Snowing all day — but few ladies and gentlemen as visit-
ors this evening to Mrs. Washington.
Saturday, 16th.
Exercised in the coach with Mrs. "Washington and the
two children, about 12 o'clock.
Sent the Report of the Post Master General relative to
the necessary changes in that office to the Secretary of the
Treasury, that it may be laid before Congress — or such
parts thereof as may be necessary for their information.
Sunday, 17th.
At home all day — not Avell.
72 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Monday, 18th.
Still indisposed with an aching tooth, and swelled and
inflamed gum.
Tuesday, 19th.
Not much company at the Levee to-day — but the visitors
were respectable.
Wednesday, 20th.
A Report from the Secretary at War, on the subject of a
National Militia, altered agreeably to the ideas I had com-
municated to him, was presented to me, in order to be laid
before Congress.
Thursday, 21st.
The above report was accordingly transmitted to both
Houses of Congress by the Secretary at War, in a written
message from me.
The following gentlemen dined here, viz : — Messrs. Els-
worth, Paterson, Elmer, Bassett, and Hawkins, of the Sen-
ate— and Messrs. Sherman, Cadwalader, Clymer, Hartley,
Heister, Smith, (Maryland) and Jackson, of the House of
Representatives — and Major Meredith, Treasurer of the
United States.
Friday, 22d.
Exercised on horseback in the forenoon.
Called in my ride on the Baron de Polnitz, to see the
operation of his (AVinlaw's) threshing machine.40 The
40 The Baron de Poelnitz had a small farm in the vicinity of Murray
Hill, where he tried experiments in agriculture. He wrote a pamphlet
on the subject, and also suggested to Washington the propriety of es-
NORTHERN TOUR. 73
effect was, the heads of the wheat being seperated from the
straw, as much of the first was run through the mill in 15
minutes as made half a bushel of clean wheat — allowing 8
Avorking hours in the 24, this would yield 16 bushels pr.
day. Two boys are sufficient to turn the wheel, feed the
mill, and remove the threshed grain after it has passed
through it. Two men were unable, by winnowing, to clean
the wheat as it passed through the mill, but a common
Dutch fan, with the usual attendance, would be more than
sufficient to do it. The grain passes through without
bruising and is well separated from the chaff. Women, or
boys of 12 or 14 years of age, are fully adequate to the
management of the mill or threshing machine. Upon the
whole, it appears to be an easier, more expeditious, and
much cleaner way of getting out grain than by the usual
mode of threshing ; and vastly to be preferred to treading,
which is hurtful to horses, filthy to the wheat, and not more
expeditious, Considering the numbers that are employed in
the process from the time the head is begun to be formed
until the grain has passed finally through the fan.
Many and respectable visitors to Mrs. Washington this
evening.
Saturday, 23d.
Went with Mrs. Washington in the forenoon to see the
Paintings of Mr. Jno. Trumbull.
tablishing a farm under the patronage of the government. The Baron
was the inventor of various agricultural machines. In a letter to him,
written in December previous, Washington proposed to take some oc-
casion " of seeing the manner in which the threshing machine operates."
That occasion is here noted.
4
74 DIARY OF "WASHINGTON.
Sunday, 24tli.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Writing private letters in the afternoon.
Monday, 25th.
A Mr. Francis Bailey, introduced by Messrs. Scott and
Hartley, of Pennsylvania, and Mr. White, of Virginia, of-
fered a paper, in the nature of a Petition, setting forth a
valuable discovery he had made of marginal figures for
notes, certificates, &c, which could not by the ingenuity
of man be counterfeited — requesting I would appoint some
person to hear and examine him on the subject ; that if the
facts stated by him should appear well founded, he might
(being a printer, of Philadelphia) have the printing of all
that sort of the public business for which this discovery
should be found useful — and which he would do on as good
terms as any other printer, independent of the discovery
above mentioned, all the advantage he should expect from
which being to obtain a preference.
Pvead a letter from George Nicholas, Esq., of Kentucky,
to Mr. Madison, which he put into my hands for informa-
tion of the sentiments of the people of that district.
The sentiments are
That in the late Convention held 2d Nov'r in that dis-
trict, the most important characters of that party which
has always been in favor of a seperation, oppose the
agreeing to it at this time, upon a supposition that the
terms have been changed by Virginia, so as to make
them inadmissible in their present form. Their en-
NORTHERN TOUR. iO
emies say this cannot be their true reason : but be
them what they may, the scale is turned against the
seperation.
That lie believes no late attempt has been made by either
Spain or England to detach that district from the
Union — but —
That Spain is playing a game which, if not counteracted,
will depopulate that country, and carry most of the
future emigrants to her territory. That they have
established a new government, independent of New
Orleans at the Natchez, and sent thither a man of
character and abilities — who would not for unimpor-
tant purposes have accepted the appointment.
That this new Governor has put a stop to the reception
of tobacco from the inhabitants of the United States —
declaring that none shall be received into the King's
stores, (where it used to be purchased and depos-
ited,) except from Spanish subjects — and that these
shall have ten dollars a hundred.
That other great advantages are held out to emigrants
from the United States to settle in the Spanish Terri-
tory— such as a donation of lands, and a certain sum
in money for each family.
That the consequences of restriction on one hand, and
encouragements to settlers on the other, are obvious —
the difference of religion and government are all that
can make any man hesitate in his choice— and perfect
liberty in both these the strongest assurances are
given.
76 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
That the French inhabitants of that country, as well as
future emigrants from the old States, will certainly go
there.
That persevering steadily in this conduct will drain the
Western settlements.
That these considerations ought to make the Federal
Government take (he thinks) the most decided steps
as to the right of navigating the Mississippi, and in-
duce it to pay particular attention to the gaining the
affections of the Western people.
That the steps hitherto taken with respect to them have
had a contrary effect : no support having been given
by the General Government, and the regulation of In-
dian Affairs having been placed in hands who were
interested in a continuance of their depredations on
the Kentucky district.
That if a trade is not established with them on such a
footing as to supply their wants, that they will do this
by plunder.
That the management of this business being in the hands
of persons North-West of the Ohio, it is inculcated on
the Indians of the same side of the river, that as the
Kentuckians and they are separate people, and in sepe-
rate interests, they may war with the first, and not
with them. That of this disposition and conduct there
are sufficient proofs whenever it is found that the in-
terests of the two sides clash.
That the Commissioners being always named from per-
NORTHERN TOUR. i J
sons living on that (North-west) side of the river, and
always holding the Treaties there, contributes greatly
to establish in the Indian mind this opinion of their
being a distinct people.
That the Kentucky district being 20 times as numerous
as the inhabitants of the other side, ought to have as
great a share in the management of Indian Affairs as
the people on the other side have.
That he is well convinced the bulk of the people in that
district are strongly attached to the Union, and that
characters might be found there better qualified to
manage the business than those in whose hands it is
now placed.
That if it is not the desire of the New Government to
lose all its friends in that quarter, a change must be
made in this business. The Indians must be convinced
that the Americans are all one people — that they shall
never attack any part with impunity — and that in fu-
ture there real wants will be supplied in time of peace.
This is all they ask.
That they deny in positive terms what the officers on the
north-west side of the river assert, viz : — that hostili-
ties are always commenced by the people of the Ken-
tucky district. Expeditions have and will be carried
on across the river in revenge for depredations of the
Indians, untill the Government takes up the matter ef-
fectually.
That Mr. Brown (to whom he has written) can inform in
78
DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
what light they are considered by the officers on the
other side of the river.
That the want of money, he knows, prevents the Govern-
ment from doing many things which otherwise would
be undertaken, but that need not stop the necessary
steps — because, if sanctioned by it, they can raise any
number of men and furnish any quantity of provisions
that may be wanting, and will wait until their finances
enable them to make satisfaction.
That he fears the Government have taken up an idea
that that country can be defended by a few posts
along the river — if so, it is a most erroneous one, for an
army would scarcely supply the chain that would be
necessary.
That the post at the mouth of Licking is considered by
many in the district of Kentucky as a check upon the
said district. To this he can only say, if they are
treated as fellow-citizens, checks are unnecessary— but
if it is intended to withhold from [them] all the benefits
of good government, a little time will shew that, as
heretofore, they have found the troops useless and
faithless as friends, so in future they shall despise them
as enemies.
That upon the whole, he shall close the subject with as-
surances that Government are deceived in the accounts
they have had from that country — and that it is his
opinion that the most serious consequences will follow
NORTHERN TOUR. 79
from its persisting in the measures which have been
pursued for some time past.41
Tuesday, 26th.
Exercised on horseback in the forenoon.
The visitors at the Levee to-day were numerous and
respectable — among whom was the Vice-President and
the Speaker of the House of Representatives.
Read a letter handed to me by the Secretary of War,
from a Col. Daniel Smith, of Miro settlement, in the State
of North Carolina, in reply to one which was an answer to
a letter received from the said Smith respecting Indian af-
fairs and state of the frontier of that part of the Union,
and giving (as he was required to do) an account of the
navigation of the river Tennessee and its waters — the com-
munication between these and other waters — and the dis-
tances of places, as follow, viz : —
The distance between the settlements of white people
south of the French Broad River, (j£^~ French Broad
is a branch of Holstein'- River, on the south side,
which is a branch of the Tennessee,) and the Indians
at and in the vicinity of Chota, (a Cherokee Indian
town,) is about 12 miles.
41 Kentucky was yet a district of Virginia. The people of the terri-
tory adopted a State Constitution in 1790, but the separation from
Virginia did not take place until 1792. Kentucky was admitted into
the Union on the first of June, that year.
n Holston.
80 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
He never passed down the Tennessee himself. That part
of it on which Chota stands is a south fork of the Hol-
stein — their junction is about 20 miles below Chota,
from which the whole river is called ye Tennessee.
Boats of 7 or 8 tons burthen have frequently gone down
the Holstein — and the water is sufficient for those of
greater burden ; but there is a place called the Suck,
or boiling pot, where the river runs through the Cum-
berland Mountains, that is somewhat difficult, occa-
sioned by the narrowness of the water and suddenness
of the turn, that causes a rebound and kind of whirl-
pool ; but many boats have passed it, and he has not
heard of damage to any of them, nor has he been in-
formed that there is any material difficulty in the nav-
io-ation more than is common in rivers of that size,
where there is no tide.
Between the Suck and the Muscle Shoals, he is sure there
is not.
Supposes the distance by water from Chota to the last
mentioned place, is between 3 and 400 miles ; the
width of the river is very unequal — generally about
500 yards, except at the Suck, wThere it is not half
that width.
The nature of the river, for the most part, is to have a
bluff on one side and low grounds on the other, (which
is liable to be overflowed) alternately ; the banks are
woody, and the low grounds thick with cane.
The Cherokees may be classed into three divisions. The
NORTHERN TOUR. 81
valley settlements on the Tennessee above Chota, east-
ward of the Iron Mountain — those in the neighborhood
of Chota — and those in the neighborhood of Chicka-
rnogga, (which is a creek running into the Tennessee,
on the south side, a few miles above Suck) — they have
detached villages besides — but the number of their
towns is unknown to him — nor can he say what num-
ber of souls they may consist of, but supposes of ... .
Warriors, there may be about 2,000 or 2,500 — and of
the three divisions, the Chickamoggas are perhaps
the most numerous.
Muscle Shoals have different accounts given of them by
people who have passed them — some say they are 30
miles, others not 15 in length — but all agree that the
river there is about 3 miles in width, very shallow, and
full of small islands occasioned by drift wood lodging
on the rocks, by which means mud and sand are
accumulated ; the lowest shoal is accounted rather the
worst. It is not possible for a large boat to pass them
in ascending the river at any season, nor can they pass
down them but in time of a flood.
Occhappo Creek he had never heard of — nor has he un-
derstood there was any creek on the south side of the
river, near the Muscle Shoals, that was navigable, un-
less when the river was high. Seven or eight miles
below the Muscle Shoals, there was formerly a Chero-
kee village, at the mouth of Cold Water Creek, but
ne never heard that it was navigable : 15 or 20 miles
4*
82 DIAEY OF "WASHINGTON.
below this again is Bear Creek, on which a small
tribe of Delawares live.
From the mouth of Cold Water Creek, or Bear Creek,
to the highest navigation of th-3 Mobile, he has heard
it accounted 60 miles, but cannot say that it is so ;
the head waters of the Mobile may be about half that
distance from the Tennessee.
Miro is the name of the district on Cumberland that
includes three counties. Nashville the name of the
town where the Superior Court is held. From hence
to the lower end of the Muscle Shoals is about 150
miles, nearly south.
Duck River, a north branch of the Tennessee, where the
path which leads from Nashville to the Chickasaw
Nation crosses it, is about 60 miles from the Cumber-
land settlement — about a south-west course. About
100 miles further on the same direction is the nearest
Chickasaw towns — the mouth of Duck River by
water, he supposes may be near 200 miles below the
Muscle Shoals.
Cumberland Settlements are not very compact — they
extend from the mouth of Red River, a north branch
of Cumberland River, up to Bledsoe's Creek, being
about 80 or 90 miles. The strength of the militia
about 800 — and increasing fast — thinks they may be
now by the late emigrations 1,000.
From Nashville to Lexington is about 200 or 210 miles
by land — and from Nashville to the Falls of Ohio is
about 140 miles, by land.
NORTHERN TOUR. 83
From the mouth of the Tennessee up to the Muscle
Shoals the navigation is good — equal to that of the
Ohio below the Falls — the width of the river near
half a mile, in places almost double — the distance
about 400 miles.
Chickasaws have no towns on the Tennessee — the nigh-
est they have to it is about 60 miles from, or a little
below Bear Creek. Their principal towns he has
understood are on the heads of a fork of the Mobile,
and on the head of the Yazoos ; the number of their
warriors is about 800.
Choctaws lye farther to the southward than the Chicka-
saws, and are a numerous nation. They are in
alliance with the Chickasaws, and he has heard their
numbers estimated at 7 or 8,000 — at least equal to
those of the Creeks, though not so well armed.
McGillivray's communications with the Cherokees he
conceives have a constant tendency to excite them to
war against the frontiers of Georgia and North Caro-
lina— or at least cautioning them to be on their guard
against the white people, and infusing suspicions into
the minds of them. The Creeks have wanted them
to join in a war against the white people, but they
have refused, and would be glad to see them humbled
for the insolence with which they treat them.
It will be highly pleasing to his settlement — Miro — to
hear that Congress will protect it.
84 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Wednesday, 27th.
Did business with the Secretaries of the Treasury and
War. With the first respecting the appointment of Super-
intendents of the Light Houses, Buoys, &c, and for build-
ing one at Cape Henry. With the latter for nominating
persons (named in a list submitted to me) for paying the
military pensioners of the United States — and the policy
and advantages (which might be derived from the measure)
of bringing Mr. Alex'r McGillivray, Chief of the Creek
Nation here, being submitted to me for consideration, I
requested that a plan might be reported by which Govern-
ment might not appear to be the agent in it, or suffer in
its dignity if the attempt to get him here should not
succeed.
Thursday, 28th.
Sent a letter (with an Act of the Legislature of the
State of Rhode Island, for calling a Convention of that
State, to decide on the Constitution of the Union,) from
Governor Collins, to both Houses of Congress — to do
which, was requested by the act, of the President.
The following gentlemen dined here, viz : the Vice-Pres-
ident, the Secretary of the Treasury — Messrs. Schuyler,
Morris, Izard, Dalton and Butler, of the Senate ; and
Messrs. Smith, (South Carolina,) Stone, Schureman, Fitz-
simmons, Sedgwick, Huger, and Madison, of the House of
Representatives.
NORTHERN TOUR. 85
Friday, 29th.
Exercised on horseback this forenoon ; during my ride,
Mr. Johnston, one of the Senators from North Carolina,
who had just arrived, came to pay his respects, as did Mr.
Cushing, one of the Associate Judges — the latter came
again about 3 o'clock, introduced by the Vice-President.
Received from the Governor of North Carolina, an Act
of the Legislature of that State, authorizing the Senators
thereof, or one of the Senators and two of the Representa-
tives, to make (on certain conditions) a Deed of Session of
their Western Territory, described within certain natural
boundaries ; and requesting that the same should be laid
before the Congress of the United States.
Received also a letter from the Baron de Steuben, decla-
rative of his distresses; occasioned by the non-payment or
non-fulfilment of the contract which was made with him
by the Congress under the former Confederation,113 and re-
questing my official interference in his behalf. The deli-
cacy of this case from the nature and long laboring of it,
requires consideration.
The visitors to Mrs. Washington this evening were nu-
merous and respectable.
43 On the 13th of June, 1785, the Continental Congress resolved to
pay Baron de Steuben the sura of $1,820, with the interest thereon.
On the 27th of September following, a further sum of seven thousand
dollars was voted to be paid to him. These sums were to be given ii.
consideration of his services during the Revolution.
86 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Saturday, 30th.
Exercised with Mrs. Washington and the children in the
coach in the forenoon. Walked round the Battery in the
afternoon.
Sunday, 31st.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon
Mr. Wilson, one of the Associate Judges of the Su-
preme Court, paid his respects to me after I returned from
church.
Spent the afternoon in writing letters to Mount Vernon.
FEBRUARY, 17 9 0.
Monday, 1st.
Agreed on Saturday last to take Mr. McCombs' house,
lately occupied by the Minister of France, for one year
from and after the first day of May next ; and would go
into it immediately, if Mr. Otto, the present possessor,
could be accommodated ; and this day sent my Secretary
to examine the rooms to see how my furniture could be
adapted to the respective apartments.
Tuesday, 2d.
Exercised in the carriage with Mrs. Washington.
On my return found Mr. Blair, one of the Associate
Judges, the Attorney-General of the United States, and
Col. Bland here.
NORTHERN TOUR. 87
The Levee to-day was much crowded, and very respecta-
ble ; among other company, the District Judge and Attor-
ney, with the Marshall and all the Grand Jurors of the
Federal District Court, (and a respectable body they were)
attended.
Sent (yesterday) the Deed of Session of the Western
Lands, by the State of North Carolina, to the United
States, to both Houses of Congress.
Wednesday, 3d.
Visited the apartments in the house of Mr. McCombs —
made a disposition of the rooms — fixed on some furniture of
the Minister's44 (which was to be sold, and was well adapt-
ed to particular public rooms) — and directed additional
stables to be built.45
« One piece of furniture "fixed on" was a writing desk or secre-
tary, and also an easy chair that was used with it. In his will Wash-
ington disposed of these as follows :
"To my companion in arms and old and intimate friend, Dr. Craik,
I give my beaureau (or as cabinet-makers call it, tambour secretary)
and the circular chair, an appendage of my study." These articles are
now in the possession of the Eev. James Craik, of Louisville, Ken-
tucky, a grandson of Dr. Craik. Drawings of them may be seen in
Lossing's " Mount Vernon and its Associations," page 215.
« This was on Broadway, west side, a little below Trinity Church.
It was subsequently occupied as an hotel, and was called The Mansion
House. The residence previously occupied by the President was on
Cherry-street, just out of Franklin Square. By the removal of some
buildings at the junction of Pearl and Cherry streets, that house
had a front on Franklin Square for many years. It was demolished
in 1856.
88 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Thursday, 4th.
Received from a Committee of both Houses of Congress,
an Act entitled " An Act for giving effect to the several
Acts therein mentioned, in respect to the State of North
Carolina, and other purposes."
The following company dined here, viz : The Vice-Pres-
ident, the Chief Justice of the United States, Judges Cush-
ing, Wilson, and Blair, of the Supreme Court, and Judge
Duane, of the District Court ; the Attorney-General of the
United States (Randolph) ; the Marshall, Attorney, and
Clerk of the District, viz : Smith, Harrison, and Troup ;
Mr. Johnson and Mr. Hawkins, of the Senate, and the Sec-
retaries of the Treasury and War Departments, to wit : —
Hamilton and Knox.
Friday, 5th.
Received from Doctr. Williamson, of North Carolina, a
list of names whom he thought would be proper to fill the
Revenue offices in that State. Submitted the same to the
Senators of that State for their inspection and alteration.
Saturday, 6th.
Walked to my newly engaged lodgings to fix on a spot
for a new stable which I was about to build. Agreed with
to erect one 30 feet square, 1 6 feet pitch, to contain
12 single stalls; a hay loft, racks, mangers, &c. ; planked
floor, and underpinned with stone, with windows between
each stall, for £65.
NORTHERN TOUR. 89
The resignation of Mr. Harrison as an Associate Judge,
making a nomination of some other character to supply his
place necessary, I determined, after contemplating every
character which presented itself to my view, to name Mr.
Iredell, of North Carolina ; because, in addition to the
reputation he sustains for abilities, legal knowledge, and
respectability of character, he is of a State of some import-
ance in the Union — that has given no character to a fed-
eral office. In ascertaining the character of this gentle-
man, I had recourse to every means of information in my
power, and found them all concurring in his favor.
Sunday, *7th.
"Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Monday, 8th.
Nominated officers for the Revenue department in North
Carolina. Mr. Iredell as an Associate Judge ; and all those
who had been temporarily appointed during the recess of
the Senate to fill resigned offices ; likewise Major Samuel
Shaw, as Consul for Canton, in China.
Sent the Bill which had been presented to me on Thurs-
day last, back to the House of Representatives, with my
approving signature.
Tuesday, 9th.
A good deal of company at the Levee to-day.
Exercised on horseback in the forenoon.
90 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Wednesday, 10th.
Sat from 9 until 1 1 o'clock for Mr. Trumbull to draw my
picture in his historical pieces.46 Dispatched Commis-
sions, and all the necessary Acts, to the Revenue officers in
North Carolina.
Thursday, 11th.
Exercised on horseback in the forenoon.
The following gentlemen dined here, viz : Messrs. Leon-
ard and Groal, of Massachusetts ; Huntington and Sturges,
of Connecticut ; Silvester, of New York ; Sinnickson, of
New Jersey ; Gale, of Maryland ; and Bland, Parker and
Moore, of Virginia.
Friday, 12th.
Sat from 9 o'clock until 11, for Mr. John Trumbull, for
the purpose of drawing my picture.
A good deal of company (gentlemen and ladies) to visit
Mrs. Washington this afternoon.
Saturday, 13th.
Walked in the forenoon to the house to which I am
about to remove. Gave directions for the arrangement of
the furniture, &c, and had some of it put up.
« These "historical pieces" were the battles of Trenton and Prince-
ton. Mr. Trumbull had arrived from Paris in November, 1789, and
proceeded to paint as many of the heads of the signers of the Declara-
tion of Independence as were present in Congress, at the second ses-
sion, which commenced in New York on the fourth of January, 1790.
At the same time he painted the portrait of Washington on horseback,
for his " historical pieces," above referred to.
NORTHERN TOUR. 91
Sunday, 14th.
At home all day — writing private letters to Virginia.
Monday, 15th.
Sat between 9 and 11, for Mr. John Trumbull.
Sent to both Houses of Congress a Letter from the Pres-
ident of New Hampshire, enclosing the adopted articles of
amendments of the Constitution of the United States, pro-
posed by the latter at its last session, to the States indi-
vidually. Perused two letters to Col0- Hawkins, of the
Senate, sent to me by the Secretary of War for my infor-
mation. The one from a Lardin Clark, dated Nashville,
Warren County, the 8th of Sept'r, 1789 ; the other from
Brig'r Genl. Joseph Martin, dated Smith's River, Jan. 7,
1790. The first of these letters mentions that the loose and
disorderly people that first settled the district in which he
is, remove, as government (by means of the Superior Court)
is extended amongst them, and supplied by persons of bet-
ter character and morals. That the Spanish Governor of
Louisiana is holding out every lure to invite the citizens of
the United States to settle under that government. That
a Doctor White, who has been some time at New Orleans,
does not seem to like the government, and discourages our
settlers from migrating to it till it can at least be seen what
measures the government of the Union will take respecting
the navigation of the Mississippi. That conventions which
it had been proposed to hold in Kentucky, and other dis-
tricts of the western country, for the purpose of addressing
92 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
the old Congress on this subject, had been proposed for the
same reason. That there was no appearance of giving up
the Post of the Natchez to the United States, though il
was within their territory ; on the contrary, Roman Cath-
olic Churches were built there, and provision made for
newly arrived priests. That the Spanish Governor has said
that it is not want of land that make them oppose our set-
tlements, or which causes them to withhold the navigation
of the Mississippi from us, but because they do not like our
advancing in such numbers, and so fast upon them. In
short, they act under the operation of fear and jealousy,
though they will not acknowledge these to be the motives
for their conduct. That it has been reported through the
Western Settlements that Mr. Gardoqui had invited them
to put themselves under the Spanish government, with as-
surances of peace and trade as consequences of it ; and that
Governor, by proclamation, had invited them to become
inhabitants of Louisiana. That any person (he is informed)
may take produce to New Orleans, paying 15 pr. ct. duty
to the King. That the force (military) in the two Floridas
consist of two regiments, of 600 men each ; and he is told
a third is ordered to be raised, to consist entirely of Span-
iards by birth. That the district in which he is, populates
fast and will soon make a State. And as the navigation of
the Mississippi is essential to them, it must be obtained by
treaty, or by force, or they must connect themselves with
the Spaniards. That it is not supposed the two Floridas
and Louisiana contain more than 20,000 souls. That the
distance from Nashville to New Orleans by land (which he
has traveled) is about 450 or 500 miles, and not a mountain
NORTHERN TOUR. 93
and hardly a hill in the way. That this year he sup-
poses they will make 300 hhds. of tobacco — for which
3±d. only is given, when the Spaniard gets 10 dollars pr.
hd. wt.
The other letter from Gen. Martin encloses the report of
a Committee of the Assembly of North Carolina, which had
been appointed to examine into a correspondence between
him and Mr. McGillivray, by which he stands acquitted of
any intention to injure the United States, or any of them.
Informs him that from tolerable good information, he has
just heard that the Chickasaw Nation had made a stroke at
the Chicamages Indians, and were driving all before them.
That several women and children of the latter had run to
the inhabitants of Little River for refuge. That he shall
set out in a few days, and as soon as the particulars can be
known will give information of them. Wishes to know
whether Congress approves of this war or not. Thinks he
can easily stop it, if it does not meet their approbation.
But adds, their wars with one another may be the means of
peace to our frontiers. Requests a hint on the subject by
way of Richmond, directed to the care of the Post-master
there.''7
*7 This matter was in relation to Tennessee, which had belonged to
North Carolina. It was erected into a Territory in 1790 (having been
cedi d to the United States, by North Carolina, in 1784), under the title
of "Territory south of the river Ohio," as distinguished from the
" North-western Territory." In 1789, the Legislature of North Caro-
lina authorized its representatives in Congress to execute deeds of con-'
veyanee of Tennessee to the United States, which they did the follow-
ing year. Tennessee was admitted into the Union in 1796.
94 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
Tuesday, 16th.
Intended to have used exercise on horseback, but the
weather prevented my doing it. Ride to my intended
habitation, and gave some directions respecting the arrange-
ment of the furniture.
The Levee to-day was thin.
Received some papers from the Secretary at "War respect-
ing a correspondence to be opened between Col. Hawkins,
of the Senate, and Mr. McGillivray, of the Creek Nation,
for the purpose of getting the latter, with some other chiefs
of that nation to this place, as an expedient to avert a war
with them. But, the commissioning a person to negotiate
this business with McGillivray, without laying the matter
before the Senate, and the expense of the business appear-
ing to bring in question the powers of the President, I
requested to see and converse with the Secretary of War,
tomorrow, on this subject.
Wednesday, 17th.
The Secretary attending ; and reference being had to
the Act constituting the Department of War, and the Act
appropriating 20,000 dollars for the expense of treating
with the Southern Indians seeming to remove (at least in a
degree) the above doubts, but not in an unequivocal man-
ner, I desired him to take the opinion of the Chief Justice
of the United States and that of the Secretary of the Treas-
ury on these points, and let me know the result.
NORTHERN TOUR. 95
Thursday, 18th.
Sat for Mr. Trumbull from 9 o'clock till 10 ; after which
exercised in the post-chaise with Mrs. Washington. On
our return home called on Mrs. Adams, lady of the Vice-
President.
The following company dined here to-day, viz : — Judge
Cushing and his lady ; the Postmaster General and his
lady, and Messrs. Boudinot, Griffin, Coles, Gerry, and
White, and their ladies.
Sent a Message to the Senate with the copies of a letter
from the Governor of Massachusetts, and a resolve of the
Assembly of that State, respecting the disputed boundary
between them and the British of Nova Scotia.
Friday, 19th.
Exercised on horseback about 9 o'clock. Walked after-
wards to my new house.
Received a Capt. Drew, Com'r of a British sloop of war,
sent express to Sir John Temple, Consul-General of that
nation in the United States.
The visitors this evening to Mrs. Washington were nu-
merous and respectable.
Saturday, 20th.
Sat from 9 until 11, for Mr. Trumbull. Walked after-
wards to my new house — then rode a few miles with Mrs.
Washington and the children before dinner ; after which
I again visited my new house in my coach (because it
rained).
96 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Sunday, 21st.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon — wrote let-
ters respecting my domestic concerns afterwards.
Monday, 2 2d.
Set seriously about removing my furniture to my new
house. Two of the gentlemen of the family had their beds
taken there, and would sleep there to-night.
Tuesday, 23d.
Few or no visitors at the Levee to-day, from the idea of
my being on the move. After dinner, Mrs. Washington,
myself, and children removed, and lodged at our new hab-
itation.
Wednesday, 24th.
Employed in arranging matters about the house and fix-
ing matters.
Thursday, 25th.
Engaged as yesterday.
In the afternoon a Committee of Congress presented an
Act for enumerating the inhabitants of the United States.
Friday, 26th.
A numerous company of gentlemen and ladies were here
this afternoon.
Exercised on horseback this forenoon.
NORTHERN TOUR. 97
Saturday, 27th.
Sat for Mr. Trumbull this forenoon ; after which exer-
cised in the coach with Mrs. Washington and the children.
Sunday, 28th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon. Wrote let-
ters on private business afterwards.
MARCH, 1790.
Monday, 1st.
Exercised on horseback this forenoon, attended by Mr.
John Trumbull, who wanted to see me mounted.
Informed the House of Representatives (where the Bill
originated) that I had given my assent to the act for taking
a Census of the People.
Also communicated to both Houses the application from
the field officers of Harrison County, (made through the
County Lieutenant, Col0- Duval,) for assistance, as they
apprehend the season was near at hand when Indian depre-
dations would be commenced. With these, some other
papers respecting the Western Frontiers were sent.
Tuesday, 2d.
Much and respectable company was at the Levee to-day.
Caused a letter to be written to the Gov'r of St. Jago,
respecting the imprisonment of a Capt. Hammond.
98 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Wednesday, 3d.
Exercised on horseback between 9 and 11 o'clock.
Thursday, 4th.
Sat from 9 until half after 10 o'clock for Mr. Trumbull.
The following gentlemen dined here to-day, viz : — the
Vice-President, Messrs. Langdon, Wingate, Dalton, Strong,
Ellsworth, Schuyler, King, Patterson, Morris, McClay, Bas-
sett, Henry, Johnson, Hawkins, Izard, Butler, and Few, all
of the Senate.
Friday, 5th.
A very numerous company of ladies and gentlemen here
this evening.
Saturday, 6th.
Exercised in the coach with Mrs. Washington and the
children, and in the afternoon walked round the Battery.
Received a letter from the Governor of the western terri-
tory, dated at the Rapids of Ohio,48 giving an account of the
state of affairs in the western country.
Sunday, 7th.
At home all day — writing letters on private business.
Monday, 8th.
Sent to both Houses of Congress the Resolves of the
Delaware State, to adopt and make part of the Constitu-
48 Now Louisville, Kentucky.
NEW Y()KK. 99
tion of the United States, the amendments proposed by the
General Government — except the first article of the said
amendments, the consideration of which they postponed.
Tuesday, 9th.
A good many gentlemen attended the Levee to-dav —
among whom were many members of Congress.
Wednesday, 10th.
Exercised on horseback between 9 and 11 o'clock. On
my return had a long conversation with Col°- Willet,49 who
was engaged to go as a private agent, but for public pur-
poses, to Mr. McGillivray, principal chief of the Creek
Nation. In this conversation he was impressed with the
critical situation of our affairs with that nation — the impor-
tance of getting him and some other chiefs to this city —
the arguments justifiable for him to use to effect this — with
such lures as respected McGillivray personally, and might
be held out to him. His (Col0- Willet's) going, was not to
have the appearance of a governmental act — he, and the
business he went upon, would be introduced to McGillivray
by Col0- Hawkins, of the Senate, (from North Carolina,)
who was a correspondent of M'Gillivray's — but he would
be provided with a passport for him and other Indian
Chiefs, if they inclined to make use of it ; but not to part
with it if they did not. The letter from Col ■ Hawkins to
49 Marinus Willet, one of the active " Liberty Boys," in New York,
when the Revolution was kindling, and a meritorious officer during
that war.
100 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
McGillivray was calculated to bring to his and the view of
the Creek Nation the direful consequences of a rupture with
the United States. The disposition of the general govern-
ment to deal justly and honorably by them — and the
means by which they, the Creeks, may avert the calamities
of war, which must be brought on by the disorderly people
of both nations, if a Treaty is not made and observed. His
instructions relative to the principal points to be negotiated
would be given to Col0- Willet, in writing, by the Secre-
tary of War.
Thursday, 11th.
A letter from Arthur Campbell, Esqr., of Washington
County, Virginia, to the Secretary at War, was put into
my hands by the latter, containing the following informa-
tion— the letter dated 6th Feb., '90 :
That half the Cherokee Nation would desire to remain
neuter in case of a war between the United States and
the Creek Indians, viz : — those in the neighborhood of
Chota, and all those which are called the Middle Set-
tlements. The towns on the Tennessee below Hiwas-
see, and those on the heads of the Caussa, would aid
the Creeks.
That from the Long Island in Holstein to the Junction
of French Broad, the navigation is equal to that of
Monongahela between the mouth of Cheat and Pitts-
burgh— below it, it is exceeding good to where the
river passes through Cumberland Mountain, a distance
of about 150 miles by water. Here the river runs with
great rapidity against a steep rock, which forms its
NEW YORK. 101
bank and makes a short turn, and gives this place
the name of the whirl ; the river here being not
more than the fourth of its common breadth— above
and below it is very deep but not dangerous, with
care.
That from this place the river runs with a gentle current
southerly, near the foot of the Cumberland Mountain,
on the west side for about 100 miles, (something east-
wardly of this distance the mountain ends,) then it
begins to turn northwardly 100 miles more to the
upper end of the Muscle Shoals.
That these Muscle Shoals are gentle rapids for about 30
miles, and the difficulty lays in strangers missing the
right channel — the river being 2 miles wide and full
of small islands.
That the Creek landing on the Tennessee is about 80
miles below the whirl, from whence there is a good
road to the Caussa, on the branches of which, and the
Alabama river, (both waters of the Mobile) most of
the upper Creeks live.
That below the Muscle Shoals a row-boat of any size
may ascend the river with almost the same facility it
passes downwards.
That from Nashville to the lower settlements on Hol-
stein the new road is computed 180 miles. Miro is
the name of the district.
That from Nashville to the Muscle Shoals is 70 miles,
102 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
That it is the upper Creeks generally, the Cherokees of
the lower towns, to wit, Chickamaga, Nickajack and
Crows Town, that give annoyance to the Southern
settlements of Kentucky, the path through the wilder-
ness, and the Holstein settlements.
That the Miro District (which contains all the Cumber-
land settlements,) can raise 800 good militia men —
total number of inhabitants may be about 4,000,
besides slaves.
That Washington District in North Carolina contains
4,000 militia, and Washington District in Virginia
about 2,000 militia — the two latter mostly in Holstein
Valley.
That Kentucky District has between 8 and 10,000 men.
That in his opinion a regiment of militia could be raised
to go against the Southern Indians, to serve one com-
pany in six weeks after the officers should receive
orders for the purpose, and that before the expiration
of that time 560 regular troops could be enlisted to
serve three years or better — call them rangers. The
light infantry companies and troops of horse in the
different western counties might be ordered into
service agreeable to the existing laws of Virginia.
Out of these a fine Ranging Regiment might be
enlisted.
That the distances, as computed, from place to place, are
as follow, viz :
NEW YORK. 1^
From Lexington, in Kentucky,
To Danville 30 miles.
Green River 60
Big Barren River 60
Red River Station 40
Nashville, on CumVd 25
Muscle Shoals l0
285.
From Lexington to Crab Orchard 40 miles.
To Cumberland Gap 10°
The mouth of Hiwassee ?0
Big Shoemac Town (Cherokee) . . 40
Creek Towns 60
310.
From Nashville to Holstein —
To Bledsoes Liek 30 miles.
Big Salt Lick (Cumber'd) 30
Junction of the Holstein and Ten-
nessee 10° "
160.
From the mouth of Holstein, the direct way to the
Creek Towns —
To Hiwassee old Town (Cherokees). 40 miles.
Big Shoemac ou
Upper Creeks or Caussa Waters . 60
^ 130.
The following gentlemen dined here to-day, viz :
Mr. Read, of the Senate, the Speaker, and following
gentlemen of the House of Representatives, viz -.-Messrs.
Gilman, Goodhue, Aimes, Wadsworth, Trumbull, Benson,
104 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
Lawrence, Peter Muhlenberg, Wynkoop, Vining, Carroll.
Contee, Madison, Page, and Sumpter — also Judge Bedford
and Mr. John Trumbull.
Friday the 12th.
Exercised in the Post chaise with Mrs. Washington from
10 o'clock till near 12.
Signed the Passport which was to be committed to Col0-
Willet for Mr. McGillivray and other Chiefs of the Creek
Nation of Indians, and other papers necessary for his setting
out on this business.50
A Pretty numerous company of visiters this evening to
Mrs. Washington's Levee.
Saturday, 13th.
Exercised about 11 o'clock with Mrs. Washington &
the Children, in the coach.
Sunday, 14th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon— wrote let-
ters on private business afterwards.
60 See Note, page 99. Also Diary, "Wednesday, March 10th. Colonel
"Willet persuaded McGillivray to accompany him to New York. He
was accompanied by twenty-eight principal chiefs and warriors of his
nation, and was received with marked attention at Philadelphia and
the seat of government. At the latter place the Tammany Society took
a conspicuous part in the reception. McGillivray was chosen honorary
member of the St. Andrew's Society of that city, his father being a
Scotchman. A treaty was consummated during the visit, by which
mutual concessions were made.
NEW YORK. 105
Monday, 15th.
Received an Address from the Roman Catholics of the
United States, presented by Mr. Carroll of the Senate, Mr.
Carroll & Mr. Fitzimmons of the House of Representa-
tives and many others, Inhabitants of the City of New
York.
Received a letter from the Executive of the State of
Pensylvania, by the hands of a Mr. Ryerson, one of
the Representatives of that State in Assembly, respecting
the exposed state of the County of Washington — this let-
ter I sent to the Secretary of War to be laid before Con-
gress.
I also received from the Speaker of the Assembly of
Pensylvania, an Act, adopting the amendments to the Con-
stitution as proposed by Congress, except the first article
thereof.51
And Mr. Few, Senator from the State of Georgia, pre-
sented me with the copy of an Address from that State
requiring to knw. when it would be convenient for me to
receive it in form. Finding it out of the usual style — State
politics being blended therewith, I informed Mr. Few that
" Amendments to the Federal Constitution were proposed by the dif-
ferent States, but not one of them was of a vital character. Seventeen
of the numerous amendments were finally agreed to by the House of
Representatives, but these were reduced to twelve by the Senate. Two
of them were important. A member pronounced the other ten "of no
more value than a pinch of snuff, since they went to secure rights never
in danger." In the course of two years these ten, only, received the
sanction of the several States.
106 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
as soon as I could make it convenient to receive it Ho
should have notice thereof.
Tuesday, 16th.
Exercised on horseback between 10 & 12 o'clock :
previous to this, I was visited (having given permisn.) by a
Mr. Warner Miflin, one of the People called Quakers;
active in pursuit of the Measures laid before Congress for
emancipating the Slaves :52 after much general conversation,
and an endeavor to remove the prejudices which he said
had been entertained of the motives by which the attend-
ing deputation from their society were actuated, he used
arguments to show the immorality — injustice — and impol-
icy of keeping these people in a state of Slavery ; with
declarations, however, that he did not wish for more than
a gradual abolition, or to see any infraction of the Consti-
tution to effect it. To these I replied, that as it was a
matter which might come before me for official decision I
was not inclined to express any sentimts. on the merits of
the question before this should happen.
The day being bad, not may visiters attended the Levee.
At it Mr. Smith of South Carolina, presented the copy of
an Address from the Intendant and of the City of
69 In February, a petition from the yearly meetings of Quakers of
Pennsylvania and Delaware, and seconded by another from New York,
were presented in Congress, praying for the abolition of the slave trade.
Another was presented the next day, from the Pennsylvania Anti-Sla-
very Society, signed by Dr. Franklin as president, on the same subject.
These petitions, and proceedings thereon, produced much agitation in
Congress and throughout the country, during the spring of 1790.
NEW YORK. 107
Charleston, and was told that I would receive it in form on
Thursday at 11 o'clock.
Wednesday, 17th.
Gave Mi. Few notice that I would receive the address of
the Legislature of Georgia to morrow at half after ten
o'clock.
Sent to both Houses of Congress the Ratification of the
State of Pensylvania, of the amendments proposed by
Congress to the Constitution of the Union.
Thursday, 18th.
At half past 10 I received the address of the Legislature
of Georgia — presented by Mr. Few the Senator <fc the 3
Representatives of the State in Congress.
At 11 o'clock the address from the Intendant and
Wardens of the City of Charleston was presented by Mr.
Smith.
The following Gentlemen dined here — viz : Messrs. Liv-
ermore, Foster, Patridge, Thatcher, Sherman, Fitzimmons,
Hartley, Seney, See, Burke, Tucker, Baldwin, Jackson &
Mathews of the Representatives in Congress — and Mr. Otis
Secretary of the Senate, and Mr. Beckley Clerk of the
House of Representatives.
In the Evening (about 8 o'clk) I went with Mrs. Wash-
ington to the assembly where there were betwn. 60 & 70
Ladies & many Gentlemen.
108 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Friday, 19th.
Exercised on Horseback betwn. 9 and 11 o'clock.
Information being given by Mr. Van Berkel, that Mr.
Cazenove63 just arrived from Holland, and of a principal
Mercantile House there had letters for me which he
wished to deliver with his own hands and requested to know
when he might be presented for that purpose. It was
thought, before this should be done, it might be proper to
know whether they were of a public nature, and whether
he was acting in a public character. If so, then to let
them come to me through the Secretary of State — if not,
then for him to send them, that the purport might be
known before he was introduced, which might be at the
next Levee, when he might be received and treated agreea-
bly to the consequence he might appear to derive from the
testimonials of the letters. — It being conceived that eti-
quette of this sort is essential with all foreigners to give a
respect to the Chief Magistrate, and the dignity of the
Government, which would be lessened if every person who
could procure a letter of introduction should be presented
otherwise than at Levee hours in a formal manner.
Saturday, 20th.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington and the
Children.
53 This gentleman was one of a company from Amsterdam, who pur-
chased land in Central New York. The town of Cazenovia, in Madison
county, founded in 1795, and the village of the same name incorporat-
ed in 1800, were named in honor of Mr. Cazenove.
NEW YORK. 109
Sunday, 21st.
Went to St. Pauls Chappel in the forenoon — wrote
private letters in the afternoon.
Received Mr. Jefferson, Minister of State about one
o'clock.54
Monday, 22d.
Sat for Mr. Trumbull for my Picture in his Historical
pieces, — after which conversed for more than an hour with
Mr. Jefferson on business relative to the duties of his office.
Tuesday, 23d.
A full & very respectable Levee to day, — previous to
which I had a conversation with the Secretary of State on
the following points, viz — First with respect to our Captives
in Algiers," in which, after detailing their situation — the
measures he had taken for their relief — and the train in
54 Thomas Jefferson had been called to Washington's cabinet as Sec-
retary of State, on his return from France, where he had resided as
minister, for some time. After a tedious journey of a fortnight from
Richmond, in Virginia, Mr. Jefferson reached New York on the 21st of
March.
55 At this time Algerine corsairs were committing great depredations
upon commerce in the Mediterranean sea, and many seamen were
made prisoners and sold as slaves. A treaty was finally made, by
which tribute was to be paid to the Dey in consideration of his keep-
ing his corsairs from molesting American commerce. In after years
this degrading agreement was broken by the United States, and their
commerce and seamen protected by cannon.
110 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
■which the business was in by means of a Genl. who
is at the head of a religious society in France whose prac-
tice it is to sollicit aid for the relief of the unfortunate
Christians in Captivity among the Barbarians, it was
concluded betwn. us, that it had better remain in that
train a while longer, — this person had been authorized to
go as far as about £150 Sterlg. each, for the ransom of our
Captives ; but the Algerines demanding a much larger sum
it was conceived that acceding to it might establish a
precedent which would always operate and be very
burthensome if yielded to ; and become a much stronger
inducement to captivate our People than they now have,
as it is more for the sake of the Ransom than for the
labour, that they make Slaves of the Prisoners. Mr. Short56
was to be written to on this subject, and directed to make
enquiry of this General what his expectations of
redemption are at present.
Second, — He is of opinion, that excepting the Court of
France, there is no occasion to employ higher grades in the
Diplomatic line than Charge des Affaires ; and that these,
by the respectibility of their appointments, had better be
at the head of their grade, than Ministers Plenipotentiaries
by low salaries at the foot of theirs. The reason of the
distinction, in favor of a Minister Plenipo' at Versailles, is,
that there are more Ambassadors at that Court than any
other and therefore that we ought in some measure to
86 Mr. Short, Secretary of Legation, was left by Mr. Jefferson in Paris,
as virtual Charge d1 Affaires of the United States at the French Court.
Washington afterwards appointed him to that office.
NEW YORK.
Ill
approximate our Representative — and besides, its being a
Court with which we have much to do.
Third, — With respect to the appointment of Consuls he
refers to a letter on the nature of this business — the
places where necessary — and the characters best entitled to
appointmts. which he had written on the subject, while in
France, to the Secretary of Foreign affairs.
Fourth, — That it might be advisable to direct Mr. Char-
michael" to Sound the Spanish Ministry with respect to the
obstacles which had hitherto impeded a Commercial
Treaty, to see if there was any disposition in them to relax
in their Territorial claims & exclusive right to the Naviga-
tion of River Missisipi.
Wednesday, 24th.
Prevented from Riding by the unfavourableness of the
weather. <
Thursday, 25th.
Went in the forenoon to the Consecration of Trinity
Church, when a Pew was constructed, and set apart for the
President of the United Sts.53
67 Sir. Carmichael was the diplomatic agent for the United States, at
the court of Madrid. He was specially charged with the negotiation of
a treaty, that should secure to the citizens of the United States the free
navigation of the Mississippi river, the lower portion then being under
the control of the Spanish government. This was finally effected.
»s The resolution to set apart a pew in Trinity Church, for the Presi-
dent of the United States, was adopted by the wardens and vestrymen
on Monday, the 8th of February, 1790. The Right Rev'd Bishop
112 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Received from the Senate their opinion and advice on
the Papers which had been submitted to them respecting
the Incroachments on the Eastern boundary of the United
States, and the disputes consequent thereof.
And from a Comee. of Congress two Acts — one, for
establishing the mode for uniformity in Naturalization of
Foreigners — the other making appropriations for the sup-
port of Government for the year 1790. By this last was
granted,
doll'rs cents
141.492 — 73 —for the Civil list.
155.537 — 72 — War Department.
96.979 — 72 — Invalid Pensions.
10.000 — President for Contingent
Services of Government.
147.169 — 54 — For demands enumerated by the
Secrety. of ye Treasy. on wch.
the light Ho. on Cape Henry is
includd.
120 — To Jehoiakim McToksin.
96 — " James Mathers.
96 — " Gifford Dally.
551.491 — 71. Total amount.
Provoost was Rector, John Jay and James Duane were wardens.
The vestrymen were Hon'ble William S. Johnson, Thomas Randall,
Hubert Van Wagenen, John Lewis, Andrew Hammersley, John Jones,
William Laight, James Farquhar, Charles Stanton, Robert C. Living-
ston, Mathew Clarkson, Nicholas Kortright, Alexander Aylesbury,
George Dominick, Nicholas Carman, Moses Rogers, and Richard Har-
rison.
NEW YORK. 113
The following Company dined here to day — viz — The
Chief Justice Jay & his Lady, Genl. Schuyler & his Lady,
the Secretary of the Treasury and his Lady, the Secretary
of War & his Lady <fc Mrs. Greene, the Secretary of State
(Mr. Jefferson) Mr. Carroll & Mr. Henry of Senate, Judge
Wilson, Messrs. Madison & Page of the Ho. of Representa-
tives, and Col0- Smith Marshall of the District.
Friday, 26th.
Had a further conversation with the Secretary of State
on the subject of Foreign appointments, and on the Provi-
sion which was necessary for Congress to make for them —
the result of which was that under all circumstances it
might be best to have Ministers Plenipy. at the Courts of
France and England (if any advances from the latter
should be made) and Charges des Affaires in Spain & Por-
tugal— Whether it might be necessary to send a person in
this character to Holland — one in the character of Resi-
dent— or simply a person well skilled in commercial
matters among other characters being questionable, noth-
ing finally was decided — but it was concluded that the
Secretary's information to a Committee of Congress with
whom he was to converse on the subject of the Provision
to be made, that the salaries allowed to our Diplomatic
characters was too low — that the Grades which wd. be
fixed on, to transact our affairs abroad would be as low as
they cd. be made without giving umbrage, that therefore,
about 36.000 dollrs. might answer as a provision for the
characters to the Courts before named — or that it might
114 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
take forty-nine or 50.000 dollars if it should be found that
the lesser grades will not answer.
The company this evening was thin, especially of Ladies.
Saturday, 27th.
Exercised in the coach with Mrs. Washington and the
children.
Sunday, 28th.
Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon.
Monday, 29th.
Exercised on Horseback in the forenoon — and called at
Col0- Walton White's.59
Tuesday, 30th.
Exercised in the Post Chaise with Mrs. Washington.
The Company at the Levee to day was numerous &
respectable.
Wednesday, 31st.
Exercised on Horseback.
69 Colonel Anthony Walton White, of New Jersey, one of the most
distinguished of the cavalry officers in the Southern campaigns. Wash-
ington regarded Colonel White with peculiar friendship. On one oc-
casion he presented him with a gold pen in a silver case. It is pre-
served as a precious relic by his grand-daughter, Mrs. Evans, who
resides near New Brunswick, in New Jersey.
NEW YOKE. 115
APRIL, 1790.
Thursday the First.
Received from a Co-mee. of both Houses of Congress — the
following acts — viz : — " An Act to accept a cession of the
" claims of the State of No. Carolina to a certain District of
"Western Territory," and an "Act to prevent the exporta-
" tion of Goods not duly inspected according to the Laws of
" the several States."
Communicated to both Houses of Congress a letter from
the Govr. of So. Carolina, enclosing the adoption of the
amendments by that State agreeably to the recommenda-
tion of Congress.
The following Company dined here to day. — viz : — Gov-
ernor Clinton, the Speaker of the Senate & House of
Representatives of the State of New York, Judge Duane,
Baron de Steuben and Mr. Arthur Lee. Mr. lung of the
Senate, and the following members of the House of Repre-
sentatives— Mr. Leonard, Mr. Sedgwick, Mr. Grout, Mr.
Van Rensalaer, Mr. Hathrop, Mr. Clymer, Mr. Heister, Mr.
Stone, Mr. Williamson, Mr. Ash and Mr. Huger.
Friday-, 2d.
Deposited the above Acts in the Secretary of State's
Office and informed the Houses of Congress thereof.
But a thin company this Evening, on acct. of the bad-
ness of the weather, & its being good friday.
116 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Saturday, 3d.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington and the
Children.
Gave notice to the Senate House of Congress that I had
given my assent to the act accepting the Cession of No.
Carolina,60 & to the other House that I had passed the
Bill to prevent the exportation of Goods, not duly inspected
according to the Laws of the several States, these being the
Houses in wch. they respectively originated.
Received from the Governor of the State of New York
three acts of its Legislature — one adopting the amend-
ments (except the 2d.) proposed by Congress — another ced-
ing the Light House, at the Hook, to the United States,
and the third authorizing & commanding the Goalers
throughout the State to receive & safe keep Prisoners
committed under the Authority of the United States.
Sunday, 4th.
At home all day — unwell.
Monday, 5th.
Exercised with Mrs. Washington in the Post Chaise.
Sent duplicates of the Acts received (as above) from the
80 North Carolina ceded to the United States the Territory now con-
stituting the State of Tennessee, subject, however, to North-Carolina
land-warrants already issued. In the act of cession was a restriction
"that no regulation made or to be made by Congress shall tend to the
emancipation of slaves."
NEW YORK. 117
Executive of New York to both Houses of Congress for
their information ; & deposited the originals in the Sec-
retary of States Office.
Tuesday, 6th.
Sat for Mr. Savage, at the request of the Vice President,
to have ray Portrait drawn for hirn.61
The Company at the Levee to day was thin, — the day
was bad.
Wednesday, 7th.
Exercised with Mrs. Washington in the Post-Chaise.
Thursday, 8th.
The following Company dined here — viz — of the House
of Representatives — Mr. Gerry, Mr. Huntingdon, Mr. Cad-
waladcr, Mr. Boudinot, Mr. Sinnichson, Mr. Scott, Mr. Gale,
Mr. Parker, Mr. Moore, & Mr. Brown, of the Treasury
Department, the Comptroller (Mr. Eveleigh,) the Auditor,
(Mr. Walcot,) & the Register Mr. Nourse — and of the
Commissioners of Accts. Genl. Irvine, and Mr. Kean — to-
gether with Mr. Gore, attorney for the District of Massa-
chusetts.
Friday, 9th.
Exercised on Horseback in the forenoon.
Received the "Act for the encouragement of Arts
from a Comee. of Congress.
41 See Diary, Monday, 21st of December, 1789, and Note.
118 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
The company who visited Mrs. Washington this after-
noon was very numerous both of Gentlemen & Ladies.
Saturday, 10th.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington and the
Children — walked in the afternoon around the Battery and
through some of the principal Streets of the City.
In the afternoon the Secretary of State submitted for my
approbation Letters of credence for Mr. Short as Charge de
Affaires, at the Court of Versailles, & his own Letter to
Monsr. Montmorin, taking leave of that Court both di-
rected to that Minister — also to Mr. Short on the subject of
our Prisoners at Algiers. — And at Night he submitted the
copy of a letter he had drafted to Mr. Carmichael, respect-
ing the Governor of the Island of Juan Fernandez who had
been disgraced & recalled from his Government of that
Island for having permitted the ship Washington which
had suffered in a storm to put into that Port to repair the
damages she had sustained in it, & to recruit her Avood
and water, — this ship belonged to Banel & Co. of Boston.
Sunday, 11th.
Went to Trinity Church in the forenoon — and several
private letters in the afternoon.
Monday, 12th.
Exercised on Horseback after which did business with
the Secretaries of the Treasury and War Departments. —
NEW YORK. 110
The latter was directed to authorize the Judge of the
Western district Harry Innis to permit the County Lieu-
tenants of that District to employ 4 scouts in each of the
Frontier Counties for the purpose of discovering the move-
ments of the Indians & giving the alarm in case they are
about — the other Frontier Counties along the River Ohio
East side above the Kentucky district was also authorized
to keep out the same number of scouts.
The Secretary of State submitted the draught of a
Report to me, which he was about to make to the House
of Representatives in Congress consequent of a letter &
other Papers which had been referred to him on the
subject of coinage, — which report appeared to me to be
sensible & proper.62
Tuesday, 13th.
Exercised on Horseback about 10 o'clock.
A good deal of Company at the Levee to day.
Received from the Joint Committee of Congress " An
" Act furthr. to suspend pt. of an act to regulate the Col-
"lectn. of the Duties imposed by Law on the Tonnage of
" Ships &c. &c."
82 Mr. Jefferson urged upon Congress the necessity of a national
coinage, "to banish the discordant pounds, shillings, pence, and far-
things of the different States, and to establish in their stead, the new
denomination" — that is, the decimal currency, consisting of " a golden
piece of the value of ten dollars, a dollar in silver, a tenth of a dollar
in silver, and a hundredth of a dollar in copper." For full information
on this subject, see "Statesman's Manual," vol. iv., edition of 1858,
page 223.
120 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON
Wednesday, 14th.
Exercised in the Post Chaise with Mrs. Washington.
Thursday, 15th.
Returned the above Act (presented to me on Tuesday,)
to the House of Representatives in Congress in which it
originated with my approbation & signature.
The following Company dined here to day — viz —
The Vice President & Lady, the Chief Justice of the
United States & Lady, Mr. Izard & Lady, Mr. Dalton &
Lady, Bishop Provost & Lady, Judge Griffin & Lady
Christina, Col0- Griffin & Lady, Col0- Smith & Lady, the
Secretary of State, Mr. Langdon, Mr. King & Major Butler.
Mrs. King was invited but was indisposed.
Friday, 16th.
Had a long conference with the Secretary of State on
the subject of Diplomatic appointments — & on the proper
places & characters for Consuls or Vice Consuls.
After which I exercised on Horseback.
The Visiters of Gentlemen and Ladies to Mrs. Washing-
ton this evening were very numerous.
Saturday, 17th.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington and the
children.
LONG ISLAND. 121
Sunday, 18th.
At home all day — the weather being very stormy & bad,
wrote private letters.
Monday, 19th.
Prevented from beginning my tour upon Long Island to
day from the wet of yesterday and the unfavourableness of
the morning.
Conversed with the Secretary at War on the formation
of the Troops proposed, by the amendments in the Senate
to be established.
Tuesday, 20th.
About 8 o'clock (having previously sent over my Ser-
vants, Horses, and Carriage,) I crossed to Brooklyn and pro-
ceeded to Flat Bush — thence to Utrich63 — thence to Graves-
end — thence through Jamaica where we lodged
at a Tavern kept by one Warne — a pretty good and de-
cent house, — at the house of a Mr. Barre, at Utrich, we
dined, — the man was obliging but little else to recommend
it. — He told me that their average Crop of Oats did not
exceed 15 bushls. to the acre — but of Indian Corn they
commonly made from 25 to 30 and often more bushels to
the acre, but this was the effect of Dung from New York
(about 10 cart load to the acre) — That of Wheat they
sometimes got 30 bushels and often more of Rye.
The land after crossing the Hills between Brooklyn &
63 New Utrecht, on the western end of Long Island.
G
122 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
flat Bush is perfectly level, and from the latter to Utrich,
Gravesend and in short all that end of the Island is a rich
black loam — afterwards, between and the Jamaica
Road, it is more sandy and appears to have less strength,
but is still good & productive. — The grain in general had
suffered but little by the openess, and Rains of the Winter
and the grass (clover &c.) appeared to be coming on well,
— the Inclosures are small, & under open Post & Rail
fencing. — The timber is chiefly Hiccory & Oak, mixed
here and there with locust & Sasafras trees, — and in places
with a good deal of Cedar. — The Road until I came
within a mile or two of the Jamaica Road, called the
middle road kept within sight of the Sea, but the weather
was so dull & at times Rainy that we lost much of the
pleasures of the ride.
From Brooklyn to Flatbush is called 5 miles, thence to
Utrich 6 — to Gravesend 2 — and from thence to Jamaica 14
— in all this day 27 miles.
Before I left New York this morning, I signed Commis-
sions, appointing Mr. Carmichael Charge des Affaires at the
Court of Versailles,64 & Mr. Short, Charge des Affaires at
the Court of Versailles which though not usually given to
Diplomatic Characters of their Grades was yet made
necessary in the opinion of the Secretary of State by an
Act of Congress.
Wednesday, 21st.
The morning being clear & pleasent we left Jamaica
about eight o'clock, & pursued the Road to South Hemp-
** This should read Madrid.
LONG ISLAND. 123
stead, passing along the South edge of the plain of that
name— a plain said to be 14 miles in length by 3 or 4 in
breadth withot. a Tree or a shrub growing on it except
fruit trees (which do not thrive well) at the few settlemts.
thereon.— The soil of this plain is said to be thin & cold,
and of course not productive, even in Grass. — We baited
in South Hempstead, (10 miles from Jamaica) at the
House of one Simmonds, formerly a Tavern, now of
private entertainment for money. — From thence turning off
to the right, we fell into the South Rd. at the distance of
about five miles where we came in view of the Sea &
continued to be so the remaining part of the day's ride,
and as near it as the road could run, for the small bays,
marshes and guts, into which the tide flows at all times
rendering it impassible from the hight of it by the Easterly
winds. — We dined at one Ketchum's wch. had also been a
public House, but now a private one — received pay for what
it furnished— this House was about 14 miles from South
Hempstead & a very neat and decent one. — After dinner
we proceeded to a Squire Thompson's such a House as the
last, that is, one that is not public but will receive pay for
every thing it furnishes in the same manner as if it was. —
The Road in which I passed to day, and the Country
here more mixed with sand than yesterday and the soil of
inferior quality ;— yet with dung which all the Corn ground
receives the land yields on an average 30 bushels to the
acre often more. — Of wheat they do not grow much on
acct. of the Fly but the crops of Rye are good.
124
DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Thursday, 22d.
About 8 o'clock we left Mr. Thompson's — halted awhile
at one Greens distant 11 miles and dined Harts Tavern
in Brookhaven township, five miles farther. To this place
we travelled on what is called the South road described
yesterday, but the country through which it passed grew
more and more sandy and barren as we travelled Eastward,
so as to become exceedingly poor indeed, but a few miles
further Eastward the lands took a different complexion we
were informed. — From Hart's we struck across the Island
for the No. side passing the East end of the Brushey Plains
— and Koram55 8 miles — thence to Setakit66 7 miles more to
the House of a Capt. Roe, which is tolerably dect. with
obliging people in it.
The first five miles of the Road is too poor to admit In-
habitants or cultivation being a low scrubby Oak, not more
than 2 feet high intermixed with small and ill thriven Pines.
— Within two miles of Koram there are farms, but the land
is. of an indifferent quality much mixed with sand. —
Koram contains but few houses — from thence to Setaket
the soil improves, especially as you approach the Sound ;
but it is far from being of the first quality — still a good
deal mixed with Sand. — The road across from the So. to the
No. side is level, except a small part So. of Koram, but the
hills there are trifling.
65 Corum, near the centre of the town of Brookhaven.
*8 Setauket, one of the oldest settlements in Brookhaven.
LONG ISLAND. 125
Friday, 23d.
About 8 o'clock we left Roe's, and baited the Horses at
Smiths Town at a Widow Blidenberg's a decent House 10
miles from Setalkat — thence 15 miles to Huntington where
we dined — and afterwards proceeded seven miles to Oyster-
Bay, to the House of a Mr. Young (private and very neat
and decent) where we lodged. — The house we dined at in
Huntingdon was kept by a Widow Piatt, and was tolerably
good. — The whole of this clays ride was over uneven
ground and none of it of the first quality but intermixed in
places with pebble stone. — After passing Smiths-town <fc
for near five miles it was a mere bed of white Sand, unable
to produce trees 25 feet high ; but a change for the better
took place between that <fc Huntington, which is a sml.
village at the head of the Harbour of that name and con-
tinued to improve to Oyster-bay about which the Sands are
good — and in the Necks between these bays are said to be
fine. It is here the Lloyds own a large & valuable tract
or Neck of Land from whom the British whilst they pos-
sessed New York drew large supplies of wood67 — and where,
at present, it is said large flocks of Sheep are kept.
Saturday, 24th.
Left Mr. Young's before 6 o'clock and passing Musqueto
( love,68 breakfasted at a Mr. Underdunck's at the head of a
67 Lloyd's Neck was a great rendezvous for Tories during a part oi
the Revolution.
•* Now Glen Cove.
126 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
little bay ;69 where we were kindly received and well enter-
tained.— This Gentleman works a Grist <fe two Paper Mills,
the last of which he seems to carry on with spirit, and to
profit70 — distc. from Oyster-bay 12 miles. — From hence to
Flushing where we dined is 12 more — & from thence to
Brooklyne through Newton (the way we travelled and which
is a mile further than to pass through Jamaica) is 18 miles
more. The land I passed over to day is generally very
good, but leveller and better as we approached New York
— the soil in places is intermixed with pebble, and towards
the West end with other kind of stone, which they apply
to the purposes of fencing which is not to be seen on the
South side of the Island, nor towards the Eastern parts of
it. — From Flushing to New Town 8 miles & thence to
Brooklyn, the Road is very fine, and the Country in a
higher state of cultivation & vegetation of Grass & grain
forwarded than any place also, I had seen, occaisioned in a
great degree by the Manure drawn from the City of New
York, — before sundown we had crossed the Ferry and was
at home.
Observations.
This Island (as far as I went) from West to East seems
to be equally divided between flat, and Hilly land, the for-
«9 Henry Onderdonk's, upon the shore of the present Hempstead
Harbor, at the village of Koslyn.
70 This was the first paper-nnll erected in the province, and was es-
tablished by Andrew Onderdonk at about the middle of the last cen-
tury. There is a tradition in the family that, on this occasion, Wash-
ington made a sheet of paper (it then being made by hand) and that it
was preserved for a great many years.
LONG ISLAND. 127
mer on the South next the Seaboard, & the latter on the
No. next the Sound. — The highland they say is best and
most productive, but the other is the pleasantest to work,
except in wet seasons when from the levelness of them they
are sometimes, (but not frequently having a considerable
portion of Sand) incommoded by heavy «fc continual rains. —
From a comparative view of their crops they may be aver-
aged as follows. — Indian Corn 25 bushels — Wheat 15 —
Rye 12 — Oats 15 bushels to the acre. — According to their
accts. from Lands highly manured they sometimes get 50
of the first, 25 of the 2d & 3d, and more of the latter.
Their general mode of Cropping is, — first Indian Corn
upon a lay, manured in the hill, half a shovel full in each
hole — (some scatter the dung over the field equally) — 2d.
Oats & Flax — 3d. Wheat with what manure they can
spare from the Indian Corn land — with the Wheat, or
on it, towards close of the Snows, they sow Clover
from 4 to 6 lb ; <fc a quart of Timothy Seed. — This lays
from 3 to 6 years according as the grass remains, or as
the condition of the ground is, for so soon as they
find it beginning to bind, they plow. — Their first plow-
ing (with the Patent, tho' they call it the Dutch plow)
is well executed at the depth of about 3 or at most
4 Inches — the cut being 9 or 10 Inches «fc the sod neatly
& very evenly turned. — With Oxen they plough mostly.
They do no more than turn the ground in this manner for
Indian Corn before it is planted; making the holes in
which it is placed with hoes the rows being marked off by
a stick — two or three workings afterwards with the
Harrows or Plough is all the cultivation it receives gencr-
128 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
ally. — Their fences, where there is no Stone, are very
indifferent ; frequently of plashed trees of any & every kind
which have grown by chance ; but it exhibits an evidence
that very good fences may be made in this manner either
of white Oak or Dogwood which from this mode of
treatment grows thickest, and most stubborn. — This how-
ever, would be no defence against Hogs.
Sunday, 25th.
Went to Trinity Church, and wrote letters home after
dinner.
Monday, 26th.
Did business with the Secretaries of State, Treasury, and
War, — & appointed a quarter before three to-morrow to
receive from the Senators of the State of Virgna. an address
from the Legislature thereof.
Tuesday, 27th.
Had some conversation with Mr. Madison on the
propriety of consulting the Senate on the places to which
it would be necessary to send persons in the Diplomatic
line, and Consuls ; and with respect to the grade of the
first — His opinion coincides with Mr. Jay's and Mr. Jeffer-
son's— to wit — that they have no Constitutional right to
interfere with either, & that it might be impolitic to draw
it into a precedent, their powers extending no farther than
to an approbation or disapprobation of the person nom-
inated by the President, all the rest being Executive and
vested in the President by the Constitution.
NEW TORE. 129
At the time appointed, Messrs. Lee & Walker (the
Senators from Virginia) attended, <fc presented the Address
as mentioned yesterday & received an answer to it.
A good deal of respectable company was at the Levee to
day.
Wednesday, 28th.
Fixed with the Secretary of State on places & characters
for the Consulate — but as some of the latter were unknown
to us both he was directed to make enquiry respecting
them.
Sent the nominations of the officers in the Customs of
North Carolina, and one in the place of Mr. Jacob Wray of
Hampton in Virginia — who has requested to resign his
appointment to the Senate for their advice & consent
thereon.
Received from the Secretary for the Department of War
a report respecting the Sale of certain Lands by the State
of Georgia;71 and the consequent disputes in which the
United States may be involved with the Chicasaws <fc
Choctaw Nations ; part, if not the whole of whose Coun-
tries, are included within the limits of the said Sale. This
report refers to the Act, of the Legislature of Georgia, by
71 The first legislature of Georgia which convened under the Federal
Constitution, undertook to sell out to private companies, the pre-emp-
tion right to large tracts of land westward of the Chattahoochee river.
They sold five million of acres to the "South Carolina Yazoo Coi
ny," for the sum of $66,964, seven million of acres to the " Virginia
Yazoo Company," for £',';;,: J-j. ami three and a half million of acres to
the " Tennessee Yazoo Company," for $46,875. These transactions
gave rise to much trouble afterwards.
0*
130 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
which this Sale is authorized — and to the opinion of the
Attorney General respecting the Constitutionality of the
Proceeding — Submitting at the same time certain opinions
for the consideration of the Presidt.
Thursday, 29th.
Received from the Joint Committee of Congress two
Acts for my approbation & Signature — viz : —
One for "Regulating the Military Establisment of the
United States," and the other, "An Act for the Punish-
ment of certain crimes against the United States."
Fixed with the Secretary of State on the present which
(according to the custom of other Nations) should be
made to Diplomatic characters when they return from
that employment in this Country — and this was a gold
Medal, suspended to a gold Chain — in ordinary to be of
the value of about 120 or 130 Guineas — Upon enquiry
into the practice of other Countries, it was found, that
France generally gave a gold Snuff-box set with diamonds ;
& of differt. costs ; to the amount, generally, to a Minister
Plenipotentiary of 500 Louisdores — That England usually
gave to the same grade 300 guineas in Specie — and Holld.
a Medal & Chain of the value of in common, 150 or 180
guineas the value of which to be encreased by an additional
weight in the chain when they wished to mark a distin-
guished character. — The Reason why a Medal & Chain
was fixed upon for the American present, is, that the die
being once made the Medals could at any time be struck
at very little cost & the chain made by our artizans, which
NEW YORK. 131
(while the first should be retained as a memento) might be
converted into Cash.
The following Gentlemen dined here — viz — of the
Senate, Messrs. Strong, Doctr. Johnston, Mr. Patterson, Mr.
Morris, Mr. Carroll, Mr. Lee, Mr. Walker, Govr. Johnston.
«fe Mr. Gunn — and of the House of Representatives, Mr.
Sturges, Mr. Benson, Mr. Floyd, Mr. Scureman, Mr.
Vining, Mr. Smith Maryland, Mr. Bland, and Mr. Sumpk-r.
Friday, 30th.
Conversed with the Secretary of the Treasury, on the
Report of the Secretary at War's propositions respecting
the Conduct of the State of Georgia in selling to certain
companies, large tracts of their Western territory k a
proclamation which he conceived expedient to issue in
consequence of it. — But as he had doubts of the clearness
of the ground on which it was proposed to build this
proclamation and do the other acts which were also
submitted in the report — I placed it in the hands of the
Secretary of State to consider tfc give me his opinion
thereon.
Returnd. the Bills which had been presented to me by
the joint committee of Congress on Thursday to the Houses
in which they originated with my signature, though I did
not conceive that the Military establishment of the one was
adequate to the exigencies of the Government, & the pro-
tection it was intended to afford.
The Visitors to Mrs. Washington this evening were not
numerous.
132 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
MAY 1st.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington & the
children in the forenoon — & on foot in the afternoon.
Mr. Alexr. White, representative from Virginia, com-
municated his apprehensions that a disposition prevailed
among the Eastern & Northern States, (discoverable from
many circumstances, as well as from some late expressions
which had fallen from some of their members in the Ho.)
to pay little attention to the Western Country because they
were of opinion it would soon shake off its dependence on
this,72 and in the meantime would be burthensome to it.
He gave some information also of the temper of the
Western Settlers, of their dissatisfactions, and among other
things that few of the Magistrates had taken the oath to
the New Govei'nment, not inclining in the present state of
things and under their ideas of neglect to bind themselves
to it by an oath.
Sunday, 2d.
Went to Trinity Church in the forenoon — writing letters
on private business in the afternoon — among other letters
one by my order to Genl. Moylan,73 to know if he wd. ac-
"- The settlers west of the Alleghanies became very restless because
of the delay in the negotiations for the free navigation of the Missis-
sippi ; and in the summer of 1794, very serious movements, of a sedi-
tious character, were madu in Kentucky, which at one time threatened
a separation of a portion at least of the Western territory of the Union.
Menaces of this kind were heard from time to time, until the failure of
Burr's scheme in 1806.
73 Stephen Moylan, a colonel in the continental army during a portion
of the Revolution.
NEW YORK. 133
cept the Consulate at Lisbon, as it was not proposed to give
Salaries therewith.
Monday, 3d.
Exercised on Horseback about 9 o'clock.
After my return, the Secretary of the Treasury called
upon me, and informed me that by some conversation he
had had with Mr. King, (of the Senate) it appeared that
there was a probability the Senate would take up the Sales
by the Legislature of Georgia, and the affairs of the Indians
which would be involved therein in a serious manner ; and
gave it as his opinion that if this was likely to be the case,
it might be better for me to let the matter originate there,
than with the Executive.
The Secretary of State furnished me with his opinion on
these subjects — see his Statement — the substance of it is,
that the State of Georgia by having adopted the Constitu-
tion, relinquished their right to treat with, or to regulate
any matters with the Indians who were not subject thereto
— consequently could not delegate a power they did not
possess to others and that there was good & strong ground
on which to contend this matter — but inasmuch as there
was a party in the State opposed to the Sales before men-
tioned, but which might unite to defeat a Proclamation if
one should be issued upon the Plan of the Secretary at
War, he suggested the propriety of a representation to the
State in the first instance for the purpose of undoing in a
manner least hurtful to the feelings of it, the impolitic act
of the Legislature — <fc in the meantime — at the meeting
proposed to be held by the Indians in the Month of June
134 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
ensuing to make these people perfectly sensible of the Sen-
timents and intentions of the general Government towards
them.
Tuesday, 4th.
Exercised in the forenoon on Horseback.
A respectable Company at the Levee to-day.
Wednesday, 5th.
Requested General Rums Putnam — lately appointed a
Judge in the Western Government — and who was on the
eve of his departure for that Country74 to give me the best
discription he could obtain of the proximity of the Waters
of the Ohio and Lake Erie — the nature of their navigations
— Portages, — <fcc. — also of the occurrences in the Country
— the population of it — Temper of the people, &c. <fec.
Thursday, 6th.
Exercised on horseback in the forenoon. — The following,
out of several others who were invited, but prevented by
74 Putnam was an active officer in the engineer's department through-
out the whole war for Independence. He was commissioned a brigadier
in the continental army in 1783, when, on account of returning peace,
he left military life, and engaged in the formation of a company for
emigrating to and settling in the Ohio country. Thither lie went in
the spring of 1788, as the general agent, accompanied by about forty
settlers, and pitching their tents at the mouth of the Muskingum River,
planted the seed of a great commonwealth, and called the settlement
Marietta. Washington appointed him Judge of the Supreme Court of
the Northwest Territory in 1789.
NEW YORK. 135
sickness, dined here — viz. — Mr. Wingate, Mr. Maclay, Mr.
Walker (of the Senate) — and Messrs. Oilman, Aimes, Genl.
Muhlenburg, Wynkoop, Page and Lady, Smith So. Carolina
& Lady, and Mr. White & Lis Lady of the House of
Representatives.
Friday, 7th.
Exercised in the forenoon — Endeavoured through vari-
ous channels to ascertain what places required, and the
characters fittest for Consuls at them.
As the House of Representatives had reduced the Sum,
in a Bill to provide for the expenc-es of characters in the
diplomatic line, below what would enable the Executive to
employ the number which the exigencies of Government
might make necessary, I thought it proper to intimate to a
member or two of the Senate the places that were in con-
templation to send persons to in this line — viz to France
& England (when the latter manifested a disposition to
treat us with more respect than she had done upon a for-
mer occasion) Ministers Plenipotentiary — and to Spain,
Portugal & Holland Charge des Affaires, and having an
opportunity, mentioned the matter unofficially both to Mr.
Carroll & Mr. Izard.
Much Company — Gentlemen & Ladies — visited Mrs.
Washington this Evening.
Saturday, 8th.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington & the
Children in the forenoon.
Received from Genl. Knox, Secretary Genl. of the
136 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
triennial Genl. Meeting of the Cincinnati held at Philadel-
phia the first Monday of this Month, the Copy of an
Address from that body to me to which I was to return an
answer on next.
Sunday, 9th.
Indisposed with a bad cold, and at home all day writing
letters on private business.
A severe illness with which I was siezed the 10th of this
month and which left me in a convalescent state for several
weeks after the violence of it had passed ; & little inclina-
tion to do more than Avhat duty to the public required at
my hands occasioned the suspension of this Diary.75
JUNE, 1790.
Thursday, 24th.
Exercised on horseback betwn. 5 & 7 o'clock, P. M.
Entertained the following Gentlemen at Dinner — viz — •
75 Incessant application to business made severe inroads upon Wash-
ington's health ; and on the tenth of May, he was seized with a " severe
illness," as he remarks, which reduced him to the verge of dissolution.
He was confined to his chamber for several weeks. His chief difficulty
was inflammation of the lungs ; and he suffered from general debility
until the close of the session of Congress, in August. Then, accompa-
nied by Jefferson, he made a voyage to Newport, Rhode Island, for the
benefit of his health, and incidentally to have personal intercourse with
the leading inhabitants there, he having avoided Rhode Island, in his
recent Eastern tour, for reasons explained in note 27, on page 52. The
sea-voyage was beneficial to his health, and soon after his return, at the
close of August, he set out with his family, for Mount Vernon.
NKW YORK. 137
Messrs. Gerry, Goodhue, Grout, Leonard, Huntingdon,
Benson, Boudinot, Cadwalader, Sinnichson, Heister, Scott,
Contce, Stone, Brown, and Morse of the House of Repre-
sentatives.
Received from the Committee of Enrollment the Act for
extending the Judiciary Law to the State of Rhode Island
& Providence Planus.
Friday, 25th.
Constant & heavy Rain all day, prevented Company
from visiting Mrs. Washington this afternoon & all kinds
of Exercise.
Saturday, 26th.
Exercised in the Coach with Mrs. Washington & the
Children & by walking in the afternoon.
Sunday, 27th.
Went to Trinity Church in the forenoon — and employed
myself in writing business in the afternoon.
Monday, 28th.
Exercised between 5 <fc 7 o'clock in the morning &
drank Tea with Mrs. Clinton (the Governors Lady) in the
afternoon.
Tuesday, 29th.
Exercised between 5 & 7 o'clock in the morning on
horseback.
138 DIAJJY OF WASHINGTON.
A good deal of Company, amongst which several stran-
gers and some foreigners at the Levee to day.
On consultation with the Secretary of State to day, it
was thought advisable to direct him to provide two
Medals, one for the Marqs. de la Luzerne, formerly Minis-
ter Plenipo. from France to the IT. States of America, &
the other for Mr. Van Berkel late Minister from Holland ;
& to have the Dies with which they were to be struck in
France, sent over here. — The cost of these Medals would
be about 30 Guineas; but the Chain for that designed for
the Marqs. de la Luzerne (on acct. of his attachment &
Services to this Country) was directed to Cost about 200
Guineas — -the other about 100 Guins.
Wednesday, 30th.
Reed, from the Committee of Enrollment the following
Acts. — viz. — "An Act providing the means of intercourse
between the United States and foreign Nations." By
which the President of the United States is authorized to
draw from the Treasury 40,000 dollars annually, for the
support of such persons as he shall Commission to serve
the U. States in foreign pts. and for the expence incident
to the business in which they may be employed. — Not
more than 9000 Dollars to be allowed to a Minister Pleni-
potentiary, nor 4500 to a Charge des Affaires, except the
outfit to each, which shall not exceed one years salary ; —
nor shall more than 1300 dollars be allowed to the Secre-
tary of any Minister Plenipotentiary. — The President is to
acct. specifically for all such Expenditures as in his jndg-
.\;:\v YORK. 139
ment may be made public— and also for the amount of such
Expenditures, as he may think it advisable not to specify,
and cause a regular statement thereof to be laid before
Congress annual I v.
" An Act, for the Relief of Nathaniel Twining" and " An
Act to satisfy the Claims of John Mc. Cord against the
United States." These several Acts were presented to me
about 10 o'clock A. M.
Thursday.
JULY 1st.
Exercised between 5 and 1 o'clock on Horseback.
Announced to the House of Representatives (where the
Bills originated) that my signature had been given to the
Acts above mentioned.
Having put into the hands of the Vice President of the
U. States the Communications of Mr. Gouvr. Morris who
had been empowered to make informal enquiries how well
disposed the British Ministry might be to enter into
Commercial regulations with the United States, and to
fulfil the Articles of Peace respecting our Western Posts,
and the Slaves which had been carried from this Countrv,76
*« At the beginning of this year, a general European war appeared
inevitable. A long-pending controversy between Spain and Great
Britain remained unsettled. It was believed that France would
espouse the cause of Spain ; and it was thought a favorable moment for
the United States to press upon Great Britain the fulfilment, on her
part, of the treaty of 1783, concerning the matters to which Washing-
ton here alludes. There was then no diplomatic intercourse between
140 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
he expressed his approbation that this step had been taken ;
and added that the disinclination of the British Cabinet to
comply with the two latter, & to evade the former, as
evidently appears from the Correspondence of Mr. Morris
with the Duke of Leeds (the British Minister for Foreign
affairs) was of a piece with their conduct towds. him whilst
Minister at that Court ; & just what he expected ; — & that
to have it ascertained was necessary.
He thought, as a rupture betwn. England & Spain was
almost inevitable, that it would be our policy & interest to
take part with the latter as he was very apprehensive that
New Orleans was an object with the former ; their possess-
ing which would be very injurious to us ; — but he observed,
at the same time, that the situation of our affairs would
not justify the measure unless the People themselves (of
the United States) should take the lead in the business.
Received about three o'clock, official information from
Col0- Willet, that he was on the return from the Creek
Nation (whither he had been sent with design to bring
Col0, Mc. Gillivray, and some of the Chiefs of these people to
the City of New York for the purpose of treating,) that he
with the said Mc. Gillivray and many of the head men,
were advanced as far as Hopewell in So. Carolina on their
way hither — and that they should proceed by the way of
Richmond with as much expedition as the nature of the
case wd. admit.
the two governments ; and Gouverneur Morris, who had been some
time in Paris, was commissioned by Washington as a special agent to
open a communication upon the subject with the British minister for
foreign affairs.
NEW YORK. 141
It having been reported upon information being received
at St. Augustine of Col"' Mc. Gillivrays intention of coming
to this place that advice thereof was immediately forwarded
by the Commandant of the place to the Governor of the
Havanah — x\nd a Mr. Howard Secretary of East Florida
and an influential character there, and on pretext of bad
health, and a Spanish Armed Brig of 20 Guns, ostensibly
to bring 50,000 dollars for the purpose of buying Flour,
arriving here immediately thereupon, affording strong
ground to suspect that the money & the character above
mentioned, were sent here for the purpose of Counteracting
the Negotiations which was proposed to be held with Col0,
Mc. Gillivray & the other Chiefs of the Creeks — & this
suspicion being corroborated by Mr. Howard's visit to
Philadelphia, I directed the Secretary at War to advertise
Col0, Willet thereof — that he might, if a meeting should
take place at Philadelphia, or elsewhere on the Rd. observe
their conduct & penetrate if possible into the object of it.
He was desired at the same time to make suitable provi-
sion for lodging, A: otherwise entertaining Col"' Mc. Gilli-
vray A' his party.
The following Gentn. ct Ladies dined here to day — viz —
The Secretary of State, Secretary of the Treasury, and
Secretary at War & their Ladies — Mi'. Daltoti k Mr. King
& their Ladies, Mi'. Butler it his two daughters — Mr.
Hawkins, Mr. Stanton, & Mr. Foster, & Mr. Izard.— The
Chief Justice & his Lady, Genl. Schuyler & Mrs. Izard,
were also invited but were otherwise eno-awed.
142 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Friday, 2nd.
Exercised between 5 & V on horseback.
About one o'clock, official accounts of tne safety of
Major Doughty (who was sent on important business to the
Chickasaw and Choctaw Nations of Indians) were receiv-
ed ; together with the detail of his proceedings to the
Country of the former, and the misfortune that attended
him in ascending the River Tenessee to the intended place
of meeting the Chicasaws, by the Treachery of a Banditti
composed of Cherokees, Shawanese & Creek Indians who
to the number of 40 in 4 canoes ( Dough ty's party consist-
ing of no more than 15 Soldiers) under colour of a white
flag, & professions of friendship rose, fired upon, & killed
five & wounded six more of his men ; obliging him (when
within six miles of Ochappo the place of the Rendezvous,)
to Retreat down the Tennessee & which he was able to
effect by his gallant behaviour «fe good conduct ; notwith-
standing the superior force of the enemy & a pursuit of
4 hours and attemps to board the Barge in wch. he was. —
But being too weak to ascend the Ohio after he had
entered it, he was induced to follow the Currnt. into the
Missisippi & thence down the same to a Spanish post, A
de Grass about miles below the Mouth of the
Ohio where he was treated with great kindness & civility
by Monsr. the Commandant. — He contrived after
this to see the Piemingo & other head Men of the Chic-
asaw Nation with whom he did the business he was sent
on nearly as well as if he had got to Occhappo the place of
NEW YORK. 143
his destination as will appear by his details transmitted to
the Secretary at War.
Received from the Committee of Enrollment two Acts. —
One " For giving effect to an Act entitled " An Act provid-
ing for the enumeration of the Inhabitants of the United
States," " in respect to to the State of Rhode Island &
Providence Plantations," — The other, " An Act to author-
ize the purchase of a tract of Land for the use of the
United States.
Much company of both Sexes to visit Mrs. Washington
this evening.
Saturday, 3d.
Exercised between 9 and 11 in the Coach with Mrs.
Washington and the Children.
The policy of treating Col°- Mc. Gillivray, & the Chiefs
of the Creek Nation who were coming with him, with
attention as they passed through the States to this City
induced me to desire the Secretary at War to write to the
Governors of Virginia, Maryland «fe Pensylvania requesting
that they might be provided at the expence with whatever
might be deemed a proper respect that they might be kept
in good humour.
Nominated, Yesterday, to the Senate, persons for the
Judiciary of Rhode Island ; and a person as Naval Officer
in the District of Providence, in the place of Mr. Foster,
who was sent by the State as one of their Senators — also
Surveyors for the smaller Ports in the District & the
District of New-Port.
144 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
Sunday, 4th.
Went to Trinity Church in the forenoon.
This day being the Anniversary of The declaration of
Independency the celebration of it was put of until to
morrow.
Monday, 5th.
The members of the Senate, House of Representatives,
Public Officers, Foreign Characters &c. The Members of
the Cincinnati, Officers of the Militia, &c, came with the
compliments of the day to me about one o'clock a sen-
sible Oration was delivered in St. Pauls Chapel by Mr.
Brockholst Levingston,77 on the occasion of the day — the
tendency of which was, to show the different situation we
are now in, under an excellent government of our own
choice, to what it would have been if we had not succeeded
in our opposition to the attemps of Great Britain to en-
slave us ; and how much we ought to cherish the blessings
which are within our reach, & to cultivate the seeds of
harmony & unanimity in all our public Councils. — There
were several other points touched upon in sensible manner.
In the afternoon many Gentlemen & ladies visited Mrs.
"Washington.
"T Son of William Livingston, who had been governor of New Jer-
sey. Mr. Livingston was afterwards a leader of the Republican party,
in opposition to Jay's treaty with Great Britain, negotiated at the close
of 1794. Mr. Jay was his brother-in-law, and Mr. Livingston had ac-
companied that gentleman in his mission to Spain, as private secretary,
in 1779. In 1802, he was appointed Judge of the Supreme Court of
the United States, and died in 1823.
NEW YORK. 145
I was informed this day by General Irvine (who reed, the
acct. from Pittsburgh,) that the Traitor Arnold was at De-
troit & had viewed the Militia in the Neighbourhood of
it twice. — This had occasioned much Speculation in those
parts — and with many other circumstances — though trifling
in themselves led strongly to a conjecture that the British
had some design on the Spanish settlements on the Missis-
sipi and of course to surround these United States.
Tuesday, 6th.
Exercised on Horseback betwn. 5 & 7 o'clock in the
morning, — at 9 o'clock I sat for Mr. Trumbull to finish my
pictures in some of his historical pieces.
Anounced to the House of Representatives (where the
Bills originated) my Assent to the Acts which were pre-
sented to me on Friday last. — One of which Authorizes the
President to purchase the whole, or such part of that tract
of Land situate in the State of New York, commonly
called West-point as shall be by him judged requisite for
the purpose of such fortifications & Garrisons as may be
necessary for the defence of the same.
The visitors were few to day, on acct. of the numbers
that paid their compliments yesterday.
Wednesday, 7th.
Exercised between 5 & 7 this morning on Horseback.
Thursday, 8th.
Sat from 9 o'clock till after 10 for Mr. Jno. Trumbull,
146 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
who was drawing a Portrait of me at full length which he
intended to present to Mrs. Washington.
About noon the Secretaries of State, and of the Treas-
ury called upon me — the last of whom reported a commu-
nication made to him by Majr. Beckwith Aid de camp to
Lord Dorchester — Governor of Canada,18 wch. he reduced
to writing, and is as follows.
" Memorandum of the substance of a communication
"made on Thursday the eighth day of July 1*790 to
"the Subscriber by Major Beckwith as by direction of
" Lord Dorchester."
" Major Beckwith began by stating that Lord Dorcb.es-
" ter had directed him to make his acknowledgmts. for the
" politeness which had been shown in respect to the desire
" he had intimated to pass by N. York in his way to Eng-
" land ; adding that the prospect of a War between Great
" Britain & Spain would prevent or defer the execution of
" his intention in that particular."
" He next proceeded to observe that Lord Dorchester
" had been informed of a negotiation commenced on the
" other side of the Water through the agency of Mr. Mor-
" ris ; mentioning as the subscriber understood principally
" by way of proof of Lord Dorchester's knowledge of the
" transaction that Mr. Morris had not produced any regular
78 Lord Dorchester (Sir Guy Carleton) had asked leave to pass
through New York, on his way to England. Permission was readily
granted. Under a pretext of making a formal acknowledgment for the
consent, he dispatched Major Beckwith to New York, with the real
design of sounding the United States government concerning its dis-
position towards England and France.
NEW YORK. 14:7
" Credentials, but merely a letter from the President di-
" rected to himself, that some delays had intervened partly
" on account of Mr. Morris's absence on a trip to Holland
" as was understood and that it was not improbable these
" delays & some other circumstances may have impressed
" Mr. Morris with an idea of backwardness on the part of
" the British Ministry."
"That his Lordship however had directed him to say
" that an inference of this sort would not in his opinion be
" well founded as he had reason to believe that- the Cabinet
" of Great Britain entertained a disposition not only to-
" wards a friendly intercourse but towards an alliance with
" the United States.
" Major Beckwith then proceeded to speak of the partic-
" ular cause of the expected rupture between Spain & Brit-
" ain observing it was one in which all Commercial Nations
" must be supposed to favor the views of G. Britain. — Tbat
" it was therefore presumed, should a war take place, that
" the United States would find it to be their interest to
" take part with G. Britain rather than with Spain."
" Major Beckwith afterwards mentioned that Lord Dor-
" Chester had heard with great concern of some depreda-
" tions committed by some Indians on our Western frontier.
" That he wished it to be believed that nothing of this kind
" had received the least countenance from him. — That on
" the contrary he had taken every proper opportunity of in-
" culcating upon the Indians a pacific disposition towards
"us; and that as soon as he had heard of the outrages
" lately committed he had sent a message to endeavor to
" prevent them. — That his Lordship had understd. that the
148 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
" Indians alluded to were a banditti composed chiefly or in
" great part of Creeks or Cherokees, over whom he had no
" influence ; intimating at the same time that these tribes
" were supposed to be in connection with the Spaniards."
" He stated in the next place that his Lordship had been
" informed that a Captain Hart in our Service and a Mr.
"Wemble, and indeed, some persons in the Treaty at Fort
" Harmer had thrown out menaces with regard to the posts
" on the Frontier & had otherwise held very intemperate
" language ; which however his Lordship considered rather
" as effusions of individual feelings than as effects of any
"instruction from authority."
" Major Beckwith concluded with producing a letter
" signed Dorchester ; which letter contained ideas simalar
" to those he had expressed, though in more guarded terms
" and without any allusions to instructions from the British
" Cabinet. — This letter it is recollected hints at the non-
" execution of the treaty of peace on our part."
" On the subscriber remarking the circumstance that this
" letter seemed to speak only the Sentiments of his Lord-
" ship, Major Beckwith replied that whatever reasons there
" might be for that course of proceeding in the present Stage
" of the business, it was to be presumed that his Lordship
" knew too well the consequence of such a step to have
" taken it without a previous knowledge of the intentions
" of the Cabinet,"
The aspect of this business in the moment of its com-
munication to me, appeared simply, and no other than this ;
— We did not incline to give any satisfactory answer to
Mr. Morris, who was official/,)/ commissioned to ascertain our
NEW YORK. 149
intentions with respect to the evacuation of the Western
Posts within the territory of the United States and other
matters into which he was empowered to enquire until by
this unauthenticated mode we can discover whether you
will enter into an alliance with us and make Common
cause against Spain. — In that case we will enter into a
Commercial Treaty with you & promise perhaps to fulfil
what they already stand engaged to perform — However, I
requested Mr. Jefferson & Col0- Hamilton, as I intend to do
the Vice President, Chief Justice & Secretary at War, to
revolve this matter in all its relations in their minds that
they may be the better prepared to give me their opinions
thereon in the course of 2 or three days.
The following Gentlemen dined here to day — viz — ■
Messrs. Wingate, Strong, Mc. Clay, Lee, & Johnson (No.
Carolina) of the Senate — and Messrs. Gilman, Aimes,
Sturges, Schureman, Fitzsimmons, Wynkoop, Vining, Smith,
Madison, Sevier, & Sumpter, of the House of Representa-
tives.
Friday, 9th.
Exercised on Horseback between 5 & 1 in the morn-
ing.
A letter from Genl. Harmeiy9 enclosing copies of former
letters; and Sundry other papers, were put into my hands
by the Secretary at War. — By these it appears that the
frequent hostilities of some vagabond Indians, who it was
supposed had a mind to establish themselves on the Sciota
79 General Harmar was in command of United States troops in the
Northwest Territory.
150 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
for the purpose of robbing the Boats, and murdering the
Passengers in their descent or assent of the Ohio, had in-
duced an Expedition composed of 120 effective men of the
Regular Troops under his (Harmer's) command, and 202
Militia, (mounted on Horses) under that of Genl. Scott of
the District of Kentucky. — This force rendezvoused at the
mouth of Lime-stone on the 20 of April ; and intended by
a detour to fall on the Scioto high up ; — five miles above
the mouth of Paint Creek (which runs through the finest
land in the world, & surveyed for the Officers of the Vir-
ginia line) it accordingly struck the Scioto on the 25th 50
miles from its mouth. But the Militia, according to cus-
tom, getting tired, & short of Provisions, became clamor-
ous to get home ; & many of them would have gone off
but for the influence of Genl. Scott ; however, the March
was continued and on the 27th the Troops arrived at the
mouth of the Scioto where crossing the Ohio the Militia
seperated for their respective homes & the Regular Troops
proceeded up to their head Quarters at Fort Washington80
— In this expedition little was done ; — a small party of 4
Indians was discovered — killed & scalped — and at another
place some Bever traps & skins were taken at an Indian
Camp — the detour made was about 128 miles & had the
Militia crossed to the East side of the Scioto it is supposed
several parties of Indians would have been fallen in with, —
the Scioto is 65 miles below the mouth of Licking.
Among the Enclosures with Genl. Harmer's letter, were
Captn. Hart's Report of the Navigations of Big-beaver and
80 On the site of Cincinnati.
NEW YORK. 151
the Cayahoga, and Country between ; and of other waters :
— also Majr. Hamtramck's report of the distances &c. from
Post Vincennes on the Wabash to Detroit — copies of which
I desired to be furnished with.
Many visitors (male & female) this afternoon to Mrs.
Washington.
Saturday, 10th.
Having formed a Party, consisting of the Vice President,
his lady, Son & Miss Smith ; the Secretaries of State, Treas-
ury, & War, and the ladies of the two latter ; with all the
Gentlemen of my family, Mrs. Lear81 & the two Children,
we visited the old position of Fort Washington and after-
wards dined on a dinner provided by Mr. Mariner82 at the
House lately Col0- Roger Morris, but confiscated and in the
occupation of a common Farmer.83
81 Wife of Tobias Lear, Washington's private secretary. She was a
young and beautiful lady. Judge Iredell, of North Carolina, in a letter
to his wife, written at Philadelphia, in July, 1793, said: " We have
lately had a very affecting death in this city. Mrs. Lear, the wife of
Mr. Lear, Hie President's secretary, died on Sunday last alter a short
but very severe illness. She was only 23, and beloved and respected
by all who knew her ; and she and her husband had been fond of each
other from infancy. He attended the funeral himself, and so did the
President and Mrs. Washington. Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Jefferson, Gen-
eral Knox, Judge Wilson, Judge Peters and myself were pall-bearers."
82 See note 10, on page 18.
83 The mansion is yet standing upon the high bank of the Harlem
river, at 169th Street, a little below the High Bridge of the Croton
aqueduct. It is the property of Madame Jumel, widow of Aaron Burr.
Its situation is one of the most picturesque on the island, commanding
a tine view of the surrounding country, with the great city and clus-
tering villages. It is about a mile from the site of old Fort Washing-
152 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
I requested the Vice President & the Secretary at War
as I had also in the Morning the Chief Justice, to turn their
attention to the communications of Majr. Beckwith : as I
might, in course of a few days, call for their opinions on the
important matter of it.
Sunday, 11th.
At home all day — dispatching some business relative to
my own private concerns.
Monday, 12th.
Exercised on Horseback between 5 & 6 in the morning.
Sat for Mr. Trumbull from 9 until half after ten. — And
about Noon had two Bills presented to me by the joint
Committee of Congress — The one " An Act for Establishing
the Temporary & permanent Seat of the Government of the
United States." The other "An Act further to provide for
the payment of the Invalid Pensioners of the United
States."
Tuesday, 13th.
Again sat for Mr. Trumbull from 9 until half past 10
o'clock.
A good deal of Company at the Levee to day.
ton. Colonel Roger Morris was Washington's companion in arms at
the defeat of Braddoek, and his successful rival in claims for the
hand of Mary Phillipse, in 1756. Morris was a Loyalist, and fled, with
his family, to the Hudson Highlands, when the Revolution broke out.
Washington occupied this house as his quarters a short time in 1776,
when the American army lay on Harlem Heights.
NEW YORK. 153
Wednesday, 14th.
Exercised on Horseback from 5 until near 7 o'clock.
Had some further conversation to day with the Chief
Justice and Secretary of the Treasury with respect to the
business on which Majr. Beckwith was come on. — The re-
sult— To treat his communications very civilly — to inti-
mate, delicately, that they carried no marks official or
authentic, nor in speaking of Alliance, did they convey any
definite meaning by which the precise object of the British
Cabinet could be discovered. — In a word, that the Secre-
tary of the Treasury was to extract as much as he could
from Major Beckwith and to report to me, without com-
mitting, by any assurances whatever, the Government of
the U. States, leaving it entirely free to pursue, unre-
proached, such a line of conduct in the dispute as her in-
terest (& honour) shall dictate.
154 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
MARCH— 2 1st— 1791.
Monday.
Left Philadelphia about 11 o'clock to make a tour
through the Southern States.8' — Reached Chester about 3
o'clock — dined & lodged at Mr. Wythes — Roads exceed-
ingly deep, heavy & cut in places by the Carriages which
used them.
In this tour I was accompanied by Majr. Jackson, — my
equipage & attendance consisted of a Charriot & four
horses drove in hand — a light baggage Waggon & two
horses — four saddle horses besides a led one for myself —
and five — to wit — my Valet de Chambre, two footmen,
Coachman & postilion.
Tuesday, 2 2d.
At half past 6 o'clock we left Chester, & breakfasted at
Wilmington. — Finding the Roads very heavy — and receiv-
ing unfavourable Accts. of those between this place and Bal-
timore, I determined to cross the Bay by the way of Rock-
hall — and crossing Christiana Creek proceeded through
Newcastle & by the Red Lyon to the Back tavern 13 miles
a* He and his family left his residence in Market-street. Philadel-
phia, in his English coach, at twelve o'clock this day. They were ac-
companied as far as Delaware by Mr. Jefferson and General Knox, two
of the heads of departments. Also by Major Jackson, his aid, who
accompanied him in his entire journey through the Southern States.
SOUTHERN TOUB. 155
from Newcastle and 19 from Wilmington where we dined
and lodged. — At the Red Lyon we gave the horses a bite
of Hay — during their eating of which I discovered that one
of those wch. drew the Baggage waggon was lame and
apprd, otherwise much indisposed — had him bled and after-
wards led to the Buck-tavern.
This is a better house than the appearances indicate.
Wednesday, 23d.
Set off at 6 o'clock — breakfasted at Warwick — bated
with hay 9 miles farther — and dined and lodged at the
House of one Worrell's in Chester ; from whence — I sent
an Express to Rock Hall85 to have Boats ready for me by
9 o'clock to morrow morning — after doing which Captn.
Nicholson obligingly set out for that place to see that
every thing should prepared against my arrival.
The lame horse was brought on, and while on the Road
apprd. to move tolerably well, but as soon as he stopped,
discovered a stiffness in all his limbs, which indicated some
painful disorder — I fear a Chest founder. — My riding horse
also appeared to be very unwell, his appetite had entirely
failed him.
The Winter grain along the Road appeared promising
and abundant.
Thursday, 24th.
Left Chestertown about G o'clock — before nine I arrived
*5 In Kent county, Maryland, nearly seventy miles Northeast from
Annapolis.
156 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
at Rock-Hall where we breakfasted and immediately ; after
which we began to embark — The doing of which employed
us (for want of contrivance) until near 3 o'clock, — and
then one of my Servants (Paris) & two horses were left,
notwithstanding two Boats in aid of the two Ferry Boats
were procured. — Unluckily, embarking on board of a bor-
rowed Boat because she was the largest, I was in imminent
danger, from the unskillfulness of the hands, and the d ill-
ness of her sailing, added to the darkness and storminess of
the night — for two hours after we hoisted sail the wind
was light and ahead — the next hour was a start calm —
after which the wind sprung up at So. Et. and increased
until it blew a gale — about which time, and after 8 o'clock
P. M. we made the Mouth of Severn River (leading up to
Annapolis) but the ignorance of the People on board, with
respect to the navigation of it run us a ground first on
Greenbury point from whence with much exertion and dif-
ficulty we got off; & then, having no knowledge of the
Channel and the night being immensely dark with heavy
and variable squals of wind — constant lightning <fc tremen-
dous thunder — we soon got aground again on what is
called Home's point — where finding all efforts in vain, &
not knowing where we were we remained, not knowing
what might happen, till morning.
Friday, 25th.
Having lain all night in my Great Coat & Boots, in a
birth not long enough for me by the head, & much cramp-
ed ; we found ourselves in the morning within about one mile
of Annapolis, & still fast aground. — Whilst we were pre-
SOUTHERN TOUR. 157
paring our small Boat in order to land in it, a sailing Boat
came of to our assistance in wch. with the Baggage 1 had
on board I landed, & requested Mr. Man at whose I mi I
intended lodging, to send off a Boat to take off two of my
Horses & Chariot which I had left on board and with it
my Coachman to see that it was properly done— but by
mistake the latter not having notice of this order &
attempting to get on board afterwards in a small sailino-
Boat was overset and narrowly escaped drowning.
Was informed upon my arrival (when 15 Guns were
fired) that all my other horses arrived safe that embarked
at the same time I did, about 8 o'clock last night.
Was waited upon by the Governor (who came off in a
Boat as soon as he heard I was on my passage from Rock-
Hall to meet us, but turned back when it grew dark and
squally) as soon as I arrived at Man's tavern & was
engaged by him to dine with the Citizens of Annapolis
this day at Mann's tavern, and at his House to morrow —
the first I accordingly did.
Before dinner I walked with him, and several other
Gentlemen to the State house/6 (which seems to be much
out of repair) — the College of St. John at which there are
about 80 Students of every description, and then by way
of the Governor's (to see Mrs. Howell) home.
86 This venerable building is yet standing. There the Continental
Congress assembled in December, 1783, to receive from Washington
his commission as Commander-in-chief, which he resigned into their
hands.
158 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Saturday, 26th.
Spent the forenoon in my Room preparing papers &c.
against my arrival at George-Town.
Dined at the Governors — and went to the Assembly in
the Evening where I stayed till half past ten o'clock.
In the afternoon of this day Paris and my other two
horses arrived from Rock-Hall.
Sunday, 27th.
About 9 o'clock this morning I left Annapolis, under a
discharge of Artillery, and being accompanied by the
Governor a Mr. Kilty of the Council and Mr. Charles
Stuart proceeded on my Journey for George-Town. Bated
at Queen Ann,8r 13 miles distant and dined and lodged
at Bladensburgh.88 — Many of the Gentlemen of Annapolis,
(among was the Chancellor of the State) escorted me to
the ferry over So. River.
Monday, 28th.
Left Bladensburgh at half after six, & breakfasted at
George Town about 8 ;89 where, having appointed the
87 Queen Anne, on the Patuxent, on the road from Annapolis to
Washington City, was then quite a flourishing village. It is now in
decay.
88 Four miles from Washington City. This place is famous on
account of a battle fought there between the American and British in
1814; also as the place where Commodore Decatur was mortally
wounded in a duel with Commodore Barron.
89 The site of Washington City was then a half-uncultivated wilder-
SOUTHERN TOUR. 159
Commissioners under the Residence Law to meet me, I
found Mr. Johnson one of them90 (& who is Chief Justice of
the State) in waiting — & soon after came in David Stuart,"
& Danl. Carroll9'2 Esqrs. the other two. — A few miles out of
Town I was met by the principal Citizens of the place and
escorted in by them ; and dined at Suter's tavern (where I
also lodged) at a public dinner given by the Mayor tfc
Corporation — previous to which I examined the Surveys of
Mr. Ellicot93 who had been sent on to lay out the district of
ten miles square for the federal seat ; and also the works of
Majr. L'Enfant who had been engaged to examine & make
a draught of the grds. in the vicinity of George Town and
Carrollsburg on the Eastern branch making arrangements
for examining the ground myself to morrow with the
Commissioners.
ness, the commissioners appointed for the purpose not having complet-
ed their surveys. Pennsylvania Avenue is upon a line of a path which
then passed through an alder swamp, from the high ground on which
the President's house stands, to the Capitoline Hill.
90 Thomas Johnson, who was the first republican governor of Mary-
land, from 1777 to 1779.
91 Dr. David Stuart married the widow of John Parke Custis, the
son of Mrs. Washington. These commissioners were appointed under
the " Residence Law,'' so called because it was enacted for the purpose
of fixing the permanent residence of the government.
92 Daniel Carroll, brother apparently of the Most Rev. John Carroll,
archbishop of Baltimore, was a representative in Congress from 1789
to 1791.
93 Andrew EUicott succeeded Major L'Enfant, in 1792, as engineer-
in-chief in laying out the Federal < ity. L'Enfant had served as an
engineer in the Continental army during a part of the Revolution.
160 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Tuesday, 29th.
In a thick mist, and under strong appearances of a
settled rain (which however did not happen) I set out
about 7 o'clock, for the purpose above mentioned — but
from the unfavorableness of the day, I derived no great
satisfaction from the review.
Finding the interests of the Landholders about George
town and those about Carrollsburgh much at varience and
that their fears and jealousies of each were counteracting
the public purposes & might prove injurious to its best
interests whilst if properly managed they might be made to
subserve it — I requested them to meet me at six o'clock
this afternoon at my lodgings, which they accordingly did.
To this meeting I represented that the contention in
which they seemed engaged, did not in my opinion com-
port either with the public interest or that of their own ; —
that while each party was aiming to obtain the public
buildings, they might by placing the matter on a contract-
ed scale, defeat the measure altogether ; not only by pro-
crastination but for want of the means necessary to effect
the work ; — That niether the offer from George-town or
Carrollsburgh, seperately, was adequate to the end of
insuring the object. — That both together did not compre-
hend more ground nor would afford greater means than
was required for the federal City; — and that, instead of
contending which of the two should have it they had
better, by combining more offers make a common cause of
it, and thereby secure it to the district other arguments
were used to show the danger which might result from
SOUTHERN TOUR. 161
delay and the good effects that might proceed from a
Union.
Dined at Col"- Forrest's to day with the Commissioners
& others.
Wednesday, 30th.
The parties to whom I addressed myself yesterday
evening, having taken the matter into consideration saw
the propriety of my observations; and that whilst they
were contending for the shadow they might loose the
substance ; and therefore mutually agreed and entered into
articles to surrender for public purposes, one half of the
land they severally possessed within bounds which were
designated as necessary for the City to stand with some
other stipulations, which were inserted in the instrument
which they respectively subscribed.
This business being thus happily finished & some direc-
tions given to the Commissioners, the Surveyor and Engi-
neer with respect to the mode of laying out the district —
Surveying the grounds for the City & forming them into
lots — I left Georgetown — dined in Alexandria <fe reached
Mount Vernon in the evening.
Thursday, 31st.
From this time, until the 7th of April, I remained at
Mount Vernon — visiting my Plantations every day. — and
Was obliged also, consequence of Col0- Henry Lee's
declining to accept the command of one of the Regiments
of Levies and the request of the Secretary at War to
appoint those officers which had been left to Col'1' Lee to
1G2 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
do for a Battalion to be raised in Virginia East of the
Alligany Mountains to delay my journey on this account —
and after all, to commit the business as will appear by the
letters & for the reasons there mentioned to Col"- Darke's
management.91
From hence I also wrote letters to the Secretaries of
State, — Treasury, — and War, in answer to those received
from on interesting subjects — desiring in case of important
occurances they would hold a consultation and if they were
of such a nature as to make my return necessary to give
me notice & I would return immediately — My Rout was
given to them & the time I should be at the particular
places therein mentioned.95
Thursday, 7. — April.
Recommenced my journey with Horses apparently much
refreshed and in good spirits.
In attempting to cross the ferry at Colchester with the
four Horses hitched to the Chariot by the neglect of the
person who stood before them, one of the leaders got over-
board when the boat was in swimming water and 50 yards
from the shore — with much difficulty he escaped drowning
94 Col. Darke was an active officer in the Ohio country, in the Indian
Wars in that region from 1792 to 1794 ; and Darke County was named
in his honor. He was with the Virginians at Braddock's defeat ; was
in the war for Independence ; was a member of the Virginia Conven-
tion in 1788 ; was with St. Clair in his unfortunate campaign in 1791 ;
and died in 1801.
93 See Washington's letter to the Heads of Departments, April 4,
1791. in Sparks' Life, &c, &c. 157.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 163
before he could be disengaged — His struggling frightened
the others in such a manner that one after another and in
quick succession they all got overboard harnessed & fasten-
ed as they were and with the utmost difficulty they were
saved & the Carriage escaped been dragged after them, as
the whole of it happened in swimming water & at a
distance from the shore — Providentially — indeed miracu-
lously— by the exertions of people who went off in Boats &
jumped into the River as soon as the Batteau was forced
into wading water — no damage was sustained by the
horses, Carriage or harness.
Proceeded to Dumfries where I dined — after which I
visited & drank Tea with my Niece Mrs. Thos. Lee.
Friday, 8th.
Set out about 6 o'clock — breakfasted at Stafford Court
House — and dined and lodged at my Sister Lewis's in
Fredericksburgh.96
Saturday, 9th.
Dined at an entertained given by the Citizens of the
town. — Received and answered an address from the Cor-
poration.
Was informed by Mr. Jno. Lewis, who had, not long
since been in Richmond, that Mr. Patrick Henry had
•• His sister Elizabeth, married Colonel Fielding Lewis. His son.
Lawrence Lewis, was Washington's favorite nephew. He married
Nelly Custis, Mrs. Washington's grand-daughter, and resided with her
at Mount Vernon at the time of Washington's death.
164 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
avowed his interest in the Yazoo Company;97 and made
him a tender of admission into it, whch. he declined —
hut asking, if the Company did not expect the Settle-
ment of the lands would be disagreeable to the Indians was
answered by Mr. Henry that the Co. intended to apply to
Congress for protection — which, if not granted they would
have recourse to their own means to protect the settlement
— That General Scott had a certain quantity of Land (I
think 40.000 acres in the Company's grant & was to have
the command of the force which was to make the establish-
ment— and moreover — that General Muhlenburg had offer-
ed £1000 for a certain part of the grant — the quantity I do
not recollect if it was mentioned to me.
Sunday, 10th.
Left Fredericksburgh about 6 o'clock, — myself Majr. Jack-
son and one Servant breakfasted at General Spotswoods98
87 The first legislature of Georgia, after the adoption of the Federal
Constitution, undertook to sell out, to three private companies, the
pre-emption right to vast tracts of land west of the Chattahoochee
river, unmindful of any rightful claim of the Indians. They were
called Yazoo Land Companies. They sold to the South Carolina Yazoo
Company 5,000,000 acres for $66,904 ; to the Virginia Yazoo Company
7,000,000 acres, for $93,742; and to the Tennessee Yazoo Company,
3,500,000 acres for $46,875. These companies not complying with the
requirements of the sale, a succeeding legislature declared the bargain
a nullity. Smiie of the purchasers contested the claims, and litigations
arose, which became still more complicated when the same lands were
sold to other companies.
■'- Alexander Spottswood, an officer in the continental army. He and
Washington were intimate friends, and frequently corresponded on
agricultural subjects.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 165
— the rest of my Servants continued on to Todd's Ordi-
nary where they also breakfasted. — Dined at the Bowling
Green — and lodged at Kenner's Tavern 14 miles farther-
in all 35 m.
Monday, 11th.
Took an early breakfast at Kinner's — bated at one Raw-
lings's half way between that & Richmd. and dined at the
latter about 3 o'clock. — On my arrival was saluted by the
Cannon of the place — waited on by the Governor9' and
other Gentlemen — and saw the City illuminated at night.
Tuesday, 12th.
In company with the Governor, — The Directors of the
James River Navigation Company100 — the Manager & many
other Gentlemen — I viewed the Canal, Sluces, Locks, &
other works between the City of Richmond & Westham. —
These together have brought the navigation to within a
mile and half, or mile and ^ of the proposed Bason ; from
which the Boats by means of Locks are to communicate
with the tide water navigation below. — The Canal is of suf-
ficient depth every where— but in places not brought to its
proper width ; it seems to be perfectly secure against Ice,
99 Henry Lee. He was the son of Washington's first love — the
" Lowland Beauty" of whom he was enamored when only sixteen years
of age. Lee was the celebrated leader of the Legion in the Southern
campaigns.
i°o Washington was president of this company. It had been formed
several years before, for the purpose of promoting the internal com-
merce of the -
166 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
Freshes & drift wood — The locks at the head of these
works are simple — altogether of hewn stone, except the
gates & cills — and very easy & convenient to work, —
there are two of them, each calculated to raise and lower 6
feet — they cost according to the Manager's, Mr. Harris acct.
about £3000 but I could see nothing in them to require
such a sum to erect them. — The Sluces in the River, be-
tween the locks and the mouth of the Canal are well
graduated and easy of assent — To complete the Canal from
the point to which it is now opened, and the Locks at the
foot of them, Mr. Harris thinks will require 3 years.
Received an Address from the Mayor, Aldermen & Com
mon Council of the City of Richmond at three o'clock, &
dined with the Governor at 4 o'clock.
In the course of my enquiries — chiefly from Col0- Car-
rington'01 — I cannot discover that any discontents prevail
among the people at large, at the proceedings of Congress.
— The conduct of the Assembly respecting the assump-
tion102 he thinks is condemned by them as intemperate &
unwise — and he seems to have no doubt but that the Excise
101 Colonel Edward Carrington, who was a meritorious officer in the
campaigns in the South during the Revolution. He was now active as
a United States marshal for a large district in Virginia.
102 A part of Hamilton's financial scheme for the United States, was
the assumption of the respective State debts by the general govern-
ment. This gave rise to violent opposition, and was the chief cause of
Jefferson's bitter hostility to Hamilton. Out of the party feelings en-
gendered by the assumption scheme, grew the Republican party, that
during the latter years of Washington's administration, gave him much
trouble because of the unkind spirit of opposition to the measures oi
the government.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 1G7
law — as it is called — may be executed without difficulty —
nay more, that it will become popular in a little time — Ilis
duty as Marshall having carried him through all parts of
the State lately, and of course given him the best means of
ascertaining the temper & disposition of its Inhabitants —
he thinks them favorable towards the General Government
— tfc that they only require to have matters explained to
them in order to obtain their full assent to the measures
adopted by it.
Wednesday, 13th.
Fixed with Col°" Carrington (the supervisor of the dis-
trict) the surveys of Inspection for the District of this State
& named the characters for them — an acct. of which was
transmitted to the Secretary of the Treasury.
Dined at a public entertainment given by the Corpora-
tion of Richmond.
The buildings in this place have encreased a good deal
since I was here last, but they are not of the best kind, —
the number of Souls in the City are .
Thursday, 14th.
Left Richmond after an early breakfast — <fc passing
through Manchester received a Salute from cannon & an
Escort of Horse under the command of Captn. David
Meade Randolph as far as Osbornes103 when I was met by
103 A point between Richmond and Petersburgh, where troops under
the traitor Arnold, and the republicans, had a severe skirmish in April,
1781. A prisoner captured by Arnold at that time, was asked by him,
168 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
the Petersburgh horse & escorted to that place & par-
took of a Public dinner given by the Mayor & Corporation
and went to an Assembly in the evening for the occasion
at which there were between 60 & 70 ladies.
Petersburgh which is said to contain near 3000 Souls is
well situated for trade at present, but when the James Riv-
er navigation is completed and the cut from Elizabeth River
to Pasquotauck effected it must decline & that very con-
siderably.— At -present it receives at the Inspections nearly
a third of the Tobacco exported from the whole State be-
sides a considerable quantity of Wheat and flour — much of
the former being Manufactured at the Mills near the Town
— Chief of the buildings, in this town are under the hill &
unpleasantly situated, but the heights around it are agree-
able.
The Road from Richmond to this place passes through a
poor country principally covered with Pine except the in-
terval lands on the River which we left on our left.
Friday, 15th.
Having suffered very much by the dust yesterday — and
finding that parties of Horse, & a number of other Gen-
tlemen were intending to attend me part of the way to day,
I caused their enquiries respecting the time of my setting
out, to be answered that, I should endeavor to do it before
"If the Americans should catch me, what would they do with me?"
The soldier promptly replied, " They would bury with military honors
the leg which was wounded at Quebec and Saratoga, and hang the re-
mainder of you upon a gibbet."
SOUTHERN TOUR.
169
eight o'clock; but I did it a little after five, by which
means I avoided the inconveniences above mentioned.
I came twelve miles to breakfast, at one Jesse Lee's, a
tavern newly set up upon a small scale, and 15 miles far-
ther to dinner ; and where I lodged, at the House of one
Oliver, which is a good one for horses, and where there
are tolerable clean beds.— For want of proper stages I
could go no farther.— The Road along wheh. I travelled to
day is through a level piney Country, until I came to Not-
taway, 84 on which there seems to be some good land, the
rest is very poor <fe seems scarce of ^ ater.
Finding that the two horses wch. drew my baggage wag-
gon were rather too light for the draught; and, (one of
them especially) losing his flesh fast, I engaged two horses
to be at this place this evening to carry it to the next stage
20 miles off in the morning, and sent them on led to be
there ready for me.
Saturday, 16th.
Got into my Carriage a little after 5 o'clock, and trav-
elled thro' a cloud of dust until I came within two or three
miles of Hix's ford when it began to Rain.— Breakfasted at
one Andrews' a small but decent House about a mile after
passing the ford (or rather the bridge) over Meherrin
River.— Although raining moderately, but with appear-
ances of breaking up, I continued my journey— induced to
it by the crouds which were coming into a general Muster
at t*he Court House of Greensville, who would I presumed
>04 The Nottaway river. This with the Meherrin, tonus the Chowan
River, that empties into Albemarle Sound.
170 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
soon have made the Ho. I was in too noizy to be agreeable.
— I had not however rode two miles before it began to be
stormy, & to rain violently which, with some intervals, it
contind. to do the whole afternoon.— The uncomfortable-
ncss of it, for Men & Horses, would have induced me to put
up ; but the only Inn short of Hallifax having no stables in
wch. the horses could be comfortable, & no Rooms or beds
which appeared tolerable, & every thing else having a dirty
appearance, I was compelled to keep on to Hallifax ; 27
miles from Andrews — 48 from Olivers — and 75 from Pe-
tersburgh — At this place (i. e. Hallifax) I arrived about six
o'clock, after crossing the Roanoke ; on the South bank of
which it stands.
This River is crossed in flat Boats which take in a Car-
riage & four horses at once. — At this time, being low, the
water was not rapid but at times it must be much so, as it
frequently overflows its banks which appear to be at least
25 ft. perpendicular height.
The lands upon the River appear rich, & the low grounds
of considerable width — but those which lay between the
different Rivers — namely Appamattox, Nottaway, Meherrin
and Roanoke are all alike flat, poor & covered principal)*
with pine timber.
It has already been observed that before the Rain fell, I
was travelling in a continued cloud of dust — but after it
had rained some time, the Scene was reversed, and my pas-
sage was through water; so level are the Roads.
From Petersburg to Hallifax (in sight of the Road) are
but few good Houses, with small appearances of wealth. —
The lands are cultivated in Tobacco — Corn, — Wheat &
SOI THERN TOUK. 171
Oats, but Tobacco & the raising of Porke for market,
seems to be the principal dependence of the Inhabitants;
especially towards the Roanoke. — Cotton & Flax are also
raised but not extensively.
Hallifax is the first town I came to after passing the line
between the two States, and is about 20 miles from it. —
To this place vessels by the aid of Oars & Setting poles are
brought for the produce which comes to this place, and
others along the River ; and may be carried 8 or 10 miles
higher to the falls which are neither great nor of much ex-
tent;— above these (which are called the great falls) there
are others; but none but what may with a little improve-
ment be passed. This town stands upon high ground ;
and it is the reason given fir not placing it at the head of
the navigation there being none but low ground between it
and the falls — It seems to be in a decline & does not it is
said contain a thousand Souls.
Sunday, 17th.
Col0- Ashe105 the Representative of the district in which
this town stands, and several other Gentlemen called upon,
and invited me to partake of a dinner which the Inhab-
itants were desirous of seeing me at & excepting it dined
with them accordingly.
105 John B. Ashe, a soldier of the Kevolution under Gen. Greene, a
member of the Continental Congress in 1787, a representative of the
Federal Congress from 1790 to 1793, and afterwards elected governor of
the State. He died before entering upon the duties of the office.
172 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
Monday, 18th.
Set out by six o'clock — dined at a small house kept by
one Slaughter, 22 Miles from Hallifax and lodged at Tar
borough 14 Miles further.
This place is less than Hallifax, but more lively and
thriving; — it is situated on Tar River which goes into
Pamplico Sound and is crossed at the Town by means of a
bridge a great height from the water, and notwithstanding
the freshes rise sometimes nearly to the arch. — Corn,
Porke, and some Tar are the exports from it. — We were
reed, at this place by as good a salute as could be given by
one piece of artillery.
Tuesday, 19th.
At 6 o'clock I left Tarborough accompanied by some of
the most respectable people of the place for a few miles —
dined at a trifling place called Greenville 25 miles distant —
and lodged at one Allans 14 miles further a very indif-
ferent house without stabling which for the first time
since I commenced my Journey were obliged to stand with-
out a cover.
Greenville is on Tar River and the exports the same as
from Tarborough with a greater proportion of Tar — for the
lower down the greater number of Tar makers are there —
This article is contrary to all ideas one would entertain on
the subject, rolled as Tobacco by an axis which goes
through both heads — one horse draws two barrels in this
manner.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 173
Wednesday, 20th.
Left Allans before breakfast, & under a misapprehension
went to a Col0- Allans, supposing it to be public Louse ;
where we were very kindly & well entertained without
knowing it was at his expenee, until it was too late to rec-
tify the mistake. — After breakfasting, & feeding our horses
here, we proceeded on & crossing the River Neuse 11 miles
further, arrived in Newbern to dinner.
At this ferry which is 10 miles from Newbern, we were
met by a small party of Horse ; the district Judge (Mr.
Sitgreave)106 and many of the principal Inhabitants of New-
bern, who conducted us into town to exceeding good lodg-
ings— It ought to have been mentioned that another small
party of horse under one Simpson met us at Greensville,
and in spite of every endeavor which could comport with
decent civility, to excuse myself from it, they would attend
me to Newbern. — Col0, Allan did the same.
This town is situated at the confluence of the Rivers
Neuse & Trent, and though low is pleasant. Vessels draw-
ing more than 9 feet water cannot get up loaded. — It
stands on a good deal of ground, but the buildings are
sparce and altogether of Wood ; — some of which are laro-e
& look well — The number of Souls are about 2000. — Its
exports consist of Corn, Tobacco, Pork, — but principally
of Naval Stores <fc lumber.
'°6 John Sitgreaves was a resident of Newbern, and had been an officer
in the war for Independence, lie was a member of the Continental
ress in 1784, of his State Legislature in 1787, and was made United
District Judge.
174 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Thursday, 21st.
Dined with the Citizens at a public dinner given by
them ; and went to a dancing assembly in the evening-
both of which was at what they call the Pallace — formerly
the Government House & a good brick building but now
hastening to Ruins.107 — The Company at both was numer-
ous at the latter there were abt. 70 ladies.
This town by Water is about 70 miles from the Sea —
but in a direct line to the entrance of the River not over
35 — and to the nearest Seaboard not more than 20, or 25.
— Upon the River Neuse, & 80 miles above Newbern, the
Convention of the State that adopted the federal Constitu-
tion made choice of a spot, or rather district within which
to fix their Seat of Government ; but it being lower than
the back Members (of the Assembly) who hitherto have
been most numerous inclined to have it they have found
means to obstruct the measure — but since the Cession of
,0* This building was erected for Governor Tryon in 1769; and his
demand upon the Assembly for twenty-five thousand dollars for the
purpose of building a palace "suitable for the residence of the royal
governor," was one of the causes of strong popular indignation against
the governor. His wife and sister, both beautiful and accomplished
■women, used every blandishment to induce compliance on the part of
the representatives of the people. Mrs. Tryon gave them princely
dinners and balls. Human nature then, as now, was weak, and Tryon
not only secured the first appropriation of $25,000, but a further sum of
$50,000.
A drawing of the building, with a full account of it, may be found
in Lossing's Pictorial Field Book of the Revolution, ii., 364, secor.d edi-
tion.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 175
their Western territory it is supposed that the matter will
be revived to good effect.
Friday, 22d.
Under an Escort of horse, and many of the principal
Gentlemen of Newbern I recommenced my journey— dined
at a place called Trenton which is the head of the boat
navigation of the River Trent, wch. is crossed at this place
on a bridge — and lodged at one Shrine's 10 m. farther —
both indifferent Houses.
Saturday, 23d.
Breakfasted at one Everets 12 miles bated at a Mr. Foy's
12 miles farther and lodged at one Sage's 20 miles beyd.
it — all indifferent Houses.
Sunday, 24th.
Breakfasted at an indifferent House about 13 miles from
Sage's — and three miles further met a party of Light Horse
from Wilmington ; and after these a Commee. & other
Gentlemen of the Town ; who came out to escort me into
it, and at which I arrived under a federal salute at very
good lodgings prepared for me, about two o'clock — at these
I dined with the Commee. whose company I asked.
The whole Road from Newbern to Wilmington (except
in a few places of small extent) passes through the most
barren country I ever beheld ; especially in the parts near-
est the latter; which is no other than a bed of white sand.
— In places, however, before we came to these, if the ideas
of poverty could be separated from the Sand, the appear-
176 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON.
ances of it are agreeable, resembling a lawn well covered
with evergreens, and a good verdure below from a broom
or course grass which having sprung since the burning of
the Woods had a neat and handsome look especially as
there were parts entirely open — and others with ponds of
water, which contributed not a little to the beauty of the
scene.
Wilmington is situated on the Cape Fear River, about
30 miles by water from its mouth, but much less by land —
It has some good houses pretty compactly built. — The
whole undr. a hill ; which is formed entirely of sand. — The
number of Souls in it amount by the enumeration to about
1000, but it is agreed on all hands that the Census in this
State has been very inaccurately, & Shamefully taken by
the Marshall's deputies; who, instead of going to Peoples
houses, tfc: there, on the spot, ascertaining the Nos. ; have
advertised a meeting of them at certain places, by which
means those who did not attend (and it seems many pur-
posely avoided doing it, some from an apprehension of its
being introductory of a tax, & others from religious scru-
ples) have gone with their families, unnumbered — In other
instances, it is said these deputies have taken their informa-
tion from the Captains of Militia Companies ; not only as
to the men on their Muster Rolls, but of the Souls, in their
respective families ; which at best, must in a variety of
cases, be mere conjecture whilst all those who are not on
their lists — Widows and their families tfce. pass unnoticed.
Wilmington, unfortunately for it, has a Mud bank,
miles below, over which not more than 10 feet water can
be brought at common tides, yet it is suid vessels of 250
SOUTHEKN TOUR. 177
Tons have come up. — The quty. of Shipping, which load
here annually, amounts to about 1200 Tonns. — The exports
consist chiefly of Naval Stores and lumber. — Some Tobac-
co, Corn, Rice, & flax seed with Porke. — It is at the head
of the tide navigation, but inland navigation may be ex-
tended 115 miles farther to and above Fayettesville which
is from Wilmington 90 miles by land, <fc 115 by Water as
above. — Fayettesville is a thriving place containing near
Souls— 6000 Hhds. of Tobacco, & 3000 Hhds. of
Flax Seed have been reed, at it in the course of the year.
Monday, 25th.
Dined with the Citizens of the place at a public dinner
given by them — Went to a Ball in the evening at which
there were 62 ladies — illuminations, Bonfires, &c.
Tuesday, 26th.
Having sent my Carriage across the day before, I left
Wilmington about 6 o'clock, accompanied by most of the
Gentlemen of the Town, and breakfasting at Mr. Ben.
Smith's lodged at one Russ' 25 miles from Wilmington. —
An indifferent House.
Wednesday, 27th.
Breakfasted at Willm. Cause's a little out of the direct
Road 14 miles — crossed the boundary line between No. &
South Carolina abt. half after 12 o'clock which is 10 miles
from Cause's — dined at a private house (one Cochran's, I
about 2 miles farther — and lodged at Mr. Vareen's 14
8*
178 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
miles more and 2 miles short of the long bay. — To this
house we were directed as a Tavern, but the proprietor of
it either did not keep one, or would not acknowledge it —
we therefore were entertained (& very kindly) without
being able to make compensation.
Thursday, 28th.
Mr. Vareen piloted us across the Swash (which at high
water is impassable, & at times, by the shifting of the
Sands is dangerous) on the long Beach of the Ocean ; and
it being at a proper time of the tide we passed along it
with ease and celerity to the place of quitting it, which is
estimated 16 miles, — five miles farther we got dinner & fed
our horses at a Mr. Pauley's a private house, no public one
beino- on the Road ; — and being met on the Road, & kindly
invited by a Doctor Flagg to his house, we lodged there ;
it being about 10 miles from Pauley's & 33 from Va-
reen's.
Friday, 29th.
We left Doctr. Flagg's about 6 o'clock, and arrived at
€aptn. Wm, Alston's on the Waggamau108 to Breakfast.
Captn. Alston is a Gentleman of large fortune and
esteemed one of the neatest Rice planters in the State of
So. Carolina and a proprietor of the most valuable ground
for the culture of this article. — His house which is large,
new, and elegantly furnished stands on a sand hill, high for
the Country, with his Rice fields below ; the contrast of
108 Waccaraaw.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 179
which with the lands back of it, and the Sand & piney
barrens through which we had passed is scarcely to be
conceived.
At Captn. Alston's Ave were met by General Moultree,
Col0' Washington109 & Mr. Rutledge (son of the present
Chief Justice of So. Carolina) who had come out that far
to escort me to town. — We dined and lodged at this Gen-
tlemans and Boats being provided we the next morning
Saturday, 30th.
Crossed the Waggamau to Georgetown by descending
the River three miles — at this place we were reed, under a
Salute of Cannon, & by a Company of Infantry handsome-
ly uniformed. — I dined with the Citizens in public ; and
in the afternoon, was introduced to upwards of 50 ladies
who had assembled (at a Tea party) on the occasion.
George Town seems to be in the shade of Charleston —
It suffered during the War by the British, having had
many of its Houses burnt. — It is situated on a pininsula
betwn. the River Waccamaw & Sampton Creek about 15
i°9 Colonel William Washington, the eminent cavalry officer in the
southern campaign. He had invited the President, several months
before he commenced his journey, to accept the hospitalities of his
house in Charleston. "I cannot," replied the president, "without
involving myself in inconsistency ; as I have determined to pursue the
same plan in my Southern — as I did in my Eastern visit, which was
not to incommode any private family by taking up my quarters with
them during my journey. It leaves me unencumbered by engage-
ments, and by a uniform adherence to it, I shall avoid giving umbrage
to any, by declining all such invitations."
180 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
miles from the Sea — a bar is to be passed, over which not
more than 12 feet water can be brot. except at Spring
tides; which (tho' the Inhabitants are willing to entertain
different ideas,) must ever be a considerable let to its
importance ; especially if the cut between the Santee &
Cooper Rivers, should ever be accomplished.
The Inhabitants of this place (either unwilling or unable)
could give no account of the number of Souls in it, but I
should not compute them at more than 5 or 600.— Its
chief export, Rice.
Sunday, May first.
Left Georgetown about 6 o'clock and crossing the Santee
Creek at the Town, and the Santee River 12 miles from it,
at Lynch's Island, we breakfasted and dined at Mrs.
Horry's about 1 5 miles from Georgetown & lodged at the
Plantation of Mr. Manigold110 about 19 miles farther.
Monday, 2d.
Breakfasted at the Country seat of Govr. Pinckney11' about
1!0 Manigault. It is related of one of this family (who were descend-
ants of French Protestant refugees who settled in South Carolina), that
while the siege of Charleston by the British, in 1780, was progressing,
a lighted bomb fell near him, within the breastwork. He caught it
up instantly, and throwing it into a wet ditch outside, exclaimed,
" What for you smoke your pipe here?"
111 Charles Pinckney, one of the delegates in the convention that
framed the Federal Constitution. He was governor of his State at
three different periods; a Senator of the United States, and minister to
Spain.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 181
18 miles from our lodging place, & then came to the ferry
at Haddrcl's point, 6 miles further, where I was met hy the
Recorder of the City, Genl. Pinckney & Edward Rutledge,
Esqr. in a 12 oared barge rowed by 12 American Captains
of Ships, most elegantly dressed. — There were a great
number of other Boats with Gentlemen and ladies in them ;
— and two Boats with Music ; all of whom attended me
across, and on the passage were met by a number of others.
— As we approached the town a salute with artillery com-
menced, and at the Wharf I was met by the Governor, the
Lt. Governor, the Intendt. of the City ; — the two Senators
of the State, Wardens of the City — Cincinnati, &c. &c. and
conducted to the Exchange where they passed by in
procession — from thence I was conducted in like manner to
my lodgings — after which I dined at the Governors (in
what he called a private way) with 15 or 18 Gentlemen.
It may as well in this as in any other place, be observed,
that the Country from Wilmington through which the
Road passes, is, except in very small spots, much the same
as what has already been described; that is to say, sand
& pine barrens — with very few inhabitants — we were
indeed informed that at some distance from the Road on
both sides the land was of a better quality, S: thicker
settled, but this could only be on the Rivers & larger
waters — for a perfect sameness seems to run through all
the rest of the Country — on these — especially the swamps
and low lands on the Rivers, the Soil is very rich; and
productive when reclaimed ; but to do this is both labori-
ous and expensive. — The Rice planters have two modes of
watering their fields— the first by the tide — the other by
182 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
resurvoirs drawn from the adjacent lands. — The former is
best because most certain. — A crop without either is
precarious, — because a drought may not only injure, but
destroy it. — Two and an half and 3 barrels to the Acre is
esteemed a good Crop and 8 or 10 Barrls. for each grown
hand is very profitable ; but some have 12 & 14, whilst
5 or 6 is reckoned the average production of a hand — a
barrel contains about 600 weight and the present price is
about I0/6 & "/ Sterg. pr. 100.
The lodgings provided for me in this place were very
good, being the furnished house of a Gentleman at present
in the Country ; but occupied by a person placed there on
purpose to accomodate me, & who was paid in the same
manner as any other letter of lodgings would have been
paid.
Tuesday, 3d.
Breakfasted with Mrs. Rutledge (the Lady of the Chief
Justice of the State who was on the Circuits) and dined
with the Citizens at a public dinr. given by them at the
Exchange.
Was visited about 2 o'clock, by a great number of the
most respectable ladies of Charleston — the first honor of
the kind I had ever experienced and it was as flattering as
it was singular.
Wednesday, 4th.
Dined with the Members of the Cincinnati, and in the
evening went to a very elegant dancing Assembly at the
Exchange — At which were 250 elegantly dressed & hand-
some ladies.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 183
In the forenoon (indeed before breakfast to day) I visited
and examined the lines of attack & defence of the City and
was satisfied that the defence was noble & honorable altho'
the measure was undertaken upon wrong principles and
impolitic."2
Thursday, 5th.
Visited the works of Fort Johnson James' Island, and
Fort Moultree on Sullivans Island ; — both of which are in
Ruins, and scarcely a trace of the latter left — the former
quite fallen.
Dined with a very large Company at the Governor's &
in the evening went to a Concert at the Exchange at wch.
there were at least 400 ladies the number & appearance of
wch. exceeded any thing of the kind I had ever seen.
Friday, 6th.
Viewed the town on horseback by riding through most
of the principal Streets.
Dined at Majr. Butler's and went to a Ball in the even-
ing at the Governors where there was a select Company of
ladies.
Saturday, 7th.
Before break (fast) I visited the Orphan House at which
there were one hundred &, seven boys & girls — This
appears to be a charitable institution and under good
112 These lines were upon Charleston Neck, extending from the Ash-
Ley to the Cooper river, at the junction of which the eitj stands.
184: DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
management. — I also viewed the City from the balcony of
Church from whence the Avhole is seen in one view
and to advantage, the Gardens & green trees which are
interspersed adding much to the beauty of the prospect.
Charleston stands on a Pininsula between the Ashley &
Cooper Rivers and contains about 1600 dwelling houses
and nearly 16.000 Souls of which about 8000 are white — It
lies low with unpaved streets (except the footways) of sand.
— There are a number of very good houses of Brick &
wood but most of the latter — The Inhabitants are wealthy,
— Gay — & hospitable ; appear happy and satisfied with the
Genl. Government. A cut is much talked off between the
Ashley & Santee Rivers but it would seem I think, as if
the accomplishment of the measure was not very near — It
would be a great thing for Charleston if it could be ef-
fected.— The principal exports from this place is Rice, In-
digo, and Tobacco ; of the last from 5 to 8000 Hhds. have
been exported, and of the first from 80 to 120,000 Barrels.
Sunday, 8th.
Went to Crowded Churches in the morning & afternoon.
to in the morning & in the afternoon.
Dined with General Moultree.
Monday, 9th.
At six o'clock I recommenced my journey for Savanna ;
attended by a Corps of the Cincinnati and most of the
principal Gentlemen of the City as far as the bridge over
Ashley River, where we breakfasted, and proceeded to
SOUTHERN TOUR. 185
Col°- W. "Washington's at Sandy-hill with a select party of
particular friends — distant from Charleston 28 miles.
Tuesday, 10th.
Took leave of all my friends and attendants at this place
(except General Moultree & Majr. Butler the last of whom
intended to accompany me to Savanna, and the other to
Purisburgh,"3 at which I was to he met by Boats,) & break-
fasting at Judge Bee's 12 miles from Sandy Hill, lodged at
Mr. Obrian Smith's 18 or 20 further on.
Wednesday, 11th.
After an early breakfast at Mr. Smiths we road 20 miles
to a place called Pokitellieo"4 where a dinner was provided
by the Parishioners of Prince William for my reception,
and an address from them was presented and answered. —
After dinner we proceeded 16 miles farther to Judge Hay-
ward's where we lodged, &, as also at Mr. Smith's were
kindly and hospitably entertained. — My going to Col0-
Washington's is to be ascrihed to motives of friendship ti;
relationship ; but to Mr. Smith's & Judge Haywards to
those of necessity ; their being no public houses on the
Road and my distance to get to these private ones increased
at least 10 or 12 miles between Charleston and Savanna.
113 Purysburg, on the Savannah river, named in honor of Johi
Fury, founder of a Swiss settlement in South Carolina. It was Lin-
coln's head- quarters for a while, early in 1779.
114 Poeotaligo, on the Conibahee river, Beaufort District, South Caro-
lina.
186 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Thursday, 12th.
By five o'clock we set out from Judge Hayward's, and
road to Purisburgh 22 miles to breakfast.
At that place I was met by Messrs. Jones, Col0- Haber-
sham, Mr. Jno. Houston, Genl. Mcintosh and Mr. Clay,115 a
Comee. from the City of Savanna to conduct me thither.
— Boats also were ordered there by them for my accomo-
dation ; among which a handsome 8 oared barge rowed by
8 American Captns. attended. — In my way down the
River I called upon Mrs. Green the Widow of the de-
ceased Genl. Green, (at a place called Mulberry Grove) &
asked her how she did.'16 — At this place (2 miles from
Purisburgh) my horses and Carriages were landed, and had
12 miles farther by Land to Savanna. — The wind & tide
being both agst. us, it was 6 o'clock before we reached the
City where we were received under every demonstration
that could be given of joy & respect. — We were Seven
>[5 Noble Wiinberly Jones, Joseph Habersham, John Houston,
Lachlin Mcintosh, and Joseph Clay, all eminent patriots during the
Revolution.
118 The State of Georgia gave General Nathaniel Greene quite a large
tract of land in testimony of appreciation for his services in the South-
ern campaigns of the Revolution. He went to Georgia in 1785, to look
after his estate ; while walking one day, in June, 1786, without an um-
brella, he was " sun struck," and died on the 19th of that month,
at the age of forty-six years. His widow occupied the property
until her death. There, under the roof of that hospitable lady,
in 1792 or '93, Eli Whitney, the inventor of the cotton-gin, plan-
ned and constructed his first machine ; and at that home, in 1807, the
daughter of General Greene, received the brass cannon, captured at
Eutaw Springs, which Congress voted to her gallant father.
SOUTHERN TOUK. 187
hours making the passage which is often performed in 4,
tho' the computed distance is 25 miles — Illumns. at night.
I was conducted by the Mayor & Wardens to very good
lodging which had been provided for the occasion, and par-
took of a public dinner given by the Citizens at the Coffee
Room. — At Purisburgh I parted with Genl. Moultree.
Friday, 13th.
Dined with the Members of the Cincinnati at a public
dinner given at the same place — and in the evening went
to a dancing Assembly at which there was about 100 well
dressed & handsome ladies.
Saturday, 14th.
A little after 6 o'clock, in Company with Genl. Mcin-
tosh, Genl. Wayne, the Mayor and many others (principal
Gentlemen of the City,) I visited the City, and the attack
& defence of it in the year 1779, under the combined
forces of France and the United States, commanded by the
Count de Estaing & Genl. Lincoln."7 — To form an opinion
cf the attack at this distance of time, and the change which
has taken place in the appearance of the ground by the
cutting away of the woods, &c. is hardly to be done with
justice to the subject ; especially as there is remaining
scarcely any of the defences.
Dined to day with a number of the Citizens (not less
117 Traces of these lines of defence are still visible in the rear of tli«
town. For an account of their appearance as late as 1848, sue Loss-
ing's Pictorial Field Book of the Revolution., ii., 531, second edition.
1S8 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
than 200) in an elegant Bower erected for the occasion on
the Bank of the River below the Town. — In the evening
there was a tolerable good display of fireworks.
Sunday, 15th.
After morning Service, and receiving a number of visits
from the most respectable ladies of the place (as was the
case yesterday) I set out for Augusta, Escorted beyd. the
limits of the City by most of the Gentlemen in it, and din-
ing at Mulberry Grove the Seat of Mrs. Green, — lodged at
one Spencers — distant 15 miles.
Savanna stands upon what may be called high ground
for this Country — It is extremely Sandy wch. makes the
walking very disagreeable ; & the houses uncomfortable in
warm & windy weather, as they are filled with dust when-
ever these happen. — The town on 3 sides is surrounded
with cultivated Rice fields which have a rich and luxuriant
appearance. On the 4th or backside it is a fine sand. —
The harbour is said to be very good, & often filled with
square rigged vessels, but there is a bar below over which
not more than 12 water can be brot. except at sprg. tides.
— The tide does not flow above 12 or 14 miles above the
City though the River is swelled by it more than double
that distance. — Rice & Tobacco (the last of wch. is greatly
increasing) are the principal Exports — Lumber & Indigo
are also Exported, but the latter is on the decline, and it is
supposed by Hemp & Cotton. — Ship timber, viz : live Oak
& Cedar, is (and may be more so) valuable in the exptn.
SOUTHERN TOUK. 189
Monday, 16th.
Breakfasted at Kussells— 15 miles from Spencer's— dined
at Garnets 19 further & lodged at Pierces 8 miles more, in
all — 42 miles to day.
Tuesday, 17 th.
Breakfasted at Spinner's 17 miles— dined at Lamberts
13— and lodged at Waynesborough (web. was coming 6
miles out of our way) 14, in all 43 miles-Waynesborough
is a small place, but the Seat of the Court of Burkes
County— 6 or 8 dwelling houses is all it contains ;— an
attempt is making (without much apparent effect) to
establish an Academy at it as is the case also in all the
Counties.
Wednesday, 18th.
Breakfasted at Tulcher's 15 miles from Waynesborough ;
and within 4 miles of Augusta met the Govor. (Telfair),
Judge Walton,"8 the Attorney Genl. & most of the princi-
pal Gentlemen of the place; by whom I was escorted into
the Town, & reed, under a discharge of Artillery— the
distance I came to day was about 32 miles-Dined with a
large Company at the Governors, & drank Tea there with
many well dressed Ladies.
The Road from Savanna to Augusta is, for the most
• us George Walton, one of the signers of the Declaration of Inde-
pendence. A fine monument stands in Augusta, erected to the mem-
ory of Walton and his Georgia colleagues who signed that instrument.
100 DIAEY OF "WASHINGTON.
part, through Pine barrens; but more uneven than I had
been accustomed to since leavg. Petersburgh in Virginia,
especially after riding about 30 miles from the City of that
name ; here & there indeed, a piece of Oak land is passed
on this Road, but of small extent & by no means of the
first quality.
Thursday, 19th.
Received & answered an Address from the Citizens of
Augusta; — dined with a large Company of them at their
Court Ho. — and went to an Assembly in the evening at
the Accadamy ; at which there were between 60 & 70
well dressed ladies.
Friday, 20th.
Viewed the Ruins, or rather small Remns. of the Works
which had been erected by the British during the War
and taken by the Americans. — Also the falls, which are
about 2 miles above the Town ; — and the Town itself.
These falls (as they are called) are nothing more than
rapids. — They are passable in their present state by boats
with skilful hands, but may at a very small expence be
improved, by removing a few rocks only, to streighten the
passage. — Above them there is good boat navigation for
many miles ; by which the produce may be, & in some
measure is, transported. — At this place, i. e. the falls, the
good lands begin ; & encrease in quality to the westward &
No.ward. — All below them, except the Interval lands on
the Rivers and Rice Swamps which extend from them, the
whole Country is a Pine barren. — The town of Augusta is
SOUTHERN TOUR.
191
well laid out with wide & spacious Streets.— It stands on
a large area of a perfect plain but it is not yet thickly
built tho' surprizingly so for the time; for in 1783 there
were not more than half a dozen dwelling houses ; now
there are not less than containing about
Souls of which about are blacks.— It bids fair to be
a large Town being at the head of the present navigation,
& a fine Country back of it for support, which is settling
very fast by Tobacco planters.— The culture of which ar-
ticle is encreaseing very fast, and bids fair to be the prin-
cipal export from the State; from this part of it, it certain-
ly will be so.
Augusta, though it covers more ground than Savanna,
does Tot contain as many Inhabitants the latter having by
the late census between H & 1500 hundred whites and
about 800 blacks.
Dined at a private dinner with Govr. Telfair to day;
and gave him dispatches for the Spanish Govr. of East
Florida, respecting the Countenance given by that Governt.
to the fugitive Slaves of the Union— wch. dispatches were
to be forwarded to Mr. Seagrove, Collector of St. Mary's,
who was requested to be the bearer of them, and instruct-
ed to make arrangements for the prevention of these evils
and, if possible, for the restoration of the property—
especially of those slaves wch. had gone off since the orders
of the Spanish Court, to discountenance this practice of
reca:. them.
192 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Saturday, 21st.
Left Augusta about 6 o'clock, and takg. leave of the
Governor & principal Gentlemen of the place at the bridge
over Savanna River, where they had assembled for the
purpose, I proceeded in Company with Col08- Hampton119
& Taylor, & Mr. Lithgow a committee from Columbia,
(who had come on to meet & conduct me to that place) &
a Mr. Jameson from the Village of Granby on my Rout.
Dined at a house about 20 miles from Augusta and
lodged at one Odem, about 20 miles farther.
Sunday, 22d.
Rode about 21 miles to breakfast, and passing through
the village of Granby IM just below the first falls in the Con-
garee (which was passed in a flat bottomed boat at a Rope
ferry,) I lodged at Columbia, the newly adopted Seat of the
Government of South Carolina about 3 miles from it, on the
No. side of the River, and 27 from my breakfasting stage.
The whole Road from Augusta to Columbia is a pine
barren of the worst sort, being hilly as well as poor. — This
circumstance added to the distance, length of the stages,
1,9 Colonel Wade Hampton, a meritorious officer in the Southern
Army of the Revolution, and a commander on the northern frontier of
New York in the War of 1812.
120 The site of Fort Granby, a dwelling fortified by the British, as a
link in a chain of military posts from Camden to Charleston. It was
captured by Colonel Lee, of the famous partisan " Legion," in May,
1781.
SOUTH KEN TOUR. 193
want of water and heat of the day, foundered one of my
horses very badly.
Beyond Granby 4 miles I was met by sevl. Gentlemen of
it nlace & Wynnsborough ; and on the banks of the
No side by a number of others, who escorted
!3d.
Dined at a public dinnei ... ie State house with a num-
ber of Gentlemen & Ladies of the Town of Columbia, &
Country round about to the amt. of more than 150, of
which 50 or 60 were of the latter.
Tuesday, 24th.
The condition of my foundered horse obliged me to
remain at this place, contrary to my intention, this day
also.
large scale ; but, in my
on the River below the
ood, with very few houses
in it, and those all wooden ones — The State House (which
is also of wood) is a large and commodious building, but
unfinished — The Town is on dry, but cannot be called high
ground, and though surrounded by Piney & Sandy land is,
itself, good — The State house is near two miles from the
River, at the confluence of the Broad River & Saluda. —
From Granby the River is navigable for Craft which will,
when the River is a little swelled, carry 3000 bushels of
Grain — when at its usual heighth less, and always some. —
The River from hence to the Wateree below which it takes
194 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
the name of the Santee is very crooked ;121 it "being, ac-
cording to the computed distance near 400 miles — Colum-
bia from Charleston is 130 miles.
Wednesday, 25th.
Set out at 4 o'clock for Camden — (the foundered horse
being led slowly on) — breakfasted at an indifferent house
22 miles from the town, (the first we came to) and reached
Camden about two o'clock, 14 miles further, when an
address was reed. «fc answered. — Dined (late with a number
of Gentlemen & Ladies at a public dinner. — The Road
from Columbia to Camden, excepting a mile or two at each
place, goes over the most miserable pine barren I ever saw,
being quite a white sand, & very hilly. — On the Wateree
within a mile & half of which the town stands the lands
are very good, — they Culture Corn, Tobacco & Indigo. —
Vessels carrying 50 or 60 Hhds. of Tobo. come up to the
Ferry at this place at which there is a Tobacco Whare-
house.
Thursday, 26th.
After viewing the british works about Camden I set out
for Charlotte — on my way — two miles from Town — I ex-
amined the ground on wch. Genl. Green & Lord Rawdon
had their action.122 — The ground had but just been taken
121 At Buck's Head Neck, near Fort Motto, just above the junction of
■the Congaree and Wateree (which form the Santee), the Congaree
makes a sweep of eight miles and approaches itself to within the dis-
tance of a quarter of a mile.
««> On Hobkirk's Hill, April 25, 1781.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 195
by the former — was well chosen — but he not well estab-
lished in it before he was attacked ; which by capturing a
Videt was, in some measure by surprise — Six miles further
on I came to the ground where Genl. Gates & Lord Corn-
wallis had their Engagement wch. terminated so unfavour-
ably for the former.1-'3 — As this was a night meeting of both
Armies on their march, & altogether unexpected each
formed on the ground they met without any advantage in
it on either side it being level & open.— Had Genl. Gates
been % a mile further advanced, an impenetrable Swam})
would have prevented the attack which was made on him
by the British Army, and afforded him time to have formed
his own plans ; but having no information of Lord Corn-
wTallis's designs, and perhaps not being apprised of this ad-
vantage it was not seized by him.
Camden is a small place with appearances of some new
buildings. — It was much injured by the British whilst in
their possession.1-1
After halting at one Sutton's 14 m. from Camden I
lodged at James Ingrains 1 2 miles father.
"3 On the north side of Sanders's Creek, August 16, 1780. The two
generals were approaching each other in the night, along a road filled
with deep sand ; and neither of them had any knowledge of the fact,
until their advanced guards came in contact. The battle occurred
early in the morning.
is* Lord Kawdon, the British commander there, alarmed for the safety
of his forts in the lower country, set fire to Camden on the 10th of
May, 1781, and retreated down the Santee.
196 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
Friday, 27th.
Left Ingrains about 4 o'clock, and breakfasting at one
Barr's 18 miles distant lodged at Majr. Crawford's 8 miles
farther — About 2 miles from this place I came to the Cor-
ner where the No. Carolina line comes to the Rd. — from
whence the Road is the boundary for 12 miles more. — At
Majr. Crawfords I was met by some of the chiefs of the
Catawba nation who seemed to be under apprehension that
some attempts were making, or would be made to deprive
them of part of the 40,000 Acres wch. Avas secured to
them by Treaty and wch. is bounded by this Road.1'25
125 This is yet a reservation for the Catawba Indians, near the south
east corner of Yorkville district, in South Carolina. It was originally
larger than now. They were once a powerful tribe, but are dwindled to
the most insignificant remnant. Their chief village was on the Catawba
river, about twenty-rive miles from Yorkville. The following eloquent
petition of Peter Harris, a Catawba warrior during the Eevolution, is
preserved among the Colonial records at Columbia, South Carolina.
It is dated, 1822 :
" I am one of the lingering survivors of an almost extinguished race.
Our graves will soon be our only habitations. I am one of the few
stalks that still remain in the field where the tempest of the Eevolution
has passed. I fought against the British for your sake. The British
have disappeared, and you are free ; yet from me have the British took
nothing; nor have I gained any thing by their defeat. I pursued the
deer for subsistence; the deer are disappearing, and I must starve.
God ordained me for the forest, and my ambition is the shade. But
the strength of my arm decays, ami my feet fail me in the chase. The
hand which fought for your liberties is now open for your relief. In
my youth I bled in battle, that you might be independent ; let not my
heart in my old age bleed for the want of your commiseration."
SOUTHERN TOUR. 197
Saturday, 28th.
Sett off from Crawfords by 4 o'clock and breakfasting at
one Harrison's 18 miles from it got into Charlotte 13 miles
further, before 3 oclock, — dined with Genl. Polk and a
small party invited by him, at a Table prepared for the
purpose.128
It was not, until I had got near Barrs that I had quit
the Piney <fe Sandy lands — nor until I had got to Craw-
fords before the lands took quite a different complexion —
here they began to assume a very rich look.
Charlotte is a trifling place, though the Court of Meck-
lenburg is held in it — There is a School (called a College)
in it at which, at times there has been 50 or 60 boys.147
Sunday, 29th.
Left Charlotte about 7 o'clock, dined at Col0- Smiths 15
miles off, and lodged at Majr. Filers 7 miles farther.
128 General Thomas Polk, who was Colonel of the militia of Meck-
lenburg County, North Carolina, at the opening of the war for Inde-
pendence. It was in Charlotte, and partially under the influence and
through the exertions of General Polk, that a convention of delegates,
selected by the people of Mecklenburg County, passed resolutions at
the close of May, 1775, which virtually declared the people represented
free and independent of the British crown.
187 This was called, previous to the Revolution, Queen's Museum or
College. There the republicans of that section of North Carolina met
to discuss the exciting questions of the day. It was the Faneuil Hall
of Western Carolina.
198 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Monday, 30th.
At 4 o'clock I was out from Majr. Fifers ;'28 and in about
10 miles at the line which divides Mecklenburgh from
Rowan Counties ; I met a party of horse belonging to the
latter, who came from Salisbury to escort me on — (It
ought to have been mentioned also that upon my entering
the State of No. Carolina I was met by a Party of the
Mecklenburgh horse — but these being near their homes I
dismissed them) — I was also met 5 miles from Salisbury by
the Mayor of, the Corporation, Judge Mc. Koy, & many
others ; — Mr. Steel, Representative for the district,129 was so
polite as to come all the way to Charlotte to meet me. —
We arrived at Salisbury about 8 o'clock, to breakfast, — 20
miles from Captn. Fifers. — The lands between Charlotte &
Salisbury are very fine, of a reddish cast and well timbered,
with but very little underwood — Between these two places
158 Son of John Phifer, one of the leading patriots of Mecklenburg
County, who died early in the Eevolution. His remains were buried
at the Bed Hills, three miles west of Concord, in Cabarrus County,
North Carolina. I saw over hi8 grave in 1848, a rough, mutilated
memorial slab, upon which, tradition averred, a fire was built by Brit-
ish soldiers, when on their march from Charlotte to Salisbury, in con-
tempt for the patriot's memory. He was one of the signers of the
Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence.
129 General John Steele, who was a representative in Congress for
four years. He was a native of Salisbury, and first appeared in public
life as a member of the North Carolina House of Commons, in 1787.
He was appointed by President Washington, controller of the United
States Treasury, and was continued in office by President Adams.
He died in 1815.
SOUTHERN TOUR. 199
are the first meadows I have seen on the Road since I left
Virga. & here also we appear to be getting into a "Wheat
Country.
This day I foundered another of my horses.
Dined at a public dinner giyn. by the Citizens of Salis-
bury ; tfc in the afternoon drank Tea at the same place
with about 20 ladies, who had been assembled for the
occasion.
Salisbury is but a small place altho' it is the County
town, and the district Court is held in it; — nor does it
appear to be much on the increase, — there is about three
hundred souls in it and tradesmen of different kinds.
Tuesday, 31st.
Left Salisbury about 4 o'clock ; at 5 miles crossed the
Yadkin,130 the principal stream of the Pedee, and break-
fasted on the No. Bank, (while my Carriages & horses were
crossing) at a Mr. Youngs1 fed my horses 10 miles farther,
at one Reeds — and about 3 o'clock (after another halt)
arrived at Salem, one of the Moravian towns 20 miles
farther — In all 35 from Salisbury.
The Road between Salisbury & Salem passes over very
little good land, and much that is different ; being a good
deal mixed with Pine, but not sand.
Salem is a small but neat village ; »fc like all the rest of
»° At the Trading Ford, probably, where Greene with Morgan and
his light troops crossed, with Cornwallis in pursuit. There is now a
great bridge over the Yadkin, on the Salisbury road, about a mile and
a half above the Trading Ford.
200 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
the Moravian settlements, is governed by an excellent
police — having within itself all kinds of artizans — The
number of Souls does not exceed 200.'31
131 There is still a very flourishing settlement of Moravians, or
United Brethren, at Salem, where the church was first planted in 1765.
The log-house in which the first Moravian settlers were at first lodged,
was yet standing in 1857.
Washington's visit as recorded in his Diary, is duly noted in the
records of the Moravian Society at Salem, and copies of the addresses
delivered on that occasion are preserved.
The following is the address of the Moravians to the President : —
" Happy in sharing the honor of a visit from the illustrious President
of the Union to the Southern States, the Brethren of Wachovia humbly
beg leave, upon this joyful occasion, to express their highest esteem,
duty, and affection, for the great patriot of this country.
" Deeply impressed as we are with gratitude to the great Author of
our being for his unbounded mercies, we cannot but particularly
acknowledge his gracious providence over the temporal and political
prosperity of the country, in the peace whereof we do find peace, and
■wherein none can take a warmer interest than ourselves ; in particular,
when we consider that the same Lord who preserved your precious
person in so many imminent dangers has made you, in a conspicuous
manner, an instrument in his hands to forward that happy constitution,
together with those improvements, whereby our United States begin
to flourish, over which you preside with the applause of a thankful
nation.
" Whenever, therefore, we solicit the protection of the Father of
mercies over this favored country, we cannot but fervently implore his
kindness for your preservation, which is so intimately connected
therewith.
" May this gracious Lord vouchsafe to prolong your valuable life
as a further blessing, and an ornament of the constitution, that by your
worthy example the regard for religion be increased, and the improve-
ments of civil society encouraged.
" The settlements of the United Brethren, though small, will always
make it their study to contribute as much as in them lie s to the peace and
SOUTHERN TOUK. 201
Wednesday.
JUNE, 1st.
Having received information that Governor Martin was
on his way to meet me ; and would be at Salem this
evening, I resolved to await his arrival at this place instead
of halting a day at Guilford as I had intended ;
Spent the forenoon in visiting the Shops of the different
improvement of the United States, and all the particular parts they live
in, joining their ardent prayers to the best wishes of this whole conti-
nent, that your personal as well as domestic happiness may abound, and
a series of successes may crown your labors for the prosperity of our
times and an example to future ages, until the glorious reward of a
faithful servant shall be your portion.
"Signed, in behalf of the United Brethren in Wachovia;
" Frederick William Marshall,
" John Daniel Kohler,
" Christian Lewis Benzien.
" Salem, the 1st of June, 1791."
To which the President of the United States was pleased to return
the following answer : —
" To the United Brethren of Wachovia:
"Gentlemen : I am greatly indebted to your respectful and affec-
tionate expression of regard, and I am not less obliged by the patriotic
sentiment contained in your address.
" From a society whose governing principles arc industry and the
love of order, much may be expected towards the improvement and
prosperity of the country in which their settlements are formed, and
experience authorizes the belief that much will be obtained.
" Thanking you with grateful sincerity for your prayers in my behalf,
I desire to assure you of my best wishes for your social and individual
happiness. ,.. ,,
11 "G.Washington."
9«
202 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Tradesmen — The houses of accomodation for the single
men & Sisters of the Fraternity — & their place of worship.
— Invited six of their principal people to dine with me —
and in the evening went to hear them sing, & perform
on a variety of instruments Church music.
In the Afternoon Governor Martin as was expected (with
his Secretary) arrived.132
>32 This entry closes this volume of the Diary. The President reach-
ed Mount Vernon on the 12th of June, having made a most satisfac-
tory journey of more than seventeen hundred miles, from his seat on
the Potomac, in sixty-six days, with the same team of horses. " My
return to this place is sooner than I expected," he wrote to Hamilton,
" owing to the uninterruptedness of my journey by sickness, from bad
weather, or accidents of any kind whatsoever," for which he had made
an allowance of eight days.
WASHINGTON'S
JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE OHIO,
IN 1753.
With Notes by John G. Shea
INTRODUCTION.
The earliest of Washington's diaries, printed almost as soon
a- its last page was written, possesses uncommon interest, from
the fulness with which he describes the events of his journey, —
a fulness for which we are indebted to the instructions of Gov-
ernor Dinwiddie.
Washington was then twenty-one, but already a " person of
distinction." Adjutant-general of the colonial troops, with the
rank of major, to him was committed the northern division of
the colony. His earlier exploration aa surveyor had brought
him into contact with the Indians, and none seemed better to
know and understand them ; while his early maturity, dignity,
and judgment, fitted him for any important undertaking that
did not require the experience of years.
Affairs had reached a crisis. France had colonized Canada,
Illinois, and Louisiana, and connected them by detached posts,
but the possession of the Ohio, so necessary to the safety of her
wide provincial power, was soon to fall into the hands of her
rival by the rapid progress of English colonization. To set a
barrier to its westward progress, France determined to run a
line of forts from Niagara to the forks of the Ohio, and down
that river.
The Indians first took the alarm. When the tidings reached
the Ohio that a French force was on its way to erect this line
of forts, a council of the wandering tribes, Mingoes, Shawnees,
206 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
and Delawares, met at Logstown, and in April, 1753, dispatch-
ed an envoy to Niagara, to protest against the action of the
French. The protest was unheeded. Tanacharisson then went
to Fort Presque Isle to meet Marin, and reported to Washington,
as we shall see, the result of his fruitless mission.
Pennsylvania then took the alarm, and Governor Hamilton
in vain urged his assembly to check the French invasion of their
frontiers, yet they appointed Norris their speaker, and Frank-
lin, to meet at Carlisle a deputation from the tribes. There
the Indian declared his will. The land was theirs. They
wished neither English nor French to intrude. Yet as danger
from the latter seemed more imminent, they were willing to
help the English to expel the French. They did not see that
it was but a change of masters, and if in the event English gar-
risons replaced the French, the power of the latter was scarce-
ly prostrated, when, in 1763, the long-smothered wrath of the
baffled red man, swept the English from Forts Erie, Le Boeuf,
and Venango, and burst in its might on Fort Pitt.
Virginia, too, moved, and Washington, from his official posi-
tion and his knowledge of the Indians, was selected by Gov-
ernor Dinwiddie to proceed to the Ohio, demand the with-
drawal of the French, and examine the condition of their forces.
The following letter, recently come to light, and one of the few
of that period of his career known, shows how he was engaged
when chosen for the mission to the Ohio.
"Winchester, Oct. 17, 1753.
Honorable Sir : — Last night, by return of the express who
went to Capt. Montour, I received the inclosed from Mr. Har-
ris, at Susquehanna. I think no means should be neglected to
preserve what few Indians still remain in our interest, for which
reason I shall send Mr. Gist, as soon as he arrives, which I ex-
pect will be to-day, to Harris' Ferry, in hopes of engaging and
INTRODUCTION. 207
bringing with him the Belt of Wampum and other Indians at
that place; and I shall further desire him to send an Indian
express to Andrew Montour, to try if he can be brought along
with him. In however trifling light the French attempting to
alienate the affections of our Southern Indians may at first
sight appear, I must look upon it as a thing of the utmost con-
sequence', that requires our greatest and most immediate atten-
tion. I have often wondered at not hearing that this was at-
tempted before, and had it noted, among other memoranda, to
acquaint your honor of when I should come down. The French
policy in treating with Indians is so prevalent, that I should not
be in the least surprised were they to engage the Cherokees,
Cuttabas, &c, unless timely and vigorous measures are taken to
prevent it. A pusillanimous behavior would ill suit the times,
and trusting for traders and common interpreters (who will sell
their integrity to the highest bidder) may prove the destruc-
tion of these affairs. I therefore think, that if a person of dis-
tinction, acquainted with their language, is to be found, his
price should be come to at any rate; if no such can be had, a
man of sense and character to conduct the Indians to any coun-
cil that may be had, or to superintend any other matters, will
be extremely necessary.
It is impertinent, I own, in me to offer my opinions on these
matters when better judges may direct; but my steady and
hearty. zeal in the cause, and the great impositions I have known
practised by the traders, &c, upon these occasions, would not
suffer me to be quite silent. I have heard, from undoubted
authority, that some of the Cherokees that have been introduced
as Sachems and Princes by the interpreters (who share their
presents and profits), have been no others than common hun-
ters and bloodthirsty villains. We have no accounts yet of the
militia from Fairfax. &c. This day I march with about one
hundred men to Fort Cumberland. Yesterday, by an express,
208 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
I was informed of the arrival of eighty odd recruits to Freder-
icksbnrgh, which I have ordered to proceed to this place, but
for want of the regularity being observed, by which I should
know where every officer, &c, ought to be, my orders are only
conditional and always confused. Whatever necessarys your
Honor gets below I should be glad to have them sent to Alex-
andria, from whence they come much more handy than from
Fredericksburgh ; besides, as provisions are lodged there, and
none at the other place, it will be best for the men to be all
sent there that is any ways convenient, for we have met with
insuperable difficulty at Fredericksburgh, in our march from
here, by the neglect of the Com., who is at this time greatly
wanted here. Therefore, I hope your Honor will order him up
immediately.
I am, Honorable Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
G. Washington.
But before this could have reached the governor, and been
acted upon, came his commission, with these
Instructions for George Washington.
Whereas I have received information of a body of French
forces being assembled in a hostile manner on the river Ohio,
intending by force of arms, to erect certain forts on the said
river, within this territory, and contrary to the dignity and
peace of our sovereign, the King of Great Britain. These are
therefore to require and direct you, the said George Washing-
ton, forthwith to repair to Logstown on the said river Ohio ; and
having there informed yourself where the said French forces
have posted themselves, thereupon to proceed to such place ;
and being there arrived, to present your credentials, together
with my letter to the chief commanding officer, and in the name
of his Britannic Majesty, to demand an answer thereto.
INTRODUCTION. 209
On your arrival at Logstown you are to address yourself to
the Half-King, to Monacatoocha, and other the Sachems of the
Six Nations, acquainting them with your orders to visit and
deliver my letter to the French commanding officer, and desir-
ing the said chiefs to appoint you a sufficient number of their
warriors to be your safeguard, as near the French as you may
desire, and to wait your further direction.
You are diligently to inquire into the numbers and force of the
French on the Ohio, and the adjacent country; how they are
likely to be assisted from Canada; and what are the difficulties
and conveniences of that communication, and the time required
for it.
You are to take care to be truly informed what forts the
French have erected, and where ; how they are garrisoned and
appointed, and what is their distance from each other, and from
Logstown ; and from the best intelligence you can procure, you
are to learn what gave occasion to this expedition of the
French ; how they are likely to be supported, and what then-
pretensions are.
When the French commandant has given you the required
and necessary dispatches, you are to desire of him a proper
guard to protect you as far on your return, as you may judge
for your safety, against any straggling Indians or hunters, that
may be ignorant of your character, and molest you.
Wishing you success in your negotiation, and a safe and
speedy return, I am, &c.
Robert Dinwiodie.
Williamsburg, October 30, 1753.
With these instructions Washington proceeded to the Ohio,
to demand the withdrawal of the French from the soil claimed
as English territory. This act opened a series of struggles,
in the course of which English, French, and Americans,
210 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
changed their relative positions, and which closed thirty years
after, with the gaze of mankind riveted on the august form of
him, whom we here behold the stripling.
By that series of struggles America alone profited. The
mighty Genius directing her destiny seems to have used the
power of England to drive France from the north and west and
south, and then used baffled France to drive the English power
within that line of lakes which Dongan, a century before, mark-
ed as our boundary ; used France, too, at a later day, to add to
the American limits, that Louisiana which she could not hold
herself, so that ere the century succeeding the events here de-
scribed had reached its close, a mighty republic, stretching
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, reveres, perpetuates, and
exalts the name of Washington.
J. G. S.
ADVERTISEMENT.
As it was thought advisable by his Honour the Governor,
to have the following account of my proceedings to and from
the French on the Ohio committed to print, I think I can do
no less than apologize, in some measure, for the numberless
imperfections of it. There intervened but one day between
my arrival in Williamsburg and the time for the Council's
meeting, for me to prepare and transcribe, from the rough
minutes I had taken in my travels, this journal ; the writing
of which only was sufficient to employ me closely the whole
time, consequently admitted of no leisure to consult of a
new and proper form to offer it in, or to correct and amend
the diction of the old ; neither was I apprised, nor did in
the least conceive, when I wrote this for his Honour's pe-
rusal, that it ever would be published, or even have more
than a cursory reading; till I was informed, at the meeting
of the present General Assembly, that it was already in the
press. There is nothing can recommend it to the pub-
lic but this : those things which came under the notice of
my own observation, I have been explicit and just in a re-
cital of; those which I have gathered from report, I have
been particularly cautious not to augment, but collected the
opinions of the several intelligencers, and selected from the
whole the most probable and consistent account.
G. Washington.
OCTOBER 31st, 1753.
I was commissioned and appointed by the Hon. Robert
Dinwiddie, Esq., Governor of Virginia,1 to visit and deliver
a letter to the commandant of the French forces on the
Ohio, and set out on the intended journey on the same
day (October 31, 1753); the next, I arrived at Fredericks-
burg, and engaged Mr. Jacob Vanbraanr to be my French
interpreter, and proceeded with him to Alexandria, where
Ave provided necessaries. From thence we went to Win-
chester, and got baggage, horses, &c, and from thence we
pursued the new road to Will's Creek, where we arrived on
the 14th of November.
i Robert Dinwiddie, a native of Scotland, had been a clerk to a col-
lector in a West-India custom-house, and gained the favor of govern-
ment, by exposing the frauds of that officer. For this he was, in 1741,
made surveyor of the customs of tlie Colonies, and having in that ea-
been obnoxious to the Virginia aristocracy, was made lieuten-
ant-governor of Virginia in 175-2. His administration was like that of
most colonial governors. Campbell thus describes its close, in his " His-
tory of Virginia," p. 497: "In January, 1758, Robert Dinwiddie, after
an arduous and disturbed administration of live years, worn out with
vexation and age, sailed from Virginia, not much regretted, except by
his particular friends."
2 Jacob Van Braam had served under Lawrence Washington, in Ver-
non's expedition against Carthageua, and had been fencing-master, as
he was now interpreter, to George Washington. In the subsequent
campaign when Washington capitulated at Fort Necessity. Van Braam,
acting as translator, made Washington admit that he had assassinated
De Jnmonville. At'terthat affair, he was left, with Stobo, as hostage in
tlie hands of the French.
214 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Here I engaged Mr. Gist3 to pilot us out, and also hired
four others as servitors, Barnaby Currin, and John M'Quire,
Indian traders, Henry Steward, and William Jenkins; and
in company with those persons, left the inhabitants the
next day.
NOVEMBER 22d.
The excessive rains and vast quantity of snow which
had fallen prevented our reaching Mr. Frazier's, an Indian
trader, at the mouth of Turtle Creek, on Monongahela
River, until Thursday, the 22nd. We were informed here
that expresses had been sent a few days before to the
traders down the river, to acquaint them with the French
general's death,1 and the return of the major part of the
French army into winter-quarters.
3 Christopher Gist was an early settler in those parts, and Washing-
ton, in recommending his appointment as Indian agent, thus writes to
John Robinson, speaker of the House of Burgesses, May SO, 1757 : " I
know of no person so well qualified for an undertaking of this sort as the
bearer, Captain Gist. He has had extensive dealings with the Indians,
is in great esteem among them, well acquainted with their manners and
customs, indefatigable and patient — most excellent qualities where In-
dians are concerned. As to his capacity, honesty, and zeal, I dare ven-
ture to engage." — Writings, vol. ii., p. 236.
4 This French General was Pierre Paul, Sieur de Marin, a brave and
intelligent officer, one of the best in Du Quesne's force, and high in the
esteem of that reformer of discipline. Du Quesne had dispatched him
to the Ohio, to found the fort at the confluence of the Alleghany and
Monongahela. The register of Fort Duquesne has the following entry :
"In the year one thousand seven hundred and fifty-three, the 29th of
October, died at half-past four o'.clock in the afternoon, in the Fort of
Riviere aux Bceufs, under the title of St. Peter, Monsieur Pierre Paul,
Esq., Sieur de Marin, Knight of the Military and Royal Order of St.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 215
The waters were quite impassable without swimming
our horses, which obliged us to get the loan of a canoe
from Frazier, and to send Barnaby Currin and Henry
Steward down the Monongahela, with our baggage, to meet
us at the Fork of the Ohio, about ten miles ; there to cross
the Allegany.
As I got down before the canoe, I spent some time in
viewing the rivers, and the land in the Fork, which I think
extremely well situated for a fort, as it has the absolute
command of both rivers.5 The land at the point is twenty,
Louis, Captain of Infantry and Commandant General of the army of the
Ohio, after having received the sacraments of penance, extreme unction,
and the viaticum, aged sixty-three years. His body was interred in
the cemetery of said fort by us, Recollect priest, chaplain of said fort
and, during the campaign, of the River Ohio. Were present at his in-
terment, Monsieur de Repentigny, commandant of said army and cap-
tain of infantry, Messieurs, du Muys. lieutenant of infantry, Benois,
lieutenant of infantry, de Simblin, major at said fort, Laforce, com
missary of the stores, who have signed with us
" Lb Gardeur de Repentigny,
"Laforce — Benois — Du Muys,
"J. Depre Simbun,
'' Friar Denis Baron,
Recollect priest, chaplain."
Mann had just erected Forts Presque Isle and Le Bceuf. Du Quesne
in his letter to M. De Rouille, August "20, 1753, says: "Sieur Marin
writes me on the 3d inst. that the fort at Presque Isle is entirely finish-
ed ; that the Portage road, which is six leagues in length, is also ready
for carriages; that the store which was necessary to be built halfway
across the Portage is in a condition to receive the supplies ; and that the
second fort, which is located at the mouth of the Riviere au Boeuf, will
soon be completed."— W. Y. Col. Doc, x., 256.
s This choice, says Dussieux, proves the accurate glance and excel-
lent judgment of the young major. But at the moment of his making
216 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
or twenty-five feet above the common surface of the water;
and a considerable bottom of flat, well-timbered land all
around it, very convenient for building. The rivers are
each a quarter of a mile or more across, and run here very
nearly at right angles, Allegany bearing northeast, and
Monongahela southeast. The former of these two is a
very rapid and swift running water, the other deep and
still, witbout any perceptible fall.
About two miles from this, on the southeast side of the
river, at the place where the Ohio Company intended to
erect a fort, lives Shingiss, King of the Delawares.6 We
called upon him, to invite him to counsel at the Logstown.
As I had taken a good deal of notice yesterday of the
situation at the Fork, my curiosity led me to examine this
more particularly, and I think it greatly inferior, either for
defence or advantages ; especially the latter. For a fort at
the Fork would be ecpially well situated on the Ohio, and
have the entire command of the Monongahela, which runs
up our settlement, and is extremely well designed for water-
carriage, and it is of a deep, still nature. Besides, a fort
at the Fork might be built at much less expense than at
the other places.
Nature has well contrived this lower place for water-
defence ; but the hill whereon it must stand, being about a
quarter of a mile in length, and then descending gradually
on the land side, will render it difficult and very expen-
the report, the French were already erecting Fort Duquesne on the
spot. — Le Canada sous la Domination Franpaise, p. 61.
6 Shingiss had been the terror of the English frontiers, hut had now
warmly espoused the cause of the English.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 217
sive to make a sufficient fortification there. The whole flat
upon the hill must be taken in, the side next the descent
made extremely high, or else the hill itself cut away ;
otherwise the enemy may raise batteries within that dis-
tance without being exposed to a single shot from the fort.
Shingiss attended us to the Logstown, where we arrived
between sun-setting and dark, the twenty-fifth day after I
left Williamsburg. We travelled over some extremely
good and bad land to get to this place.
A- soon as I came into town, I went to Monacatoocha
(as the Half-King7 was out at his hunting cabin on Little
Beaver Creek, about fifteen miles off), and informed him by
John Davidson, my Indian interpreter, that I was sent a
messenger to the French general, and was ordered to call
upon the sachems of the Six Nations to acquaint them with
it. I gave him a string of wampum and a twist of tobacco,
and desired him to send for the Half-King, which he prom-
ised to do by a runner in the morning, and for other
sachems. I invited him and the other great men present
to my tent, where they stayed about an hour, and returned.
According to the best observations I could make, Mr.
Gist's new settlement (which we passed by) hears about
west northwest seventy miles from Will's Creek ; Shainio-
pins, or the Fork, north by west, or north northwest, about
fifty miles from that ; and from thence to the Logstown the
course is nearly west about eighteen or twenty miles; so
' Half-King. Tanacharisson, a shrewd Seneca, was called the Half-
King, as his authority was subject to that of the Five Nations. Camp-
bell's " History of Virginia," p. 461. Sargent's "Braddock," p. 54. Ho
was with Washington in the affair with Jumonville, and died in Oct. 17"' 1.
10
218 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
that the whole distance, as we went and computed it, is at
least one hundred and thirty-five, or one hundred and foity
miles from our back inhabitants.
November, 25th.
Came to town, four of ten Frenchmen, who had deserted
from a company at the Kuskuskas,8 which lies at the mouth
of this river. I got the following account from them.
They were sent from New Orleans with a hundred men,
and eight canoe loads of provisions to this place, where
they expected to have met the same number of men, from
the forts on this side of Lake Erie, to convoy them and the
stores up, who were not arrived when they ran off.
I inquired into the situation of the French on the Missis-
sippi, their numbers, and what forts they had built. They
informed me that there were four small forts between New
Orleans and the Black Islands,9 garrisoned with about thirty
or forty men, and a few small pieces in each. That at New
Orleans, which is near the mouth of the Mississippi, there
are thirty-five companies of forty men each, with a pretty
strong fort mounting;- eight carriage guns : and at the Black
Islands there are several companies, and a fort with six
guns. The Black Islands are about a hundred and thirty
8 Kuskuskas was, it is said, an Indian town on Big Beaver Creek,
Pennsylvania.
9 Black Islands. Washington was here evidently misled by the
•sound, and mistook Illinois for Isles Noires, that is Black Islands.
There was no French post called Black Islands, but the name Illinois,
now so familiar to us, was then unheard in the British colonies. The
Miamis and Illinois were known as Chicktaghicks and Twifftwies, and
both together frequently under the last, the more common term.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 219
leagues above the mouth of the Ohio, which is about three
hundred and fifty above New Orleans. They also acquaint-
ed me that there was a small palisadoed fort on the Ohio,
at the mouth of the Obaish,10 about sixty leagues from the
Mississippi. The Obaish heads near the west end of Lake
Erie, and affords the communication between the French on
the Mississippi and those on the lakes. These deserters
came up from the lower Shannoah" town with one Brown,
an Indian trader, and were going to Philadelphia.
About three o'clock this evening, the Half-King came to
town. I went up and invited him, with Davidson, private-
ly, to my tent, and desired him to relate some of the partic-
ulars of his journey to the French commandant, and of his
reception there ; also, to give me an account of the ways
and distance. He told me that the nearest and levelest way
was now impassable, by reason of many large, miry savan-
nas ; that we must be obliged to go by Venango,12 and
™ Obaish, Wabash ; in French, Ouabache. This name was given by
Marquette, La Salle, and other early explorers, to the Ohio, but finally
became that of a branch, while the Iroquois name, Ohio, or Beautiful
River, was applied to the main stream. The fort alluded to was prob-
ably Vineennes.
" Shawanoe, or, as now written, Shawnee. They were called by the
French, Chawanon. They were the most restless of the Algonquin tribes,
having been for a longer or shorter period in almost all the Atlantic
colonies, from Florida to New York, and bands of them accompanied
La Salle and Tonti up and down the Mississippi, one of them even shar-
ing the death of the great explorer.
12 Venango. Fort Venango was at the confluence of French I
and the Alleghany, on the left; and another French fort, Machault, lay
on the right. The ruins of Fort Venango cover a space of about four
hundred feet, and the ramparts are eight feet high.
220 DIAItY OF WASHINGTON.
should not get to the near fort in less than five or six
night's sleep, good travelling. When he went to the fort,
he said he was received in a very stern manner by the late
commander, who asked him very abruptly what he had
come about, and to declare his business, which he said he
did in the following speech : —
"Fathers, I am come to tell you your own speeches, what
your own mouths have declared.
"Fathers, you, in former days, set a silver basin before
us, wherein there was the leg of a beaver, and desired all
the nations to come and eat of it, to eat in peace and
plenty, and not to be churlish to one another ; and that if
any such person should be found to be a disturber, I here
lay down by the edge of the dish a rod, which you must
scourge them with ; and if your father should get foolish,
in my old days, I desire you may use it upon me as well
as others.
" Now, fathers, it is you who are the disturbers in this
land, by coming and building your towns, and taking it
away unknown to us, and by force.
" Fathers, we kindled a fire a long time ago at a place
called Montreal, where we desired you to stay, and not to
come and intrude upon our land. I now desire you may
dispatch to that place ; for be it known to you, fathers, that
this is our land, and not yours.
"Fathers, I desire you may hear me in civilness; if not,
we must handle that rod which was laid down for the use
of the obstreperous. If you had come in a peaceable man-
ner, like our brothers the English, we would not have been
against your trading with us as they do ; but to come, fa-
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 221
thers, and build houses upon our land, and to take it by
force, is what we cannot submit to.
"Fathers, both you and the English are white, we live in
a country between ; therefore, the land belongs to neither
one nor the other. But the Great Being above allowed it
to be a place of residence for us ; so, fathers, I desire you
to withdraw, as I have done our brothers the English ; for
I will keep you at arm's length. I lay this down as a trial
for both, to see which will have the greatest regard to it,
and that side we will stand by, and make equal sharers with
us. Our brothers, the English, have heard this, and I come
now to tell it to you ; for I am not afraid to discharge you
off this land."
This, he said, was the substance of what he spoke to the
general, who made this reply : —
" Now, my child, I have heard your speech ; you spoke
first, but it is my time to speak now. Where is my wam-
pum that you took away with the marks of towns on it .'
This wampum I do not know, which you have discharged
me off the land with ; but you need not put yourself to the
trouble of speaking, for I will not hear you. I am not
afraid of flies or musquitoes, for Indians are such as those ;
I tell you down that river I will go, and build upon it, ac-
cording to my command. If the river was blocked up, I
have forces sufficient to burst it open, and tread under my
feet all that stand in opposition, together with their alli-
ances; for my force is as the sand upon the sea shore ; there-
fore, here is your wampum ; I sling it at you. Child, you
talk foolish ; you say this land belongs to you, but there is
not the black of my nail yours. I saw that land sooner
222 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
than you did ; before the Shannoahs and you were at war.
Lead was the man who went down and took possession of
that river. It is my land, and I will have it, let who will
stand up for, or say against it. I will buy and sell with the
English (mockingly.) If people will be ruled by me, they
may expect kindness, but not else."
The Half-King told me he had inquired of the general
after two Englishmen who were made prisoners, and re-
ceived this answer : —
" Child, you think it a very great hardship that I made
prisoners of those two people at Venango. Don't you con-
cern yourself with it ; we took and carried them to Canada,
to get intelligence of what the English were doing in Vir-
ginia."
He informed me that they had built two forts, one on
Lake Erie,13 and another on French Creek, near a small
lake,14 about fifteen miles asunder, and a large wagon-road
between. They are both built after the same model, but
different in size ; that on the lake the largest. He gave
me a plan of them of his own drawing.
The Indians inquired very particularly after their broth-
ers in Carolina gaol.
They also asked what sort of a boy it was who was taken
from the South Branch ; for they were told by some Indians
13 Fort Presquelsle, lay near the site of the present Erie, and exten-
sive earthworks can still be seen. >
14 Fort Le Boeuf, or Fort de la Riviere aux Bceuf's. See Washington's
description of it under date of December 13th. It stood on the banks
of Lake Le Boeuf, about fourteen miles southeast of Erie, near the pres-
ent village of Waterford, where its ruins are still to be seen.
TOUK TO THE OHIO. 223
that a party of French Indians had carried a white boy by
Kuskuska Town, towards the lakes.
November 26th.
We met in council at the long-house about nine o'clock,
where I spoke to them as follows: —
"Brothers, I have called you together in council, by
order of your brother, the Governor of Virginia, to acquaint
you that T am sent with all possible dispatch to visit and
deliver a letter to the French commandant of very great
importance to your brothers the English ; and I dare say to
you, their friends and allies.
" I was desired, brothers, by your brother, the Governor,
to call upon you, the sachems of the nations, to inform you
of it, and to ask your advice and assistance to proceed the
nearest and best road to the French. You see, brothers, I
have gotten thus far on my journey.
" His Honour likewise desired me to apply to you for
some of your young men to conduct and provide provisions
for us on our way, and be a safeguard against those French
Indians who have taken up the hatchet against us. I have
spoken thus particularly to you, brothers, because his Hon-
our, our Governor, treats you as good friends and allies, and
holds you in great esteem. To confirm what I have said, I
give you this string of wampum."
After they had considered for some time on the above
discourse, the Half-King got up and spoke : —
"Now, my brother, in regard to what my brother the
Governor had desired of me, I return you this answer: —
"I rely upon you as a brother ought to do, as you say we
224 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
are brothers, and one people. We shall put heart in hand
and speak to our fathers, the French, concerning the speech
they made to me ; and you may depend that we will en-
deavour to be your guard.
"Brother, as you have asked my advice, I hope you will
be ruled by it, and stay until I can provide a company to
go with you. The French speech-belt is not here ; I have
to go for it to my hunting-cabin. Likewise, the people
whom I have ordered in are not yet come, and cannot until
the third night from this ; until which time, brother, I must
beg you to stay.
" I intend to send the guard of Mingoes,'* Shannoahs, and
Delawares,16 that our brothers may see the love and loyalty
we bear them."
15 Mingoes. The Mengwe, Minquas, or Mingoes, were properly the
Andastes or Gandastogues, the Indians of Conestoga, on the Susque-
hanna, known by the former name to the Algonquins, and their allies,
the Dutch and Swedes, and by the former to the Five Nations and the
English of New York. The Marylanders knew them as the Susqne-
hannas. Upon their reduction by the Five Nations in 1672 after a long
war, the Andastes were to a great extent mingled with their conquer-
ors, and a party removing to the Ohio, commonly called Mingoes, was
thus made up, of Iroquois and Mingoes. The celebrated Logan was a
real Andaste. Many treat Mingo as synonymous with Mohawk or Iro-
quois, but erroneously.
18 Delawares. This well-known tribe was a small Algonquin nation,
calling itself Lenni Lenape. They were early subdued by the Five
Nations, and seemed to have acquired the considerable historic place
they occupy more from the fertility of their traditionary mind than from
important deeds in war or peace. In our earlier histories they assume
gigantic importance, and their migrations and wars are detailed at
length. These are, however, very doubtful. That they are a branch of
the Illinois, emigrating to the east, seems probable.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 225
As I had orders to make all possible dispatch, and wait-
ing here was very contrary to my inclination, I thanked
him in the most suitable manner I could, and told him that
my business required the greatest expedition, and would
not admit of that delay. He was not well pleased thai I
should offer to go before the time be had appointed, and
told me that he could not consent to our going without ,t
guard, for fear some accident should befall us, and draw a
reflection upon him. Besides, said he, this is a matter of
no small moment, and must not be entered into without due
consideration ; for I intend to deliver up the French speech-
belt, and make the Shannoahs and Delawares do the same.
And accordingly he gave orders to King Shingiss, who was
present, to attend on Wednesday night with the wampum ;
and two men of their nation to be in readiness to set out
with us the next morning. As I found it was impossible to
get off without affronting them in the most egregious man-
ner, I consented to stay.
I gave them back a string of wampum which I met with
at Mr. Frazier's, and which they sent with a speech to his
Honour the Governor, to inform him that three nations of
French Indians, — namely, Chippewas,1;Ottawas,13 and Orun-
" The Chippewas were first known to the French, as Otchiboues,
answering to the modern form Ojibwa, or Otchipwe. They are an Al-
gonquin tribe, whose residence was at Sault Ste. Marie, whence the
later French called them Sautenx, men of the Sault. Their language,
traditions, and customs, have been more thoroughly studied than those
of any other of our Indian tribes.
18 The Ottawas were another Algonquin tribe found on Lake Onta-
rio. They formed, when first known, two branches, the Kiskakons
and Sinagoes, and were remarkably errant. Their fires were lighted at
10*
226 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
daks,19 had taken up the hatchet against the English ; and
desired them to repeat it over again. But this they post-
poned doing until they met in full council with the Shan-
noah and Delaware chiefs.
November 27th.
Runners were dispatched very early for the Shannoab^
chiefs. The Half-King set out himself to fetch the French
speech -belt from his hunting-cabin.
November 28th.
He returned this evening, and came with Monacatoocha
and two other sachems to my tent, and begged (as they had
complied with his Honour the Governor's request, in pro-
viding men, &c.) to know on what business we were going
to the French. This was a question I had all along expect-
ed, and had provided as satisfactory answers as I could ;
which allayed their curiosity a little.
Monacatoocha informed me that an Indian from Venan-
go brought news a few days ago that the French had
different times from Chagoimegon to Detroit. They are now chiefly
on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan. Their language bears a very
close resemblance to the Ojibwa.
19 The Orundaks are evidently the Adirondacks of New York writers,
the Algonquin of the French. Adirondack is a Mohawk term, mean-
ing, they eat trees, from karonta, tree; and iraks, he eats. A small village
of them still exists at the Lake of the Two Mountains, Canada East.
They were hereditary enemies of the Five Nations, and their alliance
with the Hurons drew the latter into a war, in which both were utter-
ly prostrated, by the great confederation of New York.
TOUR TO TIIK OHIO.
227
called all the Mingoes, Delawares, &c, together at that
place; and told them that they intended to have been
down the river this fall, but the waters were growing cold,
and the winter advancing, which obliged them to go into
quarters ; but that they might assuredly expect them in the
spring with a far greater number ; and desired that they
might be quite passive, and not intermeddle unless they had
a mind to draw all their force upon them ; for that they
expected to fight the English three years (as they supposed
there would be some attempts made to stop them), in which
time they should conquer. But that if they should prove equal-
ly strong, they and the English would join to cut them all
off, and divide the land between them ; that though they
had lost their general and some few of their soldiers, yet
there were men enough to reinforce them, and make them
masters of the Ohio.
This speech, he said, was delivered to them by one Cap-
tain Joncaire,20 their interpreter-in-chief, living at Venango,
and a man of note in the army.
*> No name figures more extensively in our border history than the
Sieur de Joncaire, father and son, of whom, however, comparatively
little is known. The former had been a prisoner in the hands of the
Senecas, and adopted by them as early as 1700, and in that year they
asked that he should go to their canton to arrange terms of peace, which
he did with success. In all subsequent transactions with the Iroquois
he plays a conspicuous part, his Indian naturalization making it impos-
sible for the English authorities to obtain his expulsion.-Charlevoix,
Hist. XouvelU France, ii., 244-365. He was apparently the first Euro-
pean who examined the oil springs recently rendered so profitable.
His son, the Joncaire of this diary, continued his father's influence
among the Senecas, till Shirley, when at Oswego, in 1755, induced
them to order him to depart.— Smith's New York (ed. 1830), i., 275.
228 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON.
November 29th.
The Half-King and Monacatoocha came very early, and
begged me to stay one day more ; for notwithstanding they
had used all the diligence in their power, the Shannoah
chiefs had not brought the wampum they ordered, but
would certainly be in to-night; if not, they would delay me
no longer, but would send it after us as soon as they
arrived. When I found them so pressing in their request,
and knew that the returning of wampum was the abolish-
ing of agreements, and giving this up was shaking off all
dependence upon the French, I consented to stay, as I be-
lieved an offence offered at this crisis might be attended
with greater ill consequence than another day's delay.
They also informed me that Shingiss could not get in his
men, and was prevented from coming himself by his wife's
sickness (I believe by fear of the French), but that the
wampum of that nation was lodged with Kustalogo, one of
their chiefs, at Venango.
In the evening, late, they came again, and acquainted me
that the Shannoahs were not yet arrived, but that it should
not retard the prosecution of our journey. He delivered in
my hearing the speech that was to be made to the French
by Jeskakake, one of their old chiefs, which was giving up
the belt the late commandant had asked for, and repeating
nearly the same speech he himself had done before.
He also delivered a string of wampum to this chief, which
was sent by King Shingiss, to be given to Kustalogo, with
orders to repair to the French, and deliver up the wampum.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 229
He likewise gave a very large string of black and white
wampum, which was to be sent up immediately to the Six
Nations, if the French refused to quit the land at this warn-
ing, which was the third and last time, and was the right
of this Jeskakake to deliver.
November 30th.
Last night, the great men assembled at their council
house, to consult further about this journey, and who were
to go ; the result of which was, that only three of their
chiefs, with one of their best hunters, should be our convoy.
The reason they gave for not sending more, after what had
been proposed at council the 26th, was, that a greater
number might give the French suspicions of some bad
design, and cause them to be treated rudely ; but I rather
think they could not get their hunters in.
We set out about nine o'clock with the Half- King, Jes-
kakake, White Thunder, and the Hunter; and travelled on
the road to Venango, where we arrived the 4th of De-
cember, without anything remarkable happening but a
continued series of bad weather.
This is an old Indian town, situated at the mouth of
French Creek, on the Ohio; and lies near north about sixty
miles from the Logstowu, but more than seventy the way
wye were obliged to go.
We found the French colours hoisted at a house from
which they had driven Mr. John Frazier, an English sub-
ject. I immediately repaired to it, to know where the
commander resided. There were three officers, one of
230 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
whom, Captain Joncaire, informed me that he had the
command of the Ohio ; but that there was a general officer
at the near fort, where he advised me to apply for an an-
swer. He invited us to sup with them, and treated us with
the greatest complaisance.
The wine, as they dosed themselves pretty plentifully
with it, soon banished the restraint which at first appeared
in their conversation, and gave a licence to their tongues to
reveal their sentiments more freely.
They told me that it was their absolute design to take
possession of the Ohio, and by G — they would do it ; for
that, although they were sensible the English could raise
two men for their one, yet they knew their motions were
too slow and dilatory to prevent any undertaking of theirs.
They pretend to have an undoubted right to the river from
a discovery made by one La Salle," sixty years ago; and
the rise of this expedition is, to prevent our settling on the
21 La Salle. Robert Cavelier de la Salle, it is known, followed up the
discovery of Marquette and Joliet, and in 16S2 descended the Missis-
sippi to its mouth, which he reached on the 9th of April. He planted
the arms of France, and took possession of the river and all the country
watered by it and its branches. This extended the French claim to the
head waters of the Alleghany and Monongahela. See " The Discovery
and Exploration of the Mississippi," and narrative there given. Pierre,
de Margry, a recent French writer, asserts that in 1670-1, La Salle de-
scended the Ohio to the Mississippi (Dussieux, Canada, p. 37); but the
proof has not been given, and not improbably is a delusion, as no notice
of the fact appears in any document of the time, and the friends of La
Salle would not be likely to omit an expedition giving him a clear pri-
ority to the discovery of the Mississippi, nor would La Salle, having a
post at Niagara, overlook the advantage of following the same course to
reach the mouth of the Mississippi.
TOUR TO THK OHIO. 231
river or waters of it, as they heard of some families moving
out in order thereto. From the best intelligence I could
get, there have been fifteen hundred men on this side On-
tario Lake. But upon the death of the general, all were
recalled, to about six or seven hundred, who were left to
garrison four forts, one hundred and fifty, or thereabout, in
each. The first of them is on French Creek," near a small
lake, about sixty miles from Venango, near north north-
west ; the next lies on Lake Erie,'3 where the greater part
of their stores are kept, about fifteen miles from the other ;
from this it is one hundred and twenty miles to the carry-
ing-place, at the Falls of Lake Erie, where there is a small
fort,'4 at which they lodge their goods in bringing them
from Montreal, the place from whence all their stores are
brought The next fort lies about twenty miles from this,
on Ontario Lake." Between this fort and Montreal, there
are three others, the first of which86 is nearly opposite to the
English fort Oswego. From the fort on Lake Erie to Mon-
treal is about six hundred miles, which, they say, requires
no more (if good weather) than four weeks' voyage, if they
go in barks or large vessels, so that they may cross the
lake ; but if they come in canoes, it will require five or six
weeks, for they are obliged to keep under the shore.
DECEMBER 5th.
Rained excessively all day, which prevented our travel-
's Fort Le Boeuf. 23 Fort Presque Isle. M Fort N:
85 Fort Toronto. »» Fort Frontcuac.
232 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
ling. Captain Joncaire sent for the Half-King, as be had
but just heard that he came with me. He affected to be
much concerned that I did not make free to bring them in
before. I excused it in the best manner of which I was
capable, and told him, I did not think their company agree-
able, as I had heard him say a good deal in dispraise of In-
dians in general ; but another motive prevented me from
bringing them into his company ; I knew that he was an
interpreter, and a person of very great influence among the
Indians, and had lately used all possible means to draw them
over to his interest ; therefore I was desirous of giving him
no opportunity that could be avoided.
When they came in there was great pleasure expressed
at seeing them. He wondered how they could be so near
without coming to visit him, made several trifling presents,
and applied liquor so fast that they were soon rendered in-
capable of the business they came about, notwithstanding
the caution which was given.'27
December 6th.
The Half-King came to my tent quite sober, and insisted
very much that I should stay and hear what he had to say
21 Gist, in Lis journal, here notes : " Our Indians were in council with
the Delawares, who lived under the French colors, and ordered them
to deliver up to the French the belt with the marks of the four towns,
according to the desire of King Shingiss. But the chief of these Dela-
wares said: 'It was true, King Shingiss was a great man, but he had
sent no speech, and,' said he, 'I cannot pretend to make a speech for
a king.' So our Indians could not prevail with thorn to deliver their
belt ; but the Half-King did deliver his belt as he had determined."
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 233
to the French. I fain would have prevented him from
speaking anything until he came to the commandant, but
could not prevail. He told me that at this place a council
fire was kindled, where all their business with these people
was to be transacted, and that the management of the In-
dian affairs was left solely to Monsieur Joncaire. As I was
desirous of knowing the issue of this, I agreed to stay ; but
sent our horses a little way up French Creek, to raft over
and encamp, which I knew would make it near night.
About ten o'clock they met in council. The King spoke
much the same as he had before done to the general ; and
offered the French speech-belt which had before been de-
manded, with the marks of four towns on it, which Mon-
sieur Joncaire refused to receive, but desired him to carry it
to the fort to the commander.
December 7th.
Monsieur La Force, commissary of the French stores, and
three other soldiers, came over to accompany us up. We
found it extremely difficult to get the Indians off to-day, as
every stratagem had been used to prevent their going up
with me. I had last night left John Davidson (the Indian
interpreter), whom I had brought with me from town, and
strictly charged him not to be out of their company, as I
could nut get them over to my tent ; for they had some
business with Kustalogo, chiefly to know why he did not
deliver up the French speech-belt which he had in keep-
ing ; but I was obliged to send Mr. Gist over to-day to fetch
them, which he did with great persuasion.
234 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
At twelve o clock, we set out for the fort, and were pre-
vented arriving there until the 11th by excessive rains,
snows, and bad travelling through many mires and swamps ;
these we were obliged to pass to avoid crossing the creek,
which was impassable, either by fording or rafting, the
water was so high and rapid.
We passed over much good land since we left Venango,
and through several extensive and very rich meadows, one
of which, I believe, was nearly four miles in length, and
considerably wide in some places.
December 12th.
1 prepared early to wait upon the commander, and was
received and conducted to him by the second officer in
command. I acquainted him with my business, and offered
him my commission and letter ; both of which he desired
me to keep until the arrival of Monsieur Reparti, captain at
the next fort, who was sent for and expected every hour.
This commander is a knight of the military order of St.
Louis, and named Legardeur de St. Pierre.28 He is an eld-
2S Le Gardeur de St. Pierre. The family of Le Gardeur de Repenti-
gny descended from Pierre Le Gardeur, Sieur de Repentigny, one of the
earliest settlers near Quebec. Mr. Ferland, in his " Notes on the Reg-
ister of Quebec," p. 53, remarks that members of this family, and that
of Charles Le Gardeur de Tilly took part in every war of New France,
from Louisiana to Acadia and Newfoundland. Pie adds, on p. 57, that
both have completely disappeared from Canada. The officer who suc-
ceeded Marin signs in the Register, Le Gardeur de Repentigny, but in
the letter to Dinwiddie, Le Gardeur de St Pierre, and is apparently the
one known as M. de St. Pierre, who was killed at Bloody Pond.
The younger one, styled M. de Repentigny, would seem, however, to be
intended by the M. Reparti of Washington's Diary.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 235
erly gentleman, and has much the air of a soldier. He was
sent over to take the command immediately upon the death
of the late general, and arrived here about seven days be-
fore me.
At two o'clock, the gentleman who was sent for arrived,
when I offered the letter, etc., again, which they received,
and adjourned into a private apartment for the captain to
translate, who understood a little English. After he had
done it, the commander desired I would walk in and bring
my interpreter to peruse and correct it ; which I did.
December 13th.
The chief officers retired to hold a council of war, which
gave me an opportunity of taking the dimensions of the
fort, and making what observations I could.
It is situated on the south or west fork of French Creek,
near the water ; and is almost surrounded by the creek, and
a small branch of it, which form a kind of island. Four
houses compose the sides. The bastions are made of piles
driven into the ground, standing more than twelve feet
above it, and sharp at top, with port-holes cut for cannon,
and loop-holes for the small arms to fire through. There
are eight six-pounds pieces mounted in each bastion, and
one piece of four pounds before the gate. In the bastions
are a guard-house, chapel, doctor's lodging, and the com-
mander's private store ; round which are laid platforms for
the cannon and men to stand on. There are several bar-
racks without the fort, for the soldiers' dwellings, covered,
some with bark and some with boards made chiefly of logs.
236 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
There are also several other houses, such as stables, smith s
shop, &c.
I could get no certain account of the number of men
here ; but, according to the best judgment I could form,
there are a hundred, exclusive of officers, of whom there are
many. I also gave orders to the people who were with me
to take an exact account of the canoes, which were hauled
up to convey their forces down in the spring. This they
did, and told fifty of birch bark, and a hundred and seventy
of pine, besides many others, which were blocked out, in
readiness for being made.
December 14th.
As the snow increased very fast, and our horses daily be-
came weaker, I sent them off unloaded, under the care of
Barnaby Currin and two others, to make all convenient dis-
patch to Venango, and there to wait our arrival, if there
was a prospect of the river's freezing ; if not, then to con-
tinue down to Shannopin's Town, at the Fork of the Ohio,
and there to wait until we came to cross the Allegany, in-
tending myself to go down by water, as I had the offer of
a canoe or two.
As I found many plots concerted to retard the Indians'
business, and prevent their returning with me, I endeavour-
ed all that lay in my power to frustrate their schemes, and
hurried them on to execute their intended design. They
accordingly pressed for admittance this evening, which at
length was granted them, privately, to the commander and
one or two other officers. The Half-King told me that he
offered the wampum to the commander, who evaded taking
TOUK TO THE OHIO. 237
it, and made many fair promises of love and friendship ;
said he wanted to live in peace, and trade amicably with
them, as a proof of which, he would send some goods imme-
diately down to the Logstown for them. But I rather think
the design of that is to bring away all our straggling tra-
ders they meet with, as I privately understood they intend-
ed to carry an officer with them. And what rather con-
firms this opinion, I was inquiring of the commander by
what authority he had made prisoners of several of our En-
glish subjects. He told me that the country belonged to
them ; that no Englishman had a right to trade upon those
waters ; and that he had orders to make every person pris-
oner who attempted it on the Ohio, or the waters of it.
I inquired of Captain Reparti about the boy that was car-
ried by this place, as it was done while the command de-
volved on him, between the death of the late general ami
the arrival of the present. He acknowledged that a boy
had been carried past; and that the Indians had two or
three white men's scalps, (I was told by some of the Indians
at Venango, eight,) but pretended to have forgotten the
name of the place where the boy came from, and all the par-
ticular facts, though he had questioned him for some hours
as they were carrying him past. I likewise inquired what
they had done with John Trotter and James M'Clocklan, two
Pennsylvania traders, whom they had taken with all their
goods. They told me that they had been sent to Canada,
but were now returned home.
This evening I received an answer to his Honour the
Governor's letter from the commandant.
238 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
December 15th.
The commandant ordered a plentiful store of liquor and
provision to be put on board our canoes, and appeared to
be extremely complaisant, though he was exerting every
artifice which he could invent to set our Indians at variance
with us, to prevent their going until after our departure ;
presents, rewards, and everything which could be suggested
by him or his officers. I cannot say that ever in my life I
suffered so much anxiety as I did in this affair. I saw that
every stratagem which the most fruitful brain could invent
was practised to win the Half-King to their interest ; and
that leaving him there was giving them the opportunity
they aimed at. I went to the Half-King and pressed him
in the strongest terms to go ; he told me that the comman-
dant would not discharge him until the morning. I then
went to the commandant, and desired him to do their busi-
ness, and complained of ill treatment ; for keeping them, as
they were part of my company, was detaining me. This
he promised not to do, but to forward my journey as much
as he could. He protested he did not keep them, but was
ignorant of the cause of their stay ; though I soon found it
out. He had promised them a present of guns, if they
would wait until the morning. As I was very much press-
ed by the Indians to wait this day for them, I consented,
on a promise that nothing should hinder them in the
morning.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 239
December 16th.
The French were not slack in their inventions to keep
the Indians this day also. But as they were obliged,
according to promise, to give the present, they then en-
deavoured to try the power of liquor, which I doubt not
would have prevailed at any other time than this ; but
I urged and insisted with the King so closely upon his
word that he refrained, and set off with us as he had en-
gaged.
We had a tedious and very fatiguing passage down the
creek. Several times Ave had liked to have been staved
against rocks ; and many times were obliged all hands to
get out and remain in the water half an hour or more, get-
ting over the shoals. At one place, the ice had lodged and
made it impassable by water ; we were therefore obliged to
carry our canoe across the neck of land, a quarter of a mile
over. We did not reach Venango until the 22nd, where
we met with our horses.
This creek is extremely crooked. I dare say the distance
between the fort and Venango cannot be less than one hun-
dred and thirty miles, to follow the meanders.
December 23d.
When I got things ready to set off, I sent for the Half-
King to know whether he intended to go with us or by
water. He told me that White Thunder had hurt himself
much, and was sick and unable to walk ; therefore he was
240 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
obliged to carry him down in a canoe. As I found be in
tended to stay here a day or two, and knew that Monsieur
Joncaire would employ every scheme to set him against
the English, as be bad before done, I told him I hoped he
would guard against his flattery, and let no fine speeches
influence him in their favour. He desired I might not be
concerned, for he knew the French too well for anything
to engage him in their favour ; and that though he could
not go down with us, he yet would endeavour to meet at
the Fork with Joseph Campbell, to deliver a speech for me
to carry to his Honour the Governor. He told me he
would order the Young Hunter to attend us, and get pro-
visions, &c., if wanted.
Our horses were now so weak and feeble, and the bag-
gage so heavy (as we were obliged to provide all the ne-
cessaries which the journey would require), that we doubted
much their performing it. Therefore, myself and others,
except the drivers, who were obliged to ride, gave up our
horses for packs, to assist along with the baggage. I put
myself in an Indian walking-dress, and continued with them
three days, until I found there was no probability of their
getting home in any reasonable time. The horses became
less able to travel every day ; the cold increased very fast ;
and the roads were becoming much worse by a deep snow,
continually freezing ; therefore, as I was uneasy to get back,
to make report of my proceedings to his Honour the Gov-
ernor, I determined to prosecute my journey the nearest
way through the woods on foot.
Accordingly, I left Mr. Vanbraam in charge of our bag-
gage, with money and directions to provide necessaries from
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 241
place to place for themselves and horses, and to make the
most convenient dispatch in travelling.
December 26th.
I took my necessary papers, pnlled off my clothes, and
tied myself up in a watch-coat. Then, with gun in hand
and pack on my back, in which were my papers and pro-
visions, I set out with Mr. Gist, fitted in the same manner,
on "Wednesday, the 26th.S9 The day following, just after
39 Gist opposed Washington's attempting this journey on foot, and
his journal here heing more full and explicit as to his Washington's
sufferings than his own Diary, an extract will not be uninteresting: " I
was unwilling he should undertake such a travel, who had never been
used to walking before this time. But as he insisted on it, we set out
with our packs, like Indians, and travelled eighteen miles. That night
we lodged at an Indian cabin, and the major was much fatigued. It
was very cold. All the small runs were frozen, so that we could hard-
ly get water to drink.
" Thursday, 27th. — We rose early in the morning, and set out about
two o'clock. Got to Murdering Town, on the southeast Fork of Beaver
Creek. Here we met with an Indian, whom I thought I had seen at
Joneaire's, at Venango, when on our journey up to the French fort.
This fellow called me by my Indian name, and pretended to be glad to
see me. He asked us several questions, as, how we came to travel on
foot, when we left Venango, where we parted with our horses, and
when they would be there. Major Washington insisted on travelling
the nearest way to the forks of the Alleghany. We asked the Indian
if he could go with us, and show us the nearest way. The Indian
seemed very glad and ready to go with us. Upon which, we set out,
and the Indian took the major's pack. We travelled very briskly for
eight or ten miles, when the major's feet grew sore., and he very weary ;
and the Indian steered too much northeastwardly.
"The major desired to encamp, on which the Indian asked to carry
his gun. But he refused that, and then the Indian grew churlish, and
11
242 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
we had passed a place called Murdering Town (where we
intended to quit the path and steer across the country for
Shannopin's Town), we fell in with a party of French In-
dians, who had lain in wait for us. One of them fired at
Mr. Gist or me, not fifteen steps off, but fortunately missed.
pressed us to keep on, telling us that there were Ottawa Indians in
these woods, and that they would scalp us if we lay out ; but to go to
his cabin, and we should be safe. I thought very ill of the fellow, but
did not care to let the major know I mistrusted him. But soon he mis-
trusted him as much as I. He said he could hear a gun to his cabin,
and steered us more northwardly. We grew uneasy; and then he said
that two whoops might be heard to his cabin. We went two miles
further. Then the major said he would stay at the next water, and we
desired the Indian to stop at the next water. But before we came to
water, we came to a clear meadow. It was very light and there was*
snow on the ground. The Indian made a stop and turned about. The
major saw him point his gun towards us and fire. Said the major ' Are
you shot?' ' No,' said I. Upon this, the Indian ran forward to a big
standing white oak, and went to loading his gun ; but we were soon
with him. I would have killed him, but the major would not suffer me
to kill him.
" We let him charge his gun. We found he put in a ball. Then we
took care of him. The major or I always stood by the guns. We made
the Indian make a fire for us by a little run, as if we intended to sleep
there. I said to the major, ' As you will not have him killed we must
get him away, and then we must travel all night.' Upon this I said to
the Indian, ' I suppose yon were lost and fired your gun.' He said
he knew the way to his cabin, and that it was but a little way. ' Well,'
said I, ' do you go home ; and as we are much tired, we will follow
your track in the morning ; and here is a cake of bread for you, and
you must give us meat in the morning.' He was glad to get away. I
followed him, and listened until he was fairly out of the way. Then
we set out about half a mile, when we made a fire, set our compass and
fixed our course, and travelled all night. In the morning we were at
the head of Piney Creek."
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 243
We took this fellow into custody, and kept him till aboul
nine o'clock at night, then let him go, and walked all the
remaining part of the night without making any stop, that
we might get the start so far as to be out of the reach of
their pursuit the next day, since we were well assured they
would follow our track as soon as it was light. The next
day we continued travelling until quite dark, and got to the
river about two miles above Shannopin's. We expected to
have found the river frozen, but it was not, only about fifty
yards from each shore. The ice, I suppose, had broken up
above, for it was driving in vast quantities.
There was no way for getting over but on a raft, which
we set about with but one poor hatchet, and finished just
after sun-setting. This was a whole day's work ; we next
got it launched, then went on board of it and set off; but
before we were half way over, we were jammed in the ice
in such a manner that we expected every moment our raft
to sink, and ourselves to perish. I put out my setting-pole
to try to stop the raft, that the ice might pass by, when the
rapidity of the stream threw it with so much violence
against the pole that it jerked me out into ten feet water ;
but I fortunately saved myself by catching hold of one of
the raft-logs. Notwithstanding all our efforts, we could uot
get to either shore, but were obliged, as we were near an
island, to quit our raft and make to it.
The cold was so extremely severe that Mr. Gist had all
his fingers and some of his toes frozen ; and the water was
shut up so hard that we found no difficulty in getting off
the island on the ice in the morning, and went to Mr. Fra-
zier's. We met here with twenty warriors, who were going
244 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
to the southward to war ; but coming to a place on the head
Great Kenhawa, where they found seven people killed and
scalped (all but one woman with very light hair), they
turned about and ran back, for fear the inhabitants should
rise and take them as the authors of the murder. They
report that the bodies were lying about the house, and some
of them much torn and eaten by the hogs. By the marks
which were left, they say, they were French Indians of the
Ottoway nation who did it.
As we intended to take horses here, and it required some
time to find them, I went up about three miles to the
mouth of Youghiogany, to visit Queen Aliquippa, who
had expressed great concern that we passed her in going
to the fort. I made her a present of a watch-coat and a
bottle of rum, which latter was thought much the better
present of the two.
Tuesday, the 1st of January.
We left Mr. Frazier's house, and arrived at Mr. Gist's, at
Monongahela,30 the 2nd, where I bought a horse and saddle.
The 6th, we met seventeen horses loaded with materials
and stores for a fort at the Fork of the Ohio, and the day
after, some families going out to settle. This day we ar-
rived at Will's Creek, after as fatiguing a journey as it is
possible to conceive, rendered so by excessive bad weather.
30 Monongahela, said to be from the Shawnee Mehmonawangehelak,
Falling-in-bank-river. Alleghany, the name of the other branch of
the Ohio, is Iroquois, and signifies Cold-water.
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 245
From the 1st day of December to the loth, there was but
one day on which it did not rain or snow incessantly ; and
throughout the whole journey we met with nothing but one
continued series of cold, wet weather, which occasioned
very uncomfortable lodgings, especially after we had quit-
ted our tent, which was some screen from the inclemency
of it.
On the 11th, I got to Belvoir, where I stopped one day
to take necessary rest, and then set out and arrived in Wil-
liamsburg the 16th, when I waited upon his Honour the
Governor, with the letter I had brought from the French
commandant, and to give an account of the success of my
proceedings. This I beg leave to do by offering the fore-
going narrative, as it contains the most remarkable occur-
rences which happened in my journey.
I hope what has been said will be sufficient to make
your Honour satisfied with my conduct, for that was my
aim in undertaking the journey, and chief study throughout
the prosecution of it.
246 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
Letter op Governor Dinwiddie of Virginia to the
French Commandant on the Ohio.
Sir : — The lands upon the river Ohio, in the western
parts of the Colony of Virginia, are so notoriously known
to be the property of the Crown of Great Britain, that it is
a matter of equal concern and surprise to me to hear that
a body of French forces are erecting fortresses and making
settlements upon that river, within his Majesty's dominions.
The many and repeated complaints I have received of these
acts of hostility, lay me under the necessity of sending, in
the name of the king, my master, the bearer hereof, George
Washington, Esq., one of the adjutants-general of the forces
of this dominion ; to complain to you of the encroachments
thus made, and of the injuries done to the subjects of Great
Britain, in violation of the law of nations, and the treaties
now subsisting between the two crowns. If these facts be
true, and you think fit to justify your proceedings, I must
desire you to acquaint me by whose authority and instruc-
tions, you have lately marched from Canada with an armed
force, and invaded the King of Great Britain's territories,
in the manner complained of; that according to the pur-
pose and resolution of your answer, I may act agreeably to
the commission I am honored with, from the king my mas-
ter. However, Sir, in obedience to my instructions, it be-
comes my duty to require your peaceable departure ; and
TOUR TO THE OHIO. 247
that you will forbear prosecuting a purpose so interruptive
of the harmony and good understanding which his Majesty
is desirous to continue and cultivate with the most Chris-
tian king, <fcc.
Robert Dinwiddie.
Reply of Le Gardeur de St. Pierre de Repentigny,
Commander of the French Forces on the Ohio, to
Governor Dinwiddie of Virginia.
Sir : — As I have the honor of commanding here in chief,
Mr. Washington delivered to me the letter which you wrote
to the commander of the French troops. I should have
been glad, that you had given him orders, or that he had
been inclined, to proceed to Canada to see our general ; to
whom it better belongs than to me, to set forth the evi-
dence and the reality of the rights of the King, my master,
to the lands situated along the River Ohio, and to contest
the pretensions of the king of Great Britain thereto. I shall
transmit your letter to the Marquis Du Quesne. His an-
swer will be a law to me. And if he shall order me to
communicate it to you, Sir, you may be assured, I shall not
fail to dispatch it forthwith to you. As to the summons
you send me to retire ; I do not think myself obliged to
obey it. Whatever may be your instructions, I am here by
virtue of the orders of my general ; and, 1 entreat you, Sir,
not to doubt one moment, but that I am determined to con
2. J>
248 DIARY OF WASHINGTON.
form myself to them with all the exactness and resolution
which can be expected from the best officer. I do not know
that in the progress of this campaign, any thing has passed,
which can be reputed an act of hostility, or that is contrary
to the treaties which subsist between the two crowns; the con-
tinuation whereof as much interesteth, and is as pleasing to us,
as to the English. Had you been pleased, Sir, to have de-
scended to particularize the facts, which occasioned your
complaint, I should have had the honor of answering you
in the fullest, and, I am persuaded, in the most satisfactory
manner, &c.
Le Gardeur i>e St. Pierre.
From the Fort sur la Riviere au Bceuf,
December 15, 1753.
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