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Full text of "Dining in Chicago"




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Gastronomical 
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LIBRARY OF THE 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS 

AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

IN MEMORY OF 

STEWART S. HOWE 

JOURNALISM CLASS OF 1928 



STEWART S. HOWE FOUNDATION 



917.731 
D84d 



I . H . S . 




DINING IN CHICAGO 



THE JOHN DAY 
INTIMATE GUIDES 



DINING IN NEW YORK 
By BJan James 

ALL ABOUT NEW YORK 
By Rian James 

DINING IN CHICAGO 
By John Drury 

THE BON VOYAGE BOOK 
By ''Old Salt" 



Other volumes in preparation 



DINING 

IN 
CHICAGO 

by John Drury 

with a foreword by 

Carl Sandburg 

and published by 

The John Day Company 

New York 




COPYRIGHT, 193 I, BY JOHN DRURY 



PRINTED IN THE U. S. A. 

FOR THE JOHN DAY COMPANY, INC. 

BY H. WOLFF, NEW YORK 



TO MARION . . . 

The Best Dam' Dinner Companion 
In All Chicago 



ABOUT THE AUTHOR 

John Drury . . . first began his gastronomic adventures in this 
life at Chicago, Illinois, on August 9, 1898 ... in school he was 
terrible in arithmetic but talented in drawing . . . had to quit 
high school to help lift the mortgage oflF the old homestead . . . 
worked in factories, drug stores, stockrooms and department 
stores . . . continued education in Lane Technical Night School, 
studying English composition and French . . . remembers the 
English composition but forgot the French . . . fired from his 
job as clerk in a South Clark Street bookshop because the pro- 
prietor caught him once too often reading Keats . . . worked on 
a farm in the Illinois River valley and quit after a week because 
the plow horses would stop in the middle of a furrow and look 
at him contemptuously . . . later became clerk in book section 
of Marshall Field department store ... at outbreak of World 
War was refused admission to army and navy because of failure 
to meet physical requirements . . . intent on wearing a uniform 
(being Irish), he enlisted in the 11th Regiment, Illinois Na- 
tional Guard, and helped to keep Chicago safe for Democracy 
... in 1 9 1 8 went to New York City to live in Greenwich Vil- 
lage . . . first contact with intimate side of restaurant life gained 
while working as a bus boy in Child's, on Broadway, near Wall 
Street . . . helped edit a literary magazine in the Village . . . 
began to write free verse poetry — but nat because everybody 
else was doing it . . . returned to Chicago and Marshall Field's 
book section . . . reviewed books for Llewellyn Jones, of the 

vii 



Chicago Evening Post . , . went to Los Angeles in 1920 where 
he made his first bow in journalism as copy boy on the Los 
Angeles Record, having been hired by Ted Cook, of ''Cook- 
Coos" fame . . . the third day on the job Ted made him a cub 
reporter, giving him as his first assignment the duty of check- 
ing on the price of eggs . . . two months later he was made 
dramatic and motion picture editor of the Record . . . made 
several expeditions across the border into Mexico, but not for 
alcoholic purposes . . . after getting enough of the City of 
Angels and Hollywood, he returned to Chicago, where he be- 
came a police reporter on the City News Bureau ... his poetry 
began to appear in the "little magazines that died to make verse 
free" ... to New York again (1923) where, after John Farrar 
gave him a free meal at the Yale Club, he shipped as a messman 
(gastronomy, again) aboard a tramp freighter to the east coast 
of South America, visiting Brazil and the Argentine pampas 
. . . back to Chicago again and began reviewing books for Harry 
Hansen, on the Chicago Daily News . . . another sea voyage 
in 1925, this time to London . . . same year saw publication of 
his first book, "Arclight Dusks," a volume of free verse poems 
. . . joined reportorial staff of Chicago Daily News in 1927, 
after which he covered many gang murders . . . second book, 
"Chicago In Seven Days," appeared in 1928, and, since its print- 
ing, he has become a sort of "unofficial guide" to the city . . . 
last summer he made an expedition across the border to Canada, 
for alcoholic purposes ... he smokes a pipe . . . has a talented 
wife . . . and a dog . . . has never lectured to a woman's club 
or over the radio ... his hobby is Chicago . . . Carl Sandburg 
once wrote of him: "John Drury loves Chicago very much. It 
is neither an ethereal nor an ephemeral love that John has for 
the Windy City. John walks, rides and flies over it. He eats and 
sleeps anywhere in it. A thousand cops know him. So do all the 
reporters, and he never gets into trouble." 



VUl 



FOREWORD 

On reading over the text of John Drury's book one is 
not merely persuaded that Chicago is a place to stop for 
more than a sandwich and a cuppa coffee. From page 
to page he hammers home the evidence that cooking skill 
and kitchen science has drifted to Chicago from the 
continents of Asia, Europe, Africa and the archipelagoes 
of the seven seas. The ancient declaration, "Man doth 
not live by bread alone," serves as a literal and material- 
istic text for Drury's rambles. The good eater who is 
proud of his repertoire at the table, who is a little vain 
about his talent at handling a knife and fork for the 
guidance of victuals, must acknowledge that if he 
can't find a place for performance — after listening to 
Drury on when and where to go — something is wrong. 

Of course there are a couple of million people in the 
Windy City who never go into the general run of these 
places. A single course of the food at some of the more 
elaborate emporiums would be a tasty square meal for 
many of these people. 

There are, however, those who would like to eat first 
hither and then yon every day in the week, with no two 
days alike. Also there are the people who have drawn 
extra pay or had a ship come home or made a killing in a 

ix 



crap game. Also there are the folks who get tired of the 
home cooking, the delicatessen, the kitchenette, and 
wish an evening of change. If any of these get sore at 
Drury, that's ingratitude. Those who refuse to thank 
him are ingrates who probably happen to be off their 
feed, as the farmhands say. 

Furthermore, there are the citizens like the present 
writer who have a high batting average and fielding 
average in the one- arm joints where the taxi drivers 
mention *'rusta biff" knowing just whom they are kid- 
ding. These citizens can enjoy reading about where to 
eat and thereafter converse more intelligently about such 
food establishments as have personality, savor, and savoir 
faire. 

Authorities in folk lore credit Chicago with the origin 
of the tale of the two garbage wagon drivers stopping to 
pass the time near a house into which had moved a new 
family. The driver who had in his official capacity 
served them that morning was asked what kind of people 
they were. He replied, "I don't know. All I know is 
they got swell swill." 

Carl Sandburg 



CONTENTS 

Foreword byCARLSANDBURG ix 

Hors d'oeuvre 5 

An Old American Custom 11 

An Old French Custom 19 

Around the Town: 

Thirty-three Gastronomical Locations ... 23 

More Gastronomical Locations 103 

Rialto Tables 107 

Along the Avenue 137 

Around the World 167 

Dining in Bohemia 183 

Americana 199 

Among the Literati 207 

Between Trains 217 

Uptown and Northward 222 

Shopper's Rest 227 

Suburbia 233 

Temples of the Sun-dodgers 242 

The Great Black Way 251 

Wide Open Spaces 257 

Cover Charges and Minimum Charges . . . . 265 

Tipping 267 

Index 269 

xi 



DINING IN CHICAGO 

An Intimate Guide 



? 



HORS D'OEUVRE 

A Few Appetizing Words About the Public 
Tables of the Town 

If you think that Chicago, from a gourmet's point of 
view, is nothing more than a maze of red-hot stands, chili 
parlors, cafeterias, barbecue stalls, one-arm joints, chop 
suey restaurants, counter lunch rooms and all other such 
human filling stations, artistically embellished with bullet 
holes, you're as mistaken as Columbus was when he 
started out on his trip to India the wrong way. 

Engage in an earnest trip of exploration about the 
town and you will find, as with Old Chris, a whole new 
world — a world of epicurean delights that you never 
thought existed in the City of Winds. We will admit, of 
course, that the human filling stations are here and in 
abundance, too, just as they are in New York, New Or- 
leans, or San Francisco; but Chicago, like these other 
cities, can also boast of first-class restaurants that would 
delight the heart and palate of the most fastidious and 
cosmopolitan of gourmets. 

There are many people, especially among those who go 
frequently to London or Paris, who would laugh at the 
idea of such a book as this. "What," we can hear them ex- 
claiming, "dining in Chicago? Why, you canH dine in 
Chicago. When I want to dine I go to Paris!" These well- 
meaning but uninformed persons, it develops, possess a 

5 



very limited knowledge of the restaurants of Chicago and 
of the table delicacies to be found in them. 

It is for the benefit of such haughty innocents, both na- 
tive and otherwise, that this book was written. We will 
show them gastronomical locations that are high up on 
the lists of all knowing epicures; we will point out aroma- 
tic steak houses, boulevard cafes, foreign coffee houses, 
hotel dining rooms, chop houses, sea food establishments, 
roadhouses, tea rooms, bohemian haunts, weinstubes and 
inns — all types and kinds of eating places where foods are 
wholesome, inviting, novel and expertly prepared. Chi- 
cago is full of them if you but know their names and ad- 
dresses. 

For in this very same city, you may sit with sultry-eyed 
Arabs in one of their basement coffee houses and eat aris- 
che mahshi, with baklawa and a demi-tasse of Turkish 
coffee for dessert, while around you the swarthy descend- 
ants of the Bedouins smoke those Oriental water-pipes 
and argue politics in a strange tongue. Or you may prefer 
to dine with actors and actresses who live at the exclusive 
Blackstone Hotel just to say they are stopping there, but 
who sneak off to a hole-in-the-wall tea room next door 
where the meals are good — but inexpensive. 



Similarly, on noisy Wells Street, at the west end of the 
Loop, there is an old German restaurant where million- 
aires, who can afford the most expensive of tenderloins, 
come for Hamburger steak . . . On the other hand, the 
most appetizing tenderloin steak we've ever tasted, in this 
city where steaks come from, was in an obscure Rou- 

6 



manian restaurant among the suffocating tenements of 
the west side "Valley." 



You don't have to go to Prunier's in Paris for bouilla- 
baisse — that famed Mediterranean fish stew. We have it 
right here in Chicago — and as skillfully prepared and deli- 
cious as that which they serve in Gay Paree. You will find 
it on the menu of a dine-and-dance palace on the Rialto — 
of all places — and cooked by a former Prunier chef. Nor 
is it necessary to go to Paris for moules mariniere or es- 
cargots bourguignonne, those other popular French deli- 
cacies; a French restaurant in an old town house on the 
near north side features these items for the knowing epi- 
cure. Another "one flight up" restaurant has been offering 
frogs' legs to Chicago for many years past. 



Chicken bird's nest soup, that queer but tasty concoc- 
tion made from the substance that certain Oriental birds 
use for cementing their nests, awaits you in any of the 
Chinese eating houses of "Chinatown" — as do chicken 
chow mein subgum, fried fresh shrimps and kumquats. 
Caruso's favorite spaghetti restaurant is still doing busi- 
ness in a little brick house across the river on the near 
north side, among frowning warehouses. And in a lovely 
Colonial dining room in the Loop, where the waitresses 
are pretty and college-bred and wear crinolines, you may 
revel in the tastiest of corned beef and cabbage, that pop- 
ular Irish-American dish. 

* * * * 

In a narrow, London-like side street, near the Federal 

7 



Building, you may step back into Thackeray's day by din- 
ing in an old English inn, where pink-coated waiters bring 
out thick mutton chops and plum pudding; and in the 
very heart of the Theatre Sector your palate can feast on 
Mexican chili and hot tamales. Here, too, is a hole-in-the- 
wall eatery known from Broadway to Hollywood for its 
steaks. It is patronized largely by theatrical stars. And 
in a restaurant in South Michigan Boulevard you may 
spend a night in New Orleans, feasting on pompano and 
Creole gumbo and other New Orleans delicacies. 

* * * jf- 

You may celebrate the annual Colchester oyster feast, 
which originated in early Norman days in Colchester, 
England, to mark the official opening of the oyster eating 
season, in the dining room of a Michigan Boulevard hotel; 
you may also celebrate the Passover feast of the Jews by 
much eating of matzos and gefiilte fish in a restaurant 
patronized by Jewish intellectuals and writers in the west 
side Jewish quarter. 

* * ♦ ♦ 

Crepes Suzette as fine as any served in France are to be 
had in Chicago; and those incomparable Italian special- 
ties, veal scallopine and spaghetti with Parmesan cheese, 
are items to be found on the menus of many an obscure 
cafe in "Little Italy;" Swedish smorgasbords tempt you in 
the eating houses of "Herring Lane," as the north side 
Swedish district is called ; and the best waffles in town are 
found in a little Uptown waffle shop. 

* * it * 

Not to forget those familiar American edibles — wheat 
cakes, ham and eggs, pies, strawberry shortcake, red-hots, 

8 



Boston baked beans, roast turkey, sugar-cured ham and 
baked Idaho potatoes — all these you may find most 
appetizing in the many and varied white-tiled lunch 
rooms of "Toothpick Row," in the middle of the Loop. 
Excellent foods are also to be had in most of the restau- 
rants located in railroad terminals and, for the shopper, in 
State Street department stores. 

sfr Sfr *t H" 

up on the north side, in the old German quarter, a 
Bavarian tavern features Sauerbraten and Kartoff elkloesse, 
and German potato pancakes; all the waitresses are blonde 
in a downtown restaurant, which, despite this, serves food 
as good as any in Chicago; writers who are influencing 
contemporary American literature foregather at a "round 
table" in the shadow (and amid the noise) of the Wells 
Street elevated; on Randolph Street is a restaurant 
founded a few years after the Civil War and still serving 
good food; the Mayor and other public oflScials often eat 
in a west side store-front restaurant, turning their backs 
on the dining rooms of the big hotels downtown. 

* * * * 

Russian goluptse, Bohemian roast goose with sauer- 
kraut, Greek lamb chops, Polish beef filet a la Nelson with 
mushrooms, Filipino adobo — foreign and exotic edibles of 
all kinds you may eat in this "melting-pot" of the middle 
west. Too, you may hobnob with the fashionables of the 
town in smart boulevard cafes and hotel dining rooms; 
with long-haired bohemians in the basement eating par- 
lors of "Tower Town"; with actors and actresses on the 
Rialto. You may brush shoulders with college boys and 
boys who don't go to college in the Uptown district; with 

9 



distinguished university professors in Hyde Park; with 
wealthy pork packers and sun-tanned cowpunchers of 
the stockyards; and you may eat chitterhngs among the 
happy-go-lucky colored folks in the ''Blackbelt." 

* * * * 

All these gastronomic adventures, and more, await you 
in the Windy City and are yours if you have the experi- 
mental instincts of the true epicure. In this book, of 
course, we have made no attempt to list all the public 
tables of Chicago, but only those that are outstanding by 
reason of their cuisine, service, setting, prices, clientele 
and traditions. The only thing we regret is not having had 
the opportunity to appraise them according to that other 
standard of the dear dead days — their cellars. 



10 



AN OLD AMERICAN CUSTOM 

Comes now an authority on cocktails who deposes and 
says that cocktail imbibing, that great American indoor 
sport, is of Mexican origin. Discarding the domestic roos- 
ter theory, Harry Craddock, of the Savoy Hotel, London 
(known as the King of the Cocktail Shakers), offers as 
proof of his contention the story of King Axolotl VIII of 
Mexico and the wonderful potion. 

Harry says that over a hundred years ago the old king, 
tired of border skirmishes between his troops and the 
American army, wanted to make peace before he kicked 
the bucket. So he sent an invitation to the American gen- 
eral (whose name Harry apparently doesn't know) to 
come and talk over peace terms at the king's palace. A 
banquet was spread, but before the guests started eating 
the tortillas and hot tamales, a beautiful woman appeared 
bearing a gold cup which contained a special potion 
brewed by her own hands. 

Immediately, there was embarrassment. Who should 
drink first — the king or the American guest of honor? 
The day and Mexican-American relations were saved, 
however, when the beautiful woman took the first sip 
herself. The American general, upon drinking, was loud 

11 



in his praises of both the drink and its purveyor. Being an 
American, he wanted to know who the beautiful dame 
was. 

"That," said King Axolotl (try to pronounce his 
name), "is my daughter, Coctel!" 

"Great," said the American general. "I will see that her 
name is honored forevermore by the American army." 

Presumably, he asked for the recipe of the potion. Coc- 
tel, of course, became "cocktail" after the drink had gone 
the rounds of the army. 

Another noted cocktail authority and shaker, Robert, 
of the American Bar, Casino Municipal, Nice, offers the 
rooster story as being the one most generally accepted. 
This concerns an American innkeeper of the nineteenth 
century who was proud of his daughter and of his big 
prize-fighting rooster. One day the bird disappeared. He 
offered his daughter in marriage to the man who would 
find it. A young cavalry officer brought it back. The inn- 
keeper was highly pleased. He brought out the materials 
for drinks. 

"His daughter," continues Robert, "either by accident 
or from excitement at the sight of her future husband, 
mixed whiskey, vermouth, bitters and ice together. 
Everybody liked this delicious concoction so much that it 
was christened 'cocktail* right on the spot." Robert goes 
on to tell how the cavalry officer told his fellow officers 
about it and soon the whole American army took it up. 

That the cocktail was known over a century ago in 
the United States, and that it was used at that time as a 
vote getter, is shown in the following quotation which 
Robert takes from The Balance, an American magazine, 
under date of May 13, 1806: "Cocktail is a stimulating 

12 



liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and 
bitters — it is vulgarly called bittered sling and is sup- 
posed to be an excellent electioneering potion." 

The American general who promised old King Axolotl 
that his daughter's name would be honored henceforth 
by the American army, seems to have made good his 
promise, for the American army and the cocktail appear 
to have been inseparable ever since. Everyone knows that 
it was the officers of the A. E. F. in France who first in- 
troduced the cocktail into Parisian cafe life. The "cock- 
tail hour" is now a feature of daily routine among the 
bons vivants of the French capital. 

But whatever its origin, cocktail drinking is an old 
American custom. It has been truly said that what wine is 
to a Frenchman, whiskey to an Englishman, beer to a 
German, the cocktail is to the American. It is always taken 
before dinner, and in that respect is similar to the French 
aperitif, or appetizer. Assuming, therefore, that you are 
an American and that you believe in maintaining the cus- 
toms and institutions of your forefathers, we herewith 
submit a few cocktail recipes- — some old, some new — 
which we guarantee will put you in the proper frame of 
mind for an evening's dinner excursion abroad in the 
town. 

CHICAGO COCKTAIL: Fill the mixing glass half full of 
broken ice, add one or two dashes of Angostura Bitters, 
three dashes of Curasao and one-half a gill of Brandy. Stir 
well, strain into cocktail glass; add an olive or cherry, 
squeeze a lemon peel and drop it into the glass, and pour 
a little Champagne on top. Before straining the mixture 
into the cocktail glass, moisten the outside borders of the 
glass with lemon juice and dip into pulverized sugar. 

13 



Robert, of the American Bar at Nice, and formerly of the 
Embassy Club, London, vouches for the Chicago Cock- 
tail — and you'll agree that his vouching is above question. 

SUNSHINE COCKTAIL: To one-sixth gill of Old Tom Gin, 
add one-sixth gill of French Vermouth, one-sixth gill of 
Italian Vermouth, and two dashes of Orange Bitters. Stir 
well, strain into cocktail glass, and squeeze lemon peel on 
top. A favorite of the old Olympia Club in San Francisco 
— and there's a reason. 

THE MARTINI: Into a shaker half -filled with cracked ice, 
pour two-thirds of a wine glass of Gordon Gin, one-half 
wine glass Italian Vermouth, and add a dash of Orange 
Bitters. Shake well, and serve with a piece of orange peel 
or an olive, to each glass. An old standby — as good now as 
it ever was. 

THE STINGER: Simple as pie. To one-half Brandy, add one- 
half Creme de Menthe, shake well and strain into cock- 
tail glass — which is just the way they used to make them 
in days of old. 

THE TICONDEROGA: To one jigger of Dubonnet, add a 
dash of Italian Vermouth, a dash of Grenadine and 
just a touch of lemon. Emil Rutz, manager of the extinct 
Vogelsang's, concocted this — and the Loophounds liked it. 

HORSE'S NECK: Into a large bar glass containing a few lumps 
of ice, insert the spiral of a lemon peel so that one end 
hangs over the rim; add one teaspoonful of powdered 
sugar, one pony of Gin, and fill glass with ginger ale. Uncle 
Charley ought to go for this old-timer in a big way. 

ARMOUR COCKTAIL: Into a mixing glass half -filled with 

14 



shaved ice, pour half a jigger of Sherry, half a jigger of 
Italian Vermouth, three dashes of Orange Bitters; mix 
well, strain into cocktail glasses and add a piece of orange 
peel. Charlie Roe and Jim Schwenck, those two good mix- 
ers, in their home bartender's book, tell us that people 
"Back-o'-the-Yards" used to drink this before breakfast 
and then go out and beat up a policeman, but we think it's 
nothing more than a bracer for old ladies. 

THE BRONX: To one- third Gin, add one- third French Ver- 
mouth, one-third Italian Vermouth, and the juice of a 
quarter of an orange. Ice, shake well, and then note the 
results upon imbibing. 

THE MISSION: To two-thirds Gordon Gin, add one-third 
French Vermouth; stir well and strain into cocktail glass 
into which a stuffed olive has been placed. This was a 
great attraction to the boys at the old Mission Bar in West 
Madison Street before Mr. Volstead appeared. 

THE GARNET: Half fill shaker with chipped ice; to one 
part Gin, add three parts juice of a blood orange, a dash 
of lemon and a dash of maple syrup; shake as usual, strain 
into cocktail glass . . . and hey! hey! The favorite concoc- 
tion of the painter, Fred Biesel — very colorful and exotic. 

CLOVER CLUB SPECIAL: Into a shaker half -filled with 
cracked ice, pour three parts Vicker's London Dry, one 
part fresh cream, one part Grenadine; shake well and 
serve in sauterne glasses. Bertani, former head waiter, made 
the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec famous with this cock- 
tail — which is easy to understand after tasting it. 

C AND C: To one-half Brandy, add one-half Cointreau. No 
limes and don't shake . . . and you'll soon think you are 
aboard a Cunarder, whence it gets its name. 

15 



THE YEGG: To one-third Brandy, add two-thirds Port 
Wine and the yolk of an egg. Sweeten with powdered 
sugar or syrup. "This baby will 'hold you up' no matter 
where you are going," says Judge, Jr. 

SIMPLE MANHATTAN; To two parts Rye Whiskey, add 
one part Italian Vermouth; shake well with fine ice and 
strain into cocktail glasses. As old as the hills and still in 
vogue. 

THE GILBERT: To one jigger of Gordon Gin, add one-half 
jigger of French Vermouth and one-half jigger of Italian 
Vermouth, a touch of Absinthe, and strain into cocktail 
glass. Concocted by Paul Gilbert, of the Chicago Evening 
Post, and a favorite of Ring Lardner, when both rested 
their weary reportorial feet on the brass rail at Stillson's. 

OLD-FASHIONED COCKTAIL: To one glass of Canadian 
Club Whiskey, add four dashes of Angostura Bitters, one 
lump of ice, one tablespoonful of granulated sugar, and 
stir until sugar is dissolved. Serve with a strip of fresh 
pineapple, a slice of orange, and a Maraschino cherry. 

THE PINK LADY: To one jigger of Gin, add orange syrup to 
color, a dash of Apollinaris, and one half a lime. Ice, stir 
well, and serve. Another Paul Gilbert creation, now be- 
come a standard cocktail. Said to be Walter Winchell's 
favorite. 

SILVER FIZZ: One part Gordon Gin, the white of one egg, 
one-half teaspoonful of powdered sugar (or, to taste), 
cracked ice, and enough seltzer. Serve in a tall glass. A 
GOLDEN FIZZ is made the same way, substituting the 
yolk of an egg for the egg white. First rate for a sultry 
evening. 

16 



THE SIDE CAR: To two-thirds Brandy, add one-third Coin- 
treau, and one-half Hme juice . . . and your dinner will be 
topped off nicely. 

ORANGE BRULOT: Take an orange, roll it well on all sides 
with considerable pressure, make two circular incisions in 
skin midway between stem and navel — clear around cir- 
cumference — leaving a strip one-half inch wide in the 
middle. Loosen skin (all excepting middle strip) with end 
of a spoon. Push back skin carefully and turn inside out, 
so that "cups" are formed at both ends of orange. Place 
a cube of sugar in upright cup, pour into it two table- 
spoons of Brandy or Whiskey, touch a lighted match to 
it, and stir until sugar is melted in blue flame. Then drink 
hot . . . and offer a toast to Ferdinand Alciatore, of the 
famed La Louisiane restaurant in New Orleans, where this 
delicious after-dinner cordial originated. 

WHISKEY SOUR: To one jigger of Scotch Whiskey, add the 
juice of half a lemon, one teaspoonful of granulated sugar 
and a twist of lemon peel. Something for the morning 
after. 

THE SWISSESS: To one glass of Absinthe, add one teaspoon- 
ful of Anisette Syrup, and the white of one egg. Shake 
well together, strain into a small wine glass, add a dash 
of seltzer, and serve. Another swell morning after pick- 
me-up. 

And Finally 

THE BROMO SELTZER: Into a large tumbler, put one ta- 
blespoonful of Bromo Seltzer; fill tumbler with soda, then 
pour into another tumbler. Repeat this twice, and rapidly, 
until powder is dissolved, and drink while fizzing. 

17 



AN OLD FRENCH CUSTOM 
— And Another Matter 

Since we are dealing with the subject of civiHzed restau- 
rants for civihzed individuals — and by civilized individ- 
uals we mean those persons who are aware, cultured, cos- 
mopolitan, and gay when gayety is in order (such as your- 
self, or else why would you be reading a book on dining) 
— we come now to an old French custom practised gen- 
erally by civilized people throughout the world in con- 
nection with the art of dining — namely, wine drinking. 

But don't get excited! We're not going to let the cat 
out of the bag. The restaurants included in this book have 
all heard of prohibition and their proprietors conduct 
themselves accordingly. Of course, we're not denying 
that wine and other alcoholic goods are to be found in 
Chicago. Good heavens, no! What do you suppose we've 
had all the shootin' fer? 

With many obscure little restaurants and other similar 
places all over town, and some not so obscure, that have 
about as much respect for the Eighteenth Amendment as 
the eminent Mr. Capone has, it is certain that you ought 
to get a wee bit here and there. But we're sorry we can- 
not help you out on that score. All we can do is to advise 
you to use your own resources, ask around a bit — and 
smoke a Murad if you get turned down. But try again 

19 



some other place. If unsuccessful otherwise, you ought 
at least to find Dago Red. 

In case you're more fortunate, however, and come 
upon a wide assortment of table wines, and you wonder 
why so many different kinds are manufactured, we shall 
take on the role of sommelier, as the French call a wine 
waiter, for the nonce, and try to point out the various 
kinds of wines to drink at mealtime. Remember, we said 
"for the nonce," which relieves us of any implication of 
pretending to be an expert on the subject. But we have 
studied the matter somewhat, or else how could we 
a-noncing go? 

Brillat-Savarin, prince of epicures, says that wine, "the 
most pleasant of drinks, whether we owe it to Noah, who 
planted the vine, or whether it is due to Bacchus, who 
squeezed out the juice of the grape, dates from the in- 
fancy of the world." In modern times, there are more var- 
ieties of wines than Heinz's products, and the secret of 
pleasurable wine drinking is in knowing what vintages 
to sip with what courses. Herewith we print a list of the 
wines most commonly used, and the courses for which 
they are intended. 

Wiih MORS D'OEUVRES, OYSTERS, FISH 

The light foods used for appetizers require light thin wines 
— in other words, white wines. You may make your choice 
of a number of these wines. For example: 



Graves 


(Fairly dry and thin) 


Barsac 


(Intermediate, having more 




flavor) 


Chablis 


(Dry and thin) 




20 



Montrachet 


(Said to be the best of all 




white wines) 


Riesling 


(A popular Alsatian wine) 


Pouilly 


(Thin and somewhat dry) 


Meursault 


(Quite dry) 



With THE MEAT COURSE 

Here we come to the red wines — a Bordeaux, a Burgundy 
or a Rhone. Bordeaux wines are otherwise known as 
"clarets." 

Saint-Julien (A popular Bordeaux red wine) 

Medoc (Fruity and generous) 

Saint-Emilion (Excellent, if sufficiently old) 
Chateau Larose (Light and fruity) 
Hermitage (A strong C6te-du-Rh6ne wine) 

Anjou (Rich, and sweet; from the Loire 

Valley) 
Pauillac (Heavy, generous, and fruity) 

Chambertin (One of the great red Burgundies) 

Beaujolais (Another Burgundy, light and 

fruity) 

With GAME, ROASTS, AND MEATS OF HIGH FLAVOR 
A fine old chateau wine from the Bordeaux region should 
accompany your venison or buffalo. Chateau Lafite and 
Chateau Margaux are especially recommended — if you can 
get them. If not, try some high-grade Burgundy. 

With DESSERT 

Chateau d'Yquem (Rich and sweet and grand) 

With CHEESE 

Connoisseurs will always demand a Burgundy of good 
vintage. 

21 



With ?ASTKY 

Such Sauternes as Chateau Yquem, Suduiraut, or Coutet; 
or a Muscat from Tunis; or a Champagne may be used 
with sweet desserts. 

In the event that you are confused by all these names, 
and have no time to find out what they mean, you may 
simplify matters by ordering a few of the wines which 
are suitable for the entire meal. These vintages are found 
mainly in the white wines, such as Riesling, Barsac, or 
white Bordeaux. Barsac is a good medium wine for a 
medium price and may be chosen for all practical pur- 
poses. Of course, if the cards are stacked against you and 
you have exhausted your Murads in going about, you may 
have to be satisfied with plain ordinary Dago Red. And 
remember that Dago Red, being a very cheap concoction 
parading under the name of wine, is of high alcoholic 
content. So watch your step and don't imbibe too much. 



22 



AROUND THE TOWN 

Thirty-three Gastronomical Locations 
For Epicures and Others 



TIP TOP INN 
A. HieronymuSy Host 

Frankfort-on-the-Main, in southeastern Prussia, goes 
down in history as the birthplace of two great men — J. 
Von Goethe, the poet, and A. Hieronymus, the host. For 
what Goethe is to Kterature, Hieronymus is to epicurean- 
ism in Chicago. We know of no other caterer in Chicago 
who more closely approaches the creative artist than this 
elderly, distinguished founder and host of the historic 
Tip Top Inn. Where else can you find a restaurant offer- 
ing 109 specialites de la maison — original viands created 
by Mr. Hieronymus and his chefs. Turn to the back page 
of his large dinner menu and see them listed! If this isn't 
proof that Mr. A. Hieronymus is as great an artist in 
cookery as was Mr. J. Goethe in iambs, then we'll m.ake a 
meal oflf our words. But "the proof of the pudding is in 
the eating." And so it is. You must eat some of these 
highly original dishes for verification of mine host's repu- 
tation in cookery. 

Let us point out a few of them. Among the oysters (in 
season) are Baked Rockaways a la Hieronymus — a dish 
nothing short of marvelous. So also is the shore stew, con- 
sisting of lobsters, oysters, and shrimps. In the relish col- 

23 



umn there are Lobster Filets Cardinal, Crabmeat Grace 
Louise, and English celery with anchovies — all delicacies 
that live up to the word "relish." Essence of tomato with 
fresh crab and whipped cream heads the list of soups en 
tasse, with mousse of new peas a la Pullman as our second 
choice. 

Getting down to fish and shell fish, we know of noth- 
ing more succulent than the stuffed whitefish with crab- 
meat or the stufifed lobster in shell a la Pullman. As for 
entrees, you will not be making a mistake in ordering 
Boned Grilled Chicken Strasbourg, as thrilling as an air- 
plane ride (but not so uncertain), or in ordering the 
doebird en casserole (for two) , which is worth the $4.00 
you pay for it. 

Not to overlook chafing dishes, mine host offers Mallard 
Duck a la Hieronymus (in season) , for which we would 
gladly pay twice the $5.50 that he modestly charges for 
it; Imperial Sirloin Steak, a sirloin like none other in Chi- 
cago; and Chicken Flakes Kingsbury, a dish that is poetry 
to the palate. And there are other chafing dishes too. 
Among the salads is StuflFed Pear Tip Top; among the des- 
serts are Mussolini Slice, Colonial cup and Omelette Glace 
Surprise; and in the cheeses we suggest Camembert with 
Romaine and Oriental dressing. Special Tip Top drip 
coffee is another creation of the house that you shouldn't 
miss. 

These delightful dishes, which make the Tip Top Inn 
an epicure's paradise, were not created overnight. No, 
they are the result of more than thirty years experience on 
the part of Mr. Hieronymus in watching over the kitch- 
ens of the Tip Top Inn. These specialties have made it a 
landmark of the town, as much an institution as are those 

24 



other familiar landmarks, Marshall Field & Company 
and the Stockyards. 

Here is what Wallace Rice wrote about the Tip Top 
Inn in his chapter on Chicago hotels and restaurants, ap- 
pearing in ''Chicago and Its Makers," by Paul Gilbert and 
Charles Lee Bryson: ''Especially worthy of note because 
it has survived happily and prosperously into the living 
present is the Tip Top Inn, conducted for many years by 
Adolph Hieronymus on the uppermost floors of the Pull- 
man Building. Originally known as the Albion Cafe, it 
was taken over in 1893 by its present proprietor, who was 
an apprentice under two of the greatest chefs the city has 
known, William Thomann, of the Tremont House, and 
Joseph Seil, of the Palmer House." 

During its career, the Tip Top Inn has been the gath- 
ering-place of many of the first families of Chicago as 
well as of notables from the stage, opera and music world. 
Here came such world-famed actors and actresses of the 
past as Lillian Russell, Richard Mansfield, Sir Forbes 
Robertson, Anna Held, and Robert Mantell — and among 
the living, George M. Cohan, DeWolf Hopper, Blanche 
Ring and Richard Carle. The literary critics — Floyd Dell, 
Harry Hansen, and the late Keith Preston — came here too. 

At the present time, everybody who is anybody in 
Chicago has dined at least once in the Tip Top ; but it is 
a particular favorite with such diners-out as Ashton 
Stevens, the drama critic, and his actress-wife, Katherine 
Krug; Arthur Bissel, vice-president of Lyon & Healy 
Company; Fanny Butcher, literary editor of the Chicago 
Tribune; Frederick Stock and Eric De Lamarter, the 
Chicago Symphony Orchestra conductors ; James Keeley, 
official of the Pullman Company; Richard ("Riq") At- 

25 



water, columnist of The Chicagoan; and Colonel A. A. 
Sprague, the civic leader. 

One of the reasons why these interesting people come 
here is found in the many delightful dining rooms of the 
Tip Top Inn — the Dickens Room, like an old English 
inn, with a beamed ceiling, fireplace and sporting prints 
and portraits of Pickwick, Sam Weller and other familiar 
Dickens characters hanging about the walls; the Italian 
Room, quiet, elegant and Neapolitan; the Nursery, with 
its Mother Goose nursery rhymes; and the Black Cat 
Room, with its whimsical feline motifs. And in two of 
these rooms there is music from stringed orchestras. Serv- 
ice at the hands of polite colored waiters is perfection. 

By all means don't miss the Tip Top Inn. And the view 
from the windows overlooking Chicago's lake front is 
grand. 

The Tip Top Inn American 

Michigan Boulevard at Adams 

Open daily and Sundays, 11:30 AM, to 10:00 P.M. 

A la carte and table d^hote luncheons in all rooms. Table 
d'hote dinner in Black Cat Room, $1.00. Both a la carte 
and table d'hote dinners in other rooms. Prices reasonable. 
Maitre d'hotel: Adolph Hierony^nus 



SCHLOGL'S 

Meet the Literary Light si 

Robert J. Casey, newspaperman, explorer, humorist and 

26 



mystery-story writer, has his nose buried deep in a Ger- 
man apple pancake as big as an elephant's ear; Lew Sar- 
ett, poet, sturdy woodsman and Indian authority, is 
making short work of the Southern hash; Henry Justin 
Smith, managing editor of the Chicago Daily News and 
author of '^Deadlines" and other novels of newspaper 
life, prefers two boiled Q^^s^ toast and jelly; Vincent 
Starrett, the handsome bibliophile and essayist, obviously 
likes his Southern ham with corn fritters, while Howard 
Vincent O'Brien, literary critic and novelist, goes in for 
ham and eggs; but big Gene Morgan, the columnist, 
swears by the corned-beef hash with poached t^g. 

See them eating — ^the literary lights of Chicago. It is 
Saturday noon at Schlogl's. They are crowded about the 
big round walnut table in the right-hand corner — talk- 
ing, laughing, joking and shouting "Hey, Richard!" 
whenever the waiter is needed. Women are forbidden 
here. Therefore, male camaraderie prevails, the atmos- 
phere is thick with smoke from many a cigar and pipe, 
everything is informal, diners take their time and tell 
stories, and the Hamburger steaks and Wiener Schnitzel 
are plentiful and appetizing. 

Other regulars who come to the "round table" — al- 
though, of course, not all at any one time — include John 
T. Frederick, novelist and editor of The Midland maga- 
zine; Dr. Morris Fishbein, author of "Medical Follies;" 
S. L. Huntley, writer, epicure, and creator of the popular 
comic strip, "Mescal Ike;" the drama critics: Lloyd 
Lewis, of the Daily News; Gail Borden, of the Times; 
and Fritz Blocki, of the American; Charles Layng, short- 
story writer and globe-trotter; Phil R. Davis, lawyer, 
Loophound, and sometime poet; Jack Brady, "the public- 

27 



itor;" Hal O'Flaherty, foreign news editor of the Chi- 
cago Daily News; Paul Leach, political writer and author 
of "That Man Dawes;*' George Schneider, lawyer and 
bibliophile; Le Roy T. Goble, the advertising man and 
connoisseur of the arts; and the Midweek magazine 
group: Robert D. Andrews, editor, and two of his star 
contributors. Sterling North and Upton Terrell. 

What the Mitre tavern in Fleet Street was to the 
writers of Dr. Samuel Johnson's day, Schlogl's is to the 
scribes of Chicago's ^'Newspaper Row" at the present 
time. Also, it is one of the oldest restaurants in town, 
having been founded here in 1879 by Joseph Schlogl as 
a combined restaurant and weinstube, or wine-room. 
The interior is the same as on the day it was first opened, 
only the ornate tin ceiling, the walls and the large oil 
paintings depicting monks drinking wine in old cellars 
have become a bit musty and smoky with age — which is 
appropriate. The walnut tables, walnut panelling and 
walnut service bar are kept well-polished by Richard and 
his two assistant waiters, Charley and August. 

Schlogl's had its beginnings as a literary lounge in the 
days when Carl Sandburg, Sherwood Anderson, Ben 
Hecht, Robert Herrick, Edgar Lee Masters and Maxwell 
Bodenheim foregathered here. Others came after them 
— Bart Cormack, playwright and author of *'The 
Racket;" J. P. McEvoy, of 'The Potters" fame; Pascal 
Covici, the publisher; Charles Mac Arthur, who wrote 
"The Front Page" with Ben Hecht; Clarence Darrow, 
attorney and writer; John V. A. Weaver, author of *Tn 
American;" Harry Hansen, the literary critic; John 
Gunther, foreign news correspondent and novelist; J. 
U. Nicolson, author of "The King of the Black Isles;" 

28 



{ 



the drama critics, Ashton Stevens and Charles ColHns; 
Gene Markey, man of letters and bon vivant; Robert 
Morss Lovett, of the New Ke public staflf; James Weber 
Linn, columnist; Mitchell Dawson, poet and lawyer; Ir- 
win St. John Tucker, poet and rector of Chicago's **poet's 
church;" Kurt M. Stein, who writes in the German- 
American dialect; Edward Price Bell, dean of foreign 
correspondents of the CJoicago Daily News; Don Lawder, 
now of the New Yorker; Sam Putnam, literary critic; 
W. A. S. Douglass, contributor to the American Mer- 
cury; Junius B. Wood, the foreign correspondent; and 
Horace Bridges, the essayist. 

Since we seem to be doing nothing but listing names, 
we might just as well go all the way and put in the names 
of other well-known writers who have visited and dined 
here — ^Witter Bynner, Heywood Broun, Alfred Har- 
court, Donald Ogden Stewart, E. Haldeman-Julius, Paul 
H. De Kruif, Upton Sinclair, Bobby Edwards, William 
McFee, Sinclair Lewis, Konrad Bercovici, Arthur Bris- 
bane, William Allen White, D. W. Griffith, Gilbert Seldes, 
Horace Liveright, Louis Untermeyer, Jay G. Sigmund, 
Nelson Antrim Crawford, and the English visitors, — Re- 
becca West, Hamilton Fyfe, Ford Madox Ford, Francis 
Brett Young, E. O. Hoppe, and Brig. Gen. Edward L. 
Spears. 

You will find the autographs of all these literary no- 
tables in what has become known as "Richard's Book" 
— a copy of "Midwest Portraits," containing literary 
recollections of the Schlogl gang, written by Harry Han- 
sen and presented by him to Richard Schneider, who 
waits on the "round table." No other restaurant in the 
world boasts a book like this, wherein is described the 

29 



restaurant itself, and the people who eat in it, and having 
in its end sheets the autographs of those written about. 

Naturally, the "Who's Who" of the American literary 
world would not come here unless the cuisine were such 
as to meet the approval of fastidious men of letters. This 
place serves food that the most cosmopolitan of epicures 
would revel in. The Stewed Chicken a la Schlogl can be 
gotten nowhere else. MilHonaires who can afford sirloins 
and tenderloins come here for Hamburger steak, which 
is fried in butter and prepared as only Chef Paul Weber, 
who has been here for thirty years, knows how to pre- 
pare it. The steaks and chops demand more than just 
this mere listing of them. There is also savory Wiener 
Schnitzel and Hasenpfeflfer, roast young duck, and bouil- 
labaisse. Too, the Schlogl pancake is deserving of a chap- 
ter to itself. 

When accompanied by a lady, you eat upstairs in an 
old dining room, where the ceiling is cracked, the wall- 
paper is beginning to peel in places and warmth in winter 
is provided by an old coal stove. All is atmospheric and 
thrillingly ancient — except George Kling, who has a 
youthful alertness in seeing to the cuUnary needs of the 
distinguished ladies and gentlemen at his tables. 

You haven't dined in Chicago unless you've eaten at 
least once in this historic restaurant. If you're in any 
way literary, you are probably on your way over there 
by now. 

SchlogVs German- American 

37 North Wells Street 

Open for luncheon and dinner (closed on Sunday) 

30 



A la carte only — and expensive, but worth it 
Maitre d*hotel: Richard Schneider 



THE BREVOORT 

^^Famous For Food'' 

Breast of Guinea hen! What an exquisite flutter of the 
palate as we write those words. What thoughts at men- 
tion of this dish — of Johnny Bartsch, oldest of the Bre- 
voort waiters, bringing the generous portion under glass, 
(which always reminds us of the wax flowers under glass 
in grandmother's Victorian sitting room — but only as 
far as the glass is concerned) ; of the savory white flesh, 
with just the slightest flavor of game; and of the ap- 
petizing corn fritters, fresh mushrooms and sweet bit 
of ham that come with it. We'll wager our last dime that 
nowhere in the middle west can you get a better breast 
of Guinea hen than in the main dining room of the Bre- 
voort Hotel in Chicago. 

Many are the notables who have partaken of the Bre- 
voort's Guinea hen. Trixie Friganza, the actress, always 
visits the Brevoort when in town, and always orders 
Guinea hen; it Is also a favorite dish of Charles S. Deneen, 
former senator of Illinois, and Len Small, former gover- 
nor of the state — both of whom are habitues of the din- 
ing room. There are many other bigwigs who are Guinea 
hen addicts, so many that Charles Sandrock, maitre 
d'hotel here for seventeen years, cannot remember them 
all. 

31 



But don't get the impression that Guinea hen is the 
Brevoort's only specialty. Other foods are here in abun- 
dance. As a matter of fact, the Brevoort occupies about 
the same position among local gourmets as does the his- 
toric Hotel Brevoort dining room in New York City 
among gourmets of that metropolis. Chicago's Brevoort 
breathes an atmosphere of the unhurried past like its 
eastern sister — of leisurely dining, good fellowship, and 
an excellent cuisine. The Brevoort has been catering to 
Chicago for over a quarter of a century; it is the same 
today as it was in the days of heavy beards and bustles. 
The main dining room is still located in the basement and 
still has a Victorian air about it; and Henry, the chef, 
is still here, as well as Charley Sandrock, Johnny Bartsch 
and many of the other waiters, whose names are familiar 
to scores of prominent people about town. 

Nowhere have we found more truthful advertising 
than in the sign over the old Brevoort entrance, *Tamous 
For Food." As a hotel, the Brevoort is just another hotel, 
but as a house of food we oflfer it the silver loving cup. 
What a tantalizing array of other Brevoort specialties 
besides Guinea hen — imported Irish bacon and fried ap- 
ples, with the bacon really coming from Limerick; 
Special Sirloin Steak a la Chas. S., featuring a delightful 
garniture that Charley Sandrock invented himself; 
broiled baby lobsters; Squab en Casserole a la Parisienne; 
and broiled mushrooms on toast. We could name half a 
dozen other specialties, but these will give you an idea 
of what this house offers. On the a la carte menu, which 
is as inclusive as any in town, you'll also find many Ger- 
man and French dishes, and choice sea foods and game in 
season. 

32 



Luncheon is the high moment in the Brevoort day. The 
basement dining room is crowded with sleek, well-fed 
brokers, and aged, white-haired financiers from the 
Board of Trade and the La Salle Street financial district, 
which are just around the corner from the Brevoort. 
The Coffee Grill in the lobby upstairs is alive with the 
conversation of red-faced politicians and prominent of- 
ficials from the City Hall, nearby; and the famous 
old "Round Bar" at the rear of the lobby, done in the 
manner of a luxurious Moorish temple (red lamps and 
Saracenic scroll work and all) , formerly the Hannah 
& Hogg Bar, is serving its delicious plate luncheons 
to lawyers, advertising men and newspaper men. In all 
of these places, the food purveyed comes from the one 
kitchen and Chef Henry Friedenberg watches over that 
kitchen like a hawk. 

The Brevoort Hotel is situated in the center of the 
Loop and is convenient to all the more important hostel- 
ries of the downtown district proper. We advise you not 
to miss the Brevoort if you want food fit for a king, and 
want it amid restful surroundings and at the hands of 
waiters as civil and courteous as any to be found in the 
best Parisian cafe. 

The Brevoort American 

120 West Madison Street 

Coffee Grill open from 8 :30 A. M. until midnight. Main 
dining room open for luncheon and dinner (Sundays in- 
cluded) . "Rotmd Bar" for luncheon only. 

The a la carte is average in price. Table d'hote dinners, 
$1,25 and $1J5 

Mattre d'hotel: Charles Sandrock 

33 



ST. HUBERT'S 

Merrie England in the Loop 

Thick English mutton chops and plum pudding await you 
in delightful old St. Hubert's English Grill. This little 
bit of England in the Loop, tucked away at the foot of 
the towering Union League Club, is located happily on 
narrow, London-like Federal Street, and on a foggy day 
you'd think you were in some by-street just o£F Piccadilly 
Circus. Here, polite pink-coated English waiters bring 
you a mutton chop so thick and juicy that its taste lingers 
in your mouth for days. Dr. Sam Johnson might utter 
an immortal bon mot over it. As for the plum pudding, 
Mr. Dawell, the proprietor, is apologetic. "We haven't 
the brandy so necessary in making it," he explains wist- 
fully. But his cooks do an excellent job of it with what 
materials they have. 

Here is the atmosphere of an old English inn such as 
you read about in Thackeray or Dickens. The ceiling is 
low and beamed; long English clay pipes, smoked by 
Chicago celebrities who dine here, hang from the beams; 
old English sporting prints decorate the rough stone 
walls; the atmosphere is quiet and homey and heavy 
with smoke; the fire-place puts you in a mood of ease 
and relaxation. Upstairs, where you dine when accompan- 
ied by a woman, framed pictures of British royalty 
abound and the plate-rail is filled with English crockery 
and other mementos of British life. 

Mr. Da well's guest book shows visitors from all over 

34 



the globe — Rio, Singapore, Paris, Scotland. Henry Irving, 
Ellen Terry, William Faversham and other Anglo-Amer- 
ican theatrical stars have eaten here in the past, as well 
as Sir Thomas Lipton and Charles Dickens, Jr., son of 
the novelist. This is one of the favorite dining places of 
those two noted Union Leaguers, General Charles Gates 
Dawes and Frank O. Lowden, former governor of Il- 
linois. 

The late John J. Mitchell, the banker, came in often; 
even "Big Bill" Thompson, former mayor of Chicago, 
has reveled in English mutton chops here on a number 
of occasions; Clarence Darrow, the great criminal attor- 
ney and liberal, had his wedding breakfast in St. Hubert's 
many years ago; Richard Henry Little, conductor of the 
popular "Line O' Type Or Two" column in the Chicago 
Tribune, and his wife, Shelby Little, the authoress, are 
frequent visitors. St. Hubert's has even made its way into 
contemporary fiction, being described in Mary Plum's 
"The Strange Death of Judge McFarlane" and in John 
Gunther's "The Red Pavilion" and a number of other 
novels. 

Try St. Hubert's. We know of no more charming 
and pleasant adventure in town than a dinner of mut- 
ton chops in this picturesque and authentic old inn. You'll 
like the London accent of the waiters and their inborn 
courtesy. And Mr. Dawell, who was born in a little town 
in Illinois, is our idea of a perfect host. 

S^. Hubert's Old English Grill English 

316 Federal Street 

Dinner a la carte only — and rather expensive. Business 
men's table d'hote luncheon. 

35 



open until 9 P. M. 

Mattre d'hotel: Charles A. Dawell 



WIECHMANN & GELLERT'S 

Bear, Caribou, and Moose 

It's a lucky thing that nature up in the New Brunswick 
country in Canada is ever bountiful and replenishes her 
woods and streams with new wild life each year, for if 
this were not the case Herman Wiechmann would have 
cleaned out the country long ago in supplying Chicago- 
ans with the popular game dishes — bear, caribou, and 
moose. Annually, for thirty years, he's been going there 
with his rifle and returning home with a loaded bag, so 
to speak. As a result, his restaurant at the south end of 
the Loop is a rendezvous for all lovers of venison and 
other game dishes. 

And what a restaurant it is! You know that game is 
featured here as soon as you step inside, for the walls 
are decorated with sprig-like antlers and other trophies 
of the hunt. And Herman Wiechmann did not buy 
them, either; each antler comes from a deer that he 
brought down with his own hands in the north country. 
The walls are hung with big black turtle shells, indicat- 
ing that this is a place of sea foods too. But the feature 
that strikes you most in this South Wabash Avenue 
restaurant is its old-style atmosphere, reminiscent of a 
dining room of the nineties — long, rangy, and with a 
highly ornate Victorian ceiling. 

36 



This ceiling, by the way, is of interest to old-timers 
because it is all that is left of the famed Kuntz-Remmler 
restaurant, which occupied the premises before Wiech- 
mann & Gellert took it over six years ago. "Honest John" 
Kuntz, who died in 1928, attracted many prominent 
people to his place, among them Theodore Roosevelt, En- 
rico Caruso, John Drew and John L. Sullivan. Harry 
Hansen, the literary critic, writes of John Kuntz's place: 
**In my college days, 1905-1909, I often ate a fine steak 
at Kuntz-Remmler*s. They served a grand steak for fifty 
cents, with potatoes and coffee. We paid twenty-five at 
the University Commons, so you can see that we were 
lavish." 

Meanwhile, over in the Standard Club Building in 
South Dearborn Street, Wiechmann & Gellert 's was mak- 
ing history and vying with the Kuntz-Remmler establish- 
ment in catering to the epicures of the city. There came 
venerable judges from the United States district courts 
in the Federal Building nearby — Judge Kenesaw Moun- 
tain Landis, Judge James Wilkerson, Judge Carpenter, 
and such other celebrities as Charles ("Old Roman") 
Comiskey, Ban Johnson, Armour, Swift, and many of 
the mayors of the city. Wiechmann & Gellert were in 
this location for twenty years and when the old club 
building was torn down to make way for a new one, the 
restaurant moved over to Wabash Avenue and took over 
the vacant Kuntz-Remmler premises. 

Today, Wiechmann & Gellert's is the most popular 
restaurant in the city for game. Sea foods and German 
dishes are also featured. What a treat to observe the wait- 
ers hurrying back and forth among the tables with all 
the fish and game — turtle soup, prepared from green 

37 



turtles (shipped alive from Louis Bay, Mississippi) , and 
with a dash of sherry wine in it; partridges; bass and 
stuffed lobsters; perhaps a saddle of venison requiring 
two waiters to carry it; bear meat; opossums, raccoons, 
beaver, Alaska mountain goat and Watertown goose. 
The game, of course, is served only in season. Among the 
German dishes, the pork shanks and sauerkraut and the 
Beef a la mode with potato pancake are outstanding for 
their palatableness. 

Wiecbmann & Gellert German- American 

424 South Wabash Avenue 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

Both table d'hote and a la carte — and reasonable 

Mattre d'hotel: Herman Wiechmann 



LA LOUISIANE 

A Night In New Orleans 

Gaston Alciatore, handsome as a collar ad, and with the 
ends of his mustache waxed, animatedly welcoming new 
arrivals with typical French — or is it Southern? — cordial- 
ity; French waiters lighting silvery alcohol lamps to make 
crepes Suzette; murals of scenes in the old French quarter 
of New Orleans decorating the walls; Ferdinand Alci- 
atore, father of Gaston, looking down benevolently from 
an oil painting to the left of the entrance; diners gazing 

38 



over the list of Creole hors d'oeuvres, trying to decide be- 
tween salade d'anchoix or escargots a la bourguignonne; 
everybody, however, ordering Creole gumbo and that 
fish which is New Orleans' gift to the world's edibles, 
pompano papillotte. 

Truthfully, here is a night in old New Orleans! Atmos- 
phere, food, the service and the waiters, and Gaston him- 
self, give you the impression of dining in that famed 
rendezvous of New Orleans' gourmets. La Louisiane, 
where Gaston's father once was proprietor. As a matter 
of fact, the interior of the Chicago restaurant is an exact 
replica of the establishment in the Mardi Gras city. Or 
you could easily imagine that you were eating in the par- 
ent restaurant of both, Antoine's, one of the oldest and 
most noted restaurants in America. Antoine's was 
founded by Antoine Alciatore, grandfather of Gaston. 
Julian Street, writing in the Saturday Evening Post, 
points to Antoine Alciatore and his two sons, Jules and 
Ferdinand, as outstanding men around whom the names 
of great restaurants have been built. 

Chicago epicures and epicuresses thank the stars that 
there is a member of this great family of restaurateurs in 
town, for nowhere else can they indulge their passion for 
delectable viands with greater zest and enjoyment than 
in this one-story restaurant among the auto salesrooms of 
South Michigan Boulevard. All the great dishes of Creole 
cookery, which is the most original school of cookery in 
the United States, combining as it does both French and 
Spanish influences, are served here with such skill and 
palatableness as to draw people not only from all parts 
of Chicago but from other cities as well. The chef, Arnold 
Pfeffinger, was trained in New Orleans kitchens and 

39 



knows how to prepare these dishes in the true Alciatore 
tradition. 

Now, messieurs et mesdaTnes, if you wish a typical New 
Orleans dinner, we would suggest salade d'anchoix — an- 
chovy salad with beets, chopped Q^g and capers — for your 
hors d'oeuvres. It's perfectly grand. Among the oysters, 
there is that culinary masterpiece first oflFered to the world 
in the old Antoine restaurant — namely, oysters Rocke- 
feller. You may order it here, but you may not order the 
recipe of its incomparable sauce, for that remains a secret 
of the Alciatore family. Creole gumbo, of course, is your 
soup in any Maison Alciatore, for only the Alciatore chefs 
know how to prepare this noted New Orleans concoction 
in just the proper manner. 

And now we come to the piece de resistance — pompano 
papillote. We could write letters home to mother, we 
could wax poetic, we could shout from the house-tops, 
over the delicious pompano that Max Manus, oldest of 
the Alciatore waiters, lays before us; we could go into a 
long dissertation over its virtues, describing the savory 
fish, the method of baking in oiled paper (the word 
"papillote" refers to this process), the history of this 
scaleless fish, which is found nowhere else in the world 
but in the blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico — we could, 
in short, make ourselves ridiculous in our ravings over 
the delectableness of this American member of the finny 
tribe, but our suggestion is that you try it yourself. We're 
sure you'll feel the same way we do after once tasting it. 
And don't forget to order souffle potatoes, asparagus tips 
and Southern alligator pear salad — which are the conven- 
tional accompaniments to New Orleans pompano. 

In case you don't care for fish, however, there are lamb 

40 



chops a la Louisiane, another specialite de la maison, 
served with livers and mushrooms and the whole drenched 
in claret wine sauce. This is truly a gastronomical delight 
and something you'll not easily forget. 

At La Louisiane, almost any evening, you'll find both 
local and nationally-known celebrities. Maurice Cheva- 
lier, the French comedian, dined here when he was in 
town; such society personages as Count and Countess 
Minetto, Michael Cudahy, Jr., and Mrs. Frederick Coun- 
tiss come in often as do those two Randolph Street thea- 
tre executives, John J. Garrity and Ralph Kettering. Tito 
Schipa, Chicago's favorite opera singer, is another patron, 
as is R. R. Donnelly, whose printing firm makes the tele- 
phone books. P. M. Goodv/illie, the box manufacturer 
and about-towner, and his wife, are regulars and may be 
seen here often with their friend. Chief Michael Corrigan, 
of the fire department. 

But celebrities are not the factor that counts in La 
Louisiane. It's the food — and what food! This place is a 
culinary landmark of Chicago and you shouldn't miss it. 
Gaston's vivacious French manner will charm you and he 
will gladly assist you in the selection of dishes. You may 
dance at La Louisiane, without cover charge, from 7 P.M. 
until 1 A. M. 

La Louisiane French-Creole 

1341 South Michigan Boulevard 

Open for luncheon, dinner and after the theatre 

A la carte. Two can dine plentifully for $5.00 
Table d'hote, $1.25 

Maitre d'hotel: Gaston Alciatore 

41 



KAU'S 

The Wineless Weinstube 

We feel sad every time we enter Henry Kau*s place. To 
think that this quaint and charming weinstube, redolent 
of old times and with a tavern-Hke interior more interest- 
ing and picturesque than any you'll find in Chicago — or 
Berlin, for that matter — should be without the juice of 
the grape! What a pity! It fills us with the sort of wistful 
sadness we feel upon beholding in a museum some delicate 
old wine glass, now, alas, empty and unused, from the 
cupboard of a princely household. How many times have 
we longed, while dining here, for a schoppen of one of 
those rare old EJiine Valley vintages that Henry Kau used 
to purvey in the old days — a Scharlachberger or a Riide- 
sheimer — wines that would be so much in keeping with 
the dark and medieval atmosphere of this restaurant in 
South Wells Street. 

Thinking these thoughts, we should pine away and die 
if it were not for the new lease on life we take when the 
waiter sets before us that which we have ordered. A faint 
bouquet charms our nostrils; our eyes begin to glisten; 
and our palate awakens with anticipation. For there be- 
fore us lies the object for which we usually come to Kau's 
— fricasseed chicken. It is a culinary masterpiece. Only 
a woman could prepare it in just this way and we thank 
the gods for Mrs. Mueller, chef for Henry Kau for thirty- 
five years, who is responsible for making diners feel no 
regrets at the absence of wines. English mutton chops, 

42 



special steaks, Iamb chops, roast lamb, fowls and game in 
season, are other dishes of the house that are especially 
notable. 

Small wonder, then, that Chicago's kings of finance, 
captains of industry, merchant princes, and millionaires 
of all sorts have sat — and still continue to sit — at the 
tables in this old German weinstube, which is located just 
around the corner from the La Salle Street financial dis- 
trict. The wholesale district is also nearby. 

That world-renowned Chicagoan, General Charles 
Gates Dawes, at present ambassador to the Court of St. 
James, dines here frequently when he is in town; here 
came the late Albert B. Kuppenheimer, clothing manu- 
facturer; it was the favorite eating place of James Simp- 
son, chairman of the board of Marshall Field & Company 
and head of the Chicago Plan Commission; Louis Eck- 
stein, founder of the Ravinia Opera, has his fricasseed 
chicken here, as does John J. Mitchell, the banker (the 
younger) , and Charles Netcher, head of the Boston Store; 
and you're likely to find those two friends, Ludwig Plate, 
local manager of the North German Lloyd offices, and Dr. 
Hugo Simon, the German consul, at one of the tables al- 
most any day. Here also came the late Charles Wacker, 
the city planner, after whom Wacker Drive is named. 

That Kau's was built as a temple of wine and food is 
evidenced on all sides; the white-tiled fagade is carved 
with designs of lobsters and game and monks drinking 
wine; the leaded windows of colored glass are covered 
with culinary symbols; the interior walls are of mahogany 
panelling and hung with old German color prints of 
scenes along the Rhine; and back of the service bar is a 

43 



large painting of the vineyard-covered hills of Bingen- 
on-the-Rhine, where Henry Kau spent his boyhood. 

In 1914, upon his return from a tour of Germany, 
Henry Kau built this weinstube, embodying in it the best 
features of the weinstuben he had studied in Berlin. 
Henry feels that you won't find anything to compare 
with it in the German capital. It was designed by the late 
Peter J. Weber, a noted architect who also designed the 
Ravinia Opera Pavilion and some of the World's Fair 
buildings in 1893. 

All of which is to say that if you are looking for genuine 
old-time tavern atmosphere, combined with food of the 
highest excellence, we recommend Henry Kau's without 
reservations. And you will quickly forget that this is a 
wineless weinstube. 

Kau's German- American 

127 South Wells Street 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

Table d'hote only — and a bit steep 

Maitre d' hotel: Henry Kau 



MADAME GALLI'S 
Still at the Old Stand 

Once, while conversing with the late Enrico Caruso as he 
ate spaghetti in her restaurant, Mme. Galli said: 

44 



"Signer, I would give the whole world if I could sing 
like you." 

And the great "O Sole Mio" singer replied: 

"Madame, I would give the whole world if I could 
cook spaghetti like you." 

And there you have it in a nut shell. For forty years, 
Mme. Galli's has been serving spaghetti and other Italian 
dishes to Chicago's diners-out and bons vivants as well 
as to notables of the theatrical, operatic and literary 
worlds. It was the first Italian restaurant in town. And it 
is still at the old stand, the same today as it was almost 
half a century ago; but alas — Mme. Galli is now with 
God. She died in 1915 and her daughter-in-law, Mme. 
America Galli, has been carrying on the business ever 
since, and with as much success. 

The story of Mme. Carmelinda Galli, founder of this 
nationally-known restaurant, is a romance of Tower 
Town. In fact, the near north side art colony, centering 
around the old Chicago Avenue water tower, had its birth 
in Mme. Galli's little old three-story brick house just 
across the river from the Loop. Born in Lucca, Italy, of 
well-to-do parents, she came to Chicago in 1883 with her 
husband and children. When her husband died shortly 
afterwards, she was left in straitened circumstances and 
was forced to take in boarders in her little house in East 
Illinois Street. 

These boarders were mostly poor starving artists and 
writers and she fed them spaghetti, having learned how 
to cook it in a special way from the old family cook in 
sunny Italy. She did not open a restaurant, however, until 
after an episode involving a group of actors and actresses 
from abroad, who were playing in Chicago in the Eight- 

45 



ies. It seems they threatened to go back to their native 
heath unless they could find a spaghetti restaurant in 
Chicago. A stage hand who boarded at Mme. Galli's told 
them about her wonderful spaghetti. They immediately 
flocked to her boarding house, her fame grew with a 
bound, and shortly afterwards she put in several more 
long tables and opened a restaurant. 

But although she grew in worldly fortune, Mme. Galli 
never forgot the poor artists, writers and musicians of 
the bohemian quarter. When she died sixteen years ago at 
the age of sixty-six years, Tower Town mourned her as 
"The Queen of Bohemia." 

During its long existence, Mme. Galli's has made his- 
tory. It was a surprise to us to learn that Rotary was 
born here (H. L. Mencken, please note). ''It was in this 
restaurant, on Feb. 23, 1905, that Paul P. Harris, a Chi- 
cago attorney, paused over a dish of spaghetti and men- 
tioned his idea of Rotary to an interested listener, Syl- 
vester Schiele," wrote Frank J. Cipriani, of the Chicago 
Tribune. Here, also, in the Gay Nineties, came Eugene 
Field, "the children's poet," with a bunch of cronies from 
the old Chicago Daily News office; another literary light 
of that time who first learned how to eat spaghetti here 
was George Ade, and nowadays he never comes to town 
from his Indiana farm without having a "feed" at Mme. 
Galli's. George Horton wrote a good portion of his Chi- 
cago novel, "The Long Straight Road," in this place, and 
he devotes considerable space in it to a description of the 
restaurant. In later years there came such significant fig- 
ures in American literature as William Marion Reedy and 
Edgar Lee Masters. Always, the local literary and other 
critics have frequented the place — Llewellyn Jones and 

46 



Susan Wilbur, of the Post; C. J. Buillet, art critic of the 
Post; and Howard Vincent O'Brien, of the Daily News, 

One of the proud possessions of the family is a large 
caricature drawing, hanging on the wall, of Mme. Galli, 
made by the great Caruso in 1910. This was the favorite 
Chicago dining place of the opera singer. Other singers 
and conductors from the opera came here — Francesca 
Daddi, Toscanini, Campanini, Rimini and Tito Schipa. 
Such stage and screen stars as Leon Errol, Bernard Gran- 
ville, Al Jolscn, Jane Cowl, Will Rogers, Buster Keaton, 
Raymond Hitchcock, W. C. Fields, Elsie Janis, Ann Pen- 
nington, Ina Claire and Moran and Mack eat or have 
eaten at Mme. Galli's board. Framed and autographed 
photographs of many of these personages hang from the 
walls. Here, too, the late Eddie Foy first met his wife, 
who was one of Mme. Galli's boarders. Located near the 
old Criminal Courts Building and County Jail, Mme. 
Galli's was also the rendezvous of eminent judges — Mar- 
cus Kavanaugh, Theodore Brentano and the late Frank 
Comer ford. 

There are scores of other distinguished people who have 
eaten, or continue to eat, in this little unpretentious place, 
but Mme. America Galli (who, by the way, was born 
here) does not keep a guest book and cannot recall all of 
them. 

Mme. Galli's is of particular interest to us, however, be- 
cause nowhere this side of Naples can you get better spa- 
ghetti. It is served with a sauce that has made the house 
famous, the recipe of which old Mme. Galli refused to 
sell to the Heinz company for a not unflattering figure. 
They have no menu here, the customer merely being asked 
his choice of entrees — chicken, squab, filet mignon, or 

47 



lamb chops. The whole dinner includes an appetizer, soup, 
spaghetti, the entree, salad, cheese and apples, or the deli- 
cious Italian ice cream, spumoni. As prepared by Chef 
Orazio Monti, who possesses the Galli family secrets in 
regard to cuisine, this dinner explains the reason why so 
many notable people are seen here almost any evening. 

Mme. Galli's Italian 

1 8 East Illinois Street 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

Table d^hote only. Luncheon, 75 cents, Dinner, $1,50 

Maitresse d'hotel: Mme. America Galli 



NEW COLLEGE INN 

Food and Entertainment a la By field 

Bouillabaisse a la Marseillaise! If you have ever tasted this 
famed Mediterranean fish stew, brought to perfection by 
the chefs of Prunier's in Paris, you have come the nearest 
to eating the sort of food our dear departed presumably 
eat in heaven. It is the rarest of sea food delicacies and its 
memory remains on your palate for days. But you don't 
have to go to Paris to get it — thanks to the Byfield broth- 
ers, proprietors of the Hotel Sherman, and known from 
Broadway to the Loop as the most genial and enterprising 
of hosts. 

For in their New College Inn, in the basement of the 

48 



Hotel Sherman, they have installed M. Jean Gazabat as 
head chef — M. Jean himself, formerly of Maison Prunier's 
and the Cafe de Paris, two of the leading dining places in 
Gay Paree. Monsieur Jean's genius in the preparation of 
sea foods, learned in the kitchens of Prunier's, has al- 
ready put the College Inn high up in the list of Chicago 
sea food restaurants favored by discriminating epicures. 
And one of his outstanding specialties is Bouillabaisse a la 
Marseillaise. 

All of which culinary data is offered as proof of the 
fact that the College Inn is as much a dining place as a 
place of dancmg and entertainment. It is the oldest dine- 
and-dance restaurant on the Randolph Street Rialto; for 
thirty years it has been a gathering place for theatrical 
stars and just ordinary people "out for a night." In the 
years immediately before and after the war, Isham Jones 
and his dance orchestra made the College Inn a Mecca for 
Loop pleasure -seekers. 

Then, in recent years, when times changed and the 
modernist note came to the fore in the arts of decoration, 
the Byfield brothers, ever progressive and **aware," re- 
decorated the old College Inn, installed new features, 
inaugurated a delightful floor show, improved the cuisine 
and — most important of all improvements — brought in 
Ben Bernie as master of ceremonies. The *'Old Maestro," 
as Bernie is known to his friends, has practically made the 
New College Inn what it is today, providing the most 
attractive after-the-theatre entertainment in Chicago. 

But the food has not been sacrificed on the altar of 
jazz. The a la carte menu handed to you by the ever- 
polite Braun (popularly known as "Brown") , the maitre 
d'hotel, would delight the eye of the most cosmopolitan 

49 



of diners-out. Choice dishes from the gay capitals of 
Europe tempt your palate. Here, for example, are those 
delicious items prepared by Louis Vatel, an expert chef 
in the preparation of Italian and other Continental 
viands. Here, also, are the chafing dish specialties offered 
by Joe Colton, known to many as "Finnan Haddie Joe." 
Trained in the kitchens of the original Rector's in Chi- 
cago, and later with the same restaurant in New York, 
Joe is the cook responsible for such popular items as Col- 
lege Inn chicken a la king, chicken shortcake, lobster 
Newburg, and the appetizing Creamed Finnan Haddie a 
la College Inn. 

We advise you not to miss Joe's finnan haddie, served 
with an admirable cream sauce infused with the most 
luscious of small red shrimps. It is a rare gastronomic 
pleasure. As for his lobster Newburg, sufficient comment 
is made on it when we say that those two epicures of 
Chicago, Amy Leslie, dean of dramatic critics, and Louis 
Swift, the packer, come to the College Inn almost weekly 
to partake of it. On the other hand, the late Raymond 
Hitchcock preferred Joe's chicken shortcake to any of his 
other specialties. There are others among famous people 
who come for the wide variety of oysters, served at the 
new Oyster Bar. 

What with its main dancing and dining room, its ad- 
joining hors d'oeuvres bar and oyster bar, and Ben Bernie, 
the College Inn is probably the most interesting and 
unique restaurant in Chicago. Ashton Stevens, an habitue 
of the College Inn, even goes further and says that it is 
the most successful night club in America. Around the 
walls is a modernist design of a tropical aquarium, done 
by the painter, John Norton; and when the lights are 

50 



turned low for dancing, strange and exotic fish appear in 
a glow of phosphorescent pastel colors — an effect ob- 
tained by the use of radium paint. The firm headed by- 
Ralph A. Bond, the prominent clubman and backgam- 
mon expert, laid the dance floor which, it is said, resembles 
a backgammon board. 

A word about the famous "Theatrical Nights'* on 
Thursday nights in the College Inn. Don't miss attend- 
ing at least one. Stevens says they have "actually become 
a scandal all over the United States." Actors and actresses, 
famous and not so famous, come here after the theatre on 
these nights and put on an impromptu performance that 
you will never forget. And they come because they like 
Ben Bernie, Ernest Byfield, Dr. Albert Byfield, and Frank 
W. Bering, manager of the hotel and noted polo player. 

One local drama critic made the remark that on the 
evening he attended Theatrical Night "there must have 
been at least $70,000 worth of theatrical talent among 
the diners." We are inclined to believe him when we re- 
call the names of some of the stars who have been present 
in the past — Irene Bordoni, Ethel Barrymore, Frank 
Morgan, the Four Marx brothers. Rod LaRocque, Vilma 
Banky, Dorothy and Paula Stone, Clark and McCullough, 
Rudy Vallee, De Wolf Hopper, William Hodge, Helen 
Morgan, and a host of others. 

The drama critics come too — Gail Borden, of the 
Times; Charles Collins, of the Tribune; Mrs. Margaret 
Mann Crolius, of the News. A host of well-known and 
popular Rialto characters are always present, such as 
U. J. ("Sport") Hermann, the theatre manager; Ser- 
geants William Drury and John Howe, of the Detective 

51 



Bureau; and Richard (''Rich") Jacobson, editor of the 
political newspaper, Standard Opinion. 

So, if you are looking for a unique thrill to tell the 
folks about when you get back home, we suggest the New 
College Inn. 

New College Inn American 

Randolph and Clark Streets 

Open for luncheon, the dansant, dinner, after-the-theatre 
supper, aftd Jtntil the milkman comes 

Cover charge after 9:30 P. M., $1.00. Saturday nights, 
$1.50. On Theatrical Nights, $2.00 

Mattre d^hotel: J. Braun 



A/« 




LITTLE BOHEMIA 

With a Capital B 

The Little Bohemia is not a restaurant for long-haired 
artists and short-haired poetesses. It is not a rendezvous of 
bohemians; no midnight coffee, cigarettes and lofty dis- 
cussions of Freud are in evidence here. No, you spell the 
last name of the Little Bohemia with a capital B — which 
means that it is patronized by persons of Bohemian na- 
tionality or descent. And not only these, but individuals 
of high and low degree from all other races in Chicago 
come here, for the Little Bohemia is a landmark of the 

52 



west side, serving food as good as any to be found outside 
the Loop. 

In the old days (Ah, the old days! ) , the Little Bohemia 
was known all over town for its imported Pilsner beer. 
Many were the celebrities, during the summer evenings 
of long ago, who used to drive out to the west side in a 
hansom cab and sip those big steins of Pilsner served there. 
Not the least of them were the late Theodore Thomas, 
founder of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra, and his 
companion, Henry Kau, the restaurateur and former 
wine merchant. 

It was logical for Pilsner to be purveyed here, for this 
place is located in the heart of **Little Pilsen," as Chicago's 
neighborhood of Bohemian families in the vicinity of 
West 18th Street and Blue Island Avenue is called. Al- 
though prohibition has come, and the Pilsner has gone, the 
Little Bohemia otherwise remains the same today as it 
was in the old days — that is, architecturally speaking. 
You could find no more comfortable and pleasant dining 
room in town than the one here. It is quietly and attrac- 
tively done in mahogany woodwork; murals depicting 
scenes in early Chicago history decorate the walls; and at 
the rear is a log cabin dining room, filled with antlers and 
other trophies of the hunt. 

People from all parts of Chicago come here nowadays 
for the excellent food and the convivial atmosphere. 
Emil Wanatka is a restaurateur of the old school and takes 
a personal interest in his menu and the customer who 
reads it. A native of Bohemia, he serves any dish to be 
found on the menu of the famed Hotel Continental, in 
Pilsen, Bohemia. These dishes, however, are not greatly 
diflferent from German dishes, but Emil's roast goose with 

53 



sauerkraut is something that you'll like especially. Regu- 
lar American items are served here also and in a way that 
does credit to Emil's cooks, who are all women. And you'll 
like the toothsome Bohemian pastries, Emil serves game 
in season — moose, bear meat and caribou- 
Offering good substantial dishes in an appetizing way, 
the Little Bohemia caters in a large measure to the sport- 
ing element of the city. It receives a heavy **play" during 
the racing season at Hawthorne, since its location on the 
west side makes it convenient to motorists on their way 
out to or returning from the Cicero racetrack. Here, 
come the prize fight followers after any big fisticuff 
event at the Chicago Stadium, which is not far away. 
Gene Tunney dined here at the time he fought Jack 
Dempsey in Chicago. Newspapermen and city officials 
are frequenters and it is one of the dining places of Mayor 
Anton Cermak, who was born in Bohemia. Heads of 
the commission houses in the South Water Commission 
Market, located in the nearby ''Valley," come here also. 

The Little Bohemia Bohemian- American 

1722 South Loamis Street 

Open for luncheon, dinner, and supper 

A la carte only — and reasonable 

Mattre d'hotel: Emil Waitatka 



54 






ATLANTIC DINING ROOM 

Old Heidelberg 

If you've ever been to Heidelberg, that romantic medieval 
university town on the Neckar, and visited its old Heidel- 
berger Schloss, an outstanding example of German cas- 
tle architecture, you'll appreciate to the full the charm of 
the Hotel Atlantic main dining room. If you haven't been 
to old Heidelberg — well, here's the next best thing to it. 

For this small, picturesque dining room used to be the 
Bauernstube of the Kaiserhof Hotel, a famed hostelry for 
German- Americans, that formerly stood on the site of the 
Atlantic. When they tore down the original Kaiserhof 
many years ago, this dining room, together with the old 
bar-room, was preserved and incorporated into the new 
building. In no other restaurant in the Windy City can 
you enjoy the atmosphere of the grand old days as in this 
place. 

If you're an expert antiquarian, however, you'll notice 
that the Batcernstube is something more than a mere 
Heidelberg peasant's room, being really a combination of 
an old German Kneipe (inn room) , a medieval hall and a 
rather luxurious Bauernstube. Everything in the room 
smacks of medieval Germany — raftered ceiling, high oak 
wainscoting, heraldic devices, wood carvings, and the 
murals of Lichtenstein Castle and other historic German 
landmarks, done by the painter, Edgar Spier Cameron. 

To a modern sophisticate, however, it all looks rococo 
and flowery and unnecessary. But even your sophisticate 

55 



could not disguise his interest in the most distinguishing 
feature of this dining room — the thirty-four pyrographic 
panels at the farther end of the restaurant. In the old 
days this part used to be the "Ladies' Cafe" of the Bau- 
ernstuhe. The panels are set into the German Renaissance- 
style wainscoting. They are the work of Otto Schwarz 
Vanderleeden, noted creator of burnt-wood pictures, and 
the subjects represented are taken chiefly from Goethe's 
"Faust" and Shakespeare's "Merry Wives of Windsor." 

The Atlantic Grill, which is a counter lunch room of 
the hotel facing directly on Clark Street, formerly was 
the Kaiserhof Bar and still retains some of the features of 
the one-time drinking place, notably the seated plaster 
figure of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, standing out in 
haut relief in a centerpiece on the north wall. The ravens 
are beside him, and he seems to have just been awakened 
by their cawing after his periodical sleep of a hundred 
years in the Kyfifhauser Mountains. But Frank L. Hayes, 
poet of the Chicago Daily News and sometime patron of 
the lunch room, gives a different interpretation of this fig- 
ure in a recent poem: 

"The faces one saw here in nineteen-eleven 
One finds here no longer; perhaps they're in heaven. 
That's why the old king in his niche, looking down, 
Is knitting his brows in a sorrowful frown." 

As for the food served in the main dining room, Her- 
man Schurg, maitre d'hotel, says it is "an international 
cuisine — with a leaning toward the German." Herman is 
telling the truth. French, German, English and Amer- 
ican dishes — all prepared under the watchful eye of Chef 
Otto Johannisson, one of Chicago's outstanding cooks — 

56 



await you at luncheon and dinner. The Atlantic is also 
noted for its pastries, baked in its own ovens. We like 
especially the stollen, the recipe of which dates back four 
hundred years in Teutonic history, and the almond-filled 
strudel, a delightful creation to go with your coffee. There 
are French and Danish pastries, cheese cake, and pum- 
pernickel bread and old-fashioned German rye bread, 
made from sour dough. 

And if you want to see some of the noted men of 
Chicago, men from such landmarks in the vicinity as 
the Board of Trade, the Stock Exchange, the Federal 
Building, the Union League Club, the Insurance Ex- 
change Building and the Continental Illinois Bank & 
Trust Company, come here any day at noon. The late 
James Patten, the wheat king, ate here, and Arthur Cut- 
ten, the present wheat king, comes in often. Here dine 
such prominent German-Americans as Dr. Otto Schmidt, 
the historian; Oscar Mayer, the sausage manufacturer; 
Dr. Hugo Simon, German consul; Dr. Louis B. Schmidt, 
the noted surgeon; Albert Brietung, the tobacco manu- 
facturer, and Ernest J. Kreutgen, head of the engraving 
firm. Julius Rosenwald, the philanthropist, dines here fre- 
quently, as does James E. Gorman, president of the Rock 
Island Railroad and Dr. Max Heinus, member of the li- 
brary board. 

The waiters are courteous and considerate and Her- 
man, the maitre d'hotel, will see to it that you are made 
comfortable. Remember, it's the food that counts — 
and this is a place for good substantial food. 

Hotel Atlantic Dining Room German- American 

316 South Clark Street 

57 



open for luncheon and dinner 

Plate luncheon, 85 cents. Table d'hote dinner, $1,25, 
Also a la cart^' 

Maitre d'hotel: Herman Schurg 



HENRICrS 

''No Orchestral Din" 

Is there a Chicagoan living, no matter how old, who does 
not remember Henrici's windows, ever since his mother 
first took him downtown as a child — those big windows 
laden with tantalizing creations in birthday, wedding, 
and fruit cakes and, at Christmas time, those big English 
plum puddings? Here is the oldest restaurant in Chicago. 
Situated in the gaudy center of the Randolph Street thea- 
trical district, this grand old temple of the culinary art 
is known from coast to coast; its familiar advertising 
phrase, **No Orchestral Din," has become a national 
slogan, as common as ''Say It With Flowers" or ''Janssen 
Wants To See You." 

And this phrase, *'No Orchestral Din," is not an idle 
boast. Your true gourmet will quickly recognize the 
significance of it. Since Henrici's is an establishment de- 
voted solely to the art of eating, as it was practiced in 
the good old days, everything has been ruled out that 
might be foreign to the quiet, dignified and restful at- 

58 



mosphere which a born gourmet seeks. No jazz orchestra, 
no clatter of silverware or dishes, nor the sound of wait- 
resses moving about, disturbs the Henrici patron in the 
enjoyment of his food or in conversation with fellow 
diners. 

We Sire not engaging in a superlative (for which Chi- 
cagoans are notorious) when we say that Henrici's is the 
oldest restaurant in the city. Turn to any of the early city 
guide-books and you will find that it was founded in 
1868 — three years after the close of the Civil War. And 
its atmosphere today is practically the same as it was 
in the days of hoop skirts and side-burns. It is like a bit 
of the Old World in the midst of modern American sky- 
scrapers; a breath of Vienna, that brilliant capital of din- 
ing halls. And so it should be, for Phillip Henrici, its 
founder, was a member of an old Vienna family of noted 
restaurateurs. Coming to this country as a young man, he 
continued westward to Chicago and set up a small eat- 
ing-place near Madison and Wells Streets, which was the 
"Newspaper Row" of that day. In the course of time the 
diners-out — newspapermen, sportsmen, and business men 
— beat a path to his door. His wonderful coffee and deli- 
cious pastries became the talk of the town. 

In building the present restaurant, which was opened 
in the days of the World's Fair of 1893, Philip Henrici 
sought for that restful spaciousness and air of elegance 
which were the hallmarks of the great dining places he 
knew back in gay Vienna. This atmosphere remains to- 
day, like that of a cool retreat in the midst of hot, fever- 
ish modernism. Remain, too, the excellent coffee and 
delectable pastries. And on the walls still hang the oil 

59 



paintings that Henrici collected from European salons 
and studios during the course of the years and which now 
give the place a distinctive touch. And for a comprehen- 
sive American cuisine, with such added features as certain 
popular German, French, and Italian specialties, Henrici's 
is the equal of any in Chicago. 

Small wonder, then, that with such coffee, pastries, and 
wholesome food, Henrici's should become the gathering 
place of local and national celebrities. To attempt to name 
them, considering the long history of this restaurant, 
would fill a volume. In the past, to mention only a few, 
came the lata John P. Altgeld, greatest governor of Illi- 
nois; Theodore Drieser, who refers to Henrici's several 
times in his "American Tragedy;" Edward F. Dunne, 
former governor of Illinois, and Carter H. Harrison, for- 
mer mayor of Chicago; Jim Jeflfries, Jack Lait, Ring 
Lardner, George Ade, and a host of others. Practically all 
the famous actors and actresses of the past have eaten 
here at some time or other. At the present time, Edna 
Ferber always dines here when she is visiting her native 
Chicago and has described the restaurant in a number of 
her novels; such stars of the theatrical world as Al Jolson 
and Eddie Cantor, as well as opera singers and popular 
vaudevillians, are regular patrons when playing in Chi- 
cago. Henrici's has also become the last stopping place in 
a sort of gastronomical circuit being followed in recent 
years by Mayor Anton Cermak and other leaders of the 
local Democratic party. They lunch at the Celtic Grill 
in the Hotel Sherman; have dinner in the Pompeiian 
Room at the Congress and wind up at midnight in Hen- 
rici's. The older generation of theatrical stars, too, have 
established a midnight rendezvous here. 

60 



HenricVs American 

71 West Randolph Street 

Open 7 A. M. to 1 A. M. Sundays, 8 A. M. to midnight 

A la carte only — and reasonable 



BLUE FOUNTAIN ROOM: 
HOTEL LA SALLE 

Chafing Dish and Saxophone 

Here you may see those two highly-polished instruments, 
the chafing dish and the saxophone, manipulated by the 
fingers of experts. Quickly and deftly the waiters pre- 
pare the chafing dish specialties of this dining room at 
your table — veal chop saute with bacon and fresh mush- 
rooms a la Melba, breast of capon with Virginia ham and 
rice a la Hongroise, whole breast of baby chicken 
a la Queen Roumanienne, or Lake Superior Jumbo white- 
fish a la Mary Garden. You are thrilled by the Continental 
aspect that these chafing dish activities give the place, and 
you are more thrilled upon eating that which you have 
seen prepared before your eyes. 

Meanwhile, the saxophone is in deft hands also — which 
is a more American feature. The room is alive with the 
intoxicating, but not blatant, music from "Husk" 
O'Hare's orchestra, and couples are tripping the fox trot 
fantastic under the colored lights and around the foun- 

61 



tain of blue water in the center of the room. All is gay, 
and colorful, and elegant — and you feel that you are hav- 
ing a time of it. 

Such is the Blue Fountain Room at dinner hour. But 
during luncheon, the atmosphere is more restrained and 
dignified. Then it is that you find the lovers of good 
victuals collected at the tables — principally bankers and 
capitalists from the La Salle Street financial district. The 
Blue Fountain Room was one of the favorite dining places 
of the late James Patten, the wheat king; here also came 
the late John J. Mitchell, the banker, and the late James 
B. Duke, the tobacco king. At the present time, during 
luncheon, you are likely to run into George M. Reynolds, 
the banker; Henry A. Blair, the traction magnate; and 
Joe Leiter, the millionaire. Here it was, also, that Paul 
Leach, noted political writer of the Chicago 'Daily News, 
held many of the conversations with his friend. General 
Dawes, which led to the writing of *'That Man Dawes,'* 
a recent biography. 

The prices in the Blue Fountain Room are not as high 
as you might expect after reading the above names. 
Therefore, if you want to indulge in a chafing dish dinner, 
we know of no better place in town than the Blue Foun- 
tain Room. 

Incidentally, Hotel La Salle contains the only roof 
garden in the Loop. It is on the top floor, open during 
the summer months only, and you may dine and dance 
from 6 P. M. to 1 A. M. The food is on a par with that 
served in the Blue Fountain Room. Here is a pleasant ad- 
venture during a hot summer's evening, with the streets 
of the downtown district far below you. 

62 



Blue Fountain Room: Hotel La Salle American 

La Salle and Madison Streets 

Open for luncheon, dinner, and after the theatre 

Special blue plate dinners, 8 5 cents. Table d^hote dinner, 
$1.50 

Also a la carte — which is expensive enough 

Cover charge after 9 P. M., 50 cents. Saturdays, $1.00 

Dancing, 6:30 P. M. to 1 A. M. 



L'AIGLON 

La Cuisine Francaise 

Escargots Bourguignonne! Moules mariniere! Pate de foie 
gras! Poulet belle meuniere! Omelette au fromage! Cre- 
vettes mariniere! Filet mignon! All the bewildering and 
ingenious viands of French cookery, the greatest school 
of cookery in the world, are on L*Aiglon's menu, provid- 
ing the connoisseur of table delicacies with an excellent 
opportunity to indulge his inclinations towards refined 
orgy. 

In case you're up in the air as to what all these French 
names mean, your waiter will gladly explain them and 
even arrange a typical dinner of French dishes for you. 
For the waiters here are nothing if not courteous, patient, 
very French, and politely aware of the average Chi- 
cagoan's lack of training in French verbs. 

63 



But Just to post you on the subject beforehand, we'll 
give you the lowdown on what these things mean. Escar- 
gots bourguignonne is nothing but snails with bourguig- 
nonne sauce — and a very delicious dish, too. Moules mari- 
niere are mussels with mariniere sauce, a sauce made of 
white wine, pure cream and — but you'll have to ask John 
Denier, the chef, as to its remaining ingredients. We don't 
know whether it is the mussels or the sauce that makes 
this dish so highly palatable. 

The pate de foie gras — paste of goose liver — at L'Aig- 
lon is something you'll rave about; but the poulet belle 
meuniere — chicken with "'beautiful" meuniere sauce — 
is even better. Omelette au fromage is a cheese omelette, 
and crevettes mariniere are shrimps with mariniere sauce 
— as good as any you'll get this side of Paris. The bearnaise 
sauce served with the filet mignon — tenderloin steak — 
is an appetizing concoction of melted butter, yolk of 
egg, meat jelly and herbs, making your filet mignon a de- 
lightful adventure in eating. 

All these dishes are popular in the cafes of Paris and are 
typically French. And there are others — frogs' legs, Cha- 
teaubriand (thick rump steak, served with mushrooms), 
and Iamb chops Maison d'Or. Also you will find here that 
popular fish, English sole, imported in ice from overseas, 
as well as deep sea trout with marguery sauce. 

Creole cookery, too, has its place in the L'Aiglon cui- 
sine — pompano papillate and Creole gumbo, being two 
of the outstanding items. Teddy Majerus, owner and 
manager of L'Aiglon, used to be connected with the fa- 
mous old La Louisiane restaurant in New Orleans. He 
came to Chicago, however, and worked with Gaston 
Alciatore in the management of the restaurant in South 

64 



Michigan Boulevard which bears the same name as the 
New Orleans institution. Then he went in business for 
himself, opening up L'Aiglon on the near north side. His 
knowledge of Creole cookery, therefore, is quite what it 
should be, but it is his French dishes that draw the crowds, 
for Teddy first obtained his training as a caterer in the 
best cafes of Paris and London before he came to the 
United States. 

Too expensive for the bohemians of Tower Town, in 
which it is located, L'Aiglon is patronized largely by the 
fashionables of the Gold Coast, sleek well-dressed business 
men from the Loop, and celebrities from the stage and the 
opera. Teddy Majerus didn't think it would be ethical to 
give us the names of some of his better-known patrons, so 
you'll have to visit L'Aiglon some evening and find out 
for yourself. 

You'll probably have as hard a time as we did in trying 
to discover ''who's who" among the patrons. For the 
Siamese Twins have nothing on this restaurant, architec- 
turally speaking. It occupies two old brownstone man- 
sions, joined together, one of which was the former home 
of Nelson Barnes, the millionaire broker. All of the rooms 
in the two old houses have been utilized as dining rooms, 
and the restaurant today is as full of private dining rooms, 
supper rooms, reception rooms and dancing rooms as a 
castle on the Rhine. There are also many passageways, 
steps and hallways thrown in for good measure. In view 
of this arrangement, how is one going to find out whether 
some noted actress or millionaire or other notable is pres- 
ent in L'Aiglon? 

Here, however, you'll find excellent French food, a 
Parisian atmosphere, considerate waiters, music and danc- 

6S 



ing, and personable Teddy Majerus. So why go to Paris 
when you have L*Aiglon? 

UAiglon Restaurant Creole -French 

22 East Ontario Street 

Table d'hote dinner, $1.75. Special UAiglon dinner, 
$3.00. Also a la carte 

Open for luncheon, dinner, and supper 

Maitre d'hotel: Theodore Majerus 



GOLD'S 

'The Rector's of the Ghetto'' 

Somebody called Gold's restaurant, in the Jewish quarter 
on the southwest side, the "Rector's of the Ghetto." We 
think no better sobriquet could have been applied to 
Gold's, since it is truly to the Ghetto what Rector's was 
to Broadway. Here, you will find the wealth and the 
beauty and the brains of Chicago's large Jewish quarter, 
gathered before Mr. Gold's inviting board; and you will 
also find many lovers of highly-seasoned foods from 
other parts of town. Celebrities come here too — Irving 
Berlin, Eddie Cantor, Al Jolson and Georgie Jessel, when- 
ever they are in town. Ben Hecht, the novelist, made this 
place a rendezvous when he was a Chicago newspaperman. 
Kosher cooking, of course, prevails at Gold's. And 
when you have kosher cooking you have clean cooking, 

66 



for the word kosher means "clean." But kosher, with its 
limited orthodox significance, is not emphasized at 
Gold's, for their menu is as American as any to be found 
downtown and all of their foods are clean and wholesome 
and expertly prepared. 

Chicken appears to be the main theme in the symphony 
of a Jewish menu. At Gold's, the chopped chicken livers, 
served with a touch of "schmaltz" (goose grease), are 
excellent as an appetizer; the noodle soup is a rich con- 
coction; the chicken "blinzes" with green peas are deserv- 
ing of high praise; the gefiilte fish is the last word; and 
the Russian tea and cookies are just the thing for dessert. 

Gold's is not a Ghetto restaurant in the strict sense of 
the word (the Maxwell Street Ghetto is two blocks 
south), but is a clean, modern, dining parlor, tastefully 
decorated; and the Pompeiian Room upstairs, where wed- 
dings and banquets are held, is comparable to any similar 
room in a Loop hotel. 

We recommend Gold's if you like highly-seasoned 
foods, shot through with plenty of garlic, and served in 
a gay metropolitan atmosphere. For Gold's is situated at 
Halsted Street and Roosevelt Road, the crossroads of 
the Jewish quarter. 

Gold's ] ewish-Avterican 

8 1 West Roosevelt Road 

Open all day and all night 

Table d'hote dinner y $1,25 and $1.35. Also a la carte 

Maitre d'hotel: S. Gold 



67 



IRELAND'S OYSTER HOUSE 

Delicacies From the Deep 

When Chlcagoans think of sea foods they think of Ire- 
land's. For over a generation, Jim Ireland has been pur- 
veying every conceivable form of deep sea delicacy, and 
delicacies from seas not so deep, to diners-out all the way 
from the exclusive Gold Coast to **Back-o'-the-Yards." 
Being an open-all-night establishment, Ireland's is as pop- 
ular with after-theatre crowds as it is with diners before 
the theatre. 

And on Fridays, either for luncheon or dinner, the 
place is packed with people from offices in the Loop and 
with politicians, executives, theatrical people, newspaper- 
men, and big. red-necked, policemen. During the many 
years that his restaurant has been located on North Clark 
Street, a short distance north of the downtown district, 
Jim Ireland has made hundreds of friends and he has kept 
them by virtue of the excellence of his sea foods. 

His oysters arrive every day fresh from the coast and 
are a luscious treat to the palate; his $2.75 lobster shore 
dinner has become an institution in Chicago; his $1.00 
fish dinner is like none other in town; and his jumbo 
frogs' legs, scallops, clam chowder, and halibut, to men- 
tion only a few of his other items, are appetizing beyond 
compare. 

Of outstanding merit, however, is Jim's planked Lake 
Superior whitefish. This sea food is said to be Chicago's 
gift to the nation's edibles, just as Boston has contributed 

6S 



baked beans, New Orleans the pompano, and San Fran- 
cisco chop suey. And nowhere in Chicago can you get 
Lake Superior whitefish prepared more expertly than in 
Ireland's. 

In keeping with the nature of his board, Jim has ar- 
ranged several very delightful dining rooms in his estab- 
lishment. The main dining room, known as the Marine 
Room, is done in the nautical style and is replete with 
shipboard effects. The Lobster Grotto is distinguished 
by the design of a big lobster in colored glass on the ceiling. 
Then there is the Grill Room, with its own ingenious dec- 
orations and atmosphere of camaraderie. Another feature 
of Ireland's is the absence of any closed kitchen, all of the 
cooking being done in the open. As for the waiters, you 
will find them as alert as messenger boys at the Board of 
Trade — and as intelligent. 

Ireland's Oyster House American 

632 North Clark Street 

Open from noon until the roosters crow 

Table d'hote luncheon^ 65 cents. Table d'hote dinner, 
$1.00, Also a la carte 

Maitre d' hotel: J. H, Ireland 



STOCKYARDS INN 

The Wild West 

Although in close proximity to thousands of cattle on the 

69 



hoof, your ears hear nothing, your eyes see nothing, and 
your nose smells nothing of cattle when you have lunch- 
eon in the dining room of the Stockyards Inn. This South 
Halsted Street restaurant is near enough to the stockyards 
to obtain the choicest cuts of fresh meats, and yet far 
enough away from the cattle-pens to make it one of the 
important gastronomical locations in Chicago. 

Ranchowners and stockmen from the wild west ought 
to be good judges of meats. To see these big, sun-tanned 
fellows eating luncheon here every day, and eating it with 
keen relish, should be proof enough that the foods and 
meats served in this establishment receive the stamp of 
their approval. The roast beef is unexcelled for freshness 
and tenderness; the vegetables seem to have come from 
the garden directly to you; and the coffee and pastries are 
on a par with the best cofFee and pastries served in the 
Loop. 

The interior is not an artificial log cabin or ranch house, 
as you might expect with a clientele of cowboys from the 
prairies. It is quite removed from such, being a replica of 
an old English inn, with high oaken panelling and hunt- 
ing prints adorning the walls. The atmosphere is very 
quiet and comfortable, and the service is beyond reproach. 
Women are welcomed. 

The Stockyards Inn American 

42nd and Halsted Streets 

Open for luncheon only 

A la carte — and average in price 

Mattre d*hotel: John Hill 

70 



JULIEN'S 

Frogs' Legs, a la Julien 

Have you ever eaten frogs* legs, the national weakness of 
France? They're a memorable delicacy once you've tasted 
them. But they are especially memorable if you've tasted 
them at Julien's, the oldest French restaurant in town. 
Julien's, it is said, made Chicago frogs' legs conscious. We 
believe it, considering the way **Ma" Julien cooks them, 
giving them that distinctive Julienesque touch which has 
been duplicated nowhere this side of Paris. We'll go fur- 
ther and say that she could even make a name for herself 
in Gay Paree, the home of frogs' legs. 

It was from her late husband, Alex, that Mme. Julien 
learned the secret of preparing this highly delectable 
French viand in so distinctive a style. "Pa" Julien, it was, 
who first introduced frogs' legs into Chicago. That was 
thirteen years ago. After making a name for himself as 
chef in the old Lexington Fiotel when it was in its prime, 
and later in the kitchens of the Hamilton Club, the exclu- 
sive Casino Club and the Blackstone Hotel, Alex Julien 
opened this little French restaurant on the second floor of 
his old red- brick home on Rush Street, in Tower Town, 
and featured frogs' legs. 

Soon fashionable society on the Gold Coast nearby beat 
a path to his door — for Julien was an artist and they came 
to partake of his masterpiece, frogs' legs. But alas, the gods 
became jealous, and *Ta" Julien was removed from this 
earth a few years ago — but not before he had left the 
secrets of his culinary skill to his capable wife. 

71 



"Ma" Julien does all the cooking herself now and we 
defy you to point out any difference between her frogs' 
legs and those that were made by *Ta'* Julien. The same 
challenge applies to those other two famed items of the 
Maison Julien — scallops and lettuce salad with Julien's 
original French dressing. Mme. Julien instills nothing less 
than magic into her salad dressing — a ghostly touch of 
garlic or something — which makes it an exquisite adven- 
ture in gastronomy. The story is told that an Armour 
agent once offered "Pa" Julien, who created this dressing, 
$15,000 for its recipe and that he refused, maintaining 
that its secret should never go out of his family. 

Small wonder, then, that famous and wealthy people 
may be seen frequently — top-hats and ermines and all — 
at the Julien board, partaking of the frogs' legs or the 
delicious salad. "Ma" Julien says she doesn't know who 
they are half the time, adding regretfully that she's never 
kept a guest book. The former French consul, Antonin 
Barthelemy, came here often and his successor. Count 
Charles de Fontnouvelle is following his example. Here, 
also, come such gourmets of the town as County Judge 
Edmund K. Jarecki, Postmaster Arthur C. Leuder, Su- 
perior Court Judge Joseph B. David, and Scott Durant, 
the millionaire. 

There is a friendly, home-like atmosphere about Ju- 
lien's that you'll like. The tables are covered with white 
oil-cloth; paintings of the French countryside adorn the 
walls; "Papa" Joffre smiles down from a photograph; sev- 
eral "tin hats" from the late war hang above a door 
frame; the French tri-colors and American stars and 
stripes decorate the bay-window and, last but not least, 

72 



Mme. Julien's two grown daughters, Marie and Renee, 
serve you most charmingly and efficiently. 

Since "Ma" Julien only serves at long tables in board- 
ing-house fashion, and since there is only room for ninety- 
nine persons (and the chairs are always occupied), she 
asks you to call her up first — ^Delaware 0040 — and reserve 
a place. The frogs' legs and scallops, by the way, are only 
served on Tuesdays and Fridays — with the $1.50 and 
$2.00 dinners. You may also obtain these same dishes at 
the Saturday luncheon. A table d'hote luncheon is served 
each day between 11 A. M. and 2 P. M. for 65 cents and 
on Sundays for 8 5 cents. We highly recommend Ju- 
lien's. 

Julien's French 

1009 Rush Street 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

Table d^hote only 

Mai tr esse d' hotel: Madame Julien 



HARDING'S COLONIAL ROOM 

'^The Famous Corned Beef of John P." 

Here we have the home of that great American dish — 
corned beef and cabbage. Only John P. Harding and his 
chefs know the secret of concocting a corned-beef dinner 
such as you get here — tender, tasty slices of red corned 

73 



beef, laid over a heaping mound of fresh green boiled 
cabbage, and the whole flanked by boiled potatoes, pars- 
ley-buttered and as big as a policeman's fist. After feast- 
ing on this famed Harding dinner, you too feel the urge 
to write a limerick over it, just as J. P. McEvoy, of "The 
Potter's" fame, did. 

"The famous corned beef of John P. 
Is a succulent delicacy . . . 
Why, it's England's belief 
It was Harding's corned beef 
That practically set Ireland free." 

Another well-known author, Julian Street, who is also 
one of the most fastidious of epicures, writes of Harding's 
corned beef in the Saturday Evening Post. Pointing out 
that "certain items from the old American cuisine, the 
cuisine of our forefathers, are now found almost exclu- 
sively in private homes," he indicates corned beef as an 
exception. "Thus the several Harding lunch rooms of 
Chicago," he adds, "are famous for their corned-beef 
hash, actually supplying it wholesale to some other es- 
tablishments." What he means, of course, is Harding's 
corned beef and cabbage and not their "corned-beef 
hash." 

When you can get this old-fashioned American dish in 
an atmosphere redolent of Colonial America, your pleas- 
ure is well-nigh complete. We know of no more charming 
dining room in town than Harding's Colonial Room, on 
the second floor of their big eating establishment in South 
Wabash Avenue. A pretty young damsel, costumed ap- 
propriately in Colonial style, greets you at the elevator 
and conducts you to a table where an equally pretty and 

74 



well-mannered waitress takes your order. These girls, 
rosy-cheeked and young, are working their way through 
college and are well-bred and intelligent. 

Don't get the impression that here you can obtain only 
corned beef and cabbage. No, their menu is replete with 
other viands as notable — the roast beef is the best in the 
city, the steaks and chops with big baked Idaho potatoes 
are unexcelled, the sugar-cured baked ham is memorable 
and the pastries are as toothsome as can be found, especi- 
ally the Colonial Special, consisting of cake with vanilla 
ice cream filling, covered with hot caramel sauce and 
whole pecans and topped with whipped cream. 

You would be missing something if you failed to eat a 
corned-beef dinner in Harding's Colonial Room. No- 
where in the place can you detect any odor of cabbage 
being cooked. All is elegance, charm, and pleasure — con- 
siderably added to by the young lady who softly plays 
appropriate airs on the baby grand piano. 

Harding's Colonial Room American 

21 South Wabash Avenue 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

A la carte only — and surprisingly reasonable 

Maitre d'hotel: Martin /. Harding 



RED STAR INN 

Bavaria oit North Clark Street 

Decorative beer steins, leaded windows bearing Teutonic 

75 



coats of arms, wooden table-tops scoured to the point of 
whiteness, and fat waiters with a German accent as thick 
as one of Papa Gallauer's liver dumplings, together with 
a menu the equal of that of any first-class cafe in Berlin, 
combine to make the Red Star Inn one of the most interest- 
ing of the German restaurants in a city full of good Ger- 
man restaurants. Situated for over thirty years in the heart 
of the German district on the north side, "Zum Rothen 
Stern" is unique in that it is a replica of some old tavern in 
Bavaria — in construction as well as in interior decorations. 
The only diJ6ference is that it hasn't got the real Miinchener 
or Pilsner. 

But the excellence of its food makes up for this loss. 
Francis C. Coughlin, writing in the Chicagoan about the 
menu in this place, says: "One cannot go into detail over 
Red Star menus. It is a task comparable to going into 
detail over a civilization." And so it is. Suffice to say that 
all the great dishes of German cookery, second only to 
French cookery in variety and palatableness, are here pur- 
veyed in a style that has brought the great and near great, 
as well as the rich and not so rich, of Chicago to Papa Gal- 
lauer's board. 

Papa Gallauer, with his white Van Dyke, is himself an 
institution. A native of Cologne, Germany, he is the 
perfect German host. Observe him any evening as he goes 
among the tables, welcoming friends, offering suggestions, 
or receiving complaints — which, by the way, are few 
and far between. 

His beaming personality is in part responsible for such 
frequent visitors to the Red Star Inn as General Milton J. 
Foreman and General Frank R. Schwengel, two of 
Chicago's outstanding military leaders; Senator J. Hamil- 

76 



ton Lewis, of Illinois; Colonel Robert R. McCormick, 
publisher of the Chicago Tribune; Carter H. Harrison, 
former mayor; Richard Henry Little, the columnist; 
Judge Theodore Brentano, pioneer Chicagoan; Burt 
Massee, the millionaire explorer; Judge John R. Caverley, 
who sentenced Leopold and Loeb; Harold F. McCormick, 
the capitalist and former opera "angel;'* Edward F. 
Dunne, former governor; and Judge Joseph Sabath, of 
divorce court fame. 

Representatives of the artistic and literary side of 
Chicago life also foregather here — Fred Biesel and his 
wife, Francis Strain, the painters; Vincent Starrett, the 
bibliophile and writer; Ruth Jameson, another writer; 
Vladimir Janowicz, the painter; and Lloyd Lewis, the 
dramatic critic. 

We could toss oflf a great many more names of Chicago 
notables who dine here but these will give you some idea 
of the position which this place occupies in Chicago res- 
taurant life. It's the food that attracts them — and the 
quiet, old-world atmosphere, and Papa Gallauer. And 
don't forget the special Easter Bock on draught — almost 
as good as the real thing. 

Ked Star Inn German- American 

152^ North Clark Street 

Open from 10 A.M. to 1 A. M. 

Table d'hote luncheon, 85 cents. A la carte dinner, 
reasonable 

Maitre d'hotel: Carl Gallauer 

77 



BON VIVANT 

And What Lobsters! 

Henri's lobster dinner has become an institution on the 
south side — and should, by rights, be an institution for 
the whole town. It would be if M. Henri Delaloye would 
do a little more advertising and try to get people to come 
here from other sections of the city than just Hyde Park, 
Woodlawn and the University of Chicago district. For 
over ten years now the Four Hundred of Hyde Park so- 
ciety — wealthy residents of the old mansions, hotels, 
co-ops, apartment houses and apartment hotels of Hyde 
Park Boulevard and the *'Hotel Coast'* east of the Illinois 
Central tracks — have been coming to this humble little 
red-brick house among the stately old residences of Lake 
Park Avenue and partaking of lobsters and oysters and 
other French delicacies that are hard to duplicate any- 
where in town. 

But maybe if Henri advertised more widely he would 
be spoiling a good thing. Anyway, we think he'll pardon 
us if we mention his restaurant in this book; after all, 
we're supposed to hunt out places like this and tell the 
world about them. The lobsters, coming twice a week 
from Maine and Boston, are served with an eight-course 
dinner, and you may have your choice of three roasts — 
squab, steak with mushrooms or roast duckling. Henri 
himself presides over the kitchen and the perfection of his 
lobsters are the result of experiences as a cook in his 
native Switzerland, several noted cafes in Paris, the 

78 



Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York and the Sherman 
and Blackstone Hotels in Chicago. 

Equally delicious are his oysters, which he serves during 
the traditional **R" months. He has invented a special 
butter which permeates the oysters during the cooking 
process and which makes them the talk of the town. 
Gene Morgan, conductor of "Hit or Miss" column in the 
Chicago Daily News, has paid tribute to these bi-valves 
in a recent poem. 

Oysters A La Bon Vivant 

The "R" months all are star months 

At the Bon Vivant 's rich board, 
For then we feast on oysters 

Which but gods could once afford. 

Reclining in a roomy shell 

And warmly dressed in red — 
Alas for Mr. Oyster! He 

Must leave this kingly bed. 

Bon Vivants dine at Bon Vivant. 

Its fame has travelled far, 
And when I dine there I'm content 

With all the things that "R". 

When the oysters are out of season, Henri brings out 
his soft shell crabs — and you would have to travel far 
to feast on crabs like these. There is, too, Henri's special 
French dressing for his salads — something to rhapsodize 
over. You will like the Bon Vivant because the special- 
ties are so marvelous, the service so individual and consid- 
erate, and the atmosphere so much like one of those little 

79 



cafes in a Paris by-way — which, if you have ever been 
to Paris, you know are a real deUght. 

The Bon Yivant French 

4} 67 Lake Park Avenue 

Open from 6 P. M. to 9 P. M. 

Table d'hote only. Dinner, $1.50. Lobster dinner, $1.75. 
Maitre d'hotel: Henri Delaloye 



RAINBO SEA FOOD GROTTO 

Ship Ahoy! 

Out of the crowds, automobiles, street-cars and shop win- 
dows of busy South Dearborn Street, you step into the 
cabin of the palatial yacht, S. S. *'Rainbo," somewhere 
out, say, in mid-Atlantic. A handsome officer, gold braid 
and all, pilots you to a table on *'The Deck," as the main 
dining room at the rear is called. Painted blue waves and 
cumuH clouds fill the north wall, beyond a real ship's 
rail; life preservers, bearing the name S. S. "Rainbo," 
are tied to the rail; a ship's clock, barometer and shiny 
ship's bell, as well as numerous portholes, adorn the east 
wall; doors are marked **Captain," 'Tirst Officer," 
"Chief Engineer," "Chief Steward," "Galley" and 
"Storeroom;" real ship's lamps hang from the striped 
marine awning overhead; and throughout the dining 
room there is the high treble sound of wind whistling 

80 



through rigging. Everything is authentically nautical 
at the Rainbo Sea Food Grotto and all that's lacking is the 
rocking of the deck — for which thank the Lord and 
Gus Mann. 

**Skipper" Gus Mann, who made a name for himself 
in the restaurant world as proprietor of the famous 
Cafe Zinkand in San Francisco in the days before the 
earthquake, has come into greater glory since open- 
ing up this picturesque sea food restaurant in Chicago's 
Loop. His S. S. "Rainbo" is now "safely anchored in the 
harbor of high public esteem," as Frances Warren Baker, 
a local magazine writer, put it. 

Look over Gus Mann's varied and appetite-provoking 
menu. "If it swims we have it," is Gus's slogan. Implor- 
ing you to eat more fish, his menu notes: 

"At 5 A. M. in waters blue — 
The same day it is served to you." 

Who wouldn't order Louisiana jumbo frogs after read- 
ing this: "Visiting New Orleans without ordering Frogs 
is like passing up beans in Boston. The delicacy of a quail, 
combined with the game flavor of a pheasant — that's 
what a Louisiana Frog tastes like as prepared here." Of 
the Coney Island clam chowder, the menu says: "No 
magnifying glass needed to find the clams." The oysters, 
Waldorf style, are prepared with "chili sauce, bread 
crumbs, creamery butter and baked in the shell on a 
bed of salt, retaining its ocean tang." The Mammy style 
corn pones were "Al Jolson's inspiration;" and as for 
the lemon pie: "We paid a young fortune for the recipe; 
please don't ask us to reveal it." The spaghetti Caruso is 
"a concoction that the famous artist loved to prepare 

81 



himself. Imported spaghetti cooked to the proper tender- 
ness in rich beef stock, chicken Hvers, mushrooms and 
genuine Parmesan cheese. Ah, what a flavor!" 

Proof that Gus Mann is not exaggerating the quality 
of his cuisine may be found here any evening at the dinner 
hour — prominent politicians, theatrical stars, society 
fashionables and all other well-travelled people who 
ought to know good sea food when they taste it, are in 
abundance among the diners. Ashton Stevens, son of 
California, waxes laudatory over the California crabs 
served here, saying they ''have thighs as thick and meaty 
as an old-fashioned ballet dancer's.*' Novelist Rupert 
Hughes, another Californian, drops in to see Gus Mann 
whenever he is in town. Paul Ash, the jazz king, who 
used to play the piano for Gus Mann in the old Cafe 
Zinkand days, is a frequent visitor. And there are scads 
of other notables. 

Here, then, you may revel in oysters, deviled crabs, 
deep sea scallops, baby lobsters, planked Lake Superior 
whitefish, fried Virginia shrimps, Boston mackerel, 
broiled Delaware shad roe, as well as in the most savory 
of steaks and chops and German potato pancakes and, 
for breakfast, delicious sausages and wheat cakes. Every- 
thing is wholesome and satisfying — and why wouldn't 
it be, with Axel Kastrup, noted throughout Europe and 
the United States for his sea food dishes, presiding over 
the "galley"? We heartily recommend a meal aboard the 
S. S. ''Rainbo" in South Dearborn Street. 

Rainho Sea Food Grotto American 

117 South Dearborn Street 

82 



open for breakfast, luncheon and dinner. Closed Sun- 
days and holidays 

Plate lunch, 50 cents. Table d*hote dinner, $1,50, Also 
a la carte 

Maitre d'hotel: Gus Mann 



PAUL'S 

After the Ball is Over 

When the performance is over and the theatre signs on 
Randolph Street go out, and you're in the mood for an 
after-theatre supper; when you're tired of the regular 
dining places along the Rialto; when the night clubs 
and the food they serve have no lure; when you're fed 
up on the Loop and its taxicabs and policemen and lights; 
when the night session of the convention or meeting has 
come to an end at last, thank goodness; or when the 
ball is over, you go to Paul's. 

For Paul's is the ideal place to take care of the wants 
of the inner man during the midnight hours. Located in 
an old mansion on Michigan Boulevard, a mile or so south 
of the Loop, Paul's has been for years a popular gather- 
ing-place of the town's bons vivants and gourmets after 
the theatre. Notables of the stage, the sport world and 
of political life are seen here often. The last time Tito 
Schipa, the opera singer, ate here he brought along his 
friend, Renato Gardini, the great Italian wrestler. Primo 

83 



Camera, the fighter, has eaten here, too. And there are 
plenty of others, both of local and national fame. 

Not a little of the attractiveness of this place is to be 
found in the chef, Frank Simonetti, who used to be cook 
aboard one of Sir Thomas Lipton's yachts. Frank's skill 
in the cooking of those highly edible specialties of the 
house — Risotto Milanaise au Saffron, either with truffles 
or mushrooms; Scallopine a la Monte Vesuvius; whole 
chicken en casserole or broiled jumbo squab with jelly — 
explains why people like to come here. Too, another draw- 
ing card is Signor Paul Bergamini, the proprietor, who is 
a host par excellence. He has been a restaurateur in Chi- 
cago for many years, and has hundreds of friends all over 
town. 

Although this is strictly a place for food, Paul's also 
features what it calls the Club Galant, a small room set 
aside for music and dancing and an occasional floor show. 
There is no extra cover charge in the Club Galant and you 
may amuse yourself in this charmingly decorated room 
from 9 P. M. until closing. The menu is sufficiently large 
to be interesting, displaying a dozen Italian specialties, 
and the waiters are trained in the best Continental tradi- 
tions. Mr. Bergamini's wife is a native of Switzerland, 
and sometimes you may get Swiss viands if you know 
what you want and the management is in the mood. 
Paul's is a thoroughly worth-while place. 



Paul's Italian- American 

1715 South Michigan Boulevard 

Open from luncheon until the first peek of dawn 

84 



special table d'hote dinner, $1.50, Also a la carte 
Mattre d'hotel: Paul Bergamini 



LITTLE JACK'S 

Little Jack of Madison Street 

Twenty-five years ago "Little Jack" Levin sold sand- 
wiches in a small West Madison Street shop to students 
at the Lewis Institute and numerous medical schools that 
abounded on the west side. Today, further west on Mad- 
ison Street, "Little Jack" Levin conducts one of the 
leading restaurants in Chicago, the rendezvous of Chi- 
cago's officialdom and the bright particular star of gour- 
mets from all over town. It was food, the best quality of 
food prepared in the best possible manner, and food only, 
that put Little Jack's on the gastronomic map of Chi- 
cago. 

This house offers no specialties. "Every item is a 
specialty with us," explains Jack Levin. His menu is large 
and varied and tempting with steaks, chops, sea foods, 
poultry, salads and pastry. The Sirloin Steak a la Little 
Jack is tender, juicy and done to the proper turn; the im- 
ported Russian caviar is something not to be missed; 
chicken stew, Spanish style en casserole, as served here, 
cannot be duplicated; and the broiled jumbo whitefish is 
on a par with that of the best sea food restaurants in 
town. Little Jack's features daily specials as well as a va- 
ried assortment of pies, cakes and pastries from its own 

85 



ovens. The outstanding impression you get from Little 
Jack's is food of fresh wholesome quahty, expertly pre- 
pared. 

Small wonder, then, that city officials, from the Mayor 
down, and politicians of every type and degree, have 
made Little Jack's their rendezvous. Here, any evening, 
you're likely to run into them — Mayor Anton Cermak, 
Commissioner of Police John Alcock, Sheriff William 
D. Meyering, Coroner Herman N. Bundesen, State's 
Attorney John A. Swanson, Bailiff Al Horan, Presi- 
dent W, R. James of the West Park Board, Governor 
Louis L. Emmerson, Former Commissioner of PoHce 
Morgan A. Collins, Colonel A. L. Brodie of the American 
Legion, Police Captain John Prendergast, and Coroner's 
Physician L M. Fienberg. Stars of the newspaper and 
theatrical world come here too. It seems that everybody 
of any importance in the official life of Chicago knows 
Little Jack Levin, who has a flair for hospitality hard 
to match. 

You'll find this place a real treat and if it be a hot sum- 
mer's evening, the atmosphere of the various dining rooms 
will be air-cooled; if you come in your car there is park- 
ing space at the rear of the establishment. And don't 
forget to shake hands with "Little Jack" himself. He'll 
be glad to see you. 



Little Jack's American 

3175 West Madison Street 



Open all the time 

86 



Plate lunch, 50 cents. Table d^hote dinner, $1,00. Also 
a la carte and surprisingly reasonable 

Mattre d^hotel: Jack Levin 



MERCHANDISE MART 
RESTAURANTS 

10,000 Persons a Day ^ 

By all means visit one of the Merchandise Mart restau- 
rants — preferably the Coflfee Shop. Try it just for the 
sake of contrast with the many quiet little restaurants 
you have been dining in around town. It's a gustatory 
adventure you'll not easily forget. And don't be afraid 
your stomach will suffer as a result of this excursion, for 
the food served in the Merchandise Mart restaurants is of 
surprisingly good quality considering such a vast output 
— they have facilities for handling 10,000 persons a day. 

The Coffee Shop is the largest of its kind in the 
world. Now we've been and said it. Smile indulgently if 
you must at the familiar Chicago boast, ''largest in the 
world;" but we'll wager that you will believe it once 
you put foot inside this vast, typically American, 
eating hall. What other coffee shop in the country 
has over 800 feet of table-high lunch counter and 68 
additional feet of soda fountain counter? Smile, too, at 
this dragging in of figures, but we think they give some 
idea of the magnitude of the restaurant. 

Here is the apex of quantity production in food; here 
is quick and efficient service; here are all the latest devices 
and contraptions of the up-to-date restaurant. The great 

87 



distance from far counters to the main kitchen is over- 
come by means of a "service" kitchen. The big room is 
pleasantly decorated, the seats are comfortable, and there 
is plenty of "elbow room." In short, here Is the modern 
American coflfee shop In Its highest state of perfection. 

Naturally, the Coflfee Shop receives the heaviest "play" 
of the Merchandise Mart restaurants. Wliat greater con- 
venience could be found in the way of eating for the 
thousands of workers in the building — which, by the way, 
is the largest building in the world In point of floor space 
— than this Coflfee Shop on the ground floor, overlooking 
North Bank Way and the Chicago River? The plate 
luncheon is the most popular item on the menu, with 
sandwiches of all kinds running next in demand. The 
tea room Is on the mezzanine floor above. 

For executives and other bigwigs of the wholesale firms 
in the building, there are two excellent dining rooms — the 
Governor's Room and the Old English Grill, each seating 
about 300 persons. The Governor's Room is very formal, 
luxurious and quiet, while the Old English Grill Is tavern- 
like, with Its oaken walls and beamed ceiling. And don't 
forget, this Grill Is for men only — and all the waitresses 
are blonde. What more could a good substantial American 
go-getting salesman want than to have a pretty blonde 
waitress serve him his steak and French fried! The Grill 
offers a special 75 cent club luncheon, as well as an a la 
carte menu containing Chef Pierre Berard's recommenda- 
tions'—a feature on the menus of all the other restaurants 
in the building. 

And to think that only one hundred years ago there 
stood on the site of the Merchandise Mart a little old log 

88 



cabin, Wolf Tavern, purveying food and drink to the 
villagers of the little settlement across the river. 

Merchandise Mart Restaurants American 

Wells Street and North Bank Way 

Coffee Shop open from 1 1 AM, to 2:30 P.M. Tea Room 
from 11 A.M. to 3:00 P.M. Governor's Room from 
1 1 A.M. to 8:30 P.M. Old English Grill from 1 1 A.M. to 
2:30 P.M. 

A la carte, table d'hote, plate lunches — all reasonable 



WEISS' 

La Cuisine Yiennoise 

Although you may have nothing to do whatever with 
cloaks and suits in wholesale quantities, yet it is eminently 
worth your while to trek over to Chicago's wholesale dis- 
trict at the west end of the Loop for a meal at the Weiss 
restaurant. Alex Weiss has been caterer to the town's 
wholesalers for over twenty years, his clientele being made 
up largely of the executives and heads of the wholesale 
firms in the district. 

Viennese cooking is featured at this place, the kitchen 
being in the capable hands of Chef Theodore Huber, a 
product of Austro-Hungarian restaurants. Therefore, the 
fresh paprika pike with steamed potato is worth the trip 
over here; the Hungarian lamb goulash with baked 
noodles makes you love this place; the gefiilte fish is in- 

89 



comparable; the matzos pancake with currant jelly can- 
not be praised too highly; and the apple strudel is a des- 
sert that eminently deserves to be called dessert. The 
French and Danish pastries come from the restaurant's 
ovens and are always fresh. 

The establishment is divided into several dining rooms, 
all decorated in good style and with no artificial effects to 
catch the eye of the passing pedestrian. Weiss' reputation 
for good food is sufficient advertising. The main dining 
room is on the first floor, a popular-priced lunch counter 
is in the basement, and the second floor contains the tea 
room. 

Weiss Kestatirant Austro-Htmgarian and American 

208 West Adams Street 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

Mattre d^ hotel: Alex Weiss 



GIRO'S GRILL 

Resort of Fashion 

As everyone knows, there is a Giro's in Paris, one in Monte 
Carlo, one in Deauville, and one in London. But not 
everyone knows that there is also a Giro's in Ghicago. It, 
too, is a swanky place, the haunt of Chicago's beau 
monde, just as the European places are the rendezvous of 
fashionables. The London and Ghicago establishments, if 
you care to know, have no connection with each other or 

90 



with the French establishments of the same name. 

We don't know which of the following is the reason 
for the frequent presence of Chicago millionaires, dowa- 
gers, debutantes, and dandies in Giro's during dinner 
time. It might be due to the excellent French cuisine; or 
maybe to the fact that the exclusive Opera Club happens 
to be located on the floor above; or to its delightfully in- 
timate atmosphere. The restaurant is small and cozy and 
unique in decor. Also, it is conveniently located near the 
Gold Coast. Last, but not least, its prices are alluringly 

high. 

Anyway, for whatever reason. Giro's Grill is foremost 
of the resorts of fashion. If you're a connoisseur of auto- 
mobiles and wish to observe the most luxurious foreign 
models, walk past Giro's any evening during the winter 
months and feast your eyes on the cars parked at the curb. 

Why winter months? Because Giro's follows the social 
season and is closed during the torrid days of summer. 
Having a small but very exclusive clientele, this place 
would be empty in summer when everybody who is any- 
body in the social world is out of town. 

Then you wouldn't be seeing such frequent diners as 
John Borden, the millionaire explorer, and his authoress- 
wife, Courtney Borden; Cyrus Hall McCormick, head 
of the International Harvester Company; Burt Massee, 
another millionaire explorer, and Mrs. Massee; the two 
opera singers, Gyrena Van Gorden and Edith Mason; and 
Georgio Polacco, the opera conductor. Of course, these are 
only a few of the wealthy and celebrated people who come 
here. There are many more. 

As for the decor, Giro's is tasteful and novel, the motif 
being that of a submarine garden. Fishes in gay colors and 

91 



decorative undersea plants are painted on the walls. In- 
verted lighting is used here by suspending bowls of gold 
fishes under the electric bulbs — which must be rather 
hard on the fishes. The whole atmosphere of the room is 
charmingly intimate, quiet, novel, and colorful. 

The a la carte menu is inviting, both in variety of dishes 
and quality, and the service is suave and Continental. 
Try Giro's some evening when your purse is sufficiently 
fat. And you needn't go formally, although you would 
not be out of place if you did. 

Giro's Grill Franco- American 

ISWestWaltonPlace 

Table d'hote luncheon, $1.00. Table d'hote dinner, $2.50 
Also a la carte — and pretty high 

Open for luncheon and dinner 



MAISONETTE RUSSE 

Introducing Colonel Yaschenko 

Meet Colonel Vladimir Yaschenko, formerly of the Rus- 
sian White Army, formerly of the Petrushka Club on 
Michigan Boulevard, and now the man responsible for 
admirable Russian food specialties at the Maisonette 
Russe. Polite, gentlemanly, suave, having all the refine- 
ment of a Russian reared amid the military pomp of the 
Czars, Colonel Yaschenko reflects true Continental hos- 
pitality as he welcomes you into his Russian restaurant, 

92 



located in an impressive old town house on Lake Shore 
Drive, facing Lincoln Park. 

The room is appropriately decorated in the Muscovite 
manner. The hangings are of dark blue, with touches of 
orange here and there; shelves at intervals contain old 
pewter pieces made especially for the Maisonette Russe (so 
we are told) by exiled Russian officers in Paris — pewter 
vases, weddiag cups, loving cups, and long '^dipper" cups. 
Mme. Yaschenko says these "dipper" cups were like the 
ones they used to drink wine out of in Russia. As a final 
bit of atmosphere, and adding considerably to your pleas- 
ure in this place, there is music and entertainment by the 
Gypsy Trio, in Russian costume, quite dashing and color- 
ful. 

As for the victuals, see Colonel Yaschenko! He will 
initiate you into the mysteries of Russian dishes; and 
when the meal is over you'll find they are not so mysteri- 
ous after all. For example, there is borscht — a thick red 
soup made of beets, rich in flavor; Bitochki a la Scobeleflf, 
which is chopped chicken cutlets with truffle sauce; a 
lamb barbecued on skewers and known as Shashlik a la 
Kars, and Tournedeau Rossini, similar to filet mignon. 
And there are lots of other delicacies on the menu. 

In summer time, you may dine in a truly Continental 
manner at the Maisonette Russe, for Colonel Yaschenko 
has tables in the garden among the flowers and shrubbery, 
where luncheon and dinner are served. Gay-colored um- 
brellas are mounted over the tables and all is quite Eu- 
ropean and sophisticated. 

Maisonette Russe Russian 

2800 Sheridan Road 

93 



open for luncheon and dinner 

Both table d'hote and a la carte. Table d*hote dinner , $1,50 
Sunday dinner, $2.00 

Mattre d'hotel: Colonel Vladimir Yaschenko 



BOSTON OYSTER HOUSE 

Ancient, But New 

In 1875, when men were men and women were women, 
and Chicago was rebuilding itself after the great fire of 
two years earlier, Colonel John S. Wilson founded Wil- 
son's Oyster House in the basement of a building at 
Clark and Madison Streets. Then he changed the name to 
the Boston Oyster House — a name which has remained to 
this day. His specialty was shell fish. Colonel John S. 
Wilson now occupies a place in local history as the first 
caterer to serve live lobsters in this region. His restaurant 
and his lobsters soon attracted attention and in time the 
Boston Oyster House became the rendezvous of the Four 
Hundred of that day. 

The cashier was a young man of likable personality. 
His name was Charles E. Rector. Later he became man- 
ager of the establishment. Then he gave up his connection 
with Colonel Wilson to accept a position as head caterer 
for a railroad. Some years later he opened a basement 
oyster house of his own at Clark and Monroe Streets. 
This place soon eclipsed the Boston Oyster House in popu- 
larity and Rector's became the Mecca of Chicago's night 

94 



life. Seeking new worlds to conquer, Rector opened a 
restaurant in New York City and . . . but need we go on? 
After all, we're writing about the Boston Oyster House. 

Then, in 1899, Harry C. Moir became manager of the 
Boston Oyster House and the old eight-story Morrison 
Hotel that rose above it. Prominent citizens continued to 
foregather here. Writers came. That old Kentucky philos- 
opher, Opie Read, sat here and talked with friends in the 
days when he was a newspaperman and before he be- 
came famous as a novelist. Came also Senator James 
Hamilton Lewis, whiskers and all, and Edward F. Dunne, 
before he became governor of Illinois. Finley Peter Dunne, 
creator of **Mr. Dooley," and the late Fred A. Chappell, 
writer and philosopher, were other frequenters. And 
there are many who recall the International Live Stock 
shows of those days, when the stockmen and cowboys 
from the wild west would wind up a night amid the 
bright lights of the Loop with a 6 A. M. breakfast at the 
Boston, consisting of two dozen oysters on the half shell. 

This place continued through the years in its basement 
location. In 1925 a new Boston Oyster House blossomed 
forth under the auspices of Gus and Fred Mann, well- 
known Chicago restaurateurs. It was fitted out to look 
like a ship's cabin — at a cost of $200,000. But alas, the 
Mann brothers were unable to get a return on their in- 
vestment and the Boston Oyster House once more fell 
back into the hands of Harry Moir. 

Today, the Boston Oyster House is an elegant basement 
dining room of the Morrison — sans marine trappings. 
All that remains of the original establishment is the name. 
True, sea food is still served, with lobsters as a specialty, 
but Chicagoans do not go to this place for sea food or 

95 



lobsters as they did in the old days. There are too many 
other sea food restaurants in town now. 

But we don't wish to imply that the sea foods here are 
second rate; you will find them as good as any in Chicago. 
And there are other savory dishes — for example, Pearl's 
Special, consisting of porterhouse steak and baked potato 
and named after Pearl Kuntz, who has been head waitress 
here for over ten years. They have a large menu, the food 
is wholesome, the waitresses are fleet of foot and polite, 
the surroundings restful; and, should you come here, you 
may tell your friends back home in Chillicothe that 
you've dined in Chicago's famous Boston Oyster House. 

The Boston Oyster House American 

21 South Clark Street 

Open for breakfast, luncheon and dinner 

Table d'hote and a la carte — average prices 

Maitresse d'hotel: Pearl Kuntz 



LINCOLN PARK REFECTORY 
Pot Roast Among the Trees 

After a hot, feverish, August day in the Loop, when the 
skyscrapers and the street-cars and the dust have sapped 
your energy, there is no greater relief than to take your 
wife, or your children, or your lady friend, to dinner in 
the Lincoln Park Refectory, an open-air eating place 

96 



among the trees of Lincoln Park, overlooking the pleasant 
sunset-tinted waters of the park lagoon. 

Here, you may have your delicious pot roast, with 
noodles and cheese, amid the cooling breezes of the sum- 
mer evening; the planked Lake Superior whitefish tastes 
twice as good under the summer stars; and the Lincoln 
Park special minute steak is something to remember when 
you eat it against a background of dewy evening trees, 
boats on a lagoon and a faraway horizon of lighted apart- 
ment hotels. All is poetry and romance at the Lincoln 
Park Refectory. 

For thirty years, Chicagoans of high and low degree 
have been dining on the open terraces of this establish- 
ment. It is a favorite place for women's clubs; "Kaflfee 
Klatches** are common here during July and August after- 
noons; Gold Coast women come here for tea; at dinner 
you'll find many of Chicago's substantial business men 
and civic leaders among the diners. George Schneider, the 
well-known lawyer and bibliophile, says that it is the 
most European-like restaurant in Chicago — and he ought 
to know, being a veteran globe-trotter. 

Caspar Brauer, proprietor of the Lincoln Park Refec- 
tory, is one of the old-time restaurateurs of Chicago and 
is ever solicitous of the gastronomic whims of his patrons. 
Many of them are old friends of the Brauer brothers, 
whose Cafe Brauer on State Street, near Van Buren, was 
a leading restaurant of the Gay Nineties. Paul died a few 
years ago and Caspar is carrying on the family catering 
traditions most successfully in this dining place among 
the trees. 

The menu is comprehensive, featuring sea foods, steaks 
and chops, cold dishes, roasts, poultry, sandwiches and 

97 



cold soft drinks; the waitresses are attentive; the cooking 
is expert; and the surroundings, as we told you before but 
which can bear repetition, are perfect for a pleasurable 
evening dinner. 

Lincoln Park Refectory American 

Lincoln Park, foot of Center Street 

Open from 10 A. M. to 9 P. M., between May 1 5 and 
September 1 5 

Plate luncheon, 75 cents. Table d^hote dinner, $1.50 
Also a la carte 

Maitre d'botel: Caspar Brauer 



PARKER'S 

For Hyde Parkers — and Others 

Mr. and Mrs. Charles G. Parker have been caterers to the 
south side ever since that day when Charles A. Comiskey, 
"The Old Roman" of baseball fame, came into their 
delicatessen store at 36th Street and Cottage Grove Ave- 
nue and ordered a sandwich. That was over thirty-five 
years ago. Comiskey brought his friends to the Parker 
store and soon the proprietors had to change it into a 
restaurant. The food was of the best quality and well 
cooked. When the neighborhood changed its complexion, 
the Parkers moved farther south to Hyde Park. They now 
have an attractive restaurant on Hyde Park Boulevard, 

98 



across the street from the historic Hyde Park Hotel, 
serving food of the highest standards and skillfully 
cooked. This was the favorite dining place of the late 
Chicago novelist, Clara Louise Burnham, and Charles S. 
Deneen, former senator of Illinois, comes in often. The 
oyster cocktails, fried chicken, clam chowder, and lemon 
cream pies are worth going a long distance for. An excel- 
lent dinner of English beef stew with pickled walnuts can 
be had here. Parker's caters to genteel old-time residents 
of genteel old-time Hyde Park and is also patronized by 
University of Chicago students and professors — as well as 
by lovers of good meals from everywhere. Women are 
not permitted to smoke. yVViA^i.-iA a 

Parker's American 

1510 Hyde Park Boulevard 

Open for luncheon and dinner 

Table d'hote luncheon, 60 cents. Table d'hote dinner, 
$1.00 

Maitresse d'hotel: Anna Flagg 



ROCOCO HOUSE 

— And Smorgasbord 

True to her philosophy of "believing in cooking as a cul- 
tural enterprise," Mrs. Rose Palm has made of the Rococo 
House an outstanding restaurant of the city. For Mrs. 

99 



Palm is a culinary artist and a superb hostess, years ago she 
studied the art of cooking in the famous Prunier's of 
Paris. Many of the recipes of that restaurant are used by 
her in preparing fish and game. Her deHghtful Swedish 
smogasbord — that "board" in the center of the dining 
room laden with Swedish hors d'ceuvres and from which 
you may help yourself to your heart's content — daily 
attracts scores of people from the near north side and the 
Upper Michigan Boulevard area — stenographers, artists, 
advertising men, debutantes, ladies with lorgnettes and 
the foreign consuls of the neighborhood. 

There is nothing strange or foreign about Swedish hors 
d'ceuvres; the table contains all the familiar appetizers on 
big pewter plates — sausages, olives, celery, cheeses, sar- 
dines, salads, herring, beets and lots of other items. You 
may make up a complete meal from the smorgasbord, or 
you may have a waitress serve you at one of the tables. It 
is not the uniqueness of the smorgasbord, however, that 
attracts the patrons, but rather the savoriness of the 
foods obtainable from it. 

A contributing factor to the popularity of the Rococo 
House is its charming decor, done as it is in the "peasant 
rococo" style. The Swedish waitresses are in appropriate 
costume; articles of Swedish arts and crafts are displayed 
on shelves; the hand- woven curtains and table linens are 
from Stockholm; the candlesticks (holding real lighted 
candles) are the work of Scandinavian potters, and the 
ship's model, suspended from the ceiling, is typical and 
authentic, being a "good luck" gift to Mr. and Mrs. Palm 
from their friend, Carl Milles, the noted Swedish sculptor. 

Male patrons prefer the new Men's Grill, while women 
foregather in the upstairs dining room. The latter room, 

100 



in addition to having rococo style chairs and tables, is 
also notable for the numerous original oil paintings by 
the Swedish painter, Malmstrom. Afternoon tea with 
French pastry has become popular with the ladies here — 
and a better room could not be found for such purpose. 

Dining at Rococo House is a real esthetic adventure and 
you would be missing something if you failed to have a 
meal here. And don't forget to look over Mr. Palm*s mar- 
velous collection of modern Swedish furniture and objets 
d'art, which are on sale in an adjoining room. 

Rococo House Swedish-American 

161 East Ohio Street 

Open for luncheon and dinner until 9 V.M. 

Luncheon, 50 and 75 cents. Dinner, $1.50 and $1.75 

Maitresse d'hotel: Mrs. Rose Palm 



CHEZ LOUIS 

Cuisine for the Epicure 

No other restaurateur in town has been able to build up 
a more fashionable following than has M. Louis StefiFen, 
the debonair Franco-Swiss proprietor of Chez Louis. 
Since opening this elaborate dining place, a short while ago, 
in an old town house, just off the boulevard, Louis has 
had no difficulty in retaining the exclusive clientele who 
came to his board when he was proprietor of Ciro's Grill. 

101 



Ermine wraps, silk toppers, diamonds and town cars are 
as much in evidence here as they are at Giro's. 

There are two reasons why the dowagers and milHon- 
aires and debutantes of the Gold Goast come to this new- 
est of Ghicago's public dining salons — Louis himself, and 
his chef, Rene Seurin. A combination like this cannot be 
excelled for attracting knowing epicures and the town- 
wise — Louis, with his suave Gontinental manner, his 
youthful dash, his rare good taste in providing the un- 
usual in decor y and M. Rene Seurin, of Bordeaux, trained 
in the kitchens of Paris and as skillful in the culinary art 
as Bach was in the art of music. 

Naturally, with two such men as these in charge, 
French dishes would be featured at Ghez Louis — and so 
they are. Many of the popular delicacies of Parisian tables, 
together with certain specialites de la maison from the 
hands of Ghef Rene, make your evening at Ghez Louis 
memorable. The foods, in point of quality and prepara- 
tion, would pass the severest test. The Ghez Louis is a 
charming place to visit for dinner; the prices are not so 
high as you might think; the service is genuinely Gon- 
tinental and completely satisfying, and the Ghicken Salad 
a la Louis — well, try it yourself. 

Chez Louis Franco- American 

120 East Pearson Street 

Table d'hote luncheon, $ LOO. Table d'hote dinner, $2.50 
Also a la carte 

Open for luncheon, dinner and after-theatre supper 

Mattre d' hotel: Louis Steffen 

102 



MORE GASTRONOMICAL 
LOCATIONS 

BERGHOFF'S, 17 West Adams Street. Pig's knuckles 
and sauerkraut, Thueringer sausage and red cabbage and 
other such heavy Teutonic dishes served appetizingly in 
this old landmark of the Loop . . . EAT SHOP CAFE- 
TERIA, 6 East Lake Street. First-rate vegetables, a small 
orchestra at dinner hour, and once a hang-out of Carl 
Sandburg, the poet and his pal, Lloyd Lewis, the drama 
critic . . . NEGRI ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 123 
West Madison Street. One flight down, good spaghetti, 
and tables filled with stenographers and office help . . . 
POTTHAST'S, 4 West Van Buren Street. Another one- 
flight-downer, featuring solid German dishes for years 
and known to almost everybody at the! south end of the 
Loop . . . SAUERMAN'S, 545 North Clark Street. Old- 
time atmosphere and substantial old-fashioned Germanic 
victuals. A landmark on North Clark Street, formerly 
John Fein*s place. Executives and business men of the 
neighborhood are patrons . . . FOO CHOW CHINESE 
RESTAURANT, 411 South Clark Street. Sole survivor 
of Chicago's old "Chinatown" in South Clark Street. 
Chop suey and chow mein, those popular American 
dishes, served here on teakwood tables inlaid with mother- 
of-pearl. Still popular for after the theatre, because it is 
not as far from the Loop as restaurants in the new "China- 
town" on 22nd Street . . . RIVIERA ITALIAN RES- 
TAURANT, 540 South Wabash Avenue. Although the 

103 



opera has deserted the old Auditorium Theatre, around 
the corner, the Riviera still remains an after-opera rendez- 
vous. The Italian food is eloquent testimony that the 
chef knows his business, and Milton Fairman, of the 
Herald and Examiner and an expert on Italian a la cartes, 
swears that it is one of the best in town . . . THE ALPS, 
across the street from the Riviera. More Italian food, and 
having its own clientele from some of the South Michigan 
Boulevard hotels . . . GERMAN RESTAURANT, 327 
Plymouth Court. The name explains everything. A small, 
high-class eating parlor in quiet surroundings . . . CAFE 
FRANCAISE, 1922 Calumet Avenue. Excellent French 
cuisine; best filet mignon in town; occupies one of the 
stately old mansions in this deserted "Gold Coast" area; 
and caters to executives from some of the publishing 
houses nearby. . . VILLA SPIRO, 4646 Drexel Boule- 
vard. A little old cottage among tall apartment houses. 
A rendezvous for south side connoisseurs of table delica- 
cies. . . GENOA INN, 503 5 Lake Park Avenue. A good 
French-Italian cuisine for south siders. . . BOVERI ITA- 
LIAN RESTAURANT, 1645 East 53 rd Street. Another 
south side dining place, featuring the viands of Naples 
and Rome. . . LOBSTER ISLAND CAFE, 63 54 Cottage 
Grove Avenue. Sea food that is really sea food. . . HYDE 
PARK HOTEL, Lake Park Avenue and Hyde Park 
Boulevard. Wonderful victuals, courteous colored wait- 
ers and an old-fashioned Victorian atmosphere redolent 
of World's Fair days in '93. . . LINCOLN GARDENS 
ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 1524 North Clark Street. 
Spaghetti and veal scallopine are noteworthy, and Joe 
Blatk, proprietor, has cleverly fixed the place up to look 
like a Venetian garden or something. . . AQUARIUM 

104 



RESTAURANT, 316 South Wells Street. Specializing 
in sea foods that are skillfully prepared. Atmosphere is 
quiet, and surroundings are decorative and tasteful. . . 
LEIGHTON'S RESTAURANT, 73 East Lake Street. 
Good food, quiet atmosphere, agreeable service. Con- 
venient to Michigan Boulevard. Turkey and chicken and 
pastries are specialties. Excellent hot and cold delicacies 
"after the show." . . . DORIE'S, 65 East South Water 
Street. Another first-class dining room, just around the 
corner from the boulevard. Hungarian, Jewish, German, 
English, and American cooking. Decorated in the Rus- 
sian style. . . E AND M RESTAURANT, 3216 West 
Roosevelt Road. Popular eating place of the west side, 
conducted by Davey Miller, the sportsman and fight ref- 
eree. Twenty-four hour service and as many varieties of 
victuals. And don't forget to dine in the "Log Cabin" 
room. . . DINING ROOMS OF THREE LOTT HO- 
TELS: THE PARKWAY, 2100 Lincoln Park West; 
THE WEBSTER, 2150 Lincoln Park West; THE BEL- 
DEN-STRATFORD, 2300 Lincoln Park West. Three 
fashionable dining rooms, serving foods fit for a king and 
all under the expert eye of Arnold Shircliffe, catering 
manager and author of "The Edgewater Beach Hotel 
Salad Book," an outstanding treatise on salads. . . HOME- 
WOOD RESTAURANT, 605 Diversey Parkway. 
Wholesome dishes. Renaissance interior; patronized by 
residents of apartment hotels in vicinity and mentioned 
in "Diversey," McKinley Kantor's novel of Chicago 
life. . . MILANO ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 2723 
North Clark Street. Plenty of spaghetti and popular 
among gay set of Diversey Parkway neighborhood. . . 
RICKETT'S, 2727 North Clark Street. They come here 

105 



for steaks, which are admirable, and for a snack after the 
theatre. . . GOLD'S, on Broadway, near Diversey. Where 
Jewish people eat you will always find good food, and 
this applies to Gold's. . .AQUARIUM CAFE, 514 Diver- 
sey Parkway. Excellent sea foods for the mid-north 
side. . . BELMONT HOTEL, 3156 Sheridan Road. A 
grand cuisine in the main dining room, very fashionable, 
and you'd feel more at home in formal dress. 



106 



RIALTO TABLES 

When the tungstens and the neons at dusk change 
Randolph Street into a world of gaudy incandescence; 
when you have arrived in this Great White Way with 
your companion for an evening at the theatre; when you 
have finally found a place to park your car and once 
more reassured yourself that the theatre tickets are still 
in your coat pocket; and, lastly, when you and the fair 
lady with you begin to feel that familiar inner void at 
this time of day, then the restaurants of the Rialto 
beckon most invitingly. It is the hour before curtain 
time. You are bent on making the most of it. Therefore, 
your thoughts turn to that most delightful of all cur- 
tain-raisers for an evening out — a good dinner. 

But where to go? And what to eat? These are ques- 
tions that demand answers quickly, for your time is 
limited. You look about. On every hand are orange huts, 
oyster bars, candy shops, red-hot stands, one-arm joints, 
barbecue eateries and other similar fly-by-night filling 
stations. True, you note a formal restaurant here and 
there — but what does it serve? What are the specialties 
on its menu? And how about the dining rooms of the 

107 



theatre district hotels? Also, where may one dine and 
dance at the same time? 

These are questions that we have tried to answer in 
the following selection of Rialto restaurants. They are 
of all types and varieties — some old, some new; a few 
foreign but most of them domestic; in hotels and along 
the side streets — but all of them serve foods of the best 
quality and you are sure of receiving the utmost in cour- 
teous treatment. 

BISMARCK DINING ROOM 

171 West Randolph Street 
A bulwark of German culinary art in the theatrical 
district. Koenigsberger klops, Wiener schnitzel, German 
potato pancakes, Hamburger steak, pork shanks and 
sauerkraut, sauerbraten and kartoff el kloesse — all the ap- 
petizing and substantial dishes of the hardy Teuton await 
you in the dining room of this historic Randolph Street 
hotel. And every one of the items on the comprehensive 
menu bears the stamp of that incomparable German 
chef, Fritz Mattmueller, who has been with this establish- 
ment for over thirty-three years and who has maintained 
the same high standard of cooking during all this time. 

For this reason, and several others, the Bismarck din- 
ing room has been the favorite rendezvous of German- 
Americans of all classes ever since the World's Fair in 
1893. Here, also, all visiting German celebrities are en- 
tertained and banqueted — Dr. Hugo Eckener, the air 
pilot; Julius Meier Graefe, the art critic; Count Von 
Luckner, the sea devil; the German transatlantic flyers; 
German opera singers and stage stars; and visiting mem- 

108 



bers of the German diplomatic corps, from the am- 
bassador down. 

The Bismarck dominates "German Square," as the 
intersection of La Salle and Randolph Streets, at the west 
end of the Rialto, has been nicknamed. German shops, 
steamship offices, and clubs are on every hand and every- 
body connected with them dines at the Bismarck. So do 
many of the officials from the City Hall nearby, as well 
as the theatrical stars. 

Nowhere this side of Berlin can you find more charm- 
ing examples of German modernist art, as applied to in- 
terior decoration, than in the main dining room of the 
Bismarck. Karl and Emil Eitel, who built the present 
hotel in 1927 on the site of the old Bismarck, imported 
from Germany many of the latest ideas and effects in 
restaurant ornamentation, with the result that all is rest- 
ful, artistic, and novel in the main dining room. Its 
modernist decoration has plenty of curves to beguile the 
eye of the most hardened conservative, grown weary of 
squares and angles. Brass chandeliers made in Berlin de- 
pend from the ceiling; the walls are of hand-carved 
walnut; and Gobelin tapestries hang at each side of the 
mantel in the south wall. And at dinner you may dance 
to the music of Art Kassel's orchestra. 

For real old-style peasant atmosphere, however, dine 
in the picturesque Dutch Room on the third floor. The 
same menu, with the same prices, is used in this room as 
in the dining room. Another interesting dinner place 
here is the Flamingo Room, done in vivid red and deco- 
rated with highly-polished brass work. 
Mattre d'botel: Otto Hurting 

109 



BOLLARD & FRAZIER'S CHOP HOUSE 

20 West Lake Street 
In this age of the equaUty of sexes, Bollard & Frazier's 
historic chop house and sea food restaurant stands out 
like a Gibraltar of masculinity. Stubbornly and con- 
sistently, down the years, it has refused its fine cuisine to 
Milady, remaining one of the last of the stag restaurants 
in Chicago. Therefore, it has become the sportsmen's 
headquarters of the Loop. Contiguous to the Randolph 
Street theatrical district, it is also a popular gathering 
place for actors, race horse fans, newspapermen and poli- 
ticians. 

Here, you may dine on the same bar (as well as at 
tables) which did service over a generation ago in George 
Bollard's famous old Edelweiss Buffet in South Wabash 
Avenue. Located next door to Von Lengerke & 
Antoine's, the pioneer sporting goods house, the Edel- 
weiss attracted huntsmen, fishermen and trap-shooters. 
Nowadays, they come to George Bollard's place on Lake 
Street. Jess Frazier, the other member of the firm, is 
himself a hunter of no small ability. Photographs of 
famed trap-shooters line the walls; stuffed samples of 
tarpon, brook trout and "muskies" are also displayed; 
and the atmosphere is thick with cigar smoke. 

This is a favorite dining place for Sidney Smith, Sol 
Hess, and S. L. (**Mescal Ike") Huntley, the newspaper 
comic strip artist; Clark Rodenbach, the movie critic; 
Bob Becker, editor of "Field and Stream" in the Chicago 
Tribune; Lloyd Lewis, the drama critic and writer; 
Jimmy Murphy, dean of police reporters; William Hale 
Thompson, former mayor and yachtsman; Con Rourke, 

110 



the political writer; Charley Ellison, the race horse owner; 
and Sam Lederer, the noted press agent. 

For the names of any other celebrities who dine here 
you will have to see Jimmy Morris, who has been with 
Mr. Bollard for fourteen years and who knows everybody 
in the Loop worth knowing. Jimmy will also help you 
in making selections from the Bollard & Frazier menu. 
The steaks, chops, and sea foods, prepared under the ex- 
pert eye of Chef Carrodi Arrigoni, are incomparable for 
their savoriness. Meals are a la carte and prices within 
reason. 

MaUre d^ hotel: Jimmy Morris 

LINDY'S 75 West Randolph Street 

Situated in the heart of showland, Lindy's is one of 
the most popular theatrical restaurants in town. Go 
there any hour of the day or night (it never closes) and 
you will be certain to find some star from a current show, 
or a host of near-stars and satellites. Sam Horwitz, the 
entertaining proprietor, is well known to them all. Mostly 
you will find them here after the show, from midnight 
on — dining, laughing, telling stories, greeting each other 
or partaking of Sam's toothsome after-theatre specialties. 
That group over there in one of the booths under the 
mezzanine, exploding in laughter at frequent intervals, 
might be listening to stories from the lips of Julius 
Tannen, the comedian. Or those two jovial fellows in 
the corner might be that incomparable team of fun- 
makers — Clark and McCullough. Others come here when 
they are playing in Chicago — Eddie Cantor, Al Jolson, 
Sophie Tucker, Fanny Brice, Herbert Rawlinson, Texas 

111 



Guinan, Rudy Vallee, Phil Baker, George White, Georgie 
Jessel. 

Many local newspapermen eat here; also such noted 
Randolph Streeters as Milton Weil, the music publisher; 
Phil R. Davis, the poet and divorce lawyer for theatrical 
people; Gail Borden, the columnist; and Sam Gershwin, 
the theatrical advertising man. They all come because 
they like Sam Horwitz and his foods. Sam, by the way, 
was the founder of the original Lindy's in New York 
City. 

Emil, who made a name for himself as chef in De 
Jonghe's famous old Chicago restaurant, presides over 
Sam's kitchen and is responsible for the popularity of 
those after-theatre specialties — Italian spaghetti with 
mushrooms, Chinese chop suey, French pancakes, Emil's 
special chicken a la king, German potato pancakes, 
fried New York counts, kosher frankfurter sausages, 
American ham and eggs, shrimp salad a la Russe, and 
Mexican chicken chili con carne. The service in Lindy's 
is quiet and quick and the waitresses are always helpful. 
There is a $1.75 table d'hote dinner that is commendable. 
The a la carte is less expensive. 
Mattre d'botel: Sam Horwitz 

PETE'S STEAKS 161 North Dearborn Street 

There is nothing inviting about the exterior of this 
place. A blunt ordinary sign out front merely announces 
"Pete's Steaks." Glancing through the window, you see 
only an ordinary white-tiled counter lunch room. No- 
where is there any outward hint of the inward culinary 
delights of this small, unpretentious Dearborn Street 
restaurant, a few feet north of Randolph. 

112 



. But go inside, mount the steps at the rear to the gallery, 
and you will find yourself in a unique^ dining room — long, 
narrow, and looking much like a dining car. Dozens of 
framed photographs of noted actors and actresses, per- 
sonally autographed to the proprietor and his wife, deco- 
rate the walls. And the tables are crowded with gay 
laughing theatrical people — vaudeville artists, chorus 
girls, song boosters, press agents, box office men and, al- 
most nightly, a **big time" star or two. 

What brings these show people and celebrities — as well 
as many other people — to this place are the steaks. And 
what steaks! Thick, juicy, tender, dripping with real 
butter, and smothered in a heaping mound of cottage 
fried potatoes, radishes, green onions, peas and sliced 
Bermuda onions, these steaks have made the proprietor, 
Bill Botham, known from Broadway to Hollywood. His 
place is to Chicago what Beefsteak Charlie's is to New 
York. And we feel that Bill is deserving of his fame, 
for to eat a Pete's Special here is to indulge in a gustatory 
adventure that is rare indeed. No truer catch phrase was 
ever adopted than the one Bill uses for his restaurant: 
"Where Steel Knives Are Unknown." 

Whenever Paul Whiteman, Al Jolson, Rudy Vallee, the 
Great Nicola, Eddie Cantor, or the popular Chicago Jazz 
Idol, Paul Ash, become "steak conscious" while in town, 
they go to Pete's Steaks. So do many local celebrities 
outside the theatrical field, notably Dr. Herman N. 
Bundesen, city health commissioner and one-time mayor- 
alty contender. And you may also see well-known local 
newspapermen here any evening — Jim Doherty, of the 
Tribune; Nate Gross, of the Times; Eddie Doherty, of 
Liberty magazine; and Orville ("Doc") Dwyer, Ted 

113 



Tod, and Maurice Roddy, all of the Examiner. Pete's 
Steaks is also the hangout of that picturesque Rialto 
character, Grover (**Red") Gallagher, stage manager of 
the Harris Theatre. 

We know of no other restaurant in the theatre sector 
where the "personal touch" is so much in evidence as in 
this place. Bill has even gone further and made it a sort 
of family restaurant, for his wife, Marie, assists him as 
does his brother, Eddie, and his sister, Ethel. They are 
all gracious hosts and hostesses and always solicitous of 
the welfare of their guests. Two can dine here easily 
for $4.00. Don't miss Pete's Steaks — which, by the by, 
derives its name from Pete Soteros, who formerly con- 
ducted a restaurant around the corner in Randolph Street 
and which Bill bought out many years ago. 
Mattre d^ hotel: Bill Botham 

DEUTSCH'S 28 North Dearborn Street 

And now we come to Louie Deutsch, caterer of Jewish 
edibles to the Rialto. For over sixteen years, in his 
Dearborn Street restaurant and delicatessen store, Louie 
has been purveying most delectable dishes — chopped liver 
with schmaltz, spitz brust and sauerkraut, gefulte fish, 
schnitzel a la Holstein, steaks and chops, and tooth- 
some pastries — to many an actor, actress, lawyer, judge, 
financier, clerk, and stenographer. And not only do 
Jewish people eat here, but gentiles from all parts of the 
Loop come to enjoy Louie's excellent cuisine. 

Louie is our idea of the perfect restaurateur. 
He takes a personal interest in the whole establishment — 
counters, tables, kitchens, selection of foodstuffs, and 
upstairs dining room — and is always on hand to welcome 

114 



a new customer or shake hands with an old one. You 
will like Louie if you should be fortunate enough to meet 
him — and it ought not to be hard. 

Louie has lots and lots of old friends, both of high and 
low degree. Adolph Zukor, the movie magnate, always 
dines here when he is in town — and why shouldn't he, 
Louie being his brother-in-law. Another movie magnate, 
Jesse L. Lasky, partakes of Louie's board whenever he, 
too, passes through Chicago. And such well-known local 
movie theatre owners as Aaron Jones, Barney and Max 
Balaban, and Sam Lubliner, are frequent patrons. So 
also are General Milton J. Foreman, General Abel Davis, 
Paul Ash, Superior Court Judge Harry B. Miller, Attor- 
ney Sam Bachrach, and the great, baggy-trousered, 
Clarence D arrow. For good Jewish- American cooking 
try Deutsch's — and don't forget the pastries. 
Maitre d* hotel: Louis Deutscb 

MAULELLA RESTAURANT 

786 West Taylor Street 
Although a mile or two away from the Randolph 
Street bright light area, being located across the river 
among the tenements of "Little Italy," the Maulella 
Restaurant gets into this chapter because it is a favorite 
spaghetti restaurant of many persons whose names loom 
large in the radio and amusement world — musicians, 
radio announcers and stars, continuity writers, and 
orchestra leaders. 

Mike Maulella, the proprietor, who is himself one of 
the leading violinists of the town, and Mrs. Teresa 
Maulella, his sister-in-law, who can cook spaghetti, 
chicken dishes, and ravioli with as much skill as her rela- 

115 



tive can handle the bow, are the ones responsible for the 
name and fame of this little **one flight up" eating parlor 
in the crowded Italian quarter. Everything is clean and 
orderly here, the food is of good quality and cooked under 
sanitary conditions, everybody knows everybody else, and 
the establishment is open all night. 

For these reasons, the musical and radio people come 
here — Quin A. Ryan, director of Station WGN, and his 
wife, Roberta Nangle of the Chicago Tribune staff; Joe 
Gallicchio, conductor of the Chicago Daily News Con- 
cert Orchestra; Husk O'Hare, the popular orchestra 
leader; Mary Hunter, announcer over Station WGN; 
Pat Gallicchio, announcer over Station WMAQ; Art 
Benson, another well-known orchestra leader; Franz 
Pfau, the pianist; Ennio Bolognini, the cellist, and lots 
of others. You will find the Maulella Restaurant a de- 
lightful and informal place, particularly at midnight. A 
taxicab will bring you there in a jiffy. 
Mai ire d' hotel: Mike Maulella 

SCHULDER'S SEA FOOD INN 

172 North Clark Street 
Schulder's is the best known and most popular sea food 
restaurant on the Rialto. But it has us puzzled. We 
can't make up our mind as to which serves the best planked 
Lake Superior whitefish in the Loop — the Rainbo Sea 
Food Grotto, in South Dearborn Street, or Schulder's. 
We've tried both, and the question still remains in our 
mind. With your kind permission, we shift this weighty 
gastronomical question to your shoulders and bid you 
try to find the answer yourself. 

In any case, the Lake Superior whitefish served here 

116 



is a milestone in your gustatory career. Such tender and 
sweet-tasting food, done to just the right turn by a chef 
who is nothing if not skillful. You have not tasted the 
best in sea food until you have made short work of a 
Lake Superior whitefish as prepared at Schulder's. 

But they have other sea foods here just as thrilling. To 
attempt a description of the a la carte menu — and it is 
large and varied — would be like trying to name all the 
fishes in Shedd Aquarium. We could devote no end of 
space to eulogies over their fried Lake Michigan perch; 
their Florida pompano is also excellent; and the fresh 
shrimps a la De Jonghe are admirable and completely 
satisfying. All forms of oysters, clams, shrimps, scallops 
and crabs are here, as well as New England lobsters — from 
lobster cocktail (90 cents) to lobster Bordelaise ($2.25). 

Go into Schulder's any evening for dinner and you are 
sure to find some luminary of the stage, or of the political 
world, at one of the tables. Mike Schulder — fat and 
amiable — has many friends among both classes and is 
well-liked by all. There is another Schulder's establish- 
ment at 17 South Dearborn Street. 
Mattre d^ hotel: Mike Schulder 

THE ROMA 117 North Clark Street 

The Roma was not built in a day. It is, on the contrary, 
the oldest Italian restaurant in Chicago's theatrical dis- 
trict. Signor Virgil Nottoli, the proprietor, even goes 
further and affirms that it is the oldest Italian restaurant 
in the downtown district. Picking up a pencil, he will 
write: five years at State and Monroe Streets, two years 
at State and Congress Streets, four years at Wabash and 
Congress Streets, and eighteen years at its present location, 

117 



117 North Clark Street. That makes a total of twenty- 
nine years — more than a generation. 

The reason it has lasted so long may be easily discovered 
in its first-rate Italian-American cuisine. Signor Nottoli 
takes a personal pride in his dishes, true restaurateur that 
he is, and is always willing to point out some of the more 
delectable items that his brother, Signor Frank Nottoli, 
who is chef here, prepares in the kitchen. The a la carte 
dinner menu is a veritable happy hunting-ground to 
those fortunate persons who consider eating one of the 
fine arts. 

Here, you may partake of that choice Italian entree, 
veal scallopine al Marsala — tender veal covered with 
mushrooms and an appetizing sauce. But if you want to 
taste the specialite de la tnaison order spaghetti a la Roma. 
Only Signor Frank knows the secret of preparing this 
highly pleasurable viand and the sauces that give it its 
distinctive appeal. Another specialty of Signor Frank's 
is chicken a la Cacciatore, served in hunting style. 

The Roma clientele is interesting and cosmopolitan. 
Among some of the frequenters are Robert Herrick, the 
Chicago novelist; Rosa Raisa, the opera singer; John 
("Bathhouse John") Coughlin, picturesque alderman of 
the First Ward and poet laureate of the city council; and 
Georgio Polacco, the opera conductor. 

The Roma also gets its share of public officials, being 
located across the street from the County Building and 
City Hall. Mostly these are judges, officials, and attorneys 
of the Italian persuasion. Theatrical people come here, 
too. 

Mattre d'hotel: Virgil Nottoli 

118 



HARDING'S GRILL 131 North Clark Street 

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, greatest of gourmets, 
in his classic work on gastronomy, '*The Physiology of 
Taste," says, in eflFect, that history has been made in 
cafes and restaurants. The truth of this observation is 
nowhere more fittingly illustrated in Chicago, we be- 
lieve, than in Harding's Grill, on North Clark Street, 
across from the County Building and City Hall and 
around the corner from Randolph Street. 

For during the days when Al Capone was sucking 
lollypops in a New York tenement doorway, Harding's 
Grill was the famed Righeimer's Bar — where Chicago 
political history has been made. Need we go further 
than to say that Righeimer's was the cradle of *'Big Bill" 
Thompson. 

Today, Righeimer's lives on — the same bar is here, the 
same furnishings, the same "Ship's Cabin" upstairs, and 
it is still a political rendezvous. Only the name is changed 
— and the molecular density of the products offered for 
consumption. For, since John P. Harding, known as 
The Corned Beef King, took over Righeimer's and 
changed it into a sandwich shop and restaurant, it has 
become popular in the town for three things — its corned 
beef and cabbage, its roast beef, and its steaks and chops. 

Harding's Grill is worth visiting, both for the food and 
the old-time atmosphere. They have a fine a la carte 
dinner menu in the "Ship's Cabin," where you may take 
your wife or sweetheart. The service in the cabin dining 
room is from 5 P.M. to 11 P.M. And the waiters are 
civil and alert. The whole establishment is open for 
breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and after the theatre. 

119 



Other Harding Grills in the Loop district are at 68 
West Madison Street and at 4 North Clark Street. 

THE GREEK CAFE 216 North Dearborn Street 

Where Greeks meet Greeks. Although this place, situ- 
ated for over thirty years on North Dearborn Street in 
the immediate vicinity of the night life district, is the 
dining place of wealthy and prominent Greeks of Chicago 
who have offices in the Loop — importers, business men, 
editors, fraternal lodge officials, commission merchants 
and ice cream manufacturers — yet it has always been 
popular among diners-out of other races. They come 
here for the exotic appeal of certain of the items on the 
Greek Cafe menu, such as the distinctive broiled lamb 
chops, baklawa, and Turkish coffee. 

And what lamb chops! If you really want lamb chops 
in their most delicious form, prepared by chefs from the 
Balkans where lamb, by force of necessity, is the prevail- 
ing gustatory weakness, go to the Greek Cafe. But it 
might be well to prepare the way by sipping of that other 
specialty here — Greek chicken soup with vermicelli. 
And for dessert order baklawa, a most toothsome Balkan 
sweetmeat, made of pastry bound together with crushed 
nuts and honey and palatable spices. And then there is 
Turkish coffee — black, thick, and tasting truly coffeeish. 
Also, if you want to be an Athenian all the way, taste 
some of the genuine white Greek cheese served here. A 
landmark of Chicago, retaining the same interior as when 
it first opened at the turn of the century, the Greek Cafe 
has a leisurely and friendly atmosphere. There is a 
$1.00 table d'hote dinner. 
Mattre d'hotel: Peter Anagnost 

120 



OLD TOWN COFFEE ROOM 

Basement, Hotel Sherman 
Here is one of the novelty restaurants of Chicago. But 
the food has in no way been sacrificed to decoration or 
lay-out and you may enjoy the same highly edible dishes 
here as you do in the other restaurants of the Hotel 
Sherman. 

Of main interest in this place, however, is the pano- 
ramic map, occupying the entire ceiling, of Chicago as 
it was in 18 52. It is the work of Tony Sarg, the noted 
artist and puppet-master. Done in the manner of the 
old cartographers, this map shows each house that stood 
in Chicago in that year, as well as boats, railroad trains, 
and wagons. The whole is highly colorful and entertain- 
ing. If you're seated at the counter, you won't have to 
strain your neck looking upward, since you may see the 
whole thing by looking downward into the mirror which 
covers the top of the counter. 

As for other effects, the Old Town Coffee Room is 
decorated in the manner of Colonial America, with old 
maps and sporting prints hung about the walls, which 
are panelled in unfinished American pine. This is a 
delightful place to dine in on a hot summer's evening, 
the room being artificially cooled. Prices are very rea- 
sonable and there is both counter and table service. 

THE GARRICK 68 West Randolph Street 

Ask your father, or even your grandfather, about the 
Garrick, formerly the Union. They'll have many a story 
to tell of this once popular barroom of the old Union 
Hotel, famed no less for its luxurious appointments than 
for its wet goods, and, particularly, for its beer. The 

121 



ornate mahogany "arch" of the barroom, located in a 
corner of the present restaurant, is not the only part of 
it to survive, for the original ceiling also remains — highly 
decorative, criss-crossed with intricately-carved oak 
beams, and painted in between with gay and colorful 
pictures of horns of plenty, cherubs holding bunches of 
grapes, and all the other motifs that decorators used in 
the Mauve Decade. The Garrick now is a restaurant, 
maintaining an open-all-night policy, and having its own 
share of the Randolph Street crowds before and after the 
theatre. 

The Garrick recently took on more grandeur, opening 
up an elaborate French Room on the second floor. This 
room not so many years ago was the Deauville Cafe, 
operated by the late Ike Bloom, once a power in the old 
22nd Street night life district. Recently, Mr. Roeder, 
proprietor of the Garrick, took it over and redecorated it 
in the French style. It is now a pleasant, intimate room, 
done in soft rose colors, where you may dance to the 
music of a small orchestra. The Garrick provides good 
table d'hote dinners for $1.25 and $1.50. Live baby 
lobsters are a specialty here. 
Mattre d'hotel: Mr. Roeder 

NELLO'S 2423 South Oakley Avenm 

Like the Maulella Restaurant, Nello's is another Italian 
eating parlor, far from the downtown Rialto, but patron- 
ized by not a few of those whose names are printed large 
before theatre doors. 

It was Grover ('*Red") Gallagher, that jovial Irish 
stage manager of the Harris Theatre, who first brought 
the green room folks to Nello Giovannini's board. Nello's 

122 



hearty Neapolitan personality and his musical renditions 
on the mandolin, together with Mama Giovannini's skill 
in the cooking of Italian fried chicken, made an instant 
hit with the f ootlight people and they have been patroniz- 
ing the place ever since. Lately, the newspaper boys have 
followed suit, led by Maurice Roddy, the police reporter 
and cartoonist. 

Nello's is open as long as there are guests at the tables, 
the food is of the finest quality, the telephone number is 
Roosevelt 4587, and you reach the place best by taxicab. 
Maitre d^ hotel: Nello Giovannini 

COFFEE DAN'S 114 North Dearborn Street 

Here is your opportunity of finding out, however vi- 
cariously, all about this Coflfee Dan business. That name 
is perhaps as familiar to you as Heinz's Fifty-seven Vari- 
eties; from time to time you may have seen some reference 
in the newspapers to the famed Coffee Dan's of San Fran- 
cisco; or perhaps some friend has dined in the original 
and told you all about it. In any case, you know that 
Coffee Dan's originated in San Francisco's theatrical dis- 
trict, that they served such ham and eggs and coflFee there 
as was never found anywhere else in the country, that 
they gave you little wooden hammers to pound on the 
table in time to the music, and that it was popular with 
those who gained their livelihood behind the footlights. 

Well, Chicago's replica of this unique establishment 
may not have the same atmosphere of spontaneity and 
gay companionship, nor the clientele of the theatrical 
people who made its fame known abroad in the land, but 
it does provide you with something of the original place — 
namely, the ham and eggs and the wooden hammers. 

123 



Order the Coffee Dan's special ham and eggs and they 
will bring it to your table in the same pan in which it 
was cooked — sizzling in a most appetizing and tempting 
manner. Such was the procedure followed in the original 
establishment. French fried potatoes and a toasted roll 
accompany it, and the whole costs 75 cents. Another 
specialty of the house, as with the original, is Hamburger 
steak a la Coffee Dan. This lightens your purse a little 
more than the "ham and," costing $1.00. 

In all other respects, this basement restaurant is just 
another dine-and-dance place in the theatre district. It 
does not open until 5 P.M. 
Maitre d'hotel: Bob Sorenson 

HUTCHESON'S CHILI PARLOR 

83 West Lake Street 
Although a plain ordinary American lunch room — 
white-tiled, sanitary, with a counter and marble-topped 
tables, and loud with the clatter of dishes and the con- 
versation of taxi drivers and such — Hutcheson's Chili 
Parlor is convenient to the theatre sector, the Mexican 
dishes are appetizing, and in recent months it has been 
receiving a '*play" from the boys and girls of the theatre. 
Almost any time after midnight you will find a gay group 
of chorines and their boy friends at one of the tables, par- 
taking of that popular Hutcheson specialty, Chili Mac, 
which is chili and spaghetti, covered with powdered 
cheese. Or you might find some of them deep in bowls 
of fiery chili con carne, and others indulging in hot ta- 
males with chili sauce. Of course, these dishes are not 
gotten up with the perfection and skill of those prepared 

124 



in the cafes of the Mexican quarter, but they are first-rate 
substitutes. 

CELTIC GRILL Lobby Floor, Hotel Sherman 

As well known and historic as the Hotel Sherman's 
College Inn, the Celtic Grill today is the noontime lounge 
of His Honor, Mayor Anton Cermak. Almost every day 
he comes to his favorite table in the southeast corner of 
the room and there lunches with many of his cabinet offi- 
cials and others. Its easy accessibility (it is located directly 
across the street from the City Hall), and the excellence 
of its cuisine, have been the factors responsible for bring- 
ing the city's chief executive and his aids here. 

Celebrities from other fields come here too. Thornton 
Wilder, the novelist and now a member of the faculty of 
the University of Chicago, is seen here often; it is a fa- 
vorite dining place for Will Rogers when he is in town; 
and Rod La Rocque and his wife, Vilma Banky, the popu- 
lar stage team, ate here almost every day when they were 
playing in Chicago. 

Large, elegant, quiet, with walls of unfinished oak 
panelling, quaint and comfortable chairs, leather-covered 
wall-seats, convenient electric lamps for newspaper read- 
ing, and no music, the Celtic Grill is an ideal place in 
which to lunch or dine and talk over a business deal or the 
day's events. 

The Celtic Grill contains that famous Maxfield Parrish 
mural, **Sing a Song of Sixpence," painted on the west 
wall. As for the food served in the Celtic Grill, it is of 
the first order and a la carte only. In season, there are 
many game dishes to tempt your palate. The room is 

125 



open for breakfast, luncheon and dinner. Prices are not 
exorbitant. 

BRENNAN'S 128 North Wells Street 

Home-made apple pies that give the ones mother used 
to make a close run, and Southern fried chicken as good 
as any served below the Mason-Dixon line, are the out- 
standing specialties of Brennan's located in a Wells Street 
basement at the west end of the theatre district. Mrs. 
Ursula Brennan, who has been conducting this restaurant 
here for a number of years, is rapidly becoming known all 
over town for these specialties, as well as for her luscious 
strawberry shortcake and savory corned beef and cab- 
bage. Lawyers, executives of the Chicago Telephone 
Company nearby, and those fortunate ones among the 
Randolph Streeters who have discovered the place, make 
up the principal part of Mrs. Brennan's clientele. Prices 
reasonable. 
Maitresse d'hotel: Mrs. Ursula Brennan 

BLACKHAWK RESTAURANT 

139 North Wabash Avenue 
If you like to dance between the soup and the entree 
(which epicures claim is bad practice), we recommend 
the Blackhawk, at the east end of the bright light area, 
across the street from Marshall Field's department store. 
Here is a luxurious dining room where the food and the 
music are both of high order, and where you may see 
gay couples and couples not so gay, and have an all- 
around good time. Coon-Sanders orchestra will tickle 
your toes if nothing else will. Dancing is from 6; 30 
P. M. to 1:30 A. M. and there is no cover charge at any 

126 






time. They serve a $1.50 table d'hote dinner that meets 
with the approval of most Blackhawk patrons. 

THE TRIANGLE •)! West Randolph Street 

**Yesterday," reads the Triangle menu, describing its 
oysters, *'as the sun was sinking in the west, these beauti- 
ful creatures were frolicking on the sandy bottom of 
Delaware Bay, unmindful of the danger that lurked 
overhead. Gaiety filled their Httle hearts. But suddenly 
this scene of joy was transformed into one of desolation, 
for astute Man hurriedly plucked them and sent them 
on to us, so that today you may revel in their glorious 
freshness and 'tang' of the sea . . . still scenting of the 
azure blue waters." 

The baked potato is lauded thus: "From Idaho, a Land 
of Treasure. Ages ago great Volcanoes roared and to-day 
among their old lava beds in Idaho they grow these 
Magnificent Gorgeous Beauties. Hot, genuine, mealy, 
Idaho baked potato, with plenty of butter, for only 20 
cents. Here's Health for You." 

You are reading excerpts from a menu of one of the 
most original and typically American restaurants in the 
country. You are in the House that Ham built. You 
are about to taste the most succulent hot roast sugar- 
cured ham you've ever eaten, or the biggest and most 
savory of baked Idaho potatoes, or the finest and largest 
order of good old-fashioned American strawberry short- 
cake in all the length and breadth of the land. In other 
words, you are in the midst of one of the most novel and 
unique epicurean adventures that has ever befallen you. 

If you think we have been carried off our feet by the 
appetite-provoking advertising of this house, and are in- 

127 



dulging in redundant and idle boasts, you are mistaken. 
The Triangle has practically revolutionized restaurant 
management in Chicago by the unique advertising 
methods it employs to attract patrons to its counters 
and tables. Other popular-priced lunch rooms have be- 
gun to copy the Triangle style. The walls of this Ran- 
dolph Street Triangle look like nothing so much as the 
sideshow of a circus — loud with gay and colorful plac- 
ards heralding in the most flowery and poetic of phrases 
the merits of its foods. And the interesting part about 
it all is that these signs tell the truth. Else how could 
D. L. Toflfenetti build a chain of six Triangle restaurants 
in the Loop within the last ten years, with the present 
Randolph Street house as the latest and most-up-to-date 
of the six? 

Standing on the site of the former King Joy Lo chop 
suey restaurant, an old landmark of the Rialto, the 
Triangle is as much a showplace as any of the theatres 
that surround it — and as entertaining and diverting. 
Observe the striking black marble facade, done in mod- 
ernistic style and rising two stories high like an inverted 
U, and the ever-changing play of colored lights across 
its sweep. It is one of the most outstanding buildings 
on Randolph Street. 

But go inside. See the crowded counters and tables; 
observe dignified judges, city officials, and theatrical 
people mingling with stenographers and office boys and 
family groups; see the dashing white-capped carver slic- 
ing a huge appetizing-looking roast beef high up on a 
dais at the front of the restaurant; the big colorful signs, 
dictated by Mr. Toffenetti himself, that make your 
mouth water; the girls making strawberry shortcake 

128 



right before you in the window; the snappy and intel- 
ligent waitresses in their smart white frocks; the cooks 
making salads and dressings before the gaze of all; and 
Mr. Toffenetti himself moving about, picking up a plate 
here, helping a waitress there, and welcoming his many 
friends. All is lively, clean, wholesome, colorful, in-the- 
open, and American — yes, clatter of dishes and all 
— about the Triangle. 

The big day during the Triangle year is the annual 
opening in the spring of the Old-Fashioned Strawberry 
Shortcake Jubilee — an event that has become as im- 
portant in the life of the Loop as the annual Autumn 
Exhibition of Fashion in Marshall Field's windows. 

Indeed, the Triangle, which started as a little restau- 
rant at the triangular corner (this is the origin of its 
name) of Broadway, Sheridan Road, and Montrose 
Avenue, in the uptown district, over fifteen years ago, 
has become as much an institution in Chicago as is 
Marshall Field & Company. Therefore, you should not 
miss it. It is especially interesting to visitors from 
foreign countries. It is open all night and the prices 
are scandalously reasonable. 

Another of the chain of Triangle restaurants is located 
at 6 South Clark Street. 
Maitre d' hotel: Dario L. Toffenetti 

RANDOLPH GERMAN RESTAURANT 

234 West Randolph Street 
Max Koppel, proprietor of this quiet, unobtrusive old 
establishment at the west end of the bright light sector, 
is a restaurateur with an impressive background. His 
first employment in this country was in Delmonico's in 

129 



New York City, one of the greatest restaurants in Amer- 
ica. Then, when Henry M. Kinsley, a noted Chicago 
caterer, and his son-in-law, Gustav Baumann, opened 
the Holland House in Manhattan in 1891, Max Koppel 
went over to that establishment. It was in the Holland 
House, which became almost as famous as Delmonico's, 
that Max learned the art of catering. A few years later, 
Max came to Chicago and joined the Kinsley restaurant 
here. Its five stories all devoted to catering purposes, 
Kinsley's was the greatest of all Chicago restaurants. 
At the time it closed. Max Koppel was manager of its 
dining rooms. 

With a background like this. Max ought to be ex- 
pected to serve good food. He does. His German dishes 
are comparable to those served in any of the other worth- 
while Teutonic eating houses of the town. Especially 
notable, however, is Max's hasenpfeflfer, which, of course, 
can only be served between Thanksgiving and January 
31. His beef a la mode, his smoked ribs of pork, and 
his potato pancakes are also worthy of mention. The 
Randolph is a clean, quiet place and has an atmosphere 
of the old days about it. It is open only for luncheon 
and dinner. 
Maitre d^ hotel: Max Koppel 

BAMBOO INN 78 West Randolph Street 

Chop suey and chicken chow mein have replaced the 
Martini cocktails and champagne that graced the tables 
of this basement dining room when William (*'Smiley") 
Corbett conducted his famous Cabaret here many years 
ago. Today, the Bamboo Inn, located in the hectic 
center of showland, is popular with young girls and 

130 



4 ^-^ 



i 



their boy friends, as well as visiting farmers and others 
from the tank towns of the midland. It is a quiet, in- 
nocent Chinese restaurant where the chop suey is good 
and where you may dance to the strains of Steve Leon- 
ardo's orchestra. No cover charge and open until late. 

CHILDS 55 West Washington Street 

In recent months, this representative of the great chain 
of restaurants has been getting considerable of a *'play" 
from the show people, nighthawks, and bons vivants 
of the downtown district. Tired of the poor quality of 
foods served in the gaudier night clubs, these gay persons 
have been dropping into this open-all-night place to eat 
food that is food before going home. Often you will see 
silk top hats and ermine wraps, or a theatrical star or 
two, among the diners. The food served here, of course, 
is wholesome and skillfully prepared. 

ANNES' RESTAURANT 620 Rush Street 

Another eating parlor distantly removed from Ran- 
dolph Street, but part and parcel of the town's theatrical 
life. Many stage stars who live in the Hotel McCormick 
just over the river, in which this restaurant is located, 
dine here in the wee small hours. During the day and 
early evening, this unit in George J. Annes' Chicago 
chain of lunch rooms is quiet and of no particular im- 
portance. But after two in the morning it takes on life. 
Actors, chorines, vaudevillians, race track men, fisticuff 
artists, and an occasional newspaperman or two, are 
usually present. At one table you might see Tony Can- 
zoneri, the fighter, entertaining a couple of friends; 
eight chorus girls from Earl Carroll's show might be at 

131 



another; Bernardine Hayes, voted **the greatest girl 
radio star," comes in often; Jock Malone, once one of 
the country's foremost fighters, sits in a corner working 
on cross-word puzzles. And they are all served by 
Angelo, probably the most travelled waiter in town, 
who speaks five languages. 

DE LAZON'S 127 North Dearborn Street 

Few of the many Rialtoites who dine in this interesting 
restaurant across the street from the Cort Theatre know 
that it is on the first floor of the only leaning skyscraper 
in the world. Observing it from across the street, the 
American Bond & Mortgage Company building (built 
by the late Governor John P. Altgeld, easily reveals the 
incline in its upward thrust. But don't be alarmed. It 
has been standing this way for over a generation. De 
Lazon's serves good food, the waitresses are bright and 
cheerful, and the cakes, pies, and pastries made in its 
own ovens are highly satisfying. It is open from 7 A. M. 
to 10 P. M. And don't forget to look over the unique 
and clever carvings in wood, the work of Tud Kempf, 
which adorn the walls. Kempf, although known popu- 
larly as "The King of the Whittlers," is a serious artist 
and his creations in wood are highly regarded by the 
local art critics. These samples may help you to digest 
your food. There are also many autographed photo- 
graphs of theatrical stars on the walls. 
Mattre d' hotel: Nick Luzon 

GIMBEL'S 30 West Randolph Street 

This large and popular basement dining room occupies 
an interesting location. Above it rises the Masonic 

132 



Temple building, headquarters of Masonry in Chicago; 
next door is the Oriental Theatre, largest of Chicago's 
cinema palaces; and, lastly, here was the site of the 
Iroquois Theatre fire in 1903. As for the restaurant 
itself, it is new and luxurious, the menu is large and in- 
clines toward German and Jewish cooking, the waitresses 
are lively, the sticks of bread are good, and there are 
four special Gimbel salads that would brighten the eye 
of any epicure. Patrons are invited to observe the 
kitchen, made of Monel metal. The walls of Gimbel's 
are wainscoted with American walnut, ornamental plas- 
ter, and intricately designed gold work. Open from 
7 A. M. to midnight. 
Maitre d'botel: Fred Gimbel i 

THOMPSON'S 27 West Randolph Street 

Here is the surprise of your life. Used to eating your 
ham and eggs (country style) on one-arm chairs and 
amid the clatter of much crockery in any Thompson 
lunch room, you are totally unprepared for the scene of 
splendor and spaciousness and up-to-dateness that con- 
fronts you as you enter, for the first time, this newest 
of the Thompson restaurants. The **one-arm" chairs 
are gone. Considerably lessened, too, is the crazy sym- 
phony of dishes. All is changed. Nothing of the old- 
time Thompson atmosphere is here, with the exception 
of the service counter and the help-yourself system. 

Instead, a unique and artisticaSy designed eating place 
rises before you. The one-arm chairs are replaced by 
highly-carved and polished oak tables and chairs; the 
walls are of panelled oak; large colorful murals, rising 
from floor to ceiling and lit by hidden lights in pros- 

133 



ceniums, depicting scenes in early American history, 
dominate the east wall; snappy girls in white frocks 
have replaced the men at the service counter; and a long 
soda fountain stands at the front. 

The interesting part about it all, however, is that the 
Thompson prices have not changed in order to pay for 
this new elegance. Neither has the fopd deteriorated in 
quality. We know of no better place to eat during 
**lean days'* than this Rialto establishment — and its 
sumptuousness is soothing to your pride. 

TERRACE GARDEN Madison at Clark Street 

Here is one of the best known dine-and-dance restau- 
rants in Chicago. Popular both before and after the 
theatre. Although not on Randolph Street, the Terrace 
Garden is but two blocks southward. It is located in the 
basement of the Morrison Hotel, where the famed old 
Boston Oyster House once had quarters. You eat at 
tables placed on circular terraces and the dance floor, 
orchestra, and floor show are below you. Luncheon, 
dinner, and after-theatre supper are served here and the 
menu is both table d'hote and a la carte. They feature 
daily specials, which are appetizing, such as beef a la 
mode with potato pancackes. New England boiled din- 
ner, fried spring chicken roadhouse style, boiled brisket 
of beef with horse radish sauce, baked finnan haddie a 
la Moir, and individual chicken pot pie. If you like to 
dance between courses, or if you like to be in a gay 
convivial atmosphere, with music, young people, and 
colorful surroundings, the Terrace Garden is the place 
to go. 

134 



i 



ORIENTAL GARDENS 23 West Randolph Street 
Newest of the Loop's chow meineries is the Oriental 
Gardens, located on the second floor over Thompson's 
latest restaurant and across the street from the Oriental 
Theatre. Here, all is Chinese and sufficiently exotic for 
the kind of people who go to the Randolph Street movie 
palaces — and there are plenty in Chicago. Henri Gend- 
ron and his orchestra provide music for dancing and the 
establishment is open until 1 A. M. A few American 
dishes are served here and such popular Chinese dishes 
as chop suey and chow mein. 
Maitre d'botel: Chin Wai ^ 

GARDEN OF ZANZIBAR TEA ROOM 

54 West Randolph Street 
An upstairs tea room where they tell your fortune in 
the tea leaves — typical of the fortune telling tea rooms 
which have sprung up all over the Loop in recent years. 
Lots of fun for stenographers and their boy friends. 

THE GYPSY TEA SHOP 

22 West Monroe Street 
Where real gypsies read your palm or tea leaves. The 
original of these establishments in Chicago. 



135 



ALONG THE AVENUE 

Like proud and gaily-decorated soldiers standing at 
attention, the big skyscraper hotels of Michigan Avenue 
rear their million-windowed facades over Chicago's Lake 
Front. Serving a wealthy and exclusive clientele, these 
hotels, in their dining rooms, oflFer the very best in food- 
stuffs. They obtain the choicest cuts of meats from the 
stockyards; the vegetables served on their tables are fresh 
from the country; and the chefs and pastry cooks work- 
ing in their kitchens are trained in the best traditions 
of Continental cookery. 

Our survey of the Avenue eating halls and parlors 
begins at Michigan Avenue and Lake Shore Drive, the 
near north side crossroads of the Gold Coast. Here, the 
Drake Hotel stands as a citadel of wealth and fashion; a 
few doors east of it rises the exclusive Lake Shore Drive 
Hotel; several blocks northward we find the swanky 
Ambassador East Hotel; just south of it stands the 
Knickerbocker Hotel. In all of these high-toned hostel- 
ries are dining rooms that serve the choicest of dishes 
for a discriminating clientele. 

Among these hotels are the Avenue restaurants and 
tea rooms — the majority of them decorated in the 

137 



modern style. Down the Avenue we follow them, cross- 
ing the Chicago river into the downtown district, until 
we come to the Palmer House, which is just one block 
west of the Avenue but always identified with it. From 
then on, we visit the dining rooms of the ritzy Avenue 
hotels in the downtown district — the Auditorium, the 
Congress, the Blackstone, and the Stevens. Here, also, 
we make note of the more important restaurants and 
tea rooms. In the following pages, then, you will find 
the results of our survey. 

THE DRAKE 

Lake Shore Drive and Michigan Avenue 
First and foremost of the Avenue eating establish- 
ments catering to Chicago's social world is the main 
dining room of the Drake Hotel. The location of the 
hotel, of course, has much to do with the high prestige 
of the dining room, being at the head of Michigan Ave- 
nue and dominating the Lake Shore Drive Gold Coast, 
which sweeps northward in an imposing curve of trees 
and tall apartment hotels along the shore of Lake Michi- 
gan. Incidentally, no other dining room in town offers 
a more beautiful metropolitan view than the one to be 
seen through the spacious windows along the north wall 
of the Drake dining room. 

Huge, impressive, decorated in the Italian Renaissance 
style, with plenty of veined marble columns and gor- 
geous glass chandeliers, and soothed by the dulcet strains 
of the Drake Concert Ensemble, this rendezvous of the 
Four Hundred and such visiting celebrities as happen 
to be stopping at the Drake (and most of them stop 
there) , comes to its most active life at dinner time — and 

138 



mainly during **the season." Then, tuxedos and low- 
necked gowns are in abundance; the atmosphere is gay 
and swanky and cosmopolitan; and the debutantes and 
dandies are having the time of their lives. The cuisine, 
of course, is of the highest quality and the a la carte 
menu is more like a catalogue than a folder. 

Historic banquets have been held in this dining room 
in honor of world-renowned celebrities. Gazing upon 
such a magnificent dining hall, you regret that old John 
B. Drake, founder of the Drake dynasty in Chicago, is 
not alive to stage in this place one of his far-famed an- 
nual game dinners that made his Grand Pacific Hotel 
(now gone) the talk of the country back in the seven- 
ties. 

For luncheon, however, many of the millionaires and 
dowagers and others prefer the smaller Lantern Room, 
which overlooks Michigan Avenue. Here, you may see 
the interesting French wall lanterns which Mrs. John B. 
Drake II installed and which are replicas of ones she had 
seen in an old chateau in France. A striking silvered 
frieze, depicting various medieval sports and games, is 
also of interest, and so are the figurines of gay-colored 
candy which decorate each table and which are the work 
of Jacques Czerwinski, product of Parisian art schools 
and kitchens. 

While an orchestra plays, you may enjoy that delicious 
Drake luncheon specialty, eggs Becker, created by the 
late Chef Becker of the Blackstone Hotel (owned by the 
Drake interests) and consisting of eggs and diced lob- 
ster in Newburg sauce, served on toast. But there is a 
varied selection of other ready dishes and all of them, 
prepared under the skillful eye of Chef Theo Rooms, 

139 



would meet the hearty approval of the most fastidious 
of epicures. The Lantern Room is open for breakfast, 
luncheon, dinner, and supper dances, and the prices are 
not extraordinarily high. And the service is truly a 
tribute to the genius of Chicago's most noted maitre 
d'hotel Eric Dahlberg. 

The Drake Italian restaurant, on the ground floor, 
reminiscent of a low crypt in some old Tuscan villa, 
is the popular-priced eating room of the hotel, table 
d'hote luncheons being served here for 8 5 cents and 
table d'hote dinners for $1.50. The sea food Louisiane 
and lamb rack Parmesan are notable specialties of the 
Italian restaurant. 
Eric Dahlberg 

BRADSHAWS 127 East Oak Street 

Although a small, unassuming place, around the cor- 
ner from Michigan Avenue and having all the appear- 
ance of being just another Gold Coast tea room, Brad- 
shaw's serves some of the best food in the North Central 
district. The establishment is conducted by Mrs. Jene 
Fageros, a capable and conscientious Norwegian cook 
from Minneapolis, and her daughter, Bernyce, who is 
an artist and a graduate of Columbia. Nowhere can 
you find better apple pie — the delicious fresh apple 
slices are exposed and instead of the usual covering of 
crust Mrs. Fageros uses a layer of chopped walnuts. 
Her bran muffins also are incomparable, being made of 
figs, bran, milk, and eggs. Luncheons are 65 and 8 5 
cents and dinners $L00 and $1.50. Mrs. Bernice Chal- 
lenger Bost, editor of Tower Town Topics magazine, 
and many well-known men and women from nearby 

140 



advertising offices come here daily for luncheon, and 
it is one of the favored spots of Lake Shore Drive so- 
ciety. Through the windows you may observe, on the 
other side of the street, the lawns at the rear of Mrs. 
Edith Rockefeller McCormick's palatial residence — if 
that is of any interest to you. 
Maitresse d^hotel: Miss Bernyce Fageros 

KNICKERBOCKER COFFEE SHOP 

1 63 East Walton Place 
Excellent substantial dishes, the kind that business 
men enjoy, are offered in this small eating room just 
off the lobby of the Hotel Knickerbocker. There is 
German apple pancakes with head lettuce, broiled Span- 
ish mackerel and boiled potato, Szedigner beef goulash, 
and any number of other items. This coffee shop, 
decorated with unique pinkish wallpaper, is popular 
among advertising men and executives from the tower- 
ing Palmolive Building next door, as well as among 
society people. Luncheons are 65 cents — and worth it. 

NINE HUNDRED NORTH 

900 North Michigan Avenue 
This place was aptly described recently as "Modern 
— but beautiful!" And so it is. If you are a lover of 
modern art, here is a thrill for you. It was designed by 
Mrs. Howard Linn, the talented Chicago society woman, 
and its first manager was Mrs. William Vaughn Moody, 
widow of the noted poet and foremost of the town's 
hostesses. 

The Crystal Room is where the main thrill lies. Small, 
oval in shape, exquisitely done in black and white and 

141 



with many hexagonal columns of black glass and hidden 
colored lights, the room looks large and intricate by- 
virtue of the clever arrangement of French mirrors. 
Several novel private dining rooms, notably the Straw- 
Room, made of hand-painted straw squares, are also 
features of the place. 

During the sultry evenings of summer, however, most 
patrons dine in the Patio — a large open-air court with 
a fountain in its center. Here, under the July stars and 
to the strains of an orchestra, you may enjoy Chef 
Charles Font's delightful Stuffed Lobster Thermidor, or 
any of his other dishes, in a most gay Monte Carlo-like 
atmosphere. This courtyard, by the way, is part of the 
Nine Hundred North Michigan Avenue Building, de- 
signed by the Jarvis Hunts, Senior and Junior, noted 
architects, and occupied by numerous Chicago million- 
aires and their families on the cooperative plan. 

Here, then, you are likely to see many of these resi- 
dents at dinner — Fames MacVeigh, Edward Swift, Jr., 
W. C. Boyden, Joseph M. Cudahy, Hopwell L. Rogers, 
Thorne Donnelley, Ira Nelson Morris, Cyrus Hall Mc- 
Cormick, D. F. Kelly, and George E. Porter. 

Rudolph, in his polite Continental way, is there to 
welcome you; the cuisine is perfection; you will not feel 
out of place in formal dress; and the prices are within 
reason. 
Maitre d'hotel: Rudolph 

WOMAN'S EXCHANGE 

942 North Michigan Avenue 
For women only — and the only one of its kind in 
Chicago. Very exclusive. About fifteen tables at the 

142 



rear of the Woman's Exchange of Chicago, which is a 
charity shop estabHshed by Mrs. Kellogg Fairbank, Mrs. 
Louis F. Swift, and other wealthy society women. You 
help yourself at the serving counter. Excellent home 
cooking. Salads and pastries best in the city, and ex- 
cellent are the creamed cheese and anchovies served on 
rye bread. Heavily patronized by socially prominent 
women at tea time. When you are through lunching, 
you tell the cashier what you ate and she makes out the 
bill. No so bad! 



180 EAST DELAWARE RESTAURANT 

180 East Delaware Place 
Most charming and interesting of French restaurants 
in Chicago, just off the Avenue. The ceiling is beamed, 
the floor is made of tile, dark brocaded draperies hang 
over doorways and windows, real candles are on the 
tables, a fireplace is at one end and a big table of most 
tempting hors d*oeuvres is at the other, and all is de- 
lightfully atmospheric and redolent of the Old World. 
But most interesting of all is Jacques Fumagally, the 
ma It re d 'hotel, who goes about welcoming guests in true 
Parisian style. Born in Monte Carlo, Jacques was for- 
merly with the Ritz in Paris and the Sevilla Biltmore in 
Havana. With the able assistance of Chef Julliard Me- 
dou, Jacques offers you a few specialties, such as cottage 
cheese a la Jacques and 180 Delaware special salad. The 
menu is large and contains all the popular French dishes. 
Table d'hote luncheon, 75 cents, and table d'hote din- 
ners at $1.00 and $1.50. This French restaurant is 
located in swanky and exclusive Streeterville, once the 

143 



bailiwick of old Cap'n George Wellington Streeter, the 

militant squatter. 

Maitre d^ hotel: Jacques Fumagally 

HUYLER'S 917 North Michigan Avenue 

The modern atmosphere of this important Avenue 
restaurant, with its four dining rooms, is in keeping 
with the building in which it is located — the cloud- 
piercing Palmolive Building, a modernistic skyscraper 
with setbacks, which, with its powerful Lindbergh bea- 
con, dominates the entire near north side both day and 
night. The Pink Room, first of the rooms, is done in 
rose-pink and contains a lunch counter and booths. 
Then comes the Gold Room, a formal dining room 
where prices are higher. The Walton Coffee Room, at 
the rear, done in blue and silver, is a sort of sandwich 
shop. The Fountain Room adjoining is self-explanatory. 
The foods served in all these rooms are of the best quality 
and not only typists but fashionable men and women 
from the Gold Coast patronize the various rooms daily. 

WOOD'S 930 North Michigan Avenue 

Many a Chicago millionaire can remember being taken, 
when a child, to Wood's on Michigan Avenue for ice 
cream soda. This small but exclusive establishment, how- 
ever, is an off-shoot of the parent house, located down- 
town at 108 South Michigan Avenue. Mr. and Mrs. 
Wood serve delicious light luncheons and confections 
and they have a large following among the older first 
families of the town. Their creamed shrimps and 
creamed mushrooms are exquisite creations, nowhere to 
be duplicated. In recent years this Upper Michigan 

144 



Avenue branch has become popular among debs for 
afternoon tea. Not very many men are seen here — but 
there's no reason why they should stay away. 
Mattresse d'hotel: Mrs. Wood 

LAKE SHORE DRIVE 180 Lake Shore Drive 

When Queen Marie of Roumania, and her two children, 
Prince Nicholas and Princess Ileana, visited Chicago 
in 1926, they resided at the Lake Shore Drive Hotel and 
ate in its dining room — which information might give 
you some idea of the position occupied by this establish- 
ment in Chicago's social life. The Lake Shore is also a 
favorite stopping and dining place of many other re- 
nowned bigwigs — Ira Nelson Morris, former ambassador 
to Sweden; Mary Garden, the opera singer; Robert P. 
Lamont, secretary of commerce; Michael Strange, the 
author and ex-wife of John Barrymore; Jascha Heifetz, 
the violinist; Anita Stewart, the movie star; Yehudi 
Menuhin, the boy violinist; Alfred Lunt, the actor, and 
such actresses as Lillian Gish, Katherine Cornell, Lynn 
Fontanne, and Ethel Barrymore. 

People of this sort demand the best in food — and they 
get it in the dining room of the Lake Shore Drive Hotel. 
Not only residents of the hotel, but matrons and mil- 
lionaires from the residences nearby, come to this dining 
room. During **the season," all diners are in formal 
dress. It is a small room, beautifully done in the Adam 
style, and the china and silver cause you to gasp. The 
atmosphere is very ritzy and fashionable and the prices 
are accordingly high. 

The hotel occupies a commanding position, fronting 
on Lake Michigan and the Lake Shore Drive Gold Coast, 

145 



and only a short distance east of the Avenue. The Loop 
is five minutes away by auto. If you want to dine with 
the beau monde of Chicago, or catch a gUmpse of some 
visiting celebrity in an informal moment, then the din- 
ing room of the Lake Shore Drive Hotel is the place to 

go- 

Mattre d'hotel: Langsdorff 

HOTEL AMBASSADOR 

North State Parkway and Goethe Street 
In the heart of the Gold Coast and very very swanky. 
Main dining room, at dinner, alive with the presence of 
Chicago society folk and others well known. Here, any 
evening, you are likely to see Chicago's veteran member 
of the bench. Judge Thomas Taylor, Jr., and Mrs. Tay- 
lor; John Borden, the explorer, and his wife, Courtney 
Borden, the writer; Senator and Mrs. James Hamilton 
Lewis; and James Keeley, the former Chicago Tribune 
executive, and Mrs. Keeley. All is elegant, dignified, and 
expensive in this dining room and the cuisine is care- 
fully prepared to suit the tastes of well-travelled epi- 
cures. No music. The room is not large. It is done in 
the Colonial style and crystal chandeliers of striking 
beauty depend from the ornate ceiling. For less formal 
atmosphere, many of the society people eat in the Italian 
Room of the old Ambassador Hotel, across the street 
from the Ambassador East, and reached through a tun- 
nel under State Street. The Italian Room is reminiscent 
of some old hall in a Neapolitan villa and the cuisine here 
is the same as that of the dining room in the Ambassador 
East. 

Mattre d'hotel: Charles Metcalf 

146 



MISS ELLIS TEA SHOP 

717 North Michigan Avenue 
Most elegant and high-toned of the EUis chain of tea 
rooms in Chicago. The interior is modern and the wall- 
paper is a delight to the esthetically-inclined. Patronized 
by smartly-gowned women and by women who come 
here to look at the gowns. The cuisine is commendable 
and the numerous old family recipes used in this place 
make the menu inviting. The chicken pie is something 
you shouldn't miss. Luncheons are 50 and 65 cents and 
dinners 75 cents and $1.00. Sunday dinners are $1.25 
and $1.50. The waitresses are lively, intelligent, and 
courteous. 

LE PETIT GOURMET 

619 North Michigan Avenue 
Established by Mrs. William Vaughn Moody, Le Petit 
Gourmet has played an important part in the literary 
history of the city since its beginning over nine years 
ago. Here it was that Harriet Monroe, editor of Poetry 
magazine, conducted her popular "Poetry Readings" 
— bringing before the public such well-known poets as 
the late Amy Lowell, Carl Sandburg, Lew Sarett, Edgar 
Lee Masters, Alfred Kreymborg, Witter Bynner, Eunice 
Tietjens, Mrs. Arthur Aldis, Marion Strobel, and Max- 
well Bodenheim. 

Le Petit Gourmet, occupying basement quarters, has 
always been popular among writers, artists, musicians, 
society folk, epicures, and all others who enjoy good 
foods. Many of Mrs. Moody's famed recipes (she is no 
longer connected with the establishment) , contained in 

147 



her recently-published cook book, are still served here, 
and the excellent pastries made by the Home Delicacies 
Association (which Mrs. Moody also founded) are part 
of the menu. People still come here for the East Indian 
chicken curry, served only at the Wednesday luncheon 
during cold weather and always a popular favorite of 
the house. 

The interior is attractive, colorful, and unique, fea- 
turing real burning candles, a wood fire in the fireplace, 
rare and quaint porcelains and colorful designs on the 
walls. During the summer months you may dine in the 
Continental manner at little round tables in the Italian 
Court, an old-world court that has been photographed 
and drawn and painted more than any other spot in 
town. Italian balconies are all about and the summer 
sky is above you. Men mostly frequent the Italian Room 
in the rear of the basement quarters. Le Petit Gourmet 
is now operated by Mrs. Florence Sturgis and Mrs. Ethel 
Williams, two capable women, well known in Chicago 
restaurant and catering circles. 

VASSAR HOUSE 540 North Michigan Avenue 

Starting five years ago as a small tea room operated by 
the Vassar College alumnae of Chicago and vicinity for 
the purpose of raising a scholarship fund, Vassar House 
is now one of the major restaurants of the Avenue, es- 
pecially since it moved into its new and larger quarters 
in the Michigan Square Building. Modern and colorful 
in decor, its interior is featured by Leslie Thome's black 
and white murals representing the various styles of wom- 
en's dresses worn by students since the founding of 

148 



Vassar in 1868, and the old-style cartographer's maps of 
the Vassar campus painted on the table-tops. The Men's 
Grill, a recent addition, serves breakfast in addition to 
luncheon and dinner. Among the specialties of the 
house, prepared by those two able cooks, Antonio Gillio 
and Emile Burckel, is Vassar Devil, a fudge cake known 
to every Vassar graduate. This place is ideal for tea and 
has become popular among visitors who come to view 
Carl Milles' famous statue, ''Fountain of Diana", in Diana 
Court, the beautiful lobby of the Michigan Square 
Building." And, if you are a Vassar graduate, you will 
be interested to know that former Vassarites act as hos- 
tesses, among them Mrs- Arthur D. Welton, Mrs. 
Charles Faben Kelley, Mrs. Eugene S. Talbot, Jr., and 
other members of the board of directors. An interesting 
sidelight on the restaurant is that fully seventy-five per 
cent of its clientele is made up of real honest-to-goodness 
he men. The excellent and substantial foods served 
here is what brings them — as well as women patrons. 
Ma I tr esse d' hotel: Miss Rtitb I sa belle Smith 

TOWER TEA ROOM 820 Tower Court 

Located on the Pearson Street side of the Illinois Wom- 
an's Athletic Club Building, a soaring skyscraper 
which makes the historic old Chicago Avenue water 
tower in front of it look like a midget. Good substantial 
dishes are served here and there are as many men at the 
tables as women. The room is decorated with striking 
wall designs and all is elegant and in keeping with what 
a first-class dining room, just off the Avenue, should be. 

149 



GRAYLING'S 410 North Michigan Avenue 

This large restaurant, on the ground floor of the 
Wrigley Annex Building, is largely patronized by the 
advertising men and executives who have offices in the 
twin Wrigley Buildings and by department heads and 
others of the Chicago Tribune in Tribune Tower, across 
the Avenue. Women mostly dine in the front section 
of the restaurant, which is ornately decorated, while 
men prefer the smaller and more intimate Grill Room at 
the rear. This room is unique, being the only example 
of Holland Renaissance decoration in a Chicago restau- 
rant. The walls are of panelled walnut, and real tapes- 
tries, wrought iron lighting fixtures, and a flagged floor 
form other decorative features. It was designed by 
Leonard De Wit, the noted Dutch artist and designer, 
now resident in Chicago. The food served in Grayling's 
is of the best quality and there is a large and varied 
menu. Open for breakfast, luncheon, and dinner. 
Afternoon tea also is popular here. 
Maitre d'botel: Mr, Grayling 

THE VESUVIO 15 East W acker Drive 

Although not on the Avenue, this Italian restaurant 
is in its immediate vicinity and occupies one of the most 
cosmopolitan sites in town. It lies between the Michigan 
Avenue bridgehead plaza and the grand sweeping plaza 
at Wacker Drive and North Wabash Avenue, with the 
waters and the steamers of Chicago at its feet. The 
decorations by the Italian artist, Gallano, are Pompeiian, 
in black, red, and gold. D. Price, a native of Torino, 
one of the proprietors, numbers among his friends Galli- 
Curci, Rosa Raisa, Tito Schipa, and other operatic no- 

150 



tables. Rossi, the other proprietor, was formerly with 
the Drake and Blackstone Hotels and knows what 
Italian cooking is all about. Hence the reason why- 
many bigwigs dine here frequently — Jack Dempsey and 
his wife, Estelle Taylor; Jackie Coogan, the kid movie 
actor; Edith Rockefeller McCormick, Chicago's social 
queen, and Count Charles de Fontnouvelle, the French 
consul. Business men's luncheons at 65 cents and table 
d'hote dinners at $1.25 and $1.50. There are a lot of 
Italian specialties served here — and appetizingly, too. 
Maitre d'hotel: D. Vrice -^ 

ST. CLAIR 162 East Ohio Street 

The dining room of the St. Clair Hotel, serving food 
on a par with that of many of the Avenue restaurants, 
has become popular as an after-theatre rendezvous. 
Waffles and late supper specials are prepared most en- 
ticingly here, and there is music and a dance floor. Table 
d'hote dinners are $1.00, $1.25 and $1.50. Plate lunch- 
eons for 50 cents and dinners for $1.00 are served in the 
St. Clair Coffee Shop. This hotel, a stone's throw from 
the Avenue on the near north side, is within five minutes 
walk to the Loop. 

EL HAREM 165 North Michigan Avenue 

An Arabian Night on Michigan Avenue. All is dark 
and mysterious and sensuous and Turkish in El Harem 
— including the menu. By a simple twist of the wrist 
and the addition of a few "hubble-bubble" pipes and 
ornate hanging Turkish lamps, Pietro Mosgofian, for- 
merly impresario of the Cafe Old Stamboul in Tower 
Town, was able to transform the heavily ornamented 

151 



Russian interior, recently occupied by the Petrushka 
Club, into a place having all the exotic atmosphere of a 
Sultan's harem. Turkish dishes are served here, includ- 
ing baklawa and Turkish coffee, and, after the meal, 
you may smoke highly-scented Turkish cigarettes or 
struggle with the narghile, (or hooka, or **hubble- 
bubble" pipe, or Oriental water-bottle pipe — which ever 
you want to call it) . In case none of these attract you, 
there is Clarence Jones and his orchestra to provide 
music while you dance. El Harem is open for luncheon, 
tea dance, dinner, after-the-theatre, and late supper. 
The waiters are Turkish, wear fezzes, and are very meek. 
This place is highly interesting if you want to spend the 
evening and your money in an exotic foreign atmos- 
phere. Dinner is $2.00. 
Mattre d' hotel: Pietro Mosgofian 

PALMER HOUSE 

State, Wahash, and Monroe Streets 
This famed Chicago hotel, although not on Michigan 
Avenue, is included in this chapter because it is but a 
block westward on Wabash Avenue and therefore easily 
identified with the gay life of the city's Lake Front bou- 
levard. Founded in 1871 by Potter Palmer (known to 
posterity as **The Father of State Street" and the hus- 
band of the undisputed social queen of Chicago during 
the World's Fair of 1893 ) , the Palmer House has always 
S^een noted throughout the country for its unrivaled 
cuisine. 

It was in the dining room of "the old Palmer House" 
that the most famous banquet ever held in the United 
States was staged — that accorded to General U. S. Grant 

152 



in 1879 and at which Mark Twain and Colonel Robert 
T. Ingersoll, among dozens of other celebrities, were 
speakers. Never before was there such an array of 
game dishes as at this feast — saddles of venison, roast 
prairie chicken, buffalo steaks, breasts of wild duck, 
filets of wild turkey, and innumerable other edibles from 
the woods and prairies of the Middle West. 

The culinary fame of the Palmer House, now in a 
magnificent new skyscraper building on the old site, con- 
tinues to the present day, and has been considerably en- 
hanced since the house acquired Monsieur Ernest E. 
Amiet, noted Swiss cook, as executive chef. Chef Amiet, 
former president of the Chefs de Cuisine Association of 
America, is one of the few chefs in this country to hold 
the diploma of the Societe des Cuisiners de Paris, which 
is the highest honor that can come to a chef. 

With Chef Amiet to supervise their preparation, then, 
the Palmer House "Daily Specials" are epicurean de- 
lights of the highest order. The disjointed fried squab 
chicken Ol' Man River, served with corn fritter, glazed 
brown sugar, pan gravy with pimiento, and crisp salt 
pork, is a dish you'll never forget. Neither will your 
memory of the mutton chop Smithfield, with ham and 
mushrooms, grow dim. And you'll cherish your recol- 
lections of the potted brisket of beef Palmer Square, and 
that delicious dessert, Creole Juanita. Also, the Hun- 
garian goulash with spatzles and the roast capon Dixie 
are of the first order. 

Since its recent opening, the Fountain Room, just off 
the lobby, has become the most popular of the Palmer 
House luncheon places. It is decorated in hand-painted 
panels and features Chinese Chippendale furniture. The 

153 



8 5 cent table d'hote luncheon is unique here in that the 
polite colored waiters bring a silver tray bearing the 
three entrees, from which you may help yourself to your 
heart's content. 

Grandest of the Palmer House dining rooms is the 
Empire Room, done in soft green in the style of the time 
of the first Napoleon. Luncheon is a la carte, but 
there is a $2.50 table d'hote dinner, and both for lunch- 
eon and dinner music is supplied by the Palmer House 
String Quartet. The next largest dining room is the Vic- 
torian Room, decorated in white and gold with draperies 
of crimson, and dominated at one end by a large oil paint- 
ing of Queen Victoria. A $1.00 table d'hote luncheon 
is served here, also a la carte, and the table d'hote dinner 
is $2.00. 

The Chicago Room, located in the basement, is one 
of the novelty restaurants of the city. All four walls 
are so painted that one seems to be viewing the skyline 
of downtown Chicago from the roof of the Palmer 
House — the steam-plumed roofs of skyscrapers are all 
about, white clouds float across a summer sky, and to the 
east lies the blue vastness of Lake Michigan. The Special 
Casserole *Top" Dinner, at $1.50, is a feature of this 
room, the dishes being served from a casserole table at 
one end of the room. The table d'hote luncheon is 85 
cents. The basement of the Palmer House also con- 
tains a large counter lunch room, packed at noontime 
with Loop workers from surrounding office buildings. 

ART INSTITUTE Michigan Avemie, at Adams Street 
Here you may dine with the embryonic artists, sculp- 
tors, decorators, and architects of the town. It is also 

154 



a charming place in which to rest and have tea when 
you get "museum fatigue." At noon it is crowded with 
young men and women students from the various schools 
of the Art Institute. Cafeteria service is in the main 
lunch room. The tea room is in Mather Hall, adjoining, 
the walls of which contain colorful and whimsical 
murals of Art Institute life, the work of Ethel Spears 
and Louise Taylor. 
Maitresse d'botel: Blanch Aultman 

MAILLARD'S 30^ South Michigan Avenue 

Located on the ground floor of the towering Straus 
Building, this well-known Avenue restaurant has a front 
that is deceiving. It looks like a ritzy confectionery 
shop, but go inside and into the four basement dining 
rooms and you will be in one of the largest restaurants 
in Chicago, with a seating capacity of 1,200 persons. 
This establishment is a branch of the noted New York 
restaurant of the same name, founded eighty years ago 
by Henry Maillard, a French caterer, who supervised 
Abraham Lincoln's inaugural banquet. All of which 
means that the foods served here are of supreme quality. 
One of their outstanding specialties is chicken livers 
saute a la Maillard, with fried apple rings and fresh 
mushrooms. Daily, Maillard's has been crowded ever 
since its start here five years ago. The restaurant is 
richly furnished, very elegant, and French in atmos- 
phere. In the basement you will find the main dining 
room, the Gold Room, the College Room, the men's Old 
English Grill, and the *'Hall of Fame" in the foyer. 
Many operatic, musical, theatrical, and movie celebrities, 
as well as fashionable people and business executives, 

155 



have meals in Maillard's. Afternoon tea in Maillard's 
is a Chicago institution. By the by, if you want a 
thrill, have a light snack in their Tower Tea Room, 
located on the top-most floor of the Straus tower, which 
is only open between June first and September first. An 
amazing view of Chicago awaits you here. 
Maitre d'hotel: A. Richard Moulin 

THE PICCADILLY 410 South Michigan Avenue 

Located on the fourth floor of the Fine Arts Building 
and consisting of four '^period" dining rooms, the Pic- 
cadilly serves many of the town's outstanding artists, 
musicians, writers, and art patrons, as well as innumer- 
able illustrators, etchers, silversmiths, decorators, teach- 
ers of drama and elocution, booksellers, and dealers in 
antiques and curios. Most of these people occupy studios, 
shops and salons in the Fine Arts Building, an historic 
Chicago landmark dedicated to the arts and built by 
the Studebakers of South Bend, Indiana. The dining 
rooms are quietly and tastefully decorated in various 
period styles. The Empire Room is done in the green 
favored by Napoleon and Josephine in their home, 
Malmaison; the Early American Room is notable for its 
striking "Scenic America" wallpaper; the Venetian 
Court, where you may lunch or dine al fresco under gay 
umbrellas, is delightfully Continental; and the Men's 
Grill is like the refectory of an old Spanish monastery, 
with its (alleged) worm-eaten beams and dark oak 
furniture. Luncheon and dinner are served in all rooms 
(both table d'hote and a la carte), and tea is served be- 
tween 2:30 P.M. and 5 P.M. in the Empire and Early 
American Rooms, which offer splendid views of Chi- 

156 



cage's waterfront plaza. Prices are reasonable and the 
service is perfection. 
Mattre d'botel: Mr. Chapin 

AUDITORIUM Michigan Avenue, at Congress Street 
Most pleasurable of dining experiences along the 
Avenue is that to be found at the tables on the open- 
air balcony of the historic Auditorium Hotel, where 
you may eat your sirloin steak a la Auditorium while 
gazing down at the promenaders on the sidewalk and 
across to the sweeping Lake Front plaza, with its two 
Mestrovic Indian statues and the gushing Buckingham 
Memorial Fountain. The balcony, of course, is only 
open during the summer months. There is no additional 
charge and the luncheon and dinner menus here are the 
same as in the main dining room. Being on the second 
floor, the balcony is sufficiently close to the sidewalk 
below to be interesting. There is an 85 cent table 
d'hote luncheon and a $1.25 table d'hote dinner. 

The atmosphere of the Nineties is found in the main 
dining room, the Oak Room, and the Coffee Shop. Here 
are the same oak panelled rooms and ornate leaded glass 
windows that were so admired by our fathers and 
mothers when the Auditorium Hotel and Theatre, de- 
signed by the great architect, Louis H. Sullivan, were 
dedicated by President Harrison in 1888. Here, also, 
are the same tables where over two generations of opera- 
goers sat in their formal dress, until a few years ago 
when the Chicago Civic Opera Company deserted the 
incomparable old Auditorium Theatre for newer quar- 
ters. What is called the Oak Room now used to be the 

157 



Auditorium Bar, where conviviality was notable during 
pre-World War days. 

Today, the foods are o£ the same high quality as 
formerly and you will see many pioneer Chicago no- 
tables in the dining room. Chef Joseph Bencivenga has 
introduced a few highly edible specialties worth any 
epicure's attention. 
Mattre d'hotel: Peter Pampei 

THE CONGRESS 

Michigan Avenue, at Congress Street 
First of the four dining rooms that branch oflf at in- 
tervals from Peacock Alley, the Congress Hotel's famed 
avenue of fashion and sophistication, is the Louis XVI 
Room, where dinner is served and where, during the 
social season, you will see plenty of opera wraps and silk 
top hats. The room is large and lavishly decorated in 
the French style and the foods are of the best quality — 
that noted French chef, Lucien Raymond, presiding over 
the Congress Hotel kitchens. 

For luncheon, however, there are many guests of the 
hotel, as well as Michigan Avenue strollers, who prefer 
the smaller Pine Room, which occupies quarters between 
Peacock Alley and the Avenue. The walls are panelled 
in unfinished pine, and at the north wall there is a log 
cabin where a colored Mammy turns out those great 
American dishes. Aunt Jemima waffles with maple 
syrup and Aunt Jemima pancakes. The table d'hote 
luncheon is $1.00 and the table d'hote dinner is $1.50. 
The small dining room on the floor above the Pine Room 
is a popular afternoon tea rendezvous. Sandwiches, 

158 



salads, pastries, ice cream, and fruits and preserves, are 
featured here. 

Further down Peacock Alley, on the opposite side, is 
the PompeLian Grill Room, most famous of Congress 
Hotel dining rooms, and its equally famous chef, Alfred 
Fries. Chef Fries has presided over this room for twenty 
years, and his typical American dishes have been the 
delight of hundreds of celebrities from all over the 
world who have eaten here. He is now an authority on 
our native edibles, his "The Blue Book of American 
Dishes" being the most comprehensive cook book on the 
subject so far written. 

The Pompeiian Room, as its name might imply, is 
very luxurious and elegant and Roman. It is said 
that Burne -Jones declared it to be the most beautiful 
room in America. The squat green fountain in the center 
of the room, made of fevrile glass and tinkling with 
the sound of water, was exhibited in the World's 
Columbian Exhibition in 1893. Roosevelt, Taft, Hard- 
ing, Caruso, and Al Smith have dined here in the past — 
to name only a few of an endless number of renowned 
people who have patronized the Pompeiian Grill. And 
celebrities of this sort still come here. 

The menu of the Pompeiian Room is a la carte and 
there is a dance orchestra, but for night club atmos- 
phere, you must seek the Balloon Room, at the end of 
Peacock Alley. This unique after-theatre dine-and- 
dance place was designed by H. L. Kaufman, for twenty 
years president of the hotel and an artist. It is done 
in orange and black; lights from a slowly revolving 
chandelier of mirrors continually circle about the room 
like a swirling snowstorm; and the dance floor is fringed 

159 



with colored glass under which electric lights shine. 
D. W. Griffith is reported to have used the design of the 
Balloon Room, with its novel lighting effects, in one of 
his pictures. You may dance here from 10 P.M. to 
2 A.M. The service is a la carte and no cover charge. 
Art Kahn and his orchestra provide the music. 

What used to be the Congress Bar, on the Congress 
Street side of the hotel, is now a coffee shop. The foods 
served here are of the same high quality as those served 
in the other eating parlors of the Congress. The coffee 
shop is mostly patronized by men. 
Maitre d'hotel: Ray R. Barrete 

THE BLACKSTONE 

Michigait Avenue, at jth Street 
For over two decades the most exclusive and renowned 
hotel in downtown Chicago, the Blackstone, in its vari- 
ous dining rooms, offers a cuisine equal to that of the 
Savoy in London, the Ritz in Paris, or the Ritz in New 
York, both in excellence of preparation and variety. 
Here are all the principal dishes of Continental cookery, 
as well as those of domestic brand, prepared by a large 
staff of expert cooks and confectioners according to the 
recipes of some of the world's foremost chefs. If you 
are an epicure — and more so if you are not — you will 
receive the culinary thrill of your life in gazing over the 
Blackstone's catalogued a la cart menu, an impressive 
folio containing almost every dish eaten by civilized 
man. That great epicure, Lucullus, would turn in his 
catacomb were he to see this menu and the prices are 
higher than a cat's back. 

Such gastronomical lavishness is in keeping with the 

160 



traditions started by John B. Drake, first of the Drake 
family in Chicago, whose sons, Tracy Drake and John 
B. Drake II, built the Blackstone in 1910. 

Not a little of the culinary fame of the Blackstone, 
however, is due to the specialites de la maison created 
by the late August Becker, chef here for over nine years. 
Nowhere, not even in Europe, can you get such delicious 
creations in foods — eggs Becker, omelette Becker, breast 
of chicken Becker, sweetbreads Becker, Virginia ham 
Becker, steak a la Blackstone, Blackstone mixed grill, 
Blackstone salad, the Blackstone sandwich, and the 
coupe Becker. These specialties may also be obtained 
at the Drake Hotel, operated by John B. Drake II and 
III and William Drake. And, since we are mentioning 
names in this paragraph, those of Frederick H. Muller, 
head of the purchasing department at the Blackstone, 
and Otto C. Staack, maitre d'hotel, should not be left 
out. Muller, a veteran in the service of the Drake 
family, is one of the foremost authorities on foodstuffs 
in Chicago, while Staack was private steward to the 
former Emperor Wilhelm in the early years of the 
century. 

For dinner, of course, nearly everyone goes to the 
main dining room, done in the Louis XVI style and 
commanding an impressive view over Michigan Avenue 
and Chicago's Lake Front. It is a high-ceilinged hall, 
old ivory in tone and modeled after the Petit Trianon 
at Versailles. The service is of the highest perfection 
and you can get everything here from that popular 
Russian dish, Blenis Romanoff, to that great American 
entree, young turkey, from the green hills of Vermont. 

161 



There is music during luncheon and dinner and the 
menu is a la carte. Visiting diplomats, captains of in- 
dustry, opera stars, financiers, governors and senators 
and the first families of Chicago may be seen here almost 
any evening. 

The Blackstone Club Grill, in the basement, is 
crowded during luncheon and especially before matinees 
on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when women theatre- 
goers occupy most of the tables. It is decorated in the 
old English style, with walls of panelled walnut and 
walnut furniture, and an open charcoal and electric 
grill occupies one corner of the room. A table d'hote 
matinee luncheon is served here for $1.50 per cover. 
Four o'clock tea is the main offering in the Marble 
Room, located oflF the lobby. 
Mattre d'hotel: Otto C. Staack 

SHEPARD TEA ROOM 

616 South Michigan Avenue 
Sssh! We are whispering this to you in the strictest 
confidence and want you to be sure not to tell any- 
body: the lowdown on the Shepard Tea Room is that 
it is an inexpensive eating place for many actors and 
actresses and others who stop next door in the swanky 
and expensive Blackstone Hotel. It is situated at the 
rear of an arcade of small shops in the lobby of the 
Arcade Building and therefore away from the gaze of 
Michigan Avenue promenaders. And we don't blame 
the theatrical fold — and the others too — for coming 
here, since the food is very good and the prices are 
nothing if not reasonable. 

162 



LAURA JACOBSEN'S 1014 South Michigan Avenue 
This place is a large dining room, with no particular 
decorative features, but serving food of substantial and 
wholesome quality. It is open for luncheon and dinner 
and the menu is both table d'hote and a la carte, and 
prices are within the means of the average person. 
Patronized mostly by business executives in the big sky- 
scrapers at the south end of the downtown district, and 
by clubwomen from nearby Avenue clubs. This is a 
branch of the older establishment at 5311 Lake Park 
Avenue, in Hyde Park, founded by Laura Jacobsen 
many years ago. 

THE STEVENS 

Michigan Avenue, between 7th and 8 th Streets 
James W. Stevens and his son, Ernest J. (present head 
of the Stevens Hotel), introduced a quaint and unique 
culinary custom into Chicago life when, a few years 
back, they celebrated in their hotel the first Colchester 
Oyster Feast to be held in America. It occurred on 
Hallowe'en, and the Colchester Grill of the Stevens 
that evening was crowded with the beauty and brilliance 
of the Windy City. Since then, the feast has been held 
annually in the Colchester Grill and it is always eagerly 
looked forward to by many of the town's gourmets, 
fashionables, and antiquarians. 

In building what even a New Yorker will agree is 
the world's largest hotel, the Stevenses made provisions 
for honoring the birthplace of their ancestors, Colchester, 
England, by conferring the name Colchester Grill on 
one of their dining rooms. Colchester is a town situated 
on the Colne River and is famous for its oyster beds. 

163 



History records that the Oyster Feast was first celebrated 
in 1086, in early Norman days. Each year the date for 
the feast is set by the Lord Mayor of Colchester. This 
usually occurs in the latter part of October, but at the 
Stevens it is definitely celebrated on Hallowe'en. Specif- 
ically, the feast marks the official opening of the oyster 
eating season and is an occasion for much feasting and 
music and dancing. 

On this night, the Colchester Grill menu ($2.50 per 
person) is replete with old-fashioned English dishes, 
beginning with giant Colchester native oysters on the 
half shell, working through such substantial entrees as 
York ham steak, grilled, with champagne sauce and 
English chutney, or English roast beef with Yorkshire 
pudding, and winding up with English plum pudding 
with brandy sauce. After the meal, the Colchester 
Oyster Show, consisting of vaudeville acts and other 
forms of entertainment, begins in the Grand Ball Room 
of the hotel. Afterwards, you may dance to your 
heart's content. 

The Colchester Grill, a beautifully decorated and 
furnished room, is located on the first floor at the north 
end of the hotel and its walls are painted with mural 
scenes depicting the art and customs of Colchester. At 
the entrance to the room you will see the portrait bust of 
Mr. Justice Lent John Watts, mayor of Colchester, Eng- 
land, in 1890, the work of H. Charles Grimwood, noted 
English sculptor. There is a table d'hote luncheon for 
85 cents and you can buy a similar dinner for $1.50. 
An orchestra furnishes music. 

Largest of the dining rooms at the Stevens is the 
main dining room, overlooking Michigan Avenue and 

164 



the Lake Front. It is a large, magnificent room, done 
in the Louis XVI style, and adorned with elaborate 
murals by Norman Tolson. An interesting item on the 
dinner menu is the English Compartment Plate Combi- 
nation for $1.25. There is also a $2.00 table d'hote 
dinner. On the luncheon menu, the Plate Combination 
is 75 cents and the table d'hote $1.25. Music is furnished 
by the Stevens orchestra. 

At the south end of the hotel, just off Colchester Lane, 
is located the Oak Room, panelled in sandblasted oak 
and furnished with the most comfortable of chairs. It 
is a smaller eating place and ideal for conversationally 
inclined lunchers or diners. A 60 cent breakfast, a 
l*) cent luncheon and a $1.50 dinner are served here. 
There is music during dinner. 

Something of a novelty is found in the Japanese 
Lunch Room, a counter eating place located in the base- 
ment and popular at noon among South Michigan 
Avenue office workers. The walls are decorated with 
scenic murals of Japan, and look for all the world like 
greatly enlarged Japanese prints. It is open from 6:30 
A.M. to 2:00 P.M. 
Mattre d'hotel: Johii Thoss 

LITTLE COZZI'S 1468 South Michigan Avenue 

Little "Mickey" Cozzi, who conducted a popular 
restaurant on West Taylor Street, among the fruit 
stands of the west side Italian quarter, recently moved 
his chef and staff of waiters and tables and chairs into 
this old brown-stone residence in South Michigan Ave- 
nue, thereby providing the salesmen and business men 
of "Auto Row" a chance to partake of his excellent 

165 



Italian board, Cozzi's spaghetti with mushrooms is very 
savory, and so are his veal scallopine and ravioli. His 
friends from all over town have followed him here, and 
at dinner the place is crowded. 
Mattre d'hotel: Mickey Cozzi 

LITTLE FLORENCE 2132 South Michigan Avenue 
Now we are about two miles south of the Loop, in 
the vicinity of 22nd Street, which, in the old days, was 
Chicago's **Tenderloin,** or, as it was called, the red 
light district. The Little Florence Italian Grill is located 
across the street from the old Lexington Hotel, alleged 
headquarters of the eminent Mr, "Scarface Al" Capone. 
This almost mythical gent and some of his retainers are 
said to eat their spaghetti not infrequently in the Little 
Florence. We don't know whether this is true or not, 
but we do know that the Italian dishes served here are 
on a par with those served in other well-known Italian 
restaurants of the town. Also, in case you should want 
to know, you are as safe in the Little Florence as you are 
in a church. The foods are good, the prices reasonable, 
and the waiters polite. 

BLOCK'S 1 1 6 East 22nd Street 

Situated on the ground floor of the Lexington Hotel, 
a few doors east of Michigan Avenue, this place has been 
on 22nd Street a good many years and enjoys a heavy 
patronage of men from surrounding automobile agencies 
and business houses. The restaurant offers both counter 
and table service and the food is commendable and 
varied. 

166 



AROUND THE WORLD 

If you are one of those persons who have a natural 
curiosity about all phases of life in a big city — and we 
hope you are, or else you're missing a lot — there is no 
pleasanter adventure we know of than that of eating 
strange and exotic dishes in some obscure cafe or coffee 
house of a crowded foreign quarter. An adventure of 
this sort is also of keen interest to epicures who have 
travelled widely and acquired a taste for the viands of 
those countries they have visited. 

Chicago, a bubbling melting-pot of practically all the 
principal races in the world, offers splendid opportu- 
nities for gastronomical gallivantings in foreign fields. 
On the north side you will find the large German area, 
with its many eating houses, and also the Swedish dis- 
trict; northwest, along Milwaukee Avenue, lie the Polish 
and Russian quarters; on the west side exist most of the 
foreign quarters — the Greek, Mexican, Italian, Jewish, 
Roumanian, and Bohemian; the Chinese, Arab, and 
Japanese neighborhoods are found on the near south 
side; in the Loop are an English chop house and a 
corned beef and cabbage restaurant favored by the 
Irish; and just north of the Loop are two Filipino res- 

167 



taurants, as well as a number of French eating places. 
In the event that you are fastidious about the food 
you eat, let us emphasize that the kitchens of the for- 
eign restaurants named in this chapter can bear the 
closest scrutiny as to cleanliness. They are open for your 
inspection any time and we are sure that you will have 
no cause for complaint. 



CHINESE 

WON KOW 22^ 5 Wentworth Avenue 

Not just another chop suey parlor, but truly Chinese, 
and situated in the middle of Chicago's 22nd Street 
Chinatown, a mile or so south of the downtown district. 
It is as Chinese as your laundry slip — in cuisine, ap- 
pointments, and clientele. But Americans come here 
too — judges, city officials, newspaper people, and theatri- 
cal folk. All of these visitors know Frank Moy, 
the venerable "Mayor of Chinatown," who, with 
his chief aid, Tom Toy Lee, is part owner of the Won 
Kow Restaurant. Order chicken bird's nest soup, fried 
shrimps, chicken chow mein subgum, and kumquats if 
you want a typical Cantonese dinner. The waiters here 
are very courteous and will show you how to use chop 
sticks in case you don't know how to handle them. 
Observing discreetly the manner in which the Chinese 
diners eat is an interesting diversion — and might be of 

168 



help to you in using the sticks. After you have finished 
your meal, visit the Chinese ''city hall" across the street, 
a large temple occupied by the On Leong Chinese Mer- 
chants Association, of which Mr. Lee is president and 
Mr. Moy secretary. They welcome visitors and the 
beautiful rooms are worth seeing. The Won Kow is 
open until 2 A.M. 

Mattre d'botel: Mr. Lee (not Tom Toy) 



ARABIAN 

ORIENTAL CAFE 1Z14 South Wabash Avenue 

From the Far East to the Near East is but a step in 
Chicago. You have only to walk a few blocks north 
of Chinatown and you are in the Arab quarter at 1 8th 
Street and "Wabash Avenue. Here we turn you over to 
Mr. Jamiel Salamy, an educated Arab rug merchant and 
part owner of the Oriental Cafe, which is a typical base- 
ment coflfee house of the quarter. He'll explain every- 
thing and serve you the sort of meal the Bedouins eat 
in the holy city of Mecca, say, or in the desert villages 
of Arabia — kibbeh, made from meat ground with wheat, 
fried, and then cut into little squares; arische mahshi, 
grape leaves rolled in the form of sausages and stuffed 
with rice and bits of lamb; and melfoof mahshi, which 
is rolled cabbage. The dessert consists of baklawa and 

169 



Turkish coffee served demi-tasse. The Oriental Cafe 
is unpretentious but clean. 

Mattre d' hotel: Jamiel Salamy, or his brother Jaleel 
Salamy 



JAPANESE 

MRS. SHINTANFS 3725 Lake Park Avenue 

Here is something delightful and exotic — a full 
course Japanese meal. Mrs. Shintani prepares it right 
on the table before you, Japanese style, using a little 
kitchenette size gas stove. You gaze interestedly as 
she cooks the raw meats and vegetables preparatory to 
serving a typical Nipponese suki-yaki meal. The table 
is covered with tiny tea cups, bowls of rice, chop sticks, 
and a cruet of soy sauce. There is nothing mysterious 
about a suki-yaki meal; it simply means a method of 
cooking thinly sliced pieces of beef in a frying pan at 
the table. Vegetables and various Japanese sauces are 
added during the cooking process and, after being fried 
sufficiently, the suki-yaki, to be eaten with rice, is served 
to each guest. Chop sticks, of course, should be used, 
but you may use an ordinary American fork. Once you 
eat a suki-yaki meal you'll swear it is the most savory 
that has ever touched your palate. The boys from the 
Japanese Y. M. C. A., down the street a bit, come to 
Mrs. Shintani's board. She cooked for Prince and 

170 



Princess Takamatsu, the royal honeymooners from 
Japan, when they visited Chicago. Should you desire 
a Japanese meal, you must call Mrs. Shintani on the 
phone a day in advance. Her number is Oakland 2775. 
Don't miss this opportunity. 



GREEK 

PANHELLENIC RESTAURAlSfT 

711 South Halsted Street 
The best lamb chops in town. Leave it to a Greek 
chef to prepare lamb chops in just the right way; he 
ought to know because lamb is to the Greeks what 
mutton is to the English. Here, they bring you a lamb 
chop — thick, juicy and broiled to the proper turn. 
We recommend their admirable chicken soup with ver- 
micelli, and the French fried potatoes and combination 
salad, suffused with olive oil, to go with your chops. 
For dessert, there is thick black Turkish coflfee, and, 
if you're willing, genuine white Greek cheese. There is 
also that Balkan sweetmeat, baklawa. The Panhellenic, 
in the midst of the South Halsted Street Greektown, is 
clean, attractive, features cozy booths and the waiters 
are polite. Many of the social service workers from 
Hull-House, in the vicinity, dine here. An attractive 
section of the Panhellenic is the summer garden, situated 
at the rear of the restaurant in a small yard. You sit in 
trelliswork stalls, a fountain bubbles, flowers and vines 

171 



are all about, and the summer stars twinkle over your 
head. A delightful quiet place. All told, the Panhel- 
lenic is worth a visit. 

Maitre d^hotel: Mr. Tsouloufis 



MEXICAN 

EL PUERTO DE VERA CRUZ 

811 South Halsted Street 
Consuls and consular attaches from Latin-American 
countries, Mexican caricature artists, Spanish tenors 
from the Civic Opera, residents of Hull-House, news- 
papermen, sightseeing students from the universities, 
and gourmets — all these indulge their fondness for "hot" 
dishes in this little unpretentious Mexican restaurant 
directly across the street from Jane Addams' famed tene- 
ment community center, Hull-House. Conducted by 
the good Senor Juan Malpica, this place serves an ex- 
cellent Mexican cuisine — sopa de arroz, a rich and tasty 
rice soup with meat broth, not too hot; gallina con 
molle poblado, which is chicken with a thick sauce 
made, as its name implies, from "everything in the 
kitchen;" the familiar frijoles refritos, consisting of 
boiled beans, pulped and fried and served with Parmesan 
cheese and raw Spanish onions; tortillas, like very thin 
pancakes made of corn flour; and chocolate y pan, or, 
in other words, hot spiced chocolate, which is the na- 
tional beverage. Some of the well-known persons who 
come here frequently are Al Careno, the Mexican cari- 

172 



cature artist; Silvano Ramos, the singer; Paco Parafan, 
the dancer; Sam Fragas, editor of Mexico; Senor Busta- 
mente, the pianist; and Senor Rafael Aveleyra, the Mexi- 
can consul. The Puerto de Vera Cruz is open until late. 

Maitre d' hotel: Juan Mai pica 



ITALIAN 

AMATO'S CAFE 914 South Halsted Street 

Spaghetti restaurants are as plentiful in all parts of 
town as chop suey parlors, but to get spaghetti in its 
true native state you must go to the west side Little 
Italy centering about South Halsted and Taylor Streets 
— and to Amato's, when you get there. Amato's won- 
derful antipasto; his heaping plates of spaghetti Na- 
politano, sprinkled with mushrooms and covered with a 
sauce having the faintest suggestion of garlic; his ad- 
mirable roast chickens or his scallopine of veal al Marsala 
— these are the dishes which attract Italian opera singers, 
judges, business men and politicians as well as diners-out 
from other parts of the city. The place is one flight up, 
clean and comfortable, and the atmosphere is typically 
Italian — which, in other words, means hospitable. Prices 
average. Open all night. 

Maitre d'hotel: Amato Magialuzzo 

Other good Italian restaurants in the neighborhood 

173 



are JOHN CITRO'S, 1014 South Halsted Street; 
SPINO'S, 942 Polk Street; and the MAULELLA RES- 
TAURANT, 768 Taylor Street. 



JEWISH 

STRULEVITZ TEA HOUSE 

929 West Roosevelt Road 
Meet Papa Elias Strulevitz, proprietor of one of the 
most interesting Jewish restaurants in town. Papa 
Elias comes from Roumania and his establishment is a 
mixture of Jewish cafe, Russian tea house, and American 
restaurant, all rolled into one — which gives it a unique 
atmosphere. His wife and his sister-in-law do the cook- 
ing — and how they can cook. The food is plain, fresh, 
wholesome, kosher, and served in a most palatable style, 
and you can get all forms of Continental dishes here, 
from Russian kasha and Roumanian steaks, to Jewish 
gefiilte fish and chicken blintzes. Before Papa Elias 
moved to this roomy street-corner restaurant a few 
months ago, he served his meals in his little west side 
home a short distance away on Sangamon Street. There 
came the bons vivants and diners-out of the town — 
Francis Coughlin, then on the staff of The Chicagoan; 
John Landesco, the Roumanian criminologist; Morris 
Topchevsky, the painter; the Roumanian consul; stu- 
dents from the various universities; and lots of other 
interesting people who like good foods. Today, they 

174 



have followed Papa Elias to his new place. He serves 
luncheon and dinner — and we advise you not to miss 
him. By the by, Papa Elias is quite a personality himself. 

Maitre d'hotel: Elias Strulevitz 



ROUMANIAN 

GOLDSTEIN'S ^21 West 14th Street 

A tenderloin steak, as only the Roumanians know how 
to prepare it, awaits you in this unassuming restau- 
rant on the first floor of Mrs. Goldstein's home over in 
the Valley. Mrs. Goldstein, who is manager, cashier, wait- 
ress and chef, prepares all of her steaks as in her native 
Roumania — that is, by broiling over a charcoal fire. 
The result is something that touches the palate in the 
same manner that a Beethoven sonata touches the soul. 
And you may pick out your own steak and watch her 
broil it in the kitchen, noting incidentally the cleanli- 
ness of her kitchen and everything in it. Served with 
her delicious combination salad, pickles, and appetizing 
rye bread (which has caraway seeds in it), this steak 
dinner is something that will remain long in your mem- 
ory. And don't forget to make ample use of the tiny 
dried seeds from the red pepper pods on the table — 
these give your steak an added tang. Mrs. Goldstein 
serves only two other entrees, broiled liver and sweet- 

175 



breads. For an appetizer, she serves anchovies and, on 
certain days, chopped chicken Hver. We heartily rec- 
ommend Goldstein's when your thoughts turn toward 
a steak. This was the favorite eating place of Tine 
Bimbo, king of the gypsies. Open until midnight. 

Maitre d'hotel: Mrs. Goldstein 



BOHEMIAN 

GLASER'S CAFE 35 51 West 26th Street 

Where the musicians, newspaper editors, writers, and 
leaders of the west side Bohemian quarter foregather. 
Dr. Jaroslav Smetanka, consul for Czechoslovakia, 
comes here when in the mood for his native Bohemian 
viands; here many visiting celebrities from the home- 
land are banqueted; here also Mayor Anton Cermak ate 
in the days when he was a minor political figure. Charles 
Glaser, who is somewhat of a bibliophile and philosopher 
in addition to being a first-rate restaurateur, has been 
conducting this place on the main business street of the 
Bohemian quarter for the past thirteen years and his 
friends are legion. All the well-known Bohemian dishes 
are on the Glaser menu — plum dumpling, with poppy- 
seeds or cottage cheese (served only between the months 
of June and December) ; roast duck with sauerkraut; 
Prague salami with raw onions; roast goose and roast loin 

176 



of pork, both with sauerkraut; liver sausage; and the 
various delightful Bohemian pastries, such as kolacky 
and buchty smaken. Glasher's is open from 7 A.M. 
to 1 A.M. and the menu is a la carte. 
Mattre d' hotel: Charles Glaser 



RUSSIAN 

RUSSIAN WORKERS' CO-OPERATIVE 

RESTAURANT 162S West Division Street 

Situated in the Russian quarter on the northwest side, 
this dining place has a menu that would certainly make 
an underfed comrade over in Soviet Russia green with 
envy. For not only do you find here a comprehensive 
line of ordinary American foods but all the standard 
Russian dishes are on the menu — borscht, that tasty 
thick red soup consisting of beets and milk; kasha, made 
of buckwheat grits with a sauce of bacon and mush- 
rooms, and goluptse, which is rolled cabbage stuffed 
with various meats. A tumbler of amber-tinted Rus- 
sian tea, some fruit, and a cigarette finishes off the meal 
nicely. Now that you are at leisure, look about you 
and observe the comrades reading The Daily Worker, 
for this is a dining place for communists as well as for 
old conservative White Russians. It is spotlessly clean and 
the prices are reasonable. And don't be afraid — nobody 
will toss a bomb. 

Mattre d' hotel: Mr. Kutzko 

177 



POLISH 

LENARD'S RESTAURANT 

1182 Milwaukee Avenue 
As for Polish viands, you will find these done to per- 
fection in Mr. Ignace Lenard's establishment on Mil- 
waukee Avenue, around the corner from the Russian 
eating place. A quick glance over the menu shows that 
the Polish people are great lovers of mushrooms and 
use them as a garniture for many of their important 
dishes. We recommend the Zrazki po Nelsonsku or, 
in other words, the beef filet a la Nelson, which comes 
to you arrayed in sour cream gravy, mushrooms and 
potatoes, served en casserole. Or you might like another 
of Mr. Lenard's specialties — meat balls with mushrooms. 
Cheese pancakes, the way they are prepared here, make 
a delectable accompanying dish. And Mr. Lenard's 
three expert pastry cooks from Krakow provide you 
with as bewildering an assortment of frothy, toothsome, 
and delicious things to eat with your coffee as you may 
find in all Chicago. Lenard's is the headquarters of 
prominent Polish-American gourmets of the city — 
County Judge Edmund K. Jarecki, City Treasurer M. 
S. Szymczak; the two bankers, August J. Kowalski and 
Julius Smetanka, and John Romaszkiewicz, president of 
the Polish National Alliance. Polish newspapermen and 
business men, and their families, eat here too. 

Maitre d* hotel: Mr. Lenard 

178 



GERMAN 

LINCOLN TURNER HALL CAFE 

1005 Diver sey Parkway 

Like a breath from Unter den Linden. A German 
orchestra plays compositions by Strauss, Mozart, and 
Wagner; imported oil paintings adorn the walls; the 
dining room is large and colorful, with red predominat- 
ing; waiters of thick accent careen hither and yon with 
steins of (near) beer; stout Teutonic papas and their 
families eat sauerbraten or kartoffel kloesse; and all is 
lively, crowded, colorful, and Continental. 

The dining room is located on the ground floor of 
the Lincoln Turner Hall, an old landmark in the center 
of the north side German area. It is conducted by 
August and Fred Marx, cousins, who formerly ran 
Marx's *'Beer Tunnel," a basement sauerkraut and beer 
establishment in the Loop in the old days. They are 
widely known among German-Americans of the city 
and many of their old friends are always present at din- 
ner in the Lincoln Turner Hall dining room. 

Music is featured only during dinner. The table 
d'hote dinners are $1.00 and $1.25; luncheons are 50 and 
75 cents. All of the standard German dishes are on the 
menu, as well as the regular American items, and the 
cooking here is in the hands of expert German chefs. 

Mattre d'hotel: August Marx 

179 



SWEDISH 

IDROTT SWEDISH CO-OPERATIVE CAFE 

3204 Wilton Avenue 

One of the interesting restaurants in Chicago. Owned 
and conducted entirely by the residents of Herring 
Lane, as the Swedish neighborhood along Belmont Ave- 
nue, on the north side, is called. Organized into a so- 
ciety, they elect officers to manage the restaurant and 
all other activities which have made of their modern 
two-story building a sort of Swedish community center. 
They have a library, public bakery, lecture hall and 
card rooms. Waitresses will serve coffee while you read 
your newspaper or play checkers. But it is the food we 
are concerned with — and what food! What rare ar- 
rangements in fish — fresh, salted, smoked or lye soaked. 
This last is the justly celebrated Swedish lutfisk, a kind 
of cod fish given a lye treatment but, of course, cleansed 
thoroughly of lye before serving. It's very appetizing. 
But don't begin your meal until you have paid your 
gustatory respects to the smorgasbord — that great Swed- 
ish institution, similar to the French hors d'oeuvres, but 
far more expansive. It is a table loaded down with ap- 
petizers of all kinds — fish, cheeses, sausages, cold meats, 
olives, celery — and you may help yourself to as much 
as you like. For typical Swedish entrees there is kott- 
bullar, which means meat balls, or stekt salt sill, the 
familiar salt herring, fried. And to be really Swedish 
you must eat either Swedish rye bread or the hard- 
tackish knackebrod with this meal. On Thursdays they 

180 



serve a special Swedish dinner composed of pea soup, 
potato sausages and plattar, which is a small Swedish 
pancake, especially delicious with the Lingonberry jam 
that goes with it. Anybody may eat at the Idrott Cafe 
and the prices are amazingly cheap. 

Maitre d'botel: Mr. Carlson 



FILIPINO 

MANILA VILLAGE CAFE 8 3 7 North La Salle Street 
Filipino cookery, a combination of Oriental, Spanish, 
and native edibles, is something new in Chicago and is 
fast winning the favor of Chicago friends of the Fil- 
ipinos as well as lovers of foreign viands. Here, in this 
plain undecorated restaurant in the basement of the 
Filipino Community Center, these dishes from over the 
Pacific are prepared in a highly appetizing manner and 
in true native style. There is pansit, a sort of appetizer 
composed of ravioli, bits of meat, noodles and dried 
shrimps; adobo, an entree, which is spare ribs of pork, 
fried, steamed, and served in a transparent brown gravy 
with just a touch of garlic in it; and shrimps guisado, 
composed of shrimps and celery suffused with soy sauce; 
and Filipino cabbage and chop suey. And, as in Chinese 
and Japanese restaurants, you are supposed to eat plenty 
of rice from the bowl before you. Most of the boys 
from the surrounding Filipino colony eat here, as well 
as the local leaders of the race, including Pablo Katigbak, 

181 



staff writer of the Chicago Daily Netus, There is an- 
other Fihpino restaurant around the block on the second 
floor at 642 North Clark Street, where the same native 
dishes are served. It is conducted by Pedro Abicilla, 
who is a student at the University of Chicago. Visitors 
are welcomed at both places. 



182 



DINING IN BOHEMIA 

Tower Town, the Greenwich Village or the Latin 
Quarter of Chicago, lies across the river on the near 
north side. It derives its name from the old Chicago 
Avenue water tower, an historic landmark at Chicago 
Avenue and Upper Michigan Avenue, in the center of 
the district. 

What its boundaries are, it is hard to define; some 
aspects of it are found in the elegant precincts of the 
Gold Coast north of Division Street, but it is safe to 
assume that Tower Town life does not definitely get 
under way until after Division Street is crossed south- 
ward; parts of it are also found west of Clark Street; 
at its lower end, it jumps Michigan Avenue and goes 
eastward into Streeterville, that area of ritzy apartment 
hotels; on the south it ends abruptly at Grand Avenue. 
State Street is the main north-south highway through 
it, and Chicago Avenue bisects it from east to west. 

Now that you have a more or less geographical lay- 
out of Tower Town, the rest is up to you. We offer 
you the following selection of curious and quaint and 
foreign eating places in Tower Town with the hope that, 
somewhere among them, you will find that elusive some- 

183 



thing which causes people to go to Greenwich Village 
in New York or to the Latin Quarter in Paris. Any- 
way, we hope you have a good time. 

RAVENNA RESTAURANT 

1205 North La Salle Street 
Hungarian food and atmosphere. Like a little cafe 
in old Budapest. No artificial "scenery" but the at- 
mosphere is as Hungarian as the delightful goulash that 
Gene Ziegler serves. Popular among the bohemians of 
Tower Town, newspapermen, artists, and visiting Hun- 
garian theatrical stars. Pen portraits of many of the 
celebs who visit here line the walls. Real Hungarian 
gypsy musicians play the tunes of Franz Liszt and 
other Continental composers, as well as Hungarian folk 
ballads, from 6 P.M. to 2 A.M. Gene Ziegler, the 
hearty proprietor, sometimes cooks savory specialties 
himself, as does Bill, the popular head waiter. Naturally, 
such Hungarian dishes as chicken paprika, rolled stuflFed 
cabbage, sausage, and goulash, are served better here 
than elsewhere in the town. There is a 65 cent table 
d'hote dinner. Lincoln 1702. 



MARGHERITA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 

1121 North State Street 
Good spaghetti and ravioli from the hands of a chef 
who knows his business. Not a few debs and their boy 
friends from the Gold Coast nearby are seen here nightly. 
There is a seven course table d'hote dinner for $L00. 
Cuisine Francaise et Italienne. One flight up. Dela- 
ware 0466. 

184 



NORTH STAR INN 1 5 West Division Street 

Another Italian place, here for many years. Occupies 
an old one-story stucco house. Small-time actors and 
actresses from the nearby Claridge Hotel, newspaper- 
men, artists, and couples stealing away from formal 
dances at the Drake Hotel, come here during the late 
hours. One section has tables and the other cozy booths. 
Ask for Adolph. Delaware 0592. 

A BIT OF SWEDEN 1011 Rush Street 

One of the quaintest and most charming of the many 
foreign restaurants in Tower Town. It is a high-class 
Swedish peasant restaurant and the foods are delicious 
and wholesome. You help yourself to all the appetizers 
you want — sardines, herring, cheese, olives, celery, 
salad — from the smorgasbord, or Swedish hors d'oeuvres 
table. Prices are reasonable and luncheon and dinner 
are served. The room is appropriately decorated with 
Swedish objets d'art and the blonde waitresses are in 
costume. Delaware 1492. 



LA ROSETTA 1045 Rush Street 

Occupying an old mansion. La Rosetta has been here 
for a long time. And there's a reason. Excellent 
Italian and French dishes, and the personality of the 
great Gino himself, have been the factors which built 
up this establishment's clientele — some of whom are 
Gold Coasters. The atmosphere is dignified and Con- 
tinental and there are always interesting people at the 
tables. Delaware 0468. 

185 



CAFE KANTONESE 1005 Rush Street 

Chinese cuisine in a small place that is modern and 
colorful in decoration rather than Chinese. No teak- 
wood tables or mother-of-pearl furniture. Here, the 
bohemians eat plenty of chop suey and chicken chow 
mein when they have the price — which isn*t often. 

BALLANTINE'S 942 Rush Street 

Established by Edward B. Ballantine, formerly of the 
exclusive Casino Club. The steaks and chops served 
here rate high in quality, and the other dishes are of no 
small merit. Open for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and 
after-the-theatre. Both a la carte and table d'hote serv- 
ice. The front portion of the restaurant contains high 
oaken booths while at the rear is a large dining room, 
done in the English tavern style. Delaware 0050. 

SEVEN ARTS 12 1/2 West Delaware Place 

Here is bohemia — if you must have it. This is a typical 
Tower Town forum, located on the second floor of an 
old stable at the rear of a garden. Lectures are held 
here on Saturday and Sunday nights. Anybody may 
go — if he pays the small admission charge. But the 
point that concerns us is that food is served here — 
mostly sandwiches, salads, and coflfee or tea. We men- 
tion the Seven Arts in case you want to eat in a truly 
bohemian atmosphere. 

SOUTHERN TEA SHOP 47 East Oak Street 

A quiet and charming tea room in a brownstone 
front, where prices are very reasonable and the colored 
waitresses are polite and attentive. Such specialties of 

186 



the Southland as Southern fried chicken, date torte, and 
hot Southern biscuits are popular items on the menu. 
The table d'hote luncheon is 50 cents and the dinner is 
75 cents. This is No. 2 of the tea shop chain established 
by Miss Annie Sara Bock, a well-known Chicago restau- 
rateur. Delaware 0817. 

TORINO ITALIAN RESTAURANT 

104 East Oak Street 
Another eating parlor occupying an old residence. A 
stone's throw from Lake Shore Drive, the Torino has its 
share of the beau monde among its patrons. Italian 
dishes, as you may readily guess, are offered here. It is 
open until late at night and is most crowded after the 
theatre. Delaware 3889. 

TOWER TOWN TEA ROOM 43 East Oak Street 
Luncheons and dinners at prices within the means of 
those who live in the many studios and rooming houses 
of the near north side. The food served here has its 
merits and the waitresses are alert and civil. Delaware 
2047. 

K-9 CLUB 105 East Walton Place 

An odd sort of a place, serving luncheons, dinners, 
and after-theatre suppers — in fact, any kind of meal 
any time of day or night. The luncheons are 3 5 cents. 
Stenographers from the Palmolive Building on Michigan 
Avenue come here, as well as clerks and taxi drivers. 
It is alleged to be an eating place for radio and theatrical 
stars, but few, if any, are ever seen here. Photographs 
of the stars adorn the walls. Once, a dog club occupied 

187 



these quarters, hence the name **K-9." The place fea- 
tures Pig's Feet Alley, where pig's feet are served. Dela- 
ware 0605. 

THE WALTON TEA HOUSE 75 East Walton Place 
A pleasant tea room with New England atmosphere, 
occupying a cottage. Foods are wholesome and the cook- 
ing plain. The butterscotch pie is delicious. Luncheons 
are 5 cents. There are a few specialties at dinner. Dela- 
ware 2024. 

RICKETTS 1004 North Clark Street 

Although a standard American white-tiled lunch 
room and restaurant, Ricketts has always been a favo- 
rite eating place of many of the bohemians of Tower 
Town. Perhaps this may be due to the fact that it is 
open all night — and you know how bohemians like to 
sit around over their coffee and cigarettes and talk at 
all hours of the night. The food is good and the prices 
are standard. Lincoln 4824. 

DILL PICKLE CLUB 1 8 Tooker Place 

Are there people living here who haven't heard of the 
Dill Pickle Club? What Mecca is to a Mohammedan 
the Dill Pickle Club is to the bohemians of Chicago — 
and to those who merely come to see the bohemians. It 
is a center of night life activities in Tower Town and is 
the most often visited and most often denounced of near 
north side bohemian haunts. The walls are adorned with 
garish paintings, the dance room is dark and dusty and 
dimly-lit, the little theatre is awfully little, the garden 
is popular on summer nights, and the cofiFee shop serves 

188 



coflfee and a few light foods that are tolerable. Jack 
Jones, the bushy-haired, who founded the Dill Pickle, 
and his mild-mannered sister prepare goodly assort- 
ment of sandwiches for the Wednesday night literary 
crowd, the Saturday night dancing and drgyjia crowd, 
and the Sunday night lecture crowd. DorTt miss the 
Dill Pickle. It is not a club but a free-for-all place. 
Delaware 0669. 

SUNRISE SEA FOOD GROTTO 901 Rush Street 
Where the near north side eats its sea foods. All 
kinds of finny edibles during their respective seasons. 
One reason this place is so popular is that it is open all 
night. You never know at what hour of the night 
you are likely to feel in a mood for oysters or lobsters 
and such. Delaware 0470. 

BOB'S COFFEE SHOP 905 Rush Street 

A Godsend to those Tower Towners who are more 
lean of purse than others — and there are plenty of the 
former. Here you will see poor poets and painters, of 
both genders, eating Bob's 3 5 cent luncheons and 50 cent 
dinners. The food is plain and home cooked and just 
the thing to keep soul and body together until such time 
as your ship comes in. 

LA RUE'S DINING ROOM 900 Rush Street 

The opposite of Bob's Coffee Shop. Being the main 
dining room of the Maryland Hotel, La Rue's is dignified 
and rather elegantly furnished with oak panelled walls 
and gay lighting fixtures and the like. Steaks and chops 

189 



are popular here, as well as the pastries. Open for break- 
fast, luncheon, and dinner. Superior 4568. 

SHIP'S CAFE 913 Rush Street 

Probably one of the craziest — and therefore popular 
— eating establishments in Chicago. You may carve 
your initials on the wooden table top if you like. Glossy 
photographs of movie stars decorate the walls. Triangu- 
lar flags drip from all parts of the ceiling like icicles. 
Real candles sputter on the tables. Portholes adorn the 
walls. At the rear is the Pirate's Den — small, dim, and 
full of painted skulls and cross-bones. Donald Austin, 
the entertaining proprietor, says he knows what the 
public wants and he gives it to them. The Ship's Cafe 
has recently become popular among the younger element 
of fresh-water sailors — ^the lads who man yachts along 
the waterfront. Aside from the novelty atmosphere of- 
fered here, Donald serves good sirloin steaks, lake trout, 
and whitefish. His prices are standard and his place is 
open for luncheon and dinner. Delaware 0683. 

CASA DE ALEX 58 East Delaware Place 

The atmosphere and food of old Madrid — and the 
dance music of these United States. Don Alexander, 
the proprietor, a big dark Spaniard, knows lots of people 
in town, having been manager of the extinct Samovar 
Cafe in South Michigan Avenue. The standard Ameri- 
can dishes are served here, prepared in appetizing style. 
You can also order a special Spanish meal, cooked by a 
real Spanish cook. The walls are decorated with original 
oil paintings by Alexander's wife, an artist of no small 
talent. Here, at dinner, you are likely to see one or two 

190 



celebs almost any evening — Edward Gorey, political edi- 
tor of the American; Thomas Ross, the actor; Aline 
Stanley, the actress; Jess Krueger, the newspaperman and 
American Legion official; Gene Morgan, the columnist; 
and Bob Andrews, the novelist. They are all friends of 
hearty Don Alexander. The Casa de Alex is a favorite 
with out-of-towners; we don't know how the word gets 
around. Dancing in the evening. No rowdy stuflF al- 
lowed. Small, intimate. Afternoon teas attract many 
women, but there are no gigolos. Superior 9697. 

GONDOLA INN 837 North State Street 

French and Italian cooking. One flight up. Open for 
luncheon and dinner. Prices within the means of near 
north siders who live in rooming houses. The spaghetti 
is good. 

OLD VENICE CAFE 755 North Dear horn Street 
Another Italian place, in the basement of the historic 
Rice Hotel. Here for three or four years, the Old 
Venice has maintained its prestige by reason of the ex- 
cellence of its cooking and the atmosphere of convi- 
viality. It is open until late at night and you may 
dance to the music of a radio. Delaware 008 L 

BLACKTHORN TAVERN 

51 East Chicago Avenue 
An old English tavern in the basement of Younker's 
retail and wholesale grocery store, "west of the water 
tower." Rough walls, hewn oak beams, leaded glass 
windows, benches around the walls, Windsor chairs, and 
rough-topped oak tables. Pieces of old china, brass, and 

191 



copper, as well as sporting prints and trophies of the 
hunt, adorn the walls. Open for luncheon and dinner 
each day, and also for Sunday dinner. There are 50 
and 65 cent luncheons, and $1.00 and $1.25 dinners, 
in the Tavern. Steaks and chicken dinners are a spe- 
cialty. The foods served here are a credit to the estab- 
lishment. Alice G. Crane, president and manager of 
Younker's, is to be complimented for the service and 
for her skill in picking out alert and polite waitresses, 
who, by the way, are trim enough in their tight bodices 
and full skirts. Whitehall 5300. 

ROUND TABLE INN 57 East Chicago Avenue 

Another Godsend to the poor artists and writers of 
the quarter. Located in the basement of the Vogel & 
Company grocery store. You walk through the store, 
pass behind the counter, and enter a door leading to the 
basement. No fancy decorations, but all is clean and 
fresh and intimate. There are a number of large round 
tables under the shaded lamps. But the thing that 
crowds the Round Table Inn each evening is the well- 
cooked table d'hote dinner for 50 cents. Which, let us 
repeat, is a Godsend to many Tower Towners. Superior 
3886. 

SOUTHERN TEA SHOP 745 Rush Street 

First of the chain of tea shops founded by Miss Annie 
Sara Bock. Luncheons 50 cents and dinners 75 cents. 
Southern atmosphere, intelligent colored waitresses, and 
a few Southern dishes. The food in general is very 
good. Many of the newspapermen, artists, and musi- 

192 



cians who live in the studios over the tea shop dine here. 
Delaware 0328. 

AMBER PIE 118 East Superior Street 

One of the first of the tea shops on the near north 
side. The little old frame house it occupies is a familiar 
sight to strollers along Upper Michigan Avenue. The 
food is carefully prepared, wholesome, and varied. The 
Misses Helm, who established this place over ten years 
ago, are known all over town for their delicious amber 
pie, a specialty of the house. There are always interest- 
ing people here at dinner. Table d'hote luncheons are 
60 cents and similar dinners are $1.00. Also a la carte. 
Plenty of room, both upstairs and downstairs. Dela- 
ware 3719. 

CASA LAGO 213 East Superior Street 

Occupying an old town residence east of the Avenue. 
Italian foods and hearty Italian hospitality at the hands 
of John Luccaci, well-known restaurateur of the near 
north side and former proprietor of the Old Venice Cafe 
on Dearborn Street. Open late and prices easy on your 
budget. Lots of newspaper people and about-towners 
at the tables during dinner. 

CHEZ DORE 212 East Erie Street 

This French restaurant gets most of its patrons from 
the studios, office buildings, and business establishments 
east of the Avenue. Like so many of the restaurants on 
the near north side, Chez Dore is also in an old town 
house. Luncheon and dinner ($1.50) are served and 

193 



the foods, cooked by an expert French chef, are varied 
and savory. 

ERIE INN 153 East Erie Street 

Occupying the former location of the Vassar House 
and conducted by the former manager of said Vassar 
House. A quiet, refined place for luncheon, tea, or 
dinner. You will not be disappointed in the food. Dela- 
ware 2334. 

HUNGARIAN RESTAURANT 

63 7 North Michigan Avenue 
Hungarian goulash, chicken paprika, rolled cabbage, 
sausages, and other dishes that people eat in Budapest 
await your palate here. It is not a fancy place; just a 
collection of chairs and tables and a few pictures on the 
walls. But the dishes are good and substantial and the 
prices not the least bit high. 

HOLLAND TEA ROOM 157 East Ontario Street 
We don't know why this place is called the Holland 
Tea Room, since no Dutch dishes are served here. The 
menu is a regular American tea room menu. Although 
disappointed in not finding any Dutch dishes, we were 
not disappointed in the quality of the cooking. Open 
for luncheon and dinner. This place has a good-sized 
clientele and is one of the better places east of the 
Avenue. Delaware 3810. 

THE LITTLE GARDEN 160 East Ontario Street 

Another tea room, rather quaint and interesting. 

194 



Occupying a little house at the rear of a garden. New 
England atmosphere and food and such. Open for 
luncheon, tea, and dinner. Restful and away from the 
noises of the street. 

EASTGATE GRILL 1 62 East Ontario Street 

Not only do residents of the Eastgate Hotel eat here, 
but many others from the surrounding neighborhood 
partake of the commendable Eastgate board. Open for 
breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and after-the-theatre. The 
steaks and chops and sandwiches seem to make the big- 
gest hit. Superior 3 580. 

COLONIAL TEA SHOP 619 Rush Street 

Luncheon 50 cents and dinner 7S cents, and a steady 
clientele. Another tea room occupying an old residence. 
This one is interesting, with its many rooms and ornate 
wooden stairways. Delaware 0956. 

G T RESTAURANT 100 East Ohio Street 

This place took over the Triangle Restaurant idea of 
poetic menus and carried it much further. The dishes 
are described in the most glowing terms and you are 
bound to get hungry reading them. They have one 
specialty, unique in Chicago. Steaks are cooked in trian- 
gular tin pans, and are served in them with the natural 
juice. Many a hand is burned from touching these pans, 
but the steaks are thick, tender, and delicious. And you 
will enjoy the amusing drawings of chefs and cooks and 
bakers painted in modernistic style on the walls. Open 
until late. Delaware 1510. 

195 



VIRGINIA DINING ROOM 

KusJd and Ohio Streets 
Old-fashioned atmosphere and old-fashioned food. 
Being old fashioned, the food is fresh, wholesome, and 
skillfully prepared. This is the main dining room of 
that old landmark of the near north side, the Virginia 
Hotel, built shortly before the World's Fair of 1893. 
A unique feature of the room is the huge, beautifully- 
carved wooden Norman church altar, made in 1546 and 
exhibited at the World's Fair. Cyrus Hall McCormick 
is said to have owned it but, not finding room for it in 
his home, he turned it over to the Virginia Hotel. Carved 
with hundreds of little human figures, this altar is 
eminently worth seeing. And the food here is worth 
eating. Superior 1690. 

FRASCATI'S 619 Nmth Wabash Avenue 

An old-timer in Tower Town, as restaurants go. Has 
a wide reputation for first-rate Italian and French cook- 
ing. This one too occupies an old town house, across 
the street from the big Medinah Temple. Not a few 
celebrities are seen here in the evening. Mentioned in 
John Gunther's novel, "The Red Pavilion." Whether 
such mention gives it added prestige, we don't know, 
but the spaghetti, ravioli, and filet mignon here are un- 
forgettable. Open for luncheon and dinner. Delaware 
0714. 

VICTOR HOUSE 9 East Grand Avenue 

Italian restaurants are as thick on the near north side 
as cats in Siam. Here is another one. The Victor House, 
however, is one of the more important ones, having 

196 



quite a few patrons from among the ranks of local 
politicians and city office holders. And where politicians 
eat you can always conclude that the food is good. 
Luncheon and dinner are served here. Delaware 0712. 

SUBWAY CAFE 507 North Wabash Avenue 

Latest of the basement eating houses in Tower Town. 
It is open late, the atmosphere is informal, and there 
is always someone around to play the piano. Steaks and 
chops are featured and good Southern cooking. The 
service is a la carte and the prices are within reason. 

THE PHALANSTERY 915 Rush Street 

Both the soul and the body is fed at the Phalanstery, a 
small restaurant featuring sea foods and lectures on 
life and letters. It is conducted by Jack Ryan, a well- 
known Tower Towner, and his wife, and oflfers sand- 
wiches, coflfee, and a variety of sea foods on its menu. 
The Phalanstery was the name of the edifice in which 
the community of the Fourierites lived in France. Local 
writers and philosophers lecture at Ryan's establishment 
on Saturday evenings. 



197 



AMERICANA 

One of the most interesting features of Ruth Page's 
"American Evening" party, held recently in honor of 
Mary Wigman, the noted German dancer, was the 
buflfet supper of typical American dishes. It was the 
first time we became actively conscious of native 
American viands in relation to the viands of other 
countries and it led us into a study of the subject. Such 
familiar items as baked Virginia ham, Boston baked 
beans, corned beef, red hots, watermelon pickles. South- 
ern hot biscuits, coffee, and ice cream cones were pro- 
vided by the charming Chicago dancer and her husband 
and, needless to say. Miss Wigman ate these dishes with 
keen relish — as did the Chicagoans present. We came 
away with two questions: What are typical American 
dishes and where can they be found to best advantage 
in Chicago? 

We discovered at the outset that the most popular 
American contribution to the world's edibles is the 
turkey. In England, Germany, and France it is re- 
garded as the most savory of the domestic fowls and 
it is found on the menus of all first-class restaurants in 
those countries. Brillat-Savarin, the great French epi- 
cure, in 1825 wrote these words in tribute to the king of 

199 



American table fowls: "The turkey is certainly one of 
the most beautiful presents which the New World has 
made to the Old . . . Only in America has the turkey 
been found in a wild state, and in a state of nature." 

More detailed information on native American dishes, 
however, was found in a book by that modern American 
counterpart of Brillat-Savarin — Julian Street. In his 
"Where Paris Dines," Street describes fifteen restaurants 
in Paris where American foods may be obtained. And 
then he names the conventional American dishes — grape- 
fruit, ham and eggs, wheat cakes with Vermont maple 
syrup, corned-beef hash and poached egg, fried chicken 
with corn fritters a la Maryland, waffles, baked Idaho 
potatoes, corn on the cob, strawberry shortcake. New 
England boiled dinner, venison, bear meat, codfish, 
pompano, watermelon, corned beef and cabbage, Ham- 
burger steak, sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce. 

Our study of this subject came to a head when we 
discovered Alfred Fries, the final authority on American 
viands and his little book, "The Blue Book of American 
Dishes," which is a distinct contribution to Americana. 
As far as we know, it is the only book of its kind. Here, 
Chef Fries tells you how to prepare dishes which origi- 
nated in America, or European dishes which were altered 
by the American style of preparation. All of the dishes 
named by Julian Street are here, and such additional 
ones as chop suey, broiled mallard duck, club sandwich, 
Denver sandwich, hominy, Philadelphia pepper pot. Lake 
Superior whitefish, candied yams, Philadelphia scrapple, 
pumpkin pie, cornbread. New England mince pie, hoe 
cakes, and ice cream. Here is what Chef Fries says 
about the sandwich: 

200 



**The term *sandwich' is supposed to be derived from 
the Earl of Sandwich, who, so tradition relates, was an 
inveterate gambler and who, because he did not want to 
be disturbed while playing, ate his meat placed between 
two slices of bread. From this humble beginning the 
sandwich has grown into universal favor, especially in 
our own United States. It is a quick and easy way to 
satisfy the inner man and quite acceptable as a snack 
between regular meals. It would be easy to write a 
whole volume on sandwiches alone, so great is their 
variety." 

An interesting sidelight on our researches was the en- 
thusiasm shown in typical native dishes by such highly 
indigenous American writers in Chicago as Carl Sand- 
burg, Sherwood Anderson, John T. Frederick, and 
Howard Vincent O'Brien. We found out that they 
often eat in the one-arm lunch rooms, cafeterias, and 
sandwich shops of the Loop, finding in them foods as 
wholesome and palatable as the French, German, and 
other Continental dishes featured on the menus of the 
first-class restaurants. 

Where, in Chicago, does one find these dishes to best 
advantage? Exactly in the center of the Loop. In our 
estimation, Clark Street, in the vicinity of Madison, pro- 
vides the greatest array of typical American quick- 
lunch restaurants. This section of Clark Street is some- 
times called "Toothpick Row" because of the many 
lunchers standing along the curb in front of the restau- 
rants at high noon on a summer's day, busily and un- 
abashedly manipulating toothpicks. The restaurants 
here are mostly of the white-tiled counter variety — 
crowded, loud with the clatter of crockery and the 

201 



shouting of orders, and blatant with advertising matter. 
But they are typically American and serve the standard 
American dishes for the great mass of the people. 

Here, then, in the following named restaurants along 
"Toothpick Row," you will find the dishes that Chef 
Fries lists in his book — the dishes which the great middle 
class eat so avidly at the noon lunch hour. Representa- 
tives of the principal "chain" restaurants in town are 
here, as well as independent ones, and all are so close 
together as to make this section of Clark Street an Ap- 
pian Way for the luncheon crowds. 

HOTEL PLANTER'S COFFEE SHOP 

19 North Clark Street 
A small, hole-in-the-wall sort of place, on the ground 
floor of the Planter's Hotel, one of the old hostelries of 
the Loop. Good sandwiches, coflfee and dessert, and 
quick service. Patronized mostly by sportsmen, race 
horse fans, and residents of the hotel. 

RAKLIO'S 3 North Clark Street 

Both counter and table service — with men seeming to 
favor the counters and stenographers and girl clerks 
preferring the tables. Good table d'hote and a la carte 
luncheons, at average prices, and oflFering all the regular 
American edibles. The decor is in the bleak, white- 
tiled tradition, but everything is neat and clean and the 
waitresses are alert. One of the Raklio "chain" of 
restaurants. 

MITCHELL'S IS South Clark Street 

Another eating place, a la Americain. Mitchell's, be- 
sides its conventional table d'hote and a la carte menu, 

202 



oflfers a small steak luncheon for 3 5 cents. Of good 
quality and done to the proper turn, these steaks have 
made the fame of the house. Everyday at noon Mitchell's 
is packed — and ninety per cent of the customers order 
the small steak. 

W-R SANDWICH SHOP 20 South Clark Street 

That great American viand, the hot dog, is the main 
attraction here. A long, very narrow room, this place 
is a madhouse at noon; men and boys actually wait in 
line for their chance to partake of the tasty wienies 
that sizzle in the window. A hot dog sandwich, made 
with a fresh roll; a cup of coffee; and a piece of pie 
(in summer pie a la mode) make up most of the lunch- 
eons here. Many of the patrons order two hot dog 
sandwiches. Another specialty of the house is Ham- 
burger steak. Potato pancakes with apple sauce and 
cheese cake are more items that are popular here. 

PIXLEY AND EHLERS 22 South Clark Street 

Tantalizing cherry pies and pastries of all sorts — observe 
them being prepared before your eyes in the window of 
Pixley and Ehlers. Note the pastry cooks, the flour and 
the bulbous piles of dough and the ovens in the back- 
ground. This is the home of the American pie — juicy, 
flaky, and using all the conventional fruits. They also 
feature an *'Old Fashioned Farm Breakfast Special," 
consisting of wheatcakes (whole wheat or buckwheat, 
as you please) with Mickelberry's sausages, and plenty 
of syrup and a cup of coflfee. The whole comes to 20 
cents. Pork and beans, sandwiches, and ham and eggs 
are also served here. 

203 



ARCADE CAFETERIA 'b2 South Clark Street 

And now we come to the cafeteria style of restaurant, an 
institution as American as the Statue of Liberty. Most 
of the first-class cafeterias in Chicago, such as the 
Ontra and Harmony, are located on Wabash Avenue, 
where they cater to the employees of State Street depart- 
ment stores. Here, at the Arcade, you have a represen- 
tative example of this style of restaurant. It is located 
on the second floor of the Arcade Building. Fresh vege- 
tables are featured here, including the New England 
boiled dinner. 

LEIGHTON CO-OPERATIVE DAIRY 

RESTAURANT 40 South Clark Street 

As its name indicates, the Leighton features dairy dishes. 
A clean attractive place, serving a good 40 cent luncheon, 
which includes other typical American dishes than those 
made of dairy products. Southern hash with poached 
Qg^i for example. This is very good here. 

B-G SANDWICH SHOP 109 South Clark Street 

The United States seems to have gone in for the Earl 
of Sandwich's invention in a big way. Probably no other 
agency is more responsible for this than the B-G Sand- 
wich Shops, which are to be found in all the principal 
cities. Is there anybody who doesn't relish the type of 
sandwiches served in a B-G place — those three-deckers, 
toasted, and made with such wholesome edibles? The 
most popular of these sandwiches is the B-G Special, 
composed of various meats and Mayonnaise dressing. 
Their coffee is also of first-rate quality, prepared as it is 
by special process. And the pies are something which 

204 



make you feel glad that you're eating in a B-G place. 
We highly recommend a B-G Sandwich Shop for a light 
snack on a hot summer's day. 

WALGREEN 'S Anywhere in the Loop 

Newest of the American dishes, which has made a great 
hit, is the inner-toasted sandwich, served only in Wal- 
green drug stores. It is a good-sized bun with its in- 
sides toasted and filled with various meats or other foods 
— beef saute, chicken salad, frankfurter, melted Ameri- 
can cheese, or tuna fish salad. A deviled egg and a cup 
of coffee or tea go with it and the whole costs 25 cents. 
Everybody eats them at noon in Walgreen's. 

E. W. RIECH'S RESTAURANT 

jf i 8 South Clark Street 
In the jargon of the man in the street, this counter 
lunch room is a "beanery." The only foods served are 
vegetable or navy bean soup, Boston baked beans (with 
or without pork), coffee and pies. An epicure would 
probably turn up his nose at a place like this, but just 
the same it is always crowded and sometimes you have 
to wait in line. And the people who come here to eat 
are not truck drivers or lowly laborers, either, for we 
have seen many prominent lawyers and city oflScials and 
judges and newspapermen eating in Riech's beaneries. 
Whenever we want good vegetable soup and Boston 
baked beans we always go to Riech's. 



205 



AMONG THE LITERATI 

There are as many literary gangs in Chicago as there 
are underworld gangs. Saturday is the big day in the 
week for these literary gangsters; they foregather at 
"round tables" in numerous restaurants, clubs, hotel 
dining rooms, tea shops, alley studios, and basement 
coffee shops and talk about everything but literature. 

The Schlogl gang, which we told you about on page 
26 is the most famous of them all. Here, most of the 
significant Chicago authors eat or have eaten, and here 
it is that practically all visiting literary notables from 
the world at large are invited to lunch. 

There are numerous writing groups, however, which 
do not meet in public restaurants, but organize into 
clubs and provide their own quarters. Among these are 
the Tavern, with such well-known literary members as 
Charles Collins, Ashton Stevens, Wallace Rice, Henry 
Kitchell Webster, and Hobart C. Chatfield-Taylor; the 
Cliff Dwellers, with the benevolent figure of Hamlin 
Garland hovering over it; the Midland authors, occupy- 
ing a private dining room provided by Ernest Byfield 
and Harlan Ware, officials of the Hotel Sherman and 
writers themselves; and the Press Club, where the vete- 
ran novelist, Opie Read, and his cronie, Al Dunlap, an 

207 



editor, as well as a host of other typewriter pounders, 
hold forth. 

Newspapermen of today may be the authors of to- 
morrow. So we have included in the following list of 
literary eating places a few of the restaurants where the 
boys from Newspaper Row do their eating and talking. 

THE DUTCHROOM 

Hotel Bismarck, Randolph and Wells Streets 
One of the liveliest literary gangs in town meets here 
each Saturday at noon. Composed of writers, poets, 
newspapermen, advertising men, professors, lawyers, 
bibliophiles, and conversationalists. No women allowed. 
The gang occupies a "round table" in the farthest 
corner of the room; everything is informal and sponta- 
neous; the wits of the table cross verbal swords; the 
laughter is explosive; and everybody has a good time. 

No better room could be found for conviviality than 
the Dutchroom of the Bismarck Hotel, located at the 
west end of the Rialto. It is a low, beamed dining room 
with a fireplace, having the atmosphere of an old Ger- 
man tavern and the foods served here are the same as 
those served in the main dining room of the Bismarck. 

Here, then, come the literati — Kurt M. Stein, the 
popular German- American dialect poet; Richard "Riq" 
Atwater, columnist of The Cbicagoan; Dr. Walter Blair, 
of the English department at the University of Chicago; 
Fred Lowenthal, the attorney, bibliophile, and wit; Dr. 
David Boder, the Lewis Institute psychologist; Francis 
Coughlin, the magazine writer and epicure; Vincent 
Starrett, the essayist and novelist; Joe Ator, of the 
Chicago American; Walter Auburn, who writes under 

208 



the name of **Gimmick" in various columns; Finney 
Briggs, the continuity writer; FrankUn Meine, the book 
auctioneer and authority on American humor; Phillip 
Morris, the conversationalist; V. L. Sherman, of the 
Lewis Institute; and Douglas MacMurtrie, who made 
The Golden Book. 

In other words, the Dutchroom is a sort of Algonquin 
of Chicago. Aside from this, however, you will like 
the food and atmosphere here and the prices are standard. 

MAURICE'S 175 West Madison Street 

Ranks with the best restaurants in town for good food. 
The pastries and coffee are on a par with those of Hen- 
rici's. Because of its nearness to the Market Street 
"Newspaper Row", Maurice's has always been a news- 
paper restaurant and all of "the boys" know C. H. 
Penikoff , the genial proprietor. Maurice's stands on the 
site of the famed Vogelsang's restaurant, where George 
Ade, Finley Peter Dunne, Eugene Field, Ring Lardner, 
John T. McCutcheon, Opie Read, and other news 
writers of a generation ago dined. Here, at the present 
time, you'll find the town's columnists — John Keys, 
Warren Brown, Ralph Cannon, and Carol Willis Hyatt; 
the sports writers, Paul Hirtenstein, Anne Armstrong, 
S. S. "Salty" Bell, Albon Holden, John C. Hoffman, and 
James Crusinberry; Bertha Fenberg, feature writer for 
the News; Harry Beardsley, author of the forthcoming 
biography of Joe Smith, "Celestial Wives"; Tom Bashaw, 
Dan Fogle, Clem Lane, reporters all; Hume T. Whitacre, 
who edits the elaborate rotogravure section of the News; 
Jim Braden, the automobile editor; Don Russell, the 

209 



book critic; Eugene Stinson, the music critic; and Wil- 
liam S. Hedges and Royal S. Munger, radio and financial 
editors respectively. And there are lots and lots of 
others from "Newspaper Row*'. Maurice's is open all 
night and Sundays and serves a 65 cent table d'hote 
luncheon and a $1.00 dinner. The establishment has 
recently been enlarged so that now there is plenty of 
room. 

NEW TIVOLI 183 West Madison Street 

In some respects, one of the most interesting restaurants 
in Chicago. William Piccolo, the courteous and debonair 
proprietor, will sing operatic numbers at your table; 
the waiters speak two or three languages; the cuisine is 
Italian and French; intimate booths are arranged around 
the walls; the food is excellent and reasonable; and news- 
paper celebrities and writers are always plentiful among 
the gay and cosmopolitan diners and lunchers. 

Piccolo's is a favorite eating place of lone Quimby, 
of the Chicago Evening Post, author of "Murder for 
Love"; Paul Gilbert, the veteran reporter and man- 
about-town; John Ashenhurst, of the American; 
Howard Mayer, also of the American; Loren Carroll, 
author of "Wild Onion"; Seymour Berkson, of the 
Examiner; Vaughan Schoemaker, the cartoonist; A. L. 
Mahoney, the pohce reporter; Al Rose and Julius Rosen- 
thal, both of the Times; and a host of other newspaper 
people. State Senator Harry Starr, Judge Francis 
Borelli, and Tito Schipa, the opera singer, also dine here 
frequently. 

The New Tivoli is situated "one flight up" and a few 

210 



doors west of Maurice's. There are 50 and 65 cent 
luncheons and $1.00 and $1.25 dinners. The New 
Tivoli is also popular among after-theatre crowds. 

CAFE ROYALE 3 854 West Roosevelt Road 

Here is Bohemia in the true sense of the word. The 
Cafe Royale is an intellectual and artistic rendezvous 
of the west side Jewish quarter. Full of poets, musicians, 
actors, artists, radicals, intellectuals, and all night talkers. 
Founded and operated by Israel Blume, a poet, and 
Morris Mason, an actor, as a Chicago counterpart of the 
famed Cafe Royal on the East Side of New York. Sat- 
urday nights, beginning at 10, the Jewish cabaret, a sort 
of neighborhood version of the Russian Chauve Souris, 
is staged in the concert hall at the rear of the place. 
Harry Rosen and his orchestra are in Russian costumes; 
Mme. Maria Masheir sings gypsy ballads; Gregory Vene- 
tzsky and Joe and Edith Levinson entertain; playlets 
are performed; there is dancing after the show; and 
Jewish, Russian, and Roumanian dishes tempt your 
palate. The walls are decorated with rustic murals by 
the artist, De Vries. All is gay, garrulous. Continental, 
colorful and worth much more than the $1.00 you pay 
for it. 

Always, the main dining room out front, unique with 
its modernist panels depicting the various arts, is 
crowded with lively bushy-haired men wearing horn- 
rimmed spe'ctacles and carrying books under their arms; 
black -eyed actresses from the nearby New Yiddish 
Lawndale Theatre; visiting Jewish celebrities from New 
York; and gourmets who have a weakness for substantial 
Jewish dishes fragrant with garlic. The popular entrees 

211 



here are rib steak, broiled in the Roumanian style, and 
gratchitze, or sweetbreads. The foods in general are 
wholesome and savory and not so expensive. 

Here, then, dine most of the local Jewish celebrities 
in the arts and allied interests — Emil Armin, the painter; 
S. P. Rudens, the essayist; L. M. Stein, the publisher and 
patron of the arts; Todros Geller, the wood-block artist; 
Joseph Kriloff, the singer; Dr. M. S. Malamed and J. 
Siegel, the well-known newspaper editors; J. Z. Jacob- 
son, author of ''Thirty-Five Saints and Emil Armin"; 
I. Iver Rose, the painter and potato pancake maker; and 
a great many others of lesser note. Meyer Zolotareff, 
the newspaperman, edits his Yiddish literary monthly, 
Chicago, from a table in the corner. Here also have 
come such famous figures in the Jewish world as Abra- 
ham Raisen, the poet; Prof. Enrico Glickenstien, the 
Italian- Jewish sculptor; Molly Picon, the actress; Maurice 
Schwartz, theatrical director; Boris Thomashefsky, the 
actor; Alexander Kipnis, the opera singer and Morris 
Topchevsky, the painter. Politicians also come here 
— Alderman Jacob Arvey, Ward Committeeman Moe 
Rosenberg, and their followers. We could go on describ- 
ing this interesting place but the above information ought 
to be enough to arouse your curiosity. Don't miss it. 
Saturday nights are the best. 

RUTZ'S COFFEE SHOP 28 South Wells Street 

Another newspaper hangout. Located at the end of a 
corridor in an old building. Good German cooking and 
the roast beef is hard to beat. You may sit at a table 
and be served by Mary Michalska, the best waitress on 

212 



Wells Street, or you may stand at the long coffee bar 
and converse with Emil Rutz, the proprietor. Emil 
used to be manager of Vogelsang's restaurant in the old 
days and he also conducted the Mission Bar in West 
Madison Street. Quite a crowd from the newspaper 
offices meets here for luncheon daily — Oscar "Yank" 
Taylor, the radio announcer and ex-newspaperman; 
Dorothy Fay, the writer; Justin Forrest, of the Amer- 
ican; Meyer Levin, author of several novels; Logan 
**Steve" Trumbull, the playwright and soldier of for- 
tune; Hal Totten, the popular baseball announcer over 
Station WMAQ; Frank Malloy, of the Times; Irma Selz, 
the caricature artist; Joe Duggan, of the Post; George 
Kercher, the radio editor; Paul Gilbert, part author of 
"Chicago and its Makers*'; Larry Selz, the publicity 
agent; Elizabeth Hobart, of the Post; Fred Seaburg and 
Ray O'Neil, two globe-trotters and Victor Knox, the 
columnist. 

GARDEN OF ITALY 10 South Clark Street 

This upstairs Italian eating place, located on "Toothpick 
Row", is patronized quite frequently by a few of the 
local literary notables — Alfred MacArthur, the book 
collector and wit (brother of Charles MacArthur, the 
playwright) ; Lew Sarett, the poet; Henry Justin Smith, 
the novelist; Hume T. Whitacre, of the Daily News; 
Lloyd Lewis, the dramatic critic; Colonel Jacques Lisso- 
voy, formerly of the Russian Army; and Theodore Seel- 
man, the writer and explorer. The Italian food is com- 
mendable here and the atmosphere is quiet and con- 
ducive to conversation. 

213 



ANNA LYON TEA SHOP 1449 East 57th Street 
Always an eating place for students at the nearby Uni- 
versity of Chicago, the Anna Lyon Tea Shop has in 
recent months been the rendezvous of a south side Hter- 
ary crowd centering around John T. Frederick, editor of 
The Midland magazine and author of several novels, and 
Mrs. Frederick. They foregather at a "round table" in 
the rear of the establishment and, over many cups of 
coflFee, discuss the present state of literature and other 
allied topics — all of which 'is quite in the Parisian tradi- 
tion of cafe life. And not only writers, but artists and 
others interested in the seven arts are at the table. Of 
course, they do not all come together at any one time 
but there is always a crowd present and the discussions 
invariably are animated. 

The poets seem to predominate — Mark Turbyfill 
author of "The Living Frieze"; George Dillon, who 
wrote "Boy in the Wind"; Jun Fujita, the Japanese poet 
who penned "Tanka"; and Gladys Campbell and Elder 
Olson, who contribute to Harriet Monroe's Poetry maga- 
zine. Other writers and intellectuals include J. Z. 
Jacobson, R. L. Sergei, Marion Neville, James T. Farrell, 
John Sullivan, Frank Malloy, H. D. Roberts, Ruth 
Jameson, Llewellyn Jones, Mary Hunter and Susan Wil- 
bur. Among the artists are Charles Biesel, George Josi- 
movich, Frances Strain, Fred Biesel, Emil Armin, and 
Vladimir Janowicz. A decorative feature of the res- 
taurant is the oil paintings which adorn the walls, done 
by CHflford Lyon, son of the proprietoress. Dinners at 
the Anna Lyon Tea Shop are 50, 65 and 75 cents and the 
food is fresh and wholesome. 

214 



THE CORONA CAFt 531 Rush Street 

The Corona, located a block west of Tribune Tower, is 
mostly an eating place of the men who work on the 
Chicago Tribune. There is both counter and table serv- 
ice and the sandwiches are appetizing and quickly pre- 
pared for men who have to make "deadlines". James 
O'Donnell Bennett, feature writer, and author of "Much 
Loved Books", and such other feature writers of the 
Tribune as Phil Kinsley, James Doherty, John Boettiger, 
Arthur M. Evans, Oscar Hewitt, Edward Burns, Harvey 
T. Woodrufif, and Bob Becker, are seen almost daily in 
the Corona. 

HEINLY'S GRILL W) North Clark Street 

The County Building and City Hall reporters usually 
breakfast in this sandwich shop, across the street from 
their "beat" headquarters. "Pop" Heinly's waffles and 
griddle cakes appear to make a big hit with the "boys"; 
and so do his toasted sandwiches and pastries. Such 
well-known newspapermen as Willis O'Rourke, of the 
American; Ray Quisno, of the Examiner; and Willard 
Edwards, of the Tribune y come here; and the City News 
Bureau boys make this their hangout. 

QUINN'S GRILL 327 West Madison Street 

A new sandwich shop within a stone's throw of the 
Market Street Newspaper Row. Three-decker toasted 
sandwiches, named after the various newspapers, are 
featured; the place is crowded at noon with men from 
the Evening American, the Examiner, and the Tifnes; 
sports followers also come here from Kid Howard's Gym- 
nasium upstairs; and the food is good and plentiful. 

215 



BARON'S 71 8 West Roosevelt Road 

Another gathering place of writers and artists in the 
west side Jewish quarter. Baron's has been catering to 
leading Jewish people for over ten years and they have 
a wide reputation for exceptionally appetizing food. 
Harry Rosen, Meyer Zolotsreff , Dr. M. S. Malamed, and 
other local Yiddish writers foregather here, and there 
have been such visitors as Al Jolson, Sophie Tucker, 
George Jessel, Eddie Cantor, Paul Ash, Judge Samuel 
Heller, Cantor Joseph Rosenblatt and Cantor Pierre 
Pinchik, as well as actors from numerous Jewish theatres. 
The two proprietors of Baron's, Samuel Abel and Louis 
H. Steinberg, besides being expert restaurateurs, are also 
known for their interest in the various arts. The walls 
here are hung with paintings of the well-known artist, 
Emil Armin. All the popular Jewish dishes are on the 
menu and the prices are reasonable. The feast of the 
Passover is celebrated here annually and is attended by 
Jewish celebrities from all over the city. 

STUDIO TEA SHOP 1369 East 57th Street 

Caters to University of Chicago students, but has a 
literary tradition because it is the frequent meeting place 
of the Poetry Club of the university, many members of 
which are promising poets. Conducted by Jane E. Cald- 
well, who is keenly interested in the seven arts. No hot 
dishes are served here, but the sandwiches and salads 
are worth coming a long distance for. The room is 
tastefully decorated and the atmosphere is quiet and 
homey. Open for luncheon and dinner. 



216 



BETWEEN TRAINS 

Restaurants as elegant as the dining rooms of some of the 
Michigan Avenue hotels are found in the numerous rail- 
road stations of the downtown district. This is as it 
should be, for Chicago is the railroad center of the 
nation; all roads lead to it; it is the crossroads of the 
continent. Here, then, that phase of the catering field 
devoted to the feeding of the travelHng public has been 
developed to its highest possibilities. 

When you are passing through Chicago and your time 
is limited between trains, or when you have just arrived 
in town and want a bite to eat before starting for your 
hotel, these terminal restaurants stand ready at all hours 
of the day and night to serve your culinary wants. The 
interesting factor about them is that they serve foods 
the equal of those found in the best restaurants in the 
Loop. In fact, several of these railroad eating establish- 
ments are the rendezvous of well-known persons in 
Chicago life, who come to them for certain dishes that 
are prepared with a skill that cannot be duplicated any- 
where else. 

The following railroad station restaurants are the 
sort we have in mind. Their prices are the same as in 
other eating places in the city, and the service in them 
is both alert and courteous. 

217 



EITEL'S 

Northwestern Station, Caital and Madison Streets 
You could not want a better place in which to eat be- 
tween trains than the series of dining rooms conducted 
by Robert and Max Eitel, members of the famous Chi- 
cago family of caterers and restaurateurs, in the terminal 
of the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad. The main 
dining room, a dignified elegant place on the second 
floor, even ranks as one of the important restaurants of 
the town, for many noted people lunch here from office 
buildings at the west end of the downtown district. It 
is one of the favorite eating places of Edward Price Bell, 
dean of foreign correspondents of the Chicago Daily 
News and the late Walter Strong, publisher of the same 
paper always ate here (the Daily News is located across 
the street from the Northwestern Station) ; Fred Sar- 
gent, president of the Northwestern Railroad; Herman 
Black, publisher of the American; and Bill Hay, the 
popular radio announcer of Station WMAQ. Chris, the 
head waiter, knows them all and they all know him. No 
better roast beef can be found anywhere in town than 
that served here. An expert chef from Munich presides 
over the kitchens and it is plain that he knows his busi- 
ness. Meals a la carte and table d'hote. Luncheon 75 
cents; dinner $1.00 and $1.50. Afternoon tea, while 
waiting for your train, is pleasant on the Terrace. EitePs 
lunch room, where the same foods are served, is on the 
first floor of the station and consists of both counter and 
table service. Many North Shore commuters purchase 
their bakery goods and pastries at the Eitel Bakery, 
which adjoins the main floor lunch room. Robert and 

218 



Max Eitel are brothers of the Eitels who conduct the 
well-known Bismarck Hotel in the Loop. 

FRED HARVEY'S 

Union Station, Jackson Boulevard and Canal Street 
What a contrast is the lofty dignified and luxuriously- 
furnished Harvey dining room in the Union Station here 
to the little counter lunch rooms of the Fred Harvey 
system along the Santa Fe Railroad in the small tank 
towns of the West. Everything is done on a grand scale, 
from the antique clock with mirror and stand in the 
foyer (discovered by Miss Mary E. J. Colter, decorator 
of the Fred Harvey restaurants), to the high wainscot- 
ing of American walnut and the comfortable Windsor 
chairs. You get the illusion of dining in the formal 
dining room of some Michigan Avenue hotel or club. 
This is probably one of the most elegant railroad ter- 
minal dining rooms in the country. And all of the dishes 
of a first-class hotel are on the menu here, prepared by 
a staff of chefs and bakers the equal of any in Chicago. 
Steaks, chops, sea foods, and bakery products are fea- 
tured. The prices are standard and the waiters are 
courteous and efficient. 

In popularity, however, the Harvey lunch room, ad- 
joining the main dining room, takes first prize. It is a 
big rangy dining hall, with both table and counter 
service, and also a mezzanine for afternoon tea. The 
lunch room gets a heavy patronage because the service 
is quick and because it is open all night. At noon the 
counters and tables are crowded with workers from 
office buildings in the neighborhood surrounding the 
Union Station. Luncheons are 50 and 65 cents and 

219 



dinners are $1.00 and $1.25. The Coffee Shop, located 
at the east end of the lofty concourse, is a small intimate 
room, uniquely decorated in mosaic tile work, and is 
patronized mostly by suburban passengers for breakfast 
and afternoon tea. 

MARTIN RESTAURANT 

La Salle Street Station, Van Buren and La Salle Streets 
Bankers, insurance men, railroad executives, brokers, 
manufacturing tailors, as well as the travelling public 
and an occasional celebrity, lunch or dine in the Martin 
restaurant, on the first floor of the La Salle Street Sta- 
tion. This is one of the chain of Martin railway depot 
restaurants operated in eastern cities. If names mean 
anything to you we may offer those of Charlie Chaplin, 
Mary Pickford and the late William Howard Taft, as 
among the notables who have eaten here between trains 
or otherwise. Fred Frese, the head waiter, has been here 
for eighteen years and he is as well known at the south 
end of the Loop as **Bathhouse John" Coughlin. The 
food is delicious, the service alert, and the atmosphere 
quiet, if a bit old-fashioned. Plate luncheon 65 cents; 
dinner $1.50. 

POLK STREET STATION RESTAURANT 

Dearborn and Polk Streets 
When we say that this is a Fred Harvey restaurant we 
have told you all there is to know about it. You know 
immediately that the food is of the best quality, whole- 
some, and carefully prepared. Like the station in which 
it is located, this restaurant is old-fashioned and has the 
decorative knick-knacks of the Nineties around its walls. 

220 



It is small and quiet and the service is attuned to re- 
quirements of the travelling public. When Sherwood 
Anderson, the novelist, worked as an advertising man in 
Chicago he frequently used to sit in a corner of this 
dining room and, a cup of coffee beside him, write short 
stories. There is also a Harvey lunch room adjoining 
this dining room. 



221 



UPTOWN AND NORTHWARD 

Six miles north of the Loop Hes Uptown, a sort of 
miniature Loop. Tall terra cotta oflEce buildings, hotels, 
business houses, movie palaces, amusement centers and 
restaurants, as well as orange huts, photomatons, chop 
suey parlors and $L88 women's hat shops, abound in the 
district and give it a sort of gay carnival air. It is quite 
definitely a night life pleasure area and serves the entire 
north side and, more particularly, the rooming house 
and apartment hotel district immediately surrounding it. 
The beaches of Lake Michigan are at its feet; street-cars 
and elevated trains lead to it; and at night it is the 
Great White Way of the north side. 

From among the many restaurants of this lively area, 
we have selected the following as being most notable 
for good foods. Some of them are famous all over the 
city for certain specialties, while others offer a general 
menu worthy of the attention of any gourmet. We 
have also pointed out a few of the outstanding restau- 
rants lying north of uptown. They are found along 
Sheridan Road, which runs through the exclusive resi- 
dential sections of Edgewater and Rogers Park. 

222 



SALLY'S WAFFLE SHOP 4650 Sheridan Road 

The best waffles in town. This shop has been here for 
many years, and people come from all over the city to 
this famed uptown eating establishment — especially for 
late supper or a snack in the wee small hours. Other 
dishes are exceptionally good here, too. Ashton Stevens 
drops into this place frequently during the spring 
months for the delightful asparagus tips served at the 
Sally board. The heroine of John Gunther's novel, "The 
Red Pavilion", ate her waffles and bacon at Sally's. In 
other words, everybody thinks of Sally's when they 
vision waffles. Located in the heart of the uptown dis- 
trict. 

KRISTENSEN 4017 Sheridan Road 

Alfred Kristensen is one of the most interesting res- 
taurateurs in Chicago. He was born in the United 
States, of Danish descent, but served his apprenticeship 
in the culinary art in Germany, France and England. 
In 1 9 1 he received the degree of Bachelor of Arts from 
the University of Chicago. Once he was chief steward 
for the United States Shipping Board. After holding 
various positions with the Astor and Vanderbilt Hotels 
in New York City, and the La Salle and Blackstone 
Hotels and the Canadian Pacific Railway in Chicago, he 
resigned from such work and set up this important up- 
town restaurant. As recently as a few months ago he 
received an honor diploma from the Societe de Cuisine 
de Paris in recognition for laboratory research work in 
connection with foods. So, with such a background, Mr. 
Kristensen ought to be expected to serve good foods — 

223 



and he does. He has no specialties on his menu since 
every item on it is a specialty. Worth trying. 

SKOOGLUND CAFETERIA 1136 Wilson Avenue 
Although a cafeteria, Skooglund's is an uptown culinary 
landmark. The cuisine is both Swedish and American 
and you can get a large assortment of food items — baked 
goods, vegetables, salads, meats, and fish. Here you can 
also eat the delicious Dundee cake and those savory 
little wafer pancakes that the house specializes in. The 
Swedish hors d'oeuvres alone would make a meal. A 
bakery and delicatessen is conducted in connection with 
the cafeteria. 

EDGEWATER BEACH HOTEL 

')349 Sheridan Road 
The Marine Dining Room is the principal dine-and- 
dance center of the uptown area. Here, in a large and 
attractively decorated room, located in a hotel which 
stands right on the shore of Lake Michigan, you may 
dance every night except Sunday night. Special nights 
are featured during the week — Monday is Celebrity 
Night, when theatrical stars are usually present; Friday 
is Fraternity Night, with plenty of frat members at the 
tables, as well as co-eds; and Saturday is Formal Night, 
a time of starched linen and red velvet wraps. Always 
there is plenty of fun, the music is lively, and the walks 
along the terrace between dances are pleasurable and re- 
freshing. The Marine Dining Room serves luncheon, 
afternoon tea, dinner, and late supper. Similar service 
is rendered in the Grill, another dining room of the 
Edgewater Beach. 

224 



ALICE BAUM'S DINING ROOM 

5200 Sheridan Road 
A high-toned and well-known eating parlor, located in a 
high-toned and well-known part of Chicago. The man- 
sions of the wealthy are on all sides and directly across 
the street are the grounds and low building of the 
Saddle and Cycle Club, one of the most fashionable and 
exclusive clubs in Chicago. Alice Baum offers genuine 
home cooking, with plentiful portions, and her season- 
ings are notable. The room is tastefully decorated and 
the atmosphere is restful and dignified. Table d'hote 
luncheons are 65 cents, and similar dinners are $1.00 
and $1.50. 

WAGTAYLE'S WAFFLE SHOP 

1205 Loyola Avemie 
Where Rogers Park, on the far north side, eats its 
waffles during the late hours. And very good waffles, 
too. There are lots of other dishes on the menu, all 
skillfully prepared and highly appetizing. Wagtayle*s 
is open all night and there are always plenty of young 
people present, especially on Saturdays after midnight. 

MURPHY'S RESTAURANT 6546 Sheridan Road 
Where Rogers Park eats its corned beef and cabbage at 
all hours of the day and until midnight. Mrs. Murphy 
serves the most appetizing corned beef and cabbage 
north of the Loop; also she serves other dishes that are 
as notable. Her place is located one flight up and re- 
ceives a heavy "play" from students at the nearby 
Loyola University, a great majority of whom are of 
Irish descent. 

22S 



THE BLACK OAKS 7631 Sheridan Road 

Occupies one of those curious and interesting houses 
built by the great American architect, Frank Lloyd 
Wright. You get the effect of dining in a private home, 
what with many rooms all about, candlesticks holding 
real burning candles, unusual china, and all sorts of 
glassware. All of these objets d'art, of course, are 
carefully and artistically arranged, and dinner at the 
Black Oaks, from the point of view of food, decorations, 
service, and architecture is nothing if not an esthetic 
adventure. Milk-fed broilers, mushrooms under glass, 
and filet mignon are specialties. Luncheon is $1.50, and 
dinner $2.50 and $3.00. You'd better call up first — 
Briargate 2646. 



226 



SHOPPER'S REST 

State Street, as everybody from Des Moines to Kalama- 
zoo knows, is the main shopping artery of Chicago. 
All the big department stores are here, from Marshall 
Field's on the north to the Davis Store on the south, 
and here the women of the city, as well as from cities 
all over the middle west, buy those things which not 
infrequently cause their husbands to frown. 

Naturally, while on these shopping expeditions, the 
ladies grow a bit weary along about 3 or 4 o'clock in 
the afternoon. So, to meet this feeling, the State Street 
department stores have provided quiet and restful tea 
rooms where Mrs. Jones or Miss Smith may sit down 
and have a nice cup of tea and a light snack, the while 
several musicians play Chopin's Nocturne in B Flat. 
Luncheons are also provided in these places, composed 
of good wholesome foods, and in one or two of them you 
may have breakfast. 

The men have not been overlooked, either. These 
stores feature men's grills that are the equal of any of 
the first-class dining places elsewhere in the city. Here- 
with is a list of these department store restaurants, to- 

227 



gather with information as to their cuisine and other 
phases. 

MARSHALL FIELD'S 

State Street, between Randolph and Washington 
Most widely known and elegant of the shopper's tea 
rooms on State Street is the Narcissus Fountain Room, 
on the seventh floor of the world-famed Marshall Field 
& Company department store. In decoration, atmos- 
phere, service, and foods, it is on a par with any dining 
room of a first-class Michigan Avenue or Gold Coast 
hotel. Chamber music is featured here between 3 P.M. 
and 5 P.M., and a special menu replete with sandwiches, 
salads, beverages, and desserts is offered the tired shop- 
per. Half an hour spent in such surroundings, and 
with the stimulation of a light and most carefully pre- 
pared snack, and you are refreshed and ready again for 
another round of shopping. An excellent $L00 table 
d'hote luncheon is also offered here and there is a la carte 
service at all hours. The special afternoon tea luncheon 
is 50 cents. 

Six tea and grill rooms occupy the entire seventh 
floor of this great Chicago mercantile establishment. 
In the Walnut Grill, beautifully decorated in Circassian 
walnut, breakfast is offered, both club and a la carte, 
from 9 A.M. until 11 A.M. Table d'hote luncheons 
are also featured here at $1.25 and $1.50 the plate. 
Here, too, you may find the special afternoon tea lunch- 
eon, as in the Narcissus Fountain Room. There is no 
music in the Walnut Grill. 

The Colonial Tea Room and the Mission Grill are for 
the convenience of the shopper whose time is limited. 

228 



A menu is offered which can be quickly and attractively 
served. Table d'hote luncheons are served in both rooms 
at 75 and 85 cents, and $1.00 the plate. Oldest of the 
tea rooms is the Colonial Room, on the Wabash Avenue 
side, and this is the only room in which smoking is not 
permitted. The atmosphere is conservative and many 
feminine members of the pioneer first families of the 
city foregather here for luncheon or afternoon tea. 
Prices are the same as in the other rooms. The Wedge- 
wood Room, decorated in the Adam period and replete 
with bric-a-brac of the famous potter's design, is re- 
served for private parties or banquets. 

The famed potato flour muffin, originated many years 
ago in the Marshall Field kitchens, may be obtained in 
all of the tea rooms and grills. Nowhere else can you 
get a muffin like this; it is an epicurean thrill of the 
highest order. Another original feature of the Marshall 
Field tea rooms is the child's luncheon — a balanced 
menu for children under twelve, served on gaily deco- 
rated china in the Walnut, Narcissus and Crystal Rooms. 
There are combination plate luncheons (reduced por- 
tions) for 50, 65 and 75 cents. 

For the Men's Grill, you must go across Washington 
Street to the sixth floor of the Marshall Field's Store for 
Men. It is a beautiful and impressive room, with a 
TiflFany fountain at its center. There are many circu- 
lar, leather-upholstered booths, which afford pleasant 
nooks for business luncheon-conferences. Luncheon 
may be had here from 75 cents to $1.50, or a la carte. 
It is usually crowded at noon with prominent business 
executives, physicians, and other professional men from 
surrounding office buildings. 

229 



KRANZ'S 124 North State Street 

Unique in that it is a lone survivor on State Street of 
the World's Fair days of 1893. Interior very flowery, 
old-fashioned, ornate and Victorian. A marble lady, 
with diaphanous material for protection against dust, 
stands at the entrance. No sandwiches, but very good 
coffee cakes, layer cakes, confections, and excellent 
chocolate, cofFee and tea. Ideal for a light repast, serv- 
ice is perfection, Mrs. Kranz is always present, and the 
atmosphere is quiet and genteel. 

STOP AND SHOP 16 West Washington Street 

The Tiffin Restaurant, on the second floor of the most 
famous of Chicago's retail food shops, the Stop and 
Shop, located a few steps west of State Street, serves 
perfectly grand 65 cent table d'hote luncheons. There 
are half a dozen Tiffin Specials on the a la carte menu. 
The table d'hote dinner is $ 1.00. Open from 1 1 A.M. to 
8 P.M. The room is large and attractively done in green 
and the tables are always crowded. 

HILLMAN'S CAFETERIA 

24 West Washington Street 
Many shoppers prefer Hillman*s for their luncheon. It 
is located on the second floor of Hillman's food shop, 
almost as renowned as the Stop and Shop. The victuals 
here are plain and wholesome, you help yourself, there 
is plenty of room, and the place is open from 1 1 A.M. 
to 7:30 P.M. 

STEVENS BUILDING RESTAURANTS 

17 North State Street 
The two large dining rooms on the eighth floor of the 

230 



Chas. A. Stevens mercantile establishment are heavily 
patronized by women during luncheon and afternoon 
tea. The Persian Room, on the State Street side, is the 
more elegant of the two; colorful murals depicting 
scenes from the Arabian Nights adorn the walls and 
the atmosphere is refined and pleasant. The East Room 
is devoted to more popular priced meals. Service is both 
table d'hote and a la carte and the cuisine in both rooms 
is ideal for women shoppers. 

BOSTON STORE DINING ROOM 

State and Madison Streets 
Blue Plate combinations at 75 cents are featured in this 
twelfth floor dining room, attractively decorated in 
restful green. There is also a 65 cent luncheon. The serv- 
ice is a la carte at all hours and here the ladies come at 
mid-afternoon for a cup of coffee and a bit of pastry, 
both of which are commendable. 

MANDEL'S 

Northeast corner , State and Madison Streets 
Afternoon tea is served in the Tudor Room between 
3 P.M. and 5 P.M. This room, done in the manner of 
an old English inn, is quiet and dignified and well suited 
for a light repast. Luncheons are served here at 65 and 
8 5 cents the plate. The same prices prevail in the larger 
Tea Room. The Men's Grill, located on the Wabash 
Avenue side and adorned by interesting murals, serves 
good substantial dishes for the heartier palates of the male 
sex. 

231 



CARSON'S 

Southeast corner y State and Madison Streets 
The North and South Tea Rooms, on the eighth floor, 
are large and there are both table d'hote and a la carte 
luncheons. Music is furnished by the Carson Pirie Scott 
& Company Trio. The foods are admirable and the 
seasonable dishes especially are to be recommended. 
Afternoon tea is served in the South Tea Room, where 
the atmosphere is quiet and restful. The Men's Grill, 
in the new men's store at Monroe Street and Wabash 
Avenue, is modelled on Haddon Hall, a sixteenth-cen- 
tury Tudor structure in England. Here, you may eat 
a special 75 cent and $1.00 table d'hote luncheon. Serv- 
ice is also a la carte. 

THE FAIR Adams and State Streets 

Music is featured in the Spanish Room during luncheon 
and afternoon tea. Done in the manner of a Spanish 
patio, this room is small and intimate and provides an 
ideal opportunity for rest and a light snack. Luncheons 
are served here for 50 and 65 cents the plate. Adjoining 
the Spanish Room is the Cafeteria. 

DAVIS STORE State and Van Buren Streets 

Something interesting here are the cozy booths, large 
enough for six or eight people, provided for the con- 
venience of shoppers from the suburbs surrounding Chi- 
cago. Each booth bears the name of a suburb. For 
example, if you are from Evanston you go to the Evans- 
ton booth and there most likely run into other Evans- 
tonians. Table d'hote luncheons at 50 and 65 cents are 
on the menu, and service is also a la carte. 

232 



SUBURBIA 

Appetizing foods, skillfully prepared and served in quiet 
and elegant surroundings, are found in Suburbia. 
Northward, lying just next door to Chicago, is Evans- 
ton, seat of the far-famed Northwestern University 
and said to be the birthplace of prohibition. Evanston's 
foremost citizen is General Charles Gates Dawes. It is a 
city of wealthy, blue-blooded, American citizens — 
people who have discriminating tastes in matters per- 
taining to the table. Not the least of its interesting 
landmarks is the old mansion in which the first cafeteria 
was started back in 1905 and which is still in operation. 
Today, Evanston has many interesting little tea rooms 
and other eating places worthy of the attention of any 
seeker after good foods. 

North of Evanston lies the North Shore, like a string 
beaded with numerous millionaire villages and private 
estates. And here, between Kenilworth and Wilmette, 
you will find No Man's Land, having no local self- 
government but picturesque with Spanish style theatres, 
clubs, houses and barbecue stands. Here is where the 
North Shore eats its barbecue and chicken sandwiches. 
Proceeding northward along Sheridan Road, you come to 
other eating places until you wind up at the Deerpath 
Inn, done in the English style and the rendezvous of 

233 



many Chicago millionaires who have their summer homes 
in Lake Forest. Following, then, are the outstanding 
eating places of Suburbia. 

WOMAN'S EXCHANGE CAFETERIA 

1 627 Chicago Ave,, Evanston, III, 
Established in 1905 for the benefit of students at North- 
western University, the Woman's Exchange was the first 
cafeteria in existence. One of its early patrons was 
Frances Willard, dean of women at Northwestern and 
founder of the W. C. T. U. The cafeteria continues 
to occupy the same house in which it was founded — 
a large frame mansion, set back on a wide lawn and 
having the appearance of a New England homestead. 
Mr. Robert Davidson, the present owner, possesses a sec- 
tion of the original cafeteria tray rail which figured 
prominently in the news a few years ago as an exhibit 
in a law suit involving patent rights on the rail. It was 
Mr. Davidson's mother who took over the cafeteria two 
years after it was established. Needless to say, the food 
served here is highly appetizing and carefully prepared, 
and the roast beef and home made pies are the best 
to be found on the North Shore. The Woman's Ex- 
change never advertises as it has a steady clientele among 
Evanston and North Shore residents. Open for luncheon 
and dinner and on Sunday from 12 noon to 8 P.M. 

NORTH SHORE HOTEL COFFEE SHOP 

1611 Chicago Ave,, Evanston, III. 
First-class food at reasonable prices for college boys and 
co-eds from Northwestern and others. Located a few 
doors south of the Woman's Exchange, on the first floor 

234 



of the North Shore Hotel. It is a quiet, dignified cafe- 
teria, decorated in the style of an old English inn, with 
beamed ceiling and high-backed Windsor chairs. The 
formal dining room of the North Shore is done in the 
Colonial style. 

VERA MEGOWEN'S TEA ROOM 

501 Davis Street, Evanston, III, 
Wholesome, plain, American cooking from the hands of 
skillful chefs. This place is known as the Early Ameri- 
can Room and is charmingly finished in Colonial style, 
which includes potteries, glassware, and brass and copper 
articles, all of which are for sale. Vera Megowen is a 
well-known Evanston cateress. Her pastries are par- 
ticularly notable. She operates another tea shop, known 
as the French Provincial Room, at 512 Main Street. 
Luncheons, afternoon teas, and dinners are served in 
both places. 

COOLEY'S CUPBOARD 

1511 Chicago Ave., Evanston, III. 
This is one of the three tea rooms conducted in Evanston 
by Raymond Cooley. Known as the Picardy Room, it 
is small and intimate and reminiscent of a French peas- 
ant inn. The cuisine is on a par with the best in Evans- 
ton and some of the wealthiest women of the suburb 
foregather here. Cooley 's original Cupboard is at 1632 
Orrington Avenue; his third establishment, the Rendez- 
vous Moderne, is at 505 Main Street. 

HEWS 616 Church Street, Evanston, III 

Hew's, decorated in the modernist manner and featur- 

235 



ing tables and booths, gets a heavy patronage at the 
noon hour from the business men of Evanston. Their 
Special Business Men's Luncheon contains substantial 
edibles, and plentiful portions. Hew's derives its name 
from the initials of H. E. Weeghman, proprietor. Open 
for luncheon and dinner. 

FRENCH TABLE D'HOTE 

1710 Orrington Ave., Evanston , III, 
A unique tea room on the first floor of the Orrington 
Hotel, decorated in the modernist style by Benjamin 
Marshall, one of the outstanding architects of Chicago. 
You help yourself at an hors d'oeuvres table; the wait- 
resses wheel out an electric cart and serve from chafing 
dishes; the entrfe include meats, fish, roasts, and 
chicken; the pastries are delicious; and you may make 
your choice as to which of the several delightful little 
modernist rooms you intend eating in. Worth visiting 
for the novel color effects. There is a $L00 table d'hote 
dinner. Open for luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner. 

THE HOMESTEAD 

1625 Hinman Avenue, Evanston, III, 
The Tea Room of the Homestead Hotel, located off the 
lobby on the first floor, is authentically Colonial in at- 
mosphere and gives you the feeling of some old tavern 
along the New England roads. The ceiling is made of 
rough-hewn beams, the south wall is panelled in pine, 
genuine early American color prints decorate the walls, 
and an old blunderbuss and warming pan are features 
of the brick fireplace, where a real log fire burns. Most 
interesting of all, however, is the scenic wallpaper on 

236 



the north wall, depicting scenes in early American his- 
tory. Made from century-old French wood blocks, this 
paper causes amusement because of its naive conceptions 
of American scenery and life. For example, Spanish 
moss hangs from the trees in the vicinity of Boston. 
Miss Isetta Anderson is hostess here. Philadelphia pep- 
per pot, an appetizing soup, is a popular item on the 
menu. The other dishes show the hand of a skillful chef. 

THE PURPLE PUP 524 Davis Street, Evans ton III, 
Nothing like it anywhere in Evanston — or Chicago, for 
that matter. Dedicated to food, fun, music, and danc- 
ing, the Purple Pup is a tiny jazz parlor patronized 
solely by students from Northwestern University, 
Evanston High School, and other North Shore schools, 
and is as collegiate as a raccoon coat. The most amaz- 
ing thing about it all is that these boys and girls can 
be so gay, bohemian, and garrulous on nothing more 
than the Purple Pup's special Black Bottom sundae, or 
the special sandwiches named after all the diflferent kinds 
of dogs. The boys do not bother to take oflF their hats, 
the girls sit on table tops, the dance floor is no bigger 
than a minute and is packed all the time, the orchestra 
blares away in fox trot time, couples smoke in booths, 
and many go back to the kitchen and make up their 
own sandwiches. The Purple Pup is operated by two 
former college boys. Jack B. Roxton and Ernest Smed- 
berg. Smedberg is a nephew of Frank Smedberg, who 
managed the famed King's restaurant in Chicago in the 
old days. Dancing is featured on "Wednesday and Friday 
afternoons, and Friday and Saturday evenings. This 
is the only dine-and-dance place in Evanston. 

237 



VILLA DEMETRE 

1623 Sheridan Road, No Man*s Land, III, 
Where all the North Shore eats its barbecue and chicken 
sandwiches. Also an eating place for motorists along 
Sheridan Road. Located in No Man's Land, that Span- 
ish village pleasure spot between Kenilworth and Wil- 
mette. Along with the other buildings here, Villa De- 
metre is Spanish in style and its proprietor is William 
Demetre, who operates another barbecue stand at June- 
way Terrace and Sheridan Road. In both places, you 
use the running water finger bowl to clean your fingers. 

MORAINE HOTEL DINING ROOM 

Highland Park, III. 
An elegant and ritzy eating hall for the fashionables of 
the North Shore, serving all the standard dishes in a 
style that meets the approval of well-travelled epicures. 
During the summer opera season at Ravinia, which is 
nearby, this dining room is crowded with Italian, French, 
and German contraltos and baritones, as well as the 
Social Registerites of the vicinity. Expensive, and open 
for luncheon, and dinner. Located just off Sheridan 
Road. 



DEERPATH INN 

255 East Illinois Road, Lake Forest, III. 
A quaint and refined old English inn, always crowded 
with the debs, college boys, and aristocratic ladies and 
gentlemen of the exclusive Lake Forest millionaire col- 
ony. The food, of course, is beyond criticism. Open 

238 



for luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner. Truly, a de- 
lightful adventure in epicureanism. 

WINDSOR TEA ROOM 

717 South Boulevard y Oak Park, III. 
Swinging around to Oak Park, that swanky suburb di- 
rectly west of Chicago, we come to the Windsor, which 
has a good sized clientele among the diners-out of the 
village, said to be the largest village in the world. This 
place is open for luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner, 
and the standard American dishes are found on the 
menu. 

THE CHANTICLEER DINING ROOM 

13 8 South Oak Park Ave,, Oak Park, III, 
Another smart eating establishment of the village, and 
well patronized, too. The pastries are notable, the 
waitresses alert, and the prices reasonable. There is an- 
other Chanticleer at 124 Wisconsin Avenue. 

THE THREE SISTERS TEA ROOM 

180 North Marion Avenue, Oak Park, III, 
Over thirty years ago three sisters started a small eating 
establishment at Madison Street and Crawford Avenue, 
on the far west side of Chicago. Today, they still operate 
it and its fame is based solely on the excellent quality 
of the foods served. Now they have opened this tea 
room in Oak Park and are meeting with as much suc- 
cess as in the Chicago place. It is in an old residence 
and the scheme of decoration is early American. 
Chicken, roasts, and sea foods are the popular items on 

239 



the menu. Sunday dinner is served from 12 noon to 
4 P.M. Prices standard. 

DEL-RIO RESTAURANT 

5615 West Roosevelt Road, Cicero, III, 
One evening in April, 1926, Assistant State's Attorney 
William McSwiggin and two west side O'Donnell 
gangsters were shot and killed by Capone machine gun- 
ners in front of this Cicero establishment. Called the 
Pony Inn at that time, it was a speakeasy and had been 
a meeting place of the O'Donnell gang. Events have 
since proven that, although in the company of gangsters, 
McSwiggin was killed accidentally. Today, with its 
name changed, this place is a quiet barbecue restaurant, 
serving also first-rate chicken and steaks. It is patron- 
ized a good deal by motorists. 

HAWTHORNE RESTAURANT 

4823 West 22nd Street, Cicero, III 
Some months after the McSwiggin murder, Capone was 
said to have been eating in this restaurant, located on 
the ground floor of the Hawthorne Hotel (now called 
the Western), when a motorcade of north side gang- 
sters sprayed the front of the restaurant and the hotel 
with hundreds of machine gun slugs. The Big Fellow 
escaped injury, but one of his henchmen and a woman 
by-stander were wounded. Capone, according to legend, 
paid the hospital bills for the recovery of the woman. 
The Hawthorne Hotel has always been known as the 
Cicero headquarters of the gang chief. Today, the 
Hawthorne Restaurant is a regular counter and table 
lunch room, serving the standard American dishes at all 

240 



hours of the day and night. It is patronized by the 
workers in the business district around it and those from 
the monster plant of the Western Electric Company 
nearby. , . 



241 



TEMPLES OF THE SUN-DODGERS 

A Sun-Dodger is a person who worships at the altar of 
Jazz. Sun-Dodgers make up a large sect in Chicago, 
which derives most of its membership from individuals 
known as nighthawks, Loophounds, bons vivants, men- 
about-town, butter and q^^ men, and "suckers." The 
Sun-Dodger comes to life only when other people go to 
bed. Members of this strange sect do not know the 
color of sunshine, but are plenty familiar with the vari- 
ous colors of moonshine. In order to carry out their 
ritual, Sun-Dodgers visit the numerous gaudy and color- 
ful Temples provided for them by wily High Priests in 
all sections of the city. 

Handmaidens function in these Temples, going 
through dance steps which express in no uncertain terms 
the spirit of Jazz. Strange liquids and potions are 
sipped by the devotees as they watch the handmaidens 
do their stuff in an atmosphere filled with the incense 
of cigarettes and cigars; or perhaps the Sun-Dodgers eat 
peculiar substances which, according to reports reaching 
the outside world, are said to be foods. The whole 
ritual is presided over by a person known as a Master of 
Ceremonies. Sometimes the Master is a woman, who ad- 

242 



dresses the devotees by their strictly technical title, 
**suckers." 

But the motivating force of the entire life of the 
Temple is a group of young demons who, sitting on a 
raised altar, blow into all sorts of odd silvered and golden 
instruments and beat toms-toms and strike various wood 
and metal objects, the effect of which causes the Sun- 
Dodger to fall into a fine frenzy (or over a table). 
This is continued all night long until the first pink peek 
of dawn over the minarets of the Temple. The Sun- 
Dodger is now ready to go home. But before doing so 
he is required to pay tribute to the wily High Priest of 
the Temple for the privilege of partaking in the night's 
ritual — which tribute takes the form of numerous slips 
of green paper. Quite numerous, in fact. But the de- 
votee does not complain. He goes home and crawls 
into bed — just when others are getting up. 

Do you wish to join this happy and care-free sect? 
There is plenty of room for new members. In the fol- 
lowing pages we have listed a few of the more worth- 
while Temples where the Sun-Dodgers of the city and 
others worship the great god. Jazz. The only require- 
ment for admission is plenty of those slips of green 
paper. 

MACK'S CLUB 1 2 East Pearson Street 

Bright spot of the near north side, a stone's throw from 
Michigan Avenue and the Gold Coast. Where every 
night is New Year's Eve. The famous Harry McKelvey 
is host and Harry Glyn, who knows how to entertain, 
is master of ceremonies. For feminine diversion there 
are Trudy Davidson and a collection of pretty faces and 

243 



nimble dance feet. Keith Beecher and his Melody 
Makers provide the music — and what music. Intimate 
atmosphere. You'll have plenty of fun. Cover charge, 
$1.00. Whitehall 6667. 

VANITY FAIR Z03 Grace Street 

Other night clubs come and go but the Vanity Fair re- 
mains forever. Or so it seems. Occupying the site of 
the once famous Marigold Gardens. Has a large fol- 
lowing on the north side of Chicago, particularly in 
the uptown district. Four floor shows nightly and no 
cover charge. The food is good and high-class people 
come here. Leo Wolf and his orchestra contribute much 
toward the popularity of this place. Otto E. Singer, 
likable and hearty, runs the Vanity Fair. Buckingham 
3254. 

CLUB ALABAM 747 Rush Street 

More dusk to dawn diversion on the near north side. 
Evelyn Nesbit Thaw was a big drawing card when she 
was here recently. Dan Blanco is host, Slater Brockman 
does the mastering, and Willie Newberger's orchestra 
furnishes the music — which, by the by, is nothing if not 
*'hot." Floor shows and vaudeville entertainers and 
Chinese and Southern dishes — what a combination. 
Cover charge, $L00. Delaware 0808. 

CLUB AMBASSADEUR 226 East Ontario Street 

A real sun- dodgers Mecca, east of Michigan Avenue and 
but five minutes from the Loop. The boys and girls 
call it a "hot spot." It occupies one of those old man- 
sions and is very cozy and intimate. Jimmie Noone 

244 



and his orchestra provide the music for the floor shows — 
and for you. And there is an after-theatre menu in 
case you get hungry. No cover charge. Delaware 0930. 

BLACKHA^VnC: 139 North Wabash Avenue 

Here in the Loop for quite a few years, as night clubs 
go — and how they go! An elegant dining room and 
lots of gay and interesting people. Comes to life when 
the Rialto theatres die for the night. The Coon-Sanders 
band is here to help you forget your worries and 
tickle your toes. Also, other entertainment. No cover 
charge. Dearborn 6262. 

FROLICS 1 8 East 22nd Street 

When other places have folded up for the night, the 
Frolics is just beginning. Charles Kaley and his orches- 
tra. Dine and dance until dawn. Earl Rickard is master 
of ceremonies. Four shows nightly and Theatrical Night, 
featuring visiting stage celebs, on Wednesdays. Sixteen 
girls in the chorus and all lively and good to look upon. 
The place was recently remodeled. Always a lot of 
Chicago notables at the tables. Mike Fritzel and Ralph 
Gallet are the well-known managers. Victory 7011. 

COLOSIMO'S 2126 South Wabash Avenue 

Where Al Capone got his start. That was after "Big 
Jim" Colosimo went mysteriously and hastily to his 
eternal reward way back in 1920. His violent demise 
has never been solved. But all tKat is in the past. To- 
day, Colosimo*s is just another night life center. The 
food and entertainment are on a par with those of other 
night clubs. There is a seven-course table d'hote dinner 

245 



for $1.50, featuring a whole baby lobster. A la carte 
service at all hours. Jimmy Meo and his orchestra 
provide the music for dancing and the four nightly 
revues. Something of a novelty here are the * 'Horse 
Races," where you may act as jockey and perhaps win 
a prize. No, you won't get shot here, and the eminent 
Mr. Capone is never seen in the place — now that he's 
been graduated. Calumet 1127. 

CASA GRANADA 6800 Cottage Grove Avenue 

Most popular of south side night clubs. The Granada 
made Guy Lombardo and Guy Lombardo made the 
Granada. Big Paul Whiteman and his big orchestra 
now provide the music . . . and hey! hey! Al Quodbach, 
impresario, has provided a lavish musical show with 
eighteen chorines any one of whom would cause you 
to leave home if you're the home-leaving type. There 
is no cover charge. Billy Leather is head waiter. Dor- 
chester 0074. 



OTHER PLACES IN WHICH YOU 

CAN DINE, DANCE, AND 

BE ENTERTAINED 

AFTER THE 

THEATRE 

NEW COLLEGE INN, basement of Hotel Sherman, 
Clark and Randolph Streets. Described in chapter 
"Around the Town" as a restaurant. One of the best 

246 



after-theatre dine-and-dance places in Chicago. Ben 
Bernie is orchestra leader and master of ceremonies and 
there is none better in either capacity anywhere in town. 
Theatrical Night on Thursdays. Here's where the 
idea of Theatrical Night originated . . . BAL TABARIN, 
another Hotel Sherman institution. Open only on Sat- 
urday nights after the theatre. Very swanky, a first- 
class entertainment program, good food, and lots of 
well-known people among the guests . . . LINCOLN 
TAVERN TOWN CLUB, 4806 Broadway. Where the 
uptown sun-dodgers go. Texas Guinan used to have 
this place. Diverting revues, plenty of fun, and *'hot" 
music. Jack Huff, who conducts the Lincoln Tavern 
outside the city limits during the summertime, is host. 
. . . CASA DE ALEX, 58 East Delaware Place. De- 
scribed in chapter "Dining in Bohemia.** This place 
also functions as a dine-and-dance center during the wee 
small hours. Here is the atmosphere of old Spain — as 
well as the music . . . TEBJRA.CE GARDEN, basement 
of Morrison Hotel, Clark and Madison Streets. De- 
scribed in chapter "Rialto Tables.** . . . VENETIAN 
ROOM, Hotel Southmoor, 67th Street and Stony Island 
Avenue. Night life near Jackson Park. Order what 
you please and dance as long as you like . . . MARINE 
DINING ROOM, Edgewater Beach Hotel, 5349 Sheri- 
dan Road. Where the north side dines and dances until 
2 A.M. or thereabouts . . . GOLDEN PUMPKIN INN, 
3829 West Madison Street. As big as a convention hall 
but much more entertaining. Night life rendezvous of 
the far west side. Jack Chapman and his orchestra and 
floor shows . . . CANTON TEA GARDEN, 404 South 
Wabash Avenue. "Airplane quality of food at sub- 

247 



marine prices." Chinese and American cuisine. Dan 
Russo and his orchestra, the favorites of Station KYW, 
furnish music for dancing and the floor shows. Celeb- 
rity Night every Wednesday, when theatrical stars at- 
tend . . . FLEUR DE NOR, on Broadway, at Devon 
Avenue. The famous old Northern Lights Cafe, on the 
far north side, redecorated and renamed. The usual 
music, floor shows, and foods . . . TURKISH VILLAGE 
CAFE, 606 North Clark Street. A snappy orchestra; 
entertainers sing at your table; food if you get hungry; 
Turkish decorations; and George Mason to see that you 
are enjoying yourself . . . SHOW BOAT, 205 North 
Clark Street. Latest of the Loop night clubs, occupying 
the basement where the late Ed Hester had his famed 
fish camp. Louis Armstrong, *'king of the trumpet," 
and his orchestra, are a thrill to people who take their 
music hot . . . GRAND TERRACE CAFE, 395 5 South 
Parkway. A lively black-and-tan in the heart of the 
south side Blackbelt. Ed Fox is impresario. All-colored 
floor shows and the best in town. Earl Hines' band. 
Wealthy people come here . . . CLUB CASANOVA, 
1023 North State Street. Latest of the Tower Town 
night clubs. Five minutes from the Loop. Colored 
chorines, plenty of music and gayety and food . . . 
MUSIC BOX, 63 53 Cottage Grove Avenue. Dom 
Acri's music boys play here nightly and entertain diners 
and dancers of the south side . . . VIA LAGO, 837 
Wilson Avenue. Earl Hoffman's music, plus several 
revues, plus a glass dance floor, plus colorful surround- 
ings, plus prices within the means of high school kids . . . 
THE LIMEHOUSE, 1563 Howard Avenue. Way up 
north on the boundary line of the city. Chinese- 

248 



American dishes. Another place for high school girls 
and boys and students from Northwestern University 
. . . CLUB BAGDAD, 6400 Cottage Grove Avenue. 
Another south side rendezvous, located in the Pershing 
Hotel. Billie Adair's band and plenty of fun . . . C AND 
O BARBECUE RESTAURANT, 509 North Clark 
Street. Another Clark Street night club, five minutes 
from the Loop ... EL HAREM, 165 North Michigan 
Avenue. Described in chapter *'Along the Avenue." 
Music, floor shows, and dancing in a perfumed Turkish 
atmosphere . . . THE VOGUE CAFE, 4640 Cottage 
Grove Avenue. Plenty of entertainment, good music, and 
dancing. Located on the south side. The Liquorsham 
Committee reported that the Vogue was a headquarters 
of certain members of the Capone gang. Believe it or 
not. 



249 



THE GREAT BLACK WAY 

Way down south, around 3 5th Street, 47th Street, and 
Garfield Boulevard, lies Chicago's great Blackbelt. It 
is a **city within a city;" it speaks its own language and 
has its own churches, schools, dance halls, movie palaces 
and Hve and ten cent stores; also, it has such institutions 
unique to the locality as barbecue stands. East India 
herb shops, and black-and-tan night clubs. It is, in 
short, the Harlem of Chicago. 

Now, in keeping with the times, white people visit 
the Blackbelt in great numbers. Mainly they come at 
night, and late at night, to partake of the happy-go- 
lucky and joyous spirit supposed to be inherent in the 
Negro soul. This they find in the black-and-tan night 
clubs, where Jazz is expressed in a way that could never 
be duplicated in any white cabaret. All is lively, lurid, 
noisy and **hot" in a Negro night club, and the pro- 
ceedings get much '^hotter" as the night wears on. 
Here, also, are the Negro "blues" singers, the amazing 
tap dancers, those high-yellow chorines, and those snare 
drummers and saxophone artists who seem almost pos- 
sessed by wild demons. Here, too, among the patrons, 
you will find the dashing dandies of the Great Black 
Way and their amber-eyed fair companions — as well 

251 



as successful Negro lawyers, politicians, business men 
and professional men. 

Many white people, on the other hand, come down to 
the Blackbelt for sightseeing purposes, and not a few 
come to partake of delicious Southern dishes offered in 
the various high-class restaurants and tea rooms of the 
district. There are three or four such places where 
Southern foods are prepared by big Negro mammys, as 
skillful in handling a frying-pan as they are in their 
ability to produce laughter and good cheer. 

Both black-and-tan night clubs and Negro restaurants 
are included in the following list, which is selective and 
contains only those places of good repute. Incidentally, 
if you want to retain the few rubles left in your pocket 
after a visit to a black-and-tan, do not walk about on 
the deserted side-streets of the Blackbelt at a late hour. 
Like a good little boy, stick to the lighted highways. 
And another thing: Don't forget that when you are in 
the Blackbelt you are in an alien world — superficially, 
at least — and that there are ladies and gentlemen among 
the Negroes as there are among the whites. Therefore, 
the Golden Rule applies here as it does anywhere else. 
Now then, be on your way and enjoy yourselves! 

GRAND TERRACE 3955 South Parkway 

Swankiest of the Blackbelt night clubs, and one of the 
oldest. It is richly furnished and there is plenty of 
room for black, white, and intermediate shades. The 
floor show is elaborate and contains some of the most 
attractive colored chorines west of Harlem, as well as 
lively tap dancers and vaudeville teams. Music is fur- 
nished by Hines' band, which is nothing if not "hot." 

252 



Saturday night is the big night at the Grand Terrace. 
Many of the patrons are white, this place being too 
expensive for the hordes of Negro nighthawks, but 
there are enough dusky damsels and high-brown gentle- 
men to give the place color. Ed Fox is manager. Douglas 
3600. 

PORO TEA ROOM 441 5 South Parkway 

Where the wealthier class of colored people dine and 
lunch. Very elegant and refined and located on the 
first floor of the Poro Beauty College, founded many 
years ago by Annie M. Malone, said to be one of the 
richest colored women in the country. This college oc- 
cupies the imposing gray stone mansion in South Park- 
way built by the late John R. Thompson, who estab- 
lished the chain of one-arm restaurants. The food is of 
the best quality and the menu contains a few Southern 
specialties. Miss MacMurray is hostess. This tea room is 
patronized frequently for afternoon tea by groups of 
sightseeing students from Northwestern University and 
the University of Chicago. Open for luncheon, afternoon 
tea and dinner. 

THE GOLDEN LILY 309 East Garfield Boulevard 
The management is Chinese but the clientele is practi- 
cally all colored. You can have more fun here than in 
many other places, especially on a Saturday night. The 
colored orchestra is really keen, the surroundings are 
colorful, and the colored folks know how to enjoy them- 
selves. You won't feel out of place, since everybody is 
polite and no rough stuff is allowed. There are several 
floor shows. The prices are within the means of the 
average individual. Wentworth 0820. 

253 



CLUB EL RADO 23 5 East Garfield Boulevard 

A block west of the Golden Lily. Made famous by 
Nora Holt, the internationally-known "blues" singer. 
The Monkey Club, started by Gentile Jimmy, a Black- 
belt character, is the big event on Sunday night. The 
orchestra warms up during the late hours, and so do 
the entertainers, chorus girls, and buck-and-wing danc- 
ers. Situated one flight down. Italian cooking if you 
get hungry. Engelwood 1053 5. 

RITZ CLUB 343 East Garfield Boulevard 

Bill Bottoms' popular black-and-tan, where the atmos- 
phere is torrid during the wee small hours. Plenty of 
action from the colored saxophone player and the drum- 
mer, and the entertainment goes on at a merry clip. 
Floor shows, dancing between, exotic atmosphere, food, 
and the beaming personality of Bill himself. Chicken 
and chops are a specialty on the menu. 

THE SUNSET 3 1 5 East 3 5 th Street 

Last survivor of a day (or night) when black-and-tans 
were plentiful along 3 5 th Street, which was then called 
the Rialto of the Blackbelt. The Sunset is still popular 
among after-theatre crowds and the amusement and 
atmosphere are on a par with those found elsewhere in 
the colored section of Chicago. Douglas 6100. 

DUCK INN 4845 South Parkway 

Mrs. Elier Richardson, a large, amiable colored woman 
and an expert cook, is proprietor of this dining room 
on the first floor of an old mansion. Her fried chicken 
a la Richardson is delicious and done to a turn; so are 

254 



the roast duck, the frogs* legs, scallops, hot biscuits, 
waffles, butterscotch pie and lemon pie, and the corn 
bread. Her Sunday dinners are $1.00 and many white 
people come to her board. Most of her patrons belong 
to the professional and commercial classes on the south 
side. Kenwood 6220. 

CHAPMAN'S 3708 Indiana Avenue 

A white-tiled counter, a table lunch room, and quite 
a few Southern dishes, prepared by an expert chef. 
Here are Southern fried chicken with rice, black-eyed 
peas with salt pork, turnip greens and ham, fried corn 
and bacon, sausage and fried apples, red beans and rice. 
Southern hash and hominy grits, barbecue meats, and 
sweet potato cobbler. Anderson B. Chapman conducts 
the place and it is open until late. Douglas 0172. 

KING TUT'S TOMB 4711 South Michigan Avenue 
Another dine-and-dance place, situated under the 
ground. Said to be the hottest spot in town. Al Bent- 
ley's King Tut Syncopating Mummies, featuring Lee 
Collins, the jazz cornetist from New Orleans, provide 
music that would make a mummy come to life. Atmos- 
pheric and lots of fun. Kenwood 0800. 

KING GEORGE'S 4809 South State Street 

Here is the big thrill in the Blackbelt. King George 
(Mr. William Hale Thompson please note), is none 
other than the eminent Mr. George Oglesby, the barbe- 
cue king, who learned how to cook barbecue meat in 
the hills of Tennessee. Theatrical people, diners-out 
from the Loop, politicians, and policemen from the 

255 



various Blackbelt police stations come to King George's 
Southern Barbecue Inn at all hours of the night and 
day for the delicious and wholly satisfying barbecue 
sandwiches that he serves. His place is a dingy one- 
story nondescript shack, in a neighborhood of shacks, 
but it houses the first and only authentic barbecue pit 
in town. It is a large brick fireplace, taking up half 
the space, and here you see chickens, pork, beef, and 
other meats being broiled in the leaping flames. White 
visitors stand about, eating the sandwiches; colored cus- 
tomers are at the counters; a negro youth plays a piano 
all night long; cooks are chopping up chickens with 
hatchets; the atmosphere is gay and bohemian and every- 
body laughs at King George's sallies and wise-cracks. 
The sandwiches are 2 5 cents. You may also call up and 
have King George's dishes delivered to your home any- 
where in the city. Southern catfish is also served here. 
Don't miss this place. The meats are clean and served 
under sanitary conditions. Drexel 3223. 



256 



WIDE OPEN SPACES 

Out on the county highways leading into Chicago, where 
the motorists get reckless and the grasshoppers hop, 
stand the roadhouses. Mostly they ofifer chicken din- 
ners. We don't know why they feature chicken din- 
ners; perhaps because you think of chicken when you 
get out into the wide open spaces. Anyway, here is 
the barnyard fowl — and served in a most appetizing 
style. Or is it the ozone in your blood that makes you 
feel it is appetizing? Of course, they also play up 
steak and chop dinners — which you eat with great rel- 
ish, too. And several of these places, particularly those 
south of Chicago near the shore of the lake, make a 
specialty of Lake Michigan perch dinners. 

Northwest of Chicago, and directly west of the mil- 
lionaire colonies along the North Shore, are located the 
pleasure palaces of the wide open spaces. These are 
lavish dine-and-dance establishments, serving first-class 
foods and providing elaborate revues and music and 
space for dancing. In such places, Chicagoans and North 
Shoreites enjoy themselves during the summer nights, 
feeling a sense of relief among the cool trees after a hot 
feverish day in the city. 

If you are interested and own a motor car, and if 

257 



you don't mind getting caught in traffic jams on the 
way out or on the way in, then the following places are 
worth your time and attention. 

VILLA VENICE Milwaukee Koad, at Desplaines River 
Most elaborate, novel, and swanky of all night life 
centers in the wide open spaces outside Chicago. Located 
northwest of the city, on the wide-spreading Milwaukee 
Road, just where it bridges the old Desplaines River. 
Also, conveniently set down directly west of the mil- 
lionaire colonies along the North Shore, and the 
millionaires and their guests do come here pretty con- 
sistently. The Villa Venice is said to be America's only 
theatre restaurant. A big rambling casino forms the 
center-piece of an eighteen-acre estate; tall poplar trees 
line the paths and avenues and colored lights depend 
from them; there are also stone benches, fountains, 
flower beds and plaster statues; you may dine on the 
terrace or you may ride in a gondola on the river, the 
while your gondoHer strums a mandolin. Nowhere 
in Chicagoland can you get the illusion of being in some 
gay and elegant Monte Carlo pleasure palace as at the 
Villa Venice. 

In the ballroom and main dining room of the casino, 
decorated with the modernist murals of the Russian 
artist, Roman Chatov, you observe the gorgeous revues 
and floor shows which have made the name and fame of 
M. Albert Bouche, proprietor of the Villa Venice. He 
is also proprietor of the Villa Venice at Miami Beach. 
Here, also, at the hands of deft and polite waiters, you 
may partake of those rare dishes created by Chef Pierre, 

258 



formerly of the Tour d'Argent in Paris. These specials 
are Hsted on the a la carte menu and are worth the 
attention of any epicure. There are three floor shows 
nightly, made up largely of imported talent, and music 
is furnished by skillful Cuban musicians from Havana. 
Table d'hote dinners are $3.50, $4.00 and $5.00. The 
couvert is $2.00 on weekdays and $3.00 on Saturdays. 
Telephone: Wheeling 8 or 107. 

NEW DELLS Dempster Road, Morton Grove, III 

Another well-known dine-and-dance pavilion among 
the Cottonwood trees northwest of Chicago. Everybody 
seems to know Sam Hare and his New Dells; he's had 
this place here for over seven years. It is three miles 
west of Evanston and the North Shore and its clientele 
is made up of innumerable captains of industry and 
capitalists and their wives and guests, out for an eve- 
ning's diversion. There is room for nine hundred on the 
large dance floor, and music is supplied by such popular 
orchestra leaders as Ben Bernie, Ted Lewis and George 
Olson. They appear at different periods during the 
season and their lively melodies are broadcast over Sta- 
tion WBBM. Four floor shows nightly, beginning at 
8:30, with a couvert of $1.00. On Saturday night the 
cover charge is $1.50. Steaks, chops, chicken, lobsters, 
and frogs' legs are especially delectable at the New Dells 
and add considerably to the fame of the place. You 
reach the Dells by driving north out of Chicago on 
Sheridan Road, as far as Evanston, then west on Demp- 
ster Road. Morton Grove 1717. 

259 



LINCOLN TAVERN 

Dempster Road, Morton Grove, 111, 
Located down the road a bit from the New Dells, the 
Lincoln Tavern is the oldest of the dine-and-dance 
establishments in these parts. It has a large clientele 
from all parts of Chicago and the North Shore, and 
deservedly so, for the atmosphere here is gay and lively 
and colorful. The dance floor represents the patio of a 
Spanish castle; the colored lighting effects are unique, 
there is room for one thousand persons, and music is 
furnished by such capable masters as Al Handler and 
the great Duke Ellington. Duke Ellington and his band 
are all colored — and how they can play. Three floor 
shows each night. No cover charge. Table d'hote din- 
ners for $2.00, $2.50, and $3.00. Jack Huff, well- 
known manager, closes this place in winter, operating 
instead the Lincoln Tavern Town Club in uptown Chi- 
cago. Morton 1919. 

THE STUDIO INN 

Railroad Avenue, Morton Grove, 111. 
Although there is no music or dancing, the Studio Inn 
gets a heavy "play" from the students at Northwestern 
University in Evanston. They come here for nothing 
else but the excellent steaks, and chops, and chicken 
dinners. Open for luncheon, dinner, and late supper. 
Take Dempster Road west out of Evanston. Morton 
Grove 1780. 

NORTHBROOK INN 

Waukegan Road, Northbrook, 111, 
Another popular spot directly west of Evanston. No 

260 



music, no dancing. Operated by Frank Barthelme, 
whom everybody out northwest seems to know. Good 
chicken dinners, $2.00; steak dinners, $2.25. Open for 
luncheon, dinner, and late supper. Northbrook 9. 

EARLY AMERICAN TEA SHOP Barrington, III 

Not a roadhouse or dine-and-dance place but one of 
the most interesting restaurants in Cook County. The 
chicken dinners are unforgettable and you will come back 
for more. Occupying an old house, this place is charm- 
ingly done in the early American style. Private parties 
and large groups are provided for in the upstairs rooms. 
Dinner, $2.50. Early American antiques all about and 
for sale. We know of no better place for Sunday dinner 
and the ride in the country will do you good. But 
you'd better call up first — Barrington 45 5. Take Demp- 
ster Road to Northwest Highway, then to Barrington. 
Not to be missed. 

THE FARM River Road, Schiller Park, III 

Popular among race track crowds returning from the 
Arlington Heights race track out northwest. First-rate 
steaks and capon dinners, and plenty of music and danc- 
ing. No entertainment. Started a few years ago in 
an old residence, but since then considerably enlarged 
because of the crowds. The River Road runs north and 
south, parallel with the old Desplaines River. From the 
city, you reach the Farm by taking Irving Park Boule- 
vard directly west to River Road, then to Schiller Park. 
Franklin Park 297. 

261 



TRIANGLE CAFE 

SIO Desplaines Street, Forest Park, III. 
Directly west of Chicago, in the village of Forest Park. 
Operated by ^'Mickey'* Rafferty, who also operates the 
Antioch Palace, at Antioch, 111. Howard Harrell and 
his orchestra provide the music for dancing and the 
three floor shows, which begin at 10 P. M. Seats for 
over eight hundred. A lively place and plenty of diver- 
sion. From the city, drive west on Harrison Street to 
Forest Park. Forest 1248. 

KING'S 

9602 South Western Aventce, Evergreen Park, 111. 
Turning our attention southwest of Chicago, we come 
to King's restaurant, just across the city limits. The 
best corned beef and steak sandwiches in the county 
may be gotten here and the place is always crowded in 
the evenings. Take any street west to Western Avenue, 
then south to Evergreen Park. Operated by Mike King. 
Evergreen Park 81. 

WILD WOOD INN 

Forest Avenue, Willow Springs, III. 
A quaint little old house among the rolling green hills 
of Willow Springs, just off the Joliet Road out south- 
west. Overlooks the sluggish Desplaines River. Con- 
ducted by the Olsen family, who know how to cook 
steaks and chicken in a most appetizing way. Many 
politicians from Chicago's City Hall eat here. You'll 
enjoy it. Willow Springs 48. Take Archer Avenue to 
Willow Springs. 

262 



SMIDT'S RESTAURANT 

430 Indianapolis Boulevard, Hammond, Ind. 
Philip H. Smidt's big rambling old fish restaurant, south- 
east of Chicago, where baseball players, sportsmen, and 
lots of people from town go for their Lake Michigan 
perch dinners. Chicken and steaks are also featured 
here. Dinners, $1.50. Private dining rooms for large 
parties. Open from 11 A. M. until closing — which 
might be any hour of the night. Located just over the 
Chicago boundary line in Indiana and only a short dis- 
tance from the shore of Lake Michigan. To reach it 
from the city go to South Chicago, then southeast on 
Indianapolis Boulevard. Whiting 25 or 720. 

LUNDGREN'S 

1519 Calumet Avenue, Hammond, Ind, 
Many of Chicago's fish lovers and diners-out prefer 
Lundgren's restaurant, located in the same vicinity as 
Phil Smidt's. The Lake Michigan perch (from Lake 
Erie) served here is a delicious treat to the palate, and 
so are the steaks and the chicken and the frogs' legs. 
Fridays and Sundays are the big days here. Carl Lund- 
gren, who founded this place over twelve years ago, is 
dead, but the present management successfully carries 
on the traditions started by him. Dinners, $1.50. Open 
from 11 A. M. to 12 midnight. Whiting 297 or 13 6- J. 



263 



COVER CHARGES AND MINIMUM 

CHARGES 

'When we hear people complain about a cover charge in 
a night club that furnishes entertainment, we become 
annoyed. They do not realize that they are getting 
what amounts to a theatrical performance in return for 
the payment of the cover charge — and at even less 
cost than in a downtown theatre. Don't get the im- 
pression that we are in the pay of the night clubs for 
making this statement. No indeed, not by a long shot. 
We merely want you to understand what a cover charge 
is all about. Most places that assess you for the privilege 
of sitting at one of their tables stage a more or less 
lavish floor show or other form of entertainment. It 
costs money to put on such entertainment. And this 
money comes from your cover charge. 



Many places advertise "no cover charge" — but they 
obtain the equivalent in another manner — the minimum 
charge. In other words, you cannot buy any food — 
or anything at all, for that matter — under a certain 
figure. Let us say that the minimum charge is $2.50. 
That means you must accept all the food they bring out 

265 



to you for $2.50, whether you can eat it or not. You 
might just as well partake of it, since you cannot get 
out of the place without laying down the two-fifty. 

There is a third method of gently forcing you to 
contribute to the support of the entertainers. This is 
done in many of the night clubs which have neither 
cover charge nor minimum charge. It is very simple. 
They simply charge you from one-half to two dollars 
for a 25 cent bottle of White Rock, Ginger Ale, or a 
bowl of cracked ice, or any other similar essential to a 
happy and successful evening. 



266 



TIPPING 

The Great American — we were going to say "art", but 
that isn't the word; perhaps "habit" is better — anyway, 
the great American habit of tipping, which has now 
spread to all corners of the globe, is little understood 
by the average American. It is a well-known fact that 
most Americans do not use their heads in tipping. They 
tip more than they should simply because they do not 
want to appear to be under-tipping, or because they are 
careless. There is no reason why this should be done. 
Let us, in our humble way, give you the lowdown on 
the manner in which an experienced man-about-town 
would do it. 

During the noon hour, fifteen cents is the usual 
contribution on a check which amounts to one dollar 
and a half or less. Nobody would think of tipping 
less. Incidentally, many waitresses get a very small 
salary from the management and derive most of their 
income from the tips. This is fair and square. 

If your check, whether at noon hour or dinner hour 
or at any other time, amounts to more than one fifty 
and less than five dollars, you'd better tip on a basis 
of fifteen per cent. This is the usual figure practised 
by all veteran diners-out who wish to avoid the little 

267 



annoyances on the part of the attendants if anything 
less is offered. 

When your check is above five dollars, then you must ^ 

think in terms of twenty per cent. In any case, any- 
thing less than a dollar would be regarded as heretical. 



268 



INDEX 



(See page 270 for complete alphabetical list of restaurants) 



NATIONALITY 

American .... 23, 31, 48, 58, 61, 
68, 69, 73, 80, 85, 87, 89, 94, 
96, 98, 110, 111, 112, 116, 119, 
121, 123, 125, 126, 127, 131, 
132, 133, 134, 138, 140, 141, 
142,, 145, 146, 147, 148, 166, 
186-197, 202-206, 208-216, 218- 
226 
Arabian .... 169 
Austro- American .... 89 
Bohemian .... 176 
Bohemian- American .... 52 
Chinese .... 130, 135, 168, 186 
English .... 34, 191 
Filipino .... 181 
Franco- American .... 90, 101 
Franco-Italian . . . . 185, 191, 

196, 210 
French .... 71, 78, 143, 193 
French-Creole .... 38, 63 
German .... 108, 129, 179 
German- American .... 26, 36, 

42, 55, 75 
Greek . . . . 120, 171 
Hungarian .... 184, 194 
Italian .... 44, 115, 117, 122, 



150, 166, 173, 174, 184, 185, 
187, 191, 193, 196, 213, 254 

Italian- American .... 83, 165 

Japanese .... 170 

Jewish- American .... 66, 114, 211 

Jewish (Kosher) .... 66, 174, 216 

Mexican- American .... 124, 172 

Polish .... 178 

Roumanian .... 175 

Russian .... 92, 177 

Spanish .... 190 

Swedish .... 99, 180, 185 

Swedish- American .... 224 

Turkish .... 151 

L(x:ality 

The Loop — Rialto . . . . 30, 31, 
48, 55, 58, 61, 73, 80, 94, 107- 
136, 202-206, 208, 212, 213, 246 

Michigan Avenue . . . . 23, 44, 
138-166 

Uptown .... 92, 96, 178, 181, 

214, 215, 216, 223-226 

Tower Town .... 63, 68, 90, 99, 

101, 184-197 
North Side .... 75, 179, 180, 

215, 243, 244, 245 

South Side .... 34, 36, 38, 42, 



269 



1 



52, 66, 69, 78, 83, 98, 168-176, 
252-25J 
West Side .... 71, 85, 177, 209, 

210, 211, 215 
Suburbia .... 234-241, 258-262 
TABLE D'HOTES .... 23, 31, 
36, 42, 44, 55, 61, 63, 66, 68, 
71, 75, 78, 80, 83, 85, 87, 90, 
92, 94, 96, 98, 99, 101, HI, 
120, 121, 126, 134, 138, 140, 
141, 143, 147, 150, 151, 152, 
156, 157, 158, 160, 163, 179, 
184, 186, 191, 192, 193, 196, 
209, 210, 211, 214, 218, 220, 
225, 226, 228, 232, 236, 258, 
260, 261, 263 
WITH DANCING .... 48, 61, 
108, 121, 123, 126, 130, 134, 
135, 138, 151, 158, 188, 190, 
191, 211, 224, 237, 243, 244, 
245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 252- 
256, 258 
WITH ENTERTAINMENT .... 
48, 92, 211, 243, 244, 245, 246, 
247, 248, 249, 252-256, 258 
RESTAURANTS 
Alice Baum's Dining Room .... 

225 
Alps .... 104 
Amato's Cafe .... 173 
Amber Pie ... . 193 
Anna Lyon Tea Shop .... 214 
Anne's Restaurant .... 131 
Aquarium Cafe .... 106 
Aquarium Restaurant .... 104 
Arcade Cafeteria .... 204 
Arcade Institute .... 1 54 
Atlantic Dining Room .... 55 
Auditorium .... 157 
B-G Sandwich Shop .... 204 
Bal Tabarin .... 247 
Ballantine's .... 186 



Bamboo Inn .... 130 
Baron's .... 216 
Belden-Stratford Hotel .... 105 
Belmont Hotel .... 106 
Berghoflf's .... 103 
Bismarck Dining Room .... 108 
Bit of Sweden .... 185 
Blackhawk .... 245 
Blackhawk Restaurant .... 126 
Black Oaks, The .... 226 
Blackstone, The .... 160 
Blackthorn Tavern .... 191 
Blue Fountain Room; Hotel La 

Salle .... 61 
Block's .... 166 
Bob's Coffee Shop .... 189 
Bollard & Frazier's Chop House 

.... 110 
Bon Vivant .... 78 
Boston Oyster House .... 94 
Boston Store Dining Room . . . . 

231 
Boveri Italian Restaurant .... 104 
Bradshaw's .... 140 
Brennan's .... 126 
Brevoort Hotel .... 31 
Cafe Francaise .... 104 
Cafe Kantonese .... 186 
Cafe Royal .... 211 
Land O Barbecue Restaurant .... 

249 
Canton Tea Garden .... 247 
Carson's .... 232 
Casa De Alex .... 190, 247 
Casa Granada .... 246 
Casa Lago .... 193 
Celtic Grill .... 125 
Chanticleer Dining Room . . . . 

239 
Chapman's .... 2 5 5 
Chez Dore .... 193 
Chez Louis .... 101 



270 



Chad's .... 131 




Giro's Grill .... 


90 


Club Alabam . . . 


. 244 


Club Ambassador . 


... 244 


Club Bagdad . . . 


. 249 


Club Casanova . . 


. . 248 


Club El Rado . . . 


. 254 


Coffee Dan's . . . , 


. 123 


Colonial Tea Shop 


. ... 195 



Colosimo's .... 245 
Congress Hotel .... 158 
Cooley's Cupboard .... 235 
Corona Cafe .... 215 
Davis Store .... 232 
Deerpath Inn .... 238 
De Lazon's .... 132 
Del Rio Restaurant .... 240 
Deutsch's .... 114 
Dill Pickle Club .... 188 
Doric's .... 105 
Drake Hotel .... 138 
Duck-In .... 254 
Dutch Room, The .... 208 
E and M Restaurant .... 105 
E. W. Riech's Restaurant . . 

205 
Early American Tea Shop . . 

261 
Eastgate Grill .... 195 
Eat Shop Cafeteria .... 103 
Edgewater Beach Hotel .... 

247 
Eitel's .... 218 
El Harem .... 151, 249 
El Puerto De Vera Cruz . . . 
Erie Inn .... 194 
Fair, The .... 232 
Farm, The .... 261 
Fleur de Nor .... 248 
Foo Chow, Chinese Restaurant 

103 
Frascati's .... 196 



224, 



172 



French Provincial Room .... 235 

French Table D'Hote .... 236 

Frolics .... 245 

G T Restaurant .... 195 

Garden of Italy .... 213 

Garden of Zanzibar Tea Room .... 

135 
Garrick .... 121 
Genoa Inn .... 104 
German Restaurant .... 104 
Gimbel's .... 132 
Glaser's Cafe .... 176 
Golden Lily, The .... 253 
Golden Tumpkin Inn .... 247 
Gold's . ... 66, 106 
Goldstein's .... 175 
Gondola Inn .... 191 
Grand Terrace .... 252 
Grand Terrace Cafe .... 248 
Grayling's .... 150 
Greek Cafe .... 120 
Gypsy Tea Shop .... 135 
Harding's Colonial Room .... 73 
Harding's Grill .... 119 
Harvey's Fred .... 219 
Hawthorne Restaurant .... 240 
Heinly's Grill .... 215 
Henrici's .... 58 
Heev's .... 235 
Hillman's Cafeteria .... 230 
Holland Tea Room .... 194 
Homestead, The .... 236 
Homewood Restaurant .... 105 
Hotel Ambassabor .... 146 
Hotel Belmont .... 106 
Hotel Brevoort .... 31 
Hotel, Edgewater Beach .... 224 
Hotel Hyde Park .... 104 
Hotel La Salle, Blue Fountain Room 

.... 61 
Hotel Planter's .... 202 
Hotel Southmoor .... 247 



271 



Hungarian Restaurant .... 194 
Hutcheson's Chili Parlor .... 124 
Huyler's .... 144 
Hyde Park Hotel .... 104 
Idrott Swedish Co-Operative Cafe 

.... 180 
Ireland's Oyster House .... 68 
John Citro's .... 174 
Julien's .... 71 
K-9 Club .... 187 
Kau's .... 42 
King George's . . . . 2J5 
King Tut's Tomb .... 255 
King's .... 262 
Knickerbocker Cofifee Shop . . . . 

141 
Kranz's .... 230 
Kristensen .... 223 
L'Aiglon .... 63 
La Louisiane .... 38 
La Rosetta .... 185 
La Rue's Dining Room .... 189 
Lake Shore Drive Hotel .... 145 
Laura Jacobsen's .... 163 
Le Petit Gourmet .... 147 
Leighton Co-Operative Dairy 

Restaurant .... 204 
Leighton 's Restaurant .... 105 
Lenard's Restaurant .... 178 
Limehouse, The .... 248 
Lincoln Gardens Italian Restaurant 

.... 104 
Lincoln Park Refactory . ... 96 
Lincoln Tavern .... 260 
Lincoln Tavern Town Club . . . . 

247 
Lincoln Turner Hall Cafe . . . . 

179 
Lindy's .... Ill 
Little Bohemia .... 52 
Little Cozzi's .... 165 
Little Florence .... 166 



Little Garden, The .... 194 
Little Jack's .... 85 
Lobster Island Cafe .... 104 
Lott Hotels .... 105 
Lundgren's .... 265 
Mack's Club .... 243 
Madame Galli's .... 44 
Maillard's .... 155 
Maisonette Russe .... 92 
Manila Village Cafe .... 181 
Margherita Italian Restaurant .... 

184 
Marine Dining Room, Hotel Edge- 
water .... 247 
Marshall Field's .... 228 
Martin Restaurant .... 220 
Mauella Restaurant . . . . 115, 

174 
Maurice's .... 209 
Mendel's .... 231 
Merchandise Mart Restaurant .... 

87 
Milano Italian Restaurant .... 

105 
Miss Ellis Tea Shop .... 147 
Mitchell's .... 202 
Moraine Hotel .... 238 
Mrs. Shintani's .... 170 
Murphy's Restaurant .... 225 
Music Box .... 248 
Negri Italian Restaurant .... 103 
Nello's .... 122 
New College Inn .... 48, 246 
New Dells .... 259 
New Tivoli .... 210 
Nine Hundred North .... 141 
Northbrook Inn .... 260 
North Shore Hotel Coffee Shop 

.... 234 
North Star Inn .... 185 
Old Venice Cafe .... 191 
Old Town Coffee Room .... 121 

272 



180 East Delaware Restaurant . . . 

143 
Oriental Cafe .... 169 
Oriental Gardens .... 135 
Palmer House .... 152 
Panhellenic Restaurant .... 171 
Parker's .... 98 
Parkway Hotel .... 105 
Paul's .... 83 
Pete's Steaks .... 112 
Phalanstery, The .... 197 
Picardy Room .... 235 
Picadilly .... 156 
Pixley & Ehlers .... 203 
Polk Street Station Restaurant . . . 

220 
Poro Tea Room .... 253 
Potthaste's .... 103 
Purple Pup, The .... 257 
Quinn's Grill .... 215 
Rainbo Sea Food Grotto .... 80 
Rakilo's .... 202 
Randolph German Restaurant . . . 

129 
Ravenna Restaurant .... 184 
Red Star Inn .... 75 
Rendezvous Moderne .... 235 
Rickett's .... 105, 188 
Ritz Club .... 254 
Riviera Italian Restaurant . . . 

103 
Rococo House . ... 99 
Roma .... 117 
Round Table Inn .... 192 
Russian Workers' Co-Operative 

Restaurant .... 177 
Rutz's Co£fee Chop .... 212 
St. Clair Hotel .... 151 
St. Hubert's .... 34 
Sally's Waffle Shop .... 223 
Sauerman's .... 103 
Schlogl's .... 26 



Scudder's Sea Food Inn .... 116 
Seven Arts .... 186 
Shepard Tea Room .... 162 
Ship's Cafe .... 190 
Show Boat .... 248 
Skooglund Cafeteria .... 224 
Smidt's Restaurant . . . .263 
Southern Tea Shop .... 186, 192 
Spino's .... 174 
Steven's Building Restaurant .... 

230 
Stevens Hotel .... 163 
Stockyard's Inn . ... 69 
St©p and Shop .... 230 
Strulevitz Tea Room .... 174 
Studio Inn, The . . . .260 
Studio Tea Shop .... 216 
Subway Cafe .... 197 
Sunrise Sea Food Grotto ... 189 
Sunset, The .... 254 
Terrace Garden .... 134, 247 
Thompson's .... 133 
Three Sisters Tea Room .... 239 
Tip Top Inn .... 23 
Torino Italian Restaurant .... 

187 
TowerJ Tea Room .... 149 
Tower Town Tea Room .... 187 
Triangle .... 127 
Triangle Cafe .... 262 
Turkish Village Cafe . . . . 24g 
Vanity Fair .... 244 
Vassar House .... 148 
Venetian Room, Hotel Southmoor 

.... 247 
Vera Megowen's Tea Room 

235 
Vesuvio .... 150 
Via Lag© .... 248 
Victor House .... 196 
Villa Demetre . . . . 23S 
Vaia Spiro .... 104 

273 



Villa Venice .... 258 

Virginia Dining Room .... 196 

Vogue Cafe .... 249 

W-R Sandwich Shop .... 203 

Vagtayle's Waffle Shop .... 22 J 

Walgren's .... 205 

Walton Tea House .... 188 

Webster Hotel .... 105 

Weichmann & Gellert's .... 36 



Weiss .... 89 

Wildwood Inn .... 262 
Windsor Tea Room .... 239 
Woman's Exchange .... 142 
Woman's Exchange Cafeteria . 

234 
Won Kow .... 168 
Woods .... 144 



274 



THE 



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