Dining in Chicago

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LIBRARY OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

IN MEMORY OF

STEWART S. HOWE

JOURNALISM CLASS OF 1928

STEWART S. HOWE FOUNDATION

917.731
D84d

I . H . S .

DINING IN CHICAGO

THE JOHN DAY
INTIMATE GUIDES

DINING IN NEW YORK
By BJan James

ALL ABOUT NEW YORK
By Rian James

DINING IN CHICAGO
By John Drury

THE BON VOYAGE BOOK
By ''Old Salt"

Other volumes in preparation

DINING

IN
CHICAGO

by John Drury

with a foreword by

Carl Sandburg

and published by

The John Day Company

New York

COPYRIGHT, 193 I, BY JOHN DRURY

PRINTED IN THE U. S. A.

FOR THE JOHN DAY COMPANY, INC.

BY H. WOLFF, NEW YORK

TO MARION . . .

The Best Dam' Dinner Companion
In All Chicago

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

John Drury . . . first began his gastronomic adventures in this
life at Chicago, Illinois, on August 9, 1898 ... in school he was
terrible in arithmetic but talented in drawing . . . had to quit
high school to help lift the mortgage oflF the old homestead . . .
worked in factories, drug stores, stockrooms and department
stores . . . continued education in Lane Technical Night School,
studying English composition and French . . . remembers the
English composition but forgot the French . . . fired from his
job as clerk in a South Clark Street bookshop because the pro-
prietor caught him once too often reading Keats . . . worked on
a farm in the Illinois River valley and quit after a week because
the plow horses would stop in the middle of a furrow and look
at him contemptuously . . . later became clerk in book section
of Marshall Field department store ... at outbreak of World
War was refused admission to army and navy because of failure
to meet physical requirements . . . intent on wearing a uniform
(being Irish), he enlisted in the 11th Regiment, Illinois Na-
tional Guard, and helped to keep Chicago safe for Democracy
... in 1 9 1 8 went to New York City to live in Greenwich Vil-
lage . . . first contact with intimate side of restaurant life gained
while working as a bus boy in Child's, on Broadway, near Wall
Street . . . helped edit a literary magazine in the Village . . .
began to write free verse poetry — but nat because everybody
else was doing it . . . returned to Chicago and Marshall Field's
book section . . . reviewed books for Llewellyn Jones, of the

vii

Chicago Evening Post . , . went to Los Angeles in 1920 where
he made his first bow in journalism as copy boy on the Los
Angeles Record, having been hired by Ted Cook, of ''Cook-
Coos" fame . . . the third day on the job Ted made him a cub
reporter, giving him as his first assignment the duty of check-
ing on the price of eggs . . . two months later he was made
dramatic and motion picture editor of the Record . . . made
several expeditions across the border into Mexico, but not for
alcoholic purposes . . . after getting enough of the City of
Angels and Hollywood, he returned to Chicago, where he be-
came a police reporter on the City News Bureau ... his poetry
began to appear in the "little magazines that died to make verse
free" ... to New York again (1923) where, after John Farrar
gave him a free meal at the Yale Club, he shipped as a messman
(gastronomy, again) aboard a tramp freighter to the east coast
of South America, visiting Brazil and the Argentine pampas
. . . back to Chicago again and began reviewing books for Harry
Hansen, on the Chicago Daily News . . . another sea voyage
in 1925, this time to London . . . same year saw publication of
his first book, "Arclight Dusks," a volume of free verse poems
. . . joined reportorial staff of Chicago Daily News in 1927,
after which he covered many gang murders . . . second book,
"Chicago In Seven Days," appeared in 1928, and, since its print-
ing, he has become a sort of "unofficial guide" to the city . . .
last summer he made an expedition across the border to Canada,
for alcoholic purposes ... he smokes a pipe . . . has a talented
wife . . . and a dog . . . has never lectured to a woman's club
or over the radio ... his hobby is Chicago . . . Carl Sandburg
once wrote of him: "John Drury loves Chicago very much. It
is neither an ethereal nor an ephemeral love that John has for
the Windy City. John walks, rides and flies over it. He eats and
sleeps anywhere in it. A thousand cops know him. So do all the
reporters, and he never gets into trouble."

VUl

FOREWORD

On reading over the text of John Drury's book one is
not merely persuaded that Chicago is a place to stop for
more than a sandwich and a cuppa coffee. From page
to page he hammers home the evidence that cooking skill
and kitchen science has drifted to Chicago from the
continents of Asia, Europe, Africa and the archipelagoes
of the seven seas. The ancient declaration, "Man doth
not live by bread alone," serves as a literal and material-
istic text for Drury's rambles. The good eater who is
proud of his repertoire at the table, who is a little vain
about his talent at handling a knife and fork for the
guidance of victuals, must acknowledge that if he
can't find a place for performance — after listening to
Drury on when and where to go — something is wrong.

Of course there are a couple of million people in the
Windy City who never go into the general run of these
places. A single course of the food at some of the more
elaborate emporiums would be a tasty square meal for
many of these people.

There are, however, those who would like to eat first
hither and then yon every day in the week, with no two
days alike. Also there are the people who have drawn
extra pay or had a ship come home or made a killing in a

ix

crap game. Also there are the folks who get tired of the
home cooking, the delicatessen, the kitchenette, and
wish an evening of change. If any of these get sore at
Drury, that's ingratitude. Those who refuse to thank
him are ingrates who probably happen to be off their
feed, as the farmhands say.

Furthermore, there are the citizens like the present
writer who have a high batting average and fielding
average in the one- arm joints where the taxi drivers
mention *'rusta biff" knowing just whom they are kid-
ding. These citizens can enjoy reading about where to
eat and thereafter converse more intelligently about such
food establishments as have personality, savor, and savoir
faire.

Authorities in folk lore credit Chicago with the origin
of the tale of the two garbage wagon drivers stopping to
pass the time near a house into which had moved a new
family. The driver who had in his official capacity
served them that morning was asked what kind of people
they were. He replied, "I don't know. All I know is
they got swell swill."

Carl Sandburg

CONTENTS

Foreword byCARLSANDBURG ix

Hors d'oeuvre 5

An Old American Custom 11

An Old French Custom 19

Around the Town:

Thirty-three Gastronomical Locations ... 23

More Gastronomical Locations 103

Rialto Tables 107

Along the Avenue 137

Around the World 167

Dining in Bohemia 183

Americana 199

Among the Literati 207

Between Trains 217

Uptown and Northward 222

Shopper's Rest 227

Suburbia 233

Temples of the Sun-dodgers 242

The Great Black Way 251

Wide Open Spaces 257

Cover Charges and Minimum Charges . . . . 265

Tipping 267

Index 269

xi

DINING IN CHICAGO

An Intimate Guide

?

HORS D'OEUVRE

A Few Appetizing Words About the Public
Tables of the Town

If you think that Chicago, from a gourmet's point of
view, is nothing more than a maze of red-hot stands, chili
parlors, cafeterias, barbecue stalls, one-arm joints, chop
suey restaurants, counter lunch rooms and all other such
human filling stations, artistically embellished with bullet
holes, you're as mistaken as Columbus was when he
started out on his trip to India the wrong way.

Engage in an earnest trip of exploration about the
town and you will find, as with Old Chris, a whole new
world — a world of epicurean delights that you never
thought existed in the City of Winds. We will admit, of
course, that the human filling stations are here and in
abundance, too, just as they are in New York, New Or-
leans, or San Francisco; but Chicago, like these other
cities, can also boast of first-class restaurants that would
delight the heart and palate of the most fastidious and
cosmopolitan of gourmets.

There are many people, especially among those who go
frequently to London or Paris, who would laugh at the
idea of such a book as this. "What," we can hear them ex-
claiming, "dining in Chicago? Why, you canH dine in
Chicago. When I want to dine I go to Paris!" These well-
meaning but uninformed persons, it develops, possess a

5

very limited knowledge of the restaurants of Chicago and
of the table delicacies to be found in them.

It is for the benefit of such haughty innocents, both na-
tive and otherwise, that this book was written. We will
show them gastronomical locations that are high up on
the lists of all knowing epicures; we will point out aroma-
tic steak houses, boulevard cafes, foreign coffee houses,
hotel dining rooms, chop houses, sea food establishments,
roadhouses, tea rooms, bohemian haunts, weinstubes and
inns — all types and kinds of eating places where foods are
wholesome, inviting, novel and expertly prepared. Chi-
cago is full of them if you but know their names and ad-
dresses.

For in this very same city, you may sit with sultry-eyed
Arabs in one of their basement coffee houses and eat aris-
che mahshi, with baklawa and a demi-tasse of Turkish
coffee for dessert, while around you the swarthy descend-
ants of the Bedouins smoke those Oriental water-pipes
and argue politics in a strange tongue. Or you may prefer
to dine with actors and actresses who live at the exclusive
Blackstone Hotel just to say they are stopping there, but
who sneak off to a hole-in-the-wall tea room next door
where the meals are good — but inexpensive.

Similarly, on noisy Wells Street, at the west end of the
Loop, there is an old German restaurant where million-
aires, who can afford the most expensive of tenderloins,
come for Hamburger steak . . . On the other hand, the
most appetizing tenderloin steak we've ever tasted, in this
city where steaks come from, was in an obscure Rou-

6

manian restaurant among the suffocating tenements of
the west side "Valley."

You don't have to go to Prunier's in Paris for bouilla-
baisse— that famed Mediterranean fish stew. We have it
right here in Chicago — and as skillfully prepared and deli-
cious as that which they serve in Gay Paree. You will find
it on the menu of a dine-and-dance palace on the Rialto —
of all places — and cooked by a former Prunier chef. Nor
is it necessary to go to Paris for moules mariniere or es-
cargots bourguignonne, those other popular French deli-
cacies; a French restaurant in an old town house on the
near north side features these items for the knowing epi-
cure. Another "one flight up" restaurant has been offering
frogs' legs to Chicago for many years past.

Chicken bird's nest soup, that queer but tasty concoc-
tion made from the substance that certain Oriental birds
use for cementing their nests, awaits you in any of the
Chinese eating houses of "Chinatown" — as do chicken
chow mein subgum, fried fresh shrimps and kumquats.
Caruso's favorite spaghetti restaurant is still doing busi-
ness in a little brick house across the river on the near
north side, among frowning warehouses. And in a lovely
Colonial dining room in the Loop, where the waitresses
are pretty and college-bred and wear crinolines, you may
revel in the tastiest of corned beef and cabbage, that pop-
ular Irish-American dish.

* * * *

In a narrow, London-like side street, near the Federal

7

Building, you may step back into Thackeray's day by din-
ing in an old English inn, where pink-coated waiters bring
out thick mutton chops and plum pudding; and in the
very heart of the Theatre Sector your palate can feast on
Mexican chili and hot tamales. Here, too, is a hole-in-the-
wall eatery known from Broadway to Hollywood for its
steaks. It is patronized largely by theatrical stars. And
in a restaurant in South Michigan Boulevard you may
spend a night in New Orleans, feasting on pompano and
Creole gumbo and other New Orleans delicacies.

* * * jf-

You may celebrate the annual Colchester oyster feast,
which originated in early Norman days in Colchester,
England, to mark the official opening of the oyster eating
season, in the dining room of a Michigan Boulevard hotel;
you may also celebrate the Passover feast of the Jews by
much eating of matzos and gefiilte fish in a restaurant
patronized by Jewish intellectuals and writers in the west
side Jewish quarter.

* * ♦ ♦

Crepes Suzette as fine as any served in France are to be
had in Chicago; and those incomparable Italian special-
ties, veal scallopine and spaghetti with Parmesan cheese,
are items to be found on the menus of many an obscure
cafe in "Little Italy;" Swedish smorgasbords tempt you in
the eating houses of "Herring Lane," as the north side
Swedish district is called ; and the best waffles in town are
found in a little Uptown waffle shop.

* * it *

Not to forget those familiar American edibles — wheat
cakes, ham and eggs, pies, strawberry shortcake, red-hots,

8

Boston baked beans, roast turkey, sugar-cured ham and
baked Idaho potatoes — all these you may find most
appetizing in the many and varied white-tiled lunch
rooms of "Toothpick Row," in the middle of the Loop.
Excellent foods are also to be had in most of the restau-
rants located in railroad terminals and, for the shopper, in
State Street department stores.

sfr Sfr *t H"

up on the north side, in the old German quarter, a
Bavarian tavern features Sauerbraten and Kartoff elkloesse,
and German potato pancakes; all the waitresses are blonde
in a downtown restaurant, which, despite this, serves food
as good as any in Chicago; writers who are influencing
contemporary American literature foregather at a "round
table" in the shadow (and amid the noise) of the Wells
Street elevated; on Randolph Street is a restaurant
founded a few years after the Civil War and still serving
good food; the Mayor and other public oflScials often eat
in a west side store-front restaurant, turning their backs
on the dining rooms of the big hotels downtown.

* * * *

Russian goluptse, Bohemian roast goose with sauer-
kraut, Greek lamb chops, Polish beef filet a la Nelson with
mushrooms, Filipino adobo — foreign and exotic edibles of
all kinds you may eat in this "melting-pot" of the middle
west. Too, you may hobnob with the fashionables of the
town in smart boulevard cafes and hotel dining rooms;
with long-haired bohemians in the basement eating par-
lors of "Tower Town"; with actors and actresses on the
Rialto. You may brush shoulders with college boys and
boys who don't go to college in the Uptown district; with

9

distinguished university professors in Hyde Park; with
wealthy pork packers and sun-tanned cowpunchers of
the stockyards; and you may eat chitterhngs among the
happy-go-lucky colored folks in the ''Blackbelt."

* * * *

All these gastronomic adventures, and more, await you
in the Windy City and are yours if you have the experi-
mental instincts of the true epicure. In this book, of
course, we have made no attempt to list all the public
tables of Chicago, but only those that are outstanding by
reason of their cuisine, service, setting, prices, clientele
and traditions. The only thing we regret is not having had
the opportunity to appraise them according to that other
standard of the dear dead days — their cellars.

10

AN OLD AMERICAN CUSTOM

Comes now an authority on cocktails who deposes and
says that cocktail imbibing, that great American indoor
sport, is of Mexican origin. Discarding the domestic roos-
ter theory, Harry Craddock, of the Savoy Hotel, London
(known as the King of the Cocktail Shakers), offers as
proof of his contention the story of King Axolotl VIII of
Mexico and the wonderful potion.

Harry says that over a hundred years ago the old king,
tired of border skirmishes between his troops and the
American army, wanted to make peace before he kicked
the bucket. So he sent an invitation to the American gen-
eral (whose name Harry apparently doesn't know) to
come and talk over peace terms at the king's palace. A
banquet was spread, but before the guests started eating
the tortillas and hot tamales, a beautiful woman appeared
bearing a gold cup which contained a special potion
brewed by her own hands.

Immediately, there was embarrassment. Who should
drink first — the king or the American guest of honor?
The day and Mexican-American relations were saved,
however, when the beautiful woman took the first sip
herself. The American general, upon drinking, was loud

11

in his praises of both the drink and its purveyor. Being an
American, he wanted to know who the beautiful dame
was.

"That," said King Axolotl (try to pronounce his
name), "is my daughter, Coctel!"

"Great," said the American general. "I will see that her
name is honored forevermore by the American army."

Presumably, he asked for the recipe of the potion. Coc-
tel, of course, became "cocktail" after the drink had gone
the rounds of the army.

Another noted cocktail authority and shaker, Robert,
of the American Bar, Casino Municipal, Nice, offers the
rooster story as being the one most generally accepted.
This concerns an American innkeeper of the nineteenth
century who was proud of his daughter and of his big
prize-fighting rooster. One day the bird disappeared. He
offered his daughter in marriage to the man who would
find it. A young cavalry officer brought it back. The inn-
keeper was highly pleased. He brought out the materials
for drinks.

"His daughter," continues Robert, "either by accident
or from excitement at the sight of her future husband,
mixed whiskey, vermouth, bitters and ice together.
Everybody liked this delicious concoction so much that it
was christened 'cocktail* right on the spot." Robert goes
on to tell how the cavalry officer told his fellow officers
about it and soon the whole American army took it up.

That the cocktail was known over a century ago in
the United States, and that it was used at that time as a
vote getter, is shown in the following quotation which
Robert takes from The Balance, an American magazine,
under date of May 13, 1806: "Cocktail is a stimulating

12

liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and
bitters — it is vulgarly called bittered sling and is sup-
posed to be an excellent electioneering potion."

The American general who promised old King Axolotl
that his daughter's name would be honored henceforth
by the American army, seems to have made good his
promise, for the American army and the cocktail appear
to have been inseparable ever since. Everyone knows that
it was the officers of the A. E. F. in France who first in-
troduced the cocktail into Parisian cafe life. The "cock-
tail hour" is now a feature of daily routine among the
bons vivants of the French capital.

But whatever its origin, cocktail drinking is an old
American custom. It has been truly said that what wine is
to a Frenchman, whiskey to an Englishman, beer to a
German, the cocktail is to the American. It is always taken
before dinner, and in that respect is similar to the French
aperitif, or appetizer. Assuming, therefore, that you are
an American and that you believe in maintaining the cus-
toms and institutions of your forefathers, we herewith
submit a few cocktail recipes- — some old, some new —
which we guarantee will put you in the proper frame of
mind for an evening's dinner excursion abroad in the
town.

CHICAGO COCKTAIL: Fill the mixing glass half full of
broken ice, add one or two dashes of Angostura Bitters,
three dashes of Curasao and one-half a gill of Brandy. Stir
well, strain into cocktail glass; add an olive or cherry,
squeeze a lemon peel and drop it into the glass, and pour
a little Champagne on top. Before straining the mixture
into the cocktail glass, moisten the outside borders of the
glass with lemon juice and dip into pulverized sugar.

13

Robert, of the American Bar at Nice, and formerly of the
Embassy Club, London, vouches for the Chicago Cock-
tail— and you'll agree that his vouching is above question.

SUNSHINE COCKTAIL: To one-sixth gill of Old Tom Gin,
add one-sixth gill of French Vermouth, one-sixth gill of
Italian Vermouth, and two dashes of Orange Bitters. Stir
well, strain into cocktail glass, and squeeze lemon peel on
top. A favorite of the old Olympia Club in San Francisco
— and there's a reason.

THE MARTINI: Into a shaker half -filled with cracked ice,
pour two-thirds of a wine glass of Gordon Gin, one-half
wine glass Italian Vermouth, and add a dash of Orange
Bitters. Shake well, and serve with a piece of orange peel
or an olive, to each glass. An old standby — as good now as
it ever was.

THE STINGER: Simple as pie. To one-half Brandy, add one-
half Creme de Menthe, shake well and strain into cock-
tail glass — which is just the way they used to make them
in days of old.

THE TICONDEROGA: To one jigger of Dubonnet, add a
dash of Italian Vermouth, a dash of Grenadine and
just a touch of lemon. Emil Rutz, manager of the extinct
Vogelsang's, concocted this — and the Loophounds liked it.

HORSE'S NECK: Into a large bar glass containing a few lumps
of ice, insert the spiral of a lemon peel so that one end
hangs over the rim; add one teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, one pony of Gin, and fill glass with ginger ale. Uncle
Charley ought to go for this old-timer in a big way.

ARMOUR COCKTAIL: Into a mixing glass half -filled with

14

shaved ice, pour half a jigger of Sherry, half a jigger of
Italian Vermouth, three dashes of Orange Bitters; mix
well, strain into cocktail glasses and add a piece of orange
peel. Charlie Roe and Jim Schwenck, those two good mix-
ers, in their home bartender's book, tell us that people
"Back-o'-the-Yards" used to drink this before breakfast
and then go out and beat up a policeman, but we think it's
nothing more than a bracer for old ladies.

THE BRONX: To one- third Gin, add one- third French Ver-
mouth, one-third Italian Vermouth, and the juice of a
quarter of an orange. Ice, shake well, and then note the
results upon imbibing.

THE MISSION: To two-thirds Gordon Gin, add one-third
French Vermouth; stir well and strain into cocktail glass
into which a stuffed olive has been placed. This was a
great attraction to the boys at the old Mission Bar in West
Madison Street before Mr. Volstead appeared.

THE GARNET: Half fill shaker with chipped ice; to one
part Gin, add three parts juice of a blood orange, a dash
of lemon and a dash of maple syrup; shake as usual, strain
into cocktail glass . . . and hey! hey! The favorite concoc-
tion of the painter, Fred Biesel — very colorful and exotic.

CLOVER CLUB SPECIAL: Into a shaker half -filled with
cracked ice, pour three parts Vicker's London Dry, one
part fresh cream, one part Grenadine; shake well and
serve in sauterne glasses. Bertani, former head waiter, made
the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec famous with this cock-
tail— which is easy to understand after tasting it.

C AND C: To one-half Brandy, add one-half Cointreau. No
limes and don't shake . . . and you'll soon think you are
aboard a Cunarder, whence it gets its name.

15

THE YEGG: To one-third Brandy, add two-thirds Port
Wine and the yolk of an egg. Sweeten with powdered
sugar or syrup. "This baby will 'hold you up' no matter
where you are going," says Judge, Jr.

SIMPLE MANHATTAN; To two parts Rye Whiskey, add
one part Italian Vermouth; shake well with fine ice and
strain into cocktail glasses. As old as the hills and still in
vogue.

THE GILBERT: To one jigger of Gordon Gin, add one-half
jigger of French Vermouth and one-half jigger of Italian
Vermouth, a touch of Absinthe, and strain into cocktail
glass. Concocted by Paul Gilbert, of the Chicago Evening
Post, and a favorite of Ring Lardner, when both rested
their weary reportorial feet on the brass rail at Stillson's.

OLD-FASHIONED COCKTAIL: To one glass of Canadian
Club Whiskey, add four dashes of Angostura Bitters, one
lump of ice, one tablespoonful of granulated sugar, and
stir until sugar is dissolved. Serve with a strip of fresh
pineapple, a slice of orange, and a Maraschino cherry.

THE PINK LADY: To one jigger of Gin, add orange syrup to
color, a dash of Apollinaris, and one half a lime. Ice, stir
well, and serve. Another Paul Gilbert creation, now be-
come a standard cocktail. Said to be Walter Winchell's
favorite.

SILVER FIZZ: One part Gordon Gin, the white of one egg,
one-half teaspoonful of powdered sugar (or, to taste),
cracked ice, and enough seltzer. Serve in a tall glass. A
GOLDEN FIZZ is made the same way, substituting the
yolk of an egg for the egg white. First rate for a sultry
evening.

16

THE SIDE CAR: To two-thirds Brandy, add one-third Coin-
treau, and one-half Hme juice . . . and your dinner will be
topped off nicely.

ORANGE BRULOT: Take an orange, roll it well on all sides
with considerable pressure, make two circular incisions in
skin midway between stem and navel — clear around cir-
cumference— leaving a strip one-half inch wide in the
middle. Loosen skin (all excepting middle strip) with end
of a spoon. Push back skin carefully and turn inside out,
so that "cups" are formed at both ends of orange. Place
a cube of sugar in upright cup, pour into it two table-
spoons of Brandy or Whiskey, touch a lighted match to
it, and stir until sugar is melted in blue flame. Then drink
hot . . . and offer a toast to Ferdinand Alciatore, of the
famed La Louisiane restaurant in New Orleans, where this
delicious after-dinner cordial originated.

WHISKEY SOUR: To one jigger of Scotch Whiskey, add the
juice of half a lemon, one teaspoonful of granulated sugar
and a twist of lemon peel. Something for the morning
after.

THE SWISSESS: To one glass of Absinthe, add one teaspoon-
ful of Anisette Syrup, and the white of one egg. Shake
well together, strain into a small wine glass, add a dash
of seltzer, and serve. Another swell morning after pick-
me-up.

And Finally

THE BROMO SELTZER: Into a large tumbler, put one ta-
blespoonful of Bromo Seltzer; fill tumbler with soda, then
pour into another tumbler. Repeat this twice, and rapidly,
until powder is dissolved, and drink while fizzing.

17

AN OLD FRENCH CUSTOM
— And Another Matter

Since we are dealing with the subject of civiHzed restau-
rants for civihzed individuals — and by civilized individ-
uals we mean those persons who are aware, cultured, cos-
mopolitan, and gay when gayety is in order (such as your-
self, or else why would you be reading a book on dining)
— we come now to an old French custom practised gen-
erally by civilized people throughout the world in con-
nection with the art of dining — namely, wine drinking.

But don't get excited! We're not going to let the cat
out of the bag. The restaurants included in this book have
all heard of prohibition and their proprietors conduct
themselves accordingly. Of course, we're not denying
that wine and other alcoholic goods are to be found in
Chicago. Good heavens, no! What do you suppose we've
had all the shootin' fer?

With many obscure little restaurants and other similar
places all over town, and some not so obscure, that have
about as much respect for the Eighteenth Amendment as
the eminent Mr. Capone has, it is certain that you ought
to get a wee bit here and there. But we're sorry we can-
not help you out on that score. All we can do is to advise
you to use your own resources, ask around a bit — and
smoke a Murad if you get turned down. But try again

19

some other place. If unsuccessful otherwise, you ought
at least to find Dago Red.

In case you're more fortunate, however, and come
upon a wide assortment of table wines, and you wonder
why so many different kinds are manufactured, we shall
take on the role of sommelier, as the French call a wine
waiter, for the nonce, and try to point out the various
kinds of wines to drink at mealtime. Remember, we said
"for the nonce," which relieves us of any implication of
pretending to be an expert on the subject. But we have
studied the matter somewhat, or else how could we
a-noncing go?

Brillat-Savarin, prince of epicures, says that wine, "the
most pleasant of drinks, whether we owe it to Noah, who
planted the vine, or whether it is due to Bacchus, who
squeezed out the juice of the grape, dates from the in-
fancy of the world." In modern times, there are more var-
ieties of wines than Heinz's products, and the secret of
pleasurable wine drinking is in knowing what vintages
to sip with what courses. Herewith we print a list of the
wines most commonly used, and the courses for which
they are intended.

Wiih MORS D'OEUVRES, OYSTERS, FISH

The light foods used for appetizers require light thin wines
— in other words, white wines. You may make your choice
of a number of these wines. For example:

Graves

(Fairly dry and thin)

Barsac

(Intermediate, having more

flavor)

Chablis

(Dry and thin)

20

Montrachet

(Said to be the best of all

white wines)

Riesling

(A popular Alsatian wine)

Pouilly

(Thin and somewhat dry)

Meursault

(Quite dry)

With THE MEAT COURSE

Here we come to the red wines — a Bordeaux, a Burgundy
or a Rhone. Bordeaux wines are otherwise known as
"clarets."

Saint-Julien (A popular Bordeaux red wine)

Medoc (Fruity and generous)

Saint-Emilion (Excellent, if sufficiently old)
Chateau Larose (Light and fruity)
Hermitage (A strong C6te-du-Rh6ne wine)

Anjou (Rich, and sweet; from the Loire

Valley)
Pauillac (Heavy, generous, and fruity)

Chambertin (One of the great red Burgundies)

Beaujolais (Another Burgundy, light and

fruity)

With GAME, ROASTS, AND MEATS OF HIGH FLAVOR
A fine old chateau wine from the Bordeaux region should
accompany your venison or buffalo. Chateau Lafite and
Chateau Margaux are especially recommended — if you can
get them. If not, try some high-grade Burgundy.

With DESSERT

Chateau d'Yquem (Rich and sweet and grand)

With CHEESE

Connoisseurs will always demand a Burgundy of good
vintage.

21

With ?ASTKY

Such Sauternes as Chateau Yquem, Suduiraut, or Coutet;
or a Muscat from Tunis; or a Champagne may be used
with sweet desserts.

In the event that you are confused by all these names,
and have no time to find out what they mean, you may
simplify matters by ordering a few of the wines which
are suitable for the entire meal. These vintages are found
mainly in the white wines, such as Riesling, Barsac, or
white Bordeaux. Barsac is a good medium wine for a
medium price and may be chosen for all practical pur-
poses. Of course, if the cards are stacked against you and
you have exhausted your Murads in going about, you may
have to be satisfied with plain ordinary Dago Red. And
remember that Dago Red, being a very cheap concoction
parading under the name of wine, is of high alcoholic
content. So watch your step and don't imbibe too much.

22

AROUND THE TOWN

Thirty-three Gastronomical Locations
For Epicures and Others

TIP TOP INN
A. HieronymuSy Host

Frankfort-on-the-Main, in southeastern Prussia, goes
down in history as the birthplace of two great men — J.
Von Goethe, the poet, and A. Hieronymus, the host. For
what Goethe is to Kterature, Hieronymus is to epicurean-
ism in Chicago. We know of no other caterer in Chicago
who more closely approaches the creative artist than this
elderly, distinguished founder and host of the historic
Tip Top Inn. Where else can you find a restaurant offer-
ing 109 specialites de la maison — original viands created
by Mr. Hieronymus and his chefs. Turn to the back page
of his large dinner menu and see them listed! If this isn't
proof that Mr. A. Hieronymus is as great an artist in
cookery as was Mr. J. Goethe in iambs, then we'll m.ake a
meal oflf our words. But "the proof of the pudding is in
the eating." And so it is. You must eat some of these
highly original dishes for verification of mine host's repu-
tation in cookery.

Let us point out a few of them. Among the oysters (in
season) are Baked Rockaways a la Hieronymus — a dish
nothing short of marvelous. So also is the shore stew, con-
sisting of lobsters, oysters, and shrimps. In the relish col-

23

umn there are Lobster Filets Cardinal, Crabmeat Grace
Louise, and English celery with anchovies — all delicacies
that live up to the word "relish." Essence of tomato with
fresh crab and whipped cream heads the list of soups en
tasse, with mousse of new peas a la Pullman as our second
choice.

Getting down to fish and shell fish, we know of noth-
ing more succulent than the stuffed whitefish with crab-
meat or the stufifed lobster in shell a la Pullman. As for
entrees, you will not be making a mistake in ordering
Boned Grilled Chicken Strasbourg, as thrilling as an air-
plane ride (but not so uncertain), or in ordering the
doebird en casserole (for two) , which is worth the $4.00
you pay for it.

Not to overlook chafing dishes, mine host offers Mallard
Duck a la Hieronymus (in season) , for which we would
gladly pay twice the $5.50 that he modestly charges for
it; Imperial Sirloin Steak, a sirloin like none other in Chi-
cago; and Chicken Flakes Kingsbury, a dish that is poetry
to the palate. And there are other chafing dishes too.
Among the salads is StuflFed Pear Tip Top; among the des-
serts are Mussolini Slice, Colonial cup and Omelette Glace
Surprise; and in the cheeses we suggest Camembert with
Romaine and Oriental dressing. Special Tip Top drip
coffee is another creation of the house that you shouldn't
miss.

These delightful dishes, which make the Tip Top Inn
an epicure's paradise, were not created overnight. No,
they are the result of more than thirty years experience on
the part of Mr. Hieronymus in watching over the kitch-
ens of the Tip Top Inn. These specialties have made it a
landmark of the town, as much an institution as are those

24

other familiar landmarks, Marshall Field & Company
and the Stockyards.

Here is what Wallace Rice wrote about the Tip Top
Inn in his chapter on Chicago hotels and restaurants, ap-
pearing in ''Chicago and Its Makers," by Paul Gilbert and
Charles Lee Bryson: ''Especially worthy of note because
it has survived happily and prosperously into the living
present is the Tip Top Inn, conducted for many years by
Adolph Hieronymus on the uppermost floors of the Pull-
man Building. Originally known as the Albion Cafe, it
was taken over in 1893 by its present proprietor, who was
an apprentice under two of the greatest chefs the city has
known, William Thomann, of the Tremont House, and
Joseph Seil, of the Palmer House."

During its career, the Tip Top Inn has been the gath-
ering-place of many of the first families of Chicago as
well as of notables from the stage, opera and music world.
Here came such world-famed actors and actresses of the
past as Lillian Russell, Richard Mansfield, Sir Forbes
Robertson, Anna Held, and Robert Mantell — and among
the living, George M. Cohan, DeWolf Hopper, Blanche
Ring and Richard Carle. The literary critics — Floyd Dell,
Harry Hansen, and the late Keith Preston — came here too.

At the present time, everybody who is anybody in
Chicago has dined at least once in the Tip Top ; but it is
a particular favorite with such diners-out as Ashton
Stevens, the drama critic, and his actress-wife, Katherine
Krug; Arthur Bissel, vice-president of Lyon & Healy
Company; Fanny Butcher, literary editor of the Chicago
Tribune; Frederick Stock and Eric De Lamarter, the
Chicago Symphony Orchestra conductors ; James Keeley,
official of the Pullman Company; Richard ("Riq") At-

25

water, columnist of The Chicagoan; and Colonel A. A.
Sprague, the civic leader.

One of the reasons why these interesting people come
here is found in the many delightful dining rooms of the
Tip Top Inn — the Dickens Room, like an old English
inn, with a beamed ceiling, fireplace and sporting prints
and portraits of Pickwick, Sam Weller and other familiar
Dickens characters hanging about the walls; the Italian
Room, quiet, elegant and Neapolitan; the Nursery, with
its Mother Goose nursery rhymes; and the Black Cat
Room, with its whimsical feline motifs. And in two of
these rooms there is music from stringed orchestras. Serv-
ice at the hands of polite colored waiters is perfection.

By all means don't miss the Tip Top Inn. And the view
from the windows overlooking Chicago's lake front is
grand.

The Tip Top Inn American

Michigan Boulevard at Adams

Open daily and Sundays, 11:30 AM, to 10:00 P.M.

A la carte and table d^hote luncheons in all rooms. Table
d'hote dinner in Black Cat Room, $1.00. Both a la carte
and table d'hote dinners in other rooms. Prices reasonable.
Maitre d'hotel: Adolph Hierony^nus

SCHLOGL'S

Meet the Literary Light si

Robert J. Casey, newspaperman, explorer, humorist and

26

mystery-story writer, has his nose buried deep in a Ger-
man apple pancake as big as an elephant's ear; Lew Sar-
ett, poet, sturdy woodsman and Indian authority, is
making short work of the Southern hash; Henry Justin
Smith, managing editor of the Chicago Daily News and
author of '^Deadlines" and other novels of newspaper
life, prefers two boiled Q^^s^ toast and jelly; Vincent
Starrett, the handsome bibliophile and essayist, obviously
likes his Southern ham with corn fritters, while Howard
Vincent O'Brien, literary critic and novelist, goes in for
ham and eggs; but big Gene Morgan, the columnist,
swears by the corned-beef hash with poached t^g.

See them eating — ^the literary lights of Chicago. It is
Saturday noon at Schlogl's. They are crowded about the
big round walnut table in the right-hand corner — talk-
ing, laughing, joking and shouting "Hey, Richard!"
whenever the waiter is needed. Women are forbidden
here. Therefore, male camaraderie prevails, the atmos-
phere is thick with smoke from many a cigar and pipe,
everything is informal, diners take their time and tell
stories, and the Hamburger steaks and Wiener Schnitzel
are plentiful and appetizing.

Other regulars who come to the "round table" — al-
though, of course, not all at any one time — include John
T. Frederick, novelist and editor of The Midland maga-
zine; Dr. Morris Fishbein, author of "Medical Follies;"
S. L. Huntley, writer, epicure, and creator of the popular
comic strip, "Mescal Ike;" the drama critics: Lloyd
Lewis, of the Daily News; Gail Borden, of the Times;
and Fritz Blocki, of the American; Charles Layng, short-
story writer and globe-trotter; Phil R. Davis, lawyer,
Loophound, and sometime poet; Jack Brady, "the public-

27

itor;" Hal O'Flaherty, foreign news editor of the Chi-
cago Daily News; Paul Leach, political writer and author
of "That Man Dawes;*' George Schneider, lawyer and
bibliophile; Le Roy T. Goble, the advertising man and
connoisseur of the arts; and the Midweek magazine
group: Robert D. Andrews, editor, and two of his star
contributors. Sterling North and Upton Terrell.

What the Mitre tavern in Fleet Street was to the
writers of Dr. Samuel Johnson's day, Schlogl's is to the
scribes of Chicago's ^'Newspaper Row" at the present
time. Also, it is one of the oldest restaurants in town,
having been founded here in 1879 by Joseph Schlogl as
a combined restaurant and weinstube, or wine-room.
The interior is the same as on the day it was first opened,
only the ornate tin ceiling, the walls and the large oil
paintings depicting monks drinking wine in old cellars
have become a bit musty and smoky with age — which is
appropriate. The walnut tables, walnut panelling and
walnut service bar are kept well-polished by Richard and
his two assistant waiters, Charley and August.

Schlogl's had its beginnings as a literary lounge in the
days when Carl Sandburg, Sherwood Anderson, Ben
Hecht, Robert Herrick, Edgar Lee Masters and Maxwell
Bodenheim foregathered here. Others came after them
— Bart Cormack, playwright and author of *'The
Racket;" J. P. McEvoy, of 'The Potters" fame; Pascal
Covici, the publisher; Charles Mac Arthur, who wrote
"The Front Page" with Ben Hecht; Clarence Darrow,
attorney and writer; John V. A. Weaver, author of *Tn
American;" Harry Hansen, the literary critic; John
Gunther, foreign news correspondent and novelist; J.
U. Nicolson, author of "The King of the Black Isles;"

28

{

the drama critics, Ashton Stevens and Charles ColHns;
Gene Markey, man of letters and bon vivant; Robert
Morss Lovett, of the New Ke public staflf; James Weber
Linn, columnist; Mitchell Dawson, poet and lawyer; Ir-
win St. John Tucker, poet and rector of Chicago's **poet's
church;" Kurt M. Stein, who writes in the German-
American dialect; Edward Price Bell, dean of foreign
correspondents of the CJoicago Daily News; Don Lawder,
now of the New Yorker; Sam Putnam, literary critic;
W. A. S. Douglass, contributor to the American Mer-
cury; Junius B. Wood, the foreign correspondent; and
Horace Bridges, the essayist.

Since we seem to be doing nothing but listing names,
we might just as well go all the way and put in the names
of other well-known writers who have visited and dined
here — ^Witter Bynner, Heywood Broun, Alfred Har-
court, Donald Ogden Stewart, E. Haldeman-Julius, Paul
H. De Kruif, Upton Sinclair, Bobby Edwards, William
McFee, Sinclair Lewis, Konrad Bercovici, Arthur Bris-
bane, William Allen White, D. W. Griffith, Gilbert Seldes,
Horace Liveright, Louis Untermeyer, Jay G. Sigmund,
Nelson Antrim Crawford, and the English visitors, — Re-
becca West, Hamilton Fyfe, Ford Madox Ford, Francis
Brett Young, E. O. Hoppe, and Brig. Gen. Edward L.
Spears.

You will find the autographs of all these literary no-
tables in what has become known as "Richard's Book"
— a copy of "Midwest Portraits," containing literary
recollections of the Schlogl gang, written by Harry Han-
sen and presented by him to Richard Schneider, who
waits on the "round table." No other restaurant in the
world boasts a book like this, wherein is described the

29

restaurant itself, and the people who eat in it, and having
in its end sheets the autographs of those written about.

Naturally, the "Who's Who" of the American literary
world would not come here unless the cuisine were such
as to meet the approval of fastidious men of letters. This
place serves food that the most cosmopolitan of epicures
would revel in. The Stewed Chicken a la Schlogl can be
gotten nowhere else. MilHonaires who can afford sirloins
and tenderloins come here for Hamburger steak, which
is fried in butter and prepared as only Chef Paul Weber,
who has been here for thirty years, knows how to pre-
pare it. The steaks and chops demand more than just
this mere listing of them. There is also savory Wiener
Schnitzel and Hasenpfeflfer, roast young duck, and bouil-
labaisse. Too, the Schlogl pancake is deserving of a chap-
ter to itself.

When accompanied by a lady, you eat upstairs in an
old dining room, where the ceiling is cracked, the wall-
paper is beginning to peel in places and warmth in winter
is provided by an old coal stove. All is atmospheric and
thrillingly ancient — except George Kling, who has a
youthful alertness in seeing to the cuUnary needs of the
distinguished ladies and gentlemen at his tables.

You haven't dined in Chicago unless you've eaten at
least once in this historic restaurant. If you're in any
way literary, you are probably on your way over there
by now.

SchlogVs German- American

37 North Wells Street

Open for luncheon and dinner (closed on Sunday)

30

A la carte only — and expensive, but worth it
Maitre d*hotel: Richard Schneider

THE BREVOORT

^^Famous For Food''

Breast of Guinea hen! What an exquisite flutter of the
palate as we write those words. What thoughts at men-
tion of this dish — of Johnny Bartsch, oldest of the Bre-
voort waiters, bringing the generous portion under glass,
(which always reminds us of the wax flowers under glass
in grandmother's Victorian sitting room — but only as
far as the glass is concerned) ; of the savory white flesh,
with just the slightest flavor of game; and of the ap-
petizing corn fritters, fresh mushrooms and sweet bit
of ham that come with it. We'll wager our last dime that
nowhere in the middle west can you get a better breast
of Guinea hen than in the main dining room of the Bre-
voort Hotel in Chicago.

Many are the notables who have partaken of the Bre-
voort's Guinea hen. Trixie Friganza, the actress, always
visits the Brevoort when in town, and always orders
Guinea hen; it Is also a favorite dish of Charles S. Deneen,
former senator of Illinois, and Len Small, former gover-
nor of the state — both of whom are habitues of the din-
ing room. There are many other bigwigs who are Guinea
hen addicts, so many that Charles Sandrock, maitre
d'hotel here for seventeen years, cannot remember them
all.

31

But don't get the impression that Guinea hen is the
Brevoort's only specialty. Other foods are here in abun-
dance. As a matter of fact, the Brevoort occupies about
the same position among local gourmets as does the his-
toric Hotel Brevoort dining room in New York City
among gourmets of that metropolis. Chicago's Brevoort
breathes an atmosphere of the unhurried past like its
eastern sister — of leisurely dining, good fellowship, and
an excellent cuisine. The Brevoort has been catering to
Chicago for over a quarter of a century; it is the same
today as it was in the days of heavy beards and bustles.
The main dining room is still located in the basement and
still has a Victorian air about it; and Henry, the chef,
is still here, as well as Charley Sandrock, Johnny Bartsch
and many of the other waiters, whose names are familiar
to scores of prominent people about town.

Nowhere have we found more truthful advertising
than in the sign over the old Brevoort entrance, *Tamous
For Food." As a hotel, the Brevoort is just another hotel,
but as a house of food we oflfer it the silver loving cup.
What a tantalizing array of other Brevoort specialties
besides Guinea hen — imported Irish bacon and fried ap-
ples, with the bacon really coming from Limerick;
Special Sirloin Steak a la Chas. S., featuring a delightful
garniture that Charley Sandrock invented himself;
broiled baby lobsters; Squab en Casserole a la Parisienne;
and broiled mushrooms on toast. We could name half a
dozen other specialties, but these will give you an idea
of what this house offers. On the a la carte menu, which
is as inclusive as any in town, you'll also find many Ger-
man and French dishes, and choice sea foods and game in
season.

32

Luncheon is the high moment in the Brevoort day. The
basement dining room is crowded with sleek, well-fed
brokers, and aged, white-haired financiers from the
Board of Trade and the La Salle Street financial district,
which are just around the corner from the Brevoort.
The Coffee Grill in the lobby upstairs is alive with the
conversation of red-faced politicians and prominent of-
ficials from the City Hall, nearby; and the famous
old "Round Bar" at the rear of the lobby, done in the
manner of a luxurious Moorish temple (red lamps and
Saracenic scroll work and all) , formerly the Hannah
& Hogg Bar, is serving its delicious plate luncheons
to lawyers, advertising men and newspaper men. In all
of these places, the food purveyed comes from the one
kitchen and Chef Henry Friedenberg watches over that
kitchen like a hawk.

The Brevoort Hotel is situated in the center of the
Loop and is convenient to all the more important hostel-
ries of the downtown district proper. We advise you not
to miss the Brevoort if you want food fit for a king, and
want it amid restful surroundings and at the hands of
waiters as civil and courteous as any to be found in the
best Parisian cafe.

The Brevoort American

120 West Madison Street

Coffee Grill open from 8 :30 A. M. until midnight. Main
dining room open for luncheon and dinner (Sundays in-
cluded) . "Rotmd Bar" for luncheon only.

The a la carte is average in price. Table d'hote dinners,
$1,25 and $1J5

Mattre d'hotel: Charles Sandrock

33

ST. HUBERT'S

Merrie England in the Loop

Thick English mutton chops and plum pudding await you
in delightful old St. Hubert's English Grill. This little
bit of England in the Loop, tucked away at the foot of
the towering Union League Club, is located happily on
narrow, London-like Federal Street, and on a foggy day
you'd think you were in some by-street just o£F Piccadilly
Circus. Here, polite pink-coated English waiters bring
you a mutton chop so thick and juicy that its taste lingers
in your mouth for days. Dr. Sam Johnson might utter
an immortal bon mot over it. As for the plum pudding,
Mr. Dawell, the proprietor, is apologetic. "We haven't
the brandy so necessary in making it," he explains wist-
fully. But his cooks do an excellent job of it with what
materials they have.

Here is the atmosphere of an old English inn such as
you read about in Thackeray or Dickens. The ceiling is
low and beamed; long English clay pipes, smoked by
Chicago celebrities who dine here, hang from the beams;
old English sporting prints decorate the rough stone
walls; the atmosphere is quiet and homey and heavy
with smoke; the fire-place puts you in a mood of ease
and relaxation. Upstairs, where you dine when accompan-
ied by a woman, framed pictures of British royalty
abound and the plate-rail is filled with English crockery
and other mementos of British life.

Mr. Da well's guest book shows visitors from all over

34

the globe — Rio, Singapore, Paris, Scotland. Henry Irving,
Ellen Terry, William Faversham and other Anglo-Amer-
ican theatrical stars have eaten here in the past, as well
as Sir Thomas Lipton and Charles Dickens, Jr., son of
the novelist. This is one of the favorite dining places of
those two noted Union Leaguers, General Charles Gates
Dawes and Frank O. Lowden, former governor of Il-
linois.

The late John J. Mitchell, the banker, came in often;
even "Big Bill" Thompson, former mayor of Chicago,
has reveled in English mutton chops here on a number
of occasions; Clarence Darrow, the great criminal attor-
ney and liberal, had his wedding breakfast in St. Hubert's
many years ago; Richard Henry Little, conductor of the
popular "Line O' Type Or Two" column in the Chicago
Tribune, and his wife, Shelby Little, the authoress, are
frequent visitors. St. Hubert's has even made its way into
contemporary fiction, being described in Mary Plum's
"The Strange Death of Judge McFarlane" and in John
Gunther's "The Red Pavilion" and a number of other
novels.

Try St. Hubert's. We know of no more charming
and pleasant adventure in town than a dinner of mut-
ton chops in this picturesque and authentic old inn. You'll
like the London accent of the waiters and their inborn
courtesy. And Mr. Dawell, who was born in a little town
in Illinois, is our idea of a perfect host.

S^. Hubert's Old English Grill English

316 Federal Street

Dinner a la carte only — and rather expensive. Business
men's table d'hote luncheon.

35

open until 9 P. M.

Mattre d'hotel: Charles A. Dawell

WIECHMANN & GELLERT'S

Bear, Caribou, and Moose

It's a lucky thing that nature up in the New Brunswick
country in Canada is ever bountiful and replenishes her
woods and streams with new wild life each year, for if
this were not the case Herman Wiechmann would have
cleaned out the country long ago in supplying Chicago-
ans with the popular game dishes — bear, caribou, and
moose. Annually, for thirty years, he's been going there
with his rifle and returning home with a loaded bag, so
to speak. As a result, his restaurant at the south end of
the Loop is a rendezvous for all lovers of venison and
other game dishes.

And what a restaurant it is! You know that game is
featured here as soon as you step inside, for the walls
are decorated with sprig-like antlers and other trophies
of the hunt. And Herman Wiechmann did not buy
them, either; each antler comes from a deer that he
brought down with his own hands in the north country.
The walls are hung with big black turtle shells, indicat-
ing that this is a place of sea foods too. But the feature
that strikes you most in this South Wabash Avenue
restaurant is its old-style atmosphere, reminiscent of a
dining room of the nineties — long, rangy, and with a
highly ornate Victorian ceiling.

36

This ceiling, by the way, is of interest to old-timers
because it is all that is left of the famed Kuntz-Remmler
restaurant, which occupied the premises before Wiech-
mann & Gellert took it over six years ago. "Honest John"
Kuntz, who died in 1928, attracted many prominent
people to his place, among them Theodore Roosevelt, En-
rico Caruso, John Drew and John L. Sullivan. Harry
Hansen, the literary critic, writes of John Kuntz's place:
**In my college days, 1905-1909, I often ate a fine steak
at Kuntz-Remmler*s. They served a grand steak for fifty
cents, with potatoes and coffee. We paid twenty-five at
the University Commons, so you can see that we were
lavish."

Meanwhile, over in the Standard Club Building in
South Dearborn Street, Wiechmann & Gellert 's was mak-
ing history and vying with the Kuntz-Remmler establish-
ment in catering to the epicures of the city. There came
venerable judges from the United States district courts
in the Federal Building nearby — Judge Kenesaw Moun-
tain Landis, Judge James Wilkerson, Judge Carpenter,
and such other celebrities as Charles ("Old Roman")
Comiskey, Ban Johnson, Armour, Swift, and many of
the mayors of the city. Wiechmann & Gellert were in
this location for twenty years and when the old club
building was torn down to make way for a new one, the
restaurant moved over to Wabash Avenue and took over
the vacant Kuntz-Remmler premises.

Today, Wiechmann & Gellert's is the most popular
restaurant in the city for game. Sea foods and German
dishes are also featured. What a treat to observe the wait-
ers hurrying back and forth among the tables with all
the fish and game — turtle soup, prepared from green

37

turtles (shipped alive from Louis Bay, Mississippi) , and
with a dash of sherry wine in it; partridges; bass and
stuffed lobsters; perhaps a saddle of venison requiring
two waiters to carry it; bear meat; opossums, raccoons,
beaver, Alaska mountain goat and Watertown goose.
The game, of course, is served only in season. Among the
German dishes, the pork shanks and sauerkraut and the
Beef a la mode with potato pancake are outstanding for
their palatableness.

Wiecbmann & Gellert German- American

424 South Wabash Avenue

Open for luncheon and dinner

Both table d'hote and a la carte — and reasonable

Mattre d'hotel: Herman Wiechmann

LA LOUISIANE

A Night In New Orleans

Gaston Alciatore, handsome as a collar ad, and with the
ends of his mustache waxed, animatedly welcoming new
arrivals with typical French — or is it Southern? — cordial-
ity; French waiters lighting silvery alcohol lamps to make
crepes Suzette; murals of scenes in the old French quarter
of New Orleans decorating the walls; Ferdinand Alci-
atore, father of Gaston, looking down benevolently from
an oil painting to the left of the entrance; diners gazing

38

over the list of Creole hors d'oeuvres, trying to decide be-
tween salade d'anchoix or escargots a la bourguignonne;
everybody, however, ordering Creole gumbo and that
fish which is New Orleans' gift to the world's edibles,
pompano papillotte.

Truthfully, here is a night in old New Orleans! Atmos-
phere, food, the service and the waiters, and Gaston him-
self, give you the impression of dining in that famed
rendezvous of New Orleans' gourmets. La Louisiane,
where Gaston's father once was proprietor. As a matter
of fact, the interior of the Chicago restaurant is an exact
replica of the establishment in the Mardi Gras city. Or
you could easily imagine that you were eating in the par-
ent restaurant of both, Antoine's, one of the oldest and
most noted restaurants in America. Antoine's was
founded by Antoine Alciatore, grandfather of Gaston.
Julian Street, writing in the Saturday Evening Post,
points to Antoine Alciatore and his two sons, Jules and
Ferdinand, as outstanding men around whom the names
of great restaurants have been built.

Chicago epicures and epicuresses thank the stars that
there is a member of this great family of restaurateurs in
town, for nowhere else can they indulge their passion for
delectable viands with greater zest and enjoyment than
in this one-story restaurant among the auto salesrooms of
South Michigan Boulevard. All the great dishes of Creole
cookery, which is the most original school of cookery in
the United States, combining as it does both French and
Spanish influences, are served here with such skill and
palatableness as to draw people not only from all parts
of Chicago but from other cities as well. The chef, Arnold
Pfeffinger, was trained in New Orleans kitchens and

39

knows how to prepare these dishes in the true Alciatore
tradition.

Now, messieurs et mesdaTnes, if you wish a typical New
Orleans dinner, we would suggest salade d'anchoix — an-
chovy salad with beets, chopped Q^g and capers — for your
hors d'oeuvres. It's perfectly grand. Among the oysters,
there is that culinary masterpiece first oflFered to the world
in the old Antoine restaurant — namely, oysters Rocke-
feller. You may order it here, but you may not order the
recipe of its incomparable sauce, for that remains a secret
of the Alciatore family. Creole gumbo, of course, is your
soup in any Maison Alciatore, for only the Alciatore chefs
know how to prepare this noted New Orleans concoction
in just the proper manner.

And now we come to the piece de resistance — pompano
papillote. We could write letters home to mother, we
could wax poetic, we could shout from the house-tops,
over the delicious pompano that Max Manus, oldest of
the Alciatore waiters, lays before us; we could go into a
long dissertation over its virtues, describing the savory
fish, the method of baking in oiled paper (the word
"papillote" refers to this process), the history of this
scaleless fish, which is found nowhere else in the world
but in the blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico — we could,
in short, make ourselves ridiculous in our ravings over
the delectableness of this American member of the finny
tribe, but our suggestion is that you try it yourself. We're
sure you'll feel the same way we do after once tasting it.
And don't forget to order souffle potatoes, asparagus tips
and Southern alligator pear salad — which are the conven-
tional accompaniments to New Orleans pompano.

In case you don't care for fish, however, there are lamb

40

chops a la Louisiane, another specialite de la maison,
served with livers and mushrooms and the whole drenched
in claret wine sauce. This is truly a gastronomical delight
and something you'll not easily forget.

At La Louisiane, almost any evening, you'll find both
local and nationally-known celebrities. Maurice Cheva-
lier, the French comedian, dined here when he was in
town; such society personages as Count and Countess
Minetto, Michael Cudahy, Jr., and Mrs. Frederick Coun-
tiss come in often as do those two Randolph Street thea-
tre executives, John J. Garrity and Ralph Kettering. Tito
Schipa, Chicago's favorite opera singer, is another patron,
as is R. R. Donnelly, whose printing firm makes the tele-
phone books. P. M. Goodv/illie, the box manufacturer
and about-towner, and his wife, are regulars and may be
seen here often with their friend. Chief Michael Corrigan,
of the fire department.

But celebrities are not the factor that counts in La
Louisiane. It's the food — and what food! This place is a
culinary landmark of Chicago and you shouldn't miss it.
Gaston's vivacious French manner will charm you and he
will gladly assist you in the selection of dishes. You may
dance at La Louisiane, without cover charge, from 7 P.M.
until 1 A. M.

La Louisiane French-Creole

1341 South Michigan Boulevard

Open for luncheon, dinner and after the theatre

A la carte. Two can dine plentifully for $5.00
Table d'hote, $1.25

Maitre d'hotel: Gaston Alciatore

41

KAU'S

The Wineless Weinstube

We feel sad every time we enter Henry Kau*s place. To
think that this quaint and charming weinstube, redolent
of old times and with a tavern-Hke interior more interest-
ing and picturesque than any you'll find in Chicago — or
Berlin, for that matter — should be without the juice of
the grape! What a pity! It fills us with the sort of wistful
sadness we feel upon beholding in a museum some delicate
old wine glass, now, alas, empty and unused, from the
cupboard of a princely household. How many times have
we longed, while dining here, for a schoppen of one of
those rare old EJiine Valley vintages that Henry Kau used
to purvey in the old days — a Scharlachberger or a Riide-
sheimer — wines that would be so much in keeping with
the dark and medieval atmosphere of this restaurant in
South Wells Street.

Thinking these thoughts, we should pine away and die
if it were not for the new lease on life we take when the
waiter sets before us that which we have ordered. A faint
bouquet charms our nostrils; our eyes begin to glisten;
and our palate awakens with anticipation. For there be-
fore us lies the object for which we usually come to Kau's
— fricasseed chicken. It is a culinary masterpiece. Only
a woman could prepare it in just this way and we thank
the gods for Mrs. Mueller, chef for Henry Kau for thirty-
five years, who is responsible for making diners feel no
regrets at the absence of wines. English mutton chops,

42

special steaks, Iamb chops, roast lamb, fowls and game in
season, are other dishes of the house that are especially
notable.

Small wonder, then, that Chicago's kings of finance,
captains of industry, merchant princes, and millionaires
of all sorts have sat — and still continue to sit — at the
tables in this old German weinstube, which is located just
around the corner from the La Salle Street financial dis-
trict. The wholesale district is also nearby.

That world-renowned Chicagoan, General Charles
Gates Dawes, at present ambassador to the Court of St.
James, dines here frequently when he is in town; here
came the late Albert B. Kuppenheimer, clothing manu-
facturer; it was the favorite eating place of James Simp-
son, chairman of the board of Marshall Field & Company
and head of the Chicago Plan Commission; Louis Eck-
stein, founder of the Ravinia Opera, has his fricasseed
chicken here, as does John J. Mitchell, the banker (the
younger) , and Charles Netcher, head of the Boston Store;
and you're likely to find those two friends, Ludwig Plate,
local manager of the North German Lloyd offices, and Dr.
Hugo Simon, the German consul, at one of the tables al-
most any day. Here also came the late Charles Wacker,
the city planner, after whom Wacker Drive is named.

That Kau's was built as a temple of wine and food is
evidenced on all sides; the white-tiled fagade is carved
with designs of lobsters and game and monks drinking
wine; the leaded windows of colored glass are covered
with culinary symbols; the interior walls are of mahogany
panelling and hung with old German color prints of
scenes along the Rhine; and back of the service bar is a

43

large painting of the vineyard-covered hills of Bingen-
on-the-Rhine, where Henry Kau spent his boyhood.

In 1914, upon his return from a tour of Germany,
Henry Kau built this weinstube, embodying in it the best
features of the weinstuben he had studied in Berlin.
Henry feels that you won't find anything to compare
with it in the German capital. It was designed by the late
Peter J. Weber, a noted architect who also designed the
Ravinia Opera Pavilion and some of the World's Fair
buildings in 1893.

All of which is to say that if you are looking for genuine
old-time tavern atmosphere, combined with food of the
highest excellence, we recommend Henry Kau's without
reservations. And you will quickly forget that this is a
wineless weinstube.

Kau's German- American

127 South Wells Street

Open for luncheon and dinner

Table d'hote only — and a bit steep

Maitre d' hotel: Henry Kau

MADAME GALLI'S
Still at the Old Stand

Once, while conversing with the late Enrico Caruso as he
ate spaghetti in her restaurant, Mme. Galli said:

44

"Signer, I would give the whole world if I could sing
like you."

And the great "O Sole Mio" singer replied:

"Madame, I would give the whole world if I could
cook spaghetti like you."

And there you have it in a nut shell. For forty years,
Mme. Galli's has been serving spaghetti and other Italian
dishes to Chicago's diners-out and bons vivants as well
as to notables of the theatrical, operatic and literary
worlds. It was the first Italian restaurant in town. And it
is still at the old stand, the same today as it was almost
half a century ago; but alas — Mme. Galli is now with
God. She died in 1915 and her daughter-in-law, Mme.
America Galli, has been carrying on the business ever
since, and with as much success.

The story of Mme. Carmelinda Galli, founder of this
nationally-known restaurant, is a romance of Tower
Town. In fact, the near north side art colony, centering
around the old Chicago Avenue water tower, had its birth
in Mme. Galli's little old three-story brick house just
across the river from the Loop. Born in Lucca, Italy, of
well-to-do parents, she came to Chicago in 1883 with her
husband and children. When her husband died shortly
afterwards, she was left in straitened circumstances and
was forced to take in boarders in her little house in East
Illinois Street.

These boarders were mostly poor starving artists and
writers and she fed them spaghetti, having learned how
to cook it in a special way from the old family cook in
sunny Italy. She did not open a restaurant, however, until
after an episode involving a group of actors and actresses
from abroad, who were playing in Chicago in the Eight-

45

ies. It seems they threatened to go back to their native
heath unless they could find a spaghetti restaurant in
Chicago. A stage hand who boarded at Mme. Galli's told
them about her wonderful spaghetti. They immediately
flocked to her boarding house, her fame grew with a
bound, and shortly afterwards she put in several more
long tables and opened a restaurant.

But although she grew in worldly fortune, Mme. Galli
never forgot the poor artists, writers and musicians of
the bohemian quarter. When she died sixteen years ago at
the age of sixty-six years, Tower Town mourned her as
"The Queen of Bohemia."

During its long existence, Mme. Galli's has made his-
tory. It was a surprise to us to learn that Rotary was
born here (H. L. Mencken, please note). ''It was in this
restaurant, on Feb. 23, 1905, that Paul P. Harris, a Chi-
cago attorney, paused over a dish of spaghetti and men-
tioned his idea of Rotary to an interested listener, Syl-
vester Schiele," wrote Frank J. Cipriani, of the Chicago
Tribune. Here, also, in the Gay Nineties, came Eugene
Field, "the children's poet," with a bunch of cronies from
the old Chicago Daily News office; another literary light
of that time who first learned how to eat spaghetti here
was George Ade, and nowadays he never comes to town
from his Indiana farm without having a "feed" at Mme.
Galli's. George Horton wrote a good portion of his Chi-
cago novel, "The Long Straight Road," in this place, and
he devotes considerable space in it to a description of the
restaurant. In later years there came such significant fig-
ures in American literature as William Marion Reedy and
Edgar Lee Masters. Always, the local literary and other
critics have frequented the place — Llewellyn Jones and

46

Susan Wilbur, of the Post; C. J. Buillet, art critic of the
Post; and Howard Vincent O'Brien, of the Daily News,

One of the proud possessions of the family is a large
caricature drawing, hanging on the wall, of Mme. Galli,
made by the great Caruso in 1910. This was the favorite
Chicago dining place of the opera singer. Other singers
and conductors from the opera came here — Francesca
Daddi, Toscanini, Campanini, Rimini and Tito Schipa.
Such stage and screen stars as Leon Errol, Bernard Gran-
ville, Al Jolscn, Jane Cowl, Will Rogers, Buster Keaton,
Raymond Hitchcock, W. C. Fields, Elsie Janis, Ann Pen-
nington, Ina Claire and Moran and Mack eat or have
eaten at Mme. Galli's board. Framed and autographed
photographs of many of these personages hang from the
walls. Here, too, the late Eddie Foy first met his wife,
who was one of Mme. Galli's boarders. Located near the
old Criminal Courts Building and County Jail, Mme.
Galli's was also the rendezvous of eminent judges — Mar-
cus Kavanaugh, Theodore Brentano and the late Frank
Comer ford.

There are scores of other distinguished people who have
eaten, or continue to eat, in this little unpretentious place,
but Mme. America Galli (who, by the way, was born
here) does not keep a guest book and cannot recall all of
them.

Mme. Galli's is of particular interest to us, however, be-
cause nowhere this side of Naples can you get better spa-
ghetti. It is served with a sauce that has made the house
famous, the recipe of which old Mme. Galli refused to
sell to the Heinz company for a not unflattering figure.
They have no menu here, the customer merely being asked
his choice of entrees — chicken, squab, filet mignon, or

47

lamb chops. The whole dinner includes an appetizer, soup,
spaghetti, the entree, salad, cheese and apples, or the deli-
cious Italian ice cream, spumoni. As prepared by Chef
Orazio Monti, who possesses the Galli family secrets in
regard to cuisine, this dinner explains the reason why so
many notable people are seen here almost any evening.

Mme. Galli's Italian

1 8 East Illinois Street

Open for luncheon and dinner

Table d^hote only. Luncheon, 75 cents, Dinner, $1,50

Maitresse d'hotel: Mme. America Galli

NEW COLLEGE INN

Food and Entertainment a la By field

Bouillabaisse a la Marseillaise! If you have ever tasted this
famed Mediterranean fish stew, brought to perfection by
the chefs of Prunier's in Paris, you have come the nearest
to eating the sort of food our dear departed presumably
eat in heaven. It is the rarest of sea food delicacies and its
memory remains on your palate for days. But you don't
have to go to Paris to get it — thanks to the Byfield broth-
ers, proprietors of the Hotel Sherman, and known from
Broadway to the Loop as the most genial and enterprising
of hosts.

For in their New College Inn, in the basement of the

48

Hotel Sherman, they have installed M. Jean Gazabat as
head chef — M. Jean himself, formerly of Maison Prunier's
and the Cafe de Paris, two of the leading dining places in
Gay Paree. Monsieur Jean's genius in the preparation of
sea foods, learned in the kitchens of Prunier's, has al-
ready put the College Inn high up in the list of Chicago
sea food restaurants favored by discriminating epicures.
And one of his outstanding specialties is Bouillabaisse a la
Marseillaise.

All of which culinary data is offered as proof of the
fact that the College Inn is as much a dining place as a
place of dancmg and entertainment. It is the oldest dine-
and-dance restaurant on the Randolph Street Rialto; for
thirty years it has been a gathering place for theatrical
stars and just ordinary people "out for a night." In the
years immediately before and after the war, Isham Jones
and his dance orchestra made the College Inn a Mecca for
Loop pleasure -seekers.

Then, in recent years, when times changed and the
modernist note came to the fore in the arts of decoration,
the Byfield brothers, ever progressive and **aware," re-
decorated the old College Inn, installed new features,
inaugurated a delightful floor show, improved the cuisine
and — most important of all improvements — brought in
Ben Bernie as master of ceremonies. The *'Old Maestro,"
as Bernie is known to his friends, has practically made the
New College Inn what it is today, providing the most
attractive after-the-theatre entertainment in Chicago.

But the food has not been sacrificed on the altar of
jazz. The a la carte menu handed to you by the ever-
polite Braun (popularly known as "Brown") , the maitre
d'hotel, would delight the eye of the most cosmopolitan

49

of diners-out. Choice dishes from the gay capitals of
Europe tempt your palate. Here, for example, are those
delicious items prepared by Louis Vatel, an expert chef
in the preparation of Italian and other Continental
viands. Here, also, are the chafing dish specialties offered
by Joe Colton, known to many as "Finnan Haddie Joe."
Trained in the kitchens of the original Rector's in Chi-
cago, and later with the same restaurant in New York,
Joe is the cook responsible for such popular items as Col-
lege Inn chicken a la king, chicken shortcake, lobster
Newburg, and the appetizing Creamed Finnan Haddie a
la College Inn.

We advise you not to miss Joe's finnan haddie, served
with an admirable cream sauce infused with the most
luscious of small red shrimps. It is a rare gastronomic
pleasure. As for his lobster Newburg, sufficient comment
is made on it when we say that those two epicures of
Chicago, Amy Leslie, dean of dramatic critics, and Louis
Swift, the packer, come to the College Inn almost weekly
to partake of it. On the other hand, the late Raymond
Hitchcock preferred Joe's chicken shortcake to any of his
other specialties. There are others among famous people
who come for the wide variety of oysters, served at the
new Oyster Bar.

What with its main dancing and dining room, its ad-
joining hors d'oeuvres bar and oyster bar, and Ben Bernie,
the College Inn is probably the most interesting and
unique restaurant in Chicago. Ashton Stevens, an habitue
of the College Inn, even goes further and says that it is
the most successful night club in America. Around the
walls is a modernist design of a tropical aquarium, done
by the painter, John Norton; and when the lights are

50

turned low for dancing, strange and exotic fish appear in
a glow of phosphorescent pastel colors — an effect ob-
tained by the use of radium paint. The firm headed by-
Ralph A. Bond, the prominent clubman and backgam-
mon expert, laid the dance floor which, it is said, resembles
a backgammon board.

A word about the famous "Theatrical Nights'* on
Thursday nights in the College Inn. Don't miss attend-
ing at least one. Stevens says they have "actually become
a scandal all over the United States." Actors and actresses,
famous and not so famous, come here after the theatre on
these nights and put on an impromptu performance that
you will never forget. And they come because they like
Ben Bernie, Ernest Byfield, Dr. Albert Byfield, and Frank
W. Bering, manager of the hotel and noted polo player.

One local drama critic made the remark that on the
evening he attended Theatrical Night "there must have
been at least $70,000 worth of theatrical talent among
the diners." We are inclined to believe him when we re-
call the names of some of the stars who have been present
in the past — Irene Bordoni, Ethel Barrymore, Frank
Morgan, the Four Marx brothers. Rod LaRocque, Vilma
Banky, Dorothy and Paula Stone, Clark and McCullough,
Rudy Vallee, De Wolf Hopper, William Hodge, Helen
Morgan, and a host of others.

The drama critics come too — Gail Borden, of the
Times; Charles Collins, of the Tribune; Mrs. Margaret
Mann Crolius, of the News. A host of well-known and
popular Rialto characters are always present, such as
U. J. ("Sport") Hermann, the theatre manager; Ser-
geants William Drury and John Howe, of the Detective

51

Bureau; and Richard (''Rich") Jacobson, editor of the
political newspaper, Standard Opinion.

So, if you are looking for a unique thrill to tell the
folks about when you get back home, we suggest the New
College Inn.

New College Inn American

Randolph and Clark Streets

Open for luncheon, the dansant, dinner, after-the-theatre
supper, aftd Jtntil the milkman comes

Cover charge after 9:30 P. M., $1.00. Saturday nights,
$1.50. On Theatrical Nights, $2.00

Mattre d^hotel: J. Braun

A/«

LITTLE BOHEMIA

With a Capital B

The Little Bohemia is not a restaurant for long-haired
artists and short-haired poetesses. It is not a rendezvous of
bohemians; no midnight coffee, cigarettes and lofty dis-
cussions of Freud are in evidence here. No, you spell the
last name of the Little Bohemia with a capital B — which
means that it is patronized by persons of Bohemian na-
tionality or descent. And not only these, but individuals
of high and low degree from all other races in Chicago
come here, for the Little Bohemia is a landmark of the

52

west side, serving food as good as any to be found outside
the Loop.

In the old days (Ah, the old days! ) , the Little Bohemia
was known all over town for its imported Pilsner beer.
Many were the celebrities, during the summer evenings
of long ago, who used to drive out to the west side in a
hansom cab and sip those big steins of Pilsner served there.
Not the least of them were the late Theodore Thomas,
founder of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra, and his
companion, Henry Kau, the restaurateur and former
wine merchant.

It was logical for Pilsner to be purveyed here, for this
place is located in the heart of **Little Pilsen," as Chicago's
neighborhood of Bohemian families in the vicinity of
West 18th Street and Blue Island Avenue is called. Al-
though prohibition has come, and the Pilsner has gone, the
Little Bohemia otherwise remains the same today as it
was in the old days — that is, architecturally speaking.
You could find no more comfortable and pleasant dining
room in town than the one here. It is quietly and attrac-
tively done in mahogany woodwork; murals depicting
scenes in early Chicago history decorate the walls; and at
the rear is a log cabin dining room, filled with antlers and
other trophies of the hunt.

People from all parts of Chicago come here nowadays
for the excellent food and the convivial atmosphere.
Emil Wanatka is a restaurateur of the old school and takes
a personal interest in his menu and the customer who
reads it. A native of Bohemia, he serves any dish to be
found on the menu of the famed Hotel Continental, in
Pilsen, Bohemia. These dishes, however, are not greatly
diflferent from German dishes, but Emil's roast goose with

53

sauerkraut is something that you'll like especially. Regu-
lar American items are served here also and in a way that
does credit to Emil's cooks, who are all women. And you'll
like the toothsome Bohemian pastries, Emil serves game
in season — moose, bear meat and caribou-
Offering good substantial dishes in an appetizing way,
the Little Bohemia caters in a large measure to the sport-
ing element of the city. It receives a heavy **play" during
the racing season at Hawthorne, since its location on the
west side makes it convenient to motorists on their way
out to or returning from the Cicero racetrack. Here,
come the prize fight followers after any big fisticuff
event at the Chicago Stadium, which is not far away.
Gene Tunney dined here at the time he fought Jack
Dempsey in Chicago. Newspapermen and city officials
are frequenters and it is one of the dining places of Mayor
Anton Cermak, who was born in Bohemia. Heads of
the commission houses in the South Water Commission
Market, located in the nearby ''Valley," come here also.

The Little Bohemia Bohemian- American

1722 South Loamis Street

Open for luncheon, dinner, and supper

A la carte only — and reasonable

Mattre d'hotel: Emil Waitatka

54

ATLANTIC DINING ROOM

Old Heidelberg

If you've ever been to Heidelberg, that romantic medieval
university town on the Neckar, and visited its old Heidel-
berger Schloss, an outstanding example of German cas-
tle architecture, you'll appreciate to the full the charm of
the Hotel Atlantic main dining room. If you haven't been
to old Heidelberg — well, here's the next best thing to it.

For this small, picturesque dining room used to be the
Bauernstube of the Kaiserhof Hotel, a famed hostelry for
German- Americans, that formerly stood on the site of the
Atlantic. When they tore down the original Kaiserhof
many years ago, this dining room, together with the old
bar-room, was preserved and incorporated into the new
building. In no other restaurant in the Windy City can
you enjoy the atmosphere of the grand old days as in this
place.

If you're an expert antiquarian, however, you'll notice
that the Batcernstube is something more than a mere
Heidelberg peasant's room, being really a combination of
an old German Kneipe (inn room) , a medieval hall and a
rather luxurious Bauernstube. Everything in the room
smacks of medieval Germany — raftered ceiling, high oak
wainscoting, heraldic devices, wood carvings, and the
murals of Lichtenstein Castle and other historic German
landmarks, done by the painter, Edgar Spier Cameron.

To a modern sophisticate, however, it all looks rococo
and flowery and unnecessary. But even your sophisticate

55

could not disguise his interest in the most distinguishing
feature of this dining room — the thirty-four pyrographic
panels at the farther end of the restaurant. In the old
days this part used to be the "Ladies' Cafe" of the Bau-
ernstuhe. The panels are set into the German Renaissance-
style wainscoting. They are the work of Otto Schwarz
Vanderleeden, noted creator of burnt-wood pictures, and
the subjects represented are taken chiefly from Goethe's
"Faust" and Shakespeare's "Merry Wives of Windsor."

The Atlantic Grill, which is a counter lunch room of
the hotel facing directly on Clark Street, formerly was
the Kaiserhof Bar and still retains some of the features of
the one-time drinking place, notably the seated plaster
figure of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, standing out in
haut relief in a centerpiece on the north wall. The ravens
are beside him, and he seems to have just been awakened
by their cawing after his periodical sleep of a hundred
years in the Kyfifhauser Mountains. But Frank L. Hayes,
poet of the Chicago Daily News and sometime patron of
the lunch room, gives a different interpretation of this fig-
ure in a recent poem:

"The faces one saw here in nineteen-eleven
One finds here no longer; perhaps they're in heaven.
That's why the old king in his niche, looking down,
Is knitting his brows in a sorrowful frown."

As for the food served in the main dining room, Her-
man Schurg, maitre d'hotel, says it is "an international
cuisine — with a leaning toward the German." Herman is
telling the truth. French, German, English and Amer-
ican dishes — all prepared under the watchful eye of Chef
Otto Johannisson, one of Chicago's outstanding cooks —

56

await you at luncheon and dinner. The Atlantic is also
noted for its pastries, baked in its own ovens. We like
especially the stollen, the recipe of which dates back four
hundred years in Teutonic history, and the almond-filled
strudel, a delightful creation to go with your coffee. There
are French and Danish pastries, cheese cake, and pum-
pernickel bread and old-fashioned German rye bread,
made from sour dough.

And if you want to see some of the noted men of
Chicago, men from such landmarks in the vicinity as
the Board of Trade, the Stock Exchange, the Federal
Building, the Union League Club, the Insurance Ex-
change Building and the Continental Illinois Bank &
Trust Company, come here any day at noon. The late
James Patten, the wheat king, ate here, and Arthur Cut-
ten, the present wheat king, comes in often. Here dine
such prominent German-Americans as Dr. Otto Schmidt,
the historian; Oscar Mayer, the sausage manufacturer;
Dr. Hugo Simon, German consul; Dr. Louis B. Schmidt,
the noted surgeon; Albert Brietung, the tobacco manu-
facturer, and Ernest J. Kreutgen, head of the engraving
firm. Julius Rosenwald, the philanthropist, dines here fre-
quently, as does James E. Gorman, president of the Rock
Island Railroad and Dr. Max Heinus, member of the li-
brary board.

The waiters are courteous and considerate and Her-
man, the maitre d'hotel, will see to it that you are made
comfortable. Remember, it's the food that counts —
and this is a place for good substantial food.

Hotel Atlantic Dining Room German- American

316 South Clark Street

57

open for luncheon and dinner

Plate luncheon, 85 cents. Table d'hote dinner, $1,25,
Also a la cart^'

Maitre d'hotel: Herman Schurg

HENRICrS

''No Orchestral Din"

Is there a Chicagoan living, no matter how old, who does
not remember Henrici's windows, ever since his mother
first took him downtown as a child — those big windows
laden with tantalizing creations in birthday, wedding,
and fruit cakes and, at Christmas time, those big English
plum puddings? Here is the oldest restaurant in Chicago.
Situated in the gaudy center of the Randolph Street thea-
trical district, this grand old temple of the culinary art
is known from coast to coast; its familiar advertising
phrase, **No Orchestral Din," has become a national
slogan, as common as ''Say It With Flowers" or ''Janssen
Wants To See You."

And this phrase, *'No Orchestral Din," is not an idle
boast. Your true gourmet will quickly recognize the
significance of it. Since Henrici's is an establishment de-
voted solely to the art of eating, as it was practiced in
the good old days, everything has been ruled out that
might be foreign to the quiet, dignified and restful at-

58

mosphere which a born gourmet seeks. No jazz orchestra,
no clatter of silverware or dishes, nor the sound of wait-
resses moving about, disturbs the Henrici patron in the
enjoyment of his food or in conversation with fellow
diners.

We Sire not engaging in a superlative (for which Chi-
cagoans are notorious) when we say that Henrici's is the
oldest restaurant in the city. Turn to any of the early city
guide-books and you will find that it was founded in
1868 — three years after the close of the Civil War. And
its atmosphere today is practically the same as it was
in the days of hoop skirts and side-burns. It is like a bit
of the Old World in the midst of modern American sky-
scrapers; a breath of Vienna, that brilliant capital of din-
ing halls. And so it should be, for Phillip Henrici, its
founder, was a member of an old Vienna family of noted
restaurateurs. Coming to this country as a young man, he
continued westward to Chicago and set up a small eat-
ing-place near Madison and Wells Streets, which was the
"Newspaper Row" of that day. In the course of time the
diners-out — newspapermen, sportsmen, and business men
— beat a path to his door. His wonderful coffee and deli-
cious pastries became the talk of the town.

In building the present restaurant, which was opened
in the days of the World's Fair of 1893, Philip Henrici
sought for that restful spaciousness and air of elegance
which were the hallmarks of the great dining places he
knew back in gay Vienna. This atmosphere remains to-
day, like that of a cool retreat in the midst of hot, fever-
ish modernism. Remain, too, the excellent coffee and
delectable pastries. And on the walls still hang the oil

59

paintings that Henrici collected from European salons
and studios during the course of the years and which now
give the place a distinctive touch. And for a comprehen-
sive American cuisine, with such added features as certain
popular German, French, and Italian specialties, Henrici's
is the equal of any in Chicago.

Small wonder, then, that with such coffee, pastries, and
wholesome food, Henrici's should become the gathering
place of local and national celebrities. To attempt to name
them, considering the long history of this restaurant,
would fill a volume. In the past, to mention only a few,
came the lata John P. Altgeld, greatest governor of Illi-
nois; Theodore Drieser, who refers to Henrici's several
times in his "American Tragedy;" Edward F. Dunne,
former governor of Illinois, and Carter H. Harrison, for-
mer mayor of Chicago; Jim Jeflfries, Jack Lait, Ring
Lardner, George Ade, and a host of others. Practically all
the famous actors and actresses of the past have eaten
here at some time or other. At the present time, Edna
Ferber always dines here when she is visiting her native
Chicago and has described the restaurant in a number of
her novels; such stars of the theatrical world as Al Jolson
and Eddie Cantor, as well as opera singers and popular
vaudevillians, are regular patrons when playing in Chi-
cago. Henrici's has also become the last stopping place in
a sort of gastronomical circuit being followed in recent
years by Mayor Anton Cermak and other leaders of the
local Democratic party. They lunch at the Celtic Grill
in the Hotel Sherman; have dinner in the Pompeiian
Room at the Congress and wind up at midnight in Hen-
rici's. The older generation of theatrical stars, too, have
established a midnight rendezvous here.

60

HenricVs American

71 West Randolph Street

Open 7 A. M. to 1 A. M. Sundays, 8 A. M. to midnight

A la carte only — and reasonable

BLUE FOUNTAIN ROOM:
HOTEL LA SALLE

Chafing Dish and Saxophone

Here you may see those two highly-polished instruments,
the chafing dish and the saxophone, manipulated by the
fingers of experts. Quickly and deftly the waiters pre-
pare the chafing dish specialties of this dining room at
your table — veal chop saute with bacon and fresh mush-
rooms a la Melba, breast of capon with Virginia ham and
rice a la Hongroise, whole breast of baby chicken
a la Queen Roumanienne, or Lake Superior Jumbo white-
fish a la Mary Garden. You are thrilled by the Continental
aspect that these chafing dish activities give the place, and
you are more thrilled upon eating that which you have
seen prepared before your eyes.

Meanwhile, the saxophone is in deft hands also — which
is a more American feature. The room is alive with the
intoxicating, but not blatant, music from "Husk"
O'Hare's orchestra, and couples are tripping the fox trot
fantastic under the colored lights and around the foun-

61

tain of blue water in the center of the room. All is gay,
and colorful, and elegant — and you feel that you are hav-
ing a time of it.

Such is the Blue Fountain Room at dinner hour. But
during luncheon, the atmosphere is more restrained and
dignified. Then it is that you find the lovers of good
victuals collected at the tables — principally bankers and
capitalists from the La Salle Street financial district. The
Blue Fountain Room was one of the favorite dining places
of the late James Patten, the wheat king; here also came
the late John J. Mitchell, the banker, and the late James
B. Duke, the tobacco king. At the present time, during
luncheon, you are likely to run into George M. Reynolds,
the banker; Henry A. Blair, the traction magnate; and
Joe Leiter, the millionaire. Here it was, also, that Paul
Leach, noted political writer of the Chicago 'Daily News,
held many of the conversations with his friend. General
Dawes, which led to the writing of *'That Man Dawes,'*
a recent biography.

The prices in the Blue Fountain Room are not as high
as you might expect after reading the above names.
Therefore, if you want to indulge in a chafing dish dinner,
we know of no better place in town than the Blue Foun-
tain Room.

Incidentally, Hotel La Salle contains the only roof
garden in the Loop. It is on the top floor, open during
the summer months only, and you may dine and dance
from 6 P. M. to 1 A. M. The food is on a par with that
served in the Blue Fountain Room. Here is a pleasant ad-
venture during a hot summer's evening, with the streets
of the downtown district far below you.

62

Blue Fountain Room: Hotel La Salle American

La Salle and Madison Streets

Open for luncheon, dinner, and after the theatre

Special blue plate dinners, 8 5 cents. Table d^hote dinner,
$1.50

Also a la carte — which is expensive enough

Cover charge after 9 P. M., 50 cents. Saturdays, $1.00

Dancing, 6:30 P. M. to 1 A. M.

L'AIGLON

La Cuisine Francaise

Escargots Bourguignonne! Moules mariniere! Pate de foie
gras! Poulet belle meuniere! Omelette au fromage! Cre-
vettes mariniere! Filet mignon! All the bewildering and
ingenious viands of French cookery, the greatest school
of cookery in the world, are on L*Aiglon's menu, provid-
ing the connoisseur of table delicacies with an excellent
opportunity to indulge his inclinations towards refined
orgy.

In case you're up in the air as to what all these French
names mean, your waiter will gladly explain them and
even arrange a typical dinner of French dishes for you.
For the waiters here are nothing if not courteous, patient,
very French, and politely aware of the average Chi-
cagoan's lack of training in French verbs.

63

But Just to post you on the subject beforehand, we'll
give you the lowdown on what these things mean. Escar-
gots bourguignonne is nothing but snails with bourguig-
nonne sauce — and a very delicious dish, too. Moules mari-
niere are mussels with mariniere sauce, a sauce made of
white wine, pure cream and — but you'll have to ask John
Denier, the chef, as to its remaining ingredients. We don't
know whether it is the mussels or the sauce that makes
this dish so highly palatable.

The pate de foie gras — paste of goose liver — at L'Aig-
lon is something you'll rave about; but the poulet belle
meuniere — chicken with "'beautiful" meuniere sauce —
is even better. Omelette au fromage is a cheese omelette,
and crevettes mariniere are shrimps with mariniere sauce
— as good as any you'll get this side of Paris. The bearnaise
sauce served with the filet mignon — tenderloin steak —
is an appetizing concoction of melted butter, yolk of
egg, meat jelly and herbs, making your filet mignon a de-
lightful adventure in eating.

All these dishes are popular in the cafes of Paris and are
typically French. And there are others — frogs' legs, Cha-
teaubriand (thick rump steak, served with mushrooms),
and Iamb chops Maison d'Or. Also you will find here that
popular fish, English sole, imported in ice from overseas,
as well as deep sea trout with marguery sauce.

Creole cookery, too, has its place in the L'Aiglon cui-
sine— pompano papillate and Creole gumbo, being two
of the outstanding items. Teddy Majerus, owner and
manager of L'Aiglon, used to be connected with the fa-
mous old La Louisiane restaurant in New Orleans. He
came to Chicago, however, and worked with Gaston
Alciatore in the management of the restaurant in South

64

Michigan Boulevard which bears the same name as the
New Orleans institution. Then he went in business for
himself, opening up L'Aiglon on the near north side. His
knowledge of Creole cookery, therefore, is quite what it
should be, but it is his French dishes that draw the crowds,
for Teddy first obtained his training as a caterer in the
best cafes of Paris and London before he came to the
United States.

Too expensive for the bohemians of Tower Town, in
which it is located, L'Aiglon is patronized largely by the
fashionables of the Gold Coast, sleek well-dressed business
men from the Loop, and celebrities from the stage and the
opera. Teddy Majerus didn't think it would be ethical to
give us the names of some of his better-known patrons, so
you'll have to visit L'Aiglon some evening and find out
for yourself.

You'll probably have as hard a time as we did in trying
to discover ''who's who" among the patrons. For the
Siamese Twins have nothing on this restaurant, architec-
turally speaking. It occupies two old brownstone man-
sions, joined together, one of which was the former home
of Nelson Barnes, the millionaire broker. All of the rooms
in the two old houses have been utilized as dining rooms,
and the restaurant today is as full of private dining rooms,
supper rooms, reception rooms and dancing rooms as a
castle on the Rhine. There are also many passageways,
steps and hallways thrown in for good measure. In view
of this arrangement, how is one going to find out whether
some noted actress or millionaire or other notable is pres-
ent in L'Aiglon?

Here, however, you'll find excellent French food, a
Parisian atmosphere, considerate waiters, music and danc-

6S

ing, and personable Teddy Majerus. So why go to Paris
when you have L*Aiglon?

UAiglon Restaurant Creole -French

22 East Ontario Street

Table d'hote dinner, $1.75. Special UAiglon dinner,
$3.00. Also a la carte

Open for luncheon, dinner, and supper

Maitre d'hotel: Theodore Majerus

GOLD'S

'The Rector's of the Ghetto''

Somebody called Gold's restaurant, in the Jewish quarter
on the southwest side, the "Rector's of the Ghetto." We
think no better sobriquet could have been applied to
Gold's, since it is truly to the Ghetto what Rector's was
to Broadway. Here, you will find the wealth and the
beauty and the brains of Chicago's large Jewish quarter,
gathered before Mr. Gold's inviting board; and you will
also find many lovers of highly-seasoned foods from
other parts of town. Celebrities come here too — Irving
Berlin, Eddie Cantor, Al Jolson and Georgie Jessel, when-
ever they are in town. Ben Hecht, the novelist, made this
place a rendezvous when he was a Chicago newspaperman.
Kosher cooking, of course, prevails at Gold's. And
when you have kosher cooking you have clean cooking,

66

for the word kosher means "clean." But kosher, with its
limited orthodox significance, is not emphasized at
Gold's, for their menu is as American as any to be found
downtown and all of their foods are clean and wholesome
and expertly prepared.

Chicken appears to be the main theme in the symphony
of a Jewish menu. At Gold's, the chopped chicken livers,
served with a touch of "schmaltz" (goose grease), are
excellent as an appetizer; the noodle soup is a rich con-
coction; the chicken "blinzes" with green peas are deserv-
ing of high praise; the gefiilte fish is the last word; and
the Russian tea and cookies are just the thing for dessert.

Gold's is not a Ghetto restaurant in the strict sense of
the word (the Maxwell Street Ghetto is two blocks
south), but is a clean, modern, dining parlor, tastefully
decorated; and the Pompeiian Room upstairs, where wed-
dings and banquets are held, is comparable to any similar
room in a Loop hotel.

We recommend Gold's if you like highly-seasoned
foods, shot through with plenty of garlic, and served in
a gay metropolitan atmosphere. For Gold's is situated at
Halsted Street and Roosevelt Road, the crossroads of
the Jewish quarter.

Gold's ] ewish-Avterican

8 1 0 West Roosevelt Road

Open all day and all night

Table d'hote dinner y $1,25 and $1.35. Also a la carte

Maitre d'hotel: S. Gold

67

IRELAND'S OYSTER HOUSE

Delicacies From the Deep

When Chlcagoans think of sea foods they think of Ire-
land's. For over a generation, Jim Ireland has been pur-
veying every conceivable form of deep sea delicacy, and
delicacies from seas not so deep, to diners-out all the way
from the exclusive Gold Coast to **Back-o'-the-Yards."
Being an open-all-night establishment, Ireland's is as pop-
ular with after-theatre crowds as it is with diners before
the theatre.

And on Fridays, either for luncheon or dinner, the
place is packed with people from offices in the Loop and
with politicians, executives, theatrical people, newspaper-
men, and big. red-necked, policemen. During the many
years that his restaurant has been located on North Clark
Street, a short distance north of the downtown district,
Jim Ireland has made hundreds of friends and he has kept
them by virtue of the excellence of his sea foods.

His oysters arrive every day fresh from the coast and
are a luscious treat to the palate; his $2.75 lobster shore
dinner has become an institution in Chicago; his $1.00
fish dinner is like none other in town; and his jumbo
frogs' legs, scallops, clam chowder, and halibut, to men-
tion only a few of his other items, are appetizing beyond
compare.

Of outstanding merit, however, is Jim's planked Lake
Superior whitefish. This sea food is said to be Chicago's
gift to the nation's edibles, just as Boston has contributed

6S

baked beans, New Orleans the pompano, and San Fran-
cisco chop suey. And nowhere in Chicago can you get
Lake Superior whitefish prepared more expertly than in
Ireland's.

In keeping with the nature of his board, Jim has ar-
ranged several very delightful dining rooms in his estab-
lishment. The main dining room, known as the Marine
Room, is done in the nautical style and is replete with
shipboard effects. The Lobster Grotto is distinguished
by the design of a big lobster in colored glass on the ceiling.
Then there is the Grill Room, with its own ingenious dec-
orations and atmosphere of camaraderie. Another feature
of Ireland's is the absence of any closed kitchen, all of the
cooking being done in the open. As for the waiters, you
will find them as alert as messenger boys at the Board of
Trade — and as intelligent.

Ireland's Oyster House American

632 North Clark Street

Open from noon until the roosters crow

Table d'hote luncheon^ 65 cents. Table d'hote dinner,
$1.00, Also a la carte

Maitre d' hotel: J. H, Ireland

STOCKYARDS INN

The Wild West

Although in close proximity to thousands of cattle on the

69

hoof, your ears hear nothing, your eyes see nothing, and
your nose smells nothing of cattle when you have lunch-
eon in the dining room of the Stockyards Inn. This South
Halsted Street restaurant is near enough to the stockyards
to obtain the choicest cuts of fresh meats, and yet far
enough away from the cattle-pens to make it one of the
important gastronomical locations in Chicago.

Ranchowners and stockmen from the wild west ought
to be good judges of meats. To see these big, sun-tanned
fellows eating luncheon here every day, and eating it with
keen relish, should be proof enough that the foods and
meats served in this establishment receive the stamp of
their approval. The roast beef is unexcelled for freshness
and tenderness; the vegetables seem to have come from
the garden directly to you; and the coffee and pastries are
on a par with the best cofFee and pastries served in the
Loop.

The interior is not an artificial log cabin or ranch house,
as you might expect with a clientele of cowboys from the
prairies. It is quite removed from such, being a replica of
an old English inn, with high oaken panelling and hunt-
ing prints adorning the walls. The atmosphere is very
quiet and comfortable, and the service is beyond reproach.
Women are welcomed.

The Stockyards Inn American

42nd and Halsted Streets

Open for luncheon only

A la carte — and average in price

Mattre d*hotel: John Hill

70

JULIEN'S

Frogs' Legs, a la Julien

Have you ever eaten frogs* legs, the national weakness of
France? They're a memorable delicacy once you've tasted
them. But they are especially memorable if you've tasted
them at Julien's, the oldest French restaurant in town.
Julien's, it is said, made Chicago frogs' legs conscious. We
believe it, considering the way **Ma" Julien cooks them,
giving them that distinctive Julienesque touch which has
been duplicated nowhere this side of Paris. We'll go fur-
ther and say that she could even make a name for herself
in Gay Paree, the home of frogs' legs.

It was from her late husband, Alex, that Mme. Julien
learned the secret of preparing this highly delectable
French viand in so distinctive a style. "Pa" Julien, it was,
who first introduced frogs' legs into Chicago. That was
thirteen years ago. After making a name for himself as
chef in the old Lexington Fiotel when it was in its prime,
and later in the kitchens of the Hamilton Club, the exclu-
sive Casino Club and the Blackstone Hotel, Alex Julien
opened this little French restaurant on the second floor of
his old red- brick home on Rush Street, in Tower Town,
and featured frogs' legs.

Soon fashionable society on the Gold Coast nearby beat
a path to his door — for Julien was an artist and they came
to partake of his masterpiece, frogs' legs. But alas, the gods
became jealous, and *Ta" Julien was removed from this
earth a few years ago — but not before he had left the
secrets of his culinary skill to his capable wife.

71

"Ma" Julien does all the cooking herself now and we
defy you to point out any difference between her frogs'
legs and those that were made by *Ta'* Julien. The same
challenge applies to those other two famed items of the
Maison Julien — scallops and lettuce salad with Julien's
original French dressing. Mme. Julien instills nothing less
than magic into her salad dressing — a ghostly touch of
garlic or something — which makes it an exquisite adven-
ture in gastronomy. The story is told that an Armour
agent once offered "Pa" Julien, who created this dressing,
$15,000 for its recipe and that he refused, maintaining
that its secret should never go out of his family.

Small wonder, then, that famous and wealthy people
may be seen frequently — top-hats and ermines and all —
at the Julien board, partaking of the frogs' legs or the
delicious salad. "Ma" Julien says she doesn't know who
they are half the time, adding regretfully that she's never
kept a guest book. The former French consul, Antonin
Barthelemy, came here often and his successor. Count
Charles de Fontnouvelle is following his example. Here,
also, come such gourmets of the town as County Judge
Edmund K. Jarecki, Postmaster Arthur C. Leuder, Su-
perior Court Judge Joseph B. David, and Scott Durant,
the millionaire.

There is a friendly, home-like atmosphere about Ju-
lien's that you'll like. The tables are covered with white
oil-cloth; paintings of the French countryside adorn the
walls; "Papa" Joffre smiles down from a photograph; sev-
eral "tin hats" from the late war hang above a door
frame; the French tri-colors and American stars and
stripes decorate the bay-window and, last but not least,

72

Mme. Julien's two grown daughters, Marie and Renee,
serve you most charmingly and efficiently.

Since "Ma" Julien only serves at long tables in board-
ing-house fashion, and since there is only room for ninety-
nine persons (and the chairs are always occupied), she
asks you to call her up first — ^Delaware 0040 — and reserve
a place. The frogs' legs and scallops, by the way, are only
served on Tuesdays and Fridays — with the $1.50 and
$2.00 dinners. You may also obtain these same dishes at
the Saturday luncheon. A table d'hote luncheon is served
each day between 11 A. M. and 2 P. M. for 65 cents and
on Sundays for 8 5 cents. We highly recommend Ju-
lien's.

Julien's French

1009 Rush Street

Open for luncheon and dinner

Table d^hote only

Mai tr esse d' hotel: Madame Julien

HARDING'S COLONIAL ROOM

'^The Famous Corned Beef of John P."

Here we have the home of that great American dish —
corned beef and cabbage. Only John P. Harding and his
chefs know the secret of concocting a corned-beef dinner
such as you get here — tender, tasty slices of red corned

73

beef, laid over a heaping mound of fresh green boiled
cabbage, and the whole flanked by boiled potatoes, pars-
ley-buttered and as big as a policeman's fist. After feast-
ing on this famed Harding dinner, you too feel the urge
to write a limerick over it, just as J. P. McEvoy, of "The
Potter's" fame, did.

"The famous corned beef of John P.
Is a succulent delicacy . . .
Why, it's England's belief
It was Harding's corned beef
That practically set Ireland free."

Another well-known author, Julian Street, who is also
one of the most fastidious of epicures, writes of Harding's
corned beef in the Saturday Evening Post. Pointing out
that "certain items from the old American cuisine, the
cuisine of our forefathers, are now found almost exclu-
sively in private homes," he indicates corned beef as an
exception. "Thus the several Harding lunch rooms of
Chicago," he adds, "are famous for their corned-beef
hash, actually supplying it wholesale to some other es-
tablishments." What he means, of course, is Harding's
corned beef and cabbage and not their "corned-beef
hash."

When you can get this old-fashioned American dish in
an atmosphere redolent of Colonial America, your pleas-
ure is well-nigh complete. We know of no more charming
dining room in town than Harding's Colonial Room, on
the second floor of their big eating establishment in South
Wabash Avenue. A pretty young damsel, costumed ap-
propriately in Colonial style, greets you at the elevator
and conducts you to a table where an equally pretty and

74

well-mannered waitress takes your order. These girls,
rosy-cheeked and young, are working their way through
college and are well-bred and intelligent.

Don't get the impression that here you can obtain only
corned beef and cabbage. No, their menu is replete with
other viands as notable — the roast beef is the best in the
city, the steaks and chops with big baked Idaho potatoes
are unexcelled, the sugar-cured baked ham is memorable
and the pastries are as toothsome as can be found, especi-
ally the Colonial Special, consisting of cake with vanilla
ice cream filling, covered with hot caramel sauce and
whole pecans and topped with whipped cream.

You would be missing something if you failed to eat a
corned-beef dinner in Harding's Colonial Room. No-
where in the place can you detect any odor of cabbage
being cooked. All is elegance, charm, and pleasure — con-
siderably added to by the young lady who softly plays
appropriate airs on the baby grand piano.

Harding's Colonial Room American

21 South Wabash Avenue

Open for luncheon and dinner

A la carte only — and surprisingly reasonable

Maitre d'hotel: Martin /. Harding

RED STAR INN

Bavaria oit North Clark Street

Decorative beer steins, leaded windows bearing Teutonic

75

coats of arms, wooden table-tops scoured to the point of
whiteness, and fat waiters with a German accent as thick
as one of Papa Gallauer's liver dumplings, together with
a menu the equal of that of any first-class cafe in Berlin,
combine to make the Red Star Inn one of the most interest-
ing of the German restaurants in a city full of good Ger-
man restaurants. Situated for over thirty years in the heart
of the German district on the north side, "Zum Rothen
Stern" is unique in that it is a replica of some old tavern in
Bavaria — in construction as well as in interior decorations.
The only diJ6ference is that it hasn't got the real Miinchener
or Pilsner.

But the excellence of its food makes up for this loss.
Francis C. Coughlin, writing in the Chicagoan about the
menu in this place, says: "One cannot go into detail over
Red Star menus. It is a task comparable to going into
detail over a civilization." And so it is. Suffice to say that
all the great dishes of German cookery, second only to
French cookery in variety and palatableness, are here pur-
veyed in a style that has brought the great and near great,
as well as the rich and not so rich, of Chicago to Papa Gal-
lauer's board.

Papa Gallauer, with his white Van Dyke, is himself an
institution. A native of Cologne, Germany, he is the
perfect German host. Observe him any evening as he goes
among the tables, welcoming friends, offering suggestions,
or receiving complaints — which, by the way, are few
and far between.

His beaming personality is in part responsible for such
frequent visitors to the Red Star Inn as General Milton J.
Foreman and General Frank R. Schwengel, two of
Chicago's outstanding military leaders; Senator J. Hamil-

76

ton Lewis, of Illinois; Colonel Robert R. McCormick,
publisher of the Chicago Tribune; Carter H. Harrison,
former mayor; Richard Henry Little, the columnist;
Judge Theodore Brentano, pioneer Chicagoan; Burt
Massee, the millionaire explorer; Judge John R. Caverley,
who sentenced Leopold and Loeb; Harold F. McCormick,
the capitalist and former opera "angel;'* Edward F.
Dunne, former governor; and Judge Joseph Sabath, of
divorce court fame.

Representatives of the artistic and literary side of
Chicago life also foregather here — Fred Biesel and his
wife, Francis Strain, the painters; Vincent Starrett, the
bibliophile and writer; Ruth Jameson, another writer;
Vladimir Janowicz, the painter; and Lloyd Lewis, the
dramatic critic.

We could toss oflf a great many more names of Chicago
notables who dine here but these will give you some idea
of the position which this place occupies in Chicago res-
taurant life. It's the food that attracts them — and the
quiet, old-world atmosphere, and Papa Gallauer. And
don't forget the special Easter Bock on draught — almost
as good as the real thing.

Ked Star Inn German- American

152^ North Clark Street

Open from 10 A.M. to 1 A. M.

Table d'hote luncheon, 85 cents. A la carte dinner,
reasonable

Maitre d'hotel: Carl Gallauer

77

BON VIVANT

And What Lobsters!

Henri's lobster dinner has become an institution on the
south side — and should, by rights, be an institution for
the whole town. It would be if M. Henri Delaloye would
do a little more advertising and try to get people to come
here from other sections of the city than just Hyde Park,
Woodlawn and the University of Chicago district. For
over ten years now the Four Hundred of Hyde Park so-
ciety— wealthy residents of the old mansions, hotels,
co-ops, apartment houses and apartment hotels of Hyde
Park Boulevard and the *'Hotel Coast'* east of the Illinois
Central tracks — have been coming to this humble little
red-brick house among the stately old residences of Lake
Park Avenue and partaking of lobsters and oysters and
other French delicacies that are hard to duplicate any-
where in town.

But maybe if Henri advertised more widely he would
be spoiling a good thing. Anyway, we think he'll pardon
us if we mention his restaurant in this book; after all,
we're supposed to hunt out places like this and tell the
world about them. The lobsters, coming twice a week
from Maine and Boston, are served with an eight-course
dinner, and you may have your choice of three roasts —
squab, steak with mushrooms or roast duckling. Henri
himself presides over the kitchen and the perfection of his
lobsters are the result of experiences as a cook in his
native Switzerland, several noted cafes in Paris, the

78

Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York and the Sherman
and Blackstone Hotels in Chicago.

Equally delicious are his oysters, which he serves during
the traditional **R" months. He has invented a special
butter which permeates the oysters during the cooking
process and which makes them the talk of the town.
Gene Morgan, conductor of "Hit or Miss" column in the
Chicago Daily News, has paid tribute to these bi-valves
in a recent poem.

Oysters A La Bon Vivant

The "R" months all are star months

At the Bon Vivant 's rich board,
For then we feast on oysters

Which but gods could once afford.

Reclining in a roomy shell

And warmly dressed in red —
Alas for Mr. Oyster! He

Must leave this kingly bed.

Bon Vivants dine at Bon Vivant.

Its fame has travelled far,
And when I dine there I'm content

With all the things that "R".

When the oysters are out of season, Henri brings out
his soft shell crabs — and you would have to travel far
to feast on crabs like these. There is, too, Henri's special
French dressing for his salads — something to rhapsodize
over. You will like the Bon Vivant because the special-
ties are so marvelous, the service so individual and consid-
erate, and the atmosphere so much like one of those little

79

cafes in a Paris by-way — which, if you have ever been
to Paris, you know are a real deUght.

The Bon Yivant French

4} 67 Lake Park Avenue

Open from 6 P. M. to 9 P. M.

Table d'hote only. Dinner, $1.50. Lobster dinner, $1.75.
Maitre d'hotel: Henri Delaloye

RAINBO SEA FOOD GROTTO

Ship Ahoy!

Out of the crowds, automobiles, street-cars and shop win-
dows of busy South Dearborn Street, you step into the
cabin of the palatial yacht, S. S. *'Rainbo," somewhere
out, say, in mid-Atlantic. A handsome officer, gold braid
and all, pilots you to a table on *'The Deck," as the main
dining room at the rear is called. Painted blue waves and
cumuH clouds fill the north wall, beyond a real ship's
rail; life preservers, bearing the name S. S. "Rainbo,"
are tied to the rail; a ship's clock, barometer and shiny
ship's bell, as well as numerous portholes, adorn the east
wall; doors are marked **Captain," 'Tirst Officer,"
"Chief Engineer," "Chief Steward," "Galley" and
"Storeroom;" real ship's lamps hang from the striped
marine awning overhead; and throughout the dining
room there is the high treble sound of wind whistling

80

through rigging. Everything is authentically nautical
at the Rainbo Sea Food Grotto and all that's lacking is the
rocking of the deck — for which thank the Lord and
Gus Mann.

**Skipper" Gus Mann, who made a name for himself
in the restaurant world as proprietor of the famous
Cafe Zinkand in San Francisco in the days before the
earthquake, has come into greater glory since open-
ing up this picturesque sea food restaurant in Chicago's
Loop. His S. S. "Rainbo" is now "safely anchored in the
harbor of high public esteem," as Frances Warren Baker,
a local magazine writer, put it.

Look over Gus Mann's varied and appetite-provoking
menu. "If it swims we have it," is Gus's slogan. Implor-
ing you to eat more fish, his menu notes:

"At 5 A. M. in waters blue —
The same day it is served to you."

Who wouldn't order Louisiana jumbo frogs after read-
ing this: "Visiting New Orleans without ordering Frogs
is like passing up beans in Boston. The delicacy of a quail,
combined with the game flavor of a pheasant — that's
what a Louisiana Frog tastes like as prepared here." Of
the Coney Island clam chowder, the menu says: "No
magnifying glass needed to find the clams." The oysters,
Waldorf style, are prepared with "chili sauce, bread
crumbs, creamery butter and baked in the shell on a
bed of salt, retaining its ocean tang." The Mammy style
corn pones were "Al Jolson's inspiration;" and as for
the lemon pie: "We paid a young fortune for the recipe;
please don't ask us to reveal it." The spaghetti Caruso is
"a concoction that the famous artist loved to prepare

81

himself. Imported spaghetti cooked to the proper tender-
ness in rich beef stock, chicken Hvers, mushrooms and
genuine Parmesan cheese. Ah, what a flavor!"

Proof that Gus Mann is not exaggerating the quality
of his cuisine may be found here any evening at the dinner
hour — prominent politicians, theatrical stars, society
fashionables and all other well-travelled people who
ought to know good sea food when they taste it, are in
abundance among the diners. Ashton Stevens, son of
California, waxes laudatory over the California crabs
served here, saying they ''have thighs as thick and meaty
as an old-fashioned ballet dancer's.*' Novelist Rupert
Hughes, another Californian, drops in to see Gus Mann
whenever he is in town. Paul Ash, the jazz king, who
used to play the piano for Gus Mann in the old Cafe
Zinkand days, is a frequent visitor. And there are scads
of other notables.

Here, then, you may revel in oysters, deviled crabs,
deep sea scallops, baby lobsters, planked Lake Superior
whitefish, fried Virginia shrimps, Boston mackerel,
broiled Delaware shad roe, as well as in the most savory
of steaks and chops and German potato pancakes and,
for breakfast, delicious sausages and wheat cakes. Every-
thing is wholesome and satisfying — and why wouldn't
it be, with Axel Kastrup, noted throughout Europe and
the United States for his sea food dishes, presiding over
the "galley"? We heartily recommend a meal aboard the
S. S. ''Rainbo" in South Dearborn Street.

Rainho Sea Food Grotto American

117 South Dearborn Street

82

open for breakfast, luncheon and dinner. Closed Sun-
days and holidays

Plate lunch, 50 cents. Table d*hote dinner, $1,50, Also
a la carte

Maitre d'hotel: Gus Mann

PAUL'S

After the Ball is Over

When the performance is over and the theatre signs on
Randolph Street go out, and you're in the mood for an
after-theatre supper; when you're tired of the regular
dining places along the Rialto; when the night clubs
and the food they serve have no lure; when you're fed
up on the Loop and its taxicabs and policemen and lights;
when the night session of the convention or meeting has
come to an end at last, thank goodness; or when the
ball is over, you go to Paul's.

For Paul's is the ideal place to take care of the wants
of the inner man during the midnight hours. Located in
an old mansion on Michigan Boulevard, a mile or so south
of the Loop, Paul's has been for years a popular gather-
ing-place of the town's bons vivants and gourmets after
the theatre. Notables of the stage, the sport world and
of political life are seen here often. The last time Tito
Schipa, the opera singer, ate here he brought along his
friend, Renato Gardini, the great Italian wrestler. Primo

83

Camera, the fighter, has eaten here, too. And there are
plenty of others, both of local and national fame.

Not a little of the attractiveness of this place is to be
found in the chef, Frank Simonetti, who used to be cook
aboard one of Sir Thomas Lipton's yachts. Frank's skill
in the cooking of those highly edible specialties of the
house — Risotto Milanaise au Saffron, either with truffles
or mushrooms; Scallopine a la Monte Vesuvius; whole
chicken en casserole or broiled jumbo squab with jelly —
explains why people like to come here. Too, another draw-
ing card is Signor Paul Bergamini, the proprietor, who is
a host par excellence. He has been a restaurateur in Chi-
cago for many years, and has hundreds of friends all over
town.

Although this is strictly a place for food, Paul's also
features what it calls the Club Galant, a small room set
aside for music and dancing and an occasional floor show.
There is no extra cover charge in the Club Galant and you
may amuse yourself in this charmingly decorated room
from 9 P. M. until closing. The menu is sufficiently large
to be interesting, displaying a dozen Italian specialties,
and the waiters are trained in the best Continental tradi-
tions. Mr. Bergamini's wife is a native of Switzerland,
and sometimes you may get Swiss viands if you know
what you want and the management is in the mood.
Paul's is a thoroughly worth-while place.

Paul's Italian- American

1715 South Michigan Boulevard

Open from luncheon until the first peek of dawn

84

special table d'hote dinner, $1.50, Also a la carte
Mattre d'hotel: Paul Bergamini

LITTLE JACK'S

Little Jack of Madison Street

Twenty-five years ago "Little Jack" Levin sold sand-
wiches in a small West Madison Street shop to students
at the Lewis Institute and numerous medical schools that
abounded on the west side. Today, further west on Mad-
ison Street, "Little Jack" Levin conducts one of the
leading restaurants in Chicago, the rendezvous of Chi-
cago's officialdom and the bright particular star of gour-
mets from all over town. It was food, the best quality of
food prepared in the best possible manner, and food only,
that put Little Jack's on the gastronomic map of Chi-
cago.

This house offers no specialties. "Every item is a
specialty with us," explains Jack Levin. His menu is large
and varied and tempting with steaks, chops, sea foods,
poultry, salads and pastry. The Sirloin Steak a la Little
Jack is tender, juicy and done to the proper turn; the im-
ported Russian caviar is something not to be missed;
chicken stew, Spanish style en casserole, as served here,
cannot be duplicated; and the broiled jumbo whitefish is
on a par with that of the best sea food restaurants in
town. Little Jack's features daily specials as well as a va-
ried assortment of pies, cakes and pastries from its own

85

ovens. The outstanding impression you get from Little
Jack's is food of fresh wholesome quahty, expertly pre-
pared.

Small wonder, then, that city officials, from the Mayor
down, and politicians of every type and degree, have
made Little Jack's their rendezvous. Here, any evening,
you're likely to run into them — Mayor Anton Cermak,
Commissioner of Police John Alcock, Sheriff William
D. Meyering, Coroner Herman N. Bundesen, State's
Attorney John A. Swanson, Bailiff Al Horan, Presi-
dent W, R. James of the West Park Board, Governor
Louis L. Emmerson, Former Commissioner of PoHce
Morgan A. Collins, Colonel A. L. Brodie of the American
Legion, Police Captain John Prendergast, and Coroner's
Physician L M. Fienberg. Stars of the newspaper and
theatrical world come here too. It seems that everybody
of any importance in the official life of Chicago knows
Little Jack Levin, who has a flair for hospitality hard
to match.

You'll find this place a real treat and if it be a hot sum-
mer's evening, the atmosphere of the various dining rooms
will be air-cooled; if you come in your car there is park-
ing space at the rear of the establishment. And don't
forget to shake hands with "Little Jack" himself. He'll
be glad to see you.

Little Jack's American

3175 West Madison Street

Open all the time

86

Plate lunch, 50 cents. Table d^hote dinner, $1,00. Also
a la carte and surprisingly reasonable

Mattre d^hotel: Jack Levin

MERCHANDISE MART
RESTAURANTS

10,000 Persons a Day ^

By all means visit one of the Merchandise Mart restau-
rants— preferably the Coflfee Shop. Try it just for the
sake of contrast with the many quiet little restaurants
you have been dining in around town. It's a gustatory
adventure you'll not easily forget. And don't be afraid
your stomach will suffer as a result of this excursion, for
the food served in the Merchandise Mart restaurants is of
surprisingly good quality considering such a vast output
— they have facilities for handling 10,000 persons a day.

The Coffee Shop is the largest of its kind in the
world. Now we've been and said it. Smile indulgently if
you must at the familiar Chicago boast, ''largest in the
world;" but we'll wager that you will believe it once
you put foot inside this vast, typically American,
eating hall. What other coffee shop in the country
has over 800 feet of table-high lunch counter and 68
additional feet of soda fountain counter? Smile, too, at
this dragging in of figures, but we think they give some
idea of the magnitude of the restaurant.

Here is the apex of quantity production in food; here
is quick and efficient service; here are all the latest devices
and contraptions of the up-to-date restaurant. The great

87

distance from far counters to the main kitchen is over-
come by means of a "service" kitchen. The big room is
pleasantly decorated, the seats are comfortable, and there
is plenty of "elbow room." In short, here Is the modern
American coflfee shop In Its highest state of perfection.

Naturally, the Coflfee Shop receives the heaviest "play"
of the Merchandise Mart restaurants. Wliat greater con-
venience could be found in the way of eating for the
thousands of workers in the building — which, by the way,
is the largest building in the world In point of floor space
— than this Coflfee Shop on the ground floor, overlooking
North Bank Way and the Chicago River? The plate
luncheon is the most popular item on the menu, with
sandwiches of all kinds running next in demand. The
tea room Is on the mezzanine floor above.

For executives and other bigwigs of the wholesale firms
in the building, there are two excellent dining rooms — the
Governor's Room and the Old English Grill, each seating
about 300 persons. The Governor's Room is very formal,
luxurious and quiet, while the Old English Grill Is tavern-
like, with Its oaken walls and beamed ceiling. And don't
forget, this Grill Is for men only — and all the waitresses
are blonde. What more could a good substantial American
go-getting salesman want than to have a pretty blonde
waitress serve him his steak and French fried! The Grill
offers a special 75 cent club luncheon, as well as an a la
carte menu containing Chef Pierre Berard's recommenda-
tions'—a feature on the menus of all the other restaurants
in the building.

And to think that only one hundred years ago there
stood on the site of the Merchandise Mart a little old log

88

cabin, Wolf Tavern, purveying food and drink to the
villagers of the little settlement across the river.

Merchandise Mart Restaurants American

Wells Street and North Bank Way

Coffee Shop open from 1 1 AM, to 2:30 P.M. Tea Room
from 11 A.M. to 3:00 P.M. Governor's Room from
1 1 A.M. to 8:30 P.M. Old English Grill from 1 1 A.M. to
2:30 P.M.

A la carte, table d'hote, plate lunches — all reasonable

WEISS'

La Cuisine Yiennoise

Although you may have nothing to do whatever with
cloaks and suits in wholesale quantities, yet it is eminently
worth your while to trek over to Chicago's wholesale dis-
trict at the west end of the Loop for a meal at the Weiss
restaurant. Alex Weiss has been caterer to the town's
wholesalers for over twenty years, his clientele being made
up largely of the executives and heads of the wholesale
firms in the district.

Viennese cooking is featured at this place, the kitchen
being in the capable hands of Chef Theodore Huber, a
product of Austro-Hungarian restaurants. Therefore, the
fresh paprika pike with steamed potato is worth the trip
over here; the Hungarian lamb goulash with baked
noodles makes you love this place; the gefiilte fish is in-

89

comparable; the matzos pancake with currant jelly can-
not be praised too highly; and the apple strudel is a des-
sert that eminently deserves to be called dessert. The
French and Danish pastries come from the restaurant's
ovens and are always fresh.

The establishment is divided into several dining rooms,
all decorated in good style and with no artificial effects to
catch the eye of the passing pedestrian. Weiss' reputation
for good food is sufficient advertising. The main dining
room is on the first floor, a popular-priced lunch counter
is in the basement, and the second floor contains the tea
room.

Weiss Kestatirant Austro-Htmgarian and American

208 West Adams Street

Open for luncheon and dinner

Mattre d^ hotel: Alex Weiss

GIRO'S GRILL

Resort of Fashion

As everyone knows, there is a Giro's in Paris, one in Monte
Carlo, one in Deauville, and one in London. But not
everyone knows that there is also a Giro's in Ghicago. It,
too, is a swanky place, the haunt of Chicago's beau
monde, just as the European places are the rendezvous of
fashionables. The London and Ghicago establishments, if
you care to know, have no connection with each other or

90

with the French establishments of the same name.

We don't know which of the following is the reason
for the frequent presence of Chicago millionaires, dowa-
gers, debutantes, and dandies in Giro's during dinner
time. It might be due to the excellent French cuisine; or
maybe to the fact that the exclusive Opera Club happens
to be located on the floor above; or to its delightfully in-
timate atmosphere. The restaurant is small and cozy and
unique in decor. Also, it is conveniently located near the
Gold Coast. Last, but not least, its prices are alluringly

high.

Anyway, for whatever reason. Giro's Grill is foremost
of the resorts of fashion. If you're a connoisseur of auto-
mobiles and wish to observe the most luxurious foreign
models, walk past Giro's any evening during the winter
months and feast your eyes on the cars parked at the curb.

Why winter months? Because Giro's follows the social
season and is closed during the torrid days of summer.
Having a small but very exclusive clientele, this place
would be empty in summer when everybody who is any-
body in the social world is out of town.

Then you wouldn't be seeing such frequent diners as
John Borden, the millionaire explorer, and his authoress-
wife, Courtney Borden; Cyrus Hall McCormick, head
of the International Harvester Company; Burt Massee,
another millionaire explorer, and Mrs. Massee; the two
opera singers, Gyrena Van Gorden and Edith Mason; and
Georgio Polacco, the opera conductor. Of course, these are
only a few of the wealthy and celebrated people who come
here. There are many more.

As for the decor, Giro's is tasteful and novel, the motif
being that of a submarine garden. Fishes in gay colors and

91

decorative undersea plants are painted on the walls. In-
verted lighting is used here by suspending bowls of gold
fishes under the electric bulbs — which must be rather
hard on the fishes. The whole atmosphere of the room is
charmingly intimate, quiet, novel, and colorful.

The a la carte menu is inviting, both in variety of dishes
and quality, and the service is suave and Continental.
Try Giro's some evening when your purse is sufficiently
fat. And you needn't go formally, although you would
not be out of place if you did.

Giro's Grill Franco- American

ISWestWaltonPlace

Table d'hote luncheon, $1.00. Table d'hote dinner, $2.50
Also a la carte — and pretty high

Open for luncheon and dinner

MAISONETTE RUSSE

Introducing Colonel Yaschenko

Meet Colonel Vladimir Yaschenko, formerly of the Rus-
sian White Army, formerly of the Petrushka Club on
Michigan Boulevard, and now the man responsible for
admirable Russian food specialties at the Maisonette
Russe. Polite, gentlemanly, suave, having all the refine-
ment of a Russian reared amid the military pomp of the
Czars, Colonel Yaschenko reflects true Continental hos-
pitality as he welcomes you into his Russian restaurant,

92

located in an impressive old town house on Lake Shore
Drive, facing Lincoln Park.

The room is appropriately decorated in the Muscovite
manner. The hangings are of dark blue, with touches of
orange here and there; shelves at intervals contain old
pewter pieces made especially for the Maisonette Russe (so
we are told) by exiled Russian officers in Paris — pewter
vases, weddiag cups, loving cups, and long '^dipper" cups.
Mme. Yaschenko says these "dipper" cups were like the
ones they used to drink wine out of in Russia. As a final
bit of atmosphere, and adding considerably to your pleas-
ure in this place, there is music and entertainment by the
Gypsy Trio, in Russian costume, quite dashing and color-
ful.

As for the victuals, see Colonel Yaschenko! He will
initiate you into the mysteries of Russian dishes; and
when the meal is over you'll find they are not so mysteri-
ous after all. For example, there is borscht — a thick red
soup made of beets, rich in flavor; Bitochki a la Scobeleflf,
which is chopped chicken cutlets with truffle sauce; a
lamb barbecued on skewers and known as Shashlik a la
Kars, and Tournedeau Rossini, similar to filet mignon.
And there are lots of other delicacies on the menu.

In summer time, you may dine in a truly Continental
manner at the Maisonette Russe, for Colonel Yaschenko
has tables in the garden among the flowers and shrubbery,
where luncheon and dinner are served. Gay-colored um-
brellas are mounted over the tables and all is quite Eu-
ropean and sophisticated.

Maisonette Russe Russian

2800 Sheridan Road

93

open for luncheon and dinner

Both table d'hote and a la carte. Table d*hote dinner , $1,50
Sunday dinner, $2.00

Mattre d'hotel: Colonel Vladimir Yaschenko

BOSTON OYSTER HOUSE

Ancient, But New

In 1875, when men were men and women were women,
and Chicago was rebuilding itself after the great fire of
two years earlier, Colonel John S. Wilson founded Wil-
son's Oyster House in the basement of a building at
Clark and Madison Streets. Then he changed the name to
the Boston Oyster House — a name which has remained to
this day. His specialty was shell fish. Colonel John S.
Wilson now occupies a place in local history as the first
caterer to serve live lobsters in this region. His restaurant
and his lobsters soon attracted attention and in time the
Boston Oyster House became the rendezvous of the Four
Hundred of that day.

The cashier was a young man of likable personality.
His name was Charles E. Rector. Later he became man-
ager of the establishment. Then he gave up his connection
with Colonel Wilson to accept a position as head caterer
for a railroad. Some years later he opened a basement
oyster house of his own at Clark and Monroe Streets.
This place soon eclipsed the Boston Oyster House in popu-
larity and Rector's became the Mecca of Chicago's night

94

life. Seeking new worlds to conquer, Rector opened a
restaurant in New York City and . . . but need we go on?
After all, we're writing about the Boston Oyster House.

Then, in 1899, Harry C. Moir became manager of the
Boston Oyster House and the old eight-story Morrison
Hotel that rose above it. Prominent citizens continued to
foregather here. Writers came. That old Kentucky philos-
opher, Opie Read, sat here and talked with friends in the
days when he was a newspaperman and before he be-
came famous as a novelist. Came also Senator James
Hamilton Lewis, whiskers and all, and Edward F. Dunne,
before he became governor of Illinois. Finley Peter Dunne,
creator of **Mr. Dooley," and the late Fred A. Chappell,
writer and philosopher, were other frequenters. And
there are many who recall the International Live Stock
shows of those days, when the stockmen and cowboys
from the wild west would wind up a night amid the
bright lights of the Loop with a 6 A. M. breakfast at the
Boston, consisting of two dozen oysters on the half shell.

This place continued through the years in its basement
location. In 1925 a new Boston Oyster House blossomed
forth under the auspices of Gus and Fred Mann, well-
known Chicago restaurateurs. It was fitted out to look
like a ship's cabin — at a cost of $200,000. But alas, the
Mann brothers were unable to get a return on their in-
vestment and the Boston Oyster House once more fell
back into the hands of Harry Moir.

Today, the Boston Oyster House is an elegant basement
dining room of the Morrison — sans marine trappings.
All that remains of the original establishment is the name.
True, sea food is still served, with lobsters as a specialty,
but Chicagoans do not go to this place for sea food or

95

lobsters as they did in the old days. There are too many
other sea food restaurants in town now.

But we don't wish to imply that the sea foods here are
second rate; you will find them as good as any in Chicago.
And there are other savory dishes — for example, Pearl's
Special, consisting of porterhouse steak and baked potato
and named after Pearl Kuntz, who has been head waitress
here for over ten years. They have a large menu, the food
is wholesome, the waitresses are fleet of foot and polite,
the surroundings restful; and, should you come here, you
may tell your friends back home in Chillicothe that
you've dined in Chicago's famous Boston Oyster House.

The Boston Oyster House American

21 South Clark Street

Open for breakfast, luncheon and dinner

Table d'hote and a la carte — average prices

Maitresse d'hotel: Pearl Kuntz

LINCOLN PARK REFECTORY
Pot Roast Among the Trees

After a hot, feverish, August day in the Loop, when the
skyscrapers and the street-cars and the dust have sapped
your energy, there is no greater relief than to take your
wife, or your children, or your lady friend, to dinner in
the Lincoln Park Refectory, an open-air eating place

96

among the trees of Lincoln Park, overlooking the pleasant
sunset-tinted waters of the park lagoon.

Here, you may have your delicious pot roast, with
noodles and cheese, amid the cooling breezes of the sum-
mer evening; the planked Lake Superior whitefish tastes
twice as good under the summer stars; and the Lincoln
Park special minute steak is something to remember when
you eat it against a background of dewy evening trees,
boats on a lagoon and a faraway horizon of lighted apart-
ment hotels. All is poetry and romance at the Lincoln
Park Refectory.

For thirty years, Chicagoans of high and low degree
have been dining on the open terraces of this establish-
ment. It is a favorite place for women's clubs; "Kaflfee
Klatches** are common here during July and August after-
noons; Gold Coast women come here for tea; at dinner
you'll find many of Chicago's substantial business men
and civic leaders among the diners. George Schneider, the
well-known lawyer and bibliophile, says that it is the
most European-like restaurant in Chicago — and he ought
to know, being a veteran globe-trotter.

Caspar Brauer, proprietor of the Lincoln Park Refec-
tory, is one of the old-time restaurateurs of Chicago and
is ever solicitous of the gastronomic whims of his patrons.
Many of them are old friends of the Brauer brothers,
whose Cafe Brauer on State Street, near Van Buren, was
a leading restaurant of the Gay Nineties. Paul died a few
years ago and Caspar is carrying on the family catering
traditions most successfully in this dining place among
the trees.

The menu is comprehensive, featuring sea foods, steaks
and chops, cold dishes, roasts, poultry, sandwiches and

97

cold soft drinks; the waitresses are attentive; the cooking
is expert; and the surroundings, as we told you before but
which can bear repetition, are perfect for a pleasurable
evening dinner.

Lincoln Park Refectory American

Lincoln Park, foot of Center Street

Open from 10 A. M. to 9 P. M., between May 1 5 and
September 1 5

Plate luncheon, 75 cents. Table d^hote dinner, $1.50
Also a la carte

Maitre d'botel: Caspar Brauer

PARKER'S

For Hyde Parkers — and Others

Mr. and Mrs. Charles G. Parker have been caterers to the
south side ever since that day when Charles A. Comiskey,
"The Old Roman" of baseball fame, came into their
delicatessen store at 36th Street and Cottage Grove Ave-
nue and ordered a sandwich. That was over thirty-five
years ago. Comiskey brought his friends to the Parker
store and soon the proprietors had to change it into a
restaurant. The food was of the best quality and well
cooked. When the neighborhood changed its complexion,
the Parkers moved farther south to Hyde Park. They now
have an attractive restaurant on Hyde Park Boulevard,

98

across the street from the historic Hyde Park Hotel,
serving food of the highest standards and skillfully
cooked. This was the favorite dining place of the late
Chicago novelist, Clara Louise Burnham, and Charles S.
Deneen, former senator of Illinois, comes in often. The
oyster cocktails, fried chicken, clam chowder, and lemon
cream pies are worth going a long distance for. An excel-
lent dinner of English beef stew with pickled walnuts can
be had here. Parker's caters to genteel old-time residents
of genteel old-time Hyde Park and is also patronized by
University of Chicago students and professors — as well as
by lovers of good meals from everywhere. Women are
not permitted to smoke. yVViA^i.-iA a

Parker's American

1510 Hyde Park Boulevard

Open for luncheon and dinner

Table d'hote luncheon, 60 cents. Table d'hote dinner,
$1.00

Maitresse d'hotel: Anna Flagg

ROCOCO HOUSE

— And Smorgasbord

True to her philosophy of "believing in cooking as a cul-
tural enterprise," Mrs. Rose Palm has made of the Rococo
House an outstanding restaurant of the city. For Mrs.

99

Palm is a culinary artist and a superb hostess, years ago she
studied the art of cooking in the famous Prunier's of
Paris. Many of the recipes of that restaurant are used by
her in preparing fish and game. Her deHghtful Swedish
smogasbord — that "board" in the center of the dining
room laden with Swedish hors d'ceuvres and from which
you may help yourself to your heart's content — daily
attracts scores of people from the near north side and the
Upper Michigan Boulevard area — stenographers, artists,
advertising men, debutantes, ladies with lorgnettes and
the foreign consuls of the neighborhood.

There is nothing strange or foreign about Swedish hors
d'ceuvres; the table contains all the familiar appetizers on
big pewter plates — sausages, olives, celery, cheeses, sar-
dines, salads, herring, beets and lots of other items. You
may make up a complete meal from the smorgasbord, or
you may have a waitress serve you at one of the tables. It
is not the uniqueness of the smorgasbord, however, that
attracts the patrons, but rather the savoriness of the
foods obtainable from it.

A contributing factor to the popularity of the Rococo
House is its charming decor, done as it is in the "peasant
rococo" style. The Swedish waitresses are in appropriate
costume; articles of Swedish arts and crafts are displayed
on shelves; the hand- woven curtains and table linens are
from Stockholm; the candlesticks (holding real lighted
candles) are the work of Scandinavian potters, and the
ship's model, suspended from the ceiling, is typical and
authentic, being a "good luck" gift to Mr. and Mrs. Palm
from their friend, Carl Milles, the noted Swedish sculptor.

Male patrons prefer the new Men's Grill, while women
foregather in the upstairs dining room. The latter room,

100

in addition to having rococo style chairs and tables, is
also notable for the numerous original oil paintings by
the Swedish painter, Malmstrom. Afternoon tea with
French pastry has become popular with the ladies here —
and a better room could not be found for such purpose.

Dining at Rococo House is a real esthetic adventure and
you would be missing something if you failed to have a
meal here. And don't forget to look over Mr. Palm*s mar-
velous collection of modern Swedish furniture and objets
d'art, which are on sale in an adjoining room.

Rococo House Swedish-American

161 East Ohio Street

Open for luncheon and dinner until 9 V.M.

Luncheon, 50 and 75 cents. Dinner, $1.50 and $1.75

Maitresse d'hotel: Mrs. Rose Palm

CHEZ LOUIS

Cuisine for the Epicure

No other restaurateur in town has been able to build up
a more fashionable following than has M. Louis StefiFen,
the debonair Franco-Swiss proprietor of Chez Louis.
Since opening this elaborate dining place, a short while ago,
in an old town house, just off the boulevard, Louis has
had no difficulty in retaining the exclusive clientele who
came to his board when he was proprietor of Ciro's Grill.

101

Ermine wraps, silk toppers, diamonds and town cars are
as much in evidence here as they are at Giro's.

There are two reasons why the dowagers and milHon-
aires and debutantes of the Gold Goast come to this new-
est of Ghicago's public dining salons — Louis himself, and
his chef, Rene Seurin. A combination like this cannot be
excelled for attracting knowing epicures and the town-
wise — Louis, with his suave Gontinental manner, his
youthful dash, his rare good taste in providing the un-
usual in decor y and M. Rene Seurin, of Bordeaux, trained
in the kitchens of Paris and as skillful in the culinary art
as Bach was in the art of music.

Naturally, with two such men as these in charge,
French dishes would be featured at Ghez Louis — and so
they are. Many of the popular delicacies of Parisian tables,
together with certain specialites de la maison from the
hands of Ghef Rene, make your evening at Ghez Louis
memorable. The foods, in point of quality and prepara-
tion, would pass the severest test. The Ghez Louis is a
charming place to visit for dinner; the prices are not so
high as you might think; the service is genuinely Gon-
tinental and completely satisfying, and the Ghicken Salad
a la Louis — well, try it yourself.

Chez Louis Franco- American

120 East Pearson Street

Table d'hote luncheon, $ LOO. Table d'hote dinner, $2.50
Also a la carte

Open for luncheon, dinner and after-theatre supper

Mattre d' hotel: Louis Steffen

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MORE GASTRONOMICAL
LOCATIONS

BERGHOFF'S, 17 West Adams Street. Pig's knuckles
and sauerkraut, Thueringer sausage and red cabbage and
other such heavy Teutonic dishes served appetizingly in
this old landmark of the Loop . . . EAT SHOP CAFE-
TERIA, 6 East Lake Street. First-rate vegetables, a small
orchestra at dinner hour, and once a hang-out of Carl
Sandburg, the poet and his pal, Lloyd Lewis, the drama
critic . . . NEGRI ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 123
West Madison Street. One flight down, good spaghetti,
and tables filled with stenographers and office help . . .
POTTHAST'S, 4 West Van Buren Street. Another one-
flight-downer, featuring solid German dishes for years
and known to almost everybody at the! south end of the
Loop . . . SAUERMAN'S, 545 North Clark Street. Old-
time atmosphere and substantial old-fashioned Germanic
victuals. A landmark on North Clark Street, formerly
John Fein*s place. Executives and business men of the
neighborhood are patrons . . . FOO CHOW CHINESE
RESTAURANT, 411 South Clark Street. Sole survivor
of Chicago's old "Chinatown" in South Clark Street.
Chop suey and chow mein, those popular American
dishes, served here on teakwood tables inlaid with mother-
of-pearl. Still popular for after the theatre, because it is
not as far from the Loop as restaurants in the new "China-
town" on 22nd Street . . . RIVIERA ITALIAN RES-
TAURANT, 540 South Wabash Avenue. Although the

103

opera has deserted the old Auditorium Theatre, around
the corner, the Riviera still remains an after-opera rendez-
vous. The Italian food is eloquent testimony that the
chef knows his business, and Milton Fairman, of the
Herald and Examiner and an expert on Italian a la cartes,
swears that it is one of the best in town . . . THE ALPS,
across the street from the Riviera. More Italian food, and
having its own clientele from some of the South Michigan
Boulevard hotels . . . GERMAN RESTAURANT, 327
Plymouth Court. The name explains everything. A small,
high-class eating parlor in quiet surroundings . . . CAFE
FRANCAISE, 1922 Calumet Avenue. Excellent French
cuisine; best filet mignon in town; occupies one of the
stately old mansions in this deserted "Gold Coast" area;
and caters to executives from some of the publishing
houses nearby. . . VILLA SPIRO, 4646 Drexel Boule-
vard. A little old cottage among tall apartment houses.
A rendezvous for south side connoisseurs of table delica-
cies. . . GENOA INN, 503 5 Lake Park Avenue. A good
French-Italian cuisine for south siders. . . BOVERI ITA-
LIAN RESTAURANT, 1645 East 53 rd Street. Another
south side dining place, featuring the viands of Naples
and Rome. . . LOBSTER ISLAND CAFE, 63 54 Cottage
Grove Avenue. Sea food that is really sea food. . . HYDE
PARK HOTEL, Lake Park Avenue and Hyde Park
Boulevard. Wonderful victuals, courteous colored wait-
ers and an old-fashioned Victorian atmosphere redolent
of World's Fair days in '93. . . LINCOLN GARDENS
ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 1524 North Clark Street.
Spaghetti and veal scallopine are noteworthy, and Joe
Blatk, proprietor, has cleverly fixed the place up to look
like a Venetian garden or something. . . AQUARIUM

104

RESTAURANT, 316 South Wells Street. Specializing
in sea foods that are skillfully prepared. Atmosphere is
quiet, and surroundings are decorative and tasteful. . .
LEIGHTON'S RESTAURANT, 73 East Lake Street.
Good food, quiet atmosphere, agreeable service. Con-
venient to Michigan Boulevard. Turkey and chicken and
pastries are specialties. Excellent hot and cold delicacies
"after the show." . . . DORIE'S, 65 East South Water
Street. Another first-class dining room, just around the
corner from the boulevard. Hungarian, Jewish, German,
English, and American cooking. Decorated in the Rus-
sian style. . . E AND M RESTAURANT, 3216 West
Roosevelt Road. Popular eating place of the west side,
conducted by Davey Miller, the sportsman and fight ref-
eree. Twenty-four hour service and as many varieties of
victuals. And don't forget to dine in the "Log Cabin"
room. . . DINING ROOMS OF THREE LOTT HO-
TELS: THE PARKWAY, 2100 Lincoln Park West;
THE WEBSTER, 2150 Lincoln Park West; THE BEL-
DEN-STRATFORD, 2300 Lincoln Park West. Three
fashionable dining rooms, serving foods fit for a king and
all under the expert eye of Arnold Shircliffe, catering
manager and author of "The Edgewater Beach Hotel
Salad Book," an outstanding treatise on salads. . . HOME-
WOOD RESTAURANT, 605 Diversey Parkway.
Wholesome dishes. Renaissance interior; patronized by
residents of apartment hotels in vicinity and mentioned
in "Diversey," McKinley Kantor's novel of Chicago
life. . . MILANO ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 2723
North Clark Street. Plenty of spaghetti and popular
among gay set of Diversey Parkway neighborhood. . .
RICKETT'S, 2727 North Clark Street. They come here

105

for steaks, which are admirable, and for a snack after the
theatre. . . GOLD'S, on Broadway, near Diversey. Where
Jewish people eat you will always find good food, and
this applies to Gold's. . .AQUARIUM CAFE, 514 Diver-
sey Parkway. Excellent sea foods for the mid-north
side. . . BELMONT HOTEL, 3156 Sheridan Road. A
grand cuisine in the main dining room, very fashionable,
and you'd feel more at home in formal dress.

106

RIALTO TABLES

When the tungstens and the neons at dusk change
Randolph Street into a world of gaudy incandescence;
when you have arrived in this Great White Way with
your companion for an evening at the theatre; when you
have finally found a place to park your car and once
more reassured yourself that the theatre tickets are still
in your coat pocket; and, lastly, when you and the fair
lady with you begin to feel that familiar inner void at
this time of day, then the restaurants of the Rialto
beckon most invitingly. It is the hour before curtain
time. You are bent on making the most of it. Therefore,
your thoughts turn to that most delightful of all cur-
tain-raisers for an evening out — a good dinner.

But where to go? And what to eat? These are ques-
tions that demand answers quickly, for your time is
limited. You look about. On every hand are orange huts,
oyster bars, candy shops, red-hot stands, one-arm joints,
barbecue eateries and other similar fly-by-night filling
stations. True, you note a formal restaurant here and
there — but what does it serve? What are the specialties
on its menu? And how about the dining rooms of the

107

theatre district hotels? Also, where may one dine and
dance at the same time?

These are questions that we have tried to answer in
the following selection of Rialto restaurants. They are
of all types and varieties — some old, some new; a few
foreign but most of them domestic; in hotels and along
the side streets — but all of them serve foods of the best
quality and you are sure of receiving the utmost in cour-
teous treatment.

BISMARCK DINING ROOM

171 West Randolph Street
A bulwark of German culinary art in the theatrical
district. Koenigsberger klops, Wiener schnitzel, German
potato pancakes, Hamburger steak, pork shanks and
sauerkraut, sauerbraten and kartoff el kloesse — all the ap-
petizing and substantial dishes of the hardy Teuton await
you in the dining room of this historic Randolph Street
hotel. And every one of the items on the comprehensive
menu bears the stamp of that incomparable German
chef, Fritz Mattmueller, who has been with this establish-
ment for over thirty-three years and who has maintained
the same high standard of cooking during all this time.

For this reason, and several others, the Bismarck din-
ing room has been the favorite rendezvous of German-
Americans of all classes ever since the World's Fair in
1893. Here, also, all visiting German celebrities are en-
tertained and banqueted — Dr. Hugo Eckener, the air
pilot; Julius Meier Graefe, the art critic; Count Von
Luckner, the sea devil; the German transatlantic flyers;
German opera singers and stage stars; and visiting mem-

108

bers of the German diplomatic corps, from the am-
bassador down.

The Bismarck dominates "German Square," as the
intersection of La Salle and Randolph Streets, at the west
end of the Rialto, has been nicknamed. German shops,
steamship offices, and clubs are on every hand and every-
body connected with them dines at the Bismarck. So do
many of the officials from the City Hall nearby, as well
as the theatrical stars.

Nowhere this side of Berlin can you find more charm-
ing examples of German modernist art, as applied to in-
terior decoration, than in the main dining room of the
Bismarck. Karl and Emil Eitel, who built the present
hotel in 1927 on the site of the old Bismarck, imported
from Germany many of the latest ideas and effects in
restaurant ornamentation, with the result that all is rest-
ful, artistic, and novel in the main dining room. Its
modernist decoration has plenty of curves to beguile the
eye of the most hardened conservative, grown weary of
squares and angles. Brass chandeliers made in Berlin de-
pend from the ceiling; the walls are of hand-carved
walnut; and Gobelin tapestries hang at each side of the
mantel in the south wall. And at dinner you may dance
to the music of Art Kassel's orchestra.

For real old-style peasant atmosphere, however, dine
in the picturesque Dutch Room on the third floor. The
same menu, with the same prices, is used in this room as
in the dining room. Another interesting dinner place
here is the Flamingo Room, done in vivid red and deco-
rated with highly-polished brass work.
Mattre d'botel: Otto Hurting

109

BOLLARD & FRAZIER'S CHOP HOUSE

20 West Lake Street
In this age of the equaUty of sexes, Bollard & Frazier's
historic chop house and sea food restaurant stands out
like a Gibraltar of masculinity. Stubbornly and con-
sistently, down the years, it has refused its fine cuisine to
Milady, remaining one of the last of the stag restaurants
in Chicago. Therefore, it has become the sportsmen's
headquarters of the Loop. Contiguous to the Randolph
Street theatrical district, it is also a popular gathering
place for actors, race horse fans, newspapermen and poli-
ticians.

Here, you may dine on the same bar (as well as at
tables) which did service over a generation ago in George
Bollard's famous old Edelweiss Buffet in South Wabash
Avenue. Located next door to Von Lengerke &
Antoine's, the pioneer sporting goods house, the Edel-
weiss attracted huntsmen, fishermen and trap-shooters.
Nowadays, they come to George Bollard's place on Lake
Street. Jess Frazier, the other member of the firm, is
himself a hunter of no small ability. Photographs of
famed trap-shooters line the walls; stuffed samples of
tarpon, brook trout and "muskies" are also displayed;
and the atmosphere is thick with cigar smoke.

This is a favorite dining place for Sidney Smith, Sol
Hess, and S. L. (**Mescal Ike") Huntley, the newspaper
comic strip artist; Clark Rodenbach, the movie critic;
Bob Becker, editor of "Field and Stream" in the Chicago
Tribune; Lloyd Lewis, the drama critic and writer;
Jimmy Murphy, dean of police reporters; William Hale
Thompson, former mayor and yachtsman; Con Rourke,

110

the political writer; Charley Ellison, the race horse owner;
and Sam Lederer, the noted press agent.

For the names of any other celebrities who dine here
you will have to see Jimmy Morris, who has been with
Mr. Bollard for fourteen years and who knows everybody
in the Loop worth knowing. Jimmy will also help you
in making selections from the Bollard & Frazier menu.
The steaks, chops, and sea foods, prepared under the ex-
pert eye of Chef Carrodi Arrigoni, are incomparable for
their savoriness. Meals are a la carte and prices within
reason.

MaUre d^ hotel: Jimmy Morris

LINDY'S 75 West Randolph Street

Situated in the heart of showland, Lindy's is one of
the most popular theatrical restaurants in town. Go
there any hour of the day or night (it never closes) and
you will be certain to find some star from a current show,
or a host of near-stars and satellites. Sam Horwitz, the
entertaining proprietor, is well known to them all. Mostly
you will find them here after the show, from midnight
on — dining, laughing, telling stories, greeting each other
or partaking of Sam's toothsome after-theatre specialties.
That group over there in one of the booths under the
mezzanine, exploding in laughter at frequent intervals,
might be listening to stories from the lips of Julius
Tannen, the comedian. Or those two jovial fellows in
the corner might be that incomparable team of fun-
makers — Clark and McCullough. Others come here when
they are playing in Chicago — Eddie Cantor, Al Jolson,
Sophie Tucker, Fanny Brice, Herbert Rawlinson, Texas

111

Guinan, Rudy Vallee, Phil Baker, George White, Georgie
Jessel.

Many local newspapermen eat here; also such noted
Randolph Streeters as Milton Weil, the music publisher;
Phil R. Davis, the poet and divorce lawyer for theatrical
people; Gail Borden, the columnist; and Sam Gershwin,
the theatrical advertising man. They all come because
they like Sam Horwitz and his foods. Sam, by the way,
was the founder of the original Lindy's in New York
City.

Emil, who made a name for himself as chef in De
Jonghe's famous old Chicago restaurant, presides over
Sam's kitchen and is responsible for the popularity of
those after-theatre specialties — Italian spaghetti with
mushrooms, Chinese chop suey, French pancakes, Emil's
special chicken a la king, German potato pancakes,
fried New York counts, kosher frankfurter sausages,
American ham and eggs, shrimp salad a la Russe, and
Mexican chicken chili con carne. The service in Lindy's
is quiet and quick and the waitresses are always helpful.
There is a $1.75 table d'hote dinner that is commendable.
The a la carte is less expensive.
Mattre d'botel: Sam Horwitz

PETE'S STEAKS 161 North Dearborn Street

There is nothing inviting about the exterior of this
place. A blunt ordinary sign out front merely announces
"Pete's Steaks." Glancing through the window, you see
only an ordinary white-tiled counter lunch room. No-
where is there any outward hint of the inward culinary
delights of this small, unpretentious Dearborn Street
restaurant, a few feet north of Randolph.

112

. But go inside, mount the steps at the rear to the gallery,
and you will find yourself in a unique^ dining room — long,
narrow, and looking much like a dining car. Dozens of
framed photographs of noted actors and actresses, per-
sonally autographed to the proprietor and his wife, deco-
rate the walls. And the tables are crowded with gay
laughing theatrical people — vaudeville artists, chorus
girls, song boosters, press agents, box office men and, al-
most nightly, a **big time" star or two.

What brings these show people and celebrities — as well
as many other people — to this place are the steaks. And
what steaks! Thick, juicy, tender, dripping with real
butter, and smothered in a heaping mound of cottage
fried potatoes, radishes, green onions, peas and sliced
Bermuda onions, these steaks have made the proprietor,
Bill Botham, known from Broadway to Hollywood. His
place is to Chicago what Beefsteak Charlie's is to New
York. And we feel that Bill is deserving of his fame,
for to eat a Pete's Special here is to indulge in a gustatory
adventure that is rare indeed. No truer catch phrase was
ever adopted than the one Bill uses for his restaurant:
"Where Steel Knives Are Unknown."

Whenever Paul Whiteman, Al Jolson, Rudy Vallee, the
Great Nicola, Eddie Cantor, or the popular Chicago Jazz
Idol, Paul Ash, become "steak conscious" while in town,
they go to Pete's Steaks. So do many local celebrities
outside the theatrical field, notably Dr. Herman N.
Bundesen, city health commissioner and one-time mayor-
alty contender. And you may also see well-known local
newspapermen here any evening — Jim Doherty, of the
Tribune; Nate Gross, of the Times; Eddie Doherty, of
Liberty magazine; and Orville ("Doc") Dwyer, Ted

113

Tod, and Maurice Roddy, all of the Examiner. Pete's
Steaks is also the hangout of that picturesque Rialto
character, Grover (**Red") Gallagher, stage manager of
the Harris Theatre.

We know of no other restaurant in the theatre sector
where the "personal touch" is so much in evidence as in
this place. Bill has even gone further and made it a sort
of family restaurant, for his wife, Marie, assists him as
does his brother, Eddie, and his sister, Ethel. They are
all gracious hosts and hostesses and always solicitous of
the welfare of their guests. Two can dine here easily
for $4.00. Don't miss Pete's Steaks — which, by the by,
derives its name from Pete Soteros, who formerly con-
ducted a restaurant around the corner in Randolph Street
and which Bill bought out many years ago.
Mattre d^ hotel: Bill Botham

DEUTSCH'S 28 North Dearborn Street

And now we come to Louie Deutsch, caterer of Jewish
edibles to the Rialto. For over sixteen years, in his
Dearborn Street restaurant and delicatessen store, Louie
has been purveying most delectable dishes — chopped liver
with schmaltz, spitz brust and sauerkraut, gefulte fish,
schnitzel a la Holstein, steaks and chops, and tooth-
some pastries — to many an actor, actress, lawyer, judge,
financier, clerk, and stenographer. And not only do
Jewish people eat here, but gentiles from all parts of the
Loop come to enjoy Louie's excellent cuisine.

Louie is our idea of the perfect restaurateur.
He takes a personal interest in the whole establishment —
counters, tables, kitchens, selection of foodstuffs, and
upstairs dining room — and is always on hand to welcome

114

a new customer or shake hands with an old one. You
will like Louie if you should be fortunate enough to meet
him — and it ought not to be hard.

Louie has lots and lots of old friends, both of high and
low degree. Adolph Zukor, the movie magnate, always
dines here when he is in town — and why shouldn't he,
Louie being his brother-in-law. Another movie magnate,
Jesse L. Lasky, partakes of Louie's board whenever he,
too, passes through Chicago. And such well-known local
movie theatre owners as Aaron Jones, Barney and Max
Balaban, and Sam Lubliner, are frequent patrons. So
also are General Milton J. Foreman, General Abel Davis,
Paul Ash, Superior Court Judge Harry B. Miller, Attor-
ney Sam Bachrach, and the great, baggy-trousered,
Clarence D arrow. For good Jewish- American cooking
try Deutsch's — and don't forget the pastries.
Maitre d* hotel: Louis Deutscb

MAULELLA RESTAURANT

786 West Taylor Street
Although a mile or two away from the Randolph
Street bright light area, being located across the river
among the tenements of "Little Italy," the Maulella
Restaurant gets into this chapter because it is a favorite
spaghetti restaurant of many persons whose names loom
large in the radio and amusement world — musicians,
radio announcers and stars, continuity writers, and
orchestra leaders.

Mike Maulella, the proprietor, who is himself one of
the leading violinists of the town, and Mrs. Teresa
Maulella, his sister-in-law, who can cook spaghetti,
chicken dishes, and ravioli with as much skill as her rela-

115

tive can handle the bow, are the ones responsible for the
name and fame of this little **one flight up" eating parlor
in the crowded Italian quarter. Everything is clean and
orderly here, the food is of good quality and cooked under
sanitary conditions, everybody knows everybody else, and
the establishment is open all night.

For these reasons, the musical and radio people come
here — Quin A. Ryan, director of Station WGN, and his
wife, Roberta Nangle of the Chicago Tribune staff; Joe
Gallicchio, conductor of the Chicago Daily News Con-
cert Orchestra; Husk O'Hare, the popular orchestra
leader; Mary Hunter, announcer over Station WGN;
Pat Gallicchio, announcer over Station WMAQ; Art
Benson, another well-known orchestra leader; Franz
Pfau, the pianist; Ennio Bolognini, the cellist, and lots
of others. You will find the Maulella Restaurant a de-
lightful and informal place, particularly at midnight. A
taxicab will bring you there in a jiffy.
Mai ire d' hotel: Mike Maulella

SCHULDER'S SEA FOOD INN

172 North Clark Street
Schulder's is the best known and most popular sea food
restaurant on the Rialto. But it has us puzzled. We
can't make up our mind as to which serves the best planked
Lake Superior whitefish in the Loop — the Rainbo Sea
Food Grotto, in South Dearborn Street, or Schulder's.
We've tried both, and the question still remains in our
mind. With your kind permission, we shift this weighty
gastronomical question to your shoulders and bid you
try to find the answer yourself.

In any case, the Lake Superior whitefish served here

116

is a milestone in your gustatory career. Such tender and
sweet-tasting food, done to just the right turn by a chef
who is nothing if not skillful. You have not tasted the
best in sea food until you have made short work of a
Lake Superior whitefish as prepared at Schulder's.

But they have other sea foods here just as thrilling. To
attempt a description of the a la carte menu — and it is
large and varied — would be like trying to name all the
fishes in Shedd Aquarium. We could devote no end of
space to eulogies over their fried Lake Michigan perch;
their Florida pompano is also excellent; and the fresh
shrimps a la De Jonghe are admirable and completely
satisfying. All forms of oysters, clams, shrimps, scallops
and crabs are here, as well as New England lobsters — from
lobster cocktail (90 cents) to lobster Bordelaise ($2.25).

Go into Schulder's any evening for dinner and you are
sure to find some luminary of the stage, or of the political
world, at one of the tables. Mike Schulder — fat and
amiable — has many friends among both classes and is
well-liked by all. There is another Schulder's establish-
ment at 17 South Dearborn Street.
Mattre d^ hotel: Mike Schulder

THE ROMA 117 North Clark Street

The Roma was not built in a day. It is, on the contrary,
the oldest Italian restaurant in Chicago's theatrical dis-
trict. Signor Virgil Nottoli, the proprietor, even goes
further and affirms that it is the oldest Italian restaurant
in the downtown district. Picking up a pencil, he will
write: five years at State and Monroe Streets, two years
at State and Congress Streets, four years at Wabash and
Congress Streets, and eighteen years at its present location,

117

117 North Clark Street. That makes a total of twenty-
nine years — more than a generation.

The reason it has lasted so long may be easily discovered
in its first-rate Italian-American cuisine. Signor Nottoli
takes a personal pride in his dishes, true restaurateur that
he is, and is always willing to point out some of the more
delectable items that his brother, Signor Frank Nottoli,
who is chef here, prepares in the kitchen. The a la carte
dinner menu is a veritable happy hunting-ground to
those fortunate persons who consider eating one of the
fine arts.

Here, you may partake of that choice Italian entree,
veal scallopine al Marsala — tender veal covered with
mushrooms and an appetizing sauce. But if you want to
taste the specialite de la tnaison order spaghetti a la Roma.
Only Signor Frank knows the secret of preparing this
highly pleasurable viand and the sauces that give it its
distinctive appeal. Another specialty of Signor Frank's
is chicken a la Cacciatore, served in hunting style.

The Roma clientele is interesting and cosmopolitan.
Among some of the frequenters are Robert Herrick, the
Chicago novelist; Rosa Raisa, the opera singer; John
("Bathhouse John") Coughlin, picturesque alderman of
the First Ward and poet laureate of the city council; and
Georgio Polacco, the opera conductor.

The Roma also gets its share of public officials, being
located across the street from the County Building and
City Hall. Mostly these are judges, officials, and attorneys
of the Italian persuasion. Theatrical people come here,
too.

Mattre d'hotel: Virgil Nottoli

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HARDING'S GRILL 131 North Clark Street

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, greatest of gourmets,
in his classic work on gastronomy, '*The Physiology of
Taste," says, in eflFect, that history has been made in
cafes and restaurants. The truth of this observation is
nowhere more fittingly illustrated in Chicago, we be-
lieve, than in Harding's Grill, on North Clark Street,
across from the County Building and City Hall and
around the corner from Randolph Street.

For during the days when Al Capone was sucking
lollypops in a New York tenement doorway, Harding's
Grill was the famed Righeimer's Bar — where Chicago
political history has been made. Need we go further
than to say that Righeimer's was the cradle of *'Big Bill"
Thompson.

Today, Righeimer's lives on — the same bar is here, the
same furnishings, the same "Ship's Cabin" upstairs, and
it is still a political rendezvous. Only the name is changed
— and the molecular density of the products offered for
consumption. For, since John P. Harding, known as
The Corned Beef King, took over Righeimer's and
changed it into a sandwich shop and restaurant, it has
become popular in the town for three things — its corned
beef and cabbage, its roast beef, and its steaks and chops.

Harding's Grill is worth visiting, both for the food and
the old-time atmosphere. They have a fine a la carte
dinner menu in the "Ship's Cabin," where you may take
your wife or sweetheart. The service in the cabin dining
room is from 5 P.M. to 11 P.M. And the waiters are
civil and alert. The whole establishment is open for
breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and after the theatre.

119

Other Harding Grills in the Loop district are at 68
West Madison Street and at 4 North Clark Street.

THE GREEK CAFE 216 North Dearborn Street

Where Greeks meet Greeks. Although this place, situ-
ated for over thirty years on North Dearborn Street in
the immediate vicinity of the night life district, is the
dining place of wealthy and prominent Greeks of Chicago
who have offices in the Loop — importers, business men,
editors, fraternal lodge officials, commission merchants
and ice cream manufacturers — yet it has always been
popular among diners-out of other races. They come
here for the exotic appeal of certain of the items on the
Greek Cafe menu, such as the distinctive broiled lamb
chops, baklawa, and Turkish coffee.

And what lamb chops! If you really want lamb chops
in their most delicious form, prepared by chefs from the
Balkans where lamb, by force of necessity, is the prevail-
ing gustatory weakness, go to the Greek Cafe. But it
might be well to prepare the way by sipping of that other
specialty here — Greek chicken soup with vermicelli.
And for dessert order baklawa, a most toothsome Balkan
sweetmeat, made of pastry bound together with crushed
nuts and honey and palatable spices. And then there is
Turkish coffee — black, thick, and tasting truly coffeeish.
Also, if you want to be an Athenian all the way, taste
some of the genuine white Greek cheese served here. A
landmark of Chicago, retaining the same interior as when
it first opened at the turn of the century, the Greek Cafe
has a leisurely and friendly atmosphere. There is a
$1.00 table d'hote dinner.
Mattre d'hotel: Peter Anagnost

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OLD TOWN COFFEE ROOM

Basement, Hotel Sherman
Here is one of the novelty restaurants of Chicago. But
the food has in no way been sacrificed to decoration or
lay-out and you may enjoy the same highly edible dishes
here as you do in the other restaurants of the Hotel
Sherman.

Of main interest in this place, however, is the pano-
ramic map, occupying the entire ceiling, of Chicago as
it was in 18 52. It is the work of Tony Sarg, the noted
artist and puppet-master. Done in the manner of the
old cartographers, this map shows each house that stood
in Chicago in that year, as well as boats, railroad trains,
and wagons. The whole is highly colorful and entertain-
ing. If you're seated at the counter, you won't have to
strain your neck looking upward, since you may see the
whole thing by looking downward into the mirror which
covers the top of the counter.

As for other effects, the Old Town Coffee Room is
decorated in the manner of Colonial America, with old
maps and sporting prints hung about the walls, which
are panelled in unfinished American pine. This is a
delightful place to dine in on a hot summer's evening,
the room being artificially cooled. Prices are very rea-
sonable and there is both counter and table service.

THE GARRICK 68 West Randolph Street

Ask your father, or even your grandfather, about the
Garrick, formerly the Union. They'll have many a story
to tell of this once popular barroom of the old Union
Hotel, famed no less for its luxurious appointments than
for its wet goods, and, particularly, for its beer. The

121

ornate mahogany "arch" of the barroom, located in a
corner of the present restaurant, is not the only part of
it to survive, for the original ceiling also remains — highly
decorative, criss-crossed with intricately-carved oak
beams, and painted in between with gay and colorful
pictures of horns of plenty, cherubs holding bunches of
grapes, and all the other motifs that decorators used in
the Mauve Decade. The Garrick now is a restaurant,
maintaining an open-all-night policy, and having its own
share of the Randolph Street crowds before and after the
theatre.

The Garrick recently took on more grandeur, opening
up an elaborate French Room on the second floor. This
room not so many years ago was the Deauville Cafe,
operated by the late Ike Bloom, once a power in the old
22nd Street night life district. Recently, Mr. Roeder,
proprietor of the Garrick, took it over and redecorated it
in the French style. It is now a pleasant, intimate room,
done in soft rose colors, where you may dance to the
music of a small orchestra. The Garrick provides good
table d'hote dinners for $1.25 and $1.50. Live baby
lobsters are a specialty here.
Mattre d'hotel: Mr. Roeder

NELLO'S 2423 South Oakley Avenm

Like the Maulella Restaurant, Nello's is another Italian
eating parlor, far from the downtown Rialto, but patron-
ized by not a few of those whose names are printed large
before theatre doors.

It was Grover ('*Red") Gallagher, that jovial Irish
stage manager of the Harris Theatre, who first brought
the green room folks to Nello Giovannini's board. Nello's

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hearty Neapolitan personality and his musical renditions
on the mandolin, together with Mama Giovannini's skill
in the cooking of Italian fried chicken, made an instant
hit with the f ootlight people and they have been patroniz-
ing the place ever since. Lately, the newspaper boys have
followed suit, led by Maurice Roddy, the police reporter
and cartoonist.

Nello's is open as long as there are guests at the tables,
the food is of the finest quality, the telephone number is
Roosevelt 4587, and you reach the place best by taxicab.
Maitre d^ hotel: Nello Giovannini

COFFEE DAN'S 114 North Dearborn Street

Here is your opportunity of finding out, however vi-
cariously, all about this Coflfee Dan business. That name
is perhaps as familiar to you as Heinz's Fifty-seven Vari-
eties; from time to time you may have seen some reference
in the newspapers to the famed Coffee Dan's of San Fran-
cisco; or perhaps some friend has dined in the original
and told you all about it. In any case, you know that
Coffee Dan's originated in San Francisco's theatrical dis-
trict, that they served such ham and eggs and coflFee there
as was never found anywhere else in the country, that
they gave you little wooden hammers to pound on the
table in time to the music, and that it was popular with
those who gained their livelihood behind the footlights.

Well, Chicago's replica of this unique establishment
may not have the same atmosphere of spontaneity and
gay companionship, nor the clientele of the theatrical
people who made its fame known abroad in the land, but
it does provide you with something of the original place —
namely, the ham and eggs and the wooden hammers.

123

Order the Coffee Dan's special ham and eggs and they
will bring it to your table in the same pan in which it
was cooked — sizzling in a most appetizing and tempting
manner. Such was the procedure followed in the original
establishment. French fried potatoes and a toasted roll
accompany it, and the whole costs 75 cents. Another
specialty of the house, as with the original, is Hamburger
steak a la Coffee Dan. This lightens your purse a little
more than the "ham and," costing $1.00.

In all other respects, this basement restaurant is just
another dine-and-dance place in the theatre district. It
does not open until 5 P.M.
Maitre d'hotel: Bob Sorenson

HUTCHESON'S CHILI PARLOR

83 West Lake Street
Although a plain ordinary American lunch room —
white-tiled, sanitary, with a counter and marble-topped
tables, and loud with the clatter of dishes and the con-
versation of taxi drivers and such — Hutcheson's Chili
Parlor is convenient to the theatre sector, the Mexican
dishes are appetizing, and in recent months it has been
receiving a '*play" from the boys and girls of the theatre.
Almost any time after midnight you will find a gay group
of chorines and their boy friends at one of the tables, par-
taking of that popular Hutcheson specialty, Chili Mac,
which is chili and spaghetti, covered with powdered
cheese. Or you might find some of them deep in bowls
of fiery chili con carne, and others indulging in hot ta-
males with chili sauce. Of course, these dishes are not
gotten up with the perfection and skill of those prepared

124

in the cafes of the Mexican quarter, but they are first-rate
substitutes.

CELTIC GRILL Lobby Floor, Hotel Sherman

As well known and historic as the Hotel Sherman's
College Inn, the Celtic Grill today is the noontime lounge
of His Honor, Mayor Anton Cermak. Almost every day
he comes to his favorite table in the southeast corner of
the room and there lunches with many of his cabinet offi-
cials and others. Its easy accessibility (it is located directly
across the street from the City Hall), and the excellence
of its cuisine, have been the factors responsible for bring-
ing the city's chief executive and his aids here.

Celebrities from other fields come here too. Thornton
Wilder, the novelist and now a member of the faculty of
the University of Chicago, is seen here often; it is a fa-
vorite dining place for Will Rogers when he is in town;
and Rod La Rocque and his wife, Vilma Banky, the popu-
lar stage team, ate here almost every day when they were
playing in Chicago.

Large, elegant, quiet, with walls of unfinished oak
panelling, quaint and comfortable chairs, leather-covered
wall-seats, convenient electric lamps for newspaper read-
ing, and no music, the Celtic Grill is an ideal place in
which to lunch or dine and talk over a business deal or the
day's events.

The Celtic Grill contains that famous Maxfield Parrish
mural, **Sing a Song of Sixpence," painted on the west
wall. As for the food served in the Celtic Grill, it is of
the first order and a la carte only. In season, there are
many game dishes to tempt your palate. The room is

125

open for breakfast, luncheon and dinner. Prices are not
exorbitant.

BRENNAN'S 128 North Wells Street

Home-made apple pies that give the ones mother used
to make a close run, and Southern fried chicken as good
as any served below the Mason-Dixon line, are the out-
standing specialties of Brennan's located in a Wells Street
basement at the west end of the theatre district. Mrs.
Ursula Brennan, who has been conducting this restaurant
here for a number of years, is rapidly becoming known all
over town for these specialties, as well as for her luscious
strawberry shortcake and savory corned beef and cab-
bage. Lawyers, executives of the Chicago Telephone
Company nearby, and those fortunate ones among the
Randolph Streeters who have discovered the place, make
up the principal part of Mrs. Brennan's clientele. Prices
reasonable.
Maitresse d'hotel: Mrs. Ursula Brennan

BLACKHAWK RESTAURANT

139 North Wabash Avenue
If you like to dance between the soup and the entree
(which epicures claim is bad practice), we recommend
the Blackhawk, at the east end of the bright light area,
across the street from Marshall Field's department store.
Here is a luxurious dining room where the food and the
music are both of high order, and where you may see
gay couples and couples not so gay, and have an all-
around good time. Coon-Sanders orchestra will tickle
your toes if nothing else will. Dancing is from 6; 30
P. M. to 1:30 A. M. and there is no cover charge at any

126

time. They serve a $1.50 table d'hote dinner that meets
with the approval of most Blackhawk patrons.

THE TRIANGLE •)! West Randolph Street

**Yesterday," reads the Triangle menu, describing its
oysters, *'as the sun was sinking in the west, these beauti-
ful creatures were frolicking on the sandy bottom of
Delaware Bay, unmindful of the danger that lurked
overhead. Gaiety filled their Httle hearts. But suddenly
this scene of joy was transformed into one of desolation,
for astute Man hurriedly plucked them and sent them
on to us, so that today you may revel in their glorious
freshness and 'tang' of the sea . . . still scenting of the
azure blue waters."

The baked potato is lauded thus: "From Idaho, a Land
of Treasure. Ages ago great Volcanoes roared and to-day
among their old lava beds in Idaho they grow these
Magnificent Gorgeous Beauties. Hot, genuine, mealy,
Idaho baked potato, with plenty of butter, for only 20
cents. Here's Health for You."

You are reading excerpts from a menu of one of the
most original and typically American restaurants in the
country. You are in the House that Ham built. You
are about to taste the most succulent hot roast sugar-
cured ham you've ever eaten, or the biggest and most
savory of baked Idaho potatoes, or the finest and largest
order of good old-fashioned American strawberry short-
cake in all the length and breadth of the land. In other
words, you are in the midst of one of the most novel and
unique epicurean adventures that has ever befallen you.

If you think we have been carried off our feet by the
appetite-provoking advertising of this house, and are in-

127

dulging in redundant and idle boasts, you are mistaken.
The Triangle has practically revolutionized restaurant
management in Chicago by the unique advertising
methods it employs to attract patrons to its counters
and tables. Other popular-priced lunch rooms have be-
gun to copy the Triangle style. The walls of this Ran-
dolph Street Triangle look like nothing so much as the
sideshow of a circus — loud with gay and colorful plac-
ards heralding in the most flowery and poetic of phrases
the merits of its foods. And the interesting part about
it all is that these signs tell the truth. Else how could
D. L. Toflfenetti build a chain of six Triangle restaurants
in the Loop within the last ten years, with the present
Randolph Street house as the latest and most-up-to-date
of the six?

Standing on the site of the former King Joy Lo chop
suey restaurant, an old landmark of the Rialto, the
Triangle is as much a showplace as any of the theatres
that surround it — and as entertaining and diverting.
Observe the striking black marble facade, done in mod-
ernistic style and rising two stories high like an inverted
U, and the ever-changing play of colored lights across
its sweep. It is one of the most outstanding buildings
on Randolph Street.

But go inside. See the crowded counters and tables;
observe dignified judges, city officials, and theatrical
people mingling with stenographers and office boys and
family groups; see the dashing white-capped carver slic-
ing a huge appetizing-looking roast beef high up on a
dais at the front of the restaurant; the big colorful signs,
dictated by Mr. Toffenetti himself, that make your
mouth water; the girls making strawberry shortcake

128

right before you in the window; the snappy and intel-
ligent waitresses in their smart white frocks; the cooks
making salads and dressings before the gaze of all; and
Mr. Toffenetti himself moving about, picking up a plate
here, helping a waitress there, and welcoming his many
friends. All is lively, clean, wholesome, colorful, in-the-
open, and American — yes, clatter of dishes and all
— about the Triangle.

The big day during the Triangle year is the annual
opening in the spring of the Old-Fashioned Strawberry
Shortcake Jubilee — an event that has become as im-
portant in the life of the Loop as the annual Autumn
Exhibition of Fashion in Marshall Field's windows.

Indeed, the Triangle, which started as a little restau-
rant at the triangular corner (this is the origin of its
name) of Broadway, Sheridan Road, and Montrose
Avenue, in the uptown district, over fifteen years ago,
has become as much an institution in Chicago as is
Marshall Field & Company. Therefore, you should not
miss it. It is especially interesting to visitors from
foreign countries. It is open all night and the prices
are scandalously reasonable.

Another of the chain of Triangle restaurants is located
at 6 South Clark Street.
Maitre d' hotel: Dario L. Toffenetti

RANDOLPH GERMAN RESTAURANT

234 West Randolph Street
Max Koppel, proprietor of this quiet, unobtrusive old
establishment at the west end of the bright light sector,
is a restaurateur with an impressive background. His
first employment in this country was in Delmonico's in

129

New York City, one of the greatest restaurants in Amer-
ica. Then, when Henry M. Kinsley, a noted Chicago
caterer, and his son-in-law, Gustav Baumann, opened
the Holland House in Manhattan in 1891, Max Koppel
went over to that establishment. It was in the Holland
House, which became almost as famous as Delmonico's,
that Max learned the art of catering. A few years later,
Max came to Chicago and joined the Kinsley restaurant
here. Its five stories all devoted to catering purposes,
Kinsley's was the greatest of all Chicago restaurants.
At the time it closed. Max Koppel was manager of its
dining rooms.

With a background like this. Max ought to be ex-
pected to serve good food. He does. His German dishes
are comparable to those served in any of the other worth-
while Teutonic eating houses of the town. Especially
notable, however, is Max's hasenpfeflfer, which, of course,
can only be served between Thanksgiving and January
31. His beef a la mode, his smoked ribs of pork, and
his potato pancakes are also worthy of mention. The
Randolph is a clean, quiet place and has an atmosphere
of the old days about it. It is open only for luncheon
and dinner.
Maitre d^ hotel: Max Koppel

BAMBOO INN 78 West Randolph Street

Chop suey and chicken chow mein have replaced the
Martini cocktails and champagne that graced the tables
of this basement dining room when William (*'Smiley")
Corbett conducted his famous Cabaret here many years
ago. Today, the Bamboo Inn, located in the hectic
center of showland, is popular with young girls and

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i

their boy friends, as well as visiting farmers and others
from the tank towns of the midland. It is a quiet, in-
nocent Chinese restaurant where the chop suey is good
and where you may dance to the strains of Steve Leon-
ardo's orchestra. No cover charge and open until late.

CHILDS 55 West Washington Street

In recent months, this representative of the great chain
of restaurants has been getting considerable of a *'play"
from the show people, nighthawks, and bons vivants
of the downtown district. Tired of the poor quality of
foods served in the gaudier night clubs, these gay persons
have been dropping into this open-all-night place to eat
food that is food before going home. Often you will see
silk top hats and ermine wraps, or a theatrical star or
two, among the diners. The food served here, of course,
is wholesome and skillfully prepared.

ANNES' RESTAURANT 620 Rush Street

Another eating parlor distantly removed from Ran-
dolph Street, but part and parcel of the town's theatrical
life. Many stage stars who live in the Hotel McCormick
just over the river, in which this restaurant is located,
dine here in the wee small hours. During the day and
early evening, this unit in George J. Annes' Chicago
chain of lunch rooms is quiet and of no particular im-
portance. But after two in the morning it takes on life.
Actors, chorines, vaudevillians, race track men, fisticuff
artists, and an occasional newspaperman or two, are
usually present. At one table you might see Tony Can-
zoneri, the fighter, entertaining a couple of friends;
eight chorus girls from Earl Carroll's show might be at

131

another; Bernardine Hayes, voted **the greatest girl
radio star," comes in often; Jock Malone, once one of
the country's foremost fighters, sits in a corner working
on cross-word puzzles. And they are all served by
Angelo, probably the most travelled waiter in town,
who speaks five languages.

DE LAZON'S 127 North Dearborn Street

Few of the many Rialtoites who dine in this interesting
restaurant across the street from the Cort Theatre know
that it is on the first floor of the only leaning skyscraper
in the world. Observing it from across the street, the
American Bond & Mortgage Company building (built
by the late Governor John P. Altgeld, easily reveals the
incline in its upward thrust. But don't be alarmed. It
has been standing this way for over a generation. De
Lazon's serves good food, the waitresses are bright and
cheerful, and the cakes, pies, and pastries made in its
own ovens are highly satisfying. It is open from 7 A. M.
to 10 P. M. And don't forget to look over the unique
and clever carvings in wood, the work of Tud Kempf,
which adorn the walls. Kempf, although known popu-
larly as "The King of the Whittlers," is a serious artist
and his creations in wood are highly regarded by the
local art critics. These samples may help you to digest
your food. There are also many autographed photo-
graphs of theatrical stars on the walls.
Mattre d' hotel: Nick Luzon

GIMBEL'S 30 West Randolph Street

This large and popular basement dining room occupies
an interesting location. Above it rises the Masonic

132

Temple building, headquarters of Masonry in Chicago;
next door is the Oriental Theatre, largest of Chicago's
cinema palaces; and, lastly, here was the site of the
Iroquois Theatre fire in 1903. As for the restaurant
itself, it is new and luxurious, the menu is large and in-
clines toward German and Jewish cooking, the waitresses
are lively, the sticks of bread are good, and there are
four special Gimbel salads that would brighten the eye
of any epicure. Patrons are invited to observe the
kitchen, made of Monel metal. The walls of Gimbel's
are wainscoted with American walnut, ornamental plas-
ter, and intricately designed gold work. Open from
7 A. M. to midnight.
Maitre d'botel: Fred Gimbel i

THOMPSON'S 27 West Randolph Street

Here is the surprise of your life. Used to eating your
ham and eggs (country style) on one-arm chairs and
amid the clatter of much crockery in any Thompson
lunch room, you are totally unprepared for the scene of
splendor and spaciousness and up-to-dateness that con-
fronts you as you enter, for the first time, this newest
of the Thompson restaurants. The **one-arm" chairs
are gone. Considerably lessened, too, is the crazy sym-
phony of dishes. All is changed. Nothing of the old-
time Thompson atmosphere is here, with the exception
of the service counter and the help-yourself system.

Instead, a unique and artisticaSy designed eating place
rises before you. The one-arm chairs are replaced by
highly-carved and polished oak tables and chairs; the
walls are of panelled oak; large colorful murals, rising
from floor to ceiling and lit by hidden lights in pros-

133

ceniums, depicting scenes in early American history,
dominate the east wall; snappy girls in white frocks
have replaced the men at the service counter; and a long
soda fountain stands at the front.

The interesting part about it all, however, is that the
Thompson prices have not changed in order to pay for
this new elegance. Neither has the fopd deteriorated in
quality. We know of no better place to eat during
**lean days'* than this Rialto establishment — and its
sumptuousness is soothing to your pride.

TERRACE GARDEN Madison at Clark Street

Here is one of the best known dine-and-dance restau-
rants in Chicago. Popular both before and after the
theatre. Although not on Randolph Street, the Terrace
Garden is but two blocks southward. It is located in the
basement of the Morrison Hotel, where the famed old
Boston Oyster House once had quarters. You eat at
tables placed on circular terraces and the dance floor,
orchestra, and floor show are below you. Luncheon,
dinner, and after-theatre supper are served here and the
menu is both table d'hote and a la carte. They feature
daily specials, which are appetizing, such as beef a la
mode with potato pancackes. New England boiled din-
ner, fried spring chicken roadhouse style, boiled brisket
of beef with horse radish sauce, baked finnan haddie a
la Moir, and individual chicken pot pie. If you like to
dance between courses, or if you like to be in a gay
convivial atmosphere, with music, young people, and
colorful surroundings, the Terrace Garden is the place
to go.

134

i

ORIENTAL GARDENS 23 West Randolph Street
Newest of the Loop's chow meineries is the Oriental
Gardens, located on the second floor over Thompson's
latest restaurant and across the street from the Oriental
Theatre. Here, all is Chinese and sufficiently exotic for
the kind of people who go to the Randolph Street movie
palaces — and there are plenty in Chicago. Henri Gend-
ron and his orchestra provide music for dancing and the
establishment is open until 1 A. M. A few American
dishes are served here and such popular Chinese dishes
as chop suey and chow mein.
Maitre d'botel: Chin Wai ^

GARDEN OF ZANZIBAR TEA ROOM

54 West Randolph Street
An upstairs tea room where they tell your fortune in
the tea leaves — typical of the fortune telling tea rooms
which have sprung up all over the Loop in recent years.
Lots of fun for stenographers and their boy friends.

THE GYPSY TEA SHOP

22 West Monroe Street
Where real gypsies read your palm or tea leaves. The
original of these establishments in Chicago.

135

ALONG THE AVENUE

Like proud and gaily-decorated soldiers standing at
attention, the big skyscraper hotels of Michigan Avenue
rear their million-windowed facades over Chicago's Lake
Front. Serving a wealthy and exclusive clientele, these
hotels, in their dining rooms, oflFer the very best in food-
stuffs. They obtain the choicest cuts of meats from the
stockyards; the vegetables served on their tables are fresh
from the country; and the chefs and pastry cooks work-
ing in their kitchens are trained in the best traditions
of Continental cookery.

Our survey of the Avenue eating halls and parlors
begins at Michigan Avenue and Lake Shore Drive, the
near north side crossroads of the Gold Coast. Here, the
Drake Hotel stands as a citadel of wealth and fashion; a
few doors east of it rises the exclusive Lake Shore Drive
Hotel; several blocks northward we find the swanky
Ambassador East Hotel; just south of it stands the
Knickerbocker Hotel. In all of these high-toned hostel-
ries are dining rooms that serve the choicest of dishes
for a discriminating clientele.

Among these hotels are the Avenue restaurants and
tea rooms — the majority of them decorated in the

137

modern style. Down the Avenue we follow them, cross-
ing the Chicago river into the downtown district, until
we come to the Palmer House, which is just one block
west of the Avenue but always identified with it. From
then on, we visit the dining rooms of the ritzy Avenue
hotels in the downtown district — the Auditorium, the
Congress, the Blackstone, and the Stevens. Here, also,
we make note of the more important restaurants and
tea rooms. In the following pages, then, you will find
the results of our survey.

THE DRAKE

Lake Shore Drive and Michigan Avenue
First and foremost of the Avenue eating establish-
ments catering to Chicago's social world is the main
dining room of the Drake Hotel. The location of the
hotel, of course, has much to do with the high prestige
of the dining room, being at the head of Michigan Ave-
nue and dominating the Lake Shore Drive Gold Coast,
which sweeps northward in an imposing curve of trees
and tall apartment hotels along the shore of Lake Michi-
gan. Incidentally, no other dining room in town offers
a more beautiful metropolitan view than the one to be
seen through the spacious windows along the north wall
of the Drake dining room.

Huge, impressive, decorated in the Italian Renaissance
style, with plenty of veined marble columns and gor-
geous glass chandeliers, and soothed by the dulcet strains
of the Drake Concert Ensemble, this rendezvous of the
Four Hundred and such visiting celebrities as happen
to be stopping at the Drake (and most of them stop
there) , comes to its most active life at dinner time — and

138

mainly during **the season." Then, tuxedos and low-
necked gowns are in abundance; the atmosphere is gay
and swanky and cosmopolitan; and the debutantes and
dandies are having the time of their lives. The cuisine,
of course, is of the highest quality and the a la carte
menu is more like a catalogue than a folder.

Historic banquets have been held in this dining room
in honor of world-renowned celebrities. Gazing upon
such a magnificent dining hall, you regret that old John
B. Drake, founder of the Drake dynasty in Chicago, is
not alive to stage in this place one of his far-famed an-
nual game dinners that made his Grand Pacific Hotel
(now gone) the talk of the country back in the seven-
ties.

For luncheon, however, many of the millionaires and
dowagers and others prefer the smaller Lantern Room,
which overlooks Michigan Avenue. Here, you may see
the interesting French wall lanterns which Mrs. John B.
Drake II installed and which are replicas of ones she had
seen in an old chateau in France. A striking silvered
frieze, depicting various medieval sports and games, is
also of interest, and so are the figurines of gay-colored
candy which decorate each table and which are the work
of Jacques Czerwinski, product of Parisian art schools
and kitchens.

While an orchestra plays, you may enjoy that delicious
Drake luncheon specialty, eggs Becker, created by the
late Chef Becker of the Blackstone Hotel (owned by the
Drake interests) and consisting of eggs and diced lob-
ster in Newburg sauce, served on toast. But there is a
varied selection of other ready dishes and all of them,
prepared under the skillful eye of Chef Theo Rooms,

139

would meet the hearty approval of the most fastidious
of epicures. The Lantern Room is open for breakfast,
luncheon, dinner, and supper dances, and the prices are
not extraordinarily high. And the service is truly a
tribute to the genius of Chicago's most noted maitre
d'hotel Eric Dahlberg.

The Drake Italian restaurant, on the ground floor,
reminiscent of a low crypt in some old Tuscan villa,
is the popular-priced eating room of the hotel, table
d'hote luncheons being served here for 8 5 cents and
table d'hote dinners for $1.50. The sea food Louisiane
and lamb rack Parmesan are notable specialties of the
Italian restaurant.
Eric Dahlberg

BRADSHAWS 127 East Oak Street

Although a small, unassuming place, around the cor-
ner from Michigan Avenue and having all the appear-
ance of being just another Gold Coast tea room, Brad-
shaw's serves some of the best food in the North Central
district. The establishment is conducted by Mrs. Jene
Fageros, a capable and conscientious Norwegian cook
from Minneapolis, and her daughter, Bernyce, who is
an artist and a graduate of Columbia. Nowhere can
you find better apple pie — the delicious fresh apple
slices are exposed and instead of the usual covering of
crust Mrs. Fageros uses a layer of chopped walnuts.
Her bran muffins also are incomparable, being made of
figs, bran, milk, and eggs. Luncheons are 65 and 8 5
cents and dinners $L00 and $1.50. Mrs. Bernice Chal-
lenger Bost, editor of Tower Town Topics magazine,
and many well-known men and women from nearby

140

advertising offices come here daily for luncheon, and
it is one of the favored spots of Lake Shore Drive so-
ciety. Through the windows you may observe, on the
other side of the street, the lawns at the rear of Mrs.
Edith Rockefeller McCormick's palatial residence — if
that is of any interest to you.
Maitresse d^hotel: Miss Bernyce Fageros

KNICKERBOCKER COFFEE SHOP

1 63 East Walton Place
Excellent substantial dishes, the kind that business
men enjoy, are offered in this small eating room just
off the lobby of the Hotel Knickerbocker. There is
German apple pancakes with head lettuce, broiled Span-
ish mackerel and boiled potato, Szedigner beef goulash,
and any number of other items. This coffee shop,
decorated with unique pinkish wallpaper, is popular
among advertising men and executives from the tower-
ing Palmolive Building next door, as well as among
society people. Luncheons are 65 cents — and worth it.

NINE HUNDRED NORTH

900 North Michigan Avenue
This place was aptly described recently as "Modern
— but beautiful!" And so it is. If you are a lover of
modern art, here is a thrill for you. It was designed by
Mrs. Howard Linn, the talented Chicago society woman,
and its first manager was Mrs. William Vaughn Moody,
widow of the noted poet and foremost of the town's
hostesses.

The Crystal Room is where the main thrill lies. Small,
oval in shape, exquisitely done in black and white and

141

with many hexagonal columns of black glass and hidden
colored lights, the room looks large and intricate by-
virtue of the clever arrangement of French mirrors.
Several novel private dining rooms, notably the Straw-
Room, made of hand-painted straw squares, are also
features of the place.

During the sultry evenings of summer, however, most
patrons dine in the Patio — a large open-air court with
a fountain in its center. Here, under the July stars and
to the strains of an orchestra, you may enjoy Chef
Charles Font's delightful Stuffed Lobster Thermidor, or
any of his other dishes, in a most gay Monte Carlo-like
atmosphere. This courtyard, by the way, is part of the
Nine Hundred North Michigan Avenue Building, de-
signed by the Jarvis Hunts, Senior and Junior, noted
architects, and occupied by numerous Chicago million-
aires and their families on the cooperative plan.

Here, then, you are likely to see many of these resi-
dents at dinner — Fames MacVeigh, Edward Swift, Jr.,
W. C. Boyden, Joseph M. Cudahy, Hopwell L. Rogers,
Thorne Donnelley, Ira Nelson Morris, Cyrus Hall Mc-
Cormick, D. F. Kelly, and George E. Porter.

Rudolph, in his polite Continental way, is there to
welcome you; the cuisine is perfection; you will not feel
out of place in formal dress; and the prices are within
reason.
Maitre d'hotel: Rudolph

WOMAN'S EXCHANGE

942 North Michigan Avenue
For women only — and the only one of its kind in
Chicago. Very exclusive. About fifteen tables at the

142

rear of the Woman's Exchange of Chicago, which is a
charity shop estabHshed by Mrs. Kellogg Fairbank, Mrs.
Louis F. Swift, and other wealthy society women. You
help yourself at the serving counter. Excellent home
cooking. Salads and pastries best in the city, and ex-
cellent are the creamed cheese and anchovies served on
rye bread. Heavily patronized by socially prominent
women at tea time. When you are through lunching,
you tell the cashier what you ate and she makes out the
bill. No so bad!

180 EAST DELAWARE RESTAURANT

180 East Delaware Place
Most charming and interesting of French restaurants
in Chicago, just off the Avenue. The ceiling is beamed,
the floor is made of tile, dark brocaded draperies hang
over doorways and windows, real candles are on the
tables, a fireplace is at one end and a big table of most
tempting hors d*oeuvres is at the other, and all is de-
lightfully atmospheric and redolent of the Old World.
But most interesting of all is Jacques Fumagally, the
ma It re d 'hotel, who goes about welcoming guests in true
Parisian style. Born in Monte Carlo, Jacques was for-
merly with the Ritz in Paris and the Sevilla Biltmore in
Havana. With the able assistance of Chef Julliard Me-
dou, Jacques offers you a few specialties, such as cottage
cheese a la Jacques and 180 Delaware special salad. The
menu is large and contains all the popular French dishes.
Table d'hote luncheon, 75 cents, and table d'hote din-
ners at $1.00 and $1.50. This French restaurant is
located in swanky and exclusive Streeterville, once the

143

bailiwick of old Cap'n George Wellington Streeter, the

militant squatter.

Maitre d^ hotel: Jacques Fumagally

HUYLER'S 917 North Michigan Avenue

The modern atmosphere of this important Avenue
restaurant, with its four dining rooms, is in keeping
with the building in which it is located — the cloud-
piercing Palmolive Building, a modernistic skyscraper
with setbacks, which, with its powerful Lindbergh bea-
con, dominates the entire near north side both day and
night. The Pink Room, first of the rooms, is done in
rose-pink and contains a lunch counter and booths.
Then comes the Gold Room, a formal dining room
where prices are higher. The Walton Coffee Room, at
the rear, done in blue and silver, is a sort of sandwich
shop. The Fountain Room adjoining is self-explanatory.
The foods served in all these rooms are of the best quality
and not only typists but fashionable men and women
from the Gold Coast patronize the various rooms daily.

WOOD'S 930 North Michigan Avenue

Many a Chicago millionaire can remember being taken,
when a child, to Wood's on Michigan Avenue for ice
cream soda. This small but exclusive establishment, how-
ever, is an off-shoot of the parent house, located down-
town at 108 South Michigan Avenue. Mr. and Mrs.
Wood serve delicious light luncheons and confections
and they have a large following among the older first
families of the town. Their creamed shrimps and
creamed mushrooms are exquisite creations, nowhere to
be duplicated. In recent years this Upper Michigan

144

Avenue branch has become popular among debs for
afternoon tea. Not very many men are seen here — but
there's no reason why they should stay away.
Mattresse d'hotel: Mrs. Wood

LAKE SHORE DRIVE 180 Lake Shore Drive

When Queen Marie of Roumania, and her two children,
Prince Nicholas and Princess Ileana, visited Chicago
in 1926, they resided at the Lake Shore Drive Hotel and
ate in its dining room — which information might give
you some idea of the position occupied by this establish-
ment in Chicago's social life. The Lake Shore is also a
favorite stopping and dining place of many other re-
nowned bigwigs — Ira Nelson Morris, former ambassador
to Sweden; Mary Garden, the opera singer; Robert P.
Lamont, secretary of commerce; Michael Strange, the
author and ex-wife of John Barrymore; Jascha Heifetz,
the violinist; Anita Stewart, the movie star; Yehudi
Menuhin, the boy violinist; Alfred Lunt, the actor, and
such actresses as Lillian Gish, Katherine Cornell, Lynn
Fontanne, and Ethel Barrymore.

People of this sort demand the best in food — and they
get it in the dining room of the Lake Shore Drive Hotel.
Not only residents of the hotel, but matrons and mil-
lionaires from the residences nearby, come to this dining
room. During **the season," all diners are in formal
dress. It is a small room, beautifully done in the Adam
style, and the china and silver cause you to gasp. The
atmosphere is very ritzy and fashionable and the prices
are accordingly high.

The hotel occupies a commanding position, fronting
on Lake Michigan and the Lake Shore Drive Gold Coast,

145

and only a short distance east of the Avenue. The Loop
is five minutes away by auto. If you want to dine with
the beau monde of Chicago, or catch a gUmpse of some
visiting celebrity in an informal moment, then the din-
ing room of the Lake Shore Drive Hotel is the place to

go-

Mattre d'hotel: Langsdorff

HOTEL AMBASSADOR

North State Parkway and Goethe Street
In the heart of the Gold Coast and very very swanky.
Main dining room, at dinner, alive with the presence of
Chicago society folk and others well known. Here, any
evening, you are likely to see Chicago's veteran member
of the bench. Judge Thomas Taylor, Jr., and Mrs. Tay-
lor; John Borden, the explorer, and his wife, Courtney
Borden, the writer; Senator and Mrs. James Hamilton
Lewis; and James Keeley, the former Chicago Tribune
executive, and Mrs. Keeley. All is elegant, dignified, and
expensive in this dining room and the cuisine is care-
fully prepared to suit the tastes of well-travelled epi-
cures. No music. The room is not large. It is done in
the Colonial style and crystal chandeliers of striking
beauty depend from the ornate ceiling. For less formal
atmosphere, many of the society people eat in the Italian
Room of the old Ambassador Hotel, across the street
from the Ambassador East, and reached through a tun-
nel under State Street. The Italian Room is reminiscent
of some old hall in a Neapolitan villa and the cuisine here
is the same as that of the dining room in the Ambassador
East.

Mattre d'hotel: Charles Metcalf

146

MISS ELLIS TEA SHOP

717 North Michigan Avenue
Most elegant and high-toned of the EUis chain of tea
rooms in Chicago. The interior is modern and the wall-
paper is a delight to the esthetically-inclined. Patronized
by smartly-gowned women and by women who come
here to look at the gowns. The cuisine is commendable
and the numerous old family recipes used in this place
make the menu inviting. The chicken pie is something
you shouldn't miss. Luncheons are 50 and 65 cents and
dinners 75 cents and $1.00. Sunday dinners are $1.25
and $1.50. The waitresses are lively, intelligent, and
courteous.

LE PETIT GOURMET

619 North Michigan Avenue
Established by Mrs. William Vaughn Moody, Le Petit
Gourmet has played an important part in the literary
history of the city since its beginning over nine years
ago. Here it was that Harriet Monroe, editor of Poetry
magazine, conducted her popular "Poetry Readings"
— bringing before the public such well-known poets as
the late Amy Lowell, Carl Sandburg, Lew Sarett, Edgar
Lee Masters, Alfred Kreymborg, Witter Bynner, Eunice
Tietjens, Mrs. Arthur Aldis, Marion Strobel, and Max-
well Bodenheim.

Le Petit Gourmet, occupying basement quarters, has
always been popular among writers, artists, musicians,
society folk, epicures, and all others who enjoy good
foods. Many of Mrs. Moody's famed recipes (she is no
longer connected with the establishment) , contained in

147

her recently-published cook book, are still served here,
and the excellent pastries made by the Home Delicacies
Association (which Mrs. Moody also founded) are part
of the menu. People still come here for the East Indian
chicken curry, served only at the Wednesday luncheon
during cold weather and always a popular favorite of
the house.

The interior is attractive, colorful, and unique, fea-
turing real burning candles, a wood fire in the fireplace,
rare and quaint porcelains and colorful designs on the
walls. During the summer months you may dine in the
Continental manner at little round tables in the Italian
Court, an old-world court that has been photographed
and drawn and painted more than any other spot in
town. Italian balconies are all about and the summer
sky is above you. Men mostly frequent the Italian Room
in the rear of the basement quarters. Le Petit Gourmet
is now operated by Mrs. Florence Sturgis and Mrs. Ethel
Williams, two capable women, well known in Chicago
restaurant and catering circles.

VASSAR HOUSE 540 North Michigan Avenue

Starting five years ago as a small tea room operated by
the Vassar College alumnae of Chicago and vicinity for
the purpose of raising a scholarship fund, Vassar House
is now one of the major restaurants of the Avenue, es-
pecially since it moved into its new and larger quarters
in the Michigan Square Building. Modern and colorful
in decor, its interior is featured by Leslie Thome's black
and white murals representing the various styles of wom-
en's dresses worn by students since the founding of

148

Vassar in 1868, and the old-style cartographer's maps of
the Vassar campus painted on the table-tops. The Men's
Grill, a recent addition, serves breakfast in addition to
luncheon and dinner. Among the specialties of the
house, prepared by those two able cooks, Antonio Gillio
and Emile Burckel, is Vassar Devil, a fudge cake known
to every Vassar graduate. This place is ideal for tea and
has become popular among visitors who come to view
Carl Milles' famous statue, ''Fountain of Diana", in Diana
Court, the beautiful lobby of the Michigan Square
Building." And, if you are a Vassar graduate, you will
be interested to know that former Vassarites act as hos-
tesses, among them Mrs- Arthur D. Welton, Mrs.
Charles Faben Kelley, Mrs. Eugene S. Talbot, Jr., and
other members of the board of directors. An interesting
sidelight on the restaurant is that fully seventy-five per
cent of its clientele is made up of real honest-to-goodness
he men. The excellent and substantial foods served
here is what brings them — as well as women patrons.
Ma I tr esse d' hotel: Miss Rtitb I sa belle Smith

TOWER TEA ROOM 820 Tower Court

Located on the Pearson Street side of the Illinois Wom-
an's Athletic Club Building, a soaring skyscraper
which makes the historic old Chicago Avenue water
tower in front of it look like a midget. Good substantial
dishes are served here and there are as many men at the
tables as women. The room is decorated with striking
wall designs and all is elegant and in keeping with what
a first-class dining room, just off the Avenue, should be.

149

GRAYLING'S 410 North Michigan Avenue

This large restaurant, on the ground floor of the
Wrigley Annex Building, is largely patronized by the
advertising men and executives who have offices in the
twin Wrigley Buildings and by department heads and
others of the Chicago Tribune in Tribune Tower, across
the Avenue. Women mostly dine in the front section
of the restaurant, which is ornately decorated, while
men prefer the smaller and more intimate Grill Room at
the rear. This room is unique, being the only example
of Holland Renaissance decoration in a Chicago restau-
rant. The walls are of panelled walnut, and real tapes-
tries, wrought iron lighting fixtures, and a flagged floor
form other decorative features. It was designed by
Leonard De Wit, the noted Dutch artist and designer,
now resident in Chicago. The food served in Grayling's
is of the best quality and there is a large and varied
menu. Open for breakfast, luncheon, and dinner.
Afternoon tea also is popular here.
Maitre d'botel: Mr, Grayling

THE VESUVIO 15 East W acker Drive

Although not on the Avenue, this Italian restaurant
is in its immediate vicinity and occupies one of the most
cosmopolitan sites in town. It lies between the Michigan
Avenue bridgehead plaza and the grand sweeping plaza
at Wacker Drive and North Wabash Avenue, with the
waters and the steamers of Chicago at its feet. The
decorations by the Italian artist, Gallano, are Pompeiian,
in black, red, and gold. D. Price, a native of Torino,
one of the proprietors, numbers among his friends Galli-
Curci, Rosa Raisa, Tito Schipa, and other operatic no-

150

tables. Rossi, the other proprietor, was formerly with
the Drake and Blackstone Hotels and knows what
Italian cooking is all about. Hence the reason why-
many bigwigs dine here frequently — Jack Dempsey and
his wife, Estelle Taylor; Jackie Coogan, the kid movie
actor; Edith Rockefeller McCormick, Chicago's social
queen, and Count Charles de Fontnouvelle, the French
consul. Business men's luncheons at 65 cents and table
d'hote dinners at $1.25 and $1.50. There are a lot of
Italian specialties served here — and appetizingly, too.
Maitre d'hotel: D. Vrice -^

ST. CLAIR 162 East Ohio Street

The dining room of the St. Clair Hotel, serving food
on a par with that of many of the Avenue restaurants,
has become popular as an after-theatre rendezvous.
Waffles and late supper specials are prepared most en-
ticingly here, and there is music and a dance floor. Table
d'hote dinners are $1.00, $1.25 and $1.50. Plate lunch-
eons for 50 cents and dinners for $1.00 are served in the
St. Clair Coffee Shop. This hotel, a stone's throw from
the Avenue on the near north side, is within five minutes
walk to the Loop.

EL HAREM 165 North Michigan Avenue

An Arabian Night on Michigan Avenue. All is dark
and mysterious and sensuous and Turkish in El Harem
— including the menu. By a simple twist of the wrist
and the addition of a few "hubble-bubble" pipes and
ornate hanging Turkish lamps, Pietro Mosgofian, for-
merly impresario of the Cafe Old Stamboul in Tower
Town, was able to transform the heavily ornamented

151

Russian interior, recently occupied by the Petrushka
Club, into a place having all the exotic atmosphere of a
Sultan's harem. Turkish dishes are served here, includ-
ing baklawa and Turkish coffee, and, after the meal,
you may smoke highly-scented Turkish cigarettes or
struggle with the narghile, (or hooka, or **hubble-
bubble" pipe, or Oriental water-bottle pipe — which ever
you want to call it) . In case none of these attract you,
there is Clarence Jones and his orchestra to provide
music while you dance. El Harem is open for luncheon,
tea dance, dinner, after-the-theatre, and late supper.
The waiters are Turkish, wear fezzes, and are very meek.
This place is highly interesting if you want to spend the
evening and your money in an exotic foreign atmos-
phere. Dinner is $2.00.
Mattre d' hotel: Pietro Mosgofian

PALMER HOUSE

State, Wahash, and Monroe Streets
This famed Chicago hotel, although not on Michigan
Avenue, is included in this chapter because it is but a
block westward on Wabash Avenue and therefore easily
identified with the gay life of the city's Lake Front bou-
levard. Founded in 1871 by Potter Palmer (known to
posterity as **The Father of State Street" and the hus-
band of the undisputed social queen of Chicago during
the World's Fair of 1893 ) , the Palmer House has always
S^een noted throughout the country for its unrivaled
cuisine.

It was in the dining room of "the old Palmer House"
that the most famous banquet ever held in the United
States was staged — that accorded to General U. S. Grant

152

in 1879 and at which Mark Twain and Colonel Robert
T. Ingersoll, among dozens of other celebrities, were
speakers. Never before was there such an array of
game dishes as at this feast — saddles of venison, roast
prairie chicken, buffalo steaks, breasts of wild duck,
filets of wild turkey, and innumerable other edibles from
the woods and prairies of the Middle West.

The culinary fame of the Palmer House, now in a
magnificent new skyscraper building on the old site, con-
tinues to the present day, and has been considerably en-
hanced since the house acquired Monsieur Ernest E.
Amiet, noted Swiss cook, as executive chef. Chef Amiet,
former president of the Chefs de Cuisine Association of
America, is one of the few chefs in this country to hold
the diploma of the Societe des Cuisiners de Paris, which
is the highest honor that can come to a chef.

With Chef Amiet to supervise their preparation, then,
the Palmer House "Daily Specials" are epicurean de-
lights of the highest order. The disjointed fried squab
chicken Ol' Man River, served with corn fritter, glazed
brown sugar, pan gravy with pimiento, and crisp salt
pork, is a dish you'll never forget. Neither will your
memory of the mutton chop Smithfield, with ham and
mushrooms, grow dim. And you'll cherish your recol-
lections of the potted brisket of beef Palmer Square, and
that delicious dessert, Creole Juanita. Also, the Hun-
garian goulash with spatzles and the roast capon Dixie
are of the first order.

Since its recent opening, the Fountain Room, just off
the lobby, has become the most popular of the Palmer
House luncheon places. It is decorated in hand-painted
panels and features Chinese Chippendale furniture. The

153

8 5 cent table d'hote luncheon is unique here in that the
polite colored waiters bring a silver tray bearing the
three entrees, from which you may help yourself to your
heart's content.

Grandest of the Palmer House dining rooms is the
Empire Room, done in soft green in the style of the time
of the first Napoleon. Luncheon is a la carte, but
there is a $2.50 table d'hote dinner, and both for lunch-
eon and dinner music is supplied by the Palmer House
String Quartet. The next largest dining room is the Vic-
torian Room, decorated in white and gold with draperies
of crimson, and dominated at one end by a large oil paint-
ing of Queen Victoria. A $1.00 table d'hote luncheon
is served here, also a la carte, and the table d'hote dinner
is $2.00.

The Chicago Room, located in the basement, is one
of the novelty restaurants of the city. All four walls
are so painted that one seems to be viewing the skyline
of downtown Chicago from the roof of the Palmer
House — the steam-plumed roofs of skyscrapers are all
about, white clouds float across a summer sky, and to the
east lies the blue vastness of Lake Michigan. The Special
Casserole *Top" Dinner, at $1.50, is a feature of this
room, the dishes being served from a casserole table at
one end of the room. The table d'hote luncheon is 85
cents. The basement of the Palmer House also con-
tains a large counter lunch room, packed at noontime
with Loop workers from surrounding office buildings.

ART INSTITUTE Michigan Avemie, at Adams Street
Here you may dine with the embryonic artists, sculp-
tors, decorators, and architects of the town. It is also

154

a charming place in which to rest and have tea when
you get "museum fatigue." At noon it is crowded with
young men and women students from the various schools
of the Art Institute. Cafeteria service is in the main
lunch room. The tea room is in Mather Hall, adjoining,
the walls of which contain colorful and whimsical
murals of Art Institute life, the work of Ethel Spears
and Louise Taylor.
Maitresse d'botel: Blanch Aultman

MAILLARD'S 30^ South Michigan Avenue

Located on the ground floor of the towering Straus
Building, this well-known Avenue restaurant has a front
that is deceiving. It looks like a ritzy confectionery
shop, but go inside and into the four basement dining
rooms and you will be in one of the largest restaurants
in Chicago, with a seating capacity of 1,200 persons.
This establishment is a branch of the noted New York
restaurant of the same name, founded eighty years ago
by Henry Maillard, a French caterer, who supervised
Abraham Lincoln's inaugural banquet. All of which
means that the foods served here are of supreme quality.
One of their outstanding specialties is chicken livers
saute a la Maillard, with fried apple rings and fresh
mushrooms. Daily, Maillard's has been crowded ever
since its start here five years ago. The restaurant is
richly furnished, very elegant, and French in atmos-
phere. In the basement you will find the main dining
room, the Gold Room, the College Room, the men's Old
English Grill, and the *'Hall of Fame" in the foyer.
Many operatic, musical, theatrical, and movie celebrities,
as well as fashionable people and business executives,

155

have meals in Maillard's. Afternoon tea in Maillard's
is a Chicago institution. By the by, if you want a
thrill, have a light snack in their Tower Tea Room,
located on the top-most floor of the Straus tower, which
is only open between June first and September first. An
amazing view of Chicago awaits you here.
Maitre d'hotel: A. Richard Moulin

THE PICCADILLY 410 South Michigan Avenue

Located on the fourth floor of the Fine Arts Building
and consisting of four '^period" dining rooms, the Pic-
cadilly serves many of the town's outstanding artists,
musicians, writers, and art patrons, as well as innumer-
able illustrators, etchers, silversmiths, decorators, teach-
ers of drama and elocution, booksellers, and dealers in
antiques and curios. Most of these people occupy studios,
shops and salons in the Fine Arts Building, an historic
Chicago landmark dedicated to the arts and built by
the Studebakers of South Bend, Indiana. The dining
rooms are quietly and tastefully decorated in various
period styles. The Empire Room is done in the green
favored by Napoleon and Josephine in their home,
Malmaison; the Early American Room is notable for its
striking "Scenic America" wallpaper; the Venetian
Court, where you may lunch or dine al fresco under gay
umbrellas, is delightfully Continental; and the Men's
Grill is like the refectory of an old Spanish monastery,
with its (alleged) worm-eaten beams and dark oak
furniture. Luncheon and dinner are served in all rooms
(both table d'hote and a la carte), and tea is served be-
tween 2:30 P.M. and 5 P.M. in the Empire and Early
American Rooms, which offer splendid views of Chi-

156

cage's waterfront plaza. Prices are reasonable and the
service is perfection.
Mattre d'botel: Mr. Chapin

AUDITORIUM Michigan Avenue, at Congress Street
Most pleasurable of dining experiences along the
Avenue is that to be found at the tables on the open-
air balcony of the historic Auditorium Hotel, where
you may eat your sirloin steak a la Auditorium while
gazing down at the promenaders on the sidewalk and
across to the sweeping Lake Front plaza, with its two
Mestrovic Indian statues and the gushing Buckingham
Memorial Fountain. The balcony, of course, is only
open during the summer months. There is no additional
charge and the luncheon and dinner menus here are the
same as in the main dining room. Being on the second
floor, the balcony is sufficiently close to the sidewalk
below to be interesting. There is an 85 cent table
d'hote luncheon and a $1.25 table d'hote dinner.

The atmosphere of the Nineties is found in the main
dining room, the Oak Room, and the Coffee Shop. Here
are the same oak panelled rooms and ornate leaded glass
windows that were so admired by our fathers and
mothers when the Auditorium Hotel and Theatre, de-
signed by the great architect, Louis H. Sullivan, were
dedicated by President Harrison in 1888. Here, also,
are the same tables where over two generations of opera-
goers sat in their formal dress, until a few years ago
when the Chicago Civic Opera Company deserted the
incomparable old Auditorium Theatre for newer quar-
ters. What is called the Oak Room now used to be the

157

Auditorium Bar, where conviviality was notable during
pre-World War days.

Today, the foods are o£ the same high quality as
formerly and you will see many pioneer Chicago no-
tables in the dining room. Chef Joseph Bencivenga has
introduced a few highly edible specialties worth any
epicure's attention.
Mattre d'hotel: Peter Pampei

THE CONGRESS

Michigan Avenue, at Congress Street
First of the four dining rooms that branch oflf at in-
tervals from Peacock Alley, the Congress Hotel's famed
avenue of fashion and sophistication, is the Louis XVI
Room, where dinner is served and where, during the
social season, you will see plenty of opera wraps and silk
top hats. The room is large and lavishly decorated in
the French style and the foods are of the best quality —
that noted French chef, Lucien Raymond, presiding over
the Congress Hotel kitchens.

For luncheon, however, there are many guests of the
hotel, as well as Michigan Avenue strollers, who prefer
the smaller Pine Room, which occupies quarters between
Peacock Alley and the Avenue. The walls are panelled
in unfinished pine, and at the north wall there is a log
cabin where a colored Mammy turns out those great
American dishes. Aunt Jemima waffles with maple
syrup and Aunt Jemima pancakes. The table d'hote
luncheon is $1.00 and the table d'hote dinner is $1.50.
The small dining room on the floor above the Pine Room
is a popular afternoon tea rendezvous. Sandwiches,

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salads, pastries, ice cream, and fruits and preserves, are
featured here.

Further down Peacock Alley, on the opposite side, is
the PompeLian Grill Room, most famous of Congress
Hotel dining rooms, and its equally famous chef, Alfred
Fries. Chef Fries has presided over this room for twenty
years, and his typical American dishes have been the
delight of hundreds of celebrities from all over the
world who have eaten here. He is now an authority on
our native edibles, his "The Blue Book of American
Dishes" being the most comprehensive cook book on the
subject so far written.

The Pompeiian Room, as its name might imply, is
very luxurious and elegant and Roman. It is said
that Burne -Jones declared it to be the most beautiful
room in America. The squat green fountain in the center
of the room, made of fevrile glass and tinkling with
the sound of water, was exhibited in the World's
Columbian Exhibition in 1893. Roosevelt, Taft, Hard-
ing, Caruso, and Al Smith have dined here in the past —
to name only a few of an endless number of renowned
people who have patronized the Pompeiian Grill. And
celebrities of this sort still come here.

The menu of the Pompeiian Room is a la carte and
there is a dance orchestra, but for night club atmos-
phere, you must seek the Balloon Room, at the end of
Peacock Alley. This unique after-theatre dine-and-
dance place was designed by H. L. Kaufman, for twenty
years president of the hotel and an artist. It is done
in orange and black; lights from a slowly revolving
chandelier of mirrors continually circle about the room
like a swirling snowstorm; and the dance floor is fringed

159

with colored glass under which electric lights shine.
D. W. Griffith is reported to have used the design of the
Balloon Room, with its novel lighting effects, in one of
his pictures. You may dance here from 10 P.M. to
2 A.M. The service is a la carte and no cover charge.
Art Kahn and his orchestra provide the music.

What used to be the Congress Bar, on the Congress
Street side of the hotel, is now a coffee shop. The foods
served here are of the same high quality as those served
in the other eating parlors of the Congress. The coffee
shop is mostly patronized by men.
Maitre d'hotel: Ray R. Barrete

THE BLACKSTONE

Michigait Avenue, at jth Street
For over two decades the most exclusive and renowned
hotel in downtown Chicago, the Blackstone, in its vari-
ous dining rooms, offers a cuisine equal to that of the
Savoy in London, the Ritz in Paris, or the Ritz in New
York, both in excellence of preparation and variety.
Here are all the principal dishes of Continental cookery,
as well as those of domestic brand, prepared by a large
staff of expert cooks and confectioners according to the
recipes of some of the world's foremost chefs. If you
are an epicure — and more so if you are not — you will
receive the culinary thrill of your life in gazing over the
Blackstone's catalogued a la cart menu, an impressive
folio containing almost every dish eaten by civilized
man. That great epicure, Lucullus, would turn in his
catacomb were he to see this menu and the prices are
higher than a cat's back.

Such gastronomical lavishness is in keeping with the

160

traditions started by John B. Drake, first of the Drake
family in Chicago, whose sons, Tracy Drake and John
B. Drake II, built the Blackstone in 1910.

Not a little of the culinary fame of the Blackstone,
however, is due to the specialites de la maison created
by the late August Becker, chef here for over nine years.
Nowhere, not even in Europe, can you get such delicious
creations in foods — eggs Becker, omelette Becker, breast
of chicken Becker, sweetbreads Becker, Virginia ham
Becker, steak a la Blackstone, Blackstone mixed grill,
Blackstone salad, the Blackstone sandwich, and the
coupe Becker. These specialties may also be obtained
at the Drake Hotel, operated by John B. Drake II and
III and William Drake. And, since we are mentioning
names in this paragraph, those of Frederick H. Muller,
head of the purchasing department at the Blackstone,
and Otto C. Staack, maitre d'hotel, should not be left
out. Muller, a veteran in the service of the Drake
family, is one of the foremost authorities on foodstuffs
in Chicago, while Staack was private steward to the
former Emperor Wilhelm in the early years of the
century.

For dinner, of course, nearly everyone goes to the
main dining room, done in the Louis XVI style and
commanding an impressive view over Michigan Avenue
and Chicago's Lake Front. It is a high-ceilinged hall,
old ivory in tone and modeled after the Petit Trianon
at Versailles. The service is of the highest perfection
and you can get everything here from that popular
Russian dish, Blenis Romanoff, to that great American
entree, young turkey, from the green hills of Vermont.

161

There is music during luncheon and dinner and the
menu is a la carte. Visiting diplomats, captains of in-
dustry, opera stars, financiers, governors and senators
and the first families of Chicago may be seen here almost
any evening.

The Blackstone Club Grill, in the basement, is
crowded during luncheon and especially before matinees
on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when women theatre-
goers occupy most of the tables. It is decorated in the
old English style, with walls of panelled walnut and
walnut furniture, and an open charcoal and electric
grill occupies one corner of the room. A table d'hote
matinee luncheon is served here for $1.50 per cover.
Four o'clock tea is the main offering in the Marble
Room, located oflF the lobby.
Mattre d'hotel: Otto C. Staack

SHEPARD TEA ROOM

616 South Michigan Avenue
Sssh! We are whispering this to you in the strictest
confidence and want you to be sure not to tell any-
body: the lowdown on the Shepard Tea Room is that
it is an inexpensive eating place for many actors and
actresses and others who stop next door in the swanky
and expensive Blackstone Hotel. It is situated at the
rear of an arcade of small shops in the lobby of the
Arcade Building and therefore away from the gaze of
Michigan Avenue promenaders. And we don't blame
the theatrical fold — and the others too — for coming
here, since the food is very good and the prices are
nothing if not reasonable.

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LAURA JACOBSEN'S 1014 South Michigan Avenue
This place is a large dining room, with no particular
decorative features, but serving food of substantial and
wholesome quality. It is open for luncheon and dinner
and the menu is both table d'hote and a la carte, and
prices are within the means of the average person.
Patronized mostly by business executives in the big sky-
scrapers at the south end of the downtown district, and
by clubwomen from nearby Avenue clubs. This is a
branch of the older establishment at 5311 Lake Park
Avenue, in Hyde Park, founded by Laura Jacobsen
many years ago.

THE STEVENS

Michigan Avenue, between 7th and 8 th Streets
James W. Stevens and his son, Ernest J. (present head
of the Stevens Hotel), introduced a quaint and unique
culinary custom into Chicago life when, a few years
back, they celebrated in their hotel the first Colchester
Oyster Feast to be held in America. It occurred on
Hallowe'en, and the Colchester Grill of the Stevens
that evening was crowded with the beauty and brilliance
of the Windy City. Since then, the feast has been held
annually in the Colchester Grill and it is always eagerly
looked forward to by many of the town's gourmets,
fashionables, and antiquarians.

In building what even a New Yorker will agree is
the world's largest hotel, the Stevenses made provisions
for honoring the birthplace of their ancestors, Colchester,
England, by conferring the name Colchester Grill on
one of their dining rooms. Colchester is a town situated
on the Colne River and is famous for its oyster beds.

163

History records that the Oyster Feast was first celebrated
in 1086, in early Norman days. Each year the date for
the feast is set by the Lord Mayor of Colchester. This
usually occurs in the latter part of October, but at the
Stevens it is definitely celebrated on Hallowe'en. Specif-
ically, the feast marks the official opening of the oyster
eating season and is an occasion for much feasting and
music and dancing.

On this night, the Colchester Grill menu ($2.50 per
person) is replete with old-fashioned English dishes,
beginning with giant Colchester native oysters on the
half shell, working through such substantial entrees as
York ham steak, grilled, with champagne sauce and
English chutney, or English roast beef with Yorkshire
pudding, and winding up with English plum pudding
with brandy sauce. After the meal, the Colchester
Oyster Show, consisting of vaudeville acts and other
forms of entertainment, begins in the Grand Ball Room
of the hotel. Afterwards, you may dance to your
heart's content.

The Colchester Grill, a beautifully decorated and
furnished room, is located on the first floor at the north
end of the hotel and its walls are painted with mural
scenes depicting the art and customs of Colchester. At
the entrance to the room you will see the portrait bust of
Mr. Justice Lent John Watts, mayor of Colchester, Eng-
land, in 1890, the work of H. Charles Grimwood, noted
English sculptor. There is a table d'hote luncheon for
85 cents and you can buy a similar dinner for $1.50.
An orchestra furnishes music.

Largest of the dining rooms at the Stevens is the
main dining room, overlooking Michigan Avenue and

164

the Lake Front. It is a large, magnificent room, done
in the Louis XVI style, and adorned with elaborate
murals by Norman Tolson. An interesting item on the
dinner menu is the English Compartment Plate Combi-
nation for $1.25. There is also a $2.00 table d'hote
dinner. On the luncheon menu, the Plate Combination
is 75 cents and the table d'hote $1.25. Music is furnished
by the Stevens orchestra.

At the south end of the hotel, just off Colchester Lane,
is located the Oak Room, panelled in sandblasted oak
and furnished with the most comfortable of chairs. It
is a smaller eating place and ideal for conversationally
inclined lunchers or diners. A 60 cent breakfast, a
l*) cent luncheon and a $1.50 dinner are served here.
There is music during dinner.

Something of a novelty is found in the Japanese
Lunch Room, a counter eating place located in the base-
ment and popular at noon among South Michigan
Avenue office workers. The walls are decorated with
scenic murals of Japan, and look for all the world like
greatly enlarged Japanese prints. It is open from 6:30
A.M. to 2:00 P.M.
Mattre d'hotel: Johii Thoss

LITTLE COZZI'S 1468 South Michigan Avenue

Little "Mickey" Cozzi, who conducted a popular
restaurant on West Taylor Street, among the fruit
stands of the west side Italian quarter, recently moved
his chef and staff of waiters and tables and chairs into
this old brown-stone residence in South Michigan Ave-
nue, thereby providing the salesmen and business men
of "Auto Row" a chance to partake of his excellent

165

Italian board, Cozzi's spaghetti with mushrooms is very
savory, and so are his veal scallopine and ravioli. His
friends from all over town have followed him here, and
at dinner the place is crowded.
Mattre d'hotel: Mickey Cozzi

LITTLE FLORENCE 2132 South Michigan Avenue
Now we are about two miles south of the Loop, in
the vicinity of 22nd Street, which, in the old days, was
Chicago's **Tenderloin,** or, as it was called, the red
light district. The Little Florence Italian Grill is located
across the street from the old Lexington Hotel, alleged
headquarters of the eminent Mr, "Scarface Al" Capone.
This almost mythical gent and some of his retainers are
said to eat their spaghetti not infrequently in the Little
Florence. We don't know whether this is true or not,
but we do know that the Italian dishes served here are
on a par with those served in other well-known Italian
restaurants of the town. Also, in case you should want
to know, you are as safe in the Little Florence as you are
in a church. The foods are good, the prices reasonable,
and the waiters polite.

BLOCK'S 1 1 6 East 22nd Street

Situated on the ground floor of the Lexington Hotel,
a few doors east of Michigan Avenue, this place has been
on 22nd Street a good many years and enjoys a heavy
patronage of men from surrounding automobile agencies
and business houses. The restaurant offers both counter
and table service and the food is commendable and
varied.

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AROUND THE WORLD

If you are one of those persons who have a natural
curiosity about all phases of life in a big city — and we
hope you are, or else you're missing a lot — there is no
pleasanter adventure we know of than that of eating
strange and exotic dishes in some obscure cafe or coffee
house of a crowded foreign quarter. An adventure of
this sort is also of keen interest to epicures who have
travelled widely and acquired a taste for the viands of
those countries they have visited.

Chicago, a bubbling melting-pot of practically all the
principal races in the world, offers splendid opportu-
nities for gastronomical gallivantings in foreign fields.
On the north side you will find the large German area,
with its many eating houses, and also the Swedish dis-
trict; northwest, along Milwaukee Avenue, lie the Polish
and Russian quarters; on the west side exist most of the
foreign quarters — the Greek, Mexican, Italian, Jewish,
Roumanian, and Bohemian; the Chinese, Arab, and
Japanese neighborhoods are found on the near south
side; in the Loop are an English chop house and a
corned beef and cabbage restaurant favored by the
Irish; and just north of the Loop are two Filipino res-

167

taurants, as well as a number of French eating places.
In the event that you are fastidious about the food
you eat, let us emphasize that the kitchens of the for-
eign restaurants named in this chapter can bear the
closest scrutiny as to cleanliness. They are open for your
inspection any time and we are sure that you will have
no cause for complaint.

CHINESE

WON KOW 22^ 5 Wentworth Avenue

Not just another chop suey parlor, but truly Chinese,
and situated in the middle of Chicago's 22nd Street
Chinatown, a mile or so south of the downtown district.
It is as Chinese as your laundry slip — in cuisine, ap-
pointments, and clientele. But Americans come here
too — judges, city officials, newspaper people, and theatri-
cal folk. All of these visitors know Frank Moy,
the venerable "Mayor of Chinatown," who, with
his chief aid, Tom Toy Lee, is part owner of the Won
Kow Restaurant. Order chicken bird's nest soup, fried
shrimps, chicken chow mein subgum, and kumquats if
you want a typical Cantonese dinner. The waiters here
are very courteous and will show you how to use chop
sticks in case you don't know how to handle them.
Observing discreetly the manner in which the Chinese
diners eat is an interesting diversion — and might be of

168

help to you in using the sticks. After you have finished
your meal, visit the Chinese ''city hall" across the street,
a large temple occupied by the On Leong Chinese Mer-
chants Association, of which Mr. Lee is president and
Mr. Moy secretary. They welcome visitors and the
beautiful rooms are worth seeing. The Won Kow is
open until 2 A.M.

Mattre d'botel: Mr. Lee (not Tom Toy)

ARABIAN

ORIENTAL CAFE 1Z14 South Wabash Avenue

From the Far East to the Near East is but a step in
Chicago. You have only to walk a few blocks north
of Chinatown and you are in the Arab quarter at 1 8th
Street and "Wabash Avenue. Here we turn you over to
Mr. Jamiel Salamy, an educated Arab rug merchant and
part owner of the Oriental Cafe, which is a typical base-
ment coflfee house of the quarter. He'll explain every-
thing and serve you the sort of meal the Bedouins eat
in the holy city of Mecca, say, or in the desert villages
of Arabia — kibbeh, made from meat ground with wheat,
fried, and then cut into little squares; arische mahshi,
grape leaves rolled in the form of sausages and stuffed
with rice and bits of lamb; and melfoof mahshi, which
is rolled cabbage. The dessert consists of baklawa and

169

Turkish coffee served demi-tasse. The Oriental Cafe
is unpretentious but clean.

Mattre d' hotel: Jamiel Salamy, or his brother Jaleel
Salamy

JAPANESE

MRS. SHINTANFS 3725 Lake Park Avenue

Here is something delightful and exotic — a full
course Japanese meal. Mrs. Shintani prepares it right
on the table before you, Japanese style, using a little
kitchenette size gas stove. You gaze interestedly as
she cooks the raw meats and vegetables preparatory to
serving a typical Nipponese suki-yaki meal. The table
is covered with tiny tea cups, bowls of rice, chop sticks,
and a cruet of soy sauce. There is nothing mysterious
about a suki-yaki meal; it simply means a method of
cooking thinly sliced pieces of beef in a frying pan at
the table. Vegetables and various Japanese sauces are
added during the cooking process and, after being fried
sufficiently, the suki-yaki, to be eaten with rice, is served
to each guest. Chop sticks, of course, should be used,
but you may use an ordinary American fork. Once you
eat a suki-yaki meal you'll swear it is the most savory
that has ever touched your palate. The boys from the
Japanese Y. M. C. A., down the street a bit, come to
Mrs. Shintani's board. She cooked for Prince and

170

Princess Takamatsu, the royal honeymooners from
Japan, when they visited Chicago. Should you desire
a Japanese meal, you must call Mrs. Shintani on the
phone a day in advance. Her number is Oakland 2775.
Don't miss this opportunity.

GREEK

PANHELLENIC RESTAURAlSfT

711 South Halsted Street
The best lamb chops in town. Leave it to a Greek
chef to prepare lamb chops in just the right way; he
ought to know because lamb is to the Greeks what
mutton is to the English. Here, they bring you a lamb
chop — thick, juicy and broiled to the proper turn.
We recommend their admirable chicken soup with ver-
micelli, and the French fried potatoes and combination
salad, suffused with olive oil, to go with your chops.
For dessert, there is thick black Turkish coflfee, and,
if you're willing, genuine white Greek cheese. There is
also that Balkan sweetmeat, baklawa. The Panhellenic,
in the midst of the South Halsted Street Greektown, is
clean, attractive, features cozy booths and the waiters
are polite. Many of the social service workers from
Hull-House, in the vicinity, dine here. An attractive
section of the Panhellenic is the summer garden, situated
at the rear of the restaurant in a small yard. You sit in
trelliswork stalls, a fountain bubbles, flowers and vines

171

are all about, and the summer stars twinkle over your
head. A delightful quiet place. All told, the Panhel-
lenic is worth a visit.

Maitre d^hotel: Mr. Tsouloufis

MEXICAN

EL PUERTO DE VERA CRUZ

811 South Halsted Street
Consuls and consular attaches from Latin-American
countries, Mexican caricature artists, Spanish tenors
from the Civic Opera, residents of Hull-House, news-
papermen, sightseeing students from the universities,
and gourmets — all these indulge their fondness for "hot"
dishes in this little unpretentious Mexican restaurant
directly across the street from Jane Addams' famed tene-
ment community center, Hull-House. Conducted by
the good Senor Juan Malpica, this place serves an ex-
cellent Mexican cuisine — sopa de arroz, a rich and tasty
rice soup with meat broth, not too hot; gallina con
molle poblado, which is chicken with a thick sauce
made, as its name implies, from "everything in the
kitchen;" the familiar frijoles refritos, consisting of
boiled beans, pulped and fried and served with Parmesan
cheese and raw Spanish onions; tortillas, like very thin
pancakes made of corn flour; and chocolate y pan, or,
in other words, hot spiced chocolate, which is the na-
tional beverage. Some of the well-known persons who
come here frequently are Al Careno, the Mexican cari-

172

cature artist; Silvano Ramos, the singer; Paco Parafan,
the dancer; Sam Fragas, editor of Mexico; Senor Busta-
mente, the pianist; and Senor Rafael Aveleyra, the Mexi-
can consul. The Puerto de Vera Cruz is open until late.

Maitre d' hotel: Juan Mai pica

ITALIAN

AMATO'S CAFE 914 South Halsted Street

Spaghetti restaurants are as plentiful in all parts of
town as chop suey parlors, but to get spaghetti in its
true native state you must go to the west side Little
Italy centering about South Halsted and Taylor Streets
— and to Amato's, when you get there. Amato's won-
derful antipasto; his heaping plates of spaghetti Na-
politano, sprinkled with mushrooms and covered with a
sauce having the faintest suggestion of garlic; his ad-
mirable roast chickens or his scallopine of veal al Marsala
— these are the dishes which attract Italian opera singers,
judges, business men and politicians as well as diners-out
from other parts of the city. The place is one flight up,
clean and comfortable, and the atmosphere is typically
Italian — which, in other words, means hospitable. Prices
average. Open all night.

Maitre d'hotel: Amato Magialuzzo

Other good Italian restaurants in the neighborhood

173

are JOHN CITRO'S, 1014 South Halsted Street;
SPINO'S, 942 Polk Street; and the MAULELLA RES-
TAURANT, 768 Taylor Street.

JEWISH

STRULEVITZ TEA HOUSE

929 West Roosevelt Road
Meet Papa Elias Strulevitz, proprietor of one of the
most interesting Jewish restaurants in town. Papa
Elias comes from Roumania and his establishment is a
mixture of Jewish cafe, Russian tea house, and American
restaurant, all rolled into one — which gives it a unique
atmosphere. His wife and his sister-in-law do the cook-
ing— and how they can cook. The food is plain, fresh,
wholesome, kosher, and served in a most palatable style,
and you can get all forms of Continental dishes here,
from Russian kasha and Roumanian steaks, to Jewish
gefiilte fish and chicken blintzes. Before Papa Elias
moved to this roomy street-corner restaurant a few
months ago, he served his meals in his little west side
home a short distance away on Sangamon Street. There
came the bons vivants and diners-out of the town —
Francis Coughlin, then on the staff of The Chicagoan;
John Landesco, the Roumanian criminologist; Morris
Topchevsky, the painter; the Roumanian consul; stu-
dents from the various universities; and lots of other
interesting people who like good foods. Today, they

174

have followed Papa Elias to his new place. He serves
luncheon and dinner — and we advise you not to miss
him. By the by, Papa Elias is quite a personality himself.

Maitre d'hotel: Elias Strulevitz

ROUMANIAN

GOLDSTEIN'S ^21 West 14th Street

A tenderloin steak, as only the Roumanians know how
to prepare it, awaits you in this unassuming restau-
rant on the first floor of Mrs. Goldstein's home over in
the Valley. Mrs. Goldstein, who is manager, cashier, wait-
ress and chef, prepares all of her steaks as in her native
Roumania — that is, by broiling over a charcoal fire.
The result is something that touches the palate in the
same manner that a Beethoven sonata touches the soul.
And you may pick out your own steak and watch her
broil it in the kitchen, noting incidentally the cleanli-
ness of her kitchen and everything in it. Served with
her delicious combination salad, pickles, and appetizing
rye bread (which has caraway seeds in it), this steak
dinner is something that will remain long in your mem-
ory. And don't forget to make ample use of the tiny
dried seeds from the red pepper pods on the table —
these give your steak an added tang. Mrs. Goldstein
serves only two other entrees, broiled liver and sweet-

175

breads. For an appetizer, she serves anchovies and, on
certain days, chopped chicken Hver. We heartily rec-
ommend Goldstein's when your thoughts turn toward
a steak. This was the favorite eating place of Tine
Bimbo, king of the gypsies. Open until midnight.

Maitre d'hotel: Mrs. Goldstein

BOHEMIAN

GLASER'S CAFE 35 51 West 26th Street

Where the musicians, newspaper editors, writers, and
leaders of the west side Bohemian quarter foregather.
Dr. Jaroslav Smetanka, consul for Czechoslovakia,
comes here when in the mood for his native Bohemian
viands; here many visiting celebrities from the home-
land are banqueted; here also Mayor Anton Cermak ate
in the days when he was a minor political figure. Charles
Glaser, who is somewhat of a bibliophile and philosopher
in addition to being a first-rate restaurateur, has been
conducting this place on the main business street of the
Bohemian quarter for the past thirteen years and his
friends are legion. All the well-known Bohemian dishes
are on the Glaser menu — plum dumpling, with poppy-
seeds or cottage cheese (served only between the months
of June and December) ; roast duck with sauerkraut;
Prague salami with raw onions; roast goose and roast loin

176

of pork, both with sauerkraut; liver sausage; and the
various delightful Bohemian pastries, such as kolacky
and buchty smaken. Glasher's is open from 7 A.M.
to 1 A.M. and the menu is a la carte.
Mattre d' hotel: Charles Glaser

RUSSIAN

RUSSIAN WORKERS' CO-OPERATIVE

RESTAURANT 162S West Division Street

Situated in the Russian quarter on the northwest side,
this dining place has a menu that would certainly make
an underfed comrade over in Soviet Russia green with
envy. For not only do you find here a comprehensive
line of ordinary American foods but all the standard
Russian dishes are on the menu — borscht, that tasty
thick red soup consisting of beets and milk; kasha, made
of buckwheat grits with a sauce of bacon and mush-
rooms, and goluptse, which is rolled cabbage stuffed
with various meats. A tumbler of amber-tinted Rus-
sian tea, some fruit, and a cigarette finishes off the meal
nicely. Now that you are at leisure, look about you
and observe the comrades reading The Daily Worker,
for this is a dining place for communists as well as for
old conservative White Russians. It is spotlessly clean and
the prices are reasonable. And don't be afraid — nobody
will toss a bomb.

Mattre d' hotel: Mr. Kutzko

177

POLISH

LENARD'S RESTAURANT

1182 Milwaukee Avenue
As for Polish viands, you will find these done to per-
fection in Mr. Ignace Lenard's establishment on Mil-
waukee Avenue, around the corner from the Russian
eating place. A quick glance over the menu shows that
the Polish people are great lovers of mushrooms and
use them as a garniture for many of their important
dishes. We recommend the Zrazki po Nelsonsku or,
in other words, the beef filet a la Nelson, which comes
to you arrayed in sour cream gravy, mushrooms and
potatoes, served en casserole. Or you might like another
of Mr. Lenard's specialties — meat balls with mushrooms.
Cheese pancakes, the way they are prepared here, make
a delectable accompanying dish. And Mr. Lenard's
three expert pastry cooks from Krakow provide you
with as bewildering an assortment of frothy, toothsome,
and delicious things to eat with your coffee as you may
find in all Chicago. Lenard's is the headquarters of
prominent Polish-American gourmets of the city —
County Judge Edmund K. Jarecki, City Treasurer M.
S. Szymczak; the two bankers, August J. Kowalski and
Julius Smetanka, and John Romaszkiewicz, president of
the Polish National Alliance. Polish newspapermen and
business men, and their families, eat here too.

Maitre d* hotel: Mr. Lenard

178

GERMAN

LINCOLN TURNER HALL CAFE

1005 Diver sey Parkway

Like a breath from Unter den Linden. A German
orchestra plays compositions by Strauss, Mozart, and
Wagner; imported oil paintings adorn the walls; the
dining room is large and colorful, with red predominat-
ing; waiters of thick accent careen hither and yon with
steins of (near) beer; stout Teutonic papas and their
families eat sauerbraten or kartoffel kloesse; and all is
lively, crowded, colorful, and Continental.

The dining room is located on the ground floor of
the Lincoln Turner Hall, an old landmark in the center
of the north side German area. It is conducted by
August and Fred Marx, cousins, who formerly ran
Marx's *'Beer Tunnel," a basement sauerkraut and beer
establishment in the Loop in the old days. They are
widely known among German-Americans of the city
and many of their old friends are always present at din-
ner in the Lincoln Turner Hall dining room.

Music is featured only during dinner. The table
d'hote dinners are $1.00 and $1.25; luncheons are 50 and
75 cents. All of the standard German dishes are on the
menu, as well as the regular American items, and the
cooking here is in the hands of expert German chefs.

Mattre d'hotel: August Marx

179

SWEDISH

IDROTT SWEDISH CO-OPERATIVE CAFE

3204 Wilton Avenue

One of the interesting restaurants in Chicago. Owned
and conducted entirely by the residents of Herring
Lane, as the Swedish neighborhood along Belmont Ave-
nue, on the north side, is called. Organized into a so-
ciety, they elect officers to manage the restaurant and
all other activities which have made of their modern
two-story building a sort of Swedish community center.
They have a library, public bakery, lecture hall and
card rooms. Waitresses will serve coffee while you read
your newspaper or play checkers. But it is the food we
are concerned with — and what food! What rare ar-
rangements in fish — fresh, salted, smoked or lye soaked.
This last is the justly celebrated Swedish lutfisk, a kind
of cod fish given a lye treatment but, of course, cleansed
thoroughly of lye before serving. It's very appetizing.
But don't begin your meal until you have paid your
gustatory respects to the smorgasbord — that great Swed-
ish institution, similar to the French hors d'oeuvres, but
far more expansive. It is a table loaded down with ap-
petizers of all kinds — fish, cheeses, sausages, cold meats,
olives, celery — and you may help yourself to as much
as you like. For typical Swedish entrees there is kott-
bullar, which means meat balls, or stekt salt sill, the
familiar salt herring, fried. And to be really Swedish
you must eat either Swedish rye bread or the hard-
tackish knackebrod with this meal. On Thursdays they

180

serve a special Swedish dinner composed of pea soup,
potato sausages and plattar, which is a small Swedish
pancake, especially delicious with the Lingonberry jam
that goes with it. Anybody may eat at the Idrott Cafe
and the prices are amazingly cheap.

Maitre d'botel: Mr. Carlson

FILIPINO

MANILA VILLAGE CAFE 8 3 7 North La Salle Street
Filipino cookery, a combination of Oriental, Spanish,
and native edibles, is something new in Chicago and is
fast winning the favor of Chicago friends of the Fil-
ipinos as well as lovers of foreign viands. Here, in this
plain undecorated restaurant in the basement of the
Filipino Community Center, these dishes from over the
Pacific are prepared in a highly appetizing manner and
in true native style. There is pansit, a sort of appetizer
composed of ravioli, bits of meat, noodles and dried
shrimps; adobo, an entree, which is spare ribs of pork,
fried, steamed, and served in a transparent brown gravy
with just a touch of garlic in it; and shrimps guisado,
composed of shrimps and celery suffused with soy sauce;
and Filipino cabbage and chop suey. And, as in Chinese
and Japanese restaurants, you are supposed to eat plenty
of rice from the bowl before you. Most of the boys
from the surrounding Filipino colony eat here, as well
as the local leaders of the race, including Pablo Katigbak,

181

staff writer of the Chicago Daily Netus, There is an-
other Fihpino restaurant around the block on the second
floor at 642 North Clark Street, where the same native
dishes are served. It is conducted by Pedro Abicilla,
who is a student at the University of Chicago. Visitors
are welcomed at both places.

182

DINING IN BOHEMIA

Tower Town, the Greenwich Village or the Latin
Quarter of Chicago, lies across the river on the near
north side. It derives its name from the old Chicago
Avenue water tower, an historic landmark at Chicago
Avenue and Upper Michigan Avenue, in the center of
the district.

What its boundaries are, it is hard to define; some
aspects of it are found in the elegant precincts of the
Gold Coast north of Division Street, but it is safe to
assume that Tower Town life does not definitely get
under way until after Division Street is crossed south-
ward; parts of it are also found west of Clark Street;
at its lower end, it jumps Michigan Avenue and goes
eastward into Streeterville, that area of ritzy apartment
hotels; on the south it ends abruptly at Grand Avenue.
State Street is the main north-south highway through
it, and Chicago Avenue bisects it from east to west.

Now that you have a more or less geographical lay-
out of Tower Town, the rest is up to you. We offer
you the following selection of curious and quaint and
foreign eating places in Tower Town with the hope that,
somewhere among them, you will find that elusive some-

183

thing which causes people to go to Greenwich Village
in New York or to the Latin Quarter in Paris. Any-
way, we hope you have a good time.

RAVENNA RESTAURANT

1205 North La Salle Street
Hungarian food and atmosphere. Like a little cafe
in old Budapest. No artificial "scenery" but the at-
mosphere is as Hungarian as the delightful goulash that
Gene Ziegler serves. Popular among the bohemians of
Tower Town, newspapermen, artists, and visiting Hun-
garian theatrical stars. Pen portraits of many of the
celebs who visit here line the walls. Real Hungarian
gypsy musicians play the tunes of Franz Liszt and
other Continental composers, as well as Hungarian folk
ballads, from 6 P.M. to 2 A.M. Gene Ziegler, the
hearty proprietor, sometimes cooks savory specialties
himself, as does Bill, the popular head waiter. Naturally,
such Hungarian dishes as chicken paprika, rolled stuflFed
cabbage, sausage, and goulash, are served better here
than elsewhere in the town. There is a 65 cent table
d'hote dinner. Lincoln 1702.

MARGHERITA ITALIAN RESTAURANT

1121 North State Street
Good spaghetti and ravioli from the hands of a chef
who knows his business. Not a few debs and their boy
friends from the Gold Coast nearby are seen here nightly.
There is a seven course table d'hote dinner for $L00.
Cuisine Francaise et Italienne. One flight up. Dela-
ware 0466.

184

NORTH STAR INN 1 5 West Division Street

Another Italian place, here for many years. Occupies
an old one-story stucco house. Small-time actors and
actresses from the nearby Claridge Hotel, newspaper-
men, artists, and couples stealing away from formal
dances at the Drake Hotel, come here during the late
hours. One section has tables and the other cozy booths.
Ask for Adolph. Delaware 0592.

A BIT OF SWEDEN 1011 Rush Street

One of the quaintest and most charming of the many
foreign restaurants in Tower Town. It is a high-class
Swedish peasant restaurant and the foods are delicious
and wholesome. You help yourself to all the appetizers
you want — sardines, herring, cheese, olives, celery,
salad — from the smorgasbord, or Swedish hors d'oeuvres
table. Prices are reasonable and luncheon and dinner
are served. The room is appropriately decorated with
Swedish objets d'art and the blonde waitresses are in
costume. Delaware 1492.

LA ROSETTA 1045 Rush Street

Occupying an old mansion. La Rosetta has been here
for a long time. And there's a reason. Excellent
Italian and French dishes, and the personality of the
great Gino himself, have been the factors which built
up this establishment's clientele — some of whom are
Gold Coasters. The atmosphere is dignified and Con-
tinental and there are always interesting people at the
tables. Delaware 0468.

185

CAFE KANTONESE 1005 Rush Street

Chinese cuisine in a small place that is modern and
colorful in decoration rather than Chinese. No teak-
wood tables or mother-of-pearl furniture. Here, the
bohemians eat plenty of chop suey and chicken chow
mein when they have the price — which isn*t often.

BALLANTINE'S 942 Rush Street

Established by Edward B. Ballantine, formerly of the
exclusive Casino Club. The steaks and chops served
here rate high in quality, and the other dishes are of no
small merit. Open for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and
after-the-theatre. Both a la carte and table d'hote serv-
ice. The front portion of the restaurant contains high
oaken booths while at the rear is a large dining room,
done in the English tavern style. Delaware 0050.

SEVEN ARTS 12 1/2 West Delaware Place

Here is bohemia — if you must have it. This is a typical
Tower Town forum, located on the second floor of an
old stable at the rear of a garden. Lectures are held
here on Saturday and Sunday nights. Anybody may
go — if he pays the small admission charge. But the
point that concerns us is that food is served here —
mostly sandwiches, salads, and coflfee or tea. We men-
tion the Seven Arts in case you want to eat in a truly
bohemian atmosphere.

SOUTHERN TEA SHOP 47 East Oak Street

A quiet and charming tea room in a brownstone
front, where prices are very reasonable and the colored
waitresses are polite and attentive. Such specialties of

186

the Southland as Southern fried chicken, date torte, and
hot Southern biscuits are popular items on the menu.
The table d'hote luncheon is 50 cents and the dinner is
75 cents. This is No. 2 of the tea shop chain established
by Miss Annie Sara Bock, a well-known Chicago restau-
rateur. Delaware 0817.

TORINO ITALIAN RESTAURANT

104 East Oak Street
Another eating parlor occupying an old residence. A
stone's throw from Lake Shore Drive, the Torino has its
share of the beau monde among its patrons. Italian
dishes, as you may readily guess, are offered here. It is
open until late at night and is most crowded after the
theatre. Delaware 3889.

TOWER TOWN TEA ROOM 43 East Oak Street
Luncheons and dinners at prices within the means of
those who live in the many studios and rooming houses
of the near north side. The food served here has its
merits and the waitresses are alert and civil. Delaware
2047.

K-9 CLUB 105 East Walton Place

An odd sort of a place, serving luncheons, dinners,
and after-theatre suppers — in fact, any kind of meal
any time of day or night. The luncheons are 3 5 cents.
Stenographers from the Palmolive Building on Michigan
Avenue come here, as well as clerks and taxi drivers.
It is alleged to be an eating place for radio and theatrical
stars, but few, if any, are ever seen here. Photographs
of the stars adorn the walls. Once, a dog club occupied

187

these quarters, hence the name **K-9." The place fea-
tures Pig's Feet Alley, where pig's feet are served. Dela-
ware 0605.

THE WALTON TEA HOUSE 75 East Walton Place
A pleasant tea room with New England atmosphere,
occupying a cottage. Foods are wholesome and the cook-
ing plain. The butterscotch pie is delicious. Luncheons
are 5 0 cents. There are a few specialties at dinner. Dela-
ware 2024.

RICKETTS 1004 North Clark Street

Although a standard American white-tiled lunch
room and restaurant, Ricketts has always been a favo-
rite eating place of many of the bohemians of Tower
Town. Perhaps this may be due to the fact that it is
open all night — and you know how bohemians like to
sit around over their coffee and cigarettes and talk at
all hours of the night. The food is good and the prices
are standard. Lincoln 4824.

DILL PICKLE CLUB 1 8 Tooker Place

Are there people living here who haven't heard of the
Dill Pickle Club? What Mecca is to a Mohammedan
the Dill Pickle Club is to the bohemians of Chicago —
and to those who merely come to see the bohemians. It
is a center of night life activities in Tower Town and is
the most often visited and most often denounced of near
north side bohemian haunts. The walls are adorned with
garish paintings, the dance room is dark and dusty and
dimly-lit, the little theatre is awfully little, the garden
is popular on summer nights, and the cofiFee shop serves

188

coflfee and a few light foods that are tolerable. Jack
Jones, the bushy-haired, who founded the Dill Pickle,
and his mild-mannered sister prepare goodly assort-
ment of sandwiches for the Wednesday night literary
crowd, the Saturday night dancing and drgyjia crowd,
and the Sunday night lecture crowd. DorTt miss the
Dill Pickle. It is not a club but a free-for-all place.
Delaware 0669.

SUNRISE SEA FOOD GROTTO 901 Rush Street
Where the near north side eats its sea foods. All
kinds of finny edibles during their respective seasons.
One reason this place is so popular is that it is open all
night. You never know at what hour of the night
you are likely to feel in a mood for oysters or lobsters
and such. Delaware 0470.

BOB'S COFFEE SHOP 905 Rush Street

A Godsend to those Tower Towners who are more
lean of purse than others — and there are plenty of the
former. Here you will see poor poets and painters, of
both genders, eating Bob's 3 5 cent luncheons and 50 cent
dinners. The food is plain and home cooked and just
the thing to keep soul and body together until such time
as your ship comes in.

LA RUE'S DINING ROOM 900 Rush Street

The opposite of Bob's Coffee Shop. Being the main
dining room of the Maryland Hotel, La Rue's is dignified
and rather elegantly furnished with oak panelled walls
and gay lighting fixtures and the like. Steaks and chops

189

are popular here, as well as the pastries. Open for break-
fast, luncheon, and dinner. Superior 4568.

SHIP'S CAFE 913 Rush Street

Probably one of the craziest — and therefore popular
— eating establishments in Chicago. You may carve
your initials on the wooden table top if you like. Glossy
photographs of movie stars decorate the walls. Triangu-
lar flags drip from all parts of the ceiling like icicles.
Real candles sputter on the tables. Portholes adorn the
walls. At the rear is the Pirate's Den — small, dim, and
full of painted skulls and cross-bones. Donald Austin,
the entertaining proprietor, says he knows what the
public wants and he gives it to them. The Ship's Cafe
has recently become popular among the younger element
of fresh-water sailors — ^the lads who man yachts along
the waterfront. Aside from the novelty atmosphere of-
fered here, Donald serves good sirloin steaks, lake trout,
and whitefish. His prices are standard and his place is
open for luncheon and dinner. Delaware 0683.

CASA DE ALEX 58 East Delaware Place

The atmosphere and food of old Madrid — and the
dance music of these United States. Don Alexander,
the proprietor, a big dark Spaniard, knows lots of people
in town, having been manager of the extinct Samovar
Cafe in South Michigan Avenue. The standard Ameri-
can dishes are served here, prepared in appetizing style.
You can also order a special Spanish meal, cooked by a
real Spanish cook. The walls are decorated with original
oil paintings by Alexander's wife, an artist of no small
talent. Here, at dinner, you are likely to see one or two

190

celebs almost any evening — Edward Gorey, political edi-
tor of the American; Thomas Ross, the actor; Aline
Stanley, the actress; Jess Krueger, the newspaperman and
American Legion official; Gene Morgan, the columnist;
and Bob Andrews, the novelist. They are all friends of
hearty Don Alexander. The Casa de Alex is a favorite
with out-of-towners; we don't know how the word gets
around. Dancing in the evening. No rowdy stuflF al-
lowed. Small, intimate. Afternoon teas attract many
women, but there are no gigolos. Superior 9697.

GONDOLA INN 837 North State Street

French and Italian cooking. One flight up. Open for
luncheon and dinner. Prices within the means of near
north siders who live in rooming houses. The spaghetti
is good.

OLD VENICE CAFE 755 North Dear horn Street
Another Italian place, in the basement of the historic
Rice Hotel. Here for three or four years, the Old
Venice has maintained its prestige by reason of the ex-
cellence of its cooking and the atmosphere of convi-
viality. It is open until late at night and you may
dance to the music of a radio. Delaware 008 L

BLACKTHORN TAVERN

51 East Chicago Avenue
An old English tavern in the basement of Younker's
retail and wholesale grocery store, "west of the water
tower." Rough walls, hewn oak beams, leaded glass
windows, benches around the walls, Windsor chairs, and
rough-topped oak tables. Pieces of old china, brass, and

191

copper, as well as sporting prints and trophies of the
hunt, adorn the walls. Open for luncheon and dinner
each day, and also for Sunday dinner. There are 50
and 65 cent luncheons, and $1.00 and $1.25 dinners,
in the Tavern. Steaks and chicken dinners are a spe-
cialty. The foods served here are a credit to the estab-
lishment. Alice G. Crane, president and manager of
Younker's, is to be complimented for the service and
for her skill in picking out alert and polite waitresses,
who, by the way, are trim enough in their tight bodices
and full skirts. Whitehall 5300.

ROUND TABLE INN 57 East Chicago Avenue

Another Godsend to the poor artists and writers of
the quarter. Located in the basement of the Vogel &
Company grocery store. You walk through the store,
pass behind the counter, and enter a door leading to the
basement. No fancy decorations, but all is clean and
fresh and intimate. There are a number of large round
tables under the shaded lamps. But the thing that
crowds the Round Table Inn each evening is the well-
cooked table d'hote dinner for 50 cents. Which, let us
repeat, is a Godsend to many Tower Towners. Superior
3886.

SOUTHERN TEA SHOP 745 Rush Street

First of the chain of tea shops founded by Miss Annie
Sara Bock. Luncheons 50 cents and dinners 75 cents.
Southern atmosphere, intelligent colored waitresses, and
a few Southern dishes. The food in general is very
good. Many of the newspapermen, artists, and musi-

192

cians who live in the studios over the tea shop dine here.
Delaware 0328.

AMBER PIE 118 East Superior Street

One of the first of the tea shops on the near north
side. The little old frame house it occupies is a familiar
sight to strollers along Upper Michigan Avenue. The
food is carefully prepared, wholesome, and varied. The
Misses Helm, who established this place over ten years
ago, are known all over town for their delicious amber
pie, a specialty of the house. There are always interest-
ing people here at dinner. Table d'hote luncheons are
60 cents and similar dinners are $1.00. Also a la carte.
Plenty of room, both upstairs and downstairs. Dela-
ware 3719.

CASA LAGO 213 East Superior Street

Occupying an old town residence east of the Avenue.
Italian foods and hearty Italian hospitality at the hands
of John Luccaci, well-known restaurateur of the near
north side and former proprietor of the Old Venice Cafe
on Dearborn Street. Open late and prices easy on your
budget. Lots of newspaper people and about-towners
at the tables during dinner.

CHEZ DORE 212 East Erie Street

This French restaurant gets most of its patrons from
the studios, office buildings, and business establishments
east of the Avenue. Like so many of the restaurants on
the near north side, Chez Dore is also in an old town
house. Luncheon and dinner ($1.50) are served and

193

the foods, cooked by an expert French chef, are varied
and savory.

ERIE INN 153 East Erie Street

Occupying the former location of the Vassar House
and conducted by the former manager of said Vassar
House. A quiet, refined place for luncheon, tea, or
dinner. You will not be disappointed in the food. Dela-
ware 2334.

HUNGARIAN RESTAURANT

63 7 North Michigan Avenue
Hungarian goulash, chicken paprika, rolled cabbage,
sausages, and other dishes that people eat in Budapest
await your palate here. It is not a fancy place; just a
collection of chairs and tables and a few pictures on the
walls. But the dishes are good and substantial and the
prices not the least bit high.

HOLLAND TEA ROOM 157 East Ontario Street
We don't know why this place is called the Holland
Tea Room, since no Dutch dishes are served here. The
menu is a regular American tea room menu. Although
disappointed in not finding any Dutch dishes, we were
not disappointed in the quality of the cooking. Open
for luncheon and dinner. This place has a good-sized
clientele and is one of the better places east of the
Avenue. Delaware 3810.

THE LITTLE GARDEN 160 East Ontario Street

Another tea room, rather quaint and interesting.

194

Occupying a little house at the rear of a garden. New
England atmosphere and food and such. Open for
luncheon, tea, and dinner. Restful and away from the
noises of the street.

EASTGATE GRILL 1 62 East Ontario Street

Not only do residents of the Eastgate Hotel eat here,
but many others from the surrounding neighborhood
partake of the commendable Eastgate board. Open for
breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and after-the-theatre. The
steaks and chops and sandwiches seem to make the big-
gest hit. Superior 3 580.

COLONIAL TEA SHOP 619 Rush Street

Luncheon 50 cents and dinner 7S cents, and a steady
clientele. Another tea room occupying an old residence.
This one is interesting, with its many rooms and ornate
wooden stairways. Delaware 0956.

G T RESTAURANT 100 East Ohio Street

This place took over the Triangle Restaurant idea of
poetic menus and carried it much further. The dishes
are described in the most glowing terms and you are
bound to get hungry reading them. They have one
specialty, unique in Chicago. Steaks are cooked in trian-
gular tin pans, and are served in them with the natural
juice. Many a hand is burned from touching these pans,
but the steaks are thick, tender, and delicious. And you
will enjoy the amusing drawings of chefs and cooks and
bakers painted in modernistic style on the walls. Open
until late. Delaware 1510.

195

VIRGINIA DINING ROOM

KusJd and Ohio Streets
Old-fashioned atmosphere and old-fashioned food.
Being old fashioned, the food is fresh, wholesome, and
skillfully prepared. This is the main dining room of
that old landmark of the near north side, the Virginia
Hotel, built shortly before the World's Fair of 1893.
A unique feature of the room is the huge, beautifully-
carved wooden Norman church altar, made in 1546 and
exhibited at the World's Fair. Cyrus Hall McCormick
is said to have owned it but, not finding room for it in
his home, he turned it over to the Virginia Hotel. Carved
with hundreds of little human figures, this altar is
eminently worth seeing. And the food here is worth
eating. Superior 1690.

FRASCATI'S 619 Nmth Wabash Avenue

An old-timer in Tower Town, as restaurants go. Has
a wide reputation for first-rate Italian and French cook-
ing. This one too occupies an old town house, across
the street from the big Medinah Temple. Not a few
celebrities are seen here in the evening. Mentioned in
John Gunther's novel, "The Red Pavilion." Whether
such mention gives it added prestige, we don't know,
but the spaghetti, ravioli, and filet mignon here are un-
forgettable. Open for luncheon and dinner. Delaware
0714.

VICTOR HOUSE 9 East Grand Avenue

Italian restaurants are as thick on the near north side
as cats in Siam. Here is another one. The Victor House,
however, is one of the more important ones, having

196

quite a few patrons from among the ranks of local
politicians and city office holders. And where politicians
eat you can always conclude that the food is good.
Luncheon and dinner are served here. Delaware 0712.

SUBWAY CAFE 507 North Wabash Avenue

Latest of the basement eating houses in Tower Town.
It is open late, the atmosphere is informal, and there
is always someone around to play the piano. Steaks and
chops are featured and good Southern cooking. The
service is a la carte and the prices are within reason.

THE PHALANSTERY 915 Rush Street

Both the soul and the body is fed at the Phalanstery, a
small restaurant featuring sea foods and lectures on
life and letters. It is conducted by Jack Ryan, a well-
known Tower Towner, and his wife, and oflfers sand-
wiches, coflfee, and a variety of sea foods on its menu.
The Phalanstery was the name of the edifice in which
the community of the Fourierites lived in France. Local
writers and philosophers lecture at Ryan's establishment
on Saturday evenings.

197

AMERICANA

One of the most interesting features of Ruth Page's
"American Evening" party, held recently in honor of
Mary Wigman, the noted German dancer, was the
buflfet supper of typical American dishes. It was the
first time we became actively conscious of native
American viands in relation to the viands of other
countries and it led us into a study of the subject. Such
familiar items as baked Virginia ham, Boston baked
beans, corned beef, red hots, watermelon pickles. South-
ern hot biscuits, coffee, and ice cream cones were pro-
vided by the charming Chicago dancer and her husband
and, needless to say. Miss Wigman ate these dishes with
keen relish — as did the Chicagoans present. We came
away with two questions: What are typical American
dishes and where can they be found to best advantage
in Chicago?

We discovered at the outset that the most popular
American contribution to the world's edibles is the
turkey. In England, Germany, and France it is re-
garded as the most savory of the domestic fowls and
it is found on the menus of all first-class restaurants in
those countries. Brillat-Savarin, the great French epi-
cure, in 1825 wrote these words in tribute to the king of

199

American table fowls: "The turkey is certainly one of
the most beautiful presents which the New World has
made to the Old . . . Only in America has the turkey
been found in a wild state, and in a state of nature."

More detailed information on native American dishes,
however, was found in a book by that modern American
counterpart of Brillat-Savarin — Julian Street. In his
"Where Paris Dines," Street describes fifteen restaurants
in Paris where American foods may be obtained. And
then he names the conventional American dishes — grape-
fruit, ham and eggs, wheat cakes with Vermont maple
syrup, corned-beef hash and poached egg, fried chicken
with corn fritters a la Maryland, waffles, baked Idaho
potatoes, corn on the cob, strawberry shortcake. New
England boiled dinner, venison, bear meat, codfish,
pompano, watermelon, corned beef and cabbage, Ham-
burger steak, sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce.

Our study of this subject came to a head when we
discovered Alfred Fries, the final authority on American
viands and his little book, "The Blue Book of American
Dishes," which is a distinct contribution to Americana.
As far as we know, it is the only book of its kind. Here,
Chef Fries tells you how to prepare dishes which origi-
nated in America, or European dishes which were altered
by the American style of preparation. All of the dishes
named by Julian Street are here, and such additional
ones as chop suey, broiled mallard duck, club sandwich,
Denver sandwich, hominy, Philadelphia pepper pot. Lake
Superior whitefish, candied yams, Philadelphia scrapple,
pumpkin pie, cornbread. New England mince pie, hoe
cakes, and ice cream. Here is what Chef Fries says
about the sandwich:

200

**The term *sandwich' is supposed to be derived from
the Earl of Sandwich, who, so tradition relates, was an
inveterate gambler and who, because he did not want to
be disturbed while playing, ate his meat placed between
two slices of bread. From this humble beginning the
sandwich has grown into universal favor, especially in
our own United States. It is a quick and easy way to
satisfy the inner man and quite acceptable as a snack
between regular meals. It would be easy to write a
whole volume on sandwiches alone, so great is their
variety."

An interesting sidelight on our researches was the en-
thusiasm shown in typical native dishes by such highly
indigenous American writers in Chicago as Carl Sand-
burg, Sherwood Anderson, John T. Frederick, and
Howard Vincent O'Brien. We found out that they
often eat in the one-arm lunch rooms, cafeterias, and
sandwich shops of the Loop, finding in them foods as
wholesome and palatable as the French, German, and
other Continental dishes featured on the menus of the
first-class restaurants.

Where, in Chicago, does one find these dishes to best
advantage? Exactly in the center of the Loop. In our
estimation, Clark Street, in the vicinity of Madison, pro-
vides the greatest array of typical American quick-
lunch restaurants. This section of Clark Street is some-
times called "Toothpick Row" because of the many
lunchers standing along the curb in front of the restau-
rants at high noon on a summer's day, busily and un-
abashedly manipulating toothpicks. The restaurants
here are mostly of the white-tiled counter variety —
crowded, loud with the clatter of crockery and the

201

shouting of orders, and blatant with advertising matter.
But they are typically American and serve the standard
American dishes for the great mass of the people.

Here, then, in the following named restaurants along
"Toothpick Row," you will find the dishes that Chef
Fries lists in his book — the dishes which the great middle
class eat so avidly at the noon lunch hour. Representa-
tives of the principal "chain" restaurants in town are
here, as well as independent ones, and all are so close
together as to make this section of Clark Street an Ap-
pian Way for the luncheon crowds.

HOTEL PLANTER'S COFFEE SHOP

19 North Clark Street
A small, hole-in-the-wall sort of place, on the ground
floor of the Planter's Hotel, one of the old hostelries of
the Loop. Good sandwiches, coflfee and dessert, and
quick service. Patronized mostly by sportsmen, race
horse fans, and residents of the hotel.

RAKLIO'S 3 North Clark Street

Both counter and table service — with men seeming to
favor the counters and stenographers and girl clerks
preferring the tables. Good table d'hote and a la carte
luncheons, at average prices, and oflFering all the regular
American edibles. The decor is in the bleak, white-
tiled tradition, but everything is neat and clean and the
waitresses are alert. One of the Raklio "chain" of
restaurants.

MITCHELL'S IS South Clark Street

Another eating place, a la Americain. Mitchell's, be-
sides its conventional table d'hote and a la carte menu,

202

oflfers a small steak luncheon for 3 5 cents. Of good
quality and done to the proper turn, these steaks have
made the fame of the house. Everyday at noon Mitchell's
is packed — and ninety per cent of the customers order
the small steak.

W-R SANDWICH SHOP 20 South Clark Street

That great American viand, the hot dog, is the main
attraction here. A long, very narrow room, this place
is a madhouse at noon; men and boys actually wait in
line for their chance to partake of the tasty wienies
that sizzle in the window. A hot dog sandwich, made
with a fresh roll; a cup of coffee; and a piece of pie
(in summer pie a la mode) make up most of the lunch-
eons here. Many of the patrons order two hot dog
sandwiches. Another specialty of the house is Ham-
burger steak. Potato pancakes with apple sauce and
cheese cake are more items that are popular here.

PIXLEY AND EHLERS 22 South Clark Street

Tantalizing cherry pies and pastries of all sorts — observe
them being prepared before your eyes in the window of
Pixley and Ehlers. Note the pastry cooks, the flour and
the bulbous piles of dough and the ovens in the back-
ground. This is the home of the American pie — juicy,
flaky, and using all the conventional fruits. They also
feature an *'Old Fashioned Farm Breakfast Special,"
consisting of wheatcakes (whole wheat or buckwheat,
as you please) with Mickelberry's sausages, and plenty
of syrup and a cup of coflfee. The whole comes to 20
cents. Pork and beans, sandwiches, and ham and eggs
are also served here.

203

ARCADE CAFETERIA 'b2 South Clark Street

And now we come to the cafeteria style of restaurant, an
institution as American as the Statue of Liberty. Most
of the first-class cafeterias in Chicago, such as the
Ontra and Harmony, are located on Wabash Avenue,
where they cater to the employees of State Street depart-
ment stores. Here, at the Arcade, you have a represen-
tative example of this style of restaurant. It is located
on the second floor of the Arcade Building. Fresh vege-
tables are featured here, including the New England
boiled dinner.

LEIGHTON CO-OPERATIVE DAIRY

RESTAURANT 40 South Clark Street

As its name indicates, the Leighton features dairy dishes.
A clean attractive place, serving a good 40 cent luncheon,
which includes other typical American dishes than those
made of dairy products. Southern hash with poached
Qg^i for example. This is very good here.

B-G SANDWICH SHOP 109 South Clark Street

The United States seems to have gone in for the Earl
of Sandwich's invention in a big way. Probably no other
agency is more responsible for this than the B-G Sand-
wich Shops, which are to be found in all the principal
cities. Is there anybody who doesn't relish the type of
sandwiches served in a B-G place — those three-deckers,
toasted, and made with such wholesome edibles? The
most popular of these sandwiches is the B-G Special,
composed of various meats and Mayonnaise dressing.
Their coffee is also of first-rate quality, prepared as it is
by special process. And the pies are something which

204

make you feel glad that you're eating in a B-G place.
We highly recommend a B-G Sandwich Shop for a light
snack on a hot summer's day.

WALGREEN 'S Anywhere in the Loop

Newest of the American dishes, which has made a great
hit, is the inner-toasted sandwich, served only in Wal-
green drug stores. It is a good-sized bun with its in-
sides toasted and filled with various meats or other foods
— beef saute, chicken salad, frankfurter, melted Ameri-
can cheese, or tuna fish salad. A deviled egg and a cup
of coffee or tea go with it and the whole costs 25 cents.
Everybody eats them at noon in Walgreen's.

E. W. RIECH'S RESTAURANT

jf i 8 South Clark Street
In the jargon of the man in the street, this counter
lunch room is a "beanery." The only foods served are
vegetable or navy bean soup, Boston baked beans (with
or without pork), coffee and pies. An epicure would
probably turn up his nose at a place like this, but just
the same it is always crowded and sometimes you have
to wait in line. And the people who come here to eat
are not truck drivers or lowly laborers, either, for we
have seen many prominent lawyers and city oflScials and
judges and newspapermen eating in Riech's beaneries.
Whenever we want good vegetable soup and Boston
baked beans we always go to Riech's.

205

AMONG THE LITERATI

There are as many literary gangs in Chicago as there
are underworld gangs. Saturday is the big day in the
week for these literary gangsters; they foregather at
"round tables" in numerous restaurants, clubs, hotel
dining rooms, tea shops, alley studios, and basement
coffee shops and talk about everything but literature.

The Schlogl gang, which we told you about on page
26 is the most famous of them all. Here, most of the
significant Chicago authors eat or have eaten, and here
it is that practically all visiting literary notables from
the world at large are invited to lunch.

There are numerous writing groups, however, which
do not meet in public restaurants, but organize into
clubs and provide their own quarters. Among these are
the Tavern, with such well-known literary members as
Charles Collins, Ashton Stevens, Wallace Rice, Henry
Kitchell Webster, and Hobart C. Chatfield-Taylor; the
Cliff Dwellers, with the benevolent figure of Hamlin
Garland hovering over it; the Midland authors, occupy-
ing a private dining room provided by Ernest Byfield
and Harlan Ware, officials of the Hotel Sherman and
writers themselves; and the Press Club, where the vete-
ran novelist, Opie Read, and his cronie, Al Dunlap, an

207

editor, as well as a host of other typewriter pounders,
hold forth.

Newspapermen of today may be the authors of to-
morrow. So we have included in the following list of
literary eating places a few of the restaurants where the
boys from Newspaper Row do their eating and talking.

THE DUTCHROOM

Hotel Bismarck, Randolph and Wells Streets
One of the liveliest literary gangs in town meets here
each Saturday at noon. Composed of writers, poets,
newspapermen, advertising men, professors, lawyers,
bibliophiles, and conversationalists. No women allowed.
The gang occupies a "round table" in the farthest
corner of the room; everything is informal and sponta-
neous; the wits of the table cross verbal swords; the
laughter is explosive; and everybody has a good time.

No better room could be found for conviviality than
the Dutchroom of the Bismarck Hotel, located at the
west end of the Rialto. It is a low, beamed dining room
with a fireplace, having the atmosphere of an old Ger-
man tavern and the foods served here are the same as
those served in the main dining room of the Bismarck.

Here, then, come the literati — Kurt M. Stein, the
popular German- American dialect poet; Richard "Riq"
Atwater, columnist of The Cbicagoan; Dr. Walter Blair,
of the English department at the University of Chicago;
Fred Lowenthal, the attorney, bibliophile, and wit; Dr.
David Boder, the Lewis Institute psychologist; Francis
Coughlin, the magazine writer and epicure; Vincent
Starrett, the essayist and novelist; Joe Ator, of the
Chicago American; Walter Auburn, who writes under

208

the name of **Gimmick" in various columns; Finney
Briggs, the continuity writer; FrankUn Meine, the book
auctioneer and authority on American humor; Phillip
Morris, the conversationalist; V. L. Sherman, of the
Lewis Institute; and Douglas MacMurtrie, who made
The Golden Book.

In other words, the Dutchroom is a sort of Algonquin
of Chicago. Aside from this, however, you will like
the food and atmosphere here and the prices are standard.

MAURICE'S 175 West Madison Street

Ranks with the best restaurants in town for good food.
The pastries and coffee are on a par with those of Hen-
rici's. Because of its nearness to the Market Street
"Newspaper Row", Maurice's has always been a news-
paper restaurant and all of "the boys" know C. H.
Penikoff , the genial proprietor. Maurice's stands on the
site of the famed Vogelsang's restaurant, where George
Ade, Finley Peter Dunne, Eugene Field, Ring Lardner,
John T. McCutcheon, Opie Read, and other news
writers of a generation ago dined. Here, at the present
time, you'll find the town's columnists — John Keys,
Warren Brown, Ralph Cannon, and Carol Willis Hyatt;
the sports writers, Paul Hirtenstein, Anne Armstrong,
S. S. "Salty" Bell, Albon Holden, John C. Hoffman, and
James Crusinberry; Bertha Fenberg, feature writer for
the News; Harry Beardsley, author of the forthcoming
biography of Joe Smith, "Celestial Wives"; Tom Bashaw,
Dan Fogle, Clem Lane, reporters all; Hume T. Whitacre,
who edits the elaborate rotogravure section of the News;
Jim Braden, the automobile editor; Don Russell, the

209

book critic; Eugene Stinson, the music critic; and Wil-
liam S. Hedges and Royal S. Munger, radio and financial
editors respectively. And there are lots and lots of
others from "Newspaper Row*'. Maurice's is open all
night and Sundays and serves a 65 cent table d'hote
luncheon and a $1.00 dinner. The establishment has
recently been enlarged so that now there is plenty of
room.

NEW TIVOLI 183 West Madison Street

In some respects, one of the most interesting restaurants
in Chicago. William Piccolo, the courteous and debonair
proprietor, will sing operatic numbers at your table;
the waiters speak two or three languages; the cuisine is
Italian and French; intimate booths are arranged around
the walls; the food is excellent and reasonable; and news-
paper celebrities and writers are always plentiful among
the gay and cosmopolitan diners and lunchers.

Piccolo's is a favorite eating place of lone Quimby,
of the Chicago Evening Post, author of "Murder for
Love"; Paul Gilbert, the veteran reporter and man-
about-town; John Ashenhurst, of the American;
Howard Mayer, also of the American; Loren Carroll,
author of "Wild Onion"; Seymour Berkson, of the
Examiner; Vaughan Schoemaker, the cartoonist; A. L.
Mahoney, the pohce reporter; Al Rose and Julius Rosen-
thal, both of the Times; and a host of other newspaper
people. State Senator Harry Starr, Judge Francis
Borelli, and Tito Schipa, the opera singer, also dine here
frequently.

The New Tivoli is situated "one flight up" and a few

210

doors west of Maurice's. There are 50 and 65 cent
luncheons and $1.00 and $1.25 dinners. The New
Tivoli is also popular among after-theatre crowds.

CAFE ROYALE 3 854 West Roosevelt Road

Here is Bohemia in the true sense of the word. The
Cafe Royale is an intellectual and artistic rendezvous
of the west side Jewish quarter. Full of poets, musicians,
actors, artists, radicals, intellectuals, and all night talkers.
Founded and operated by Israel Blume, a poet, and
Morris Mason, an actor, as a Chicago counterpart of the
famed Cafe Royal on the East Side of New York. Sat-
urday nights, beginning at 10, the Jewish cabaret, a sort
of neighborhood version of the Russian Chauve Souris,
is staged in the concert hall at the rear of the place.
Harry Rosen and his orchestra are in Russian costumes;
Mme. Maria Masheir sings gypsy ballads; Gregory Vene-
tzsky and Joe and Edith Levinson entertain; playlets
are performed; there is dancing after the show; and
Jewish, Russian, and Roumanian dishes tempt your
palate. The walls are decorated with rustic murals by
the artist, De Vries. All is gay, garrulous. Continental,
colorful and worth much more than the $1.00 you pay
for it.

Always, the main dining room out front, unique with
its modernist panels depicting the various arts, is
crowded with lively bushy-haired men wearing horn-
rimmed spe'ctacles and carrying books under their arms;
black -eyed actresses from the nearby New Yiddish
Lawndale Theatre; visiting Jewish celebrities from New
York; and gourmets who have a weakness for substantial
Jewish dishes fragrant with garlic. The popular entrees

211

here are rib steak, broiled in the Roumanian style, and
gratchitze, or sweetbreads. The foods in general are
wholesome and savory and not so expensive.

Here, then, dine most of the local Jewish celebrities
in the arts and allied interests — Emil Armin, the painter;
S. P. Rudens, the essayist; L. M. Stein, the publisher and
patron of the arts; Todros Geller, the wood-block artist;
Joseph Kriloff, the singer; Dr. M. S. Malamed and J.
Siegel, the well-known newspaper editors; J. Z. Jacob-
son, author of ''Thirty-Five Saints and Emil Armin";
I. Iver Rose, the painter and potato pancake maker; and
a great many others of lesser note. Meyer Zolotareff,
the newspaperman, edits his Yiddish literary monthly,
Chicago, from a table in the corner. Here also have
come such famous figures in the Jewish world as Abra-
ham Raisen, the poet; Prof. Enrico Glickenstien, the
Italian- Jewish sculptor; Molly Picon, the actress; Maurice
Schwartz, theatrical director; Boris Thomashefsky, the
actor; Alexander Kipnis, the opera singer and Morris
Topchevsky, the painter. Politicians also come here
— Alderman Jacob Arvey, Ward Committeeman Moe
Rosenberg, and their followers. We could go on describ-
ing this interesting place but the above information ought
to be enough to arouse your curiosity. Don't miss it.
Saturday nights are the best.

RUTZ'S COFFEE SHOP 28 South Wells Street

Another newspaper hangout. Located at the end of a
corridor in an old building. Good German cooking and
the roast beef is hard to beat. You may sit at a table
and be served by Mary Michalska, the best waitress on

212

Wells Street, or you may stand at the long coffee bar
and converse with Emil Rutz, the proprietor. Emil
used to be manager of Vogelsang's restaurant in the old
days and he also conducted the Mission Bar in West
Madison Street. Quite a crowd from the newspaper
offices meets here for luncheon daily — Oscar "Yank"
Taylor, the radio announcer and ex-newspaperman;
Dorothy Fay, the writer; Justin Forrest, of the Amer-
ican; Meyer Levin, author of several novels; Logan
**Steve" Trumbull, the playwright and soldier of for-
tune; Hal Totten, the popular baseball announcer over
Station WMAQ; Frank Malloy, of the Times; Irma Selz,
the caricature artist; Joe Duggan, of the Post; George
Kercher, the radio editor; Paul Gilbert, part author of
"Chicago and its Makers*'; Larry Selz, the publicity
agent; Elizabeth Hobart, of the Post; Fred Seaburg and
Ray O'Neil, two globe-trotters and Victor Knox, the
columnist.

GARDEN OF ITALY 10 South Clark Street

This upstairs Italian eating place, located on "Toothpick
Row", is patronized quite frequently by a few of the
local literary notables — Alfred MacArthur, the book
collector and wit (brother of Charles MacArthur, the
playwright) ; Lew Sarett, the poet; Henry Justin Smith,
the novelist; Hume T. Whitacre, of the Daily News;
Lloyd Lewis, the dramatic critic; Colonel Jacques Lisso-
voy, formerly of the Russian Army; and Theodore Seel-
man, the writer and explorer. The Italian food is com-
mendable here and the atmosphere is quiet and con-
ducive to conversation.

213

ANNA LYON TEA SHOP 1449 East 57th Street
Always an eating place for students at the nearby Uni-
versity of Chicago, the Anna Lyon Tea Shop has in
recent months been the rendezvous of a south side Hter-
ary crowd centering around John T. Frederick, editor of
The Midland magazine and author of several novels, and
Mrs. Frederick. They foregather at a "round table" in
the rear of the establishment and, over many cups of
coflFee, discuss the present state of literature and other
allied topics — all of which 'is quite in the Parisian tradi-
tion of cafe life. And not only writers, but artists and
others interested in the seven arts are at the table. Of
course, they do not all come together at any one time
but there is always a crowd present and the discussions
invariably are animated.

The poets seem to predominate — Mark Turbyfill
author of "The Living Frieze"; George Dillon, who
wrote "Boy in the Wind"; Jun Fujita, the Japanese poet
who penned "Tanka"; and Gladys Campbell and Elder
Olson, who contribute to Harriet Monroe's Poetry maga-
zine. Other writers and intellectuals include J. Z.
Jacobson, R. L. Sergei, Marion Neville, James T. Farrell,
John Sullivan, Frank Malloy, H. D. Roberts, Ruth
Jameson, Llewellyn Jones, Mary Hunter and Susan Wil-
bur. Among the artists are Charles Biesel, George Josi-
movich, Frances Strain, Fred Biesel, Emil Armin, and
Vladimir Janowicz. A decorative feature of the res-
taurant is the oil paintings which adorn the walls, done
by CHflford Lyon, son of the proprietoress. Dinners at
the Anna Lyon Tea Shop are 50, 65 and 75 cents and the
food is fresh and wholesome.

214

THE CORONA CAFt 531 Rush Street

The Corona, located a block west of Tribune Tower, is
mostly an eating place of the men who work on the
Chicago Tribune. There is both counter and table serv-
ice and the sandwiches are appetizing and quickly pre-
pared for men who have to make "deadlines". James
O'Donnell Bennett, feature writer, and author of "Much
Loved Books", and such other feature writers of the
Tribune as Phil Kinsley, James Doherty, John Boettiger,
Arthur M. Evans, Oscar Hewitt, Edward Burns, Harvey
T. Woodrufif, and Bob Becker, are seen almost daily in
the Corona.

HEINLY'S GRILL W) North Clark Street

The County Building and City Hall reporters usually
breakfast in this sandwich shop, across the street from
their "beat" headquarters. "Pop" Heinly's waffles and
griddle cakes appear to make a big hit with the "boys";
and so do his toasted sandwiches and pastries. Such
well-known newspapermen as Willis O'Rourke, of the
American; Ray Quisno, of the Examiner; and Willard
Edwards, of the Tribune y come here; and the City News
Bureau boys make this their hangout.

QUINN'S GRILL 327 West Madison Street

A new sandwich shop within a stone's throw of the
Market Street Newspaper Row. Three-decker toasted
sandwiches, named after the various newspapers, are
featured; the place is crowded at noon with men from
the Evening American, the Examiner, and the Tifnes;
sports followers also come here from Kid Howard's Gym-
nasium upstairs; and the food is good and plentiful.

215

BARON'S 71 8 West Roosevelt Road

Another gathering place of writers and artists in the
west side Jewish quarter. Baron's has been catering to
leading Jewish people for over ten years and they have
a wide reputation for exceptionally appetizing food.
Harry Rosen, Meyer Zolotsreff , Dr. M. S. Malamed, and
other local Yiddish writers foregather here, and there
have been such visitors as Al Jolson, Sophie Tucker,
George Jessel, Eddie Cantor, Paul Ash, Judge Samuel
Heller, Cantor Joseph Rosenblatt and Cantor Pierre
Pinchik, as well as actors from numerous Jewish theatres.
The two proprietors of Baron's, Samuel Abel and Louis
H. Steinberg, besides being expert restaurateurs, are also
known for their interest in the various arts. The walls
here are hung with paintings of the well-known artist,
Emil Armin. All the popular Jewish dishes are on the
menu and the prices are reasonable. The feast of the
Passover is celebrated here annually and is attended by
Jewish celebrities from all over the city.

STUDIO TEA SHOP 1369 East 57th Street

Caters to University of Chicago students, but has a
literary tradition because it is the frequent meeting place
of the Poetry Club of the university, many members of
which are promising poets. Conducted by Jane E. Cald-
well, who is keenly interested in the seven arts. No hot
dishes are served here, but the sandwiches and salads
are worth coming a long distance for. The room is
tastefully decorated and the atmosphere is quiet and
homey. Open for luncheon and dinner.

216

BETWEEN TRAINS

Restaurants as elegant as the dining rooms of some of the
Michigan Avenue hotels are found in the numerous rail-
road stations of the downtown district. This is as it
should be, for Chicago is the railroad center of the
nation; all roads lead to it; it is the crossroads of the
continent. Here, then, that phase of the catering field
devoted to the feeding of the travelHng public has been
developed to its highest possibilities.

When you are passing through Chicago and your time
is limited between trains, or when you have just arrived
in town and want a bite to eat before starting for your
hotel, these terminal restaurants stand ready at all hours
of the day and night to serve your culinary wants. The
interesting factor about them is that they serve foods
the equal of those found in the best restaurants in the
Loop. In fact, several of these railroad eating establish-
ments are the rendezvous of well-known persons in
Chicago life, who come to them for certain dishes that
are prepared with a skill that cannot be duplicated any-
where else.

The following railroad station restaurants are the
sort we have in mind. Their prices are the same as in
other eating places in the city, and the service in them
is both alert and courteous.

217

EITEL'S

Northwestern Station, Caital and Madison Streets
You could not want a better place in which to eat be-
tween trains than the series of dining rooms conducted
by Robert and Max Eitel, members of the famous Chi-
cago family of caterers and restaurateurs, in the terminal
of the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad. The main
dining room, a dignified elegant place on the second
floor, even ranks as one of the important restaurants of
the town, for many noted people lunch here from office
buildings at the west end of the downtown district. It
is one of the favorite eating places of Edward Price Bell,
dean of foreign correspondents of the Chicago Daily
News and the late Walter Strong, publisher of the same
paper always ate here (the Daily News is located across
the street from the Northwestern Station) ; Fred Sar-
gent, president of the Northwestern Railroad; Herman
Black, publisher of the American; and Bill Hay, the
popular radio announcer of Station WMAQ. Chris, the
head waiter, knows them all and they all know him. No
better roast beef can be found anywhere in town than
that served here. An expert chef from Munich presides
over the kitchens and it is plain that he knows his busi-
ness. Meals a la carte and table d'hote. Luncheon 75
cents; dinner $1.00 and $1.50. Afternoon tea, while
waiting for your train, is pleasant on the Terrace. EitePs
lunch room, where the same foods are served, is on the
first floor of the station and consists of both counter and
table service. Many North Shore commuters purchase
their bakery goods and pastries at the Eitel Bakery,
which adjoins the main floor lunch room. Robert and

218

Max Eitel are brothers of the Eitels who conduct the
well-known Bismarck Hotel in the Loop.

FRED HARVEY'S

Union Station, Jackson Boulevard and Canal Street
What a contrast is the lofty dignified and luxuriously-
furnished Harvey dining room in the Union Station here
to the little counter lunch rooms of the Fred Harvey
system along the Santa Fe Railroad in the small tank
towns of the West. Everything is done on a grand scale,
from the antique clock with mirror and stand in the
foyer (discovered by Miss Mary E. J. Colter, decorator
of the Fred Harvey restaurants), to the high wainscot-
ing of American walnut and the comfortable Windsor
chairs. You get the illusion of dining in the formal
dining room of some Michigan Avenue hotel or club.
This is probably one of the most elegant railroad ter-
minal dining rooms in the country. And all of the dishes
of a first-class hotel are on the menu here, prepared by
a staff of chefs and bakers the equal of any in Chicago.
Steaks, chops, sea foods, and bakery products are fea-
tured. The prices are standard and the waiters are
courteous and efficient.

In popularity, however, the Harvey lunch room, ad-
joining the main dining room, takes first prize. It is a
big rangy dining hall, with both table and counter
service, and also a mezzanine for afternoon tea. The
lunch room gets a heavy patronage because the service
is quick and because it is open all night. At noon the
counters and tables are crowded with workers from
office buildings in the neighborhood surrounding the
Union Station. Luncheons are 50 and 65 cents and

219

dinners are $1.00 and $1.25. The Coffee Shop, located
at the east end of the lofty concourse, is a small intimate
room, uniquely decorated in mosaic tile work, and is
patronized mostly by suburban passengers for breakfast
and afternoon tea.

MARTIN RESTAURANT

La Salle Street Station, Van Buren and La Salle Streets
Bankers, insurance men, railroad executives, brokers,
manufacturing tailors, as well as the travelling public
and an occasional celebrity, lunch or dine in the Martin
restaurant, on the first floor of the La Salle Street Sta-
tion. This is one of the chain of Martin railway depot
restaurants operated in eastern cities. If names mean
anything to you we may offer those of Charlie Chaplin,
Mary Pickford and the late William Howard Taft, as
among the notables who have eaten here between trains
or otherwise. Fred Frese, the head waiter, has been here
for eighteen years and he is as well known at the south
end of the Loop as **Bathhouse John" Coughlin. The
food is delicious, the service alert, and the atmosphere
quiet, if a bit old-fashioned. Plate luncheon 65 cents;
dinner $1.50.

POLK STREET STATION RESTAURANT

Dearborn and Polk Streets
When we say that this is a Fred Harvey restaurant we
have told you all there is to know about it. You know
immediately that the food is of the best quality, whole-
some, and carefully prepared. Like the station in which
it is located, this restaurant is old-fashioned and has the
decorative knick-knacks of the Nineties around its walls.

220

It is small and quiet and the service is attuned to re-
quirements of the travelling public. When Sherwood
Anderson, the novelist, worked as an advertising man in
Chicago he frequently used to sit in a corner of this
dining room and, a cup of coffee beside him, write short
stories. There is also a Harvey lunch room adjoining
this dining room.

221

UPTOWN AND NORTHWARD

Six miles north of the Loop Hes Uptown, a sort of
miniature Loop. Tall terra cotta oflEce buildings, hotels,
business houses, movie palaces, amusement centers and
restaurants, as well as orange huts, photomatons, chop
suey parlors and $L88 women's hat shops, abound in the
district and give it a sort of gay carnival air. It is quite
definitely a night life pleasure area and serves the entire
north side and, more particularly, the rooming house
and apartment hotel district immediately surrounding it.
The beaches of Lake Michigan are at its feet; street-cars
and elevated trains lead to it; and at night it is the
Great White Way of the north side.

From among the many restaurants of this lively area,
we have selected the following as being most notable
for good foods. Some of them are famous all over the
city for certain specialties, while others offer a general
menu worthy of the attention of any gourmet. We
have also pointed out a few of the outstanding restau-
rants lying north of uptown. They are found along
Sheridan Road, which runs through the exclusive resi-
dential sections of Edgewater and Rogers Park.

222

SALLY'S WAFFLE SHOP 4650 Sheridan Road

The best waffles in town. This shop has been here for
many years, and people come from all over the city to
this famed uptown eating establishment — especially for
late supper or a snack in the wee small hours. Other
dishes are exceptionally good here, too. Ashton Stevens
drops into this place frequently during the spring
months for the delightful asparagus tips served at the
Sally board. The heroine of John Gunther's novel, "The
Red Pavilion", ate her waffles and bacon at Sally's. In
other words, everybody thinks of Sally's when they
vision waffles. Located in the heart of the uptown dis-
trict.

KRISTENSEN 4017 Sheridan Road

Alfred Kristensen is one of the most interesting res-
taurateurs in Chicago. He was born in the United
States, of Danish descent, but served his apprenticeship
in the culinary art in Germany, France and England.
In 1 9 1 0 he received the degree of Bachelor of Arts from
the University of Chicago. Once he was chief steward
for the United States Shipping Board. After holding
various positions with the Astor and Vanderbilt Hotels
in New York City, and the La Salle and Blackstone
Hotels and the Canadian Pacific Railway in Chicago, he
resigned from such work and set up this important up-
town restaurant. As recently as a few months ago he
received an honor diploma from the Societe de Cuisine
de Paris in recognition for laboratory research work in
connection with foods. So, with such a background, Mr.
Kristensen ought to be expected to serve good foods —

223

and he does. He has no specialties on his menu since
every item on it is a specialty. Worth trying.

SKOOGLUND CAFETERIA 1136 Wilson Avenue
Although a cafeteria, Skooglund's is an uptown culinary
landmark. The cuisine is both Swedish and American
and you can get a large assortment of food items — baked
goods, vegetables, salads, meats, and fish. Here you can
also eat the delicious Dundee cake and those savory
little wafer pancakes that the house specializes in. The
Swedish hors d'oeuvres alone would make a meal. A
bakery and delicatessen is conducted in connection with
the cafeteria.

EDGEWATER BEACH HOTEL

')349 Sheridan Road
The Marine Dining Room is the principal dine-and-
dance center of the uptown area. Here, in a large and
attractively decorated room, located in a hotel which
stands right on the shore of Lake Michigan, you may
dance every night except Sunday night. Special nights
are featured during the week — Monday is Celebrity
Night, when theatrical stars are usually present; Friday
is Fraternity Night, with plenty of frat members at the
tables, as well as co-eds; and Saturday is Formal Night,
a time of starched linen and red velvet wraps. Always
there is plenty of fun, the music is lively, and the walks
along the terrace between dances are pleasurable and re-
freshing. The Marine Dining Room serves luncheon,
afternoon tea, dinner, and late supper. Similar service
is rendered in the Grill, another dining room of the
Edgewater Beach.

224

ALICE BAUM'S DINING ROOM

5200 Sheridan Road
A high-toned and well-known eating parlor, located in a
high-toned and well-known part of Chicago. The man-
sions of the wealthy are on all sides and directly across
the street are the grounds and low building of the
Saddle and Cycle Club, one of the most fashionable and
exclusive clubs in Chicago. Alice Baum offers genuine
home cooking, with plentiful portions, and her season-
ings are notable. The room is tastefully decorated and
the atmosphere is restful and dignified. Table d'hote
luncheons are 65 cents, and similar dinners are $1.00
and $1.50.

WAGTAYLE'S WAFFLE SHOP

1205 Loyola Avemie
Where Rogers Park, on the far north side, eats its
waffles during the late hours. And very good waffles,
too. There are lots of other dishes on the menu, all
skillfully prepared and highly appetizing. Wagtayle*s
is open all night and there are always plenty of young
people present, especially on Saturdays after midnight.

MURPHY'S RESTAURANT 6546 Sheridan Road
Where Rogers Park eats its corned beef and cabbage at
all hours of the day and until midnight. Mrs. Murphy
serves the most appetizing corned beef and cabbage
north of the Loop; also she serves other dishes that are
as notable. Her place is located one flight up and re-
ceives a heavy "play" from students at the nearby
Loyola University, a great majority of whom are of
Irish descent.

22S

THE BLACK OAKS 7631 Sheridan Road

Occupies one of those curious and interesting houses
built by the great American architect, Frank Lloyd
Wright. You get the effect of dining in a private home,
what with many rooms all about, candlesticks holding
real burning candles, unusual china, and all sorts of
glassware. All of these objets d'art, of course, are
carefully and artistically arranged, and dinner at the
Black Oaks, from the point of view of food, decorations,
service, and architecture is nothing if not an esthetic
adventure. Milk-fed broilers, mushrooms under glass,
and filet mignon are specialties. Luncheon is $1.50, and
dinner $2.50 and $3.00. You'd better call up first —
Briargate 2646.

226

SHOPPER'S REST

State Street, as everybody from Des Moines to Kalama-
zoo knows, is the main shopping artery of Chicago.
All the big department stores are here, from Marshall
Field's on the north to the Davis Store on the south,
and here the women of the city, as well as from cities
all over the middle west, buy those things which not
infrequently cause their husbands to frown.

Naturally, while on these shopping expeditions, the
ladies grow a bit weary along about 3 or 4 o'clock in
the afternoon. So, to meet this feeling, the State Street
department stores have provided quiet and restful tea
rooms where Mrs. Jones or Miss Smith may sit down
and have a nice cup of tea and a light snack, the while
several musicians play Chopin's Nocturne in B Flat.
Luncheons are also provided in these places, composed
of good wholesome foods, and in one or two of them you
may have breakfast.

The men have not been overlooked, either. These
stores feature men's grills that are the equal of any of
the first-class dining places elsewhere in the city. Here-
with is a list of these department store restaurants, to-

227

gather with information as to their cuisine and other
phases.

MARSHALL FIELD'S

State Street, between Randolph and Washington
Most widely known and elegant of the shopper's tea
rooms on State Street is the Narcissus Fountain Room,
on the seventh floor of the world-famed Marshall Field
& Company department store. In decoration, atmos-
phere, service, and foods, it is on a par with any dining
room of a first-class Michigan Avenue or Gold Coast
hotel. Chamber music is featured here between 3 P.M.
and 5 P.M., and a special menu replete with sandwiches,
salads, beverages, and desserts is offered the tired shop-
per. Half an hour spent in such surroundings, and
with the stimulation of a light and most carefully pre-
pared snack, and you are refreshed and ready again for
another round of shopping. An excellent $L00 table
d'hote luncheon is also offered here and there is a la carte
service at all hours. The special afternoon tea luncheon
is 50 cents.

Six tea and grill rooms occupy the entire seventh
floor of this great Chicago mercantile establishment.
In the Walnut Grill, beautifully decorated in Circassian
walnut, breakfast is offered, both club and a la carte,
from 9 A.M. until 11 A.M. Table d'hote luncheons
are also featured here at $1.25 and $1.50 the plate.
Here, too, you may find the special afternoon tea lunch-
eon, as in the Narcissus Fountain Room. There is no
music in the Walnut Grill.

The Colonial Tea Room and the Mission Grill are for
the convenience of the shopper whose time is limited.

228

A menu is offered which can be quickly and attractively
served. Table d'hote luncheons are served in both rooms
at 75 and 85 cents, and $1.00 the plate. Oldest of the
tea rooms is the Colonial Room, on the Wabash Avenue
side, and this is the only room in which smoking is not
permitted. The atmosphere is conservative and many
feminine members of the pioneer first families of the
city foregather here for luncheon or afternoon tea.
Prices are the same as in the other rooms. The Wedge-
wood Room, decorated in the Adam period and replete
with bric-a-brac of the famous potter's design, is re-
served for private parties or banquets.

The famed potato flour muffin, originated many years
ago in the Marshall Field kitchens, may be obtained in
all of the tea rooms and grills. Nowhere else can you
get a muffin like this; it is an epicurean thrill of the
highest order. Another original feature of the Marshall
Field tea rooms is the child's luncheon — a balanced
menu for children under twelve, served on gaily deco-
rated china in the Walnut, Narcissus and Crystal Rooms.
There are combination plate luncheons (reduced por-
tions) for 50, 65 and 75 cents.

For the Men's Grill, you must go across Washington
Street to the sixth floor of the Marshall Field's Store for
Men. It is a beautiful and impressive room, with a
TiflFany fountain at its center. There are many circu-
lar, leather-upholstered booths, which afford pleasant
nooks for business luncheon-conferences. Luncheon
may be had here from 75 cents to $1.50, or a la carte.
It is usually crowded at noon with prominent business
executives, physicians, and other professional men from
surrounding office buildings.

229

KRANZ'S 124 North State Street

Unique in that it is a lone survivor on State Street of
the World's Fair days of 1893. Interior very flowery,
old-fashioned, ornate and Victorian. A marble lady,
with diaphanous material for protection against dust,
stands at the entrance. No sandwiches, but very good
coffee cakes, layer cakes, confections, and excellent
chocolate, cofFee and tea. Ideal for a light repast, serv-
ice is perfection, Mrs. Kranz is always present, and the
atmosphere is quiet and genteel.

STOP AND SHOP 16 West Washington Street

The Tiffin Restaurant, on the second floor of the most
famous of Chicago's retail food shops, the Stop and
Shop, located a few steps west of State Street, serves
perfectly grand 65 cent table d'hote luncheons. There
are half a dozen Tiffin Specials on the a la carte menu.
The table d'hote dinner is $ 1.00. Open from 1 1 A.M. to
8 P.M. The room is large and attractively done in green
and the tables are always crowded.

HILLMAN'S CAFETERIA

24 West Washington Street
Many shoppers prefer Hillman*s for their luncheon. It
is located on the second floor of Hillman's food shop,
almost as renowned as the Stop and Shop. The victuals
here are plain and wholesome, you help yourself, there
is plenty of room, and the place is open from 1 1 A.M.
to 7:30 P.M.

STEVENS BUILDING RESTAURANTS

17 North State Street
The two large dining rooms on the eighth floor of the

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Chas. A. Stevens mercantile establishment are heavily
patronized by women during luncheon and afternoon
tea. The Persian Room, on the State Street side, is the
more elegant of the two; colorful murals depicting
scenes from the Arabian Nights adorn the walls and
the atmosphere is refined and pleasant. The East Room
is devoted to more popular priced meals. Service is both
table d'hote and a la carte and the cuisine in both rooms
is ideal for women shoppers.

BOSTON STORE DINING ROOM

State and Madison Streets
Blue Plate combinations at 75 cents are featured in this
twelfth floor dining room, attractively decorated in
restful green. There is also a 65 cent luncheon. The serv-
ice is a la carte at all hours and here the ladies come at
mid-afternoon for a cup of coffee and a bit of pastry,
both of which are commendable.

MANDEL'S

Northeast corner , State and Madison Streets
Afternoon tea is served in the Tudor Room between
3 P.M. and 5 P.M. This room, done in the manner of
an old English inn, is quiet and dignified and well suited
for a light repast. Luncheons are served here at 65 and
8 5 cents the plate. The same prices prevail in the larger
Tea Room. The Men's Grill, located on the Wabash
Avenue side and adorned by interesting murals, serves
good substantial dishes for the heartier palates of the male
sex.

231

CARSON'S

Southeast corner y State and Madison Streets
The North and South Tea Rooms, on the eighth floor,
are large and there are both table d'hote and a la carte
luncheons. Music is furnished by the Carson Pirie Scott
& Company Trio. The foods are admirable and the
seasonable dishes especially are to be recommended.
Afternoon tea is served in the South Tea Room, where
the atmosphere is quiet and restful. The Men's Grill,
in the new men's store at Monroe Street and Wabash
Avenue, is modelled on Haddon Hall, a sixteenth-cen-
tury Tudor structure in England. Here, you may eat
a special 75 cent and $1.00 table d'hote luncheon. Serv-
ice is also a la carte.

THE FAIR Adams and State Streets

Music is featured in the Spanish Room during luncheon
and afternoon tea. Done in the manner of a Spanish
patio, this room is small and intimate and provides an
ideal opportunity for rest and a light snack. Luncheons
are served here for 50 and 65 cents the plate. Adjoining
the Spanish Room is the Cafeteria.

DAVIS STORE State and Van Buren Streets

Something interesting here are the cozy booths, large
enough for six or eight people, provided for the con-
venience of shoppers from the suburbs surrounding Chi-
cago. Each booth bears the name of a suburb. For
example, if you are from Evanston you go to the Evans-
ton booth and there most likely run into other Evans-
tonians. Table d'hote luncheons at 50 and 65 cents are
on the menu, and service is also a la carte.

232

SUBURBIA

Appetizing foods, skillfully prepared and served in quiet
and elegant surroundings, are found in Suburbia.
Northward, lying just next door to Chicago, is Evans-
ton, seat of the far-famed Northwestern University
and said to be the birthplace of prohibition. Evanston's
foremost citizen is General Charles Gates Dawes. It is a
city of wealthy, blue-blooded, American citizens —
people who have discriminating tastes in matters per-
taining to the table. Not the least of its interesting
landmarks is the old mansion in which the first cafeteria
was started back in 1905 and which is still in operation.
Today, Evanston has many interesting little tea rooms
and other eating places worthy of the attention of any
seeker after good foods.

North of Evanston lies the North Shore, like a string
beaded with numerous millionaire villages and private
estates. And here, between Kenilworth and Wilmette,
you will find No Man's Land, having no local self-
government but picturesque with Spanish style theatres,
clubs, houses and barbecue stands. Here is where the
North Shore eats its barbecue and chicken sandwiches.
Proceeding northward along Sheridan Road, you come to
other eating places until you wind up at the Deerpath
Inn, done in the English style and the rendezvous of

233

many Chicago millionaires who have their summer homes
in Lake Forest. Following, then, are the outstanding
eating places of Suburbia.

WOMAN'S EXCHANGE CAFETERIA

1 627 Chicago Ave,, Evanston, III,
Established in 1905 for the benefit of students at North-
western University, the Woman's Exchange was the first
cafeteria in existence. One of its early patrons was
Frances Willard, dean of women at Northwestern and
founder of the W. C. T. U. The cafeteria continues
to occupy the same house in which it was founded —
a large frame mansion, set back on a wide lawn and
having the appearance of a New England homestead.
Mr. Robert Davidson, the present owner, possesses a sec-
tion of the original cafeteria tray rail which figured
prominently in the news a few years ago as an exhibit
in a law suit involving patent rights on the rail. It was
Mr. Davidson's mother who took over the cafeteria two
years after it was established. Needless to say, the food
served here is highly appetizing and carefully prepared,
and the roast beef and home made pies are the best
to be found on the North Shore. The Woman's Ex-
change never advertises as it has a steady clientele among
Evanston and North Shore residents. Open for luncheon
and dinner and on Sunday from 12 noon to 8 P.M.

NORTH SHORE HOTEL COFFEE SHOP

1611 Chicago Ave,, Evanston, III.
First-class food at reasonable prices for college boys and
co-eds from Northwestern and others. Located a few
doors south of the Woman's Exchange, on the first floor

234

of the North Shore Hotel. It is a quiet, dignified cafe-
teria, decorated in the style of an old English inn, with
beamed ceiling and high-backed Windsor chairs. The
formal dining room of the North Shore is done in the
Colonial style.

VERA MEGOWEN'S TEA ROOM

501 Davis Street, Evanston, III,
Wholesome, plain, American cooking from the hands of
skillful chefs. This place is known as the Early Ameri-
can Room and is charmingly finished in Colonial style,
which includes potteries, glassware, and brass and copper
articles, all of which are for sale. Vera Megowen is a
well-known Evanston cateress. Her pastries are par-
ticularly notable. She operates another tea shop, known
as the French Provincial Room, at 512 Main Street.
Luncheons, afternoon teas, and dinners are served in
both places.

COOLEY'S CUPBOARD

1511 Chicago Ave., Evanston, III.
This is one of the three tea rooms conducted in Evanston
by Raymond Cooley. Known as the Picardy Room, it
is small and intimate and reminiscent of a French peas-
ant inn. The cuisine is on a par with the best in Evans-
ton and some of the wealthiest women of the suburb
foregather here. Cooley 's original Cupboard is at 1632
Orrington Avenue; his third establishment, the Rendez-
vous Moderne, is at 505 Main Street.

HEWS 616 Church Street, Evanston, III

Hew's, decorated in the modernist manner and featur-

235

ing tables and booths, gets a heavy patronage at the
noon hour from the business men of Evanston. Their
Special Business Men's Luncheon contains substantial
edibles, and plentiful portions. Hew's derives its name
from the initials of H. E. Weeghman, proprietor. Open
for luncheon and dinner.

FRENCH TABLE D'HOTE

1710 Orrington Ave., Evanston , III,
A unique tea room on the first floor of the Orrington
Hotel, decorated in the modernist style by Benjamin
Marshall, one of the outstanding architects of Chicago.
You help yourself at an hors d'oeuvres table; the wait-
resses wheel out an electric cart and serve from chafing
dishes; the entrfe include meats, fish, roasts, and
chicken; the pastries are delicious; and you may make
your choice as to which of the several delightful little
modernist rooms you intend eating in. Worth visiting
for the novel color effects. There is a $L00 table d'hote
dinner. Open for luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner.

THE HOMESTEAD

1625 Hinman Avenue, Evanston, III,
The Tea Room of the Homestead Hotel, located off the
lobby on the first floor, is authentically Colonial in at-
mosphere and gives you the feeling of some old tavern
along the New England roads. The ceiling is made of
rough-hewn beams, the south wall is panelled in pine,
genuine early American color prints decorate the walls,
and an old blunderbuss and warming pan are features
of the brick fireplace, where a real log fire burns. Most
interesting of all, however, is the scenic wallpaper on

236

the north wall, depicting scenes in early American his-
tory. Made from century-old French wood blocks, this
paper causes amusement because of its naive conceptions
of American scenery and life. For example, Spanish
moss hangs from the trees in the vicinity of Boston.
Miss Isetta Anderson is hostess here. Philadelphia pep-
per pot, an appetizing soup, is a popular item on the
menu. The other dishes show the hand of a skillful chef.

THE PURPLE PUP 524 Davis Street, Evans ton III,
Nothing like it anywhere in Evanston — or Chicago, for
that matter. Dedicated to food, fun, music, and danc-
ing, the Purple Pup is a tiny jazz parlor patronized
solely by students from Northwestern University,
Evanston High School, and other North Shore schools,
and is as collegiate as a raccoon coat. The most amaz-
ing thing about it all is that these boys and girls can
be so gay, bohemian, and garrulous on nothing more
than the Purple Pup's special Black Bottom sundae, or
the special sandwiches named after all the diflferent kinds
of dogs. The boys do not bother to take oflF their hats,
the girls sit on table tops, the dance floor is no bigger
than a minute and is packed all the time, the orchestra
blares away in fox trot time, couples smoke in booths,
and many go back to the kitchen and make up their
own sandwiches. The Purple Pup is operated by two
former college boys. Jack B. Roxton and Ernest Smed-
berg. Smedberg is a nephew of Frank Smedberg, who
managed the famed King's restaurant in Chicago in the
old days. Dancing is featured on "Wednesday and Friday
afternoons, and Friday and Saturday evenings. This
is the only dine-and-dance place in Evanston.

237

VILLA DEMETRE

1623 Sheridan Road, No Man*s Land, III,
Where all the North Shore eats its barbecue and chicken
sandwiches. Also an eating place for motorists along
Sheridan Road. Located in No Man's Land, that Span-
ish village pleasure spot between Kenilworth and Wil-
mette. Along with the other buildings here, Villa De-
metre is Spanish in style and its proprietor is William
Demetre, who operates another barbecue stand at June-
way Terrace and Sheridan Road. In both places, you
use the running water finger bowl to clean your fingers.

MORAINE HOTEL DINING ROOM

Highland Park, III.
An elegant and ritzy eating hall for the fashionables of
the North Shore, serving all the standard dishes in a
style that meets the approval of well-travelled epicures.
During the summer opera season at Ravinia, which is
nearby, this dining room is crowded with Italian, French,
and German contraltos and baritones, as well as the
Social Registerites of the vicinity. Expensive, and open
for luncheon, and dinner. Located just off Sheridan
Road.

DEERPATH INN

255 East Illinois Road, Lake Forest, III.
A quaint and refined old English inn, always crowded
with the debs, college boys, and aristocratic ladies and
gentlemen of the exclusive Lake Forest millionaire col-
ony. The food, of course, is beyond criticism. Open

238

for luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner. Truly, a de-
lightful adventure in epicureanism.

WINDSOR TEA ROOM

717 South Boulevard y Oak Park, III.
Swinging around to Oak Park, that swanky suburb di-
rectly west of Chicago, we come to the Windsor, which
has a good sized clientele among the diners-out of the
village, said to be the largest village in the world. This
place is open for luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner,
and the standard American dishes are found on the
menu.

THE CHANTICLEER DINING ROOM

13 8 South Oak Park Ave,, Oak Park, III,
Another smart eating establishment of the village, and
well patronized, too. The pastries are notable, the
waitresses alert, and the prices reasonable. There is an-
other Chanticleer at 124 Wisconsin Avenue.

THE THREE SISTERS TEA ROOM

180 North Marion Avenue, Oak Park, III,
Over thirty years ago three sisters started a small eating
establishment at Madison Street and Crawford Avenue,
on the far west side of Chicago. Today, they still operate
it and its fame is based solely on the excellent quality
of the foods served. Now they have opened this tea
room in Oak Park and are meeting with as much suc-
cess as in the Chicago place. It is in an old residence
and the scheme of decoration is early American.
Chicken, roasts, and sea foods are the popular items on

239

the menu. Sunday dinner is served from 12 noon to
4 P.M. Prices standard.

DEL-RIO RESTAURANT

5615 West Roosevelt Road, Cicero, III,
One evening in April, 1926, Assistant State's Attorney
William McSwiggin and two west side O'Donnell
gangsters were shot and killed by Capone machine gun-
ners in front of this Cicero establishment. Called the
Pony Inn at that time, it was a speakeasy and had been
a meeting place of the O'Donnell gang. Events have
since proven that, although in the company of gangsters,
McSwiggin was killed accidentally. Today, with its
name changed, this place is a quiet barbecue restaurant,
serving also first-rate chicken and steaks. It is patron-
ized a good deal by motorists.

HAWTHORNE RESTAURANT

4823 West 22nd Street, Cicero, III
Some months after the McSwiggin murder, Capone was
said to have been eating in this restaurant, located on
the ground floor of the Hawthorne Hotel (now called
the Western), when a motorcade of north side gang-
sters sprayed the front of the restaurant and the hotel
with hundreds of machine gun slugs. The Big Fellow
escaped injury, but one of his henchmen and a woman
by-stander were wounded. Capone, according to legend,
paid the hospital bills for the recovery of the woman.
The Hawthorne Hotel has always been known as the
Cicero headquarters of the gang chief. Today, the
Hawthorne Restaurant is a regular counter and table
lunch room, serving the standard American dishes at all

240

hours of the day and night. It is patronized by the
workers in the business district around it and those from
the monster plant of the Western Electric Company
nearby. , .

241

TEMPLES OF THE SUN-DODGERS

A Sun-Dodger is a person who worships at the altar of
Jazz. Sun-Dodgers make up a large sect in Chicago,
which derives most of its membership from individuals
known as nighthawks, Loophounds, bons vivants, men-
about-town, butter and q^^ men, and "suckers." The
Sun-Dodger comes to life only when other people go to
bed. Members of this strange sect do not know the
color of sunshine, but are plenty familiar with the vari-
ous colors of moonshine. In order to carry out their
ritual, Sun-Dodgers visit the numerous gaudy and color-
ful Temples provided for them by wily High Priests in
all sections of the city.

Handmaidens function in these Temples, going
through dance steps which express in no uncertain terms
the spirit of Jazz. Strange liquids and potions are
sipped by the devotees as they watch the handmaidens
do their stuff in an atmosphere filled with the incense
of cigarettes and cigars; or perhaps the Sun-Dodgers eat
peculiar substances which, according to reports reaching
the outside world, are said to be foods. The whole
ritual is presided over by a person known as a Master of
Ceremonies. Sometimes the Master is a woman, who ad-

242

dresses the devotees by their strictly technical title,
**suckers."

But the motivating force of the entire life of the
Temple is a group of young demons who, sitting on a
raised altar, blow into all sorts of odd silvered and golden
instruments and beat toms-toms and strike various wood
and metal objects, the effect of which causes the Sun-
Dodger to fall into a fine frenzy (or over a table).
This is continued all night long until the first pink peek
of dawn over the minarets of the Temple. The Sun-
Dodger is now ready to go home. But before doing so
he is required to pay tribute to the wily High Priest of
the Temple for the privilege of partaking in the night's
ritual — which tribute takes the form of numerous slips
of green paper. Quite numerous, in fact. But the de-
votee does not complain. He goes home and crawls
into bed — just when others are getting up.

Do you wish to join this happy and care-free sect?
There is plenty of room for new members. In the fol-
lowing pages we have listed a few of the more worth-
while Temples where the Sun-Dodgers of the city and
others worship the great god. Jazz. The only require-
ment for admission is plenty of those slips of green
paper.

MACK'S CLUB 1 2 East Pearson Street

Bright spot of the near north side, a stone's throw from
Michigan Avenue and the Gold Coast. Where every
night is New Year's Eve. The famous Harry McKelvey
is host and Harry Glyn, who knows how to entertain,
is master of ceremonies. For feminine diversion there
are Trudy Davidson and a collection of pretty faces and

243

nimble dance feet. Keith Beecher and his Melody
Makers provide the music — and what music. Intimate
atmosphere. You'll have plenty of fun. Cover charge,
$1.00. Whitehall 6667.

VANITY FAIR Z03 Grace Street

Other night clubs come and go but the Vanity Fair re-
mains forever. Or so it seems. Occupying the site of
the once famous Marigold Gardens. Has a large fol-
lowing on the north side of Chicago, particularly in
the uptown district. Four floor shows nightly and no
cover charge. The food is good and high-class people
come here. Leo Wolf and his orchestra contribute much
toward the popularity of this place. Otto E. Singer,
likable and hearty, runs the Vanity Fair. Buckingham
3254.

CLUB ALABAM 747 Rush Street

More dusk to dawn diversion on the near north side.
Evelyn Nesbit Thaw was a big drawing card when she
was here recently. Dan Blanco is host, Slater Brockman
does the mastering, and Willie Newberger's orchestra
furnishes the music — which, by the by, is nothing if not
*'hot." Floor shows and vaudeville entertainers and
Chinese and Southern dishes — what a combination.
Cover charge, $L00. Delaware 0808.

CLUB AMBASSADEUR 226 East Ontario Street

A real sun- dodgers Mecca, east of Michigan Avenue and
but five minutes from the Loop. The boys and girls
call it a "hot spot." It occupies one of those old man-
sions and is very cozy and intimate. Jimmie Noone

244

and his orchestra provide the music for the floor shows —
and for you. And there is an after-theatre menu in
case you get hungry. No cover charge. Delaware 0930.

BLACKHA^VnC: 139 North Wabash Avenue

Here in the Loop for quite a few years, as night clubs
go — and how they go! An elegant dining room and
lots of gay and interesting people. Comes to life when
the Rialto theatres die for the night. The Coon-Sanders
band is here to help you forget your worries and
tickle your toes. Also, other entertainment. No cover
charge. Dearborn 6262.

FROLICS 1 8 East 22nd Street

When other places have folded up for the night, the
Frolics is just beginning. Charles Kaley and his orches-
tra. Dine and dance until dawn. Earl Rickard is master
of ceremonies. Four shows nightly and Theatrical Night,
featuring visiting stage celebs, on Wednesdays. Sixteen
girls in the chorus and all lively and good to look upon.
The place was recently remodeled. Always a lot of
Chicago notables at the tables. Mike Fritzel and Ralph
Gallet are the well-known managers. Victory 7011.

COLOSIMO'S 2126 South Wabash Avenue

Where Al Capone got his start. That was after "Big
Jim" Colosimo went mysteriously and hastily to his
eternal reward way back in 1920. His violent demise
has never been solved. But all tKat is in the past. To-
day, Colosimo*s is just another night life center. The
food and entertainment are on a par with those of other
night clubs. There is a seven-course table d'hote dinner

245

for $1.50, featuring a whole baby lobster. A la carte
service at all hours. Jimmy Meo and his orchestra
provide the music for dancing and the four nightly
revues. Something of a novelty here are the * 'Horse
Races," where you may act as jockey and perhaps win
a prize. No, you won't get shot here, and the eminent
Mr. Capone is never seen in the place — now that he's
been graduated. Calumet 1127.

CASA GRANADA 6800 Cottage Grove Avenue

Most popular of south side night clubs. The Granada
made Guy Lombardo and Guy Lombardo made the
Granada. Big Paul Whiteman and his big orchestra
now provide the music . . . and hey! hey! Al Quodbach,
impresario, has provided a lavish musical show with
eighteen chorines any one of whom would cause you
to leave home if you're the home-leaving type. There
is no cover charge. Billy Leather is head waiter. Dor-
chester 0074.

OTHER PLACES IN WHICH YOU

CAN DINE, DANCE, AND

BE ENTERTAINED

AFTER THE

THEATRE

NEW COLLEGE INN, basement of Hotel Sherman,
Clark and Randolph Streets. Described in chapter
"Around the Town" as a restaurant. One of the best

246

after-theatre dine-and-dance places in Chicago. Ben
Bernie is orchestra leader and master of ceremonies and
there is none better in either capacity anywhere in town.
Theatrical Night on Thursdays. Here's where the
idea of Theatrical Night originated . . . BAL TABARIN,
another Hotel Sherman institution. Open only on Sat-
urday nights after the theatre. Very swanky, a first-
class entertainment program, good food, and lots of
well-known people among the guests . . . LINCOLN
TAVERN TOWN CLUB, 4806 Broadway. Where the
uptown sun-dodgers go. Texas Guinan used to have
this place. Diverting revues, plenty of fun, and *'hot"
music. Jack Huff, who conducts the Lincoln Tavern
outside the city limits during the summertime, is host.
. . . CASA DE ALEX, 58 East Delaware Place. De-
scribed in chapter "Dining in Bohemia.** This place
also functions as a dine-and-dance center during the wee
small hours. Here is the atmosphere of old Spain — as
well as the music . . . TEBJRA.CE GARDEN, basement
of Morrison Hotel, Clark and Madison Streets. De-
scribed in chapter "Rialto Tables.** . . . VENETIAN
ROOM, Hotel Southmoor, 67th Street and Stony Island
Avenue. Night life near Jackson Park. Order what
you please and dance as long as you like . . . MARINE
DINING ROOM, Edgewater Beach Hotel, 5349 Sheri-
dan Road. Where the north side dines and dances until
2 A.M. or thereabouts . . . GOLDEN PUMPKIN INN,
3829 West Madison Street. As big as a convention hall
but much more entertaining. Night life rendezvous of
the far west side. Jack Chapman and his orchestra and
floor shows . . . CANTON TEA GARDEN, 404 South
Wabash Avenue. "Airplane quality of food at sub-

247

marine prices." Chinese and American cuisine. Dan
Russo and his orchestra, the favorites of Station KYW,
furnish music for dancing and the floor shows. Celeb-
rity Night every Wednesday, when theatrical stars at-
tend . . . FLEUR DE NOR, on Broadway, at Devon
Avenue. The famous old Northern Lights Cafe, on the
far north side, redecorated and renamed. The usual
music, floor shows, and foods . . . TURKISH VILLAGE
CAFE, 606 North Clark Street. A snappy orchestra;
entertainers sing at your table; food if you get hungry;
Turkish decorations; and George Mason to see that you
are enjoying yourself . . . SHOW BOAT, 205 North
Clark Street. Latest of the Loop night clubs, occupying
the basement where the late Ed Hester had his famed
fish camp. Louis Armstrong, *'king of the trumpet,"
and his orchestra, are a thrill to people who take their
music hot . . . GRAND TERRACE CAFE, 395 5 South
Parkway. A lively black-and-tan in the heart of the
south side Blackbelt. Ed Fox is impresario. All-colored
floor shows and the best in town. Earl Hines' band.
Wealthy people come here . . . CLUB CASANOVA,
1023 North State Street. Latest of the Tower Town
night clubs. Five minutes from the Loop. Colored
chorines, plenty of music and gayety and food . . .
MUSIC BOX, 63 53 Cottage Grove Avenue. Dom
Acri's music boys play here nightly and entertain diners
and dancers of the south side . . . VIA LAGO, 837
Wilson Avenue. Earl Hoffman's music, plus several
revues, plus a glass dance floor, plus colorful surround-
ings, plus prices within the means of high school kids . . .
THE LIMEHOUSE, 1563 Howard Avenue. Way up
north on the boundary line of the city. Chinese-

248

American dishes. Another place for high school girls
and boys and students from Northwestern University
. . . CLUB BAGDAD, 6400 Cottage Grove Avenue.
Another south side rendezvous, located in the Pershing
Hotel. Billie Adair's band and plenty of fun . . . C AND
O BARBECUE RESTAURANT, 509 North Clark
Street. Another Clark Street night club, five minutes
from the Loop ... EL HAREM, 165 North Michigan
Avenue. Described in chapter *'Along the Avenue."
Music, floor shows, and dancing in a perfumed Turkish
atmosphere . . . THE VOGUE CAFE, 4640 Cottage
Grove Avenue. Plenty of entertainment, good music, and
dancing. Located on the south side. The Liquorsham
Committee reported that the Vogue was a headquarters
of certain members of the Capone gang. Believe it or
not.

249

THE GREAT BLACK WAY

Way down south, around 3 5th Street, 47th Street, and
Garfield Boulevard, lies Chicago's great Blackbelt. It
is a **city within a city;" it speaks its own language and
has its own churches, schools, dance halls, movie palaces
and Hve and ten cent stores; also, it has such institutions
unique to the locality as barbecue stands. East India
herb shops, and black-and-tan night clubs. It is, in
short, the Harlem of Chicago.

Now, in keeping with the times, white people visit
the Blackbelt in great numbers. Mainly they come at
night, and late at night, to partake of the happy-go-
lucky and joyous spirit supposed to be inherent in the
Negro soul. This they find in the black-and-tan night
clubs, where Jazz is expressed in a way that could never
be duplicated in any white cabaret. All is lively, lurid,
noisy and **hot" in a Negro night club, and the pro-
ceedings get much '^hotter" as the night wears on.
Here, also, are the Negro "blues" singers, the amazing
tap dancers, those high-yellow chorines, and those snare
drummers and saxophone artists who seem almost pos-
sessed by wild demons. Here, too, among the patrons,
you will find the dashing dandies of the Great Black
Way and their amber-eyed fair companions — as well

251

as successful Negro lawyers, politicians, business men
and professional men.

Many white people, on the other hand, come down to
the Blackbelt for sightseeing purposes, and not a few
come to partake of delicious Southern dishes offered in
the various high-class restaurants and tea rooms of the
district. There are three or four such places where
Southern foods are prepared by big Negro mammys, as
skillful in handling a frying-pan as they are in their
ability to produce laughter and good cheer.

Both black-and-tan night clubs and Negro restaurants
are included in the following list, which is selective and
contains only those places of good repute. Incidentally,
if you want to retain the few rubles left in your pocket
after a visit to a black-and-tan, do not walk about on
the deserted side-streets of the Blackbelt at a late hour.
Like a good little boy, stick to the lighted highways.
And another thing: Don't forget that when you are in
the Blackbelt you are in an alien world — superficially,
at least — and that there are ladies and gentlemen among
the Negroes as there are among the whites. Therefore,
the Golden Rule applies here as it does anywhere else.
Now then, be on your way and enjoy yourselves!

GRAND TERRACE 3955 South Parkway

Swankiest of the Blackbelt night clubs, and one of the
oldest. It is richly furnished and there is plenty of
room for black, white, and intermediate shades. The
floor show is elaborate and contains some of the most
attractive colored chorines west of Harlem, as well as
lively tap dancers and vaudeville teams. Music is fur-
nished by Hines' band, which is nothing if not "hot."

252

Saturday night is the big night at the Grand Terrace.
Many of the patrons are white, this place being too
expensive for the hordes of Negro nighthawks, but
there are enough dusky damsels and high-brown gentle-
men to give the place color. Ed Fox is manager. Douglas
3600.

PORO TEA ROOM 441 5 South Parkway

Where the wealthier class of colored people dine and
lunch. Very elegant and refined and located on the
first floor of the Poro Beauty College, founded many
years ago by Annie M. Malone, said to be one of the
richest colored women in the country. This college oc-
cupies the imposing gray stone mansion in South Park-
way built by the late John R. Thompson, who estab-
lished the chain of one-arm restaurants. The food is of
the best quality and the menu contains a few Southern
specialties. Miss MacMurray is hostess. This tea room is
patronized frequently for afternoon tea by groups of
sightseeing students from Northwestern University and
the University of Chicago. Open for luncheon, afternoon
tea and dinner.

THE GOLDEN LILY 309 East Garfield Boulevard
The management is Chinese but the clientele is practi-
cally all colored. You can have more fun here than in
many other places, especially on a Saturday night. The
colored orchestra is really keen, the surroundings are
colorful, and the colored folks know how to enjoy them-
selves. You won't feel out of place, since everybody is
polite and no rough stuff is allowed. There are several
floor shows. The prices are within the means of the
average individual. Wentworth 0820.

253

CLUB EL RADO 23 5 East Garfield Boulevard

A block west of the Golden Lily. Made famous by
Nora Holt, the internationally-known "blues" singer.
The Monkey Club, started by Gentile Jimmy, a Black-
belt character, is the big event on Sunday night. The
orchestra warms up during the late hours, and so do
the entertainers, chorus girls, and buck-and-wing danc-
ers. Situated one flight down. Italian cooking if you
get hungry. Engelwood 1053 5.

RITZ CLUB 343 East Garfield Boulevard

Bill Bottoms' popular black-and-tan, where the atmos-
phere is torrid during the wee small hours. Plenty of
action from the colored saxophone player and the drum-
mer, and the entertainment goes on at a merry clip.
Floor shows, dancing between, exotic atmosphere, food,
and the beaming personality of Bill himself. Chicken
and chops are a specialty on the menu.

THE SUNSET 3 1 5 East 3 5 th Street

Last survivor of a day (or night) when black-and-tans
were plentiful along 3 5 th Street, which was then called
the Rialto of the Blackbelt. The Sunset is still popular
among after-theatre crowds and the amusement and
atmosphere are on a par with those found elsewhere in
the colored section of Chicago. Douglas 6100.

DUCK INN 4845 South Parkway

Mrs. Elier Richardson, a large, amiable colored woman
and an expert cook, is proprietor of this dining room
on the first floor of an old mansion. Her fried chicken
a la Richardson is delicious and done to a turn; so are

254

the roast duck, the frogs* legs, scallops, hot biscuits,
waffles, butterscotch pie and lemon pie, and the corn
bread. Her Sunday dinners are $1.00 and many white
people come to her board. Most of her patrons belong
to the professional and commercial classes on the south
side. Kenwood 6220.

CHAPMAN'S 3708 Indiana Avenue

A white-tiled counter, a table lunch room, and quite
a few Southern dishes, prepared by an expert chef.
Here are Southern fried chicken with rice, black-eyed
peas with salt pork, turnip greens and ham, fried corn
and bacon, sausage and fried apples, red beans and rice.
Southern hash and hominy grits, barbecue meats, and
sweet potato cobbler. Anderson B. Chapman conducts
the place and it is open until late. Douglas 0172.

KING TUT'S TOMB 4711 South Michigan Avenue
Another dine-and-dance place, situated under the
ground. Said to be the hottest spot in town. Al Bent-
ley's King Tut Syncopating Mummies, featuring Lee
Collins, the jazz cornetist from New Orleans, provide
music that would make a mummy come to life. Atmos-
pheric and lots of fun. Kenwood 0800.

KING GEORGE'S 4809 South State Street

Here is the big thrill in the Blackbelt. King George
(Mr. William Hale Thompson please note), is none
other than the eminent Mr. George Oglesby, the barbe-
cue king, who learned how to cook barbecue meat in
the hills of Tennessee. Theatrical people, diners-out
from the Loop, politicians, and policemen from the

255

various Blackbelt police stations come to King George's
Southern Barbecue Inn at all hours of the night and
day for the delicious and wholly satisfying barbecue
sandwiches that he serves. His place is a dingy one-
story nondescript shack, in a neighborhood of shacks,
but it houses the first and only authentic barbecue pit
in town. It is a large brick fireplace, taking up half
the space, and here you see chickens, pork, beef, and
other meats being broiled in the leaping flames. White
visitors stand about, eating the sandwiches; colored cus-
tomers are at the counters; a negro youth plays a piano
all night long; cooks are chopping up chickens with
hatchets; the atmosphere is gay and bohemian and every-
body laughs at King George's sallies and wise-cracks.
The sandwiches are 2 5 cents. You may also call up and
have King George's dishes delivered to your home any-
where in the city. Southern catfish is also served here.
Don't miss this place. The meats are clean and served
under sanitary conditions. Drexel 3223.

256

WIDE OPEN SPACES

Out on the county highways leading into Chicago, where
the motorists get reckless and the grasshoppers hop,
stand the roadhouses. Mostly they ofifer chicken din-
ners. We don't know why they feature chicken din-
ners; perhaps because you think of chicken when you
get out into the wide open spaces. Anyway, here is
the barnyard fowl — and served in a most appetizing
style. Or is it the ozone in your blood that makes you
feel it is appetizing? Of course, they also play up
steak and chop dinners — which you eat with great rel-
ish, too. And several of these places, particularly those
south of Chicago near the shore of the lake, make a
specialty of Lake Michigan perch dinners.

Northwest of Chicago, and directly west of the mil-
lionaire colonies along the North Shore, are located the
pleasure palaces of the wide open spaces. These are
lavish dine-and-dance establishments, serving first-class
foods and providing elaborate revues and music and
space for dancing. In such places, Chicagoans and North
Shoreites enjoy themselves during the summer nights,
feeling a sense of relief among the cool trees after a hot
feverish day in the city.

If you are interested and own a motor car, and if

257

you don't mind getting caught in traffic jams on the
way out or on the way in, then the following places are
worth your time and attention.

VILLA VENICE Milwaukee Koad, at Desplaines River
Most elaborate, novel, and swanky of all night life
centers in the wide open spaces outside Chicago. Located
northwest of the city, on the wide-spreading Milwaukee
Road, just where it bridges the old Desplaines River.
Also, conveniently set down directly west of the mil-
lionaire colonies along the North Shore, and the
millionaires and their guests do come here pretty con-
sistently. The Villa Venice is said to be America's only
theatre restaurant. A big rambling casino forms the
center-piece of an eighteen-acre estate; tall poplar trees
line the paths and avenues and colored lights depend
from them; there are also stone benches, fountains,
flower beds and plaster statues; you may dine on the
terrace or you may ride in a gondola on the river, the
while your gondoHer strums a mandolin. Nowhere
in Chicagoland can you get the illusion of being in some
gay and elegant Monte Carlo pleasure palace as at the
Villa Venice.

In the ballroom and main dining room of the casino,
decorated with the modernist murals of the Russian
artist, Roman Chatov, you observe the gorgeous revues
and floor shows which have made the name and fame of
M. Albert Bouche, proprietor of the Villa Venice. He
is also proprietor of the Villa Venice at Miami Beach.
Here, also, at the hands of deft and polite waiters, you
may partake of those rare dishes created by Chef Pierre,

258

formerly of the Tour d'Argent in Paris. These specials
are Hsted on the a la carte menu and are worth the
attention of any epicure. There are three floor shows
nightly, made up largely of imported talent, and music
is furnished by skillful Cuban musicians from Havana.
Table d'hote dinners are $3.50, $4.00 and $5.00. The
couvert is $2.00 on weekdays and $3.00 on Saturdays.
Telephone: Wheeling 8 or 107.

NEW DELLS Dempster Road, Morton Grove, III

Another well-known dine-and-dance pavilion among
the Cottonwood trees northwest of Chicago. Everybody
seems to know Sam Hare and his New Dells; he's had
this place here for over seven years. It is three miles
west of Evanston and the North Shore and its clientele
is made up of innumerable captains of industry and
capitalists and their wives and guests, out for an eve-
ning's diversion. There is room for nine hundred on the
large dance floor, and music is supplied by such popular
orchestra leaders as Ben Bernie, Ted Lewis and George
Olson. They appear at different periods during the
season and their lively melodies are broadcast over Sta-
tion WBBM. Four floor shows nightly, beginning at
8:30, with a couvert of $1.00. On Saturday night the
cover charge is $1.50. Steaks, chops, chicken, lobsters,
and frogs' legs are especially delectable at the New Dells
and add considerably to the fame of the place. You
reach the Dells by driving north out of Chicago on
Sheridan Road, as far as Evanston, then west on Demp-
ster Road. Morton Grove 1717.

259

LINCOLN TAVERN

Dempster Road, Morton Grove, 111,
Located down the road a bit from the New Dells, the
Lincoln Tavern is the oldest of the dine-and-dance
establishments in these parts. It has a large clientele
from all parts of Chicago and the North Shore, and
deservedly so, for the atmosphere here is gay and lively
and colorful. The dance floor represents the patio of a
Spanish castle; the colored lighting effects are unique,
there is room for one thousand persons, and music is
furnished by such capable masters as Al Handler and
the great Duke Ellington. Duke Ellington and his band
are all colored — and how they can play. Three floor
shows each night. No cover charge. Table d'hote din-
ners for $2.00, $2.50, and $3.00. Jack Huff, well-
known manager, closes this place in winter, operating
instead the Lincoln Tavern Town Club in uptown Chi-
cago. Morton 1919.

THE STUDIO INN

Railroad Avenue, Morton Grove, 111.
Although there is no music or dancing, the Studio Inn
gets a heavy "play" from the students at Northwestern
University in Evanston. They come here for nothing
else but the excellent steaks, and chops, and chicken
dinners. Open for luncheon, dinner, and late supper.
Take Dempster Road west out of Evanston. Morton
Grove 1780.

NORTHBROOK INN

Waukegan Road, Northbrook, 111,
Another popular spot directly west of Evanston. No

260

music, no dancing. Operated by Frank Barthelme,
whom everybody out northwest seems to know. Good
chicken dinners, $2.00; steak dinners, $2.25. Open for
luncheon, dinner, and late supper. Northbrook 9.

EARLY AMERICAN TEA SHOP Barrington, III

Not a roadhouse or dine-and-dance place but one of
the most interesting restaurants in Cook County. The
chicken dinners are unforgettable and you will come back
for more. Occupying an old house, this place is charm-
ingly done in the early American style. Private parties
and large groups are provided for in the upstairs rooms.
Dinner, $2.50. Early American antiques all about and
for sale. We know of no better place for Sunday dinner
and the ride in the country will do you good. But
you'd better call up first — Barrington 45 5. Take Demp-
ster Road to Northwest Highway, then to Barrington.
Not to be missed.

THE FARM River Road, Schiller Park, III

Popular among race track crowds returning from the
Arlington Heights race track out northwest. First-rate
steaks and capon dinners, and plenty of music and danc-
ing. No entertainment. Started a few years ago in
an old residence, but since then considerably enlarged
because of the crowds. The River Road runs north and
south, parallel with the old Desplaines River. From the
city, you reach the Farm by taking Irving Park Boule-
vard directly west to River Road, then to Schiller Park.
Franklin Park 297.

261

TRIANGLE CAFE

SIO Desplaines Street, Forest Park, III.
Directly west of Chicago, in the village of Forest Park.
Operated by ^'Mickey'* Rafferty, who also operates the
Antioch Palace, at Antioch, 111. Howard Harrell and
his orchestra provide the music for dancing and the
three floor shows, which begin at 10 P. M. Seats for
over eight hundred. A lively place and plenty of diver-
sion. From the city, drive west on Harrison Street to
Forest Park. Forest 1248.

KING'S

9602 South Western Aventce, Evergreen Park, 111.
Turning our attention southwest of Chicago, we come
to King's restaurant, just across the city limits. The
best corned beef and steak sandwiches in the county
may be gotten here and the place is always crowded in
the evenings. Take any street west to Western Avenue,
then south to Evergreen Park. Operated by Mike King.
Evergreen Park 81.

WILD WOOD INN

Forest Avenue, Willow Springs, III.
A quaint little old house among the rolling green hills
of Willow Springs, just off the Joliet Road out south-
west. Overlooks the sluggish Desplaines River. Con-
ducted by the Olsen family, who know how to cook
steaks and chicken in a most appetizing way. Many
politicians from Chicago's City Hall eat here. You'll
enjoy it. Willow Springs 48. Take Archer Avenue to
Willow Springs.

262

SMIDT'S RESTAURANT

430 Indianapolis Boulevard, Hammond, Ind.
Philip H. Smidt's big rambling old fish restaurant, south-
east of Chicago, where baseball players, sportsmen, and
lots of people from town go for their Lake Michigan
perch dinners. Chicken and steaks are also featured
here. Dinners, $1.50. Private dining rooms for large
parties. Open from 11 A. M. until closing — which
might be any hour of the night. Located just over the
Chicago boundary line in Indiana and only a short dis-
tance from the shore of Lake Michigan. To reach it
from the city go to South Chicago, then southeast on
Indianapolis Boulevard. Whiting 25 or 720.

LUNDGREN'S

1519 Calumet Avenue, Hammond, Ind,
Many of Chicago's fish lovers and diners-out prefer
Lundgren's restaurant, located in the same vicinity as
Phil Smidt's. The Lake Michigan perch (from Lake
Erie) served here is a delicious treat to the palate, and
so are the steaks and the chicken and the frogs' legs.
Fridays and Sundays are the big days here. Carl Lund-
gren, who founded this place over twelve years ago, is
dead, but the present management successfully carries
on the traditions started by him. Dinners, $1.50. Open
from 11 A. M. to 12 midnight. Whiting 297 or 13 6- J.

263

COVER CHARGES AND MINIMUM

CHARGES

'When we hear people complain about a cover charge in
a night club that furnishes entertainment, we become
annoyed. They do not realize that they are getting
what amounts to a theatrical performance in return for
the payment of the cover charge — and at even less
cost than in a downtown theatre. Don't get the im-
pression that we are in the pay of the night clubs for
making this statement. No indeed, not by a long shot.
We merely want you to understand what a cover charge
is all about. Most places that assess you for the privilege
of sitting at one of their tables stage a more or less
lavish floor show or other form of entertainment. It
costs money to put on such entertainment. And this
money comes from your cover charge.

Many places advertise "no cover charge" — but they
obtain the equivalent in another manner — the minimum
charge. In other words, you cannot buy any food —
or anything at all, for that matter — under a certain
figure. Let us say that the minimum charge is $2.50.
That means you must accept all the food they bring out

265

to you for $2.50, whether you can eat it or not. You
might just as well partake of it, since you cannot get
out of the place without laying down the two-fifty.

There is a third method of gently forcing you to
contribute to the support of the entertainers. This is
done in many of the night clubs which have neither
cover charge nor minimum charge. It is very simple.
They simply charge you from one-half to two dollars
for a 25 cent bottle of White Rock, Ginger Ale, or a
bowl of cracked ice, or any other similar essential to a
happy and successful evening.

266

TIPPING

The Great American — we were going to say "art", but
that isn't the word; perhaps "habit" is better — anyway,
the great American habit of tipping, which has now
spread to all corners of the globe, is little understood
by the average American. It is a well-known fact that
most Americans do not use their heads in tipping. They
tip more than they should simply because they do not
want to appear to be under-tipping, or because they are
careless. There is no reason why this should be done.
Let us, in our humble way, give you the lowdown on
the manner in which an experienced man-about-town
would do it.

During the noon hour, fifteen cents is the usual
contribution on a check which amounts to one dollar
and a half or less. Nobody would think of tipping
less. Incidentally, many waitresses get a very small
salary from the management and derive most of their
income from the tips. This is fair and square.

If your check, whether at noon hour or dinner hour
or at any other time, amounts to more than one fifty
and less than five dollars, you'd better tip on a basis
of fifteen per cent. This is the usual figure practised
by all veteran diners-out who wish to avoid the little

267

annoyances on the part of the attendants if anything
less is offered.

When your check is above five dollars, then you must ^

think in terms of twenty per cent. In any case, any-
thing less than a dollar would be regarded as heretical.

268

INDEX

(See page 270 for complete alphabetical list of restaurants)

NATIONALITY

American .... 23, 31, 48, 58, 61,
68, 69, 73, 80, 85, 87, 89, 94,
96, 98, 110, 111, 112, 116, 119,
121, 123, 125, 126, 127, 131,
132, 133, 134, 138, 140, 141,
142,, 145, 146, 147, 148, 166,
186-197, 202-206, 208-216, 218-
226
Arabian .... 169
Austro- American .... 89
Bohemian .... 176
Bohemian- American .... 52
Chinese .... 130, 135, 168, 186
English .... 34, 191
Filipino .... 181
Franco- American .... 90, 101
Franco-Italian . . . . 185, 191,

196, 210
French .... 71, 78, 143, 193
French-Creole .... 38, 63
German .... 108, 129, 179
German- American .... 26, 36,

42, 55, 75
Greek . . . . 120, 171
Hungarian .... 184, 194
Italian .... 44, 115, 117, 122,

150, 166, 173, 174, 184, 185,
187, 191, 193, 196, 213, 254

Italian- American .... 83, 165

Japanese .... 170

Jewish- American .... 66, 114, 211

Jewish (Kosher) .... 66, 174, 216

Mexican- American .... 124, 172

Polish .... 178

Roumanian .... 175

Russian .... 92, 177

Spanish .... 190

Swedish .... 99, 180, 185

Swedish- American .... 224

Turkish .... 151

L(x:ality

The Loop — Rialto . . . . 30, 31,
48, 55, 58, 61, 73, 80, 94, 107-
136, 202-206, 208, 212, 213, 246

Michigan Avenue . . . . 23, 44,
138-166

Uptown .... 92, 96, 178, 181,

214, 215, 216, 223-226

Tower Town .... 63, 68, 90, 99,

101, 184-197
North Side .... 75, 179, 180,

215, 243, 244, 245

South Side .... 34, 36, 38, 42,

269

1

52, 66, 69, 78, 83, 98, 168-176,
252-25J
West Side .... 71, 85, 177, 209,

210, 211, 215
Suburbia .... 234-241, 258-262
TABLE D'HOTES .... 23, 31,
36, 42, 44, 55, 61, 63, 66, 68,
71, 75, 78, 80, 83, 85, 87, 90,
92, 94, 96, 98, 99, 101, HI,
120, 121, 126, 134, 138, 140,
141, 143, 147, 150, 151, 152,
156, 157, 158, 160, 163, 179,
184, 186, 191, 192, 193, 196,
209, 210, 211, 214, 218, 220,
225, 226, 228, 232, 236, 258,
260, 261, 263
WITH DANCING .... 48, 61,
108, 121, 123, 126, 130, 134,
135, 138, 151, 158, 188, 190,
191, 211, 224, 237, 243, 244,
245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 252-
256, 258
WITH ENTERTAINMENT ....
48, 92, 211, 243, 244, 245, 246,
247, 248, 249, 252-256, 258
RESTAURANTS
Alice Baum's Dining Room ....

225
Alps .... 104
Amato's Cafe .... 173
Amber Pie ... . 193
Anna Lyon Tea Shop .... 214
Anne's Restaurant .... 131
Aquarium Cafe .... 106
Aquarium Restaurant .... 104
Arcade Cafeteria .... 204
Arcade Institute .... 1 54
Atlantic Dining Room .... 55
Auditorium .... 157
B-G Sandwich Shop .... 204
Bal Tabarin .... 247
Ballantine's .... 186

Bamboo Inn .... 130
Baron's .... 216
Belden-Stratford Hotel .... 105
Belmont Hotel .... 106
Berghoflf's .... 103
Bismarck Dining Room .... 108
Bit of Sweden .... 185
Blackhawk .... 245
Blackhawk Restaurant .... 126
Black Oaks, The .... 226
Blackstone, The .... 160
Blackthorn Tavern .... 191
Blue Fountain Room; Hotel La

Salle .... 61
Block's .... 166
Bob's Coffee Shop .... 189
Bollard & Frazier's Chop House

.... 110
Bon Vivant .... 78
Boston Oyster House .... 94
Boston Store Dining Room . . . .

231
Boveri Italian Restaurant .... 104
Bradshaw's .... 140
Brennan's .... 126
Brevoort Hotel .... 31
Cafe Francaise .... 104
Cafe Kantonese .... 186
Cafe Royal .... 211
Land O Barbecue Restaurant ....

249
Canton Tea Garden .... 247
Carson's .... 232
Casa De Alex .... 190, 247
Casa Granada .... 246
Casa Lago .... 193
Celtic Grill .... 125
Chanticleer Dining Room . . . .

239
Chapman's .... 2 5 5
Chez Dore .... 193
Chez Louis .... 101

270

Chad's .... 131

Giro's Grill ....

90

Club Alabam . . .

. 244

Club Ambassador .

... 244

Club Bagdad . . .

. 249

Club Casanova . .

. . 248

Club El Rado . . .

. 254

Coffee Dan's . . . ,

. 123

Colonial Tea Shop

. ... 195

Colosimo's .... 245
Congress Hotel .... 158
Cooley's Cupboard .... 235
Corona Cafe .... 215
Davis Store .... 232
Deerpath Inn .... 238
De Lazon's .... 132
Del Rio Restaurant .... 240
Deutsch's .... 114
Dill Pickle Club .... 188
Doric's .... 105
Drake Hotel .... 138
Duck-In .... 254
Dutch Room, The .... 208
E and M Restaurant .... 105
E. W. Riech's Restaurant . .

205
Early American Tea Shop . .

261
Eastgate Grill .... 195
Eat Shop Cafeteria .... 103
Edgewater Beach Hotel ....

247
Eitel's .... 218
El Harem .... 151, 249
El Puerto De Vera Cruz . . .
Erie Inn .... 194
Fair, The .... 232
Farm, The .... 261
Fleur de Nor .... 248
Foo Chow, Chinese Restaurant

103
Frascati's .... 196

224,

172

French Provincial Room .... 235

French Table D'Hote .... 236

Frolics .... 245

G T Restaurant .... 195

Garden of Italy .... 213

Garden of Zanzibar Tea Room ....

135
Garrick .... 121
Genoa Inn .... 104
German Restaurant .... 104
Gimbel's .... 132
Glaser's Cafe .... 176
Golden Lily, The .... 253
Golden Tumpkin Inn .... 247
Gold's . ... 66, 106
Goldstein's .... 175
Gondola Inn .... 191
Grand Terrace .... 252
Grand Terrace Cafe .... 248
Grayling's .... 150
Greek Cafe .... 120
Gypsy Tea Shop .... 135
Harding's Colonial Room .... 73
Harding's Grill .... 119
Harvey's Fred .... 219
Hawthorne Restaurant .... 240
Heinly's Grill .... 215
Henrici's .... 58
Heev's .... 235
Hillman's Cafeteria .... 230
Holland Tea Room .... 194
Homestead, The .... 236
Homewood Restaurant .... 105
Hotel Ambassabor .... 146
Hotel Belmont .... 106
Hotel Brevoort .... 31
Hotel, Edgewater Beach .... 224
Hotel Hyde Park .... 104
Hotel La Salle, Blue Fountain Room

.... 61
Hotel Planter's .... 202
Hotel Southmoor .... 247

271

Hungarian Restaurant .... 194
Hutcheson's Chili Parlor .... 124
Huyler's .... 144
Hyde Park Hotel .... 104
Idrott Swedish Co-Operative Cafe

.... 180
Ireland's Oyster House .... 68
John Citro's .... 174
Julien's .... 71
K-9 Club .... 187
Kau's .... 42
King George's . . . . 2J5
King Tut's Tomb .... 255
King's .... 262
Knickerbocker Cofifee Shop . . . .

141
Kranz's .... 230
Kristensen .... 223
L'Aiglon .... 63
La Louisiane .... 38
La Rosetta .... 185
La Rue's Dining Room .... 189
Lake Shore Drive Hotel .... 145
Laura Jacobsen's .... 163
Le Petit Gourmet .... 147
Leighton Co-Operative Dairy

Restaurant .... 204
Leighton 's Restaurant .... 105
Lenard's Restaurant .... 178
Limehouse, The .... 248
Lincoln Gardens Italian Restaurant

.... 104
Lincoln Park Refactory . ... 96
Lincoln Tavern .... 260
Lincoln Tavern Town Club . . . .

247
Lincoln Turner Hall Cafe . . . .

179
Lindy's .... Ill
Little Bohemia .... 52
Little Cozzi's .... 165
Little Florence .... 166

Little Garden, The .... 194
Little Jack's .... 85
Lobster Island Cafe .... 104
Lott Hotels .... 105
Lundgren's .... 265
Mack's Club .... 243
Madame Galli's .... 44
Maillard's .... 155
Maisonette Russe .... 92
Manila Village Cafe .... 181
Margherita Italian Restaurant ....

184
Marine Dining Room, Hotel Edge-
water .... 247
Marshall Field's .... 228
Martin Restaurant .... 220
Mauella Restaurant . . . . 115,

174
Maurice's .... 209
Mendel's .... 231
Merchandise Mart Restaurant ....

87
Milano Italian Restaurant ....

105
Miss Ellis Tea Shop .... 147
Mitchell's .... 202
Moraine Hotel .... 238
Mrs. Shintani's .... 170
Murphy's Restaurant .... 225
Music Box .... 248
Negri Italian Restaurant .... 103
Nello's .... 122
New College Inn .... 48, 246
New Dells .... 259
New Tivoli .... 210
Nine Hundred North .... 141
Northbrook Inn .... 260
North Shore Hotel Coffee Shop

.... 234
North Star Inn .... 185
Old Venice Cafe .... 191
Old Town Coffee Room .... 121

272

180 East Delaware Restaurant . . .

143
Oriental Cafe .... 169
Oriental Gardens .... 135
Palmer House .... 152
Panhellenic Restaurant .... 171
Parker's .... 98
Parkway Hotel .... 105
Paul's .... 83
Pete's Steaks .... 112
Phalanstery, The .... 197
Picardy Room .... 235
Picadilly .... 156
Pixley & Ehlers .... 203
Polk Street Station Restaurant . . .

220
Poro Tea Room .... 253
Potthaste's .... 103
Purple Pup, The .... 257
Quinn's Grill .... 215
Rainbo Sea Food Grotto .... 80
Rakilo's .... 202
Randolph German Restaurant . . .

129
Ravenna Restaurant .... 184
Red Star Inn .... 75
Rendezvous Moderne .... 235
Rickett's .... 105, 188
Ritz Club .... 254
Riviera Italian Restaurant . . .

103
Rococo House . ... 99
Roma .... 117
Round Table Inn .... 192
Russian Workers' Co-Operative

Restaurant .... 177
Rutz's Co£fee Chop .... 212
St. Clair Hotel .... 151
St. Hubert's .... 34
Sally's Waffle Shop .... 223
Sauerman's .... 103
Schlogl's .... 26

Scudder's Sea Food Inn .... 116
Seven Arts .... 186
Shepard Tea Room .... 162
Ship's Cafe .... 190
Show Boat .... 248
Skooglund Cafeteria .... 224
Smidt's Restaurant . . . .263
Southern Tea Shop .... 186, 192
Spino's .... 174
Steven's Building Restaurant ....

230
Stevens Hotel .... 163
Stockyard's Inn . ... 69
St©p and Shop .... 230
Strulevitz Tea Room .... 174
Studio Inn, The . . . .260
Studio Tea Shop .... 216
Subway Cafe .... 197
Sunrise Sea Food Grotto ... 189
Sunset, The .... 254
Terrace Garden .... 134, 247
Thompson's .... 133
Three Sisters Tea Room .... 239
Tip Top Inn .... 23
Torino Italian Restaurant ....

187
TowerJ Tea Room .... 149
Tower Town Tea Room .... 187
Triangle .... 127
Triangle Cafe .... 262
Turkish Village Cafe . . . . 24g
Vanity Fair .... 244
Vassar House .... 148
Venetian Room, Hotel Southmoor

.... 247
Vera Megowen's Tea Room

235
Vesuvio .... 150
Via Lag© .... 248
Victor House .... 196
Villa Demetre . . . . 23S
Vaia Spiro .... 104

273

Villa Venice .... 258

Virginia Dining Room .... 196

Vogue Cafe .... 249

W-R Sandwich Shop .... 203

Vagtayle's Waffle Shop .... 22 J

Walgren's .... 205

Walton Tea House .... 188

Webster Hotel .... 105

Weichmann & Gellert's .... 36

Weiss .... 89

Wildwood Inn .... 262
Windsor Tea Room .... 239
Woman's Exchange .... 142
Woman's Exchange Cafeteria .

234
Won Kow .... 168
Woods .... 144

274

THE

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COMPANY

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