Discovery of the Yosemite, and the Indian war of 1851, which led to that event

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DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

THE INDIAN WAR OF 1551.

WHICH LED TO THAT EVENT,

BY

LAFAYETTE HOUGHTON BUNNELL, M. D ,

OF THE MARIPOSA BATTALION, ONE OF THE DISCOVERERS,

LATE SURGEON THIRTY -SIXTH REGIMENT

^VISCONSIN VOLUNTEERS.

THIRD EDITION— REVISED AND CORRECTED.

, _ ,,^, ., -j^

Fleming h. Revell Company,

NEW YORK: , CHICAGO :

30 Union Square: East. | 148 and 150 Madison St

6 F»^ ^

Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880-1892, by

L. H. BUNNELL,

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

DEDICATION.

TO THE

HOIST. CHARLES H. BEREY,

THIS BOOK,
IN REMEMBRANCE OF KINDLY SUGGESTIONa,

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

. LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.

PAGft

I. Maps, Frontispiece.

II. Portrait,

III. The Yosemite Valley, 13

IV. El Capitan, 54

V. Bridal Veil Fall, 69

VI. Half Dome, 74

VII. North Dome and Royal Arches, .... 75

VI II. Cathedral Rocks, 77

IX. Glacier Fall, 84

X. Vernal Fall and Round Rainbow, .... 86

XI. Nevada Fall, 87

XII. Caches, or Acorn Storehouses, 129

XIII. Three Brothers, 146

XIV. Yosemite Fall, 166

XV. Mirror Lake, 204

XVI. Sentinel Rock, 213

XVII. The Indian Belle, 219

XVIII. Lake Ten-ie-ya, 236

XIX. Lake Starr King, 290

XX. Big Tree, 333

XX: Riding through a Tree Trunk, ... 325

Fire Stick, 184

Tunneled Tree •...,... 340

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

Incidents leading to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley — Major Savage
and Savages — Whiskey, Wrangling and War — Skinned Alive — A brisk
Fight — Repulse — Another Fight, and Conflagration, ... 1

CHAPTER II.

The Governor of California issues a Proclamation— Formation of the Ma-
riposa Battalion— The Origin and Cause of the War— New Material
Public Documents— A Discussion— Capt. Walker— The Peace Com-
missioners' Parley and the Indians' Pow-wow— The Mysterious
Deep Valley— Fonvard, March! 29

CHAPTER III.

March Down the South Fork — Capture of an Indian Village — Hungry Men
— An able Surgeon — Snow Storms — Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief of the Yo-
semites — Commander's Dilemma — Unique Manner of Extrication — Ap
proaching the Valley — First View — Sensations Experienced — A Lofty
Flight Brought Down, 40

CHAPTER lY.

Naming the- Valley — Signification and Origin of the Word — Its proper Pro-
nunciation : Yo-sem-i-ty — Mr. Hutchings and Yo Ham-i te — His Resto-
ration of Yo-sem-i-te, .57

CHAPTER Y.

Date of Discovery — First White Visitors — Captain Joe Walker's Statement
Ten-ie-ya' 3 Cunning — Indian Tradition — A Lying Guide — The Ancient
Squaw — Destroying Indian Stores — Sweat-houses — The Mourner's Toi-
let— Sentiment and Reality — Return to Head-quarters, . . 70

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER YI.

Out of Provisions — A Hurried Move — Mills where Indians take their
Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food — Advance Movement of
Captain Dill — A Hungry Squad — Enjoyment — Neglect of Duty — Escape
of Indians — Following their Trail — A Sorrowful Captain — A Mystery
made Clear — Duplicity of the Chow-chillas — Vow-chester's Good- will
Offering — Return of the Fugitives — Major Savage as Agent and Inter-
preter, 92

CHAPTEE YII.

Campaign against the Chow-chillas — The Favorite Hunting Ground — A
Deer Hunt and a Bear Chase — An Accident and an Alarm — A Torch-
light Pow-wow — Indians Discovered — Captain Boling's Speech — Cross-
ing of the San Joaquin — A Line of Battle, its Disappearance — Capture
of Indian Village — Jose Key's Funeral-pyre — Following the Trail — A
Dilemma — Sentiment and Applause — Returning to Camp — Narrow Es-
cape of Captain Boling, ..... , . 105

CHAPTEE YIII.

A Camp Discussion — War or Police Clubs — Jack Regrets a Lost Opportuni-
ty— Boling's Soothing Syrup — A Scribe Criticises and Apologises — In-
dian War Material and its Manufacture — The Fire-stick and its Sacred
Uses — Arrival at Head-quarters, 123

CHAPTEE IX.

starvation Subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace — Captain
Kuykendall's Expeditions — An Attack — Rout and Pursuit — A Wise Con-
clusion— Freezing out Indians — A Wild Country — ATerrific View — Yo-
semite versus King's River — Submission of the Indians South of the San
Joaquin — Second Expedition to Yosemite — Daring Scouts — Capture of
Indians— Naming of *♦ Three Brothers," 135

CHAPTEE X.

A General Scout — An Indian Trap — Flying Artillery — A Narrow Escape —
A Tragic Scene — Fortunes of War — A Scout's Description — Recovery
from a Sudden Leap — Surrounded by Enemies, . . , 148

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER XI.

Camp Amusements— A Lost Arrow — Escape of a Prisoner — Escape of An-
ther— Shooting of the Third — Indian Diplomacy — Taking His Own
Medicine — Ten-ie ya Captured — Grief over the Death of His Son — Ap-
petite under Adverse Circumstances — Poetry Dispelled — Really a Dirty
Indian, 160

CHAPTER XII.

Bears and Other Game— Sickness of Captain Boling — Convalescence and
Determination — A Guess at Heights — A Tired Doctor and a Used-up
Captain — Surprising an Indian — Know-nothingness, or Native American-
ism— A Clue and Discovery — A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular
Route, 175

CHAPTER XIII.

The Indian Names — Difl&culty of their Interpretation — Circumstances Sug-
gesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls — Mr. Richard-
son's Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow — Py-we-ack Mis-
placed, and ''Illi/iieUe" an Absurdity — An English Name Suggested for
Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah nli-la — Indian Supersti-
tions and Spiritual Views — A Free National Park Desirable — Off on the
Trail, . . • 198

CHAPTER XIY.

A Mountain Storm — Delay of Supplies — Clams and Ipecac — Arrival of
Train — A Cute Indian — Indian Sagacity — A Dangerous Weapon — Cap-
ture of Indian Village — An Eloquent Chief — Woman's Rights versus
Squaw's Wrongs — A Disturbed Family — A Magnificent Sunrise — On a
Slippery Slope — Sentiment and Poetry — Arrival at the Fresno, 222

CHAPTER XY.

The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite — General Description of the Val-
ley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights, . 240

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

A Trip to Los Angeles— Interview with Colonel McKee— A Night at
Colonel Fremont's Camp — Management of Cattle by the Colonel's
Herdsmen— Back to Los Angeles— Specimen Bricks of the Angel
City — An Adoiiioii to our Party — Mules versus Bears — Don Vincente
—A Silver Mme -Mosquitos— A Dry Bog— Return to Fresno— Mus-
ter out of Battalion— A Proposition, . . . , . 357

CHAPTER XVII.

Captain Boling elected Sheriff— Appointment of Indian Agents— Ten-ie-
ya allowed to Return to Yosemite — Murder of Visitors — Lieut.
Moore's Expedition and Punishment of Murderers — Gold Discoveries
on Eastern Slope of Sierras — Report of Expedition, and First Pub-
lished Notice of Yosemite — Squatter Sovereignty — Assault upon
King's River Reservation — The supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced
by Major Savage — A Rencounter, and Death of Savage — Harvey
Liberated by a Friendly Justice — An A.stute Superintendent — A Mass
Meeting — A Rival Aspirant — Indians and Indian Policy, . 272

CHAPTER XVIII.

Murder of Starkey — Death of Ten-ie ya and Extinction of his Band — A
few Surviving Murderers— An Attempt at Reformation— A Failure
and Loss of a Mule— Murders of Robert D Sevil and Robert Smith
— Alarm of the People— A False Alarm, .... 291

CHAPTER XIX.

Engineering and History— Speculation and Discouragement — A New
Deal — Wall Street — A Primitive Bridge— First Woman in the Yose-
mite—Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San
Francisco— Measurements of Heights — First Houses and their Occu-
pants—A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast. .... 301

CHAPTER XX.

Golden Theories and Glaciers 319

CHAPTER XXI.

Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea— Their Discovery and
Classification, 333

CHAPTER XXII.

Statistics— Roads and Accommodations — Chapel and Sunday School —
Big Farms and Great Resources— A Variety of Products— Long
Hoped for Results, 843

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INTRODUCTION.

mTEODUCTIOK

The book here presented is the result of an attempt to correct existing
errors relative to the Yosemite Valley. It was originally designed to
compress the matter in this volume within the limits of a magazine article,
but this was soon found to be impracticable; and, at the suggestion ol
Gen. C. H. Berry, of Winona, Minnesota, it was decided to ** write a
book.*'

This, too, proved more difficult than at first appeared.

Bom in Rochester, New York, in 1824, and earned to Western wilds
in 1833, the writer's opportunities for culture were limited; and in this,
his first attempt at authorship, he has found that the experiences ol
frontier life are not the best preparations for literary efi'ort. Beside this,
he had mainly to rely upon his own resources, for nothing could be ob-
tained in the archives of California that could aid him. It was not deemed
just that California should forget the deeds of men who had subdued hei
savages, and discovered her most sublime scenery. Having been a mem-
ber of the "Mariposa Battalion," and with it when the Yosemite was
discovered, having suggested its name, and named many of the princi-
pal objects of interest in and near the valley, it seemed a duty that the
writer owed his comrades and himself, to give the full history of these
events. Many of the facts incident thereto have already been given to
the public by the author at various times since 1851, but these have been
so mutilated or blended with fiction, that a renewed and full statement
of facts concerning that remarkable locality seems desirable.

10 INTRODUCTION.

While engag-ed upon this work, the writer was aided by the scientific
researches of Prof. J. D. Whitney, and by the ** acute and helpful criti-
cism " of Doctor James M. Cole of Winona, Minnesota.

Since the publication of the second edition of this book, and an arti-
cle from the autlior's pen in the Century Magazine for September, 1890,
numerous letters of approval from old comrades have been received,
and a few dates obtained from old oflQcial correspondence that will now
be introduced.

In addition to what may properly belong to this history, there have
been introduced a few remarks concerning the habits and character of the
Indians. This subject is not entirely new, but the opinions expressed are
the results of many years acquaintance with various tribes, and may be
useful.

The incidental remarks about game will probably interest some. To
the author, the study of nature in all its aspects has been interesting.

The author's views regarding the gold deposits and glaciers of the
Sierras are given simply as suggestions.

His especial eflforts have been directed to the placing on record events
connected with the discovery of the Yosemite, for description of its
scenery he feels to be impossible. In reverent acknowledgment of this,
there are submitted as a prologue, some lines written while contemplating
the grandeur of his subject.

WONDER LAND.

Hail thee, Yosemite, park of sublimity!

Majesty, peerless and old!
Ye mountains and cliffs, ye valleys and rifts.

Ye cascades and cataracts bold!
None, none can divine the wonders of thine,

When told of the glorious view 1

INTRODUCTION. 11

The wild world of light — from '* Beatitude's" height,
Old " Rock Chief," » "El Capitan " true!

Thy head proud and high! white brow to the sky!

Thy features the thunderbolts dare!
Thou o'erlookest the wall would the boldest appal

Who enter Yosemite's " Lair."'
Fair '• Bridal Veil Fall! " the queen over all,

In beauty and grace intertwined!
Even now irom thy height water-rockets of light

Dart away, and seem floating in wind !

And thou, high " Scho-look! " proud "Ah-wah-ne! " Invoke
To receive from " Kay-o-pha" " a boon!

That flowing from pines, in the region of vines,
May temper the heat of bright noon.

** Nevada" and " Vernal," emblems eternal
Of winter and loveliest Spring,

No language so bold the truth can unfold-
No pen can thee offerings bring !

And yet dare I say, of the cool "Vernal Spray,"

In the flash of the bright sun's power,
I welcome thy " ring," * though a drenching it bring,

The smile of a god 's in the shower!
And thuu, " Glacier Fall,'" ^ from thy adamant wall.

And winter-bound lakes at thy head —
Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen

So fitful from "Mirror Lake's" bed.

Te North and South Domes, ^ '* Ten-ie-ya's" lake homes,

" Cloud's Rest," and high " Tis-sa-ack" lone;
Mute " Sentinel," " Brothers," ye "Starr King," ye others —

*"Rock Chief,' a literal translation of " Tote-ack-ah-noo-la," rendered " El Cap-
itan" in Spanish, from the likeness of a man's head upon the wall.

2 The Yosemites were known as the " Bear tribe." " Ten-ie-ya" was chief.

8"Scho look" is the Indian name for the 'High Fall;" "Ah wah ne," the old
name of Valley, and " Kay o pha" (the sky), the name of highest or snow-clad
peaks.

* At intervals at the Vernal a round rainbow is formed, perfect as a finger-ring.

6 " Glacier Fall," in place of "Too loo lo-we ack."

« "Sentinel Dome" was known to the discoverers as the "South Dome, " and " Tis
sa ack." meaning cleft rock, as ihe " Half Dome."

12 INTRODUCTION,

Oh! what of the past have ye known?
To you has been given the mission from heaven

To watch through the ages of earth!
Your presence sublime is the chronicled time,

From the seon the world had birth!

Looking up the valley from a
height of about 1,000 feet above
the Merced River, and above sea
level 5,000 feet, giving some
faint idea of the beauty, grand-
eur and magnitude of this mao:-
nificent work of nature.

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

CHAPTER I.

Incidents leading to the discovery of the rosemite Valley — Major Savage
and Savages — Whiskey, wrangling and War — Skinned Alive— A brisk
Fight — Repulse — Another Fight, and Conflagration.

During the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old
Bear Yalley trail from Ridley's ferrj, on the Merced river,
my attention was attracted to the stupendous rocky peaks
of the Sierra Kevadas. In the distance an immense clilf
loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. Al-
though familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked
upon this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admira-
tion. While vainly endeavoring to realize its peculiar
prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it with re-
luctance to resume the search for coveted gold; but the im-
pressions of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory.
Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries con-
cerning the scenery of that locality. But few of the miners
liad noticed any of its special peculiarities. On a second
visit to Ridley's, not long after, that towering mountain
which had so profoundly interested me was invisible, an in-
tervening haze obscuring it from view. A year or more
passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were sat-
isfactorily solved.

DISCOVERY OF THE YOS EMITS,

During the winter of 1850-51, 1 was attached to an expe-
dition that made tlie first discovery of what is now known
as the Yosemite Yallej. While entering it. 1 saw at a
glance that the reality of my sublime vision at Ridley's
ferry, forty miles awaj^, was before me. The locality of the
mysterious cliff was there revealed — its proportions en-
larged and perfected.

Tlie discovery of this remarkable region was an event in-
timately connected with the history of the early settlement
of that portion of California. During 1850, the Indians in
Mariposa county, which at that date included all the terri-
tory south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced riv-
ers within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became
very troublesome to the miners and settlers. Their depre-
dations and murderous assaults were continued until the
arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in 1851,
when the general government assumed control over them.
Through the management of the commissioners, treaties
were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to
locations reserved for their special occupancy.

It was in the early days of tlie operations of this commis-
sion that the Yosemite Yalley was first entered by a com-
mand virtually employed to perform the special police du-
ties of capturing and bringing the Indians before these rep-
resentatives of the government, in order that treaties might
be made with them. These wards of the general govern-
ment were provided with supplies at the expense of the
])ublic treasury: provided that they confined themselves to
the reservations selected for them.

My recollections of those early days are from personal
observations and information derived from the earlier set-
tlers of the San Joaquin valley, with whom I was person-
ally acquainted in the mining camps, and through business
connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 2b

1850-51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage.
a trader, who in 1849-50 was located in the mountains near
the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced river, some
fifteen miles below the Yosemite valley.

At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed
a party of native Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his
trading post and mining camp were attacked by a band of
the Yosemite Indians. This tribe, or band, claimed the
territorj^ in that vicinity, and attempted to drive Savage off.
Their real object, however, was plunder. They were con-
sidered treacherous and dangerous, and were very trouble-
some to the miners generally.

Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and
drove oif the marauders, but from this occurrence he no
lonu^er deemed this 1 cation desirable. Being fully aware
of tlie murderous propensities of his assailants, he removed
to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the Aqua
Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. Soon after,
he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the min-
ing prospects became most encouraging, as the high water
subsided in that stream. This branch station was placed
in charge of a man by the name of Greeley.

At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosper-
ous business. He exchanged his goods at enormous profits
for the gold obtained from his Indian miners. The white
miners and ])rospecting parties also submitted to his de-
mands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village.
The value of his patrons' time was thus made a source of
revenue. As the season advanced, this hardy pioneer of
commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but in the midst
of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was
gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him
that a combination was maturino^ amonor the mountain
Indians, to kill or drive all the wlu'te men from the coun-

3a DISCOVERY OF THE TOSEMITE,

try, and plunder them of their property. To strengthen
his influence over the principal tribes, Savage had, accord-
ing to the custom of many mountain men, taken wives from
among them, supposing his personal safety would be some-
what improved by so doing. This is the old story of the
prosperous Indian trader. Rumor also came from his Indian
miners, that the Yoseraites threatened to come down on him
again for the purpose of plunder, and that they were urging
other tribes to join them.

These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cau-
tioned the miners to guard against marauders.

He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements
that hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations
against a surprise.

At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indiffer-
ence, but instructed the men in his employ to be continu-
ally on their guard in his absence. Stating that he was go-
ing to " the Bay^'' for a stock of goods, he started for San
Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, and a chief
of some note and influence who professed great friendship.

This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the lead-
ing spirits in arousing hostilities against the whites.

Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Sav-
age, the trader had doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had
no fears of personal injury, he carefully kept his suspicions
to himself. The real object Savage had in making this trip
was to place in a safe locality a large amount of gold which
he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress him with
the futility of any attempted outbreak by his people. He
hoped that a visit to Stockton and San Francisco, where
Jose could see the numbers and superiority of the whites,
would so impress him that on his return to the mountains
his report would deter the Indians from their proposed hos-
tilities.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

The trip was made without any incidents of importance,
but, to Savage's disappointment and regret, Jose developed
an instinctive love for whiskey, and having been liberally
supplied with gold, he invested heavily in that favorite In-
dian beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly all the time
he vvas in the city.

Becoming disgusted with Jose's frequent intoxication.
Savage expressed in emphatic terms his disapprobation of
such a course. Jose at once became greatly excited, and
forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in abusive epithets,
and disclosed his secret of the intended war against the
whites.

Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled
the drunken Indian to the ground. Jose arose apparently
sober, and from that time maintained a silent and dignified
demeanor. After witnessing the celebration of the admis-
sion of the State into the Union — which by appointment
occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admis-
sion passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year —
and making arrangements to have goods forwarded as he
should order them. Savage started back with his dusky re-
tainers for Mariposa. On his arrival at Quartzberg, he
learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting tribute
from the immigrants passing through their territory, and
soon after his return a man by the name of Moore was
killed not far from his Mariposa Station. From the
information here received, and reported murders of emi-
grants, he scented danger to himself. Learning that the
Indians were too numerous at " Cassady's Bar," on the San-
Joaquin, and in the vicinity of his Fresno Station, he at
once, with characteristic promptness and courage, took his
course direct to that post. He found, on arriving there,
that all was quiet, although some Indians were about, as
if for trading purposes. Among them were Pon-wat-chee
2

DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,

and Yow-ches-ter, two Indian chiefs known to be friendly.
The trader had taken two of his wives from their tribes.

Savage greeted all with his customary salutation. Leav-
ing his squaws to confer with their friends and to provide
for their own accommodations, he quietly examined the
memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods on hand.
With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the
business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him
that Indians from different tribes had come in but had
brought but little gold. To assure himself of the progress
made by the Indians in forming a union among themselves,
he called those present around him in front of his store, and
passed the friendly pipe. After the usual silence and delay.
Savage said: "I know that all about me are my friends,
and as a friend to all, I wish to have a talk with you before
I go back to my home on the Mariposa, from which I have
been a long distance away, but where I could not stop until
I had warned you.

" I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be
friends with the white men, and that they are trying to unite
the different tribes for the purpose of a war. It is better
for the Indians and white men to be friends. If the Ind-
ians make war on the white men, every tribe will be exter-
minated; not one will be left. I have just been where the
white men are more numerous than the wasps and ants;
and if war is made and the Americans are aroused to anger,
every Indian engaged in the war will be killed before the
whites will be satisfied." In a firm and impressive manner
Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a war, and
the advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse.
His knowledge of Indian language was sufficient to make
his remarks clearly understood, and they were apparently
well received.

Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

any of his schemes, the trader remarked, as he finished his
speech: "A chief who has returned with me from the place
wliere the white men are so numerous, can tell that what I
have said is true — Jose Juarez — jou all know, and will be-
lieve him when he tells you the white men are more pow-
erful than the Indians."

The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped
forward, with more assurance than he had sliown since the
belli Querent occurrence at the bay, and spoke with more en-
ergy than Savage had anticipated. He commenced by saying:
"Our brother has told his Indian relatives much that is truth;
we have seen many people; the white men are very numer-
ous; but the white men we saw on our visit are of many
tribes; they are not like the tribe that dig gold in the moun-
tains." He then gave an absurd description of what he had
seen while below, and said: "Those white tribes will not
come to the mountains. They will not help the gold dig-
gers if the Indians make war against them. If the gold
diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give
their gold for strong water and games; when they have no
more gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to
the mountains with clubs. They strike them down (refer-
ring to the police), as your white relative struck me while I
was with him." (His vindictive glance assured Savage that
the blow was not forgotten or forgiven.) " The white tribes
will not go to war with the Indians in the mountains.
They cannot bring their big ships and big guns to us; we
have no cause to fear them. They will not injure us."

To Savage's extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated
an immediate war upon the whites, assuring his listeners
that, as all the territory belonged to the Indians, if the
tribes would unite the whole tribe of gold-diggers could be
easily driven from their country ; but, if the gold-diggers
should stay longer, their numbers will be too great to make

5a DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

war upon, and the Indians would finally be destroyed. In
liis speech Jose evinced a keenness of observation inconsist-
ant with his apparent drunken stupidity. Savage had
thought this stupidity sometimes assumed. He now felt
assured that the chief had expected thereby to learn his
plans. To the writer there seems to be nothing inconsist-
ent with Indian craft, keenness of observation and love of
revenge in Jose's conduct, though he was frequently drunk
while at "the bay." While Jose was speaking other In-
dians had joined the circle around him. Their expressions
of approval indicated the effects of his speech. During this
time Savage liad been seated on a log in front of the store,
a quiet listener. When Jose concluded, the trader arose,
and stepping forward, calmly addressed the relatives of his
wives and the Indians in whom he still felt confidence.
The earnest and positive speech of the cunning cliief had
greatly surprised him ; he was somewhat discouraged at the
approval with which it had been received; but with great
self-possession, he replied, "I have listened very attentively
to what the chief, who went with me as my friend, has been
saying to you. I have heard all he has said. He has told
you of many things that he saw. He has told you some
truth. He has told of many things which he knows noth-
ing about. He has told you of things he saw in his dreams,
while "strong water " made him sleep. The white men we
saw there are all of the same tribe as the gold-diggers here
among the mountains. He has told you he saw white men
that were pale, and had tall hats on their heads, with cloth-
ing different from the gold-diggers. This was truth, but
they are all brothers, all of one tribe. All can wear the
clothing of the gold-diggers; all can climb the mountains,
and if war is made on the gold-diggers, the white men will
come and fight against the Indians. Their numbers will
be so great, that every tribe will be destroyed that joins
in a war against them."

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

Jose observing the effects of tliese statements, excitedly
interrupted Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: " He
is telling you words that are not true. His tongue is forked
and crooked. He is telling lies to his Indian relatives.
This trader is not a friend to the Indians. He is not our
brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to drive the
Indians from their country. We can now driv^e them from
among us, and if the other white tribes should come to their
help, we will go to the mountains; if they follow after us,
they cannot find us; none of them will come back; we will
kill them with arrows and with rocks." While Jose was
thus vociferously haranguing, other Indians came into the
grounds, and the crisis was approaching. As Jose Juarez
ended his speech, Jose Rey, another influential chief and
prominent leader, walked proudly into the now enlarged
circle, followed by his suite of treacherous Chow-chillas,
among whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico. He keenly
glanced about him, and assuming a grandly tragic style, at
once commenced a speech by saying: " My people are now^
ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers. If all
the tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will
drive all the white men from our mountains. If all the
tribes will go together, the white men will run from us, and
leave their property behind them. The tribes who join in
with my people will be the first to secure the property of
the gold-diggers."

The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Key controlled the
attention of the Indians. This appeal to their cupidity in-
terested them; a common desire for plunder would be the
strongest inducement to unite against the whites.

Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at
this impromptu council he had himself organized, and at
once withdrew to prepare for the hostilities he was sure
would soon follow. As soon as the Indians dispersed, he

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

started with his squaws for home, and again gave the settlers
warning of what was threatened and would soon be at-
tempted.

These occurrences were narrated to me bj Savage. The
incidents of the council at the Fresno Station were given
during the familiar conversations of our intimate acquaint-
anceship. The Indian speeches here quoted are like all
others of their kind, really but poor imitations. The Indian
is very figurative in his language. If a literal translation
were attempted his speeches would seem so disjointed and
inverted in their methods of expression, that their signifi-
cation could scarcely be understood; hence only the sub-
stance is here given.

The reports from Savage were considered by the miners
and settlers as absurd. It was generally known that moun-
tain men of Savage's class were inclined to adoj)t tlie vaga-
ries and superstitions of the Indians with whom they were
associated; and therefore but little attention was given to
the trader's warnings. It was believed that he had listened
to the blatant palaver of a few vagabond " Digger Indians,"
and that the threatened hostilities were only a quarrel be-
tween Savage and his Indian miners, or with some of his
Indian associates. Cassady, a rival trader, especially scofied
at the idea of danger, and took no precautions to guard him-
self or establishment. The settlers of Indian Gulch and
Quartzberg were, however, soon after startled by a report
brought by one of Savage's men called "Long-haired
Brown," that the traders' store on the Fresno had been
robbed, and all connected with it killed except himself.
Brown had been warned by an Indian he had favored, known
as Polonio-Arosa, but notwithstanding this aid, he had to
take the chances of a vigorous pursuit.

Brown was a large man of great strength and activity,
and as he said, had dodged their arrows and distanced his

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 66

pursuers in the race. Close upon the lieels of this report,
came a rumor from the miners' camp on Mariposa creek,
that Savage's establishment at that place had also been plun-
dered and burned, and all connected with it killed. This
report was soon after corrected bj the appearance of the
trader at Quartzberg. Savage was highly offended at the in-
difference with which his cautions had been received at Mari-
posa, and bj the county authorities, then located at Agua-Fria.
He stated that his wives had assured him that a raid was
about to be made on his establishment, and warned him of
the danger of a surprise. He had at once sought aid from
personal friends at Horse Slioe Bend — where he had once
traded — to remove or protect his property. While he was
absent, Greeley, Stiifner and Kennedy had been killed, his
property plundered and burned, and his wives carried oif
by their own people. These squaws had been importuned
to leave the trader, but had been faitliful to his interests.
The excitement of these occurrences had not subsided be-
fore news came of the murder of Cassady and four men near
the San Joaquin. Another murderous assault was soon
after reported by an immigrant who arrived at Cassady's
Bar, on the upper crossing of the San Joaquin. His shat-
tered arm and panting horse excited the sympathies of the
settlers, and aroused the whole community. The wounded
man was provided for, and a party at once started for the
'' Four Creeks," where he had left his comrades lighting the
Indians.

The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lew-
is Leach, of St. Louis, Mo., an immigrant who had but just
come in over the same route. The name of the wounded
man was Frank W. Boden. Lie stated that his party — four
men, I believe, besides himself — had halted at the " Four
Creeks" to rest and graze their horses, and while there a
band of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came down from their villagf^

la DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

and demanded tribute for crossing their territory. Looking
upon the demand as a new form of Indian beggary, but lit-
tle attention was paid to them. After considerable banter-
ing talk, some tobacco was given them, and they went off
grumbling and threatening. Boden said: "After the In-
dians left we talked over the matter for a while; none re-
garded the demand of the ' Indian tax-gathers' but as a triv-
ial affair. I then mounted my horse and rode off in the di-
rection in which we had seen some antelopes as we came
on. I had not gone far before I heard tiring in the direction
of our halting-pLace.

" Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my
comrades was surrounded by yelling demons. I was dis-
covered by them at the same instant, and some of them
dashed toward me. Seeing no possibility of joining my
party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but be-
fore I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a be-
numbing sensation in my arm, which dropped powerless.
Seeing that my arm was shattered or broken, I thought I
would give them one shot at least before I fell into their
hands. Checking my horse with some difficulty, I turned
so as to rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight
on the nearest of my pursuers, who halted at the same
time."

At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked
with a twinkle of satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: "I
never took better aim in my life. That Indian died sud-
denly. Another dash was made for me. My horse did not
now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must
leave that locality as soon as possible, and speedily distanc-
ed them all. As soon as the first excitement was over I
suffered excrutiating pain in my arm. My rifle being use-
less to me, I broke it against a tree and threw it away. I
then took the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the broken
arm in my other hand."

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

The party that went out to the place of attack — Dr.
Thomas Pajn's, now Yisalia, named for Nat. Vice, an ac-
quaintance of the writer — found there the mangled bodies
of Boden's four companions. One of these, it was shown
by unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merci-
less iiends while yet alive.

These men had doubtless made a stout resistance. Like
brave men they had fought for their lives, and caused, no
doubt, a heavy loss to their assailants. This, with their re-
fusal to comply with the demand for tribute, was the motive
for such wolfish barbarity.

It now became necessary that some prompt action should
be taken for general protection. Rumors of other depreda-
dations and murders alarmed the inhabitants of Mariposa
county. Authentic statements of these events were at once
forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by the sheriff and
other ofldcials, and citizens, urging the immediate adop-
tion of some measures on the part of the State for the de-
fense of the people. Raids upon the miners' camps and the
" Ranch" of the settlers had become so frequent that on
its being rumored that the Indians were concentrating for
more extensive operations, a party, without waiting for any
official authority, collected and started out to check the rav-
ages of the marauders that were found gathering among
the foothills. With but limited supplies, and almost with-
out organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome
march among the densely wooded mountains in pursuit of
the savages, who, upon report of our movements, were now
retreating. This party came up with the Indians at a point
high up on the Fresno. In the skirmish which followed a
Lt. Skeane was killed, William Little was seriously
wounded and some others slightly injured.

This engagement, which occurred on January 11th,
1851, was not a very satisfactory one to the whites.
The necessity of a more efficient organization was shown.

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

The Indians had here taken all the advantages of position
and successfully repulsed the attack of the whites, who
withdrew, and allowed the former to continue their course.

Some of the party returned to the settlements for sup-
plies and reinforcements, taking with them the wounded.

Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed
the Indians to near the North Fork of the San Joaquin
river, where they had encamped on a round rugged moun-
tain covered with a dense undergrowth — oaks and digger
pine. Here, protected by the shelt3ring rocks and trees,
they defiantly taunted the whites with cowardice and their
late defeat. They boasted of their robberies and murders,
and called upon Savage to come out where he could be
killed. In every possible manner they expressed their
contempt. Savage — who had joined the expedition — be-
came ver}^ much exasperated, and at first favored an imme-
diate assault, but wiser counsels prevailed, and by Captain
Boling's prudent advice, Savage kept himself in reserve,
knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as Doling
had said, his knowledge of the Indians and their territory
could not very well be dispensed with. This course did
not please all, and, as miglit have been expected, then and
afterwards disparaging remarks were made.

The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were
Jose Juarez and Jose Rey. The bands collected on this
mountain were under the leade ship of Jose Rey, who was
also known by his English name of " King Joseph." The
tribes represented were the Chow-chilla, Cliook-chan-cie,
Noot-chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah-
we-ah and Yosemite. The number of fighting men or war-
riors was estimated at about 500, while that of the whites
did not exceed 100.

It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered.
A general council was held, and it was decided that no at-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. , Sh

tack sliould be made until their position could be studied,
and the probable number to be encountered, ascertained.
Captain Kuy-ken-dall, Lieutenants Doss and Chandler, and
others, volunteered to make a reconnoissance before night
should interfere with their purpose.

The scouting party was not noticed until on its return,
when it was followed back to camp by the Indians, where
during nearly the whole night their derisive shouts and
menaces in broken Spanish and native American^ made in-
cessant vigilance of the whole camp a necessity. A council
was again called to agree on the plan to be adopted. This
council of war was general; official position was disregarded
except to carry out the decisions of the party or command.
The scouts had discovered that this rendezvous was an old
Indian village as well as stronghold.

The plan was that an attack should be undei-taken at day-
light, and that an effort should be made to set fire to the
village, preliminary to the general assault. This plan was
strongly advocated by the more experienced ones who had
seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare.

Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, "as brave men as ever
grew," seemed to vie with each other for the leadership, and
at starting Kuy-ken-dall seemed to be in command, but
when the assault was made, Chandler's elan carried him
ahead of all, and he thus became the leader indeed.

But thirty-six men were detached for the preliminary
service. Everything being arranged tb.e attacking party
started before davli2:ht. The Indians had but a little while
before ceased their annoyances around the camp. The re-
serve under Savage and Boling were to follow more lei-
surely. Kuy-ken-dall's command reached the Indian camp
without being discovered. Without the least delay the
men dashed in and with brands from the camp fires, set the
wigwams burning, and at the same time madly attacked

9a DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

tlie now alarmed camp. The light combustible materials
of which the wigwams were composed were soon in a bright
blaze. So rapid and so sudden were the charges made,
that the panic-stricken warriors at once fled from their
stronghold. Jose Eey was among the first shot down.
The Indians made a rally to recover their leader; Chandler
observing them, shouted "Charge, boys! Charge!!" Dis-
charging another voile}-, the men rushed forward.

The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answer-
ing back the shout of Chandler to charge by replying,
"Chargee!" "Chargee!" as they disappeared.

The w^hole camp was routed, and sought safety among the
rocks and brush, and by flight.

This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction
had been so quickly and recklessly done that the reserve
under Boling and Savage had no opportunity to participate in
the assault, and but imperfectly witnessed the scattering of
the terrified warriors. Kuy-ken-dall, especially, displayed a
coolness and valor entitling him to command, though out-
run by Chandler in the assault. The fire from the burning
village spread so rapidly down the mountain side toward
our camp as to endanger its safety. While the whites were
saving their camp supplies, the Indians under cover of the
smoke escaped. No prisoners were taken; twenty-three
were killed ; the number wounded was never known. Of
the settlers, but one was really wounded, though several
were scorched and bruised in the fight. None were
killed. The scattering: flio^ht of the Indians made a further
pursuit uncertain. The supplies were too limited for an
extended chase; and as none had reached the little army
from those who had returned, and time would be lost in
waiting, it was decided to return to the settlements before
taking any other active measures. The return was accom-
plished without interruption.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

CHAPTER II.

The Governor of California issues a Proclamation— Formation of the Ma-
riposa Battalion — The Origin and Cause of the War— New Material
Public Documents— A Discussion — Capt. Walker— The Peace Com-
missioners' Parley and the Indians' Powwow— The Mysterious
Deep Valley— Forward, March!

The State authorities had in the meantime become
aroused. The reports of Indian depredations multiplied,
and a general uprising was for a time threatened.

Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougal,
calling for volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to
punish the marauders. Our impromptu organization formed
the nucleus of the volunteer force in Mariposa county, as a
large majority of the men at once enlisted. Another bat-
talion was organized for the region of Los Angelos. Our
new organization, when full, numbered two hundred mount-
ed men. This was accomplished in time, by Major Savage
riding over to the San Joaquin, and bringing back men from
Cassady's Bar.

The date from which we were regularly mustered into the
service was January 24th, 1851. The volunteers provided
their own horses and equipments. The camp supplies and
baggage trains were furnished by the State. This military
force was called into existence by the State authorities, but
by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense of
the general government, under direction of Indian commis-
sioners. Major Ben McCullough was offered the command
of this battalion, but he declined it. This position was
urged upon him with the supposition that if he accepted it
the men who had once served under him would be induced

10 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

to enlist — many of the " Texan Kangers" being residents
of Mariposa county.

Major McCullough was at tliat time employed as Collec-
tor of " Foreign Miners' Tax," a very lucrative office. As
a personal acquaintance, he stated to me that the position
was not one that would bring him honor or pecuniary ad-
vantages. That he bad no desire to leave a good position,
except for one more profitable.

The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and
commissioned by Governor McDongall, were James D.
Savage, as Major; John J. Kuy-ken-dall, John Boling, and
William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, as Adjutant;
John I. Scott, Eeuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell,
as First Lieutentants ; Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant
Major; Dr. A. Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs. Pfifer
and Black as Assistant Surgeons. A few changes of
Lieutenants and subordinate officers were afterward made.

Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis
Leach, was appointed to fill the vacancy.

While writing up these recollections, in order to verify
my dates, which I knew were not always chronologically ex-
act, 1 addressed letters to the State departments of California
making inquiries relative to the "Mariposa Battalion,"
organized in 1851. In answer to my inquiry concerning
these known facts, the following was received from Adj.
General L. H. Foot. He says: ''The records of this of-
fice, both written and printed, are so incomplete, that I am
not aware from consulting them that the organization to
which you allude had existence." It is a matter of regret
that the history of the early settlement of California is, to
so great an extent, traditionary, without public records of
many important events. It is not deemed just that the
faithful services of the " Mariposa Battalion," should be
forgotten with the fading memory of the pioneers of that

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 106

period. There is in the State, an almost entire absence of
any public record of the "Indian war," of which the dis-
covery of the Yoseraite valley was an important episode.

Until the publication of Mr. J. M. Hutching's book, "In
The Heart of The Sierras, Yo-Semite, Big Trees,etc.," which
contains valuable public documents, the author of "Dis-
covery of The Yosemite" was, as stated on page 30, un-
able to obtain any official records concerning the operations
of the Mariposa battalion, or of the events which preceded
and caused the Indian War of 1851. Now that Mr.
Hutching's persistent industry has brought light from dark-
ness, I interrupt my narrative to make clear the origin of
the war, and to justify the early Pioneers engaged in it.
As a sample, also, of many obstructions encountered, I in-
sert a few extracts from letters relating to the "Date of
Discovery, "furnished the Century Magazine.

The attack made upon Savage on tlie Merced river in
1850, had for its object plunder and intimidation, and as
an invasion of Ten-ie-ya's territory was no longer threatened
after the removal of Mr. Savage to the Mariposa, the Yo
Semities contented themselves with the theft of horses
and clothing, but a general war was still impending, as
may be seen by reference to page 31 of ''In The Heart of
The Sierras," where appears : Report of Col. Adam John-
ston, a special agent, to Gov. Peter H. Burnett, upon his
return from Mariposa county to San Jose, then the (capital
of California, and which I here present: San Jose, Janu-
ary 2, 1851. Sir: 1 have the honor to submit to you, as
the executive of the State of California, some facts con-
nected with the recent depredations committed by the
Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the persons
and property of her citizens. The immediate scene of
their hostile movements are at and in the vicinity of the
Mariposa and Fresno. The Indians in that portion of your

11a DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

State have, for some time past, exhibited disaffection and
a restless feeling toward the whites. Thefts were contin-
ually being perpetrated by them, but no act of hostility
had been committed by them on the person of any in-
dividual, which indicated general emnity on the part of
the Indians, until the night of the 17th December last.
I was then at the camp of Mr. James D. Savage, on
the Mariposa, where I had gone for the purpose of re-
conciling any difficulty that might exist between the Indi-
ans and the whites in that vicinity. From various conver-
sations which I had held with different chiefs, I concluded
there was no immediate danger to be apprehended. On
the evening of the 17th of December, we were, however,
surprised by the sudden disappearance of the Indians.
They left in a body, but no one knew why, or where they
had gone. From the fact that Mr. Savage's domestic In-
dians had forsaken him and gone with those of the ranch-
eria, or village, he immediately suspected that something
of a serious nature was in contemplation, or had already
been committed by them.

The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth,
induced Mr. Savage to believe that whatever act they had
committed or intended to commit, might be connected with
himself. Believing that he could overhaul his Indians
before others could join them, and defeat any contemplated
depredations on their part, he, with sixteen men, started
in pursuit. He continued upon their traces for about
thirty miles, when he came upon their encampment. The
Indians had discovered his approach, and fled to an adja-
cent mountain, leaving behind them two small boysasleep^
and the remains of an aged female, who had died, no
doubt from fatigue. Near to the encampment Mr. Savage
ascended a mountain in pursuit of the Indians, from which
he discovered them upon another mountain at a distance.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 185L H

From these two mountain tops, conversation was com-
menced and kept up for some time between Mr. Savage
and the chief, who told him that they had murdered the
men on the Fresno, and robbed the camp. The chief had
formerly been on the most friendly terms with Savage, but
would not now permit him to approach him. Savage said
to them it would be better for them to return to their vil-
lage— that with very little labor daily, they could procure
sufficient gold to purchase them clothing and food. To
this the chief replied it was a hard way to get a living,
and that they could more easily supply their wants by
stealing from the whites. He also said to Savage he
must not deceive the whites by telling them lies, he must
not tell them that the Indians were friendly; they were
not, but on the contrary were their deadly enemies, and
that they intended killing and plundering them so long
as a white face was seen in the country. Finding all
efforts to induce them to return, or to otherwise reach
them, had failed, Mr. Savage and his company concluded to
return. When about leaving, they discovered a body of
Indians, numbering about two hundred, on a distant
mountain, who seemed to be approaching those with
whom he had been talking.

Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the
night of Thursday in safety. In the mean time, as news
had reached us of murders committed on the Fresno, we
had determined to proceed to the Fresno, where the
men had been murdered. Accordingly on the day fol-
lowing, Friday, the 20th, I left the Mariposa camp with
thirty-five men, for the camp on the Fresno, to see the
situation of things there, and to bury the dead. I also
dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several
other mining sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient
force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into the mouB-

12 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

tains. Several small companies of men left their respec-
tive places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted
with the country they were unable to meet us. We
reached the camp on the Fresno a short time after day-
light. It presented a horrid scene of savage cruelty. The
Indians had destroyed everything they could not use or
carry with them. The store was strip|)ed of blankets,
clothing, flour, and everything of value; the safe was
broken open and rifled of its contents; the cattle, horses
and mules had been run into the mountains; the murdered
men had been stripped of their clothing, and lay before us
filled with arrows; one of them had yet twenty perfect
arrows sticking in him. A grave was prepared, and the
unfortunate persons interred. Our force being small, we
thought it not prudent to pursue the Indians farther into
the mountains, and determined to return. The Indians in
that part of the country are quite numerous, and have been
uniting other tribes with them for some time. On reach-
ing our camp on the Mariposa, we learned that most of the
Indians in the valley had left their villages and taken their
women and children to the mountains. This is generally
looked upon as a sure indication of their hostile intentions.
It is feared that many of the miners in the more remote
regions have already been cut off, and Agua Fria and
Mariposa are hourly threatened.

Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest
solicitations of the people of that region, to ask such aid
from the state government as will enable them to protect
their persons and property. I submit these facts for your
couBideration, and have the honor to remain,

Yours very respectfully,

Adam Johnstow.

To his excellency Peter H. Burnett.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. 13

The report of Col. Johnston to Gov. Burnett had the
desired result, for immediately after inauguration, his suc-
cessor, Gov. McDougal, on January 13, 1851, issued a
proclamation calling for one hundred volunteers, and this
number by a subsequent order dated January 24:th, 1851,
after receipt of Sheriff James Burney's report, bearing
the same date of the governor's first call for one hundred
men, was increased to "two hundred able bodied men,
under officers of their own selection."

To insure a prompt suppression of hostilities, or a vig-
orous prosecution of the war, on January 25th, 1851, Gov.
McDougal appointed Col. J. Neely Johnson of his staff a
special envoy to visit Mariposa county, and in an
emergency, to call out additional forces if required, and
do whatever seemed best for the interests and safety of
the people endangered.

Col. Adam Johnston, before leaving for San Jose, had,
as he reported, "dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mari-
posa, and several other mining sections, hoping to concen-
trate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians
into the mountains. Several small companies of men left
their respective places of residence to join us, but being
unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet
us."

The same apparent difficulties beset Sheriff Bnrney, as
he was able to collect, but seventy-four men, but want of
knowledge of the country was not the sole cause of delay.
The Indians of the mountains at that time having been
accustomed to the occupation for many years of despoiling
the Californians, were the most expert bare back riders
and horse thieves in the world, and when many of us who
had horses and mules herding in the valley ranches of the
foot-hills and Merced bottoms, sent for them to carry us
into the distant mountains of the Fresno, where we had

14 DISCOVERY OF THE YO SEMITE,

heard the Indians were concentrating, our messengers in
many instances found the animals stolen or stampeded, and
hence the delay in most instances, though some of the
mining population who had arrived in California by water,
never seemed able to guide themselves without a compass,
and would get lost if they left a beaten trail. As for
myself, I could scarcely become lost, except in a heavy
fog or snow storm, and upon two occasions in the moun-
tains was compelled to leave my comrades, who were
utterly and wilfully lost, but who, finding me the most
persistent, finally called to me and followed out to well
known land marks.

It will appear by the letter of Major Burney that **The
different squads from the various places rendezvoused not
far from this place ( Agua Fria), on Monday, 6th, and num-
bered but seventy- four men." 1 was at Shirlock's Creek
on the night before, Jan. 5th, 1851, and had promised to
join the Major in the morning; but when the morning
came, my animals were gone, stolen by Indians from my
Mexican herdman.

Mr. C. H. Spencer had sent his servant *'Jimmy,'' to
Snel ling's ranche, on the Merced River, for his animals,
and after a delay of perhaps two or three days, they were
brought up for use. Mr. Spencer kindly loaned me a
mule for temporary use, but upon his having his saddle
mule stolen a few nights after, I gave back his mule and
bought a fine one of Thos. J. Whitlock, for whom Whit-
lock's Creek was named. I had previously been able to
start with a small squad on the trail of Major Burney and his
brave men, but met some of them returning after the fight,
among whom I remember, were Wm. Little, shot through
the lungs, but who finally recovered, a Mr. Smith, known
as "Yankee Smith,'' sick, as he said, "from a bare-footed
fool exposure in the snow," and Dr. Phifer, who had been

AND INDIAN WAU OF 1861. 15

^iven the caie of the wounded and sick men. There were
several others unknown to me, or whose names I have now
forgotten.

The differeat accounts I received from the men enffaered
in the fight, were so conflicting, that in referring to it
in previous editions, on page 25, I could only say that it
"was not a very satisfactory one to the whites." I could
only state the general impression received from Mr.
Little's account, which was that the men had been unne-
cessarily exposed to cold and danger, and that only by the
dash and bravery of the officers and men engaged in the
affair were they able to withdraw into a place of tem-
porary safety, until joined by re-inforcements.

Indian fighting was new to most of the men engaged,
and, like the soldiers on both sides at the outbreak of
the Rebellion, they had been led to expect a too easy
victory.

But we have now the report of Major Burney to Gov.
McDougal, and also a letter from Mr. Theodore G.
Palmer, of Newark, IS'ew Jersey, to his father, written
&\e days after the battle, and which has been kindlv
placed at my disposal. Military men will readily per-
ceive and enjoy the entire artlessness and intended truth-
fulness of Mr. Palmer's letter, as well as his modest
bravery. The two letters read in connection with that of
Col. Adam Johnston, are most valuable in fixing dates
and locations for any one with a knowledge of the top-
ography of the country, and of the events they nariate.
They set at rest forever the absurd claim that the
first battle of the Indian War of 1851 was fouirht in
the Yosemite valley, for the battle was fought on a
mountain. Mr. Ilutchings, to whose industry so much
is due, has strangely overlooked the fact, that the refer-
ence to '^Monday 6th," in Major Burney'g letter, could

16 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

only have reference to Monday, January 6th, 1851, the
month in which the letter was written, and not to De-
cember, 1850, as given by Mr, Hutchings, in brackets. The
6th of December, 1850. occurred on a Friday; on Tuesday,
December 17, 1850, the three men were killed on the
Fresno river station of James D. Savage; on Friday, De-
cember 20th, 1850, they were buried; on Monday, January
6th, 1851, Major Burney, sheriff of Mariposa County,
assembled sl strong posse to go in pursuit of the Indian
murderers, and coming up with them on a mountain
stronghold on Jan. 11th, 1851, destroyed their villages,
and then retreated down the mountain some four miles to
a plain in the Fresno valley, where he erected a log
breastwork for temporary defense. Nothing but the most
vivid imagination, coupled with an entire ignorance of the
region of the Yosemite, could liken the two localities to
each other. The Hetch Hetchy valley of the Tuolumne
river and some of the cliffs of the Tuolumne and of the
King's river, bear a general resemblance to some of the
scenery of the Yosemite, but when the Yosemite valley
itself has been seen, it will never be forgotten by the
visitor.

Major Burney's Letter to Gov. McDougal.

Agfa Fria, January 13, 1851.
Sir: Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed
by Mr. Johnston and others, of repeated and aggravated
depredations of the Indians in this part of the State.
Their more recent outrages you are probably not aware of.
Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian agent,
they have killed a portion of the citizens on the head of
the San Joaquin river, driven the balance off, taken
away all movable property, and destroyed all they could
not take away. They have invariably murdered and
robbed all the small parties they fell in with between here

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 17

and the San Joaquin. News came here last night that
seventy-two men were killed on Rattlesnake Creek; several
men have been killed in Bear Yallej. The Fine Gold
Gnlch has been deserted, and the men came in here yes-
terday. Nearly all the mules and horses in this part of
the State have been stolen, both from the mines and the
ranches. And I now, in the name of the people of this
part of the State, and for the good of our country, appeal
to your Excellency for assistance.

In order to show your Excellency that the people have
done all that they can do to suppre&s these things, to secure
quiet and safety in the possession of our property and
lives, I will make a brief statement of what has been
done here.

After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc.,
we endeavored to raise a volunteer company to drive the
Indians back, if not to take them or force them into
measures. The diffei-ent squads from the various places
rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th, and
numbered but seventy-four men. A company was formed,
and I was elected captain; J. W. Riley, first lieutenant; E.
Skeane, second lieutenant. We had but eight day's
provisions, and not enough animals to pack our provisions
and blankets, as it should have been done. We, however,
marched, and on the following day struck a large trail of
horses that had been stolen by the Indians. 1 sent for-
ward James D. Savage with a small spy force, and I fol-
lowed the trail witli my company. About two o'clock in
the morning, Savage came in and reported the village near,
as he had heard the Indians singing. Here I halted, left
a small guard with my animals, and went forward with the
balance of my men. We reached the village just before
day, and at dawn, but before there was light enough to see
how to fire our rifles with accuracy, we were discovered by

18 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

their sentinel. When I saw that he had seen us, I ordered
a charge on the village (this had been reconnoitered by
Savage and myself). The Indian sentinel and my com-
pany got to the village at the same time, he yelling to
give the alarm. I ordered them to surrender, some of
them ran off, some seemed disposed to surrender, but
others fired on us; we fired and charged into the village.
Their ground had been selected on account of the advan-
tages it possessed in their mode of warfare. They num-
bered about four hundred, and fought us three hours
and a half.

We killed from forty to fifty, but cannot exactly tell
how many, as they took off all they could get to. Twenty-
six were killed in and around the village, and a number of
others in the chaparrel. We burned the village and pro-
visions, and took four horses. Our loss was six wounded,
two mortally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane,
the other a Mr. Little, whose bravery and conduct through
the battle cannot be spoken of too highly. We made lit-
ters, on which we conveyed our wounded, and had to
march four miles down the mountain, to a suitable place
to camp, the Indians firing at us all the way, from peaks
on either side, but so far off as to do little damage. My
men had been marching or fighting from the morning of
the day before, without sleep, and with but little to eat.
On the plain, at the foot of the mountain, we made a rude,
but substantial fortification ; and at a late hour those who
were not on guard, were permitted to sleep. Our sentinels
were (as I anticipated they would be) firing at the Indians
occasionally all night, but I had ordered them not to come
in until they were driven in.

I left my wounded men there, with enough of my com-
pany to defend the little fort, and returned to this place
for provisions and recruits. 1 send them to-day re-inforce-

AND IXDIAN WAR OF 1851. 19

meats and provisions, and in two days more I march by
another route, with another re-inforcement, and intend to
attack another village before going to the fort. The Indi-
ans are watching the movements at the fort, and I can
come up in the rear of them unsuspectedly, and we can
keep them back until I can hear from Your Excellency,

If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or
any other person to keep this company together, we can
force them into measures in a short time. But if not
authorized and commissioned to do so, and furnished with
some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and
pay for the services of the men, my company must be
disbanded, as they are not able to lose so much time
without any compensation.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

James Burnet.

In a subsequent letter of Major Bnrney, addressed to
Hon. W. J. Howard, occurs the following passage:

"The firFt night out you came into my camp and re-
ported that the Indians had stolen all your horses and
mules — a very large number; that you had followed their
trail into the hill country, but, deeming it imprudent to go
there alone, had turned northward, hoping to strike my
trail, having heard that I had gone out after Indians. I
immediately, at sunset, sent ten men (yourself among the
number) under Lieutenant Skeane — who was killed in
the fight next day — to look out for the trail, and report,
which w^as very promptly carried out."

Page 35, "In Heart of S. and Legislative Journal" for
1851, page 600.

It is only required of me to say here that re-inforced
by such leaders of men as Kuykendall, Boling, Chand-
ler and Doss, there was no delay, and the campaign waa

20 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

completed at "Battle Mountain," a water shed of the San
Joaquin.

I now introduce a letter of great value, to ne, as it
fixes the date of the first battle, and disproves assertions
made in the Century Magazine:

Hart's Ranch, Califoenia, January 16th, 1851.

My Dear Father : When I wrote my last letter to you I had
fully determined to take a Ranch near Pacheco's Pass, as I in-
formed you, but before three days had passed the report of Jim
Kennedy's murder on the Fresno was confirmed, and I started
for the mountains in pursuit of the Indians who were commit-
ting depredations all through the country and had sworn to kill
every white man in it. Four hundred men had promised to go,
but at the appointed time only seventy- seven made their appear-
ance. With these we started under the command of Major
Burney, Sheriff of Mariposa County, guided by Mr. Jas. D.
Savage, who is without doubt the best man in the world for
hunting them out.

From his long acquaintance with the Indians, Mr. Savage has
learned their ways so thoroughly that they cannot deceive him.
He has been one of their greatest chiefs, and speaks their lan-
guage as well as they can themselves. No dog can follow a
trail like he can. No horse endure half so much. He sleeps
but little, can go days without food, and can run a hundred. miles
in a day and night over the mountains and then sit and laugh for
hours over a camp-fire as fresh and lively as if he had just been
taking a httle walk for exercise.

With him for a guide we felt little fear of not being able to
find them.

On Friday morning about ten o'clock, our camp again moved
forward and kept traveling until one that night, when ''haltl
we are on the Indians," passed in a whisper down the line.
Every heart beat quicker as we silently unsaddled our animals
and tied them to the bushes around us, Commands were given
in whispers and we were formed in a line. Sixty were chosen
for the expedition, the balance remaining behind in charge of
camp.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 21

Savage said the Indians were about six miles off; that they
were engaged in a feast. He pointed out their fires, could hear
them sing and could smell them, but his eyes were the only ones
that could see ; his ears alone could hear, and his nose smell
anything unusual. Still, there was such confidence placed in
him that not one doubted for an instant that everything was as
he said.

About two o'clock we started in Indian file, as still as it was
possible for sixty men to move in the dark, for the moon had
set. For three long hours did we walk slowly and cautiously
over the rocks and bushes, through the deepest ravines and up
steep and ragged mountain, until within a half mile of the
enemy.

Here every one took off his boots, when we again pushed for-
ward to about two hundred yards from the camp. Another halt
was called to wait for daylight, while Savage went forward to
reconnoitre. He succeeded in getting within ten paces of the
Kancharia, and listened to a conversation among them in which
his name was frequently mentioned. He found that it was a
town of the Kee chees, but that there weie about one hundred
and fifty of the Chow-cbil la warriors with them and several of
the Chuc chan-ces. Had be found only the Kee chees as he ex-
pected, we were to surround the Rancharia and take all prison-
ers, but the presence of so many Chow-chil-las, the most warlike
tribe in California, made a change of plan necessary.

Daylight by this time began to appear. We had been lying in
our stocking-feet on the ground on the top of a mountain within
a few paces of the snow for more than an hour, almost frozen
by the intense cold, not daring to move or speak a word.

It was not yet light enough to see the sight of our rifles, when
an Indian's head was seen rising on the hill before us For a mo-
ment his eyes wandered, then rested on us, and with a yell like
a Coyote he turned for the Rancharia. Never did I hear be-
fore such an infernal howling, whooping and yelling, as saluted
us then from the throats of about six hundred savages, as they
rushed down the hill into the gim-o-sell bushes below.

Our huzzahs could, however, hardly have sounded more

22 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

pleasant to them, as when finding we were discovered, we
charged on their town. Fifty rifles cracked almost instantane-
ously; a dozen Indians lay groaning before their huts, and many
supposed we had undisturbed possession. Our firing had ceased
and we were looking around for plunder, when a rifle fired from
the bushes below, struck a young Texan, Charley Huston, stand-
ing by my side. He fell with a single groan, and we all supposed
him dead. My first impression was that I was shot, for I plain-
ly heard the ball strike and almost felt it. This was a surprise
that almost whipped us, for not knowing that the Indians had
fire-arms, we were only expecting arrows. Before that shot was
fired, I had always entertained the idea that I could run about as
fast as common men (and I was one of the first in the charge),
but by the time I had collected my wandering senses, I was nearly
alone; the majority of the party some thirty paces ahead, and
running as if they never intended to stop.

Captain Burney and Mr. Savage were on top of the hill using
every exertion to make the company halt and form. He had
partly succeeded, when a pistol ball struck a man in the face, he
fell, but raising himself up said, "if we stay here we will be all
shot" and a break was made for the trees.

Still some few remained in rank and others slowly answered
to the orders to form, when our Second Lieutenant fell mortally
wounded. He was carried off, and every man took his tree.

The Indians had again possession of their Rancharia, and of
a slight eminence to the left, and were sending showers of bul-
lets and arrows upon us from three sides. These two points had
to be gained even if it cost half our men. Leaving then, enough
to guard our present posidon, the rest of us charged on the hill,
took it, stormed the Baacharia, took and burnt it, and returned
to our former position with only one man wounded, Wm, Little,
shot through the lungs.

The close fighting was now over, for we could not give chase
and were forced to lie behind trees and rocks and pick out such
as exposed themselves. It was about half past ten when, finding
it useless to remain longer, litters were made for the wounded
and we started for camp. Then again we had warm work, for

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 23

all down the pass, the Indians had stationed themselves to fire
on us, forcing us to charge on them several times, for while we
were in plain sight, they were completely hid behind the gim-o-
sell brush.

In our march back, the rear guard was kept at work about as
hard as at any time during the morning, but not a single man
was hurt, and only one mule was killed.

We moved our camp that night, six miles lower down, where
we laid the foundations of a fort and left thirty men to guard it
and take care of the wounded.

The rest of us started below the next morning, after burying
Lieutenant Skeane, who died in the night.

The Indians acknowledged to eleven men killed, though fifty
killed and wounded would be a moderate estimate. Our
loss was seven wounded — two mortally (as we then supposed,
but Mr. Little finally recovered. — Author.)

The force of the Savages consisted of, as near as could be as-
certained, four hundred warriors. We burned a hundred wig-
wams, several tons of dried horse and mule meat, a great number
of bows and arrows, and took six mules.

Several amusing incidents occurred during the fight and
others of the most heroic bravery on the part of the Indians.
One old squaw was wounded accidentally at the first charge, and
was unable to get off. One of our men was going to finish her
with his knife, but seeing it was a woman he left her. No
sooner had he gone than she picked up a bow and lodged three
arrows in another man. I believe she was not touched after
that.

The whole body of Indians seemed bent on killing Mr. Savage
partly because he would not be their chief and lead them against
the whites, and partly because he was, they knew, our greatest
dependence as guide, and their particular dread. To kill him,
many of them sacrificed their own lives. They would come one
at a time and, standing in open ground, send arrows at him
until shot down ; and one old chief who used to cook for Savage,
would ask him after every shot where he had hit him. They
would talk to him to find out where he was, and as soon as he

24 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

would answer, the balls and arrows would fly thick around his
head: but he escaped unhurt; but as he said, worse frightened
than he ever was before. He did not fancy such partiality.

A large party has started on a second expedition, but I believe
I am perfectly satisfied with Indian fighting.

T. G. Palmer.

Note.— It will haye been observed that especial reference has twice
been made to Gim-o-sell brush, a shrub that grows only on warm
slatey soil, on Southern exposures, sought by Indians for winter
quarters, and not on the granite cliffs and mountains of the Yosemite.
I had not thought it necessary to draw upon nature for testimony,
but a new generation has sprung into existence, and the eternal hills
may speak to them.

The mining camp or village of Agua Fria, at the date
of the organization of the battalion, vt^as the county seat
of Mariposa County, and the residence of the Sheriff,
Major James Burney. Whittier's Hotel was the head-
quarters for enlistment. Finding the number called for
incomplete, while yet in daily expectation of the arrival of
the mustering officer, James D. Savage made a rapid ride
to the San Joaquin diggings, and returned with men enough
to complete the organization.

We were formally reported for duty, and went into camp
about two miles below Agua Fria, on about the 10th of
Feb,, 1851, but when mustered in, the rolls were dated to
include service from Jan. 24th, 1851, the date of the last
order of enlistment. An informal ballot was taken to show
the preference of the men for officers to command us,
Major Burney having previously declined, and when that
had been demonstrated, other aspirants were withdrawn by
their friends, a formal ballot was taken and a regular organ-
ization of three companies completed. The Governor was
duly notified of our proceedings, and in a few days the
commissions were received by our respective officers.

After a few days in camp on Agua Fria Creek, we moved
down to a camp in the foot hills, known afterwards as

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. 25

Lewis Ranch, were we had abundant grass and good water,
and there was established our head-quarters, while waiting
for Col, J. Neely Johnson and the U. S. Indian Com-
migsion, as stated in this chapter.

After instructions were given us by Col. Johnson, and
the Commission had exhausted its eloquence upon the
"Children of the Great Father at Washington," and had
started for the Fresno, we were allowed to go in pursuit of
some very sly marauders who had stolen into our camp in
the night, loosened and run off some of our animals, and
taken some others herded in the foot hills, but no extended
operations were allowed, as Major Savage ordered us to be
in readiness for a campaign against the Yosemities, when
the first big storm should come, that would prevent their
escape across the Sierra Nevada. After a few days* delay
the storm did come with continued violence, as recorded.

In view of the facts and dates here given how absurd
the statement that we did not go to the Yosemite "until
about the 5th or 6th of May, 1851." Our idleness in camp
from Feb. 10th and the patient indulgence of the (Commis-
sioners, while waiting for the results of our first opera-
tions, surpass belief.

And now I reluctantly notice an error of statement by
Mr. Julius N. Pratt in the Century Magazine for Decem-
ber, 1890.

Had the usual courtesy been extended of allowing me to
see and answer Mr. Pratt's erroneous impressions in the
same number, I am convinced that he would have kindly
withdrawn his article. I am led to this belief, not alone
from letters received, but from the internal evulence oi an
upright character conveyed by Mr. Pratt's graphic account
of "A Trip to California by way of Panama in 1849,"
in the Century for April 1891.

The Century Magazine is a most powerful dissemina-

26 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITEy

tor of truth, or error, and though I cannot hope for a com-
plete vindication through this volume, its readers shall have
the facts of ''The Date of Discovery" set before them, "for a
truthful regard for history" and my own self-respect re-
quire it.

In the Century Magazine for September, 1890, page
795, is an article from my pen which gives the date of
discovery of the Yosemite as March, 1851. Mr. Pratt, in the
December number following, assumes, with ''a truthful
regard for history," that I was in error, and gives about
"January 10th, 1851, as the approximate, if not exact date
of discovery." Many of the men whom Mr. Pratt sup-
posed to have been the discoverers, were, or became, my
own comrades. When Mr. Pratt's article appeared, I at
once sent a reply, but it received no recognition.

Knowing that Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New
Jersey, was in the only engagement occurring with Indians
in Mariposa county at the time given by Mr. Pratt as the
date of his supposed discovery of the Yosemite, I wrote,
requesting Mr. Palmer to call on the editor of the Century
in my behalf.

In a letter of January 9th, 1891, Mr. Palmer wrote: **It
is the unexpected which always happens, and your com-
munication to the Century in response to Pratt's 'Cali-
fornia,' was never received. Mr. Johnson, the associate
editor, received me very pleasantly. He assured me that
although he sent you an advance copy of Pratt's article,
nothing had been received in the office from you since in
reply, and he presumed you had given up the case in
default.

"I so completely satisfied him that Mr. Pratt is in
error, that he requested me to express my reasons in the
Century^ and to assure you that any communication from
you will always have respectful attention.''

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 27

On January 24th, 1891, Mr. R. W. Johnson, associate
editor, wrote rae, saying: "Since telling your friend, Mr.
Palmer, that we had not received an article from you in
reply to Mr. Pratt, we have discovered the manuscript.
We have in type a short note from Mr. Palmer which
will be acceptable to you."

A few days after Mr. Johnson kindly sent me the proof.
On March 12th, 1891, Mr. Johnson wrote me: "Mr. Pratt,
after examination of the subject, has written us a short
letter, withdrawing his contention of your claim to the
discovery of the Yosemite, the publication of which we
trust will be satisfactory to you and also to Mr. Palmer.
Will you now tell us whether there is anything in this new
claim that Walker was the discoverer of the Valley?"

I at once saw that if Mr. Pratt's i-etraction was pub-
lished there would be no need of the publication of Mr.
Palmer's communication. About this time a letter
of earlier date, January 28, 1891, was sent me by Mr.
Palmer, received from Mr. Pratt, in which the latter gen-
tleman says: "I enclose a letter which seems to prove that
the party about whicli I wrote to the Century was not
your party. One went to the North fork, the other
(yours) to the South." That statement left no base what-
ever for Mr. Pratt's imaginary "fight at the Yosemite, and
thus of the discovery," for the North Fork affair was
not a battle at all, but "a scare" on a fork which enters
the Merced river thirty-five miles below the Yosemite, and
as for the battle fought on the 11th of January, 1851, by
Major Burney's company, in which Mr. Pahner was
engaged, it was not fought on the South fork or in any
valley, but upon a high mountain of the Fresno river.

Mr. Palmer now felt that his note to The Century was
too long delayed, and wrote asking for its withdrawal or its
publication. Mr. K. U. Johnson replied: '^The Cent^iry

28 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

is made up two months in advance," but that he intended
inserting it in the April number, &c. Mr. Palmer added
in his letter to me, **I think he will."

The matter had now become not only interesting, but
amusing to me; for very soon Mr. Palmer wrote, '^whether
my answer to Pratt will be published or not, is doubtful.
I infer (from a letter) that Pratt will not rest quiescent
under my contradiction." Again Mr. Palmer wrote, en-
closing copy of letter to Mr. Johnson of March 14th, 1891,
answering Mr. Johnson's Statement, "that Mr. Pratt, while
being convinced of his injustice to Dr. Bunnell and being
ready himself to withdraw his former statement, takes
issue with you as to the identity of the two parties,'' and
then Mr. Johnson asks, "would it not be just as well and
more effective if we were simply to print from Mr. Pratt
that he is 'pleased to withdraw all contention of the claim
made by Dr. Bunnell that he was the original discov-
erer?'" Let me here say, in passing, that I never made
such a claim.

Mr. Palmer very properly objects to becoming the
"scapegoat" for me or any one else, and replying to Mr.
Johnson, says: '^Whether my letter is printed or not, is a
matter of entire indifference to me, (personally) * * it
was only at your desire, and to please Dr. Bunnell, that I
wrote the little I did. I left you under the impression
that you desired to get at the exact facts and would be glad
to rectify the injustice done to the doctor by the publica-
tion of Mr. Pratt's communication. * * * I believe
that the publication of my letter would not only gratify
him, but also place the Century right upon the record,
where it surely desires to stand."

Mr. Palmer could say no more, but to his great chagrin,
but not surprise, oil March 17th, he received a letter of
thanks from the associate editor of the Century, in which

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 29

Mr. Johnson says: 'Tlease accept our thanks for your
letter of the 14th, and for your obliging attitude in the
matter." Whether any retraction from Mr. Pratt will ever
appear in the Century is now, in view of the long delay, a
a matter of great indifference to me."^

Now a few facts in regard to the Discovery of the Yose-
mite Yalley by Capt. Joseph Reddeford Walker, for whom
Walker's river, Lake and Pass were named. It is not a
new claim, as supposed by Mr. E.. U. Johnson, but appears
in the Peoples Encyclopcedia and was set up in the San
Jose Pioneer soon after Capt. Walker's death, and an-
swered by me in the same paper in 1880.

I cheerfully concede the fact set forth in tlie Pioneer
article that, '''His were the first white inan's eyes that ever
looked upon the Yosemite" above the valley, and in that
sense, he was certainly the original white discoverer.

The topography of the country over which the Mono
trail ran, and which was followed by Capt. Walker, did not
admit of his seeing the valley proper. The depression indi-
cating the valley, and its magnificent surroundings, could
alone have been discovered, and in Capt. Walker's conver-
sations with me at various times while encamped between
Coultersville and the Yosemite, he was manly enough to
say so. Upon one occaision I told Capt. AValker that
Ten-ie-ya had said that, "A small party of white men once
crossed the mountains on the north side, but were so guided
as not to see the valley proper." With a smile the Captain
said: "That was my party, but 1 was not deceived, for the
lay of the land showed there was a valley below ; but we had
become nearly bare-footed, our animals poor, and ourselves
on the verge of starvation, so we followed down the ridge to
Bull Creek, where, killing a deer, we went into camp."

*Mr. Pratt's retraction has finally appeared in the June number for
1891. •

80 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

The captaiD remained at his camp near Coulters ville for
some weeks, and disappeared as suddenly as he came. He
once expressed a desire to re-visit the region of the Yosemite
in company with me, but could fix no date, as he told me
he was in daily expectation of a government appointment
as guide, which I learned was finally given him.

Captain Walker was a very eccentric man, well versed
in the vocal and sign languages of the Indians, and went
at his will among them. He may have visited the
Yosemite from his camp before leaving. I was strongly
impressed by the simple and upright character of Cap-
tain Walker, and his mountain comrades spoke in the
highest praise of his ability. Fremont, Kit Carson, Bill
Williams, Alex Grody, Yincenthaler (not Yincent Haler,
as erroneously appeared in the March number of the
Century), Ferguson and others, all agreed in saying that
as a mountain man, Captain Walker had no superior.

Rev. D. D. Chapin, of Maysville, Kentucky, formerly
rector of Trinity Church, San Jose, and of St. Peter's
Church, San Francisco, as well as editor of Paoific Church-
man^ kindly called my attention to a seeming neglect
of the claim for Captain Walker as the discoverer of the
Yosemite. All that I have ever claimed for myself is,
that I was one of the party of white men who first entered
the Yosemite valley, as far as known to the Indians.

The fact of my naming the valley cannot be disputed.
The existence of some terribly yawning abyss in the moun-
tains, guarded at its entrance by a frightful "liock Chief,"
from whose head rocks would be hurled down upon us if we
attempted to enter that resort of demons, was frequently
described to us by crafty or superstitious Indians. Hence
the greater our surprise upon first beholding a fit abode for
angels of light. As for myself, I freely confess that my
feelings of hostility against the Indians wer« overcome by

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 81

a sense of exaltation ; and although I had suffered losses of
property and friends, the natural riglit of the Indians to
their inheritance forced itself upon my mind.

The Mariposa Battalion, was assigned by Governor Mc-
Dougall to the duty of keeping in subjection the Indian
tribes on the east side of the San Joaquin and Tulare val-
leys, from the Tuolumne river to the Te-hon Pass. As soon
as the battalion was organized, Major Savage began his
preparations for an expedition. There was but little delay
in fitting out. Scouting parties were sent out, but with no
other effect than to cause a general retreat of the Indians
to the mountains, and a cessation of hostilities, except the
annoyances from the small bands of thieving marauders.
No Indians were overtaken by those detachments, though
they were often seen provokingly near. When about to
start on a more extended expedition to the mountains, Major
Savage received an order from the Governor to suspend
hostile operations until lie should receive further instruc-
tions. We learned at about the same time through the news-
papers, as well as from the Governor's messenger, that the
United States Commissioners had arrived in San Francisco.
Their arrival had for some time been expected.

Up to this period the Indian affairs of California had
not been officially administered upon. Public officers had
not before been appointed to look after the vast landed es-
tates of the aboriginal proprietors of this territory, and to
provide for their heirs. After some delay, the commission-
ers arrived at our camp, which was located about fifteen
miles below Mariposa village. Here the grazing was most
excellent, and for that reason they temporarily established
their head-quarters. These officials were Colonels Barbour
and McKee, and Dr. Woozencroft. They were accompanied
by Col. Keely Johnson, the Governor's aid, and by a small
detachment of regulars. The commissioners at once pro-

9

32 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ceeded to make a thorough investigation into the cause of
the war, and of the condition of affairs generally. Having
secured the services of some of the Mission Indians, these
were sent out with instructions to notify all the tribes that
the commissioners had been directed by the President to
make peace between them and the white settlers; and that
if they would come in, they should be assured protection.

The so-called Mission Indians were members of different
tribes who had been instructed in the belief of the Catholic
Church, at the old Spanish Missions. These Indians had
not generally taken part in the war against the white set-
tlers, although some of them, with the hostiles, were the
most treacherous of their race, having acquired the vices
and none of the virtues of their white instructors.

During this period of preliminaries a few Indians ven-
tured in to have a talk with the commissioners. They were
very shy and suspicions, for all had been more or less im-
plicated in the depredations that had been committed.
Presents were lavishly distributed, and assurances were
given that all who came in should be supplied with food
and clothing and other useful things. This policy soon be-
came generally known to the Indians.

Among the delegations that visited the commissioners
were Yowches-ter,* chief of one of the more peaceful bands,
and Russio, a Mission Indian from the Tuolunme, but who
in former years had belonged to some of the San Joaquin
tribes. These chiefs had always appeared friendly, and had
not joined in the hostile attitude assumed by the others.
At the outbreak on the Fresno, Yow-ches-ter had been tem-
porarily forced into hostilities by the powerful influence of
Jose Rey, and by his desire to secure protection to his rela-
tive, one of Savage's squaws. But with the fall of Jose
Rey, his influence over Yow-ches-ter declined, and he was
once more left free to show his friendship for the whites.

•An Indian corruption of Bautista.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 33

As for Rnssio, his intelligent services were secured as peace-
maker and general Indian interpreter by the conimissioners,
while a much less competent Mission Indian, Sandino,
served in the capacity of interpreter during expeditions into
the mountains.

Having been assured of safety, these two chiefs promised
to bring in their people and make peace with the whites.
All that came in promised a cessation, on the part of their
tribes, of the hostilties begun, for which they were rewarded
with presents.

Yow-chester, when questioned, stated " that the mountain
tribes would not listen to any terms of peace involving the
abandonment of their territory; that in the fight near the
North Fork of the San Joaquin, Jose Rey had been badly
wounded and probably would die; that his tribe were very
angry, and would not make peace." We had up to this
time supposed Jore Rey had been killed at " Battle Moun-
tain." Russio said: " The Indians in the deep rocky valley
on the Merced river do not wish for peace, and will not come
in to see the chiefs sent by the great father to make treaties.
They think the white men cannot find their hiding places,
and that therefore they cannot be driven out." The other
Indians of the party confirmed Russio's statements. Yow-
chester was the principal spokesman, and he said: " In this
deep valley spoken of by Russio, one Indian is more than
ten white men. The hiding; places are many. They will
throw rocks down on the white men, if any should come near
them. The other tribes dare not make war upon them, for
they are lawdess like the grizzlies, and as strong. We are
afraid to go to this valley, for there are many witches
there."

Some of us did not consider Yow-chester's promise of
friendship as reliable. We regarded him as one of the hos-
tile mountain Indians. He, however, was never again en-
3

34 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

gaged in liostilities against the wliites. I afterwards learn-
ed that Yow-cliester and Savage had once professed a strong
friendship for each other. The trader at that time had
taken a bride who was closely allied to tlie chief. Alter the
destruction of Savage's trading posts, in which Yow-ches-
ter had taken an active part in procuring a forcible divorce
and division of property (though the murders were ascrib-
ed to the Chow-chillas), all forms of friendship or relation-
ship had ceased. At this interview no sign of recognition
passed. After listening to this parley between the Com-
missioners and the Indians, I asked Major Savage, who had
been acting as interpreter, if he had ever been into the deep
valley the Indians had been speaking of. He at first re-
plied that he had, but on a subsequent conversation he cor-
rected this statement by saying, "Last year while I was
located at the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced, I was
attacked by the Yosemites, but with the Indian miners I
had in my employ, drove them off, and followed some of
them up the Merced river into a canon, which I supposed
led to their stronghold, as the Indians then with me said it
was not a safe place to go into. From the appearance of
this rocky gorge I had no difficulty in believing them.
Fearing an ambush, I did not follow them. It was on this
account that I changed my location to Mariposa creek. I
would like to get into the den of the thieving murderers.
If ever I have a chance I will smoke out the Grizzly Bears
(the Yosemites) from their holes, where they are thought
to be so secure."

'No peace messengers came in from the mountain Indians,
who continued to annoy the settlers with their depredations,
thieving from the miner's camps, and stealing horses and
mules from the ranches. While we were awaiting the ac-
tion of the commissioners, we lost some horses and mules,
which were stolen from the vicinity of our camp. After

AND INDIAN WAR OF 18r>1. 35

the commissioners had decided upon the measures to be
adopted, our battalion was ordered into line and we were
then officially informed by Col. Johnson, that our opera-
tions as a military organization, would henceforth be under
the direction of the United States Commissioners. That
by their order we were now assigned to the duty of subdu-
ing such Indian tribes as could not otherwise be induced to
make treaties wit'i them, and at once c ase hostilities and
depredations. " Your officers will make all reports to the
commissioners. Your orders and instructions will hereaf-
ter be issued by them." The colonel then complimented
the soldierly appearance of the battalion (very customary
in later years) and then said: " While I do not hesitate to
denounce the Indians for the murders and robberies com-
mitted by them, we should not forget that there may ]:>er-
haps be circumstances which, if taken into consideration,
might to some extent excuse their hostility to the whites.
The}^ probably feel that they themselves are the aggrieved
party, looking upon us as trespassers upon their territory,
invaders of their country, and seeking to dispossess them
of their homes. It may be, they class us with the Spanish
invaders of Mexico and California, whose cruelties in civil-
izing and christianizing them are still traditionally fresh in
their memories," etc. In conclusion the colonel said; "As
I am about to leave, I will now bid you ' good bye,' with
the hope that your actions will be in harmony with the
wishes of the commissioners, and that in the performance
of yonr duties, you will in all cases observe mercy where
severity is not justly demanded."

Colonel Johnson gave us a very excellent little speech;
but at that time we were not fully impressed with the just-
ness of the remarks which had been made from l<inrlness
of heart and sincerely humane feelings. Many of ns had
lost — some heavily — by the depredations of the Indians.

36 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Friends and relatives liad been victims of their atrocities.
Murders and robberies had been committed without provo-
cations then discernible to us. Many of us would then have
been willing to adopt the methods of the old Spanish mission-
aries, who, it was said, sometimes brought in their converts
with the lasso. However, these orders and the speech from
Col. Johnson were received with cheers by the more impa-
tient and impulsive of the volunteers, who preferred active
service to the comparative quiet of the camp.

The commissioners selected a reservation on the Fresno,
near the foot-hills, about eighteen or twenty miles from our
camp, to which the Indian tribes with whom treaties had
been made were to be removed, and at this locality the com-
missioners also established a camp, as head-quarters.

The deliberative action on the part of the commissioners,
who were very desirous of having the Indians voluntarily
come in to make treaties with them, delayed any active co-
operation on the part of our battalion until the winter rains
had fully set in. Our first extended expedition to the moun-
tains was made during the prevailing storms of the vernal
equinox, although detachments had previously made excur-
sions into the country bordering upon the Sierras. This re-
gion, like parts of Virginia, proved impassable to a mount-
ed force during the wet season, and our operations were con-
fined to a limited area.

It was at last decided that more extended operations
were necessary to bring in the mountain tribes. Although
fliere was no longer unity of action among them, they re-
fused to leave their retreats, and had become even suspicious
of each other. The defeat of Jose liey, and the desertion
of the tribes who had made, or had promised to make, trea-
ties with the commissioners, and had ceased from all hostile
demonstrations, had e m:1 jealousies and discontent to
divide even the most turbulent bands. For the extended

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 37

operations of the battalion among the mountains, it was
decided that Major Savage, with the companies of Captains
Boling and Dill, should make expeditions which would re-
quire him to traverse the regions of the San Joaquin and
Merced rivers. Captain Kuy-ken-dall with his company
were to be detached to operate for the same purpose in the
regions of the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers. The Indians
captured were to be escorted to the commissioners' camp
on the Fresno. Notwithstanding a storm was gathering,
our preparations were cheerfully made, and when the order
to "form into line" was given, it was obeyed with alacrity.
'No "bugle call" announced orders to us; the "details"
were made quietly, and we as quietly assembled. Prompt-
ly as the word of command "mount," was given, every
saddle was filled. With " forward march," we naturally
filed ofi" into the order of march so readily assumed by
mounted frontiersmen while traveling on a trail.

We left our camp as quietly and as orderly as such an un-
disciplined body could be expected to move, but Major Sav-
age said that we must all learn to be as still as Indians, or
we would never find them.

This battalion was a body of hardy, resolute pioneers.
Many of them had seen service, and had fought their way
against the Indians across the plains; some had served in
the war with Mexico and been under military discipline.

Although un uniformed, they were well armed, and their
similarities of dress and accoutrements, gave them a general
military appearance.

The temperature was mild and agreeable at our camp
near the plain, but we began to encounter storms of cold
rain as we reached the more elevated localities.

Major Savage being aware that rain on the foot-hills and
plain at that season of the year indicated snow higher up,
sent forward scouts to intercept such parties as might at-

38 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

tempt to escape, but the storm continued to rage with such
violence as to render this order useless, and we found the
scouts awaiting us at the foot of a mountain known as the
Black Kidge. This ridge is a spur of the Sierra l^evada.
It separates the Mariposa, Chow-chilla, Fresno and San
Joaquin rivers on the south from tlie Merced on the north.
While halting for a rest, and sipping his coffee. Savage ex-
pressed an earnest desire to capture the village he had
ascertained to be located over the ridge on the south fork
of the Merced. He was of the opinion that if it could be
reached without their discovery of us, we sliould have no
fighting to do there, as that band would surrender at once
rather than endanger their women and children, who would
be unable to escape through the snow. Toward this village
we therefore marched as rapidl}^ as the nature of the steep
and snow-obstructed trail would permit us to travel. An
Indian that answered to the name of '" Bob," an attache of
the Major, serving as guide. Climbing up this steep black
mountain, we soon reached the region of snow, which at
the summit, was fully four feet deep, though the cold was
not intense. By this time, night was upon us. The trail
led over the ridge at a point where its tabled summit was
wooded with a forest of pines, cedars and firs, so dense as
almost to exclude the light of the stars that now and then
appeared struggling through the gloom.

We laboriously followed our guide and file leader, but
this trail was so indistinctly seen in the darkness, that at in-
tervals deep mutterings would be heard from some drowsy
rider who missed the beaten path. As we commenced the
descent of the ridge, the expressions became more forcible
than polite when some unlucky ones found themselves
floundering in the snow below the uncertain trail. If left
to their own sagacity, a horse or mule will follow its lead-
er; but if a self-willed rider insists upon his own judgment,

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 39

the poor animal has not only to suffer the extra fatigue in-
curred bv a mistep, but also the punishment of the spur, and
hear tlie explosive maledictions of the master. The irrita-
ting responses of his comrades that " another fool lias been
discovered," was not then calculated to sooth the wrath that
was then let loose.

With short halts and repeated burrowings in the deep,
damp snow, the South Fork of the Merced was at length
reached about a mile below what is now known as
Clark's, or Wah-wo-na, from Wah-ha wo-na, a Big Tree.
We here made a halt, and our weary animals were provided
with some barley, for the snow was here over a foot deep.
The major announced that it was but a short distance below
to the Indian village, and called for volunteers to accom-
pany him — it might be for a fight or perhaps only a foot-
race— circumstances would determine which. The major's
call was promptly and fully answered, although all were
much fatigued with the tedious night march. The animals
were left, and a sufficient number was selected to remain as
a reserve force and camp guard. At daylight we filed away
on foot to our destination, following the major who was
guided by " Bob."

40 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

OHAPTEK III.

March Down the South Fork— Capture of an Indian Village— Hungry
Men— An able Surgeon— Snow Storms- Visit of Ten-ei-ya, Chief of
the Yosemites — Commander's Dilemma — Unique Manner of Extrica-
tion— Approaching the Valley — First View — Sensations Experienced
— A Lofty Flight Brought Down.

There was a very passable trail for horses leading down
the riirlit bank of the river, but it was overlooked on the
left bank by the Indian village, which was situated on a
high point at a curve in the river that commanded an exten-
sive view up and down. To avoid being seen, the Major led
us along down the left bank, where we were compelled, at
times, to wade into the rushing torrent to avoid the precipi-
tous and slippery rocks, which, in places, dipjDcd into the
stream. Occasionally, from a stumble, or from the decep-
tive depths of the clear mountain stream, an unfortunate
one was immersed in the icy fluid, which seemed colder
than the snow-baths of the mountain. With every precau-
tion, some became victims to these mischances, and gave
vent to their emotions, when suddenly immersed, by hoarse
curses, which could be heard above the splash and roar of
the noisy water. These men (headed by Surgeon Bronson)
chilled and benumbed, were sent back to the camp to " dry
their ammunition." (?) After passing this locality — our
march thus far having alternated in snow and water — we ar-
rived, without being discovered, in sight of the smoke of
their camp-fires, where we halted for a short rest.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 41

Major Savage gave some orders to Captain Boling which
were not then understood by me. On again resuming oiir
march, the Major, with " Bob," started at a rapid step, while
the others maintained a slow gait.

I followed the Major as I had been accustomed during the
march. I soon heard an audible smile^ evidently at my ex-
pense. I comprehended that I had somehow "sold" my-
self, but as the Major said nothing, I continued my marcli.
I observed a pleased expression in the Major's countenance,
and a twinkle of his eyes when he glanced back at me as if
he enjoyed the fun of the "boys ' behind us, while he
increased his speed to an Indian jog-trot. I determined to
appear as unconscious, as innocent of my blunder, and ac-
commodate my gait to his movements. My pride or vanity
was touched, and I kept at his heels as he left the trot for a
more rapid motion. After a run of a mile or more, we
reached the top of a narrow ridge which overlooked the vil-
lage. The Major here cast a side glace at me as he threw
himself on the ground, saying: "I alwa3^s prided myself on
my endurance, but somehow this morning my bott( m fails
me." As quietly as I could I remarked that he had prob-
ably been traveling faster than he was aware of, as "Bob"
must be some way behind us. After a short scrutiny of my
unconcerned innocence, he burst into a low laugh and said:
"Bunnell, you play it well, and you have beaten me at a
game of my own choosing. I have tested your endurance,
however; such qualifications are really valuable in our pres-
ent business." He then told me as I seated niys'lf near
him, that he saw I had not understood the order, and had
•increased his speed, thinking I would drop back and wait
for the others to come up, as he did not wish to order me
back, although he had preferred to make this scout alone
with "Bob," as they were both acquainted with the band
and the region they occupy. While we were resting '' Bob "

42 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

came up. The Major gave him some direction in an Indian
dialect I did not understand, and he moved on to an adjoin-
ing thicket, while the Major and myself crawled to the
shelter of a bunch of blue brush (California lilac), just
above where we had halted.

After obtaining the desired information without being
seen, Bob was sent back to Captain Boling to "hurry him
up." While awaiting the arrival of our command, I, in
answer to his inquiries, informed the Major that I had
come to Detroit, Michigan, in 1833, when it was but little
more than a frontier village; that the Indians annually
assembled there and at Maiden, Canada, to receive their
annuities. At that time, being but nine years of age, and
related to Indian traders, I was brought in contact with
their customers, and soon learned their language, habits and
character, which all subsequent attempts to civilize me had
tailed entirely to eradicate. This statement evidently
pleased the Major, and finding me familiar with frontier
life, he continued his conversation, and I soon learned that
I was acquainted with some of his friends in the l^orth-
west. I have related this incident because it was the begin-
ning of an intimate friendship which ever afterward existed
between us.

On the arrival of Captains Boling and Dill with their
respective companies, we were deployed into skirmish line,
and advanced toward the encampment without any effort
at concealment. On discovering us the Indians hurriedly
ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course to pursue. See-
ing an unknown force approaching, they threw up their
hands in token of submission, crying out at the same time
in Spanhh, ^' Face/ pace/ ^^ (peace! peace!) We were at
once ordered to halt while Major Savage went forward to
arrange for the surrender. The Major was at once recognized
and cordially received by such of the band as he desired to

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

confer with officially. We found the village to be that of
Pon-wat-chee, a chief of the Noot-chii tribe, whose people
had formerly worked for Savage under direction of Cow-
chit-tv, his brother, and from whose tribe Savage had taken
Ee-e-ke-no, one of his former wives. The chief professed
still to entertain feelings of friendship for Savage, saying that
he was now willing to obey his counsels. Savage, in re-
sponse, lost no time in preliminary affairs.

lie at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and
his requirements. His terms were promptly agreed to, and
before we had time to examine the captives or their wig-
wams, they had commenced packing tlieir supplies and re-
moving their property from their bark huts. This done,
the torch was applied by the Indians themselves, in token
of their sincerity in removing to the Keservations on the
Fresno.

By the Major's orders they had at once commenced their
preparations for removal to a rendezvous, which he had se-
lected nearly opposite this encampment, which was accessi-
ble to horses. This plateau was also the location designated
for our camp. This camp was afterwards used by an
employe at the agency, whose name was Bishop, and was
known as Bishop's Camp. It is situated on an elevated
table, on the right side of the valley of the South Fork.

"While the Indians were preparing for their transfer to
the place selected, our tired and hungry men began to feel
the need of rest and refreshments. We had traveled a
much longer distance since the morning before than had
been estimated in expectation of a halt, and many of the
men had not tasted food since the day before.

John Hankin told Major Savage that if a roast dog could
be procured, he would esteem it an especial lavor. Bob
McKee thought this a capital time to learn to eat acorn
bread, but after trying some set before him by "a young

44 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

and accomplished squaw," as the Major cynically termed
her, concluded he was not yet hungry enough for its enjoy
ment.

A call was made for volunteers to go back to bring up
the reserve and supplies, but the service was not very
promptly accepted. McKee, myself and two others, how-
ever, offered to go with the order to move down to the se-
lected rendezvous. Three Indians volunteerd to go with us
as guides; one will seldom serve alone. We found the trail
on the right bank less laborious to travel than was expected,
for the snow had mostly disappeared from the loose, sandy
soil, which upon this side of the river has a southwesterly
exposure. On our. arrival in camp prej^arations were begun to
obey the order of the Major. Wh ile coffee was being prepared
Doctor Bronson wisely prescribed and most skillfully admin-
istered to us a refreshing draught of ''^Aqtia Ardente.'^^

After a hasty hreahfast^ we took to our saddles, and tak-
ing a supply of biscuits and cold meat, left the train and
arrived at the new camp ground just as our hungry com-
rades came up from the Indian village. The scanty sup-
plies, carried on our saddles, were thankfully received and
speedily disposed of. The Indians had not yet crossed the
river. We found that we had traveled about twelve miles,
while our comrades and the captives had accomplished only
three.

From this camp, established- as our headquarters, or as a
base of operations while in this vicinity. Major Savage
sent Indian runners to the bands ^vho were supposed to be
hiding in the mountains. These messengers were instruct-
ed to assure all the Indians that if they would go and make
treaties with the commissioners, they would there be fur-
nished with food and clothing, and receive protection, but
if they did not come in, he should make v/ar upon them
until he destroyed them all.

AND INDIAN WAR OF :1851. 45

Pon-wat-chee had told the Major when his own village
was captured, that a small band of Po-ho-no-chees were en-
camped on the sunny slope of the divide of the Merced,
and he having at once dispatched a runner to them, they
began to come into camp. This circumstance afforded en-
couragement to the Major, but Pon-wat-chee was not en-
tirely sanguine of success with the Yosemites, though he
told the Major that if the snow continued deep they could
not escape.

At first but few Indians came in, and these were very cau-
tious— dodging behind rocks and trees, as if fearful we would
not recognize their friendly signals.

Being fully assured by those who had already come in, of
friendly treatment, all soon came in who were in our imme-
diate vicinity. None of the Yosemites had responded to
the general message sent. Upon a special envoy being sent
to the chief, he appeared the next day in person. He came
alone, and stood in dignified silence before one of the guard,
until motioned to enter camp. He was immediately rec-
ognized by Pon-wat-chee as Ten-ie-j^a, the old chief of the
Yosemites, and was kindly cared fur — being well supplied
with food — after which, with tlie aid of the other Indians,
the Major informed him of the wishes of the commission-
ers. The old sachem was very suspicious of Savage, and
feared he was taking this method of getting the Yosemi-
tes into liis power for the purpose of revenging his per-
sonal wrongs. Savage told liim tliat if he would go to tlie
commissioners and make a treaty of peace with them, as the
other Indians were going to do, there woukl be no more
war. Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired as to the object of tak-
ing all the Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin valley,
and said: " My people do not want anything from the 'Great
Father' you tell me about. The Great Spirit is our father,
and he has always supplied us with all we need. We do

46 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

not want anything from white men. Our women are able
to do our work. Go, then; let us remain in the mountains
where we were born ; where the ashes of our fathers have
been given to the winds. I have said enough!"

This was abruptly answered by Savage, in Indian dialect
and gestures: "If you and your people have all you desire,
why do you steal our liorses and mules? Why do you rob
the miners' camps? Why do you murder the white men,
and plunder and burn their houses?"

Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he un-
derstood what Savage had said, for he replied: "My young
men have sometimes taken horses and mules from the
whites. It was wrong for them to do so. It is not wrong
to take the property of enemies, who have wronged my
people. My young men believed the white gold-diggers
were our enemies; we now know they are not, and we will
be glad to live in peace with them. We will stay here and
be friends. My people do not want to go to the plains.
The tribes who go there are some of them very bad. They
will make war on my people. We cannot live on the
plains with them. Here we can defend ourselves against
them."

In reply to this Savage very deliberately and firmly said:
"Your people must go to the Commissioners and make
terms with them. If they do not, your young men will
again steal our horses, your people will again kill and plun-
der the whites. It was your people who robbed my stores,
burned my houses, and murdered my men. If they do not
make a treaty, your whole tribe will be destroj^ed, not one
of them will be left alive." At this vigorous ending of the
Major's speech, the old chief replied: "It is useless to talk
to you about who destroyed your property and killed your
people. If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are
cowards, for they led us on. I am old and you can kill me

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 47

if you will, but what use to lie to you who know more than
all the Indians, and can beat them in their big liunts of
deer and bear. Therefore I will not lie to you, but promise
that if allowed to return to my people I will bring them in."
He was allowed to go. The next day he came back, and
said his people would soon come to our camp; that when
he had told them they could come with safety they were
willing to go and make a treaty with the men sent by the
"Great Father," who was so good and rich. Another day
passed, but no Indians made their appearance from the
" deep valley," spoken of so frequently by those at our camp.
The old chief said the snow was so deep that they could not
travel fast, that his village was so far down (gesticulating,
by way of illustration, with his hands) that when the snow
was deep on the mountains they would be a long time climb-
ing out of it. As we were at the time having another storm
Ten-ie-ya's explanation was accepted, but was closely watch-
ed.

The next day passed without their coming, although the
snow storm had ceased during the night before. It was
then decided tliat it would be necessary to go to tlie village
of the Yosemites, and bring them in; and in case they
could not be found there, to follow to their hiding-places in
the deep canon, so often represented as sucli a dangerous
locality. Ten-ie-ya was questioned as to the route and the
time it would take his people to come in; and when he
learned we were going to his village, he represented that
the snow was so deep that the horses could not go through it.
He also stated that the rocks were so steep that our horses
could not climb out of the valley if they should go into it.
Captain Boling caused Ten-ie-ya's statements to be made
known to his men. It was customary in all of our expeditions
where the force was divided, to call for volunteers. The men
were accordingly drawn up into line, and the call made that

48 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

all who wished to go to the village of the Yosemites were to
step three paces to the front. When the order to advance was
given, to the surprise of Captains Boling and Dill, each com-
pany moved in line as if on parade. The entire body had vol-
unteered. As a camp-guard was necessary, a call was then
made for volunteers for this duty. When the word " march "
was again repeated, but a limited number stepped to the
front. Captain Boling, with a smile on his good-natured
face, said: "A camp-guard will have to be provided in some
way. I honor the sentiment that prompted you all to vol-
unteer for the exploration, and I also appreciate the sacrifice
made by those who are willing to stay; but these are too
few. Our baggage, supplies and Indian captives must be
well guarded. I endeavored to make the choice of duty
voluntary, by representing the difficulties that might rea-
sonably be expected, and thus secure those best suited for
the respective duty of field and camp. I am baffled, but not
defeated, fori have another test of your fitness; it is a foot-
race. You know it has been represented to us by Ten-ie-ya
that the route to his village is an extremely difficult one, and
impassable for our horses. It may not be true, but it will
be prudent to select men for the expedition who have proved
their endurance and fleetness, I now propose that you de-
cide what I have found so difficult."

This proposition was received with shouts of laughter, and
the arrangements for the contest were at once commenced,
as it aflforded a source of frolicsome amusement. A hun-
dred yards were paced oflP, and the goal conspicuously
marked. A distance line was to determine who should con-
stitute the camp-guard. I doubt if such boisterous hilarity
and almost boyish merriment was ever before seen while
making a detail from any military organization.

The Indians were at first somewhat alarmed at the noisy
preparations, and began to be fearful of their safety, but on

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 49

learning the cause of the excitement, they, too, became in-
terested in the proceedings, and ex])ressed a desire to par-
ticipate in the race. Two or tliree were allowed to join in
as proxies for the " heavy ones " who concluded not to run,
though willing to pay the yonng Indians to represent them
in the r;ice, ])rovided they came out ahead. One young In-
dian did bent eveiy man, except Bob McKee, for whom he
manifested great admiration. Many anxious ones ran bare-
footed in the snow. The Indian's motions were not impeded
by any civilized garments; a modest waist cloth was all
they had on. In subsequent races, after a long rest, several
of our men demonstrated that their racing powers were su-
perior to the fastest of the Indian runners. Captain Bo-
ling's racing scheme brought out the strong points of the
runners. Enough were distanced in both companies to se-
cure an ample camp-guard. The envious guard raised the
point that this method of detail was simply a proof of legs,
not brains. It was reported in camp that Captain Boling
had kept a record of the speedy ones which he had tiled away
for future use in cases where fleetness of foot would be re-
quired for extra duties.

Preparations were made for an early start the next mor-
ning. The officer to be left in charge of the camp was in-
structed to allow the Indians all liberty consistent with
safety^ and to exercise no personal restraint over them un-
less there should be an evident attempt to leave in a body;
when, of course, any movement of the kind was to be de-
feated. The Major said: "I deem tlie presence of the wo-
men and children a sufficient hostage for the peaceful con-
duct of the men, but do not allow any of them to enter our
tents, or we may lose possession."

This last injunction was to guard against annoyance from
vermin. The pediculi of the Indian race have an especial
affinity for them. White people have but little to fear from
4

•

50 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Indian vermin except the temporary annoyance that is ex-
perienced from some species that infest animals and birds.
They do not find the transfer congenial, and soon disappear.
This fact may not be generally known, bnt I believe it to
be a normal arrangement for the exclusive comfort of the
Indian.

To me this is quite suggestive, when considered as evi-
dence of a diversity of origin of the races. I have been
very particular in my observations in this matter, and have
compared my own with the experiences of others, and have
been led to the conclusion that each separate race has para-
sites indigenous to that race, although the genus may be
common to each.

This reluctant adaptability of these " entomological in-
conveniences" saved us from one of the curses of the an-
cient Egyptians, when contact was unavoidable.

As no information had been received from the camp of
the Yosemites, after an early breakfast, the order was passed
to " fall in," and when the order '' march " was given, we
moved otf in single file, Savage leading, with Ten-ie-ya as
guide.

From the length of time taken by the chief to go and
return from his encampment, it was supposed that with
horses, and an early start, we should be able to go and re-
turn the same day, if for any cause it should be deemed
desirable, although sufficient supplies were taken, in case
of a longer delay.

While ascending to the divide between the South Fork
and the main Merced we found but little snow, but at the
divide, and beyond, it was from three to five feet in depth,
and in places much deeper. The sight of this somewhat
cooled our ardor, but none asked for a '-'furlough.-^

To somewhat equalize the laborious duties of making a
trail, each man was required to take liis turn in front.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 51

The leader of the column was frequently changed; no horse
or mule could long endure the fatigue without relief. To ef-
fect this, the tired leader dropped out of line, resigning his
position to his followers, taking a place in the rear, on the
beaten trail, exemplifying, that "the first shall be last, and
the last shall be first." The snow packed readily, so that a
very comfortable trail was left in the rear of our column.

Old Ten-ie-ya relaxed the rigidity of his bronze features,
in admiration of our method of making a trail, and assured
us, that, notwithstanding the depth of snow, we would soon
reach his village. We had in our imaginations pictured
it as in some deep rocky canon in the mountains.

While in camp the frantic efforts of the old chief to de-
scribe the location to Major Savage, had resulted in the
unanimous verdict among the " boys," who were observing
him, that "it must be a devil of a place." Feeling encour-
aged by the hope that we should eoon arrive at the residen-
ces of his Satanic majesty's subjects, we wallowed on, alter-
nately becoming the object of a joke, as we in turn were ex-
tricated from the drifts. When we had traversed a little
more than half the distance, as was afterwards proved, we
met the Yosemites on their way to our rendezvous on the
South Fork.

As they filed past us, the major took acconnt of their
number, which was but seventy-two. As the}^ reached our
beaten trail, satisfaction w^as variously expressed, by grunts
from the men, by the low rippling laughter from the squaws,
and by the children clapping their hands in glee at the
sight. On being asked where the others of his band were,
the old Sachem said, "This is all of my people that are wil-
ling to go with me to the plains. Many that have been
with me are from other tribes. They have taken wives
from my band ; all have gone with their wives and children
to the Tuolumne and to the Monos." Savage told Ten-ie-

52 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ja that he was telling him that which was not true. The
Indians could not cross the mountains in the deep snow,
neither could tliej go over the divide of the Tuolumne.
Tliat he knew they were still at his village or in hiding
places near it. Ten-ie-ya assured the major he was telling
him the truth, and in a very solemn manner declared that
none of his band had been left behind — that all had gone
before his people had left. His people had not started
before because of the snow storm.

With a belief that but a small part of Ten-ei-ya's band
was with this party. Major Savage decided to go on to the
Indian village and ascertain if any others could be found or
traces of them discovered. This decision was a satisfactory
one and met with a hearty approval as it was reported
along the line.

This tribe had been estimated by Pon-wat-chee and Cow-
chit-tee, as numbering more than two handred; as about
that number usually congregated when they met together
to ''''cache''' their acorns in the valley, or for a grand an-
nual hunt and drive of game; a custom which secured an
abundant supply for the feast that followed.

At other times they were scattered in bands on the sun-
ny slopes of the ridges, and in the mountain glens. Ten-ie-
ya had been an unwilling guide thus far, and Major Savage
said to him: " You may return to camp with your people,
and I will take one of your young men with me. There
are but few of your people here. Your tribe is large. I
am going to your village to see your people, who will not
come with you. They will come with me if I find
them."

Savage then selected one of the young " braves " to ac-
company him. Ten-ie-ya replied, as the young Indian
stepped forward by his direction, " I will go with my people;
my young man shall go with you to mj^ village. You will

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 53

not find any people there. I do not know where they are.
My tribe is snia^l — not large, as the white chief has said.
The Pai-utes and Mono's are all gone. Many of the people
with my tribe are irom western tribes that have come to
me and do not wish to return. If they go to the plains and
are seen, they will be killed by the friends of those with
whom they had quarreled. I have talked with my people
and told them I was going to see the white chiefs sent to
make peace. I was told that I was growing old, and it was
well that I should go, but that young and strong men can
find plenty in the mountains; therefore why should they
go? to be yarded like horses and cattle. My heart has been
sore since that talk, but I am now willing to go, for it is
best for my people that I do so."

The Major listened to the old Indian's volubility for
awhile, but interrupted him with a cheering "Forward
march!" at which the impatient command moved briskly
forward over the now partly broken trail, leaving the chief
alone, as his people had already gone on.

We found the traveling much less laborious than before,
,and it seemed but a short time after we left the Indians
before we suddenly came in full view of the valley in
which was the village, or rather the encampments of
the Yosemities. The immensity of rock I had seen in my
vision on the Old Bear Yalley trail from Kidley's Ferry
was here presented to my astonished gaze. The mystery
of that scene was here disclosed. My awe was increased by
this nearer view. The face of the immense cliff was shad-
owed by the declining sun; its outlines only had been seen
at a distance. This towering mass

" Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great,
Defies at first our Nature's littleness,
Till, growing with (to) its growth, we thus dilate
Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate.'*

u

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMfTE,

That stupendous cliff is now known as "El Capitan "
(the Captain), and the plateau from which we had our first
view of the valley, as Mount Beatitude.

It has been said that " it is not easy to describe in words

the precise impressions which
great objects make upon us."
I cannot describe how com-
pletely I realized this truth.
None but those who have vis-
ited this most wonderful val-
ley, can even imagine the feel-
ings with which I looked upon
the view that was there pre-
sented. The grandeur of the
ti|i|^^'scene was but softened by the
yf\ haze that hung over the val-
ley,— light as gossamer — and
by the clouds which partially
dimmed the higher cliffs and
II mountains. This obscurity of
vision but increased the awe
with which I beheld it, and as
I looked, a peculiar exalted
sensation seemed to fill my whole
I being, and I found my eyes in tears
;|with emotion.

During many subsequent visits to
this locality, this sensation was never
again so fully aroused. It is prob-
able that the shadows fast clothing all
before me, and the vapory clouds
at the head of the valley, leaving the view beyond still unde-
fined, gave a weirdness to the scene, that made it so impres-
sive; and the conviction that it was utterly indescribable

EL CAPITAN.
(3,300 feet in height.)

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 55

added strength to the emotion. It is not possible for the
same intensity of feeling to be aroused more than once by
the same object, although I never looked upon these scenes
except with wonder and admiration.

Richardson, in his admirable work, "Beyond the Missis-
sippi," says: "See Yosemite and die! I sliall not attempt
to describe it; the subject is too large and my capacity too
small. * * * Painfully at first these stupendous walls
confuse the mind. By degrees, day after day, the sight of
them clears it, until at last one receives a just impression
of their solemn immensity. ^ * * Yolumes ought to
be and will be written about it."

Mr. Richardson has expressed in graphic language the
impressions produced upon nearly all who for the first time
behold this wonderful valley. The public has now, to a cer-
tain degree, been prepared for these scenes.

They are educated by the descriptions, sketches, photo-
graphs and masterly paintings of Hill and Bierstadt;
whereas, on our first visit, our imagination had been mis-
led by the descriptive misrepresentations of savages, whose
prime object was to keep us from their safe retreat, until
we had expected to see some terrible abyss. The reality so
little resembled the picture of imagination, that my aston-
ishment was the more overpowering.

To obtain a more distinct and quiet view, I had left the
trail and \nj horse and wallowed through the snow alone to
a projecting granite ruck. So interested was I in the scene
before me, that I did not observe that my comrades had all
moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed alone. My
situation attracted the attention of Major Savage, — who
was riding in rear of column, — who hailed me from the
trail below with, "you had better wake up from that dream
up there, or you may lose your hair ; I have no faith in
Ten-ie-ya's statement that there are no Indians about here.

56 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

\Ye had better be moving; some of the murdering devils
may be lurking along this trail to pick off stragglers." I
hurriedly joined the Major on the descent, and as other
views presented themselves, I said with some enthu-
siasm, " If my hair is now required, I can depart in peace,
for I have here seen the power and glory of a Supreme
being; the majesty of Ilis handy-work is in that 'Testi-
mony of the Eocks.' That mute appeal — pointing to El
Capitan — illustrates it, with more convincing eloquence
than can the most powerful arguments of surpliced priests.''
" Hold up. Doc ! you are soaring too high forme; and per-
haps for yourself. This is rough riding ; we had better
mind this devilish trail, or we shall go soaring over some
of these slippery rocks." We, however, made the descent
in safety. When we overtook the others, we found blazing
tires started, and preparations commenced to provide supper
for the hungry command; w4iile the light-hearted "boys"
were indulging their tired horses with the abundant grass
found on the meadow near by, which was but lightly cov-
ered with snow.

Mr. J. M. Hutchings has recently cited Elliott's History
of Fresno Connty and dispatches from Major Savage as
proof that it was May 5th or 6th, 1851, that the Mariposa
Battalion first entered the Yosemite, As a matter of
fact, our adjutant was not with us when the discovery was
made in March, nor was there ever but two companies
in the Yosemite at any time, Boling's and part of Dill's.
Captain Dill himself was detailed for duty at the Fresno,
after the expedition in March, as was also the adjutant.
In making out his report, Mr. Lewis must have ignored
the first entry of tlie valley by the few men who discovered
it, and made his first entry to appear as the date of the
discovery. This may or may not have been done to give
impoitaiice to the operations of the battalion. I have
never seen the report.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

CHAPTER lY.

Naming- the Valley — Sig-nification and Orio^in of the Word — Tts proper
Pronunciation: Yo-sera-i-ty — Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te— His
Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te.

My d voiit astoTiisliment at the supreme grandeur of tlie
scenery by which I was surrounded, continued to engross
my mind. The warmth of the fires and preparations for
supper, however, awakened in me other sensations, which
rapidly dissipated my excitement. As we rode up, Major
Savage remarked to Capt. Boling, " We liad better move on
up, and hunt out the "Grizzlies" before w^e go into camp
for the niglit. We shall yet have considerable time to look
about this hole before dark." Captain Boling then reported
that the young guide had halted here, and poured out
a volley of Indian lingo which no one could understand,
and had given a negative shake of his head when the course
was pointed out, and signs were made for him to move on.
The Captain, not comprehending this performance, had fol-
lowed the trail of the Indians to the bank of the stream
near by, but had not ventured furtlier, thinking it best to
wait for Major Savage to come up. After a few inquiries,
the Major said there was a ford below, where the Indians
crossed the Merced; and that he would go with the guide
and examine it. Major Savage and Captains Boling and
Dill then started down to the crossing. They soon re-
turned, and we were ordei-ed to arrange our camp for the
night. Captain Boling said the Merced was too high to

58 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

ford. The river had swollen during the day from the melt-
ing of the snow, but would fall again by morning.

The guide had told the Major there was no other way up
the valley, as it was impossible to pass the rocks on the
south side of the stream. From this, it was evident the
Major had never before seen the valley, and upon inquiry,
said so. One of our best men, Tunnehill, who had been
listening to what the Captain was saying, very positively
remarked : *'I have long since learned to discredit every-
thing told by an Indian. I never knew one to tell the
truth. This imp of Satan has been lying to the Major, and
to me his object is very transparent. He knows a better
ford than the one below us." A comrade laughingly ob-
served : " Perhaps you can find it for the Major, and help
him give us an evening ride; I have had all the exercise I
need to-day, and feel as hungry as a wolf." Without a
reply, Tunnehill mounted his litcle black mule and left at
a gallop. He returned in a short time, at the same rapid
gate, but was in a sorry plight. The mule and rider had
unexpectedly taken a plunge bath in the ice-cold waters of
the Merced. As such mishaps excited but little sympathy,
Tunnehill was greeted with : " Hallo 1 what's the matter,
comrade?" "Where do you get your washing done?"
"Been trying to cool off that frisky animal, have you?"
" Old Ten-ie-ya's Canon is not in as hot a place as we sup-
posed, is it?" "How about the reliability of the Indian
race?" To all these bantering jokes, though in an uncom-
fortable plight, Tunnehill, with great good nature, replied :
" I am all right ! I believe in orthodox immersion, but this
kind of baptism has only confirmed me in previous convic-
tions." The shivering mule was rubbed, blanketed, and
provided for, before his master attended to his own com-
fort, and then we learned that, in his attempt to explore a
way across the Merced, his mule was swept off its feet, and

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

59

both were carried for some distance down the raging tor-
rent.

After Slipper, guards stationed, and the camp fires plen-
tifnllj provided for, we-gatliered around
the burning logs of oak and pine, found
near our camp. Tlie hearty supper and
cheerful blaze created a general good

'^i^^4^^

"^^r

BRIDAL VEIL FALL.
(630 feet in height.)

feeling. Social converse and anecdotes — mingled with jokes
— were freely exchanged, as we enjoyed the solace of our pipes
and wanned ourselves preparatory to seeking further refresli-
ment in sleep. While thus engaged, I retained a full con-

60 DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,

scioiisness of our locality; for being in close proximity to
tlie huge cliff that had so attracted my attention, my mind
was frequently drawn away from my comrades. After the
jollity of the camp had somewhat subsided, the valley be-
came the topic of conversation around our camp fire. E'one
of us at that time, surmised the extreme vastness of those
cliffs; although before dark, we had seen El Capitan look-
ing down upon our camp, while the " Bridal Yeil'- was
being wafted in the breeze. Many of us felt the mysterious
grandeur of the scenery, as defined by our limited opportu-
nity to study it. I had — previous to my descent with the
]\Xajor— observed the towering height above us of the old
"Kock Chief,'- and noticing the length of the steep descent
into the valley, had at least some idea of its solemn im-
mensity.

It may appear sentimental, but the coarse jokes of the
careless, and the indifference of the practical, sensibly jarred
my more devout feelings, while this subject was a matter
of general conversation; as if a sacred subject had been
ruthlessly profaned, or the visible power of Deity disre-
firarded. After relatins: mv observations from the " Old
Bear Yalley Trail," I suggested that this valley should have
an appropriate name by which to designate it, and in a tone
of pleasantry, said to Tunnehill, who was drying his wet
clothing by our fire, " You are the first white man that ever
received any form of baptism in this valley, arid you should
be considered the proper person to give a baptismal name
to the valley itself." He replied, " If whisky can be pro-
vided for such a ceremony, I shall be happy to participate;
but if it is to be another cold water affair, I have no desire
to take a hand. I have done enough in that line for to-
night." Timely jokes and ready repartee for a time changed
the subject, but in the lull of this exciting pastime, some
one remarked, " I like Bunnell's suggestion of giving this

AXD INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 61

valley a name, and to-night is a good time to do it." "All
right — if yon have got one, show yonr liaiid," was tlie re-
sponse of another. Different names were proposed, but
none were satisfactory to a majority of onr circle. Some
romantic and foreign names were offei'ed, but I observed
that a very large number were canonical and Scripture
names. From this I inferred that I was not the only one
in whom religious emotions or thoughts had been aroused
by the mysterious power of the surrounding scenery.

As T did not take a fancy to any of the names ])roposed,
I remarked that "an American name would be the most
appropriate; " that " I could not see any necessity for going
to a foreign country for a name for American scenery — the
grandest that had ever yet been looked upon. That it would
be better to give it an Indian name than to import a strange
and inexpressive one; that the name of the tribe who had
occupied it, would be more appropriate than any I had
heard suggested." I then proposed " that we give the
valley the name of Yo-sem-i-ty, as it was suggestive, eu-
phonious, and certii'] n\y Amerlca7i; that by so doing, the
name of the tribe of Indians which we met leaviuir their
homes in tliis valley, perhaps never to return, would beper-
•etuated." I was here interrupted by Mr. Tunnehill, who
tiipariently exchiimed: "Devil take the Indians and their
:anies! Why should we honor these vagabond murderers
>y perpetuating their name? " Another said: " I agree with

rnntiehill; the Indians and their names. Mad An-

hony's plan for me! Let's call this Paradise Valley." In
reply, I said to the last speaker, "Still, for a young man
with such religious tendencies they would be good objects
'»n which to develop your Christianity." Unexpectedly, a
earty laugh was raised, which broke U]) further discus
>ion, and before opportunity was given for any others to
object to the name, John O'Neal, a rollicking Texan of

62 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Capt. Boling's company, vociferously announced to the
wliole camp the subject of our discussion, by saying, " Hear
ve! Hear ye! Hear ye! A vote will now be taken to decide
what name shall be given to this valley." The question of
giving it the name of Yo-sem-i-ty was then explained; and
upon a viva voce vote being taken, it was almost unani-
mously adopted. The name that was there and thus adopted
by us, while seated around our camp fires, on the tirst visit
of a white man to this remarkable locality, is the name by
which it is now known to tlie world.

At the time I proposed this name, the signification of it
(a grizzly bear) was not generally known to our battalion,
although " the grizzlies " was frequently used to designate
this tribe. Neither w^as it pronounced with uniformity. For
a correct pronunciation. Major Savage was our best author-
ity, tie could speak the dialects of most of the mountain
tribes in this part of California, but he confessed that he
could not readily understand Ten-ie-ya, or the Indian guide,
as they appeared to speak a Pai-ute jargon.

Major Savage checked the noisy demonstrations of our
"Master of Ceremonies," but approvingly participated in
our proceedings, and told us that the name w^as Yo-sem-i-ty,
as pronounced by Ten-ie-ya, or 0-soom-i-ty, as pronounced
by some other bands; and that it signified a full-grown griz-
zly bear. He further stated, that the name was given to
old Ten-ie-ya's band, because of their lawless and predatory
character.

As I had observ^ed that the different tribes in Mariposa
County diftered somewhat in the pronunciation of this
name, I asked an explanation of the fact. With a smile
and a look, as if he suspected I was quizzing him, the
Major replied : "They only difier, as do the Swedes, Danes
and Norwegians, or as in the different Shires of England;
but you know well enough how similar in sound words may

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 63

be of entirely different meaning, and how much depends
on accent. I have found this to be the greatest difficulty a
learner has to contend with."

After the name had been decided upon, the Major nar-
rated some of his experiences in the use of the general
"sign language" — as a Eocky Mountain man — and his
practice of it when he first came among the California
Indians, until he had acquired their language. The Major
regarded the Kah-we-ah, as the parent language of the
San-Joaquin Yalley Indians, while that in use by the
other mountain tribes in their vicinity, were but so many
dialects of Kah-we-ah, the Pai-ute and more JSTorthern
tribes. When we sought our repose, it was with feelings
of quiet satisfaction that I wrapped myself in my blankets,
and soundly slept.

I consider it proper, to digress somewhat from a regular
narrative of the incidents of our expedition, to consider
some matters relative to the name '' Yosemity." This was
the form of orthography and pronunciation originally in
use by our battalion. Lieutenant Moore, of the U. S. A.
in his report of an expedition to the Yalley in 1852, substi-
tuted e as the terminal letter, in place of y, in use by us;
no doubt thinking the use of e more scholarly, or perhaps
supposing Yosemite to be of Spanish derivation. This
orthography has been adopted, and is in general use, but
the proper pronunciation, as a consequence, is not always
attainable to the general reader.

Sometime after the name had been adopted, I learned
from Major Savage that Ten-ei-ya repudiated the name for
the Yalley, but proudly acknowledged it as the designation
of his band, claiming that " when he was a young chief,
this name had been selected because they occupied the
mountains and valleys which were the favorite resort of
the Grizzly Bears, and because his people were expert in

64 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

killing them. Tliat his tribe had adopted the name because
those who had bestowed it were afraid of ' the Grizzlies'
and feared his band."

It was traditionary with the other Indians, that the band
to which the name Yosemite had been given, had originally
been formed and was then composed of outlaws or refugees
from other tribes. That nearly all were descendants of the
neighboring tribes on both sides of "Kay-o-pha," or " Skye
Mountains/^ the " High Sierras."

Ten-ie-ya was asked concerning this tradition, and re-
sponded rather loftily: "I am the descendant of an Ah-
wah-ne-chee chief. His people lived in the mountains and
valley where my people have lived. The valley was then
called Ah-wah-nee. Ah-wah-ne-chee signifies the dwellers
in Ahwahnee.".

I afterwards learned the traditional history of Ten-ie-ya's
ancestors. His statement was to the effect, that the Ah-
wah-ne-chees had many years ago been a lai-ge tribe, and
lived in territory now claimed by him and his people.
That by wars, and a fatal black-sickness (probably small-
pox or measles), nearly all had been destroyed. Tlie survi-
vors of the band fied from the valley and joined other
tribes. For years afterward, the country was uninhabited;
but few of the extinct tribe ever visited it, and from a
superstitious fear, it was avoided. Some of his ancestors
had gone to the Mono tribe and been adopted by them.
His father had taken a wife from that tribe. His mother
was a Mono woman, and he had lived with her people while
young. Eventually, Ten-ie-ya, with some of his fatlier's tribe
had visited the valley, and claimed it as their birth-right.
He thus became the founder of the new tribe or band,
which has since been called the " Yosemite."

It is very probable that the statement of Major Savage,
as to the origin of the name as aj) pi i cable to Ten-ie-ya's

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 65

band, was traditional with his informants, but I give credit,
to Ten-ie-ya's own history of his tribe as most probable.

From my knowledge of Indian customs, I am aware that
it is not uncommon for them to change the names of per-
sons or localities after some remarkable event in the history
of either. It would not, tlierefore, appear strange that Ten-
ie-ya should have adopted another name for his band. I
was unable to lix upon any definite date at which the Ah-
wah-ne-chees became extinct as a tribe, but from tlie fact
that some of the Yosemites claimed to be direct descend-
ants, the time could not have been as long as would be in-
ferred from their descriptions. When these facts were
communicated to Captain Boling, and Ali-wah-ne was as-
certained to be the classical name, the Captain said that
name was all right enough for liistory or poetry, but that
we could not now change the name Yosemite, nor was it
desirable to do so. I made every etlbrt to ascertain the sig-
nification of Ah-wali-ne, but could never fully satisfy my-
self, as I received diiferent interpretations at different times.
In endeavoring to ascertain from T^n-ie-ya his explanation
of the name, he, b}^ the motion of his hands, indicated de])th,
while trying to illustrate the name, at the same time ])lnck-
ing grass which he held up before me. From .he e ''.s/ v/.v '"
I inferred that it must mean the deep ii"i':i:~>y valley :v !!,
it may not mean that. Sandino was unahle to gi\ c iKs tnie
signification, saying by way of ex])lanation that A li-w li-
ne was a name of the old tribe, that he d(l not kn<'\\ . o\v
to translate. Major Savai^e also said that Ten-ie-ya a;id a
few of the old Indians in his band used words which he did
not full}^ understand, and which the others could neitiier
use nor explain.

The dialect of the Yosemites was a composite of that of
almost every tribe around them; and even words of Spanish
derivation were discovered in their conversations.
5

6Q DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,

It is not uncommon for tlie mountain men and traders,
to acquire a mixed jargon of Indian dialects, which they
mingle with Spanish, French or English in their talk to an
extent sometimes amusing. The Indians readily adopt
words from this lingo, and learn to Anglicize Indian names
in conversation with " Americans." This, when done by
the Mission Indians, who perhaps have already made efforts
to improve the Indian name with Mission Spanish, tends
to mislead the inquirer after "j^z^re" Indian names.

The Mission Indians after deserting, introduced and ap-
plied Spanish names to objects that already had Indian
designations, and in this way, new words are formed from
corrupted Mission Spanish, that may lead to wrong inter-
pretations. I learned from Knssio, the chief interpreter,
that sometimes more than one word was used to express the
same object, and often one word expressed different objects.
As an illustration of corrupted Spanish that passes for In-
dian, the words Oya (olla) and Hoya, may be taken. Oya
signifies a water pot, and Hoya, a pit hole. From these
words the Mission Indians have formed " Loj-a," which is
used to designate camp grounds where holes in the rocks
may be found near, in which to pulverize acorns, grass
seeds, &c., as w^ell as to the " Sentinal Rock," from its fan-
cied resemblance to a water pot, or long water basket.
Another source of ditficulty, is that of representing by
written characters the echoing gutteral sounds of some In-
dian words. While being aware of this, I can safely assert
that Yosemite, is purer and better Indian than is Missis-
sippi, (" Me-ze-se-be," the river that runs every where; that
is, *•' Endless rivei-) or many other names that are regarded
as good if not pure Indian.^

* According to the Rev. S. G. Wright, of Leach Lake, Minnesota Res-
ervation, and '^ Wain- ding''' (the source of the wind), the best interpreters
of the Chippewa perhaps now living, but few, if any, of the Chippewa
names for our lakes and rivers have been preserved in their purity.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 67

Our interpreters were, or had been, Mission Indians, who
rendered the dialects into as good Spanish as they had at
command, but rather than fail in their office, for want of
words, they would occasionally insert one of their own
coining. This was done, regardless of the consequences,
and when chided, declared it was for our benefit they had
done so.

Attempts were made to supersede the name we had given
the valley, by substituting some fancied improvements. At
first, I supposed these to be simply changes rung on Yose-
mite, but soon observed the earnestness of the sponsors in
advocating the new names, in their magazine and news-
paper articles. They claimed to have acquired tlie correct
name from their Indian guides, employed on their visits to
the Yosemite.

In 1855 Mr. J. M. Hutchings, of San Francisco, visited
the Yosemite, and published a description of it, and also
published a lithograph of the Yosemite Fall. Through his
energetic efforts, the valley was more fully advertised. He
ambitiously gave it the name of Yo-Hamite, and tenaciously
adhered to it for some time ; though Yosemite had already
crystalized.

The Rev. Doctor Scott, of San Francisco, in a newspaper
article — disappointing to his admirers — descriptive of his
travels and sojourn there, endeavored to dispossess both
Mr. Hutchings and myself of our names, and named the
valley Yo- Amite : probably as a jpeace offering to us
both.

I did not at first consider it good policy to respond to
these articles. I had no desire to engage in a newspaper
controversy with such influences against me; but after so-
licitations from Mr. Ayers, and other friends, I gave tlie
facts upon which were based editorials in the " California
Ciironicle," " Sacramento Union," the Mariposa and other
papers.

68 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

Bj invitation of Mr. Hntchings, I had a personal inter-
view with him in San Francisco, relative to this matter, and
at his request furnished some of the incidents connected
with our expedition against the Indians, as hereinbefore
narrated. These he published in his magazine, and after-
wards in his " Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in Cali-
fornia,"

This statement of facts was signed by myself, and certi-
fied to by two members of the State legislature — James M.
lioan and George H. Crenshaw — as follows: "We, the un-
dersigned, having been members of the same company, and
tlirough most of the scenes depicted by Doctor Bunnel',
liave no hesitation in saying that the article above is cor-
rect."

Mr. Hutchings says: *' We cheerfully give place to the
above communication, that the public may learn how and
by whom this remarkable valley was first visited and
named; and, although we have ditr'ered with the writer and
others concerning the name given, as explained in several
articles that have appeared at different times in the several
newspapers of the day, in which Yo-llamite was preferred;
yet as Mr. Bunnell was among the first to visit the valley.
we most willingly accord to him the right of giving it wh;.;
si^ever name he pleases."

Mr. llutcliin,s then goes on to explain how he obtained
tlie name Yo-llamite trum his Indian guide Kos-sum; that
its correctness was affirmed by John Hunt, previous to tin
publication of the lith()gra])h of the great falls, etc., and
during this explanation, says: ''Up to this time we ha^.
never heard or known any other name than Yosemite; "
and farther on in a manly way says: " Had we before known
that Doctor Ihnmell and his ])arty were the first whites
who ever entered ihc valley (although we have the honor of
being tliefimt in later years to visit it and call public at-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. G9

tention to it), we should long ago have submitted to the
name Doctor Bunnell had given it, as the discoverer of the
valley."

After my interview with Mr. Hatchings — for I had never
heard the word Yo-Hamite until it was published by him— r
I asked John Hunt, the Indian trader referred to, whei-e
he had got the word furnished to Mr. Hatchings. John,
with some embarrassment, said, that " Yo-IIem-i-te was the
way his Indians pronounced the name." I asked what
name? " Why, Yosemite," said John. But, I replied, you
know that the Indian name for the valley is Ah-wah-ne !
and the name given by us was the name of Ten-ie-ya's band 'i
"Of course, (said John,) but my Indians now apply the
word Yo-Hemite to the valley or the territory adjacent,
thouonh their name for a bear is Osoomity." John Hunt's
squaw was called, and asked by him the meaning of the
woi'd, but confessed her ignorance. Mr. Cunniniiham was
also consulted, but could give us no certain information ;
but surmised that the word had been derived from *'Le-
Hamite 'The Arrowwood.'" Another said poss bly from
"Heui-nock/' the Kah-we-ah word for God. As to Yo-
Amite, insisted on by Doctor Scott, I made no effort to find
an interpretation of it.

70 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

CHAPTER Y.

Date of Discovery— First White Visitors— Captain Joe Walker's State-
ment—Ten-ie-ya's Cunning— Indian Tradition— A lying Guide— The
Ancient Squaw — Destroying Indian Stores — Sweat-houses — The
Mourner's Toilet— Sentiment and Reality— Return to Head-quarters.

The date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite
was about the 21st of March, 1851. We were afterward
assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of his band, that this was
the first visit ever made to this valley by white men. Ten-
ie-ya said that a small party of white men once crossed the
mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to
see it; Appleton's and the People's Encyclopedias to the
contrary notwithstanding.^

It was to prevent the recurrence of such an event, that
Ten-ie-ya had consented to go to the commissioner's camp
and make peace, intending to return to his mountain home
as soon as the excitement from tlie recent outbreak subsid-
ed. The entrance to the Yalley had ever been carefully
guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band. As
a part of its traditionary history, it was stated: "That
when Ten-ie-ya left the tribe of his mother and went to
live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied by a very old Ah-

* Captain Joe Walker, for whom " Walker's Pass " is named, told me
that he once passed qu'te near the valley on one of his mountain trips;
but that his Ute and Mono guides gave such a dismal account of the
canons of both rivers, that he kept his course near to the divide until
reaching Bull Creek, he descended and went into camp, not seeing the
valley proper.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 71

wah-ne-chee, who had been the great * medicine man' of
his tribe."

It was through the influence of this old friend of his
father that Ten-ie-ja was induced to leave the Mono tribe,
and with a few of the descendants from the Ah-wah-nee-
chees, who had been living with the Monos and Pai-Utes,
to establish himself in the valley of his ancestors as their
chief. He was joined by the descendants from the Ah-wah-
ne-chees, and by others who had fled from their own tribes
to avoid summary Indian justice. The old " medicine man"
was the counselor of the young chief. ]^ot long before the
death of this patriarch, as if endowed with prophetic wis-
dom, he assured Ten-ie-ya that while he retained possession
of Ah-wah-ne his band would increase in numbers and be-
come powerful. That if he befriended those who sought
his protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to
make war upon him, or attempt to drive him from it, and
if he obeyed his counsels he would put a spell upon it that
would hold it sacred for him and his people alone; none
other would ever dare to make it their home. He then cau-
tioned the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands
(the Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter
Ah-wah-ne, his tribe would soon be scattered and destroyed,
or his people be taken captive, and he himself be the last
chief in Ah-wah-ne.

For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly
guarded his valley home, and all who sought his protection.
No one ventured to enter it, except by his permission; all
feared the " witches" there, and his displeasure. He had
"made war upon the white gold diggers to drive them
from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah-
wah-ne."

The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the
mountain tribes in this part of California; and the Ah-

72 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

wah-ne-chee and Mono members of it, were of finer build
and lighter color than those commonly called " California
Digger Indians." Even the " Dii>'gers " of the band, from
association and the better food and air afforded in the moun-
tains, had become superior to their inheritance, and as a
tribe, the Yosemites were feared by other Indians.

The superstitious fear of annihilation had, however, so
depressed the warlike ardor of Ten-ie-ya, who had now be-
come an old man, that he had decided to make efforts to
conciliate the Americans, rather than further resist their
occupancy of the mountains; as thereby, he hoped to save
his valley from intrusion. In spite of Ten-ie-ya's cunning,
the prophecies of the "old medicine" man have been
mostly fulfilled. White horsemen have entered Ali-wah-
ne; the tribe has been scattered and destroyed. Ten-ie-ya
was the last chief of his people. He was killed by the
chief of the Monos, not because of the prophecy; nor yet
because of our entrance into his territory, but in retribu-
tion for a crime against the Mono's hospitality. But I
must not, Indian like, tell the latter part of my story
first.

After an early breakfast on the morning following our
entrance into the Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty;
and as the word was passed to "fall in," we mounted and
filed down the trail to the lower ford, ready to commence
onr explorations.

The water in the Merced had fallen some during the
night, but the stream was still in appearance a raging tor-
rent. As we were about to cross, our guide with earnest
gesticulations asserted that the water was too deep to cross,
that if we attempted it, we would be swe])t down into the
canon. That later, we could cross without difficulty. These
assertions angered the Major, and he told the guide that he
lied ; for he knew that later in the day the snow would melt.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 73

Turning to Captain Boling he said: "I am now positive
that the Indians are in the vicinity, and for that reason the
guide would deceive us." Telling the young Indian to re-
main near his person, he gave the order to cross at once.

The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it
without serious difficulty, although several repeated their
morning ablutions while stumbling over the boulders.

The open ground on the north side was found free from
snow. The trail led toward ^' El Capitan," which had from
the first, been the particular object of my admiration.

At this time no distinctive names were known by which
to designate the clifi"s, waterfalls, or any of the especial ob-
jects of interest, and the imaginations of some ran wild in
search of appropriate ones. None had any but a limited
idea of the height of this cliff, and but few appeared con-
scious of the vastness of the granite wall before us; although
an occasional ejaculation betrayed the feelings which the
imperfect comprehension of the grand and wonderful exci-
ted. A few of us remarked upon the great length of time
required to pass it, and by so doing, probably arrived at
more or less correct conclusions regarding its size.

Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue
from a cluster of manzanita shrubs that commanded a view
of the trail. On examination, the smoking brands indicated
that it had been a picket fire, and we now felt assured that
our presence was knowm and our movements watched by the
vigilant Indians we were hoping to find. Moving rapidly
on, we discovered near the base of El Capitan, quite a large
collection of Indian huts, situated near Pigeon creek. On
making a hasty examination of the village and vicinity, no
Indians could be found, but from the generally undisturbed
condition of things usually found in an Indian camp, it was
evident that the occupants had but recently left; appear-
ances indicated that some of the wigwams or huts had been

74

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

occupied during tlie night Kot far from the camp, upon
posts, rocks, and in trees, was a large cache of acorns and
other })rovisions.

As the trail showed that it had been used bj Indians go-

IH tCO. PHOTO,

HALF DOME.

(4,737 feet in height.)

ing up, but a short halt was made. As we moved on, a
smoke was again seen in the distance, and some of the more
eager ones dashed ahead of the column, but as we reached
the ford to which we were led by the main trail leading to

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

76

the right, our dashing cavaliers rejoined us and again took
their places. These men reported that " fallen rocks " had
prevented their passage up on the nortli side, and that our
only course was to cross at the ford and follow the trail, as
the low lands appeared too wet for rapid riding. Recrossing
the Merced to the south-side, we found trails leading both
up and down the river. A detacliment was sent down to
reconnoitre tlie open Imd below, while the main column
pursued its course. The smoke we had seen was soon dis-
covered to be rising from another encampment nearly

KORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES.

(3,568 feet in height.)

south of the "Royal Arches;" and at the forks of the
Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, near the south-west base of
the " Half Dome," still another group of huts was brought
to view.

These discoveries necessitated the recrossing of the river,
which had now again become quite swollen; but by this
time our horses and ourselves had become used to the icy
waters, and when at times our animals lost their footing at
the fords, they were not at all alarmed, but vigorously
swam to the shore.

76 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that
the huts here had but just been deserted; that they had
been occupied that morning. Although a rigid search was
made, no Indians were found. Scouting parties in charge
of Lieutenants Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out to ex-
amine each branch of the valley, but this was soon found
to be an impossib e task to accomplish in one day. While
exploring among the rocks that had fallen from the " Eoyal
Arches " at the southwesterly base of the E'orth Dome,
my attention was attracted to a huge rock stilted upon
some smaller ones. Cautiously glancing underneath, I was
for a moment startled by a living object. Involuntarily
my rifle was brought to bear on it, when I discovered the
object to be a female; an extremely old squaw, but with a
countenance that could only be likened to a vivified Egyp-
tian mummy. This creature exhibited no expression of
alarm, and was app irently indifferent to hope or fear, love
or hate. I hailed one of my comrades on his way to camp,
to report to Major Savage that I had discovered a peculiar
living ethnological curiosity, and to bring something for it
to eat. She was seated on the ground, hovering over the
remnants of an almost exhausted fire. I replenished her
supply of fuel, and waited for the Major. She neither
spoke or exhibited any curiosity as to my presence.

Major Savage soon came, but could elicit nothing of im-
portance from her. When asked where her companions
were, she understood the dialect used, for she very curtly
replied "You can hunt for them if you want to see them"!
When asked why she was left alone, she replied " I am too
old to climb the rocks"! The Major — forgetting the gal-
lantry due her sex — inquired " How old are you?" With
an ineffably scornful grunt, and a coquettish leer at the
Major, she maintained an indignant silence. This attempt
at a smile, left the Major in doubt as to her age. Subse-

AXD INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

77

quentlv, wlien
Ten-ie-ya was in-
terrogated as to
the age of tliis
old squaw, he re-
plied that "T^o
one knows her
age. That when
he was a boy, it
w^as a favorite
tradition of the
old members of
h i s band, that
when she was a
child, the peaks
of the Sierras
were but little
lills.'^ This free
interpretation
was given by the
Major, while
seated around
the caujp fire at
night. If not
reliahle^ it was
excessively
amusing to the
"Boys," and ad-
ded to the Ma-
or's po])ularit3^
On a subsequent
visit to the Yal-
ley, an attempt was made to send the old
freatiire to the commissioner's camp; she
wa. i)laced on a mule and stai-ted. As

78 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

she could not bear the fatigue, she was left with another
squaw. We learned that she soon after departed ^' to the
happy land in the West."^^

The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery
of a small rancheria, a short distance above the "Cathedral
Rocks," but the huts were unoccupied. They also reported
the continuance of the trail down the left bank. The other
detachments found huts in groups, but no Indians. At all
of these localities the stores of food were abundant.

Their caches were principally of acorns, although many
contained bay (California laurel), Fiiion pine (Digger pine),
and chinquepin nuts, grass seeds, wild rye or oats (scorched),
dried worms, scorched grasshoppers, and what proved to be
the dried larvae of insects, which I was afterwards told were
gathered from the waters of the lakes in and east of the
Sierra Nevada. It was by this time quite clear that a large
number of Ten-ie-ya's band was hidden in the cliffs or
among the rocky gorges or canons, not accessible to us from
the knowledge we then had of their trails and passes. We
had not the time, nor had we supplied ourselves sufficiently
to hunt them out. It was therefore decided that the best
policy was to destroy their huts and stores, with a view of
starving them out, and of thus compelling them to come in
and join with Ten-ie-ya and the people with him on the res-
ervation. At this conclusion the destruction of their prop-
erty was ordered, and at once commenced. While this work
was in progress, 1 indulged my curiosity in examining the
lodges in which had been left their home property, domes-
tic, useful and ornamental. As compared with eastern
tribes, their supplies of furniture of all kinds, excepting
baskets, were meagre enough.

These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various
patterns and for different uses. The large ones were made
either of bark, roots of the Tamarach or Cedar, Willow or

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 79

Tiile. Those made for gathering and transporting food
supplies, were of large size and round form, with a sharp
apex, into which, when inverted and placed upon the back,
everything centres. This form of basket enables the car-
riers to keep their balance while passing over seemingly
impassable rocks, and along the verge of dangerous preci-
pices. Other baskets found served as water buckets.
Others again of various sizes were used as cups and soup
bowls; and still another kind, made of a tough, wiry grass,
closely woven and cemented, was used for kettles for boil-
ing food. The boiling was effected by hot stones being
continually plunged into the liquid mass, until the desired
result was obtained.

The water baskets were also made of "wire-grass;" be-
ing porous, evaporation is facilitated, and like the porous
earthen water-jars of Mexico, and other hot countries, the
water put into them is kept cool by evaporation. There
were also found at some of the encampments, robes or
blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from
skins of water-fowl. There were also ornaments and musi-
cal instruments of a rude character. The instruments
were drums and flageolets. The ornaments were of bone,
bears' claws, birds' bills and feathers. The thread used by
these Indians, I found was spun or twisted from the inner
bark of a species of the asclepias or milk-weed, by inge-
niously suspending a stone to the iibre, and whirling it with
great rapidity. Sinews are chiefly used for sewing skins,
for covering their bows and feathering their arrows. Theii
fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a cord so
attached near the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed
in a socket in the pole, was pulled out by the struggles of
the fish, the tine and cord would hold it as securely as
though held by a barbed hook.

There were many things found that only an Indian could

80 DISCO rERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

possibly use, and which it would be useless for me to at-
tempt to describe; such, for instance, as stag-horn ham-
mers, deer prong punches (for making arrow-heads), ob-
sidian, pumice-stone and salt brought from the eastern
slope of the Sierras and from the desert lakes. In the
hurry of their departure they had left everything. The
numerous bones of animals scattered about the camps, in-
dicated their love of horse-flesh as a diet.

Among these relics could be distinguished the bones of
horses and mules, as well as other animals, eaten by these
savages. Deers and bears were frequently driven into the
valley during their seasons of migration, and were killed
by expert hunters perched upon rocks and in trees that
commanded their runways or trails ; but their chief de-
pendence for meat was upon horseflesh.

Among the relics of stolen property were many things
recognized by our *^boys," while applying the torch and
giving all to the flames. A comrade discovered a bridle
and part of a riata or rope which was stolen from him with
a mule while waiting for the commissioners to inquire
into the cause of the war with the Indians! No animals
of any kind were kept by the Yosemites for any length of
time except dogs, and they are quite often sacrificed to
gratify their pride and appetite, in a dog feast. Their
highest estimate of animals is only as an article of food.
Those stolen from the settlers were not kept for their use-
fulness, except as additional camp supplies. The acorns
found were alone estimated at from four to six hundred
bushels.

During our explorations we were on every side astonished
at the colossal representations of cliffs, rocky canons and
water-falls which constantly challenged our attention and ad-
miration.

Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 81

other sign of Indians, but no trail could be discovered by
ov/r eyes. Tired and almost exhausted in the fruitless search
for Indians, the footmen returned to tlie place at which they
had left their horses in the canons, and in very thankfulness
caressed them with delight.

In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly explored
and names given to prominent objects and localities.

While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportu-
nity to examine some of the numerous sweat-houses noticed
on tlie bank of the Merced, below a large camp near the
mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. It may not be out of place
to here give a few words in description of these conve-
niences of a permanent Indian encampment, and the uses
for which they are considered a necessity.

The remains of these structures are sometimes mis'aken
for Tumuli. They were constructed of poles, bark, grass
and mud. The frame- work of poles is first covered with
bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud — as tenacious as the
soil will admit of — is spread thickly over it. The structure
is in the form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound.
After being dried by a slight fire, kindled inside, the mud is
covered with earth of a sufficient depth to shed the rain from
without, and prevent the escape of heat from within. A
small opening for ingress and egress is left; this comprises
the extent of the house when complete, and ready for use.
These sweat-baths are used as a luxury, as a curative for
disease, and as a convenience for cleansing the skin, when
necessity demands it, although the Indian race is not noted
for cleanliness.

As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed
by civilized people, than are these baths by the Mountain In-
dians. I have seen a half dozen or more enter one of these
rudely constructed sweat-houses, through the small aper-
ture left for the purpose. Hot stones are taken in, the
6

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

aperture is closed until suffocation would seem impending,
when they would crawl out reeking with perspiration, and
with a shout, spring like acrobats into the cold waters of
the stream. As a remedial agent for disease, the same
course is pursued, though varied at times by the burning
and inhalation of resinous boughs and herbs.

In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities,
hot air alone is generally used. If an Indian had passed the
usual period for mourning for a relative, and the adhesive
pitch too tenaciously clung to his no longer sorrowful coun-
tenance, he would enter, and re-enter the heated house, un-
til the cleansing had become complete.

The mourning pitch is composed of the charred bones
and ashes of their dead relative or friend. These remains
of the funeral pyre, with the charcoal, are pulverized and
mixed with the resin of the pine. This hideous mixture
is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until it
wears off. If it has been well compounded, it may last
nearly a year; although the young — either from a super-
abundance of vitality, excessive reparative powers of the
skin, or from powers of will — seldom mourn so long. When
the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, it is not
a scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely;
but a mother will seldom remove pitch or garment until
both are nearly worn out.

In their camps were found articles from the miners'
camps, and from the unguarded " ranchman." There was
no lack of evidence that the Indians who bad deserted their
villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the soubriquet
of " the Grizzlies," " the lawless."

Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading
from the different camps, all traces were soon lost among
the rocks at the base of the cliffs. The debris or talus not
only afforded places for temporary concealment, but provi-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 83

ded facilities for escape without betraying the direction. If
by chance a trail was followed for a while, it would at last
be traced to some apparently inaccessible ledge, or to the
foot of some slippery depression in the walls, up which we
did not venture to climb. While scouting up theTen-ie-ya
canon, above Mirror Lake, I struck the fresh trail of quite
a large number of Indians. Leaving our horses, a few of
us followed up the tracks until they were lost in the ascent
up the cliff. By careful search they were again found and
followed until finally they hopelessly disappeared.
. Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned,
although we were convinced that the Indians had in some
way passed up the cliff.

During this time, and while descending to the valley, I
partly realized the great height of the cliffs and high fall.
I had observed the height we were compelled to climb before
the Talus had been overcome, though from below this ap-
peared insignificant, and after reaching the summit of our
ascent, the cliffs still towered above us. It was by insti-
tuting these comparisons while ascending and descending,
that I was able to form a better judgment of altitude; for
while entering the valley, — although, as before stated, I had
observed the towering height of El Capitan, — my mind had
been so preoccupied with the marvelous, that comparison
had scarcely performed its proper function.

The level of the valley proper now appeared quite dis-
tant as we looked down upon it, and objects much less than
full size. As night was fast approaching, and a storm
threatened, we returned down the trail and took our course
for the rendezvous selected by Major Savage, in a grove of
oaks near the mouth of " Indian Canon."

While on our way down, looking across to and up the
south or Glacier Canon, I noticed its beautiful fall, and
planned an excursion for the morrow. I almost forgot my

84

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

fatigue, in admiration of the solemn grandeur within my
view; the lofty walls, the towering domes and numerous
water-falls; their misty spray blending with the clouds set-
tling down from the higher mountains.

The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses,
for beside fording the Merced several times, the numerous

branches pouring
over cliffs and
down ravin es
from the melting
snow, rendered
the overflow o f
the bottom lands
so constant that
we were often
compelled to
sp ash through
the water-courses
that later would
be dry. These
torrents of cold
water, command-
ed more especial
attention, and ex-
cited more com-
ment than did the
grandeur of the
cliffs and water-

GLACIER PALL.
(550 feet in height.)

falls. We were not a party of tourists, seeking recre-
ation, nor philosophers investigating the operations of
nature. Our business there was to And Indians who were
endeavoring to escape from our charitable intentions toward
them. But very few of the volunteers seemed to have any
appreciation of the wonderful proportions of the enclosing

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 85

granite rocks; tlieir curiosity had been to see the stronghold
of the enemy, and the general verdict was that it was
gloomy enough.

Tired and wet, the independent scouts sought the camp
and reported their failures. Gilbert and Chandler came in
with their detachments just at dark, from their tiresome ex-
plorations of the southern branches. Only a small squad
of their commands climbed above the Yernal and Nevada
falls; and seeing the clouds resting upon the mountains
above the Nevada Fall, they retraced their steps through the
showering mist of the Yernal, and joined their comrades,
who had already started down its rocky gorge. These men
found no Indians, but they were the first discoverers of the
Yernal and Nevada Falls, and the Little Yosemite. They
reported what they had seen to their assembled comrades at
the evening camp-fires. Their names have now passed from
my memory — not having had an intimate personal acquaint-
ance with them — for according to my recollection they be-
longed to the company of Capt. Dill.

While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage
with a detachment who had been burning a large cacJie lo-
cated in the fork, and another small one below the mouth
of the Ten-ie-ya branch. This had been held in reserve for
possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the flames
were leaping high. Observing his movements for a few
moments we rode up and made report of our unsuccessful
efibrts. I briefly, but with some enthusiasm^ described my
view from the cliff up the North Canon, the Mirror Lake
view of the Half Dome, the Fall of the South Canon and
the view of the distant South Dome. I volunteered a sug-
gestion that some new tactics would have to be devised be
fore we should be able to corral the " Grizzlies " or " smoke
them out." The Major looked up from the charred mass
of burning acorns, and as he glanced down the smoky val-

86

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ley, said: "This affords us the best prospect of any yet dis.
covered; just look!" "Splendid!" I promptly replied,
To-sem-i-te must be beautifully grand a few weeks laten
when the foliage and flowers are at their prime, and the
rush of water has somewhat subsided. Such cliffs and wa-
ter-'alls I never saw before, and I doubt if they exist in any
other place."

I was surprised
and somewhat ir-
ri tated by the
hearty laugh with
which my reply
was greeted. The
Major caught the
expression of my
eye and shrugged
his shoulders as
he hastily said: "I
suppose that is all
right, Doctor,
about the water-
falls, &c., for there
! are enough of
them here for one
|| 1 o c a 1 i t y , a s w e
-i have all discover-
ed; but my re-
mark was not in
reference to the
scenery, but tlie
prospect of the
Indians being starved out, and of their coming in to sue for
peace. We have all been more or less wet since we rolled up
our blankets tliis morning, and this fire is very enjoyable, but

VERNAL FAT,L.
(350 feet in height.)

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851,

87

the prospect that it offers to mj mind of smoking out the
Indians, is more agreeable to me than its warmth or all the
scenery in creation. I know, Doc, that there is a good
deal of iron in
you, but there is
also considerable
sentiment, and I
am not in a very
sentimental
mood." I replied
that I did not
think that any of
us felt very much
like making love
or writing poetry,
but that Ten-ie-
ya's remark to
him about the
"Great Spirit"
providing so
bountifuUy for
his people, had
several times oc-
curred to me since
entering here, and
that no doubt to

Ten-ie-ya, this ^'°° ^''' •" ''''-''''^

was a veritable Indian paradise. "Well,"
said the Major, " as far as that is con-
cerned, although I have not carried a
Eihle with me since I became a nioiint-
ain-man, I remember well enough that
Satan entered paradise and did all the mischief lie could,
but I intend to be a bigger devil in this Indian i^!ara:;Ise

88 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

than old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don't intend
to crawl out, either. Now Doc. we will go to camp but
let me saj while upon the subject, that we are in no con-
dition to judge fairly of this valley. The annoyances and
disappointments of a fruitless search, together with the cer-
tainty of a snow-storm approaching, makes all this beau-
tiful scenery appear to me gloomy enough. In a word, it
is what we supposed it to be before seeing it, a h — of a
place. The valley, no doubt, will always be a wonder for
its grouping of cliffs and water-falls, but hemmed in by
walls of rock, your vision turned in, as it were, upon your-
self— a residence here would be anything but desirable for
me. Any one of the Eocky Mountain parks would be pref-
erable, while the ease with which buffalo, black-tail and big-
horn could be provided in the " Eockies" would, in compar-
ison, make your Indian paradise anything but desirable,
even for these Indians.''

The more practical tone and views of the Major damp-
ened the ardor of my fancy in investing the valley with all
desirable qualities, but as we compared with each other the
experiences of the day, it was very clear that the half had
not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views would be
required before any one person could say that he had seen the
Yosemite. It will probably be as well for me to say here
that though Major Savage commanded the first expedition
to the valley, he never revisited it, and died without ever
having seen the Yernal and Nevada Falls, or any of the
views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, except those
seen from the valley and from the old Indian trail on our
first entrance.

We found our camp had been plentifully supplied with
dry wood by the provident guard, urged, no doubt, by the
threatening appearances of another snow-storm. Some
rude slielters of poles and brush were thrown up around the

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 89

fires, on which were placed the drying blankets, the whole
serving as an improvement on our bivouac accomodations.
The night was colder than the previous one, for the wind
was coming down the canons of the snowy Sierras. The
fires were lavislily piled with the dry oak wood, which sent
out a glowing warmth. The fatigue and exposure of the
day were forgotten in the hihirity with wliich supper was de-
voured by the hungry sc »ut> while steaming in their wet
garments. After su!)pe:- Major Savage announced that
*'from the very exteii i ve draft on the commissary stores just
made, it wa.-* neces iry to r 'turn to the 'South Fork.' " He
said that it would l)c a'lvirtai»le f >r us to return, as we were
not in a con<li ion to endure delay if the threatened storm
should prove to be a sev re one; and ordered both Captains
Boling and Dill to have their companies ready for the
march at davlio^lit the next morning.

While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to
a night's rest, the incidents of our observations during
the day were interchanged. The probable heights of the
cliffs was discussed. One official estimated "El Capitan"
at 400 feet!! Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major Savage was
in no mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a
sheer perpendicularity of at least 1500 feet. Mr. C. H.
Spencer, son of Prof. Thomas Spencer, of Geneva, N. Y., —
who had traveled quite extensively in Europe, — and a
French gentleman. Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil engineer,
who had joined us for the sake of adventure, gave me their
opinions that my estimate was none too high; that it was
probable tliat I was far below a correct measurement, for
when there was so much sameness of height the judgment
could not very well be assisted by comparison, and hence
instrumental measurements alone could be relied on. Time
has demonstrated the correctness of their opinions. These
gentlemen were men of education and practical experience

90 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

in observing the heights of objects of which measurement
had been made, and qnietlj reminded their auditors that it
was difficult to measure such massive objects with the eye
alone. That some author had said : " But few persons have
a correct judgment of height that rises above sixty feet."

I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the sub-
ject of the valle}^, and expressed myself in such a positive
manner that the '' enfant terrible*^ of the company deri-
sively asked if I was given to exaggeration before I became
an " Indian fighter." From my ardor in description, and
admiration of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed "Yo-
semity" by some of the battalion. It was customary among
the mountain men and miners to prefix distinctive names.
From this hint I became less f.xjyressive^ when conversing
on matters relating to the valley. My self-respect caused
me to talk less among my comrades generally, but with in-
timate friends the subject was always an open one, and my
estimates of heights were never reduced.

Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but
on our expressing a design to revisit the valley at some fu-
ture time, he assured us that there was a probability of our
being fully gratified, for if the renegades did not voluntarily
come in, another visit would soon have to be made by the
battalion, when we could have opportunity to measure the
rocks if we then desired. That we should first escort our
"captives" to the commissioners' camp on the Fresno; that
by the time we returned to the valley the trails would be
clear of snow, and we would be able to explore to our sat-
isfaction. Casting a quizzing glance at me, he said: " The
rocks will probably keep, but you will not find all of these
immense water-powers.^^

IS^otwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheer-
fully wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept, until
awakened by the guard; for there had been no disturbance

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1S51. 91

during the night. The snow had fallen only to about the
depth of an inch in the valley, but the storm still contin-
ued.

By early dawn " all ready" was announced, and we start-
ed back without having seen any of the Indian race except
our useless guide and the old squaw. Major Savage rode
at the head of the column, retracing our trail, rather than
attempt to follow down the south side. The water was rel-
atively low in the early morning, and the fords were passed
without difficulty. While passing El Capitan I felt like sa-
luting, as I would some dignified acquaintance.

The caehc.'i below were vet smoulderino', but the lodo^es
had disappeared.

At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail
over rocks tliat could not be re-ascended with animals. To
return, we were compelled to remove a few obstructions of
poles, brush and loose rocks, placed by the Indians to pre-
vent the escape of the animals stolen and driven down.
Entire herds had been sometimes taken from the ranches or
their ranges.

After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encoun-
tered. The snow had drifted into the hollows, but had nut
to any extent obscured the trail, which we now found quite
hard. TTe reached the camp earlier in the day than we had
reason to ex})ect. During these three days of absence from
headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially ex-
plored one of the most remarkable of the geographical won-
ders of the world.

92 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

OHAPTEE Yl.

Out of Provisions— A hurried Move— Mills where Indians take Their
Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food— Advance Movement
of Captain Dill— A Hungry Squad— Enjoyment— Neglect of Duty-
Escape of Indians— Following their Trail — A Sorrowi'al Captain— A
Mystery made Clear — Duplicity of the Chow-chillas — Vow-chester's
Good- will Offering— Return of the Fugitives— Major Savage as Agent
and Interpreter.

On our arrival at the rendezvous on the South Fork the
officer in charge reported: "We are about out of grub."
This was a satisfactory cause for a hurried movement; for
a short allowance had more terrors for men with our appe-
tites than severe duties; and most of us had already learned
that, even with prejudice laid aside, our stomachs would
refuse the hospitalities of the Indians, if it were possible
for them to share with us from their own scanty stores.
The Major's experience prompted him at once to give the
order to break camp and move on lor the camp on the
Fresno.

Our mounted force chafed at the slowness of our march;
for the Indians could not be hurried. Although their cook-
ery was of the most primitive character, we were very much
delayed by the time consumed in preparing their food.

While traveling we were compelled to accommodate our
movements to the capacities or inclinations of the women
and children. Captain Dill, therefore, with his company
was sent on ahead from the crossing of the South Fork,
they leaving with us what food they could spare. When

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 93

Dill reached the waters of the Fresno about one hundred
''' captives ^^ joined him. These Indians voluntarily sur-
rendered to Captain Dill's company, which at once hurried
them on, and they reached the commissioners at the Fresno.

Captain Boling's company and Major Savage remained
with the " Grand Caravan," keeping out scouts and hun-
ters to secure such game as might be found to supply our-
selves with food. We had no anxiety for the safety or se-
curity of our "captives;" our OAvn subsistence was the im-
portant consideration ; for the first night out from Bish-
op's camp left us but scanty stores for breakfast. Our halt-
ing places were selected from the old Indian camj^ing
grounds, which were supplied with hoyas (holes or mor-
tars). These peimanent mortars were in the bed-rock, or
in large detached rocks that had fallen from the cliffs or
mountains. These " hoyas " had been formed and used
by past generations. They were frequent on our route,
many of them had long been abandoned; as there was no
indications of recent uses having been made of tliem. From
their numbers it was believed that the Indians had once
been much more numerous than at that date.

By means of the stone pestles with which they were pro-
vided, the squaws used these primitive mills to reduce their
acorns and grass seeds to flour or meal. While the grists
weie being ground, others built the fires on which stones
were heated.

When red hot, these stones were plunged into baskets
nearly filled with water; this is continued until the water
boils. The stones are then removed and the acorn meal, or
a cold mixture of it, is stirred in until thin gruel is made;
the hot stones are again plunged into the liquid mass and
and again removed. When suflSciently cooked, this "Atola"
or porridge, was poured into plates or moulds of sand, pre-
pared for that purpose. During the process of cooling, the

94: DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

excess of water leaches off through the sand, leaving the
woody fibre tannin and unappropriated coarse meal in dis-
tinctive strata; the edible portion being so defined as to be
easily separated from the refuse and sand. This prepara-
tion was highly prized by them, and contrary to preconceiv-
ed ideas and information, all of the Indians I asked assured
me that the hitter acorns were the best when cooked. This
compound of acorn meal resembles corn starch blanc mange
in color, but is more dense in consistency. Although it
was free from grit, and comparatively clean, none of us
were able to eat it, and we were quite hungry. From this,
I was led to conclude that to relish this Indian staple, the
taste must be acquired while very young.

Old Ten-ie-ya's four wives, and other squaws, were dis-
posed to be quite hospitable when they learned that our
supply of provisions was exhausted. None of the com-
mand, however, ventured to sample their acorn -jellies, grass-
seed mush, roasted grasshoppers, and their other delicacies;
nothing was accepted but the Pinon pine nuts, which were
generally devoured with a relish and a regret for the scar-
city.

Certain species of worms, the larvse of ants and some
other insects, common mushrooms and truffles, or wood-
mushrooms, are prized by the Indian epicure, as are eels
shrimps, oysters, frogs, turtles, snails, etc., by his white
civilized brother. Are we really but creatures of educa-
tion ?

The hasl'ets used by the Indians for boiling their food
and other purposes, as has been before stated, are made of
a tough mountain bunch-grass, nearly as hard and as strong
as wire, and almost as durable. So closely woven are they,
that but little if any water can escape from them. They
are made wholly impervious with a resinous compound
resembling the vulcanized rubber used by dentists. This

AND INDIAN WAR OF I80I. 95

composition does not appear to be in the least affected by hot
water. The same substance, in appearance at least, is used
by Mountain Indians in attaching sinews to bows, and
feathers and barbs to arrows.

I endeavored to ascertain what the composition was, bnt
could only learn that the resin was procured from small
trees or shrubs, and that some substance (probably min-
eral) was mixed with it, the latter to resist the action of
heat and moisture. I made a shrewd guess that pulverized
lava and sulphur (abundant east of the High Sierras) was
used, but for some cause I was left in ignorance. The In-
dians, like all ignorant persons, ascribe i-emarkable virtues
to very simple acts and to inert remedies. Upon one occa-
sion a doctor was extolling the virtues of a certain root,
ascribing to it almost miraculous powers; I tried in vain to
induce him to tell me the name of the root. He stated
that the secret was an heir-loom, and if told, the curative
power of the plant would disappear; but he kindly gave
me some as a preventive of some imaginarj^ ill, when lo ! I
discovered the famous remedy to be the cowslip.

After a delayed and hungry march of several days, we
halted near sundown within a few miles of the Commis-
sioner's headquarters, and went into camp for the night.
The Indians came straggling in at will from their hunts on
the way, their trophies of skill with their bows being the
big California squirrels, rabbits or hares and quail. Our
more expert white hunters had occasionally brought in ven.
ison for our use. We had ceased to keep a very effective
guard over our " captives; " none seemed necessary, as all
appeared contented and satisfied, almost joyous, as we neared
their destination on the Fresno.

The truth is, we regarded hostilities, so far as these In-
dians were concerned, as ended. We had voted the peace
policy a veritable success. We had discussed the matter in

96 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

camp, and contrasted the lack of spirit exhibited by these
people with what we knew of the warlike character of the
Indians of Texas and of the Northwestern plains. In these
comparisons, respect for our captives was lost in contempt.
" The noble red man " was not here represented. The only
ones of the Pacific Slope, excepting the Navahoes, Pimas and
Maricopahs, that bear any comparison with the Eastern
tribes for intelligence and bravery, are the You-mahs of the
Colorado river, the Modocs, and some of the Kogue and
Columbia river tribes, but none of these really equal the
Sioux and some other Eastern tribes.

Hardly any attention had been paid to the captives dur-
ing the preceding night, except from the guard about our
own camp; from a supposition that our services could well
be spared. Application was therefore made by a few of us,
for permission to accompany the Major, who had determin-
ed to go on to the Fresno head-quarters. When consent
was given, the wish was so generally expressed, that Captain
Boling with nine men to act as camp guard, volunteered to
remain, if Major Savage would allow the hungry " boys" to
ride with him. The Major finally assented to the proposi-
tion, saying: " 1 do not suppose the Indians can be driven
off, or be induced to leave until they have had the feast I
promised them; besides, they W'ill want to see some of the
commissioner's finery. I have been delighting their imag-
inations with descriptions of the presents in store for them."

When the order was passed for the hungry squad to fall
in, we mounted with grateful feelings towards Captain Bo-
ling, and the "boys" declared that the Major was a trump.
for his consideration of our need. With the prospect of a
good "square" meal, and the hope of a genial "smile" from
our popular commissary, the time soon passed, and the dis-
tance seemed shortened, for we entered the Fresno camp
before our anticipations were cloyed. Head -quarters was

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 97

well supplied with all needful comforts, and was not totally
deficient in luxuries. Our Quarter-Master and Commissa-
ry was active in his duties, and as some good women say of
their husbands, " He was a good provider.'* We had no
reason to complain of our reception ; our urgent require-
ments were cheerfully met. The fullness of our entertain-
ment did not prevent a good night's rest, nor interfere with
the comfortable breakfast which we enjoyed. While taking
coffee, the self denial of Captain Boling and his volunteer
guard was not forgotten. Arrangements were made to fur-
nish the best edible and potable stores, that could be secured
from our conscientious and prudent commissary. We were
determined to give them a glorious reception; but — the
Captain did not bring in his captives! Major Savage sent
out a small detachment to ascertain the cause of the delay.
This party filled their haversacks with comforts for the
" Indian guard." After some hours of delay, the Major be-
came anxious to hear from Captain Boling, and began to
be suspicious that something more serious than the loss of
his animals, was the cause of not sending in a messenger,
and he ordered out another detachment large enough to
meet any supposed emergency. Not far from camp, they
met the Captain and his nine men (the ^''Indian guarcV)
and one Indian, with the relief party first sent out. Our
jovial Captain rode into ^^Head-quarters" looking mure crest
fallen than he had ever been seen before. When asked by
the Major where he had left the Indians, he blushed like
a coy maiden and said: ''They have all gone to the moun-
tains, but the one I have with me."

Af er Captain Boling had made his rej^ort to the i>rajor,
and made all explanations to the commissioners, and when
he had refreshed himself with an extra ration or two of th
potable liquid, that by SjieeiMl stipulation had hpen reserved
for the '* Indian Guard," something of his old humor re-
7

98 DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,

turned to him, and he gave us tlie details of his annoyances
by the breach of trust on the part of " our prisoners."

The Captain said: "Soon after you left us last night, one
of my men, who was out hunting when we camped, came
in with a deer he had killed just at the dusk of the even-
ing. From this we made a hearty supper, and allowed the
youth who had helped to bring in the deer to share in the
meat. The Indian cooked the part given to him at our
fire, and ate with the avidity of a famished wolf. This ex-
cited comment, and anecdotes followed of the enormous
appetites displayed by some of them. The question was
then raised, 'how much can this Indian eat at one meal?'
I su^o-ested that a fair trial could not be had with only one
deer. Our hunter said he would give him a prelimi-
nary trial, and when deer were plenty we could then test
his full capacity, if he should prove a safe one to bet on.
He then cut such pieces as we thought would suffice for our
breakfast, and, with my approval, gave the remainder to his
boy, who was anxiously watching his movements. I con-
sented to this arrangement, not as a test of his capacity, for
I had often seen a hungry Indian eat, but as a reward for
his services in bringing in the deer on his shoulders. He
readily re-commenced his supper, and continued to feast un-
til every bone was cracked and picked. When the last
morsel of the venison had disappeared he commenced a
doleful sing-song, ' Waj^-ah-we-ha-ha, Wah-ah-we-ha-ha '
to some unknown deity, or, if I was to judge from my ear
of the music, it must have been his prayer to the devil, for
I liave heard that it is a part of their worship. His song was
soon echoed from the camp where all seemed contentment.
After consoling himself in this manner for some time he
fell asleep at our fire.

"The performance being over, I told my men to take their
&]eep and I would watch, as I was not sleepy; if I wanted

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 99

tlieiii I would call tliein. I then tliouo'ht, as Major Savao:e
had declared, the Indians could scarcely be driven off, until
they had had their feast and the presents they expected
to have given them. I sat by the fire for a long time
cogitating on past events and future prospects, when think-
ing it useless to require the men to stand guard, I told them
to sleep. Moving about and seeing nothing but the usual
appearance, I decided it to be unneccessary to exercise any
further vigilance, and told one of the men, who was partial-
ly aroused by my movements, and who offered to get
up and stand guard, that he had better lie still and
sleep. Toward morning I took another round, and finding
the Indian camp wrapped in apparently profound slumber,
I concluded to take a little sleep myself, until daylight.
This now seems unaccountable to me, for I am extremely
cautious in my habits. Such a breach of military disci-
pline would have subjected one of my men to a court-
martial. I confess myself guilty of neglect of duty ; I
should have taken nothing for granted.

"Ko one can imagine my surprise and mortification when
I was called and told that the Indian camp was entirely de-
seMed, and that none were to be seen except the one asleep
by our camp fire. My indifference to placing a guard over
the Indian camp will probably always be a mystery to me,
but it most likely saved our lives, for if we had attempted
to restrain them, and you know us well enough to believe
we would not have let them off without a fight: they would
probably have pretty well used us up. As it was, we did
not give them up without an eftbrt. We saddled our horses
and started in chase, thinking that as while with us, their
women and children would retard their pi-ogress, and that
we would soon overtake them. We took the young brave
with us, who had slept by our fire. He knew nothing of
the departure of his people, and was very much alarmed,

100 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

as he expected we would at once kill liim. I tried to make
him useful in following tlieir trail; he by signs, gave me to
understand he did not know where they had gone, and
seemed unwilling to take the trail when I pointed it out to
him. He evidently meant to escape the first opportunity.
I kept him near me and treated him kindly, but gave him
to understand I should shoot him if he tried to leave me.

" We pursued until the trail showed that they had scattered
in every direction in the brushy ravines and on the rocky
side of a mountain covered with undergrowth, where we
could not follow them with our animals. Chagrined and
disgusted with myself for my negligence, and my inability
to recover any part of my charge, and considering farther
pursuit useless, we turned about and took the trail to head-
quarters with our one captive."

Major Savage took the youngster under his charge, and
flattered him by his conversations and kindly treatment.
The Commissioners lionized him somewhat; he was gaily
clothed and ornameiited, loaded with presents for his own
family relations, and was given his liberty and permitted to
leave camp at his leisure, and thus departed the last of the
'' grand caravan " of some three hundred and fifty " cap-
tives," men, women and children, which we had collected
and escorted from the mountains.

The sight of the one hundred brought to them by Cap-
tain Dill, and his report that we were. coming with about
three hundred and fifty mure, aroused sanguine hopes in the
commission that the war was over, and that their plans had
been successful. " Now that the prisoners have fled," we
asked, " What will be done? "

To a military man, this lack of discipline and piecaution
— through wliich the Indians e^CM])tHi — will seem unpar-
donable; and an ofticer who, like our Captain, should leave
his camp unguarded, under any circumstances, would be

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 101

deemed disgracefnllv incompetent. In palliation of these
facts, it may not occur to the rigid disciplinarian that Cap-
tain John Boling and the men under him — or the most of
them, had not had the advantages of army drill and disci-
pline. The courage of these mountain-men in times of
danger was undoubted; their caution was more apt to be
displayed in times of danger to others, than when they
themselves were imperiled.

In this case Captain Boling was not apprehensive of dan-
ger to those under his charge. His excessive good nature
and good will toward his men prompted him to allow, even
to command them, to take the sleep and rest that an irreg-
ular diet, and the labor of hunting while on the march, had
seemed to require. No one had a keener sense of his error
than himself The whole command sympathized with him
— notwithstanding the ludicrous aspect of the affair — their
finer feelings were aroused by his extreme regrets. They
determined that if opportunities offered, he should have
their united aid to wipe out this stigma. Major Savage
was deceived by the child-like simplicity with which the
Indians had been talking to him of the feast expected, and
of the presents tliey would soon receive from the commis-
sioners. He did not suppose it possible that they would
make an attempt to escape, or such a number would not
have been left with so small a guard. We had men with
us who knew what discipline was, who had been trained to
obey orders without hesitation. Men who had fought un-
der CoL Jack Hays, Majors Ben McCullough and Mike
Chevallia, both in Indian and Mexican warfare, and they
considered themselves well posted. Even these men were
mistaken in their opinions. The sudden disappearance of
the Indians, was as much a surprise to them as to our offi-
cers.

With a view to solving this mystery Yow-ches-ter was

102 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

sent for from his camp near by, where all the treaty tribes
were congregated, and when questioned the Chief said that
during the night Ohow-chilla runners had been in the camp,
and to him in person with their months filled with lies; they
had probably gone to the camp of those who were coming
in, and they were induced to leave. Evidently he felt as-
sured of the fact; but until questioned, his caution. Indian-
like, kept him silent. Yow-ches-ter's sincerity and desire
for peace was no longer doubted. Those who were suspic-
ious of his friendship before were silenced, if not convinced,
when he volunteered to go out and bring in such of the fu-
gitives as he could convince of the good will of the com-
missioners. The young Indian liad not yet left the camp,
but was found relating his adventures and good fortune,
and was directed to accompany Yow-ches-ter on his mis-
sion of good will. The Chief was instructed to give posi-
tive assurances of protection against hostilities, if any were
threatened by the Chow-chillas. He was also instructed to
dispatch runners to aid his efforts, and was told to notify
all that the commissioners would not remain to be trifled
with; if they wished peace they must come in at once.
That if the commissioners should go away, which they soon
would do on their way south, no further efforts for peace
would be made. That the niountain men and soldiers of
the whites were angry, and would no longer take their word
for peace, but would punish tliem and destroy their sup-
plies. After a few days Yow-ches-ter came back with about
one hundred of the runaways; these were followed by
others, until ultimately, nearly all came back except Ten-
ie-ya and his people. All then in camp expressed a readi-
ness to meet for a grand council and treaty.

The reasons given by those who returned for their flight,
were that just before daylight on the morning of their
departure Chow-chilla runners (as had been surmised by

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 103

Yow-ches-ter) came to their camp with the report that they
were being taken to the plains, where they would all be
killed in order to evade the promises to pay for their lands,
and for revenge.

In reply to the statements that they had been treated by
the whites as friends, the Chow-chillas answered sneeringly
that the whites were not fools to forgive them for killing
their friends and relatives, and taking their property, and
said tlieir scouts had seen a large mounted force that was
gathering in the foot-hills and on the plains, who would
ride over them if they ventured into the open ground of the
reservation, or encampment at the plains. This caused
great alarm. They expected destruction from the whites,
and in the excitement caused by the Chow-chillas, threat-
ened to kill Captain Boling and his men, and for that pur-
pose reconnoitered the Captain's camp. The Chow-chillas
dissuaded them from the attempt, saying: " The white men
always sleep on their guns, and they will alarm the white
soldiers below by their firing, and bring upon you a mounted
force before yon could reach a place of safety."

The young fellow that was asleep in Boling's camp was
not missed until on the march; his appearance among them
gaily clothed, after being kindly treated, very much aided
Vow-ches-ter in his statement of the object of the council
and treaty to be held. The runaways told the commission-
ers that they felt very foolish, and were ashamed that they
had been so readily deceived; they also expressed a wish
that we would punish the Chow-chillas, for they had caused
all the trouble. The reception they received soon satisfied
them that they had nothing to fear. They were given food
and clothing, and their good fortune was made known to
other bands, and soon all of the tribes in the vicinity made
treaties or sent messengers to express their willingness to
do so, excepting the Chow-chillas and Yosemites. Even

104 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Ten-ie-ya was reported to have ventured into the Indian
quarter, but taking a look at the gaudy c(jlored handker-
chiefs and shirts offered him in lieu of his ancient and well-
worn guernsey that he habitually wore, he scoffingly re-
fused the offers. Turning towards his valley home, he sor-
rowfully departed; his feelings apparently irritated by the
evidences of vanity he saw in the gaudy apparel and weak
contentment of those he was leaving behind him. Major
Savage, who it was supposed would be the Indian agent at
the end of the war, was absent at the time of Ten-ie-ya's
visit, but "the farmer" showed the old chief all proper re-
spect, and had endeavored to induce him to await the Ma-
jor's return, but failed.

Major Savage, though still in command of the battalion,
now devoted most of his time to the commissioners; and
the energy with which our campaigns had opened, seemed
to be somewhat abating. The business connected with the
treaties was transacted principally through his interpreta-
tion, thouoh at times other interpreters were employed.
The mission interpreters only translated the communica-
tions made in the Indian dialects into Spanish; these were
then rendered into Enulish by Spanish interpreters em-
ployed by the commission.

A pretty strong detail of men was now placed on duty
at head-quarters on the Fresno, principally drawn from
Captain Dill's Company. Adjutant Lewis had really no
duties in the field, nor had he any taste or admiration for
the snowy mountains — on foot. His reports were written
up at head-quarters, as occasion required, and often long
after the events had transpired to which they related. I
was an amused observer upon one occasion, of Major Sav-
age's method of making out an official report, Adjutant
Lewis virtually acting only as an amanuensis.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 105

OHAPTEK YII.

Campaigrn against the Chow- chHlas— The Favorite Hunting Ground— A
Deer Hunt and a Bear Chase — An Accident and an Alarm — A Torch-
light Powwow — Indians Discovered — Captain Boling's Speech —
Crossing of the San Joaquin — A Line of Battle, its Disappearance —
Capture of Indian Village — Jose Key's Funeral-pyre— Following the
Trail — A Dilemma — Sentiment and Applause — Returning to Camp —
Narrow Escape of Captain Boling.

Major Savage now advised a vigorous campaign against
the Chow-chillas. The stampeding of our captives was one
of the incentives for this movement; or at least, it was for
this reason that Captain Eoling and his company most
zealously advocated prompt action. The commissioners
approved of the plan, and decided that as the meddlesome
interference of these Indians prevented other bands from
coming in, it was necessary, if a peace policy was to be
maintained with other tribes, that this one be made to feel
the power they were opposing; and that an expedition of
sufficient strength to subdue them, sliould be ordered im-
mediately to commence operations against them. Accord-
ingly, a force composed of B. and C. companies, Boling's
and Dill's, numbering about one hundred men, under com-
mand of Major Savage, started for the San Joaquin Eiver.
The route selected was by way of " Coarse Gold Gulch," to
the head waters of the Fresno, and thence to the North
Fork of the San Joaquin.

The object in taking this circuitous route, was to sweep
the territory of any scattered bands that might infest it.

106 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

We made our first camp on the waters of " Coarse Gold
Gulch," in order to allow the scouts time to explore in ad-
vance of the command. No incident occurred here to claim
especial notice, but in the morning, while passing them, I
made a hastj examination of one of the "Figured Eocks"
to the left of the trail.

I saw but little of interest, for at the time, I doubted the
antiquity of the figures. Subsequently, in conversation with
Major Savage he said that the figures had probably been
traced by ancient Indians, as the present tribes had no
knowledge of the representations. I afterwards asked San-
dino and other Mission Indians concerning them, but none
could give me any information. The scouts sent out were
instructed to rendezvous near a double fall on the north
fork of the San Joaquin in a little valley through which the
trail led connecting with that of the north fork, as grass
would there be found abundant.

Major Savage was familiar with most of the permanent
trails in this region, as he had traversed it in his former
prospecting tours. As we entered the valley selected for
our camping place, a flock of sand-hill cranes rose from it
with their usual persistent yells; and from this incident,
their name was aflSxed to the valley, and is the name by
which it is now known.

The scouts, who were watching on the trail below, soon
discovered and joined us. " It is a little early for camp-
ing," the Major said; "but at this season, good grass can
only be found in the mountains in certain localities. Here
there is an abundance, and soap root enough to wash a reg-
iment."

We fixed our camp on the West side of the little valley,
about half a mile from the double falls. These falls had
nothing peculiarly attractive, except as a designated point
for a rendezvous.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 107

The stream above the falls was narrow and very rapid, but
below, it ran placidly for some distance through rich meadow
land. The singularity of the fall was in its being double;
the upper one only three or four feet, and the lower one,
which was but a step below, about ten or tweh^e feet. In
my examination of the locality, I was impressed witli the
convenience with which suc-h a water-power could be utilized
for mechanical purposes, if the supply of water would but
prove a permanent one.

From this camp, new scouts were sent out in search of
Indians and their trails; while a few of us had permission
to hunt within a mile of camp. While picketing our ani-
mals, I observed the flock of sand-hill cranes again settling
down some way above ns, and started with Wm. Hays to
get a shot at them. We were not successful in getting
within range; having been so recently alarmed, they were
suspiciously on the look out, and scenting our approach,
they left the valley. Turning to the eastward, we were
about entering a small ravine leading to the wooded ridge
on the j^orthwest side of the Fork, when we discovered
two deer ascending the slope, and with evident intention of
passing through the depression in the ridge before us.

They were looking hach on their trail, assurance enough
that ive had not been seen. We hurriedl}^ crept up the ra-
vine to head them off, and waited for their approach. Hays
became nervous, and as he caught a glimpse of the leader,
he hastily said, " Here they come — both of them — I'll take
the buck!" Assenting to his arrangement, we both fired
as they rose in full view. The doe fell almost in her
tracks. The buck made a bound or two up the ridge and
disappeared. While loading our rifles Hays exclaimed, as
if in disgust, "A miss, by jingoes! that's a fact." I re-
plied, not so, old fellow, you hit him hard; he switched his
tail desperately; you will see him again." We found him

108 DISCOVERY OF THE TOS EMITS,

dead in the head of the next ravine, but a few rods off.

Hanging up our game to secure it until our return with
horses, we started along the slope of the ridge toward camp.
Hajs was in advance, stopping suddenly, he pointed to
some immense tracks of grizzlies, which in the soft, yielding
soil appeared like the foot prints of huge elephants, and
then hastily examining his rifle and putting a loose ball in
his mouth (we had no fixed ammunition in those days, ex-
cept the old paper cartridges), started on the tracks. At
first I was amused at his excited, silent preparations and
rapid step, and passively accompanied him. When we had
reached a dense under-growth, into which the trail led, and
which he was about to enter, I halted and said : "I have
followed this trail as far as I design to go. Hays, it is
madness for us to follow grizzlies into such a place as that."
Hays turned, came back, and said in an excited manner,
" I didn't suppose you would show the white feather with
a good rifle in your hands; Cliandler gives you a different
character. You don't mean to say you are afraid to go in
there with me; we'll get one or two, sure.

I was at first inclined to be angry, but replied, " Hays, I
am much obliged to you for the good opinion you have had
of me, but I know what grizzlies are. / am afraid of
grizzlies unless I have every advantage of them; and don't
think it would be an}^ proof of courage to follow them in
there." Hays reached out his hand as he said: " If that is
your corner stake, we will go back to camp." We s' ook
liands, and that question was settled between us. After-
wards Hays told of bis experience among Polar bears, and I
rehearsed some of mine among cinnamon and grizzly bears,
and he replied that after all he thought " we had acted
wisely in letting the latter remain undisturbed. When in
the brush they seemed to know their advantage, and were
more likely to attack, whereas at other times, they would

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 109

get out of your way, if they could." I replied by asking:
*' Since you know tlieir nature so well, why did you want to
follow them into the brush?" He retorted, ^'Simply be-
cause I was excited and reckless, like many another man."

Taking the back trail, we soon reached camp, and with
our horses brought in the game before dark. While enter
ing camp, several of our men rushed by with their rifles.
Looking back across the open valley on our own trail, I saw
a man running toward us as if his life depended on his
speed. His long hair was fairly streaming behind as he
rushed breathless into camp, without hat, shoes or gun.
When first seen, the " boys " supposed the Chow-chillas
were after him, but no pursuers appeared in sight. As
soon as he was able to talk, he reported that he had left the
squad of hunters he had gone out with, and was moving
along the edge of a thicket on his way to camp, when he
struck the trail of three grizzlies. Having no desire to en-
counter them, he left their trail, but suddenly came upon
them while endeavoring to get out of the brush.

Before he could raise his rifle, they rushed toward him.
He threw his hat at the one nearest, and started off at a
lively gait. Glancing back, he saw two of them quarreling
over his old hat; the other was so close that he dare not
shoot, but dropped his gun and ran for life.

Fortunate'y, one of his shoes came off, and the bear
stopped to examine and tear it in pieces, and here no doubt
discontinued the chase, as he was not seen afterwards, though
momentarily expected by the hunter in his flight to camp.

The hero of this adventure was a Texan, that was regarded
by those who knew him best as a brave man, but upon this
occasion he was without side arms, and, as he said, '* was
taken at a disadvantage." The Major joked him a little
upon his continued speed, but " Texas Joe" took it in good
part, and replied that the Major, **or any other blank fool,

110 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

would have run just as he did." A few of us went back with
Joe, and found his rifle unharmed. The tracks of his pur-
suers were distinctly visible, but no one evinced any desire
to follow them up.

We considered his escape a most remarkable one.

A little after dark all the scouts came in, and reported
that no Indians had been seen, nor very fresh signs discov-
ered, but that a few tracks were observed upon the San Joa-
quin trail.

The news was not encouraging, and some were a little de-
spondent, but as usual, a hearty supper and the social pipe
restored the younger men to their thoughtless gayet}^ My
recollections bring to mind many pleasant hours around the
camp-fires of the " Mariposa Battalion." Many of the
members of that organization were men of more than ordi-
nary culture and general intelligence; but they had been
led out from civilization into the golden tide, and had ac-
quired a reckless air and carriage, peculiar to a free life in
the mountains of California.

The beauty of the little valley in which we were camped
had so attracted my attention, that while seated by the camp-
fire in the evening, enjoying my meal, I spoke of it in the
general conversation, and found that others had discovered
a *' claim" for a future rancho, if the subjection of the In-
dians should make it desirable. The scouts mentioned the
fact of there being an abundance of game as far as they had
been, but that of course they dare not shoot, lest the Indi-
ans might be alarmed. These men were j^rovided with ven-
ison by Hays and myself, while many a squirrel, jack rab-
bit, quail and pigeon was spitted and roasted by other less
fortunate hunters. Our deer were divided among im-
mediate friends and associates, and Captain Boling slylj^
remarked that " the Major's appetite is about as good as an
Indian's." Major Savage seemed to enjoy the conversation

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. Ill

in praise of this region, and in reply to the assertion that
this was the best hunting ground we had yet seen, said:
'* Where you find game plenty, you will find Indians not
far off. This belt of country beats the region of the Yo-
semite or the Poho-no Meadows for game, if the Indians
tell the truth; and with the exception of the Kern River
country, it is the best south of the Tuolumne River. It
abounds in grizzlies and cinnamon bears, and there are some
black bears. Deer are very plenty, and a good variety of
small game — such as crane, grouse, quail, pigeons, road-run-
ners, squirrels and rabbits — besides, in their season, water
fowl. This territory of the Chow-chillas has plenty of black
oak acorns (their favorite acorn), and besides this, there are
plenty of other supplies of bulbous roots, tubers, grasses
and clover. In a word, there is everything here for the
game animals and birds, as well as for the Indians."

I now thought I had a turn on the Major, for he was
quite enthusiastic, and I said: "Major, you have made out
another Indian Paradise; I thought you a skeptic." With a
smile as if in remembrance of our conversation in the
Yosemite, he replied: "Doc, I don't believe these Ohow-
chilla devils will leave here without a fight, for they seem
to be concentrating; but we are going to drive them out
with a 'flaming brand.' I think we shall find some of them
to-morrow, if we expect good Inck." Turning to Captain
Boling he continued, " Captain, we must make an early
move in the morning; and to-morrow we must be careful
not to flush our game before we get within rifle-shot. You
had better caution the guards to be vigilant, for we may
have a visit from their scouts to-night, if only to stampede
our horses."

Taking this as a hint that it was time to turn in, I rolled
myself in my blankets. My sleep was not delayed by any
thoughts of danger to the camp, — though I would have

112 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

admitted the danger of loss of animals — ^but I was awakened
by a stir in camp, and from hearing the Major called.

Sandino, the Mission Indian interpreter, had just come
in from head-quarters, guiding an escort that had been sent
for the Major. The Sergeant in command handed a letter
to Savage, who, after reading it at the camp fire, remarked
to Captain Boling, " the commissioners have sent for me to
come back to head-quarters ; we will talk over matters in
the morning, after we have had our sleep." He was snor-
ing before I slept again.

In the morning Major Savage stated that be had been
sent for by the Commissioners to aid in treating with a d 1-
egation of Kah-we-ah Indians sent in by Capt. Kuykendall,
and regretted to leave us just at that time, when we were
in the vicinity of the game we were after. That we would
now be under the command of Captain Boling, etc. The
Major made us a nice little speech. It was short, and was
the only one he ever made to us. He then drew an outline
map of the country, and explained to Captain Boling the
course and plans he had adopted, but which were to be va-
ried as the judgment of the Captain should deem to his
advantage. He repeatedly enjoined the Captain to guard
against surprise, by keeping scouts in advance and upon
flank.

He then said he should leave Sandino with us, and told
me that Spencer and myself would be expected to act as
interpreters, otherwise Captain Boling could not make San-
dino available as a guide or interpreter, as he cannot speak
a word of English.

" As surgeon to the expedition, I will see that you are
paid extra. The endurance of those appointed, has been
tried and found wanting; therefore I preferred to leave
them behind." The Major then left us for head-quarters,
which he would reach before night.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 113

Captain Boling crossed the North Fork below the falls,
but after a few horses had passed over the trail, the bottom
land became almost impassable. As I had noticed an old
trail that crossed just above the falls, I shouted to the rear
guard to follow me, and started for the upper crossing,
which I reached some little distance in advance. Spurring
my mule I dashed through the stream. As she scrambled
up the green sod of the slippery shore I was just opening
my mouth for a triumphant whoop, when the sod from the
overhanging bank gave way under the hind feet of the
mule, and, before she could recover, we sli])ped backwards
into the stream, and were being swept down over the falls.
Comprehending the imminent peril, I slipped from my sad-
dle with the coil of my " riata " clasped in hand (fortunately
I had acquired the habit of leaving the rope upon the mule's
neck), and, by an eflfort, I was able to reach the shore with
barely length of rope enough to take one turn around a sap-
pling and then one or two turns around the rope, and by
this means I was able to arrest the mule in her progress,
with her hind legs projecting over the falls, where she re-
mained, her head held out of the water by the rope. I held
her in this position until my comrades came up and re-
lieved me, and the mule from her most pitiable position.
This was done by attaching another rope, by means of
which it was drawn up the stream to the shore, where she
soon recovered her feet and was again ready for service.
Not so my medicines and surgical instruments, which were
attached to the saddle.

While Captain Boling was closing up his scattered com-
mand, I took the opportunity to examine my damaged stores
and wring out my blankets. Being thus engaged, and out
of sight of the main column, they moved on without us.
I hastily dried my instruments, and seeing that my rifle
had also suffered, I hastily discharged and reloaded it. We
8

114 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

passed over the stream below the falls, and were galloping
to overtake the command, when I discovered a detachment
with Captain Boling at the head, riding rapidly up the trail
toward ns. As we met, the Captain returned my saluta-
tion with ''Hallo, Doc, what the devil is the matter?" I
explained the cause of our delay and the reason for the dis-
charge of my rifle, when the Captain said: "We heard the
report of your rifle, and I thought you were about to have
a quilting party of your own, for I knew you would not
waste lead foolishly, so came back to have a hand in the
game." I apologized for tiring without orders and for caus-
ing anxiety; but said, that to be frank, I had thought that
my rifle being so wet, would only "squib." He good humor-
edly replied, '* I am glad I found nothing worse, for you
have had a narrow escape, and I think we had now better
keep closed up."

We soon overtook the command which was following the
main trail to the upper San Joaquin. Crossing the aflSu-
ent tributaries of the North Fork, we finally reached a
branch now known as the Little San Joaquin. Here we
again camped for the third time since leaving head-quarters.
Lieutenant Chandler and a few of our most experienced
scouts were detailed and sent out on duty. Captain Boling
with a small guard accompanied Chandler for some distance
out on the trail, and after exploring the vicinity of the
camp and taking a look at "Battle Mountain" to the west-
ward of us, returned without having discovered any fresher
signs than had been seen by the scouts. That night the
camp-guard was strengthened and relieved every hour, that
there might be no relaxation of vigilance. A little before
daybreak. Lieutenant Chandler and his scouts came in, and
reported that they had discovered a number of camp fires,
and a big pow-wow, on the main San Joaquin river. Satis-
fied that Indians were there assembled in force, and that

AND INDIAN WAU OF 1851, 115

tliej were probably holding a war-dance, they returned at

once to report their discovery.

The camp was quietly aroused, and after a hasty break-
fast in the early dawn, we mounted. Before giving the
order to march, Captain Boling thought it advisable to give
us a few words of caution and general orders in case we
should suddenly meet the enemy and engage in battle.
Thinking it would be more impressive if delivered in a for-
mal manner, he commenced: " Fellow citizens! " (a pause,)
"fellow soldiers!" (a longer pause,) "comrades," tremu-
lously; but instantly recovering himself, promptly said: "In
€o/uius{o7i, all 1 have to say, boys, is, that I hope I shall
fight better than I speak." The Captain joined with his
" fellow citizens " in the roar of laughter, amidst which he
gave the order " march," and we started for the San Joa-
quin at a brisk trot.

No better or braver man rode with our battalion. His
popularity was an appreciation of his true merit. On
this occasion he was conscious of the responsibility of his
position, and, for a moment his modesty overcame him.
Although his speech lacked the l^ady flow of language, it
eloquently expressed to his men the feelings of their Cap-
tain, and we comprehended what he designed to say.* A
short ride brought us in sight of the main river. As we
drew near to it a party of about one hundred Indians were
discovered drawn up as if to give us battle, but we soon
found their line had been established on the opposite side
of the stream ! while the swelling torrent between us seemed
impassable. Our scouts discovered a bark rope stretched
across the river, just above the mouth of the South Fork,
which had been quite recently used. Their scouts had un-

* In some way unaccountable to me, this speech appears in my article
in Hutcbing's work, as if delivered before the fight at '* Battle Moun-
tain."

] 16 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

doubtedlj discovered our rapid approach, and in their haste
to report the fact, had neglected to remove this rope, by
means of which, the crossing was made. The Indians of
Northern climes are equally expert in crossing streams.
In winter, they sprinkle sand upon the smooth ice, in order
to cross their unshod ponies. The discovery of the rope be-
ing reported to Cajitain Boling, he proposed to utilize it by
establishing a temporary ferry of logs. On examination, the
rope was found to be too slender to be of practical use, but
was employed to convey across a stronger one, made from
our picket ropes or '' riatas," tied together and twisted.

•Two of our best swimmers crossed the river above the
narrows, and pulled our rope across by means of the bark
one. To protect the men on the opposite side, Captain
Middleton, Joel H. Brooks, John Kenzie and a few other
expert riflemen, stood guard over them. A float was made
of dry logs while the rope was being placed in position, and
this was attached to the one across the stream by means of
a rude pulley made from the crotch of a convenient sapling.
By this rude contrivance, we crossed to and fro without ac-
c'dent. The horses and baggage were left on the right
bank in charge of a small but select camp guard. As we
commenced the ascent of the steep aclivity to the table
above, where we had seen the Indians apparently awaiting
our approach, great care was taken to keep open order.
We momentarily expected to receive the fire of the enemy.
The hill-side was densely covered with brush, and we cau-
tiously threaded our march up through it, until we emerged
into the open ground at the crest of the hill. Here, not
an Indian was in sight to welcome or threaten our arrival.
They had probably fled as soon as they witnessed our cross-
ing. Captain Boling felt disappointed; but immediately
sent out an advance skirmish liue, while we moved in
closer order upon the village in sight, which we afWwai-ds

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 117

found to be that of Jose Key. Arrived there, we found it
forsaken. This village was beautifully situated upon an el-
evated table lying between the South Fork and the main
river. It overlooked the country oa all sides except the
rear, which could have only been approached through the
rugged canons of the forks. It would therefore have been
impossible for us to surprise it. We found that the In-
dians had left nothing of value but the stores of acorns
near by. Captain Boling's countenance expressed his feel-
ings, with regard to our lack of success. He ordered the
lodges to be destroyed with all the supplies that could be
discovered.

While entering the village, we had observed upon a little
knoll, the remnant of what had been a large fire; a bed of
live coals and burning brands of manzanita-wood still re-
mained. The ground about it indicated that there had been
a large gathering for a burial-dance and feast, and for other
rites due the departed; and therefore, I surmised that there
had been a funeral ceremony to honor the remains of some
distinguished member of the tribe. I had the curiosity to
examine the heap and found that I was correct. On raking
open the ashes of the funeral-pyre, the calcined bones were
exposed, along with trinkets and articles of various kinds,
such as arrow-heads of difi'erent shapes and sizes, for the
chase and for warfare; a knife-blade, a metal lookino-.Mass
frame, beads and other Articles melted into a mass. From
these indications — having a knowledge of Indian customs
— I inferred that the deceased was probably a person of
wealth and distinction in Indian society. Calling Sandino
to the spot, I pointed out to him my discoveries. Devout-
ly crossing himself, he looked at the mass I had raked from
the ashes, and exclaimed: ^' Jose Rey, ah! he is dead!" I
asked how he knew that it was the body of Jose Eey that
had been burned. He said: (picking up the knife-blade)

lis DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

" This was the knife of Jose Rej." He then told me " that
a chief's property was known to all of liis people and to
many other tribes. That many had been here to take part
in the funeral ceremonies, and only a great chief would
have so many come to do honor to his remains; besides we
have known for a longtime that he would die." I reported
this statement to Captain Boling, who thought it was cor-
rect. It was afterwards confirmed by some of the followers
of the dead chief

Sandino was or had been a Mission Indian, and prided
himself on being a good Catholic. I asked liim why the
Indians burnt the bodies of their dead. He replied after
devoutl}^ crossing himself, for no Indian will wilLngly speak
of their dead. "The Gentiles (meaning the wild Indians)
burn the bodies to liberate the spirit from it." After again
crossing himself, ''We being Christians by the favor of
God, are not compelled to do this duty to our dead. They
enter into the spirit-world through the virtue of the blood
of Christ; " then with his face gleaming with religious fer-
vor, he said, *'0h! is not this a great blessing — no labor^
no pain^and where all have plenty .'^'^ On a more intimate
acquaintance with Sandino, I found that he had an implicit
belief in all the superstitions of his race, but that the saving
grace of the blood of Christ was simply superior to their
charms and incantations.

My experience among other Indians, particularly the
Sioux, Chippewa, and other tribes that have long had mis-
sionaries among them, leads me to the conclusion that San-
dino's views of Christianity will not be found to difier
materially from those of many others converted. I after-
wards had a much more satisfactory conversation with
"Eussio," who verified Sandino's statement concerning
their belief, and object in burning their dead. This Chief
also gave me in detail some of their traditions and mythol-
ogies, which I shall reserve for future description.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 119

Our scouts reported that the fresh trails followed by them
led to the main trail up the canon of the river. Every-
thing having been set on fire that would burn, we followed
in pursuit toward the " High Sierras." Before starting the
scouts that had gone up the South Fork canon were called
in, and we lightened our haversacks by taking a hasty but
hearty lunch. We followed the trail continuously up,
passed a rocky, precipitous point, that had terminated in a
ridge at the rear of the village, and pursuing it rapidly for
several miles, we suddenly found that the traces we had been
following disappeared. We came to a halt, and retracing
our steps, soon found that they had left the trail at some
bare rocks, but it was impossible to trace them farther
in any direction. Sandino expressed the opinion that the
Indians had crossed the river; and pointing across the
foaming rapids said: "They have gone there!" He was
denounced by the scouts for this assertion, and they swore
that " an otter would drown if he attempted to swim in
such a place." Captain Boling asked: "Is he a coward
afraid of an ambush, or is he trying to shield his people by
discouraging our advance?" After Spencer and myself had
talked with him a few moments, we both expressed our
faith in his loyalty, and told the Captain that we thought
he was sincere in the opinion expressed, that the Indians
had crossed to the other side. I stated that I did not think
it impossible for them to do so, as they were all most excel-
lent swimmers. That I had seen the Yumas of the Colo-
rado river dive, time after time, and bring up fish caught
with their bare hands, and perform other seemingly impos-
sible feats. I would not, therefore, denounce Sandino
without some proof of treachery. Captain Boling was not
convinced, however, by my statements. It was decided
that the Chow-chil-las had not crossed the river, and that
we should probably find their trail further on.

120 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

With scouts in advance, we resumed our march up the
canon. The trail was rough, and, in places, quite precipi-
tous; but we followed on until reaching a point in the canon
where we should expect to iind " signs,^^ for there was no
choice of routes, but this only trail up the canon had not
been used by any one; and the advance were found await-
ing the Captain's arrival at the gorge. The Captain was
puzzled, and ordered a halt. A council was held, about as
satisfactory as tlie other had been, but all agreed in the con-
clusion that the Indians had beaten us in wood craft, and
had artfully thrown us from their trail; though their signal
fires were still to be seen at intervals on the high rocky
points of the river. This was a common mode of commu-
nication among them. By a peculiar arrangement of these
fires during the night, and by the smoke from them during
the day, they are able to telegraph a system of secret cor-
respondenco to those on the look out. An arrow, shot into
the body of a tree at a camp ground, or along a trail; or
the conspicuous arrangement of a bent busli or twig, often
shows the direction to be traveled. A bunch of grass,
tied to a stick and left at the fork of a stream or trail, or at
a deserted camp, performed the same service. Upon the
treeless deserts or plains, a mark upon the ground, by camp
or trail, gave the required information; thus proving that
these people possess considerable intelligent forethought.

After looking at the signal fires for some time, Captain
Boling said; " Gentlemen, there is one tiling 1 can beat
these fellows at, and that is in building fires. We will go
back to the crossing, and from there commence a new cam-
paign. We will build fires all over the mountains, so that
these Indians will no longer recognize their own signals.
We will make ours large enough to burn all the acorns and
other provender we can find. In a word, we are forced in-
to a mode of warfare unsuited to my taste or manhood, but

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 121

this campaign has convinced me of the utter folly of at-
tempting to subdue them unless we destroy their supplies
of all kinds. Gentlemen,you can take my word for it, they
do not intend to fight us, or they would have tried to stop
us at the crossing, where they had every advantage."

There is no point in the mountains more easy to defend
than their village. It was located most admirably. If the}'
had the liglit in them, that was claimed by Major Savage
and the Indians at head-quai-ters, we could never have
crossed the river or approached their village. Their cour-
age must have died with Jose Rey. His courage must have
been su]>posed to be that of the tribe. They have become
demoralized, being left without the energy of the chief.
Their warlike nature is a humbug. Talk about these In-
dians defeating and driving back the Spanish Californians,
after raiding their ranches, as has been told! If they did,
they must have driven back bigger cowards than themselves,
who have run away without even leaving a trail by which
they can be followed. I don't believe it." The Captain
delivered this serio-comic discourse while seated on a rock,
with most inimitable drollery; and at my suggestion that
they might perhaps yet show themselves, he replied rather
impatiently: "Nonsense, they will not exhibit themselves
to-day I " and with this convincing remark, he ordered our
return.

As we filed away from the narrow gorge, those left in
rear reported "Indians!" Instinctively turning, we dis-
covered on the opposite side of the river, a half dozen or
more, not encumbered with any kind of garment. A halt
was called, and Chandler and a number of others instantly
raised their rifles for a shot. Thev were within range, for
the canon was here quite nari-ow, but the Captain promptly
said: "No firing, men! I am anxious for success, but would
rather go back without a captive, than have one of those

122 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

Indians killed, unless," he added after a moment's pause,
" they are fools enough to shoot at us." Just at the con-
clusion of this order, and as if in burlesque applause of the
sentiment expressed by the Captain, the savages com-
menced slapping their naked swarthy bodies in a derisive
manner.

The laugh of our men was parried by the Captain, and
although annoyed by this unexpected demonstration, he
laughingly remarked that he had never before been so pecu-
liarly applauded for anything he had ever said. The ab-
surdity of the scene restored us all to a better humor.
Again the order was given to inarch, and we resumed our
course down the cailon, with the renewed demonstrations
of the Indians. The orders of the Captain alone prevented
a return salute, which would have promptly checked their
offensive demonstrations.

At the precipice, which we had so guardedly passed on
our way up the canon, we came near losing our Captain.
In passing this locality he made a mis-step, and slipped to-
wards the yawning abyss at the foot of the cliff; but for a
small pine that had been "moored in the rifted rock," no
earthly power could have saved him from being dashed to
the bottom. He fortunately escaped witli some severe
bruises, a lacerated elbow and a sprained wrist. This acci-
dent and our tired and disappointed condition, gave a more
serious appearance to our line, and a more sombre tone to
our conversations than was usual. We reached camp in a
condition, however, to appreciate the supper prepared by
our guard.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 123

CHAPTEK YIII.

A Camp Discussion — War or Police Clubs — Jack Regrets a Lost Opportu-
nity— Boling-'s Soothing- Syrup — A Scribe Criticises and Apologises —
Indian War Material and its Manufacture — The Fire-stick and its Sa-
cred Uses — Arrival at Head- quarters.

It was not until after we bad partaken of a hearty snp-
per and produced onr pipes, that tlie lively hum of conver-
sation and the occasional careless laughter indicated the
elastic temperament of some of the hardy, light-hearted, if
not light-headed, "boys," while in camp. The guard was
duly detailed, and the signal given to turn in, but not au-
thoritatively; and tired as we were, many of us sat quite
late around the camp-fires on that evening. The excite-
ments and disappointments of our recent excursion did not
prove to be promoters of sleep; some of us were too tired
to ^leep until we had somewhat rested from our unusual fa-
tigue. The events of the day — the t^^tie method of subdu-
ing Indians^ and the probable results of the plans proposed
by Captain Boling for future operations in this vicinity,
were the general topics of conversation among the different
groups. Tins general inclination to discuss the " pence pol-
icy" of the commissioners and the plans of our officers, did
not arise from anything like a mutinous disposition, nor from
any motives having in view the least opposition to any of
the measures connected with the campaign in which we were
then engaged.

124: DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

We had expected that this tribe would resist onr invasion
of their territory and show fight. In this we had been dis-
appointed. The self-confident and experienced mountain
men, and the ex-rangers from the Texan plains, felt annoy-
ed that these Indians had escaped when almost within range
of our rifles. Our feelings — as a military organization —
were irritated by the successful manner in which they had
eluded our pursuit, and thrown us from their trail. Wc
had heen outwitted hy these ignorant Indians; but as in-
dividuals, no one seemed inclined to acknowledge it; our
lack of success was attributed to the restraints imposed on
the free movements of our organization by orders of the
commissioners. Although none designed to censure our
Captain for his failure, the free speech intimations, that we
might have been successful, if Major Savage had i-emained
to aid us with his knowledge, was not soothing to the Cap-
tain's already wounded pride. The popularity of Captain
Boling was not affected by our camp-fire discussion. Had
a charge, or intimation even, been made by any one of in-
capacity or neglect of duty in our free expressions, the per-
sonal safety of the individual would have been immediate-
ly endangered; although no excess of modesty was observed
in expressing opinions. Lieut. Chandler was at our own
fire, and our officers talked over the solution of the enigma
in a quiet conversational tone. The usual cheerful counte-
nance of the Captain had a more serious expression. His
attention was as much attracted to the groups around us,
as to the remarks of Lt. Chandler.

The energetic Lieutenant was our most rigid disciplinarian
when on duty. His fearless impetuosity in the execution
of all his duties, made him a favorite with the more reckless
spirits; his blunt and earnest manner excited their admira-
tion; for, though possessed of a sublime egotism, he was
entirely free from arrogance. Instead of his usual cheerful

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 125

and agreeable conversation, he was almost morosely taciturn ;
lie refilled his capacious mouth with choice Yirginia, and
settled back against the wood-pile. After listening to us
for a while, he said: "I am heartily sick of this Quaker-
stjde of subduing Indians. So far, — since our muster-in —
we have had plenty of hard work and rough experience,
with no honor or profit attending it all. We might as well
be armed with clubs like any other police." There was
none in our group disposed to dispute the assertion of
Chandler. As a body, we were anxiously desirous of bring-
ing the Indian troubles to a close as soon as it could be
practically accomplished. Many of us had sufiered pecu-
niarily from the depredations of these Mountain tribes,
and had volunteered to aid in subduing them, that we might
be able to resume our mining operations in peace. Many
of us had left our own profitable private business to engage
in these campaigns for the public good, expecting that a
vigorous prosecution of the war would soon bring it to a
close. I will here say that some sensational newspaper
correspondents took it upon themselves to condemn this
efibrt made by the settlers to control these mountain tribes,
which had become so dangerous; charging the settlers with
having excited a war, and to have involved the government
in an unneccessary expense, for the purpose of reaping
pecuniary benefits; and that our battalion had been organ-
ized to afibrd occupation to adventurous idlers, for the pay
afibrded. Knowing the ignorance that obtains in regard to
real Indian character, and the mistaken philanthropy that
would excuse and probably even protect and lionize murder-
ers, because they were Indians; but little attention w^as at
first paid to these falsely slanderous articles, until one was
published, so personally ofiensive, and with such a false
basis of statement, that Captain Boling felt it his duty to
call for the name of its author. His name was given by

126 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

the editor of the paper on a formal demand being made.
The Captain then intimated through a friend, that a public
retraction of the article was desirable. In due time, the
Captain received a very satisfactory apology, and a slip of
a published retraction of the offensive correspondence.
The investigation developed the fact that the writer — who
was an Eastern philanthropist — had been played upon by
certain parties in Stockton, who had failed to get the con-
tract to supply the battalion.

At an adjoining fire a long-haired Texan was ventilating
his professed experience in the management of Indians
^* down thar." Observing that Captain Boling was within
hearing of his criticism, he turned, and without any inten-
tional disrespect, said: " Cap., you orter a let me plunk
it to one o' them red skins up in the canon thar. I'd a bin
good for one, sure; and if I'd a had my way o' treatin' with
Injuns, Cap., I reckon I'd a made a few o' them squawk by
this time."

Captain Boling was suffering from his bruises and
sprained wrist, and he evidently was not pleased to hear
these liberal criticisms, but knowing the element by which
he was surrounded, he did not forget the policy of concilia-
ting it in order to prevent any feelings of discontent from
arisino^ so soon after bavins: assumed full command. He
therefore quickly replied: " I have no especial regard for
these Chow-chillas; you are probably aware of tliat. Jack; but
the orders and instructions of the Commissioners will have to
be disregarded if we shoot them down at sight. It would
have been almost like deliberate murder to have killed those
naked Indians to-day, becanse, Jack, you know just what
you can do with that rifle of yours. If you had fired you
knew you was sure to kill; but the Indians did not know
the danger there was in coming inside your range. It was
lucky for the cowards that you did not shoot." This allu-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 127

sion to the Texan's skill with his rifle disposed of the sub-
ject as far as he was concerned, for he " turned in," while a
broad grin showed his satisfaction as he replied, "I reckon
you're about on the right trail now, Cap," and disappeared
under his blanket.

Captain Boling sat for some time apparently watching
the blazing logs before him. He took no part in the dis-
cussion of Indian affairs, which continued to be the engros-
sing subject among the wakeful ones, whose numbers grad-
ually diminished until Spencer and one or two others be-
side myself only remained at our fire. The Captain then
said: " I do not despair of success in causing this tribe to
make peace, although I cannot see any very flattering pros-
pects of our being able to corral them, or force an imme-
diate surrender. They do not seem inclined to figlit us, and
we cannot follow them among the rocks in those almost
impassable canons with any probability of taking them.
Bare-footed they rapidly pass without danger over slippery
rocks that we, leather-shod, can only pass at the peril of our
lives. My mishap of to-day is but a sineile illustration of
many that would follow were we to attempt to chase them
along the dizzy heights they pass over. Being lightly clad,
or not at all, they swim the river to and fro at will, and
thus render futile any attempt to pursue them up the river,
unless we divide the force and beat up on both sides at the
same time. I have thought this matter over, and have
reached the conclusion that, unless some lucky accident
throws them into our hands, I see but one course to pur-
sue, and that is to destroy their camps and supplies, and
then return to head-quarters."

After having had the bandages arranged on his swollen
arm he bade us good night, and sought such repose as his
bruised limbs and disappointed ambition would permit.
Having ended our discussions, we came to the sage conclu-

128 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

sion that Captain Boling was in command, and duty re-
quired our obedience to his orders. Satisfied with this de-
cision, we readily dropped off to sleep.

The next morning the usual jocular hilarity seemed to
prevail in camp. A refreshing slumber had seemingly given
renewed vigor to the tired explorers of the rough trail up
the canon. The camp guard assigned to duty at "our fer-
ry" were on duty during the night, so tliat the breakfast call
was promptly responded to with appetites unimpaired.
Captain Boling's arm was dressed and found to be somewhat
improved in appearance, though very sore. He would not
consent to remain in camp, and ordered his horse to be sad-
dled after breakfast. Before the morning sun liad risen we
were in our saddles, endeavoring to explore the region north
of the San Joaqnin. Small detachments were detailed from
both companies to explore, on foot, up the Soutli Fork, and
the territory adjacent. Upon the return of this command,
their report showed that quite a large number of Indians
had passed over that stream, though none were seen. A
considerable supply of acorns was found and destroj^ed by
this expedition; but after they left the oak table-land, near
the fork, they reported the country to the east to be about
as forbidding as that on the main river. Captain Boling
detailed a few footmen to scatter over the country on the
north side, to burn any caches they might find, while we on
horseback swept farther north, towards the Black Ridge.
We found the soil soft and yielding, and in places it was
with difficulty that our weak, gra s-fed animals could pass
over the water-soaked land, even after we had dismounted.
I thought this boggy ground, bard enough later in the sea-
son, another obstacle to a successful pursuit, and so expressed
myself to the Captain. I told him that in '49 I stayed over
night with Mr. Livermore of the Livermore Pass, and that
now I fully comprehended why he thought the mountain

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

129

tribes could not be entirely subdued, because, as he said,
" they will not fight except sure of victory, and cannot be
caught."

Mr. Livermore said he had followed up several raiding
parties of Indiaus who were driving off stock they had
stolen from the Ranches, but only upon one occasion did
they make a bold stand, when his party was driven back,
overcome by numbers. Captain Boling was silent for some
time, and then said: "Perhaps after all I have done these

Indians injustice in calling
them cowards; probably they
feel that they are not called
upon to fight and lose any of
their braves, when by strategy
they can foil and elude us.
Human nature is about alike
in war as in other thin^^s; it is
governed by what it conceives
to be its interest."

There were in the country
we passed over, some beau-
tiful mountain meadows and
most luxuriant forests, and
^ome of the sloping table lands
looked like the ornamental
parks of an extensive domain.
These oak - clad tables and
ridges, were the harvest fields
of the San Joaquin Indians,
and in their vicinity we found
an occasional group of deserted huts. These, with their
adjacent supplies of acorns, were at once given to the flames.
The acorns found and destroyed by the scouting parties,
were variously estimated at from eight hundred to one thou-
9

CACHES OR INDIAN ACORN
STOREHOUSES.

130 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

sand bushels; beside the supply of Pinon pine-nuts and
other supplies hoarded for future use. The pine-nuts were
not all destroyed by fire; most of them were confiscated,
and served as a dessert to many a roast.

From the total amount of acorns estimated to have been
destroyed, their supplies were comparatively small, or the
number of Indians on the San Joaquin had been, as in
other localities, vastly overrated. Our search was thor-
oughly made — the explorations from day to day, extend-
ing from our camps over the whole country to an altitude
above the growth of the oaks. During these expeditions,
not an Indian was seen after those noticed on the upper
San Joaquin; but fresh signs were often discovered and
followed, only to be traced to the rocky canons above
where, like deceptive " ignes fatui^'^ they disappeared.

Being allowed the largest liberty as surgeon to the expe-
dition, I had ample time to examine the various things
found in their camps, and obtain from Sandino all the infor-
mation I could concerning them. The stone arrow-heads
and their manufacture, especially interested me. I found
considerable quantities of the crude material from which
they were made, with many other articles brought from
other localities, such as resin, feathers, skins, pumice-stone,
salt, etc., used in the manufacture of their implements of
war, and for the chase as well as for domestic uses.

At this time but few guns were in the possession of these
mountain tribes. Their chief weapons of war and for tlie
chase were bows and arrows. With these they were very
expert at short range, and to make their weapons effective
were disposed to lay in ambush in w^ar, and upon the trails
of their game. Their bows were made from a species of
yew peculiar to the West, from cedar and from a spinated
evergreen tree, rare in Southern California, which, for want
of scientific classification, I gave the name of " nutmeg

AND INDIAN WAU OF 1851, 131

pine." It bears a nut resembling in general appearance
that agreeable S23ice, while the covering or pulpy shell looks
very much like mace. The nut is, however, strongly im-
pregnated with resin. The leaves are long, hard, and so
sharp that the points will pierce the flesh like sharp steel.
The wood is stronger and more elastic than either the yew,
cedar or fir. It is susceptible of a fine polish. I made a
discovery of a small cluster of this species of tree at the
foot of the cascades in the caiion, two miles below the
Yosemite valley, while engaged in a survey of that locality.*

The shafts of their arrows are made of reeds, and from
different species of wood, but the choicest are made of what
is called Indian arrow- wood (Le Ilamite). This wood is only
found in dark ravines and deep rocky canons in the moun-
tains, as it seems to require dampness and shade. Its scar-
city makes the young shoots of a proper growth a very val-
uable article of barter between the mountain tribes and
those of the valleys and plains. A locality in the Yosemite
valley once famous for its supply of this arrow-wood, was
the ravine called by the Yosemites " Le-Hamite," (as we
might say " the oaks," or " the pines,") but which is now
designated as " Indian Canon."

Their arrow-shafts are first suitably shaped, and then pol-
ished between pieces of pumice stone. This stone was also
used in fashioning and polishing their bows, spear-shafts
and war clubs. Pumice stone is found in abundance in the
volcanic regions of California and Oregon, and east of the
Sierra Nevada. The quality of the best observed by me,
was much finer and lighter than that seen in the shops as
an article of commerce. The arrow heads are secured to
the shaft by threads of sinew, and a species of cement used

* I have learned through the kindness of Dr. A. Kellogg-, of the Cali-
fornia Academy of Sciences, that this tree is now known as the " Torreya
Calif ornica.''

132 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

for that and other purposes. The arrow-heads made and in
most common use by the California Indians, as well as by
many other tribes in the mountain ranges of the West and
Southwest, are of the same shape and general appearance,
and of similar material, with the exception of obsidian and
old junk bottles, as the arrow heads found in all parts of the
United States. They have been generally supposed to have
been made and used by the pre-historic races that once in-
habited this continent. The bow and arrows were in com-
mon use by the aborigines when America was first discov-
ered, and their use has been continued to the present time
among the tribes whose limited territories were not to any
extent intruded upon by the whites.

The Indians of California, unlike those of Southern Mex-
ico and South America, who use the woorara (strychnos
toxifera), poison their arrow-heads with the poison of the
rattlesnake. Some animal's liver is saturated with the poi-
son and left until it reaches a state of thorough decomposi-
tion, when the barbs are plunged into the festering mass,
withdrawn and dried. The gelatinous condition of the liv-
er causes the poison to adhere to the stone, and the strength
of the poison is thus preserved for some days. Only those
arrow-heads that are inserted into a socket, and held in
place by cement, are thus poisoned. These are easily de-
tached after striking an object (the concussion shattering
the cement, and the play of the shaft loosening the barb),
and are left to rankle in the wound.

According to Kussio, however, this practice is now sel-
dom resorted to, except in revenge for some great or fancied
injury, or by the more malignant of a tribe, Indian policy
seeming to discountenance a former custom.

The introduction ot fii-e arms among them, has been from
the frontiers of civilization. The '^^m^," or more properly
cherty rock, when first quarried, is brittle and readily split

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 133

and broken into the desired shapes required, even with the
rude implements used by the Indians; tliough it is not
probable that any but themselves could use them, as con-
siderable skill seems to be required. The tool commonly
used in the manufacture of arrow-heads, is a species of
hammer or pick, made by fastening the sharp prong of a
deer's horn to a long stick.

With these instruments of various sizes laminated pieces
of rock are separated, snch as slate, with qnartz in filtra-
tion s, and scales are chipped from rocks, volcanic and other
glass, with a skill that challenges admiration. Stone ham-
mers, or pieces of hard stone, were secured by withes and
used in some of the processes of flaking; and I have been
assured that steel implements have been stolen from the
miners and used lor the same purpose, but I never saw
them nsed. Arrow-heads were found, made from bones,
from chert, obsidian or volcanic glass, and even old junk
bottles, obtained for the purpose, during their gushing days,
from the deserted camps of the libative miners.

The most approved tire- arms are now found among many
of the western tribes, where but a few years ago bows and
arrows were in common use. Although these hereditary
implements of war and of the chase are almost wholly dis-
carded, occasionally an old-fashioned Indian may be seen,
armed with his bow and arrows, his fire-stick a foot long,
occupying the hole punctured in the lobe of one ear, and
his reed-pipe tilling the like position in the other, while
his skunk-skin pouch contained his kin-ne-kin-nick, a piece
of spunk and dry charred cedar, on which a light was ob-
tained by rapid friction with his tire-stick. This method
of procuring fire, has, even among the Indians, been super-
seded by the flint and steel, and they in turn by the labor-
saving friction matches.

I have, however, recently witnessed the process of light-

134

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ing a fire by this primitive process, among the priests of the
Winnebago and other eastern tribes, who still use and pre-
serve the fire-stick in making fire for their sacred rites, dur-
ing which they chant in a traditionary Indian dead language,
an interpretation of which they do not pretend they are able
to make. The priests told me that bad spirits would inter-
fere with their ministrations if they did not preserve the
customs of their fathers, and tliat the dead language made
their ceremonies all the more impressive and awe-inspiring
to their auditors.

During our explora-
tions up the San Joa-
quin and branches,
the rapidly melting
snow on the moun-
tains above flooded
the streams which we
were required to cross
in our excursions, and
we were often com-
pelled from this cause
to leave our horses
and proceed on foot;
hence our work was
toilsome and slow.

As soon as Captain
Boling was satisfied
that we had accomplished, in this locality, all that could
be expected of his command, we started for head-quarters.
The route selected for our return was by way of "Fine
Gold Gulch," and down the San Joaquin to a camp oppo-
site the site of Fort Miller, that was about being estab-
lished for the protection of the settlers. This was done
upon recommendaticiU of the commissioners.

FIRE STICK AS USED.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 135

CHAPTER IX.

Starvation subdaes the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace— Captain
Kuykendall's Expeditions— An Attack— Rout and Pursuit- A Wise
Conclusion — Freezing out Indians — A wild Country — A terrific View
— Yosemite versus King's River— Submission of the Indians South
of the San Joaquin — Second Expedition to Yosemite — Daring Scouts
— Capture of Indians— Naming of " Three Brothers."

A FEW days after our return from the campaign against
the Chow-chil-las, asmall delegation from a Kah-we-ah band
on King's river was sent in by Captain Kuykendall, whose
energy had subdued nearly all of the Indians in his depart-
ment. The chief of this band informed Major Savage that
Tom-kit and Frederico, successors in authority to Jose Rey,
had visited his camp, and had reported that they were very
hungry. They came, they said, to hold a council. The
chief told the Major that he had advised them to come in
with him and make a treaty, but they refused. They said
the white man's "medicine" was too powerful for them;
but if their great chief had not died, he would have driven
the white men from the mountains, for he was "a heap
wise." The white soldiers liad killed their great chief; they
had killed many of their best warriors; they had burned up
their huts and villages and destroyed their supplies, and
had tried to drive their people from their territory, and
they would kill their women and children if they did not
hide them where they could not be found; and much more
in a similar vein.

A small supply of acorns had been given these fugitives,

136 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

and when the chief left, they had promised to return and
hear what the commissioners had said. Major Savage re-
ported this, and with the commissioners' approval, decided
to return with the Kah-we-ah chief and meet in counsel
with the Chow-chil-las. He took with him sufficient "beef"
on foot to give the Indians a grand feast, which lasted sev-
eral days; during which time arrangements were completed
for treaties with all of the remaining bands of the Kah-we-
ah tribe, and with the Chow-chillas. The result of the
Major's negotiations were in the highest degree satisfactory.
Captain Boling, however, claimed some of the honor, for,
said he, I defeated the Chow-chillas hj firing at long range.
This once tm*bulent and uncompromising tribe became
the most tractable of the mountain Indians. They were
superior in all respects to those of most other tribes.
They had intimate relations with the Monos, a light col-
ored race as compared with the Yalley or Kah-we-ah tribe,
and were very expert in the manufacture and use of the
bow and arrow. The Mono's had intermarried with the
Ohow-chil-las, and they aided them in their intercourse
with the Pah-u-tes in their barter for salt, obsidian, lava and
other commodities. The Chow-chil-las now being disposed
of, and a treaty signed by the other tribes, it was decided
by the commissioners that our next expedition should be
against the Yo-sem-i-tes. This had been recommended by
Major Savage as the only practical method of effecting any
terms with their old Chief Every inducement had been
offered them that had been successful with the others; but
had been treated with contempt. The liberal supplies of
beef they refused, saying they preferred horse-flesh. The
half-civilized garbs and gaudy presents tendered at the
agency were scorned by Ten-ie-ya as being no recompense
for relinquishing the freedom of his mountain home. Ma-
jor Savage announced that the expedition would start as

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 137

soon as the floods had somewhat subsided, so that the
streams could be crossed. As for ourselves, we had learned
to take advantage of any narrow place in a stream, and hy
means of ropes stretched for feet and hands, we crossed
without diflScnltj streams that we could not ford with
horses. As this delay would allow an opportunity for some
of the battalion to see to such private business as required
their attention, short furloughs were granted to those most
anxious to improve this occasion.

While the companies of Captains Boling and Dill were
exploriuir the vicinities of the Merced and San Joaquin in
search of Indians, Captain Kuykend .11, with the able sup-
port of his Lieutenants and his company, were actively en-
gaged in the same duties south of the San Joaquin. Captain
Kuykendall vigorously operated in the valleys, foot-hills
and mountains of the King's and Kah-we-ah rivers, and
those of the smaller streams south. The Indians of Kern
river, owing to the influence of a mission Chief, "Don-Yin-
cente," who had a plantation at the Tehon pass, remained
peaceful, and were not disturbed. The success of Captain
Kuykendall's campaigns enabled the commissioners to make
treaties with all the tribes within the Tulare valley, and
those that occupied the region south of the San Joaquin
river.

Owing to lapse of time since these events, and other
causes, I am unable to do justice to him, or the officers and
men under him. My personal recollections of the inci-
dents of his explorations, were acquired while exchanging
stories around camp fires. Operating as they did, among
the most inaccessible mountains in California, with but one
company, they successfully accomplished the duties assign-
ed them.

It was supposed that some of the tribes and bands among
whom they were sent were extremely hostile to the whites,

138 DISCOVERY OE THE YOSEMITE,

and that they would combine and resist their approach; but
after a single engagement on King's river, the Indians
were put to flight without the loss of a man, and could not
be induced to hazard another like encounter. The plans of
operation were similar to those of Captains Boling and
Dill: the destruction of the camps of all who refused to
come in and have a talk with the commissioners. Cap-
tain Kuykendall's company found these people almost with-
out fire-arms and civilized clothing of any kind, and
depending wholly on their bows and arrows. Except in the
vicinity of King's and Kah-we-ah rivers, the savages were
scattered over a large range of country. Their camps were
generally in the valleys and among the foot-hills; when
alarmed, they fled to the rocky canons among the moun-
tains. In one of our conversations, during a visit of Cap-
tain Kuykendall to the Fresno, he said: "When we first
started out, we learned from our scouts and guides, that a
large body of Indians had collected well np on King's river.
Making a rapid march, we found, on arriving in sight, that
they were inclined to give us battle. We at once charged
into their camp, routed and killed a number, while others
were ridden down and taken prisoners. We followed the
fugitives, making a running fight, until compelled to leave
our horses, when they eluded pursuit. Eot yet discourag-
ed, we followed on toward the head waters of the Kah-we-
ah, seeing occasionally, upon a ridge just ahead of us,
groups of Indians; but upon our reaching thai locality,
they were resting on the next ridge; and as we came into
view, turned their backs upon us, applauding our efforts to
overtake them, in a \qvj peculiar manner. They fled into
a worse country than anything before seen in our explora-
tions, and I soon perceived the folly of attempting to follow
them longer. As to this region east and southeast of the
termination of our pursuit, 1 have only this to say, that it

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 139

is simply indescribable. I did not see any ' dead Indians '
after leaving the village, and during the pursuit, although
some of the boys were sure they had ' fetched their man.' It
is certain that a number were killed in the assault, but how
many, we were unable to ascertain, for upon our return, as
usual, the dead had been carried off. We lost no men in
the fight, and had but one wounded. The wound was very
painful, having been inflicted by one of the glass arrow-
heads that it is designed shall be left rankling in the wound;
but after that was extracted, the wound soon healed without
serious results."

After this chase on foot into the " High Sierras," the
operations of Capt. Kuykendall were more limited, for, as he
had stated, he regarded it as the height of folly to attempt
to follow the lightly-armed and lighter clad "hostiles " with
cavalry, into their rocky mountain retreats. In the saddle,
except a few sailors in his company, his men felt at home,
and were willing to perform any amount of severe duty,
however dangerous or difficult it might be, but on foot, the
Texans, especially, were like "Jack ashore, without anything
to steer by." When required to take a few days, provisions
and their blankets on their backs, their efforts, like those of
our command, were not very effective, so far as catching
the natives was concerned. These foot expeditions were
designed by the officers to keep the enemy alarmed, and in
the cold regions, while their supplies were being destroyed
by the mounted force ranging below. By this strategy.
Captain Kuykendall kept his men constantly occupied, and
at the same time displayed his genius as a soldier.

His foot expeditions were generally made by a few en-
thusiastic scouts, who were as much induced to volunteer
to perform this duty fi-om a love of nature as from a desire
to fight. Here were found

140 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

*' The pala,ces of Nature, whose vast walls

Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,

And throned eternity in icy halls

Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls

The avalanche — the thunderbolt of snow!

All that expands the spirit, yet appals,

Gather around these summits, as to show
How earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below."

The stories told by the men in Kuykendall's command
were received with doubts, or as exaggerations. Their de-
scriptions represented deeper valleys and higher cliffs than
had been seen and described by sconts of the other com-
panies. It was intimated by ns, who had previously de-
scribed the region of the Yosemite, '^ that the man who told
the first story in California stood a poor chance." Having
read Professor J. D. Whitney's reports of that region, I can
better appreciate the reports of Captain Kuykendall and
those under him, of the character of the mountain territory
to which they had been assigned. Mr. Whitney, State Geo-
logist, in speaking of the geological survey of this vicinity,
says: "Of the terrible grandeur of the region embraced
in this portion of the Sierra, it is hardly possible to convey
any idea. Mr. Gardner, in his notes of the view from Mount
Brewer, thus enumerates some of the most striking features
of the scene: ' Canons from two to five thousand feet deep,
between thin ridges topped with pinnacles sharp as needles;
successions of great crater-like amphitheatres, with crown-
ing precipices, over-sweeping snow-fields and frozen lakes,
everywhere naked and shattered granite without a sign of
vegetation, except where a few gnarled and storm-beaten
pines * * -^ cling to the rocks in the deeper canons; such
were the elements of the scene we looked down upon, while
cold gray clouds were drifting overhead.' "

This description applies more properly to the territory
east of any point reached by Captain Kuykendall, but it

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 141

verifies the statements made by liim and those of some of
his men.

While on our second expedition to the Yosemite, some of
Captain KuykendalPs company, who had come to headquar-
ters and had been allowed the privileges, volunteered to ac-
company our supply train, as they said : " To see what
kind of a country we were staying in." One, an enthusi-
astic lover of nature, said on his return : " The King's river
country, and the territory southeast of it, beats the Yosem-
ite in terrific grandeur, but in sublime beauty you have got
us." As the furloughs granted to the members of B. and
C. companies expired, all promptly reported for duty, and
preparations were completed for another campaign against
the Yo Semites.

Captain Dill, with part of his company, was retained
on duty at headquarters, while Lt. Gilbert with a detach-
ment of C. Company, was ordered to report for duty to Cap-
tain Boling. Dr. Pfifer was placed in charge of a tempora-
ry hospital, erected for the use of the battalion. Surgeon
Bronson had resigned, preferring the profits received from
his negro slaves, who were then mining on Sherlock's creek
to all the romance of Indian warfare. The doctor was a
clever and genial gentleman, but a poor mountaineer. Doc-
tor Lewis Leach was appointed to fill the vacancy. Doctor
Black was ordered to duty with Captain Boling. Major
Savage ofi*ered me a position, and it was urged upon me
by Captain Boling, but having a number of men engag-
ed in a mining enterprise, in which Spencer and myself
were interested, we had mutually agreed to decline all oftice.
Beside this, when Mr. Spencer and myself entered into ser-
vice together, it was with the expectation that we would
soon be again at libert3^ But once in the service, our per-
sonal pride and love of adventure would not allow us to be-
come subordinate by accepting ofiice.

142 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

As it was the design of Major Savage to make a tborongh
search in the territory surrounding the Yosemite, if we failed
in surprising the inhabitants in their valley, a few scouts and
guides were provided for the expedition to aid in our search
among the " High Sierras," so distinctively named by Prof.
Whitney. Among our ample supplies ropes were furnished,
by order of Major Savage, suitable for floats, and for establisli-
ing bridges where needed. These bridges w^ere suggested
by myself, and were useful as a support while passing
through swift water, or for crossing narrow but rushing tor-
rents. This was accomplished expeditiously by simply
stretching " taut^^ two ropes, one above the other, the up-
per rope, grasped by the hands, serving to secure the safe
passage of the stream. Where trees were not found in suit-
able position to make the suspension, poles were lashed to-
gether so as to form shears, which served for trestles. I al-
so suggested that snow-shoes could probably be used with
advantage on our mountain excursions. The use of these I
found entirely unknown, except to Major Savage and a few
other eastern men. My experience favored their use, as I
had often found it easier to travel over deep snow than to
wallow through it. My suggestion caused a '''heap^^ of mer-
riment, and my friend Chandler laughed until he became
^^ powerful wealc,^^ and finally I was assailed by so many
shafts of witty raillery from my southern comrades, that I
was willing to retreat, and cry out, ' hold, enough!' "

The services of Major Savage being indispensable to the
Commissioners, it was decided that the expedition would be
under the command of Captain Boling. In making this
announcement, the Major said: he expected Ten-ie-ya and
his people would come in with us if he was formally invit-
ed, and a sufficient escort provided. Captain Boling very
seriously assured the Major, that if the Yosemites accepted
the invitation, he should endeavor to make the trip a secv/re

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 143

one; there should be no neglect on the part of the escort if
suitable supplies were provided for subsistence. Major
Savage laughingly replied that as the expedition would be
under the especial command of Captain Boling, he had no
fears that ample supplies would not be provided.

Our preparations being made, we again started for the
Merced in search ot the Yosemites. It was the design of
Capt. Boling to surprise the Indians if possible, and if not,
to cut off the escape of their women and children, the cap-
ture <of whom, would soon bring the warriors to terms.
With this plan in view, and leaving Chandler virtually in
command of the column, we made a rapid march direct for
their valley, crossing the streams without much difficulty,
and without accident.

The advance, consisting of Captain Boling with a small
detachment, and some of the scouts, quietly entered the
valley, but no Indians were seen. A few new wigwams
had been built on the south side near the lower ford, to
better guard the entrance as was supposed. Without
halting, except to glance at the vacant huts, the advance
rode rapidly on, following a trail up the south side, which
our Pohonochee guide informed the captain was a good
traiL

On entering the valley and seeing the deserted wigwams
I reached the conclusion that our approach had been her-
alded. As my military ardor subsided, my enthusiastic love
of the beautiful returned to me, and I halted a moment to
take a general view of the scenery; intending also to direct
the column up the south side. While waiting for Chan-
dler, I examined the huts, and found several bushels of
scorched acorns that had been divested of their covering, as
if for transportation. I knew that the natives had no more
fondness for burnt acorns than Yankees have for burnt
beans, and the interpreter Sandino, who was with me at this

144 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

moment, muttered in Indian Spanish, " Yosemite very poor
— no got much eat; acorns, fire burn — pull 'em out." In
one of the huts we found a young dog, a miserable cur that
barked his affright at our approach, and fled into the brush
near by. I told Lt. Chandler of the directions left for his
guidance, and as he expressed his intention to bring up the
rear of the column into closer order, I received permission
to move slowly on with his advance, consisting of Fire-
baugh, Spencer, French, Fisher, Stone, a few others and
myself. We were soon overtaken by Chandler, who had
given his orders to the rear-guard. As we rode along, I re-
ported the conclusions of Sandino and my knowledge of the
fact that nearly all the acorns had been burnt. I also told
him what Sandino had previously said, that the Indians
took the shells off the acorns they carried over the moun-
tains, and from this cause, thought the hulled acorns found
were designed for a distant transportation. Again referring
the matter to Sandino, who was called up for the purpose,
he said, "!N'o fire when take off skin; no like 'em; Yosem-
ite close by, want 'em acorn." Upon telling Chandler that
Sandino's opinion was that the acorns found were saved
from some of the burning supplies fired at our first visit,
and that the Yosemites were transporting them to some
mountain retreat, the Lieutenant could not credit it, and said
that "- Sandino's opinions are unreliable."

Sandino was not popular, either with our officers or with
the "boys," Captain Boling doubted his integrity, while
Charidler said he was a most arrant coward and afraid of
the wild Indians. Chandler was right; but, nevertheless,
Sandino told us many truths. At times his timidity and
superstition were very annoying; but if reproved, he be-
came the more confused, and said that many questions made
his head ache; a very common answer to one in search of
knowledge among Indians. Sandino had been sent along

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 145

by the Major as our interpreter, but a Spanish interpreter
was necessary to make him of any use. As a scout he was
inferior — almost useless. We afterwards found that San-
dino's surmises w^ere true. It was evident that the fire had
been extinguished at some of the large heaps, and many
acorns saved, though in a damaged condition.

As we rode on up the valley, I became more observant
of the scenery than watchful for signs, when suddenly my
attention was attracted by shadowy objects flitting past
rocks and trees on the north side, some distance above El
Capitan. Halting, I caught a glimpse of Indians as they
passed an open space opposite to us. Seeing that they w ere
discovered, they made no further efforts to hide their move-
ments, but came out into open view, at long rifle range.
There were five of them. They sahited us w^ith taunting
gestures, and fearlessly kept pace with us as we resumed
our march. The river was here a foaming impassable tor-
rent. The warriors looked with great indiflerence on our
repeated efforts to discover a fording place. As we ap-
proached a stretch of comparatively smooth water, I made
known to Chandler my intention of swimming the stream
to capture them. His answer was: "Bully for you. Doc;
take 'em, if you can, alive, but take 'em anyhow.'^'' I start-
ed with Spencer, Firebaugh, French, young Stone and two.
others, for a sloping bank where our animals would most
willingly enter the stream; but Stone spurred passed me as
we reached the bank, and when Firebaugh's mulish mus-
tang refused the water, though given the spur, and all the
other mules refused to leave the horse. Stone backed his
mule over the bank, and we swam our mules after the "boy
leader" across the Merced.

The Indians, alarmed by this unexpected movement, fled
up the valley at the top of their speed. By the time we
had crossed, they had nearly reached a bend in the river
10

146

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

above ou the north side. We followed at our best gait, but
found the trail obstructed by a mass of what then appeared to
be recently fallen rocks. Without hesitation, we abandoned
our mules, and continued the pursuit on foot, up to the

HOUSEWORTH Si CO.

TIIK 1 IIRl E BliOl IIEKS.

l.3,GoO feet in height.)

rocky spur known as the " Three Brothers," where entering
the Talus, they disappeared. Find them, we could not.
The obstructing rocks on the old north side trail were
known as " We-ack," " The Rocks," and understood to
mean the " fallen rocks," because, according to traditions
they had fallen upon the old trail. The modern trail for
horses crossed the stream a short distance below, where
there was a very good ford in a lower stage of water, but
at this time, the early part of May, the volume of water
rushing down the Merced was astonishing. We had cross-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 147

ed readily enough in the heat of excitement; but it was with
feelings of rehictance that we re-entered the cold water
and swam onr mules hack to where a few of our com-
rades had lialted on the south side.

Mr. Firebaugh, having failed to get his mustang to
follow us, had run him up on the south side as if to cut off
the fugitives, and saw them hide behind a ledge of rocks.

When informed of the situation, Capt. Boling crossed to
the north side and came down to the ledge where the scouts
were hidden; but the Captain could scarcely at first credit
Firebaugh's statement, that he had seen them climb up the
cliff. Our Indian scouts were sent up to hunt out the hid-
den warriors, and through the means of fair promises, if
they came down voluntarily. Captain Boling succeeded in
bringing in the five Indians. Threo of the captives were
known to us, being sons of Ten-ie-ya, one of whom was
afterwards killed; the other two were young braves, the
wife of one being a daughter of the old chief. The
Indian name for the three rocky peaks near which this
capture was made was not then known to any of our bat-
talion, but from the strange coincidence of three brothers
being made prisoners so near them, we designated the
peaks as the "Three Brothers." I soon learned that they
were called by the Indians "Kom-po-pai-zes," from a fan-
cied resemblance of the peaks to the heads of frogs when
sitting up ready to leap. A fanciful interpretation has
been given the Indian name as meaning "mountains play-
ing leap-frog," but a literal translation is not desirable.

They hear the plaintive bull-frog to his mistress trilling sweet;
They see the green-robed sirens plunge down in waters deep.
But leap these mountains may not; they watch, with clouded brow,
Ketum of young Ten-ie-ya— heard not his death's pow-wow.

148 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

CHAPTER X.

A General Scout — An Indian Trap — Flying Artillery — A Narrow Es-
cape— A Tragic Scene — Fortunes of War — A Scout's Description —
Recovery from a Sudden Leap — Surrounded by Enemies.

While Captain Boling was engaged in capturing the In-
dians we had " treed " on the north side of the valley, scout-
ing parties were sent out by Lieut. Chandler. They spread
over the valley, and search was made in every locality that
was accessible. Discovering fresh signs on a trail I had
unsuccessfully followed on my first visit, I pursued the
traces up to a short distance below Mirror Lake. Being
alone I divided my attention between the wonders of the
scenery and the tracks I was following, when suddenly I
was aroused by discovering a basket of acorns lying by the
trail. Seeing that it was a common carrying basket, such
as was generally used by the squaws in " packing," I at
first came to the conclusion that it had been thrown off by
some affrighted squaw in her haste to escape on my ap-
])roach. Observing another on a trail leading toward the
Talus, I felt confident that I had discovered the key to the
hiding-place of the Indians we were in search of. Secur-
ing my mule with the "riata " I continued the search, and
found several baskets before reaching the walls of the cliff,
up which, in a kind of groove, the trail ascended. By this
time I began to be suspicious, and thought that there was
too much method in this distribution of acorns along the
trail for frightened squaws to have made, and it now occurred

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 149

to me what Sandino had said of acorns being hulled for
transportation up the cliffs; and these had not heen hulled!

Before reaching the Talus, I observed that tlie foot-prints
were large, and had been made by the males, as the toes
did not turn in, as was usual with the squaws; and it now
began to appear to me, that the acorns were only left to lead
us into some trap; for 1 was aware that " warriors " seldom
disgraced themselves bj " packing," like squaws. Taking
a look about me, I began to feel that I was venturing too
far; my ambitious desire for further investigation vanished,
and I hastened back down the trail. While descending, I
met Lt. Gilbert of C company, with a few men. They too
had discovered baskets, dropped by the ''^scared Indians^''
and were rusliing up in hot pursuit, nearly capturing me.
I related my discoveries, and told the Lieutenant of my sus-
picions, advising him not to be too hasty in following up
the " leadP After I had pointed out some of the peculiar-
ities of the location above us, he said with a sigh ot disap-
pointment, '' By George! Doc. I believe you are right — ^you
are more ©f an Indian than I am any way; I reckon we
had better report this to the Captain before we go any fur-
ther." I replied, " I am now going in to report this strategy
to Captain Boling, for I believe he can make some flank
movement and secure the Indians, without our being caught
in this trap." But while we were descending to the trail, I
seriously thought and believed, that Lt. Gilbert and his men
as well as myself, had had a narrow escape. The bit of his-
tory of the rear guard of Charlemagne being destroyed by
the Pyrenians flashed through my mind, and I could read-
ily see how destructive such an attack might become.

After taking the precaution to secrete the baskets on the
main trail, Lt. Gilbert, with his scouts, continued his ex-
plorations in other localities, saying as he left that he would
warn all whom he might see " not to get into the trap." I

150 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

mounted my mule and rode down the valley in search of
Captain Boling, and found him in an oak grove near our old
camp, opposite a cliff, now known as " Hammo" (the lost
arrow). I here learned the particulars of his successful cap-
ture of the five scouts of Ten-ie-ya's band, and at his request
asked them, through Sandino, who had come over with the
^'kitchen mules^^ why they had so exposed themselves to
our view. They rcj )lied that Ten-ie-ya knew of our approach
before we reached the valley. That by his orders they were
sent to watch onr movements and report to him. That they
did not think we could cross the Merced with our horses
until we reached the upper fords; and therefore, when dis-
covered, did not fear. They said that Ten-ie-ya would come
in and " have a talk with the white chief when he knows
we are here."

After repeated questioning as to where their people were,
and where the old chief would be found if a messenger
should be sent to him, they gave us to understand that they
were to meet Ten-ie-ya near To-co-ya, at the same time
pointing in the direction of the " North Dome." Captain
Boling assured them that if Ten-ie-ya would come in with
his people he could do so with safet}^ That he desired to
make peace with him, and did not wish to injure any of
them. The young brave was the principal spokesman, and
he replied : "Ten-ie-ya will come in when he hears what
has been said to us."

Having acquired all the information it was possible to
get from the Indians, Capt. Boling said that in the morn-
ing he would send a messenger to the old chief and see if he
would come in. When told this the young "brave" ap-
peared to be very anxious to be permitted to go after him,
saying: " He is there now," pointing towards the "North
Dome," " another day he will be on the ' Skye Mountains,'
or anywhere," meaning that his movements were uncertain.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 151

Capt. Boling had so much confidence in his statements,
that lie decided to send some of the scouts to the region of
the E'orth Dome for Ten-ie-ya; but all efforts of our allies
and of ourselves, failed to obtain any further clue to Ten-ie-
ya's hiding-place, for the captives said that they dare not
disclose their signals or countersign, for the penalty was
death, and none other would be answered or understood by
their people. I here broke in upon the captain's efforts to
obtain useful knowledge from his prisoners, by telling him
of the discovery of baskets of acorns found on the trail; and
gave him my reasons for believing it to be a design to lead
us into an ambush — that the Indians were probably on the
cliff above. I volunteered the suggestion that a movement
in that direction would surprise them while watching the
trap set for us.

Captain Boling replied: " It is too late in the day for a
job of that kind; we will wait and see if Ten-ie-ya will
come in. I have made up my mind to send two of our
prisoners after him, and keep the others as hostages until
he comes. To make a sure thing of this. Doctor, I want
you to take these two," pointing to one of the sons and the
son-in-law of Ten-ie-ya, "and go with them to the place
where they have said a trail leads up the cliff to Ten-ie-ya's
hiding place. You will take care that they are not molest-
ed by any of our boys while on this trip. Take any one
with you in camp, if you do not care to go alone."

Taking a small lunch to break my fast since the morning
meal, I concluded to make the trip on foot; my mule hav-
ing been turned loose with the herd. Arming myself, I
started alone with the two prisoners which Capt. Boling had
consigned to my guardianship. I kept them ahead of me on
the trail, as I always did when traveling with any of that
race. We passed along the westerly base of the ITorth
Dome at a rapid gait, without meeting any of my com-

152 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

rades, and had reached a short turn in the trail around a
point of rocks, when the Indians suddenly sprang back, and
Jumped behind me. From their frightened manner, and
cry of terror, I was not apprehensive of any treachery on
their part. Involuntarily I cried out, "Hallo! what's up
now?" and ste])ped forward to see what had so alarmed
them. Before me, stood George Fisher with his rifle lev-
eled at us. I instantly said: "Hold on George! these
Indians are under my care!" He determinedly exclaimed
without change of position, " Get out of the way. Doctor,
those Indians have got to die." Just behind Fisher was
Sergeant Cameron, w^ith a man on his shoulders. As he
hastil}^ laid him on the ground, I was near enough to see
that his clothing was soiled and badly torn, and that his
face, hands and feet were covered with blood. His eyes
were glazed and bloodshot, and it was but too evident that
he had been seriously injured. From the near proximity
of the basket trail, I instantly surmised they had been on
the cliff above. The scene was one I shall long remember.
It seemed but a single motion for Cameron to deposit his
burden and level his rifle. He ordered me to stand aside
if I valued my own safety. I replied as quietly as I could,
"Hold on, boys! Captain Boling sent me to guard these
Indians from harm, and I shall obey orders." I motioned
the Indians to keep to my back or they would be killed.
Cameron shouted: "They have almost killed Spencer, and
have got to die. As he attempted to get sight, he said:
" Give way, Bunnell, I don't want to hurt you." This I
thought veri/ condescending, and I replied with emphasis:
"These Indians are under my charge, and I shall protect
them. If you shoot you commit murder." The whole
transaction thus far seemingly occupied but a moment's
time, when to the surprise of us all, Spencer called my
name. I moved forward a little, and said to them, " Throw

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 153

up jour rifles and let me come into to see Spencer." " Come
in! you are safe," replied Fisher — still watching the Indians
with a fierce determination in his manner. Spencer raised
himself in a sitting position, and at a glance seemed to take
in the situation of affairs, for he said: "Bunnell is right;
boys, don't shoot; mine is but the fortune of war;" and telling
Cameron to call me, he again seemed to fall partly into stu-
por. As I again moved towards them with the Indians behind
me, they with some reluctance, put up their rifles. Fisher
turned his back to me as he said with sarcasm, " Come in
with your friends. Doctor, and thank Spencer for their
safety." They relieved their excitement with volleys of im-
precations. Cameron said that 1 " was a sight too

high-toned to suit friends that had always been willing to
stand by me."

This occurrence did not destroy good feeling toward each
other, for we were all good friends after the excitement had
passed over.

I examined Spencer and found that, although no bones
were broken, he was seriously bruised and prostrated by
the shock induced by his injuries. Fisher started for camp
to bring up a horse or mule to carry Spencer in. I learned
that they had fallen into the trap on the "basket trail," and
that Spencer had been injured while ascending the clifl:'as
I had suspected. He had, unfortunately, been trailed in^
as I had been. The particulars Cameron related to me and
in my hearing after we had arrived in camp. As the In-
dians represented to me that the trail they proposed to take
up the cliff" was but a little way up the north branch, I con-
cluded to go on with them, and then be back in time to ac-
company Spencer into camp. Speaking some cheering
words to Spencer I turned to leave, when Cameron said to
him: "Yon ain't dead yet, my boy." Spencer held out his
hand, and as he took it Cameron said, with visible emotion,

154 DISCO f^ERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

but emphatic declaration: "We will pay them back for
this if the chance ever comes; Doc. is decidedly too con-
scientious in this affair." I escorted the Indians some way
above " Mirror Lake," where they left the trail and com-
menced to climb the cliff.

On my return I found that Cameron had already started
with Spencer; I soon overtook them and relieved him of his
burden, and from there carried Spencer into camp. We
found Fisher vainly trying to catch his mule. The most
of the horses were still out with the scouts, and all animals
in camp had been turned loose. Sergt. Cameron, while
Fisher was assisting me in the removal of Spencer's cloth-
ing aad dressing his wounds, had prepared a very comfort-
able bed, made of boughs, that the kind-hearted boys
thoughtfully brought in; and after he was made comfort-
able and nourishment given him, the Sergeant related to
Captain Boling the details of their adventure, which were
briefly as follows: Cameron and Spencer while on their
way back to camp discovered the baskets on the trail.
Feeling certain that they had discovered the hiding-place
of the Indians, as we had done, they concluded to make a
reconnoisance of the vicinity before making a report of their
discovery. Elated at their success, and unsuspicious of any
unusual danger, they followed the trail that wound up the
cliff, along jutting rocks that in places projected like cor-
nices, until the converging walls forced them to a steep ac-
clivity grooved in the smooth-worn rock. Not daunted by
the difficult assent, they threw off their boots and started
up the slippery gutter, when suddenly a huge mass of
granite came thundering down towards them. But for a
fortunate swell or prominence just above they would both
have been swept into eternity; as it was, the huge rock
passed over their lieads; a fragment, however, struck Spen-
cer's rifle from his hand and hurled him fifty feet or more

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 155

down the steep wall, where he lay, entirely senseless for a
time, while a shower of rocks and stones was passing over
him, the shape of the wall above sending them clear of his
body.

Cameron was in advance, and fortunately was able to
reach the shelter of a projecting rock. After the discharge,
an Indian stretched himself above a detached rock, from
which he had been watcliing his supposed victims. Cam-
eron chanced to be looking that way, and instantly tiring,
dropped his man. 'No doubt he was killed, for the quantity
of blood found afterward on the rock, was great. The ech-
oing report of Cameron's rifle, brought back howls of rao-e
from a number of rocks above, as if they were alive with
demons. Anticipating another discharge from their bat-
tery, Cameron descended to the spot where Spencer had
fallen, and taking him in his arms, fled out of range.

After supper, the explorers having all come in, the boys
gathered around the Sergeant and importuned him to give
the history of his adventures. After reflectivt'ly bringing
up the scene to view, he began: "We got into mighty close
quarters! Come to think of it, I don't see how we happened
to let ourselves be caught in that dead-fall. I reckon we
must have fooled ourselves some. The way of it was this.
We -vent up on the south side as far as we could ride, and
after rummaging around for a while, without finding any-
thing, Spencer wanted to go up the North Canon and get a
good look at that mountain with one side split oft'; so I told
tlie boys to look about for themselves, as there were no
Indians in the valley. Some of them went on up the S >uth
Canon, and the rest of us went over to the INorth Canon.
iVfter crossing the upper ford, Spencer and I concluded to
walk up the canon, so we sent our animals down to graze
with the herd. Spencer looked a good long while at that
split mountain, and called it a 'half dome.' I concluded

156 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

he might name it what he liked, if he would leave it and
go to camp; for I was getting tired and hungry and said so.
Spencer said ' All right, we'll go to camp.'

On our way down, as we passed tliat looking-glass pond,
he wanted to take one more look, and told me to go ahead
and he'd soon overtake me; but that I wouldn't do, so he
said: "No matter, then; I can come up some other time."
As we came on down the trail below the pond, I saw some
acorns scattered by the side of the trail, and told Spencer
there were Indians not far off. After looking about for a
while Spencer found a basket nearly full behind some rocks,
and in a little while discovered a trail leading up towards
the cliff. We followed this up a piece, and soon found sev-
eral baskets of acorns. I forgot about being hungry, and
after talking the matter over we decided to make a sort of
reconnoisance before we came in to make any report. Well,
we started on up among the rocks until we got to a mighty
steep place, a kind of gulch that now looked as if it had
been scooped out for a stone battery. The trail up it was
as steep as the roof on a meeting-house, and worn so slip-
pery that we couldn't get a foot-hold. I wanted to see what
there was above, and took off my boots and started up.
Spencer did the same and followed me. 1 had just got to the
swell of the steepest slope, where a crack runs across the face
of the wall, and was looking back to see if Spencer would
make the riffle, when I heard a crash above me, and saw a
rock as big as a hogshead rolling down the cliff toward us.
I sprang on up behind a rock that happened to be in the
right place, for there was no time to hunt for any other
shelter.

I had barely reached cover when the bounding rock struck
with a crash by my side, and bounded clear over Spencer, who
had run across the crevice and was stooping down and steady-
ing himself with his rifle. A piece of the big rock that was

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 157

shattered into fragments and thrown in all directions, struck
his rifle out of his hands, and sent him whirling and clutch-
ing down a wall fifty feet. He lodged out of sight, where
in going up we had kicked oflP our leathers. I thought
he was killed, for he did not answer when I called, and I
had no chance then to go to him, for a tremendous shower
of stones came rushing by me. I expected he would be ter-
ribly mangled at first, but soon noticed that the swell in the
trail caused the rocks to bound clear over him onto tlie
rocks in the valley. I looked up to see where they came
from just as an Indian stuck his head above a rock. My
rifle came up of its own accord. It was a quick sight, but
with me they are generally the best, and as I fired that In-
dian jumped into the air with a yell and fell back onto the
ledge. He was hit, I know, and I reckon he went west.
Every rock above was soon a yelling as if alive. As I ex-
pected another discharge from their stone artillery, I slid
down the trail, picked up Spencer, and " vamoused the
ranche," just as they fired another shot of rocks down after
us. I did not stay to see wliere they struck after I was out
of range, for my rifle and Spencer took about all of my at-
tention nntil safely down over the rocks. While I was
tliere resting for a moment, Fisher came up the traiL He
heard me fire and had heard the rocks tumbling down the
clifl'. Thinking some one was in trouble, he was going to
find out who it was.

"We concluded at first that Spencer was done for; for
his heart beat very slow and he was quite dumpish. We
had just started for camp with him, and met Bunnell going
out with the two Indians. I reckon we would have sent
them on a trip down where it is warmer than up there on the
mountains, if Spencer hadn't roused himself just then.
He stopped the game. He called for the Doctor; but Bun-
nell was as stubborn as Firebaugh's mustang and would

158 DISCOVEBY OF THE YOSEMITE,

not leave the Indians. We had to let them pass, before he
would take a look at Spencer. Doc. is generally all right
enough, but he was in poor business to-day. When I told
him it was his own messmate, he said it didn't matter if it
were his own brother. If Captain Boling will make a
shooting match and put up the other three, I'll give mj-
horse for the first three shots. Shooting will be cheap after

tliat."

I have given the substance only of Sergt. Cameron's
talk to the group around him, though but poorly imitating
his style, in order to show the feeling that was aroused by
Spencer's misfortune. Spencer's uniformly quiet and gen-
tlemanly manners, made no enemies among rough com-
rades, who admired the courageous hardihood of " the little
fellow," and respected him as a man. Many expressions
of sympathy were given by the scouts who gathered around
our tent, on learning of his injury. For some days after
the event, he could scarcely be recognized, his face was so
swollen and discolored. But what Spencer seemed most to
regret, was the injury to his feet and knees, which had been
cruelly rasped by the coarse granite in his descent.

The injury from this cause was so great, that he was un-
able to make those explorations that footmen alone could
accomplish. He was an enthusiastic lover of nature, an ac-
complished scholar and man of the world. Having spent
five years in France and Germany in the study of modern
languages, after having acquired a high standing here in
Latin and Greek.

We thought him peculiarly gifted, and hoped for some-
thing from his pen descriptive of the Yoseinite that would
endure; but he could never be induced to make any effort
to describe any feature of the valley, saying: "That fools
only rush in where wise men stand in awe." We were bed-
fellows and friends, and from this cause chiefly, perhaps, all

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 169

the incidents of his accident were strongly impressed on my
memory. After his full recovery his feet remained tender
for a long time, and he made but one extended exploration
after his accident while in the battalion.

During the camp discussion regarding my course in saving
the two captives, Captain Boling and myself were amused
listeners. No great pains were taken as a rule to hide one's
light under a bushel, and we were sitting not far off. The
Captain said that he now comprehended the extreme anxiety
of the captives to see Ten-ie-ya, as doubtless they knew of
his intentions to roll rocks down on any who attempted to
follow up that trail; and probably supposed we would kill
them if any of us were killed. As he left our tent he re-
marked: *' These hostages will have to stay in camp. They
will not be safe outside of it, if some of the boys chance to
get their eyes on them."

160 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

' CHAPTEE XI.

Camp Amusements— A Lost Arrow— Escape of a Prisoner— Escape of
Another— Shooting of the Third— Indian Diplomacy— Taking His
Own Medicine — ^Ten-ie-ya Captured— Grief over the Death of His
Son — Appetite under Adverse Circumstances— Poetry Dispelled—
Really a Dirty Indian.

Although our camp was undisturbed during the night,
no doubt we were watched from the adjacent cliffs, as in
fact all our movements were. The captives silently occu-
pied the places bj the camp fire. They were aware of Spen-
cer's mishap, and probably expected their lives might
be forfeited; for they could see but little sympathy in the
countenances of those about them. The reckless demon-
strations of the more frolicksome boys were watched with
anxious uncertainty. The sombre expressions and energetic
remarks of the sympathizers of Spencer induced Captain
Boling to have a special guard detailed from those who
were not supposed to be prejudiced against the Indians, as
it was deemed all-important to the success of the campaign
that Ten-ie-ya should be conciliated or captured ; therefore,
this detail was designed as much for the protection of the
hostages as to prevent their escape. The messengers had
assured the Captain that Ten-ie-ya would be in before
noon, but the hostages told Sandino that possibly the mes
sengers might not find him near To-co-ya, where they ex
pected to meet him, as he might go a long distance away
into the mountains before they would again see him. They

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 161

evidently supposed that the chief, like themselves, had be-
come alarmed at the failure of his plan to draw us into am-
bush, and had fled farther into the Sierras; or else doubted
his coming at all, and wished to encourage the Captain
to hope for the coming of Ten-ie-ya that their own chances
of escape might be improved.

Sandino professed to believe their statement, telling me
that they — the five prisoners — expected to have trailed us
up to the scene of Spencer's disaster; failing in which — ow-
ing to our having forced them to hide near the ''Frog
Mountains" — they still expected to meet him on the cliff
where the rocks had been rolled down, and not at To-co-ya.
In this conversation, the fact appeared — derived as he said
indirectly from conversations with the prisoners — that there
were projecting ledges and slopes extending along the cliff
on the east side of Le-hamite to To-co-ya, where Indians
could pass and re-pass, undiscovered, and all of our move-
ments could be watched. The substance of this communi-
cation I gave to Captain Boling, but it was discredited as
an impossibility; and he expressed the belief that the old
chief would make his appearance by the hour agreed upon
with his messengers, designated by their pointing to where
the sun would be on his arrival in camp. Accordingly the
Captain gave orders that no scouts would be sent out until
after that time. Permission, however, was given to those
who desired to leave camp for their own pleasure or diver-
sion.

A few took advantage of this opportunity and made ex-
cursions up the North Canon to the " basket trail," with a
view of examining that locality, and at the same time in-
dulging their curiosity to see the place where Cameron
and Spencer had been trailed in and entrapped by the In-
dians. Most of the command preferred to remain in camp
to repair damages, rest, and to amuse themselves in a gen-
ii

162 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

eral way. Among the recreations indulged in, was shoot-
ing at a target with the bows and arrows taken from the
captured Indians. The bow and arrows of the young brave
were superior to those of the others, both in material and
workmanship. Oat of curiosity some of the boys induced
him to give a specimen of his skilL His sliots were really
commendable. The readiness with which he handled his
weapons excited the admiration of the lookers on. He,
with apparent ease, flexed a bow which many of our men
could not bend without great effort, and whose shots were
as liable to endanger the camp as to hit the target. This
trial of skill was witnessed by Captain Boling and per-
mitted, as no trouble was anticipated from it.

After this exercise had ceased to be amusing, and the
most of those in camp had their attention engaged in other
matters, the guard, out of curiosity and for pastime, put up
the target at long range. To continue the sport it was
necessary to bring in the arrows used, and as it was difficult
to find them, an Indian was taken along to aid in the search.
The young brave made a more extended shot than all others.
With great earnestness he watched the arrow, and started
with one of the guard, who was unarmed, to find it. While
pretending to hunt for the " lost arrow," he made a dash
from the guard toward " Indian Canon," and darted into
the rocky Talus, which here encroached upon the valley.
The guard on duty hearing the alarm of his comrade and
seeing the Indian at full speed, fired at him, but without
effect, as the intervening rocks and the zig-zag course he
was running, made the shot a difficult one, without danger
of hitting his comrade, who was following in close pursuit.

This aggravating incident greatly annoyed Capt. Boling,
who was peculiarly sensitive on the subject of escaped pris-
oners. The verdant guard was reprimanded in terms more
expressive than polite; and relieved from duty. The re-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 163

iiuiiiiing Indians were then transferred to the special care of
Lt. Chandler, who was told by Capt. Boling to " keep them
secure if it took the whole command to do it." The Indians
were secured by being tied back to back, with a *' riata" or
picket rope, and then fastened to an oak tree in the middle
of the camp, and the guard — a new one — stationed where
tliey could constantly watch. The morning passed, and tlie
hour often arrived, without Ten-ie-ya. Capt. Boling tlien
sent out Sandino and the scouts to hunt for him, and if
found, to notify him that he was expected. Sandino soon
came back, and reported that he liad seen Ten-ie-ya and
talked with him; but that he was unable to reach him from
below, on account of the steepness of the ledge. Sandino
reported that Ten-ie-ya was unwilling to come in. That he
expressed a determination not to go to the Fresno. He
would make peace with the white chief if he would be allow-
ed to remain in his own territory. Neither he nor his
people would go to the valley while the white men were
there. They would stay on the mountains or go to the
Monos.

When this was communicated to Capt. Boling, he gave
orders for a select number of scouts to make an effort to
bring in the old malcontent, alive if possible. Lt. Chand-
ler, therefore, with a few Noot-chii and Po-ho-no-chee scouts,
to climb above the projecting: ledge, and a few of our men
to cut off retreat, started up the Ten-ie-ya branch, led by
Sandino as guide. After passing the " Royal Arches,'' San-
dino let Chandler understand that he and his scouts had
best go up by the Wai-ack or Mirror Lake trail, in order to
cut off Ten-ie-y a's retreat ; while he w^ent back to the rock
he pointed out as the place where he had seen and talked
with Ten-ie-ya; and which commanded a view of our camp.
This was distasteful to Chandler; but after a moment's re-
flection said : " Let the converted knave go back to camp ;

164: DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

I'll act without him, and catch the old chief if he is on the
mountain, and that without resorting to Indian treachery,"

While in camp Sandino had seemed to convey some mes-
sage to the hostages, and when asked the purport of it had
answered evasively. This had prejudiced Chandler, but it
had not surprised me, nor did it appear inconsistent wuth
Sandino's loyalty to Captain Boling; but the Indian was
unpopular. As to his code of honor and his morality, it
was about what should have been expected of one in his
position, and as a frequent interpreter of his interpretations
and sayings, I finally told the Captain and Chandler that it
would be best to take Sandino for what he might be worth;
as continued doubt of him could not be disguised, and
would tend to make a knave or fool of him. On one occa-
sion, he was so alarmed by some cross looks and words giv-
en him, that he fell upon his knees and begged for his life,
thinking, as he said afterward, that he was to be killed.

During the night, and most of the time during the day,
I was engaged in attendance on Spencer. Doctor Black
understood it to be Spencer's wish that I should treat him.
I gave but little attention to other matters, although I could
see from our tent everything that was going on in camp.
Not long after the departure of Chandler and his scouts,
as I was about leaving camp in search of balsam of fir and
other medicinals, I observed one of the guard watching
the prisoners with a pleased and self-satisfied expression.
As I glanced toward the Indians I saw that they were
endeavoring to untie each other, and said to two of the
detail as I passed them, "That ought to be reported to
the ofiicer of the guard. Tliey should be separated, and
not allowed to tempt their fate." I was told that it was
" already known to the ofiicers." 1 was then asked if I was
on guard duty. The significance of this I was fully able to
interpret, and passed on to the vicinity of " The High
Falls."

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 165

On my return an hour afterwards, I noticed when near-
ing camp, that the Indians were gone from the tree to
which they were tied when 1 left. Supposing that they had
probably been removed for greater security, I gave it no
further thought until, without any intimation of what had
occurred during my sliort absence, I saw before me the
dead body of old Ten-e-ya's youngest son. The warm blood
still oozing from a wound in his back. He was lying just
outside of our camp, within pistol range of the tree to
which he had been tied.

I now compreliended the action of the guard. I learned
that the other Indiaii had been fired at, but had succeeded
in making his escape over the same ground and into the
canon where the other brave had disappeared. I found on
expressing ni}^ unqualified condemnation of this cowardly act,
that I was not the only one to denounce it. It was a cause
of regret to nearly the whole command. Instead of the
praise expected by the guard for the dastardly manner in
which the young Indian was killed, they were told by Cap-
tain Boling that they had committed murder. Sergeant
Cameron was no lover of Indians, but for this act his boil-
ing wrath could hardly find vent, even when aided by some
red hot expressions. I learned, to my extreme mortifica-
tion, that no report had been made to any of the officers.
The Indians had been permitted to untie themselves, and
an opportunity had been given them to attempt to escape
in order to fire upon them, expecting to kill them both;
and only that a bullet-pouch had been hung upon the
muzzle of one of the o^uard's rifles while leanino^ as^ainst a
tree (for neither were on duty at the moment), no doubt
both of the captives would have been killed.

Upon investigation, it was found that the fatal shot had
been fired by a young man who had been led by an old
Texan sinner to think that killing Indians or Mexicans

IGO

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

was a duty; aod surprised
at Captain Bolino^'s view of
liis conduct, declared with
. an injured air, that he
"would not kill another In
dian if the woods were full
of them." Although no
punishment was ever inflict-
ed upon the perpetrators of
the act, they were both soon
sent to Coventry, and feeling
their disgrace, were allowed
to do duty with the pack-
train. Captain Boling had,
before the occurrence of this ^^
incident, decided to establish
his permanent camp on the
south side of the Merced. V;
The location selected was ^
near the bank of the river,
in full view of, and nearl
opposite, "The
Fall." This camp
was head - quar-
ters during our
stay in the valley,
which was ex-
tended to a much
longer time than
we had anticipat-
ed. Owing to
several mountain
storms, our stay
was prolonged
over a month.

Y O S l>; M I 1 K FALL
(2,634 feet in height.)

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 167

The bottoms, or meadow land, afforded good grazing for
our animals, and we were there more conveniently reached
by our couriers and supply-trains from the Fresno.

From this point our excursions were made. All Indians
attach great importance to securing the bodies of their dead
for appropriate ceremonials, which with these was " crema-
tion." They with others of the mountain tribes in this part
of California, practiced the burning of their dead in ac-
cordance with their belief in a future state of existence,
which was that if the body was burned, the spirit was re-
leased and went to " tlie happy land in the west." If this
ceremony was omitted, the spirit haunted the vicinity, to
the annoyance of the friends as well as the enemies of the
deceased. Knowing this. Captain Boling felt a desire to
make some atonement for the unfortunate killing of the son
of Ten-ie-ya, the chief of the tribe with whom he was en-
deavoring to '*make peace," and therefore made his ar-
rangements to take advantage of this custom to propitiate
the Indians by giving them an opportunity to remove the
body of the youth. Accordingly, the order was at once
given to break camp.

While the pack animals were being loaded, Lt. Chandler
with his party brought in Ten-ie-ya. The Indian scouts,
who were iirst sent out with Sandino and who knew wliere
the talk with the chief had been held, passed on in advance
and saw that he was still at his perch, watching tlie move-
ments below him. Some of those out on leave discovered
him also, seated on a ledge that appeared only accessible
from above. The Pohonochee scouts, thinking to capture
him by cutting off his retreat, followed an upper trail and
reached the summit of the wall, while a few of Chandler's
men, who were apprized of the situation by some of the
pleasure-seekers whom they met, took a lower trail, and
thus were in advance of the Indian scouts when Ten-ie-ya's

168 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

retreat was reached. To their disappointment, the old chief
could not be found, though at intervals fresh signs and heaps
of stones were seen along the south-western slope of the
mountain.

The sequel to the disappearance of Ten-ie-ya, as explained
by Sandino, was simply as follows: When sent back by
Chandler, Sandino resolved to make another effort to in-
duce Ten-ie-ya to come in, lest Chandler should kill him if
found. Accordingly he again climbed to the foot of the
old chief's perch, and was talking with him, when some
small loose stones came rolling down towards them. Seeing
that his retreat above had been cut off, Ten-ie-ya at first
ran along westerly, on the slope of the mountain towards
Indian Canon ; but finding that he was cut off in that di-
rection also, by the ]^eut-chii and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, he
turned and came down a trail through an oak tree- top to
the valley, which Sandino liad by this time reached, and
where he had been attracted by the noise made in the pur-
suit. Lt. Chandler had not climbed up the trail, and hear-
ing Sandino's cry for help, and the noise above him, he was
able to reach the place when Ten-ie-ya descended, in time
to secure him. Ten-ie-ya said the men above him were
rolling stones down, and he did not like to go up, as they
broke and flew everywhere; for that reason he came down.

Ten-ie-ya accompanied his captors without making any
resistance, although he strongly censured the Indians for
being instrumental in his capture. They did not reach the
valley in time to take part in the capture, but as Ten-ie-ya
had said: "It was their cunning that had discovered the
way to his liiding place."

IS'one of the party of explorers or those under Chandler
were aware of the event that had occurred during their ab-
sence. As Ten-ie-ya walked toward the camp, proudly con-
scious of being an object of attention from us, his eye fell

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 169

upon the dead body of his favorite son, which still lay where
he had fallen, without having been disturbed. He halted
for a moment, without visible emotion, except a slight quiv-
ering of his lips. As he raised his head, the index to his
feelings was exhibited in the glaring expression of deadly
hate with which he gazed at Capt. Boling, and cast his eyes
over the camp as if in search of the remains of the other son,
the fellow captive of the one before him. Captain Boling
expressed his regret of the occurrence, and had the circum-
stances explained to him, but not a single word would he ut-
ter in reply ; not a sound escaped his compressed lips. He pas-
sively accompanied us to our camp on the south side of the
river. It was evident that every movement of ours was
closely scrutinized. Sandino was instructed to notify the
chief that the body could be taken away. This permission
was also received in silence.

Upon riding over to the camp ground the next morning,
it was found that the body had been carried up or secreted
in Indian Canon ; as all of the tracks led that way. This
ravine became known to us as " Indian Canon," though
called by the Indians "Le-Hamite," " the arrow wood." It
was also known to them by the name of " Scho-tal-lo-wi,"
meaning the way to " Fall CreekP The rocks near which
we were encamped, between "Indian Canon" and "The
Falls," were now called by the Po-ho-no-chee scouts who
were with us, " Hammo," or "Ummo," " The Lost Arrow,"
in commemoration of the event. On the morning folio vv-
ing the capture of Ten-ie-ya, Capt. Boling tried to have a
talk with liim; but he would not reply to a question asked
through the intepreter; neither would he converse with
Sandino or the Indians with us. He maintained this
moody silence and extreme taciturnity for several days af-
terwards.

Finding that nothing could be accomplished through the

170 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

old chief, Captain Boling gave orders to re-commence our
search for his people. Scouting parties were started on
foot to explore as far as was practicable on account of the
snow. Although it was now May, the snow preven-
ted a very extended search in tlie higher Sierras. On
the first day out these parties found that, although they
had made a faithful and active search, they had not per-
formed half they had planned to do when starting. Dis-
tances were invariably under-estimated. This we after-
ward found was the case in all of our excursions in the
mountains, where we estimated distance by the eye; and
calling attention to the phenomena, I tried to have the
principle applied to heights as well. The height of the
mountainous cliffs, and the clear atmosphere made objects
appear near, but the time taken to reach them convinced
us that our eyes had deceived us in our judgment of dis-
tance. To avoid the severe labor that was imposed upon
us by carrying our provisions and blankets, an attempt was
made to use pack-mules, but the circuitous route we were
compelled to take consumed too much time; besides the
ground we were desirous of going over was either too soft
and yielding, or too rocky and precipitous. We were com-
pelled to leave the mules and continue our explorations on
foot. Later in the season there would have been no difii-
culty iu exploring the mountains on horse-back, if certain
well established routes and passes were kept in view; but
aside from these our Indian guides could give us little or
no information. This we accounted for upon the theory
that, as there was no game of consequence in the higher
Sierras, and the cold was great as compared with the lower
altitudes, the Indians knowledge of the " Higher Sierras "
was only acquired while passing over them, or while con-
cealed in them from the pursuit of their enemies. All
scouting parties were, therefore, principally dependent upon

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 171

their own resources, and took with them a supply of food
and their blankets for a bivouac. In this way much time
and fatigue of travel was saved. Some were more adven-
turous than others in their explorations. These, on re-
turning from a scout of one or more days out, would come
in ragged and foot-sore, and report with enthusiasm their
adventures, and the wonders they had seen. Their de-
scriptions around the camp fire at night were at first quite
exciting; but a few nights' experience in the vicinity of the
snow-line, without finding Indians, soon cooled down the
ardor of all but a very few, who, from their persistent wan-
dering explorations, were considered somewhat eccentric.

Through our Indian scouts, we learned that some of the
Yosemites had gone to the Tuolumne. These were Tuo-
lumne Indians who had intermarried with the Yosemites,
and had been considered as a part of Ten-ie-ya's band.
Taking their women and children, they returned to the
Tuolumne tribe as soon as it waf known that Ten-ie-ya had
been captured; fearing he would again promise to take his
band to the Fresno. Our orders prohibited us from dis-
turbing the Tuolumne Indians; we therefore permitted
them to return to their allegiance without attempting to
follow them.

Ten-ie-ya was treated with kindness, and as his sorrow
for the loss of his son seemed to abate, he promised to call
in some of his people, and abide by their decision, when
they had heard the statements of Capt. Boling. At night
he would call as if to some one afar off*. He said his peo-
ple were not far from our camp and could hear his voice.
We never heard a reply, although the calls were continued
by order of Capt. Boling for many nights.

Although he was closely watched by the camp guard, he
made an attempt to escape while the guard's back was mo-
mentarily turned upon him. Sergt. Cameron, who had es-

172 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

pecial charge of him at the time, saw his movement, and
as he rushed from his keeper, Cameron dashed after and
caught him before he was able to plunge into and swim the
river.

As Ten-ie-ya was brought into the presence of Capt. Bol-
ing hy Sergt. Cameron, after this attempt to escape, he sup-
posed that he would now be condemned to be shot. With
mingled fear of the uncertainty of his life being spared, and
his furious passion at being foiled in his attempt to regain
his liberty, he forgot his usiial reserve and shrewdness. His
grief for the loss of his son and the hatred he entertained
toward Copt. Boling, who he considered as responsible for
his death, was uppermost in his thoughts, and without any
of his taciturn, diplomatic style he burst forth in lamenta-
tions and denunciations, given in a loud voice and in a style
of language and manner of delivery which took us all by
surprise. In his excitement, he made a correct use of many
Spanish words, showing that he was more familiar with
them than he had ever admitted even to Sandino; but the
more emphatic expressions were such as may often be heard
used by the muleteers of Mexico and South America, but are
not found in the Lexicons. As he approached Capt. Boling,
he began in a highly excited tone: '•''Kill me^ sir Captain!
Yes, Icill rne^ as you killed my son; as you would kill my
people if they were to come to you! You would kill all my
race if you had the power. Yes, sir, American, you can
now tell your warriors to kill the old chief; you have made
me sorrowful, my life dark; you killed the child of my
heart, why not kill the father? But wait a little; when I
am dead I will call to my people to come to you, I will call
louder than you have had me call; that they shall hear me
in their sleep, and come to avenge the death of their chief
and his son. Yes, sir, American, m}^ spirit will make
trouble for you and your people, as you have caused trouble

AND INDIAN WAR OF i851. 173

to me and my people. "With the wizards, I will follow the
white men and make them fear me." He here aroused him-
self to a sublime frenzy, and completed his rhapsody by say-
ing: '^ You may kill me, sir. Captain, but you shall not live
in peace. 1 will follow in your foot-steps, I will not leave
my home, but be with the spirits among the rocks, the
water- falls, in the rivers and in the winds; wheresoever you
go I will be with you. You will not see me, but you will
fear the spirit of the old chief, and grow cold.* The great
spirits have spoken! I am done."

Captain Boling allowed the old orator to finish his talk
without interruption. Although he did not fully understand
him, he was amused at his earnest style and impetuous ges-
tures. On hearing il interpreted, he humorously replied:
" I comprehended the most of what he said. The old chief
has improved. If he was only reliable he w^ould make a
better interpreter than Sandino. As for speech-making,
Doc, I throw up. The old Pow-wow can beat me all hol-
low." Ten-ie-ya earnestly watched the countenance of the
good natured Captain, as if to learn his decision in the mat-
ter. The Captain observing him, quietly said: "Sergeant
Cameron ! the old sachem looks hungry, and as it is now
about supper time, you had better give him an extra ration
or two, and then see that he is so secured that he will not
have a chance to escape from us again."

I watched the old incorrigible while he was delivering
this eloquent harangue (which, of course, is necessarily a free
translation) with considerable curiosity. Under the ex-
citement of the moment he appeared many years younger.
With his vigorous old age he displayed a latent power which
was before unknown to us. I began to feel a sort of vene-

*It is claimed by all Indian "Medicine Men" that the presence of a
spirit is announced by a cool breeze, and that sometimes they turn cold
and shake as with an ague.

174 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

ration for him. My sympathies had before been aroused
for his sorrow, and I now began to have almost a genuine
respect for him; but as I passed him half an hour after-
wards, the poetry of his life appeared changed. He was
regaling himself on fat pork and beans from a wooden dish
which had been brought to him by order of Cameron. This
he seemed to enjoy with an appetite of a hungry animal.
His guard had provided his wooden bowl and ladle by chip-
ping them out of an alder tree, but failing to finish them
smoothly, they could not hQ properly washed; but this fact
seemed not to disturb his relish for the food. As I looked
at his enjoyment of the loaded dish, I now saw only a dirty
old Indian. The spiritual man had disappeared. I ad-
dressed him in Spanish, but not a word of reply; instead
he pointed to his ear, thereby indicating that he was deaf
to the language. Afterwards he even repudiated his ''Med-
icinesJivpP

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 175

OHAPTEK XIL

Bears and Otlier Game — Sickness of Captain Bolin^? — Convalescence and
Determination — A Guess at Heifrhts— A Tired Doctor and a Used-up
Captain — Surprising an Indian — Know- nothingness, or Native Amer-
icanism— A Clue and Discovery — A Short-cut to Camp, but an Un-
popular Route.

Considerable hilarty has been exhibited by modern vis-
itors when told that the Yosemite and its environs were
once the favorite resort of the grizzly bear. After these vis-
itors have returned to Xew York or Boston, they tell the
public not to be afraid of bears, as they were quite harm-
less; rather inclined to become domestic, etc. That is well
enough now, perhaps, although grizzlies may 3'et be found;
but at the date of the discovery ; their trails were as large
and numerous, almost, as cow-paths in a western settle-
ment. Several bears were seen by us, and one was killed.
The Yo-sem-i-tes used to capture these monsters by lying
in wait for them on some rock or in some tree that com-
manded their thoroughfare, and after the bear had been
wounded, all the dogs in the village were turned loose upon
him. After being brought to bay, he was dispatched with
arrows or the spear. A medium sized terrier or two will
so annoy a large grizzly, keeping out of his way in the
meantime, that he is apt to become stubborn and stand his
ground.

In such cases, there is less danger to the hunter. I have
known of two being killed in this way at short range. The
approach of the hunter was disregarded by the bear. Their

176 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

hams had been so bitten by the dogs that they dared not
run, for fear of a fresh attack. I killed a large one as he
came out of the Merced river, a little above where the town
of Merced has since been built, and the same day, being in
a whale-boat, 1 had to back from an old she-bear and her
two cubs, encountered in a short turn of the river. I tried
to kill these also, but my rifle had got soaked in the rain
that was pouring at the time; as for the pistol shots, fired
by some of the oarsmen, they only seemed to increase her
speed, and that of her cubs, as they reached the shore and
plunged through the willows. I had, previous to the kill-
ing of the grizzly, killed a large black bear with a rifle
of small calibre, and gaining confidence, I attacked the
grizzly, and was fortunate in cutting a renal-artery, from
which the bear soon bled to death; but upon viewing the
huge monster, I fully realized the folly of an open attack
upon this kind of game, and ever afterwards, so far as I
could, when alone, avoided their noted haunts. With all
my caution and dread of an unexpected encounter with
them, I met several face to face during mountain explora-
tions; but invariably, they seemed as anxious to get away
from me as I was that they should do so. Once while ma-
noeuvering to get a shot at a deer, a grizzly came out in full
view but a few yards in advance of me. I was tempted to
give him a sliot, but as I had no refuge of dog or tree, if I
made a poor shot, and knowing that I was not seen by the
bear, I did not molest him, but felt relieved as he entered
a chinquepin thicket, and if there had been fifty of them,
no doubt they might have all gone without my saying a
word,

I have seen a good deal of nonsense in print about bears,
but will venture to give these incidents. Joel H. Brooks
and John Kenzie, ex-members of "The Battalion," were
the least susceptible to fear of them, of any persons I ever

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 177

knew. Their skill as marksmen, was something wonder-
derfnl. They nsed to go througli a drill on foot, firing at
some imaginary grizzly, tlien with a representative shot,
the bear was wounded, and pnrsuing them; they would
turn and flee, loading their rifles as they ran, and then turn
and fire witli deliberation at the imaginary bear in pursuit.

This theory of bear hunting, they determined to put in-
to practice, and after the close of the Indian war, and the
disbanding of tlie hattalion, they establislied themselves in
a camp near the Tehon Pass, a locality even more famous
for bears than the Yosemite. They were successful, killed
a number, and were daily acquiring more confidence in the
practicability of their theory and plans of attack; when one
day, while Kenzie was out hunting by himself, he unexpect-
edly met a huge grizzly face to face; both were for a mo-
ment startled.

Contrary to the usual, and almost invariable, habit of the
bear when surprised or about to attack, he did not rise
upon his hind feet; but instead of aflfording Kenzie the ad-
vantage of the usual opportunity to aim at the small, light-
colored spot on his neck, which, if centered, is instant death
to the animal, the bear made a direct dash for the hunter.
Seeing his peril, Kenzie at once fired with all the delibera-
tion the urgency of the occasion would permit. The shot
proved a fatal one, but before Kenzie could avoid the fu-
rious charge of the animal, he was fatally injured by blows
from the terrible monster. His bowels were literally torn
out; he was unfortunate in being tripped by the tangled
brush, or he might have escaped, as the bear fell dead with
his first charge, Kenzie succeeded in dragging himself to
their camp. He described the locality of the adventure,
and requested Brooks to go and bring in the liver of the
bear. He said it would afl'ord him some consolation to eat
more of the bear than the bear had been able to eat of him.
12

178 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Brooks brought in and cooked some of the liver, fully grati-
fying Kenzie's whim; but it was the hunter's last poor tri-
umph— he died soon after. Brooks swore off from this
method of hunting, at least for a season, and accepted a
position offered him at the Indian Agency.

Another member of our battalion killed a grizzly that for
a time made him quite famous as a bear-fighter. As this
man was an Indian, an attempt has been made to weave the
incident into a legend, giving the honor of tlie combat to
one of the Yosemites. The truth is, that a full-blooded
Cherokee, known as " Cherokee Bob," or Robert Brown,
wounded a grizzly, and to keep the bear from entering a
thicket, set his dog on the game. While "Bob" was re-
loading his rifle, and before he could get the cap on, the
bear, disregarding the dog, charged upon Bob, and bore him
to tlie ground. The dog instantly attacked the bear, biting
his hams most furiously. The grizzly turned from Brown
and caught the dog with his paw, holding him as a cat
would hold a mouse. By this means Bob was released, and
but slightly bruised. In an instant he drew his hunting
knife and plunged it to the heart of the bear, and ended the
contest. The dog was seriously injured, but Bob carried
him in his arms to camp, and attended his wounds as he
would a comrade's or as he might have done his own. As
"Cherokee Bob's" bear fight was a reality known to his
comiades, I have noticed it here.

The various routes to the Yosemiteare now so constantly
traveled that bears will rarely be seen. They possess a
very keen scent, and will avoid all thoroughfares traveled
by man, unless very hungry; they are compelled to search
for food. Strange as it may appear to some, the ferocious
grizzly can be more reliably tamed and domesticated than
the black bear. A tame grizzly at Monterey, in 1849, was
allowed the freedom of the city. Capt. Chas. M. Webber,

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 179

the origiDal proprietor of the site of Stockton, had two that
were kept chained. They became very tame. One of these,
especially tame, wonld get loose from time to time and
roam at will over the city. The new inhabitants of Stock-
ton seemed not to be inspired by that faith in his docility
and uprightness of character that possessed the owner, for
they found him rav^enonsly devouring a barrel of sugar that
belonged to one of the merchants, and refused to give up
any portion of it. This offended the grocer, and he sent
word to Mr. Webber to come and remove his truant thief
The Captain came, paid for the damaged sugar, and giving
him, like a spoiled child, some of the sweets he had confis-
cated to induce him to follow, led the bear home. But
bruin remembered his successful forav, and breakino^ his
chain as^ain and again, and always returning to the mer-
chant's premises for sugar, Mr. Webber rid himself and the
community of the annoyance by disposing of his grizzlies.
During a hunt in company with Col. Byron Cole, Messrs.
Kent, Long and McBrien of San Francisco, I caught a good
sized cub, and Mr. Long, with a terrier dog, caught an-
other; the mother of which was killed by the unerring aim
of McBrien. These cubs were taken by Cole and McBrien
to San Francisco on their return, and sent to New York.
I was told that they became very tame. I hope they did,
for the comfort and security of their keepers; for in my
£rst efforts to tame a grizzly, I became somewhat prejudiced
against bear training as an occupation. Not long after my
experience, I heard of poor Lola Montez being bitten by
one she was training at Grass Yalley for exhibition in
Europe; and I now lost all faith in their reported docility
and domestic inclinations. The California lion, like the
wolf, is a coward, and deserves but little notice. Among
the visitors to the Yosemite, some will probably be inter-
ested in knowing where to find the game; fish, birds and

180 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

animals, that may yet remain to gratify the sportsmen's love
of the rod and the chase. Most of the game has been killed
or driven off by the approach of civilization. Deer and oc-
casionally a grizzly, cinnamon or black bear may be found
on the slopes of the Tuolumne, Merced, Fresno and San
Joaquin, and on all the rivers and mountains south of these
streams. The cinnamon bear of California is much laro^er
than the common brown bear of the Kocky Mountains.

The blue black-tailed deer of California are distinct from
the black tuft- tailed deer of the eastern ranges; a very
marked difference will be observed in their horns and ears.
This distinction has been noticed by naturalists; but the
species are often confounded in newspaper correspondence.
The habits of the California deer are more goat-like; they
are wilder, and more easily startled than the '^mule-eared"
deer of the Rockies, and when alarmed, they move with the
celerity of the white-tailed Virginia deer. The bare, tuft-
tailed and big-eared Rocky Mountain deer, seem but little
alarmed by the report of a gun; and their curiosity is nearly
equal to that of the antelope.

The California deer are still abundant upon the spurs of
the Sierras during their migrations to and from the foot-
hills. These migrations occur during the Autumn and
Spring. As the rainy season sets in, they leave the higher
mountains for the foot-hills and plains, keeping near the
snow line, and as the Spring advances, they follow back the
receding snow to the high Sierras and the Eastern Slope, but
seldom or never descend to the plain below. On account
of these migratory habits, they will most likely endure the
assaults of the sportsmen. The haunts of the grizzly are the
same as those of the deer, for they alike prefer the bushy
coverts to the more open ground, except when feeding.
The deer prefer as food the foliage of shrubs and weeds to
the richest grasses, and the bear prefers clover, roots, ants

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 181

and reptiles; but both fatten principally on acorns, wild rye
and wild oats.

California grouse are found in the vicinity of the Yosem-
ite. During the months of July and August they were
formerly found quite numerous concealed in the grass and
sedges of the valley and the little Yosemite; but as they
are much wilder than the prairie chicken, they shun the
haunts of man, and are now only found numerous in mid-
summer upon or bordering on the mountain meadows and
in the timber, among the pine forests, where they feed upon
the pine seeds and mistletoe, which also afford them ample
concealment. Their ventriloquial powers are such that
while gobbling their discordant notes, they are likely to de-
ceive the most experienced ear. It is almost impossible to
feel quite sure as to which particular tree the grouse is in
without seeing it. He seems to throw his voice about, now
to this tree and now to that, concealing himself the while
until the inexperienced hunter is deluded into the belief
that the trees are full of grouse, when probably there is but
one making all the noise. His attention having been di-
verted, the hunter is left in doubt from sheer conflicting
sounds as to which particular tree he saw a bird alight in.
It is generally pretty sure to '^ fetch the hird,^^ if you shoot
into the bunch of mistletoe into whicli you sujpjposed you
saw the grouse alight.

Beside the mountain grouse and mountain quail, among
the most beautiful of birds, that afford the sportsman a di-
versity of sport, an occasional flock of pigeons, of much
larger size than those of the Atlantic States, will attract
attention; though I have never seen them in very large
flocks. In most of the mountain streams, and their branch-
es, brook trout are quite abundant. They are not, however,
so ravenously accommodating, as to bite just when they are
wanted. I learned Irom the Indians that they would bite

182 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

best in foaming water, when they were unable to see the
angler, or the bait distinctly; their curiosity stimulating
their appetites. It is important that the trout do not see
the angler, and when very wary, the rod even should not be
conspicuous. Below the caiion of the Yosemite, young
salmon were once abundant. The Indians used to catch
fish in weirs made of brush and stones; but during the ex-
tensive mining operations on the Merced and other rivers,
the salmon seemed to have ahnost abandoned their favorite
haunts, for the mud covered spawn would not hatch. Large
salmon were speared by the Indians in all the rivers, with
a curious bone spear of but one tine, while the smaller fry
were caught in their weirs. In the Tulare lakes and in the
San Joaquin, King's, Kern and other rivers, fish, frogs and
turtle are abundant, and water fowl literally swarm during
the winter months in many parts ot California.

Among the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada, as well as in
all the lesser mountain ranges, may be found the common
California blue quail, and a very curious brush or chapparel
cock, known to the Spanish residents of California and
Mexico as "El Paisano" (The Countryman), and as the
" Correo Camino" (Koad-runner), and to ornithologists as
the Geo-coG cyx Cal-ifornicus.^ They have received the
name of " country mari^^ because of their inclination to run
like country children at the sight of strangers, and that of
" road-rum- -t" from the habit of frequenting roads and trails,
for the purpose of wallowing in the dust, and when alarmed
darting off along the road with the speed of an ostrich or
wild turkey. The object they have in wallowing in the
dust is like that of the ruffled grouse, which indulge in
the same practice — they sun themselves and at the same
time are rid of vermin. Trnsting to their legs to escape
when alarmed, they take the open ground — the road — until
outrunning pursuit they hide in the chapparel, and thus

*Known as the Mexican Pheasant, though not very good to eat.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 183

acquire the name of " road-runner" or " chapparel cock."
I have never seen any ruffled grouse in the Sierra
Kevada, but a species of these fine birds, are quite abun-
dant in Oregon and Washington territory. I have been able
to solve a question regarding them, upon which naturalists
have disagreed, that is, as to how they drum. Whether the
sound is produced by the wings in concussive blows upon
their bodies, the air, logs or rocks? I am able to say from
personal and careful observation, that the sound of '•' drum-
ming^^^ is made, like the sound of tlie " night jar,^^ exclu-
sively by a peculiar motion of the wings in the air. It is
true, the American "pheasant" or American "partridge,"
commonly stands upon a log while drumming, but I have
watched them while perched upon a dry small branch or
twig, drum for hours most sonorously, calling upon their
rivals to encounter them, and their mistresses to come and
witness their gallantry. Darwin has aptly said: "The
season of love, is that of battle." IN^otwithstanding the
acuteness of observation of Mr. Darwin, he has been led
into error in his statement that wild horses "do not make
any danger signals." They snort and paw the earth with
impatience, when they cannot discover the cause of their
alarm, and almost invariably circle to the leeward of the
object that disturbes them. A mule is the best of senti-
nels to alarm a camp on the approach of danger. Deer and
elk whistle and strike the earth perpendicularly with their
feet when jumping up to discover the cause of alarm. Deer
and antelope are both so inquisitive, that if the hunter has
not been seen, or has been but imperfectly seen, by dropping
into the grass or brush, and raising some object to view and
suddenly withdrawing it, the deer or antelope will fre-
quently come up within a few feet of the object. Antelope
are especially curious to know what disturbs them.

The coyotes, or small wolves, and the grey or tree climb-

184 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

mg foxes of California, make a kind of barking noise, more
like the bark of a small dog than the howl of a wolf, and
therefore barking is not so much of ^' an acquired ^^ art as
has been supposed, though the " laughter" of dogs is more
or less acquired.

The whistle of the elk is as complete a call to his mis-
tress, and is as well understood, as though the female had
said, " Whistle and I'll come to jou." Elk and antelope
are still to be found in California, as well as wild horses, but
they are now quite timid, and resort to unfrequented ranges.
The best hunting now to be found in California, except for
water-fowl, is in the region of Kern River. IS'ear its source
big-horn or mountain sheep may be killed, and from along
the base of the eastern slope, antelope range into the des-
ert. Deer and bear may be found on either slope of the
range, and among the broken hills south of the head of Tu-
lare valley.

Wolves, foxes, badgers, coons, and other fur-clothed ani-
mals, are also quite numerous. I have dared to question
some of Mr. Darwin's facts, and as I expect this to be my
last literary effort (oh, ye reviewers!), I wish to remind the
publishers of Webster's Dictionary that a beaver is not an
" amphihious^^ animal, neither is a muscalonge " an over-
grown pickerel."

A few days after we had moved camp to the south side
of the Merced, Captain Boling was prostrated with an at-
tack of pneumonia. From frequent wettings received while
crossing the ice-cold torrents, and a too free use of this
snow-water, which did not agree with many, he had for
some days complained of slight illness, but after this at-
tack he was compelled to acknowledge himself sick. Al-
though the severe symptoms continued but a few days, his
recovery was lingering, and confined him to camp; con-
sequently he knew but little of his rocky surroundings.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 185

Although reo^ular reports were made to him by the scout
ing parties, he had but an imperfect conception of the la-
bors performed by them in clambering over the rocks of
the canons and mountains. He would smile at the re-
ports the more enthusiastic gave of the wonders discov-
ered; patiently listen to the complaints of the more practi-
cal at their want of success in, what they termed, their fu-
tile explorations; and finally concluded to suspend opera-
tions until the fast-melting snow had so disappeared from
the high mountain passes as to permit our taking a supply-
train, in order to make our search thorough. The winter
had been an unusually dry and cold one — so said the In-
dians— and, as a consequence, the accumulations of snow
in the passes and lake basins had remained almost intact.
A succession of mountain storms added to the drifts, so
that when the snow finally began to melt, the volume of
water coming from the "High Sierras" was simply pro-
digious— out of all proportion to the quantity that had fal-
len upon the plains below.

Sandino persisted in trying to make the Captain believe
that most of the Yosemites had already gone through the
Mono Pass, and that those remaining hidden, were but the
members of Ten-ie-ya's family. This theory was not ac-
cepted by Capt. Boling, and occasional scouting parties
would still be sent out. A few of us continued to make
short excursions, more for adventure and to gratify curiosity,
than with the expectation of discovering the hiding places
of the Indians; although we kept up the form of a search.
We thus became familiar with most of the objects of in-
terest.

The more practical of our command could not remain
quiet in camp during this suspension of business. Beside
the ordinary routine of camp duties, they engaged in ath-
letic sports and horse-racing. A very fair race track was

186 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

cleared and put in condition, and some of the owners of
fast horses were very much surprised, to see their favorites
trailing behind some of the fleet-footed mules. A malttse
Kentucky blooded mule, known as the "Yining Mule," dis-
tanced all but one horse in the command, and so pleased
was Oapt. Eoling with its gracefully supple movements,
that he paid Yining for it a thousand dollars in gold.

For a change of amusement, the members of our "Jockey
Club" would mount their animals and take a look at such
points of interest as had been designated in our camp-fire
conversations as most remarkable. Tlie scenery in the Yo-
semite and vicinity, which is now familiar to so many, was
at that time looked upon with varied degrees of individual
curiosity and enjoyment, ranging from the enthusiastic, to al-
most a total indifference to the sublime grandeur presented.
It is doubtful if any of us could have given a very graphic
description of what we saw, as the impressions then receiv-
ed were so far below the reality. Distance, height, depth
and dimensions were invariably under-estimated; notwith-
standing this, our attempts at descriptions after our return
to the settlements, were received as exaggerated "yarns."

While in Mariposa, upon one occasion not very long after
the discovery of Yosemite, I was solicited by Wm. T. Whit-
achre, a newspaper correspondent from San Francisco, to
furnish him a written description of the Yalley. This, of
course, was beyond my ability to do; but I disinterestedly
complied with his request as far as I could, by giving him
some written details to work upon. On reading the paper
over, he advised me to reduce my estimates of heights of
cliffs and waterfalls, at least fifty per centum, or my judg-
ment would be a subject of ridicule even to my personal
friends. I had estimated El Capitan at from fifteen hun-
dred to two thousand feet high; the Yosemite Fall at about
fifteen hundred feet, and other prominent points of interest
in about the same proportion.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 187

To convince me of mv error of judgment, he stated that
he had interviewed Captain Boling and some others, and
that none had estimated the higliest cliffs above a thousand
feet. He further said that he would not like to risk his own
reputation as a correspondent, without considerable modifi-
cation of mj statements, etc. Feeling outraged at this im-
putation, I tore up the manuscript, and left the " newspaper
man" to obtain where he could such data for his patrons as
would please him. It remained for those who came after
us to examine scientifically, and to correctly describe what
we only observed as wonderful natural curiosities. With
but few exceptions, curiosity was gratified by but superfi-
cial examination of the objects now so noted. We were
aware that the valley was high up in the regions of the Sier-
ra Nevada, but its altitude above the sea level was only
guessed at. The heights of its immense granite walls was
an uncertainty, and so little real appreciation was there in
the battalion, that some never climbed above the Vernal
Fall. They knew nothing of the beauties of the Nevada Fall,
or the " Little Yosemite." We, as a body of men, were
aware that the mountains, canons and waterfalls were on a
grandly extensive scale, but of the proportions of that scale
we had arrived at no very definite conclusions.

During our explorations of the Sierras, we noticed the
effects of the huge avalanches of snow and ice that had in
some age moved over the smooth granite rocks and plowed
the deep canons. The evidences of past glacial action were
frequently visible; so common, in fact, as hardly to be ob-
jects of special interest to us. The fact that glaciers in
motion existed in the vast piles of snow on the Sierras, was
not dreamed of by us, or even surmised by others, until
discovered, in 1870, by Mr. John Muir, a naturalist and
most persistent mountain explorer, who by accurate tests
verified the same, and gave his facts to the world. Mr.

188 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Muir has also brought into prominent notice, by publica-
tions in " Scribner's Monthly Illustrated Magazine," some
ofthe beautiful lakes of the Sierras, having discovered many
unknown before. Mr. Muir's descriptions combine the
most delightful imagery with the accuracy of a true lover
of nature. His article upon the water-auszel, "The hum-
ming-bird of the California waterfalls," in the same maga-
zine, proves him a most accomplished observer.

All of the smaller streams that pour their tribute into the
valley during the melting of the snow, become later in the
season but dry ravines or mere rivulets, but the principal
tributaries, running up, as they do, into the lake and snow
reservoirs, continue throughout the dry season to pour their
ample supply. After returning from my mountain explor-
ations, 1 freely questioned Ten-ie-ya of the places we had
visited. The old chief had gradually assumed his custom-
ary manner of sociability, and if convinced by outline maps
in the sand that we were familiar with a locality, he would
become quite communicative, and give the names of the
places described in distinct words. Our English alphabet
utterly fails to express the sounds of many of them, for
they were as unpronounceable as Apache. This difficulty
is owing more or less to the guttural termination given by
the Indians.

Another important fact which causes a confusion of these
names is, that owing to the poverty of their language, they
use the same word, or what seems to be the same, for several
objects, which by accent, comparison and allusion, or by
gestures, are readily understood by them, but which it is dif-
ficult for one not familiar with the dialect to comprehend,
and still more difficult to illustrate or remember. This I
shall endeavor to demonstrate in giving the names applied
to different localities in the valley and vicinity.

While I was endeavoring to ascertain the names of local-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 189

ities from Ten-ie-ja, he was allowed some privileges in
camp, but was not permitted to leave his guard. The cun-
ning old fellow watclied his opportunity, and again made
an attempt to escape by swimming tlie river; but he was
again foiled, and captured by the watchfulness and surpris-
ing strength of Sergeant Cameron.

From this time Ten-ie-ya was secured by a rope which
was fastened around his waist. The only liberty allowed
was tlie extent of the rope with which he was fastened. He
was a hearty feeder, and was liberally supplied. From a
lack of sufficient exercise, his appetite cloyed, and he suf-
fered from indigestion. He made application to Captain
Boling for permission to go out from camp to the place
where the grass was growing, saying the food he had been
supplied with was too strong; that if he did not have grass
he should die. He said the grass looked good to him, and
there was plenty of it. Why tlien should he not have it,
when dogs were allowed to eat it?

The Captain was amused at the application, with its iro-
ny, but surmised that he was meditating another attempt
to leave us; however, he good humoredly said: "He can
have a ton of fodder if lie desires it, but I do not think it
advisable to turn him loose to graze." The Captain con-
sented to the Sergeant's kindly arrangements to tether him,
and he was led out to graze upon the young clover, sorrel,
bulbous roots and fresh growth of ferns which were then
springing up in the valley, one species of which we found a
good salad. All of these he devoured with the relish of a
hungry ox. Occasionally truffles or wood-mushrooms were
brought him by Sandinoand our allies, as if in kindly sym-
pathy for him, or in acknowledgment of his rank. Such
presents and a slight deference to his standing as a chief,
were always received with grunts of satisfaction. He was
easily flattered by any extra attentions to his pleasure. At

190 DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS EMITS,

such times he was singularly amiable and conversational.
Like many white men, it was evid.nt tliat his more liberal
feelings could be the easiest aroused through his stomach.

Oar supplies not being deemed sufficient for the expedi-
tion over the Sierras, and as those verdureless mountains
would provide no forage for our animals, nor game to
lengthen out our rations unless we descended to the lower
levels, Capt. Baling sent a pack train to the Fresno for
barley and extra rations. All of our Indians except Sandino
and Ten-ie-ya were allowed to go below with the detachment
sent along as escort for the train. While waiting for these
supplies, some of the command who had been exploring
up Indian Canon, reported fresh signs at the head of that
ravine. Feeling somewhat recovered in strength, Captain
Boling decided to undertake a trip out, and see for himself
some of our surroundings. Accordingly, the next morning,
he started with some thirty odd men up Indian Canon.
His design was to explore the Scho-look or Scho-tal-lo-wi
branch (Yosemite Creek) to its source, or at least the South-
ern exposures of the divide as far east as we could go and
return at night. Before starting, I advised the taking of
our blankets, for a bivouac upon the ridge, as from experi-
ence I was aware of the difficult and laborious ascent, and
intimated that the excursion would be a laborious one for
an invalid, if the undertaking was accomplished. The Cap-
tain laughed as he said: "Are your distances equal to
your heights? If they correspond, we shall have ample
time!" Of course, I could make no reply, for between us,
the subject of heights had already been exhausted, although
the Captain had not yet been to the top of the inclosing
walls.

Still, realizing the sensitive condition of his lungs, and
his susceptibility to the influences of the cold and light
mountain air, I knew it would not be prudent for him to

AND INDIAN ]VAR OF 1851. 191

camp at the snow-line; and jet I doubted his ability to re-
turn the same day; for this reason 1 felt it my duty to cau-
tion him. A few others, who had avoided climbing the
cliffs, or if they had been upon any of the high ridges,
their mules had taken them there, joined in against my
suggestion of providing for the bivouac. I have before re-
ferred to the Texan's devotion to the saddle. In it, like
Camanche Indians, he will undergo incredible hardships;
out of it, he is soon tired, and waddles laboriously like a
sailor, until the unaccustomed muscles adapt themselves to
the new service required of them; but the probabilities are
against the new exercise being continued long enough to
accomplish this result. Understanding this, I concluded
in a spirit of jocularity to make light of the toil myself;
the more so, because I knew that my good Captain had no
just conception of the labor before him. By a rude pro-
cess of measurement, and my practical experience in other
mountains in climbing peaks whose heights had been es-
tablished by measurements, I had approximately ascer-
tained or concluded that my first estimate of from fifteen
hundred to two thousand feet for the height of El Capitan,
was much below the reality. I had so declared in discuss-
ing these matters. Captain Boling had finally estimated
the height not to exceed one thousand feet. Doctor Black's
estimate was far below this. I therefore felt assured that
a walk up the canon, would practically improve their judg-
ments of height and distance, and laughed within myself
in anticipation of the fun in store. On starting, I was
directed to take charge of Ten-ie-ya, whom we were to take
with us, and to keep Sandino near me, to interpret anything
required during the trip. As we entered Indian Canon,
the old chief told the Captain that the ravine was a bad
one to ascend. To this the Captain replied, " No matter,
we know this ravine leads out of the valley; Ten-ie-ya's
trail might lead us to a warmer locality."

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Climbing over the wet, mossy rocks, we readied a level
where a halt was called for a rest. As Doctor Black came
lip from the rear, he pointed to a ridge above us, and ex-
claimed, "Thank God, we are in sight of the top at last.''
" Yes, Doctor," said I, " that is one of the first tops." " How
so? " he inquired; " Is not that the summit of this ravine? "
To this I cheerfully replied, "You will find quite a number
of such tops before jou emerge from this canon." Noticing
his absence before reaching the summit, I learned he took
the trail back, and safely found his weary way to camp.
Captain Boling had over-estimated his strength and endur-
ance. He was barely able to reach the table land at the head
of the ravine, where, after resting and lunching, he visited the
Falls, as he afterwards informed me. By his order I took
command of nine picked men and the two Indians. With
these I continued the exploration, while the party with the
Captain exjplored the vicinity of the High Fall, viewed the
distant mountains, and awaited my return from above.

With my energetic little squad, I led the way, old Ten-
ie ya in front, Sandino at his side, through forest openings
and meadows, until we reached the open rocky ground on
the ridge leading to what is now known as Mt. Hoffman.
I directed our course towards that peak. We had not trav-
eled very far, the distance does not now impress me, when
as we descended toward a tributary of Yosemite creek, we
came suddenly upon an Indian, who at the moment of dis-
covery was lying down drinking from the brook. The bub-
bling waters had prevented his hearing our approach. We
hurried up to within fifty or sixty yards, hoping to capture
him, but were discovered. Seeing his supposed danger, he
bounded off, a fine specimen of youthful vigor. 'Eo race-
horse or greyhound could have seemingly made better time
than he towards a dense forest in the valley of the Scho-look.
Several rifles were raised, but I gave the order "don't shoot,"

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 193

and compelled the old chief to call to him to stop. The young
Indian did stop, but it was at a safe distance. When an at-
tempt was made by two or three to move ahead and get
close to him, he saw the purpose and again started; neither
threatening rifles, nor the calls of Ten-ie-ya, could again
stop his flight.

As we knew our strength, after such a climb, was not
equal to the chase of the fleet youth, he was allowed to go un-
molested. I could get no information from Ten-ie-ya concern-
ing the object of the exploration; and as for Sandino, his
memory seemed to ha«i^e conveniently failed him. With this
conclusion I decided to continue my course, and moved off
rapidly. Ten-ie-ya complained of fatigue, and Sandino
reminded me that I was traveling very fast. My reply to
both cut short all attempts to lessen our speed; and when
either were disposed to lag in their gait, I would cry out
the Indian word, " We-teach," meaning hurry up, with
such emphasis as to put new life into their movements.

We soon struck an old trail that led east along the south-
ern slope of the divide, and when I abandoned my purpose
of going farther towards the Tuolumne, and turned to the
right on the trail discovered, Ten-ie-ya once more found
voice in an attempt to dissuade me from this purpose, say-
ing that the trail led into the mountains where it was very
cold, and where, without warm clothing at night, we would
freeze. He was entirely too earnest, in view of his previous
taciturnitj^; and I told him so.

The snow was still quite deep on the elevated portions
of the ridge and in shaded localities, but upon the open
ground, the trail was generally quite bare. As we reached
a point still farther east, we perceived the trail had been
recently used; the tracks had been made within a day or
two. From the appearances, we concluded they were made
by Ten-ie-ya's scouts who had followed down the ridge and
13

194 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

slope west of the l^orth Dome to watch our movements.
The tracks were made going- and returning, thus showing a
continued use of this locality. As the tracks diverged from
the trail at this point, thej led out of the direct line of any
communication with the valle}'', and after some reflection,
I was satisfied that we had struck a clue to their hiding
place, and realizing that it was time to return if we expected
to reach the valley before dark, we turned about and started
at once on the down grade.

We found the Captain anxiously awaiting our return.
He was pleased with our report, and agreed in the conclu-
sion that the Indians were encamped not very far off. Cap-
tain Boling had suffered from fatigue and the chill air of
the mountains. In speaking of a farther pursuit of our
discoveries, he said: " I am not as strong as I supposed, and
will have to await the return of the pack train before tak-
ing part in these expeditions."

I told Captain Boling that upon tlie trip, Sandino had
appeared willfully ignorant when questioned concerning
the country we were exploring, and my belief that he stood
in fear of Ten-ie-ya; that as a guide, no dependence could
be placed upon him, and that his interpretations of Ten-ie-
ya's sayings were to be received with caution when given
in the old chief's presence, as Ten-ie-ya's Spanish was
about equal to his own. Captain Boling instructed me to
tell Sandino, that in future, he need only act as interpreter.
He seemed satisfied with this arrangement, and said that
the country appeared different from what it was when he
was a boy and had been accustomed to traverse it.

"When we commenced our descent into the valley Ten-ie-
ya wanted us to branch off to the left, saying he was very
tired, and wanted to take the best trail. Said he, " There
is a good trail through the arrow-wood rocks to the left of
the canon." I reported this to the Captain, and expressed

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 195

tlie opinion that the old chief was sincere for once; he had
grumbled frequently while we were ascending the canon in
the morning, because we were compelled to climb over the
moss covered bowlders, while crossing and re-crossing the
stream, and he told Sandino that we sliould have taken the
trail along the cliff above. Captain Boling replied: "Take
it, or it will be long after dark before we reach camp."
Accordingly I let Ten-ie-ya lead the way, and told him to
travel fast. He had more than once proved that he possess-
ed an agility beyond his years. As his parole was at a dis-
count, I secured a small cord about his chest and attached
the other end to my left wrist to maintain telegraphic com-
munication with him; but as the hidden trail narrowed and
wound its crooked way around a jutting point of the cliff
overlooking the valley and ravine, I slipped the loop from
my wrist and ordered a halt.

Captain Boling and the men with him came up and took
in the view before us. One asked if I thought a bird could
go down there safely. Another wanted to know if I was
aiding " Old Truthful" to commit suicide. The last ques-
tion had an echo of suspicion in my own thoughts. I im-
mediately surmised it possible the old sachem was leading
us into another trap, where, by some preconcerted signal,
an avalanche of rocks would precipitate us all to the bottom.
I asked Ten-ie-ya if this -trail was used by his people; he
assured me it was, by women and children; that it was a
favorite trail of his. Seeing some evidences of it having
been recently used, and being assured by Sandino that it
was somewhere below on this trail that Ten-ie-ya had de-
scended to the valle}^ when taken a prisoner, a few of us
were shamed into a determination to make the attempt to
go where the old chief could go.

Most of the party turned back. They expressed a will-
ingness to fight Indians, but they had not, they said, the

196 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

faith requisite to attempt to walk on water, much less air.
They went down Indian Canon, and some did not reach camp
until after midnight, tired, bruised and footsore. We who
had decided to take our chances, re-commenced our descent.
1 told Ten-ie-ja to lead on, and to stop at the word " halt,"
or he would be shot. I then dispatched Sandino across
the narrow foot- way, which, at this point was but a few
inches in width, and which was all there was dividing us
from Eternity as we passed over it. Telling them both to
lialt on a projecting bench in view, I crossed this yawning
abyss, while Sandino, aided by a very dead shot above, held
the old man as if petrified, until I was able once more to
resume my charge of him.

This I found was the only really dangerous place, on
what was facetiously called, by those who were leaving us,
" a very good trail." The last fifty or sixty I'eet of the de-
scent was down the sloping side of an immense detached
rock, and then down through the top of a black oak tree at
the south-westerly base of the vast clifi:' or promontory
known as the "Arrow- wood Cliff." The^Koyal Arches,"
the " Washington Column," and the " North Dome," occu-
py positions east of this trail, but upon the same vast pile
of granite.

I sometime afterward pointed out the trail to a few vis-
itors that I happened to meet at its foot. They looked up-
on me with an incredulous leer, and tapped their foreheads
significantly, muttering something about " Stockton Asy-
lum." Fearing to trust my amiability too far, I turned and
left them. Since then I have remained cautiously silent.
Now that the impetuosity of youth has given place to the
more deliberative counsels of age, and all dangers to my-
self or others are past, I repeat, for the benefit of adventur-
ous tourists, that on the southwesterly face of the cliff

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 197

overlooking the valley and Indian Canon, there is a trail
hidden from view, that they may travel if they will, and
experience all the sensations that could ever have been felt,
while alive, by a Blondin or LaMountain.

This portion of the cliff we designated as Ten-ie-ya's
Trail, and it accords well with the scene in the Jungfran
Mountains, where Manfred, alone upon the cliffs, says:

"And you, ye craigs, upon whose extreme edge
I stand, and on the torrent's brink beneath
Behold the tall pines dwindled as to shrubs,
In dizziness of distance; when a leap,
A stir, a motion, even a breath, would bring
My breast upon its rocky bosom's bed
To rest forever— wherefore do I pause?
I feel the impulse— yet I do not plunge;
I see the peril— yet do not recede;
And my brain reels— and yet my foot ie firm:
There is a power upon me which withholds.
And makes it my fatality to live."

198 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

CHAPTEK XIII.

The Indian Names — Difficulty of their Interpretation — Circumstances
Sug-g-esting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls — Mr.
Richardson's Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow — Py-we-
ack Misplaced, and ^^Illiluette'''' an Absurdity — An English Name
Suggested for Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nii-la —
Indian Superstitions and Spiritual Views — A Free National Park De-
sirable— Otf on the Trail.

During our long stay in the Yosemite, I discovered that
almost every prominent object and locality in and about it,
had some distinctive appellation. Every peak and cliff, every
canon or ravine, meadow, stream and waterfall, had a desig-
nation by which it could be distinguished by the Yosemites.
I made considerable effort to acquire these names in their
native purity. Although I did not at that time learn all
of them, I did in subsequent visits to the valley and to the
camps of the remnants of the tribes, acquire, as I then be-
lieved, a very nearly correct pronunciation of most of them.
I used all the advantages afforded by my position as one of
the Spanish interpreters, and a])plied myself perseveringly
to the task of preserving these names; for even at that early
day I realized that public interest would, in time, be at-
tached to that wonderful locality. I was ridiculed for the
idea, or at least for the supposition that it probably would
be awakened during my life-time.

I obtained many of the names of objects and locations
from old Ten-ie-ya himselt, whenever I could find him in
a communicative mood. As he was reputed to be quite a

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 199

linguist, speaking, besides his native Ah-wah-ne-cliee, the
Pai-ute, and other dialects, I regarded his authority as
•superior to that of either the Po-ho-no or l^oot-chii Indians,
who difiered from him in the pronunciation of some of the
names.

I was unable to converse with Ten-ie-ya except through
an interpreter, but tlie words I noted down from the old
chief's lips as they sounded to my ear at the time, getting
the signification as best I could, or not at all. There is
really no more sentiment or refined imagery of expression
among Indians than will be found among ignorant people
of any kind. But living as they do in close affinity with
nature, natural objects first attract their attention, and the
dominant characteristics of any object impress themselves
upon their language. Hence many of their words are sup-
posed to be representative of natural sounds. OurPo-ho-no-
chee and Noot-chii scouts were familiar with the dialect
in common use by the Yosemites, and they also aided me,
while at times they confused, in acquiring the proper names.
The territory claimed by the Po-ho-no-chees, joined that of
tlie Yosemites on the south. During the Summer months,
they occupied the region of the Po-ho-no Meadows, and the vi-
cinity of the Pohono Lake. Their territory, however, extend-
ed to the right bank of the South Fork of the Merced. It was
there we found a little band on our first expedition. Some
of this band were quite intelligent, having with the ]S"oot-
chiis, worked for Major Savage. It was from them that
tlie Major first learned that the Yosemites were a composite
band, collected from the disaffected of other bands in that
part of California, and what is now Nevada; and as the
Major said, the dialect in common use among them was
nearly as much of a mixture as the components of the band
itself, for he recognized Pai-ute, Kah-we-ah and Oregon
Indian words among them.

200 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Major Savage was intimately familiar with the dialects
of his Indian miners and customers, and was probably at
that time the best interpreter in California of the different
mountain dialects.

I consulted him freely as to the pronunciation of the
names, and learned his interpretation of the meaning of
them. These names, or most of them, were first given for
publication by myself, as received from the Yosemites and
Po-ho-no-chees ; together with English names which had been
given to some of the same points by the battalion. I pur-
posely avoided all attempts at description, giving instead,
a few estimates of heights. The data then furnished by
myself was published in editorials, and has been mostly
preserved, though in an imperfect state, from some fault in
my writing or that of the proof-reader. Reference to old
files of the " California Chronicle," " Sacramento Union,"
" California Farmer " and the Mariposa papers, will show a
somewhat different orthography from that now in use.*

While in the valley I made memoranda of names and
important events, which I have preserved, and which, with
interpretations kindly furnished me by Mr, B. B. Travis, an
excellent modern interpreter, I am now using to verify my
recollections and those of my comrades. While acquiring
these names, I employed every opportunity to make them
familiar, but this proved to be a thankless task, or at least
it was an impossible one. The great length of some of the
names, and the varied pronunciations, made the attempt an
impracticable one. I then gave attention to the substitution

*Mr. Winchester, connected with some eastern publication, accompa-
nied Captain Doling and myself, in the latter part of June, 1851, as far
as the Tehon Pass. During the trip I gave him a full account of the op-
erations of the battalion, which he took notes of, and said he should pub-
ish on arriving home. His health was very poor, and I doubt if his
manuscript was ever published. I never heard from him afterwards.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 201

of suitable English names in place of the Indian words, and
to supersede the fantastic and absurd ones already suggest-
ed and affixed by some of the command. It is so custom-
ary for frontiersmen to give distinctive names of their own
coinage, that we had great difficulty in getting any of the
Indian names adopted; and considerable judgment had to
be exercised in selecting such English names as would
" stick" — as would displace such names as the " Giant's
Pillar," "Sam Patch's Falls," "The Devil's Night-Cap,"
etc., etc. Many English names were given because they
were tliought to be better than the Indian names, which
could not be remembered or pronounced, and the meaning
of which was not understood. The English names airreed
upon and adopted at that time have since been retained, not-
withstanding some adverse criticisms and effijrts to super-
sede them by some fancied Indian or mythological substi-
tute. Some of these names were the selection of my com-
rades— " Cloud's Kest," for one; because upon our first visit
the party exploring the " Little Yosemite" turned back and
hastened to camp upon seeing the clouds rapidly settling
down to rest upon that mountain, thereby indicating the
snow storm that soon followed.

The most of the names were however, selected by myself,
and adopted by our command. This deference was awarded
to my selections because I was actively interested in acquir-
ing the Indian names and significations, and because I was
considered the most interested in the scenery.

I have related in a previous chapter the incident of se-
lecting the name "Yosemite" for the valley, not then
knowing its Indian name. As the " High Fall," near
which we were encamped, appeared to be the principal one
of the Sierras, and was the fall jpar excellence, I gave that
the name of "Yosemite Falls," and in so naming it I but
followed out the idea of the Indians who called it " Choo-

202 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

look" or "Scholook," which signifies in this case " The
Fall. " A comparison of the Yosemite Falls with those known
in other parts of the world, will show that in elements of
picturesque beauty, height, volume, color and majestic sur-
roundings, the Yosemite has no rival upon earth. The
Zambesi and Niagara are typical of volume, but the Yo-
semite is sixteen times greater in height than Niagara, and
about eight times that of the Victoria Falls. The upper
part of the Yosemite is more than twice the height of the
Svoringvoss, of Norway, and lacks but thirty feet of being
twice as high as the highest of the Southerland waterfalls,
of New Zealand. The three falls of the Southerland
aggregate but 1,904 feet, 730 less than the Yosemite.

The Ribbon Fall of the El Capitan has a sheer descent
of 2,100 feet, but its beauty disappears with the melting
snow. The other falls were only designated by the names
of the streams upon which they are situated. The
river Merced was spoken of as the river of Ah-wah-
ne; but the three principal branches were variously desig-
nated; the main, or middle, up to the Vernal Fall, as
"Yan-o-pah," the "Water Cloud" branch, and above the
Vernal, as "Yo-wy-we-ack," "the twisting rock branch."

The north and south branches had their distinctive names;
the north, Py-we-ack, meaning the branch of the " Glis-
tening Rocks," and the south, Too-lool-we-ack, or more
definitely, Too-lool-lo-we-ack. The modern interpretations
of some of these names may be regarded as quite fanci-
ful, though Major Savage would declare that Indian lan-
guages were so full of figures of speech that without imag-
ination they could not be understood.

The strictly literal interpretation of this name would be
inadraissable, but it is well enough to say, that to the un-
conscious innocence of their ])rimitive state, the word sim-
ply represented an efibi't of ii;iture in the difiicult passage of
the water down through the rocky gorge. It is derived from

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 203

Too-lool and We-ack, and means, 6 -Korafio^^ 6(^ did nerpdt; ovpet.
This name has been published as if by anthoritj to signify
'^TTie BeautifuV* — how beautiful, the learned in Greek may
judge.

This really beautiful fall was visited by few of our bat-
talion, and owing to the impracticability of following up
the canon above the fall, and the great difficulty of access
to it, it was left neglected; the command contenting itself
with a distant view. In view of the discoveries of Mr.
Muir that there were glaciers at its source, and that the
cliff now known as " Glacier Point" may be said to mark
the entrance to this *' South Cailon," a name often con-
founded with " South Fork," and especially because of the
impropriety of translating this Indian name, I think it ad-
visable to call this the Glacier Fall, and, therefore, give it
that name in this volume. The name of " Illeiiette " is not
Indian, and is, therefore, meaningless and absurd. In ac-
cordance with the customs of these mountain people of
naming their rivers from the most characteristic features of
their source, the North or Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced,
which comes down the North Canon from the glistening
glacial rocks at its source, was called Pv-we-ack, " the river
of glistening rocks," or more literally, perhaps, " the river-
smoothed rocks." Whether from Pai, a river, or from Py-
ca-bo, a spring, I am in doubt. If the first syllable of the
name Py-we-ack be derived from Py-ca-bo, then, probably,
the name signified to them '' the glistening rock spring
branch," as the ice-burnished rocks at the head of Lake Ten-
ie-ya stand at the source of the river.

I have never been satisfied with the poetical interpreta-
tion given the name, nor with its transfer to " Yan-o-pah,"
the branch of the "little cloud," as rendered by Mr. Travis.
But as Py-we-ack has been displaced from Lake Ten-ie-ya
and Hs or^et, it is proper and in accordance with the cus-

204 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

torn to call the branch Ten-ie-ja also. The name of Ten-
ie-ya was given to the lake at the time of its discovery.
It was there we captured the remnant of the Yosemite
band, as will be explained in the next chapter. The name
of Ten-ie-ya Canon, Ten-ie-ya Fork and Lake Ten-ie-ya,
has for this reason superseded the original name of Py-we-
ack; but in naming the lake, I preserved an Indian name
that represented the central figure in all of our operations.

"Wai-ack was the name for "Mirror Lake," as well as for
the mountain it so perfectly reflected. The lake itself was
not particularly attractive or remarkable, but in the early
morning, before the breeze swept up the canon, the reflec-
tions were so perfect, especially of what is now known as
Mt. Watkins, that even our scouts called our attention to it
by pointing and exclaiming: "Look at Wai-ack," interpre-
ted to mean the "Water Rock." This circumstance sug-
gested the name of " Mirror Lake." The name was opposed
by some, upon the ground that all still water w^as a mirror.
My reply established the name. It was that other condi-
tions, such as light and shade, were required, as when look-
ing into a well, the wall of the Half Dome perfecting the
conditions, and that when shown another pool that was
more deserving, we would transfer the name. Captain
Boling approved the name, and it was so called by the bat-
talion.

The middle or main branch was designated by the Yosem-
ites — from the fork of the Glacial Branch up to the Yernal
Fall — as Yan-o-pah, because they were compelled to pass
through the spray of the Yernal, to them a "little cloud,"
while passing up this canon. The Indian name of the ]N'e-
vada Fall, " Yo-wy-we," or Yo-wy-ye, and that of Too-lool-
lo-we-ack, afforded innumerable jests and amusing com-
ments, and when the suggestion of naming these falls was
made, it was received with rude hilarity. Names without

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 205

number were presented as improvements on the originals.
These names were indeed more than mj own gravity would
endure; Yo-wy-we being represented at first to signify the
" wormy" water, from the twist or squirm given to the wa-
ter in falling upon an obstructing rock; and therefore, after
consultation with a few of my personal friends, I suggested
Yernal, as an English name for Yan-o-pah, and Nevada, for
that of Yo-wy-we. The IS'evada Fall was so called because
it was the nearest to the Sierra Nevada, and because the
name was suflSciently indicative of a wintry companion for
our spring.

It would be a difficult task to trace out and account for
all of oar impressions, or for the forms they take; but my
recollection is that the cool, moist air, and newly-springing
Kentucky blue-grass at the Yernal, with the sun shining
through the spray as in an April shower, suggested the sen-
sation of sjDring before the name of Yernal occurred to me;
while the white, foaming water, as it dashed down Yo-wy-
we from the snowy mountains, represented to my mind a
vast avalanche of snow. In concluding my advocacy of
these names, I represented the fact that while we were en-
joying the vernal showers below, hoarj^-headed winter was
pouring his snowy avalanches above us. Then, quoting
from Byron, I said:

The Yernal ** * mounts in spray the skies, and thence again
Returns in an unceasing shower, which round
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain,
Is an eternal April to the ground,
Making it all one emerald."

These names were given during our long stay in the val-
ley, at a time when

** The fragrant strife of sunshine with the mom
Sweeten'd the air to ecstasy! "

It is agreeably complimentary for me to believe that our
motives in giving English names were comprehended, and

206 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

oiir action in the matter appreciated by others. Mr. Rich-
ardson, in " Beyond the Mississippi," shows an ahuost in-
tuitive perception of our reasons for adopting the English
names given to the principal falls in the Yosemite. He
says: " These names are peculiarly fitting — Bridal Yeil in-
deed looks like a veil of lace; in summer when Bridal Yeil
and Yosemite dwarf, Yernal still pours its ample torrent,
and Nevada is always white as a snow-drift. The Yosemite
is height, the Yernal is vohime, the Bridal Yeil is softness,
but the Nevada is height, volume and softness combined.
South Fork cataract, most inaccessible of all, we did not
visit. In spring each fall has twenty times as much water
as in summer. On the whole Yosemite is incomparably
the most wonderful feature on our continent." Speaking
of the Yernal Fall, Mr. Richardson says: ^'I saw what to
Hebrew prophet had been a vision of heaven, or the visible
presence of the Almighty. It was the round rainbow — the
complete circle. There were two brilliant rainbows of
usual form, the crescent, the bow proper. But while I looked
the two horns of the inner or lower crescent suddenly
lengthened, extending on each side to my feet, an entire
circle, perfect as a finger ring. In two or three seconds it
passed away, shrinking to the first dimensions. Ten min-
utes later it formed again and again, and again as suddenly
disappeared. Every sharp gust of wind showering the
spray over me, revealed for a moment the round rainbow.
Completely drenched, I stood for an hour and a half and saw
fully twenty times that dazzling circle of violet and gold on
a ground- work of wet, dark rocks, gay dripping flowers and
vivid grasses. I never looked upon any other scene in na-
ture so beautiful and impressive." Mr. Richardson has
with a great deal of enthusiasm given a vivid description of
what appeared to me as a glowing representation of youth-
ful spring; and to which the name of "vernal "was, I
think, consistently and appropriately applied.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 207

Mr. Hutchings, in criticising the name Yernal, has mis-
stated the Indian name for this fall, fnrnished him by
myself, and pnl)lis]ied in his magazine and his " Scenes of
Wonder; " and wliile neglecting to speak in terms of the
vivid green of tlie yielding sod^ that "squirts" water, he
eloquently describes the characteristics of a vernal shower;
or the Yosemites "little water clond," Oan-o-pah ; or, if
it pleases him better, Yan-o-pah. The name given by the
Yosemites to the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced was un-
mistakably Pj'-we-ack. This name has been transferred
from its original locality by some romantic preserver of
Indian names, "While passing over to Yan-o-pah, it was
provided with an entirely new signification. It is indeed
a laughable idea for me to even suppose that a worm and
acorn-eating Indian would ever attempt to construct a name
to mean "« shower of s^arHing crystals;'''^ his diet must
have been improved by m.odern intelligent culture. The
signification is certainly poetical, and is but one step re-
moved from the sublime. One objection only can be raised
against it; it is a little too romantic; something after the
style of the tradition furnished Mr. Bancroft.*

^Names were given to the numerous little streams that
poured into th§ valley during the melting of the snow, and
formed many beautiful water-falls and cascades, but I shall
not attempt to describe them, as it would serve no useful
purpose to give the common-place, and in some instances,
very primdtive names of these ephemeral streams. In any
other mountains, in any other country, great interest would
attach to them; but in the Yosemite, they are but mere
suggestions to the grander objects that overshadow them.

Another witness to the propriety of the English names is
Professor J. D. Whitney, State Geologist. In his admira-
ble "Yosemite Guide Book" he says: "The names given
by the early white visitors to the region, have entirely re-

* From an elaboration of legend interpreted by Stephen M. Cunningham, in
1857.

208 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

placed the native ones; and tliey are, in general, quite suffi-
ciently euphonious and proper, some of them, perhaps
slightly inclined to sentimentality; for if we recognize the
appropriateness of the * Bridal YeiP as a designation for the
fall called Po-ho-no by the Indians, we fail to perceive why
the * Yirgin's Tears' should be flowing on the opposite side
of the valley."

This criticism is undoubtedly just. It seems as if some
one had made an enormous stride across from the poetically
sublime to ridiculous sentimentality. It is fortunate that
the fall dries up early in the season!

The name of " Bridal- Yeil " was suggested as an appro-
priate English name for the Fall of the Pohono by Warren
Bser, Esq., at the time editor of the " Mariposa Democrat,"
while we were visiting the valley together. The appro-
priateness of the name was at once acknowledged, and
adopted as commemorative of his visit. Mr. Bser was a
man of fine culture, a son of the celebrated Doctor Bser
of Baltimore,

The Pohono takes its rise in a small lake known as Lake
Pohono, twelve or fifteen miles in a southernly direction
from the Fall. The stream is fed by several small branches
that run low early in the season.

The whole basin drained, as well as the meadows adja-
cent, was known to us of the battalion, as the Pohono
branch and meadows.

The band who inhabited this region as a summer resort,
called themselves Po-ho-no-chee, or Po-ho-na-chee, meaning
the dwellers in Po-ho-no, as Ah-wah-ne-chee was understood
to indicate the occupants of Ah-wah-nee. This delightful
summer retreat was famous for the growth of berries and
grasses, and was a favorite resort for game. The black seeds
of a coarse grass found there, were used as food. When
pulverized in stone mortars, the meal was made into mush

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 209

and porridge. I found it impossible to obtain the literal
signification of the word, but learned beyond a doubt that
Po-ho-no-chee was in some way connected with the stream.
Ihave recently learned that Fo-ho-no means a daily puffing
wind, and when applied to fall, stream, or meadow, means
simply the fall, stream, or meadow of the puffing wind,
and when applied to the tribe of Po-ho-no-chees, who occu-
pied the meadows in summer, indicated that they dwelled
on the meadows of that stream.

Mr. Cunningham says: "Po-ho-no, in the Indian lan-
guage, means a belt or current of wind coming in puffs and
moving in one direction." There is such a current, in its
season, on the Old Millerton Eoad, where the dust is
swept off clean. The Chow-chilla Indians call that the
Po-ho-no. The Po-ho-no of the Yosemite makes its
appearance where the two cascade creeks enter the canon,
and this air current is daily swept up the canon to the
Bridal Veil Fall, and up its stream, in puffs of great power.
The water is thrown back and up in rocket-like jets, far
above the fall, making it uniquely remarkable among the
wonders of the valley.

Mr. Hutching's interpretation is entirely fanciful, as are
most of his Indian translations."

The name for the little fall to which the name of "Vir-
gin's Tears" has been applied, was known to us as " Pigeon
Creek Fall." The Indian name is "Lung-yo-to-co-ya"; its
literal meaning is ''Pigeon Basket," probably signifying to
them *' Pigeon Nests," or Boost. In explanation of the
name for the creek, I was told that west of El Capitan, in
the valley of the stream, and upon the southern slopes,
pigeons were at times quite numerous. Near the southwest
base of the cliff" we found a large cache. The supplies were
put up on rocks, on trees and on posts. These granaries

210 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

were constructed of twigs, bark and grass, with the tops
covered in and rounded like a large basket.

If this cac/ie had any connection with the name of "Pig-
eon Baskets," Lung-yo-to-co-ja would probably designate
-=' The Pigeon Creek CachS:'

After a reverential salutation, "El Capitan" must now
receive my attention.

It has been stated in print that the signification of Tote-
ack-ah-noo-la was " Crane Mountain," and that the name
was given because of the habit sand-hill cranes had of en-
tering the valley over this cliflP. I never knew of this habit.
Many erroneous statements relating to the Yosemite have
appeared — some in Appleton's Encyclopaedia, and one very
amusing one in Bancroft's Traditions — but none appear to
me more improbable.

During our long stay at our second visit, this cliff was
invariably called by our scouts Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, and with
some slight difference in the terminal syllable, was so called
by Ten-ie-ya. This word was invariably translated to mean
the "Eock Chief," or ''The Captain."

Upon one occasion I asked, " Why do you call the cliff
Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?" The Indian's reply was, " Because he
looks like one." I then asked, " What was meant by hef^^
at the same time saying that the cliff was not a man, to be
called " he." His reply was, " Come with me and see."
Taking Sandino with me, I went, and as the Indian reached
a point a little above and some distance out from the cliff,
he triumphantly pointed to the perfect image of a man's
head and face, with side whiskers, and with an expression
of the sturdy English type, and asked, " Does he not look
like Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?" The " Kock Chief," or "Cap-
tain," was again Sandino's interpretation of the word while
viewing the likeness.

This was the first intimation that any of us had of the

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 211

reason why the name was applied, and it was shown in re-
sponse to the question asked, why the rock had been per-
sonified.

To-tor-kon, is the name for a sand-hill crane, and ni-yul-
ii-ka, is the Pai-ute for head ; but '' crane-head " can scarce-
ly be manufactured out of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la. It appears
to me most probable that Tote-ack-ah-noo-la is derived from
"ack," a rock, and To-whon-e-o, meaning chief. I am not
etymologist enough to understand ju&t how the word has
been constructed, but am satisfied that the primates of the
compound are rock and chief If, liowever, I am found in
error, I shall be most willing to acknowledge it, for few
things appear more uncertain, or more difiicult to obtain,
than a complete understanding of the soul of an Indian
language; principally because of tte ignorance and suspi-
cion with which a persistent and thorough research is met
by the sensitively vain and jealous savages.

In leaving this subject, I would say that before it be too
late, a careful and full collection of vocabularies of all the
tongues should be made. I am aware of what has already
been done by the labors of Schoolcraft, and the officers of
the army in more modern times; but there is yet left a
large field for persistent labor, that should be worked by
the Smithsonian Institute or ethnological societies.

In adopting the Spanish interpretation, "El Capitan,"
for Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, we pleased our mission interpreters
and conferred upon the majestic cliff a name corresponding
to its dignity. When this name was approved it set aside
forever those more numerous than belong to royal families.
It is said by Mr. Hutchings that a profile likeness is read-
ily traced on the angle of the clifil Tiie one pointed out
to me was above the pine tree alcove on the southern face
of the clifi", half way up its wall. It appeared to have been
formed by the peculiar conformation of the rock and oxida-

212 dislOvery of the yosemite,

tion. The chemical stain of iron, or other mineral sub-
stance, had produced this representation, which was looked
upon with superstitious awe.

''The Fallen Kocks," "The Frog Mountains," or "Three
Brothers," the "Yosemite Falls," "The Lost Arrow," "In-
dian Canon " and " The Arrow-wood Eocks " have already
been noticed in these pages. It remains for me to briefly
notice a few more objects and close this chapter. The
names " North Dome," " South Dome " and " Half Dome "
were given by us during our long stay in the valley from
their localities and peculiar conflguration. Some changes
have been made since they were adopted. The peak called
by us the " South Dome " has since been given the name
of "Sentinel Dome," and the " Half Dome," Tis-sa-ack,
represesented as meaning the " Cleft Eock," is now called
by many the "South Donie.""^ The name for the "North
Dome" is To-ko-ya, its literal signification "The Basket."
The name given to the rocks now known as " The Eoyal
Arches " is Scho-ko-ya when alluding to the fall, and means
the " Basket Fall," as coming from To-ko-ya, and when re-
ferring to the rock itself it was called Scho-ko-ni, meaning
the movable shade to a cradle, which, when in position,-
formed an arched shade over the infant's head. The name
of "The Eoyal Arch" was given to it by a comrade who
was a member of the Masonic Fraternity, and it has since
been called "The Eoyal Arches." The " Half Dome" was
figuratively spoken of as "The Sentinel" by our mission
Indians, because of its overlooking the valley. The present
"Sentinel " they called "Loya," a corruption of 011a (Oya),
Spanish for an earthen water-pot. The mountain tribes
use, instead, a long-pointed basket, shaped somewhat like
that rock, which the basket is supposed to resemble.

*This cliff was climbed for the first time by Mr. George G. Anderson,
on October 12th, 1875. It has now a stair- way running over the difficult
part of the ascent.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

213

The name of " Glacier Point" is said to be Pa-til-le-ma,
a translation of wliicli I am unable to give. Ilo-jas, and

SENTINEL ROCK,

(3,043 feet in height.)

not Lo-ja, as bas been stated by some, referred to certain
holes in detached rocks west of the Sentinel, which afforded

214 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

"milling privileges" for a number of squaws, and hence,
the locality was a favorite camp ground. "The Sentinel"
or "Loja," simply marked the near locality of the Ho-yas
or mortars, or ^'The camp ground;" as it does now The
Hotels. It was a common practice for visitors to confer
new names on the objects of their enthusiastic admiration,
and these were Irequeuly given to the public through let-
ters to newspapers, while others may be found in the more
enduring monuments of literature. It is a matter of no
surprise that so few of them ever stuck. But little change
has really been made in the English names for the more
important objects within the valley and in its immediate
vicinity. The Cathedral Eocks and spires, known as Poo-
see-na-chuc-ka, meaning " Mouse-proof Rocks," from a
fancied resemblance in shape to their acorn magazines or
caches, or a suitability for such use, have been somewhat
individualized by their English names.

Of Ko-sii-kong, the name of the "Three Graces," I never
learned the meaning. Ta-pun-ie-me-te is derived from Ta-
pun-ie, meaning the toes, because of walking on tip-toes
across, and referred to the " stepping stones " that were at
the lower ford. Mr. Travis' "succession of rocks" simply
indicated the turning -off place. There are other names
that it appears unimportant for me to notice. They have
been sufficiently well preserved in Professor "Whitney's val-
uable Guide Book.

Some romantic believers in the natural tendencies of the
Indians to be poetical in their expressions, twist the most
vulgar common-place expressions and names into significa-
tions poetically refined, and of devotional sincerity.

Others have taken the same license in their desire to cater
to the taste of those credulous admirers of the noble ked man,
the ideal of romance, the reality of wliora is graded low
down in the scale of humanity. Mr. Hutchings, who, were

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 215

it not for his exuberant imagination, might have learned
better, gives the signification of " Lung-oo-to-koo-va " as
•'Long and Slender," and applies it to what he calls the
Kibbon Fall. Ilis name is better than his interpretation.
Mr. H. also says that the signification of To-toc-ah-nii-la is
"a Serai-Deity;" that of " Tissa-ack " "Goddess of the
Yallej," and that Po-ho-no means " The Spirit of the Evil
Wind."

These interpretations, like the " sparkling shower of crys-
tals " are more artistically imaginative than correct. The
Pai-ute for wind, is Ni-gat, and the Kah-we-ah, is Yah-i,
one or the other of which tongues were used bj the Yosem-
ites; though the Pai-ute, or a dialect of it, was given the
preference.

The savages have a crude, undefinable idea of a Deity or
Great Spirit, a Spirit of Good, who never does them harm,
and whose home is in the happy land they hope to reacli
after death. This happy hereafter, is supposed by most on
the western slope of the Sierras to be located in the West,
while those on th^ eastern slope or within the Colorado
Basin, in Arizona and in Mexico, locate it in the East.
They all have a superstitious fear of evil spirits, which they
believe have the power to do them great harm, and defeat
their undertakings.

They do not as a rule look to the Great Spirit for imme-
diate protection from evil, but instead, rely upon amulets,
incense and charms, or ^' medicine^^ bags. Through these
and certain ceremonies of their priests or " mediums," they
endeavor to protect themselves and their families from the
evil influence of spirits in and out of the flesh.

They believe that .the spirits of the dead who have not,
through proper ceremonies, been released from the body
and allowed at once to go to the happy land, were evil spir-
its that were doomed to haunt certain localities. They

216 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

looked with superstitious awe upon objects and localities,
which to them were of mysterious character. Even familiar
objects were sometimes looked upon as having been taken
possession of by spirits. These spirits it was supposed
could do injurj^ to those who might venture near them
witliout the protection afforded by their charms, or certain
offerings to tlieir priests for indulgences from the spiritual
inhabitants. Streams were often said to be controdod by
spirits, and for this reason, offerings of tobacco and other
substances were at times thrown in as a propitiation for
past offenses, or as an offering for something in expectancy.
They believe that the elements are all under control, or may
be used by the more powerful spirits, and, owing probably
to its infrequency in California, lightning seemed to be an
especial object of awe and wonder to them.

Waterfalls seemed not to engage their attention for their
beauty, but because of the power they manifested; and in
none of their objections made to the abandonment of their
home, was there anything said to indicate any appreciation
of the scenery. Their misfortunes, accidents and failures
were generally believed to have resulted from evil spiritual
interference, and to insure success in any undertaking,
these dark or evil spirits must first be conciliated through
their " medicine men," from whom they obtain absolution.

All spirits that had not been released and taken their
flight to their happy Western spirit-land were considered as
evil; and only the Great Spirit was believed to be very good.
The Indians of the Yosemite Valley did not look upon Tote-
ack-ah-nii-lah as a veritable Deity or " semi-Deity." They
looked upon this cliff, and the representation of the likeness
of a human face, with the same mysterious awe and super-
stitious feeling that they entertained for some other objects;
though perhaps their reverence was in a somewhat higher
degree stimulated by this imposing human appearance; and

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 217

their ability, therefore, the better to personify it. They re-
garded this vastrnountain as an emblem of some mysterious
power, beyond their comjn-ehension. From my knowledo^e
of their religious belief, I have come to the conchision that
tlieir ideas in this direction are wholly spiritual, without
material representation, except as stated, tlirough symbolic
ideas, growing out of their superstitious ignorance, like
some ignorant Christians. They have in imagination peo-
pled the rocks and mountains, woods and valleys, streams
and waterfalls with innumerable spiritual occupants, pos-
sessed of supernatural or spiritual powers, none of which
are believed by them to equal the power of the Great Spirit
whose home is in the West, and who prohibits the return
of the evil ones, until a probationary existence here upon
this earth shall have given them such knowledge of and
disgust with evil as will fit them for the enjoyment of good.

The special inconsistency of this belief seems to be, that
if one of these demons can lure any one to destruction, the
victim will be compelled to take the place and occupation
of the evil spirit, who is at once liberated and takes its flight
to join its family or such members of it, as are already with
the blessed. This idea seemed to be based upon the natural
selfishness of human nature, that would gladly fix its respon-
sibilities and sufierings upon another. A writer in his
descriptions of the Yosemite says: " The savage lowers his
voice to a whisper, and crouches tremblingly past Po-ho-no,
while the very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him,
that the discoverers of the valley obtained it with difiiculty."
These statements were prefaced by the assertion that
" Po-ho-no is an evil spirit of the Indians' mythology." On
our second visit to the valley, it will be remembered, we
found huts built by the Yosemites not far from the Po-ho-no
Fall.

I never found any difficulty in learning the name of this

218 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

fall, or observed any more fear of spirits exhibited at this
fall than at the Yosemite fall; but in later years, for causes
that will appear in the course of this narrative, the little
meadow and detached rocks west of Po-ho-no, and near to
the foot of the Mariposa trail; became haunted ground to
tlie remnant of the band, for disaster and death followed
the commission of crime at that locality.

Savages are seldom able to trace to themselves the cause
of misfortune, and hence evil spirits must bear the burden
of their complaint. For this service they are well paid
through their representatives, the " medicine men." I have
often been amused, and agreeably entertained while listen-
ing to their traditionary literature.

Among the Chippewa and Dahcota tribes, my likeness to
a bi'other, who was a trader, was recognized, and many
times I was honored by a prominent place being given me
in their lodges and at their dances. Some of their myste-
ries I was not permitted to witness, but the consecration of
the ground for the dance, which is performed with great
ceremony, I have several times seen, and had its signification
fully explained to me. The ceremony differs but little among
the different tribes, and consists of invocations, burning in-
cense, scattering down, feathers and evergreens upon the
pathway or floor of the dance, lighting of the sacred fires
with their ancient fire-sticks, which are still preserved
among the priests, and repeating certain cabalistic words,
the meaning of which they do not even pretend to under-
stand, but which are supposed to have a most potent influ-
ence. They also have their pantomimes and romances,
which they repeat to each other like children. This legen-
dary literature is largely imaginative, but I found the Cali-
fornia Indians less poetical in thought and feeling than east-
ern tribes, and less musical, though perhaps as primitively
figurative in expression.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.

219

Tliougli seemingly unimpressed by their sublime sur-
roundings, their figures and comparisons, when not objec-
tionable, were beautiful, because natural. The Pai-ute and
Mono Colony originally established by Ten-ie-ya, was the
i-esult of a desire to improve their physical condition. They
were attached to this valley as a home. The instinctive
attraction that an Indian has for his place of nativity is
incomprehensible; it is more than a religious sentiment;
it is a passion. Here, sheltered in a measure from the
storms of winter, and the burning heat of summer, they met
as in an earthly paradise, to exchange the products of either
side of the Sierras, to engage in a grand hunt and festival
offer up religious sacrifices, and awaken the echoes of the
valley with their vociferous orations. Should their skill
fail them in the chase, and the mountain or brook refuse
their luscious ofterings, they had a never-failing resource in
the skill with which they could dispossess the native Cali-
fornian, or the newly arrived immigrant of his much prized
herds, and translate them to their mountain home. Nor
was there need of herd-men to guard their fleecy flocks or

roving herds, for the
prancing horse or gen-
tle kine, having once
been slid over the slip-
pery gateway, avoided
the obstruction ever
after; and remained
contented in their
fields of blue grass
and clover.

But, when the in-
fluence of the " gold .
en era" finally reached
this once blissfully ig-

THE INDIAN liELLB,

220 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

norant people, and wants were created that their belles and
beaux had never known before, their imaginations excited
bv the superfluities of civilization, their natural cunning
came at once to their aid, and lo! the "honest miner"
or timid Cliinaman contributed from their scanty stores
and wardrobes, or the poorly sheltered goods of the moun-
tain trader opened their canvas walls to the keen arguments
of their flinty knives, and wants real or fancied w^ere at once
supplied.

"What then was there lacking, to make the Yosemites a
happy people, removed as they were from the bad influences
of whiskey and the white man^s injustice? Only this: " the
whites would not let them alone." So Ten-ie-ya had said,
as if aggrieved. Like all his race, and perhaps like all ig-
norant, passionate and willful persons, he appeared uncon-
scious of his own wrong-doing, and of the inevitable fate
that he was bringing upon himself and his people.

In his talk with Major Savage, he had spoken of the
verdure clothing the valley, as sufticient for his wants, but
at the time, knowing that acorns formed the staple of their
food, and that clover, grass, sorrel and the inner bark of
trees were used to guard against biliousness and eruptive
diseases, little heed was given to his declaration. Now,
however, that we saw the valley clothed with exquisite and
useful verdure, for June was now at hand, Ten-ie-ya's re-
marks had a greater significance, and we could understand
how large flocks and herds had been stolen, and fattened to
supply their wants. The late claimants to this lovely lo-
cality, " this great moral show," have been relieved of their
charge by act of Congress, and fifty thousand dollars given
them for their claims. It will probably now remain for-
ever free to visitors. The builders of the toll roads and
trails should also receive fair compensation for their pioneer
labors in building them, that they may also be free to all.

AND INDIAN WALL OF 1851. 221

When this is done, this !N"ational Park will be esteemed en-
tirely worthy of this great republic and of the great golden
State that has accepted its guardianship.*

Perhaps no one can better than myself realize the value
of the labors performed by the early pioneers, that has made
it possible for tourists to visit in comfort some of the most
prominent objects of interest; but ** a National Park "
should be entirely free. In suggesting a new name for
the fall of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, or the absurd " Illiluette," I
wish to honor Mr. Muir for his intelligent explorations
and discoveries, and at the same time feel that the word
glacier is the most appropriate. Of this, however, the resi-
dents of the valley will judge.

The names of the different objects and localities of espe-
cial interest have now become well established by use. It
is not a matter of so much surprise that there is such a dif-
ference in the orthography of the names. I only wonder
that they have been retained in a condition to be recognized.
It is not altogether the fault of the interpreters that dis-
crepancies exist in interpretation or pronunciation, although
both are often undesignedly warped to conform to the ideal
ity of the interpreter. Many of the names have been mod-
ernized and adorned with transparencies in order to illumi-
nate the subject of which the parties were writing. Those
who once inhabited this region, and lave distinctive appel-
lations, have all disappeared. The names given by them
can be but indifferently preserved or counterfeited by their
camp followers, the " Californi-i Diggers; " but June is now
with us, and we must hasten on to our work of followint/
up the trail.

* All trails within the original grant have now been made free.

222 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

CHAPTER XIY.

A Mountain 'Storm — Delay of Supplies — Clams and Ipecac — Arrival of
Train— A Cute Indian— Indian Sagacity— A Dangerous Weapon-
Capture of Indian Village— An Eloquent Chief— "Woman's Rights
versus Squaw's Wrongs — A Disturbed Family — A Magnificent Sun-
rise— On a Slippery Slope — Sentiment and Poetry — Arrival at the
Fresno.

A MOUNTAIN storm raged with such violence as to stam-
pede the mules of the pack-train while the escort were en-
camped on the South Fork. The mules were not overtaken
until they reached the foot-hills of the Fresno. In the mean-
time, while impatiently awaiting their return, our rations
gave out. In order to somewhat appease our hunger, Dr.
Black distributed his hospital stores among us. There were
some canned fruits and meats, and several cans of oysters
and clams. The southerners of the command waived
their rights to the clams, but cast lots for the oysters.
Thinking we had a prize in the clams, we brought to bear
our early recollections of Eastern life, and compounded a
most excellent and, what we supposed would be, a most
nourishing soup. Our enjoyment, however, of this highly
prized New England dish was of short duration; for from
some cause, never satisfactorily explained by Dr. Black, or
other eminent counsel^ our Eastern mess, as if moved by
one impulse of re-gurgitation, gave up their clams. For-
tunately for us our supplies arrived the next morning; for
the game procurable was not sufficient for the command.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 223

Major Savage sent Cow-chitty, a brother of Pon-watch-ee,
the chief of the Noot-choo baod, whose village we surprised
before we discovered the valley, as chief of scouts. He was
accompanied by several young warriors, selected because
they were all familiar with the Sierra Nevada trails and
the territory of the Pai-utes, where it was thought probable
the expedition would penetrate.

Captain Boling had in his report to Major Savage, com-
plained of the incapacity of Sandino as guide, and expressed
the opinion that he stood in awe of Ten-ie-ya, By letter,
the Major replied, and particularly advised Captain Boling
that implicit confidence could be placed in Cow-chitty and
his scouts, as the sub-chief was an old enemy of Ten-ie-ya,
and was esteemed for his sagacity and wood-craft, which
was superior to that of any Indian in his tribe. Captain
Boling had improved in health and strength, and concluded
to venture on his contemplated expedition over the moun-
tains. He at once ordered preparations to be made. A
camp-guard was detailed, and a special supply train fitted
out. All was ready for a start in the morning. During
the evening Captain Boling consulted our new guide as to
what trail would be best to follow to the Mono pass and over
the mountains. Cow-chitty had already learned from our
Po-ho-no scouts and those of his own tribe, the extent of our
explorations, and had had a long talk with Sandino as well
as with Ten-ie-ya. The mission Indian and the old chief
tried to make the new guide believe that the Yosemites
had gone over the mountains to the Monos. Indian-like,
he had remained very grave and taciturn, while the prepar-
ations were going on for the expedition. Now, however,
that he was consulted by Captain Boling, he was willing
enough to give his advice, and in a very emphatic manner
declared his belief to the Captain that Ten-ie-ya's people
were not far off; that they were either hiding in some of

224 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

the rocky canons in the vicinity of the valley, or in those
of the Tuolumne, and discouraged the idea of attempting
the expedition with horses. Although this did not coin-
cide with the views of our Captain, the earnestness of Cow-
chitty decided him to make another attempt in the near vi-
cinity before crossing the mountains. The horses and sup-
ply-train were accordingly left in camp, and we started at
daylight on foot, with three days' rations packed in our
blankets. We left the valley this time by way of the Py-
we-ack canon, and ascended the north cliff trail, a short
distance aboye "Mirror Lake." Soon after reaching the
summit, Indian signs were discovered near the trail we
were on. The old trail up the slope of the canon, was here
abandoned, and the fresh trail followed up to and along the
ridges just below the snow line. These signs and the ^(.r-
tuous course pursued, were similar to the tracks followed on
our trip up Indian Canon, and were as easily traced until we
reached an elevation almost entirely covered with snow from
five to ten feet deep, except on exposed tops of ridges, where
the snow had blown off to the north side or melted away.
I had accompanied our guide in advance of the command,
but observing that our course w^as a zig-zag one, some
times almost doubling on our trail, I stopped and told the
guide to halt until the Captain came up. He had been fol-
lowing the ridges without a sign of a trail being visible,
although he had sometimes pointed to small pieces of coarse
granite on the rocky divides, which he said had been dis-
placed by Ten-ie-ya's scouts. That in going out or return-
ing from their camps, they had kept on the rocky ridges,
and had avoided tracking the snow or soft ground, so as to
prevent the Americans from following them. As we stop-
ped, he called me a little out of hearing of those with me,
and by pantomime and a few words indicated his belief in
the near presence of Indians.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 225

When the Captain came up he said : " The hiding-place
of the Yosemites is not far off. If they had crossed the
mountains their scouts would not be so careful to hide their
trail. They would follow the old trail if they came to
watch you, because it is direct, and would only liide their
tracks when they were again far from the valley and near
their rancheria." This was, in part, an answer to Captain
Boling's inquiry as to why we had left the old trail, and
gone so far out of our way. I explained to him what Cow-
chitty had stated, and pointed out what the guide or scout
said was a fresh trail. The Captain looked tired and dis-
heartened, but with a grim smile said: "That maybe a
fresh Indian track, but I can't see it. If left to my own
feelings and judgment, I should say we were on another
wild-goose chase. If the guide can see tracks, and thinks
he has got 'em this time, I reckon it is better to follow on;
but if there is any short-cut tell him to give us some land-
marks to go by; for I find I am not as strong as I thought.
Let us take another look at thisyr^^A trail, and then you may
get Cow-chitty's idea as to the probable course this trail
will take further on." As we moved up the trail a little
fartlier, the expert scout pointed out more fresh signs, but
Captain Boling failed to discern a trail, and gave up the
examination, and as he seated himself for a momentary rest,
said: "I reckon it is all right, Doc. The Major says in his
letter that I can bet on Cow-chitty every time. But I can't
see any more of a trail on this rocky ridge than I can see
the trail of that wood-pecker as he flies through the air, but
I have some faith in instinct, for I reckon that is what it is
that enables him to follow a trail that he imagines should
be there. We shall have to trust him to follow it, and let
him have his own way as you would a fox-hound; if he
don't, puppy-like, take the back track, or run wild with us
over some of these ledges." Old Ten-ie-ya was now ap-

15

#

226 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

pealed to for information concerning the fresh signs, but he
only reiterated his former statement that his people had
gone over the mountains to the Monos, and the signs he said
were those of Tuolumne Indians. Captain Boling had
taken the old chief along with us on this trip, hoping to
make him of some use, if not directly as guide, indirectly;
it was thought he might betray his people's hiding-place.
But the Captain was disappointed in this, for no finished
gamester ever displayed a more immovable countenance
than did Ten-ie-ya when questioned at any time during the
expedition. A cord had again been placed around his
waist to secure his allegiance, and as we were about to
move ahead once more, he very gravely said that if we fol-
lowed the signs, they would take us over to the Tuolumne.

Before this Sand i no had professed to agree with Ten-ie-ya,
but now he carefully withheld his own opinions, and as
carefully rendered his interpretations. He feared Cow-
chitt}^ more than Ten-ie-ya; and he was frequently seen to
cross himself while muttering his prayers. Spencer and
myself re-assured the timid creature, and made him quite
happy by telling him that we would guard him against the
*' Gentiles," as he called the natives,

I explained to Cow-chitty our inability to follow the
tracks as he did over the bare granite. This flattered
him, and he then pointed out his own method of doing so,
which was simple enough with one of keen sight. It con-
sisted entirely in discovering fragments of stone and moss
that had been displaced, and broken off and scattered upon
the ground. The upper surface of the broken fragments
of stone were smooth and bleached, while the under sur-
face was dark or colored. It was impossible to walk over
these stony ridges without displacing some of the frag-
ments, and these the quick eye of Cow-chitty was sure to
discover. Cow-chitty was pleased when told of Captain

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, '227

Boling's appreciation of his sagacity, and honored by the
confidence the Captain began to show him. He expressed
his gratification by being more communicative than he had
been before. He said, ''These signs tell me that the Yo-
Semite scouts have been watching all the movements of the
Americans, and the trails that will take you to their camps.
They will not look for you on this trail. They are watch-
ing for you from the ridges nearer the valley. AVe will
not have to go far to find their camps. This trail will lead
us to the head of the Py-we-ack, where the Pai-ute or Mono
trail crosses into the upper vallej^ of the Tuolumne; and if
we don't find them at the lake, we will soon know if they
have crossed the mountains."

He then proposed that Captain Boling send out scouts to
intercept and capture the Yosemite scouts, who might be
below us watching the valley. This being interpreted to
Captain Boling, he at once adopted the suggestion of the
icout. He selected three of our best runners, and directed
Cow-chitty to select three of his. These were sent out in
pairs — an Indian and a white man. The scouts were
placed under direction of the sub-chief, who followed the
trail, and indicated to the Captain the most direct route for
the main body to follow. In health Captain Boling was
athletic and ambitious on the march. He had now, how-
ever, over-estimated his strength, and suffered considera-
bly from fatigue; but the halt afforded him a rest that very
much refreshed him. I traveled with him duriuir the re-
mainder of the march, so as to be near him as interpretor,
and took charge of Ten-ie-ya. The Captain, Ten-ie-ya, San-
dino and myself traveled together. Our march was more
leisurely than in the earlier part of the day. This allowed
Captain Boling to somewhat recover from his fatigue.

On an ascending spur that ran down to the Py-we-ack, we
found Cow-chitty quietly awaiting our approach. As we

228 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

halted, he pointed out to Captain Boling a dim circle of blue
smoke, that appeared to eddy under the lee of a large gran-
ite knob or peak, and said, " Eancheria." Old Ten-ie-ja
was standing in front of me, but exhibited no interest in
the discovery. As I lowered my line of vision to the base
of the cliif, to trace the source of the smoke, there appeared
the Indian village, resting in fancied security, upon the bor-
der of a most beautiful little lake, seemingly not more than
a half mile away. To the lake I afterwards gave the name
of Ten-ie-ya. The granite knob was so bare, smooth and
glistening, that Captain Boling at once pointed it out, and
selected it as a landmark. He designated it as a rallying
point for his men, if scattered in pursuit, and said that we
should probably camp near it for the night.

While the Captain was studying the nature of the ground
before us, and making his arrangements to capture the vil-
lage, our scouts were discovered in full chase of an Indian
picket, who was running towards the village as if his life
depended upon his efforts. In the excitement of the mo-
ment Captain Boling ordered us to double-quick and charge,
thinking, as he afterwards said, that the huts could not be
much more than half a mile away. Such a mistake could
only originate in the transparent air of the mountains. The
village was fully two miles or more away. We did, how-
ever, double-quick, and I kept a gait that soon carried Ten-
ie-ya and Sandino, with myself, ahead of our scattering col-
umn. Finding the rope with which I held Ten-ie-ya an
encumbrance in our rapid march, I wound it round his
shoulder and kept him in front of me. While passing a
steep slope of overlapping granite rock, the old chief made
a sudden spring to the right, and attempted to escape down
the ragged precipice. His age was against him, for I caught
him just as he was about to let himself drop from the pro-
jecting ledge to the ground below; his feet were already
over the brink.

AND INDIAN W AR OF 1851. 229

I felt somewhat augered at the trick of the old fellow in
attempting to relieve himself from my custody, and the
delay it had occasioned me; for we had taken the most
direct although not the smoothest course. I resumed our
advance at a gait that hurried the old sachem forward, per-
haps less cai-efully and more rapidly than comported with
the dignity of his years and rank. I was amused at the
proposition of one of the " boys " who had witnessed the
transaction, to " slioot the old devil, and not be bothered
with him any more." I of course declined this humane
proposition to relieve me of further care, and at once be-
came the chief's most devoted defender, which observing, he
afterwards told Captain Boling that I was " very good." As
we reached the more gently descending ground near the
bottom of the slope, an Indian came running up the trail
below us that led to the Eancheria. His course was at an
acute angle to the one pursued by us toward the village,
which was now but a few rods off. I ordered Sandino to
cut him off and capture him before he should reach the
camp. This was accomplished with great energy and a
good degree of pride.

The Yosemites had already discovered our approach, but
too late for any concerted resistance or for successful escape,
for Lt. Crawford at the head of a portion of the command,
dashed at once into the center of the encampment, and the
terror-stricken Indians immediately threw up their bare
hands in token'of submission, and piteously cried out '' pace!
pace!" (peace, peace). As I halted to disarm the scout
captured by Sandino, I was near enough to the camp to
hear the expressions of submission. I was compelled to
laugh at the absurd performances of Sandino, who to terrify
his prisoner, was persistently holding in his face an old
double-barreled pistol. I was aware the weapon was a
harmless one, for one hammer was gone, and the other could

230 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

not be made to explode a cap. I took the bow and arrows
from tlie frightened savage, and as Captain Boling came up 1
reported the capture, telling hira at the same time of the
surrender of the village or Kancheria to Lt. Crawford. See-
ing some of the Indians leaving the camp, and running down
the lake to a trail crossing its outlet, the Captain and the
men with him sprang forward through the grove of pines
near the crossing, and drove them back. No show of resist-
ance was offered, neither did any escape from us.

While Captain Boling was counting his prisoners and cor-
ralling them with a guard, I,bj his previous order, restrained
Ten-ie-ya from any communication with his people. The
chief of this village was a young man of perhaps thirty
years of age. When called upon by the Captain to state
how many were under his command, he answered that those
in the encampment were all that was left; the rest had scat-
tered and returned to the tribes they sprung from. Ten-
ie-ya seemed very anxious to answer the interrogations
made to the young chief, but Captain Boling would not
allow his farther interference, and jokingly told me to send
him over among the women who were grouped a little aside,
as he was now about as li armless. I acted upon the sug-
gestion, and upon his being told that he had the liberty of
the camp if he made no further attempts to escape, the old
fellow stepped off briskly to meet his four squaws, who
were with this band, and who seemed as pleased as himself
at their re-union.

Captain Boling felt satisfied that the answer given by tliis
half-starved chief, and the few braves of his wretched look-
ing band, were as truthful as their condition would corrob-
orate. Finding themselves so completely surprised, not-
withstanding their extreme vigilance, and comparing the
well kept appearance of their old chief with their own worn
out, dilapidated condition, they with apparent anxiety ex-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 231

pressed a willingness for the future to live in peace with the
Americans. All hopes of avoiding a treaty, or of prevent-
ing their removal to the Reservation, appeared to have at
once been abandoned; for when the young chief was asked
if he and his band were willing to go to the Fresno, he re-
plied with much emotion of gesture, and as rendered by
Sandino to Spencer and myself: " Not only willing, but
anxious; " for, said he: "Where can we now go that the
Americans will not follow us? " As he said this, he stretched
his arms out toward the East, and added: " Where can we
make oar homes, that you will not find us?" He then went
on and stated that they had fled to the mountains without
food or clothing; that they were worn out from watcliing
our scouts, and building signal-fires to tire us out also.

They had been anxious to embroil us in trouble by draw-
ing us into the canons of the Tuolumne, where were some
Pai-utes wintering in a valley like Ah-wah-ne. They had
hoped to be secure in this retreat until the snow melted, so
that they could go to the Mono tribe and make a home with
them, but that now he was told the Americans would follow
them even there, he was willing, with all his little band, to
go to the plains with us." After the young chief had been
allowed full liberty of speech, and had sat down, Ten-ie-ya
again came forward, and would have doubtless made a con-
fession of faith., but his speech was cut short by an order
from Captain Boling to at once move camp to a beautiful
pine grove on the north side of the outlet to the lake, which
lie had selected for our camping-place for the night. By
this order he was able to have everything in readiness for an
early start the next morning. There was an abundance of
dry pine, convenient for our camp fires, and as the night was
exceedingly cold, the glowing fires were a necessity to our
comfort. The Indians were told to pack such movables as
they desired to take with them, and move down at once to
our camp-ground. ^

232 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

The scene was a busy one. The squaws and children ex-
hibited their delight in the prospect of a change to a more
genial locality, and where food wonld be plenty. While
watching the preparations of the squaws for the transfer of
their household treasures and scanty stores, my attention
was directed to a dark object that appeared to be crawling up
the base of the first granite peak above their camp. The pol-
ished surface of the gleaming rock made the object appear
larger than the reality. We were unable to determine what
kind of an animal it could be; but one of our scouts, to
wliom the name of " Big Drunk " had been given, pro-
nounced it a papoose, although some had variously called it
a bear, a fisher or a coon. " Big Drunk " started after it,
and soon returned with a bright, active boy, entirely naked,
which he coaxed from his slippery perch. Finding himself
an object of curiosity his fright subsided, and he drew
from its hiding-place, in the bushes near by, a garment that
somewhat in shape, at least, resembled a man's shirt. " The
Glisteiiing Rocks " had rendered us all oblivious to the color,
and that was left undetermined. This garment swept the
ground after he had clothed himself with it. His ludicrous
appearance excited our laughter, and as if pleased with the
attentions paid to him, the little fellow joined heartily in
the merriment he occasioned. It will not be out of place
to here relate the sequel of this boy's history. Learning
that he was an orphan and without relatives. Captain Bo-
ling adopted him, calling him " Reube," in honor of Lt.
Reuben Chandler, who after Captain Boling was the most
popular man in the battalion.

Some three or four years afterward, the boy, as if to il-
lustrate the folly of the Captain in trying to civilize and
educate him, ran away from his patron, taking with him
two valuable, thorough-bred Tennessee horses, much prized
by the Captain; besides money, clothing and arms belong-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 233

iDg to the Captain's brother-in-law, Col. Lane, of Stockton,
in whose charge Captain Boling had placed him, that he
might liave the advantages of a good school. After collect-
ing togetlier all the Indians found in this encampment; the
total number was found to be but thirty -five, nearly all of
whom were in some way a part of the family of the old
patriarch, Ten-ie-ya. These were escorted to our camp, the
men placed under guard, but the women and children were
left free.

This was accomplished before sun down, and being re-
lieved of duty, a few of us ran across the outlet of the lake,
and climbing the divide on the south side of the lake, be-
held a sunset view that will long be remembered. It was
dark when we reached camp, and after a scanty repast, we
spread our blankets, and soon were wrapped in slumber
sweet.

We were awakened by the cold, which became more un-
comfortable as night advanced, and finding it impossible to
again compose ourselves to sleep. Captain Boling aroused
the camp, and preparations were made by the light of the
blazing camp-fires for an early start for the valley. Desir-
ing some clean, fresh water, I went to the lake as the neai-est
point to obtain it, when, to my surprise, I found that the
new ice formed during the night and connecting the old ice
with the shore of the lake, was strong enough to bear me
up. At a point where the old ice had drifted near, I went
out some distance upon it, and it appeared strong enough
to have borne up a horse. This was about the 5tli of June.
1851. The change of temperature from summer in the val-
ley to winter on the mountains, without shelter, was felt by
us all. After a hast}^ breakfast, the word was ])assed to as-
semble, and we were soon all ready for the order to march.
All at once there was turmoil and strife in camp, and what
sounded to my ears very much like a Chinese c :icert. Cap-

234 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

tain Boling was always a man of gallantry, and in this in-
stance would not allow the sqnaws to take the burden of the
baggage. Hence the confusion and delay. He ordered the
Indians to carry the packs — burdens they had imposed on
their women. This order brought down upon him the vi-
tuperations of the squaws and sullen murmurs from the
" noble red men ;" as often happens in domestic interference,
the family was offended. Ten-ie-ya rose to explain, and
waxed eloquent in his protest against this innovation on
their ancient customs.

As soon as the Captain was made aware of the old fel-
low's object in having " a talk," he cut short the debate by
ordering one of the lieutenants to see that every Indian, as
well as squaw, was properly loaded with a just proportion
of their burdens. The real object of the Captain was to fa-
cilitate the return to the valley, by making it easy for the
squaws and children to accompany us through without de-
lays. One amusing feature in this arrangement was, that
long after the men had been silenced, their squaws continued
to murmur at the indignity practiced on their disgraced
lords. I have my doubts, even to this day, whether the
standard of women's rights was ever again ivaved among
the mountain tribes after this " special order" was issued by
our good -hearted Captain.

In order to take the most direct route to the valley. Cap-
tain Boling selected one of the young Yosemite Indians to
lead the way with our regular guide. Being relieved of the
charge of Ten-ie-ya, I took my usual place on the march
with the guide. This position was preferred by me, because
it afforded ample opportunity for observation and time for
reflection; and beside, it was in my nature to be in advance.
The trail followed, after leaving the lake, led us over bare
granite slopes and hidden paths, but the distance was mate-
rially shortened. A short distance below the bottom land

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 235

of the lake, on the north side of the canon and at the head
of the gorge, the smooth, sloping granite projects like a vast
roof over the abyss below. As we approached this, our
young guide pointed toward it.

By close observation I was able to discover that the trail
led up its sloping surface, and was assured by the guide
that the trail was a good one. I felt doubtful of the Cap-
tain's willingness to scale that rocky slope, and halted for
hinj to come up. The Captain followed the trail to its ter-
mination in the soil, and saw the cause of my having halted.
Upon the discoloration of the rock being pointed out as the
continuation of the trail, he glanced up the granite slope
and said, " Go on, but be watchful, for a slide into the
gorge would bring as certain death as a slide from that San
Joaquin trail, which I have not yet forgotten." Some of
the command did not fancy this any more than they did the
Ten-ie-ya trail down "Indian Caiion." We all pulled oif
our boots and went up this slope bare-footed. Seeing there
was no real danger, the most timid soon moved up as fear-
less as the others. I, with the advance, soon reached the
soil above, and at the top halted until the Indians and our
straggling column closed up. As I looked about me, I dis-
covered, unfolding to my sight, one of the most charming
views in this sublimest scenery of nature. During the day
before, we had looked with astonishment on the almost
boundless peaks, and snow-capped mountains, to be seen
from the Mt. Hoffman divide. But here some of the same
views appeared illuminated. In our ascent up the moun-
tain, we had apparently met the rising sun. The scene was
one long to be remembered for its brilliancy, although not
describable.

Mr. Addison, in the Spectator^ says: "Our imagination
loves to be filled with an object, or to grasp at anything
that is too big for its capacity. We are flung into a pleasing

236 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

astonishment at such unbounded views, and feel a delightful
stillness and amazement in the soul." Mr. Addison has here
expressed the feelings entertained by some of us, as the view
met our gaze while looking out to the east, the south and
the west. Although not sufficiently elevated to command
a general outlook, the higher ridges framing some of the
scenery to the north and eastward of us, the westerly view
was boundless. The transparency of the atmosphere was
here extreme, and as the sun illumined the snow-clad and
ice-burnished peaks, the scene aroused the enthusiasm of the
command to a shout of glad surprise.

The recollections of the discomforts of the night were
banished by the glory of the morning as here displayed.
Even the beauties of the Yosemite, of which I was so ardent
an admirer, were for the moment eclipsed by this gorgeously
grand and changing scene. The aurora that had preceded
the rising sun was as many-hued, and if possible more glo-
rious, than the most vivid borealis of the northern climes.
But when the sun appeared, seemingly like a sudden flash,
amidst the distant peaks, the climax was complete. My
opportunities for examining the mountain scenery of the
Sierra ^Nevada above the immediate vicinity of the Yosem-
ite,'were such as to only enable me to give a somewhat gen-
eral description, but the views that I had during our explor-
ations afforded me glimpses of the possibilities of sublime
mountain scenery, such as I had never before comprehended,
although familiar with the views afforded from some of the
peaks of Mexico and of the Eocky Mountains. I doubt
even if the Yellow Stone, supreme in some of its attractions,
affords such varied and majestic beauty.

Looking back to the lovely little lake, where we had been
encamped during the night, and watching Ten-ie-ya as he
ascended to our group, I suggested to the Captain that we
name the lake after the old chief, and call it " Lake Ten-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 237

ie-ya." The Captain had fully recovered from his annoy-
ance at the scene in camp, and readily consented to the
name, but added that I had evidently mistaken my vo-
cation.

]S"oticing ray look of surprise, he jokingly said that if I
had only studied divinity instead of medicine, I could have
then fully gratified my passion for christening. This, of
course, brought out a general guifaw, and thinking me an-
noyed, he said: "Gentlemen, I think the name an appro-
priate one, and sliall use it in my report of the expedition.
Beside this, it is rendering a kind of justice to perpetuate
the name of the old chief."

When Ten-ie-ya reached the summit, he left his people
and approached where the Captain and a few of us were
halting. Although he had been snubbed by the Captain
that morning, he now seemed to have forgotten it, and his
rather rugged countenance glowed witli healthful exercise
in the sunlight. I had handled him rather roughly the day
before, but as he now evidently wished to be friendly, I
called him up to us, and told him that we had given his
name to the lake and river. At first, he seemed unable to
comprehend our purpose, and pointing to the group of
Glistening peaks, near the head of the lake, said: "It al-
ready has a name; we call it Py-we-ack." Upon my telling
him that we had named it Ten-ie-ya, because it was upon
the shores of the lake that we had found his people, who
would never return to it to live, his countenance fell and he
at once left our group and joined his own family circle.
His countenance as he left us indicated that he thought the
naming of the lake no equivalent for the loss of his ter-
ritory.

I never at any time had real personal dislike for the old
sachem. He had always been an object of study, and I
sometimes found in him profitable entertainment. As he

238 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

moved off to hide his sorrow, I pitied him. As we resumed
our march over the rough and billowy trail, I was more
fully impressed with the appropriateness of the name for the
beautiful lake. Here, probably, his people had built their
last wigwams in their mountain home. From this lake we
were leading the last remnant of his once dreaded tribe, to
a territory from which it was designed they should never
return as a people. My sympathies, confirmed in my own
mind, a justness in thus perpetuating the name of Ten-ie-
ya. The Indian name for this lake, branch and canon,
"Py-we-ack" is, although a most appropriate one, now
displaced by that of the old chief Ten-ie-ya. Of the signifi-
cation of the name Ten-ie-ya, I am uncertain ; but as pro-
nounced by himself, I have no doubt of its being pure
Indian.

The whole mountain region of the water- sheds of the
Merced and Tuolumne rivers afford the most delightful
views to be seen anywhere of mountains, cliffs, cascades
and waterfalls, grand forests and mountain meadows, and
the Soda Springs are yet destined to become a favorite
summer resort. Mr. Muir has well said that the " upper
Tuolumne valley is the widest, smoothest, most serenely
spacious, and in every way the most delightful summer
pleasure park in all the High Sierras."

Now that it has become a part of the new National
Park surrounding the old grant ( see new map ), and good
trails reach it, wagon roads will soon be extended into the
very " heart of the Sierras "

We reached our camp in the valley without accident.
Captain Boling at once gave orders to make preparations
for our return to the Fresno. The next day we broke camp
and moved down to the lower end of the valley near where
we camped on the first night of fmr discovery, near the lit-
tle meadow at the foot of the Mz^riposa Trail.

AND INDIAN WAR OF mi. 239

At sunrise the next morning, or rather as the reflections
on the cliffs indicated sunrise, we commenced our ascent
of the steep traiL As I readied the height of land where
the moving column would soon perhaps forever shut out
from view the immortal " Kock Chief," my old sympa-
thies returned, and leaving the command to pursue its
heedless way, I climbed to my old perch where Savage had
warned me of danger. As I looked back upon El Capitan,
his bald forehead was cooling in the breeze that swept by
me from the ^'-Summer land^^ helow, and his cheerful
countenance reflected back the glory of the rising sun.
Feeling my own inferiority while acknowledging the majes-
ty of the scene, I looked back from Mt. Beatitude, and
quoting from Byron, exclaimed:

Yosemite !
"Thy vale(s) of evergreen, thy hills of snow
Proclaim thee Nature's varied favorite now/*

We reached the Fresno without the loss of a captive, and
as we turned them over to the agent, we were formally com-
mended for the success of the expedition.

240 DISCOVERY OF THE TOSEMITE,

CHAPTER XY.

The Flora of the Region of the Tosemite— General Description of the
Valley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights.

A MARKED and peculiar feature observed in the landscape
of the Merced River slopes, while going to the Yosemite,
especially on the Coultersville route, is the dense growth of
the chamiso and the manzanita. These shrubs are found
most abundant below the altitude of the growth of sugar-
pine, upon dry, slaty ground ; though a larger variety of
manzanita, distinguishable by its larger blossoms and fruit,
and its love of shade and moist clay-slate soil, may be found
growing even among the sugar-pine. A peculiarity of this
shrub is, that like the Madrona and some trees in Australia,
it sheds a portion of its outer bark annually, leaving its
branches beautifully bright and clean. The manzanita, when
in full bloom, is one of the most beautiful of shrubs; its
delicately tinted and fragrant blossoms filling the air with
the perfume of an apple-orchard, while its rich evergreen
leaves are only shed as others put forth. The name, man-
zanita, IS Spanish, signifying little apple — tlie fruit in flavor,
but more especially in smell, resembling the apple.

These chamiso and manzanita thickets are almost impen-
etrable to large animals, except the California lion and griz-
zly bear. At certain seasons of the year, during their trips
to and from the High Sierras, when the berries are ripe,
these coverts are the resort of such visitors. The grizzly
comes to indulge his fondness for the little apples, and the

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 241

lion (how hath the mighty fallen!) to feed upon the wood-
rats, mice and rabbits that he surprises in these furzy thick-
ets. Occasionally a deer, as he comes along unconscious
of danger, but too near the feline lair, is pounced upon by
the lion, or perhaps a straj^ horse or mule may fall a vic-
tim ; but in no case dare the lion attack his savage associate
the bear, or any of his progeny.

In going to the Yosemite by way of the Mariposa route,
after reaching the summit of the gap or pass in the "Black
Ridge" or Chow-chilla mountain, over which the Mariposa
route passes, to the South Fork of the Merced River, the
yellow pine, the sugar pine, the Douglass fir and two other
species of fir, are seen in all their glory. Here, too, is to
be found the variety of white or yellow cedar {Liho cedrus
decun'ens\ growing to a size not seen at a less altitude^
unless perhaps on the north side of some spur from these
mountains. If the ridge be followed to the right as far as
the Big Trees, instead of descending the road to the South
Fork, some very large pine, cedar and fir trees will be seen,
in addition to the great attraction, the Sequoia.

At the time I first passed over this route there was but
a dim Indian trail; now, a very good stage or wagon-road
occupies it. As the descent to the South Fork is com-
menced, dogwood will be observed growing at the head of
a little mountain brook that has its source in the pass, to-
gether with willows and other small growths of trees and
shrubs. The " bush-honeysuckle," when in bloom, is here
especially beautiful; and several fragrant-blossomed shrubs
will attract attention — the kalmia, especially. The forest
on this route is equaled by few in California, and it extends
to the Yosemite almost uninterrupted, except by the river
and a few mountain meadows. The Coultersville route also
affords like views of uninterrupted forest, even to the verge
of the valley, but confined as the trail was when it was first
16

2i2 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

made to the narrow divide, one could not so well appreciate
the beauty of the trees while looking down upon their tops
as he would while riding among them. A few sequoias can
be seen on this route, near Hazel Green and near Crane
Flat.

Mr. Greeley says : " The Sierra !N"evadas lack the glorious
glaciers, the frequent rains, the rich verdure, the abundant
cataracts of the Alps, but they far surpass them; they sur-
pass any other mouii ains I ev^er saw, in wealth and grace
of trees. Look down from almost any of their peaks, and
your range of vision is filled, bounded, satisfied, by what
might be termed a tempest-tossed sea of evergreens, filling
every upland valley, covering every hillside, crowning every
peak but the highest with their unfading luxuriance.

"That I saw, during this day's travel, many hundreds of
pines eight feet in diameter, with cedars at least six feet, I
am confident; and there were miles of such and smaller
trees of like genus, standing as thick as they could grow.
Steep mountain sides, allowing these giants, to grow rank
above rank, without obstructing each other's sunshine, seem
pecul iarly favorable to the production of these serviceable
giants. But the summit meadows are peculiar in their heavy
fringe of balsam fir of all sizes, from those barely one foot
high to those hardly less than two hundred; their branches
surrounding them in collars, their extremities gracefully
bent down by weight of winter snows, making them here, I
am confident, the most beautiful trees on earth. The dry
promontories which separate these meadows are also cov-
ered with a species of spruce, which is only less graceful
than the firs aforesaid. I never before enjoyed such a tree-
feast as on this wearying, difficult ride."

Had Mr. Greeley taken more time, it would not have been
so wearying to himself or mule. He rode sixty miles, on
one mule the day he went to the Yosemite, but his observa-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 2i3

tions of what he saw are none the less just and valuable,
though but few of tlie pine trees will measure eight feet in
diameter. It is true, probably, that few forests in the Uni-
ted States are so dense and beautiful in variety as those seen
on the old Mariposa route to the Yosemite by way of the
meadows of tlie Pohono Summit. About these meadows
the firs especially attract attention, from the uniform or geo-
metrical regularity their branches assume. No landscape
gardener could produce such effects as are here freely pre-
sented by the Great Architect of the universe for the admi-
ration of his wayward children. Here in this region will
also be found the California tamarack pine, and a variety
of pine somewhat resembling the Norway pine, called Pi-
nus Jeffreyi. There is still another pine, to be found only on
the highest ridges and mountains, that may be said to mark
the limit of arbol vegetation; this dwarf is known sls pinus
alhicaulis^ and could it but adapt itself to a lower altitude,
and retain its dense and tangled appearance, it would make
good hedge-rows.

Professor Whitney speaks of still another one of the pine
family, growing about the head of King's and Kern Pi vers,
which he calls jpinus aristata, and says it only grows on
those highest peaks of the Sierras, although it is also found
in the Rocky Mountains. Of the more noticeable under-
growth of these mountain forests and their borders, besides
grasses, sedges, ferns, mosses, lichens, and various plants
that require a better knowledge of botany than I possess to
describe properly, may be mentioned the California lilac
and dogwood, the latter of which is frequently seen growing
along the mountain streams, and in the Yosemite. It grows
in conjunction with alder, willow, poplar, or balm of Gilead,
and a species of buckthorn. In isolated patches the Indian
arrow-wood is found. This wood is almost without pith,
and warps but little in drying. For these qualities and the

244 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

uniformity of its growth, it was especially esteemed for ar-
row-shafts; although sprouts from other shrubs and trees
were also used.

It will have been observed, while going to the Yosemite,
that the chimaso, white-oak and digger-pine are upon the
soutliern slopes, while the thickets of mountain -ash, shrub
or Oregon maple, and shrub live-oak, chinquepin and trail-
ing blue and white ceanothus and snow plant are found upon
the north side of the ridges, except when found at a greater
altitude than is usual for their growth. On descending into
the Yosemite, the visitor will at once notice and welcome
the variety of foliage.

Upon the highest lands grow pine, fir, cedar, spruce, oak
and shrubs. In the meadows and upon open ground, ac-
cording to the richness of the soil and moisture, will be
seen flowers and flowering shrubs of great brilliancy and
variety.

The whole valley had the appearance of park-like grounds,
with trees, shrubbery, flowers and lawns. The larger trees,
pines, firs, etc., are of smaller growth than are usually found
on the mountain slopes and tables. Still, some are of fair
dimensions, rising probably to the height of one hundred
and fifty feet or more. One large pine, growing in an alcove
upon the wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, — apparently without
soil — is quite remarkable. The balm of gilead, alder, dog-
♦vood, willow and buck- thorn, lend an agreeable variety to
the scenery along the river. Their familiar appearance
seem, like old friends, to welcome the eastern visitor to this
strange and remarkable locality. The black-oak is quite
abundant in the valley and upon the slopes below. It was
the source of supply of acorns used by the Yosemites as
food, and as an article of traffic with their less favored
neighbors east of the Sierras.

Along the river banks and bordering the meadows are

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 245

found the wild rose, and where the soil is rich, dry and mel-
low, the wild sunflower grows luxuriantly. Of wild fruits,
the red raspberry and strawberry are the only ones worthy
of mention, and these are only found in limited quantities.
A thornless red raspberry grows upon the mountains, but its
blossoms are apt to be nipped by frosts and the plant is not
a prolific bearer.

The meadows of the valley are generally moist, and in the
springtime boggy. Later in the season they become firmer,
and some parts of them where not in possession of sedges,
afford an abundant growth of " wild Timothy;" blue joint,
Canada red-top and clover. In addition to these nutritious
meadow-grasses, there is growing on the coarse granite,
sandy land, a hard, tough wire bunch grass unfit for graz-
ing except when quite young. This grass is highly prized
by the Indians for making baskets and small mats. Its
black seeds were pulverized and used as food, by being con-
verted into mush, or sometimes it was mixed with acorn
meal and was then made into a kind of gruel. The com-
mon "brake" and many beautiful species of rock ferns and
mosses are quite abundant in the shady parts of the valley,
and in the canons, and more especially are they found grow-
ing within the influence of the cool, moist air near the falls.
Growing in the warm sunlight below El Capitan, may be
seen plants common among the foot hills and slaty moun-
tains. Of these plants, the manzanita, the bahia conferti-
flora and the California poppy are the most conspicuous.

The climatic and geologic or local influences upon vegeta-
tion in this part of California, is so remarkable as to con-
tinually claim the notice of the tourist, and induce the
study of the botanist. So peculiar are the influences of ele-
vation, moisture, temperature and soil, that if these be
stated, the flora may be determined with almost unerring
certainty, and vice vei^sa^ if the flora be designated, the

246 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

rock's exposure and mineral character of the soil will be at
once inferred. The extreme summer temperature of the
valley rises but little over 80° Fahrenlieit, during the day,
while the nights are always cold enough to make sleeping
comfortable under a pair of blankets.

Thus far in narrating the incidents connected with the
discovery of the Yosemite, I have not been particularly defin-
ite in my descriptions of it. Unconsciously 1 have allowed
myself to assume the position, that this remarkable locality
was familiarly known to every one.

From the discovery of the valley to the present day, the
wonders of this region of sublimity, have been a source of
inspiration to visitors, but none have been able to describe
it to the satisfaction of those who followed after them. The
efforts that are still made to do so, are conclusive evidences
that to the minds of visitors, their predecessors had failed
to satisfactorily describe it to their comprehensions; and so
it will probably continue, as long as time shall last, for
where genius even, would be incompetent, egotism may
still tread unharmed.

Realizing this, and feeling my own utter inability to con-
vey to another mind any just conception of the impressions
received upon first beholding the valley, I yet feel that a
few details and figures should be given with this volume.
Prof. J. D. Whitney in his " Yosemite Guide Book " says,
in speaking of the history of the discovery and settlement of
the Yosemite Yalley : " The visit of the soldiers under Cap-
tain Boling led to no immediate results in this direction.
Some stories told by them on their return, found their way
into the newspapers; but it was not until four years later
that so far as can be ascertained, any persons visited the
valley for the purpose of examining its wonders, or as regu-
lar pleasure travelers. It is, indeed, surprising that so-
remarkable a locality should not sooner have become known;

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 247

one would suppose that accounts of its cliffs and waterfalls
would have spread at once all over the country. Probably
they did circulate about California, and were not believed
but set down as" travelers' stories." Yet these first visitors
seem to have been very moderate in their statements, for
they spoke of the Yosemite Fallas being "more than a
thousand feet high," thus cutting it down to less than half
its real altitude."

At the time of our discovery, and after the subsequent
lengthy visit under Captain Boling, our descriptions of it
were received with doubt by the newspaper world, and with
comparative indifference by the excited and overwrought
public of the golden era. The press usually more than
keeps pace with public opinion. Although height and depth
were invariably under-estimated by us, our statements were
considered " too steep" even for the sensational correspond-
ents, and were by them pronounced exaggerations. These
autocrats of public opinion took the liberty to dwarf our
estimates to dimensions more readily swallowed by their
patrons.

I have made many visits to the Yosemite since "our"
long sojourn in it in 1851, and have since that time furnished
many items for the press descriptive of that vicinity. My
recollections of some of these will be given in another chap-
ter. Although many years have rolled off the calendar of
time since the occurrences related in these chapters, no ma-
terial change has affected that locality. Human agency can
not alter the general appearance of these stupendous cliffs
and waterfalls.

The picturesque wildness of the valley has since our first
visits been to a certain degree toned down by the improve
ments of civilization. The regions among the foot-hills and
mountains that serve as approaches to the valley, where we
hunted for savages to make peace with our National Gov-

248 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

emment, now boasts of its ranchos and other improvements.
The obscure trails which we followed in our explorations,
and on which we first entered, have long since been aban -
doned, or merged into roads or other trails used by the pro-
prietors of the territory in the vicinity. The white man's
civilized improvements have superseded them. Instead of
the stormy bivouacs of our first visits, or the canvas of oui
longer stay, the visitor now has the accommodations of first-
class hotels with modern improvements. The march of civ-
ilization has laid low many of the lofty pines and shady
oak trees that once softened the rough grandeur and wildnes;^
of the scenery. Stumps, bridges and ladders now mark
the progress of improvements. These, however, only affect
the ornamental appendages of the scenery — the perishable
portion of it alone. The massive granite walls are invul-
nerable to modern ingenuity of adornment. The trail over
which we approached the valley on our first visit was below
the more modern trails, and its general course has now been
appropriated by the stage road over which the tourist visits
the Yosemite. The rocky slabs and stretches down which
we then slid and scrambled, have since been graded and im-
proved, so that the descent is made without difficulty.

The " Mariposa Trail " first approached the vQrgQ of the
cliffs forming the south side of the valley, near what is
known as " Mount Beatitude," or, as the first full view above
has been designated, "Inspiration Point"; which is about
3,000 feet above the level of the valley. In a direct line
from the commencement of the first descent, to where the
trail reaches the valley, the distance is probably less than a
mile, but by the trail, it is nearly four miles in a circuitous
zigzag westerly course. The vertical descent of the trail
in that distance is 2,973 feet.*

I have adopted the statistics of measurements gi^en by
Prof. Whitney in his " Yosemite Guide Book" as my stand-

* A wagon road now enters upon a lower level.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1801. 249

ard, so as to be modernlj correct. These statistics were
from the State Geological Survey, and are scientifically re-
liable. From a point on this descending trail, my most im-
pressive recollections of a general view were first obtained.
My first sight of the Yosemite was suddenly and unexpect-
edly unfolded from its junction with the old Indian trail;
the view was made complete by ascending to a granite
table. The first object and the principal point of attrac-
tion to my astonished gaze was " El Capitan," although its
immensity was far from comprehended, until I became
familiar with the proportions of other prominent features
of the valley. After passing it close to its base, on the
next day, I made up my mind that it could not be less than
1,500 or 2,000 feet above the level of the valley.

Prof. Whitney in speaking of this object of grandeur and
massiveness, says: " El Capitan is an immense block of
granite, projecting squarely out into the valley, and present-
ing an almost vertical sharp edge, 3,300 feet in elevation.
The sides or walls of the mass are bare, smooth, and entirely
destitute of vegetation. It is almost impossible for the
observer to comprehend the enormous dimensions of this
rock, which in clear weather can be distinctly seen from the
San Joaquin plains at a distance of fifty or sixty miles.
Nothing, however, so helps to a realization of the magnitude
of these masses about the Yosemite as climbing around and
among them. Let the visitor begin to ascend the pile of
debris which lies at the base of El Capitan, and he will
soon find his ideas enlarged on the point in question. And
yet these debris piles along the cliff's, and especially under
El Capitan, are of insignificant size compared with tlie
dimensions of the solid wall itself. They are hardly notice-
able in taking a general view of the valley. El Capitan
imposes on us by its stupendous bulk, which seems as if
hewed from the mountain on purpose to stand as the type
of eternal massiveness.

250 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

" It is doubtful it any where in the world there is pre-
sented so squarely cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of
rock." The foregoing is the most concise and best descrip-
tion of El Capitan I have ever seen, and yet, it cannot im-
part the ecstacy of reverence for the sublime one feels in its
presence.

Another peculiarity of El Capitan, is one that belongs to
headlands that are designated points-no-point; that is the
apparent difficulty of passing them. While passing at a
distance, the convexity of the wall seems to remain imme-
diately opposite the observer.

From the Mariposa trail as it descends, can be seen most
of the prominent cliffs which form its massive side walls.
This trail reaches the bottom of the valley near its lower
extremity. Below this trail, it narrows to a rocky canon,
almost impassable except for the Merced river, which leaves
the valley through this gorge. I shall again refer to this
canon in another chapter.

The valley is about six miles long and from half a mile
to over a mile in width at the head of the valley proper.
It is irregular in shape, but its general direction is nearly
east towards its upper end. Its outlines will be better un-
derstood from a view of the accompanying map, which has
been mostly copied from that of the State Geological Sur-
vey— Prof. Whitney's. The three canons which open into
the valley at its upper end, are so intimately connected with
it that a general description will include them all, particu-
larly the parts of them in close proximity to the valley.
They will be specially described when reached.

The sides of the valley are walls of a grayish-white granite,
which becomes a dazzling white in a clear sunlight. This
intensity of reflection is, however, toned to a great extent
by the varying haze which permeates the upper atmosphere
of the valley for most of the time. This haze has some-

AND INDIAN iVAR OF 1851 251

times the appearance of a light cloud of blue smoke, with
its borders fringed with a silvery vapor. At other times —
during August and September — the tint is enriched, and at
sunrise and sunset for the valley the golden light seems to
permeate the haze, and lend its charm to the gossamer
film that shields the sight from the glare of the reflecting
granite.

The walls on each side are in many places perpendicular,
and are, from the level of the valley to the top of the cliffs,
from 2,660 to 4,737 feet in height, or, as they are generally
described, from half a mile to a mile in height. Prof.
Whitney, however, says: ''The valley is sunk almost a mile
in perpendicular depth below the general level of the adja-
cent region." This is undoubtedly correct, for in his descrip-
tion, he says: "The Yosemite Yalley is nearly in the center
of the State, north and south, and just midway between the
east and west bases of the Sierras; here a little over seventy
miles wide."

Prof. Whitney's estimate of the depth of the valley must
be literally correct, for the general slope of that region is
toward the valley, except from the west, its lower end.

At the base of these cliffs is a comparatively small amount
of debris, consisting of broken rocks which have fallen from
above. A kind of soil has accumulated on this talus, which
is generally covered with vegetation. Trees of considerable
size — oaks, pines, firs, cedars, maples, bay and dwarf oak,
and lesser shrubs, are frequent. Although this dehi'is is
scarcely observed in a general view, its height above the bot-
tom of the valley is in many places from three hundred to
five hundred feet n,ext to the cliff, from which it slopes some
distance into the valley. In a few places the bases of the
cliffs appear as if exposed nearly to the level of the valley.
The valley proper is generally level through its entire length.
The actual slope given is "only thirty-five feet between the

252 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

junctions of the Ten-ie-ya Fork and the Bridal Yeil Creek
with the main river, four miles and a half in a straight
line." The elevation of the valley above the sea level is
3,950 feet. The Merced Eiver, which is about seventy feet
wide in an ordinary stage of water, courses down through
the middle canon, meanders through the valley, being re-
strained or confined to near the centre of it by the sloping
talus at its sides — the sloping debris piles occupying nearly
one-half of the bottom of the valley.

Although the soil is principally of a sandy character, the
marshy land subject to overflow, and some of the dry bot-
tom land, have a deep, rich alluvial soil.

The two beautiful little meadows in the lower section of
the valley, afford forage for animals. On the slope above,
not far from the Pohono Falls, the Yosemities built their
huts, as if unconscious of "The Spirit of the Evil Wind,"
near their habitations.

Not far from the foot of the descent of the Mariposa trail, the
original trail branched; one trail continuing on up the south
side of the valley, the other crossing the Merced toward El
Capitan. Another original trail came up on the north side
trom the gorge below. A small foot- trail entered this from
the northern summit of the Coultersville trail, but it was
purposely left so obscure by the Indians, as to lead to the
belief that it was impassable for horses. This trail was
modernized, and is now known as the "Coultersville Trail."
On angle of El Capitan is '' Ribbon Falls." The cliff over
which the water pours is nearly 3,000 feet high, but the
perpendicular height of the fall is but little over a thousand
feet. This fall is " a beauty " while it lasts, but it is as
ephemeral as a spring shower, and this fact must have been
known to the sponsors at the baptism.

Just above El Capitan are the Three Brothers, the high-
est peak of these rocks is 3,830 feet.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 253

Next above these is the Yosemite Fall. The verge of the
cliff over which this fall begins its descent is 2,600 feet
above the level of the valley. Prof. Whitney in describing
this fall, says: "The fall is not in one perpendicular sheet.
There is first a vertical descent of 1,500 feet, when the water
strikes on what seems to be a projecting ledge; but which,
in reality, is a shelf or recess, almost a third of a mile back
from the front of the lower portion of the cliff. From here
the water finds its way, in a series of cascades, down a de-
scent equal to 626 feet perpendicular, and then gives one
final plunge of about 400 feet on to a low takis of rocks at
the base of the precipice." He also "estimates the size of
tlie stream at the summit of the fall, at a medium stage of
water, to be twenty feet in width and two feet in average
depth." The upper portion of the full spread of its base is
estimated to be a width of from one hundred to three hun-
dred feet at high water. The wind gives this fall a vibra-
tory motion; sometimes equal to the width of the column
of water itself at the base of the perpendicular descent.

The ravine called Indian Canon is less than a mile above
the Yosemite Fall; between the two, is the rocky peak
called the " Lost Arrow," which, although not perpendicular,
runs up boldly to a height of 3,030 feet above the level of the
Merced.

The Indian name for the ravine called Indian Canon was
Lehamite, and the cliff extending into the valley from the
East side of the Caiion is known as the " Arrow-wood Rocks."
This grand wall extends almost at a right angle towards the
East, and continues up the Ten-ie-ya Caiion, forming the
base of the North dome (To-co-ya) which rises to an eleva-
tion of 3,568 feet above the valley.

In the cliff which forms the base of this dome-shaped
mass of rocks, are the " Eoyal Arches," an immense arched
cavity evidently formed by portions of the cliff becoming

254 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

detached from some cause, and falling out in sections to the
depth of seven tj-five or one hundred feet from the face of
the cliff. The top of the arch appears to be 1,200 feet or
more above the valley. The extreme width of the cavity is
about the same, or perhaps a little more than the height.
Adjoining the "Koyal Arches" on the East, is what is
called the " Washington Column." This projecting rounded
mass of rock, may be said to mark the boundary of the val-
vey proper and the Ten-ie-ya Canon, which here opens into
the valley from a Northeasterly direction.

On the opposite side of Ten-ie-ya Canon is the Half Dome
(Tis-sa-ack) the loftiest peak of the granite cliffs that form a
part of the walls of the Yosemite Yalle}^ Its height above
the valley is 4,737 feet. On the side next to Ten-ie-ya
Canon this cliff is perpendicular for more than 1,500 feet
from its summit, and then, the solid granite slopes at about
an angle of 60 degrees to its base. The top of this mass
of rock has the appearance of having been at one time a
dome-shaped peak, now however, but half remains, that por-
tion split off has by some agency, been carried awa}^ At
its Northerly base is Mirror Lake, and farther up the Canon
is Mt. Watkins, Cloud's Rest, a cascade, and Lake Ten-ie-ya.

This brief outline of description includes the principal
points of interest on the north side of the valley. From
the lower part of the valley, the first prominent object
reached on the south side, is the Bridal Yeil Fall. The
water of the "Po-ho-no" here falls over a cliff from a per-
pendicular height of 630 feet, onto a sloping pile of debris^
about 300 feet above the level of the Merced, in reaching
which it rushes down the slope among the rocks in cascades
and branching outlets. The total height of the cliff over
which the water falls is about 900 feet. The trees on the
slope below conceal the lower part of the fall, so that at a
distance it appears as if reaching to the bottom of the val-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 255

ley. Just above the Bridal Yeil are what have been termed
the " Three Graces," and not far above these, are the pecu-
liar appearing pinnacles of rocks to which the names of
Cathedral Eock and Cathedral Spires have been given.
Cathedral Eock is 2,660 feet high. The spires just bej^ond
are about the same height from the level of the valley.
They are pointed columns of granite 500 feet high, attached
at their base with the cliff forming the side of the valley.
The next prominent object on the south side is Sentinel
Eock, 3,043 feet high. This pinnacle of granite is on the
extremity of a point of rocks extending into the valley.
For a thousand feet or more, it has the form of an obelisk,
below which it forms a part of the projecting rocks. The
next object is the massive point projecting into the valley,
and which here forms an angle towards the south; it is
called Glacier Point. This has an elevation of 3,200 feet
above the valley. From this point some of the finest views
of the vicinity can be seen. Behind Glacier Point and Sen-
tinel Eock, appearing as if these clifts formed a part of its
base, is the South Dome, known also as the Sentiual Dome.
The name of " South Dome " was originally given to this
dome-shaped mass of granite by our battalion. It is 4,150
feet above the valley. The South or Glacier Canon is just
above Glacier Point. At the head of this rocky impassable
canon, is the beautiful fall I have named " Glacier Fall."
This fall is about 600 feet high. The middle canon, Yan-
opah, opens from the east. The Merced river comes down
this canon into the valley.

In a distance of two miles, a descent from over 2,000 feet
of perpendicular height is made. This includes the Yernal
and Nevada Falls. The Yernal is about 350 feet high; the
JS'evada something over 600 feet. The rapids between the
falls have a descent of adout 300 feet. The Yernal and Ne-
vada are about one mile apart. On the north side of the

256 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

middle canon is the Cap of Liberty, rising to a height of
2,000 feet above its base near the foot of the ISTevada Fall.
This stupendous mass of rock stands nearly perpendicular
on all sides but one. Farther up, on the south side of Ten-
ie-ya Canon, is Clouds Eest, whicli is 6,000 feet above the
bottom of the Yosemite. Between Glacier Canon and
Yanopah is the Noble Starr King. The immense cliff form-
ing the extreme westerly point of the divide between Ten-
ie-ya Canon and the Yanopah branch, has had various names
affixed to it, none of which seems to have been satisfactory.
It was between the lower face of this wall and Glacier Point
that Capt. Boling laid off and had cleared for use his race-
course; and hence, in speaking of the locality, it was some-
times designated as Boling's Point, as the starting place for
the race.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 257

CHAPTER XYL

A Trip to Los Angeles — Interview with Col. McKee — A Night at Col.
Fremont's Camp — Management of Cattle by the Colonel's Herdsmen-
Back to Los Angelos — Specimen Bricks of the Angel City — An Addi-
tion to our Party — Mules Versus Bears — Don Vincente — A Silver
Mine — Mosquitos— A Dry Bog — Return to Fresno — Muster out of Bat-
talion— A Proposition.

On arriving at head-quarters on the Fresno, with the
remnant of the once numerous and defiant band of Yosem-
ite Indians, whose thieving propensities and murderous
attacks had made them a dread to miners and " ranche "
men; we found a oreneral feelino^ of confidence that the " In-
dian war" was ended. The commissioners, with a special
escort of U. S. soldiers which had accompanied them from
San Francisco, had gone to King's River to treat with the
bands collected for that purpose; and were then to visit the
region farther South on their way to Los Angelos, where
they expected to meet and co-operate with Gen. Bean, who
was stationed with his volunteer force at the Gabon Pass.
Major Savage liad learned from his Indians, who once more
seemed to idolize him, that all the bands in the vicinity of
the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers, had " made peace," and
that the commissioners had started for Te-jon Pass.

Considering the Indian outbreak as completely sup-
pressed, the major at once reported the condition of aftairs
to the governor, and recommended that the " Mariposa Bat-
talion" be mustered out and honorably discharged from
IT

258 DISCO f^ERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

further service. He sent Captain Boling to report in per-
son to the commissioners. I was detailed as one of the
Captain's escort, and Mr. Winchester, a newspaper corres.
pondent, accompanied us. Captain Boling expected to over-
take the commissioners at Te-hon Pass.

This trip was in no way objectionable to me, for I was
desirous to visit that part of the country with a view of
selecting a location, if I found my plans to be practicable.
Through the advice of Major Savage, I had in contempla-
tion a design to establish a trading post in the vicinity of
Te-hon Pass. In this project, I was assured of the Major's
friendship and co-operation as soon as the battalion was
mustered out. He designed to extend his trading opera-
tions, and thought that a post in the vicinity of the pass
w^ould control the trade destined to spring up on both sides
of the mountains. I was provided with recommendations
to the commissioners, to use in case I desired a trader's per-
mit on one of the reservations. The commissioners were
while en route prospecting for locations and selections of
public lands for the Indians. The object of these selections,
was to make the experiment of engaging them in .agricul-
tural pursuits under the management of the general gov-
ernment. I had but little confidence that the latter could be
made self-supporting wards of the nation; but I was will-
ing in political as in religious affairs, that each zealot should
believe that he had discovered a sovereign balm for the
wants of humanity. However, self-interest prompted me to
be observant of passing events.

I was aware, even at that early day, that the California
Indians had become objects of speculation to the " rings "
that scented them as legitimate prey. The trip to the Te-
jon Pass was made without incident or accident to delay
our movements, but on our arrival it was found that the
Commissioners had been gone several days, and were prob-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 259

ablj then in Los Angelos. This we learned from an Indian
styled by his " christian name''' Don Yincente. This chief
was a Mission Indian, and spoke some Spanish. His peo-
ple, although in appearance hardly equal to the mountain
tribes, provided themselves with fruit and vegetables of their
own raising.

From " Senor Don Yincente" we obtained roasting ears
of corn, melons, etc., which were an agreeable surprise.
While on the trip we had found game in abundance, and,
surfeited with fresh meat, the vegetables seemed better than
any we had ever before eaten. Yincente's system of irriga-
tion was very complete.

Captain Boling was not anxious to follow the trail of the
Commissioners beyond this camp. I had already informed
him of my desire to see the Commissioners and make some
examination of that locality before our return. He there-
fore decided to retrace his own steps, but to send me on as
a special messenger to the Commissioners.

He instructed me to make all possible despatch to deliver
his report and messages, but on my return trip I had liberty
to make such delays as suited my convenience. He also
wished me to convey a verbal message from Major Savage
to Colonel Fremont, to the effect that the Indians congrega-
ted at the Fresno were anxiously awaiting the arrival of
some of his cattle. Col. Fremont had already made a large
contract for supplying them with beef, and was supposed to
be in Los Angelos or vicinity, buying up animals for the
agencies. My arrangements for following the Commission-
ers were hardly commenced, before Col. William T. Hen-
derson, a ranchman from near Quartzberg, rode up to our
camp. He was an acquaintance, and was on his way to Los
Angelos with a King's Hiver Indian guide. I at once sad-
dled my mule, and taking an extra animal furnished for the
occasion, joined Henderson, making the trip a more agree-
able and pleasant one than I had anticipated.

260 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Col. Henderson afterwards became famous, at least
among his friends, as chief instrument under Ca})tain
Harry Love, of causing the death of " Joaquin Muriata "
and " Three fingered Jack," and in capturing two or three
of Muriata's band of robbers. On entering the city of Los
Angelos, 1 found Col. McKee at his hotel. Neither Col.
Barbour nor Col. Fremont were in the city. Doctor Woo-
zen-croft was in San Francisco. I was cordially received
and hospitably entertained by Col. McKee while I made
my report, and answered his questions. At his request, I
stated a few facts relating to the Yosemite Yalley, and he
appeared an interested listener; but distinguishing a look
of incredulity, when I gave him rny estimates of heights, I
made the interview as brief as possible. Ascertaining that
Col. Fremont was only a few miles from the city, I rode
out to his camp, delivered my message, and gave him a
general view of the situation in Mariposa county, where his
famous estate is situated. I staid over night with him and
was hospitably provided for.

The Colonel's whole bearing was that of an accomplished
man of the world, and I felt that I was in the presence of a
gentleman of education and refinement. During the morn-
ing I watched his vaqueros or herdsman training the cattle
preparatory to starting north for their destination. This
breaking-in process was accomplished by driving them in
a circle over the plain near the camp, and was done to fa-
miliarize them with each other, and with the commands of
the herdsmen, before attempting to drive them from their
native grazing grounds.

On my return to the city I again called on Colonel Mc-
Kee to see if he had any return message to Major Savage.
On my first visit the subject of reservations was not pre-
sented. Upon this occasion it was naturally brought up by
an allusion to the Colonel's plan of " christianizing thejpoor

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 261

Indians. My doubt of the feasibility of this work was
better concealed than were his doubts of my heights of the
Yosemite, and with considerable fervor the good old gentle
man unfolded his plans for the christianizing of the Indians.
His estimate of the number in Mariposa county was sim-
ply fabulous, and when I quietly asked him if he supposed
there were really so many, he, with some choler, answered,
" Why, sir, these figures are official."

During this conversation, I was informed that the Fresno,
King's Elver and Te-jon Pass selections would be recom-
mended, although it appeared that the latter was claimed
as an old and long disputed Spanish grant. On stating
that I had had some idea of locating in the vicinity of the Te-
jon Pass as soon as that selection was decided upon, I was
advised by Colonel McKee to be in no haste to do so, but
was assured of his good will in any application I might make
after their policy was established; for, added the Colonel,
" Major Savage has already spoken of you as an energetic
and efficient person, and one calculated to materially aid us
in future work with these Indians."

Let it suffice here to say, that I never made application
for a permit as a licensed trader on any Indian reservation;
and I am not yet aware that any of tliese reservations have
afforded the Indians means of self-support. I was some-
what familiar with the management of the Fresno agency,
and do not hesitate to say that it was not wholly commend-
able. I was not personally familiar with that of the Te-jon
Pass agricultural manao^ement. This was one of the most
delightful regions of California; and the region covered by
the Mexican or Spanish grant was, in my opinion, intrin-
sically more valuable than the whole of the celebrated Mar-
iposa estate of Col. Fremont, which had " millions in it."
After a vast amount of monej* had been expended on this
reservation by the general government, I believe it was con-

262 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

firmed as a Spanish or Mexican grant, and finally passed in-
to tlie possession of General Beal, who was for some years
Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Californi:^, I never
f^aw General Beal, and therefore was only able to judge of
him or his management through his official reports and let-
ters relating to the Indian Affiiirs of California. These will
receive some special notice further on.

My recollections of the interviews with Colonel McKee,
are of a most agreeable character. The sincerity wi th which
he advised me with regard to my individual affairs, and the
correctness of his representations of the prospective condi-
tion of the Tejon Pass, if it should prove a valid Mexican
grant, was serviceable to me, and subsequent events verified
his judgment. Colonel McKee was a high-minded christian
gentleman, but really nnsuited to deal with the political
element then existing on the Pacific coast. The other
two commissioners, Colonel Barbour and Dr. Woozencroft,
I never became acquainted with, though upon one occasion
I met Colonel Barbour at head-quarters, and received a very
favorable impression of his character. In leaving Colonel
McKee after my second interview, I could not at once relin-
quish my design of ultimatel}^ establishing myself near the
Tejon. Having completed my business, I reported myself
to Henderson as ready, and found that he also had been able
to despatch his affairs, and had no business to detain him
longer. Together we took a stroll through the principal
street, and visited some popular resorts. However angelic
the unseen portion of this city — of then less than two thous-
and inhabitants — may have been, it appeared to us as a city
of fallen angels with their attendant satellites. x\lthough
our observations were made in a dull portion of the day, we
witnessed on the street one pugilistic encounter, two shoot-
ing affrays, and a reckless disregard of life, and property
rights generally, never allowed in a civilized community.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 263

We soon discovered that good arms and a firm demeanor
were the only passports to respectful consideration.

The authorities seemed too indifferent or too timid to
maintain order, or punish the offenders against law. Satis-
fied that the "City of Angels" could exhibit more unadul-
terated wickedness than any other town in the State at that
time, we shook the dust from our feet, and in order to get
an early start the next morning, rode out to the vicinity of
Col. Fremont's camp. Our party was increased by tlie ad-
dition of two gentlemen, who joined us for protection and
guidance. The name of one of them has escaped m}^ mem-
ory; the other was Doctor Bigelow, of Detroit, Michigan,
a geologist, who at one time was engaged in a geological
survey of a portion of Lake Superior. We left our camp
before sunrise, Henderson and myself riding in advance;
our guests, Indian and pack-mule bringing up the rear.
This order of traveling was maintained as a matter of con-
venience, for being well mounted, Henderson and myself
were able to secure deer, antelope and a supply of smaller
game, without hardly leaving the trail or delaying our pro-
gress.

Among the foot-hills of the mountain slopes we saw sev-
eral black bears cross the trail ahead, but not being out of
meat, we did not urgently solicit their company. We did,
however, once have our appetite aroused for "bar meat,"
but failed to supply the material for the feast. Halting for
a rest at the foot of a ravine, and being very thirsty, we fol-
lowed the indications to water exhibited by our mules.
These were secured while we explored the brushy ravine for
the water-hole. As we reached the desired water, two fat
cubs came waddling out of the pool, and ran into a clump
of dwarf willow.

Congratulating each other on the prospect of roast cub
for supper, we tried to get a shot with our revolvers, but a

264 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

rousing demonstration from the parental bear, which sud-
denly appeared, alarmed our cautiousness, and we retreated
hurriedly, but in good order, to the place where we had care-
lessly left our rifles. Hastily mounting, we returned the
compliment by at once charging on the bear and her cubs,
which were now endeavoring to escape.

As we approached near enough for the mules to see and
scent the game, they halted, and commenced marking time.
Neither spurs or the butts of our rifles could persuade them
to make a forward movement. Thinking I might secure a
cub that stood temporarily in sight, I raised my rifle, but in
so doing slackened the reins, when with the ease and celer-
ity of a well-drilled soldier, my mule came to an " ahout
face^'' and instantly left that localit}^ Henderson's mule
became unmanageable, and after a lusty " we-haw ! we-
haw! " followed me, while the afii'ighted bear family scram
bled ofl" in search of a place of security. Pulling up as
soon as we could control our frightened animals, Henderson
congratulated me on possessing one so active on a retreat,
while I complimented the intelligence of his own, which
would not voluntarily endanger his master.

After a hearty laugh at our comic illustration of a bear
hunt, it was mutually agreed that a mule was not reliable
in a charge upon bruin.

A mule may be the equal of a horse in intelligence, but
his inferiority of spirit and courage in times of danger pre-
vents his becoming a favorite, except as a beast for work or
mountain travel.

On arriving at the rancheria of the chief Yincente, I in-
duced Henderson to stop and explore the country. The lus-
cious watermelons and abundant supplies of vegetables were
strong arguments in favor of a few days' rest for our ani-
mals and recreation for ourselves. In the meantime Doctor
Bigelow had told us of a traditional silver mine that he had

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 265

been informed existed somewliere in the locality of the Te-
jon. I found the pompous old chief fond of displaying his
knowledge of agriculture, which was really considerable,
and I complimented him upon his success, as was deserved.

After paying him for the things liberally supplied our
party, and wliich with a show of Spanish courtesy he intima-
ted he had given us because he was "a good Christian" —
though he frequently crossed himself while expressing his
fear of " witches " or demons — I opened up the subject of
the old silver mine. I designated it as some kind of a mine
that had once been worked by an Englishman. We were
told by " Don Yincente" that such a mine had been dis-
covered many years before, by white men, who, after work-
ing it for awhile, had been driven off or killed; " but for
the love of God " he could not tell which. A¥e expressed a
wish to visit the old mine, and asked permission of the chief
He told us it was not in the territory claimed by him, and
he was thankful that it was not, as the location was haunt-
ed. When asked if he would furnish us a guide, who should
be well paid for his service, he answered, " Go, and God go
with you, but none of my people shall go, for it would bring
upon us evil." AYe were shown the mouth of the ravine,
after some persuasion, but no argument or inducement could
procure a guide to the mine.

" Don Yincente," like all the Mission Indians of Califor-
nia, I found to be strongly imbued with the superstitions
of the wild tribes^ and a firm believer in the power of hu-
man departed spirits to harm the living. Many, like those
of the east, believed that the wizards or sorcerers could put
a spell npon a victim, that if not disenchanted would soon
carry him to his grave.

Leaving our extra animals in the care of Yincente, we
took our course towards the mouth of the ravine pointed
out to us, southwest of the Tejon. After a tedious and dif-

266 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ficult search, a discovery of some float mineral was made,
and following up these indications, we found some very rude
furnaces, and a long distance above discovered the mine,
which had evidently been abandoned for years. We
procured some of the best specimens of the ore, and being
unable to determine its value, forwarded some to assayers
in San Francisco. Doctor Bigelow pronounced the mineral
to be that of antimony, but said that it might possibly con-
tain some of the precious metals, but it was quite evident
that he placed but little commercial value upon the mine.
The reports finally received from the assayers were very un-
favorable, and our visions of untold wealth vanished with
the smoke of the assay.

On our return from the exploration of the ''^Silver Mine^''
we carefully concealed our discovery from Yincente and his
people, and avoided exciting their curiosity. Our animals
were rested, and in an improved condition, for the grass
was rich and abundant. Don Yincente was as much de-
lighted with our presents of tobacco and trinkets, which we
had carried with us for such occasions, as any of the *' Gen-
tile''^ nations would have been. We took our departure
from the hospitalities of the Mission Chief without having
had any occurrence to divert the mutually friendly feelings
that had been fostered in our intercourse. We had de-
signed, on starting from the rancheria of Don Yincente, to
leave the direct trail to Mariposa, and explore the lake re-
gion of the Tulare valley. Unfortunately for the success
of this undertaking, we made our first camp too near the
marshy shore of Kern Lake. We had selected the camp
ground for the convenience of water and fresh grass for our
animals, but as night closed in, the mosquitoes swarmed
from the surrounding territory, making such vigorous
charges upon us and our animals, that we were forced to
retreat from their persistent attacks, and take refTige on the

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 267

high land away from the vicinity of the Tule or Bullrush
marshes. Having no desire to continue the acquaintance
of the inhabitants who had thronged to welcome our ap-
proach, our ambition for making further exploration was so
much weakened, that we silently permitted our mules to
take their course towards the direct trail. Col. Henderson
declared that the mosquitoes on these lakes were larger, more
numerous, and in greater variety, than in the swamps of
Louisiana, and Doctor Bigelow said that hitherto he had
ratlier prided himself, as a Michigander, on the earnest char-
acter of those of Michigan, but that in future, he should be
willing to accept as a standard of all the possibilities of mos-
quito growth, those that had reluctantly parted with us at
Kern Lake. Keeping the rich alluvial low lands on our
left, we crossed a strip of alkali plain, through which our
animals floundered as if in an ash heap. This Henderson
designated as a " dry hog?- Deviating still farther to the
right to avoid this, an old trail was struck, either Indian or
animal, which led ns into the main trail usually traveled
up and down the valley. At the crossing of one of the
numerous mountain streams, we found a good camping
place on a beautiful table overlooking this rich territory,
where we would be secure from the assaults of enemies.

After a refreshing bath in the cool waters of the stream,
we slept the sleep of the blessed, and mosquitoes once more
became to us unknown objects of torture. The next morn-
ing we found ourselves refreshed and buoyant.

Our animals, like ourselves, seemed to feel in elevated
spirits, and as we vaulted into our saddles at an early hour,
they moved rapidly along in the cool and bracing air. As
we rode, drove after drove of antelope and elk were seen,
and one small band of mustangs approached from the west,
when, after vainly neighing to our mules, they turned and
galloped back toward their favorite resort, the west side of

268 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

the valley. Sometimes, with a halting look of scrutiny, a
coyote would cross our trail, but their near vicinity was
always recognized by our vigilant mules with a snort and
pause in their gait, that was probably designed to intimate
to us that it might be another bear. We beguiled the time
in discussing the amazing fertility of the country we were
traversing, and the probability of its future occupancy.
At the present time, thriving cities and immense wheat
fields occupy localities where in 1851 game and wild mus-
tangs roamed almost undisturbed by the white man's tread,
or the flash or gleam of his unerring rifle. There is still
room for the enterprising settler, and the upper end of the
San Joaquin Yalley may yet be called the sportsman's
paradise. The lakes and streams swarm with fish, and are
the resort of water-fowl, and deer, elk and antelope are still
plentiful in secluded localities.

We reached the Fresno in safety without interrupting in-
cidents, and without further attempt at exploration. Col-
onel Henderson, Doctor Bigelow, and his companion du
voyage, after a short halt passed on to Qnartzberg, while I
stopped over to make my report to the Major. To my ex-
treme surprise, Major Savage questioned me as to the cause
of my tardiness, saying he had been expecting me for two
or three days past, and that the cattle were now within the
valley and would in a short time be at the reservation. Af-
ter sufiiciently enjoying my astonishment at his knowledge
of my movements and those of Fremont's herders, he in-
formed me that his old power and influence over the Indians
had been re-established, and that reports came to him
from the difierent chiefs of all important events transpiring
in their territory. He soon satisfied me that through a ju-
dicious distribution of presents to the runners, and the es-
teem in which he was held by the chiefs, he was able to
watch the proceedings of strangers, for every movement of

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851,

our party had been reported to him in detail. I was cor-
dially received by the Major, as a guest in his new trading
house, which he had erected during our absence. We dis-
cussed the probable future of the management of Indian
affairs in California, and tlie incidents of my trip to Los
Augelos. The Major informed me that the battalion had
beed mustered out of service during my absence (on July
25th, 1851), but that my interests liad been properly repre-
sented and cared for, as far as he had been able to act with-
out my presence. But in order to receive compensation as
interpreter and for extra medical services, it was discovered
that separate accounts and vouchers would be required,
which he and Captain Boling would at any time certify.
The major then informed me tliat he had made his arrange-
ments to recommence his trading operations on as large a
scale as might be required. That he could make more as a
trader than as an employe of government, and at the same
time be free from their cares and anxieties. He advised me
to take a subordinate position until I should be able to de-
cide upon a better location. He said he could make my
position a profitable one if I desired to remain with him.

The major gave me a general insight into his future
plans, and some of the sources of his expected profits. After
this conversation, I gave up all idea of establishing at the
Tejon or any where else as a government trader. Having
been so long absent from my private business, which I
had left under the management of a partner; I made this
a sufficient excuse for my departure the next morning and
for my inability to accept the major's kindly ofier. As I
was leaving, the major said: " I was in hopes to have secured
your services, and still think you may change your mind.
If you do, ride over at once and you will find a place open
for you.

This confidence and friendship I felt demanded some re-

270 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

turn, and I frankly said ; " Major Savage, you are surrounded
by combinations that I don't like. Sharp men are endeavoring
to use you as a tool to work their gold mine. Beside this,
you have hangers-on here that are capable of cutting your
throat." Contrary to my expectation the Major was not in
the least offended at my frankness; on the contrary, he
thanked me for my interest and said : " Doc, while you study
books, I study men. I am not often very much deceived,
and I perfectly understand the present situation, but let
those laugh who win. If I can make good my losses hy the
Indians out of the Indians, I am going to do it. I was the
best friend the Indians had, and they would have destroyed
me. Now that they once more call me " Chief," they shall
build me up. I will be just to them, as I have been merci-
ful, for after all, they are but poor ignorant beings, but
ray losses must be made good." Bidding the Major good
morning, I left him with many kindly feelings, and as I
rode on my solitary way to Mariposa, I thought of his many
noble qualities, his manly courage, his generous hospital-
ity, his unyielding devotion to friends, and his kindness to
immigrant strangers. These all passed in review before ray
mind, and then, I reversed the picture to see if anything
was out of proportion, in the picture I had drawn of my
hero. There were very serious defects, but such as would
naturally result from a misdirected education, and a strong
will, but they were capable of becoming virtues. As to the
Major's kindly offer, although I appreciated his feeling's
towards me, I could not accent it.

With many others, I had joined in the operations against
the Indians from conscientious motives and in good faith
to chastise them for the numerous murders and frequent
robberies they were committing. Our object was to com-
pel them to keep the peace, that we might be permitted to
live undisturbed by their depredations. We had sufficient

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 271

general intelligence and knowledge of tlieir character to
know that we were looked upon as trespassers on their ter-
ritory, but were unwilling to abandon our search for gold,
or submit to their frequent demands for an ever- increasing
tribute. Beside other property, I had lost four valuable
horses, which were taken to satisfy their appetites Neither
Bonner's nor Yanderbilt's love for horses, was ever greater
than was that of those mountain Indians. No horse was
considered too valuable for them to eat. Notwithstanding
all this sense of injury done to my personal interests, I
could not justify myself in joining any scheme to wrong
them, or rather, the government; and it was too plainly
evident that no damages could be obtained for losses,
except through the California Indian Ring that was now
pretty well established. During the operations of the Bat-
talion, the plans of the Ring were laid, and it was deter-
mined that when the war should be ended, "a vigorous
peace policy" should be inaugurated. Estimates of the
probable number of Indians that it would be necessary to
provide for in Mariposa county alone, accidentally fell un-
der my observation, and I at once saw that it was the design
to deceive the government and the people in regard to the
actual number, in order to obtain froln Congress large ap-
propriations. These estimates were cited as official by
Col. McKee, and w^ere ten times more than the truth w^ould
warrant. Major Savage justified his course in using the
opportunity to make himself whole again, while acting as
a trader, and in aiding others to secure ^'a good thing," by
the sophism that he was not responsible for the action of
the commissioners or of Congress.

273 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

CHAPTEK XYIL

Captain Boling elected Sheriff— Appointment of Indian Agrents — Ten-
ie-ya allowed to return to Yosemite — Murder of Visitors — Lt.
Moore's Expedition and Punishment of Murderers — Gold Discoveries
on Eastern Slope of Sierras — Report of Expedition, and first Pub-
lished Notice of Yosemite— Squatter Sovereignty — Assault upon
King's River Reservation — The Supposed Leader, Harvey, De-
nounced by Major Savage — A Rencounter and death of Savage —
Harvey Liberated by a Friendly Justice — An Astute Superintendent
— A Mass Meeting — A Rival Aspirant — Indians and Indian Policy.

After being mustered out, the members of the battalion at
once returned to tlieir various avocations. I was fully occu-
pied with mining and trading operations, and hence gave
little heed to affairs at the Fresno. Through Captain Bol-
ing, however, who was elected Sheriff of the county, and
whose business carried him to all parts of the country, I
learned of the appointment of Col. Thomas Henly as agent
for the tribes of Mariposa county, and as sub-agents M. B.
Lewis for the Fresno and Wm. J. Campbell for the King's
River Agencies. I afterwards met Coi. Henly and Mr. Lewis
in Mariposa, and was much pleased with the Colonel. Both of
these gentlemen were kind and genial; but Mr. Lewis soon
tired of his office as unsiiited to his taste, and accepted a
position in the State Government under Major Roman.
His successor, I believe, was Capt. Yincinthalor. Old
Ten-ie-ya, and his band, were never recipients of friendly
favors from Savage, nor was he in very good standing with
the agent. This was known to the other chiefs, and they

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 273

frequently taunted him with his downfall. The old chief
chafed under the contemptuous treatment of those who had
once feared him and applied to the sub-agent or farmer for
permission to go back to his mountain home. He claimed
that he could not endure the heat at the agency, and said
he preferred acorns to the rations furnished him by the Gov-
ernment.

To rid itself of the consequences engendered by these petty
squabbles with the old chief, the management at the Fresno
consented to a short absence under restrictions. Ten-ie-ya
promised to perform all requirements, and joyfully left tlie
hot and dry reservation, and with his family, took the trail
to the Yosemite once more. As far as is known, Ten-ie-ya
kept faith and disturbed no one. Soon after his departure,
however, a few of his old followers quietly left the Fresno
as was supposed to join him, but as no complaints were
made by their chiefs, it was understood that they were glad
to be rid of them ; therefore no effort was made to bring
them back. During the winter of 1851-52 a considerable
number of horses were stolen, but as some of them were
found in the possession of Mexicans, who were promptly exe-
cuted for the theft, no charge was preferred against the
Yosemites.

Early in May, 1852, a small party of miners from Coarse
Gold Gulch, started out on a prospecting tour with the in-
tention of making a visit to the Y^osemite Yalley.

The curiosity of some of these men had been excited by
descriptions of it, made by some of the ex-members of the
Battalion who had gone to Coarse Gold Gulch, soon after
their discharge. This party spent some little time prospect-
ing on their way. Commencing on the south fork of the
Merced, they tested the mineral resources of streams tribu-
tary to it; and then, passing over the divide on the old trail,
camped for the purpose of testing the branches leading
18

27-1 DISCO y EH i: of the yosemite,

into the main Merced. While at this camp, thej were vis-
ited by begging Indians; a frequent occurrence in the min-
ing camps of some localities. The Indians appeared friend-
ly, and gave no indications of hostile intentions. Tliey
gave the party to understand, however, that the territory
the}^ were then in, belonged to them, although no tribute
was demanded. The miners compreliended their intima-
tions, but paid no attention to their claim, being aware that
this whole region had been ceded to the Government by
treaty during the year before.

Having ascertained that they were a part of the Yosemite
Band, the miners by signs, interrogated them as to the
direction of the valley, but this they refused to answer or
pretended not to understand. The valley however, was
known to be near, and no difficulty was anticipated, when
the party were ready to visit it, as an outline map, fur-
nished them before starting, had thus far proved reliable.
Unsuspicious of danger from an attack, they reached the
valle3% and while entering it on the old trail, were am-
bushed by the Indians from behind some rocks at or near
the foot of the trail, and two of the party were instantly
killed. Another was seriously wounded, but finally suc-
ceeded in making his escape. The names of the two men
killed were Rose and Shurbon; the name of the wounded
man was Tudor.

The reports of these murders, alarmed many of the citi-
zens. They were fearful that the Indians would become
excited and leave the reservations, in which case, it was
thought, a general outbreak would result. The management
of the Fresno agency was censured for allowing Ten-ie-ya to
return to the valley, and for allowing so considerable a num-
ber of his followers to again assemble under his leadership.
Among the miners, *ihis alarm was soon forgotten, for it was
found that instead of leaving the reservations, the Indians

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 275

camped outside, fled to the agencies for protection, lest thej
should be picked off in revenge for the murders perpetrated
by the Yo-sem-i-tes. The officer in command at Fort
Miller, was notified of these murders, and a detachment of
regular soldiers under Lt. Moore, U. S. A., was at once dis-
patched to capture or punish the red-skins. Beside the
detachment of troops, scouts and guides, and a few of the
friends of the murdered men accompanied the expedition.
Among the volunteer scouts, was A. A. Gray, usualy called
" Gus " Gray. He had been a member ot Captain Eoling's
company and was with us, wlien the valley was discovered,
as also on our second visit to the valley under Captain Bol-
ing. He had been a faithful explorer, and his knowledge
of the valley and its vicinity, made his services valuable to
Lt. Moore, as special guide and scout for that locality.
The particulars of this expedition I obtained from Gray.
He was afterward a Captain under Gen. Walker, of Nic-
aragua notoriety. Under the guidance of Gray, Lt. Moore
entered the valley in the night, and was successful in sur-
prising and capturing a party of five savages; but an alarm
was given, and Ten-ie-ya and his people fled from their
huts and escaped. On examination of the prisoners in the
morning, it was discovered that each of them had some ar-
ticle of clothing that had belonged to the murdered men.
The naked bodies of Rose and Shurbon were found and
buried. Their graves were on the edge of the little
meadow near the Bridal Yail Fall.

When the captives were accused of the murder of the
two white men, they did not deny the charge; but tacitly
admitted that they had done it to prevent white men from
coming to their valley. They declared that it was their
home, and that white men had no right to come there with-
out their consent.

Lieutenant Moore told them, through bis interpreter, that

276 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

they had sold their lands to the Government, that it belonged
to the white men now; that the Indians had no right there.
They had signed a treaty of peace with the whites, and had
agreed to live on the reservations provided foi* them. To
this they replied that Ten-ie-ya had never consented to the
sale of their valley, and had never received pay for it. The
otlier chiefs, they said, had no right to sell their territory,
and no right to langh at their misfortunes.

Lieutenant Moore became fully satisfied that he had cap-
tured the real murderers, and the abstract questions of title
and jurisdiction, were not considered debatable in this case.
He promptly pronounced judgment, and sentenced them
to be shot. They were at once placed in line, and by his
order, a volley of musketry from tlie soldiers announced
that the spirits of five Indians were liberated to occupy
ethereal space.

This may seem summary justice for a single individual,
in a republic, to meet out to fellow beings on his own
judgment; but a formal judicial killing of these Indians
could not have awarded more summary justice. This
prompt disposition of the captured murderers, was wit-
nessed by a scout sent out by Ten-ie-ya to watch the move-
ments of Lieutenant Moore and his command, and was
immediately reported to the old chief, who with his people
at once made a precipitate retreat from their hiding places,
and crossed the mountains to their allies, the Pai-utes and
Monos. Although this was in June, the snow, which was
lighter than the year before at this time, was easily crossed
by the Indians and their families. After a short search, in
the vicinity of the valley. Lieutenant Moore struck their trail
at Lake Ten-ie-ya, and followed them in close pursuit, with
an expressed determination to render as impartial justice
to the whole band as he had to the five in the valley. It
was no disappointment to me to learn from Gray, that

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 277

when once alarmed, old Ten-ie-ya was too much for Lieu-
tenant Moore, as he had been for Major Savage and Captain
Boling. Lieutenant Moore did not overtake the Indians
he was pursuing, neither was he able to get any informa-
tion from the Pai-utes, whom he encountered, while east
of the Sierras. Lieutenant Moore crossed tlio Sierras
over the Mono trail that leads by the Soda Springs through
the Mono Pass. He made some fair discoveries of gold
and gold-bearing quartz, obsidian and other minerals,
wliile exploring the region north and south of Bloody
Canon and of Mono Lake. Finding no trace whatever of
the cunning chief, he returned to the Soda Springs, and
from there took his homeward journey to Fort Miller by way
of the old trail that passed to the south of the Yosemite.

Lieutenant Moore did not discover the Soda Springs nor
the Mono Lake country, but he brought into prominent no-
tice the existence of the Yosemite, and of minerals in pay-
ing quantities upon the Eastern Slope. Mr. Moore made a
brief descriptive report of his expedition, that found its way
into the newspapers. At least, I was so informed at the
time, though unable to procure it. I saw, however, some
severe criticisms of his display of autocratic power in order-
ing the five Yosemites shot.

After the establishment of the "Mariposa Chronicle" by
W. T. Witachre and A. S. Gould, the first number of which
was dated January 20, 1854. Lieutenant Moore, to more
fully justify himself or gratify public curiosity, published
in the "Chronicle" a letter descriptiive of the expedition
and its results. In this letter he dropped the terminal let-
ter "y" in the name " Yosemity," as it had been written
previously by myself and other members of the bat-
talion, and substituted "e," as before stated. As Lieuten-
ant Moore's article attracted a great deal of public attention
at that time, the name, with its present orthography, was ac-

278 DISCOVERT OE THE TOSEMITE,

cepted. A copy of the paper containing Moore's letter was
in my possession for many years, but, finally, to my ex-
treme regret, it was lost or destroyed.

To Lieutenant Moore belongs the credit of being the first
to attract the attention of the scientific and literary world,
and "The Press" to the wonders of the Yo^emite Yalley.
His position as an officer of the regular army, established
a reputation for his article, that could not be expected by
other correspondents. I was shown by Gray, who was ex-
hibiting them in Mariposa, some very good specimens of
gold quartz, that were found on the Moore expedition.
Leroy Yining, and a few chosen companions, with one of
Moore's scouts as guide, went over the Sierras to the place
where the gold had been found, and established themselves
on what has since been known as Yining's Gulch or Creek.

On the return of Lieutenant Mooi'e to Fort Miller, the
news of his capture of the Indians, and his prompt execu-
tion of them as the murderers of Rose and Shurbon, occa-
sioned some alarm among the timid, which was encouraged
and kept alive by unprincipled and designing politicians.
All kinds of vague rumors were put in circulation. Many
not in the secret supposed another Indian war would be in-
augurated. Political factions and " Indian Pings " encour-
aged a belief in the most improbable rumors, hoping thereby
to influence Congressional action, or operate upon the War
Department to make large estimates for the California Indian
Service.

This excitement did not extend beyond the locality of
its origin, and the citizens were undisturbed in their in-
dustries by these rumors. During all this time no indica-
tions of hostilities were exhibited by any of the tribes
or bands, although the abusive treatment they received at
the hands of some, was enough to provoke contention.
They quietly remained on the reservations. As far as I was

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 279

able to learn at the time, a few persons envied them the
possession of tlieir King's river reservation, and determined
to '^ squat ^^ upon it, after tliey should have been driven off.
This " border element" was made use of by an unprincipled
schemer by the name of Harvey, whom it was understood
was willing to accept office, when a division of Mariposa
county should have been made, or when a vacancy of any
kind should occur. But population was required, and the
best lands had been reserved for the savages. A few hang-
ers-on, at the agencies, that had been discharged for want
of employment and other reasons, made claims upon the
King's river reservation; the Indians came to warn them
off, when they were at once fired upon, and it was reported
that several were killed.

These agitations and murders were denounced by Major
Savage in unsparing terms, and he claimed that Harvey
was responsible for them. Although the citizens of Mari-
posa were at the time unable to learn the details of the affair
at King's river, which was a distant settlement, the great
mass of the people were sati.->fied tliat wrong had been done
to the Indians. There had been a very decided opposition
by the citizens generally to the establishment of two agen-
cies in the county, and the selection of the best agricultural
lands for reservations. Mariposa then included nearly the
whole San Joaquin valley south of the Tuolumne.

The opponents to the recommendations of the commis-
sioners claimed that "The government of the United States
has no right to select the territory of a sovereign State to
establish reservations for the Indians, nor for any other pur-
pose, without the consent of the State." The State Legis-
lature of 1851-52, instructed the Senators and Kepresenta-
tives in Congress to use their influence to have the Indians
removed beyond the limits of the State. These views had
been advocated by many of the citizens of Mariposa county

280 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

in good faitli; but it was observed that those who most
actively annoyed and persecuted those located on King's
river reservation were countenanced by those who professed
to advocate opposite views. These men were often to be
seen at the agency, apparently the welcome guests of the
employes of government.

It soon became quite evident, that an effort was beiiiir
made to influence public opinion, and create an impression
that there was imminent danu^er; in order that the general
government would thereby be more readily induced to
continue large appropriations to keep in subjection the
comparatively few savages in the country.

It was a well known fact that these people preferred horse-
flesh and their acorn jelly to the rations of beef that were
supposed to have been issued by the Government. During
this time, Major Savage was successfully pursuing his trad j
with the miners of the Fresno and surrounding territory,
and with the Indians at the agency. Frequently those from
the King's River Agency, would come to Savage to trade,
thereby exciting the jealous ire of the King's river traders.
Self-interest as well as public good prompted Savage to use
every means at his disposal to keep these people quiet, and
he denounced Harvey and his associates as entitled to pun-
ishment under the laws of the Government. These denun-
ciations, of course, reached Harvey and his friends. Har-
vey and a sub-agent by the name of Campbell, seemed
most aggrieved at what Savage had said of the aflray, and
both appeared to make common cause in denouncing the
Major in return. Harvey made accusations against the
integrity of Savage, and boasted that Savage would not dare
visit King's river while he, Harvey, was there. As soon as
this reached the Major's ears, he mounted his horse and at
once started for the King's River Agency.

Here, as expected, Harvey was found, in good fellowship

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 281

with Marvin, the quartermaster, and others connected with
the agency. Walking up to Harvej, Major Savage de-
manded of him a retraction of his offen&.ve remarks
concerning himself. This Harvej refused to do, and said
something to the effect that Savage had talked about Harvey.
'' Yes," replied Major Savage, " I have said that you are a
murderer and a coward." Harvey retreated a pace or two
and muttered that it was a lie. As quick as the word was
uttered, Savage knocked Harvey down. Harvey appeared
to play 'possum and made no resistance. As Savage stooped
over the prostrate Harvey, a pistol fell from Savage's waist,
seeing which, Marvin picked it up and held it in his hand
as the Major walked off. Harvey rose to his feet at this
moment, and seeing Marvin with the pistol in 'his hand ex-
claimed, "Judge, you have got my pistol!" Marvin re-
plied, "No! 1 have not. This belongs to Major Savage."
When, instantly, Harvey commenced firing at Major Sav-
age, who, though mortally wounded by the first shot, and
finding his pistol gone, strove hard to once more reach
Harvey, whom he had scorned to further punish when pros-
trate before him.

This was in August, 1852. Harvey was arrested, or gave
himself up, and after the farce of an examination, was dis-
charged. The justice, before whom Harvey was examined,
was a personal friend of the murderer, but had previously
fed upon the bounty of Savage. Afterwards, he commenced
a series of newspaper articles, assailing the Indian manage-
ment of California, and these articles culminated in his re-
ceiving congenial employment at one of the agencies.
Harvey, having killed his man, was now well calculated for
a successful California politician of that period, and was
triumphantly elected to oflfice; but the ghost of Major Sav-
age seemed to have haunted him, for ever after, he was
nervous and irritable, and finally died of paralysis. The

282 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

body of Major Savage was afterwards removed to the Fresno,
near his old trading post. A monument was there erected
to liis memory by I)r. Leach, his successor in business.

I was in San Francisco at the time of these troubles at
the agencies; but upon my return, obtained the main facts
as here stated, from one of the actors in the tragedy.

At about this time, the management of California Indian
affairs, became an important stake in the political circles of
Mariposa. I took but little interest in the factions that
were assaulting each other with charges of corruption.
IN'otwithstanding my lack of personal interest, I was
startled from my indifference by the report of the Superin-
tendent dated February, 1853. His sweeping denunciations
of the people of Mariposa county was a matter of surprise,
as I knew it to be unjust. This report was considered in a
general mass meeting of the best citizens of the county,
and was very properly condemned as untrue. Among those
who took an active part in this meeting were Sam Bell
(once State Comptroller), Judge Bondurant, Senator James
Wade, and other members of the State Legislature, and
many iniiuential citizens, who generally took but a minor
interest in political affairs.

The records of the meeting, and the resolutions condemn-
ing the statements of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs,
which were unanimously adopted, and were published in
the "Mariposa Chronicle" after its establishment, I have pre-
served as a record of the times. The meeting expressed the
general sentiment of the people, but it accomplished noth-
ing in opposition to the Superintendent's policy, for the
people soon discovered that the great '^Agitator " at these
meetings was a would-be rival of the Superintendent. We
therefore bowed our heads and thought of the fox in the
fable. I never chanced to meet the gentleman who was at
that time Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and know noth-

AND INulAN WAR OF 1851. 283

ing of him personally, but upon reading an official letter of
his dated at Los Angeles, August 22ud, 1853, in which he
speaks of " The establishment of an entire new system of
government, which is to change the character and habits of
a hundred thousand persons." And another letter dated
San Francisco, September 30th, 1853, saying that his farm
agent, Mr. Edwards, " Had with great tact and with the
assistance of Mr. Alexander Gody, by traveling from tribe
to tribe, and talking constantly with them, succeeded in
preventing any outbreak or disturbance in the San Joaquin
Yalley." I came to the conclusion that the Superintendent
of Indian Affairs was under astute management, or that he
was one of the shrewdest of the many shrewd operators on
the Pacific Coast. The schemes of the Indian Ring were
not endorsed by Governor Weller, but were practically con-
demned in a public letter. The charges against the people
of Mariposa by tlie Superintendent of Indian Affairs were
absurd and grossly insulting to their intelligence. There
had been no assault upon the Indians, except that at King's
river, led by the hangers-on at one of his own agencies.
These men continued to be honored guests at the tables of
his employes, and one of his most vigorous assailants was
given employment that silenced him.

The estimates made by him in his letters and report, were
on an assumed probability of a renewal of Indian hostili-
ties. It was true, murders were occasionally committed by
them, but they were few as compared with those committed
by the Mexicans and Americans among themselves. The
estimate of a hundred thousand Indians in California, was
known by every intelligent man who had given the subject
' any attention, to be fabulous. There was probably not a fifth
of the number. But that was of no consequence, as the
schemes of the " Eing " wore successful. Large appropria-
tions were made by Congress in accordance with stipuia-

284 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

tions of the treaty made between these ignorant tribes, and
the Republic of the United States of America. The rec-
ommendations were generally carried out in Washington.

The making of a treaty of peace with Indian tribes, may
be correctly defined as procuring a release of all claims
of certain territory occupied by them. Congress may make
appropriations to provide for the promises made, but it is a
well known fact that these appropriations are largely ab-
sorbed by the agents of the government, without the pro-
visions being fulfilled. The defrauded victims of the treaty
are looked upon as pauper wards of a generous nationality;
and the lavish expenditure of the Government, is mostly
consumed by the harpies who hover around these objects of
national charity. This farce of making treaties with every
little tribe as a distinct nationality, is an absurdity which'
should long ago have been ended. With formal ceremony,
a treaty of peace is made with people occupying territory
under the jurisdiction of our national organization. A
governmental power is recognized in the patriarchal or
tribal representatives of these predatory bands, and all the
forms of a legal and national obligation are entered into,
only to be broken and rebroken, at the will of some suc-
ceeding administration.

An inherited possessive right of the Indians to certain
territory required for their use, is acknowledged, and should
be, b}" the Government, but to recognize this as a tribal or
national right, is but to continue and foster their instinctive
opposition to our Government, by concentrating and in-
flaming their native pride and arrogance.

The individual, and his responsibilities, become lost in
that of his tribe, and until that power is broken, and the in-
dividual is made to assume the responsibilities of a man,
there will be but little hope of improvement. The indi-
vidual is now scarcely recognized by the people (except he

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 285

be representative); he is but an integral number of a tribe.
He has a nationality without a country, and feels that his
people have no certain home. He knows that lie has been
pauperized by contact with the whites and the policy pur-
sued by the Government towards him, and he scorns, wliile
he accepts its bounty. These native-born residents of our
common country, are not citizens; their inherent rights are
not sufficiently protected, and, feeling this, they in turn,
disregard the law or set it at defiance. The best part of my
life has been spent upon the frontiers of civilization, where
ample opportunities have been afforded me to observe our
national injustice in assuming the guardiansliip and man-
agement of the Indian, without fulfilling the treaty stipula-
tions that afford him the necessary protection. The policy
of the Government has seemed to be to keep them under
restraint as animals, rather than of protective improvement
as rational human beings. What matters it, though the
National Government, by solemn treaty, pledges its faith to
their improvement, if its agents do not fulfill its obligations.
I am no blind worshipper of the romantic Indian, nor ad-
mirer of the real one; but his degraded condition of pauper-
ism, resulting from the mismanagement of our Indian
affairs, has often aroused in me an earnest sympathy for the
race. They are not deficient in brain-power, and they
should rise from degradation and want, if properly man-
aged. I am not classed as a radical reformer, but I would
like to see a raJical chano^e in their raana^j^ement.

I would like to see the experiment tried by the Govern-
ment and its agents of dealing justly with them, and strictly
upon honor. I would like to see those who have the man-
agement of Indian affairs selectea because ot their fitnese
for their positions, without making pi^litical or religious
considerations pre-requisitt, qualiricaiions. Mondity anc
strict integrity of character, should be indispensable re-

286 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

qnirements for official positions; but a division of patron-
age, or of Indian souls among the various religious sects or
churches, is contrary to the spirit, if not the letter, of our
Federal Constitution, and the strife this policy has already
engendered among the various sects, is not calculated to
impress even the savage with a very high estimate of Chris-
tian forbearance and virtue. The cardinal principles ot
Christianity should be taught the children by example,
while teaching them the necessity of obeying God's moral
and physical laws. I would like to see the Indian individ-
ually held responsible for all his acts, and as soon as may
be, all tribal relations and tribal accountability done away
with, and ignored by the Government.

The question of a transfer of the Indian Bureau to the
War Department, has been for some time agitated, but it
seems to me that some facts bearing on the subject have not
beea sufficiently discussed or understood. These are that
the various tribes are warlike in their habits and character,
and have been engaged in wars of conquest among them-
selves ever since they first became known to the white set-
tlers of the country. Their iTYimediate right to tlie territory
they now occupy is derived from the dispossession of some
other tribe. They recognize the lex talionis as supreme,
and their obedience to law and order among themselves is
only in proportion to their respect for the chief, or power
that controls them. Hence, for the Sioux and other unsub-
dued tribes, military control, in my opinion, would be best
suited to their war-like natures and roving habits. The ob-
jection that their management by the War Department had
proved a failure, is not a valid one, as when formerly the
Bureau was under its nominal control, all appointments ot
agents were n]ade from civil life, as political rewards from
those in power. The political kites, scenting the fat things
hidden away in the office of an agent, pounced down upon

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 287

tliera, exclaiming: "To the victors belong the spoils."
The title of "Major" given the agent was due to courtesy
and the legitimate pay afforded, being that of a major in
the army.

The duties of the office are anything but agreeable to an
officer who has been educated for the profession of a soldier.
Few are disposed to do the incessant drudgery required of
an effective agent. As a rule, the permanency of office, the
education and amour jpTojpre of military life, raises the army
officer above the temptations of the ordinary politician;
therefore, the chances oi an honest administration of affairs
are very much in favor of the War Department. To make
that management more effective, reasonable pay should be
given competent men, as the expenses of frontier life are
usually considerable. Years are required to comprehend
and order, a pi-actical m;iiiau:ement of people who are, in one
lense, but overgrown, vicious children. Such agents
should be retained as long as they remain honest and effec-
tive, rega^'dless of church or political creeds.

As the wild tribes recognize no authority but that of the
lex-talioneSj' by this law they should be governed. Any
attempt to govern or civilise them without the power to com-
pel obedience, will he looked upon hy harharians with de-
rision^ and all idea of Christianizing adult Indians, while
they realize the injustice done them by the whites, will
prove impracticable. The children may be brought under
some moderate system of compulsory education and labor,
but the adults never can be. Moral suasion is not com-
prehended as 2.power^ for the Indian's moral qualities seem
not to have been unfolded.

The savage is naturally vain, cruel and arrogant. He
boasts of his murders and robbmes, and the tortures of his
victims very much in the same manner that he recounts his
deeds of valor in battle, his prowess in killing the grizzly,

288 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

and his skill in entrapping the beaver. His treachery, is to
him but cunning, his revenge a holy obligation, and his re-
ligion but a superstitious fear. The Indians that have re-
sorted to labor as a means of future support, should be
encouraged and continued under the care of civilians.
Their religious instruction, like that of the whites, may
safely be left to their own choice; but for the wild savage
a just and humane control is necessary for their own well-
being, as well as that of the white people; for even in this
nineteenth century, life is sometimes sacrificed under some
religious delusion.

The war between different tribes is a natural result of
their efforts to maintain indejpendent sovereignties. The
motives that influence them are not very unlike those that
operate upon the most highly favored Christian nations^
except that religion, as a rule, has but little to answer for,
as they are mostly of one religious faith. All believe in the
influence of and communion with departed spirits. The
limited support afforded by the game of a given territory,
frequently compels encroachments that result in war. Am-
bition for fame and leadership prompts young aspirants for
the honors awarded to successful warriors, and they bear an
initiatory torture in order to prove their fortitude and
bravery, that would almost seem beyond human endurance.
After a reputation has been acquired as a successful leader,
old feuds must be maintained and new wars originated to
gratify and employ ambitious followers, or the glory and
influence of the successful chieftain will soon depart or be
given to some new aspirant for the leadership of the tribe.
In their warlike movements, as in all their private affairs,
their " medicine men " are important personages. They are
supposed to have power to propitiate evil spirits or exorcise
them. They assume the duties of physicians, orators and
advisers in their councils, and perform the official duties of

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 289

priests in their religious ceremonies. In my inquiries con-
cerning their religious faith, I have sometimes been sur-
prised, as well as amused, at the grotesque expressions used
in explanations of their crude ideas of theology. With their
mythology and traditions, would occasionally appear ex-
pressions evidently derived from the teachings of Christian-
ity, the origin of which, no doubt, might have been traced
to the old Missions. The fugitive converts from tliose Mis-
sions being the means of engrafting the Catholic element on
to the original belief of the mountain tribes. Their recita-
tions were a peculiar mixture, but they vehemently claimed
them as original, and as revealed to them by the Great
Spirit, through his mediums or prophets (their "medicine
men"), in visions and trances. These " mediums," in their
character of priests, are held in great veneration.

They are consulted upon all important occasions, let it be
of war, of the chase, plunder or of marriage. They pro-
vide charms and amulets to protect the wearer from the evil
influence of adverse spirits and the weapons of war, and
receive for these mighty favors donations corresponding to
the support afforded Christian priests and ministers. The
sanctification of these relics is performed by an elaborate
mysterious ceremony, the climax of which is performed in
secret by the priestly magnate. The older the relic, the
more sacred it becomes as an heirloom.

Marriage among the Indians is regarded from a business
standpoint. The preliminaries are usually arranged with
the parents, guardians and friends, by the patriarch of the
family, or the chief of the tribe. When an offer of mar-
riage is made, the priest is consulted, he generally desig-
nates the price to be paid for the bride. The squaws of
these mountain tribes are not generally voluptuous or ar-
dent, and notwithstanding their low and degraded condition,
19

290 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

they were naturally more virtuous, than has been generally
supposed.

Their government being largely patriarchal, the women
are subjects of the will of the patriarch in all domestic re-
lations. The result is, that they have become passively
submissive creatures of men's wilL Believing this to be
the natural sphere of their existence, they hold in contempt
one who performs menial labor, which they have been
tau2:ht belongs to their sex alone.

The habits of these mountain tribes being simple; their
animal passions not being stimulated by the condiments
and artilicial habits of civilized life; they, in their native
condition, closely resembled the higher order of animals in
pairing for offspring. The spring time is their season of
love. When the young clover blooms and the wild anise
throws its fragrance upon mountain and dell, then, in the
seclusion of the forest are formed those unions which among
the civilized races are sanctioned by the church and by the
laws of the country.

291a DISCOVERY OF THE YO SEMITE^

CHAPTER XYIII.

Murder of Starkey — Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his Band — A
few Surviving Murderers — An Attempt at Reformation — A Failure
and loss of a Mule — Murders of Robert D. Sevil and Robert Smith —
Alarm of the People— A False Alarm.

During the winter of 1852-3, Jesse Starkey and Mr.
Johnson, comrades of the Mariposa battalion and expert
hunters, were engaged in supplying miners along the Mari-
posa Creek with venison and bear meat. They were en-
camped on the head waters of the Chow-chilla and fear-
ing no danger, slept soundly in their encampment. They
had met Indians from time to time, who seemed friendly
enough, and even the few escaped Yosemites who recog-
nized Starkey, showed no sign of dislike; and hence no
proper precautions were taken against their treachery.

A few days only had passed in the occupation of hunting,
when a night attack was made upon the hunters. Starkey
was instantly killed, but Johnson, though wounded, es-
caped to Mariposa on one of their mules.

James M. Roan, Deputy Sheriff under Captain Boling,
took direction of the wounded man, and with a posse of
but 15 miners, went out to the Chow-chilla, where they
found the naked and mutilated remains of poor Starkey,
which they buried uncoffined at the camp.

After that sad duty was accomplished, the little party
of brave men pursued the trail of the savages into the
Snowy Mountains, where they were overtaken and given
merited chastisement. Three Indians fell dead at the
first fire, while others were wounded and died after-
wards.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 291

.No united effort was made to repel the whites, and
panic-stricken, the renegade robbers fled into their hidden
recesses. Cossom, an Indian implicated, confessed, long
uftervvards,that their loss in the attack was at least a dozen
killed and wounded, and that the robber murderers of
iStarkey were renegade Yosemite and other Indians who
had refused to live at the reservation. It was several
months after Mr. Roan's encounter with those Indians
before I learned the full particulars, and when any of the
remnants of the band of Yosemites appealed to me for
aid, I still gave them relief.

During the summer of 1853, Mr. E. G. Barton and myself
were engaged in trading and mining on the Merced. We
had established a station on the north side of the river, sev-
eral miles above the mouth of the "North Fork. We here
had the patronage of the miners on the river and its branches
above, as well as in our own vicinity, and from the North
Fork. From some of the miners who visited our store from
the vicinity of the South Fork, I learned that a short time
before, a small party of the Yosemities had come to their
diggings and asked for food and protection from their ene-
mies, who, they said, had killed their chief and most of
their people, and were pursuing themselves. The affrighted
and wounded wretches reported to them that they had been
attacked while in their houses by a large party of Monos
from the other side of the mountains, and that all of their
band had been killed except those who had asked protec-
tion.

The miners had allowed the Indians to camp near by, but
refused to give them any but a temporary supply of food.

Knowing that I was familiar with the Yalley, and ac-
quainted with the band, they asked mj advice as to what
they ought to do with their neighbors.

DISCOVERY OF TEE TOSEMITE,

Feeling some sympathy for the people who had made
their homes in the Yosemite, and thinking that I might
aid and induce them to work as miners, I sent them word
to come down to our store, as there were plenty of fish and
acorns near by. A few came, when I told them that if in
future they were good Indians^ the whites would protect
them from their enemies, and buy the^r gold. They ex-
pressed a willingness to work for food and clothing if they
could find gold.

I furnished them some tools to prospect, and they came
back sanguine of success. A Tu-ol-um-ne Indian named
*'Joe," and two or three families of Yosemities came
down and camped on Bull Creek and commenced to gather
acorns, while " Joe" as head miner, worked with the others
in the gulches and on the ITorth Fork. This experiment
of working and reforming robbers soon proved a failure,
for upon the death of one of them who had been injured,
they could not be induced to remain or work any longer,
and " Joe,'' and his new followers stampeded for the Retch-
Hetchy Yalley.

From these Indians, and subsequently from others, I
learned the following statements relative to the death of Old
Ten-ie-ya. After the murder of the French miners from
Coarse Gold Gulch, and his escape from Lieut. Moore, Ten-
ie-ya, with the larger part of his band, fled to the east side
of the Sierras. He and his people were kindly received by
the Monos and secreted until Moore left that locality and
returned to Fort Miller.

Ten-ie-ya was recognized, by the Mono tribe, as one of
their number, as he was born and lived among them until
his ambition made him a leader and founder of the Pai-Ute
colony in Ah-wah-ne. His history and warlike exploits
formed a part of the traditionary lore of the Monos. They
were proud of his successes and boasted of his descent from

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 293

their tribe, although Ten-ie-ya himself claimed that
his father was the chief of an independent people, whose an-
cestors were of a different race. Ten-ie-ja had, by his cun-
ning and sagacity in managing the deserters from other
tribes, who had sought his protection, maintained a reputa-
tion as a chief whose leadership was never disputed by his
followers, and who was the envy of the leaders of other
tribes. After his subjugation by the whites, he was de-
serted by his followers, and his supremacy was no longer
acknowledged by the neighboring tribes, who liad feared
rdtlier than respected him or the people of his band. Ten-
ie-ya and his refugee band were so hospitably received and
entertained by the Monos that they seemed in no hurry to
return to their valley.

According to custom with these mountaineers, a portion
of territory was given to them for their occupancy by con-
sent of the tribe; for individual right to territory is not
claimed, nor would it be tolerated. Ten-ie-ya staid with
the Monos until late in the summer or early autumn of
1853, when he and his people suddenly left the locality that
had been assigned to them, and returned to their haunts in
the Yosemite valley, with the intention of remaining there
unless again driven out by the whites. Permanent wig-
wams were constructed by the squaws, near the head of the
valley, among the rocks, not readily discernable to visitors.
Not long after Ten-ie-ya had re-established himself in his
old home, a party of his young men left on a secret forag-
ing expedition for the camp of the Monos, which was then
established at or near Mono Lake. According to the state-
ment made to me, there had just been a successful raid and
capture of horses by the Monos and Pai-Utes from some of
the Southern California ranchos, and Ten-ie-ya's men con-
eluded, rather than risk a raid on the white men, to steal from
the Mono's, trusting to their cunning to escape detection.

294 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

Ten-ie-ya's party succeeded in recajpturing a few of the
stolen horses, and after a circuitous and baffling route
through the pass at the head of the San Joaquin, finally
reached the valley with their spoils.

After a few days' delay, and thinking themselves secure,
they killed one or more of the liorses, and were in the en-
joyment of a grand feast in honor of their return, when tlic
Mono's pounced down upon them. Their gluttony seemed
to have rendered them oblivious of all danger to themselves,
and of the ingratitude by which the feast had been sup-
plied. Like sloths, they appear to have been asleep aftci-
having surfeited their appetites. They were surprised in
their wig-wams by the wronged and vengeful Monos and
before they could rally for the fight, the treacherous old
chief was struck down by the hand of a powerful young
Mono chief. Ten-ie-ya had been the principal object of at-
tack at the commencement of the assault, but he had held
the others at bay until discovered by the young chief, who
having exhausted his supply of arrows, seized a fragment
of rock and hurled it with such force as to crush the skull
of " the old grizzly." As Ten-ie-ya fell, other stones were
cast upon him by the attacking party, after the Pai-ute cus-
tom, until he was literally stoned to death. All but eight
of Ten-ie-ya's young braves were killed; these escaped
down the valley, and through the canon below.

The old men and women, who survived the first assault,
were permitted to escape from the valley. The young
women and children were made captives and taken across
the mountains to be held as slaves or drudges to their cap-
tors. I frequently entertained the visitors at our store on
the Merced with descriptions of the valley. The curiosity
of some of the miners was excited, and they proposed to
make a visit as soon as it could be made with safety.
I expressed the opinion that there would be but little dap-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 295

ger from Indians, as the Mono's and Pai-utes only came for
acorns, and tliat the Yo-sem-i-ties were so nearly destroj'^ed,
that at least, while they were mourning the loss of their
chief, and their people, no fear need be entertained of them.

Three of these miners, from the JSTorth Fork of the Merced,
visited the valley soon after this interview. These men
were from Michigan. Their glowing descriptions on their
return, induced five others from the North Fork to visit it
also. On their return trip they missed the trail that would
have taken them over the ridge to their own camp and kept
en down to the path which led to our establishment. While
partaking of our hospitalities, they discussed the incidents
of their excursion, and I was soon convinced that they had
been to the Yosemite. They spoke of the lower and the high
fall rather disparagingly, and expressed disappointment,
when told of the existence of cascades and cataracts, that
they had not known of or seen. I questioned them as to
Indians, and learned that they had not seen any on the trip,
but had seen deserted huts below the canon.

I learned soon after, from some miners from the mouth of
the " South Fork," that all of the Yosemites who had camped
on the flats below the canon, had left suddenly for the
Tuolumne. These two parties were the first white men that
visited the Yosemite Yalley after the visit of Lieut. Moore,
the year before (1852). The names of these miners have
now passed from my memory, but I afterwards met one of
these gentlemen at Mr. George W. Coulter's Hotel, in
Coultersville, and another at Big Oak Flat, and both seemed
well known to Lovely Kogers and other old residents. I
was shown, by the first party, some good specimens of gold
quartz that had been found on the north side of the Merced
below the canon. Late in the fall of this year ^1853j, three
of the remnant of Ten-ie-ya^s band came to our store. They
did not offer to trade, and when questioned, told me that they

296 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITB,

had been camping on the Tuolumne, and had come down to
the Merced to get some fish. I gave them some provisions,
and they left, apparently satisfied if not thankful. A few-
nights afterwards, one of our best mules disappeared. This
mule was a favorite mountain animal, sure footed and easy
gaited under the saddle. In following up its tracks, I dis-
covered that it had been stolen by Indians, and my sus-
picions were that my Yosemite friends were the culprits.
I made every efibrt to recover the animal, but without suc-
cess.

After the close of the mining season in the fall of 1853,
we left our trading establishment and mining works in
charge of two men in our employ, Eobt. D. Sevil, of
Smyrna, Delaware, and Robt. Smith, a Dane. The estab-
lishment was visited from time to time, by either Barton or
myself during the winter of 1853-54, when upon one occa-
sional visit, it was found by Mr. Barton to have been
plundered. With Nat. Harbert, a brave Texan, I at once
started for the establishment, only to find it a scene of des-
olation. I was informed by some miners who had been out
prospecting, that the body of Smith had been found on a
slaty point in the river below, but that nothing could be
discovered of Sevil, or the murderers. "We found the tracks
of Indians and traced them to the mountains, but failed to
find their hiding places. We lost their trail over the bare,
slaty ground above the river. The tracks had indicated to
us that Indians were the murderers, before we had learned
from the miners the circumstances connected with the find-
ing of Smith's body. It had been pierced by nine arrows,
five of which were still found quivering in his flesh. Upon
the discovery of the body by the miners, a burial party was
led by Doctor Porter, from the North Fork, to the scene of
the murders; and with the assistance of his associates, Mr.
Long, and others, it was given proper burial. The body of

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 297

Sevil was not found until long afterwards. Wlien discov-
ered, it was undistinguishable, but from the location in the
river, we had no doubt of its identity. I reported the
murders and robbery to the authorities of Mariposa county.
Captain Boling was sheriff; but having business that re-
quired his urgent attention, deputized me to act for him in
the matter. He expressed a decided belief that the mur-
ders had been committed by the Yosemities. He recom-
mended me to take a strong posse with me, and to be
cautious and guarded against treachery; saying: "You
know as well as I do, that all of the Yosemities are murder-
ers and thieves." In reply, I informed him of the killing
of Ten-ie-ya and nearly all of his band by the Monos; and
told him that I had ridden alone through the country wher-
ever business called me, and that whenever T had met any of
the old band they seemed quite friendly. The Captain said he
would not visit the valley without sufficient force to protect
himself. Upon telling him of the encampment on the
Tuolumne, Captain Boling said that was beyond his juris-
diction.

Mr. Harbert and myself concluded to make a thorough
exploration for the murderers, and with this object in view,
rode to Marble Springs, and commenced our search
along the Tuolumne divide, hoping to find some place where
the tracks would be found once more concentrated. After
a tiresome search, without success or encouragement, we
went down to the camp of the miners, on the North Fork,
to consult with them. We found old acquaintances among
these gentlemen, and Dr. Porter and Mr. Long were esj^ec-
ially hospitable. It was the opinion of these intelligent gen-
tlemen, that the murderers had gone to the Upper Tuo-
lumne river and were banded with the renegades of the
Tuolumne tribe that had once been under Ten-ie-ya. They
expressed the belief that not less than twenty men should

298 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

undertake an expedition against them. As the principal
articles stolen from our store were clothing and blankets, it
was supposed the murderers would probably be found near
some of the acorn caches in the mountain canons.

Feeling it would be useless to attempt anything further
without an authorized expedition, we left the ]N"orth Fork
and our hospitable friends, and at once returned to Mariposa,
where I reported to Sheriff Boling and Judge Bondurant
the result of our trip. These officials decided that the ter-
ritory which it would be necessary to explore, was not
within their jurisdiction. That they had no authority to
declare war against the Tuolumne Indians, but said that
they would report the circumstances of the murders and
robberies to the military authorities, to the Governor, and
to the officials of Tuolumne county. Here the matter
rested, and nothing more was ever done by public authority.
I was afterwards advised to put in a claim on the two hun-
dred and fifty thousand dollars voted by Congress for the
Indians of California; but after some consideration of this
advice, my conclusion was that the original claimants to
this money would scarcely be willing to make any division
of their legitimate spoils.

Although no action had been taken by the authorities,
the murders of Sevil and Smith soon became generally
known, and the inhabitants of Mariposa became alarmed
from the rumors in circulation, of another general out-
break. I visited the Fresno Agency and found that the
Indians there had heard of the raid on our establishment,
and, on interrogating them, they expressed the opinion that
the Yosemites were the ones who had murdered the men.
Their theory of the attack was, that they had first killed the
men for the sake of the clothing on their persons, and after-
wards had robbed the store of the clothing and blankets,
because they were cold in their mountain retreat, and yet

AND INDIAN JVAE OF 1851. 299

dared not live among other people. Some of these, at the
Fresno, said that if the whites would fit out an expedition,
they would go and helpM^ the murderers; "for," said they,
** those are bad Indians. They dare not visit the reserva-
tion, for we know that they would steal from us and the
white people, and then we would all be made to sniffer from
their misconduct. We are now afraid to leave the reserva-
tion to hunt, lest we be mistaken and killed for what they
have done."

I was convinced by my visit to the agency, that there was
no grounds for fear of another outbreak among the Indians.
I traveled about as I had usually done before. I was cau-
tious in out-of-the-way places, but I cannot say that I hesi-
tated at any time to prospect. When I heard people
express an opinion that it would be dangerous to enter the
Yosemite Yallcy without a strong escort, I refrained from
expressing my convictions. I felt unwilling to publicly
oppose the opinions of some of my late (;omrades, more
especially after my recent experience with the Yosemites.
During the summer of 1854 no visits were made to the
valley, as far as I know, and if there had been, I was so
situated as likely to have been acquainted with the fact.
Many of my old companions in the battalion, never shared
my admiration for the Yosemite. Their descriptions were
so common-place as to lead the people of the village of Mar-
iposa to suppose that, as a curiosity, the scenery would
scarcely repay the risk and labor of a visit. The murders
of Smith and Sevil deterred some who had designed to visit
the valley that season. The nervous ones were still further
alarmed by a general stampede of the miners on the South
Fork of the Merced, which occurred in the summer of that
year (1854). Tliis was caused by a visit to their neighbor-
hood of some Pai-Utes and Monos, from the east side of the
Sierras, who came to examine the prospects for the acorn-

300 DISCOVERY OF THE TOSEMITE,

harvest, and probably take back with them some they had
cached.

This visit of strange Indians to some of thie miners'
camps, was not at first understood and a wild alarm was
raised without a comprehension of the facts of the case.
Captain Boling, as sheriff, summoned to his aid a number
of the old members of his company. I was one of the
number. We made a night ride to the place of alarm, and
on arriving, found that we had been sold. "We felt cha-
grined, although it was gratifying to learn that alarm had
been made without a cause. An old '49er, that we found,
apologized for the v^erdants. He said : " Probably, as long
as men continue about as they now are, we must expect to

find fools in all communities; but, if a premium for d

fools should be offered by any responsible party, you will
see a bigger stampede from these diggings than these In-
dians have made." The whiskey was ordered for the old
stager, and the apology considered as acceptable. We re-
turned to Mariposa wiser, if not better men.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 301

OHAPTEK XIX.

Engineering a«nd History — Speculation and Discouraorement — A New
Deal— Wall Street— A Primitive Bridge— First Woman in the Yosem-
ite — Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San Fran-
cisco— Measurements of Heights — First Houses, and their Occupants
— A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast.

Although no visits were made during the year 1854 to
the Yosemite Yalley, it was at this time tliat the existence
of such a locality began to be generally known outside of
the limits of Mariposa county. Many of the inhabitants of
that county, however, were still incredulous of its beinij any
more remarkable than some other localities among the Sier-
ras. As a matter of early history, I will give a few details
of occurrences indirectly connected with the bringing of
this valley to the attention of the public as a wonderful
natural curiosity.

During the year 1854 an effort was made by a party of
engineers from Tuolumne county, to explore a route by
which water could be brought from the South Fork of the
Merced river into the "diy diggings." After a reconnois-
sance, the route was pronounced too expensive to be profit-
able, as the supply of water would be insufficient, unless
the ditch should be extended to the main river, which was
not considered practicable.

Notwithstanding this adverse report, the Mariposa
"Chronicle" continued to advocate the practicability of the
proposed plan, and made some effort to induce capitalists to
take an interest in the enterprise, claiming that like invest-

302 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ments had proved profitable in the northern mines. To test
the feasibility of such a project, Colonel Caruthers and
Angevine Key iiolds, tlien of Stockton, came up to explore and
ruD aline of levels over the route. They brought with them,
as engineer, Capt. Kiel, a practical surveyor, and a most ac-
complished mathematician. Captain Boling, having referred
these gentlemen to me as one most likely to aid in their
undertaking, and practically familiar with that part of the
country, I joined them in their enterprise. We started our
survey at the *'Snow Creek" divide. Col. Caruthers was
enthusiastic over the prospect of success, as we advanced,
but after rounding the point at '^ Devil's Gulch," and while
Mr. Reynolds and myself were establishing a flag station
on the opposite side, the Colonel collapsed and Ordered a
discontinuance of the survey.

Not feeling satisfied with this decision, Mr. Reynolds
and myself, mutually agreed to complete the survey. Rey-
nolds was a man of energy and indomitable perseverance.
He was the first to establish an express to the Southern
mines, and afterwards was for fourteen years successively
elected to responsible offices in Mariposa county. I handled
the instrument, and Mr. Reynolds acted as rodman. We
continued the line up, passed all real obstacles, and then
Captain Kiel, who was quite an old gentleman, completed
the survey and mapped oiit the route. During this survey,
Mr. Reynolds and myself crossed the South Fork and ex-
plored along the divide. We were within six or seven miles
of the Yosemite, but did not go to it. This was the only
year since its discovery^ that it was not visited hy white
men. No Indians were seen by our party, during the time
of this survey.

The next season, 1855, the survey began by Caruthers,
Reynolds and myself, was pushed with vigor, and although
the subject matter of extending the ditch to the main

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 303

stream was freely discussed and advocated by the Chronicle^
no action was taken. Up to this time, the Yosemite was
scarcely thought of by the generality of gold hunters and
denizens of Mariposa county ; that is, in connexion with its
stupendous clitFs and wonderful scenery. The solemn
grandeur of the locality, and the immensity of the rocks
which formed the sides of its inclosing walls, as well as its
lofty water-falls, were but barely noticed by Lt. Moore in his
report, to which allusion has been made in a previous chapter.
Lt. Moore made no measurements, nor attempted to give
any specific descriptions. He onl}'' stated unadorned facts
and practical impressions. These, however, had in 1854
gone out into the world, and the wonders of the place were
more generally known and appreciated by the literary and
scientific, than by those in its more immediate vicinity.
During the summer of 1855, Mr. J. M. Hutchings, editor
and publisher of " Hutchings' California Magazine," con-
ceived the idea of visiting the Calaveras " Big Trees " and
the Yosemite Yalley. As a literary man he was aware that
these objects of wonder and curiosity would provide many
interesting articles for his periodical. He engaged the ser-
vices of a well-known artist of San Francisco, Mr. Thomas
Ayres, to provide sketches for his descriptive articles. He
first visited "The Big Trees" of Calaveras; at Coulters-
ville and Horse Shoe Bend, Mr. Alex. Stair and Wesley
Millard joined his party. Mr. Hutchings' announcement
at Mariposa that he was on his way to visit " their loonder-
ful valley r was considered as an indifferent joke by some;
others, who had heard of it in connection with the " Indian
war," asked him if he was not afraid of the Indians; if it
was worth the risk to go there. Mr. Hutchings failed to
get much information from those of whom he made in-
quiries at Mariposa. He finally interviewed Captain Bol-
ing, who told him where he could procure a guide.

304: DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

In anticipation of meeting with iiumerons difficulties on
the way, or for other reasons, he hired two guides and
started for the valley. The difficulties of the journey
vanished as he approached. The excitement of the trip
made the party forgetful of the fatigue and roughness of
the mountain journey.

I met Stair and Millard, — who were especial friends of
mine, — not long after their return from this trip. They
were very enthusiastic on the subject of the Yosemite. The
enthusiastic descriptions given by the Hutchings party, on
its return, aroused the curiosity of the people, staggered the
skeptics, and silenced the croakers. Not long afterwards,
two parties visited it; one from Sherlocks and the other
from Mariposa. With the party from Sherlocks, were the
Mann brothers, who afterwards built a trail from Mariposa
to the valley. They commenced it in the fall of that year,
1855. Mr. Hutchings' publications and lithographic illus-
tration of the Yosemite, or highest fall, served to advertise
the attractions. From this period may be dated the com-
mencement of the visits of tourists. His influence has
aided materially in affording improved facilities of access to
it, and in providing for the comfort of visitors. The inter-
est growing out of Mr. Hutchings' visit to the Yosemite,
together with the rumored prospect that Fremont & Co.
were about to do something with the "Mariposa Estate,"
aroused the energy of local capitalists, and encouraged the
advent of settlers and miners. Another company was or-
ganized to bring water from the foot of the valley into the
" dry diggings." The limited supply from the South Fork,
it was thought, would be insufficient for the prospective de-
mand. Sufficient inducements having been offered to war-
rant the undertaking, Mr. George K. Peterson, an engineer
by profession, and myself, joined in making the necessary
survey. We leveled two lines down through the canon, be-

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 305

low the Yosemite, on to the divide of the South Fork. To
cross the South Fork without expending too much altitude,
we found a long tunnel would be required, besides a suspen-
sion of over 800 feet.

This, for a time, discouraged a continuance of the survey.
We returned to Mariposa and frankly reported the results
of our work and explained the difficulties of the route to
those who were most interested in the project. For certain
reasons it was deemed advisable to complete the survey be-
tween the branches of the river; when it was thought that
some equitable arrangement could be made witli the South
Fork Company for a union of interests in case of sale.
The Yosemite Company proposed to convey water over or
near the same route as the other, and also to supply Vater
to the miners on the north side of the Merced. By this
stroke of policy, it was supposed that a legal division of
water could be obtained, that the 'New Yorkers (Fremont &
Co.) would only be too glad to pay for. I did not feel san-
guine in the success of this scheme, and so expressed myself
My experience in the canon with Peterson taught me that
an equivalent in cash, which was offered for my services
(and which I accepted), was better than any speculative in-
terest in Sjpain^ or even New York. The survey was ac-
cordingly recommenced. Four of the company put up the
body of a house in the valley. This was the first house
ever erected there. It was of white cedar ^^ jpuncheons^''
plank split out of logs. The builders of it supposed that a
claim in the valley would doubly secure the water privil-
eges. We made this building our headquarters; covering
the roof with our tents. We continued work on this sur-
vey until late in November; and until the falling snow
rendered the hillside work most difficult; we then returned
to Mariposa.

During this survey, while exploring the dividing ridges of

20

306 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

the Merced river and the South Fork, our party ran on to
an encampment of the wretched Yosemites ; mostly old
men and women. They had gone out on the extreme south-
western point of the divide on the slope of the South Fork.

As Peterson planted liis instrument for an observation,
the Indians cried out in alarm, thinking no doubt that he
was aiming some infernal machine to destroy them. I ap-
proached to see if I could recognize any of them as those
who had visited our store, before the murders of our men.
I also scrutinized their clothing ; but their ragged garments
would not admit of even a surmise as to their quality or
pattern.

Although I failed to recognize our visitors among these
miserable people; it was quite evident that I was known
to them. I asked "who it was that had killed the men at
our store?" They at first pretended not to understand me ;
but seeing that they were not believed, one came forward,
and in a mixture of Spanish and Indian informed me that
it was the Tuolume Indians that were the criminals; while
they themselves (if not the cleanest) were certainly the best
Indians in the mountains. Upon being asked why they
were camped in such a place^without water, they said
they were at first afraid of our party and the glistening
instrument that had been aimed at them; but, that when
they saw we were measuring the ground, and marking the
trees, they were no longer alarmed, but were afraid of the
Monos, whom they said were still angry with them. I told
them that it was because of their treachery and dishonesty
that they had been made to suffer, and then left them in
their wretchedness.

Quite early in the next year (1856), the survey for the
water supply was recommenced under instructions from
Colonel Fremont, and, under direction of his chief engineer,
Mr. J. E. Clayton, Mr. Peterson was placed in charge of the

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 307

field-work. This work was executed with great care, as on
its accuracy the estimates depended. Thej were to be made
by a very eminent engineer of the Erie Canal, upon whose
report, it was supposed, Wall street would be governed.
Peterson engaged me as his assistant in this survey. Dur-
ing this season the Mann Brothers finished their trail to tlie
Yosemite, so that it was used by visitors. Hearing that
they had felled some immense trees and bridged the South
Fork, Mr. Peterson had hopes to reach the valley earlier in
the season by crossing the river at that place.

On reaching the South Fork, where we supposed the
bridge to be, we found that a large tree had been felled
across the stream with the design of forming the foundation
of a bridge, but it had fallen so low, or so near the water on
the opposite side, that a flood would be likely to sweep it
away, and it had, therefore, been abandoned. This was a
great disappointment to Mr. Peterson. As we could not
ford the stream, we would have to go into camp or wait for
the water to fall or go back, for the snow-clad ridges were
impassable. While Peterson was considering the matter,
I took an axe and sloped and notched the butt of the tree so
that I was able to get my horse, an intelligent animal, to
clamber up on the prostrate trunk; when, without difficulty,
I led him safely across and landed him on the other
side of the stream. We had two mules, whose natural tim-
idity caused them to hesitate before attempting to climb the
log, but their attachment for the horse, which they had seen
safely cross, with some per'suasion effected with a stout cadgel
counteracted their fears, and they too were safely led over.

The tree was about six feet in diameter. Its cork-like
bark afforded sure footing for the animals. Peterson —
very much pleased — pronounced this the most primitive
bridge ever crossed b}^ a pack-train, and declared that it
should be recorded as an original engineering feat.

308 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

While we were re-loading our animals the Mann Broth-
ers came down to us, as thej said to learn how we had
crossed the rushing torrent; and were surprised to hear that
we had utilized the tree abandoned bj them. They in-
formed us that the3^ were constructing a bridge further up
the stream, which would be ready for crossing in a week or
two. We found no further difficulty in reaching the val-
ley. Not long after we had gone into camp, and com
menced our survey again, visitors began to come into the
valley. Several gentlemen from San Francisco visited our
camp, one of whom I remember was the Rev, Doctor Spier, of
the Chinese Mission, in San Francisco. Mr. Peterson had,
upon my solicitation, " roded up " to the level of the Pohona
Fall, and made as accurate an estimate of the probable
height of El Capitan as could be done without the aid of
his transit. Mr. Peterson was therefore able to enlighten
some of the gentlemen from " the Bay," as to the approxi-
mate height of El Capitan and other prominent" objects.
Mr. Peterson afterwards made more accurate measurements
of heights.

I have no doubt that the four gentlemen referred to as liv-
ing in the valley, noticed in the note on page 18, in " Whit-
ney's Yosemite Guide Book," were of our party, who had
notified the public of their claim and intention to make
that their residence. The house erected, however, was
never honored with a roof, and the material of which it was
composed, soon disappeared, after we ceased to occupy it.
The difficulties developed by our survey, disheartened the
claimants. The claim rights, as well as the claim shanty
were alike abandoned.

The first white woman that ever visited the Yosemite
was a Madame Gautier, the housekeeper at the Franklin
House, Mariposa. A few days afterwards Mrs. Johnny
Neil, of Mariposa, and Mrs. Thompson, of Sherlocks, came

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 809

up. Their courage and endurance should certainly be made
a matter of record. The next ladies to visit the place were
of the party with Mr. Denman, of " Denman's High School,"
in San Francisco. After this it ceased to be a novelty to
see ladies in the Yosemite. Mr. Denraan published an ac-
count of his trip. His communication was a well written
and instructive article. It was the Jl7'st description that
gave the public any definite idea of the magnitude of the
scenery, or any accuracy of measurements of the heights of
the cliffs and water- falls. I was present when Mr. Peterson
gave to Mr. Denman the results of his observations, and
consequent estimate of heights. I was amused at Mr.
Denman's expressions of surprise, and his anxious but
polite inquiries of Mr. Peterson if he was sure his angles
had been correctly marked. Peterson colored slightly at
the doubt implied of his professional skill, but with unusual
politeness and apparent cheerfulness offered to make a re-
survey of El Capitan or any other prominent cliff that
Mr. Denman would select for measurement.

The offer was quickly accepted, and a new determination
of several points of interest were made.

From the notes taken, each of the gentlemen computed
ihe heights.

Mr. Peterson soon figured up the result of his work, and
^)atiently awaited the result of Mr. Denman's, before he an-
.\ounced his own.

After figuring for sometime, Mr. Denman expressed a
oelief thathe had made a grand mistake somewhere in his
calculations, for he had made tlie result more than the pre-
vious estimates and above all seeming probabilities. They
then compared figures and found but little difference in
their heights. Mr. Denman again worked up the notes,and
was convinced of their correctness and reported his con-
clusions in his descriptions. The first house erected in the

310 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

valley for the accommodation of visitors was commenced
in 1856, by Mr. Walworth and Mr. Hite. It was made of
"boards" rived out of pine logs. The site was that of
our old camp-ground of 1851, or a little above it, and nearly
opposite the Yosemite Fall.

The next season a blue canvas-covered building was put
up just above. In 1858, Mr. Beardsley joined with Mr.
Hite, and erected a wooden house. This was afterwards
kept by Mr. Peck, Mr. Longhurst, and after 1864, by Mr.
Hutchings. Other accommodations for the public were
also opened, a popular one of which was a house kept
by G. F. Leidig, known to tourists as Leidig's Hotel." The
first permanent resident, was J. C. Lamon, who made a
claim in the upper part of the valley in 1860, and who
occupied it both summer and winter for many years. The
other residents in the valley only remaining during the
season of tourists visits. Before hotel accommodations
were provided for the public, visitors to the valley carried
with them camp equipage and supplies according to the
necessities and inclinations of the parties interested.

In order to dispense with a retinue of camp followers, and
the expense of numerous employees, the duties of camp life
were ordinarily divided among the party, without regard to
wealth, rank, or station in life. It was usually made a point
of honor, to at least try to share in the necessary laborious
requirements of their associates; although the various
duties were not always assigned to the capacity of the
individual, or to his adaptation to the position. Tlie blunders
were as often sources of amusement, as serious inconven-
iences. As illustration, I will narrate an incident with a
party of excursionists in those early days.

By invitation, I met and accompanied a party from San
Francisco on a visit to the Yosemite. The gentlemen com-
posing the party, were Mv. Thomas Ayers, Mr, Forbes, of

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 311

the firm of Forbes & Babcock agents of Pacific Mail
S. S. Co.; Mr. Holladay, of same company; Mr. Easton,
of San Francisco, and Col. Riplj, of the Commodore
Perry expedition, who, I believe, afterwards became Gen-
eral Riply, Chief of Ordinance, U. S. A. Mr. Ayers was
the artist who accompanied Mr. Hntchings on his first visit
to the valley. He was the first to sketch any of the
scenery of the Yosemite. He was afterwards employed
in sketching by the Harpers, of New York. While so
employed, he was lost off the Farrilones Islands by the cap-
sizing of the schooner "Laura Beven." Mr. Ayers was a
gentleman in feeling and manners. His ingenuity and
adaptability to circumstances, with his uniform kindness
and good nature, made him the very soul of the party.

This party spent several days in the valley. On the last
day, it was proposed to have a grand dinner. To make the
event a memorable one, it was decided that each one should
have a representative dish of his owm individual prepara-
tion. We had a plentiful supply of canned meats, fruits,
etc., but it was proposed that our bill of fare should consist
of game and fish. Trout, grouse and quail, were then
tolerably abundant. To guard against a possibility of failure
to supply a full variety, Colonel Riply volunteered to pro-
vide a dish of beans of his own cooking, which he thought
he was prepared to furnish. The cooking of beans was
theoretically familiar to him, the Colonel said, from having
frequently observed the process among his soldiers. He
admitted that, practically, he had never tested the thiory,
but he felt confident that hew^ould not disgrace his position
as a soldier in the cooking of such a prominent army dish.
From my knowledge of their haunts, it was assigned to me
to provide the game, while Messrs. Easton, Ayers and Hol-
laday, engaged to supply the spread with trout. Mr. Forbes
engaged to perform the duty of supplying wood and water,

312 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITM,

— a verj important office, he claimed, the very foundation
of all our endeavors. I left tlie Colonel busy on his part of
the programme, and soon acquired a liberal supply of grouse
and quail.

As I came into camp from my hunt, my nostrils were
saluted with the smell of burnt beans. Mr. Forbes had sup-
plied the fire most liberally, and was resting from his la-
bors to the windward. I removed the kettle and inquired
for the Colonel. Mr. Forbes replied that " Col. Riply went
down where the fishermen are engaged, and has been gone
an hour or more; no doubt he has forgotten his beans." I
hastened to repair damages as far as I was able by removing
those not scorched from off the burnt ones. After scour-
ing the kettle with sand, I succeeded in getting them over
a slow fire before Col. Riply returned. He soon came
hurriedly into camp, and after taking a look at his cookery,
pronounced them all right, but said he had almost forgotten
that he was on duty as cook.

Observing that he was about to charge the kettle with an
undue proportion of salt pork, I again saved the beans,
this time from petrifaction, by remarking that their delicacy
would be enhanced by parboiling the pork.

"With my guardianship, the Colonel's dish was brought
on to the board in a very good condition for eating, and all
united in bestowing upon him unstinted praise for provid-
ing so palatable an addition to our feast. Col. Riply re-
gretted that he had not provided more^ but explained by
saying that he had supposed they would swell more while
cooking.

The secret of the hurnt heans, was known to all the oth-
ers, but was kept inviolate from the Colonel. He was un-
conscious of the joke, and bestowed more attention on this
standard IsTew England dish than he did upon the delicious
trout and game. Our dinner was finished in bumpers to
Colonel Riply as chef de cuisine.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. 313

During the survey of tlie year, in addition to measure-
ments, we gave some attention to the geological features
of the country we were passing over. We found that the
canon below the Yosemite is about six miles long, and so
tilled with vast granite bowlders and talus, that it is im-
possible for any but the agile and sure-footed to pass safely
through. The river has to be crossed and recrossed so many
times, by jumping from bowlder to bowlder, where the water
goes whirling and dashing between — that if the rocks be
moss-grown or slimy, as they may be outside of continuous
current — one's life is endangered. During our survey through
this canon, in the month of November, 1855, we failed to get
through in one day on our preliminary survey, and were
compelled to camp without food or blankets, only sheltered
from a storm — half snow, half rain — by an overhanging
rock. The pelting mountain storm put out our fires, as it
swept down the canon, and baffled all our attempts to kindle
a new flame.

The fall through the cafion is so great, that none but the
largest bowlders remain in the current. Some of these im-
mense rocks are so piled, one upon another, as to make falls
of nearly one hundred feet. The fall for the entire distance
is about fifteen hundred feet. Notwithstanding the fall is
so great in so sliort a distance, advantage may be taken of
the configuration of the walls on either side to construct a
railroad up through the canon into the valley, upon a grade
and trestle, that may be made practicable. This will, of
course, cost money, but it will probably be done. By tun-
neling the divide and spanning the South Fork with a
bridge, a narrow-gauge road could very readily be built
that would avoid the necessity of going entirely through
the canon. This could be accomplished most economically
by trestling over the talus — at a favorable point — high
enough to obtain and preserve a suitable grade, until the

314 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

sloping mountains below can be reached, when the line can
be run without difficulty to the most favorable point of
crossing the divide and the South Fork.

The obstructions from snow, encountered in a winter trip
to the vallej, would bj this route, be entirely avoided. Be-
side, the distance would be somewhat lessened. By rail and
stage it is now about 225 miles from San Francisco.

After emerging from the canon, with its precipitous
granite cliffs and water falls, the entire character of the river's
bed and banks are changed. The cliffs have now all disap-
peared with the granite, and although the steep high moun-
tain divides encroach hard upon the river; high bars or low
flats continue on down to the mouth of the South Fork on
one side or the other, and then the flats rise higher to the
plains.

The fall of the Merced river from the foot of the canon to
the valley of the San Joaquin, averages about thirty-five
feet to the mile as estimated by Mr. Peterson.

The outcroppings from the rocky divides below the canon,
are porphyritic, metamorphic, and trappean rocks, silicious
limestone, gneiss, green stone, quartz and several varieties
of slate. At a point on the left bank of the Merced, near
the plain, there is an outcropping of very good limestone,
and it is also found, at one point in the Yosemite.

The quartz lodes drained by the Merced river, especially
those of Marble Springs, Gentry's gulch and Maxwells creek,
bore a good reputation in early days; and as the drainage
may be made complete, no difficulty in working them need
be encountered. In some cases, the more prominent lodes,
maintain their general direction and thickness (seldom rich-
ness) on both sides of the Merced; as, for instance, the
celebrated Carson vein. This vein outcrops at the Pena
Blanca, near Coulters ville, and again south of the Merced
river, on a spur running down from Mount Bullion. Here

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 315

the vein is known as tlie Johnson Lode, and is divided into
the Pine Tree and Josephine sections. These were made
famous as the subject of a legal dispute, and were occupied
bv opposing and armed forces in the interest of "The
Merced Mining Company," on the one side, and Col. Fre-
mont and liis associates on the other.

This lode was discovered in the winter of 1850-'51, by a
progressive Virginia liberal, named B. F. Johnson, famil-
iarly known as " Quartz Johnson."

His discoveries led to the investment of millions of cap-
ital in mining enterprises, and if the share-holders of Mar-
iposa Stock have not yet realized upon their investments, it
cannot be for want of material ; but, I must return to my
subject. After having completed the survey of this year,
1856, and having interests at Marble Springs, I joined with
George W, Coulter, of Coultersville, and other citizens in
constructing what became known as '''The Coultersville Free
TraiV^ We thought the scheme advisable, but the ^'•general
^'w5Zt<? " thought the trail a little too progressive for the
wants of Coultersville, and the burden of construction was
left to be borne by a few. I never realized any return from
this investment. This trail was well located, and consider-
ing the amount expended, a comparatively easy one, for the
trip to and from the valley was made with comfortable ease.

The trail completed this year by the Mann brothers re-
quired greater labor, and was not as good a route, but the
views of the Yosemite from their trail, were the best. The
Mann brothers did not find theirs a paying investment. They
never realized their expenditures, and eventually sold the
trail at a loss.

In locating the Coultersville trail, little or no aid was
afforded me by the Indian trails that existed at that time;
for horses had not seemingly been taken into the valley on
the north side, and the foot trails used by the Indians left

316 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

no traces in the loose granite soil of the higher ridges, but
what were soon obliterated by the wash from the melting
snow. "Where trails were found, they had been purposely
run overground impassable to horses, and they were, conse-
quently, unavailable for our use. Through liberal aid from
the " Empire State Mining Company," located at their quartz
lode near the Marble Springs, Mr. Barton and myself had
built a wagon road from Coultersville to Bull Creek. This
road afforded a good commencement for the Yosemite trail.

The first encampment reached after leaving Bull creek,
was " Deer Flat," so named by us from having startled a
small drove, as we went into camp here. One of the deer
was shot, and afforded an addition to our camp supplies.

The next camp named was " Hazel Green," from the num-
ber of hazel bushes growing near a beautiful little meadow.

Our next move was to " Crane Flat." This name was
suggested by the shrill and startling cry of some sand-hill
cranes we surprised as they were resting on this elevated
table. Going from this camp, we came to what I finally
called " Tamarack Flat," although the appealing looks of
the grizzlies we met on their way through this pass to the
Tuolumne, caused me to hesitate before deciding upon the
final baptism; the Grizzlies did not stay to urge any claim,
and being affectionately drawn to the trees, we named the
camp " Tamarack Flat." From this flat I blazed out two
trails, the lower one for early, the upper for later use; as
from this point the snow remains upon the upper trail until
quite late; and although much nearer, the snow renders it
difficult to travel in the early part of the season. From
" Tamarack Flat" to the edge of the valley is but little
more than three miles. The whole distance from Coulters-
ville being 41^ miles as stated by Prof. "Whitney.

With but little fatigue to one accustomed to the saddle,
the trip down to Coultersville or to Mariposa was made in
a day.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 317

The wagon roads now opened, are calculated to avoid the
deep snow that delays the use of higher trails, or roads,
until later in the season; but one traveling by these routes,
loses some of the grandest views to be had of the High
Sierras and western ranges of hills and mountains; on tiie
old Coultersville Trail, or by way of the old Mariposa
Trail. In winter or early spring, in order to avoid the snow,
visitors are compelled to take the route of the lowest alti-
tude. The route by Hite's cove is called but thirty-two
miles from Mariposa to the valley; while that by Clark's, on
the South Fork, has been usually rated at about forty-two
miles. Where the time can be spared, I would suggest that
what is called "the round trip" be made; that is, go by
one route and return by another; and a " Grand Bound "
trip will include a visit to the " High Sierra:" going by one
divide and returning by anotlier.

As to guides and accommodating hosts, there will
always be found a sufficient number to meet the increasing
wants of the public, and the enterprise of these gentlemen
will suggest a ready means of becoming acquainted with
their visitors. Soon, no doubt, a railroad will be laid into
the valley, and when the " iron horse " shall have ridden
over all present obstacles, a new starting point for summer
tourists will be built up in the Yosemite; that the robust
lovers of nature may view the divine creations that will
have been lost to view in a Pullman. The exercise incident
to a summer lounge in the "High Sierras," will restore
one's vigor, and present new views to the eyes of the curi-
ous; while those with less time or strength at their disposal,
will content themselves with the beauties and pleasures of
the valley.

The passes and peaks named in Prof. Whitney's guide-
book are only the more prominent ones; for turn the eyes
along the course of the Sierra Nevada in a northerly or

318 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

eoutherly direction at the head of Tuolumhe, Merced, San
Joaquin, King's, Kah-we-ah or Kern rivers, and almost
countless peaks will be seen, little inferior in altitude to
those noted in his table.

The highest of these peaks, Mount Whitney, is, accord-
ing to Prof. Whitney, at least 200 feet higher than any
measured in the E-ocky Mountains by the topographers of
the Hayden survey. A writer in the Virginia (Nevada) ^n-
ierprise says: "Whitney stands a lordly creation amid a
rugged and grand company of companion peaks, for his
nearest neighbor. Mount Tyndall, rises 14,386 feet, and
Mount Kah-we-ah, but a few miles olF, is 14,000 feet."
Whitney affords " the widest horizon in America; a dome
of blue, immeasurable, vast sweeps of desert lowlands,
range on range of mighty mountains, grand and eloquent;
grace, strength, expansion, depth, breadth, height, all
blended in one grand and awful picture. And as the eye
takes in these features, a sense of soaring fills the mind,
and one seems a part of the very heavens whose lofty places
he pierces. The breadth and compass of the world grows
upon the mind as the mighty distances flow in upon the
view like waves of the sea. * * * * The best that
can be said or written but suggests; the eye alone can
lead the mind up to a true conception of so mighty and
marvelous a group of wonders."

It is true that one standing upon the dividing ridges of
the Ttio Grande, Arkansas, Colorado or Platte, is charmed
by the views presented of far reaching plains and noble
mountains, but it is doubtful if any one view can be found
in North America so grand and thrillingly sublime as may
he seen in the Sierra Nevadas. The scenery of the Yellow
Stone and of the Colorado canyon have characteristic won-
ders that are sui generis; but those localities are not desir-
able for continuous occupation.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 319

CHAPTER XX.

Golden Theories and Glaciers.

The many inquiries that the author has received con-
cerning liis views upon the gold deposits of California,
has induced him to add this chapter to his work.

It has been said by an earnest and astute observer, that
"The cooled earth permits us no longer to comprehend
the phenomena of the primitive creation, because the fire
which pervaded it is extinguished," and again that " There
is no great foundation (of truth), which does not repose
upon a legend." There has been a tradition among the
California Indians, that the Golden Gate was opened by
an earthquake, and that the waters that once covered the
great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin basins
were thus emptied into the ocean. This legendary geology
of the Indians is about as good and instructive as some
that has been taught by professors of the science, and as
scarcely any two professors of geology agree in their the-
ories of the origin and distribution of the gold in Cali-
fornia, I have thought it probable that a few unscientifie
views upon the subject will interest my readers.

The origin of the gold found in California seems to me
to have been clearly volcanic. The varying conditions
under which it is found may be accounted for by the vary-
ing heat and force of the upheaval, the different qualities
01 the matrix or quartz that carried the gold and tilled the

320 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

fissures of the veins or lodes, the influence that resistance
of the inclosing walls may have exerted when it was sliijht
or very great, and finally the disintegrating influences of
air, water, frost and attrition of the glaciers, and the depo-
sition in water.

The theories of aqueous deposit (in the lodes) and of elec-
trical action, do not satisfy my understanding, and I go
back in thought to the ten years of observation and practi-
cal experience in tlie gold mines, and to the problems that
were then but partially solved. Looking at California as it
is to-day, it will be conceded that its territory has been
subjected to distinct geological periods, and those periods
greatly varying in']tlieir force in difterent parts of the'State.
Within the principal gold-bearing region of California, and
especially along the Hue of or near the Carson vein or lode?
coarse gold has been found, and in such large masses, free
of quartz, as to force the conviction upon the mind that
the gold so found had been thrown out through and heyond
its matrix into a bed of volcanic ashes, very nearly assuming
the appearance that lead might assume when melted and
thrown in bulk upon an ash heap. Where the resistance
was great, as when thrown through wall rocks of gneiss, or
green stone, the liquefaction of the quartz seems to have
been more complete, and the specific gravity of the gold
being so much greater than that of the quartz, its momen-
tum, when in large quantities, carried it out beyond its ma-
trix, leaving the more diflfused particles to be held suspend-
ed in the fast cooling quartz, or to settle into *'pockets," or
small fissures.

Prof. Le Conte says: "The invariable association of
metaliferous veins with metamorphism demonstrates the
agency of heat." Experiments of Daubre and others prove
that water at 750° Fahr. reduces to a pasty condition nearly
all rocks. Deposits of silica in a gelatinous form, that

AND INDIAN WAR OF ISM. 321

hardens on cooling, may be seen at some of the geysers of
the Yellowstone; the heat; no doubt, being at a great depth.
Quartz, like glass and lava, cools rapidly externally when
exposed to air, or a cool surface, and would very readily
hold suspended any substance volatilized^ or crudely mixed
into its substance. Its difficult secondary fusion is no ob-
stacle to a belief in the capacity of heat under great press-
ure, to account for the phenomena that may be observed
in the gold mines. Ashes derived from lavas have been
found rich in crystalline substances. Crystals and micro-
liths, and pyrites in cubes are, no doubt, of volcanic origin.
The eruptions of moderate character seem to be the result
of igneous fusion, while those of an explosive type are prob-
ably aquae-igneous.

It is altogether probable from experiments tried by Stan-
islas Muenier and others, that the sudden removal of press-
ure is a sufficient cause of superheated water and mineral
substances flashing into steam and lava. The geysers are
evidently formed by varying temperature and interruption
of flow by removal of pressure. Mr. Fanques, in an article
in the Popular Science Monthly for August, 1880, says:
" Discovery of microliths enclosed in volcanic rocks is a
proof of immediate formation of crystals."

The phenomena attending the recent eruptions in Java
demonstrate the incredible force and chemical effects of su-
perheated steam. Modern researches and experiments in
mechanical and chemical forces have greatly modified the
views once entertained by geologists, and I think that it
will now be conceded that repeated volcanic disturbances,
taken in connection with the action of glaciers, will account
for most, if not all, the phenomena discoverable in the
gold fields and mountains of California. As a rule, gold-
bearing veins in clay or talcose slates have the gold more
evenly diffused than those found in the harder rocks, where
21

322 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

pockets of crystals, pyrites and gold will most likely be
found. If gold is found in seams or masses it will be very
free from impurities, and the quartz itself will be most
likely white and vitreous. When gold is found in or near
to a lode that has been decomposed, it will be found porous
and ragged, but if it has been deposited some distance from
its source it will be more or less rounded and swedged by
contact with the stones and gravel that were carried with
it by the stream of water or ice that conveyed it to its
placer. In the beds of the ancient and more modern rivers
the gold is much more worn than that found in the ravines
or gulches, and the coarser gold will be found at the bot-
tom, the scale gold in the gravel above, and the fine or
flour gold in the mixture of clay, gravel and sand nearer
the surface. The scale gold, no doubt, has been beaten by
repeated blows of stones brought in contact with it while
moving in the bed of the stream, and the flour gold is that
reduced by the continual attrition of the moving mass
upon the gold.

Prof Le Conte says: " There are in many parts of Cali-
fornia two systems of river beds — an old and a new. * *
The old, or dead, river system runs across the present drain-
age sj^stem in a direction far more southerly; this is es-
pecially true of northern members of the system. Farther
south the two systems are more nearly parallel, showing
less movement in that region. These old river beds are
filled with drift gravel, and often covered with lava.'' The
lava referred to is* relatively of modern origin, and the
molten streams have in many instances covered the ancient
streams, and in others cut them in twain. The " Blue Lead "
is a very old river bed that has been the principal source of
supply of the placer gold of the northern mines, and it
must have existed as a river long anterior to the more
m t.lern upheavals that disturbed its course by forming

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 323

mountain torrents to rend its barriers and cut across its
channel. That channel crosses some of the present tribu-
taries of the Sacramento and San Joaquin and contains
fossil remains of trees, plants and fruits not now indigenous
to California.

The well rounded boulders and pebbles found in the beds
of these ancient rivers render it probable that they were
of considerable length, and that they may have been the
channels of very ancient glaciers. It is also probable that
the region covered by glaciers at different epoclis is much
more extensive than has been generally supposed. To me
it appears probable, that during some of the eras of forma-
tion, thej^ may have stretched across the entire continent.
I have not space to give in detail the evidences of glacial
action, but will simply state that remains of glaciers may
be seen by an observing eye at intervals from the Atlantic
to the Pacific; in Minnesota and in the Rocky Mountains,
they are especially abundant. Prof. Le Con te says: "The
region now occupied by the Sierra range was a marginal
sea bottom, receiving abundant sediments from a continent
to the east. At the end of the Jurassic, this line of enor-
mously thick off-shore deposits yielded to horizontal thrust,
was crushed together and swollen up into the Sierra range.
All the ridges, peaks and canyons, all that constitutes the
grand scenery of these mountains are the result of an al-
most inconceivable subsequent erosion."

1 have no doubt of the truth of this theory of formation
as it relates to the Sierra Nevada ranges as they exist to-
day, for the intrusion of the granite into the slate forma-
tions suggests a force far greater than can be ascribed to vol-
canic action alone. The previous condition of the ^'conti-
nental mass" can not be so well imairined; yet reasoning
from what we know of the present condition of the Sierras we
may with propriety assume that great changes had occurred

324 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

in the territory embracing the Sierras TS'evada long prior
to their upheaval. The changes that have occurred since
are too abundant and enduring to require more than a ref-
erence to the localities. The "glacier pavements" of the
Sierras are so conspicuous that, as Mr. John Muir says:
"Even dogs and horses gaze wonderingly at the strange
brightness of the ground, and smell it, and place their feet
cautiously upon it, as if afraid of falling or sinking." These
glacier-smoothed rocks '*are simply flat or gently undu-
lating areas of solid granite which present the unchanged
surface upon which the ancient glaciers flowed, and are
found in the most perfect condition in the sub-alpine
region, at an elevation of from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. Some
are miles in extent, only interrupted by spots that have
given way to the weather, while the best preserved portions
are bright and stainless as the sky, reflecting the sunbeams
like glass, and shining as if polished every day, notwith-
standing they have been exposed to corroding rains, dew,
frost and snow for thousands of years."

This statement of Mr. Muir will especially apply to the
"glistening rocks" at the sources of the Merced and Tuo-
lumne rivers, in view on this trail through the Mono Pass.
The evidences of past glacial action in polishing the domes,
mountains and valleys above the Yosemite valley, are too
undeniable for controversy, but how much of the Yosemite
itself may have been produced by glacial action will proba-
bly always remain a theme for discussion among geolo-
gists.

Prof. Samuel Kneeland, the well known author of " Won-
ders of the Yosemite," in a letter to me upon the subject,
says: "I think there can be no doubt that the valley was
filled, and 1,000 feet above, by ice — that while the mass
above, moved, that in the valley, conforming to its configur-
ation, was comparatively stationary, lasting much longer

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 325

than the first, gradually melting to a lake, now represented
by the Merced river.

" I agree with Prof. Whitney that the valley was the re-
sult of a subsidence, long anterior to the glacial epoch, and
that the valley itself, except upon its edges and upper sides,
has not been materially modified by the glacier movement."
Prof. J. D. Whitney, in his geological report says: "The
Yosemite valley is a unique and wonderful locality; it is
an exceptional creation; * * * cliffs absolutely vertical,
like the upper portions of the Half Dome and El Capitan,
and of such immense height as these, are, so far as we
know, to be seen nowhere else. * * How has this unique
valley been formed, and what are the geological causes
which have produced its wonderful cliffs, and all the other
features which combine to make this locality so remark-
able? These questions we will endeavor to answer, as well
as our ability to pry into what went on in the deep-seated
regions of the earth in former geological ages will permit."
Mr. Whitney explicitly states his belief that most of the
great canyons and valleys have resulted from aqueous de-
nudation and erosion and cites the cutting through the
lava of Table Mountain at Abbey's Ferry on the Stanislaus
river as proof, and, continuing, to the exception, says: "It
is sufficient to look for a moment at the vertical faces of El
Capitan and the Bridal Yeil Rock turned down the valley,
or away from the direction in which the eroding forces
must have acted, to be able to say that aqueous erosion
could not have been the agent employed to do any such
work. * * Much less can it be supposed that the pecul-
iar form of the Yosemite is due to the erosive action of
ice. * * Besides, there is no reason to suppose, or at
least no proof, that glaciers have ever occupied the valley,
or any portion of it. * ^ So that this theory, based
on entire ignorance of the whole subject, may be dropped
without wasting any more time upon it.

326 DISCOVERY OF THE TOSEMITE,

" The theory of erosion not being admissible to account
for the formation of the Yosemite valley, we have to fall
back on some one of those movements of the earth's crust
to which the primal forms of mountain valleys are due.
The forces which have acted to produce valleys are complex
in their nature, and it is not easy to classify the forms, which
have resulted from them, in a satisfactory manner." After
describing the generally received theories of mountain and
valley formations, Mr. Whitney says; '* We conceive that,
during the process of upheaval of the Sierra, or possibly at
some time after that had taken place, there was at the Yo-
semite a subsidence of a limited area, marked by lines of
' fault ' or fissure crossing each other somewhat nearly at
right angles. In other and more simple language, the bot-
tom of the valley sank down to an unknown depth, owing
to its support being withdrawn from underneath, during
some of those convulsive movements which must have at-
tended the upheaval of so extensive and elevated a chain, no
matter how slow we may imagine the process to have been.
Subsidence over extensive areas of portions of the earth's
crust is not at all a new idea in geology, and there is
nothing in this peculiar application of it which need excite
surprise. It is the great amount of vertical displacement
for the small area implicated which makes this a peculiar
case; but it would not be easy to give any good reason why
such an exceptionable result should not be brought about
amid the complicated play of forces which the elevation of
a great mountain chain must set in motion. By the adop-
tion of the subsidence theory for the formation of the Yo-
semite, we are able to get over one difficulty which appears
insurmountable to any other. This is the very small
amount of debris at the base of the cliffs, and, even at a few
points, its entire absence." In the space allotted to this
chapter, I am able only to oiiote a i^^N passages from Prof.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 327

Whitney, but refer the curious to his recent work, " Cli-
matic Chancres of Later Geological Times."

In contrast to the conclusions arrived at by Prof. Whit-
ney, I extract from Prof. Le Conte's Elements of Geology,
pages 526 and 52T, the following: " 1st. During the epoch
spoken of (the glacial) a great glacier, receiving its tribu-
taries from Mount Hoffman, Cathedral Peaks, Mount Lyell
and Mount Clark groups, filled Yosemite valley, and
passed down Merced canyon. Tlie evidences are clear
everywhere, but especially in the upper valleys, where the
ice action lingered longest. 2nd. At tlie same time tribu-
taries from Mount Dana, Mono Pass, and Mount Lyell
met at the Tuolumne meadows to form an immense glacier
which, overflowing its bounds a little below Soda springs,
sent a branch down the Ten-ie-ya canyon to join the
Yosemite glacier, while the main current flowed down the
Tuolumne canyon and through the Hetch-Hetchy valley.
Knobs of granite 500 to 800 feet high, standing in its path-
way, were enveloped and swept over, and are now left
round and polished and scored in the most perfect manner.
This glacier was at least 40 miles long and 1,000 feet
thick, for its stranded lateral-moraines may be traced so
high along the slopes of the bounding mountains." In an
article by John Muir, published in the New York Tribune,
and kindly furnished me by Prof. Kneeland, will be seen
views difi'ering from those of Prof. Whitney, but Mr. Muir
has spent long years of stud}' upon the glacial summits of
the Sierras, and if an enthusiast, is certainly a close student
of nature. The paper was written to his friend Prof.
Kunkle, of Boston, who had views similar to his own.
Mr. Muir says: "I have been over my glacial territor}^,
and am surprised to find it so small and fragmentary. The
work of ancient ice which you and I explored, and which
we were going to christen ' Glacial System of the Merced '

328 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

is only a few tiny topmost branches of one tree, in a vast
glacial forest.

" All of the magnificent mountain truths that we read
together last Autumn are only beginning sentences in the
grand Sierra Nevada volume. The Merced ice basin was
bounded by the summits of the main range and by the
spurs which once reached to the summits, viz.: the Hoff-
man and Obelisk ranges. In this basin not one island ex-
isted; all of its highest peaks were washed and overflowed
by the ice — Starr King, South Dome and all. Vast ice
currents broke over into the Merced basin, and most of the
Tuolumne ice had to cross the great Tuolumne canyon.

" It is only the vastness of the glacial pathways of this
region that prevents their being seen and comprehended at
once. A scholar might be puzzled with the English alpha-
bet if it was written large enough, and, if each letter was
made up of many smaller ones. The beds of those vast ice
rivers are veiled with forests and a network of tiny water
channels. You will see by the above sketch that Yosemite
was completely overwhelmed with glaciers, and they did
not come squeezing, groping down to the main valley by
the narrow, angular, tortuous canyons of the Ten-ie-ya,
Nevada or South canyons, but they flowed grandly and
directly above all of its highest domes, like a steady wind,
while their lower currents went mazing and swedging down
in the crooking and dome-blocked channels of canyons.

"Glaciers have made every mountain form of this whole
region; even the summit mountains are only fragments of
their pre-glacial selves.

"Every summit wherein are laid the wombs of glaciers
is steeper on its north than its south side, because of the
depth and duration of sheltered glaciers, above those ex-
posed to the sun, and this steepness between the north and
south sides of summits is greater in the lower summits, as

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 329

those of the Obelisk group. This tells us a word of glacial
climate. Such mountains as Starr King, Cloud's Kest, and
Cathedral Peak do not come under this general law because
their contours were determined by the ice which flowed
about and above them, but even among these inter-basin
heights we frequently find marked difference of steepness
between their north and south sides, because many of the
higher of these mountains and crests extending east and
west, continued to shelter and nourish fragmentary gla-
cierets long after the death of the main trunk to which
they belonged.

" In ascending any of the principal streams of this re-
gion, lakes in all stages of decay are found in great abun-
dance, gradually becoming younger until we reach the al-
most countless gems of the summits with basins bright as
their crystal waters. Upon the Nevada and its branches,
there are not fewer than a hundred of these lakes, from a
mile to a hundred yards in diameter, with countless glis-
tening pondlets about the size of moons. Both the Yo-
semite and the Hetch-Hetchy valleys are lake basins filled
with sand and the matter of morains easily and rapidly sup-
plied by their swift descending rivers from upper morains.
The mountains above Yosemite have scarce been touched
by any other denudation but that of ice. Perhaps all of
the post glacial denudation of every kind would not average
an inch in depth for the whole region.

" I am surprised to find that water has had so little to do
with the mountain structure of this region. None of the
upper Merced streams give record of floods greater than
those of to-day. The small water channel, with perpendic-
ular walls, is about two feet in depth a few miles above the
Little Yosemite. The Nevada here, even in flood, never
was more than four or five feet in depth. Glacial striae and
glacial drift, undisturbed on banks of streams but little

330 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

above the present line of high water mark, is sufficient
proof."

The views entertained by Mr. Muir are, for the most
part, in consonance with my own. That the valley was
originally formed as supposed by Prof. Whitney I do not
doubt, but to suppose that the vast bodies of ice, stated by
Mr. Whitney to have existed at the sources of the Merced
river, could have halted in their glacial flow down the steep
declivities of its canyons, seems as absurd as to suppose
one entertaining opposite views *' ignorant of the whole
subject." As a matter susceptible of eternal proof, I will
state that in the canyon below the Yosemite there are ex-
isting to-day, large, well rounded bowlders that I think a
geologist would say had been brought from above the valley;
and if so, water alone could scarcely have brought them
over the sunken bed of the valley, or if filled to its present
level of about thirty-five feet descent to the mile, the laws
that govern aqueous deposits would have left those huge
masses of rock far above their present location in the can-
yon. Some of the bowlders referred to will weigh twenty
tons or more, and, in connection with flat or partially
rounded rocks fallen, probably, from the adjacent clifi', form
waterfalls in the middle of the canyon, of from fifty to one
hundred feet of perpendicular height. The fall through
the canyon averages over two hundred feet to the mile.
Well rounded bowlders of granite and other hard stones
may be seen for long distances below the Yosemite, on hill-
sides and flats far above the present bed of the river, and,
in some instances, deposited with those bowlders, have
been found well rounded and swedged masses of gold. The
experiments and observations of Agassiz, Forbes and others,
render it probable that the valley of the Yosemite was filled
with ice, but that the upper surface moved more rapidly,
carrying down most of the material brought from mountains

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. 331

above the vallej. The observations of Prof. Tyndall ren-
der it almost certain that a glacier does not move as a rigid
mass or on its bed, but as a plastic substance, as asphalt for
instance.

Partial liquefaction by pressure would enable a glacier
in the Yosemite to conform to the inequalities of its con-
figuration, and regelation would perhaps retard its flow
sufficiently to enable the more rapid moving surface and
center of the glacier to carr}^ its burden on from above
without marking the lower portion of the inclosing walls,
as for instance, may be seen at Glacier Point. It has been
suggested that "the immense weight of ice that once filled
the Yosemite had an important part in the formation of it."
This idea is untenable, because the valley must have
already been formed, in order for space to have exist d for
"the immense weight of ice;" and unless the earth's crust
under the valley was previously broken as suggested in the
able theory of Prof. Whitney, no possible weight of any
kind could exert a depressing influence upon the surface.

If it were possible, for the reconciliation of geologists,
to believe that the subsidence in the valley occurred at
about the close of the glacial flow, thereby changing the
appearace of the inclosing walls, yet still leaving material
to fill the chasm, a great part of the mystery that will al-
ways remain as one of the " Wonders of the Yosemite,"
would then disappear. As it is, we are compelled to be-
lieve, not in miracles, but that the glacier that flowed over
the Yosemite was so great in depth as to leave, like some
deep sea or ocean, its bottom undisturbed by the tumultu-
ous aeriel strife upon its surface.

Now, those glacial heights have, at times, a solitude un-
utterly profound! iNot a bird or beast to break the still-
ness, nor disturb the solemn charm. !N'or does the Indian,
even, loiter on his way, but hastens on down to his mount-

332 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

ain meadows or wooded valleys. There, if anywhere, the
poet's idea can be realized, that:

" Silence is the heart of all things; sound the fluttering of its pulse,
Which the fever and the spasm of the universe convulse.
Every sound that breaks the silence only makes it more profound,
Like a crash of deafening thunder in the sweet, blue stillness drowned
Let thy soul walk softly in thee, as a saint in heaven unshod.
For to be alone with silence, is to be alone with God."

TJIG TEEE
(Height, 325 feet; circumlereuce.

100 feet.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. ZZ\

CHAPTER XXT.

Big Trees of ^^^lifornia or Sequoia Gigantea— Their Discovery and
Classification.

In speaking of the discovery of the ''Big Trees'''' of Cala-
varas, Mr. Hutcliings, in his " Scenes of Wonder and Curios-
ity," says that: " In the spring of 1852 Mr. A. T. Doud, a
hunter, was employed by the Union Water Company of
Murphy's camp, Calavaras county, to supply the workmen
with fresh meat from the large quantity of game running
wild on the upper portion of their works. Having wound-
ed a bear, and while industriously following in pursuit, he
suddenly came upon one of those immense trees that have
since become so justly celebrated throughout the civilized
world.

" So incredulous were Doud's employers and compan-
ions, when told of his discovery, that a ruse had to be resort-
ed to, to get men to go and view the trees."

Big trees in Mariposa county, were first discovered by
Maj. Burney, of ]N^orth Carolina, first sheriff of Mariposa
county (after its organization), John Macauly of Defiance,
Ohio, and two others, whose names I have now forgotten.
The discovery was made in the latter part of October, 1849,
while in pursuit of some animals stolen by the Indians.

The trees seen and described by Major Burney and his
party, were only a few scattering ones on the Fresno and
South Fork divide. The major sj oke of the trees as a new

334 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

variety of cedar, and when he gave the measurements that
he claimed the party had made with tlieir picket-ropes tied
together, his auditors thought he was endeavoring to match
some " big yarns " told around our camp fire at the mouth
of the Merced river. Afterwards, while sheriff, the Major
indicated the locality and size of the trees, in reply to some
one's description of the big yellow pine that lay prostrate on
what became the Yosemite trail, and when rallied a little
for his extravagance of statement, declared that though true,
he should not speak of the big trees again, for it was un-
pleasant to be considered an habitual joker, or something
worse.

I asked tlie major, seriously, about the trees he had de-
scribed, and he as seriously replied that he measured the
trees as stated, but did not regard them as very remarkable,
for he had seen accounts of even taller ones, if not larger,
that were growing in Oregon.* In referring to these large
trees, they were spoken of as being on the ridge known to
us afterwards as the Black Hidge. The big trees of the
Kah-we-ah and Tu-le river regions, were first noticed by a
party of miners returning from the " White River''^ excite-
ment of 1854, but as these men were uncultured, and the
Calavaras grove was already known, no notice was taken by
"J7i6 /^^^55" of the reports of these miners, who were re-
garded by their friends as entirely truthful.

It has been thought strange that no member of the
" Mariposa battalion" should have discovered any of the
big trees, but they did not.

Among forests of such very large pines, cedar and fir trees,
as grow adjacent to and among the sequoia, an unusually
large tree would not probably have attracted much attention.
Had a grove of them, however, been discovered, the fact
would have been spoken of in the battalion. As the species
was not known to any of us at the time, even had any been

* See Gen. John Bidwell's account in Century magazine for Nov. 1890.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851

seen, and even the pendant character of their branches
noticed, doubtless they would have been classed and spoken
of as " cedar J^ I do not believe, however, that any of the
battalion ever noticed these trees, for the reason that strict
orders were given against straggling, and our explorations
were, for the most part, in the mountains above the line of
growth of the sequoia. While hunting for game, during
our first expeditions, the depth of snow forced the hunt be-
low.

A few of the Mariposa big trees were first brought into
notice bv the discoveries of Mr. Hogg in the summer of
1855. The year previous, Mr. Hogg was in the employ of
Reynolds, Caruthers and myself, and proving an able assis-
tant and expert hunter, he was employed by our successors,
the " South Fork Ditch Company," to supply them with
game. During one of his hunting expeditions, Mr. Hogg
discovered sonje sequoia on a branch of " Big Creek," and
relating his discoveries to Mr. Galen Clark, Mr. Mann and
others, the exact locality was indicated, and became known.
During the autumn of this year (1855), other trees were
discovered by Mr. J. E. Clayton, while exploring and test-
ing, by barometrical measurements, the practicability of
bringing water from the branches of the San Joaquin to
increase the supply from the South Fork of the Merced.
Upon Mr. Clayton's second visit, a few days later, I accom-
panied him, and was shown his discoveries.

About the first of June, 1856, Galen Clark and Milton
Mann discovered what has now becom 3 famous as the " Mar-
iposa Grove." The next season Mr. Clark came upon two
smaller groves of sequoia in the near vicinity of the big
grove. Kot long after, he discovered quite a large collec-
tion at the head of the Fresno. This grove was visited two
days after its discovery by L. A. Holmes, of the " Mariposa
Gazette," and Judge Fitzhugh, while hunting; and after-

336 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

wards bj Mr. Hutchings in 1859, accompanied by the dis-
coverer, Mr. Clark.

The groves of big trees on the North and South Tule
rivers, said to contain thousands, were discovered in 1867,
by Mr. D'Henreuse, of the State Geological Survey. From
the foregoing statement concerning the Sequoia, or Big
Trees, and the well known fact of their easy propagation
and distribution over the whole civilized world, it is no
longer feared that the species is in any immediate danger
of becoming extinct.

Upon the tributaries of the Kah-we-ali river, these trees
are converted by the mills into lumber, which is sold about
as cheap as pine. The lumber is much like the famous
red-wood of California, and is equally durable, though per-
haps not so easily worked. Although of the same genus as
the red-wood, the species is distinct, the " Big Trees " being
known as the Sequoia Gigantea, while the California red-
wood is known as the Sequoia Sempervirens. This state-
ment may seem unnecessary to the botanist, but the two
species are so frequently confounded in respectable eastern
periodicals, that the statement here is deemed proper. Be-
sides this, absurd fears have been expressed by tliose unin-
formed of the facility with which these trees have been cul-
tivated in Europe and in this country, that the species will
soon become extinct.* Professor Whitney says: "It is as-
tonishing how little that is really reliable is to be found in
all that has been published about big trees. ^NTo correct
statement of their distribution or dimensions has appeared
in print; and if their age has been correctly stated in one
or two scientific journals, no such information ever finds its
way into the popular descriptions of this tree, which are
repeated over and over again in contributions to newspapers
and in books of travel. * * * * ^ ]^o other plant
ever attracted so much attention or attained such a celebrity

* Most o. the Big Trees of Tulare County are within the new "Sequoia Park."

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 337

within 80 short a period. * « « ♦ ♦ geed were first
sent to Europe and to the Eastern States in 1853, and since
that time immense numbers have found their way to
market. They germinate readily, and it is probable that
hundreds of tliousands of tlie trees (millions it is said) are
growing in diiferent parts of the world from seed planted.
They flourish with peculiar hixuriance in Great Britain,
and grow with extraordinary rapidity. ***** The
genus were named in honor of Sequoia or Sequoyah, a
Cherokee Indian of mixed blood, better known as George
Guess, who is supposed to have been born about 1770, and
who lived in Wills Yalley, in the extreme northeastern
part of Alabama, among the Cherokees. He became known
to the world by his invention of an alphabet and written
language for his tribe. *****

The big tree is extremely limited in its range, even more
80 than its twin brother, the red-wood. The latter is strictly
a coast-range or sea-board tree; the other, inland or exclu-
sively limited to the Sierra. Both trees are also peculiarly
Calfornian, A very few of the red-wood may be found
just across the border in Oregon, but the big tree has never
been found outside of California, and probably never will
be." In a note Prof. Whitney says:

" There are several fossil species of the genus sequoia.^^
Also, "that the Calavaras Grove contains, as will be seen
in the table on page 125 (Whitney's Yosemite Guide Book),
four trees over 300 feet high, the highest one measured in
the Mariposa Grove being 272 feet. The published state-
ments of the heights of these trees are considerably exag-
gerated, as will be noticed, but our measurements can be
relied on as being correct. The Keystone State has the
honor of standing at the head, with 325 feet as its elevation,
and this is the tallest tree yet measured on this continent,
80 far as our information goes."
22

338 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

"When we observe how regularly and gradually the trees
diminish in size from the highest down, it will be evident
that the stories told of trees having once stood in this grove
over 400 feet in height, are not entitled to credence. It is
not at all likely that any one tree should have overtopped all
the others by seventy-five feet or more. The same condi-
tion of general average elevation and absence of trees very
much taller than any of the rest in the grove will be noticed
among the trees on the Mariposa grant, where, however,
there is no one as high as 300 feet."

The average height of the Mariposa trees is less than that
of the Calavaras Grove, while the circumference of the
largest is greater. Prof. Whitney measured the annual
growths of one of the largest of the Calavaras group that had
been felled, which he made out to be only about 1,300
years old. The Professor says:

"The age of the big trees is not so great as that assigned
by the highest authorities to some of the English yews.
Neither is its height as great, by far, as that of an Austral-
ian species, the eucalyptus amygdalina, many of which
have, on the authority of Dr. Miiller, the eminent govern-
ment botanist, been found to measure over 400 feet; one, in-
deed, reaches the enormous elevation of 480 feet, thus over-
topping the tallest sequoia by 155 feet.

"There are also trees which exceed the big trees in diame-
eter, as, for instance, the baobab (adansonia digitata), but
this species is always comparatively low, not exceeding
sixty or seventy feet in height, and much swollen at thQ

Mr. Whitney concludes his chapter on the sequoia by
saying:

" On the whole, it may be stated, that there is no known
tree which approaches the sequoia in grandeur; thickness
and height being both taken into consideration, unless it be

RID

ING TUKOUGII THE TKEE TllUNK.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 339

the eucalyptus. The largest Australian tree jet reported ,
is said to be eight j-oiie feet in circumference at four feet
from the ground. This is nearly, but not quite, as large as
some of the largest of the big trees of California."

Prof. Whitney gives the measurement of the largest tree
in the Mariposa Grove as ninety- three feet seven inches, at
the ground, and sixty-four feet three inches at eleven feet
above. This tree is known as the "Grizzly Giant;" its two
diameters were, at the base, as near as could be measured,
thirty and thirty-one feet. This tree has been very much
injured by fire, no allowance for wliich was made. It is
probable that could the tree — and others like it — have
escaped the fires set by the Indians, to facilitate the gather-
ing of their annual supplies and the pursuit of game, exact
measurements would show a circumferenceof over 100 feet.
But, even as large as it is, its size does not at once impress
itself upon the understanding.

Tiiere are nine or ten separate groves of " Big Trees," in
California, and all lie upon the western slopes of the Sierra
Nevada at an altitude of from five to seven thousand feet
above the sea. Mr. A. B. Whitehall has given a very in-
teresting account of these in the Chicago Tribune., from
which I extract such portions as will best serve to interest
my readers.

''The wood is soft, light, elastic, straight grained, and
looks like cedar. The bark is deeply corrugated, longitudi-
nally, and so spongy as to be used for pin cushions. The
branches seldom appear below 100 feet from the ground,
and shoot out in every direction from the trunk. The
leaves are of two kinds — those of the younger trees and the
■ lower branches of the larger set in pairs opposite each other
on little stems, and those growing on branches which have
flowered, triangular in shape, and lying close down to the
stem. The cones are remarkable for their diminutive size,

340 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

being not much larger than a hen's q^^^ while the cones of
much smaller conifers are larger than pine-apples. The
seeds are short and thin as paper. * * * The magnif-
icent proportions of the trees and the awful solitude of the
forest gives an almost sublime grandeur to this part of the
Sierra. The Tuolumne grove is situated almost due north
of the Merced, and is on the Big Oak Flat trail to the Yo-
semite. There are about thirt}^ trees in the group, and
they are excellent representatives of the sequoia family.
The Siamese Twins, growing from the same root and uniting
a few feet above the base, are thirty-eight feet in diameter
and 114 feet in circumference at the base. A unique piece
of road making is here seen. In the construction of the
highway for coaches and wagons to the Yosemite, the en-
gineers suddenly found themselves face to face with one of
these monster trees, and not choosing to build around it,
they cut through it, thus forming a tunnel, the like of
which can only be found in the Mariposa grove. .The
diameter of the tree being over thirty feet, there remained
an abundance of material on each side of the cut to retain
the tree in a standing position, and the hole ten feet high
and twelve feet wide is sufficiently large to allow the pas-
sage of any coach or team."

"In the South Park and Calaveras groves there are some
remarkable trees. One tree in the South Park grove will
hold forty persons in the hollow of its trunk; another has
sheltered sixteen horses. The four highest trees in the
Calaveras grove, are the Keystone State, 325 feet high,
Gen. Jackson, 319 feet, Mother of the Forest, 315 feet, and
the Daniel Webster of 307 feet high. The Husband and
Wife are a pair of trees gracefully leaning against each
other, 250 feet high, and each sixty feet in circumference.
The Hermit is a solitary specimen of great proportions;
the Old Maid, a disconsolate looking spinster, fifty-nine

l:^

THE TUNNELLED TREE.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 341

feet around, and tlie Old Bachelor, a rough, unkempt old
fellow nearly 300 feet in height. The Father of tlie
Forest is prostrate, hollow, limbless and without bark;
yet across the roots the distance is twenty -eiglit feet. * *
Into the tree a tourist can ride ninety feet on horseback.
One of the largest trees of the Calaveras grove was bored
down with pump augurs, and the stump smoothed off and
converted into a floor of a dancing hall. Thirty-two per-
sons, or four quadrille sets, have ample room to dance at
one time, and yet leave room for musicians and spectators."
I can give my readers no better idea of the solemn im-
mensity of the trees, than by again quoting Mr. Whitehall.
He says in conclusion: "Although it was then June, yet
the eternal snows of the mountains were everj'where around
us, and, as the huge banks and drifts stretched away off in
the distance, the melting power of heat and the elements
was on every side defied. Not a weed or blade of grass re-
lieved the monotony of the view; not the chirping of an
insect or the twittering of a bird was heard. The solemn
stillness of the night added a weird grandeur to the scene.
Now and then a breath of wind stirred the topmost branches
of the pines and cedars, and as they swayed to and fro in
the air the music was like that of Ossian, * pleasant but
mournful to the soul.' There were sequoias on every side
almost twice as hio^h as the falls of Niao^ara; there were
pines rivaling the dome of the capitol at Washington in
grandeur; there were cedars to whose tops the monument
of Bunker Hill would not have reached. There were trees
which were in the full vigor of manhood before America
itself was discovered; there were others which were yet old
before Charlemagne was born ; there were others still grow-
ing when the Savior himself was on the earth. There were
trees which had witnessed the winds and storms of twenty
centuries; there were others which would endure long after

342 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,

countless generations of the future would be numbered
with the past. There were trees crooked and short and
massive; there were others straight and tall and slender.
There were pines whose limbs were as evenly proportioned
as those of tlie Apollo Belvedere; there were cedars whose
beauty was not surpassed in their counterparts in Lebanon;
there were firs whose graceful foliage was like the fabled
locks of the gods of ancient story. It was a picture in nat-
ure which captivated the sense at once by its grandeur and
extent; and, as we drove back to Clark's through six miles
of this forest luxuriance, with the darkness falling about us
like a black curtain from the heavens, and the mighty can-
yons of the Sierra sinking away from our pathway like the
openings to another world, then it was not power, but
majesty, not beauty but sublimity, not the natural but the
supernatural, which seemed above us and before us."

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1^51. 343

CHAPTEK yXII.

statistics — Roads and Accommodations — Chapel and Sunday School —
Big Farms and Great Resources— A Variety of Products — Long Hoped
for Results

Kecords of the number of visitors to the Yosemite down
to and inclusive of 1875, show that in 1852 Rose and Shur-
ban were murdered by the savages, while their companion,
Tudor, though wounded, escaped. The next year, 1853,
eight men from the North Fork of the Merced, visited the
valley, returning unharmed. Owing to murders of Starkey,
Sevil and Smith, in the winter of 1853-'4, as it was believed,
by the Yosemites, no visitors entered the valley during the
summer of 1854. In 1855 Messrs. Hutchings, Ayers, Stair
and Milliard,visited it without being disturbed by the sight
of any of the original proprietors, either Indians or grizzlies.
Mr. Hutchino^s, on his return to San Francisco, beo^an to
draw the attention of the public to the Yosemite, through
his magazine and otherwise. Notwithstanding the ample
means afforded by his magazine, and his facilities as a
writer, Mr. Hutchings found it difficult to bring the valley
into prominent and profitable notice, and few Californians

344 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

could be induced to make it a visit. A peculiarity of those
days was a doubt of the marvelous, and a fear of being
'^soldy Anj statements of travelers or of the press, that
appeared exaggerated, were received bj the public with ex-
treme caution. Not more than twenty-five or thirty
entered during that year, though Mr. Hutchings' efforts
were seconded by reports of other visitors.

The following season, 1856, it was visited by ladies from
Mariposa and San Francisco, who safely enjoyed the
pleasures and inconveniences of the trip; aroused and ex-
cited to the venture, no doubt, by their traditional curiosity.
The fact being published that ladies could safely enter the
valley, lessened the dread of Indians and grizzlies, and after
a few hrave reports had been published, this fear seemed to
die away completely.

From this time on to 1864, a few entered every season ;
but during these times California had a wonder and interest
in its population and their enterprises, greater than in any
of its remarkable scenery. Everything was at higli pressure,
and the affairs of business and the war for the Union were
all that could excite the common interest. In 1864, there
were only 147 visitors, including men, women and children.
The action of Congress this year, in setting the Yosemite
and big trees apart from the public domain as national
parks, attracted attention to them. The publicity given to
the valley by this act, was world-wide, and since 1864 the
number visiting it has steadily increased.

According to the Mari/posa Gazette, an authentic record
shows that in the season of 1865 the number was 276, in
1866, 382, in 1867, 435, in 1868, 627, and increasing rap-
idly; in 1875 the number for that year had reached about
3,000. The figures are deemed reliable, as they were ob-
tained from the records of toll-roads and hotels. They are
believed to be very nearly correct.

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 345

The Gazette " estimates the proportion of eastern and
European in the total number to be at least nine-teuths,"
and saj^s: " It is safe to place the Atlantic and European
visitors for the next ten years at 2,000 per annum."

I have no doubt the number has been greater even than
was estimated, for improved facilities for entering the val-
ley have since been established. Seven principal routes
have been opened, and a post office, telegraph and express
offices located. A large hotel has been built by the State,
the trails have been purchased and made free, and the
management is now said by travelers to be quite good.
There is no reason why still farther improvements should
not be made. A branch railroad from the San Joaquin
Valley could enter the Yosemite by way of the South Fork,
or by the Valley of the Merced river. Mineral ores and
valuable lumber outside and below the valley and grant,
would pay the cost of construction, and no defacement of
the grand old park or its additions would be required, nor
should be allowed.

With cars entering the valley, thousands of tourists of
moderate w^ealth would visit it; and then on foot, from
the hotels, be able to see most of the sublime scenery of
the mountains.

If horses or carriages should be desired, for the more
distant points of interest, they may readily be obtained in
the valley at reasonable rates. At present, the expense of
travel by stage, carriage and horseback, is considerable,
and many visiting California, do not feel able to incur the
extra expense of a visit to the Yosemite.

Visitors intending to see both the big trees and the Yo-
semite Valley, should visit the trees lirst, as otherwise the
forest monarchs will have lost a large share of their inter-
est and novelty

346 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

The hotel charges are not much higher than elsewhere

in the State, ai)d the fare is as good as the average in cit-
ies. If extras are required, payment will be expected
as in all localities. There is more water falling in the
spring months, but the water-falls are but fractions of the
interest that att ches to the region, Yosemite is always
grandly beautiful; even in winter it has attractions for the
robust, but invalids had better visit it only after the snow
has disappeared from the lower levels, generally, from
about the first of May to the middle of June,

From that date on to about the first of November, the
valley will be found a most delightful summer resort,
with abundant fruits and vegetables of perfect growth and
richest flavor.

All modern conveniences and many luxuries of enlight-
ened people are now to be found, gathered m fuil view of
the great fall and its supporting scenery. The hotels, tele-
graph, express and post offices are there, and a Union
Chapel dedicated at a grand gathering of the National
Sunday School Onion, held during the summer of 1879,
is regularly used for religious services. Those who may
wish to commune with Nature's God aione while in the
Yosemite, will be in the very innermost sanctuary of all
tliat is Divine in material creation for the va.iey is a holy
Temple, and if their hearts are attuned to the harmony
surrounding them, **the iestimony of the Rocks'^ wil^
bring conviction to their souls.

The unique character of Mirror Lake will leave its
indelible impressions upon the tourist's mind, and resi-
dents of the Yosemite will gladly inform him of the vary-
ing proper time in the morning when its calm stillness
will enable one to witness its greatest charm, the ^'Double
Sunrise.'''' That phenomena may be ascribed to the lake's

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 347

sheltered closeness to the perpendicular wall of the Half
Dome (nearly 5,000 feet high), and the window-like spaces
between the peaks East and South, looked through by the
sun in his upward, westward flight.

As a matter of fact, differing according to the seasons of
the year, "sunri.^eon thelake"may beseen In its reflections
two or more times in the same morning, and, if the visi-
tor be at the lake when the breeze tirst comes up on its
daily appearance from the plains, shattering the lake mir-
ror into fragments, innumerable suns will appear to dazzle
and bewilder the beholder.

The wonderful scenery and resources of California are
becoming known and appreciated. A large additicm has
been made to, and surrounding: the Yosemite and Bio^
Tree Parks, which in time may become one (see map);
and another very large National Park has been es-
tablished in Tulare County, to be known as the
/Sequoia Park, which includes most of the Big Trees
of that entire region ; but it is not so generally
known in the Eastern States that there are such vast landed
estates, such princely realms of unbroken virgin soil
awaiting the developments of industry. Official reports of
the California State Board of Equalization show tliat there
are 122 farms of 20,000 acres each and over. Of these there
are 67 averaging 70,000 acres each, and several exceed
100,000 acres.

These figures are published as official, and were well cal-
culated to make the small farmers of the east open their
eyes; they will yet open the eyes of the land owners them-
selves to the importance of bringing their estates under
successful and remunerative cultivation. This will have to
be done in order that these acres may be made to pay a just
taxation. Thousands of acres that are of little use to the
owners or the public — of no value to the state— can, by the

348 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,

ludicious introduction of water, be made to pay well for
the investment. Irrigating ditches or canals from the Mer-
ced, one on the north side and the other on the south, a
short distance above Snelling, in Merced county, were loca-
ted by the writer, and soon after completion, the arid and
dasty land was transformed into blooming gardens and fer-
tile vineyards. These were the first irrigating ditches of
any considerable magnitude, constructed in Mariposa or
Merced counties, though irrigation was common enough in
other parts of the state. The advance that has since been
made in California agriculture is wonderful. New meth-
ods adapted to the peculiarities of soil and climate have
been introduced, and new machinery invented and applied
that cheapen the cost of production and lessen manual la-
bor to a surprising degree: for instance, machinery that
threshes and cleans ready for the market, over 5,000 bushels
of wheat to the machine per day. Capital is still being
largely invested in railroads, and in reclaiming the Tule
(Bull Kush) lands.

These lands are among the richest in the world. They
grow cotton, tobacco, rice and other southern staples, equal
to the best of the Southern States, with much less danger
from malaria. The valleys of the San Joaquin and Sacra-
mento, which are simply local divisions of the same great
valley, produce according to altitude, moisture and location,
all the cereals, fruits and vegetables of a temperate clime,
as well as those of semi-tropical character; even the poorest
hill-side lands grow the richest wine and raisin grapes. The
yield is so astonishing, as to appear incredible.

The raisins grown and cured in California are said to be
equal to the best Malaga; while the oranges, lemons, olives,
figs, almonds, filberts and English walnuts, command the
highest prices in the market. Peaches, pears, grapes and
honey, are already large items in her trade; and her wheat

AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 349

crops now reach a bulk that is simply enormous.

The grade of horses, cattle, swine, sheep and wool, are
being brought to a high degree of perfection; for the climate
is most salubrious and invigorating. Her gifts of nature
are most bountiful and perfect. No wonder, then, that the
Californian is enthusiastic when speaking of his sublime
scenery, salubrious climate and surprising products.

But I must no longer dwell upon my theme, nor tell of
the fruitful Fresno lands, redeemed from savage l)arl)a
rity. Those scenes of beauteous enchantment I leave to
those who may remain to enjoy them. And yet —

El Capitan, I turn to gaze upon thy lofty brow,
With reverent yearnings to thy Maker bf Q4j'\
But now farewell, Yosemite;

If thou appeare&u not again in sight,
Thou'lt come, I know, in life's extremity.
While passing into realms of light.

THE JESD,

V

ftt'Kl959 ■