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THE  LIBRARY 

of 

St.  PAULS  HOUSE 

3831    No.   Mozart  St.,   CHICAGO 


No. 


LAWRENCE  J.  GUTTER 

Collection  of  Chicogoano 

THE    UNIVERSITY   OF   ILLINOIS 
AT  CHICAGO 

The  University  Library 


<L,# 


C 


lL<A*-4 


POPULAR  WORKS 


WlLLAI(D 

THE  SOLDIER-AlITHOK. 


I.  Soldiers  of  the  Saddle. 
II.  Capture,  Prison-Pen  and  Escape. 

III.  Battles  for  the  Union. 

IV.  Heroes  of  Three  Wars. 

V.  Peculiarities  of  American  Cities. 
VI.  Down  the  Great  River. 
VII.  Ocean  to  Ocean  on  Horseback. 


Captain  Glazier's  works  are  growing  more  and  more 
popular  every  day.  Their  delineations  of  m>ci  il,  mili- 
tary ami  frontier  Hie,  constantly  varying  scenes,  and 
deeply  interesting  stories,  combine  to  place  their  writer 
in  the  front  rank  of  American  authors. 


SOLD  ONLY  BY  SUBSCRIPTION. 

NS  DESIRING  AGENCIES  FOR  ANY  OF  CAFFAI> 
ZIER'S  BOOKS  SHOULD  ADDRESS 

THE    PUBLISHERS. 


DOWN 


GREAT  RIVER; 

EMDRACIKO 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  DISCOVERY  OF  THE 


ci[  tt[E  Mississippi, 


TOGETHER   WITH 

YIEWS,    DESCRIPTIVE    AND    PICTORIAL,    OF    THE    CITIES,    TOWNS, 

VILLAGES  AND  SCENERY  ON  THE  BANKS  OF  THE  RIVER,  AS 

SEEN  DURING  A  CANOE  VOYAGE  OF  OVER  THREE 

THOUSAND  MILES  FROM  ITS  HEAD  WATERS 

TO  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO. 


BY 

CAPTAIN  WILLARD  GLAZIER, 

Author  of  "Soldiers  of  Ihe  Saddle,"  "Capture,  Prison-Pen  nn.I  Escape,"  "Battles  for  the 

I'uion,"  "Heroes  of  Three  Wars,"  "  Peculiarities  of  American  Cities," 

"Ocean  to  Ocean  on  Horseback,"  etc. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

HUBBAKD  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 

723  CHESTNUT  STREET. 

1887. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1887,  by 

WILLARD   GLAZIER, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington,  D.  C. 

, : J 


HON.  CHARLES  P.  DALY,  LL,  D., 

CATS  CHIEF  JUSTICE,  COURT  OF  COMMON   PLBAS,   NEW  YORK; 

PRESIDENT 


geographical 


As  A  TRIBUTE  OF  RESPECT 

FOR  His  EMINENT  PUBLIC  SERVICES; 

AND  His   LIFELONG  DEVOTION  TO  THE  CAUSE  OF 

GEOGRAPHICAL  SCIENCE; 

lie  llolumc 

IS   DEDICATED 


INTRODUCTION. 

'HE  discovery  of  the  Mississippi  is  very 
generally  ascribed  to  Ferdinand  De  Soto, 
who,  in  his  adventurous  march  in  pur- 
suit of  gold  and  glory,  reached  the  Great 
River  in  April,  1541,  near  the  site  of  the 
present  city  of  Natchez.     Worn    out  with 
fatigue  and  humiliated  by  his  many  disappoint- 
ments, he  died  on  its  banks,  and  found  his  final 
resting-place  in  its  depths. 

Discovery  in  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  rested 
for  nearly  a  hundred  years  after  the  death  of  De  Soto, 
when  the  zealous  Jesuit  missionary,  Father  James  Mar- 
quette,  accompanied  by  Sieur  Joliet,  proceeded  from 
Michilimackinac  to  the  head  waters  of  Fox  River,  then 
by  portages  into  the  Wisconsin,  and  descended  that 
stream  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi  in  1673. 
Thoroughly  exploring  the  Mississippi  as  far  as  the 
mouth  of  the  Arkansas,  Marquette  began  his  return 
voyage  to  Canada,  but  after  enduring  many  privations 
and  hardships  among  the  Indians  fell  a  prey  to  ma- 
laria contracted  on  the  Lower  Mississippi,  died  and 
was  buried  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan. 

Robert  de  La  Salle,  following  in  the  footsteps  of 
Marquette,  sailed  from  Rochelle,  France,  on  his  first 
voyage  to  the  New  World,  in  the  summer  of  1678; 
landed  at  Quebec  in  September,  and  in  the  spring  of 

vii 


Vlll  INTRODUCTION. 

1679  ascended  the  Niagara  River  and,  traversing 
Lakes  Erie,  Saint  Clair  and  Huron,  reached  Michil- 
imackinac  the  latter  part  of  August.  From  this  point 
he  proceeded  in  a  southerly  direction  to  Lake  Michi- 
gan and  erected  on  its  banks  a  fort  in  the  territory  of 
the  Miamis.  In  1680,  we  find  him  at  Fort  Fron- 
tenac,  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  in  the  autumn  of  1681,  he 
descended  the  Mississippi  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Illinois  River  on  his  way  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  reach- 
ing it  April  seventh,  1682.  Soon  afterward  he  re- 
turned to  France  by  way  of  Quebec. 

La  Salle  left  France  on  his  second  expedition  in 
July,  1684,  reached  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in  the  follow- 
ing February,  founded  a  settlement  on  the  Bay  of 
Saint  Louis,  and  during  his  voyage  to  Canada  was 
assassinated  by  his  own  men.  The  command  of  the 
expedition  and  the  account  of  his  explorations  devolved 
upon  his  lieutenant,  the  Chevalier  Tonti. 

When  La  Salle  led  his  first  expedition  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi, Father  Louis  Hennepin,  who  had  accompanied 
him  from  France,  was  sent  northward  with  three 
voyageurs  to  explore  its  head  waters.  After  ascending 
the  Mississippi  one  hundred  and  fifty  leagues  above 
the  junction  of  the  Illinois,  they  were  taken  prisoners 
by  the  Indians  and  carried  into  captivity  towards  the 
the  source  of  the  river  in  a  journey  of  nineteen  days. 
Being  set  at  liberty  they  descended  the  stream  and 
returned  to  Canada.  Hennepin  subsequently  pub- 
lished an  account  of  his  explorations  and  advent- 
ures which  tended  to  throw  considerable  light  upon 
the  Indian  tribes  he  had  encountered,  and  the  regions 
he  had  traversed. 

In  1683,  Baron  La  Hontan,  an  unfrocked  monk 


INTRODUCTION.  IX 

and  subsequently  an  officer  of  the  French  army, 
arrived  at  Quebec.  During  the  four  years  of  his 
military  service  in  Canada,  he  was  stationed  for  a  time 
at  Michilimackinac,  where,  in  1688,  he  first  heard  of 
the  death  of  La  Salle.  Being  commissioned  to  con- 
tinue the  work  of  exploration  begun  by  Marquette, 
La  Salle  and  Hennepin,  he  proceeded  to  Green  Bay  and 
passed  through  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin  rivers  to  the 
Mississippi  in  1689.  The  highly  colored  stories  of  his 
observations  and  adventures  related  by  this  explorer 
rival  the  tales  of  Munchausen,  and  lead  the  reader  to 
question  the  credibility  of  his  published  accounts. 

For  a  period  of  one  hundred  and  fourteen  years 
succeeding  the  explorations  of  La  Hontan,  the  Great 
River  was  seldom  visited  by  white  men.  Charlevoix, 
who  had  been  commissioned  as  the  historian  of  New 
France,  landed  at  Quebec  in  1721  and,  passing  through 
the  lakes,  descended  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  to 
New  Orleans. 

Captain  Jonathan  Carver,  a  native  of  Connecticut, 
who  had  served  several  years  in  the  provincial  army, 
gave  some  attention  to  the  Upper  Mississippi  in  1766. 
By  his  courage  and  invincible  daring  among  the 
Indians  he  acquired  a  powerful  influence  over  them ; 
was  elected  by  the  Sioux  to  the  chieftainship  of  a  tribe, 
and  given  a  vast  tract  of  laud,  which,  however,  the 
British  government  declined  to  ratify.  The  fate  of 
Carver  cannot  but  elicit  our  warmest  sympathies. 
His  gallant  services  as  a  soldier  and  his  zealous  work 
in  the  field  of  exploration  should  have  insured  for 
him  from  his  king  a  respectable  competency;  but, 
on  the  contrary,  he  was  suffered  to  feel  the  annoy- 
ances of  poverty,  and  died  of  want  in  the  city  of 


X  INTRODUCTION. 

London,  where,  for  a  long  time  previous  to  his  death, 
he  endured  greater  privations  than  had  fallen  to  his  lot 
in  the  American  wilderness. 

From  1769  to  1793  several  enterprising  travelers 
carried  forward  the  work  of  exploration  in  the  New 
World.  During  these  years  Samuel  Hearne  made  a 
journey  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Coppermine  River, 
and  McKenzie  performed  a  voyage  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  Nothing,  however,  was  done  in  the  direction 
of  the  Mississippi  after  the  return  of  Carver,  until 
1805,  when  Lieutenant  Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike,  a 
brave  and  accomplished  young  officer  of  our  regular 
army,  was  ordered  by  General  Wilkinson,  then  in  com- 
mand of  the  Department  of  Louisiana,  to  proceed  to  the 
head  waters  of  the  river  and  continue  the  exploration. 

Pike  started  from  Bellefontaine,  Missouri,  with  a 
force  of  twenty  men,  in  August,  1805.  Knowing  com- 
paratively little  of  the  climate  of  the  region  he  was 
about  to  visit,  having  no  interpreter  or  guides,  he 
labored  under  many  disadvantages.  Winter  overtook 
him  when  he  had  reached  a  point  only  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  north  of  Saint  Anthony  Falls.  Here 
he  built  a  block-house  and,  leaving  a  detachment  of  his 
men  in  charge  of  a  sergeant,  pushed  forward  with 
snow-shoes  and  sledges  as  far  as  Cass  Lake,  then 
known  to  the  agents  of  the  North-west  British  Fur 
Company  as  Upper  Red  Cedar  Lake. 

It  appears  from  the  narrative  of  Lieutenant  Pike's 
expedition  that  he  derived  his  information  of  the 
topography  of  the  country  chiefly  from  representa- 
tives of  the  North-west  Fur  Company,  on  whom  he 
seems  to  have  relied  largely  for  assistance  in  the  de- 
lineation of  maps.  These  fur-traders  led  him  to  a 


1NTR  OD  UCTION.  X1 

wrong  impression  concerning  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, which  he  located  in  Turtle  Lake.  Having,  as 
he  supposed,  accomplished  the  object  of  his  mission, 
Pike  returned  to  Bellefontaine,  and  subsequently 
published  an  account  of  his  expedition  and  its  results. 

General  Lewis  Cass,  of  Michigan,  an  eminent  sol- 
dier and  statesman,  organized  an  expedition  at  De- 
troit and  led  it  up  the  Detroit  River  and  through 
the  lakes  to  the  Mississippi  in  the  spring  and  summer 
of  1820.  Like  his  predecessor,  Lieutenant  Pike, 
General  Cass  reached  the  Mississippi  too  late  in  the 
season  to  penetrate  to  its  ultimate  source.  His  ex- 
ploration rested  in  the  lake  which  now  bears  his  name 
and  which  had  been  previously  visited  by  Pike. 
Having  on  his  staff  several  gentlemen  of  scientific 
attainments,  the  Cass  expedition  was  distinguished  by 
its  attention  to  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  In- 
dian tribes  and  the  botany,  mineralogy,  and  meteor- 
ology of  the  regions  traversed. 

Passing  over  the  expedition  of  Beltrami  and  his  sup- 
posed discovery  in  1823,  we  find  that  early  in  the  spring 
of  1832,  Henry  Rowe  Schoolcraft,  who  had  accompanied 
General  Cass  in  1820,  was  commissioned  by  the  Gov- 
ernment to  proceed  to  the  Upper  Mississippi,  make  cer- 
tain treaties  with  the  Indians  and  carry  forward  the  work 
of  exploration,  if  possible,  to  its  fountain-head.  Fully 
equipped,  and  with  an  officer  of  the  regular  army  to  com- 
mand his  escort,  Schoolcraft  arrived  at  Cass  Lake  on  the 
tenth  of  July.  Pushing  forward  with  small  canoes  he 
reached  Lake  Itasca  three  days  later.  Evidently  sat- 
isfied that  he  had  found  the  object  of  his  search,  and 
having  an  appointment  to  meet  Indians  in  council  at 
the  mouth  of  Crow  Wing  River,  Schoolcraft  neglected 


Xli  INTRODUCTION. 

to  coast  Itasca  for  its  feeders,  and  thus  missed  the  goal 
he  had  so  industriously  sought. 

Jean  Nicolas  Nicollet,  who  succeeded  Schoolcraft  in 
Mississippi  exploration,  was  a  native  of  France,  and 
came  to  America  in  1832.  His  first  visit  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  was  entirely  unofficial  and 
made  in  the  interests  of  science.  Having  attracted 
the  attention  of  our  Government,  he  was  sent  at  the 
head  of  an  expedition  to  the  same  region  in  1836. 
This  eminent  explorer  appears,  from  his  maps  and  the 
narrative  of  his  expedition,  to  have  overlooked  the 
main  stream  entering  the  south-western  arm  of  Lake 
Itasca,  and  to  have  accepted  conclusively  the  statements 
of  those  who  had  preceded  him. 

Satisfied  that  the  work  of  exploration  at  the  head 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  had  been  completed  by 
Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet,  nothing  further  was  at- 
tempted in  this  quarter,  with  the  exception  of  a  partial 
survey,  from  1836  to  1881,  an  interval  of  forty- 
five  years,  when  in  the  latter  year  the  question  of  the 
fountain-head  of  the  Great  River  was  again  revived,  and 
a  hitherto  unrecognized  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca -was 
located  by  the  author  of  this  volume  as  the  primal 
reservoir — the  TRUE  SOURCE  of  the  FATHER  OF 
WATERS. 

WILLARD  GLAZIER. 

November  24, 1886. 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

THE   OLD   EXPLORERS. 

De  Soto,  Marquette,  La  Salle  and  Heunepin. — Pike,  Beltrami, 
Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet. — Lake  Itasca. — Other  Lakes. — A  Field 
for  Exploration. — The  Author  Proceeds  to  Saint  Paul. — Prepares 
for  an  Expedition  to  the  Head  Waters  of  the  Mississippi. — 
Journey  to  Brainerd. — Topography  of  the  Country. — Extra  Sup- 
plies.— Leech  Lake. — Kabekanka  River  .....  29 

CHAPTER  II. 

THROUGH   THE   CHIPPEWA    COUNTRY. 

En  Route  to  the  Head  Waters  of  the  Great  River. — Impenetrable 
Underbrush. — A  Rough  Road. — Half-way  Houses. — Gull  Lake. — 
Wandering  Indians. — Hole-in-the-day. — Little  Crow. — John  Mona- 
han. — Aboriginal  Conflicts. — Reuben  Gray. — Dinner  at  Gull 
Lake. — Ride  to  Pine  River. — Huge  Logs  and  Boulders. — George 
Barclay. — Characteristics  of  Indians. — Fourteen  Mile  Lake. — 
First  Meal  in  Open  Air. — Exuberant  Spirits. — Gauging  the  Ra- 
tions.— Duck-shooting. — Birch-bark  Canoes  Capsized. — Resolved 
on  more  Caution. — Journey  Continued 32 

CHAPTER  III. 

HOME   OP  THE    CHIPPEWAS. 

Arrival  at  Leech  Lake. — Log-cabin  Hotel. — Fresh  Fish  and  Flap- 
jacks.— Canadian  Fur-traders. — Indian  Agency. — Major  Ruffe. — 
Paul  Beaulieu. — White  Cloud. — Pioneer  History. — Sioux  and  Chip- 
pewas. — Domestic  Habits  of  Indians. — Secure  an  Interpreter  and 
Guides. — Birch-bark  Canoes. — Flat-mouth. — Chenowagesic. — Din- 
ner with  Flat  Mouth. — Rev.  Edwin  Benedict. — Theory  of  Paul  Beau- 
lieu  as  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. — Diversity  of  Opinion  38 

xiii 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

EXPLORATION   AND   DISCOVERY. 

A  Council. — Chenowagesic  Draws  a  Map. — Canoes. — Distribution  of 
Luggage. — Embark  on  Leech  Lake. — Making  a  Portage. — Kabe- 
kanka  River. — Trolling  for  Fish. — Encampment. — Clouds  of  Mos- 
quitoes.— Strike  Tents. — Launch  Canoes. — Lake  Garfield. — Packing 
Traps. — Indians  Carry  Canoes. — More  Mosquitoes. — Gabekanazeba 
River. — Astir  at  Dasvn. — Naming  Lakes. — Blue  Berries.— Wolf  and 
Deer. — Shooting  Ducks. — De  Soto  River. — Short  Rations. — Ammu- 
nition Lost. — Rigid  Economy. — Portage. — Height  of  Land. — Flocks 
of  Pigeons. — Wild  Strawberries. — Lake  Itasca. — Schoolcraft  Isl- 
and    ...  49 

CHAPTER  V. 

TRUE   SOURCE   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

Exhausting  Portages. — Empty  Haversacks. — Coasting  Itasca  for  its 
Feeders. — A  Talk  with  Chenowagesic. — Infant  Mississippi. — A 
Beautiful  Lake. — Source  of  the  Great  River. — Description  of  Primal 
Reservoir. — Three  Feeders. — Lake  Alice. — A  Geographical  Error 
Corrected. — A  Surprise. — Pokegama. — Chenowagesic  Speaks. — • 
Latitude  and  Altitude  of  Source. — Length  of  the  Mississippi. — Mean 
Descent 68 

CHAPTER  VI. 

DOWN   THE  GREAT   RIVER. 

FIRST  DAY. — "  Now  for  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ! " — Return  to  Itasca. — 
A  Bald  Eagle. — Short  Rations. — Outlet  of  Itasca. — Obstructions. — 
Narrow  Gorges. — Savannas. — Wild  Rice. — Camp  Discovery. — Mar- 
quette  River. — Gna wings  of  Hunger. — Mosquitoes.  SECOND  DAY. 
— Exploring  for  Breakfast. — Descending  the  Stream. — The  Dis- 
covery.— The  Alice. — The  Itasca. —  Shoot  an  Otter. — Two  Ducks 
Shot  and  Two  Captured. — A  Light  Breakfast. — Drift  and 
Boulders. — All  Hands  Clear  the  Way. — Hunger  and  Fatigue. — The 
Otter  Roasted  for  Supper. — Small  and  Poor. — Advanced  only 
Fifteen  Miles.— Camp  Otter 77 

CHAPTER  VII. 

PERILS  AND   PRIVATIONS. 

THIRD  DAY. — Blue  Berries. — Chain  of  Rapids. — Kakabikons  Falls. — 
A  Capsize  and  a  Loss. — Joliet  River. — Hunger,  Gaunt  and  Stern.— 
Four  Ducks  Shot. — Disembark  and  Pitch  Tents. — Camp  Hunger. — 


CONTENTS.  xv 

Ducks  Reserved  for  Breakfast.  FOURTH  DAY. — Paddles  Resumed. 
—An  Old  Duck.— La  Salle  River.— A  Deer.— A  Wasted  Shot.— Ex- 
hausted.—Halt  for  Rest.— Two  Ducks  and  a  Mud-Turtle.— Wild 
Rice. — Savannas.— Pinidiwin  River. — Wild  Geese  out  of  Range. — 
Camp  Starvation '.  .  .  .  86 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

BEMIDJI  TO  WINNIBEGOSHISH. 

FIFTH  DAY.— Struck  Tents  at  Sunrise.— Two  Ducks  and  a  Muskrat. 
— All  Hands  Very  Weak. — Meet  a  Canoe. — Fish  and  Sugar. — Lake 
Marquette. — Lake  Bemidji. — Camp  Relief. — Trading-post  Aban- 
doned.— Empty  Larder  Again.  SIXTH  DAY. — Re-embark. — Two 
Small  Ducks. — Cass  Lake. — A  Few  Dried  Fish. — Camp  Chippewa. 
— Foraging. — Corn  and  Potatoes. — Aboriginal  Generosity. — We 
Help  Ourselves. — Description  of  Cass  Lake. — Lieutenant  Pike. — 
Governor  Cass.  SEVENTH  DAY. — Cabin  of  Missionary. — Up  at 
Daybreak. — Roasting  Potatoes. — Meet  Some  Indians. — Dried  Veni- 
son.— Lake  Winnibegoshish. — Strong  Wind. — Nearly  Swamped. — 
Strike  the  Beach. — Kitchinodin. — Cordial  Reception. — Wind- 
bound. — Indian  Character. — A  Good  Dinner  for  All  Hands. — 
Kitchinodin  Asks  a  Blessing.— A  Walk  Through  the  Village. — 
Description  of  Lake  Winnibegoshish 95 

CHAPTER  IX. 

HABITS  AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE   CHDPPEWAS. 

EIGHTH  DAY. — Home  of  Kitchinodin. — Religion  of  the  Chippewas. — 
The  Great  Spirit.— The  Evil  Spirit.— Invoking  the  Deity  .—Polyga- 
my.— Education. — Luck. — Fasting. — Females  Degraded. — Origin  of 
the  Chippewas. — A  Future  State. — False  Traditions. — Inter-mar- 
riages.— Courtship. — Power  of  Husband  over  Wife. — Funerals. — In- 
vocations to  Deceased. — Grief. — Parting  with  Chenowagesic. — 
Happy  Hunting-grounds 105 

CHAPTER  X. 

LAKE  WINNIBEGOSHISH   TO  GRAND  RAPIDS. 

NINTH  DAY. — Re-embark. — Driven  Ashore  by  High  Wind. — Camp 
Chenowagesic. — Tents  Pitched. — Retire  for  the  Night. — Disturbed 
at  Midnight. — Villanous-looking  Indians.  ELEVENTH  DAY. — • 
Slow  progress. — Leech  Lake  River. — White  Oak  Point. — Camp 
Kitchinodin. — Chippewa  Village. — Curiosity  of  Indians. — Chief 
Dull-Knife. — Ugly  Women. — Nude  Men. — Description  of  a  Wig- 
wam.— Indians  Friendly.  TWELFTH  DAY.— Meet  Three  Canoes. 


XVI  CONTENTS. 

— Half^for  Dinner. — Mosquitoes. — Pokegama  Falls. — A  Portage. — 
Arrive  at  Grand  Rapids. — The  Potter  House    ....  122 

CHAPTER  XI. 

GRAND    RAPIDS   TO    AITKIN. 

THIRTEENTH  DAY.— Supply  of  Food.— Leave  Grand  Rapids.— 
Farewells. — Make  Good  Progress. — Camp  Portage.  FOURTEENTH 
DAY. — Camp  Thunder. — Change  of  Scenery. — Halt  for  Dinner. — 
Swan  River. — Steamer  City  of  Aitkin. — A  Salute. — Land  for  the 
Night. — Heavy  Thunder-storm.  FIFTEENTH  DAY. — Camp  Mos- 
quito.— Re-embark. — Meet  Indians. — White  Man  with  Indian 
Wife. — Fine  Country. — Former  Battle-grounds.  SIXTEENTH  DAY. 
Douglass  House,  Aitkin. — Return  to  Civilization. — Mud  River. — A 
Capsize. — "  The  Commodore." — Interpreter  Leaves  for  Leech  Lake. 
— Aitkin. — Population  and  Industry 130 

CHAPTER  XII. 

TEN   DAYS    AT   AITKIN. 

Reorganization — Lecture  Appointments. 

Profitable  Employment. — Carlos  Douglass. — Rambles  Around  Aitkin. 
— Productive  Soil. — Numerous  Lakes. — Modern  Canoes. — Rushton 
Canoe. — A.  H.  Seigfried. — A  Veteran  Canoeist. — Rushton's  "  No. 
93." — Description  of  "  No.  93." — "  American  Travelling  Canoe." 
— Letter  from  A.  H.  Seigfried. — H.  L.  Hinckley. — Valuable  Sug- 
gestions.— Racine  St.  Paul  Canoe. — Rob  Roy  Canoe. — Descrip- 
tion of  Racine  St.  Paul — Letter  from  Mr.  Hiuckley. — Advice  and 
Instructions  Relating  to  Canoes. — Good  Wishes  .  .  .  136 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

AITKIN    TO    BRAINERD. 

TWENTY-SIXTH  DAY. — Pine  Knoll. — Below  Aitkin. — "Weighed 
Anchor." — "  Snags  and  Sawyers." — Broad  Savannas. — Pine  Tim- 
ber.— A  Pleasing  Landscape. — Abundance  of  Water-fowl. — A  Wil- 
derness.— John  Polly  and  Family. — Hospitality. — Thunder-storm. 
TWENTY-SEVENTH  DAY. — Camp  Discomfort.— Launched  Canoes. 
— All  Hands  in  Good  Spirits. — The  Sioux  Portage. — Another  Cap- 
size.— Approaching  Storm. — Stores  Damaged. — Lightning  and 
Thunder. — Tents  no  Protection. — Story-telling  to  Pass  the  Night. 
TWENTY-EIGHTH  DAY. — Start  for  Brainerd. — Halt  for  Dinner. — 
Re-embark. — Arrive  at  Brainerd. — Greetings. — Warren  Leland. — 
Arthur  E.  Chase. — Dr.  Rosser. — Lecture. — Chauncy  B.  Sleeper. — 
George  Barclay. — The  Stolen  Trunk. — Thieves  Arrested. — Held  for 
Trial. — Description  of  Braiuerd  ......  141 


CONTENTS.  Xvii 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

BRAINERD   TO  MONTICELLO. 

TWENTY-NINTH  DAY. — Re-embark. — Land  at  Crow  Wing. — Charles 
Bailey. — Hunting  Exploits. — Description  of  Crow  Wing.  THIR- 
TIETH DAY. — Little  Falls. — A  Surprise. — Judge  Story. — A.  J.  Pier- 
son. — Vassaly  House. — Lecture.  THIRTY-FIRST  DAY.— Receive 
Calls. — Moses  Lafond. — Nathan  Richardson. — Valuable  Informa- 
tion.—Shooting  the  Falls. — The  Alice. — Pike  Rapids. — Mrs.  Mc- 
Neil.— Western  Hospitality. — Western  Women.— Women  Farmers. 
THIRTY-SECOND  DAY. — Saint  Cloud. — River  Widening. — Sauk 
Rapids. — Nearly  Swamped. — Captain  West. — Lecture. — Judge  L. 
A.  Evans. — Description  of  Saint  Cloud. — Jane  Grey  Swisshelm. 
THIRTY-THIRD  DAY. — Monticello. — Reach  Monticello.— Cordial 
Welcome. — Lecture.— Henry  Kreis.— Samuel  E.  Adams.— Henry 
Glazier 154 

CHAPTER  XV. 

MONTICELLO  TO  MINNEAPOLIS. 

THIRTY-FOURTH  DAY. — Leave  Monticello. — Interest  Manifested. — 
River-drivers. — Wongans. — Booms  and  Jams. — Village  of  Elk 
River.  THIRTY-FIFTH  DAY. — Friedley. — Strong  Wind.— Blown 
Ashore  at  Anoka.— Dinner.— Reach  Friedley.  THIRTY-SIXTH 
DAY. — Jams  and  Log-booms. — Reach  Minneapolis. — "  The  Nicol- 
let." — Saint  Anthony  Falls. — Grand  Spectacle. — "  Sound  of  Many 
Waters."— Father  Hennepin.— Height  of  Falls.— Breadth  of  Falls. 
— Legend  of  the  Falls. — Arnpato's  Fate. — Saint  Anthony. — Sus- 
pension Bridge. — University.— Water-power. — Huge  Rafts.— Lum- 
ber Business. — Flour-mills. — Summer  Resorts. — Falls  of  Minne- 
halia. — Boating,  Bathing  and  Fishing. — Germans  and  Scandi- 
navians.— Metropolis  of  North-west  ......  163 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

TEN  DAYS  AT  SAINT  PAUL. 

Fort  Snelling. — Lieutenant  Pike. — Major  Long. — Colonel  Leaven- 
worth. — Colonel  Snelling. — Minnesota  River. — Jonathan  Carver. — 
Geology  and  Mineralogy.— Minnesota  Boat  Club. — "  The  Island." 
• — Deliver  a  Lecture. — Father  Hennepin. — Treaty  with  Sioux. — 
Pierre  Perent. — First  Building  in  Saint  Paul. — Catholic  Mission. — 
Bridges. — Capitol. — Opera  House. — Academy  of  Sciences. — His- 
torical Society. — Schools. — Asylums. — Stores  and  Warehouses. — 
Retail  Trade. — Wharfage. — Railroads. — Points  of  Interest.— Car- 
ver's Cave.— Fountain  Cave. — White  Bear  Lake.— Bald  Eagle 
Lake.— City  Park. — Progress  of  Civilization  .  .  .  .183 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

SAINT  PAUL  TO  LA   CROSSE. 

FORTY-SIXTH  DAY.— Leave  Saint  Paul. — Drenching  Rain. — 
The  Gem  City. — Hastings. — Lecture  Postponed. — Foster  House. 
FORTY-SEVENTH  DAY. — Leave  Hastings. — Saint  Croix  River. — 
Red  Wing. — Swiss  Missionaries. — Dakota  Indians. — William 
Freeborn. — Manufactures  and  Resources.  FORTY-EIGHTH  DAY. 
— "Beware  of  Lake  Pepin."— Frontenac. — General  Garrard. — 
Legends  of  Lake  Pepin. — Maiden  Rock. — Lake  City.  FORTY- 
NINTH  DAY. — Minneiska. — Violent  Wind-storm. — Chippewa 
River.  FIFTIETH  DAY. — Reach  Winona. — Courtesies. — Lecture. — 
Business  Activity. — Railways. — Churches. — Schools. — Public  Li- 
brary.— Newspapers. — Manufactures. — Lumber  Trade.  FIFTY- 
FIRST  DAY. — Leave  Winona. — Ugly  Clouds. — Violent  Wind. 
— Canoes  Filled  with  Water. — Sudden  Calm. — Disembark  at 
Trenipealeau. — Melchior  House 197 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THREE   DAYS   AT   LA   CROSSE. 

Trip  from  Trempealeau. — La  Crosse  and  Surroundings. — Delightful 
Day. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Arrive  at  La  Crosse. — Pearce  Giles. — 
Name  of  City. — Distance  from  Saint  Paul. — Black  and  La  Crosse 
Rivers. — Growth  of  La  Crosse. — Myrick's  Indian  Trading-post. — 
Present  Population. — Products  and  Resources.— Potatoes  and  Flax. 
— Port  of  Entry. — Lumber. — Base  of  Supply. — Electric  Lights. — 
Churches. — Schools. — Newspapers. — Public  Library. — Rapid  Im- 
provement   220 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

LA  CROSSE   TO   DUBUQUE. 

FIFTY-FIFTH  DAY. — Victory,  Wisconsin. — Heavy  Thunder-storm. — 
Driven  Ashore.  FIFTY-SIXTH  DAY.— Prairie  du  Chien. — Dim- 
cult  Landing. — Marquette  and  Joliet. — Jesuit  Mission. — Kickapoo 
Indians. — The  Mound-Builders. — Gautier  de  Vorville. — Brisbois. — 
Captain  Fisher. — Saint  John's  College. — Saint  Mary's  Institute. — 
Fort  Crawford.  FIFTY-SEVENTH  DAY. — Guttenberg,  Iowa. — 
Thoroughly  Soaked. — The  City  and  its  Surroundings.  FIFTY- 
EIGHTH  DAY. — Dubuque,  Iowa. — September  Rains. — Land  for 
Dinner. — Refused  Accommodations. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Excel- 


CONTENTS.  xix 

lent  Pasturage. — Winnebago  Indians. — March  of  Civilization. — A 
"  Pocket." — Reach  Dubuque. — Julian  Dubuque. — Lead  Mines. — 
Treaty  with  Indians. — Immigrants. — The  Civil  War. — Volunteers. 
— Trade  and  Manufactures. — Lumber.— First  School. — The  Lead 
District — Geographical  Position  of  Dubuque  .  .  .  .226 

CHAPTER  XX. 

DUBUQUE  TO  DAVENPORT. 

FIFTY-NINTH  DAY. — Start  for  Davenport. — Change  of  Scenery. — 
Excellent  Progress. — Reach  Bellevue. — Bower  House. — N.  O. 
Ames.— Hon.  W.  O.  Evans. — Captain  Warren.— B.  W.  Seaward. — 
Bellevue  and  the  Bandits. — Delightful  Summer  Resort. — A  Promis- 
ing Town.  SIXTIETH  DAY. — Clinton,  Iowa. — Wapsipinicon 
Boat  Club. — Hospitality. — Revere  House. — Description  of  Clinton. 
— Death  of  Garfield.  SIXTY-FIRST  DAY. — Comauche. — Meeting 
an  Army  Comrade. — Cordova. — Le  Claire  Rapids. — Moline. — 
Lowell  of  the  West. — Manufacturing  Centre. — Water-power. — 
"  City  of  Mills." — Rock  River. — Deere  &  Company. — Educational 
and  Religious  Matters. — Sylvan  Water. — Rowing  Association.  244 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

FOUR   DAYS  AT  DAVENPORT. 

Rock  Island  Arsenal — City  of  Rock  Island. 

Site  of  Davenport. — The  Illini. — Winfield  Scott. — George  Daven- 
port.— Antoine  Le  Claire. — James  Mackintosh. — The  Ferry. — 
Sidewalks. — Court  House. — Educational  Advantages. — Churches. 
— Public  Library. — Academy  of  Sciences. — Mercy  Hospital. — 
Home  for  the  Friendless. — Growth  of  Davenport. — Rock  Island 
Arsenal.— General  Rodman. — Colonel  D.  W.  Flagler.— Early 
Settlers. — Cause  of  Black  Hawk  War. — Governor  Reynolds. — 
General  Gaines. — The  "Prophet." — Treaty  of  Peace. — Colonel 
Atkinson. — Zachary  Taylor. — Jefferson  Davis. — General  White- 
side.— Abraham  Lincoln.— Hard  Fighting. — End  of  War.— Sacs 
and  Foxes. — Late  Civil  War. — Military  Prison. — Description  of 
the  Island. — Capacity  of  Arsenal. — Ornithology. — Rock  River. — 
Hennepin  Canal. — Rock  Island  City. — Description. — Commerce 
aud  Manufactures.— Black  Hawk's  Watch-tower  .  .  .  252 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

DAVENPORT    TO    BURLINGTON. 

SIXTY-SIXTH    DAY.— An    Early   Start.— Reach    Muscatine.— De- 
2 


xx  CONTENTS. 

scription.  —  Railways.  —  Lumber.  —  Agricultural  Produce.  — 
Churches. — Schools. — Population.  SIXTY-SEVENTH  DAY. — Stop 
at  a  Farm  House. — Funeral  of  President  Garfield. — Iowa  Grangers. 
— John  Warren  Walton. — Iowa  River. — Home  of  Black  Hawk. 
— Indian  Relics.  SIXTY-EIGHTH  DAY.  —  Keithsburg.  —  Reach 
Burlington. — Barrett  House. — Flint-mills. — Description  of  Bur- 
lington.—First  Settler.— Samuel  S.  White.— Doolittle.— John 
Grey. — Name  of  City. — Dr.  Samuel  S.  Ross. — Judge  D.  Rorer. — 
Zion  Church. — Opera  House. — First  Wedding. — Population. — 
Public  Library.  —  Churches. — Schools. — Colleges. — Boat  Club. 
— Private  Residences. — Prospect  Hill. — Black  Hawk  Amphi- 
theatre.— The  Levee. — Manufactures  and  Commerce. — Iron  Bridge. 
— Steam-ferry. — Burlington  College. — Burlington  Hawkeye  .  272 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

BURLINGTON   TO    QUINCY. 

SIXTY-NINTH  DAY. — Leave  Burlington. — Adventure  on  a  Sand- 
bar.— Rich  Farms. — Nauvoo. — Joseph  Smith. — Collisions  with 
Gentiles. — Polygamy. — Book  of  Mormon. — Compelled  to  Flee. — 
Description  of  Temple. — Military  Corps. — Spiritual  Wives. — 
Arrest  of  Joseph  and  Hiram  Smith. — Hiram  Shot  Dead. 
— Joseph  Wounded  and  Killed. — Brigham  Young. — Rigdon. 
— Armed  Mobs. — A  "Special  Revelation." — Flight. — Temple 
Destroyed. — Icarians. — M.  Cabet.  SEVENTIETH  DAY. — Reach 
Keokuk. — A  Tradition. — Dr.  Samuel  C.  Miner. — American  Fur 
Company. — Moses  Stillwell. — Joshua  Palean. — Indian  Wives. — 
Dr.  Isaac  Galland. — Jesse  Crayton. — "  Medicine  Ground." — 
Government  Canal. —  Water-power. —  Manufacturing  Centre. — 
National  Cemetery. — Government  Hospital. — Public  Library. — 
Churches. — Schools. — Artesian  Well. — Steamboats. — Fair-grounds. 
— Railroads. — College  of  Physicians. — Beautiful  Locality. — Hand- 
some Buildings.  SEVENTY-FIRST  DAY. — Gregory,  Missouri. — 
Leave  Keokuk. — Des  Moines  River. — Gregory.  SEVENTY-SECOND 
DAY. — Quincy,  Illinois. — Meet  Several  Steamers. — The  Gem  City. 
— Description  of  Quincy. — Railroad  Bridge. — Parks. — Fair-ground. 
— Elegant  Residences. — Manufactures. — Churches. — Hospitals  and 
Asylums. — Medical  College.—- Schools. — Public  Library. — Popula- 
tion    .  283 

CHAPTER   XXIV. 

QUINCY  TO    SAINT    LOUIS. 
Leave     Quincy.— Reach     Hannibal.— Description     of     Hannibal. 


CONTENTS.  XXI 

— Growth  and  Prosperity.  —  Lumber.  —  Manufactures.  —  Coal 
and  Limestone. — Schools. — Hannibal  College. — Population.  SEV- 
ENTY-SIXTH DAY.— Cincinnati,  Illinois.— Naming  Villages. — 
Narrow  Limits. — Unattractive  Surroundings.  SEVENTY-SEVENTH 
DAY. — Cap  Au  Gris,  Missouri. — Dense  Fog. — Leave  Cincinnati. — 
Clarksville. — Hamburg. — Falmouth. — Great  Only  in  Name. — An 
Unenviable  Position. — Midnight  Apparition. — The  Gem  City  Again. 
— Landed. — Suspicion  Aroused. — "River  Tramps." — Another  Ef- 
fort.— Re-embark. — Reach  Cap  Au  Gris. — "Leading  Hotel."— 
River  Invading  the  Town.  SEVENTY-EIGHTH  DAY. — Alton,  Illi- 
nois.— Leave  Cap  Au  Gris. — Illinois  River. — La  Salle. — Derivation 
of  "  Illinois." — Revolutionary  War. — Kaskaskia. — Alton. — De- 
scription. —  Population.  —  Piasa  Creek.  —  Bluffs.  —  Caves. — Rail- 
roads.— Manufactures. — Lime  and  Building  Stone  .  .  302 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

THREE    DAYS    AT   SAINT    LOUIS. 

Trip  from  Alton — In  and  Around  Saint  Louis. 

Missouri  River. — Majesty  of  the  Mississippi. — The  Yellowstone. — 
The  Great  Falls. — Tributaries. — Marquette  and  Joliet. — Saint  Gene- 
vieve. — Civil  War. — Governor  Jackson. — General  Fremont. — Mar- 
tial Law. — Confederates. — Laclede. — A  Trading-post. — Old  Market 
Square. — LSguest. — Name  of  Saint  Louis. — Under  Spanish  Rule. — 
Attack  of  Indians. — Inhabitants  Chiefly  French. — Old  Saint 
Louis. — First  Ferry. — First  Baptist  Church. — First  Methodist. — 
First  Episcopal. — Governor  La  Motte. — Population. — Pilot  Knob. 
— Great  Bridge. — Captain  Eads. — Caroudelet. — Missouri  Gazette. 
— Joseph  Charles. — Missouri  Republican. — Post-Dispatch. — Globe- 
Democrat. — The  Times. — German,  French  and  Spanish  Papers. — 
Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum. — Convent  of  Good  Shepherd. — Shaw's 
Garden. — Agricultural  and  Mechanical  Association. — Fair  Week. 
— Forest  Park. — Northern  Park. — Lafayette  Park. — Court  House. 
— Chamber  of  Commerce. — Custom  House. — Jewish  Temple. — 
The  Levee  .......'...  312 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

SAINT  LOUIS   TO   CAIRO. 

EIGHTY-FIRST  DAY.— Once  More  Afloat.— Lunch  in  the  Canoe.-- 
Crystal  City.  EIGHTY-SECOND  DAY. — River  Obstructions. — Vari- 
eties of  River  Craft.— Saint  Geuevieve. — Chester.  EIGHTY-THIKI* 


CONTENTS. 

DAY.— Grand  Tower. — An  ex-Union  Soldier.  EIGHTY-FOURTH 
DAY. — Cape  Girardeau. — A  Circus  and  a  County  Fair.— Blown 
Ashore.  EIGHTY-FIFTH  DAY.— An  Early  Start.— Junction  of  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi. — Cairo. — History  of  the  City. — Description 
by  Charles  Dickens.— Cairo  in  War  Times. — The  Cairo  of  To- 
day.—The  Future  of  Cairo 330 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

CAIRO  TO  MEMPHIS. 

EIGHTY-SIXTH  DAY.— Off  Again.— Belmont.—"  Shanty-Boats."— 
Hypocritical  Boatmen. — Hickman.  EIGHTY-SEVENTH  DAY. — 
Point  Pleasant. — Chickasaw  Bluffs. — Mound-Builders. — Fort  Don- 
elson. — "  Island  No.  10." — Reelfoot  Bayou.  EIGHTY-EIGHTH  DAY. 
— A  Hearty  Send-off. — "Tow-heads." — Numbering  the  Islands. — 
Annual  Overflows. — A  Settler's  Life.  EIGHTY-NINTH  DAY. — 
Arkansas. — Fort  Pillow. — Negro  Cabins. — Crops  of  Cotton.  NINE- 
TIETH DAY. — A  Sixty-three  Miles'  Run. — Harrison's  Landing. — 
Royal  Courtesies.  NINETY-FIRST  DAY. — Arrival  at  Memphis.— 
History  of  the  City. — Commerce. — Institutions. — Ravages  of  Yel- 
low Fever 345 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

MEMPHIS  TO   VICKSBURG. 

NINETY-SECOND  DAY.— Lodging  with  Negroes.— Robert  Green. — 
Ben.  Montgomery.  NINETY-THIRD  DAY.— Helena. — Arnot  Harris. 
— W.  L.  Morris.  NINETY-FOURTH  DAY. — Rough  Experiences. — 
Friar's  Point. — A  Floating  Photograph  Gallery. — At  Modoc. 
NINETY-FIFTH  DAY. — The  Vicksburg.  NINETY-SIXTH  DAY. — 
Levees.— The  White  and  Arkansas  Rivers.  NINETY-SEVENTH 
DAY. — Fortunate  Escape. — A  Quick  Run.  NINETY-EIGHTH  DAY. 
— Monotonous  Scenery.— Greenville.  NINETY-NINTH  DAY. — 
Lively  Greeting  at  Ashton.  ONE  HUNDREDTH  DAY.— Ashore 
at  Ingomar. — Negroes'  Saturday  Night.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND 
FIRST  DAY. — Nearing  Vicksburg. — Its  War  Experiences. — The 
Great  Canal. — Terrific  Fighting. — The  Surrender  .  .  .  357 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

VICKSBURG  TO   NATCHEZ. 

ONE  HUNDRED  AND  SECOND  DAY.— Meet  a  Steamer.— The 
Natchez. — Warrenton. — A  Political  Meeting.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND 
THIRD  DAY.— The  Cotton  Gin.— The  Boiiduraut  Plantation.— A 


CONTENTS. 

Good  Run.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  FOURTH  DAY. — A  Late  Start. — 
Zachary  Taylor's  Plantation.— His  History.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND 
FIFTH  DAY. — Arrival  at  Natchez. — L.  Q.  C.  Lamar.— Early  His- 
tory of  Natchez.— The  Natchez  Indians.— The  City's  Future  .  377 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

NATCHEZ  TO  BATON  ROUGE. 

ONE  HUNDRED  AND  SIXTH  DAY.— Delay  at  Natchez.— A  Late 
Landing. — A  Late  Meeting.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  SEVENTH 
DAY. — Red  River. — The-  "  Raft." — Numerous  Bayous. — Tunica 
Landing.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  EIGHTH  DAY.— On  Board  the 
Steamer  Robert  E.  Lee.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  NINTH  DAY. — 
Farewell  to  the  Winns. — Bayou  Sara. — Port  Hudson. — The  Morn- 
ing Star.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  TENTH  DAY.— The  Eliza  Plan- 
tation.— Making  Sugar. — Baton  Rouge. — Public  Buildings. — War 
History 403 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS. 

ONE  HUNDRED  AND  ELEVENTH  DAY. — Another LateStart.— Donald- 
sonville.— Its  War  History.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  TWELFTH  DAY.— 
Rain. — Rice-fields. — Hospitality  of  the  Negroes.  ONE  HUNDRED 
AND  THIRTEENTH  DAY. — More  Rain. — Orange  Groves. — A  Low 
Country. — Carrollton. — Its  Beauties. — New  Orleans,  the  Crescent 
City. — Its  Peculiar  Features. — In  the  Civil  War. — Its  Defences 
Captured.  —  The  City  Surrendered.  —  Dark  Days.  —  Ancient 
Landmarks. — The  Levee. — The  Shell  Road. — Lake  Ponchartrain. 
— General  Jackson's  Victory. — Cemeteries. — Mardigras.— Present 
Condition  of  the  City 410 

CHAPTER   XXXII. 

NEW  ORLEANS  TO  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO. — END  OF 
VOYAGE. 

ONE  HUNDRED  AND  FOURTEENTH  DAY.— Meeting  Ocean  Steam- 
ers.—Rich  Plantations.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTEENTH  DAY. — 
Adieu  to  English  Turn. — Salutes  from  Steamers. — A  Crowded 
Lodging-place.  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  SIXTEENTH  DAY. — An  Early 
Start. — Luxuriant  Fields  and  Groves. — The  Jump.  ONE  HUN- 
DRED AND  SEVENTEENTH  DAY. — The  Last  Launch.— Pilot  Station. 
—Hospitality  of  Pilots.— Port  Eads.— Captain  Eads.— His  Va- 
rious Achievements. — Robert  La  Salle. — The  Voyage  Ended  .  427 


XXIV  CONTENTS, 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

THE   FATHER   OF   WATERS. 

Review  of  the  Mississippi  and  Its  Tributaries. — Return  to  its  Source. 
— Bayous  of  Louisiana. — The  Red  River. — The  Yazoo  and  Tom- 
bigbee. — Bay  of  Mobile. — The  Arkansas  and  Colorado  Rivers. — 
White  and  Saint  Francis. — The  Ohio. — Chesapeake  Bay  and  At- 
lantic Ocean.  —  Kaskaskia.  —  Missouri.  —  Illinois.  —  Des  Moines, 
Rock  and  Turkey  Rivers. — The  Wisconsin  and  Chippewa. — Saint 
Croix  and  Minnesota. — The  Gulf  Lakes. — The  Red  River  of  the 
North. — Gulf  of  Mexico. — Arctic  Ocean. — What  is  the  Conclu- 
sion?— The  Amazon,  the  Nile  and  the  Mississippi. — The  King  of 
Rivers  .  .  439 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PORTRAIT  OF  THE  AUTHOR Frontispiece 

MEMBERS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 27 

MAP  OF  THE  HEAD  WATERS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 33 

DINNER  WITH  FLATMOUTH 39 

EMBARKING  FOR  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 47 

CAMP  AMONG  THE  PlNES 53 

MAKING  A  PORTAGE 61 

13OURCE  OF  THE  "FATHER  OF  WATERS" 69 

THE  LAKE  BEYOND  ITASCA 73 

RUNNING  RAPIDS  ON  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI .. 87 

Sioux  AND  CHIPPEWA  DANCE  Music 107 

PARTING  WITH  CHENOWAGESIC 119 

FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY  IN  1842 163 

FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY  IN  1881 169 

A  VIEW  OF  MINNEAPOLIS 177 

FORT  SNELLING 181 

(xxv) 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

CITY  OF  ST.  PAUL 187 

FALLS  OF  MINNE-HA-HA 103 

VIEW  OF  LAKE  PEPIX 205 

RAFT  ox  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI 213 

LOG-BOOM  AND  SAW-MILLS 237 

AN  IOWA  TRIBUTARY  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 251 

BRIDGE  BETWEEX  DAVENPORT  AND  ROCK  ISLAND 269 

SAINT  Louis  EXPOSITION  BUILDING 315 

THE  SHANTY-BOAT 343 

CITY  OF  VICKSBURG 369 

NEGROES  PICKING  COTTON 375 

CUTTING  SUGAR  CANE 385 

SPORT  AMONG  THE  BAYOUS 393 

SCENE  IN  THE  LEVEE  DISTRICT 401 

A  RICE  FIELD 411 

THE  CRESCENT  CITY 423 

SCENE  IN  AN  ORANGE  GROVE 429 


DISCOVERT 

OF  THE 

True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  OLD  EXPLORERS. 

'HILE  crossing  the  continent  on  horseback 
from  ocean  to  ocean  in  1876  I  came  to 
a  Bridge  which  spans  the  Mississippi  be- 
tween  Rock  Island,  Illinois  and  Daven- 
port, Iowa.  As  I  saw  the  flood  of  this 
mighty  stream  rolling  beneath,  I  turned  in 
imagination  to  its  discovery  in  1541 ;  I  saw  the 
renowned  De  Soto  on  its  banks  and  buried  in  its 
depths ;  I  accompanied  Marquette  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Wisconsin  to  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas ;  I  fol- 
lowed Father  Hennepin  northward  to  Saint  Anthony 
Falls,  and  saw  the  daring  La  Salle  plant  the  banner 
of  France  on  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Musing  thus  upon  the  exploits  of  the  heroic  old  ex- 
plorers who  led  the  way  to  this  grand  and  peerless 
river  of  North  America,  I  felt  that  it  was  a  subject  of 
much  regret,  that,  although  its  mouth  was  discovered 
by  the  Chevalier  La  Salle  nearly  two  hundred  years 

(29) 


30  DOWN  TEE   GREAT  RIVER. 

ago,  there  was  still  much  uncertainty  as  to  its  true 
source.  Within  the  last  century  several  expeditions 
have  attempted  to  find  the  primal  reservoir  of  the 
Great  River ;  Pike,  Beltrami,  and  Schoolcraft  have  each 
in  turn  claimed  the  goal  of  their  explorations ;  and 
numerous  lakes,  large  and  small  have  from  time  to 
time  enjoyed  the  honor  of  standing  at  the  head  of  the 
Father  of  Waters. 

Schoolcraft  finally,  in  1832,  located  a  lake  which 
he  named  Itasca,  as  the  fountain  head,  and  succeeded 
in  securing  for  it  the  recognition  of  geographers  and 
map  makers.  Notwithstanding  the  fact,  however,  that 
the  new  claim  for  geographical  honors  was  very  gen- 
erally accepted  as  the  source,  I  had  frequently  been 
told  that  many  Indians  denied  that  their  ideal  river 
had  its  origin  in  Lake  Itasca,  but  that  there  were 
other  lakes  and  streams  above  and  beyond  that  lake. 
These  reflections  led  me  to  conclude  that  there  was  yet 
a  rich  field  for  exploration  in  the  wilds  of  Minnesota. 

A  combination  of  unfavorable  circumstances  pre- 
vented for  several  years  the  accomplishment  of  my 
purpose  to  penetrate  to  the  true  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  month  of  May,  1881,  found  me  sojourning 
a  few  days  at  Cleveland,  Ohio,  where  I  had  halted  in 
my  journey  westward  from  New  York.  On  the  first 
day  of  June,  I  proceeded  to  Chicago,  and  from  thence 
to  Saint  Paul,  Minnesota,  where  I  was  joined  by  my 
brother  George,  and  Barrett  Channing  Paine,  of 
Indianapolis.  The  month  of  June  was  spent  at  Saint 
Paul  in  preparation.  Tents,  blankets,  guns,  ammuni- 
tion, fishing-tackle,  and  other  equipage  necessary  to  a 
six  weeks'  campaign  in  the  wilderness,  were  provided 
for  the  little  band  which  was  to  form  my  expedition. 


THE  OLD  EXPLORERS.  31 

Having  completed  arrangements,  I  left  Saint  Paul 
on  the  morning  of  July  Fourth,  with  Brainerd  as  my  im- 
mediate objective.  Short  halts  were  made  at  Minneap- 
olis, Monticello,  Saint  Cloud  and  Little  Falls,  on  our 
way  up  the  river.  Brainerd  was  reached  July  seventh. 
This  enterprising  town  is  situated  at  the  point  where 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  crosses  the  Mississippi; 
is  near  the  boundary  of  the  Chippewa  Indian  Reser- 
vation, and  is  the  nearest  place  of  consequence  to 
Lake  Itasca.  Here  I  again  halted  to  further  inform 
myself  concerning  the  topography  of  the  country;  to 
decide  upon  the  most  feasible  route  to  my  destination, 
and  to  provide  such  extra  supplies  of  rations  and  cloth- 
ing as  might  be  considered  essential  to  the  success  of 
our  enterprise.  After  consulting  maps,  I  concluded 
that,  while  most  of  the  recent  explorers  had  sought  its 
source  by  going  up  the  stream  through  Lakes  Winni- 
begoshish,  Cass  and  Bemidji,  a  more  direct  course 
would  be  by  way  of  Leech  Lake  and  the  Kabekanka 
River. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THROUGH  THE  CHIPPEWA   COUNTRY. 

CAREFUL  study  of  the  route  to  Leech 
Lake,  with  a  few  valuable  suggestions 
from  Warren  Lelaud,  an  old  resident  of 
Brainerd,  led  me  to  seek  wagon  convey- 
ance to  the  former  place  over  what  is  known 
in  northern  Minnesota  as  the  Government 
Road.  This  road  stretches  for  seventy-five  miles 
through  immense  pine  forests  and  almost  impene- 
trable underbrush,  and  the  only  habitations  to  be  seen 
from  it  are  the  half-way  houses,  erected  for  the  accom- 
modation of  teamsters  who  are  engaged  in  hauling 
Government  supplies,  and  the  occasional  wigwams  of 
wandering  Indians.  It  was  opened  in  1856,  by  James 
Macaboy,  for  the  convenience  of  Indian  agents  and  fur 
traders. 

Fully  equipped  and  with  a  driver  celebrated  for 
his  knowledge  of  the  frontier,  we  commenced  at  eight 
o'clock  on  the  morning  of  July  twelfth  our  wagon 
journey  to  Leech  Lake,  the  third  objective  in  my  ex- 
pedition to  the  head  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  John 
Mouahan,  who  held  the  reins  in  this  seventy-five  mile 
journey  over  one  of  the  roughest  roads  of  Minnesota, 
is  a  true  son  of  Erin,  who  need  not  take  a  back  seat  for 
Hank  Monk,  or  any  of  the  famous  drivers  of  the  border, 
(32) 


THROUGH  THE  CHIPPEWA   COUNTRY.  35 

A  ride  of  between  three  and  four  hours  brought  our 
little  party  to  Gull  Lake,  where  a  halt  was  made  for 
rest  and  refreshments.  Gull  Lake  was  for  many  years 
the  home  and  head-quarters  of  the  noted  Chippewa 
chief,  Hole-in-the-day,  and  was  the  scene  of  many 
sanguinary  struggles  between  his  braves  and  those 
of  the  equally  celebrated  Sioux  chief,  Little  Crow. 
The  remnant  of  a  block  house,  fragments  of  wigwams, 
and  a  few  scattered  graves,  are  all  that  is  now  left  to 
tell  the  tale  of  its  aboriginal  conflicts. 

A  family  of  four  persons,  domiciled  in  a  log-house, 
constitute  the  entire  white  population  of  the  place. 
Reuben  Gray,  the  genial  patriarch  who  presides  over 
this  solitary  household  in  the  wilderness,  delights  in 
the  title  of  landlord,  and  his  hotel  has  become  some- 
what famous  as  one  of  the  pioneer  half-way  houses 
between  Brainerd  and  Leech  Lake. 

Our  arrival  at  Gull  Lake  was  duly  celebrated  by 
launching  a  canoe,  which  soon  returned  with  a  fine 
mess  of  fish.  These,  with  such  fruits  and  vegetables 
as  were  in  season,  afforded  a  dinner  which  our  appe- 
tites, whetted  by  a  forenoon's  jolting  in  a  country 
wagon,  had  fully  prepared  us  to  enjoy. 

After  dinner  we  resumed  our  journey,  with  Pine 
River  as  the  evening  destination.  Sometimes  in  the 
road,  sometimes  out  of  it ;  now  driving  along  the  shore 
of  a  lake,  and  again  over  huge  logs  and  boulders,  it  was 
voted  that  our  ride  to  Pine  River  was  unlike  anything 
we  had  ever  elsewhere  experienced. 

The  ranche  of  George  Barclay,  the  only  white 
habitation  between  Gull  Lake  and  Leech  Lake,  was 
reached  at  five  o'clock  in  the  evening.  Here  we  were 
most  agreeably  surprised  to  find  very  good  accommo- 


36  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

dations  for  both  man  and  beast.  Barclay  is  a  decided 
favorite  with  the  Indians,  and  his  prosperity  in  this 
isolated  corner  of  Minnesota  is  largely  due  to  his 
friendly  relations  with  them.  He  is  always  supplied 
with  guns,  knives,  beads,  tobacco,  and  such  other  goods 
as  are  in  demand  by  his  dusky  neighbors,  for  which 
he  receives  in  exchange  furs,  game,  snake-root,  and 
such  other  products  of  the  forest  as  find  a  readv  mar- 
ket at  Brainerd  or  Saint  Paul. 

Much  valuable  information  was  obtained  at  Pine 
Hiver  concerning  our  route  to  Leech  Lake  and  beyond, 
the  peculiar  traits  and  characteristics  of  the  Indians 
whom  we  were  likely  to  encounter,  and  those  persons 
at  the  Agency  who  could  be  of  most  service  to  us. 

An  excellent  breakfast  on  the  following  morning, 
with  the  prospect  of  reaching  Leech  Lake,  put  my 
little  party  in  the  most  exuberant  spirits  for  the 
day ;  and  nothing  but  jolting  over  one  of  the  most 
indifferent  and  rugged  roads  I  have  ever  encountered 
could  have  lessened  the  enjoyment  of  our  journey.  A 
short  halt  was  made  for  lunch  at  Fourteen  Mile  Lake. 
This  was  our  first  meal  in  the  open  air,  and  enabled  us 
to  gauge  more  accurately  our  supply  of  rations.  It 
was  readily  discovered  that  we  should  need  at  least  a 
third  more  provisions  per  diem  for  our  expedition  than 
would  be  required  for  the  ordinary  occupations  of 
indoor  life;  and  I  at  once  decided  to  provide  an  ad- 
ditional supply  of  bacon  and  dried  meats  before  pass- 
ing the  Indian  Agency. 

After  lunch  my  brother  and  Mr.  Paine  took  a  bath 
in  the  lake,  while  I  found  amusement  in  duck-shooting 
and  chatting  with  some  straggling  Chippewas,  who 
were  about  launching  their  canoes  for  a  six  weeks'  hunt- 


THROUGH  THE  CHIPPEWA    COUNTRY.  37 

ing  and  fishing  excursion.  These  were  the  first  birch- 
bark  canoes  I  had  seen,  and  were  regarded  with  consider- 
able interest,  as  they  were  indispensable  to  the  success 
of  our  undertaking.  Curiosity  led  me  to  step  into 
one  of  them,  when  from  want  of  experience  I  was 
precipitated  into  the  lake,  much  to  my  own  discomfort 
and  chagrin,  and  the  amusement  of  the  Indians. 
Being  unable  to  swim,  I  was  congratulated  upon  a 
capsize  in  shallow  water.  Firmly  resolved  upon 
more  caution  in  the  future,  we  continued  our  journey 
towards  Leech  Lake,  which  was  reached  at  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 


rl 


CHAPTER  III. 

HOME  OF  THE  CHIPPEWA8. 

PON  our  arrival  at  Leech  Lake  our  first 
glimpse  of  the  embryonic  red  man  was 
of  a  boy  about  six  years  of  age,  who 
ran  out  of  a  wigwam — his  copper-colored 
skin  unadorned  by  a  single  garment — bran- 
dishing a  bow  in  one  hand,  and  carrying  ar- 
rows in  the  other.  He  was  very  far  from  being 
warlike,  however,  and  on  seeing  his  white  brothers 
suddenly  disappeared  in  the  bushes.  A  little  further 
on  we  came  to  several  wigwams,  and  finally  to  a  log- 
cabin,  over  the  door  of  which  was  nailed  a  pine  board, 
bearing  the  inscription,  "  HOTEL."  Here  we  were 
received  by  a  rough-looking  man  with  long  hair  and 
unkempt  beard,  and  wearing  in  addition  to  his  one  other 
article  of  clothing  a  pair  of  pants  made  from  a  red 
blanket. 

The  prospect  was  certainly  not  an  inviting  one,  and 
no  reason  was  found  for  forming  a  more  favorable 
opinion  when  we  had  alighted  and  inspected  his 
squalid  accommodations.  But  as  the  government 
officials  were  away  from  the  post,  we  accepted  the 
situation,  and  as  graciously  as  possible  placed  our 
names,  figuratively  speaking,  on  the  register  of  the 
Weaver  House.  We  fared  much  better  than  we  ex- 
(38) 


HO  ME  OF  THE  CUIPPEWAS.  39 

• 

pected,  however,  dining  on  fresh  fish  and  potatoes. 
Our  supper  and  breakfast  were  selected  from  the  same 
bill  of  fare,  varied  by  the  addition  of  "  flap-jacks." 
As  a  substitute  for  tenantable  beds  we  swung  our  ham- 
mocks from  the  rafters  of  the  loft. 

This  lake  is  one  of  the  most  peculiarly  shaped 
bodies  of  water  that  I  remember  ever  to  have  looked 
upon.  Its  characteristics  are  most  striking,  presenting 
an  array  of  curves,  peninsulas  and  bays  rarely  encoun- 
tered even  in  a  State  which  boasts  of  ten  thousand  lakes. 
Ten  islands  are  found  within  its  bosom,  and  seven 
rivers  and  creeks  enter  it  from  various  quarters. 
It  extends  from  north  to  south  not  less  than  twenty 
miles,  and  from  east  to  west  a  still  greater  distance, 
with  a  coast  line  of  nearly  four  hundred  miles.  Its 
waters  are  deep  and  clear  in  all  its  central  parts,  and 
yield  the  white  fish,  bass,  pickerel  and  other  species. 
The  banks  of  its  numerous  and  extensive  bays  abound 
in  wild  rice,  and  attract  in  the  proper  season  a  great 
variety  of  water  fowl.  The  pelican,  swan,  brant  and 
cormorant  are  the  largest  of  the  varieties  that  annually 
visit  it.  On  its  shores  may  be  found  the  elk,  deer  and 
bear.  Beavers  were  formerly  abundant,  but  they  have 
in  a  great  measure  disappeared.  The  mink  and  musk- 
rat  afford  now  the  principal  items  of  its  fine  furs.  Such 
a  lake  in  the  midst  of  a  hunting  and  trapping  country 
is  always  considered  a  place  of  importance,  and  nearly  a 
hundred  years  ago  Canadian  fur  traders  came  through 
the  forests  and  over  the  lakes  and  rivers  from  Mon- 
treal to  establish  a  trading  post  at  this  point. 

For  many  years  Leech  Lake  was  the  seat  of  the 
Chippewa  Indian  Agency,  but  the  latter  is  now  con- 
solidated with  the  White  Earth  and  Red  Lake 
3 


40  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

agencies.  Major  C.  A.  Ruffe  is  at  present  agent  of 
the  three  departments,  with  head-quarters*  at  White 
Earth.  The  village  on  Leech  Lake  consists  of  a 
half  dozen  government  buildings,  as  many  log-cabins, 
and  twenty  or  thirty  wigwams,  scattered  here  and 
there  near  one  of  the  arms  of  the  lake. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  the  agency  was  thrown 
into  a  state  of  excitement  by  the  announcement  that 
Major  Euffe  was  en  route  to  Lake  Winnibegoshish  by 
way  of  Leech  Lake,  and  that  he  was  expected  to  make 
his  advent  on  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day. 
The  Major  was  accompanied  by  Captain  Taylor,  of 
Saint  Cloud,  one  of  the  pioneer  surveyors  of  Minne- 
sota; PauTBeaulieu,  the  veteran  government  interpreter, 
and  White  Cloud,  chief  of  the  Mississippis. 

Major  Ruffe  was  untiring  in  his  efforts  to  relieve 
the  monotony  of  our  sojourn  at  the  Agency,  and  to 
render  our  condition  as  agreeable  as  possible  while 
within  the  boundary  of  his  dominions.  Through 
conversations  with  this  genial  officer  I  learned  much 
of  the  pioneer  history  of  the  post,  and  the  attempts  to 
civilize  the  Pillagers,  as  the  Leech  Lake  Indians 
are  styled.  This  tribe  seems  to  have  seceded  from  the 
other  Chippewas  many  hundred  years  ago,  and  to 
have  assumed  the  responsibility  of  defending  this  por- 
tion of  the  Chippewa  border.  They  "  passed  armed 
before  their  brethren  "  in  their  march  westward. 
Their  geographical  position  was  such  as  to  compel  them 
to  be  always  on  the  alert  and  in  every  emergency,  of 
which  they  have  encountered  no  inconsiderable  num- 
ber, they  have  shown  themselves  capable  of  defending 
their  chosen  position,  and  on  many  trying  occasions 
have  won  admiration  as  brave  and  active  warriors. 


HOME  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.  41 

Thoroughly  accustomed  to  the  practices  of  the 
forest,  they  have  achieved  many  triumphs  over  their 
powerful  enemies,  the  Sioux.  With  a  valor  seldom 
equaled  and  never  surpassed,  the  Pillagers,  with  smaller 
numbers,  have,  on  occasions  neither  few  nor  unimpor- 
tant, fallen  upon  their  enemies  and  vanquished  them 
with  a  resolution  characteristic  of  Spartan  heroes.  It  is 
not  easy  on  the  part  of  the  Government  to  repress  the 
feelings  of  hostility  which  have  so  long  existed,  and 
to  convince  them  that  they  have  lived  into  an  age 
when  milder  maxims  furnish  the  basis  of  wise  action. 
Pacific  counsels  fall  with  little  power  upon  a  people 
situated  so  remote  from  every  good  influence,  and  who 
cannot  perceive  in  the  restless  spirit  of  their  enemies 
any  safeguard  for  the  continuance  of  a  peace,  however 
formally  it  may  have  been  concluded.  The  fact  was 
adverted  to  by  one  of  their  chiefs,  who  observed  that 
they  were  compelled  to  fight  in  self-defence.  Although 
the  Sioux  had  made  a  solemn  treaty  of  peace  with 
them  at  Tipisagi  in  1825,  they  were  attacked  by  them 
that  very  year,  and  almost  yearly  since  had  sustained 
insidious  or  open  attacks. 

"The  domestic  manners  and  habits  of  a  people  whose 
position  is  so  adverse  to  improvement  could  hardly 
be  expected  to  present  anything  strikingly  different 
from  other  erratic  bands  of  the  Northwest.  There  is 
indeed  a  remarkable  uniformity  in  the  external  habits 
of  all  our  Northern  Indians.  The  necessity  of  chang- 
ing their  camps  often,  to  procure  game  or  fish,  the 
wants  of  domesticated  animals,  the  general  dependence 
on  wild  rice  and  the  custom  of  journeying  in  canoes, 
have  produced  a  general  similarity  of  life.  And  it  is 
emphatically  a  life  of  want  and  vicissitude.  There  is 


42  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

a  perpetual  change  between  action  and  inanity  of 
mind  which  is  a  striking  peculiarity  of  the  savage 
state.  And  there  is  such  a  general  want  of  forecast 
that  most  of  their  misfortunes  and  hardships,  in  war 
and  peace,  come  unexpectedly.  None  of  the  tribes 
who  inhabit  this  quarter  can  be  said  to  have,  thus  far, 
derived  any  peculiarities  from  civilized  instruction. 
The  only  marked  alteration  which  their  state  of 
society  has  undergone  appears  to  be  referable  to  the 
era  of  the  introduction  of  the  fur  trade,  when  they 
were  made  acquainted  with  and  adopted  the  use  of 
iron,  gunpowder  and  woollens.  This  implied  a  con- 
siderable change  of  habits,  and  of  the  mode  of  subsist- 
ence, and  may  be  considered  as  having  paved  the 
way  for  further  changes  in  the  mode  of  living  and 
dress.  But  it  brought  with  it  the  onerous  evil  of 
intemperance,  and  left  the  mental  habits  essentially 
unchanged." 

It  was  a  subject  of  much  regret  that  my  arrival  at 
Leech  Lake  was  at  a  season  when  the  Pillagers  were 
away  upon  their  annual  hunting  and  fishing  excur- 
sions. Their  absence  from  the  Agency,  was  a  serious 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  our  further  progress.  Being 
compelled  to  take  the  final  step  in  my  expedition  to 
the  source  of  the  Mississippi  from  this  point,  it  was 
important  that  I  should  complete  my  equipment  by 
securing  an  interpreter,  reliable  guides  and  birch-bark 
canoes. 

Conversations  with  Flat  Mouth,  head  chief  of  the 
Chippewas,  developed  the  fact  that  he  knew  of  but  one 
Indian  in  the  Chippewa  country  who  had  actually 
traversed  the  region  which  I  was  about  to  explore,  and 
that  he  was  then  visiting  some  friends  near  Lake 


HOME  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.  43 

Winnibegoshish,  and  was  not  expected  to  return  until 
the  following  Saturday,  some  three  days  later. 

Satisfied  that  Chenowagesic  would  prove  indis- 
pensable to  the  success  of  ray  expedition,  I  decided  to 
await  his  return  to  the  Agency,  The  tedium  of  my  so- 
journ at  Leech  Lake  was  broken  by  a  dinner  with 
Flat  Mouth,  a  visit  to  the  missionary,  and  conversa- 
tions with  Paul  Beaulieu  concerning  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi. 

Although  for  many  years  I  had  been  much  among 
the  natives  of  the  forest,  my  dinner  with  Flat  Mouth 
was  the  first  instance  of  a  meal  with  Indian  royalty. 
Flat  Mouth,  the  present  ruler  of  the  Pillagers,  is  a 
descendant  of  Aish-ki-bug-ekozh,  the  most  famous  of 
all  the  Chippewa  chiefs.  He  is  stalwart  in  appear- 
ance, and  is  endowed  with  talents  which  certainly  en- 
title him  to  this  distinction.  Having  accepted  his 
invitation  to  dinner,  I  went  to  his  residence  at  the  ap- 
pointed hour,  accompanied  by  my  brother.  I  found 
him  living  in  a  comfortable  log-house  of  two  rooms, 
well  floored  and  roofed,  with  a  couple  of  small  glass 
windows.  A  plain  board  table  stood  in  the  centre  of 
the  front  room,  upon  which  the  dinner  was  spread. 
Pine  board  benches  were  placed  on  each  side  of  the 
table  and  at  the  ends.  We  followed  the  example  of 
our  host  in  sitting  down.  Five  other  persons,  includ- 
ing his  wife,  were  admitted  to  the  meal.  The  others 
were  White  Cloud,  chief  of  the  Mississippis,and  three 
Chippewa  sub-chiefs. 

The  wife  of  Flat  Mouth  sat  on  his  left  and  waited 
upon  him  and  those  whom  he  had  invited.  Tea- 
cups and  teaspoons  of  plain  manufacture  were  care- 
fully arranged,  the  number  corresponding  exactly  with 


44  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  expected  guests.  A  large  dish  of  bass  and  white 
fish,  cut  up  and  boiled  in  good  taste,  was  placed  in  the 
centre  of  the  table,  from  which  we  were  served.  A 
birch-bark  salt-cellar,  in  which  pepper  and  salt  were 
mixed  in  unequal  proportion,  allowed  each  the  privi- 
lege of  seasoning  his  fish  with  both  or  dispensing  with 
it  altogether.  Our  tea  was  sweetened  with  maple 
sugar.  A  dish  of  blueberries,  picked  on  the  shore  of 
the  lake,  completed  the  dinner. 

I  was  much  gratified  on  this  occasion  by  the  pres- 
ence of  White  Cloud,  whom  I  had  frequently  been 
told  was  the  most  respectable  man  in  the  Chippewa 
country,  and  if  the  term  has  reference  to  his  intellectual 
faculties  and  the  power  of  reaching  correct  deductions 
from  known  premises,  and  the  effect  which  these  have 
had  on  his  standing  and  influence  with  his  own  tribe, 
it  is  not  misplaced.  Shrewdness  and  quickness  of  per- 
ception most  of  the  chiefs  possess;  but  there  is  more 
of  the  character  of  common-sense  and  practical  reflec- 
tion in  White  Cloud's  remarks  than  I  remember  to 
have  noticed  in  any  of  the  chiefs  of  my  acquaintance. 
In  early  life  this  chief  was  both  warrior  and  counselor, 
and  these  distinctions  he  held  not  from  any  hereditary 
right,  but  from  the  force  of  his  own  genius.  I  found 
him  most  agreeable  in  conversation  and  well  informed 
upon  those  subjects  which  were  of  most  interest  to  him. 
The  sentiments  to  which  he  gave  expression  were  such  as 
would  naturally  occur  to  a  mind  which  had  possessed 
itself  of  facts  and  was  quite  capable  of  discussing  them. 
His  bearing  was  grave  and  dignified,  and  his  oratory 
such  as  to  render  him  popular  wherever  heard.  While 
at  dinner  the  room  became  filled  with  Indians,  ap- 
parently the  relatives  and  intimate  friends  of  Flat 


HOME  OF  THE  CHIPPEWA8.  45 

Mouth,  who  seated  themselves  orderly  and  quietly 
upon  the  floor.  On  rising  from  the  table  White 
Cloud  addressed  me  a  few  moments  upon  the  objects  of 
my  expedition. 

He  expressed  regret  that  his  white  brothers  had 
been  so  long  in  ignorance  of  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  said,  although  he  had  not  himself  seen  the 
head  of  the  Great  River,  there  were  many  braves  of 
his  tribe  who  were  familiar  with  its  location.  He 
hoped  I  had  come  thoroughly -prepared  to  explore  the 
country  beyond  Lake  Itasca,  and  that  I  would  not 
return  to  my  friends  until  I  had  found  the  true 
source  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  Continuing,  he 
said :  "  I  am  told  that  Chenowagesic,  the  Chippewa 
warrior,  will  accompany  you.  He  is  a  good  hunter 
and  a  faithful  guide.  He  can  supply  you  with  game, 
and  paddle  your  canoe.  The  Chippewas  are  your 
friends,  and  will  give  you  shelter  in  their  wigwams." 

"  Find  Rev.  Edwin  Benedict  as  soon  as  you  reach 
Leech  Lake,"  was  the  last  injunction  I  received  on 
leaving  Brainerd.  Mr.  Benedict  is  one  of  the  five 
missionaries  of  the  Episcopal  Church  on  the  Chippewa 
Reservation,  and  holds  his  commission  from  Bishop 
Whipple,  of  Minnesota.  With  this  pleasant  gentle- 
man I  spent  the  greater  share  of  my  time  while  at 
the  Agency,  when  not  engaged  in  preparations  for  my 
journey.  The  courtesy  of  a  civilized  bed,  and  a  table 
with  paper,  pens  and  ink,  were  luxuries  which  will 
not  soon  pass  from  my  memory. 

Paul  Beaulieu,  the  half-breed  interpreter  to  Major 
Ruffe,  possesses  a  fund  of  information  concerning  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  which  cannot  be  consistently  ig- 
nored by  those  who  are  in  pursuit  of  its  mysterious 


46  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

source;  and  I  considered  myself  most  fortunate  in 
meeting  him  before  my  departure  for  Lake  Itasca. 

Beaulieu  deserves  more  than  a  passing  mention,  as 
lie  is  a  man  of  large  experience,  and  is  well  known 
throughout  Minnesota,  and  in  some  circles  through- 
out the  country.  He  was  born  at  Mackinaw,  while 
General  Sibley  was  stationed  there  in  the  interest  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  of  which  John  Jacob 
Astor  was  then  the  head.  His  father  was  a  French- 
man, and  his  mother  an  Indian.  He  received  a  liberal 
education  partly  in  the  Government  school  at  Macki- 
naw and  partly  at  Montreal.  On  leaving  school  he 
was  employed  by  the  Fur  Company  and  sent  all  over 
the  United  States,  from  the  Saint  Lawrence  to  Lower 
California.  He  crossed  the  continent  with  the  Stevens 
party  on  the  first  Northern  Pacific  survey,  and  rendered 
such  valuable  services  that  he  was  presented  a  testi- 
monial in  recognition  of  his  efficiency. 

Beaulieu  had  a  theory  of  his  own  regarding  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  based  upon  the  stories  of 
Indians  of  his  acquaintance.  Referring  to  this  sub- 
ject, he  said  that  to  the  west  of  Lake  Itasca  there  was 
another  lake,  the  outlet  of  which  unites  with  the 
stream  from  the  former  lake,  and  which  contributes  a 
much  larger  volume  of  water  at  the  junction  than  the 
outlet  of  Itasca.  He  therefore  assumed  that  this 
nameless  and  almost  unknown  lake  was  the  true 
source  of  the  Mississippi. 

In  corroboration  of  the  Beaulieu  theory,  Major 
Ruffe  said  that  he  had  heard  the  same  idea  expressed 
by  a  number  of  old  Indian  voyageurs.  It  will  thus 
be  seen  that  there  was  a  great  diversity  of  opinion 
among  the  best  informed  authorities  as  to  the  actual 
source  of  the  Great  River. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

EXPLORATION   AND   DISCOVERY. 


I 


PON  the  return  of  Chenovvagesic  and 
other  Indians  a  council  was  held,  and 
my  object  stated  to  them.  They  were 
requested  to  delineate  maps  of  the  country, 
and  to  furnish  an  interpreter,  guides  and 
canoes.  Chenowagesic  said  :  "  My  brother, 
the  country  you  are  going  to  visit  is  ray  hunting 
ground.  I  have  hunted  there  many  years,  and 
planted  corn  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Itasca.  My  father, 
now  an  old  man,  remembers  the  first  white  chief 
who  came  to  look  for  the  source  of  the  Great  River. 
But,  my  brother,  no  white  man  has  yet  seen  the 
head  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  I  will  myself  furnish 
the  maps  you  have  called  for,  and  will  guide  you 
onward.  There  are  many  lakes  and  rivers  in  the 
way,  but  the  waters  are  favorable.  I  will  talk  with 
my  friends  about  the  canoes,  and  see  who  will  step 
forward  to  furnish  them.  My  own  canoe  shall  be  one 
of  the  number." 

But  a  few  hours  were  required  to  complete  the 
maps,  and  on  the  following  morning,  July  seventeenth, 
three  Chippewas,  including  Chenowagesic,  brought 
each  a  canoe  and  laid  it  down  on  the  shore  of  the  lake. 

One  other  Chippewa  expressed  a  willingness  to  accom~ 

(49) 


50  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

pany  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kabeknnka  River.  These 
with  Mr.  Paine,  my  brother  and  myself,  and  our  lug- 
gage, were  distributed  equally  in  the  three  canoes 
secured  by  Chenowagesic. 

A  large  number  of  Indians,  most  of  whom  were  the 
relatives  and  friends  of  our  guides,  assembled  near  the 
point  from  which  we  had  decided  to  launch.  The 
wind  blew  briskly  from  the  North,  making  the  surface 
of  the  lake  quite  rough  for  canoe  navigation,  and  it 
was  with  some  distrust  that  we  stepped  gingerly  into 
the  canoes  and  took  our  appointed  positions  at  the 
imminent  risk  of  capsizing  them  by  our  awkwardness. 
The  Indian  guides  took  their  places  at  the  stern,  with 
instructions  to  act  as  pilots.  Rev.  Mr.  Benedict,  who 
accompanied  me  to  the  place  of  embarkation,  now 
stepped  to  the  water's  edge,  and  seizing  the  stern 
of  my  canoe,  gave  us  the  launch.  A  waving  of  hats 
by  way  of  farewell  to  those  who  had  come  down  to  the 
shore  to  see  us  oif,  and  our  birchen  fleet  got  under  way 
and  glided  out  into  the  deep  water  of  the  lake,  pro- 
pelled by  the  lusty  strokes  of  the  voyageurs,  and  our 
own  faint  attempts  in  the  same  direction. 

An  hour's  vigorous  paddling  took  us  across  the  arm 
of  the  lake  on  which  the  Agency  is  situated,  and  then 
a  short  portage  over  a  point  of  land  brought  us  to  a 
much  larger  body  of  water,  where  the  wind  and  the 
waves  had  a  sweep  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles. 
We  coasted  along  the  shore  for  some  distance,  and  then 
headed  directly  across  the  lake  for  the  mouth  of  the 
Kabekanka  River.  The  waves  ran  high,  and  our 
canoes  rose  lightly  on  them,  sinking  again  with  a 
swash  into  the  trough,  and  splashing  the  water  over 
our  bows.  Gradually  we  became  somewhat  accustomed 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY.  51 

to  tills,  and  gained  sufficient  confidence  to  gaze  around 
at  the  broad  expanse  of  lake  and  sniff  the  fresh  and 
invigorating  breeze  which  at  the  outset  had  caused  us 
so  much  uneasiness. 

Between  two  and  three  hours  of  persistent  work  with 
our  paddles  brought  us  to  an  inlet  through  which  the 
Kabekanka  empties ;  and,  forcing  our  way  through 
the  rushes,  with  which  its  mouth  is  filled,  we  ascended 
the  stream,  and  at  about  eleven  o'clock  came  upon  a 
small  lake  formed  by  an  expansion  of  the  river. 

Paddling  to  the  upper  end  of  it,  we  landed,  and,  hav- 
ing built  a  fire,  had  our  first  meal  in  the  open  air. 
Re-embarking,  we  continued  our  course  up  the  Kabe- 
kanka. As  we  ascended,  the  river  became  narrower  and 
swifter,  and  the  wild  rice  which  at  first  filled  its  shallow 
bed  gave  place  to  snags  and  driftwood,  through  which 
it  was  almost  impossible  to  force  our  canoes.  We  had 
nearly  reached  the  conclusion  that  we  could  go  no 
farther  in  the  canoes,  when  we  came  to  what  seemed  to 
be  a  pond  of  still  water  filled  with  rushes.  This 
pond,  we  soon  discovered,  was  the  outlet  of  a  large  and 
beautiful  lake  not  less  than  seven  miles  long,  into 
whose  tranquil  waters  we  burst  with  a  shout  of  glad- 
ness. 

The  sun  was  now  well  down  towards  the  western 
horizon,  and  the  question  of  supper  and  a  camp-ground 
began  to  agitate  the  minds  of  my  companions.  Con- 
tinuing our  course,  we  paddled  slowly  up  the  lake, 
trolling  for  fish  as  we  prospected  for  a  suitable  spot  on 
which  to  pitch  our  tents.  A  model  camp-ground  was 
soon  located  on  a  bluff  near  the  lake,  wooded  with 
Norway  pines,  and  sloping  rather  abruptly  to  the 
water. 


52  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Our  trolling  was  rewarded  with  a  fine  mess  of 
pickerel ;  so  we  landed  at  once,  and  the  fire  of  our 
first  camp  was  soon  crackling  merrily.  The  guides 
prepared  supper,  while  my  brother  and  Paine  pitched 
tents  and  swung  their  hammocks  among  the  pines. 

The  zest  with  which  we  relished  our  supper  of  fish, 
enhanced  by  the  addition  of  canned  dainties  from  the 
civilized  world,  can  readily  be  imagined ;  and  as  we 
smoked  the  pipe  of  contentment  under  the  shelter  of 
the  grand  old  pines,  we  felt  that  the  hardships  which 
had  been  predicted  for  our  voyage  had  been  greatly 
magnified.  After  discussing  the  events  of  the  day, 
we  retired  to  our  tents,  or  rather  were  driven  thither 
by  clouds  of  mosquitoes  which,  ignoring  the  smoke 
of  our  camp-fire,  began  their  onslaughts  as  soon  as  the 
light  of  day  disappeared.  Paine  attempted  to  find 
peaceful  slumber  in  his  hammock,  but  was  soon  sung 
and  stung  into  a  hasty  retreat  to  the  tent  which  George 
had,  with  some  care,  made  mosquito-proof.  A  grand 
mosquito  serenade  was  now  inaugurated,  which  con- 
tinued without  interruption  until  the  sun  appeared 
above  the  lake.  Fortunate,  indeed,  for  us  that  we 
were  beyond  their  reach. 

We  struck  tents  at  break  of  day  on  the  morning  of 
July  eighteenth,  and,  launching  our  canoes,  paddled  to 
the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  where  we  disembarked  and 
had  breakfast. 

Learning  from  Chenowagesic  that  the  Indians  had 
no  name  for  this  beautiful  body  of  water,  I  desig- 
nated it  "  Garfield  "  in  honor  of  our  President,  James 
Abram  Garfield. 

At  the  head  of  Lake  Garfield  we  reached  the  ter- 
minus of  uninterrupted  water  communication,  and  I 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY.  55 

was  informed  by  my  guides  that  a  portage  of  between 
two  and  three  miles  lay  before  us.  In  blissful  ignor- 
ance of  what  a  portage  really  was,  this  announcement 
had  no  terror  for  us,  and  we  gayly  packed  our  traps  • 
into  convenient  bundles  for  carrying.  The  Indians 
had,  in  the  meantime,  prepared  packs  for  themselves 
weighing  upwards  of  a  hundred  pounds,  which  they 
rolled  in  their  blankets  and  secured  with  a  strap  which 
was  passed  over  the  forehead,  allowing  the  pack  to  rest 
on  their  shoulders.  On  top  of  this  they  each  placed  a 
canoe,  bottom  upwards,  resting  it  on  the  pack  by 
means  of  a  cross-bar,  and  thus  loaded  started  through 
what  seemed  to  us  a  trackless  forest. 

Following  the  lead  of  our  guides,  we  shouldered  our 
guns  and  kept  up  as  best  we  could,  for  their  pace  at 
times  increased  almost  to  a  run.  The  undergrowth 
was  so  dense  that  wre  could  not  see  where  to  put  our 
feet,  and  were  only  guided  by  the  white  bottoms  of 
the  canoes  in  front  of  us.  On  we  went,  up  hill  and 
down,  over  logs  and  through  bogs,  barking  our  shins, 
scratching  our  faces  on  the  rough  limbs,  panting  for 
breath,  the  perspiration  flowing  in  rivulets  from  every 
pore,  and  bitten  by  countless  mosquitoes,  until  it 
seemed  that  we  could  proceed  no  farther;  still  the 
guides  trotted  along  with  Their  burdens,  showing  not 
the  least  sign  of  fatigue.  At  last,  however,  as  we 
were  about  to  drop  from  sheer  exhaustion,  the  guides 
halted  and  deposited  packs  and  canoes  on  the  ground, 
rolled  out  from  under  them,  and,  after  a  smile  at  us, 
began  picking  blueberries  which  were  found  in  great 
abundance  near  by.  As  for  myself  and  white  com- 
panions, we  threw  ourselves  down  almost  breathless, 
without  even  energy  enough  to  fight  the  mosquitoes. 


56  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Eager  to  reach  higher  ground,  we  again  shouldered 
our  luggage,  and  were  soon  on  the  trail  following  in 
the  footsteps  of  Chenowagesic.  Pushing  rapidly  for- 
ward, we  gained  the  top  of  a  hill  at  eleven  o'clock, 
where  we  halted  for  rest  and  refreshment.  Being  out 
of  mosquito  range  in  this  elevated  region,  we  spent  a 
few  hours  very  pleasantly  while  the  guides  served  din- 
ner and  carried  the  canoes  and  luggage  forward  to  the 
next  lake. 

As  soon  as  we  were  sufficiently  recovered  from  the 
fatigues  of  the  morning,  we  returned  to  the  trail  which 
had  been  our  line  of  march  since  leaving  Lake  Gar- 
field.  On  descending  the  hill  we  were  again  beset  by 
clouds  of  mosquitoes — in  short,  to  parody  Tennyson, 
there  were 

Mosquitoes  to  right  of  us, 
Mosquitoes  to  left  of  us, 
Mosquitoes  all  around  us, 
Singing  and  stinging. 

A  few  rods  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  came  to  a 
lake,  the  first  of  a  chain  of  five  lakes  having  for  their 
outlet  a  small  river  known  to  the  Indians  as  the  Gabe- 
kanazeba,  which  in  Chippewa  means  portage. 

Once  more  on  the  water,  we  pulled  through  three 
lakes  alternated  by  as  many  portages,  and  at  night  en- 
camped on  the  shore  of  a  fourth  lake.  On  the  follow- 
ing morning  we  were  astir  at  dawn.  Had  breakfast 
at  sunrise,  and  by  seven  o'clock  were  again  in  our 
canoes  paddling  toward  Itasca.  The  fifth  and  last  of 
the  portage  chain  was  reached  at  ten  o'clock.  Learn- 
ing from  my  guides  that  these  beautiful  lakes  had 
never  before,  to  their  knowledge,  been  seen  by  white 
men,  I  named  them  successively  Bayard,  Stoneman, 
Plea-santon,  Custer  and  Kilpatrick,  as  a  tribute  to  the 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY.  57 

favorite  Union  cavalry  leaders  of  the  late  war — patriot 
soldiers  who  deserve  well  of  their  country,  and  to 
whose  calls  I  had  often  responded  in  the  campaigns  of 
the  Army  of  the  Potomac. 

After  crossing  Lake  Kilpatrick  another  string  of 
portages  was  encountered,  aggregating  for  the  day  no 
less  than  eight,  alternating  with  as  many  lakes,  all 
small,  some  of  them  being  little  more  than  ponds,  ex- 
cept three  which  terminate  the  portage  chain.  Con- 
tinuing my  cavalry  column,  I  named  these  three  lakes, 
which  are  fine  bodies  of  water,  successively  Gregg, 
Davies  and  Sheridan  ;  after  General  Gregg  of  Penn- 
sylvania, under  whom  I  served  for  a  short  period 
during  the  Gettysburg  campaign  ;  General  Davies  of 
New  York,  on  whose  recommendation  I  received  my 
first  commission,  and  who  rose  from  the  rank  of  a 
major  in  my  old  regiment,  the  Harris  Light  Cavalry, 
to  that  of  major-general  and  the  command  of  the 
Cavalry  Corps  under  Grant;  and  after  that  true 
knight  of  cavalry,  Lieutenant-General  Philip  Henry 
Sheridan,  hero  of  Cedar  Creek  and  Five  Forks. 

Towards  evening  we  reached  the  largest  sheet  of 
water  between  Leech  Lake  and  Lake  Itasca,  the  In- 
dian name  of  which  translated  is  Blue  Snake  Lake. 
We  crossed  this  lake  at  a  point  where  its  width  is 
about  five  miles,  and  carried  our  canoes  to  the  summit 
of  a  narrow  strip  of  land  which  separates  it  from 
another  lake  of  less  than  half  its  size.  Here,  as  else- 
where during  our  journey  and  voyage  through  Min- 
nesota, we  found  blueberries  in  great  abundance,  and 
it  was  with  much  difficulty  that  I  persuaded  my  com- 
panions to  perform  their  duties  before  they  had  satis- 
fied their  cravings  for  this  delicious  fruit. 


58  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

As  soon  as  we  had  decided  upon  a  camp-ground, 
Paine  and  Chenowagesic  pitched  tents,  my  brother 
launched  his  canoe  in  quest  of  fish,  while  Moses  La- 
gard,  the  interpreter,  and  his  half-brother  Sebatise  pre- 
pared supper. 

After  attending  to  the  duties  of  the  camp,  I  went 
down  to  the  lake  which  we  had  just  crossed,  and 
strolled  along  the  white  sand  beach  of  its  western 
shore.  Tracks  of  the  wolf  and  deer  were  frequently 
seen  in  the  sand — the  first  evidences  of  wild  game  in 
our  journey.  Retracing  my  steps  I  met  George,  who 
was  just  returning  with  a  fine  mess  of  bass,  which, 
with  corned  beef  and  a  small  quantity  of  bread  sup- 
plied by  Lagard,  afforded  us  an  excellent  meal,  which 
all  were  fully  prepared  to  enjoy. 

The  mosquitoes,  our  inveterate  enemies,  did  not 
neglect  us  here.  On  the  contrary,  they  began  their 
nightly  orgies  upon  the  going  down  of  the  sun  ;  where- 
upon we  dampened  the  ardor  of  their  spirits  in  a  meas- 
ure by  throwing  a  cordon  of  subdued  fires  entirely 
around  our  little  camp  at  intervals  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  feet.  We  now  enjoyed  the  alternative  of  endur- 
ing the  smoke  within  the  camp  or  fighting  the  mosqui- 
toes without. 

Next  morning  we  had  breakfast  at  five  o'clock,  struck 
tents  at  six,  and  a  few  moments  later  launched  our 
canoes  upon  the  beautiful  lake  which  is  a  companion 
to  the  one  we  had  crossed  the  previous  evening.  The 
first  and  largest  of  these  lakes  I  called  George,  after 
my  brother  George,  of  Chicago,  who  accompanied  me 
from  Brainerd  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  and 
thence  to  La  Crosse  in  my  descent  of  the  river ;  the 
other  I  named  Paine,  after  my  constant  companion, 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY.  59 

Barrett  Charming  Paine,  of  Indianapolis,  Indiana,  who 
stood  at  its  head,  drank  from  its  farthest  springs,  and 
subsequently  shared  the  privations,  dangers  and  tri- 
umphs of  my  canoe  voyage  down  the  Great  River  to 
the  sea. 

Crossing  Lake  Paine,  we  made  another  portage  of 
half  a  mile,  which  brought  us  to  a  small  river  known 
among  the  Chippewas  as  the  Naiwa.  Chenowage- 
sic  explained  that  the  Naiwa  was  a  stream  of  consider- 
able length,  having  its  origin  in  a  lake  which  is  in- 
fested with  snakes,  to  which  its  name  has  reference. 
This  lake  I  called  Chenowagesic,  after  my  faithful 
guide,  and  its  outlet,  the  Naiwa,  I  denominated  Lagard 
Kiver,  in  honor  of  our  interpreter. 

We  descended  Lagard  River  between  five  and  six 
miles,  and  then  portaged  westward  to  another  small 
river,  with  which  it  unites  a  few  miles  below.  We 
found  the  new  stream  more  decidedly  marshy  in  the 
character  of  its  shores,  but  not  presenting  in  its  plants 
or  trees  anything  to  distinguish  it  particularly  from 
the  Lagard.  The  water  is  still  and  pond-like.  It 
presents  some  small  areas  of  wild  rice,  and  appears  to 
be  a  favorite  resort  for  the  duck  and  teal,  which  fre- 
quently rose  up  before  us,  and  were  aroused  again  and 
again  by  our  progress. 

Four  hours  of  energetic  paddling  brought  us  to  the 
foot  of  a  lake  where  we  halted  a  few  moments  to  sur- 
vey. This  lake  presents  a  broad  border  of  aquatic 
plants  with  somewhat  blackish  waters.  It  is  the 
recipient  of  two  brooks  and  may  be  considered  as  the 
source  of  the  Eastern  fork  of  the  Mississippi. 

While   passing   through  the   lake   we   caine   upon 

several  broods  of  mallard  ducks,  and  my  companions 
4 


60  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

were  not  slow  in  testing  their  fowling  pieces.  A 
broadside  from  rifle,  shot-gun  and  revolver  was 
simultaneously  opened,  but,  much  to  the  chagrin  of 
those  who  fired,  only  one  duck  was  killed.  The 
water  fowl  encountered  here  seem  to  exult  in  their 
seclusion,  and  evinced  the  infrequency  of  intrusion  by 
flying  a  short  distance  and  alighting  within  range  of 
our  fire-arms. 

We  were  about  twenty  minutes  in  traversing  this 
lake,  which  I  named  Elvira,  in  memory  of  my  eldest 
sister.  Entering  one  of  the  brooks  at  its  southern  end 
we  paddled  up  stream  about  thirty  or  forty  rocls,  when 
we  appeared  to  be  involved  in  a  morass  where  it  seemed 
difficult  either  to  make  the  land  or  advance  further. 
In  this  we  \vere  not  mistaken.  Chenowagesic  soon 
pushed  his  canoe  into  the  rushes  and  exclaimed  :  "Oma 
mikunna" — here  is  the  portage.  A  man  who  is 
called  on  for  the  first  time  to  debark  in  such  a  place 
will  cast  about  for  some  dry  spot  to  put  his  feet  upon. 
No  such  spot,  however,  existed  here.  We  stepped  into 
rather  warm  pond-water,  with  a  miry  bottom.  After 
wading  a  hundred  yards  or  more  the  soil  became  firm, 
and  we  began  to  ascend  a  slight  elevation,  where  the 
growth  partook  more  of  the  character  of  a  forest.  Traces 
of  a  path  appeared  here,  and  we  suddenly  entered  an 
opening  which  afforded  an  eligible  place  for  landing. 
Evidences  of  former  fires,  the  bones  of  birds,  and 
scattered  camp-poles  indicated  that  it  had  previously 
been  visited  by  Indians,  whose  migratory  and  undo- 
mesticated  habits  are  of  a  character  to  create  in  the 
mind  a  suspicion  of  their  determination  never  to  be- 
come civilized  and  stationary. 

Having    ascended    this    fork    of    the    Mississippi 


EXPLORA  TlOtf  AXD  DISCO  VER  Y.  63 

to  its  source,  it  may  be  noted  that  it  has  not  as 
yet  been  given  a  place  as  a  separate  river  in  our 
geography.  None  of  the  maps  indicate  the  ultimate 
separation  of  the  Mississippi  above  Lake  Bemidji  into 
two  forks.  It  is  a  matter  of  much  surprise  that  this 
river  should  have  been  kept  so  long  in  darkness, 
especially  when  we  consider  the  fact  that  its  presence 
was  known  to  white  men  nearly  fifty  years  ago.  I 
christened  it  De  Soto  River,  as  a  tribute  to  the  dis- 
coverer of  the  Mississippi,  who  though  he  failed  to 
find  gold  and  glory  in  the  great  valley  which  had 
lured  him  through  the  American  wilderness,  rendered 
a  valuable  contribution  to  the  geographical  knowl- 
edge of  the  sixteenth  century. 

The  sun  was  rapidly  sinking  behind  the  hills  as  we 
reached  dry  land,  and  being  nearly  exhausted  by  the 
portages  of  the  day,  and  in  want  of  refreshment,  a 
camp-ground  was  at  once  decided  upon,  and  prepara- 
tions for.  supper  begun. 

It  was  at  this  point  that  we  first  discovered  a 
deficiency  in  our  supply  of  rations.  At  the  outset  we 
counted  largely  upon  our  fire-arms  and  fishing-tackle 
to  reinforce  our  bacon  and  canned  meats;  thus  far, 
however,  but  one  duck  had  been  killed,  and,  as  com- 
pared with  our  former  estimates,  but  few  fish  had 
been  caught.  Then,  as  a  climax  to  our  embarrass- 
ments, my  brother  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  the 
trolling  hooks  and  nearly  all  the  ammunition  while 
passing  through  a  bog  in  the  last  portage.  Much 
powder  and  ball  had  also  been  consumed  by  my 
white  companions,  who  sought  to  test  their  marks- 
manship upon  every  animate  object  along  our  line  of 
march.  A  strict  adherence  to  truth  compels  me  to 


G4  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

say  that  up  to  this  time,  much  to  their  chagrin,  the 
entire  outlay  of  ammunition  resulted  in  caging  but  the 
one  duck  previously  alluded  to. 

We  were  now  not  less  than  seven  days  from  the 
trading  post  at  Cass  Lake,  and  with  only  about  two 
days'  rations.  Not  even  an  Indian  could  be  found  in 
that  lonely  region  with  whom  to  parley  for  food.  It 
may  be  safely  concluded  that  before  we  retired  to  our 
tents  that  night  we  looked  our  project  squarely  in  the 
face.  Despatch  in  our  onward  progress  was  earnestly 
recommended.  An  equal  distribution  of  rations,  and 
the  most  rigid  economy  in  the  use  of  ammunition, 
was  also  insisted  upon. 

A  dense  fog  which  completely  enveloped  the  swamp 
in  our  immediate  front  prevented  our  getting  upon 
the  trail  until  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  July 
twenty-first,  and  it  was  even  then  impossible  to  distin- 
guish objects  at  a  distance  of  twenty  yards.  While  wait- 
ing for  the  fog  to  raise,  a  small  flock  of  pigeons  dropped 
into  the  tops  of  some  tall  pines  near  by.  George  and 
Paine  were  inclined  to  observe  their  usual  practice  of 
discharging  their  fire-arms ;  but,  as  I  considered  the 
pigeons  out  of  range,  I  reminded  them  that  no  more 
ammunition  could  be  thrown  away  upon  uncertainties. 

The  distance  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  branch 
of  the  Mississippi  is  between  six  and  seven  miles. 
Beginning  in  a  marsh  the  portage  soon  reaches  a  slight 
elevation  covered  with  a  growth  of  cedar,  spruce, 
white  pine  and  tamarack;  then  plunges  into  a  swamp 
matted  with  fallen  trees,  obscured  by  moss.  From  the 
swamp  the  trail  emerges  upon  dry  ground,  whence  it 
soon  ascends  an  elevation  of  oceanic  sand,  presenting 
}  ulders  and  bearing  pines.  There  is  then  another 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY.  65 

descent  and  another  elevation.  In  short,  this  portage 
carried  us  over  a  series  of  diluvial  sand-ridges  which 
form  the  height  of  land  between  the  Mississippi  and 
Red  River  of  the  North.  It  may  be  said  that  these 
ridges  constitute  the  table-land  between  the  waters  of 
Hudson's  Bay  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  give  riso 
to  the  remotest  tributaries  of  the  River  Saint  Louis> 
which  through  Lake  Superior  and  its  connecting  chain 
maybe  considered  as  furnishing  the  head-waters  of  the 
Saint  Lawrence.  This  is  unquestionably  the  highest 
land  of  North  America  between  the  Alleghenies  and 
Rocky  Mountains. 

Chenowagesic  led  the  way  while  crossing  this  high- 
land, followed  by  the  other  guides,  each  carrying  as 
usual  a  canoe  and  a  portion  of  the  luggage.  George, 
Paine  and  myself  moved  forward  on  the  trail  in 
Indian  file.  As  soon  as  all  were  in  motion  we  pushed 
rapidly  along,  stopping  occasionally  for  rest.  The 
Chippewas  denominate  each  of  these  stops  opugid- 
jewinon,  or  a  place  of  putting  down  the  burden. 
Thirteen  of  these  halts  were  given  by  Chenowagesic  as 
the  distance  to  Lake  Itasca.  The  trail  is  often  ob- 
scured by  a  dense  undergrowth,  and  requires  the 
precision  of  an  Indian  eye  to  detect  it.  Even  the 
guide  was  sometimes  disconcerted,  and  went  forward 
to  explore.  About  midway  of  the  portage  we  came  to 
a  small  lake,  into  which  we  quickly  put  the  canoes 
and  pulled  for  the  opposite  shore.  The  route  beyond 
was  more  obstructed  by  underbrush.  To  avoid  this 
•we  waded  through  the  margins  of  a  couple  of  ponds, 
near  which  we  observed  old  camp-poles,  indicating 
former  journeys  of  the  Chippewas. 

We  found  the  weather  much  warmer  than  we  had  an- 


66  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

ticipated  for  Northern  Minnesota,  and  not  favorable  to 
much  exertion  in  bird  or  beast.  Several  flocks  of 
pigeons  and  other  birds  common  to  northern  lati- 
tudes were  frequently  observed.  Tracks  of  deer  were 
numerous  in  the  marshes  skirting  the  ponds,  but 
traveling  without  the  precaution  required  in  hunt- 
ing, we  had  no  opportunity  of  seeing  this  animal  in 
the  high  grounds.  Ripe  strawberries  were  found  on 
the  hillsides,  and  a  very  small  species  of  the  rasp- 
berry was  brought  to  me  by  Chenowagesic  at  one 
of  the  resting-places.  The  student  of  botany  would 
consider  the  plants  few  and  of  little  consequence. 

On  turning  out  of  a  thicket  at  the  foot  of  the  last 
elevation,  between  three  and  four  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, our  longing  eyes  rested  upon  the  waters  of 
Lake  Itasca.  A  few  moments  later  we  were  floating 
on  its  placid  bosom,  and,  after  a  pull  of  between  two 
and  three  miles,  reached  Schoolcraft  Island.  This 
island  derives  its  name  from  Henry  Howe  Schoolcraft, 
who  discovered  Itasca  in  1832,  and  located  it  as  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi. 

Hitherto  the  claim  of  Schoolcraft  has  been  unques- 
tioned, and  for  half  a  century  Lake  Itasca  has  enjoyed 
the  honor  of  standing  at  the  head  of  the  Father  of 
Waters.  The  island  is  about  three-quarters  of  an 
acre  in  extent,  and  so  densely  studded  with  under- 
growth that  we  experienced  much  difficulty  in  clearing 
a  place  for  our  tents.  We  found  here  but  two  or 
three  trees  worthy  of  notice,  the  most  prominent  of 
which  was  a  tall,  gray  pine,  and  on  this  Paine  blazed 
our  names  and  the  date  of  our  encampment. 

Itasca  is  in  every  respect  a  beautiful  lake,  between 
five  and  six  miles  in  length,  and  from  one-fourth  to 


EXPL  OR  A  TION  AND  DISCO  VER  Y.  67 

three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width.  It  has  three  arms — 
one  to  the  southeast,  three  miles  long;  one  extending 
to  the  southwest  from  the  island ;  and  one  reaching 
northward  to  the  outlet  two  and  a  half  miles.  Its 
greatest  length  is  from  southeast  to  northwest.  I 
asked  Chenowagesic  the  Chippewa  name  of  this 
lake,  and  he  replied  "Ornushkos,"  which  means  Elk. 
Schoolcraft  tells  us  that  the  word  Itasca  is  derived 
from  the  mythological  and  necromantic  notions  of  the 
Chippewas  concerning  the  origin  and  mutations  of  the 
country. 

We  were  in  no  condition  to  enjoy  our  delightful 
surroundings  at  this  point,  in  consequence  of  the  re- 
duced state  of  our  supplies.  Determined  upon  a 
thorough  exploration  of  the  region  adjacent  to  Lake 
Itasca,  we  were  now  confronted  with  a  subject  for 
serious  consideration.  We  were  at  least  six  days 
from  the  nearest  post  of  relief,  and  entirely  out  of 
rations,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  piece  of  bacon 
and  a  few  pounds  of  flour.  The  trolling-hooks  were 
lost,  and  there  were  but  sixty-five  rounds  of  ammuni- 
tion left.  In  this  dilemma  my  white  companions  fa- 
vored exploration.  The  Indians  preferred  an  imme- 
diate descent  of  the  river. 


CHAPTER  V. 

TRUE  SOURCE   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

'HE  exhausting  portages  of  July  twenty- 
first,  between  the  east  and  west  forks  of 
the  Mississippi,  prepared  us  for  a  sleep 
which    even    the    Minnesota    mosquitoes 
could  not  disturb,  and  which  was  not  broken 
until  long  after  the  sun   was  glinting  upon 
us  through  the  trees  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty- 
second.     Although  I  had  cautioned  the  guides  to 
awaken  me  at  dawn,  I  found  them  snoring  lustily  at 
six  o'clock. 

As  soon  as  all  were  astir,  Chenowagesic  and  the 
Lagards  prepared  breakfast.  George  struck  tents  and 
rolled  the  blankets,  while  Paine  busied  himself  with 
an  article  for  the  Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press,  descriptive 
of  our  voyage  to  Lake  Itasca.  But  little  ceremony 
was  observed  at  breakfast,  which  was  served  with  a 
due  regard  to  our  scant  rations,  and  consisted  of  a 
small  slice  of  bacon  and  a  "flap-jack,"  each  of  very 
meagre  dimensions. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  we  were  now  con- 
fronted with  empty  haversacks  and  nearly  depleted 
cartridge  boxes,  my  companions  were  still  eager  to 
follow  my  lead  in  the  work  of  exploration  beyond 
Itasca,  which,  from  the  beginning,  had  been  the  con- 
(68) 


TRUE  SOURCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  QQ 

trolling  incentive  of  our  expedition,  the  grand  objective 
towards  which  we  bent  all  our  energies.  To  stand  at 
the  SOURCE;  to  look  upon  the  remotest  rills  and 
springs  which  contribute  to  the  birth  of  the  Great 
River  of  North  America;  to  write  finis  in  the  volume 
opened  by  the  renowned  De  Soto,  more  than  three 
hundred  years  ago,  and  in  which  Marquette,  La  Salle, 
Hennepin,  La  Hontan,  Carver,  Pike,  Beltrami, 
Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet  have  successively  inscribed 
their  names,  were  quite  enough  to  revive  the  droop- 
ing spirits  of  the  most  depressed. 

During  our  encampment  on  the  island  Chenowa- 
gesic  again  reminded  me  that  he  had  planted  corn 
there  many  years  before,  and  that  his  wigwam  once 
stood  near  the  spot  where  we  had  pitched  our  tents. 
He  also  repeated  what  he  had  told  me  before  launching 
the  canoes  at  Leech  Lake,  that  the  region  about  Lake 
Itasca  was  his  hunting  ground,  and  that  he  was 
thoroughly  acquainted  with  all  the  rivers,  lakes  and 
ponds  within  a  hundred  miles.  He  further  said  that 
Paul  Beaulieu  was  in  error  concerning  the  source  of 
the  Great  River,  and  led  me  to  conclude  that  the 
primal  reservoir  was  above  and  beyond  Itasca,  and 
that  this  lake  was  simply  an  expansion  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, as  are  Bemidji,  Cass,  Winuibegoshish,  Pepin  and 
several  others. 

Fully  convinced  that  the  statements  of  Chenowa- 
gesic  were  entirely  trustworthy,  and  knowing  from 
past  experience  that  he  was  perfectly  reliable  as  a 
guide,  we  put  our  canoes  into  the  water  at  eight 
o'clock,  and  at  once  began  coasting  Itasca  for  its 
feeders.  We  found  the  outlets  of  six  small  streams, 
two  having  well-defined  mouths,  and  four  filtering 


70  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

into  the  lake  through  bogs.  The  upper  end  of  the 
southwestern  arm  is  heavily  margined  with  reeds  and 
rushes,  and  it  was  not  without  considerable  difficulty 
that  we  forced  our  way  through  this  barrier  into  the 
larger  of  the  two  open  streams  which  flow  into  this 
end  of  the  lake. 

Although  perfectly  familiar  with  the  topography  of 
the  country,  and  entirely  confident  that  he  could  lead 
us  to  the  beautiful  lake  which  he  had  so  often 
described,  Chenowagesic  was  for  several  moments 
greatly  disturbed  by  the  net- work  of  rushes  in  which 
we  found  ourselves  temporarily  entangled.  Leaping 
from  his  canoe,  he  pushed  the  rushes  right  and  left 
with  his  paddle,  and  soon,  to  our  great  delight,  threw 
up  his  hands  and  gave  a  characteristic  "  Chippewa 
yell,"  thereby  signifying  that  he  had  found  the  object 
of  his  search.  Returning,  he  seized  the  bow  of  my 
canoe,  and  pulled  it  after  him  through  the  rushes  out 
into  the  clear,  glistening  waters  of  the  infant  Missis- 
sippi, which,  at  the  point  of  entering  Itasca,  is  seven 
feet  wide,  and  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  deep. 

Lusty  work  with  our  paddles  for  half  an  hour 
brought  us  to  a  blockade  of  fallen  timber.  Determined 

D 

to  float  in  my  canoe  upon  the  surface  of  the  lake 
towards  which  we  were  paddling,  I  directed  the  guides 
to  remove  the  obstructions,  and  continued  to  urge  the 
canoes  rapidly  forward,  although  opposed  by  a  strong 
and  constantly  increasing  current.  Sometimes  we 
found  it  necessary  to  lift  the  canoes  over  logs,  and 
occasionally  to  remove  diminutive  sand-bars  from  the 
bed  of  the  stream  with  our  paddles.  As  we  neared 
the  head  of  this  primal  section  of  the  mighty  river,  we 
could  readily  touch  both  shores  with  our  hands  at 


TRUE  SOURCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  71 

the  same  time,  while  the  average  depth  of  water  in 
the  channel  did  not  exceed  ten  inches. 

Every  paddle  stroke  seemed  to  increase  the  ardor 
with  which  we  were  carried  forward.  The  desire  to 
see  the  actual  source  of  a  river  so  celebrated  as  the 
Mississippi,  whose  mouth  had  been  reached  nearly 
two  centuries  before,  was  doubtless  the  impelling  mo- 
tive. In  their  eagerness  to  obtain  the  first  view  of  the 
beautiful  lake  toward  which  we  were  paddling,  and 
greatly  annoyed  by  the  slow  progress  made  in  the 
canoes,  my  brother  and  Paine  stepped  ashore  and 
proposed  a  race  to  the  crest  of  the  hill  which  Cheno- 
wagesic  told  them  overhung  the  lake.  To  this 
proposition  of  my  companions  I  made  objection,  and 
insisted  that  all  should  see  the  goal  of  our  expedition 
from  the  canoes.  What  had  long  been  sought  at  last 
appeared  suddenly.  On  pulling  and  pushing  our  way 
through  a  net-work  of  rushes,  similar  to  the  one  en- 
countered on  leaving  Itasca,  the  cheering  sight  of  a 
transparent  body  of  water  burst  upon  our  view.  It 
was  a  beautiful  lake — the  SOURCE  of  the  FATHER  OF 
WATERS. 

A  few  moments  later,  and  our  little  flotilla  of  three 
canoes  was  put  in  motion,  headed  for  a  small  prom- 
ontory which  we  discovered  at  the  opposite  end  of 
the  lake.  We  paddled  slowly  across  one  of  the  most 
pure  and  tranquil  bodies  of  water  of  which  it  is  pos- 
sible to  conceive.  Not  a  breath  of  air  was  stirring. 
We  halted  frequently  to  scan  its  shores,  and  to  run 
our  eyes  along  the  verdure-covered  hills  which  enclose 
its  basin.  These  elevations  are  at  a  distance  of  from 
three  to  four  miles,  and  are  covered  chiefly  with  white 
pines,  intermingled  with  the  cedar,  spruce  and  tama- 


72  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

rack.  The  beacli  is  fringed  with  a  mixed  foliage  of 
the  evergreen  species.  At  one  point  we  observed 
pond  lilies,  and  at  another  a  small  quantity  of  wild 
rice. 

As  we  neared  the  headland,  a  deer  was  seen  stand- 
ing on  the  shore,  and  an  eagle  swept  over  our  heads 
with  food  for  its  young,  which  we  soon  discovered 
were  lodged  in  the  top  of  a  tall  pine.  The  waterfowl 
noticed  upon  the  lake  were  apparently  little  disturbed 
by  our  presence,  and  seldom  left  the  surface  of  the 
water. 

This  lake  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  greatest 
diameter,  and  would  be  nearly  an  oval  in  form  but  for 
a  single  promontory  which  extends  its  shores  into  the 
lake  so  as  to  give  it  in  outline  the  appearance  of  a 
heart.  Its  feeders  are  three  small  creeks,  two  of 
which  enter  on  the  right  and  left  of  the  headland,  and 
have  their  origin  in  springs  at  the  foot  of  sand-hills 
from  five  to  six  miles  distant.  The  third  is  but 
little  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  has  no  clearly  de- 
fined course,  and  is  the  outlet  of  a  small  lake  situated 
in  a  marsh  to  the  south  westward.  These  three  creeks 
were  named  in  the  order  of  their  discovery :  Eagle, 
Excelsior  and  Deer.  The  small  lake,  which  is  the 
source  of  Eagle  Creek,  I  called  Alice,  after  my 
daughter. 

Having  satisfied  myself  as  to  its  remotest  feeders,  I 
called  my  companions  into  line  at  the  foot  of  the 
promontory  which  overlooks  the  lake,  and  talked  for  a 
few  moments  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  explorers,  tell- 
ing them  I  was  confident  that  we  were  looking  upon 
the  TRUE  SOURCE  of  the  Great  River,  and  that  we  had 
completed  a  work  begun  by  De  Soto,  in  1541,  and 


TRUE  SOURCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  76 

had  corrected  a  geographical  error  of  half  a  century's 
standing.  Concluding  my  remarks,  I  requested  a 
volley  from  their  fire-arms  for  each  member  of  the 
party,  in  commemoration  of  our  discovery.  When 
the  firing  ceased,  Paine  gave  me  a  surprise,  by  step- 
ping to  the  front  and  proposing  "  that  the  newly  dis- 
covered lake  be  named  Glazier,  in  honor  of  the  leader 
of  the  expedition."  The  proposition  was  seconded 
by  Moses  Lagard,  the  interpreter,  and  carried  by  accla- 
mation, notwithstanding  my  protest  that  it  should 
retain  its  Indian  name,  Po-keg-a-ma. 

Much  to  the  surprise  of  every  one,  as  we  were 
about  closing  our  ceremonies,  Chenowagesic  assumed 
an  oratorical  attitude,  and  addressed  me  as  follows,  in 
a  few  words  of  true  Indian  eloquence.  *'  My  brother, 
I  have  come  with  you  through  many  lakes  and  rivers 
to  the  head  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  The  shores  of 
this  lake  are  ray  hunting-ground.  Here  I  have  had 
my  wigwam  and  planted  corn  for  many  years.  When 
I  again  roam  through  these  forests,  and  look  on  this 
lake,  source  of  the  Great  River,  I  will  look  on  you." 

The  latitude  of  this  lake  is  not  far  from  47°.  Its 
height  above  the  sea  is  an  object  of  geographical 
interest,  which,  in  the  absence  of  actual  survey,  it  may 
subserve  the  purposes  of  useful  inquiry  to  estimate. 
From  notes  taken  during  the  ascent  it  cannot  be  less 
than  three  feet  above  Lake  Itasca.  Adding  the 
estimate  of  1575  feet  submitted  by  Schoolcraft  in 
1832,  as  the  elevation  of  that  lake,  the  Mississippi 
may  be  said  to  originate  in  an  altitude  of  1578  feet 
above  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Taking  former  estimates  as 
the  basis  and  computing  them  through  the  western  fork, 
its  length  may  be  placed  at  3184  miles.  Assuming 


76  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

that  the  barometrical  height  of  its  source  is  1578  feet, 
it  has  a  mean  descent  of  over  six  inches  per  mile. 

At  Lake  Bemidji  the  Mississippi  reaches  its  highest 
northing,  which  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  47°.  The 
origin  of  the  river  in  an  untraveled  and  secluded 
region  between  Leech  Lake  and  the  Red  River  of  the 
North,  not  less  than  a  degree  of  latitude  south  of 
Turtle  Lake,  which  was  for  a  long  time  supposed  to 
be  the  source,  i^emoves  both  forks  of  the  stream  out- 
side the  usual  track  of  the  fur-traders,  and  presents  a 
good  reason,  perhaps,  why  its  fountain-head  has  re- 
mained so  long  enveloped  in  uncertainty. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

DOWN   THE  GREAT   RIVER. 

JFtrst  Pan. 

CAMP  DISCOVERY, 

Ten  Miles  Below  Lake  Itasca, 

July  22,  1881. 

TANDING  at  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, around  which   so   many  beautiful 
Indian  legends  cluster,  and  about  which 
the    white    man    has    ever    had    much 
curiosity,  I  trust  I  felt  a  natural  throb  of 
pride  in  contemplation  of  the  fact  that  at 
least  a  portion  of  my  plan  had  been  successfully 
executed  ;  I  had  also  a  confident  belief  that  the 
future  held  further  good  in  store  for  us. 

All  being  ready,  and  with  the  exclamation,  "Now 
for  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ! "  I  directed  the  canoes  to  be 
put  into  the  water,  and  in  a  moment  more  we  were 
on  our  way  back  to  Lake  Itasca;  our  speed  greatly 
accelerated  by  the  prospect  of  soon  reaching  our 
rations,  which,  for  convenience,  had  been  left  with 
the  luggage  on  Schoolcraft  Island.  This  pull  down 
to  Itasca  \vas  in  reality  the  first  step  in  my  voyage 
from  source  to  sea,  for  as  yet  but  a  small  portion  of 
the  undertaking  had  been  realized.  The  old  ex- 
plorers had  only  navigated  portions  of  the  Great 

(77) 


78  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

River.  It  was  my  purpose  to  descend  its  entire  course 
from  the  remotest  springs  in  the  wilds  of  Minnesota 
to  its  outlet  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  I  desired  to  be- 
come familiar  with  the  most  striking  features  of  the 
Mighty  River,  and  to  study,  through  personal  inter- 
course, the  varying  phases  of  American  life  and 
character  upon  its  banks.  No  one  had  ever  attempted 
this  before,  and  it  is  hardly  probable  that  any  one  will 
ever  attempt  it  again,  for  the  perils  of  a  voyage  of 
over  three  thousand  miles  in  an  open  canoe  are  not 
purely  imaginary.  And  yet  this  was  the  only  way  in 
which  I  could  practically  and  satisfactorily  accom- 
plish my  purpose  of  making  careful  observations 
along  the  route  traversed. 

On  our  way  down  Itasca,  my  brother  improvised  a 
trolling-hook  by  twisting  a  piece  of  wire  from  a  tin 
can  into  the  form  of  a  hook,  and  by  using  a  small 
piece  of  red  flannel  as  a  decoy,  caught  two  fine 
pickerel.  Just  as  we  were  nearing  the  island,  Lagard, 
the  interpreter,  called  my  attention  to  a  bald  eagle 
sitting  on  a  log,  with  a  large,  black  bass  in  his  talons, 
which  he  had  evidently  taken  from  the  water  but  a 
moment  before.  A  shot  from  my  revolver  had  no 
other  effect  than  to  lead  him  to  drop  his  prey,  which, 
with  the  fish  already  caught  by  George,  made  a  most 
acceptable  meal  for  our  little  party,  who  now  began  to 
realize  the  extremity  to  which  we  were  reduced.  A 
few  ounces  of  flour,  and  not  more  than  two  pounds  of 
bacon,  was  at  this  time  the  sum  total  of  our  reserve 
rations ;  and  yet  we  were  seven  days  from  the  nearest 
trading  post. 

Dinner  over  at  the  island,  we  hastily  re-embarked 
and  continued  our  course  down  Itasca.  The  outlet 


BOULDERS  AND  FALLEN  TREES.  79 

lies  to  the  northwest  of  the  island,  and  proved  to  be 
a  brisk  brook,  with  a  mean  width  of  ten  feet,  and  a 
depth  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  inches.  The  water  is 
exceedingly  clear,  and  we  at  once  found  ourselves  glid- 
ing over  a  sandy  and  pebbly  bottom,  strewed  with  the 
scattered  valves  of  shell-fish,  at  a  lively  rate.  Its 
banks  are  overhung  with  limbs  and  branches  covered 
with  foliage,  which  sometimes  reach  across  and  inter- 
lace. The  bends  are  short,  and  have  accumulations 
of  flood  wood,  so  that  we  often  found  it  necessary  to 
clear  a  passage  with  our  axes.  The  Indians  fre- 
quently suggested  a  portage,  to  which  I  invariably 
objected,  being  determined  to  paddle  my  canoe  down 
the  entire  course  of  the  Mississippi  where  possible. 
There  was  constant  danger  of  running  against  boulders 
of  black  rock,  lying  along  the  margin  or  piled  up  in 
the  channel  of  the  stream ;  and  nothing  but  the  most 
strenuous  efforts  on  the  part  of  our  pilots  preserved 
our  canoes  from  immediate  destruction.  As  the  ve- 
locity of  the  current  increased,  we  were  hurled,  as  it 
were,  through  the  narrow  gorges,  and  would  have  de* 
scended  at  a  prodigiously  rapid  rate  had  it  not  been 
for  these  interruptions  to  navigation. 

The  course  of  the  river  was  northwesterly.  After 
descending  about  ten  miles,  it  enters  a  savanna  where 
the  channel  is  wider  and  deeper,  but  equally  irregular. 
This  extends  some  seven  or  eight  miles.  It  then 
breaks  its  way  through  a  pine  ridge,  where  the  channel 
is  again  very  much  confined  and  rapid,  the  rushing, 
tearing  current  threatening  every  moment  to  dash  the 
canoes  into  a  thousand  pieces.  The  pilots  were  often 
in  the  water  to  guide  the  canoes,  or  stood  ever  ready 
with  their  paddles  to  fend  off. 
5 


80  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

We  disembarked  and  pitched  tents  in  a  grove  of 
poplars  on  the  right  bank,  directly  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  first  stream  that  enters  the  Mississippi  below 
Lake  Itasca.  This  tributary  is  evidently  the  one  to 
which  Paul  Beaulieu  referred  in  his  conversation  with 
me  at  Leech  Lake,  and  which  he  supposed  might  lead 
to  the  true  source  of  the  Mississippi.  A  careful  in- 
vestigation established  the  fact  that  Beaulieu  was  in 
error,  and  confirms  the  theory  that  the  lake  located  and 
named  by  our  party  is  the  fountain  head.  Although 
a  small  stream,  I  deemed  it  of  sufficient  importance 
to  be  styled  a  river,  and  bestowed  upon  it  the  name  of 
the  zealous  missionary  and  explorer,  Marquette. 
Marquette  River  is  some  fifteen  miles  in  length,  has 
two  small  tributaries  and  is  the  outlet  of  four  beauti- 
ful lakes  which  I  named  after  Captain  Charles 
Gordinier  Hampton,  of  Detroit,  Michigan ;  Lieu- 
tenant John  Arthur  Richardson,  of  Albany,  New 
York ;  Moses  W.  Lemon,  of  Canton,  New  York,  and 
John  W.  Wright,  of  Des  Moines,  Iowa;  companions 
of  my  imprisonment  and  escapes  during  the  war  of  the 
Rebellion. 

Reflecting  upon  the  Mississippi  and  its  thousand 
tributaries,  it  is  perhaps  but  a  natural  sentiment  that  the 
first  to  enter  and  pay  tribute  is  entitled  to  more  than 
a  passing  notice.  In  its  onward  march,  the  mighty 
river  will  take  to  its  bosom,  among  others,  the  Min- 
nesota, St.  Croix,  Des  Moines,  Wisconsin,  Missouri, 
Illinois,  Ohio,  Yazoo,  Arkansas  and  Red,  all  among 
the  first  rivers  of  the  world,  and  yet  their  position  on 
the  family  tree  is  not  more  important  than  the  little 
Marquette,  which  bears  the  same  relation  to  its  source 
that  the  great  Red  River  does  to  its  mouth.  If  one 


O  UT  OF  HA  TIONS.  8  1 

is  last,  the  other  is  first  to  swell  its  ever  increasing 
flood. 

Our  camp  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Marquette 
will  long  be  remembered  by  my  companions  as  the 
place  where  we  first  felt  the  gnawings  of  hunger,  for 
it  was  here  that  the  last  of  our  rations  was  consumed, 
and  we  retired  to  our  tents  with  appetites  half  satis- 
fied after  a  day  of  unusual  fatigue;  add  to  empty 
haversacks  the  tortures  of  our  inveterate  enemies,  the 
mosquitoes,  and  the  reader  will  have  some  idea  of  our 
situation  at  the  close  of  the  first  day  in  the  descent  of 
the  Mississippi. 


CAMP  OTTER, 

Fifteen  Miles  Below  Marquette  River, 
July  Twenty-third. 

We  struck  tents  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  a  few  moments  later  were  in  our  canoes  and  again 
descending  the  river.  I  immediately  took  position  in 
the  bow  of  the  leading  canoe  with  shotgun  in  hand, 
ready  for  game  of  any  description  which  might  appear 
in  our  front,  for  we  were  now  entirely  destitute  of 
rations,  with  but  little  ammunition,  and  our  fishing 
tackle  in  the  bogs  beyond  Itasca.  It  was  at  once  ap- 
parent that  for  some  days  at  least,  our  explorations 
would  lie  more  in  the  direction  of  food  than  the 
topography  of  the  country.  My  companions  were 
cautioned  to  keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  evidences  of 
animal  life  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  while  the 
guides  were  instructed  to  be  on  the  alert  for  ducks,  as 
the  Chippewas  are  adepts  in  killing  many  varieties 
of  waterfowl  by  means  of  their  paddles. 


82  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

The  same  order  in  our  descent  of  the  river  had 
thus  far  been  adhered  to  which  was  observed  in  the 
voyage  to  Lake  Itasca,  the  stream  being  still  so 
narrow  as  to  necessitate  our  moving  forward  in  In- 
dian file.  Moses  Lagard  continued  with  me  as  pilot 
in  the  first  canoe,  which  had  been  christened  "  Dis- 
covery"  by  Paine.  My  brother  followed  with  Cheno- 
wagesic,  in  the  Alice,  named  after  my  daughter, 
while  Mr.  Paine,  with  Sebatise  Lagard,  brought  up 
the  rear  in  the  Itasca. 

We  had  been  in  our  canoes  but  a  few  moments  when 
my  attention  was  drawn  to  a  slight  ripple  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  water.  An  instant  later  I  saw  a  small, 
black  object  pointing  down  stream  about  twenty 
yards  in  advance  of  my  canoe.  Moses  Lagard  cried 
out  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  "  Shoot  him  !  Shoot  him, 
Captain  ! "  Suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  I  at  once 
fired,  and  a  moment  later  had  the  satisfaction  of  pull- 
ing in  an  otter,  one  of  the  finest  prizes  of  our  voyage; 
and,  as  will  soon  appear,  a  rare  piece  of  good  fortune 
at  this  time.  Although  many  years  before  I  had  been 
counted  something  of  a  trapper,  this  was  the  first  otter 
I  had  seen,  and,  as  may  be  well  supposed,  was  some- 
what elated  with  my  shot  and  trophy.  The  guides 
unanimously  voted  me  a  great  hunter,  as  is  the  custom 
of  the  Chippewas  whenever  a  member  of  their  tribe 
kills  this  animal. 

Turning  a  bend  in  the  river,  a  brood  of  ducks  next 
received  our  attention.  A  round  from  the  shotgun 
put  two  juveniles  on  their  backs,  and  sent  the  re- 
mainder under  the  surface  apparently  frightened  by 
the  discharge.  The  crews  of  both  the  Alice  and 
Itusca  were  soon  at  the  scene  of  action,  the  Indians 


PADDLING  FOR  DUCKS.  83 

screaming  and  gesticulating  in  the  wildest  manner  in 
order  to  keep  the  ducks  under  water.  An  exciting 
chase  now  ensued,  in  which  Indian  skill  in  the  use  of 
the  paddle  was  fully  demonstrated.  Eagerly  watching 
for  some  evidence  of  the  presence  of  his  game,  the  prac- 
tised eye  of  Chenowagesic  readily  got  its  bearings.  A 
few  sharp  strokes  of  his  paddle  brought  him  in  range, 
and  then  raising  the  paddle  to  a  perpendicular,  he  sent 
it  straight  to  the  back  of  his  prey.  Another  duck 
was  captured  in  the  same  manner  by  Sebatise,  which, 
with  the  two  brought  down  by  the  shotgun,  gave  us 
a  light  breakfast,  as  all  the  ducks  were  young  and 
small.  My  companions  insisted  that  their  leader 
should  have  one  duck  entirely  to  himself,  but  to  this 
I  objected,  saying  that  whatever  fortune  had  in  store 
for  us  should  always  be  equally  divided. 

Greatly  encouraged  by  the  good  luck  of  the  morn- 
ing, it  now  seemed  that  if  we  had  sufficient  ammuni- 
tion, or  if  the  guides  should  be  successful  in  paddling 
for  game,  we  might  pull  through  to  the  trading  post 
at  Lake  Bemidji  without  serious  difficulty.  But  right 
here  was  the  rub :  we  had  but  twenty-three  rounds 
of  ammunition  left,  and  while  fortune  had  favored  us 
once  at  least  with  the  paddles,  there  was  a  much 
larger  proportion  of  chance  than  certainty  for  the  fu- 
ture. 

Breakfast  over,  we  were  soon  again  gliding  rapidly 
down  the  river,  our  speed  greatly  accelerated  by  a 
constantly  increasing  current.  The  strong  rapids  con- 
tinued at  intervals,  and  were  rendered  more  dangerous 
by  limbs  of  trees  which  stretched  across  the  stream, 
threatening  to  sweep  everything  movable  out  of  the 
canoes.  In  consequence  of  these  obstructions  all 


84  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

hands  were  kept  busy  cutting  away  drift  and  remov- 
ing boulders  with  which  the  stream  was  literally 
choked. 

Five  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Marquette  River 
we  came  to  a  small  stream  having  its  source  in  a  lake 
to  the  westward.  I  gave  to  this  lake  the  name  of 
Bcaulieu,  the  veteran  Government  interpreter, to  whom 
reference  has  been  previously  made.  Chenowagesic 
informed  me  that  this  lake  is  but  a  short  distance 
from  the  source  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North. 

The  series  of  rapids  encountered  during  the  day 
and  the  consequent  interruption  to  navigation,  kept  us 
so  well  employed,  that  even  had  game  been  seen,  no 
time  was  found  for  hunting,  and  it  was  with  sensations 
of  hunger,  as  well  as  fatigue,  that  we  debated  the 
situation  in  our  new  camp.  The  propriety  of  eating 
the  otter  killed  in  the  morning  was  freely  discussed. 
I  knew  from  early  information  obtained  as  a  trapper, 
that  this  animal  was  seldom,  if  ever,  eaten  by  white 
men,  and  then  only  when  driven  to  great  extremity. 
Their  catlike  appearance  is  quite  enough  to  neutralize 
the  cravings  of  hunger  under  ordinary  circumstances. 
George  and  Paine  declared  they  would  starve  before 
eating  anything  so  repulsive  in  appearance,  and  started 
in  pursuit  of  blueberries.  Lagard  and  Chenowagesic 
said  that  otter  was  as  good  as  baked  dog,  and  at  once 
proceeded  to  dress  it  for  supper,  while  Sebatise  made 
a  small  fire  of  pine  knots,  with  which  to  roast  their 
prize;  for  the  Indians  Avere  determined  to  show  us 
the  edible  qualities  of  the  otter. 

Returning  to  camp  after  a  fruitless  search  for  ber- 
ries, George  and  Paine  were  in  a  humor  to  join  me  in 
an  otter  steak  a  la  Chippewa.  It  is  perhaps  needless 


EATING  AN  OTTER.  85 

to  add  that  Mr.  Otter  is  not  so  black  as  he  has  fre- 
quently been  painted,  and  the  only  regret  upon  fin- 
ishing our  rather  unsavory  supper  was,  that  our  four- 
legged  friend  had  not  been  of  larger  dimensions,  for  he 
was  both  small  and  poor.  I  may  further  observe  that 
it  is  quite  natural  to  conclude  that,  as  this  animal 
subsists  chiefly  upon  fish  and  vegetables,  it  may  be 
eaten  without  hesitation,  whenever  the  hunter  or 
voyageur  finds  himself  in  straits  for  more  palatable  food. 
Although  the  second  day  was  a  day  of  incessant 
toil  with  axes  and  paddles,  we  only  advanced  fifteen 
miles.  Greatly  refreshed,  however,  by  our  evening 
meal  and  thankful  that  our  condition  was  no  worse, 
we  retired  to  our  tents  hopeful  for  the  morrcw. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

PERILS   AND    PRIVATIONS. 


CAMP  HUNGER, 

Forty  Miles  Above  Lake  Bemidji, 
July  24,  1881. 

EING  still  without  rations  all  hands  went 
in  pursuit  of  blueberries  at  six  o'clock  this 
morning,  but  soon  returned  after  a  fruitless 
search,  and  again   launched  our  canoes, 
trusting  to  the  fates  for  something  of  an  eat- 
able character. 

Another  chain  of  rapids  was  encountered  a  few- 
yards  below  Camp  Otter.  We  were  nearly  an  hour 
in  passing  down  these  rapids,  when  we  reached  the 
Kakabikons  FalJs.  This  little  cataract  is  a  swift 
rush  of  water,  bolting  through  a  narrow  gorge,  with- 
out a  perpendicular  fall.  Chenowagesic  suggested  that 
we  should  make  a  portage,  but  after  consultation,  we 
decided  to  keep  the  canoes  in  the  water  as  their  crews 
were  so  reduced  in  strength  as  to  be  unable  to  carry 
the  luggage. 

While  halting  at  its   head  for  Paine  to  come  up 

George  caught  hold  of  my  canoe  in  order  to  bring  his 

own  to  a  stand.     He  succeeded  in  his  purpose.     But 

being  checked  suddenly,  the  stern  of  his  canoe  swung 

(86) 


PERILS  AND  PRIVATIONS.  §9 

across  the  stream,  which  permitted  his  pilot  to  catch 
hold  of  the  limb  of  a  fallen  tree.  Thus  stretched 
tensely  across  the  rapid  stream,  in  an  instant  the  water 
burst  over  the  gunwale,  precipitating  its  contents  .into 
the  swift  current.  The  water  was  about  four  feet  deep. 
George  and  his  pilot  found  footing  with  considerable 
difficulty,  but  his  canoe,  tent,  blankets,  gun  and  every- 
thing, were  swept  over  the  falls  and  lost.  He  clung 
to  his  paddle,  however,  and  by  feeling  with  his  feet 
brought  up  his  fowling-piece. 

Following  the  overturned  canoe,  we  came  up  with  it 
at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  but  injured  the  balance  of 
our  little  fleet  so  much  in  the  descent  as  to  cause  us 
considerable  delay.  It  was  hoped  that  this  misfortune 
would  prove  a  valuable  lesson  to  George,  who,  not- 
withstanding the  fact  that  he  had  already  been  cap- 
sized five  or  six  times,  had  yet,  it  seemed,  much  to 
learn  of  navigation  in  birch  canoes.  Below  these 
rapids  the  river  receives  a  tributary  on  the  right  hand, 
which  I  called  Joliet  River,  after  the  distinguished 
French  explorer,  Louis  Joliet,  who  was  for  many 
years  the  companion  of  both  La  Salle  and  Hennepin. 
We  found  the  volume  of  the  Mississippi  nearly 
doubled  by  the  junction  of  this  stream,  and  hence  its 
savanna  borders  were  greatly  enlarged.  I  noticed 
frequently  among  the  shrubbery  on  its  shores  the  wild 
rose  and  clumps  of  the  salix.  The  channel  winds 
through  these  savanna  borders  capriciously.  At  a 
point  where  we  landed  for  blueberries,  on  an  open 
pine  bank,  on  the  left  shore,  we  noted  several  copious 
and  clear  springs  pouring  into  the  river.  Indeed 
the  extensive  sand  ranges  which  traverse  the  wood- 
lands of  this  section  of  the  Mississippi  are  per- 


90  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

fectly  charged  with  the  moisture  condensed  on  these 
elevations,  which  flows  in  through  a  thousand  rills. 

The  physical  character  of  the  stream  made  this  part 
of  our  route  a  most  rapid  one.  Willing  or  unwilling, 
we  were  hurried  on ;  but  indeed  we  had  every  desire 
to  hasten  the  descent,  for  hunger,  gaunt  and  stern, 
still  stared  at  us  from  each  succeeding  bend  of  the 
river.  Towards  evening,  Sebatise  caught  two  black 
bass,  with  a  hook  made  from  a  small  piece  of  tin, 
while  I  killed  four  mallard  ducks  with  three  rounds 
of  my  shot-gun. 

We  disembarked  a  little  before  sunset  and  pitched 
tents  on  a  hillside  covered  with  Norway  pines.  After 
carefully  discussing  the  situation,  it  was  unanimously 
voted  that  the  ducks  should  be  reserved  for  breakfast, 
as  we  had  learned  from  experience  that  we  could 
better  dispense  with  our  rations  at  night  than  in  the 
morning,  when  we  had  a  day  of  paddling  before  us. 
My  surprise  can  be  readily  imagined  by  those  familiar 
with  Indian  character,  when  about  midnight  I  heard 
loud  grumbling  in  the  tent  occupied  by  the  interpreter 
and  guides.  They  had  reconsidered  their  vote  and  were 
now  in  favor  of  eating  fish  and  ducks  at  once.  Believ- 
ing that  the  course  we  had  previously  decided  upon 
was  best  for  all,  I  reasoned  a  few  moments  with  our 
dusky  friends,  and  then  ordered  guns  and  game  to  my 
own  tent.  This  put  an  end  to  the  disaffection  and  we 
again  retired  to  sleep  as  best  we  could.  I  may  here 
add  that  in  my  experience  among  Indians  I  have 
observed  that  when  in  the  possession  of  food  they 
seldom  defer  eating  it,  but  when  their  larders  are 
empty  they  patiently  submit  to  the  gnawings  of  hun- 
ger. 


PERILS  AND  PRIVATIONS.  Ql 

Jbuvtl)  !Dai). 

CAMP  STARVATION, 

Twenty  Miles  Above  Lake  Bemidji, 

July  Twenty-fifth. 

All  were  astir  at  dawn.  The  much  coveted  fish 
and  ducks  were  hastily  dressed  and  broiled.  A  very 
simple  calculation  showed  me  that  if  four  ducks  of 
nearly  equal  size  were  to  be  divided  fairly  between 
six  persons,  each  should  receive  four-sixths  of  one 
duck,  and  upon  this  basis  I  quickly  made  the  apportion- 
ment. As  to  the  fish,  which  could  not  have  weighed 
more  than  a  half  pound,  it  was  somewhat  difficult  to 
divide,  and  so  it  was  voted  that  the  leader  of  the  ex- 
pedition should  have  the  entire  fish  ration.  This 
courtesy  on  the  part  of  my  companions  was  gratefully 
acknowledged,  and  I  venture  to  say  that  I  regarded 
it  at  the  time  as  one  of  the  highest  compliments  ever 
paid  to  leadership. 

It  is  perhaps  needless  to  add  that  fish  and  ducks 
were  speedily  disposed  of,  tents  struck,  and  canoes 
again  put  into  the  water.  We  were  now  within  two 
days  of  Lake  Bemidji,  which  we  had  looked  forward 
to  as  a  post  of  relief  since  leaving  Itasca.  The  only 
obstacle  to  rapid  progress  in  the  descent  of  the  river 
was  our  exhausted  condition,  which  seriously  interfered 
with  a  vigorous  use  of  the  paddles. 

A  few  yards  below  our  last  encampment,  on  turning 
a  bend  in  the  river,  we  came  suddenly  upon  an  old 
duck  of  the  onzig  species  and  her  brood,  which  at  this 
season  are  unfledged.  This  seemed  a  providential 
interposition,  and  I  at  once  sent  a  charge  from  the 
shot-gun  after  them,  but  with  no  other  effect  than  to 


92  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

kill  one  young  duck  and  apparently  wound  its  mother. 
As  to  the  parent  bird,  however,  I  was  greatly  deceived  ; 
it  affected  for  the  moment  to  be  disabled,  flapped  its 
wings  upon  the  water  as  if  it  could  not  rise,  in  order 
to  allow  her  young  to  escape,  when  she  suddenly 
arose  and  winged  her  flight  beyond  the  reach  of 
my  fowling-piece.  Following  the  shot-gun,  the  In- 
dians closed  up,  gesticulating  and  screaming  loudly, 
thereby  frightening  and  keeping  several  of  the  ducks 
under  water.  An  instant  later,  Chenowagesic  sent  his 
paddle  straight  home  to  the  back  of  a  juvenile  duck, 
which,  as  soon  as  it  came  to  the  surface,  was  thrown 
into  my  canoe  amid  the  shouts  of  the  entire  party. 
We  were  now  two  ducks  ahead  and  hopeful  of  a  further 
reinforcement  of  our  commissariat  before  nightfall. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  reached  the  mouth  of  a  stream, 
having  its  source  in  a  lake  a  few  miles  north  of  Lake 
Itasca.  This  is  the  second  tributary  entering  on  the 
right,  and  is  the  largest  as  well  as  the  longest  so  far 
encountered.  I  named  it  La  Salle  River,  in  honor  of 
Chevalier  Robert  de  la  Salle. 

Several  flocks  of  pigeons  passed  over  our  heads  early 
in  the  afternoon,  but  as  they  were  so  far  above  us  as 
to  be  out  of  shot  range,  J  did  not  think  it  advisable  to 
waste  ammunition.  My  brother  noticed  a  deer  grazing 
at  some  distance  from  a  point  where  we  landed  to  search 
for  blueberries;  but  while  he  crept  up  cautiously  to 
within  a  few  yards,  he  failed  in  his  shot,  either  from 
the  distance  or  want  of  practice.  He  immediately 
threw  a  fresh  cartridge  into  his  gun  and  fired  again, 
before  the  animal  had  made  many  leaps,  but  to  no 
purpose. 

A   halt   was   made  at   three   o'clock  for   rest   and 


PERILS  AND  PRIVATIONS.  93 

refreshment,  for  we  were  so  much  exhausted  by  this 
time  from  padtlling  and  want  of  food  that  we  could 
proceed  no  farther.  Lagard  helped  me  out  of  my 
canoe  and  led  me  to  the  shade  of  a  small  tree,  for  on 
attempting  to  walk  I  found  I  was  too  weak  to  do  so 
without  assistance.  The  two  ducks  killed  in  the  morn- 
ing, together  with  a  mud-turtle  caged  by  Chenowagesic, 
were  quickly  broiled,  and  as  quickly  devoured.  A 
few  blueberries  were  gathered  by  George,  which  he 
divided  equally  among  his  companions. 

At  four  o'clock  the  canoes  were  again  put  into  the 
water  and  the  descent  of  the  river  continued.  Our 
progress  for  some  miles  was  greatly  retarded  by  a 
sluggish  current,  the  route  lying  through  wild  rice 
savannas,  the  most  extensive  we  had  yet  seen.  These 
rice  savannas  seem  indispensable  to  the  Indian  tribes 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  who  rely  upon  them  largely 
for  their  winter  sustenance.  Toward  evening  we 
came  to  the  junction  of  a  considerable  stream,  known 
among  the  Indians  as  the  Pinidiwin  River.  This 
river  originates  in  a  lake  on  the  northwestern  summit 
of  a  range  of  hills  called  the  Hauteur  des  Terres.  It 
lias  another  lake  also  near  the  point  where  it  enters 
the  Mississippi.  One  of  these  lakes  is  known  as 
Monomina,  the  other  I  named  Beltrami,  after  the  emi- 
nent Frenchman  who  preceded  Schoolcraft  in  Missis- 
sippi exploration. 

Just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Pinidiwin  a  flock  of 
wild  geese  passed  over  our  heads.  This  was,  under 
the  circumstances,  a  very  great  temptation,  and,  while 
they  were  apparently  beyond  short  range,  I  ventured  a 
round  of  ammunition  upon  them,  without  effect. 
This  was  a  hard  blow.  The  sun  was  sinking  behind 


94  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  distant  hills,  and  although  we  had  eaten  nothing 
since  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  there  was  now  no 
prospect  of  securing  food  before  reaching  Lake  Be- 
rnidji.  It  was  suggested  that  we  should  continue  the 
descentduring  the  night,  but  this  was  considered  imprac- 
ticable, as  the  channel  was  so  tortuous  and  unsettled  as  to 
render  navigation  extremely  difficult  except  in  day- 
light. We  were  still  passing  through  wild  rice  and 
blue  grass  savannas  where  the  river  is  constantly  chang- 
ing its  course,  and  the  channel  with  which  Chenowa- 
gesic  was  formerly  familiar  was  now  in  many  places 
filled  up  and  overgrown  with  reeds  and  rushes. 

We  disembarked  at  eight  o'clock,  about  ten  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Pinidiwin,  and  pitched  our 
tents  in  a  pine  grove  on  the  left  bank.  The  day's 
descent  was  indeed  an  arduous  one.  George  and 
Paine  estimated  it  at  twenty  miles.  Taking  into 
consideration  a  sluggish  current  and  lack  of  rations, 
it  must  be  admitted  that  our  progress  was  all  that 
could  have  been  expected. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

BEMIDJI  TO   WINNIBEGOSHISH. 

JFt't!)    jDttg. 

CAMP  BELIEF, 

Near  Lake  Bemidji,  Minnesota, 
July  26,  1881. 

TRUCK  tents  at  sunrise.  Shot  a  musk- 
rat  with  our  last  round  of  ammunition, 
and  killed  two  ducks  with  paddles  early 
in  the  forenoon,  which,  with  a  few  blue- 
berries gathered  by  the  guides,  gave  us  a 
scant  dinner.  Had  we  not  been  thus  fa- 
vored, it  is  hard  to  say  what  our  fate  might 
have  been,  for  we  were  so  much  reduced  in 
strength  by  this  time  that  it  was  with  the  greatest  dif- 
ficulty we  continued  the  descent  of  the  river,  aided 
only,  as  we  were,  by  a  sluggish  current,  and  too  weak 
to  accomplish  much  with  our  paddles.  A  breakdown 
seemed  inevitable,  but  this  timely  relief  gave  us 
renewed  energy  and  braced  us  up  for  more  vigorous 
work  in  pushing  forward  the  canoes. 

We  met  a  canoe  late  in  the  afternoon,  about  ten 
miles  above  Lake  Bemidji,  in  which  there  were  an 
Indian,  his  squaw  and  pappoose.  Finding  they  had 
some  dried  fish  and  a  small  quantity  of  maple  sugar, 
we  proposed  a  purchase,  which  was  made  after  con- 

(95) 


96  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

siderable  parleying,  and  which  resulted  in  our  secur- 
ing four  small  perch  and  about  two  pounds  of  sugar. 
The  Fates  certainly  favored  us  on  this  occasion,  for 
had  we  been  a  few  moments  later  we  should  not  have 
seen  these  Indians,  as  at  the  time  of  our  meeting  they 
were  about  turning  from  the  Mississippi  to  ascend  one 
of  its  tributaries. 

As  soon  as  we  were  in  possession  of  sugar  and  fish  it 
was  voted  that  nothing  should  be  eaten  until  our  usual 
hour  for  supper;  but  I  may  add  that  our  wise  resolu- 
tions were  not  very  strictly  adhered  to,  and  the  offi- 
cial having  charge  of  the  sugar  was  frequently  visited 
upon  errands  having  no  reference  to  the  points  of  the 
compass. 

We  reached  the  mouth  of  the  eastern  fork  of  the 
Mississippi  at  five  o'clock.  This  stream,  to  which  al- 
lusion was  made  during  our  voyage  to  Lake  Itasca, 
unites  with  the  western  fork  about  three  miles  south 
of  Bemidji.  We  were  now  in  latitude  47°  28'  46". 
Of  the  two  primary  streams  which  unite  at  this  point, 
the  one  flowing  from  the  west  contributes  by  far  the 
larger  volume  of  water,  possessing  the  greater  velocity 
and  breadth  of  current. 

A  few  moments  before  six  o'clock  we  entered  a 
beautiful  little  lake  of  clear  water  and  a  picturesque 
margin,  spreading  transversely  to  our  course,  to  which 
I  gave  the  name  of  Marquette.  Chenowagesic  led 
the  way  directly  north  across  this  body  of  water,  strik- 
ing the  river  again  on  its  opposite  shore. 

The  Mississippi  at  the  point  of  leaving  Lake  Mar- 
quette is  a  broad,  shallow  channel,  with  rapid  current. 
I  estimated  this  channel  to  be  not  more  than  one 
hundred  yards  long,  at  which  distance  we  entered  .the 


BEMIDJI  TO   WINNIBEGOSHISH.  97 

largest  lake  yet  encountered  in  our  seaward  voyage. 
This  fine  body  of  water  is  known  to  the  Chippewas  as 
Pemuljegumaug,  which  is  the  Lac  Traverse  of  the  early 
French  explorers.  It  appears  upon  the  recent  maps 
of  Minnesota  as  Beraidji,  which  is  an  indifferent  ab- 
breviation of  its  original  title.  The  peculiarity  recog- 
nized by  the  Indian  name  of  Pemidjegumaug,  or 
cross-water,  is  found  to  consist  in  the  circumstance  of 
the  entrance  of  the  Mississippi  into  its  extreme  southern 
end,  and  its  passage  through  or  across  part  of  it  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  point  of  entrance. 

Lake  Bemidji  is  in  every  way  a  magnificent  sheet 
of  water,  twelve  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south, 
and  six  or  seven  broad,  fringed  by  an  open  forest  of 
hard  wood.  It  is  distant  one  hundred  and  forty-eight 
miles  from  the  source  of  the  river,  and  lies  at  an:  ele- 
vation of  1456  feet  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in 
latitude  47°  32'  45". 

Continuing  our  course  we  paddled  across  the  southern 
end  of  Lake  Bemidji  to  its  outlet.  Descending  the 
river  a  short  distance  we  came  to  high  ground,  which 
was  considered  favorable  for  a  camp;  halted  and 
pitched  tents  a  few  moments  before  sunset.  Here  we 
were  again  brought  to  the  realization  of  an  empty  larder. 
Every  grain  of  sugar  had  disappeared.  The  last 
round  of  ammunition  was  gone,  and  but  four  small 
dried  perch  left  to  carry  us  to  Lake  Winnibegoshish, 
distant  about  a  hundred  miles ;  for  we  had  now  learned 
that  the  trading  post  at  this  point,  and  also  that  at 
Cass  Lake,  had  some  time  since  been  abandoned.  The 
fish  were  carefully  cut  up  and  distributed,  which,  with 
a  few  blueberries  found  near  our  encampment,  afforded 
temporary  refreshment  and  sent  us  to  our  tents  musing, 
6 


98  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

not  so  much  upon  the  beautiful  scenery  which  had 
arrested  our  attention  during  the  afternoon,  as  upon 
the  probabilities  of  bagging  something  of  an  eatable 
character  on  the  morrow. 


Pan. 

CAMP  CIIIPPEWA, 

Cans   Luke,   Minnesota, 

July  Twenty- seventh. 

Launclied  our  canoes  a  few  minutes  after  sunrise. 
Killed  two  small  mallard  ducks  and  one  mud-turtle 
with  our  paddles,  which,  with  the  usual  addition  of 
the  never-failing  blueberries,  gave  us  an  indifferent 
breakfast  at  ten  o'clock.  All  hands  very  weak  again 
from  want  of  sufficient  food. 

Reached  Cuss  Lake  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
Here  we  found  a  wigwam  on  the  shore  of  the  lake 
occupied  by  an  Indian  woman  and  her  children.  A 
careful  exploration  brought  to  light  a  few  dried  fish, 
which  we  at  once  purchased  with  money  and  tobacco, 
the  latter  article  being  especially  appreciated. 

Dame  Fortune  seemed  to  be  with  us  once  more,  and 
hastening  back  to  our  canoes  we  paddled  directly  across 
the  lake,  disembarking  at  a  point  near  its  outlet. 
Tents  were  pitched  and  preparations  for  supper  begun, 
for  we  now  had  something  to  eat,  and  were  in  no 
humor  to  defer  the  eating.  Desirous  of  adding  some- 
thing of  a  nourishing  character  to  our  small  stock  of 
dried  fish,  Chenowagesic  and  the  Lagards  were  in- 
structed to  forage  in  the  vicinity  of  our  encampment. 
They  soon  returned,  reporting  the  discovery  of  a  de- 
serted wigwam  and  a  large  garden  of  growing  corn 


BEMIDJI  TO    WINNIBEGOSHISH.  99 

and  potatoes.  This  garden,  well  filled  with  half- 
grown  potatoes,  was  to  my  starving  companions  an  ob- 
ject of  sincere  admiration,  especially  when  we  were 
told  by  our  guides  that  in  the  Indian  country  the 
hungry  are  always  at  liberty  to  help  themselves. 
Under  the  circumstances,  this  practice  of  our  red 
brothers  was  well  calculated  to  inspire  us  with  the 
most  exalted  ideas  of  aboriginal  generosity,  and  the 
alacrity  with  which  we  helped  ourselves  to  those 
juvenile  potatoes  fully  attested  our  appreciation. 

After  supper  all  went  down  to  the  lake  and  had  a 
full  bath,  then  returned  to  our  tents  thankful  for  the 
favors  of  the  day,  and  loud  in  our  praises  of  Indians 
who  plant  corn  and  potatoes. 

Cass  Lake  is  a  fine  body  of  transparent  water, 
about  eighteen  miles  in  length,  with  several  large  bays 
and  islands,  which  give  it  an  irregular  shape.  The 
largest  island,  called  Grande  lie  by  the  French,  is  the 
Gitchiminis  of  the  Indians.  This  island  has  a  very 
fertile  soil,  and  has  always  been  a  favorite  garden 
spot  with  the  Chippewas  for  raising  maize  or  Indian 
corn.  Cass  Lake  was  the  terminus  of  the  respective 
explorations  of  Lieutenant  Zebulon  Pike,  in  1806,  and 
Governor  Lewis  Cass,  of  Michigan,  in  1820.  The 
points  at  which  they  approached  it  were  not,  however, 
the  same.  Pike  visited  it  in  a  dog-train  on  the  snow 
during  the  month  of  January,  across  the  land  from 
the  trading  post  of  the  Northwest  Company  at  Leech 
Lake.  Cass  landed  in  July,  after  tracing  its  channel 
from  Sandy  Lake  to  the  entrance  of  Turtle  River,  the 
line  of  communication  to  Turtle  Lake,  which  was  for 
many  years  the  reputed  source  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  northern  shore  of  Cass  Lake  lies  in  latitude 


100  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

47°  25'  23".  The  Mississippi  at  the  point  where  it 
flows  from  the  lake  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
feet  wide. 


CABIN  OF  MISSIONARY, 

Lake   Winnibegoshixh,  Minnesota) 

July  Twenty-eighth. 

All  were  up  and  doing  at  daylight.  The  Lagards 
hurried  off  to  the  potato  field,  while  George  and  Che- 
nowagesic  made  a  rousing  fire  in  which  to  roast  the 
potatoes.  None  but  those  accustomed  to  frontier  life 
can  appreciate  the  luxury  of  potatoes  baked  in  ashes  ; 
and  our  supper  and  breakfast  at  Cass  Lake  are  among 
the  things  long  to  be  remembered  in  connection  with 
our  experience  on  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

Having  some  tobacco,  with  which  we  had  provided 
ourselves  at  Saint  Paul  for  dealing  with  the  Indians, 
we  placed  a  small  quantity  in  a  conspicuous  place  in  the 
wigwam,  concluding  that  when  the  strolling  Chippewa 
occupants  should  return  they  would  find  acceptable 
payment  for  the  potatoes  confiscated  by  their  white 
brothers. 

As  soon  as  breakfast  was  over,  tents  were  struck, 
blankets  rolled,  and  by  six  o'clock  we  were  again  in  the 
canoes  pulling  vigorously  for  Lake  Winnibegoshish, 
our  next  destination.  The  river  looked  very  beau- 
tiful that  morning,  rippling  over  its  gravelly  bed  and 
flecked  with  the  cool  shadows  of  bluffs  and  trees,  its 
surface  varied  now  and  then  by  small  rapids,  shooting 
down  which  the  water  lashed  itself  against  the 
boulders.  Farther  along  the  rapids  ceased  and  the 
river  flowed  between  waving  meadows  of  wild  rice. 


BEMIDJI  TO    WINNIBEGOSHISH.  1Q1 

We  met  several  Indians  in  canoes  at  nine  o'clock. 
Halted  and  parleyed  with  them  for  dried  fish,  but 
failed  to  accomplish  anything,  as  they  had  barely 
enough  for  their  own  use.  Tempted  them  with  to- 
bacco, but  they  would  not  part  with  their  fish.  Later 
in  the  forenoon  we  disembarked  and  ascended  the 
bank  of  the  river,  where  we  found  a  squaw  and  her 
children  at  work  drying  berries.  Having  some  dried 
venison  at  her  wigwam  near  by,  she  generously  di- 
vided with  us,  receiving  money  in  payment.  Hurried 
back  to  our  canoes  and  continued  the  descent  of  the 
river,  eating  venison  and  berries  as  we  urged  our 
little  fleet  toward  Winnibegoshish. 

A  heavy  swell  followed  by  a  rising  and  falling  of 
the  canoes  betokened  our  near  approach  to  a  large 
body  of  water,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  we  shot  out  upon 
the  bosom  of  Lake  Winnibegoshish,  the  largest  and 
grandest  of  all  the  great  lakes  of  the  Great  River. 

Our  arrival  at  Winnibegoshish  was  at  a  time  when 
a  strong  south  wind  blew  its  waters  into  white-capped 
waves,  and  it  was  at  the  imminent  risk  of  swamping 
that  the  canoes  were  forced  along  the  western  shore 
and  into  the  little  bay  upon  which  the  Indian  village 
stands.  I  shall  not  soon  forget  the  peculiar  sensa- 
tions experienced  when  I  realized  that  I  was  in  a  frail 
canoe  in  a  heavy  sea  two  or  three  miles  from  land.  I 
would  have  given  a  good  deal  at  this  time  if  I  could 
have  suddenly  placed  my  feet  upon  a  firm  foundation. 

Although  my  proposition  to  cross  the  lake  was 
stoutly  opposed  by  the  guides  there  seemed  to  be  no 
alternative,  as  we  were  again  without  food  and  felt 
sure  that  something  of  an  eatable  character  could  be 
secured  at  the  Chippewa  village  on  the  opposite  side 


102  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

of  the  lake.  For  nearly  two  hours  we  pulled  right 
lustily  for  our  destination,  sometimes  riding  upon  the 
topmost  waves,  and  again  struggling  in  the  trough  of 
the  sea.  I  felt  several  times  that  to  get  out  of  such  a 
fix  I  would  willingly  fast  six  months.  I  would  have 
given  every  dollar  I  had  in  the  world  to  have  been 
safely  landed  anywhere  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Finding  that  my  pilot  coveted  such  a  hat  as  his  cap- 
tain wore,  I  promised  to  keep  him  well  supplied  with 
hats  for  some  years  to  come  if  he  landed  me  safely  in 
the  village  towards  which  we  were  paddling.  Our 
canoes  soon  became  detached  by  ponderous  waves 
which  tossed  us  about  quite  at  their  pleasure,  and  no 
opportunity  was  found  to  discuss  the  situation ;  but  I 
sincerely  wished  that  all  birch  canoes  had  been  con- 
signed to  perdition  before  we  saw  Winnibegoshish. 
We  struck  the  beach  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
heartily  glad  that  we  stood  once  more  on  terra  firma. 

On  disembarking  we  were  very  cordially  received 
by  a  large  number  of  Chippevvas,  headed  by  Kitchi- 
nodin,  an  Indian  missionary,  who  welcomed  us  to 
their  village,  the  missionary  extending  to  me  the 
courtesy  of  a  bed  in  his  cabin,  and  suggesting  a  fti- 
vorable  place  for  pitching  the  tents  of  my  companions. 
These  were  the  first  civilities  shown  us  in  the  descent 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  three  days  that  we  were 
wind-bound  at  this  Chippewa  village  afforded  me  an 
excellent  opportunity  for  studying  Indian  character 
and  habits. 

When  told  that  we  had  been  many  days  without 
regular  food,  Kitchinodin  promptly  supplied  us  with 
such  meats  and  vegetables  as  he  could  procure,  and  in- 
sisted that  I  should  feel  at  home  in  his  cabin. 


BEMIDJI  TO    WINNIBEGOSH1SH.  103 

Having  been  duly  installed  as  the  guest  of  Kitchi- 
nodin,  I  looked  forward  with  considerable  interest  to 
our  dinner,  which  I  soon  discovered  was  in  course  of 
preparation.  Everything  being  ready,  Kitchinodiu 
turned  to  me  and  said  in  the  best  English  fie  could 
command,  and  with  some  hesitation  :  Ne-che,  din-ner- 
is-read-y.  Then  taking  me  by  the  hand  he  led  me 
into  his  cabin  and  placed"  me  at  the  side  of  a  plain 
wooden  table  opposite  his  wife.  He  seated  himself  at 
the  end  of  the  table,  and  in  serving  the  few  simple 
dishes  which  constituted  our  repast  was  assisted  by  an 
intelligent-looking  Indian  girl  who  carried  a  juvenile 
Kitchinodin  in  one  arm  and  waited  upon  the  table 
with  the  other.  Dinner  consisted  of  dried  fish, 
potatoes,  green  corn,  and  red  raspberries,  which  are 
found  in  abundance  wherever  there  is  a  clearing  in  the 
neighborhood  of  this  lake.  Before  proceeding  with 
dinner  my  reverend  host  indicated,  by  raising  his  right 
hand  and  bowing  his  head,  that  he  desired  to  ask  a 
blessing.  This  was  invoked  in  the  Ojibvvay  dialect, 
and  with  all  the  fervor  of  a  true  Christian. 

Having  embraced  Christianity,  this  son  of  the 
forest  manifested  that  respect  for  the  practices  of 
civilization  which  almost  invariably  follow  conver- 
sion. He  said  to  me  through  the  interpreter  that  he 
desired  to  imitate  and  live  as  far  as  possible  in  accord- 
ance with  the  suggestions  and  teachings  of  his  white 
brothers.  He  asked  my  advice  in  many  things,  and 
hoped  my  sojourn  at  Winnibegoshish  would  be  much 
longer  than  I  had  contemplated.  Dinner  being  over, 
Kitchinodin  invited  me  to  walk  with  him  through  the 
village,  after  which  we  sat  down  in  the  shade  of  his 
cabin  and  looked  out  upon  the  lake. 


104  DO  TF^V  THE  GREA  T  Rl  VER. 

Lake  Winnibegoshish,  the  largest  lake  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, is  about  twenty  miles  in  its  greatest  length 
from  north  to  south,  and  fifteen  or  sixteen  broad  from 
east  to  west.  Its  northern  shore  lies  in  latitude  47° 
28'  32".  This  imposing  lake  was  first  seen  by  white 
men  in  1806,  when  Hon.  Lewis  Cass,  of  Michigan,  and 
Lieutenant  Pike,  United  States  Army,  reached  it 
during  their  tour  of  exploration  on  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi. It  was  subsequently  visited  by  Schoolcraft  in 
1832,  when  on  his  way  to  Lake  Itasca.  The  waters  of 
Winnibegoshish  have  a  slightly  turbid  aspect  after  the 
prevalence  of  storms,  which  appears  to  reveal  its 
shallowness  with  a  probably  white-clay  bottom.  The 
Chippewa  name  of  Winnibegoshish  is  indeed  said  to  be 
derived  from  this  circumstance. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

HABITS   AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS. 

€tg!)t!)  Dan. 

HOME  OP  KITCHINODIN, 
Lake   Winnibeyoshish,  Minnesota, 
July  29,  1881. 

T  was  my  intention  on  our  arrival  at 
Lake  Winnibegoshish  to  continue  the 
descent  of  the  river  on  the  following 
morning,  but,  finding  ourselves  wind- 
bound  at  the  appointed  time  for  re-embark- 
ing,  I  decided  to  improve  the  day  by  fur- 
ther  informing  myself  concerning  the  peculiar 
habits  and  religious  notions  of  the  Chippewas. 
Conversations  with  Kitchinodin  convinced  me  that  he 
was  far  above  the  ordinary  Indian  in  point  of  natural 
intelligence  and  acquired  knowledge  of  the  practices 
and  traditions  of  his  race.  He  is  a  regularly  ordained 
missionary  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  having  been  duty 
appointed  by  Bishop  Whipple,  of  Minnesota.  Per- 
fectly familiar  with  the  current  beliefs  and  supersti- 
tions of  the  Chippewas,  he  told  me  through  my  inter- 
preter of  many  of  the  obstacles  with  which  he  has  to 
contend  in  making  converts  to  Christianity. 

Their  notions  of  religion  appear  to  be  of  the  most 
simple  character;  they  believe  in  the  existence  of  an 

(105) 


106  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

only  God,  whom  they  terra  Ka-sha-rna-ne-to,  or  Great 
Spirit ;  Kasha  signifying  great,  and  Maneto  an  irresisti- 
ble Almighty  Being.  The  epithet  Kasha  is  never 
applied  to  any  other  word  but  as  connected  with  the 
Supreme  Being.  It  would  be  highly  indecorous  to 
apply  it  to  a  house,  a  horse,  or  any  other  visible  object. 
Yet  it  is  in  a  few  instances  applied  to  a  good  man, 
in  order  to  give  more  force  to  the  expression  by 
connecting  his  good  qualities  with  those  which  they 
ascribe  to  the  Great  Spirit.  They  recognize  also 
an  evil  spirit,  whom  they  call  Mat-cha-ma-ne-to. 
This  unfavorable  epithet  is  not  restricted  in  its  applica- 
tion, but  is  extended  to  all  unpleasant  or  disagreeable 
objects.  They  consider  themselves  indebted  to  the 
Good  Spirit  for  the  warm  winds  from  the  south,  while 
the  evil  one  sends  the  cold  winds  and  storms  of  the 
north.  The  Kashamaneto  dwells  in  the  land  of  the 
mid-day  sun,  while  the  Mntchamaneto  resides  in  the 
cold  regions  of  the  north  where  the  sun  never  shines. 

Their  worship  appears  to  be  addressed  principally 
to  the  Evil  Spirit,  whom  they  think  it  expedient  to 
propitiate;  the  good  one  needing  no  prayers,  for  his 
essential  goodness  will  always  induce  him  to  assist  and 
protect  man  without  being  reminded  of  it  by  his  pe- 
titions; neither  do  they  believe  that  their  prayers  to 
the  Evil  Spirit  can  in  any  manner  displease  the  good. 
In  certain  cases,  however,  as  when  afflicted  with 
disease,  or  when  impelled  to  it  in  a  dream,  they  will 
offer  a  sacrifice  of  living  animals  to  the  Kashamaneto. 
This  is  usually  done  at  the  suggestion  of  one  of  their 
chiefs  or  leaders,  who  calls  all  the  warriors  together, 
explains  his  views,  and  appoints  one  of  them  to  go  in 
search  of  a  buck ;  to  another  he  commits  the  killing 


DOG  DANCE  OF  THE  SIOUX. 


-A-H 1 


&  T~' 


±3 


* 


P—r 1 r- T 
,  ,~hg — i— (S>-\-is>  <$>-?>-\ 


--A-H ff^ 


CHIPPEWA  SCALP  DANCE. 

ifar-f-rfgpip: 


y-i- 


tzitt 


.--1  -  31 ,^J .^ ._J — J — _, IJ 


THE  notes  marked  thus,  .«=   are  performed  with  a  tremulous  voice 
sounded :    "  High-yi-yi,"  &c. 


HABITS  AND   TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.IQ$ 

of  a  raccoon  ;  to  a  third  he  allots  some  other  animal 
to  be  killed  ;  and  when  they  have  been  successful  in 
their  respective  hunts,  they  meet  and  fasten  the  first 
buck  which  they  kill  upon  a  high  pole,  and  leave  it  in 
this  situation  so  that  it  may  serve  as  a  sacrifice  to  the 
Great  Spirit.  Upon  the  remainder  of  the  chase  they 
feast.  After  having  boiled  the  game  they  partake  of 
it  in  the  name  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The  object  of 
these  sacrifices  is  to  insure  luck  in  their  pursuits, 
whether  of  hunting  or  fighting. 

The  only  period  when  they  have  regular  sacrifices  is 
during  the  winter  and  spring  of  the  year,  at  which 
time  many  of  the  warriors  give  feasts;  each  selects 
the  time  that  suits  him  best,  and  invites  such  guests  as 
he  thinks  proper.  Having  assembled  them  all,  he 
rises,  takes  a  sort  of  tambourine,  formed  by  fastening 
a  piece  of  skin  or  parchment  upon  a  frame,  which  he 
beats  while  he  addresses  himself  to  the  divinity,  ac- 
companying his  invocation  with  many  violent  ges- 
tures. When  he  has  concluded,  he  resumes  his  seat, 
and  hands  the  tambourine  over  to  another,  who  pro- 
ceeds in  the  same  manner.  They  have  regular  songs 
which  they  sing  together  on  such  occasions. 

Among  the  Chippewas,  polygamy  is  not  only  al- 
lowed but  even  encouraged.  A  man  frequently  has 
two  or  three  wives,  sometimes  four  or  five,  according 
to  his  skill  and  success  as  a  hunter.  An  Indian  who 
lias  many  wives  is  respected  as  being  a  better  or  more 
favored  hunter  than  he  who  has  but  one  wife;  it 
therefore  follows  that  the  number  of  wives  he  keeps 
is  equal  to  that  which  he  can  maintain. 

They  are  very  attentive  to  the  proper  education  of 
their  children,  in  order  to  impart  to  them  those 


110  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

qualities  of  both  mind  and  body  which  shall  enable 
them  to  endure  privation  and  fatigue,  and  to  obtain 
influence  in  the  councils  of  the  nation,  or  during  their 
military  operations.  Kitchinodin  said  that,  when 
very  young,  his  father  began  to  instruct  him  in  the 
traditions,  laws  and  ceremonies  of  his  tribe,  in  order 
that  he  might  one  day  benefit  his  country  with  his 
counsel. 

The  education  of  boys  usually  commences  at  the 
age  of  ten  or  twelve  years;  they  accustom  them 
early  to  the  endurance  of  cold  by  making  them  bathe 
every  morning  in  winter.  They  likewise  encourage 
them  to  abstinence  from  food  in  order  that  they  may 
acquire  the  more  readily  those  attributes  which  it  is 
desirable  for  an  Indian  to  possess. 

Parents  use  no  compulsory  means  to  reduce  their 
children  to  obedience ;  still,  they  generally  succeed  in 
obtaining  a  powerful  influence  over  them  by  acting  upon 
their  fears;  they  tell  them  that  if  they  do  not  do  as 
they  are  required  they  will  incur  the  displeasure  of 
the  Great  Spirit,  who  will  deprive  them  of  all  luck  as 
hunters  and  as  warriors.  This,  together  with  the 
constant  and  never-ceasing  importance  which  the 
children  observe  that  their  parents  attribute  to  luck 
in  all  their  pursuits,  is  found  to  have  the  desired  effect 
upon  the  minds  of  all  those  who  are  fired  with  the 
ambition  of  becoming  distinguished  at  some  future 
day  by  their  skill  and  success. 

Their  fasts  are  marked  by  the  ceremony  of  smear- 
ing their  faces  and  hands  with  charcoal.  To  effect 
this,  they  take  a  piece  of  wood  of  the  length  of  the 
finger  and  suspend  it  to  their  necks;  they  char  one 
end  of  it,  and  rub  themselves  with  the  coal  every 


HABITS  AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.IH 

morning,  keeping  it  on  until  after  sunset.  No  person 
whose  face  is  blackened  presumes  to  eat  or  drink  dur- 
ing the  period  of  fasting ;  whatever  may  be  the  crav- 
ings of  his  appetite  he  must  restrain  them  until 
evening,  when  he  may  wash  off  his  black  paint  and 
indulge  moderately  in  the  use  of  food.  The  next 
morning  he  repeats  the  ceremony  of  blackening  his 
face,  and  continues  it  from  day  to  day  until  the  whole 
of  his  piece  of  wood  is  consumed. 

After  this  term  they  either  suspend  or  continue 
their  fasting,  according  to  the  particular  requirements 
of  the  case.  Kitchinodin  said  that  in  no  instance 
within  his  recollection  had  Indians  been  known  to 
break  their  fasts ;  so  powerful  indeed  is  their  super- 
stitious dread  of  that  "ill  luck"  which  would  attach 
to  a  transgression  of  their  rules,  that  even  children 
have  been,  in  vain,  tempted  to  take  food  when  at  the 
houses  of  teachers  and  beyond  the  control  of  their 
parents.  Neither  does  it  appear  that  they  indulge 
after  sunset  in  any  unreasonable  gratification  of  their 
appetite :  in  this  respect  therefore  they  prove  them- 
selves more  consistent  than  the  Mahometans,  who  are 
said,  while  their  Ramadan  or  Lent  lasts,  to  make  up 
by  the  debaucheries  of  the  evening  for  the  restrictions 
imposed  upon  them  during  the  day  by  the  precepts 
of  their  Prophet. 

The  same  apprehensions  which  will  prevent  an  In- 
dian, whether  man  or  boy,  from  tasting  food  while 
covered  with  his  coating  of  charcoal,  will  not  allow 
him  to  shorten  the  term  of  his  penance  by  consuming 
the  piece  of  wood  too  hastily.  If  he  does  not  use  it 
sparingly,  he  is  certain  that  the  charm  or  virtue  with 
which  he  invests  it  will  be  dispelled.  In  addition  to 


112  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

fasting,  the  Indian  attempts  to  impress  upon  his  off- 
spring a  permanent  and  unshaken  belief  in  the  exist- 
ence of  a  Great  Spirit,  ruler  of  the  universe,  whose 
attributes  are  kindness  to  men  and  a  desire  of  reliev- 
ing them  from  all  their  afflictions.  The  necessity  of 
doing  all  that  may  be  grateful  to  him  is  often  recurred 
to  in  those  exhortations  by  which  every  Indian  parent 
instructs  his  sons  both  morning  and  evening. 

It  does  not  appear  that  the  same  care  is  extended  to 
the  religious  principles  of  females ;  they  are  not  allowed 
to  take  part  in  the  public  sacrifices,  and  as  they  have  no 
concern  in  the  noble  occupations  of  war  or  the  chase,  it 
matters  but  little  whether  or  not  they  are  agreeable  in 
the  sight  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The  only  inducement 
which  they  have  to  pray  is  that  they  may  continue  to 
hold  a  place  in  the  affections  of  their  husbands. 

The  Chippewas  are  of  the  opinion  that  they  have 
always  existed  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  head  waters 
of  the  Mississippi.  They  are  also  of  the  belief  that 
the  first  man  and  woman  were  made  by  the  Great 
Spirit.  Their  traditions  at  first  mentioned  but  one 
original  couple,  the  parents  of  the  red  people,  from 
whom  they  believe  themselves  to  have  descended. 
But  when  they  became  acquainted  with  the  different 
races  of  men,  they  supposed  a  couple  of  white  and 
another  of  black  had  likewise  been  created  by  the 
Supreme  Being,  and  that  these  had  given  rise  to  the 
white  and  black  people  whom  they  had  since  seen. 
Soon  after  the  white  men  came  among  them  they  were 
told  that  far  away  towards  the  setting  sun  there  was  a 
race  of  people  whose  features  and  complexion  resembled 
theirs.  This  had  led  them  to  much  reflection  and  discus- 
sion. They  had  often  inquired  of  other  nations  whence 


HABITS  AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.  H3 

they  came,  hut  found  strong  reasons  for  adhering  to 
their  old  tradition,  that  the  land  on  which  they  now 
resided  was  that  upon  which  the  Great  Spirit  had 
first  placed  them. 

Indians  generally  admit  the  existence  of  a  future 
life,  of  which,  however,  they  entertain  very  confused 
ideas,  believing  for  the  most  part  that  the  spirits  of 
those  who  have  lived  a  good  life  will  go  to  a  country 
where  they  can  pursue  without  fatigue  their  favorite 
occupation  of  hunting,  where  animals  will  be  plentiful 
and  fat.  Not  so  with  the  spirits  of  the  bad ;  theirs 
will  be  a  country  barren  and  nearly  destitute  of  game, 
Avhere  the  chase  will  become  a  painful  and  unprofitable 
occupation. 

It  is  impossible  on  seeing  this  strange  people  at 
present  not  to  feel  that  the  time  for  obtaining  correct 
information  from  them  has  long  since  passed  away; 
they  have  imbibed  from  the  missionaries  so  many 
notions  which  certainly  did  not  belong  to  them  origin- 
ally, and  the  crafty  policy  of  their  chiefs  to  counteract 
the  effect  of  their  intercourse  with  white  men  has 
raised  so  many  idle  and  false  traditions,  that  it  is 
difficult  to  distinguish  the  genuine  from  the  false 
doctrines  attributed  to  these  nations  in  their  original 
state.  Of  the  many  interesting  customs  which,  accord- 
ing to  their  traditions,  formerly  prevailed  among 
them,  the  degeneration  of  none  is  more  to  be  regretted 
than  that  which  accompanied  the  marriage  ceremony. 
This  has  now  nearly  disappeared  from  the  face  of  the 
country.  Their  intermarriages  with  other  nations 
have  Ixjcome  so  frequent,  and  the  demoralizing  ten- 
dency of  their  intercourse  with  the  traders  has  been  so 
great,  that  it  has  led  them  to  neglect  practices  which 
were  recommended  to  them  by  a  venerable  antiquity. 


114  DOWN  THE  GEE  A  T  El  VER. 

Referring  to  the  form  of  courtship  among  the 
Chippewas,  Kitchinodin  said  that  formerly  when  a 
young  man  had  conceived  an  attachment  for  a 
female,  or  wished  to  make  her  his  wife,  he  gave  the 
first  intimation  of  his  design  by  throwing  a  deer  into 
the  lodge  of  the  girl's  parents.  This  he  would 
repeat  for  several  days,  after  which  the  father  usually 
asked  him  what  object  he  had  in  doing  so,  and 
whether  it  was  to  obtain  his  daughter.  The  young 
man  having  replied  in  the  affirmative,  the  relatives  of 
the  girl  would,  if  they  approved  of  the  connection, 
prepare  a  dress  for  the  youth,  which  they  would  take 
to  his  wigwam,  and  there  the  damsel's  father  would 
invest  him  with  it.  He  would  then  take  him  home 
with  him,  and  introduce  him  to  the  bride;  there  the 
lover  remained  ten  or  twelve  days,  until  his  friends 
had  prepared  the  presents  they  intended  for  his  wrife's 
family.  It  was  usual  for  the  young  couple  to  dwell 
with  the  bride's  parents  for  the  term  of  a  year,  during 
which  time  the  husband  was  virtually  a  servant  in  the 
family,  giving  his  father-in-law  all  the  produce  of  his 
hunt.  At  the  expiration  of  this  term  he  was  at 
liberty  to  remove  his  wife  to  his  own  wigwam  and 
treat  her  as  he  liked. 

The  power  of  the  husband  over  his  wife  was  un- 
limited ;  he  might  even  put  her  to  death  if  he  chose, 
and  she  lost  all  claim  to  the  sympathy  and  protec- 
tion of  her  own  relatives.  They  never  would  resent 
any  treatment  which  she  had  been  made  to  endure. 
There  was  no  fixed  time  for  marrying.  Girls  were 
sometimes  betrothed  at  a  very  early  age,  long  before 
maturity.  The  presents  which  it  was  customary  to 
make  were  always  of  the  most  valuable  kind,  and  con- 


HABITS  AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.     115 

sisted  of  horses,  venison,  guns  and  many  other  things 
that  were  likely  to  be  of  service  to  the  contracting 
parties. 

It  was  the  custom  when  an  Indian  married  one  of 
several  sisters  to  consider  him  as  wedded  to  all ;  and  it 
became  incumbent  upon  him  to  take  the  others  as 
concubines.  The  marrying  of  a  brother's  widow  was 
not  approved,  but  was  always  looked  upon  as  a  very 
improper  connection.  The  intercourse  of  persons 
related  by  blood  was  likewise  disapproved  and  discour- 
aged. 

The  circumstances  which  attend  funerals  are  also 
worthy  of  notice.  They  have,  it  is  true,  but  few 
ceremonies  at  the  time  of  the  removal  of  the  corpse ; 
but  the  manner  in  which  this  duty  is  performed  de- 
serves mention.  The  greatest  pains  are  taken  that  all 
should  be  transacted  in  the  most  decorous  manner. 
The  spot  selected  is  always  as  dry  as  can  be  found  in 
the  vicinity  of  their  villages.  The  body  of  the  de- 
ceased is  clothed  in  his  best  garments,  and,  if  the  rela- 
tives can  afford  it,  new  clothes  are  obtained  for  this  pur- 
pose. His  moccasins,  rifle,  knife,  money,  silver  orna- 
ments, in  fact  the  whole  of  his  possessions,  are  placed 
near  him :  the  corpse  is  laid  with  its  face  turned  to- 
wards the  east.  A  small  quantity  of  food  is  placed 
near  the  head.  The  funeral  is  generally  attended  by 
all  the  relatives,  who  express  their  grief  by  weeping. 
An  Indian  is  buried  in  an  erect,  seated,  or  inclined 
posture,  according  to  the  wishes  and  directions  which 
he  may  have  given  previous  to  death ;  for  these  are 
always  most  implicitly  obeyed.  The  graves  in  which 
Indians  are  buried  are  generally  from  four  to  five  feet 
in  depth.  If  the  deceased  had,  previous  to  death, 
7 


116  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

signified  a  desire  to  be  deposited  in  a  tree,  his  wish  is 
attended  to ;  otherwise  the  body  is  always  interred. 
When  the  corpse  is  to  be  placed  in  a  tree,  it  is  first 
sewed  up  in  a  blanket,  and  this  is  suspended  to  the 
branches.  The  friends  of  the  deceased  visit  it  fre- 
quently until  they  observe  that  the  body  is  decaying  ; 
they  then  shake  hands  with  it  and  bid  it  a  last  fare- 
well. But  even  after  this  they  return  yearly  to  visit 
the  spot  where  it  is  deposited,  and  uniformly  leave 
some  food  near  it. 

At  the  time  of  a  funeral  they  often  light  a  fire  near 
the  h^ad  of  the  grave,  and  upon  this  they  prepare 
their  feast,  throwing  a  part  of  the  food  on  the  grave 
for  the  use  of  their  friend.  If  they  have  whiskey 
they  likewise  scatter  some  on  the  ground,  but  of  this 
they  are  sparing,  doubtless  from  the  belief  that  the 
living  require  it  much  more  than  the  dead.  An  in- 
vocation is  then  made  to  the  deceased,  who  is  en- 
treated to  speed  his  course  direct  to  the  Great  Prairie 
without  casting  his  eyes  back,  for  they  hold  that,  if  on 
his  way  to  the  land  of  spirits  he  were  to  look  behind 
him,  it  would  bring  ill  luck  upon  some  one  of  his  re- 
latives, to  whom  it  would  be  a  signal  that  his  com- 
pany was  required  by  his  departed  friend.  It  is 
customary  to  mark  the  grave  with  a  post,  on  which 
are  inscribed  in  hieroglyphics  the  deeds  of  the  de- 
ceased, whether  of  hunting  or  fighting. 

The  Chippewas  are  particular  in  their  demonstra- 
tions of  grief  for  departed  friends.  These  consist  in 
darkening  their  faces  with  charcoal,  fasting,  abstain- 
ing from  the  use  of  vermilion  and  other  ornaments  in 
dress.  They  also  make  incisions  in  their  arms,  legs 
and  other  parts  of  the  body,  from  a  belief  that  their 


HABITS  AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CIIIPPEWAS.  H7 

grief  is  internal,  and  that  the  only  way  of  dispelling 
it  is  to  give  it  a  vent  through  which  to  escape.  Their 
outward  signs  of  grief  are  not  merely  of  a  temporary 
character;  they  are  more  lasting  than  among  those 
who  consider  themselves  higher  in  the  scale  of  refine- 
ment than  the  red  man.  Chenowagesic  observed  that 
he  had  abstained  from  the  use  of  vermilion  for  the 
past  fifteen  years  on  account  of  the  loss  of  a  valued 
friend,  and  he  meant  to  persist  in  this  practice  ten 
years  longer.  The  deceased  was  not  a  relative,  merely 
a  friend.  Public  opinion  requires  of  them  some 
mourning  for  departed  relations;  but  the  Indian 
graduates  his  expressions  of  grief  according  to  the 
value  in  which  he  held  the  deceased,  rather  than  with 
reference  to  the  mere  relationship  in  which  nature  or 
accident  placed  him  in  life. 

Much  to  my  regret  the  conversation  with  Kitchi- 
nodin  was  suddenly  brought  to  a  olose  by  the  de- 
parture of  Chenowagesic  for  his  home  at  Leech  Lake. 
This  interview  with  the  missionary  was  full  of  in- 
terest, and  gave  me  a  clearer  insight  into  Indian 
character  than  I  had  as  yet  been  able  to  gather  from 
other  sources. 

The  red  man  appears  to  me  to  possess  some  ideas 
of  virtue  and  morality,  which  are  fully  as  commend- 
able as  those  that  are  supposed  by  many  philosophers 
to  be  characteristic  of  civilization  only.  True,  they 
are  perhaps  but  too  frequently  checked  in  their 
growth  by  the  uncontrolled  sway  which  his  evil  pro- 
pensities exercise  over  him  ;  propensities  which  doubt- 
less have  been  increased  by  an  indiscriminate  inter- 
course with  the  most  worthless  of  white  men,  who,  to 
serve  their  own  selfish  ends,  have  not  been  ashamed  to 


DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

stimulate  the  Indian  to  deeds  which  his   own  good 
sense  would  have  prevented  him  from  perpetrating. 

Parting  with  Chenowagesic. 

The  valuable  service  rendered  by  my  faithful  guide, 
Chenowagesic,  made  his  retirement  at  Lake  Winuibe- 
goshish  one  of  the  notable  events  of  our  voyage.  The 
ceremonies  attending  his  leave-taking  were  made  im- 
pressive by  reason  of  the  important  part  he  had 
borne  in  leading  us  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
Our  parting  took  place  in  front  of  a  cluster  of  wig- 
wams near  the  shore  of  the  lake.  George,  Paine,  the 
Lagards,  Kitchinodin  and  many  Indians  from  the 
village  were  present. 

As  soon  as  all  were  assembled  I  arose,  and,  address- 
ing Cheuowagesic,  recounted  the  leading  incidents  of 
our  journey  to  Lake  Itasca  and  beyond.  Spoke  of 
our  discovery  and  the  privations  we  had  endured  in 
the  descent  of  the  river.  Thanked  him  for  the  im- 
portant duty  he  had  performed,  and  expressed  the 
hope  that,  after  a  visit  to  his  family,  he  would  be  able 
to  rejoin  us  at  Aitkin  and  complete  the  voyage  with 
us  to  the  Gulf. 

When  I  had  concluded  my  remarks  I  paid  Cheno- 
wagesic and  Sebatise  Lagard,  who  was  to  return  to 
Leech  Lake  with  him,  for  the  time  they  had  served. 
Gave  each  a  photograph  of  myself,  and  divided 
equally  between  them  all  the  tobacco  we  had  in  re- 
serve. This  done,  Chenowagesic  straightened  himself 
up  to  his  full  height  and  began  speaking.  In  a  man- 
ner characteristic  of  the  Indian  he  prefaced  his  speech 
by  referring  to  the  circumstances  under  which  we  had 
met  at  Leech  Lake.  Related  his  impressions  on  first 


HABITS  AND  TRADITIONS  OF  THE  CHIPPEWAS.  121 

seeing  me.  Referred  to  his  promise  to  guide  me  to  the 
TRUE  SOURCE  of  the  Great  River ;  spoke  with  pride 
of  his  having  accomplished  all  that  he  had  under- 
taken, and  closed  by  trusting  that  it  might  be  his  good 
fortune  to  rejoin  us  at  Aitkin,  as  I  desired ;  but 
should  he  not  be  able  to  do  so,  he  would  anticipate 
meeting  me  and  my  companions  in  the  Happy  Hunt- 
ing Ground.  A  general  hand-shaking  followed,  after 
which  Chenowagesic  and  Sebatise  got  into  their  canoe 
and  started  for  Leech  Lake. 


CHAPTER  X. 

LAKE  WINNIBEGOSHISH  TO  GRAND  EAPIDS. 

•Nmtl)  Pag. 

CAMP  CHENOWAGESIC, 

Lake  Winnibegoshish,  Minnesota, 

July  30,  1881.  t 

NOTWITHSTANDING  the  stm  turbu- 

lent  condition  of  the  lake  and  threaten- 
ing southeasterly  winds,  we  re-embarked 
at  sunrise  and  continued  our  course  with 
much  difficulty  for  several  hours  along  its 
western  shore.  The  increasing  strength  of 
the  wind,  however,  and  consequent  heavy  sea 
forced  us  to  run  ashore  at  ten  o'clock,  at  a  point 
known  among  the  fur  traders  as  Old  School  Station. 
Here  we  were  compelled  to  spend  the  day  listening 
to  the  roar  and  swash  of  the  waves  as  they  lashed  the 
beach  in  their  fury. 

It  was  voted  that  we  would  not  venture  upon  the 
lake  again  until  the  "  white  caps"  had  entirely  disap- 
peared, and  so  we  set  to  work  to  make  ourselves  as 
comfortable  as  possible.  Tents  were  pitched,  blankets 
spread,  and  preparations  for  dinner  begun,  for  we 
were  now  in  possession  of  a  small  quantity  of  meat 
and  potatoes  secured  from  the  Indians  through  the 
kindness  of  Kitchiuodin, 
(122) 


LAKE  WINN1BEGOSIIISH  TO  GRAND  RAPIDS.  123 

All  day  we  waited  and  watched  anxiously  for  a 
calm,  but  it  did  not  come,  and  finally  despairing  of  an 
opportunity  to  launch  our  canoes  before  morning,  we 
retired  to  our  tents.  About  midnight  our  slumbers 
were  disturbed  by  the  sound  of  paddles  and  voices 
in  the  little  cove  on  the  shores  of  which  we  were  en- 
camped ;  then  the  slight  grating  of  a  canoe  on  the 
beach  ;  and  presently  two  villainous-looking  Indians 
appeared  armed  with  Winchester  rifles,  one  of  whom 
I  learned  from  my  interpreter  was  a  double  murderer. 

They  seemed  to  feel  quite  at  home  ;  blew  the 
embers  of  our  fire  into  a  blaze  and  curled  up  in  their 
blankets  beside  it.  We  let  them  alone,  and  though 
they  made  no  further  demonstration,  we  hardly  slept 
as  soundly  afterwards. 


(fceutl) 


CAMP  LAGARD, 

Ten  Miles  below  Winnibeyoshiah, 

July  Thirty-first. 

On  coming  from  our  tents  a  little  before  sunrise  we 
found  Wiunibegoshish  as  angry  and  boisterous  as  ever. 
A  heavy  sea,  the  presence  of  white  caps,  and  the  roar 
of  waves  as  they  broke  upon  the  beach,  were  not  well 
calculated  to  hasten  the  launch  of  our  canoes. 

Breakfast  was  soon  ready  and  over.  A  hurried 
consultation  led  me  to  decide  that,  let  the  consequences 
be  what  they  might,  we  could  not  wait  longer,  but 
must  cross  the  lake  at  once  and  enter  the  river.  Our 
effort  was  a  success,  but  was  attended  with  consider- 
able risk,  the  wind  being  so  strong  ahead  as  to  greatly 


124  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

retard  the  advance  of  the  canoes,  which  were  some- 
times nearly  filled  with  water. 

After  five  hours  of  vigorous  paddling  against  wind 
and  wave  we  reached  the  outlet  and  continued  the  de- 
scent of  the  river,  gliding  along  delightfully,  aided  by 
a  brisk  current,  until  we  came  to  another  lake  known 
as  Little  Winnibegoshish.  Here  we  again  encountered 
high  winds  and  rough  water,  but  by  hugging  the 
eastern  shore  around  to  the  outlet  we  avoided  some  of 
the  unpleasant  experiences  of  the  morning. 

Little  Winnibegoshish  is  only  about  three-fourths 
of  a  mile  below  its  namesake.  It  is  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water  of  very  respectable  dimensions,  and  but  for 
its  nearness  to  the  larger  lake  would  attract  much 
more  attention  than  it  has  hitherto  received. 

The  Lakes  Winnibegoshish  occupy  a  position  on 
the  American  Continent,  and  particularly  in  relation 
to  the  Upper  Mississippi,  which  makes  it  desirable  to 
acquire  more  accurate  details  and  observations  than  it 
fell  to  our  lot  to  be  enabled  to  make.  But  in  the  ab- 
sence of  such  data,  such  facts  as  our  means  permitted 
may  be  substituted.  We  were  impressed  with  their 
extent,  and  the  picturesque  and  diversified  appearance 
of  their  woodland  shores.  Their  geological  features 
are  similar  to  those  of  Bemidji  and  Cass  lakes,  being 
a  basin  of  diluvial  formation,  occupying  a  position  on 
the  great  marine  sand  district  of  Northern  Minnesota. 
This  district  abounds  in  pure  springs,  and  is  so  im- 
pervious in  its  lower  strata  that  it  has  probably  re- 
tained to  the  present  day  more  water  in  the  character 
of  lakes,  large  and  small,  than  any  other  part  of  the 
world. 

There  is  a  portage  from  Winnibegoshish  for  light 


LAKE  WINNIBEGOSHISH  TO  GRAND  RAPIDS.    125 

packages  of  goods  across  the  summit  level  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley  into  Red  Lake,  and  the  fertile  valley 
of  Red  River.  The  latter  embraces  the  settlements 
planned  by  the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  the  inhabitants  of 
which  maintained  their  existence  for  several  years 
against  the  strenuous  opposition  of  the  Northwest 
Company. 


CAMP  KITCHINODIN, 

White  Oak  Point,  Minnesota, 

August  First. 

Paine  sounded  reveille  at  ten  minutes  after  four 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  All  turned  out  promptly  and 
began  preparations  for  getting  on  the  river.  Progress 
in  our  canoes  very  slow.  We  followed  the  windings 
of  the  river  ten  miles,  to  advance  two  towards  our 
objective.  Had  dried  fish  and  potatoes  for  dinner. 
Met  a  party  of  Indian  hay-makers  after  dinner,  of 
whom  we  purchased  a  small  quantity  of  dried  meat. 
Passed  the  mouth  of  Leech  Lake  River  on  the  right 
hand  between  three  and  four  o'clock.  This  is  a  con- 
siderable stream,  is  the  outlet  of  Leech  Lake,  and 
nearly  doubles  the  volume  of  the  Mississippi  at  its 
point  of  entrance.  We  reached  White  Oak  Point  be- 
tween six  and  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  where  we 
found  a  Chippewa  village  presided  over  by  a  chief 
with  an  unpronounceable  name,  which  Lagard  in- 
terpreted as  Dull  Knife. 

Not  caring  to  avail  myself  of  the  courtesies  extended 
by  Dull  Knife,  we  pitched  our  tents  in  an  open  field 
rather  than  occupy  a  filthy  wigwam  with  ten  or  fifteen 


126  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Chippewas.  These  Indians  appeared  to  regard  our 
arras  and  equipments  with  considerable  curiosity,  and 
especially  my  self-acting  revolver,  a  weapon  with 
which  they  had  had  no  experience.  Wishing  to  keep 
them  at  a  respectful  distance  from  my  tent,  I  found 
much  pleasure  in  showing  them  how  effective  it  could 
be  made  in  skillful  hands.  The  experiment  proved 
successful,  for  they  could  not  readily  understand  how 
pulling  the  trigger  could  cock  and  discharge  the  re- 
volver at  the  same  instant.  Naturally  superstitious, 
they  were  inclined  to  believe  that  the  evil  one  had 
taken  possession  of  me  and  could  not  be  persuaded  to 
approach  my  quarters,  although  I  found  them  quite 
sociable  whenever  I  appeared  among  them  in  their 
village. 

Dull  Knife  was  well  advanced  in  years  but  had 
none  of  the  infirmities  of  old  age.  The  women  were 
all  very  ugly  and  the  children  looked  like  little  imps, 
in  whose  countenances  and  apparently  deformed  bodies 
we  could  scarcely  discover  the  rudiments  of  men  as 
tall  and  elegant  as  those  who  stood  before  us.  Most 
of  their  youth  had  gone  out  on  a  hunting  excursion. 
The  men  whom  we  saw  were  almost  naked,  having  no 
other  garment  than  the  breech-cloth,  but  as  we  drew 
near  them  they  gathered  up  their  blankets.  The 
women  wore  a  short  gown  and  a  blanket ;  the  children 
ran  about  naked,  with  no  other  appendage  than  a  belt 
about  their  loins.  It  is  curious  to  observe  that  all 
Indians,  whether  old  or  young,  wear  a  belt  even  when 
they  have  nothing  to  attach  to  it;  and  the  children, 
who  seldom  assume  the  breech-cloth  before  maturity,- 
invariably  have  a  belt  tied  around  them  as  soon  as 
they  are  able  to  walk. 


LAKE  WINNIBEGOSHISH  TO  GRAND  RAPIDS.   127 

One  of  the  \vigwams  which  we  visited  was  about 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter  and  fully  twelve  feet  high  at 
its  centre ;  it  was  formed  of  bark  secured  to  a  frame 
made  of  poles  and  covered  with  the  same  material.  Like 
the  wigwams  visited  at  Bemidji  and  Winnibegoshish 
it  had  the  appearance  of  being  very  comfortable.  The 
fire  was  made  in  the  middle,  the  smoke  passing  out 
between  the  poles;  the  sides  of  the  interior  were 
occupied  with  a  frame  three  feet  high  and  four  or 
five  feet  wide,  which  was  covered  with  blankets 
and  skins,  upon  which  the  inmates  sit  and  sleep. 
There  is  no  partition  or  anything  that  can  serve 
as  a  screen  to  separate  one  part  of  the  family  from, 
the  other. 

The  disposition  of  these  Indians  was  friendly.  The 
object  of  the  expedition  was  explained  to  them,  to 
which  they  made  no  reply,  but  the  chief  directed  his 
squaw  to  give  us  some  maple  sugar  in  return  for  the 
tobacco  we  had  presented  him.  He  expressed  his  regret 
at  having  no  fresh  meat  to  give  us,  but  added  that  if 
his  hunters  returned  that  evening  with  meat  he  would 
send  some  to  our  camp.  We  were  somewhat  surprised 
by  their  familiar  manner,  which  we  at  first  mistook  for 
intentional  impudence. 

They  all  collected  around  us  and  carefully  examined 
our  equipments,  witF  which  they  seemed  highly 
pleased.  One  of  them  drew  ray  brother's  hunting 
knife  from  the  sheath,  and  having  looked  at  it  for 
some  time,  returned  it;  he  then  took  Paine's  hat, 
which  was  a  sombrero,  and  after  having  examined  this 
also  with  care,  tried  it  on  his  own  head.  All  this,  how- 
ever, seemed  to  proceed  rather  from  childish  curiosity 
than  from  any  intention  to  give  offence.  After  a  time 


128  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

they  began  to  beg  for  money  which  soon  compelled  us 
to  retire  to  our  tents. 


POTTER  HOUSE, 

Grand  Rapids,  Minnesota, 

August  Second. 

Had  a  light  breakfast  on  dried  fish  and  potatoes 
obtained  from  Indians.  Launched  our  canoes  at  seven 
o'clock.  While  descending  the  river  we  met  three 
canoes  filled  with  Chippewas  and  their  families.  They 
were  freighted  with  heavy  rolls  of  birch  bark,  such 
as  their  canoes  are  made  of;  together  with  a  small 
quantity  of  snake-root  designed  for  the  trading  post  at 
Grand  Rapids.  We  halted  at  two  o'clock  for  dinner, 
which  consisted  of  dried  meat,  potatoes  and  blue- 
berries. The  annoyance  suffered  from  mosquitoes  on 
this  great  plateau  was  almost  past  endurance.  We 
re-embarked  at  a  quarter  past  four  and  reached 
Pokegama  Falls  at  five  o'clock.  At  this  point  the 
first  rock  stratum  and  the  first  wooded  island  are  seen. 
The  river  has  an  aggregate  fall  of  twenty  feet. 

Making  a  portage  around  the  falls,  we  continued 
our  course  towards  Grand  Rapids  two  miles  and  a  half 
down  the  stream,  shooting  the  rapids  just  above  and 
arriving  at  the  little  hamlet  of  the  same  name  a  few 
minutes  before  seven  o'clock.  This  pioneer  village 
consists  of  a  hotel,  two  stores,  a  saloon  and  three  or 
four  private  houses,  all  built  of  logs.  The  Potter 
House  is  the  first  hotel  encountered  in  the  descent  of 
the  river,  and  is  intended  chiefly  for  the  accommodation 
of  hunters  and  lumbermen,  who  gather  here  during  the 


LAKE  WINNIBEGOSniSH  TO  GRAND  KAPTDV.     19,9 

fall  and  winter  months.  It  was  with  quickened  pace 
we  answered  the  call  of  "supper"  at  this  house,  and 
with  a  keen  appetite  that  we  sat  down  to  the  first 
civilized  table  we  had  seen  in  seventeen  days.  The 
bill  of  fare,  though  not  elaborate,  was  ample  and  con- 
sisted of  beefsteak,  potatoes,  raspberries,  tea  and 
coifee.  Very  little  ceremony  was  observed,  and  we 
"  stood  not  upon  the  order  of  our  going.'* 


CHAPTER  XI. 

GRAND   RAPIDS   TO   AITKIN, 

Ulan. 

CAMP  PORTAGE, 

Twenty  Miles  Below  Grand  Rapids, 
August  3,  1881. 

'E  were  detained  at  Grand  Rapids  until 
after  dinner,  in  consequence  of  a  heavy 
thunder-storm,  which  set  in  early  in  the 
morning  and  continued  throughout  the 
forenoon.  Before  leaving  this  place  we  pro- 
vided ourselves  with  ten  pounds  of  flour,  the 
same  quantity  of  bacon,  one  pound  of  coifee  and 
three  of  sugar,  rations  considered  necessary  to 
carry  us  to  Aitkin.  George  and  Paine  were  compelled 
to  exchange  their  birch  canoe  for  a  new  one,  as  it  had 
been  rendered  onsea  worthy  through  the  rough  usage 
incident  to  our  long  voyage. 

Re-embarked  at  one  o'clock  after  shaking  hands 
with  every  man  in  the  place,  a  thing  which  we  were 
not  likely  to  attempt  in  towns  farther  down  the 
stream.  The  storm  had  passed  away,  leaving  a  genial 
temperature  and  a  placid  surface,  with  the  current 
somewhat  accelerated  by  the  storm  of  the  forenoon. 
We  dipped  our  paddles  with  increased  energy  and 

made  good  progress  toward  the  close  9f  the  day. 
(130) 


GRAND  RAPIDS  TO  AITKIN. 

.fourteenth  Dau. 

CAMP  THUNDER, 

Seventy-five  Miles  Below  Grand  Rapids, 
August  Fourth. 

Put  our  canoes  into  the  water  a  few  minutes  after 
six  o'clock  in  the  morning.  "We  noted  a  decided 
change  in  the  scenery.  Higher  banks  and  greater 
variety  of  trees,  grasses  and  flowers.  Halted  for 
dinner  near  the  mouth  of  Swan  River.  This  is  a 
considerable  stream,  originating  in  Swan  Lake,  near 
the  source  of  the  Saint  Louis  River,  which  empties 
into  Lake  Superior. 

The  current  of  the  Mississippi  continued  to  in- 
crease in  strength  ;  its  velocity  during  the  descent  of 
this  day  was  estimated  by  Paine  at  two  and  a  half 
miles  per  hour.  We  passed  a  rapid  a  few  miles  below 
Trout  River,  where  there  is  a  computed  descent  of 
three  feet  in  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards. 

We  met  the  City  of  Aitkin,  a  small  steamboat, 
late  in  the  afternoon,  on  its  way  from  Aitkin  to  Grand 
Rapids.  This  pioneer  craft  was  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Houghton  of  the  former  place,  and  deserves 
special  mention  as  the  first  boat  propelled  by  steam 
which  we  had  thus  far  seen  in  the  descent  of  the  river. 
The  clatter  of  a  stern-wheel,  much  puffing  and 
blowing,  followed  by  the  report  of  several  shots  fired 
by  sportive  passengers,  betokened  the  approach  of  this 
wonder  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  The  captain  of 
the  Aitkin  and  his  gallant  crew  must  have  been 
well  advised  of  our  movements,  for,  as  soon  as  they 
had  reached  a  point  opposite  the  one  we  had  taken  on 
the  shore,  they  saluted  us  with  several  rounds  of 


132  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

cheers,  supplemented  by  a  general  discharge  of  fire- 
arms. Thiscompliment  was  reciprocated  on  our  part  by 
three  cheers  and  a  Chippewa  yell  for  Captain  Hough  ton. 
We  disembarked  a  few  minutes  after  six  o'clock 
and,  hurriedly  pitching  our  tents,  took  shelter  from 
a  heavy  thunder-storm  which  set  in  just  as  we  were 
pulling  our  canoes  from  the  water.  In  spite  of  every 
precaution  our  tents  were  blown  down  and  all  hands 
thoroughly  drenched  by  the  rain  which  fell  upon  us 
in  torrents.  The  tents  were  pitched  again,  and  again 
dashed  to  the  ground  by  the  wind,  which  came  whist- 
ling and  roaring  through  the  pines  about  us. 

Hfteentlj  Dan. 

CAMP  MOSQUITO, 

Twenty-eight  Miles  Above  Aitkin, 
August  Fifth. 

The  rain-storm  which  opened  as  we  were  pitching 
our  tents  at  Camp  Thunder  continued  throughout  the 
night,  and  we  found  clothing,  blankets  and  equipments 
thoroughly  soaked  in  the  morning.  Breakfasted  on 
bread,  bacon  and  coffee.  Got  into  our  canoes  at  seven 
o'clock.  Met  a  party  of  Indians  in  the  forenoon 
coming  up  the  river.  Halted  and  talked  with  them 
a  few  minutes  through  Lagard,  who  had  seen  two  of 
their  number  some  years  before. 

Stopped  at  a  log-cabin  in  the  afternoon  and  secured 
bread  and  vegetables  of  an  Indian  woman  who  was 
the  wife  of  a  white  man.  She  spoke  very  indifferent 
English,  but  her  children  readily  understood  our 
wants,  and  when  they  had  communicated  them  she 
seemed  to  find  pleasure  in  supplying  us  with  the  best 
her  humble  cabin  afforded. 


GRAND  RAPIDS  TO  AITKIN.  133 

Camp  Mosquito,  like  most  of  our  encampments, 
was  located  on  high  ground,  overlooking  the  Missis- 
sippi, and,  being  in  a  bend  of  the  river,  gave  us  a  fine 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  It  may  here  be 
observed  that  the  course  of  the  Mississippi,  below  the 
Falls  of  Pokegama,  is  still  serpentine,  but  strikingly 
less  so  than  above,  and  its  bends  are  not  so  short  and 
abrupt.  Its  general  course,  until  it  reaches  the  rock 
formation  of  Pokegama,  is  easterly  ;  thence  to  Sandy 
Lake  inlet  it  flows  in  a  south-easterly  direction ; 
from  this  point  to  the  inlet  of  Crow  Wing  it  is  de- 
flected to  the  southwest;  thence,  almost  due  south,  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Watab  River ;  and  thence  again  south- 
east to  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony.  A  geographical 
line  dropped  from  the  inlet  of  Sandy  Lake,  where  the 
channel  is  first  deflected,  to  the  south-west,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Minnesota  River,  forms  a  vast  bow-shaped  area 
of  prairie  and  forest  lands  of  high  agricultural  capa- 
bilities, whose  products  will  reach  eastern  and  southern 
markets  through  the  railways  and  waterways  now 
opened  and  opening  for  the  convenience  of  the  settler. 
These  prairies  and  grove  lauds  constitute  the  ancient 
area  of  the  Isati,  described  by  Hennepin,  and  are  now 
known  chiefly  as  having  been  the  predatory  border, 
or  battle-ground,  of  the  Sioux,  Dakotas  and  Chippe- 
was. 

0brtcentl)  £)aj). 

DOUGLASS  HOUSE, 

A  it  kin,   Minnesota, 

August  Sixth. 

Struck  tents  in  the  morning  with  high  hopes — the 
prospect  of  reaching  Aitkin  in  season  for  dinner.  Since 
leaving  Winuibegoshish  "Aitkin"  had  been  the  first 


134  DOWN  THE  CHEAT  RIVER. 

word  in  the  morning  and  the  last  word  at  night.  It 
meant  something  more  than  a  return  to  civilization;  it 
meant,  for  the  remainder  of  our  voyage,  less  exposure, 
better  accommodations  and  more  congenial  surround- 
ings than  had  fallen  to  our  lot  in  the  Chippewa  country. 
We  reached  the  mouth  of  Mud  River  at  two  o'clock. 
Listening  to  the  advice  of  Lagard  we  attempted  to 
paddle  up  to  Aitken,  but  found  the  stream  too  shal- 
low and  the  current  too  strong  to  make  it  practicable, 
so  I  ordered  my  canoe,  the  Discovery,  ashore  and 
walked  up  to  the  village.  George  and  his  new  pilot, 
whom  he  had  christened  "  Commodore,"  continued  for 
a  time  their  endeavor  to  arrive  at  Aitken  from  the 
water  front,  but  much  to  their  chagrin  capsized  about 
three  hundred  yards  below  the  town,  in  three  feet  of 
water.  Beyond  being  thoroughly  soaked,  however,  they 
were  not  injured,  and  George  added  another  chapter 
to  his  already  long  list  of  mishaps.  Just  as  his  birch 
was  rolling  its  occupants  into  the  water  he  set  us  all 
roaring  with  laughter  by  singing  out  to  his  pilot: 
"Don't  get  wet,  Commodore!  Stick  to  the  canoe! 
Nothing  so  refreshing  as  the  bottom  of  Mud  River! " 
Distance  traversed  this  day  about  thirty  miles.  La- 
gard left  for  Leech  Lake  soon  after  our  arrival,  with  the 
intention  of  rejoining  us  at  Brainerd  and  continuing 
with  us  in  our  voyage  to  the  Gulf. 

-  Aitkin  is  the  county-seat  of  Aitkin  County,  the 
most  northern  settlement  of  any  importance  on  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  nearest  to  its  source.  The  county 
of  which  it  forms  the  capital  has  an  area  of  nineteen 
hundred  square  miles,  and  contains  a  scattered  popu- 
lation of  only  about  four  hundred,  half  of  which 
number  are  found  in  the  town  of  Aitken.  The  latter 


GRAND  RAPIDS  TO  AITKIN.  135 

is  situated  on  Mud  River,  near  its  confluence  with  the 
Mississippi,  and  was  founded  by  William  Aitkin,  an 
enterprising  fur  trader,  about  the  year  1832.  The 
inhabitants  for  the  most  part  are  actively  engaged  in 
the  lumber  trade.  Situated  on  the  line  of  the  North- 
ern Pacific  Railway  and  at  the  junction  of  two  rivers, 
one  of  them  the  greatest  waterway  on  the  continent, 
Aitken  has,  in  consequence,  within  the  last  few  years, 
become  a  flourishing  centre  of  the  lumber  interest,  and 
will  doubtless  make  rapid  progress  in  population  and 
the  development  of  its  industry.  It  is  distant  from 
Duluth  in  a  westerly  direction  only  eighty-eight  miles 
and,  connected  with  the  last-named  city  by  railway, 
commands  transportation  facilities  on  both  Lake 
Superior  and  the  Mississippi. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

TEN  DAYS   AT   AITKIN. 

Reorganization — Lecture  Appointments — Modern 
Canoes. 

N  order  to  perfect  plans  for  a  continuation 
of  the  descent  of  the  Mississippi,  reor- 
ganize our  little  party,  inspect  the  new 
canoes  which  were  awaiting  us,  prepare 
the  lecture  which  I  proposed  to  deliver  at 
certain  points,  and  send  forward  an  advance 
agent,   I   concluded   to   remain   a   few  days  at 
Aitkin.     Ten   days   were    thus   consumed  and 
profitably  employed. 

Mine  host  of  the  hotel,  Carlos  Douglass,  I  found 
genial,  hospitable  and  communicative;  and  to  him  we 
•were  indebted  for  comforts  of  which  we  had  been  for 
some  time  necessarily  deprived.  He  also  directed 
our  rambles  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  and  added 
much  to  the  enjoyment  of  our  stay  here.  The  soil  of 
the  surrounding  country  is  rich,  and  produces  boun- 
teously, the  surface  being  interspersed  with  numerous 
small  lakes  of  clear,  fresh  water  abounding  in  fish,  and 
their  shores  covered  with  a  fine  growth  of  pine,  spruce 
and  tamarack. 

At  Aitkin  we  dispensed  with  two  of  our  birch-bark 
canoes,  retaining  only  one  for  myself  for  my  journey 
(136) 


TEN  DAYS  AT  AITKIN.  137 

down  to  Saint  Paul.  Two  modern  canoes  had  been  pre- 
viously purchased  at  Saint  Paul  and  forwarded  to  Ait- 
kin  to  meet  us  on  our  arrival.  One  of  these,  a  Rushton 
canoe,  was  built  by  a  native  of  Saint  Lawrence  County, 
New  York,  in  the  neighborhood  of  my  old  home. 
While  on  my  way  up  the  river  I  had  met  Mr.  A.  H. 
Seigfried  at  Saint  Paul.  This  gentleman  is  an  attache1 
of  the  Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press,  and  a  veteran  canoeist  J 
he  very  courteously  offered  to  place  at  my  disposal 
his  canoe,  as  being  well  adapted,  in  his  judgment,  for 
navigating  the  Mississippi.  This  snug  craft  was 
Rushton'a  "  No.  93,"  and  was  designed  to  carry  two 
persons.  It  had  full  bearings,  a  seven-feet  cockpit, 
and  consequently  was  sufficiently  roomy.  It  was  fitted 
with  back-board,  cushion  and  the  necessary  double- 
blade  paddles.  The  keel  and  stern  were  of  oak,  the 
ribs  of  red  elm,  and  the  sides  of  white  cedar.  Her 
length  was  sixteen  feet,  width  at  the  bottom  of  the  top 
streak  thirty  inches,  and  on  the  top  twenty-eight 
inches.  The  depth  of  gunwale  was  nine  and  one- 
half  inches ;  between  deck  and  floor,  twelve  inches,  and 
at  the  ends,  seventeen  inches.  Her  weight,  without 
fittings,  was  eighty  pounds ;  and  though  her  capacity 
was  set  down  at  two  persons,  we  afterwards  found  it 
was  not  impossible  to  carry  three.  She  was  one  of 
the  several  patterns  of  Rushton's  "American  Travel- 
ing Canoe,"  and  could  be  fitted  with  a  leg-of-rnutton 
sail  and  used  as  a  sailing  boat.  However,  hoisting 
sail  on  so  light  a  craft  on  the  Mississippi  involved  a 
risk,  which,  in  our  inexperience,  we  did  not  care  to  run ; 
so  stuck  to  our  paddles  throughout  the  entire  voyage. 
On  reaching  Aitkin  on  our  way  down  the  river  I 
found  the  following  letter,  among  others,  awaiting  me : 


138  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

"PIONEER  PRESS," 

Saint  Paul,  Minnesota, 

July  28,  1881. 
CAPTAIN  WILLARD  GLAZIER, 

Aitkin,  Minnesota: 

MY  DEAR  SIR  :  I  am  advised  by  Mr.  Warren  Potter,  of  Aitkin, 
that  the  boats  have  both  arrived  there,  and  are  in  his  charge.  I 
hand  you  herewith  Mr.  Hinckley's  receipt,  and  bill-of-lading  of  my 
boat.  Expecting  to  be  absent  from  the  second  to  the  thirteenth  of 
August,  inclusive,  I  may  not  be  here  to  receive  the  news  of  your 
arrival  at  Aitkin,  but  hope  you  may  not  reach  Saint  Paul  ahead  of  me. 
I  want  to  have  a  little  pull  down  the  Wisconsin,  and  shall  hope  to 
meet  you  here  in  due  time.  Yours  very  truly, 

A.  H.  SEIQFRIED. 

During  my  halt  at  Saint  Paul  on  my  way  north,  Mr. 
Seigfried  had  made  me  acquainted  with  H.  L.  Hinck- 
ley,  a  gentleman  largely  interested  in  canoes  and  their 
patrons,  and  having  under  his  control  quite  a  fleet  of 
all  sizes  -and  builds  on  White-Bear  Lake,  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  near  Saint  Paul.  From  this  gentleman  I 
obtained  much  information  of  a  practical  character. 
Mr.  Hinckley  showed  me  several  of  his  canoes,  and 
offered  valuable  suggestions  as  to  the  selection  of  a 
second  boat  for  the  accommodation  of  our  small  party. 
I  concluded  to  take  a  "  Racine  Saint  Paul,"  built  on 
the  Rob  Roy  pattern.  As  all  canoeists  are  aware,  the 
"Rob  Roy"  was  the  canoe  originally  adopted  by  Mr. 
Macgregor,  and  in  build  is  a  cross  between  the 
"  birch-bark  "  of  the  Indians  and  the  "  kyak  "  of  the 
Esquimaux.  It  is  long  and  pointed,  each  end  contain- 
ing a  water-tight  compartment.  In  my  judgment  the 
"  Rob  Roy  "  pattern  is  the  best  boat  for  cruising  on 
lakes  and  rivers,  its  build  combining  strength  with 
lightness.  Mr.  Macgregor  circumnavigated  the  Baltic 
Sea  in  his  fourteen -feet  "  Rob  Roy,"  coasted  the  bays 


TEN  DAYS  AT  AITKIN.  \ 39 

and  inlets  of  Sweden  and  Norway,  and  threaded  the 
Danube,  the  Nile,  and  the  Jordan.  The  "Racine 
Saint  Paul,"  being  an  improved  "  Rob  Roy,"  was  a 
better-sailing  craft  and  possessed  equally  good  pad- 
dling qualities.  The  length  of  her  deck  was  fourteen 
feet ;  greatest  beam,  twenty -six  inches ;  depth  from  top 
of  gunwale,  twenty-one  inches,  with  a  cockpit  eighteen 
by  forty-two  inches.  She  was  propelled  by  a  double- 
bladed  paddle,  and  was  capable  of  supporting  the 
weight  of  a  man  if  the  middle  was  full  of  water.  She 
was,  therefore,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  a  life-boat, 
which  it  was  impossible  to  swamp.  Like  the  Rushton 
canoe,  the  "  Saint  Paul "  could  be  fitted  with  a  sail,  but 
we  preferred  to  make  our  enterprise  a  veritable  canoe 
voyage,  and  so  dispensed  with  a  sail  in  her  case  also. 

The  subjoined  letter,  referring  to  the  boat  purchased 
of  Mr.  Hinckley,  also  reached  me  here: 

WHITE-BEAR  LAKE, 
Near  Saint  Paid,  Minnesota, 

August  9,  1881. 
CAPTAIN  WILLARD  GLAZIER, 

Ailkin,  Minnesota: 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  have  read  in  the  papers  of  your  arrival  at  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  presume  that  you  are  now  well  on 
your  way  back  to  Saint  Paul. 

Thinking  you  were  beyond  the  reach  of  mail-carriers,  I  have 
delayed  writing  you,  and  perhaps  delayed  too  long. 

As  to  the  "  Rushton  "  canoe  which  I  shipped  to  Aitkin  for  you, 
I  found  it  difficult  to  arrange  the  air-chambers  so  as  to  be  promptly 
taken  out  and  put  in,  as  was  my  first  intention.  They  can  be  re- 
moved by  taking  out  a  few  screws,  but  this  may  be  found  somewhat 
troublesome.  If,  in  this  particular,  or  any  other,  the  boat  does  not 
satisfy  you,  I  trust  we  shall  be  able  to  arrange  matters  before  you 
start  southward  from  this  point. 

If  you  find  the  canoe  too  small  for  your  purpose  it  will  not  be 
too  late  to  substitute  one  of  my  larger  boats,  one  which  I  feel  sure 
will  be  well  adapted  for  your  voyage  on  the  lower  Mississippi.  I 


140  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

consider  the  canoe  yon  purchased  of  me  well  adapted  for  two  men, 
with  a  moderate  amount  of  baggage.  She  has  carried  three  men, 
but  I  would  not  recommend  more  than  two. 

I  wrote  Mr.  Warren  Potter,  of  Aitkin,  concerning  a  small  piece 
of  work  on  the  boat  which  had  been  overlooked  before  she  left  Saint 
Paul.  I  hope  my  letter  will  reach  you  at  Aitkin,  and  wishing  you 
fair  weather  and  a  comfortable  time  generally, 

I  am  very  truly  yours, 

H.  L.  HlNCKLEY. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

AITKIN     TO     BRAINERD. 


PINE  KNOLL, 

Thirty  Miles  Below  Aitkin, 
August.  16,  1881. 

N  the  morning  of  the  sixteenth  of  August 
our  little  fleet  metaphorically  weighed 
anchor  and  set  sail  from  Aitkin — in 
other  words,  we  launched  our  canoes 
and  paddled  out  into  the  stream  in  presence 
of  a  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants, 
who  had  assembled  on  the  banks  to  witness  our 
departure  and  wish  us  a  successful  voyage.  As 
captain  of  the  Discovery,  I  led  the  way,  my  entire 
crew  consisting  of  a  pilot  engaged  at  Aitkin.  Follow- 
ing me  came  my  brother  in  the  Rushton  canoe,  which 
we  had  named  the  Alice  after  my  little  daughter. 
He  was  also  accompanied  by  a  pilot.  Mr.  Paine  in. 
the  Itasca,  as  we  had  christened  the  Rob  Roy,  though 
not  "an  elderly  naval  man,"  might  have  appropri- 
ately recited : 

"  Oh,  I  am  a  cook  and  a  captain  bold, 

And  the  mate  of  this  canoe; 
And  a  bo'sun  tight  and  a  midshipmile, 
And  the  crew  and  pilot  too;" 

(HI) 


142  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

not  because  he  had  dined  on  his  crew,  but  because  he 
sat  alone  in  his  Rob  Roy,  and  their  duties  devolved  on 
him.  Thus  we  glided  from  this  hospitable  shore,  our 
immediate  destination  being  Brainerd,  ninety-five  miles 
distant  by  the  river,  but  only  twenty-seven  as  the 
crow  flies,  the  Mississippi  along  its  entire  length 
being  very  tortuous.  We  might  have  saved  ourselves 
many  miles  of  canoeing  by  making  portages.  In  one 
instance  the  river  took  a  sweep  of  seven  miles,  and 
returned  to  within  five  rods  of  its  starting  point.  In 
this  section  it  is  about  fifty  yards  in  width,  with  a 
current  of  about  six  miles  an  hour.  It  frequently 
changes  its  course.  "  Snags  "  and  "  sawyers  "  abound, 
but  gave  us  little  trouble,  our  small  light  craft  easily 
gliding  around  them.  The  National  Government  is 
busy,  even  here,  in  removing  obstructions,  and  the  day 
is  not  distant  when  a  line  of  small  steamers  will  run 
between  Aitkin  and  Brainerd.  The  banks  of  the 
river  are  low,  rising  but  a  few  feet  above  its  surface, 
while  broad  savannas,  covered  in  summer  with  blue- 
grass  from  six  to  eight  feet  in  height,  are  spread  over 
a  wide  extent  of  country,  commencing  at  the  borders 
of  the  river,  and  are  annually  submerged  at  high 
water.  The  grass  makes  excellent  fodder  for  stock. 

The  timber  of  this  region  is  chiefly  pine,  with  occa- 
sionally a  clump  of  spruce  or  tamarack.  The  surface 
of  the  land  away  from  the  river  is  somewhat  rugged  ; 
and  the  frequent  windings  of  the  stream,  the  green 
savannas,  and  the  sombre  forests,  unite  in  producing 
a  very  pleasing  landscape.  Water-fowl  are  found  in 
abundance  on  all  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  while  mosquitoes  exceed  them  in  numbers,  they 
may  almost  be  said  to  rival  them  in  size !  New  Jersey 


AITKIN  TO  BRAINERD.  143 

and  Florida  are  famed  for  their  mosquitoes.  The 
swamps  and  bayous  of  Louisiana  have  their  myriads; 
but  of  all  these  pestiferous  insects  I  have  ever  seen 
and  suffered  from,  I  can  truthfully  say  that  the  mos- 
quitoes of  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  in 
numbers  and  voraciousness  are  unequalled. 

Between  Aitkin  and  Brainerd  there  were  but  two 
habitations  to  be  seen  from  the  river.  With  this  ex- 
ception, all  was  a  solitary  wilderness.  The  day  was 
wearing  to  its  close  when  we  came  in  sight  of  the  first 
of  these  rustic  homes.  It  was  a  log-cabin  perched 
upon  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  and  occupied  by 
an  American  named  John  Polly  and  his  family.  The 
bank,  which  they  had  named  "Pine  Knoll,"  was 
steep — perhaps  twenty  feet  in  height.  Ascending  it 
with  some  difficulty  we  challenged  the  hospitality  of 
the  household.  Half  a  dozen  daughters  of  the  house, 
ranging  from  ten  years  upwards,  greeted  us,  and  we 
were  at  once  made  cordially  welcome.  The  cabin  com- 
prised two  rooms  and  a  loft.  It  was  built  in  a  clearing 
and  surrounded  by  beech,  birch,  and  maple  trees.  The 
proprietor,  Mr.  Polly,  had  a  thriving  garden,  in  which 
were  promising  crops  of  corn  and  potatoes,  and  his 
stock  appeared  in  fine  condition,  while  the  industry 
and  good  taste  of  the  young  maidens  had  made  the 
exterior  of  the  premises  bright  with  flowers.  The 
interior  was  plain,  and  contained  only  the  rude  furni- 
ture of  the  pioneer,  but  it  bore  a  homelike  and  com- 
fortable look ;  and  copies  of  "  Harper's  Monthly  "  and 
the  "  Century,"  together  with  other  current  literature, 
were  lying  upon  the  table,  while  the  walls  were 
decorated  with  sundry  wood  engravings  extracted  from 
the  illustrated  weeklies.  The  family  proved  to  be  a 


144  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

very  superior  one.  They  had  resided  in  half  a  dozen 
different  states,  and  had  finally  found  a  home  in  this 
wilderness  ;  the  nearest  white  settlement  being  Aitkin, 
twenty  miles  distant  by  the  river. 

After  a  pleasant  evening's  intercourse  with  the  family 
the  hour  came  for  retiring,  and  we  bunked  upon  the 
floor,  the  cabin  affording  no  better  sleeping  accommoda- 
tion for  casual  visitors,  who  seldom  if  ever  trouble  their 
domestic  arrangements  and  circumscribed  limits.  We 
might  have  reposed  peacefully  through  the  night,  had 
not  a  sudden  and  severe  thunder-storm  sent  rivulets  of 
water  through  the  cracks  and  fissures  of  the  log  struct- 
ure, which  meandered  in  numerous  and  vigorous 
streams  across  the  floor  on  which  we  had  made  our 
beds.  Mrs.  Polly  was  much  annoyed  at  this  state 
of  things,  and  with  many  apologies  endeavored  to 
convince  us  that  she  was  very  much  surprised  at  such 
an  occurrence.  The  storm  came  to  an  end  about 
midnight;  the  water  was  mopped  up,  and,  wrapping 
our  blankets  once  more  about  us,  we  lay  down  again 
upon  our  damp  couch,  and  slept  soundly  till  day- 
light. 


CAMP  DISCOMFORT, 

Mouth  of  Pine  River,  Minnesota, 

August  Seventeenth. 

Launched  our  canoes  at  seven  o'clock,  with  colors 
flying  and  all  hands  in  the  best  of  spirits.  After 
presenting  each  member  of  our  party  with  a  bouquet 
the  Pollys  took  position  on  the  bank  of  the  river  and 
waved  us  off. 

A  mile    below  Pine  Knoll  we  passed  the  Sioux 


AITKIN  TO  BRAINERD.  145 

Portage,  so  named  from  an  incident  connected  with  it, 
which  was  told  to  us  by  Mr.  Polly,  who  explained  that 
some  ten  or  fifteen  years  before  a  band  of  Chippewas 
were  descending  the  river  closely  pursued  by  a  party 
of  Sioux.  The  Chippewas,  not  being  entirely  familiar 
with  its  course,  continued  down  the  river,  which  here 
makes  an  extended  detour  to  the  eastward,  then^ 
retraces  its  course  westward,  on  a  nearly  parallel  line. 
The  Sioux,  better  informed,  made  a  portage  of  about 
fifty  yards  and  then,  reaching  a  point  down  stream, 
placed  themselves  in  ambush  upon  the  bank,  awaiting 
the  arrival  of  the  Chippewas.  The  latter,  supposing 
their  enemies  still  in  pursuit  in  their  canoes,  were 
completely  surprised  when  the  Sioux  opened  fire  upon 
them  from  a  point  in  advance,  and  the  whole  party 
were  massacred  in  their  boats. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  one  of  our  canoes  was  unfor- 
tunately capsized ;  the  men  who  were  in  it  regained 
the  shore  with  some  difficulty,  but  much  of  the  lug- 
gage was  lost  or  damaged.  We  had  scarcely  repaired, 
as  much  as  lay  in  our  power,  the  effects  of  this  accident, 
when  we  observed  the  heavens  overcast  with  dark 
clouds,  portending  an  approaching  storrn.  We  imme- 
diately landed  near  the  junction  of  Pine  River,  with  a 
view  to  protecting  our  persons  and  stores  from  the  rain. 

About  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  storm  broke 
out  with  more  violence  than  is  usually  noted  in  this 
latitude.  The  precautions  which  we  had  taken  proved 
of  but  little  or  no  avail.  The  stores,  which  had  been 
carefully  packed  in  a  canoe,  and  covered  up  as  well 
as  our  limited  means  permitted,  were  much  damaged 
by  the  water.  The  tents  were  pitched  in  as  favorable 
a  spot  with  respect  to  the  trees  as  the  ground  would 


146  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

admit  of,  but  not  sufficiently  so  to  render  our  position 
either  safe  or  comfortable.  Several  trees  in  the  vicinity 
of  our  encampment  were  struck  by  lightning,  and  the 
wind  blew  with  such  force  that  the  crash  of  fallino1 

o 

timber  was  frequently  heard  during  the  night. 

Notwithstanding  the  comfortless  situation  in  which 
we  found  ourselves,  there  was  an  irresistible  interest  in 
the  scene.  A  storm  is  at  all  times  one  of  the  most 
splendid  phenomena  in  nature;  but  when  experienced 
in  the  gloomy  forests  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the  midst 
of  a  solitude,  with  no  companions  but  a  few  fellow- 
sufferers  standing  in  a  shivering  attitude  around  a 
small  fire,  it  receives  additional  interest;  every  flash 
of  lightning  displays  a  scene  which  the  painter  would 
wish  to  fix  upon  the  canvas.  The  loud  peals  of 
thunder  resound  more  forcibly  when  reverberated  by 
the  rocky  bluffs  which  border  upon  the  river,  and  they 
contrast  sublimely  with  the  low  but  uninterrupted  mut- 
tering of  the  waters. 

Although  our  tents  were  pitched  soon  after  disem- 
barking, we  found  it  quite  impracticable  to  occupy 
them,  as  our  clothing,  blankets,  and  in  fact  the  ground 
itself,  was  thoroughly  soaked.  To  avoid  drowsiness 
we  drank  large  quantities  of  coffee,  and  at  the  request 
of  my  companions  I  entertained  them  with  the  story 
of  my  capture,  imprisonment  and  escape  during  the 
late  war.  Beginning  with  my  capture  in  Northern 
"Virginia  in  the  fall  of  1863,  I  went  back  again  to 
Libby  Prison,  journeyed  in  cattle-cars  to  Danville, 
told  them  of  the  prison-pen  at  Macon  and  its  "  tun- 
nels ; "  then  of  our  sojourn  at  Savannah ;  our  experi- 
ence at  Charleston  "  under  fire,"  and  our  removal  to 
the  capital  of  the  Palmetto  State.  I  escaped  again 


AITKIN  TO  SEAINERD.  147 

from  Columbia;  wandered  through  the  swamps  of 
Carolina  and  Georgia  ;  was  recaptured,  tried  as  a  spy 
at  Springfield  ;  escaped  from  Sylvania  and  reached  the 
Federal  lines  at  Savannah  just  as  day  was  breaking. 

We  passed  at  the  mouth  of  Pine  River  one  of  the 
most  wretched  nights  of  our  long  voyage,  relieved 
somewhat,  perhaps,  by  a  narration  of  events  which  I 
had  hardly  recurred  to  in  many  years. 


PRIVATE  HOUSE,  . 

Brainerd,    Minnesota, 

August  Eighteenth. 

We  drank  more  coffee  at  sunrise,  and  breakfasted  on 
bread  and  bacon.  Put  our  paddles  into  the  water  at 
six  o'clock,  and  with  favorable  weather  pulled  with  a 
will  for  Brainerd,  our  evening  destination.  Halted  at 
one  o'clock  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  three  miles 
above  Brainerd,  and  had  dinner  in  the  shade  of  a  large 
tree.  Re-embarked  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
We  had  scarcely  proceeded  a  mile  when  we  were  met 
by  a  large  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  in  canoes 
and  skiffs,  including  a  detachment  of  the  Brainerd 
Boat  Club.  Among  those  who  were  prominent  in  re- 
ceiving us  were  Warren  Leland,  Arthur  E.  Chase,  of 
the  Tribune,  and  Dr.  Rosser,  brother  of  General 
Rosser,  late  of  the  Confederate  service.  Our  greeting 
by  these  genial  people,  whom  we  had  left  some  six 
weeks  previously  when  starting  for  the  head-  waters  of 
the  Mississippi,  was  most  cordial,  and  will  not  soon 
fade  from  the  memory  of  those  who  were  the  recip- 
ients of  their  courtesies. 

That  evening,  in  accordance  with  an   appointment, 


148  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

I  delivered  the  first  lecture  of  my  trip  in  Ely's  Hall, 
after  an  introduction  by  Judge  Chauncy  B.  Sleeper. 
The  audience  was  large  and  attentive,  and  the  subject 
presented  was,  "  Pioneers  of  the  Mississippi,"  in 
which  I  talked  of  De  Soto,  Marquette,  La  Salle, 
Hennepin,  and  others  who  had  engaged  in  the  ex- 
ploration of  the  Great  River.  Several  of  my  hearers 
showed  their  interest  in  the  subject  by  coming  long 
distances  to  the  lecture,  and  one,  George  Barclay, 
a  pioneer,  told  me  he  had  brought  his  family  thirty- 
seven  miles  with  an  ox-team  to  hear  what  I  had  to  say 
of  the  old  explorers. 

An  event  subjecting  me  to  some  inconvenience  at 
the  time,  but  amusing  in  many  of  its  details,  occurred 
at  this  place.  As  the  flotilla  of  citizens  met  me  upon 
the  river,  the  first  question  with  which  I  was  hailed 
was :  "  Captain,  what  did  you  have  in  your  trunk  ?  " 
I  thought  it  a  singular  question,  to  say  the  least,  and 
did  not  at  first  know  whether  to  set  it  down  to  abso- 
lute impertinence  or  merely  to  the  excessive  but  in- 
nocent curiosity  of  frontiersmen.  However,  the  mat- 
ter was  soon  explained.  My  trunk,  containing  cloth- 
ing and  other  personal  effects,  had  been  despatched 
from  Aitkin  to  Brainerd,  and  on  the  previous  evening 
the  express  office  in  which  it  was  stored  had  been 
broken  into  and  the  trunk  stolen.  The  thieves  had 
taken  it  into  a  pine  thicket  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town 
and  there  rifled  and  distributed  its  contents  among 
themselves.  Fortunately  for  my  lecture  appointment 
I  had  brought  a  coat  and  vest  with  me  in  the  canoe. 
At  the  very  time  I  was  delivering  my  lecture  a  half 
dozen  ruffians,  with  my  clothing  on,  were  walking 
the  streets  of  Brainerd.  What  they  had  no  personal 


AITKIN  TO  BRAINERD.  149 

use  for,  they  had  pawned  in  the  saloons  for  liquor.  The 
beaded  pipe  and  tobacco  pouch  presented  me  by  Flat- 
mouth,  with  a  pair  of  moccasins,  were  left  at  a  saloon 
as  a  consideration  for  half  a  dozen  drinks.  A  mos- 
quito-helmet, made  of  bolting-cloth  by  my  wife 
before  we  started  for  Northern  Minnesota,  and  the  use 
of  which  they  failed  to  recognize,  was  offered  and  re- 
ceived in  pawn  as  a  dress.  After  the  thieves  had 
drunk  quite  freely  at  my  expense,  they  went  out  to  the 
"  Last  Turn,"  as  a  certain  locality  with  a  history  is 
called,  and  lay  down  in  a  row  in  a  state  of  intoxication. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Express  Company,  in  whose 
charge  the  trunk  had  been  placed,  took  active  meas- 
ures to  discover  the  guilty  parties  and  succeeded  in 
finding  and  arresting  them  with  some  of  my  clothing 
still  upon  them.  On  the  following  morning  I  was  sub- 
poenaed to  give  evidence  against  them,  and  went  out 
with  the  district  attorney  through  the  streets  of  the 
town  in  search  of  stray  articles  of  apparel.  During 
this  search  I  met  a  man  having  on  the  pair  of  cavalry 
boots  which  I  had  worn  on  my  horseback  journey 
across  the  continent  in  1876.  We  picked  up  articles 
here  and  there,  some  of  which,  as  has  already  been 
mentioned,  had  been  pawned. 

At  the  examination  which  ensued,  a  man  who  ex- 
pressed willingness  to  testify  against  the  thieves  was  a 
little  snubbed  by  the  prosecuting  attorney,  who  thought 
that  he  probably  knew  very  little  about  the  affair. 
But  when  his  turn  came  to  take  the  witness-stand,  he 
told  a  straightforward  and  interesting  story.  He  said 
he  happened  to  pass  the  thieves  in  the  woods,  while 
they  were  engaged  in  the  disposition  of  their  booty, 
and  thinking  their  proceeding  a  little  strange,  asked 
9 


150  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

them  what  they  were  doing.  They  replied  that  they 
had  just  arrived  from  New  York,  and  being  too  poor 
to  go  to  a  hotel,  had  decided  to  take  advantage  of  the 
grand  dressing-room  which  nature  had  furnished  them, 
and  make  their  toilet  under  the  trees.  They  finally 
made  their  questioner  a  present  of  a  shirt  and  a  pair 
of  drawers.  The  witness  concluded  his  testimony  by 
throwing  open  his  coat  and  exclaiming,  "And  I've  got 
one  of  Captain  Glazier's  shirts  on  now,  your  Honor!" 
The  shirt  spoke  for  itself,  as  my  name  was  marked 
upon  it.  His  evidence  and  mine  were  conclusive,  and 
the  thieves  were  remanded  to  appear  at  the  next  term 
of  court.  They  were  not  persons,  however,  to  be 
easily  disconcerted,  for  while  the  testimony  was  being 
given,  one  of  them  drew  a  bottle  of  whiskey  from  his 
pocket,  and  passing  it  up  to  the  judge,  invited  him  to 
take  a  drink.  It  is  needless  to  add  that  he  was 
promptly  reprimanded. 

Brainerd  has  already  been  referred  to  as  a  thriving 
town.  It  is  situated  on  the  borders  of  an  extensive 
pine  forest,  in  a  bend  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  cross- 
ing of  the  river  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  It 
is  ninety-five  miles  below  Aitkin  by  river,  but  only 
twenty-eight  by  railway.  The  town  is  literally  built 
among  the  pine  trees,  the  streets  having  been  cut  di- 
rectly through  the  original  forest,  and  only  such  trees 
removed  as  were  necessary  for  building  and  business 
purposes.  Brainerd  is  the  second  town  from  the  source 
of  the  river,  and,  after  Saint  Paul  and  Minneapo- 
lis, one  of  the  most  enterprising  and  populous  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi.  Seen  from  the  river,  which  winds 
around  it,  it  is  very  picturesque,  the  tall  pines,  straight 
as  au  arrow,  overtopping  the  houses.  Without  a, 


AITKIN  TO  BRAINERD.  151 

history,  this  town  appears  to  have  leaped  into  exist- 
ence with  a  considerable  population,  mostly  of  New 
England  origin,  and  will  doubtless  in  a  few  years  be- 
come a  city  of  respectable  dimensions.  The  "North- 
ern Pacific "  has  its  shops  located  here,  and  this  cir- 
cumstance, together  with  the  large  and  growing  lum- 
ber interest,  and  the  spirit  and  enterprise  of  the  people 
who  have  cast  their  lot  in  this  section,  have  given 
Brainerd  its  present  prominence  and  prospective  im- 
portance as  a  centre  of  industry.  It  is  the  capital  of 
Crow  Wing  County  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-six 
miles  northwest  of  Saint  Paul  by  railway,  and  supports 
a  weekly  paper  and  a  bank.  The  population  at  the 
time  of  my  visit  was  about  three  thousand  five  hun- 
dred. 


CHAPTER  XIV, 


BRAINERD   TO   MONTICELLO. 

(tentn-mutl)  ?Dan. 

PRIVATE  HOUSE, 

Crow  Wing,  Minnesota, 

August  19,  1881. 

'ETWEEN  two  and  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  a  considerable  number  of  the 
citizens  of  Brainerd  accompanied  us  to 
the   bank   of  the   river   to   witness   the 
launch  of  our  canoes  and  to  send  after  us 
their  good  wishes.     Warren  Leland  gave  my 
canoe  its  send-off,  and  we  were  soon  out  of  hear- 
ing of  the  cheers  of  the  friendly  multitude  upon 
the  shore. 

We  halted  at  nightfall  at  Crow  Wing,  where  we 
found  shelter  and  food  at  the  home  of  Charles  Bailey, 
who,  though  he  kept  no  regular  hotel,  welcomed 
strangers  under  his  roof.  He  entertained  us  through- 
out the  evening  with  stories  of  his  hunting  exploits, 
some  of  which  almost  rivalled  the  adventures  ot  Mun- 
chausen,  and  which  he  told  so  gracefully  and  with 
such  an  air  of  innocence  and  plausibility  as  to  make 
them  most  convincing.  He  had  killed,  if  I  remember 
correctly,  on  some  occasions,  not  less"  than  forty  deer  in 
a  single  day,  while  the  narration  of  his  encounters 
152 


BRAINEED  TO  MONTICELLO.  153 

with  bears  and  wolves  was  quite  enough  to  make  the 
hair  of  the  listener  stand  on  end.  What  our  host  did 
not  know  of  hunting  and,  I  might  add,  of  story-tell- 
ing, was  hardly  worth  knowing. 

Crow  Wing,  a  little  hamlet  of  half  a  dozen  farm- 
houses, is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, just  below  its  junction  with  Crow  Wing  River. 
Its  history  is  brief.  It  was  at  one  time  a  mission- 
station,  and  then  aspired  to  become  the  great  town  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi;  but  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad  dealt  its  death-blow  by  locating  on  a  higher 
parallel  of  latitude  and  making  its  crossing  of  the  river 
at  Brainerd. 


VASSALY  HOUSE, 

Little    Falls,    Minnesota, 
August  Twentieth. 

At  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  were  again 
afloat.  The  day  was  a  beautiful  one,  and  the  current 
being  perceptibly  stronger,  we  made  rapid  progress 
towards  Little  Falls,  our  evening  destination.  We 
were,  however,  unexpectedly  delayed  by  an  occurrence 
which,  while  it  flattered  our  importance,  gave  expres- 
sion to  a  generous  impulse  on  the  part  of  the  citizens 
we  were  about  to  visit.  When  within  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  of  Little  Falls,  we  were  suddenly  startled 
by  the  appearance  of  two  strangers  who  hailed  us  and 
introduced  themselves  as  Judge  A.  F.  Story,  and  A. 
J.  Pierson,  editor  of  the  Transcript.  They  had  hur- 
ried across  a  bend  of  the  river  to  intercept  us  before 
reaching  the  town,  and  with  many  apologies  and  ex- 
pressions of  welcome  and  good  feeling,  begged  us  to 


154  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

delay  our  approach  to  the  town  for  an  hour.  The  ex- 
planation they  gave  for  this  singular  request  was 
extremely  complimentary  to  our  little  party  of  ex- 
plorers/ Preparations,  they  said,  were  being  made  for 
our  reception,  which,  as  they  were  not  quite  completed, 
would  be  spoiled  by  our  premature  advent  upon  the 
scene.  They  added  that  they  had  seen  us  coming 
down  the  river,  and  had  rushed  in  hot  haste  to  en- 
deavor to  persuade  us  to  defer  for  an  hour  our  arrival 
at  the  town.  We,  of  course,  readily  complied  with  so 
kind  and  flattering  a  request,  and  at  the  expiration  of 
about  an  hour  resumed  our  paddles  and  started  ex- 
pectantly for  the  landing.  Before  reaching  this  spot, 
however,  we  were  met  by  a  small  fleet  of  row-boats 
filled  with  citizens  anxious  to  be  the  first  to  extend  a 
welcome  to  us;  while  on  the  river  banks  it  appeared 
that  half  the  population  of  Little  Falls  had  assembled 
to  greet  our  arrival.  A  temporary  landing  stage  had 
been  improvised  expressly  for  our  accommodation,  a 
brass  band  saluted  us  with  a  lively  air,  while  cheers 
and  words  of  welcome  met  us  on  every  side.  Being 
called  upon  for  a  speech,  I  offered  a  few  remarks, 
thanking  the  good  citizens  for  the  interest  they  mani- 
fested in  my  undertaking,  and  explaining  briefly  its 
character  and  aims.  At  the  conclusion  of  my  remarks 
we  were  escorted  to  the  Vassaly  House  by  Judge 
Story  and  a  number  of  citizens,  including  the  band, 
which  honored  us  with  sundry  airs  deemed  by  them 
appropriate  to  the  occasion,  and  thus  added  not  a  little 
to  our  entertainment.  In  the  evening  I  delivered  my 
lecture  to  an  attentive  audience  in  Vassaly  Hall,  ac- 
cording to  previous  appointment. 


BBAINEBD   TO  MONTICELLO.  J55 

Sfyirtipfirst  JDan. 

FARM  HOUSE, 

Thirty  Miles  Below  Little  Folia, 
August  Twenty-first. 

The  day  following  our  arrival  at  Little  Falls  being 
Sunday,  we  decided  not  to  re-embark  until  afternoon. 
During  the  morning  we  received  calls  from  a  number 
of  the  leading  citizens,  among  whom  were  Moses  La- 
fond,  one  of  the  oldest  residents,  if  not  the  very  oldest; 
and  Hon.  Nathan  Richardson,  an  ex-member  of  the 
State  Legislature.  The  latter  showed  us  many  relics 
gathered  in  the  State  strongly  corroborating  the 
theory  of  a  pre-historic  race,  and  gave  us  much  valua- 
ble information  concerning  the  early  history  of  this 
section  of  Minnesota. 

The  river  at  this  point  is  divided  by  an  island,  on 
the  eastern  side  of  which  the  current  is  very  swift, 
while  on  the  western  side  the  stream  rushes  along  in 
a  torrent,  boiling  and  whirling  over  the  rocks  and 
bowlders  in  a  descent  of  some  twenty  feet  in  perhaps 
eighty  rods.  This  is  the  most  considerable  fall  of  the 
Mississippi  between  Pokegama  and  Saint  Anthony.  A 
rumor  had  been  circulated  in  the  town  that  we  in- 
tended shooting  the  falls  and  rapids  of  the  Mississippi 
from  its  source  to  its  mouth  !  Hence,  when  prepared 
to  embark  and  continue  our  cruise,  a  number  of  the 
worthy  citizens  assembled  to  see  us  shoot  Little  Falls — 
a  feat,  it  was  said,  which  had  never  before  been  at- 
tempted. I  may  here  say  that  the  rumor  was  entirely 
without  foundation.  I  was  in  no  sense  sportively  in- 
clined, nor  even  possessed  the  qualification  of  an  adept 
at  handling  a  canoe  under  difficulties,  and  my  long 


156  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

journey  had  been  projected  and  undertaken,  not  with 
a  view  of  displaying  any  extraordinary  feats  of  nau- 
tical skill  or  physical  endurance,  but  with  the  milder 
object  of  adding,  if  possible,  to  the  geographical  knowl- 
edge of  this  section  of  our  country,  and  at  the  same 
time  afford  myself  an  opportunity  of  studying  the 
character  of  our  great  North  American  river  and  the 
cities  and  people  that  lined  its  banks,  extending  over 
a  distance  of  some  twenty  degrees  of  latitude.  This  op- 
portunity I  should  have  failed  in  finding  by  the  or- 
dinary and  swifter  mode  of  traveling  by  railway  or 
steamboat.  I  therefore  declined  to  make  a  spectacle  of 
myself  by  shooting  the  falls,  preferring  to  make  a 
portage  around  them.  My  brother  George,  however, 
younger  and  more  venturesome  in  such  matters  than 
myself,  determined  to  give  the  people  the  show  they 
were  expecting,  and,  entering  his  Rushton  canoe,  soon 
Avent  bounding  over  the  steep  descent.  By  a  skilful 
use  of  his  paddle  he  managed  to  steer  clear  of  the 
bowlders  in  his  course,  and  further,  to  show  his  daring, 
stood  upright  for  a  minute  or  two.  The  descent  was 
of  course  very  rapid,  and  he  soon  reached  the  more 
placid  current  at  the  foot  of  the  falls.  The  Alice 
had  carried  him  securely  over,  springing  buoyantly 
over  the  surging  waters,  swerving  readily  at  command 
of  the  paddle,  and  accomplishing,  without  injury  to 
herself  or  her  passenger,  what  few  canoes  of  so  light 
a  build  would  be  capable  of  doing,  and  fewer  amateur 
canoeists  would,  I  think,  have  had  the  temerity  to 
undertake. 

Below  the  falls  we  found  the  strongest  current  we 
had  yet  encountered,  and  during  the  afternoon  ran  no 
less  than  thirteen  rapids,  including  Pike  Rapids. 


BE Al NERD  TO  MONTICELLO.  157 

During  our  lightning  progress  down  the  hitter,  we 
scarcely  knew,  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  whether  we 
should  find  ourselves  at  the  end  ou  the  surface,  or  at 
the  bottom  of  the  river.  Our  canoes  were  filled  with 
water,  and  we  received  a  most  thorough  drenching. 
This  section  of  the  Mississippi  presents  a  succession  of 
rapids  as  far  down  as  Saint  Cloud. 

As  night  approached  we  halted  near  the  residence 
of  Mrs.  William  McNeil,  a  widow.  This  lady  was 
successfully  conducting  a  tolerably  large  farm,  and 
with  true  western  hospitality  tendered  us  a  night's 
accommodation  in  her  dwelling.  A  volume  treating 
of  western  scenes  and  people  would  be  incomplete  if 
it  made  no  reference  to  the  western  women.  The 
isolated  life  which  many  of  them  lead,  and  the  insuf- 
ficiency of  domestic  help,  together  with  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  the  pioneer,  have  developed  a  race  of  sturdy, 
self-reliant  women,  lacking,  let  me  be  understood,  in 
no  womanly  graces;  but  supplementing  these  with 
strong  traits  of  character  which  make  them  fit  com- 
panions of  the  brave,  stalwart  and  enterprising  men 
whose  wives,  daughters  and  sisters  they  are.  It  is  no 
uncommon  thing  in  the  northwest,  should  a  husband 
die,  fop  the  widow  to  assume  the  business  and  conduct 
it- quite  as  successfully  as  her  late  husband  had  done 
during  his  life.  Many  of  the  farms  managed  by 
women  in  Minnesota,  Wisconsin  and  Iowa  are  as 
prosperous  in  appearance,  as  well  and  thriftily  man- 
aged, and  equally  as  remunerative,  as  those  in  the 
hands  of  the  men.  Their  feminine  capabilities  and 
talents  are  moreover  practically  demonstrated  in  many 
ways  among  the  intelligent  communities  of  the  frontier. 


153  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Daw. 


WEST  HOUSE, 

Saint  Cloud,  Minnesota, 

August  Twenty-second. 

Embarking  at  the  usual  hour  in  the  morning,  we 
were  met  by  a  strong  head-wind,  against  which  it 
seemed  almost  impossible  to  advance.  The  river  was 
widening  and  the  country  adjacent  had  been  longer 
settled,  leaving  fewer  trees  upon  its  banks  for  protec- 
tion. About  noon  we  reached  Sauk  Rapids,  having  a 
fall  of  about  twenty  feet  in  the  course  of  sixty  rods, 
which  my  brother  successfully  passed  over,  but  the  re- 
maining members  of  the  party,  less  adventurous,  again 
preferred  carrying  their  canoes  around  the  rapids  to 
the  risk  of  being  swamped  in  their  descent. 

My  brother  reached  Saint  Cloud  in  advance  of  us, 
and  returned  accompanied  by  a  son  of  Captain  West, 
a  prominent  resident,  who  kindly  escorted  us  to  the 
landing  where  an  assemblage  of  citizens  awaited  us. 
In  the  evening  I  delivered  my  lecture  at  the  Opera 
House,  being  introduced  to  the  audience  by  Judge  L. 
A.  Evans.  Among  those  who  called  upon  me  were 
several  clergymen,  including  a  Catholic  priest,  and  all 
evinced  an  intelligent  interest  in  the  purpose  of  my 
journey. 

Saint  Cloud  is  very  pleasantly  located  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  just  below  Sauk  Rapids.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Stearns  County,  seventy-five  miles 
north  of  Saint  Paul  by  railway,  and  six  hundred  and 
seventy  from  the  river's  source.  For  some  years  it 
was  considered  the  leading  commercial  and  manufac- 
turing town  of  Northern  Minnesota,  and  is  one  of  the 


BEAINERD   TO  MONTICELLO.  159 

oldest  settlements  in  the  State.  Here  we  encountered 
the  second  bridge  across  the  Mississippi,  the  first  being 
at  Brainerd.  Saint  Cloud  has  always  been  a  busy 
town,  having  a  population  of  about  three  thousand  five 
hundred,  and  is  characterized  by  a  spirit  of  enterprise. 
It  has  a  public  library,  a  state  normal  school,  and  two 
banks;  two  newspapers,  one  of  which  was  edited  by 
Jane  Grey  Swisshelm,  a  lady  of  wide  reputation  as  a 
writer;  several  saw,  planing  and  flour  mills,  foundries 
and  other  industrial  establishments;  all  of  which  ap- 
peared to  be  in  a  highly  flourishing  condition.  A  con- 
siderable acreage  of  wheat  and  other  cereals  is  raised 
in  this  vicinity,  and  the  future  of  this  progressive  little 
city  is  sure  to  be  prosperous. 


PRIVATE  HOUSE, 

Monticello,   Minnesota, 

August  Twenty-third. 

A  strong  southerly  wind  faced  us  in  the  morning 
when  we  pushed  off  from  the  crowded  landing-place, 
and  our  day's  work  was  the  most  trying  we  had  en- 
countered since  leaving  Brainerd.  We  had  forty-three 
miles  to  paddle  with  a  slack  current,  but  finally 
reached  Monticello  between  four  and  five  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  considerably  fjrtigued  by  the  effort  ex- 
pended in  pulling  against  the  high  wind.  A  cordial 
welcome  awaited  us,  however,  from  the  people  lining 
the  beach,  while  a  band,  brought  out  for  the  occasion, 
struck  up  a  lively  air,  and  afterward  volunteered  to 
play  at  my  lecture.  On  this  occasion  I  was  intro- 
duced to  my  audience  by  Mr.  Henry  Kreis,  a  substitute 
for  the  gentleman  who  had  been  appointed  to  perform 


160  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

that  ceremony,  but  was  prevented  by  unforeseen  cir- 
cumstances from  appearing.  Only  the  day  before,  the 
gentleman  in  question  had  had  an  altercation  with  a 
fellow-citizen  which  resulted  in  his  kicking  his  op- 
ponent down-stairs,  and  this  serious  breach  of  good 
manners  and  of  law  and  order  had  ended  by  his  being 
temporarily  lodged  in  jail.  His  son  called  on  me 
bearing  the  apologies  of  his  father  and  a  message  to 
the  effect  that  an  important  legal  engagement  alone 
prevented  him  from  fulfilling  his  appointment  with 
me.  It  is  well  to  add  that  this  gentleman  was  one  of 
the  most  highly  respected  citizens  of  the  town,  and 
that  public  opinion  appeared  to  be  strongly  in  his 
favor. 

Monticello  is  a  pleasant  little  town  of  from  four  to 
five  hundred  inhabitants.  Hon.  Samuel  E.  Adams, 
editor  of  the  Monticello  Times,  and  one  of  the  pioneers 
of  this  part  of  Minnesota,  extended  many  courtesies 
to  our  little  party;  and  here  I  met  two  of  my  cousins, 
sons  of  Henry  Glazier,  who  had  been  a  resident  of  the 
State  for  many  years,  and  one  of  the  early  settlers  of 
Wright  County. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

MONTICELLO    TO    MINNEAPOLIS. 


SHERBURNE  HOUSE, 

Elk  River,   Minnesota, 

August  24,  1881. 

spent  the  morning  with  uncle  Henry's 
family  at  their  home  in  Monticello; 
walked  down  to  the  landing  after  din- 
ner,  accompanied  by  cousins  Ward  and 
George  Glazier,  Mr.  Adams  and  others 
to  whom  we  had  been  introduced  during 
our  sojourn.  A  waving  of  handkerchiefs,  the 
discharge  of  firearms  and  the  prolonged  cheering 
which  followed  the  launch  of  our  canoes,  bespoke  the 
kindly  interest  felt  in  us,  and  for  our  undertaking. 
Large  numbers  of  country  people  were  assembled  at 
many  points  along  the  river  to  see  us  pass.  We  still 
found  river-drivers,  wongans,  logs,  booms,  jams  and,  in 
fact,  we  were  told  that  we  should  meet  these  peculiarities 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi  as  far  as  La  Crosse.  The 
village  of  Elk  River  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  opposite  the  river  of  this  name  which 
comes  in  from  the  west.  Its  population  is  quite  small 
and  probably  does  not  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty 
persons. 

161 


DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 


MISSISSIPPI  HOUSE, 

Friedley,    Minnesota, 

August  Twenty-fifth. 

We  took  to  water  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock  at 
Elk  River.  Firm  southerly  winds  met  us  at  the  very 
outset  and  it  was  only  by  dint  of  a  most  persistent  use 
of  our  paddles  that  we  succeeded  in  forcing  our  canoes 
down  stream.  George  having  left  us  at  Elk  River  in 
order  to  arrange  for  my  lecture  at  Minneapolis,  had 
encumbered  us  with  an  extra  canoe  which  tended 
largely  to  impede  our  progress,  as  we  were  compelled 
to  tow  it  at  our  stern.  Anoka  was  reached  soon  after 
one  o'clock.  It  was  our  intention  to  pass  this  place, 
as  it  stands  some  distance  back  on  a  tributary  of  the 
Mississippi,  but  being  blown  ashore  we  concluded 
to  walk  up  to  the  town,  where  we  had  dinner  at  a 
restaurant.  After  a  stroll  through  some  of  the  leading 
streets  of  this  enterprising  little  city,  we  returned  to 
our  canoes  and  continued  our  course  toward  Friedley, 
at  which  place  we  disembarked  a  few  minutes  before 
sunset. 

Friedley,  or  Fridley,  as  it  is  sometimes  spelled,  is  a 
small  hamlet  in  Anoka  County,  of  less  than  three 
hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  some  seven  miles  above 
Minneapolis.  It  enjoyed  a  bubble  reputation  some 
years  ago,  being  looked  upon  by  its  founders  as  the 
future  great  city  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  but  like 
many  another  its  site  was  unfavorable,  and  it  has 
been  so  overshadowed  by  its  more  fortunate  rivals 
that  it  is  now  seldom  mentioned,  except  in  connection 
with  its  past  aspirations. 


MONTICELLO  TO  MINNEAPOLIS.  \§§ 

<&l)trtt)~sUl!)  JDcro. 

Nl  COLLET    HOUSE, 

Minneapolis,   Minnesota, 
August    Twenty-sixth. 

"We  spent  the  morning  iu  our  quiet  retreat  at 
Friedley.  My  notes,  covering  our  voyage  from 
Aitkin,  were  perfected  at  this  place  and  business  and 
private  correspondence  attended  to. 

Re-embarked  soon  after  dinner,  and  aided  by  a 
strong  current  dropped  down  to  within  three  miles  of 
the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  where  we  were  compelled 
to  take  our  canoes  out  of  the  water  owing  to  the  prev- 
alence of  jams  and  log-booms.  The  canoes  were  car- 
ried through  Minneapolis  and  around  the  cataract  on  a 
farm  wagon.  After  they  had  been  carefully  placed  in 
a  storehouse  and  we  had  registered  at  the  "Nicollet," 
I  walked  out  to  the  Falls. 

Long  before  coming  in  sight  of  this  grand  spectacle, 
the  ear  is  greeted  by  the  deep,  solemn  roar  that  truly 
resembles  the  "  sound  of  many  waters."  The  pulse 
of  the  traveler  naturally  quickens  as  he  feels  him- 
self approaching  the  scene  where  Father  Hennepin, 
of  old,  was  so  moved  with  admiration  as  to  christen 
the  red  man's  falls  after  his  patron  saint.  It  ap- 
pears indeed  as  though  some  mighty  strife  were 
going  on  amid  the  elements,  and  as  one  advances,  a 
strange,  indescribable  feeling  steals  over  the  senses,  a 
feeling  that  awakens  q,  spirit  of  admiration  for  the 
handiwork  of  the  Almighty.  The  Falls  at  length 
burst  upon  the  enraptured  view — the  celebrated  Falls 
of  Saint  Anthony.  One  is  not  here  so  completely  over- 
whelmed as  when  viewing  the  incomparable  Niagara, 


16(5  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER, 

with  its  great  height  of  waterfall,  its  deafening  roar, 
and  the  lofty  character  of  its  scenery.  Saint  Anthony 
is  more  within  the  grasp  of  human  comprehension, 
nnd  is  therefore  looked  upon  with  greater  pleasure. 
Niagara  appears  to  wear  a  kind  of  threatening  frown, 
while  the  former  greets  you  with  a  winning  and  com- 
placent smile.  Yet,  on  account  of  the  vast  body  of 
water  continually  rushing  over  the  rocky  mass  in  the 
bed  of  the  river,  the  scene  is  one  of  sublimity  as  well 
as  one  of  loveliness  and  beauty.  As  I  gazed  on 
these  falls  and  listened  to  the  warring  elements  I  was 
forcibly  impressed  with  the  truth  of  the  beautiful  lines 

of  the  poet  Brainard  : 

"And  what  are  we, 

That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime? 
Oh,  what  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung 
From  war's  vain  trumpet,  by  thy  thundering  side? 
Yes,  what  is  all  the  riot  man  can  make 
In  his  short  life,  to  thine  unceasing  roar? 
And  yet,  bold  babbler,  what  art  thou  to  Him 
Who  drowned  the  world,  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountain  ?    A  light  wavs, 
That  breaks  and  whispers  at  its  Maker's  might ! " 

Concerning  the  height  of  the  fall  and  the  breadth  of 
the  river  at  this  point,  much  incorrect  information  has 
been  published.  Hennepin,  who  was  the  first  white 
man  to  visit  it,  states  it  to  be  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high. 
It  was  this  explorer  who  gave  it  the  name  which 
it  now  bears,  in  honor  of  Saint  Anthony  of  Padua, 
whom  he  had  taken  for  the  protection  of  his  discovery. 
Carver  reduces  its  height  to  about  thirty  feet;  his 
strictures  upon  Hennepin,  however,  whom  he  charges 
with  exaggeration,  might,  with  propriety,  be  retorted 
upon  him,  and  we  feel  strongly  inclined  to  say  of  him, 
as  he  said  of  his  predecessor,  "  the  good  Father,  I  fear, 


MONTICELLO  TO  MINNEAPOLIS.  107 

too  often  had  no  other  foundation  for  his  accounts  than 
report,  or  at  most  a  slight  inspection."  Lieutenant 
Pike,  who  is  more  accurate  than  any  traveler  whom  we 
have  followed,  states  the  perpendicular  fall  to  be  six- 
teen and  a  half  feet.  It  was  again  measured  in  1817 
with  a  plumb-line,  from  the  table  rock  from  which  the 
water  was  falling,  and  found  to  be  the  same.  The 
measurement  at  this  time  was  made  with  a  rough 
water-level,  which  made  it  about  fifteen  feet.  The 
difference  of  a  foot  is  trifling  and  might  depend  upon 
the  place  where  the  measurement  was  made ;  but  we 
cannot  account  for  the  statement  made  by  Schoolcraft 
that  the  river  has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  forty  feet* 
and  this  as  late  as  fourteen  years  after  Pike's  measure- 
ment. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  near  the  brink  of  the  fall 
is  five  hundred  and  ninety-four  yards.  Below  the  fall 
it  contracts  to  about  two  hundred  yards.  There  is  a 
considerable  rapid  both  above  and  below,  and  a  portage 
of  two  hundred  and  sixty  poles  in  length  was  usually 
made  here  in  pioneer  days.  The  entire  fall  or  differ- 
ence of  level  between  the  place  of  disembarking  and 
reloading,  was  stated  by  Pike  to  be  fifty-eight  feet, 
which  is,  undoubtedly,  very  near  the  truth.  The 
whole  fall  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  which  extend  sev- 
eral miles  down  the  river,  may  be  estimated  at  about 
one  hundred  feet. 

This  romantic  spot  in  the  Mississippi  is  not  without 
a  legend  to  hallow  its  scenery  and  enhance  the  interest 
which  of  itself  it  is  calculated  to  awaken.  The  follow- 
'ing  tragic  story  was  current  some  years  ago  among  the 
Indians  and  white  settlers  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Falls.  Ampato  Sapa,  a  youthful  female,  whose  name 
10 


168  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

signifies  the  dark  day,  was  united  in  marriage  to  a 
young  Indian  of  the  Dakota  tribe.  For  several  years 
they  lived  together  happily  and  two  children  were  born 
to  them.  Both  parents  doted  on  their  children  with  a 
depth  of  feeling  scarcely  equaled  by  more  civilized 
whites.  The  man  became  great  as  a  hunter,  and  many 
of  the  surrounding  families  sought  his  guardianship 
and  friendship,  and  shared  the  products  of  his  chase. 
Some  of  them,  anxious  to  strengthen  their  interest  with 
the  successful  hunter,  urged  him  to  form  a  connection 
with  their  family,  telling  him  that  a  second  \vifewas 
indispensable  to  a  man  of  his  talent  and  importance, 
who  would  probably  soon  be  acknowledged  as  a  chief. 
The  daughter  of  an  influential  man  was  presented  to 
him,  and,  animated  with  the  ambition  of  attaining  to 
high  honor  in  his  nation  by  a  union  with  the  daughter 
of  a  man  of  great  influence,  he  took  a  second  wife, 
without  mentioning  the  subject  to  the  young  mother 
of  his  children.  Desirous  of  conciliating  his  first  wife, 
for  whom  he  still  retained  much  regard,  he  introduced 
the  subject  to  her  in  these  words :  "  You  know, 
Ampato,  that  I  can  love  no  woman  so  fondly  as  I  do 
you.  With  deep  regret  I  have  seen  you  of  late  sub- 
jected to  toils  which  must  be  oppressive,  and  from 
which  I  would  gladly  relieve  you;  yet  I  know 
of  no  other  way  of  doing  so  than  by  associating  with 
you  in  the  duties  of  our  household  one  who  shall 
relieve  you  from  the  trouble  of  entertaining  the  numer- 
ous guests  whom  my  growing  importance  in  the  nation 
collects  around  me.  I  have,  therefore,  resolved  upon 
taking  another  wife,  but  she  shall  always  be  subject  to 
your  control."  With  the  deepest  concern  his  wife 
listened  to  this  unexpected  announcement.  She  remon- 


MONTI  CELLO  TO  MINNEAPOLIS.  171 

strated  with  him  in  the  kindest  terms,  and  tearfully 
entreated  by  every  consideration  her  devoted  love  could 
suggest,  that  he  would  not  let  another  take  her  place 

oo        '  * 

in  his  affections.  The  Indian,  with  much  duplicity, 
still  concealed  from  her  the  secret  of  his  marriage  with 
another,  while  she  put  forth  her  strongest  appeals  in 
the  effort  to  convince  him  that  she  was  equal  to  the 
tasks  imposed  upon  her.  She  pleaded  all  the  endear- 
ments of  their  past  life,  dwelling  on  his  former  fond- 
ness for  her,  his  regard  for  her  happiness  and  that  of 
their  children,  and  cautioned  him  to  beware  of  the 
consequences  of  uniting  himself  to  a  woman  of  whom 
he  knew  very  little.  Finding  her  still  opposed  to  his 
wishes  he  at  length  informed  her  that  further  opposi- 
tion on  her  part  was  useless  as  he  had  already  selected 
another  partner;  and  that  if  she  could  not  receive  his 
new  wife  as  a  friend,  she  must  receive  her  as  an  encum- 
brance, for  he  had  resolved  she  should  reside  with  him. 
Deeply  distressed  at  this  information,  she  stole 
away  from  the  cabin  with  her  infant  and  fled  to  her 
father.  She  remained  with  him  for  a  time,  until  some 
Indians,  with  whom  he  lived,  went  up  the  Mississippi 
on  a  winter  hunt.  When  they  returned  in  early  spring 
with  their  canoes  loaded  with  skins,  they  encamped 
near  the  Falls.  After  they  had  left  in  the  morning, 
Ampato  lingered  near  the  spot,  and  soon  launching  a 
light  canoe,  entered  it  with  her  babes.  She  paddled 
down  the  stream  chanting  her  death-song.  Her  friends 
saw  her  only  too  late,  and  their  attempts  to  arrest  her 
progress  were  of  no  avail.  She  was  heard  to  sing  in 
a  doleful  voice  of  the  past  happiness  she  had  enjoyed 
while  she  was  the  sole  object  of  her  husband's  affections. 
Finally  her  voice  was  drowned  in  the  roar  of  the  cataract; 


172  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  rapids  carried  down  her  little  bark ;  it  came  to  the 
edge  of  the  Falls;  was  seen  for  a  moment  covered  with 
spray — but  never  was  a  trace  of  the  canoe  or  its  hapless 
freight  seen  more.  The  Indians  say  that  often  a  voice 
has  been  heard  to  sing  a  piteous  song  near  the  edge  of 
the  falling  water,  and  that  the  burden  of  the  song  is 
always  the  inconstancy  of  Ampato's  husband.  Some 
assert  that  her  spirit  wanders  near  the  spot  with  her 
children  clinging  to  her  bosom.  Such  tales  and  tradi- 
tions the  Indians  treasure  and  relate  to  the  traveler. 

Minneapolis  proper  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
the  river,  while  Saint  Anthony,  which  by  mutual  agree- 
ment has  become  united  to  the  first-named  city,  is  on 
the  east  side — the  two  forming  one  city  under  the 
name  of  Minneapolis.  It  is  ten  miles  from  Saint 
Paul.  The  city  proper  is  built  on  broad  esplanades 
overlooking  the  river  and  its  falls,  rapids  and  pict- 
uresque bluffs.  It  is  the  first  place  of  magnitude 
reached  in  descending  the  river.  The  streets  are  laid 
out  at  right  angles,  eighty  feet  in  width,  bordered  by 
sidewalks  twenty  feet  wide,  with  double  rows  of  trees 
on  each  side.  The  founders  of  western  cities  have 
gained  wisdom  from  the  mistakes  of  those  of  the  eastern 
coast.  Notwithstanding  the  broad  expanse  of  country, 
which  to  the  early  colonists  seemed  limitless,  the  cities 
and  towns  built  on  and  near  the  Atlantic  seaboard 
were  modeled  upon  European  plans,  even  to  the  nar- 
row streets  and  compact  rows  of  buildings.  Not  so  in 
the  West.  The  original  plans  of  our  western  towns 
are  so  wisely  designed  that  no  future  increase  of 
population,  with  its  attendant  demands  for  dwelling 
and  business  houses,  can  ever  transform  them  into  an 
aggregation  of  dense,  stifling  streets  and  lanes,  such  as 


MONTICELLO   TO  MINNEAPOLIS,  175 

are  too  often  found  in  our  first-class  eastern  cities. 
Health  and  beauty  are  two  objects  which  have  been 
steadily  kept  in  view  in  their  foundation.  Though 
their  rude  beginnings  have  not  always  been  attractive, 
the  possibilities  of  beauty  are  always  there  and  time  is 
sure  to  develop  them. 

Saint  Anthony  saw  its  beginning  in  1849,  though  a 
single  log-cabin  had  stood  upon  its  site  for  twelve 
years  before  this  date.  The  first  dwelling  in  Minne- 
apolis proper  was  erected  in  the  winter  of  1849-50, 
by  Colonel  J.  H.  Stevens.  Speaking  of  his  early 
residence  and  neighbors,  the  colonel  says :  "  We  have 
often  retired  at  night  and  opened  our  eyes  in  the  morn- 
ing upon  the  wigwams  of  either  the  Sioux,  Chippe- 
was,  or  Winnebagos,  which  had  gone  up  while  we 
slept." 

The  name  "Minneapolis"  is  compounded  of  Indian 
and  Greek ;  Minne  being  the  Sioux  for  water,  and 
polls  the  Greek  for  city,  thus  meaning  the  water  city, 
or  the  city  of  the  waters.  It  is  located  on  what  was 
formerly  known  as  the  Military  Reserve  of  Fort  Snell- 
iug,  a  reservation  nine  miles  square  assigned  to  and 
surrounding  the  Fort  for  purposes  of  forage.  In  1855, 
Congress  granted  the  right  of  preemption  to  the  set- 
tlers, and  since  that  period  a  rapid  growth  of  the  city 
has  taken  place.  In  1856,  the  population  was  only 
two  thousand,  while  that  of  Saint  Anthony  was  about 
three  thousand  five  hundred. 

A  suspension  bridge  connecting  the  two  cities  was 
built  in  1855.  It  cost  over  fifty  thousand  dollars, 
and  was  the  first  suspension  bridge  ever  built  in  a 
Territory,  and  the  first  to  span  the  Mississippi.  A 
ferry-boat  at  this  point  had  been  established  in  1851. 


176  DOWN  THE  GEEAT  RIVER. 

That  summer  its  proprietor  realized  three  hundred 
dollars.  In  1855,  the  receipts  had  increased  to  twelve 
thousand.  In  1880,  the  population  of  the  united 
towns  numbered  nearly  fifty  thousand,  with  the  certain 
prospect  of  doubling,  trebling,  and  even  quadrupling 
that  number  in  a  very  few  years. 

The  University  of  Minnesota  is  located  here,  and 
there  are  several  other  important  educational  institu- 
tions. The  public  schools  are  in  every  respect  ex- 
cellent; the  Athenaeum  Library  contains  about  ten 
thousand  volumes,  while  the  University  possesses 
one  of  several  thousand.  There  are  more  than  sixty 
churches  of  all  denominations,  and  some  of  the  sacred 
edifices  are  very  handsome. 

The  river  is  here  about  six  hundred  yards  in  width, 
and  above  Saint  Anthony  Falls  rushes  through  low 
banks,  rising  in  uneven  bluffs  from  five  to  twenty-five 
feet,  in  foaming,  tumultuous  rapids,  until  it  reaches  the 
precipice,  whence  it  springs  in  a  single  leap  down  a 
distance  of  about  sixteen  feet.  Thence  it  proceeds  in 
a  series  of  rapids  over  piles  of  rocks  in  its  bed  for 
some  distance,  the  great  descent  being  made  of 
eighty-two  feet  in  two  miles.  Below  the  Falls  the 
cliffs  are  bold  and  picturesque,  the  character  of  the 
scenery  varying. 

The  Falls  are  divided  by  Cataract  Island,  from 
which  a  dam  has  been  constructed  to  the  eastern  shore 
to  furnish  water-power  for  manufacturing  purposes, 
and  nearly  the  whole  volume  of  water  now  rushes 
through  the  western  channel.  The  Falls  may  be  seen 
with  equal  advantage  from  either  shore,  but  the  best 
view  is  obtained  from  the  centre  of  the  Suspension 
Bridge  which  crosses  the  river  above  them,  and  from 


MONTICELLO   TO  MINNEAPOLIS.  177 

which  the  rapids  may  be  seen  boiling  and  rushing 
immediately  beneath. 

These  falls  furnish  abundant  power  for  manufact- 
uring purposes,  and  as  early  as  1856  large  mills  were 
already  in  operation  at  Saint  Anthony,  in  which  mil- 
lions of  feet  of  lumber  were  annually  sawn.  The  logs 
which  fill  the  Mississippi  above  the  Falls,  sometimes 
even  to  the  point  of  obstructing  navigation,  all  have 
their  destination  at  Minneapolis.  Here  they  are  con- 
verted into  lumber  and  laths  and  sent  to  distant 
sections  of  the  country,  perhaps  in  the  form  of  huge 
rafts  again  set  afloat  upon  the  river.  The  lumber 
business  of  this  city  is  immense,  probably  exceeding 
that  of  any  other  city  in  the  country.  It  is  equaled 
only  by  the  flour  mills  of  this  rapidly  growing  western 
giant.  Minneapolis  stands  at  the  head  of  the  flour 
manufacturing  of  the  world.  She  has  no  equal  in  this 
branch  of  manufacture  either  on  this  continent  or  in 
Europe.  The  wheat  raised  in  such  immense  quantities  in 
the  Northwest  is  here  ground  into  flour  and  shipped  to 
every  part  of  the  United  States;  while  vast  quantities 
are  exported  to  Europe.  The  banks  of  the  river  are 
lined  with  immense  flour  mills,  which  furnish  employ- 
ment to  thousands  of  hands. 

Minneapolis  is  more  a  manufacturing  than  a  com- 
mercial city.  Saint  Paul  monopolizes  much  of  the 
commerce  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Steamboats  can 
only  ascend  to  Fort  Snelling,  some  miles  below  the 
Falls,  hence  Minneapolis  depends  largely  upon  the 
railroads  for  transportation.  But  while  Saint  Paul 
measures  miles  of  streets  lined  with  stores  and  ware- 
houses, Minneapolis  can  show  an  equal  number  of 
mills  and  factories.  It  is  also  a  city  of  residences — a 


178  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

beautiful  city.  The  streets  are  broad  and  amply 
shaded,  and  the  houses  are,  many  of  them,  very  hand- 
somely built  and  surrounded  by  ornamental  gardens. 
Minneapolis  is  the  summer  resort  of  thousands  of 
visitors  who  come  here  from  all  points  on  the  Missis- 
sippi, as  far  down  as  New  Orleans,  to  escape  the  enerva- 
tion of  a  southern  summer,  and  enjoy  the  pure  and 
healthful  climate  and  delicious  scenery  of  the  city  and  its 
surroundings.  It  is  especially  a  resort  for  invalids,  who 
find  its  atmosphere  bracing  and  health-giving.  It  is 
moreover  the  centre  of  a  number  of  delightful  sum- 
mer haunts,  all  of  which  are  daily  growing  in  popu- 
larity. Lakes  Calhoun,  Harriet,  and  Minnetonka,  and 
the  Falls  of  Minnehaha,  attract  thousands  of  visitors, 
and  present  not  only  beauty  of  scenery,  but  all  the  con- 
veniences and  improvements  one  seeks  for  at  watering- 
places  in  the  East,  and  which  the  traveler  from  that 
section  is  hardly  prepared  to  encounter  on  the  confines 
of  civilization  in  the  Northwest.  Boating,  bathing, 
fishing  and  hunting  are  among  the  daily  amusements, 
while  commodious  hotels  and  attractive  cottages  stud 
the  shores  of  the  lakes,  and  provide  the  numerous 
visitors  with  every  comfort.  These  summer  resorts 
are  increasing  in  number  and  popularity,  and  the  many 
lakes  which  are  scattered  over  the  State  of  Minne- 
sota, will  all  of  them,  sooner  or  later,  make  their  at- 
tractions known  to  the  outside  world  and  draw  many 
summer  visitors.  Much  of  this  transient  travel  will 
find  its  way  through  Minneapolis,  being  attracted 
thither  by  the  beautiful  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony ;  so 
that  while  many  of  our  eastern  and  northern  cities 
record  their  largest  number  of  inhabitants  during  the 
winter  mouths,  Minneapolis  will,  and  in  fact  already 


MONTICELLO  TO  MINNEAPOLIS.  179 

does,  on  the  contrary,  find  her  population  very  con- 
siderably increased  during  the  summer. 

Minneapolis,  including  Saint  Anthony,  is  connected 
with  Saint  Paul  by  three  lines  of  railway,  while  the 
railroads  diverge  to  every  point  of  the  compass,  bring- 
ing an  influx  of  travel  and  produce  and  carrying  away 
its  merchandise.  The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  mag- 
nificent farming  country,  which  is  fast  becoming  settled 
by  a  superior  class  of  immigrants — Americans  from 
New  England  and  New  York  State,  Germans  from  the 
Fatherland,  and  Norwegians  and  Swedes  from  the 
land  of  Thor.  The  labor  of  these  farmers  and  the 
product  of  their  industry  contribute  to  keep  its  mills 
running,  to  increase  their  number,  and  to  make  this 
city  the  great  bread-giver  of  the  country.  People 
may  dispense  with  many  of  the  artificial  needs  created 
by  civilization ;  they  may  wrap  furs  around  them  in- 
stead of  the  products  of  the  loom  ;  tlfey  may  dwell  in 
caves,  or  construct  for  themselves  huts  of  mud  and 
the  boughs  of  trees,  but  the  whole  human  race,  civil- 
ized and  savage,  must  have  bread,  or  its  equivalent. 
The  Indian  raised  his  maize,  finding  an  animal  diet 
insufficient  for  his  needs;  and  the  great  wheat  fields 
of  Minnesota  furnish  something  better  than  maize  for 
the  race  that  has  displaced  and  succeeded  him ;  and  the 
many  mill-stones  of  Minneapolis,  set  in  motion  by 
nature's  engine,  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  grind 
and  crush  the  wheat  into  a  shape  ready  to  be  trans- 
formed into  bread  for  the  million. 

The  lumbermen  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  who  form 
a  distinct  class,  will  never  cease  their  labor  so  long  as 
there  is  a  pine  forest  left  standing;  while  the  swift 
current  of  the  river  furnishes  a  highway  on  which, 


180  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

without  the  aid  of  steam  or  sails,  and  with  river-drivers 
for  captains  and  crews,  their  drives  of  logs  find  ready 
and  inexpensive  transportation.  Transformed  from 
their  crude  state  into  a  shape  to  meet  the  needs  of  the 
builder,  the  river  still  affords  them  free  transit  and 
numerous  markets  along  its  more  than  two  thousand 
miles  of  shore. 

The  inhabitants  of  Minneapolis,  like  those  of  this 
entire  section  of  country,  are  pushing,  enterprising  citi- 
zens from  the  eastern  and  north-eastern  states,  who,  re- 
lieved from  the  difficulties  which  beset  them  in  their 
native  home,  and  with  all  the  resources  of  the  Great 
West  at  their  command,  accomplish  wonderful  things 
in  very  brief  periods  of  time.  The 'sprinkling  of 
Germans  and  Scandinavians  prefer  for  the  most  part 
to  settle  in  the  country.  There  is,  of  course,  the  usual 
class  of  river-men,  boatmen,  and  lumbermen  of  all 
kinds,  together  with  the  roughs  who  infest,  more  or  less, 
all  new  cities;  but  the  latter  are  comparatively  few. 

Minneapolis,  we  venture  to  prophesy,  is  destined  to 
become  the  metropolis  of  the  North-west.  She  is 
not  only  a  great  manufacturing  city,  but  the  most 
beautiful  and  attractive  in  this  region.  As  age  tones 
down  the  still  manifest  newness  of  her  twenty-five  or 
thirty  years  of  existence,  wears  away  the  rough  edges 
of  some  of  her  people,  and  substitutes  handsome 
edifices  for  the  few  remaining  rude  habitations  and 
business  places  of  her  early  pioneers,  she  will  become 
still  more  beautiful,  and  in  a  few  years  will  abundantly 
repay  a  pilgrimage  to  the  Upper  Mississippi,  while 
the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony  will  continue  to  be  not  the 
least  of  her  attractions  to  the  tourist  in  search  of  the 
sublime  and  beautiful. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

TEN   DAYS    AT   SAINT   PAUL. 

Fort  Smelling —  White-  Bear  Lake — Mlnne-ha-ha. 

'E  re-embarked  at  ten  o'clock  on  the  morn- 
ing of  August  twenty -seventh,  just  below 
the  rapids  at  Minneapolis  and,  aided  by 
an  unusually  strong  current,  soon  found 
ourselves  opposite  Fort  Snelling,  which  is 
midway  between  Minneapolis  and  Saint  Paul. 
Here  we  halted  to  view  one  of  the  oldest  land- 
marks of  the  North-west. 
Fort  Snelling  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Minnesota  and  Mississippi  rivers,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  latter.  The  buildings  of  the  garrison  are  upon  a 
high  bluff,  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water  level, 
stretching  to  the  north  and  west  in  a  gently  undulating 
and  fertile  prairie  interspersed  here  and  there  with 
heavy  groves  of  timber.  Around  tin's  Fort  cluster 
memories  of  the  early  struggles  of  the  pioneers  of 
civilization  with  the  savage  tribes  that  have  since 
been  sent  to  other  hunting-grounds.  It  is  a  promi- 
nent object  in  one  of  the  finest  landscapes  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi.  Recent  alterations,  however,  have  con- 
siderably changed  and  modernized  the  surroundings 
and  deprived  it  of  much  of  its  picturesqueness.  The 

(183) 


184.  DOWN  THE  CHEAT  RIVER. 

building  erected  outside  of  the  walls  for  the  accom- 
modation of  officers,  and  the  demolition  of  the  tower 
that  formerly  occupied  the  extreme  point  of  the  bluff, 
have  no  doubt  given  it  much  less  the  appearance  of  a 
fortification  than  it  previously  wore,  although  making  it 
presumably  much  pleasanter  for  those  who  reside  there. 
The  Fort  is  always  open  to  those  who  may  incline  to 
to  look  within  its  walls  and  view  whatever  there  is  of 
interest  to  be  seen.  In  these  days  of  peace,  however, 
it  does  not  present  a  very  warlike  appearance.  Of 
incidents  connected  with  its  history  many  interesting 
stories  are  told  which  illustrate  the  dangers,  trials  and 
hardships  to  which  the  early  settlers  were  subjected, 
and  the  character  of  their  savage  neighbors. 

Some  of  the  most  efficient  officers  of  our  military 
service  have  been  quartered  here,  and  have  received 
with  hospitality  the  various  scientific  expeditions  that 
have  from  time  to  time  passed  through  the  country. 
On  the  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota,  Lieuten- 
ant Pike  encamped  and  entered  into  negotiations  with 
the  Indians  for  the  site  of  the  present  Fort.  In  a  report 
to  the  War  Department  in  1817,  Major  Long  recom- 
mended the  position  for  a  permanent  fortification.  In 
1819,  a  detachment  of  the  Sixth  Infantry,  numbering 
three  hundred  men,  under  Colonel  Leaven  worth,  left 
Detroit  with  instructions  to  occupy  the  Fort,  and  on 
the  seventeenth  of  September  they  established  a  canton- 
ment on  the  south  side  of  the  Minnesota  near  its 
junction  with  the  Mississippi. 

Work  on  Fort  Snelling  was  begun  in  the  summer 
of  1820,  at  which  time  Colonel  Snelling  was  in  com- 
mand. Saint  Louis,  distant  nine  hundred  miles,  was 
then  the  nearest  town  of  any  importance.  The  first 


TEN  DAYS  AT  SAINT  PAUL.  135 

row  of  barracks  that  were  put  up  were  constructed  of 
hewn  logs,  the  others  of  stone.  The  Fort  was  built  in 
the  form  of  a  diamond  in  order  to  harmonize  with  the 
ground  at  the  extreme  points.  Where  a  tree  had  stood 
was  located  a  half-moon  battery,  to  the  rear  of  which 
were  the  quarters  of  the  officers,  a  very  neat  stone 
building,  the  front  of  cut  stone;  at  the  opposite 
point  a  tower.  The  Fort  was  enclosed  by  a  high 
stone  wall,  and  is  well  represented  in  the  accompanying 
illustration. 

Among  the  best  remembered  incidents  in  connection 
with  this  place  is  the  fact  that  the  first  white  woman 
who  saw  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony  was  the  wife  of 
Captain  George  Gooding  of  the  Fifth  Infantry. 

With  reference  to  the  Minnesota  River,  formerly 
known  as  the  Saint  Peter,  it  is  stated  to  have  been  first 
visited  by  Captain  Jonathan  Carver,  towards  the  close 
of  the  eighteenth  century,  who  published  an  account 
of  its  discovery  in  1778.  It  was  again  thoroughly 
explored  in  1823,  under  instructions  from  the  War 
Department.  Its  elevation  above  the  Gulf  is  seven 
hundred  and  forty-four  feet.  The  precise  latitude  of 
its  mouth  44°  ,52'  46". 

The  atmosphere  of  this  locality  is  represented  as 
serene  and  transparent  during  the  spring  and  summer 
seasons,  and  free  from  the  humidity  which  is  so  ob- 
jectionable a  trait  of  our  eastern  latitudes.  The  mean 
temperature  is  45°.  As  to  its  geological  and  miner- 
alogical  condition,  I  refer  to  Pike,  Schoolcraft,  Nicollet, 
and  other  eminent  scientists,  who  have  preceded  me 
in  the  exploration  of  this  section  of  the  Mississippi. 
It  will  be  sufficient  here  to  say  that  the  stratification 
at  and  below  Saint  Anthony  Falls  consists  wholly  of 


J86  DOWN  THE  CHEAT  RIVER. 

formations  of  sandstone  and  limestone,  horizontally 
deposited,  whose  relative  ages  are  chiefly  inferable 
from  the  evidences  of  organic  life  in  the  shape  of 
fossils  which  they  embrace.  The  lowest  of  this  series 
of  rock  is  said  to  be  a  white  sandstone  composed  of 
transparent  and  loosely  cohering  grains. 

Still  favored  with  a  brisk  current  and  an  encourag- 
ing breeze  at  our  backs,  we  glided  swiftly  down  to 
within  two  miles  of  the  northern  limits  of  Saint  Paul. 
Here  we  halted  and  had  luncheon  in  the  shade  of  a 
cluster  of  a  large  trees  standing  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  river. 

Soon  after  re-embarking  we  were  met  by  a  dele- 
gation of  the  Minnesota  Boat  Club,  who  came  up  in 
their  boats  to  exchange  greetings  and  welcome  us  to 
their  club-rooms,  a  courtesy  always  appreciated  by  voy- 
agers, and  especially  by  those  in  possession  of  craft 
requiring  careful  housing.  I  should  be  unworthy  of 
civilities  if  I  failed  to  say  that  the  young  men  com- 
posing this  club  are  gentlemen  in  the  fullest  sense  of 
the  term,  and  he  is  indeed  most  fortunate  who  holds 
a  key  to  their  delightful  quarters  on  "  The  Island." 

On  leaving  the  boat-house  we  ascended  a  flight  of 
steps  leading  up  to  the  bridge  which  crosses  the  river 
at  this  point.  Here  we  found  some  thousands  of  citi- 
zens congregated,  who  had  apparently  come  out  to  wit- 
ness our  rerpption  by  the  boat-dub.  A  carriage  was 
in  waiting,  into  which  we  were  ushered  and  driven  to 
the  Metropolitan. 

An  appointment  having  been  previously  made,  I 
lectured  at  Sherman  Hall  at  the  usual  hour;  was 
favored  with  a  very  full  house,  which,  considering  the 
torrid  condition  of  the  weather  at  the  time,  was  more 


TEN  DAYS  AT  SAINT  PAUL. 

than  I  had  expected.  The  press  criticisms  evinced  a  de- 
cided interest  in  the  "  Pioneers  of  the  Mississippi,"  and 
were  all  that  I  could  have  desired. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit,  Saint  Paul  had  about  fifty 
thousand  inhabitants,  with  large  commercial  interests, 
which  were  daily  increasing  in  extent  and  importance. 
The  city  was  originally  built  on  the  eastern,  or  left 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  on  a  plain,  some  eighty  feet 
above  the  river,  but  it  has  now  extended  to  the  western 
bank  also.  On  the  eastern  side  its  site  now  embraces 
four  distinct  terraces,  arranged  around  the  curve  of  the 
river  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre  with  a  southern 
exposure.  The  second  and  third  terraces,  upon  which 
the  city  is  principally  built,  widen  out  into  level  semi- 
circular plains. 

Father  Hennepin  was  the  first  white  man  to  reach 
the  site  of  Saint  Paul,  having  visited  the  locality  in 
1680.  In  1766,  Carver  made  a  treaty  with  the  Dakota 
Indians  in  what  is  now  known  as  Carver's  Cave.  In 
1837,  the  first  United  States  treaty  was  entered  into 
with  the  Sioux,  who  threw  their  lands  open  to  settle- 
ment, and  the  first  claim  was  entered  by  Pierre  Perent, 
a  Canadian  traveler  and  adventurer,  who  sold  it  two 
years  later  for  forty  dollars.  His  former  claim  now 
embraces  the  principal  part  of  the  city.  The  first 
building  was  erected  in  1838,  and  the  place  continued 
a  mere  Indian  trading-post  for  several  years  thereafter. 
It  was  surveyed  in  1845,  and  in  1847  there  were  but 
three  white  families  upon  the  ground.  In  1846,  Saint 
Paul  had  but  ten  white  inhabitants.  In  L847,  it  was 
laid  out  into  village  streets,  and  in  1849  became  the 
site  of  a  Catholic  mission.  A  municipal  government 
was  established  in  1854,  when  the  town  had  three 


190  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

thousand  inhabitants.  In  1856,  the  number  had  in- 
creased to  ten  thousand.  In  1880,  twenty-four  years 
later,  it  had  been  multiplied  by  five,  the  census  returns 
giving  fifty  thousand,  with  a  growth  of  one  hundred 
per  cent,  during  the  previous  ten  years.  In  1849,  the 
business  of  the  place  amounted  to  $131 ,000.  In  1854, 
it  had  increased  to  $6,000,000,  with  $700,000  of  capi- 
tal invested. 

The  original  town  was  regularly  laid  out,  but  the 
additions  are  irregular.  The  streets  are  well  graded 
and  generally  paved.  The  third  terrace  is  underlaid 
by  a  stratum  of  limestone  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet 
thick,  and  of  this  material  many  of  the  buildings  are 
constructed.  The  city  has  several  excellent  hotels,  and 
many  churches  belonging  to  the  various  denominations 
of  Christians.  Five  bridges  cross  the  river;  lines  of 
horse-cars  connect  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  a  system 
of  sewerage  drains  it  of  all  impurities.  The  State 
Capitol — in  process  of  erection  when  I  saw  it — occu- 
pies one  entire  square,  on  an  elevation  overlooking  the 
city  and  river.  The  Opera  House,  on  Wabasha 
Street,  seating  about  twelve  hundred  persons,  is  a  large 
and  handsome  building.  The  Academy  of  Sciences 
contains  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  speci- 
mens in  natural  history.  The  Historical  Society  and 
Library  Association  have  each  fine  public  libraries. 
The  public  and  private  schools  of  Saint  Paul  are  all 
of  the  first  order  of  excellence,  and  there  are  several 
female  seminaries  of  a  high  grade.  A  Protestant  and  a 
Catholic  Orphan  Asylum  and  three  hospitals  represent 
the  public  charitable  institutions. 

Saint  Paul  is  nominally  at  the  head  of  navigation  of 
the  Mississippi,  the  further  progress  of  steamboats  up 


TEN  DA  YS  AT  8AINT  PA UL.  191 

the  river  being  checked  by  the  rapids  below  the  Falls 
of  Saint  Anthony.  The  river  here  is  open  from  two 
hundred  to  two  hundred  and  forty  days  in  the  year, 
and  several  steamboats  arrive  and  depart  daily.  It  is 
a  thorough  business  city,  its  chief  thoroughfares  being 
lined  with  large  and  well-built  stores  and  warehouses; 
the  movements  of  the  people  on  the  streets  indicating 
the  hurry  and  preoccupation  of  pressing  business  pur- 
suits. The  casual  visitor  is  reminded  of  Chicago  more 
than  of  any  other  city  of  the  West.  At  its  back  lie  the 
grain  and  lumber-producing  regions  of  Minnesota  and 
Wisconsin,  which  are  yearly  filling  up  with  an  intelli- 
gent and  industrious  people.  Their  produce  finds  an 
outlet  at  this  port,  and  here  they  look  for  a  great  por- 
tion of  their  supplies.  The  retail  trade  of  Saint  Paul 
is  very  large,  and  it  is  also  in  great  part  the  wholesale 
centre  of  a  large  circle  of  smaller  towns. 

Its  double  line  of  river  bank  affords  ample  wharfage. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  network  of  railways,  connecting 
it  with  the  large  and  growing  city  of  Minneapolis, 
and  with  every  town  of  importance  in  Minnesota  and 
adjoining  states.  These  secure  permanence  to  its 
prosperity,  since  railroads,  even  more  thaii  rivers, 
make  flourishing  cities  in  the  present  day. 

There  are  many  points  of  interest  around  the  city. 
On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  near  the  shore,  is  the 
celebrated  Carver's  Cave,  a  romantic  opening  or  aper- 
ture in  Dayton  Bluff,  in  the  interior  of  which  the 
treaty  before  referred  to  was  concluded.  There  is  a 
small  lake  in  this  cave  which  may  be  crossed  by  a 
boat.  Two  miles  from  Saint  Paul  is  Fountain  Cave, 
deriving  its  name  from  a  stream  which  flows  through 
it  and  which  probably  was  the  originating  cause  of  the 
11 


192  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

cave.  It  contains  several  chambers,  some  of  ample 
dimensions,  and,  it  is  said,  that  at  one  thousand  feet 
from  the  opening  in  the  rock  no  termination  has  yet 
been  discovered.  The  rock  is  of  pure  white,  soft  sand- 
stone, and  the  entrance  to  the  cave  is  about  fifteen  feet 
in  width.  About  three  hundred  feet  in  the  interior 
from  its  mouth,  a  cascade  some  fifteen  feet  in  height 
falls  into  the  stream.  This  cave  is  a  favorite  resort  in 
the  summer,  and  presents  many  features  of  interest  to 
the  geologist. 

The  Falls  of  Minnehaha,  made  famous  by  Long- 
fellow in  his  immortal  "Song  of  Hiawatha,"  are 
reached  by  a  pleasant  drive  past  Fort  Snelling.  The 
name  of  these  Falls  signifies  "  Laughing  Water."  In 
the  words  of  Longfellow's  beautiful  description  of  the 
journey  of  his  hero  to  the  land  of  the  Dakotas, 

-  Till  he  heard  the  cataract's  laughter, 
Heard  the  Falls  of  Minnehaha, 
Calling  to  him  through  the  silence," 

we  have  a  definition  of  this  poetical  name.  The 
stream,  which  is  a  confluent  of  the  Great  River,  enters 
a  deep  ravine  by  a  downright  plunge  of  fifty  feet, 
bursting  into  foam  as  it  descends,  and  sending  up  a 
cloud  of  spray  from  its  base.  It  falls  into  a  large  basin 
and  thence  proceeds  quietly  forward  to  its  junction 
with  the  Mississippi.  The  sheet  of  water  is  projected 
over  a  shelf  of  rock  of  a  semicircular  form,  and  be- 
neath this  shelf  pedestrians  may  pass  dryshod. 

White  Bear  Lake,  twelve  miles  distant  from  Saint 
Paul,  and  about  an  equal  distance  from  Minneapolis, 
is  becoming  a  popular  pleasure  resort.  Located  at 
the  junction  of  the  Saint  Paul  and  Duluth  and  the 


FALLS  OF   MIXXE-IIA-IIA. 


TEN  DAYS  AT  SAINT  PAUL. 

Minneapolis  and  Saint  Louis  railways,  it  is  about 
four  miles  in  length ;  and  nearly  midway  between  its 
eastern  and  western  banks  is  a  long,  forest-covered 
islet.  The  water  of  the  lake  is  transparently  pure  and 
of  the  color  of  the  bright  blue  sky  overhead.  The 
largest  fleet  of  sailing  yachts  to  be  found  on  any  west- 
ern lake,  is  seen  floating  here,  many  of  them  costly 
and  of  elegant  construction.  Large  hotels  have  been 
erected  on  the  western  and  southern  banks  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors,  while  picturesque  villas  dot 
its  western  shore,  owned  by  wealthy  business  men  of 
Saint  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  who  send  their  families 
here  to  reside  during  the  summer,  and  join  them  each 
evening  after  the  close  of  business.  White  Bear  is 
che  oldest  summer  resort  in  the  State.  Camping-out 
is  here  reduced  to  a  science,  and  we  find  encampment* 
large  enough  to  be  called  villages,  the  tents  being  as 
commodious  and  comfortably  furnished  as  the  parlors 
and  bedrooms  at  home.  White  Bear  is  a  popular 
place  for  pic-nics  for  the  surrounding  cities,  towns, 
villages  and  farms.  In  the  country  around  are  nu- 
merous smaller  lakes,  which  are  sought  for  fishing 
and  duck  hunting. 

Bald  Eagle  Lake  lies  a  mile  beyond  White  Bear. 
It  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water,  but  not  so  large  as  the 
latter.  It  has  high  banks  and  is  full  of  fish  of  sev- 
eral varieties.  A  few  pretty  cottages  have  been  built 
here,  and  occupied  as  summer  residences.  A  mineral 
spring  was  discovered  some  years  since  and  a  pavilion 
erected  over  it  by  the  late  Dr.  Post,  of  Saint  Paul, 
who  also  built  a  summer  residence  near  by.  The  City 
Park  is  located  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Como,  two  miles 
from  the  centre  of  Saint  Paul. 


19G  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

Saint  Paul  is  associated,  like  Saint  Louis,  with  the 
names  of  early  explorers  and  navigators  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, although  its  settlement  is  comparatively  recent. 
Its  name  was  derived  from  that  of  a  log-chapel  dedi- 
cated to  the  Apostle  Paul  in  1841,  by  the  Jesuit 
missionaries.  Unlike  Saint  Louis,  or  New  Orleans, 
it  has  no  antiquated  streets  and  perpetuates  no  French 
or  Spanish  names.  It  is  intensely  American  and 
intensely  nineteenth  century.  The  population  is  com- 
posed principally  of  immigrants  or  their  descendants, 
from  the  northern  and  especially  the  New  England 
States,  while  its  foreign  element  is  largely  German 
and  Scandinavian,  which,  however,  is  gradually  be- 
coming Americanized.  The  children  of  these  foreign 
citizens  will  be  Americans  not  only  in  fact,  but  in 
feeling  and  interests. 

The  rapid  growth  of  our  country  is  in  nothing  more 
palpably  demonstrated  than  by  the  founding  and 
development  of  her  cities.  Yesterday  there  was  a 
wilderness,  uninhabited  and  almost  unexplored.  To- 
day, there  is  a  thriving  town  cherishing  great  ex- 
pectations, which  in  most  instances  are  more  than 
realized  on  the  morrow.  Vast  territories,  inhabited  by 
only  a  few  bands  of  Indians,  have  in  a  single  genera- 
tion been  converted  into  populous  states;  desert  wastes 
have  developed,  under  the  intelligent  labor  of  men,  a 
wonderful  degree  of  fertility ;  and  the  progress  of 
civilization  in  its  western  march  can  be  arrested  only 
by  the  waves  of  the  Pacific,  which  beat  upon  the  rock-- 
bound coast  of  California,  Oregon  and  Washington. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

SAINT   PAUL,   TO   LA   CROSSE. 


FOSTER  HOUSE, 

Hastings,  Minnesota, 

September  5,  1881. 

'ITH  the  feeling  that  another  week  might 
have  been  profitably  spent  in  and  around 
Saint  Pa"!*  we  shook  hands  with  many 
newly-made  friends  and  again    stepped 
into  our  canoes  in  front  of  the  Boat-club 
House.     A  moment  later  and  we  were  once 
more  wending  our  way  upon  the  broad  bosom 
of  the  Father  of  Waters,  floating  and  paddling 
towards  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Having  abandoned  my  birch  canoe,  Discovery,  at 
Minneapolis,  I  took  for  personal  use  the  Alice,  which 
had  hitherto  been  in  charge  of  my  brother,  who  -had 
now  retired  from  the  expedition  altogether  and  was 
acting  in  the  capacity  of  advance  agent  in  connection 
with  my  lecture  appointments.  Paine  was  assigned 
to  the  Itasca.  Horace  Greeley  Scott,  of  Hudson,  Wis- 
consin, who  had  been  engaged  at  Saint  Paul  as  voy- 
ageur,  acted  as  "  crew  "  of  the  Alice. 

Our  journey  from  Saint  Paul  to  Hastings  was  un- 
eventful, except  as  to  the  weather,  which  was  decid- 

-(197) 


198  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

edly  uncomfortable.  A  drizzling  rain  set  in  at  an 
early  hour  in  the  morning,  which  increased  in  strength 
until  eleven  o'clock,  when  the  water  came  down  in 
torrents,  drenching  our  clothing  and  making  naviga- 
tion anything  but  agreeable.  Nothing  but  an  ap- 
pointment to  lecture  in  the  evening  could  have  kept 
me  in  my  canoe  under  such  circumstances. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  what  is 
termed  the  narrowest  place  in  the  Mississippi  below 
the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony.  The  river  at  this  point 
is  clear  of  islands  and  not  more  than  one  hundred 
yards  wide.  Pike  states  that  his  men  rowed  across  in 
forty  strokes  of  the  oar;  another  traveler  avers  that  he 
crossed  in  1857,  from  a  dead  start,  in  sixteen  strokes. 

While  passing  through  this  contraction  of  the  river 
it  was  our  good  or  ill  fortune  to  meet  the  Gem  City,  the 
favorite  steamer  plying  between  Saint  Paul  and  Saint 
Louis.  Our  meeting  with  this  boat  was  the  first  in- 
stance in  which  we  had  encountered  any  craft  of 
respectable  dimensions  in  the  descent  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  we  had  learned  from  actual  experience  that 
it  was  advisable  to  exercise  some  caution  when  ven- 
turing our  canoes  near  the  wake  of  such  vessels  as  the 
one  in  question,  if  we  desired  to  put  our  voyage  on  a 
practical  basis.  It  is  true  we  had  taken  some  precau- 
tions; had  paddled  in  towards  the  western  bank  from 
the  middle  of  the  stream,  where  we  felt  quite  secure 
from  the  swell  which  would  naturally  follow  the 
movement  of  so  large  a  body  in  deep  water.  The 
waves  came  as  we  anticipated,  but  not  so  mildly  as  we 
had  predicted ;  on  the  contrary,  the  first  that  reached 
us  came  with  a  snap  and  a  swash,  lifting  us  high  and 
dry  upon  the  beach  at  least  five  feet  from  the  water's 


SAINT  PAUL  TO  LA  CROSSE.  199 

edge,, precipitating  on  the  beach  the  contents  of  the 
canoes,  including  their  "gallant  crews."  Some  con- 
solation was  found,  however,  in  the  reflection  that  any 
position  on  shore  was  preferable  to  one  at  the  bottom 
of  the  river. 

The  "commodore"  was  compelled  to  bear  the  en- 
tire responsibility  of  this  "toss  up,"  as  the  captain  of 
the  Itasca  had  suggested  paddling  against  the  waves 
as  a  proper  precaution  against  a  capsize.  It  will  be 
sufficient  to  add  that  this  advice  was  not  unheeded  in 
similar  cases  thereafter. 

With  canoes  half-full  of  water  and  streams  of  the 
same  element  running  from  our  clothes,  we  disem- 
barked at  five  o'clock  at  the  ferry-landing  in  front  of 
Hastings,  where  we  were  met  and  escorted  to  the 
Foster  House  by  Irving  Todd  of  the  Gazette,  Rev.  At 
B.  Chapin,  Dr.  Reuben  Freeman,  J.  B.  Lambert  and 
others.  Acting  upon  the  advice  of  Mr.  Lambert,  who 
had  been  engaged  to  introduce  me,  my  lecture  appoint- 
ment at  this  place  was  indefinitely  postponed  in  con- 
sequence of  the  storm  which  raged  throughout  the 
night 

The  evening  was  spent  most  agreeably  in  the  par- 
lors of  the  Foster  House,  where  a  number  of  the  repre- 
sentative men  of  the  city,  including  several  clergymen, 
assembled  to  listen  to  whatever  I  felt  inclined  to  tell 
them  of  our  discovery  and  adventures  at  the  head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi.  I  was  not  favorably  im- 
pressed with  the  business  enterprise  of  Hastings,  but 
will  always  have  a  pleasant  recollection  of  the  hospi- 
tality of  its  people.  The  city  has  a  wheat  and  lum- 
ber market,  with  four-flour  mills,  and  three  saw- 
mills, and  a  population  of  about  four  thousand. 


200  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVEE. 


SAINT  JAMES  HOTEL, 
Red  Wing,  Minnesota, 
September  Sixth. 

Eight  o'clock  found  us  in  our  canoes  at  Hastings. 
The  weather  indications  of  the  morning  were  prophetic 
of  a  pleasant  trip  to  Red  Wing  ;  but,  alas  !  appearances 
were  deceitful,  as  the  storm,  which  had  evidently  been 
slumbering  for  a  few  hours,  broke  out  afresh  at  ten 
o'clock  and  kept  us  company  throughout  the  entire 
day.  We  attempted  a  landing  at  several  points  above 
the  city,  but  rain,  high  winds  and  a  swift  current 
prevented. 

The  mouth  of  the  Saint  Croix  River  was  reached 
at  ten  o'clock.  This  stream,  which  enters  the  Missis- 
sippi three  miles  below  Hastings,  forms  the  boundary 
between  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin.  For  a  consider- 
able distance  below  the  Saint  Croix  the  water  of  the 
Mississippi,  where  shoal,  is  of  a  reddish  appearance, 
but  very  black  in  deep  water.  The  red  is  occasioned 
by  the  sand  seen  at  the  bottom,  which  is  of  that  color; 
the  dark  is  invariably  common  to  deep  water  when 
moderately  limpid. 

Thoroughly  drenched  a  second  time  since  leaving 
Saint  Paul,  it  was  with,  an  exceedingly  keen  apprecia- 
tion that  we  received  a  hearty  welcome  at  the  boat- 
house-landing  at  this  place.  Our  canoes  out  of  the 
water  and  securely  housed,  we  hastened  up  to  the  Saint 
James,  where  we  were  quickly  shown  our  rooms  and 
glad  enough  to  get  into  them,  and  into  bed,  too,  as 
my  trunk  containing  changes,  which  should  have 
preceded  us,  had  not  arrived  from  Hastings. 


SAINT  PAUL   TO  LA  CROSSE.  201 

A  conference  with  the  lecture  committee  led  to  the 
same  conclusion  we  had  arrived  at  in  Hastings,  that 
with  the  storm  howling  without,  and  the  lecturer 
hors  de  combat,  it  were  better  to  let  the  Pioneers  of 
the  Mississippi 

"  Sleep  the  sleep  that  knows  not  breaking  ; :> 

hence,  the  engagement  for  Red  Wing  was  declared 
cancelled. 

Like  several  other  cities  in  this  State,  Red  Wing  has 
a  history,  and  exemplifies  how  much  an  intelligent 
and  industrious  people  can  accomplish  in  a  very  short 
time.  The  standard  of  civilization  was  originally 
planted  here  by  two  Swiss  missionaries,  Denton  and 
Garin,  who  arrived,  accompanied  by  their  wives,  in 
1838.  The  savage  Dakotas  at  this  date  occupied  the 
territory,  and  these  brave  and  self-denying  missionaries 
labored  among  them  until  the  health  of  Denton  failed 
in  1846,  when  the  American  Board  of  Missions  ap- 
pointed Rev.  Messrs.  J.  W.  Hancock  and  John  Aiton, 
of  Vermont,  to  succeed  them.  Two  mission-houses 
were  built,  one  of  which  remains  to  this  day.  Two 
white  families  and  about  three  hundred  Indians  were 
at  that  time — thirty-six  years  ago — the  sole  occupants 
of  what  is  now  the  enterprising  little  city  of  Red 
Wing. 

In  June,  1852,  the  Indians  entered  into  a  treaty 
with  the  Government,  which  authorized  the  country 
to  be  occupied  by  white  settlers,  but  the  close  of  the 
same  year  saw  only  about  forty  white  people  in  the 
village.  On  the  following  Christmas  Day  the  entire 
white  community  dined  at  the  residence  of  William 
Freeborn,  one  of  the  first  settlers.  The  town  now 


£02  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

commenced  to  grow  and  has  developed  very  consider- 
ably up  to  the  present  time,  the  population  at  this  date 
being  about  ten  thousand.  Red  Wing  has  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  one  of  the  largest  primary  wheat  markets 
in  the  country,  having  handled  grain  to  the  amount 
of  nearly  three  million  bushels.  Some  of  its  manu- 
factures also  are  acquiring  a  wide  reputation.  The 
clay  deposits  in  the  neighborhood  are  said  to  be  among 
the  finest  and  richest  in  America;  and  it  is  in  contem- 
plation to  commence  the  manufacture  of  glass,  as  a 
sand  of  very  superior  quality  abounds  here. 

Being  only  six  miles  from  Lake  Pepin,  one  of  the 
finest  bodies  of  water  in  the  West,  surrounded  by  some 
of  the  most  magnificent  scenery  to  be  found  anywhere 
on  the  continent,  Red  Wing  will  probably  in  a  short 
time  become  a  summer  resort ;  and  at  no  distant  day, 
with  its  abundance  of  timber,  transportation  facilities, 
and  productive  farming  country,  may  possibly  become 
one  of  the  leading  cities  of  Minnesota.  Lumber  and 
all  its  products  are  in  a  flourishing  condition ;  laths, 
shingles,  sashes,  doors  and  blinds,  hubs,  spokes,  felloes 
and  every  variety  of  bent-work  being  manufactured 
extensively.  Boots  and  shoes,  furniture,  stoneware, 
boilers  and  wagons,  have  also  found  a  solid  footing. 
The  lime  and  stone  business  has  developed  during  the 
past  few  years  into  an  important  industry.  Common 
and  pressed  brick  are  also  extensively  made  here,  and 
have  acquired  an  excellent  reputation  throughout  the 
Northwest.  Steam-engines  and  heavy  and  light  cast- 
ings are  manufactured.  The  city  has  an  excellent  fire 
department  and  water-works;  and  its  public  schools 
are  said  to  rank  among  the  best  in  the  State.  Red 
Wing  is  distant  from  Saint  Paul  sixty-five  miles. 


SAINT  PA  UL   TO  LA  CROSSE.  203 


MERCHANT'S  HOTEL, 

Lake  City,   Minnesota, 

September  Seventh. 

The  clouds  lifted  at  sunrise,  and  in  anticipation  of  a 
pleasant  trip  through  Lake  Pepin  we  took  a  hurried 
stroll  through  the  leading  streets  of  Red  Wing  imme- 
diately after  breakfast,  and  an  hour  later  were  in  our 
canoes  on  our  way  down  the  river. 

A  gentle  swell  followed  by  a  very  perceptible  buoy- 
ancy of  the  canoes  gave  intimation  that  we  were  ap- 
proaching a  body  of  water  of  no  mean  pretensions. 
For  several  days  we  had  been  cautioned  to  "  beware 
of  Lake  Pepin,"  and  when  at  last  we  found  ourselves 
gliding  smoothly  over  its  placid  bosom,  we  felt  that  its 
turbulent  propensities  had  been  greatly  exaggerated. 
It  took  but  a  few  moments  however  to  reverse  the 
scene  and  convince  us  that  the  Fates  were  not  alto- 
gether favorable.  A  strong  southerly  wind,  again  ac- 
companied by  rain,  made  our  journey  through  Lake 
Pepin  memorable,  if  not  agreeable.  For  over  ten 
hours  the  elements  held  possession  and  the  waves  ran 
so  high  that  Paine,  who  led  the  way  in  the  Itasca,  was 
frequently  out  of  sight  in  the  troughs,  though  not 
more  than  forty  yards  in  advance  of  the  Alice. 

I  contemplated  a  halt  at  one  time,  but  the  rugged  and 
precipitous  character  of  the  bluffs,  which  came  down  to 
the  water's  edge,  would  have  made  a  landing  extremely 
difficult,  if  not  dangerous;  and  besides,  to  be  perfectly 
frank,  we  were  engaged  upon  a  voyage  from  Source 
to  Sea,  and  I,  for  one,  did  not  feel  like  taking  the  re- 
sponsibility of  showing  the  "  white  feather."  Having 


DO WN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

an  engagement  to  lecture  at  Lake  City,  I  was  com- 
pelled to  stick  to  the  canoes,  and  meet  the  appointment 
in  the  usual  way,  or  disembark  and  go  down  by  rail, 
thus  acknowledging,  after  a  three  months'  cruise  on  the 
Mississippi,  that  our  mode  of  locomotion  was  imprac- 
ticable. We,  therefore,  resolved  to  remain  in  the 
canoes  if  every  member  of  the  party  went  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  lake. 

My  new  voyageur,  Scott,  acquitted  himself  with  great 
credit  on  this  occasion,  considering  the  fact  that  he  had 
never  been  in  a  canoe  before  joining  us  at  Saint  Paul. 
His  complete  self-possession  and  steady  nerve  had 
ranch  to  do  with  carrying  me  safely  through  one  of 
the  most  trying  situations  I  had  been  called  upon  to 
master  since  leaving  Lake  Winnibegoshish. 

We  struck  the  beach  at  Frontenac  between  twelve 
and  one  o'clock,  heartily  glad  to  set  our  feet  again  on 
solid  earth,  and  quite  willing  to  let  old  Pepin  lash  his 
sides  for  an  hour  at  least  to  his  heart's  content. 

Frontenac  is  a  small  hamlet,  of  perhaps  two  hun- 
dred souls,  standing  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake, 
about  ten  miles  below  Red  Wing.  It  is  a  most  ro- 
mantic spot  in  appearance,  and  will,  I  venture  to  pre- 
dict, at  no  distant  day  become  a  most  delightful  sum- 
mer resort.  Considerable  attention  has  already  been 
drawn  to  it  in  this  particular,  and  we  especially  noted 
good  hotel  accommodations  and  the  presence  on  its 
white-sand  beach  of  many  yachts,  skiffs  and  canoes. 

We  were  met  here  by  Mr.  A.  W.  Ditmars,  of  Lake 
City,  who  came  up  to  confer  with  me  concerning  my 
lecture  appointment  at  this  place.  After  dining  with 
us  at  the  hotel,  he  suggested  that  I  should  have  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  General  Israel  Garrard.  We 


SAIJVT  PA  UL   TO  LA    CROSSE.  £07 

walked  up  to  the  general's  residence  on  the  bluff, 
where  I  was  introduced  and  spent  an  hour  most  agree- 
ably. General  Garrard  is  a  gentleman  of  leisure  and 
culture,  and  possesses  a  fund  of  information  concern- 
ing the  legendary  history  of  Lake  Pepin  which  is  ot 
absorbing  interest  to  those  who  desire  to  preserve 
records  of  aboriginal  times. 

It  was  hoped,  when  we  disembarked,  that  the  lake 
would  calm  before  we  returned  to  our  canoes,  but  in 
this  we  were  destined  to  disappointment,  for  on  reach- 
ing the  beach  we  found  the  wind  still  piling  up  the 
waves  to  a  threatening  height  and  making  the  outlook 
for  our  little  flotilla  anything  but  inviting.  General 
Garrard  and  Mr.  Ditmars  said,  "  if  you  value  your 
lives,  don't  launch  those  canoes  on  Lake  Pepin  to-day." 
Many  others  on  the  shore  echoed  the  same  sentiment. 
Still  determined,  however,  to  go  down  to  Lake  City  in 
our  staunch  little  crafts,  Paine  stepped  promptly  into 
the  Itasca,  while  Scott  and  myself  pulled  out  in  the 
Alice. 

Running  out  into  the  lake  we  soon  rounded  the  sand- 
bar which  lies  directly  in  front  of  Frontenac  and  headed 
down  stream.  We  hugged  the  western  bank  as  closely 
as  possible,  seeking  the  protection  of  the  friendly  bluffs 
against  the  violent  wind,  which  now  came  sweeping 
across  the  lake  from  a  south-westerly  quarter. 

Three  miles  below  Frontenac  we  descried  the  cele- 
brated Maiden  Rock,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly 
five  hundred  feet  on  the  eastern  shore.  The  upper  two 
hundred  feet  are  formed  by  a  perpendicular  bluff,  and 
the  lower  three  hundred  constitute  a  very  abrupt  and 
precipitous  slope  which  extends  from  the  base  of  the 
bluff  to  the  edge  of  the  water.  This  forms  a  point, 


208  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

projecting  into  the  lake  and  bounded  by  two  small 
basins,  each  of  which  is  the  estuary  of  a  brook.  The 
wildness  of  the  scenery  is  such  that  even  the  voyager 
who  has  gazed  with  delight  upon  the  majestic  bluffs 
of  the  Mississippi  is  forcibly  impressed  with  the 
grandeur  of  this  spot.  There  was  much  in  it  that  we 
had  not  met  with  at  any  other  point  of  the  far-stretch- 
ing Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  a  high-projecting  point, 
a  precipitous  crag  resting  upon  a  steep  bank  whose 
base  is  washed  by  a  wide  expanse  of  water,  which  con- 
trasts strikingly  with  the  savage  outlines  of  the  land- 
scape. But  Maiden  Rock  receives  additional  interest 
from  the  melancholy  tale  which  is  connected  with  its 
history  and  which  casts  a  deep  gloom  over  its 
brightest  feature. 

There  was  a  time,  so  the  legend  runs,  when  this  now 
desolate  spot  was  the  scene  of  a  most  tragic  event. 
In  the  Indian  village  of  Keoxa,  in  the  tribe  of  Wa- 
pasha,  there  lived  a  young  Indian  maiden,  whose 
name  was  Winona,  which  signifies  the  "  first-born." 
She  had  formed  an  attachment  for  a  young  hunter  of 
the  tribe,  who  returned  her  affection.  They  had  fre- 
quently met  and  agreed  to  become  united  in  marriage, 
but  on  applying  to  her  parents,  the  young  hunter  was 
rejected,  and  informed  that  a  warrior  of  distinction 
had  sued  for  their  daughter  and  their  consent  had  been 
given.  The  warrior  was  a  favorite  with  the  tribe,  and 
had  acquired  great  popularity  from  his  services  to  the 
village  against  the  Chippevvas.  Winona,  however, 
remained  faithful  to  her  lover,  notwithstanding  his 
rival's  efforts  to  supplant  him  and  the  countenance  he 
received  from  her  parents  and  brothers.  To  them  she 
replied  that  she  had  made  choice  of  a  man  who,  being 


SAINT  PAUL  TO  LA  CROSSE.  £09 


a  hunter,  would  remain  with  her  and  secure  her 
sistence  and  comfort;  while  the  warrior  would  be  fre- 
quently absent,  intent  upon  martial  exploits.  Winona's 
reasoning  and  earnest  entreaties,  however,  were  in  vain, 
and  her  parents  at  length  drove  away  her  lover,  and 
commenced  harsh  measures  in  order  to  compel  her  to 
marry  the  warrior.  She  begged  them  to  allow  her  to 
live  a  single  life,  but  to  all  her  entreaties  they  turned 
a  deaf  ear.  Winona  had  hitherto  enjoyed  a  great  share 
in  the  affections  of  her  family,  and  had  been  indulged 
more  than  is  usual  with  females  among  Indians.  Her 
affectionate  disposition  had  made  her  a  favorite  with 
her  brothers,  and  they  endeavored  to  influence  their 
parents  to  use  persuasive  means  to  accomplish  their 
wishes,  in  preference  to  compelling  her  to  the  union 
against  her  inclination.  To  remove  some  of  her  ob- 
jections to  the  warrior,  they  undertook,  themselves,  to 
provide  for  her  future  maintenance,  and  accordingly 
presented  to  her  suitor  many  articles  that  an  Indian 
might  desire  to  possess,  as  a  propitiatory  offering  in 
behalf  of  their  sister.  About  this  time  a  party  was 
formed  in  the  village  to  ascend  the  river  to  Lake 
Pepin,  in  order  to  procure  a  supply  of  the  blue  clay 
which  is  found  upon  its  banks  at  a  certain  spot,  and 
which  was  used  by  the  Indians  to  make  paint.  Wiuona 
and  some  of  her  friends  were  of  the  party,  and  it  was 
on  this  day  that  her  brothers  had  offered  their  presents 
to  the  warrior.  Thus  encouraged,  he  again  addressed 
the  young  girl,  but  with  the  same  ill  success.  She 
refused  to  be  united  to  him,  and  would  remain  single 
all  her  life.  Her  parents  again  remonstrated  in  strong 
language,  and  threatened  to  compel  her  to  obedience. 
"Winona,  with  tears,  replied  :  "  You  will  drive  me  to  de- 


210  DOWN  THE  CHEAT  RIVER. 

spair;  I  have  said  I  love  him  not;  I  cannot  live  with 
him;  I  wish  to  remain  a  maiden.  You  say  you  love 
me,  that  you  are  my  father,  my  mother,  my  brothers, 
my  relations ;  yet  you  have  cruelly  parted  me  from  the 
only  man  with  whom  I  wish  to  be  united;  you  have 
compelled  him  to  leave  the  village;  alone  he  now  wan- 
ders through  the  forest,  with  no  one  to  assist  him, 
none  to  spread  his  blanket,  none  to  build  his  lodge, 
none  to  wait  on  him  ;  yet  he  was  the  man  of  my  choice. 
Is  this  your  love  for  me?  But  even  this  is  not  enough : 
you  would  have  me  rejoice  in  his  absence;  you  wish 
me  to  unite  with  another  man,  one  whom  I  do  not  and 
cannot  love,  and  with  whom  I  never  can  be  happy. 
Jf  this  is  your  love  for  me,  I  will  say  no  more;  but 
soon  you  will  have  no  daughter  nor  sister  to  torment 
with  your  false  love."  She  then  withdrew;  but  her 
parents,  still  heedless  of  her  words,  decided  that 
Winona  should  be  united  with  the  warrior  that  very 
day.  While  they  and  their  friends  were  engaged  in 
preparations  for  the  festival,  Winona  wound  her  way 
slowly  to  the  top  of  the  high  rock — since  named 
Maiden  Rock.  On  reaching  the  summit  she  called 
loudly  to  her  friends  below,  and  upbraided  them  for 
their  cruelty  to  herself  and  her  lover.  "You  were 
not  satisfied,"  she  exclaimed,  "  with  refusing  my  union 
with  the  man  I  had  chosen,  but  you  tried  to  make  me 
faithless  to  him,  and  when  you  found  me  resolved 
upon  remaining  a  maiden,  you  threatened  to  compel 
me  to  marry  another.  You  knew  me  not.  You  will 
see  how  I  will  defeat  your  designs."  She  then  com- 
menced to  sing  her  dirge;  the  light  wind  wafted  the 
words  of  her  doleful  song  to  her  family  and  friends; 
they  rushed,  some  of  them,  to  the  top  of  the  rock  to 


SAINT  PAUL  TO  LA  CROSSE.  211 

stop  her;  others  to  the  foot  to  receive  her  in  their 
arms,  while  all,  with  tears,  entreated  her  to  desist  from 
her  fatal  purpose;  her  father  promising  that  no  com- 
pulsion should  again  be  resorted  to.  But  Winona's 
resolution  was  taken,  and,  concluding  her  song,  she  at 
once  leaped  from  the  precipice,  and  fell  a  lifeless  corpse 
at  the  feet  of  her  parents  and  brothers. 

This  legend  has  given  the  rock  its  name.  The  fate 
of  this  young  maiden  has  many  parallels  among  the 
Indians,  who  are  not  all  proof  against  the  finest  feel- 
ings of  our  nature,  whatever  may  be  thought  by  some 
to  the  contrary. 

Lake  Pepin  was  discovered  by  Father  Hennepin  in 
April,  1680,  who  says  of  it:  "About  thirty  Leagues 
above  Black  River  we  found  the  Lake  of  Tears,  which 
we  named  so  because  the  Savages  who  took  us,  as  it 
will  be  hereafter  related,  consulted  in  this  Place  what 
they  should  do  with  their  Prisoners ;  and  those  who 
were  for  rnurthering  us  cried  all  the  Night  upon  us,  to 
oblige  by  their  Tears  their  Companions  to  consent  to 
our  Death.  This  Lake  is  formed  by  the  Meschasipi, 
and  may  be  seven  Leagues  long  and  five  broad.  Its 
Waters  are  almost  standing,  the  Stream  being  hardly 
perceptible  in  the  Middle."  The  name  which  the  lake 
now  bears  is  evidently  of  French  origin,  but  I  have 
not  been  able  to  ascertain  who  applied  it,  or  what  cir- 
cumstances suggested  its  adoption. 

Progress  through  the  lake  was  painfully  slow,  and 
although  we  came  in  sight  of  this  place  at  four  o'clock, 
and  were  within  two  miles  of  its  landing  at  five,  the 
wind  and  waves  beat  so  persistently  against  our  bows 
that  we  did  not  reach  port  until  after  sunset.  Despite 
the  rain,  however,  which  was  still  falling,  a  large  con- 
12 


212  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

course  of  citizens  had  gathered  on  the  beach  to  see  us 
disembark  and  to  welcome  us  to  Lake  City.  A  brass 
band  was  in  attendance  and  discoursed  a  few  lively 
airs,  making  us  quite  forget  for  a  few  moments  that 
our  clothing  was  thoroughly  drenched  from  head  to 
foot. 

Lake  City  belongs  to  that  class  of  magic  cities  of  the 
West  which,  under  favorable  circumstances,  leap  into 
existence  and  develop  so  rapidly  as  to  far  exceed  the 
brightest  anticipations  of  their  founders.  Beautifully 
located  on  the  western  shore  of  Pepin,  enjoying  excel- 
lent rail  and  water  communications  with  all  points  up 
and  down  the  river,  it  is  destined  to  sustain  the 
prominence  it  has  gained  on  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

Jortu-mntl) 


NATIONAL  HOTEL, 

Minneiska,  Minnesota, 

September  Eighth. 

Weather  in  the  morning  fair  and  calm.  We  re- 
sumed our  journey  through  the  lake  at  eight  o'clock, 
and  glided  along  with  great  ease  until  within  three 
miles  of  its  southern  extremity,  when  a  violent  wind- 
storm from  the  northward  bore  down  upon  us,  and 
for  a  time  kept  us  hard  at  work  with  our  paddles  to 
prevent  the  swamping  of  the  canoes.  Our  observations 
on  Lake  Pepin  led  us  to  conclude  that  the  slighest 
breath  of  wind  will  produce  a  heavy  swell,  and  from 
this  circumstance  it  is  the  custom  of  voyagers  on  the 
river  to  pass  through  the  lake,  if  possible,  at  night  ; 
experience  having  taught  them  that  it  is  generally 
calmer  then  than  during  the  day.  It  is  twenty-one 
miles  long,  and  its  breadth,  which  varies  from  one  to 


SAINT  PAUL  TO  LA  CROSSE.  215 

three  miles,  may  be  averaged  at  about  two  and  a  half. 
Towards  its  outlet  the  valley  widens  considerably, 
owing  to  the  entrance  of  the  Chippewa  River.  This 
river  is  five  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth^  and  is 
navigable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  for  fifty  miles,  and 
in  time  of  freshets  boats  can  proceed  much  further  up. 
The  general  direction  of  the  lake  is  from  west-uorth- 
west  to  east-south-east.  The  scenery  along  its  shores 
contrasts  strongly  with  that  of  the  river.  Instead  of 
the  rapid  current  of  the  Mississippi,  winding  around 
numberless  islands,  some  of  which  display  well  wooded 
surfaces,  while  others  are  mere  sand-bars,  the  lake, 
when  calm,  presents  a  smooth  and  sluggish  expanse 
of  water,  unrelieved  by  a  single  island ;  nothing  limits 
the  view  but  the  towering  bluffs  which  enclose  it; 
these  extend  in  a  more  regular  manner,  and  with 
a  more  uniform  elevation  than  those  along  the 
river. 

We  halted  for  a  few  moments  at  Wabasha,  a  small 
town  on  the  right  bank,  twelve  miles  below  Lake 
City,  having  a  population  of  between  two  and  three 
thousand.  After  a  stroll  through  its  leading  streets 
we  returned  to  the  landing  and  re-embarked. 

Alma,  Wisconsin,  on  the  left  bank,  nine  miles  below 
Wabasha,  was  reached  in  season  for  dinner.  Although 
we  began  the  descent  of  the  Mississippi  on  the  twenty- 
second  of  July  and  had  floated  and  paddled  down  up- 
wards of  twelve  hundred  miles  of  its  course,  we  had 
not  until  now  eaten  a  meal  outside  of  Minnesota. 
This  State  may  well  be  proud  of  her  relation  to  the 
Mighty  River,  for  she  has  more  than  one-third  of  its 
entire  length  within  her  borders. 

Minneiska,  being  in  a  bend  of  the  river,  was  seen 


216  DOWN  THE  GREAT  JtlVEX. 

directly  in  our  front,  just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  be- 
hind the  horizon.  The  river,  the  town,  the  towering 
bluffs,  the  gorgeous  sky,  and  the  glimmering  rays  of 
the  sun,  as  it  gradually  disappeared  from  view,  pre- 
sented a  scene  worthy  the  painter's  most  skilful  art 
and  one  not  readily  effaced  from  the  memory  of  the 
observer.  Aside  from  its  poetic  name  and  natural 
attractions,  very  little  can  be  said  of  Minneiska.  It 
might  be  inferred,  from  its  present  appearance  as  seen 
from  the  river,  that  a  cyclone  had  struck  it  many  years 
ago  and  that  its  days  of  prosperity  were  long  since 
numbered.  A  stroll  through  the  streets  after  supper 
developed  nothing  to  lead  us  to  a  more  favorable  im- 
pression. 

Itfttetl)  JDag. 

PRIVATE  EESIDENCE, 

Winona,  Minnesota, 

September  Ninth. 

Our  journey  from  Minneiska  to  Winona  was  heartily 
enjoyed ;  the  most  enchanting  scenery,  and  not  a 
breath  of  wind  nor  a  ripple  to  disturb  the  even  tenor 
of  our  way.  Halted  for  luncheon  at  a  village  on  the 
east  bank  delighting  in  the  name  of  Fountain  City. 

When  within  two  miles  of  Winona  we  were  met  by 
several  canoes  and  skiffs,  bear  ing  representatives  of  the 
local  press  and  others  who  seemed  much  interested  in 
our  voyage  and  its  objects.  Our  arrival  at  this  place 
was  made  exceedingly  pleasant  by  the  numerous  and 
flattering  courtesies  of  the  citizens.  We  noted  at  the 
landing  the  national  colors,  while  the  greetings  were 
most  cordial.  A  carriage  was  waiting  to  convey  us  to 
a  private  residence  where  we  were  entertained  as  guests 
during  our  stay  in  Winona.  Lectured  in  the  evening 


SAINT  PAUL  TO  LA  CROSSE.  217 

in  the  session-room  of  the  Normal  School  in  accordance 
with  a  previous  appointment.  Was  introduced  by 
Captain  O.  B.  Gould,  a  prominent  attorney  and  one  of 
the  trustees  of  the  school. 

The  location  and  surroundings  of  this  city,  distant 
ninety-six  miles  south-east  of  Saint  Paul  by  rail,  are 
extremely  picturesque.  Standing  on  a  plateau  nine 
miles  long  by  three  broad,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  it  is  environed  by  lofty  bluffs,  the  surfaces  of 
which,  in  some  cases  from  summit  to  base,  appear  of  a 
velvety  smoothness  that  has  more  the  semblance  of  art 
than  of  nature.  The  city  is  laid  out  with  the  utmost 
regularity,  the  streets  wide  and  mostly  at  right  angles ; 
and  the  business  blocks,  compactly  built  of  brick  and 
stone,  are  generally  of  a  very  substantial  character. 
Many  of  the  private  residences  are  elegantly  designed, 
and  show  indications  of  wealth.  The  whole  appear- 
ance of  the  place  betokens  business  activity  and  pros- 
perity. The  inhabitants  number  at  present  about  fif- 
teen thousand,  and  it  is  thus  the  third  city  in  population 
in  the  State,  and  claims  to  be  the  third  in  commercial 
importance.  It  is  the  river  outlet  for  a  large  portion 
of  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin.  The  Chicago,  Milwau- 
kee and  Saint  Paul ;  the  Green  Bay,  Winona  and  Saint 
Paul,  and  other  branch-lines  of  railway,  have  their 
stations  and  termini  here.  Winona  is  the  fourth  pri- 
mary grain  market  in  the  United  States.  Fifteen 
churches,  of  all  denominations,  attest  the  moral  and 
religious  status  of  the  citizens.  Here,  also,  are  a  good 
public  library,  the  first  State  normal  school,  a  high 
school,  four  banks,  and  one  daily  and  four  weekly 
newspapers.  The  city  is  one  of  the  most  important 
lumber-distributing  points  on  the  Upper  Mississippi. 


218  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Two  grain  elevators,  seven  flour-mills,  three  large 
saw-mills,  six  carriage  and  wagon  manufactories,  and 
several  other  manufacturing  establishments  show  the 
extent  to  which  the  capital  and  industry  of  "Winona 
have  been  developed  in  a  few  years  by  its  enterprising 
inhabitants. 


MELCHIOR  HOUSE, 

Trempealeau,    Wisconsin, 

September  Tenth. 

There  was  so  much  of  interest  to  be  seen  in  and 
around  Winona,  that  we  did  not  re-embark  until  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  On  stepping  into  our  canoes 
it  was  remarked  that  the  outlook  was  not  so  favorable 
as  on  the  morning  of  the  previous  day,  when  we  em- 
barked at  Minneiska.  A  slight  breeze  from  a  south- 
erly quarter  paid  its  respects  as  we  pulled  out  from  the 
shore.  A  few  moments  later  ugly-looking  clouds  were 
observed,  portending  something  of  an  unusual  char- 
acter. Still  we  kept  on,  unmindful  of  the  threatening 
aspect  of  the  sky,  until  we  reached  an  expansion  of  the 
river  about  three  miles  below  Winona,  when,  sud- 
denly, the  wind  shifted  to  the  westward  and  swept 
across  the  stream  with  great  violence.  In  less  than 
five  minutes  we  found  ourselves  at  the  mercy  of  a  tur- 
bulent sea  —  the  surface  covered  with  white  caps,  and 
our  frail  barks  dashing  hither  and  thither,  quite  be- 
yond the  control  of  the  paddles  ;  now  riding  on  the 
topmost  wave,  and  again  sinking  in  the  troughs  which 
were  seen  on  every  hand. 

Scott  having  retired  from  the  expedition  at  Winona, 
my  brother  took  his  place  as  pilot  and  was  now  with 
me  in  the  Alice.  Naturally  possessed  of  an  excitable 


SAINT  PAUL   TO  LA  CROSSE.  219 

temperament  and  being  only  an  amateur  canoeist,  like 
myself,  his  assistance  was  of  little  avail  on  this  occa- 
sion. The  canoes  were  soon  filled  with  water  and 
nothing  but  the  light  and  buoyant  material  of  which 
they  were  constructed  prevented  their  sinking.  Like 
Richard  III.,  we  would  have  been  glad  to  exchange 
our  kingdom — not  for  a  horse — but  for  the  air-tight 
compartments  of  our  canoes  which  had  been  cast  aside 
at  Aitkin  as  an  unnecessary  encumbrance. 

In  an  attempt  to  reach  the  western  bank  we  were 
caught  by  wind  and  wave  and  driven  to  the  opposite 
or  lee  shore,  where  we  were  beset  with  snags,  sawyers 
and  driftwood,  thus  making  a  landing  impracticable. 
A  few  moments  later  the  wind  subsided,  the  water 
again  became  calm,  and  our  first  and  only  squall  on 
the  Mississippi  was  numbered  among  the  things  of  the 
past.  , 

We  disembarked  at  Trempealeau  a  little  before  sun- 
set, and  were  pleasantly  domiciled  at  the  Melchior 
House.  After  tea  we  were  most  agreeably  entertained 
in  the  parlors  of  the  hotel  by  the  family  and  friends  of 
our  hostess.  George  and  Paine  were  especially  zealous 
in  their  attentions  to  the  young  ladies  and,  notwith- 
standing the  dilapidated  appearance  of  Trempealeau, 
voted  it  among  the  most  delightful  places  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THEEE   DAYS   AT   LACROSSE. 

Trip  from  Trempealeau — La  Crosse  and  Surroundings. 

KEAKFAST  over  at  Trempealeau,  we  took 
a  hurried  walk  through  its  rickety  streets 
and  glanced  at  the  relics  of  its  former 
prosperity.     Paine  suggested  that  it  would 
make   an  appropriate  finis  to  a  volume  of 
which  Minneiska  might  fittingly  form  the  preface. 
Resumed  our  journey  at  ten  o'clock  after  ex- 
changing adieux  with    the   Melchiors,  who  hajl 
come  down  to  the  landing  to  witness  the  launch  of  our 
canoes  and  to  leave  with  us  their  best  wishes  for  a  safe 
and  pleasant  voyage  to  the  Gulf. 

Nothing  could  be  more  delightful  than  our  trip 
from  Trempealeau  to  La  Crosse.  A  clear  sky,  a  genial 
atmosphere,  and  a  strong  current,  made  navigation  a 
pleasure  rather  than  a  burden,  as  had  been  the  case  on 
many  preceding  days.  Everything  now  appeared 
different.  Even  the  face  of  nature  seemed  changed. 
In  place  of  the  majestic  bluffs,  .the  banks  here  sloped 
gradually  down  to  the  water's  edge,  covered  with  va- 
rious trees  enriched  by  the  variegated  hues  of  autumn. 
(220) 


THREE  DAYS  AT  LA  CROSSE.  221 

So  pleasantly  had  the  time  passed  that  it  was  with 
something  of  surprise  we  discerned  at  one  o'clock 
the  church  spires  of  La  Crosse.  Half  an  hour  later  our 
canoes  touched  the  boat-house  landing  and  we  were 
soon  registered  and  assigned  to  rooms  at  the  Commer- 
cial Hotel. 

Among  the  first  to  greet  us  at  the  "Commercial "  was 
Mr.  Pearce  Giles,  of  Philadelphia,  an  old  acquaintance 
and  friend,  who  had  assisted  in  the  organization  of  my 
expedition  at  Saint  Paul,  before  starting  for  the  head 
waters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  who  was  now  sojourning 
for  a  few  days  at  La  Crosse. 

The  name  of  this  ambitious  young  city  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  the  invigorating  game  of  "Lu  Crosse," 
the  favorite  sport  of  the  Indians  on  the  level  prairie 
upon  which  the  city  now  stands.  To  indulge  in  their 
athletic  matches,  it  is  recorded  that  they  assembled 
here  in  large  numbers  annually — the  plain  being  con- 
veniently adapted  for  the  purpose — and  the  first  white 
settler,  Nathan  Myrick,  became  so  enthusiastic  an  ad- 
mirer of  the  exciting  game,  that  he  named  the  spot  on 
which  his  solitary  cabin  was  built,  La  Crosse,  and 
hence  the  name  of  the  Indian  sport  is  perpetuated  in 
that  of  the  city. 

La  Crosse  claims,  and  with  good  grace,  to  be  the 
second  city  in  commercial  and  manufacturing  impor- 
tance in  the  State  of  Wisconsin — Milwaukee,  of  course, 
ranking  first.  The  prairie  land  on  which  it  is  built  is 
seven  miles  in  length  by  two  and  a  half  in  breadth,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River.  The  distance 
below  Saint  Paul  is  one  hundred  and  ninety -seven  miles. 
By  railway,  La  Crosse  is  only  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
nine  miles  from  the  latter  city,  and  one  hundred  and 


222  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

ninety-six  from  Milwaukee.  The  Black  and  La 
Crosse  rivers  fall  into  the  Mississippi  at  this  point, 
the  former  a  most  important  lumbering  stream.  The 
growth  and  development  of  La  Crosse,  in  a  very  few 
years,  are  in  truth  no  less  amazing  than  creditable  to 
its  enterprising  pioneers  and  citizens.  The  first  settler, 
Myrick,  landed  here  in  November,  1841,  less  than  fifty 
years  ago,  with  a  boat-load  of  goods  and  notions  from 
Prairie  du  Chien,  and  his  laudable  enterprise  was  to 
trade  the  contents  of  his  boat  with  the  red  men  for 
their  furs.  In  the  course  of  ten  years  Myrick's  In- 
dian trading-post  had  invited  other  settlers  to  it,  and  it 
became  an  incorporated  town.  In  five  years  more, 
1856,  the  town  had  attained  sufficient  size  and  impor- 
tance to  be  made  a  city.  To-day  it  has  a  population 
of  over  twenty  thousand  of  as  live,  go-ahead  citizens  as 
are  to  be  found  in  the  valley  of  the  Great  River.  The 
geographical  location  of  this  city  is  doubtless  one  of  the 
secrets  of  its  rapid  progress  and  present  flourishing  con- 
dition. The  products  of  one  of  the  finest  agricultural 
states  in  the  Union,  together  with  the  vast  supplies 
coming  in  from  Minnesota  and  Northern  Iowa,  give 
to  La  Crosse  immense  advantages,  occupying  as  it  does, 
a  commanding  position  on  the  river  for  attracting  com- 
mercial relations  by  virtue  of  its  great  facilities  of 
transportation.  Besides  numerous  lines  of  railway 
centring  here,  the  city  has  access  to  that  grand  high- 
way, the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,  embracing 
over  sixteen  thousand  miles  of  navigable  rivers.  A 
stretch  of  over  two  thousand  miles  of  water-way  from 
Saint  Anthony's  Falls  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  affords 
the  cheapest  kind  of  transportation,  of  the  benefits  of 
which  La  Crosse  avails  itself  to  a  very  large  extent, 


THREE  DAYS  AT  LA  CROSSE.  223 

and  hence,  mainly,  its  growth  in  population  and  in 
wealth. 

The  commerce  and  manufactures  of  a  city  depend 
largely  upon  the  resources  of  the  State  in  which  it  is 
situated.  Wisconsin  is  one  of  the  richest  agricultural 
states  in  America.  It  is  larger  than  the  states  of  New 
York,  Connecticut  and  Rhode  Island  combined,  and 
in  fertility  of  soil  surpasses  them.  A  considerable 
percentage  of  the  wheat  crop  of  the  United  States  is 
grown  in  this  province.  Its  immense  cornfields,  com- 
prising several  million  acres,  are  another  source  of 
wealth.  The  hay-producing  area  is  about  twice  as 
large  as  the  State  of  Iowa,  and  timber  of  the  most 
valuable  manufacturing  descriptions  is  plentiful  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  State.  Twenty  million  pounds  of 
butter  and  fifteen  million  pounds  of  cheese  are  annually 
manufactured  in  Wisconsin,  much  of  which  is  shipped 
to  eastern  markets  and  from  them  reshipped  to  the 
markets  of  the  civilized  world.  The  soil  and  climate 
of  this  State  are  especially  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
potatoes,  one  of  the  most  profitable  crops  raised  in  the 
country.  The  growth  of  flax  is  another  leading  in- 
dustry of  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  the  yield  being  over 
twenty  million  pounds  a  year.  Thus,  in  agricultural 
resources  the  "Badger"  State  possesses  every  advan- 
tage necessary  for  developing  great  commercial  and 
manufacturing  cities,  and  the  favorable  position  of 
La  Crosse  eminently  fits  it  for  reaping  the  full  bene- 
fit of  the  conditions  provided  by  generous  Nature. 

La  Crosse  is  a  port  of  entry  and  ranks  third  on  the 
Mississippi  River,  being  exceeded  in  the  number 
of  vessels  enrolled  only  by  New  Orleans  and  Saint 
Louis.  The  wholesale  trade  of  La  Crosse  is  in  a 


224  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

flourishing  condition  and  includes  large  receipts  and 
shipments  of  grain  and  immense  supplies  of  lumber. 
Hardware,  boots  and  shoes,  clothing,  furniture  and 
other  necessaries  of  life  are  now  also  staples  of  the 
wholesale  trade.  In  fact,  from  all  we  could  learn 
from  inquiry  on  the  spot,  the  commerce  of  La  Crosse  is 
rapidly  growing  under  the  skilful  management  of  its 
enterprising  merchants,  its  annual  transactions  reach- 
ing about  five  million  dollars.  The  retail  trade  is  in  a 
no  less  satisfactory  condition,  and  the  growth  of  this 
city  in  population  and  wealth  is  a  subject  of  remark 
by  all  occasional  visitors. 

The  manufactures  of  La  Crosse  are  pointed  to  with 
justifiable  pride  by  its  citizens  and  promise  great 
things  in  the  near  future.  The  wool  manufactories 
are  thirteen  in  number  and  of  an  extensive  character. 
Iron  manufactories,  foundries  and  machine-shops  are 
numerous,  and  the  out-put  of  this  class  of  industries  is 
of  the  most  varied  description.  Engines  and  boilers 
of  every  size  are  built  here,  and  architectural  iron  prod- 
ucts and  stoves  of  all  kinds  are  produced  in  great 
abundance,  thus  illustrating  the  genius,  skill  and 
enterprise  embarked  in  the  iron  business  in  this  busy 
city.  The  forests  of  Michigan,  Wisconsin  and  Minne- 
sota are  practically  inexhaustible,  and  it  is  claimed  that 
no  city  in  the  Northwest  is  more  advantageously 
situated  in  regard  to  lumber  resources  than  La  Crosse. 
Its  position  is  such  as  to  enable  it  to  draw  upon  any 
source  of  supply  through  the  far-reaching  Mississippi 
River  and  its  tributaries.  The  mills  of  La  Crosse 
have  a  combined  capacity  of  two  hundred  million  feet, 
and  consume,  distribute  and  export  not  less  than  five 
hundred  million  feet  of  lumber  annually.  The  aggre- 


THREE  DA YS  AT  LA  CROSSE.  225 

gate  wealth  contributed  to  the  city  by  lumber  alone 
amounts  to  many  millions  of  dollars  per  year. 

The  rapid  development  of  the  Northwest  has  largely 
increased  the  growth  and  importance  of  La  Crosse 
within  the  past  few  years,  and  has  assured  its  future 
as  a  commercial  and  manufacturing  centre.  It  has 
become  the  base  of  supply  for  an  extensive  range  of 
territory  in  the  matter  of  lumber,  and  in  everything 
that  contributes  to  the  growth  of  a  city  is  annually 
making  gains.  It  will  afford  some  idea  of  the  dimen- 
sions of  the  city  to  say  that  it  has  about  thirty  miles 
of  graded  streets^  and  forty-five  miles  of  sidewalks. 
The  fire  department  and  the  police  force  rank  at  a 
high  standard  of  efficiency.  Electric  light  for  the 
streets  and  stores  is  furnished  by  the  Brush  Electric 
Light  Company,  which  has  erected  four  towers,  each 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  nine  masts,  and 
the  streets  at  night  are  consequently  well  illuminated. 
The  public  schools  are  eleven  in  number  in  addition 
to  the  High  School,  erected  in  1878,  at  a  cost  of  twenty- 
six  thousand  dollars.  Two  English,  one  German  and 
two  Norwegian  newspapers  keep  the  citizens  posted 
in  State  and  national  politics  and  the  general  news  of 
the  locality.  Twenty-five  churches  administer  to  the 
religious  requirements  of  the  various  denominations 
and  nationalities,  some  of  them  handsome  specimens 
of  church  architecture.  The  Public  Library  contains 
about  eight  thousand  volumes  adapted  to  the  mixed 
population.  La  Crosse,  in  short,  is  a  rapidly  improv- 
ing city,  and  we  think  is  destined  to  become  in  a  few 
years  prominent  in  population  and  wealth,  and  an 
important  factor  in  the  commerce  and  manufactures  of 
the  Nation. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

LA   CROSSE  TO   DUBUQUE. 

ftftn-fiftl) 


VICTORY  HOUSE, 

Victory,    Wisconsin, 

September  14,  1881. 

'HILE  at  La  Crosse  it  was  decided  that 
our  little  party  should  be  reduced  to  a 
more  economical  basis,  inasmuch  as  there 
was  little  of  an  exploratory  character  on 
the  Lower  Mississippi,  and  since  the  duties 
devolving  upon  voyagenrs  in  a  wild  country 
could  now  be  readily  dispensed  with.  Acting 
upon  this  decision,  Paine  rather  reluctantly  sur- 
rendered his  commission  as  captain  of  the  Itasca*  and 
joined  me  in  the  Alice.  The  city  press  having  an- 
nounced the  hour  of  our  departure,  many  citizens 
had  assembled  at  the  landing  to  witness  the  launch, 
which  was  made  at  eight  o'clock,  my  friend,  Pearce 
Giles,  giving  us  the  "send-off." 

It  was  proposed,  on  setting  out  in  the  morning,  to 
make  De  Soto  the  evening  destination,  but  a  heavy 
thunder-storm,  which  had  been  gathering  throughout 
the  afternoon,  burst  at  five  o'clock  and  drove  us  ashore 

*  This  canoe  was  subsequently  ordered  to  Saint  Louis  and  pre- 
sented to  the  Missouri  Historical  Society. 
(226) 


LA  CHOSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  227 

at  Victory.  This  remnant  of  by-gone  days  might  very 
appropriately  be  classed  with  the  Alma,  Minneiska, 
Trempealeau  series,  which,  but  for  the  circumstance 
that  it  stands  upon  the  banks  of  the  Father  of  Waters, 
would  be  a  poor  "  Victory  "  indeed.  One  of  the 
shining  lights  of  this  place,  happening  to  overhear  a 
conversation  between  Paine  and  myself,  concerning 
the  town  of  De  Soto,  situated  on  the  river  five  miles 
below,  ventured  to  inquire  if  in  our  opinion  the  "  De 
Sota  "  after  whom  the  town  was  called,  was  any 
relation  of  "  Minnie  Sota,"  the  girl  after  whom  he 
understood  the  adjoining  State  was  named  ! 

Nothing  of  an  unusual  character  in  the  scenery  or  of 
especial  interest  as  to  incident  was  noted  in  the  journey 
from  La  Crosse  to  Victory.  A  halt  was  made  at  one 
o'clock  for  dinner,  which  we  had  at  a  farm-house  on 
the  right  bank,  near  the  boundary  line  between  Min- 
nesota and  Iowa.  This  was  our  last  meal  in  the  for- 
mer State. 


J'tftu-sktl) 

TKEMONT  HOUSE. 

Prairie  du  Chien,  Wisconsin, 

September  Fifteenth. 

On  retiring  to  our  rooms  the  previous  evening,  it 
was  the  intention  to  get  into  our  canoes  at  seven 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  but  we  were  detained  at  Victory 
by  rain  until  after  eight,  when,  taking  advantage  of 
a  lull  in  the  storm,  we  pushed  off,  finding  a  brisk 
current,  wind  down  stream  and  everything  favorable 
until  we  reached  Lansing,  when  more  rain  fell,  and 
continued  to  fall  throughout  the  day.  Stopped 
at  a  farm-house  on  the  Iowa  side  for  dinner,  our 


228  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

first  meal  in  the  Prairie  State.  Made  short  halts  at 
De  Soto,  Lansing,  and  Harpers. 

Wind,  rain,  a  swollen  stream  and  approaching 
darkness  rendered  our  landing  at  Prairie  du  Chieu 
both  difficult  and  dangerous.  We  were  cautioned  by 
persons  on  the  shore  not  to  attempt  to  pass  under  the 
low  pontoon-like  railway  bridge  which  crosses  the 
river  at  this  point,  but  the  warning  came  too  late,  as 
the  brisk  current  and  suction  of  the  bridge  trellis-work 
had  placed  the  canoe  beyond  our  control,"  and  we 
were  unable  to  do  more  than  guide  it  through  the 
network  of  huge  posts  which  constitute  its  foundation 
and  support.  We  succeeded  ultimately  in  getting  out 
of  the  trap  in  which  we  temporarily  found  ourselves, 
much  to  our  own  relief  and  the  apparent  gratification  of 
the  anxious  spectators  on  the  shore. 

On  the  seventeenth  of  June,  1673,  Marquette  and 
Joliet,  the  former  a  Jesuit  missionary,  reached  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Wisconsin  with  the  Mississippi,  a  little  above 
which,Prairiedu  Chien  stands  to-day.  Seven  years  later, 
in  1680,  Father  Hennepin  and  M.  Dugay  explored  the 
Mississippi  from  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  northward, 
and  on  ascending  and  descending  the  river  passed 
the  site  of  the  present  town.  Hennepin  claimed  at 
this  time  to  have  reached  the  head-waters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  also  to  have  explored  it  to  its  mouth,  but 
his  narrative  bears  evidence  of  great  exaggeration,  and 
procured  for  him,  with  the  French,  the  title  of  "  the 
great  falsifier."  Yet  his  achievement  was  a  splendid 
one,  with  which  he  might  well  have  been  satisfied. 
He  passed  twice  the  entire  distance  between  the  Falls 
of  Saint  Anthony  and  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas,  in 
all  nearly  three  thousand  miles,  which  voyage  having 


LA  CKOSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  229 

been  accomplished  in  a  canoe  on  an  unknown  and 
treacherous  river,  flowing  through  an  unexplored  wil- 
derness, was  truly  something  to  be  proud  of. 

There  is  a  tolerably  well  authenticated  tradition  that 
Jesuit  missionaries  had  visited  the  country  during  the 
twenty  years  previous  to  Marquette's  expedition,  and 
had  established  a  number  of  missions  among  the 
Indians  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  At  an  early  day  a 
Jesuit  mission  was  established  on  the  present  site  of 
Prairie  du  Chien,  and  later  it  became  a  French  trad- 
ing-post. But  Prairie  du  Chien  and  the  surrounding 
country  have  an  unwritten  history  extending  back  into 
the  remote  past,  only  a  few  traces  of  which  still 
remain.  Before  the  invasion  of  the  white  race  it  was 
the  home  of  the  Kickapoos  and  other  tribes  of  Indians. 
Going  back  still  farther  into  the  dim  past,  the  unknown 
race  designated  as  Mound-Builders  seem  to  have  made 
this  a  favorite  locality.  In  Crawford  County,  more 
than  in  any  other  part  of  Wisconsin,  are  found  traces  of 
their  work.  The  antiquity  of  these  mounds  is  un- 
doubtedly remote,  for  frequently  what  is  known  as  the 
"virgin  forest"  is  found  growing  upon  them. 

The  mounds  found  in  Crawford  County  are  of  vari- 
ous forms  and  sizes.  One  of  the  largest  and  highest 
existed  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  was  leveled  in  order  to1 
furnish  a  site  for  Fort  Crawford.  It  was  about  twenty 
feet  in  height,  with  a  base  of  two  hundred  feet.  An- 
other mound  of  similar  form  and  dimensions  stood 
within  the  old  fort  of  which  Crawford  was  the  successor. 
The  circular  form  is  the  most  common  of  these  tumuli, 
though  there  are  many  of  different  shapes.  Some  are 
built  like  walls  or  breastworks,  with  open  spaces  like 

gates.     Others  take  the  form  of  a  serpent ;  still  others 
13 


230  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

that  of  a  bird  or  beast ;  while  some  fe\v  mounds  resem- 
ble a  man  lying  on  his  face.  These  latter  are  from 
three  to  four  feet  high.  On  the  shores  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Wisconsin,  on  the  beach  lands  and  highest 
peaks  of  the  bluffs,  these  mounds  are,  or  rather  were, 
very  numerous,  and  easily  discernible  from  the  river. 

Some  of  the  mounds  of  Prairie  du  Chien  present  a 
different  soil  from  that  on  which  they  are  built,  none 
like  it  having  been  discovered  within  several  miles, 
thus  indicating  that  the  soil  must  have  been  brought 
from  a  considerable  distance.  In  no  instance  is  there 
the  appearance  of  the  earth  of  which  they  are  com- 
posed having  been  dug  from  the  side  of,  or  even  near 
them.  Sometimes  the  spot  on  which  the  mound 
stands  has  a  natural  elevation.  One  such,  on  the 
south-west  angle  of  Prairie  du  Chicn,  is  itself  about 
ten  feet  high,  while  the  hillock  which  it  occupies 
gives  it  the  appearance  of  being  at  least  twice  that 
height.  From  the  top  of  this  mound  an  extensive 
view  may  be  obtained  of  the  low  bottom-lands  and 
lakes  which  lie  between  the  channels  of  the  \Arisconsin 
and  Mississippi  rivers,  giving  it  the  appearance  of 
having  been  a  watch-tower.  It  is  scarcely  probable, 
however,  that  they  were  all  military  defences.  The 
supposition  is  more  plausible  that  many  of  them  were 
religious  symbols,  the  mounds  serving,  perhaps,  as 
altars.  There  is  no  positive  evidence  that  they  were 
built  as  tombs  for  the  dead ;  for,  though  human  re- 
mains have  been  found  in  some  of  them,  these  remains 
may  have  been  deposited  at  later  periods,  and  others 
have  not  contained  any. 

But  the  mounds  are  fast  disappearing  before  the 
march  of  civilization.  A  utilitarian  age  and  people 


LA  CROSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  231 

are  demolishing  them  with  the  plow,  the  pick  and  the 
spade,  and  already  a  majority  have  disappeared.  The 
antiquarian  of  the  future  will  sigh  in  vain  for  these 
sole  relics  of  an  unknown  and  a  mysterious  people. 
However,  in  some  few  instances,  they  are  being  pre- 
served with  that  care  to  which  their  antiquity  entitles 
them. 

Prairie  du  Chien,  the  county-seat  of  Crawford 
County,  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, on  a  level  plain  or  prairie  about  nine  miles  long 
and  between  one  and  two  miles  wide.  This  prairie 
is  bounded  on  the  east  by  high,  rocky  bluffs,  with 
scattered  clumps  of  trees,  while  its  western  border  is 
washed  by  the  Mississippi.  Its  name  was  derived 
from  that  of  an  Indian  chief  who  once  resided  there, 
known  as  Le  Chien,  or  The  Dog ;  hence  Prairie  du 
Chien,  or  The  Dog  Prairie.  It  was  one  of  the  oldest 
of  the  French  trading-posts,  but  the  first  permanent 
settlement  was  located  there  in  1783.  Gautier  de 
Vorville,  Michael  Brisbois,  and  Captain  Fisher  were 
among  the  traders  late  in  the  last  and  early  in  the 
present  century,  and  all  of  them  have  left  descendants. 
Fisher  was  of  Scotch  origin,  and  carried  on  an  exten- 
sive trade  with  the  Indians.  In  1815  he  emigrated  to 
more  remote  regions  on  the  Red  River  of  the  North, 
but  died  in  Prairie  du  Chien  in  1827. 

In  1814,  the  British  sent  a  party  of  Indians,  com- 
posed of  Sioux,  Menomonies,  and  Winnebagos,  under 
the  command  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  William  McKay, 
to  capture  Prairie  du  Chien  from  the  Americans. 
After  a  four  days'  siege  the  fort  surrendered,  and  the 
report  of  a  great  victory  was  carried  by  Captain 
Rolette  to  Mackinaw.  Lanre  numbers  thronged  the 


232  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

shores  and  inquired  of  the  captain  the  news.  "  A 
great  battle — a  sanguinary  contest,"  responded  Rolette, 
with  an  air  of  great  solemnity  and  importance.  "  How 
many  were  killed?"  "None."  "What  a  bloody 
contest ! "  vociferated  the  crowd,  as  they  escorted  the 
hero  from  the  boat  to  the  garrison.  The  following  year, 
at  the  conclusion  of  peace,  the  post  was  evacuated. 

Crawford  County  was  established  in  1818,  while  the 
country  was  still  embraced  in  the  territory  of  Michigan. 
At  that  early  period  it  extended  from  the  Wisconsin 
River  on  the  south  to  the  Buffalo  River  on  the  north, 
comprising  an  area  now  divided  into  ten  or  more 
counties. 

Like  many  of  its  neighbors  up  and  down  the  river, 
Prairie  du  Chien  had  great  expectations  in  its  youth. 
It  was  confident  of  becoming  the  chief  town  of  the 
Mississippi.  It  is  situated  five  hundred  and  forty  miles 
north  of  Saint  Louis,  in  the  midst  of  a  productive  agri- 
cultural and  mineral  region.  But  though  one  or  more 
railroads  touch  it,  the  great  through-lines  of  the  con- 
tinent passed  it  by ;  and  for  that,  and  other  reasons, 
more  or  less  difficult  of  explanation,  but  which  act  as  a 
sort  of  Providence  in  shaping  the  ends  of  rough- 
hewn  cities,  it  remains  scarcely  more  than  a  town,  hav- 
ing but  about  three  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is, 
however,  an  important  local  shipping-post,  and  has  a 
number  of  manufactories.  Saint  John's  College  and 
Saint  Mary's  Female  Institute  are  located  here,  under 
control  of  the  Catholic  Church. 

Just  above  Prairie  du  Chien  is  the  site  of  Fort 
Crawford,  near  the  town  of  Saint  Fiolle,  which  in  1846 
was  the  larger  of  the  two,  but  which  has  now  altogether 
disappeared  from  the  map.  Prairie  du  Chien  is  a  pretty 


LA  CROSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  233 

town,  being  well  built,  with  wide  streets  and  an 
abundance  of  shade  ;  and  there  is  an  air  of  thrift  and 
enterprise  about  its  inhabitants  which  impress  the 
stranger.  As  in  most  other  towns  of  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi, its  people  are  made  up  largely  of  New  Eng- 
landers  and  New  Yorkers;  and  wherever  they  are 
found,  prosperity  is  sure  to  follow  in  their  track. 
Thus,  though  Prairie  du  Chien  will  probably  never 
become  a  large  city,  it  will  hold  its  own  among  the 
neighboring  towns  and  cities  up  and  down  the  river, 
and  obtain  a  due  share  of  the  influx  of  immigration 
into  this  section  of  the  country. 

.f  ifto-SttKntf)  £)aj3. 

JEFFERSON  HOTEL, 

Guttenberg,     Iowa, 

Sept.  Sixteenth. 

Lecture  appointments  at  Davenport  and  other  points 
below  Dubuque  made  it  imperative  that  we  should 
launch  our  canoe  at  a  seasonable  hour  in  the  morning, 
though  much  against  inclination,  for  the  storm  which 
opened  the  day  before  was  still  in  progress.  Halted 
a  few  moments  at  McGregor,  and  took  dinner  at  the 
Mississippi  House,  Clayton,  both  of  which  towns  are 
in  Iowa.  A  glance  through  their  streets  reminded  us 
very  forcibly  of  the  "  waning  glory "  of  Miuneiska, 
Trempealeau  and  Victory. 

Finding  the  wind  from  the  westward  we  kept  close 
to  the  Iowa  shore  all  day.  Reached  Guttenberg  at 
five  o'clock  and  housed  our  canoe  in  the  Diamond  Jo 
freight-house.  Our  clothing  was  again  thoroughly 
soaked  and  no  changes  at  hand. 

Gutteuberg,   the  county-seat   of    Clayton   County, 


234  DOWN  THE  CHEAT  RIVER. 

Iowa,  is  twenty-six  miles  below  Prairie  du  Chien,  and 
two  hundred  and  eighty-one  south  of  Saint  Paul.  It 
is  the  largest  town  in  the  county  and  the  river- 
landing  for  an  extensive  section  of  country.  It  has 
a  population  of  about  fifteen  hundred  —  nearly  all 
Germans. 

The  traveler  who  seeks  to  penetrate  the  region  we.«t 
of  Guttenberg  will  first  encounter  nature  in  its  rough 
and  primitive  majesty.  He  ascends  a  gigantic  bluff, 
step  by  step,  until  he  attains  a  mountain  elevation. 
Then,  at  his  feet,  he  beholds  the  Mississippi,  dotted 
with  lovely  islands  and  sparkling  in  the  sunlight  as  it 
rolls  its  flood  of  waters  toward  the  sea.  Before  him 
spreads  the  forest  as  it  appeared  a  hundred  years  ago, 
beautiful  in  its  grandeur.  He  journeys  through  it,  and 
his  eyes  are  greeted  by  smiling  farms  as  he  looks  west- 
ward from  the  hill-tops.  The  country  grows  less 
rugged  as  he  advances,  until,  five  miles  from  Gutten- 
berg, he  enters  a  rolling  prairie,  extending  far  and 
wide  on  either  hand,  to  within  three  miles  of  Elkader. 
This  prairie  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  State,  and  is 
broken  into  every  variety  of  hill  and  dale.  It  is 
covered  with  farms,  most  of  them  under  the  very 
highest  state  of  cultivation. 


PACIFIC  HOUSE, 

Dubuque,     Iowa, 

Sept.  Seventeenth. 

We  paddled  away  from  Guttenberg  at  eight  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  Weather  still  unsettled  and  in  keep- 
ing with  that  which  followed  the  launching  of  our 
canoes  at  Saint  Paul,  with  the  exception  of  two  or 


LA  CROSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  £35 

three  days.  We  learned  from  river-men  that  these 
September  rains  are  a  well-known  characteristic  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  are  looked  for  annually. 

Several  attempts  were  made  to  arrange  for  dinner 
between  twelve  and  one  o'clock  at  farm-houses  on  the 
Iowa  side,  but  the  stupid  foreigners  whom  we 
encountered  declined  to  accommodate,  seeming  to 
regard  us  with  suspicion.  Our  perseverance  was  ulti- 
mately rewarded  with  an  excellent  dinner  at  Specht's 
Ferry,  thirty  miles  below  Guttenberg. 

The  afternoon  was  the  finest  we  had  chronicled  in 
many  days  and  afforded  us  a  splendid  opportunity  to 
study  scenery  and  other  objects  of  interest  in  our  "  line 
of  march." 

The  geologist,  mineralogist  or  artist  will  find  in  the 
tour  from  Prairie  dti  Cliien  to  Dubuque  a  most  pro- 
ductive field  for  research,  and  one  possessing  more 
beauty  of  scenery  and  grandeur  than  any  other  sec- 
tion of  the  Mississippi  below  Winona.  His  attention 
will  be  arrested  by  the  peculiar  outline  of  hills  that 
limit  the  vision  on  either  side  of  the  river,  and  the 
perpendicular  walls  of  rock  that  rise  from  the  grassy 
slope  or  green  copsewood  in  massive  cliffs,  which 
terrace  the  heights  as  with  continuous  natural  battle- 
ments. This  scenery  not  only  characterizes  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi,  but  many  of  its  Iowa  and  Wisconsin 
tributaries.  At  the  base  of  the  cliffs  we  often  noted 
cool,  clear,  and  copious  springs,  which  not  unfrequently 
give  rise  to  small  streams  containing  an  abundance  of 
delicious  trout.  The  sportsman  will  find  the  rivers  of 
this  region  well  stocked  with  pike,  carp,  bass,  cat-fish, 
pickerel  and  sun-fish,  while  the  prairies  abound  in 
grouse,  partridges  and  pheasants. 


236  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Along  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  the  surface  is 
broken  and  too  uneven  for  farming  purposes,  but 
affords  excellent  pasturage,  while  from  the  valleys  and 
bottoms  are  gathered  hay  and  grain  for  winter  fodder, 
leaving  little  to  be  desired  by  the  shepherd  and  stock- 
raiser.  Further  back  from  the  river  on  the  Iowa  side 
are  found  undulating  prairies,  interspersed  with  open 
groves  of  timber,  watered  with  pebbly  or  rock-bedded 
streams,  pure  and  transparent ;  hills  of  moderate  eleva- 
tion and  gentle  slope,  with  here  and  there  small  lakes 
and  ponds,  some  skirted  with  timber,  and  others  sur- 
rounded by  the  greensward  of  the  open  prairie. 

Less  than  forty  years  have  elapsed  since  this  section 
was  in  full  possession  of  the  Winnebago  Indians.  How 
changed  the  scene!  Their  villages,  their  hunting- 
grounds  and  the  unbroken  forests  have  disappeared. 
The  palefaces  came  among  them,  and  the  axe  of  the 
woodman  broke  the  solitude  of  ages  and  warned  them 
of  an  impending  fate.  No  longer  shall  these  groves 
and  plains  be  the  hunting-ground  of  the  red  man ;  no 
longer  the  deep  ravines  serve  as  lurking-places  for 
the  wily  foe,  nor  the  bluff-side  as  a  battle-field  between 
contending  tribes.  No  longer 

"  With  tawny  limb, 

And  belt  and  beads  in  sunlight  glistening, 
Does  the  savage  urge  his  skiff  like 
A  wild  bird  on  the  wing." 

Their  struggle  against  the  onward  march  of  civiliza- 
tion was  in  vain,  and 

"Where  prowled  the  wolf  and  where  the  hunter  roved, 
Faith  raised  her  altars  to  the  God  she  loved." 

Our  journey  was   uninterrupted   until   about  four 


LA  CHOSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  239 

o'clock,  when  we  ran  into  the  log-boom  of  a  saw-mill 
just  above  Dubuque.  A  long  "pocket"  had  been 
constructed  for  the  reception  of  logs,  and  into  this  we 
slipped  before  realizing  that,  like  all  well-ordered 
pockets,  there  was  but  one  way  out  of  it.  We  had,  in 
brief,  after  discovering  our  dilemma,  indulged  the  hope 
that  as,  in  a  few  parallel  cases  still  preserved  in  memory, 
there  might  be  a  hole  in  this  rather  unwelcome  Missis- 
sippi saw-mill-log-boom  pocket,  and  so  glided  down 
towards  the  mill.  We  recalled  our  Winona  adventure, 
but  that  was  a  squall,  while  this  affair  was  certainly  a 
boom,  and  if  there  is  anything  in  a  name,  our  present 
unfavorable  lookout  was  likely  to  result  to  our  advan- 
tage. Proximity  to  the  inevitable  saw-mill  finally 
brought  our  musings  to  an  end,  and  our  canoe  to  a 
standstill,  for  we  had  run  into  a  nest  of  two  or  three 
thousand  logs,  and  must  either  retreat  by  the  route  we 
had  entered  or  lift  the  canoe  over  the  boom,  by  no 
means  an  easy  matter,  considering  that  there  was  noth- 
ing but  a  narrow  pole  to  stand  on  while  we  were 
making  the  transfer,  and  that  floating  on  the  surface 
of  the  water.  Running  the  canoe  alongside  the  boom, 
Paine  stepped  out  upon  the  latter,  and  balancing  him- 
self with  his  double  paddle,  gave  me  a  hand,  and  in  a 
moment  more  I  was  beside  him.  We  then  hoisted  the 
canoe  over  and  launched  it  on  the  other  side.  It  is  per- 
haps needless  to  add  that  we  resolved  to  give  saw- 
mills and  their  booms  a  wide  berth  in  future. 

The  citizens  of  Dubuque  claim  for  their  city  the 
distinctive  title  of  "Metropolis  of  Iowa."  In  what 
measure  the  claim  is  justified  we  must  leave  to  the 
other  enterprising  and  flourishing  cities  of  this  State 
to  determine. 


240  DOWN  THE  GEE  AT  EIVER. 

Up  to  the  year  1803,  the  French  owned  an  immense 
region  west  of  the  Mississippi,  which  in  that  year 
became  part  of  the  public  domain  of  the  United  States 
by  purchase.  This  region  had  previously  belonged  to 
Spain,  and  during  the  tenure  of  the  Spaniards,  namely 
in  1778,  a  young  Canadian  trader,  named  Julien 
Dubuque,  obtained  the  privilege  of  working  the  lead 
mines  which  are  situated  within  the  limits  of  the 
present  city.  This  privilege  was  obtained  from  the 
Indians,  and  in  1806,  Dubuque  and  his  companions 
applied  to  the  United  States  Government  to  have  their 
claim  established  as  a  Spanish  grant,  on  the  ground 
that  the  governor  of  Louisiana  had  confirmed,  in 
1796,  the  Indian  permission  given  eight  years  before. 
In  1810,  Dubuque  died;  but  his  heirs-at-law  con- 
tinued to  press  their  claim,  and  the  "Dubuque  claim 
case  "  was  legislated  upon  in  Congress  and  litigated  in 
the  courts  for  nearly  fifty  years,  until,  in  1853,  it  was 
finally  settled  adversely  to  the  claimants. 

In  the  year  1832,  the  Black  Hawk  War  was  closed, 
and  a  treaty  extinguished  the  title  of  the  Indians  to 
the  lands  which  now  form  the  eastern  part  of  the  State 
of  Iowa.  A  settlement  was  soon  made  by  a  few 
American  immigrants  and  their  families ;  others  shortly 
followed,  and  Dubuque  became  in  two  years  a  busy 
mining  village,  having  received  its  name  by  vote  at  a 
public  meeting  of  the  settlers. 

Iowa  became  a  Territory  in  1838,  Dubuque  having 
been  incorporated  as  a  village  in  the  previous  year.  In 
1840  the  population  of  the  village  was  less  than  one 
thousand.  The  first  newspaper  published  in  the  Ter- 
ritory was  started  in  1836,  under  the  title  of  The 
Dubuque  Visitor.  In  1840  a  movement  was  made  to 


LA   CROSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  241 

incorporate  Dubuque  as  a  city,  and  in  the  spring  of 
1841  this  was  effected  by  the  election  of  a  mayor  and 
aldermen  to  manage  the  city  affairs. 

The  lead-mining  operations  were  prosperous,  and 
the  foundation  of  a  flourishing  city  had  been  laid  by 
this  industry.  In  December,  1847,  Iowa  became  a 
State,  and  the  population  of  Dubuque  had  now  increased 
to  over  three  thousand.  The  city  had  become  an  im- 
portant receiving  point,  but  Galena  was  still  its  suc- 
cessful rival  for  the  up-river  commerce.  It  required 
another  decade  to  secure  the  success  which  has  been 
achieved  by  Dubuque. 

The  emigration  from  the  Eastern  States  to  Iowa  in 
1850,  and  for  several  years  afterward,  largely  added 
to  the  population  of  this  city.  Improvement  of  the 
streets  and  business  blocks  followed,  with  large  school- 
buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  six  hundred  pupils 
each;  and,  during  the  five  years  preceding  1856, 
Dubuque  made  more  progress  than  it  had  done  in  the 
previous  fifteen  years.  During  this  latter  year  the 
population  had  grown  to  nearly  sixteen  thousand.  In 
1857  and  1858  the  city  met  with  some  reverses  owing, 
to  the  general  financial  revulsion;  but  in  1859  busi- 
ness revived,  immigration  from  the  East  was  resumed, 
and  (he  business  men  of  Dubuque  commenced  earnest 
work  for  the  welfare  of  their  promising  city.  Fine 
blocks  of  buildings  and  commodious  public  halls  were 
erected,  and  the  General  Government  began  the  con- 
struction of  the  Custom  House  and  Post-Office.  From 
I860  ti>  1870,  the  whole  country  was  convulsed  by  the 
Civil  War  and  its  results.  Although  far  removed 
from  the  scenes  of  military  conflicts,  Dubuque  City  and 
County  sent  three  companies  of  volunteers  to  battle 


242  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

against  rebellion,  besides  many  who  enlisted  in  the 
regular  army.  Within  a  year  after  the  close  of  the 
war,  the  city  grew  more  rapidly;  trade,  manufactures 
and  public  improvements  increased,  and  more  houses, 
schools  and  churches  were  built. 

In  1870  the  population  of  Dubuque  had  increased 
to  over  eighteen  thousand.  A  street  railway  was  added 
to  the  facilities  for  passenger  transit;  and  steady 
progress  made  it  all  that  pertains  to  a  healthy  munici- 
pal growth.  Among  the  manufactures  of  this  thriv- 
ing city  are  those  of  steam-engines,  boilers,  threshing- 
machines,  casting  and  the  work  of  iron-foundries  and 
machine-shops,  coppersmith  work,  tobacco,  window- 
shades,  churns,  fanning-mills,  trunks,  soap,  flour, 
wagons  and  carriages,  furniture,  planing-mill  work, 
cooperage,  brick,  vinegar  and  many  others.  The  trade 
in  lumber  affords  a  striking  contrast.  In  1834  a 
small  raft  of  pine  boards,  the  first  that  ever  descended 
the  Upper  Mississippi,  furnished  the  material  for  a 
frame  building  used  as  a  boarding-house  in  Dubuque. 
In  1870  fifty  million  feet  of  pine  lumber  were  sold 
from  fifteen  Dubuque  lumber-yards,  and  the  trade  has 
very  considerably  increased  since  that  date. 

The  first  school  in  Iowa  was  opened  in  Dubuque  in 
1833.  At  present  there  are  in  the  city  a  dozen  fine 
buildings,  with  about  eighty  well-qualified  teachers  and 
over  three  thousand  pupils  to  mark  the  educational 
progress  of  its  citizens.  The  lead  mines  of  Juliea 
Dubuque  within  the  corporation  limits  and  surround- 
ing them,  have  been,  and  are  still,  an  important  ele- 
ment of  prosperity.  The  lead  district  of  Dubuque 
County  comprises  over  a  hundred  square  miles,  but 
the  larger  number  of  the  mines  are  worked  within  the 


LA   CXOSSE  TO  DUBUQUE.  243 

city,  or  within  a  mile  or  two  of  it.  Many  of  the  valu- 
able lodes  near  Dubuque  have  been  worked  beneath 
gardens,  streets,  roads  and  cultivated  fields.  The 
product  of  the  mines  has  averaged  in  value  about  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars  annually,  and  they  are  still 
as  productive  as  they  were  nearly  fifty  years  ago. 

The  Methodists,  in  1834,  were  the  first  religious 
denomination  established  in  Dubuque.  The  Catholics 
were  the  next,  in  1835;  and  by  the  year  1840,  the 
Presbyterians,  Congregational ists,  Episcopalians  and 
Baptists  had  organized  churches. 

No  city  of  the  Union  of  equal  population  has  in  our 
opinion  more  reason  to  be  proud  of  its  position,  char- 
acter and  reputation,  than  Dubuque,  in  developing  all 
the  elements  of  progress,  placed  by  nature  at' its  dis- 
posal. From  its  fortunate  geographical  position,  nearly 
midway  between  Saint  Louis  and  Saint  Paul,  it  bids 
fair  to  justify  its  claim  to  be  the  "  Metropolis  of  Iowa." 


CHAPTER  XX. 

DUBUQUE   TO   DAVENPORT. 

1  tftB-mntt)  JDag. 

BOWER  HOUSE, 

Bellevue,     Iowa, 

September  18,  1881. 

MAINED  at  Dubuque  until  after  din- 
ner.   Spent  the  morning  in  strolls  through 
and  around  the  city.     On  calling  for  our 
canoe  at  one  o'clock,  we  found  a  strong 
wind  from  the   south,  and    in   consequence 
rough    water   was   encountered   throughout 
the  afternoon. 

On  leaving  Dubuque  we  noticed  a  very  pro- 
nounced change  in  the  scenery.  The  bold,  rocky 
bluffs,  which  had  been  observed  at  intervals  all  along 
our  route  from  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  had  almost 
entirely  disappeared,  and  in  their  place  rolling  prairies 
came  down,  iu  many  cases  to  the  water's  edge,  in 
gradual  slopes.  Illinois  is  now  on  our  left  hand,  and 
as  we  reach  and  pass  the  various  cities  and  towns  that 
serve  as  landmarks  on  the  river,  we  begin  to  realize 
that  we  are  making  good  progress  toward  the  Gulf. 
We  were  strongly  tempted  to  paddle  over  to  the  east 
bank  and  set  our  feet  on  the  soil  of  the  "  Sucker " 
State,  but  the  wind  having  shifted  to  westward  we 
(244) 


DUBUQUE  TO  DAVENPORT.  245 

thought  it  wise  to  hug  the  windward  shore.  If  more 
favored  to-morrow  we  shall  run  over  and  pay  our  re- 
spects. 

Reached  Bellevue  at  half-past  seven  o'clock  and 
registered  at  the  Bower  House.  Here,  through  the 
courtesy  of  our  landlord,  Mr.  N.  O.  Ames,  we  were 
introduced  to  several  very  intelligent  and  agreeable 
citizens,  among  whom  were  Hon.  W.  O.  Evans,  editor 
of  the  Leader,  Captain  \V.  A.  Warren  and  Mr.  B. 
\V.  Seaward.  From  these  gentlemen  we  gleaned 
considerable  information  concerning  the  peculiar  origin 
and  early  history  of  Bellevue.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
settled  by  bandits  in  1836,  and  has  a  present  popula- 
tion of  eighteen  hundred  honest,  industrious  and  pros- 
perous citizens. 

It  stands  on  a  high  bank  thirty-two  miles  below 
Dubuque,  has  an  excellent  landing  and  is  noted  for  Hs 
fine  scenery. 

I  should  do  injustice  to  the  moral  standard  of  this 
respectable  and  enterprising  town,  if  I  failed  to  exp'/ain 
that  its  bandit  pioneers,  after  many  sanguinary  stuig- 
gles  with  the  officers  of  the  law,  were,  long  years  ugo, 
exterminated,  so  that  the  traveler  in  these  times,  who 
contemplates  a  sojourn  at  this  delightful  summer  re- 
sort, need  have  no  fears,  nor  provide  himself  with  an 
unusual  supply  of  ammunition,  nor  call  on  the  au- 
thorities to  protect  his  life  and  property  from  the 
onslaughts  of  marauders. 

Bellevue  has  two  banks,  one  weekly  paper  and  an 
extensive  trade  by  railway  in  grain,  stock  and  agri- 
cultural produce. 

It  is  a  promising  town,  and  its  onward  move- 
ment seems  assured. 


246  DOWN  THE  GREAT  11IVER. 


REVEKE  HOUSE, 

Clinton,     Iowa, 

Sept.  Nineteenth. 

So  agreeably  had  we  been  entertained  by  the  suc- 
cessors of  the  "  bandits,"  that  we  did  not  re-embark 
until  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  then  rather  re- 
luctantly, notwithstanding  our  resolution  of  the  pre- 
vious evening  to  start  at  a  much  earlier  hour.  \\e 
reached  Sabula,  on  the  west  bank,  thirty-three  miles 
below  Bellevue,  a  few  minutes  after  one  o'clock,  at 
which  place  we  dined. 

We  stepped  ashore  at  Lyons  and  looked  through 
its  principal  streets.  This  city  is  fifty-eight  miles 
south-east  of  Dubuque,  and  three  above  Clinton,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  street  railways.  It  has  a 
national  bank,  two  weekly  papers,  graded  public 
schools,  a  seminary,  several  factories  and  extensive 
nurseries.  Its  population  as  given  by  the  last  census 
is  something  over  four  thousand. 

Just  below  Lyons  we  were  met  by  Messrs.  E.  L. 
Moses  and  W.  F.  Coan,  Jr.,  "of  the  Wapsipinicon 
Boat-club,  who,  having  been  apprised  through  their 
city  papers  that  we  were  on  our  way  to  Clinton,  came 
up  the  river  to  extend  the  hospitalities  of  their  club. 
These  gentlemen  led  the  way  down  to  their  boat- 
house,  where  we  were  shown  the  various  craft  in 
which  they  delight  to  cut  the  water.  Boats  large  and 
small,  and  of  every  variety  of  manufacture,  from  the 
rudest  pattern  of  a  dug-out,  to  the  most  delicately 
constructed  sculls  and  skiffs. 

After  spending  a  half-hour  with  the  "  Wapsies"  we 


DUBUQUE  TO  DAVENPORT.  247 

were  escorted  to  the  Revere  House  and  introduced  to 
the  proprietor,  Mr.  J.  G.  Cornue,  to  whom  we  were 
indebted  for  many  favors  and  much  valuable  infor- 
mation concerning  Clinton  and  vicinity.  , 

Clinton,  the  county-seat  of  Clinton  County,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  just  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Wapsipinicon.  It  is  eighty  miles 
l>elo\v  Dnbtique,  forty-two  above  Davenport  and  one 
hundred  and  thirty-eight  west  of  Chicago.  It  contains 
three  banks,  one  daily  and  three  weekly  papers,  rail- 
road repair-shops,  foundries,  sash  and  blind-factories, 
a  paper-mill  and  eight  saw-mills.  Population  about 
ten  thousand.  The  river  is  crossed  at  this  point  by 
an  iron  railway  drawbridge,  having  its  eastern  ter- 
minus in  Fulton,  a  small  town  on  the  Illinois  side. 

While  here,  we  learned  of  the  death  of  President 
Garfield,  which  occurred  between  eight  and  nine 
o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  announcement  reached 
Clinton  at  half-past  ten.  I  had  retired,  but  was 
aroused  by  the  newsboys,  who  were  crying  extras  on 
the  streets,  and  a  few  moments  later  the  hotel  clerk 
handed  me  a  copy  of  the  Clinton  Herald,  giving  ail 
account  of  the  sad  event  at  Elberon,  New  Jersey. 


PRIVATE  HOUSE, 

Moline,     Illinois, 

September  Twentieth. 

We  were  up  very  early  in  the  morning  and,  after 
reading  the  details  of  the  President's  death,  had 
breakfast;  then  walked  down  to  the  boat-club  house, 
where  we  found  several  members  of  the  club  awaiting 
us.  Was  introduced  to  their  commodore,  Mr.  E.  M. 
14 


248  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Treman,  and  others.  Mr.  E.  L.  Moses,  who  met  us 
above  Clinton  the  evening  before,  accompanied  us 
down  the  river  in  a  "scull"  as  far  as  Comanche, 
where  he  introduced  me  to  an  acquaintance  of  his, 
Colonel  J.  H.  Smith,  late  of  the  Sixteenth  Iowa 
Volunteers,  who,  I  soon  discovered,  had  been  a  fellow- 
prisoner  at  Richmond  during  the  War  of  the  Rebel- 
lion. We  soon  fell  to  talking  over  our  army  ex- 
periences, and  became  so  much  absorbed  in  the  inci- 
dents of  our  prison-days,  that  Paine  concluded  I  had 
quite  forgotten  that  Moline  was  the  evening  objective. 
Perhaps  I  had,  for  it  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  break 
away  from  those  with  whom  we  have  shared  priva- 
tions, hardships  and  dangers,  when  we  meet  them  but 
once  or  twice  in  the  course  of  a  lifetime. 

Had  dinner  at  Cordova,  a  small  hamlet  on  the  Illi- 
nois shore,  twenty-one  miles  below  Clinton.  So 
strong  was  the  current  during  this  day's  journey  that 
we  covered  forty-three  miles  between  nine  o'clock  in 
the  morning  and  five  in  the  afternoon,  notwithstanding 
my  interview  with  Colonel  Smith,  at  Comanche,  and 
an  hour  for  refreshments  at  Cordova. 

The  Le  Claire  Rapids,  ten  miles  above  Moline,  were 
thought  by  many  to  be  dangerous  to  navigation  in 
small  boats;  but  we  rather  coveted  the  impetus  which 
they  were  certain  to  give  our  staunch  little  canoe, 
while  we  felt  sure  that  their  turbulent  character  had 
been  greatly  exaggerated.  It  is  needless  to  add  that 
the  rapids  were  safely  passed  and  that  we  heartily  en- 
joyed the  excitement  which  invariably  falls  to  the 
lot  of  a  voyager  in  a  swift  current  with  occasional 
slight  obstructions.  These  are  the  only  rapids  be- 
tween Fort  Snelling,  Minnesota,  and  Keokuk,  Iowa, 


DUBUQUE  TO  DAVENPORT.  249 

with  the  exception  of  the  Lower  Rapids  at  Moline, 
which  are  a  continuation  of  the  former.  The  ve- 
locity of  the  Upper  Rapids  is  sufficient  to  turn  a  mill- 
wheel  requiring  considerable  power,  and  we  noticed 
one  in  operation  on  the  Iowa  side. 

Arriving  at  a  convenient  landing-place  at  Moline, 
in  sight  of  many  evidences  of  an  advanced  civilization 
in  the  shape  of  sundry  gigantic  smoke-stacks,  we 
found  ourselves  in  the  lively  little  city  which  has 
been  designated,  with  some  show  of  reason,  the  "  Lowell 
of  the  West."  Moline  is  exclusively  a  manufacturing 
centre.  Passing  along  its  main  street,  parallel  to  the 
river,  we  see  little  else  than  factories,  some  of  con- 
siderable size,  and  the  busy  hum  of  machinery  sa- 
lutes our  ears  for  more  than  a  mile,  as  we  walk,  and 
look  with  wonder  on  these  signs  of  the  march  of 
western  industry  and  progress.  The  motive  power 
produced  by  a  fall  in  the  Mississippi  at  this  point,  and 
utilized  for  the  driving  of  machinery,  is  the  source 
of  all  this  energy,  and  has  made  Moline  one  of 
the  busiest  and  most  flourishing  places  in  the  western 
country.  The  National  Government  has  of  late  years 
greatly  improved  this  motive  power  for  the  benefit, 
mainly,  of  the  United  States  Arsenal  works  on  the 
island,  but  no  less  has  it  contributed  to  the  solid  ad- 
vantage of  the  enterprising  settlers  on  the  adjacent 
mainland,  and  hence  Moline,  the  "City  of  Mills,"  has 
attained  its  present  importance,  and,  we  believe,  it 
may  truly  be  said  that  no  other  city  in  the  West,  of 
its  size,  equals  it  in  manufacturing  vigor  and  re- 
sources. The  great  plow-factory  of  Messrs.  Deere 
&  Company  is  known  far  and  wide,  while  many 
other  establishments  of  scarcely  less  celebrity  flourish 


250  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

side  by  side  on  the  river's  bank,  giving  employment  to 
large  numbers  of  people  and  creating  and  distributing 
wealth  over  the  land. 

The  site  of  this  enterprising  city  is  favorable  to  its 
growth,  and  already  it  extends  its  arms  eastward 
almost  to  Rock  River,  an  important  tributary  of  the 
Mississippi,  distant  from  Moline  proper  about  three 
miles.  It  must  be  said,  however,  that  the  useful  pre- 
dominates over  the  beautiful  here,  as  in  most  manu- 
facturing centres,  albeit  not  lacking,  over  the  bluffs,  in 
many  beautiful  spots,  where  extensive  views  of  the 
Great  River  are  obtained,  and  sites  for  building  are 
being  selected.  Educational  and  religious  matters  are 
not  forgotten  by  this  busy  people.  Besides  several 
excellent  schools,  including  a  handsome  and  commo- 
dious High  School,  the  site  of  which  overlooks  the 
city,  and  is  in  every  respect  a  credit  to  the  citizens, 
Moline  has  a  flourishing  Public  Library,  containing 
many  thousand  volumes  of  theological,  historical,  bio- 
graphical and  scientific  works,  together  with  a  good 
assortment  of  fiction.  Here  are  also  several  churches 
of  the  various  religious  denominations  and,  from  all 
we  could  learn,  the  people  are  generally  sober,  intelli- 
gent and  industrious. 

In  population  Moline  is  smaller  than  either  Daven- 
port or  Rock  Island  City,  but  in  manufacturing  im- 
portance it  far  excels  them  both.  The  source  of  its 
growth  and  prosperity — the  water-power — will  doubt- 
less continue  to  operate  as  such  for  generations  un- 
told, and  Mobile  will  eventually  fill  the  entire  space 
between  the  Mississippi  and  Rock  River  at  this  point. 
Sylvan  Water,  the  poetic  designation  given  to  a  por- 
tion of  the  Great  River  lying  between  the  city  and 


AN   IOWA   TBIBUTARY   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 


DUBUQUE  TO  DAVENPORT.  251 

Rock-Island  Arsenal,  has  been  the  scene  of  the  an- 
nual regatta  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  Amateur 
Rowing  Association,  for  which  it  is  found  to  be  emi- 
nently adapted.  A  substantial  bridge  uniting  Moline 
with  the  arsenal  crosses  it,  and  from  this  a  view  is  ob- 
tained of  the  extensive  government  works  now  in 
progress  for  the  permanent  improvement  of  the  water- 
power. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

FOUR   DAYS   AT   DAVENPORT. 

Rock  Island  Arsenal — City  of  Rock  Island. 

'HE  entire  forenoon  of  September  twenty- 
first  was  devoted  to  an  inspection  of  the 
varied  manufactures  of  Moline,  and  in 
the  afternoon  we  dropped  down  to  Daven- 
port. Among  those  who  shook  hands  with 
us  at  the  landing  was  Colonel  P.  A.  J.  Rus- 
sell, city  editor  of  the  Democrat,  who  was  the  first 
to  greet  me  here  during  my  horseback  journey  from 
ocean  to  ocean  in  1876,  and  who  now  seemed  doubly 
interested  in  my  canoe  voyage  from  source  to  sea. 
The  colonel  remarked  that  he  had  no  intention  of 
letting  me  intersect  my  old  line  of  march  without  see- 
ing at  least  one  familiar  face. 

Stepping  into  a  carriage  which  was  in  waiting  at  the 
ferry,  we  were  driven  to  the  "  Kimball,"  until  recently 
known  as  the  Btirtis  House,  where  I  had  registered 
during  my  former  journey.  The  chief  topic  of  con- 
versation everywhere  at  this  time  was  the  death  and 
approaching  funeral  of  President  Garfield.  Having 
an  engagement  to  lecture  at  Davenport  on  the  twenty- 
third,  it  was  thought  advisable  by  many  to  cancel  it 
out  of  respect  to  theNation's  dead ;  while  others  urged 
that  as  a  large  number  of  tickets  had  been  sold  it 
(252) 


FOUR  DAYS  AT  DAVENPORT.  253 

would  be  better  to  meet  the  appointment.  I  accord- 
ingly lectured  at  Library  Hall,  being  introduced  by 
Mayor  Henry.  I  referred  to  the  dead  President  be- 
fore proceeding  with  my  lecture,  and  gave  my  reasons 
for  delivering  it  at  a  time  when  nearly  all  public  en- 
gagements were  either  cancelled  or  postponed. 

The  site  of  Davenport  and  its  vicinity  was  the 
camping-ground  of  the  Indians  from  time  immemo- 
rial. Marquette  and  Joliet,  the  discoverers  of  the 
country  over  two  hundred  years  ago,  found  the  tribes 
of  the  Illini  here.  There  were  three  villages;  the 
main  one,  at  which  they  landed,  was  called  Pewaria, 
where,  it  is  believed,  the  city  of  Davenport  now  stands, 
as  it  is  laid  down  on  Marqtiette's  map  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river  "  Conception,"  as  he  named  the  Mis- 
sissippi. The  beauty  of  its  location  has  been  often 
descanted  upon.  It  needs  no  pen  of  mine  to  describe 
its  loveliness  and  the  rich  and  varied  landscape  that 
surrounds  it. 

Less  than  fifty  years  ago  the  first  cabin  was  erected 
here  by  white  men.  The  retreating  footsteps  of  the 
red  man  were  still  heard  over  the  bluffs.  The  graves 
of  his  people  were  still  fresh  on  the  brow  of  the  hills, 
but  all  of  this,  with  the  play-grounds  of  his  children, 
have  now  been  covered  over  with  the  habitations  of 
the  pale  face.  The  mighty  river  that  once  bore  the 
frail  bark  of  a  Marquette  and  a  Joliet  has  become  the 
thoroughfare  of  states.  Where  the  light  canoe  of  the 
savage  once  glided  in  safety,  the  scu-ti-chemon  (or 
steamboat)  of  the  white  man  now  floats  with  majesty 
and  splendor,  and  this  magnificent  river  has  become 
the  highway  of  a  mighty  nation.  The  Mackinaw 
trad  ing- boat,  with  its  French  voyageur  has  left  its 


254  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

moorings  on  As-sln-ne- Man-ess  (Rock  Island),  and  old 
Fort  Armstrong,  that  had  stood  like  a  watchful  sen- 
tinel on  the  jutting  rocks  of  the  island  for  more  than 
forty  years,  has  been  burned  down  by  sacrilegious 
hands. 

The  bluffs  of  Davenport  consist  of  a  gentle  rise  from 
the  river  or  bottom  lands ;  not  so  steep  but  that  roads 
are  constructed  up  almost  every  part  of  them.  The 
general  elevation  of  these  bluffs  or  highlands  is  about 
one  hundred  feet  above  the  Mississippi,  covered  now 
with  residences,  gardens  and  cultivated  fields  to  their 
summit.  Davenport  Township  differs  from  most  others 
upon  the  river  in  the  beautiful  rolling  prairie  imme- 
diately back  from  the  river,  after  passing  the  bluffs. 
Back  of  the  city  the  slope  from  the  top  of  the  bluff  to 
Duck  Creek,  covered  as  it  is  with  gardens  and  fields, 
is  one  of  uncommon  beauty  and  richness. 

At  the  close  of  the  year  1832  there  were  no  settle- 
ments of  white  men  in  Iowa.  In  this  year,  on  the 
fifteenth  of  September,  General  Winfield  Scott  nego- 
tiated a  treaty  with  the  Indians  of  the  Sac  tribe  for  the 
purchase  by  the  United  States  of  the  territory  com- 
prising Scott  County,  bordering  on  the  river.  The 
city  of  Davenport  was  named  after  Colonel  George 
Davenport,  the  first  white  settler  on  Rock  Island,  on 
the  eastern  shore  of  the  river  and  immediately  opposite 
the  site  of  Davenport.  The  Government  had  appointed 
him  Indian  agent  and  he  received  a  grant  of  land  on 
the  Island. 

The  first  person  that  owned  land  in  Davenport  was 
Antoine  Le  Claire,  the  son  of  a  Canadian  French- 
man, born  in  Michigan  in  1797.  His  mother  was  the 
daughter  of  a  Pottawatomie  chief.  At  this  time  the 


FOUR  DAYS  AT  DAVENPORT.  255 

Territory  of  the  Northwest,  out  of  which  half  a  dozen 
great  States  have  since  been  formed,  was  peopled 
almost  entirely  by  the  red  man,  with  here  and  there 
one  of  a  different  race,  fearless  enough  to  brave  the 
perils  of  a  frontier  life  among  the  dusky  denizens  of 
the  wilderness.  The  father  of  Le  Claire  was  one  of 
these.  The  claim  upon  which  the  city  of  Davenport 
was  laid  out  was  purchased  by  Le  Claire  for  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  dollars!  In  1835  Mr.  Le  Claire  sold 
his  claim  to  a  company,  whose  object  was  to  lay  it  out 
as  a  town  site.  They  chose  well,  as  the  event  has 
amply  established.  During  the  first  year  only  some 
half  dozen  families  came  in,  mostly  from  Saint  Louis. 
The  first  hotel,  the  first  store  and  the  first  saloon  were 
opened  this  same  year.  The  saloon  was  a  log  shanty 
and  stood  on  Front  street  below  Western  avenue.  The 
"Davenport  Hotel,"  a  frame  building  of  small  pre- 
tension, erected  by  Messrs.  Davenport  and  Le  Claire, 
occupied  a  lot  on  the  corner  of  Front  and  Ripley 
streets  ;  and  the  first  store  was  the  property  of  James 
Mackintosh,  who  sold  to  the  scant  population  dry- 
goods,  groceries,  hardware  and  provisions.  But,  in 
addition  to  the  dozen  families  in  Davenport,  purchasers 
came  from  the  opposite  shore  of  the  river.  Lumber 
was  at  that  time  brought  up  the  river  from  Cincinnati. 
Flour  at  sixteen  dollars  per  barrel  and  pork  at  six- 
teen cents  per  pound  were  also  brought  from  Cincin- 
nati. From  this  first  year  the  ferry  also  dates  its 
origin — a  flat-boat  propelled  by  oars.  This,  in  time, 
gave  place  to  steam,  and,  at  present,  a  large  and  com- 
modious steamboat  is  constantly  employed  in  trans- 
ferring freight  and  passengers  between  the  Iowa  and 
Illinois  shores  of  the  river,  which  at  this  point  is  about 


256  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

a  mile  wide.  The  mortality  of  Davenport  during  the 
first  year  of  its  existence  amounted  to  seven,  with  a 
population  of  less  than  one  hundred  souls.  Stevenson 
— now  Rock  Island  City,  on  the  Illinois  shore,  which 
had  been  laid  out  in  1834 — possessed  at  this  time  a 
population  of  nearly  five  hundred. 

Davenport,  in  the  beauty  of  its  location,  excels  all 
the  other  cities  in  the  State.  Handsome  homes  dot  the 
bluffs.  River  views,  for  residences,  have  been  exten- 
sively occupied  by  the  well-to-do  citizens,  and  the 
scope  of  country  brought  within  the  range  of  the  eye 
from  some  of  these  hill-top  dwellings  is  scarcely  to  be 
excelled  for  beauty  by  anything  I  have  seen  on  the 
river.  The  drainage  is  of  nature's  own  making — the 
city  being  built  on  a  declivity.  There  is  much  room 
for  improvement  in  the  sidewalks  here.  Possibly  the 
citizens  are  too  busy  to  give  thought  to  a  subject  that 
concerns  them  only  externally.  Strangers,  however, 
notice  their  defective,  and  in  many  cases  dilapidated, 
condition,  and  make  uncharitable  remarks.  The  same 
applies  to  the  County  Court  House,  which  is,  without 
exception,  the  meanest  I  have  seen  in  any  city  east 
of  the  Rockies  and  north  of  "Dixie."  Verbum 
sapientia  suffieii. 

"O  wad  some  power  the  giftie  gie  us, 
To  see  oursels  as  ithers  see  us ! " 

The  educational  advantages  are  proportioned  to  the 
size  of  the  city.  Here  are  twelve  school-buildings,  in- 
cluding that  of  the  High  School,  erected  in  1874,  at  a 
cost  of  sixty-five  thousand  dollars.  The  annual  cost 
of  the  twelve  schools  is  about  seventy  thousand  dol- 
lars. Griswold  College,  belonging  to  the  Protestant 
Episcopal  diocese  of  Iowa,  occupies  a  very  picturesque 


FOUR  DAYS  AT  DAVENPORT.  257 

site  overlooking  the  river.  The  Roman  Catholic 
Academy  of  the  Immaculate  Conception  is  conducted 
by  the  Sisters  of  Charity  of  the  B.  V.  M.  Located 
within  the  city  boundaries,  it  is  surrounded  by  beauti- 
ful grounds  and  appears  as  quiet  and  retired  as  if 
miles  away  from  the  hum  of  the  restless  city.  The 
buildings  are  elegant  and  commodious,  and  a  new  ad- 
dition, at  a  cost  of  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  is  now 
in  course  of  erection.  This  academy  was  opened  for 
the  education  of  young  ladies  in  1859.  The  churches 
are  numerous  and  well  attended.  Grace  Church,  the 
cathedral  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  diocese  of  Iowa, 
is  a  very  fine,  substantial  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
eighty  thousand  dollars. 

Trinity  Church  has  a  chime  of  bells,  awaking  mem- 
ories of  youth  both  grave  and  gay,  and  may  be  heard 
at  a  distance  of  several  miles.  The  Roman  Catholic 
diocese  of  Davenport,  embracing  the  southern  half 
of  the  State,  has  also  its  seat  here  in  the  residence  of 
the  bishop.  Four  Baptist,  four  Catholic,  one  Chris- 
tian, two  Congregational,  four  Episcopal,  one  Hebrew, 
three  Lutheran,  four  Methodist,  one  Unitarian  and 
four  Presbyterian  churches  afford  strong  evidence  of 
progress  in  the  cause  of  religion. 

The  Public  Library  on  Brady  street,  ?s  a  means  of 
education,  is  not  to  be  passed  over  without  favorable 
mention.  It  was  founded  by  the  late  Mrs.  Clarissa 
C.  Cook,  a  lady  of  wealth  and  benevolence,  and  con- 
tains about  ten  thousand  volumes;  but  the  institution 
which  has  contributed  most  to  the  fame  of  Davenport, 
is  its  Academy  of  Sciences.  This  embraces  a  most 
valuable  collection  of  rare  curiosities,  ancient  and 
modern — relics  from  the  mounds  of  Iowa  and  adjoin- 


258  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

ing  states,  including  many  skulls  and  portions  of  the 
skeletons  of  pre-historic  man,  and  of  animals  of  an  ex- 
tinct race.  The  visitor  to  Davenport  may  spend  a  day 
very  profitably  in  this  well-ordered  and  attractive  mu- 
seum. Mercy  Hospital  is  under  the  management  of 
the  Sisters  of  Mercy,  and  was  opened  in  1868.  It  has 
grown  to  large  proportions  and  receives  and  cares  for 
patients  without  reference  to  their  religious  denomina- 
tion. It  has  the  entire  confidence  of  the  citizens  and 
all  testify  to  its  judicious  management  and  great  use- 
fulness. The  Home  for  the  Friendless,  founded  and 
liberally  endowed  by  the  benevolent  Mrs.  Cook, 
is  a  shelter  for  destitute  females.  It  supplies  a  want 
found  to  exist,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  in  most 
cities,  but  unfortunately  supplied  in  few.  It  is  to  the 
praise  of  Davenport  that  such  an  institution*  has  been 
provided  for  friendless  women  and  girls,  and  that 
it  is  so  well  and  carefully  conducted. 

The  growth  of  Davenport  has  been  mainly  since 
1850.  Surrounded  by  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country, 
it  aifords  good  sanitary  conditions  and  every  facility 
for  the  development  of  industry  of  many  kinds.  The 
present  population  is  about  25,000. 

Hock  Island  Arsenal  lies  to  the  north  of  Rock  Is- 
land City,  the  latter  not  being  situated  on  the  Island, 
as  might  be  supposed  by  the  untraveled  reader  from  its 
name.  The  Island  proper  has  been  appropriated  by 
the  United  States  Government  since  1804,  though  un- 
occupied until  1812,  on  the  breaking  out  of  the  war 
with  Great  Britain.  A  fort  was  erected  here  in  1816, 
and  named  Fort  Armstrong,  in  honor  of  the  then 
Secretary  of  War.  It  was  garrisoned  by  United  States 
troops  until  May,  1836,  when  it  was  evacuated.  In 


FOUR  DAYS  AT  DAVENPORT.  259 

1840,  the  Government  established  here  an  ordnance  de- 
pot, but  in  1845,  the  stores  were  removed  to  the  Saint 
Louis  Arsenal.  In  1862,  an  Act  of  Congress  con- 
verted the  Island  into  an  arsenal  for  the  National 
Government,  and  such  it  remains  to  this  day.  General 
Thomas  J.  Rodman,  the  inventor  of  the  Rodman  gun, 
was  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  Arsenal  in  June, 
1865,  and  continued  in  command  until  his  death  in 
1871.  In  March,  1869,  Congress  appropriated  $500,- 
000  for  the  construction  of  a  bridge  across  the  Missis- 
sippi, uniting  the  Island  with  the  city  of  Davenport,  im- 
mediately opposite.  General  Rodman  was  succeeded  in 
June,  1871,  by  Colonel  D.  W.  Flagler,  of  the  Ordnance 
Corps.  This  officer,  since  his  appointment,  has  effected 
great  improvements  on  the  Island,  having  converted  it 
into  a  strong  military  post — in  fact,  the  strongest  on 
the  Mississippi.  He  has  erected  substantial  quarters 
for  the  commander  and  his  subordinate  officers, 
soldiers'  barracks,  a  complete  system  of  sewerage,  a 
bridge,  connecting  the  Island  with  the  city  of  Moline; 
roads,  streets  and  avenues  across  the  Island;  a  water- 
power  wall,  powder-magazine,  pump-house,  and  has 
introduced  the  manufacture  of  stores  for  the  army  and 
machinery  for  the  various  shops  in  which  the  material 
of  war  is  extensively  fabricated. 

Rock  Island  Arsenal  is  united  with  the  Iowa  side 
of  the  river,  as  before  stated,  by  a  well-constructed  and 
handsome  bridge,  1,550  feet  long;  and  with  the  Illinois 
side  by  two  bridges,  t>ne  leading  to  Rock  Island  City 
and  the  other  to  Moline.  The  one  spanning  the  Miss- 
issippi on  the  north  of  the  Island  is  a  most  durable 
structure,  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
United  States. 


2GQ  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

White  settlers  appear  to  have  first  located  in  the 
vicinity  of  Rock  Island  about  the  year  1828.  In  the 
spring  of  that  year  there  were  only  nine  men  and 
their  families  on  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Rock 
Island.  About  this  time  the  Indians  of  the  Sac  tribe, 
of  whom  Black  Hawk  was  the  recognized  chief,  \vere 
in  the  habit  of  leaving  their  villages  on  the  Island  and 
its  vicinity  for  several  months  on  hunting  expeditions, 
and  the  white  settlers  took  advantage  of  this  absence 
to  move  in  and  take  posessession.  This  gave  rise  to 
much  discontent  and  hostility  on  the  part  of  Black 
Hawk  and  his  people  when  they  returned  to  their 
homes ;  and  as  the  number  of  settlers  increased,  the 
animosity  of  the  Indians  became  stronger.  The  com- 
manding officer  on  the  Island  and  the  Indian  agent, 
Colonel  George  Davenport,  frequently  urged  the  In- 
dians to  give  up  their  villages  and  lands  and  move 
across  to  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  in  accordance 
with  a  treaty  they  had  entered  into  with  the  United 
States  Government;  but  Black  Hawk  refused  to  go. 
Keokuk,  the  chief  of  the  Fox  tribe,  in  compliance 
with  the  treaty,  moved  to  the  Iowa  side  of  the  river 
and  established  himself  there.  From  1828  to  1831, 
the  white  settlers  on  the  main  land  in  the  vicinity  of 
Rock  Island  rapidly  increased  in  number.  The  lands 
were  surveyed  and  sold  to  the  settlers  by  the  United 
States  Government,  but  Black  Hawk  and  his  party  of 
Sacs,  which  numbered  about  five  hundred  warriors, 
still  occupied  their  villages  and  refused  to  leave.  The 
settlers  frequently  complained  of  depredations  by  the 
Indians,  and  in  the  spring  of  1831  Black  Hawk 
warned  the  white  men  that  they  must  leave.  It  was 
feared  that  some  neighboring  tribes  of  Indians,  the 


FOUR  DAYS  AT  DAVENPORT.  261 

Kickapoos,  Pottawatomies  and  Winnebagos,  would 
join  Black  Hawk  in  an  attack  on  the  settlers.  The 
latter  sent  petitions  to  the  military  authorities  at  Rock 
Island  and  Saint  Louis  and  to  the  Governor  of  Illinois, 
and  in  this  way  commenced  what  is  known  as  the 
Black  Hawk  War. 

Governor  Reynolds,  of  Illinois,  in  response  to  the 
repeated  complaints  of  the  settlers,  assembled  about 
sixteen  hundred  mounted  volunteers  at  Beardstown, 
ninety  miles  from  Rock  Island,  and  marched  them  to 
the  Island.  General  Gaines,  who  was  stationed  at 
Saint  Louis,  proceeded  at  once  to  Rock  Island  with 
the  Sixth  United  States  Infantry.  The  settlers  were 
all  ordered  to  move  to  the  Island,  and  the  General  sent 
for  Black  Hawk  for  a  talk.  General  Gaines,  the  offi- 
cers of  the  Sixth  Regiment,  the  officers  of  the  Island 
garrison,  and  the  settlers,  met  in  the  Council  House. 
Black  Hawk,  accompanied  by  about  one  hundred  war- 
riors in  their  war-paint,  drew  near,  and  when  within 
about  one  hundred  yards  of  the  place  of  assembly 
commenced  shouting  in  a  very  loud  and  intimidating 
voice.  It  was  thought,  from  the  shouting  and  the 
manner  of  the  Indians,  that  there  would  be  an  at- 
tempt made  at  a  general  massacre.  A  man  called 
"  The  Prophet,"  who  always  accompanied  Black  Hawk, 
commenced  shouting  in  the  Council  House  in  a  very 
boisterous  manner,  gesticulating  and  speaking  rapidly 
as  though  he  was  very  angry  and  desired  to  excite  the 
warriors  to  an  attack.  General  Gaines  spoke  to  Black 
Hawk  quietly  of  the  sale  of  their  lands  to  the  United 
States  Government.  The  Indians  said  the  lands  had 
never  been  sold.  General  Gaines  then  called  for  the 
reading  of  the  treaty,  which  seemed  to  enrage  them 


262  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

still  more.  Black  Hawk  exclaimed,  "The  white  peo- 
ple speak  from  a  paper,  but,"  striking  his  hand  upon 
his  breast,  "the  Indian  always  speaks  from  the  heart." 
He  said  their  lands  had  not  been  sold,  as  the  men  who 
signed  the  treaty  had  no  authority  to  sell,  having  been 
sent  to  meet  the  Government  chiefs  at  Saint  Louis  on 
other  business.  And  if  it  was  sold,  they  got  nothing 
for  it.  The  General  then  pressed  for  an  answer  about 
his  leaving  for  the  territory  assigned  him  and  his  people 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi.  He  replied,  that 
he  would  not  leave,  and  he  would  not  fight,  but  if  the 
whites  came  to  drive  him  off,  he  would  sit  down  in  his 
wigwam  and  they  might  do  as  they  pleased  with  him  ; 
for  himself  he  would  do  nothing.  General  Gaines  in- 
terpreted this  to  mean  that  he  would  fight. 

On  the  evening  of  June  nineteenth,  1831,  General 
Gaines'  command  was  joined  by  General  Reynolds 
with  his  volunteer  troops  near  the  mouth  of  Rock 
River,  and  the  next  morning  the  combined  forces 
moved  upon  the  Indian  village.  They  found,  how- 
ever, that  Black  Hawk  and  all  his  people  had  left. 
They  had  crossed  the  Mississippi  and  camped  about 
twelve  miles  below  Rock  Island.  June  thirtieth, 
Black  Hawk  came  to  the  Island  with  twenty-seven 
of  his  warriors  and  signed  a  treaty  of  peace  with 
General  Gaines  and  the  governor  of  Illinois,  the  latter 
acting  in  behalf  of  the  Government.  In  this  treaty, 
Black  Hawk  pledged  himself  not  to  return  to  the  east 
side  of  the  river  near  the  Island,  or  to  engage  again 
in  hostilities  with  the  white  settlers.  The  Illinois 
volunteers  were  then  disbanded  and  went  home,  and 
provisions  were  distributed  to  the  Indians  by  General 
Gaines. 


FO  UR  DAYS  AT  DA  YEN  FOR  T.  263 

During  the  following  winter,  it  became  evident  that 
Black  Hawk  would  not  keep  the  treaty  which  he  had 
signed  only  a  few  months  before;  and  in  the  following 
April  (1832)  he  crossed  the  Mississippi  at  Burlington 
and  moved  up  the  bank  of  the  river  with  about  five 
hundred  warriors  and  his  women  and  children,  with 
the  intention  of  driving  out  the  settlers  and  reoccupy- 
ing  his  old  village  on  the  Island.  He  expected  assist- 
ance from  the  Winnebagos  and  other  Indians  on 
Rock  River.  The  news  of  Black  Hawk's  movements 
soon  reached  Saint  Louis,  and  Colonel  Atkinson  left 
that  city  with  the  First  Infantry  for  Rock  Island. 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Zachary  Taylor,  afterwards  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  was  in  command,  and  Lieu- 
tenant Jefferson  Davis,  afterwards  President  of  the 
Confederate  States,  was  attached  to  the  First  Regiment, 
and  served  through  the  campaign.  Governor  Rey- 
nolds, of  Illinois,  assembled  about  two  thousand  volun- 
teers at  Beardstown  and  marched  to  Yellow  Banks, 
fifty  miles  below  Rock  Island.  Then  he  moved  to 
the  mouth  of  Rock  River,  where  he  was  joined  by 
Colonel  Atkinson  and  the  regulars.  The  volunteers 
were  commanded  by  General  Whiteside;  and  Abraham 
Lincoln,  afterwards  President  of  the  United  States, 
held  the  rajik  of  captain  in  the  command  and  fought 
throughout  the  campaign.  The  Indians  had  gone  up 
Rock  River  until  they  were  opposite  Rock  Island. 
Then  Black  Hawk  sent  his  women  and  children  up 
the  river  in  canoes,  and  he  and  his  warriors  ventured  a 
bold  attempt  to  capture  Fort  Armstrong  on  the  Island. 
At  this  time  the  garrison  mustered  less  thau  eighty 
fighting  men.  Black  Hawk  crossed  to  the  Island  with 
his  warriors  by  night,  a  distance  of  five  miles  through. 
15 


264  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  woods  and  over  the  bluffs  to  the  west  side.  A 
violent  snow-storm  prevented  an  attack  that  night, 
and  before  morning  Colonel  Atkinson  arrived  with 
the  First  Infantry  and  probably  saved  the  small  gar- 
rison from  massacre. 

The  Indians- withdrew  during  the  night  and  fol- 
lowed their  women  up  Rock  River.  Colonel  Atkin- 
son at  once  joined  General  Whiteside  and  his  volun- 
teers and  started  in  pursuit.  After  much  hard  fight- 
ing in  the  months  of  May,  June,  July  and  August, 
nearly  the  whole  of  Black  Hawk's  band  was  destroyed, 
and  Black  Hawk  himself,  his  son  Seoskuk  and  other 
chiefs,  were  captured  and  conveyed  to  Rock  Island. 
They  were  afterwards  taken  to  Washington  and  other 
eastern  cities.  The  Government  took  much  pains  to 
secure  for  Black  Hawk  a  kind  reception  by  the  Indians 
upon  his  return  from  his  "eastern  tour;"  and  the  ac- 
counts of  the  meeting  between  him  and  the  chiefs  at 
Rock  Island  are  very  affecting.  Black  Hawk  then 
established  himself,  with  a  remnant  of  his  own  tribe, 
on  Des  Moines  River,  in  Iowa,  where  he  died  in  1838. 

Tradition  states  that  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  came  from 
the  vicinity  of  Montreal,  Canada,  before  the  year 
1700;  and  that  they  had  lived  in  their  villages  on  or 
near  Rock  Island  fully  one  hundred  and  fifty  years. 
Their  affection  for  these  villages  was  like  that  of  the 
Israelites  for  their  city  of  Jerusalem.  At  the  close  of 
the  Black  Hawk  War,  there  is  no  record  of  further 
hostilities  with  the  Indians  at  Rock  Island. 

During  the  late  Civil  War,  the  Island  was  made 
available  by  the  Government  as  a  military  prison,  up- 
wards of  twelve  thousand  Confederate  prisoners  having 
been  confined  here.  Of  these,  one  thousand  nine  liun- 


FO UR  DA  YS  A  T  DA  VEXPORT.  265 

dml  and  sixty-one  died  during  their  imprisonment 
and  were  hurled  on  the  Island.  About  four  hundred 
Union  soldiers  were  also  buried  here,  and  on  each  re- 
curring Decoration  Day,  the  graves  are  strewn  with 
flowers. 

There  is  little  more  to  be  said  of  the  Island  except 
that  it  rests  upon  a  substantial  foundation  of  rock  of 
the  limestone  order  and  hence  its  name.  The  length 
of  the  Island  is  two  and  three-quarter  miles,  and  its 
width  varies  from  a  quarter  to  three-quarters  of  a 
mile.  A  very  pleasant  day  may  be  passed  in  wander- 
ing over  this  island,  which  seems  intended  to  become 
the  arsenal  for  the  entire  Mississippi  Valley.  When 
the  works  are  completed,  if  crdwded  to  its  full  capacity, 
it  will  arm,  equip  and  supply  an  army  of  seven  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  men — so  it  is  estimated. 

Surrounded  with  the  paraphernalia  of  grim  war, 
Commandant  Flagler  has  found  time  and  opportunity 
for  the  cultivation  of  the  science  of  ornithology,  and 
has  converted  his  island-fortress  into  an  immense 
aviary  !  Here  are  to  be  seen,  flitting  about  the  dense 
foliage  of  the  woodlands,  almost  every  variety  of 
American  bird — nearly  all  song-birds,  which  build  their 
nests  and  raise  their  broods  on  the  Island  unmolested. 
It  is  a  singular  adjunct  to  an  arsenal  and  reflects  credit 
on  the  taste  and  refinement  of  its  gallant  commander. 
The  colonel  wages  war  without  quarter  on  the  English 
sparrow,  however,  which  he  will  not  allow  to  alight 
and  rest  its  little  wings  on  his  preserves  on  pain  of 
summary  execution  by  the  shot-gun,  without  even  a 
preliminary  trial  by  court-martial. 

The  city  of  Rock  Island  is  situated  on  the  main- 
land at  the  extremity  of  Rock  Island  Arsenal,  on  the 


2G6  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Illinois  or  left  bank  of  the  river.  On  its  eastern  side 
are  some  very  picturesque  bluffs,  stretching  away  to 
the  sheltered  valley  of  the  Rock  River,  and  including 
scenery  of  unrivaled  beauty.  Comfortable  residences 
dot  the  sides  of  these  hills,  amid  clumps  of  trees  and 
miniature  forests  that  afford  shelter  and  shade  to  the 
well-to-do  residents.  Rock  Island  is  about  midway 
between  Saint  Louis  and  Saint  Paul,  and  immediately 
opposite  the  more  populous  city  of  Davenport,  Iowa. 
It  is,  as  already  stated,  connected  with  the  latter  city 
by  an  elegant  and  substantial  iron  bridge,  owned  by 
the  Government  and  open  to  the  public  free  of  toll. 
The  famous  water-power  produced  by  the  lower  rapids 
has  contributed  largely  to  the  marvelous  growth  of 
this  city  as  well  as  of  Moline,  the  city  of  factories, 
within  an  easy  walk  or  horse-car  ride  of  Rock  Island 
City.  Here  is  to  be  the  terminus  of  the  projected 
Hennepin  Canal,  by  which  it  is  proposed  to  solve  the 
problem  of  cheap  transportation  between  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  and  the  Mississippi,  through  the  intervening 
great  lakes.  Recently  a  deep  interest  has  been  mani- 
fested in  the  construction  of  this  canal,  the  accomplish- 
ment of  which  will  doubtless  be  of  vast  benefit  to  the 
people  of  the  North-west,  as  well  as  to  the  public 
generally. 

In  Rock  Island  City  we  found  numerous  flourish- 
ing establishments  for  the  manufacture  of  plows,  culti- 
vators and  other  agricultural  appliances;  of  wagons 
and  carriages,  together  with  foundries  and  machine- 
shops.  At  night  the  streets  are  brilliant  with  the 
Brush  electric  lights ;  the  side-walks  are  well  paved 
and  clean,  and  generally  in  a  much  better  condition 
for  pedestrians  than  those  of  the  sister  city  of  Daveu- 


FO UR  DA YS  AT  DA VENPORT.  2G7 

port,  across  the  river.  Rock  Island  has  a  well-organ-^ 
ized  police  force;  a  fire  department,  water-works, 
street  cars,  and  a  flourishing  Public  Library;  free  postal 
delivery,  churches,  public  schools,  and  a  commerce  and 
trade  second  to  no  city  of  its  size  in  the  Union.  In 
the  interest  of  the  growth  of  a  city  the  transportation 
problem  is,  perhaps,  the  most  important  question  for 
the  consideration  of  the  citizens,  and  Rock  Island  is 
very  favorably  situated  in  this  respect,  owing  to  her 
position  as  the  centre  of  a  system  of  railroads.  Several 
lines  pass  through  here  and  give  the  city  a  busy  aspect 
at  all  times.  It  is  on  the  line  of  the  great  transconti- 
nental highway.  The  Chicago,  Rock  Island  and 
Pacific  Railroad,  passing  through  Rock  Island,  con- 
nects the  eastern  trunk  lines  with  the  Union  Pacific 
at  Omaha ;  and  here  also  are  depots  of  the  Chicago, 
Milwaukee  and  Saint  Paul ;  the  Chicago  and  North- 
western ;  the  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy;  the 
Rock  Island  and  Peoria,  and  the  Rock  Island  and 
Mercer  County  railways.  The  population  of  this 
enterprising  little  city  is  at  present  about  16,000.  The 
private  residences  have  a  neat  and  thrifty  appearance, 
while  some  afford  evidence  of  the  wealth  and  taste  of 
their  owners.  The  shrubbery  and  flowers  which 
cluster  about  the  doorways  of  even  the  humblest  resi- 
dences are  indications  of  the  comfort  and  thriving 
condition  of  the  tenants. 

Three  miles  inland  from  Rock  Island  City  is  situ- 
ated a  very  picturesque  and  romantic  resort,  which  is 
frequented  by  the  inhabitants  of  both  sides  of  the  river 
at  this  point,  the  traditionary  name  of  which  is  Black 
Hawk's  Watch-Tower.  The  tower  is  of  nature's  archi- 
tecture, and  is  the  summit  of  the  highest  hill  overlook- 


268  DOWX  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

ing  Rock  River,  an  important  tributary,  from  which 
a  most  extensive  and  pleasing  picture  of  the  surround- 
ing country  is  obtained.  The  look-out  derives  its 
fanciful  name  from  its  having  been  used  by  Black 
Hawk  as  a  point  from  which  he  could  survey  his  coun- 
try for  many  miles  round  and  the  valley  of  the  great, 
winding  river.  It  is  said  to  have  been  selected  by  the 
chief's  father,  and  overlooked  the  tribe's  first  village 
near  the  banks  of  Rock  River.  Black  Hawk  in  the 
account  he  gave  to  Antoine  Le  Claire,  in  1833,  says: 
"The  Tower  was  my  favorite  resort  and  was  often 
visited  by  me  alone,  where  I  could  sit  and  smoke  my 
pipe  and  look  with  wonder  and  pleasure  at  the  grand 
scenes  that  were  presented,  even  across  the  mighty 
river.  On  one  occasion  a  Frenchman,  who  had  been 
resting  in  our  village,  brought  his  violin  with  him  to 
the  Tower,  to  play  and  dance  for  the  amusement  of  my 
people  who  had  assembled  there,  and,  while  dancing 
with  his  back  to  the  cliff,  accidentally  fell  over  it  and 
was  killed.  The  Indians  say  that  at  the  same  time  of 
the  year  soft  strains  of  the  violin  can  be  heard  near 
the  spot."  He  further  relates  that  "in  the  year  1827 
a  young  Sioux  Indian,  who  was  lost  in  a  violent  snow- 
storm, found  his  way  into  a  camp  of  the  Sacs,  and  while 
there  fell  in  love  with  a  beautiful  maiden.  On  leav- 
ing for  his  own  country  he  promised  to  return  in  the 
summer  and  claim  his  bride.  He  did  so,  secreting 
himself  in  the  woods  until  he  met  the  object  of  his 
affection.  A  heavy  thunder-storm  was  coming  on  at 
the  time,  and  the  lovers  took  shelter  tinder  a  rocky 
cliff  on  the  south  side  of  the  Tower.  Soon  a  loud  peal 
of  thunder  was  heard :  the  cliff  was  rent  into  a  thousand 
pieces  and  they  were  buried  beneath  them.  This,  their 


FO  UR  DAYS  AT  DA  VENPOR  T.  271 

unexpected  tomb,"  says  Black  Hawk,  "still  remains 
undisturbed."  The  "Tower"  is  much  admired,  and 
the  street-cars  of  Rock  Island  convey  many  hundreds 
of  visitors  to  its  summit  in  the  spring,  summer  and 
autumn,  where  they  pic-nic  for  the  day  and  enjoy,  with 
the  pure,  healthful  breezes,  a  most  sublime  view  of 
the  country  for  many  miles.  The  property  is  owned 
by  the  Davenport  family  and  is  made  freely  accessible 
to  all. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

DAVENPORT  TO   BURLINGTON. 


EASTERN  HOTEL, 

JUuscatina,     Iowa, 

September  25,  1881. 

>E  found  an  extended  field  for  observation 
at  Davenport,  Rock  Island  and  their 
environs,  and  would  gladly  have  spent 
many  more  days  in  this  delightful  lo- 
cality ;  but  to  keep  in  advance  of  the  cold 
weather,  which  was  now  following  us  down 
the  river  with  rapid  strides,  it  was  deemed  pru- 
dent to  press  forward  with  all  possible  despatch. 
In  consequence  of  this  decision  the  lecture  programme 
was  abandoned  and  short  halts  contemplated  in  the 
cities  and  towns  lying  along  our  route. 

Greatly  refreshed  by  our  four  days  on  shore,  we 
resolved  to  make  an  early  start  on  the  morning  of 
the  twenty-fifth,  and  at  seven  o'clock  were  in  our 
canoe.  Colonel  Russell  was  at  the  landing,  and  after 
returning  my  "  Mississippi  Album,"  which  had  been 
left  with  him  the  previous  evening,  pushed  us  out 
into  the  stream  with  best  wishes  for  a  prosperous 
voyage. 

(272) 


DAVENPORT  TO  BURLINGTON.  273 

On  opening  the  album  the  following  lines  were  found 
inscribed  in  the  colonel's  familiar  hand  : 

"DAVENPORT,  on  the  Mississippi., 
"Mr  DEAR  CAPTAIN  :  September  25,  1881. 

"  Safety  and  success,  thus  far, 

Adown  this  mighty  stream ; 
May  heaven  guard  thy  progress  still, 
And  grant  fulfilment  of  your  dream  ! " 

We  echoed  the  sentiment  of  the  last  two  lines 
thenceforth  to  the  end  of  our  voyage. 

A  vigorous  use  of  our  paddles  for  an  hour  and  a 
half  brought  us  to  Buffalo,  a  small  village  on  the  right 
bank,  ten  miles  below  Davenport.  After  dinner  at 
Buffalo  we  resumed  our  journey  with  Muscatine  as  the 
evening  destination,  which  city  was  reached  at  five 

O  /  » 

o'clock.  We  now  began  to  regard  ourselves  as 
something  more  than  amateurs  in  canoe  navigation,  as 
the  distance  covered  from  day  to  day  will  convince 
the  reader  that  we  were  not  lacking  in  propelling 
force. 

Muscatine,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  is  built 
on  a  rocky  bluff,  the  scenery  from  which  in  all  direc- 
tions is  very  charming  to  the  lover  of  nature.  The 
city  is  situated  at  the  apex  of  the  Great  Bend,  thirty 
miles  below  Davenport  and  three  hundred  and  seven- 
teen miles  above  Saint  Louis  by  rail.  The  Muscatine 
division  of  the  Burlington,  Cedar  Rapids  and  Minne- 
sota, and  the  south-western  branch  of  the  Chicago, 
Rock  Island  and  Pacific  railways  have  their  stations 
here.  It  is  the  shipping-point  of  an  extensive  and 
fertile  surrounding  country,  while  widely  extended 
beds  of  coal  and  quarries  of  freestone  and  limestone 


274  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

are  in  the  neighborhood.  Its  lumber  business  is  large 
and  increasing,  and  barley,  corn,  oats,  rye,  wheat,  wool, 
butter  and  pork  are  produced  on  the  rich  farms  ad- 
joining. It  supports  two  large  pork-packing  estab-' 
lishments  and  three  extensive  saw-mills,  and  has  a  "-as- 

'  O 

works,  four  banking  houses,  good  public  schools,  a 
Catholic  school,  a  fine  public  library,  five  newspapers, 
a  monthly  periodical,  and  fifteen  churches.  Muscatine 
was  first  settled  in  1836,  and  was  incorporated  as  a 
city  in  1853;  and  if  the  public  spirit  displayed  by  her 
capitalists  is  any  indication  of  future  prosperity,  I  con- 
clude that  they  will  not  be  disappointed.  The  popula- 
tion now  reaches  over  ten  thousand. 


FARM  HOUSE, 

Near  Mouth  of  Iowa  River, 

September  Twenty-sixth. 

Learning  that  this  day,  which  had  been  appointed 
for  the  funeral  of  the  late  President  Garfield,  would 
be  observed  at  Muscatine  with  befitting  ceremonies,  we 
remained  in  that  city  until  three  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, in  the  meantime  listening  to  an  eloquent  oration 
upon  the  life  and  public  services  of  the  eminent  sol- 
dier and  illustrious  statesman  whose  brilliant  career 
had  been  so  suddenly  closed  by  the  hand  of  the 
assassin. 

It  was  some  time  since  we  had  enjoyed  the  hospi- 
talities of  the  farmers,  but  we  had,  nevertheless,  not 
forgotten  that  many  of  the  pleasantest  evenings  of  our 
journey  had  been  spent  in  the  farm-houses  of  Minne- 
sota. We  were  now  desirous  of  testing  the  courtesies 
and  accommodations  of  the  Iowa  grangers,  and  also 


DAVENPORT  TO  BURLINGTON.  275 

of  picking  up  some  information  concerning  their  social 
and  industrial  progress. 

It  was  fortunate,  perhaps,  that  circumstances  brought 
us  to  the  farm  of  John  Warren  Walton,  a  pioneer  of 
Louisa  County,  an  intelligent  and  affable  gentleman. 
We  wandered  over  Mr.  Walton's  farm,  and,  looking 
to  the  westward  from  an  elevated  position,  our  eyes 
rested  upon  the  beautiful  groves  and  running  streams, 
and  we  wondered  not  that  Keokuk  and  Black  Hawk 
clung  with  such  tenacity  to  their  ancestral  hunting- 
grounds. 

The  Iowa  River  passes  diagonally  through  this  sec- 
tion of  lo  .va  to  its  confluence  with  the.  Mississippi. 
Its  banks  are  heavily  timbered,  and  the  farmer  finds 
his  highest  hopes  realized  in  the  natural  resources  of 
his  possessions.  In  this  county,  but  a  few  miles  from 
the  Walton  farm,  is  the  small  village  of  Florence, 
which  lives  in  history  as  the  home  of  Black  Hawk. 
Here  repose  the  bones  of  his  ancestors,  while  the  re- 
nowned chief  "sleeps  his  last  sleep"  in  a  distant  part 
of  the  State.  Our  evening  with  the  Wai  tons  was  oc- 
cupied chiefly  in  looking  over  a  large  number  of  Indian 
relics  which  had  been  carefully  preserved  and  classi- 
fied by  our  agreeable  host.  It  was  one  of  the  finest 
private  collections  we  had  ever  examined. 


BARRETT  HOUSE, 

Burlington,     Iowa, 

Sept.  Twenty-  seventh. 

"  Weighed  anchor"  at  seven  o'clock.  Our  attention. 
had  been  drawn  to  so  many  objects  of  interest  in  our 
route  to  Burlington  that  we  clearly  saw  the  necessity 


276  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

of  an  early  start.  Weather  pleasant  and  but  little 
wind. 

We  ran  down  to  Keithsbnrg  for  dinner.  This 
is  a  small  village  of  Mercer  County,  Illinois,  thirty- 
five  miles  below  Muscatine,  and  sixty-eight  south-west 
of  Chicago.  It  has  a  national  bank,  a  graded  public 
school,  and  a  weekly  paper.  Population  about  one 
thousand. 

So  genial  were  wind  and  weather  during  our  sixty- 
sixth  day  that  we  were  registered  at  the  Barrett  House, 
Burlington,  at  five  o'clock,  having  covered  forty-four 
miles,  since  pushing  off  at  the  mouth  of  the  Iowa  in 
the  morning. 

I  had  hardly  reached  my  room  at  the  hotel  when 
my  daughter,  Alice,  now  a  girl  of  twelve  years,  came 
bounding  up  the  stairs  to  meet  me.  She  had  been 
looking  for  us  all  the  afternoon,  but  we  had  dropped 
into  Burlington  so  quietly  that  very  few  were  aware 
of  our  arrival  until  we  were  registered  at  the  "  Bar- 
rett." I  had  placed  her  at  a  private  school  here  be- 
fore starting  on  my  expedition. 

After  tea  the  card  of  a  representative  of  the  Hawk- 
eye  was  handed  me,  followed  a  moment  later  by  the 
sender,  Mr.  J.  E.  Calkins,  who  politely  solicited  for 
his  paper  the  fullest  particulars  of  our  explorations 
and  discoveries  in  Northern  Minnesota.  This  infor- 
mation we,  of  course,  readily  furnished,  and  the 
following  day  the  readers  of  the  Hawkey e  were 
presented  with  a  narrative  of  the  discovery  of  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  a  brief  outline  of  our 
voyage  down  the  river. 

Julian  Dubuque,  a  French-Canadian,  was  the  first 
pioneer,  as  has  been  previously  stated,  who  found  his 


DAVENPORT  TO  BURLINGTON.  277 

\vay  to  what  now  constitutes  the  State  of  Iowa.  At 
this  period,  1778,  the  country  about  Burlington  was 
claimed  by  France,  and  that  government  granted  to 
the  intrepid  pioneer  a  large  tract  of  land  which  in- 
cluded the  site  of  the  now  flourishing  city  of  Dubuque. 
His  purpose  was,  like  that  of  most  of  the  earliest  pio- 
neers, to  trade  with  the  Indians  for  their  furs,  and  his 
death  occurred  in  1810. 

In  1833,  the  first  American  settlers  arrived  here,  after 
the  Black  Hawk  Indians  had  ceded  their  lands  by  treaty 
to  the  United  States.  These  settlers  came  mostly  from 
Illinois  and  located  on  the  spot  then  called  "The 
Flint  Hills,"  on  which  the  city  of  Burlington  now 
stands.  Not  a  single  mark  of  civilization  greeted 
these  early  settlers,  if  we  except  the  trading-post  of 
Julian  Dubuque's  successor,  on  the  present  site  of  the 
city  named  after  him.  The  Mississippi  was  the  west- 
ern limit  of  civilization,  but  the  land  of  promise  lay 
beyond.  Unbroken  forests  swept  from  the  heights  of 
Flint  Hills  down  to  the  river's  edge,  with  here  and 
there  the  solitary  wigwam  of  an  Indian  who  yet  lin- 
gered on  the  spot  he  had  bartered  away  to  the  white 
man. 

The  city  of  Burlington,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  is  five  hundred  and  thirty-six  miles  below 
Saint  Paul,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  above  Saint 
Louis.  Along  the  bank.of  the  river  and  the  valley  of 
Hawkeye  creek,  the  land  is  low,  but  back  of  this  the 
site  of  the  city  is  hilly  to  the  height  of  two  hundred 
feet,  to  the  level  of  the  prairie  which  stretches  away  to 
the  west.  The  first  settler  on  the  site  of  Burlington  was 
Samuel  S.  White,  who  built  his  cabin  on  what  is  now 
Front  street,  just  below  the  lots  on  which  the  Sunder- 


278  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Jand  mills  stand.  White's  brother-in-law,  Doolittle, 
and  others,  joined  him  in  1834,  and  together  they  laid 
out  the  original  town.  John  Grey,  a  Vermonter,  a 
friend  of  White,  gave  the  name  of  "  Burlington  "  to 
the  prospective  town,  in  honor  of  the  city  of  that 
name  in  his  native  State.  The  future  Burlington  com- 
prised then  only  a  few  log-cabins,  and  the  first  frame 
houses  were  erected  by  White  and  Doolittle  in  1834. 
In  this  year  the  first  store  was  opened  by  Dr.  Samuel 
S.  Ross.  The  first  brick  house  was  built  by  Judge 
David  Rorer,  in  1836. 

In  1837,  the  population  of  the  embryo  city  num- 
bered three  hundred,  and  in  February,  1838,  Burling- 
ton was  incorporated.  On  the  twenty-eighth  of  Decem- 
ber, 1846,  Iowa  was  admitted  into  the  Union  and 
John  Lucas  elected  its  first  governor.  Zion  Church 
was  used  as  a  place  of  worship  and  State-house  from 
the  installation  of  the  territorial  government,  in  1838, 
until  the  removal  of  the  State  capital  to  Iowa  City. 
It  stood  on  Third  street,  between  Washington  and 
Columbia  streets,  on  the  spot  where  now  stands  the 
magnificent  Opera  House,  the  pride  of  the  Orchard 
City.  "Old  Zion"  is  no  more. 

Burlington's  first  school-house  was  erected  in  the 
year  1835;  and  its  first  saw-mill  in  1837.  Dr.  Ross 
and  Miss  Matilda  Morgan  were  the  parties  to  the  first 
wedding  in  1833.  The  license  and  the  preacher  were 
obtained  from  Monmouth,  Illinois,  there  being  no  terri- 
torial government  at  this  time,  and  therefore  no  author- 
ity to  perform  the  marriage  ceremony  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river.  The  bridal  company  crossed  in  a  scow 
and  the  knot  was  tied  as  they  stood  on  the  eastern 
bank,  after  which  the  guests  returned  to  make  merry 


DA  VENPORT  TO  B  UELING  TON.  279 

at  the  wedding  dinner.  From  a  population  of  three 
hundred  in  1837,  Burlington  leaped  to  one  of  twenty 
thousand  in  1880,  an  interval  of  only  forty-three  years, 
and  at  the  present  date  (1885)  it  numbers  at  least 
twenty-eight  thousand  inhabitants.  A  considerable 
proportion  of  these  are  of  German  birth  or  descent, 
many  of  whom  are  among  its  most  substantial  and  en- 
terprising citizens. 

Burlington  is  a  city  of  the  first-class,  with  a  mayor 
and  aldermen,  a  well -organized  police  force,  fire  de- 
partment, water-works,  gas,  street-cars,  a  fine  public 
library,  churches,  public  schools,  two  colleges,  one  of 
the  best  opera-houses  in  the  West,  a  splendid  boat-club 
house,  ami  commerce,  trade  and  manufactures  of  a 
character  to  warrant  the  belief  of  her  citizens  that  in 
a  few  more  years  she  will  rank  among  the  first  of 
western  cities.  The  private  residences  are  exceedingly 
attractive  in  appearance,  and  nothing  could  be  more 
beautiful  than  the  view  from  those  on  the  summit  of 
Prospect  Hill.  Most  of  them  are  owned  by  their  oc- 
cupants, which  accounts  for  their  neat  and  thrifty  style 
and  surroundings.  The  little  park  on  North  Hill  is  a 
delightful  resort  in  the  summer,  with  its  fountain  and 
walks  and  seats  under  the  shade  of  the  maples  and 
elms.  North  of  the  Catholic  Cemetery  is  Black  Hawk 
Amphitheatre,  with  a  great  granite  boulder  in  its  centre. 
Here,  tradition  says,  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  assembled  in 
council  and  determined  the  question  of  peace  or  war. 
The  granite  boulder  was  the  rostrum  from  which 
Black  Hawk  appealed  to  his  people  when  they  rallied 
for  the  final  struggle  with  the  white  man. 

The  city  of  Burlington  is  favorably  situated  in  the 
important  matter  of  transportation  facilities.  With 


280  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

nine  lines  of  railway  radiating  to  all  points  of  the  com- 
pass she  connects  with  Chicago,  Cleveland,  Cincinnati, 
and  the  South-east ;  with  Saint  Paul,  Minneapolis  and 
theNorth-west ;  and  with  Missouri,  Nebraska,  Kansas, 
Colorado  and  Texas.  She  thus  enjoys  every  advantage 
for  developing  her  trade.  The  Mississippi  also  plays 
an  important  part  as  a  means  of  transportation,  large 
amounts  of  merchandise  being  brought  here  for  dis- 
tribution. The  levee  is  a  very  fine  one,  embracing  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  solid  paved  roadway,  with  a 
gradual  slope,  making  the  landing  easy  of  access.  The 
quantity  of  freight  received  and  shipped  by  river  is 
said  to  be  rapidly  increasing.  Large  amounts  of  lum- 
ber from  up-river  are  received  and  landed  at  Burling- 
ton to  be  stored  in  the  yards  to  dry,  after  which  it  is 
shipped  by  railway  to  various  points  in  Iowa,  Illinois, 
Missouri,  Kansas,  and  Nebraska.  The  amount  of 
lumber  shipped  from  Burlington  is  a  large  item  in  her 
general  trade.  The  smokestacks  of  the  manufactories 
are  seen  in  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  Murray  Iron 
Works  are  large  and  substantial  buildings.  The  Bur- 
lington Plow  Company,  Wolfe's  Furniture  Factory, 
the  Buffington  Wheel  Works,  and  many  others,  are 
fully  up  to  the  times  in  the  character  and  amount  of 
their  products. 

The  Opera  House  is  a  credit  and  an  ornament  to  the 
city  and  is  one  of  the  finest  constructed  theatres  in  the 
West.  It  was  opened  in  1882,  and  cost  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  The  Burlington  Boat-club  has 
been  an  important  factor  in  promoting  the  improve- 
ment of  the  city.  Its  primary  objects  were  to  build 
and  maintain  a  boat-house,  purchase  boats  and  pro- 
mote the  art  of  rowing  with  a  view  to  the  improve- 


DA  YEN  FOR  T  TO  B  VRLING  TON.  281 

ment  of  its  members  in  manly  exercise.  But  they  have 
accomplished  far  more,  and  to  them  the  city  owes,  in  a 
great  measure,  the  erection  of  its  beautiful  opera-house. 
They  have  a  very  handsome  club-house  'which  orna- 
ments the  river  approach  to  the  city,  and  the  members, 
besides  extending  their  fame  from  Lake  Minnetonka  to 
Creve  Cour  Lake,  have  participated  with  honors  in 
the  regatta  of  the  National  Rowing  Association  at 
Washington.  A  large  percentage  of  the  muscle  and 
blood  of  Burlington  are  numbered  among  its  members, 
who  are  noted  for  their  skill  in  aquatic  contests  and 
regattas  occurring  in  the  Mississippi  Valley. 

A  splendid  iron  bridge  crosses  the  river  at  this 
point,  built  by  theChicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy  Rail- 
road Company.  It  consists  of  nine  spans  and  is  about 
two  thousand  two  hundred  feet  in  length.  There  is  also 
a  commodious  steam-ferry  crossing  the  river  to  Hender- 
son, which  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi. The  Public  Library  occupies  pleasant  and 
well-arranged  rooms  on  the  north-west  corner  of  Fourth 
and  Jefferson  streets.  It  has  about  seven  thousand 
volumes  on  its  shelves,  which  have  cost  over  ten  thou- 
sand dollars.  The  library  originated  in  a  liberal 
gift  of  five  thousand  dollars  by  the  Hon.  James  W. 
Grimes. 

The  educational  interests  of  Burlington  appear  to 
have  been  carefully  fostered,  as  evidenced  by  the  public 
schools,  the  denominational  schools,  private  schools, 
colleges  and  academies.  The  high-school  building  is 
a  model  of  its  kind.  Burlington  College,  at  the  head 
of  College  Street,  is  surrounded  by  ample  and  orna- 
mented grounds,  and  is  a  select  boarding  and  day 
school  for  young  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The  Academy 
16 


282  DOWN  THE  GREAT  KIVER. 

of  Our  Lady  of  Lourdes,  on  the  corner  of  Fourth  and 
Court  streets,  has  a  handsome  building  and  accommo- 
dates about  one  hundred  and  twenty  pupils.  Several 
other  public  and  private  schools  flourish  here,  and  the 
poorest  citizen  can  secure  a  good  education  for  his 
children. 

The  press  of  Burlington  through  one  of  its  members, 
has  carried  the  name  and  fame  of  this  city  into  the  re- 
motest corner  of  America;  and  across  the  ocean,  on 
the  news-stands  of  London,  Liverpool,  Manchester, 
Birmingham  and  Glasgow,  it  is  found,  and  has  given 
the  city  of  its  birth  and  growth  a  cosmopolitan  char- 
acter which  it  will  probably  never  lose.  Esto  perpetua,' 
"The  Burlington  Hawkeye !  "  May  thy  witty  and  in- 
structive pages  continue  to  delight  our  descendants  as 
they  have  instructed  and  delighted  us. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

BURLINGTON   TO  QUINCY. 


GALT  HOUSE, 

A  I  Mo  ntrose,  Iowa, 

September  28,  1881. 

A,  wont  you  let  me  get  into  the  canoe 
and  go  a  little  way  with  you  and  Mr. 
Paine  this  morning?"     These  were  the 
words   that  greeted  my  ears  as  we  were 
about  to  re-embark  at  Burlington.     It  had 

f  never  occurred  to  us  that  any  one,  large  or 

small,  would  covet  the  position  of  third  person 
in  the  very  limited  space  at  our  command,  for  the 
good  reason  that  a  casual  glance  forbade  such  a  vent- 
ure; but  Alice  being  persistent  in  her  request  to  try 
it,  we  lifted  her  into  the  canoe  and  pushed  off.  Find- 
ing that  our  staunch  little  craft  was  not  overburdened, 
we  headed  down  stream,  and  were  soon  making  good 
progress  towards  Dallas,  our  noonday  objective.  The 
only  other  incident  of  the  morning  was  our  first  ad- 
venture with  a  sand-bar.  It  would  hardly  appear  that 
a  boat  so  slight  as  to  draw  but  five  inches  of  water 
could  be  brought  to  a  stand  by  such  an  obstruction, 
but  such  was  the  case,  much  to  our  chagrin  and  the 
great  amusement  of  the  passengers  and  crews  of  the 

(283) 


284  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

passing  river  steamers.  The  explanation  is  brief.  A 
strong  current  throws  the  canoe  or  skiff  upon  the  bar, 
and  the  voyager,  not  wishing  to  risk  a  wetting  by 
stepping  out  of  his  boat  and  pushing  or  pulling  her  off 
the  bar,  continues  to  use  his  paddle  or  oar  aided  by  the 
current,  which,  instead  of  helping  him  out  of  his  dif- 
ficulty, only  renders  his  escape  all  the  more  impossible. 
After  considerable  moralizing  and  many  experiments 
with  our  paddles,  which  did  not  materially  improve 
the  situation,  captain  and  crew  pulled  off  their  boots 
and  stepping  out  on  the  bar,  carried  the  canoe  and  its 
solitary  passenger  into  water  of  sufficient  depth  to 
float  it.  This  occurrence  on  the  sand-bar  had  no  at- 
tractions for  Paine  or  myself,  but  was  greatly  enjoyed 
by  Alice,  who  exclaimed  :  "Oh,  I  am  so  glad,  papa,  for 
now  I  can  remain  with  you  so  much  the  longer." 

Dallas  was  reached  in  season  for  dinner.  This  town 
is  in  Hancock  County,  Illinois,  fifteen  miles  below 
Burlington  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  has  a  weekly 
paper,  two  banks  and  several  factories.  Population 
something  over  eight  hundred. 

While  at  Dallas  we  were  introduced  to  Dr.  J.  M. 
Lionberger  and  Mr.  Benoni  Mendenhall,  who  seemed 
to  find  much  pleasure  in  pointing  out  the  attractions 
of  their  village.  I  was  indebted  to  Dr.  Lionberger 
for  the  assurance  that  he  would  assume  the  responsi- 
bility of  safely  returning  my  daughter  to  '  Burling- 
ton. Parting  with  her  at  'this  place  was  the  most 
trying  experience  that  fell  to  my  lot  during  our  long 
voyage.  Her  desire  to  remain  with  us;  the  affectionate 
solicitude  expressed  for  me,  and  the  reluctance  with 
which  she  promised  to  return  to  school,  were  quite  all 
I  could  bear. 


BURLINGTON  TO   QUINCY.  285 

During  our  journey  from  Dallas  to  Montrose  we 
observed  on  both  banks  of  the  river  many  graceful 
slopes,  swelling  and  sinking,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  In  some  instances  dense  forests  still  cover  these 
slopes  with  timber  of  the  finest  quality,  the  oak  pre- 
vailing. Again,  they  revel  in  their  carpet  of  green, 
dotted  here  and  there  with  clumps  of  trees  that  it  would 
baffle  the  skill  of  the  landscape  gardener  to  imitate; 
now  crowning  the  grassy  heights,  now  clothing  the 
green  fields  with  partial  or  isolated  shade. 

The  slopes  and  the  rich  alluvial  bottoms  that  inter- 
vene furnish  the  sites  for  the  numerous  cities,  towns 
and  villages  which  stud  the  banks  of  the  Father  of 
Waters,  like  gems  in  this  great  sea  of  commerce. 

From  the  hill-tops  are  seen  cultivated  meadows  and 
rich  pasture  grounds,  irrigated  by  numerous  rivulets 
winding  through  fields  of  hay,  fringed  with  flourish- 
ing willows.  On  the  summit  levels  spread  the  rich 
farms  of  Iowa  and  Illinois,  the  long,  undulating  waves 
of  the  prairie  stretching  away  until  sky  and  meadow 
mingle  in  the  wavy  blue.  Art,  science  and  manufact- 
ures gather  their  busy  multitudes  here  and  take  posses- 
sion of  these  sylvan  scenes.  As  we  glide  along  in  our 
voyage  towards  the  sea  the  ear  is  greeted  by 

"  The  mill-stream's  fall, 
The  engine's  pant  along  its  quivering  rails, 
The  anvil's  ring,  the  measured  beat  of  flails, 
The  sweep  of  scythes,  the  reaper's  whistled  tune, 
Answering  the  summons  of  the  bells  of  noon; 
The  woodman's  hail  along  the  river  shores, 
The  steamboat's  signal,  and  the  dip  of  oars." 

Among  the  chief  objects  of  a  noteworthy  character 
which  especially  arrested  our  attention  in  this  day's 


DOWN  THE  GREAT  1UVER. 

journey  were  Nauvoo  and  the  ruins  of  its  Mormon 
Temple,  which,  on  account  of  their  peculiar  history, 
claim  more  than  a  passing  notice. 

Nauvoo,  the  "City  of  Beauty,"  situated  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  about  midway  on  the  western 
boundary  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  1ms  an  eventful  his- 
tory. It  is  to-day  a  small  village  composed  of  a  few 
houses  at  a  short  distance  from  the  ruins  of  the  once  mag- 
nificent Mormon  Temple.  The  village  is  located  upon 
one  of  the  most  lovely  sites  on  the  river,  the  ground 
rising  with  a  gentle  slope  to  a  wide  plateau  at  the 
summit,  which  overlooks  the  river  and  opposite  coun- 
try for  many  miles.  In  1840  the  spot,  where  subse- 
quently the  town  was  built,  became  a  refuge  for  the 
Mormons,  who  were  fleeing  from  the  persecutions  of 
an  angry  mob.  A  branch  of  the  Mormon  community 
had  early  been  located  in  Jackson  County,  Missouri. 
According  to  an  alleged  revelation  given  to  Joseph 
Smith,  their  pseudo  prophet,  that  locality  was  the  very 
spot  on  which  "Adam's  altar  was  built,  in  the  centre 
of  the  Garden  of  Eden ! "  They  had  not  been,  ac- 
cording to  the  report,  wholly  desirable  citizens  and 
neighbors,  and  the  inhabitants  at  last  expelled  them. 
Ziou  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Gentiles,  and  while 
some  of  the  Mormons  returned  to  Kirtland,  Ohio, 
others  settled  in  Clay  County,  Illinois. 

For  several  years  they  remained  in  this  county  un- 
molested, and  even  made  many  converts.  In  1837, 
the  bank  of  Kirtland  having  failed,  Smith,  Rigdon 
and  others  joined  the  Missouri  settlement.  A  spirit 
of  insubordination  had  sprung  up  in  this  community. 
There  were  contentions  among  those  within,  and  quar- 
rels with  those  without,  and  for  three  years  a  general 


BURLINGTON  TO  QUINCY.  287 

excitement  prevailed  in  the  State.  The  Mormons 
came  into  frequent  collision  with  their  Gentile  neigh- 
bors, and  many  persons  were  killed.  The  "Saints" 
openly  defied  the  people  who  were  not  of  their  belief, 
and,  with  zeal  begotten  of  fanaticism,  even  threatened 
to  march  upon  Saint  Louis  and  lay  it  in  ashes. 

Rumors  now  circulated  among  the  people  generally 
regarding  the  immoral  practices  of  the  leaders.  Polyg- 
amy had  not  yet  become  a  recognized  doctrine  of  their 
church,  and  was  even  expressly  forbidden  by  the 
"  Book  of  Mormon."  Finally,  the  disfavor  in  which 
they  were  held  by  the  unbelievers  in  their  religion, 
culminated,  and  in  November  the  entire  people  of  the 
Mormon  settlement  were  compelled  to  flee  for  their 
lives  towards  the  Mississippi.  Young  and  old,  the 
sick  and  infirm,  helpless  women  and  children  as  well 
as  strong  men,  twelve  thousand  in  number,  exposed  to 
cold  and  hunger  and  every  privation,  at  last  found  a 
temporary  resting-place  upon  the  western  bank  of  the 
Great  River. 

The  people  of  Illinois,  on  the  opposite  side,  believ- 
ing that  the  persecution  was  unjust  to  which  the  Mor- 
mons had  been  so  ruthlessly  subjected,  extended  help 
to  them,  and  invited  them  to  the  shore  of  their  State. 
Crossing  the  river,  they  pitched  their  tents  upon  a  rich 
delta  formed  by  the  Des  Moines  and  Mississippi  rivers, 
and  thus  the  town  of  Nauvoo  was  founded. 

The  believers  soon  built  themselves  rude  log-huts, 
while  they  gave  freely  of  their  scant  means  for  the 
erection  of  a  temple,  which  was  designed  to  excel  in 
magnificence  every  other  religious  edifice  in  the  world. 
This  temple  eventually  cost  them  over  five  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  and  was  built  of  polished  limestone. 


288  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

It  was  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  long  by  eighty- 
eight  wide;  sixty-five  feet  to  the  cornice,  and  with  a 
cupola  one  hundred  and  sixty -three  feet  in  height.  The 
weather-vane  on  the  summit  of  the  spire  represented  the 
figure  of  a  prophet  blowing  a  trumpet.  An  immense 
stone  basin,  supported  by  twelve  colossal  oxen,  formed 
the  baptistery,  which  was  in  the  basement.  The  plan  of 
the  temple  was  revealed  to  Joseph  Smith,  according  to 
his  statement,  and  the  corner-stone  was  laid  on  April 
sixth,  1841. 

They  were  allowed  to  dwell  in  quiet  in  their  new 
home;  but  to  prepare  for  future  contingencies,  Smith 
organized  a  military  corps,  which  he  called  the  Nauvoo 
Legion,  and  of  which  he  assumed  command  with  the 
rank  of  lieutenant-general.  On  parade  the  prophet 
appeared  at  the  head  of  his  Legion,  followed  by  half  a 
dozen  females  on  horseback,  dressed  in  black  velvet 
riding-habits,  with  long  white  plumes  on  their  hats. 

At  Nauvoo  was  first  given  the  alleged  revelation 
concerning  "spiritual  wives,"  which  finally  culminated 
in  open  polygamy.  This  and  other  objectionable  prac- 
tices of  the  "Saints"  fell  under  condemnation.  The 
people  of  Illinois,  like  those  of  Missouri,  felt  scandal- 
ized. Smith  attempted  to  check  the  rising  storm  by 
contradictions,  denunciations  and  excommunications. 
But  those  who  thus  fell  under  his  displeasure  de- 
nounced him  in  turn.  A  newspaper  was  established 
at  Nauvoo  in  acknowledged  opposition  to  him,  and 
charged  him  with  all  the  crimes  of  which  he  had  ac- 
cused others.  By  his  orders  the  paper  was  suppressed, 
the  printing  material  destroyed,  and  the  editors  were 
compelled  to  flee  for  their  lives.  The  latter  entered 
complaint  at  Carthage  for  the  violence  done  them,  and 


BURLLNGTOX  TO   QUINCY.  289 

warrants  were  issued  for  the  arrest  of  Joseph  Smith 
and  his  brother  Hiram.  The  faithful  rallied  around 
their  prophet  and  resisted  the  officers  sent  to  serve  the 
warrants.  The  city  was  fortified  and  the  Legion  slept 
under  arms. 

The  governor  of  the  State  personally  interfered  and 
persuaded  the  Smiths  to  surrender,  on  the  assurance 
that  they  should  receive  protection  and  justice.  They 
were  accordingly  arrested  and  placed  in  Carthage  jail. 
But  a  new  charge  was  brought  against  them,  that  of 
treason  against  the  Government,  and  it  was  rumored 
that  through  the  connivance  of  the  governor  they 
were  permitted  to  make  their  escape.  The  people  be- 
came panic-stricken  and  vowed  that  "  if  law  could  not 
reach  them,  powder  and  shot  should." 

On  the  evening  of  the  twenty -seventh  of  June,  1844, 
the  jail  of  Carthage  was  forcibly  entered  by  a  mob, 
armed  and  disguised.  Hiram  Smith  was  shot  dead  in 
his  cell,  and  Joseph  was  mortally  wounded  as  he  was 
attempting  to  leap  from  a  window.  Placing  him 
against  the  wall  of  the  jail,  four  muskets  at  once  put 
an  end  to  his  life.  The  executioners  were  never 
identified. 

Smith  was  at  once  magnified  into  a  martyr,  and  his 
blood  became  the  "  seed  of  the  church,"  which  has  in- 
creased in  numbers  from  that  day  to  this.  Brigham 
Young  was  elected  by  the  "  College  of  Apostles,"  of 
which  he  was  president,  to  succeed  Smith  as  the  head 
of  their  church,  and  the  new  chief  promptly  excom- 
municated Rigdon  and  others  who  had  aspired  to  the 
position.  Young  moderated  the  vengeance  of  the  Mor- 
mons, and  peace  seemed  again  to  be  about  settling  on 
the  community,  when  Eigdon  and  the  other  recreants 


290  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

spread  reports  of  crime  and  debauchery  at  Kativoo 
from  one  section  of  the  country  to  the  other.  The 
smaller  Mormon  settlements,  off-shoots  of  that  at  Nau- 
voo,  were  promptly  attacked  by  armed  mobs,  and  the 
same  fate  would  doubtless  have  befallen  the  larger 
place  had  not  a  "special  revelation"  been  received 
commanding  the  immediate  departure  of  the  Saints  to 
the  then  remote  West  on  the  Missouri  River,  near 
Council  Bluffs. 

In  February,  1846,  sixteen  hundred  men,  women 
and  children  crossed  the  Mississippi  on  the  ice,  on  foot 
and  in  ox-teams,  for  the  new  Land  of  Promise.  Others 
followed  them  as  soon  as  property  could  be  disposed 
of  and  arrangements  made.  A  command  was,  how- 
ever, said  to  have  been  received  from  Heaven  for  them 
to  remain  for  the  completion  and  dedication  of  the 
Temple.  But  the  mob  became  impatient  and  attacked 
the  city.  The  Legion  held  it  at  bay  whilethe  Temple 
was  completed  and  dedicated.  The  baptistery  was  fes- 
tooned with  flowers;  the  walls  decorated  with  symbolic 
ornaments;  lamps  and  torches  glittered;  prayers  were 
uttered  and  chants  were  sung,  and  thus  the  dedication 
was  completed. 

In  an  hour  afterwards  the  portal  was  closed  and  an 
inscription  placed  upon  it:  "The  House  of  the  Lord! 
Built  by  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day 
Saints.  Holiness  to  the  Lord  ! "  and  the  Saints  were 
already  making  their  way  across  the  Mississippi.  The 
last  of  the  Mormons  were,  in  September  of  the  same 
year,  driven  from  their  homes  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet. 

Thirty  months  after  its  consecration  the  Temple  was 
destroyed  by  fire  at  midnight.  It  was  afterwards 


BURLINGTON  TO   QUINCY.  291 

partially  restored,  but  in  May,  1850,  was  cast  into  a 
heap  of  ruins  by  a  tornado,  which  also  laid  the  town 
low.  The  place  fell  into  the  hands  of  a  colony  of 
Icarian  Socialists  from  Paris,  under  M.  Cabet,  who 
practised  a  sort  of  community  life,  but  failed  to  attain 
that  temporal  prosperity  which  is  not  infrequently  the 
result  of  such  a  system. 

Thus  concludes  all  that  is  of  interest  in  the  history 
of  Nauvoo,  though  it  is  but  the  beginning  of  the  his- 
tory of  the  Mormons,  who,  driven  from  place  to  place, 
at  last  established  themselves  in  the  lap  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains;  a  history  full  of  romance  and  literally 
stranger  than  fiction,  which  has  become  interwoven 
with  that  of  the  Nation. 

So  much  of  absorbing  interest  had  been  observed 
and  commented  upon  at  Dallas,  Nauvoo  and  other 
points  along  the  route  from  Burlington  that  we  did 
not  reach  our  evening  destination  until  nearly  eight 
o'clock.  We  were  glad  indeed  to  get  out  of  the  canoe 
and  get  into  our  hotel,  where,  after  supper,  I  wrote  up 
my  log  for  the  day,  and  gathered  from  the  best  author- 
ities I  could  find  some  information  concerning  Mont- 
rose,  which  is  claimed  by  many  of  its  citizens  to  be 
the  oldest  town  in  the  State. 

It  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Lee 
County,  Iowa,  forty  miles  south-east  of  Burlington, 
and  twelve  north  of  Keokuk.  It  is.  connected  with 
Nauvoo  by  ferry,  and  is  reported  to  have  a  population 
of  a  little  less  than  a  thousand.  Its  people  are  engaged 
largely  in  the  preparation  of  lumber.  The  Chicago, 
Burlington,  and  Quincy  Railroad  runs  through  it  and 
has  a  station  here. 


292  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

0«)enttetl) 


LACLEDE  HOUSE, 

At     Keokuk,     Iowa\ 

September  Twenty-ninth. 

"Look  out  for  the  Keokuk  Rapids!"  was  the  last 
injunction  we  received  before  leaving  Montrose  in  the 
morning.  In  fact  this  had  been  our  usual  warning 
for  several  days  whenever  we  appeared  on  shore,  until 
we  had  come  to  think  some  terrible  ordeal  awaited  us. 
So  far,  we  had  found  but  three  of  Nature's  obstructions 
in  the  descent  of  the  river,  which  we  had  overcome  by 
having  recourse  to  a  portage;  these,  it  will  be  remem- 
bered, were  the  Kak-a-bik-onsy  a  few  miles  below 
Lake  Itasca,  Pokegama  Falls,  below  Lake  Winni- 
begoshish,  and  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony.  Some 
kindly  disposed  persons  suggested  that  we  should  have 
the  canoe  carried  down  to  Keokuk  at  the  foot  of  the 
rapids  on  a  wagon  ;  while  others  advised  a  passage 
through  the  Government  Ship  Canal  on  the  Iowa 
shore.  Having  run  all  the  rapids  of  the  Great  River 
thus  far,  we  were  not  inclined  to  make  an  exception 
of  these  if  their  descent  was  compatible  with  ordinary 
safety  ;  and  further,  we  did  not  care  to  be  subjected  to 
the  inconvenience  and  delay  of  locking  through  the 
canal,  or  the  seemingly  unnecessary  trouble  and  ex- 
pense of  a  long  portage.  Inquiry  at  Montrose  had 
elicited  the  following  information  :  length  of  rapids, 
twelve  miles;  fall  of  water,  twenty-four  feet;  occasional 
obstructions  throughout  entire  length. 

On  reaching  the  head  of  the  rapids  we  encountered 
what  we  had  long  since  learned  to  anticipate  almost 
regularly  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  namely,  a 


BURLINGTON  TO  QU1NCY.  293 

strong  southerly  wind,  and  in  consequence  a  disturbed 
surface.  So  determined  was  the  resistance  offered  by 
the  wind  that,  instead  of  dashing  down  the  rapids  at 
"  break-neck  pace,"  as  had  been  predicted  by  our 
friends,  it  was  only  by  dint  of  a  spirited  use  of  our 
paddles  that  any  perceptible  progress  was  made  in  the 
canoe.  There  was  greater  danger  of  going  to  the  bot- 
tom through  the  action  of  the  waves  than  by  contact 
with  obstructions  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  Paine,  who 
Hsed  the  double  paddle,  became  so  thoroughly  ex- 
hausted that  we  were  compelled  to  disembark  about 
three  miles  above  Keokuk.  After  resting  half  an 
hour  we  again  pushed  off,  finding  the  elements  still  in 
possession.  A nother  hour  of  persistent  struggle  against 
the  high  wind  and  a  rough  sea  enabled  us  to  reach  the 
landing  at  Keokuk,  between  two  and  three  o'clock,  glad 
indeed  to  be  out  of  range  of  the  boisterous  wind  and 
rapids,  which  together  fought  us  with  such  determina- 
tion that  we  made  but  twelve  miles  in  four  hours  of  the 
hardest  work  that  we  had  up  to  this  point  recorded. 

The  following  tradition  connected  with  the  early 
history  of  the  "Gate  City"  is  generally  accepted  on 
the  spot  as  true  in  outline  if  not  in  detail. 

Dr.  Samuel  C.  Miner,  of  the  United  States  army, 
came  to  Warsaw,  Illinois,  in  the  year  1820,  and  built 
himself  a  log  shanty  on  the  corner  of  Main  street  and 
the  levee.  He  soon  found  that  it  was  "  not  good  for 
man  to  be  alone,"  and  formed  an  attachment  for  the 
daughter  of  an  Indian  chief,  which  in  these  rude  times, 
and  the  absence  of  church  or  legal  functionaries,  was 
unsanctioned  by  any  marriage  ceremony,  except,  we 
may  presume,  the  primitive  one  of  mutual  consent. 
This  woman  bore  him  five  children.  But  an  order  came 


294  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

at  length  from  the  War  Department  which  suddenly 
dissolved  the  union  by  requiring  all  army  officers  and 
attaches  to  separate  themselves  from  the  Indian  females 
with  whom  they  were  living  in  marital  relations,  and 
the  doctor  was  removed  to  Puck-e-she-tuck,  or  "  Foot 
of  the  Rapids,"  now  known  as  Keokuk.  Here  he  died 
of  cholera  in  1832,  having  been  the  first  white  resident 
of  the  future  city.  In  the  meantime  the  American 
Fur  Company  had  established  a  trading-post,  erecting 
several  log-cabins  on  a  spot  now  known  by  the  eupho- 
nious title  of  "  Rat  Row,"  and  large  accessions  to  the 
settlement  followed  in  a  short  time.  The  first,  however, 
to  settle  here,  after  Dr.  Miner,  was  Moses  Still  well  and 
his  family.  Then  the  fur  company  and  its  employes 
came,  after  one  of  whom,  Joshua  Palean,  a  street  in 
the  city  is  named.  The  employes  of  the  company  all 
took  Indian  wives,  and  thereby  rendered  themselves 
very  popular  with  the  natives.  The  population  grew 
rapidly,  but  the  fur  company,  for  reasons  of  its 
own,  determined  to  remove.  They  were  succeeded  by 
Isaac  R.  Campbell  and  Samuel  C.  Muir,  who  occupied 
their  buildings  and  continued  their  trade  of  supplying 
the  Indians  and  whites  with  the  necessaries  of  life. 
"Rat  Row"  at  this  period  comprised  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  settlement,  and  included  hotel,  church,  court- 
house, grocery  and  saloon.  Up  to  this  time — 1835 — 
the  settlement  had  been  without  a  distinctive  name, 
being  known  as  "  Foot  of  the  Rapids,"  or  its  Indian 
equivalent,  Puck-e-she-tnck.  Finally,  some  steam- 
boat men  proposed  to  name  it  Keokuk,  after  the 
friendly  chief  of  the  Sacs,  and  this  name  was  ulti- 
mately adopted. 

In   the  spring  of  1837  a  village  was  laid  out  by 


BURLINGTON  TO   QU1NCY.  295 

Dr.  Isaac  Galland,  agent  of  the  New  York  Land  Com- 
pany, and  was  formally  inaugurated  and  recorded  as 
"Keokuk."  In  1840  the  main  portion  of  Keoktik 
was  a  dense  forest,  and  about  a  dozen  log-cabins  were 
sufficient  for  the  settlers.  In  1847  the  census  gave 
the  population  as  six  hundred  and  twenty.  Keokuk 
was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  December  of  this  year, 
and  \yas  governed  by  a  mayor  and  aldermen.  The  first 
school  was  opened  by  a  shoemaker,  named  Jesse  Cray- 
ton,  in  1833,  who  taught  his  few  pupils  and  made 
shoes  for  the  villagers,  without  detriment  to  his  trade 
or  his  profession. 

Keokuk  is  called  the  "Gate  City,"  from  its  position 
at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  and  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Des  Moines  River.  It  is  situated  about  two  hundred 
miles  above  Saint  Louis,  and  is  about  the  same  distance 
from  Chicago;  stands  on  a  high  and  commanding  site 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  very  productive  country.  The 
population  at  present  is  about  twenty-two  thousand. 
As  evidence  of  its  good  sanitary  condition,  the  bluffs 
in  its  vicinity  were  known,  it  is  said,  among  the  In- 
dians as  the  "Medicine  Ground."  The  city  possesses 
the  requisites  of  a  substantial  prosperity,  its  location 
giving  it  many  advantages.  A  fine  iron  bridge  spans 
the  Mississippi  at  this  point,  combining  a  railroad, 
wagon  road  and  a  foot  bridge,  which  contributes, 
doubtless,  to  a  considerable  extent,  to  the  trade  of 
the  city.  Another  substantial  bridge  crosses  the  Des 
Moines  River,  and  adds  largely  to  the  business  interests 
of  Keokuk.  The  Government  Canal  is  a  grand  work, 
by  means  of  which  the  dangers  arising  from  rocks  and 
shoals  in  the  rapids,  that  formerly  interfered  with 
navigation,  are  entirely  obviated,  and  large  vessels  pass 


296  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

through  in  perfect  safety  on  their  way  up  and  down 
the  river.  The  cost  of  the  canal  to  the  Government 
was  nearly  four  million  dollars.  The  largest  steam- 
boats find  ample  room  at  Keokuk  for  loading  and  dis- 
charging freight  ancf  passengers.  A  great  inducement 
to  manufacturers  to  locate  here  is  the  valuable  water- 
power  created  by  the  Des  Moines  rapids,  and  there  can 
be  little  doubt  that  in  due  time  this  force  will  be  taken 
ad  vantage  of  and  Keokuk  become  an  important  manu- 
facturing centre. 

One  of  the  national  cemeteries  is  located  in  this  city. 
It  is  beautifully  laid  out  and  well  kept,  with  marble 
headstones  on  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the 
soldiers  who  died  during  the  Civil  War  in  the  Keokuk 
Government  Hospital.  Extensive  waterworks  and 
an  effective  fire-department  have  been  provided 
since  1875.  There  are  over  ten  miles  of  water-mains, 
and  fifteen  miles  of  macadamized  streets,  with  good 
side-walks  sheltered  from  the  sun  in  summer  by  the 
foliage  of  countless  shade-trees.  The  city  contains  a 
free  public  library  with  nine  hundred  volumes,  for 
which  a  very  handsome  building  has  been  provided. 
There  are  over  twenty  churches  of  all  denominations, 
and  eight  school  buildings  with  an  enrolment  of  over 
two  thousand  pupils.  There  is  also  a  well-appointed 
street  railway,  and  a  beautiful  park  has  been  opened 
for  the  exercise  and  recreation  of  the  citizens.  Another 
feature  of  Keokuk  is  an  artesian  well,  throwing  a 
barrel  of  water  a  minute,  the  exterior  of  which  is 
highly  ornamental. 

The  Buckeye  Foundry  and  Machine-Shops  were 
established  here  in  1849,  and  employ  a  considerable 
number  of  men  in  the  manufacture  of  steam-engines, 


BURLINGTON  TO   QUINCY.  297 

mill  machinery,  all  kinds  of  castings,  car-wheels,  etc. 
A  plow  factory,  also  employing  many  hands,  and  a 
barb-wire  factory,  have  been  located  here  since  1875, 
and  other  manufactures  are  destined  to  follow  in  their 
wake. 

The  situation  of  Keokuk  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids 
has  made  her  a  port  of  considerable  importance  for 
steamboats,  which  carry  large  quantities  of  grain  and 
other  freight  every  season  to  Saint  Louis  and  southern 
ports  on  the  river.  Steamers  touch  here  daily,  some 
bound  through  from  Saint  Paul,  and  others  stopping 
at  Keokuk  to  discharge  and  take  on  freight  and  pas- 
sengers. The  fair-grounds  are  located  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  the  city,  are  well  inclosed  and  contain  a 
fine-art  hall,  mechanical  and  agricultural  halls,  amphi- 
theatre, dining-rooms  and  every  convenience  for  the 
exhibition  of  stock.  Seven  railroads  centre  here,  thus 
offering  every  facility  for  transport  and  travel. 

Prominent  among  the  educational  institutions  of  the 
city  is  the  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  of  the 
practical  success  of  which  the  citizens  have  much  to  say. 
The  building  is  a  fine  structure  and  occupies  a  central 
position  in  the  city.  The  oldest  daily  newspaper  in 
Keokuk,  The  Gate  City,  is  an  enterprising  and  wide- 
awake sheet.  The  daily  Constitution,  the  leading 
Democratic  organ,  has  a  large  and  increasing  circu- 
lation. 

Keokuk,  though  small  in  comparison  with  some 
cities  on  the  river,  has  broad  thoroughfares,  handsome 
and  substantial  buildings,  occupies  a  beautiful  locality, 
and  her  citizens  are  justly  proud  of  the  progress  she 
has  made  since  the  day  of  Dr.  Samuel  C.  Miner  and 
his  Indian  princess. 
17 


298  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 


PRIVATE  RESIDENCE 

At  Gregory,   Missouri, 

September  Thirtieth. 

Wind  up  stream,  with  occasional  showers  in  the 
morning.  Remained  at  Keokuk  until  four  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  when,  finding  the  weather  favorable,  we 
floated  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  DCS  Moines  River. 
This  is  the  largest  river  of  Iowa,  and  is  formed  by  the 
junction  of  two  branches,  known  as  the  East  and  West 
Forks,  which  rise  in  a  chain  of  small  lakes  in  south- 
western Minnesota,  and,  flowing  in  a  south-easterly 
direction,  unite  in  Humboldt  County,  Iowa.  From 
this  junction  it  flows  south-east,  through  the  central 
portion  of  the  State,  to  its  confluence  with  the  Missis- 
sippi, four  miles  below  Keokuk.  In  its  course  of  three 
hundred  miles  the  Des  Moines  drains  ten  thousand 
square  miles  in  Iowa,  passing  through  an  undulating, 
fertile  region,  interspersed  with  tracts  of  prairie,  rich  in 
coal  and  abounding  in  timber.  Many  flourishing  towns 
have  sprung  up  along  its  banks,  among  which  is  Des 
Moines,  the  capital  of  the  State.  The  principal  tribu- 
taries from  the  west  are  the  North,  Middle,  South  and 
Racoon  rivers.  The  largest  eastern  branch  is  the 
Boone,  which  rises  in  Hancock  County. 

Our  object  in  moving  from  Keokuk  at  so  late  an 
hour  was  not  to  insure  better  accommodations,  but  to 
sleep  on  the  soil  of  Missouri,  place  another  State  at  our 
backs,  and  subtract  at  least  twelve  miles  from  the 
balance  of  our  seaward  journey.  We  found  nothing 
at  Gregory  worthy  of  attention  except  a  supper,  lodg- 
ing and  breakfast,  if  we  omit  numberless  mud-holes, 
caused  by  overflows  of  the  river. 


BURLING  TOtf  TO  QUINCY.  299 


TREMOKT  HOUSE, 

Quincy,   Illinois, 

October  First. 

We  shook  the  mud  of  Gregory  from  our  feet  at 
eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  stepping  into  the 
Alice  started  for  Quincy.  Weather  warm  and  cloudy, 
with  mercury  at  85°  in  the  shade.  Met  several 
steamers  which  were  evidently  on  their  way  to  points 
on  the  Upper  Mississippi.  A  large  flock  of  pelicans 
were  seen  a  few  miles  below  Gregory,  presenting  a  wall 
of  white  as  they  stood,  in  line  on  the  beach  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  in  advance  of  us.  Paine  fired  at  them  with 
his  revolver,  but  without  apparent  effect,  except  to 
frighten  them  away. 

Went  ashore  at  Canton,  Missouri.  This  town  is 
twenty-two  miles  below  Keokuk,  and  one  hundred 
and  ninety-one  above  Saint  Louis.  It  has  a  national 
bank,  a  weekly  paper,  several  flour  and  lumber  mills, 
and  claims  a  population  of  between  three  and  four 
thousand.  On  returning  to  the  landing  we  found  a 
large  crowd  admiring  our  canoe.  One  said:  "Ain't 
she  a  daisy  ?  "  Another  remarked  :  "  I  reckon  that 
trick  cost  a  heap  of  money  !  "  A  speculative  bystander 
inquired:  "How  much  will  you  take  for  her,  colonel?" 
These  were  the  first  provincialisms  we  had  noted  since 
leaving  the  Chippewa  country,  and  we  were  not  a  little 
amused  by  their  oddity. 

Dined  at  Lagrange,  a  pleasant  village  of  Lewis 
County,  Missouri,  eight  miles  below  Canton  and  twelve 
above  Quincy.  Here  we  found  a  college,  a  savings' 
bank  and  a  weekly  paper. 


300  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Quincy,  the  "Gem  City"  and  the  capital  of  Adams 
County,  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi. 
It  stands  on  a  limestone  bluff,  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  feet  above  the  river,  commanding  a  most  pic- 
turesque view  of  the  country  for  several  miles,  and  has 
one  of  the  best  steamboat-landings  to  be  found  on  the 
Mississippi.  It  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  above 
Saint  Louis,  and  ninety-five  west  of  Springfield,  the 
capital  of  the  State. 

Quincy  saw  the  first  white  settler  establish  himself 
as  a  trader  with  the  Indians  in  the  year  1822.  It  was 
not  long  before  others  followed,  and  in  1825  a  town 
was  laid  out,  which  in  1834  had  attained  sufficient 
growth  and  importance  to  be  incorporated.  It  received 
its  charter  as  a  city  in  1839,  and  now  ranks  in  popula- 
tion as  the  second  city  in  the  State  of  Illinois.  It  is 
regularly  laid  out  and  well  built,  paved,  watered  and 
lighted ;  the  business  blocks  being  chiefly  of  brick, 
well  designed  and  substantial.  The  city  has  an  exten- 
sive river  traffic;  a  splendid  railroad  bridge  across  the 
Mississippi ;  four  well  proportioned  parks,  providing 
convenient  breath  ing- pi  aces  for  the  citizens,  who  crowd 
them  in  the  warm  summer  evenings;  a  fine  fair-ground, 
covering  about  eighty  acres ;  many  elegant  public  and 
private  edifices;  numerous  manufactories,  employing 
about  four  thousand  operatives,  and  producing  an- 
nually $10,000,000  worth  of  goods.  Lines  of  horse- 
cars  traverse  the  leading  thoroughfares.  Many  of  the 
private  residences  are  spacious,  elegantly  and  taste- 
fully planned,  and  surrounded  by  well-kept  and  very 
beautiful  grounds.  Quincy  has  thirty  churches;  four 
daily,  one  tri-weekly  and  seven  weekly  papers  of  dif- 
ferent shades  of  politics.  Two  hospitals  and  three 


BURLINGTON  TO  QUISCY.  301 

asylums  are  among  the  benevolent  institutions  pro- 
vided by  the  city  for  those  in  need  of  treatment.  It 
has  a  medical  college  of  great  value  to  the  people; 
several  academies  and  seminaries,  besides  the  public 
schools,  which  are  nine  in  number,  including  a  high 
school,  a  grammar  school,  and  intermediate  and  pri- 
mary departments;  the  number  of  pupils  in  these  being 
about  three  thousand.  A  good  city  library  is  also 
provided  for  the  intellectual  enjoyment  of  the  citizens. 
Two  national  and  two  other  banks;  a  fine  grain  ele- 
vator, and  a  large  business  in  pork-packing  and  ice- 
collecting;  thirteen  carriage  and  wagon  manufactories; 
eight  iron  foundries;  eleven  brickyards  and  eleven 
flour-mills  attest  the  commercial  and  manufacturing 
importance  of  the  "Gem  City;"  which  has  also  an 
efficient  police  force  and  a  well-organized  fire  depart- 
ment. The  present  population  of  Quincy  is  estimated 
at  over  thirty  thousand. 


..-\;/      _.,;; 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

QUINCY   TO  SAINT   LOUIS. 

PRIVATE  RESIDENCE, 

Ha  nnibal,    Mi  saourit 

October  2-4,  1881. 

*T  was  the  custom  of  the  voyage  to  spend 
our  Sundays  in  town,  but  having  ar- 
ranged to  meet  my  wife  at  Hannibal  we 
were  again  on  the  water  at  ten  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  and,  at  the  end  of  three  hours, 
had  reached  our  destination,  twenty  miles 
below  Quincy.  At  Hannibal  we  remained  three 
days  in  the  enjoyment  of  some  approach  to  do- 
mestic comfort.  The  change  was  a  welcome  relief  to 
both  Paine  and  myself,  and  it  was  not  without  some 
reluctance  we  renewed  our  acquaintance  with  the  Alice. 
This  staunch  little  craft  had,  however,  carried  us  thus 
far  in  safety,  and,  with  confidence  in  her  virtues  be- 
gotten of  experience,  we  again  committed  ourselves  to 
her  care. 

Hannibal  is  a  busy  commercial  city  in  Marion 
County,  Missouri,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  one 
hundred  and  forty-four  miles  above  Saint  Louis.  Its 
favorable  position  and  extensive  railroad  connections 
have  contributed  largely  to  its  rapid  growth  and  pros- 
perity, the  latter  being  clearly  indicated  by  the  large 
(302) 


QUINCY  TO  SAINT  LOUTS.  303 

number  of  fine  residences  on  the  surrounding  slopes. 
The  Mississippi  is  crossed  here  by  a  splendid  iron 
bridge  adapted  for  ra^  _____  ,  ,,agon  and  passenger 
travel.  The  city  is  rapidly  increasing  in  extent  and 
importance,  and  is  the  supply-point  for  large  quantities 
of  tobacco,  pork,  flour  and  other  produce.  The  lead-' 
ing  trade  is  in  lumber  with  other  parts  of  the  State,  as 
well  as  with  Kansas  and  Texas,  and  it  claims  to  be 
one  of  the  most  extensive  lumber  markets  on  .  the 
western  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  The  manufactories 
include  iron  foundries,  car-shops,  machine-shops,  sev- 
eral large  tobacco  works,  beef-curing  establishments, 
saw-mills,  flour-mills,  and  the  lumber  yards  are  fifteen 
in  number.  Coal  and  limestone  abound  in  the  vicinity, 
and  the  manufacture  of  lime  is  a  prominent  industry. 
It  possesses  a  city  hall,  a  Catholic  seminary,  several 
good  public  schools,  including  a  high  school,  and  daily 
and  weekly  newspapers.  Hannibal  College  was  estab- 
lished in  1868,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  South,  and  is  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition. The  present  population  is  about  fifteen  thou- 
sand, and  everything  about  the  city  wears  the  aspect 
of  industrial  prosperity. 


GRANT  HOTEI,, 

Cincinnati,  Illinoig, 

October  Fifth. 

I  should  fail  to  interest  the  reader  were  I  to  attempt 
a  description  of  some  of  the  villages  and  hamlets  passed 
in  the  descent  of  the  Mississippi.  Many  of  these  places 
do  not  possess  even  a  local  interest,  and  the  eye  soon 
wearies  of  tlie  air  of  desolation  and  monotony  that 


304  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

characterizes  the  majority  of  them.  The  guide-books 
dispose  of  these  doubtful  landmarks  with  a  little  dry 
detail,  and  rarely  recommend  the  tourist  to  allot  them 
the  compliment  of  a  passing  notice. 

One  peculiarity,  however,  may  be  noted,  and  that  is 
the  ambition  displayed  by  the  pioneers  of  civilization 
in  the  West  in  naming  villages  and  hamlets,  which, 
with  few  exceptions,  are  still  of  little  importance,  after 
the  great  cities  of  the  Eastern  States,  and  also  of  foreign 
lands.  These  names,  which  occupy  such  prominence 
on  the  maps,  excite  the  curiosity  of  the  traveler,  and 
when  the  reality  dawns  upon  him,  and  he  scans  their 
narrow  limits,  their  commonplace  architecture  and 
usually  unattractive  surroundings,  it  has  a  depressing 
effect,  and  he  wonders,  after  all,  if  there  is  anything  in 
a  name.  We  find  upon  the  map  the  name  and  indica- 
tion of  a  city,  but  it  proves  on  acquaintance  to  be  the 
most  uninteresting  of  hamlets,  though  bearing  so  re- 
spectable a  name  as  that  of  "  Cincinnati." 


CAP  Au  GRIS  HOUSE, 

Cap  Au  Gris,  Missouri, 

October  Sixth. 

We  had  resolved  upon  an  early  start  from  "  Cincin- 
nati," but  from  six  to  eight  o'clock  everything  was 
enveloped  in  a  dense  fog,  which  gradually  disappeared 
as  the  day  advanced.  At  nine  o'clock  we  pushed  off 
and  found  the  weather  favorable,  as  is  usually  the  case 
on  the  river  after  heavy  fogs. 

Disembarked  at  Clarksville,  on  the  west  or  Missouri 
side,  where  we  had  an  excellent  dinner  at  a  restaurant, 
and  then  walked  through  the  town,  which  we  discovered 


QUINCY  TO  SAINT  LOUIS.  3Q5 

to  be  a  place  of  some  enterprise.  It  is  forty  miles  be- 
low Hannibal,  and  one  hundred  and  two  above  Saint 
Louis.  We  noticed  a  bank,  several  flour-mills,  and 
other  factories. 

Hamburg,  Illinois,  and  Falmouth,  Missouri,  were 
seen,  but  from  their  appearance  from  the  river  we  con- 
cluded they  were  great  only  in  name. 

It  had  been  our  aim  to  make  a  landing  by  seven 
o'clock,  but  becoming  somewhat  confused  by  a  cluster 
of  islands  a  few  miles  below  Falmouth,  knowing  noth- 
ing of  the  river  or  country  in  our  front,  and  moreover, 
completely  enshrouded  in  darkness,  we  were,  for  nearly 
two  hours,  in  a  most  unenviable  position.  To  cap  the 
climax,  as  we  were  passing  the  last  island  of  the  group, 
a  large  steamer  was  sighted  coming  up  the  river  at  a 
high  rate  of  speed.  This  circumstance  gave  us  con- 
siderable anxiety  for  a  time,  as  we  were  unable  to  di- 
vine whether  her  course  would  be  to  the  right  or  left 
of  the  island.  Dropping  the  paddles  across  the  canoe, 
we  carefully  watched  the  movements  of  this  "  midnight 
apparition,"  as  she  came  tearing  along  unmindful  of 
the  peril  to  which  she  exposed  two  anxious  canoeists 
but  a  few  yards  ahead  of  her.  A  flash  of  lightning 
revealed  to  us  that  our  present  adversary  was  none 
other  than  our  old  up-river  acquaintance,  the  Gem  City, 
presumably  on  her  way  to  Saint  Paul.  It  was  a  beau- 
tiful thing — this  river  giant  with  her  red,  green  and 
electric  lights — beautiful  to  look  upon,  though,  under 
the  circumstances  of  our  relative  positions,  not  particu- 
larly inspiriting  to  the*  captain  and  crew  of  the  Alice, 
who  were  greatly  relieved  when  they  found  themselves 
rocking  in  the  wake  of  her  huge  sidewheels. 

It  was  now  after  eight  o'clock,  and  the  thought 


306  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

uppermost  in  our  minds  was  where  we  could  effect  a 
landing  and  secure  lodging,  for  the  current  was  so  strong 
and  the  banks  so  steep  and  crumbling  in  this  quarter 
as  to  render  disembarking  exceedingly  precarious. 
At  last  a  glimmering  light  was  discovered,  apparently 
at  a  farm-house  on  the  west  bank,  which  we  straight- 
way attempted  to  reach,  but  making  a  miscalculation  as 
to  the  strength  of  the  current,  which  was  very  power- 
ful, were  carried  a  considerable  distance  below,  striking 
the  shore  a  few  yards  above  another  farm-house  on  the 
same  side.  Everything  now  seemed  favorable,  but  it 
was  only  an  illusion.  On  approaching  the  house  we 
were  met  by  a  rough-looking  man  and  two  or  three 
boys,  accompanied  by  several  dogs — the  man  armed 
with  a  shot-gun.  Our  sudden  and  unseasonable  ap- 
pearance on  his  premises  had  aroused  suspicion,  and 
we  were  bluntly  told  that  he  had  no  accommodation 
for  "river  tramps."  We  endeavored  to  explain,  but 
to  no  purpose.  It  appeared  that  a  party  of  highway- 
men had  been  captured  some  days  previously  on  the 
islands  opposite  his  farm,  and  this  circumstance  un- 
doubtedly prompted  him  in  repeating  that  he  had  no 
lodgings  for  strangers.  Money  was  of  course  tendered, 
but  refused.  The  only  advantage  gained  from  this 
interview  was  the  cheering  information  that  Cap  Au 
Gris  was  fifteen  miles  below  ! 

Returning  to  our  canoe  we  pushed  off,  resolved  upon 
another  effort  to  pass  the  remainder  of  the  night  on 
shore.  Soon  a  light  was  seen  in  a  bend  on  the  Illinois 
side;  crossing  the  river,  we  found  an  easy  landing  and 
hastened  up  to  farm-house  "  No.  3."  Here  we  found 
more  men  and  fewer  dogs  than  on  the  Missouri  side; 
but  after  some  minutes'  parley  it  became  evident  that 


QUINCY  TO  SAINT  LOUIS.  3Q7 

our  mission  was  fruitless,  for  the  same  reason  appar- 
ently as  that  which  had  influenced  our  Missouri  friend, 
and  we  again  returned  reluctantly  to  our  canoe,  de- 
termined to  keep  a  sharp  look-out  for  Cap  Au  Gris, 
which,  to  our  great  joy,  was  reached  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore twelve  o'clock. 

We  will  not  say  anything  of  Cap  Au  Gris  that  is 
likely  to  make  its  enlightened  citizens  feel  uncomfort- 
able. We  were  glad  to  reach  its  hospitable  shores 
after  several  hours  of  peril  and  to  receive  a  welcome  at 
its  leading  "  hotel."  Let  us  simply  say,  therefore, 
that  it  stands  on  the  banks  of  the  mighty  Mississippi. 
It  is  to  be  hoped  it  will  always  stand  there.  But  it 
occurred  to  the  writer — from  the  rapidity  with  which 
the  river  is  now  cutting  down  its  banks — that  its 
scattered  remains  will  soon  be  found  not  far  from 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Broemj)-  -cfg!)tl)  Dcrg. 

EMPIRE  HOUSE, 

Alton,      Illinois, 

October  Seventh, 

Although  we  did  not  retire  to  our  rooms  at  Cap 
Au  Gris  until  after  midnight,  we  had  an  early  break- 
fast, for  there  was  much  to  be  seen  and  noted  in  our 
journey  to  Alton.  The  month  of  the  Illinois  River 
was  passed  between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock.  We  had 
very  naturally  looked  forward  to  the  confluence  of  this 
tributary  with  the  Mississippi  as  one  of  the  events  in 
our  voyage;  for  it  was  here,  two  hundred  years  ago, 
that  the  illustrious  La  Salle  and  his  heroic  followers 
first  beheld  the  Great  River,  in  which  their  highest 
hopes  for  New  France  were  centred. 


DOWN  THE  GREAT  LIVER. 

The  Illinois,  whose  entire  course  is  through  the 
State  of  the  same  name,  is  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  Kankakee  and  Des  Plaines  rivers  in  Grundy 
County,  about  forty-five  miles  south-west  of  Lake 
Michigan.  It  passes  Peoria,  the  most  important  city 
on  its  banks;  Pekin,  Havana,  Beardstown,  and 
Naples;  and  enters  the  Mississippi  between  Calhoun 
and  Jersey  counties,  twenty  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri.  It  is  about  five  hundred  miles  long, 
and  is  navigable  for  two  hundred  and  forty-five. 
Water  communication  between  the  great  lakes  and  the 
Mississippi  is  afforded  by  a  canal,  reaching  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Vermilion,  a  tributary  of  the  Illinois  in 
La  Salle  County — where  the  latter  is  obstructed  by 
rapids — to  Chicago,  a  distance  of  ninety-six  miles. 

Here  it  may  be  stated  that  the  name  of  this  State 
was  formerly  bestowed  upon  all  that  vast  tract  of 
country  which  lies  north  and  west  of  the  Ohio,  and 
was  derived  from  the  Illini,  or  Illinois,  a  tribe  which 
possessed  the  country  on  the  banks  of  the  Illinois 
River.  The  name  is  said  by  Hennepin  to  signify  a 
full-grown  man.  The  first  settlements  within  the 
present  limits  of  the  State  were  made  by  the  French. 
La  Salle  set  out  from  Canada  on  his  adventurous  en- 
terprise in  search  of  the  Mississippi  in  the  year  1680, 
in  company  with  Father  Hennepin,  and  descended  the 
Illinois  River  from  its  source.  He  then  returned  to 
Canada,  and  in  1682  came  back  with  a  number  of 
volunteers  and  founded  the  settlement  of  Kaskaskia — 
now  included  in  Randolph  County — and  others.  At 
the  commencement  of  the  eighteenth  century  these 
settlements  are  said  to  have  been  in  a  flourishing 
condition. 


QUINCY  TO  SAINT  LOUIS.  3Q9 

At  tlie  conclusion  of  hostilities  between  the  French 
and  English  in  1763,  the  Illinois  country,  with 
Canada,  was  ceded  to  the  British  Government.  In 
1778,  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  the  Virginia 
militia  made  an  incursion  through  the  Indian  country, 
and  subjugated  Kaskaskia  and  other  posts  of  the  Brit- 
ish on  the  Mississippi ;  and  during  the  same  year  the 
Legislature  of  Virginia  organized  a  county  in  this  re- 
mote region,  called  "Illinois."  This  territory  was 
afterwards  ceded  by  Virginia  to  the  United  States. 
In  1800,  it  was  included  within  the  limits  of  Indiana 
Territory,  and  at  that  time  the  country  that  forms  the 
present  State  of  Illinois  contained  about  three  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  After  the  year  1800,  the  popula- 
tion increased  rapidly  from  immigration.  In  1809  a 
territorial  government  was  established,  and  the  popu- 
lation the  following  year  amounted  to  over  twelve 
thousand.  In  1818,  Illinois  was  received  into  the 
Union  as  the  twenty -second  State. 

Nature  has  given  this  great  State  immense  advan- 
tages for  inland  navigation.  On  its  northern  borders 
it  has,  for  some  distance,  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan. 
On  its  north-west  frontier,  it  has  Rock  River,  a 
tributary  of  the  Mississippi.  On  its  whole  western 
front  it  is  washed  by  the  Mississippi,  and  on  its 
southern  by  the  Ohio.  On  the  east  it  is  bounded  by 
the  Wabash.  Through  its  centre  winds,  in  one  di- 
rection, the  Illinois;  and  in  another  direction  the  Kas- 
kaskia flows  through  the  State ;  and  such  is  the  inter- 
section of  Illinois  by  its  boatable  streams,  that  no 
town  in  it  is  far  from  a  point  of  river  communication 
either  with  Lake  Michigan,  the  Mississippi,  the  Ohio, 
or  the  Illinois.  The  Mississippi  forms  the  western 


310  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

boundary  of  the  State  through  its  whole  length  from 
north  to  south,  a  distance,  by  the  curvatures  of  the 
stream,  of  not  far  from  six  hundred  miles. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  whose  waters 
seemed  to  make  little  impression  on  the  majestic  river 
on  which  we  were  floating,  we  paddled  down  to  the 
city  of  Alton,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  Here  we 
found  convenient  accommodation  while  writing  up  our 
notes  of  the  journey. 

In  the  year  1807,  some  Frenchmen  from  Saint 
Louis,  erected  a  small  building  on  this  spot.  They 
traded  with  the  Indians,  and  the  solitary  building 
combined  store,  office  and  residence  for  these  pioneers 
during  several  months  of  succeeding  years,  until,  in 
1817,  the  site  was  selected  for  a  town,  and  named 
Alton.  It  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi about  twenty-four  miles  above  Saint  Louis.  In 
1870,  the  population  of  Alton  comprised  eight  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  and  sixty-five  souls,  and  at  pres- 
ent is  about  ten  thousand.  The  city  is  long  and  nar- 
row^its  length  along  the  river  being  nearly  three 
miles  and  its  average  breadth  only  one  mile  and  a  half. 

Alton  is  divided  about  its  centre  by  a  stream  called 
Piasa  Creek,  which  has  its  source  in  several  springs 
within  the  city  limits.  This  stream  is  arched  over 
and  is  used  as  a  main  sewer. 

The  chief  seats  of  business  are  found  in  the  valley 
of  this  stream,  and  in  the  bottom  lands  along  the  Mis- 
sissippi. Irregular  bluffs,  the  highest  being  about  two 
hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  above  the  river,  raise  their 
heads  on  each  side  of  the  valley,  and  give  a  picturesque 
appearance  to  the  scenery.  The  city  is  built  on  the 
limestone  rock,  which  is  honeycombed  with  numerous 


QUINCY  TO  SAINT  LOUIS.  311 

caves,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river  the  rock  forms 
perpendicular  bluffs. 

A  rich  farming  country  surrounds  Alton.  Three  rail- 
roads and  the  river  connect  it  with  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, and  manufactories  of  various  kinds  are  abundant. 
Among  these  are  iron-foundries,  woolen-mills,  flour- 
mills,  glass-works,  a  castor-oil-mill,  planing-mills, 
several  lumber-yards  and  steam  saw-mills,  and  agri- 
cultural implement  factories.  Lime  and  building 
stone  of  a  very  superior  quality,  are  largely  exported 
from  Alton.  A  steam-ferry  conveys  passengers  and 
freight  to  the  opposite  shore  of  the  river.  A  large 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  and  several  churches  of 
the  various  denominations  of  Protestants  are  con- 
spicuous objects  throughout  the  city.  The  State  Pen- 
itentiary, established  here  in  1827,  was  removed  some 
years  since  to  Joliet.  The  buildings  are  still  in  ex- 
istence and  were  utilized  during  the  Rebellion  as  a 
government  prison  of  war. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

THREE    DAYS    AT    SAINT   LOUIS. 

Trip  from  Alton — In  and  Around  the  City. 

much  has  been  said  by  early  and  recent 
travelers  concerning  the  turbulent  char- 
acter of  the  Missouri,  the  greatest  tribu- 
tary  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  that  he 
who  approaches  its  mouth  for  the  first  time 
in  a  frail  skiff  or  canoe  expects,  if  not  well 
on  his  guard,  to  be  sent  whirling  to  the  bottom 
— his  effects  mingling  with  the  muddy  current 
of  the  river.  Imagine,  therefore,  our  surprise,  on 
reaching  the  confluence  of  these  giants  of  running 
streams,  to  see  them  peacefully  unite  their  mighty 
floods,  creating  scarcely  a  ripple  on  the  surface !  One 
cannot  fail  to  be  impressed  with  the  majesty  of  the 
Mississippi  as  he  observes  the  ease  and  grace  with 
which  she  receives  her  numberless  tributaries,  many  of 
them  the  most  important  rivers  of  North  America. 
So  quietly  do  some  of  these  rivers  enter  the  parent  stream 
that  the  voyager  might  often  pass  their  point  of  junc- 
tion without  realizing  that  a  new  accession  had  been 
made  to  the  great  body  on  which  he  is  floating. 

The  Missouri,  as  we  have  said,  is  the  largest  and 
most  important  of  the  'many  tributaries  of  the  Missis- 
sippi.    It  takes  its  rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in 
(312) 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAIXT  LOUIS.  3 1 3 

the  State  of  Oregon,  over  three  thousand  miles  from 
its  mouth.  The  springs  which  give  rise  to  the  Mis- 
souri are  less  than  a  mile  distant  from  the  head-waters 
of  the  Columbia,  which  flows  west  into  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  Yellowstone  River  is  probably  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and  enters  it  from  the  south- 
west. At  its  junction  with  the  Missouri  it  is  eight 
hundred  yards  wide.  Steamboats  ascend  the  Missouri 
to  the  Yellowstone,  a  distance  of  over  eighteen  hundred 
miles.  The  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  are  five  hun- 
dred and  twenty-one  miles  from  its  source.  The  river 
descends  by  a  succession  of  rapids  and  falls  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty-seven  feet  in  about  sixteen  miles.  The 
lower  and  greatest  fall  has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of 
eighty-seven  feet.  The  principal  tributaries,  next  to 
the  Yellowstone,  are  the  Little  Missouri,  Big  Chey- 
enne, White  Earth,  Niobrara,  Nebraska,  Kansas  and 
Osage,  on  the  right ;  and  the  Milk,  Dakota,  Big  Sioux, 
Little  Sioux  and  Grand,  on  the  left.  These  tributaries 
are  each  navigable  from  one  hundred  to  eight  hun- 
dred miles.  The  Missouri  throughout  the  greater 
part  of  its  course  is  a  rapid  and  muddy  stream.  It  is 
over  half  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  through  the 
greater  part  of  its  course  it  is  wider.  In  the  winter  it 
is  frozen  so  hard  as  to  be  safely  crossed  by  loaded 
wagons  for  a  number  of  weeks. 

Missouri  was  visited  by  Marquette  and  Joliet  in 
1673,  and  the  first  settlement  was  made  at  Saint 
Genevieve,  twelve  miles  above  Chester,  in  1755.  The 
territory  was  purchased  by  the  United  States  from  the 
French,  in  1803,  as  a  part  of  Louisiana.  In  1821, 
Missouri  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  the  twenty- 
fourth  State.  Early  iu  the  Civil  War,  Governor 
18 


314  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Jackson  issued  a  proclamation  declaring  the  State  out 
of  the  Union.  Major-General  Freemont  declared 
martial  law  throughout  the  State  August  thirty-first, 
1861.  In  the  early  part  of  1862,  the  Confederate  troops 
held  half  of  Missouri.  The  Missourians  furnished 
108,773  soldiers  to  the  Federal  side  during  the  war. 

We  found  the  current  of  the  Mississippi  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri  much  stronger  than  we  had 
observed  it  to  be  since  passing  the  Keokuk  Rapids. 
Thus  favored  we  made  swift  progress  toward  Saint 
Louis,  touching  the  west  bank  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Union  Stock  Yards,  near  the  northern  limits  of  the  city, 
at  eleven  o'clock.  Here  we  dined  at  the  Union  Stock 
Yards'  Hotel,  afterward  visiting  the  yards  and  talking 
with  stock  dealers.  At  three  o'clock  we  were  again  in 
our  canoe  floating  along  the  city  front. 

About  a  mile  below  the  stock  yards  we  were  sig- 
naled from  the  shore  and  on  pulling  in  discovered  that 
a  number  of  friends  and  acquaintances,  together  with 
several  members  of  city  boat-clubs,  including  the 
"  Modocs,"  "  Excelsiors,"  and  "  Westerns,"  had  come 
up  the  river  to  escort  us  down  to  the  club-rooms  of 
the  "  Excelsiors,"  where  we  were  surprised  and  grati- 
fied to  learn  that  arrangements  had  been  made  to  re- 
ceive and  entertain  us. 

It  appeared  that  much  interest  had  been  awakened 
through  the  press  of  Saint  Louis,  which  had  followed 
us  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  and  back  to  our  last 
launch  at  Alton.  As  we  passed  the  shipping  moored 
to  the  wharves,  whistles  were  blown,  and  the  crowds  on 
shore  voiced  a  hearty  welcome  and  showed  a  kindly 
interest  in  our  undertaking,  which  we  had  not  looked 
for  and  which,  for  a  time,  quite  bewildered  us. 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAINT  LOUIS.  317 

In  reaching  the  "Excelsior"  boat-house  landing  at 
the  foot  of  Anna  Street,  we  were  met  by  representa- 
tives of  the  press,  who  were  in  pursuit  of  information 
bearing  upon  our  voyage  and  purpose. 

Desiring  quiet,  and  an  opportunity  to  see  and  study 
the  varied  industries  of  this  great  city,  we  avoided 
hotels,  and  sought  the  seclusion  of  a  private  residence, 
where  we  remained  three  days,  and  during  this  in- 
terval visited  nearly  every  object  of  interest  to  the 
tourist. 

Saint  Louis  is  to-day  the  great  metropolis  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley,  while  its  history  takes  us  back  to 
the  early  days  of  romance  and  discovery.  Both  Mar- 
quette  and  Joliet  explored  the  Mississippi  past  the 
city's  present  site,  and  were  followed  by  Hennepin  and 
Dugay.  La  Salle  in  1682  traversed  the  same  route. 
In  1764,  Pierre  Auguste  Laclede  ascended  the  river 
from  New  Orleans  and,  being  a  merchant,  established 
a  trading-post  on  the  site  of  the  present  city,  and 
erected  a  few  wooden  huts  near  the  present  Old  Market 
Square.  From  this  point  lead  ore  and  wild  game 
were  shipped  to  New  Orleans,  and  soon  after,  wheat, 
raised  in  Illinois,  was  added  to  the  commerce.  The 
furs  were  generally  shipped  to  Canada  and  thence  to 
Europe  ;  and  it  required  four  years  to  make  the  returns. 

In  1776,  Pierre  Laclede  Liguest  received  a  grant  of 
land  for  the  city  of  Saint  Louis,  so  named  in  honor  of 
King  Louis  XIV.  of  France.  Saint  Louis,  in  com- 
mon with  the  rest  of  Louisiana,  had  passed  under 
Spanish  rule  in  1769,  the  Spaniards  having  taken  pos- 
session a  year  later.  In  1780,  the  little  frontier  town 
was  attacked  by  fifteen  hundred  Indians  and  forty 
British,  and  suffered  severely  at  their  hands.  In  1785, 


318  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  Mississippi  rose  to  an  unprecedented  height  and, 
sweeping  over  its  banks,  then  unprotected  by  a  levee, 
did  great  damage  and  threatened  to  destroy  the  town. 

Up  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  the  in- 
habitants of  this  small  city  in  the  wilderness  were 
principally  French — a  happy,  careless  people,  who 
allowed  the  burdens  of  to-day  to  sit  as  lightly  as  pos- 
sible upon  them,  and  troubled  themselves  little  about 
those  of  to-morrow.  Yet,  situated  as  they  were,  many 
hundreds  of  miles  from  the  civilization  of  both  the  East 
and  the  South,  and  surrounded  by  the  hostile  bands 
of  Indians,  sometimes  with  starvation  staring  them  in 
the  face,  they  endured  incredible  hardships  and  suffer- 
ings, the  memory  of  which  is  still  retained  in  the  names 
of  some  of  the  older  streets. 

In  1790,  Dr.  Andrew  Todd  was  authorized  by  the 
Spanish  government  to  prosecute  an  extensive  trade 
with  the  Indians  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  made  his 
headquarters  at  Saint  Louis.  In  1803,  Louisiana 
having  been  ceded  to  the  United  States,  Saint  Louis 
came  under  the  control  of  this  country.  In  1808, 
the  Missouri  Fur  Company  was  founded  with  a  capi- 
tal of  $40,000.  One  year  later,  John  Jacob  Astor  and 
Company  set  out  from  Saint  Louis  on  an  expedition 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and  ten  years  laterJ;he  company 
established  a  commercial  house  in  the  city,  which  was 
mainly  the  source  of  Astor's  early  wealth.  The  Mis- 
souri Fur  Company  having  dissolved,  another  fur 
company  was  organized  in  1819.  In  1823,  General 
Ashley  entered  from  Saint  Louis  into  the  Indian 
trade  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  discovered  the 
famous  South  Pass  to  the  Pacific.  At  the  time  of 
General  Ashley  the  fur  business  was  a  very  perilous 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SALXT  LOUIS.  319 

one.  Two-fifths  of  the  men  perished,  some  being 
drowned,  others  killed  by  hostile  Indians,  and  still 
others  devoured  by  white  bears.  Yet  adventurous 
men  were  not  lacking  to  take  their  chances  in  the  pur- 
suit. .  This  branch  of  commerce,  however,  enriched  the 
little  town  and  gave  her  a  prosperous  foundation,  upon 
which  thefortuitouscircumstancesof  the  present  century 
favored  the  building  up  of  a  great  and  prosperous  city. 

During  the  early  period  of  her  history,  French  was 
almost  the  only  language  spoken  in  Saint  Louis,  and 
the  business  men  were  Frenchmen.  The  farmers  and 
boatmen  were  also  French,  and  agriculture  and  navi- 
gation were  carried  on  according  to  French  systems. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  town  cultivated,  in  common,  a 
large  field  to  the  west  of  the  city,  which  supplied  them, 
with  wheat  and  corn  for  bread.  They  had  also  numer- 
ous and  excellent  stock.  In  1807,  Saint  Louis  was  as 
much  a  French  village  in  population  and  general  ap- 
pearance as  though  located  in  France.  The  following 
is  a  description  of  the  dress  of  the  people  given  by  a 
historian  : 

"  The  dress  of  the  people,  male  and  female,  was  for- 
eign to  an  American.  The  voyageurs,  courieurs  du, 
bois,  and  the  farmers,  scarcely  ever  wore  a  hat,  but  tied 
around  their  heads  a  cotton  handkerchief.  The  white 
blanket-coat  was  the  general  wear  in  winter,  and  in 
summer  a  cotton  white  shirt,  or  red  woolen  one,  was 
about  all  the  garment  the  masses  wore,  except  panta- 
loons of  buckskin  in  the  winter,  and  colored  cotton  in 
the  summer.  In  the  cold  weather  the  masses  generally 
wore  moccasins  on  their  feet,  and  in  summer  they  used 
the  same  on  their  bare  feet.  It  was  common  f  »r  the 
males  to  wear  a  belt  around  them,  winter  and  summer, 


320  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

wherein  was  fastened  a  pouch,  generally  made  of  seal- 
skin with  the  hair  on,  containing  tobacco,  a  pipe,  and 
a  flint  and  steel ;  so  that  they  could  enjoy  the  genial 
luxury  of  smoking  at  any  place  or  time.  This  habit 
was  almost  universal  in  olden  times  with  the  French 
male  population.  In  the  belt  was  also  suspended  a 
butcher-knife,  and  often  a  small  hatchet.  Thus 
equipped,  a  Frenchman,  with  a  clay  pipe  in  his  mouth, 
was  prepared  for  the  Rocky  Mountains,  or  a  hunt  in 
the  neighborhood  for  raccoons  and  opossums." 

The  merchants  and  wealthy  classes  dressed  well,  and 
deported  themselves  like  gentlemen.  The  women 
were  always  dressed  neatly  and  tastefully,  and  paid 
careful  attention  to  their  appearance.  They  did  not 
labor  in  the  fields. 

The  dwellings  were  built  after  French  models,  and 
barns  stood  thick  on  the  present  Third  street.  These 
barns  were  very  simply  built  by  planting  cedar  posts 
in  the  ground,  filling  up  the  intervals  with  puncheons 
of  split  cottonwood,  and  thatching  the  roofs.  In  these 
barns  were  stowed  away  the  wheat  from  the  common 
field,  and  hay  cut  from  the  prairie. 

Small  round  towers  constructed  of  sods,  extended 
quite  around  the  town,  and  were  the  remains  of  forti- 
fications erected  diupng  the  Spanish  dominion  to  defend 
it  against  the  English  and  the  Indians.  A  bluff  of 
perpendicular  rock,  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  ex- 
tended from  the  foot  of  Chestnut  Street  up  the  river 
bank  and  was  not  removed  until  a  considerably  later 
period.  The  first  ferry,  which  was  established  in  1 796, 
was  composed  of  rude  canoes,  known  as  dug-outs. 
When  horses  and  wagons  crossed,  two  large  canoes 
were  lashed  together,  and  a  platform  placed  on  them. 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAINT  LOUIS.  321 

At  this  period  the  population  was  exclusively 
Catholic,  that  church  having  from  its  earliest  history 
planted  itself  in  the  town.  In  1818,  the  first  Baptist 
Church  was  built,  and  in  1820,  the  first  Methodist 
organized  and  the  first  Episcopal  Church  was  erected. 
In  1812,  the  first  session  of  the  State  legislature  was 
convened  at  Saint  Louis. 

The  city  at  the  beginning  of  the  century  depended 
almost  wholly  upon  the  fur  trade;  but  the  Saint  Louis 
of  to-day  profits  by  the  vast  mineral  and  agricultural 
resources  of  the  State,  and  by  the  commerce  of  the 
Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  which  is  now  a  compara- 
tively densely  populated  region.  When  La  Motte, 
the  royal  governor  of  Louisiana  appointed  in  1712, 
was  ordered  to  assist  the  agents  of  Crozat  in  establish- 
ing trading-posts  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries, 
he  wrote  back  to  the  ministry  :  "  I  have  seen  Crozat's 
instructions  to  his  agents.  I  thought  they  issued 
from  a  lunatic-asylum,  and  there  appeared  to  me  to 
be  no  more  sense  in  them  than  in  the  Apocalypse. 
What!  is  it  expected  that  for  any  commercial  or  profit- 
able purpose  boats  will  ever  be  able  to  run  up  the 
Mississippi  into  the  Wabash,  the  Missouri  or  the  Red 
River?  One  might  as  well  try  to  bite  a  slice  off  the 
moon  !  Not  only  are  those  rivers  as  rapid  as  the 
Rhone,  but  in  their  crooked  course  they  imitate  to  per- 
fection a  snake's  undulations.  Hence,  for  instance,  on 
every  turn  of  the  Mississippi  it  would  be  neces-ary  to 
wait  for  a  change  of  wind,  if  wind  could  be  had  ;  be- 
cause this  river  is  so  lined  with  thick  woods,  that  very 
little  wind  has  access  to  its  bed." 

Could  it  be  possible  for  the  shade  of  La  Motte  to 
look  down  upon  his  late  domain  from  his  celestial 


322  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

abode,  he  would  see  many  tilings  to  astonish  his 
ghostly  excellency,  all  accomplished  in  little  more  than 
a  century  and  a  half.  He  would  see  many  great  and 
populous  cities  on  the  hanks  of  the  Great  River,  and 
myriads  of  water  craft  of  every  description,  not  only 
proceeding  down  the  river  aided  by  the  current,  but 
strange  vessels,  unlike  anything  of  his  time,  puffing 
smoke  and  steam  out  of  their  nostrils,  proceeding 
directly  up  the  stream,  regardless  of  either  wind  or 
current,  with  a  speed  and  by  a  means  of  locomotion 
which  would  seem  to  him,  if  lie  possessed  only  his 
eighteenth  century  knowledge,  allied  to  sorcery. 

The  adaptation  of  steam  as  a  motive  power,  has 
made  Saint  Louis  what  it  is — the  great  inland  city  of 
the  continent.  Without  it,  she  may  have  sent  her 
loads  of  furs,  metals,  and  grain  down  the  river  to  New 
Orleans,  but  would  have  received  little  in  return.  In 
1817,  the  first  steamboat,  the  General  Pike  stopped 
at  her  landing.  Since  that  time,  her  progress  has 
been  rapid  and  certain.  In  1811,  her  population  was 
but  fourteen  hundred.  In  1850  it  had  increased  to 
nearly  seventy-five  thousand  ;  while  in  1 880  it  had  more 
than  quadrupled,  being  set  down  by  the  census  at 
350,522.  Now,  a  thousand  steamboats  speed  up  and 
down  the  Father  of  Waters  and  his  tributaries,  to  bring 
produce  to  be  reshipped  from  this  port. 

The  State  of  Missouri  is  very  rich  in  minerals. 
Lead,  kaolin,  iron,  copper,  zinc,  cobalt,  nickel  and 
magnesia,  all  furnish  material  to  keep  busy  the  im- 
mense and  numerous  factories  which  have  been  estab- 
lished in  Saint  Louis,  and  furnish  employment  to 
about  fifty  thousand  workmen.  A  large  portion  of 
Pilot  Knob,  which  is  five  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAINT  LOUIS.  323 

high,  is  pure  iron  ore,  and  it  is  estimated  that  a  single 
stratum  will  furnish  nearly  ten  millions  of  tons,  while 
there  are  several  strata  above,  and  at  least  one  below. 
The  iron  ore  in  the  region  of  Pilot  Knob  and  Iron 
Mountain  it  is  computed  will  furnish  a  million  tons 
per  year  of  manufactured  iron  for  the  next  two  hun- 
dred years.  And  most  of  the  iron  will  be  manufac- 
tured, or  at  least  shipped  from  Saint  Louis,  furnishing 
an  immense  business  and  a  proportionately  large  source 
of  revenue.  The  limestone,  sandstone,  and  granite  of 
the  State  also  furnish  excellent  building  material  for 
the  houses  and  blocks  of  the  city. 

The  agricultural  resources  of  Missouri  are  also  very 
great.  The  State  furnishes  large  numbers  of  hogs  and 
cattle,  which  are  slaughtered  and  disposed  of  in  Saint 
Louis;  while  breadstuff's,  provisions,  hay  and  lumber 
are  constantly  being  received  and  shipped.  It  is  one 
of  the  first  cities  in  the  Union  in  the  manufacture  of 
flour,  the  wheat  being  grown  on  the  fertile  prairie  land 
of  Missouri,  Iowa  and  Kansas. 

Saint  Louis  presents  a  fine  appearance  from  the 
river.  First,  there  is  upon  the  river  itself  a  city  of 
steamboats,  tugboats  and  flatboats,  ranged  in  front  of 
the  levee,  which  rises  high  above  low-water  mark, 
and  higher  than  all  but  the  highest  high-water  mark, 
reached,  perhaps,  but  once  in  a  century.  The  great 
Saint  Louis  Bridge  proudly  stretches  across- the  Mis- 
sissippi, making  three  broad  leaps  in  crossing.  The 
centre  span  is  five  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  width  ; 
and  the  two  side  ones  are  each  five  hundred  feet,  the 
arches  rising  sixty  feet,  and  permitting  the  largest 
steamboats  to  pass  under  them.  This  bridge  was  de- 
signed by  Captain  James  B.  Eads,  now  famous  as  the 


324  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

builder  of  the  Jetties  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi; 
was  begun  in  1869  and  completed  in  1874.  It  con- 
tains two  tiers  of  tracks,  the  lower  tier  being  for 
steam-cars  and  the  upper  one  for  horse-cars,  carriages 
and  pedestrians. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  river  rises,  terrace  after 
terrace,  the  Saint  Louis  of  to-day,  differing  no  less  in 
characteristics  and  people  than  in  size  from  the  Saint 
Louis  of  three-quarters  of  a  century  ago.  Front  street 
is  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  extends  along  the  levee. 
The  streets  running  north  and  south  are  numbered 
west  of  Front  street;  while  those  running  east  and 
west,  and  terminating  at  the  river,  have  arbitrary  names 
given  them.  Front,  Second,  and  Main  streets  are  the 
principal  wholesale  avenues,  and  are  lined  with  im- 
mense warehouses.  Fourth  street  contains  the  most 
fashionable  retail  stores,  and  is  the  favorite  prome- 
nade. The  longest  street  is  Grand  avenue,  running 
for  twelve  miles  parallel  with  the  river.  Thirty  years 
ago  Carondelet  was  a  separate  suburb  on  the  river 
bank,  to  the  southward,  but  is  now  included  in  the 
city,  the  entire  intervening  space  having  been  built 
upon.  Washington  and  Chanteau  avenues,  Lucas 
Place,  and  Pine,  Olive  and  Locust  streets  contain  the 
finest  residences. 

The  Missouri  Gazette  was  the  first  newspaper  estab- 
lished west  of  the  Mississippi,  having  made  its  appear- 
ance in  July,  1808,  its  publisher  being  Joseph  Charles. 
This  was  the  beginning  of  the  Missouri  Republican, 
of  which  Mr.  Charles  was  one  of  the  proprietors  up  to 
the  time  of  his  death.  The  second  weekly  appeared  in 
1815.  There  are  now  more  than  sixty  papers  issued 
in  the  city,  including  dailies,  weeklies  and  monthlies. 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAINT  LOUIS.  325 

They  are  among  the  most  ably  conducted  and  widely 
circulated  in  the  country.  The  Post  Dispatch  is  one 
of  the  youngest  of  these,  and  at  the  same  time  one  of 
the  brightest  and  most  enterprising.  It  prints  three  dif- 
ferent editions,  and  is  prompt  in  securing  the  freshest 
and  most  readable  news.  The  Missouri  Republican  is 
not  only  the  oldest  paper  of  the  city,  but  one  of  the 
leading  papers  of  the  country.  It  represents  the  in- 
terests of  the  Democratic  party  and  has  a  very  large 
circulation.  The  Globe-Democrat  is  Republican  in  its 
politics  and  a  power  in  the  party.  The  Journal  and 
Times  are  both  enterprising  daily  papers,  and  there 
are,  in  addition,  two  German  dailies,  three  German 
weeklies,  one  French  weekly,  and  one  Spanish  news- 
paper, published  monthly.  Agricultural,  literary,  re- 
ligious, commercial,  legal,  medical  and  educational 
publications  complete  the  list. 

The  Catholic  church,  although  it  has  lost,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  the  supremacy  which  it  first  held  over  the 
city,  is  still  represented  by  a  large  class  of  the  popula- 
tion, and  has  a  number  of  sacred  buildings,  while  there 
are  numerous  charitable  institutions  under  its  control. 
The  Cathedral,  in  Walnut  street,  between  Second  and 
Third,  is  one  of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  structures  in 
the  city.  Its  lofty  spire  contains  a  fine  chime  of  bells. 
The  Sisters  of  Charity  conduct  a  hospital  which  has 
accommodation  for  four  hundred  patients ;  and  there 
are  also  a  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  and  a  Convent  of 
the  Good  Shepherd  for  the  reformation  of  fallen  women, 
in  charge  of  Catholic  orders. 

Germans  form  a  goodly  proportion  of  the  population 
of  the  city,  and  are,  for  the  most  part,  orderly,  indus- 
trious and  intelligent.  During  the  war  of  the  Rebel- 


326  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

lion  they  proved  themselves  thoroughly  loyal  to  the 
National  Government  and  secured  Saint  Louis  and, 
through  it,  the  State  from  the  evils  of  secession  ;  and 
in  this  city  the  first  military  movements  of  the  West 
were  made.  The  population  is  largely  made  up  of 
immigrants  from  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey, 
these  States  being  on  the  same  parallels  as  Missouri, 
although  latterly  other  sections  of  the  country  have 
become  represented. 

No  one  who  visits  Saint  Louis  should  fail  to  see 
Shaw's  Garden,  one  of  the  most  interesting  parks  in 
the  country,  embracing  an  area  of  one  hundred  and 
four  acres.  It  is  owned  and  has  been  planned  and 
perfected  by  Mr.  Shaw,  who  intends  to  present  it  to 
the  city.  Ten  acres  are  devoted  to  flowers  and  shrub- 
bery of  every  known  variety,  a  number  of  greenhouses 
sheltering  tropical  plants  and  other  exotics.  Fruits 
of  every  kind  occupy  six  acres,  and  twenty-five  acres 
furnish  ample  space  for  every  kind  of  ornamental  tree 
which  will  grow  in  this  latitude.  The  labyrinth  leads 
through  a  maze  of  hedge-bordered  pathways  to  a  sum- 
mer-house in  the  centre;  and  there  are  a  museum  and 
a  botanical  library  in  connection  with  the  Garden. 
During  the  week  the  grounds  are  open  to  the  public,  but 
on  Sunday  only  strangers  are  admitted,  who  must  pro- 
cure tickets  for  the  privilege. 

The  annual  exhibition  of  the  Agricultural  and  Me- 
chanical Association  of  Saint  Louis  is  the  great  feature 
of  the  city.  Fair  week,  which  is  usually  the  first 
week  in  October,  sees  the  city  filled  with  strangers 
from  every  section  of  the  State.  The  fair-grounds  em- 
brace eighty-five  acres,  and  are  three  miles  north-west 
of  the  Court  House. 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAINT  LOUIS.  327 

Saint  Louis  has  two  thousand  acres  of  public  parks, 
admirably  laid  out  and  adorned  with  fountains  and 
statuary.  Forest  Park  embraces  one  thousand  three 
hundred  and  fifty  acres,  and  is  four  miles  west  of  the 
Court  House.  The  Des  Perces  River  runs  through  it, 
and  it  is,  to  a  great  extent,  still  covered  with  the  primi- 
tive forest.  Northern  Park,  containing  one  hundred 
and  eighty  acres,  is  on  the  bluffs  north  of  the  city. 
There  are  a  number  of  smaller  parks  or  squares  scat- 
tered through  the  city,  prominent  among  which  is 
Lafayette  Park,  containing  bronze  statues  of  Washing- 
ton and  Benton.  The  memory  of  Benton  is  greatly 
honored,  Saint  Louis  being  very  proud  of  its  citizen, 
the  statesman  who  for  so  many  years  called  this  city 
his  home. 

Saint  Louis  is  a  handsome  city,  architecturally 
speaking,  though  there  is  a  lack  of  that  grand  archi- 
tectural display  which  is  found  in  some  of  our  western 
cities.  The  buildings  are  chiefly  of  stone  or  brick,  and 
are,  many  of  them,  fine,  though,  as  a  whole,  they  are 
substantially  rather  than  showily  built.  The  finest 
public  edifice  is  the  Court  House,  occupying  an  entire 
square,  and  built  of  Genevieve  limestone.  It  is  in 
the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  surmounted  by  a  lofty  iron 
dome,  and  each  front  is  adorned  with  a  handsome 
Doric  portico.  The  Chamber  of  Commerce  is  the 
finest  building  of  the  kind  in  the  country.  It  is  built 
of  gray  limestone,  is  two  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet 
long,  one  hundred  and  eighty-seven  feet  wide,  and 
five  stories  in  height.  The  new  Custom  House  and 
Post  Office,  at  the  corner  of  Eighth  and  Olive  streets, 
is  a  very  handsome  edifice,  occupying  an  entire  block. 
It  is  built  of  Maine  granite,  with  rose-colored  granite 


328  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

trimmings,  and  its  cost  was  about  five  million  dollars. 
The  Republican  building,  at  the  corner  of  Third  and 
Chestnut  streets,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  com- 
pletely appointed  newspaper  offices  in  the  country, 
and  speaks  well  for  the  financial  success  of  that  news- 
paper. The  city  contains  many  handsome  churches, 
among  which  the  Jewish  Temple,  at  the  corner  of 
Seventeenth  and  Pine  streets,  is  one  of  the  most  con- 
spicuous for  its  beauty. 

The  Elevator,  at  the  foot  of  Ashley  street,  is  one  of 
the  largest  in  the  country,  having  a  capacity  of  two 
millions  of  bushels.  The  levee  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  features  of  the  city.  It  is  a  hundred  feet 
wide,  facing  the  river  with  a  solid  wall  of  masonry; 
and  here  we  find  continual  bustle  and  the  busy  activity 
of  an  immense  commerce.  In  front  of  this  levee,  from 
early  spring  until  early  winter,  while  navigation  is 
open  upon  the  Mississippi,  immense  numbers  of  boats 
are  daily  seen,  loading  and  unloading,  discharging  and 
taking  on  board  their  many  passengers,  coming  and 
going.  While  the  river  is  locked  by  ice  during  a 
brief  season  in  the  winter,  these  boats  are  securely 
fastened  to  the  levee.  Yet,  with  all  the  precautions 
which  may  be  taken,  when  the  ice  breaks  up  in  early 
spring,  it  is  very  common  for  some  of  them  to  be 
crushed  like  egg-shells  between  the  floes. 

Saint  Louis  is  the  great  commercial  depot  of  the 
Mississippi.  Lying  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  vast 
Mississippi  Valley,  it  is  connected  by  commerce  with 
all  the  towns  and  cities  above  and  below  it  and  on  the 
remotest  tributaries  of  the  Great  River.  As  the  West 
is  developed,  so  will  the  magnitude  and  prosperity  of 
this  city  increase.  Lying  equally  between  the  North 


THREE  DAYS  AT  SAINT  LOUIS.  329 

and  South,  the  East  and  West,  she  will  always  main- 
tain her  present  cosmopolitan  character,  uniting  people 
of  all  sections  and  all  nationalities;  and  in  this  com- 
mingling, and  eventual  blending  of  families  and  races, 
she  will  become  more  thoroughly  American,  in  the 
broadest  signification  of  that  word, 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

SAINT    LOUIS    TO    CAIRO. 

<£igl)ti]- first  Daij 

BOARDING  HOUSE, 

Crystal    City,    Missouri, 

October  10,  1881. 

/ITII  the  feeling  that  three  days  had  heen 
pleasantly  and  profitably  spent  in  the 
metropolis  of  the  Valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, we  called  for  our  canoe  at  the 
boat-house  of  the  "Excelsiors,"  and  pushing 
her  once  more  into  the  river  "set  sail  "  for 
the  tropical  gulf.  The  weather  now  seemed 
settled,  the  temperature  not  having  materially 
changed  since  leaving  Saint  Paul,  as  our  progress  in 
the  descent  of  the  river  was  about  equal  to  the  advance 
of  the  season. 

Our  seventy-ninth  day  was  not  marked  by  anything 
of  especial  interest.  Went  ashore  but  twice  between 
Saint  Louis  and  Crystal  City,  and  then  for  a  few  mo- 
ments only.  Had  luncheon  in  the  canoe  in  order  to 
save  time.  Distance  covered  between  ten  o'clock  in 
the  morning  and  five  in  the  afternoon,  forty-three 
miles. 

Crystal  City  is  a  stirring  village  of  Jefferson  County, 
Missouri,  situated  on  a  small  tributary  of  the  Missis- 
(330) 


SAINT  LOUIS  TO   CAIRO.  331 

sippi,  about  a  mile  from  their  junction.  It  has  a  popu- 
lation of  nearly  five  hundred,  and  is  engaged  chiefly  m 
the  manufacture  of  plate  glass.  We  were  much  im- 
pressed with  the  enterprise  of  this  place,  and  trust  that 
as  the  tide  of  its  prosperity  rolls  on  it  will  feel  justified 
in  erecting  a  commodious  hotel,  thus  sparing  future 
visitors  the  annoyance  to  which  we  were  subjected  of 
canvassing  the  entire  village,  for  a  night's  lodging, 
which  resulted  in  securing  a  bed  in  a  room  already 
tenanted  by  two  men  and  three  dogs. 


OTtgljtg-setonl) 


ST.  JAMES  HOTEL, 

Chester,   Illinois, 

October  Eleventh. 


Some  of  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Lower 
Mississippi  now  began  to  force  themselves  upon  our 
attention.  Among  the  obstructions  observed  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  are  "  planters,"  "  sawyers," 
and  "  wooden  islands,"  which  are  frequently  the  cause 
of  injury  and  even  destruction  to  the  boats.  "Planters" 
are  large  bodies  of  trees  firmly  fixed  by  their  roots  in 
the  bottom  of  the  river,  in  a  perpendicular  manner,  and 
appearing  not  more  than  a  foot  above  the  surface  of 
the  water  when  at  its  medium  height.  So  firmly  are 
they  rooted  that  the  largest  boats  coming  in  contact 
with  them  will  hardly  move  them  ;  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, they  materially  injure  the  boats.  "Sawyers"  are 
also  large  trees,  fixed  less  perpendicularly  in  the 
stream,  yielding  to  the  pressure  of  the  current,  disap- 
pearing and  reappearing  at  intervals,  and  having  a 
motion  similar  to  the  upright  saw  of  a  saw-mill,  from 
which  they  take  their  name.  These  obstacles  to  navi- 
19 


332  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

gallon  have  seldom  been  seen  of  late  years,  as  there  are 
several  government  snag-boats  constantly  on  the  alert 
for  them,  and  as  soon  as  discovered  they  are  promptly 
removed.  "  Wooden  islands"  are  formed  by  driftwood, 
which  from  various  cauces  has  been  arrested  and  matted 
together  in  different  sections  of  the  river.  Formerly, 
these  impediments  were  the  cause  of  heavy  losses  to 
the  merchant,  and  danger  to  the  traveler;  but  since 
the  introduction  of  the  steamboat  and  the  improve- 
ment of  the  channel,  accidents  of  this  nature  are  not  of 
frequent  occurrence. 

The  Mississippi  and  its  principal  tributaries  give  a 
peculiar  cast  to  the  mode  of  traveling  and  transporta- 
tion, and  have  created  a  peculiar  class  of  men  called 
boatmen.  Craft  of  every  description  are  found  on 
these  waters.  Here  are  still  found  the  huge,  shapeless 
masses  denoting  the  infancy  of  navigation,  and  the 
powerful  and  magnificent  steamship  which  marks  its 
perfection;  together  with  all  the  intermediate  forms 
between  these  extremes.  The  most  primitive  of  all 
water-craft  is  the  "ark  "or  flatboat,  an  immense  frame 
of  square  timbers  with  a  roof.  It  is  in  shape  a  paral- 
lelogram, and  lies  upon  the  water  like  a  log;  it  hardly 
feels  the  oar,  and  trusts  to  the  current  mainly  for  mo- 
tion. It  is  usually  fifteen  feet  wide  and  from  fifty  to 
eighty  feet  long.  These  arks  are  often  filled  with  the 
goods  and  families  of  emigrants,  carrying  even  their 
domestic  animals  and  wagons.  They  are  also  fre- 
quently used  as  itinerant  stores,  and  are  filled  with  the 
various  kinds  of  goods  which  are  found  most  salable 
in  the  river  towns.  Sometimes  they  are  fitted  up  as  the 
workshops  of  artificers,  who  readily  find  employment 
hi  the  villages  and  hamlets  along  the  route  selected. 


SAINT  LOUIS  TO  CAIRO.  333 

Barges  and  keel  boats  are  also  frequently  observed  ; 
skiffs,  dugouts  or  pirogues,  made  of  hollowed  logs, 
and  numerous  other  vessels  for  which  language  has  no 
name  and  the  sea  no  parallel.  Since  the  advent  of  the 
steamboat  much  of  the  miscellaneous  craft  has  dis- 
appeared, and  the  number  of  river  boatmen  has  de- 
creased by  many  thousands. 

Favored  with  pleasant  weather,  our  trip  from  Crystal 
City  to  Chester  was  greatly  enjoyed.  Halted  at  Saint 
Genevieve,  on  the  west  bank,  where  we  dined  and 
spent  an  hour  on  shore.  This  is  the  oldest  settlement 
in  Missouri,  and  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  Valley  of  the 
Mississippi,  having  been  founded  by  Marquette  in 
1673.  The  surface  is  broken  and  hilly  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  town,  and  is  noted  chiefly  for  its  mines  of  lead 
and  copper.  It  is  an  important  river  station,  ship- 
ping the  iron  products  of  Iron  Mountain,  and  the 
fruits,  wines  and  cereals  of  the  surrounding  country. 

Leaving  Saint  Genevieve,  we  ran  down  to  Chester 
on  the  left  bank,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  River, 
a  considerable  stream,  navigable  at  high  water  to  Van- 
dalia,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  its  confluence 
with  the  Mississippi.  The  banks  of  the  Kaskaskia, 
and  those  of  its  tributaries,  are  generally  fertile  and 
studded  with  rich  and  flourishing  cities  and  vil- 
lages. The  surface  is  usually  undulating  and  is  well 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  corn,  wheat,  rye,  oats  and 
tobacco.  Cotton  is  raised  to  some  extent  in  the  lower 
part  of  its  course. 

Chester  is  the  county-seat  of  Randolph  County,  Illi- 
nois; is  seventy-six  miles  below  Saint  Louis,  and  is 
the  shipping-point  of  the  Chester  coal-fields.  It  is  an 
incorporated  city;  has  eight  churches,  a  bank,  two 


334  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

weekly  papers,  rolling-mills,  foundries,  flour-mills,  an 
elevator,  and  claims  a  population  of  three  thousand. 

<£tgl)tn-tl)tr&  Dan. 

FARM  HOUSE, 

Neely's  Landing,  Missouri, 

October  Twelfth. 

Resumed  our  voyage  at  eight  o'clock.  Halted  at 
Wilkinson's  Landing,  a  small  hamlet  fifteen  miles  be- 
low Chester  on  the  opposite  shore.  Stopped  a  few 
minutes  at  Grand  Tower,  forty  miles  below  Chester. 
This  natural  rock-tower,  rising  from  the  bed  of  the 
river  near  its  western  bank,  sixty  feet  above  the 
water-level,  gives  its  name  to  the  town  on  the  Illinois 
side. 

"In  some  former  period,"  observes  Schoolcraft, 
"  there  has  been  an  obstruction  in  the  channel  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  or  near  Grand  Tower,  producing  a  stag- 
nation of  the  current  at  an  elevation  of  about  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  feet  above  the  present  ordinary  water- 
mark. This  appears  evident  from  the  general  elevation 
and  direction  of  the  hills,  which  for  several  hundred 
miles  above  are  separated  by  a  valley  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  miles  wide,  that  deeply  embosoms  the  cur- 
rent of  the  Mississippi."  On  the  rocky  and  abrupt 
fronts  of  some  of  these  hills  a  series  of  water-lines  are 
distinctly  seen,  and  are  uniformly  parallel ;  and  at 
Grand  Tower  these  water-lines  are  found  about  one 
hundred  feet  above  the  top  of  the  stratum  in  which 
petrifactions  of  the  madrepore  and  various  fossil  remains 
are  deposited.  Here  the  limestone  rocks,  by  their  pro- 
jection towards  each  other,  indicate  that  they  have,  at 
a  remote  period,  been  severed,  either  by  some  couvul- 


SAINT  LOUIS  TO  CAIRO.  335 

sion  of  nature,  or  by  the  action  of  water,  and  that  a 
passage  has  been  made  through  them  giving  vent  to 
the  stagnant  waters  on  the  prairie  lands  above,  and 
opening  for  the  Mississippi  its  present  channel. 

The  bank  of  the  Mississippi  from  near  Grand  Tower, 
extending  up  on  the  Missouri  side  of  the  river,  is  suf- 
ficiently elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  State  of 
Illinois  to  have  formed  a  western  shore  of  an  expanse 
of  water  covering  the  entire  area  of  that  State.  And 
the  alluvial  deposits,  of  which  the  Illinois  prairies  are 
formed,  are  composed  of  fine,  hard  and  compact  layers 
of  earth,  similar  to  those  at  the  bottom  of  mill-ponds 
or  of  water  long  stagnant. 

We  tried  very  hard  towards  evening  to  find  a  vil- 
lage on  the  east  bank  of  which  we  had  heard,  and 
which  is  still  placed  on  the  maps  as  Preston,  but  a 
diligent  search  and  much  inquiry  failed  to  discover 
anything  but  a  single  deserted  house,  standing  upon 
the  brink  of  the  crumbling  bank  of  the  river.  We 
subsequently  learned  that,  lacking  the  protection  of  a 
levee,  Preston  had  long  since  yielded  to  the  ravages  of 
the  invading  Mississippi. 

Disembarked  at  half-past  six  o'clock  and  arranged 
to  spend  the  night  with  the  family  of  Mr.  John  Shin- 
naman,  an  ex-Union  soldier  who  returned  to  his  farm 
at  the  close  of  the  war.  In  referring  to  his  present 
financial  condition,  Mr.  Shinnaman  was  far  from  hope- 
ful. He  explained  that  about  a  year  ago  he  thought 
of  selling  his  farm,  at  that  time  comprising  over  five 
hundred  acres,  and  investing  the  proceeds  in  goods 
with  which  he  proposed  to  open  a  store ;  but  his  wife 
opposed,  had  little  faith  in  the  store,  and  declined  to 
sign  the  deed  with  him  conveying  their  real  estate  to 


336  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

other  parties.  Since  then  the  river  has  cut  acre  after 
acre  away  from  his  possessions,  until  at  the  time  of  our 
visit  not  more  than  seventy-five  acres  out  of  the  orig- 
inal five  hundred  were  left.  It  is  safe  to  assume  that 
in  future  Mrs.  Shinnaman  will  sign  all  papers  con- 
veying property  to  anxious  purchasers  with  promptness 
and  despatch. 

<£:gl)tn-fotirtl)  JDou 

WOODWARD  HOUSE, 

Commerce,    Missouri, 

October  Thirteenth. 

We  were  awakened  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  by 
the  farm  hands,  who  were  up  and  doing  at  a  much 
earlier  hour.  A  good  old-fashioned  farm-house  break- 
fast was  served  at  half-past  six,  reminding  me  of  boy- 
hood days  and  the  old  house  on  the  hill  in  northern 
New  York.  Excellent  coifee,  milk  and  cream  fur- 
nished by  milkmen  who  had  not  yet  learned  to  sing, 
"Shall  we  gather  at  the  river;"  corn-bread,  bacon  and 
eggs,  and  such  fruits  and  vegetables  as  are  usually 
found  on  the  farms  of  Missouri. 

Returned  to  our  canoe  at  eight  o'clock.  Mr.  Shin- 
naman and  family  and  several  of  their  neighbors  and 
friends  accompanied  us  to  the  landing  to  see  us  off. 
Weather  favorable  until  eleven  ;  then  wind  up  stream 
and  comparatively  slow  progress. 

Landed  at  Cape  Girardeau  for  dinner  and  to  attend 
to  correspondence.  Found  the  Cape  astir  with  a  circus 
and  county  fair,  a  combination  almost  too  much  for  a 
town  of  its  magnitude.  The  circus,  however,  I  learned 
was  very  well  patronized,  as  is  usually  the  case,  but  at 
the  expense  of  the  other  enterprise.  We  were  driven 
from  the  river  at  Commerce  by  a  severe  wind  and  rain 


SAINT  LOUIS  TO  CAIRO.  337 

storm  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  We  were  glad, 
indeed,  to  find  comfortable  quarters  at  Commerce,  and 
had  the  satisfaction  of  entering  in  our  log  forty-three 
miles  as  the  day's  run. 

Commerce,  the  capital  of  Scott  County,  Missouri,  is 
one  hundred  and  fifty-four  miles  below  Saint  Louis. 
It  is  a  pleasant  village  of  five  hundred  inhabitants, 
and  is  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  flour,  leather  and 
pottery. 


HOTEL  DE  WINTER, 

At    Cairo,    Illinois, 

October  Fourteenth. 

It  was  necessary  to  make  an  early  start  in  the  morn- 
ing, as  we  were  expecting  mail  at  Cairo  and  desired  to 
reach  that  city  before  the  hour  of  closing  the  post- 
office,  and,  besides,  we  were  eager  to  see  La  Belle 
Riviere,  the  grand  old  Ohio,  and  witness  the  greeting 
of  this  greatest  of  its  eastern  tributaries  to  the  Father 
of  Waters.  Consequently  we  were  on  the  water  soon 
after  seven  o'clock  and  making  good  progress  towards 
our  destination.  A  stout  use  of  our  paddles,  aided  by 
a  current  of  four  and  a  half  miles  per  hour,  brought  us 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  at  two  o'clock,  thereby 
scoring  to  our  credit  forty-three  miles  in  six  hours, 
allowing  one  hour  on  shore  for  luncheon. 

At  one  o'clock  we  came  to  what  is  styled  in  river 
parlance  a  long  reach,  from  the  head  of  which  we  could 
plainly  see  Cairo  resting  upon  the  flat  prairie  in  the 
distance.  Across  the  southern  extremity  of  this  prairie 
city  could  be  seen  the  placid  Ohio  rolling  its  waters 
along  towards  its  confluence  with  its  mighty  rival,  the 
Mississippi.  A  few  moments  more  and  our  little  craft 


338  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

was  whirled  into  its  comparatively  quiet,  clear  current; 
and  with  our  prow  pointed  northward  we  pulled 
quickly  up  to  the  Cairo  steamboat-landing  and  dis- 
embarked. 

At  the  wharf  we  were  met  by  several  citizens,  in- 
cluding Captain  W.  P.  Halliday  and  the  editor  of  the 
Argus-Journal,  the  former  of  whom  is  perhaps  the 
most  prominent  representative  of  the  city's  commercial 
interests. 

Cairo  occupies  the  extreme  southern  point  of  the 
State  of  Illinois  at  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Ohio  rivers,  being  situated  on  a  peninsula  jutting  out 
between  them  a  little  above  their  point  of  union.  Mar- 
quette  and  Joliet  were  the  first  white  men  of  whom 
there  is  any  record,  who  visited  the  Mississippi  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Ohio,  which  was  then  known  as 
the  Wabash.  In  1673,  they  passed  the  spot  where  the 
latter  mingled  its  bright  waters  with  the  turbid  flood 
of  the  former;  and  after  descending  the  Mississippi  to 
latitude  33°,  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas, 
they  reversed  their  course,  and  in  ascending  the  river 
repassed  the  same  spot.  It  is  possible  that  the  Jesuit 
missionaries  had  preceded  them,  for  at  the  time  of  their 
visit  a  number  of  missions  had  already  been  estab- 
lished among  the  Indians  through  the  Illinois  country. 

Following^  Marquette  and  Joliet  came  Hennepin  and 
Dugay  in  1681 ;  while  in  1682,  La  Salle  took  the  same 
route  down  the  Mississippi,  delaying  for  a  few  days  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  to  make  arrangements  for  trade 
and  intercourse  with  the  Indians. 

During  the  first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century  the 
Ohio  River  was  little  known,  all  that  portion  of  it  be- 
low the  mouth  of  the  Wabash  being  considered  a  con- 


SAINT  LOUIS  TO  CAIRO.  339' 

tinuation  of  the  latter  tributary;  and  above  that  point 
the  Ohio,  known  only  by  report,  was  spoken  of  as  the 
lliverof  the  Iroquois.  It  was  not  un,til  1749  that  the 
river  was  regularly  explored  by  the  French  and  traced 
to  its  sources  in  the  Alleghenies. 

No  settlement  seems  to  have  been  made  on  the 
present  site  of  Cairo  during  the  French  dominion  in 
America.  It  was  not  even  considered  an  eligible  place 
for  a  trading-post,  mission  or  fort;  therefore  all  these 
were  located  both  above  and  below  it  on  the  Mississippi, 
and  also  on  the  Ohio.  It  was  not  until  the  French 
had  withdrawn  from  the  Ohio  River  and  ceded  Louisi- 
ana to  the  United  States,  and  the  Anglo-Saxon  race 
had  begun  to  push  westward,  and  was  already  figur- 
ing with  its  characteristic  alertness  of  intellect  on  the 
great  future  of  our  country,  that  this  locality  was 
selected  as  a  site  for  a  town. 

Cairo  is  said  to  be  the  geographical  centre  of  the 
trade  and  population  of  our  country.  At  the  junction 
of  two  of  its  greatest  rivers  it  would  naturally  seem  to 
invite  commerce,  and  also  seem  to  occupy  the  very 
position  for  the  metropolis  of  the  Mississippi  Valley. 
So  reasoned  the  early  settlers,  and  Cairo  sprang  into 
existence.  But  beyond  its  geographical  position  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  great  val- 
ley of  the  Mississippi,  it  possessed  no  natural  advan- 
tages. The  ground  was  low  and  annually  overflowed 
during  the  spring  freshets.  Hence  undoubtedly  its 
name  of  Cairo,  after  that  Egyptian  city  which  is  not 
unfrequently  submerged  by  the  Nile.  Hence  also  the 
name  of  "Egypt"  contemptuously  bestowed  upon 
southern  Illinois. 

Charles  Dickens  visited  the  little  town  in  1842,  and 


340  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER, 

described  it  in  no  flattering  terms,  as  low  and  marshy, 
and  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  inundated  to  the 
house-tops — a  breeding-place  of  fevers,  ague  and  death. 
No  doubt  he  looked  at  much  which  he  saw  in  America 
at  that  date  through  blue  spectacles.  Nevertheless, 
Cairo  was  certainly  not  a  paradise  when  Dickens  visited 
it.  Since  that  time  large  sums  of  money  have  been 
expended  in  improvements,  chiefly  in  the  construction 
of  levees  to  protect  it  from  inundation  ;  but  trade  and 
commerce  have  in  a  great  measure  passed  it  by  and 
established  their  headquarters  at  Saint  Louis,  further 
up  the  Mississippi  and  just  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri.  Steamers  upon  the  Mississippi  and  the  Ohio 
make  Cairo  one  of  their  regular  stopping-places,  and  a 
number  of  railroads  centre  here.  The  Chicago  divis- 
ion of  the  Illinois  Central  terminates  at  Cairo.  The 
" Great  Jackson  Route,"  or  the  Chicago,  Saint  Louis 
and  New  Orleans  Railroad — one  of  the  main  trunk 
lines  between  the  Northern  and  Southern  States — 
passes  through  the  town.  It  is  also  connected  by 
steam  ferry  with  Columbus,  Kentucky,  the  northern 
terminus  of  the  Mobile  and  Ohio  road.  If  railroads 
and  river  facilities  could  make  a  town,  then  surely 
Cairo  ought  to  be  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in  the 
West, 

During  the  Civil  War  it  had  a  brief  period  of  pros- 
perity. General  Grant  established  his  headquarters 
here  in  1861,  when  he  was  appointed  brigadier-general 
of  volunteers,  and  it  was  the  base  of  his  first  military 
operations.  When  Grant,  by  reason  of  his  brilliant 
achievements  at  Forts  Henry  and  Donelson,  was  pro- 
moted to  the  command  of  the  Military  District  of 
Tennessee,  General  W.  T.  Sherman  succeeded  to  the 


SAHTT  LOUIS  TO   CAIRO. 

command  of  the  District  of  Cairo,  and  from  thence 
began  his  own  distinguished  career.  Thus  it  was  the 
starting-point  of  two  of  the  most  famous  heroes  of  the 
late  war — one  who  "  broke  the  back  of  the  Rebellion," 
and  the  other  who  eventually  suppressed  it.  During 
that  period  it  was  an  important  depot  of  supplies,  and 
enjoyed  a  satisfactory  commercial  activity.  It  was  the 
headquarters  of  soldiers  and  participated  in  all  the 
bustle  of  military  life.  For  a  time  it  rose  into  com- 
parative importance  and  seemed  to  realize  in  a  degree 
the  dreams  of  its  youth.  But  with  the  close  of  the  war 
came  the  close  of  its  prosperous  times.  The  streets 
were  again  empty  and  comparatively  silent,  and  the 
town  lapsed  into  decadence. 

Cairo  is  now  a  city  of  eleven  thousand  still  hopeful 
inhabitants.  It  has  several  good  hotels,  and  a  fine 
Custom  House  of  cut  stone,  which  cost  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  The  county  buildings  are  also  large 
and  handsome.  The  levee  keeps  within  bounds  the 
two  rivers  which,  not  a  generation  ago,  almost  yearly 
united  and  spread  out  in  a  broad  expanse  of  water 
several  miles  in  extent  at  that  point.  But  it  does  not 
give  consistency  to  the  Illinois  mud,  which,  stickier 
and  deeper  even  than  that  of  the  Chicago  of  early  days, 
still  turns  the  streets  into  semi-fluid  canals  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year.  Neither  can  it  keep  back  the 
malaria  which  infests  the  lower  portion  of  the  State  of 
Illinois. 

Cairo  has  a  heterogeneous  population  composed  in 
part  of  Northerners  and  in  part  of  Southerners,  while 
there  are  also  representatives  of  the  genuine  Westerner. 
It  is  not  a  handsome  city,  though  there  are  some  fine 
buildings,  and  its  general  architecture  has  improved 


342  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

of  late  years.  The  flat,  unpictnresque  country  and  the 
yellow  flood  of  the  Mississippi  possess,  neither  of  them, 
elements  of  beauty.  Its  future  may  possibly  be  brighter 
than  its  past,  though  it  will  probably  never  reach  the 
goal  of  its  early  ambition.  If  the  levees  prove  a  suffi- 
cient protection  against  the  surging  flood  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, so  that  the  town  is  secure  against  occasional 
inundation,  the  advantages  of  its  geographical  position, 
and  the  superior  facilities  offered  by  its  numerous  rail- 
roads, may  yet  build  it  up  into  a  tolerably  populous 
and  thriving  city. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

CAIRO   TO    MEMPHIS. 


LACLEDE  HOUSE, 

Hickman,  Kentucky, 

October  15,  1881. 

N  quitting  Cairo  we  left  Illinois  to  the 
northward  and  now  had  Kentucky  on 
our  left  hand.     The  dilapidated  village 
of  Belmont,  Missouri,  was  reached  a  few 
minutes  after   one   o'clock.     Here   on    the 
seventh  of  November,  1861,  an  indecisive 
battle  was  fought  between  the  Confederates  under 
Generals  Polk  and  Pillow,  and  the  Union  troops 
commanded  by  General  Grant. 

Some  of  the  most  peculiar  and  interesting  features 
of  a  journey  on  the  Lower  Mississippi  are  the  studies 
presented  by  the  "  Shanty-boats."  We  passed  many 
of  them.  They  are  also  called  family-boats,  as  they 
serve  as  a  home  during  the  winter  for  a  peculiar  class 
of  people.  They  carry  passengers  and  cargo  from  the 
colder  regions  of  the  Ohio  to  New  Orleans.  They  hail 
mostly  from  the  Allegheny  and  Monongahela  region, 
and  from  towns  on  the  Upper  Ohio.  Winter-quarters 
are  looked  up  in  the  fall,  and  the  swift-running  river 
is  the  path  to  warmer  suns  and  a  life  of  ease. 


346  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

The  shanty-boatman  fishes  in  the  stream  for  floating 
boards,  planks  and  scantling  to  build  his  house.  His 
scow  or  flatboat  is  roughly  constructed,  and  is  usually 
about  twenty  feet  long  by  twelve  wide.  It  is  made  of 
planks  spiked  together,  calked  and  pitched,  and  thus 
made  water-tight.  A  small  shanty  is  built  upon  the 
boat,  covering  about  two-thirds  of  it.  If  the  proprietor 
has  a  family  he  takes  them  on  board,  and  lays  in  a 
small  stock  of  provisions,  chiefly  salt  pork,  flour,  po- 
tatoes, molasses  and  coffee.  An  old  cooking-stove  is 
rigged  up,  rough  bunks  are  constructed  for  sleeping, 
and  if  the  family  has  any  furniture,  it  is  put  on  board 
and  arranged  in  the  shanty.  A  double-barreled  gun 
and  a  good  supply  of  ammunition  for  certain  contin- 
gencies, with  a  number  of  steel-traps,  are  never  forgot- 
ten. This  rude  shanty,  with  its  door  at  each  end,  and 
a  few  small  windows  in  its  sides,  makes  a  comfortable 
home  for  its  rough  occupants. 

Every  trade  is  represented  on  these  floating  dens. 
Cobblers,  tinsmiths,  agents  and  repairers  of  sewing- 
machines,  grocers,  saloon-keepers,  barbers  and  others 
set  afloat  their  establishments  and  ply  their  several 
trades  at  the  small  towns  and  villages  on  the  river 
banks.  The  shanty-boat  floats  on  the  stream  with  the 
current,  the  occupants  rarely  doing  any  rowing.  They 
keep  on  their  course  till  a  warmer  climate  is  reached, 
when  they  work  their  craft  into  some  creek  and  secure 
it  to  the  bank.  The  men  then  set  their  steel-traps  in 
the  woods  for  coons,  mink  and  foxes,  and  in  the  course 
of  the  winter,  as  the  reward  of  their  vigilance,  secure 
many  skins.  They  find  other  game,  however,  and 
feast  upon  the  hogs  of  the  backwoodsmen  and  small 
farmers.  When  engaged  in  the  dangerous  work  of 


CAIRO  TO  MEMPHIS.  347 

hog-stealing,  the  men  will  keep  a  number  of  the  skins 
of  wild  animals  stretched  on  the  walls  of  their  shanty, 
so  that  visitors  to  their  boat  may  be  led  to  believe  that 
they  are  industrious  trappers — "  who  wouldn't  steal  a 
hog  for  no  money."  They  will  attend  with  their 
whole  family  any  religious  meeting  in  the  vicinity. 
They  join  with  vigor  in  the  shoutings  and  "  amens," 
and  affect  a  desire  to  lead  Christian  lives,  so  that  the 
spectator  is  often  misled  by  their  seeming  earnestness 
and  sincerity.  A  visit  to  the  shanty-boat,  however, 
and  a  glimpse  of  these  people  "at  home,",  will  quickly 
dispel  such  hastily  formed  impressions. 

The  fleet  of  shanty-boats  begins  to  reach  New  Or- 
leans at  the  approach  of  spring.  They  there  find  a 
market  for  the  skins  of  the  animals  trapped  during 
their  voyage,  and  the  trapper  disposes  of  his  boat  for 
fire-wood.  He  then  purchases  lower-deck  tickets  on 
an  up-river  steamboat  for  Cairo,  Cincinnati,  or  Pitts- 
burg,  and  returns  to  the  Ohio  River  to  rent  a  small 
patch  of  ground  for  the  season,  where  he  can  raise  a 
little  corn,  cabbage  and  potatoes,  upon  which  to  subsist 
until  the  time  arrives  to  repeat  his  annual  trip  down 
the  river  to  warmer  climes. 

Hickman  is  a  small  but  busy  town,  the  capital  of 
Fulton  County,  Kentucky,  and  is  the  only  place  in 
this  State  of  any  importance  on  the  Mississippi.  It 
has  a  population  of  about  two  thousand,  engaged 
mostly  in  the  handling  of  agricultural  produce.  The 
surrounding  country  is  fertile  and  produces,  in  con- 
siderable quantities,  wheat,  corn  and  tobacco.  The 
town  has  various  factories  and  supports  a  seminary  and 
a  newspaper.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Nashville, 
Chattanooga  and  Saint  Louis  Railroad. 


348  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 


KOBINSON  HOUSE, 

Point  Pleasant,   Missouri, 

October  Sixteenth. 

Many  of  the  features  peculiar  to  the  Lower  Missis- 
sippi continued  to  force  themselves  upon  our  notice; 
sand-bars  appeared  frequently  above  the  water,  upon 
which  were  often  seen  large  flocks  of  wild  ducks  and 
geese.  The  Chickasaw  Bluffs,  the  first  and  highest  of 
a  series  which  rise  at  intervals,  like  islands,  out  of  the 
low  bottoms  as  far  south  as  Natchez,  came  into  view 
on  the  left  side  of  the  river,  just  above  Hickman. 
The  Mound-Builders  of  past  ages  used  these  natural 
fortresses  to  hold  at  bay  the  fierce  tribes  of  the  north, 
and  many  centuries  later  they  played  a  conspicuous 
part  in  our  Civil  War. 

We  passed  the  Kentucky  boundary  at  three  o'clock 
and  came  in  sight  of  Tennessee,  Missouri  still  con- 
tinuing on  our  right.  Descending  a  long  straigfit 
reach,  after  making  a  run  of  twenty-five  miles  below 
Hickman,  we  saw  on  the  shore,  in  a  deep  bend  of  the 
river,  the  site  of  Fort  Donelson,  while  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream,  nearly  opposite,  lay  "  Island  No.  10." 
Both  of  these  places  were  full  of  interest,  being  the 
scenes  of  conflict  during  the  Rebellion.  Gliding  down 
another  long  bend  we  passed  New  Madrid,  on  the 
Missouri  side. 

At  four  o'clock  the  mouth  of  Reelfoot  Bayou  opened 
before  us,  a  creek  which  discharges  the  waters  of  one 
of  the  most  peculiarly  interesting  lakes  in  America-  - 
a  lake  which  was  the  immediate  result  of  a  series  of 
disastrous  disturbances,  generally  known  as  the  New 


CAIRO  TO  MEMPHIS.  349 

Madrid  earthquakes,  which  took  place  in  1811—13. 
Much  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  New  Madrid 
and  Fort  Donelson  was  involved  in  these  earthquakes. 
Swamps  were  upheaved  and  converted  into  dry  up- 
lands, while  cultivated  uplands  were  depressed  below 
the  average  water-level  and  became  swamps  or  ponds. 
The  inhabitants,  deprived  of  their  farms,  were  reduced 
to  such  a  stage  of  suffering  as  to  call  for  aid  from  the 
Government,  and  new  lands  were  granted  them  in 
place  of  their  fields  which  had  sunk  out  of  sight. 

The  most  interesting  effect  of  the  subsidence  of  the 
land  was  the  creation  of  Reelfoot  Lake,  the  fluvial  en- 
trance to  whicli  is  from  the  Mississippi,  some  forty-four 
miles  below  Hickman,  Kentucky.  The  northern  end 
of  the  lake  is  west  of,  and  but  a  short  distance  from. 
Fort  Donelson,  which  is  about  twenty  miles  from 
Hickman  by  the  river  route. 


BOARDING  HOUSE, 

Coltonwood  Point,  Missouri, 

October  Seventeenth. 

Seven  o'clock  saw  us  again  on  the  water.  Our 
landlord,  Captain  Robinson,  launched  the  canoe,  giving 
us  a  hearty  send-off,  which  was  lustily  echoed  by  his 
friends  and  neighbors  assembled  on  the  river-bank  to 
witness  our  departure. 

The  climate  was  now  growing  delightful.  It  was 
like  a  June  day  in  the  Northern  States.  Each  soft 
breeze  of  the  balmy  atmosphere  seemed  to  say,  as  we 
felt  its  strange,  fascinating  influence,  "You  are  nearing 
the  goal  !  " 

We  found  the  river  exceedingly  tortuous  at  this  time. 
20 


350  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

The  reaches  were  usually  from  four  to  six  miles  in 
length,  though  some  of  them  were  considerably  longer. 
Sometimes  deposits  of  sand  and  vegetable  matter  will 
build  up  a  small  island  adjacent  to  a  large  one,  and 
then  a  dense  thicket  of  cottonwood  brush  takes  posses- 
sion of  it,  and  assists  materially  in  resisting  the  en- 
croachments of  the  current.  These  little  low  islands 
covered  with  thickets  are  called  "  tow-heads,"  and  the 
maps  of  the  Engineer  Corps  distinguish  them  from  the 
numbered  islands  in  the  following  manner :  "  Island 
No.  24,"  and  "Tow-head  of  Island  No.  24." 

Commencing  with  "No.  1,"  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio,  these  islands  end  with  "No.  125,"  just  above  the 
inlet  to  Bayou  La  Fourche  in  Louisiana ;  and  in  ad- 
dition there  are  many  which  have  been  named  after 
their  owners.  During  one  generation  a  planter  may 
live  upon  a  peninsula  comprising  many  thousand  acres, 
with  his  cotton-fields  and  house  fronting  on  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  treacherous  current  of  this  river  may  sud- 
denly cut  a  new  way  across  his  estate  at  a  distance  of 
two  or  three  miles  from  his  house.  As  the  gradual 
change  goes  on,  he  looks  from  the  windows  of  his 
house  upon  a  new  scene.  He  no  longer  gazes  upon 
the  majestic  river,  enlivened  by  the  passage  of  steam- 
boats and  other  craft;  but  before  him  is  a  sombre 
bayou  or  lake,  whose  muddy  waters  are  almost  motion- 
less. He  was  possibly  the  proprietor  of  Beauregard 
Point,  he  is  now  the  owner  of  Beauregard  Island,  and 
lives  in  the  quiet  atmosphere  of  the  backwoods  of 
Tennessee. 

The  area  of  land  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi 
subjected  to  annual  overflow  is  very  large.  There  are 
localities  thirty  or  forty  miles  away  from  the  river 


CAIRO   TO  MEMPHIS.  351 

where  tlie  height  of  the  overflow  of  the  previous  year 
is  plainly  registered  upon  the  trunks  of  the  trees  by  a 
coating  of  yellow  mud,  which  frequently  reaches  from 
seven  to  ten  feet  above  the  ground.  This  great  region 
covers  vast  tracts  of  rich  land,  as  well  as  millions  of 
acres  of  low  swamps  and  bayou  bottoms. 

The  settler  builds  his  log-cabin  on  the  highlands, 
and  makes  a  clearing  where  the  rich  soil  and  warm 
sun  aid  his  feeble  efforts  in  the  direction  of  agriculture, 
and  he  is  rewarded  with  a  large  crop  of  corn  and  sweet- 
potatoes.  These,  with  bacon,  annually  provided  from 
his  herd  .of  wandering  pigs,  furnish  the  food  for  his 
family  of  children,  who,  usually  without  covering 
for  their  heads,  roam  through  the  woods  until  the  sun 
bleaches  their  hair  to  the  color  of  flax.  With  tobacco, 
whiskey  and  ammunition  for  himself,  and  an  ample 
supply  of  snuff  for  his  wife,  he  drags  out  an  indolent 
existence;  but  he  is  the  pioneer  of  American  civiliza- 
tion, and  as  he  migrates  every  few  years  to  a  more 
western  wilderness,  his  lands  are  frequently  occupied 
by  a  more  intelligent  and  industrious  class,  and  his  im- 
provements are  improved  upon.  The  new-comer,  with 
more  ambition  and  greater  resources,  raises  cotton 
instead  of  corn,  and  looks  to  the  North  for  his  necessary 
supplies  of  food  and  clothing. 


FORT  PILLOW  HOUSE, 

Fulton,     Tennessee, 
October  Eighteenth. 

We  passed  the  Missouri  boundary  soon  after  leaving 
Cottonwood  in  the  morning  and  had  the  State  of 
Arkansas  on  our  right.  Ate  our  luncheon  in  the 


352  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

canoe  as  we  floated  through  a  cut-off  near  the  Tennes- 
see shore. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  met  two  colored  men  in  a 
skiff,  who  in  answer  to  inquiries  directed  our  attention 
to  the  site  of  Fort  Pillow,  which  is  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river  upon  one  of  the  Chickasaw  Bluffs. 
It  is  about  forty  feet  above  the  water  and  commands 
the  low  country  opposite  and  two  reaches  of  the  river 
for  a  long  distance. 

At  intervals  we  caught  glimpses  of  negro  cabins  with 
their  clearings,  and  their  little  crops  of  cotton  glisten- 
ing in  the  sun.  Truly  had  the  sword  been  beaten  into 
the  plowshare,  and  the  spear  into  the  pruuing-hook. 


PLANTATION  HOUSE, 

Harrison's  Landing,  Arkansas, 

October  Nineteenth. 

This  was  a  sunny  and  windy  day.  The  Arkansas 
shores  afforded  us  protection  as  we  paddled  away  from. 
Fulton.  The  island  tow-heads  and  sand-bars  were 
numerous,  and  in  places  the  Mississippi  widened  into 
lake-like  proportions,  while  the  yellow  current,  now 
heavily  charged  with  mud,  increased  in  height  every 
hour. 

Having  divested  ourselves  of  all  superfluous  apparel 
we  pushed  southward  with  all  the  nerve  we  could 
command.  The  negroes  at  work  on  the  plantations 
gave  us  a  hearty  hail  as  we  passed.  By  a  lively 
use  of  our  paddles  from  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning 
until  the  same  hour  in  the  evening  we  were  enabled 
to  make  Harrison's  Landing,  Arkansas,  noting  in  our 
log  sixty-three  miles  for  the  day. 


CAIRO  TO  MEMPHIS.  353 

Our  evening  with  the  Harrisons  of  Harrison's  Land- 
ing was  one  of  the  most  agreeable  and  noteworthy  ex- 
periences of  our  many  halts  on  the  Arkansas  shore. 
It  was  the  beginning  of  a  long  list  of  courtesies  and 
entertainments  of  which  Paine  and  myself  were  the  re- 
cipients, but  which  we  had  hardly  expected  in  the  Far 
South,  since  I  felt  that,possibly,my  service  in  the  Union 
Army  would  be  a  bar  to  the  usual  Southern  civili- 
ties ;  but  in  this  we  were  greatly  mistaken.  No  people 
could  be  more  cordial  in  the  treatment  of  their  guests 
than  were  those  whom  it  was  our  good  fortune  to  meet 
in  Mississippi,  Arkansas,  and  Louisiana. 


Ninety-first 

HOTEL  COCHRAN, 

Memphis,  Tennessee, 

October  Twentieth. 

We  were  quite  surprised  in  the  morning,  on  propos- 
ing payment  for  our  accommodations,  to  be  told  by  the 
Harrisons  that  they  preferred  to  have  us  consider 
our  stay  at  their  home  a  visit.  Having  already  noted 
some  peculiarities  of  Southern  hospitality  we  deemed  it 
prudent  not  to  observe  our  usual  practice  of  insisting 
that  payment  in  full  should  be  accepted. 

With  the  cordial  good  wishes  of  those  whom  we  had 
met  at  the  Landing  we  again  stepped  into  the  Alice 
and  pointed  her  prow  towards  Memphis,  twenty-five 
miles  distant.  Near  Randolph  we  passed  at  a  distance 
large  and  well-cultivated  cotton  plantations,  but  the 
river  country  in  its  vicinity  was  almost  a  wilderness. 

Arrived  at  Memphis,  we  landed,  and  after  partaking 
of  refreshments,  started  on  a  tour  of  observation  through 
the  city,  as  was  our  custom. 


354  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER, 

Memphis  dates  its  origin  from  the  year  1820,  when 
its  site  was  selected,  and  the  city  of  the  future  planned 
and  laid  out.  It  grew  rapidly  and  in  1831  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city.  It  is  built  on  a  bluff,  forty-seven 
feet  above  the  highest  flow  of  the  river,  and  its  safety 
from  inundation  is  thus  assured.  At  a  short  distance 
above  the  city  the  Wolf  River  empties  its  clear  stream 
into  the  Mississippi.  Memphis  is  seven  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  four  hundred 
and  twenty  below  Saint  Louis.  Twenty  years  after  its 
foundation  the  population  had  increased  to  three  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  sixty;  in  1884,  it  had  reached 
nearly  fifty  thousand.  Memphis  has  attained  the 
dignity  of  being  the  most  important  point  on  the 
river  between  Saint  Louis  and  New  Orleans.  The 
city  is  very  tastefully  and  conveniently  planned,  and 
is  adorned  with  many  elegant  and  substantial  private 
residences  and  public  structures.  The  Esplanade, 
between  Front  street  and  the  river,  forms  a  fine  ad- 
dition to  the  city,  and  here  we  find  the  Custom  House, 
a  splendid  specimen  of  architecture,  built  of  the  best 
quality  of  marble  from  the  Tennessee  quarries.  The 
business  streets  are  wide  and  regular  and  lined  with 
handsome  stores.  Many  of  the  private  residences  are 
surrounded  with  beautiful  lawns,  ornamented  with 
classic  statuary  and  flowers  in  profuse  variety.  The 
city  occupies  an  area  of  over  three  square  miles,  a 
handsome  park,  filled  with  trees,  adorning  its  centre. 
Here  also  in  a  bust  of  Andrew  Jackson.  The  ceme- 
teries are  six  in  number,  Elmwood,  on  the  south-east 
border  of  the  city,  being  the  most  tastefully  laid  out 
and  the  most  beautiful  of  the  number. 

Intersecting  the  city  is  the  Bayou  Gayoso,  with  several 


CAIRO  TO  MEMPHIS.  355 

branches,  which,  up  to  the  year  1860, was  the  recep- 
tacle of  most  of  the  city  drainage.  Since  that  date 
over  forty  miles  of  sewers  have  been  constructed  and 
the  city  is  now  provided  with  a  very  superior  and  ef- 
fective system  of  drainage.  The  facilities  for  trans- 
portation by  railway  are  abundant  in  every  direction, 
and  to  these  are  added  an  excellent  and  well-appointed 
street  railway.  Memphis  is  well  paved  and  is  supplied 
with  pure  water  from  the  Wolf  River  by  the  Holly 
system. 

In  addition  to  the  usual  religious,  educational  and 
commercial  institutions,  the  city  contains  a  fine  public 
library  of  about  ten  thousand  volumes;  three  daily 
and  ten  weekly  papers ;  a  chamber  of  commerce,  and  a 
cotton  exchange.  The  Christian  Brothers'  College — 
— Catholic — established  in  1841,  has  a  large  number 
of  professors  and  instructors,  and  a  corresponding 
number  of  preparatory  and  collegiate  students,  whose 
training  does  credit  to  the  faculty.  The  Memphis 
College,  for  the  education  of  females,  is  an  admirable 
institution  situated  within  the  city  limits.  The  State 
Female  College  is  a  little  outside,  and  is  also  in  a 
flourishing  condition. 

Navigation  is  open  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  and  large 
sea-going  vessels  ascend  the  river  to  Memphis.  For 
the  sale  of  cotton  this  city  ranks  as  the  largest  interior 
market  in  the  United  States.  It  has  also  an  extensive 
trade  with  Arkansas,  Mississippi,  West  Tennessee  and 
Northern  Alabama.  Several  lines  of  steamboats  run 
to  Saint  Louis,  Cincinnati,  Vicksburg  and  many  other 
points.  The  Memphis  and  Little  Rock  Railway  ter- 
minates at  Hopefield,  on  the  Arkansas  side  of  the  river, 
whence  a  powerful  transfer-boat  convevs  an  entire  train, 
at  once  to  Memphis. 


356  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

The  annual  value  of  the  trade  of  the  city  is  about 
sixty-five  million  dollars.  Foundries  and  machine- 
shops  are  among  the  principal  manufactories.  There 
are  also  extensive  wood- works,  a  large  tobacco  factory, 
furniture  factories,  and  three  of  the  largest  oil-mills  in 
the  United  States. 

During  the  Civil  War  the  Union  forces  took  posses- 
sion of  the  city  after  a  naval  engagement  in  which  the 
Confederate  flotilla  was  nearly  destroyed.  This  oc- 
curred June  sixth,  1862,  and  the  Unionists  held  pos- 
session until  the  close  of  the  war.  In  August,  1864,  a 
cavalry  raid  was  made  upon  the  city  by  the  Con- 
federate General  Forrest,  who  captured  several  hun- 
dred Federals  and  then  departed. 

Memphis  has  suffered  greatly  from  the  ravages  of 
yellow  fever.  In  1878  and  1879  two-thirds  of  the 
population  fled  from  the  city.  Business  was  wholly 
suspended,  and  for  three  months  in  each  of  these  years 
all  ingress  or  egress  was  forbidden,  except  for  the  most 
necessary  purposes.  The  city  became  for  a  time  hope- 
lessly bankrupt.  It  is,  however,  at  last  regaining  its 
normal  condition  of  prosperity,  and  by  thoroughly  cleans- 
ing, repaving  and  sewering  the  streets,  and  supervising 
the  construction  of  buildings,  is  likely  to  become  event- 
ually one  of  the  healthiest  cities  on  the  Mississippi 
Kiver. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

MEMPHIS  TO   VICKSBURG. 


NEGRO  CABIN, 

Near  Alexis,  Mississippi, 

October  21,  1881. 

N  returning  to  our  canoe  at  Memphis  in 
the  morning  we  found  many  interested 
citizens  assembled  on  the  levee  to  wit- 
ness our  departure  and  to  leave  with  us 
their  good  wishes  for  a  safe  and  pleasant 
voyage  to  the  Gulf. 

We  made  a  miscalculation  in  the  forenoon  as 
to  a  cut-off,  by  which  we  lost  four  miles.  Halted 
a  few  moments  at  a  United  States  Survey-lwat  to  in- 
quire distances  and  to  further  inform  ourselves  concern- 
ing the  route  to  Vicksburg. 

Our  first  night  among  the  colored  people  was  brought 
about  through  a  failure  to  reach  a  town  or  find  a  white 
family  on  or  near  the  banks  of  the  river  before 
dark.  Continuing  our  course,  we  hailed  every  visible 
light  without  response  until  nearly  ten  o'clock,  when 
we  came  to  the  home  of  Robert  Green,  an  intelligent 
and  courteous  colored  man,  who  gave  us  a  cordial  wel- 
come. We  did  not  regret  the  circumstances  which  led 
us  to  the  cabin  of  a  negro.  I  was  most  anxious  to 

(357) 


358  DOWN  THE  GREAT  HIVES. 

place  myself  in  possession  of  some  facts  concerning 
their  method  of  gaining  a  livelihood  and  note  their 
social  advancement  under  the  favoring  influences  of 
freedom.  During  my  escape  from  a  Southern  prison 
many  years  before,  I  had  found  shelter  and  protection 
among  the  negroes  of  South  Carolina  and  Georgia, 
when,  as  slaves,  they  were  looking  forward  to  a  release 
from  bondage,  and  at  a  time  when  there  was  much 
speculation  as  to  the  probabilities  of  their  future,  should 
the  war  result  in  emancipation. 

Twenty  years  have  passed,  the  problem  has  been 
solved,  and  every  intelligent  person  North  and  South 
is  thoroughly  convinced  that  the  negro  has  not  only 
made  rapid  strides  in  the  direction  of  intellectual  de- 
velopment, but  has  proven  himself  capable  of  main- 
taining his  family  and  accumulating  property. 

I  learned  through  Mr.  Green  of  many  notable  ex- 
amples  in  which  colored  men  have  been  prosperous  to 
a  very  marked  degree.  He  cited,  among  others,  Ben 
Montgomery,  who  was  at  one  time  the  slave  and  body- 
servant  of  Colonel  Joseph  Davis,  brother  of  Jefferson 
Davis,  ex-President  of  the  late  Confederate  States.  He 
was  the  manager  of  the  Davis  estates  while  a  slave, 
and  was  so  industrious  and  honest  in  all  his  dealings, 
and  so  successful  in  business,  that  after  the  war  he  was 
able  to  purchase  his  master's  plantation,  for  which  he 
paid  him  in  gold. 

Montgomery  was  described  as  fairly  educated  and 
possessing  the  presence  and  address  of  a  gentleman. 
It  is  a  singular  fact  that  this  large  landed-estate  should 
have  become  the  property  of  the  former  slave  so  soon 
after  the  war,  and  proves  most  conclusively  that  the 
black  man  may  aspire  to  wealth  and  station  with  as 


MEMPHIS  TO   VICKSBURG.  359 

fair  a  prospect  of  success  as  the  more  favored  race, 
Ben  Montgomery  died  some  years  since,  leaving  an 
example  to  his  colored  kindred  worthy  of  their  imita- 
tion. 


DELMONICO  HOTEL, 

Helena,    Arkansas, 

October  Twenty-second. 

As  soon  as  we  had  finished  breakfast  at  the  cabin  of 
our  colored  host,  Robert  Green,  we  called  for  the  Alice, 
and,  accompanied  by  all  the  Greens,  large  and  small, 
hurried  down  to  the  river  and  pushed  off.  Nothing 
of  an  unusual  character  was  seen  until  about  twelve 
o'clock,  when,  as  we  rounded  a  bend  we  saw  in  the 
distance  Helena,  the  most  enterprising  city  of  Arkan- 
sas. We  struck  the  beach  at  one  o'clock,  and  on  step- 
ping ashore  received  a  welcome  from  Arnot  Harris 
and  W.  L.  Morris.  These  gentlemen  escorted  us  to 
the  "  Delmonico  "  for  dinner,  and  extended  many 
courtesies  during  our  brief  stay  in  their  city. 

Helena,  standing  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
in  Phillips  County,  Arkansas,  has  become,  since  the 
Civil  War,  a  very  enterprising  town,  and  is  growing 
rapidly  into  importance.  It  offers  many  advantages 
for  navigation  and  commerce,  and  the  only  drawback 
to  its  still  greater  advancement  is  the  destructive 
agency  of  the  Mississippi,  which  occasionally  threatens 
it  with  inundation.  If  it  can  protect  itself  against  the 
overflows,  Helena,  from  its  peculiarly  favorable  posi- 
tion, is  destined  to  become  one  of  the  first  cities  on  the 
Lower  Mississippi.  Located  in  a  fertile  cotton  section, 
the  facilities  for  shipment  of  that  staple  to  other  ports 
is  apparent.  It  is  eighty  miles  below  Memphis,  and  is 


360  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  terminus  of  the  Arkansas  Midland,  and  the  Iron 
Mountain  and  Helena  railroads. 

In  the  summer  of  1863  Helena  was  held  by  a  Union 
force  under  General  Prentiss,  strongly  intrenched,  the 
river  also  being  commanded  by  a  gunboat.  July 
fourth,  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  seize  the  town  was 
made  by  a  superior  Confederate  force  under  General 
Holmes.  In  the  action  which  followed,  the  Confeder- 
ates lost  one  thousand  six  hundred  and  thirty-six  men, 
and  the  Unionists  two  hundred  and  fifty. 

The  present  population  of  Helena  is  about  four 
thousand,  and  it  supports  two  banks  and  five  news- 
papers. 


PLANTATION  HOUSE, 

Near   Modoc,    Arkansas 

October  Twenty-third. 

Wind,  rain,  and  a  chopped  sea  greeted  us  as  we 
stepped  into  our  canoe  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing. A  persistent  use  of  our  paddles  supported  by  a 
brisk  current  brought  us  to  Friar's  Point  at  eleven 
o'clock.  Here  we  landed,  and  after  climbing  over  a 
levee  walked,  or  rather  waded,  up  to  town  through 
several  inches  of  mud  and  water. 

After  dinner,  which  we  had  at  a  restaurant,  we  took  a 
hurried  stroll  through  this  forlorn-looking  place,  confin- 
ing our  walk  chiefly  to  high  ground  and  streets  favored 
with  paved  or  board  sidewalks.  Should  the  majestic 
Mississippi  conclude  some  fine  day  to  take  Friar's 
Point  on  an  excursion  to  the  Gulf,  it  is  doubtful  if 
anything  -but  the  "  point"  would  be  missed. 

Just  before  re-embarking  we  were  invited  aboard 
the  "  Doremus  Floating  Photograph  Gallery,"  which 


MEMPHIS  TO   VICKSBURG. 

has  been  upon  the  river  for  the  past  six  years,  under 
the  direction  of  J.  P.  Doremus,  of  Paterson,  New  Jersey. 
Mr.  Doremus  explained  that  he  made  his  floating  gal- 
lery his  home  during  the  summer  months,  and  that  he 
had  photographed  every  object  of  interest  between 
Minneapolis  and  Vicksburg.  Many  of  the  views  sub- 
mitted for  our  inspection  were  faithful  representations 
of  Mississippi  scenery,  and  will  prove  a  valuable  con- 
tribution to  the  illustrated  history  of  the  Great  River. 

The  weather  was  showery  throughout  the  afternoon, 
but  in  anticipation  of  several  days  more  of  the  same 
sort  we  thought  it  best  to  continue  our  voyage,  and 
pressed  forward  determined  to  cover  as  many  miles  as 
possible  before  nightfall. 

The  small  landing  and  postal  station  known  as 
Modoc  was  reached  a  few  minutes  before  six  o'clock. 
Here  we  spent  the  night  with  J.  R.  McGuire  and 
family,  a  wealthy  and  enterprising  cotton-planter,  who 
named  the  place  and  established  a  post-office  soon 
after  the  Modoc  War.  We  were  much  gratified  to 
note  in  our  log  a  gain  of  forty-eight  miles  for  our 
ninety-fourth  day. 


BOARDING  HOUSE, 

Concordia,    Mississippi, 

October  Twenty-fourth. 

Our  Modoc  landlord,  Mr.  McGuire,  gave  us  the 
launch  at  eight  o'clock,  pushing  the  Alice  into  a  brisk 
current  which,  at  this  point,  is  said  to  be  about  seven 
miles  an  hour.  Contrary  to  our  predictions  of  the 
previous  day,  the  weather  was  cool  and  pleasant,  with 
wind  up  stream. 


362  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

We  met  the  steamer  Vinksburg  near  "  Island  No. 
66,"  and  greeted  her  passengers  and  crew  by  raising 
our  hats.  This  courtesy  was  responded  to  by  the  Vicks- 
burg  with  her  usual  salute  of  three  whistles.  Dined 
with  a  cotton-planter  on  the  Arkansas  side,  opposite 
Mahone's  Landing,  Mississippi.  Laconia  was  passed 
at  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  Concord  ia  reached 
a  few  minutes  before  six.  Several  miles  were  saved  in 
this  day's  run  by  availing  ourselves  of  cut-offs.  Dis- 
tance covered  forty-five  miles. 


PRIVATE  HOUSE, 

Bolivar,    Mississippi, 

October  Twenty-fifth. 

The  low  banks  of  the  river  below  Memphis  brought 
plainly  to  view  the  levees  or  dikes  built  as  a  protection 
against  the  inroads  of  freshets.  The  mouths  of  the 
White  and  Arkansas  rivers  were  passed  during  the 
afternoon  of  this  day,  the  latter  of  which  is  the  largest 
western  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  south  of  the 
Missouri. 

Below  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas  is,  or  rather  was, 
the  town  of  Napoleon,  at  one  time  a  place  of  enter- 
prise and  importance  on  the  Lower  Mississippi,  but 
now  represented  by  only  a  few  scattered  houses,  the 
most  demoralized-looking  hamlet  we  had  seen  since 
leaving  Minneiska,  at  the  other  end  of  the  river.  The 
banks  were  tumbling  into  the  stream  day  by  day. 
Houses  had  fallen  into  the  current  which  was  rapidly 
undermining  the  town.  Here  and  there  chimneys 
were  observed  standing  in  solitude,  the  buildings  having 
beeu  torn  down  and  removed  to  other  localities  in 


MEMPHIS  TO   VICKSBURG.  3(53 

order  to  save  them  from  the  persistent  encroachments 
of  the  river. 

Jftnetu-scBentl)  Oatx 

PLANTATION  HOUSE, 

Point  Comfort,  Mississippi, 

October  Twenty  sixth. 

Breakfasted  at  seven  o'clock  and  then  repaired  to  the 
little  cove  in  which  we  had  moored  our  canoe  the 
previous  evening.  The  river  had  risen  several  inches 
during  the  night  and  we  were  fortunate  in  finding  the 
Alice  near  where  we  had  left  her  —  high  and  dry,  but 
too  near  the  bank  of  the  river.  In  our  haste  to  find  a 
shelter  for  the  night  we  had  neglected  to  tie  up,  but 
luckily  an  honest  fisherman  living  near  saw  the  risk 
she  ran  of  floating  off  on  her  own  account  —  leaving 
her  crew  stranded  —  and  dragged  her  up  the  bank  to 
safer  moorings.  We  were  thus  spared  the  loss  of  our 
staunch  and  faithful  little  friend  and,  taking  our  seats, 
pushed  out  into  the  rapidly  flowing  current. 

Many  large  and  well-cultivated  plantations  were 
observed  in  the  distance  near  Glencoe,  Mississippi,  but 
the  river  country  as  we  glided  past  seemed  almost  a  wil- 
derness. So  favorable  were  wind  and  current  in  this 
day's  pull  that  we  ran  off  forty-eight  miles  in  six  hours, 
notwithstanding  the  fact  that  Paine  was  feeling  very 
uncomfortable,  owing  to  a  slight  attack  of  malaria. 


NEGRO  CABIN, 

Sunnyside,  Arkansas, 

October  Twenty-  seventh. 

Resumed  our  paddles  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. Weather  warm  and  cloudy,  with  some  rain  in 
the  forenoon.  Scenery  along  the  river  decidedly 


364  DOWN  THE  GREAT  HIVER. 

monotonous.  Encountered  the  usual  number  of  "re- 
gulation "  bends,  sand-bars,  "  tow-heads  "  and  "  nigger- 
heads  ;  "  in  short,  it  may  be  truthfully  said  that  from 
morning  till  night,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of 
the  week,  there  is  but  little  to  arrest  the  attention  of 
the  voyager  in  this  section  of  the  Lower  Mississippi. 
When  one  has  seen  ten  miles  of  the  scenery  below  Mem- 
phis, he  may  know  what  to  anticipate  for  the  remain- 
der of  his  journey  to  Vicksburg. 

Disembarked  at  Greenville,  the  chief  town  of  the 
Levee  District,  and  the  capital  of  Washington  County, 
Mississippi.  During  the  late  Civil  War  the  town  was 
destroyed  by  the  Federals,  but  was  rebuilt  in  1865, 
and  incorporated  in  1870.  The  citizens  are  enter- 
prising and  liberal,  and  enjoy  a  thriving  trade  with 
the  surrounding  country.  The  stability  of  Greenville 
and  its  future  growth  seem  assured  by  its  gradual  in- 
crease of  population,  the  opening  of  several  branch 
railroads,  and  greater  efficiency  in  the  protection  of 
the  back  country  from  overflow.  The  shifting  channel 
of  the  river  and  its  consequences  are  a  trouble  the  city 
has  to  contend  with  in  common  with  all  other  towns  and 
counties  on  the  Lower  River;  but  the  Government, 
through  the  plan  of  works  adopted  by  the  River  Com- 
mission, bids  fair  to  put  an  end  to  this  difficulty. 

The  moral  and  religious  education  of  the  people  is 
promoted  by  several  churches  and  a  number  of  excel- 
lent schools.  A  public  library  of  well-selected  books — • 
the  handsome  building  being  the  gift  of  a  benevolent 
citizen — also  provides  for  the  enlightenment  and  eleva- 
tion of  the  inhabitants. 

The  Mississippi  River  terminus  of  the  Georgia  Rail- 
road is  here ;  and  at  this  point  also  is  located  one  of  the 


MEMPHIS  TO    VICKSBURG.  365 

finest  cottonseed  oil-mills  in  the  country;  also  a  large 
saw-mill,  a  planing-mill  and  a  grist-mill.  Greenville,  it 
is  alleged  by  the  inhabitants,  is  excelled  in  healthfulness 
by  few  towns  in  any  locality.  It  is  well  drained,  and 
there  are  no  sources  of  malaria  in  the  track  of  the 
prevalent  breezes  that  blow  over  the  town.  Law  and 
order  are  strictly  enforced,  and  there  is  a  total  absence 
of  rowdyism  and  violation  of  authority. 


PRIVATE  HOUSE, 

Ashton,     Louisiana, 

October  Twenty-  eighth. 

Our  arrival  at  Ashton  was  more  exciting  than  agree- 
able. We  had  some  trouble  in  effecting  a  landing 
just  above  this  place,  which  consisted  simply  and  solely 
of  a  small  store,  residence  and  out-buildings.  The 
current  of  the  river  was  strong  and  the  banks  too  steep 
and  crumbling,  without  artificial  help,  for  disembarking* 
Once  on  the  shore,  however,  we  presumed  it  an  easy 
task  to  walk  down  to  the  house  which  we  had  noticed  at 
a  distance  of  about  eighty  rods.  It  was  soon  discovered 
that  our  line  of  march  would  carry  us  through  a  field 
inclosed  with  a  ten-rail  fence.  Cattle  were  observed 
in  this  field,  but  it  did  not  occur  to  either  Paine  or 
myself  that  there  was  any  occasion  for  caution  ;  when, 
suddenly,  a  massive  bull  sprang  out  from  the  herd 
and  came  in  pursuit  of  us  in  a  manner  that  indicated 
perhaps  anything  but  a  friendly  greeting.  It  is  need- 
less to  say  that  we  were  not  long  in  reaching  and 
mounting  the  fence  on  the  Ashton  side  of  the  field 
\ve  were  crossing.  Here,  however,  was  encountered  the 
climax  to  our  dilemma.  A  pack  of  hounds,  attracted 
21 


366  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

by  our  scramble  for  the  fence,  came  out  in  full  force 
from  the  house,  followed  by  their  master,  and  con- 
fronted us  from  the  opposite  side.  With  his  bullship 
roaring  and  bellowing  in  our  rear,  and  the  dogs  bark- 
ing and  yelping  in  our  front,  we  called  a  truce  from 
the  topmost  rail  and  awaited  developments.  Having 
satisfactorily  answered  the  challenge  of  the  representa- 
tive of  Ashton,  and  convinced  him  that  we  were  not 
marauders,  our  canine  foes  were  speedily  silenced  and 
we  were  escorted  down  to  Ashton,  which  we  soon  as- 
certained had  been  selected  as  a  postal  station  for  the 
surrounding  country  on  account  of  its  convenience  to  a 
landing  for  the  river  steamers.  We  learned  upon  fur- 
ther investigation  that  we  had  passed  the  Arkansas 
boundary  and  would  spend  our  first  night  in  Louisiana. 


(ZDne  Jjjunforefotl)  ?Dag. 

MASNA  VISTA  STORE, 

Ingomar,  Mississippi, 

October  Twenty-ninth. 

We  left  Ashton  a  few  minutes  after  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning  without  any  definite  evening  objective.  A 
peculiar  combination  of  circumstances  prevented  our 
disembarking  until  after  nine  o'clock,  when  we  ran 
ashore  at  a  small  steamboat-landing  known  as  Ingomar. 
Here  we  were  very  cordially  received  by  Isaac  Riegler, 
the  proprietor  of  a  small  store,  whose  principal  patrons 
were  the  colored  people  of  the  neighborhood.  Hap- 
pening at  this  place  on  Saturday  evening  we  had  an 
excellent  opportunity  to  note  the  performances  of  the 
negroes  after  receiving  their  weekly  pay.  Story- 
telling, plantation  songs,  and  dancing  seemed  to  be 
the  chief  characteristics  of  their  Saturday  evening 
gathering. 


MEMPHIS  TO    VICES  BURG.  367 

(£>nc  fjtmftrefo  aru)  J"trst  £)an. 

PACIFIC  HOUSE, 

Vicksburg,   Mississippi, 

October  Thirtieth. 

Our  first  view  of  Vicksburg  was  over  a  long,  low 
point  of  land,  the  base  of  which  was  excavated  by  the 
Union  Army  during  its  investment  of  the  city  in  the  late 
conflict  between  the  States.  By  passing  through  this 
cut-off,  light  draught  gunboats  could  ascend  or  descend 
the  Mississippi  without  passing  near  the  batteries  of 
the  beleaguered  city.  This  peninsula,  which  the  Fed- 
eral troops  held,  is  on  the  Louisiana  shore,  opposite 
Vicksburg. 

"VVe  came  in  sight  of  Vicksburg  just  as  the  sun  was 
setting,  and  by  the  time  we  had  reached  the  city  front 
everything  on  the  river  was  enveloped  in  darkness. 
As  we  floated  quietly  down  the  stream  in  our  canoe, 
and  gazed  at  the  brilliantly  lighted  city  upon  the 
heights,  I  thought  of  the  sanguinary  deeds  there  en- 
acted twenty  years  ago. 

Vicksburg  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, at  the  lower  end  of  the  immense  Yazoo  basin, 
created  by  the  union  of  the  river  of  that  name  with 
the  Mississippi  some  twelve  miles  above.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  some  of  the  best  scenery  on  the  Lower  Missis- 
sippi, being  located  on  bluffs  known  as  Walnut  Hills, 
which  extend  for  two  miles  along  the  river  and  rise 
gradually  to  a  height  of  five  hundred  feet.  It  is  about 
midway  between  Memphis  and  New  Orleans,  and  is 
the  largest  city  between  them.  As  seen  from  the 
river  it  presents  a  highly  picturesque  appearance,  and 
loses  none  of  its  attractiveness  on  a  nearer  approach. 


THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

Vicksborg,  unlike  many  of  the  towns  and  cities  on 
both  the  Upper  and  Lower  Mississippi,  has  no  history 
stretching  back  into  a  past  century.  Its  existence 
dates  only  from  1836,  when  a  planter  by  the  name  of 
Vick  settled  there  and  founded  the  town.  Members 
of  his  family  still  reside  there.  The  most  interesting 
event  connected  with  the  town  is  its  capture  by  Grant, 
in  1863. 

After  a  desperate  struggle  upon  the  river,  New 
Orleans  had  capitulated  to  the  Union  forces  under 
Farragut  and  Porter,  and  on  May  seventh  the  surren- 
der of  Baton  Rouge  had  been  demanded,  and  the  de- 
mand had  been  complied  with  without  any  conflict. 

On  the  thirteenth  of  May,  Commander  Palmer  an- 
chored before  Natchez,  where  no  resistance  was  offered 
him.  His  little  squadron,  consisting  of  the  Iroquois 
and  several  gunboats,  then  proceeded  up  the  river  to 
"Vicksburg,  four  hundred  miles  above  New  Orleans. 
The  bluffs  were  lined  with  Confederate  batteries  and  a 
scornful  refusal  was  returned  to  his  demand  for  a  sur- 
render of  the  city  and  garrison. 

After  an  unsuccessful  bombardment,  the  Con- 
federate batteries  being  so  strongly  posted  and  so  well 
manned  that  it  was  found  impossible  to  reduce  them, 
it  was  deemed  necessary  to  resort  to  other  methods  for 
the  subjugation  of  the  city.  Vicksburg  is  situated  on 
a  broad  bend  in  the  river,  and  as  the  only  strategic 
point  of  value  to  the  place  was  its  command  of  the 
river,  the  idea  was  conceived  of  isolating  it  by  cutting 
a  new  channel  across  the  neck  of  the  peninsula  formed 
by  the  sweep  of  the  river,  and  thus  leave  it  six  miles 
inland. 

On  the  morning  of  the  twenty-ninth  of  June,  1862, 


MEMPHIS  TO   VICK8BWRQ. 


371 


tlic  ground  was  broken  for  this  canal.  It  was  expected 
that,  were  but  a  narrow  channel  cut,  the  force  of  the 
current  in  rushing  through  it  would  at  once  widen 
and  deepen  it,  and  it  would  thus  speedily  become  the 
main  channel  of  the  Mississippi.  Twelve  hundred 
negroes  from  adjoining  plantations  volunteered  their 
services,  and  went  to  work  with  a  will,  chopping, 
grubbing  and  digging.  By  the  twenty-second  of  July 
the  canal  was  completed,  but  to  the  chagrin  of  those 
who  had  planned  it  the  river  was  then  too  low  to  run 
through  it.  Nothing  remained  but  to  leave  Vicks- 
burg  in  possession  of  the  Confederates,  or  reduce  it  by 
other  means. 

One  portion  of  the  Union  fleet  was  moored  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Yazoo  and  the  other  portion  below 
Vicksburg,  and  owing  to  the  threatening  attitude  of 
that  city  with  its  frowning  batteries,  communication 
between  them  by  means  of  the  river  was  impossible. 
Meantime,  at  the  Confederate  navy-yard,  up  the  Yazoo 
river,  a  powerful  ironclad  ram,  named  the  Arkansas, 
was  in  process  of  construction,  and  was  expected  soon 
to  be  ready  for  duty.  On  the  fifteenth  of  July,  before 
the  completion  of  the  canal,  the  ram  came  down  the 
river  in  close  pursuit  of  two  Union  gunboats,  having 
already  driven  the  Carondelet  ashore.  All  the  gun- 
boats of  the  Union  fleet  were  brought  to  bear  on  her, 
but  she  successfully  ran  the  fleet,  apparently  unharmed, 
and  took  shelter  under  the  batteries  of  Vicksburg. 
It  was  subsequently  learned  that  her  loss  was  ten 
killed  and  fifteen  wounded,  Captain  Brown,  her  coni' 
mander,  slightly  in  the  head.  Her  smoke-stack  was 
riddled,  but  otherwise  she  was  not  injured.  A  general 
engagement  took  place  between  the  Union  gunboats 


372  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

on  one  side  and  the  Confederate  batteries  on  the 
other. 

It  was  in  the  midst  of  a  hot  southern  summer, 
and  the  men,  one  after  another,  fell  sick.  A  man 
would  be  well  one  day  and  die  before  the  close  of  the 
next.  Of  the  one  hundred  and  thirty  men  of  the 
mortar  fleet,  more  than  one  hundred  were  off'  duty, 
while  more  than  one-half  the  crews  of  the  gunboats 
were  incapacitated  by  sickness.  Farragut  decided  to 
drop  back  to  New  Orleans  and  wait  for  a  better  time 
and  opportunity  to  strike  an  effective  blow.  The 
fleet  therefore  retreated  down  the  river  as  far  as  Baton 
Ilouge,  where  an  engagement  with  the  Confederates 
took  place  in  August.  During  this  engagement  the 
terrible  ram,  Arkansas,  having  become  disabled,  at 
once  became  the  objective  point  of  the  shells  from  the 
gunboats.  The  condensed  cotton  with  which  she  was 
packed  caught  fire  and,  after  all  her  upper  works 
were  destroyed,  she  blew  up  with  a  terrible  explosion. 

The  naval  attack  upon  Vicksburg  having  failed, 
General  Grant  decided  upon  a  siege  by  land  forces, 
which  was  commenced  on  May  nineteenth  of  the 
following  year.  He  had  approached  by  mining  and 
digging  until  his  batteries  were  within  reach  of  the  city, 
which  he  had  determined  to  capture,  since  such  capture 
would  give  him  control  of  the  railroads  and  military 
highways,  and  enable  him  to  drive  Johnson  from  the 
State  of  Mississippi. 

The  first  attack  showing  but  slight  results,  a  simul- 
taneous assault  was  ordered  on  May  twenty-second. 
The  storming  party  were  cut  down  by  a  deadly  fire, 
but  persisted,  nevertheless,  until  the  men  under  the 
command  of  General  Hugh  S.  Ewing  had  crossed  the 


MEMPHIS  TO    VICKSBURG.  373 

ditch  on  the  left  of  the  bastion,  scrambled  up  the  outer 
wall  and  planted  the  Stars  and  Stripes  near  the  top. 
Sergeant  Griffith,  of  the  Twenty-second  Iowa,  with 
eleven  privates,  succeeded  in  effecting  an  entrance  to 
the  bastion  on  the  left,  but  all  except  the  sergeant 
paid  for  their  daring  with  their  lives.  The  assault  was 
kept  up  with  vigor  all  day,  during  which  three  thou- 
sand of  the  besiegers  fell. 

Within  the  city  the  scene  was  terrible.  The  noise 
of  the  constant  cannonading  was  deafening,  and  the 
shells  fell  like  hail.  The  panic-stricken  inhabitants, 
men,  women  and  children,  rushed  madly  through  the 
streets  and  sought  in  vain  for  a  place  of  shelter. 

Vicksburg  was  now  surrounded.  The  raining  was 
going  steadily  on.  The  river  was  sentinelled  by  gun- 
boats above  and  below,  while  a  three-gun  battery  oil 
the  peninsula  opposite  sent  a  continuous  fire  of  shell 
upon  the  garrison,  burning  up  its  shot  and  shell 
foundry.  The  Confederate  forts  were  mined,  and 
countermines  were  made  by  the  besieged ;  and  the 
sound  of  the  picks  of  the  hostile  armies  was  heard 
through  the  partitions  of  earth  which  separated  them. 
Food  became  scarce  within  the  city,  and  at  the  end 
of  six  weeks  the  ammunition  gave  out  and  a  flag  of 
truce  was  sent  out  with  a  request  for  an  armistice  in 
order  to  arrange  terms  of  capitulation.  Grant,  as 
usual,  insisted  upon  "  unconditional  surrender,"  and 
to  that  the  Confederates  finally  consented,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  Fourth  of  July,  1863,  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  went  up  over  the  captured  works.  Twenty- 
seven  thousand  troops  were  paraded,  supplied  with 
three  days'  rations,  and  escorted  out  of  town  and  across 
the  Big  Black  on  their  way  to  Jackson,  the  officers 


374  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

taking  with  them  their  regimental  clolhing,  and  the 
staff,  field  and  cavalry  officers,  a  horse  each. 

The  capture  of  Vicksburg  was  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  and  important  achievements  of  the  war,  yield- 
ing, as  it  did,  the  Mississippi  wholly  into  the  hands  of 
the  Federal  army.  It  was  accomplished  by  the  same* 
military  skill  and  indomitable  will  which  first  distin- 
guished themselves  at  Fort  Donelson,  and  never  failed 
until  the  fall  of  Richmond  sent  a  shout  of  joy  through- 
out the  North.  Grant  was  placed  at  the  head  of  the 
Northern  army,  and  from  that  day  the  Rebellion  was 
doomed. 

Vicksburg  is  now  a  city  of  about  fourteen  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  is  the  chief  commercial  mart  of  that 
section  of  the  Mississippi.  It  has  rallied  from  the 
vicissitudes  which  it  suffered  during  the  war,  and  is 
now  a  prosperous,  as  well  as  a  beautiful  city. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

VICKSBURG    TO   NATCHEZ. 

(ZDue  §untofo  uitfr  Saonfc  JDan. 


PLANTATION  HOUSE, 

Warrenton,    Mississippi, 

October  31,  1881. 

>ICKSBURG  has  many  attractions  for  the 
tourist  owing  to  its  picturesque  position 
\w/(£2£  and  history,  and  it  was  with  some  re- 
j'rW^^I  luctance  that  we  returned  to  our  canoe 
late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  thirty-first. 
As  we  paddled  out  from  the  shore  with 
thoughts  of  soon  reaching  the  end  of  our  jour- 
ney, the  Natchez  came  steaming  in  and  diverted 
us  for  the  moment  to  considerations  for  our  safety. 
She  is  one  of  the  finest  boats  plying  on  the  Mississippi, 
and  when  plowing  the  water  at  a  high  rate  of  speed  is 
an  object  of  genuine  admiration. 

Our  trip  from  Vicksburg  to  Warrenton,  a  distance 
of  only  eight  miles,  was  uneventful,  nothing  of  special 
interest  being  noted  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  save 
here  and  there  a  cotton  plantation  with  signs  of  cheer- 
ful and  productive  industry.  A  few  minutes  after  our 
arrival  at  Warrenton,  a  small  village  of  one  or  two 
hundred  souls,  we  were  pleasantly  domiciled  at  the 
comfortable  residence  of  D.  G.  Goodrum,  a  leading 

(377) 


378  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

cotton  planter  of  the  neighborhood  and  proprietor  of  a 
general  store.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  of  our  being 
Northerners,  the  Goodrums  were  most  genial  and 
hearty  in  their  conversation  and  attentive  to  our  wants. 
The  fall  elections  were  approaching  at  this  time,  and  a 
desire  that  I  had  long  felt,  to  listen  to  a  political  dis- 
cussion in  the  South,  was  gratified  during  our  stay 
here.  We  went  to  the  place  appointed  for  the  meeting 
and  found  the  representatives  of  three  parties  filling 
the  hall,  all  eager  for  the  fray.  "While  republicans 
and  black  republicans,  white  democrats  and  black 
democrats,  white  fusionists  and  black  fusionists, 
stepped  upon  the  platform  in  turn  and  indicated,  in 
impressive  language,  the  party  and  principles  of  their 
choice.  An  old  colored  man,  one  of  the  blackest  in 
the  assembly,  was  called  to  the  chair,  which  he  filled 
with  comparative  dignity  and  impartiality.  Having 
heard  and  read  much  of  the  party  wrangles  of  politi- 
cal opponents  in  Mississippi,  I  not  unnaturally  antici- 
pated a  somewhat  exciting  time.  Imagine,  therefore, 
my  surprise  to  witness  the  "house  called  to  order" 
by  the  chair,  and  the  issues  of  the  campaign  quietly 
and  intelligently  discussed,  without  any  resort  to  high 
words,  knives  or  revolvers — a  condition  of  things  with 
which  I  fear  Mississippians  have  too  often  been  credited 
by  party  writers  and  politicians  possessed  of  more  zeal 
than  honesty. 

The  bitter  feeling  against  the  negroes  that  prevailed 
shortly  after  the  close  of  the  war  which  resulted  in 
their  emancipation,  was  no  doubt  largely  due  to  the 
prejudices  engendered  by  slavery  and  the  political 
complications  consequent  upon  their  being  suddenly 
placed  on  an  equal  footing  with  their  former  masters  in 


VICKSBURG  TO  NATCHEZ.  379 

the  exercise  of  their  rights  as  freemen.  The  sanguin- 
ary race-encounters  at  the  polls  in  the  South,  reported 
in  the  Northern  papers  since  18G5,  not  unfreqtiently 
with  much  exaggeration,  are  things  of  the  past — let  us 
hope  never  to  be  revived  ;  and,  as  the  years  roll  by  and 
the  rising  generation  of  blacks,  with  their  minds  free 
from  the  shackles  of  ignorance  as  their  bodies  are  from 
slavery,  that  the  color-line  will  cease  to  be  an  obstacle 
to  political  and  other  preferment,  and  white  and  black 
live  together  and  work  for  their  common  good  in  har- 
mony and  peace. 

©ne  fiuitefo  anb  Qtyirft  £Dat). 

BONDURANT  LANDING, 

Saint  Joseph,  Louisiana, 
November  First. 

Before  resuming  our  voyage  on  the  following  morn- 
ing we  were  allowed  to  inspect  a  cotton-gin,  through 
the  courtesy  of  Hon.  J.  \V.  Goodrum,  brother  of  our 
host  at  Warrenton.  We  had  noticed  several  of  these 
gins  on  plantations  after  passing  Vicksburg,  but  this  was 
the  first  we  had  seen  in  operation,  and  we  were  much 
interested  by  the  apparently  complicated  though  really 
simple  process  of  manipulating  the  useful  vegetable 
product  before  its  transmission  to  the  manufacturer 
to  be  converted  into  material  for  clothing. 

At  Point  Pleasant  we  halted  for  lunch  and  made  the 
acquaintance  of  Albert  Bland.  After  our  meal,  taken 
at  his  commodious  store,  I  had  a  conversation  with 
him  in  relation  to  the  political  condition  of  Louis- 
iana. His  views  were  based  on  intelligent  inves- 
tigation and  appeared  thoroughly  sincere,  and  al- 
though presented  from  a  Southern  standpoint,  were 
by  no  means  partisan  or  illiberal.  I  left  him  with  a 


380  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

most  favorable  impression  on  my  mind  of  the  growth 
of  a  sentiment  which  bade  fair  soon  to  unite  all  sections 
of  our  common  country  in  the  bonds  of  fraternal  citizen- 
ship. 

Grand  Gulf,  a  small  village  standing  on  a  high 
bluif,  and  one  of  the  mouths  of  Big  Black  River,  were 
reached  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  Big 
Black  takes  its  rise  in  Chocktaw  County,  and  after  a 
course  of  two  hundred  miles,  enters  the  Mississippi 
through  two  mouths,  one  of  which  is  in  Warren 
County,  and  the  other  in  Claiborne  County  at  Grand 
Gulf.  Here  we  disembarked  a  few  minutes  after  sun- 
set, at  the  point  where  General  Grant  landed  during 
the  operations  against  Bruinberg  in  1863.  I  was 
kindly  received  as  a  guest  at  the  Bondurant  Planta- 
tion and  honored  by  being  assigned  to  the  room  for- 
merly occupied  by  the  great  general. 

Our  run  for  the  day  was  sixty-four  miles  between 
nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  six  in  the  evening, 
one  of  the  best  heats  in  our  long  race  to  the  sea,  and 
a  showing  to  which  even  a  veteran  canoeist  might 
possibly  refer  with  some  pride.  It  is  due,  however,  to 
my  companion,  Paine,  that  I  should  candidly  con- 
fess that  the  credit  belonged  chiefly  to  his  vigorous 
arms,  as  he  used  the  double  paddle  in  the  bow  of  the 
canoe. 

(Ditf  §unkeb  an&  JFcmrtf)  !Dap. 

PLANTATION  HOUSE, 

Bosedale  Landing,  Louisiana, 

November  Second. 

Breakfasted  rather  late  at  the  Bondurant  Planta- 
tion, at  which  our  worthy  host  surprised  us  with  a 
bountiful  mess  of  fresh  perch,  caught  by  negroes  in  a 


VICKSBURG  TO  NATCHEZ.  381 

bayou  on  the  estate.  Mr.  Bondurant  entertained  us 
so  agreeably  and  hospitably  that  we  were  startled  to 
find  it  nine  o'clock  while  boarding  the  Alice.  He 
pushed  us  out  from  the  landing,  while  a  gathering  of 
white  and  colored  people  on  the  banks  waved  their  caps 
and  cheered  us  God-speed.  On  nearing  General  Zachary 
Taylor's  old  plantation,  a  heavy  and  protracted  rain- 
storm forced  us  to  pull  ashore.  Here  we  were  re- 
galed with  a  generous  lunch,  and  listened  to  stories  of 
"Old  Zach.,"  related  with  enthusiasm  by  colored 
admirers  of  the  hero;  and  while  the  storm  lasts  and 
prevents  our  departure,  we  will  tell  the  reader  what 
we  know  of  the  hero  of  Buena  Vista. 

The  family  tree  of  this  American  patriot  blossomed 
long  ago  on  English  shores,  and  the  blood  of  hi.s 
forefathers  is  said  to  have  been  both  ancient  and 
blue.  The  emigration  of  the  family  to  Virginia  took 
place  in  1692,  and  the  history  of  that  State  is  inter- 
threaded  in  warp  and  woof  with  outcroppings  of  this 
distinguished  name. 

General  Taylor's  father  held  a  colonel's  commission 
in  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  manfully  helped  to 
mould  the  country  towards  its  future  greatness.  In 
1790,  the  family  moved  to  Kentucky,  when  young 
Zachary  was  less  than  a  year  old,  and  when  the  em- 
bryo State  was  little  more  than  a  battle-ground  for 
contending  tribes  of  Indians  and  the  bloody  wars  then 
raging  between  the  red  and  white  races.  Colonel 
Taylor,  the  father,  bore  so  conspicuous  a  part  in  these 
early  struggles  as  to  render  his  name  a  terror  to  the 
barbarian  foe,  and  a  tower  of  strength  to  the  settlers 
whose  banner  he  bore.  When  peace  at  last  brought 
repose  to  the  country,  he  became  one  of  Kentucky's 


382  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

leading  politicians  and  public  men.  He  helped  frame 
the  constitution  of  his  State,  represented  Jefferson 
County  and  the  city  of  Louisville  for  years  in  both 
branches  of  the  legislature,  and  voted  as  a  member  of 
the  electoral  college  for  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe 
and  Clay.  His  sons  and  daughters  were  left  a  grand 
heritage  of  fame,  staunch  character,  and  the  true  grit 
which  fights  for  principle  against  all  odds. 

The  younger  Taylor,  Zachary,  is  said  to  have  had  a 
boyhood  filled  with  adventure  and  touched  with  the 
bold  characteristics  and  heroic  traits  which  afterwards 
distinguished  his  life.  Raised  on  the  frontier,  exposed 
daily  and  nightly  to  sudden  attacks  from  the  surround- 
ing Indian  tribes,  in  danger  of  being  scalped  on  his 
way  to  school,  buffeted  by  the  rough  wind  of  adverse 
circumstances,  he  attained  a  character  of  strength 
which  no  gentler  rearing  could  give.  His  opportuni- 
ties for  the  discipline  of  the  schools  were  meagre 
enough,  but  his  great  will-power  and  untiring  perse- 
verance enabled  him  to  master  an  education  where 
others  would  have  failed. 

In  1808,  when  the  embers  of  the  on-coming  war 
were  being  fanned  into  flame  and  the  capture  of  the 
United  States  Frigate  Chesapeake  by  a  British  ship  of 
war  sent  a  thrill  of  indignation  through  the  country, 
young  Taylor  made  application  to  Jefferson  for  a 
commission  in  the  army,  and,  on  the  third  of  May  in 
that  year,  was  created  first-lieutenant  in  the  Seventh 
Regiment,  United  States  Infantry.  In  1812,  he  was 
promoted  to  a  captaincy,  and  having  been  placed  in 
command  of  Fort  Harrison,  on  the  Wabash,  about 
fifty  miles  above  Vincennes,  Indiana,  he  successfully 
repelled  an  attack  of  savages  greatly  outnumbering  his 


V1CKSBURG  TO  NATCHEZ.  383 

own  little  band,  and  by  his  skilful  strategy  and  her- 
oism, covered  his  youthful  name  with  glory.  It  was 
within  an  hour  of  midnight  when  the  Fort  was  fired 
and  the  attack  commenced.  Surrounded  by  a  yelling 
horde  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  Indians,  this  boy-cap- 
tain calmly  gave  his  orders  amid  the  rushing  of  the 
flames  and  the  cries  of  women  and  children  inside,  who 
had  sought  the  protection  of  the  Fort.  By  heroic  ef- 
forts the  flames  were  extinguished,  temporary  breast- 
works were  erected  and  such  astorrn  of  shot  poured  in- 
to the  enemy's  ranks  that  by  morning  they  were  over- 
powered, and  Captain  Taylor  and  his  men  were  left 
victors  of  the  field.  The  country  resounded  with  the 
praises  of  this  officer  of  only  twenty-two  years,  and  the 
brave  defence  won  for  him  the  brevet  rank  of  major. 

During  the  years  intervening  between  1815  and 
1832,  Major  Taylor  was  stationed  at  various  frontier 
posts  in  the  West  and  rendered  efficient  service.  He 
had  been  promoted  to  the  rank  of  lieutenant-colonel, 
and  in  the  last-named  year  was  appointed  commander 
of  the  regular  troops  in  the  Black  Hawk  War.  At  the 
close  of  this  war  he  received  the  appointment  of  colo- 
nel of  the  First  Regiment,  Infantry,  then  doing  duty 
on  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Here  he  acted  as  Indian 
agent  for  several  years,  and  acquired  great  influence 
over  his  dusky  brethren,  being  known  among  them  as 
the  "Big  Chief."  In  1836,  having  been  ordered  to 
Florida,  the  brilliant  and  bloody  battle  of  Okee-cho- 
bee  was  fought,  in  which  Colonel  Taylor  so  distin- 
guished himself  as  to  receive  the  brevet  rank  of  briga- 
dier-general. He  was  assigned  command  of  the 
operations  in  Florida,  and  continued  there  until  1840, 
making  four  years  of  difficult  service  in  that  particu- 
lar field. 


334  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

During  this  Florida  war,  General  Taylor  was  cen- 
sured for  employing  bloodhounds  to  ascertain  the 
hiding-places  of  the  wily  foe;  but  the  censure  was  ill- 
considered,  since  he  himself  said,  in  a  letter  on  the 
subject,  that  his  object  in  employing  dogs  was  to  "  as- 
certain where  the  Indians  were,  not  to  injure  them." 

The  admission  of  Texas  into  the  Union,  in  1845, 
having  virtually  brought  on  the  Mexican  War,  Gen- 
eral Taylor  became  at  once  one  of  the  most  prominent 
actors  in  that  great  military  drama. 

He  was  recalled  by  the  Secretary  of  War,  Mr. 
Marcy,  from  Louisiana  to  the  defence  of  Texas,  and 
appointed  to  the  command  of  the  army  of  occupation 
there.  In  August,  he  took  up  his  position  at  Corpus 
Christi,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Nueces,  where  he  re- 
mained until  March,  1846,  at  which  time  he  went  to 
the  Rio  Grande,  as  far  as  Fort  Brown — or  where  Fort 
Brown  afterwards  stood — a  distance  of  one  hundred 
and  nineteen  miles. 

Ampudia  remonstrated  against  the  blockade  of  the 
Rio  Grande  in  vain,  and  thus  matters  progressed  until 
the  war  was  fairly  inaugurated.  General  Arista  had 
succeeded  Ampudia  in  the  command  of  the  Mexican 
forces  and  on  one  or  two  minor  occasions — when  small 
detachments  of  Americans  had  been  surrounded  and 
captured  by  overwhelming  numbers — he  issued  the 
most  astonishing  congratulatory  orders,  proclaiming 
the  success  of  their  arms.  But  this  inflated  bubble  of 
bombast  was  doomed  to  be  pricked. 

Taylor  advanced  to  Point  Isabel  and  soon  afterwards 
the  bloody  battle  of  Palo  Alto  was  fought.  For  two 
hours  the  havoc  raged  with  unceasing  fury,  and  regi- 
ments of  Mexican  lancers  and  cavalry  were  mowed 


VICKSBURG   TO  NATCHEZ.  387 

clown  like  grass  before  the  heavy  fire  of  our  artillery. 
The  long  prairie  grass  of  Palo  Alto,  which  reached 
nearly  to  the  muzzle  of  the  guns,  was  set  on  fire  by  the 
continuous  sheet  of  flame  issuing  from  our  cannon, 
and  enveloped  the  contending  armies  in  a  cloud  of 
smoke.  At  the  end  of  two  hours  a  new  battle  line 
was  formed  under  cover  of  the  smoke  and  the  conflict 
was  renewed  with  increased  vigor.  For  three  hours 
longer  the  fighting  continued.  Again  and  again  the 
Mexican  line  advanced  to  the  onset  with  a  brave 
front  and  were  as  many  times  hurled  back  in  defeat. 
Arista  endeavored  to  turn  our  flank  and  get  possession 
of  the  stores  in  our  rear,  but  his  efforts  were  parried 
by  more  skilful  resistance,  and  at  last,  as  night  set  in, 
the  enemy  were  driven  in  disorder  from  the  field,  and 
the  Americans  held  a  clear  title  of  victory  to  the 
grounds  of  Palo  Alto.  At  this  battle  two  thousand 
men  under  General  Taylor  confronted  and  defeated 
six  thousand  Mexicans.  The  enemy's  loss  in  killed, 
wounded  and  missing  was  estimated  at  one  thousand. 
The  memorable  day  was  that  of  May  eighth,  1846. 

General  Taylor  is  said  to  have  exhibited  an  utter 
disregard  of  danger  when  in  battle,  always  inspiring 
his  men  by  his  presence  where  the  balls  flew  thickest 
and  death  seemed  most  imminent.  At  Palo  Alto,  he 
rode  up  to  the  Fifth  Infantry  on  the  American  right 
as  the  Mexican  Lancers  charged  down  upon  them,  and 
addressed  them  in  these  words  :  "  Men,  I  place  myself 
in  your  square!  "  How  much  this  act  influenced  the 
gallant  repulse  of  the  charge,  who  can  tell  ? 

The  brilliant  victory  of  Resaca  de  la  Palma,  in  which 
General  La  Vega  was  captured,  followed  Palo  Alto 
on  the  next  day,  and  was  almost  or  quite  as  hotly 
22 


388  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

contested  and  perhaps  quite  as  bloody.  Arista's  camp 
was  captured  with  all  its  prodigal  display  of  military 
grandeur  and  profuse  splendor  of  equipage,  and  the 
American  arm)7  partook  of  a  bountiful  supper  from  the 
contents  of  the  camp-kettles  simmering  on  the  fires,  left 
in  such  sudden  haste  when  the  panic  came  on.  The 
tricolor  of  the  Tampico  Battalion  was  also  captured 
and  is  still  preserved  among  the  nation's  trophies  of 
war.  During  the  engagement  General  Taylor  seemed 
to  be  everywhere  at  once  as  the  inspiring  and  sustain- 
ing spirit  of  the  great  action.  His  official  report  of 
the  affair  is  full  of  a  clear  sagacity  as  well  as  great 
modesty  and  reveals  the  character  of  the  man. 

The  two  victories  of  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca  de  la 
Pal  ma  were  all  the  more  praiseworthy  from  the  fact 
that  the  American  army  on  these  occasions  contended 
against  a  force  four  times  its  number,  and  nothing 
but  superior  skill  atid  generalship,  added  to  well-disci- 
plined troops,  could  have  braved  the  repeated  and 
furious  onsets  of  the  Mexicans.  General  Ampudia, 
second  in  command  to  Aristn,  barely  escaped  drown- 
ing while  crossing  the  Rio  Grande  in  the  disorderly 
retreat  which  followed  the  battle.  He  rushed  into  the 
Plaza  of  Metamoras — the  first  man  who  entered  the 
city  with  the  news — exclaiming,  "All  is  lost!" 

On  that  night  of  terrible  repulse  to  the  enemy, 
between  four  and  five  thousand  panic-stricken  and 
lawless  soldiers,  were  wandering  about  the  streets  of 
Metamoras,  abandoned  to  the  despair  of  the  hour. 
Ampudia  denounced  Arista,  and  the  women  of  the  city 
tore  down  the  festoons  from  the  ball-rooms  where  they 
had  prepared  a  festival  in  honor  of  the  expected  vic- 
tory— and  then  threw  aside  and  trampled  upon  their 


VICKSBURG  TO  NATCHEZ.  389 

gay  apparel.  Citizens  fled  to  the  country,  only  per- 
haps to  fall  by  the  way  into  the  hands  of  pillagers  and 
murderers  or  scattered  bodies  of  unorganized  troops. 
Neither  social  nor  civil  nor  military  order  had  any 
place  in  this  carnival  of  riot  and  confusion. 

On  the  eleventh,  there  was  an  exchange  of  prisoners, 
among  whom  on  our  side  were  Captains  Thornton  and 
Hardee  and  Lieutenant  Lane. 

The  Mexican  army  was  no\v  in  full  retreat  and  our 
successes  were  followed  up  by  crossing  the  Rio  Grande, 
taking  possession  of  Metamoras  and  giving  to  the  in- 
habitants of  that  city  the  security  and  protection  which 
their  own  troops  were  unable  to  furnish.  Here  Gen- 
eral Taylor  was  obliged  to  wait  for  reinforcements 
and  wagons  for  a  period  of  about  three  months  before 
he  could  advance  to  the  attack  of  Monterey.  The 
Mexicans,  meantime,  had  become  strongly  intrenched 
behind  the  natural  and  artificial  fortifications  of  that 
walled  city  with  an  opposing  force  of  ten  thousand 
nien,  under  command  of  Ampudia.  The  rugged  heights 
of  Monterey  were  supposed  to  be  impregnable.  For 
ten  years  it  had  been  held  by  a  handful  of  native 
troops,  defying  the  Spanish  power.  To  attempt  its 
reduction  would  be  to  rush  into  the  very  jaws  of  death 
— for  their  guns  commanded  the  entire  approach.  Yet 
against  this  famous  stronghold  General  Taylor  con- 
fidently advanced  with  a  force  of  but  six  thousand  men. 
After  a  march  of  twelve  days  he  came  in  sight  of  the 
beautiful  city  enthroned  among  its  mountains. 

Thick  stone  walls  environed  it.  Ditches  and  redoubts 
and  bastions  and  a  river  in  its  rear,  protected  it.  But 
the  attack  was  skilfully  undertaken,  the  city  was 
stormed  and  in  a  few  days  the  vaunted  fortress  of  the 


390  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

Aztecs — the  strongest  save  Vera  Cruz  in  all  Mexico — 
was  in  our  hands.  The  generalship  of  Taylor  on  this 
occasion  has  been  lauded  everywhere,  and  well  does 
his  memory  deserve  the  highest  tribute  paid  to  military 
genius. 

Meantime  Santa  Anna  had  returned  from  exile  at 
Havana,  and  gathering  around  him  a  force  of  twenty- 
two  thousand  men,  set  out  from  San  Louis  Potosi  to 
drive  back  the  Americans.  This  army  Taylor  met  on 
the  field  of  Buena  Vista — eight  miles  from  Saltillo — 
with  a  volunteer  soldiery — Scott  having  drawn  off 
most  of  the  regulars  for  other  points.  Our  troops 
were  formed  in  line  of  battle  in  a  mountain-pass  under 
the  towering  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  two  thousand 
feet  high.  They  occupied  a  lower  spur  of  the  range 
and  advancing  up  the  mountain  side,  their  continuous 
firing  after  the  battle  had  begun,  wrapped  the  ascent 
in  a  sheet  of  smoky  flame.  The  contest  raged  furiously 
along  the  whole  line,  and  thrice  during  the  ten  hours 
of  terrible  conflict  did  the  balance  of  victory  seem  to 
hang  by  a  single  thread — the  immense  numbers  of  the 
Mexicans  almost  insuring  our  defeat. 

But  the  victory  was  at  last  ours  though  won  at  a  fear- 
ful cost  of  life.  How  could  it  be  otherwise  when  five 
thousand  Americans  were  pitted  against  an  enemy 
twenty  thousand  strong?  "Throughout  the  action 
General  Taylor  was  where  the  shot  fell  hottest  and 
thickest,  two  of  which  pierced  his  clothes." 

When  a  canister  shot  tore  through  the  breast  of  his 
coat  he  remarked  coolly  that  "  those  balls  are  grow- 
ing excited." 

At  one  time  during  the  fray  he  watched  the  fighting 
of  some  Kentucky  regiments — his  own  State  troops — • 


VICKSBURG  TO  NATCHEZ.  391 

supposing  them  to  be  faltering;  then,  learning  his 
mistake  and  seeing  them  advance  in  solid  phalanx,  he 
couldn't  help  shouting,  "  Hurrah  for  old  Kentuck !  " 
while  tears  of  joy  ran  down  his  cheeks. 

"  And  thus  on  Buena  Vista's  heights,  a  long  day's  work  was  done, 
And  thus  our  brave  old  general  another  battle  won ; 
And  still  our  glorious  banner  waves  unstained  by  flight  or  shame, 
And  the  Mexicans  among  their  hills  still  tremble  at  our  name. 
So  honor  unto  those  that  stood  !  Disgrace  to  those  that  fled  ! 
And  everlasting  honor  to  the  brave  and  gallant  dead !" 

The  military  exploits  of  General  Taylor  were  in- 
deed glorious,  but  these  could  not  outshine  his  tender- 
heartedness, his  humanity  and  his  noble  qualities  as  a 
man.  The  fall  of  Hardin  and  McKee  and  Lincoln 
and  young  Clay,  besides  many  others  of  his  personal 
friends,  affected  him  deeply,  and  drew  forth  heartfelt 
words  of  sympathy  to  the  grief-stricken  families. 

After  the  battles  of  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca  de  la 
Palma,  Taylor  received  the  appointment  of  major- 
general,  which  was  confirmed  by  Congress,  and  he  was 
constituted  commauder-in-chief  of  all  the  forces  in 
Mexico — a  position  which  he  held  until  Scott  was  or- 
dered to  that  country  in  1846. 

One  of  Taylor's  personal  peculiarities  was  an  aver- 
sion to  uniforms  or  full  dress  of  any  description  ;  and 
in  summer  he  delighted  in  cotton  pantaloons,  straw  hat 
and  linen  roundabout.  In  character  he  was  every 
inch  the  general.  No  emergency,  however  great, 
overthrew  him.  If  dangers  arose,  he  confronted  them  ; 
if  difficulties,  he  became  their  master.  Superior  in 
judgment,  superior  in  tactical  skill  and  strategy, 
prompt  and  decisive  in  action,  he  has  conquered  a 
name  and  fame  in  the  four  desperate  battles  of  the 


392  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Mexican  War,  which  lias  won  for  him  laurels  of  death- 
less renown. 

€htf  tijuntittb  anfo  Jtftl)  Dag. 

FOSTER  HOUSE, 

Natchez,  Mississippi, 

Novembei'  Third. 

The  Alice,  having  been  carried  up  to  the  plantation 
house  at  Rosedale  the  previous  evening,  was  borne 
back  to  the  river  this  morning  on  the  shoulders  of 
three  burly  negroes,  who  seemed  very  proud  of  the 
opportunity  of  rendering  a  service  to  the  Northern 
strangers. 

We  found  the  aspect  of  the  country  very  much 
changed  as  we  approached  Natchez.  Large  and  well- 
tilled  plantations  protected  by  levees  now  skirted  the 
river-banks,  while  occasional  forests  of  dense  green, 
heavily  draped  with  Spanish  moss,  threw  dark  shad- 
ows on  our  watery  path. 

Soon  after  landing  at  Natchez  we  had  the  pleasure 
of  attending  a  political  meeting  at  which  the  Hon. 
L.  Q.  C.  Lamar  was  the  principal  speaker,  and 
were  very  much  impressed  by  the  liberal  sentiments 
to  which  he  gave  expression.  The  senator  spoke 
in  advocacy  of  General  Lowry,  the  democratic  candi- 
date for  governor.  Among  other  things,  my  memory 
recalls  the  following  :  "  As  they  had  accepted  the  situa- 
tion at  the  close  of  the  war  they  should  act  in  good 
faith  and  endeavor  to  adapt  themselves  to  the  circum- 
stances in  which  they  were  now  placed  and  which  fol- 
lowed the  arbitrament  to  which  they  had  succumbed. 
Northern  men  and  Northern  capitalists  should  be  en- 
couraged to  come  South  and  made  welcome  to  join 


SPORT  AMONG   THE  BAYOUS. 


VICKSBURG   TO  NATCHEZ.  395 

them  in  the  development  of  their  industries  and  com- 
mercial enterprises.  It  was  their  duty  to  do  all  in 
their  power  to  promote  the  growth  of  good  feeling  be- 
tween the  sections  and  show  the  people  of  the  North 
that  they  were  now  not  less  loyal  to  the  old  flag  than, 
those  who  had  carried  it  through  the  war."  The  re- 
mainder of  the  speech  was  in  the  same  liberal  and  en- 
lightened strain.  After  the  meeting  at  the  Court 
House,  I  saw  Senator  Lamar  in  the  parlor  of  the 
Foster  House  and  conversed  with  him  on  the  subject 
of  the  contest  in  which  he  was  engaged.  I  also  ex- 
plained to  him  the  nature  and  extent  of  my  voyage, 
in  which  he  appeared  much  interested. 

Few  towns  or  cities  of  the  Mississippi  are  so  rich  in 
historical  interest  as  Natchez,  situated  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  river,  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  north 
of  New  Orleans.  The  city  is  divided  into  two  sec- 
tions, known  as  Natchez-on-the-hill  and  Natchez-un- 
der-the-hill.  The  latter  is  built  on  a  narrow  strip  of 
land  between  the  bluff  and  the  river,  and  includes  the 
landings  and  principal  business  houses.  It  possesses 
neither  architectural  nor  scenic  beauty.  It  was 
formerly  the  resort  of  gamblers,  river  thieves  and 
other  desperate  characters.  Jim  Bludsoe,  the  hero  of 
one  of  Hays'  poems,  we  are  told,  had 

"  One  wife  at  Natchez-under-the-hill, 
And  another  one  here  in  Pike." 

Broad  and  well-shaded  roads  connect  it  with  Nat- 
chez-on-the-hill, which  is  beautifully  located  on  a  cliff 
nearly  two  hundred  feet  high  overlooking  the  river. 
The  latter  has  abundance  of  shade  trees,  and  many 
handsome  residences  and  other  buildings.  The  houses 


396  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

are  principally  of  brick,  and  surrounded  by  ample  and 
attractive  gardens. 

Along  the  whole  front  of  the  city,  on  the  brow 
of  the  cliff,  is  a  park  from  which  fine  views  can  be  ob- 
tained up  and  down  the  river.  Adjoining  this  park  is 
a  National  Cemetery,  laid  out  and  decorated  in  a  taste- 
ful manner.  The  Court  House  is  in  a  puhlic  square, 
shaded  with  trees,  and  the  Masonic  Temple  is  a  hand- 
some building.  The  Catholic  Cathedral  has  a  spire 
one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  high,  and  there  are 
other  churches  worthy  of  notice. 

Natchez  is  the  shipping-port  of  a  large  and  fertile 
cotton  region,  and  holds  commercial  intercourse  with 
the  whole  Mississippi  Valley.  Its  population  in  1860 
was  13,553.  But  the  blockade  of  the  Mississippi  and 
the  general  prostration  of  business  in  the  South  dur- 
ing the  Rebellion  affected  the  city  disastrously,  so  that 
even  at  the  conclusion  of  the  war  it  did  not  at  once  re- 
cover, and  in  1870  its  population  had  decreased  to 
about  10,000.  Since  that  time  it  has  been  gradually 
regaining  lost  ground,  and  is  now  on  the  road  to  pros- 
perity. 

The  early  history  of  Natchez  is  full  of  incident  in- 
terwoven with  romance.  Before  the  white  man  set 
foot  on  the  shores  of  the  American  continent  it  was 
the  home  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  from  which  it  takes  its 
name.  The  Natchez  Indians  were  a  superior  race,  and 
may  have  been  descendants  of  the  Mound  Builders, 
since  their  religion  was  that  of  fire-worship,  which  was 
evidently  that  of  the  prehistoric  inhabitants  of  Amer- 
ica. Their  ceremonies  were  not  unlike  those  of  the 
fire- worshippers  of  Persia.  Fire  was  kept  perpetually 
burning  upon  the  altar  of  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  and 


VICKSBUSG  TO  NATCHEZ.  397 

this  fire  they  believed  originally  descended  to  them 
from  heaven.  A  short  time  before  the  appearance  of 
the  white  man  this  fire  accidentally  went  out,  and 
great  were  their  mourning  and  dismay,  as  they  be- 
lieved the  accident  foreboded  some  great  misfortune  to 
their  tribe.  Filled  with  the  remembrance  of  this  evil 
omen,  they  made  but  a  feeble  struggle  against  the  en- 
croachments of  the  French,  and  were  easily  dislodged 
from  the  territory.  In  extreme  cases  they  offered  hu- 
man sacrifices  to  appease  the  wrath  of  their  deity. 

In  1700,  D'Iberville,  whose  exploits  in  America 
were  not  confined  to  Louisiana,  but  began  in  the 
provinces  of  New  York  and  Newfoundland,  pro- 
ceeded up  the  Mississippi  in  order  to  explore  the 
country  and  form  friendly  alliances  with  the  native 
tribes.  He  visited  the  Natchez  country,  and  decided 
it  was  the  most  favorable  for  the  establishment  of  a 
colony,  and  on  the  bluff  where  Natchez  now  stands,  he 
located  the  site  of  the  future  capital  and  built  a  fort. 
The  exact  location  of  this  fort  is  now  a  matter  of  dis- 
pute. Some  contend  that  it  was  at  the  back  of  the 
present  town,  and  others  that  Ellis  Bluffs  marks  the 
spot.  While  D'Iberville  was  there,  one  of  the  tem- 
ples was  struck  by  lightning  and  set  on  fire.  The  In- 
dians were  frightened,  believing  it  to  be  a  manifestation 
of  anger  by  their  deity,  and  the  high  priest  besought 
the  squaws  to  throw  their  little  ones  into  the  fire,  m 
order  to  appease  him.  Four  infants  were  thus  sacrificed 
before  D'Iberville  could  prevail  upon  them  to  desist. 

The  Great  Sun,  king  of  the  Natchez  tribe,  was  very 
friendly,  and  gave  the  French  permission  not  only  to 
build  a  fort,  but  to  establish  a  trading-post.  The  lat- 
ter, however,  was  not  immediately  done. 


398  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

Sixteen  years  later  no  permanent  settlement  had 
been  effected  at  Natchez.  A  feeling  of  unfriendliness 
had  been  engendered  between  the  Indians  and  whites, 
and  several  of  the  latter  had  been  murdered.  And 
now  romance  unites  with  matter-of-fact  in  the  history 
of  the  city.  The  daughter  of  Cardillac,  then  royal 
governor  of  Louisiana,  fell  in  love  with  Bienville,  who, 
though  a  young  man,  was  in  a  certain  sense  the  rival 
of  her  father.  Cardillac  was  at  first  infuriated  that 
one  of  her  birth  and  rank  should  bestow  her  affections 
upon  a  mere  adventurer,  and  a  Canadian.  He  remon- 
strated with  his  daughter,  but  she  grew  so  pale  and 
thin  that  at  last  he  was  frightened  into  acquiescence 
with  her  wishes.  Inviting  Bienville  to  an  audience, 
he  offered  him  the  olive  branch  of  reconciliation,  and 
the  hand  of  his  daughter  as  the  guarantee  of  his  good 
will.  Bienville  received  the  communication  respect- 
fully, but  declined  the  honor  intended  him.  In  re- 
taliation for  the  slight,  Cardillac  at  once  ordered  him 
to  the  Natchez  country  to  build  a  fort  and  punish  the 
murderers  of  the  Canadians,  who  had  lost  their  lives 
at  the  hands  of  the  Indians.  "What!"  exclaimed 
Bienville,  "do  you  really  intend  to  send  me  with 
thirty-four  men  to  encounter  a  hostile  tribe  numbering 
eight  hundred  warriors?"  But  Cardillac  was  obdu- 
rate, and  Bienville  and  his  little  force  set  out  on  their 
mad  expedition. 

In  April,  1716,  Bienville  and  his  small  company 
encamped  on  an  island  a  little  more  than  fifty  miles 
distant  from  the  Natchez,  and  sent  to  them  word  that 
he  was  going  to  establish  a  fort  and  trading-post 
among  them.  After  a  little  demur,  and  the  exchange 
of  several  communications,  the  Indian  chiefs,  deceived 


VICKSBURG  TO  NATCHEZ.  399 

by  the  apparent  friendliness,  and  believing  the  murder 
of  the  Canadians  still  unknown,  visited  Bienville  on 
the  island.  They  were  immediately  made  prisoners, 
and  finally,  after  exacting  and  receiving  the  heads  of 
the  murderers,  two  of  them  were  put  to  death. 

The  Indians,  thus  intimidated,  concluded  a  treaty 
of  peace,  and  on  the  arrival  of  Bienville  at  Natchez, 
assisted  in  cutting  the  ditches,  raising  the  parapets  and 
bastions  of  the  new  fort,  and  in  constructing  the  build- 
ings to  be  occupied  by  the  French.  This  fort  was 
called  Rosalie,  and  the  ruins  of  it  are  still  visible. 
The  ground  which  it  occupies  is,  however,  gradually 
sinking,  being  undermined  by  subterranean  springs, 
and  soon  it  will  have  entirely  disappeared.  The 
depth  of  the  artificial  earthworks,  subsequently  added, 
is  plainly  discernible,  in  the  distinctly-marked  strata 
of  earth. 

Bienville  returned  in  triumph  to  New  Orleans,  to 
resume  the  government  of  that  colony  in  the  absence 
of  De  1'  Epenay,  who  had  been  appointed  to  succeed 
Cardillac.  The  latter,  on  his  way  up  the  river,  search- 
ing for  gold  and  silver,  stopped  at  Natchez,  and  was 
cordially  received  by  the  chiefs,  who  presented  to  him 
their  calumet  in  token  of  peace.  Scorning  their  of- 
fers of  friendship,  he  treated  them  contemptuously, 
and  as  a  result  difficulties  broke  out  afresh  between 
the  French  and  Indians,  and  Cardillac  was  summarily 
recalled  by  Crozat. 

In  1729,  the  Indians  massacred  all  the  settlers  of  the 
Natchez  country,  including  the  colonies  on  the  Saint 
Catherine,  on  the  Yazoo,  the  Washita  and  near  the 
present  town  of  Monroe.  More  than  two  hundred 
men  were  killed,  and  ninety-two  women  and  one  him- 


400  DOWN  THE  GREAT  KIVER. 

dred  and  fifty-five  children  taken  prisoners.  A  war 
was  the  result,  in  which  the  Natchez  were  dispersed, 
and  practically  annihilated  as  a  tribe.  A  few  years 
ago  a  small  remnant  of  this  tribe  still  existed  in  Texas, 
its  members  exceedingly  proud  of  their  lineage. 

The  subsequent  vicissitudes  of  the  settlement  were 
only  such  as  were  endured  by  all  frontier  towns.  As 
the  country  became  populated,  Natchez  became  pros- 
perous, and  up  to  the  period  of  the  war  was  one  of  the 
most  thriving  cities  of  the  Lower  Mississippi.  As  the 
resources  of  the  South  are  developed,  and  its  produc- 
tive capacity  increased,  Natchez  will  share  its  pros- 
perity, and  become  an  index  of  its  material  advance- 
ment. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


NATCHEZ  TO  BATON  ROUGE. 

)ne  djuufirtb   ant)  Sail)   JDag. 

NEGRO  CABIN, 

Near  Fairview,  Louisiana, 

November  4,  1881. 

E  had  fully  intended  to  leave  Natchez  at 
an  early  hour  in  the  morning;  but  I 
was  drawn  into  a  conversation  concern- 
ing the  late  war,  on  learning  that  a 
brother  of  the  Misses  Foster  was  killed  in 
an  action  with  Kilpatrick's  cavalry.  Sup- 
posing that  I  would  be  likely  to  know  some 
particulars  of  their  brother's  death,  they  plied 
me  with  many  inquiries  which  ultimately  led  to  a  gen- 
eral discussion  of  our  cavalry  movements  in  Virginia. 
It  was  nearly  ten  o'clock  when  we  pushed  out 
from  Natchez,  but  aided  by  an  unusually  strong 
current  we  covered  our  average  distance  for  the 
day. 

Being  ignorant  of  the  country  in  our  advance,  we 
made  a  miscalculation  as  to  the  evening  destination 
and  experienced  some  difficulty  in  effecting  a  landing 
late  at  night,  which  ended  in  our  being  compelled  to 
seek  quarters  at  a  negro  cabin  or  accept  the  alternative 
of  remaining  on  the  river,  perhaps  until  daylight.  We 

(403) 


404  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

were  not  easily  reconciled  to  our  accommodation  on 
this  occasion,  but  had  become  so  thoroughly  accus- 
tomed to  roughing  it  that  we  at  length  adjusted  our- 
selves to  circumstances,  and  "slept  on  our  arms,"  as 
soldiers  would  express  it,  on  the  floor  of  the  cabin, 
with  a  few  old  rags  scattered  over  the  boards,  and  our 
blankets  for  covering.  It  should,  however,  be  stated 
to  the  credit  of  our  colored  host,  that  he  provided  the 
best  at  his  disposal,  and  with  a  generosity  that  com- 
manded our  admiration. 

We  found  very  little  rest  in  the  cabin  of  Benjamin 
Franklin  Williams,  owing  to  the  progress  of  a  re- 
ligious revival  in  the  vicinity.  Mrs.  Williams  went 
to  class-meeting  after  supper,  and  did  not  return  until 
between  two  and  three  o'clock  in  the  morning ;  then, 
upon  her  return,  her  husband  joined  her  in  a  review 
of  their  work  in  the  cause  of  the  Gospel,  and,  to- 
gether, they  spent  in  this  way  the  remainder  of  the 
night.  I  may  add  that  I  have  learned  from  some  ex- 
perience among  colored  people,  that  when  they  are 
once  enlisted  in  religious  work,  their  zeal  is  unbounded, 
and  they  are  ceaseless  in  their  endeavors  to  convert 
others. 

(Ditf  Quirtircit  aub  £>n)cntl)  Elcrg. 

PRIVATE  RESIDENCE, 

Bayou  Tunica,  Louisiana, 

November  Fifth. 

In  anticipation  of  very  shortly  making  the  mouth 
of  the  Red  River,  the  last  tributary  of  the  Mississippi, 
we  breakfasted  at  six  o'clock,  and  a  few  minutes 
later  pushed  the  Alice  into  her  element,  and  were 
soon  out  of  sight  of  our  friends  at  Fairview.  In  less 
than  an  hour  we  were  off  the  mouth  of  the  Red 


NATCHEZ  TO  BATON  ROUGE. 

River,  and  soon  after  met  the  steamer  Henry  Frank, 
engaged  in  the  cotton  trade  between  Natchez  and 
New  Orleans. 

lied  River  rises  in  Texas,  and  flows  east  and  then 
south,  dividing  Texas  from  Indian  Territory  and  Ar- 
kansas. It  then  passes  into  Louisiana,  flowing  south- 
east until  it  falls  into  the  Mississippi.  Its  length  is 
about  twelve  hundred  miles.  Small  steamers  ascend 
it  as  far  as  Shreveport,  Louisiana,  three  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  "  Raft,"  an  im- 
mense collection  of  trees  and  drift-wood,  about  fifteen 
miles  long,  had  long  obstructed  the  navigation  ;  but  in 
1873,  a  navigable  channel  was  opened  through  its  en- 
tire length.  Red  River  receives  its  name  from  its  pe- 
culiar color,  supposed  to  be  derived  from  the  red  clay 
through  which  its  upper  course  lies.  In  Louisiana  it 
sends  off  numerous  bayous,  which  find  their  way  back 
again  to  the  main  stream,  forming  frequent  lakes. 

Arrived  at  Tunica  Landing,  we  were  very  cordially 
received  by  Mr.  John  J.  Winn  and  family.  Mr. 
Winn  is  an  enterprising  merchant  and  cotton  planter, 
and  we  found  him  an  exceedingly  affable  and  courteous 
host. 


BAYOU  TUNICA, 

Tunica  Landing,  Louisiana, 
November  Sixth. 

The  weather  being  rainy,  with  strong  southerly 
wind,  Mr.  Winn  easily  persuaded  us  to  remain  an- 
other day  at  Tunica.  Had  the  weather  been  more  fa- 
vorable we  should  either  have  continued  our  voyage, 
or  accepted  Mr.  "Winn's  pressing  invitation  to  join  him 
in  an  alligator  hunt  —  the  chief  sport  of  this  section 


4QG  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

of  Louisiana.  Our  host  informed  us  that  he  had  shot 
as  many  as  seventeen  of  these  creatures  in  one  day, 
among  the  bayous  of  his  plantation. 

The  steamers  Natchez  and  Robert  E.  Lee  stopped  at 
Tunica  in  the  afternoon  on  their  way  up  the  river. 
Mr.  Winn  took  me  on  board  the  latter  and  introduced 
me  to  several  of  the  officers.  Let  me  add  that  the 
Winns  were  untiring  in  their  efforts  to  make  our  stay 
at  their  home  in  every  respect  agreeable,  and  it  is  but 
a  slight  recognition  of  their  hospitality  to  say  that 
they  succeeded  admirably. 

€htf  guitefc  cmft  iNtntl)  JDati. 

WATERLOO  HOUSE, 

Waterloo,    Louisiana, 

November  Seventh. 

It  was  with  a  feeling  of  regret  that  we  parted  with 
the  Winns  and  paddled  away  from  Tunica  at  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Winn,  their 
clerks  and  the  colored  people  of  the  hamlet  were  pres- 
ent at  the  launch. 

The  weather  was  still  unsettled,  while  a  high  wind 
from  the  southward  greatly  retarded  our  progress. 
Seeing  no  plantation-houses  or  villages,  between 
twelve  and  one  o'clock  we  disembarked,  and  refreshed 
ourselves  with  coffee,  corn-bread  and  bacon  at  a  negro 
cabin  about  three  miles  above  Bayou  Sara,  a  flourish- 
ing village,  which  we  passed  at  three  o'clock.  Twelve 
miles  below  Bayou  Sara  we  passed  Port  Hudson, 
noted  for  important  military  events  during  the  Civil 
War;  and,  late  in  the  afternoon,  met  the  United 
States  mail  steamer,  Morning  Star,  the  officers  and 
crew  of  which  honored  us  with  a  salute.  Waterloo,  a 


NATCHEZ  TO  BATON  ROUGE.  407 

village  of  five  hundred  souls,  was  reached  a  few  min- 
utes after  sundown,  the  dilapidated  appearance  of 
which  led  us  to  the  reflection  that  a  "great  battle" 
had  possibly  been  fought  in  its  immediate  vicinity. 

(Dttt  iljunbrrir  cmfc  <&ntl)  JDog. 

ELIZA  PLANTATION, 

Near  Plaquemine,  Louisiana, 

November  Eighth. 

Our  run  of  November  eighth  led  us  through  one  of 
the  richest  sugar-producing  sections  of  the  State. 
Dotted  here  and  there  along  the  river's  banks  are  the 
picturesque  homes  of  the  planters,  made  more  attrac- 
tive by  the  tropical  vegetation,  the  clustering  vines, 
blooming  roses  and  bright  green  turf,  than  they  could 
ever  be  from  mere  architectural  beauty,  while  their 
continuous  course  along  the  shore  gives  the  idea  of  an 
extended  and  prosperous  village.  We  were  welcomed 
to  the  Eliza  Plantation,  by  its  proprietors,  Messrs.  V. 
U.  Lefebre  &  Son,  who  are  counted  among  the  wealthi- 
est sugar  planters  of  Plaquemine  Parish,  owning  and 
controlling  three  large  plantations. 

This  was  our  first  experience  on  a  sugar  plantation, 
and  I  made  the  most  of  my  opportunity.  We  were 
shown  the  cane-field  and  sugar-mill,  and  every  detail 
was  explained,  from  the  cutting  of  the  cane  to  the  re- 
fining process,  which  leaves  this  useful  product  in  con- 
dition for  the  market. 

The  sugar-cane  varies  in  height  from  six  to  fifteen 
feet  and  upwards,  and  in  diameter  from  one  and  a  half 
to  two  inches.  Its  stalk  is  knotty.  The  roots  are 
slender,  about  a  foot  iu  length,  and  furnished  with  a 
few  short  fibres.  There  are  twelve  or  fifteen  leaves  at 
23 


408  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

the  top  arranged  like  a  fan.  The  sugar-cane  requires 
a  nutritious  soil  and  a  tropical  or  sub-tropical  climate. 
It  is  propagated  by  slips,  and  requires  from  twelve  to 
sixteen  months  to  arrive  at  maturity.  The  leaves  fall 
off  before  flowering,  and  the  stem  then  becomes  of  a 
straw  color.  After  the  cane  harvest  the  roots  strike 
again  and  produce  a  fresh  crop,  but  in  about  six  years 
they  must  be  removed.  The  canes  are  cut  in  dry 
weather.  They  should  ha-ve  a  smooth  skin,  consider- 
able weight,  grayish  pith  and  a  sweet  glutinous  juice. 
The  lowest  joint  contains  the  richest  juice.  The  canes 
are  tied  up  in  bundles  and  sent  to  the  crushing-mill. 
The  cane-mill  usually  consists  of  three  massive  cast- 
iron  rollers,  about  six  inches  in  diameter.  The  juice 
passes  into  a  channel  below,  and  thence  to  a  reservoir. 
From  twelve  to  fourteen  tons  of  good  ripe  cane  pro- 
duce about  fifteen  hundred  gallons  of  juice,  which  are 
required  for  making  one  hogshead  of  sugar. 

The  juice  of  the  cane  is  simply  a  solution  of  sugar 
in  water.  It  is  usually  of  a  yellow  color,  but  is  some- 
times colorless.  It  has  an  agreeable  but  rather  insipid 
taste.  The  exposure  of  the  juice  to  the  air,  even  for 
half  an  hour,  would  cause  fermentation  to  set  in ;  lime 
is  therefore  immediately  added  for  the  purpose  of 
neutralizing  the  acid.  The  process  of  refining  is  of 
too  technical  a  nature  to  be  popularly  explained  in  a 
work  of  this  character. 

On  the  opposite,  or  eastern  side  of  the  river,  stands 
Baton  Rouge,  one  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  above 
New  Orleans,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  Louisiana. 
It  was  one  of  the  first  French  settlements  on  the 
Lower  Mississippi,  and  had  been  previously  the  seat 
of  an  old  Indian  village.  The  city  is  built  on  a  bluff 


NATCHEZ    TO  BATON  ROUGE.  4Q9 

twenty  feet  above  the  highest  inundations,  and  is  well 
and  substantially  erected.  Plantations  of  sugar-cane, 
groves  of  tropical  fruit  trees  and  handsome  villas  with 
gardens,  border  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  the 
villas  being,  in  some  cases,  of  elegant  architectural 
proportions.  A  National  arsenal  and  barracks,  a 
military  hospital,  the  State  Penitentiary  and  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum,  are  located  here,  and  the  Louisiana 
State  University  was  temporarily  removed  to  this  city 
after  its  edifice  was  burned  in  1869.  In  the  Civil 
War  the  city  was  occupied  by  the  Federal  troops  after 
the  capture  of  New  Orleans.  On  August  fifth,  1862, 
General  Williams  was  attacked  at  Baton  Rouge  by  the 
Confederates,  under  General  Breckenridge.  The 
Union  general  was  killed,  but  the  assailants,  after  a 
fierce  contest,  were  repulsed.  The  city  is  advanta- 
geously situated  for  navigation  and  commerce,  and  has 
at  present  a  population  of  about  ten  or  twelve  thou- 
sand. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS. 


<S)ne  ^ttnbreb  an&  (gkoentl)  !Day. 

K.  E.  LEE 

Donaldsonville,  Louisiana, 
November  9,  1881. 

;HERE  was  so  much  of  interest  to  be  seen 
on  the  Lefebre  plantations  that  it  was 
nearly  eleven  o'clock  when  we  again 
turned  our  faces  towards  the  river. 
Donaldsonville  was  not  reached  until  long 
after  dark,  and  having  been  incorrectly  in- 
formed as  to  the  best  point  for  landing,  we  found 
much  difficulty  in  getting  ashore.  This  is  a  small 
place  of  less  than  five  thousand  inhabitants,  severity- 
five  miles  above  New  Orleans.  It  has  received 
but  little  recognition  in  the  general  history  of  the 
country,  but  is,  nevertheless,  a  growing  city  and  worthy 
of  more  attention  than  it  appears  to  have  hitherto  at- 
tracted. 

During  the  Civil  War  Donaldsonville  fell  into  the 
possession  of  the  Federals,  who  erected  a  small  earth" 
work  with  a  garrison  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  men 
of  the  Twenty-eighth  Maine,  under  the  command  of 
Major  D.  Mullen.  At  1.30  A.  M.  of  June  twenty- 
eighth,  1862,  the  Confederates  attacked  the  work,  but 
(410> 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS.  41  J 

in  the  darkness  there  was  a  good  deal  of  confusion  in 
their  movements.  They  were  defeated  by  the  com- 
bined action  of  the  little  garrison  and  three  gunboats 
in  the  river,  the  affair  lasting  until  daylight;  with 
a  result  of  sixty-nine  Confederate  dead  and  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  prisoners. 

<S)ra  iljtmforrii  cmb 


NEGRO  CABIN, 

Saint  John  Parish,  Louisiana, 

November  Tenth. 

Started  from  Donaldsonville  in  a  rain  storm,  which 
continued  until  late  in  the  evening.  I  was  fre- 
quently and  forcibly  reminded  of  our  up-river  ex- 
periences between  Saint  Paul  and  La  Crosse,  where 
we  were  thoroughly  drenched  daily  for  more  than 
a  week. 

Nothing  of  special  interest  was  noted  in  this  day's 
log.  The  rain  continuing  to  descend  in  torrents  ren- 
dered the  journey  anything  but  pleasant,  and  the  view 
of  the  banks  was  partially  obscured  by  dark,  over- 
hanging clouds  that  portended  an  uninterrupted  down- 
pour and  a  soaking  to  the  skin.  Rice  and  sugar-plan- 
tations were  just  observable  through  the  mist,  at  inter- 
vals of  three  or  four  miles  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
and  it  may  be  stated  that  these  were  the  first  cultivated 
rice-fields  we  had  witnessed. 

Wishing  to  cover  as  much  ground  as  possible,  we 
remained  in  our  canoe  until  eight  o'clock  in  the  even- 
ing and  then,  on  pulling  ashore,  sought  shelter  from 
the  rain  under  the  first  roof  we  came  to,  which  proved 
to  be  another  negro  cabin. 

I  cannot  say  too  much  in  praise  of  the  genuine  hos- 


412  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

pitality  of  the  negroes  we  came  in  contact  with  in  the 
South.  Always  ready  and  eager  to  do  their  utmost  to 
please  us,  they  were  unselfish  to  a  degree.  It  was  but 
poor  accommodation  they  could  offer,  and  they  were 
fully  conscious  of  this  ;  but,  poor  as  it  was,  the  demon- 
strations of  cordial  welcome  with  which  it  was  ten- 
dered made  us  feel  thankful  to  have  found  such  friends. 


PEIVATE  KESIDENCE, 

Garrollton,  Louisiana, 

November  Eleventh. 

The  storm  which  followed  us  to  our  quarters  on  the 
night  of  the  tenth  greeted  us  again  in  the  morning, 
and  again  continued  with  us  through  the  day.  Rice- 
fields,  sugar-plantations  and  an  occasional  orange-grove 
were  seen  from  the  canoe.  The  high  banks,  which  had 
hitherto  greatly  obstructed  our  view  of  scenery  ad- 
jacent to  the  river,  had  now  entirely  disappeared.  In 
fact,  the  river  seemed  higher  as  we  descended,  and  its 
surface  was  nearly,  if  not  quite,  on  a  level  with  the 
land. 

Anxious  to  reach  New  Orleans  before  dark,  we  re- 
freshed ourselves  with  a  cold  lunch  at  midday  as  we 
floated  along  with  the  current,  past  Saint  Charles,  a 
small  town  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river. 

We  found  it  impossible  to  reach  New  Orleans  at  a 
seasonable  hour  in  consequence  of  the  strong  wind 
from  the  south  which  impeded  our  progress  from  the 
time  of  re-embarking  in  the  morning  until  we  stepped 
ashore  at  night.  The  great  depth  of  the  river,  too, 
was  an  obstacle  to  rapid  progress,  as  a  heavy  sea  is 
always  sure  to  result  from  high  winds  and  deep  water. 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS.  413 

The  idea  of  reaching  New  Orleans  before  dark  was 
abandoned  late  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  discovered 
that  we  could  only  hope  to  make  Carrollton  by  a  most 
vigorous  use  of  our  paddles.  The  night  of  Novem- 
ber eleventh  was  one  of  unusual  darkness,  and  when 
the  river  front  of  Carrollton  was  reached,  where  we 
found  a  swift  current  and  an  indifferent  landing,  our 
canoe  came  very  near  being  capsized,  as  a  friendly 
citizen  caught  the  bow  and  pulled  us  up  the  bank. 

Carrollton,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  in  Jeffer- 
son Parish,  and  adjoins  New  Orleans.  It  contains  the 
Court  House  and  public  buildings  of  the  parish,  and 
is  connected  with  the  centre  of  New  Orleans  by  street- 
cars which  start  every  three  minutes.  The  public 
gardens  of  Carrollton  attract  many  visitors  from  the 
Crescent  City  and  the  country  immediately  adjacent. 
The  town  supports  a  weekly  society  paper. 

Since  passing  Saint  Louis  we  had  looked  forward  to 
the  great  Southern  seaport  as  the  chief  object  of  attrac- 
tion on  the  Lower  Mississippi.  Its  early  history, 
rapid  development  and  present  commercial  importance 
combine  to  place  it  among  the  foremost  cities  of  the 
continent.  It  was  now  in  full  view  and  the  goal  of 
our  voyage  not  far  distant. 

Before  proceeding,  however,  to  our  final  destination 
in  the  Gulf,  I  must  pause  to  give  the  reader  some  ac- 
count of  this  great  and  flourishing  city  of  New  Or- 
leans. It  is  on  the  left  side  of  the  river — with  the 
exception  of  the  annexed  town  of  Algiers,  which  is  on 
the  right  bank — and  is  about  one  hundred  and  twelve 
miles  above  its  mouth,  nine  hundred  and  fifty-three 
miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  eleven  hun- 
dred and  forty-nine  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri, 


414  DOWN  THE  GREAT  EIVER. 

It  embraces  nearly  the  whole  of  Orleans  Parish,  with 
parts  of  Jefferson  and  Plaquemine,  reaching  on  the 
north  and  east  to  Lakes  Pouchartrain  and  Borgne.  It 
derives  its  name  of  "The  Crescent  City"  from  the 
circumstance  that  the  older  portion  of  it  is  built  within 
a  great  bend  of  the  river.  In  the  progress  of  its 
growth  up  stream  it  has  now  so  extended  itself  as  to 
follow  long  curves  in  opposite  directions,  so  that  the 
river  front  on  the  left  bank  presents  an  outline  some- 
what resembling  the  letter  S. 

The  city  is  built  on  an  inclined  plane  descending 
gently  from  the  river  toward  the  swamp  in  the  rear, 
so  that  when  the  Mississippi  is  full,  the  streets  are 
three  or  four  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  river.  To 
prevent  inundations  an  embankment,  called  the  Levee, 
has  been  raised  at  great  expense.  This  Levee  is  fifteen 
feet  wide  and  fourteen  feet  high,  and  is  constructed  for 
a  great  distance  along  the  river  bank.  The  view  of 
the  city  from  the  river  is  beautiful,  and,  on  entering  it, 
I  found  it  difficult  to  realize  that  I  had  arrived  at  an 
American  city.  The  buildings,  the  manners,  customs 
and  language  of  the  people  are  so  different ;  the  popu- 
lation being  very  nearly  equally  made  up  of  Ameri- 
cans, French,  Creoles  and  Spaniards,  with  a  mixture 
of  almost  every  nation  of  the  globe. 

New  Orleans  bears  not  only  the  evidence  of  its 
American  and  nineteenth  century  civilization,  but  it 
also  still  retains  traces  of  its  French  and  Spanish 
dominion,  and  of  the  old  world  civilization  which 
those  nations  have  left  behind  them.  For  nearly  a 
century  New  Orleans,  though  located  on  the  American 
continent,  was  European  in  its  appearance  and  sympa- 
thies. In  1712  Crozat  was  granted  by  Louis  XIV., 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS.  415 

the  exclusive  privilege  for  fifteen  years  of  trading  in 
the  then  unknown,  and  literally  boundless,  territory 
of  Louisiana.  At  that  period,  for  every  two  shiploads 
of  European  immigrants  a  shipload  of  negroes  was 
brought  from  Africa,  and  thus  slavery  was  planted  in 
the  colony.  Then  came  the  great  John  Law  scheme. 
A  gigantic  bubble  was  blown ;  the  Loyal  Bank  sprang 
into  existence ;  the  charter  of  the  Mississippi  Company 
was  registered  at  Paris,  and  Louisiana  was  represented 
in  Europe  as  the  long-sought  El  Dorado.  Emigrants 
flocked  to  its  shores,  only  to  be  disappointed  and  im- 
poverished. The  bubble  burst,  and  with  its  bursting 
came  the  reaction.  The  pendulum  swung  to  the  other 
extreme,  and  the  evil  report  of  the  colony  matched 
that  which  but  a  short  time  previously  had  been  said 
in  its  favor.  Louisiana  was  now  represented  as  the 
rendezvous  of  beggars,  thieves  and  murderers,  but  the 
privations  and  terrors  of  its  inhabitants  were  greatly 
magnified. 

_In  the  midst  of  this  depression,  Bienville  selected 
the  present  site  of  New  Orleans  for  a  capital  of  the 
province  over  which  he  was  governor.  The  site  was 
surveyed  in  1717,  and  the  first  settlement  made  in  the 
following  year.  But  flood,  pestilence  and  famine  came, 
so  that  it  was  not  until  1723  that  the  settlement  be- 
came permanent.  In  the  same  year  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment was  removed  from  New  Biloxi  to  the  later  settle- 
ment', which,  in  honor  of  the  Regent  of  France,  was 
called  New  Orleans. 

The  city  was  in  the  midst  of  a  swamp,  surrounded 
by  a  dense,  rugged  forest.  The  small,  cleared  space 
which  was  occupied  was  frequently  inundated  ;  and  to 
dispose  of  the  surplus  water,  which  was  always  present, 


416  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

each  street  was  bordered  by  a  ditch,  which  cut  up  the 
town  into  small  squares.  These  ditches  were  filled 
with  stagnant  water,  swamp  mud  and  refuse  matter, 
and,  under  the  burning  sun,  sent  up  offensive  and 
poisonous  odors.  Reeds  and  swamp  grasses  grew  to 
the  very  doors  of  the  residences,  and  the  toll  of  the 
vesper  bells  and  the  croaking  of  the  frogs  from  the 
neighboring  swamps  mingled  and  harmonized  in  a 
mighty  chorus. 

The  inhabitants,  some  of  them  representing  the  best 
blood  of  France,  maintained  in  this  noisome  spot  and 
in  their  rude  dwellings  the  courtly  manners  which 
they  had  brought  with  them  from  their  distant  homes. 
Stately  ladies  walked  the  miry  streets  in  pairs — for  in 
those  days  etiquette  would  permit  no  lady  to  appear  in 
public  without  a  duenna.  Monks  and  nuns  stole 
silently  along  and  were  familiar  objects  upon  the 
streets.  The  little  cross-surmounted  edifices  set  apart 
for  the  ceremonies  of  their  religion  daily  summoned 
their  worshippers,  and  no  religion  save  the  Roman 
Catholic  was  tolerated.  The  streets  were  named  after 
princes  of  the  royal  blood  :  Toulouse,  Bourbon,  Conde", 
Chatres  and  Conti.  Above  the  city,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi,  titled  and  wealthy  French  families 
had  established  themselves  and  lived  lives  of  ease  and 
pleasure. 

Occasionally  the  English  threatened  the  little 
French  colony,  but  were  compelled  to  turn  back  before 
reaching  the  city ;  for  the  French  pioneers,  though  a 
happy-go-lucky  race,  content  with  enjoying  to-day  and 
permitting  to-morrow  to  take  care  of  itself,  were  good 
soldiers,  and  very  frequently  successful  in  their  mili- 
tary operations.  They  conquered  and  dispersed  the 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS-  417 

warlike  Natchez,  the  most  superior  Indian  tribe  which 
existed  upon  this  continent  when  it  was  discovered. 
They  held  the  English  at  bay  and  proved  too  much 
for  the  Spaniards,  until,  in  1777,  the  king  of  France, 
in  a  fit  of  generosity,  bestowed  upon  his  "  cousin  of 
Spain  "  the  splendid  gift  of  Louisiana,  ceding  it "  with- 
out any  exception  or  reservation  whatever,  from  the 
pure  impulse  of  his  generous  heart;"  thus,  by  a  single 
stroke  of  the  pen,  depriving  France  of  a  province  of 
untold  and,  at  that  period,  unimagined  wealth,  for 
Louisiana  embraced  all  the  territory  from  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  and  Mexico  on  the  south,  to  the  English  pos- 
sessions on  the  north,  and  from  the  Mississippi  to  the 
Pacific. 

The  French  settlers  rebelled  against  Spanish  rule, 
but  in  the  end  had  to  submit  to  it.  Then  came  a  suc- 
cession of  Spanish  governors  and  Spanish  colonists,  who 
have  left  their  traces  in  quaint  balconied  houses  and 
little  touches  of  Moorish  architecture.  In  1789,  Don 
Andr6  Almonastre,  "Perpetual  Regidor  of  New  Or- 
leans," built  the  Cathedral  of  Saint  Louis,  which  was 
replaced  in  1850  by  the  present  structure,  as  ugly  as  it 
is  modern  in  architecture. 

Then,  in  1803,  Louisiana  became  again  French,  but 
the  rejoicings  of  the  Creole  inhabitants  had  scarcely 
begun  before  they  were  turned  into  wailings  by  the 
unexpected  sale  of  the  province  by  Napoleon  I.  to  the 
United  States.  Thus  all  the  domain  west  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi was  purchased  for  $15,000,000.  "Spanish 
they  might  become,  but  English  never!"  was  Napo- 
leon's dictum,  and  hence  the  sale.  The  inhabitants 
and  settlers  resented  the  transfer  and  resolutely  with- 
drew within  their  own  quarters,  refusing  to  become 


418  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

American  citizens  under  the  new  regime.  But  again 
they  were  helpless. 

Under  the  United  States  rule  New  Orleans  made 
such  progress  as  it  had  never  done  in  the  past.  Its 
commercial  interests  were  built  up  and  there  was  a 
large  influx  of  population.  Only  the  following  year 
it  was  incorporated  as  a  city, 'and  in  1810  its  popula- 
tion had  increased  to  more  than  seventeen  thousand. 
Forty  years  later  it  numbered  one  hundred  and  sixteen 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  in  1860  nearly  one  hundred 
and  seventy  thousand. 

Then  came  the  terrible  years  of  the  Civil  War,  when 
all  its  business  was  prostrated  and  it  was  contended  for 
by  two  opposing  armies.  In  the  second  year  of  the 
war  the  city  was  strongly  fortified.  Sixty  miles  be- 
low it,  on  the  Mississippi,  Fort  Philip,  on  the  left,  and 
Fort  Jackson,  on  the  right,  were  two  strong  citadels, 
with  a  united  armament  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
six  guns.  The  river  was  seven  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  an  iron  cable  stretched  across  it,  and,  supported 
by  rafts  and  eleven  hulks  securely  moored,  presented 
an  effectual  barrier.  A  fleet  of  thirteen  gunboats,  in- 
cluding the  iron-clad  battery  Louisiana  and  the  ram 
Manassas,  was  covered  by  the  guns  of  the  forts,  while 
water-batteries  swept  the  channel  above.  The  city  was 
held  under  General  Lovell,  while  Commander  G.  N. 
Hollis  directed  the  naval  armament. 

These  protections  of  the  city  were  considered  im- 
pregnable, and  one  of  the  newspapers  of  April  fifth, 
1862,  published  the  following:  "Our  only  fear  is  that 
the  Northern  invaders  may  not  appear.  We  have 
made  such  extensive  preparations  to  receive  them  that 
it  were  vexatious  if  their  invincible  armada  escape  the 
fate  we  have  in  store  for  it." 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS.  419 

The  mortar  fleet,  under  Commodore  Porter,  and  the 
gunboat  fleet,  under  Commodore  Farragut,  commenced 
a  bombardment  on  April  eighteenth.  The  fleet  em- 
braced forty-six  vessels,  with  three  hundred  guns  and 
mortars,  but  no  iron-clads.  The  bombardment  lasted 
six  days  and  was  heard  at  New  Orleans,  sixty  miles 
distant.  On  the  night  of  the  twentieth  boats  passed 
up  the  river  through  a  break  iu  the  raft.  The  Con- 
federate squadron  descended  to  meet  them,  but  was 
destroyed  within  two  hours.  Twelve  of  the  Federal 
boats  passed  the  forts  without  injury  and  proceeded  up 
towards  the  city. 

When  the  news  reached  New  Orleans  the  greatest 
consternation  prevailed.  Bells  were  rung  and  the 
people  crowded  the  streets  in  a  panic.  Lovell  imme- 
diately ordered  the  evacuation  of  the  city.  When  this 
order  went  forth,  the  Confederates  in  their  anger  set 
fire  to  the  rafts  and  shipping  on  the  river  and  to  private 
and  public  buildings.  The  city  was  surrendered  to 
the  Union  forces,  and  the  forts,  which  had  already 
been  silenced  by  the  fleet,  were  compelled  to  capit- 
ulate. General  Benjamin  F.  Butler's  land  force,  hav- 
ing disembarked  at  Ponchartrain,  took  possession  of 
New  Orleans. 

When  the  war  was  ended,  New  Orleans  was  found 
to  have  undergone  a  social  as  well  as  a  political  revo- 
lution. Slavery  was  no  more,  and  slaveholders  were 
bankrupt.  Wealthy  families  had  lost  their  all.  Ladies 
who  had  enjoyed  large  incomes  before  the  war  now 
found  themselves  forced  to  open  boarding-houses  or 
engage  in  menial  occupations  in  order  to  support  them- 
selves and  their  families.  Young"  women  daintily 
brought  up,  and  who  had  every  want  supplied  by 


420  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

others,  were  compelled  to  seek  some  kind  of  employ- 
ment for  their  daily  bread.  Those  who  had  been  so 
fortunate  as  to  preserve  their  property,  converted  it 
into  money  and  took  it  away  with  them  to  Europe. 
Only  those  remained  who  had  no  money  with  which 
to  go. 

Such  was  the  dark  outlook,  but  prospects  presently 
began  to  brighten.  Business  interests  looked  up. 
Fresh  blood  and  fresh  capital  found -their  way  into 
avenues  of  trade  and  New  Orleans  is  more  prosperous 
to-day  than  it  was  at  any  time  in  the  past,  and 
ranks  in  its  exports  and  foreign  commerce  next  to 
New  York. 

New  Orleans  to-day  presents  a  strange  compound 
of  the  past  and  present.  Canal  street  separates  the 
French  quarter  from  the  modern  American  city.  This 
street,  which  is  the  main  business  thoroughfare  and 
promenade,  once  had  a  canal  running  through  it  con- 
necting the  Mississippi  with  Lake  Ponchartrain.  But 
since  other  canals  have  been  opened  this  has  been  filled 
up  and  replaced  by  a  grass-plot  twenty  feet  in  width, 
bordered  on  each  side  by  double  rows  of  trees.  The 
street  is  nearly  two  hundred  feet  wide  and  is  lined  by 
fine  stores  and  handsome  private  residences. 

On  the  lower  side  of  Canal  street  is  found  the 
French  quarter,  which  represents  the  original  city. 
This  was  built  around  a  curve  of  the  river.  It  is  now 
extended  along  the  river  bank  both  above  and  below 
this  curve.  In  the  French  quarter  are  many  houses 
dating  back  to  the  eighteenth  century,  some  of  them, 
with  their  overhanging  balconies  or  airy  niches  and 
fantastic  Moorish  lattices,  speaking  of  the  time  of  the 
Spanish  dominion.  Many  of  these  old-time  houses 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS.  421 

have  no  beauty  save  that  of  age.  They  are  of  solid 
masonry,  with  great  arched  porticos  and  small  win- 
dows ;  their  pavements  worn  into  unevenness  by  the 
footsteps  of  many  generations.  The  old  Ursuline  con- 
vent in  Conde"  street  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of 
these  structures.  It  was  erected  in  1787,  during  the 
reign  of  Carlos  III.,  by  Don  Andr6  Almonaster.  It 
is  huge  and  ugly  in  form,  with  queer  gable  windows, 
but  quaint  and  venerable  in  appearance.  When  the 
site  which  it  occupies  became  valuable,  the  nuns  sold 
the  building  and  removed  to  other  quarters,  where 
they  have  built  themselves  a  large  edifice,  modern  and 
stylish  in  appearance,  and  doubtless  far  more  conven- 
ient and  comfortable,  but  not  half  so  interesting  as  their 
early  home.  The  old  convent  building  is  now  occu- 
pied by  the  Catholic  bishop  and  is  known  as  the 
Bishop's  palace.  It  is  elbowed  on  every  side  by 
modern  structures,  which  present  a  strange  contrast  to 
its  Old  World  appearance. 

Jackson  Square  is  situated  in  the  French  quarter, 
facing  the  river,  and  bounded  on  the  three  remaining 
sides  by  Saint  Peter,  Saint  Ann  and  Chartres  streets. 
Though  it  bears  a  modern  name,  its  origin  dates  back 
to  the  earliest  days  of  the  infant  colony.  It  was 
formerly  known  as  the  Place  d'  Armes,  and  was  the 
military  parade-ground  and  place  of  public  gatherings 
during  the  French  and  Spanish  periods  of  the  history 
of  New  Orleans.  It  is  now  ornamented  by  trees  and 
shrubbery,  and  contains  Mill's  equestrian  statue  of 
General  Jackson.  The  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  Saint 
Louis,  and  the  Courts  of  Law,  face  the  river  from  the 
opposite  side  of  the  square. 

The  old  Creole  families  of  New  Orleans  keep  them- 


422  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

selves  to  a  great  degree  distinct  from  the  American 
population.  In  their  quarter  the  French  language, 
spoken  in  a  variety  of  dialects,  from  the  pure,  liquid 
accents  of  the  higher  classes  down  to  the  childish  patois 
of  the  negroes,  is  almost  universally  used.  At  the 
French  market,  on  the  Levee,  near  Jackson  Square, 
may  be  seen  the  greatest  variety  of  peoples,  and 
be  heard  the  greatest  jargon  of  tongues.  On  Sunday 
morning  the  scene  is  especially  interesting,  as  the 
crowd  on  that  day  is  greatest. 

The  Levee  is  also  one  of  the  characteristic  features 
of  New  Orleans.  Here  is  conducted  the  immense  com- 
mercial business  of  the  city,  and  in  front  of  it  is 
moored  the  shipping  of  all  nations.  New  Orleans  is 
the  greatest  cotton  mart  of  the  world,  and  also  exports 
large  quantities  of  sugar,  rice,  tobacco  and  other  prod- 
ucts. The  Levee  is  the  scene  of  constant  activity  and 
bustle.  Sailors,  river-men,  merchants,  shipping-clerks, 
foreigners  of  all  nationalities,  travelers,  priests,  monks 
and  nuns  are  constantly  passing  and  repassing,  forming 
a  panorama  which  for  variety  and  life  has  probably 
not  its  equal  on  this  continent. 

The  Shell  Road  out  to  Lake  Ponchartrain  is  the 
favorite  drive.  After  leaving  the  city,  it  passes  through 
cypress  swamps  which,  though  gloomy,  are  exceedingly 
picturesque,  the  trees  being  fringed  with  long,  gray 
Spanish  moss.  Lake  Ponchartrain  is  itself  a  beautiful 
body  of  water,  forty  miles  long  by  twenty-five  wide, 
and  abounds  in  fish  and  its  borders  in  game.  On  its 
banks  are  the  country  residences  of  the  wealthy  in- 
habitants of  the  city. 

The  battle-field  where,  on  January  eighth,  1815, 
General  Jackson  obtained  a  victory  over  the  British, 


BATON  ROUGE  TO  NEW  ORLEANS.  425 

lies  a  few  miles  below  the  city.  It  fronts  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  extends  inland  about  a  mile  to  the  cypress 
swamps.  An  unfinished  marble  monument,  erected  in 
commemoration  of  the  victory,  has  attained  a  height  of 
seventy  feet.  In  the  south-west  corner  of  the  field  is 
a  National  cemetery,  and  between  it  and  the  city  is 
the  new  edifice  of  the  Ursuline  convent,  a  large  build- 
ing overlooking  the  river. 

The  cemeteries  of  New  Orleans  are  most  peculiar. 
The  ground  is  so  low  that  water  is  reached  at  a  depth  of 
two  or  three  feet,  so  that  the  tombs  are  all  placed  above 
ground.  Some  of  them  are  very  handsome  structures 
of  marble,  granite  or  iron.  Others  are  mere  cells 
placed  in  tiers,  one  above  another.  These  cells  look 
like  ovens,  and  when  one  receives  a  coffin  it  is  hermeti- 
cally sealed,  and  usually  a  marble  tablet  is  placed  over 
the  brick-work.  There  are  no  less  than  thirty-three 
cemeteries  in  and  near  the  city.  Of  these,  Cypress 
Grove  and  Greenwood  are  best  worth  visiting. 

The  population  of  New  Orleans  is  composed  of 
French  Creoles  and  the  more  modern  French,  Span- 
iards, Portuguese,  Italians,  West  Indians,  Mexicans, 
colored  people  of  every  shade,  from  the  full-blooded 
negro  up  to  the  octoroon,  scarcely  distinguishable  in 
complexion  and  features  from  the  southern  European  ; 
Southerners  of  English  descent;  Northerners  and 
Westerners;  Chinese  and  Indians.  The  city  still 
maintains,  in  many  respects,  its  early  characteristics. 
Its  inhabitants  are  very  gay,  and  theatres  and  operas 
are  liberally  patronized.  Mardigras  is  the  great  an- 
nual holiday.  Though  a  comparatively  recent  insti- 
tution, having  been  first  observed  during  the  present 
century,  it  is  now  celebrated  with  a  universality  and 
24 


426  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

abandon  which  is  as  astonishing  as  it  is  delightful  to 
the  visitor.  On  that  day  King  Rex  makes  his  appear- 
ance in  the  city,  attired  in  regal  splendor,  and  is  fol- 
lowed by  a  retinue  of  knights  and  servitors.  After 
these  come  a  motley  procession  grotesquely  masked. 
The  streets  and  balconies  are  crowded  with  spectators, 
and  the  day  is  given  up  to  mirth  and  enjoyment,  con- 
cluding with  balls  and  pantomimes. 

In  1880,  the  population  of  New  Orleans  amounted 
to  two  hundred  and  sixteen  thousand.  It  is  not  archi- 
tecturally a  beautiful  city,  and,  owing  to  its  low  site, 
can  never  become  an  imposing  one.  But  from  its 
location  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  it  must 
command  the  trade  of  the  Gulf  States  and  be  the  gate- 
way through  which  the  commerce  of  the  cities  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley  passes  to  other  quarters  of  the  globe. 
The  constantly  increasing  prosperity  of  the  South,  due 
largely  to  free  labor  and  to  an  influx  of  fresh  blood, 
fresh  capital  and  fresh  enterprise,  is  telling  upon  its 
trade  and  commerce;  and  unless  something  in  the  form 
of  a  national  calamity,  such  as  war  or  pestilence,  comes 
to  check  its  prosperity,  the  progress  of  New  Orleans 
must  be  onward  to  still  larger  commerce,  broader 
social  planes,  and  higher  intellectual  advancement. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

NEW  ORLEANS  TO  THE   GULP  OF  MEXICO  —  END 
OF  VOYAGE. 


(Due  $untoe&  onb  Jbnrteenti) 

ENGLISH  TORN, 
Plaquemine  Parish,  Louisiana, 
November  12,  1881. 

>HE  rays  of  the  sun  as  he  rose  on  the 
morning  of  this  day  fell  upon  us  through 
a  slight  mist  —  the  wind  favorable  and  the 
water  smooth  —  when  we  pushed  off  from 
the  great  seapo"rt  and  turned  our  prow  in 
the  direction  of  the  Gulf.  Met  two  large 
ocean  steamers  inward  bound  —  the  first  of  these 
giants  we  had  seen  in  motion.  One  of  them 
glided  so  smoothly  through  the  water  that  she  ap- 
peared to  us,  at  first,  to  be  stationary.  Soon,  however, 
we  discovered,  by  her  wake,  that  she  was  forging 
ahead  with  her  screw-propeller  at  a  tolerably  rapid 
pace,  but  so  quietly  as  to  lead  to  the  impression  that 
she  was  at  anchor.  We  speedily  paddled  out  of  her 
way  on  finding  our  mistake,  and  the  majestic  vessel 
passed  onward  to  her  destination. 

English  Turn  was  duly  reached,  a  point  rendered 
memorable  by  the  fact  that  in  the  war  of  1812  the 
English  fleet,  bound  for  New  Orleans,  turned  back  on 

(427) 


428  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

hearing  of  the  defeat  of  their  land  force  by  General 
Jackson.  The  people  who  inhabit  this  spot  appeared 
to  be  mostly  of  French  origin  or  affinity.  They  spoke 
little  else  but  French,  and  the  patois  of  the  negroes 
was  especially  amusing  to  us  who  had  been  accustomed 
to  hear  only  English  spoken  by  our  colored  fellow- 
citizens  of  the  North. 

The  scenery  on  both  banks  of  the  river  was  pic- 
turesque and  diversified — orange  groves,  many  acres 
in  extent;  rice  fields  and  sugar  plantations  succeeding 
one  another  as  in  a  panorama,  and  rendering  our  trip 
very  pleasant.  The  weather  was  all  we  could  wish, 
and  the  reflection  that  we  were  rapidly  nearing  the 
end  of  our  voyage  imparted  an  extra  impulse  to  our 
arms  at  each  dip  of  the  paddle  as  we  drove  the  Alice 
through  the  smooth  and  comparatively  limpid  water. 

(Dm  $unkefo  anfo  Jtftotl)   IDajj. 

HOME  PLACE, 

Plaquemine  Parish,  Louisiana, 
November  Thirteenth. 

We  took  leave  of  our  French-speaking  friends  at 
English  Turn  this  morning  at  seven  o'clock,  wind  and 
weather  still  favoring  us;  and,  stepping  into  our  canoe, 
pulled  rapidly  away  from  the  crowd  of  whites  and 
negroes  who  lined  the  landing-place  to  witness  our 
departure.  Several  ocean  steamers  passed  us  during 
the  forenoon  on  their  passage  to  and  from  New  Orleans. 
The  Teutonia,  hailing  from  some  German  port,  the 
Shelburne,  from  one  of  the  Australian  colonies,  and  a 
local  steamer,  complimented  us  with  a  salute  from 
their  whistles  when  in  short  range. 

Passed  the  night  at  an  orange  grove  named  Home 


NEW  ORLEANS  TO  GULF  OF  MEXICO.         429 

Place,  which  consists,  besides  the  grove,  of  a  landing- 
stage  and  a  general  store.  At  Home  Place  we  had  no 
choice  but  to  occupy  a  sleeping-room  with  four  other 
men  and  an  equal  number  of  dogs,  the  men  being 
laborers  in  the  orange  grove.  From  this  point  large 
quantities  of  oranges  are  shipped  in  sloops  to  New  Or- 
leans, which  eventually  find  their  way  to  the  fruit- 
stands  and  stores  of  Northern  cities. 

QDw  gunfottft  an&    0brteentl)   JDcig. 

THE  JUMP, 

Plaquemine  Parish,  Louisiana, 
November  Fourteenth. 

Again  afloat,  after  an  early  breakfast  at  Home  Place 
and  a  hurried  stroll  through  the  orange  grove,  we  re- 
sumed our  journey.  Our  course  this  day  led  us  past 
some  of  the  finest  orange  groves  and  rice  fields  we  had 
yet  seen.  It  may  be  noted  that  there  is  a  somewhat 
striking  resemblance  between  the  extremes  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. The  wild  rice  savannas  of  Northern  Minne- 
sota may  be  compared  with  the  cultivated  rice-fields 
of  Louisiana.  The  Indian  at  the  head  waters  of  the 
Mississippi  relies  largely  upon  the  wild  product  for  his 
winter  sustenance,  while  his  white  brother  of  the  far 
South  finds  a  ready  market  for  the  cultivated  article. 
The  sugar  maple  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  is  replaced 
by  the  sugar-cane  of  the  Lower,  while  the  hemp  and 
flax  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin  are  paralleled  by  the  cot- 
ton of  Mississippi  and  Arkansas.  The  Jump  is  a 
small,  scattered  and  primitive  hamlet,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  possibly  twenty-five  or  thirty  souls,  whose  oc- 
cupation appeared  to  be  principally  confined  to  fish- 
ing. Their  language  is  a  mixture  of  French  and 


430  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

German,  scarcely  intelligible  to  our  Northern  ears. 
We  failed  to  discover  the  origin  or  meaning  of  the 
singular  name  of  this  river-side  cluster  of  cabins. 

((Dne  $unfcrrir  cmfo  0n*ntentl)  JDajJ. 

PORT  EADS, 

Plaquemine  Parish,  Louisiana, 
NovemberFifteenth. 

A  bright  sun  and  clear  sky  greeted  us  as  we  opened 
the  door  of  the  little  cabin  at  The  Jump  early  on 
the  morning  of  the  last  day  of  our  voyage.  A  break- 
fast of  bread  and  coffee  was  hastily  taken  and  we  were 
ready  for  the  final  strokes  which  would  bring  us  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico — the  goal  toward  which  we  had 
floated  and  paddled  for  one  hundred  and  seventeen 
days. 

Pilot  Station,  at  the  head  of  the  Passes,  was  reached 
at  ten  o'clock,  and  here  we  met  with  a  hearty  welcome 
from  the  sturdy  men  who  devote  their  lives  to  the 
hazardous  work  of  piloting  vessels  to  and  from  the 
Gulf;  a  welcome  which  only  those  who  have  enjoyed 
their  hospitality  can  adequately  appreciate.  Accus- 
tomed to  exposure  and  danger,  they  are  generous  in 
the  extreme  to  all  who  by  fortune  or  accident  fall  into 
their  hands.  No  sooner  had  we  approached  their 
landing-place  than  the  Alice,  with  her  crew,  was  pulled 
out  of  the  water  and  a  cordial  invitation  took  us  to 
their  quarters,  where  we  were  promptly  supplied  with 
coffee  and  ship  biscuit,  and  plied  with  questions  as  to 
our  up-river  experiences. 

After  lunch,  the  Alice  was  put  into  the  Mississippi 
for  the  last  time  and  our  hospitable  entertainers  gave 
three  lusty  cheers  as  we  pushed  off.  We  then  paddled 


NEW  ORLEANS  TO   GULF  OF  MEXICO.          431 

briskly  across  the  Expansion  to  the  head  of  the  South 
Pass,  the  most  direct  and  best  route  to  the  Gulf.  Port 
Eads  was  made  at  three  o'clock.  This  village  occu- 
pies a  prominent  and  bleak  position  at  the  mouth  of 
the  South  Pass  at  its  entrance  into  the  Gulf;  is  in 
Plaquemine  Parish,  and  possesses  an  immense  light- 
house. It  is  also  a  customs  and  pilot  station. 

This  volume  would  be  incomplete  without  some 
reference  to  the  celebrated  engineer  of  the  Jetties,  who 
has  made  it  possible  for  the  largest  ocean  vessels  to 
enter  in  safety  the  Great  River.  We  therefore  pause 
to  give  the  reader  a  brief  sketch  of  his  remarkably 
eventful  life. 

Captain  James  Buchanan  Eads,  a  native  of  Law- 
renceburg,  Indiana,  was  born  May  twenty-third,  1820. 
He  was  a  machinist  almost  from  his  birth.  When 
nine  years  of  age  he  removed  with  his  parents  to  Louis- 
ville, Kentucky,  and  his  first  lesson  in  steam  engi- 
neering was  learned  on  board  the  steamboat  that  con- 
veyed him  to  that  city;  the  engineer,  seeing  the  curios- 
ity of  the  boy  excited,  explained  to  him  the  principal 
parts  of  the  machinery.  At  the  age  of  ten  years  he  con- 
structed models  of  saw-mills,  fire-engines,  steamboats, 
steam-engines,  electrical  and  other  machines.  With  no 
other  tool  than  his  pocket-knife,  it  is  said,  he  could  take 
to  pieces  and  put  together  again  a  patent  lever  watch. 
At  thirteen  his  parents  went  to  Saint  Louis,  and  he 
accompanied  them.  On  the  way  there  the  steamer 
was  burned  in  the  night,  and  he  landed  nearly 
naked  on  the  very  spot  now  occupied  by  a  part  of  the 
great  bridge  which  he  afterwards  designed  and  built. 
For  a  few  months  he  supported  himself,  his  mother 
and  sister  by  selling  fruit  on  the  street.  He  then 


432  DOWN  THE   GREAT  RIVER. 

obtained  a  situation  in  a  mercantile  house  in  which  he 
remained  for  five  years.  Here  he  found  an  excellent 
library  to  which  he  was  allowed  access  by  his  generous 
employer.  He  made  good  use  of  his  opportunity  to 
study  subjects  bearing  upon  mechanics,  civil  engineering 
and  physical  science.  In  1839  we  find  him  employed 
as  clerk  on  a  Mississippi  steamer.  Here  again  he 
made  the  best  use  of  his  opportunity  to  acquire  a  com- 
plete knowledge  of  the  great  river  which  he  afterward 
turned  to  such  good  account.  In  1842  he  built  a 
diving-bell  boat  for  recovering  the  cargoes  of  sunken 
steamers.  He  soon  improved  upon  this  by  constructing 
one  of  larger  tonnage,  with  machinery  for  lifting  the 
hull  and  cargo  of  a  vessel.  A  company  was  formed  for 
operating  this  boat  on  the  river  between  theBalizeand 
Galena.  It  was  while  engaged  in  this  business  that  he 
obtained  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  river-bed. 

In  1845  he  established  a  glass  manufactory  at  Saint 
Louis.  Two  years  later  this  enterprise  failed  and  left 
him  burdened  with  debt.  He  then  returned  to  his 
former  business  of  raising  steamers,  removing  obstacles 
from  the  river,  and  improving  the  harbor  of  Saint 
Louis.  A  capital  of  fifteen  hundred  dollars  was  pro- 
vided by  his  creditors,  and  ten  years  later  he  had 
increased  this  sum  to  nearly  half  a  million,  having 
long  since  paid  off  his  creditors  in  full. 

In  1856  Captain  Eads  proposed  to  Congress  to  keep 
the  channels  of  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Ohio  and 
Arkansas  rivers  clear  of  all  obstructions  for  a  term  of 
years.  A  bill  was  passed  by  the  House  of  Represent- 
atives authorizing  the  scheme,  but  in  the  Senate  it 
failed. 

On  the  seventeenth  of  April,  1861,  three  days  after 


NEW  ORLEANS  TO  GULF  OF  MEXICO.         433 

the  attack  on  Fort  Sumter  by  the  Confederates,  Attor- 
ney-General Bates  wrote  to  him  from  Washington : 
"  Be  not  surprised  if  you  are  called  here  suddenly  by 
telegram.  It  may  be  necessary  to  have  the  aid  of  the 
most  thorough  knowledge  of  our  Western  rivers,  and 
in  that  event,  I  have  advised  that  you  should  be  con- 
sulted." The  summons  came  shortly  after  the  letter, 
and  Captain  Eads  went  immediately  to  Washington. 
He  submitted  a  plan  to  the  President  and  Cabinet  for 
placing  gunboats  on  the  rivers  and  locating  batteries  at 
several  points  on  shore.  With  Captain — afterward 
Rear-Admiral — John  Rodgers,  he  was  appointed  to 
carry  out  the  recommendations  he  had  made,  and  to 
improvise  three  war-vessels  for  service  at  Cairo.  •  He 
afterward  designed  seven  iron-clad  gunboats  for  the 
Government,  which  he  engaged  to  build  in  sixty-five 
days.  They  were  all  finished  according  to  contract 
and  ready  for  their  armament. 

In  1862  Captain  Eads  was  authorized  to  build  six 
more  armored  iron  gunboats,  larger  than  the  preceding 
ones.  The  kind  of  work  these  ironclads  performed  is 
recorded  in  the  history  of  Grant  and  Halleck's  cam- 
paigns, and  of  Farragut's  capture  of  Mobile. 

From  1867  to  1874  Captain  Eads  was  engaged  in 
the  construction  of  the  steel-arch  bridge  at  Saint  Louis. 
The  central  arch  of  this  great  work  has  a  clear  span  of 
five  hundred  and  twenty  feet  and  is  universally  pro- 
nounced to  be  the  finest  specimen  of  metal  arch  con- 
struction in  the  world.  The  side  arches  are  five  hun- 
dred and  two  feet  in  span ;  the  piers  are  sunk  clear 
through  to  the  bed  rock. 

In  his  proposal,  in  1874,  to  deepen  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi  by  means  of  Jetties,  he  was  opposed  by 


434  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

nearly  all  the  United  States  Engineers  and  by  a  com- 
mission composed  of  seven  of  them.  This  commission 
proposed  to  avoid  the  bars  by  building  a  canal  from 
Fort  Philip  to  Breton  Bay.  Captain  Eads'  plan  was 
to  make  the  river  itself  deepen  the  channel  through  the 
bars,  and  he  had  faith  enough  in  his  plan  to  offer  to  do 
the  work  at  his  own  expense  and  wait  for  payment 
until  he  had  proved  its  success.  A  bill  was  introduced 
in  Congress  to  allow  him  to  make  his  experiments  on 
the  South  Pass.  The  cost  was  to  be  five  and  a  quarter 
million  dollars;  only  half  a  million  was  to  be  paid 
after  a  channel  twenty  feet  deep  by  two  hundred  feet 
wide  had  been  secured ;  another  half  million  after  a 
channel  twenty -two  feet  deep,  and  other  sums  upon  the 
obtaining  of  channels  twenty-six  and  twenty-eight 
feet  deep.  The  final  million  was  to  be  withheld  until 
a  channel  of  thirty  feet  depth  had  been  kept  through- 
out twenty  years.  Congress,  however,  afterward  voted 
to  pay  him  one  and  three-quarter  million  dollars  in 
advance  of  the  terms  of  his  contract  when  he  had  se- 
cured twenty-two  feet  depth  in  the  channel. 

The  result  of  the  application  of  the  Jetty  system  to 
the  South  Pass  has  been  a  triumphant  justification  of 
its  author's  views.  Four  years  after  he  commenced  the 
work  the  United  States  inspecting  officer  reported  that 
thirty  feet  depth  had  been  secured  throughout  the 
channel,  and  that  the  least  width  was  two  hundred 
feet.  The  balance  due  Captain  Eads  by  the  Govern- 
ment was  then  paid  him,  and  the  million  held  as  secu- 
rity was  considered  as  earned  and  placed  at  interest  for 
his  benefit.  The  channel  has  maintained  this  depth 
ever  since. 

Before  commencing  the  Jetties,  he  had  turned  his 


NEW  ORLEANS  TO  GULF  OF  MEXICO.         435 

attention  to  the  improvement  of  eleven  hundred  miles 
of  the  Mississippi  by  the  Jetty  system.  On  March  fif- 
teenth, 1874,  he  addressed  a  letter  to  the  Hon.  William 
Windom,  chairman  of  the  Senate  Committee  on  Trans- 
portation Routes  to  the  Seaboard,  and  in  this  and  sub- 
sequent papers  clearly  outlined  one  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent plans  which  hydraulic  engineering  has  ever 
undertaken,  by  which  thirty  thousand  square  miles  of 
rich  land  could  be  saved  from  devastating  inundations. 

In  1880,  a  commission  reported  to  Congress  in  favor 
of  the  "Jetty  system"  of  Captain  Ends,  as  opposed  to 
the  "  Outlet  system  "  and  the  "  Levee  system  "  of  other 
eminent  engineers;  and  several  million  dollars  were 
voted  to  "carry  out  his  plans.  Two  reaches  of  the 
river,  Plum  Point,  twenty  miles  long,  and  Lake 
Providence,  thirty-five  miles  long,  were  selected  for 
improvements,  and  the  effect  produced  was  simply  mar- 
velous. 

During  the  time  of  the  construction  of  the  works 
for  carrying  his  plans  into  execution,  Captain  Eads 
was  in  bad  health,  and  for  some  time  absent  from  the 
United  States.  No  further  appropriations  were  made 
to  continue  this  great  work ;  but  enough  has  been  done 
to  show  the  entire  practicability  of  the  plan. 

The  grandest  scheme  contemplated  by  this  indefati- 
gable engineer  is  the  Ship  Railway  across  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec,  for  the  transportation  of  large  ships 
fully  laden  from  ocean  to  ocean.  This  railway,  he 
claims,  can  be  built  at  one-half  the  cost  of  the  Panama 
Canal  and  in  one  quarter  of  the  time  needed  to  build  the 
canal ;  that  four  or  five  times  the  speed  practicable  on  a 
canal  can  be  secured ;  that  more  vessels  can  be  carried 
in  a  day  over  the  railway  than  through  the  canal ;  that 


436  DOWN  THE  GEE  AT  RIVER. 

it  will  cost  less  to  operate  it  than  to  operate  a  canal ; 
and  that  its  location  is  the  very  best  of  all  those  which 
are  proposed  on  the  American  Isthmus.  Its  proposed 
track  is  twelve  hundred  miles  from  the  De  Lesseps 
Canal,  the  immense  territory  of  Central  America  lying 
between  the  two. 

Captain  Eads  has,  at  the  request  of  the  Government 
and  of  individuals  particularly  interested,  examined 
and  reported  upon  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  Saint 
John's  River,  Florida;  the  improvement  of  the  Sacra- 
mento River;  the  improvement  of  the  harbor  of  To- 
ronto, and  of  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz  ;  the  improvement 
of  the  harbor  of  Tampico,  and  of  Galveston,  and  the 
estuary  of  the  Mersey,  England.  He  was  president 
of  the  Saint  Louis  Academy  of  Sciences  for  two  terms. 
In  1881  he  delivered  an  address  before  the  British 
Association  at  York  upon  the  improvements  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  also  upon  the  Tehuantepec  Ship 
Canal ;  and  in  June,  1881,  he  was  awarded  the  medal 
of  the  British  Society  of  Arts,  in  token  of  its  apprecia- 
tion of  the  services  he  had  rendered  to  the  science  of 
engineering — he  being  the  first  American  upon  whom 
this  medal  had  been  conferred.* 

From  Port  Eads  the  sea-wall  of  the  Jetties  was 
plainly  visible,  and  as  we  floated  down  stream  our 
minds  were  occupied  with  thoughts  of  the  renowned 
La  Salle,  who,  nearly  two  hundred  years  ago,  was  the 
first  European  to  enter  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  plant 
the  banner  of  France  on  its  shores. 

*  Since  the  preparation  of  these  pages  the  country  has  deplored 
the  loss  by  death  of  the  illustrious  engineer  of  the  Mississippi  Jet- 
ties, which  occurred  at  Nassau,  New  Providence,  on  the  eighth  of 
March,  1887,  at  the  age  of  sixty-seven  years. 


NEW  ORLEANS  TO  GULF  OF  MEXICO. 

Count  Frontenac,  at  that  time  governor  of  Canada, 
was  very  desirous  of  continuing  the  exploration  of  the 
Mississippi  which  La  Salle  had  already  begun.  It 
was  his  ambition,  as  a  loyal  Frenchman,  to  raise  the 
ensign  of  France  at  the  mouth  of  the  Great  River,  and, 
in  the  name  of  his  king,  to  take  possession  of  the 
grandest  valley  on  the  globe. 

La  Salle  accordingly  left  Fort  Frontenac,  on  the 
Saint  Lawrence,  July  twenty-third,  1680,  on  his  way 
to  the  Mississippi  via  the  lakes.  On  the  twenty- 
eighth  of  August  following  he  launched  his  canoes  on 
Lake  Erie,  ascended  the  Detroit  River,  passed  through 
Lake  Saint  Clair  to  Lake  Huron,  and  finally  reached 
the  station  at  Mackinaw  the  latter  part  of  September. 

During  the  spring  of  1681  he  pushed  his  canoes 
through  Lake  Michigan  to  its  southern  extremity  and 
found  his  way  through  the  Chicago  and  Illinois  rivers 
to  the  Mississippi.  Continuing  his  course  to  the  south- 
ward, he  reached  the  Delta  on  the  sixth  of  April,  1682, 
and  drifting  down  the  turbid  current  between  its  low 
and  marshy  shores,  "the  brackish  water  changed  to 
brine,  and  the  breeze  grew  fresh  with  the  salt  breath 
of  the  sea.  The  broad  bosom  of  the  Gulf  then  opened 
on  his  sight,  tossing  its  restless  billows  limitless,  voice- 
less, lonely,  as  when  born  of  chaos,  without  a  sail, 
without  a  sign  of  life.  La  Salle  coasted  the  marshy 
borders  of  the  Gulf  and  then,  assembling  his  com- 
panions, on  a  spot  of  dry  ground  a  short  distance  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  he  prepared  a  column  on  which 
was  inscribed  the  arms  of  France. 

"The  Frenchmen  were  mustered  under  arms. 
Then,  amid  volleys  of  musketry  and  shouts  of  Vive  le 
Roi  !  La  Salle  planted  the  column  in  its  place,  and, 


438  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

standing  near  it,  proclaimed  iu  a  loud  voice  that,  in 
the  name  of  his  king,  he  took  possession  of  all  that 
portion  of  North  America  which  was  drained  by  the 
Mississippi  and  its  tributaries.  On  that  day  the 
monarchy  of  France  received  a  stupendous  accession. 
The  fertile  plains  of  Texas;  the  vast  basin  of  the 
Mississippi,  from  its  frozen  northern  springs  to  the 
sultry  borders  of  Louisiana;  from  the  woody  ridges 
of  the  Alleghenies  to  the  bare  peaks  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  a  region  of  savannas  and  forests,  sun- 
cracked  deserts  and  grassy  prairies,  watered  by  a 
thousand  rivers  and  ranged  by  a  thousand  warlike 
tribes." 

At  twenty  minutes  after  three  o'clock,  on  the  after- 
noon of  November  fifteenth,  1881,  the  prow  of  the 
Alice  met  the  salt  waves  of  the  Gulf  as  they  came 
rushing  defiantly  against  the'  swift  current  of  the 
mighty  stream,  and  we  were  suddenly  brought  to  a 
realization  of  the  fact  that  our  long  voyage  Down  the 
Great  River,  from  Source  to  Sea,  was  ended. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

THE   FATHER  OP  WATERS. 

•AVING    observed    many  times    in  the 
course  of  our  voyage  that  the  Missis- 
sippi is  perhaps  the  first  river  of  the 
world,  I  now  pause  at  its  mouth,  and, 
without  hesitation,  affirm  that  it  is  incontes- 
tably   entitled    to   the   proud   designation 
given  it  by  the  Chippewas,  of  May-see-see-be — 

THE  FATHER  OF  RUNNING  WATERS.      In  Order 

to  support  my  position  it  will  be  necessary  to  ask  the 
indulgence  of  the  reader,  and  invite  him  to  accompany 
me  in  my  return  to  its  source.  Should  he  feel  unduly 
taxed,  however,  and  hesitate  to  accept  my  invitation, 
let  me  explain  that  our  journey  back  to  its  head- 
waters will  be  less  arduous  and  accomplished  in  much 
less  time  than  that  we  have  just  concluded  at  the 
Balize. 

It  has  already  been  noted  that  the  Lower  Missis- 
sippi, through  its  numberless  bayous,  communicates  with 
every  quarter  of  Louisiana  and  with  the  sea.  Through 
the  Red  River  it  reaches  Arizona  and  New  Mexico. 

By  means  of  the  Yazoo  the  Mississippi  invites  the 
commerce  of  Tennessee,  and,  as  the  former  stream  is 
navigable  to  its  sources  in  Georgia,  it  may  readily 
communicate  by  canal  with  rivers  that  discharge  their 

(439) 


440  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

waters  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  sources  of  the 
Torabigbee  are  also  near  those  of  the  Yazoo,  and,  con- 
sequently, communication  is  easily  opened  with  the 
rivers  of  Alabama,  which  have  their  outlets  in  the 
Bay  of  Mobile. 

As  the  debouchure  of  the  Arkansas  River,  the  Mis- 
sissippi becomes  the  great  water-way  for  the  transpor- 
tation of  the  exports  of  Colorado,  Kansas  and  the 
State  of  Arkansas,  and  as  the  sources  of  the  former 
are  but  a  few  hundred  miles  from  those  of  the  Colo- 
rado, it  may  be  assumed  that  the  Mississippi  could 
easily  communicate  with  the  Gulf  of  California. 

The  White  and  Saint  Francis  rivers  penetrate  far 
into  the  interior  of  Arkansas  and  Missouri — a  region 
of  great  fertility,  and  rich  in  its  mines  of  lead,  copper 
and  iron. 

The  Ohio,  the  largest  eastern  tributary  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, rises  in  New  York  and  Western  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  will  prove  in  the  future,  as  it  has  in  the 
past,  a  powerful  lever  in  the  development  of  the  rich 
and  flourishing  States  whose  boundaries  are  its  shores. 
Indeed,  Illinois,  Indiana,  Ohio,  Kentucky,  Tennessee, 
Virginia  and  Western  Pennsylvania  are  largely  in- 
debted to  this  great  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  for 
their  happy  commercial  relations  with  the  Eastern 
and  Southern  States. 

To  continue  with  the  Ohio,  we  may  assume  that,  by 
means  of  the  Monongahela,  the  Mississippi  could, 
with  the  aid  of  the  canal,  communicate  with  the  Po- 
tomac, which  empties  into  Chesapeake  Bay  and  thence 
into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

The  Allegheny  River  connects  its  waters  by  canal 
with  Lake  Erie,  and  thence  through  the  Wei  land 


THE  FATHER   OF   WATERS.  441 

Canal  with  Lake  Ontario  and  the  Saint  Lawrence 
River,  thus  opening  communication  with  New  York, 
Canada  and  the  great  lakes,  Huron,  Michigan  and 
Superior. 

Through  the  Kaskaskia,  the  Mississippi  extends  its 
commerce  into  the  rich  and  populous  State  of  Illinois. 

The  Missouri,  the  largest  tributary  river  of  the 
world,  might,  through  its  remotest  feeders,  open  com- 
munication between  the  Mississippi  and  the  rivers 
Lewis  and  Clark,  which  flow  into  the  Columbia,  and 
would  ultimately  connect  it  with  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
What  a  grand  problem  is  here  presented  for  the  solu- 
tion of  the  future !  The  products  of  the  great  State 
of  Missouri;  the  fertile  prairies  of  Kansas  and  Iowa; 
the  vast  plains  of  Nebraska;  the  unlimited  wheat 
fields  of  Dakota,  and  the  gold  and  silver  mines  of 
Wyoming,  Montana  and  Idaho,  must,  in  a  large 
measure,  reach  the  leading  commercial  cities  of  Amer- 
ica through  the  Mississippi — the  grandest  water-way 
of  the  world. 

Through  the  Illinois  River,  the  Mississippi  com- 
municates, by  means  of  the  Michigan  Canal,  with  the 
Chicago  River,  which  empties  into  Lake  Michigan ; 
while  the  proposed  Hennepin  Canal  would  open  direct 
communication  with  this  great  inland  sea,  and  thus 
invite  the  commerce  of  its  sister  lakes. 

The  Des  Moines,  Rock  and  Turkey  rivers  extend 
far  into  the  interior,  and  are  navigable  many  miles 
from  their  confluence  with  the  Mississippi. 

By  means  of  the  Wisconsin  and  Chippewa  rivers, 
the  Mississippi,  aided  by  portages,  communicates 
with  the  Fox  and  Menomonee  rivers,  through  which 
it  also  reaches  lakes  Michigan  and  Superior. 


442  DOWN  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

A  few  miles  above  Lake  Pepin  the  Saint  Croix 
River  enters  the  Mississippi  and  pays  tribute  from  the 
vast  lumber  regions  of  Wisconsin. 

The  Minnesota  River,  formerly  known  as  the  Saint 
Peter,  is  the  leading  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  in 
Minnesota.  This  stream,  like  the  Saint  Croix,  brings 
down  yearly  from  the  northern  counties  countless 
millions  of  logs  from  her  seemingly  inexhaustible 
pine  forests. 

It  has  been  shown  in  a  previous  chapter  that  the 
source  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North  is  but  seven 
miles  from  the  source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Red 
River  discharges  its  waters  into  Hudson's  Bay,  which 
communicates  with  the  Arctic  Ocean.  The  Saint 
Louis,  which  falls  into  Lake  Superior,  also  takes  its 
rise  in  this  section  of  Minnesota.  The  reader  will  re- 
call that  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  can  be  reached 
by  a  canoe,  and  that,  by  a  short  portage,  it  may  be  re- 
launched on  the  Red  River,  and  thus  it  is  seen  that 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  greets  the  Arctic  Ocean  across 
the  continent  of  North  America — a  range  of  between 
four  and  five  thousand  miles. 

It  is  something  to  excite  wonder  that  a  river  of 
such  remarkable  length  should  present  no  other  ob- 
stacles to  its  navigation  than  Pokegama  Falls,  Saint 
Anthony  Falls,  Little  Falls  and  the  Keokuk  Rapids; 
last  of  which,  it  may  be  observed,  is  no  longer  an 
obstruction,  since  the  Government  Canal  now  conveys 
through  its  waters  the  largest  craft  that  finds  its  way 
to  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

No  one  will  question  that  this  King  of  Rivers 
drains  one  of  the  most  extensive,  beautiful  and  fertile 
valleys  of  the  globe ;  and  its  thousand  affluents  mingle 


THE  FATHER  OF  WATERS.  443 

their  accumulated  floods  with  the  mighty  stream  so 
quietly  as  to  scarcely  create  a  ripple. 

Through  its  numberless  lagoons  above  the  Falls  of 
Saint  Anthony,  Nature  has  provided  for  the  surplus 
water  in  time  of  freshets;  but  for  which,  the  coun- 
try adjacent  to  the  entire  lower  river  would  be 
completely  devastated  in  the  fall  and  spring.  The 
hand  of  the  Creator  is  also  seen  in  the  bayous  of 
Mississippi,  Arkansas  and  Louisiana;  and  finally  at 
the  Delta,  where  it  discharges  quietly  into  the  sea,  as 
from  a  common  centre  the  accumulated  waters  of  more 
than  half  a  continent. 

What,  then,  is  the  conclusion  ?  Can  another  such 
river  be  found  between  the  poles,  which  thus  commu- 
nicates with  every  sea;  which  combines  so  much  of 
the  wonderful  with  so  much  of  the  useful ;  which 
bears  upon  its  bosom  the  freightage  of  both  the  old 
world  and  the  new,  and  to  which  the  future  presents 
such  a  promising  outlook  ? 

The  Amazon  and  the  Nile  surpass  the  Mississippi 
in  length,  and  possibly  in  the  volume  of  their  waters. 
Still,  in  many,  yea,  all  other  particulars  of  far  greater 
consequence,  they  cannot  be  compared  with  it.  But 
apart  from,  and  altogether  beyond  a  consideration  of, 
the  length  and  width  and  depth  of  these  great  fivers 
of  the  world,  we  may  consistently  claim  for  the 
Mississippi  a  very  decided  superiority  over  its  longer* 
rivals,  inasmuch  as,  throughout  its  entire  length,  its 
banks  are  peopled  with  freemen,  and  industry  meets 
with  no  restriction. 

THE  END. 


.  .•; 


IS